ec ee rte Orta setters Bee pase Ret “a7 - it MY i r te doayhy * r ¢ : ¥ ele cone t Sree Tres Ras : use ee tee See et 2 as sep Eerte =. Pros 2 pe = SAS Ses a Ea ages atten te . : ; ee eeae erat Renn ps eae bats i Be a SETI is patie itive b asters Sete ct ——<—£@i ——_— _—_—__—3 2 \\ WV — i vrenany Se 0 a THE COMPLETE “™* GARDEN BOOKS BY ALBERT 'D:: TAYLOR PartTiaAu List oF PLANTs AVAILABLE FOR VARIOUS UsEs IN GENERAL LANDSCAPE PLANTING STREET TREES: THEIR CARE AND PRESERVATION CompLETE GARDEN, THE Pirate I. The scarlet thorns planted on both sides of the wall on either side of the gate make an excellent frame for this architectural detail at the garden entrance. (See Plate XXIV, page 158) THE COMPLETE GARDEN BY ALBERT D. TAYLOR, M.5S.A. Fellow American Society of Landscape Architects Non-resident Professor Landscape Architecture in Ohio State University ASSISTED BY GORDON D. COOPER, B.S. A. Member American Society of Landscape Architects ILLUSTRATED WITH FIFTY FULL PAGE CUTS, FOUR LINE CHARTS, AND NINE COLOURED PLATES " LIBRARY NEW YORK BOTANICAL GARDEN GARDEN CITY NEW YORK DOUBLEDAY, DORAN & COMPANY, INC. 1931 COPYRIGHT, I92I, BY DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES AT THE COUNTRY LIFE PRESS, GARDEN CITY, N. Y. PREFACE Reasons For Tuts Book. ‘The author has for some time felt that there was needed in the landscape field, especially by the amateur gardener, a book of thistype. He has believed that such a book would be of value to everyone who is interested in the important work of landscape plantings, not only to the amateur but to the expert gar- dener and to the property owner who has made an exhaustive study of plant uses and plant adaptations. One of the reasons for the publication of these planting lists for differ- ent purposes is that it provides a permanent record for future reference. There is no good reason why a landscape architect thoroughly familiar, as a result of years of experience, study, and observation, with the use of plants should devote his time and thought to the compilation of lists of plants for different purposes, such as wild gardens, spring gardens, rock gardens, and bog gardens in connection with some specific problem only to have each list of material cease to exist for the use of others, as soon as the work in question is completed. Plant lists compiled by capable landscape architects are too frequently used only for one problem, thus requiring the next man who starts to work upon a similar problem to begin his study, not where the other man left off, but at the same point where the other man began, duplicating work and wasting much time and energy. It is not meant to imply that all ornamental plants can be confined within definite standardized lists from which those who attempt to select plants for a specific purpose must choose. It is the author’s sincere feeling that lists of plants compiled as the result of the different studies and investigations con- tinually being made, in connection with the landscape problems of many clients, may be accepted as a starting point or a reference beyond which a planter is at full liberty to go when he wishes to use species and varieties which are unusual and rare, or whenever the conditions of his specific problem require it. The responsibility for the original idea conceived as a basis for the development of this book may be traced to the author’s experience in classroom work and in teaching. In this field of work, from a peda- Vv vi PREFACE gogical standpoint, he has felt the need of a systematic classification, based upon the association of ideas which would aid in remembering and grouping plants. Through learning to know plants by their group associations a comprehensive knowledge of them may be gath- ered and retained with little effort. One of the easiest ways of memo- rizing is through the association of ideas. ‘This is the fundamental principle upon which the information in the various groups is based. The same condition has been found in office work. Men with the greatest range of knowledge covering the identification of plants and the botanical classification of plants have found a smaller book of this kind indispensable as a ready reminder of the possibilities of plant uses, when working out planting designs. The first abridged edition of this book was published in 1916, primarily for the use of the author and a few of his friends in pro- fessional work. It was largely local in character. It has met with such a favourable reception, however, and so many requests have been received asking that a book of this kind be continued, and that the field be covered by comprehensive information, that this revised edition is the result. Osject oF Tuts Book. It is hoped that this book will serve as a ready reference to those who have no authoritative source of informa- tion, and whose limited opportunity and limited time for observation have not enabled them to become familiar with a wide range of materials, and to keep familiar with it. This information is not compiled for the purpose of taking the place of the services of a professional landscape architect, where the problem is of sufficient magnitude to justify his employment. This book will assist those who, having no available sources of reliable information at hand, are prone to accept the advice of “landscape quacks”’ and self-styled landscape architects with little training. The question is often asked, “What plants can I use for a specific purpose?”’ This is asked by both professional landscape architects and by owners of properties. This book will place at the disposal of such persons a list of plants from which species and varieties may be selected advisedly. The discussion does not by any means represent a complete study of this subject. It will take years of checking, verification, and criticism, before a compact compilation of this material can be put into PREFACE Vil final shape which will be valuable as a reference in all sections of the country, where plants other than tropical are used for landscape effects. The correct selection of plants for various purposes in landscape work is but a part of the success of landscape plantings. One should know not only the correct use of plants as indicated in these lists, but their landscape value from the standpoint of their adaptation to design and composition, as well as how to plant and to maintain them. For those unfamiliar with plant materials the information in this book should be supplemented with additional information which may be easily procured from descriptions in nursery catalogues, encyclopedias, and garden books. Tue EssEnTIAL CHARACTER OF THE Book. The main idea behind this method of compiling information for the use of those interested in landscape plantings is that of providing a compact reference manual from which fundamental information can be easily obtained. In reality it is more in the form of a “‘landscape dictionary.” The chapters which have been introduced into this volume are a series of summarized fundamental principles with reference to the respective chapter headings, and they are not in the form of many magazine articles, so compiled as to be interesting to many persons who really read the articles, not always because of the facts in them, but because of the camouflaged outlines. Tue System oF NomenciatureE. In the compilation of the plant lists, and generally throughout the text of the book, an earnest effort has been made to conform to the recommendations of the American Joint Committee on Horticultural Nomenclature as adopted and published in the 1917 official code of standardized plant names. The two new rulings of this committee regarding botanical names also have been adopted. These rulings are that all botanical names except the generic name shall begin with a lower case letter and not with a capital letter; and second, that in the case of all specific names hereto- fore ending in a double “‘i” one of these “‘i’s” shall be dropped. Thus Berberis Thunbergti will become Berberis thunbergi. Since this code fails to cover many horticultural varieties of plants it has sometimes seemed wiser to follow the nomenclature of Bailey’s Standard Cyclo- pedia of American Horticulture, especially in the case of garden forms of plants. An effort has been made to find the most generally accepted vill PREFACE common name for each plant; or, where none was available, to invent a common name which would be descriptive of the plant and helpful in fixing its valuable characteristics in mind. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS. For notes on the behaviour of the newer introductions and for valuable assistance in the checking of the plant lists the author is indebted to M. H. Horvath, Landscape Architect, Cleveland, Ohio, and to Henry Kohankie, Nurseryman, Painesville, Ohio, both of whom have done important work in the introduction and testing of many sorts of plants. For many valuable observations on the behaviour, hardiness, and adaptability of ornamental plants in their respective sections of the country the author is indebted to Charles H. Ramsdell, Landscape Architect, and Phelps Wyman, Landscape Architect, of Minneapolis, Minnesota, and to A. M. Hill, Nurseryman, of Dundee, Illinois. In addition the author is indebted: For lists of plants adapted to the South Atlantic States; to Charles F. Gillette, Landscape Architect, Richmond, Virginia, and to Earle Draper, Landscape Architect, Charlotte, North Carolina; and for lists of plants adapted to the Oregon and Washington Coastal Plain to Professor Arthur L. Peck of the Oregon State Agricultural College at Corvallis, Oregon. For lists of plants and much information concerning planting and seeding methods in Florida the author is indebted to E. N. Reasoner, Nurseryman, Oneco, Florida; H. H. Hume, Nurseryman, Glen St. Mary’s, Florida, and C. L. Whipp, Florist, Jacksonville, Florida. For much valuable information about the preparation of lawns and golf course fairways and greens in Florida the author is indebted to O. B. Roche, Superintendent of the Palm Beach Golf Course, Palm Beach, Florida, and to J. R. Van Kleek, Sebring, Florida. For numerous practical suggestions covering landscape uses and notes on the propagation and maintenance of all sorts of ornamental plants the writer thanks George Jacques, Superintendent of “Gwinn,” Bratenahl Village, Ohio; J. R. Brydon, Superintendent of “Glen Allen,” Cleveland, Ohio, and E. O. Orpet, formerly Superintendent at *“Walden,”’ Lake Forest, Illinois. For unselfish devotion to the oftentimes uninteresting work of copy reading, checking, and indexing, without which this work would never have been completed, much credit is due to the following members of the author’s office staff: Gordon D. Cooper, W. Hoxie Hillary, Lucie L. PREFACE 1X French, Eleanor Hills Christie, J. R. Van Kleek, E. H. Trout, Frank B. Meyer, and Anne C. Thompson. For many of the illustrations in this book the author is indebted to the following persons: Mattie Edwards Hewitt for plates Nos. 12, 21, 26, 44, and 48; The D. Hill Nursery Company for plate No. 17; Mary E. Eaton for plates Nos. 31, 34, 35, 36, 38, 39, 46, and 49; Mr. and Mrs. F. F. Prentiss for plates Nos. 11, 20, 47, 52, 53, and 60; Mr. W. G. Mather for plates Nos. 1, 15, 24, 27, and 28; J. Horace McFarland Company for plates Nos. 18, 22, 23, 30, 32, 37; 40, 41, 43, 56, 57, and 58; Woodlawn Cemetery Association for plate No. 42; The Wm. H. Moon Company for plate No. 7; Nathan R. Graves Company for plate No. 33; Mr. and Mrs. W. A. Thomas for plate No. 51; Mr. and Mrs. Charles F. Lang for plates Nos. 45 and 54; Mr. and Mrs. Charles Reed for plate No. 19. Future CoOperRATION INVITED. Corrections and criticisms will be always welcomed by the author, and this volume will be enlarged and corrected as conditions justify. ALBERT D, ‘TAYLOR. Prospect and Forty-sixth Streets, Cleveland, Ohio. August 1, 1920. PREFACE CHAPTER VII. IX. XI. CONTENTS PART I GENERAL PLANTING SUGGESTIONS Introduction é Planting and Seeding i Beedty Pruning . : Planting and Bineslantie : Lawns Bulb Culture Maintenance Winter Protection and ‘Matching: PART II Lists FOR REFERENCE Evergreens . . A—Most feeds : B—Best adapted es use in nidiwest : C—Not adapted for use in mid-west D—Adapted to partial shade in wooded areas E—Low-growing, formal types . Street and Avenue Planting . A—Trees which are entirely Herd inde all eandie tions B—Trees which should Be sdlected ae ae a eheraueh knowledge of the conditions under which ae are to be used. C—Trees which Sear never ie Ey on streets. Plants for Use in Congested City Districts . A—Trees B—Shrubs . 109 II 112 113 113 114 115 116 117 117 118 119 120 xi CONTENTS XII. Plants for Hedges . A—Barriers : a. Holding leaves cee winter . b. Not holding leaves during winter B—Edgings for walks and for garden borders. C—Windbreaks and solid screens D—Privacy E—Hedges for beaks etinaiens é . Late foliage . ty . Close shearing ; Unsheared low ae ! . Fruiting hedges . Shady places. XIII. Plants for Border Planting A—Masses for refined lawn areas a. Low-growing shrubs b. Medium-growing shrubs c Tall-growing shrubs. fC An oD B—RMasses consisting mostly of native collected shrubs a. Low-growing shrubs b. Medium-growing shrubs c. Tall-growing shrubs. XIV. Accent and Specimen Trees and Shrubs A—Trees soe a. Accent and specimen trees. b. Columnar and pyramidal trees B—Shrubs . XV. Plants Valuable for Use in Rock Gardens, in eee Gardens, and in Wall Crevices . A—Evergreens B—Deciduous trees and sera | C—Perennials . XVI. Plants for Heavy, Formal Effects A—Border planting B—Topiary work and close shearine a. Evergreen b. Deciduous C—Growing in tubs . PAGE 121 123 123 124 124 125 125 126 126 126 126 126 126 127 128 128 129 129 130 130 130 131 132 133 133 134 135 136 138 139 139 141 144 145 145 145 146 CHAPTER XVII. XVIII. XIX. XX. CONTENTS D—Trees and shrubs for allees . a. Pleached. . b. Not pleached lance alles) 1. Deciduous ‘ 2. Evergreen . Plants for Natural, Informal TGeuta’ Low-Growing Plants Along the Inner Side of Curving Roadways and at Entrances ATE ; A—Evergreen . B—Deciduous. . . ; Trees and Shrubs for Different Flowering Effects : A—Producing flowers in tance) spring before leaves appear B—Producing Buweus in sfecaly eine aber leaves appear. C—Producing flowers ditviaigs Eaeip summer D—Producing flowers during late summer and carly autumn E—Producing Giware in ahades uf ed and pink ai Early-flowering sorts : b. Late spring and foie towering sorts . F—Producing yellow flowers a. Early-flowering sorts b. Late spring and Cimahiee domeriie sorts . G—Producing white flowers a. Early-flowering sorts i b. Late spring and ee eened esenine sorts . H—Producing blue flowers . s I—Continuous bloom from twelve sorb : Plants Valuable for the Characteristics of Their Raut! A—Producing fruit of peculiarly interesting form or size B—Producing Bait paliania a its aaa emecta! C—Producing fruit valuable during the winter months D—Producing fruit valuable for attracting birds. a. Fruiting in summer A b. Holding fruit into the winter Eatnelis: c. Birds attracted by fruits E—Producing fruit which attracts pede away on other fruits . F—Producing fruit which ofeen takes the laut andes sirable in landscape planting XIV CONTENTS XXI. Trees and Shrubs Bearing Coloured Twigs . XXII. Plants Valuable Because of the Autumn Colouration of the Leaves A—Early . B—Medium C—Late a. Coloured oligos b. Green foliage XXIII. Fast-Growing Types Valuable for bee eee Effects AR Pees i.) ae eee ie B—Shrubs. .. . XXIV. Plants Adapted to Various Tens of Soil Gunga : A—Boggy and peaty soils a. Boggy situations b. Peaty situations. B—Light, sandy soils. a.: Erees) hv eee ge th eae Wane b. Shrubs c. Vines . C—Heavy types of alls | a. Trees . b. Shrubs c. Vines . D—Trees tolerant SF alkali oils: E—Drought-resisting plants XXV. Plants for Exposed Lake Front and River Oana A—Trees . B—Shrubs ; C—Vines .. ‘ XXVI. Trees and Shrubs for Seaside Pindee ‘ A—Plants hardy under the severe exposure ae the North Atlantic Coast . a. Deciduous trees . b. Conifers . c. Shrubs B—Plants hardy in the lees severe eerie Sone a. Deciduous trees . b. Conifers . c. Shrubs XXVII. Plants for Partially Shaded Locke. PAGE 168 171 173 173 173 174 174 176 177 177 178 179 180 181 181 181 181 182 182 182 182 183 183 183 185 186 187 187 188 189 189 190 190 190 191 191 191 192 CONTENTS CHAPTER XXVIII. Plants for Undergrowth Planting in Wooded Areas A—Shrubs and small trees Sis Hd B—Ground-cover plants. . XXIX. Plants forGround Cover. .., . , MOISE UIOCAMOLE iu Aieay seats) ele fie ce Dr erurOcantens Ch Reo ek ual elie) gon en tig C—Shady locations D—Ferns . a. Dry, shady biaees b. Moist, shady places. E—Embankments and rocky atnipes a. Shrubs b. Perennials c. Vines . : F—Small-flowering gad idee lanes ae crevices he tween stepping-stones and for paved terrace areas G—Perennials adapted to open sunny exposures . H—Ground cover among rhododendrons and azaleas. I—Ground cover among roses . XXX. Game Cover Plants ; A—Foliage, buds, and Biawsemte Merits cover B—Nuts or seeds (Autumn cover) . XXXI. Perennials for Different Purposes A—Hardy perennials for general use B—Perennials according to colour and season. a. Perennials for spring—purple, lavender, or blue flowers : b. Perennials for pnehiet shite Hower: c. Perennials for spring—pink to crimson flowers . d. Perennials for spring—yellow to orange flowers. e. Perennials for summer—purple, lavender, or blue flowers f. Perennials for ai tiiner Sanne mens g. Perennials for summer—pink to crimson Homers h. Perennials for summer—yellow to orange flowers i. Perennials for autumn—purple, lavender, or blue flowers . Perennials for autumn ighiee es k. Perennials for autumn—pink to crimson flowers 1. Perennials for autumn—yellow to orange flowers XV 194 196 197 199 203 204 205 205 206 206 206 206 207 207 208 208 209 210 211 212 212 214 221 222 222 222 223 223 224 224 225 225 226 226 226 227 XVI CHAPTER XXXII. XXXII. CONTENTS C—Perennials for naturalizing in wild garden areas . a. Tall types b. Low types D—Perennials for long flowering sented E—Perennials seldom used in small, refined, rae gardens F— Perennials to wipele ‘ perpetual Bloom”? G— Perennials for use among peonies . : H— Perennials for good blooming combinations . I— Perennials valuable for cut flowers. ; J— Perennials which should be treated as biennials é K— Perennials to be transplanted frequently. a. To be divided every two years b. To be divided every three years . c. To be divided each year L—Perennials for water planting a. Deep water . b. Shallow water c. Land at the euoede ; M—Perennials for planting against the sical border N—Perennials for attracting humming birds . Annuals . A—Annuals Ssoeeae valuaite ee cut Hewers B—Annuals to be sown for ground cover . C—Annuals which are difficult to tn success- fully : D—Annuals which should Be planned i in seveiale sow- ings to insure a succession of bloom E—Annuals to be started indoors in order to predic good bloom before frost . F—Annual vines . a. Delicate foliage . b. Heavy foliage ‘ G—Annuals for carpet bedding H—Annuals for design bedding Horticultural Varieties, Select List of A—Lilacs . B—Peonies ; C—Small flowering trees PAGB 227 227 228 228 229 230 230 231 232 233 233 233 233 234 234 234 234 234 235 236 237 239 240 241 241 242 242 242 242 243 245 247 249 250 250 CONTENTS XVii CHAPTER PAGB D—Roses . . . LU RENTE PDMS Ra nae aa SEL ' 27) eee CnMinie Rises Hire (es a a ee b. Hardiest garden roses . . . Se ale a 1. Hybrid perpetual, crimson and oa sh er ae ee 2eyprdsperpetual, pinks)... s,s) QBE a eaybud perpetual white). 6... aE MeO CUO Mh Maa E ae ess, ot ES Bi Migas:/ ty, Fe Ot. MU a a a RAN A ey besn Wybiid teaMreses iene e yo.) i aE E—Broad-leaved evergreens... 4). sw, 282 a. Rhododendransand azaleas)... 2) |. 252 b. Other broad-leaved evergreens . . . . . 252 | irradi Mee ABS) Meh Bea oR er | a. Mast of lilies) 5/2), 4 BME 3) lls. ln lay eee b. Easy culture in garden cil SAS RADI Riga 1-25 c. Moist and boggy locations. . . . . . . 256 Ba eareareous silyl ymysiieuge fey is Oy: a oR ee Fe TE Te gs ly eo a at EO RERATOM Piya sa) denies oe ele ks BSF Bromma w Gnidrymoile i a age RT OIE oS ES SO NR Ge tr PPendeyiocampne arene ne LVI hl. fol gigs BOX Ve Vines: .) |. 2 ist AN Os RA ge meen RE PY eB engsiiiel: : LPNs erg enue, P52: 6 B—Use on brick, seuiniel said smasonry. 2!) 6000) 3) eee C—Climbing habit and nies rie BREA Pea Ret 3 3° D—Fruiting . . . hae Oa MINTED eR HOY) fi E—Fast-growing . . Bile Abe a RRA tel di een XXXV. Window Boxes and Hanging ee J tO ea a A—Window boxes. . oe asi UPA Oi Rn ae a. South or west exposure. . ... . . . . 264 Paldseexpmsure (00/55! )) 8) LR eae aad Ce OTERLER DOBLE. (6.10! 04 :0'0 DU eum laine "hh aie ie evametne: baskets: 2) '2))///\../ aay ran te) ale Og a. Vine-like habit . . . DAN Ni a die 0 ANS b. Upright habit and good dawars UREA RE OHI Via CS c. Upright habit and good foliage . . . . . 266 NVI. |. Balbs.)! (es. Ose EE a Pet 5 A—Refined ek, ane sean areas. PE Ra Ne 37 (2, B—Naturalizing in woodland and wild Beededs MONS -7.2- C—Narcissi for different locations. . . . . . 271 xViil CHAPTER XXXVII. XXXVITI. XXXTX. XL. XLI. XLII. CONTENTS D—Tulip combinations . . . . a. Single b. Double c. Cottage d. Darwin i E—Best varieties for forse a. Forcing in soil b. Forcing in water Fragrant Plants. : A—Fragrant flowers . a. Shrubs b. Trees . c. Perennials B—Fragrant leaves a. Trees and shrubs b. Perennials Poisonous Plants : A—Internally perataue B—Skin irritants . C—Causing hay fever Ornamental Plants Subject to Disease and Insect Peas ; Plants Difficult to Transplant and Those Adapted for Transplanting at Specific Seasons of the Year A—Plants which should be transplanted in autumn . B—Plants which should be transplanted in spring C—Plants which are transplanted with little success. a. Plants to be rarely if ever transplanted . b. Plants which recover slowly from the operation of transplanting . Shrubs for Forcing in Water in Early sate Pruning Lists : A—Shrubs needs canteen capitee : a. Spring and early summer flowering b. Late summer and fall flowering B—Shrubs needing removal of old wood euly: a. Summer pruning b. Winter pruning . C—Trees which require little or no pruning . D—Evergreens that should be pruned in May onfeine E—Evergreens that may be pruned at any time. PaGs 271 271 272 272 272 273 273 274 275 275 275 276 276 277 277 277 278 279 280 280 282 286 289 289 290 290 290 292 294 296 296 297 297 297 297 298 298 298 CONTENTS CHAPTER XLII. Plants for Florida . A—Windbreaks : B—Trees for street and Serie piuane a. Northern list. b. Southern list. C—Vines a. Lattices and < wire a fanees b. Masonry walls . 4 D—Shrubs with attractive fruit. -E—Hedges. . : a. Middle and seuthetn Bonds ‘ b. Northern Florida , F—Flowering shrubs for middle ae souchen’ F lorida a. White flowers b. Pink flowers . c. Yellow flowers d. Red flowers . : e. Purple and blue Hawers: G—Ground-cover plants H—Shrubs for shady conditions I—Herbaceous plants. J—Plants for seashore etantaa), a. Trees . b. Shrubs c. Vines . XLIV. Plants for Minnesota . A—Hedges a. Barriers 2: : b. Windbreaks . B—Ground cover . a. Shrubs b. Vines C—Plants valuable for autumn cploeaean Ae leaves, a. Early b. Medium . D—Heavy, formal offerte E—Street trees : : a. Entirely hardy ‘mee all eaniinone aN b. Which should be selected with a thorough rane edge of the conditions under which they are to be used xix Pacs 299 300 301 301 301 302 302 303 303 304 395 395 305 305 306 306 307 307 307 308 308 310 310 310 311 312 313 313 313 313 313 314 314 314 314 314 315 315 315 CHAPTER CONTENTS F—Evergreens most used G—Not hardy in Minnesota. XLV. Plants for South Atlantic States . XLVI. A—Ground cover . a. Moist places b. Dry places B—Hedges. a. Holding leaves tirouetioiit winter. b. Not holding leaves throughout winter C—Trees for street planting. D—Evergreens most used E—Formal effects. F—Border planting a. Low-growing deciduous pirube b. Low-growing evergreen shrubs c. Medium-growing deciduous shrubs d. Medium-growing evergreen shrubs G—Fruit valuable for its colour effects. H—Specimen trees and shrubs . a. Trees . b. Shrubs 5 I—Perennials for ea and cut Ages J—Perennials for naturalizing in wild gardens K—Plants which are commonly and freely used in the south but are not hardy farther north . a. Trees . b. Shrubs L—Vines for the sane Plants for Use on the Oregon and Wackineroe Coane Plain 5 A—Hedges. a. Deciduous b. Evergreen i B—Plants for ground cover . a. Open sun. b. Shade. : : C—Plants for border Gianeng ‘ a. Refined lawn masses : b. Native and collected plants D—Street and avenue planting . E—Plants for heavily shaded ERS PAGS 315 316 318 319 319 319 320 320 321 321 322 322 323 323 324 325 326 327 327 327 329 329 330 331 331 332 332 334 335 335 335 335 336 336 336 337 337 337 337 Bibliography Glossary. Index CONTENTS F—Plants valuable for autumn colouration of leaves G—Vines ieee H—Evergreens most used a. Conifers . b. Broad-leaved Xxi PAGE 338 338 339 339 339 343 355 378 PLATB II. III. iKe VI. VII. VIII. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE The scarlet thorns planted on both sides of the wall on either side of the gate make an excellent frame for this architectural detail at the garden MUBERIRCE (20 Ct ee iad) 1) 5-113 6 a, eae MER eC Nair pated Al, oh ol veel fey) s L TOMMEE DICER This map shows those portions of the United States which because of climatic environment and geographic location possess similar planting seasons. Investigation of zones of similar planting seasons has, to date, not provided complete information to the landscape architect in his lanting work. For supplementary information refer to Plate No. Alc Pace v4 CURtCOIOUE) yb) ee PL AWGN Wer has ts Sateen 6 Achart to aid in determining the most favourable period for transplanting, and for seeding of lawns in various sections of the United States. Note the long winter periods of the Northern Zones and the continuous planting seasons of the Southern Zones. It is of great importance to be able to plan ahead and to order plants for delivery at the proper time for any section of the country. These are average seasons resulting from observations of normal seasons during a period of years. For supple- mentary information refer to Plate No. II on Page 6 . Dy ah | ah etre ae The hedge which may look unkept and ragged if not pruned will in the hands of the skilled gardener assume almost any degree of refined out- line. These photographs show one of our most desirable hedge plants the Japanese privet (Ligustrumibota) . . . . . . « «© + « 20 The correct pruning of trees and shrubs is a great factor in the successful maintenance of landscape plantings. These diagrammatic drawings together with the explanations on the opposite page illustrate correct ARG AMCOLEECE MERNOMS OF PLUNINR 21 ee ee a ol et ee A knowledge of the various operations involved in the work of correctly transplanting plants is essential for their subsequent normal develop- ment. These diagrammatic drawings accompanied by the explanation on the opposite page illustrate various transplanting operations. . . 34 Immediately after transplanting, the trunk of every large tree should be protected with a covering of burlap (Fig. B) which prevents excessive drying out and consequent cracking and loosening of the bark (Fig. This protection is especially necessary during the warmer summer months 4 SEU RED Uae Mig pen ured ari ROP HUA kf lay hw 40 To most of us in the northern states the method of seeding a lawn is familiar, but the method of making lawns in southern states by planting Bermuda grass is little known. In these photographs small clumps of Bermuda grass are being planted in “hills” staggered at intervals ranging from eighteen inches to thirty inches. The thicker the planting the more quickly a mat of turf can be developed . . . . . =... 4! ese Xi. XII. XIII. XIV. XVI. XVII. XVIII. XIX. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS It is important to know the depth, distance apart, and time of the year at which different kinds of bulbs should be planted. Many disappoint- ing flower effects are the result of violating these rules with reference to depth, distance apart, and time of planting . . . .... . Trees are given winter protection both against injury from sun-scald and against injury from severe wind and changing temperature condi- tions. This photograph shows one method of protecting hemlocks APAMISE ENC SUNS FAVS 6.085) 10), Bo) ed ha costes The list of evergreens adapted to soil and to climatic conditions of the middle west, and valuable for low, refined mass plantings is limited. The upper photograph shows an effect produced by the use of dwarf yew, Pfitzer’s and tamarisk-leaved junipers, Mugho pines and Japanese spurge edging. ‘The lower photograph shows the effectiveness of masses of low, refined evergreens against massive architecture . . .... . Under climatic and soil conditions favourable to their growth evergreens will produce a landscape picture incapable of reproduction through the use of deciduous plants. This photograph shows an effective use, under Long Island conditions, of arborvitae, red cedars, junipers, rhododen- dron, and yews as a background for a refined, formal pool. . . . Carefully selected and planted trees for avenue and street planting provide a uniform and a symmetrical effect together with the inviting shade, all of which are so essential to the standards of modern residential NSERACES 27) ol Se Balink RMR TE Some iate los) Gehan ns a The list of trees and shrubs which thrive in the congested city districts where soil conditions are poor and the air is polluted with smoke and dust is limited to a few kinds, of which the tree of heaven, locust, and catalpa are typical RRR Pehle UH Pg iliac Nast ate Mie Vig An interesting use of hedges to frame one side of the refined formal garden. Japanese quince on the left side of the walk. Japanese bar- berry against the right side accented with sheared retinosporas, and buttresses of Japanese quince and Amoor River privet on the extreme left against the vine-covered wall, form the features of this compo- SUEIOIN ee see Telrad, Perl) tae eta, | OP ek ines PRU nes TR Plume-like cypress, naturally a small tree, can be maintained as a com- pact and a very formal low hedge if ones Here of skillful pa and protection in winter . . . . : : on The Canadian hemlock, when grown from:the northern seed and when well established, forms one of the best windbreaks and barriers for the protection of the garden or orchard wherever drifting snow must be over- come and ‘seclusion’ also ‘attaimed)) 2 P2SiP LW tah an ee eee Upon a spacious lawn effective use can occasionally be made of trees and shrubs possessing symmetrical habits of growths and fine flowering and fruiting qualities. The deutzia is a shrub with these capabilities, but it is seldom seen as a specimen plant. Restraint, however, must be observed and a dotted effect avoided The extended lawn area often requires specimen trees to lend scale and colour to the picture, and it also offers opportunity to sae ies the natural beauty of many of our fine specimen trees. . . . . : PAGE 46 62 63 78 79 94 95 IIo 18 fo) Iift PLATE XXII. XXIII. XXIV. XXVI. XXVII. XXVIII. XXIX. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS An effective combination of stone work and of plantings in an informal lawn area. Varieties of stonecrop, moss pinks, and Scotch pinks lend charm to an otherwise uninteresting mass of stone. (See Plate No. LIII, Page 334, for lily planting shown in background of this picture.) An uninteresting rocky slope often can be turned into an attractive landscape feature through the careful selection and planting of plants adapted to light, sandy soils. This slope is covered with a grouping of hardy pinks, evergreen candytuft, saxifrage,-and tufted pansy To develop a successful rock garden, not only must the stones be well placed, but the plants must be selected to produce an effect in keeping with the scale of the garden; otherwise the effect will be that of a roan of stones which overpower the garden picture, as shown above EEA IMR ON ee Nev MO PAR DERM RAD EO tee a's al Os To few of us does the term “wall garden” convey a definite im- pression. Yet how frequently the opportunity comes, even in a small way, to change a wall of rock to a wall of flowers and foliage. In this photograph we see Scotch pinks, creeping phlox, golden tuft, tunica, and other similar plants used to excellent advantage An interior view of a pleached allee eight years after transplanting. Note the spacing of the larger plants of the European cork maple at intervals of three feet, with “fillers” between each two of the larger trees. Compare with Plate No. XX VII on Page 175 for the ex- terior view. Openings have been cut in the top of this allee to pro- duce interesting spots of sunlight on the walk . ; An excellent illustration of pleasing garden formality filled with box- wood hedges, as edgings for carpet plantings of Japanese spurge, and accented with specimens of California privet neatly trimmed in a pyramidal form to represent boxwood Bite Wegs aaa vis The use of bay trees in tubs is required in many of the northern gar- dens to produce accent points often at spots where no permanent plant can be planted in the ground. ‘These trees are stored in cool green- houses during the winter months. EA 2 A pleached allee may form not only a most interesting feature as shown on Plate No. XXIV, Page 158, but this one serves as a solid screen between the lawn area and the service buildings This open allee is framed on either side by a solid row of closely sheared thorn trees. Its formal lines are softened by the row of pink- flowering dogwoods which add a charm of flowers in early spring and of fruit in the late fall. Thorns planted four to five feet apart and dogwoods eight feet apart. Width between rows of thorns twenty- two feet and between rows of dogwoods nine to ten feet. (See ex- planation of measurementsion Page 144). An open allee twelve feet wide and eight hundred feet long, developed by the use of white birch planted three to four feet apart in each row. For a permanent allee of this type the birch is not ideal because of its short-lived characteristics and susceptibility to borer. Thorns or the European beech would be preferable . : A group of Japanese snowball, producing flowers in spring soon after the leaves appear, adds much to the attractiveness of a landscape picture ANP XXV PAGE 126 127 142 143 158 159 174 175 190 191 206 PLATE XXXII. XXXIII. XXXIV. XXXV. XXXVI. XXXVII. XXXVIII. XXXIX. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS It is quite important in the planting of the spring garden that the designer should know those shrubs which produce flowers before the leaves appear, similar to the Carolina azalea (B), and those early-flowering shrubs which produce flowers and leaves at the same time, similar to the bladder-nut (A). (In colour) . . In the permanent planting no flowering tree or shrub deserves more favourable consideration than the fine type of Scheidecker’s semi- double rose-flowering crab illustrated above . As a specimen flowering plant for early spring effect the Japanese weeping rose-flowered cherry is extremely interesting, covered always before the leaves appear with an abundance of rose-pink flowers LONER TG Steet aie It is a source of much satisfaction to the plant designer to know that shrubs which are carefully selected for the colour of their flowers may produce very effective colour combinations. This plate shows the St. John’s wort (A) in combination with the sweet- scented buddleia (B). (In colour). The average person who has not become interested in the colour effects produced by the fruits of our common trees and shrubs can hardly appreciate the intense colour display of the American bitter- sweet (A), the Washington thorn (B), and the white fringe (C). (Tacolours} 0.) 0 RE RO a ER ah a A Sie ee The garden designer must always bear in mind that many of our shrubs which produce very uninteresting flowers are the ones which produce our most attractive fruiting effects. The variation in colours of the fruits ranges from the pure white of the snowberry (A) through the purple and porcelain blue of the beauty fruit (C) to the vivid reds of which the Japanese bush cranberry (B) is typical. (In colour) tite d agian eekdgke tine nitss eck be. ute Asan een Not only because of the interesting colour of its fruit in combination with the fruit of other shrubs, but because of the size and abundance of its fruit, the snowberry is one of our conspicuous and valuable SEUSS Pash ok: Beco kee Re eb) Cuattees rete ape ken Lames During the winter months when there is little else in the shrub border to attract attention, the vivid colours of the twigs of many of our shrubs present interesting spots of colour against the back- ground of evergreens or snow. (A)—red-twigged dogwood; (B)— green-stemmed dogwood; (C)—red birch; (D)—golden-twigged osier; (E)—grey dogwood; (F)—striped maple. (In colour) . What is more beautiful in the landscape than the intensely brilliant colours of the autumn foliage of many of our trees and shrubs? More plants should be used for the value of their autumn foliage effect. (A)—burning bush; (B)—dark green golden bell; (C)— maple-leaved viburnum; (D)—sassafras; (E)—maidenhair tree; (F)—sourwood. (Incolour) . . .. . : In solving the difficult planting problems on exposed lake fronts and river fronts there is no plant in the limited list of adaptable types to excel the beach-pluumyc (59 15) bef a se ae eee Pace 214 222 223 230 230 230 238 246 247 254 PLATS XLI. XLII. XLII. XLIV. XLVI. LII. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XXVil The problem of developing desirable undergrowth plantings in wooded areas requires much study of plants as nature places them. The rhododendron, except in exposed locations, is “happy” in wood- land areas where soil conditions meet the root requirements In open sunny exposures on sandy or light loam soil there is no ground cover which surpasses the Japanese spurge in richness of colour or interesting texture of foliage, especially in combination with plantings of everpreens (i/o ee epee 8 Our garden steps can be made a part of the flower garden, and not the usual cold and uninviting mass of stone or brick, by a well- designed grouping of plants adapted for growth in the earth crevices among the rocks. Note the use of candytuft, ground phlox, moss pinks, varieties of stonecrops, and rock cress . . . ... . The large garden filled with perennials usually consists of larger groups of flowering perennials which produce masses of colour during their period of bloom. Iris, phlox, hollyhocks, gladioli, larkspur, and anemone produce the more important flower effects in this garden SNR TR ee vias |e A cut-flower garden; the central part filled with annuals and the outer border of perennials serving as a frame with shrubs in the extreme background. A garden of this kind can have a succession of bloom throughout the flowering season Many of our common garden perennials possess the possibilities to produce very interesting colour effects through the colour combina- tions of the flowers. (A)—Italian alkanet; (B)—hardy marguerite. (In colour) LE EPS hay Pte Gis OC ee Pati ile A During the early spring no woodland wild garden is complete without its quota of trilliums, grape hyacinth, and hepatica which grow lux- uriantly if happily surrounded by conditions of soil and shade . Among those plants which become easily established in the wild garden there is none the flower effect of which excels the Japanese windflower during the late summer as gst ection te In the selection of perennials for the garden not only should the possibilities of interesting colour combinations in the flower effects be observed, but also the possibilities for interesting texture of foliage. (A)—larkspur; (B)—lemon lily (commonly called day lily). (In CRIED ACCUM at BRE EL Sok 1g Jy\vow!< toigh sn (rod ACD Su MAM EER, Set Vea A few water-lilies may enhance a picture such as the above, but a proper restraint in their use and control is always desirable . The artificial lake or pond may receive a natural effect if the banks near the water’s edge are planted with groups of water-loving plants. In this picture one sees the marsh-mallow, day-lily, iris, plantain- lily, loosestrife, plume grass, and showy sedum successfully used. There are those who much prefer to develop their formal flower garden picture entirely by the use of annuals. This garden which is not for a source of cut flowers is filled with heliotrope, yellow tulip poppy, snapdragon, pentstemon, annual carnation, candytuft, and others not Fecopsizable fram this -pictuce® cu etl sa eel oe? Kiel ee ee PAGB 255 270 271 286 287 204 302 303 310 318 319 334 XXVIII PLATE LIIl. LIV. LV. LVI. LVII. LVIII. LIX. LX. LXI. LXII. LXIII. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS An informal planting of Scotch pines and Mugho pines may be ac- cented by the use of a few specimens of lilies to brighten the landscape picture as well as to serve as a background for the flowering effect of the Inies5.0072))\"; DRGE : The knotweed is not only one of the most rapid-growing vines, but its abundance of delicate white flowers and its long-blooming period make it valuable for many locations on the lattice framework. A— First summer after transplanting; B—Second summer after trans- Pia ete akg hil assy ei Ta One of the best vines for use on masonry walls is the Boston ivy, but no vine should be allowed to overpower fine architectural details. This illustration also shows a perfectly developed European beech hedge (ten years old) planted in a single row with plants eighteen inches apart . Phe a NOR eR Re) coal nie be A pleasing combination of the vigorous climbing wisteria used to- gether with window boxes filled with periwinkle to relieve the heavy and otherwise bare architectural effect Nasturtiums, marigolds, English ivy, periwinkle, and petunias make a window box foliage and flower effect which adds greatly to the attrac- tiveness of any home SEALY LADS HT dishinecoar SaeMe During the months of April and May the flower garden filled with refined types of tulips carefully arranged to produce masses of colour is the equal of the garden at any other month of the growing season. This garden is filled with the tall types of Darwin tulips. With the first touch of spring the crocus begins to bloom upon the lawn. This plant can adapt itself either to the refined lawn area or to the woodland and field areas There is always an opportunity, on every larger estate, for the natural- izing of bulbs. Poet’s narcissus is quite Hanes in a wild garden or field environment myer ao Seber, oe ny ead Throughout the southern states the creeping fig is one of the most desirable vines for growth on masonry walls. It develops interesting foliage of a fine texture and is a vigorous grower and compares favour- ably with the Lowe’s Boston ivy so successfully used in the northern states Sapien ae Used as a tree for screen effects, specimen planting, or hedges, the Australian pine is throughout southern Florida one of the most freely used plants The yellow allamanda desirable because of its heavy foliage, and be- cause of its beautiful yellow flowers, is frequently neglected for use in Florida plantings as a shrub ora Vine) 6t))) 0 w) (s 3 we, eee PAGE 334 334 335 350 350 351 366 367 374 375 | Pi PART I _ GENERAL PLANTING SUGGESTIONS THE COMPLETE GARDEN CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION Tue Metuop oF TREATMENT. The lists of plants do not represent a complete and thoroughly exhaustive study of the subject. The general discussions and groupings will provide persons interested in the use of plant materials with essential facts, in a compact form, con- cerning the appropriate use of the more permanent species of trees, shrubs, vines, perennials, annuals, and bulbs. The study of plants and their specific uses in landscape planting can to some extent be analyzed and tabulated for reference purposes in the same way that plants are grouped for purposes of identification. This study, however, is not based entirely upon scientific facts, and therefore is subject to personal points of view, and many times no hard and fast line can be drawn which will place any one plant in one list in preference to the possibility of placing it in some other list. THe ARRANGEMENT OF THE Materia. At the beginning of each main group, and at the beginning of each sub-heading under the main groups, there is a short discussion of the fundamental principles governing that particular type of classification of plants for landscape uses. ‘This discussion will be of some assistance by way of enabling the reader properly to consult the lists contained under these headings. A number of chapters are included in this discussion, devoted to the following subjects: Pruning, Planting Seasons, Planting and Trans- planting, Maintenance, Winter Protection and Mulching, Lawns, Selection and Planting of Bulbs. The author feels that there should be in a book of this kind a concise statement of the fundamental prin- ciples which govern work in this field of Landscape Plantings. These chapters are in no way a complete discussion of these subjects. They are more in the form of instructions and specifications which will serve 3 SEP 2.0 1991, ' LIBRARY NEW YORK BOTANICAL , GARDEN 4 THE COMPLETE GARDEN as a guide in the right direction. For further and more complete information on these subjects reference should be made to the Bibli- ography (Pages 343 to 351), both of articles and of books, contained in the Appendix tothis volume. The author has compiled a bibliography of articles and books which are of distinct value to the reader. But there are many other articles and books, of great interest and value to readers, some of which probably have escaped the author’s attention and should be included in this list. This list will be revised from time to time. Tue Use or THE InpEx. This book is indexed very completely and in detail and has a reference both to pages and to groups. The reader will note that the book has been paged in the usual manner, and also that on each page the groups have been alphabetically ar- ranged for the purpose of making it more easy to consult information as referred to by the Table of Contents and by the Group Index. Asa matter of fact, this Index is almost equally as valuable as the complete list of plants under each of the various groups. By means of this Index the student who is familiar with some plant and wishes to find a proper use for it can readily ascertain the use or uses to which the plant is adapted. Tue Purpose oF THE ILLUsTRATIONS. A number of photographs and drawings have been introduced throughout this volume. These photographs are illustrative of various group ideas covering uses of plants. Words, however carefully selected, often cannot be a literal interpretation of an idea, whereas a photograph immediately conveys the definite idea which cannot be reproduced in words. These il- lustrations have been selected, so far as possible, to illustrate the main features which justify the making of an individual group for reference purposes. It is hoped that they may for that reason prove to be of great value. Metuop oF Usinc THE Book. Theoretically, a treatise on any sub- ject should be so simplified that to the average reader the method of using it is self-evident. However, a few suggestions covering the methods of consulting the information in this volume may not be amiss. The Table of Contents, which is a complete compilation of all the general information in this volume, is arranged with INTRODUCTION 5 many larger and more important headings to include the many minor headings. It is here that the reader can easily find reference to lists of plants which are valuable for specific uses by exactly the inverse process that he can find from the Index a reference to the different purposes for which an individual plant may be used. To the reader who is seeking to find a list of plants which can be used for a specific purpose, first, the Table of Contents and the List of Illustrations are of direct and primary value. To the reader who is seeking to find for what specific uses any plant may be adapted, secondly, the Index to pages and groups of plants is of greatest importance. To the reader who wishes to go farther into the subject of plant study, as covered by various phases of landscape work, thirdly, the Bibliography is the one reference which will be of value. ‘The complete glossary containing a complete list of definitions covering terms frequently used by landscape architects is of real value in defining such terms. The criticism may be raised by some who consult a volume of this kind that in reality no definite line can be drawn between the uses of some plants for one purpose or for another purpose. This is admittedly a fact. It will be quite evident from a short study of the Index that many plants frequently have a distinct and definite value as adapted to different purposes. RANGE oF MatTeErIAL CoverEeD. While the range of material covered by the lists is sufficient to meet the requirements of the average property holder, the lists may be supplemented by additional and unusual varieties which, if selected, should be given unusual care. The information in this book has been compiled to cover the range of material which is adapted for use generally throughout the following portions of the United States: The North Atlantic States, the Great Lakes Region, the Central States as far west as the Missouri River and as far south as Arkansas. No lists have been compiled for the Great Plains and the Rocky Mountain States, but special lists have been compiled for the Atlantic Coastal Plain from Virginia to Mississippi; also for the Peninsula of Florida and for the region within a radius of one hundred and fifty miles from the Twin Cities. For the Pacific Coast, lists have been prepared for the Oregon-Washington Coastal Plain. It should be borne in mind that plants which develop one type of growth in a northern climate will develop another type of growth, because of the longer growing season, in a southern climate, 6 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Tue RANGE oF PLant ADAPTATION IN GENERAL. After studying a compilation of this kind the great range of plant adaptations becomes evident. There is a large group of materials which are hardy under almost all conditions. There are many other types of material, how- ever, too numerous to mention in detail, which are adapted only to specific sections of the country. Tue ADAPTATION OF EVERGREENS IN ParTicuLar. The question of the adaptation of evergreens is perhaps the one which may cause the most serious discussion. Evergreens are a group of plants which possess widely varying characteristics, especially of hardiness under different climatic conditions. ‘The evergreens which will flourish in the humid and less severe atmosphere of Long Island will not grow through the windy regions of the Middle West, nor in the extreme exposure of the water-front conditions of the North Atlantic and the Great Lakes Region. Neither will evergreens which flourish in the sandy soils of Michigan grow upon the clay soils of the Middle Western States. Therefore, the question of evergreens has been carefully considered, and an attempt has been made to differentiate the groups and the require- ments of each. This subdividing of evergreens for various locations is based entirely upon the normal protection. Many evergreens, as with other plants, will thrive under abnormal conditions if they are nursed and protected during the severe winter months. On the other hand, many evergreens which will withstand the exposures of winter conditions will not continue to thrive when placed in the clayey soils of some of our Middle Western States, where they are subjected to the severe baking and drying out of these soils during the summer months. Metuop or Groupinc Piants. ‘The question of whether plants for landscape use should be grouped according to height or according to other characteristics, such as season of bloom, character of growth, soil adaptations, etc., is one that has been discussed to a considerable extent. The writer feels that in the selection of plants as a part of any landscape design, the question of height is of secondary consideration as compared with the natural characteristics and adaptations of the stock under consideration. The selection of plants for specific pur- poses such as background planting, undergrowth planting, windbreaks, ground cover, etc., implies that, in addition to other important char- acteristics of hardiness, compactness, and qualities of fruiting and “(IJ toadeyp osye ‘Fr a8ud 3aq) TI] 22][d UO vores patoquinu 0} Jojor siaquinNy *y1omM Sunuryd sty ur qoaqyoie adeospur] aya 03 UOT UIIOFUT 93a] WIOS paptaoid jou ‘ajep 0} ‘sey suosvas Suljued avyiuis yo sauoz JO UOIQRSNSIAUT “sUOsvaS suljueyd rvyjiuis ssassod UOI}EIO] [eotydeisoa3 pure yuswiuUOIIAUA SHPRUIT]D JO aSNVIIG YSIYA s9jvIG paiuy) 943 Jo suorjsod asoyi smoys deur sry 7, le ek Welt NOIS3Y Gg3LYOdSyYuNN TV IIdOUL dligils sj1nN9S TIWYULSNy YamMor WYLsSny Ysaddn NOILISNVYL IvayHog INTRODUCTION 7 flowering, such plants fulfill the requirements of height automatically imposed by some few groups. Height of plants means little to the landscape designer as compared with the many other important requirements of foliage effects, character of fruits and flowers, soil adaptations, hardiness and habits of growth and their response to pruning operations. In the selection of garden perennials questions of height are entirely secondary to the ability of the plants to produce flowers and foliage of varying qualities, so essential to the success of the garden picture during different months of the growing season. CHAPTER II PLANTING AND SEEDING SEASONS GENERAL CoNSIDERATIONS. Comparative data based on the best reliable sources of information relative to planting seasons and lawn- seeding seasons are so interesting and so valuable, as a basis of es- tablishing definite relationships among varying sections of the United States, that the writer has been prompted to attempt a diagrammatic and a tabulated analysis of this important question (See Plate III). Considered from the standpoint of a plant the act of transplanting is a violent one and consists of stopping at once a large part of its vital activities, generally causing the loss of a considerable part of its root system. Therefore, transplanting should be accompanied by pre- cautions to prevent too great loss of moisture by transpiration, and by measures to assist the plant in starting growth at the earliest possible date. Seeding differs from transplanting in that a seed is a ripened embryo which is a minute but complete dormant plant. As the process of germination includes the making of a vital connection be- tween the young plant and the soil sufficient to enable the plant to produce green tissue and support itself, seedage must also be sur- rounded by precautions to insure proper conditions for germination. One of the most important factors in transplanting or seeding is the selection of the correct season, because upon the successful start of the operation depends the whole future of the plant. Plants grown in pots, or so root pruned that nearly all their roots may be moved with them, are, of course, in condition to be moved at all sorts of odd seasons, but this latter is the work of experts or trained gardeners and is not to be recommended to amateurs on account of the technical knowledge and skill required both during the planting operation and in the way of proper after-care and maintenance. This discussion is confined to transplanting dormant plants and to seeding of lawns, under the fol- lowing headings: (a) Deciduous Trees, Shrubs, and Vines (b) Evergreen Plants Coniferous and Broad-leaved) 8 PLANTING AND SEEDING SEASONS 9 (c) Herbaceous Perennials (d) Lawn Grasses Greenhouse plants and the propagation of plants by seeding, ex- cept as referring to lawn grasses, are not included because condi- tions vary so widely in the same locality. Decipuous TREES, SHRUBS, AND VINEs. The transplanting of deciduous trees, shrubs, and vines is commonly carried out during their dormant season. It is possible in the spring, however, to carry on planting of deciduous woody plants, at a time when the local plants are too far advanced to be moved, by the simple expedient of bringing plants from a storage cellar or from a more northerly nursery where they are still dormant. Again in the autumn, these same northerly grown plants may be used to start planting work before the local plants are matured and safe to move. Transplanting seasons are not so much governed by north and south latitude as they are by the condition of the plants, as explained in another paragraph under discussion of life-zones. The beginning of the dormant period for woody deciduous plants comes in the autumn when their wood is matured and ripened and the leaves start to fall or to take on their autumn colouration. This occurs early in such plants as lilacs, lindens, flowering currants, and horse- chestnuts, and it will usually be found to occur late in some of the plants which are said to be hard to move in the autumn, such as poplars and silver maples. From the beginning of the dormant period in the fall until the beginning of physiological activity in the spring, de- ciduous plants may be moved at any time that the ground is in proper condition and the temperature favourable. As a matter of practice, in the northern states this work is suspended entirely during a normal winter, for about four months, except where large plants are moved with a frozen ball of earth about their roots, because frozen ground and snow make the operation of transplanting smaller plants entirely impracticable. This period, longest in Maine and in the section surrounding Minneapolis, lessens as one goes farther south, until in Virginia and Georgia a continuous planting season extends without interruption through the dormant period. It was early learned that the whole of North America could be conveniently divided into seven transcontinental belts or life-zones, based upon the length of the growing season, which has been defined 10 THE COMPLETE GARDEN as the period between the date in the spring when the normal mean daily temperature rises to 43 degrees Fahr., or above, and the date in the autumn when it falls to below that figure. (The reader should con- sult Bulletin No. 10 of the U. S. Department of Agriculture, Division of Biological Survey, entitled “‘Life Zones and Crop Zones.” Part III of that Bulletin is especially interesting). These life-zones are, as noted above, adapted to plants requiring growing seasons of similar length and temperature range. ‘Thus, if soil conditions, exposure, and amount of annual rainfall are alike in two distant portions of a zone plants which succeed in one portion may be expected to succeed in the other portion. They may in any event be tried out with considerable confidence when all the conditions are known to be the same, as described above. It now seems evident, from recently gathered data, that these zones correspond very closely to belts of country which have similar planting seasons for dormant woody plants, at least throughout the humid regions east of the rooth parallel of latitude. By consulting the accompanying Plate II, which has been adapted from the one in the above-mentioned Bulletin, and also the chart (Plate III), which shows the reported length of planting seasons, it will be seen that the stations reporting fall into groups which lie in respective life-zones as shown on the map. Thus stations 2, 3, 4, and 6, all of which lie in the so-called Transi- tion Zone, including most of New England, New York State, Penn- sylvania, northeastern Ohio, the Alleghanies from Pennsylvania to Georgia, southeastern Ontario, Michigan, Wisconsin, southern Minne- sota, North Dakota, and northern South Dakota, all report a short fall and spring planting season, divided by a long winter season, during which ordinary planting work is impracticable. Stations 7, 8, and 10 lie in the northern limits of the upper Austral Zone where they are influenced by the Great Lakes. Stations 13, 14,15, and 18 lie outside of the Great Lakes influence in the same zone, which includes a great territory stretching from the Coastal Plain westward to the Great Plains, and from the Transition Zone on the north to central Georgia and northern Texas on the south, except for an arm of the Lower Austral which extends northward along the Mississippi River to Cairo, Ill. The first three stations, 7,8, and 10, show the influence of the Great Lakes in that their spring planting season is delayed, while stations 13, 14, and 15 show a markedly later date for stopping trans- PLANTING AND SEEDING SEASONS LE, planting in winter and an earlier closing date in the spring, due to the greater length of the growing season in this zone. Station 18 has such short winter interruptions that it practically offers a continuous work- ing period from fall to spring. Stations 17 and 20 lie in the Lower Austral Zone, which includes the Atlantic Coastal Plain from the Piedmont Region to the ocean and all the southern states south of the Upper Austral Zone. The Sacramento-Fresno Valley in California also is included in this zone. ‘These stations, together with station 19, which is probably influenced by the Japanese Current, and station 21, which lies in the Gulf strip of the Lower Austral, all report a continuous planting season of about the same length, which is uninterrupted by any cold weather. Station 16 reports a long fall season with a short interruption and a short spring season, while station 22, which lies just north of the Tropical Zone, reports a short, uninterrupted season which closes early. In the extreme northernmost area, except that of Camden, Maine, the fall planting season does not open early enough, nor does the spring season extend long enough to offset the long winter period of frozen ground, which may extend to five months in the Northern Zone. Thus the total number of working planting days in the Northern Zone may be only 70 or 80 in an average year of not unusual severity of winter, while in the great central portion of the country each of the two seasons may be as much as 50 days long, giving a combined plant- ing season of about 100 working days. In the Southern Zone, where there is no interruption during the winter, the season may be from 115 to 150 or even 160 days long, except that the beginning of growth in the spring curtails the season at that end when the Tropical Zone is ap- proached. It should be noted that the farther south one goes the more abruptly the spring growing season opens and the harder it becomes to prolong the planting season by any of the expedients mentioned above. The growing seasons of the southern sections of the United States open rapidly and there is greater danger in the operation of transplanting after leaf growth has started than in the cooler northerly sections of the country. It is also inadvisable to import cold storage plants into such southerly sections much after the time when local stock is in full leaf. It is probable that as time goes on much more detailed and complete data will be published regarding safe planting seasons for the different life-zones of the country, thus enabling planters to eliminate nearly all 12 THE COMPLETE GARDEN of the guesswork which now exists, when one is called upon to execute work in an unfamiliar territory. EVERGREEN Piants (CoNIFEROUS AND BROAD-LEAVED). The planting seasons for evergreens follow somewhat closely those for deciduous plants. It is probable that as our knowledge of broad- leaved evergreens increases, their planting season can be shown to do this also. There are now about fifty known species of broad-leaved evergreens which are hardy in our northern climate if handled properly. It is important to know what are the requirements surrounding suc- cessful transplanting of evergreens. Probably the most important seasonal requirement for transplanting of evergreens is that the soil moisture shall be plentiful just prior to the time of transplanting in the location from which they are taken. In other words, in spite of all the old notions to the contrary, fall planting of evergreens should not start till the fall rains have adequately moistened the soil. Fall planting of evergreens can be successfully done as late as any other planting, provided the ground is moist when it freezes. It is better to wait for the fall rains than to plant too early and subject the plants to a hot, dry spell immediately afterward. In the spring, while it is possible to delay the planting of evergreens past the safe date for deciduous stock, due to the fact that they are practically always moved with a ball of earth, yet the best season is the earliest possible one. In both spring and fall planting, early planting has the advan- tage of allowing the plant to start root growth before the advent of the very hot weather of summer and the drying winds of winter, which sap the moisture content of the plant from the pores of the persistent leaves. Such sorts as biota, thuja, and taxus, which seem to establish themselves readily, can probably be successfully planted later in the season than others like picea, abies, tsuga, pinus—except nigra (austriaca), montana (Mughus), and Strobus—and chamecyparis. Evergreens of the first type will be subjected to much loss if not transplanted in a fully dor- mant condition immediately prior to the beginning of growth in the spring or if transplanted at a time in the fall when root growth sufficient to fix the plant in its new soil surroundings cannot be developed be- cause of the lateness of the season. PERENNIALS. Planting seasons for herbaceous perennials are divided into spring and autumn inthe North. One of the first factors PLANTING AND SEEDING SEASONS 13 when planting older plants is the blooming period of the species under consideration. As the blooming period is one of great activity above the ground, those plants which bloom late in the season, like Japanese windflowers and chrysanthemums, should be moved in the spring when they can make root growth more quickly and thus recover from the shock. On the other hand, those plants which bloom and mature early are practically dormant in late summer and early autumn. Thus, irises and peonies can be moved safely about September Ist, and will recover quickly and make new roots before cold weather sets in, whereas they are very active in the spring and often do not recover from the shock of being moved at that time unless the work is done very early. These are probably the first sorts fit to move in the autumn season, and other sorts follow along as they mature. The planting season for perennials would open earlier in the spring on a light soil than on a heavy one, both because the ground mellows earlier and because a heavy soil warms up more slowly. ‘The texture of the soil is a factor affecting the planting season of perennials more than it does the other larger-rooted plants, and it is better to delay spring planting until the soil is in good condition to handle and is warm. ‘Thus, the spring perennial season is likely to start later and last longer than that for woody deciduous plants, and also start earlier and stop earlier inthe autumn. Pot-grown plants and seedlings can be transplanted at odd seasons whenever the weather is right, but it is generally best to wait till spring for all young herbaceous plants. Thus they are given the whole growing season in which to get es- tablished. Care should be taken not to bring tender plants out too early, before they have been hardened off, or too late, when the torrid summer days will wilt them down before they take root. Lawns. ‘The spring seeding season for lawn grass starts in the Lower Austral Zone in February, about the middle of the month, and continues to May Ist, but may be shut off by the advent of hot weather as early as March 1st. As one goes farther north, the season does not lengthen very much, but merely opens later, extending from about April 15th to June 1st. Thus, this seeding season, to a great extent, overlaps the planting season and cannot be protracted past the closing date for planting without great risk of the bad effect of hot weather on the young grass. The autumn season starts in the North as early as August Ist, and closes not later than October Ist, but generally by the 14 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 15th or 20th of September, thus not overlapping the autumn planting season to any extent. As one goes southward, the season again merely shifts along, so that, in the Upper Austral Zone, it opens about Sep- tember 15th and closes about November 1st, while in the Lower Austral it is pushed along to October 15th. Here the practice of seeding stops, except for the use of English rye as a green winter carpet, and is superseded by the practice of “sprigging”’ or planting pieces of Bermuda and St. Augustine grass. This grass planting is commonly done in southern Florida in June, while farther north, and especially in Alabama, it is done through the winter months so as to take advantage of the then abundant rains (See Page 59). Grass seed sown too early in the autumn and not artificially watered will generally lie dormant until the fall rains start germination, and, likewise, seed sown too late in the autumn or too early in the spring will lie dormant until the ground warms up sufficiently to start sprouting. The grass seeding season is from the time the ground gets warm enough in the spring until it gets too cold in the autumn to start the germination process, but this season is as a matter of practice divided into two parts by the period in the summer when the ground is too dry to start germination and the weather is so hot as to require constant artificial watering, both to start germination of the seed and to keep the young plants alive. It is also generally considered wiser not to seed so late in the autumn, in the North, that the young grass plants will not be well established before freezing weather. These are the factors which influence the establishment of the lawn seeding season dates diagrammatically shown on the chart (Plate III). Making lawns in the South is a process of seeding when adaptable mixtures of north- ern lawn seed are used, and a process of planting roots when the native Bermuda and St. Augustine grasses are used. Northern grass is seeded in the period from September to January. Italian rye is seeded from October to January, and native grass roots are planted as shown on the chart in stations 21 and 22. to EST SEASON qua eT ; NorRTHERN New “Yorn pt Milian peas = CaMDEN, AND Bevrast Maine es | edo IMT aa We Eh as BuFF. : UFFALO ae PS SES re He — MINNEAPOLIS title ees al tll = HARTFORD, AND [Anan SZ ROT anna | : ans FEVERGREENS | ====== = BosTon, AND ln wld es erat 66 | Central. Mass [7 tawns | Te ATEN ie avi el Guta | 62 | [| lt GTS es Os RR ToRONTO, AND peer digayeee= 2 == UrrerR ONTARIO il dA awe Be EVE JEVERGREENS | popobsae seen oy ponte | 91 | ae = ee =. ew jevercreens | | | | J) 1 [ere _—- Ty Ty name Gms oo | 9 Lone ISLAND ee ered LT | pate EVERGREENS ——— th 97 je cee Fee HEATED reper (UU TR | LAWNa | pa Eee ee | 92 | Sournzas ers [| erie | | eect | 133 | PaNNSYLVANIA | pecrovous’| Y | 105 | a i on = iter a li ANSAS scanped Ere 300 MILE RADIUS Fone] : ee = ESTES 14 New ® yea Coasran Pau [ey | | | be eel Mn es a | — RW Dit ee ae a wei San ems sess me a = = = EVERGREENS | So) Ob) )OQQQEGS=SoScCocCcooc— pe ay {eet anne i ceanewen see ConsTaL PLAIN fis.csy mand any TO eer nl aeeeee GSS SDSS Seats 9 ee Se GA - CAROLINA pace TERE Iban Gane ee Piepmont RaGIon Sees ee Oe SOERGneEnE CS Gs SI Deeacs Rca ss ere os Sea Ga ceeeea oe PaaS 19 PoRTLAND, ORE. Eco A A AN Rees ees resnpananarecsnassll : TTT tT ee sen = = reveRenzxns | SaaS eee Sere eae eres ee SACRAMENTO, Rim Pa EO Pa on aes FRESNO VALLEY |i] ig 2222 DEBE BAe Bay as [| LAwns | = ener mh | | paceetcresetereteetel | yt pi] mersonvane, [isa (i Gk0e Dean ean oo a8 FLoripa GAD Tes Bae i 120 7aaa.-=-==-====—— aoe A — Mrauu amps oxLane [os ne Gwe be Ruscion °rF onal oe cara Gael hae ea Se A His ComPi_eyv By AD Tay Lor, 1900Euciip AVE. aaa 3 ee eet Pirate III. A chart to aid in determining the most favourable period for transplanting, and for seeding of lawns in various sections of the United States. Note the long winter periods of the Northern Zones, and the continuous plant- ing seasons of the Southern Zones. It is of great importance to be able to plan ahead and to order plants for delivery at the proper time for any section of the country. These are average seasons resulting from observations of normal seasons during a period of years. For supplementary information refer to Plate No. II on page No. 6. % A L iw) oa ort ae he 15 PLANTING AND SEEDING SEASONS *SYUOU J9}UIM 9Y}3 SulINp snonurjuod st uoseas Surjuelg, Se ee ee a 99 oz ‘uel I “AON, " * * * *eplopy (uorgay oyxe7) spueyysr S11 $1 judy SI ‘AON iS Seer ee ee PII OT eyetousser Sutidg aag | ie ey@) oSI I jludy ede at See eenene AyOusas -OquaUIeIDeG,, 0g or “uf. 