eer asin NA ale Pe haste, oe hate ere el Fe PA ap nek ee ee 0 S28 ee AGS DIS tee em ened ty rh eee _ o§as. 0). 8 ae. ~Ped ae te ae nde Se +). am hl onthe eee ee TOA, 0 ae Nt, AY q sf At oun{ X9 SS9]I[NP Hf YU) ‘apirg poomaspy ‘Y.) :Stolitoay [NG “TOIT T uojsog 29Y 7 THE SOMPLETE DoG BOOK BY Dr. WILLIAM A. BRUETTE'! si Editor of Forest and Stream; author of ‘‘Modern Breaking,”’ “*The Airedale,’ ‘‘Guncraft,’’ etc. CINCINNATI STEWART KIDD COMPANY PUBLISHERS AS eA CopyriGHtT, 1921 STEWART KIDD COMPANY ¥ All Rights Reserved COPYRIGHT IN ENGLAND Scab27679 K NOV 10 1921 We “7” Foreword Tue Bench Show standards and scales of points presented in this book are those laid down by the Specialty Clubs in America and Great Britain, and are used in judging the most important shows in this and other countries. They will be found an admirable guide for the uninitiated and will enable the expert judge and fancier to refresh his mind in regard to the mandates of the fancy, whenever he may feel the necessity of so doing. Changes occur in these standards from time to time, and it is the intention of the publisher to incorporate them in successive annual editions, corrected and revised up to the latest expressions of the arious Clubs. The second part of this book has been devoted to the breeding and management of dogs in health and their care and treatment in disease. The aim here has been to present in simple language highly im- portant technical knowledge which will enable an amateur to establish a kennel of dogs and conduct it successfully. It is an interesting and profitable occupation, for there is always a demand for well- bred puppies of all breeds. WA: ‘ : i i , 2") f iy ik : h , { 1 j ? . 4 a ‘ . Lt t i ' - : 4 ¢ on oe, she ort ne Mates toe Oe, 5 Prenat; P ‘ ‘ fl ! Ly N f \ r ‘ c i u * ’ «+ 1 "] 5 \ er i ‘ ‘ r) i } { ‘ A > ii ua { oh $ x 4 « ; y 3 Pa ee j j '] Ly English Bloodhounds. Ch. Knoxcraft, Ch. Bernie, Ch. Bernie, Jr. Contents Page THE ORIGIN OF THE Doc a Ny is nt 9 Guarp Docs: The Mastiff s a : ls if me eel The St. Bernard’ - e a E x 16 The Newfoundland - - = " Pana The Great Dane - x £ ks oy 29 Coursinc Hounbs: The Scottish Deerhound = - : ST vas The Irish Wolfhound a Cs x u 37 The Russian Wolfhound ~ - - . 4 hae Mmctteyhound = (= 6 ose yo 45 Bie Whippet 9-9 = ae ee ge ScENTING HounDs: The Bloodhound a y i . Hc The Otterhound “ u! Mt ih ts 55 The Foxhound - 4 u E i RW, The Harrier - is us zs 2 i 61 Me eagle The Basset Hound - Z ~ ‘ e 66 The Dachshund - 2 4 Z e ii ne SHEPHERD Docs: The Old English Sheep Dog Sa ae URN ~The Collie, Rough-coated - : 4 vif) The Collie, Smooth-coated - r a OE 7. The German Shepherd Dog - - - 83 mee onctiand Collie = = = fie =) gg I CONTENTS Gun Docs: Page The Pointer - - - - - ee Whe fnolish Setter ])))!-" 5 ee 104 The Irish Setter - _ . - - =) ie The Gordon Setter - =) i 117 The Griffon - - - - =) ke RETRIEVERS: The Chesapeake Bay Dog - - - =- 133 The Irish Water Spaniel - - = = 126 The Flat-coated Retriever - - - = Tag The Curly-coated Retriever - ~ aie 131 The Labrador - - - : -) Ege WorKING SPANIELS: The Spaniel Family - - The English Springer - — - - . 138 The Field Spaniel - : 2 -~ 140 The Cocker Spaniel Le fa 144 The Clumber Spaniel = - - \=003ieaueem ‘The Sussex Spaniel =. == PGi The Welch Springer - - - ae WorkING TERRIERS: The Old English Broken-Haired - - - 158 The Black and Tan or Manchester - — - 1$g The Fox Terrier, Smooth - - - = 163 The Fox Terrier, Rough - : 2 “ 168 The Airedale 9 = 4) +). = The Bedlington z 2 2 : e072 The Scottish 2 LNA) rr The Skye Dad i ony ae 178 i) CONTENTS The Clydesdale - - The Dandie Dinmont The West Highland White The Irish Terrier - The Welsh Terrier : The Sealyham - The White English — - SPECIALTY Docs: The Bulldog he e The Bull Terrier and Meade The Boston o 2 The French Bulldog The Dalmatian - @ The French Poodle - The Chow - 4 5 Toy AnD Lap Docs: The King Charles Spaniel - The Prince Charles Spaniel The Blenheim Spaniel - The Ruby Spaniel - The Japanese Spaniel - The Yorkshire Terrier The Italian Greyhound The Pomeranian - The Schipperke - — - The Pekingese - The Brussels Griffon - The Toy Poodle’ - The Maltese Bach hes a CONTENTS Foreicn Docs: The Eskimo and Samoyede - The Russian Sheep Dog -_~— - The Norwegian Elkhound - The Dobermann Pinscher : The Boxer - . - - Whe Papillon .-) 0-0) = hhe Ghiltuabua yc) 20) - DisEASEs OF Docs: Biaenosis,) 90 05.) ae Care, Diet, Nursing _ “ Distemper - s s " Intestinal Parasites - . i Skin Diseases’ - 2 i Stomach and Bowels 2 Eye, Ear, and Throat - 2 Nervous Diseases’ - s Rs CARE AND MANAGEMENT: Sleeping Quarters - -~— - Bedding - L 2 Z i Feeding - L a A a Watering - 2 i 2 Washing i i i . Exercise - Z E x v Grooming - r i Fleas and Lice - iB : Tue Laws or BREEDING “ Heredity and Evolution -~ - In-breeding - 2 ‘ E 4 Page 277 279 279 280 281 282 283 284 286 288 292 297 302 308 315 319 OT a00 324 324 326 327 327 329 Jae 332 CEN TENTS Correlation 2 Atavism sf c Pre-natal Impressions Telogeny “he Whelping Table The Brood Bitch - Nursing and Weaning TRAINING - Fs Effects of Tiana Training Age - Rewards and oe e On Training Methods - House Breaking Minding the Whistle Page 333 334 335 336 337 338 34° 344 345 345 346 348 35° a5 a ae _ ya i ' List of Illustrations PPPRIERS | = A) ah See ree Encuiso MasTiFF - - - - = - = = Dane, St. BERNARD, NEWFOUNDLAND - —- — GREYHOUND, Russtan WotrF Hounp, WHIPPET ~ AMERICAN WOLFHOUND, ENGLISH GREYHOUND — ENGLISH BLoOoDHOUNDS -— = = = = = AMERICAN BEAGLE, AMERICAN BRED FoxHouNDs OLp ENGLISH SHEEP Docs, CoLLIES - - —- -— AMERICAN Brep Co.tiiz, PoticE Dog -—- —- - AMERICAN BreD ENGLISH SETTER AND PUPPIES - Irish SETTER, ENGLISH SETTER, POINTER - = -—- Irish WATER SPANIELS, CHESAPEAKE Bay DoG - CockEeR SPANIEL, WEALDSTONE FIELD SPANIELS CLUMBER SPANIEL, CocKER SPANIEL -—- —- —- Cairn TERRIER, SEALYHAM TERRIER, OLD ENGLISH SHEEP Doc, WIRE-HAIRED Fox TERRIER, WELSH AERRIER: = 0-0 = SSeS eS PRG DALE, AtRepALe Puprirs = -— > =. =))):> IrtsH TERRIER, SCOTTISH TERRIER, WEsT HIGHLAND Waite ‘TERRIER, WIRE-HAIRED Fox TERRIER, SKYE TERRIERS, WELSH TERRIER - = = 7 Page 16 104 Lie 128 136. 152 168 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Tan BULLDOG \) = Se es Frencuo Butt, CHow Cuow, FRENncH Poop.e, Dat- RUATIUAIN (i) =) ede ee Encuish Toy SPANIEL, BLENHEIM SPANIEL, THE PoMERANIAN, YORKSHIRE TERRIER, THE ScHIp- PERE = = (SU SS JAPANESE SPANIEL, JAPANESE SPANIEL’S PUPPIES, PEKINGESE, BRUSSELS GRIFFON | >) > — ee PNCLISH PUGS: (=) US) uth ee DosBerMAN, NorwEGIAN ELKHOUND, SAMOYED, CHIHUAHUA Se 280 THE ORIGIN OF THE DOG ALTHOUGH the exact origin of the dog is shrouded in that old and familiar refuge of the scientists, ‘‘the mists of antiquity,” their family history is easily traced back through the bronze age and the stone age to the geological drift that first evidenced the use of fire, which is ordinarily accepted as indicating the advent of man upon the earth. Further than this science sayeth not. Statues and carvings exist which show there were dogs in the most ancient times resembling in important particulars the breeds of the present, but it has never been decided whether these dogs or those of to-day were descended from some dog-like ancestor or were relatives of the fox, the jackal, or the wolf. On this subject it may be said that there is a resemblance in appearance be- tween some breeds of dogs and foxes. They are unlike, however, in character and habits, for the fox is not a social animal and does not hunt in packs, and foxes also have a peculiar odor that dogs have not. It may also be stated that despite the many cases referred to of crosses between foxes and dogs, there is not on record a duly authentic case of such a cross ever having occurred. What has been said about the lack of relationship between dogs and foxes does not hold good in refer- ence to wolves and jackals, for the latter so closely 9 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK resemble many breeds of dogs in gereral appear- ance, structure, habits, instincts, and mental qual- ities that they may be regarded as of one stock. It is impossible to formulate a definition that will in- clude all the varieties of the domestic dog that exclude all of the wild species. In addition to their marked similarity in size, appearance, and an- atomical structure, both wolves and jackals can be and frequently are trained, while domesticated dogs frequently become wild, consorting and _inter- breeding with the former, assuming their habits and changing their characteristics back to a wolf- like hound. The wolf and jackal when trained wag their tails, lick their masters’ hands, crouch or throw themselves on their back in submission, come when called, jump about when caressed, and in high spirits run around in circles or in figure eights, their plaintive howl changing to a businesslike bark. There are so many breeds of dogs so unlike in size and appearance that it is difficult to reconcile their being derived from a common ancestry. The marked disparity in size, however, between the tiny toy Spaniel and the St. Bernard is no greater than the disparity between the Percheron horse and the Shetland pony, the Patagonian and the pigmy. In the origin of species Darwin reports several interesting experiments, one being the breeding to- gether promiscuously of a large number of fancy pigeons of totally different sizes, varieties, and types. The result was one uniform type, the com- mon wild wood pigeon. In the face of these experi- ments it is probable that the breeding together of 10 THE ORIGIN OF THE DOG several varieties of horses would revert back to one uniform type, the wild horse, and the mating of all the different varieties of dogs would result in an animal in all respects similar to the wild dogs which are to be found in different parts of the world, par- ticularly in Africa. There is conclusive evidence to prove that the people who lived in the monolithic age, in both the Eastern and Western hemispheres, possessed dogs, living with them on the same terms of intimacy as exist to-day, and later the Chaldeans, the Assyrians, the Greeks, and the Romans owned dogs that were the progenitors of those of the present time. In fact, the prehistoric drifts, the ashes of fires and mould in caves revealing man’s first presence on the globe also reveal the presence of the dog. The history of the dog is the history of man, their origin is coexistent, their lives have been lived to- gether, and the extinction of the human race would likely be punctuated by the extinction of the dog. In the last half century great care has been given to the breeding of dogs. Thanks to dog shows and their rigid rules of registration demanded by the Kennel Club, the various canine types have been brought to a high state of perfection and kept un- compromisingly distinct. The elimination of the nondescript cur is steadily progressing, and the meeting on the streets of dogs that do not bear re- semblance to some recognized breed is becoming more and more uncommon, for within the last two years even the amateur dog owner is alive to the importance of keeping breeds distinct. II GUARD DOGS THE MASTIFF Tue Mastiff is one of the oldest and most typical of British dogs. It is probable that he owes his origin to the dogs of similar type that were used by Assyrian kings for lion hunting. There is also a similarity between them and the fierce Mollosian dog of the ancient Greeks. However this may be, there is no question but what the Mastiff has been cultivated in the British Isles for many centuries. It is mentioned in Roman history of the eighth year of the Christian era that the Mollosian dogs of the Greeks were pitted against the Pugnaces of Britain and that the latter overpowered them. It is also further stated by the same writer, Gratius Falliscus, that there were two kinds of British Pugnaces, a large and a small type, the latter probably being the prototype of the present Bulldog. The word “Mastiff” is derived from the Latin massivius, meaning massive or large, but at differ- ent times the names Tie-dog and Ban-dog have been applied to the Mastiff. At an early date they were undoubtedly used to guard flocks and herds as well as homes. Later they were trained to fight bulls, bears, lions, and other animals imported for that 12 GUARD DOGS purpose. Three well-trained Mastiffs, it 1s recorded, were considered a fair match for a bear, four for a lion. Fashions in dogs fluctuate. At one time the Mastiff was the pride of the British Show Ring and one of the most popular breeds in the couutry, but for some reason hard to understand—for the Mastiff is one of the most impressive of dogs—the public lost interest in the breed, and for the past twenty years it has steadily declined in favor, and the classes, once so well filled, are now deserted. It is to be hoped sincerely that ere long interest in this mag- nificent breed will be reawakened and that a reso- lute effort will be made to regain some of their old time popularity and glory, for as guards and com- panions they are unsurpassed In the selection of Mastiff puppies two to four months old, look for: Great size; massive, short head; deep, square muzzle; big, well-chiseled skull; short, deep, round body; straight forelegs and enormous bone. The standard of the Old English Mastiff Club is as follows: GENERAL CHARACTER AND SYMMETRY (value I0). —Large, massive, powerful, symmetrical, and well- knit frame. A combination of grandeur and good nature, courage and docility. GENERAL Description oF Heap.—In general out- line, giving a square appearance when viewed from any point. Breadth greatly to be desired, and should be in ratio to length of the whole head and face as 2 to 3. 2 ES THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK GENERAL DescriPTION OF Bopy (HEIGHT AND SuBSTANCE) (value 10).—Massive, broad, deep, long, powerfully built, on legs wide apart and squarely set. Muscles sharply defined. Size a great desideratum, if combined with quality. Height and substance important if both points are pro- portionately combined. SKULL (value 12).—Broad between the ears, fore- head flat, but wrinkled when attention is excited. Brows (superciliary ridges) slightly raised. Muscles of the temples and cheeks (temporal and masseter) well developed. Arch across the skull of a rounded, flattened curve, with a depression up the center of the forehead from the medium line between the eyes to half way up the sagittal suture. Face or Muzz.e (value 18).—Short, broad under the eyes, and keeping nearly parallel in width to the end of the nose; truncated, 1. e., blunt and cut off square, thus forming a right angle with the upper line of the face, of great depth from the point of the nose to underjaw. Underjaw broad to the end; canine teeth healthy, powerful, and wide apart; in- cisors level, or the lower projecting beyond the upper, but never sufficiently so as to become visible when the mouth is closed. Nose broad, with widely- spreading nostrils when viewed from the front; flat (not pointed or turned up) in profile. Lips diverg- ing at obtuse angles with the septum, and slightly pendulous, so as to show a square profile. Length of muzzle to whole head and face as 1 to 3. Cir- cumference of muzzle (measured midway between 14 GUARD DOGS the eyes and nose) to that of the head (measured before the ears) as 3 to 5. Ears (value 4).—Small, thin to the touch, wide apart, set on at the highest points of the sides of the skull, so as to continue the outline across the summit, and lying flat and close to the cheeks when in repose. Eyes (value 6).—Small, wide apart, divided by at least the space of two eyes. The stops between the eyes well marked, but not too abrupt. Color, hazel-brown, the darker the better, showing no haw. CueEst AND Riss (value 8).—Neck slightly arched, moderately long, very muscular, and measuring in circumference about one or two inches less than the skull before the ears. Chest wide, deep, and well let down between the forelegs. Ribs arched and well rounded. False ribs deep and well set back to the hips. Girth should be one-third more than the height at the shoulder. Shoulder and arm slightly sloping, heavy, and muscular. ForEeLecs AND FEET (value 6).—Legs straight, strong, and set wide apart; bones very large. El- bows square. Pasterns upright. Feet large and round. Toes well arched up. Nails black. Back, Loins, anp FLanxs (value 8).—Back and loins wide and muscular; flat and very wide in a bitch, slightly arched in a dog. Great depth of flanks. Hinpiecs AnD Feet (value 10).—Hindquarters broad, wide, and muscular, with well-developed second thighs. Hocks bent, wide apart, and quite squarely set when standing or walking. Feet round. rs THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK Tart (value 3).—Put on high up, and reaching to the hocks, or a little below them, wide at its root and tapering to the end, hanging straight in repose, but forming a curve, with the end pointing upward but not over the back when the dog 1s excited. Coat Cotor (value 5).—Coat short and close lying, but not too fine over the shoulders, neck and back. Color, apricot or silver fawn or dark fawn- brindle. In any case muzzle, ears, and nose should be black, with black around the orbits, and extend- ing upward between them. ST. BERNARD This noble breed of dogs has a strong hold on popular sentiment, as they are associated with the saving of life in Alpine snows. The breed probably originated in Switzerland, certainly the name did, but the dog that we know to-day is largely the product of the fanciers of other lands, England in particular. For hundreds of years the monks of St. Bernard, a monastery in the Alps at the apex of the pass of that name, kept a kennel of large dogs, which ac- companied the monks who daily patrol the pass to guide and assist travelers, and they undoubtedly from time to time detected travelers who had fallen helpless in the snow and would have escaped the human eye. These occurrences served as a basis upon which some remarkable stories have been written of dogs patroling the pass alone and making miraculous and thrilling rescues. 16 English Mastiff, Ch. Beowulf. = . * ili ) GUARD DOGS The most celebrated of the Hospice dogs of the last century was Barry, who is said to have as- sisted in the rescue of over forty wanderers. This dog, mounted, is now in the museum at Berne, Switzerland. He was smooth coated and bears little resemblance to the modern St. Bernard. Just what the origin of the Hospice breed was it is impossible to say, but it is not unlikely that they sprang from the Pyrenean sheep dog. At least it is recorded that when the kennels were devastated by distemper, which occurred several times, and the dogs which were left showed signs of degenerating from inbreeding, the monks introduced the blood of the native Shepherd as well as the Great Dane and the Newfoundland. Through this intermixture of blood the stamina of the breed was restored, and by careful selecting the type was fixed with a reason- able degree of certainty. The monks have never been partial to the rough- coated dogs, as they found that their heavy coat and feathering soon clogged up with snow and handicapped their movements. Consequently they retained the smooth coats for the Hospice kennels and disposed of the rough coats to Swiss fanciers, and it was from these fanciers that most of the an- cestors of the dogs with which the public is now familiar were obtained. Since then English fanciers have introduced the blood of the Mastiff and the Bloodhound, and the result of this intermixture of breeds is the St. Bernard of to-day, a magnificent animal that commands attention in any company 17 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK for his size, beautiful coat, coloring, and majestic mien. As a rule the St. Bernard is docile in tempera- ment and affectionate in disposition. The monks were very particular about markings, and type was not so important so long as the dog was big and strong. White, orange, and black were the colors looked for, a white blaze running up the face and joining the collar of the same color that circled the neck and crossed the shoulders and chest. The body was patched with orange and the orange color gradually deepened in color as it ap- proached the white until it became black at the fringe. Particularly desired was a spot in the center of the white on the forehead. The idea of these markings being the representation of the stole, the chasuble, and scapular of the vestments of their order. Present-day fanciers do not attach so much importance to these markings. In the selecting of St. Bernard puppies at from two to four months and after, look for great size and massiveness; head medium in length, with very deep, square muzzle, decided stop, massive skull, but the substance well distributed, not broad like a Mastiff. The puppy should show signs of growing tall, and promise enormous bone, short, deep body. A rich orange is the favorite color, with white collar, blaze, and dark shadings. The roughs show more coat as puppies than the smooths. The standard adopted by the St. Bernard Club of America is as follows: 18 GUARD DOGS GENERAL CHARACTER.—Powerful, tall (upstand- ing), figure erect, strong and muscular in every part, with powerful head and most intelligent expression. In dogs with a black mask the expression appears more stern, but never ill-natured. Heap.—Like the whole body, very powerful and imposing. The massive skull is wide, slightly arched and sloping at the sides, with a gentle curve into the very well developed cheek bones. Occiput only slightly developed. The supra-orbital ridge is strongly developed and forms nearly a right angle with the horizontal apex of the head. Between the two supra-orbital arches and starting at the root of the muzzle runs a furrow over the whole skull; it is very deep between the supra-orbital arches and strongly defined up to the forehead, becoming grad- ually more shallow toward the base of the occiput. The lines at the sides, from the outer corner of the eyes, diverge considerably toward the back of the head. The skin on the forehead forms somewhat deep wrinkles, more or less distinct, and converging from the supra-orbital arch toward the furrow over the forehead; especially in action they are more visible, without in the least causing the expression to become stern. The stop is sudden and rather steep. Muzzie.—The muzzle is short, not snipy, and its depth, taken at the stop, must be greater than the length. The bridge of the muzzle is not arched, but straight, and in some dogs slightly broken. From the stop over the entire bridge of the muzzle to the i? THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK nose runs a rather wide, well-marked, shallow fur- row. The flews of the upper jaw are strongly de- veloped, not cut at right angles, but turning with a graceful curve into the lower edge, and are slightly overhanging. The flews of the lower jaw must not be pendant. The teeth, in proportion to the con- formation of the head, are moderately strongly de- veloped. A black roof to the mouth is desirable. Nose.—lIs very substantial and broad, with well- dilated nostrils, and, like the lips, always black. Ears.—Are of moderate size, set rather high, with very strongly developed burr. They stand slightly outward at the base, then drop with a sharp bend to the side and lie closely to the head without a fold. The flap is thin and forms a rounded triangle, slightly elongated toward the point, the front edge lying closely to the head, whereas the back edge may stand away from the head somewhat, especially . when the dog is listening. Ears lightly set on, which at the base lie close to the head, give it an oval and too slightly marked appearance, whereas a strongly developed base gives the skull a squarer, broader, . and much more expressive appearance. Eyes.—Set more to the front than the sides, are of moderate size, brown or nut-brown, with a saga- cious and good-natured expression, set moderately deep. The lower eyelids do not as a rule fit close to the eyeballs, and form toward the inner corner an angular wrinkle. Eyelids which are too pendant and showing conspicuously the lachrymal glands or a red, thick haw are objectionable. 20 GUARD DOGS Necx.—Is set on high, very strong, and in action is carried erect; otherwise horizontally or slightly downward. The junction of head and neck is dis- tinctly marked by a line. Neck very muscular and rounded at the sides, which makes it appear rather short. Clearly noticeable dewlaps, but too much development of this is not desirable. SHOULDERS.—Sloping and broad, very muscular and powerful, withers strongly defined. Cuest.—Well arched, moderately deep, not reach- ing below the elbows. Bacx.—Very broad, slightly arched in the loin only; otherwise perfectly straight as far as the haunches, sloping gently ‘from the haunches to the rump, and merging imperceptibly into the root of the tail. Hrnpeuarters.—Well developed, thighs very muscular. Betty.—Showing distinctly where it joins the very powerful loins, only slightly drawn up. TaiL.—Starting broad and powerful directly from the rump; is long, very heavy, ending in a blunt tip. In repose it hangs straight down, turning gently upward in the lower third. In a great many speci- mens the tail is carried with the end turned slightly to one side (as in all former hospice dogs, according to old pictures), and therefore hangs down in the shape of a “P.”’ In action all dogs must carry their tails more or less turned upward, but not too erect or over the back; a slight curling over of the tip is admissible. 21 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK Forearms.—Very powerful and extraordinarily muscular. ForELEGS.—Straight, strong. Hinpiecs.—Slightly bent on the hocks, and ac- cording to the presence of single or double dew- claws, the feet turn outward more or less, which, however, must not be understood to mean cow- hocked. Frerer.—Broad, with strong toes moderately well closed up, and knuckles rather high. The single or double dewclaws set on low, so as to be almost on a level with the pad of the foot, give a greater surface and prevents the dog from breaking easily through the snow. There are dogs which have on their hind feet a regularly developed fifth toe (thumbs). The so-called dewclaws (wolf-sklaun) which sometimes occur on the hindlegs are imperfectly developed toes; they are of no use to the dog and are not taken into consideration in judging. Coat.—Is very dense, broken haired (stock haar- ing), lying smooth (flat), tough, without feeling rough to the touch. Thighs slightly bushy. The tail at the root is covered with longer and more dense hair, which gradually becomes shorter toward the tip. The tail is bushy, but not forming a flag. Cotor anD Marxincs.—White, and orange and white; orange in all its various shades, white with light to dark barred brindle patches, or these colors with white markings. The colors orange or light brindle and dark are of entirely equal value. The following markings are absolutely necessary: White ae GUARD DOGS chest, feet and tip of tail, noseband (white muzzle); white spot on nape and a blaze are very desirable. Never self-covered or without white. Faulty are all other colors except black shadings on the face and ears. Heicut.—At shoulder of the dog (measured with the hound measure) ought to be thirty-nine inches; of the bitch, thirty-seven inches. The bitches are throughout of a more delicate and finer build. All variations not in accordance with these points are faulty. THE ROUGH-COATED ST. BERNARD The long-haired is perfectly similar, with the ex- ception of the coat, which is not “stock haaring” (broken haired), but moderately long, flat or slightly wavy, but which ought never to be either rolled or curly, neither ought it to be shaggy. On the back, especially from the region of the haunches to the rump, the hair is generally more wavy. This is, however, also slightly noticeable in the short- haired dogs, even in those from the hospice. The tail is bushy, well covered with moderately long hair. Rolled or locky hair on the tail is not desirable. A tail with parted hair or feathered is faulty. Face and ears are covered with short, soft hair. Longer silky hair is allowable at the base of the ears; in fact, this is nearly always present. Forelegs only slightly feathered. Thighs bushy. Faults are all such formations as indicate a New- foundland cross, such as swayback, disproportion- — THE COMPLETE DOG) BOOK ately long backs, hocks too much bent, and spaces between the toes, with upward growing hair. No scale of points has been adopted. Cotor and Marxines.—The following white markings are absolutely necessary: Noseband (white muzzle) blaze, chest, legs, and tip of tail. A color or a spot on the nape is very desirable. THE NEWFOUNDLAND This magnificent breed of dogs shares with the St. Bernard the honor of being a life-saving breed. The fact that the postage stamp of the Island of Newfoundland bears their portrait indicates the re- gard in which they are held in their native land. Abroad, they have been the subjects of painters and writers, and more than one has received the medal of the Royal Humane Society. While there is no exact information as to how the breed originated, it is probable that early settlers from Europe carried with them dogs of large size. The island, on account of its fishermen, has always been in close communication with other countries, and these dogs undoubtedly were reinforced from time to time with dogs brought out by sea captains or fishermen, and from this parent stock the New- foundland was evolved. The hazardous calling of the fishing banks natu- rally developed a race of men combining strength, vigor, and the coolest of courage. The same con- ditions that develop men develop their dogs. In their native home the Newfoundlands share all the 24 soporte WIOA 9107T “Y) "vjO'T Xo uLIvYMO Jalys oprsopsuy : ‘QINy[VM “YD UR WwaIH sy] SUUy WOA vIJO;Yy x9 UUT WOA 10}99¢ ‘uuy ¢ :0ueq WwaIg—wMoNog ‘“pur[puNoJMaNy “PseUusIog “3S Bese Sin oe iceseocc con se seen arsnainoates aurea rusia volsbise a" Ps Prvsvssciereayss Oven cicarcontass Qc anna vs hanson nant niae eeces ese uvqny ‘aueq jwoin uinbayrepy—doy i co ———— GUARD DOGS duties and dangers of their owners. They assist in hauling in the nets. They drag the sledges across the snow in the depths of winter, and when the men are away, as they frequently are for weeks, it is left to the dogs to guard the homes and watch over the women and children. Newfoundlands are as much at home in the water as on land, and Nature has provided them a coat that protects them against the exigencies of their stern climate. No dog has been the subject of more popular sentiment than the Newfoundland. The greatest portrait artists have portrayed them, poets have sung of them, and writers in all languages have re- lated their heroic virtues. It is generally agreed that the Newfoundland breed are worthy of the honors and distinctions that have been heaped upon them. They are unsurpassed in strength, courage, and intelligence. Their great docility recommends them as companions and guards. The ready forti- tude with which they dash to the assistance of per- sons in distress, particularly in danger of drowning, has - gained themuniversal recognition as the friendsof man. While the native home of these dogs lies at our doors, they have never become popular in this country. Large, black dogs of unknown breeding are sometimes shown as Newfoundlands, and occa- sionally a good one appears, but they are so seldom met with that but few shows provide classes for them. In England the breed is on a stronger basis. A club looks after their interest and a standard has been provided for them. The description and points 25 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK laid down are all from the standpoint that the New- foundland dog is an aquatic dog without an equal. In choosing Newfoundland puppies at from two to four months old, look for great size of typical, moderately long head, muzzle free from lippiness, but not snipy; dark eyes, not much stop; medium ears, set close to side of head; big, short body; rather short legs with enormous bone; coat dense and almost like fur. In the white-and-blacks the color should be equally distributed. The following is the British Newfoundland Club’s standard description and scale of points: SYMMETRY AND GENERAL APPEARANCE.— The dog should impress the eye with strength and great activity. He should move freely on his legs, with the body swung loosely between them, so that a slight roll in gait should not be objectionable; but at the same time a weak or hollow back, slackness of the loins, or cowhocks should be a decided fault. Heapv.—Should be broad and massive, flat on the skull, the occipital bone well developed; there should be no decided stop, and the muzzle should be short, clean cut, rather square in shape, and covered with short, fine hair. | Coat.—Should be flat and dense, of a coarseish texture and oily nature, and capable of resisting the water. If brushed the wrong way it should fall back into its place naturally. Bopy.—Should be well ribbed-up, with a broad back. A neck strong, well set onto the shoulders and back, and strong, muscular loins. 26 GUARD DOGS ForeLecs.—Should be perfectly straight, well covered with muscle, elbows in but well let down, and feathered all down. HInDQuarTERS AND Lecs.—Should be very strong; the legs should have great freedom of action, and a little feather. Slackness of loins and cowhocks are a great defect; dewclaws are objectionable, and should be removed. Cuest.—Should be deep and fairly broad, and well covered with hair, but not to such an extent as to form a frill. Bone.—Massive throughout, but not to give a heavy, inactive appearance. Freet.—Should be large and well shaped. Splayed or turned out feet are objectionable. Tait.—Should be of moderate length, reaching down a little below the hocks; it should be of fair thickness and well covered with long hair, but not to form a flag. When the dog is standing still and not excited it should hang downwards, with a slight curve at the end; but when the dog is in motion it should be carried a trifle up, and when he is excited, straight out, with a slight curve at the end. Tails with a kink in them, or curled over the back, are very objectionable. Ears.—Should be small, set well back, square with the skull, lie close to the head, and covered with short hair, and no fringe. Eves.—Should be small, of a dark brown color, rather deeply set, but not showing any haw, and they should be rather widely apart. 2] THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK Cotor.—Jet black. A slight tinge of bronze or a splash of white on chest and toes is not objec-. tionable. Heicut AnD WEIcHT.—Size and weight are very desirable, so long as symmetry is maintained. A fair average height at the shoulders is 27 inches for a dog and 25 inches for a bitch, and a fair average weight is respectively: Dogs, 140 pounds to 150 pounds; bitches, 110 pounds to 120 pounds. OrHer THan Bracx.—Should in all respects fol- low the black except in color, which may be almost any, as long as it disqualifies for the black class, but the colors most to be encouraged are black-and- white and bronze. Beauty in markings to be taken greatly into consideration. Dogs that have been entered in black classes at shows held under kennel club rules where classes are provided for dogs other than black shall not be qualified to compete in other than black classes in future. Black dogs that have only white toes and white breasts and white tip to tail are to be exhibited in the classes provided for black. VALUE OF Points.—Shape of skull, 8; ears, 10; eyes, 8; muzzle, 8; neck, 4; chest; 6; shomldessae loin and back, 12; hindquarters and tail, 10; legs and feet, 10; coat, 12; size, height, and general appearance, 8; total, 100. 28 GUARD DOGS THE GREAT DANE The Great Dane, or Boarhound, as it was for- merly called, is of ancient type, and there are coins which were made before the Christian era that bear an impression of a large, long-headed, powerful dog of the general proportions and appearance of the present Great Dane. In Germany the ears of these dogs are still cropped, presumably to give them what is considered a more alert and striking appearance, but this practice has been abolished in most other countries. In earlier times the breed was used as a protector of property and person, as well as a hunter. A stronger type of dog was designated the Ulmer Mastiff. With the introduction of dog shows the breed re- ceived greater attention in its native country, where a club has been established for the purpose of pro- moting and encouraging its propagation upon lines which the club has laid down according to its con- ception of what the correct type and features should be. The disposition of the Great Dane, like that of all dogs, naturally is docile, although dogs vary somewhat in their temperaments. This docility should be fostered when young, at which time character in the dog, as in the youth, is to a great extent formed. If a Great Dane is spoiled in his upbringing he is, on account of his great size and power, more than ordinarily dangerous, which fact 3 29 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK emphasizes the necessity for great care being ex- ercised in his rearing and absolute control being obtained over the animal. The chief points to look for in the selection of Great Dane puppies at from two to four months old and after, are: Great size; a long, telescopic head, almost free from stop; deep, square muzzle; small, deep-set eye; narrow skull, small ears, short body, deep chest, well-sprung ribs, straight forelegs, and great bone. The standard of the Great Dane as approved by the Great Dane Club of America is as follows: GENERAL APPEARANCE.—The Great Dane (Deut- sche Dogge) combines in his whole appearance size, strength, and refinement as hardly any other breed. He has not the heavy and clumsy look of the Mastiff, nor the lightness of the Greyhound, but holds about the middle relation between these extremes. Im- mense size, with strong, albeit elegant conformation; high stepping and proud bearing; head and neck high; tail, when quiet, hanging down; when excited, straight or only slightly raised above back. Heap.—Rather long, more high and pressed in on the sides than broad and flat appearing; seen from the side shows decided stop; line of forehead and nose must be parallel with each other; viewed from the front the forehead should not appear much broader than the strong, developed muzzle; cheeks very little developed. The head should from all sides appear squarish and clean in all its lines; nose large, bridge straight or only slightly 30 GUARD DOGS arched; lips blunt, forming a right angle with line of head, and with medium yet distinct flews; jaws even, eyes medium large, round, and with sharp expression; brows well developed; ears high set on, moderately wide between, and standing erect, hav- ing a pointed crop. NeEcK AND SHOULDERS.—Neck long, strong, and slightly arched, with well-defined line where con- necting with head; from shoulder to head gradually growing finer; no dewlap; shoulder long and sloping. Cuest.—Moderately broad, ribs fairly sprung, reaching far back, deep in front; should go almost down to elbow joint. | Bopy.—Back moderately long; loin slightly arched, croup short, slightly dropping, and running in fine lines to stern; seen from above, the broad back con- nects well with the fairly sprung ribs; thighs should be strongly developed and hams well muscled up. Under line of body a graceful curve, well tucked up in flank. Tait.—Medium length, reaching just to the hock, strong at root, end well tapered, but should never, even under excitement, be carried high over the back or curled. ForeLecs.—Elbow well down at right angle to shoulder blades, and neither turned in nor out; forearm well muscled; the whole leg strong, and, seen in front, appears, on account of muscle develop- ment, slightly bent; seen from the side, perfectly straight from elbow to pastern. HinpDQuarTERS.—Long, well muscled, and well 31 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK let down; fairly bent; seen from behind, stifle must appear entirely straight, neither in nor out. Fret.—Catfoot; neither turned in nor out; well arched and closed toes; nails strong and curved; dewclaws not desired. Coatr.—Short, dense, and smooth, slightly longer on underside of tail. Cotor.—A. Brindle; body color from the lightest fawn to the richest golden tan; always with black, or at least dark stripes. B. Whole-colored; fawn in the different shades, whether entirely one color or darker shadings of the same on muzzle, eyebrows, and back; also all black and all white. The nose in brindle or whole-colored dogs (except all whites) always black. Eyes and toenails dark. White markings not desirable. C. Spotted (Har- lequin), body color white, with irregularly-formed but regularly-distributed spots of black; other colors, except markings as the above, are faulty. Harle- quins or all white dogs have sometimes wall eyes, flesh-colored or spotted nose and white nails, which are permissible in these colors. Size.—The height of dogs should not be under 30 inches; bitches 28 inches or more. Length should not exceed height at shoulders. VALUE OF Pornrs.—General appearance and type, 12; head, 18; neck, 8; chest and brisket, 5; back and loins, 7; legs and feet, g; bones and muscle, 6; croup, 4; tail, 7; movement, 8; height, 6; color and mark- ings, 6; condition and coat, 4. Total, 100. 32 COURSING HOUNDS THE SCOTTISH DEERHOUND Tuts magnificent breed of dogs has occupied a prominent place in the romantic history of Scotland, and looks well the part they have played as companion to Highland Chieftains. They have a most noble presence, and are at once docile, sagacious, and undeniably courageous. As companions and guards they are unsurpassed, for they never forget their friends, and their attachment for their owners is a blind devotion that will lead them to fight for their protection with the utmost desperation. In the field the Deerhound not only has a very keen nose, but can run down the deer, jackrabbit, coyote, or wolf, and can kill them alone and un- aided. He will tree a mountain lion or a black bear, and would not hesitate to fight a grizzly if in pro- tection of his master. No dog combines more beauty, strength, and utility than these aristocrats of the canine world. The chief points to look for in the selection of Deerhound puppies at from two to four months old and after, are: A long, level head, dark eye, long neck, well-placed shoulders, great bone, deep chest, well-sprung ribs, big hindquarters, short body. The Scottish Deerhound standard and description is as follows: Heap.—The head should be broadest at the ears, 33 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK tapering slightly to the eyes, with the muzzle taper- ing more decidedly to the nose. The muzzle should be pointed, but the teeth and lips level. The head should be long, the skull flat rather than round, with a very slight rise over the eyes, but with nothing ap- proaching a stop. The skull should be coated with moderately long hair, which is softer than the rest of the coat. The nose should be black (though in some blue-fawns the color is blue), and slightly aquiline. In the lighter colored dogs a black muzzle is preferred. There should be a good mustache of rather silky hair, and a fair beard. Ears.—The ears should be set on high, and, in repose, folded back like the Greyhound’s, though raised above the head in excitement without losing the fold, and even in some cases semi-erect. A prick ear is bad. A big, thick ear, hanging flat to the head or heavily coated with long hair is the worst of faults. The ear should be soft, glossy, and like a mouse’s coat to the touch, and the smaller it is the better. It should have no long coat or long fringe, but there is often a silky, silvery coat on the body of the ear and the tip. Whatever the general color, the ears should be black or dark-colored. Neck AND SHOULDERS.—The neck should be long—that is, of the length that befits the Grey- hound character of the dog. An over long neck is not necessary nor desirable, for the dog is not re- quired to stoop to his work like a Greyhound, and it must be remembered that the mane, which every good specimen should have, detracts from the ap- oo: COURSING HOUNDS parent length of neck. Moreover, a Deerhound requires a very strong neck to hold a stag. The nape of the neck should be very prominent where the head is set on, and the throat should be clean- cut at the angle and prominent. The shoulders should be well sloped, the blades well back, and not too much width between them. Loaded and straight shoulders are very bad faults. STERN.—Stern should be tolerably long, tapering, and reaching to within 114 inches of the ground and about 11% inches below the hocks. When the dog is still, dropped perfectly straight down or curved. When in motion it should be curved, when excited in no case to be lifted out of the line of the back. It should be well covered with hair, on the inside thick and wiry; underside longer, and toward the end a slight fringe not objectionable. A curl or ring tail very undesirable. Eyes.—The eyes should be dark; generally they are dark brown or hazel. A very light eye is not liked. The eye is moderately full, with a soft look in repose, but a keen, far-away look when the dog is aroused. The rims of the eyelids should be black. Bopy.—The body and general formation is that of a Greyhound of larger size and bone. Chest deep rather than broad, but not too narrow and flat- sided. The loin well arched and drooping to the tail. A straight back is not desirable, this forma- tion being unsuitable for going uphill, and very unsightly. Lecs anD Feet.—The legs should be broad and a0 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK flat, a good broad forearm and elbow being desir- able. Forelegs, of course, as straight as possible. Feet close and compact, with well-arched toes. The hindquarters drooping and as broad and power- ful as possible, the hips being set wide apart. The hindlegs should be well bent at the stifle, with great length from the hip to the hock, which should be broad and flat. Cow hocks, weak pasterns, straight stifles, and splay feet very bad faults. Coat.—The hair on the body, neck, and quarters should be harsh and wiry, and about three or four inches long; that on the head, breast, and belly 1s much softer. There should be a slight hairy fringe on the inside of the fore and hind legs, but nothing approaching “‘the feather” of a Collie. The Deer- hound should be a shaggy dog, but not overcoated. A woolly coat is bad. Some good strains have a slight mixture of silky coat with the hard, which is preferable to a woolly coat, but the proper coat is a thick, close-lying, ragged coat, harsh or crisp to the touch. CoLtor.—Color is much a matter of fancy. But there is no manner of doubt that the dark-blue-grey is the most preferred. Next come the darker and lighter greys or brindles, the darkest being generally preferred. Yellow and sandy-red or red-fawn, es- pecially with black points—z. e., ears and muzzles— are also in equal estimation, this being the color of the oldest known strains, the McNeil and the Chesthill Menzies. White is condemned by all the old authorities, but a white chest and white toes, 36 COURSING HOUNDS occurring as they do in a great many of the darkest- colored dogs, are not so greatly objected to, but the less the better, as the Deerhound is a self-colored dog. A white blaze on the head or a white collar should entirely disqualify. In other cases, though passable, yet an attempt should be made to get rid of white markings. The less white the better, but a slight white tip to the stern occurs in the best strains. Heicut or Docs.—From 28 inches to 30 inches, or even more if there be symmetry without coarse- ness, which is rare. Hetcut or Bircues.—From 26 inches upwards. There can be no objection to a bitch being large, unless too coarse, as even at her greatest height she does not approach that of the dog, and therefore could not have been too big for work, as over-big dogs are. Besides, a big bitch is good for breeding and keeping up the size. WeicutT.—From 85 pounds to 105 pounds in dogs; from 65 pounds to 80 pounds in bitches. THE IRISH WOLFHOUND It is clearly attested both by history and tradi- tion that there existed in Ireland in early times a large, rugged hound of Greyhound form, used to hunt the Irish elk, the wolf, the red deer, and the fox. This dog was known to the Romans, who car- ried them back after their invasion of the island, and there are records of them being presented to Norwegian kings. In course of time the wolves dis- oF THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK appeared, the elk became extinct, and with them all but passed away a noble breed of dogs. In fact, it has been claimed that the real Irish Wolfhound became extinct about one hundred years ago. This was vigorously denied by others, who, while they admitted that the breed had deteriorated, asserted that there was still existent enough of the old blood to restore the breed to a resemblance of its original type. The leader in this movement was Captain Graham, who for a score of years devoted himself to the resuscitation of the breed with conspicuous SUCCESS. There have been many theories advanced as to the origin of the Irish Wolfhound, but the opinion of Captain Graham is probably nearest the truth, for it is his belief that the Irish Hound that was kept to hunt wolves never became extinct, but 1s now repeated in the Scottish Deerhound, only altered a little in size and strength to suit the easier work required of it, that of hunting the deer. The old Irish Wolfhound was called upon to hunt the wolf and the Irish elk, an immense animal standing six feet high at the shoulder, with a spread of antlers of ten or twelve feet, and it required a much more powerful hound to cope with these animals than the deer which are now existent. One thing is certain: the chief factor in the re- suscitation of the Irish Wolfhound has been the Scottish Deerhound. In building up the breed Captain Graham secured bitches from three strains, which it was believed were direct and pure de- 38 COURSING HOUNDS scendants of the old line, although they were not nearly as large as those mentioned in early writings. These were crossed on the Scottish Deerhound and the Great Dane. Later on Borzoi blood was in- troduced through a dog named Koratai. These matings and the mixing of the blood of these breeds resulted in progeny with both size and bone, but unshapely in form. By careful elimination and se- lection they were eventually graded up to a fixity of type, and for the past thirty-five years they have been among the most attractive dogs seen at shows. There is naturally a great deal of similarity be- tween the Scottish Deerhound and the Irish Wolf- hound, for much of the same blood is in their veins. The Irish dog is larger, more powerful, and less elegant in outline. His coat is also harder in texture and his jaw more powerful. As in the case of most big dogs, the great diff- culty in breeding the Irish Wolfhound is to insure straight forelegs and sound hindquarters. Of course, a great deal depends upon the rearing of the dogs in this particular connection. A puppy may be found sound and straight in limb and become in- curably defective by his faulty bringing up. This is the tendency, and such faults as cow hocks (which are very prevalent in the breed), crooked forelegs, or splay feet, once established become hereditary, and should be carefully avoided. A little white on the chest is perfectly immaterial, and color is but of secondary importance, the favorite color being grizzle or wheaten. 39 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK The chief points to look for in the selection of (rish Wolfhound puppies at from two to four months old and after, are: A long, level head, great strength of muzzle, big nostrils, enormous bone, big body, deep chest, big hindquarters, moderately short body. The Irish Wolfhound’s standard description is as follows: GENERAL APPEARANCE.—The Irish Wolfhound should not be quite so heavy or massive as the Great Dane, but more so than the Deerhound, which in general type he should otherwise resemble. Of great size and commanding appearance, very mus- cular, strongly though gracefully built, movements easy and active; head and neck carried high; the tail carried with an upward sweep with a slight curve toward the extremity. THe Minimum Heicut anp WEIcHT of dogs should be 31 inches and 120 pounds; of bitches, 28 inches and go pounds. Anything below this should be debarred from competition. Great size, including height at shoulder and _ proportionate length of body, is the desideratum to be aimed at, and it is desired to firmly establish a race that shall average from 32 inches to 34 inches in dogs, showing the requisite power, activity, courage, and sym- metry. | Heap.—Long, the frontal bones of the forehead very slightly raised and very little indentation be- tween the eyes. Skull not too broad. Muzzle long and moderately pointed. Ears small and Greyhound- like in carriage. 40 ‘Apjog viaddiyyy yy, $1] 3921 pee] pue TT TyossoH :Punoydory ysarg—wonog —“elOs "UD :puUNoOTY JJOAA UBISsNY SAsolrvP x9 ULYOeIIOD “YD ‘Josue y S,UvUOY 3S “YD :punoyss0q] ysi3309g—do, CEE eeoeiamos , Pee Oe T ~ Di ae 7 —— —=— ty 1 - COURSING HOUNDS Necx.—Rather long, very strong and muscular, well arched, without dewlap, or loose skin about the throat. Cuest.—Very deep. Breast wide. Bacx.—Rather long than short. Loins arched. Tait.—Long and slightly curved, of moderate thickness, and well covered with hair. Betty.—Well drawn up. Forequarters.—Shoulders muscular, giving breadth of chest, set sloping. Elbows well under, neither turned inwards nor outwards. Lec.—Forearm muscular, and the whole leg strong and quite straight. Hinpquartrers.—Muscular thighs and second thigh long and strong as in the Greyhound, and hocks well let down and turning neither in nor out. Frret.—Moderately large and round, neither turned inwards nor outwards. ‘Toes well arched and closed. Nails very strong and curved. Hair.—Rough and hard on body, legs, and head; especially wiry and long over eyes and underjaw. Cotor AnD Marxincs.—The recognized colors are grey, brindle, red, black, pure white, fawn, or any color that appears in the Deerhound. [Captain Graham states that he has seen several perfectly black-and-tan Deerhounds.] Fautts.—Too light or heavy a head, too highly arched frontal bone, large ears and hanging flat to the face; short neck; full dewlap; too narrow or too broad a chest; sunken or hollow or quite straight back; bent forelegs; overbent fetlocks; twisted feet; Al THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK spreading toes; too curly a tail; weak hindquarters and a general want of muscle; too short in body. THE RUSSIAN WOLFHOUND In Russia, the land of their birth, these hand- some, stately, high-bred dogs are known as Borzoi or Psovoi, and are used for coursing and wolf hunt- ing. They are carefully trained to run up alongside of a fleeing wolf, collar him by the neck just under the ear, and never loose their hold, no matter how often they may roll over together, until the hunter comes up and either muzzles or dispatches the victim. When slipped in pairs, which is the usual pro- cedure, the art comes in in having them so evenly matched in speed that they can range up on either side of the wolf simultaneously, pin him by the neck, and hold him safely without injury to themselves. In the early trials that these dogs were given on | western wolves they did not perform as satisfactorily as had been expected of them, probably due to the fact that they lacked experience and training. Their aristocratic appearance is very much in their favor as companions. Some question has been raised as to their disposition, and there is no dis- puting that many of them are snappy, quarrelsome, and uncertain, while others are sweet and lovable as it is only possible for a dog to be. It may be safely said that all depends upon the way they have been raised. 42 COURSING HOUNDS The points to look for in Borzoi puppies at from two to four months old and after, are: A phenomenally long head, rather Roman in shape of muzzle, very well filled up under the eyes, small eyes, set in obliquely; very narrow skull, with occipital bone well developed; powerful neck; very narrow shoulders; long, straight forelegs; very deep chest; loin arched; graceful outline. The following is the Borzoi Club’s standard of points, the height at shoulder being fixed at a very low minimum: Heap.—long and lean. The skull flat and nar- row; stop not perceptible, and muzzle long and tapering. The head from the forehead to the tip of the nose should be so fine that the shape and direc- tion of the bones and principal veins can be seen clearly, and in profile should appear rather Roman- nosed. Bitches should be even narrower in head than dogs. Eyes dark, expressive, almond-shaped, and not too far apart. Ears, like those of a Grey- hound, small, thin, and placed well back on the head, with the tips, when thrown back, almost touching behind the occiput. Necx.—The head should be carried somewhat low, with the neck continuing the line of the back. SHOULDERS.—Clean and sloping well back. Cuest.—Deep and somewhat narrow. Bacx.—Rather bony and free from any cavity in the spinal column, the arch in the back being more marked in the dog than in the bitch. 43 THE COMPLETE BOGIBOOK Loins.—Broad and very powerful, with plenty of muscular development. Tuicus.—Long and well developed, with good second thigh. Riss.—Slightly sprung at the angle; deep, reach- ing to the elbow and even lower. ForeLecs.—Lean and straight. Seen from the front, they should be narrow, and from the side, broad at the shoulders and narrowing gradually down to the foot, the bone appearing flat and not round as in the Foxhound. HinpDiecs.—Just a trifle under the body when standing still; not straight, and the stifle slightly bent. Muscies.—Well distributed and highly developed. PAsTERNS.—Strong. Freet.—Like those of the Deerhound, rather long. The toes close together and well arched. Coat.—Long, silky (not woolly), either dat, wavy, or rather curly. On the head, ears, and front legs it should be short and smooth. On the neck the frill should be profuse and rather curly. On the chest and rest of body, the tail, and hind- quarters, it should be long. The forelegs should be well feathered. Tait.—Long, well feathered, and not gaily car- ried. Heicut.—At shoulder of dogs, from 28 inches upward; of bitches, from 26 inches upward. Fauttrs.—Head short or thick. Too much stop. Parti-colored nose. Eyes too wide apart. Heavy 44 COURSING HOUNDS ears. Heavy shoulders. Wide chest. “Barrel” ribbed. Dewclaws. Elbows turned out, wide be- hind. THE GREYHOUND The Greyhound is probably the oldest member of his race. From time immemorial they have been popular as companions at home and in the hunting field. As a result of the time and care that have been spent upon them, they are the most highly de- veloped domestic animal in existence. In elegance of form, dignity, and cleanliness Greyhounds are worthy of their long descent. They are much more affectionate and intelligent than is usually believed, and in point of speed, courage, fortitude, endurance, and sagacity, they are the equals of any dog that lives. Well-bred Greyhounds know no fear, turn from no game animal on which they are sighted, no matter how large or ferocious, pursue with the speed of the wind, seize the instant they come up with the game, and stay in the fight until they or the quarry are dead. The general supposition that Greyhounds are devoid of the power of scent is a mistake, as can be attested by anyone who has ever hunted them in the West on large game. The uses to which they are put do not require keen olfactory organs; conse- quently their sense of smell has deteriorated some- what from lack of use, but it is far from being entirely gone ; 45 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK Coursers have no regular standard of size and weight, but the medium sized dog of about sixty- five to seventy pounds’ weight is usually the most useful. With them the head 1s a part of the dog’s anatomy of little or no account, since he has no particular use for it except to kill with his jaws. For this purpose the longer and stronger the jaws are the better. Ears again count for nothing, but a small eye is ob- jectionable, since it is with his eyes that the Grey- hound sights the hare, and a rather large eye, set in not too close, enables him the better to see puss’s many turns. A long and muscular neck is a great essential, set well into obliquely placed shoulders. The forelegs should be as straight as gun barrels, but the elbows should not be turned in, which pre- vents a dog from getting down to his work. Rather they should be turned out a trifle. The chest should be deep, the ribs gradually widening as they reach their terminus. The loins should be slightly arched, very broad and thick, like two big Atlantic cables traversing the dog’s back, and merging into broad and big hindquarters, the muscles of which should resemble two big, round loaves of bread stuck on the dog. The thighs should be wide and very muscular, both first and second thighs, the stifles well bent and the hocks well let down, being formed so as to appear from behind perfectly par- allel and free from the slightest taint of what is called “‘cow-hocks.”’ Flat or long loins are very objectionable, by which 46 COURSING HOUNDS the dog loses control over his hindquarters. The dog should be well “‘cut-up” under his loins in order that he may have greater freedom for the working of his hind limbs. Briefly, the dog should be com- paratively short-coupled on the top, but should, when standing, cover a lot of ground below, and he should be neither too long on the leg nor too short. Color is an altogether immaterial point; a good Greyhound, like a good horse, cannot be a bad color. The tail should be long and strong, since it is to the dog what the rudder 1s to the ship. The chief points to look for in the selection of Greyhound puppies at from two to four months old and after, are: A long neck, well-placed shoulders, great bone, deep chest, well sprung ribs, and big hindquarters. The following standard and scale of points is commonly used by bench-show judges, but, as previously stated, is given little consideration by practical coursing men: Heap.