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Pruning, however, is only a phase in the care of plants and must be accompanied by constant good cultivation, feeding, and management of plants. It is only through the process of intelligent pruning that shrubs especially can be maintained in a definite and natural condi- tion of growth and also kept at a correct height to avoid in many instances the out-growing or over-powering of the design for which they were selected to become a part. Many incorrect ideas have be- come prevalent concerning the process of pruning, and the application of these incorrect methods often causes a slowing up or incorrect development not only in the growing habits of the shrubs but in the quality and the quantity of the flowers produced. PRECAUTIONS TO OspsERVE. Pruning should be done only with a definite ideal and after arranging an intelligent program. No set rules can be offered. Climatic conditions may cause rules correct in one locality to prove valueless in another, and plants of the same species often vary in their habit of growth at different ages, and must be pruned accordingly. Pruning should be entrusted only to a careful workman. It is too common practice in pruning to have shrubs and trees with all the tips lightly snipped off with regularity; or to have trees with the main and lateral branches ruthlessly lopped 18 PRUNING 19 off. The natural habit of the plant should be known and this form preserved when removing any wood. ‘This fact should always be kept in mind except in the case of shrubs or trees which are to be trained in artificial shapes. Resutts From Pruninc. Pruning always arrests but does not permanently change the natural habits and growth of a plant. It often causes the plant to assume temporarily another form than it would naturally assume. Pruned plants constantly struggle to return to their natural habit, and when pruning has been undertaken for a specific purpose it should be continued throughout the life of the plant so long as that purpose is desirable. Root pruning tends to reduce wood production and hence to in- crease fruit and flower production. Top pruning favours wood pro- duction and thus more top is produced by the seemingly contrary process of cutting it off. In the case of transplanted stock tops are cut back to compensate for the roots that are lost in moving. Re- moval of excess top growth insures to the remaining parts of the plant more nourishment, with subsequent better development, and it also decreases the area of leaf surface and the consequent evaporation of stored-up moisture before the roots begin functioning in the new loca- tion. Toots AND WounpD Dressincs. Pruning shears, pruning knives, and hand saws are the best tools to use. Pole saws and hooks should be avoided as they leave ragged wounds, and pole pruners should be used only for small twigs. Never use double edge saws as they are more apt, in the hands of a careless workman, to injure the tree. A ladder will be required for the larger trees and a block and ropes for removing limbs that are near wires or that might injure property. For dressing wounds gas tar and liquid asphaltum have proven the most satisfactory. They hinder healing the least of the common dressings and are the most durable, adhesive, and antiseptic. Coal tar and pine tar seem to be injurious and white lead apparently has no injurious or antiseptic effect. Dressings give only physical protection and cannot hasten healing, which takes place through the activity of the plant itself. TrEEs—lop Pruninc. Street trees should be pruned so that 20 THE COMPLETE GARDEN branches will not interfere with pedestrians or vehicles. The roots of street trees are more confined than those of other trees and they re- quire top pruning to balance with the root system. Pruning should aim to preserve the natural habit of the trees; but they should also be kept symmetrical in form. If the tops become too thick and ex- clude too much light they should be thinned out. Main laterals, however, must not be disturbed, but rather the shoots that spring from these main laterals should be removed. Specimen trees on lawns require little pruning except to prevent bad crotches (which if left might cause splitting), to shorten branches which may affect the symmetry of the tree, to remove dead wood, and sometimes to remove (as in the case of maples and pin oaks) some of the finer interior branches in order to give more “‘character’’ to the tree. It is generally best to do the heavy cutting in winter, while the trees are dormant. Pruning in early spring or summer may cause the tree to “bleed,’’ with a consequent check to the root system from the loss of food. This is especially true of maples. One advantage, how- ever, of spring or summer trimming 1s that the tree will recover more quickly and start to heal the wound, which would be impossible during the winter season. If trees are pruned in winter the “shaping up” and removal of small pieces of dead wood should be done after the leaves appear at which time symmetry can be better judged and all dead branches can be more easily discovered. To assure the least possible injury from exposure to climatic conditions winter pruning, if neces- sary, should be delayed until the danger from the more severe winter conditions is past. Broken and diseased limbs must always be removed, and secondary growth and suckers cut, to open the centre of the tree to the sun and air. When limbs are pruned they should be cut back to a bud that will grow outward. When larger branches are entirely removed, the cut should be made at the base of the branch and parallel to the tree trunk. No stump at all should be left, and care should first be taken to under- cut amply on all heavy limbs so that when the cut on the upper side is completed the branch will not split the bark from the trunk. All other cuts, such as removing portions of branches, should be made perpendicular to the axis of the branch which is being shortened. The cut should always be clean, with no ragged edges left (See Plate V). Never cut back the leader on trees that are excurrent, such as oaks, ett ee, ? Gk Pirate IV. The hedge which may look unkept, and ragged if not pruned, will in the hands of the skilled gardener assume almost any degree of refined outline. These photographs show one of our most desirable hedge plants, the Japanese privet (Ligustrwm ibota). (See Chapter III) PRUNING 21 birches, spruces, and sugar maples. If the leader is killed it is often possible to train the best lateral available as a substitute. This may be done by binding the lateral to a pole and tying with raffia. If the tree is weakened or is dying, severe pruning will often aid in offsetting the trouble and may help the tree to recover its vigour. Many trees and shrubs, as poplars, soft maples, the tree of heaven, box elders, hydrangeas, and sumacs will stand very heavy pruning and recover rapidly. Oaks, elms, and flowering dogwoods should be pruned only as corrective measures and not to check growth. During the progress of construction work in the neighbourhood of fine trees or shrubs some protection should be afforded, either by the erection of a stout fence or a stout wooden framework. Roor Pruninc. Root pruning serves to check the growth of a tree and to encourage lateral or secondary growth of the roots. When a plant has a slow or a weak-growing top grafted upon a vigor- ous root stock, root pruning is often used advantageously to stop too great a growth of the stock. Root pruning should be done before the weather becomes too cold in the fall. If this pruning is delayed till very late no start in healing the cuts will be made before spring, and meanwhile decay will set in. The process of root pruning to assist in the successful transplanting of trees is effected by excavating a narrow trench around the tree encircling a ball of earth (Usually six to eight feet in diameter) (See Plate VI-C-1) which can be handled with a tree machine. In this way one-half to two-thirds of the large roots are severed. ‘The trench is filled with loam, and during the remainder of the growing season a mass of new fibrous roots form, which readily come to the aid of the tree when transplanted to its new location (See Planting and Transplanting, Page 42). All trees should be top pruned when transplanted. This is done to offset the loss of root system by removing a portion of the top. A general rule is to remove four-fifths of the current year’s growth and one-eighth of the older branches. Do not cut back main laterals or leaders so as to leave large stubs, for with such pruning the stubs will rot and spoil the tree. Trees with ample fibrous roots, such as maples and elms, are easier to move successfully than trees with few roots, or with tap roots, such as magnolias, tulips, gums, and nut trees. It is therefore necessary to prune the tops more heavily on transplanted stock with sparse root 22 THE COMPLETE GARDEN systems. On all transplanted stock the roots should be pruned to re- move diseased, dead, or bruised portions. In older plants tap roots may be shortened if the cutting is done judiciously. Many trees, especially older trees, are moved more safely in the winter if they are root pruned not later than the last of the previous July. In trans- planting fine old specimens of beech and boxwood it is sometimes necessary, and always advisable, to root prune the trees for two seasons prior to the time of transplanting, in order to insure the greatest possible success. Hepces. Most hedge plants, such as the Japanese barberry and the privet, if allowed to grow as specimen plants unrestrained by severe pruning, will produce a considerable quantity of flowers and also of fruit. This is especially true of the Japanese barberry, which has interesting fruit. If these plants are grown in hedges, which are subject to frequent and severe trimming at least three or four times during the growing season, then all of the flowers are surely removed and if the flowers are not removed, then at the time of the next pruning the fruit is removed, therefore very few of the hedges of this character ever produce any fruit. The only way in which to have a hedge such as a Japanese barberry hedge, with a quantity of fruit upon it, is to prune the hedge during the very late winter months or early spring months and not to prune it again until after the fruiting season is Over. Hedges which are allowed to grow naturally require but little prun- ing, except the removal of dead and diseased wood and the checking of any portion that becomes too rampant or destroys symmetry. It often becomes desirable in the development of hedge plants to keep the growth within certain well-defined limits of height, after the plants have become a few years old. This requires judicious pruning, con- sisting of the removal of many of the older branches each year, but never a heavy shearing which cuts the entire top of the plant, regard- less of the size or age of the branches, to a fixed height. Hedges which are trimmed formally should be kept uniform in height and thickness. One late winter and two or three summer prun- ings during the growing season are better than one heavy pruning yearly. Hedges will do best if kept in a flattened ovoid shape with the widest part at the base (Plate V). In this way all the leaf surface will receive a more nearly equal portion of light, and leaves will grow PRUNING 23 down to the ground. It is preferable to have the top rounded rather than flat. Remember that a portion of the current year’s growth must be left on the plants when pruning. If privet hedges are winter-killed partially or wholly, or girdled by animals, they should be cut back to four or six inches above the ground. A hedge, when newly planted, should be cut back severely, often to within twelve inches of the ground. This is necessary in order to secure thick growth at the base. Topiary Errects. The operation of pruning to produce topiary effects is one that requires much more careful attention and more frequent pruning than almost any other type of pruning work, with the exception of possibly some hedges such as privet hedges, where it is necessary to maintain a constant, even effect. The yew and box- wood which are used for the most permanent effects in topiary work can be pruned to best advantage during the latter part of June and the early part of July, at which time all the new growth should be cut back as far as the older growth, which consists of darker green leaves. This allows opportunity for new shoots to develop within the old growth and thicken the mass. Many plants used for such topiary effects as ovals, spheres, pyramids, cones, spirals, etc., can be given a thorough trimming when the trees are young. The subsequent growth (if the loose-growing tips are kept cut back) will continue to increase the dimensions of these designs in an interesting way. The key to successful topiary effects is the accurate shape to which the tree is trimmed when the first pruning work on the specimen is undertaken. SHruss. Ornamental flowering shrubs may be pruned at any season of the year if no consideration is given to the question of flower production. Wounds made by pruning will heal, however, better during the growing season. Late summer pruning will some- times encourage a new and vigorous growth which does not thoroughly ripen during the late summer and fall months, and is consequently exposed to the danger of winter-killing. Late summer pruning should accordingly not be practised especially on semi-hardy plants. During wet seasons, and when plants are over-supplied with food, summer pruning may be resorted to, in order to restrain succulent and weak growth. Many shrubs possess a greater or less value for their flowering habits. The following are a series of memorandums explanatory of the drawings shown on Plate No. V, illustrating various methods of pruning trees and shrubs. A A large, overgrown, and “leggy” shrub with some new long shoots growing from the base of the plant. In such overgrown plants as these all of the wood which produces flowers is in the top branches at the ends of the old wood and the shrub presents a very bare effect at its base. A-1 The same shrub as shown under “A”, but pruned for the purpose of allowing new shoots to develop from the base of the shrub and to permit a new top at a normal height, thus renovating the entire shrub during a period of two or three years. A-2 The same shrub as in “A”, showing its development after proper pruning. This p proper p g produces new flowering wood and a more natural and even development of the entire shrub, which insures a better bloom and a more satisfactory effect. A-3 The same shrub as under “‘A”’, but incorrectly pruned or “sheared” in accordance with the method of unintelligently removing all wood, new and old, at a uniform height, irrespective of flowering habits or other habits of growth of the shrub. A-4 The same shrub as under oe. en showin the development In 1ts rowth after in- 5 g correct pruning (A-3). Note that most of the new growth has developed on the old wood, producing a broom effect at the top and a “leggy” condition at the base of the shrub. Such plants cannot grow normally or produce normal flower effects. Bie : " This illustration shows the correct method of pruning hybrid tea roses in order to produce large individual blooms. ‘The portion in light lines shows the branches to be removed. This illustration shows the hybrid tea rose pruned to pec an abundance of flowers but not necessarily large individual blooms. The portion in light lines shows the branches to be removed. This illustration shows the correct series of cuts to be made in removing large branches at a point close to the trunk of the trees (1 is the first cut to be made, or the under cut. 2 is the second cut to be made, or the upper cut. 3 is the final cut to be made, or the close cut). Note also the healing over of a correctly made cut. This illustration shows the incorrect method of making a cut in one operation, frequently causing the splitting down of the branch. Note also the attempt to heal an incorrect cut, which was not made sufficiently close to the trunk. The bark on such cuts dies back to the trunk and the new healing bark cannot grow over the wound. D-1 to D-5 . ; . Shows correct and incorrect methods of shearing or pruning hedges. D-1 to D-3 Shows the correct method known as the ovoid cross section (D-1); the truncated cross section (D-2); and the rectangular cross section (D-3). As a result of each of these methods of pruning the hedge produces a solid foliage effect at its base. D-4 and D-5 These illustrate incorrect methods of pruning known as the inverted pyramidal cross section and the inverted cone cross section, both of which methods resulting in a wide top and a narrow base in the cross section of the hedge produce a bare effect at the base and give little foliage. 24 ~ 4) | | : \ ; i ") a" 4 y 5 CAN ae (i 4 EY, An a Ay 4 Wceoy) N | : ! —RTD Y ‘ : . Uy 17 c ¥ RANT a NAHI ee \ : aA ie Rd | ’ 7 AN an AY WHI Ky WHG A Ais Wupea Hi WGK i Ni a / ANI v — Pirate V. The correct pruning of trees and shrubs is a great factor in the successful maintenance of landscape plantings. These diagrammatic drawings, together with the explanations on the opposite page, illustrate correct and in- correct methods of pruning. ‘ WEN TY shell Diet . te a ry pie ean PRUNING 25 There are two types of shrubs (Chapter XLII-A, Page 296), one of which is the spring or early-flowering shrubs, such as Van Houtte’s spirea, weigela, snowball, and most golden-bells, producing flowers on wood formed during the previous year. The other type consists of plants which produce flowers during the late summer and fall on the growth of the current year. This type includes the rose of Sharon, the hydrangea, and the common elder. The general rule for the pruning of flowering trees and shrubs, in order to encourage the development of more flowers, is to prune soon after flowering. Unless one has a defi- nite knowledge of shrubs, this rule should be applied literally. The other rule is that spring-flowering shrubs should be pruned in the early summer immediately after they are through flowering, and the summer- flowering shrubs can be pruned to the best advantage in the late winter and early spring before growth has commenced, to avoid the possibilities of winter-killing. Lilacs also should be pruned during the early part of the summer and shortly after the blooming period is complete and in every instance before the seed pods have formed. Spring-blooming plants should be pruned within a week after the blossoms fall to encourage a summer growth of budded wood which will be well ripened by winter. Summer-blooming plants may be pruned either in the late summer or just before spring growth begins, to force a new spring growth upon which summer flowers appear. Late summer pruning is never advisable. Some shrubs, such as lilacs, flowering dogwoods, and trhododendrons should not be pruned except to remove dead and diseased branches, or branches that interfere with the development of the plants. Deciduous shrubs of which the wood has become in- curably affected with scale may, however, be revivified by being cut down to the ground. In the case of plants that form ornamental fruit the branches should not be cut back far, nor the pruning done after the fruit buds have formed. Any dead or dying wood should be removed as soon as noticed. In the case of summer-blooming shrubs pruning is best done in the early spring after the leaves appear, in order to remove winter-killed tips. Old wood should be cut out to prevent shrubs from getting “leggy, 1. e., having all top with no foliage around the base. In removing old wood, cut to the base of the plant; otherwise sprouts will shoot up from stumps and fail as the latter decay. New growth should always be 26 THE COMPLETE GARDEN encouraged from the roots. Cutting back all branches, or giving shrubs an even shearing should be avoided, as strong shoots will develop and cause a too succulent and unbalanced top growth (See Plate V). With transplanted stock a general rule is to remove about one-fourth of the wood, to offset the loss of roots. Root pruning for shrubs is similar to‘that of trees (See Chapter on “Planting and Transplanting”’). Old shrubs and overgrown material should be thinned out by re- moving some branches to the base of the plant. This will allow sun and air to reach the base of the plant and encourage growth at the bottom. The dogwoods, globe flowers, and similar shrubs lose the bright colour of their wood as they age. The old wood should be removed to encourage new growth. EvERGREENS. Evergreens need but little pruning. The pruning of evergreens is done to secure formal shapes, to thicken growth, or to preserve symmetry. ‘Tips of branches should be sheared in the spring just before they start growing. Begin pruning a year after planting and continue each succeeding year. Evergreens dry out more rapidly than deciduous growth and as they make much growth in the early spring, wounds from spring cutting heal rapidly. April is a good month for this work in the northern states. Pinch- ing back of buds at any time in order to thicken the growth is all the pruning that most evergreens require. Shearing for formal shapes must’be done carefully and a portion of the past season’s growth allowed to remain on the plants. Many evergreens such as the plume- shaped cypress, Lawson’s cypress, and the arborvitz will respond to severe pruning operations. These plants grow vigorously under ideal conditions and during the growing season it is not infrequent that they require pruning two or three times. Rarely are evergreens pruned for the purpose of removing branches which are crowding, and only under very abnormal conditions is it necessary to prune evergreens in order to remove dead or diseased branches. RHOopODENDRONS. The pruning of rhododendrons, as a rule, is unsatisfactory, particularly if the wood is old. If the plant is very thrifty, and in a damp, sheltered position, fair success may be had. Not more than one-half of a plant should be pruned in any one year and the other part in the succeeding year. It should be done early PRUNING 27 in the spring and the bark of the stumps well moistened at least twice daily to assist the development and breaking through of the dormant leaf buds. Cuts should be made just above a whorl of leaves because adventitious buds will appear there more promptly than elsewhere. If the plants are not thrifty it might be advisable to cut half of the stalks to the ground, using care not to decrease, more than is necessary, the beauty of the plants. New shoots will be developed from the ground, and when these reach a satisfactory height, repeat the process with the remaining stalks. The root system will also be benefited by such treatment. Pruning is seldom resorted to with rhododendrons in order to pro- duce increased size and quantity of flowers. As an added precaution for the successful development of rhododendrons all the seed pods should be removed from the finer and less vigorous growing plants immediately after the flowering period is complete and before any of the plant energy has been expended in the development and ripen- ing of the seed pods, thus diverting this energy into the production of new flower buds instead of into the production of useless seed pods. Vines. Vines are pruned only to remove dead wood and strag- gling growth. Prune vines after blooming, except vines with orna- mental fruit; the latter should be cut back severely in the spring, because they fruit on the new wood. Roses. Prune hybrid perpetual and most other hardy roses in April when sap begins to flow and buds start to swell. At this time dead wood may be most easily distinguished and mulch should not be disturbed earlier. Memorial roses and rambler roses should be pruned just after the flowering season to produce wood for the next year’s bloom. Other things being equal, the pruning determines the quantity and size of flowers. Severe pruning will produce the largest and best flowers; less severe pruning is productive of a large crop of average flowers; medium pruning produces a large crop of smaller blooms (Plate V, Page 24). For severe pruning, thin out to the base all but three to five shoots, with two to three buds on each shoot. Less severe pruning requires the same number of shoots to be cut back to from five to ten buds. For medium pruning, leave four to seven shoots and cut each back to 28 THE COMPLETE GARDEN one-half of its height. Always cut the stem one-fourth to one-half inch immediately above a strong bud that points owt from the centre of the plant. When a plant has been pruned the shoots should be left as nearly as possible equi-distant from each other and arranged around the plant, so that it presents a well-balanced appearance on all sides with an uncrowded centre. With some hybrid perpetuals and climbers, if considerable length of stem is cut with the flowers, the plants can be induced to make some autumn bloom. Seeds should never be permitted to ripen on rose bushes, as the effect of this is extremely weakening to the plant. When pruning hybrid perpetual roses remove branches that cross, and all weak wood also. Cut back strong canes to six buds, the top bud pointing outward. For a big outdoor display leave two-thirds of the length of four to seven canes. Sometimes it is feasible to cut away part of the tops in autumn so that the fibrous roots will not be loosened or broken by the force of winter winds swaying the plants. Hybrid teas and teas must be cut to the surface of the soil, if neces- sary, in order to cut to live wood. However, as much or more wood should be left as on hybrid perpetuals, if possible. Weak growers should be cut back farther than strong growers. Rugosas, bourbons, chinas, austrian briers, ramblers, and wich- uraianas need but little pruning. Thin out and cut back only a few inches of the stems. Remove wood to the base of the plant as it be- comes old. Climbing and pillar roses need only one-third to one-fifth of the wood removed. All old wood should be removed about once in three years. In autumn any unusually long canes should be cut back slightly and tied up. When rose blooms are cut from the plant the finest and largest blooms follow if only one bud is left to the branch. CHAPTER IV PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING REASONS FOR TRANSPLANTING. ‘Transplanting, in its general defini- tion, is the operation of taking a plant up from the soil and planting it again in a new location, where it is expected to continue normal growth. The term “plant” is applied to trees, shrubs, vines, peren- nials, and annuals. Correct transplanting implies that a plant in its new position should be left in proper posture, and firmly imbedded in good soil. In addition to placing plants in new and permanent loca- tions to have them more effective, or where they may develop to better advantage, it is often necessary to move plants from masses in order to prevent crowding and to provide more space for the remaining plants to develop. This is true especially with nursery-grown stock, and in plantations also which are made dense at the outset in order to pro- duce an immediate effect. Spacinc OF Pants. One of the important factors in successful plantings is the correct spacing of plants at the time of transplanting. Every plant requires space in which to develop normally. The result of close planting is eventually an overcrowded condition and a lack of healthy, well-developed foliage, flowers, and fruit. “The more vigorous specimens crowd out the weaker ones and unless a “thinning-out” process is adopted, the mass effect becomes quite uneven and ragged. The reason for most overcrowded plantings is the desire on the part of the designer to obtain an immediate effect. Too often our im- patience and unwillingness to wait until plants mature and “fill out,” develops many errors. Three years after transplanting is the normal period required for shrubs, two years for perennials, and eight to ten years for average nursery-grown trees to make the necessary growth to overcome the bare effect of the border or row of trees when planted in small sizes. The question often arises as to whether or not it is better to use average-sized nursery stock (three to four-year-old stock) or to use 29 30 THE COMPLETE GARDEN large overgrown shrubs. Many people feel that an immediate effect is desirable and therefore the larger the shrubs that are used the more quickly the effect will be produced. The author has had considerable experience with both types of plantings. The nursery shrub will re- quire anywhere from two to four years under normal spacing before it will develop sufficiently to produce the desired effect in the mass planting. On the other hand, the large, overgrown shrub which will produce an immediate effect generally requires severe pruning and cutting back in order to produce any growth which will fill the plant at the bottom and the top. This renovating process requires from two to three years. Therefore at the end of this period the general effect of the plantation is about the same whether large, overgrown shrubs are used or whether the smaller nursery specimens are used. The correct method to adopt in general planting work is to allow sufficient space between plants for the normal development of each. Planting too close, although providing a more finished appearance during the first one or two seasons, is far more undesirable than liberal spacing. It is not practicable to lay down a well-defined rule for spacing plants. The planter can best be guided by the knowledge that he is seeking an immediate mass effect of foliage, requiring close spacing, or that he will wait during a proper period before expecting to see the plantation well developed. See list re “Spacing of Plants” which follows. SPACING OF PLANTS THE FOLLOWING IS A TABLE OF DISTANCES AS A GUIDE IN TRANSPLANTING CLOSE NorRMAL PURPOSE _TypicaL PLants ee Diseanae Allees—Trees pen Thorns 2: £t: Pleached European Cork-barked Maple | _1 ft. Annuals Carpet Bedding Alternanthera 3 in. Design Bedding Snapdragons 6 in. Edgings Alyssum 4 in. Broad-leaved Evergreens Great Laurel 3 ft. Hybrid Rhododendrons 2% ft. Mountain Laurel 2 ft. Mountain Fetterbush 13 ft. Japanese Azaleas Ta ft. PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING PurRPOSsE Bulbs and Tubers Bush Fruits Ground Cover Deciduous Vines Evergreens Perennials Hedges Low Sheared Double Row (staggered) Single Row High and Wide Herbaceous Perennials Edgings ow ‘hart preading Tall a Tall Slender Kitchen Garden Roses Garden Garden Garden Garden On embankments On fences TypicaL PLANTS Hyacinths Tulips Narcissi Crocus Squills Chionodoxas Snowdrops Grape Hyacinths Anemones Bulbous Irises Lilies Gladioli Dahlias Currants Gooseberries Red Raspberries Black Raspberries Blackberries Dewberries Hall’s Honeysuckle Japanese Spurge Moss Pink Japanese Privet Beech Carpathian Harebell Gold Tuft Phloxes Peonies Larkspurs Chimney Bellflower Strawberries Asparagus Bush Roses Hybrid Perpetual Hybrid ‘Tea Polyantha Dorothy Perkins Tausendschoen SPACING OF PLANTS—Continued CLOSE PLANTING 4 in. 4 in. 4 in. 2 in. 3 in. 31 NormMAL DIsTANCE 6 in. 6 in. 6 in. 3 in: 4 in. 2 in. 2 in. 3 in. 6 in. 4 in. 18 in. 12 in. 10 to I2 in. 2. fe: 3 to 4 ft. Io to 15ft. 32 THE COMPLETE GARDEN SPACING OF PLANTS—Continued CLosE NorMAL A PuRPOSE TypicaL PLants PLANTING DIsTANCE Shrubs in Masses Large Morrow’s Honeysuckle 3 ft. Low Japanese Barberry 2 ft. Medium Van Houtte’s Bridal Wreath 23 ft Street Trees Large Elms 30 ft. Medium Sugar Maple 26 tt. Small Pin Oak ag ft. Trees Fruit trees Standard Apples 30 ft. Dwarf Apples 8 ft. Standard Pears 16 ft. Dwarf Pears 8 ft. Plums 16 ft. Peaches 16 ft. Apricots 16 ft. Sweet Cherries 16 ft. Sour Cherries 16 ft. Quinces 10 ft Groves Oaks 20 ft. 25 to 35 ft. Lawn specimens Purple Beech 45 ft. 60 ft. Vine (fruit) Grapes 8 ft. 10 ft. Vines Climbers on walls Boston Ivy 8 ft. 12 ft: On embankments Hall’s caerauekle 2k ft. 3% ft. Windbreaks (trees) Hornbeams Geet. 8 ft. Spruces 8 ft. 12 ft. ConDITIONS FOR TRANSPLANTING. It is better to transplant stock on a dull, moist day, rather than on a bright, sunny day, because the planter needs to give less attention to the drying out and consequent injury to fibrous root growth. The most ideal weather for moving plants is a day when a cloudy condition exists and when there is ample moisture in the air. Avoid bright, sunny, dry days on which to do transplanting, unless plenty of water is used, or the plants are thoroughly dormant. Dry winds are equally as injurious as hot sun. The general rule is that no plant should be transplanted except with extreme care, and only when it is entirely dormant. Plants are PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 33 generally considered dormant when the flow of sap has ceased in the top, at which time the season’s growth is completed, and when the wood has had an ample opportunity to ripen and harden. Deciduous plants are dormant when the leaves have fallen or turned brown. Transplanting before the wood is thoroughly ripened is one of the sources of winter-killing. It will be noted under group No. 40-A and 40-B (on Page 289) that there are certain types of stock which should be transplanted in the spring and others which should be transplanted in the fall to secure the best results. The explanation is contained in Chapter XL. Evergreens require different rules for time of moving and must therefore be considered separately (See Page 48). It is practicable to transplant small trees, many evergreens and many shrubs, together with perennials, before they have finished their growing season or after growth in the spring has well begun; but this should rarely if ever be attempted with large trees. In such out-of-season handling of the stock extreme caution should be used to prevent drying out, and the plant should be moved, if possible, with the earth balled about the roots. TRANSPLANTING Nursery Stock. It is essential that the pur- chaser of nursery stock should request that such material be lifted and packed properly. Nursery stock in general must be dug carefully to preserve as much of the root growth as is practicable, and with roots cut as cleanly as possible. The stock should not be allowed to stand openly exposed to the injurious effects of wind and sun after lifting and before packing. For short shipments, of one or two days, stock can be packed equally well in excelsior, sphagnum-moss, or straw, but for longer shipments material should not be packed in excelsior, for it dries out too rapidly. On receipt of nursery stock which has been shipped in boxes or crates the stock (being delivered by truck or by wagon) should be so loaded and so covered with canvas that there is a minimum of exposure to drying-out processes. Stock, when received on the grounds where it is to be planted, should be removed at once from boxes or crates, and if not planted immediately must be “heeled in” (Plate VI) or kept in some other way from drying out. TRANSPLANTING—COLLECTED Stock. Collected stock needs more careful attention than nursery stock. Collected material usually The following is a descriptive memorandum to accompany Plate No. VI. A If plants are not to be planted immediately (within three or four days) after the time of arrival, they should be carefully unpacked and “heeled-in,” until such time as they can be planted to advantage (See Page 36). B-1 and B-2 The average small tree as it is received from the nursery ought to be pruned be- fore the plant is put in its permanent location. This drawing shows a nursery tree (B-1) with two leaders, and the proper pruning of this tree (B-2) by removing one of the leaders and some of the small branches. C-1 and C-2 Large trees and trees which are difficult to transplant should be root pruned not later than July of the summer previous to the season when they are to be trans- planted. Usually the fibrous part of the existing root system (C-1) 1s entirely removed by the transplanting operation unless root pruning is done (C-1) and the trenches filled with well-rotted compost, thus encouraging the fibrous root system (C-2) close to the trunk of the tree and within the diameter of the ball of earth usually moved with the tree. D-1, D-2, D-3, and D-4 Hybrid roses of various types are sometimes grown on their own roots without grafting (D-1). Such roses should be transplanted slightly deeper (D-2) than in their original position (D-1). D-3 shows the same bush mounded with a depth of 6 to 8 inches of soil, for winter protection. In transplanting grafted roses the knot formation, indicated by the arrow, where the graft was made should be set about 1 inch or more below the surface of the soil (D-4). If any suckers develop from below the graft, the soil should be dug away and the suckers cut off close to the stem. E-1, E-2, and E-3 Trees and shrubs growing at a normal depth (E-1) should be transplanted leaving the surface of the ground surrounding the stem at the same point or slightly below that point in the new location, and the basin for watering such plants should be made as shown in E-2. Plants should never be transplanted at an abnormal depth below the surface of the existing ground or permanently left with a mound of earth around the main stem as shown in E-3. Pirate VI. A knowledge of the various operations involved in the work of correctly transplanting plants is essential for their subsequent normal development. These diagrammatic drawings accompanied by the explanation on the opposite page illustrate various transplanting operations. ae Se bts Weeks (un ne ic ipa ie : bith Hs RS oh ie eet * Ms Yi es r PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING ac has a larger spread of roots than plants grown in nursery rows, and as it has never been previously transplanted or root pruned it suffers more severely through loss of root system. Top pruning must there- fore be more severe for collected plants than for nursery material, to offset the greater loss of roots. Collected stock usually requires a longer period in which to become well established in its new location. When the loss in transplanted stock is ten or fifteen per cent., the aver- rage loss in collected stock may be as high as twenty per cent. The usual period required for establishing nursery stock in its new loca- tion istwo years. The usual period for establishing collected stock may range from two to four years. SEASON OF YEAR FOR TRANSPLANTING. Planting seasons in differ- ent localities are influenced by many factors. Soil conditions and climatic conditions are the most important, as seen in Chapter II. Heavy soils are more friable during the fall, while during the spring they remain heavy, cold, and wet until quite late. In such soils if but little planting is to be done it is better to plant during the spring months for the reason that clay soils tend, through frost action during the winter months, to heave out material which is planted in the fall. It is undoubtedly true that fall planting, especially in heavy soils, requires more thorough winter protection than spring planting in the same soil. On the other hand, if a quantity of planting is to be done it is much safer to plant during the fall in a heavy soil, especially as a rainy season is frequently experienced during the early spring months, thus delaying planting work until growth is too far advanced. There is little actual difference between the desirability of spring planting and fall planting. There are arguments on both sides of the question and, with the exception of those plants which are adapted for trans- planting only at a specific season, the writer suggests that planting should be done whenever the soil is ready to receive the plants, whether it be spring or fall. This is especially true in the loamy soils. Trans- planting should not be done too late in the spring, for the reason that growth will be too far advanced for the plants to be moved with safety, and the season will become hot and dry before the plants are well established. It is for this reason that plants taken from a colder climate to a much warmer climate should preferably be transplanted in the fall. 36 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Piantinc Beps. GENERAL PREPARATIONS OF. Soil for planting should be prepared carefully. Beds for shrubbery should be dug at least twelve inches deep and ample width and depth provided for trees, varying according to their size. The soil should be made loose and friable so that it will cover the roots thoroughly. Well-rotted manure should be incorporated in planting beds, but never directly in contact with the roots, especially of evergreens. Heavy soils should be lightened, if possible, by the addition of sandy loam or straw manure and light soils should be improved by the addition of vegetable matter. Oftentimes owners of property are so anxious to do their planting in an economical way that they lose sight of the fact that thorough preparation of all planting areas, although more expensive, is good economy, and the least expensive way in the long run of obtaining good results. Poor preparation of planting beds as well as foundations for lawn areas means an increased expense in the cost of maintenance during the succeeding years after the completion of the original work. Thorough preparation of planting beds can be accomplished only through the use of good friable topsoil and an adequate supply of well- rotted manure. It is an easy matter in all planting work, especially that done in clay soils, to do so-called pocket planting and to feel that the initial expense has been very greatly reduced. In all planting areas bordering refined lawns this method of planting is not desirable. It causes a “soil-bound”’ and a stunted growth of the root system and does not provide the adequate food supply which plants growing freely in a loose and friable soil can obtain. HeEeELINnG-IN StocK To BE TRANSPLANTED. When shipments of stock are received it is frequently impossible to plant the material as rapidly as it is unpacked, and it is often impossible to plant the stock because the beds are not prepared. ‘The placing of stock in temporary nursery rows immediately after it has been unpacked is called “heeling in.” In this manner stock may be preserved in its normal condition until such time as it can be transplanted to its permanent location. There are a few important points in connection with the operation of ‘heeling-in” stock which should be clearly understood. Trees and shrubs, when “heeled-in” over winter, should be leaned to the north so that the low winter sun may not shine directly into the tops nor so readily melt the frozen ground about the stems. Thus they are protected better from freezing and thawing of the ground and from PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 37 premature starting of the buds in the spring. Nursery stock may be placed in temporary nursery rows, either by keeping the plants tied in original bundles as taken from the packing boxes, or by taking the individual plants from each bundle and heeling them in separately. The latter method is the safer and is the one to be adopted if plants are to remain in these temporary nursery rows for a period longer than ten days or two weeks. When stock is “heeled-in” in bundles, a special effort should be made to get the fine topsoil worked into the air spaces among the roots of the plants in each bundle. Permitting the air to reach the roots in the middle of the bundle because this precau- tion is not taken, is one of the most frequent sources of injury. The best method to adopt to be certain that fine soil is worked in among the roots is to thoroughly water the plants when they are “heeled-in” and to make sure that the water leaves no roots suspended in air. When individual plants are placed in temporary nursery rows, where they are to remain for a period longer than three or four weeks, they should be spaced not closer than twelve inches, or even farther apart for the larger shrubs, to eliminate injury from crowding as soon as the new growth begins (See Plate VI). Root PRoTEcTION AND PuppLinc. The important object in trans- planting is to transfer the plant to its new position in such a condition that growth will immediately continue as nearly normal as possible when growing conditions become favourable. Growth is first excited and maintained by very fine, fibrous roots, almost thread-like in character, which attach themselves to the soil. It is this fine root growth which is so sensitive to injury from drying-out processes, and which must be protected against the sun’s rays, and also from the effect of wind. A dry wind will work greater injury to plants which are left uncovered during any unnecessary length of time than will a bright sun on a moist day. It is often necessary to transplant material under exceedingly un- favourable conditions, due to wind, or sun, or when plants have advanced in leaf growth. Under such circumstances it is advisable to “puddle” the roots at the time when the plants are removed from the temporary nursery rows, and before they are planted permanently. “Puddling” consists in dipping the roots of the plants in a basin hollowed out of the soil and filled with a molasses-like mixture of loam and water. This “puddling” process leaves a coating of mud over the fine roots and prevents excessive drying out until the material is planted. 38 THE COMPLETE GARDEN DRAINAGE FOR TRANSPLANTED Stock. The soil in which plants are placed should be considered carefully. Sandy soils which have ample drainage, and clayey soils, which naturally retain water, require dis- tinctly different treatment. It is invariably necessary in clayey soils, especially with larger trees, to provide artificial drainage. In sandy soils, on the other hand, an extra supply of water must be added, especially when stock is transplanted during the latter part of the spring season or in the warmer climates. A plant should not be placed in a “pocket,” excavated in shale or clay, which will afford little or no drainage; and it is of course better not to plant on a small mound which will lose moisture rapidly during the dry season. The common practice of “hilling” earth around the stem of the plant, which sheds water away from the roots, is to be discouraged. A shallow, basin-shaped depression should be left around the stem. This will hold the water until it soaks down to the roots. But suitable allowance must be made for later settling of the loosened earth. | BALLED-AND-BURLAPPED Root Systems. Planting material is often lifted with a ball of earth left intact around the roots. The ball of earth after being lifted is then carefully wrapped with burlap. This process is used with large material, evergreens, and any plants that are difficult to move. The great danger of transplanting such material after it has been wrapped for three or four days lies in the fact that during this period the outer thin layer of earth on the ball becomes hard and dry. The general practice with many planters has been to plant the stock without further care after removing the burlap. In the course of a few months the plant dies. Loss is due to insufficient moisture reaching the outer coating of the ball to loosen it, and thus necessary water cannot reach the roots, which have become sealed inside the hard coating. The best practice with all plants which have been “balled and burlapped” is to immerse the ball in water for a short time in order to thoroughly loosen the dirt in this outer coating before transplanting. It is never advisable simply to slit the burlap with a knife without removing the covering entirely and soaking the ball with water before transplanting. Place the plant in the hole where it is to be planted, then cut the binding and remove the burlap very slowly and carefully, exercising caution to avoid disturbing the ball; then partially fill the hole with water. | PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 39 DepTH FOR TRANSPLANTING. ‘The question is often asked as to how deep stock should be set when it is transplanted. ‘This is a query which must be applied to various types of material according to the special requirements of each. For example, some of the more tender perennials like the shasta daisy, the foxglove, and the cardinal flower should not be set as deep as some of the hardier types like the phlox, the larkspur, and the hardy sunflower. The suggestions here, however, are general. A plant in its new location should stand at about the same level as it stood before. There is more danger of setting a plant too deep in a clayey soil than in that which is sandy, for it is vital that the air should reach the roots. More stock is injured by deep planting than by shallow, and it often will be found well to set the plant with the crown or top of the roots an inch or more nearer the surface than it was before. ‘This is especially true in the case of trees which, as is fre- quently observed, are easily killed by filling in earth around them. In the case of shrubs it is not a serious matter, except with rhododendrons and azaleas. These two plants are strongly characterized by having roots that remain near the surface. Roses of all kinds, however, are better set deep, for they readily throw out new roots above the old. Deep planting thus incidentally helps to conserve the supply of moisture so essential to success with the rose. In the case of budded roses it is necessary to have the union at least two and a half or three inches below the surface of the ground, in order that suckers may not spring up from the stock and choke the engrafted plant. Vines, particularly grape vines, also it is well to plant deep. In fact, grape vines are often led under the ground for a rod or more to spring up at a distant point where it is desired to have them grow. But with perennials in general, extreme care must be exercised. Those like the iris, with leaves that spring from a point near the ground, are made to decay by earth heaped about them. Those with thick, fleshy roots particularly should be planted only according to a careful observance of their habit of growth. The peony does not make good bloom if the eyes are sunk much more than two and a half inches below the surface. In the transplanting of the roots of the larkspur it should be borne in mind that the crown at the base of the plant should be covered with good topsoil to a depth of approximately two or three inches. In all transplanting calculation should be made of the possibility of the earth settling around the plant (See Plate VI). 40 THE COMPLETE GARDEN FERTILIZING TRANSPLANTED Stock. In using fertilizers it is not advisable to apply them in any quantity so that they will come in direct contact with the roots of newly transplanted stock. It is always essential for plants to become established before they can make use of a fertilizer; otherwise injury may result. Until a tree makes a new terminal bud on the second growth its root system has not become established nor has it developed fibrous feeding rootlets sufficient to support the tree. A safe recommendation is that fertilizers should be so distributed in the soil surrounding the roots of transplanted stock that the food can become available as soon as the roots have started growth. In transplanting nursery trees and large trees a slow-acting fertilizer, such as bone meal, can be used in the soil around the roots, because the fertilizer will become available at the time when the tree has developed some of its new root growth. TAMPING AND WATERING. Soil should be made compact in among the roots of newly transplanted stock by watering or tamping. Tamp- ing may be accomplished by pressing down the soil with the heel or a stick. In tamping, care should be exercised not to press too heavily immediately around the stem of the plant, as in so doing injury may be caused by the breaking of roots. Soil that can be readily packed should be used around the roots. This is necessary, as any air spaces remaining will cause drying out of roots and consequent injury to the plants. If water is available, it is advisable to run some slowly into the holes where material is planted, either at the time of planting or immediately after planting. The best plan is to put it in when the hole is partly filled with earth around the roots. This is done further to compact the soil and to provide necessary moisture. Unless soil is particularly moist, newly transplanted stock should be watered shortly after transplanting. It is not advisable, however, to apply very much water in soils or sites extremely retentive of moisture for it is quite as easy to injure plants from over-watering as it is to preserve them by giving them just sufficient water to meet their requirements. TRANSPLANTING SMALL SEEDLINGS. For transplanting small seed- lings of trees and shrubs a well-protected spot should be selected, and the ground should be prepared to a depth of twelve or fifteen inches by deep spading and careful raking. Prepare the area in the same way (FF aged 99g) ‘sy UOW JoWUUNs JaWIeM ay} SuLInp Aressadau AqT[eIDadsa sit uorj3a301d sty [, y “3Iyq) yleq ayi jo SUIUASOO] pue SUTYOLAD juanbasuos pur 3no sulAip IAISSIIX9 squdAaoi1d yotya (g “31 7) dejing jo SUIIJAOD Be YM paqej01d 9q p[noys 9917 adie] AIgAa JO yuNI} ayy ‘Sutjuedsues} Jaye Ajaqe paw] IIA FLV1g a Sa V Slat , CaN AS’ ad NU as Fite: m Prate VIII. To most of us in the Northern States the method of seeding a lawn is familiar, but the method of making lawns in the Southern States by planting Bermuda grass, is little known. In these photographs small clumps of Bermuda grass are being planted in “hills” staggered at intervals ranging from 18 inches to 30 inches. The thicker the planting the more quickly a mat of turf can be developed. (See page 62) PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 41 as for a vegetable garden. ‘The little plants, which should not have been exposed at all to the warm air or drying winds, are then best puddled before they are lined out. But in this actual planting there is danger of permitting the mud in which they were puddled to become hardened about their roots. Further to safeguard them, particu- larly if they are evergreens, it is necessary to shade them until they are well established in the new home. Some evergreens, particu- larly the small shrubby kinds, need such shading even beyond the first year. PRUNING TRANSPLANTED STOCK. Suggestions with reference to pruning are covered more fully in the chapter on “Pruning.” One of the fundamental practices to be followed in connection with the correct transplanting of stock is to prune all branches and roots properly. Any branches that are crowding should be carefully pruned at the time of transplanting, especially if the transplanting is done in the spring; otherwise it is a better practice to leave the stock standing in its new position during the winter and perform the necessary prun- ing of the top in the early spring or later winter months. An exception to this practice is the case of maple trees, which should be pruned before sap starts to flow in the spring. With trees and shrubs hav- ing a heavy top, at least one-third of the top should be removed at the time of transplanting, or before the stock has commenced to make its new growth in the spring. This is done to offset the loss of roots incurred in moving and it is essential except with nursery stock which has been frequently root-pruned at the nursery. All bruised and broken roots should be carefully pruned, with a clean cut, at the time of transplanting. Only in this manner will roots heal and possible decay be avoided. Save as many roots as possible when moving. WINTER Protection OF NEwLy TRANSPLANTED Stock. A neces- sary feature in caring for newly transplanted plants, especially those set in the fall, is to apply a suitable mulch for winter protection. This applies to all kinds of transplanted material. A mulch, in heavier clayey soils, reduces the possible injury caused by changes of tempera- ture and consequent heaving of the plants. A proper mulch of fresh stable litter, applied three to six inches in depth, keeps the soil at an even temperature and prevents extreme freezing conditions from 42 THE COMPLETE GARDEN injuring the roots. A mulch which is largely straw may provide a refuge for rabbits, rats, and mice which frequently girdle plants during the winter months. TRANSPLANTING TREES. Some plants, particularly trees, may be transplanted successfully while young but are more difficult to move as they get older. Examples of this are the hickory and oaks, which, with the exception of the pin oak, form deep tap roots. ‘The tulips and magnolias are hard to move because they have few fibrous roots; while maples and elms, on the contrary, have many fibrous roots and are moved more easily. Junipers transplant more readily when older, for they then have a more extensive lateral root system. SEASON TO TRANSPLANT, AND PREPARATION OF Hotes. Large trees should be transplanted when they are dormant. It may be necessary to move other material before the growing period has stopped, but this should seldom be attempted with older trees. Large trees are moved in winter, and it is preferable to move them when the ground is frozen. The ball of earth on the roots will then remain fairly intact and there will be a minimum of root loss when moving. Holes for the trees should be dug with straight sides and with bottom rather convex or slightly rounded. This is much to be preferred to making holes bowlshaped and it permits an opportunity to spread the roots more naturally than in a hole where the middle is deeper than the sides. A common error in transplanting large trees is that of providing a hole not sufficiently large to receive the roots of the tree without cramp- ing. A hole for a large tree greater than five to six inches in diameter should not be less than eight to ten feet in diameter, and never less than three feet in depth. The most common method of transplanting large trees is the method of cutting the roots down to a ball approximating eight to ten feet in diameter. Trees transplanted in this way are frequently subjected to a root-pruning process during the previous summer, or preferably during the previous year. It has been stated by authorities, who are in a position to know, that the ideal method of transplanting trees is by saving all of the root system, if possible. This process is known as “combing” out the root system. Under this method all of the roots are traced down to their fine ends and then the roots are tied up in burlap in order te pre- vent excessive drying out of the fine fibrous roots. Transplanting PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 43 in this way requires much more care, but it assures less loss than the other method, which is a violent process and requires strong recupera- tive powers in the tree which is transplanted. DrainaGE OF TREE Pits. Ample drainage must be provided for large trees, especially when set in clayey soil. The soil with which trees are transplanted is normally a medium loam, not too compact in character. This soil is much more porous than the heavy clay soil in which the hole for the tree may be excavated. Consequently, the natural tendency during wet seasons is for the water to drain toward the tree pit and to “‘water soak”’ the loose topsoil in which the tree has been set. This really places the tree in a reservoir. A tree will survive such treatment if it can withstand extreme moisture con- ditions, or if the water drains slowly away. However, the tree is generally killed during the first season, or may survive in a much weakened condition. The normal method of draining trees is to pro- vide a four-inch tile connected with some outlet in the form of existing. tile drains, or lower ground, so that the water may be taken away. In the event that there is no opportunity to provide this type of drainage it is desirable to excavate a hole to a greater depth—approxi- mately three to five feet—and thereby provide below the tree a space of at least twelve inches which should be filled with broken stone or other porous material and in which water resulting from normal rain- fall may be collected. In this way the root growth may be kept from drowning. METHOD oF PROCEDURE IN TRANSPLANTING LarcE TREES. It is economical in transplanting large trees to adopt the following method of procedure. In selecting large trees for transplanting great care should be exercised to select only those individual trees which show a vigorous growing condition and which are more or less symmetrical. 1. Select and stake the proposed location where the tree is to be transplanted. 2. Cover this space, over a diameter of at least ten feet, with ten to twelve inches of fresh stable manure. This is more economical than to excavate the hole and fill it with topsoil for the reason that this topsoil is apt to freeze and be useless at time of transplanting. 3. Preserve a single large pile of topsoil (rather than a number of small piles, which freeze in a severe winter) and cover this with twelve or fifteen inches of 44 THE COMPLETE GARDEN stable litter, in order to protect it from freezing and to make it readily avail- able when the trees are transplanted. It is quite essential that this topsoil should be friable at the time of planting. 4. When conditions are favourable for transplanting, remove the stable manure from the place where the tree is to be planted, excavate the hole, dig up the tree, place it in the hole, cover the roots with the topsoil, and then replace the stable manure over this area. This covering will then serve as a mulch and as protection against further freezing, and against evaporation in hot weather. After trees are planted guy wires should be set to prevent wind storms from bending or tipping the trees over. It is never a safe practice to transplant any large tree without supporting it with wires. The reason for attaching guy wires to newly transplanted trees is two- fold. First, to be sure that the tree does not blow over during a severe windstorm, and second, to keep the tree from swaying without blowing over and thereby loosening the root system and letting air get into the soil around the roots. This second reason for guying trees is an im- portant one, and is sufficient in itself to require a very careful tight- ening of the wires which hold the trees in place. In placing guy wires on the trunk it should be protected from injury by the use of pieces of hose, bagging, or canvas. PRoTEcTION AFTER TRANSPLANTING. Large trees when trans- planted must be amply protected against evaporation during the hot summer months. This protection is given to the tree in two ways. First, a mulch consisting of straw, litter, or leaves is applied to a depth of six to eight inches, over an area eight to ten feet in diameter, im- mediately around the base of the tree. Second, the trunk is wrapped with burlap or bagging to prevent excessive drying out. Many newly transplanted trees are injured by the hot rays of the sun through lack of this protection which prevents a drying out of the bark and cambium tissue on the exposed trunk of the tree. This drying out often results in injury to large trees (as shown in Plate VII, Page 75) to such an extent that the bark cracks, dries up, and becomes loosened from the trunk of the tree thus exposing the inner wood immediately ‘under the bark. It is quite as necessary to provide suitable mulch during the winter months of the next season after the transplanting, as to provide one in the summer months. In a newly transplanted tree a fine root growth is developed near to the surface of the ground, and this root growth is easily injured by any excessive freezing and thawing which may occur during a severe winter. PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 45 Pruninc Trees AFTER TRANSPLANTING. After the transplanting, the top and the root growth of a tree must be balanced. It is necessary to remove a portion of the root growth in order to make it practicable to handle the tree, and the removal of roots and lifting of the tree from its existing location shuts off much of the supply of moisture which goes into the tree. In every plant that is moved there is stored within the plant a certain amount of food material which becomes available immediately when growth starts. A portion of the top of the tree should therefore be removed in order to lessen the possible areas of evaporation and areas of leaf growth, which draw heavily upon the store of food in the tree; otherwise this reserve supply is apt to be ex- hausted before root growth is started sufficiently to provide the tree with new moisture. There are instances when it is not necessary to prune because the full benefit of the top is immediately required. The latter, however, will require more care for the tree during the summer months and entails a greater liability to loss because of the unbalanced condition of the top and root growth. A tree that is properly pruned at the time of transplanting will, within three years, equal in development a similar tree that is transplanted, not pruned, and given much necessary additional care. Fertitizinc Newiy TRANSPLANTED TREES. In_ transplanting trees there is great danger that they may be over-fertilized. A tree which has just been transplanted has suffered a severe shock to its root system. It is not in a condition to utilize a great quantity of food. It must be supplied with food slowly and only in such quantities as it can readily take up through its root system. ‘There is great danger of over-stimulating newly transplanted trees at the time when their leaves are not sufficiently developed to digest the food which is supplied, and hence instead of forcing more growth in the tree, a condition is apt to be brought about in the soil surrounding the roots and in the tree itself which retards growth instead of encouraging it. At the time a tree is transplanted a normal amount of well-rotted manure should be worked into the soil but not in direct contact with the roots. Not until the tree shows evident signs of regaining its normal vigour by developing leaves which are full size, and new wood of a normal length, should the tree be heavily fertilized. Such trees may be “tuned up” by feeding them with a mixed fertilizer of potash, dried blood, and bone meal. Such a fertilizer may be fed to trees during the 46 THE COMPLETE GARDEN year previous to the time that they are transplanted, in order to make them more vigorous and better able to withstand the shock of trans- planting, or such a mixed fertilizer may be fed to the tree in small quan- tities, five to ten pounds to an average-sized tree (six to eight inches in diameter) within the first year after the tree has been transplanted. Under no conditions should a newly transplanted tree be left on a neatly mowed lawn area without artificial methods being resorted to for feeding it. The old saying, as quoted from Mr. Hicks, is that “‘Neatness is starvation.” Nature provides a continual gathering of leaves and grass which rots and makes fertilizer for the tree. When the grass is kept closely clipped and the clippings taken away, and when the leaves are raked each fall, then this neatness deprives the tree of all of its possible source of food supply. TRANSPLANTING NURSERY-GROWN TREES. Nursery trees are trees which have been grown under nursery conditions for at least two or three years. The most desirable method of handling such trees is to ball-and-burlap them, to lessen the danger of injury from trans- planting. This applies to small trees with well-developed root systems, and especially to those which have: been so root pruned that the root spread is in a smaller, more compact area than that of the usual nursery tree. Holes for nursery trees should be excavated at least one foot larger than the ball preserved with the tree. In other words, the roots of the tree should never be pruned to fit the hole in which the tree is to be planted and the roots should never be crowded. It is quite essential to place small guy wires, not less than three in number, to each small nursery tree from two to five inches in diameter. This is especially necessary when trees are in exposed locations or stand alone as specimens. When large plantations are set out and the trees will be subjected to broad sweeps of wind, it is more economical not to guy, but rather to watch the plantation, and from time to time straighten up such trees as are pushed out of their normal position by the wind. In an effort to build up plantations of native growth, such as oak, beech, hickory, basswood, and any other forest trees, it is better to plant these trees in concentric circles or a spiral arrangement so that during the first three or four years any one could cultivate among these trees without very much difficulty. If the trees in such plantations are staggered here and there without any relationship to any avenues through which (Z9 e3ed 909) ~“Surjuejd jo ow pue Giede aouvasip ‘yidap 03 aduaIazaI YIIA sa[N1 asay} SuLOIA jo 3[NsaI sy} Ie s}aya JaMmoy Suutoddesip Auepy -payueyd aq pjnoys sqinq jo ‘ . Spuly JUIIIHIP YOY 7e qeoh 24} jo oul} pue iede 90Ue4sIp yadap 94} MoU 0} Juez1oduit a | XI ILVIdg yng fo yido S8W/{ J PasIAOD 3g pjnoys says perce eae 2 9179 fo yidep Saul &¢ 4Yfs0ea hg pasanos 29 Pinoys sayy burjoos- Was - FJLON “A/!7. ~ "yguioodpy "‘SN2049-q *“SASS/2404 ~ Lr -2adoup9-9 ‘omopouoi“4jg- 3 "yeusaohy = 7 Uinbg-4 = "sta snoging-g ‘dyn - -H 'PoupmMousS -F ‘auOWauy -y ~AIM aoe M6 ee | aie " (44 . pt tt TA Ta | eet Ne Tee PO Ree POrO TL = a a ee SS ‘GNNOAD SO FIVAYNS HLATE PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 47 harrow or cultivator can pass, the maintenance work becomes a ques- tion of hand work instead of team work. TRANSPLANTING SHRuBS ErFiciENTLY. In transplanting shrubbery the stock should be left out of the ground as short a time as possible. A crew of two or three men under one competent planting foreman is as many as can be operated to good advantage in planting shrubbery and perennials according to some definite plan, unless the men are thor- oughly familiar with methods of planting, and the required loca- tion for the plants. TRANSPLANTING ViNEs. The transplanting of vines is similar to transplanting shrubs. Vines are very often planted too close to foun- dation walls. Care must be taken not to set plants against a wall, but rather three or four inches away. All foreign material, such as lime, bricks, etc., should be removed from the ground to a depth of at least twelve inches, and the vines placed in excellent, fine soil. Vines should not be planted against walls or buildings where the overhang of the eaves or other features of the building will deprive them of the normal amount of rain; otherwise great care must be exercised in artificial watering. TRANSPLANTING PERENNIALS. ‘The season for transplanting peren- nials is not quite as definite as the season for transplanting trees and shrubs. Under normal conditions of cloudy days and good mulch- ing protection to prevent later evaporation perennials can be trans- planted during their growing period, except when they are nearing their maximum of growth and blooming condition. It is preferable, however, to transplant perennials as soon as their maximum growth is completed for the season, and at the time when the newly transplanted material can obtain a slight root growth in its new location before winter conditions commence. ‘There are some types of perennials, as indicated in group No. XL-A, Page 289, which should be transplanted in the fall, and others which should be transplanted in the spring. For most perennial stock, however, there is no difference between fall planting and spring planting, provided the proper time is selected at either season. The principal objection to transplanting perennials in the fall is that in heavy clay soils and in the colder climates the plants, if not carefully mulched during the winter months, are apt to be heaved from their new locations by freezing and thawing. Per- 48 THE COMPLETE GARDEN ennials should never be transplanted when the ground is frozen, even slightly. Do not move perennials when it is impossible to provide the plants with rich topsoil in which to continue growth. Perennials may be “‘heeled-in” in the same way as other plants, with one differ- ence. Perennials must be removed from the bundles in which they are shipped and each plant “‘heeled-in” separately. Unless this is done the plants are apt to mildew or rot. Perennials “heeled-in” during warm weather should be covered with a light litter of straw for further pro- tection against drying out. When transplanting perennials, es- pecially those which have been growing for two or more years, it is quite necessary to “divide” them. ‘This operation of dividing plants is explained in the chapter on “Maintenance—Perennials” (Page 88). Dividing should be done whenever the plants become too thick. The reason why many perennials purchased from nurseries do not do well during the first year is because the plants which are sold by the nursery are often the result of too frequent subdividing of the parent plants and the young plants are not given sufficient time to establish themselves before being sold to the prospective purchasers. The result is that those who purchase these plants must wait at least during one growing season before the perennials will develop normal flower growth. No one who is developing for the first time a perennial flower garden should expect a normal development of good flowers from perennials supplied by the average nursery. Such persons should be prepared to wait until the second growing season before expecting a normal flower effect. TRANSPLANTING EVERGREENS. Evergreens should not be trans- planted to a “‘cold”’ soil, but rather into a soil that is sufficiently warm to permit root growth to begin immediately and to continue either during the spring and summer or during a period of two or three weeks in the fall before the plants become dormant. ‘The best season for transplanting evergreens, especially in colder climates, is during the spring months, just as new growth is beginning. ‘This is done for the purpose of giving the plants an opportunity to go through one growing season and thereby better to establish themselves to withstand cold weather in their new location. Stable manure which is not thor- oughly rotted should never be placed in contact with or close to the roots of any evergreen plants. Fresh stable manure mixed in any soil where evergreens are to be planted is fatal to the plants. PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 49 When evergreens are shipped from a colder and more backward section to a more advanced growing season in a warmer section of the country it is usually advisable to transplant in the fall. Evergreens in the opposite-leaved group, comprising the arborvitzs, retinosporas, and junipers, should seldom be transplanted in the fall after the plants begin to shed their leaves. This condition may be recognized when a considerable portion of the leaves throughout the plant turn brown. If it is necessary to transplant evergreens during the fall when the growing season is completed and the ground is subject to light freezing and thawing, the best treatment is to immediately place around each newly transplanted plant a light mulch of stable litter three or four inches in depth. ‘This is done in order to maintain the ground at an even temperature and to keep the soil sufficiently warm so that some root growth will start before freezing conditions develop. It is the general practice, in shipping evergreens, to “‘ball-and-burlap” them. In this condition evergreens can be shipped for a considerable distance, and if properly wet before being shipped they will remain normal for a period of two or three weeks. As a rule, evergreens for transplanting are grown in a soil which is composed of some clay rather than in a soil which will not hold together around the roots. RuopopEenprRons. In the northern sections of the United States it is generally assumed that spring planting of rhododendrons is more desirable than fall planting. This is recommended mostly because plants transplanted in the spring have a better opportunity to es- tablish themselves and are less liable to injury during their first winter. If rhododendrons are to be transplanted in the fall, it should be ascertained whether the locality from which the plants are coming has received a normal amount of rainfall prior to the time that the plants are dug. The greatest difficulty in transplanting rhododen- drons is that with insufficient rainfall and a dry season, before the plants are dug, there is insufficient moisture stored in the plants to offset the transpiration caused during the winter months. When material is transplanted in the late fall roots do not seem to make sufficient growth to take up the necessary moisture from the soil, and therefore the plant must carry itself through the winter on the strength of the moisture stored up in the cells. This appears to be the main cause for criticism against the fall planting of rhododendrons. It 50 THE COMPLETE GARDEN should be borne in mind that the roots of rhododendrons and of the kindred plants such as the azaleas, feed near the surface of the ground. For this reason.and also because of the evergreen foliage characteristics some root action should be encouraged, if possible, during the milder winter months, and thus mulching of such plants is vital. Extreme care should be exercised in transplanting these types of plants. Plants should be put in a heavy, well-rotted leaf mold soil at no greater depth than the plant stood before moving from its previous location. It isa common practice in the preparation of lawn areas and planting areas, especially in sections where clay soil predominates, to apply a large amount of lime. Because lime in the soil is an element very injurious to the growth of broad-leaved evergreens, none should ever be put in or close to any beds