—The head of the Greyhound should be long, lean, and tapering; narrow across the skull as compared with some breeds, but should have sufh- cient width to allow for brain room. The eyes should be full, clear, and bright; the ears should be small and folded back close to the head; the jaws strong and level, not pig-jawed; the teeth strong and sound, so as to be able to hold the hare. The furrow between the eyes should be slightly marked, with little or no stop; the eyebrows should not be prominent. = THE COMPLEDE DOG BOOK Necx.—The neck should be long, lean, and arched, so as to enable the dog to catch up the hare without stooping. It should be set on to the head cleanly, and should widen gradually as it goes into the shoulders. Coat AND CoLor.—The coat should be short, smooth, and glossy. The color is of slight im- portance. Loin, Back Riss, anp HinpquartTers.—There should be good length from shoulders to back ribs, which should be well-sprung to afford good attach- ment for the muscles of the loins. A slight arch is permissible, but not to such an extent as to form a roach or wheel-back. The hindquarters should be powerful and muscular and show great length by reason of well-bent stifles. SHOULDERS AND ForeLecs.—Shoulders should be oblique. Forearm of good length, in line with the shoulders. Forelegs should be perfectly straight. The leg should be twice as long from the fetlock joint or knee as from the latter to the ground. Cuest.—Should be deep, but not so deep as to interfere with the irregularities of the ground when running at full speed. It should not be too wide nor too narrow; a happy medium. Freet.—The Greyhound may have either the cat- foot or the hare-foot, provided the toes are well together. TaiLt.—Fine, free from fringe, and nicely curved toward the end. ScaLe or Potnts.—Head, 10; neck, 10; chest and 48 American Wolfhound, Old Bill. English Greyhound, Fascinating Witch. 7 vi i a = ‘ . Yat! é ‘ “ At % ee * 3 "3 7 a — : fs 7 \. _ Pon . \ © jax. ; = y, —j COURSING HOUNDS forequarters, 20; loin and back ribs, 15; hind- Puarters, 20; feet, 15; tail, 5; color and coat, 4s. Total, 100. THE WHIPPET This graceful breed is nothing more or less than a miniature Greyhound, and was originally known as a snap dog by the colliers and working men in the north of England, who originated the breed, and used them for rabbit coursing. In later years these dogs have been taught straight running. That is, they are held in leash at a given mark by an attendant while the owner or some other person standing at the other end of the track shakes a handkerchief at the dogs and encourages them to race for it. There is an official starter, and the dogs are liberated at the shot of a pistol and immediately make a dash, straining every nerve to get at the handkerchief. The usual course is two hundred yards, and the dogs are handicapped according to weight or previous performances. The origin of the Whippet was probably ob- tained by a cross between the small Greyhound and the white English Terrier. They are keen little sportsmen, easily kept in condition, and of a most companionable disposition. In selecting a Whippet puppy at from two to four months old, the points to look for are almost identical with those of the Greyhound, of which it is a miniature, except that less bone is required and probably a little more arch of loin, both of which 49 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK variations are calculated to give the Whippet a little more speed, if less “staying” power, speed only being the great desideratum in the Whippet. The points of the Whippet may be briefly summed up by saying he should be an exact duplicate in miniature of the Greyhound. The following is the description of the Whippet, as formulated by the Whippet Club: Heap.—Long and lean, rather wide between the eyes, and flat at the top; the jaw powerful, i clearly cut; teeth level and white. Eves. —Bright and fiery. Ears.—Small, fine in texture, and rose shape. Necx.—Long and muscular, elegantly arched, and free from throatiness. SHOULDERS.—Oblique and muscular. CueEst.—Deep and capacious. Back.—Broad and square, rather long, and slightly arched over loin, which should be strong and powerful. ForeLecs.—Rather long, well set under dog, pos- sessing fair amount of bone. HINDQUARTERS.—Strong and broad across, stifles well bent, thighs broad and muscular, hocks well let down. FEerr.—Round, well split up, with strong soles. Ta1_.—Long, tapering, and nicely carried. Coat.—Fine and close. Cotor.—Black, red, white, brindle, fawn, blue, and the various mixtures of each. WEIGHT.—20 pounds. 50 SCENTING HOUNDS THE BLOODHOUND Tuis is one of the oldest as well as one of the least understood of all breeds of dogs. The most extrav- agant tales are related and stories written about them. The name suggests a ferocious animal, whereas they are of the most kindly nature, entirely lacking in all of the qualities which their name implies. They are the gentlest of companions, and if of pure breeding far less dangerous than any of the other big breeds. In the days of the bow and arrow the Bloodhound was trained to hunt the stag, — and was expected to track the wounded deer by the blood that dropped from the wounds of the arrow, all of which has been done away with for many years. A great deal has been written about hunting slaves in southern States in pre-war times. As a matter of fact the dogs that were used to trail the runaways were small foxhounds and not blood- hounds. The stories told of Bloodhounds following the scent of a man through crowded streets are also gross exaggerations. It is impossible for them to do so. Therefore they are of little or no use to the police authorities in detecting criminals in crowded cities. In the country, however, Bloodhounds can be used to capture criminals. They will make out a scent that is several hours old and follow it Ly! THE COMPLETE DOG /5OOK accurately. Repeated trials, however, indicate that it is impossible for them to carry these trails where they have been crossed by cattle, sheep, or horses. The Bloodhound has been crossed on nearly all of the sporting breeds, and doing so improves their voices as well as their power of scent. The chief points to look for in the selection of Bloodhound puppies at from two to four months old, and even afterward, are: Great length of head, narrowness of skull, great depth and squareness of foreface, big nostrils, long ears set low, great bone, and short back. The following description of the Bloodhound has been adopted by the Association of Bloodhound Breeders: GENERAL CHARACTER.—The Bloodhound pos- sesses in a most marked degree every point and characteristic of those dogs which hunt together by scent (Sagaces). He is very powerful, and stands over more ground than is usual with hounds of other breeds. The skin is thin to the touch and extremely loose, this being more especially noticeable about the head and neck, where it hangs in deep folds. Heicut.—The mean average height of adult dogs is 26 inches, and of adult bitches 24 inches. Dogs usually vary from 25 inches to 27 inches, and bitches from 23 inches to 2§ inches; but in either case the greater height is to be preferred, provided that character and quality are also combined. WeicHtT.—The mean average weight of aduit dogs in fair condition is 90 pounds, and of adult §2 SCENTING HOUNDS bitches 80 pounds. Dogs attain the weight of 110 pounds, bitches 100 pounds. The greater weights are to be preferred, provided (as in the case of height) that quality and proportions are also combined. Expression.—The expression is noble and digni- fied, and characterized by solemnity, wisdom, and power. TEMPERAMENT.—In temperament he is extremely affectionate, neither quarrelsome with companions nor with other dogs. His nature is somewhat shy and equally sensitive to kindness or correction by his master. Heap.—The head is narrow in proportion to its length, and long in proportion to the body, tapering but slightly from the temples to the end of the muzzle, thus (when viewed from above and in front) having the appearance of being flattened at the sides, and of being nearly equal in width throughout its entire length. In profile the upper outline of the skull is nearly in the same plane as that of the fore- face. The length from end of nose to stop (midway between the eyes) should be not less than that from stop to back of occipital protuberance (peak). The entire length of head from the posterior part of the occipital protuberance to the end of muzzle should be 12 inches or more in dogs, and 11 inches or more in bitches. SKULL.—-The skull is long and narrow, with the occipital peak very pronounced. The brows are not prominent, although, owing to the deep-set eyes, they may have that appearance. oe) THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK Forerace.—The foreface is long, deep, and of even width throughout, with square outline when seen in profile. Eyes.—The eyes are deeply sunk in the orbits, the lids assuming a lozenge or diamond shape in consequence of the lower lids being dragged down and everted by the heavy flews. The eyes corre- spond with the general tone of color of the animal, varying from deep hazel to yellow. The hazel color is, however, to be preferred, although very seldom seen in red-and-tan hounds. Ears.—The ears are thin and soft to the touch, extremely long, set very low, and fall in graceful folds, the lower parts curling inward and_ back- ward. WrinkKLE.— The head is furnished with an amount of loose skin, which in nearly every position appears superabundant, but more particularly so when the head is carried low; the skin then falls into loose, pendulous ridges and folds, especially over the fore- head and sides of the face. Nostrits.—The nostrils are large and open. Lips, Frews, anpD Dewtap.—In front the lips fall squarely, making a right angle with the upper line of the foreface; while behind they form deep, hanging flews and, being continued into the pendant folds of loose skin about the neck, constitute the dewlap, which is very pronounced. These char- acters are found, though in a less degree, in the bitch. Neck, SHOULDERS, AND CuHest.—The neck is long, the shoulders muscular, and well sloped back- 54 SCENTING HOUNDS ward; the ribs are well sprung, and the chest well let down between the forelegs, forming a deep keel. Lecs anD Freet.—The forelegs are straight and large in bone, with elbows squarely set; the feet strong and well knuckled up; the thighs and second thighs (gaskins) are very muscular; the hocks well bent and let down and squarely set. Back anD Loin.—The back and loins are strong, the latter deep and slightly arched. STERN.—The stern is long and tapering, and set on rather high, with a moderate amount of hair underneath. Gair.—The gait is elastic, swinging, and free, the stern being carried high, but not too much curled over the back. Cotor.—The colors are black-and-tan, red-and- tan, and tawny; the darker colors being sometimes interspersed with lighter or badger-colored hair, and sometimes flecked with white. A small amount of white is permissible on chest, feet, and tip of stern. THE OTTERHOUND The Otterhound is one of the oldest of sporting breeds, and no attempt will be made to indicate their ancestry. In general form they are not unlike a Bloodhound, with something in the shape of the skull and jaw, curve of throat, and texture of the coat that suggests the Dandie Dinmont. They are a rugged breed. Everything about them conveys the impression of usefulness, and they are capable 53 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK of coping with as many different conditions as any other breed of dog. They have also been used in the creation of other breeds, and the Airedale in particular undoubtedly owes his water-loving traits to a touch of the Otterhound. The early Otter- hounds were said to have been much smaller in size than those of the present day. There are no packs in this country, but in England otter hunting is termed the queen of summer sports, and 1s in fact the only form of chase that may be followed during the summer months. It is good sport, for the quarry is a wily, resourceful animal, with haunts of its own choosing, with the odds always in its favor. It is also engaged in during the best days of the year when Nature and the weather are to be found at their finest. The general points to look for in the selection of Otterhound puppies are those of Bloodhounds with a dense coat. The points for which the Otterhound should be bred are: A head resembling that of a Bloodhound, but flatter and harder, with a long, narrow forehead; dark eyes which are sunken and showing the haw; black nostrils and rough-haired muzzle, with full, hanging lips and large, thin, pendulous ears, well coated with coarse hair, but with no tendency to feather. The neck should be throaty; the chest deep rather than wide; the back strong, long, and straight, and the ribs deep; rather loose but strong, powerful, sloping shoulders; elbows well let down. Perfectly straight legs and muscular thighs are in- 56 SCENTING HOUNDS dispensable. Formerly the feet were large and well webbed with firm, hard soles, but of late years Otter- hounds have been bred with the cat feet of Fox- hounds. The stern should be carried in a sloping position, and should be well coated with hair and tapering. The coat should be dense and of fair length. Otterhounds should be large, and are of several colors, brown, tan, and grizzle being the commonest seen, but grizzle-brown, white and cream-buff, black-tan, and cream-tan are all found. Height for dog should be not less than 25 inches, and for bitches not less than 23 inches. In general appearance they should be large, rugged, and sym- metrical, fuli of hound character, with a look of great endurance and determination. THE FOXHOUND It has been claimed that the Foxhound is the most perfect member of his race, and that no dog equals him in beauty of conformation, nose, and courage. However that may be, more time and money have been spent upon them than on any other breed. The Foxhound is said to be the result of a cross between the Bloodhound and the Greyhound. They have been recognized as a distinct breed, however, for nearly three centuries. At the present time in this country there are two distinct types of Fox- hounds—the American and the English. The Eng- lish hound is larger and heavier-boned than his American cousin. English breeders have established 57 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK a high standard of excellence as to size, conforma- tion, general symmetry, beauty of form and style, but this has been done at the expense of nose, speed, endurance, and fox sense. The English hound is more satisfactory to hunt clubs in the East, where the majority hunt to ride, for English dogs are better trained and broken, more evenly matched as to speed, and not fast enough to get away from the rider. They also pre- sent a more pleasing appearance to the eye. The American hound is descended from hounds brought to this country in pre-Revolutionary days by the sport-loving gentry of Virginia, Maryland, and Carolina, who bred them on purely utilitarian lines, and succeeded in producing a family of dogs which admirably filled the purpose for which they were desired, and which are now scattered all over the United States. The American hound lacks the uniform size and the regular markings of the English hound. They are lighter in bone and muscle, but far excel them in brains and fox sense. Their noses are keener, and they will strike out boldly and search the likely place for the fox, and will then drive them faster and harder and give tongue with sweeter voices than their English rivals. Snipiness, coarse skull, cow hocks, flat sides, un- straight forelegs, and open feet are unpardonable faults in a Foxhound. The chief points to look for in the selection of Foxhound puppies at from two to four months old 58 SCENTING HOUNDS and after, are: A long, level head, big nostrils, square muzzle, great bone, deep chest, short »back. The American Foxhound standard and value of points: | Heap.—The skull should be fairly long, slightly domed at the occiput, with cranium broad and full. Fars.—Ears set on moderately low, long, reach- ing, when drawn out, nearly, if not quite, to the end of the nose; fine in texture, fairly broad, with almost entire absence of erectile power, setting close to the head, with the forward edge slightly inturned to the cheek; rounded at tip. Eyes.—Eyes large, set well apart, soft and hound- like; expression gentle and pleading; of a brown or hazel color. Muzzte.—Muzzle of fair length, straight and square cut, the stop moderately defined. Jaws.—Level; lips free from flews; nostrils large and open. Derecrs.—A very flat skull, narrow across the top; excess of dome; eyes small, sharp, and terrier- like, or prominent and protruding; muzzle long and snipy, cut away decidedly below the eyes, or very short. Roman nosed or upturned, giving a dish- face expression. Ears short, set on high, or with a tendency to rise above the point of origin. Bopy, Neck, anp THroat.—Neck rising free and light from the shoulders, strong in substance, yet not loaded, of medium length. The throat clean and free from folds of skin; a slight wrinkle below the angle of the jaw, however, may be allowable. 59 THE COMPLETE DOG BUOK Derects.—A thick, short, cloddy neck, carried on a line with the top of the shoulders. Throat show- ing dewlap and folds of skin to a degree termed “throatiness.’’ SHOULDERS, CHEST, AND Rrps.—Shoulders slop- ing, clean, muscular, not heavy or loaded, convey- ing the idea of freedom of action with activity and strength. Chest should be deep for lung space, narrower in proportion to depth than the English hound, 28 inches in a 23-inch hound being good. Well sprung ribs; back ribs should extend well back; a three-inch flank allowing springiness. Derecrs.—Straight, upright shoulders; chest pro- portionately wide or with lack of depth; flat ribs. Back anpD Loin.—Back moderately long, mus- cular, and strong. Loin broad and slightly arched. Derects.—Very long or swayed or roached back; flat, narrow loin. ForELEGS AND FEET—Fore.ecs.—Straight, with fair amount of bone; pasterns short and straight. Freetr.—Fox-like; pad full and hard; well arched toes; strong nails. Derects.—Out at elbows; knees knuckled over forward or bent backward. Forelegs crooked. Feet long, open, or spreading. Hires, Tuicus, HInpLEGs, aND FEET—HIPs anpD TuicHs.—Strong and well muscled, giving abund- ance of propelling power; stifles strong and well let down; hocks firm, symmetrical, and moderately bent; feet close and firm. 60 SCENTING HOUNDS Derects.—A long tail; teapot curve or inclined forward from propelling power; open feet. TaiL.—Set moderately high; carried gaily, with slight curve, but not turned forward over the back. It should have a good brush. Derects.—A long tail; teapot curve or inclined forward from the root; rat tail with absence of brush. Coat.—A close, hard, hound coat of medium length. Derecrs.—A short, thin coat or of a soft quality. Heicut.—Dogs should not be under twenty-one nor over twenty-four inches; bitches should not be under twenty nor over twenty-three inches, measured across the back at the point of the withers, the dog standing in a natural position with his feet well under him. CoLtor.—Any true hound color. GENERAL APPEARANCE.—A typical hound, solid and strong, with the wear-and-tear look of the dog that can last in the chase and follow his quarry to the death. VALUE oF Points.—Skull, §; ears, 10; eyes, 5; muzzle, 5; neck, 5; chest and shoulders, 15; back, loins and ribs, 15; forelegs, 10; hips, thighs, and hind- Beene “cet, 10; coat, §; stern, 5;. Total, 100, THE HARRIER There was a time when the Harrier was a distinct breed of dogs used in England to hunt the hare, and there exists to-day an Association of Master Harriers who keep a Stud Book and have done b 61 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK everything they could to keep up a distinct strain. Their efforts in a way, however, have proven in vain, for it is the usual practice in making up a pack of Harriers to simply go to Foxhound kennels, choose a number of undersized Foxhounds, and call them Harriers. If the pack is to be hunted on foot, they will do very well, if averaging 16 inches at the shoulder. If they are to be followed on horseback, 20 to 22 inches is a more popular size. For these reasons the Harriers, while resembling the Foxhound in many points, lack the uniformity in size and type that distinguishes that breed. There are packs of Har- riers that will average in weight as low as 40 or 45 pounds; others run up to 70 or 7§ pounds. They also vary in appearance, some as a result of crosses to that breed, resemble the Beagle in type and character, and there are other old packs that take after the Bloodhound. Some are low-set and sturdy, others light and racy; consequently there is no established type. There are, however, certain leading features common to all, and these are: Long heads, free from “stop; square muzzles; sloping shoulders; straight forelegs; round, catlike feet; short backs; well-sprung ribs; strong loins; sound hindquarters, with well-bent stifles. Height about 18 inches, weight 56 pounds, and any hound color. 62 SCENTING HOUNDS THE BEAGLE These deservedly popular little dogs are the loveliest of the hound family. They are the merriest little fellows imaginable, shrewd workmen, with the keenest of noses and the most musical of voices. They are used in hunting rabbits, either singly or in packs of five or ten couples. Although pretty and affectionate enough to make the sweetest of pets, they never forget that their true mission in life is to run the rabbit, and never are they more appreciated than when their bell-like melodious voices open up upon the trail. As the country has settled up and feathered game been exterminated, lovers of field sports who have heretofore devoted their time in the field to bird shooting over setters and pointers, have been obliged to discard their bird dogs in favor of the little hounds, for even in the immediate vicinity of the large cities one can usually find rabbits plentiful enough ‘to furnish good sport. | The origin of the Beagle is lost in obscurity, but it is quite probable that he was evolved from the Foxhound by selecting the smallest specimens and breeding them together until the proper size was arrived at. The typical Beagle is designated in some standards as a miniature Foxhound. This is a mistake. He is a distinct breed, although having many points in common with all hounds, such as short back, compact body, straight legs, round feet, powerful loins, and nicely-placed shoulders. The 63 THE COMPLETE DOG BOO true Beagle head has a skull free from coarseness, but with plenty of room; a soft, pleading eye; wide and large nostrils; deep, pendulous lips, and thin, long, low-set ears. It is always difficult to get such a head on a perfect body and legs. In color, the blue mottle is very typical and greatly admired, but black, tan-and-white, black-and-tan, lemon-and- white, or any other hound color is perfectly allow- able. The limit of height for the Beagle is 16 inches; the Pocket Beagle should not exceed 10 inches, and specimens of 8 inches are sometimes shown. In selecting Beagle puppies, look for a compact body, straight forelegs, a roomy head with well- defined stop, and a square muzzle. In buying a Beagle don’t take one which is much over 14 inches at the shoulder. Don’t get one which is too much like a Foxhound. A good Beagle has the same lines, but is cobbier and has not such a clean-cut throat. Don’t take a second look at a Beagle which is light in bone, out at elbows, or weak in the ankles. Don’t select one which has weak, splayed feet. Don’t take one with coarse, thick ears, set on high. The following is the standard of points laid down by the Beagle Club: Heap.—Of fair length, powerful without being coarse; skull domed, moderately wide, with an in- dication of peak; stop well defined, muzzle not snipy, and lips well flewed. Nose,—Black, broad, and nostrils well expanded. 64 SCENTING HOUNDS Eyes.—Brown, dark hazel, or hazel, not deep-set or bulgy, and with a mild expression. Fars.—Long, set on low, fine in texture, and hanging in a graceful fold close to the cheek. Necx.—Moderately long, slightly arched, and throat showing some dewlap. SHOULDERS.—Clean and slightly sloping. Bopy.—Short between the couplings; well let down in chest; ribs fairly well sprung and well ribbed up, with powerful and not tucked up loins. HinDQuarTERS.—Very muscular about the thighs; stifles and hocks well bent, and hocks well let down. ForELEGS.—Quite straight, well under the dog, of good substance, and round in bone. Frret.—Round, well knuckled up, and strongly padded. SreErnN.—Of moderate length, set on high, thick, and carried gaily, but not curled over the back. Cotor.—Any recognized hound color. Coat.—Smooth variety: smooth, very dense, and not too fine or short. Rough variety: very dense and wiry. Heicut.—-Not exceeding 16 inches. GENERAL APPEARANCE.—A compactly-built hound without coarseness, conveying the impression of great stamina and vivacity. CLassIFIcaTion.—It is recommended that Beagles should be divided at shows into rough and smooth, with classes for “Beagles not exceeding 16 inches and over 12 inches,” and “Beagles not exceeding 12 inches.” 65 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK VALUE OF PointTs.—Head, 20; ears, 10; eyes and expression, 10; body, 15; hindquarters, 10; legs and feet.) 203; stern.) 6s coat, 1O). hota rae: THE BASSET HOUND These quaint-appearing dogs are of very ancient descent, and have existed in France in exactly the same type that they present to-day for centuries. They are essentially hunting dogs, possess mar- velous powers of scent and wonderful voices, their clear, bell-like notes surpassing in sweetness those of any other hound, and when once heard are never forgotten. For hunting on foot they are claimed to be su- perior to Beagles, their short, crooked legs almost incapable of becoming tired. Their natural pace is about seven miles an hour. Basset Hounds have the best of tempers. In fact, their dispositions seem to be almost too mild and inoffensive for a sporting dog, although when trained to follow wounded game, for which purpose they are most useful, they take up a trail with the utmost keenness and will never give up until it 1s brought to bay, when they give tongue fiercely, but show no desire to go into close quarters. The late Mr. Dalziel has said of this breed: “Basset Hounds have excellent tongues for their size. They are willing workers, and when in good training and condition will hunt every day and thrive on it. They are clever at their work, and when game is missed when breaking covert, often 66 SCENTING HOUNDS succeed in ‘ringing’ it back within gunshot. As a breed the Basset Hound is highly prized, being, per- haps, the purest in existence in France. They bring large prices and many could not be bought on any terms. They are employed in hunting roebuck, deer, wild boars, wolves, foxes, hares, and rabbits, but where trained to enter on only one species of game will keep to it exclusively. They move slowly and allow plenty of time for the shooter to take his vantage station, hence their popularity in the estimation of shooters. They work best in small woods, furze fields, and the like, for they do not drive their game fast enough for work in the large forests. The latter are usually cut by streams and deep ravines set with rocks and boulders, which the short, crooked-legged hound surmounts with great difficulty, and while eventually they will bring their game out, the long time which they take to do so would seriously tell against the sport. It is therefore more practical to run them in the smaller coverts, where their voices can readily be heard through the hunt, directing the shooter to the proper posts of vantage. In build the Basset is long in the Hee and is very low on his pins; so much so that when hunting he literally drags his long ears on the ground. He is the slowest of hounds, and his value as such cannot be overestimated. His style of hunting is peculiar insomuch that he will have his own way. Each hound tries for himself, and if one of them finds and “‘says” so, the others will not blindly 67 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK follow him and give tongue simply because he does, as some hounds accustomed to work in packs are apt to do. On the contrary, they are slow to ac- knowledge the alarm given, and will investigate the matter for themselves. Thus under covert Bassets following a trail go Indian file, and each speaks to the line according to his own sentiments on the point, irrespective of what the others may think about it. In this manner it is not uncommon to see the little hounds when following a mazy track cross each other’s route without paying any atten- tion to one another; in short, each of them works as if he were alone. This style I attribute to their slowness, to their extremely delicate powers of scent, and to their innate stubborn confidence in their own powers. Nevertheless, it is a fashion which has its drawbacks, for should the individual hound hit on separate tracks of different animals, unless at once stopped and put together on the same one, each will follow its own find, and let the shooter or shooters do his or their best. That is why a shooter who is fond of that sort of sport rarely owns more than one or two of these hounds. One is enough, two may be handy in difficult cases, but more would certainly entail confusion, precisely because each one of them will rely only on the evi- dence of his own senses. In selecting puppies, look for length of head and a narrow skull, with prominent occipital bone; fore- face deep and square, ears long and low-set, long body, deep chest, big quarters, and plenty of bone. 68 SCENTING HOUNDS The chief points to look for in the selection of Basset Hound puppies at two to four months old and after, are: Very long head; narrow skull, show- ing occipital bone well developed; deep, square fore- face; long, loose ears, set on low; great bone; long body; big quarters; deep chest. The following description will act as a guide to breeders and exhibitors: GENERAL APPEARANCE.—That of a large hunting hound of classic mien, with the Bloodhound type of head, the dog being merely dwarfed in the legs. Heap.—Long, very narrow, with occiput well developed, and showing no perceptible “stop” or indentation below the temples; muzzle deep, square at the end, and with heavy-hanging flews. Eyes.—-Rather small, sunken, and almond-shape, showing the haw with a soft pellucid expression and reposeful dignity. Fars.—Very long, set on low, soft and velvety, and folding as in the Bloodhound. Necx.—Muscular and strong, but free from coarse- ness, with dewlaps well defined. Bopy.—Long, large, flat on back; ribs well sprung, and loins broad and powerful, with strong and powerful quarters. SHOULDERS.—Sloping and laid well back. Cuest.—Deep, not broad, showing breast bone well developed. Tatt.—Moderate in length, carried in sickle fashion and slightly “feathered” or fringed with longer hair on the underneath side. 69 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK Lecs.—The forelegs should be short, crooked at the knees, with large, strong, broad feet, turning slightly out. The dog must be perfectly sound on his legs—that is to say, he must not “knuckle over,” which is a fatal blemish. He can scarcely have too much bone, owing to the abnormally large body his limbs have to support. Coat.—In the smooth variety the coat should be short and dense, the skin thick, yet free from coarse- ness; on the contrary, a certain amount of “quality” should be manifest, indicating high breeding. In the rough variety the coat should be about an inch and a half in length, and harsh to the touch. Cotor.—The color should be distributed in patches upon a white body, as in the Foxhound, and the same colors are admissible, viz., black-and- tan, hare-pied, or any recognized hound color. VaLuE oF Points.—Head (skull, eyes, muzzle, occiput, flews), 20; ears, 10; neck, dewlap, chest, and shoulders, 10; forelegs and feet, 15; back, loins, and quarters, 10; stern, 5; coat and skin, 1@;\color and markings, 10; character and symmetry, 10. Total, 100. THE DACHSHUND These long, low, and peculiarly-shaped dogs are the national dogs of Germany. They are classified with the hounds, but in reality are terriers, as their work is almost entirely underground. They derive their name from the fact that in 72 SCENTING HOUNDS their native land they are used to draw the dachs, an animal similar to our badger. Their long, low structure, powerful legs, strong claws, sharp teeth, muscular jaws, and fierce fighting spirit admirably adapts them for underground work of this char- acter. They are also used in following the fox, and will track the fox or badger to his haunts and fight him in his burrow. They have fair noses, and are sometimes trained to follow wounded deer. At- tempts have been made to use them for rabbit dogs, but they are not such capable workers as either hounds or Beagles, lacking in both nose and intelligence. There is nothing aristocratic about the Dachs- hund’s appearance, and they have never become popular in America. The chief points to look for in the selection of Dachshund puppies at from two to four months old and after, are: A long, level head; small eye; ears set rather low; long body, showing distinct arch in loin; deep chest; great bone; short legs. The following standard is used by most American and British judges: GENERAL APPEARANCE.— The dog should be long, low, and graceful, not cloddy. Heap.—Long, level, and narrow; no stop. SKULL.—Long and narrow; peak well developed. Eyes.—Intelligent and somewhat small; follow body in color. Jaws.—Strong, level, and square to the muzzle. TreTH.—Canines recurvent. qi THE COMPLETE DOG EOOKR Ears.—Long, broad, and soft, set on low and well back; carried close to the head. Cuest.—Deep and narrow; breast bone prom- inent. Loin.—Well arched, long, and muscular. Bopy.—Length from back of head to root of stern, 214 times the height at shoulder; fore ribs well sprung; back ribs very short; quarters very muscular. ForeLecs.—Very short and strong in bone, well crooked, not standing over; elbows well clothed with muscle, turned neither in nor out. HinpDLecs.—Smaller in bone and higher. Fret.—Large, round, and strong, with thick pads and strong nails; hind feet smaller. The dog must stand true—z. e., equally on all parts of the foot. STERN.—Long and strong, flat at root, tapering to the tip; hair on under side coarse; carried low except when excited. Coat.—Dense, short, and strong. Cotor.—Any color. Nose to follow body color; much white objectionable. Sxin.—Thick, loose, supple, and in great quantity. HEIGHT aT SHOULDER.—From 7 to g inches. WeicutT.—Dogs, about 21 pounds; bitches, about 18 pounds. 72 ‘satddnd pur o8ury] pur YS¥ AA *S49A99.11¢ ‘spunoyxoy paiq UvITLISUTYy ‘ad A} Suryso\ ‘a[sevog uvowowy ’ e F Z i | : , 7 - ba : - : — = : * . = ad bi « > : f * ; - < —* i Ss - Fi Ps SHEPHERD DOGS OLD ENGLISH SHEEP DOG Tue Old English Sheep Dog is a highly intelli- gent, picturesque, affectionate, and useful member of the pastoral class, resembling in important par- ticulars of conformation, appearance, and character the herd dogs of continental countries from Spain to Russia. They all undoubtedly trace their origin at some early period to a common ancestry. The continental dogs were as a rule larger and fiercer than the Sheep Dogs of to-day, and it is probable that the early progenitors of the breed, who lived in a time when it was necessary to defend the flocks against bears and wolves, were larger, stronger, and fiercer than those we have now. The herding instincts of the Sheep Dog are deeply seated, and as stock dogs they are unequaled. They are also said to make capital retrievers for sports- ~ men, being easily controlled, soft-mouthed, good water dogs, and stay at heel by inclination. They learn readily, and are always anxious to please their masters. There is practically no limit to what they can be taught to do, and their sphere of usefulness is a wide one. There is a popular idea that this breed is tailless. This is a mistake. The tail is usually amputated, the custom originating with the drovers of England. According to law, dogs used for working purposes ta THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK were exempt from taxation, and they adopted the docking of the tail to distinguish dogs which came under the ruling. There will be found in many litters of Sheep Dogs one or two puppies without tails, while all the other puppies have them. These cases are accounted for on the ground of inherited effect, for it is claimed by Darwin that a continued process of breeding from animals which suffer dock- ing will produce puppies that are natural bob-tails. The chief points to look for in the selection of Old English Sheep Dog puppies at from two to four months old and after, are: Great size, big, massive heads, and heavy muzzles; short, round bodies, deep chest, and great bone, with as much coat as possible. The following is the Old English Sheep Dog Club’s standard: SKULL.—Capacious, and rather squarely formed, giving plenty of room for brain power. The parts over the eyes should be well arched, and the whole well covered with hair. Jaw.—Fairly long, strong, square, and truncated; the stop should be defined to avoid a Deerhound face. Eyes.—Dark or wall eyes are to be preferred. NosEe.—Always black, large, and capacious. TEETH.—Strong and large, evenly placed, and level in opposition. Ears.—Small, and carried flat to side of head, coated moderately. Lecs.—The forelegs should be dead straight, with 74 SHEPHERD DOGS plenty of bone, removing the body a medium height from the ground, without approaching leggi- ness; well coated all round. FEET.—Small, round toes; well arched, and pads thick and hard. Ta1_.—Puppies requiring docking must have an appendage left of from 1/4 inches to 2 inches, and the operation performed within a week from birth, preferably within four days. NrEcK AND SHouLDERS.—The neck should be fairly long, arched gracefully, and well coated with hair; the shoulders sloping and narrow at the points, the dog standing lower at the shoulder than at the loin. Bopy.—Rather short and very compact; ribs well sprung and brisket deep and capacious. The loin should be very stout and gently arched, while the hindquarters should be round and muscular, and with well let down hocks, and the hams densely coated with a thick, long jacket in excess of any other part. | Coat.—Profuse, and of good, hard texture; not straight, but shaggy and free from curl. The under- coat should be a waterproof pile when not removed by grooming or season. Cotor.—Any shade of gray, grizzle, blue, or blue merled, with or without white markings, or in re- verse; any shade of brown or sable to be considered distinctly objectionable and not to be encouraged. Heicut.—Twenty-two inches and upward for dogs, slightly less for bitches. Type, symmetry, 75 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK and character are of the greatest importance, and on no account to be sacrificed to size alone. GENERAL APPEARANCE.—A strong, compact-look- ing dog of great symmetry, absolutely free from legginess or weaselness, profusely coated all over, very elastic in its gallop, but in walking or trotting he has a characteristic ambling or pacing move- ment, and his bark should be loud, with a peculiar pot casse ring in it. Taking him all round, he is a thick-set, muscular, able-bodied dog, with a most intelligent expression, free from all Poodle or Deer- hound character. VALuE or Pointrs.—Head, 5; eyes, 5; coleneae: ears, §; body, loins, and hindquarters, 20; jaw, 10; nose, 5; teeth, 5; legs, 10; neck and shoulders, 10; enat; 15.) Dotal, 100. THE COLLIE The life story of the Collie is the history of pastoral life, for from the first day that man herded flocks he had a dog to help him. There is a similarity in character and appearance between the sheep and cattle dogs of all countries, which points to their com- mon origin, while the cunning and outward look of all indicate their descent from the wild dogs of nature. The Collie or Sheep Dog in all countries is con- sidered superior to other dogs in instinct and in- telligence, and his countenance discloses sagacity, alert eagerness, and devotion to his master. There is a great difference between the Collie of the bench shows and the old working Collie of the Highlands. 76 SHEPHERD DOGS: -- The Collie of the bench shows is a fancier’s creation; a more graceful and beautiful animal does not exist. He was produced from the old working type, but remote crossing and careful selection continued for many years has so radically changed him that he is now almost a breed of his own. The working qualities of the bench show Collie have been’so sadly neglected that they are all but lost. Certainly they are not to be compared in this respect with the Collie of the hills, bred on purely utilitarian lines. In appearance, however, the bench show Collie is a much handsomer and more attrac- tive type, for the working dog is on the nondescript order. The latter vary in size and color; some are smooth coated, some are rough; some have prick ears, others half-dropped or drop, while many have what is known as a watch eye. Some of the best workmen will weigh under forty pounds. Occa- sionally you will see among the shepherds large, handsome black, white, and tan specimens with fair coats, but more will be all black in color, smooth coated and small in size. The most popular among the Scottish shepherds is the small black-and-white type with medium coats. THE COLLIE (ROUGH COAT) The Rough-coated Collie is a purely Scottish-bred dog, and, like all varieties of sheep and cattle dogs, used in pastoral life and agricultural pursuits, is of great antiquity. Indeed, it is generally assumed that of all the varieties of the domesticated dog, the . 77 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK Collie or Sheep Dog is the oldest, and probably the one variety from which all breeds have been evolved. This idea has doubtless arisen from the fact that the Collie most resembles the wild dog, and that there is a great similarity in form and character between the sheep and cattle dogs of all countries, which points to a common origin. The little differences may be accounted for by the variations in char- acter of the different countries which call for dogs somewhat different in build, but all are more or less of the same type and character—the Dutch, Ger- man, Belgian, French, Spanish, etc. The chief points to look for in the selection of Collie puppies at from two to four months old and after, are: Great length of head, which should be level and wedge-shaped, but should not run into coarseness or width at the base of the skull, which should be narrow. Ears small; body short and round; tail short; forelegs straight. The biggest puppies are apt to be the best if they are not coarse, but pos- sess the desired points. The foregoing applies to both roughs and smooths, the latter requiring to be very smooth in coat, short but dense. The more coat the roughs have the better. The following are the standard description and points as laid down by the Collie Club for the two varieties: Heap.—Skull flat, moderately wide between the ears, and gradually tapering to the eyes. There should be but a very slight prominence of the eye- brows, and a very slight depression at the top. 78 SHEPHERD DOGS The proper width of skull necessarily depends upon the combined length of skull and muzzle, for what would be a thick or a too broad skull in one dog is not necessarily so in another of the same actual girth, but better supported by length of muzzle. It must also be considered in conjunction with the size of the dog and should incline to light- ness, accompanied by cleanness of outline of cheeks and jaws. A heavy-headed dog lacks the bright, alert, and full-of-sense look so much to be desired. On the other hand, the attenuated head is most frequently seen with small Terrier eyes, which show no character. Muzzle should be of fair length and tapering to the nose, which should be black; it must not show weakness or appear snipy. The teeth of good size and even. English standard says, ‘Mouth the least bit overshot,” but this is by no means desir- able, and if at all exaggerated should be treated as a malformation. Eyres.—There being no “brow” in which to set the eyes, they are necessarily placed obliquely, the upper portion of the muzzle being dropped or chiseled to give them the necessary forward look- out. They should be of medium size, never showing too light in comparison with the color of coat, nor with a yellow ring. Expression full of intelligence, with a bright “‘What-is-it?’ look when on the alert or listening to orders. This is of course largely contributed to by the throwing up of the ears which accompanies the quz vive attitude. £9 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOE Ears.—The ears can hardly be too small if car- ried properly. If too small they are apt to be thrown quite erect or prick-eared; and if large they either cannot be properly lifted off the head or, if lifted, they show out of proportion. When in repose the ears are folded lengthwise and thrown back into the frill; on the alert they are thrown up and drawn closer together on the top of the skull. They should be carried about three-quarters erect. A prick- eared dog should be penalized. So much attention having of late been given to securing very high car- riage of ears, it has resulted in reaching the other extreme in some cases, and it 1s now necessary to guard against that. Necx.—Should be muscular and of sufficient length to give the dog a fine upstanding appear- ance, and show off the frill, which should be very full. Bopy.—Rather long, ribs well rounded, chest deep but of fair breadth behind the shoulders, which should have good slope. Loin slightly arched, showing power. Lecs.—Forelegs straight and muscular, with a fair amount of bone, the forearm moderately fleshy; pasterns showing flexibility without weakness; the hindlegs less fleshy, very sinewy, and hocks and stifles well bent. Feet oval in shape, soles well padded, and the toes arched and close together. Tatt.—Moderately long, carried low when the dog is quiet, the end having an upward “swirl,” when excited, carried gaily but not over the back. 80 ‘c) yny xe uIdoyey ArnqMaN ‘sanTg X2 039A “YD ‘032A prigantg aucisdary :21T[0D = BEPC “YD FHT HH YOUS ‘sdoq dasys ysi[3uq PIO ; SHEPHERD DOGS Coat.—This is a very important point. The coat, except on the head and legs, should be abun- dant, the outer coat harsh to the touch, the inner coat soft and furry and very close; so close that it is dificult on parting the hair to see the skin. The mane and frill should be very abundant. The mask or face smooth, the forelegs slightly feathered, the hindlegs below the hocks smooth. Hair on tail very profuse, and on the hips long and bushy. Cotor.—Immaterial, though a richly-colored or nicely-marked dog has undoubtedly a considerable amount of weight with judges. The black-and-tan with white frill and collar, or the still more showy sable with perfect white markings will generally win, other things being equal. SizE.—Dogs, 22 to 24 inches at the shoulder; bitches, 20 to 22 inches. Weight—dogs, 45 to 60 pounds; bitches, 40 to 50 pounds. Fxpression.—This is one of the most important points in considering -the relative value of Collies. “Expression,” like the term “character,” is difficult to define in words. It 1s not a fixed point as in color, weight, or height, and is something the uninitiated can only properly understand by optical illustration. It is the combined product of the shape of the skull and muzzle, the set, size, shape, and color of the eyes, and the position and carriage of the ears. GENERAL CuHarAcTER.—A lithe, active dog, with no useless timber about him, his deep chest showing strength, his sloping shoulders and well-bent hocks indicating speed, and his face high intelligence. SI THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK As a whole he should present an elegant and pleas- ing outline, quite distinct from any other breed, and show great strength and activity. Fautts.—Domed skull, high, peaked occipital bone, heavy, pendulous ears, or the other extreme, prick ears, short tail or tail curled over the back. The following scale of points are those adopted by the Collie clubs of England. The club does not recommend point judging, the figures merely show- ing on which “properties” the greater stress is laid: VaLuE oF Poinrs.—Head and expression, 15; ears, 10; neck and shoulders, 10; legs and feet, 15; hindquarters, 10; back and loins, 10; brush, 5; coat with frill, 20; size, 5. Total, 100. THE SMOOTH-COATED COLLIE The Smooth-coated Collie is or should be an ex- act replica of his rough-coated brother in every detail and particular, but with a short, dense, double coat which looks smooth to the eye, but which is harsh and weather-resisting. The Smooth- coated Collie is an English edition of his Scotch cousin, and is doubtless a manufactured variety to a great extent, as seen to-day on the show bench, although a form of smooth Collie or Sheep Dog has been indigenous to the agricultural districts of England from time immemorial almost. The smooth Collie, as an all-around utility dog, probably cannot be excelled. His short, sleek, dense, weather-resisting coat is undoubtedly an ad- vantage to him over his rough brother in snowy 82 SHEPHERD DOGS weather, and is less cumbersome to carry. He is more difficult to breed to type because of his smooth coat, which lays bare an anatomy which a rough coat covers, and without which defects of body cannot be hidden in the smooth variety. The or- thodox color of the smooth is much the same as in the rough-coated variety. There also exists in Scotland a type known as the Bearded Collie. These dogs bear considerable re- semblance to the old English Sheep Dog. In fact, it is easy to imagine that the latter would assume the form and appearance of Bearded Collies if for a few generations they were bred for working pur- poses alone. The Bearded Collie is a hardy-looking dog with a very nice temper. They are capable of a good day’s work and can endure much cold and wet without discomfort. The head of a Bearded Collie has something about it which suggests the Dandie Dinmont, while they possess a dignity and grandeur which reminds one of the Deerhound, the Otterhound, and the majestic animals which inhabit mountainous countries. THE GERMAN SHEPHERD DOG The interest in this remarkable breed of dogs has developed so rapidly that we are gratified at being able to present this authoritative article by Jay Hall, one of the most successful exhibitors of the breed in this country: This native German breed resembling the wolf in general appearance is known throughout the world 83 THE ‘COMPLE LE DOG BOOK by many different names. Commonly called the Police Dog, by reason of the large number used in night patrol duty on the police force of German cities, it is known in England as the Alsatian Wolf Dog. It is often referred to as the Belgian Police Dog and as the French Police Dog. In America, prior to the entrance by the United States into the World War, it was known by its true name—the German Shepherd Dog. In 1g18 the American Kennel Club arbitrarily dropped the word “Ger- man,” naming the breed plainly “The Shepherd Dog.” The breed is known in Germany as the Deutscher Schaferhtind (or German Shepherd Dog), but when trained for police duty is designated as the Policei- hund or police dog. It has been stated that as early as Ig1I more than 400 police stations in Germany had been provided with specially-trained dogs of this species. Primarily a herding dog descended from the long- haired dogs of South Germany, he lends himself to training of varied character. A nose hunter, keen of scent, he makes an admirable trailer of man or game. In common with the Shepherd Dog of any race, he, by reason of- his close and constant com- panionship with man, is generally obedient and sagacious. His physical makeup adapts him to tireless sustained effort, and the breeders respon- sible for the fixed type that exists wisely provided for a combination that, while it preserves a certain beauty of outline, has lost nothing in usefulness as 84 SHEPHERD DOGS a working dog. The Shepherd has been found readily adapted to training both for Red Cross and police purposes, and has been used extensively in these fields chiefly by the Germans. In Germany the breed is sponsored by the Ger- man Shepherd Dog Club, an active organization with a membership of many thousands widely spread throughout the country. The Stud Book published by this club 1s a model of excellence. In fact, personally I have never seen a stud book of any breed of animals that was superior to it. It was founded in 1899. Six root stocks mark the beginning of the breed. No breed of dog has gained favor more quickly with the public than has this breed in America. From obscurity in 1904, when the breed was first introduced into the United States, to-day (1921) finds that the Shepherds benched run one, two, three in number at nearly all our more important shows. Perhaps the greatest misnomer, on the part of the uninformed public, of the true and natural disposi- tion of dogs of this breed is a natural result of the commonly given name “Police Dog.” By nature the Shepherd is quick, affectionate, intelligent, faithful, of fine mind and memory, devoted to its master, and zealous in his interest. It is these very attributes that constitute a fine groundwork for the training of certain of these dogs for police service. It is well then to consider that the true dog of the breed is a shepherd by type, and that only specialized 85 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK training transforms him to a police dog. As a police dog his fine basic characteristics are ac- centuated and developed to a point of usefulness for the particular work at hand. The idea of using dogs for civic protection is by no means new. Louis XI, who ruled in France early in the fifteenth century, provided the famous town of Mont St. Michel with a dog corps, and St. Malo, close by, was protected in a'similar manner. While it is generally recorded that the city of Ghent in Belgium was the first city to establish a systematic and regular school for the training of police dogs and putting them into local service after training them, it is claimed that the honor of introducing the modern police dog on the continent really belongs to Dr. Gerland, who introduced the practice at Hildesheim, Germany, early in 1896. During the five years that followed the experiment was taken up by practically every country in Europe, and several foreign countries, including Japan, sent representatives abroad to investigate the plan and methods. | In the training and instruction of these dogs for police duty they are taught to seize an object with- out seriously hurting it; to hunt for vagabonds and defend the uniforms; not to accept anything from strangers nor to be petted by them; to guard an object placed on the ground; to keep individuals at bay without biting until human help arrives, but to attack if necessary if flight is attempted; to follow through a house where dwellings or buildings re- 86 SHEPHERD DOGS quire searching; not to be afraid of firearms; to run into alleys, behind houses and outbuildings, and into many places where the human eye could not see unless provided with a light; to follow his master with or without leash at distances ranging to a maximum of 150 feet; to bark loudly to announce a find. These dogs are finally trained to respect and protect a police uniform, and seem instinctively to know the uniform. If a man attacks its master, the dog becomes furious and savage, and often jumps at the throat of the aggressor. After their training is completed and when they are not on active duty they remain in their kennels all day, seeing only the trainers who care for them, and as they are on duty throughout the night, they have no means of becoming familiar with the public. The first essential of training this breed is to inculcate absolute obedience. It has been found that the greater the intelligence of the dog the more difficult it is to teach them a routine. The dog’s own individuality is likely to assert itself. Rare discretion must be used by the skilled trainer. The following essentials are enumerated as nec- essary in their training for police use: A dog must be taught to give tongue when quarry is found or breaks from cover on a run, to curb its hunting in- stincts and stop abruptly at cry or whistle of com- mand. Where resistance is offered it 1s taught to leap at the wrist or throat of the culprit, and while prowling by itself to rout from bushes or shadows all marauders. 87 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK The dog’s early education for police service leads him to suspect all strangers. He cannot be in- timidated, coaxed, or lured. He will refuse all food when offered by strangers, even though he may be extremely hungry. A properly trained police dog is irreproachable in morals, mien, and manners. He will face pistol fire unflinchingly and leap sav- agely to attack. A well-trained dog will easily clear a seven-foot obstacle, and can broad-jump a small stream or creek twelve to fifteen feet across. The dog’s education enables him to ferret out hidden goods, to find coins that have been dropped; in fact, to search out every clue of the criminal that may be of service in leading to his eventual discovery and arrest. These dogs are quick to sense the presence of criminals with whom they have had previous contact, and have been known to pick men out of a crowd under these conditions. We would again forcefully call to the reader’s attention the fact that these characteristics are peculiar to those of the breed trained for this special duty or purpose. The well-bred Shepherd untrained for police use is an admirable companion, loyal, affectionate, well mannered, obedient and in no way savage or solitary. , The illustration reproduced is that of the Grand Champion of the Breed in America, 1920, Grand Champion Van Halls Rex Buckel. Listed below is the standard of the breed as es- tablished by the German Shepherd Dog Club (S. V. Munick, E. V.) in alliance with Specialty Clubs 88 iicpu erates Sissy nase ane American bred collie, Ch. Starbat. Police dog, Grand Champ, Vanhall’s Rex Buckel. SHEPHERD DOGS maintaining stud books as well as the Field Trial Alliance of the breeders’ associations of working dog breeds and also the Alliance with (P. H. Z.) (Police dog breeding). Translated from the German by Leo F. F. Wanner, of Hempstead, L. I. GENERAL APPEARANCE.—The German Shepherd is a medium-size dog. He is rather long in body, strong, and well muscled. He is so full of life that when at attention nothing can escape his sharp senses. The average height for dogs is 60 centimeters (24 inches), and for bitches between 55 and 58 centimeters (22 to 23% inches). The height is to be established with a standard laid alongside of the elbow and taken in a straight line from the top of shoulder blade to the ground; coat parted and pressed down so that the measurement will show only the actual height of the bone frame or structure of the dog. For the Shepherd Dog as a working dog the most desirable height is between 55 and about 64-65 centimeters (22 and about 26 inches). The working value of dogs above or below these heights is lessened. The traits and special characteristics are watch- fulness, courageous loyalty, strict honesty and ar- istocratic appearance, all forming a combination which makes the clean-bred German Shepherd an ideal companion and watch dog. It is desirable to try to improve his appearance, but nothing must be done which will in any way detract from his use- fulness. Heap.—Size of head should be in proportion to the 89 THE COMPLETE: DOG BOOK body, not plump; in appearance clean cut, medium wide between ears. Forehead seen from the front only very moderately arched, without or with only slightly indicated center furrow. Cheeks form a very slight curve to muzzle, without any promi- nence whatsoever at the front. The skull slopes in a slanting line without any abrupt stop at the fore- head, continuing into a cone-shaped, pointed, long, and dry muzzle. The muzzle is strong, the lips dry and tight, firmly fitting together; the bridge of the nose straight, very nearly following out the elongated line of the forehead. Jaws and teeth are very strong, teeth meeting in a scissors-like manner, sharply overlapping each other, but they must not be over or undershot. Ears.—Medium size, set high on the head, broad at the base and pointed at the tips. They are car- ried erect and turned to the front. Occasionally we find Collie or soft-eared dogs, but the erect ear is always desirable. The breeding of dogs with erect ears is desirable, although it is immaterial how a herding dog carries his ears. Trimmed and soft ears are to be discarded. Puppies and young dogs usually do not straighten their ears before the fourth or sixth month and sometimes even later. Eyes.—Medium size, almond-shaped, set a little obliquely and not protruding; color as dark as pos- sible. The expression should be lively, intelligent, and show distrust of strangers. Necx.—Strong, with well-developed muscles of gO SHEPHERD DOGS medium length, without any loose folds of skin. Carried high when excited, otherwise straight. Bopy.—Chest deep, but not too broad. Ribs flat. Stomach moderately tucked up. Back straight and strongly developed. The length of the body should exceed the shoulder height of the dog. Short-coupled and long-legged dogs should be dis- carded. The Shepherd Dog should never run wild. The handiness and elasticity required of a herding dog is attained by good angles at hindquarters, broad, powerful loin, long, sloping croup. Tatt.