which are to be planted with rhododendrons. This is also true of building plaster and mortar, which is frequently thrown into the soil adjacent to the foundation of buildings where these plants may later be put. Rhododendrons should never be planted in a location where the soil around the roots will dry out. They should be sheltered from the morning sun and also from extreme exposures of wind. During most of the growing season the falling af the dew as a result of the con- densation of the moisture in the atmosphere causes little globules of water to remain on the surface of the leaves during the night. These particles of moisture are slowly evaporated during the early part of the morning. ‘The rays of the early morning sun coming in direct contact with the leaves of rhododendrons on which these particles of moisture are still present are concentrated and focused by these many little “lenses” and cause a burning of the surface of the leaves which in the case of rhododendrons is extremely injurious tothe plant. This is one of the most important reasons why rhododendrons with their sensi- tive leaf surface should not be exposed to the direct rays of the early morning sun, at least until after the heat of the day has caused an evaporation of the particles of moisture remaining on the leaves from the previous night. The baking out of the soil around the roots is extremely injurious to them. If this soil can be maintained at an even, cool temperature, their normal growth is better assured during the summer. They are not so much injured because of the cold, but because of the intense sun which causes evaporation of moisture from the leaves at a time when the ground is frozen and at a time when the plants are unable to replace this loss of moisture by additional water PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 51 taken through the roots from the soil. This condition is especially true in the clay loam soils of the middle west. They should never be watered with any water which contains lime. This is equally as important as the necessity of not planting rhodo- dendrons in a limestone soil. It matters not how much the soil may be changed in the beds or how much leaf mold may be put in the beds in which to plant rhododendrons if the water with which they are frequently soaked comes from a limestone region. Rhododendrons will grow in any good garden soil, but they much prefer a soil with a good deal of humus in it, and they should be thor- oughly mulched with leaf mold soil which should never be cultivated, but left in its native woodland condition. TRANSPLANTING ANNUALS. It is preferable to transplant annuals in a fine, loose loam, and never to transplant them in a heavier clay soil, which will pack and dry out. Upon the size of the plants will depend the care that it is necessary to give them immediately after trans- planting. The smaller the plants the more care will be required in careful watering and shading during the hot portions of the day. While with proper care annuals may be transplanted at any season during the spring or early summer, yet the late spring (May through June 15th) is preferred. Annuals will develop best outdoors if they are transplanted at least two weeks in advance of the hot summer months. Frequent shifting, in pots or flats, is very beneficial through promoting the growth of fibrous roots which make transplanting more successful. CHAPTER V LAWNS Tue first part of this chapter treats of conditions in the North and the second part of the chapter treats of conditions in the South. LAWNS FOR THE NORTH PREPARATION OF Lawn Areas. ‘The keynote of success in securing a good lawn is thorough preparation of the area before seeding. Fail- ures are almost invariably due to poor preparation rather than to poor seed. Grading should be finished with a view to seeding either in the early fall or spring. Prepare the soil thoroughly, for the permanence of the sod rests entirely on this initial outlay. The soil should be deep and porous to produce deep rooting of the turf, which means success in combating winter-killing and drought. For the ideal lawn the ground must be prepared to a depth of one foot; but eighteen inches is preferable. If the area is large enough it should be plowed; otherwise spading must be resorted to. When the soil is naturally good and there is ample topsoil (six inches to eight inches) deep plowing without subsoil- ‘ing is sufficient. In heavy soils the clay subsoil should be broken up but not brought to the surface. After plowing, if the area is large enough ‘to permit the use of a team, the soil should be worked fine by harrow- ing. Follow this operation by levelling with shovels and hoes, and finally with rakes. The top layer of soil should be made very fine to induce quick germination of seed and permanency of sod. The average lawn to which the author refers is the lawn developed ‘in the immediate vicinity of the residence. If building operations have extended over the greater portion of this lawn area, as is general on the smaller residence lots, then all of the topsoil should have been stripped and placed in one or more large piles prior to the commencement of any building operations. In the preparation of a lawn area under such conditions it is very advisable to delay actual work upon this area until after that portion of the building operations apt to cause further litter to be thrown over the lawn area is completed. While the ideal lawn 52 LAWNS 53 area should have a proper depth of topsoil in which the feeding roots of grass can develop, there are many instances where for purposes of economy or otherwise a sufficient depth of topsoil is not provided. The first step is to determine the depth of topsoil which is to be finally spread over the finished subgrade of the lawn. The less the depth of topsoil the greater will be the cost of future maintenance over a period of years succeeding the first year. The surface of the finished subgrade should be established to conform with the finished grade of the lawn area and at a definite, even depth below this finished grade of this lawn area. No topsoil should be spread over this subgrade until every pre- caution has been taken to be certain that an excessive depth of topsoil will not be necessary where spots of extreme depression can be located in the surface of the subgrade and previously filled. In sections of the country where the subsoil consists of a clay loam and other types of heavy soil the item of providing topsoil for the preparation of the lawn area is one of the most expensive items in the landscape development of the property. Experience has shown that topsoil is one of the items which is often subjected to the greatest amount of waste, and it should be carefully conserved and not used, in any instance, except to the correct depth as required. When the subgrade is completed and previous to the application of any topsoil it is often well, especially on types of clay soil, to apply a coat- ing of lime at the rate of not more than twenty-five pounds to every 1,000 square feet. On the top of this, a layer of well-rotted manure at the rate of one cubic yard for every five hundred square feet should be applied. The lime and manure should then be spaded or harrowed into this finished surface of the subgrade and the final surface smoothed with shovels or rakes before the final layer of topsoil is applied. This thor- ough preparation of the subgrade is much more essential if a shallow depth (two inches to three inches of topsoil) is to be used. It is not so essential if a more generous depth (four inches to six inches of topsoil) is to be used. FERTILIZER For Lawn PREPARATION. In the preparation of a lawn area the problem of correctly fertilizing this area is an important one. On the less fertile and poor types of soil a liberal application of well-rotted manure together with lime should be spread. Manure should be used at the rate of one cubic yard for each five hundred square feet and lime should be used at the rate of between twelve and twenty- 54 THE COMPLETE GARDEN five pounds to each 1,000 square feet. On the heavy types of soil this manure should be of a light texture containing sufficient straw, while on the sandy soil this manure should be of a heavy texture containing a quantity of humus. If the preparation of a lawn area 1s undertaken at least one year previous to the time that the actual seeding of the lawn is to be done then the heavy types of soil can be made more fertile and more porous by the development, during each spring and fall, of a cover crop of clover, cow peas, vetch, or rye. The deep roots of these plants and the frequent cultivation caused by plowing them under will do much to produce a mellow and friable condition of the soil. On the very heavy types of soil the frequent mistake is made of spreading a heavy coating of well-rotted manure over the surface of the proposed lawn area and plowing this under to a depth of ten inches to twelve inches. On the average lawn this is a great mistake, and a consider- able waste of time and money. Such lawns should be plowed thor- oughly, the soil made loose, and the surface pulverized as much as is practical with a disc harrow. A heavy coating of manure at the rate of one cubic yard to one and one-half cubic yards to each five hundred square feet should then be applied and harrowed into the soil. By this method the available food in the fertilizer is within reach of normal root growth of grass while under the other method such portions of the ma- nure as are plowed to a considerable depth (ten inches to twelve inches at least) are beyond the reach of normal root growth of lawn grasses and soon become imbedded in a heavy soil impervious to root growth. On the average lawn a top-dressing of manure at the rate of one- half to three-fourths cubic yards to five hundred square feet, of sheep manure at the rate of five pounds for each one hundred square feet or of bone meal at the rate of five pounds for each two hundred and fifty square feet, should be applied and raked into the surface of the lawn. Manure, whenever used, especially in the preparation of lawns in the spring, should be well rotted in order to avoid so far as possible the presence of persistent weed seeds (such weeds as grow after the lawn is seeded). Bone meal and the types of dried manures commonly pur- chased on the market in bags do not bring into the lawn this objec- tionable feature. On the other hand, such concentrated fertilizers do not provide the humus which may be almost as essential as the food contained in the fertilizers. DrainaGE of Lawn Area. A part of the preparation of all lawns LAWNS 55 which are constructed upon the heavy types of soil should consist of correct drainage in order to secure surface conditions conducive to the growth of good lawn grasses and to provide a firm texture to the lawn. Subsoil plowing is sometimes done with the object of correct- ing soil water conditions. This is not permanent, however, because the soil will pack down again within a few years. Before the topsoil is applied over the subgrade all necessary tile drainage should be installed at a depth averaging from twenty-four inches to thirty inches below the finished grade of the lawn and at intervals approximating from fifteen feet to twenty-five feet between lines of tile. This interval often depends upon the expense which the owner feels justified in making to procure an ideal lawn surface. SEEDING OF Lawns. A general rule is to sow in April and May; or September and October (See Plate III). It is but seldom that sowing in June or July is successful. If sown before the fall rains, grass should become sufficiently developed to withstand the winter weather. It is generally preferable to sow seed in the fall. If the soil is prop- erly prepared in the fall, seed may be sown on a light fall of snow in the spring. The seed will sink in as the snow melts and will germi- nate very quickly. As a general rule a lawn seeded in the fall will develop to better advantage with less maintenance cost than a lawn seeded in the spring, because any weed seed present in the grass seed will germinate and most of the weeds will be destroyed during the winter months; while if the same seed is sown in the spring it is neces- sary to remove these weeds by pulling them before they go to seed. Seed should be sown at the rate of eighty pounds to one hundred pounds to the acre, or one quart to three hundred square feet. Always sow thick. Choose a day when the soil is moist, when there is little or no wind, and when the weather is comparatively cool. Seed is scattered broadcast by hand, and the hand must be kept low. Go over the area in narrow rectangular sections marked out, sowing one-half the seed; then repeat the process, walking at right angles to the previous course followed. After sowing, the ground should be raked lightly and rolled thoroughly. Very young grass must be safeguarded against drought by frequent and deep watering. Wherever lawns are to be developed under large shade trees, such as maples, oaks, beeches, etc., great care should be used and the work of seeding should be completed at the earliest possible date in the fall. 56 THE COMPLETE GARDEN It is not practicable to seed lawns late in the fall where large trees drop leaves which if not removed within one or two days are apt to smother the young grass. This is an important point to keep in mind. _ The best grass generally for the foundation of a lawn, except on acid soil, is Kentucky blue grass. This does not fully mature until the third year. It is better, therefore, to use Kentucky blue grass in a mixture. Other grasses such as redtop and the creeping bents will produce a quicker effect and will keep out the weeds until the blue grass is fully established. Kentucky blue grass during the first year grows thinly, and continues to become thicker with successive mowings. When it is fully established it will crowd out some of the less per- manent grasses in the mixture. The ideal lawn is one composed mostly of blue grass and it is also the most difficult to establish. Many’ people who wish to develop a good lawn in a short space of time resort to the use of a considerable portion of white clover. Clover is of no real value in the making of a fine lawn other than that it helps to produce a quick effect, thereby crowding out many early weeds, and that it produces a soft carpet effect with little difficulty, where the process of establishing a permanent lawn of blue grass might be slow. The immediate development of a carpet of green over the surface of a lawn area is no indication that a permanent lawn has been es- tablished. The construction of a permanent lawn which requires only a normal expense in future maintenance involves not only the question of selection of grass seed of permanent types but also questions of ade- quate drainage, especially on heavy types of soil, and thorough prepara- tion of the subsoil and the topsoil as a foundation of the lawn. Un- fortunately many persons ignorant of the real requirements of a permanent lawn give much credit to those persons who are able, by the use of quick growing and temporary types of grass seed together with clover seed, and quick-acting fertilizers such as sheep manure (which soon releases all of its food value and leaves the lawn in an unfertile condition), to succeed in producing an immediate effect of greensward in a remarkably short time. The permanent and desirable types of grasses will not develop within such a short period, and lawns of this temporary character, while exceedingly satisfactory during the first year, will usually prove unsatisfactory and expensive in their main- tenance cost during the succeeding years. Not only do certain types of grasses die out due to the nature of the grass and the lack of proper food supply but the lawn is seriously injured during the hot summer, LAWNS Ly: because of the shallow depth of topsoil that causes feeding roots to remain near the surface of the ground. The various grass mixtures on the market vary in quality rather than in kind. It is inadvisable to buy poor seed. Many mixtures contain a large percentage of “chaff,” and some mixtures contain more or less weed seed. It is highly desirable that any one responsible for the development of a good lawn should be able to identify the im- portant types of good seed in lawn mixtures. Of the various grass seeds used the fescue and the clovers produce a quick effect during the first year. The most common and satisfactory lawn seed mixture for the northern States is sixteen parts by weight of Kentucky blue grass, four parts of recleaned redtop, and one part of white clover. It should be used at the‘ rate of one pound to each three hundred square feet of lawn or one hundred and twenty pounds per acre. The Kentucky blue grass is adapted to the northeastern states and the northwestern coast. It thrives on limy soil and will occasionally grow on land devoid of lime if the. drainage is extra good. It makes a dense, vivid green turf except during ' midsummer when it is adversely affected by hot weather. It should! not be confused with Canada blue grass which produces a tough but not dense or attractive turf and sometimes succeeds where the soil is too thin for Kentucky blue grass. Redtop succeeds under a very large range of soil conditions, from drought to wet land. It is one of the best grasses for poor soils throughout the whole of the eastern United States and thus succeeds where blue grass fails. It does not make a dense turf unless planted thickly and mowed closely. White clover as a turf plant succeeds on poor soils, forms a dense, close mat, and stands mowing well. If Kentucky blue grass is sown alone one hundred and fifty pounds per acre are required and liming is beneficial. If redtop is seeded alone forty pounds of fancy “recleaned” seed per acre are sufficient and no lime is needed. Clover is never sown in a clean stand but may be sown with or after grass seed at the rate of ten pounds of seed per acre. For a fine turf similar to putting greens, use Chewing’s or New Zealand red fescue, which is a grass having a dark green colour and which makes a solid, compact turf. It is particularly adapted to sowing on sandy loam soil but succeeds well on clay loam or even on clays. When seeded alone one hundred pounds per acre should be used. It is the best lawn grass for growing in the shade under American conditions. Another fine-leaved grass making a dense, velvety turf is creeping bent. It does 58 THE COMPLETE GARDEN best where the summers are cool and moist; that is, in the northeastern states and on the northwest coast. When the soil is limy, other grasses, such as blue grass and white clover, tend to crowd out creeping bent. It should be sown alone except that combined with red fescue ‘it will be satisfactory for a few years, after which the two grasses tend to separate and make circular mats. There are standard mixtures on the market offered by the more reliable firms for special uses such as on golf greens, fairways, and shady locations. In the section south of Washington, D. C., except in the higher altitudes, it is not advisable to use Kentucky blue grass. White clover, in this section of the country, becomes the prevailing grass in lawns. In the northern part of this area, white clover, redtop, and Rhode Island bent make an excellent lawn, but not a lawn as per- manent in character as the northern turf. Sopp1nc. Sodding instead of seeding has the following advantages: (1) grass of a known texture can be obtained; (2) an immediate stand of grass is secured; (3) sod can be laid at any season except when the ground is frozen. The disadvantages, however, are quite numerous: (1) a seeded lawn is as good and generally is better within a year; (2) the expense of sodding a lawn is great; (3) it is usually difficult to procure good sod; (4) sod will heave on heavy soils if laid too late in the fall; (5) it is difficult to get perfect unions between sods. Sod is generally used along the edges of walks, borders, banks, and close to buildings, when seeding an area; and also on areas such as terraces and laundry yards which are to be used immediately. The preparation of a lawn for sodding is the same as for seeding. Sod should be laid on a firm foundation; that is, the soil should be thor- oughly tamped before any sod is placed upon it. ‘The best sod is secured from pastures which are on a heavy type of soil. Pasture turf is cropped and therefore forms a dense growth which can be removed in thin layers. Cut the sod about one and one-half inches thick, twelve inches wide, and three feet long. A foot-wide board should be laid on the turf and the strips cut along either side with an edger. The sod is lifted with a spade or preferably with a turfing iron. The strips are rolled up, grass side in, and should be relaid as soon as possible. When laying sod, fill the junctions with fine soil and then beat it down with the back of a spade or with a sod pounder, LAWNS 59 remembering that it cannot be pounded too hard. After being laid, sod must be cared for carefully throughout the summer. LAWNS FOR THE SOUTH SoIL AND Ciimatic Conpitions. The extreme heat and the long dry spells during the summer months throughout the southern states make it inadvisable to try to establish a turf similar to the turf of the northern lawns, composed mostly of Kentucky blue grass, redtop, clovers, and bents. ‘These grasses, when used in the south for a lawn turf, will completely burn out during the summer months unless an abnormal amount of labour is employed to protect them by excessive waterings. While in the northern section of the country lawns in general are developed on good loam or topsoil, the soil conditions of the south are somewhat different. The soil throughout the south, es- pecially in Florida, is generally known as yellow or clay sand on which lawns can be developed with the least difficulty, and the white sand which contains little or no plant food and on which no satisfactory lawn can be developed without the addition of a considerable quantity of muck. The “topsoil” sand, so-called, often possesses a considerable quantity of food matter; but the ease with which water drains from it combined with the heat of summer will cause the northern types of grasses to burn out and also will kill many of the southern types of grasses. To one who has been accustomed to the sharp line of differentia- tion between the topsoils and subsoils of the north the problem of drawing a definite line between the topsoil and subsoil under the condi- tions of the far south is somewhat puzzling. As a matter of fact, on all soils, with the exception of a good type of muck soil coming from the swampy areas and the hammock land, no good lawn can be developed without the addition of considerable fertilizer. In the north the value of a lawn continues only during the growing season, from April until October. In the south, especially through- out the section visited by many of the northern tourists, temperature conditions are favourable for the growing of a lawn throughout the entire winter. It is therefore desirable to have types of grasses for the development of lawn areas both during the winter months and the summer months. The excessive cost of maintaining a good turf on lawn areas during the hot and dry summer months has discouraged the development of extensive lawn areas as seen in the northern states, 60 THE COMPLETE GARDEN except on golf courses, where the fairways and greens are maintained regardless of normal cost. Little experimenting has been done in the far south to determine individual types or combinations of types of northern grasses which will thrive best under these climatic conditions both during the winter months and the summer months. Tyres or Grasses FoR Lawns. ‘There are three groups of grasses which are used for the development of lawns in the far south (through- out Georgia, Alabama, and Florida). ‘The first group consists of the more or less native grasses, Bermuda grass, St. Augustine grass, and blanket or carpet grass. These grasses will not make a perfect turf as a “perfect turf” is known in the northern states. They grow vigorously and spread rapidly when the temperature does not fall below 50 or 55 degrees. The second group, of which Ross’s Southern Mixture is typical, is composed of types of northern grasses, such as orchard grass, Rhode Island bent, redtop, and a small portion of Italian rye, which as a result of experiments have produced good turf on southern lawns. The third group is made up of Italian rye, which germinates quickly and produces a green turf and lives for but a short period during the cooler winter months. It burns out quickly during the hot summer months. Types oF Sorts. In the preparation and development of lawn areas, especially on virgin soil, the land must be cleared and the stumps removed. It is preferable that stumps should either be pulled out by tractor or team, chopped out, or in the instance of pine lands, they should be burned out. The operation of blasting stumps, in order to remove them, leaves a considerable hole, which, when filled with loose soil, however thoroughly tamped, may cause a depression in the lawn on account of later settling. After the land is cleared and the stumps are removed, the lawn is brought to an even grade, and unless the soil is a rich yellow “topsoil” sand, it is advisable to spread a layer of muck, averaging from two to four inches in depth, over the entire lawn area. A deeper covering of muck would be better. The cost of excessive “mucking” is often the determining factor. This muck, which usually comes from the swamps, should be selected with great care. Not all so-called “muck” soil in swamps is adapted for use on lawns. It is often the case that swamp muck put on a high, dry, and sandy LAWNS 61 soil will, under the sun’s rays, quickly dry out and become pow- dery. It is best to obtain, if possible, a sandy muck or black soil of a vegetable nature and not of a woody nature. This can be obtained from the edges of the hammock lands. This type of muck does not dry out. Good muck, taken from the upper layers of swamp areas, ought to be mixed thoroughly with a generous amount of lime and the entire mixture ought to remain for two or three months before it is applied to the lawn area. The mucks to be avoided are the woody and very sour types. PLANTING AND SEEDING Lawns. The season for making a lawn varies with the kind of a lawn which is desired, and also with the season of the year when the lawn is to be used. Especially in the far southern states, some lawns may be intended for use and enjoyment throughout the entire year, while another group of lawns may be in- tended to be at their best during the winter months. With the lawn developed from Bermuda grass or St. Augustine grass the period required for the development of a good turf averages from three months to four months. Therefore, if a lawn of this type is to be developed as a lawn to be maintained throughout the entire year the Bermuda grass or St. Augustine grass can be planted at any time. The ideal time just prior to the rainy season in June or July should be selected so that the roots of this grass can have the benefit of the heavy rains. If a lawn of this character is to be developed as an asset to a distinctly winter home, and artificial watering condi- tions are immediately available, the Bermuda grass or St. Augustine grass can be planted at any time during the growing season. It is not advisable to plant either of these grasses during the winter months from December to February when temperature conditions are apt to be so low that growth is not encouraged. On the other hand, Italian rye, which is distinctly a grass for winter lawns, cannot be seeded to advantage in the summer months from April to October. Lawns composed of Italian rye may be seeded at any time of the year from the first of November to the first of March. The time re- quired for Italian rye to establish itself, and to produce a green lawn area, averages from three to five weeks. An excellent way in which to obtain a green lawn during the winter months is to seed a Bermuda grass lawn, which is at least three months old, with Italian rye at the rate of one pound for every one hundred square feet. Inthe middle and 62 THE COMPLETE GARDEN southern portions of Florida this is perhaps the most satisfactory method of making a good turf which will be more or less firm and which will be green through the winter months. Italian rye will burn out as soon as the weather begins to get warmer during the middle or latter part of March, and can be reseeded on the foundation of Bermuda grass, in the same manner, during the succeeding fall. Lawns composed of the northern mixtures of grass seed, of which the Ross’s Southern Mixture is typical, can be seeded at any time during the cooler months between November and March. These lawns may be maintained in the same manner that any northern lawn is maintained if an excessive amount of care in watering is devoted to them during the hot summer months. It is preferable to reseed each season. ‘This type of lawn is prepared and seeded in a manner similar to the lawns of the north and will establish itself under normal condi- tions in a period ranging from four to six weeks. ‘This seed is sown at the rate of one pound for each two hundred square feet of lawn area. The operation of seeding lawns with mixtures of northern seed adapted for southern use, and also with Italian rye, is the same as sowing seed for the development of lawns in the north. It is not advisable to try to develop Bermuda grass and St. Augustine grass lawns through seeding. A better lawn can be obtained with less difficulty by planting small clumps of Bermuda grass and St. Augustine grass (Plate VIII) in little drills ten inches or twelve inches apart or by staggering at intervals of twelve inches to eighteen inches. The greater the desire to have a close mat of Bermuda grass or St. Augustine grass the closer should the individual roots be planted. For small lawn areas, tees and greens on golf courses where the time is short in which to develop a good turf, these roots or clumps may be planted as close as six inches from each other. The usual method is to find a patch al- ready growing. The best method of gathering Bermuda grass is to dig underneath the roots with a grub axe or mattock and to gather up the roots with some type of a fork, such as a potato fork. As much soil as possible should be taken up with the roots, where the grass 1s naturally in rich, fertile soil; otherwise the soil can be shaken from the roots. The best method of handling these roots is to place the entire mass in potato sacks, especially if the source of gathering the grass is at a considerable distance from the place where the lawn is being made. Just previous to planting, the grass should be either torn apart leaving roots and tops on the same stem, or it should be Pete Pd Jy, nee se ” «~™ * MSDs real ys =. a 2 ~~ Sa eS RE, ~~ = Bes * tection both against injury from sun-scald and against injury from severe wind Trees are given winter pro PLATE X. and changing temperature conditions. Ss > This photograph shows one method of protecting hemlocks against the sun (See page 105) rays. nt er eS SEBBER. 22074 ig Pirate XI. The list of evergreens adapted to soil and to climatic condi- tions of the middle-west, and valuable for low, refined, mass plantings is limited. The upper photograph shows an effect produced by the use of dwarf yew, Pfitzers and tamarisk-leaved junipers, Mugho pines and Japanese spurge edging. The lower photograph shows the effectiveness of masses of low, re- fined evergreens against massive architecture. (See page 114) LAWNS 63 chopped into small sections. The first method is preferable. These sections of roots or small clumps are planted from three to six inches deep; more shallow if the soil is moist. Shallow planting should be adopted only where ideal conditions exist for keeping the soil moist. It requires approximately three cubic yards of these roots to plant one acre of lawn. If the roots are contained in two and one half bushel sacks it will require from one hundred and forty to one hun- dred and fifty of these sacks filled with Bermuda grass roots to plant one acre of lawn, or approximately one sack for each two hundred and twenty-five square feet. These roots of Bermuda grass or St. Augustine grass should not be permitted to dry out, either while piled waiting for shipment or while in transit to the place where the lawn is being made. Injury from the drying out of the roots of these plants between the time they are dug and the time they are planted is not nearly so serious as the injury caused by heating or sweating while the plants are still in the sacks. If these plants are allowed to heat or sweat they immediately turn yellow, begin to rot and die. Any plants that have been subjected to this heating or sweating process should not be planted. If the lawn which is to be developed is large, then a simple method of planting these grasses is to spread them broadcast over the ground and to disc the roots in with a harrow, or to plow a shallow furrow and plant the roots in the furrows. The discing process has sometimes proved a failure. It requires approximately twice as much grass and roots as the planting in furrows, in order to get the same stand of grass. Itis.a process, however, which can well be adopted where an immediate even stand of grass is not essential. This is true because in the process of planting in furrows the grass can be more evenly dis- tributed at a shallow depth while in the discing process most of the grass finds itself at a considerable depth, thus requiring more time for the grass to reach the surface. The Italian rye lasts only during one season. The Bermuda grass and St. Augustine grass will make a lawn nearly as permanent as any northern lawn, provided the proper maintenance and attention in rolling and watering is given. Lawns of these types should be watered at least once in ten days or two weeks, at which intervals they should be thoroughly soaked. In order to maintain a Bermuda grass lawn in its best condition the lawn should go through the process of renovation every second or third year. This process consists of a discing, done for the purpose of cutting the roots and producing new 64 THE COMPLETE GARDEN stoloniferous growth. The harrow should be permitted to cut this ground to a considerable depth, so as to encourage new root growth as well as a deeper root growth. Probably the average depth which the harrow cuts approximates from two to four inches. ‘The ideal harrow for this purpose is known as the alfalfa renovator which is used for the purpose of cutting a deep furrow into the soil rather than disturbing the soil. ' If the lawn area is composed of a combination of Bermuda grass and Italian rye, or of a southern mixture of northern grass seed, it should be thoroughly soaked with water as often as once every two days. Superficial watering under conditions of hot sun and dry climate is more injurious to the southern lawn than a similar watering would be to a northern lawn. Where an excellent lawn turf is desired from November to April, it is much preferable to top dress the Bermuda grass foundation with a thin coating of muck, or rich soil, and to seed each fall with Italian rye asa filler. Ifalawn of northern grasses is to be maintained from November to April, experience to date has taught us that, the most practical method is that of reseeding the entire lawn area during the middle or latter part of October, or early November, rather than to expend the labour necessary to maintain a turf during the hot summer months when it is not used. CHAPTER VI BULB CULTURE CHARACTERISTICS OF Buss. A bulb is a large dormant bud, and is a condensed plant when dormant. Bulbs can develop only flowers which were formed within them before they were ripened. The dormant period of a bulb occurs in order to carry it over the dry or cold season. A good bulb must be fully developed, in good soil, and under good conditions. It must be kept from heating, sweating, or rotting in transit, and must not be kept out of the ground so long as to dry out to an injurious extent. When buying bulbs always take into consideration that cheap bulbs are invariably poor bulbs and that size alone does not count, but adds to the probability that the bulb is mature. Plump, solid bulbs give the best blooms, and if to this is added size, the bulb is ideal. There are two groups of bulbs: those which should be planted in the fall to produce flowers in the spring, such as tulips, narcissi, and crocuses, and those which should be planted in the spring to pro- duce flowers in the summer and early fall, such as gladioli. (In botanical science in the case of the gladiolus the term is “corm” rather than “bulb.’’) TIME FOR PLANTING Buss. Nothing is gained by planting spring- flowering bulbs, such as tulips, narcissi, crocuses, hyacinths, squills, and Spanish irises, before September or October. The reason for planting, then, is that they keep better in the ground, and as they start to root in the fall they begin growth earlier in the spring. It is hardly possible to plant bulbs of this group early enough in the spring to secure any flowers the same season. These bulbs should be planted not earlier than six weeks before the hard frosts. Narcissi may be planted earlier, and it is preferable to plant crocuses early. Crocuses are usually planted in the lawn. An early bloom is desirable; therefore early September planting permits root growth in the fall and the 65 66 THE COMPLETE GARDEN flowers mature and pass before the grass requires cutting. Bulbs, in order to make some root growth in the fall, should not be planted very late. Autumn-flowering sorts, such as the colchicum and the saffron crocus, may be planted in August or early September, if well protected, but if planted in the spring should be set out after danger from frost is past. Narcissi and hyacinths are planted preferably early in October, while tulips, particularly the late-blooming, may wait till November. If the ground begins to freeze hard before the bulbs can be planted it should be kept warm by a litter of straw or leaves. Such a blanket spread over frozen ground early in the winter will enable the heat within the earth to thaw it out and permit quite late planting. If bulbs are planted late it is well to cover them with mulch at once in order that root growth may be made before the cold prevents it. If the bulbs are planted early in the fall, however, the mulch should be applied only after the ground has been frozen to a depth of several inches. Thus excessive top growth will not start prematurely. Gladiolus bulbs should be planted in the spring after the fro sts are over. The period required for such bulbs to mature is about ninety days. Therefore, a succession of bloom can be obtained by planting at intervals of ten days or two weeks. Under expert care, in well-drained soils and with sufficient protection, many gladiolus bulbs can be planted in the fall and thereby insure a very much earlier bloom in the summer. This should at first be tried only with extreme caution, and the plants will need protection from spring frosts. Sort AND DraINaAGE REQUIREMENTS. Bulbs should be planted in a well-drained, deep, rich soil in order to develop successfully. In wet soils put a handful of sand under each bulb to keep the water away from the immediate vicinity of the bulbs. In wet locations the beds should be raised. Hyacinths require a sandy soil and soon become diseased in heavy soils. Few lilies will succeed in limestone soil. Lilies require extra good drainage and rich soil. Some will do well in heavy soil, as the madonna lily and the tiger lily. It is best to sur- round lily bulbs with sand, and where drainage is not ideal, plant the bulbs onone side so that water may not collect in the heart of the bulb. FERTILIZERS FOR Buss. No fresh manure should ever touch a bulb, but well-rotted manure may be incorporated deep in the soil before planting with the best of results. The manure should be ac- BULB CULTURE 67 cessible to the feeding roots but be kept away from the bulb. Do not use manure at all unless the bed is excavated to a depth that makes it possible to spade the manure in below the level on which the bulbs are to rest. Tulips are less apt to be injured by manure than are narcissi. For planting with a trowel or dibble, bone meal only should be used. Leaf mold and sand should be added to heavy soils. Bone meal used with bulbs tends to increase the size of the blooms. Liquid manure, added liberally when the plants are budding, has often given excellent results. To increase the development of new bulblets and especially of gladioli, a fertilizer containing a large percentage of potash is desirable. DeptH For PLantinGc Butss. Unless a bed of bulbs is planted at uniform depth they will not bloom uniformly. It is a good practice to exca vate a bed to a given depth, place the bulbs as desired over the bottom, and then cover all to the same depth, thus making certain that they are evenly planted. The larger and stronger bulbs are, the deeper they may be planted. They may be planted deeper in sandy soil than in heavy clay soil. A general rule for planting depth is three times the average diameter of the bulb. Bulbs are frequently planted too shallow. For depths at which to plant bulbs, also distances apart, see “Bulb Table” (Plate IX, Page 46). When planted in holes made with a dibble, put loose dirt or sand in the bottom of the hole to avoid air space. Planting with trowel or dibble, however, should not be done where uniform show beds are desired. For lawns, bulbs may be dibbled in, but it is better to cut the sod and press back after planting. This is done in the fall when lawns are soft from rains. Mutcuinc Burss. Bulbs lie dormant, to all appearances, over winter, and should be thoroughly mulched to insure that they do not start to grow in any unseasonable warm spell of weather, and also in order to prevent heaving. Mulch with straw or leaves to a depth of four inches to six inches, but do not add this mulch too early; wait till a fairly thick crust has been frozen over the ground. Lilies always require heavy protection and will succeed better in partial shade. Remove the mulch or litter in spring before warm weather and after damage from freezing is past. The coarse part of the mulch should be picked off carefully, care being taken not to injure the tops of 68 THE COMPLETE GARDEN the bulbs. ‘Che finer pieces of mulch may be worked into the soil, if the cultivating is done cautiously. REPRODUCTION OF Bugs. Many bulbs, like the varieties of crocus and certain varieties of narcissi, will continue to multiply by devel- oping small bulblets and in that way produce a flower effect for a considerable number of years. Other bulbs, like certain varieties of the tulips and other varieties of narcissi, will have their energy sapped during the first one or two years. They will not reproduce bulblets and the result is that in order to continue the flower effect new bulbs must be purchased and planted in their place at the end of two or three years. Spanish iris and also the English iris will, under ideal conditions of soil and cultivation, continue to develop new bulbs and to multiply... For this reason they can be left in the ground during a number of years. In cutting flowers from bulbs it 1s quite necessary that some leaf surface should remain after the flower stalk has been removed. This leaf surface provides a ‘‘stomach” for the plant, in which digestive functions continue and new food is supplied to the bulb for the purpose of enlarging it and for the purpose of forming new bulblets. The gladiolus is the best example of bulbs which are reproduced in the average garden by new bulblets. Many varieties of gladioli, however, will not reproduce bulblets if the flowers are re- moved. None of the varieties of the gladiolus will produce new bulblets or make strong bulbs if, when the flowers are cut, all of the leaves are removed. TREATMENT OF Butss AFTER FLowERING. Bulbs will not ripen if the tops are cut very soon after flowering. For best results, do not remove the tops before late June, or until leaves turn brown. When cutting flowers cut as few leaves as possible, and do not cut the entire stem of a lily. Never lift any bulbs, if it is possible to wait, before the tops are brown and limp. If bulbs must be removed to make way for other plants, take roots, top and all—some soil also with the roots. Heel-in, not too close together, in a shady spot until the tops commence to die. Autumn-flowering bulbs also should be allowed to ripen be- fore removal for winter storage. Oftentimes it becomes necessary in the renovating of the flower garden to dig up bulbs during the month of September or October. This is not desirable. Wherever it is foreseen that the soil in the BULB CULTURE 69 flower beds must be spaded over and refertilized in the fall, all bulbs should be removed in the late spring and stored in the usual manner in a cool, dry, dark place in the cellar or shed until time to plant them in the fall. If it is necessary to dig up bulbs in the fall after some root growth has started, then these bulbs should be taken up with some soil attached to the roots. They should be kept moist and replanted just as soon as practical. They should never be left to dry out because after the root growth has once started this drying out of the roots is likely to cause considerable injury to the bulbs. Only such perma- nent sorts as the tulips, especially the Darwins, narcissi, and the lilies will as a rule repay the trouble entailed. Hyacinths seldom can be depended upon for good bloom after the first display, in any event, and are thus hardly worth the trouble of replanting. In the eastern states and in the Middle West root growth in bulbs hardly ever starts before the latter part of September because the dry months of late summer keep the bulbs dormant until the fall rains. When replanting of bulbs is done after September 15th, a good mulch of straw manure put on to keep the frost out of the ground as long as possible is essential. Of lilies, in the case of the foreign and the hybridized, it is practically useless, in general, to try to prolong life and to improve bloom from year to year by taking the bulbs up annually. Careful study and ex- perimenting are necessary to determine what kinds it is best to plant. The tiger lily, the speciosum, white and pink-dotted, and the madonna lily are managed easily and the native lilies are apt to be permanent, if given their natural conditions. The one named last should be planted early in the autumn or even late in the summer, not more than two or three inches deep and in heavy or somewhat clayey soil. The bulbs of this and of the others:named here may be taken up every few years, as they increase in number, and be replanted in fresh soil. The bulbs of nearly all lilies except notably the madonna may be kept over winter packed in moss or sand and stored in a cool place where they will not freeze. Then they can be successfully planted in the spring (Con- sult XXXIII-F, Page 253). Narcissi are best left undisturbed for several years. It is best to allow crocuses and early tulips to run out, unless the tulips are wanted for formal effects. All tulips, like hyacinths, yield most satisfactory bloom if they are taken up annually and replanted at the proper season. Only the larger bulbs should be planted, where uniformity of effect is 70 THE COMPLETE GARDEN desired, while the smaller ones may be planted apart by themselves to increase in size. Late tulips often do very well undisturbed for three, four, or five years. Crocuses, squills, and narcissi may be naturalized, especially if care is taken not to cut the tops tco closely or too soon after blooming. This is one of the strong arguments in favour of planting crocus bulbs in September. The tops will have then matured before spring mowing begins. After the bulbs of any kind have been lifted, and the tops are dried, these tops should be carefully trimmed off and the bulbs stored in a dark, cool place until time for replanting. Plant bulbs in combinations as shown under “Bulbs.” Learn which are late flowering and which are early; also which varieties are tall and which are short. Choose lilies that are easy to grow and select varieties that have proved successful. Forcinc Butss. Bulbs are grown extensively, both privately and commercially, for cut flowers, and for indoor use during the winter season. It is not hard to achieve success in forcing bulbs if two important rules are observed, namely: 1. Procure the strongest and best bulbs possible, for good care will improve the quality of the flowers but not the quantity. The latter is always fixed within the bulb before it is purchased. 2. Perfect root development must be insured before the tops are permitted to start growth. The bulbs should be planted as soon as they are procurable, with late August and November as limits. The soil to use should be rich loam mixed with bone meal in a one to fifty proportion. If the soil is heavy add leaf mold or sand. It is better to avoid manure unless it is thoroughly rotted and pulverized. Five-inch pots may be used for larger bulbs, such as hyacinths; and a three or four-inch pot for one tulip or any bulb other than a hyacinth bulb of large size. It is better, however, to plant three or more bulbs in a larger pot, as soil moisture and temperature are more evenly maintained. When being forced for cut flowers, bulbs are planted in boxes or flats of a depth of three inches to four inches, with the bulbs set from one inch to two inches apart. This is a good way to grow bulbs for decoration also, since the flats can be covered with crepe paper, rafha mats, etc., when the flowers are in bloom. Broken pottery or charcoal should be put in the bottom of the pots for drainage. The soil is then sifted into the BULB CULTURE 71 pot or flat, but not packed, and the bulb is so planted that the top is just below the surface. Do not press the bulbs down. After planting, water thoroughly to settle the soil firmly about the bulb and do not water again until the top growth starts unless the pots or flats are stored in a place where they will dry out. After being planted, the bulbs must be stored away in order that they may root properly, because rooting is the most important phase in successful bulb forcing. There are several methods of storage: 1. Place the pots, flats, etc., in a cold frame or cold pit and cover with four inches of sand, rotted leaves, or ashes. Put on the sash when freezing weather arrives and open on pleasant days. 2. Pots may be placed in a cool, dark cellar, and will keep well if the soil is kept moist but not wet. The danger here is from drying out if they are not watched at frequent intervals. 3. A better method is to dig a trench one foot deep, put in three inches of ashes for drainage and to keep out worms; put in the pots and fill the trench with soil. During freezing weather cover with rough stable manure, leaves, or straw, to a depth of four inches. 4. Pots may be set out and covered with eight inches or ten inches of leaves, filling in between the pots with soil to maintain moisture. Early bulbs, such as paper white narcissi and Roman hyacinths, will root sufficiently in a period of six weeks. It is much better, how- ever, to leave bulbs in storage for a period of eight weeks. Spanish iris bulbs require a longer period for the formation of root growth than most of the other bulbs. This group is probably the most dificult group to force successfully. They should remain buried in the cold frame or in the pit, with all top growth retarded, until a complete root system is established. When ample roots are formed and about one inch of top growth has appeared, it is time to lift all bulbs and remove them to a semi-dark cellar where they may be kept in a cool temperature with little light to encourage the immediate development of stems and foliage. Avoid, at this period, direct sun- light. After a reasonable amount of growth is secured, place the pots where desired. Bulbs should be taken out of storage in relays to provide a succession of bloom. There are very few types of bulbs which are adapted for forcing in water. The paper white narcissus is best adapted to this type of forcing. A few of the other types of narcissus may be grown in this way, and occasionally early single tulips, Spanish irises, and crocuses 72 THE COMPLETE GARDEN _ can be successfully forced in water. The best method of forcing bulbs in water is that of setting each bulb in a shallow receptacle, partially filled with sand or coarse gravel, and keeping the water just even or slightly below the base of the bulb. These bulbs should then be kept in a dark, cool place for at least six weeks, and the receptacle should be frequently filled with water, which must always be clear and fresh. After the bulbs have commenced to root they may be treated in the same way as bulbs forced in soil. Bulbs which have been forced in any manner are of no value for forcing during the second year. Such bulbs should be allowed to ripen their foliage by setting the pots or flats in a cool, light place, and providing them with sufficient water to keep the bulb from drying out until the top growth has ripened and begins to die. These bulbs may then be set in the open ground at the proper time in the autumn and they will produce some flowers during the succeeding year. It is seldom that they will recover their vigour sufficiently to be of value for the purpose of forcing during the second or third year. CHAPTER VII MAINTENANCE* REQUIREMENTS. The maintenance of trees, shrubs, and vines, since they are almost invariably planted where they are expected to re- main permanently, presents fewer difficulties than the care of perennial plantings, except where plants become diseased or subject to insect attack. Maintenance is confined mostly to cultivation, feeding, water- ing, pruning, and spraying. TREES—TREE SurGERy. Pruning has been discussed in Chapter III, but there is an analogous practice often followed by “tree doc- tors,’ namely, the scraping of bark from trees, which should be touched on here. The main object and accomplishment of tree scraping seems to be the providing of work for “tree doctors” during dull seasons. The ultimate consequences to the tree are seldom beneficial, and often fatal. Instances have occurred where handsome shade trees were scraped down to the cambium by ignorant “doctors” and promptly died. The outer bark of trees is placed by nature as a protective covering and should not be removed, except in the case of those trees, such as hickory and plane tree, which naturally shed bark in large scales, and then only when these scales are harbouring insects which cannot be otherwise destroyed. The criticism of the so- called tree doctors is, however, not intended in the least to discredit really expert tree surgeons nor to discourage the employing of them. Quite to the contrary, it should be noted that these men can render most valuable service and that often a greatly prized tree can be saved for many years and its growth greatly improved by having it wisely cared for. The supporting of branches where a crotch might cause a splitting of large limbs is too often neglected. The removing of broken branches often prevents decay from entering into the heart of the tree. The taking out of crossing limbs often makes possible a symmetry of development that otherwise would never be realized. ~ *See also Chapter III on “Pruning” and Chapter VIII on “Winter Protection and Mulching.” 73 "4 THE COMPLETE GARDEN The proper filling of a cavity, after the wound has been scientifically dressed, will enable the cambium to begin to grow over the space and in time to cover it entirely with tissue that will greatly promote future growth of the tree as a whole while at the same time it removes a disigurement. But before the welfare of valuable trees is entrusted to a man who professes to be able to restore them there should be valid assurance of his being in every way proficient and thoroughly compe- tent. FERTILIZING. Shade trees seem to be less intelligently maintained than shrubbery. It is a matter of common knowledge that the roots of trees spread as far or farther than the tops, and that most of the feeding roots are at the extremities of the large roots. Many ex- periments have proved that the effect of fertilizers is rarely felt very far in a lateral direction from the place where applied. Therefore, when feeding a shade tree do not bank a small pile of strawy manure around the trunk, as this encourages mice only. Spread the mulch well out over the whole area covered by the top of the tree, and neglect, if any, the area near the trunk. In case of shade or orchard trees which are not vigorous and which require feeding, recent experiments seem to show that applications of nitrate of soda and acid phosphate are effective. Quantities up to ten pounds for each tree may be used on old trees either spread evenly over the surface of the ground under- neath the tree or introduced beneath the sod in quantities of a handful deposited in the bottom of holes made by a crowbar at staggered in- tervals of eighteen inches. Bone meal is probably one of the best fertilizers to be used in preserving the vitality of shade trees. A successful method of applying bone meal is that of spreading it broad- cast over the lawn surrounding the base of the tree. This fertilizer, which is slow acting, should be applied during the winter or very early spring months, at the rate of at least twenty-five or fifty pounds for trees from ten to twelve inches in diameter, and at a proportionately less rate for trees of smaller diameter. This fertilizer should be applied at least once in two years. It is much better to apply a less amount and to fertilize the trees each year. WarterinG. Most of the deep-rooted shade trees, such as oaks, sek dom need watering after they are once established, but it is often advisable to grve shade trees a heavy watering in time of drought. MAINTENANCE 7 Surface sprinkling is not desirable as it encourages surface rooting and seldom does much good. In case it is necessary to water a shade tree the best plan is to throw up a shallow embankment of earth around the tree just outside the spread of the branches if possible, and flood the enclosed area at intervals not more often than once in five or six days. Many trees and shrubs will be much benefited in time of drought if their tops are sprinkled at sundown on very hot days. SPRAYING. Spraying of plants as a scientific practice is, com- paratively speaking, a modern procedure, but the necessity for doing something to protect plants against insects and plant diseases has been understood since antiquity. In their writings the Greeks, Romans, and Hebrews noted the existence of rusts and mildews, and the plague of locusts is of Biblical record. Spraying is only one of several ways of protecting plants and among the others may be enumerated hand picking, fumigating, banding, burning, using fungous diseases as insecticides, crop rotation, soil sterilization and various other more or less practical methods. These other methods are important when understood and put into practice at the right moment and in the right way, but they are inexact com- pared to spraying and are seldom as efficient. Spraying, by which is meant the use of chemicals to poison or otherwise exterminate animal and vegetable parasites on plants, has been reduced very nearly to an exact science in this country, largely within the last century, and, while it is not the purpose here to go too deeply into this art, some broad rules may be laid down and some little understood points cleared up. Our Government and State Experiment Stations have been largely responsible for the rapid strides taken in this art in this country. They have issued many bulletins and spray calendars containing exact directions for combating all the known insect pests and plant diseases and they always stand ready to help any one who asks for it. Yet much of their help comes too late and much money is wasted each year with consequent disappointment, because a few simple principles are not clearly understood. Some of the overlooked factors which are not taken into account are as follows: (1) a spray mixture must be the correct one as, for example, it does no good to use poison upon an insect at a period in its life history when it does not eat; (2) the spray mixture must not injure the plants, or else the cure will be 76 THE COMPLETE GARDEN worse than the disease; (3) a thorough job must be done or else the whole job may have to be done over at too late a season to secure the best results; (4) the correct time must be picked or a rain storm may undo the whole work within a few hours; (5) the spray must stick to the plant long enough to be of some use, especially in the case of poisons. The various forms of sprays may be classified in four different ways: according to the season of spraying, the kind of chemicals used, the form in which the chemical is applied, and the kind of plants sprayed. SEASONS FOR SPRAYING. ‘The seasons for outdoor spraying are two: the summer or growing season, and the winter or dormant season. Summer sprays are invariably not applied so strong as winter sprays, because the bark on the new shoots as well as the leaves would be injured by a spray of a strength which would not only be entirely safe, but advisable to use when a plant was dormant. Dormant sprays are mostly confined to those applied for protection against vegetable parasites and those intended to destroy scale insects. Some useful winter work is often done in the destroying of egg masses and cocoons by torches and the application of creosote or other strong paints by hand in small quantities; but this is not, strictly speaking, spraying. Summer spraying includes nearly all the methods used in the dormant season, with the spray made more or less dilute, dependent upon the exact season, as well as all the other forms of sprays. It should be noted that dormant spraying may be done at almost any time after the plants become dormant in the autumn and until they start growth in the spring; but it is not advisable to attempt to spray during freezing weather, nor too early in the winter, because in the latter event much of the benefits of the spray will be lost through the subsequent winter storms. If dormant spraying is delayed until nearly spring some beneficial results may be expected to extend into the summer, which would otherwise have been lost. Summer spraying, on the contrary, must usually be done at some precise time in order to secure the de- sired results, though this is not always strictly necessary. Spray Cuemicats Usep. ‘The spray chemicals used are those which are best adapted to destroy the various forms of plant and animal parasites which it is desired to attack. Sometimes it is possible to combine two forms of chemicals in one spray and thus make one MAINTENANCE 77 operation serve two purposes. Those sprays intended for leaf-eating insects are classified as poisons and act like all poisons on being ab- sorbed into the digestive tract of the insect. It is generally necessary only to secure an even distribution of such a spray, which usually con- tains some form of arsenic, over the leaves of the plant. Those sprays intended for insects, such as the scale insects, which do not eat leaves or green parts of plants, are classified as contact insecticides. They kill by suffocating the insect or by their direct physical action upon the body of the insect. Thus they may also be useful against leaf-eating insects as well. These sprays may be merely some powder in a form so minute that it can enter the breathing apparatus of the insect or, in the case of the sucking insects, some oil which can be held in suspen- sion in water long enough to allow it to be sprayed over the plant. Other well-known contact insecticides are tobacco extract (nicotine sulphate) and various soaps, such as “whale oil’”’ soap, made from fish oil. Sometimes poisonous gases are used for this purpose but that is, properly speaking, fumigation and not spraying. The third classifica- tion of sprays according to chemicals is that intended for fungous diseases, caused by low forms of vegetable parasites. Anthracnose, rust, mildew, canker, blight, and numerous other descriptive names are given to these diseases but they are nearly all treated alike by the application of a fungicide which is generally some spray containing sulphur, either lime-sulphur mixture or Bordeaux mixture, which is a lime and copper sulphate mixture. The lime-sulphur mixture also acts as a contact insecticide in some cases. Fungicides should be applied very evenly over the whole of the plant from top to bottom and may be used much stronger during the dormant season than would be safe during the growing season. Forms oF Sprays. The types of spray classified according to the form in which they are used are two. The most generally used form is the liquid, which generally means a chemical in suspension in water. Most sprays used in liquid form are chosen because of their ability to stay in suspension in water for a considerable length of time without either going into solution or gathering in lumps. This property of staying in suspension is a very valuable one, because it insures an even distribution of the spray material without an excessive amount of agitation to keep the mixture even. There is an increasing tendency to use the dust form of spray in which the chemicals are blown upon 78 THE COMPLETE GARDEN the plants in the form of a very fine powder which is largely dependent upon atmospheric moisture to make it stick to the plant. Dust sprays are used more often in a commercial way than by the average amateur when protecting ornamental plants, and this form of spray is not adapted to all the chemicals used, as, for instance, the oil and tobacco extract sprays. Sometimes poisons are mixed with bait and spread upon the ground near the plants to be protected, but this again is not spraying in the generally accepted sense of the word. OuTFITS FOR SPRAYING. There are various spraying outfits adapted to the various requirements dependent on the amount of work to be done and the physical difficulties to be overcome. Probably the best small outfit for the amateur is the knapsack sprayer which can be easily transported and even carried up into the tops of trees if necessary. This consists of an airtight receptacle for the spray mixture, which may be strapped to the back in such a way as to easily allow the pressure to be kept up with one hand while the nozzle attached to a short length of hose is manipulated in the other hand. The best knapsack sprayers have a copper tank holding about four gallons of liquid, a brass pump, and an air pressure chamber which insures a steady stream. They weigh fifty pounds when full of liquid. A cheaper pump of about the same type but small capacity is the bucket pump which can be used with any bucket or pail. This is harder to transport about and not so satisfactory in other ways as a knapsack sprayer. There are various types of hand-operated barrel outfits. Sometimes the barrel is mounted on large wheels so that it can be easily moved about with a pump installed in the head of the barrel, or sometimes a larger hand-operated pump is mounted on a cart beside a barrel or tank. Such an outfit will take care of all but the tallest trees and is about the largest suitable for amateur spraying. It has enough capacity to take care of considerable spraying and enough pressure to insure a fine spray reaching all parts of even large plants. For occasionally spraying small shrubs and such plants as perennials and annual flowering herbs a small hand force pump is a very con- venient one to have. These small pumps hold a quart of liquid in a glass or copper retainer. The power sprayers are operated either by a gearing or sprocket and chain connecting the wheels of the outfit to the pump or by a gasoline engine mounted on a platform together with a pump and i1nqoid adeospur| v aonpoid [[IM SudaIBI9A0 * (XJ Joideys aac) Jood jeuttoy ‘pauyar v 10f punossyoeq & se sma pue suoIpuapopoyl ‘siadiunf ‘SIBP9d pat “9eIAIOGIL JO ‘SUOIIIPUOD pues] suoT Jopun ‘asn aanoaya ue smoys ydes80.0yd styy ‘sjueyd snonpisap jo asn ay Yysnosyy uoonpoidar jo sqedeour YIMOI IT9Y2 03 B[qeINOAL] SUOTIIPUOD [IOs pue Seu JapuAQ “TTX aLVIg Prate XIII. Carefully selected and planted trees for avenue and street planting provide a uniform and a symmetrical effect together with the invit- ing shade, all of which are so essential to the standards of modern residential districts. (See page 116, group X-A) MAINTENANCE 79 tank. When many trees are to be sprayed a power sprayer should be used in order to secure a pressure which will enable the forcing of a fine spray to all parts of the tallest trees. For spraying tall trees an apparatus which works up a pressure of two hundred pounds is required so that the spray mixture may leave the nozzle in a solid stream and break into a mist as it nears the top of the tree. This is not required for spraying smaller trees or bushes or flowers where the requirement becomes that of producing a fine spray a few feet from the nozzle. Spray chemicals which are to be used in dust form are applied by means of so-called “powder guns”’ when large amounts are used on large trees. These are seldom useful on ornamental plants because of the usual proximity of houses or public streets and the consequent annoyance caused by clouds of obnoxious dust flying in the air. Many times, however, sulphur dust or hellebore can be applied by means of small hand force pumps adapted to using the dry dust, or this dust can be applied by sifting over the plants through holes punched in the con- tainer in which it is purchased. ForMULAS FOR Sprays. The formulas for some of the simpler insecticides and fungicides will be given here; but it is generally more advisable for the amateur to purchase his chemicals already mixed and in packages of a size adapted for his immediate requirements. Potsons: Paris green—aceto arsenite of copper. Arsenite of lime. Arsenate of lead; use 2 lbs. to 50 gal. water. Hellebore; use 1 ounce to 1 gallon of water. Poison Barts: For cutworms 1 |b. Paris green mixed with ro Ib. bran. For cutworms 1 lb. white arsenic and 1 |b. of sugar or molasses in 6 lbs. of bran. For grasshoppers use the arsenic, sugar, and bran mixture, placing 1 tablespoonful every 6 or 8 feet. For sow bugs or pill bugs use slices of potato dipped in a dry arsenical or a strong solution. Contact INsEcTICIDEs: For plant lice use one lb. soap to 5 to 8 gallons water. For aphids and larve use nicotine sulphate at strength given on package or 1 Ib. tobacco stems boiled in 2 gal. water (Dilution of nicotine sulphate is generally 1 pint to 50 gallons of water. The addition of 2 lbs. of soap is desirable). For scales use 2 gal. kerosene and 1 gal. sour milk. For plant lice use 2 gal. kerosene and 1 gal. soft water and 3 lb. soap. 80 THE COMPLETE GARDEN For scales use in winter only a lime-sulphur spray containing about 20 lbs. of une slaked lime and 15 Ibs. of flowers of sulphur to 50 gal. of water. For red spider and plant mites use flowers of sulphur as a dry powder dusted over the trees when covered with dew or immediately after a rain. For hibernating insects use a miscible or soluble oil at the rate of 1 part of oil to 12 or 15 parts of water. FUNGICIDES: Bordeaux mixture; 5 lbs. copper sulphate and 5 lbs. lime in 50 gal. water. Ammoniacal copper carbonate; 6 oz. copper carbonate and 3 pts. ammonia in 50 gal. of water. Copper sulphate is used, with lime to colour it. For killing fungi on dormant plants. Lime sulphur mixture also acts as a fungicide. SYMPTOMS AND TREATMENTS. The following list shows in parallel columns (1) the symptoms which appear upon diseased plants or those with insect pests, (2) the cause and lastly (3) the indicated treatment. SyMPTOM Scab Leaf spot Leaf curl Canker. Rust Wilt Twig blight Mildews Fruit rot mut Tip burn (leaves) Scald Gum excretion Sawdust excretion Leaf discolouration of conifers Bark discolouration Leaf curling Wilt | CAUSE Fungus Fungus Leaf curl fungus Freezing or rot fungus Rust fungus Fungus Fungus Mildew fungus Anthracnose fungus Smut fungus Too much water fol- lowed by hot weather Freezing and thawing or fungus Borers Borers Red spider Scales Aphids Cut worms TREATMENT Bordeaux or lime-sulphur Bordeaux, also gather and burn diseased leaves Lime-sulphur or Bordeaux Cut out and destroy dis- eased parts Bordeaux, also cut out cedar apples Bordeaux Lime-sulphur, also cut out and burn diseased parts Sulphur dust, also burn leaves in autumn Bordeaux Bordeaux Watch soil conditions Protect from winter sun and use Bordeaux Protective wash and dig out borers Protective wash Dry sulphur dust Lime-sulphur or kerosene emulsion Nicotine sulphate or soapsuds Paris green in molasses in bran MAINTENANCE 81 SyMPTOM CAUSE TREATMENT Defoliation Bag worms or other Arsenate of lead and burn caterpillars winter nests and egg masses Defoliation Rose slugs Arsenate of lead Defoliation Leaf beetles Arsenate of lead Defoliation p Thrips | Nicotine sulphate Leaf discolouration of rho- | Lace-wing fly Soap solution, 1 bar to 20 dodendrons gallons. SPRAYING DON’TS Don’t wait for rose pests—spray first. Don’t destroy toads or birds; they save you lots of trouble with insects. Don’t mix spray materials unless you are a chemist. Don’t use liquid sprays without keeping a uniform solution by means of agitating the liquid. Don’t whitewash your tree trunks; bugs are not afraid of whitewash. Don’t band tree trunks with anything but a preparation and at a time approved by an entomologist. Don’t spray exhibition plants or flowers with a discolouring spray. pray p g spray. Don’t neglect to watch the wind when spraying; it may blow poison g praying y blow p into someone’s face and eyes or over a painted or varnished surface or scatter poison over food crops, like lettuce. Don’t dust your evergreens, coniferous or broad-leaved, with lime; the result will be more serious than any disease. Don’t be bashful about asking your State Experiment Station for help. SHRUBS—CULTIVATION. The cultivation of shrubs is rather over- done than underdone. The natural habitat of most woody plants includes a ground covering of leaves, forest mold, or herbaceous plants and grass; thus they are protected summer and winter against drought and cold. It is not often possible to reproduce such conditions in a made border; but the tendency should be in that direction. While a certain amount of cultivation at first in a shrub border is desirable, especially in new ground, most shrub borders would benefit by being permanently mulched, or at least by not being dug over too deeply after the roots of the shrubs have become established. The use of 82 THE COMPLETE GARDEN ground covers among shrubbery is excellent, and they are especially valuable toward the front of the border. When properly mulched and cared for, shrubbery will seldom need watering after the first year or two, but an occasional good soaking during the drought of summer will not come amiss. It is quite essential, at intervals of every two or three years, that the deciduous shrub borders should be carefully gone over and that the ground around the individual shrubs should be thoroughly loosened wherever it is possible to do so without disturbing the root system. At such times considerable fertilizer consisting of well- rotted