—Heavily coated, reaching the hock, and often forming a slight hook twisted to one side. At rest the tail hangs in a slight curve. When excited and in motion the curve is accentuated and the tail is raised, although it should never be lifted beyond a vertical line. The tail therefore should never be laid over the back, either straight or curled. It is natural that bob-tails should appear, but they should not be used for breeding. Docked tails are to be discarded. ForEQUARTERS.—Shoulders long and sloping, well muscled, and set on flat against the body. Legs straight viewed from every angle. Hinpquarters.—Leg broad, powerfully muscled; upper thigh quite long and viewed from the sides, set at an angle with the long lower thigh. Hock strong. Freret.—Round, short, compact, and arched. Pads very hard, nails short, strong, and generally dark in color. Dewclaws usually appear on the hind leg. gi THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK Dewclaws are not faults nor are they desirable points in the standard. They generally cause a spread action behind, also injuries, and therefore it is essential that they. be removed immediately after the puppies are whelped. Cotor.—Black, iron-gray, ash-gray, reddish-yel- low, reddish-brown (either solid color or with regular markings of reddish-brown to whitish-gray). Fur- thermore pure white, or white with dark patches intermingled (blue-red brindle), also dark brindle (black patches on gray, yellow, or light brown body), with lighter colored markings. The so- called wolf’s color (coloring of the dog in his wild state), white markings on chest and legs are per- mitted. The undercoat, except in black dogs, is always light in color. The color of a puppy can only be ascertained after his top coat comes in. Coat.—The following types are classified solely according to the texture of their coats: A.—The Smooth-Coated German Shepherd Dog. B.—The Rough-Coated or wire-haired German Shepherd Dog. C.—The Long-Coated German Shepherd Dog. A very close undercoat is characteristic of each of the three types. A.—The Smooth-Coated German Shepherd Dog: The top coat is very dense, each single hair straight, harsh, and lying close to the body. The head, in- cluding the inner ear, front of legs, and paws, covered with short hair, and the neck with longer and thicker hair. The fore and hind legs have a g2 SHEPHERD DOGS short feather extending to the pasterns and hock respectively. Length of coat varies; this accounts for the great variety of different length coats. Too short a coat is a fault. A smooth coat which is too long collects dirt, and usually means either a poor or no undercoat. B.—The Rough-Coated or Wire-Haired German Shepherd Dog: This type is very rare, especially clean-bred instances. The coat is generally shorter than that of the smooth-coated variety. The shorter haired parts of the smooth dog, such as head and legs, are, in the rough-coated dog, covered with still shorter wire hair. This wire hair also forms on the lips and eyes, more or less developed beard and eyebrows. Each single hair should be very stiff, hard, and wire-like to the touch, as in the rough-coated German Pinscher. The tail is without feather. In other respects the rough-coated dog corresponds to the smooth-coated type, with the exception of the muzzle, which in the former is a trifle broader and stronger. C.—The Long-Coated or Old German Type Shepherd Dog: This type is also growing scarce. They are still found in southern and eastern Ger- many as working dogs. As a rule they result from crossing the smooth and rough-coated types. The clean bred Old Type German Shepherd Dog is very scarce. The coat is thick, long, and tangled, rough to the touch. Hair of head falls to the side, partly covering the eyes, and forms a mustache as well as a goatee. The paws are long-coated and the tail q 93 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK bushy. In southern Germany they have medium- size, hanging ears. In northern Germany, par- ticularly in Hanover and Braunschweig, they are found with erect ears. The long-coated Shepherd Dog is generally all white in color. Fau.trs.—All physical defects which tend to lessen the utility and endurance, especially a com- bination of short back and legginess in a dog; built too coarse or too fine; weak or sway back, straight quarters as well as any point of the running gear which would affect length and evenness of stride, elasticity, and endurance. Furthermore, too short or too soft a coat and absence of undercoat; skull too coarse or lacking in depth. Muzzle too short or stumpy or too weak, pointed muzzle, also over and undershot. Splay foot; long-coated paws, ex- cept in long-coated type; hanging as well as badly- carried ears for any length of time, except in long- coated old German type dogs; rolled or badly-carried tail, cropped ears and docked tails. THE SHETLAND COLERE This breed of dog bears the same relationship in size and appearance to the rough Collie as the tiny Shetland pony does to some of the larger breeds of horses native to Scotland. They resemble them in everything but size. A good specimen of this dog should be an absolute replica in miniature of the ordinary Collie. They are a true breed inasmuch as they breed to size and type, and in their native country are used for driv- ot SHEPHERD DOGS ing and gathering the sheep inhabiting these wind- swept isles. In later years they have been bred more as companions and pets than for utility, and for this purpose they are excellent as they have the in- telligence and faithful heart of the larger dog to a high degree. The chief points to be looked for in the selection of Shetland Collie puppies are those of the Scotch Collie on a reduced scale. The general description of the breed is as follows: The average weight is about 7 pounds for bitches, and up to 10 pounds or thereby for dogs. Lenctu oF Bopy, from root of tail to shoulder, 15 inches. Heicut at Forearm, g inches to 10 inches. Lenctu oF Heap, from occiput to tip of nose, 5 inches to 6 inches. The head should be flat and not over thick in skull, with the muzzle tapering to the nose; mouth clean-teethed and level. Ears.—Semi-erect, small, and placed high on the head. Tue Eye should be well placed and small and dark, with the ordinary intelligent Collie expression. TuHE Front Leas are straight, strong boned, and short, and beautifully feathered, with plenty of chest frill. Hinpquarters strong and well feathered, with the legs clean. Tait well feathered and carried as the ordinary Collie. Cotor.—They are found in various colors, such 95 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK as black-and-tan, black-tan-and-white, black-and- white, sable-and-white, and, in that northern cli- mate, they may be found wholly white. Tue Outer Coar is long and glossy, a trifle softer in texture than the ordinary Collie, but with the usual woolly undercoat. This softness of outer coat may perhaps be accounted for by climatic con- ditions. For instance, the little Shetland sheep car- ries a much finer, softer, and more valuable coat than the sheep of our country. 96 GUN DOGS THE POINTER Tue Pointer deservedly occupies a high place in the esteem of American sportsmen, for he is at- tractive in form and possesses fine field qualities. The pointing dogs, from which they are descended, originated in Spain during the Middle Ages, and early in the seventeenth century crossed the mountains into France, and eventually found their way over to England. These early Spanish dogs were so heavy, coarse, and cumbersome that English sports- men, with the object of lightening up their heavy frames and gaining more speed, crossed them with the Foxhound. In the colonial days of this country there were many enthusiastic sportsmen, partic- ularly in Maryland and the Carolinas, who imported Pointers from abroad. These were judiciously mated, new dogs brought over from time to time, and eventually their progeny became scattered throughout the country, making warm friends and admirers, so that to-day they are one of the most popular of America’s sporting breed. The Pointer as a rule does not make up to strangers as readily as a Setter, but to his owner he is an affec- tionate and loyal companion. Pointer admirers claim that as a class their short-haired favorites are more naturally inclined to point than Setters; that they are more easily broken, retain their training 97 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK longer, and are more obedient in the field. No question will be raised over the fact that their short- ness of coat constitutes a strong recommendation for warm climate or for summer shooting on the prairies or in sections of the country where cockle burrs, sand fleas, nettles, and other pests abound and annoy long-haired dogs to distraction. There is a group of English breeders who are al- ways attempting to improve the Pointer by Fox- hound crosses. There is another group, led by William Arkwright, Esq., of Sutton, Scarsdale, Derbyshire, who have vigorously opposed these crosses. Mr. Arkwright has always stood firmly for pure breeding. He is the foremost living au- thority on the breed, his opinions have been closely followed by American breeders, and as a result our American strains have been kept pure and have arrived at a most gratifying regularity of type, combined with brilliant field qualities. There are no accurate records of the Pointers brought to this country previous to 1870. At that time the magazine Forest and Stream was founded, and it soon attained a wide circulation among sportsmen and fanciers, who began recording in its columns the descriptions and pedigrees of various celebrated dogs as well as the pedigrees, records, and appearance of the Pointers that were being brought to this country from abroad. The first of these of importance was Sensation, imported by the Westminster Kennel Club. This dog was widely heralded, but he never rose above 98 GUN DOGS mediocrity either as a sire or in the field. Bang Bang, a smaller dog of the celebrated Price strain, brought over at the same time, was in every way his superior, and one of his sons, Consolation, was pronounced the handsomest specimen of his day. A few years later the club imported Naso of Kippen, a dog of pronounced character, who had a great influence upon his breed. There was also a noted field dog in St. Louis by the name of Sleaford, and later a dog named Bow, a son of Price’s Bang, which was his equal in the field and his superior on the bench. St. Louis sportsmen then imported Faust, a magnificent animal both in appearance and in the field. The dog, however, that made the greatest impression on the breed was Croxtieth. He was not particularly attractive in appearance, being on the large order, generally coarse, ungraceful in action, with a long, narrow head. He was fast in the field, however, and his sons were better than their sire. Among them may be mentioned Trinket, Trinket’s Bang, Ossian, Robert le Diable. The next dog to be imported was Meteor, who was considerably overestimated. He was followed by a symmetrical dog named Graphic, that was widely advertised and did considerable winning, but was of ordinary ability. In the same kennel were Brackett, Meally, and Lad of Bow. One of the latter’s sons, Lad of Rush, did considerable winning in the nineties. Hempstead Farm Kennels imported Duke of Hesson, and there was another dog named Tammany, that did considerable winning about this time. The 99 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK blood, however, that made the greatest impression upon our present-day dogs was a combination of the old English Mike-Romp, the most conspicuous suc- cess of this combination being Rip Rap, by King of Kent-Hops. Among other great descendants of King of Kent were Maid of Kent, Kent’s Elgin, Strideway, and Hal Pointer. Jingo, who was the same blood as Rip Rap on his sire’s side, and also founded a family. Among his progeny are Young Jingo, Lad of Jingo, Jingo’s Pearl, Jingo’s Boy, Pearl’s Dot, Syrano, and Two Spot, all names that look well in Pointer pedigrees. Following these dogs came Alfred’s John, one of the greatest bird dogs that has ever been seen at American field trials. At one time there was some uncertainty of his breeding, and while he left some good sons and daughters, they were not regarded with the favor of those that we have previously mentioned. Another dog that made a great impression upon the breed was Fishel’s Frank, a consistent winner all over the country, and whose son, Comanche Frank, ran some celebrated races, eventually be- came a double champion, and whose daughter, Mary Montrose, was the first bird dog to win the Edward Dexter cup. She was brought out and handled by Robert Armstrong, a son of Edward Armstrong, who won the first field trial ever run in England. The Pointer standard is as follows: SKULL.—Of good size, but not as heavy as in the 100 GUN DOGS. old Spanish Pointer, and in a lesser degree his half- breed descendants. It should be wider across the ear than that of the Setter, with the forehead rising well at the brows, showing a decided stop. A full development of the occipital protuberance is in- dispensable, and the upper surface should be in two slight rounded flats, with a furrow between. Nose.—Long (4 inches to 434 inches) and broad, with widely opened nostrils. The end must be moist, and in good health is cold to the touch. It should be black or very dark brown in all but the lemons and whites, but in them it may be a deep flesh color. It should be cut off square and not pointed—known as the “snipe nose” or “pig jaw.” Teeth meeting evenly. Ears, Eyes, anp Lips.—Ears soft in coat, mod- erately long and thin in leather, not folding like the Hound’s, but lying flat and close to the cheeks, and set on low, without any tendency to prick. Eyes soft and of medium size; color brown, varying in shade with that of the coat. Lips well developed and frothing when in work, but not pendant nor flew-like. Necx.—Arched toward the head, long and round, without any approach to dewlap or throatiness. It should come out with a graceful sweep from be- tween the shoulder blades. SHOULDERS AND Cuest.—These are dependent on each other for their formation. Thus, a wide and looped chest cannot have the blades lying flat against its sides; and consequently instead of this 101 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK -and their sloping backward, as they ought to do in order to give free action, they are upright, short, and fixed. Of course, a certain width is required to give room for the lungs, but the volume required should be obtained by depth rather than width. Behind the blades the ribs should, however, be well arched, but still deep; this last, depth of back ribs, is especially important. Back, QUARTERS, AND STIFLES.—These constitute the main propellers of the machine, and on their proper development the speed and power of the dog depend. The loin should be very slightly arched and full of muscle, which should run well over the back ribs; the hips should be wide, with a tendency even to ruggedness, and the quarters should droop very slightly from them. These last must be full of firm muscle, and the stifles should be well bent and carried widely apart, so as to allow the hind- legs to be brought well forward in the gallop, in- stituting a form of action which does not tire. Lecs, ELsows, anp Hocxs.—These chiefly bony parts, though merely the levers by which the muscles act, must be strong enough to bear the strain given them, and this must act in the straight line of pro- gression. Substance of bone is therefore demanded, not only in the shanks, but in the joints, the knees and hocks being especially required to be bony. The elbows should be well let down, giving a long upper arm, and should not be turned in or out, the latter being, however, the lesser fault of the two, as the confined elbows limit the action considerably. 102 GUN DOGS The reverse is the case with the hocks, which may be turned in rather than out, the former being gen- erally accompanied by the wideness of stifles which I have already insisted on. Both hind and fore pastern should be short, nearly upright, and full of bone. Feet.—All-important; for, however strong and fast the action may be, if the feet are not well shaped and the horny covering hard, the dog will soon be- come footsore when at work, and then will refuse to leave his master’s heels, however high his courage may be. Breeders have long disputed the com- paratively good quality of the round, catlike foot and the long one resembling that of a hare. In the Pointer my own opinion is in favor of the cat foot, with the toes well arched and close together. This is the consideratum of the M. F. H., and I think stands work better than the hare foot, in which the toes are not arched, but still lie close together. In the Setter the greater amount of hair to a certain extent condones the inherent weakness of the hare foot; but in the Pointer no such superiority can be claimed. The main point, however, is the closeness of the pads, compared with the thickness of the horny covering. STERN.—Strong in bone at the root, but should at once be reduced in size as it leaves the body, and then gradually taper to a point like a bee’s sting. It should be very slightly curved, carried a little above the line of the back, and without the slightest approach to a curl at the tip. 103 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK SYMMETRY AND Qua.ity.—The Pointer should display goodly proportion, no dog showing more difference between the “gentleman” and his oppo- site. It is impossible to analyze the essentials, but every judge carries the knowledge with him. TExTuRE.—The coat in the Pointer should be soft and mellow, but not absolutely silky. Cotor.—There is now little choice, in point of fashion, between the liver and the lemon whites. After them come the black and whites (with or without tan), then the pure black, and lastly the pure liver. Dark liver-ticked is, perhaps, the most beautiful color of all to the eye. VaLuE OF Points.—Skull, 10; nose, 10; ears, eyes, and lips, 4; neck, 6; shoulders and chest, 15; back quarters and stifles, 15; legs, elbows, and hocks, 12; feet, 3; stern, 5; symmetry and quality, 7; texture of coat, 3; color, 10.:°: Total, 1606: THE ENGLISH SETTER The English Setter is one of the handsomest of sporting dogs. Their abundant coats give them an advantage over the Pointer in facing cold, wet, windy weather, or brambles and briars in a rough country. Their admirers also claim they possess more dash and vim, do not thicken up so quickly with age as the Pointer, and that they improve in their work from year to year. The picture pre- sented by a well-bred Setter with soft, expressive eye, low-set ear, head chiseled on classic lines, clean- cut neck, graceful outline, and attractive coat and 104 ‘saiddnd puv 49339g ysi[suq pesq uvoloury wp aa GUN DOGS coloring, leaves nothing to be desired in point of beauty. In addition, they possess the sweetest and most companionable of dispositions. The modern Setter is said to be descended from Spaniels which had been trained to stop and set the birds instead of flushing them. The time and place, however, where this first occurred is shrouded in obscurity. The excellences of our present-day Setters can be attributed largely to Edward Lave- rack. This gentleman, about 1825, secured a brace of Setters, Ponto and Old Moll, from the Rev. Mr. Harrison, of Carlisle. These dogs he mated, their progeny in turn were interbred, and this formule of breeding was continued for upward of fifty years, in the course of which time Mr. Laverack created a strain of Setters bearing his name, which were as famous for their field qualities as for their beauty. The types of all breeds of dogs have been de- termined almost entirely by bench shows, and if these had been the only influence that had operated upon the English Setter family, there would be but one recognized type of English Setter. This, how- ever, is not the case, for half a century ago, just about the time that bench shows were getting upon a sound basis, practical sportsmen in both Europe and America instituted field trials for Bird Dogs. These contests have enjoyed a remarkable vogue, and as a result we have had bench show Setter fanciers developing a type of Setter which expressed their ideals of what an English Setter should be, and another group of field trial men devoting all of 105 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK their attention to developing field qualities with an entire disregard for size, color, general type, con- formation, and other things that the bench-show men hold most dear. The only question that con- cerned the field-trial man was utility, his only standard “‘the survival of the fittest.” The conclusions that men arrive at in writing a bench-show standard as to how a practical working dog should be built and how his head should be sup- ported on his neck or his shoulders placed in rela- tionship to his body, is more or less whimsical and subject to change. There is no way of determining that which is right and that which is wrong. There is always danger of overemphasizing the importance of some point at the expense of others and losing sight of the fact that under the laws of correlation it is impossible to change one point without changing all others to a greater or less degree. The field-trial men have never permitted details of conformation to detract from their single object of practical performance. As a result of the operation of the law of the survival of the fittest, a field trial type has been evolved that is easily recognized, and breeds truer to type than the bench-show dogs that have been fashioned in response to the opinions of men who were without means for determining the accuracy of their judgment. The bench-show win- ning Setter to-day is a very elegant animal, but no more so than the field trial dog, with every element of utility expressed in his countenance, written in his frame, and recorded in his pedigree. 106 GUN DOGS The bench-show Setters of to-day have a Laverack foundation. Half a century ago this was more or less mixed with native blood, which disappeared before rapid importations of dogs from abroad. These early importations were nearly all Laverack, or at least the Laverack strain predominated. Those that followed them were often mixed with other Old English Setter strains, and all of them were distinguished by much grace and beauty, par- ticularly in coat, color, and general outline. Many of them had been bench-show winners abroad and a few had appeared at English field trials. Occa- sionally they were placed in America, but on the whole they were all lacking the speed, dash, en- durance, and unquenchable spirit necessary to win American stakes. Their names are regarded with disfavor in field trial pedigrees. Among the first Laverack dogs to be brought to this country were: Pride of the Border and Fairy; then came Emperor Fred and Thunder; Plantagenet and Foreman were prominent in bench shows in the early ’80’s, and shortly afterward Rockingham, Princess Beatrice, Count Howard, Monk of Furness, and Cora of Witherall had the center of the stage. In the ’go’s Albert’s Ranger was attracting a good deal of attention, and later came Mallwyd, Sirdar, Stylish Sargent, Dido B, Bloomfield Racket, Blue Bell, Moll O’Leck, Meg O’Leck, Stylish Bell Bonner. All of these dogs while attractive in appearance lacked rugged character and the well-balanced pro- portions of the field-trial strain. Most of them were 107 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK bred in England or were descended from dogs of English breeding which, although they might have proven fairly satisfactory workmen under old coun- try conditions, were unable to cope either in speed, style, endurance, or quick, snappy way of working with the field-trial type. The history of the field trial strain is as follows: About the time the Laverack strain of Setters were in their zenith in England, Mr. R. L. Purcell Llew- ellin, who for several years had been experimenting with various families of setters, purchased a num- ber of Mr. Laverack’s best dogs of the pure Dash- Moll and Dash-Lill Laverack blood. These Lave- racks he crossed with some entirely new blood, which he obtained in the north of England, represented by Mr. Statter’s and Sir Vincent Corbet’s strain since referred to as the Duke-Rhaebes, the latter being the two most prominent members of this blood. The result of these crosses was eminently suc- cessful, particularly at field trials, and swept every- thing before them. Their reputation spread to America, and many were purchased by sportsmen in different sections of the United States and Can- ada, so that this line of breeding soon became firmly established in this country. The name that stands out most conspicuously in the foundation of the field-trial Setter in America 1s Count Noble. This dog was purchased from Mr. Llewellin by Dave Samborn, of Dowling, Michigan, who, after trying him out on the prairies, was on the point of returning him to England, but was per- 108 GUN DOGS suaded not to do so by the late B. F. Wilson, of Pittsburgh. The character and qualities that Sam- born objected to were those to which Mr. Wilson attached the highest importance. On the death of Mr. Samborn, Count passed into the hands of Mr. Wilson, who gave him opportunity to demon- strate his sterling qualities and his reputation was soon established from coast to coast. The body of this famous dog, mounted, is now in the Carnegie Museum, Pittsburgh, where it is vis- ited annually by many sportsmen. Other famous names are: Gladstone, Sue, Druid, Ruby and Gath and their descendants; Bohemian Girl, Rod- erigo, Gath’s Hope, Gath’s Mark, Count Gladstone IV, Antonio, Tony Boy, Geneva, Mohawk, Lady’s Count Gladstone, Rodfield, and Count Whitestone II. Thousands of the descendants of these famous dogs are scattered all over the country, and many of them in field trials have perpetuated the fame of this branch of the Setter family. The men who for half a century have owned and bred and raised them have always been deeply concerned with the abso- lute purity of the line of breeding of their dogs, and have never tolerated an out-cross of any kind and object to a dog whose reputation is based solely upon some bench-show performance. The question of formation, weight, and color have always been of minor importance. Every- thing has been predicated upon their performance in the field, and as a result of this devotion to the single standard of utility they have succeeded in 8 109 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK establishing a general type easily recognized, but for which no standard has ever been written. The standard of the bench-show Setter as ap- proved by the English Setter Club of America 1s as follows: Heap, Eyes, anp Ears.—The form of the skull is an eminent characteristic. It should be long, with moderate dome, with but little difference be- tween the width at the base of the skull and the brows, and with a moderately defined occipital protuberance. The brows should be at a sharp and dea angle from the muzzle. The stop should be well defined and clean-cut, with a slight furrow between the eyes. The muzzle should be long, fairly square, of width in harmony with the skull, and without any fullness under the eyes. The lips should not be too full nor too pendant. Between the eyes and point of the nose the line of the muzzle should be straight; a dish-face or Roman nose is objectionable. The nose should be black or dark liver in color, except in white, lemon-and-white, orange-and-white, or liver-and-white dogs, when it may be of lighter color. The nostrils should be wide apart and large in the openings. The jaws should be of equal length; an overshot or undershot jaw is objectionable. The ears should be carried closely, hung well back and set low; of moderate length, slightly IIO GUN DOGS rounded at the ends; the leather thin and soft and clothed with silky hair. As a whole, though avoiding extremes, the head should be light rather than heavy, clean-cut, and of length and size in harmony with the body. The eyes should be bright, mild, intelligent, and of a dark-brown color. Necx.—The neck should be long and _ lean, arched at the crest, and not too throaty. SHOULDERS, CHEST, AND Rips.—The shoulders and chest should not be too heavy; they should be formed to permit perfect freedom of action to the forelegs. The shoulder blades should be long, wide, sloping well back, and standing moderately close together at the top. The chest between the shoulder blades should be of good depth, but excessive width at this point is objectionable. Back of the shoulders the ribs should spring gradually to the middle of the body, and then gradually lessen to the back ribs, which should have good depth. Back, Lorn, anp Hips.—The back should be strong at its junction with the loin, sloping upward in a slight rise to the top of the shoulders, the whole forming a graceful outline of medium length; any sway or drop in the back is objectionable. The loin should be strong, with moderate length, slightly arched, but not to the extent of being roached or wheel-backed. GH THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK The hip bones should be wide apart and without too sudden droop to the root of the tail. ForeLecs.—Ihe arm should be flat, muscular, strong, with bone fully developed, and with muscles hard and devoid of flabbiness; of good length from the point of the shoulder to the elbow; well let down at such angle as will bring the legs fairly under the dog. The elbows should have no tendency to turn either in or out. The pastern should be short, strong, and nearly round, with the slope from the pastern joint to the foot, deviating slightly from the perpendicular. Hinpiecs.— The hindlegs should have wide, muscular thighs, with well-developed lower thighs. The stifles should be well bent and strong. The hocks should be wide and flat; the cow hock is to be avoided. The pastern should be short, strong, and nearly round, with the slope from the pastern joint to the foot deviating slightly from the perpendicular. Freet.—The feet should be closely set and strong, pads well developed and tough, toes well arched and protected with short, thick hair. They should point straight from rear to front. STERN.—The stern should taper to a fine point, with only length enough to reach the hocks, or less; the feather must be straight and silky, falling loosely in a fringe and tapering to the point when the tail is raised; there must be no bushiness whatever. It should not curl sideways above the level of the back. 112 ARRON MON RET Irish Setter, Ch. Tyronne Paddy. English Setter, Count Whitestone. Pointer, Ch. Mary Montrose. ‘GUN DOGS Coat.—The coat should be flat and of moderate length, without curl; not too long or soft or woolly. The feather on the legs should be thin and regular. WEIGHT, SIzE, CoLor, AnD Marxincs.—Weight: Dogs, about forty to forty-five pounds; bitches, thirty-five to fifty pounds. Height: Dogs, about twenty-two to twenty- three inches; bitches, twenty-one to twenty-two inches. Colors: Black, white and tan; black and white; blue belton; lemon and white; lemon belton; orange and white; orange belton; liver and white; liver belton, and solid white. Markings: Dogs without heavy patches of color on the body, but flecked all over preferred. SyMMETRY.—The harmony of all the parts is to be considered. Symmetrical dogs will be slightly higher at the shoulders than at the hips. The judge is specially directed to look for balance and har- mony of proportions and an appearance of breeding and quality, and to avoid massiveness and coarse- ness. MoveEeMENT AND CarrIAGE.—An easy, free, and graceful carriage, suggesting rapidity and endurance. A merry tail (whipping from side to side) and a high carriage of head. Stiltiness, clumsiness, or a lumbering gait are objectionable. watge or Points.—Head, eyes, and ears, 12; neck, 4; shoulders, chest, and ribs, 14; back, loin, and hips, 12; forelegs, 10; hindlegs, 12; feet, 6; i) THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK stern, 3; coat, 3; weight, size, color, and markings, 3; symmetry, 5; movement and carriage, 16. Total, 100, THE IRISH SETTER The Irish Setter by most authorities is conceded to be the purest bred member of the bird dog family. This is singular, in view of the fact that very little is known about his origin, and while he is frequently alluded to by writers of a century or more ago, they have failed to tell what kind of a dog he was either in color or form. In all probability he was a red-and-white dog; a smart, active animal, full of courage, tireless energy, inclined to be headstrong, and with a nose quite as good as any other dog used for a similar purpose. The American Irish Setter of forty years ago was of this stamp, a favorite among sportsmen, and a successful competitor at the early field trials. In those days there was no particular craze for coat or coloring, and no crit- icism was aimed at dogs of a light red color or those with white markings, so long as they were cour- ageous and capable workmen in the field. With the advent of dog shows came a demand in the standards for a dark red, mahogany-colored coat. A yellowish coat was not tolerated, and bench-show judges looked with disfavor upon dogs with white mark- ings, no matter how useful they might be in other respects. As a result fanciers bred largely for color. Workmanlike qualities were forgotten, and al- 114 GUN DOGS though they succeeded in getting beautiful dark, rich, solid red dogs, it was at the expense of their utilitarian qualities, and the Irish Setter, once a reckless daredevil, frequently headstrong and difh- cult dog to break, became so timid that many of them would not stand training. That the Irish Setter is a beautiful dog no one will deny, but if he is to regain his former laurels as a field dog, the demand for a certain color and shade of coat must be forgotten, and dogs must be bred largely on account of their field merits alone. The chief points to look for in the selection of Irish Setter puppies at from two to four months old and after are almost identical with those of the English Setter, with color added, which should, of course, be a deep red. The following is the published description and standard of points of the Irish Red Setter Club: Heap.—Should be long and lean. The skull oval (from ear to ear), having plenty of brain room, and with well-defined occipital protuberance. Brows raised, showing stop. The muzzle moderately deep and fairly square at end. From the stop to the point of the nose should be long, the nostrils wide, and the jaws of nearly equal length, flews not to be pendulous. The color of the nose dark mahogany or dark walnut, and that of the eyes (which ought not to be too large), rich hazel or brown. The ears to be of moderate size, fine in texture, set on low, well back, and hanging in a neat fold close to head. 11S THE ‘COMPLETE DOG BOOK Neck.—Should be moderately long, very mus- cular, but not too thick, slightly arched, free from all tendency to throatiness. Bopy.—Should be long. Shoulders fine at the points, deep and sloping well back. The chest as deep as possible, rather narrow in front. The ribs well sprung, leaving plenty of lung room. Loins muscular and slightly arched. The hindquarters wide and powerful. Lecs AnD Feer.— The hindlegs from hip to hock should be long and muscular; from hock to heel, short and strong. The stifle and hock joints well bent, and not inclined either in or out. The fore- legs should be straight and sinewy, having plenty of bone, with elbows free, well let down, and, like the hocks, not inclined either in or out. The feet small, very firm; toes strong, close together, and arched. Tatt.—Should be of moderate length, set on rather low; strong at root and tapering to a fine point; to be carried as nearly as possible on a level with or below the back. Coat.—On the head, front of legs, and tips of ears should be short and fine; but on all other parts of the body and legs it ought to be of moderate length, flat, and as free as possible from curl or waves. FEATHERING.—The feather on the upper portion of the ears should be long and silky; on the back of the fore and hind legs long and fine; a fair amount of hair on the belly, forming a nice fringe, which may extend on chest and throat. Feet to be well 116 GUN DOGS feathered between toes. Tail to have a nice fringe of moderately long hair, decreasing in length as it approaches the point. All feathering to be as straight and flat as possible. CoLtor AND Marxkines.—The color should be a rich golden chestnut, with no trace whatever of black; white on chest, throat, or toes, or a small star on the forehead, or a narrow streak or blaze on the nose or face not to disqualify. VALUE OF Pornts.—Head, 10; eyes, 6; ears, 4; neck, 4; body, 20; hind legs and feet, 10; fore legs and feet, 10; tail, 4; coat and feather, 10; color, 8; size, style, and general appearance, 14. Total, 100. THE GORDON SETTER This handsome breed of Setters derive their name from the Dukes of Gordon, who owned a most important kennel of black-and-tan and black-white- and-tan Setters at a period considerably in advance of dog shows. No claim is made that the Dukes of Gordon originated the breed, and it has also been conclusively proven that they were not responsible for the prejudice against white markings which was developed at bench shows after classes were pro- vided for them in 1861, which resulted in complete elimination of those specimens containing white in any form. The early history of the Gordon Setter is wrapped in much mystery, considering the fact that they are of comparatively recent origin. A great many writers have stated that in the early days of the DLy THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK breed the Duke crossed one of his best dogs on a black-and-tan Collie named: Maddy which lived on the estate and was remarkably clever in finding grouse. It is said that she did not point them, her habit being to stop and watch the birds as soon as she had them located. It is conceded, even by those who deny the authenticity of this story, that occa- sionally one sees the tail of the Collie in strains that trace back to the Duke’s kennel, and it is also notable that many Gordon Setters display in work- ing birds a desire to go round their game, just as a Collie goes round a flock of sheep. Another theory is that the breed is the result of crossing the ordinary Setter on the leggy, black Springing Spaniel. There is a similarity in the physiognomy of the Gordon Setter and the Field Spaniel, and the latter in early days was a leggy dog of Setter-like type, so that this cross could have been made without affecting the working character- istics of the Setter. This is a plausible explanation of the dog’s origin. Still another theory provides that the black-and- tan Setter has been produced by a cross with the Irish Setter and the black Pointer, which latter is a Scotch product. This likewise is more feasible than the Collie story. All of the explanations are, how- ever, mere conjecture, and there exists no definite or conclusive information on the subject. At the present time the breed no longer exists in purity at the Gordon estates. The dogs there now are heavily crossed with the Laverack and other 118 GUN DOGS strains. They lack sufficient speed for present-day field trials, but make steady, reliable shooting dogs, as they have splendid noses and biddable disposi- tions. Their strikingly handsome coloring and in- telligence commend them to many people. In selecting Gordon Setter puppies the usual Setter points should be looked for, such as long head; square muzzle; well-developed occipital bone; short: body; deep chest; straight forelegs; short, straight tail, and the typical black-and-tan mark- ings, the tan of a rich, dark mahogany. In general appearance the Gordon Setter differs from his English cousin, in that he is heavier all over, showing strength rather than speed in his makeup. His skull is broad between the ears, slightly rounded, with well-developed occiput. Muz- zle well carried out to a well-developed nose, show- ing no snipiness or pinched appearance. Lips and flews should be heavier than those of the English Setter. Eyes dark, with rather a bold look; ears well let down, so as to show the formation of the skull, and not too heavily feathered. The coat is usually shorter and stronger than that of the English Setter, and must be entirely devoid of curl. The black should not under any circumstances show brown or rustiness, but be dense, jet black; the tan should be deep, rich mahogany. The tan should be carried a trifle above the foreleg and should be sharply defined where it meets the black. Black pencilings should appear on the knuckles; on the hindlegs the insides should be tan, also the inner 119 THE COMPLETE DOG (BOOK portion of the breeching and the same color should show slightly down the front of the stifle. The hind pasterns and the hind feet should be penciled like the fore feet. On the head the tan should not ex- tend too far up the lips toward the top of the muzzle, but about half way. The underjaw and throat should be tan, a spot on each cheek and above each eye, and there should also be tan on the inside of the ears. There should be no running together of colors, but the edges should be clear and well defined. VaLueE oF Points.—Head and neck, 25; neck, 5; shoulders and body, 25; legs and feet, 15; stern or tail, 5; color and markings, 25. Total, 100. THE GRIFFON The Pointing Griffon is distinguished from the Griffon Hound, from which he undoubtedly sprang. They are mentioned as far back as the sixteenth century, and paintings and drawings of the seven- teenth and eighteenth represent them practically as they are to-day. The celebrated artist, Percival L. Rosseau, who has had much to do with their introduction in this country, in discussing them in an article which he wrote for Forest and Stream a few years ago, says: “A race of dogs that has survived for four cen- turies must have remarkable qualities, and the Griffon is par excellence a dog for swamps and rough country. His coat affords protection from cold and dampness, thorns and briars, and as a mixed-game 120 GUN DOGS dog for any shooting in rough country he has no superior. “As a race they are built more for strength and endurance than for speed, although individuals under favorable conditions have shown as good speed and range as any other breed of bird dog. They are at their best, however, in close, careful ranging, covering the roughest ground thoroughly, and in America are especially adapted to grouse, woodcock, and snipe shooting. They are natural retrievers on land and water, easily broken to any kind of game, and their puppies show a higher average of nose and hunting qualities than any other existing breed of dogs. The sportsmen who love rough shooting and derive their greatest pleasure from a mixed bag will find the Griffon admirably adapted to their purpose.” The following standard has been adopted for all Wire-haired Pointing Griffons: Heap.—Big and long; hair rough and thick, not too long, but with mustache and eyebrows well marked; skull not too wide; nose long and square; stop not too pronounced. Fars.—Medium, flat, not wrinkled, placed not too low; hair short, slightly mixed with long wire hair. Fyrs.—Large, not covered by eyebrows; color, yellow or brown; expression, always intelligent. Nose.—Always brown. Necx.—Fairly long and straight. Cuest.—Deep, not too wide. 121 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK Hercut.— Males, 22 to 24 inches; females, 20 to 22 inches. SHovLDERS.—Fairly long and oblique. Rips.—Well arched. Fore.ecs.— Straight and vigorous; hair thick and rough. Hinpiecs.—Hair thick and rough; thighs long and well muscled; hocks well turned. Bacx.—Vigorous loins, thick and strong. Freet.—Round and firm; toes well closed. Tatt.—Carried horizontally, point slightly raised; hair thick but not feathered; docked generally one- third to one-half. Coat.—Color preferable, steel-gray with liver marking or liver mixed with white or roan; ad- mitted also, white-and-liver and white-and-orange. Hatr.—Hard and rough, resembling somewhat pig bristles; never curly or woolly; undercoat fine and downy. 122 RETRIEVERS THE CHESAPEAKE BAY DOG Tuese splendid retrievers are the only sporting dogs which have a clear claim to the distinction of being absolutely American. They are native to the shores of the historic Chesapeake Bay, and have a racial tree that considerably antedates the period of dog shows. There are a number of stories in regard to their origin. Among them are two recorded in Forest and Stream nearly half a century ago: One is that a vessel from Newfoundland ran aground near an estate called Walnut Grove, on the shores of the Chesapeake. On board the ship were two Newfoundland dogs which were given by the captain to Mr. Law, the owner of the estate, in return for the kindness and hospitality shown him and his crew. It is claimed that a cross between these two Newfoundlands and the common yellow- and-tan hound of that part of the country was the origin of the Chesapeake Bay Dog. Another story is that about the year 1807 the good ship Canon, of Baltimore, fell in at sea with an English brig bound from Newfoundland to Eng- land that had met disaster and was in a sinking condition. The crew were taken aboard the Canton, also a pair of puppies that eventually became the property of the captain of the Canton, and by him 123 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK were taken to Baltimore. The dog puppy, a dingy red in color, was named Sailor, and the bitch, black in color, was called Canton. Both of these dogs eventually attained great reputations as duck re- trievers, and Sailor and Canton are said to be the foundation of the breed. This all may be so, for there is no doubt that as a retriever of dead and wounded ducks no dog equals the Chesapeake. His brave heart, unlimited powers of endurance, and dense coat fit him eminently for braving the roughest weather. Nothing daunts him, and a good specimen of the breed will swim for miles in a rough sea covered with broken ice after a wounded bird. It is one of the few breeds that has always been kept pure, and although at one time it was confined largely to the duck marshes on the Maryland coast, to-day there are good specimens in various parts of the country. The Chesapeake standard is as follows: Heap.—Skull broad and round, with a medium stop; nose medium, short-muzzle pointed, but not sharp. Lips thin, not pendulous. Ears small, set well up on head, hanging loosely, and of medium leather; eyes medium large, very clear, of yellowish color, and wide apart. Necx.—Of moderate length, with a strong mus- cular appearance; tapering to shoulders. SHOULDERS, CHEST, AND Bopy.—Shoulders slop- ing, and should have full liberty of action, with plenty of power without any restrictions of move- ment. Chest strong, deep, and wide. Barrel round 124 RETRIEVERS and deep. Body of medium length, neither cobby nor roached, but rather approaching hollowness; flank well tucked up. Back QUARTERS AND StiIFLES.—Back quarters should be a trifle higher than shoulders; they should show fully as much power as forequarters. There should be no tendency to weakness in either fore- or hindquarters. Lecs, Etpows, Hocks, anp Feert.-—Legs should be medium length and straight, showing good bone and muscle, with well-webbed hare foot of good size. Toes well rounded and close pasterns slightly bent, and both pasterns and hocks medium length; the straighter the legs the better. STERN.—Tail should be medium length, varying from: males, 12 inches to 15 inches, and females from 11 inches to 14 inches; medium heavy at base, moderate feathering on stern and tail permis- sible. CoaT AND TExTURE.—Coat should be thick and short, nowhere over one and one-half inches long, with a dense, fine, woolly undercoat. Hair on face and legs should be very short and straight, with tendency to wave on the shoulders, neck, back, and loins only. The curly coat or coat with a tendency to curl not permissible. Cotor.—Should be as near dead grass as possible, varying from a tan to a faded brown. The dark- brown or liver color is not permissible, the dead grass color being correct. A white spot on breast or toes permissible. : £25 THE COMPLEIE DOG BOCK WeicutT.—Males, 65 to 75 pounds; females, 55 to 65 pounds. HeicHtT.—Males, 23 inches to 26 inches; females, 21 inches to 24 inches. SYMMETRY AND Qua.ity.—The Chesapeake Dog should show a bright, happy disposition and an intelligent expression, with general outlines good and denoting a worker. Color and coat is extremely important, as the dog is used for duck hunting. The color must be as nearly that of his surroundings as possible, and with the fact that dogs are exposed to all kinds of adverse weather conditions, often working in ice and snow, the color of coat and its texture must be given every consideration when judging on the bench or in the ring. VALUE OF Points.—Head, including lips, ears, and eyes, 12; neck, 8; shoulders, 10; back quarters and stifles, 12; elbow, legs, and feet, 10; stern, 6; symmetry and quality, 10; coat and texture, 13; color, 1:35, tail, 6. : Total;.100. THE IRISH WATER SPANIEL As to the origin of the Irish Water Spaniel there is very little authentic information. Mr. McCarthy seems to have been one of, if not the first, exhibitor of the breed and a successful one, although the Irish Water Spaniel was previously kept largely in Ireland for sporting purposes and a valued member of “Ireland’s Reds”—Red Setter, Red Spaniel; Red Terrier, Red Wolfhound. 126 RETRIEVERS The most feasible theory of his origin is a cross between the Poodle and the Irish Setter. There is much in common in type and character between the Poodle and Irish Water Spaniel—viz., in coat, con- formation, head, and general character, while in disposition the dog inherits all the dash and de- termination of the Irish Setter, and partakes of his color, which we can quite understand would be deepened by crossing in again to the Poodle. The Irish Water Spaniel partakes, too, of the great in- telligence of the Poodle, who, although regarded as a trick and fancy dog, will hunt and retrieve on land or water with most Spaniels. The breed has never made the progress with the public that it merited by their many good qualities. They are smart and upstanding in appearance, combining in- telligence and endurance with a dashing tempera- ment that make them charming companions. They are also splendid guards for children; will play with them by the hour and act as their guards in time of danger. The chief points to look for in the selection of Water Spaniel puppies at from two to four months old and after, are: A clean head, dark eye, long ears, short back, short whip tail, good size and bone, straight forelegs, and a dark, close coat. The following description and scale of points is followed by bench-show judges: Heap (value 10) is by no means long, with very little brow, but moderately wide. It is covered with curls, rather longer and more open than those of t29 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK the body nearly to the eyes, but not so as to be wigged like the poodle. Face AND Eyes (10) are very peculiar. Face very long and quite bare of curl, the hair being short and smooth, though not glossy; nose broad and nostrils well developed; teeth strong and level; eyes small and set, almost flush, without eyebrows. TopxKnNor (10) is a characteristic of the true breed, and is estimated accordingly. It should fall be- tween and over the eyes in a peaked form. Ears (10) are long, the leather extending, when drawn forward, a little beyond the nose, and the curls with which they are clothed two or three inches beyond. The whole of the ears are thickly covered with curls, which gradually lengthen toward the tips. cet AND SHOULDERS (7!4).—There is nothing remarkable about these points, which must, never- theless, be of sufficient dimensions and muscularity. The chest is small compared with most breeds of similar substance. Back AND QuarTERS (734) also have no pecu- liarity, but the stifles are almost always straight, giving an appearance of legginess. Lecs anp Feet (10).—The legs should be straight and the feet large but strong; the toes are some- what open, and covered with short, crisp curls. In all dogs of this breed the legs are thickly clothed with short curls, slightly pendent behind and at the sides, and some have them all around, hanging in ringlets for some time before the annual shedding. 128 ‘sop Avg ayvadesayy {Aafooq saastp pur BIED).C MOPIAA ‘spatuvdg s9Iv AA YstT RETRIEVERS No feather like that of the Setter should be shown. The front of the hindlegs below the hocks is always bare. TaiL (10) is very thick at the root, where it is clothed with very short hair. Beyond the root, however, the hair is perfectly short, so as to look as if the tail had been clipped, which it sometimes fraudulently is at shows, but the natural bareness of the tail is a true character of the breed. Coat (10) is composed of short curls of hair, not woolly, which betrays the Poodle cross. A soft, flossy coat is objected to as indicative of an ad- mixture with some of the land Spaniels. CoLor (10) must be a deep pure liver, without white; but, as in other breeds, a white toe will oc- casionally appear with the best litter. SyMMETRY (5) of this dog is very great. THE FLAT-COATED RETRIEVER There are three varieties of the Retriever—the curly-coated, the flat-coated (formerly described as the wavy-coated), and the Labrador. The first and last named are the two oldest varieties, the flat- coated dog being of modern manufacture—in all likelihood the product of the two, with a splash of Spaniel, Newfoundland, or Setter. As to the real origin of the Curly-coated Re- triever there is no authentic information, but there can be little doubt that he has been manufactured by a cross with the Poodle, the Irish Water Spaniel, and the Newfoundland, Labrador, or Setter. When 129 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK and by whom he was first evolved, however, it is impossible to say, beyond pointing to the fact of his existence at the end of the eighteenth and be- ginning of the nineteenth century, as shown by old prints and paintings, which was certainly before the advent of the flat-coated variety, either as a sport- ing or bench-show dog. Be that as it may, we have the dog before us whose features are quite distinct from any other variety, and which have long been thoroughly rec- ognized. Indeed, at one time the Curly-coated Re- triever was by far the most popular of the three varieties, but he has been somewhat supplanted in the affections of the devotees of this breed by the flat-coat. Still a large number of shooting as well as show men hang tenaciously to the curly-coat, and declare that in all that goes to constitute an all- round sporting dog he stands without his equal in the field. The main reason the dog has lost some favor with sportsmen 1s: first, because of the trouble involved in keeping his coat in order, more particularly for the show bench; and secondly, because he has been to a great extent supplanted by his flat-coated relative. In size, head, and general conformation, the flat- coated variety differs but little from the curly-coat. The points and features are all practically the same, the only real difference being in coat. This, as already stated, should be flat, the outer coat rather harsh to the touch, there being an undercoat for 130 RETRIEVERS warmth, the outer one being for weather resistance. The legs, both before and aft, and the tail should be feathered, and the feet protected by well-feathered pads. In breeding flat-coated Retrievers the object is to produce a strong, well-made, useful dog, showing quality—a workman in architecture, with the finish of a gentleman. Length of head, good shoulders, a strong loin and quarters, with straight forelegs, and a flat coat are the chief points to aim at and pre- serve. The flat-coats have rarely the same spring of rib as the curly-coats, in which they reveal their unmistakable Setter ancestry; but this should be cultivated. Light eyes are a prevailing defect in the flat-coats, and should be avoided as much as possible, as it is invariably an indication of un- certain temper or a headstrong disposition. The chief points to look for in the selection of flat-coated Retriever puppies at from two to four months old and after, are: A long, level head, free from lippiness; dark eye; nicely balanced skull; small ears set close to side of head; short back; short, straight tail; deep chest; well sprung ribs; straight forelegs; well boned, and a flat, close, dense coat. CURLY-COATED RETRIEVER The Curly-coated Retriever is a much older breed than the Flat-coat, which has to a great extent dis- placed him in the affections of the public. The Flat-coat has a Setter or Spaniel ancestry, while the 131 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK progenitor of the Curly-coat was undoubtedly a Poodle, a breed at one time plentiful in England and used for sporting purposes. The Curly-coated Retriever is a beautiful dog, and many of them as workmen are the equal of the Flat-coats. They are fully as intelligent, but are believed to be slightly inferior in nose, naturally harder mouthed, and more difficult to train and handle. The only physical difference of importance be- tween the two breeds lies in the character of their coats, that of the typical Curly-coat being a close fitting, inseparable nigger curl, each knot being solid, and the small locks and curls so close together as to be impervious to water. All parts of the body should be covered as if clothed in astrachan from the occiput to the tip of the tail. The curls on the head should finish in a straight line across the occiput, the hair on the face being short and smooth. The coat requires a good deal of attention. It should never be combed or brushed. If the old coat does not shed it should be carefully pulled out, and open-coated dogs, which do not grow the short, crisp curl, should be clipped all over with horse clippers, as that usually induces the new coat to come out stronger and more tightly curled. In selecting Curly-coated Retrievers look for the conformation and points that distinguish the short, crisp coat typical of this breed. The chief points to look for in the selection of Curly-coated Retriever puppies at from two to ig: RETRIEVERS four months old and after are identical with those of the flat-coated variety, except the coat, which should be short and crisp at the age given. This description of coat is most likely to develop into the small, tight curls so desirable. The Curly-coated Retriever Club publishes the following standard and scale of points: Heap.—Long and narrow for the length. Ears.—Rather small, set on low, lying close to the head, and covered with short curls. Jaws.—Long and strong, free from lippiness, with good, sound teeth. Nose.—Wide-open nostrils, moist and black. Eyes.—Dark, cannot be too dark, rather large, showing great intelligence and splendid temper; a full Pug eye an objection. Coat.—Should be one mass of short, crisp curls from the occiput to the point of tail; a saddle-back, or patch of uncurled hair behind shoulders and white patch on chest should be penalized; but few white hairs allowed in an otherwise good dog. Color, black or liver. Necx.—Long, graceful, but muscular and well placed and free from throatiness, such as a Blood- hound. SHOULDERS.—Very deep, muscular, and obliquely placed. Cuest.—Not too wide, but decidedly deep. Bopy.—Rather short, muscular, and well ribbed up. Lecs.—Forelegs straight, with plenty of bone; not too long, and set well under body. V33 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK FreEetT.—Round and compact, with toes well arched. Loin.—Powerful, deep, and firm to the grasp. Tatt.—Should be carried pretty straight, and covered with short curls, tapering toward tip. GENERAL APPEARANCE.—A strong, smart dog, moderately low on leg, active, lively, beaming with intelligence and expression. VaLue or PRoints.—Head, 10; jaws, 53 eyesyi5s neck, 5; chest, 5% legs, 55 loins, 10; ears, §;aageemms coat, 14; shoulders,.5; body, 5; feet, 5; tail ya peem= eral appearance, 10. Total, 100. LABRADOR This breed of dogs is a compatriot of the New- foundland, and although they have played an im- portant part in the evolution of the Flat-coated Retriever, one of the most important sporting dogs in Britain, they have never succeeded in attracting much attention to themselves. The Labrador is a sort of Smooth-coated New- foundland in disposition and character, and a Flat- coated Retriever in appearance. Their names in- dicate their origin. The breed first made its appear- ance at those maritime towns in England that were engaged in the fishing industry with Newfoundland. There is no question about this breed being one of the most intelligent of all dogs, lending themselves promptly to all useful purposes. They are extremely courageous and industrious, and are unsurpassed for amiability and faithfulness. Their rough-and-ready 134 RETRIEVERS appearance indicative of endurance, and their keen powers of scent were at once recognized by sports- men, but they have not attracted the attention of the fanciers, and the breed is in practically the same position that it was over half a century ago. There is no club for the Labrador either in this country or in England; consequently there is no fixed standard. It is, however, generally agreed that it should follow closely the standard for Flat- coated Retrievers, with the exception that the Labrador should be slightly smaller in size and lower on leg. The head should also be thicker and the muzzle squarer. The coat should be as smooth, also shorter and denser. The Labrador runs to light eyes. This should not be considered an objection. The Labrador is frequently used for out-crosses on Flat-coated Retrievers that have been too closely inbred. 135 WORKING SPANIELS THE SPANIEL FAMILY THE name borne by this family of beautiful dogs indicates that the parent stock came from Spain. In response to special environment or to gratify the fancy of breeders, or bred to serve useful purposes, they have since divided into several important groups. Just when the Spaniel came to England it is impossible to say, for while the early writers refer to Water Dogges and Water Spaniels, their descrip- tions are so lacking in clarity that it 1s impossible to form an opinion that is free from reservations. The fact that many of the older writers refer to the presence among English sportsmen of a dog used for retrieving wild fowl that was known as the Water Dogge, has prompted writers to Jump to the conclusion that this dog was the parent Spaniel type. This is a great mistake. The Water Dogge was not a true Spaniel, but on the contrary was de- scended from the French Barbet, the ancestor of the Poodle. This early Water Dogge, if old pictures and engravings are to be believed, was quite similar to the modern Irish Water Spaniel and presented the same general confirmation, coat, and topknot. It is probable that both are of Barbet ancestry; certainly the Irish Water Spaniel is not of true Spaniel type. 136 ‘jatuedg 4194909 ‘suoidurryy spuuay suoispyvaa :saruvdg pyat,y suo spyeaAy Jatuedg 494905 \ = WORKING SPANIELS The old English Water Spaniel, the progenitor of the modern family of Spaniels, was a distinct breed. Early paintings portray him as being much like the Springer of to-day, differing principally in the char- acter of his coat, which was curly. The old English Water Spaniel was crossed occasionally with other breeds and the progeny mated with careful selec- tion, and from them we have derived the various families of modern Springers, Field Spaniels, Cockers, Sussex, Welch, and diminutive toys. Some of these breeds are useful to the sportsman, others are simply pets; but from the forty-pound Springer to the five- pound toy, they all resemble each other in marked amiability of character and unusual intelligence. Another important branch of the old English Water Spaniel breed is the setter family. All setters are of Spaniel origin, and early writers refer to the setting Spaniel in contradistinction to those that sprang in and flushed the game, which were known as Springers. There is also another breed of dogs mentioned by Cuvier and other authorities, as the Alpine Spaniel. This dog is said to have been the progenitor of the St. Bernard and the Clumber. However this may be, there is no question but what there is a similarity in coloration between the Clumber and the St. Bernard, as well as a further resemblance in their massive structure and peculi- arities of the head, eyes, and flews. The Old English Water Spaniel broke up into the several groups of Spaniels we have enumerated, but unfortunately while the breeds were being created rae THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK the parent breed was lost. There have been several attempts to resurrect the parent type without much success, and nothing can be said about them other than that in appearance they probably resembled the modern Springer, the principal difference being a curlier coat. Like him, they were a useful dog that would hunt fur or feather and retrieve from land or water. THE ENGLISH SPRINGER This is probably the prototype of the whole of the sporting Spaniel family. Some of the earliest records speak of the “Springing Spaniel,” and he is no doubt a contemporary of the “Setting Spaniel,” the two dogs doubtless being the only Spaniels in existence at one period. They were probably much the same in type and conformation, the former being taught to “spring” at his quarry in flushing it, and the other to “set” it; hence the distinction. From the latter the Setter was doubtless evolved, and from the “Springing Spaniel” the whole of the beautiful varieties we now possess have emanated, leaving the original a derelict on the sands of time. It is probably incorrect to say that the old English Springer has ever become extinct, for although he never gained a footing on the English show bench until very recently, when, through the instrumen- tality of Mr. W. Arkwright and the Sporting Spaniel Society, the Kennel Club was induced to place him on the register, yet he has been kept in his purity in many shooting kennels in different parts of the et WORKING SPANIELS country, the owners of which have preferred utility to beauty, ignoring what they have termed “elongated monstrosities” of the show ring. The English Springer is, with the Norfolk Spaniel, one of the most rational dogs in point of architecture of all the Spaniel varieties, viewed from the vantage point of utility. He may be any color almost, and is a leggy dog in comparison to the Field Spaniels, with a short and more symmetrical body, straight front, flat coat, a long head, a square muzzle, rather narrow skull, and low-set ears. His eyes and ex- pression, gait and feathering are distinctly Spaniel. He combines strength with activity, courage with docility, and all the characteristics of a workman. He is a dog of from 40 to 50 pounds in weight. The chief points to look for in the selection of English Springer puppies at from two to four months old and after, are: A long head, lean skull, distinct stop, square muzzle, short, well-balanced body, straight forelegs, longer in proportion than the Field Spaniel, flat coat, down-carried tail. The following description appears in British Dogs: SkuLL.—Long and slightly arched on top; fairly broad, with a stop, and well-developed temples. Jaws.—Long and broad, not snipy, with plenty of thin lip. Eyes.—Medium size, not too full, but bright and intelligent, of a rich brown. Ears.—Long, low set, and lobular in shape. Necx.—Long, strong, and slightly arched. +3) THE COMPLETE DOG) BOOK SHOULDERS.—Long and sloping. ForeLecs.—Of a fair, moderate length, strong boned and straight. __ Bopy.—Strong, with well-sprung ribs; good girth, and chest deep and fairly broad. Lorn.—Rather long, strong, and slightly arched. HinpquartTers.—Very muscular; hocks well let down, stifles moderately bent, and not twisted in- ward or outward. Freetr.—Rather large, round, and hairy. STERN.—Low-carried, not above the level of the back. Coat.—Thick, firm, and smooth or slightly wavy; it must not be too long. The feathering must be moderate on the ears and scanty, but continued down to the heel. Co.tor.—Black, liver, yellow, as self-colors, and pied or mottled with white or tan or both. GENERAL APPEARANCE.—An active, compact dog, upstanding, but by no means stilty. His height at shoulder should about equal his length from the top of the withers to the root of the tail. THE FIELD SPANIEL This is one of the most popular varieties of the Sporting Spaniel, and to all intents and purposes is, in its present form, a modern creation, dating from somewhere about the advent of dog shows. The Field Spaniel is lower on leg and longer in body in proportion than any other Spaniel. This an- atomical formation in the first place had its origin 140 WORKING SPANIELS in the production of a Spaniel better adapted for getting under gorse and brushwood than was the Springer and a dog that was less active than the Cocker. It is from these two older varieties, with an admixture of the Sussex, that the beautiful Field Spaniels of to-day, in all their pretty colors, were first evolved. The colors are black-and-tan, black, liver, liver-and-tan, black-and-white, black- tan-and-white, liver-roan, blue-roan, etc. The blacks at one time were the most popular, but the craze for great length of body and lowness on leg was carried to such extremes that the breed at once degenerated into little less than elongated mon- strosities. It lost the beautiful chiseling of head, at least in many of the specimens exhibited, and straightness of forelegs, and the activity which all sporting Spaniels should possess more or less. A reaction among sporting men set in, and, owing to their efforts and those of the Sporting Spaniel Club, happily the heavy-headed, crooked-fronted, and sluggish crocodile-like pattern are now happily al- most obsolete. We have to-day, too, a more rational type of dog, one that possesses all the features of an animal well fitted to perform the work originally prescribed for him, and yet free from the abnormalities which so disfigured the dog at one stage of his career. The chief points to look for in the selection of puppies at from two to four months old and after of all the varieties of Field Spaniels, black and colored, are practically identical, and are: A long 10 I41 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOk head, narrow skull, distinct stop; square muzzle, long body, flat back, short legs, the forelegs being straight and showing great bone, with a flat coat and down-carried tail. The following description standard and scale of points has been adopted by the Spaniel Club: GENERAL APPEARANCE.—Considerably larger, heavier, and stronger in build than the “Cocker,” the modern “Field Spaniel,” is more active and animated than the “Clumber,” and has little of the sober sedateness characteristic of the latter. He should exhibit courage and determination in his carriage and action as well as liveliness of temperament, though not in this respect to the same restless de- gree generally possessed by the “Cocker.” His conformation should be long and low, more so than tie * Cocker-’’ Intelligence, obedience, and good nature should be strongly evident. The colors most preferred are solid black or liver, but liver-and-white, black-and- white, black-and-tan, orange, and orange-and-white are all legitimate Spaniel colors. Heap (value 15.)—Long and not too wide, elegant and shapely, and carried gracefully; skull showing clearly-cut brows, but without a very pronounced “stop; occiput distinct and rising considerably above the set-on of the ears; muzzle long with well- developed nose, not too thick immediately in front of the eye, and maintaining nearly the same breadth to the point; sufficient flew to give a certain square- ness to the muzzle and avoid snipiness or wedginess 142 WORKING SPANIELS of face; teeth sound and regular; eyes intelligent in expression and dark, not showing the haw, nor so large as to be prominent or goggle-eyed. Ears (10) should be long and hung low on the skull, lobe-shaped and covered with straight or slightly wavy silky feather. Neck (5) long, graceful, and free from throati- ness, tapering toward the head; not too thick, but strongly set into shoulders and brisket. SHOULDERS AND Arms (10).—The shoulder blades should lie obliquely and with sufficient looseness of attachment to give freedom to the forearms, which should be well let down. Lecs AND Feet (15).—The forelegs should be straight, very strong and short; hindlegs should be well bent at the stifle joint, with plenty of muscular power. Feet should be of good size, with thick, well-developed pads, not flat or spreading. Bopy AND Quarters (20) long, with well-sprung ribs; strong, slightly arching loins, well coupled to the quarters, which may droop slightly toward the stern. Coat AND FEATHER (15).—The coat should be as straight and flat as possible, silky in texture, of sufficient denseness to afford good protection to the skin in thorny coverts, and moderately long. The feather should be long and ample, straight or very slightly wavy, heavily fringing the ears, back or fore legs, between the toes, and on back quarters. Taiz (10) should be strong and carried not higher than the level of the back. 143 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK THE COCKER SPANIEL The Cocker Spaniel, unlike the field varieties, is — free from any abnormalities, being a rationally built and symmetrical little dog, full of buoyancy and beaming with intelligence, and of tireless energy. Those features and characteristics in the dog ac- count for his popularity. As to his origin there is the same mystery, but little doubt exists that the Cocker is among the most ancient of the Spaniel family. He derives the name from the fact that he was first used as an aid to the gun in shooting woodcocks, being a handy little dog in getting through the dense thickets and bramble, while as a retriever he has probably not his equal for nose and cleverness. At all the leading shows in America the Cocker section is a very large one, the classes numerous, and the interest in this merry little sportsman probably keener than it is in Eng- land. A few years ago this breed showed signs of degenerating as sporting dogs, having drifted into toyishness on the one hand and become too low on leg in many cases, although, to the credit of breed- ers it may be said, that the true type of the dog was never lost. Cockers even vary very much in size and type. We have the Devonshire Cockers and the Welsh Cockers, and others indigenous to different dis- tricts of the country to which they are more or less adapted, but happily there 1s only one type now rec- ognized in the show ring, and that is the short- 144 WORKING SPANIELS coupled, sturdy, well-balanced, good-fronted flat- coated dog with a nicely chiseled head, dark eye, and square muzzle, who looks like and is a work- man from stem to stern, a dog of from 23 to 27 pounds. The chief points, therefore, to aim at in breeding Cocker Spaniels are compactness of body, straight- ness of forelegs, squareness of muzzle, dark eyes, and flat coats, with a down-carriage of stern. Com- mon defects in the breed, especially the colored variety, are crooked fronts, light eyes, and cock- tails, which are an abomination alike to sporting men and to good judges. The chief points to look for in the selection of Cocker Spaniel puppies, any color, from two to four months old and after, are: A nicely balanced head, distinct stop, square muzzle, dark eye, short, compact body; well balanced in proportion to length of leg, down-carried tail and flat coat. The Cocker Spaniel standard is as follows: SKULL (8).—Not so heavy as in other Sporting Spaniels, with smooth forehead and clearly defined eyebrows and stop, the median line distinctly marked and gradually disappearing until lost rather more than half way up a well-developed, rounded, and comparatively wide skull, showing no prom- inence in the cheeks, which, like the sides of the muzzle, should present a smooth, clean-cut ap- pearance. Muzz.e (10).—Proportionately shorter and lighter than the Field Spaniel, showing no fullness under 145 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK the eyes, the jaws even and approaching square- ness. Teeth sound and regular, the front ones meeting. Lips cut off square, preventing any ap- pearance of snipiness. Nose well developed in all directions and black in color excepting in the reds, livers, parti-colors of these shades, and in roans of the lighter lines, when it may be brown or black. Eyes (7).—Comparatively larger, round, rather full, yet never goggled nor weak, as in the toy Spaniel kinds. They should be dark in the blacks, black-and-tans, the darker shades of parti-colors and roans. In the reds and livers and in the parti- colors and roans of these colors they should be brown, but of a shade not lighter than hazel. Ears (4).—Lobular, set low, leather fine, and not extending beyond the nose; well clothed with long, silky hair, which should be straight or wavy. Neck AND SHOULDERS (15).—Neck sufficiently long to allow the nose to reach the ground easily, muscular, free from throatiness, and running into clean-cut, sloping shoulders, which should not be wide at the points. Bopy (18).—Comparatively short, compact, and firmly knit together, giving the impression of a concentration of power and untiring activity. Chest deep rather than wide, not narrow-fronted nor yet so wide as to interfere with free action of the fore- legs. Ribs well sprung, deep, and carried far back; short in the coupling and flank, free from any tucked appearance. Back and loin immensely strong and compact in proportion to the size of the 146 WORKING SPANIELS dog, the former level and the latter slightly arched. Hips wide, with quarters considerably rounded and very muscular. Lecs anp FEEtT (18).—Forelegs short and straight, though proportionately longer than in any of the other breeds of short-legged Spaniels; strongly boned and muscled, with elbows well let down and straight, short, strong pasterns. Hindlegs proportionately short. Stifles well bent, strong thighs clearly de- fined. Hocks clean, strong, well let down, bent and turning neither in nor out, the hindquarters from a back view presenting an impressive combination of propelling power. Feet neither small nor large, round, firm, not spreading, and with deep, strong, horny pads and plenty of hair between the toes. They should turn neither in nor out. STERN (5).—Should be set on and carried level with the back, and when at work its action should be incessant in this the brightest and merriest of the whole Spaniel family. Coat (10).—Flat or slightly waved, silky, and very dense, with ample Setter-like feather. Cotor anp Markincs (5).—Blacks should be jet black and reds, livers, etc., should never be faded or “washy”’ shades, but of good, sound colors, white on the chest of self-colors, while objectionable, should not disqualify. WeicutT.—Not under 18 nor exceeding 24 pounds. GENERAL Description.—A neat-headed, wide- awake, serviceable-looking little dog with an ex- pression of great intelligence; short in body when 147 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK viewed from above, yet standing over considerable ground for one of his inches upon strong, straight front legs, with wide, muscular quarters suggestive of immense power, especially when viewed from behind. A downward tendency in front he ought not to possess, but should stand well up at the shoulders like the clever little sporting dog that he is. Massive in appearance by reason of his sturdy body, powerful quarters, and strong, well-boned limbs, he should nevertheless impress one as being a dog capable of considerable speed, combined with great powers of endurance, and in all his movements he should be quick and merry, with an air of alert- ness and a carriage of head and stern suggestive of an inclination to work. THE CLUMBER SPANIEL This handsome and useful member of the Spaniel family is of ancient lineage, and his solemn and majestic aspect mark him as a true aristocrat of long descent. The Clumbers are deserving of their popularity with shooting men, for no dog is a more capable assistant to the gun as they are by inclina- tion the keenest and most persevering of hunters, have the best of noses, and, considering their massive build, have remarkable powers of endurance. The Clumber Spaniel is easily trained, easily con- trolled, and unusually intelligent. They take natu- rally to retrieving, are good water dogs, and as all- round workmen have no superiors. There is a good deal of mystery about the origin 148 WORKING SPANIELS of this breed, and history carries them back to the middle of the eighteenth century. About that time the French Duc de Noailles presented a kennel of Spaniels to the second Duke of Newcastle, whose Nottinghamshire country place is known as Clum- ber Park. Here the breed is said to have originated; certainly it is here that it received its name. There is no trace of their origin in France, for there at the present day at least the Clumber is ac- cepted as a purely English product. It has been suggested that the Duke, finding that the Spaniels that had been presented to him were too fast, re- duced their pace by crossing them on some heavier breed. What the cross or crosses were will never be known, but the Clumber’s general type, his massive frame, powerful limbs, white coat with lemon markings, and his solemn and majestic aspect and demeanor suggest the St. Bernard. There is also a theory that they owe their origin to a cross of Baron Cuvier’s Alpine Spaniel, a dog indirectly re- lated to the St. Bernard. The Clumber Spaniel has been very successful in the English Spaniel trials, and the most convincing evidence of their worth is the tenacity with which the owners of old strains hang on to them and con- tinue to breed and shoot over them year after vear. In selecting Clumber puppies look for short, massive heads, square muzzles, well marked stop; low-set, massive body of moderate length; big bone; flat, dense coat; down-carried tail and pale orange or lemon markings. 149 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK The standard and value of points is as follows: GENERAL APPEARANCE AND SizE.—General ap- pearance, a long, low, heavy-looking dog, of a very thoughtful expression, betokening great intelligence. Should have the appearance of great power. Sedate in all movements, but not clumsy. Weight of dogs averaging between 55 and 65 pounds; bitches, from 35 to 50 pounds. Heap.—Head large and massive in all its dimen- sions; round above eyes, flat on the top, with a furrow running from between the eyes up the center. A marked stop and large occipital pro- tuberance. Jaw long, broad, and deep. Lips of upper jaw overhung. Muzzle not square, but at the same time powerful-looking. Nostrils large, open, and flesh-colored, sometimes cherry-colored. Eyes.—Eyes large, soft, deep set, and showing haw. Hazel in color, not too pale, with dignified and intelligent expression. Ears.—Ears long and broad at the top, turned over on the front edge, vine-shaped, close to the head; set on low and feathered only on the front edge, and there but slightly. Hair short and silky, without the slightest approach to wave or curl. Neck AnD SHOULDERS.—Neck long, thick, and powerful; free from dewlap, with a large ruff. Shoul- ders immensely strong and muscular, giving a heavy appearance in front. Bopy anpD QuarTers.—Body very long and low, well ribbed up, and long in the coupling. Chest of great depth and volume. Loin powerful and not 150 WORKING SPANIELS too much arched. Back long, broad, and straight; free from droop or bow. Length an important char- acteristic, the nearer the dog is in length to being two and one-half times his height at shoulder the better. Quarters shapely and very muscular, neither drooping nor stilty. Lecs anD FeErr.—Forelegs short, straight, and immensely heavy in bone. Well in at elbow. Hind- legs heavy in bone, but not as heavy as forelegs. No feather below hocks, but thick hair on back of legs just above foot. Feet large, compact, and plentifully filled with hair between toes. Coat AND FEATHER.—Coat silky and straight, not too long, extremely dense; feather long and abundant. Cotor AND Marxincs.—Color, lemon and white, and orange and white. Fewer markings on body the better. Perfection of markings, solid lemon or orange ears, evenly marked head and eyes, muzzle and legs ticked. STERN.—Stern set on a level and carried low. VaLuE OF Points.—General appearance and size, 10; head, 15; eyes, 5; ears, 10; neck and shoulders, 15; body and quarters, 20; legs and feet, 10; coat and feather, 10; color and markings, 5. Total, 100. THE SUSSEX SPANIEL This handsome breed derives its name from the county of Sussex, where it originated, or at least has existed for many years. The Sussex is one of the oldest of the Spaniel family. The breed, however, | THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK have been kept pure only by excessive in-breeding, which has impaired their constitutions. In conse- quence puppies are often delicate and hard to raise, but are hardy after they arrive at maturity. The well-bred Sussex is a beautiful Spaniei, for his symmetrical proportions are clothed in a rich red coat that would lend distinction to any dog. In the field they are most reliable workmen, some- what slower to be sure than the leggier Springer, but surpassing them in patience and perseverance. They will force their way through the thickest cover and allow nothing to escape them. They differ from the rest of the Spaniels by giving tongue on scent, and those who are accustomed to them can tell by the difference in their tone whether they are after fur or feather. The modern Field Spaniel gets his size and weight from the Sussex Spaniel, and in years gone by they have undoubtedly been resorted to in developing other breeds. The chief points to look for in the selection of Sussex Spaniel puppies at from two to four months old and after, are: A short, massive head, square muzzle, well-defined stop, lengthy body on short, straight forelegs; great bone, flat coat of a deep golden color, down-carried tail. The descriptive particulars of this breed are as follows: Heapv.—The skull should be moderately long, and also wide, with an indentation in the middle, and a full stop; brows fairly heavy; occiput full but not Tig Clumber Spaniel, Hempstead Bingo. Cocker Spaniel, Brookside Marcus and Brookside Aristocrat. ae ie WORKING SPANIELS pointed, the whole giving an appearance of heavi- ness without dullness. Eyes.—Hazel color, fairly large, soft and languish- ing, not showing the haw overmuch. Nose.—The muzzle should be about three inches long, square, and the lips somewhat pendulous; the nostrils well developed and liver color. Ears.—Thick, fairly large, and lobe-shaped; set moderately low, but relatively not so low as in the Black Field Spaniel; carried close to the head, and furnished with soft, wavy hair. Neck is rather short, strong, and slightly arched, but not carrying the head much above the level of the back. There should not be much throatiness in the skin, but well-marked frill in the coat. CHEST AND SHOULDERS.—The chest is round, es- pecially behind the shoulders, deep and wide, giving a good girth. The shoulders should be oblique. Back AND Back Rigss.—The back and loin is long, and should be very muscular, both in width and depth; for this development the back ribs must be deep. The whole body is characterized as low, long, level, and strong. Lecs anpD Ferer.—The arms and thighs must be bony, as well as muscular, knees and hocks large and round, and with short hair between the toes. The legs should be very short and strong, with great bone, and may show a slight bend in the forearm, and be moderately well feathered. The hindlegs should not be apparently shorter than the forelegs or be too much bent at the hocks, so as to give a Settery 153 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK appearance, which is so objectionable. The hind- legs should be well feathered above the hocks, but should not have much hair below this point. The hocks should be short and wide apart. Tai. should be docked from five to seven inches, set low, and not carried above the level of the back; thickly clothed and moderately long feather. Coat.—Body coat abundant, flat, or slightly waved, with no tendency to curl; moderately well feathered on legs and stern, but clean below the hocks. Cotor.—Rich golden liver. This is a certain sign of the purity of the breed, dark liver or puce denot- ing unmistakably a recent cross with the black or other variety Field Spaniels. GENERAL APPEARANCE.—Rather massive and mus- cular, but with free movements and nice tail action, denoting a tractable and cheerful disposition. Weight from 35 to 45 pounds. VALUE oF Points.—Head, 10; eyes, $3 nosesnee ears, 10; neck, 5; chest and shoulders, 5; back and back ribs, 10; legs and feet, 10; tail,’ ¢:eoqeaee color, 15; general appearance, 15. Total, 100. THE WELSH SPRINGER The Welsh Springer is a smart, active Spaniel, more lightly built and smaller than Field Spaniels, being very little larger than the Cocker. They are invariably white in color, with red or deep orange markings. They have beautifully chiseled heads, 154 WORKING SPANIELS small Clumber-shaped ears, and are generally most attractive. The Welsh Springer is undoubtedly an old breed that has been used by the sportsmen of Wales, who refer to them not as Spaniels, but as Starters. They are eminently sportsmanlike in appearance, and have proven themselves to be capital workmen in the field, so that their future popularity is as- sured. They have made great headway on the English benches, and their classes are well filled with specimens of uniform type. The Welsh Springer is a dog of from 30 to 40 pounds weight, proportionate in all his parts, with a well-balanced head, straight front, grand spring of rib, and powerful hindquarters. He may be de- scribed as an enlarged Cocker, but shows less feather- ing than is found in most of the other varieties, and the ears are also shorter. As in all Spaniels, snipiness and thick heads are common defects, and the Welsh Springer is no exception. This said, the breed is at once a rational one, and possesses all the traits of his English cousin, while the uniformity of color and its irregular distribution give to a group of Welsh Springers quite a picturesque appearance. In this way the variety has made great headway on the show bench and enlisted a number of enthusiasts within its ranks, who are much devoted to the breed not only for its general beauty, but also for its won- derful prowess in the field. The chief points to look for in the selection of 155 THE COMPLETE D@G’ BOOK Welsh Springer puppies at from two to four months and after, are almost the same as those of the Eng- lish Springer, the recognized color being, of course, red-and-white. The following is the description formulated by the Welsh members of the Sporting Spaniel Society: SkuLL.—Fairly long and fairly broad, slightly rounded, with a stop at the eyes. Jaws.—Medium length, narrow (when looked at downwards), straight, fairly square, the nostrils well developed, and flesh-colored or dark. A short, chubby head is objectionable. Eyes.—Hazel or dark brown, medium size, in- telligent, not prominent nor sunken nor showing haw. Ears.—Comparatively small, covered with feather not longer than the ear, set moderately low, and hanging close to the cheeks. Neck.—Strong, muscular, clean in throat. SHOULDERS.—Long and sloping. ForeLecs.—Medium length, straight, good bone, moderately feathered. Bopy.—Strong, fairly deep, not long, well-sprung ribs. Length of body should be proportionate to that of leg. Lorn.—Muscular and strong, slightly arched, well coupled up and knit together. | HinpquarTEeRS AND Lecs.—Strong; hocks well let down; stifles moderately bent (not twisted in or out), not feathered below the hock on the leg. Feet.—Round, with thick pads. 156 WORKING SPANIELS STERN.—Low, never carried above the level of the back, feathered, and with a lively motion. Coat.—Straight or flat, and thick. CoLor.—Red or orange-and-white (red _prefer- able). GENERAL APPEARANCE.—Symmetrical, compact, strong, merry, active, not stilty, built for endurance and activity. WeicuHT.—Between 30 and 42 pounds. “ 157 WORKING TERRIERS THE OLD ENGLISH BROKEN-HAIRED TERRIER Tus ancient English breed of working Terriers is one of the few breeds for which a specialist club does not exist, and there is a decided call for one to save it from utter extinction. A quarter of a century must have elapsed since a specimen of this breed was exhibited. As a kennel terrier and com- panion the name of the Old English Terrier is prom- inent in the history of country sport, and he is doubtless the progenitor of the more popular and plentiful Fox Terrier. The Black-and-Tan Broken-haired Old English Terrier is a dog of very great antiquity. He appears in some of the oldest prints and paintings, and no sportsman’s establishment of the olden time was considered complete without him. To-day his ranks are thinned even in the hunting field, whilst he is now nearly unknown on the show bench. Such a sterling Terrier in make and shape, in hardihood and grit should not be allowed to lapse into ob- scurity. No breed either from the point of view of antiquity, tradition, appearance, and utility was or is more deserving of perpetuation. Those who know agree that they possess traits to be cherished in the heart of anyone who loves a dog for his worth and not for what he would fetch in the market. 158 WORKING TERRIERS Fox-Terriers and Airedales, two popular breeds which have circled the world, owe most of their Terrier traits, external and internal, to their part progenitor, the Old English Broken-haired Terrier, while the latter has almost entirely passed away. The chief differences between the Old English and the Welsh Terrier are in size, the latter being a few pounds heavier. The Old English Terrier had a long, strong, punishing jaw, level mouth, flat skull, free from cheekiness, and a small, dark, de- termined eye; good bone, coat hard to the touch; colors, black-and-tan and grizzle-and-tan. THE BLACK-AND-TAN TERRIER There was a Black-and-Tan Terrier in England before the days of dog shows, less graceful in out- line and coarser in type, to be sure, than those of to-day. These early dogs did not present the fancy marks of penciled toes and dotted brows; their tan was smutty, but nevertheless they were sound, game, and useful dogs, the most accomplished of rat killers whether in the pit or along water courses. The Manchester district was a noted center for two “poor men’s sports’—rat killing and rabbit coursing. A fancier by the name of John Hulme, with the idea of producing a dog that could be used at both contests, bred a whippet bitch to a cele- brated rat-killing dog, a cross bred terrier dark brown in color. The result of this cross was very satis- factory, the dogs proved useful, and other fanciers in the neighborhood took to breeding them, and the aa? THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK Manchester school of terriers was launched. They advanced in popularity rapidly and soon spread over the British Isles and were brought to this country in considerable numbers. The name Man- chester was dropped as being too restricted in its designation, and they have since been known as the Black-and-Tan Terrier. As a sagacious, intelligent pet and companion and as a house dog, no breed is superior to the well- bred Black-and-Tan. There is a sleek, well-bred appearance about them that no other dog presents. Their long, clean heads, keen expression, glossy coat, whip tail, and smart, wide-awake appearance always command attention. Their cleanly habits and short coats also admit them to homes that shut out their rough-haired brothers. The Black-and-Tan Terrier, with all his refine- ment, has lost none of his gameness. He is still per se a vermin dog, unequaled and is capable of holding his own in a rough-and-tumble scrap with anything living of his weight. In his early history the Black-and-Tan was a cropped dog, and many still admire the alert ap- pearance of a head well set off by a pair of well- cropped ears. When the Kennel Club passed the edict forbidding cropping many fanciers rebelled and some gave up the breed. For a number of years those that stuck to it had their work cut out for them to get rid of the large, heavy ear that could be trimmed long and fine with a certainty of its stand- ing erect, and produce in its place the small, thin 160 WORKING TERRIERS ear which makes the best appearance when carried semi-erect. Fanciers finally succeeded in breeding them, and the Black-and-Tan will undoubtedly en- joy a recurrence of popularity. The toy Black-and Tan Terrier is probably more popular to-day than its larger brother, from which it differs only in size, being nothing more or less than a vest-pocket edition. Its show points are the same. It should be simply a miniature, the smaller the better. The regulation weight is seven pounds, but many specimens are under five. In selecting Black-and-Tan Terriers, either large or small, look for a long, flat head, free from stop; a lean skull, small, dark eye; long neck, short back, clean shoulders, straight forelegs, whip tail, and the typical black, glossy coat with tan markings. The following is the standard and scale of points: Heap.—Long, flat, and narrow, level and wedge- shaped, without showing cheek muscles; well filled up under the eyes, with tapering, tightly-lipped jaws and level teeth. Eyes.—Very small, sparkling, and dark, set fairly close together, and oblong in shape. Nose.—Black. Fars.—The correct carriage of the ears is a de- batable point since cropping has been abolished. Probably in the larger breed the drop ear is correct, but for toys either erect or semi-erect carriage of the ear is most desirable. Neck AND SHOULDERS.—The neck should be fairly long, and tapering from the shoulders to the 161 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK head, with sloping shoulders, the neck being free from throatiness, and slightly arched at the occiput. Cuest.—Narrow but deep. Bopy.—Moderately short and curving upward at the loin; ribs well sprung, back slightly arched at the loin and falling again at the joining of the tail to the same height as the shoulders. Lecs.—Must be quite straight, set on well under the dog, and of fair length. Fret.—More inclined to be cat than hare-footed. Tatt.—Moderate length, and set on where the arch of back ends; thick where it joins the body, tapering to a point, and not carried higher than the back. Coat.—Close, smooth, short, and glossy. Cotor.—Jet black and rich mahogany tan, dis- tributed over the body as follows: On the head the muzzle is tanned to the nose, which, with the nasal bone, is jet black; there is also a bright spot on each cheek and above each eye; the underjaw and throat are tanned, and the hair zmside the ear is of the same color; the forelegs tanned up to the knees, with black lines (pencil marks) up each toe, and a black mark (thumb mark) above the foot; izside the hind- legs tanned, but divided with black at the hock joint; and under the tail also tanned; and so is the vent, but only sufficiently to be easily covered by the tail; also slightly tanned on each side of chest. Tan outside of hindlegs—commenly called breech- ing—is a serious defect. In all cases the black should not run into the tan, or vice versa, but the 162 WORKING TERRIERS division between the two colors should be well defined. GENERAL APPEARANCE.—A Terrier calculated to take his own part in the rat pit, and not of the Whip- pet type. WeicutT.—For toys not exceeding 7 pounds; for the large breed, from 16 pounds to 20 pounds is most desirable. THE SMOOTH FOX TERRIER The smart appearance, graceful conformation, and attractive coloring of the Fox Terrier has made him the most popular member of the Terrier family. In tracing the origin of the breed, it is impossible to go far into the past, the late 60’s apparently being the starting point of the modern Fox Terrier. Just what he sprung from is also a sealed book. Possibly it was from the white English Terrier or the Black- and-Tan Terrier crossed upon the Bull Terrier, or the Beagle, and more probably it was from still more heterogeneous sources. The modern Fox Terrier was originated by Fox- hound Masters, who wanted a game little sports- man of uniform size and appearance to replace the nondescript Terriers which were used to bolt the fox that had gone to earth. Before this time any dog that was plucky and whose size would permit him to go to earth was known as a Fox Terrier, no matter what his coat, color, or his general appear- ance might be. There are no Fox Terrier pedigrees which date 163 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK before the 60’s, and there is much doubt and ques- tion connected with some since that time. In the history of the breed there are three dogs which stand out conspicuously, and from them the Fox Terrier as a breed takes descent: Old Jock, Trap, and Tartar. Of these Old Jock was undoubtedly the best. He was exhibited as late as 1870, and was said to have been a smart, well-balanced Terrier, somewhat leggy and wanting in jaw power. Tartar is said to have been much on the Bull Terrier type, while old Trap’s sire is said to have been a Black- and-Tan. It is unquestionable from these ante- cedents that breeders have produced the modern Fox Terrier, a most impressive testimonial to their genius. The question arises whether the Fox Terrier of to-day is as useful and intelligent as his prede- cessors. If there is anything to his name. Terrier, derived from serra, the earth, he should be able to go to ground. This is absolutely precluded by the size of some of the dogs that are shown on the benches, and one of the greatest dangers to the breed lies in the leaning of judges toward the large size, on the grounds of the oft-repeated aphorism that a good big one is always better than a good little one. The fact should never be lost sight of that a Terrier who cannot go to earth is not a Terner: In judging Fox Terriers both smooth and rough, the following standard is used: Heap.—The skull should be flat and moderately 164 WORKING TERRIERS narrow, and gradually decreasing in width to the eyes. Not much “stop” should be apparent, but there should be more dip in the profile between the forehead and top jaw than is seen in the case of a Greyhound. The cheeks must not be full. The ears should be V-shaped and small, of mod- erate thickness and drooping forward close to the cheek, not hanging by the side of the head like a Foxhound. The jaw, upper and lower, should be strong and muscular; should be of fair punishing strength, but not so in any way to resemble the Greyhound or modern English Terrier. There should not be much falling away below the eyes. This part of the head should, however, be moderately chiseled out, so as not to go down in a straight slope like a wedge. The nose, toward which the muzzle must grad- ually taper, should be black. The eyes and the rims should be dark in color, small, and rather deep set, full of fire, life, and in- telligence; as nearly as possible circular-shape. The teeth should be as nearly as possible to- gether, 7. e., the upper teeth on the outside of the lower teeth. Necx.—Should be clean and muscular, without throatiness, of fair length, and gradually widening to the shoulders. SHOULDERS.—Should be long and sloping, well laid back, fine at the points and clearly cut at the withers. 165 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK Cuest.—Deep and not broad. Bacx.—Should be short, straight, and strong, with no appearance of slackness. Lo1n.—Should be very powerful and very slightly arched. The fore ribs should be moderately arched, the back ribs deep, and the dog should be well ribbed up. HinpQuartTers.—Should be strong and muscular, quite free from droop or crouch; the thighs long and powerful; hocks near the ground, the dog stand- ing well up on them like a Foxhound, and not - straight in the stifle. STERN.—Should be set on rather high and carried gaily, but not over the back or curled. It should be of good strength, anything approaching a “pipe stopper” tail being especially objectionable. Lecs.—Viewed in any direction must be straight, showing little or no appearance of ankle in front. They should be strong in bone throughout, short and straight in pastern. Both fore- and hindlegs should be carried straight forward in traveling, the stifles not turned outward. The elbows should hang perpendicularly to the body, working free of the sides. FEeEetT.—Should be round, compact, and not large; the soles hard and tough; the toes moderately arched and turned neither in nor out. Coat.—Should be smooth, flat, but hard, dense, and abundant. The belly and under side of the thighs should not be bare. 166 WORKING TERRIERS Cotor.—White should predominate; brindle, red, or liver markings are objectionable. Otherwise this point is of little or no importance. SYMMETRY, SIZE, AND CHARACTER.—The dog must present a generally gay, lively, and active ap- pearance; bone and strength in a small compass are essentials, but this must not be taken to mean that a Fox Terrier should be cloggy or in any way coarse; speed and endurance must be looked to as well as power, and the Symmetry of the Foxhound taken as a model. The Terrier, like the Hound, must on no account be leggy, nor must he be too short in the leg. He should stand like a cleverly-made hunter, covering a lot of ground, yet with a short back, as before stated. He will then attain the highest degree of propelling power, together with the greatest length of stride that is compatible with the length of his body. Weight is not a certain criterion of a Terrier’s fitness for his work; general shape, size, and contour are the main points; and if a dog can gallop and stay and follow his fox up a drain it matters little what his weight is to a pound or so. Though, roughly speaking, it may be said that he should not scale over twenty pounds in show condition. VaLUE OF Points.—Head and ears, 19; neck, 5; shoulders and chest, 15; back and loin, 10; hind- M@iarters,|5;, stern, §; legs and. feet,, 20; coat, '10; symmetry and character, 15. Total, 100. Disqua.iryinc Points.—Nose: White, cherry, 167 THE ‘COMPLETE DOG BOUER or spotted to a considerable extent with either of these colors. Ears: Prick, tulip, or rose. Mouth: Much undershot or much overshot. THE WIRE-HAIRED FOX TERRIER The Wire-Haired Fox Terrier is identical with his smooth-coated brother, with the single exception of the character of his coat, which should be harder, more wiry, and broken. This coat should not be so long as to make his owner look shaggy, while a coat that is soft and woolly or one that has a suggestion of silky hair about the head or elsewhere cannot be tolerated. The wiry, crisp, and heavy coat is the only distinguishing trait of the breed, so too much importance cannot be attached to its character. It is not unusual to get both smooth and wire-coated specimens out of one litter. For a number of years the Smooth Coats had all the call, but of late the Wires have been coming to the fore rapidly, al- though their preparation for the ring—that is, the trimming of their coats—is an annoying proposition to many breeders. Practically all Wire-Haired Fox Terriers require trimming, and the line between legitimate trimming and faking—and consequent disqualification—is very faint. Under the Kennel Club Rules the free use of the brush and comb are admissable. It is also legitimate to remove dead coat or soft, superfluous hair or long, odd hair from the head, ears, limbs, and body. This is done with the thumb and forefinger and a special comb made for that purpose. The use of clippers, however, to 168 ‘doy, diy, Auuag yD “sat1303 ys[aq—sy 524 Swia, yeomy [TIE SePUg "YD s4etdsa3 XOJ P2ITBY-IM—44y 4amoz S12yIVaAy UOO| ALP “YD ‘Bop dasys ysy3uq pio—rys14 “UIMpooHy AIPEH “YD “Jols93 weydyeag—s/4y waddn ‘piony ayeBpuq “yD “sors493 usiey—uvajuay > ee Sas ae rs ) WORKING TERRIERS even up a coat or the application of rosin, alum, or similar agents to stiffen and harden the coat will, if detected, lead to disbarment. It is a common prac- tice, when a dog is not to be exhibited for some time, to clip him all over, as this has a tendency to strengthen and improve the coat. No objection can be raised to this practice. This variety of the breed should resemble the smooth sort in every respect except the coat, which should be broken. The harder and more wiry of texture the coat is the better. On no account should the dog look or feel woolly, and there should be no silky hair about the poll or elsewhere. The coat should not be too long, so as to give the dog a shaggy appearance, but at the same time it should show a marked and distinct difference all over from the smooth species. THE AIREDALE TERRIER A few years ago there appeared at the dog shows in the north of England a big, useful-looking sort of a Terrier whose ancestors were a cross of the old border Terrier, the Bull Terrier, and the Otter- hound. They were known sometimes as the Water- side Terrier, on account of their fondness for that element, inherited from their Otterhound ancestors. Later they were known as the Bradford Terrier. These dogs were so workmanlike in appearance and had such appealing countenances that they at- tracted the attention of the public, and a club was ‘ormed that promoted their interests and eventually 169 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK settled upon the name of Airedale Terrier, as they were very numerous in the valley of that river. Since then the breed has grown very rapidly in public favor, and deservedly so, for they possess many sterling qualities. The Airedale is the largest of the Terrier family, and will do anything in the way of hunting vermin but go to earth. This their size precludes. They have excellent nose, and will hunt all sorts of game, make splendid rabbit and partridge dogs, can be trained to trail wounded deer, and are used successfully in bear hunting. The Airedale takes to water like a Spaniel, and will retrieve ducks in all kinds of weather. As com- panions they are unexcelled, displaying the utmost devotion to their masters and an interest in all of their affairs. They are wideawake about a house, and take naturally to horses. No more useful breed exists for a country home. In buying one of these dogs do not take one that is shy or listless. Don’t accept one which is soft, scanty, or long-coated. Don’t take one which is weak muzzled or chiseled out below the eye. Don’t choose one with a long back or heavy shoulders. Don’t take one which is out at the elbows or is not perfectly straight in front or clean in bone. Don’t accept one which is light-eyed. Don’t pick one with weak ankles or splay feet. Don’t have any- thing to do with one which has a poor mouth or which lacks in gameness. Don’t choose one which weighs under 38 pounds. The chief points to look for in the selection of 170 WORKING TERRIERS Airedale puppies at from two to four months old and after, are: A long, level head, strong muzzle; small, dark eye; narrow skull; neat, small, V-shaped drop ears; a long neck, narrow shoulders, short body, deep chest, straight forelegs, and hard, dense coat. The standard description and points printed be- low give readers a clear outline of what a perfect Airedale Terrier ought to be: Heap (value 5).—Long, with flat skull, but not too broad between the ears, narrowing slightly to the eyes, free from wrinkle; stop hardly visible, and cheeks free from fullness; jaw deep and power- ful, well filled up before the eyes; lips tight. Fars (5).—V-shaped, with a side carriage; small, but not out of proportion to the size of the dog. Nose (5).—Black. Eyes (¢).—Small and dark in Baler, not prom- inent, and full of Terrier expression, with teeth strong and level. Neck (10).—Should be of moderate length and thickness, gradually widening toward the shoulders and free from throatiness. SHOULDERS AND CueEst.—Shoulders long and slop- ing well into the back; shoulder blades flat, chest deep, but not broad. Bopy anv Back (10).—Short, strong, and straight; ribs well sprung. HINDQUARTERS (10).—Strong and muscular, with no drop; hocks well let down. Tart.—Set on high and carried gaily, but not curled over the back. i THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK Lecs anpD Feet.—Legs perfectly straight, with plenty of bone; feet small and round, with good depth of pad. Coat.—Hard and wiry, and not so long as to appear ragged; it should be also straight and close, covering the dog well over the body and legs. Cotor (10).—The head and ears, with the excep- tion of dark markings on each side of the skull, should be tan, the ears being of a darker shade than the rest, the legs up to the thighs and elbows being tan; the body black or dark grizzle. S1zE.—Dogs, 40 to 45 pounds weight; bitches, slightly less. ScaLE oF Porints.—Head, 5; eye, 5; color, 10; ears, 5; body, loins, and hindquarters, 20; jaw, 10; nose, 5; teeth, 5; legs and feet, 10; neck and shoul- dens;40; coat, 15. Total, 100. THE BEDLINGTON TERRIER This breed in appearance resembles a miniature Deerhound. They originated among the sport- loving miners and gypsies in the north of England, who have bred them for a great many years, and have produced a useful type of dog of undeniable gameness which will cheerfully tackle anything that wears hair. Their looks are against their ever becoming great public favorites, but as all-around workmen in a rough country for rabbit coursing, ferreting, and to work to the gun, they are unequaled. They have exceptionally keen noses, take readily to the water, 172 WORKING TERRIERS are devoted to their masters, but are usually sus- picious of strangers. They have many good qualities which will recommend them to all those who admire a game working Terrier. In buying a Bedlington don’t look at a short- legged, stumpy-built dog, as they should be active and of racy build. Don’t pay any attention to one with bad teeth or a large, full eye. Don’t pick one that has a thin, silky coat that would not protect its owner from water or exposure to the elements. Don’t look at one with a full, rounded body and well- sprung ribs, and, last of all, don’t accept one which is not game as a pebble and an energetic workman. The chief points to look for in the selection of Bedlington puppies at from two to four months old and after, are: A long, snaky head; narrow skull; small eye; drop ears, lying close to the side of the head; short body; short sickle tail; straight fore- legs, and dense lint coat. The standard of the breed is as follows: SkuLL.—Narrow, but deep and rounded; high at occiput, and covered with a nice silky tuft or top-knot. Jaw.—Long, tapering, sharp, and muscular; as little stop as possible between the eyes, so as to form nearly a line from the nose-end along the joint of the skull to the occiput. The lips close-fitting, and no flew. Eyes.—Should be small and well sunk into the head. The blues should have a dark eye; the blue- and-tan ditto, with amber shade, livers, sandies, etc., a light-brown eye. 12 173 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK Nose.—Large, well angled. Blues and blue-and- tans should have black noses; livers and sandies, flesh-colored noses. TEETH.—Level, or pincer-jawed. Ears.—Moderately large, carried well forward, flat to the cheek, thinly covered and tipped with fine, silky hair; they should be filbert-shaped. Lecs.—Of moderate length, not wide apart, straight and square set, and with good-sized feet, which are rather long. TaiL.—Thick at root, tapering to a point, slightly feathered on lower side, g inches to 11 inches long, and scimitar-shaped. Neck AND SHOULDERS.—Neck long, deep at base, rising well from shoulders, which should be flat. Bopy.—Long and well proportioned, flat-ribbed, and deep; not wide in chest; back slightly arched, well ribbed up, with light quarters. Coat.—Hard, with close bottom, and not lying flat to the sides. | Cotor.—Dark blue, blue-and-tan, liver, liver- and-tan, sandy, sandy-and-tan. Heicut.—About 15 to 16 inches. GENERAL APPEARANCE.—A lightly made up, lathy dog, but not shelly. WeicutT.—Dogs, about 24 pounds; bitches, about 22 pounds. 174 WORKING TERRIERS THE SCOTTISH TERRIER Scotland may truly be termed the land of Terriers. A half a dozen or more breeds, all long and low, all rough-coated, and all prick-eared except the Dandie, hail from the land of heather, nor is it extraordinary that Scotland should have so many varieties of Terriers, for it is a country of cave and cleft and cavern, in which Terriers have a wide sphere of usefulness. Dogs, like man, are molded by en- vironment, and it 1s easy to comprehend how a rugged land would develop a rugged dog and a race of men noted world-wide for their steadfast deter- mination, deep-seated affection, and canny intelli- gence naturally have as friends and companions a race of dogs possessing all of their masters’ sturdy characteristics. Scotland’s Terrier is a proud title, but the dogs that bear it are worthy of their name, for the Scot- tish Terrier of to-day is a veritable paragon of game- ness, intelligence, and all-around usefulness on land or water, above or below ground; and with it all he is the most sensible and intelligent of companions. To dive deep into the antiquity of the Scottish Terrier is simply to invite trouble, for the Scottish are a touchy race on everything pertaining to birth and pedigree. They are as loyal to their dogs as they are to their clans. To suggest or intimate that Scotland’s dogs are not as old as their most cherished traditions or that their blood is not as pure as the water in their mountain lakes is sheer heresy. We a i) THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK venture to say, however, that these grand little dogs did not have their birth in any particular locality in Scotland. They are indigenous to all the highlands and descend from the old highland Terrier, a little, long-backed, short-legged, snipy-faced, prick- or crop-eared dog, in color mostly sandy-and-black, game as a pebble, lively as a cricket, and in all a most charming companion. The crosses that were made on this parent stock many years ago were all with the best of working Terriers. No breed of dogs has been more carefully bred than the Scottish Terrier, and to-day they are extraordinarily well fixed in type and characteristics. The enthusiasm expressed by admirers of the breed is well founded. For ratting, ferreting, rabbit- hunting, partridge-treeing, working along hedge- rows or water courses, retrieving from land or water and as all-around assistants to the gun, they are unexcelled. They are cleanly about the house, ex- traordinarily patient with children, the best of guards for house or barn, and distinguish intuitively between the intruder and the casual observer or occasional visitor. In selecting puppies under four months of age, look for a long, level head, a strong jaw, small, dark eye; small, erect ears, carried closely together; short, round body; short sickle tail; great bone; straight forelegs, and a dense, hard coat. The standard is as follows: SKULL (value 7!4).—Proportionately long, slightly domed, 2nd covered with short, hard hair about 34 176 ‘sjouuay 3saqrA Aq pasq sarddng—wamo, 6 TOM P [oof OU “Y—1y844 tosurg sow “YO—soy Swrxey] wejog YD e[Rpasy—sojuar - WORKING TERRIERS inches long or less. It should not be quite flat, as there should be a sort of stop or drop between the eyes. Muzz.e (732).—Very powerful, and gradually tapering toward the nose, which should always be black and of a good size. The jaws should be per- fectly level and the teeth square, though the nose projects somewhat over the mouth, which gives the impression of the upper jaw being longer than the under one. Eyes (5).—A dark brown or hazel-color; small, piercing, very bright, and rather sunken. Fars (5).—Very small, prick or half-prick (the former is preferable), but never drop. They should also. be sharp-pointed, and the hair on them should not be long, but velvety, and they should not be cut. The ears should be free from any fringe at the top. Neck (§).—Short, thick, and muscular, strongly set on sloping shoulders. CueEst (5).—Broad in comparison to the size of the dog, and proportionately deep. Bopy (15).—Of moderate length, but not so long as a Skye’s, and rather flat-sided; well ribbed up, and exceedingly strong in hindquarters. Lecs and Feet (10).—Both fore- and hindlegs should be short and very heavy in bone, the former being straight and well set on under the body, as the Scotch Terrier should not be out at elbows. The hocks should be bent, and the thighs very mus- cular, and the feet strong, small, and thickly covered 177 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK with short hair, the forefeet being larger than the hind ones. Tue Tait (2)4).—Should be about 7 inches long, never docked, carried with a slight bend, and often gaily. Tue Coat (15).—Should be rather short (about two inches), intensely hard and wiry in texture, and very dense all over the body. S1zE (10).—From 15 to 20 pounds, the best weight being as near as possible 18 pounds for dogs and 16 pounds for bitches when in condition for work. CoLor (2%).—Steel or iron-grey, black-brindle, brown-brindle, grey-brindle, black, sandy, and wheaten. White markings are objectionable, and can only be allowed on the chest, and to a small extent. GENERAL APPEARANCE (10).—The face should wear a very sharp, bright, and active expression, and the head should be carried up. The dog, ow- ing to the shortness of his coat, should appear to be higher on the leg than he really is; but at the same time he should look compact and possessed of great muscle in his hindquarters. In fact, a Scottish Terrier, though essentially a Terrier, cannot be too powerfully put together, and should be from about g to 12 inches in height. THE SKYE TERRIER This is one of the oldest breeds in Scotland, hav- ing its origin in the islands from which it now takes its name. The breed was originally called Scottish 178 WORKING TERRIERS Terrier. In fact, all of the Scottish varieties of Terriers were first so designated. Dr. Caius, one of the earliest writers on dogs, indicates the existence and type of the Skye Terrier in his work ‘“‘Englishe Dogges.”” He describes them as “Iseland dogges, brought out of barbarous borders from the utter- most countryes northwards,” and says that “they, by reason of the length of their heare, show neither of their face or their body, and yet these curres, forsooth, because they are so strange, are greatly set by, esteemed, taken up, and made of, in room of the Spaniell gentle or comforter.” The Bishop of Ross, who wrote a little later in the sixteenth century, says: ‘““There is also another kind of scenting dog of low height, but of bulkier body, which, creeping into subterraneous burrows, routs out foxes, badgers, martens, and wildcats from their lurking places and dens,” which doubt- less referred to the ancestors of our modern Skye Terriers. Professor Low describes the dogs of the Island of Skye as follows: ‘The Terriers of the western islands of Scotland have long, lank hair almost trailing to the ground.” This breed has been brought to per- fection as a show dog, but its enormous coat and the size is a distinct disadvantage to the dog in pur- suing his natural calling. Few, if any, show dogs are used for actual work, and therefore it is needless to decry the bench type which are calculated to keep intact the distinctive features and charac- teristics of this game, hard-bitten, and very hand- 179 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK some Terrier. The Skye Terrier is a most com~ panionable and faithful dog to those to whom he attaches himself, although he is not, speaking gen- erally, as open in disposition as his cousin, the Scottie. He is one of the most snappish dogs that goes to a show, and often dangerous to handle. This surliness in the Skye is a natural characteristic, probably inherited, the outcome of nervousness created by the fact that he is buried in such long thick hair that he can scarcely see. The chief points to look for in Skye Terrier puppies from two to four months old and after, are: A long head; strong muzzle; dark eye; long body; well-sprung ribs; deep chest; short, heavy-boned legs, and a profuse coat of good texture. In the prick-eared variety the ears should be bolt upright; and in the drop-eared, the ears should fall forward in the manner of other drop-eared Terriers. The following is the standard laid down by the Skye Terrier Club of Scotland: Heap.