manure or a heavy application of bone meal should be applied. No quick-acting fertilizer such as sheep manure, dried blood, or nitrate of soda is desirable. In the successful maintenance of the shrub border the object of supplying fertilizer to that border is not one of forcing growth but one of maintaining normal growth. In the proper maintenance of a shrub border the crowding and dead wood should be removed each year. It often becomes necessary to transplant to other locations and to rearrange some plants where they are becoming too thick in the border plantation, in order to give the remainder of the plants an opportunity to develop normally. We often see shrub plantations which are “leggy.” This can be overcome by a proper pruning each year, consisting of the removal, to a height of twelve or fifteen inches above the ground, of at least one-fourth of the old wood (See Plate No. V). This will encourage new growth from the base of the shrub and, where refined mass effects are desired, this method of pruning will eliminate much of the broken and unkept ap- pearance of many plantations. There are instances in which the ex- tremely old and unkept effect is more to be desired, and this process of pruning cannot be applied. RuopopEnpRoNS. Rhododendrons, other broad-leaved evergreens, and conifers should be thoroughly watered during the late fall and never be allowed to freeze for the winter in a dry condition. This is more often the cause of winter-killing than is severe cold. The reason why these plants are more susceptible to injury on this account is be- cause they hold their leaves during the winter months and thus transpiration continues to some degree, and if the plant is not well filled with moisture, a drying-out process occurs and the plant is devit- alized. Because of the mass of fine, hairlike roots which find their way through the earth near the surface of the ground, rhododendrons can- MAINTENANCE 83 not endure any considerable dry period or any cultivation of the sur- face of the ground, in the same manner as that adopted in caring for deciduous shrubs and the deeper-rooted evergreens. RHODODENDRONS, FERTILIZER For. Rhododendrons and other ericaceous plants should not be fertilized with manure until well established. In the late fall after the rhododendrons have been established one year they may be fertilized by the application of a two- inch layer of well-rotted stable manure over the top of the mulch. This should be repeated each year. Chemical fertilizers are seldom or never used on ericaceous plants. Bone meal should never be used as its bone phosphate of lime is sure to react upon the soil acidity so essential to the successful culture of rhododendrons and allied plants. The use of bone meal has been known to be fatal to these plants. Epsom salt has been recommended as a fertilizer for rhododendrons, but this is probably a mistake and in any event a doubtful procedure because of the chemical nature of this material. As epsom salt is magnesium sulphate and has been used in England to top-dress clover as a substitute for lime, it probably would react in the soil similar to lime and would be injurious to all ericaceous plants. EverGREENS. ‘The greatest problem in the maintenance of ever- greens is that of keeping them in a healthy and vigorous condition of growth. ‘There are certain locations where it is essential to use ever- greens in order to produce a desired effect. Oftentimes these locations are surrounded by a city environment with a dust-laden and smoky atmosphere which is one of the more injurious factors in the growing of evergreens. If such plants are to be maintained in a healthy con- dition they should never be watered on the leaves during the heat of the day when the sun is shining. They should, however, be sprayed with a strong force of water at intervals not less often than once each week in order to wash from the surface of the leaves the accumulated dust which if left causes a devitalized condition of the entire plant. Vines. Vines require but little attention. Wood should be cut back severely in the spring on vines with ornamental fruit. Re- move old canes and check any growth that becomes too rank. Shoots that are too long or spoil the general effect should be cut. All climbers 84 THE COMPLETE GARDEN must be furnished with some kind of support and care should be taken to fasten loose ends. Usually vines are planted close to foundations. It must be re- membered that most foundations are carefully provided with a line of drainage on the outside of the wall in order to readily care for any surface water that seeps into the soil and then later seeps through the wall if not promptly carried away. For this reason, probably, vines require more attention than most other plants in order to keep them supplied with a quantity of water necessary to their normal develop- ment. They should also be very frequently fertilized, preferably with bone meal or well-rotted manure. Well-rotted cow manure is an ideal fertilizer for most vines. Lawns—Fertiizinc. The maintenance of lawns consists of fertilizing, rolling, watering, and mowing in order to keep the turf in such condition that few if any weeds will have an opportunity to flour- ish. Fertilizing of a lawn is perhaps one of the most important items of its maintenance, for the reason that few lawns are so well prepared when first made that they do not begin to need additional food material during the second or third year after making. It is difficult to convince those who are developing lawns for the first time that money expended in the proper preparation and fertilization of a good depth of topsoil will do away with the subsequent annual expense necessary to keep a lawn, not correctly prepared when originally made, in the best condition. A good turf requires food in the form of ferti- lizer, and this food supply must either be provided at the time the lawn is made or it must be constantly applied from year to year afterward (See Page 53). Much thought, labour, and money are wasted in putting a mulch on lawns, only to come back later and cast it away again. It may be wise to mulch a lawn in the fall, but there is more than an even chance that if the area is covered with fresh manure, weeds will be introduced and this will more than offset any real value derived from the mulch. The use of manure as a top-dressing for lawns should be discouraged unless used in the form of a completely decomposed compost. A thick coat of manure is apt to stifle the grass. Lawns should never be mulched with manure during the spring unless with thoroughly rotted manure applied not later than early March. All mulching or top-dressing should be done preferably in the fall so that the weed seeds are killed to a great extent during the winter. It is practically MAINTENANCE 85 useless to apply the manure on frozen ground, for an ensuing rain or melting of the snow may dissolve and carry away either in solution or suspension most of the fertilizing ingredients. If a lawn is not mowed too late in the season and is not cleaned too completely of the mowed grass, it will generally provide its own mulch for the winter very satisfactorily. Bone meal alone, especially if not very finely ground, may be used in the late fall at the rate of five hundred pounds an acre, or twelve pounds to 1,000 square feet every year. Bone meal seems to be the best phosphoric acid carrier for lawns. Nitrate of soda is the quickest- acting fertilizer and may be used broadcast in quantities up to five hun- dred pounds an acre each year. This quantity must be divided among two or three separate applications. Both blue grass and clover will be encouraged by the use of air-slaked lime as a winter dressing every four or five years, at the rate of one ton an acre. Chemical fertilizers are best applied in the spring as a top-dressing and about five hundred pounds an acre should be applied. A mixture of 5% nitrogen, 6% avail- able phosphoric acid, and 8% potash will produce good results. Equal parts of finely ground bone meal and sifted wood ashes at the rate of one ton an acre make a good spring top-dressing. Kiln-dried sheep ma- nure may be used at the rate of one ton an acre or fifty pounds to 1,000 square feet, with excellent results, with the assurance that it will not bring in weed seeds. It should be applied in early spring for the best results. WatTERING Lawns. A properly prepared lawn will not require much watering unless the season is unusually dry or near-by trees are robbing the grass roots. In any event, a few thorough soakings are much more valuable than many superficial sprinklings. The effect of a good thorough soaking is not only more lasting in itself, but also encourages deep rooting of the grass, which, in turn, tends to remove the necessity for watering and also opens up new stores of plant food to the grass roots. It is better to avoid all spray nozzles and whirligig fountains, for, however handsome the effects they may produce in the sunlight, they do not insure a thorough soaking. It does not matter nearly so much at what time of the day a lawn is wet as it does how thoroughly the watering is done. Watering done in the middle of a hot, sunny day, however, is made less effective by reason of evaporation. It also in- volves some scorching or cooking of the blades of grass as the sun shines 86 THE COMPLETE GARDEN through the globules or film of moisture uponthem. Do not hasten to sprinkle a lawn at the first approach of warm weather as this will dis- courage the tendency of the grass roots to go deeper in search of the ground water. If the lawn shows signs later in the season of being in distress, give it a thorough soaking. An effective watering should soak the ground to a depth of five or six inches. ROLLING AND WEEDING Lawns. Rolling of lawns is not resorted to nearly as much as formerly. Probably one good, thorough rolling in the early spring is beneficial, especially on clay land which may have heaved in spots during the winter. Except for this, rolling is of doubt- ful value, especially because during dry weather it causes loss of moisture through transpiration. Weeds in the lawn indicate that the grass is not properly cared for or has been carelessly seeded. Weeds may appear in a new lawn, especially if manure has been used in the preparation. It is not necessary to pull out the annuals, for if the turf is cut they will not seed themselves. Remove only the perennials, such as burdock and plantain. Tread on the holes thus left and fill them with compost and seed. It is better to weed in the fall, as in the spring crab grass is apt to get into bare spots. Perennial weeds should be cut out with a knife, securing as much of the roots as possible; or a drop or two of gasoline will generally kill the plants. Moss and sorrel in a lawn indicate a sour soil needing liberal applications of air- slaked lime. Crab grass causes considerable trouble if once established and care should be taken to remove all portions of the roots. ENEMIES TO Lawns. Weeds are the most important enemies to lawns. The best way to eradicate weeds in a lawn that is otherwise worth saving is to dig them out, fill the holes with good topsoil, and sow fresh seed. Spraying with chemicals and patent remedies has never proved effective. Angle worms or fishworms may be destroyed by the following spray: Dissolve in two gallons of boiling water one pound of common salt and add one pound of corrosive sublimate. Dilute the above with four gallons of water to make a stock solution. One pint of the stock solution should be added to sixteen gallons of water and sprayed over the lawn. Army worms may be destroyed while young by a spray made by dissolving three pounds of arsenate of lead in fifty gallons of water. This should be sprayed over the lawn until it is white. While white grubs are among the grass roots in late July in MAINTENANCE 87 preparation to emerge as adult beetles they may be crushed by rolling the lawn with a ten-ton roller, but failing this heroic treatment, there seems to be no simpler remedy. Mowinc Lawns. Mowing of lawns should be governed by the use to which the lawn is to be put. Mowing should not be very frequent in hot weather nor very long neglected at seasons when the grass is growing rapidly. Clipping should cease before the grass stops grow- ing in the autumn, so that a long growth may be left on the lawn over winter. A portion of the clippings should be left on a lawn to act as a mulch, especially if the grass is cut often. Enough grass leaves must be left on each plant so that it can maintain its growth, but on the other hand, growth must not be carried to the point of seed pro- duction, which, more than anything else, tends to weaken the vitality of a plant. About two inches is the height most often recommended for grass. It is best to leave mower knives set high and mow more frequently rather than to allow grass to grow high and then cut it low and thus remove too large a portion of the leaf surface of the plant, and also expose the soil to the direct rays of the sun. When a lawn becomes run down it is generally better to remake it entirely, instead of wasting money on patching. It is well to consider that if the original grass could not succeed on the soil, new grass will certainly fail. PERENNIALS—WINTER Protection. In general, the better es- tablished a perennial is, the less winter protection it requires. How- ever, even though plants would winter over safely if uncovered, they should be protected from the heaving which follows alternate thawing and freezing. In the case of perennials planted in the autumn this is exceedingly important for the first winter. Snow is a good protective covering, but it is rarely that plants will be so covered during the entire winter. It is accordingly advisable to apply a mulch. Mulching in the fall provides an opportunity for fertilizing as well as protection, especially if good straw manure is used. Straw or corn- stalks provide excellent mulch for perennials but both encourage mice. These pests may be killed by poisoned wheat or by pouring carbon bisulphide down their burrows. Where mice are especially trouble- some, a compost of leaves, sawdust, lawn rakings, etc., should be used, inasmuch as heavy litter or one containing grain is ideal for attracting animals. Perennials such as lilies, whose crowns are completely under- ground, require the greatest protection. Perennials such as primroses 88 THE COMPLETE GARDEN and foxgloves, which carry over some fleshy foliage, must be covered lightly, if at all, to prevent rotting of the crowns. It is desirable to leave dead tops, stalks, etc., on the plants until spring. The tops will protect the plants to some extent over winter and there is also less danger to the plant from premature removal of tops in the fall before the latter are entirely dead. Cultivation should cease in the fall after danger from weed seeds maturing is past. This will discourage too late growth, and any weeds will serve as a protective covering. It is important that mulch for perennial gardens should not be applied too early. There is a great danger in applying a litter of straw manure or leaves before the warm weather is fully over, and thus encouraging top growth which either rots during the winter or is frozen. Mulch should not be applied until after the first heavy frosts, and preferably not until the ground is slightly frozen in the early winter. The tufted pansy, primrose, and Shasta daisy are very susceptible to injury from a heavy mulch. Mulch should not be removed until danger from extreme weather is past. The time for removal is governed by local conditions. The mulch should be removed gradually—not all at once—and extreme care should be used in removal in order not to injure or destroy smaller. plants or plants which appear late in the spring. Any mulch has a tendency to delay the spring development of the roots. It should be removed, however, before the ground has become so warm that root growth has become definitely encouraged and the sprouts which are starting to grow are becoming weak and spindly. DivipInc PERENNIALS, AND RENOVATING Beps. ‘There are some perennials which are benefited by being allowed to remain permanently in one place, such as peonies, gas plants, and bleeding-heart, but the vast majority of plants are not likely to improve unless taken up from time to time, divided, and reset. ‘This is especially true of plants like the iris and the sneeze-weed which spread underground and form mats, soon exhaust soil fertility, and engage in a severe struggle which ham- pers their ornamental development. Likewise, crowns of perennials which give the most desirable flowers bloom only two or three seasons and then die. There is also the necessity for renewing the biennials such as foxgloves, canterbury bells, hollyhocks, and sweet williams. Some perennials such as oriental poppies should not be moved but may be divided with a sharp trowel. The general practice is to - MAINTENANCE 89 lift and divide the roots of perennials every two or three years. Spreading and shallow-rooted perennials will thrive and flower much better if divided and transplanted each year. If this “dividing” is not undertaken each year the ‘‘clumps”’ become crowded and the individu- al flowering stocks do not have an opportunity to develop normally. The result is that many dead stocks remain in the middle of the clump and a much inferior type of flower is produced. Illustrations of this group of perennials which should be divided each season and preferably during the early spring before growth begins are the hardy asters, the sneeze-weed, yellow marguerite, ball of snow, English daisy, and the pompom chrysanthemum. If these plants are not taken up, divided, and replanted in good rich soil, the plants during the succeeding year will not produce large flowering heads, neither will they produce the strong, vigorous growth which they are accustomed to produce. Most of these plants are vigorous growers and heavy feeders and it does not take them long to sap from the soil much of the good food matter which is so necessary to their normal growth. The plume poppy, Shasta daisy, and yellow marguerite will be surrounded by a large number of young plants, which spread out and surround the parent plant, with the result that a number of inferior plants occupy the space which should be occupied by only a few fine, thrifty specimens, providing the parent plants are not divided and transplanted each year. With the yellow marguerite especially, it is much better to discard the old roots and to preserve in the dividing only those roots which are the result of the previous year’s development as offshoots from the parent plant. Many times the seedlings that spring up around these plants are equally as preferable if trans- planted and given ample space to develop normally. In the group of plants which should be divided at least every two years are included a few of the more vigorous types of the garden phlox together with the boltonia and the bee-balm. There is a group of perennials which should be divided on the average of once every three years. They will not be benefited through the process of being divided at more frequent intervals. This list includes the common garden phlox, painted daisy, most types of the larkspur, the lily-of-the-valley, a few asters, and the hardy sun-flowers. The common impression with reference to the lily-of-the-valley is that it should not be divided or transplanted after the time of transplanting the original plants. Those persons who have had an intimate acquain- go THE COMPLETE GARDEN tance with the flowering habits of this plant state that it should be divided at least once every three years if an abundance of large blooms is to be obtained. Such plants as the larkspur should be divided with great care every three or four years and each division of this plant should be left with a good crown attached to which is a quantity of good fibrous root growth. The greatest success in dividing perennials will be attained with those plants whose roots can be readily pulled apart with no severe ruptures. Those plants which have heavy roots like the larkspur and some of the irises should be subdivided with much greater care. Biennials will renew themselves by seeding if the soil is not disturbed around them to any great extent. A few perennials such as the yellow marguerite and some of.the hardy asters will also renew themselves each year by seeds dropped from the parent plant. Every perennial garden is benefited by a thorough spading over at least once in three years. When a garden is filled with perennials the spading does not in general reach deep into the soil, nor does it cover the entire area. The best soil for these plants is one which is friable and not too compact. This is the reason for spading every two or three years. Plants may be dug up and separated by hand or thinned out in the beds by cutting with a clean, sharp spade or trowel and removing the excess plants. Replanting should be done in fresh soil if possible, or some new soil and bone meal would better be worked in. Care should be taken in the replanting that the crown of the plant is not smothered. It is equally fatal to the plant to be set too low or too high. Divide and replant in the spring those fall-blooming sorts which continue in full bloom until late in the season, such as chrysanthemums and ane- mones, and all fleshy-rooted plants except the peony. (For the peony and the iris in particular, and for planting perennials in general see Pages 39 and 47.) The best time of the year for lifting and separating perennials in general is probably the fall. The early-flowering peren- nials like some of the irises and the leopard’s bane should give the best result by dividing and transplanting shortly after they have completed their flowering period. One objection to fall planting, however, is that the smaller plants heave out if planted too late or are apt to get lost during mulching or in the “cleaning up” work of the spring. Plants with heavy tops or fleshy roots in general, except the iris and the peony, are more liable to rot if planted in the fall. If the planting of MAINTENANCE 91 them is done at this season it should be begun in the latter part of August, if possible. The regular mulching, so necessary for all plants set in the autumn, should not be forgotten when the winter comes on. During the summer a fine mulch of some sort may be kept on a per- ennial border to good advantage as it prevents loss of moisture, saves labour otherwise necessary in cultivating, stops spattering of mud over the leaves of smaller plants, and prevents baking of the soil after rains. FERTILIZING PERENNIALS AND ANNUALS. Perennials need a great deal of food and should have plant food to restore soil fertility. Such heavy feeders as phloxes and peonies should receive applications of bone meal and liquid manure. Such applications when the plants are in bud will frequently improve the size and quality of the flowers. Manure for fall mulching will also enrich the plants. The finer part can be worked into the beds during the spring, but care must be taken not to injure or destroy roots or smaller plants. Peonies and irises in general, like all plants with thick, fleshy roots or rootstocks, are sick- ened by manure. Bone meal is perfectly safe to use and is in every way the best fertilizer for them. On the other hand, the Japanese irises, with their fibrous roots, revel in cow manure. They, like iris longipetala, are indifferent to lime which to all other moisture-loving irises, with the exception of the spuria group, is objectionable. Beds must be kept entirely free from weeds until fall. Where mulch is not maintained around the plants cultivation should be kept up, especially after a rain, to prevent evaporation. In the development of the annual flower garden the soil should be thoroughly spaded over each spring and well pulverized. A good coating of well-rotted manure should be thoroughly spaded into the soil to a depth of four inches to eight inches. During the flowering season of these plants it may become necessary, on account of the lack of suf- ficient food, to supply some quick-acting fertilizer such as sheep manure or dried blood which will force their growth and assist greatly in developing larger and more abundant flowers. A slight sprinkling of sheep manure or dried blood around each of the plants will be sufficient. It may be advisable to repeat this fertilizing operation at intervals of three or four weeks during the flowering season. Nitrate of soda is sometimes used as a plant stimulant. It is much more dan- gerous, however, than either sheep manure or dried blood because an overdose is very apt to burn and injure the plants, 92 THE COMPLETE GARDEN WATERING OF PERENNIALS. Watering must be attended to, es- pecially during dry spells. One good soaking a week is much more valuable to plants than many light sprinklings which do not wet the soil to any appreciable depth. On sandy and very light soils it will be necessary to water thoroughly every day or every second day during the dryest part of the season. Where it is not possible to water all the plants thoroughly at one time, divide the beds into sections and water the various sections in rotation. Watering in the later afternoon or evening hours has a more lasting effect than during the hotter portion of the day. Watering can be overdone as it can be carried to the point where the soil becomes water-logged and will consequently sour. Too much superficial watering of open-ground plants induces surface rooting which is not satisfactory, as such plants do not have access to large stores of food, and consequently cannot with- stand drought successfully. ‘Transplanted perennials should be wat- ered thoroughly and left alone a few days till they become somewhat established. The statement is sometimes made that water from wells is too cold to be suited for watering plants, and also that such water often lacks chemicals which serve as plant food. On the contrary, successful gardeners often water plants at midday on hot summer days in order to gain the cooling effect of the water when it is most needed. It is also believed by some experienced observers that water falling on the soil reaches the soil temperature very quickly after being absorbed and in all but a negligible number of instances, before it reaches the roots of plants. With regard to the question of the amount of plant food contained in water from a deep-driven well as compared to the amount found in surface water such as that flowing in a creek or river there seems to be little reason to think that water from wells is lack- ing in plant food to such an extent as to make it less valuable than surface water. It is now agreed that surface water contains more solid matter in suspension while subterranean water has its load of solid mat- ter insolution. Therefore the plant food which occurs in water from a driven well differs from the plant food found in river water merely in being more likely to occur in solution rather than in suspension. The water which is taken from artesian wells is not always sterile and often contains nitrates in large quantities due to the reduction of the nitrates which occur in deep layers in the soil. When this water is used for irrigating the surface layer of the soil, the nitrifying bacteria MAINTENANCE 93 change the nitrites back to nitrates. In regions rich in humus, ground water often contains organic as well as inorganic matter. Well water may and often does contain plant food which is very valuable in the form of nitrates or ammonia. Removinc SEED Pops AND GENERAL Care. Summer care of perennials consists of removing seed stems and dead flowers. It is extremely important to remove dead flowers at once, as formation of seeds weakens a plant. And with many plants, such as the larkspur and foxglove, new flowers also will be produced if the old flowers are removed immediately after blooming. There is a considerable differ- ence of opinion concerning the general maintenance of the larkspur. Some persons think that the stock of this plant should be cut down to a height of four inches to six inches immediately after flowering, other persons feel that it should not be cut to a height of less than twelve inches to fifteen inches. The author’s personal experience has been that if these plants are cut back immediately after flowering to a height of four inches to six inches new shoots will be developed which will not attain the height of the original plant but will develop excellent flowers during the latter part of September. Support tall-growing plants with neat stakes. In thisclass are asters, boltonias, and larkspurs. Do not delay the staking until the plants have begun to fall over. Bare spaces among plants in a border should be filled with annuals, if necessary, as this will not only improve the general effect but help also to keep the ground shaded and cool, and provide bright spots of colour after the first flush of bloom among the perennials is over. Bare spaces may be filled by bringing in plants from a reserve garden where they may be held in pots. New varieties of perennials and biennials should be propagated and transplanted to the bed or border to replace plants that run out or begin to fail. Seedlings will spring up from many plants, such as anemones, marguerites, hollyhocks, and campanulas, when seed pods are allowed to form. Such plants can be used to fill up open spaces. DIsEASES OF PERENNIALS AND ConTrROL. Perennials, taken as a class, under fairly favourable conditions are not particularly susceptible to disease. In general, when diseases attack perennial plants, the safest thing to do is to throw them away. Aphis and minor insect troubles may be easily controlled by spraying. 94 THE COMPLETE GARDEN ‘Che following plants, if attacked by leaf spots or mildews, may be saved by fungicides (See Page 77): Alyssum (mildew). Anemone (root decay and rust). Destroy affected roots. Aquilegia (mildew and black spot). Campanula (red and brown rust). Keep away from pinus rigida. Chrysanthemum (leaf spot or powdery mildew). If rusted, plants should be destroyed. Convallaria (stem rot). Burn affected plants. Coreopsis (mildew). Delphinium (black spot on leaves). Remove and burn. Ferns (tip blight). Hollyhock (leaf spot). If attacked by rust or anthracnose destroy the plants. Iberis (club root). Use lime in soil. Papaver (mildew). Peony (stem rot, leaf spot, botyrides). Phlox (leaf spot and powdery mildew, and stem canker). Sedum (leaf spot). Thalictrum (red spot).. Veronica (leaf disease), (leaf spot). Violets (leaf spot and leaf blight). Root rot of violets and nematodes on the roots require soil treatment and sterilization. Bulb spot of irises should be treated by soaking the bulbs for one hour in formalin solution, consisting of one ounce in two gallons of water. Root rot which is found usually only in the midst of an old matted clump is overcome by breaking the rhizomes from the clump, cutting off the decay, and planting in new soil with a watering of potassium permanganate, only enough to make the water of light pink colour. MAINTENANCE OF Various Kinps oF GARDENS. No attempt should be made to develop a garden of any kind until a careful analysis has first been made concerning the probable cost for future maintenance. This applies equally as well to the extensive estate as it does to the detailed flower gardenand to the average residence property. Plants are growing things and require constant attention in greater or less degree varying with types of development, whether of extreme formality or extreme informality, intended to produce certain effects. Many require an extremely abnormal quantity of labour and others require a minimum of labour for their average maintenance, ~ MM Pirate XIV. The list of trees and shrubs which thrive in the congested city districts where soil conditions are poor and the air is polluted with smoke and dust, is limited to a few kinds, of which the tree-of-heaven, locust and catalpa are typical. (See page 119, group XI-A) Pirate XV. An interesting use of hedges to frame one side of the refined for- mal garden. Japanese quince on the left side of the walk, Japanese barberry against the right side accented with sheared retinosporas, and buttresses of Japanese quince and Amoor River privet on the extreme left against the vine- covered wall, form the features of this composition. (See page 124) MAINTENANCE 95 Wi.tp Garpen. Many people labour under the impression that the woodland wild garden demands very little, if any, attention on the maintenance end. The maintenance of a woodland wild garden is a problem, to those who really understand its development and success, of almost as much importance as the maintenance of the more re- fined formal garden. It matters not what the garden may be, either the woodland wild garden or the refined garden, undesirable weeds and grass will develop if it is not given the necessary attention and cultiva- tion. The wild garden cannot be cultivated as deep or as frequently as the refined flower garden. Not only must the owner ward against the development of weeds but he must watch carefully to be certain that those types of plants which are more vigorous growing or which seem to be best adapted to their particular location do not spread or unnecessarily crowd out certain other desirable plants less vigorous in their habit of growth and less apt to thrive in the competition to which they are subjected. There will be places in the wild garden where soil conditions are not exactly as they should be, and where soil should be renovated or manured and where additional leaf mold soil should be added. ANNUAL FLowER GARDEN. Careful and frequent attention must be devoted to the maintenance of annuals during the growing season and especially during the flowering season if the best success is to be ob- tained with this type of garden. Those annuals like the mid-season and late asters need only normal care. Such plants have but one flowering season and it is rare that any secondary flowers are de- veloped on these plants through intelligent cutting, as is the case especially with the snapdragons and also with calendulas, marigolds, and pansies. The snapdragon perhaps is one of the most valuable flowering annuals for a long period of bloom. It will begin its bloom in late June or early July and will continue to bloom until frost retards its growth. Such plants however, will not produce an abundance of fine flowers if encouraged to persistently produce flowers throughout the entire growing season. The snapdragon will produce the best flowers if given a rest during some part of the summer. For instance, plants which begin flowering in late June or early July should be permitted to flower for four or five weeks. They should then be severely cut back to a height of four inches to six inches and a new growth permitted to develop and produce flowers during late August and September. 96 THE COMPLETE GARDEN The one most important duty in the successful growing of annual flowering plants, in order to continue their period of bloom, is to keep all portions of the plant from developing seed pods. ‘Those branches which have produced flowers should be removed as soon as the bloom has ceased. Most of the annuals like the calendulas and marigolds are encouraged to produce more bloom through this process of keeping seed pods removed and the branches severely cut back. Other annuals like the annual larkspur, the matricaria, the annual baby’s- breath, and the bachelor button will not develop a secondary growth, and must therefore be planted in successive sowings to secure a con- tinuous supply of flowers. REFINED ForMAL GARDEN. The refined formal garden is developed through the use of various types of perennials and annuals. The same rules apply to the general maintenance of a garden of this kind that apply to the general maintenance of perennials and annuals. ‘This type of garden however, unlike the other types of gardens, rock garden, wild garden, informal garden, etc., should, if developed, be perfectly maintained. A formal flower garden for its real success depends upon well-defined masses and definite major and minor axis lines. Extreme care should be devoted to the clipping of all hedges and the maintenance of the outlines of the definite masses of plants. All turf borders and walks should be neatly trimmed and carefully edged and little if any of the informal loose effect, so common to the informal garden and to the wild garden, should be permitted. The author attempts to discuss this question together with the question of maintenance pertaining to the other types of gardens in order to make clear that in the selection of the plants in landscape work the item of subsequent maintenance is one of the important factors in the success- ful development of the formal flower garden to an even greater extent than in other types of gardens. INFORMAL FLOWER GaRDEN. The informal flower garden requires less maintenance care than the formal flower garden. It is not so essential that the masses of plants and the outline of walks should be as carefully defined. There is no garden, not even the wild garden, that does not require constant attention for the best results. The same questions of maintenance apply to the informal garden in the same way that they do to the maintenance of perennials and annuals. The MAINTENANCE 97 only point which the author wishes to make clear is that from the very informal nature of the garden the question of maintenance cost is not as great as the maintenance cost of the formal garden. Rock GarpEN. Many persons labour under the impression that the rock garden does not require constant attention. To successfully develop a rock garden planting requires more thorough knowledge of plants than the development of the refined flower garden or the informal garden. The reason for this is that those plants which succeed in the rock garden development are much more uncommon than the plants which succeed in other types of gardens and less oppor- tunity is afforded for intelligent study of their habits of growth and flowering characteristics. The rock garden, like the wild garden, is often thought of as a garden in which plants enter into a competition for “the survival of the fittest.’’ Quite to the contrary, intelligent maintenance must be applied in order to eventually develop the plan as originally intended. Most of the plants adapted to the rock garden are the dwarf, slow-growing types which continue to become larger from year to year. They must be kept within bounds by intelli- gent pruning which will not destroy their effect. Occasionally many plants are introduced into the rock garden planting which require much more attention on account of the water which is necessary for their normal growth. A rock garden is not a garden from which flowers are to be picked. The period of bloom is usually the period when the plant is most valuable for its effect in the garden and the flowers should not be removed at that time. Cutrinc GARDEN. The cutting garden is perhaps the most simple garden and the easiest garden to maintain. ‘The only problem of such a garden is to provide easy access to plants placed in definite rows with sufficient space for easy cultivation. In a garden of this kind plants are permitted their freedom of growth and the object is to feed them heavily with fertilizer in order to produce the most desirable flowers which are to be cut at a time when the plants are at their height of bloom. The problem of maintenance is one of supplying sufficient fertilizer to keep the flowers growing vigorously, of cultivating them frequently, and watering freely. Rose GarpvEN. The object of the average rose garden is to produce an abundance of bloom and to produce large individual flowers. The 98 THE COMPLETE GARDEN rose garden for the best success of the plants requires careful main- tenance. The hybrid roses, which are usually grafted stock, revert quickly to the original type if suckers are allowed to develop and not kept within control. The rose garden beds should be kept clean of other plants unless provided with English tufted pansies or por- tulaca. If the rose garden is a part of some formal garden develop- ment and the beds are edged with any small hedge or edging plant such as the alyssum, then extreme care should be exercised to be certain that these plants are kept neatly trimmed and within definite bounds. One of the important problems in the maintenance of the rose garden is that of knowing the different types of hybrids and how these plants should be pruned in order to encourage the production of more flowers or of larger flowers. This question is too extensive to be discussed in the short space available, but there are numerous books which discuss at length the development and care of the rose garden. FerTILiziInG Roses.’ When rose garden beds have been properly prepared by the introduction of plant food in the form of manure, bone, and lime, all that remains to be done in the way of fertilization may be easily attended to by top-dressing from time to time. Liquid manure should never be given in dry weather without first thoroughly wetting the soil with plain water, but it may be used at frequent inter- vals provided it is not too strong. Dried blood may be used either in water or dry at the rate of one ounce to the square yard during May, June, and July if hoed well into the surface soil. Wood ashes and bone meal in small quantities may be used in a similar manner after growth starts. These dry fertilizers should be used only just before a good rain or should be followed by a thorough soaking with the hose. Watt Garpen. The wall garden is perhaps one of the most inter- esting types of gardens. A wall garden should never be attempted unless those responsible for its maintenance feel certain that the proper kind of intelligent maintenance care can be devoted to such a garden. A list of plants which are adapted for producing wall garden effects is small. It is not so much the question of quantity of main- tenance as it is the question of the degree of intelligent maintenance which makes for the failure or success of the wall garden. The greatest success is attained with wall garden development when those responsible for its maintenance make it a special point to thors MAINTENANCE 99 oughly familiarize themselves with the growing habits and the re- quirements of wall garden plants. If this is not done the garden is very apt to deteriorate into a normal type of garden with a few persistent weeds of various kinds and some of the more common and easily growing annuals like alyssum growing from the crevices of the rocks. WaTER GarDEN. The water garden is the one garden which re- quires less attention than any other garden when it is once correctly developed. The main problem is that of keeping a supply of water which is in no degree stagnant and in knowing the requirements for the fertilizing of aquatic plants to produce the best development. (See Page 220). CHAPTER VIII WINTER PROTECTION AND MULCHING REASONS FOR WINTER Protection. Winter protection 1s necessary under the following conditions: First—When a plant is removed from its natural habitat to one more severe; Second—When plants are not sufficiently hardy to withstand the new climatic conditions or ex- posures; Third—When it is desirable to retain ground moisture during the winter for planting on exposed places, mounds and banks. Fourth —When plants (especially evergreens) are transplanted into a stiff clay soil under climatic conditions where they will be subjected to consider- able freezing and thawing and it becomes necessary to protect them against heaving; Fifth—When plants, especially rhododendrons and other evergreens, must be protected against wind and sun which cause so much damage on account of excessive evaporation of moisture from the leaves at a time when no moisture is being taken into the plant through the root system. Continued, steady cold and a permanent covering of snow are generally sufficient to tide a plant through the severest part of winter, but an open winter, followed by severe cold, or the alternate freezing and thawing in spring, will work havoc. Mulching, therefore, is equally important, not only to control sudden changes in temperature in extreme weather, but also to maintain a cool, even temperature in early spring. One of the common impressions in connection with mulching for purposes of winter protection is that plants are really being pro- tected against extreme cold. Nothing could be farther from the truth. It is not possible to protect plants against freezing conditions, especially during the cold winters of our north when frost enters the soil to a depth of two to three feet. Under such conditions no normal depth of mulch consisting of rotted leaves or manure could keep frost out of the soil surrounding the roots of the plants. The real reason then is a different reason from that of being a desire to ward off a freezing condition. It is the desire not of warding off the cold but of preventing abnormal evaporation of moisture from the 100 WINTER PROTECTION AND MULCHING IOI leaves and especially from the lower part of such plants as the roses which are particularly sensitive to this type of evaporation. It is for this reason that plants which do not have well-ripened wood like the golden bell and certain varieties of the deutzia are subject to injury be- cause of this evaporation. Other plants like the bush honeysuckle and lilacs which succeed in developing thoroughly ripened wood before winter approaches do not suffer so much. There are two important sources of injury (outside of the gnawing by animals) which can cause plants to be injured during the winter months and as a protection against which mulching is necessary. The first is abnormal evapora- tion from the roots and stems of plants that are in exposed situations, and the second a liability of being heaved from the ground where a clay loam soil is subjected to violent changes of freezing and thawing. It is for this same reason that standard roses and climbing roses are frequently lost during the winter months because they are protected by a thin covering of straw, and evaporation is allowed to continue, when, in reality, they should be taken down and buried in soil which remains moist throughout the winter months and thus protects the stems against evaporation. Sources OF WINTER INJURY, AND REMEDIES. One source of winter injury is a heaving in clayey soils which exposes roots of small and newly transplanted plants. This may be remedied by applying a ground mulch of straw litter or manure over the entire area immediately around the trees and covering the area of root growth. Another source is pre- mature activity of the sap, due to the warmth of the sun’s rays. If the ground is frozen hard and deep, and sun and severe winds strike ever- green plants they will “scorch” or dry out because sap cannot flow from the roots to take the place of that evaporated. Many evergreens which are exposed to severe winter conditions are in reality killed during the months of January and February; but the damage done does not be- come evident until time for spring growth to begin during the months of April and early May. If the evergreens which have been killed during the winter months in the nursery are dug and shipped to owners of estates at a time prior to spring growth and prior to a time when it is possible for a nurseryman to determine whether or not the plant is ina normal growing condition, plants killed in this manner (because of the lack of winter protection) do not show the injury until the growing season, at which time, with the beginning of warm growing weather, the 102 THE COMPLETE GARDEN leaves turn brown. Conditions of this kind often follow a severe winter. During a severe winter in which successive freezing and thaw- ing conditions are a common occurrence evergreens are apt to be seriously damaged. Under such conditions it is the heat which causes the worst injury to the evergreens during these winter months and, as commonly believed, this is not injury due to excessive cold. A suc- cession of extremely cold nights and warm thawing conditions during the day causes excessive evaporation from the leaves which, as hereto- fore mentioned, cannot be replaced through the dormant root system, the soil surrounding which has not been sufficiently warmed to excite growth. This evaporation may be stopped by shelter fences or by wrapping the plants with straw “overcoats.” Care should be taken, however, to avoid wrapping too tightly, or injury to the plant will result from heating of foliage. Boxwood hedges also, particularly when young, should be covered to prevent winter injury in sections of the country where the temperature may fall as low as zero during the winter months. Such hedges may be boxed, or they may be banked with cornstalks or coarse litter and also with evergreen boughs. One of the best protections for boxwood hedges (as well as broad-leaved evergreens) is to be certain that they have a thorough soaking, especially during a dry fall, immediately before the freezing weather begins. Mice often injure plants, and where this occurs mulching should be delayed until cooler weather, when the rodents will have nested elsewhere. Poisoning may be resorted to by placing poisoned wheat in drain tiles among the mulch. Mice and rabbits will gnaw certain shrubs and fruit trees, such as quinces, spireas, forsythias, etc. Such plants should be protected, especially the first year, by tar paper or burlap if mice are present. Wrapping should begin slightly below the surface of the ground at the base of the tree, and extend to a height of two feet. The author is advised on good authority that where there is excessive danger that the base of certain shrubs and fruit trees will be gnawed by mice and rabbits, an excellent method of protection is that of mulching these hedges with coal ashes to a depth of three to four inches around the immediate base of the plant. The gritty condition of this material is evidently objectionable to rabbits and mice and its use has saved a number of valuable hedge plants. PERENNIALS—WINTER PROTECTION OF. Perennials should have a good mulch of well-rotted manure, straw, leaves, etc., applied just be- WINTER PROTECTION AND MULCHING 103 fore freezing weather, in a late fall, and at the beginning of freezing weather in an early fall. In reality, it is not as essential, as we often assume it to be, that perennial borders, regardless of the material they contain or the type of soil in which the perennials are planted, should be mulched during the winter months. There are hundreds of gardens which pass through the winter without any protection whatsoever being given to the plants. These gardens are not, however, those which are developed on clay loam soil. The general feeling is that plants are mulched and given this winter protection because otherwise they would not be hardy. Quite to the contrary, most of these per- ennials are hardy, and as a matter of fact it is rarely possible that any amount of mulching such as is ordinarily provided for the garden can make any perennial hardy which is not by nature perfectly hardy in the climatic and exposed condition where it is growing. Every person who is responsible for the mulching of a perennial garden should use only a loose texture of material for mulching purposes. When mulching perennials place stakes beside small plants and those which begin growth late in the spring. This will prevent any loss when the mulch is spaded in or removed in the spring. Perennials with persistent leaves should not be mulched with anything which will mat down. This applies to foxgloves, hollyhocks, sweet williams, and violas. Cornstalks and leaves which drop late are best for such a mulch. Boxes filled with leaves may be inverted over plants; but when this is done the top should be watertight or damage may follow. Some tender plants such as pansies and snapdragons may be carried over the winter if a heavy mulch is applied before freezing weather appears. Bugs AnD LitigEs—WINTER PROTECTION oF. Eremurus and the tenderest lilies should be protected by a mound of ashes which will help shed water and retain an even temperature. All bulbs should be mulched with leaves, manure, or litter. If bulbs are planted in the heavier types of soil it is quite necessary to cover the crown with a good mulch which will maintain in the ground a more even temperature and will lessen the possibility of injury to the bulbs because of sudden fluctuations of temperature (freezing and thawing conditions), which cause heaving of the soil. It should be borne in mind that bulbs start growth very early in the spring. If the mulch is left on the sur- face of the ground until after the bulbs have started growth, especially in a sunny exposure, then the bulbs become spindly and strong plants 104 THE COMPLETE GARDEN and flowers do not develop. In the planting of crocuses late in the fall it is advisable to cover the ground immediately with some fresh straw manure which will keep the temperature of the ground from be- coming too cold until after the bulbs have developed slight root growth. VINES—WINTER PROTECTION OF. Vines and various climbers, such as climbing roses or trained fruit trees, when growing against a southern or western wall, should be protected by burlap from the winter and early spring sun, which may cause growth to start too soon. Very tender vines, such as jasmine and some clematises and roses, can best be taken down and buried, especially where local climatic conditions or exposures are severe. When plants are so treated they should be allowed to lie on the ground for ten days or two weeks after they have been uncovered in the spring. This allows the canes time to harden-off. RosEs—WINTER PRorecTION oF. Hybrid Teas and Hybrid Perpet- uals in most winters can be safely carried over by hilling up the soil about the plants to a height of six or eight inches, thus covering the lowest six buds, and then covering the plants with hardwood leaves eighteen to twenty-four inches deep. The leaves should be held in place with cornstalks or brush to prevent their being blown away. A three or four inch blanket of stable manure may be applied before the leaves are used and a windbreak of boughs of pine or fir trees, or cornstalks may be substituted for the leaves if manure is used. Cul- tivation should be stopped in September to discourage late growth, but the plants should be thoroughly soaked with water in October, just be- fore hilling them up. This protection should be removed piecemeal in the spring, to gradually harden-off the plants. Standard roses may be protected by laying them on the ground and treating them as tender vines. ‘This is the most satisfactory method. They may also be wrapped with straw and burlap, or boxed, with a filling of leaves within the box. The safest method in severe exposures is that of burying them. RHODODENDRONS—WINTER PROTECTION OF. Rhododendrons, other broad-leaved evergreens and, to a certain extent, all other ever- greens, are apt to be scalded in winter by the morning sun shining through the coating of ice or snow upon the leaves, unless they are WINTER PROTECTION AND MULCHING 105 shielded. They should be mulched also during both winter and summer. The mulching of rhododendrons for summer is done for the purpose of providing a thin layer of leaf mold which will produce as nearly as possible the natural conditions of the undisturbed soil in the woods and fields where rhododendrons grow. Mulching for winter protection is effected by banking the plants with a deep layer of leaves. These leaves prevent excessive freezing and possible heaving of the soil around the roots. Rhododendrons are further protected by building a screen of evergreen boughs or of cornstalks entirely around the plantation, but especially on the exposed side. A portion of the leaves used in the winter mulch can be left when the mulch is removed in the spring. Under no conditions should an attempt be made to spade this mulch of leaves into the ground in the spring. It may be loosened slightly with a fork, but because this plant has its roots so near the surface the ground around the roots, below the natural surface, should not be disturbed. TREES AND SHRUBS—WINTER PROTECTION OF. When mulching trees care should be taken to extend the mulch out as far as the roots extend, or at least as far as the ends of the branches extend. Most of the Japanese flowering peaches, cherries, etc., need a four-inch root mulch every winter in severe climates. Boxbushes, many other ever- greens, and some deciduous material should be tied in winter. This is done to keep the plant from splitting under the weight of the heavy snows. Bands of rye straw or burlap are better than string for tying. Shrubs and trees when planted in groups or plantations, being thus close together, will protect each other to a considerable extent. When plants are of doubtful hardiness, screens may be erected for protection on the most exposed sides, or completely surrounding the plants. Such screens may be made of poles to which is attached brush or burlap. Another method is to make a screen of boards. Screens are frequently used to protect evergreens, trees, and shrubs. A shed without sides also may be constructed over such plantings. This is done to avoid loss by drip from buildings, or breakage from the weight of snow. Shrubs may be wrapped with straw or burlap, the covering being bound with raffia or twine. A pole is usually placed inside the wrapping to prevent the plant from bending or breaking. It is pref- erable, however, to plant more hardy types of material, because screens are extremely unsightly unless the plants are in an obscure location. 106 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Lawns—Mutcuinc or. After the first year it is generally not necessary to protect lawns in winter. If a mulch is desired use straw or well-rotted manure old enough so that there is no danger from weed seeds. In the spring the coarse manure should be removed and the finer portions pressed in with a heavy roller. Heavy, coarse manure is apt to suffocate the growing grass and leave bare spots on the lawn. GENERAL ConpiTions. Fall-planted material, especially perennials, and in the heavier soils, should be well protected during the first winter with a mulch of strawy manure or hardwood leaves. Compact or fresh manures should be avoided. Fresh manures, free from straw, will burn the plants, and compact manures will cause decay and fermentation, due to lack of aeration. A good strawy manure should be used. In the spring the litter may be removed, and the finer portions of the mulch spaded into the beds. When leaves are used, provision must be made to prevent them from blowing away. Boards, branches, or wire netting can be used for this purpose. Mulch- ing, applied very early, may be harmful by reason of encouraging late root action and top growth. Therefore, it is always advisable to delay root mulching until, after several light freezes, a crust has formed on the ground. Evergreen boughs, when procurable, make an ex- cellent protective covering. After a dry fall most plants, except some perennials, are benefited by being thoroughly soaked with water before freezing weather occurs. ‘This is especially true of conifers and broad- leaved evergreens. Cultivation in shrub and perennial beds can be stopped as soon as danger from weeds maturing their seeds is over. This will furnish some protection and will also discourage late growth of plants. iy) i ef Me x ee nics NLA ’ ies uo *> vt Ee cy PARI EY _ LISTS FOR REFERENCE CHAPTER Ix EVERGREENS THE variation in adaptation of evergreens has come to be a much- debated question among horticulturists and landscape architects who are called upon to use them. An interesting fact is discovered after some study of evergreens. The hardy types are not perfectly hardy under the varying conditions of climate and exposure in various sections of the country. Therefore, evergreens should be selected for landscape plantings with a considerable knowledge of their ability to withstand local conditions. The factors which are evidently most injurious to the normal development of evergreens as a group are: (1) sudden variations in climatic conditions; (2) condition of the soil; (3) exposure; and (4) atmospheric conditions in the vicinity of congested city districts. A short discussion of these factors, as bearing upon the growth of ever- greens, may be of value. 1. Cxrmatic ConpiTions. It is a safe assumption that evergreens which are indigenous to sections of country where the climatic condi- tions are severe will withstand similar conditions in any other section of the country unless the other factors, of soil, exposure, and atmo- spheric conditions are extremely adverse. An interesting fact is seen in the repeated endeavour to acclimate evergreens, which otherwise are hardy, to the sudden changes of temperature experienced along the shores of the Great Lakes. Evergreens which are perfectly hardy in the severe climate of New York State and New England, and even in Michigan, will not prove hardy when used close to the shores of the Great Lakes. While no one has given a definite reason for this, it is presumed that the sudden changes of climatic condition are responsible for the failure of many plants. In general, in the selection of ever- greens, the more tender varieties should not be far removed from climatic conditions in which they are known to be perfectly hardy, 109 18 (e) THE COMPLETE GARDEN unless the person using such plants expects the inevitable loss which will be experienced during a very severe winter. 2. CONDITION OF THE Sort. The question of soil conditions with reference to the planting of evergreens is more important in the clayey sections of the Middle West than in most of the other sections of the country. In the northern portions of the Middle West this is not so evident, because the summer months are not as hot and dry as they are farther south. Even the more hardy evergreens will not withstand the stiff clay conditions of the Middle West during the hot summer months, at which times this clay bakes very hard. Ever- greens, to be grown most successfully, should be planted in a loose, sandy-loam or clay-loam soil, and should not be planted directly in a soil the predominating portion of which is clay. Therefore the soil conditions should be examined closely before it is definitely decided to use evergreens, and the list of evergreens shown under [X-B are those which are most hardy and best adapted to the climatic conditions and soil conditions of the Middle West, as proven by years of experience and careful observation. 3. Exposure. If the more tender types of evergreens which do not normally grow under the most severe climatic conditions are selected for use in a section where the climatic conditions are severe, then such plants should be so located that the exposure from the prevailing winds of winter is greatly reduced. It is possible to use most of the evergreens shown in Group [X-A in any section of the country, provided a proper exposure is selected and the proper winter protection is given. Many times this is impracticable, because evergreens are selected to be of equal value during the winter months and during the summer months. There is no windbreak or screen as yet developed for the protection of evergreens against exposure which in itself does not detract to a great extent from the beauty of these plantations during a period of the year when their foliage should be most effective. 4. ATMOSPHERIC ConpiITIONS. Many evergreens are used in the vicinity of our congested city districts, or in locations where the prevailing winds surround them with an atmosphere polluted with dust, smoke, and gases, all of which are very injurious to most ever- greens. Only the most hardy evergreens should be used under such conditions, and in order to keep them in a normal growing condition (e-y-[[X Anos ‘€z1 a8ed 99g) = *193UTM UT UOTQDa30I1d pu “SuIUNId [NgT[PYs Jo AqusTd UoArs FI aspoy MO] [PULIOF AIOA & pue Jovduiod & sv poulejUleUl aq Uvd ‘991 [[RUIS & Ayjeanjeu ‘ssoid Ad ayT-owNyg “TAX alvig (D-1TX Anois ‘Sz1 a8ed aag) = *poutejae osye uorsnjoes pue IUIOIIIAO 9q 3snu MOUS SulyjlIp TIAITIYM pieyoto IO uapies IY} fo uoi99}01d 9} 10f SIOTIIeEG pue SYLIIQPUIM S9q 9 jo 9uo SUITOF *poeysi[qeisa ][o™ udyM pue pges ulOYI1OU 94} Woy UMOI3 udyM *yooyuoy uvIpeurr) IFUL TAX SLV 1d 9G. 4 so Pirate XVIII. Upon a spacious lawn effective use can occasionally be made of trees and shrubs possessing symmetrical habits of growth and fine flowering and fruiting qualities. The deutzia is a shrub with these capabil- ities; but it is seldom seen as a specimen plant. Restraint, however, must be observed and a dotted effect avoided. (See chapter XIV) (££1 aded 9ag) *saaa3 Uautoads auy Ano Jo Auew jo Ayneaq [einjeu aya Aeydsip 03 Aqunqioddo siayo osye HW pure ‘oanjord ay} 02 INofoD pue ajeos pus] 0} saatq uatutdads sosInba1 uaqjo vaie UME] papuaixe 94], “XTX ILVIg EVERGREENS IIl it is essential during the cooler hours of the day, and at frequent in- tervals, to spray these plants to wash off much of the soot which col- lects from the atmosphere. While the leaves of evergreens are heavily covered with a layer of cuticle, the breathing pores are very susceptible to clogging from the dust of a polluted city atmosphere. So much for the discussion of the adaptation of evergreens to these conditions. A list of evergreens is shown in Group IX-C, found through experience to be not generally recommended for use in the Middle West. Another condition often arises in the use of evergreens. Material is desired for undergrowth planting in shady wooded areas. There are very few kinds of evergreens which will produce anything like their normal density of foliage where they are deprived of a great portion of sunlight. This group of material is shown in Group [X-D. It is often necessary to use groups of low-growing and refined types of evergreens to provide mass effects on private lawns and about residences, to be of value during the winter and summer months. A list of evergreens available and adapted to this use has been generally outlined. They must be of the more slow-growing types if over- crowding within the first two or three years after transplanting is to be avoided. LIST OF EVERGREENS A. Most. Harpy. This group contains types of evergreens selected for general use under widely varied conditions throughout the northeastern section of the United States. Abies brachyphylla Juniperus horizontalis douglast Nikko Fir Waukegan Juniper Abies concolor Juniperus sabina White Fir Savin Juniper Abies veitcht Juniperus scopulorum Veitch’s Silver Fir Rocky Mountain Silver Cedar Chamaecyparts obtusa Juniperus virginiana Japanese Cypress Red Cedar Juniperus chinensis pfitzeriana Juniperus virginiana cannarti Pfitzer’s Juniper Columnar Tufted Cedar Juniperus communis Juniperus virginiana schotti Common Juniper Schott’s Red Cedar Juniperus communis aurea Picea alba Golden Juniper White Spruce Juniperus excelsa stricta Picea alcockiana Slender Greek Juniper Alcock’s Spruce Juniperus horizontalis Picea engelmanni Trailing Juniper Engelmann’s Spruce 112 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Picea excelsa (in variety) Norway Spruce Picea omortka Servian Spruce Picea pungens Colorado Spruce Pinus cembra Swiss Stone Pine Pinus densiflora umbraculifera Dwarf Japanese Red Pine Pinus montana mughus Dwarf Mountain Pine Pinus nigra austriaca Austrian Pine Pinus resinosa Red Pine Pinus strobus White Pine Pinus sylvestris Scotch Pine Pseudotsuga douglasi (Colorado Form) Douglas Fir . Sciadopitys verticillata Umbrella Pine Taxus baccata repandens Spreading English Yew Taxus canadensis Ground Yew Taxus cuspidata Japanese Yew Taxus cuspidata brevifolia Short-leaved Japanese Yew Thuja occidentalis aurea George Peabody’s Golden Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis douglasi Douglas’ Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis globosa Globe Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis (Little Gem) Little Gem Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis plicata Tall Pointed Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis pyramidalis Pyramidal Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis rosenthali Rosenthal’s Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis verveneana Vervaene’s Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis wareana Siberian Arborvitae Tsuga canadensis Canadian Hemlock Tsuga caroliniana Carolina Hemlock B. Best ApapTeD FoR Use 1n Mip-West. This group of ever- greens will withstand climatic and soil conditions of the mid-west, especially throughout Ohio, and under average exposure these types will develop normally in the suburban and country districts. Abies brachyphylla Nikko Fir Abies concolor White Fir Abies veitcht Veitch’s Silver Fir Chamaecyparis obtusa Japanese Cypress Chamaecyparis pisifera filifera Thread-branched Cypress Chamaecyparts pistfera squarrosa Veitch’s Silver Cypress Juniperus (in variety) Juniper Picea alba (north only) White Spruce Picea alcockiana Alcock’s Spruce Picea engelmanni Engelmann’s Spruce Picea excelsa (in variety) Norway Spruce Picea omorika Servian Spruce Picea pungens glauca Koster’s Blue Spruce Pinus cembra Swiss Stone Pine Pinus montana mughus Dwarf Mountain Pine Pinus nigra austriaca Austrian Pine Pinus resinosa Red Pine Pinus strobus White Pine Pinus sylvestris Scotch Pine Pseudotsuga douglast Douglas Fir Sctadopitys verticillata Umbrella Pine Taxus baccata repandens Spreading English Yew EVERGREENS 113 Taxus cuspidata brevifolia Short-leaved Japanese Yew Taxus cuspidata capitata Clustered Japanese Yew Thuja occidentalis (in variety) American Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis wareana Siberian Arborvitae Thuja orientalis (northern grown) Oriental Arborvitae Tsuga canadensis Canadian Hemlock Tsuga caroliniana Carolina Hemlock C. Nor ApaptTep For Use 1n Mip-West. Evergreens in this group should not be used in the amateur garden of this section. Ex- perience has shown that they have proven “treacherous” in their ability to thrive and also in their habit of growth under these peculiar climatic and soil conditions, to which they are not adapted. Abies balsamea Balsam Fir Abies frasert H Fraser’s Balsam Fir Abies nordmanniana Nordman’s Fir Cephalotaxus (in variety) False Yew Chamaecyparis lawsoniana Lawson’s Cypress Chamaecyparis pistfera Pea-fruited Cypress Chamaecyparis pistfera plumosa Plume-like Cypress Juniperus excelsa Greek Juniper Picea mariana Black Spruce Pinus banksiana Jack Pine Pinus jeffreyt Jeffrey’s Pine Pinus palustris Long-leaved Pine Pinus ponderosa Bull Pine Thujopsis dolobrata Japanese Arborvitae D. ApaprTep To PartTiAL SHADE IN WoopepD Areas. The group of evergreens which will develop normal foliage and normal, growth under partial shade in wooded areas is limited. The types in this group have proven the most satisfactory. Juniperus virginiana Red Cedar Pinus banksiana (for light soils) Jack Pine Pinus strobus White Pine Pseudotsuga douglast Douglas Fir Taxus canadensis Ground Yew Thuja occidentalis American Arborvitae Tsuga canadensis Canadian Hemlock 114 THE COMPLETE GARDEN E. Low-crowinc, Format Types. This group contains types of evergreens which are valuable for accent and for specimen purposes. They should be planted on the open lawn or where there is ample space for them to develop their natural habit of growth. Evergreens from this list, and the low-growing types of a more informal character from Groups [X-A and IX-B should be selected for the refined mass plantings of evergreens as illustrated in Figure 1 Plate XI. Abies concolor globosa (spherical) Globe White Fir Chamaecyparis obtusa nana (conical) Dwarf Japanese Cypress Chamaecyparis obtusa nana aurea (conical) Dwarf Golden Japanese Cypress Juniperu virginiana globosa (globose) Globe Red Cedar Picea excelsa clanbrasiliana (compact broad conical) Cone-shaped Norway Spruce Picea excelsa compacta (sub-globose) Compact Norway Spruce Picea excelsa gregoriana (sub-globose and _ _ compact) Gregory’s Dwarf Norway Spruce Picea excelsa nana (depressed sub-globose) Dwarf Norway Spruce Picea excelsa pygmaea (dense, pyramid) Dwarf Pyramidal Norway Spruce Picea excelsa tabulaeformis (low and flat) Tablet-shaped Norway Spruce Picea orientalis nana (low, broad pyramid) Dwarf Oriental Spruce Picea pungens compacta (dwarf conical) Dwarf Blue Spruce Pinus cembra compacta (dwarf conical) Dwarf Swiss Stone Pine Pinus densiflora umbraculifera tanyosha (vase form) Dwarf Japanese Red Pine Pinus koraiensis (dense, broad pyramid) Corean Pine Pinus montana mughus (globose) Dwarf Mountain Pine Pinus strobus umbraculifera (vase form) Bush White Pine Pinus strobus brevifolia (compact and round) Dwarf White Pine small Pinus sylvestris pumila (globose) Globe Scotch Pine Pseudotsuga douglasi globosa (globose) Globe Douglas Spruce Taxus baccata repandens (sub-globose) Spreading English Yew Taxus cuspidata densa (hemispherical) Dwarf Japanese Yew Thuja occidentalis compacta (globose) Compact Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis dumosa (dense dwarf) Dwarf Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis broad pyramid) Ellwanger’s Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis globosa (globose and very dwarf) : Globe Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis hoveyi (dense ovate) Hovey’s Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis (Little Gem) (flat ovate) Little Gem Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis nana (compact globose) Dwarf Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis pumila (dense dwarf) Dwarf Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis reidi (broad dwarf) Dwarf Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis wagneriana (globose) Dwarf Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis woodwardi (dense glo- ose) Woodward’s Dwarf Arborvitae Tsuga canadensis globosa (dense globose) Globe Hemlock Tsuga canadensis nana (depressed and spreading) Dwarf Hemlock Tsuga canadensis pendula (sargentr) (flat topped depressed) Sargent’s Weeping Hemlock ellwangeriana (low, CHAPTER X STREET AND AVENUE PLANTING Tuis is a broad subject and yet it has been well covered by numer- ous bulletins and books. There are a few important questions, how- ever, which should be decided very definitely in the minds of those who are selecting trees for use as street plantings. There is a group of trees most of the types of which are entirely hardy under all condi- tions. There is another group of trees which should seldom, if ever, be used on streets, and there is a third group of trees which possess some real value for street planting; but they should be selected only with a thorough knowledge of the conditions under which they are to be placed. In general, trees which are selected for street planting should be symmetrical in character, they should be long lived, and they should not be readily susceptible to injury from insects and smoke. | There is a certain group of trees specimens of which can be safely selected for street planting, either in city or suburban districts. This group comprises such trees as the sugar maple, red oak, European linden, and American elm, the last of which is best adapted to planting on narrow streets because of its high-headed characteristic of growth. Though it becomes very tall its vase-form enables it to reach above dwellings that may be not far back from the street and to leave open a vista down the street axis. The low, compact-headed types of trees, such as the sugar maple, pin oak, and the linden ought to be planted only on wide streets. While the use on narrow streets of such vase-shaped trees as the elm allows for an unobstructed vista, the use of such trees as the pin oak and linden, unless the lower branches are severely pruned, has a tendency to “choke up” and to obstruct the vista. A certain few trees should rarely, if ever, be used in street tree planting. This list comprises such trees as the horse chestnut, box elder, black locust, willows, birches, and poplars. Birches and locusts are too short lived. The horse-chestnut and the box elder are littering 115 116 THE COMPLETE GARDEN in their habit. The poplars are subject to disease as well as being short lived, and the willows are not adapted to shade tree purposes, even in their habit of growth. In spite of the fact that there are some excellent trees as shown in the first and second lists in this chapter, well adapted to street and avenue planting, and thoroughly tested through a period of years, yet many individuals responsible for the selection of these permanent assets or detriments to the public streets will still select trees such as those which are included in the third list of this chapter. Trees such as the maidenhair tree, tree of heaven, oriental plane, and pin oak should not be used for street tree planting without a thorough knowledge of the conditions under which they are to grow and the conditions to which they are best adapted. The pin oak and the maidenhair tree are tall, pyramidal trees, which should be used only on wide streets in a heavy soil, and the maidenhair tree should never be used for street and avenue planting except in the less severe climatic conditions. The tree of heaven has a vigorous habit of growth and is an excellent tree in the smoky, congested sections of our cities where shade trees are required. Before trees in this group are used some of the important bulletins and books on our city street trees should be consulted for further information. (See Bibliography.) Where an avenue is of such length that it passes through two or more radically different soil types care must be exercised or the trees on one soil will not grow as fast or luxuriantly as upon another soil. This will result in an avenue of uneven height and spread in the tops of the trees and thus spoil an otherwise successful planting. LIST OF TREES FOR STREET AND AVENUE PLANTING A. Trees Wuicu ArE ENTIRELY Harpy UNpER ALL ConpirTIONs. This group contains the standard types of shade trees which can be planted under almost any condition of climate or soil, with some degree of assurance that they will develop an interesting normal habit of growth. This list may be termed “the ten best trees for general use in street and avenue planting,” in city, suburban, and urban districts. Acer saccharum Quercus coccinea Sugar Maple Scarlet Oak Quercus alba Quercus rubra White Oak Red Oak STREET AND AVENUE PLANTING 117 Quercus velutina Tilia vulgaris Black Oak Common Linden Tilia euchlora Ulmus americana Crimean Linden American Elm Tilia tomentosa Ulmus glabra Silver Linden Scotch Elm B. Trees Wuich SHoutp Be SELEcTED WitTH a THOROUGH KNOWLEDGE OF THE ConpiITIONS UNDER Wuicu THey Are To BE Usep. Before trees in this group are used, descriptive information of these types should be consulted in order to know that the soil conditions, exposure, climate, and width of streets are such that these trees will meet the requirements and develop a normal growth. Acer platanotdes Liquidambar styraciflua Norway Maple Sweet Gum Ailanthus glandulosa Liriodendron tulipifera Tree of Heaven Tulip Tree Celtis occidentalis Platanus orientalis Nettle Tree Oriental Plane Fraxinus (in variety) Phellodendron amurense Ash Tree Chinese Cork Tree Ginkgo biloba Quercus palustris Maidenhair Tree Pin Oak Ulmus campestris English Elm C. Trees WHicH SHOULD SELDoM BE UseEp on StrreEETs. Many trees are selected for street planting, either because they are the easiest trees to grow or the tree which can be obtained with the least difficulty and expense. Such trees are a future liability to the community and they should never be planted except for some important reason, such as the impossibility of obtaining other types. They are adapted to specimen use rather than to street use. Acer saccharinum Gleditsta triacanthos Soft Maple Honey Locust Acer negundo Platanus occidentalis Box Elder American Plane Aesculus hippocastanum Populus eugenet Common Horse-chestnut Carolina Poplar Betula (in variety) Robinia pseudacacia Birch Black Locust Catalpa (in variety) Salix (in variety) Indian Bean Willow Sorbus aucuparia European Mountain Ash CHAPTER XI PLANTS FOR USE IN CONGESTED CITY DISTRICTS Tue effect of dust, smoke, and gas fumes upon vegetation is well known and yet no considerable amount of study has been given to this subject, largely because it has not been considered an eco- nomic question. Surely the people who are compelled to live in the congested districts of our large cities are as much entitled to shade and greenery as any one else, and there is no question but that the health- fulness of the congested districts is lowered by the absence of shade and grass. By the use of those plants which can survive drought, smoke, and abuse, some sort of trees or shrubbery may be had almost any- where, except perhaps in the immediate vicinity of a steel mill or similar factories, where not even grass will survive. The first trees one comes to on the edge of the treeless districts which surround large steel mills are usually ailanthus or willow. ‘The ailanthus is also the tree which most often appears in the closely built up sections of large cities, often providing the only greenery to be seen in whole sections of atown. Ashes, locusts, European planes, European lindens, and horse- chestnuts also seem to have the ability to withstand the summer droughts and the suffocating soot that proves disastrous to so many city trees. No rough-leaved tree nor one which requires much water should be used as a street tree in a congested, sooty district, because it is doomed beforehand to a lingering death, if it survives at all. Pin oaks and willows are useful only when they are assured of a reasonable supply of water during summer droughts. Among the shrubs such smooth-leaved, hardy sorts as the lilacs, privets, golden bells, buckthorns, and barberries seem to withstand the drawbacks of smoke, soot, and drought the best. Most of the coniferous evergreens have a hard time even existing in any closely built up town. The Colorado blue spruce, silver fir, Scotch pine, and dwarf mountain pine have withstood the soot and gas better than any others, and some recent experiments with the Carolina hemlock seem to show that it, too, will survive in the heart of a city, 118 PLANTS FOR CONGESTED CITY DISTRICTS 11g providing it receives a certain amount of care. The common arborvitae has generally proved a failure. The exact reason why conifers are so unsuccessful has not so far appeared. Their short life seems to be due to the accumulation of soot which clogs the pores of the leaves and slowly suffocates them. They transpire so much water also during the hot summer droughts that they need an excessive amount of moisture, and they need numerous showers or washings from the hose also to keep them clean and cool. As most evergreens grow- ing under city conditions do not get any care they rarely succeed, and when they do live, they lose their colour and are therefore not recom- mended. As a rule, native collected plants seldom or never succeed when taken directly into the congested city districts, and only those plants among the deciduous shrubs and trees which are smooth-leaved are to be recommended for trial. LIST OF PLANTS FOR USE IN CONGESTED CITY DISTRICTS A. Trees. This group contains trees which may be used with a great deal of certainty that they will thrive under city conditions of congestion and dusty atmosphere. Wherever possible, these trees, especially evergreens, should be thoroughly sprayed at frequent intervals to wash a considerable portion of the dust from the surface of the leaves. Abies concolor Pinus montana mughus White Fir Dwarf Mountain Pine Aesculus hippocastanum Pinus sylvestris Common Horse-chestnut Scotch Pine Ailanthus glandulosa Platanus orientalis Tree of Heaven Oriental Plane Celtis occidentalis (North only) Quercus palustris Nettle Tree Pin Oak Cercis canadensis Robinia pseudacacia Red-bud Black Locust Crataegus (in variety) Salix (in variety) horn Willow Fraxinus (in variety) Sophora japonica Ash Tree Japanese Pagoda Tree Ginkgo biloba Tilia europaea Maidenhair Tree European Linden Juniperus virginiana Tilia tomentosa Red Cedar Silver Linden Picea pungens Ulmus campesiris Colorado Spruce English Elm 120 THE COMPLETE GARDEN B. Suruss. In every city district the occupants of some homes desire shrubs in connection with their yards, which give a touch of nature to their places. The shrubs in this group have proven the most hardy under adverse city conditions and should be used as a basis for selecting types. Aralia spinosa Hercules’ Club Berberis thunbergt Thunberg’s Japanese Barberry Cornus (in variety) Dogwood Evonymus americanus Strawberry Bush Forsythia (in variety) Golden Bell Hibiscus syriacus Rose of Sharon Ligustrum (in variety) Privet Physocarpus opultfolius Ninebark Rhamnus (in variety) Buckthorn Spiraea (in variety) Spirea Symphoricarpos (in variety) Snowberry Syringa vulgaris Common Lilac Viburnum (in variety) Viburnum CHAPTER XII PLANTS FOR HEDGES Tue selection of plants for hedges forms one of the most interesting subjects in the study of use of plants. More often than for any other purpose trees and shrubs for hedges are selected either from an eco- nomic or an aesthetic point of view. It may be desired to have a hedge for its beauty, or it may be desired for the purpose of a screen, a windbreak, or as a definite barrier. Many times it is desirable in the development of hedge plantations, especially those which are more than the average height (three to four feet), to develop a hedge which will retain its foliage during the winter months. This may be desirable for two reasons: first, to provide a barrier and at the same time a screen against objectionable views and to secure privacy, and, second, to lend interest to a winter landscape because of the foliage effect. The only effective hedge barrier which holds its leaves during the winter is one composed of conifers. Broad- leaved evergreens are not desirable for this purpose; mainly because they are not sufficiently compact in their habit of growth to meet the requirements of a hedge, and they do not lend themselves to shearing. The evergreen hedge which is planted for the purpose of providing a complete screen, and requires a normal growth of the foliage, should seldom be planted in the heavy shade of large overhanging trees. Hedge plants which are selected as barriers or screens should be close growing and compact in habit. Many among them are thorny in char- acter, thus making passage through them very difficult. Hedges which are planted for barriers and which do not hold their leaves during the winter are usually valuable mostly for their summer effect. They are seldom planted for the purpose of a screen, for such a screen is desirable during the months of the year when the foliage is not present. Many flower gardens, especially large rose gardens, have been much enhanced from a landscape viewpoint by the presence of low-growing, compact hedges which accurately define the outline of the various beds 121 122 THE COMPLETE GARDEN and emphasize the main axial lines of the garden. There is a group of plants from which kinds are selected for hedge purposes, and which lend themselves to frequent clipping and shearing. These are most often used for edgings beside formal garden walks, pools, and beds of planting. The ideal hedge for this purpose is one which requires a very small amount of pruning in order to maintain its close, compact habit. It is therefore necessary to select plants for this purpose with a careful knowledge of the natural habits of growth of the mature plants and to use such plants for hedge purposes, rather than to endeavour by severe pruning to adapt larger growing types to such uses. Such hedges are usually maintained from six to twelve inches in height and should be planted at least twelve inches away from the edge of any garden walk in order to provide ample width for the hedge to spread as it matures. Hedges for the purpose of windbreaks and solid screens are composed almost entirely of trees which are more or less compact in their habit of growth and will continue to develop while planted in a crowded space. Considerable good judgment should be used in locating a windbreak which is likely to act as a snow trap also, because the great drift of snow which accumulates behind a large windbreak may prove a nuisance in the early spring by lying deeply on the ground long after the land under it should be thawed out and ready to use. This drift may also break down small and brittle trees and shrubs and do more damage than good. For this reason, on the open prairies of the Dakotas it is often found necessary to locate windbreaks as far as one hundred feet to the wind- ward of the buildings or road which are to be protected, because a strip approximately ten times its height is affected by a windbreak. This is shown by the snow lying drifted for this distance to the leeward after a heavy snowfall, accompanied by a driving wind. Some thirty years ago, L. H. Bailey gave the following rules for planting windbreaks (Garden and Forest Vol. 1, page 46). While primarily intended for orchardists they are well worth considering to-day by anyone who is going to do such planting on a large scale for ornamental purposes. (1). The windbreak should not obstruct atmospheric drainage. (2). The windbreak should never be dense enough to force the buds on fruit trees in those localities which are subject to late spring frosts. (3). Asa rule, in localities where atmospheric drainage will not be severely checked, the windbreak should have a comparatively dense bottom, formed by undergrowth or low-branched trees. (4). Native trees and shrubs are preferable for windbreaks. PLANTS FOR HEDGES 123 To these rules it might be added that, while a single row of plants is often desirable, it does not take care of the contingency that arises when one or more plants die. It is consequently preferable to plant two or more staggered rows of plants which thus do not require to be planted so closely and for that reason are more likely to survive a long while and retain their lower branches. It is possible to gain a good ornamental effect also by combining evergreen trees with harmonious deciduous ones, such as hemlock or spruce with birches and maples. This type of planting is often called a “shelter belt”’ and when a con- siderable number of evergreen trees are used a pleasing effect is secured the year round, and large numbers of birds will be found to be attracted and held, not only through the nesting season but sometimes all the year. Still another use for hedges is that of providing privacy. Most of the shrubs used in this group should be of the tall types, exceeding five feet in height, and should have a compact, heavy foliage. The natural growth of the shrubs should be close and they should hold their foliage during the late summer and early fall. Some of the shrubs which are best adapted for this purpose are the rose of Sharon, common buckthorn, and the European beech, the foliage of which does not develop until the latter part of the spring. It is often desirable to select plants which will serve as hedges in the bleak exposures of lake fronts and ocean shores, and also in the Cana- dian northwest. These plants should be hardy under all severe cli- matic conditions of the northeast and the Canadian northwest. Most of the plants which have been suggested for this group have been found growing normally under the most severe conditions of climate and exposure. LIST OF PLANTS FOR HEDGES A. Barriers. This group consists of types of plants which are compact in their habit of growth and some of which are thorny. They are excellent as barriers for two reasons: either because of their thorny character or because of their extremely close habit of growth. The first list (a) contains plants which hold their leaves during the winter months, and the second list (b) contains plants which do not hold their leaves during the winter months. a. Holding leaves during winter: Chamaecyparis pisifera plumosa Fagus syloatica Plume-like Cypress European Beech 124 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Mahonia aquifolium Oregon Grape Picea excelsa Norway Spruce Pyracantha coccinea lalandi Evergreen Thorn Thuja (in variety) Arborvitae Tsuga canadensis Canadian Hemlock b. Not holding leaves during winter: Acer campestre European Cork Maple Berberis thunbergi Thunberg’s Japanese Barberry Carpinus betulus European Hornbeam Chaenomeles japonica Japanese Quince Citrus trifoliata Hardy Orange Crataegus coccinea Scarlet-fruited Thorn Crataegus cordata Washington Thorn Crataegus crus-galli Cockspur Thorn Crataegus oxycantha May Thorn Fagus americana American Beech Gleditsia triacanthos Honey Locust Hippophae rhamnoides Sea Buckthorn Lonicera fragrantissima Early Fragrant Honeysuckle Maclura pomifera Osage Orange Prunus spinosa Black Thorn Rhamnus cathartica Common Buckthorn Rhamnus frangula (variety latifolia) Alder Buckthorn Rosa rugosa Japanese Rose B. Epcincs ror WALKs AND FOR GARDEN Borpers. The plants in this group are either dwarf in their habit of growth or can be pruned severely in order to keep them in a low, compact form. The average height at which these hedges may be maintained is eight inches to eighteen inches. Astilbe japonica Japanese Astilbe Azalea amoena Hardy Evergreen Azalea Berberis thunbergt Thunberg’s Japanese Barberry Buxus suffruticosa Dwarf Box Deutzia gracilis Slender Deutzia Ilex microphylla Small-leaved Holly Ilex glabra Inkberry Ligustrum ibota regelianum Regel’s Privet Philadelphus coronarius nanus Dwarf Mock Orange Philadelphus coronarius nanus aureus Golden Dwarf Mock Orange Pieris japonica Japanese Fetterbush Pyracantha coccinea lalandt Evergreen Thorn Rosa blanda Meadow Rose Rosa polyantha (in variety) Fairy Rose Spiraea bumalda anthony waterer Crimson Spirea Spiraea callosa alba Fortune’s White Spirea —————————— PLANTS FOR HEDGES 125 Thuja occidentalis ellwangeriana Ellwanger’s Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis globosa Globe Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis Tom Thumb or variety umbracultfera Tom Thumb Arborvitae Viburnum opulus nanum Dwarf Bush Cranberry C. WinpBREAKS AND Soiip Screens. Most of the trees and shrubs in this group are rapid growing and are entirely hardy under normal climatic conditions. They can be planted in close proximity to each other without injuring the individual specimens. This close plant- ing, however, renders all the trees useless in future specimen planting. Acer ginnala Siberian Maple Acer negundo Box Elder Acer saccharinum pyramidale Pyramidal Silver Maple Acer tataricum Tartarian Maple Carpinus caroliniana American Hornbeam Fagus americana American Beech Fagus sylvatica European Beech Juniperus virginiana Red Cedar Larix europaea European Larch Larix leptolepsts Japanese Larch Picea (in variety) Spruce Pinus resinosa Red Pine Pinus strobus White Pine Populus (in variety) Poplar Rhamnus caroliniana Carolina Buckthorn Salix (in variety) Willow Tsuga canadensis Canadian Hemlock Tsuga caroliniana Carolina Hemlock D. For Privacy. These types are selected because of their ability to develop a compact, heavy foliage effect and most of these types retain their foliage during the late summer and early fall months, Acer saccharinum pyramidale Pyramidal Silver Maple (low-branched) Cornus mas Cornelian Cherry Elaeagnus angustifolia Russian Olive Fagus sylvatica European Beech Forsythia intermedia Hybrid Golden Bell Forsythia viridissima Dark Green Golden Bell Hibiscus syriacus Rose of Sharon Ligustrum (in variety) Privet Lonicera bella Zabel’s Honeysuckle Lonticera maacki Late-blooming Honeysuckle Lonicera tatarica Tartarian Honeysuckle Rhamnus cathartica Common Buckthorn Spiraea vanhouttet Van Houtte’s Bridal Wreath Syringa vulgaris Common Lilac Viburnum (in variety) 126 THE COMPLETE GARDEN E. Hepces ror Break Exposures. These plants are hardy as far north as the Canadian northwest and will survive under extreme exposure. This group has been subdivided in order more clearly to differentiate between plants which should be used for their different characteristics under different exposures. a. Late foliage: Syringa vulgaris (not variety alba) Common Lilac b. Close shearing: Berberis thunbergt Elaeagnus angustifolia Thunberg’s Japanese Barberry Russian Olive Caragana arborescens Rhamnus cathartica Siberian Pea Shrub Common Buckthorn Caragana microphylla Shepherdia argentea Dahurian Pea Shrub Buffalo Berry Shepherdia canadensis (on lime) ’ Canadian Buffalo Berry c. Unsheared low hedges: Berberis thunbergt Spiraea vanhoutter Thunberg’s Japanese Barberry Van Houtte’s Bridal Wreath d. Fruiting hedges: Berberis thunbergt Rosa (in variety) Thunberg’s Japanese Barberry Native Rose Crataegus (in variety) Rosa rugosa Thorn Japanese Rose Hippophae rhamnoides Shepherdia argentea Sea Buckthorn Buffalo Berry Rhamnus cathartica Shepherdia canadensis (on lime) Common Buckthorn Canadian Buffalo Berry Symphoricarpos (in variety) Snowberry e. Shady places: Acer saccharinum Philadelphus coronarius Silver Maple Common Mock Orange Crataegus monogyna Spiraea vanhoutter English Hawthorn Van Houtte’s Bridal Wreath Lonicera xylosteum Symphoricarpos racemosus Fly Bush Honeysuckle Snowberry Pirate XX. An effective combination of stone work and of plantings in an informal lawn. Varieties of stonecrop, moss pinks and Scotch pinks lend charm to an otherwise uninteresting mass of stone. (See plate LIII, page 334, for lily planting shown in background of this picture.) (See page 139) Pratt XXI. An uninteresting rocky slope often can be turned into an attractive landscape feature through the careful selection and planting of plants adapted to light, sandy soils. This slope is covered with a grouping of hardy pinks, evergreen candy-tuft, saxifrage and tufted pansy. (See page 139) CHAPTER XIII PLANTS FOR BORDER PLANTING A VERY important question in the proper development of a lawn is how to give it a background and suitable enclosure of trees and shrubs. This chapter is especially concerned with the types of shrubs which are used as masses of planting in the shrub borders. These shrubs may be used in isolated groups or in a continuous border, the object of either method of arrangement being to provide a frame for the picture. There are two types of lawns: the refined lawn area, and the more natural lawn area which fits into the existing landscape and which 1s not kept as well mowed and as neatly edged. ‘The refined lawn area requires a type of shrub planting which must be neat in its outlines, possessing an interesting touch of foliage, flowers, and fruit, and naturally making a compact mass. This material is usually selected from the refined types of nursery-grown stock such as spirea, privet, snowball, golden bell, honeysuckle, and mock-orange. In every border planting, if carefully analyzed, there will be found three distinct types of shrubs: those which are tall growing, averaging from seven to ten feet in height; those which are of medium growth, averaging from four to seven feet in height; and those which are low growing, averaging from two to four feet in height. It is essential properly to group these shrubs in order to have a compact foliage effect carrying from the higher shrubs through the lower shrubs to meet the turf. It is very important, however, in the grouping of the different types of low, medium, and tall-growing shrubs in refined plantings not only to know the normal height which the shrubs attain but to know whether the foliage texture on one shrub is extremely fine and that on another shrub extremely coarse. For instance, the Japanese barberry is not used to the best advantage in front of the coarser, medium-growing varieties of flowering currant, sumac, or viburnum. It is much better adapted for use in front of the spirea, white kerria, and privet, shrubs with smaller types of foliage. The reason is that the sudden transition 127 128 THE COMPLETE GARDEN from the extremely coarse texture of foliage to the extremely fine texture of foliage creates a discord in the landscape picture. There are many of the shrubs contained in the second group which are those used to compose border plantations on a large scale where the detailed study of the planting is not its most important side, but rather where the general mass effects seen at a distance produce the interest- ing effect. Shrubs which are selected for border planting on the re- fined lawn areas, which are usually much more restricted than the ex- tensive lawns, must stand the test of detailed study at the same time that they prove their value as mass effects. The shrubs which are valuable for the less-refined and extensive lawn areas may consist of some of the shrubs for refined lawn plant- ings, such as the snowballs and the honeysuckles; but in general many of these shrubs are more or less native and generally collected locally. It is a difficult task to define the material which should be used in border plantings on the larger lawn areas where the coarser mass effects will meet the requirements. In general, most of the shrubs which are adapted to plantings on the refined lawn areas are adapted to the second type of plantings; but not all of the shrubs included in the second group and adapted to the more unrefined lawn areas are adapted in any way to use on the limited refined lawn areas. LIST OF PLANTS FOR BORDER PLANTING A. Masses For REFINED Lawn Areas. This group consists of both low-growing and tall-growing types of shrubs, mostly of a hardy foliage type, neat in the habit of their growth, compact in the texture of their foliage, and comparatively free from the ravages of insects and scale. The evergreen shrubs which can appropriately be interjected into border plantings are few in number and must be used sparingly. They are omitted from the following altogether. a. Low-growing shrubs (approximately three feet tall): Berberis thunbergi Deutzia lemoinei Thunberg’s Japanese Barberry Lemoine’s Deutzia Callicarpa purpurea Hypericum moserianum Beauty Fruit Gold Flower Caryopteris incana Hypericum patulum henryti Blue Spirea Hybrid St. John’s Wort Deutzia gracilis Kerria japonica Slender Deutzia _ Globe Flower C. PLANTS FOR BORDER PLANTING Myrica cerifera Bayberry Rosa spinosissima Scotch Rose Spiraea arguta Hybrid Snow Garland Spiraea bumalda anthony waterer Crimson Spirea Spiraea japonica alba Dwarf White Spirea Stephanandra flexuosa Stephanandra Symphoricarpos racemosus Snowberry Symphoricarpos vulgaris Indian Currant Xanthorrhiza apitfolia Yellowroot Medium-growing shrubs (from four to seven feet tall): Amelanchier rotundifolia June Berry Aralia pentaphylla _ Five-leaved Angelica Cornus (in variety) Dogwood Cotoneaster dielsiana Chinese Cotoneaster Cotoneaster lucida Hybrid Cotoneaster Diervilla hybrida—Eva Rathke Hybrid Weigela Evonymus alatus Cork-barked Burning Bush Evonymus yedoensis Japanese Spindle Tree Forsythia intermedia spectabilis Hybrid Golden Bell Ligustrum amurense Amoor River Privet Ligustrum tbota regelianum Regel’s Privet Magnolia stellata Starry Magnolia Prunus japonica (in variety) Flowering Almond Prunus triloba Flowering Plum Rhodotypos kerrioides White Kerria Rhus canadensis (horizontal form) Fragrant Sumac Rhus copallina Shining Sumac Ribes aureum Flowering Currant Sophora vicitfolia Sophora Spiraea prunifolia Bridal Wreath Spiraea vanhouttet Van Houtte’s Bridal Wreath Spiraea veitcht Veitch’s Spirea Syringa persica Persian Lilac Viburnum carlesi Korean Viburnum Viburnum cassinoides Withe-rod Viburnum dilatatum Japanese Bush Cranberry Viburnum tomentosum Single Japanese Snowball Tall-growing shrubs (growing over seven feet tall): Cercis canadensis Red-bud Diervilla floribunda Pink Weigela Diervilla florida Rose-coloured Weigela Evonymus bungeanus Bunge’s Spindle Tree Evonymus europaeus European Spindle Tree Exochorda grandiflora Pearl Bush 129 130 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Forsythia intermedia Lonicera tatarica Hybrid Golden Bell Tartarian Honeysuckle Forsythia suspensa fortunet Philadelphus coronartus Fortune’s Golden Bell Common Mock Orange Forsythia viridissima Philadelphus falconert Dark Green Golden Bell Falconer’s Mock Orange Lonicera bella Syringa (in variety) Zabel’s Honeysuckle Lilac Lonicera maackt Viburnum lantana Late-blooming Honeysuckle Wayfaring Tree Lonicera morrowt Viburnum lentago Japanese Bush Honeysuckle Sheep Berry Viburnum opulus High Bush Cranberry B. Masses Consistinc Mostiy oF NatTIvE CoLLEcTED SHRUBS. This group consists mostly of shrubs which are indigenous to the sec- tion of the country where they are used. These plants are adapted to plantations on a large or small scale, where a feeling of formality or of definite refinement of detail is not required. It is difficult to differentiate fully between the two groups in this chapter. A number of shrubs may equally well, under expert selection and placing, be used in either group interchangeably. a. Low-growing shrubs: Azalea lutea Filipendula purpurea Flame-coloured Azalea Steeple Bush Azalea nudiflora Hypericum aureum Pinkster Flower Large-flowered St. John’s Wort Azalea vaseyi Itea virginica Carolina Azalea Virginian Willow Callicarpa purpurea Myrica cerifera Beauty Fruit Bayberry Ceanothus americanus Rhodora canadensis New Jersey Tea Rhodora Comptonia asplenifolia Rosa nitida Sweet Fern Shining-leaved Rose Diervilla trifida Symphoricarpos racemosus Bush Honeysuckle Snowberry Symphoricarpos vulgaris Indian Currant b. Medium-growing shrubs: Amorpha fruticosa False Indigo Aronia arbutifolia Red Chokeberry Aronia melanocarpa Black Chokeberry Azalea arborescens Smooth Azalea PLANTS FOR BORDER PLANTING 131 Calycanthus floridus Strawberry Shrub Cephalanthus occidentalis Button Bush Clethra alnifolia Sweet Pepper Bush Dirca palustris Leatherwood Evonymus americanus Strawberry Bush Hydrangea arborescens Wild Hydrangea Tall-growing shrubs: Amelanchier canadensis Shad-bush Chionanthus virginica White Fringe Cornus florida Flowering Dogwood Corylus americana Hazelnut Crataegus (in variety) horn Evonymus atropurpureus Burning Bus Ilex glabra Inkberry Kalmia Laurel Rhododendron (in variety) Rhododendron Rhus canadensis Fragrant Sumac Roses (In variety) Viburnum acerifolium Maple-leaved Viburnum Hamamelis virginiana Witch Hazel Ilex verticillata Winterberry Pyrus (in variety) Crab Sambucus canadensis American Elder Sambucus racemosa Red-berried Elder Staphylea trifolia American Bladder-nut Viburnum (in variety) CHAPTER XIV ACCENT AND SPECIMEN TREES AND SHRUBS THERE are two kinds of specimen plants, those which are used as single specimens, with full space allowed for their normal development, and those which are used as accent plants in masses of border planting, because, as such, on account of their flowering and foliage habits, they lend a definite touch of interest to the plantation. The various plants included in this group are those which have a normal symmetrical habit of growth, or those which can easily be kept in a neat, symmetrical outline. In order fully to understand the difference between specimen trees and shrubs, and trees and shrubs for border plantings in groups, the reader should first know that many of our trees and shrubs are not adapted to so-called “‘mass plantings.” Under the crowded condition of mass plantings these trees and shrubs do not produce any of their interesting characteristics of flowers and general outline. Much dead growth becomes evident on account of the exclusion of light and air necessary for their proper development. It is necessary to examine but a few plantations further to know that many trees and shrubs most interesting when used as individual specimens or as groups of two or three plants make a most uninterest- ing group when massed in quantity. In general it may be said that specimen piants are used as such because of their fruiting habit, flowering habit, interesting outline, or general foliage effect, which is evidenced at its best when the material is planted as individual specimens. So-called specimen plants in this group are often used as accent plants in the larger and massed plantations, because of the quality of the flowers, the colour of the foliage, the habit of their growth, or the texture and colour of twigs. Many specimen plants can be used to good advantage scattered here and there in the border plantations to emphasize one or more of these interesting characteristics, and they sometimes are even more effectively used in this way as accent plants than as specimen plants on the lawn. Whenever material is selected as specimen material it should be 132 ACCENT AND SPECIMEN TREES AND SHRUBS 133 planted as such, and space should be provided wherein the plants can develop their individual and normal characteristic habits of growth; but when they are used as accent plants it is not so essential to provide space for normal development. Illustrations of this may be seen in the use of the burning bush, the sourwood, and the silver bell. LIST OF ACCENT AND SPECIMEN TREES AND SHRUBS The types of plants in these two groups are sometimes used in large masses as specimens or as accent plants. The best effect as specimens is obtained when they are used singly and as accent plants when they are used either singly or in groups varying from one to three specimens. These plants are valuable because of flowers, foliage, habit of growth, texture of growth, colour of twigs, or fruiting effect. A. TREEs. a. Accent and specimen trees: Abies (in variety) Juniperus virginiana Fir Red Cedar Acer palmatum (in variety) Koelreuteria paniculata Japanese Maple Varnish Tree Acer platanoides schwedleri Larix (in variety) Schwedler’s Purple Maple arch Aesculus (in variety) Horse-chestnut Betula (in variety) Birch Catalpa bunget Round-leaved Catalpa Cercidiphyllum japonicum Liquidambar styraciflua Sweet Gum Magnolia (in variety) Magnolia Morus alba tatarica pendula Tea’s Weeping Mulberry Nyssa sylvatica Kadsura Tree Tupelo Cercis canadensis Oxydendrum arboreum Red-bud Sourwood Chamaecyparis (in variety) Picea (in variety) Cypress Spruce Cladrastris lutea Pinus (in variety) Yellow-wood Pine Cornus florida Flowering Dogwood Cornus kousa Japanese Dogwood Crataegus (in variety) horn Fagus (in variety) Beech Fagus sylvatica heterophylla Fern-leaved European Beech Populus alba pyramidalis Bolle’s Poplar Populus nigra italica Lombardy Poplar Prunus fruticosa pendula Weeping Cherry Prunus padus commutata Hybrid European Bird Cherry Prunus persica Flowering Peach 134 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Prunus pissardi Sorbus quercifolia Purple-leaved Plum Oak-leaved Mountain Ash Pyrus (in variety) Taxodium distichum Crab Bald Cypress Quercus (in variety) Tilia tomentosa Oak Silver Linden Salix blanda Thuja (in variety) Wisconsin Weeping Willow Arborvitae Salix vitellina britzensis Tsuga canadensis (in variety) Hybrid Yellow Willow Canadian Hemlock Sciadopitys verticillata Ulmus foliacea wheatleyi Umbrella Pine Wheatley’s Cornish Elm Ulmus glabra camperdowni Camperdown Weeping Elm b. Columnar and pyramidal trees: Oftentimes situations arise in the solution of landscape problems where the use of trees for their pyramidal or columnar habit of growth becomes almost a necessity. This necessity may arise because of such features being an important part of the landscape composition, or it may arise because of the screen effect which the designer is desirous of producing where trees must develop within a narrow space of from two to four feet. Most of the trees in this group develop normally into a pyramidal or columnar form like the pyramidal maples, the poplars, and the red cedar, quite unlike the spreading habit of the sugar maples, horse-chestnut, and beech. None of these trees lend themselves to use in plantations where a broad, informal character is desired in the picture; but all lend themselves for use in landscape planting where it is necessary to have a background of heavy foliage and an immediate garden planting close to these trees. The planter should always bear in mind that a background of trees of this type, planted closely together, will be very injurious to a flower garden development, provided the screen planting is located on the southerly side of the flower garden, thus throwing dense shade over the garden during the greater part of the day. From another point of view, however, this type of tree planted closely together will prove a wonderful asset if planted on the southerly side of some fountain or garden terminus where it is desired to produce a heavy shade. Abies brachyphylla Acer Saccharinum pyramidale Nikko Fir Pyramidal Silver Maple Abies concolor Acer saccharum monumentale White Fir Pyramidal Sugar Maple ACCENT AND SPECIMEN TREES AND SHRUBS Betula alba fastigtata Pyramidal White Birch Carpinus betulus fastigiata Pyramidal Hornbeam Chamaecyparis lawsoniana Lawson’s Cypress Juniperus communis suecica Swedish Juniper Juniperus virginiana pyramidalis Pyramidal Red Cedar Juniperus virginiana schottt Schott’s Red Cedar Liriodendron tulipifera pyramidalis Pyramidal Tulip Tree Picea excelsa columnaris Columnar Norway Spruce Picea excelsa pyramidalis Pyramidal Norway Spruce Populus alba pyramidalis Bolle’s Poplar Populus nigra italica Lombardy Poplar Quercus robur pyramidalis Pyramidal English Oak Robinia pseudacacia pyramidalis Pyramidal Black Locust Sorbus hybrida fastigiata Pyramidal Mountain Ash Taxodium distichum pyramidatum Pyramidal Bald Cypress Thuja occidentalis fastigiata Fastigiate Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis plicata Pyramidal Arborvitae Thuja orientalis pyramidalis Columnar Oriental Arborvitae Tsuga heterophylla Western Hemlock Ulmus foliacea dampiert Fastigiate Elm Ulmus foliacea wheatleyi Wheatley’s Cornish Elm B. SHrvuss. Aesculus parviflora Dwarf Horse-chestnut Azalea (in variety) Azalea Caragana arborescens Siberian Pea Shrub Chaenomeles japonica Japanese Quince Chionanthus retusa Chinese Fringe Tree Chionanthus virginica White Fringe Cornus stolonifera favirammea Golden-twigged Osier Corylus maxima purpurea Purple-leaved Hazel Diervilla hybrida lutea-marginata Variegated Weigela Deutzia scabra ' Single White Deutzia Evonymus alatus Cork-barked Burning Bush Evonymus americanus Strawberry Bush Evonymus europaeus European Spindle Tree Exochorda grandiflora Pearl Bush Halesia carolina Silver Bell Hibiscus syriacus Rose of Sharon Hydrangea (in variety) Hydrangea Prunus japonica Flowering Almond Prunus triloba Flowering Plum Rhus cotinus Smoke Bush Robinia hispida (grafted high) Rose Acacia Sambucus canadensis aurea Golden Elder Stewartia pentagyna Alleghany Stewartia Tamarix odessana Caspian Tamarisk 135 CHAPTER XV PLANTS VALUABLE FOR USE IN ROCK GARDENS, IN JAPANESE GARDENS, AND IN WALL CREVICES A FULLY developed estate to-day is not complete without an in- teresting rock garden, not because it gives an interesting physical variety to the landscape, but because it provides an opportunity for the development of one of our most interesting groups of plants, those plants which grow their best and prove most interesting in a miniature landscape of this rocky character. These gardens have been de- veloped to perfection on many English estates. The group of plants valuable for the development of rock garden work is comparatively little known to the amateur, and yet there are used in rock gardens many interesting types frequently used for other purposes. It is true that many of the plants grown for rock gardens are very dwarf in their habit of growth and much more sensitive to changed conditions of soil and exposure, and that many of them there- fore require expert labour for their normal development. 7 The most interesting group of plants, perhaps, for rock garden work, includes the plants known as “alpine” plants, which are low-growing, very dense, and compact in their habit of growth. Most of these plants have small leaves and the flowers are rather brilliant and marked in their colours. The term “alpine” plants to-day is applied in its general use to that dwarf and low-growing group of plants which have a tendency to compactness of habit, and which in their mature form of development seem to fit into the confined atmosphere of the average rock garden. The true rock garden plants may perhaps be the “alpine”? types, but those plants which landscape architects use to-day for rock garden purposes include not only the “alpine” types but many small plants, even though they come from the lowlands, from the woods, or from the more arid desert sections. There are a few of the tall-growing types of plants, such as foxgloves and some of the single roses, which, though not dwarf in character, are ad- mirably fitted to the scale of rock garden work. 136 ROCK AND JAPANESE GARDENS, WALL CREVICES 137 To one who is in the beginning of this work of selecting plants for rock garden use the impression should not be conveyed that every plant which is dwarf in its habit of growth is desirable for the rock garden. Many of these plants are extremely undesirable, such as the creeping Jenny (lysimachia) and dead nettle (lamium maculatum), mostly because of their tendency to grow rampant and to crowd out and smother many of the more sensitive and more beautiful types of rock garden plants. These plants are also difficult to eradicate from the garden when once they become established. They should never be used except in a rock garden on an extensive scale where the tend- ency to spread will not eventually become offensive. In order to maintain the true rock garden character it is very essential that plants should be selected which are in harmony with the spirit of the garden. Many so-called rock gardens are filled with the more common annuals, with sweet williams, phlox, hollyhocks, and even large irises—plants which belong to an entirely different type of garden, or which, because of their size, are not in keeping with the scale of a minutely detailed rock garden. It is not necessary, in the development of an interesting rock gar- den, to use a large quantity of different types of plants. The success of a rock garden is dependent largely upon the ability of the designer to select proper types of plants for a specific purpose, whether the rock garden be very small and occupying only a corner of the lawn, or whether it be an extensive area in some wooded portion of the property. Such plants as hydrangeas, spireas, petunias, and many plants of these types which the reader has often seen in rock garden work, give evi- dence immediately of the lack of knowledge of plants and of their proper usage. It is true also that the plants which are used in rock gardens require an amount of care in their maintenance equal to that given plants in the more refined and formal types of garden work. For the person who has progressed along the path of successful rock gardening it might be well to suggest that he should endeavour to become intimately acquainted with the plants which he is using, especially their source of origin and the conditions under which they grew in their native locations. Plants which will withstand extreme drought, hot suns, and extreme cold, if they are planted in the correct locations in a rock garden, will not be hardy to any extent when planted in the open border. In other words, such plants as the cheddar pink 138 THE COMPLETE GARDEN and the wild pink are considered to be true crevice plants, and they should be used only for that purpose in rock garden work. These plants have a type of environment equally as much as persons or animals and under which they thrive best. The beginner who is developing this type of garden should therefore only use the more common types of plants which have withstood the abuse of “‘amateurs”’ and should make use of the specialized plants only after a thorough knowledge is gained concerning them. One writer has said concerning the development of a rock garden that the designer should “have an idea and stick to it.”” We see so many rock gardens which are so-called and which in reality are only a miscellaneous pile of stones. Rock gardens in their true sense are an imitation of some condition of nature, both from their physical makeup and from their planting. We should therefore make a double effort to strive toward the development of the idea. One of the most successful ways for obtaining good rock garden plants is to grow them from seed. It is often easier to seed plants in rock garden groups than it is to plant nursery-grown stock. LIST OF PLANTS VALUABLE FOR USE IN ROCK GARDENS, IN JAPANESE GARDENS, AND IN WALL CREVICES A. EverGREENS. In every garden development of this kind, a touch of evergreen foliage, the texture of which is peculiar to evergreen plantings, is essential to lend the desired interest to the garden. These evergreens are extremely dwarf in character and not vigorous in their habit of growth. Juniperus sabina Buxus suffruticosa Savin Juniper Dwarf Box Chamaecyparis obtusa nana Dwarf Japanese Cypress Chamaecyparis obtusa nana aurea Dwarf Golden Japanese Cypress Cornus canadensis Bunchberry Daphne cneorum Garland Flower Erica vagans Cornish Heath Gaultheria procumbens Wintergreen Juniperus communis Common Juniper Juniperus sabina tamariscifolia Tamarisk-leaved Savin Linnaea borealis Twin Flower Mahonta repens Creeping Mahonia Pachistima canbyi _ Canby’s Mountain Lover Pachysandra terminalis Japanese Spurge Picea excelsa gregoriana Gregory’s Dwarf Norway Spruce ' Pieris floribunda Mountain Fetterbush ROCK AND JAPANESE GARDENS, WALL CREVICES 139 Pinus montana mughus Shortia galacifolia Dwarf Mountain Pine Shortia Pyxidanthera barbulata Taxus baccata repandens Flowering Moss Spreading English Yew Rhododendron carolinianum Taxus canadensis Dwarf Rhododendron Ground Yew Rhododendron ferrugineum Taxus cuspidata nana Rusty-leaved Rhododendron Japanese Yew B. Decipuous TREES AND SHRUBS. Trees used in gardens of this kind must be the low-growing types with a compact habit of growth, and the shrubs also must be types which will lend themselves readily to the character of this kind of garden. It is hardly possible to define in words the exact character which the shrubbery must possess in order to be valuable for this type of planting. The trees and shrubs in this group may be used with safety, and there are many other shrubs which can be selected from other lists and used by experts. Acer palmatum Evonymus obovatus Japanese Maple Running Strawberry Bush Azalea japonica Hypericum moserianum Japanese Azalea Gold-flower Azalea nudiflora Lonicera spinosa alberti Pinkster Flower Large-fruited Honeysuckle Cotoneaster adpressa Philadelphus coronarius nanus Creeping Cotoneaster Dwarf Mock Orange Cotoneaster horizontalis Rhodora canadensis Prostrate Cotoneaster Rhodora Viburnum opulus nanum Dwarf Bush Cranberry Deutzia gracilis Slender Deutzia C. Perenniats. This group of plants forms one of the most interesting phases of rock garden development. Most of these perennials are either heavy in their texture of foliage, or very dwarf in their habit of growth. They will adapt themselves to cultivation in the congested spaces so often found in garden developments of this kind. Achillea boule de neige Ball of Snow *Alyssum argenteum Silvery Madwort *Alyssum saxatile compactum Golden Tuft Anemone pennsylvanica Canadian Windflower Aqualegia canadensis American Columbine *Arabis alpina nana compacta Dwarf Alpine Rock Cress * Arenaria montana Sandwort Campanula carpatica Carpathian Harebell Centaurea montana Mountain Bluet *Cerastium tomentosum Snow-in-summer *Plants especially well adapted for use in crevices of walls and paved areas. THE COMPLETE GARDEN Ceratostigma plumbaginoides Leadwort Coreopsis verticillata Dwarf Tickseed Coronilla varia Crown Vetch Dalibarda repens Barren Strawberry *Dianthus deltoides Maiden Pink *Dianthus plumarius Scotch Pink Dicentra eximia Wild Bleeding Heart Dodecatheon media Shooting Star Draba azoides Aizoon-like Whitlow. Grass Epimedium macranthum Japanese Barrenwort Erysimum pulchellum Rock-loving Hedge Mustard Euphorbia corollata Flowering Spurge Geranium sanguineum Crane’s Bill Hedera helix conglomerata Small-leaved English Ivy Helianthemum croceum Rock Rose Heuchera brizoides Red Coral-bells Heuchera sanguinea Coral-bells Iberis sempervirens Evergreen Candytuft Iris cristata Crested Iris Linaria cymbalaria Kenilworth Ivy Linaria cymbalaria maxima Large-flowered Kenilworth Ivy Linum perenne Perennial Flax Lychnis viscaria splendens Ragged Robin Mitchella repens Partridge Berry Nepeta mussini Catmint Pachysandra terminalis Japanese Spurge *Phlox stolontfera Creeping Phlox Phlox subulata Moss Pink Primula verts English Cowslip Ranunculus acris flore pleno Double Buttercup Saponaria ocymoides Rock Soapwort Saxifraga cordifolia Saxifrage *Sedum acre Mossy Stonecrop *Sedum album White Stonecrop *Sedum sexangulare Dark Green Stonecrop Sedum spectabile Brilliant Stonecrop Silene maritima Seaside Campion Silene pennsylvanica Wild Pink Silene schafta Autumn Campion Stellaria holostea Starwort Stokesia cyanea Stokes’ Aster Thalictrum aquilegifolium Meadow-rue *Thymus serpyllum languinosus Downy Thyme *Tunica saxifraga Saxifrage-like Tunica Vancouveria hexandra American Barrenwort Veronica incana Hoary Speedwell *Veronica repens Creeping Speedwell Vinca minor Periwinkle Viola (various species) *Plants especially well adapted for use in crevices of walls and paved areas. CHAPTER XVI PLANTS FOR HEAVY FORMAL EFFECTS WHILE many trees and shrubs in the hands of expert designers and gardeners may be used interchangeably for either formal or informal effects, the fact still remains that there is a group of plants which are best adapted for use to produce the heavier and more compact formal effects. The effect of formality is obtained by emphasizing geometric lines or surfaces. Plants which are upright, slow-growing, and more compact in their habit, are better adapted for this purpose than plants which are more vigorous in their habit of growth, more spread- ing, and looser in texture and therefore less apt to retain a consistent, definite form. The expert may select plants from Chapter XVII and in many in- stances produce an effect equally as attractive as that produced by plants in this group. The possibilities of failure, however, are much greater, and the subsequent necessity of pruning to retain ap- proximate forms is much greater. We speak of heavy formality as a contrasting term to plants which are loose. Compact may be a better word. It is often necessary to develop border plantations surrounding lawns filled with a feeling of formality, because of numerous axial lines, and also to surround or border definite formal garden areas with trees and shrubs. To be successful these masses of plants must lend themselves to this formal effect. They must be such as can be kept within definite limits with the normal amount of pruning. The European hornbeam, the red cedar, pyramidal arborvitae, and tartarian honeysuckle are excellent illustrations of this type of material. A so-called formal effect in a border planting is not necessarily produced by the use of trees. It may be equally well produced by shrubs depending upon the scale of the landscape setting. It is not necessary either to resort to the use of evergreens, although there are certain types of architectural details beside which deciduous plantings appear “weak.” Climatic conditions being favourable for a normal growth of the type of material 141 142 THE COMPLETE GARDEN best suited, the decision to use evergreens or deciduous material will be governed by the effect which is desired. Topiary work as a type of planting producing formal effects is the extreme of artificial methods. Trees and shrubs which are selected for this purpose are included almost without exception in the group known as “‘evergreens and broad-leaved evergreens,” such as the yews, holly, and boxwoods. The hawthorn and the beech are the marked exceptions to this general rule, and are plants capable of severe pruning to produce artificial and fantastic shapes. These plants must lend themselves readily to frequent and to severe prunings in order to produce these forms. While topiary work as a matter of design is ex- tremely limited in its application, there will often arise situations in which this extreme and violent treatment to produce the artificial forms in plants is justified. Topiary work has at times been very appropriately termed verdant sculpture. It is nothing more nor less than sculpture in plant forms so far as plants will lend themselves to details of such experiments. All of these plants which are especially adapted to topiary work are extremely slow growing and long lived. While many fantastic forms can be developed from such plants as the privet and hawthorn within a comparatively short period, the rare, more perfect, and permanent forms are usually the result of using the boxwood or yew. Most of these trees which are adapted to topiary work, especially the pyramidal form of topiary work, are upright grow- ing, single-stemmed specimens. Plants which are adapted to these effects must also be of a compact texture with foliage evenly developed to a point close to the ground. There are many deciduous plants which, while not being adapted to topiary work, are adapted to close shearing to produce formal effects. Many experts do not realize that there are various species of the same genera which lend themselves much more effectively to close shearing in definite forms than other species of that genera. The Japanese privet is much more effective in the lower hedge of two to four feet, because of its tendency to “‘mat,’’ than the Amoor River privet, which has a tendency to make long growths. All of the deciduous plants in these groups are comparatively slow in growing habit. They have a tendency to frequent branching and a further tendency to throw out new growths from dormant buds when the ends of the existing branches are removed. While there is a considerable list of plants which are adapted for (AX JoideyD 22g) -aAoqe umoys se ‘oinjo1d uapre8 ayy JamodsaAo yotyM sau0ys JO UOIIDaTJOI B FO IYI 9q [IM IWafe 91 9siMioyiO ‘uapses ay jo apeds ayi YIM Suldaey ur yaya ue adnpoid 03 pagdajas aq 3snur sjueyd ayi ing ‘posed [jaa eq souojs aya ysnur ATUO jou ‘uapsreS yoo [Nyssadons ve dojaaap Of], “TixxX divag (J-AX dnois “6£1 ased 99¢) ‘adeIULAPe JUA][IOXa 0} pasn sjuejd Iepiuis 19430 pue ‘eotun} ‘3yn} Uapjos ‘xoyyd surdaais ‘syutd yd}09g 99S aM ydeisojoyd sty uy = ‘adseljoy puke s1aMOP JO [JEM vO} YOI jo [[eM & adueyod 0} ‘Arm [jews & ul UdAa ‘sauIOD Ayiunj10oddo , W192 942 SIOp sN JO MAJ OT “[] [XX AILVIg 9yt Ajjuenbay MOY JIT ‘uoIssa1d WI 9}1uUyop ve AJAUOD _uapied [[e™, ‘ PLANTS FOR HEAVY FORMAL EFFECTS 143 growing in tubs, as frequently seen, for accent points in a formal garden or on a terrace, the amateur should best confine himself to the Japanese laurel, the evergreen evonymus, the greenhouse hydrangea, pyramidal arborvitae, and the boxwood. Most of these should be transferred during the winter months, preferably to a cold cellar or to a cold house, and even those which are semi-hardy, if left out of doors, should be carefully boxed and protected. Perhaps the most interesting groups of trees and shrubs for formal effects are those which are valuable for use in pleached allees. This feature in the design of large estates has not yet reached its height and will become more popular with the development of landscape design as applied to American estates and gardens. ‘The plants of this group must be resistant to disease and insect pests and they must be able to thrive under conditions of severe pruning. The one most important requisite is that they shall be long lived and not easily broken by win- ter storms. The texture of branching must be close. To use for pleached allees trees, such as the birches, which are short lived and which always begin to deteriorate at a time when the allee should be most picturesque and at its height, is landscape folly. It takes years, five to eight years, to develop a pleached allee so that the tops will come together. To endeavour to hasten the growth of plants by excessive. fertilization during the first two or three years will have a tendency to split the bark and to expose the trunks to severe injury from freezing and rotting. ‘These plants should be of a spreading habit of growth as contrasted with the columnar habit of growth desired for open allees. While these specimens are planted at intervals of eighteen to twenty- four inches in rows, it often becomes necessary to interplant with the smaller specimens which will serve as fillers for the base. The normal distance between rows on either side of a pleached allee is six feet to eight feet. It is most advisable to train these plants to the pleached form by the use of iron pipe and wire. This can be done by a skilled gar- dener, by constant attention and the frequent use of pruning shears. Trees and shrubs for open allees must meet the one requirement of being close growing and columnar in their habit. An open allee may be developed with rapid-growing material as well as with slow-grow- ing material, and the time required is less than two-thirds as long as the time required to develop a pleached allee of the same height. Six to ten years may be required to develop an open allee eight to ten feet in height, The scale of the allee, whether wide, with a tall border 144 THE COMPLETE GARDEN on either side, or narrow, with a lower border, governs the type of material which should be selected. Here again, with such plants as the thorns and elms, a larger specimen may be used with a high head, and the smaller specimens may be planted between and on either side to produce the mass of foliage at the bottom. An illustration of this is shown in plate No. XXVIII on Page 190. This interesting open allee of thorns and flowering dogwood is planted according to the following measurements. ‘The distance between the middle line of each row of thorns is twenty-two feet six inches. Each row was originally planted with high-headed thorns at a distance of four feet six inches apart in the row. Equally spaced at a distance approximating one foot six inches apart, small specimens two feet to three feet high were planted in a single row at a distance of one foot six inches on either side-of the main row of thorns. These small thorns were for the purpose of producmg a foliage effect beginning at the ground and extending into the higher heads of the larger thorns. The width between the rows of flowering dogwood is eight feet and the distance between each flowering dog- wood plant in each row is eight feet. The width of the walk in this picture is four feet. It is very essential to use types which have a branching habit to the extreme base of the main trunk if a perfect open allee is desired. LIST OF PLANTS FOR HEAVY FORMAL EFFECTS A. Borper Prantinc. This group of trees and shrubs is composed of those specimens which either lend themselves to a natural, compact effect when pruned, or which possess an even, close habit of growth, fitting them particularly for formal effects. Plants used for this purpose should not be those which have a tendency to sucker and to make any indifferent growths in different directions. ‘Acer saccharinum pyramidale Pyramidal Silver Maple Acer saccharum monumentale Columnar Sugar Maple Betula alba fastigiata Pyramidal White Birch Carpinus betulus European Hornbeam Catalpa bungei Round-leaved Catalpa Cercidiphyllum japonicum Kadsura Tree Hibiscus syriacus Rose of Sharon Juniperus communis hibernica Irish Juniper Juniperus communis suecica Swedish Juniper Juniperus virginiana Red Cedar Juniperus virginiana cannartt Columnar Tufted Cedar Juniperus virginiana glauca Blue Virginia Cedar B. Toprary WorK AND CLOSE SHEARING. PLANTS FOR HEAVY FORMAL EFFECTS 145) Juniperus virginiana schottt Schott’s Red Cedar Lonicera tatarica Tartarian Honeysuckle Picea excelsa pyramidalis Pyramidal Norway Spruce Populus alba pyramidalis Bolle’s Poplar Populus nigra italica Lombardy Poplar Quercus robur fastigiata English Oak Sciadopitys verticillata Umbrella Pine. Thuja occidentalis pyramidalis Pyramidal Arborvitae The plants in these two groups (a and b) are selected because they will adapt themselves, with careful attention, to close shearing and interesting topiary work.’ There are many plants which if sheared closely do not produce any effect of foliage until they have recovered from the pruning. All these speci- mens, however, can be sheared and still retain a mass foliage effect. a. Evergreen: Buxus (all sorts) Boxwood Chamaecyparis nootkatensis Yellow Cedar Chamaecyparis obtusa nana Dwarf Japanese Cypress Ilex crenata Japanese Holly Picea excelsa Norway Spruce Picea orientalis Oriental Spruce Pinus cembra Swiss Stone Pine Pinus densiflora umbraculifera Dwarf Japanese Red Pine Pinus montana Swiss Mountain Pine Pinus montana mughus Dwarf Mountain Pine Taxus cuspidata Japanese Yew Taxus cuspidata nana Japanese Yew Tsuga canadensis Canadian Hemlock Deciduous: Acer campestre European Cork Maple Acer platanoides globosum Globe Norway Maple Berberis thunbergt Thunberg’s Japanese Barberry Carpinus betulus European Hornbeam Carpinus betulus globosa Globe Hornbeam Catalpa bignonioides nana Dwarf Indian Bean Cornus paniculata Grey Dogwood Crataegus crus-galli Cockspur Thorn Crataegus oxycantha May Thorn Evonymus alatus Cork-barked Burning Bush Ilex glabra Inkberry Ligustrum tbota Japanese Privet Ligustrum vulgare uropean Privet Viburnum opulus nanum Dwarf Bush Cranberry Viburnum pruntfolium Black Haw 146 THE COMPLETE GARDEN C. Growinc 1n Tuss. One of the most successful sources of obtaining refinement of detail in formal work is through the use of plants grown intubs. ‘These are particularly adapted to terraces, areas around pools, and places where plants must be trained for a specific detailed effect, and oftentimes cannot be planted in the ground at the place where the effect is desired. Abelia grandiflora Hydrangea opuloides otaksa Hybrid Abelia Hydrangea A gapanthus umbellatus Lagerstroemia indica Blue Lily-of-the-Nile rape Myrtle Allamanda (in variety) Laurus nobilis Allamanda Vine Bay Tree Aucuba japonica Musa ensete Japanese Laurel Abyssinian Banana Bougainvillea (in variety) Nerium (in variety) Paper Flower Oleander Buxus (many sorts) Pyracantha coccinea lalandi Boxwood Evergreen Thorn Caryopteris incana Thuja occidentalis pyramidalis Blue Spirea Pyramidal Arborvitae Eleagnus pungens Tabernaemontana (in variety) Bronze Oleaster Crape Jasmine Evonymus japonicus Trained fruit trees Evergreen Evonymus (all sorts) Hibiscus rosa-sinensts Vitex agnus-castus Chinese Hibiscus Chaste Tree D. Trees AND SHRUBS FoR ALLEES. All plants which are adapted to allee effects must be of a type which will respond to the operations of severe pruning. Those plants in Group a must have a special adaptation for a spreading habit of growth and yet a compact habit of growth. They must be such plants as will retain their foliage during a considerable period in order to produce and maintain the pleached allee effect. The deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs shown in Group D of this list are all adapted to types of open allee developments on different scales, to be in keeping with the general landscape effect. a. Pleached Acer campestre Corylus maxima European Cork Maple Filbert Carpinus caroliniana Crataegus oxycantha American Hornbeam May Thorn Carpinus betulus Fagus sylvatica European Hornbeam European Beech PLANTS FOR HEAVY FORMAL EFFECTS Quercus laurifolia (South of Washington) - Laurel Oak Rhamnus cathartica Common Buckthorn b. Not pleached (Open Allees): 1. Deciduous: Acer saccharinum pyramidale Pyramidal Silver Maple Acer saccharum monumentale Columnar Sugar Maple Betula alba fastigiata Pyramidal White Birch Crataegus oxycantha ay Thorn Larix leptolepsis Japanese Larch Populus nigra ttalica Lombardy Poplar 2. Evergreen: Abies brachyphylla Nikko Fir Juniperus excelsa stricta Slender Greek Juniper Juniperus virginiana schottt Schott’s Red Cedar Picea excelsa columnaris Columnar Norway Spruce Picea excelsa pyramidalis Pyramidal Norway Spruce Salix pentandra Laurel-leaved Willow Ulmus campestris English Elm Quercus robur fastigiata English Oak Sorbus quercifolia Oak-leaved Mountain Ash Taxodium distichum Bald Cypress Taxus baccata fastigiata Irish Yew Ulmus foliacea wheatleyt Wheatley’s Cornish Elm Ulmus glabra fastigiata Columnar Elm Picea omorika Servian Spruce Thuja occidentalis lutea Oriental Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis wareana Siberian Arborvitae Thuja orientalis (northern grown) Oriental Arborvitae Thuja plicata Western Arborvitae 147 CHAPTER XVII PLANTS FOR NATURAL, INFORMAL EFFECTS AS CONTRASTED with plants adapted to heavy or compact formal effects the plants of this group have a more open, looser habit of growth. They are apt to be not quite as refined in character in some instances, and they are not required to produce the neat line of foliage which are part of the more formal designs. It is difficult to define clearly, and to specify, what plants are to be used in informal effects. At the same time, a few standard kinds of plants to be used in the border plantations of lawns, in the border plantations of wild garden areas and informal garden areas should be listed for ready reference. It is much easier to use some of the plants included in the former list, especially those with the more vigorous, open habit of growth, for this type of planting, than to use plants in- cluded in this list for the same purpose as those included in the former list. Most large and small lawns which are not developed on definite, formal axial lines, should be bordered with plants of this kind. | The reader is warranted in concluding that all plants not adapted for use in the preceding groups of plants for formal effects are automatic- ally placed in this present group. It is safe to select any plant in- digenous to the locality and also many of the introduced horticultural varieties, such as high-bush cranberry, flowering currant and dogwoods. Lilacs, tartarian honeysuckle, and hybrid rhododendrons, however, with greater refinement of foliage and of bloom, on the other hand, are obviously of more value in the more formal plantings. Collected stock is of great value for natural, informal effects. To reproduce nature and her group effects should be the object of natural, informal planting. A natural planting impresses the observer as does nature untouched by the hand of the designer, and this is a most difficult effect to obtain artificially. LIST OF PLANTS FOR NATURAL, INFORMAL EFFECTS It is difficult to define the effects which it is intended to produce through the use of plants included in this list. In general, these 148 PLANTS FOR NATURAL, INFORMAL EFFECTS — 149 plants are selected because they are somewhat irregular in outline, loose in habit and texture of growth, and are not adapted to producing the neat lines of foliage required in formal development. Amelanchier oblongifolia Shad-bush Amelanchier rotundifolia June Berry Chionanthus virginica White Fringe Cornus (in variety) Dogwood Deutzia (in variety) Deutzia Diervilla (in variety) Weigela Forsythia suspensa Drooping Golden Bell Hippophae rhamnoides Sea Buckthorn Laburnum vulgare Golden Chain Lonicera fragrantissima Early Fragrant Honeysuckle Philadelphus grandiflorus Large-flowered Mock Orange Physocarpus opulifolius inebark Prunus avium plena European Double-flowering Cherry Ptelea trifoliata Hop Tree Rhododendron (in variety) Native Varieties Rhus (in variety) Sumac Ribes (in variety) Flowering Currant Robinia pseudacacia Black Locust Rosa rugosa Japanese Rose Salix babylonica Weeping Willow Sambucus canadensis American Elder Spiraea vanhouttei Van Houtte’s Bridal Wreath Symphoricarpos racemosus Snowberry Symphoricarpos vulgaris Indian Currant Tamarix gallica French Tamarisk Viburnum opulus High-bush Cranberry CHAPTER XVIII LOW-GROWING PLANTS ALONG THE INNER SIDE OF CURVING ROADWAYS AND AT ENTRANCES Priants which are selected for use in this group must have a normally low-growing habit. In general, their maximum height should ap- proximate not more than five to six feet. If the eventual height of these plants is to be greater than this, they should be of such types as will lend themselves readily to pruning and still retain their natural outlines. On many private estates, at the sharp curves of entrance drives and on either side of the main entrance, safety of trafic demands that an open view be preserved in order to avoid accidents. It becomes an important question in the development of such plans to decide upon material which should be selected for this purpose. If the degree of care which this material is to receive in the years subsequent to its original planting is that ordinarily given by an expert gardener, the designer may select many taller-growing species of shrubs, which, under this expert care, can be kept within the desired limits of growth. For those who wish to be perfectly safe in their selection, material included in this list represents the general range of the important genera and species which are available. There are many locations where high planting as a part of the general design is more desirable. In such instances a vista formed by using a group of lower shrubs can be used. If higher shrubs are desirable as a part of the design it is sometimes possible to preserve the open views by setting the tall shrubs farther back from the sides of the drive. The fragrant honeysuckle is a good substitute where one might other- wise use types such as the tartarian honeysuckle. The pink weigela is much to be preferred to the other, coarser-growing types of weigelas. LIST OF LOW-GROWING PLANTS ALONG THE INNER SIDE OF CURVING ROADWAYS AND AT ENTRANCES The plants in this group are selected because of their low-growing habit. Many other specimens may be used, which under the care of 150 LOW-GROWING PLANTS 51 an expert gardener can be kept within definite bounds. Where open views are essential and expert care is lacking, the plants indicated in these groups should be used. A. Evergreen: Andromeda polifolia Wild Rosemary Chamaedaphne calyculata Leather-leaf Evonymus radicans carrieri Carrier’s Japanese Evergreen Ivy Evonymus radicans vegetus Scarlet-fruited Japanese Evergreen Ivy Juniperus communis depressa Dwarf Juniper Juniperus horizontalis Trailing Juniper Juniperus sabina tamariscifolia Tamarisk-leaved Savin Juniperus virginiana tripartita Spreading Red Cedar Mahonia repens Creeping Mahonia Picea excelsa gregoriana Gregory’s Dwarf Norway Spruce Picea excelsa nana Dwarf Norway Spruce Pieris floribunda Mountain Fetterbush Taxus baccata repandens Spreading English Yew Taxus cuspidata brevifolia Short-leaved Japanese Yew Thuja occidentalis globosa Globe Arborvitae Thuja occidentalis (Little Gem) Little Gem Arborvitae Kalmia angustifolia Yucca filamentosa Sheep Laurel (except clay or lime soil) Adam’s Needle Yucca flaccida Drooping-leaved Adam’s Needle B. Deciduous: Amorpha canescens Lead Plant Ceanothus americanus New Jersey Tea Celastrus orbiculatus Japanese Bittersweet Deutzia gracilis Slender Deutzia Deutzia lemoinet Lemoine’s Deutzia Deutzia rosea Dwarf Pink Deutzia Diervilla trifida Bush Honeysuckle Evonymus obovatus Running Strawberry Bush Itea virginica Virginian Willow Lonicera fragrantissima Early Fragrant Honeysuckle Lonicera japonica halliana Japanese Honeysuckle Lonicera spinosa alberti Large-fruited Honeysuckle Myrica cerifera Bayberry Rosa carolina Carolina Rose Rosa setigera Prairie Rose Rosa spinosissima altaica Scotch Rose Rosa wichuraiana Memorial Rose Viburnum opulus nanum Dwarf Bush Cranberry Xanthorrhiza apitfolia Yellowroot CHAPTER XIX TREES AND SHRUBS FOR DIFFERENT FLOWERING EFFECTS PERHAPS the most important use of plants is for the effect of the flowers. At least ninety per cent. of those who develop landscape plantations have foremost in their minds the effect that is to be produced by the flowers on the trees and shrubs grown in the plantation, whether it be on a large estate or on a small home lot. There are many other valuable characteristics, however, among which are the fruiting and the foliage effects. All of these, however, are entirely secondary to this one consideration concerning the flowers. | The first thought in the use of shrubs for this purpose is to obtain flowers. It is only after some study and some thought on the subject that one realizes that shrubs may be used for many different flowering effects. We may use trees and shrubs to produce flowers at certain definite seasons, or we may use trees and shrubs to produce flowers of different colours at different seasons. The owner of the average home occupies his residence throughout the entire year. There is a group of people, however, owning both large and small homes, who occupy two or more homes each year, depending upon the season. They usually spend the spring and fall months at their residence, and hot summer months at a country home, either at the seashore or among the mountains. The first home owner must be provided with trees and shrubs which will produce as nearly as possible a flowering effect throughout the growing season, beginning with the shrubs which produce flowers before the leaves appear, such as the golden bell and the flowering plums, and ending with the shrubs such as altheas and the hydrangeas which produce flowers in the summer months. The family that occupies both a permanent residence and a country home, however, must have trees and shrubs surrounding the former which produce flowers during the spring and during the late summer and fall months; and at their summer home they must have, so far as 152 TREES AND SHRUBS FOR FLOWERING EFFECTS 153 possible, the summer-flowering types of trees and shrubs. For this reason, various groups have been outlined to embrace trees and shrubs producing flowers in the early spring before the leaves appear, and producing flowers in the early spring after the leaves appear, such as the spirea and the lilac; producing flowers during the summer months, such as the weigela and the mock orange; and producing flowers during the late summer and autumn months, such as the rose of Sharon and the hydrangea. It is therefore important in connection with our various plantations of trees and shrubs to consider specifically the period during the blooming season, when the maximum effect of flowers is desired. The second important consideration, in designing plantings of trees and shrubs, is the colour of the flowers. Flowering trees and shrubs, with respect to the colour of their flowers, may be divided into four definite groups: those which produce flowers in the shades of red and pink, such as pink-flowering dogwood, flowering peach, and the flowering crab; those which produce yellow flowers, such as the Scotch broom, yellow jasmine, and the golden bell; those which produce white flowers, such as the white fringe, hawthorn, hydrangea, and elders; and those which produce blue flowers (the smallest list of all), such as the blue spirea, blue rose of Sharon, and blue lilacs. Each of these groups may be divided, as shown by the tabulations, into