—Long, with powerful jaws, and incisive teeth closing level, or upper just fitting over under. Skull wide at front of brow, narrowing between ears, and tapering gradually toward muzzle, with little falling in between or behind the eyes. Eyes hazel, medium size, close set. Muzzle always black. Ears (prick or pendant).—When prick, not large, erect at outer edges, and slanting toward each other at inner, form peak to skull. When pendant, larger, hanging straight, lying flat, and close at front. Bopy.—Pre-eminently long and low. Shoulders 180 WORKING TERRIERS broad, chest deep, ribs well sprung and oval-shaped, giving flattish appearance to sides. Hindquarters and flank full and well developed. Back level and slightly declining from top of hip joint to shoulders. Neck long and gently crested. Tait.—When fanging, upper half perpendicular, under half thrown backward in a curve. When raised, a prolongation of the incline of the back, and not rising nor curling up. Lecs.—Short, straight, and muscular. No dew- claws. Feet large and pointing forward. Coat (double).—An uzder, short, close, soft, and woolly. An over, long, averaging 514 inches, hard, straight, flat, and free from crisp or curl. Hair on head shorter, softer, and veiling forehead and eyes; on ears, overhanging inside, falling down and min- gling with side locks, not heavily, but surrounding the ear like a fringe, and allowing its shape to ap- pear. Tail also gracefully feathered. Color (any variety).—Dark or light-blue or grey, or fawn with black points. Shade of head and legs approximating that of body. Si1zE.—Average height at shoulder, g inches. WeicHT.—Dogs, 18 pounds; bitches, 16 pounds. THE CLYDESDALE TERRIER This breed, originally exhibited as Skye Ter- riers, are simply the more silky-haired specimens of this variety. Skye Terrier enthusiasts have always regarded them as bad-coated specimens, more fitted for the drawing-room than the cairns, just as Fox 181 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK Terrier experts would regard a soft-coated Wire- Haired as a bad Fox Terrier. The silky-coated dog, however, has his devotees, and along in the eighties a division was made in the Skye Terrier classes, the hard-coated, long and low variety being accorded, by weight of public opinion, the title of Skye Terrier, to which their character, working fitness, and tra- dition gave them an irresistible claim, while the leggier and more silky-coated specimens were given the name of Clydesdale or Paisley Terriers. Since then the Clydesdale fanciers have developed the differences in the two dogs and by selection have cultivated the silkiness and lighter colors of the coat, which they have made a sine qua non of the variety. In all other essentials the character and conformation of the two varieties are practically one and the same. The coat of the Clydesdale should be long, straight, and silky; in both texture, color, and quality it should resemble that of the best Yorkshire Terriers, which has been largely used in its manufacture. The chief points to look for in the selection of Clydesdale Terrier puppies are almost identical with those of Skye Terriers. The following is the standard description and code of points formulated by the Skye and Clydesdale Terrier Club, which is purely a Scottish combina- tion, from which it will be seen that color and coat absorb one-half of the complement of 100 points: GENERAL APPEARANCE.—A long, low, level dog with heavily-fringed, erect ears and a long coat like 182 WORKING TERRIERS the finest silk or spun glass, which hangs quite straight and evenly down each side, a parting ex- tending from the nose to the root of the tail. Heap.—Fairly long, skull flat and very narrow between the ears, gradually widening toward the eyes and tapering very slightly to the nose, which must be black. The jaws strong and the teeth level. Eyves.—Medium in size, dark in color; not prom- inent, but having a sharp, Terrier-like expression. Eyelids black. Ears.—Small, set very high on the top of the head, carried perfectly erect, and covered with long, silky hair, hanging in a heavy fringe down the sides of the head. Bopy.—Long, deep in chest, well ribbed up, the back being perfectly level. Tait.—Perfectly straight, carried almost level with the back, and heavily feathered. Lrecs.—As short and straight as possible, well set under the body, and entirely covered with silky hair. Feet round and cat-like. Coat.—As long and straight as possible, free from all trace of curl or waviness; very glossy and silky in texture, with an entire absence of undercoat. Cotor.—A level bright steel-blue extending from the back of the head to the root of the tail, and on no account intermingled with any fawn, light, or dark hairs. The head, legs, and feet should be a clear, bright golden tan, free from grey, sooty, or dark hairs. The tail should be very dark-blue or black. 183 THE COMPLETE) DOG BOOr ScaALE oF Pornts.—Texture of coat, 25; color, 25; head, 10; ears, 10; tail, 10; body, 10; legs and feet, 1o,, Total, 16c THE DANDIE DINMONT TERRIER Originating on the borders of Scotland, and made famous by Sir Walter Scott in his “Guy Manner- ing,” the Dandie partakes in type and character of all of Scotland’s Terriers, being short on leg and long in body. His ears, however, are drooped in- stead of being prick. Doubtless the Dandie and the Border Terrier, which is a smaller dog with drop ears, and with which the Dandie is often con- founded, have a common origin. The Dandie un- doubtedly was a Border Terrier previous to the ap- pearance of Sir Walter Scott’s novel, being kept by such sporting personages as James Davidson, of Hindlee, a friend of Scott’s, who was the original of the character of Dandie Dinmont, immortalized by the novel. The difference in type of the three Border Ter- riers, the recognized Border Terrier (who may or may not be the original), the Bedlington, and the Dandie, is due to breeding by selection and to cross- ing. The Dandie is the one breed who retains most of his Scottish ancestry in body conformation and in head, and his fusion with the English broken- haired terriers is seen in his drop ears. Prick ears are characteristic of all the Scottish varieties of terriers; drop ears are a fixed feature of their English cousins. 184 “aI | Ysan ‘aoey Xe JuLIT[I4g efAuysOTTeg ‘309G Apineg *3309G aIUUIY, x9 pivuog eoulIg ‘YD {3099 A]Joq *SIBIIIDT, PAYS “AOIII], XO postvy-9\4—wopyog “POLIT, XO POTBY-ITAA “TIIIIT, SITY AA PULTYSIF] ISIAA “TOIIIAT YstI0NG “JaIIIO], ystIy—do 7 Lap MORNE OE SIOEL SE REIGATE CEES EN MENG CNB BA * “5 be a a i - *”y, WORKING TERRIERS Some Dandie Dinmont enthusiasts pride them- selves on the purity of their strains, for which they allege they can claim direct descent through the Terriers of Mr. E. Bradshaw Smith, of Ecclefechan, a great enthusiast of the breed in the early and middle part of the nineteenth century, or those of Hugh Purvis, or direct to the “Guy Mannering”’ dogs. Such descent in no way denotes purity, because, it is alleged, for instance, that Purvis crossed his dogs more than once with a brindled Bull Terrier in order to maintain their courage. However, the type of the Dandie has long been so fixed both in color and conformation that occasional crosses have not, according to the records, in any way altered it, and to-day it is more sharply defined than at any other period in its history. The great novelist Scott singularly omitted to give us a definite description of his dogs when he created the “Dandie Dinmont,” but subsequently he wrote: “The race of Pepper and Mustard are in the highest estimation at the present day not only for vermin killing, but for intelligence and fidelity. Those who, like the author, possess a brace of them consider them as very desirable companions.” This proves that Walter Scott kept Dandie Dinmonts, and that he gave a true defini- tion of the dogs’ splendid character and disposition. All those who have ever kept the breed since that time will bear willing testimony to the fact. The Dandie is one of the gamest of Terriers, the most sensible of dogs, and most devoted of canine 185 THE COMPLETE DOG BOCK companions. He is besides a hardy, handy-sized dog, makes a capital house dog, and is just as much at home in the kennel. He is a rough-and-tumble sort, to which nothing comes wrong, the tackling of fox or badger underground or one of his own species above ground, and besides his exceptional power and pluck he stands unexcelled and rarely equaled for common sense and docility. The chief points to look for in the selection of Dandie puppies at from two to four months old and after, are: A moderately short head, strong muzzle, large, dark eye; rather strong, well-beveled skull; close-set, drop ears; strong neck, rather long body, distinct arch of loin, great bone, and short legs. The standard of points of the Dandie Dinmont Terrier are as follows: HeEap.—Strongly made and large, not out of pro- portion to the dog’s size, the muscles showing ex- traordinary development, more especially the max- illary. SKULL broad between the ears, getting gradually less toward the eyes, and measuring about the same from the inner corner of the eye to back of skull as it does from ear to ear. The forehead well domed. The head is covered with very soft, silky hair, which should not be confined to a mere topknot, and the lighter in color and silkier it is the better. Tue CHEEKS, starting from the ears, propor- tionately with the skull, have a gradual taper to- ward the muzzle, which is deep and strongly made, 186 WORKING TERRIERS and measures about three inches in length, or in proportion to skull as three is to five. Tue Muzz_e 1s covered with hair of a little darker shade than the topknot and of the same texture as the feather of the forelegs. The top of the muzzle is generally bare for about an inch from the back part of the nose, the bareness coming to a point toward the eye, and being about one inch broad at the nose. The nose and inside of mouth black or dark color. Tue TrEEetTH.—Very strong, especially the canine, which are of extraordinary size for such a small dog. The canines fit well into each other, so as to give the greatest available holding and punishing power, and the teeth are level in front, the upper ones very slightly overlapping the under ones. (Many of the finest specimens have a “swine mouth,” which is very objectionable, but it is not so great an objec- tion as the protrusion of the under jaw.) Eyes.—Set wide apart, large, full, round, bright, expressive of great determination, intelligence, and dignity; set low and prominent in front of the head; color, a rich, dark hazel. Fars.—Pendulous, set well back, wide apart, and low on the skull, hanging close to the cheek, with a very slight projection at the base; broad at the junction of the head and tapering almost to a point, the fore part of the ear tapering very little, the taper- ing being mostly on the back part, the fore part of the ear coming almost straight down from its junc- tion with the head to the tip. They should har- 187 THE COMPLETE DOG, BOGE monize in color with the body color. In the case of a Pepper dog they are covered with a soft, straight, brownish hair (in some cases almost black). In the case of a Mustard dog the hair should be mustard in color, a shade darker than the body, but not black. All should have a thin feather of light hair starting about two inches from the tip and of nearly the same color and texture as the topknot, which gives the ear the appearance of a distinct point. The animal is often one or two years old before the feather is shown. The cartilage and skin of the ear should not be thick, but rather thin. Length of ear from three to four inches. | Necx.—Very muscular, well developed, and strong, showing great power of resistance, being well set into the shoulders. Bopy.—Long, strong, and flexible; ribs well sprung and round; chest well developed and let well down between the forelegs; the back rather low at the shoulders, having a slight downward curve and a corresponding arch over the loins, with a very slight, gradual drop from top of loins to root of tail; both sides of backbone well supplied with muscle. Tatt.—Rather short, say from eight to ten inches, and covered on the upper side with wiry hair of darker color than that of the body, the hair on the under side being lighter in color and not so wiry, with nice feather about two inches long, getting shorter as it nears the tip; rather thick at the root, getting thicker for about four inches, then tapering off to a point. It should not be twisted or curled in On 150 WORKING TERRIERS any way, but should come up with a curve like a scimitar, the tip, when excited, being in a perpen- dicular line with the root of the tail. It should neither be set on too high nor too low. When not excited it is carried gaily and a little above the level of the body. Lecs.—The forelegs short, with immense mus- cular development and bone, set wide apart, the chest coming well down between them. The feet well formed and not flat, with very strong brown or dark-colored claws. Bandy legs and flat feet are objectionable. The hair on the fore legs and feet of a Pepper dog should be tan, varying according to the body color from a rich tan to a pale fawn; of a Mustard dog they are of a darker shade than its head, which is a creamy white. In both colors there is a nice feather about two inches long, rather lighter in color than the hair on the fore part of the leg. The hind legs are a little longer than the fore ones, and are set rather wide apart, but not spread out in an unnatural manner, while the feet are much smaller; the thighs are well developed, and the hair of the same color or texture as the fore ones, but having no feather or dewclaws; the whole claws should be dark, but the claws of all vary in shade according to the color of the dog’s body. Coat.—This is a very important point. The hair should be about two inches long; that from skull to root of tail a mixture of hardish and soft hair which gives a sort of crisp feel to the hand. The hair should not be wiry; the coat is what is termed pily or 18 189 THE, COMPLE LE DOG BOOK penciled. The hair on the under part of the body is lighter in color and softer than on the top. The skin on the belly accords with the color of dog. Cotor.—The color is Pepper or Mustard. The Pepper ranges from a dark bluish-black to a light silvery-grey, the intermediate shades being pre- ferred, the body color coming well down the shoulder and hips, gradually merging into the leg color. The Mustards vary from a reddish-brown to a pale fawn, the head being a creamy white, the legs and feet of a shade darker than the head. The claws are dark as in other colors. (Nearly all Dandie Dinmont Terriers have some white on the chest, and some have also white claws.) S1zE.—The height should be from eight to eleven inches at the top of shoulder. Length from top of shoulder to root of tail should not be more than twice the dog’s height, but preferably one or two inches less. Weicut.—From fourteen pounds to twenty-four pounds, the best weight as near eighteen pounds as possible. These weights are for dogs in good work- ing condition. The relative value of several points in the standard are apportioned as follows: Head, 10; eyes, 10; ears, 10; neck, 5; bodyyyaes tail, ¢; legs and feet, 10; coat, 15; color, 5; Size and weight, 5; general appearance, 5. Total, 100. 190 WORKING TERRIERS THE WEST HIGHLAND WHITE TERRIER These hardy little dogs are native to Argyleshire and the west coast of Scotland, sections of the coun- try that are the natural home of the fox, the wild- cat, the badger, and the otter. It is a great mistake to believe that these dogs, on account of their general similarity in conforma- tion, are an offshoot of the Scottish Terrier, pro- duced by breeding together the albino sports, which are common in northern latitudes. On the contrary, the White Highland Terrier was of established type and ancestry years before the present Scottish Terrier had emerged from his heterogeneous an- cestry. Three hundred years ago King James the First of England wrote to Edinburgh to have half a dozen Terriers procured from Argyle and sent to France as a present, and there are other records to show that as early as sixteen hundred these white terriers of Argyle and the wind-swept western coast were the best in Scotland. The West Highland Terrier has always been a workman. His conformation permits him to work through the crevices, under the rocks, and to go to earth after his prey, and he has the pluck to do so. The small, compact bodies of these dogs encompass an unusual amount of Terrier character. It is im- portant that the jaws and teeth be strong, the feet slightly turned out, as better adapted for scrambling up rocks than a straight fox terrier foot. Igl THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK Their color is most natural, for white has always been a favorite for working dogs as most easily dis- tinguished. For a time these dogs were shown as Poltalloch Terriers, as a strain of unusual excellence was owned in that section for many years. Good specimens are to be found, however, at various places on the west coast. In summing up this breed it can be said that they are intelligent, faithful, and as persistent in pursuit of prey and as desperate fighters as any dog that lives. In the selection of White Highland Terrier puppies at the age of four months the same points should be looked for as in Scottish Terriers, with the variation in color. The following is the standard and scale of points: GENERAL APPEARANCE of the West Highland White Terrier is that of a small, game, hardy- looking Terrier, possessed with no small amount of self-esteem, with a varminty appearance, strongly built, deep in chest and back ribs, straight back, and powerful quarters on muscular legs, and ex- hibiting in a marked degree a great combination of strength and activity. The coat should be about 21% inches long, white in color, hard, with plenty of soft undercoat, and no tendency to wave or curl. The tail should be as straight as possible, and car- ried not too gaily, and covered with hard hair, but not bushy. The skull should not be too broad, being in proportion to the terribly powerful jaws, but must be narrow between the ears. The ears shall 192 WORKING TERRIERS be as small and sharp-pointed as possible and car- ried tightly up and must be absolutely erect. The eyes of moderate size, dark hazel in color, widely placed, rather sunk or deep-set, with a sharp, bright, intelligent expression. The muzzle should be pro- portionately long and powerful, gradually tapering toward the nose. The nose, roof of mouth, and pads of feet distinctly black in color. CoLtor.—Pure white; any other color objec- tionable. Coat.—Very important, and seldom seen to per- fection; must be double-coated. The outer coat consists of hard hair about two inches long and free from any curl. The undercoat, which resembles fur, is short, soft, and close. Open coats are ob- jectionable. S1zE.—Dogs to weigh from 14 to 18 pounds, and bitches from 12 to 16 pounds, and measure from 8 to 12 inches at the shoulder. SkuLL.—Should not be too narrow, being in pro- portion to his powerful jaw, proportionately long, slightly domed, and gradually tapering to the eyes, between which there should be a slight indentation or stop; eyebrows heavy. Eyes.—Widely set apart, medium in size, dark hazel in color, slightly sunk in the head, sharp and intelligent, which, looking from under the heavy eyebrows, give a piercing look. Full eyes and also light-colored eyes are very objectionable. Muzzie.—Should be powerful, proportionate in length, and should gradually taper toward the nose, Bee) THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK which should be fairly wide. The jaws level and powerful, the teeth square or evenly met, well set, and large for the size of the dog. The nose and roof of mouth should be distinctly black 1n color. Ears.—Small, carried erect, but never drop, and should be carried tightly up, terminating in a sharp point. The hair on them should be’ short, smooth (velvety), and they should not be cut. The ears should be free from any fringe at the top. Round- pointed, broad, and large ears are very objection- able, also ears too heavily covered with hair. Necx.—Muscular and nicely set on sloping shoul- ders. Cuest.—Very deep, with breadth in proportion to the size of the dog. Bopy.—Compact, straight back, ribs deep and well arched in the upper half of rib, presenting a flattish side appearance; loins broad and strong; hindquarters strong, muscular, and wide across the top. Bee. AND FeEer.— Both forelegs and _ hindlegs should be short and muscular. The shoulder blades should be comparatively broad and well sloped backward. The points of the shoulder blades should be closely knit into the backbone, so that every little movement of them should be noticeable when the dog is walking. The elbow should be close in to the body, both when moving or standing, thus causing the foreleg to be well placed in under the shoulder. The forelegs should be straight and 194 WORKING TERRIERS thickly covered with short, hard hair. The hind- legs should be short and sinewy. The thighs very muscular and not too wide apart. The hocks bent and well set in under the body, so as to be fairly close to each other either when standing, walking, or trotting. The fore feet are larger than the hind ones, are round, proportionate in size, strong, thickly padded, and covered with short, hard hair. The hind feet are smaller and thickly padded. The under surface of the pads of feet and all the nails should be distinctly black in color. Hocks too much bent (cow hocks) detract from the general appear- ance. Straight or weak hocks, both kinds are un- desirable and-should be guarded against. Tatt.—Five or six inches long, covered with hard hairs, no feather, as straight as possible, car- ried gaily, but not curled over back. A long tail is objectionable. Movement.—Should be free, straight, and easy all around. In front the leg should be freely ex- tended forward by the shoulder. The hind move- ment should be free, strong, and close. The hocks should be freely flexed and drawn close in under the body, so that when moving off the foot the body is thrown or pushed forward with some force. Stiff, stilty movement behind is very objectionable. VALUE oF Points.—General appearance, 5; color, GO; coat, 10; size, 734’; skull, 714; eyes, 5; muzzle, §; ears, 7; neck, 734; chest, 714; body, 10; legs and feet, 714; tail, 5; movement, 71%. 195 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK FauLts Coat.—Any silkiness, wave, or tendency to curl is a serious blemish, as is also an open coat, and any black, grey, or wheaten hairs. S1zE.—Any specimens under the minimum weight or above the maximum weight are objectionable. Eyes.—Full or light colored. Ears.—Round-pointed, drop, semi-erect, also ears too heavily covered with hair. Muzzie.—Either under- or overshot, and de- fective teeth. THE IRISH TERRIER Although there is the usual mystery about the exact origin of the Irish Terrier, his excitable tem- perament, keen intelligence, pluck, and determina- tion as well as his sociable and vivacious instinct clearly indicate that he is a worthy product of the country whose name he bears. In Ireland this breed is used for bolting foxes and for vermin and rabbit hunting. They have no superior as companions, and are game, all-around sporting propositions, ready to take an active part in anything resembling sport or pleasure. They are undoubtedly a very old breed of dogs, and present-day bench show winners are not unlike those depicted in the sporting scenes of half a century ago. At the present time red is the most fashionable color. The wheaten color specimens that come out from time to time as a rule have softer coats than the reds. The Irish Terrier as a breed have an 196 WORKING TERRIERS expression peculiar to themselves, and a good one is sometimes referred to as having the map of Ireland on his face, the chiseling of the head being a little stronger than either the Airedale or the Fox Terrier, without being at all coarse; their eyes should be hazel rather than very dark. In selecting Irish Terrier puppies look for a long, level head, a strong muzzle, a rather narrow skull, dark eyes; small, neat V-shaped ears; short back, narrow shoulders, straight forelegs with plenty of bone, and strong, well-knit feet. The coat should be hard to the touch and not too long. The puppies that are dark in color and have the shortest coats usually develop the best, and a little white on the chest is no real detriment. The following is the standard and scale of points: Heapv.—Long; skull flat, and rather narrow be- tween the ears, getting slightly narrower toward the eye; free from wrinkles; stop hardly visible except in profile. The jaw must be strong and muscular, but not too full in the cheek, and of a good punishing length. There should be a slight falling away below the eye, so as not to have a Greyhound appearance. Hair on face of same description as on body, but short (about a quarter of an inch long), in appear- ance almost smooth and straight; a slight beard is the only longish hair (and it is only long in compar- ison with the rest) that is permissible, and that is characteristic. TreETH.—Should be strong and level. Lips.—Not so tight as a Bull Terrier’s, but well 197 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK fitting, showing through the hair their black lin- ing. Ties be black. Eyes.—A dark hazel color, small, not prominent, and full of life, fire, and intelligence. Ears.—Small and V-shaped, of moderate thick- ness, set well on the head, and dropping forward closely to the cheek. The ear must be free of fringe, and the hair thereon shorter and darker in color than the body. Necx.—Should be of a fair length, and gradually widening toward the shoulders, well carried, and free of throatiness. There is generally a slight sort of frill visible at each side of the neck, running nearly to the corner of the ear. SHOULDERS AND Cuest.—Shoulders must be fine, long, and sloping well into the back; the chest deep and muscular, but neither full nor wide. | Back anp Loin.—Body moderately long; back should be strong and straight, with no appearance of slackness behind the shoulders; the loin broad and powerful and slightly arched; ribs fairly sprung, rather deep than round, and well-ribbed back. HinpQuartTers.—Should be strong and muscular, thighs powerful, hocks near ground, stifles mod- erately bent. STERN.—Generally docked; should be free of fringe or feather, but well covered with rough hair; set on pretty high, carried gaily, but not over the back or curled. FrereT anD Lecs.—Feet should be strong, toler- 198 WORKING TERRIERS ably round, and moderately small; toes arched, and neither turned out nor in; black toenails most de- sirable. Legs moderately long, well set from the shoulders, perfectly straight, with plenty of bone and muscle; the elbows working freely clear of the sides; pasterns short and straight, hardly notice- able. Both fore and hind legs should be moved straight forward when traveling, the stifles not turned outwards, the legs free of feather, and covered, like the head, with as hard a texture of coat as body, but not so long. Coat.—Hard and wiry, free of softness or silki- ness, not so long as to hide the outlines of the body, particularly in the hindquarters; straight and flat, no shagginess, and free of lock or curl. Cotor.—Should be ‘‘whole-colored,” the most preferable being bright red, red, wheaten, or yellow- red. White sometimes appears on chest and feet; it is more objectionable on the latter than on the chest, as a speck of white on chest is frequently to be seen in all self-colored breeds. S1zE AND SymMMEtTRY.—The most desirable weight in show condition is: for a dog, 24 pounds, and for a bitch, 22 pounds. The dog must present an active, lively, lithe, and wiry appearance; lots of substance, at the same time free of clumsiness, as speed and endurance as well as power are very essential. They must be neither “‘cloddy nor cobby,” but should be framed on the “lines of speed,”’ showing a graceful “racing outline.” | TEMPERAMENT.—Dogs that are very game are 199 THE, COMPLETE DOG Boot usually surly or snappish. The Irish Terrier as a breed is an exception, being remarkably good- tempered, notably so with mankind, it being ad- mitted, however, that he is perhaps a little too ready to resent interference on the part of other dogs. There is a heedless, reckless pluck about the Irish Terrier which is characteristic, and, coupled with the headlong dash, blind to consequences, with which he rushes at his adversary, has earned for the breed the proud epithet of “the dare devils.” When “‘off duty” they are characterized by a quiet, caress-inviting appearance, and when one sees them endearingly, timidly pushing their heads into their masters’ hands it is difficult to realize that on occa- sions, at the “set on,” they can prove they have the courage of a lion and will fight unto the last breath in their bodies. They develop an extraordinary de- votion to, and have been known to track their masters almost incredible distances. ScaLE or Poinrs.—Head, ears, and expression, 20; legs and feet, 15; neck, 5; shoulders and chest, 10; back and in 55 hindquarters and stern, I0; coat, 15; color, 10; size and symmetry, 10. Total, 100. White nails, toes, and feet, minus 10; much white on chest, minus 10; dark shadings on face, minus 5; mouth undershot or cankered, minus 10; coat shaggy, curly, or soft, minus 10; uneven in ‘color, minus 5. Total, 50. 200 WORKING TERRIERS THE WELSH TERRIER This handy breed is one of the smartest of guards and companions, and particularly keen on any- thing in the vermin line. They are indigenous to the country whose name they bear, and are undoubt- edly of considerable antiquity and have been bred true to type for the last thirty years. At one time they were exhibited as old English broken-haired Terriers, and at another time certain fanciers at- tempted crossing with the wire-haired fox terrier, with the object of securing longer heads. The Welsh Terrier Club, however, took a very strong position against cross-bred dogs and refused to recognize any dogs whose pedigrees were not pure Welsh. Thereby they have succeeded admirably in preserv- ing all of the older characteristics of the breed. There is no better working terrier than the Welsh- man. They are not quarrelsome, show very little jealousy, can be kenneled and exercised together better than any other breed, and as a breed are dead game. They are not so easily aroused or excited as fox terriers or an Irishman, but once get them started and they are afraid of nothing on earth and will go through to the finish. They are splendid water dogs, very affectionate companions, and no better guards nor more capable assistants to the gun will be found in the terrier family. The Welsh Terrier 1n appearance is a small, beautifully proportioned, and useful dog of about twenty pounds weight, with a sporty look and a 201 THE COMPLETE, DOG BOOK keen, intelligent, lively disposition. They should have straight forelegs and cat-like feet. Their heads are shorter than either the Fox Terrier, the Irish Terrier, or Airedale, but as a rule they run truer in coat and color. The chief points to look for in the selection of Welsh Terrier puppies at from two to four months old are almost identical with those detailed for Wire-haired Fox Terriers, with the variation of color. The following is the standard description adopted by the Welsh Terrier Club since the year 1886: Heav.—The skull should be flat and rather wider between the ears than the Wire-haired Fox Terrier. The jaw should be powerful, clean-cut, rather deeper, and more punishing, giving the head a more masculine appearance than that usually seen on a Fox Terrier. Stop not too defined; fair length from stop to end of nose, the latter being of a black color. Fars.—The ear should be V-shaped, small, not too thin, set on fairly high, carried forward and close to the cheek. Eyes.—-The eye should be small, not being too deeply set in or protruding out of skull; of a dark color, expressive and indicating abundant pluck. Necx.—The neck should be of moderate length and thickness, slightly arched, and sloping grace- fully into the shoulders. Bopy.—The back should be short and well ribbed up, the loin strong, good depth, and moderate width of chest. The shoulders should be long, 202 WORKING TERRIERS sloping, and well set back. The hindquarters should be strong, thighs muscular, and of good length, with the hocks moderately straight, well let down, and fair amount of bone. The stern should be set on moderately high, but not too gaily carried. Lecs anD Freer.—The legs should be straight and muscular, possessing fair amount of bone, with up- right and powerful pasterns. The feet should be small, round, and cat-like. Coat.—The coat should be wiry, hard, very close, and abundant. Cotor.—The color should be black-and-tan, or black grizzle-and-tan, free from black penciling on toes. SizE.—The height at shoulder should be 15 inches for dogs; bitches proportionately less. Twenty pounds shall be considered a fair average weight in working condition, but this may vary a pound or so either way. THE SEALYHAM TERRIER For many years this attractive breed of Terriers has been carefully bred by a small group of British sportsmen who have cherished them for their ad- mirable working qualities, and have never been in- terested in the fads or the mandates of the bench- show world. It may be stated without fear of con- tradiction that no breed is better adapted to go to earth, and that, pound for pound, they represent as much determination and dead game courage as any dog that lives. 203 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK A few years ago a number of prominent bench- show fanciers became interested in the breed and brought them to the notice of the public. Since then they have enjoyed considerable vogue on both sides of the water, for they are sporty little prop- ositions and the most entertaining and useful of companions. The standard is as follows: The Sealyham should be the embodiment of power and determination in a Terrier. Of extraor- dinary substance for its size, yet free from clumsi- ness. The ideal being the combination of the Dandie Dinmont with a Bull Terrier of twenty pounds; otherwise any resemblance to a Fox Terrier in either make, shape, character, or expression should be heavily penalized. Heap.—The skull unusually wide between the ears (this being a characteristic of both the Dandie and the Bull Terrier), slightly rounded and domed, with practically no stop, and a slight indentation running down between the brows. Long, powerful level jaws, wider and heavier than in a Fox Terrier, the upper finishing in a large, black nose with wide nostrils. Bopy.—Comparatively short between back of neck and set-on of tail, but of good length from the junction of the humerous and shoulder blades to the back of the hindquarters, thus giving great flexibility. Very deep, well ribbed up, with com- paratively wide front; the chest well let down be- 204 WORKING TERRIERS tween the forelegs, giving large heart and lung room, the latter being very important for a dog that has to stay long underground. Coat.—Dense overcoat, the top being hard and wiry, considerably longer than that which a Wire- haired Fox Terrier is shown with, especially on head, throat, and neck. Ears.—Of medium size, set on low, and carried closely against the cheek. This is a very important point, as high-setting and forward carriage gives a Fox Terrier character and expression, and is usually indicative of that blood. HinpQuarters.—Wide and massive, with strong second thighs and backs extremely well bent. Lecs.—Short, heavily boned, the forelegs as straight as is consistent with the body, being well let down between them. FEeret.—Of medium size, round, with thick pads, and very strong nails. The fore feet being larger, though not quite so long as the hind. Eyes.—Set somewhat wide apart, of medium size, and very dark. TEETH.—Strong, large, and square, the canines fitting closely between each other.. Undershot or much overshot jaws should be a disqualification. Necx.—Of medium length, but extremely strong and muscular. Tatt.—Docked and carried gaily. Cotor.—All white, or white with lemon, tan, brindle, or badger-pied markings on head and ears. 205 14 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK (Black 1s objectionable, even on head and ears; a large black spot on the body should almost be a disqualification as showing Fox Terrier blood.) S1zE.—Dogs between nine inches and twelve inches at the shoulder; bitches somewhat smaller. Weight being no criterion, as a thirteen-inch dog might weigh only fourteen pounds and a ten-inch twenty-four pounds. THE WHITE ENGLISH TERRIER This is a comparatively new breed, and is the only Terrier that bears the national name. There is no evidence to show where it originally sprang from, who produced it, or for what reason. Before the institution of dog shows the generic term “Terrier” was applied to all earth dogs, and it would be difficult to prove that a white Terrier re- sembling those now under consideration existed at that time. There is little difference between the white English Terrier and the Manchester black- white-and-tan, except in color, for they are of similar shape and general character. The standard as laid down by the White English Terrier Club is as follows: Heap.—Narrow, long, and level; almost flat skull, without cheek muscles, wedge-shaped, well filled up under the eyes, tapering to the nose, and not lippy. Eyes.—Small and black, set fairly close together, and oblong in shape. Nose.—Perfectly black. Ears.—Cropped and standing perfectly erect. 206 WORKING TERRIERS Neck AND SHouLpEerRs.—The neck should be fairly long and tapering from the shoulders to the head, with sloping shoulders, the neck being free - from throatiness, and slightly arched at the occiput. Cuest.—Narrow and deep. Bopy.—Short and curving upward at the loins; sprung out behind the shoulders, back slightly arched at loins, and falling again at the joining of the tail to the same height as the shoulders. Lrecs.—Perfectly straight and well under the body, moderate in bone, and of proportionate length. FeetT.—Feet nicely arched, with toes set well to- gether, and more inclined to be round than hare- footed. Tait.—Moderate length, and set on where the arch of the back ends, thick where it joins the body, tapering to a point, and not carried higher than the back. Coat.—Close, hard, short, and glossy. Cotor.—Pure white; colored marking to dis- qualify. 3 ConpiTion.—Flesh and muscles to be hard and firm. WeicutT.—F rom 12 to 20 pounds. 207 SPECIALTY DOGS THE BULLDOG Tue origin of the Bulldog is closely associated with the Mastiff; in fact, he was originally a smaller variety that was used for bull baiting, the larger variety being used in battles with the bear. Jesse says the first mention of a Bulldog occurs in 1631 or 1632 in a letter written by Prestwich Eaton, of St. Sebastian to George Wellingham, London, asking for a good Mastiff and two good Bulldogs. The sport of bull baiting was initiated with the dis- appearance of the wild oxen from the woods in the reign of King John, toward the close of the twelfth or beginning of the thirteenth century. We read that: ‘‘William, Earl Warren, Lord of Stamford, standing upon the castle walls of this town, saw two bulls fighting for a cow in the meadow. The butcher’s dog pursued one of the bulls, which, maddened with the noise and the multitude, galloped through the town. This sight so pleased the Earl that he gave the meadows, called the Castle Mead- ows, where first the duel began, for a common to the butchers of the town, on condition that they find a mad bull six weeks before Christmas for the continuance of the sport every year.” “Bull baiting,” writes Marples, “became a very fashionable British sport, and was at one time pat- ronized by persons of the very highest rank, from 208 *sSooULIg UOpa|s] XP dULIg aJoW]azep{ “usoUTA JUIeS "YD S19UMO ‘yivq “] Jouary “eipéy] xa uewaply ayy “uory Aingaspag ‘yD ‘eyonayy Asupoy xa sJapyonqysems AdIqny SSIfA] JUNOWTAUTA "YQ—MONJ0g *YDO[D YPRaZy xo JIWAOF] Youoirg yeep “YD ‘ousMny woxng xo AQGON INapessequiy,T “snp JaiMag ‘[eIaq JOATIG x9 sdUlIg sJoW]IzeH SuAMazETy 2uoaN ‘y9— doy, ‘OOdTING AH] SPECIALTY DOGS the King and Queen of England down, just as bull fighting in Spain is to-day the leading and most fashionable sport, in which matadors take the place of Bulldogs. As the sport developed and became popular, naturally the breeding of dogs best adapted for bringing down the bull followed, and in this way originals of our present-day Bulldogs were evolved, but of course not so pronounced in type nor so per- fectly fitted structurally and anatomically for their specific avocation. It was no doubt found that a less heavy and more agile dog than a Mastiff would be better for the purpose, and either smaller speci- mens would be used or the Mastiff became dwarfed by crossing, probably with a terrier. As the bull always attacks his canine foes head down so as to catch them up with his horns, the dogs would be taught to seize him by the nose, which indeed would be the natural mode of attack of the dog in such circumstances. The type of dog that would be sug- gested to careful students of the sport, even in the old days, would be a low-set, powerful-fronted and jawed dog, with light quarters, and whose nose receded from his lower jaw to enable him to breathe while hanging on his quarry, his light hindquarters further assisting him in hanging on the bull, whose habit in such circumstances invariably is to whirl the dog in the air in his frantic endeavor to shake him off.” Theoretically, the Bulldog may be anatomically adapted to holding bulls, but the present show dogs are simply exaggerated monstrosities that by no 209 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK possible stretch of the imagination could either catch or hold a bull or escape his feet and horns. The modern Bulldog cannot be accepted as any- thing more than a conspicuous example of the breeder’s art. They have lost, however, none of their old-time courage and tenacity, and will go to their death as cheerfully as their ancestors did three hundred years ago. Bulldogs are not fierce in dis- position; in fact, they are among the kindest of the canine race, free from treachery, and the most faithful of companions, all of which in a great measure accounts for their popularity. The chief points to look for in the selection of Bulldog puppies at from two to four months old and after, are: A massive head, with long, sweep- ing underjaw, well turned up, not necessarily short nose, but must be retroussé—laid well back, massive, broad foreface, big skull, little ears, short back and tail, short legs, with enormous bone. The following are the description and standard as approved by the English Bulldog Club of Amer- ica: GENERAL APPEARANCE, APTITUDE, EXPRESSION, Erc.—The perfect Bulldog must be of medium size and smooth coat, with heavy, thick-set, low-swung body; massive, short-faced head; wide shoulders and sturdy limbs. The general appearance and attitude should suggest great stability, vigor, and strength. The disposition should be equable and kind, reso- lute and courageous (not vicious or aggressive), and the demeanor should be pacific and dignified. 210 SPECIAL EY: DOGS These attributes should be countenanced by the expression and behavior. Gair.—The style and carriage are peculiar, his gait being a loose-jointed, shuffling, sidewise motion, giving the characteristic “roll.” The action must, however, be unrestrained, free, and vigorous. PROPORTION AND SyMMETRY.—The “points” should be well distributed and bear good relation one to the other, no feature being in such promi- nence from either excess or lack of quality that the animal appears deformed or illy proportioned. INFLUENCE OF SEx.—In comparison of specimens of different sex due allowance should be made in favor of the bitches, which do not bear the char- acteristics of the breed to the same degree of per- fection and grandeur as do the dogs. SizE.—The size for mature dogs is about 50 pounds; for mature bitches, about 40 pounds. Coat.—The coat should be straight, short, flat, close, of fine texture, smooth and glossy. (No fringe, feather, or curl.) Cotor or Coat.—The color of coat should be uniform, pure of its kind, and brilliant. The various colors found in the breed are to be preferred in the following order: (1) Red brindle; (2) all other brindles; (3) solid white; (4) solid red, fawn, or fallow; (5) piebald; (6) inferior qualities of all the foregoing. (Note.—A perfect piebald is preferable to a muddy brindle or defective solid color.) Solid black is very undesirable, but not so objec- 211 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK tionable if occurring to a moderate degree in piebald patches. The brindles, to be perfect, should have a fine, even, and equal distribution of the composite colors. In brindles and solid colors a small white patch on the chest is not considered detrimental. In piebalds the color patches should be well defined, of pure color, and symmetrically distributed. Sxin.—The skin should be soft and loose, es- pecially at the head, neck, and shoulders. WRINKLE AND Dewtap.—The head and face should be covered with heavy wrinkles, and at the throat, from jaw to chest, there should be two loose, pendulous folds forming the dewlap. SxuLL.—The skull should be very large, and in circumference in front of the ears should measure at least the height of the dog at the shoulders. Viewed from the front, it should appear very high from the corner of the lower jaw to the apex of the skull, and also very broad and square. Viewed from the side, the head should appear very high and very short from the point of the nose to occiput. The forehead should be flat (not rounded nor “domed’’), neither too prominent nor overhanging the face. CuEeeks.—The cheeks should be well rounded, protruding sidewise and outward beyond the eyes. Stop.—The temples of frontal bones should be very well defined, broad, square, and high, causing a hollow or groove between the eyes. This indenta- tion or stop should be both broad and deep, and ex- tend up to the middle of the forehead, dividing the 212 SPECTRAL TY DOGS head vertically, being traceable to the top of the skull. Eyes anp Eye.ips.—The eyes, seen from the front, should be situated low down in the skull as far from the ears as possible, and their corners should be in a straight line at right angles with the stop. They should be quite in front of the head, as wide apart as possible, provided their outer corners are within the outline of the cheeks when viewed from the front. They should be quite round in form, of moderate size, neither sunken nor bulging, and in color should be very dark. The lids should cover the white of the eyeball when the dog is looking directly forward, and the lid should show no “haw.” Ears.—The ears should be set high in the head, the front inner edge of each ear joining the outline of the skull at the top back corner of skull, so as to place them as wide apart and as high and as far from the eyes as possible. In size they should be small and thin. The shape termed “rose ear’ is the most desirable. The “rose ear” folds inward at its back lower edge, the upper front edge curving over, outward, and backward, showing part of the inside of the burr. (The ears should not be carried erect or “prick-eared’’ or “‘buttoned,” and should never be cropped.) Face.—The face, measured from the edge of the cheek bone to the tip of nose, should be extremely short, the muzzle being very short, broad, turned upward, and very deep from the corner of the eye to the corner of the mouth. 213 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK Nose.—The nose should be large, broad, and black, its tip being set back deeply between the eyes. The distance from the bottom of stop between the eyes to the tip of the nose should be as short as possible, and not exceed the length from the tip of the nose to the edge of under lip. The nostrils should be wide, large, and black, with a well-defined line between them. (The parti-color or “butterfly nose” and the flesh-color or “Dudley nose” are de- cidedly objectionable, but do not disqualify for competition.) Cuops.—The chops or “flews” should be thick, broad, pendant, and very deep, completely over- hanging the lower jaw at each side. They join the under lip in front and almost or quite cover the teeth, which should be scarcely noticeable when the mouth is closed. Jaws.—The jaws should be massive, very broad, square, and “undershot,” the lower jaw projecting considerably in front of the upper jaw, and running up. Tretu.—The teeth should be large and strong, with the canine teeth or tusks wide apart, and the six small teeth in front, between the canines, in an even, level row. Necx.—The neck should be short, very thick, deep, and strong, and well arched at the back. SHOULDERS.—The shoulders should be muscular, very heavy, wide-spread, and slanting outward, giving stability and great power. Cuest.—The chest should be very broad, deep, and full. 214 SPECIALTY: DOGS Brisket AND Bopy.—The brisket and body should be very capacious, with full sides, well-rounded ribs, and very deep from the shoulders down to its lowest part, where it joins the chest. It should be well let down between the shoulders and forelegs, giving the dog a broad, low, short-legged appearance. The body should be well ribbed up behind, with the belly tucked up and not rotund. Bacx.—The back should be short and strong, very broad at the shoulders and comparatively nar- row at the loins. Behind the shoulders there should be aslight fallin the back, close the top of which should be higher than the top of the shoulders, thence curving again more suddenly to the tail, forming an arch (a very distinctive feature of the breed), termed “‘roach-back,” or, more correctly, “‘wheel-back.”’ ForeLecs.—The forelegs should be short, very stout, straight, and muscular, set wide apart, with well-developed calves, presenting a bowed outline, but the bones of the legs should not be curved or bandy nor the feet brought too close together. E.sows.—The elbows should be low and stand well out and loose from the body. Hinpiecs.— The hindlegs should be strong and muscular and longer than the forelegs, so as to ele- vate the loins above the shoulders. Hocks should be slightly bent and well let down, so as to give - length and strength from loins to hock. The lower leg should be short, straight, and strong, with stifles turned slightly outward and away from the 215 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK body. The hocks are thereby made to approach each other and the hind feet turned outward. Freet.—The feet should be moderate in size, com- pact, and firmly set. Toes compact, well split up, with high knuckles, and with short and stubby nails. The front feet may be straight or slightly out- turned, but the hind feet should be pointed well outward. Tatt.—The tail may be either straight or “screwed”? (but never curved or curly), and in any case must be short, hung low, with decided down- ward carriage, thick root and fine tip. If straight, the tail should be cylindrical and of uniform taper. If “screwed,” the bends or kinks should be well defined, and they may be abrupt and even knotty, but no portion of the member should be elevated above the base or root. VALUE OF Points.—Proportion and symmetry, 5; attitude, 3; expression, 2; gait, 3; size, 33ae@atwaes color of coat, 4; skull, 5; cheeks, 2; stop, 4; eyes and eyelids, 3; ears, 5; wrinkle, 5; nose, 6; chops, 2; jaws, 5; teeth, 2; neck, 3; dewlap, 2; shoulders, 5; chest, 3; ribs, 3; brisket, 2; belly,.2: back: taees legs and elbows, 4; hind legs, 3; feet, 3; tail, 4. Total, 100. BULLDOGS (MINIATURE) The points and characteristics of this subdivision of the British Bulldog may be summed up in the simple statement that he should be an exact dupli- cate in miniature of the larger specimens in every 216 “aSOY X9 IIPULT AvMvuny eYIyoy “yD “‘uvI}eUEq “MOUS MOYD IO. sseourig "YD [Ng youery TIM youary “BAlpory Ape’y x9 Jayof ey], “YD ‘PPAISUIPA, PIBYIO "YD ‘e]poog youod yy SPECIALTY DOGS point and detail. The origin of the miniature Bull- dog is not very clear, but is doubtless of a later date than that of his bigger brothers. In the breeding of any variety odd miniature specimens will crop up in litters, and these have no doubt suggested to some fanciers the idea of propagating a race of pigmy Bulldogs probably designed for ladies’ pets. It is on record that many toy specimens, as they were first called, have been reproduced in the Bull- dog breeding centers of London, Sheffield, Birming- ham, Nottingham, etc., and it is doubtless from these that the present-day and more perfected race of miniatures have sprung. It is also a matter of record that in the distant past many of these toy specimens were exported to Prance. Ihey were, for the greater part, prick- eared or tulip-eared in the old days, and in later years re-imported French Bulldogs have been used to cross with English-bred toys for the purpose of fixing the size. This cross, happily not largely re- sorted to, had the disadvantage of perpetuating the hideous bat and tulip ears, and of rather spoiling the correct British type. The chief points to look for in Miniature puppies are identical with those in the larger variety, ex- cept that the smaller the puppy the better, if good in points. 217 THE COMPLETE: DOG BOOK THE BULL TERRIER Tue Bull Terrier has been aptly described as the game cock of the canine race. He 1s, unquestionably, the embodiment of courage as well as the essence of docility. A good Bull Terrier is staunch and true as steel when called upon to defend his master or his home, and on other occasions is gentle, harmless, and the most tractable of companions. The clean cut, statuesque appearance of the Bull Terrier has given him a prominent position in the Terrier family. His smooth, white coat is always in condition, and he is more cleanly about the house, and can be accepted on closer terms of intimacy than the long-haired varieties. There is no uncertainty about the origin of the Bull Terrier. When bull fighting was abolished, the sports of the day, the gamesters and the cock fighters, took up dog fighting and badger baiting. For this purpose they wanted a dog with a longer and more punishing jaw and one that was faster on his feet than the Bulldog but possessed of all the latter’s courage and endurance. They crossed the Bulldog on the agile, alert, little Terrier, that was used in the country and secured dogs with a punishing head of fair length, powerful jaw muscles and a strong terrier-like body and limbs. These dogs, like their ancestors, were of various colors. This type of Bull Terrier is still being bred by dog fighters. There was another class of fanciers to whom we are indebted for the modern Bull Terrier. They began 218 SPECIALTY DOGS by refining the fighting-dog type. They bred for longer heads, straighter limbs, and a more graceful outline, and in this direction accomplished a great deal. Their dogs, however, were short-faced com- pared with those of to-day and of many colors; fawn, brindle, black-and-white, etc. About fifty years ago, James Hinks, a clever fancier of Birmingham, England, swept the show benches with a pure white strain of Bull Terriers. His dogs were highly refined, straight on their legs, graceful and smart in appearance, with long wedge- shaped, clean-cut heads. In fact, there was nothing about them that suggested the Bulldog, and it was charged that the pugnacity and courage of the old breed had been lost. To prove that his strain had not lost their fighting spirit, Hinks backed his bitch, Puss, against one of the old bull-faced type for a five- pound note and a case of wine. Puss killed her opponent in thirty minutes, and her own injuries were so slight that she was able to appear at a Bench Show on the following day. It is said that Hinks used the Pointer and Dalmatian in producing his strain. However that may be, they became very popular and soon drove their short-faced rivals of various colors off the Bench, and for many years the breed enjoyed great popularity. The edict of the Kennel Club, abolishing cropping, gave them a temporary set-back from which they soon recovered as by careful selection, breeders soon obtained a small ear to replace the thick, heavy ear so essential to a good crop. At the present time 219 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK there is a strong movement to bring back the brindles and other colors which indicate strength. This will also have a good influence in checking the spread of deafness; for while white Bull Terriers are prone to deafness, this predisposition is not apparent in other colors. In selecting puppies over six months old, look for a long head and straight foreface, free from stop; level mouth; closely set, dark eye; small ears, short back and tail; straight front and big rb. The following is the Bull Terrier Club’s standard description and scale of points: Heap.—Should be long, but with due regard first to type. Skull as nearly flat as possible and widest between the ears. Viewed from above it should taper gradually and merge into the muzzle without per- ceptible break in the line. There should be a slight indentation down the middle, but without “stop” and with as little brow as possible. Foreface filled right up to the eyes. Preferably the foreface should have a decided ‘‘downness.”’ Eyes, very small, black, set high on the head, close together and obliquely. They should be either almond-shaped or triangular, preferably the latter. Wall-eye is a disqualification. Muzzle wide and tapering, but without so much taper as to make the nose appear pinched. Muzzle should be neither square nor snipy, but should present a rounded appearance as viewed from above. Nose broad, wholly black, and with wide-open nostrils. ‘Dudley or wholly flesh-colored nose is a disqualifica- tion. Underjaw strong and well defined. Lips 220 SPECIAL T Yi DOGS should meet closely and evenly all around, should not run too far back, and there should be an entire absence of “‘lippiness.’’ Teeth sound, strong, clean, regular, and meeting evenly. Any deviation from this rule, such as “pig paw,” “undershot” or “‘over- shot” is a bad fault. . Ears when standing erect should not cause noticeable wrinkling of the skin on the head. Ears should be cropped, should be straight and of moderate length. It is important that there be as little cheek as possible, but where it is present it should not be bunchy or prominent, but should merge gradually into the lines of the muzzle and neck. 7 Necx.—Slightly arched, tapering from shoulders to head, and free from looseness of skin. SHOULDERS.—Strong and muscular, but without any appearance of heaviness or “loading.” Shoulder blades wide, flat, and sloping well back. Backx.—Short, strong, and muscular. Should be higher at withers than hips. There should be no slackness nor falling away behind the withers, but back should be slightly arched at loin, with loins well developed and slightly tucked. Ribs well sprung, close together and intercostal muscles well developed; back ribs deep. Chest deep from withers to brisket and wide from front to back ribs, but should not be broad as viewed facing the dog. Tatt.—Short in proportion to the size of the dog, set on low, broad where it joins the body and taper- ing to a point; should be straight and should not be carried above the level of the back. lo 221 THE COMPLETE DOG: BOOK Lecs.—Should have big, round bone and strong, straight, upright pasterns. The whole foreleg should be reasonably straight, but without the stiltiness of the Fox Terrier. Thighs somewhat long, with muscle well developed, but without “loading.” Hocks short, fairly straight, well let down, and should turn neither in nor out as viewed from behind. Freet.—Of the cat pattern, with toes short, well arched, and close together. Pads strong and nails short. Coat.—Short, close, stiff to the touch, and with fine gloss. Cotor.—White. Markings, although objection- able, are not a disqualification. WeicutT.—Is not a matter of importance, so long as the specimen is typical. Fau.tts.—Light bone; round eyes; badly placed eyes; light eyes; domed skulls; butterfly noses; noticeable cheekiness; dished faces; lippiness, throat- iness; teeth not meeting evenly; long or slack backs; long, thick, or “gay” tails; loose shoulders; crooked elbows; loaded shoulders or thighs; weak pasterns; pig feet; toes turning either in or out; markings. THE TOY BULL TERRIER Bull Terriers weighing less than 15 pounds are usually described as Toy Bull Terriers. The points of these should be exactly the same as for the larger variety. The most popular weight for Toy Bull Terriers is not exceeding 10 pounds. 