early- flowering and late summer-flowering sorts. The entire discussion concerning the colour of the flowers in the average planting is more theoretical than practical; but in the other plantations, where there is sufficient space to obtain masses of flowering effects during the blooming period, considerable study should be given to the colour of the flowers. The small home owner in general is much more interested in his ability to procure trees and shrubs which will give him a continuous succession of bloom. ‘This also is not always practical; but there is a group of standard shrubs, the use of which will provide as continuous bloom as can be obtained through the combination of any group of shrubs. It must be remembered that some varieties of shrubs will flower at a slightly later period than other varieties, and for this reason it is quite possible to obtain what seems to be a continuous series of bloom. The most prolific blooming shrubs, however, seem to flower during the months of May and June. During the latter part of July we have but a few shrubs, such as the hydrangea, the 154 THE COMPLETE GARDEN rose of Sharon, and the groundsel tree, which will produce flower effects. LIST OF TREES AND SHRUBS FOR DIFFERENT FLOWERING EFFECTS A. Propucinc FLowers 1N Earty Sprinc BEForE THE LEAVES Appear. The trees and shrubs included in this group produce, when in bloom, a very interesting colour note in a landscape which has been uninteresting during the winter months. Most of these plants pro- duce their best effect when used in small masses; their effect in large masses is increased only in proportion to the extensiveness of the landscape setting in which they are planted. Many interesting colour effects can be produced by the proper selection of plants from this group. Acer rubrum Forsythia (in variety) Red Maple Golden Bell Amelanchier oblongifolia Hamamelts japonica Shad-bush Japanese Witch Hazel Azalea lutea Lonicera fragrantissima Flame-coloured Azalea Early Fragrant Honeysuckle Azalea nudiflora Lonicera standisht Pinkster Flower Standish’s Bush Honeysuckle Azalea vaseyi Magnolia (Asiatic varieties) Carolina Azalea Magnolia Benzoin aestivale Mahonia aquifolium Spice Bush Oregon Grape Cercis canadensis Prunus (in variety) Red-bud Japanese Flowering Cherry Chaenomeles japonica Prunus triloba Japanese Quince Flowering Plum Cornus florida Salix caprea Flowering Dogwood Goat Willow Daphne cneorum Spiraea arguta arland Flower Hybrid Snow Garland Spiraea pruntfolia flore pleno ridal Wreath B. Propucinc Flowers In Earty Sprinc AFTER THE LEAVES AP- PEAR. Through a careful selection of plants the season of bloom from flowering trees and shrubs can be made almost continuous. There are many trees and shrubs which flower during the early spring after the leaves appear. Only those trees and shrubs which produce an TREES AND SHRUBS FOR FLOWERING EFFECTS 155 abundance of flowers, effective against a background of green foliage, are given here. Aesculus (in variety) Horse-chestnut Azalea japonica Japanese Azalea Caragana arborescens Siberian Pea Shrub Chionanthus virginica White Fringe Cornus alternifolia Alternate-leaved Dogwood Cornus stolonifera Red Osier Cornel Crataegus (in variety) horn Deutzia (in variety) Deutzia Exochorda grandiflora Pearl Bush Halesta carolina Silver Bell Lonticera bella Zabel’s Honeysuckle Lonicera morrowt Lonicera tatarica Tartarian Honeysuckle Magnolia glauca Swamp Magnolia Pyrus (in variet Hl y) Rhodotypos kerrioides White Kerria Ribes aureum Flowering Currant Rosa cinnamomea Cinnamon Rose Sambucus racemosa Red-berried Elder Spiraea arguta Hybrid Snow Garland Spiraea vanhouttei Van Houtte’s Bridal Wreath Syringa (in variety) Lilac Viburnum prunifolium Black Haw Viburnum tomentosum Japanese Bush Honeysuckle Single Japanese Snowball C. Propucinc FLrowers Durinc Earty Summer. The largest group of flowering trees and shrubs is that containing the types which flower during the early summer months. Carefully selected groupings of these plants may produce a continuous flower effect through June and July. Astilbe japonica Japanese Astilbe Catalpa (in variety) Indian Bean Cladrastis lutea Yellow-wood Cornus alba sibirica Siberian Dogwood Cornus paniculata Grey Dogwood Diervilla hybrida Hybrid Weigela Hydrangea arborescens sterilis Hills of Snow Kalmia latifolia Mountain Laurel Koelreuteria paniculata Varnish Tree Ligustrum ibota Japanese Privet Philadelphus (in variety) Mock Orange Rhododendron catawbiense hybridum ‘ Hybrid Rhododendron Rhus cotinus Smoke Bush Robinia pseudacacia Black Locust 156 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Roses (in variety) Viburnum cassinoides Roses Withe-rod Rubus deliciosus Viburnum dentatum Rocky Mountain Flowering Raspberry Arrow-wood Sambucus canadensis Viburnum lentago American Elder Sheep Berry Spiraea salicifolia Viburnum opulus Meadow-sweet High-bush Cranberry Syringa japonica Viburnum sieboldt Tree Lilac Siebold’s Viburnum Viburnum carlest Korean Viburnum Xanthoceras sorbifolia Chinese Flowering Chestnut D. Propucinc FLtowers Durinc LaTE SUMMER AND Earty Autumn. ‘There are comparatively few trees and shrubs which pro- duce an interesting flowering effect during the late summer months and during the early autumn. This group is composed of those plants whose flowers are effective in the landscape. Baccharis halimifolia Groundsel Bush Buddleia veitchiana Summer Lilac Clethra alnifolia _ Sweet Pepper Bush Elsholtzia stauntont Elsholtzia Hamamelis virginiana _ Witch Hazel ‘Hibiscus syriacus Rose of Sharon Hydrangea arborescens Wild Hydrangea Hydrangea paniculata Panicled Hydrangea Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora Large-flowered Hydrangea Hypericum (in variety) St. John’s Wort Lespedeza japonicum hite-flowering Desmodium Lespedeza sieboldi Siebold’s Desmodium Oxydendrum arboreum Sourwood " Potentilla fruticosa Shrubby Cinquefoil Sorbaria arborea glabrata Chinese Mountain Ash Spirea Spiraea billardt Billiard’s Spirea Spiraea bumalda anthony waterer Crimson Spirea Spiraea callosa alba Fortune’s White Spirea Stewartia pentagyna Alleghany Stewartia Tamarix (in variety) Tamarisk Vitex agnus-castus Chaste Tree E. Propucinc FLowers IN SHADES OF RED AND Pink. In the development of interesting colour combinations for the flowers in landscape planting some definite association of colour schemes should be listed to assist one more readily in the selection of plants for vary- ing colour effects. All plants in the following group produce flowers in shades of red and pink. The early-flowering sorts are shown in TREES AND SHRUBS FOR FLOWERING EFFECTS 157 Group a and the late spring and summer-flowering sorts are shown in Group b. a. Early-flowering sorts: Azalea nudiflora Pinkster Flower Azalea vaseyi Carolina Azalea Cercis canadensis Red-bud Cornus florida rubra Red-flowering Dogwood Kalmia angustifolia Sheep Laurel Magnolia soulangeana Soulange’s Magnolia Prunus besseyi Western Sand Cherry Prunus japonica (in variety) Flowering Almond Prunus persica vulgaris Common Peach Prunus subhirtella (in variety) Japanese Flowering Cherry Prunus tomentosa Japanese Plum Pyrus angustifolia Narrow-leaved Crab Pyrus coronaria Wild Crab Pyrus floribunda Flowering Crab Pyrus halliana parkmani Parkman’s Crab Rhodora canadensis Rhodora b. Late spring and summer-flowering sorts: Deutzia rosea Dwarf Pink Deutzia Diervilla florida Rose-coloured Weigela Kalmia latifolia Mountain Laurel Pyrus ioensis bechteli Bechtel’s Crab Roses (in variety) Roses Spiraea bumalda anthony waterer Crimson Spirea Spiraea tomentosa F. Propucinc YELLow FLoweErs. Until the trees and shrubs pro- ducing yellow flowers are grouped the reader can hardly appreciate how great is the wealth of this material. The group is divided, as are the preceding groups in the chapter, into the early-flowering types and the late-flowering types. a. Early-flowering sorts: Benzoin aestivale Spice Bush Berberis (in variety) Barberry Cornus mas Cornelian Cherry Corylopsis pauciflora Japanese Flowering Hazel Cytisus scoparius Scotch Broom Elaeagnus angustifolia Russian Olive Elaeagnus longipes Japanese Oleaster Forsythia (in variety) Golden Bell 158 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Hamamelis japonica Japanese Witch Hazel Jasminum nudiflorum Naked-flowered Jasmine Lonicera fragrantissima Early Fragrant Honeysuckle Ribes aureum Flowering Currant Salix caprea Goat Willow Salix discolor Pussy Willow Late spring and summer-flowering sorts: Azalea lutea Flame-coloured Azalea Caragana arborescens Siberian Pea Shrub Colutea arborescens Bladder Senna Genista tinctorta Dyer’s Greenweed Hypericum (in variety) St. John’s Wort Kerria japonica Globe Flower Koelreuteria paniculata Varnish Tree Laburnum vulgare Golden Chain Potentilla fruticosa Shrubby Cinquefoil Sophora japonica Japanese Pagoda Tree Rosa foetida (variety harisont) Harrison’s Yellow Rose Rosa hugonts Father Hugo’s Rose G. Propucinc Wuite Fiowers. This group of plants is sub- divided in the same way as are the two preceding groups, and consists only of those plants producing white flowers in sufficient quantity and size to be an effective element in the landscape planting. a. Early-flowering sorts: Azalea viscosa Swamp Azalea Chionanthus virginica White Fringe Cornus (in variety) Dogwood Crataegus (in variety) horn Halesia carolina Silver Bell Lonicera morrowt Japanese Bush Honeysuckle Lonicera tatarica alba White Tartarian Honeysuckle Magnolia stellata Starry Magnolia Prunus (in variety) lum Spiraea arguta Hybrid Snow Garland Spiraea vanhoutter Van Houtte’s Bridal Wreath Viburnum (in variety) Viburnum Late spring and summer-flowering sorts: Aesculus parviflora Dwarf Horse-chestnut Cladrastis lutea Yellow-wood Clethra alnifolia Sweet Pepper Bush Deutzia (in variety) Deutzia Hydrangea (in variety) Hydrangea Ligustrum (in variety) Privet Philadelphus (in variety) Mock Orange Physocarpus opultfolius Ninebark Pirate XXIV. An interior view of a pleached allee eight years after trans- planting. Note the spacing of the larger plants of the European cork maple at intervals of three feet, with “fillers” between each two of the larger trees. Compare with Plate No. XXVII on page 175 for the exterior view. Open- ings have been cut in the top of this allee to produce interesting spots of sunlight on the walk. (See page 146, group XVI-D-a, also frontispiece) (G-IAX Pue g-I[X sdnois ‘Str pue z1 saded 999) *poomxog juasaidar 0} WIOFJ jeprmesdd v Ul pout} Ajjvou yoAtid vIUIOJITLD Jo suautoads YIIM pajuacoe pure ‘adinds asauede[ jo ssuljueyd jod -IU¥) IO} ssulspa se ‘sadspay poOMxod YIM peq[y A} ]CULIOF uapies suisvald jo uoLAAsN]]I JUaTJaoXa UY “AXX ALVIG TREES AND SHRUBS FOR FLOWERING EFFECTS 159 Rhododendron (white) Rhododendron Rhodotypos kerrioides White Kerria Robinia pseudacacia Sambucus canadensis Black Locust American Elder Rosa alba Sambucus racemosa White-flowered Rose Red-berried Elder Rosa lucida alba Spiraea prunifolia White-flowered Glossy Rose Bridal Wreath Stewartia pentagyna Alleghany Stewartia Rosa multiflora Japanese Climbing Rose Rosa spinosissima Scotch Rose H. Propucinc BiuEe Fiowers. The group of plants producing blue flowers is extremely limited. A few plants which are shown in this list are extremely interesting for their flowering effect and with the exception of the rose of Sharon and the lilac, many of them are seldom used. Amorpha fruticosa False Indigo Buddleia veitchiana Summer Lilac Caryopteris incana Blue Spirea Elsholtzia stauntont Elsholtzia Hibiscus syriacus ardens Blue Rose of Sharon Paulownia tomentosa Empress Tree Syringa vulgaris, President Grevy Double Blue Lilac Vitex agnus-castus Chaste Tree I. Continuous BLoom From TWELVE SHRuBS. The reader should be able to refer to some list such as the following, which will provide him with a ready reference for the selection of shrubs giving a succession of bloom. ‘The plants in this group, if properly arranged, will develop an interesting succession of bloom from the early spring until the late fall. Chaenomeles japonica Philadelphus coronarius Japanese Quince i Common Mock Orange Diervilla hybrida Hybrid Weigela Forsythia suspensa Drooping Golden Bell Mibiscus syriacus Rose of Sharon Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora Large-flowered Hydrangea Lonicera tatarica Tartarian Honeysuckle Sorbaria arborea glabrata . Chinese Mountain Ash Spirea Spiraea bumalda anthony waterer Crimson Spirea Spiraea vanhoutter — Van Houtte’s Bridal Wreath Syringa vulgaris hybrida Hybrid Lilac Viburnum americanum American High-bush Cranberry CHAPTER XX PLANTS VALUABLE FOR THE CHARACTERISTICS OF THEIR FRUIT Tue charm of many landscape plantings during fall and early winter months is due almost entirely to the interesting effects produced by the fruit of various trees, shrubs, and vines. ‘Too little attention is given to the landscape value of plants because of their fruiting characteristics. It is the general impression that plants for landscape value have completed their greatest purpose when they have produced their foliage and flowers. As a matter of fact, instances may be common within the recollection of everyone where some interesting touch of colour in the landscape has been noticed and on further study has been found due entirely to the colour effect coming from a mass of hanging fruit. To those people who occupy their permanent homes only during the fall and winter months, and whose greatest enjoyment from their land- scape plantings should be produced by the fruiting effects, this is an important problem. It is admitted that many of our plants, such as the horse-chestnut, tree of heaven, honey locust, and hackberry, produce fruit which because of its littering habit is objectionable. These plants, however, are very few. ‘The list of plants which produce fruit valuable because of certain characteristics such as interesting form and size, colour effects, and the ability to retain the fruit during the later winter months, includes many of our trees, shrubs, and vines that are valuable for their flowering effects also. This question is such an important one that each of the groups should be taken up in an in- dividual discussion. The value of plants for their fruits which attract our many bird friends presents such an interesting study that this has been taken up as a distinct part of this chapter. Among plants useful on the more refined lawn areas, where the de- tailed development of landscape plants is one of the most interesting features, there are a number of plants, such as the burning bush, cu- cumber tree, and the oriental plane, representative of the group pro- 160 PLANTS FOR FRUIT CHARACTERISTICS 161 ducing fruit singularly interesting and conspicuous because of its form. There are other trees such as the Kentucky coffee tree, the western catalpa, and the tulip tree, the fruit of which is interesting on account of its size. One of the most interesting characteristics of fruit is its colour. From the clear white fruit of the grey dogwood to the brilliant red fruit of the thorn there is a wonderful variation in colour effect produced by fruits. The beauty fruit, with its brilliant porcelain- blue berries, adds an interesting touch of colour to landscape plantings nearly as effective as that of flowers, if not more so. In many of these shrubs, such as some varieties of the thorn, the honey- suckle, and the elder, the beautiful colours of the fruit against the background of green foliage are extremely effective. The great majority of our shrubs retain their fruit for a greater or less period after the leaves have fallen. With the first signs of freezing and real winter weather these fruits rapidly wither and decay and those which are not removed by the birds soon drop from the plants. The fruit of the elderberries, roses, blue berries, and honeysuckles is dropped well before the middle of December, and even as early as the first of Decem- ber. Inthe average winter the fruit of the dogwoods, the spindle tree, the snowberry, and the burning bush retain their interesting colour until the early part of January. Of this group of plants there are many which retain their fruit well into the winter months. The Japanese barberry and the winterberry or deciduous holly hold their fruit much longer than the other plants, while the brilliantly coloured fruit of the bittersweet, the thorn, and the high-bush cranberry re- mains until the really severe winter weather begins. From a landscape point of view there is nothing much more effective in a pictorial com- position than the brilliantly coloured fruit and brilliantly coloured twigs of many of our trees and shrubs presented against a background of snow. LIST OF PLANTS VALUABLE FOR THE CHARACTERISTICS OF THEIR FRUIT A. Propucine Fruit oF PECULIARLY INTERESTING Form or SIZE. This group consists of types of plants which produce fruit that has a landscape value on account of its peculiarly interesting form and size. Practically all of our trees and shrubs produce fruit, but only those having fruit which is of real landscape value are listed in this and in succeeding groups. 162 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Asimina triloba Liquidambar styraciflua Paw-Paw Sweet Gum Catalpa speciosa Liriodendron tulipifera Western Catalpa Tulip Tree Cephalanthus occidentalis Maclura pomifera Button Bush Osage Orange Colutea arborescens Magnolia acuminata Bladder Senna Cucumber Tree Diospyros virginiana Platanus orientalis Persimmon Oriental Plane Evonymus atropurpureus Burning Bush Gleditsia triacanthos Honey Locust Gymnocladus dioica Kentucky Coffee Tree Pyrus baccata (in variety) Siberian Flowering Crab Staphylea pinnata European Bladder-nut Staphylea trifolia American Bladder-nut Fruit Trees (in variety) B. Propucinc Fruir VALUABLE For Its CoLour Errects. The ‘colour effect of fruit may be equally as effective as the colour effect of flowers. Some fruit is effective as a combination of colour against the background of green foliage. Other fruit is effective because of its colour at a season of the year when the foliage is gone. Many more plants should be used for the colour effect of the fruit than are now seen in our landscape plantings. Acer rubrum Red Maple Aralia spinosa Hercules Club Berberis (in variety) Barberry Callicarpa purpurea Beauty Fruit Celastrus scandens American Bittersweet Chionanthus virginica White Fringe Colutea arborescens Bladder Senna Cornus alba sibirica Siberian Dogwood Cornus alternifolia Alternate-leaved Dogwood Cornus florida Flowering Dogwood Cornus paniculata Grey Dogwood Cornus stolontfera Red Osier Cornel Cotoneaster dielsiana Chinese Cotoneaster Cotoneaster divaricata Cotoneaster Cotoneaster horizontalis perpusilla Hybrid Prostrate Cotoneaster Cotoneaster hupehensis Cotoneaster Cotoneaster multiflora calocarpa Cotoneaster Cotoneaster racemiflora Cotoneaster Cotoneaster salicifolia floccosa Cotoneaster Crataegus (in variety) Thorn Eleagnus longipes Japanese Oleaster Evonymus alatus Cork-barked Burning Bush PLANTS FOR FRUIT CHARACTERISTICS 163 Evonymus americanus Strawberry Bush Evonymus atropurpureus Burning Bush Evonymus europaeus European Spindle Tree Hippophae rhamnoides Sea Buckthorn Ilex crenata Japanese Holly Ilex opaca American Holly Ilex verticillata Winterberry Ligustrum (in variety) Privet Lonicera morrowt Japanese Bush Honeysuckle Lonicera tatarica Tartarian Honeysuckle Myrica cerifera _ Bayberry Physocarpus opulifolius Ninebark Pyracantha coccinea Evergreen Thorn Rhodotypos kerrioides White Kerria Rhus glabra Smooth Sumac Berberis (in variety) Barberry Celastrus scandens American Bitter-sweet Crataegus (in variety) Thorn Ilex opaca American Holly Tlex verticillata Winterberry Ligustrum tbota Japanese Privet Rhus typhina Staghorn Sumac Rosa blanda Meadow Rose Rosa multiflora Japanese Climbing Rose Rosa rubiginosa Sweet Brier Rosa rubrifolia Red-leaved Rose Rosa rugosa Japanese Rose Sambucus canadensis American Elder Sambucus racemosa Red-berried Elder Sorbus aucuparia European Mountain Ash Staphylea trifolia American Bladder-nut Symphoricarpos racemosus Snowberry Symphoricarpos vulgaris Indian Currant Symplocus paniculata Japanese Sweet Leaf Vaccinium (in variety) Blueberry Viburnum (in variety) Viburnum C. Propucinc Fruit VaLuas_te Durinc THE WINTER Monts. The group of trees and shrubs which retain interesting fruit well into the winter months is comparatively limited. A few of these plants should be in every landscape planting to give a touch of colour and life during the dead winter months. Ligustrum vulgare European Privet Myrica cerifera Bayberry - Pyracantha coccinea Evergreen Thorn Rhodotypos kerrioides White Kerria Rhus glabra Smooth Sumac Rhus typhina Staghorn Sumac 164 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Rosa blanda Viburnum americanum Meadow Rose American High Bush Cranberry Rosa multiflora Viburnum dilatatum Japanese Climbing Rose Japanese Bush Cranberry Rosa rugosa Viburnum opulus Japanese Rose High-bush Cranberry PLANTS USED FOR ATTRACTING BIRDS It is often advisable, in the making of landscape plantings, to use trees and shrubs which possess ornamental values from a landscape viewpoint, and which also produce fruit that attracts various species of birds. It is sometimes possible to use these plants in large groups, while in other instances it is advisable to use such plants as specimens at intervals in the proposed plantings. This type of plant must be one which produces fruit or seed pods which can be eaten by the birds. In this manner a large number of birds may be kept on many home grounds throughout the different months of the year, especially if plants are selected which attract the birds in these different months. It is much easier to select a group of plants which will attract birds during the winter months when no food is available than it is to choose plants which will attract birds during the summer months when food is plentiful. There are many plants, such as sumacs, mulberries, blackberry- lilies, jewel weeds, and hazels, which should be used, occasionally, be- cause their main value is the value of their fruit for the feeding of birds, while they possess a very minor value for ornamental landscape plant- ing. On the other hand, there is a surprisingly large list of plants which are desirable and which are grown commercially in the nursery for use in ordinary landscape planting which do not produce valuable fruit. In this list the reader will readily note that different kinds of shrubs produce fruit which attracts different kinds of birds. The owner of an estate should therefore know the birds which generally frequent the locality in question and should use plants producing fruit attractive to these species of bird life. ‘There are many shrubs the fruit of which is either too hard or too acid for birds to eat, such as the following: privets, sweet shrub, and bladder-nut. To successfully attract birds a plant must possess certain require- ments such as ability to produce a quantity of edible fruit, to afford shelter from the extreme heat of bright sunny days, shelter from wind, PLANTS FOR FRUIT CHARACTERISTICS 165 and to provide sufficient seclusion so that certain types of birds may be protected from the view of persons. On another page there is a list of plants which are used during the growing season to attract birds and to keep them away from the fruits in the garden, particularly the berries. In fact, many farmers, as well as the owners of ornamental plantings, have found that cultivated fruits are greatly protected from damage if wild fruit is plentiful in that special locality, and that they are subject to much damage where wild fruit is scarce. An interesting point in the discussion of plants used for attracting birds is the fact that many birds feed upon fleshy fruits in order to obtain the water which they contain. Therefore the presence of bird baths on home grounds, where cultivated fruits require protection, will often keep many of the birds away from the fruit. The barberries, snowballs, sumacs, elderberries, bush honeysuckles, mulberries, bitter-sweets, and wild grapes attract the greater number of birds. D. Propucinc Fruit VALUABLE FoR ATTRACTING Birps. There are numerous species of trees, shrubs, and vines, which are not only useful in a decorative way, but also add much to the interest of a place, attracting the birds by their fruit. Plants found in this list are among the most important for furnishing food for birds. The names of the birds which feed upon the various fruits follow the plant list. The numbers after each plant in this list correspond with the index number of the birds in List c. a. Fruiting in summer: Amelanchier (in variety)—1, 2, 5, 7, 10, 12, Le, 28,215.20: Shad-bush Ampelopsis quinquefolia—2, 7, 11, 14, 17, 18, 19, 26. Virginia Creeper Aronia (in variety)—9Q, 10, 12, 13. Chokeberry Benzoin aestivale—t11, 17, 19, 26. Spice Bush Berberis (in variety)—5, 7, 11, 14, 17, 18, 19, 26. Barberry Celtis occidentalis—1, 2, 5, 7, 18, 26. Nettle Tree Cornus (in variety)—1I, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10, 12, 13, 15, 17). 38, 19, 20; 22, 245 26. Dogwood Gaultheria procumbens—1i0, 13, 9, 5- Wintergreen Lonicera (in variety)—9, 10, 12, 13. Honeysuckle Morus rubra—t, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10, II, 12, 14, 15, 16,\07,-08, 19,20; 225'24, 26. Red Mulberry Nyssa sylvatica—4, 12, 18, 17, 22, 26. Tupelo Prunus (in variety)—1, 4, 5, 7, 10, 12, 14, 15, 105 220255 20. Cherry and Plum 166 Rubus (in variety)—1, 2, 12, 18, 19. Brambles Sambucus (in variety)—I, 2, 4, 5, 7, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 22, 24, 26, Ider Symphoricarpos (in variety)—9, 10, 12, 13. Indian Currant and Snowberry THE COMPLETE GARDEN Vaccinium (in variety)—4, 5, 7, I, 125 14, 18, 19, 26. Blueberry Vitis (in variety)—I, 5, 7, 11, 12, 14, 175 18, 19, 22, 26. Grape b. Holding fruit into the winter months: Celastrus (in variety)—2, 11, 17, 18, 26. Bitter-sweet Crataegus coccinea—7, 11, 12, 18. Scarlet-fruited Thorn Crataegus cordata—7, 11, 12. Washington Thorn Crataegus crus-galli—7, 11, 12, 18. Cockspur Thorn Crataegus oxycantha—7, 11, 12, 18. May Thorn Evonymus (in variety)—2, 18, 19, 26. Burning Bush and Spindle Tree Ilex opaca—z2, 7, 17, 18, 26. American Holly Ilex verticillata—2, 7, 17, 18, 26. Winterberry Juniperus (in variety)—2, 5, 6, 9, 10, 14, 16;/17, 58, 19, 245.255 20- Red Cedar Lonicera (in variety)—9, 10, 12, 13. Honeysuckle Myrica cerifera—t, 6, 7, 11, 14, 17, 18, 19, 20, 25, 26. Bayberry Rhamnus (in variety) —4, 5, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15,22. Buckthorn Rhus (in variety)—1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10, II, 12, 14, 17, 18, 19, 20, 22, 24, 255 20. Sumac Sorbus (in variety)—2, 5, 9, 10, 11, 18, 19, 26. Mountain Ash Symphoricarpos (in variety) 9, 10, 12, 13. Snowberry and Indian Currant Tsuga canadensis Canadian Hemlock Viburnum (in variety) except variety americanum—z2, 5, 7, 11, 17, 18, 19, 22, 25, 26. Viburnum Hips of the following roses are eaten by many species of birds. Rosa blanda Meadow Rose Rosa carolina Carolina Rose Rosa lucida Glossy Rose Rosa multiflora Japanese Climbing Rose Rosa nitida Shining-leaved Rose Rosa rubiginosa Sweet Brier Rosa rubrifolia Red-leaved Rose Rosa rugosa and single hybrids Japanese Rose Rosa setigera Prairie Rose Rosa spinosissima Scotch Rose Rosa wichuraiana Memorial Rose c. Birds attracted by the fruit. The following is a tabulation of the interesting types of birds which are attracted by the various PLANTS FOR FRUIT CHARACTERISTICS 167 kinds of fruit grown on the plants in list XX-D—a and b. The numbers appearing after the names of the plants on Pages 165 and 166 refer to the numbers opposite the names of the different birds in the follow- ing list. All of these birds feed upon one or more of the kinds of fruit shown on the preceding pages. 1. Blackbird 10. Grosbeak 19. Sparrow 2. Bluebird 11. Grouse 20. Swallow 3. Bobolink 12. Jay 21. Tanager 4. Catbird 13. Junco 22. Thrasher 5. Cedarbird 14. Kingbird 23. Thrush 6. Chickadee 15. Oriole 24. Vireo 7. Crow 16. Phoebe 25. Warbler 8. Cuckoo 17. Quail 26. Woodpecker g. Finch 18. Robin E. Propucine Fruit Wuicy Attracts Birps Away From OTHER Fruit. Mulberries and shad-bushes will protect cherries and straw- berries. Elders, Virginia creeper, and black cherry will protect grapes. Elders and mulberries will protect raspberries and blackberries. F. Propucinc Fruir Wuicu Orren MakEs THE PLant UNDEsIR- ABLE IN LANDSCAPE PLANTING. Aesculus hippocastanum Celtis occidentalis Common Horse-chestnut Nettle Tree Ailanthus glandulosa Tree of Heaven Catalpa (in variety) laa Bean — Nut Trees (in variety) Gleditsia triacanthos Honey Locust CHAPTER XXI TREES AND SHRUBS BEARING COLOURED TWIGS THE trees and shrubs in the following list are those whose twigs are coloured sufficiently to make them of value from a landscape stand- point. The colour effect of twigs may be interesting from two points of view: either because of the vivid colouring, such as is seen in the red-twigged dogwood, and in the glossy rose, or of the general tone of colour such as seen in the American olive and the golden-barked willow, in which the colour as a mass is much more effective at a dis- tance than upon close examination. ' Many of the interesting shrubs included in this group are often- times selected because of the sharp contrast between the colour of their twigs and the white background of snow or the green background of evergreens during the winter months. ‘This is especially true of the birches and the dogwoods. In fact, there is equally as much interest ‘during the winter months in a planting of this kind, properly de- veloped, as in the difference of foliage effects during the summer months. It is a feature of landscape plantings to which very little ‘attention has been given and one which demands careful study in order to be successfully worked out. On extensive lawn areas, in our parks and large private estates, many specimens of these plants can be tucked away in large groups, where during the winter months the colour effect of the twigs will lend an interesting tone and more feeling of life to the otherwise mo- notonous effect of the background. The development of many vistas is oftentimes emphasized through the careful selection of such plants as the birches, willows, and Russian olive, to give the feeling of greater depth in the landscape picture. Such specimens, planted in the immediate background, with a heavy texture of planting in the foreground, will greatly add to the suggested feeling of distance. The plants included in this group are those which carry an interest- ing and vivid colour of the branches and twigs throughout the winter 168 COLOURED TWIGS ae months. In the great majority of plants the new twigs show an in- teresting colour for perhaps part of the year, usually during the early spring months when the sap begins to flow. Later the colour becomes softened or deadened and it does not carry through to the late fall and winter. There are practically no shrubs which can be selected for the colour of their twigs during the summer months. It is not necessary to select plants for this purpose because there are so many other equally interesting effects to be obtained from flowers and foliage. The first two years’ growth, especially the first year’s growth on any tree or shrub, the twigs of which have a definite colour, is much brighter than the colour of the twigs after they are more than two years old and are becoming definite branches of the plant. This is a suggestion that severe pruning, or cutting back, will often enhance the effect, as in the case of the red-twigged dogwood. Twigs are also extremely interesting because of the markings. The tamanix and silky dogwood are types to study in detail as well as being valuable for the mass colour effect seen at a distance. Colour effects of twigs form the most interesting feature of land- scape twig effects, and yet the coverings of older branches and tree trunks on many trees are very effective in summer and winter. Every tree has its individual markings of trunk and branches, of great in- terest to the landscape student. The white oak, white birch, plane tree, and hackberry, with their peculiar bark, are valuable in landscape planting. LIST OF TREES AND SHRUBS BEARING COLOURED TWIGS This list consists of types of plants which are extremely interesting because of the colour effect of their twigs. A memorandum is indi- cated opposite each type showing the special colour effect which is produced if the twigs are less than two years old. As twigs grow older the colour of the bark becomes more neutral, and consequently these plants should be frequently pruned in order to produce new growth with its more vivid colour effects. Acer pennsylvanicum—striped green— Betula populifolia—white bark white branches American White Birch Striped Maple Betula nigra—reddish brown bark Red Birch Betula papyrifera—white bark Cornus alba sibirica—coral-red branches Paper Birch Siberian Dogwood Cornus alba—blood-red branches Red-twigged Dogwood 170 Cornus paniculata—grey bark Grey Dogwood Cornus sanguinea viridissima—green twigs Green-stemmed Dogwood Cornus stolonifera flavirammea—yellow ar Golden-twigged Osier Elaeagnus (in variety)—silvery bark American Olive Fagus americana—grey bark American Beech Forsythia viridissima branches Dark-green Golden Bell Kerria japonica—green branches Globe Flower — dark green THE COMPLETE GARDEN Platanus ortentalis—white bark Oriental Plane Populus tremuloides — silvery green branches Trembling Aspen Rosa blanda—reddish purple twigs Meadow Rose Rosa lucida—reddish twigs Glossy Rose Rosa lucida alba—greenish twigs White-flowered Glossy Rose Salix alba—yellowish bark White Willow Salix vitellina aurea—golden yellow Golden-barked Willow Salix vitellina britzensis—reddish bronze Hybrid Yellow Willow CHAPTER XXII PLANTS VALUABLE BECAUSE OF THE AUTUMN COLOURATION OF THE LEAVES One of the most charming features of our northern landscapes, es- pecially through the northeastern United States where such a great variety of deciduous trees are indigenous, is the autumn colouration of the foliage. During the normal growing seasons, when ample rains have fallen and the trees are full with sap at the end of the season, the autumn colours are much more vivid than during a dry season. It is extremely important in designing landscape plantings that thought should be given to the fruiting effects during the fall and winter months and also to the autumn colours of the foliage of our trees and shrubs. A small touch of colour in the border shrub plantings of the average lawn is usually the difference between an uninteresting and an interesting planting at that season of the year. Every planting should have introduced into it a few plants which, if not valuable for their fruiting and flowering characteristics, will produce a touch of colour as accents to relieve the monotony of the dead greens and browns during late September and October. Autumn colouration is the result of an interesting physiological function within the plant. Contrary to the average opinion that autumn colour is the result of sharp freezes, the presence of frost serves but in a slight degree to hasten this colouring, because the degree ‘of cold necessary to produce a freeze further retards the flow of any sap. The production of the vivid autumn colours is caused by a devitalized or increasingly dormant condition of the plant. The lessened flow of new sap to the leaves, caused by the formation, of corky tissue at the extreme base of the leaf to cover and protect the leaf scar during the winter months, results in a chemical reaction of the acids within the leaf itself. The results of this chemical re- action are evident in the autumn colours. The factors determining the kind and degree of autumn colouration is the presence of different 171 172 THE COMPLETE GARDEN acids within the leaf. These acids are present constantly in their respective types of plants. It is a peculiar fact that in some trees autumn colouration is much more vivid than in other trees, because of the presence of certain acids the chemical reaction of which produces these vivid colours. The autumn colouration of foliage ranges from the dull browns through the yellows and orange to the brilliant red and scarlet. Some of our trees and shrubs such as the red maple, Judas tree, sourwood, sumac, and sassafras, develop their autumn colours during the early part of the fall. In these trees growth |stops early in the season and the wood matures more quickly. There is one group of plants such as the Virginia creeper, Thunberg’s barberry, red oak, high- bush cranberry, and arrow-wood, in which the autumn colouration is produced shortly after the early trees have shown their autumn colours. The American beech, golden bell, scarlet oak, and burning bush, and some others mature and ripen last of all and are included in the group with late autumn colouration. With the great oppor- tunity for selection of trees and shrubs from these three well-defined groups a succession, if it may be so termed, of autumn colouration may be obtained, which will supplement and add interest to the fruit- ing effects produced by a well-selected group of plants valuable for the characteristics of their fruit. One has only to observe our native trees and shrubs in the north- east to appreciate the wonderful colour effects which are produced during the autumn months and are evidenced on all of our hillsides. So seldom are shrubs selected for landscape grouping with a specific intention of emphasizing their value because of autumn colouration, that we find there are few good illustrations, and those at scattered intervals, showing the autumn colours and their values in the settings of our lawns. LIST OF PLANTS VALUABLE BECAUSE OF THE AUTUMN COLOURATION OF THE LEAVES The plants in the following three groups have been separated and grouped because of the interesting colour effects of the foliage. The most important factor in selecting plants for the autumn colouration of their foliage is to select material which will provide a succession of colour from early fall to late fall. The colours produced by the foliage of the different types are indicated after each type. PLANTS FOR AUTUMN COLOURATION 173 A. Early: Acer ginnala (scarlet) Siberian Maple Acer maine (yellow) Box Elder Acer rubrum (scarlet) Red Maple Acer saccharum (red) Sugar Maple Betula lutea (yellow) Yellow Birch Betula nigra (yellow) ed Birch Cercidiphyllum japonicum (yellow to crimson) Kadsura Tree Cercis canadensis (yellow) Red-bud B. Medium: Acer palmatum (red) Japanese Maple Amelanciger (bright yellow) Shad-bush Ampelopsis quinquefolia (red) Virginia Creeper Berberis thunbergi (scartet) Thunberg’s Japanese Barberry Carpinus caroliniana (orange) American Hornbeam Cotoneaster (in variety) (red) Cotoneaster Crataegus (in variety) (orange to red) horn Fraxinus americana (yellow) White Ash Carya alba (rich brown) Hickory Ci Late= a. Coloured foliage. Acer platanoides (green) Norway Maple Cladrastis lutea (yellow) Yellow-wood Chionanthus virginica (yellow) White Fringe Koelreuteria paniculata (yellow) Varnish Tree Liquidambar styraciflua (scarlet) Sweet Gum Liriodendron tulipifera (yellow) Tulip Tree Oxydendrum arboreum (scarlet) Sourwood Platanus orientalis (yellow) Oriental Plane Rhus typhina (scarlet) Staghorn Sumac Sassafras officinale (orange and scarlet) Common Sassafras Ulmus americana (yellow) American Elm Hydrangea quercifolia (yellow) Oak-leaved Hydrangea Nyssa sylvatica (red) upelo Quercus rubra (red) Red Oak Quercus velutina (orange and red) Black Oak Rhus canadensis (red) Fragrant Sumac Ribes aureum (yellow) Flowering Currant Vaccinium corymbosum (crimson) High-bush Blueberry Viburnum acerifolium (purple) Maple-leaved Viburnum Viburnum dentatum (red) Arrow-wood Cornus florida (scarlet) Flowering Dogwood Evonymus alatus (scarlet) Cork-barked Burning Bush 174 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Esonymus atropurpureus (red) Mahonia aquifolium (bronze) Burning Bush Oregon Grape Evonymus europaeus (red) Myrica cerifera (bronze) European Spindle Tree Bayberry Fagus americana (rich yellow) Ostrya virginica (yellow) American Beech Hop Hornbeam Forsythia viridissima ipurpte) Pieris floribunda (bronze) Dark Green Golden Bell Mountain Fetterbush Ginkgo biloba (yellow) Quercus alba (purple) Maidenhair Tree White Oak Hamamelis virginiana (yellow) Quercus coccinea (scarlet) Witch Haze Scarlet oak b. Green Foliage. Some trees and shrubs are exceedingly inter- esting in the landscape composition because of the varying and vivid colours of their autumn foliage, ranging from brown or brownish yel- low, through to vivid scarlet and bright red. There is another group of shrubs which are not so valuable because of the autumn colour of their foliage, but because of the fact that their foliage is retained until extremely late in the fall, or possibly into the early winter. Such shrubs as the privets, and many others shown in this list, are very valuable in landscape plantations where the owner cannot, because of climatic or soil conditions, resort to the use of evergreens, and is still desirous of producing a foliage effect that will serve as a background or a screen until late into October or early November. Many of these shrubs are somewhat tender and the fact that they do carry their leaves unchanged until late in the autumn often shows that they are not able to mature their wood during a nor- mal growing season. Since they often do not mature their leaves they are also liable to go into the winter with tender wood. Many of the shrubs given in this list should therefore not be planted in exposed places. 1. Shrubs: Abelia grandiflora Cotoneaster horizontalis Hybrid Abelia Prostrate Cotoneaster Aralia pentaphyla Eleagnus multiflora rotundifolia Five-leaved Angelica Round-leaved Gumi Berberis wilsonae Evonymus bungeanus semipersistens Wilson’s Barberry Half-evergreen Spindle Tree Chaenomeles japonica Fontanesia fortunet Japanese Quince Fortune’s Fontanesia Cotoneaster adpressa Forsythia viridissima Creeping Cotoneaster Dark green Golden Bell (O-IAX dnois ‘of1 aBed 99g) = -syjuoWw J9qUIM 2y? SULINP sasnoyuseids [ood UI pasojs are s9—a13 asayT “punosd aya ut paqueyd aq ued yuejd yusueULed ou a1ayM s3ods je uayjo szurod juss" adnpoid 0} suapies usayioU ayi Jo Aueut ut pormbar st sqn} url saan-Aeg joasnoyy “[TAXX ALVIg (&-q-[AX Anois ‘gh1 aded 99) ‘ssUIpP]ing ad1AJas ay) pur vaie UME] 94} UdAAMJAq UIIIIS PI[Os B se SaAJaS JUO STyI Ng ‘8ST ased ‘ATX X ‘ON 93¥][g UO uMOYs se ainjvay Suljsaiajul Jsour e ATUO JOU WIOJ ALU daq]e peyseaid YW "TIAXX dLv1g PLANTS FOR AUTUMN COLOURATION 175 Hypericum buckleyi Buckley’s St. John’s Wort Hypericum patulum henryi Hybrid St. John’s Wort Ligustrum japonicum Evergreen Privet Ligustrum ovalifolium California Privet pen vulgare sempervirens alf-evergreen European Privet Ligustrum amurense Amoor River Privet Lonicera fragrantissima Early Fragrant Honeysuckle Lonicera sempervirens Coral Honeysuckle Lonicera standishi Standish’s Bush Honeysuckle Viburnum macrocephalum Chinese Snowball Viburnum opulus nanum Dwarf Bush Cranberry Viburnum rhytidophyllum Evergreen Viburnum Viburnum sieboldi Siebold’s Viburnum Vines: Akebia lobata Divided-leaved Akebia Akebia quinata Five-leaved Akebia Clematis paniculata Japanese Clematis Lonicera japonica halliana Japanese Honeysuckle Smilax hispida Prickly Greenbrier CHAPTER XXIII FAST-GROWING TYPES VALUABLE FOR PRODUCING SCREEN EFFECTS Ir oFTEN becomes necessary to find some fast-growing type of tree or shrub to produce an immediate screen. ‘This is especially true in the development of new landscapes where a foliage effect is desired and the more permanent types of shrubs in the planta- tion require a longer period to produce the desired effect. In such instances the more rapid-growing types of shrubs may be planted and removed after the first one or two years, at which time the more permanent types have developed far enough so that during the suc- ceeding years they will produce the effect which the designer had in mind when they were first selected. ‘The great danger in using quick- growing types of temporary materials for immediate effects lies in the fact that for the success of such plantations the owner must have the “courage of his convictions” and remove the temporary types of material when the time comes that they are beginning to crowd and to injure the more permanent types. In other instances, where it is necessary to screen service buildings or blank walls of other buildings such quick-growing types of trees and shrubs as the ailanthus, poplars, willows, and elders may be planted. The ailanthus especially is used to form a mass of foliage against service buildings and blank walls during the summe rmonths, but this tree is cut back each year to a height of three or four feet and the new growth produces the effect during the next year. The fast-growing types of trees and shrubs often used to produce quick effects are correspondingly short lived. Those trees and shrubs which grow rapidly, mature and decay nearly as rapidly. Very few of these types should be placed in permanent plantings. This list consists of two distinct groups of fast-growing material: that group of which the ailanthus, poplar, willow, and elder are typical, being the very rapid-growing types of material, and that group of which the remaining trees and shrubs are typical being rapid-growing types 176 FAST-GROWING TYPES FOR SCREEN EFFECTS 177 which are more or less permanent in their character of growth. The types contained in this last group establish themselves much more quickly than trees and shrubs of a similar kind, which require a longer period after transplanting before making a normal growth. Such shrubs as the weigela, the ninebark, and the privet are often used to obtain quick mass effects of foliage around the base of buildings in locations where the slower-growing types of shrubs, such as lilacs, bridal wreaths, and snowballs would require a much longer time to develop a similar effect. LIST OF FAST-GROWING TYPES VALUABLE FOR PRODUC- ING SCREEN EFFECTS These groups contain the very fastest growing and most temporary types of trees and shrubs, and the more rapid-growing types of trees and shrubs often used in permanent plantings. Material may be selected from these groups when an immediate foliage effect is desired. A. Trees: Acer negundo Phellodendron amurense Box Elder Chinese Cork Tree Acer saccharinum Picea excelsa Silver Maple Norway Spruce Ailanthus glandulosa Tree of Heaven Catalpa speciosa Western Catalpa Larix europea European Larch Maclura pomifera Osage Orange Morus alba tatarica Mulberry B. Shrubs: Cornus alba sibirica Siberian Dogwood Cornus stolontfera Red Osier Cornel Deutzia crenata Pride of Rochester Large-flowered Deutzia Diervilla florida Rose-coloured Weigela Pinus sylvestris Scotch Pine Platanus orientalts Oriental Plane Populus (in variety) Poplar Robinia pseudacacia Black Locust Salix (in variety) Willow Ligustrum amurense Amoor River Privet Lonicera (in variety) Bush Honeysuckle Philadelphus grandiflorus Large-flowered Mock Orange Physocarpus opultfolius Ninebark Sambucus canadensis American Elder CHAPTER XXIV PLANTS ADAPTED TO VARIOUS TYPES OF SOIL CONDITIONS A VERY important factor in determining the sorts of plants adapted to any specific location is the soil type. By soil type is meant the relative acidity or alkalinity of the soil elements, the relative fineness of the soil particles, and the relative state of dryness of the soil material. All of these conditions overlap and combine with one another and pro- duce soil types which are favourable for certain groups of plants and unfavourable for other groups. The exact physiological reasons why a plant should succeed so much better on one soil type than on another is seldom exactly understood; but practical experience has helped to solve many problems and to bring out many interesting facts. Plants adapted to boggy soils are likely to be shallow-rooted like the elm, and they are able to withstand a soil condition which is poorly aerated and almost invariably acid. In fact, a pond full of alkaline or limy water will generally be found practically devoid of plant life, while in an acid pond plants thrive so that they gradually displace the water as in sphagnum bogs, which were open ponds at one time but have lost that character through the excessive growth of plants. In a true bog there is practically no free drainage except during the spring thaw or flood time. Plants adapted to bog gardens are called bog plants. Perhaps the most prominent of these perennials are the different varieties of the lady-slipper and the pitcher plant. One of the most essential things for the success of bog garden plants is to have a moist condition which does not vary to any marked degree. It is much better to have the ground surrounding the roots of these plants over-saturated than to have the degree of moisture become too much depleted, as the water table throughout the entire area of the bog garden should be main- tained at a constant level and at the same time the water should not be allowed to become stagnant. Ifthe area which is being developed as a bog garden doessnot naturally possess a growth of certain plants which one knows to be indigenous to bog areas then investigation should be 178 VARIOUS TYPES OF SOIL CONDITIONS 179 made to be sure that the artificial bog garden can have moist soil condi- tions which will be congenial to the plants in this location. Peat soils are not only naturally acid but it is believed they con- tain low forms of plant life also which are of great assistance in pro- moting the growth of ericaceous plants that especially thrive on peaty soils. Peat bog soils lack available nitrogen and therefore carnivorous plants occur, such as pitcher plants and sundew. Humic acid is pres- ent and low temperatures are the prevailing ones. The humic acid acts upon the roots of the plants. Plants adapted to peat are likely to be those requiring considerable humus also a cool, moist, deep, loamy soil and a position not in full sun when transplanted. Since in a light, sandy soil the particles are relatively large such a soil is generally well aerated and not retentive of moisture. Thus, plants adapted to such a soil are as a rule very hardy and possessed of a large root system due to the fact that the roots generally have to ex- tend considerable distances in search of water which may fail just when most needed, that is, during summer droughts and winter freeze- ups accompanied by a drying wind. Also since this soil type is well aerated it is not likely to contain much humus or to be acid in char- acter as the aeration or oxidation of the humus removes one cause of the soil acidity. . On the other hand, clay soils are composed of very fine particles, poorly aerated, and are retentive of moisture and tend to be acid in reaction. Therefore, plants adapted to clay soils are generally mois- ture loving, free from large fibrous root systems, and are not nearly so likely to be hardy, especially if removed to another soil type. | Light soils are said to be warmer than heavy ones. What is really meant by that is that the period of growth from spring to autumn is longer on a light soil than on a heavy one. For this reason, plants which start growth early in the spring, like peaches, or bloom late in the autumn, like chrysanthemums, generally succeed better on a light soil. For the present, and until the underlying reasons are better understood, experience will prove the best guide in selecting plants for the different soil types. LIST OF PLANTS ADAPTED TO VARIOUS TYPES OF SOIL CONDITIONS A. Bocecy anv Peary Sorts. Plants in this group have proved their ability to thrive under extremely wet conditions in boggy or peaty THE COMPLETE GARDEN types of soil. The evergreens in this group should never be planted in a soil containing limestone or in a soil which is supplied with water from a source where limestone is present, or be fertilized with bone 180 meal. a. Boggy situations (Trees and Shrubs): Acer rubrum Red Maple Alnus glutinosa Black Alder Alnus incana Speckled Alder Alnus rugosa serrulata Smooth Alder Aronia arbutifolia Red Chokeberry Aronia melanocarpa Black Chokeberry Betula nigra Red Birch Cephalanthus occidentalis Button Bush Chamaecyparis thyoides hite Cedar Clethra alnifolia Sweet Pepper Bush Fraxinus americana White Ash Hypericum densiflorum Bushy St. John’s Wort Ilex verticillata Winterberry Boggy situations (Perennials): Ascelpias rubra Red Milkweed Aster nemoralis Bog Aster Cypripedium candidum Small White Lady’s Slipper Eupatorium verbenaefolium Rough Thoroughwort Gaultheria procumbens Wintergreen Helonias bullata Swamp-pink Solidago neglecta Swamp Goldenrod Itea virginica Virginian Willow Larix laricina Tamarack Nyssa sylvatica Tupelo Picea alba White Spruce Quercus alba White Oak Quercus bicolor Swamp White Oak Quercus palustris Pin Oak Salix (in variety) illow LYaxodium distichum Bald Cypress Thuja occidentalis American Arborvitae Tilia americana American Linden Ulmus americana American Elm Vaccinium (in variety) Blueberry Mitchella repens Partridge Berry Osmunda cinnamomea Cinnamon Fern Osmunda regalis Royal Fern Rhexia virginica Meadow Beauty Rynchospora alba White Beaked-rush Sarracenia purpurea Pitcher Plant VARIOUS TYPES OF SOIL CONDITIONS 181 b. Peaty situations: Kalmia angustifolia Sheep Laurel Kalmia latifolia Mountain Laurel Pieris floribunda Mountain Fetterbush Rhododendron (in variety) Rhododendron Ledum groenlandicum Taxus canadensis Labrador Tea Ground Yew Pachistima canbyi Viburnum nudum Canby’s Mountain Lover Large Withe-rod Xanthorrhiza apitfolia Yellowroot B, Licut, Sanpy Soms. This group contains many hardy types of trees and shrubs which seem to flourish under poor soil conditions. In general they have a deep root system which enables them to obtain moisture and food material during periods of dry weather. a. Trees: Cornus florida Flowering Dogwood Juniperus virginiana Red Cedar Pinus banksiana Jack Pine Pinus rigida Pitch Pine Pinus strobus White Pine b. Shrubs: Azalea nudiflora Pinkster Flower Caragana arborescens Siberian Pea Shrub Comptonia asplenifolia Sweet Fern Cornus mas Cornelian Cherry Cytisus scoparius Scotch Broom Hamamelis virginiana Witch Hazel Hippophae rhamnoides Sea Buckthorn Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora “arge-flowering Hydrangea Pinus sylvestris Scotch Pine Prunus padus commutata Hybrid European Bird Cherry Pyrus baccata (in variety) Siberian Flowering Crab Quercus rubra Red Oak Robinia pseudacacia Black Locust Juniperus communis Common Juniper Mahonia aquifolium Oregon Grape Myrica cerifera Bayberry Prunus maritima Beach Plum Rhamnus cathartica Common Buckthorn Rhus canadensis Fragrant Sumac Rosa rugosa Japanese Rose Salix tristis Dwarf Grey Willow 182 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Sophora viciifolia Tamarix (in variety) Sophora Tamarisk Spiraea vanhouttet Vaccinium corymbosum Van Houtte’s Bridal Wreath High-bush Blueberry Symphoricarpos vulgaris Viburnum (in variety) Indian Currant Viburnum c. Vines: Actinidia (in variety) Lontcera japonica halliana Silver Vine Japanese Honeysuckle Ampelopsis quinquefolia Lycium halimifolium Virginia Creeper Matrimony Vine Celastrus (in variety) Vitis (in variety) Bitter-sweet Grape C. Heavy Types oF Sorts. Most of the plants in this group are not of a deep-rooted type and are better adapted for use in the heavy types of soil. These plants, under normal conditions, should be planted in heavy clay soil which is not well drained. ‘This list is compiled for reference where the extreme of clayey soil conditions exist and a particularly safe group of plants is desired from which to select. a. Trees: Abies balsamea Larix europaea Balsam Fir European Larch Abies brachyphylla Larix laricina Nikko Fir Tamarack Abies veitcht Larix leptolepsis Veitch’s Silver Fir Japanese Larch Acer rubrum Picea excelsa Red Maple Norway Spruce Acer saccharum Pinus strobus Sugar Maple White Pine Catalpa bignonioides Thuja occidentalis Indian Bean American Arborvitae Fagus (in variety) Tsuga canadensis Beech Canadian Hemlock b. Shrubs: Aralia (in variety) Corylus avellana Angelica Tree Filbert Berberis thunbergi Diervilla trifida Thunberg’s Japanese Barberry Bush Honeysuckle Calycanthus floridus Halesia carolina Strawberry Shrub Silver Bell Cornus (in variety) Hamamelis virginiana Dogwood Witch Hazel Viburnum (native varieties) Viburnum VARIOUS TYPES OF SOIL CONDITIONS 183 c. Vines: Actinidia (in variety) Lonicera japonica halliana Silver Vine Japanese Honeysuckle Akebia quinata Wisteria sinensis Five-leaved Akebia Chinese Wisteria D. Trees ToLeRANT OF ALKALI Soits. ‘Trees which are used in this type of soil should be extremely vigorous in their habit of growth. There is no special reason which can be set forth, from a physiological standpoint as a guide, for selecting types of trees for these conditions. The best and safest guide is the experience of others. (Black Alkali Soils—Sodium Carbonate): Koelreuteria paniculata Varnish Tree (White Alkali Soils.) Ailanthus altissima Populus fremont Tree of Heaven Western Cottonwood Elaeagnus angustifolia Prunus davidiana Russian Olive David’s Flowering Peach Gleditsia triacanthos Quercus lobata Honey Locust (only fairly tolerant) California White Oak Halimodendron halodendron Robinia pseudacacia Salt Tree _ Black Locust Platanus orientalis Ulmus (in variety) Oriental Plane Elm (only fairly tolerant) Note: All varieties of Prunus will thrive in alkali soils if grafted on Prunus davidiana. E. DrouGuHT-REsIsTING PLants. The ability of some plants to resist drought lies not in their ability to extract more water than other plants from the same soil, as commonly supposed, but in their ability to send deep roots after water, or else to cut down the loss of moisture through their tops when soil moisture is scarce. All plants require about the same amount of available moisture in the soil around their roots, to keep them from wilting when growing in the same type of soil. But soil types vary in their ability to give up moisture, and the moisture content in a sandy soil can fall much lower than in a more retentive loam or clay soil before plants begin to wilt. This explains why plants adapted to drought conditions and growing in a sandy soil can survive a period of drought which will seriously injure other plants growing near by upon a,clay loam soil actually containing more water. 184 THE COMPLETE GARDEN All of the plants in the following list possess some characteristic which fits them for growing in dry places and should be chosen for planting in those dry spots upon embankments or on sandy soil where it is so hard to secure results with ordinary herbaceous perennials. While the plants included in this list are called drought-resisting plants they are not such plants as will withstand deliberate abuse through lack of cultiva- tion or other normal care. The attempt to adapt plants of this kind to extreme soil conditions should not be made until a decision has been reached that no changes in soil conditions are practicable or justifiable. Achillea filipendula Oriental Yarrow Anchusa italica Alkanet Anchusa mysotidiflora Caucasian Alkanet Arabts alpina Rock Cress Arenaria montana Sandwort Artemisia abrotanum Southernwood Artemisia stelleriana Beach Wormwood Calandrinia umbellata Rock Purslane Cerastium tomentosum Snow-in-Summer Chetranthus allioni Hybrid Wallflower Dianthus deltoides Maiden Pink Draba axoides Aizoon-like Whitlow Grass Echinops ritro Globe Thistle Erigeron speciosus Oregon Fleabane Eryngium amethystinum Amethyst Sea Holly Euphorbia epithymoides Yellow Wolf’s-milk Glaucium flavum Sea Poppy Helianthemum (in variety) Frostweed Liatris pycnostachya Blazing Star Ltatris scariosa Large Button Snakeroot Linaria dalmatica Dalmatian Toad-flax Lupinus polyphyllus Perennial Lupin Nepeta mussint Catmint Ocenothera fruticosa Sundrops Oenothera speciosa Missouri Evening Primrose Papaver orientale Oriental Poppy Platycodon grandiflorum Balloon Flower Salvia azurea Blue Salvia Salvia pratensis Meadow Sage Santolina chamaecyparisus Lavender Cotton Sedum (in variety) Stonecrop Sempervivum (in variety) Houseleeks Stachys lanata Wooly Woundwort Tunica saxifraga Saxifrage-like Tunica Verbascum olympicum Greek Mullein Verbascum phoenitceum Purple Mullein Verbascum phlomoides Clasping-leaved Mullein Yucca (in variety) Adam’s Needle CHAPTER XXV PLANTS FOR EXPOSED LAKE FRONT AND RIVER CONDITIONS WE HAVE often noticed plantations along exposed lake fronts and river fronts where normal development seems to have been greatly retarded and a considerable loss from winter-killing has been expe- rienced. A definite problem in the selection of plants adapted to these locations is presented, especially where the prevailing winds during the colder periods in the year are from the water. The plant materials listed in this group are selected from those which have been found hardy under the exposed lake front and river front conditions near the Great Lakes and the smaller rivers of the northern portions of the middle west. Many plants which apparently are hardy under the more even and severe climatic conditions of the in- land are not hardy under these water-front conditions. This is largely due to the sudden changes of temperature during the worst of the winter months, and also to the possible effects of the spray freezing on the stems. In general plants which do not ripen their growth until very late in the season are not recommended for use under these conditions. No plants, not even the more hardy types of those included in these lists, will adapt themselves to normal conditions of growth as early as the same plants would adapt themselves under inland con- ditions of climate and atmosphere. A greater percentage of loss will be experienced and the only practical method for obtaining a complete planting is by careful addition and replacement during the first three or four years. It is necessary for much of this material to become ac- climated to these more severe conditions, and it may be advisable at times to plant some of the more rapid-growing trees and shrubs as a partial protection during the first two or three years. It is preferable that material used on the steeper slopes of river fronts and lake fronts should possess a deep root system which will aid in protecting the slopes against erosion. If the slopes are steep 185 186 THE COMPLETE GARDEN and wash badly during periods of rain such types as locust, sumacs, willows, and the matrimony vine will form a deep root system quickly. The process of naturalizing trees and shrubs on the slopes of river banks and lake shores is a slow one. It should never be attempted as a single operation. The material should be young, a great percentage of loss must be expected, and only the “‘survival of the fittest” rule can apply. LIST OF PLANTS FOR EXPOSED LAKE FRONT AND RIVER CONDITIONS The plants in Groups A, B, and C of this list include the hardy types of trees and shrubs. All of these types have been known to thrive under the severe exposures of lake shore and river frontage throughout the northeastern United States. Most of these plants are adapted for use on the slopes so often found along rivers and lakes. A. Trees: Acer ginnala Siberian Maple Alnus glutinosa Black Alder Betula alba i European White Birch Betula popultfolia American White Birch Caragana arborescens Siberian Pea Shrub Crataegus coccinea Scarlet-fruited Thorn Crataegus oxycantha May Thorn Elaeagnus angustifolia Russian Olive Fraxinus americana White Ash Juniperus communis Common Juniper Juniperus virginiana Red Cedar Picea alba White Spruce Picea excelsa Norway Spruce Pinus banksiana Jack Pine Pinus montana mughus Dwarf Mountain Pine Pinus nigra austriaca Austrian Pine Pinus rigida Pitch Pine Pinus sylvestris Scotch Pine Populus balsamifera Balsam Poplar Populus eugenet Carolina Poplar Ptelea trifoliata Hop Tree Pyrus baccata Siberian Flowering Crab Quercus macrocarpa Mossy Cup Oak Robinia pseudacacia Black Locust Salix vitellina Yellow Willow Sorbus americana American Mountain Ash Ulmus americana American Elm EXPOSED LAKE FRONT AND RIVER B. Shrubs: Cornus alba sibtrica Siberian Dogwood Eleagnus argentea Silver Berry Myrica cerifera Bayberry Philadelphus coronarius Common Mock Orange Prunus maritima Beach Plum Rhamnus cathartica Common Buckthorn Rhus canadensis Fragrant Sumac Rhus glabra Smooth Sumac Rhus typhina Staghorn Sumac C. Vines: Actinidia arguta Dark-leaved Silver Vine Actinidia polygama Silver Vine Ampelopsis aconitifolia Cut-leaved Vitis Ampelopsis heterophylla Asiatic Creeper Ampelopsis quinquefolia Virginia Creeper Ribes americanum American Black Currant Rosa rugosa Japanese Rose Salix incana Rosemary Willow Shepherdia canadensis Canadian Buffalo Berry Sorbaria sorbifolia Mountain Ash-leaved Spirea Spiraea tomentosa Hardhack Symphoricarpos occidentalis Wolfberry Syringa vulgaris Common Lilac Viburnum opulus High-bush Cranberry Celastrus scandens American Bittersweet Lonicera japonica halliana Japanese Honeysuckle Lycium halimifolium Matrimony Vine Periploca graeca Silk Vine Smilax sotundifolia Bull Brier Vitis (in variety) 187 CHAPTER XXVI TREES AND SHRUBS FOR SEASIDE PLANTING A PECULIAR situation exists in the relative hardiness of trees and shrubs for seaside exposures. Plants which are entirely hardy on ex- posed river front and fresh water locations are apt not to thrive at the seaside, especially along the Maine Coast and the more exposed points of New England. Where the climatic conditions of the winter are not extremely severe, as on Long Island and the .points farther south, most of the hardy trees and shrubs are well adapted. ‘There are loca- tions on the exposed frontages of the Great Lakes where conditions are equally as severe as are conditions on the east coast of the northeastern United States. The salt air condition and the salt spray during the winter months does not become a factor, however, in lake front ex- posures. Perhaps the most severe conditions of seaside exposure in the country are along the shores of Penobscot Bay and the Maine Coast. In all ornamental plantings in these locations it has been a question of experimenting to determine the trees and shrubs to be used to with- stand the extreme and severe conditions of the winter months. The growing season is short. Therefore trees and shrubs which require a longer ripening period in the mid-summer and early fall months are subject to considerable winter-killing because of the immature condition of the wood when freezing weather begins. This same factor also deprives the early spring-flowering shrubs of the wood which produces flowers on buds formed the year before. The de- ciduous trees which are hardy along the coast of Maine are those which are indigenous to that section such as beeches, red oaks, willows, and red maples. None of the more refined types of evergreens, with the exception of the red cedar and the prostrate juniper, have proved hardy in these locations. The American arborvitae in many instances is hardy, and in others has not proved hardy. The white cypress is rarely seen. A number of shrubs which are included in this list have proved themselves extremely hardy and able to develop into mature 188 TREES AND SHRUBS FOR SEASIDE PLANTING 189 types which make excellent specimens and good mass plantings. The location considered in this discussion is along the northeast shore, where the exposure is the most severe. In the inland sections, removed from the severe exposure of the salt water, and protected by buildings and woodland developments, a large part of the list of generally hardy shrubs used throughout New England can be planted with safety. All of the material in this group, however, has been under observation for a number of years and has proven itself thoroughly hardy. In going farther south along the less-exposed New England shores we find a group of trees and shrubs which are fully hardy, but which do not develop at their best along the severe exposures of the Maine Coast. All of the material shown in the first list is fully hardy along the New England Coast and the less-exposed shore locations. There are many other shrubs which might prove hardy. Under the author’s observation many types of this material have been used at one time or another. Sources of responsible information have been further con- sulted and many plants of questionable hardiness, which might otherwise have been included in these groups, have been for the present omitted. LIST OF TREES AND SHRUBS FOR SEASIDE PLANTING A. Piants Harpy UNDER THE SEVERE Exposure oF THE NortH Atiantic Coast. Our only safe guide in the selection of plant types for the extreme exposures along the northeast coast is the experience of those who have endeavoured to acclimate a wide range of plant materials. These plants have proved thoroughly hardy, but it is possible that other plants which may be tested out in other locations or in the future will prove equally as hardy. a. Deciduous trees: Acer rubrum Populus deltoides monilifera Red Maple Northern Cottonwood Betula papyrifera Populus nigra italica Paper Birch Lombardy Poplar Betula populifolia Prunus serotina American White Birch Wild Black Cherry Populus alba Quercus rubra White Poplar Red Oak Populus balsamifera Salix alba Balsam Poplar White Willow Salix lucida Shining Willow 190 b. Conifers: Juniperus prostrata Dwarf Savin Juniperus virginiana (native forms) Red Cedar Larix laricina Tamarack Picea alba White Spruce Picea pungens glauca Koster’s Blue Spruce c. Shrubs: Alnus incana Speckled Alder Alnus rugosa serrulata Smooth Alder Ampelopsis quinquefolia Virginia Creeper Baccharis halimifolia Groundsel Bush Berberis thunbergt Thunberg’s Japanese Barberry Chamaedaphne calyculata Leather-leaf Comptonia asplenifolta Sweet Fern Hippophae rhamnoides Sea Buckthorn Hydrangea arborescens grandiflora Large-flowered Wild Hydrangea Tlex verticillata Winterberry Ligustrum ibota regelianum Regel’s Privet Ligustrum vulgare European Privet Lonicera tatarica Tartarian Honeysuckle Lyctum barbarum African Matrimony Vine THE COMPLETE GARDEN Picea rubra Red Spruce Pinus banksiana Jack Pine Pinus montana Swiss Mountain Pine Pinus resinosa Red Pine Pinus rigida Pitch Pine Lyonta ligustrina Andromeda Myrica certfera Bayberry Nemopanthus mucronata Mountain Holly Prunus maritima Beach Plum Rhus glabra Smooth Sumac Rhus typhina Staghorn Sumac Rosa lucida Glossy Rose Rosa rugosa Japanese Rose Rosa setigera Prairie Rose Sambucus canadensis American Elder Shepherdia canadensis Canadian Buffalo Berry Spiraea salictfolia Meadowsweet V: iburnum cassinoides Withe-rod Viburnum dentatum Arrow-wood B. Prants Harpy 1n THE Less SEVERE SEASIDE EXpPosuRES. Under the less severe conditions of seaside exposure there is a greater range of plants which may be used in addition to those shown under Group A. Most of the material in this part of the list is not adapted for use in the extreme northern section of the seacoast. ed Pratt XXVIII. This open allee is framed on either side by a solid row of closely sheared thorn trees. Its formal lines are softened by the row of pink flowering dogwoods which add a charm of flowers in early spring and of fruit in the late fall. Thorns planted 4 to 5 feet apart and dogwoods 8 feet apart. Width between rows of thorns 22 feet and between rows of dogwoods 9 to ro feet. (See pages 144 and 147, group XVI-D-b) PLratE XXIX. An open allee 12 feet wide and 800 feet long, developed by the use of white birch planted 3 to 4 feet apart in each row. For a per- manent allee of this type the birch is not ideal because of its short-lived characteristics and susceptibility to borer. Thorns, or the European beech would be preferable. (See page 147, group XVI-D-b-1) a. TREES AND SHRUBS FOR SEASIDE PLANTING Deciduous trees: Acer ginnale Siberian Maple Amelanchier oblongifolia Shad-bush Celtis occidentalis Nettle Tree Crataegus coccinea Scarlet-fruited Thorn Crataegus cordata Washington Thorn Crataegus crus-galli Cockspur Thorn Crataegus oxycantha May Thorn Gleditsia triacanthos Honey Locust Platanus occidentalis American Plane Populus alba pyramidalis Bolle’s Poplar Prunus pumila Sand Cherry Ptelea trifoliata Hop Tree Robinia pseudacacia Black Locust Salix pentandra Laurel-leaved Willow Salix vitellina aurea Conifers: Juniperus sabina (in variety) Savin Juniper Pinus densiflora _ Japanese Red Pine Shrubs: Calluna vulgaris Scotch Heather Clethra alnifolia Sweet Pepper Bush Cornus amomum Silky Dogwood Cytisus scoparius Scotch Broom Dirca palustris ather-wood Gentsta tinctoria Dyer’s Greenweed Hibiscus syriacus Rose of Sharon Hydrangea (in variety) Hydrangea Hypericum kalmianum Kalm’s St. John’s Wort Ttea virginica Virginian Willow Lycium chinense Chinese Matrimony Vine Golden-barked Willow Pinus nigra austriaca Austrian Pine Pinus sylvestris Scotch Pine Rhodotypos kerrioides hite Kerria Rhus copallina Shining Sumac Robinia hispida Rose Acacia Rosa blanda Meadow Rose Rosa carolina Carolina Rose Rosa multiflora Japanese Climbing Rose Rosa nitida Shining-leaved Rose Rosa spinosissima Scotch Rose Rubus odoratus Flowering Raspberry Symphoricarpos vulgaris Indian Currant Viburnum lentago Sheep Berry IgI CHAPTER XXVII PLANTS FOR PARTIALLY SHADED LOCATIONS Ir OFTEN becomes necessary to make a selection of the lower- growing trees and shrubs to be planted in partially shaded situations. This condition may be brought about by the location of buildings, by the location of individual groups of large trees, and by the location of scattered specimen trees. We are not considering, in this compila- tion, the group of materials shown in Chapter XXVIII, which is not only adapted to this same condition of partial shade but has further value in being adapted to heavily shaded areas under wooded con- ditions. The shrubs in this list are those which may be used to a great degree of safety on lawn areas where a more or less refined plant- ing is necessary, and where native plants are not so much desired. The difficulty with many kinds of trees and shrubs planted in shaded locations is that the lack of sunlight prevents them from attaining a normal development. ‘The foliage becomes thin and the branches are apt to grow long and spindly. Plants indigenous to such conditions, however, and which have come to thrive with this lessened supply of light, in partially shaded conditions, develop an interesting type of foliage; but flower effects on such plants are never quite as heavy as on plants which are supplied with sufficient light. In the making of plantations of this kind the only logical hope can be that of pro- ducing a foliage effect which serves as a background for a lawn and also often serves as a partial screen to give privacy to some garden or to shut off a service yard or other undesirable area. The bush honeysuckle, the arrow-wood, and the privet form a denser foliage than any of the other types of plants in this group. LIST OF PLANTS FOR PARTIALLY SHADED LOCATIONS As contrasted with the plants listed under Chapter XXVIII, most of the types in this list are adapted for use on the refined lawn areas where fruit and flowers, together with a heavy texture of foliage in the mature plant, are of great value. In fact, some of these plants such as the 192 PLANTS FOR PARTIALLY SHADED LOCATIONS _ 193 ground yew and the kalmia, will thrive better under partially shaded conditions than under conditions of open exposure to the sun. Acer pennsyloanicum Striped Maple Amelanchier oblongifolia Shad-bush Azalea (in variety) Native Azalea Benzoin aestivale Spice Bush Calycanthus floridus Strawberry Shrub Ceanothus americanus New Jersey Tea Clethra alnifolia Sweet Pepper