222 SPECIALTY DOGS THE BOSTON TERRIER The Boston Terrier is one of the few breeds that is distinctly of American origin. Their name indi- cates their nativity, and all that can be learned of their ancestry points to their having been of a pit bull terrier origin. Pit bulls are usually the result of a cross between bulldogs and terriers, and vary in form. Some have the long, clean head of a terrier; others, the round, almost puggish head of the bulldog. The round-headed, short-faced brindle - dogs that were a result of these crosses could not win against the terrier types in their own classes, and as they were crowded out their admirers suc- ceeded in having classes organized for them, and these classes were eventually recognized by the American Kennel Club. In the early history of the breed there was no established type, some favoring the bulldogs, while others were partial to those that were on the terrier order. As late as 1894 the American Kennel Club canceled a Boston Terrier pedigree because the sire was a bulldog. The registrar of the Boston Terrier Club, when called upon for an explanation, stated that it was necessary to resort to the bulldog cross to retain certain characteristics of the bulldog, namely, the rose ears, flat skull, and short, tapering tail, and further asserted that the Boston Terrier at that time was becoming too strongly terrier. At the present time the best opinion on this sub- ject is that the Boston should be neither bulldog 2.2% THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK nor terrier in type, but a happy medium. The Bos- ton Terrier has proven to be the great commercial success of this country, and no other breed has ever attained such great popularity in so short a time. The tendency from year to year has been to reduce them in size, and as a result of careful selection they have become well fixed in type and much of their early irregularity has disappeared. The description, standard and value of points as adopted by the Boston Terrier Club is as follows: GENERAL APPEARANCE.—The general appearance of the Boston Terrier should be that of a lively, highly intelligent, smooth-coated, short-headed, com- pactly built, short-tailed, well-balanced dog of me- dium station, of brindle color and evenly marked with white. The head should indicate a high degree of intelli- gence and should be in proportion to the size of the dog; the body rather short and well knit; the limbs strong and neatly turned; tail short; and no feature being so prominent that the dog appears badly proportioned. The dog should convey an impression of deter- mination, strength, and activity, with style of a high order; carriage easy and graceful. A proportionate combination of “color” and ‘deal markings” is a particularly distinctive feature of a representative specimen, and dogs with a pre- ponderance of white on body, or without the proper proportion of brindle and white on head, should 224 SPECIALTY DOGS possess sufficient merit otherwise to counteract their deficiencies in these respects. The ideal “Boston Terrier expression”’ as indicat- ing “a high degree of intelligence’ is also an im- portant characteristic of the breed. “Color and markings” and “expression” should be given particular consideration in determining the relative value of “General Appearance” to other points. SKULL.—Square, flat on top, free from wrinkles; cheeks flat; brow abrupt, stop well defined. Eyres.—Wide apart, large and round, dark in color; expression alert, but kind and intelligent; the eyes should set square across brow, and the out- side corners should be on a line with the cheeks as viewed from the front. Muzz.e.—Short, square, wide, and deep; free from wrinkles; shorter in length than in width and depth, and in proportion to skull; width and depth carried out well to end. Nose black and wide, with well-defined line between nostrils. The jaws broad and square, with short, regular teeth. The chops of good depth, but not pendulous, completely cover- ing the teeth when mouth is closed. The muzzle should not exceed in approximate length one-third of length of skull. Ears.—Small and thin; situated as near corners of skull as possible. Heap Fautts.—Skull “domed” or inclined; fur- rowed by a medial line; skull too long for breadth, or 225 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK vice versa; stop too shallow; brow and skull too slanting. Eyes small or sunken; too prominent; light color; showing too much white or haw. Muzzle wedge- shaped or lacking depth; down-faced; too much cut out below the eyes; pinched nostrils; protruding teeth; weak lower jaw, showing “turn up.” Poorly carried ears or out of proportion. Necx.—Of fair length, slightly arched and carry- ing the head gracefully; setting neatly into the shoulders. Neck Fauttrs.—Ewe-necked; throatiness; short and thick. Bopy.—Deep, with good width of chest; shoulders sloping; back short; ribs deep and well sprung, car- ried well back to loins; loins short and muscular; rump curving slightly to set-on of tail. Flank slightly cut up. The body should appear short, but not chunky. Bopy Fautrs.—Flat sides; narrow chest; long or slack loins; roach back; sway back; too much cut up in flank. E.sows.—Standing neither in nor out. ForELEGS.—Set moderately wide apart and ona line with the points of the shoulders; straight in bone and well muscled; pasterns short and strong. HrnpD.ecs.—Set true; bent at stifles; short from hocks to feet; hocks turning neither in nor out; thighs strong and well muscled. Frret.—Round, small, and compact, and turned neither in nor out; toes well arched. 226 SPECIALTY DOGS Lec and Feet Fautts.—Loose shoulders or elbows; hindlegs too straight at stifles; hocks too prominent; long or weak pasterns; splay feet. Tatt.—Set on low; short, fine, and tapering; straight or screw; devoid of fringe or coarse hair, and not carried above horizontal. Tait Fautts.—A long or gayly carried tail; ex- tremely gnarled or curled against body. (Note——The preferred tail should not exceed in length approximately half the distance from set-on to hock.) Cotor.—Brindle, with white markings. IpeEAL Marxincs.—White muzzle, even white blaze over head, collar, breast, part or whole of fore- legs, and hindlegs below hocks. CoLtor AND Markincs Fautts.—All white; ab- sence of white markings; preponderance of white on body; without the proper proportion of brindle and white on head; or any variations detracting from the general appearance. Coat.—Short, smooth, bright, and fine in texture. Coat Fautts.—Long or coarse; lacking luster. WeicutTs.—Not exceeding 27 pounds, divided as follows: Lightweight, under 17 pounds; middle- weight, 17 and not exceeding 22 pounds; heavy- weight, 22 and not exceeding 27 pounds. DisQuaLiFICATIONS.—Solid black, black-and-tan, liver and mouse colors. Docked tail and any arti- ficial means used to deceive the judge. Nacoe oF Poinrs.—Skull, 12; ears, 125) eves, 4; muzzle, 12; neck, 3; body, 15; elbows, 4; forelegs, 2277 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK 5; hindlegs, 5; color, 4; ideal markings, 10; feet, 5; tail, 5; coat, 3; general appearance and style, 10. Total, reo. THE FRENCH BULLDOG Authorities are of the opinion that the French Bulldog is strictly of French origin, yet they are willing to admit that in recent years importations from England have been used as a cross with the native dog, and that this cross has led to a nearer approximation to the British type. The chief difference between English and French specimens is in foreface and front; in most other points the two breeds are very nearly identical. The body of the Frenchman should be short and rotund, with a distinct roach and light but sound quarters. His shoulders should be strong, and he should stand on short, fairly stout limbs for his size. He should not exceed 22 pounds, be extremely agile, and indeed almost terrier-like in action and move- ment. The fundamental difference is seen in the foreface, which in the French should show some slight protrusion of the underjaw and some turn-up but no lay-back, which, through English Bulldog optics, give the dog the appearance of being frog- faced. The eyes should be set far apart and a good distance shown between the eye and the ear, and the skull should be flat. The ears, of course, should be on the lines of the ears of a bat, but it is satis- factory to note that large ears are deprecated. The tail again, like that of the English variety, should 228 SPECIALTY DOGS be short, low set, and tapering to a point, but noth- ing is said in the standard about a “‘screw”’ tail. The chief points to look for in the selection of the French Bulldog puppies at from two to four months old and after, are: Squareness and shortness of fore- face, massiveness of skull, large eye, deep stop, small, neat ears; shortness of body; good spring of rib; and straight legs, showing great bone. The following is the description of the breed as approved by the French Bulldog Club of America: GENERAL APPEARANCE.—The French Bulldog should have the appearance of an active, intelligent, muscular dog, of heavy bone, smooth coat, com- pactly built, and of medium or small stature. PRoPpoRTION AND SyMMETRY.—The points should be well distributed and bear good relation one to the other, no feature being in such prominence from either excess or lack of quality that the animal ap- pears deformed or ill proportioned. INFLUENCE OF SEx.—In comparison of specimens of different sex, due allowance should be made in favor of the bitches, which do not bear the char- acteristics of the breed to the same marked degree as do the dogs. WeicutT.—A lightweight class under 22 pounds; heavyweight class, 22 pounds, and not over 28 pounds. Heap.—The head should be large, square, and broad, cranium almost flat; the underjaw large and powerful, deep, square, broad, undershot, and well turned up. The muzzle should be well laid back 229 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK and the muscles of the cheeks well developed. The stop should be strongly defined, causing a hollow or groove between the eyes and extending up in the forehead. The nose should be extremely short, broad, and very deep; nostrils broad and _ black, with well-defined line between them. (Dish-face undesirable.) The nose and flews should be black. The flews should be thick, broad, pendant, and very deep, hanging over the lower jaw at sides. Tusks must not show. Front teeth may show slightly. Eyes.—The eyes should be wide apart, set low down in the skull, as far from the ears as possible, round in form, of moderate size, neither sunken nor bulging, and in color dark. No haw and no white of the eye showing when looking forward. Necx.—The neck should be thick and well arched, with loose skin at throat. Fars.—The ears shall hereafter be known as the bat ear, broad at the base, elongated, with round top, set high in the head, but not too close together, and carried erect, with the orifice to the front. The leather of the ear fine and soft. Bopy.—The body should be short and well rounded. The chest broad, deep, and full, well ribbed, with the belly tucked up. The back should be a roach back, with a slight fall close behind the shoulders. It should be strong and short, broad at the shoulders and narrowing at the loins. Lecs.—The forelegs should be short, stout, straight, and muscular, set wide apart. The hind- legs should be strong and muscular, longer than the 230 SPECIALTY DOGS forelegs, so as to elevate the loins above the shoul- ders. Hocks well let down. Frret.—The feet should be moderate in size, com- pact, and firmly set. Toes compact, well split up, with high knuckles, and short, stubby nails; hind- feet slightly longer than forefeet. Tatt.—The tail should be either straight or screwed (but not curly), short, hung low, thick root and fine tip, carried low in repose. CoLor, SKIN, AND Coat.—Acceptable colors are: All brindle (dark preferred) and any color except the following, which constitute disqualification: Solid black, black and white, black and tan, liver and mouse color. (Black as used in the standard means black without any trace of brindle.) The skin should be soft and loose, especially at head and shoulders, forming wrinkles. Coat moderately fine, brilliant, short and smooth. DisquatiFicaTion.—Other than bat ears, any mutilation, solid black, black and white, black and tan, liver and mouse color, eyes of different color, nose other than black, and hare lip. VALUE OF Points.—Proportion and symmetry, 5; expression, 5; gait, 4; color, 4; coat, 2; skull, 6; cheeks and chops, 2; stop, 5; ears, 8; eyes, 4; wrin- kles, 4; nose, 3; jaws, 6; teeth, 2; shoulders, 5; back, Geomeek, 4: chest, 3; ribs, 4; brisket, 3; belly,’ 2; forelegs, 4; hindlegs, 3; feet, 3; tail, 4. Total, 100. oat TOY AND LAP DOGS THE DALMATIAN Tus attractive breed of dogs comes from Dal- matia and the country adjacent to the Gulf of Venice. In their native land they serve the purpose of the Pointer and resemble them closely in con- formation and appearance. In this country their sporting proclivities have never been developed, but they display such marked fondness for the stable and the companionship of horses that they are known as coach dogs. The well- bred coach dog’s devotion to horses is really second nature or an instinct. He will assume the duties of guard about a stable, follow the horses at exercise, and take up a position between the wheels of a car- riage on the road, without any particular training. He is peculiarly adapted for the purpose, as he is of a size and build that will enable him to keep easy pace with the horses for a long distance. He is big enough and plucky enough to command the respect and caution of intruders. His smooth, short coat is always clean, and his symmetrical proportions, in- telligent features and clean, white body, evenly spotted with black, make him an attractive addition to any equipage. By reason of his markings, he is also easier seen at night than any other breed. The Coach Dog is usually of friendly disposition, though inclined to be distrustful of those who take 239 TOY AND LAP DOGS liberties with the equipage to which he may be at- tached, and although he is sometimes said to be deficient in intelligence, the fact that he is usually a clever member of all performing dog acts contra- dicts this opinion. In selecting puppies, it is well to remember that they are born pure white, the spots developing with age. Puppies curl their tails, which often become straight with age. After that general symmetry, soundness, clean pointer-like heads, and distinctness of spots are the points to be looked for. The standard and scale of points of the Dalmatian Club is as follows: Tue DaLMATIAN in many respects much resembles the Pointer, more especially in size, build, and out- line, though the markings peculiar to this breed are a very important feature, and very highly valued. In GENERAL APPEARANCE the Dalmatian should represent a strong, muscular, and active dog, sym- metrical in outline, free from coarseness and lumber, capable of great endurance, combined with a fair amount of speed. Tue Heap should be of fair length, the skull flat, rather broad between the ears, and moderately well defined at the temples—~. e., exhibiting a moderate amount of “‘stop,” and not in one straight line from the nose to the occiput bone, as required in a Bull Terrier. It should be entirely free from wrinkle. Tue Muzzte should be long and powerful, the lips clean, fitting the jaws moderately close. Tue Eyes should be set moderately well apart, 233 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK and of medium size, round, bright, and sparkling, with an intelligent expression, their color greatly depending on the markings of the dog: in the black- spotted variety the eyes should be dark (black or brown); in the liver-spotted variety they should be light (yellow or light brown). The rim around the eyes in the black-spotted variety should be black; brown in the liver-spotted variety; never flesh- colored in either. Tue Ears should be set on rather high, of mod- erate size, rather wide at the base, tapering to a rounded point. They should be carried close to the head, be thin and fine in texture, and always spotted, the more profusely the better. Tue Nose in the black-spotted variety should always be black; in the liver-spotted variety, always brown. Neck AND SHoutpEerS.—The neck should be fairly long, nicely arched, light, and tapering, and entirely free from throatiness. The shoulders should be moderately oblique, clean, and muscular, denoting speed. Bopy, Back, Cuest, AND Lorns.—The chest should not be too wide, but very deep and capacious; ribs moderately well sprung; never rounded like barrel hoops (which would indicate want of speed); the back powerful; loin strong, muscular, and slightly arched. Lecs anp Feet are of great importance. The forelegs should be perfectly straight, strong, and heavy in bone; elbows close to the body; fore feet 234 TOY AND LAP DOGS round, compact, and well arched; toes cat-footed, and round, tough, elastic pads. In the hindlegs the muscles should be clean, though well defined, the hocks well let down. Naits.—In the black-spotted variety, black and white; in the liver-spotted variety, brown and white. Tue Taix should not be too long, but should be strong at the insertion, gradually tapering toward the end, and free from coarseness. It should not be inserted too low down, but carried with a slight curve upward, and never curled. It should be spotted, the more profusely the better. Tue Coat should be short, hard, dense, and fine, sleek, and glossy in appearance, but neither woolly nor silky. CoLor AnD Marxincs.—These are most important points. The ground-color in both varieties should be pure white, very decided, and not intermixed. The color of the spots in the black-spotted variety should be black, the deeper and richer the black the better; in the liver-spotted variety they should be brown. The spots should not intermingle, but be as round and well defined as possible, the more distinct the better. VALUE OF Points.—Head and eyes, 10; legs and feety45- eats, 5; coat, §; neck and. shoulders, 16; body, back, chest, and loins, 10; color and markings, geetai, 5; size, symmetry, etc., 10.) Total, 100. 235 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK THE POODLE The Poodle is naturally a sporting dog, and was formally used for that purpose. No dog surpasses him as a retriever from the water, and he is still used for that purpose in Europe. The breed is well distributed over the Continent, and there are Russian and German Poodles, as well as those of France, which is generally considered their native home. | No dog surpasses the Poodle in intelligence; in fact, no dog is his equal, and he is best known to the public as the star artist in all companies of perform- ing dogs. He has a quality of mind that borders on the human; his reasoning powers are evident to all with whom he is associated, and there is apparently no limit to his aptitude for learning. Poodles are divided into two varieties, and both have escaped the greatest popularity simply on account of the quality of their coats, which require considerable attention to keep in show condition. In all other respects they require no more attention than other dogs, and all who are familiar with the breed are firm in their belief that no dog is so interesting a companion. There are two varieties of Poodles recognized on the show bench—the corded and the curly-coated. The only difference between them lies in the char- acter of the coat. The coat of the curlies is kept short and combed out to give it a fluffy appearance. The coat of the corded is encouraged to grow out 236 FOY AND‘ LEAP, DOGS until it attains abnormal lengths. The two varieties are identical. A curly-coat that is not combed out will grow a corded coat, for if the curls are not inter- fered with they will twist into little cords which in- crease in length steadily as the unshed old hair and the new growth entwine into rope-like cords, which, if not cut or broken off, will eventually drag along the ground and impede locomotion. It is this fact which accounts for the curly variety being more popular than the showier corded variety. The Poodle is usually shown fantastically clipped, the pattern varying with the tastes of the owner. It is the rule to shave the face, legs, and loins, with the exception of tufts of hair here and there, and a lion-like mane and body covering. Both the curly and the corded varieties are di- vided by weight, the large class scaling as high as seventy pounds, and the toys in the vicinity of five pounds. Soundness of color is desired; black, white, brown, and blue are correct. It is said that the whites are most intelligent, next the blacks, and then the browns and blues. In selecting puppies, look for long heads, dark eyes, and narrow skulls, with clean neck and shoulders, straight forelegs, short backs, and well sprung ribs. The chief points to look for in the selection of Poodle puppies at from two to four months old, whether large or toy, are: Great length of head, dark eyes, narrow skull, short back, well-sprung ribs, clean neck and shoulders, straight forelegs. 16 237 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK The following are the description and points as laid down by the Poodle Club: GENERAL A®PEARANCE.—That of a very active, intelligent, and elegant-looking dog, well built, and carrying himself very proudly. Heap.—Long, straight, and fine, the skull not broad, with a slight peak at the back. Muzzir.—Long (but not snipy) and strong—not full in cheek; teeth white, strong, and level; gums black, lips black and not showing lippiness. Eyes.—Almond-shaped, very dark, full of fire and intelligence. Nose.—Black and sharp. Ears.—The leather long and wide, low set on, hanging close to the face. Necx.—Well proportioned and strong, to admit of the head being carried high and with dignity. SHOULDERS.—Strong and muscular, sloping well to the back. Cuest.—Deep and moderately wide. Bacx.—Short, strong, and slightly hollowed, the loins broad and muscular, the ribs well sprung and braced up. Fret.—Rather small, and of good shape, the toes well arched, pads thick and hard. Lecs.—Fore set straight from shoulder, with plenty of bone and muscle. Hind legs very mus- cular and well bent, with the hocks well let down. Tatt.—Set on rather high, well carried, never curled or carried over back. Coat.—Very profuse, and of good, hard texture; 238 LOY AND EAP DOGS if corded, hanging in tight, even cords; if non- corded, very thick and strong, of even length, the curls close and thick, without knots or cords. Cotors.—All black, all white, all red, all blue. Tue WHITE Poop te should have dark eyes, black or very dark liver nose, lips, and toenails. Tue Rep Poopte should have dark amber eyes, dark liver nose, lips, and toenails. THE Biue Poopte should be of an even color, and have dark eyes, lips, and toenails. All the other points of White, Red, and Blue Poodles should be the same as the perfect Black Poodle. N. B.—It is strongly recommended that only one-third of the body be clipped or shaved, and that the hair on the forehead be left on. VALUE oF Points.—General appearance and move- ment, 15; head and ears, 15; eyes and expression, 10; neck and shoulders, 10; shape of body, loin, back, and carriage of stern, 15; legs and feet, 10; coat, color, and texture of coat, 15; bone, muscle, and condition, 10. Total, 100. THE CHOW CHOW This breed is undoubtedly descended from the Arctic dog. They come from the north of China, where they are used to draw sledges and also for hunting. The head and ears and general expression as well as their fur-like coat and curled tail, all in- dicate their relationship to the Esquimaux. They are sometimes referred to as the edible dog of China, 239 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK from the fact that the Chinese breed them for food, puppies eight to ten months old being selected for that purpose. Although Chows have been brought to this and other countries for the past one hundred years, it is only within the last quarter of a century that they have been received with much favor. At the present time they are very popular. There is a good deal of character to the Chow, despite the fact that he is sometimes referred to as a Chink. No dog has a braver spirit or is more de- voted to his master. They are not, however, what may be called sociable, and do not.make up with strangers, and hold themselves aloof even from their own species. They are not quarrelsome, but will not evade a combat, and in a mix-up can hold their own with any dog of their size. Their homing in- stinct is remarkable and it is almost impossible to lose them. They will find their way for miles through a country entirely new to them, and if they become separated from their masters in a crowd will thread their way through with the utmost confidence in their own ability until they find him; all of which are traits inherited from their Arctic ancestors. Up to the present time there has been no interest shown toward dwarfing this breed to increase their popularity as pets. Dogs weighing from forty to fifty pounds are considered by judges as the most typical of the breed. The most popular color is the red, with black next, and following in favor is the red with white markings, fawn, white and blue. 240 xo Apurg s, Wa 333VT ‘sole “tI Aylod Apey "yp : THE xe Sey ‘sdey rayeddiyss ayy sumorg Ape] ‘URIUBIOWIOg FYI —woyog ‘aiiiey x9 TJ Tox ‘yioqezipy Ape] xe ySnosoqysepy jo a4ynG ITEYXO “YD “eryred yosopay “yo A 2Y42 Jo usan( "YD i4elday, aarysy jatueds wrsyuslq ‘usaNC) njn7 XO O[[O'Y "UD c v YO) "YD :Jatuedg Loy ysisuq—doy Se na Ga ~4 ie 7 TOY AND LAP DOGS The chief points to look for in the selection of puppies of from two to four months old, are: Short faces, short backs, dense coats, great bone, short _ feet, and well-twisted tails. The standard description issued by the Chow Chow Club is as follows: Heap.—Large and massive; skull flat and broad, with little stop; well filled out under the eyes. Muzzie.—Moderate in length, and broad from the eyes to the point (not pointed out at the end like a fox’s); lips full and overhanging. Nose.—Black, large, and wide. (In cream or light-colored specimens a pink nose is allowable.) Toncue.—Black. Eyes.—Dark and small. (In a blue dog light color is permissible.) Ears.—Small, pointed, and carried stiffly erect. They should be placed well forward over the eyes, which gives the dog the peculiar characteristic ex- pression of the breed—viz., a sort of scowl. TEETH.—Strong and level. Necxk.—Strong, full, set well on the shoulders, and slightly arched. SHOULDERS.—Muscular and sloping. Cuest.—Broad and deep. Bacx.—Short, straight, and strong. Lo1ins.—Powerful. Tait.—Curled, well carried over back. ForeLecs.—Perfectly straight, of moderate length, and with great bone. 241 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK HinpDLEGs.—Same as forelegs, muscular, and with straight hocks. FEET.—Small, round, and cat-like, standing well on the toes. Coat.—Abundant, dense, straight, and rather coarse in texture, with a soft, woolly undercoat. Cotor.—Whole-colored black, red, yellow, blue, white, not in patches (the under part of tail and back of thighs frequently of a lighter color.) GENERAL APPEARANCE.—A lively, compact, short- coupled dog, well knit in frame, with tail curled well over the back. Disqua.iryinc Poinrs.—Drop ears, red tongue, tail not curled over back, white spots on coat, and red nose, except in yellow or white specimens. N. B.—Smooth Chows are governed by the same scale of points, except that the coat is smooth. The points to avoid are: Other than black tongues, long faces, drop ears, open coats, bad fronts, long backs, and very straight stifles, which latter is a rather common defect in the breed. THE, TOY SPANIELS Kine CHARLES, Prince CHARLES, BLENHEIM, AND RuBy The four Spaniels classified as toys were until a recent period all known as King Charles Spaniels. The division into four varieties is governed entirely by their color, as they are alike in all other respects. In fact, it is not an unusual occurrence for the four varieties to be present in one litter. 242 TOY AND LAP DOGS The King Charles is a glossy black with rich ma- hogany markings, tan spots over the eyes, on the cheeks, the lining of the ear, and the lower parts of the legs and under part of the tail. White is not permissible in the variety, although at one time black-and-white was accepted as a desirable color. The Prince Charles was produced by the inter- breeding of the black-and-white and black-and-tan King Charles Spaniels. They are a pearly white, with evenly distributed glossy black markings cover- ing the body in patches; tan over the eyes and on the cheeks; ears lined with tan, and with tan under the tail. The Blenheim is red and white in color. They should be pearly white, with patches of rich red chestnut or ruby red, evenly distributed over the body. The ears and cheeks must be red and a white blaze should extend from the nose to the fore- head and then curve between the ears. Much im- portance is attached to the presence in the middle of the blaze of a spot of red the size of a dime. This mark is called the Blenheim spot, and in connection with a profuse mane, is considered as adding much to the beauty of the breed. The Ruby is, as its name indicates, a rich, un- broken ruby red, the nose, of course, being black. The Ruby is the latest member of this family, but one already very popular, and many good specimens are being shown. There is no question about the long descent and aristocratic associations of the Toy Spaniels, for 243 THE COMPLETE: DOG BOOK they have been the favorites of royalty for many years. They are frequently mentioned in history and occupy prominent positions in the portraiture of various periods. They were popular with royalty in the days of Henry the Eighth and Queen Eliza- beth. Charles the Second was devoted to them, and during his reign they were said to have overrun Hampton Court and other palaces. The unhappy Queen of Scots went to the scaffold accompanied by her spaniel, and the Marlborough family, dating from the first duke, had a red-and-white spaniel at their country place, Blenheim, that was known by that name. It is generally believed that the toy spaniel came from Spain in much their present form, or were bred from Cocker Spaniels in England. They resemble the Cocker in disposition, have the same colors and markings, and the Blenheim spot previously re- ferred to is frequently present on the forehead of Cockers. The portraits of Van Dyke, Boucher, and Greuze, in which spaniels are frequently introduced, show the toy spaniel of the past had a longer nose and smaller head than those of the present day, and that their ears were longer and often dragged on the ground. The Blenheims of Marlborough were also used for working the coverts for pheasant and woodcock shooting, and were said to have had splendid noses, which many still possess. The fact that the dogs in the old portraits differed but little from the authentic portraits of Cockers in 244 RO SN DE AUP DOGS the beginning of the last century confirms the be- lief in their relationship. The contention that the toy spaniel is descended from the Japanese Spaniel is contradicted by differ- ences in character, as the Jap has more of the dispo- sition of the Pug. The chief points to look for in the selection of all English Toy Spaniel puppies at from two to four months old are the same, except, of course, color, to which some weight should be given according to the standard laid down. They are: Diminutiveness compatible with soundness and robustness, extreme shortness of face, large eyes, lofty skull, short body, nicely proportioned all around, low-set and rather long ears. The following are the standard description and points of the four varieties as laid down by the Toy Spaniel Club: Heap.—Should be well domed, and in good speci- mens is absolutely semi-globular, sometimes even extending beyond the half-circle, and absolutely pro- jecting over the eyes, so as nearly to meet the up- turned nose. Eyres.—The eyes are set wide apart, with the eyelids square to the line of the face—not oblique or fox-like. The eyes themselves are large, so as to be generally considered black; their enormous pupils, which are absolutely of that color, increasing the de- scription. From their large size there is almost a certain amount of weeping shown at the inner angles; this is owing to a defect in the lachrymal duct. 245 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK , Srop.—The “‘stop,” or hollow between the eyes, is well marked, as in the Bulldog, or even more so; some good specimens exhibiting a hollow deep enough to bury a small marble. Nosr.—The nose must be short and well turned up between the eyes, and without any indication of artificial displacement afforded by a deviation to either side. The color of the end should be black, and it should be both deep and wide, with open nostrils. Jaw.—The lower jaw must be wide between its branches, leaving plenty of space for the tongue and for the attachment of the lower lips, which should completely conceal the teeth. It should also be turned up or “finished,” so as to allow of its meeting the end of the upper jaw, turned up in a similar way as above described. Ears.—The ears must be long, so as to approach the ground. In an average-sized dog they measure 20 inches from tip to tip, and some reach 22 inches, or even a trifle more. They should be set low on the head, and be heavily feathered. In this respect the King Charles is expected to exceed the Blenheim, and his ears occasionally extend to 24 inches. S1zE.—The most desirable size is from g pounds to 12 pounds. Suape.—In compactness of shape these Spaniels almost rival the Pug, but the length of coat adds sreatly to the apparent bulk, as the body, when the coat is wetted, looks small in comparison with that dog. Still it ought to be decidedly “‘cobby,” with 246 TOY AND. LAP DOGS strong, stout legs, broad back, and wide chest. The symmetry of the Toy Spaniel is of importance, but it is seldom that there is any defect in this respect. Coat.—The coat should be long, silky, soft, and wavy, but not curly. In the Blenheim there should be a profuse mane, extending well down in the front of the chest. The feather should be well displayed on the ears and feet, where it is so long as to give the appearance of their being webbed. It is also carried well up the backs of the legs. In the King Charles the feather on the ears is very long and profuse, ex- ceeding that of the Blenheim by an inch or more. The feather on the tail (which is cut to the length of about 3% or four inches) should be silky, and from 5 to 6 inches in length, constituting a marked “flag” of a square shape, and not carried above the level of the back. Cotor.—The color varies with the breed. The King Charles is a rich, glossy black and deep tan spots over the eyes and on cheeks, and the usual markings on the legs are also required. The Ruby Spaniel is a rich chestnut red. The presence of a few white hairs intermixed with the black on the chest of a King Charles Spaniel, or intermixed with the red on the chest of a Ruby Spaniel shall carry great weight against a dog, but shall not in itself absolutely disqualify; but a white patch on the chest or white on any other part of a King Charles or Ruby Spaniel shall be a disqualification. The Blenheim must on no account be whole-colored, but should have a ground of pure pearly white, with 247 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK bright rich chestnut or ruby red markings evenly distributed in large patches. The ears and cheeks should be red, with a blaze of white extending from the nose up to the forehead and ending between the ears in a crescentive curve. In the center of this blaze there should be a clear “spot” of red of the size of a sixpence. The tricolor, or Charles the First Spaniel, should have the tan of the King Charles, with markings like the Blenheim in black instead of red on a pearly white ground. The ears and under the tail should also be lined with tan. The tricolor has no “spot,” that beauty being peculiarly the property of the Blenheim. The club has resolved that the All-red Toy Spaniel be known by the name of “Ruby Spaniel.” The color of the nose to be black. The points of the “Ruby” to be the same as those of the “King Charles,” differing only in color. VaLuE oF Points.—King Charles, Prince Charles, and Ruby Spaniels: Symmetry, condition, and size, 20: head, 15; stop, 4; muzzle, 10; eyes, 1O;/ears;amg, coat and feathering, 15; color, 10. Total, 100. Blenheim: Symmetry, condition, and size, 15; head, 16; stop, 5; muzzle, 10; eyes, 10; ears, 10; coat and feathering, 15; color and markings, 15; spot, 5. Total, 100. THE JAPANESE SPANIEL These diminutive Orientals have for a number ot years enjoyed a remarkable vogue in both this country and in Europe. They are not as popular 248 LOT AND! EAP DOGS to-day as they were a few years ago, but a good specimen never fails to command admiration and a handsome price. The Japanese Spaniel is a native of Nippon. In general appearance, they resemble the Toy Spaniel species, but are in no ways related. Like them, they are short-faced toys quite similar in shape and alike in coat, except that black-and-white is the prevail- ing color. The Jap differs from the Toy Spaniel in the shape of the head, which is less domed, and the placement of the eye, which is more to the side. The ears are placed higher on the head, the nostrils are smaller, the foreface is wider and not so deep. The first Japs imported were on the large order, many of them scaling over ten pounds. Later it was learned that in Japan only the diminutive spec- imens weighing in the vicinity of five pounds were in demand, and that these dogs were carried in the sleeves of the ladies of rank and fashion. There was an immediate slump in the values of the larger Japs and a craze for the smallest obtainable. Many were imported and English and American breeders also devoted themselves to bantamizing the Jap. They succeeded admirably, and now there are many small-sized Japs of splendid quality in this country. The Japanese Spaniel, particularly the dwarfed specimens, are delicate and hard to raise. Dis- temper carries off many and they are susceptible to many diseases. The Jap has, above all things, the appearance of an 249 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK aristocrat, with a finished dignity and self-satisfied air of importance that is an amusing contrast to his diminutive size. They make interesting companions and affectionate pets. Points to look for in puppies are very similar to those given for English Toy Spaniels. The following is the description and points laid down by the Japanese Spaniel Club: GENERAL APPEARANCE.— That of a lively, highly- bred little dog, with dainty appearance, smart, com- pact carriage, and profuse coat. These dogs should be essentially stylish in movement, lifting the feet high when in motion, carrying the tail (which is heavily feathered, proudly curved, or plumed) over the back. In size they vary considerably, but the smaller they are the better, provided type and quality are not sacrificed. When divided by weight, classes should be for under and over seven pounds. Coats.—The coats should be long, profuse, and straight, free from curl or wave, and not be too flat. It should have a tendency to stand out, more par- ticularly at the frill, with profuse feathering on the tail and thighs. Cotor.—The dogs should be either black-and- white or red-and-white—i. e., parti-colored. The term red includes all shades of sable, brindle, lemon, and orange, but the brighter and clearer the red the better. The white should be clear white, and the color, whether black or red, should be evenly dis- tributed patches over the body, cheeks, and ears. Heap.—Should be large for size of dog, with 250 TOY AND LAP DOGS broad skull, rounded in front; eyes large, dark, set far apart; muzzle very short and wide and well cushioned—z. e., the upper lip rounded on each side of nostril, which should be large and black, ex- cept in the case of red-and-white dogs, when a brown-colored nose is as common as a black one. Fars.—Should be small, set wide apart, and high on the dog’s head, and carried slightly forward, V-shaped. Bopy.—Should be squarely and compactly built, wide in chest, “cobby” in shape. The length of the dog’s body should be about its height. Lecs anD Freretr.—The legs should be straight and the bone fine; the feet should be long and hare- shaped. The legs should be well feathered to the feet on the front legs and to the thighs behind. The feet should also be feathered. VALUE oF Points.—Head: Size of head, 5; shape of skull, 5; shortness of nose, 5; width of muzzle, 5; eyes, 10; ears, 5; coat and feathering, 15; color and markings, 10; legs and feet, 10; action, shape, style, and catriave of tail, 20; size, 10. ‘Total, 100, THE YORKSHIRE TERRIER This elegant breed make most interesting pets and companions, for they are keen, active, and in- telligent, and on the show bench never fail to attract attention on account of the length, color, quantity, and quality of their coat. It would naturally be supposed that the finest specimens of this breed would be found in the homes 251 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK of the rich, but as a matter of fact they are almost invariably in the homes of the poor, usually in the hands of some working man whose wife and family are devoted to dogs and are quite ready to convert their home into a kennel and give their pets the constant attention which they require, not only to grow these wonderful coats, but also to preserve them. It may also be mentioned that considerable skill is also essential. The feet of even the puppies are stockinged to prevent scratching of the hair on any part of their bodies. They are combed and brushed every day, periodically bathed, and the skin carefully watched and kept in a healthy condi- tion by a careful selection of diet and the applica- tion of various preparations, such as olive oil, cocoanut oil, and vaseline, as well as other carefully- guarded private preparations which stimulate the roots of the hair. Necessarily these dogs lead a life of imprisonment. They are given woolen cloths or cushions and smooth, soft mats to sleep upon, and every precaution is taken to prevent them coming in contact with anything that would mat their coats. At birth all Yorkshire Terriers are black. When from three to six months of age a blue shade begins to develop at the roots of the hair. This gradually changes until they are from twelve to eighteen months, at which age the coat should be a real golden tan, deepening at the head, with the ears and legs almost mahogany. In selecting Yorkshire Terrier puppies diminutive- ness, shortness of back, and lightness of bone should 25 TOY AND LAP DOGS be looked for, as well as anything that indicates the long, straight coat, with the dark tan on head and legs. The following are the description and standard of points of the Yorkshire Terrier Club: GENERAL APPEARANCE.—Should be that of a long- coated Toy Terrier, the coat hanging quite straight and evenly down each side, a parting extending from the nose to the end of the tail. The animal should be very compact and neat, the carriage being very upright, and having an im- portant air. The general outline should convey the existence of a vigorous and well-proportioned body. Heap.—Should be rather small and flat, not too prominent or round in the skull, not too long in the muzzle, with a perfectly black nose. The fall on the head to be long, of a rich golden tan, deeper in color at the sides of the head about the ear roots, and on the muzzle, where it should be very long. The hair on the chest a rich bright tan. On no ac- count must the tan on the head extend on to the neck, nor must there be any sooty or dark hair in- termingled with any of the tan. Eyes.—Medium, dark, and sparkling, having a sharp, intelligent expression, and placed so as to look directly forward. They should not be prom- inent, and the edge of the eyelids should be of a dark color. Ears.—Small V-shaped, and carried semi-erect, or erect, covered with short hair, color to be of a very deep, rich tan. 7 253 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK Moutu.—Perfectly even, with teeth as sound as possible. If an animal has lost any teeth through accident it is not a fault, providing the jaws are even. Bopy.—Very compact, and a good loin. Level on the top of the back. Coat.—The hair on body moderately long and perfectly straight (not wavy), glossy like silk, and of a fine silky texture. Color, a dark steel blue (not silver blue) extending from the occiput (or back of skull) to the root of tail, and on no account mingled with fawn, bronze, or dark hairs. Lecs.—Quite straight, well covered with hair of a rich golden tan, a few shades lighter at the ends than at the roots, not extending higher on the fore- legs than the elbow, nor on the hindlegs than the stifle. Freet.—As round as possible, and the toenails black. Tait.—Cut to medium length; with plenty of hair, darker blue in color than the rest of the body, especially at the end of the tail, and carried a little higher than the level of the back. Tan.—All tan hair should be darker at the roots than in the middle, shading to a still lighter tan at the tips. WeicutT.—Three classes: § pounds and under; 7 pounds and under, but over § pounds; over 7 pounds. VALUE OF Points.—Formation and Terrier ap- pearance, 15; color of hair on body, 15; richness of tan on head and legs, 15; quality and texture of 254 TOY AND LAP DOGS coat, 10; quantity and length of coat, 10; head, 10; mony 5 less and feet, 43 ears, 5; eyes, 4; tail ieatriage of), 5. \ Total, 100. THE ITALIAN GREYHOUND The Italian Greyhound is a very old breed, de- scended from the dwarfed Greyhounds that were kept as domestic pets. For delicacy, refinement, grace, and gentleness they have no equals. There is little of the aggressive spirit about them, their most striking trait being their universal docility. They are too light for work of any kind and have no in- clination in that direction, and many will play with a rat or rabbit without a thought of animosity. The delicate lines of the Italian Greyhound, their soft, pleading eyes, gentle natures, and cleanly habits commend them to the public. It may be mentioned, however, that they are not as fragile as they appear. They have much stronger constitu- tions than is generally supposed. Naturally they are not able to endure much cold or dampness, but other than that they require no pampering, and many are extremely long lived. One of the peculiarities of the breed lies in their action, as they have a high-stepping walk much like the high-school horses of a circus ring. The chief points to select for in puppies at from two to four months are diminutiveness, slightness, and apparent fragility, with a distinct arch of loin. The following are the points and standard descrip- tion of the Italian Greyhound Club: 255 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK GENERAL APPEARANCE.—A miniature English Greyhound, more slender in all proportions, and of ideal elegance and grace in shape, symmetry, and action. SkuLL.—Long, flat, and narrow. Muzz.te.—Very fine. Nose dark in color. Teeth level. Ears.—Ears rose-shaped, placed well back, soft and delicate. Eyes.—Rather large, bright, and full of expres- sion. Necx.—Long and gracefully arched. SHOULDERS.—Long and sloping. Cuest.—Deep and narrow. Bacx.—Curved, and drooping at the hindquarters. ForELEGs.—Straight, well set under the shoulder; fine pasterns, small delicate bones. > Hinpiecs.—Hocks well let down. Thighs mus- cular. Feret.—The long “‘hare’s foot.” Tartt.—Rather long, fine, with low carriage. Coat.—Skin fine and supple. Hair thin and glossy like satin. Cotor.—Preferably self-colored. The color most prized is golden fawn, but all shades of fawn—red, mouse, blue, cream, and white—are recognized; and blacks, brindles, and pied are considered less de- sirable. Black and tan terrier markings not al- lowed. Action.—High stepping and free. WetcutT.—Two classes. One of 8 pounds and 256 TOY AND LAP DOGS under, and one over 8 pounds. A good small dog is preferable to an equally good large one, and a good large dog is preferable to a poor small one. VALUE OF Pornts.—Skull, 6; muzzle, 8; ears, 8; eyes, 5; neck, 8; shoulders, 5; chest, 5; back, 8; fore- legs, 8; hindlegs, 8; feet, 8; tail, 8; coat, 4; color, 3; action, 8; Total, 100. THE POMERANIAN This vivacious and interesting breed that has strongly caught the fancy of the country is nothing more or less than a pocket edition of the old-fashioned Spitz, a dog always popular with the Germans. The Pomeranian derives its name from the prov- ince of Pomerania, in the north of Germany. Here these dogs are very numerous, being, in fact, the house dog of that country, and are there bred to a state of perfection. The ancestors of the Pom- eranians are undoubtedly related to the Samoyede and the Esquimaux. They both present a foxy head, prick ears, curled tail, and a. marked similarity in coats. What the Germans did was to take the material at hand and reduce it in size by careful selection and in-breeding, so as to make them more acceptable as house pets. This has been done slowly. The old-fashioned Wolf Spitz or Wolf Sable, a direct descendant of the Esquimaux, weighed from 25 to 50 pounds. Thirty years ago the Pomeranian of the show bench weighed from fifteen to twenty-five pounds. To-day dozens of them are benched weighing well below five pounds, 257 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK and all have the beauty, the vivacity, and the marked characteristics of their early ancestors, the same foxy head and ears, the short back, and the enormous coat of their seventy-five pound Arctic brethren. The old-fashioned twenty-pound Pomeranian or Spitz dog was usually white or sable in color. To- day they range in color from all shades of black to black-and-tan, orange, and tri-color. There is to-day no more popular pet dog than the Pom. They are very intelligent and faithful, as well as more active than most toys, and their di- minutive size, vivacious manner, and wonderful coat and coloring is always sure to attract attention, particularly that of the fair sex. The Pomeranian inherits from his rugged northern ancestors a sturdy constitution. They are more easily raised than most breeds, while their popularity makes them profitable. During the period that breeders were devoting themselves to bantamizing the Pomeranian no at- tention was paid to color. Sires were selected for their size alone. Beautifully colored puppies, how- ever, appeared from time to time, and this has prompted many breeders to turn their attention to color breeding. While no fixed principle has been arrived at, a point has been reached whereby some colors can be produced at will. Orange sires and black or chocolate bitches produce usually chocolate puppies. Chocolate sires and orange or sable bitches produce pure orange puppies. The blues are 258 TOY AND LAP DOGS descendants of the blacks, but blue parents seldom have blue puppies unless there is more blue behind them. Orange and sable parents do not produce blue puppies. After birth puppies frequently change their colors, black puppies becoming blue, and blues frequently turning into blacks and beautiful shades of sable. In selecting puppies, look for small size, light bone, prick ears, short backs, and thick, heavy coats. The following are the standard description and points of the breed, as laid down by the Pomeranian Club, and which have been adopted by other clubs: APPEARANCE.—The Pomeranian in build and ap- pearance should be a compact, short-coupled dog, well knit in frame. His head and face should be fox- like, with small, erect ears that appear sensible to every sound; he should exhibit great intelligence in his expression, docility in his disposition, and activity and buoyancy in his deportment. 15 Heap.—The head should be somewhat foxy in outline, or wedge-shaped, the skull being slightly flat (although in the toy varieties the skull may be rather rounder), large in proportion to the muzzle, which should finish rather fine, and be free from lippiness. The teeth should be level, and on no account undershot. The head in its profile may ex- hibit a little “stop,” which, however, must not be too pronounced, and the hair on head and face must be smooth or short-coated. 5. Eyrs.—The eyes should be medium in size, rather oblique in shape, not set too wide apart, bright and 259 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK dark in color, showing great intelligence and docility of temper. In a white dog black rims round the eyes are preferable. 5. Fars.—The ears should be small, not set too far apart nor too low down, and carried perfectly erect like those of a fox, and, like the head, should be covered with soft, short hair. No plucking nor trimming is allowable. 5. Nose.—In black, black-and-tan, or white dogs the nose should be black; in other colored Pome- ranians it may more often be brown or liver-colored, but in all cases the nose must be self, not parti- colored, and never white. 4. Neck AND SHoULDERS.—The neck, if anything, should be rather short, well set in, and lion-like, covered with a profuse mane and frill of long, straight hair sweeping from the underjaw and covering the whole of the front part of the shoulders and chest, as well as the top part of the shoulders. The shoul- ders must be tolerably clean and laid well back. 5. Bopy.—The back must be short and the body compact, being well ribbed up and the barrel well rounded. The chest must be fairly deep and not too wide. 10. Tatt.—The tail is a characteristic of the breed, and should be turned over the back and carried flat, being profusely covered with long, spreading hair. 10. Coat.—Properly speaking, there should be two coats, an under and over coat, the one a soft, fluffy undercoat, the other a long, perfectly straight and glistening coat covering the whole of the body, being 260 | TOY AND LAP DOGS very abundant round the neck and fore part of the shoulders and chest, where it should form a frill of profuse standing-off, straight hair, extending over the shoulders, as previously described. The hind- quarters, like those of the Collie, should be similarly clad with long hair or feathering from the top of the rump to the hocks. The hair on the tail must be, as previously described, profuse and spreading over fee -back. 25. Cotor.—The following colors are admissible: White, black, blue or grey, brown, sable, shaded sable, red, orange, fawn, and parti-colors. The whites must be quite free from lemon or any color, and the blacks, blues, browns, and sables, from any white. A few white hairs in any of the self-colors shall not absolutely disqualify, but should carry great weight against a dog. In parti-colored dogs the colors should be evenly distributed on the body in patches; a dog with a white foot or a white chest would not be a parti- colored. Whole-colored dogs with a white foot or feet, leg or legs, are decidedly objectionable, and should be discouraged, and cannot compete as whole- colored specimens. In mixed classes—z. e., where whole-colored and parti-colored Pomeranians compete together—the preference should, if in other points they are equal, be given to the whole-colored specimens. Shaded sables must be shaded throughout with three or more colors, as uniformly as possible, with no patches of self-color. 261 THE * COMPLETE DQG BOOK Oranges must be self-colored throughout, and light shadings are allowed, though not desirable. 10. SCHIPPERKE The Schipperke comes from Belgium, where he is the popular watch dog of the barges used on Flemish canals. There is a ledge one foot wide that runs about the canal boats a short distance from the top. Here the Schipperke (pronounced Skip-per-kee, the Flemish for little skipper) spends his time. He is trained to race around this ledge, acting as guard and sentinel, an office for which he 1s particularly well fitted, as he is the most wide, awake, liveliest, and inquisitive of canines. The slightest noise at- tracts his attention, and he never neglects to in- vestigate the cause. The Schipperke is always shown tailless. To be sure he is born with a tail that curls up over his back like a Pomeranian and suggests that as his descent, but it was decreed on the canal boats many years ago that the presence of the tail pre- vented his owner from turning on the narrow ledge as rapidly as he could without it. Occasionally, it was said, that his tail precipitated him into the water, and as a result a systematic docking was de- creed. Continued for years, docking has had its 1n- fluence upon the caudal appendage, for some are now born tailless and others have only a stump. Those born with normal tails are docked. This 262 TOY AND LAP) DOGS operation should be performed by a skillful vet- erinarian, as the whole of the tail 1s removed, a much more delicate operation than the case in the docking of terriers. The Schipperke is a very good water dog and does not mind a ducking in the least. He 1s also a first- class ratter. There is no limit to his prying liveliness. They are bright, smart, and very affectionate, so much so as to be usually intensely jealous. While they con- stitute themselves guardians of the household, they usually select one member of the family as their par- ticular property, and to them devote the greater part of their attention. The standard description and code of points adopted by the Schipperke Club (England) are as follows: HeEap.—Foxy in type, skull should not be round, but broad, and with little stop. The muzzle should be moderate in length, fine but not weak; should be well filled out under the eyes. Nose.—Black and small. Eyes.—Dark brown, small, more oval than round, and not full; bright and full of expression. Fars.—Shape: of moderate length, not too broad at base, tapering to a point. Carriage: stiffly erect, and when in that position the inside edge to form as near as possible a right angle with the skull, and strong enough not to be bent otherwise than lengthways. 263 THE: COMPLETE BOG SOUk TEETH.—Strong and level. Neck.—Strong and full, rather short, set broad on the shoulders, and slightly arched. SHOULDERS.—Muscular and sloping. Cuest.—Broad and deep in brisket. Bacx.—Short, straight, and strong. Lorns.—Powerful, well drawn up from the brisket. Forevecs.— Perfectly straight, well under the body, with bone in proportion to the body. Hinpiecs.— Strong, muscular; hocks well let down. Freetr.—Small, catlike, and standing well on its toes. Naits.—Black. HinpQuarTERS.—Fine, compared to the fore- parts; muscular and well-developed thighs, tailless, rump well rounded. Coat.—Black, abundant, dense, and harsh, smooth on the head, ears, and legs, lying close on the back and sides, but erect and thick round the neck, form- ing a mane and frill, and well feathered on back of thighs. WeicutT.—About 12 pounds. GENERAL APPEARANCE.—A small, cobby animal, with sharp expression, intensely lively, presenting the appearance of always being on the alert. DisquaLiryInc Points.—Drop, or semi-erect ears. Fautts.—White hairs are objected to, but are not disqualifying. 264 ‘asasulyog ‘jatueds asouvde[ uOYIID) sjassnig ‘saiddng sjoruvdg asourde[ TOY AND LAP DOGS THE PEKINGESE At the present moment this breed is on the high tidé of popularity. Just how long they will continue in that envied position it is impossible to say, as fashions in the pet-dog world fluctuate rapidly, but it is safe to say that their interesting personality will always command a strong following. The Pekingese share with the Chows the honor of being the national dogs of China. That they are a very old breed is indicated by the fact that at the looting of the summer palace there were found bronze statues of these dogs two thousand years old. It is further claimed that the first dogs brought to England in 1860 were taken from within the walls of the sacred city, and that since then few from the Royal Kennels have found their way into the outer world. There is, however, no difficulty in procuring them from other sources, as they are bred extensively in all the towns in China between Pekin and the sea. The Pekingese has been classified among the spaniels by some authorities, which is a mistake, as they are not of spaniel descent and have no spaniel instincts or characteristics. On the contrary, they -are very much like the Pugs in disposition and tem- perament, and undoubtedly there is a relationship between them. The Pekingese is a much hardier dog than the Jap, easier bred and raised, and able to adapt them- selves readily to most climates. There has been a 265 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK decided movement toward dwarf specimens of late years, and the inbreeding that has been practiced with this object in view has weakened their constitu- tions, but not to serious extent. The admirers of the breed are very enthusiastic over their dispositions. They are said to be most affectionate and faithful companions, and lend them- selves to domesticity with cat-like love of comfort. They accept gracefully all the luxuries of civiliza- tion. They display much of the independence and pugnacity of the Pug and a most amusing self-pride and conscious dignity in the presence of other dogs or strangers. In the selection of Pekingese puppies at from two to four months old, look for: Diminutiveness com- patible with soundness and robustness; shortness and width of foreface; large eyes, deep stop, well- wrinkled forehead, moderately short and compact body, shortness of leg and great bone, with an abundant and dense fur-like coat, tail well feathered, and showing an indication to curl well over body. The standard and scale of points is as follows: Expression.—Must suggest Chinese origin com- bined with quaintness and individuality, directness and independence, courage, boldness, self-esteem, and combativeness rather than prettiness, dainti- ness, or delicacy. ‘5: Heap.—Massive, broad skull, wide and flat be- tween the ears (not dome-shaped); wide between the eyese io. Nose.—Black, broad, very short and flat. 5. 266 TOY AND LAP DOGS Eyes.—Large, dark, prominent, round, lustrous. 5. Tor;—Deep. .) 5. Ears.—Heart-shaped, not set too high, leather never long enough to come below the muzzle, not carried erect, but rather drooping, long feather. 5. Muzz.ie.—Very short and broad, not underhung nor pointed, wrinkled. 5. Mane.—Profuse, extending beyond shoulder blades, forming ruff or frill round front of neck. 5. SHAPE OF Bopy.—Heavy in front, broad chest, falling away lighter behind, lion-like, not too long in the body. 10. Coat AND FEATHER AND ConpiTI0n.—Long, with thick undercoat, straight and flat, not curly nor wavy, rather coarse, but soft; feather on thighs, legs, tail, and toes, long and profuse. 10. Cotor.—All colors are allowable—red, fawn, black, black-and-tan, sable, brindle, white and parti- colored, black masks, and spectacles round eyes, with lines to ears are desirable. 