Bush Cornus alternifolia Alternate-leaved Dogwood Cornus florida Flowering Dogwood Cornus mas Cornelian Cherry Dierovilla hybrida lutea-marginata Variegated Weigela Diervilla trifida Bush Honeysuckle Hamamelis virginiana Witch Hazel Hydrangea arborescens Wild Hydrangea Hydrangea quercifolia Oak-leaved Hydrangea Kalmia latifolia Mountain Laurel Ligustrum (in variety) Privet Lontcera tatarica Tartarian Honeysuckle Philadelphus coronarius Mock Orange Picea alba White Spruce Rhamnus caroliniana Carolina Buckthorn Rhododendron (in variety) Rhododendron Rhodotypos kerrioides White Kerria Symphoricarpos racemosus Snowberry Symphoricarpos vulgaris Indian Currant Taxus canadensis Ground Yew Tsuga canadensis Canadian Hemlock Viburnum acerifolium Maple-leaved Viburnum Viburnum alnifolium Hobble-bush Viburnum dentatum Arrow-wood Viburnum lentago Sheep Berry Viburnum opulus High-bush Cranberry Viburnum pruntfolium Black Haw Viburnum pubescens Downy-leaved Arrow-wood Zanthoxylum americanum Prickly-ash CHAPTER XXVIII PLANTS FOR UNDERGROWTH PLANTING IN WOODED AREAS THE plants which most successfully fill the requirements for under- growth planting are our native woodland species. These requirements are mainly the ability to succeed in partial or dense shade and also to survive the struggle for moisture, food, and room which always exists in a naturalistic planting where the ground below and the air above are already well occupied by large trees. Our northern forests con- tain a profusion of plants which will succeed as undergrowth. But too often in the past-not enough care has been taken to choose only those plants which are desirable from an ornamental point of view. It is possible, however, to select from the large amount of available mate- rial all the plants which are necessary to carry out an undergrowth planting on any scale, and at the same time use only plants which are desirable on account of their flowering habits, their fruits, the autumn colouration of their leaves, their evergreen character, or some equally valuable characteristic quality. One of the best examples of a successful shrub for undergrowth is the well-known maple-leaved viburnum, which produces white flowers in June and blue fruits in the autumn, and whose leaves in autumn have a striking pink colour. Other shrubs which lend themselves very readily to undergrowth planting are the sweet pepper bush, with its profuse white flowers; the Carolina allspice, on account of its fragrance and autumn colour; and the chokeberries and winterberry, useful for their striking autumn fruits. Among the coniferous evergreens the native hemlock and the balsam fir are very satisfactory plants. The Douglas spruce also promises well and is adaptable to almost any soil. | In choosing smaller plants of perennial herbaceous character much care should be taken to avoid weedy species or those without some especially worth-while characteristic. There are many native forms which are valuable for their green foliage alone, such as the Christmas fern, which is evergreen also, the ostrich fern, Clayton’s fern, and the 194 UNDERGROWTH PLANTING IN WOODED AREAS 195 maidenhair fern. Among the valuable asters are several which bloom profusely during the late summer and autumn months when other woodland flowers are scarce. The old-fashioned dead nettle, which does not sting, and its variegated leaved variety, provide flowers from May to September, when colonized in moist shade, and the goldenrods also, such as the blue-stemmed and the variety called speciosa, enliven the woods from August to October. Among the plants which will be found valuable for forming mats of ground cover and some of which are evergreen in character are the money- wort, English ivy, running strawberry-bush, spotted wintergreen, and the dwarf cornus or bunchberry. As a rule these plants succeed best when planted in small colonies and when used to face down clumps of shrubs which may in turn be used against an evergreen background. Thus, plantings may be grouped so as to provide interesting combinations along the sides of paths and at ends of vistas. Ifthe natural mulch layer has disappeared an effort should be made to reproduce it as soon as possible after planting and care should be taken to see that forest fires do not burn off the autumn leaves which nature provides for a winter cover. When leaves drift in so thickly as to threaten to smother the smaller plants a portion of these leaves may be removed; but as a general rule it is not wise to do too much cleaning up unless the desirable plants are in danger of being overwhelmed by the mulch or by larger native plants. One of the most common faults in woodland landscape developments is the attempt to “‘clean up” existing undergrowth rather than to study its interesting possibilities in combination with many types of plants valuable for foliage, flowers, and fruit. All these types of plants are adapted for use in woodland wild garden areas, and without exception they will in time naturalize them- selves. In developing plantings of this type it is much better practice to lay the foundation during the first season by planting sparsely over the entire planting area. During the succeeding season many plants can be added to supplement the planting which is in place and to re- place those which have died in the process of establishing themselves. The best results are obtained by so laying out the planting develop- ment that a period of at least three years is required in which to put all of the material into its permanent location. The development of mass plantations under heavily shaded conditions is quite a different prob- lem from the development of mass plantations on open and refined 196 THE COMPLETE GARDEN lawn areas where planting should be practically completed during the first two seasons. Experience has taught those who have watched this type of plantations develop that a great percentage of loss must be anticipated, for two reasons: In the first place, plants are placed under abnormal conditions of lack of sunlight, and second, the available artificial water supply is apt to be very limited. The process of naturalizing plants and acclimating them to conditions of this kind must naturally be a slow process if the results when the work is com- pleted are to be a success from a landscape standpoint. It is quite essential in naturalizing perennials in a wild garden that conditions similar to those under which the plant was previously growing should be reproduced. A number of wild garden develop- ments have at different times become failures because as trees have died, thus changing the conditions of shade, these trees have not been replaced, and the result is that this changing of shade conditions has caused the killing out of many types of perennials which are especially susceptible to changed conditions of this character. LIST OF PLANTS FOR UNDERGROWTH PLANTING IN WOODED AREAS Most of the plants contained in this list can be collected from the fields and woods. The larger plants are valuable as background for wild garden planting and for undergrowth planting in wooded areas. For information supplementing this refer to Chapter XXTX-C. A. Shrubs and Small Trees: Abies balsamea Ceanothus americanus Balsam Fir New Jersey Tea Acer saccharum Clethra alnifolia Sugar Maple Sweet Pepper Bush Arctostaphylos uva-urst Cornus alternifolia Bearberry Alternate-leaved Dogwood Aronia arbutifolia Cornus florida Red Chokeberry Flowering Dogwood Aronia melanocarpa Hamamelis virginiana Black Chokeberry Witch Hazel Benzoin aestivale Hydrangea arborescens Spice Bush Wild Hydrangea Calycanthus floridus Tlex verticillata Strawberry Shrub Winterberry Carpinus caroliniana Leucothoe catesbaet American Hornbeam Catesby’s Andromeda UNDERGROWTH PLANTING IN WOODED AREAS 197 Myrica gale Bayberry Philadelphus inodorus Scentless Mock Orange Physocarpus opulifolius inebark Pinus montana Swiss Mountain Pine Rhamnus caroliniana Carolina Buckthorn Rhododendron (Native Collected) Rhododendron Rubus odoratus Flowering Raspberry Staphylea irifolia American Bladdernut Tsuga canadensis Canadian Hemlock Viburnum acerifolium Maple-leaved Viburnum Zanthoxylum americanum B. Ground Cover Plants: Actaea spicata Cohosh Adiantum pedatum Maidenhair Fern Ajuga reptans ugle Anemone pennsylvanica Canadian Windflower Aralia racemosa American Spikenard Aspidium acrostichoides hristmas Fern Aspidium marginale Margined Fern Aster acuminatus Sharp-leaved Aster Aster cordifolius Starwort Aster Aster corymbosus Wild Aster Aster patens Spreading Aster Chimaphila maculata Pipsissewa Cimicifuga racemosa Snakeroot Convallaria mayjalts Lily-of-the-valley Cornus canadensis Bunchberry Cypripedium Lady’s Slipper Dennstaedtia punctilobula Hay-scented Fern Evonymus obovatus Running Strawberry Bush Evonymus radicans Climbing Evonymus Evonymus radicans acutus Hybrid Japanese Evergreen Ivy Galium boreale Northern Bedstraw Geranium maculatum Crane’s Bill Hedera helix English Ivy Helianthemum chamaecistus Rock Rose Hepatica triloba Hepatica Hydrastis canadensis Golden Seal Hypericum calycinum Aaron’s Beard Hypericum kalmianum Kalm’s St. John’s Wort Lamium maculatum Dead Nettle Lysimachia nummularia Moneywort Mahonia repens Creeping Mahonia Mitchella repens Partridge Berry Onoclea sensibilis Sensitive Fern Onoclea struthiopteris Ostrich Fern Osmunda claytoniana Clayton’s Fern Pachistima canbyi Canby’s Mountain Lover 198 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Phlox divaricata Wild Sweet William Podophyllum peltatum Mandrake Polypodium vulgare Polypody Sanguinaria canadensis Bloodroot Solidago arguta Sharp-leaved Goldenrod Viola cucullata Common Violet Solidago caesia Blue-stemmed Goldenrod Solidago speciosa Showy Goldenrod Trillium (in variety) Wake Robin Vinca minor Periwinkle Viola canadensis Canadian Violet CHAPTER XXIX PLANTS FOR GROUND COVER GROUND-cOVER plants are distinctly valuable for a use covered by the literal interpretation of the word. ‘The conditions which they over- come may not be unsightly or entirely barren. ‘Their general use is to provide on the ground an interesting carpet, which may be close- growing, as in the instance of vines and the very low perennials, or taller-growing, as in the instance of yellowroot and flowering raspberry. We may say that ground-cover plants are used to make a more interesting mat, which is an aesthetic use, or to form a carpet for the purpose of preventing excessive evaporation. Many of these plants are useful because of their fruiting characteristics, and also their ability to retain their foliage, both during the hot, dry summer months and during the winter months. In the selection of this material there are many different and distinct uses which can be definitely grouped under various headings, as shown in this chapter. As a matter of fact, any plants, whether high or low, serve as a ground cover in some sense of the word. The tall-growing plants, which are often seen planted in close masses and included in the groups of tall-growing shrubs, are discussed under the headings of “mass plantings” and also ‘“‘undergrowth plantations.” This dis- cussion does not attempt to treat those groups. It has seemed best, rather than to include in one general list all of the plants used for ground cover, to make an effort, at least, to separate into a number of subheadings the specific uses for which ground- cover plants may be selected. The person familiar with plant adapta- tions knows that there are distinct groups of plants which are adapted to low, moist conditions, as there are distinct groups of plants adapted to dry and sunny conditions also. Those of us who have had considerable experience in the planting of perennials in different types of garden soil, as affected either by the type of soil or the kind of drainage, know that certain plants will thrive in a very moist soil, while other plants take a great dislike to moist conditions, and will thrive only 199 200 THE COMPLETE GARDEN when the soil is well drained or light and sandy. There are some plants, however, like the moss pink, the sea thrift, and the Japanese evergreen ivy, which seem to thrive almost equally well in moist situations or dry situations. The plants shown in Group A are those which have proved their value as being adapted to conditions which are continually moist, and should preferably be grown in the open sunlight and not subjected to any considerable degree of shade. Plants which are adapted to dry situations, especially conditions of sandy soil or extreme drainage where grass will not thrive, include a small group which have proved themselves very hardy. The bar- berry, the Japanese spurge, the moss pink, and the stonecrops are fully representative of this group. The mat of foliage formed by the plants in their more mature development serves to shade the ground beneath and, to a certain extent, to retain much moisture in the soil which otherwise would be lost through evaporation. ‘This group includes the close-growing types of plants which are selected mostly because of their ability to form a definite mat. Many of them such as the stonecrops, the tunica, and the moss pink, are extremely valuable because of their flowering habit, although effective during a short period only. The Japanese spurge, the partridge berry, and the bearberry are valuable distinctly on account of their foliage habits. | The plantsman is often called upon to select material which may be vines, perennials, or low-growing shrubs, to be used for ground-cover purposes under large trees, and in situations heavily shaded by build- ings. Most of these plants should have, for their most successful growth, an excellent topsoil containing a small percentage of clay, ora rich woodland loam consisting mostly of well-rotted leaf mold and fibrous roots. These plants are valuable because of their ability to thrive under extreme shade. One often sees in large lawn areas and at the edges of woods, or on the shady side of buildings, spots which receive little or no sunlight where grass will not thrive and where most of our ordinary shrubs and perennials grow thin, leggy, and not vigor- ous. In such locations the only real solution lies in the selection of plants which will form a ground cover and thus preserve a mat of interesting green foliage. Many of these plants also, like the bunch- berry, the ground yew, and the partridge berry, have interesting fruit. The waterleaf, the moneywort, and the Japanese evergreen spurge are types valuable only because of their foliage, and the stonecrops, the periwinkle, and the wake robin are valuable also because of their inter- PLANTS FOR GROUND COVER 201 esting flowers. This list of plants does not endeavour to cover the group shown under “perennials valuable for ground cover in wild garden areas,” but if one is seeking more complete information on this subject both this group and the discussion on “wild garden areas’”’ should be consulted. (Chapter XX XI-C.) The question of how to make interesting those embankments and slopes that are otherwise unattractive is one which often confronts us. The plants which are used for this purpose are included under the groups of shrubs, perennials, and vines, and the kind of materials selected, whether shrubs, perennials, or vines, depends upon the scale of the effect which is desired. That is, for coarse, rocky embank- ments, marked with large boulders, and which are to have a rocky appearance, the larger shrubs and vines are most valuable, while for a more refined effect in the intimate portions of the landscape setting the perennials and smaller-growing vines are more effective. Most embankments and rocky slopes are composed of sandy, well-drained, and generally dry soil. Here plants such as roses, matrimony vine, and buffalo berry are valuable for their fruit. The honeysuckles and the yellow-root are valuable for their foliage, and the flowering rasp- berry and prairie rose for their flowers. Most plantings in such sit- uations will require considerable care and watering during the first two years after transplanting. But subsequent to this time these plants, if properly selected, will continue to thrive, having been thoroughly acclimated to the new location. Another valuable group of ground-cover plants are those which are used to fill crevices between stepping-stones or between the flag- ging of paved terrace areas. This list is composed of small-flowering and foliage plants, both perennials and annuals, which are usually planted in small soil spaces between the stones. Their greatest value is to relieve the monotonous, bare effect of walks and terrace areas, to which so much interest would be added by a touch of colour, either in foliage or flowers, obtained through a proper planting of well- selected material included in this group. Many of these plants, if left to themselves, will after the first two or three years spread rapidly and will require much attention to keep them within the proper limits. Many paved walk and terrace areas are overplanted and consequently a careful selection of a few of these plants is much better than an over-supply. The rock cress, sea thrift, stonecrop, and creeping phlox are types which are adapted to the small, refined spaces, while for 202 THE COMPLETE GARDEN terraces on a large scale, the dwarf iris, evergreen candytuft, tunica, and speedwell are plants which should be used. It is quite probable, in many instances on paved areas which to be on a firm foundation have but a small layer of loam between the stone and the cinders, that these plants will be frequently winter-killed and require replacing. If it so happens that these paved areas can be successfully laid, because of local climatic conditions, upon a good depth of sandy loam, then these plants must seldom be replaced, but rather frequently thinned out. There are many indigenous mosses which can readily be trans- planted in tufts to fill the crevices between the stones on paved walks, thus presenting the appearance of age during the first years after con- struction. Most of the mosses require a considerable quantity of water to make them thrive. There are a few varieties, however, found in open, sunny locations, that will thrive with little moisture. Therefore, before using moss to fill the crevices between flags on paved areas, the natural habitat of the moss to be used should be known. In one of the former groups of plants for dry locations and for em- bankments, the discussion was directed toward the effects of drying out. There are instances where the open exposure and the effect of the sun develop a situation requiring plants that will withstand ex- treme sun exposure. These plants can be adapted to light, sandy soil, and they form a small group, with the stonecrops, the Adam’s needle, and the maiden pink as typical varieties, which may be plarted under the most adverse conditions of exposure and sun. Quite often one finds plantations of rhododendrons and azaleas which have fallen just short of being really interesting because of the lack of some ground-cover planting to give the added and desired touch of in- terest. This may be for the purpose of relieving the bare ground around the edges of the plantation, so often covered in a successful manner with Japanese spurge, periwinkles, ferns, and andromedas. It may be that one desires a touch of colour so often obtained by the introduction of the different types of lilies, which can be successfully grown in plantations of hybrid rhododendrons. Especially in plantings of large and native rhododendrons, many of these ground-cover plants can be introduced with a great degree of success to relieve the “leggy” appearance of these plants and to make an interesting mat over the ground which might otherwise be more or less bare. The ground among rhododendrons is subject to more or less heavy shade for two PLANTS FOR GROUND COVER 203, reasons. In the first place, the rhododendron foliage itself provides considerable shade at the base of the plant, and the nature of the rhododendron plant requires shade for its successful growth. Con- sequently, these ground-cover plants should be such as are adapted to the general conditions of woodland shade. It is inadvisable to culti- vate the soil around the base of rhododendrons and azaleas. These plants ought to be such that when once planted they will require no further cultivation other than the addition of a small amount of leaf mold from year to year, to provide the necessary food supply. The last and one of the interesting types of ground cover is that used in the development of rose gardens, to provide a mat of foliage or flowers between the rose bushes. Plants used for this purpose, such as the tufted pansy, the common verbena, and rose moss, ought to be shallow-rooted types, with low, spreading characteristics. The reason why a ground cover is desired in a rose garden is that during a portion of the summer months the ground is often bare. There is an argument, however, against the use of any ground cover throughout the rose garden in that the constant cultivation which is the best aid to the good development of roses cannot be done. Many of the success- ful English rose gardens are filled with these ground-cover plants. Where plants of this kind are used the roses should be well cultivated in the early spring and should be well cultivated again in the early or late fall, and they should be well fertilized also to insure sufficient food in the soil to provide for both the growth of the ground-cover plants and the roses. These plants, all of which are interesting for their flowering habits, provide an interesting group of colour at a season of the year when most of the roses have passed the height of their bloom. LIST OF PLANTS FOR GROUND COVER A. Morst Locations. This group of plants is adapted for loca- tions where the soil conditions are apt to be continually moist. There are some perennials which will not thrive and will rot where the ground is continually moist. It is therefore desirable to have a group from which to select plants when these exceptional conditions of soil or drainage are encountered. Achillea tomentosa Alyssum saxatile compactum Yellow Milfoil Golden Tuft Ajuga reptans Arabis alpina Bugle Alpine Rock Cress 204 Armeria maritima Sea Thrift Asperula odorata Sweet Woodruff Bellis perennis English Daisy Campanula carpatica Carpathian Harebell Daphne cneorum Garland Flower Epigaea repens Trailing Arbutus Erica Heath Evonymus radicans Climbing Evonymus Evonymus radicans acutus Hybrid Japanese Evergreen Ivy Evonymus radicans vegetus Scarlet-fruited Japanese Evergreen Ivy Festuca glauca Blue Fescue Grass Funkia (in variety) Plaintain Lily Helleborus niger Christmas Rose Herniaria glabra Herniary THE COMPLETE GARDEN Tberis sempervirens Evergreen Candytuft Tris florentina Orris Root Lysimachia nummularia Moneywort Myosotis palustris Forget-me-not Nepeta glechoma Ground Ivy Phlox stolonifera Creeping Phlox Phlox subulata (in variety) Moss Pink Potentilla fruticosa Shrubby Cinquefoil Saponaria ocymoides Rock Soapwort Stellaria holostea Starwort Thymus serpyllum lanuginosus Downy Thyme Veronica repens Creeping Speedwell Vinca minor Periwinkle Viola cornuta Tufted Pansy Viola tricolor Pansy B. Dry Locations. The plants in the following group are es- pecially adapted for growing on slopes which are continuously more or less dry. The heavy foliage of the plants often forms a ground cover which conserves the moisture and many of them are the deep-rooted types which will thrive on sandy soils where a normal amount of water is not always available. Arctostaphylos uva-urst Bearberry Arenaria caespitosa Tufted Sandwort Aster ericoides White Heath Aster Cerastium tomentosum Snow-in-summer Dianthus deltoides Maiden Pink Dianthus plumarius Scotch Pink Festuca glauca Blue Fescue Grass Gaultheria procumbens Wintergreen Helianthemum croceum (protect in winter) Rock Rose Letophyllum Sand Myrtle Mitchella repens Partridge Berry Pachysandra terminalis Japanese Spurge PLANTS FOR GROUND COVER 205 Phlox subulata Moss Pink Santolina chamaecyparissus Lavender Cotton Sedum album White Stonecrop Sedum spurium Spreading Stonecrop Sedum stoloniferum Purple Stonecrop Tunica saxifraga Saxifrage-like Tunica Vinca minor Periwinkle Yucca filamentosa Adam’s Needle C. Suapy Locations. The following group of plants contains only the most common types which have proved successful for ground cover under large trees and in heavily shaded situations on lawns. It is best for most of these plants to have as a basis for their growth good soil, although some of them, such as the periwinkle and the Japa- nese spurge, will grow under extreme conditions of light soil with little moisture. For the greatest success with this list of plants they should be well moistened during dry spells. For supplementary infor- mation on ground-cover plants, in shaded locations, see sub-group No. XXXI-C. Aegopodium podagraria Goutweed Ajuga reptans Bugle | Convallaria majalis Lily-of-the-valley Cornus canadensis Bunchberry Evonymus obovatus Running Strawberry Bush Evonymus radicans acutus Hybrid Japanese Evergreen Ivy Gaultheria procumbens Wintergreen Hedera helix lobata English Ivy Hepatica triloba Hepatica Hydrophyllum appendiculatum Appendaged Water Leaf Hydrophyllum virginicum Water Leaf Lysimachia nummularia Moneywort Mahonia repens Creeping Mahonia Mitchella repens Partridge Berry Pachysandra caroliniana Carolina Spurge Pachysandra terminalis Japanese Spurge Polygala pauctfolia ilkwort Polygonatum multiflorum Solomon’s Seal Sanguinaria canadensis Bloodroot Sedum spurium Spreading Stonecrop Taxus canadensis Ground Yew Trillium erectum album White Wake Robin Tussilago farfara Colt’s Foot Vinca minor Periwinkle D. Ferns. There is a great variety of ferns adapted for use in different types of soil, both as a ground cover in the open and more 206 THE COMPLETE GARDEN dry shaded places and also in the locations where the ground is con- tinually moist. In sub-group a and sub-group b are listed the more important types of ferns which may be selected for plantings where it is desired to use ferns. a. Dry, shady places: Asplenium ebeneum Ebony Spleenwort Asplenium trichomanes Maidenhair Spleenwort Aspidium acrostichoides Christmas Fern Aspidium marginale Margined Fern b. Moist, shady places: Adiantum pedatum Maidenhair Fern Aspidium acrostichoides Christmas Fern Aspidium cristatum Dwarf Fern Aspidium goldieanum Goldie’s Wood Fern Aspidium marginale Margined Fern Asplenium filix-foemina Lady Fern Camptosorus rhizophyllus Walking Fern Dennstaedtia punctilobula Hay-scented Fern Osmunda claytoniana Clayton’s Fern Polypodium vulgare Polypody Woodsia obtusa Onoclea sensibilis Sensitive Fern Onoclea struthiopteris Ostrich Fern Osmunda cinnamomea Cinnamon Fern Osmunda regalis Royal Fern Phegopteris hexagonoptera Broad Beech Fern Woodwardia virginica Virginia Chain Fern E. EMBANKMENTS AND Rocky Stopes. This group consists mostly of vines and scrambling types of shrubs, together with a very few interesting hardy perennials. Banks and rocky slopes do not generally retain a considerable amount of moisture, and accordingly the material which is used should possess a vigorous constitution and low, spread- ing habit of growth, and the ability to withstand lack of moisture. The embankments which are composed of excellent heavy types of soil, and which are constantly cared for, may be covered with any of the low, spreading types of shrubs and perennials. a. Shrubs: Arctostaphylos uva-urst Comptonia asplentfolia Bearberry Sweet Fern (Q-X1X dnors SS1 aded aag) -aanao1d adeospur] & Jo ssouaatqoriz31e oy} OX Siva 03 yonur sppe ‘1vadde saavay aya 193ye uoos Sutids ut siamoy suronpoid ‘{jeqmous asourde jodnoisy ° PLANTS FOR GROUND COVER 207 Cotoneaster horizontalis Prostrate Cotoneaster Gentsta tinctoria Dyer’s Greenweed Juniperus (prostrate forms) Red Cedar Kalmia angustifolia Sheep Laurel Lonticera prostrata Prostrate Honeysuckle Lonicera spinosa alberti Large-fruited Honeysuckle Lonicera syringantha Heliotrope Honeysuckle Myrica cerifera Bayberry Rhus canadensis Fragrant Sumac Rhus copallina Shining Sumac Rhus glabra Smooth Sumac Rhus typhina Staghorn Sumac b. Perennials: Hypericum calycinum Aaron’s Beard Pachysandra terminalis Japanese Spurge c. Vines: Ampelopsis aconitifolia ut-leaved Vitis Ampelopsis heterophylla Asiatic Creeper Ampelopsis quinquefolia Virginia Creeper Bignonia radicans (in variety) rumpet Vine Celastrus orbiculatus Japanese Bitter-sweet Celastrus scandens American Bitter-sweet Rosa setigera Prairie Rose Rosa spinosissima altaica Scotch Rose Rubus crataegifolius Thorn-leaved Raspberry Rubus deliciosus Rocky Mountain Flowering Raspberry Rubus dumetorum European Dewberry Rubus odoratus Flowering Raspberry Shepherdia canadensis Canadian Buffalo Berry Sorbaria sorbifolia Mountain Ash-leaved Spirea Spiraea salicifolia Meadow-sweet Spiraca tomentosa Hardhack Symphoricarpos oulgaris Indian-currant Xanthorrhiza aptiifolia Yellow-root Zanthoxylum americanum Prickly-ash Phlox subulata Moss Pink Vinea minor Periwinkle Evonymus radicans acutus Hybrid Japanese Evergreen Ivy Lonicera japonica halliana Japanese Honeysuckle Lycium halimifolium Matrimony Vine Periploca graeca Silk Vine Pueraria thunbergiana Kudzu Vine Rosa wichuraiana (in variety) Memorial Rose Vitis corgnetiae Crimson Glory Vine 208 THE COMPLETE GARDEN _ F. SMALL-FLOWERING AND FoLiaGE PLANTs FoR CrEvIcEs BE- TWEEN STEPPING-STONES AND FOR Pavep TERRACE ArEas. This group consists of the very dwarf perennials and annuals which may be planted in the limited soil pockets between stepping-stones, between flagging on paved terraces, and in the narrow crevices between rock garden work. Most of the indigenous mosses which are adapted to either shady or sunny exposures can be readily transplanted to a cor- responding condition, thus providing an appearance of age during the first year. Arabis albida Rock Cress Arabis alpina Alpine Rock Cress Armeria maritima Sea Thrift Asperula odorata (in shade) Sweet Woodruff Aubrietia deltoidea Purple Rock Cress Bellis perennts English Daisy Camptosorus rhizophyllus Walking Fern Cerastium tomentosum Snow-in-summer Ceratostigma' plumbaginotides Leadwort Dianthus deltoides Maiden Pink Evonymus radicans minima Small-leaved Japanese Evergreen Ivy Goodyera pubescens Rattle-snake Plantain Tberis sempervirens Evergreen Candytuft Tris cristata Crested Iris Tris pumila Dwarf Flag Tris verna American Dwarf Iris Linnaea borealis Twin Flower G. PERENNIALS ADAPTED To Open, SUNNY ExXPposuURES. Lotus corniculatus Baby’s Slippers Nepeta glechoma Ground Ivy Phlox stolonifera Creeping Phlox Phlox subulata Moss Pink Polemonium reptans Greek Valerian Primula veris English Cowslip Pyxidanthera barbulata Flowering Moss Sedum acre Mossy Stonecrop Sempervioum arachnoideum Spiderweb Houseleek Silene alpestris Alpine Catchfly Thymus serpyllum lanuginosus Downy Thyme Tiarella cordifolia Foam-flower Tunica saxifraga Saxifrage-like Tunica Veronica rupestris Rock Speedwell Veronica teucrium prostrata Speedwell Vinca minor Periwinkle Viola pedata Bird’s Foot Violet This small list contains perennials which will withstand extreme exposure to the sun. Most of these plants will thrive on a light, sandy soil. PLANTS FOR GROUND COVER 209 Armeria maritima Sea Thrift Cerastium tomentosum Snow-in-summer Dianthus deltoides Maiden Pink Gaillardia aristata Blanket Flower Phlox subulata Moss Pink Sedum acre Mossy Stonecrop Sedum sexangulare Dark Green Stonecrop Sempervivum (in variety) Houseleek Veronica repens Creeping Speedwell Yucca filamentosa Adam’s Needle H. Grounp CovER AMONG RHODODENDRONS AND AZALEAS. This group contains plants which are excellently adapted to the same kind of soil and the same kind of treatment as are the types of rhodo- dendrons and azaleas with which they are used. Many of these plants such as the lilies, hypericums, and some others, provide flowers during a portion of the season when the large shrubs are not in flower. Aronia arbutifolia Red Chokeberry Asarum canadense Wild Ginger Chamaedaphne calyculata Leather-leaf Cotoneaster horizontalis Prostrate Cotoneaster Erythronium (in variety) Adder’s-tongue Fern (in variety) Fern Galax aphylla alax Goodyera pubescens Rattle-snake Plantain Helonias bullata Swamp-pink Houstonia caerulea Bluet Hypericum calycinum Aaron’s Beard Hypericum moserianum Gold-flower Ilex glabra Inkberry Ledum groenlandicum Labrador Tea Leiophyllum (in variety) Mountain Heath Leucothoé catesbaei Catesby’s Andromeda Lilium canadense Wild Yellow Lily Lilium pardalinum Panther Lily Lilium speciosum Japanese Lily Lilium superbum Turks’ Cap Lily Lilium tenutfolium Siberian Coral Lily Mertensia virginica Bluebell Mitchella repens Partridge Berry Pachysandra terminalis Japanese Spurge Pieris (in variety) Fetterbush Pyxidanthera barbulata Flowering Moss Rhodora canadensis Rhodora Shortia galactfolia hortia Taxus canadensis Ground Yew Trillium (in variety) Wake Robin 210 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Vinca minor Viola (in variety) Periwinkle Violet Vinca minor alba Xanthorrhiza aptifolia White Periwinkle Yellow-root I. Grounp Cover Amonc RosrEs. Many persons object to the bare ground existing among roses. For the best success in growing roses every opportunity should be provided for cultivating the area around each rosebush. During a portion of the season, however, this bareness of the soil can be overcome by the use of an interesting carpet, providing colour at a season of the year when the roses have passed the height of their bloom. Any ground-cover planting among roses should be watched carefully in order to eliminate the possi- bility that the ground-cover plants absorb food which should remain for the rose plants, or that they should prevent cultivation at a time when the roses need cultivating. Alyssum maritimum . Portulaca grandiflora Sweet Alyssum Rose Moss Dianthus heddewigt Reseda odorata Japanese Pink Mignonette Petunia hybrida Verbena hybrida Petunia Verbena Phlox drummondt Viola cornuta (in variety) Annual Phlox Tufted Pansy Viola tricolor Pansy CHAPTER XXX GAME COVER PLANTS WHEN selecting ground-cover plants and undergrowth plants for locations which are naturally attractive to birds, especially the game birds, it is possible to provide a more inviting “sanctuary” for these birds by the use of plants which produce food either in the way of buds and foliage, or of nuts and seeds. These plants are mostly native species and many of them are not offered in the catalogs of the growers of ornamental plants. They could be easily collected where they occur locally or secured from some of the collectors of native plants. Seeds also might be easily collected and sown where they are to grow. ‘These game cover plants should be established in areas ranging from one hundred feet square to a number of acres, to provide combined shelter and food for several kinds of birds at one time. The location of these plantings should be chosen so that they will not need to be disturbed for some years, and will also be within easy flying distance of dense woods, if possible. An ideal location would be in a clearing entirely surrounded by woods which contain hemlocks or pines or other dense shelter. Not only will such plants used as a bird-sanctuary attract our permanent bird residents such as the ruffed grouse, bob white, gold- finches, nuthatches, and chickadees, but they will attract many other seed-eating birds until the cold weather drives them south. LIST OF GAME COVER PLANTS The following group of plants are valuable for use as ground cover where there is also a chance to provide suitable shelters for game birds, especially grouse. These groups are: (A) Plants of which the buds, blossoms, and foliage are eaten by game birds, and (B) Plants of which the nuts or seeds are eaten by game birds. These are mostly native plants. 2a1 212 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Foliage, Buds, and Blossoms (Spring Cover): Acer (in varie Matte = Alnus (in variety) Alder Aster (in variety) Hardy Aster Astilbe biternata False Goat’s Beard Azalea (in variety) Azalea Benzoin aestivale Spice Bush Betula (in variety) Birch Corylus (in variety) Hazelnut Epigaea repens Trailing Arbutus Equisetum hyemale:’ Horse-tail Rushes Fagus (in variety) Beech Heuchera (in variety) Coral-bells Kalmia (in variety) Laurel Mitchella repens Partridge Berry Ostrya virginiana Hop Hornbeam Oxalis (in variety) Wood Sorrel Picea (in variety) Spruce Nuts or Seeds (Autumn Cover): Acer (in variety) aple Belamcanda chinensts Blackberry Lily Bidens frondosa Sticktight Carex (in varie =. _ Castanea (in variety) Chestnut Populus (in variety) Poplar Portulaca oleracea Purslane Prunus (in variety) Wild Cherry and Plum Pyrus (in varie eS =) Ranunculus (in variety) Buttercup Rubus (in variety) Brambles Salix (in variety) illow Sambucus (in variety) Elderberry Saxifraga (in variety) Stone-breaker Smilax (in variety) Greenbrier Stellaria media Chickweed Taraxacum officinale Dandelion Thalictrum (in variety) Meadow-rue Thuja (in variety) Arborvitae Bi is (in variety) lover Vaccinium (in variety) Blueberry Veronica (in variety) Speedwell Corylus (in variety) Hazelnut Fagus americana Beechnut Geum (in variety) Avens Hamamelis virginiana Witch Hazel Helianthemum canadense Frost-weed GAME COVER PLANTS 213 Impatiens pallida Polygonum persicaria Jewel-weed Lady’s Thumb Leptamnium virginianum Quercus (in variety) Beechdrop Oak Meiboma (in variety) Rumex acetosella Tick Trefoil Sheep Sorrel Ostrya virginiana Stellaria media Hop Hornbeam Chickweed Pinus rigida Tsuga canadensis Pitch Pine Canadian Hemlock Vicia (in variety) Vetch CHAPTER XXXI PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES WHETHER to use annuals or perennials, what perennials to use for different flowering effects, and how to take care of the perennial garden are important questions, the correct answers to which make for the success or failure of a flower garden. A flower garden in itself is the intimate companion either of those who own it and enjoy working in it, or of those who are only sufficiently interested to be thoroughly satisfied when an interesting flower effect is produced. There is no part of the field of landscape design, from the standpoint of the professional designer, from which so much criticism can arise as through the failure to produce an interesting flower garden. It is useless to discuss the question of taste, concerning the individual preferences for various colours of garden flowers; yet to everyone the successful garden im- plies a garden filled with flowers. The proper relationship between the unusual types and unusual effects becomes a secondary and yet an important consideration. The success of a perennial planting does not rest entirely with the proper selection and proper planting of perennials. A perennial garden cannot stand still. It cannot be made to-day and exist to- morrow without some care. Many gardens in which the types of plants have been selected with extra care have completely failed be- cause whoever was responsible for their subsequent maintenance has not understood the nature and requirements of the plants with which he was dealing. The general rule can be laid down for the success of any perennial garden that the one who assumes responsibility for its success must be as intimately acquainted with the plants, their habits and requirements, as with the members of one’s own family. TREES, AND THEIR EFFECT ON THE FLOWER GARDEN. ‘The old saying is true, either the flower effect of the garden or the quantity of flowers cut for house use must be greatly reduced if the same garden is to serve two purposes. It is also true that trees and desirable sorts of 214 Pirate XXXI. It is quite important in the planting of the spring garden that the designer should know those shrubs which produce flowers before the leaves appear, similar to the Carolina azalea (B), and those early-flowering shrubs which produce flowers and leaves at the same time, similar to the bladdernut (A). (See page 154, group XIX-A) PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 215 garden flowers seldom grow in nature together. Most of the garden flowering plants demand ample sunlight for their best development. For those who develop homes, and attempt the making of a flower garden on areas covered with dense shade of large trees, it is impossible to provide the ideal flower garden which one may have wished so often to possess. ‘Trees must be sacrificed, or soil conditions will be too wet or too dry. Spreading roots from such trees will steal plant food from the garden, and sunlight so essential for the development of fine flowers will be shut out. The true garden lover who realizes that plants, like human beings, thrive only in congenial and healthful surroundings will either love and preserve his trees or will have the courage of his convictions to remove unnecessary trees and give to his flower garden ideal conditions of air and sunlight. Morning sunlight is generally considered more effective in producing plant growth than afternoon sunlight. Trees on the north side of a garden are seldom objectionable; but most trees within the garden or on the south and west side are very undesirable. Persons who are planting a perennial garden for the first time, and who are not familiar with the flowering types of perennials, should adhere, in the selection of plants, to a few hardy types of perennials, such as the iris, the phlox, the larkspur, the chrysanthemum, and the columbine, together with others shown in this list (XX XI-A). All of these, with average care, are certain to produce flowers. The more unusual types can be selected and introduced into the garden as one’s knowledge of them increases. For a person who is a lover of garden flowers, and who attempts to procure definite colour combinations during different periods of the growing season, it is well to outline groups of perennials, from each of which material may be selected to produce the desired effect. We should associate perennials in groups for season and colour in order to use them most successfully. This knowledge comes only with a certain experience. There also may be plants found outside of these groups which can be used to advantage. The object in compiling these groups has been to establish a definite reference list from which the more important types can readily be found and associated in one’s mind with the definite purpose for which they can be best used. Frequently, as a matter of taste, one person may desire a garden with yellows and blues predominating. Another may desire a garden with 216 THE COMPLETE GARDEN pinks and whites. It is essential that one should be able to readily and definitely select plants for these different purposes. The woodland wild garden becomes an important problem because the selection of material adapted to partially shaded conditions existing in such garden areas does not present the same problems as the selection of a type of material adapted to a sunny, open exposure. The term “‘wild garden”’ applies to the use of plants which can be naturalized; plants which, when once planted and given normal care during the first year, will become thoroughly acclimated and continue to grow vigorously and multiply as the years go by. In the selection of material there are two types of plants which can be selected: the tall-growing types and the low-growing types. The low-growing types are adapted for use in the more intimate, small garden areas, where the taller types should be used with great care. It must be remembered that many types of wild garden perennials, such as the day lilies, the bergamot, and the Japanese loosestrife, will multiply so rapidly that they will crowd out many of the less vigorous plants such as hepatica and spring beauty which are not able to survive such competition. Consequently it is not safe to say that material se’scted for wild garden areas does not require a certain amount of care after the first planting of the garden. It should also be borne very definitely in mind that plants such as the cardinal flower, some irises, the blazing star, the lily-of-the-valley, the cowslip, and the violet require partial shade and a moist condition of the soil, while such types as the bee- balm, sweet william, asters, and moss pink thrive in a much more ex- posed and lighter soil. The success of a wild garden, either large or small, depends very largely upon the proper selection of materials to produce the required effects. The development of wild garden plant- ing requires a series of years in which to complete it and bring it to perfection. It is a process, beyond a certain point, of the survival of the fittest, and the elimination finally of those plants which prove through the first few years their inability to meet the soil and exposure requirements of the local situation. A successful wild garden area never shows the amount of work that has been expended in its develop- ment, because every detail looks finally as though nature had pro- vided it without the assistance of man. Perennials for wild garden planting are not in use as much as they should be even in extensive estate development, because of the lack of knowledge concerning the ability of many of the wild flowers PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 217 to adapt themselves to these new environments. Yet this group of plants provides to those who are really interested in the development of our wild flowers an excellent source of satisfaction. In this day of large country estates with the varying types of garden conditions there is no reason why the wild garden consisting of plants which have be- come naturalized should not be as important as any other type of garden, especially to those who are real garden lovers. It is true that many of these plants, such as the varieties of the native ferns, require special conditions of the soil from a standpoint of soil texture, special conditions of the soil from the standpoint of moisture, and also special conditions of exposure concerning the question of open sunlight and the question of shade. It is unfair to expect that any plants which we attempt to naturalize in the wild garden development will continue to grow under conditions which are exactly opposite from the condi- tions of nature in which these plants have been living a “‘happy ” exist- ence in their surroundings of soil and sunlight. The wild garden requires, more than anything else, a soil which contains plenty of humus and is commonly termed leaf mold soil. If such soil is not avatable then only well-rotted manure or compost should be used. No fertilizer such as sheep manure, dried blood, or other fertilizers commonly used for the forcing of plants should be applied to wild garden material. | In the use of perennials another problem is often met: that of select- ing proper types for planting at the water’s edge. These plants must be of the kind that will thrive with their “feet in water.” The group from which selection can be made is comparatively limited, especially with reference to genera. Many of these plants, such as the lemon lily, the loosestrife, and the iris will soon spread beyond control if not carefully thinned out and kept within bounds during the succeeding years. Most of this material is adapted to growth in the open sun and will not withstand extreme shade conditions. In the selection of perennials to be used in the development of the large flower garden areas the entire field of perennials is open from which to choose. The development of a small, refined flower garden, the intimate details of which add to its charm, requires a more careful knowledge of perennials, especially of those which usage has proven cannot be safely introduced into such limited areas. These types of perennials should be avoided in the development of a small flower garden, They can be used by one who will give them consistent at- 218 THE COMPLETE GARDEN tention to keep them within bounds by staking and cutting back. Otherwise they will produce a loose, ragged effect not in keeping with the neat lines desired in a small garden, and will often crowd out inter- esting types of smaller perennials which mean more to the success of the garden. Most varieties of the hardy aster or Michaelmas daisy, the sneeze- weed, the loosestrife, and the plume poppy are too rampant and vigorous in their habit of growth to be successful in a small garden. The most important requirement in the development of any flower garden is to provide perpetual bloom throughout the growing season. There are a variety of combinations of perennials which can be used to accomplish this purpose. As illustrative of a possible range of plants it is well to list some of the thoroughly tested varieties that will grow in any good garden soil and which will provide flowers from early spring until late fall. For a person who understands plants to some extent the lists of perennials, grouped according to colour and season, will make an excellent source of reference from which to select types for continuous blooming effects. There are some perennials, among the most important of which are the peony, of which the blooming period is very short and the foliage effect during a great part of the summer may be consequently mo- notonous and uninteresting. In such plants it is highly desirable to have touches of colour throughout the later parts of the season. To accomplish this there can be introduced, among the peony plants, such types as the monkshood, the blazing star, lilies and gladioli, to provide flowers and add interest to the otherwise monotonous mass of green leaves. A considerable part of the success of any perennial flower garden is the presence of groups of perennials which present good blooming combinations. Often a garden is seen where some particular colour note attracts special attention. On close examination it is found that this effect is produced by a combination of colour brought about by the successful grouping of two or more perennials. The average garden lover cannot become familiar, from his limited study of plants, with all of the interesting types of perennials which produce colour effects that harmonize with each other. A list of these groupings has been included in this chapter, and through further study many others may be found which will be equally effective. Annuals are most often planted because of their ahility to produce PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 219 flowers for cutting. Many perennials are planted for this same purpose. There are a few perennials, such as the blanket flower, ball of snow, larkspur, and marguerite, which are benefited by con- stant cutting, and the flowering season of which is lengthened through this process. There are other perennials, such as the foxglove, peony, and iris, with which the process of cutting flowers does not encourage growth of others during the same season. If such perennials are to be used for cut-flower purposes it is best to plant them in a distinct cut-flower garden. The same discussion concerning a cut-flower garden, and a flower garden as an interesting design, applies to the planting of perennials in the same manner that it applies to the planting of annuals (See Chapter XXXII, Page 238). The majority of perennials will continue to increase from year to year and will require “dividing” and transplanting every two or three years. There are other perennials which should be treated as biennials and accordingly replaced completely by new plants at the end of every second year. These plants, such as the foxglove, white pink, English daisy, and bellflower will “run out” after a period of two or three years. They will still continue to grow, but their vigour will be so much less that their presence will be but an apology for strong, healthy speci- mens. All of these plants are known as perennials; but in reality they develop only as biennials. Other perennials, such as the aster, phlox, and iris, which grow into large clumps, should be divided at least every three years. If they are not so treated they will become crowded and the plants will not have space to develop properly and the result will be spindly, unhealthy plants which will not produce normal flower effects. But the peony, in good soil, with space of a diameter of approximately three feet in which to grow, is best left to grow undisturbed for a score of years or more (Page 88). Taken on the whole, no more picturesque or graceful effects can be produced anywhere than by appropriate planting along the banks of ponds and streams. The more bold and picturesque a planting mass is, the better it looks when reflected in a still pool; while the flowing lines of a stream are supplemented by the graceful, arching branches of shrubs and vines. Among the most successful and beautiful plants for watersides are the herbaceous perennials. Perennials for planting in deep water are largely confined to the lotus and water lilies. These plants should not be permanently planted in ponds which freeze solid during the winter, nor where there is not 220 THE COMPLETE GARDEN plenty of rich soil on the bottom, and an abundance of clear water and uninterrupted sunlight. The best locations are on the margins of sluggish streams and of bays and in sheltered nooks. Water which flows too swiftly or is too cold or contains mud is not good for aquatic plants, nor should they be planted in newly constructed cement tanks which have not been thoroughly washed and rinsed so as to remove all the caustic property of the new cement. The best fertilizer for aquatic plants is cow manure, which may be mixed with twice its bulk of strong loam and used for planting beds. In the water near the margin of a pond many more sorts of aquatic and bog plants may be used, such as the native irises or flags, water plantains, bulrushes, arrowheads, and marsh marigolds. These plants are more hardy and less exacting in their requirements. In- deed, they are likely, when congenial conditions occur, to grow so luxuriantly as to prove annoying if planted in very large quantities. A rich alluvial mud provides the proper soil for most sorts, and once established where there is not too much lime in the water, or too swift a current, they will take care of themselves. For planting on the land at the water’s side, a still larger list of plants is available. These include many of our common herbaceous garden perennials, such as sneeze-weed, Japanese iris, and lemon lily, as well as native herbs, such as gentians, cow parsnips, and some of our native orchids. With these perennials should be combined, if possible, some of the moisture-loving native shrubs. For this purpose nothing is bet- ter than the swamp honeysuckle, button bush, red chokeberry, rhodora, leather leaf, and wild rosemary, not to mention the more commonly known dogwoods or cornels. If no special place is assigned to perennials, room may always be found for some in the shrub border. Here there should be reluctance to place any sorts that require considerable culture or the full develop- ment of which might be desired, particularly if they be sorts that are prized. One would be loath to subject a valuable variety of the peony, for example, to a life-long competition with vigorous shrubs which, in addition to sending out more rapid-growing roots, would have the advantage of overtopping it. But there are certain types of perennials that can, in every way, be appropriately used to fill bare spaces among shrubs that do not yet cover all the space, or at the front edge of the border. Here at the edge, if the shrubs do not droop too low or are not too vigorous in their habit of growth, may be found a place for a PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 221 fine thing like the evergreen candytuft. In the edge of the shrubbery bed can always be found room for some bulbs; they really seem to prefer the slight protection of the overhanging branches and the soil around the roots of the other plants. An additional consideration is that the flowering season of bulbs is not encroached upon by the foliage of the shrubs, as would occur to the detriment of perennials that flower later in the year. Formal regularity in planting should be avoided because most perennials and bulbs appear best in small masses or clumps. In designing a border planting of perennials or annuals located at the edge of masses of shrubs an ample width of four or five feet should be allowed, especially if this is the only place for the development of a flower border. Unless this provision is made and frequent pruning of the shrubs resorted to, the branches of the shrubs even then are apt to encroach upon the smaller plants at the front. This does not, however, apply to bulbs. Where it is necessary to develop a flower border in combination with a border of shrubs which shall serve as its background, little success will follow the attempt to develop such a border, especially in relation to tall-growing shrubs, if the flower border is placed upon the north side. If the shrub border or hedge is to consist of tall and vigorous-growing shrubs or columnar trees to provide a screen against objectionable views, the designer must always remember that competition of perennials with the greedy root systems of such plants will starve the perennials. LIST OF PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES A. Types oF Harpy PERENNIALS FOR GENERAL Use. For the average person who is developing a small garden a knowledge of some of the standard types of hardy perennials, which are well adapted for general use, will often meet the requirements. This group contains standard types of perennials which are adapted for general use, and which with ordinary cultivation will produce interesting flower effects. Anemone japonica Chrysanthemum Japanese Windflower Chrysanthemum Anthemts tinctoria kelwayt Delphinium Hardy Marguerite Larkspur Aquilegia Dianthus Columbine Pink Aster Doronicum plantagineum Aster Leopard’s Bane 222 B. PERENNIALS ACCORDING TO COLOUR AND SEASON. its sub-groups, is an interesting group. The division of seasons in these groups is merely relative and is made for the purpose of obtaining some relationship in the succession of bloom throughout the growing Many perennials in these groups lap over from one group into the other, but for convenience of reference they are listed only in the season during which they are at their height of bloom. The subdivisions into colours of flowers, as a matter of easy reference, will prove valuable as a check on one’s memory and a saving of time in being able to readily select flowers for varying colour effects at differ- season. THE COMPLETE GARDEN Iris Iris Lilium Lily ent seasons. a. Paeonia Peony Phlox Phlox Perennials for spring—purple, lavender, or blue flowers: Ajuga genevensis Erect Bugle Anchusa ttalica Italian Alkanet Mertensta virginica Bluebell Myosotis palustris semperflorens Forget-me-not This, with Aquilegia caerulea hybrida _ Rocky Mountain Columbine Aubrietia deltoidea graeca Grecian Purple Rock Cress Polemonium reptans Greek Valerian Primula denticulata Himalayan Primrose Iris cristata Crested Iris Iris germanica hybrids German Iris Tris pumila azurea European Dwarf Iris Iris versicolor Dwarf Blue Flag Linum perenne Perennial Flax Saxifraga cordtfolia Saxifrage Tradescantia Spiderwort Veronica incana Hoary Speedwell Vinca minor Periwinkle Viola cornuta Tufted Pansy Viola odorata Scented Violet Perennials for spring—white flowers: Anemone pennsylvanica Canadian Windflower Anemone sylvestris Snowdrop Windflower Aquilegia nivea grandiflora White Columbine Arabis albida Rock Cress (1$z aded 99g) ‘aAoge pazvsqsN]|I qeid SULIaMOY-9S01 a[qnop-ltuas $s Jayaplayog jo adAy auy aya ULYI UONLIapIsUod a[quINOAR} d1OUW SdAJasap qn1ys JO 912 ZuLaMoy ou Suueyd usueurtad ay ul “[[TXXX ALVIg 3 Pu ee Saye: rs; és tk a Gigs Ose aan : ee oS bees = : ee ne s pet L bie Cen 3 Pirate XXXIII. As a specimen flowering plant for early spring effect, the Japanese weeping rose-flowered cherry is extremely interesting, covered, al- ways before the leaves appear, with an abundance of rose-pink flowers. (See page 154, group XI X-A) PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 223 Arabis alpina Paeonia officinalis alba Alpine Rock Cress Old-fashioned Peony Armeria maritima alba Paeonta suffruticosa White Sea Thrift Tree Peony Cerastium tomentosum Phlox subulata alba Snow-in-summer White Ground Pink Convallaria majalis Sanguinaria canadensis Lily-of-the-valley Bloodraot Dianthus plumarius Stellaria holostea Scotch Pink Starwort Helleborus niger Thalictrum aquilegifolium Christmas Rose Meadow-rue Iberis sempervirens Trillium grandiflorum Evergreen Candytuft Large-flowered Wake Robin Viola cornuta alba Horned Violet c. Perennials for spring—pink to crimson flowers: Aquilegia canadensis Geum coccineum American Columbine Avens Aquilegia formosa hybrida Heuchera sanguinea California Hybrid Columbine Coral-bells Aquilegia hybrida Rose Queen Tris germanica Queen of May Hybrid Pink Columbine Pink German Iris Armeria maritima laucheana Paeonia officinalis Lauch’s Sea Thrift Old-fashioned Red Peony Bellis perennts Paeonta suffruticosa English Daisy Tree Peony Dianthus deltordes Paeonia tenuifolia Maiden Pink Fennel-leaved Peony Dianthus plumarius Phlox stolonifera Scotch Pink Creeping Phlox Dicentra spectabilis Phlox subulata Bleeding Heart Moss Pink Geranium sanguineum Primula japonica Crane’s Bill Japanese Primrose Saponaria ocymoides Rock Soapwort d. Perennials for spring—yellow to orange flowers: Adonis vernalts Doronicum excelsum Pheasant’s Eye Leopard’s Bane Alyssum saxatile Geum heldreichi Golden Tuft Orange Avenas Aquilegia chrysantha Helianthemum croceum Gold-spurred Columbine Rock Rose Baptisia tinctoria Iris germanica flavescens Yellow False Indigo German Iris 224 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Tris pseudacorus Yellow Water Flag Tris pumila hybrida European Dwarf Iris Primula veris English Cowslip Trollius europaeus Globe-flower Viola cornuta lutea Yellow Horned Violet Perennials for summer—purple, lavender, or blue flowers: Baptisia australis Blue Indigo Campanula carpatica Carpathian Harebell Campanula medium Canterbury Bells Campanula persicifolia Peach-leaved Harebell Campanula pyramidalis Chimney Bell-flower Centaurea montana Mountain Bluet Clematis davidiana David’s Clematis Delphinium (in variety) Larkspur Echinops ritro Globe Thistle Eryngium amethystinum Amethyst Sea Holly Funkia caerulea Blue Plantain Lily Funktia fortunet Fortune’s Plantain Lily Funkia lanctfolia Spear-leaved Plantain Lily Funkia sieboldiana Siebold’s Plantain Lily Iris kaempferi Japanese Iris Iris pallida dalmatica Dalmatian Iris Iris sibirica Siberian Iris Lobelia syphilitica Blue Cardinal Flower Lupinus polyphyllus Perennial Lupin Phlox paniculata variety Crepuscule variety Esperance variety Blue Hill (royal purple) variety Le Mahdi variety Antoine Mercie Garden Phlox Platycodon grandiflorum Balloon Flower Scabiosa caucasica Mourning Bride Statice latifolia Broad-leaved Sea Lavender Stokesia cyanea Stokes’ Aster Veronica longifolia subsessilis Japanese Speedwell Veronica spicata Spike-flowered Speedwell Perennials for summer—white flowers: Achillea boule de neige Ball of Snow Althaea rosea alba Hollyhock Artemisia lactiflora Southernwood Aruncus sylvester Goat’s Beard Astilbe japonica Japanese Astilbe Bocconta cordata Plume Poppy Campanula carpatica alba Carpathian Harebell Campanula medium calycanthema alba Canterbury Bell Campanula persicifolia alba Peach-leaved Harebell Campanula pyramidalis alba Chimney Bell-flower PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 225 Chrysanthemum shasta daisy Shasta Daisy Clematis recta Herbaceous Clematis Delphinium grandiflorum album Chinese Larkspur Dianthus barbatus—white Sweet William Dictamnus fraxinella alba Gas Plant Filipendula hexapetala flore pleno Dropwort Funkia subcordata grandiflora Large-flowered Plantain Lily Gypsophila paniculata Baby’s Breath Iris kaempferi—white Japanese Iris Iris sibirica Snow Queen Siberian Iris Paeonia albiflora sinensis (in variety) Chinese Peony Papaver orientale—white Oriental Poppy Phlox paniculata (in variety) Garden Phlox Phlox suffruticosa Miss Lingard Early-flowering Phlox Sidalcea candida Sidalcea Yucca filamentosa Adam’s Needle Perennials for summer—pink to crimson flowers: Althaea rosea Hollyhock Astilbe davidi David’s Spirea Campanula medium—pink Canterbury Bells Dianthus barbatus Sweet William Dicentra eximia Wild Bleeding Heart Dictamnus fraxinella Gas Plant Digitalis purpurea rosea Pink Foxglove Lobelia cardinalis Cardinal Flower Lychnis chalcedonica Maltese Cross Lychnis coronaria Mullein Pink Lychnts viscaria splendens Ragged Robin Lythrum salicaria roseum superbum Pink Loose-strife Monarda didyma Bergamot Paeonia albiflora sinensis Chinese Peony Papaver orientale (in variety) Oriental Poppy Pentstemon barbatus Bearded Pentstemon Phlox paniculata (in variety) Garden Phlox Physostegia virginiana False Dragon Head Pyrethrum roseum Painted Daisy Perennials for summer—yellow to orange flowers: Achillea tomentosa Yellow Milfoil Althaea rosea—yellow Hollyhock Anthemis tinctoria kelwayi Hardy Marguerite Centaurea macrocephala Knapweed Cephalaria tatarica Giant Scabiosa Coreopsis grandiflora Tickseed Coreopsis lanceolata Lance-leaved Tickseed Digitalis grandiflora Yellow Foxglove 226 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Gatllardia aristata Hypericum moserianum Blanket Flower Gold-flower Helianthus (in variety) Oenothera missourtensis Hardy Sun-flower Missouri Primrose Heliopsis (in variety) Rudbeckia (in variety) Ox-eye Daisy Cone-flower Hemerocallis (in variety) Thalictrum adiantifoliwm Day Lily Maidenhair Thalictrum Thermopsis caroliniana False Lupine 1. Perennials for autumn—purple, lavender, or blue flowers: Aconitum (in variety) Caryopteris incana (treat as a perennial) Monkshood Blue Spirea Aster—Hardy varieties Ceratostigma plumbaginotdes Climax—Blue Leadwort Edward VII—Blue Eupatorium coelestinum Ed Beckett—Blue Mist Flower Feltham’s Blue ; Salvia azurea grandiflora novae-angliae—V iolet Blue Salvia tartaricus—Violet (Last to bloom) Statice latifolia Broad-leaved Sea Lavender j. Perennials for autumn—white flowers: Anemone japonica Caryopteris incana candida (treat Japanese Windflower as a perennial) Artemisia lactiflora Blue Spirea ' ; Southernwood Cea in ane : j ardy Chrysanthemum ee ere Eupatorium ageratoides y White Snakeroot Boltonia asteroides _ Hibiscus moscheutos Aster-like Boltonia Swamp Mallow Sedum (in variety) Stonecrop k. Perennials for autumn—pink to crimson flowers: Anemone japonica—pink Chrysanthemum (in variety) Japanese Windflower Hardy Chrysanthemum Aster (in variety) ; ; Hibiscus moscheutos Perry’s Favorite Swamp Mallow St. Egwin ; : novae-angliae rubra Kniphofia uvaria Perry’s Pink Red-hot Poker Plant Boltonia latisquama Sedum (in variety) Broad-scaled Boltonia Stonecrop PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 227 l. Perennials for autumn—yellow to orange flowers: Helenium Riverton Beauty Yellow Sneezeweed Kniphofia pfitzeri Red-hot Poker Plant Chrysanthemum (in variety) Hardy Chrysanthemum Helenium autumnale Yellow Sneezeweed Solidago (in variety) Goldenrod C. PERENNIALS FoR NATURALIZING IN WILD GARDEN Areas. This group contains two sub-groups showing types of perennials which are valuable for naturalizing in wild garden areas. Most of these plants will thrive in the open sun, as contrasted with the preceding list of plants under Chapter XXVIII. a. Tall types: Actaea alba White Baneberry Anemone pennsylvanica Canadian Windflower Aquilegia canadensis American Columbine Aquilegia vulgaris European Columbine Aruncus sylvester Goat’s Beard Asclepias tuberosa Butterfly Weed Aster cordifolius Starwort Aster Aster corymbosus Wild Aster Aster ericoides White Heath Aster Cimicifuga racemosa Snakeroot Digitalis purpurea Foxglove Echinacea purpurea Purple Cone-flower Eupatorium purpureum Joe-pye Weed Fern (in variety) Fern Fikpendula hexapetala Herbaceous Meadow-sweet Filipendula rubra Japanese Meadow-sweet Helianthus (in variety) Hardy Sun-flower Hemerocallis (in variety) Day Lily Hesperis matronalis Sweet Rocket Iris pseudacorus Yellow Water Flag Iris sibirica Siberian Iris Iris versicolor Dwarf Blue Flag Liatris pycnostachya Blazing Star Lobelia cardinalis Cardinal Flower Lychnis (in variety) | Catchfly Lysimachia clethroides Japanese Loose-strife Monarda fistulosa Wild Bergamot Phlox divaricata Wild Sweet William Polemonium caeruleum American Jacob’s Ladder Senecio clivorum Groundsel 228 Sidalcea candida Sidalcea Smilacina racemosa False Spikenard b. Low types: Aspidium marginale Margined Fern Asperula hexaphylla oodruff Claytonia virginica Spring Beauty Convallaria majalis Lily-of-the-valley Hepatica triloba Hepatica Heuchera sanguinea Coral-bell Iris cristata Crested Iris Lamium maculatum Dead Nettle Mitchella repens Partridge Berry Myosotis palustris Forget-me-not Ocenothera biennis Evening Primrose Phlox divaricata THE COMPLETE GARDEN Solidago canadensis Goldenrod Thalictrum aquilegifolium Meadow-rue Tradescantia (in variety) Phlox ovata Mountain Phlox Phlox stolonifera Creeping Phlox Phlox subulata Moss Pink Polemonium reptans Greek Valerian Polygonatum multiflorum Solomon’s Seal Primula (in variety) Primrose Sanguinaria canadensis Bloodroot Saponartia ocymoides Rock Soapwort Trillium grandiflorum Large-flowered Wake Robin Tunica saxtfraga Saxifrage-like Tunica Viola canadensis Canadian Violet Viola canina Wild Sweet William Dog-tooth Violet D. PERENNIALS FoR Lonc FLowerinc Periop. Not only are peren- uals selected because of the colours of the flowers and other character- istics such as good blooming combinations, perpetual bloom, and good flowers, as shown in the following groups, but many times certain types are selected because of their long blooming period. Such plants as the yellow marguerite, the Shasta daisy, the blanket flower, and certain hardy phloxes, are very valuable in the garden because they produce flowers over a long blooming period, extending in instances for three or four weeks. Some of these plants require cutting back, like the larkspurs and nettle-leaved mulleins, thus causing them te pro- duce a second crop of bloom. They are all useful to insure a bridging of the gaps between the flowering period of other sorts or to plant in those places where only one, or at most a few sorts, can be used. The PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 229 tickseed, the Shasta daisy, the blanket flower, and the scabiosa all carry their bloom at intervals from June until frost, while the violet, the for- get-me-not, and the toad-flax start in May and last until well into August. Achillea ptarmica flore pleno Lathyrus lattfolius Double Tansy Hardy Sweet Pea Anthemts tinctoria kelwayt Linaria dalmatica Hardy Marguerite Dalmatian Toad-flax Campanula carpatica Lychnis coronaria Carpathian Harebell Mullein Pink Chrysanthemum maximum King Myosotis palustris semperflorens ward Forget-me-not Large Shasta Daisy ; Oenothera fruticosa youngt Coreopsis lanceolata f Lege aedtl Young’s Evening Primrose Tickseed Pus ee fg ; é apaver nudicaule a (in variety) fecliud Papay oeaibucideliowdes Phlox glaberrima suffruticosa Riaiden Pick Early Garden Phlox Gaillardia aristata Scabiosa graminifolia Blanket Flower Grass-leaved Scabiosa Geum coccineum Scabiosa sylvatica Avens Woodland Scabiosa Heuchera brizoides Tradescantia virginica Red Coral-bells Common Spiderwort Knifophia uvaria Verbascum (in variety) Red-hot Poker Plant Nettle-leaved Mullein Viola cornuta Tufted Pansy FE. PErERENNIALS SELDomM Usep 1Nn Sati, REFINED, ForRMAL GarDens. This group contains a few types which should be con- sistently avoided in the development of a small, formal flower garden, where refinement of detail is the main requirement. These plants, when not given careful attention, such as staking and constant cutting back, will produce a loose, ragged effect and will crowd out many of the small types of perennials which are admirably adapted for use in small formal flower gardens. Achillea ptarmica flore pleno Aster (in variety) Double Tansy Hardy Aster Aconitum wilsoni Astilbe grandis Wilson’s Monkshood Large-flowered Astilbe Althaea rosea Bocconta cordata Hollyhock Plume Poppy Arundo donax Boltonia asteroides Giant Reed Aster-like Boltonia 230 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Eupatorium (in variety) Miscanthus (in variety) White Snakeroot Plume Grass Filipendula camtschatica Physostegia virginiana Siberian Goat’s Beard False Dragon Head Helenium autumnale superbum Polygonum sachalinense Tall Sneezeweed Knotweed Helianthus (in variety) Rudbeckia laciniata Hardy Sun-flower Golden Glow Hibiscus moscheutos Rudbeckia maxima Swamp Mallow Cone-flower Liatris pycnostachya Solidago (in variety) Blazing Star Goldenrod Lythrum salicaria roseum Stenanthium robustum Pink Loose-strife Mountain Feather Fleece F. PERENNIALS TO SupPLy “PERPETUAL BLoom.” This group of perennials will prove helpful in providing continuous bloom through- out the season. Most of these plants are the well-known, thoroughly tested kinds which will grow in any average garden soil and will combine well in their colour effects and habits of growth. By a lover of flowers, who has acquired expert knowledge of flowers, many similar groupings can be formed. Anemone japonica Gaillardia aristata Japanese Windflower Blanket Flower Aquilegia hybrida Helleborus niger Columbine Christmas Rose Asier (in variety) Hemerocallis (in variety) Hardy Aster Day Lily Boltonia asteroides Iris germanica Aster-like Boltonia German Iris Chrysanthemum (in variety) Iris kaempfert Hardy Chrysanthemum Japanese Iris Chrysanthemum shasta daisy Paeonia albiflora sinensis Shasta Daisy Chinese Peony Delphinium belladonna Phlox paniculata Everblooming Larkspur Garden Phlox Dicentra spectabilis Rudbeckia maxima Bleeding Heart Cone-flower Viola cornuta hybrida Horned Violet G. PERENNIALS FoR Use Amonc Peontes. When peonies have completed their period of flowering there remains during the balance of the season a mass of green foliage which can often be made much more interesting by the addition of a few types of perennials which do not require any considerable space for their development, and which Pirate XXXIV. It is a source of much satisfaction to the plant designer to know that shrubs which are carefully selected for the colour of their flowers may produce very effective colour combinations. This plate shows the St. John’s Wort (A), in combination with the sweet-scented buddleia (B). Prate XXXV. ‘The average person who has not become interested in the colour effect produced by the fruits of our common trees and shrubs can hardly appreciate the intense colour display of the American bittersweet (A), the Washington thorn (B) and the white fringe (C). For flowers: (D) bittersweet, (E) thorn and (F) fringe. (See page 162, group XX-B) Pirate XXXVI. The garden designer must always bear in mind that many of our shrubs which produce very uninteresting flowers are the ones which pro- duce our most attractive fruiting effects. The variation in colours of the fruits ranges from the pure white of the snowberry (A), through the purple and porcelain blue of the beauty fruit (C), to the vivid reds of which the Japanese bush cranberry (B) is typical. For flowers: (ID) beauty fruit, (E) snowberry, (F) Japanese bush cranberry. (See page 162, group X X-B) £ ic ® i ¢ er , PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 231 will lend touches of colour to this mass of green during the summer months. Aconitum fischert Kniphofia pfitzert Monkshood Red-hot Poker Plant Aconitum napellus Liatris (in variety) Monkshood Blazing Star Gladiolus (in variety) Lilium (See List No. XXXIII-F) Sword Flower Lily Hyacinthus candicans Physostegia virginiana Summer Hyacinth False Dragon Head H. PERENNIALS FOR Goop BLoominG ComBinaTions. The fol- lowing group contains interesting combinations of perennials which, if planted together, will produce in each case a pleasing colour effect. The perennial garden is valuable for two effects: either for a succession of bloom, or for interesting colour combinations of those flowers which bloom at the same time. ‘The following is an endeavour to provide such combinations :* Rosa foetida harisoni and Aquilegia caerulea, blue. 2. Heuchera sanguinea, coral; Aquilegia caerulea, blue; Iris germanica Kharput, purple. -3. Paeonta festiva maxima, white; Dianthus latifolius atrococcineus, crimson; Paeonia, pink (in variety); Clematis recta, white (as background) and Dianthus bar- batus, variety “‘Newport’’, pink. . Iris pallida dalmatica, lavender; and Thermopsis caroliniana, yellow. Cerastium tomentosum, white; Linum perenne, blue. Phlox Miss Lingard, white; and Campanula persicifolia caerulea, blue. Phlox Miss Lingard, white; Aquilegia chrysantha, yellow; and Heuchera sanguinea, coral. 