5. Lrecs.—Short, forelegs heavy, bowed out at el- bows; hindlegs lighter, but firm and well shaped. 5. Freer.—Flat, not rounded; should stand well up on toes, not on ankles. 5. Tait.—Curled and carried well up on loins; long, profuse, straight feather. 10. SizE.—Being a toy dog, the smaller the better, provided type and points are not sacrificed. Any- thing over 18 pounds should disqualify. When di- vided by weight, classes should be over 10 pounds and under 10 pounds. 4. 267 THE COMPLETE DOG) BOOK Action.—Free, strong, and high, crossing feet or throwing them out in running should not take off marks. Weakness of joints should be penalized. 1o. THE BRUSSELS GRIFFON This pert, wide-awake and amusing breed orig- inated, as their name indicates, at the Belgian cap- ital. It is said, however, that English dogs, the Yorkshire, the Ruby Spaniel, and the Irish Terrier were associated in the manufacture, while some authorities claim that as far back as the 70’s the miners of Yorkshire possessed a little, wiry, red- coated dog similar in appearance and disposition to the Belgian dog, that accompanied them to their work stowed away in a roomy pocket. The Belgian Griffon gets his short, turned-up nose from the Toy Spaniel; his light-colored topknot can be attributed to the Yorkshire; while his independ- ence, the character of his coat and color must be credited to the Irish Terrier. By careful selection the type of these dogs is well fixed, and they breed remarkably true considering their recent origin. All breeders find themselves confronted from time to time with litters containing long faces, fluffy coats, and over sized. In Belgium there are two varieties, the rough and the smooth coated. It is, however, a misnomer to apply the term griffon to the smooths, as the word means rough. The rough coats are by far the most popular in Belgium, as well as elsewhere, and the breed has caught on rapidly wherever introduced, 268 TOY AND LAP DOGS for they are bright, entertaining pets and companions, and their dignity in relation to their size is most amusing. In Belgium the breed is cropped as well as docked, but in this country, as will be seen from the accom- panying standard, the mutilation is not permissible. The chief points to look for in the selection of puppies at from two to four months old and after are: Extreme shortness of face, short, compact bodies, crisp coats, good sound red color, and diminutiveness. The following are the standard description and code of points laid down by the Griffon Bruxellois Club, as revised at the general meeting in Brussels: GENERAL APPEARANCE.—A lady’s pet dog, in- telligent, sprightly, robust, of compact appearance, reminding one of a cob, and captivating the atten- tion by a quasi-human expression. Heapv.—Large and rounded, covered with rather coarse hair, rough, somewhat longer around the eyes, nose, and cheeks. Fars.—Semi-erect when not clipped, erect when clipped. Fyes.—Very large, black or nearly black; eye- lashes long and black; eyelids often, edged with black; eyebrows furnished with hair, leaving the eye perfectly uncovered. Nose.—Always black, short, surrounded with hair, converging upwards and going to meet those that surround the eyes; the break or stop in the nose well pronounced. 18 269 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK Lips.—Edged with black, furnished with a mous- tache; a little black in the moustache is not a fault. Cutn.—Prominent, without showing the teeth, and furnished with a small beard. Cuest.—Rather wide and deep. | Lecs.—As straight as possible; of medium length. Tait.—Upwards, and cut to the two-thirds. Cotor.—Red. TEXTURE OF Coat.—Harsh and wiry, rather long and thick. WeEIGHT.—Small dogs, male and female, 5 pounds, maximum. Big dogs, 9 pounds, maximum. Large bitches, 10 pounds. Fau.tts.—Pale eyes; silky tuft on head; brown toenails; showing teeth. DisQUALIFICATION.—Brown nose; white marks; tongue protruding. THE TOY PGODLE The Toy Poodle is a miniature replica of the French Poodle, and, like them, one of the most in- telligent, affectionate, and interesting of canine pets. The points to look for in selecting puppies at from two to four months being: Great length of head, narrow skull, short back, well-sprung ribs, clean neck and shoulders, straight forelegs. Under the rules of the Poodle Club, which have been recognized by the American Kennel Club, the maximum weight limit is ten pounds, the standard and value of other points being as follows: Tue Heap should be long, straight, and fine, not 270 TOY AND LAP DOGS too broad between the eyes, with a slight peak at the back; the muzzle long, not snipy, and beautifully tapered underjaw; teeth level; lips black, and not showing lippiness. Tue Ears long and broad, dropping close to the head. Eyes.—Almond-shaped; black or dark brown if brunette; blue or light brown if blonde; this where the coat is white or lemon; in other colors the eyes generally follow the color of the coat. Cuest.—Full, deep ribbed; loins slender, back short, slightly curved; tail should not be carried over the hip. Lecs.—Straight and well formed; feet round, with toes well arched; pads thick and hard. Should stand well up on his toes. Coat.—Is curly; of a wiry texture. In action is quick, proud, and graceful. VALUE OF PornTs.—General appearance and movement, 15; head and ears, 15; neck and shoul- ders, 10; body, back, and tail carriage, 25; color, coat, and texture, 15; legs and feet, 10; bone, muscle, and condition, 10. Total, 100. THE MALTESE These diminutive specimens of the canine race, as their name indicates, are descended from native dogs of the Island of Malta or Melita, in the Med- iterranean Sea. They are amongst the oldest of breeds. Certainly there are none older, for they are mentioned three hundred years before the Christian 271 THE COMPLETE: DOG BOGE era. The principal thing about them that attracts the interest of the public is their soft, silky, snowy- white coat. They were more popular twenty-five years ago than at the present time. The Maltese does not thrive well except in a moist climate. Even in England, where the climate is damp, the most expert fanciers have their hands full in keeping them in condition. The Maltese as a rule breeds very true to type. They are an ornament to a parlor or a carriage, but there their usefulness begins and ends, for many of them are snappish, and few of them have the in- telligence of the average pet dog of other breeds. The points to be considered in Maltese Terriers are: size—the smaller the better, if sound—luxuriant coat, and short body. In selecting Maltese puppies at from two to four months old, those are likely to make the best dogs which are the smallest (not weaklings), possess most coat, shortest bodies, and shortest legs. The following is the standard description and points of the Maltese Club of London: Heap.—Should not be too narrow, but should be of a Terrier shape, not too long, but not apple- headed. Ears.—Should be long and well feathered, and hang close to the side of the head, the hair to be well mingled with the coat at the shoulders. Eyes.—Should be a dark brown, with black eye rims, and not too far apart. Nose.—Should be pure black. 272 + a a English Pugs: Ch. Crock of Gold; Turret Shadrac; Stars and Stripes; Turret Sambv; Kentucky Babe; Fiddle Head and puppies. j sy i ! LOY AND LAP DOGS Lecs anD Feetr.—Legs should be straight, feet round, and the pads of the feet should be black. Bopy AnD SHape.—Should be short and cobby, low to the ground, and the back should be straight from the top of the shoulders to the tail. TaIL AND CaRRIAGE.—Should be well arched over the back and well feathered. Coat: LENcTH aND TExTURE.—Should be a good length, the longer the better, of a silky texture, not in any way woolly, and should be straight. Cotor.—It is desirable that they should be pure white, but slight lemon marks should not count against them. CONDITION AND APPEARANCE.—Should be of a sharp Terrier appearance, with a lively action; the coat should not be stained, but should be well groomed in every way. SizE.—The most approved weights should be from 4 to 9 pounds, the smaller the better, but it is desirable that they should not exceed 10 pounds. fate, or Porrs.—Head, 5; ears, 5; eyes, 4; nose, 5; legs and feet, 5; body and shape, 10; tail and carriage, 10; coat and length, 20; color, 15; con- dition and appearance, 10; size, 10. Total, 100. THE PUG There exists a popular opinion that this interest- ing breed of toy dogs had its origin through a cross of the Bulldog on some smaller breed. This suppo- sition is incorrect. The Pug is a very old breed, and shares with the Greyhound the honors of long de- 273 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK scent. It is probable that the Pug originated in China, a land whose dogs are characterized by short noses and curled tails. The Dutch, through their Fast Indian Trading Company, brought these dogs to Holland, and later they came to England, where they were known for a time as Dutch Pugs. About the middle of the last century two enthusiasts, Lady de Willoughby and Mr. Morrison, established kennels in England, and both succeeded in creating an ex- traordinary vogue. The stock from their respective kennels presented distinct characteristics and were known accordingly. The Willoughby Pugs were silver fawn, with very black marks and distinct tracings. The Morrisons were of a brighter golden fawn. The two strains have since been crossed so many times that these characteristics have been lost. The Black Pug is a more recent production, and appeared about 1886, and has since divided pop- ularity with the fawns. They are all alike in every- thing but color. For many years the Pug was the most fashionable of pet dogs, but long since has resigned that position to the Spaniels and some of the newer breeds. They still, however, have many staunch admirers. Pugs are not lacking in intelligence, as is some- times supposed, but are, on the contrary, highly in- telligent, wide awake, and alert, prompt to give warnings of the approach of strangers. They make the most interesting of companions. Their natural cleanliness, freedom from smell, and the slight care 274 LOY AND LAP! DOGS necessary to keep them in perfect condition go far to recommend them as house pets. The chief points to look for in the selection of puppies at from two to four months old, are: Short, square faces, great wrinkle, short backs, great bone. The following is the standard description and scale of points issued by the Pug Club: Bopy.—Short and cobby, wide in chest, and well ribbed up. Lecs.—Very strong, straight, of moderate length, and well under. FreretT.—Neither so long as the foot of the hare nor so round as that of the cat; well split up toes, and the nails black. Muzzie.—Short, blunt, square, but not upfaced. Herap.—Large, massive, round, not apple-headed, with no indentation of the skull. Fyrs.—Dark in color, very large, bold, and prom- inent; globular in shape, soft and solicitous in ex- pression, very lustrous, and when excited, full of fire. Ears.—Thin, small, soft like black velvet. There are two kinds—the “rose” and the “button.” Pref- erence is given to the latter. Marxinces.—Clearly defined. The muzzle or mask, ears, moles on cheeks, thumb-mark or dia- mond on forehead; back trace should be as black as possible. Masx.—The mask should be black. The more intense and well defined it is the better. Wrink_es.—Large and deep. 275 THE COMPLETE: DOG) BOOK Trace.—A black line extending from the occiput to the tail. Tatt.—Curled tightly as possible over the hip. The double curl is perfection. Coat.—Fine, smooth, soft, short, and _ glossy; neither hard nor woolly. Cotor.—Silver fawn, apricot fawn, or black. Each should be decided to make the contrast com- plete between the color and the trace and mask. S1zE AND ConpiT10on.—The Pug should be mul/tum in parvo, but this condensation (if the word may be used) should be shown by compactness of form, well- knit proportions, and hardness of developed muscle. The weight recommended as being the best is from 12 to 16 pounds (dog or bitch). SYMMETRY.—Symmetry and general appearance, decidedly square and cobby. A lean, leggy Pug and a dog with short legs and long body are equally objectionable. VALUE OF Points.—Symmetry, 10; size, 5; con- dition, 5; body, 10; legs, 5; feet, 5; head, 5; muzzle; &: ears, $; eyes, 10; mask, 9; wrinkles,iSs.taimuee trace, 5; coat, 5; color, 5; general carriage, 5. Total, 100, 276 FOREIGN DOGS SAMOYEDE AND ESKIMO DOGS Ir is to the writings of Arctic explorers that one must go to gather much that is enlightening con- cerning the various breeds of dogs which have been used for generations by the semi-nomadic people of these latitudes for traversing the barren, trackless regions of the North. In a general way these sledge dogs of the North may be divided into two classes—the Samoyede and the Eskimo. The Samoyede are smaller in size, less powerful, and not so wolfish in appearance as the Eskimo. They have pointed muzzles, sharply erect ears, strong, bushy tails, and short bodies. Although they are of the Spitz type, the wolf nature is always apparent, and one cannot doubt their white Arctic wolf ancestry. In general appearance they are more beautiful than the Eskimo, their thick coats being particularly decorative. Some of them are entirely black, with a patch of white on the chest, and many of the white ones have black about the head. The Eskimo, although not so attractive in appear- ance, is larger and much more nearly allied to the wolf. His resemblance to his wild relative is ac- centuated by his long, snipy muzzle and his erect, triangular ears, although it may be noted that his Eskimo owner has a fancy for the ear carried low. 277 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK The eyes are set obliquely like those of the wolf, and the formidable jaws are well equipped with powerful teeth. They have strong, arched necks, a broad chest, excellent body qualities, muscular quarters, and splendid running gear. Their usefulness is written into their frames, and they are capable of accomplishing long journeys with tireless endurance. The tail is long and bushy, and in the adult is usually carried over the back. The coat is dense, hard, and deep, especially on the back, where it may be from two to four inches in length, with a woolly under- coat to resist the penetrating snow and cold. It is longer about the neck and thighs and shorter on the legs and head. In color the Eskimo is the same as the wolf—black, or a rusty black, with a light greyish marking on chest, belly, and tail. Often a pure white dog may be seen, as Peary’s Lion, who was very little different from the Siberian breed, and in all there is the characteristic light spots above the eyes. The height of the Eskimo dog averages 22 inches at the shoulder. Many lupine traits are observable in the Eskimo dog. He does not habitually bark, but has a weird wolfish howl. He is remarkable for his thievishness and his destructiveness toward small animals. Pos- sibly he inherits from the wolf, with whom he is so often crossed, his facility, noticeable even in 1m- ported specimens of his kind, in picking the flesh from a fish as cleanly as if the bones had been scraped by a surgical instrument. They will devour almost anything from their own harness to tar rope. 278 FOREIGN DOGS A pair of greasy trousers is a luxury, and they are content if they get a good meal three times a week. THE OWTCHAR, OR RUSSIAN SHEEPDOG This interesting breed of dogs was first brought into England in Baltic trading ships, and were called Russian Terriers, but there is nothing of the terrier about them either in appearance or character. On the contrary, they are sheep and cattle dogs of long descent, and resemble very markedly the familiar English Bobtail Sheepdog. The Owtchar is the largest of all European shep- herds, many specimens standing thirty inches or more at the shoulder. They are strongly built, and are capable of defending the flock against wolves and other predatory enemies. They have massive heads, occasionally cropped ears, and the general proportions of the bobtail. That is to say, their length is equal to their height. Their chief char- acteristic is a long, dense coat, tangled, towsled, and matted like the fleece of a neglected Highland black- face sheep. Their greater size, untidiness, and the fact that they are often seen with a tail of natural length, distinguish them from the old English sheep dog. NORWEGIAN ELK HOUND This breed of dogs has been developed in Scan- dinavian countries, and although referred to as hounds, properly speaking are all-purpose dogs used for elk and bear hunting, as well as for black cock 279 THE COMPLETE DOG BOGE shooting. They are remarkable for their scenting powers, and it is said that under favorable condi- tions they will catch the scent of an elk or a bear three miles away. The breed is very old, dating back to Viking times, and among their notable characteristics are intelli- gence, courage, and great endurance. In appear- ance they are rather short in stature, with an average height of about 20 inches. The head, which is car- ried high, is large and square, broad between the ears; muzzle of good length; stop well defined; eyes. dark and full of expression; the ears sharply pointed, erect, and very mobile; the neck short and thick; chest broad and deep; the back straight and not too long. The tail is thick and heavy, and carried over the back. As in most northern dogs, the coat is long and deep on the body, with a dense, woolly undercoat. About the head it is short and smooth. In color it is all shades of grizzly brown, black and brown, or black. Tan is rare. A white patch on the chest is frequent, as are white feet. DOBERMANN PINSCHER This breed resembles the Manchester terrier, and undoubtedly originated through the crossing of dogs of that breed with some one of the continental varieties. At the present time they are the most im- portant of German terriers. In appearance they are well built and muscular, about the weight of an Airedale, and are lively, game, good tempered, courageous, and devoted. Their coat is coarser than 280 "TutyA] x9 Auuyof “ejnys :enyenyrlyy sy] ‘uenuesiy jo uvjsuopy "YD “Bog uvliaqig 410 vyley :pakowes—moyog ‘punoyy[yq uvisamsioy Ssayosulg ‘uvwsaqoq—doy, FOREIGN DOGS that of the Manchester terrier, but the distribution of their black-and-tan markings is the same. There is often a white patch on the chest. The tail is docked to a length not greater than six inches. The ears are cropped, but neither too closely nor too pointedly for smartness. The muzzle is long, and moderately fine; cheeks well muscled; eyes prefer- ably dark brown, expression friendly and intelligent. Generally they are a shapely dog, alert, sagacious, and attractive. THE BOXER This breed is widely distributed in Germany, where it shares in popularity with the Dachshund. In appearance the Boxer resembles the Boston of our show benches, and, like the Boston, is of mixed ancestry, doubtless a cross of the bull and smooth- coated terrier, with the blood of the latter predom- inating; that is, he is a terrier of bulldog character, with clean-cut head, wrinkled between high-set, cropped ears, muzzle broad and blunt, stop well de- fined, cheeks well cushioned, and the jaws often undershot. The back is short and level, the shoulders sloping, long and muscular, the chest deep, but not broad, the ribs well rounded, and the belly slightly drawn up. The legs are straight, the tail placed high and docked, the coat short, hard, and glossy; color, yellow or brindle, with or without a black mask. White patches are allowed. The height for dogs is 2114 inches; for bitches, 20 inches. 281 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK THE PAPILLON This breed is sometimes referred to as the squirrel spaniel. It is not, however, any more of a spaniel than is the Pekingese, and one of the countless stories in regard to its descent is that its ancestors were tiny, silky-haired lap dogs which the Spaniards brought over from Mexico in the sixteenth century. It is undoubtedly a very old breed, as dogs of sim- ilar type are seen in portraits in Spanish galleries as well as in paintings by Watteau, Fragonard, and Boucher. The name is evidently derived from its ears, which stand erect like the wings of the butterfly. There is another variety with drop ears. The fact that the tail is long and bushy and carried over the back like a squirrel is the reason that the name Squirrel Spaniel is sometimes applied to them. The Papillon is a lively little dog, with an abun- dant coat of long, silky hair. The head is small, the skull slightly domed, the muzzle rather snipy. About the face and on the front of the legs the coat is short; the eyes are dark, round, set somewhat low; the expression is alert and intelligent; the back is straight and rather short, but not so cobby as that of the Blenheim or the toy Pomeranian. The legs are short, straight, and rather fine. The average height is about nine inches, and in weight from five to eight pounds. In color they are ruby, red ma- hogany, reddish chestnut, dark yellow, or white with these patches. 282 FOREIGN DOGS THE CHIHUAHUA The Chihuahuas are but little known outside of this country, as they are natives of Chihuahua, one of the largest States of Mexico, bordering on the State of Texas. They are one of the most diminutive of breeds, and by many are believed to have been in the early days wild, and to have inhabited the dense forest land of Northern Mexico, some claim- ing that they were as expert as a squirrel in climbing trees, and were also adepts at burrowing. They are remarkably game little dogs, very exclusive in their affections, and perhaps the smallest of the canine family. Some very good specimens may be so small as to stand with all-fours in the palm of one’s hand, and not weigh more than twenty-three ounces, while other specimens turn the scales at four pounds. Their legs are very slender and their toenails very long and strong. In the wild specimens this was very serviceable to them in making their homes, as they lived in holes in the ground. Apart from their size, the most striking peculiarity and feature is the head, which is round, and from which projects a very short and pointed nose and large, standing ears, and also a peculiar skull formation, found only in this race. In color they vary somewhat in shade, reddish black and fawn; hair short, fine, and thick. The name is pro- nounced Chi-wa-wa. 283 DISEASES OF DOGS DIAGNOSIS Tue books devoted to the diseases of dogs are usually so technical that the amateur who refers to them for guidance finds only a confusing array of diseases, symptoms, and complications. It is well to know that most of the diseases enumerated are of such rare occurrence that it will not be necessary to consider them; and further, that all the symptoms in connection with certain diseases are seldom present in the patient. The greatest mortality among dogs occurs during puppyhood or early youth, and is the result of worms and distemper; among older dogs indigestion is the chief ailment. When called upon to minister to a sick dog do not be in a hurry about administering medicine. First be sure you know what ails the patient, and care- fully consider the history of the case and the liability to certain diseases at certain ages or under certain conditions, and then begin looking for symptoms that will confirm or refute your diagnosis. Do not fail to ask yourself the question, “Is the patient suffering from worms?” If a young dog, from two months to a year old, which has never been treated for worms, the fact that all dogs have worms will strengthen the opinion that it has them; and if the patient has the symptoms, treat for them. If, on the contrary, the dog has none of the symp- 284 DISEASES OF DOGS toms, or has been treated for worms, we must look for some other disease. If the patient is from four months to a year old, and is cutting his teeth, or has been at a dog show or associated with dogs which have, and acts listless and out of sorts a few days afterward, your suspi- cions should be directed toward distemper, if it has never had the disease; and by studying the symp- toms you can arrive at a positive opinion and treat accordingly. If your patient is an aged dog and has had dis- temper, and for no accountable cause is slowly going off in flesh and refuses to fatten, no matter how much he eats, and if his breath is foul, his bowels are irregular, and he seems all out of sorts and run down, indigestion should be suspected, due either to poor food, a weakness of the stomach’s digestive glands, or irritation set up by worms. The condition of a sick dog’s bowels should always be considered. Constipation and diarrhea are common ailments that are responsible for much ill health. Besides the character and frequency of passages, both diseases are accompanied by strain- ing and in some cases colicky pains. When a dog comes out of the kennel in the morn- ing stiff, sore, and barely able to move, is all humped up, and the history of the case shows that he was given either a hard run the day before, jumped into a pool while heated, became chilled by a cold rain, or slept in a draught or on a bed of wet straw, rheumatism should be suspected. 19 285 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK When the animal is found sitting on his haunches, his forelegs braced apart so as to expand the chest, his breathing accelerated, and the membranes of the eye dark and congested, and the history of the case is the same as that last given, pneumonia is in- dicated. If pressure upon the walls between the ribs causes him to flinch and groan, the pleura or membrane surrounding the lungs is affected, and we have pleurisy. If the small veins of the eye show a yellowish tinge, it is an indication of a disordered liver, and the treatment for jaundice should be administered. If a dog has been in good health and is suddenly taken sick, exhibiting violent symptoms of pain and great distress, with attempts to vomit or a rigidity of the muscles, poison should be suspected, par- ticularly if he has been allowed to run about freely, or other dogs in the neighborhood have been sim- ilarly affected. CARE, DIET, NURSING Absolute cleanliness, an unfailing supply of fresh air, a suitable temperature, plenty of fresh water, general comfort, and last, but not least, companion- ship, are needed by a sick dog. Locking a dog in a darkened room or stall, or an unaccustomed change, will work havoc with a sick dog. He wants to see his master, relies upon his companionship, and turns to him as if to a god, with a sublime confidence in his master’s ability to help him in his difficulty. A 286 DISEASES OF DOGS word of approbation is often worth more than drugs, and he will frequently eat and take nourishment simply to please his master. Diet.—If the dog is down with some febrile dis- order that is rapidly weakening him, it is important that he take some nourishment, and necessarily it must be of the lightest and most sustaining char- acter. Medical practitioners and trained nurses have brought the dietary of the sick-room to a per- fection that the canine practitioner can study with good results. There are foods prepared by Spratt’s patent for this purpose that are very useful. Milk, mutton broth, gelatine, and raw eggs are valuable foods. Boiled rice is easy of digestion. Raw beef or mutton, minced or chopped fine, fed a few tea- spoonfuls at a time, will act in many cases as a tonic to an exhausted stomach, and should be resorted to, as there is always danger of a disordered stomach rebelling against long-continued liquid food. A tea- spoonful of brandy or port wine will frequently cause the stomach to retain food that would otherwise be rejected. It is best given in the form of an eggnog and fed a few teaspoonfuls at a time. A dog will eat small quantities of food offered from his master’s hand which he will refuse from a dish. Do not allow food to remain before him after he has declined to eat. Remove it at once and offer it at some future time. 287 THE COMPLETE DOG BOGE DISTEMPER This most dreaded of all diseases of the dog gen- erally develops in the first year of life at a period approaching maturity, or is associated with the cut- ting of the permanent teeth. The disease has been compared to typhoid fever in man, but really re- sembles measles, as both are infectious infantile dis- orders transmitted through similar channels, and one attack successfully overcome renders immunity from a second. For a great many years distemper was thought to be the result of kenneling in damp, cold, or poorly ventilated buildings, defective drain- age, exposure, general neglect, improper or putres- cent food, and other anti-hygienic conditions. This is a mistake, as distemper, like many other diseases, is due to a germ, and unless the germ is present dis- temper never exists. The unhygienic conditions previously mentioned simply favor its propagation and dissemination, as dogs living in an unhealthy atmosphere have low powers of resistance. There are innumerable channels through which a dog may be infected with distemper. The germ is of remarkable vitality, and is conveyed through the air or on a person’s clothes, or a dog which has already had the disease can convey the germ to a well dog. The use of kennel, feeding dishes, or shipping crates that have been used previously by an affected animal is a common mode of inoculation. Dog shows are active mediums for the spread of the dis- ease, and when portable benching is used it is highly 288 DISEASES OF DOGS important that it should be thoroughly cleansed and disinfected. Symptoms.—Distemper attacks dogs in different ways, but the most familiar form is that in which the membranes of the eyes and nasal passages are affected, the principal symptom being a catarrhal discharge. Any attack of this kind is usually pre- ceded by listlessness and lack of appetite. The patient avoids the light and courts solitude. All the symptoms of a common cold then manifest them- selves, as sneezing and a dry, husky cough. Com- plications, however, frequently develop early in the disease and result in the death of the animal. The symptoms mentioned are those of the catarrhal form, and a great many people have an idea that this is the only form in which distemper appears, and that a dog does not have the disease unless there is a discharge from the nose. This is a mistake, for in some cases the virus attacks the intestines alone, and in others the liver or the bronchial tubes. The action of the virus that is least understood, and in which the symptoms are most commonly ascribed to some other cause, is when it is concentrated upon the brain and nervous system. In this form the animal dies from collapse or develops epileptic spasms and convulsions with other symptoms that are ascribed to worms, and accordingly the puppy is doped without avail, for in these cases death ensues in a few hours or the patient lingers along for a week, and a post-mortem reveals neither worms nor any other exciting cause, and from the absence 289 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK of all catarrhal symptoms distemper is not suspected. In the treatment of distemper most breeders and owners make the mistake of neglecting the pre- monitory symptoms and do not begin to treat or properly care for the patient until the disease is fully developed. As previously stated, the disease de- velops slowly. First, the dog is off his feed, then the cough develops; and, presuming that the dog is otherwise well and the cough will pass off in a day or two, the patient is allowed usually to occupy his usual quarters, sleep out of doors and exercise in all kinds of weather, or dismissed from the mind until the eyes show a suspicious stickiness or the nose discharges a purulent mucus. The owner always should be on the lookout for distemper, and when a dog, at the distemper age, which has never had the disease presents a suspicious symptom, should lose no time in placing him in good, warm, dry, comfortable quarters, and keeping him there until he has entirely recovered. The prime factor in treating this disease is good care and nursing. The patient’s bedding must be changed frequently, discharges from the nose and eyes carefully sponged away, and the appetite catered to, and highly nutri- tious and easily digested foods given. (See chapter on nursing.) If there are any symptoms of worms, treat for them with vermifuges. Treatment.—The specific germ of this disease has never been isolated, therefore a true culture of the germ has never been made. The best-known rem- edy is Dent’s Distemperine, the result of experi- 290 DISEASES OF DOGS ments made by veterinarians connected with the United States Department of Agriculture, and in a public test, showing that ninety per cent of the cases in which it was used recovered. Vomiting —A number of complications are liable to develop with or follow a case of distemper. Among them are vomiting, which can be prevented by carefully selecting those foods that the stomach digests most easily; but if the stomach refuses to retain even the most digestible of these, give from two to four drops of Schell’s strength of hydrocyanic acid, combined with from two to eight grains of pepsin and ten to forty grains of bismuth. Diarrhea.—Diarrhea must not be checked unless it is very severe and the discharges are tinged with blood. In such cases give a gruel made of toasted wheat flour and milk. The tannate or sub-gallate of bismuth is useful in these cases in doses of from ten to forty grains, and one dose may give satisfactory results; if it does not, from five to ten grains of chalk with from five to twenty grains of ether or laudanum should be administered in a little milk or soup. Fits—Epileptic fits and derangement of the nervous system are difficult to treat during the course of the disease. If they are caused by cutting teeth, lance the gums; if due to worms, treat for them before the system becomes too debilitated to stand the drugs necessary to remove them. If, however, the convulsions are severe, frequent, and exhausting, they can be relieved by giving bromide of potash in doses of from five to twenty grains four 291 THE COMPLETE, DOG BOOK or five times a day, either in a capsule or watery solution. If the excitement is extreme the bromide can be combined with from three to ten grains of chloral. The latter drug should be mixed with mucilage to prevent its irritating the throat. In: conclusion, the owner should be cautioned again against exposing the dog to the cold during the course of the disease or convalescence. In some cases after a few days’ treatment a marked improve- ment will be observed in the patient’s condition, and the caretaker, correspondingly elated and en- couraged by a spring-like day, particularly if the weather has been damp and stormy, will admit the puppy to the kennel yard for a breath of fresh air. The puppy, after blinking in the sun and stretching, often will select some damp spot on which the sun strikes and curl up for a nap. A few moments’ ex- posure under these conditions are sufficient to induce serious conditions, and the next morning all the symptoms are present, or the labored breathing in- dicates a fatal congestion of the lungs. INTESTINAL PARASITES Until a very recent period worms were thought to be of a spontaneous origin, brought about by the influence of heat upon decaying vegetable matter, and it was, and still is, freely asserted that puppies are born with worms inherited from the mother while still in utero. This is a mistake, as worms spring from individual eggs, and have a complete life history of their own. 292 DISEASES! OF DOGS Rounp Worms.—The principal species are round worms and tape worms. The first-named commonly infest puppies, and consequently are most dreaded by breeders. In shape and size they resemble common angle worms, but in color are lighter, being almost white or only a pale pink. In adult dogs these worms, when full grown, are from three to seven inches long; in puppies they are about half that length and as thick as common white string. Round worms live in the small intestines, sometimes coiled in such masses as to obstruct the passage, and occasionally they wander into the stomach or are passed by the bowels. It is easy to understand that when one dog in a kennel is infected with worms millions of eggs will be passed with the feces. These are scattered all over the floors, bedding, feeding and drinking pans. They get on the dog’s coat, are licked off and swal- lowed and in numbers of ways gain entrance to the digestive tracts of other dogs, where they soon hatch out and in ten days are fully developed. This rapid development accounts for the popular belief that puppies are born with worms, for breeders who have held post-mortems on puppies scarcely ten days old have found in their stomachs fully developed round worms could account for their presence in no other way. They overlooked the fact that the prospective mother, confined in a kennel infested with worms, would get these eggs attached to her coat, belly, and breasts, and the young, as soon as born, would 293 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK take these eggs into their stomachs with the first mouthful of milk. Symptoms.—Worms are responsible for so much sickness and so many symptoms that it is prac- tically impossible to mention all of them; but their presence can safely be suspected in all dogs which have not been recently treated for them, as well as in cases where the patient is run down, unthrifty, and out of sorts. Other symptoms are: a hot, dry nose; weak, watery eyes; pale lips and gums; foul breath; mean hacking cough, and a red, scurfy, pimply or irritated condition of the skin, and harsh, dry, staring coat that is constantly being shed. Wormy dogs some- times have a depraved appetite, and will eat dirt and rubbish. Some days they are ravenously hungry, the next day they will not eat at all; their sleep is disturbed by dreams and intestinal rumbling; the urine is high colored and frequently passed; bowels irregular; stomach easily unsettled; watery mucus is frequently vomited, and the mouth is hot, sticky, and full of ropy saliva. Puppies which are full of worms bloat easily and are pot-bellied. After feeding their stomachs distend disproportionately to the amount of food consumed. Their bodies are also subject to scaly eruptions and their bowels to colicky pains; they do not grow as rapidly as healthy puppies should, and instead of playing with each other they curl up and sleep hour after hour; they get thinner, weaker, and more lifeless from day to day, and if they do not waste away or die in fits 294 DISEASES OF DOGS and convulsions with frothing at the mouth and champing of the jaws, grow up coarse-jointed, rickety, and misshapen. Puppies with worms are also liable to paralysis of their rear limbs, and on removal of the worms the puppies regain control of the affected parts. Prevention.—The prevention of worms is a subject of importance to every breeder. There should be a continuous fight kept up against fleas and dirt. There is nothing better than coarse soap, plenty of hot water and a scrubbing brush; dash buckets of boiling water over the floors and walls and white- wash the kennels frequently. Change the bedding twice a week and burn all old straw, litter, and dirt. Treat your puppies at two, four, and six months old for worms. Treat all brood bitches for worms, and give them a bath ten days before whelping, so as to cleanse their coats of any eggs that may be attached to breasts or coats. The mixing of a tea- spoonful of powdered charcoal with a dog’s food once a day will tend to keep the intestines clear of the mucus where the eggs find a most hospitable home. Treatment—Many different drugs are recom- mended for the expulsion of worms, and some of the prescriptions handed down by the old school of horse doctors and dog men are more to be dreaded than the worms, as it is an unfortunate fact that about as many dogs are killed by medicine as by worms. The drugs in common use for worm cures 295 THE COMPLETE DOG BOO are areca-nut, santonine, calomel, and turpentine. They are all very powerful, and should be com- pounded with care. As an illustration, areca-nut is an irritant only a little less severe than powdered glass. Santonine is a poison that frequently causes fits and convulsions. Calomel usually acts on the liver and not on the worms, while turpentine severely irritates the kidneys. The safest and most effectual remedy for round worms is Dent’s Vermifuge. It can be obtained from druggists in either liquid or capsule form, and will be found more economical and re- liable than anything the druggist can prepare. The capsules are of soft, elastic gelatine, the dose is ac- curately regulated, and they are easily administered. Tapeworms.—As their name indicates, tape- worms are made up of flat joints or sections half an inch or less in length that resemble pieces of white tape. These sections will sometimes be found scattered about the kennel in the feces or hanging from the anus of an affected dog. There are a num- ber of species of tapeworms. The head of the tape- worm, which is the smallest part and is scarcely larger than a thread, has a blind or sucker mouth by which it attaches itself to the intestines and through which it draws its nourishment. The tape- worm does not lay eggs, as the round worm does, but reproduces itself by the segments that form the body. These segments are smallest at the head, and as they recede gradually increase in size and are re- placed by new segments until finally they become full grown or ripe. When this stage is reached they 296 DISEASES OF DOGS detach themselves from the body of the worm and are passed in the feces. Symptoms.—The indications of tapeworms are in some cases similar to those of round worms, but often they are indefinite. Their presence, however, may be suspected in adult dogs with voracious ap- petites which remain unthrifty and out of sorts, or in dogs affected with chorea, partial paralysis, or nervous affections, and those which are generally out of sorts. A dog presenting these symptoms which has been treated for round worms without results or been given tonics without improvement in his condition, should be treated for tapeworms. One of the best remedies for both round and tape- worms—which makes it very valuable for puppies— is an emulsion of pumpkin seed. This is the active principle of Dent’s Vermifuge. We have found it very effective in both old and young dogs, and for round worms as well as tapeworms. We do not wish our readers to infer that the others are not as good, but what we wish to say is that for such diseases as worms and distemper the specially prepared rem- edies are more reliable than ordinary prescriptions. SKIN DISEASES This disease, like itch in man, is due to the pres- ence of a small insect which burrows or tunnels through the skin, and in these canals the female deposits her eggs, which hatch out in about two weeks. The young then continue the burrowing operations of their parents, occasioning the most in- 297 THE COMPLETE DOG BOGOR tolerable itching. Mange is a local affection, but the uneasiness and loss of sleep caused the animal by the continued scratching and biting in its efforts to allay the itching have a very debilitating effect upon the system, and if neglected will soon trans- form the healthy, sleek-coated pet into one of the most loathsome and pitiful of objects. The disease generally makes its appearance first at the elbows, under the forelegs, on the chest, forehead, base of the ears or root of the tail, and then spreads all over the body. Causes.—In dogs this affection, the commonest of direct skin diseases, is the result of contact with a dog or other animal similarly affected, or is con- tracted by occupying the yard, kennel, or shipping crate of an animal so affected. In humans the skin cocci which causes dandruff and baldness are transmitted usually through hats, hat racks, and the use of public brushes and combs in hotels and barber shops. Treatment.—In the treatment of mange and other skin diseases, absolute cleanliness must be insisted upon. Upon a dog showing signs of having this affection it should be immediately removed from its quarters, the bedding burned, and the entire kennel washed and disinfected. The dog’s entire body should then be washed in lukewarm water with a good dog soap to soften and break up scabs and scales. A mange lotion should then be applied to all affected parts and the thoroughness with which the medicinal agents are applied is fully as important 298 DISEASES OF DOGS as the remedy which is used, for there are many lo- tions that will cure this disease, providing they are properly used. Among them are sulphur and lard ointment, sulphur and lime solution, crude oil, crude oil and sulphur, coal tar, glycerine, cocoanut oil, as well as the regular mange cures, such as Dent’s Lotion, Ashmont’s, Eberhardt’s, and others. Re- peat the application every day for four or five days, then wash clean with lukewarm water. Repeat the application for another week or ten days, and again wash, and if the skin is not in a healthy condition repeat the application. Blood purifying pills should also be given three times a day, so as to thoroughly cleanse the system. For parasitic conditions of the human scalp Dent’s Mange Lotion is used by hair dressers and barbers in cases that will not yield to ordinary treatment. Only a small quantity should be used at a time, but it is highly important that it be rubbed thoroughly into the scalp. 3 This mange lotion destroys the parasites and skin cocci that cause dandruff and premature baldness, and in connection with a good dog soap, is a treat- ment for diseases of the human scalp that no one need hesitate about trying or recommending to their friends. FiczEma.—Similar in appearance to mange, but different in its origin, this disease is due to an im- pure condition of the system, and not to a burrowing parasite. Causes.—Lack of exercise; dirty, damp kennels; 299 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK too heating a diet; fleas, lice, and local irritation; indigestion and neglect. Symptoms.—The belly, elbows, inside of thighs, and back of the forelegs are the parts first affected; the hair sacs or follicles are principally the seat of the disease. These become inflamed, and when the animal affected is white the hair at the roots has a reddish, rusty look. If prompt means are not taken to check the dis- ease the inflammation runs on rapidly, the entire skin and subcutaneous tissues are involved, and the hair drops out from the affected follicles; purulent matter now exudes and pustules form that break open, and the matter from them runs together and forms scabs that crack open and bleed, and the animal becomes an exceedingly pitiful and loath- some object, and emits a very disagreeable odor. This disease is not so contagious as mange, but is more difficult to cure. Treatment.—To insure a radical cure of this dis- ease, internal treatment is of fully as much con- sequence as external applications, and in obstinate cases both must be persevered in for some time. To cleanse the system use a good blood purifying pill, and to the affected parts apply one of the lotions or try the following prescription: Wright’s solution of coal tar, 1 ounce. Goulard’s extract of lard, 1 drachm. Glycerine boracis, I ounce. Distilled water to make 8 ounces. Directions: Bathe parts frequently. 300 DISEASES OF DOGS Another useful ointment for eczema is: Resorcin, I scruple. Creolin, 20 minims. Almond oil, 1 drachm. Lanolin, I ounce. Apply night and morning to affected parts. Warts.—The condition of the system that gives rise to warts 1s not well understood, and they appear upon the healthiest dogs quite as readily as upon those which are debilitated or unthrifty. The lips, gums, tongue, and entire mucous membrane of the mouth are frequently affected. Their appearance is objectionable, and it is advisable to remove them. A few scattering warts can be clipped off with a pair of sharp curved surgeon’s scissors and the stumps touched with nitrate of silver to check the bleeding. Touching with a hot iron is one of the safest and surest methods of removing warts, and the pain occasioned by this operation is not severe. When there are a large number of warts and the mucous membrane is covered with them, or they appear in large bunches, they are not so easily dis- posed of. Too many of them must not be removed at any one time, no matter by what means, or severe inflammation will be set up that may be extremely dificult to control. Therefore in these cases clip off only a few at a time and then sponge the mouth with a solution of chlorate of potash, a teaspoonful to a glass of water. Large warts may be removed by ligating them with a silk cord or catgut close to the skin. 20 301 THE COMPLETE, DOG BOOK The perverted state of the skin which gives rise to warts can generally be corrected by using a blood- purifying pill, and it is wise to give all warty dogs a course of treatment with them, so that there will not be a recurrence of the excrescences. STOMACH AND BOWELS Dogs have powerful organs of digestion, but the heavy task they put upon them in the way of gorg- ing upon all kinds of food, the recklessness they show in swallowing stones, coal, dirt, and bones, and the carelessness of owners in feeding frequently result in a loss of tone and power of the dog’s stomach, and render it unable to perform its important function in the process of digestion, and the food eaten, instead of being made fit for the nourishment of the body, acts as a heavy load and irritant to the stomach, or produces disorders and diseases of the bowels, such as indigestion, diarrhea, and con- stipation. InpicEst1on.—This is the commonest of all canine diseases and the greatest cause of unthriftiness and ill health. The appetite is irregular, wholesome food is refused or eaten mincingly and slobbered about, and a preference is shown for garbage and _ indi- gestible matter. There is generally considerable thirst, and the food taken into the stomach is fre- quently vomited in a more or less altered condition and mixed with slime and mucus. If it remains in the stomach it ferments and generates gas, which distends the abdomen and causes pain and uneasi- 302 DISEASES OF DOGS ness. The breath is foul and offensive, the gums inflamed, the tongue coated, and the bowels de- ranged. The animal is dull, listless, and out of sorts. Treatment.—Carefully regulating the diet and at- tention to sanitary conditions will effect a cure in ordinary attacks. If there is much pain and systemic disturbance, remedies must be administered. If the stomach is full and there is gaseous distention, vomiting can be induced by giving two teaspoonfuls of wine of ipecac as a first dose and a teaspoonful every ten minutes thereafter until the stomach is emptied. On the contrary, if severe vomiting exists, ten or fifteen grains of the subnitrate of bismuth may be given to settle the stomach. If there is a state of constipation or diarrhea the remedies that are recommended for such conditions should be administered. The patient should be fed an easily digested diet, such as raw lean beef, chopped fine, gelatine, meat soups, and stale whole-wheat bread, boiled rice, and fresh milk. In this disease, as in worms and distemper, Dent’s Condition Pills will be found efficacious, as they are made from drugs especially selected for dogs, and assist in the digestion of foods as well as tone up the organs of digestion. For the benefit of owners, however, who do not have them on hand we give two useful prescriptions: Bicarbonate of soda, 2 drachms. Tr. rhubarb, 3 drachms. Tr. Gentian, 4 drachms. Tr. nux vomica, I drachm. ie THE: COMPLETE DOG BOOCER Liq. bismuth, 1 ounce. Water, 6 ounces. Dose, a teaspoonful to a tablespoonful after feeding. For those who prefer powders, take: Ingluvin, % to 2 scruples. Carbonate of bismuth, % to 2 drachms. Powdered nux vomica, I to 3 grains. Mix and divide into 12 powders, and give one three times a day after feeding. ConstIPATION.—This ailment 1s common to all dogs, and is due generally either to neglect or igno- rance upon the part of the owner. Regular exercise and discrimination in feeding will keep most dogs’ bowels in good condition and thereby determine the condition of the animal; for biliousness, disorders of the liver and kidneys, and:the attendant conditions of foul breath, loss of appetite, languor, rough coat, and general unthriftiness are frequently due to the fact that there has been absorbed into the system certain poisonous products thrown off by the refuse matter that has for several days been lodged in the large intestine. Causes.—The fecal matter in the intestines be- comes hard, dry, and lumpy unless there is an un- failing supply of water for drinking purposes. Con- finement in restricted quarters or chaining brings about a state of the nervous system that manifests itself by costiveness. If proper opportunity is not 304 DISEASES OF DOGS given dogs to relieve themselves, fecal matter ac- cumulates in the lower bowels and brings about paralysis of that part. A concentrated diet, like one of all meat, has not sufficient residue to properly stimulate the bowels. Wheat flour is constipating. Graham flour, oat and corn meal are not, but on account of the excessive residue will, if continued too long, overtax the bowels. Vegetables, such as cabbage, greens, and onions, have a laxative action on the bowels on account of certain medicinal ele- -ments, as well as their large amount of water. Symptoms.—Continued straining and the passage of hard, dry, lumpy matter; congested eyes; loss of appetite; coated tongue; offensive breath, and a list- less, out-of-sorts appearance. As the feces get pressed into the lower bowels in a compact mass, colicky pains occur and the belly becomes hard and distended. Treatment.—The first thing to do is to unload the bowels, not by strong purgatives that will only complicate matters, but by an injection either of soapsuds or a teaspoonful of glycerine. If thesowner does not care to use one of the regular remedies the following pills are useful. They should be made by a druggist: Ext. belladonna, 3 to 12 grains. Powd. rhubarb, 6 to 30 grains. Powd. nux vomica, I to 6 grains. The smaller quantities for small and the larger for the large breeds of dogs. The above should be 305 THE COMPLETE DOG BOGE carefully mixed and divided into 12 pills, one to be given twice a day after food. In all cases the cure must be looked for through a change in the diet and system of management. See that your dog’s supply of fresh water is unfail- ing and that he is exercised daily. If he has been fed largely on meat and wheat bread, feed with the meat a quantity of freshly chopped cabbage, spinach, dandelions, or beet tops. Substitute oatmeal, corn- meal, or graham bread for the wheat flour, or, better still, feed Spratt’s Dog Cakes, as they are an ad- mirably balanced ration that keep the bowels in a healthy condition. By a variation of these different foods and a course of treatment with Dent’s Condi- tion Pills, the system can be toned up and habits will become regular and the general health and ap- pearance improved. D1arrRHEA.—This disease, of common occurrence among young puppies and old overfed dogs, refers to abnormal changes in the character and frequency of the passages of the bowels. In this disorder the membranes of the bowels are not diseased, but simply pass off matter that irritates them. When the bowels themselves become inflamed and ulcerated the disorder is known as dysentery, and it is obvious that a simple attack of diarrhea, if not properly attended to, is liable to run into the much more serious case of dysentery. Causes——Errors in diet and indigestion are the common causes. The eating of decayed and irritat- ing food, often brought about by leaving stale food 306 DISEASES OF DOGS over from one meal to another, foul water, and in- juries caused by blows or kicks, will bring on this disorder. The retained excretions of constipation also throw off poisons that will unduly stimulate the bowels. A severe chilling and cold that forces the blood to the intestines will also set up diarrhea. Worms are a common cause, and among puppies changes in the milk of the nursing mother or the abrupt change to cow’s milk are frequent causes. Diarrhea is also brought on by the injudicious use of salts and calomel. Symptoms.—These are of course evident, and in- dicate the severity of the attack by their character and frequency. In an acute attack vomiting of offensive matter accompanies the loose, watery dis- charge from the bowels. Blood is sometimes present as a result of piles or a congestion of the membranes, as well as small amounts of mucus. In a simple attack of diarrhea the general health suffers but little, but if not checked the weakness becomes excessive, and among puppies the mortality is high. Treatment.—As the disease is simply nature’s ef- fort to throw off irritating matter, it should be assisted by giving a dose of castor oil to empty the intes- tines. The diet should be attended to. Feed milk, three parts, mixed with lime water, one part, and a milk porridge made by browning ‘wheat flour and then mixing it with milk. Spratt’s special foods are very useful in these cases. A good diarrhea mixture in severe cases is: 397 THE COMPLETE DOG BOO Laudanum, 1 drachm. Tr. rhubarb, 4 drachms. Peppermint, water to make 4 ounces. Dose, a teaspoonful to two tablespoonfuls three times a day. But generally all that will be necessary to do is to attend to the diet as previously described. Where worms are the cause, and their presence is always to be suspected, particularly if the nature of the dis- charge is variable, sometimes lumpy and covered by mucous froth and small air bubbles, their expul- sion must be accomplished by suitable vermifuges. Diarrhea in young puppies can generally be cured by changing the diet. Feed less milk, and for it substitute beef tea or wheat bread soaked in blood gravy. If there is much pain, give five or ten drops of paregoric. Precipitated chalk in doses of one- fourth teaspoonful for small puppies and one-half teaspoonful for puppies of two months and over, is a harmless and useful remedy in these cases, and the dose may be repeated every two or three hours. EYE, EAR, AND THROAT Some affections of the eye arise from debility, others are due to injuries. Ingrowing lashes or the presence of irritating bodies are also common causes. Eye: Symptoms.—Increased sensitiveness to the light; dimness of the eyeball; an excessive flow of tears from the eyes, running down over the cheeks; 308 DISEASES OF DOGS from the corner of the eye a discharge which thickens and becomes purulent, gluing together the swollen lids. Sometimes at the roots of the hair at the edge of the lids there appear small pustules. These break and discharge matter that dries into crusts, matting the hair, gluing the lids together, and destroying the lashes. Treatment.—Do not expose the animal unneces- sarily to the light; bathe the eye every hour with warm water to soften the discharge, and use a small wedge-shaped piece of sponge to remove accumula- tions of matter. Restrict the diet, give Dent’s purify- ing pills three times a day, and apply several times a day a saturated solution of boracic acid. Another useful lotion is: Zinc sulph., 15 grains; morph. sulph., 4 grains. Water to make 4 ounces. It should also be dropped between the lids. CANKER OF THE Ear.—The ear is the most com- plicated structure in the body and subject to a variety of disorders, the largest number of which are generally considered under one head of canker— a most painful disease that if neglected will result in deafness. Water dogs are most frequently affected, not only by water gaining entrance to the ear, but by the shocks to the system following the exposure they undergo, bringing on an unsettled condition of the digestive system, skin, and blood. Thorns, injuries, pulling the dog’s ears, accumu- lation of wax and foreign substances entering the ear are also responsible to a degree for these ail- 399 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK ments. Attention to the dog’s general health and cond'tion, judicious selection of food, and the treat- ment of all intestinal disorders, with attention to all those detai!s that will keep the blood pure and the stomach healthy, will be found the real secret for the prevention as well as cure of affections of the ear. There is also a condition of the ear confounded with canker in which the edges of the ear become hot, dry, and scaly, and the roots of the hair are covered with a whitish scurf. The dog 1s continually shaking his head or scratching at his ears to relieve the irrita- tion. These cases should be treated for what they are; that is, a form of eczema, and the scurf is the eggs of lice. The ears should be washed and soaked in warm water until all scurf and scales are removed, then carefully dried and mange lotion applied to the affected parts. The ointment recommended for eczema is also useful in these cases. In another class of cases, as a result of injuries or inflammation, the entire flap of the ear becomes greatly swollen, very feverish and tender, and a quantity of fluid forms between the cartilage and the skin of the ear. These cases are difficult to treat. The swellings are lanced easily and the fluid drawn off, but the ear fills up again in the course of a few hours. The best treatment is to insert on the inside of the flap a seton of tape from above downward, which will keep the wound open until the discharge ceases, when it can be withdrawn and the openings treated by dusting iodoform over them twice a day. When the membrane lining the external passage 310 DISEASES OF DOGS of the ear is inflamed and otherwise affected we have external canker of the ear. At first there is a redness and slight swelling, which is seldom noticed, or no importance is attached to it. The dog will shake his head and show uneasiness. ‘This is fol- lowed by ulceration and suppuration; a_ black, offensive discharge develops which may extend both ways. Sometimes it runs back into the head and involves the ear drum and the small bones of the ear, producing internal canker; but more often it runs outward and involves the outer passages, and we have external canker. The ear will be found red and swollen, the exudation dries and forms scabs, pus is generally present, and there are numbers of bright red spots on the inside of the flaps and along the ear passage. The dog holds his head on one side and shakes it violently as though to get something out of it, and will slide along the floor on his ear or dig at it with his paw. The flaps of the ear become bruised and ulcerated, and the tips become cracked or split and are very sore. Treatment.—The general health should be at- tended to first. If the disease is chronic, but the animal’s digestion 1s good, cod-liver oil emulsion four times a day is useful. If the system is deranged and the blood is out of order—and in most cases it is—it is highly important that the system be thor- oughly cleansed and the blood cooled and purified by giving blood-purifying pills three times a day. If the dog is troubled with worms, take measures to secure their expulsion. ant THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK Cleanliness of the parts is, of course, important, but too much washing and neglecting to dry the ear properly will retard healing. The ear should be washed carefully with lukewarm water and dog soap, and, if necessary, use a small syringe to soften and remove all hardened wax. After washing, dry the ear carefully and do not wash again until it is necessary to do so from an accumulation of wax or purulent discharges. It must be borne in mind that too much washing at this stage is very harmful. The ear should be carefully dried with soft cotton and a canker lotion injected into the ear passage. Dent’s canker lotion is very good. The best of the lead and zinc lotions commonly used for this pur- pose 1s: Oxide of zinc ointment, 2 drachms. Resorcin, 10 grains. Almond oil, 1 ounce. In treating canker of the ear, have an assistant take the dog between his knees and turn the head to one side, so that the canker lotion can be care- fully and slowly injected into the ear. Coucus.—In themselves, coughs, no matter of what character, are not a disease, but simply an evidence of some other derangement of the system. To decide what particular disease is indicated by the cough is in some cases very difficult, for in many cases annoying coughs are the only symptoms that animals otherwise in the best of health present. It is quite important that all coughs be given atten- 312 DISEASES OF DOGS tion, for the first symptom of many dangerous dis- eases is a simple cough that, if treated in time, might prevent a serious illness. Causes.—Most coughs are associated with some derangement of the respiratory organs and air passages. They may be produced, however, by a small bone or other hard substance sticking in the throat. Worms are responsible for some coughs through reflex actions, as well as by inducing accu- mulations of mucus. Symptoms.—Coughs vary in character, as do the diseases of which, in many cases, they are the most prominent symptom. The cough of distemper has a peculiar husky, hollow sound. It loosens as the secretions of mucus become abundant and the huski- ness disappears. It is sometimes accompanied by sniffing, retching, and vomiting. In the case of common colds the cough is slight and generally soft and moist. In laryngitis or sore throat the cough is hoarse, brassy, and can be induced by slightly choking the upper part of the throat. It is accompanied by more or less pain in swallowing, and in some cases difficulty in breathing. In cases of acute bronchitis the cough at first is short, dry, and dull. It soon becomes easier and looser, and can be excited by pressure on the chest. In chronic bronchitis the cough is hacking and persistent, and continues week after week without change in char- acter or severity. In pneumonia the cough is at first short, dry, and intermittent. Later it becomes more frequent, and the matter brought up is of a 313 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK reddish tint like iron rust. This is considered diagnostic of the disease. In pleurisy the cough is short, dry, hacking, and very painful. In asthma the cough is wheezy, the breathing jerky, and the entire appearance is that of suffocation. Treatment.—All coughs do not yield to the same treatment. Some of the chronic coughs following colds, distemper, pneumonia, and bronchitis are re- lieved by cod liver oil. Dent’s Distemperine will cure many, while a cough syrup as follows is good for others: Liquor morphia, 2 drachms. Syrup of squills, 1 oz. Syrup of lemon, 1 oz. Water to make three ozs. Dose, from half a teaspoonful to a dessert spoonful three or four times a day. Dogs afflicted with hacking, gagging stomach coughs should first be treated for worms with vermi- fuge, and then have their systems toned up by a course of treatment with condition pills. Goirer.—Bronchocele and Goiter are terms ap- plied to enlargements of the thyroid glands that are located in the neck on each side of the windpipe about halfway down to the chest. The cause of these enlargements is not known. Some appear over night, others are slower about developing. Generally they are free from redness or pain, and to the touch are soft and elastic. Occasionally they are very hot and painful and increase in size so 314 DISEASES OF DOGS rapidly as to interfere with breathing, and the patient dies of suffocation. This affection is very common among puppies and is not unusual among old dogs. They are unsightly affairs, dangerous in some cases, and should be removed. Treatment.—The commonest treatment is paint- ing with the tincture of iodine. Three applications, with an interval of two days between each applica- tion, is sufficient in some cases; in others it will be necessary to use Dent’s Goiter treatment, both internal and external, to effect a cure. NERVOUS DISEASES The nervous system of the dog is very highly developed, and consequently subject to a variety of disorders, the most frequent being chorea, a dis- ease whose pathology is not well understood, and fits due commonly to worms, indigestion, distemper, teething, etc. CuorEa.—The most satisfactory theory in re- gard to the cause of this disorder is that the brain cells controlling a certain muscle or set of muscles are so weakened by the poison of distemper or some other cause as to induce them to send out muscular impulses without natural mental impulse or will- power. There is a form of chorea, due to a disturbed nervous system, induced by blows or injuries or to the presence of intestinal parasites which have de- ranged the digestive organs. This form of chorea is generally curable. The form which follows dis- 315 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK temper is not so amenable to treatment. There is also another form of chorea that follows the use of the imperfect vaccines and innoculations for distemper that have been used so generally the last few years. Chorea from this cause is almost always fatal. Symptoms.—These are so prominent and char- acteristic that there is no mistaking the disease, and the peculiar involuntary twitching of the muscles once seen is never forgotten. The entire body may be affected. Generally it is only one set of muscles, those of the foreleg or of the neck and shoulders, in which case the head bobs up and down in a most helpless manner. Where the hindlegs are affected the dog will suddenly drop one of the limbs from the hip downward, as if there were an entire loss of strength and power. This is particularly noticeable if it attempts to jump on a chair or table, for after one or two attempts it falls on its side or in a heap completely helpless. The top of the head is often affected, and twitches and throbs in a most peculiar manner, and the jerk- ing is commonly observable about the muscles of the eyelids, lips, and face. In severe cases of chorea the general health is affected, and the animal shows signs of suffering, probably due to anxiety and ap- preciation of its helplessness. In mild cases it does not affect the animal’s general health, and some field dogs have it all their lives without affecting their usefulness. The owner, however, is annoyed by the constant muscular movements and is always anxious 316 DISEASES OF DOGS to effect a cure. Some cases are quiet during sleep, others are worse. Treatment.—The disease occurs in the best-reg- ulated kennels, but dogs properly treated for dis- temper are less liable to the disease than those which are given too powerful remedies. In a case of chorea the first thing to do is to look after the animal’s general health. See that the bowels act properly, and this is accomplished best by dieting and the feeding of foods possessing lax- ative properties, and not by resorting to physics. If there is the slightest suspicion of worms, treat for them, as they torment the nervous system beyond all measure and are the cause of many attacks. If there is a tendency to constipation use well- boiled oatmeal, mutton broths with stale bread, beef well boiled, or raw, lean beef chopped. Give a condition pill after each meal to assist the stomach in the process of digestion. If there is much de- bility and weakness give emulsion of codliver oil. The other drugs used are: arsenic, iron, nux vomica, bromide of strontia, and strychnine in various doses depending upon the age and size of the patient. This disease is so slow in yielding to medicine that many valuable dogs are given up as incurable which could be cured if their owners only would persist in the treatment and not be discouraged too easily. Dent’s special remedies can be recommended as easily administered and adapted to dogs of all ages and sizes. Of course, if administered at the a 317 THE COMPLETE’ DOG/BOGOGE first appearance of the disease the chances for re- covery are much greater than in old or neglected cases. Firs.—Fits and convulsions are of commoner oc- currence in dogs than in other domestic animals, because the nervous organization of the dog is more highly developed and sensitive. Causes.—These are various, such as excitement, worms, teething, exhaustion, overheating, indiges- tion, and epilepsy. Treatment.—During the convulsions the body should be kept warm and the head cold by applying ice to it or bathing it in cold water. This will re- lieve the patient, after which the cause should be sought and removed. If from worms, give vermifuge; if due to teething, remove the milk teeth when loose and lance the gums where the second teeth are attempting to force their way through; if the result of indigestion or a weak stomach, apply the reme- dies suggested for the cure of indigestion. 318 CARE AND MANAGEMENT THE health and happiness of a dog depend upon its surroundings and the attention given its sieeping quarters, food, grooming, washing, and habits of life; for a healthy dog which is forced to occupy dirty, vermin-infested quarters and subsist on unwholesome food, and which is seldom or never exercised, groomed, or washed, will soon be in a miserable con- dition—dull, lifeless, rough-coated, and out of sorts. SLEEPING QUARTERS Every dog should be provided with sleeping quar- ters that he may consider his own. For a small pet dog a basket is all that is necessary, and for bedding there is nothing better than a folded Turkish towel, as it can be washed easily and kept clean. Women are partial to cushions for their pets. If these have re- movable linen covers that can be changed and washed two or three times a week, no objection need be raised to them, but the fancy velvet or plush-covered affairs commonly used are abominable, as it is im- possible to keep them clean. Large dogs which sleep in the house can be given a rug. This should be aired and dusted daily and washed at least once a week. Another good bed con- sists of a wooden frame about six inches deep over 519 THE COMPLETE DOG B00 which is tacked a piece of canvas or burlap, like the head of a drum. If a dog is kept out-of-doors it must be provided with a kennel]. A very simple one may be made from a kerosene barrel, the objectionable smell being removed by burning a handful of shavings in the barrel. This will ignite what remains of its past con- tents and the flames can be smothered by turning the open end of the barrel to the ground. With a piece of canvas hung over its front, that the dog can push to one side when going in or out, this will make a water and wind-proof kennel that is free from crevices that harbor vermin. If it is concluded to have a carpenter construct a kennel, have the entrance at the side and not at one end. A bench open in front, but protected at the sides and top, on which a dog can rest and enjoy the air, will add to its comfort. The top should be re- movable so as to permit of easy and thorough clean- ing of the sleeping apartment. Whenever it is possible to do so, place the kennel under a shed that is open to the south or east. This will render it cooler in summer and warmer in win- ter, and in every way more comfortable than if the roof of the kennel be exposed directly to the ele- ments. If a number of dogs are kept larger buildings must be provided, and the architect and builder should be consulted. Kennels should always be placed on clay or black soil, for fleas are very partial to and breed in 320 CARE AND MANAGEMENT the sand, and inmates of a kennel located on sandy soil are sure to be infested with fleas. If the dog is to be kept on a chain, a strong wire on which is an easily sliding ring should be stretched from a post near the kennel to another post or tree some distance away, so that by snapping the dog’s chain to the sliding ring he will have greater opportunity to exercise than if he were chained to his kennel or post. In these days of cheap wire netting it is better to provide a dog with a yard in which he can exercise freely, as the constant tugging when on a chain sometimes affects a dog’s throat and chest or the conformation of his shoulders. BEDDING In warm weather a dog requires little or no bed- ding and is probably more comfortable on bare boards. During cold weather oat straw makes the warmest and most comfortable bed, as it does not mat and is free from the seeds and dust that are the chief objections to hay. During the fall and summer pine shavings make a good bedding, as they are ob- jectionable to fleas, and this property can be inten- sified by sprinkling them with turpentine. In flea- infested sections some breeders mix tobacco scraps with the bedding. Another excellent practice is to lay a strip of tarred paper under the bedding. Every morning the bedding should be stirred up and examined. If it is dusty, damp, dirty, or packed down, it should be renewed, and to insure its being fresh should be changed once a week at least. go4 THE COMPLETE ROG BOGE FEEDING The dog is a carnivorous animal and in a state of nature lives on an all-meat diet. Domestication and association with man have so altered its organs of digestion that it now thrives best on a mixed diet— one containing meat, grain, and vegetables. Meat does not affect the scent of a dog nor does it cause germ diseases or worms, as is frequently stated, and a dog which has sufficient exercise would thrive on an all-meat diet. But when the life led is artificial and the opportunities for exercise limited, the danger from feeding too much meat lies in the fact that meat is so stimulating that it loads the system with impurities that the organs of the body are unable to eliminate, thereby resulting in diseases of the skin. Dogs should be fed twice a day. In the morning give a light meal, consisting preferably of one or two Spratt’s Dog Cakes. These should be fed dry, so that the dog will gnaw at them, thereby stimulating the secretion of saliva that is important to insure complete digestion. Feed a heavy meal at night, allowing the animal to eat until satisfied, for a dog always sleeps best on a full stomach. Dogs should never be allowed to nose over their food. As soon as they show that they have had enough the remnants of the meal should be immediately removed. Feeding time affords the owner a favorable op- portunity of informing himself as to the health of his dogs. If a dog does not eat his evening meal with the usual gusto, take it away and let him fast 322 CARE AND MANAGEMENT until the next day. Then try him again, and if he still refuses to eat, or only noses his food, consider him sick and take means to restore him to health. All that most cases require are a few doses of Dent’s Condition Pills. If the bowels are constipated and the liver is out of order, it may be necessary to give a laxative pill to insure a good cleansing of the system. Cases due to worms or distemper should be given proper treatment. Pet dogs suffer from overfeeding and the promiscu- ous use of sweets and other candies that produce indigestion and other ailments. The proper diet for them is Spratt’s Dog Cakes, stale or toasted bread and milk, a little well-cooked, lean meat, beef broths, etc., with an occasional bone of good size. If but one or two dogs are kept, table scraps, if fresh, not too highly seasoned, and free from chicken or fish bones, make a satisfactory and wholesome diet. Where a number of dogs are kept, an excellent food can be prepared by boiling sheep or beef heads until soft and then thickening the liquor in which they are boiled with stale bread, crackers, vegetables, and meal. Nearly all dogs are fond of boiled liver, and it can be given with good results once or twice a week, as it has a very desirable laxative effect upon the bowels. Dog cakes have come into general use in the last few years, and although some dogs refuse to eat them, a little tact and perseverance upon the part of the owner will accustom the dog to them. They 3*3 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK form a very satisfactory diet and the trouble of feeding is reduced to the minimum. Puppies can be weaned by dipping their noses — into a pan of milk. They proceed to lick the milk off from their noses and soon learn to lap it. They should be fed at least six times a day on milk that has been scalded; to it can gradually be added broken crackers and other solid food. Sour milk also should be given two or three times a week, as it is a preventive of worms. WATERING Dogs can go several days without food and escape serious consequences, but any restriction in their supply of drinking water will be followed by eruptions of the skin and a disgusting odor from the body. It is, therefore, important that dogs have before them at all times an unfailing supply of fresh water. During warm weather this must be frequently changed, to insure its being cool and pure. Earthenware crocks make good drinking vessels, as they can be kept clean without much labor, and are not easily tipped over. No benefit is derived from placing a lump of sulphur in the water, as sulphur is a mineral that will not dissolve in water. WASHING Dogs from time to time require washing to re- move the accumulations of dirt and the fine scales that the skin is constantly exfoliating. 324 CARE AND MANAGEMENT When washing dogs every precaution should be taken to prevent the animal contracting cold. If the bath is to be given out of doors during the summer, a warm, sunshiny day should be selected; if in the house, see that the room is properly heated, and do not allow the animal to enter the open air until the coat and skin are thoroughly dry. In washing large breeds, such as St. Bernards, they can be placed on some clean surface; collies and setters can be placed in an ordinary tub, while a footpan answers for small dogs. Fill the receptacle with lukewarm water as high as the dog’s knees. The animal’s coat should then be moistened all over, beginning at the neck and shoulders, either pouring on the water from a small tin cup or using a sponge. Dog soap should then be rubbed well into the coat, more water gradu- ally added, and the animal carefully rubbed until a profuse lather is produced. The head should be washed last and care exercised that soap or water does not gain entrance to the ears or eyes. Allow the lather to remain on a few moments and then rinse off with clean water. The animal must now be carefully dried with a coarse towel, those made from a salt sack cut into suitable sizes being efficient and durable. Even after a dog has been thoroughly dried there is danger of its taking cold, and while most authori- ties advise giving a freshly washed dog a warm kennel or a bed before the fire, a better procedure is to blanket it lightly and induce it to exercise for fifteen or twenty minutes. The natural warmth of 325 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK the body, induced by exercise and retained by a blanket, will restore the natural circulation quicker than artificial heat. If the weather is such that the dog cannot be safely exercised out-of-doors, ex- ercise him in a warm room and give him a warm bed of clean straw. A good meal at this time will nourish him and stimulate his powers of resistance. Therefore, the best time to wash a dog is about one hour before feeding time. When washing long-haired toy breeds, such as Yorkshires, place the dog in a pan and cleanse his coat by brushing him with a long-handled hair brush kept saturated with the soapy water. By preserving the part of the hair down the dog’s back, all danger of snarling the coat will be avoided. Rinse in clear water and dry by brushing before a fire with two or more ordinary hair brushes that can be alternately warmed and used. When washing collies it is advisable to dissolve the soap in the water instead of applying it directly to the dog’s coat, and in drying this breed brush the hair the wrong way and force the air into the coat with a fan. EXERCISE Dogs require plenty of exercise and unless they get it are unhealthy and liable to attacks of skin diseases, indigestion, constipation, and other bowel complaints. Some of the active breeds, like collies and setters, will get all the exercise they require if turned loose for a thirty-minute run, twice a day. 326 CARE AND MANAGEMENT Large breeds, like St. Bernards, are not so easily taken care of. They require a slow walk for at least an hour every day, and if it is not given them their bones and muscles do not develop properly. Pet dogs, such as toy spaniels or pugs, should be given a run every day, and it is an excellent idea to teach them to chase a rubber ball indoors, as in this way they can be given considerable exercise. On returning from exercising a dog, don’t forget to examine his feet for cuts, pieces of glass, thorns, or splinters. GROOMING There is an old stable adage that a grooming is worth more than a feed. This is also true of dogs. A dog should be brushed and rubbed down every day. Brushes and combs are, of course, useful implements for removing snarls and burrs, but after the coat is straightened out and the snarls removed, nothing is so good for putting on the finish as the naked hand, and a little care of this kind will work wonders in the dog’s appearance. FLEAS AND LICE Fleas are the greatest annoyance dogs have to contend with. The common flea does not lay her eggs on the dog, as commonly supposed, but in piles of rubbish, cracks in the floor, carpets, and rugs. These eggs hatch out in about four weeks, and jump upon the first dog that comes their way. The lather from most dog soap will kill fleas and lice; but if 327 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK the dog is returned to flea-infested quarters, he will probably accumulate another crop. The importance of keeping the yard and kennel clean, and the neces- sity of using some good disinfectant are evident. To properly disinfect a kennel sweep up and burn all old bedding and rubbish and then scrub the walls and woodwork with common brown soap and plenty of warm water; also dash buckets of boiling water over the floors and woodwork. Hot water, soap, and elbow grease are the best all-around disinfectants. To destroy odors, sprinkle the quarters with one of the commercial disinfectants. 328 THE LAWS OF BREEDING Tue breeding of dogs and other domesticated ani- mals is an art and not a science. Galton, a writer on heredity who has been extensively read and followed, reduced the breeding problem to an arithmetical proposition and laid down a simple rule that each parent contributed one-half to the physical and men- tal make-up of the offspring; consequently the grand- parents each contributed one-fourth; the great-grand- parents, one-sixteenth, and remoter ancestors pro- portionately fractional parts. These conclusions, from a mathematical point, are correct; from a practical breeder’s aspect, they are monumental errors. Galton’s theories did not explain the mysterious changes that are constantly taking place in animals. They were flatly con- tradicted by the fact that individual peculiarities are frequently lost in one generation, and no solu- tion was offered for the perplexing problem why some animals with certain traits or characteristics impress them conspicuously upon their offspring, while other peculiarities fully as pronounced in the individual are absent in the progeny. If Galton’s rule was founded upon facts, the generally accepted breeders’ aphorisms of “like begets like,” and “‘breed from the best,” would be above criticism or qualification, and as it is the soundness of these two apothegms as a general working rule for the breeder will not be On THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK questioned; but it can be truly said that they do not constitute the beginning and the end of the breeders’ art. HEREDITY AND EVOLUTION The great forces in nature are heredity and evo- lution. They are radically opposed to each other and in slow but unceasing conflict. Heredity, the master and passive force, is opposed to change and makes all living things a product of their an- cestors, with all their defects and weaknesses as well as their excellences. Evolution, on the contrary, is constantly effecting changes in both the physical and mental make-up of animals, so as to adapt them better to the conditions under which they live. Heredity, the base upon which all breeders operate, can be relied upon to transmit from parents to young all of the physical and mental peculiarities that have become fixed and have existed in the family for a number of genera- tions, but it will not transmit with any degree of certainty individual peculiarities that are not family traits. Whenever individual peculiarities appear, heredity aims to remove and obliterate them, and is concerned only in the perpetuation of the estab- lished family type. As an illustration, a certain strain of fox terriers may have splendid legs and bodies, but as a rule are short in head. A dog of this strain may come out with a long, clean, and in every way desirable head, and his body and general conformation be fully CS THE LAWS OF BREEDING up to the high standard of his family. A dog of this kind would be bred too extensively and bitches with all kinds of head would be sent to him. If a number of his puppies be examined after they arrive at or approach maturity, it will be seen that while as a rule these puppies display the general symmetry that distinguishes the family of the sire, they still have the family defects in head. The sire had a good head, but heredity would not transmit it with any degree of certainty because it was not a characteristic of the family or a dominant trait. The successful breeder, while he does not lose sight of the excellences of individuals, concerns himself chiefly with the excellences of families. If he has a fox terrier bitch which is symmetrical and generally desirable, with the exception that she has a soft coat, he does not breed her to a dog with a good coat unless he is sure that good coats are a character- istic of the family of which the dog is a member. If he had a bad-bodied, but nice-headed, collie, he would look around for the best dog which came from a family which were noted for their good bodies. It is by having a thorough knowledge of pedigrees and the general characteristics of certain families that breeders succeed in making those combinations of blood that are known as successful nicks, and these, when arrived at, should be adhered to as closely as possible. wi Sh THE COMPLETE DOG) BOOE IN-BREEDING In connection with the breeding subject there are certain laws and principles that must be observed. The most important of them is in-breeding. In the development of our most valuable breeds of domestic animals, in-breeding has been the main reliance of the breeder, and it has been practiced so closely and extensively that among some people the word in-bred has been accepted as synonymous with pure bred. This is a great error. Animals can be in-bred without being pure bred, and pure-bred animals are not necessarily in-bred. Correctly speaking, in-breeding is simply the mating together of animals closely related. The results of judicious in-breeding are a uniformity of type and a smoothness and finish that can be arrived at so quickly in no other way, and it makes possible the perpetuation of desirable characteristics. The effects of careless, injudicious in-breeding are loss of size and strength, weakened constitutions, susceptible to disease, and impotency. The continuance and closeness with which in-breed- ing can be practiced with safety depend upon the character of the animals the breeder 1s attempting to improve. With breeds of recent origin, among which there is much irregularity, slight relationship and little likeness in either shape, size, or temper- ament, in-breeding can be practiced frequently with- out fear of bad results, until such time as uniformity is arrived at. After that it must be practiced with care. Among animals that are pure bred, more or O04 THE LAWS OF BREEDING less related, and which breed true to a uniform type, in-breeding should not be practiced any more than is necessary to keep the blood pure or to preserve successful nicks. CORRELATION This principle is, that change in one organ or part of the body cannot be accomplished without modifications and changes in other parts of the system, and explains the difficulty breeders have in producing freakish specimens that will breed true to type, as nature insists through the operation of this law that a careful balance be kept between all the organs and parts of the body. A long-backed dog in nature’s plan should have a long head, and vice versa. Terrier breeders who have been trying for long heads and short backs know how difficult it is to circumvent this principle. It is also understood that a high degree of development in one part of the body is accomplished only with a lack of develop- ment in other parts, and this applies to special senses and mental traits as well as physical features. As an illustration: In reptiles, fishes, or long-snouted herbivorous animals, the increased development of the bones of the face is at the expense of the cerebral cavity. The lower forms of apes have large faces and small heads. In man the bones of the face are com- paratively small, while those covering the brain are largely developed. This is worthy of consideration by setter and pointer breeders, for the bench show standards call for setters with long, square muzzles, - 333 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK bench-show advocates deplore the fact that the type of setter developed by field trials has lost the old square muzzle and become what they term snipy- muzzled, and assert that this is an evidence of lack of intelligence. A greater error is impossible of conception, and the so-called snipy muzzle of field trial dogs is to competent biologists the strongest evidence of increased mental capacity, and the aggressive bird-hunting instinct of dogs bred from field trial ancestry is sufficient evidence that the American setter and pointer are being developed upon natural lines, for the relations existing between structure and function are such that by developing and breeding for bird-hunting instincts we will arrive at a structure that is useful, rational, and will breed true to type. ATAVISM This factor or principle in breeding is called by breeders casting back, or throwing back, and refers to the occurrence of an individual which re- resembles its grandparents, great-grandparents, or some remote ancestor more than it does its parents. Cases of atavism occur most frequently when cross- breeding has been resorted to at some more or less remote period. The purer bred and more uniform the type for the greatest number of years, the less fre- quent the appearance of cases illustrating this prin- ciple. Atavism is not the result of a failure or loss of power of heredity, and the only conclusion to be 334 THE LAWS OF BREEDING drawn from its occurrence is, that a trait or character- istic that had been dominant in the family of some ancestor had by process of nature been suppressed or held dormant until by another peculiar process of nature it received an opportunity to assert itself and become dominant. PRE-NATAL IMPRESSIONS There is a widespread belief that an impression made upon the mother’s mind while she is carry- ing her young will influence their intra-uterine de- velopment, and in this way abnormalities, birthmarks, and peculiarities in structure and color are accounted for. This belief owes its popularity as much as any- thing to the fact that the Bible credits Jacob with breeding cattle which were ring-streaked, spreckled, and spotted, simply through the influence upon the minds of the females of the herd made by a row of peeled rods. Modern biologists attach no great im- portance to mental impressions; birthmarks are largely the result of inflammations of the uterus, and the resemblances, fancied or otherwise, of arms and legs to lower animals are simply cases of arrested embryonic development or the result of mechanical pressure from the ligaments of the uterus or the umbilical cord. It is generally conceded that the habitual mental condition of the mother has an influence upon the fluids supporting the embryo, but this cannot be regarded as a direct mental im- pression upon either the foetus or its development. a5 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK TELOGENY This subject, “Does the first impregnation of the female have any influence upon the progeny of subse- quent breeding to other sires?” has been for years, and still remains, a disputed question. Scientists are arrayed on both sides of the question. Among dog breeders, the popular opinion is that it does, and many of the breeders who look with suspicion upon a bitch which has suffered a misalliance have had personal experiences with which to support their position. 336 THE LAWS OF BREEDING e WHELPING TABLE. Y E a 5 a =; 5 | + Te * . i > : * z . oe 4/1213 |Z 12 (2/3 (EUS (S/S SLS(S [SS 1S 18 [S/212 12 slid < = > SIA IP PR [APR lads] Otala] SAAR = aH a oa eal oa ‘ a om ines 2 22 Tm hoa me on . ae Pee Te ae ° om SBlSSISBlsef os /S8] oF| se) o8| Se] ob Sef od| Sef od | ss] eS | ss] o3| oe] oS/ Sef etl os 45|Se[S5| stisiisei sc) se] ss| sey 2s| gest es ss|selse|ssist|sbpst|seist| 3s BA op 2 Sop Sls of as] of | 3 of at] 8 fat] BofA] 8 of |S ofa] 8 of as] Bo | “a| Zo a] 501] 511] 311; 3) 1] 3) 1| 3) 1) ef 1) 3) 1{ 3) 1] 372] sf a] 2 2) 61 2| 6f 2 2) 4)2] 4) 2] 4f2| sf 2] 4] 2] 4) 2] 4) 2) af el 3 3] 713] 713 3] 5) 3| 5] 3| 5} 3| 4] 3| 5] 3] 5] 3] 58 3] 6] 3| 4 4] 3| 4] sf 4| 6] 4] cf 4| 6f 4| of 4| 5] 4] of 4] 6f 4] 6f 4] of 4| 5 5| 9] 5| 98 5] 71 5] 71 5| 715) 71 5| 68 5] 71 5| 715) 715] 7h 5] 6 6 6l108 6| 81 6] sf} 6| sf 6] sfc] 71 6] sf 6] sf 6] sf 6] sf 6] 7 7 7{u}z7| 9) 7] of z| of 7] 9g 7] sf z7| of z7| of 7] of 7] of 7] 8 8 | 12 slizf s}10) 8]10% s|10f 8|109 s| 9f 8] 10} s{i10f 8} iof s|i0f 8] 9 9 | 13 9} 13 gg g9lif o}1rd go] ud ol i0f of of ud og} ud of un 10 10 14 | 10 | 14 10 | 12 | 10 12110 | 119 10 | 12} 10 | 12 12410] 12 ll 11} 15 n| is 11 | i} 13f1l 134911 | 12 $11] 13 fu | 13 13 J 11 | 13 12 12 | 15 | 12 | 16 12 12 | 14 12 14412] 134912] 14912] 14 1412 | 14 13 13 37 | 13 | 17913 | 15 | 13 | 15 |. 13 15113] 14913] 15 8 13 | 15 15 1 13| 15 14 14 | 18 | 14 | 18 f 14 | 16 § 14 | 16 f 14 164 14] 15914 | 169 14 | 16 164 14 | 16 15 15 | 19} 15 15 | 17415 | 17] 15 17115] 16) 15 | 179 16 | 17 17115 | 17 16 16 | 20 } 16 | 20 § 16 18 | 16 | 18 § 16 1s! 16 | 174 16| 18] 16 | 1s 18 4 16 6 | 47 17 | 21 $17 | 21 8.27 | 19 f 17 | 19 | 17 19 117| 18917 | 199 17 | 19 19117 18 is | 22 f 18 | 22 18 | 209 18 | 20 f 18 20 | 18 | 19} 18 | 20} 18 | 20 § 18 | 20 | 18 19 19 | 23 | 19 | 23} 19 | 21 19 | 21 f 19 21419 | 2019] 219 19 | 21 21} 19 | 21 § 19 | 20 av | 24} 20 | 24 J 20 | 22 | 20 | 22 | 20 22 f 20 | 21 f 20 | 22 | 20 | 22 22 | 20 Py 21 | 25 | 21 | 25 | 22 | 23 § 21 | 23 § 21 21 | 23 | 21 | 22 f 21 | 23 9 21 | 23 93 | 21 22 22 | 26 | 22 | 26 f 22 | 24 oz | 24 f 22 24 f 22 | 23 | 22 | 249 22 | 24 | 22 | 24 | 22 | 24 23 23 | 27 | 23 | 27 | 23 | 25 f 23 | 25 | 23 25 (23 | 24 § 23 | 25 | 23 | 25 4 23 | 25 | 23 | 25 24 za | 28 | 24 | 28 f 24 | 26 | 24 | 26 fos 26 4 24 | 25 | 24 | 26 | 24 | 26 | 24 | 269 24 | 26 25 2 | 20] 25 | 20 | 25 | 27 J 25 | 27 | 25 27 125 | 26 9 25 | 27 | 25 | 27 | 25 | 279 25 | 27 | 25 | 26 26 | 30] 26 | 30 | 26 | 28 | 26 | 28 | 26 28 F206 | 27 | 26 | 28 | 26 | 28 | 26 | 28 26 26 | 27 MA : 27|31)27| 1427 | 294 27 | 299 27 29 | 27 | 28 | 27 | 29 f 27 | 29 99 | 27 | 29 | 27 | 28 Meat st. | fb fok tot ‘By MR 23} 1)28| 2428 | 304 23 | 30 | 28 28 | 30 f 28 | 29 f 28 | 30} 28 | 209 28 | 30} 28 | 309 28] 21 Be ea) Sa 5) Baa, ee DE 29] 2 29 | 31f 29} 1429 29 | 31429] 30929] 31429] 1429] 319 29| 31929] 2 ae UN cel ai AUG ~ |SEP OCT NOV JAN sv} 3 301 1$30| 2430 1430! 1430] 1) 30] 2 1} 30 3 ) aS a 31 31} 2$3i! 2 2 4 THE COMPLETE DOG S0OGk THE BROOD BITCH A bitch usually comes in season for breeding twice a year. The first time when she reaches maturity, which will be at from seven to ten months of age. Her condition can be recognized by restlessness, frequent urination, attention to other dogs, and a mucous discharge from the vagina, at first thin and watery, later streaked with blood, and finally of the appearance of pure blood. She should be isolated at once and carefully protected from the attentions of other dogs. A bitch can be bred the first time that she comes in season, but it is better to wait for the second sea- son before asking her to take up the burden of maternity, for it is a heavy drain upon the system. It is important that both of the parents of a pros- pective litter be of good health and free from worms or skin diseases: most of the puppies which die be- fore reaching maturity are the progeny of unhealthy parents. The period of gestation in the bitch is from fifty-seven to sixty-three days; sixty-one being the average. It is easier to raise puppies during the spring and summer than it is during the fall and winter, and for that reason make the matings accordingly. The whelping table indicates the dates puppies can be expected after the service dates. During the period of gestation the bitch should be exercised regularly but not violently, her diet should be varied and wholesome, such as Spratt’s 338 tia LAWS OF BREEDING Cakes, whole wheat bread, vegetables, well-cooked meat varied with raw meat, boiled rice, fresh milk, and soups mixed with some preparation of bone meal so as to provide bone-making material for her prospective litter. About the third week it is well to treat the mother for worms, and a few days be- fore she is due to whelp give her a dose or two of olive oil as constipation should be avoided at this time. What is needed is a mild purgative. Olive oil is usually sufficient, but if she is badly constipated, a mixture of olive oil and castor oil may be necessary. Strong, healthy bitches can usually be trusted to take care of themselves. If possible they should be allowed to occupy their customary quarters. It is important that they be quiet, comfortable, warm, and free from draughts. Provide plenty of clean wheat or oat straw in which she can make her own nest, and after she has her puppies the less she is bothered the better. The person who looks after her should be one to whom she is accustomed. She may refuse food for the first few hours after her labors, but light nourishment should be offered her, such as warm milk or beef tea. Do not neglect to have a bowl of fresh water by her at all times. In the case of pet dogs that have lived under highly artificial conditions the whelping is not always so easily carried on, and assistance is frequently neces- sary. If no veterinarian is available and the labor pains have begun and continue without result, Ergot may be resorted to. The dose of the extract is about ten drops for a ten-pound bitch, fifteen for Sao THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK one weighing twenty pounds, etc; it should be ad- ministered in a teaspoonful of water and given by the mouth. Ifa puppy is born and the mother is unable to break the membrane in which it is enclosed, the umbilical cord should be severed with a pair of sharp scissors and the membrane broken with the fingers. If a puppy is born and the mother is unable to develop any signs of life by licking, and she is obliged to turn her attention to another that is being born, the apparently lifeless puppy should be quietly removed, and, for a few moments, placed in a bowl of warm water up to its neck. A finger should then be moistened with a drop of brandy and applied to the puppy’s tongue. This will sometimes start a puppy to breathing, after which it should be carefully dried, warmed, and returned to the dam as promptly as possible. After the puppies are all born, restrain any desire to examine them. Leave them with their mother, who should be offered warm milk every hour. NURSING AND WEANING The important point in feeding the nursing mother is to select and carefully prepare her food, and feed it in smaller quantities, and at shorter intervals than usual, so as not to overload or disturb her stom- ach, as a derangement of the mother’s stomach is reflected in her puppies. A good diet for a nursing bitch is as follows: For the first day after whelping she should be fed milk and raw eggs in the proportion 340 THE LAWS OF BREEDING of two eggs to the pint of milk, not a large quantity at any one time, but every two hours. The second day give a pan of fresh milk to which lime water has been added in the proportion of a cup of lime water to a pint of milk; this should be thickened with well-boiled rice, dog cakes, or stale bread; at noon give a more substantial meal, adding meat, either cooked or raw, minced fine and in the proportion of one third the amount of biscuits or cereal; at night feed equal quantities of meat, vegetables, and cereals softened with milk or soup, and before going to bed, a drink of milk may be offered. The meat should be lean, free from fat, and mixed with the vegetables, and the cereals so that it cannot be picked out. Some bitches are so solicitious for the care of their puppies that they are loathe to leave them for ex- ercise. After the first day they should be encouraged to leave for a short walk at least twice a day. Watch the condition of their bowels. If there is any tend- ency to constipation give olive oil in suitable doses. If the bowels are too loose give bismuth in doses of ten grains up to a dram. Leave the mother and her puppies alone as long as they are doing well. Simply see that they have a ‘warm, comfortable nest if the weather is cold, and a cool place in the heated days of summer. Use every precaution to protect them against flies, for a few flies will keep a bitch and her puppies miserable. When the puppies are a week or ten days old their eyes open, they begin to crawl about, and there is 341 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK more expression to their whines and attempts at barking. The mother must now be encouraged to leave them for an hour or two each day for a slow, ‘quiet walk. After the first two weeks she will likely spend less and less time with them, but at night she should always be with them as they require her presence to keep them warm. It requires two or three weeks to wean a litter of puppies. Milk is, of course, the staple diet. It should be fresh and of full strength, as the milk of a bitch is stronger than that of acow. To teach puppies to drink milk, simply dip their noses into the pan; they will lick it off their lips, and after two or three times they will do their own dipping, and in a short time are lapping industriously. The milk can then be thickened with puppy meal, stale bread, Spratt’s puppy cakes, boiled rice, and in a few weeks they will be ready for a still more sub- stantial diet. It is well to bear in mind that the rule in feeding puppies should be little and often—four or five times a day. Sprinkle bone meal over their food. Egg shells well beaten up are good with beef or mutton bones to gnaw, but beware of fish and chicken bones. In drying up a bitch do not make the mistake of taking the puppies away too soon, and be sure to allow some of the puppies to nurse until her breasts are entirely dry. In case it is necessary to destroy a litter of puppies, always allow one or two of them to live and nurse the mother until her breasts are dry, otherwise she will undergo great suffering and it is liable to leave her with caked breasts, When the 342 ie CLAWS OF BREEDING puppies are six weeks old treat them for worms with Dent’s puppy vermifuge. This treatment should be repeated every two or three months until they are grown, and after that give them a dose of Dent’s vermifuge twice a year. As a usual thing the first puppies born are the strongest, and the popular opinion is that they will grow up that way. There is, however, no fixed rule about these things. In large litters the last puppy is usually the smallest, and breeders usually agree that it will never attain the size of its predecessors. This may be borne in mind when selecting puppies. The number of puppies that a bitch will bring up safely depends upon her size and strength. As a gen- eral rule, it is not wise to ask too much of her. If the mother is short of milk, it is well to provide a foster mother. The breed is of no importance so long as the individual is sound and healthy. Puppies can be brought up on a bottle if necessary. Ordinary cow’s milk is not as good in these cases as Spratt’s special food for that purpose, or one of the peptonized milks or infant’s foods that are used for babies. As we have said before, the principal thing to be avoided is intestinal parasites; therefore be sure that the mother is free from them before her puppies are brought into the world. 343 TRAINING THE power of speech is the only limit to the pos- sibilities of a dog’s education; for amiability, rare intelligence, powers of reasoning, and wonderful in- stincts are coupled with a devotion to and faithful- ness for its master that prompt it to obey his every wish, and as a result the human race in all ages and under all conditions has looked upon the dog with a friendly eye, cultivated his companionship, and, by training, has adapted his powers and instincts to various uses. It is stated by authorities on agri-. cultural subjects that without the trained collie, sheep raising in large sections of the Highlands of Scotland could not be profitably conducted. In the far north commercial connections and explorations are possible only through the hardihood of the Eskimo Huskie, and field sports without carefully broken dogs would prove tame and uninteresting and degenerate into mere butchery. The education of the dog which is intended as a house pet or companion is fully as important as that of the breeds previously mentioned, for a carefully trained dog is a far more agreeable and useful com- panion than one which is allowed to grow up without proper attention to the development of his mental powers and instincts, and a man who loves dogs and has come into possession of a valuable puppy should 344 TRAINING no more think of neglecting its education than he would that of his children. EFFECTS OF TRAINING Under training a dog’s appearance improves and it acquires a knowing, keen, sagacious appearance that distinguishes it from the heavy, stupid expres- sion and sleepy looks of one whose education has been neglected, and there is no excuse for a man or woman owning a dog which will not come when called, which barks at horses and strangers, climbs over you with muddy paws, kills chickens, tears up carpets and curtains, and conducts itself generally like a spoiled child, when by a little early training it could have been taught to come promptly at com- mand, .walk quietly at heel, lie down at a word, retrieve from land or water, guard any object that may be given it, go on errands, bring your slippers or paper, do little tricks that amuse its master and his friends, and conduct itself decorously and mannerly, so that every one will admire it. TRAINING AGE A dog, like a child, must have a period of infancy, but do not defer its lessons until the period of youth- fulness has passed. There is considerable difference in the time required for development in the various breeds. Small dogs are fully developed in less than one year, medium-sized dogs in from ten to eighteen months, while the St. Bernards and other large 345 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK dogs require about two years to attain their full growth. Females usually develop faster and learn easier than males. The training of a high-spirited dog of one of the medium-sized varieties may be begun when it is four or five months old; that of one of.the toy breeds should be started about a month or so earlier, and of a St. Bernard, Great Dane, or other large breed a couple of months later. : If you have come into posssession of a timid puppy, which is afraid of loud noises or new scenes, do not attempt to train him until he overcomes his nervousness. The best way to do this 1s to take your _ dog around with you to different places where there are loud noises. If the puppy is only a little fellow, pick him up in your arms and hold him, but do not talk to him or tell him too much. Dogs are very observing animals and pay a great deal of attention to your actions, and if you begin to pet a young or timid dog every time he hears a new noise, he will believe from your actions that there is really something to fear; if, however, you pay no attention to the noise, he will be impressed by your lack of concern and soon come to the conclusion that there is nothing to fear. REWARDS AND PUNISHMENTS A young puppy, that is, one under four or five months of age, should never be whipped—a good scolding will answer the purpose better—and in talking to your dog do not confuse him by shouting 346 TRAINING or yelling at him, and, above all, do not give two or three different commands without giving him time to understand or obey any one of them. Always speak in your ordinary tone of voice and go about things coolly and rationally, remembering you have plenty of time and that what the puppy does not learn to- day may be inculcated to-morrow. Always use the same words in ordering a dog to do the same things. __ The importance of doing this cannot be too forcibly impressed upon all those who desire to attain suc- cess in training. The whip should be used sparingly, and never even scold a dog, much less whip him, unless you are absolutely confident that the dog knows what he is being punished for. When you whip a dog, and it is seldom necessary to do so, apply the lash slowly and deliberately, with well-marked intervals be- tween each stroke, and let the last stroke be the lightest, giving the dog plenty of time for reflection before continuing the walk or lesson, or allowing him to do anything else. Do not whip a dog and then get effusive; let him reason it out for himself and conduct yourself quietly, and your pupil will most likely crawl up to you. If then given a kindly word, or a pat on the head, he will go on with the work or lesson with a distinct remembrance of having been detected in the commission of fault and of being punished for committing it, and you will have re- tained his confidence and affection, which are ab- solutely necessary for success. It is all very well to praise a dog after he has 347 THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK obeyed you, or has performed some trick, but never praise him while performing; keep quiet until he has finished and then bestow your favor. TRAINING METHODS All the lessons are rudimentary, short, gentle, and easy, and should be taught in a way that does not altogether check the pupil’s spirit of playfulness, although the trainer must be careful not to indulge too freely in play. The main consideration at first is to give the dog a slight idea of what control really is and to encourage a desire to please you; care, however, must be exercised that the lessons are not continued so long as to tire and disgust the pupil. A puppy’s first lesson must be given when you are alone, as in no other way can you hope to hold his attention; ten minutes at a time is long enough for a lesson, repeated three or four times a day, and if there are any signs of tiring or disgust end the instruction sooner. The trainer will be obliged to exercise considerable judgment in deciding where the attention to the lesson ends and is succeeded by sulkiness. Inasmuch as the lessons should be car- ried on so as to interest the dog and with some re- gard to its pleasure, it is advisable to reward your pupil after each lesson with some tid-bit, such as a small piece of boiled liver. The training of dogs and children is accomplished along the same general lines, as neither must be 348 TRAINING forced or crowded; interest must be stimulated by words of encouragement or rewards, and attention to the task at hand enforced by gentle and carefully gloved firmness. The first lesson should be so ad- ministered as to make it easier to inculcate the second, and a feeling of regard and confidence be- tween teacher and pupil should be cultivated at all times. In training dogs, the fact should always be borne in mind that a puppy which has lived in the world only five or six months has not had a very lengthy opportunity to gain knowledge of the world’s affairs, and its brain is as yet undeveloped. We do not ex- pect any display of intelligence in a child five or six months old, and it is unreasonable to expect more of a dog of that age than you would of a child several times as old. Simply bear in mind that a puppy is anxious to please you, and as soon as his little, undeveloped, playful brain comprehends what you want he will do it. It may test your own patience and intelligence to make him understand your wishes, but perseverance and kindness will attain the desired result. If your dog is kept in a kennel or on a chain, let him have a good run to loosen up his joints and work off some of his enthusiasm before you startin with his lessons. | THE COMPLETE"DOG BOC HOUSE BREAKING This is the first lesson that should be taught a dog. Dogs are naturally clean animals, but puppies, like children, are thoughtless. It is an absolute necessity that dogs which are to be kept in the house should be clean in their habits, and any mistakes they may make after they are eight or ten weeks old should receive prompt attention and correction. Of course, a two-months-old puppy is too young to be whipped; if it makes a mistake call its attention to what it has done and then immediately put it out of the house, and in a few days it will probably under- stand why it was put out. If this does not produce the desired effect, wait until you catch it in the act and rub its nose in the mess it has made, and after scolding it put it out of the house. A young puppy must never be punished unless caught in the act, 1 the proper effect is desired. An old, hardened of- fender may be switched, but the whip as a rule should be used sparingly, as there is always danger of con- fusing and cowing a dog. In teaching dogs cleanliness, give them opportunt- ties for emptying themselves. If not so provided with an opportunity, nature’s necessities will compel them to relieve themselves where they are kept, and it would be unreasonable to punish a dog for what it could not help. All dogs should be taken out-of-doors the last thing at night and the first thing in the morn- ing, and during the day several times, as opportunt- 37 TRAINING ties of this kind are absolutely necessary if they are to be kept in good health. MINDING THE WHISTLE Asa rule it does not take very long to train a dog to come to the whistle. Always use the same whistle, and it is advisable to blow it in a peculiar way, so that the pupil will learn to understand its meaning. You must be careful about punishing a dog for not obeying the whistle. A good way to teach a dog to obey promptly is to take him out for a run just before he has had his dinner, and when he is keen with hunger he will probably range away. When he is some distance away blow a sharp blast of the whistle, and, if necessary, call him in, and when he returns hand him a piece of meat. Repeat this several times during your walk, and after a repetition of this lesson for a few days he will appreciate the meaning of this call and return to you as soon as he hears the whistle. It is possible to elaborate upon this branch of his training and teach him to obey a series of blasts as: Stop, at one blast; drop, at two blasts; or come in, on three. “Home,” or “Go home,” are words that every dog should understand and should be taught to obey. Begin by allowing the puppy to follow you only a short distance, fifty or sixty feet, then turn around and order him back home, if necessary advancing toward him threateningly, and he will most likely scamper back. The distance can be gradually in- ja THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK creased until he will understand and obey the order, no matter how far away you may be from your residence. “Kennel up” is a term that explains itself, and there is no difficulty in teaching a dog to go to his kennel when he hears it a few times and has been chased into his kennel with a light switch. If he sleeps in the house, the word basket or bed can be substituted for kennel. “Quiet.” Dogs are prone to be noisy, and when they bark too often, or keep it up longer than neces- sary at the approach of a stranger or upon hearing a strange noise, they should be cautioned with the word quiet, repeated several times, and, if neces- sary, enforced with a switch. “No” is the most useful word in the vocabulary of either dog or man, and your dog must be taught its meaning if he is to be a useful and pleasant con:- panion. Whenever he does anything that you do not want him to do, say “no.” If he is out with you on the street and attempts to pick up any refuse, call out “no” sternly and order him to you; if he does not come, go to him and scold him and then lead him away. If he does not profit by your scolding, switch him and repeat the switching at every repetition of the act. Some dogs are too friendly with every one they meet, and while you want your dog to be good- natured and pleasant, you do not want him to mix promiscuously, as he will be apt to follow some stranger or be easily stolen. To teach one of these Bele TRAINING promiscuous mixers and chummy dogs to exercise more discretion in the way he makes up with people, have a few strangers chase him away. This will alarm him and he will hustle back to you for protec- tion, and will soon develop more or less suspicion of strangers and give you. more of his affection. This must be done carefully, because if he is chased back too often or is scared too much he will become a timid dog. 353 /imerica’s Greatest Publisher of outdoor books offers you these interesting Books COMPLETE DOG BOOK, By Dr. Wm. A. Bruette Being the history, general characteristics, peculiarities, care, feeding, breaking and breeding of ninety-two varieties of Dogs common to America and Great Britain. By an authority of international rep- We ae 12mo. Elaborately illustrated. Colored cover jacket. et, $3.00. BASS, PIKE, PERCH AND OTHER GAME FISHES OF AMERICA. By James A. Henshall, M.D. Author of “Book of the Black Bass.’’ The most comprehensive book on American game fishes published. Describes in detail ninety species and varieties of game fish. Many illustrations and frontis- piece and cover jacket in color. Large 12mo. Silk Cloth. Net, $3.00. BOOK OF THE BLACK BASS AND MORE ABOUT THE BLACK BASS. By James A. Henshall, M.D. This is a complete treatise on Bass, containing not only advice as to the methods of angling, but also a scientific history of the species. The greatest book of its kind published. 140 illustrations. Hand- some three-colored cover jacket. 12mo. Silk Cloth. Net, $3.00. CASTING TACKLE AND METHODS. By O. W. Smith Fishing Editor of “‘Outdoor Life’’ and author of “Trout Lore.” The author has endeavored to embody not only the accumulated wisdom of forty years of angling, but also to draw upon the ex- perience of well-known angling experts. A valuable book for both the old-timer and the amateur. Elaborately illustrated. Large 12mo. Silk Cloth. Net, $3.00. THE COMPLEAT ANGLER. By Izaak Walton This ‘‘Fisherman’s encyclopedia of Happiness” bids fair to become the standard exquisite edition of Walton’s great Classic. Sixteen full-page illustrations in color by James H. Thorpe. Handsomely bound. Large 4to. Cloth. Net, $3.50. Three-fourths Turkey Mo- rocco. Net, $15.00. Stewart Kidd Cincinnati fimerica’s Greatest Publisher of outdoor books offers you these interesting Books “GOIN’ FISHIN’ By Dixie Carroll Author of “Lake and Stream Game Fishing’’ and “Fishing Tackle and Kits.’’ Introduction by Maj. Gen. Leonard Wood. A new book for the every now-and-then fisherman as well as the expert angler. Many illustrations from photographs. No angler’s library complete without it. Large i2mo. Silk Cloth. Net, $3.00. FISHING TACKLE AND KITS. By Dixie Carroll Author of ‘‘Lake and Stream Game Fishing”’ and ‘‘Goin’ Fishin’.”’ Essentially a practical book. How, when and where to fish and right kind of tackle for all angles of fishing for the fresh water game fishes. Many illustrations from photographs. Colored cover jacket. Large 12mo. Silk Cloth. Net, $3.00. LAKE AND STREAM GAME FISHING. By Dixie Carroll Author of ‘Goin’ Fishin’”’ and “Fishing Tackle and Kits.”