8. Hemerocallis flava, or Anthems tinctoria kelwayi, yellow; with Delphinium for- mosum or Baptisia australis, blue; or Iris Celeste, blue. 9. Hemerocallis fulva, orange with Clematis recta, white. 10. Coreopsis lanceolata, or Thermopsis caroliniana, yellow; with Delphinium in deep blue shades. 11. Chrysanthemum shasta daisy, white; Anthemis tinctoria kelwayt, yellow; and Delphinium belladonna, blue. 12. Delphinium belladonna or hybrids, blue; and Lilium candidum, white. 13. Anchusa italica, blue; and Anthemts tinctoria kelwayt, yellow. 14. Chrysanthemum shasta daisy, white; and Iris kaempfert in purple shades, or Dianthus Napoleon III, crimson. 15. Monarda didyma Cambridge, scarlet; and Phlox paniculata, white. 16. Phlox paniculata, pink; Lilium speciosum, white; and Veronica longifolia subsesst- lis, violet. 17. Thalictrum dipterocarpum, blue; Veronica longifolia subsessilis, violet; and Ane- mone japonica, white. SoS *For common names refer to index and page references. 232 18. 19. 20. 21: 22. 23. L THE COMPLETE GARDEN Veronica spicata, blue; and Oenothera missouriensis, yellow. Eupatorium ageratoides, white; and Helenium Riverton Beauty, yellow and black. Eupatorium ageratoides, white; and Chrysanthemum, Glory of Seven Oaks, yellow. Buddleia (in variety), lilac, lavender, violet, purple; and Anemone japonica, white or pink. Anemone japonica, white and pink; and Aconitum autumnale, blue. Aster Climax, blue; and Helenium Riverton Beauty, yellow and black. PERENNIALS VALUABLE FOR CuT FLowers. ‘The perennial cut- flower garden should provide an abundance of cut flowers. Most of the perennials in this group will provide flowers which can be cut for house use and which have lasting qualities. ‘There are many perennials which do not produce masses of flowers of sufficient substance to be effective when cut for house use. Achillea boule de neige Ball of Snow Anemone japonica Japanese Windflower Aquilegia (long-spurred hybrids) Columbine Aster novae-angliae Climax Blue Hardy Aster Astilbe japonica Japanese Astilbe Boltonia asteroides Aster-like Boltonia Centaurea montana Mountain Bluet Chrysanthemum (in variety) Chrysanthemum Chrysanthemum shasta daisy Shasta Daisy Convallaria majalis Lily-of-the-valley Coreopsis lanceolata Lance-leaved Tickseed Delphinium (in variety) Larkspur Dianthus barbatus Sweet William Digitalis (in variety) Foxglove Eupatorium coelestinum Mist Flower Veronica (in variety) Speedwell Gaillardia aristata Blanket Flower Gypsophila paniculata Baby’s Breath Helianthus (in variety) Hardy Sun-flower Heuchera sanguinea Coral-bells Iris germanica German Iris Iris kaempferi Japanese Iris Kniphofia uvaria Red-hot Poker Plant Paeonta (in variety) Peony Physostegia virginiana False Dragonhead Phlox paniculata Garden Phlox Primula (in variety) Primrose Pyrethrum roseum Painted Daisy Rudbeckia (in variety) Cone-flower Scabiosa caucasica Mourning Bride Stokesia cyanea Stokes’ Aster PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 233 J. Perenniats WuicH SHOULD BE TREATED As BIENNIALS. There are certain plants generally known as perennials which will “run out” in the average garden after a period of two to three years. They may still continue to grow, but after the first two years they are much less vigorous. The plants in this group should be planted with the idea that at the end of two years the old plants will be re- moved and new ones put into their places. Antirrhinum majus Hedysarum coronarium Snapdragon French Honeysuckle Bellis perennis Lunaria annua English Daisy Honesty Campanula medium Lychnts alba Canterbury Bells White Pink Campanula pyramidalis Lychnis coronaria Chimney Bell-flower Mullein Pink Dianthus barbatus Lychnis dioica Sweet William Red Campion Digitalis purpurea Viola cornuta Foxglove Tufted Pansy Glaucium luteum Viola tricolor Yellow Horned Poppy Pansy K. PERENNIALS TO BE TRANSPLANTED FREQUENTLY. ‘There are certain perennials which require special attention for their best devel- opment. The perennials in this group should be taken up, divided, and replanted every two or three years, as they grow more vigor- ously and multiply faster than the other groups of perennials. | a. To be diwided every two years: Anemone japonica Lychnis coronaria Japanese Windflower Mullein Pink A ord act Monarda didyma ees Bergamot Chrysanthemum (hardy, large- flowered varieties) Hardy Chrysanthemum Paeonta (in variety) Peony (only to multiply) Helianthemum croceum Phlox paniculata Rock Rose Garden Phlox Helianthus Rudbeckia Hardy Sun-flower Cone-flower b. To be divided every three years: Armeria (in variety) Phlox paniculata Sea Thrift Garden Phlox Tris (all varieties) Thymus serpyllum lanuginosus Iris Downy Thyme Viola (in variety) Violet 234 THE COMPLETE GARDEN c. To be divided each year: Anthemis tinctoria kelwayt Bocconia cordata Hardy Marguerite Plume Poppy Aster novae-angliae (in variety) Chrysanthemum indicum Hardy Garden Aster Pompom Chrysanthemum Aster novi-belgi (in variety) Chrysanthemum maximum Hardy Garden Aster Shasta Daisy Bellis perennis Helenium (in variety) English Daisy Sneezeweed L. PErReENNIALS FOR WaTER Piantinc. In the development of informal and formal pools the following group provides a ready reference for interesting types of perennials adapted for use in water gardens. For growing in wet soil along stream sides the closed gentian is one of the best plants. The cardinal flower naturally grows along stream sides or edges of ponds and will thrive, if in a damp soil, either in open sunlight or shade, but prefers shade. a. Deep water: Nelumbo (in variety) Nymphaea marliacea Lotus Hybrid Water-lily Nymphaea alba Nymphaea odorata White Water-lily Native Pond-lily Nymphaea odorata sulphurea Yellow Water-lily b. Shallow water: Acorus japonicus variegatus Cyperus strigosus Variegated Sweet Sedge Cyperus Alisma plantago Iris pseudacorus Great Water-plantain Yellow Water Flag Butomus umbellatus Phragmites communts Flowering Rush Common Reed Calla palustris Sagitiaria montevidensis Water Arum Giant Arrowhead Caltha palustris Scirpus lacustris Marsh Marigold Bulrush Carex Scirpus tabernaemontanus zebrinus Sedge Great Bulrush Thalia dealbata Thalia c. Land at water-side: Aruncus sylvester Aster (in variety) Goat’s Beard Hardy Aster Asclepias incarnata Astilbe davidt Swamp Milkweed David’s Spirea aw ee PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 235 Caltha palustris flore pleno Marsh Marigold Eupatorium ageratoides White Snakeroot Eupatorium coelestinum Mist Flower Filipendula purpurea Steeple Bush Gentiana andrewst Closed Gentian Helenium autumnale superbum Tall Sneezeweed Helonias bullata Swamp-pink Hemerocallis flava Lemon Lily Heracleum mantegazzianum Giant Cow-parsnip Hibiscus moscheutos Swamp Mallow Iris kaempfert Japanese Iris Iris orientalis Oriental Iris Leucanthemum lacustre Leucanthemum Leucojum aestivum Summer Snowflake Lobelia cardinalis Cardinal Flower Lystmachia vulgaris Common Yellow Loose-strife Lythrum salicaria roseum Pink Loose-strife Miscanthus (in variety) Plume Grass Myosotis palustris Forget-me-not Phalaris arundinacea Ribbon-grass Primula japonica (in variety) Japanese Primrose Rheum officinale Medicinal Rhubarb Sarracenia drummondt Pitcher Plant Senecio clivorum Groundsel Thalictrum dipterocarpum Meadow-rue M. PERENNIALS FOR PLANTING ON EDGE OF AND IN FRONT OF Surus BorpDers. a. b. Low Growing: Cerastium tomentosum Snow-in-summer Ceratostigma plumbaginoides Leadwort Funkia (in variety) Plantain Lily Tall Growing: Acanthus Bear’s Breech Aster Starwort Baptisia alse Indigo Bocconia Plume Poppy Iberis sempervirens Evergreen Candytuft Saxifraga (in variety) Saxifrage Sedum (in variety) Stonecrop Doronicum Leopard’s Bane Ferns Native Ferns Helianthus Hardy Sun-flower Hemerocallis Day Lily Hibiscus moscheutos hybrida Mallow Marvels 236 THE COMPLETE GARDEN N. PereNNIALS For Atrractinc Humminc Birps. Humming birds have long bills and hollow tongues which permit them to search for insects and honey in their favourite flowers. By planting some of the following sorts of perennials, as well as the trumpet vine, these beautiful birds will be encouraged to visit the garden. Aconitum (in variety) Dianthus barbatus Monkshood Sweet William Althaea rosea Digitalis gloxinaeflora Hollyhock Foxglove Aquilegia (in variety) Impatiens biflora Columbine Jewel-weed Delphinium (in variety) Lychnis (in variety) Larkspur Mullein Pink Melissa officinalis Lemon Balm CHAPTER XXXII ANNUALS No GARDEN is complete without its quota of annuals. The so- called perennial garden, to be really successful, must be supplemented each year with a quantity of annuals, especially if the garden is to be studied in close detail. If only the larger mass effects of flowers and foliage are required, a perennial planting properly selected is sufficient in itself. The opinion prevails among those who have devoted but little study to this subject that a complete flower garden can be developed during the first one or two years after planting through the use of properly selected types of perennials only. Such a garden may be developed after the first one or two years, under the care of an expert gardener. It is almost impossible to develop such a garden in the early stages, because perennials, on account of the nature of the plants, continue each year to increase their mass and so require more space for their normal development. Therefore, when perennials are first planted, sufficient space should be allowed between plants to permit of a normal development for at least three or four years, at the end of which period the clumps of plants, except the peony, should be “‘divided.” (See “Maintenance of Perennials.”) If the first planting is not over- crowded there will be during the first year, and often during the second year, bare spots in the garden which should be filled with annuals. Perennials during the first year after transplanting rarely become es- tablished sufficiently to produce normal flower effects, and this is one reason for the use of annuals to develop a successful garden. Annuals are plants which are grown from seed each year and whose roots die each winter. The roots of perennials continue to live in a dormant condition and develop new growth again at the top with the coming of the next spring. The first principle in the successful development of any flower gar- den is to determine the use for which the flower garden is developed. A garden designed, either of annuals or of perennials, to show a succession 237 238 THE COMPLETE GARDEN of interesting bloom and to make an interesting garden picture, either as masses of colour or spots of colour, is a different garden from the so-called cut-flower garden, from which the flowers, as soon as they mature, are apt to be cut and used for table decoration. The best success in garden development is obtained when a clear-cut line is drawn between the so-called cut-flower garden and the flower garden as a piece of landscape design. ‘There is nothing more discouraging to the expert designer than to see masses of flowers at the height of their bloom, and at a time when they should be most effective in the garden design, deliberately cut for table use and a resulting criticism ex- tended that the garden is not a success because it has no flowers. This discussion applies equally well to a garden filled with perennials and to a garden filled with annuals. A garden should be, if space permits, either for one purpose or for the other, and if a space is desired where cut flowers may be obtained, then a separate garden should be provided from which flowers may be cut as soon as they have matured. There are many interesting questions concerning the use of annuals. Perhaps the most interesting group of annuals is that containing the plants which are valuable for cut flowers, such as the larkspur, mari- gold, snapdragon, Mexican poppy, and nasturtium. These plants to be most successful for cut flowers should be in rows for purposes of cultivation, and given ample space to develop fully. Most of them, as with the other annuals which have early flowers, are sown in the seed beds in mid-February and early March or in the hot frames during the last of March and early April and later transplanted. Most of the annuals can be sown in the open ground during the last of April and early May, but the flowering season is apt to be much shorter because the flowers mature at a later date. There is a group of annuals which are extremely desirable as ground cover and edgings. They are plants which, when sown thin in the open ground, need not necessarily be thinned out although an in- telligent thinning is better. These annuals form beautiful edgings to the flower borders and fill many otherwise bare spaces in the front of the lower annual plantings. There is a group of annuals which should preferably be sown in the open ground where they are to bloom, and which should be thinned out to the proper spacing between plants as the small plants develop. These annuals are difficult to transplant successfully, and include such types as baby’s breath, lupine, nasturtium, cornflower, and poppy. PraTE XXXVII. Not only because of the interesting colour of its fruit in combination with the fruit of other shrubs, but because of the size and abundance of its fruit, the snowberry is one of our conspicuous and valuable shrubs. (See page 162, group XX-B) i b _ | - “f % ANNUALS 239 Annuals, unlike perennials, can be started in many instances at different periods during the season, in order to insure a succession of bloom. ‘There is a normal period required between the time of seed- ing and the time of blooming, and if this period is definitely known, then at intervals of not less than ten days or two weeks three or four successive sowings may be made in the early and late spring so that a continuous succession of bloom from these plants may be obtained during the summer months. Typical of these plants are the phlox, forget-me-not, and baby’s breath. Most of our annuals can be sown, if necessary, in the open ground. There are a few types, however, which must be started in seed beds, either in a greenhouse or in hot frames, in order to produce good bloom before the frost injures the tops. ‘These types include the China asters, cosmos, ten-weeks’ stock, petunia, and butterfly flower, all of which re- quire a longer season for the period of maturing after seeding. Many times when the seeds of these plants are sown late, the plants reach their mature development and are on the point of producing flowers when they are suddenly injured by an early frost. It often becomes necessary or desirable to supplement plantings of perennial or woody vines, which are naturally slow growing, with annual quick-growing vines to cover fences and lattice work. It is seldom that perennial vines can be planted and produce an adequate covering for a lattice work or fence during the first year. The time required for the full development of such woody vines as the clematis, bitter-sweet, and rose is from two to three years. In such instances the cup and saucer vine, hop vine, cardinal vine, and the morning glory can be planted to fill the bare areas during the first year or two. Many of these annual vines have a heavy foliage, valuable for screen effects, and the writer has therefore divided this group into two sub-groups, in- dicating those with delicate foliage and those with heavy foliage. LIST OF ANNUALS A. Annuats Espectatty VALUABLE FOR Cut FLowers. The group of annuals which are valuable for cut flowers is much greater than might be anticipated. This group is comprehensive and those plants which are marked with a star (*) are the most interesting types, and pro- vide the greatest abundance of cut flowers. The other annuals in the group are valuable for cut flowers, but should not be selected unless ample space exists so that the more important types also can be grown. 240 Ageratum houstonianum Floss Flower Alyssum maritimum Sweet Alyssum *Antirrhinum majus Snapdragon (treated as an annual) Arctotis grandis African Daisy Brachycome iberidifolia Swan River Daisy *Calendula officinalis Pot Marigold Callistephus hortensis China Aster *Centaurea americana American Cornflower Centaurea cyanus Old-fashioned Cornflower Centaurea impertalis Sweet Sultan *Chrysanthemum coronarium Summer Chrysanthemum *Coreopsis tinctoria Tickseed *Cosmos bipinnatus Cosmos *Delphinium ajacis Annual Larkspur Dianthus chinensis Chinese Pink Dianthus heddewigi Japanese Pink Emilia flammea Flora’s Paint-brush Eschscholtzia californica California Poppy Eucharidium grandiflorum arge-flowered Eucharidium *Gaillardia pulchella picta Blanket Flower Gomphrena globosa Globe Amaranth THE COMPLETE GARDEN Grasses in variety Grass *Gypsophila elegans Baby’s Breath *Helianthus annuus Single Annual Sunflower Helichrysum bracteatum Straw Flower | Heliotropium peruvianum Heliotrope Hunnemannia fumariaefolia Mexican Poppy Iberis umbellata Candytuft Impatiens balsamina Garden Balsam *Lathyrus odoratus Sweet Pea Matthiola incana Common Stock Nigella damascena Love-in-a-mist {Papaver (in variety) Annual Poppy Reseda odorata Mignonette *Salpiglossis sinuata Painted Tongue *Scabiosa atropurpurea Mourning Bride Schizanthus pinnatus Butterfly Flower Tagetes erecta pone Marigold, African varieties *Tropaeolum majus Nasturtium Verbena hybrida Verbena Viola tricolor Pansy } *Zinnia elegans Zinnia {The variety Shirley is particularly to be commended. B. ANNuALs To BE Sown For GrounD Cover. Often along the edges of borders in the garden, or in otherwise bare spots, a small ground cover of annuals to produce a carpet of flowers may be de- sired. This often happens at the edge of shrubbery which grows ANNUALS 241 on a bank where it is difficult to train the branches so that they will come to the edge of the sod, thus covering the bare soil. Ageratum houstonianum (dwarf varieties) Iberis umbellata (dwarf hybrids) Floss Flower Candytuft Alyssum maritimum Little Gem Myosotis alpestris Sweet Alyssum Forget-me-not Anagallis (in variety) Portulaca grandiflora Pimpernel Rose Moss Reseda odorata, dwarf Mignonette C. Annuats WuicH Are DirFIcuLT To TRANSPLANT SUCCESSFULLY. This group contains annuals which should be sown in the place where they are expected to remain. The only work which should be done to them after sowing is to thin them out in order to give the individual plants more space to develop. Centaurea cyanus Lathyrus odoratus Old-fashioned Cornflower Sweet Pea Delphinium ajacis Lavatera trimestris splendens Annual Larkspur Mallow Emilia flammea Lupinus hirsutus Flora’s Paint-brush Lupin Eschscholtzia californica Nigella damascena California Poppy Love-in-a-mist Gypsophila elegans be aks (in variety) Baby’s Breath oppy Gypsophila muralis Tropaeolum majus Pink Baby’s Breath Nasturtium D. Annua.ts WuicH SHouLD BE PLANTED IN SEVERAL SOWINGS TO INSURE A SUCCESSION OF BLoom. To provide a succession of bloom with annuals those included in the following group should be sown in two or three successive plantings. Very few annual seeds should be sown after the hot summer weather begins, unless great care is given to the watering. | Centaurea Cyanus Myosotis palustris Old-fashioned Cornflower Forget-me-not Coreopsis tinctoria Nigella damascena Tickseed Love-in-a-mist (sow every six weeks) eee elegans Papaver (in variety) aby’s Breath (sow every three weeks) Poppy (sow every four weeks) Iberis umbellata Phlox drummondti Candytuft (sow every three weeks) Drummond’s Phlox Reseda odorata Mignonette (sow every three weeks) 242 THE COMPLETE GARDEN E. Annuats To Be StartTeD INDooRs IN ORDER TO PRODUCE Bioom Berore Frost. For the best results and for early summer flowers, the annuals in this group should be started in hot frames or greenhouses and transplanted in the very early spring, as soon as the danger of frost is over, into their permanent garden locations. F. ANNUAL VINES. Ageratum houstontanum Floss Flower Antirrhinum majus Snapdragon Brachycome iberidtfolia Swan River Daisy Callistephus hortensis China Aster Cheiranthus cheirt Wallflower Cosmos bipinnatus Cosmos Heliotropium peruvianum Heliotrope Lobelia erinus (in variety) Lobelia Maitthiola incana Common Stock Nicotiana (in variety) Tobacco Plant Petunia hybrida Petunia Salpiglossis sinuata Painted Tongue Salvia splendens Scarlet Sage Schizanthus pinnatus Butterfly Flower Verbena hybrida Verbena Viola tricolor Pansy While the more permanent perennial types of woody vines are developing during the first two or three years after transplanting it is often desirable to fill the bare spaces on fences and walls with the annual vines that will produce a mass foliage effect. Any of the vines shown in this group are valuable for that purpose. a. Delicate foliage: Adlumia cirrhosa (biennial) Alleghany Vine Cardiospermum halicacabum Balloon Vine b. Heavy foliage: Calonyction aculeatum Moon Vine Dolichos lablab Hyacinth Bean Echinocystis lobata Wild Cucumber Humulus lupulus Hop Vine Humulus lupulus japonica Cut-leaved Hop Vine Cobaea scandens (sow indoors) Cup and Saucer Vine Tropaeolum canariense (sow indoors) Canary Bird Vine Ipomoea hederacea (Japanese varieties) Japanese Morning Glory Ipomoea purpurea Common Morning Glory Phaseolus multiflorus Scarlet Runner Bean Quamoclit pinnata Cypress Vine Quamoclit coccinea hederifolia Cardinal Climber ANNUALS 243 G. Pants For Carpet Beppinc. Carpet bedding as a part of design in landscape planting has a specific place and is used for a spe- cific purpose. ‘This type of planting lends itself to extremely formal areas throughout parks and around architectural treatments. It is not adapted in any way for use in connection with informal types of American landscapes either in park developments or in settings of homes. This is a field of work which gives the gardener an excellent opportunity to show his skill in the trimming of plants and the ar- rangement of plants to produce interesting pattern effects. There is no other group of plants from which specimens can be selected which will perform the same functions in the landscape picture as plants selected from this group. The perennials are mostly propagated from cuttings, and the annual plants are grown each year from seeds. They are usually planted very closely—from three to six inches apart—so as to secure an even colour effect and a complete blanket of foliage with well- defined lines of separation between the varieties. Few of these plants are sold under their proper scientific names, but the common names here given will identify them. The types of plants adapted for this purpose are usually selected because of well-defined characteristics such as: (a) Long flowering period and abundance of bloom. (b) Compact habit of growth. (c) Ability to thrive under crowded conditions. (d) Ability to respond to frequent and severe cutting back. (e) Interesting colour and texture of foliage. a. Low-growing plants from two to six inches tall: 1. Foliage plants: Alyssum maritimum variegatum Sempervivum arachnoideum (in variety) Variegated-leaved Sweet Alyssum Spiderweb Houseleek Echeveria atropurpurea Sempervivum calcareum Purple-leaved Echeveria Alpine Houseleek Echeveria fulgens Sempervivum tectorum (in variety) Smooth-stemmed Echeveria Houseleek Echeveria glauca Telanthera amoena Glaucous Echeveria Alternanthera Echeveria secunda Telanthera bettzickiana Red-margined Echeveria Narrow-leaved Alternanthera Oxalis corniculata Telanthera versicolor Creeping Oxalis Round-leaved Alternanthera Pelargonium hortorum Madame Salleroi Thymus serpyllum (in variety) Mme. Salleroi Geranium Mother of Thyme 244 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 2. Flowering plants: Ageratum “Imperial Dwarf Blue” Iberis umbellata (in variety) Dwarf Blue Floss Flower Candytuft Ageratum “Imperial Dwarf White” Lobelia erinuszalba Dwarf White Floss Flower White Compact Lobelia Alyssum maritimum Lilac Queen Lobelia erinus compacta Crystal Palace Lilac Sweet Alyssum Blue Compact Lobelia Alyssum maritimum Little Gem Lobelia erinus flore pleno White Sweet Alyssum Double Lobelia Brachycome iberidifolia Lobelia erinus tricolor Swan River Daisy . Spotted Lobelia Cuphea ignea Phlox drummond1 Cigar Plant Drummond’s Phlox Iberis amara coronaria Portulaca grandiflora (in variety) Rocket Candytuft Rose Moss Torenia flava Yellow Torenia b. Taller-growing plants from twelve to twenty inches tall: 1. Foliage plants: Acalypha wilkesiana (in variety) Tresine herbsti Copper-leaf Round-leaved Achyranthes Centaurea cineraria Tresine lindeni Dusty Miller Narrow-leaved Achyranthes Centaurea gymnocarpa Pelargonium hortorum (in variety) Plumose-leaved Dusty Miller Bronze-leaved Geranium Chrysanthemum parthenium aureum Phalaris arundinacea Golden Feather Ribbon Grass Chrysanthemum parthenium glaucum Piqueria trinerva Dusty Feverfew Stevia Coleus blumei verschaffeltt Santolina chamaecyparissus Branched Coleus Lavender Cotton Senecio cineraria Dusty Miller 2. Flowering plants: Ageratum houstonianum Heliotropium Queen of Violets Floss Flower Blue Garden Heliotrope Begonia rex (in variety) Lantana camara (in variety) Rex Begonia Lantana Pee ORES Triomphe de Pelargonium (in variety) Cherry Red Bedding Begonia Geranium Begonia semperflorens Vernon Petunia hybrida Bedding Begonia Petunia Chrysanthemum coronarium flore pleno Salvia splendens (in variety) Double Summer Chrysanthemum Scarlet Sage Cuphea llavea Tropaeoleum minus igar Plant Dwarf Nasturtium Verbena hybrida Garden Verbena ANNUALS 245 H. Annuats ror Desicn Beppinc. Oftentimes in the develop- ment of the flower garden the owner wishes for a massing of annual flowering plants to produce certain definite outlines. The amateur in selecting types for such effects will not be successful if he uses plants with habits of growth not adapted to the refinement of detail in the design being produced. Some annuals, like the dwarf snap- dragon, French marigold, annual phlox, and dwarf zinnia, will develop within small spaces to produce complicated designs. Others like late asters, tall snapdragons, tall zinnias, and African marigolds lend themselves successfully only to simple bedding effects with larger and less complicated units. The incorrect selection of annuals results in the following errors: (1) Loss of all trace of the original design because growth of plants used is out of scale with intent of the design (loose-growing, tall plants cannot maintain neat lines of a compact design); (2) Irregular and spotted flowering effect, because definite masses of plants do not bloom at the same time (e. g., early-flowering asters and late-flowering calendulas do not bloom at the same time). The best rule to adopt is to become thoroughly familiar with the flowering period and with the normal height to which the different types of annuals will grow. No other way is so good as to buy packets of seed and grow some of the different sorts for a season. The woody and herbaceous perennial plants are as a rule sold as named varieties which are thoroughly understood the world over; but no such uni- formity exists in regard to the seedsman’s names for annual plants. It is not uncommon for seedsmen to sell identical seeds under different trade names or to give the same name to entirely different strains of seed. Therefore seeds of annuals should be bought of a reliable seedsman, preferably one who grows the seed, and one should not utilize novelties or unknown strains of seed in bedding work. By sticking to the best seedsmen and their established strains of seed excellent results will follow. a. Low-growing sorts, growing twelve to twenty-four inches: Antirrhinum majus nanum (in variety) Callistephus chinensis Queen of the Half-dwarf Snapdragon Market Calendula officinalis (in variety) Early Half-dwarf China Aster Pot Marigoid Callistephus chinensis King type Centaurea cyanus Quilled China Aster Old-fashioned Cornflower 246 Clarkia pulchella Clustered-flowered Clarkia Dianthus barbatus Sweet William Dimorphotheca aurantiaca Orange Daisy Eschscholtzia californica California Poppy Gaillardia pulchella picta Blanket Flower Hunnemannia fumariaefolia Mexican Poppy Maitthiola incana Common Stock THE COMPLETE GARDEN Matthiola incana annua Ten-week Stock Petunia hybrida (in variety) Petunia Phlox drummondi (in variety) Drummond’s Phlox Salpiglossis sinuata (in variety) Painted Tongue Tagetes erecta African Marigold Tagetes patula French Marigold Verbena hybrida Verbena Zinnia elegans Zinnia b. Taller sorts, growing twenty-four to thirty-six inches: Antirrhinum majus (in wancty) Snapdragon Callistephus chinensis Cregos Gent Chrysanthemum-flowered China Aster Callistephus chinensis Late-branching Late-flowering China Aster Celosia argentea Plumed Celosia Clarkia elegans Broad-leaved Clarkia Delphinium ajacis Double Stock-flowering Annual Larkspur Heliotropium regale Garden Heliotrope Matthiola Mammoth Beauty of Nice Brompton Stocks Tagetes erecta Lemon Queen Tall Double African Marigold Tagetes erecta Orange Prince Tall Double African Marigold Zinnia elegans robusta Tall Zinnia Pirate XXXVIII. During the winter months when there is little else in the shrub border to attract attention, the vivid colours of the twigs of many of our shrubs present interesting spots of colour against the background of evergreens or snow. (A) red-twigged dogwood; (B) green-stemmed dogwood ; (C) red birch; (D) golden-twigged osier; (E) gray dogwood; (F) striped maple. (See page 169, group X XI) Pirate XXXIX. What is more beautiful in the landscape than the intensely brilliant colours of the autumn foliage of many of our trees and shrubs? More plants should be used for the value of their autumn foliage effect. (A) burning bush; (B) dark green golden bell; (C) maple-leaved viburnum; (D) sassafras; (E) maidenair tree; (F) sourwood. (See page 173, group X XIT) CHAPTER XXXIII HORTICULTURAL VARIETIES THE great variations among plants and flowers that to most people seem very much alike should become better known both for the enjoy- ment this study yields and for its educational and cultural value. The formation of a fine collection of one or two genera of plants like the peony, the iris, or the gladiolus, may become a hobby that will give for the study and time and money expended upon it much reward, additional to that obtained from enjoying the blooms of one’s own choice plants. Not only are ideals of excellence improved and the aesthetic sense cultivated, but there is genuine and lasting pleasure found in becoming acquainted with congenial persons through a wide range of territory, united by community of plant interest in a pursuit that leads to refinement. The interchange of ideas expressed in their publications yields a satisfaction greatly enhanced when the members of the society interested in “promoting”’ the flower meet in convention. It all becomes fascinating to a degree unintelligible to a person who has not yet given himself enthusiastically to specializing in a flower. For those who have the inclination or the financial means that justify them in seeking the satisfaction that comes from possessing rare varieties of a flower, there are available the publications of the societies such as have been named. Many treasures consisting of native plants still generally unknown, and of rare horticultural varieties, have long been denied to the purchasers of nursery stock in this country, either because they have not been properly presented to the public by the nurserymen, or be- cause the prospective purchaser has been too timid to try new varieties of old plants. Thus much of our American ornamental planting has a sameness which tends to discourage people who have wearied of seeing the old familiar plants but would respond quickly to an opportunity to secure and use new and better varieties. Peonies, lilacs, and irises are now becoming very well known, many amateurs have collections which are equal to the best, and people 247 248 THE COMPLETE GARDEN often travel long distances to see them in bloom. Garden roses, too, have their societies and have secured a place in the regard and the knowledge of the public which is not altogether justified by their position in the horticultural world. Aside from their flowers roses have nothing to recommend them for ornamental planting. Lilies, small flowering trees, rhododendrons, azaleas, and other broad-leaved ever- greens all possess better foliage and are more free from bugs, mildew, and other diseases. Magnificent effects may be secured by using the proper sorts of lilies, properly planted. Lilies seem, on the whole, to thrive better in soil which is full of the roots of other plants, and thus they are most happily used in conjunction with other herbaceous or small woody plants. ,They may be selected to provide bloom continuously from May till September and to suit any type of soil or condition of shade or open sun. During recent years numerous named sorts of thorn apples, crabapples, flowering cherries, and other small trees have been put on the market. These trees could, with splendid results, be sub- stituted for the round-leaved or umbrella catalpa and weeping mul- berry of the old-time nursery salesman. They are not only hardy, shapely, and beautiful in flower, but many of the single-flowering sorts produce handsome fruit and others have a good autumn colour. There are now at least fifty sorts of small evergreen shrubs and vines, aside from the rhododendrons, which are reasonably hardy throughout the northern states. It is coming to be generally recognized that, aside from the antipathy to calcareous soils which is shown by the rhododendrons and other ericaceae, the chief drawback to the use of many of our charming broad-leaved evergreens has not been so much the finding of a proper soil as the securing of a proper exposure and a condition of continuous moisture without stagnation. As the smoki- ness of our cities continues to increase the list of coniferous evergreens that will survive this condition grows smaller. Therefore for winter effects in cities we should turn to broad-leaved evergreens, many of which are not only able to survive smoke and dust, provided they are occasionally washed down and are kept always moist at the roots, but which contain among them some of the finest flowering plants which can be secured. Care should be taken when purchasing horticultural varieties HORTICULTURAL VARIETIES 249 of plants not to invest too heavily in “novelties” which have not with- stood any test or been passed upon by horticultural societies or other authorities. Many so-called novelties are merely old varieties, which have long since been superseded, masquerading under new names while others are likely to be untried and may be undesirable sorts. The amateur in his selection of horticultural varieties should adhere to standard varieties which have been generally recognized for a con- siderable period. ‘The use of horticultural varieties which are adver- tised as a good substitute for standard varieties, unless from some reliable nursery, should be avoided. SELECT LISTS OF HORTICULTURAL VARIETIES The question of publishing special lists of the more standard horti- cultural varieties may be open to some criticism. These lists are in- teresting for reference. The writer has therefore compiled the follow- ing lists which may be considered, at the time of publication of this manuscript, as some of the best varieties offered by the trade. Owing to importation and hybridization, new varieties are introduced each year and, after being thoroughly tested, should be added to these lists in order to keep them up to date. me LILACS. White: Blue to Bluish Lavender: Single: Single: Alba Major Bleuatre Marie Legraye Caerulea superba Virginalis Colmariensis Princess Alexandria Double: Frau Bertha Damann Double: President Carnot Doyon Keteleer Miss Ellen Willmott _ President Grevy Arar mek Sete Deep Purple Red to Reddish: Rabelais Single: Madame Abel Chatenay COneD Pink to Rosy: Charles X Single: ; Souvenir de Ludwig Spaeth Gloire de Moulins Double: Lilarosa Charles Joly Othello La Tour d’Auvergne Machrostachya Double: Emile Lemoine M. Maxime Cornu Belle de Nancy 25¢ B. PEOoNIEs. White: Le Cygne Elizabeth B. Browning Kelway’s Glorious Festiva Maxima Baroness Schroeder Mme. Emil Lemoine Francis Willard Albatre Alsace Lorraine James Kelway Enchantresse Marie Lemoine Light Pink: Therese Mme. Jules Dessert Tourangelle Lady Alexander Duff La France a Fee Le Naat ae ary Woodbury Shaylor Plea’s Jubilee Sarah Bernhardt La Fontaine Standard Bearer C. Smarty FLoweERING TREES. Crataegus arnoldiana Large-flowering Thorn Crataegus carrieri ; Carrier’s Red-flowering Thorn Crataegus cordata Washington Thorn Crataegus mollis Red-flowering Thorn Crataegus monogyna alba plena Double White-flowering Hawthorn Crataegus monogyna punicea Single Pink Hawthorn Crataegus monogyna rosea Pink-flowering Hawthorn Crataegus monogyna rubra plena Double Red-flowering Hawthorn Crataegus oxycantha pauli Paul’s Double Scarlet-flowering Thorn Crataegus puntcata Large-fruited Thorn Prunus cerasus James H. Veitch Rose-pink Flowering Cherry , THE COMPLETE GARDEN La Lorraine Mignon Elwood Pleas Marie Crousse Milton Hill Rosa Bonheur Georgiana Shaylor Loveliness pa Grandiflora Deep Pink: Mons. Jules Elie Walter Faxon Red: Phillipe Rivoire Karl Rosenfeld Longfellow Mary Brand Mikado Richard Carvel L’ Etincelante (single) Mme. Gaudichau Yellow: Solange Primevere Prunus persica alba plena Double White-flowering Peach Prunus persica rosea plena Double Rose-flowering Peach Prunus serrulata (many forms) Japanese Flowering Cherry Prunus sieboldi Japanese Pink-flowering Cherry Prunus subhirtella pendula 4 Japanese Weeping Rose-flowering Cherry Prunus triloba Flowering Plum Pyrus atrosanguinea Carmine-flowering Crab Pyrus baccata ; Siberian Flowering Crab Pyrus halliana parkmant Parkman’s Crab Pyrus ioensis bechtelt Bechtel’s Crab HORTICULTURAL VARIETIES 251 Pyrus malus niedzwetzkyana Deep Pink-flowering Crab Pyrus pulcherrima arnoldiana Arnold’s Large Rose-flowering Crab Pyrus pulcherrima scheideckert Scheidecker’s Semi-double Rose- flowering Crab Pyrus sargentt Sargent’s White-flowering Crab Pyrus sieboldi Siebold’s Blush-flowering Crab Pyrus spectabilis riversi aha Semi-double Chinese Flowering ra Pyrus zumi Low-growing Japanese Crab D. Roses. a. Best Climbing Roses: (The first three have proven hardy as far north as central Ontario.) Dorothy Perkins (Pink clusters) Baltimore Belle (Blush clusters) Prairie Queen (Bright pink clusters) Tausendschoen (Double pink) Dr. W. Van Fleet (Semi-double light pink) Silver Moon (Semi-double white) Excelsa (Red Dorothy Perkins) Hiawatha (Single red) American Pillar (Single pink) b. The Hardiest Garden Roses: (Tested in central Ontario and Maine. ) 1. Hybrid Perpetual, Crimson and Red: Alfred Colomb Baron de Bonstetten Eugene Furst General Jacqueminot John Hopper Marshall P. Wilder Ulrich Brunner Prince Camille de Rohan Gruss an Teplitz 2. Hybrid Perpetual, Pink: Paul Neyron Mrs. Sharman-Crawford Mrs. John Laing 3. Hybrid Perpetual, White: Margaret Dickson 4. Yellow Roses: Harison’s Yellow 5. Moss Roses: Blanche Moreau Anna de Diesbach Magna Charta Madame Gabrielle Luizet Madame Plantier Frau Karl Druschki Soleil d’Or Crested Moss Glory of Mosses c. The best hybrid tea roses: Duchess of Wellington (yellow to orange) Killarney (light pink) Kaiserin Augusta Victoria (white to lemon) Madame Ravary (orange yellow) Radiance (rose carmine) Lvon (salmon pink) Lady Ashtown (pale rose) Jonkheer J. L. Mock (carmine) Gruss an Teplitz (scarlet) Harry Kirk (sulphur yellow) fey (coppery rose) rs. A. R. Waddell (coppery salmon) Antoine Rivoire (flesh to cream) Madame Jules Bouche (white to blush) 252 a. Rhododendrons and azaleas: Hybrids. Album elegans (light blush) Album grandiflora (light blush) Alexander Dancer (light rose) Atrosanguineum (blood red early) Caractacus (rich purplish crimson) Charles Bagley (cherry red, late) Charles Dickens (bright scarlet, early) C. S. Sargent (rich crimson) Lady Armstrong (pale rose—best pin Mrs. C. S. Sargent (bright pink—simi- lar to Everestianum) Mrs. Milner (rich crimson) Roseum elegans (deep rosy purple) Boule de Neige (best dwarf white) Caerulescens (pale lilac blue) Everestianum (rosy lilac—the best) F. L. Ames (pale pink) Guido (rich crimson) H. W. Sargent (crimson, late) ai Bateman (rich scarlet) ettledrum (deep red, late) Lady Grey-Edgerton (light mauve, very fine) Old Port (rich crimson) scene a grandiflorum (best purple, ate) Species. Rhododendron maximum (white to pink —June to July—tall) Rhododendron catawbiense (lilac to purple) Rhododendron catawbiense album (white) Rhododendron carolinianum (rose— June) Best dwarf THE COMPLETE GARDEN E. Broap-LEAVED EVERGREENS. Rhododendron arbutifolium (rich pink— July) Rhododendron ferrugineum (carmine— June to August) Rhododendron hirsutum (Pink—June to August) (Does not dislike lime) Rhododendron myrtifolium (Deep rosy pink—July) Rhododendron smirnovt (Rosy red— ay) Rhododendron azaleoides (Fragrant pink —DMay and June) Rhododendron campanulatum (Lilac— June) Azaleas (Hardy except in windswept locations) Rhododendron obtusum amoenum (Purple—May) (Azalea amoena) Rhododendron canadense (Rhodora canadensis) Rhododendron vaseyi (Azalea vaseyi) Rhododendron nudtflorum (Azalea lutea) Rhododendron (Azalea mollis) Rhododendron canescens (Azalea ca- nescens) Rhododendron calendulaceum (Azalea calendula) Rhododendron arborescens (Azalea ar- borescens) Rhododendron viscosum (Azalea viscosa) Rhododendron kaempfert (Rhododen- dron indicum kaempferi) Rhododendron morteri (Azalea ganda- vensis) Rhododendron ledifolium (Azalea ledi- folia) japonicum b. Other broad-leaved evergreens which should be tried: Andromeda poltfolia Wild Rosemary Arctostaphylos uva-urst Bearberry Aspidium acrostichoides Christmas Fern Aubrietia deltoidea Purple Rock Cress Berberis sargentiana Evergreen Barberry Chamaedaphne calyculata Leather-leaf Chimaphila maculata Pipsissewa Chimaphila umbellata Pipsissewa HORTICULTURAL VARIETIES 253 Chiogenes hispidula Evergreen Snowberry Cotoneaster adpressa (semi-evergreen) Creeping Cotoneaster Cotoneaster horizontalis (semi-evergreen) Prostrate Cotoneaster Cotoneaster microphylla Small-leaved Cotoneaster Daphne blagayana White Garland Flower Daphne cneorum Garland Flower Empetrum atropurpureum Red-fruited Crowberry Embpetrum nigrum Black-fruited Crowberry Empetrum eamest Pink-fruited Crowberry Epigaea repens Trailing Arbutus Eszonymus radicans (in variety) Climbing Evonymus Galax aphylla (north exposure only) alax Gaultheria procumbens Wintergreen Helianthemum chamaectstus Rock Rose Helleborus niger Christmas Rose Hippophae rhamnoides Sea Buckthorn Hypericum aureum Large-flowered St. John’s Wort Iberis sempervirens Evergreen Candytuft Kalmia angustifolia Sheep Laurel Kalmia carolina Carolina Laurel Kalmia latifolia (in variety) Mountain Laurel Kalmia polifolia Swam Laurel Ledum groenlandicum Labrador Tea Ledum palustre Narrow-leaved Labrador Tea Leiophyllum buxifolium Sand Myrtle Leucothoé catesbaei Catesby’s Andromeda Mahonia aquifolium (scorches in sun) Oregon Grape Mahonia repens Creeping Mahonia Mahonta pinnata wagneri Pinnate-leaved Mahonia Pachysandra terminalis Japanese Spurge Pieris floribunda Mountain Fetterbush Polygala chamaebuxus Box-leaved Milkwort Potentilla tridentata Evergreen Cinquefoil Pyracantha coccinea Evergreen Thorn Pyracantha coccinea pauciflora Low-growing Fiery Thorn Pyxidanthera barbulata Flowering Moss Shortia galacifolia Shortia Thymus serpyllum lanuginosus Downy Thyme Vaccinium (in variety) Blueberry Viburnum rhytidophyllum Evergreen Viburnum Vinca minor Periwinkle Yucca filamentosa Adam’s Needle Zenobia pulverulenta F. ; Livres. a. List of lilies: The following table contains the best sorts for the average grower and indicates the culture, season of bloom, colour of flower, and usual 254 THE COMPLETE GARDEN height. There are four clearly defined types of lilies as indicated in the table by the letters A, B, C, and D. First the funnel form like the Easter lily (A); then the pendant, spreading, or bell form (B). The same flower erect is the cup-like type (C), which flowers earliest of all; and the Turk’s cap group with petals completely reversed (D). (0) All the lilies marked thus should thrive in any ordinary fertile garden soil. If the available soil is naturally compact or adhesive it can be lightened and made more porous by digging some coarse sand or leaf mold into it. If the soil is light and sandy, procure and incor- porate with it some clay loam; but in a broad sense all these lilies can be depended upon to live and increase under average garden conditions. (+) These lilies require a good soil and if the soil is heavy it should be lightened by the addition of some leaf mold or peat; these lilies do not quite so well withstand heat and drought either. Partial shade is beneficial, especially at their roots, which can be provided by interplanting them among other plants that will shade, yet not too densely cover the ground. (=) This group embraces all native species and they are shade and moisture loving. Although they lift up their tall flower spikes to the bright sun, they like a cool root run at all times. In a cool north corner, or by lake or stream or in any moist hollow, about or near the garden, these lilies are a host in themselves wherewith to make a sum- mer picture. (*) Lilies marked in this manner are stem-rooting. Therefore they can be transplanted in the spring. TABLE OF LILIES TRADE OR cee ie ee ee SEASON OF TYPE OF COLOUR OF AVERAGE ae cae BLOOM FLOWER FLOWER HEIGHT * ° | elegans aluta- | May C Apricot 9 inches ceum * ° | bulbiferum June C Crimson 1 foot * ° | elegans Alice Wilson June C Lemon yellow 13 ft. * ° | elegans aurora | June C Crane suffused with re * ° | elegans incom- parabile June Q Rich crimson red spotted with black | 13 ft. * ° | elegans van- houttet June | & Crimson I ft. i Side Bes geal he int (See page 187, group XXV-B) XL. In solving the difficult planting problems on exposed lake-fronts and river-fronts there is no plant, f adaptable types, to excel the beach-plum. PLATE imited list o r (961 o3ed 9990) ‘sjusuasmMbal JOO1 94} 9IWI SUOIJIPUOD |[IOs a1aYA svaie puL[pooM ut , Addey,, st ‘suolq¥d0] pasodxa ul 3daoxa ‘uoIpuapopoyl ayy “way? saovjd ainjeu se sjurjd jo Apmis yonw saimnbal svaie papoom ul ssurueyd y3yMoisIapuN ajqvitsap surdopaaap jo tuajqoid ayy, “[ TX ALVIg KEY o.°0 HORTICULTURAL VARIETIES TABLE OF LILIES (Continued) TRADE OR NURSERY CATA~- LOGUE NAME tenutfolium brownt candidum croceum maculatum (hansont) martagon elegans (um- bellatum da- huricum) canadense chalcedonicum elegans cenus- tum macran- thum testaceum (ex- celsum) grayt humboldti longiflorum wil- SON martagon album martagon dal- maticum Szovitzianum pardalinum suverbum auratum platy- phyllum auratum auratum virgi- nale auratum rubro- vittatum SEASON OF BLOOM tee une, July June, July June, July June, July June, July June, July July July July July July July July July July July July, August July, August August August August August TYPE OF FLOWER oOo FO ap Pv iS) oe 0 0 OU Up UU C=O COLOUR OF FLOWER Bright scarlet Pure white inside, reddish brown out Purest white Deep orange Rich yellow spotted with black Purple Variable pale yellow through orange to deepest crimson Variable in shades of yellow and red Bright scarlet Orange Nankeen yellow, unique in colour ef- fect Red, purple spots Yellow, purple, white White Pure white Dark blackish purple Pale to deep yellow spotted with black Varies from orange to bright red Orange red to crim- son, black spotted White, red spotted, and yellow banded White, crimson spotted, yellow banded down centre of each petal White, yellow spotted yellow banded White, crimson band down each petal 255 AVERAGE HEIGHT 3 to 4 ft. 4 fe. 4 fe. 256 THE COMPLETE GARDEN TABLE OF LILIES (Continued) TRADE OR Speciosum mel- pomene tigrinum __for- b. Easy culture in garden soil: Lilium auratum Gold-banded Lily Lilium candidum Madonna Lily Lilium croceum Alpine Lily Lilium philadelphicum Wild Red Lily Lilium regale Regal Lily c. Moist and boggy locations: Lilium canadense Wild Yellow Lily Lilium parryi Parry’s Lily Lilium parvum Sierra Nevada Lily SEASON OF NURSERY CATA- LOGUE NAME pen auratum witter | August batemanniae (elegans ful- gens) August tigrinum August tigrinum splen- dens August elegans wallacet henryi August, Sept. speciosum al- bum August, Sept. Speciosum ru- brum August, Sept. August, Sept. tunet August, Sept. | TYPE OF COLOUR OF AVERAGE FLOWER FLOWER HEIGHT White, unspotted, yel- low banded 4 ft. Rich apricot 4 ft. Red, heavily spotted | 3,to 4 ft. Apricot, yellow with dark spots 3 to 4 ft. Deep orange yellow, darker protuber- ances 4 to 8 ft. Pure white 3 ft. Rose coloured aft, Dark crimson purple | 3 ft. B B B B B Red, heavily spotted | 4 ft. Lilium tenutfolium Coral Lily Lilium tigrinum Tiger Lily Lilium speciosum (especially variety rubrum) Showy Lily Lilium wallacet Wallace’s Thunbergian Lily Lilium roezlt Santa Cruz Lily Lilium pardalinum Leopard Lily Lilium superbum American Turk’s Cap Lily d. HORTICULTURAL VARIETIES 257 Calcareous soil: Lilium candidum Madonna Lily Lilium hansont Lilium monadelphum Caucasian Lily Lilium martagon Golden Turk’s Cap Lily European Turk’s Cap Lily Lilium testaceum Nankeen Lily Open sunny positions: Lilium candidum Lilium martagon Madonna Lily European Turk’s Cap Lily Lilium croceum Lilium monadelphum Alpine Lily Caucasian Lily Lilium elegans Lilium tigrinum Thunbergian Lily Tiger Lily Lilium philadelphicum (best of all) Wild Red Lily Undergrowth under shrubs and small trees: Lilium speciosum (all sorts) Showy Lily Sandy or dry soils: Lilium philadelphicum Wild Red Lily Lilium bolanderi Boland’s Lily Lilium carolinianum Southern Swamp Lily Clay soul: Lilium candidum Lilium hansont Madonna Lily Golden Turk’s Cap Lily Lilium croceum Lilium monodelphum Alpine Lily Caucasian Lily Lilium tigrinum Tiger Lily Lilium philadelphicum Wild Red Lily Lilium elegans Thunbergian Lily Shady locations: Lilium auratum Gold-banded Lily Lilium hansont Golden Turk’s Cap Lily Lilium henryi Yellow Showy Lily Lilium japonicum Japanese Lily Lilium parryi Parry’s Lily Lilium washingtonianum Washington Lily CHAPTER XXXIV VINES VINES constitute a small but important group of plants possessing certain characteristics which are very valuable for use in landscape design. The annual vines develop to maturity and must be started again each season from seed. Perennial vines, once firmly established, continue to increase indefinitely, at least during a period of years. Many vines, such as the wisteria and ivies, are seen on buildings hun- dreds of years old and, in general, the average long-lived vine will out- live its period of usefulness on any building, especially on wooden structures, which are subject to decay and to periodical repairs. To many people a “vine is a vine” without any differentiation as to its usefulness. As a matter of fact, vines may be divided into certain definite groups which are valuable for different purposes. The knot- weed, honeysuckle, and climbing roses represent a group which are very desirable for their flowering effect. It often happens that vines are desired, not so much for their screen effects as for the effect of pro- ducing flowers within a limited space, and thus adding spots of beauty to otherwise unattractive and monotonous surfaces. It is quite necessary in selecting vines for use on brick work, stone and masonry surfaces, that the method of growth of such vines should be fully understood. Those vines which grow upon fences and lattice work are either scramblers or twiners or they grow by means of ten- drils, as do the Virginia creeper and the grape. None of these vines are adapted for use on brick work and masonry surfaces. There is a group of vines which grow and cling to these surfaces by means of little growths, at intervals along their stems, the tips of which, as soon as they come in contact with any surface, produce a sticky fluid that immediately ‘‘cements” the vine to the wall. In the case of the Bos- ton ivy the little tendril, at the tip of which is the adhesive substance, has a tendency to contract in the manner of a twisted cord and thus pull the stem closer to the wall. This is a peculiar provision of nature. This list of vines is comparatively small and is represented generally 258 VINES 259 by the Boston ivy, English ivy, and the climbing evonymus or Japa- nese evergreen ivy. The ivies in general are much more rapid growers than the evonymus. There is one group of vines which possesses a very vigorous climbing habit and develops a heavy foliage, such as the Dutchman’s pipe, Virginia creeper, kudzu vine, and the knotweed. Of this list of vines the American bitter-sweet and the Dutchman’s pipe possess an inter- esting heavy foliage. Vines are valuable not only for their flowering effect but they are valuable for the effect of their fruit also. Some vines, such as the matrimony vine, with its brilliant orange fruit, and the American bitter-sweet, with its red and orange fruit, together with the Virginia creeper, with its interesting blue fruit, are valuable in a landscape set- ting far into the winter months. Oftentimes local conditions require the selection of a permanent vine with afast growing habit. It may not be advisable to use annuals, but rather to use a more permanent type and accordingly the designer resorts to such plants as the Dutchman’s pipe, the knotweed, and the kudzu vine, which under normal conditions will make a growth ranging from ten to forty feet in a single season. The knotweed is not entirely hardy in severe exposures and the young plants should not be planted in the open ground before the latter part of May. In general, vines fill a gap in the field of landscape planting which cannot be filled with shrubs. Where conditions develop in which only a limited space is available for foliage, flower and fruiting effects, vines must be accepted as the logical solution of the planting problem. A quite common mistake in the use of vines is to select types which are too fast growing or which are not adapted to the special purpose for which they are used. A common mistake also is that of covering interesting pieces of brick work and stone masonry with vines which completely obscure the beauty of the architectural detail. Vines should be used on buildings to emphasize the architectural detail; otherwise there is little use in spending sums of money to produce added beauty in architecture if such detail is immediately to be covered with vines. We often see an elevation of a house on which appears a chimney with the entire surface of the house and chimney covered with vines. In such instances the vines, for the purpose of architectural composition, should be planted only on the chimney or on the surfaces at either side of the chimney and not on the chimney. 260 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Many persons object to the use of certain types of vines such as the Virginia creeper and the ivies, which form a beautiful roosting place for sparrows immediately opposite sleeping-room windows, and for such locations a type of vine similar to the evonymus should be used, which does not provide a shelter for these pests. LIST OF VINES The vines included in the groups of this list are respectively valuable for their ability to produce flowers, for their use on brick and stone masonry, for foliage effect, for fruiting characteristics, and for their fast growing characteristics. Certain vines may be included in one or more groups because of the value of certain characteristics in each group. It should be remembered that the distinction between vines of different types for different purposes is equally as marked as the differ- ence in shrubs and perennials. A. Flowering: Actinidia arguta Lonicera (in variety) Dark-leaved Silver Vine Honeysuckle Aristolochia sipho Polygonum baldschuanicum Dutchman’s Pipe Knotweed Bignontia radicans Quamoclit pinnata Trumpet Vine Cypress Vine Clematis (in variety) Rosa (in variety) Clematis Climbing Rose Lathryus latifolius Wisteria (in variety) Hardy Sweet Pea Wisteria B. Use on Brick, Stone, and Masonry: Ampelopsis engelmanni Bignonia radicans Engelmann’s Ampelopsis Ampelopsis tricuspidata lowt Lowe’s Boston Ivy Ampelopsis tricuspidata veitcht Boston Ivy Trumpet Vine Evonymus radicans Climbing Evonymus Hedera helix English Ivy Schizophragma hydrangeoides Climbing Hydrangea C. Climbing Habit and Heavy Foliage: Actinidia (in variety) Silver Vine Ampelopsis quinquefolia Virginia Creeper Aristolochia sipho Dutchman’s Pipe Bignontia radicans Trumpet Vine S VINES Celastrus scandens American Bitter-sweet Clematis paniculata. Japanese Clematis Clematis virginiana Wild Clematis Evonymus radicans Climbing Evonymus Fruiting: Actinidia (in variety) Silver Vine Akebia quinata Five-leaved Akebia Ampelopsis aconitifolia Cut-leaved Vitis Ampelopsis heterophylla Asiatic Creeper Ampelopsis quinquefolta Virginia Creeper Celastrus orbiculatus Japanese Bitter-sweet Fast Growing: Actinidia (in variety) Silver Vine Ampelopsis aconitifolia Cut-leaved Vitis Ambpelopsis heterophylla Asiatic Creeper Aristolochia sipho Dutchman’s Pipe Bignontia radicans Trumpet Vine Lonicera (in variety) Honeysuckle Periploca graeca Silk Vine Pueraria thunbergiana Kudzu Vine Wisteria (in variety) Wisteria Celastrus scandens American Bitter-sweet Clematis paniculata Japanese Clematis Clematis virginiana Wild Clematis Lycium halimifolium Matrimony Vine Rosa (in variety) Climbing Rose Solanum dulcamara Woody Nightshade Clematis paniculata Japanese Clematis Humulus japonicus Japanese Hop Lonicera japonica halliana Japanese Honeysuckle Periploca graeca Silk Vine Pueraria thunbergiana Kudzu Vine Polygonum baldschuanicum Knotweed 261 CHAPTER XXXV WINDOW BOXES AND HANGING BASKETS STRICTLY speaking, window boxes do not come under the category of planting or designing the grounds, but in a vital way they serve to tie the house to the lawn and gardens and thus help to produce the immediate effect of a harmonious whole. Particularly are they valuable in imparting a cozy and “‘lived-in” atmosphere to a new house. Many otherwise uninteresting houses have been made very attractive through the use of window boxes. A severe type of archi- tecture demands a window-box treatment developed with the heavier kinds of foliage plants such as English ivy, geraniums, and fuchsias, while a lighter architectural design requires vincas, snapdragons, and ageratums. The selection of plants for successful window boxes must be the result of some study of the effect to be produced and the kinds of materials necessary to produce the effect. Not all of our plants can be used in window-box planting. Plants for this purpose must retain their foliage throughout the summer, the period of bloom must continue for a number of weeks, and the normal growth of the plant should not be impaired by crowding the root development within a small area. Two cardinal principles apply to the design and use of window boxes. Never put window boxes on a building unless the architectural composition requires them, and do not select for them plants which are out of scale with the architectural detail. When planning the window boxes the effect of the colour scheme should be considered from the inside of the various rooms in the house as well as the effect upon the aspect of the house itself. There are numerous possibilities outside of the conventional boxes planted with periwinkle, geraniums, and daisies. Almost any of the showy dwarf-growing annuals may be used and the opportunity for various colour schemes with them 1s practically endless. If bright colour is needed the dwarf, giant-flowering snapdragon, which comes in many brilliant shades and grows about twelve inches 262 WINDOW BOXES AND HANGING BASKETS 263 high, is good. The dwarf zinnia is perhaps even more brilliant in its various colours. It is also stiffer in its habit of growth and conse- quently better for a windy location. California poppies can be had in all shades of yellow and orange and could be used with nicotiana for a white and yellow box. Another good combination is blue lobelia, pink verbena, and asparagus fern. Care should be taken to select the flowers which will bloom simul- taneously. Foliage plants should be used to provide an abundance of green, and enough vines and flowers of a drooping habit should be in- troduced to counteract the stiffness of the box. When planting, pack the roots in firmly on account of the wind. For an unusually windy position it is best to use a deeper box. In choosing the plants, exposure is the first important consideration. (See the following lists.) For sunny positions the more vigorous growing and flowering plants are apt to do best, while in shade ferns and foliage plants, generally speaking, are more successful. In a dusty location smoother-leaved plants such as myrtle and ivy geraniums should be used. Inside window boxes should get sunshine and plenty of fresh air but must never be placed in a draft. The temperature for the average house plant is between 55° at night to 70° inthe daytime. The plants should be watered regularly and the foliage sprayed two or three times a week, with the exception of those plants with fuzzy foliage, such as gloxinia, where moisture upon the leaves would cause decay. Hang- ing baskets should be lined with moss in order to retain their moisture. The soil used in all window boxes must be rich, as the roots are so crowded and ample plant food must be available. A good soil mix- ture for this purpose is two parts garden loam, one part rotted leaf mold, and one part sand, mixed with one part well-rotted manure. This mixture can be procured from any florist. As the box becomes filled with roots it is necessary to furnish food to the plants by working into the soil a small amount of bone meal or well-rotted manure every week or ten days. The box may be constructed of various materials: concrete, terra cotta, or wood. The inside measurements for a window box should be six inches to eight inches deep and ten inches to twelve inches wide. The outside measurements should be fourteen inches wide and one inch shorter than the window or space it is to occupy. A very long box can be made in sections averaging three feet to four feet in length, 264 THE COMPLETE GARDEN to facilitate the handling of it. Three-quarter inch holes should be bored in the bottom of the box every twelve inches, to provide drainage. A zinc or galvanized iron lining in a wooden box is desirable but not absolutely necessary. However, if a lining is not used it is best to have the inside of the box charred to prevent rotting of the wood. This is done by washing the inside, both bottom and sides, with kero- sene and then lighting the oil and allowing it to burn until a thin charred coating is formed. The box is turned upside down to smother the flames. The most permanent types of window boxes are lined with copper. All boxes, whether or not they are lined, must be provided with holes for drainage. The absence of these holes may cause the soil to become sour from overwatering, a condition which is avoided when drainage is provided. A. Winvow Boxes. The following group of plants are those adapted for window. boxes in varying exposures of sunlight. These plants should not be placed in window boxes which cannot be thor- oughly drained unless great care is exercised in watering; otherwise the soil will become sour and the plants will be “‘drowned out.” a. South or west exposure: Ageratum houstonianum (dwarf) Hedera helix Floss Flower English Ivy Antirrhinum (intermediate or dwarf) Heliotropium peruvianum Snapdragon Heliotrope Codiaeum (in variety) Lobelia Croton Annual Lobelia Dracaena indivisa Maurandia (in variety) Dracena Maurandy Vine Geranium S. H. Nutt Nepeta glechoma Cardinal Geranium Ground Ivy Geranium Bruant Pelargonium peltatum Scarlet Geranium Ivy-leaved Geranium Geranium Beaute Poitevine Phlox drummondi Salmon Double Geranium Drummond’s Phlox Swainsona galegifolia Swainsonia b. East exposure: Antirrhinum (dwarf or intermediate) Dracaena indivisa Snapdragon Dracena Begonia (tuberous-tooted) Ferns Tuberous Begonia Many varieties WINDOW BOXES AND HANGING BASKETS 265 Heliotropium perunianum Petunia hybrida Heliotrope Petunia Linaria cymbalaria Solanum jasminoides Kenilworth Ivy Jerusalem Cherry Vine Pelargonium peltatum Chas. Turner Tropacolum majus Ivy-leaved Geranium Nasturtium Vinca major (variegated) Trailing Vinca c. North exposure: Fuchsia (in variety) Trailing Fuchsia Ipomoea (in variety) Morning Glory Nepeta glechoma Ageratum houstonianum (dwarf) Floss Flower Asparagus sprengert Asparagus Fern Caladium (small leaf varieties) Elephant’s Ear Ground Ivy Fern Petunia hybrida Boston Fern Petunia Vinca major (variegated) Trailing Vinca B. Hancinc Baskets. The group of plants adapted for use in hanging baskets is much larger than might at first be anticipated. The great danger in the cultivation of plants in hanging baskets is the danger of drying out. a. Vine-like habit: Asparagus sprengert Asparagus Fern Cobaea scandens Cup and Saucer Vine Fuchsia procumbens Trailing Fuchsia Hedera helix English Ivy Ipomoea (in variety) Morning Glory Lantana (in variety) Lantana Linaria cymbalaria Kenilworth Ivy Lobelia speciosa Lobelia Lysimachia nummularia Moneywort Maurandia (in variety) Maurandy Vine Nepeta glechoma Ground Ivy Oxalis floribunda Oxalis Passiflora caerulea Passion Flower Petunia hybrida Petunia Saxifraga sarmentosa Strawberry Geranium Senecio scandens Summer Ivy Solanum jasminoides Jerusalem Cherry Vine Thunbergia alata Thunbergia Tropaeolum majus Nasturtium Verbena hybrida Verbena Vinca major (variegated) Trailing Vinca 266 b. C. Begonia (tuberous varieties) Tuberous Begonia Cuphea llavea igar Plant Fuchsia (in variety) Ladies’ Eardrop Geranium (in variety) Geranium Impatiens sultana ‘Touch-me-not Upright habit and good foliage: Aspidistra lurida Tall Evergreen Aspidistra Caladium Elephant’s Ear Cineraria maritima Dusty Miller Coleus blumei verschaffeltt Coleus: THE COMPLETE GARDEN Upright habit and good flowers: Lantana (in variety) Lantana Nierembergia gracilis White Cup Petunia hybrida Petunia Salvia splendens Scarlet Sage Stevia serrata nana Dwarf Stevia Cyperus alterntfolius Umbrella Plant Dracaena indivisa Dracena Fern (in variety) Tresine lindent Narrow-leaved Achyranthes Palms (in variety) CHAPTER XXXVI BULBS Tuts is a type of planting which can provide as many interesting flower effects as any annual, perennial, or shrub planting. It is the type of planting that provides flowers at a period of the year from late March until the latter part of May, when the garden and lawn are otherwise bare of flowers. The information concerning this group of plantings covering the possible types to be used, the effects to be ob- taine1, and the care of the mature plants, has not been so freely dis- tributed to the owners of our homes as it should have been. After the monotonous, uninteresting landscape presented by the lawn and garden areas in the vicinity of residences during the long winter months, these touches of flower effects are of double value as an introduction to the possibilities of the flowering shrubs and garden plants. So.important is this subject that an entire chapter of this book, Chapter VI, has been devoted to the culture of bulbs. It is the general impression that “bulbs are bulbs” for practically one use. It is not realized that such a wide variation exists in the purposes for which bulbs may be used and in the different types of bulbs which are used. As a matter of fact, with the proper planting of bulbs, a continuous succession of flowers can be obtained during a normal season from the middle part of March, beginning with the crocuses and the early narcissi, extending through the early part of May, with the early tulips and the late narcissi, and ending with the Darwin tulips during the last part of May to be immediately followed by such garden flowers as the early iris, the columbine, the alyssum, and the lilac. There are bulbs which are logically adapted to refined lawn and garden areas, bulbs which are adapted for naturalizing in woodlands and wild gardens, interesting combinations of bulbs, and types of bulbs valuable for forcing during the late winter months. The life of the average bulb under normal conditions is approximately three years after which time the bulbs must be replaced with new material; the 267 268 THE COMPLETE GARDEN only exception being that such bulbs as those of the crocus and three varieties of narcissi, Von Sion, Victoria, and the poet’s, will continue to multiply under ideal conditions for a number of years, provided the tops are permitted to remain a sufficient time after flowering in order to ripen the bulb. In the selection of bulbs for garden plantings we have practically the entire field from which to draw for material adapted to the refined lawn and garden planting. The degree of refinement depends largely upon our knowledge of the proper combinations of bulbs which will give interesting flower effects, flowers that appear at the same and at suc- cessive dates, and flowers of the same height. In making plantings of bulbs for lawn and garden effects careful attention should be given to the other groups showing narcissi for different locations, and the interesting tulip combinations. One of the most interesting groups of bulbs is the group valuable for naturalization in woodland and wild garden areas. These bulbs must be of the kind that will continue to multiply without further care than is ordinarily given to such areas on the average estate. All of the bulbs in this list should, after being properly planted, grow in succeeding years into clumps through the increase of the small bulblets, and the mature plants should be almost as vigorous as during the first year or two after the bulbs were planted. In other words, they should not show a tendency to run out. Occasionally, unless conditions are ideal, such plants as the trillium and some of the lilies will continue to grow but will not multiply. This is a freak of plant life which those who have given considerable thought to experimenting in the natural- ization of plants cannot fully explain. Many of the bulbs in this group such as the yellow lily leek, lily-of-the-valley, adder’s tongue, and trillium, desire a great amount of shade. The other bulbs such as lilies, narcissi, squills, and tulips require more sunlight. It is well to know the adaptations of different varieties of the nar- cissus. The writer has accordingly referred to this in passing, and we should bear closely in mind the fact that the poet’s narcissus, with its varieties, is adapted to the heavy lower ground, while the large trumpet types are adapted to a rich, well-drained loam. ‘The proper selection of combinations of bulbs for flowering effects, either simultaneous flow- ering or a succession of bloom, is one of the interesting studies in bulb plantings. So many extremely interesting effects can be obtained with a proper selection and planting, and so many uninteresting BULBS 269 flowering effects can be avoided, that a few standard types of bulb combinations have been shown under this discussion. Bulbs are divided into the early-flowering types, most of which are single, and the late-flowering types among which are the Darwin tulips, most of which grow twice as tall as the early flowering. There are so many varieties of tulips and such a confusion of nomenclature that to lay down definite rules and to frame ironclad lists of bulbs would be futile. It is sufficient to suggest that bulbs for excellent plantings should be selected and grouped by an expert, or that sources of expert infor- mation should be consulted in order to insure the proper effects. So often, for example, yellow and white or orange and yellow tulips are planted for a combination of flower effect, when in reality one of the bulbs is of the early-flowering type and the other variety is of the late- flowering type, neither of which will be in bloom during the blooming period of the other. To avoid mistakes of this kind, and for the use of the amateur who has no ready access to the sources of information, nor the time to devote the necessary study to this question, a number of bulb combinations have been given which will serve to meet the average requirements. As a matter of fact, bulbs planted for their individual flowers fall far short of providing the most interesting effect. They should be planted for their mass effect and as an interesting com- bination of colour. Bulbs may be planted either for a formal or for an informal and more natural effect. The first planting requires the stiff symmetrical lines of refined lawn and garden areas; the second effect requires the more informal, flowing lines, either of the refined lawn areas or of the in- formal garden areas. It is quite a matter of taste which of these effects should be desired. Many persons desire the conventional, un- interesting ribbon boundary bordering the edges of shrubbery, while others desire the more natural, scattered mass effect which gives here and there a spot of colour and a certain relief to the bare effect of the shrubbery plantings prior to the time of breaking their buds, and also to the ground underneath. It is important to know the time of flowering for various types of bulbs in order that the late-flowering types, such as the Darwin tulips, may not be scattered through a shrub planting of the bridal wreath spirea, or the early honeysuckle, where the full leaf effect will obscure the flower effect of the bulbs. Not every variety of bulb is suitable for forcing purposes. A few varieties of bulbs are extremely suitable, while a few of the varieties 270 THE COMPLETE GARDEN of the crocus and of the Spanish iris can be forced successfully only under the most favourable conditions of heat and light. Some of the early tulips are preéminently good for forcing while some varieties are not adapted to this method of growing them. Many of the cottage tulips and nearly all the Darwins can be used successfully. All hyacinths, some more than others, and many narcissi are satisfactory. But before trying varieties not named in the list one should consult a reliable trade catalogue. For early forcing particular care should be used to select large, plump bulbs. LIST OF BULBS A. ReFineD Lawn AND GARDEN AREAS. This group contains only the standard types and varieties of bulbs from which to select material for the average planting. There are hundreds of varieties of bulbs which may be used with more or less success; but this list is intended to be merely a safe guide to the beginner. Chionodoxa luciliae Narcissus barri Glory-of-the-Snow Short Cup or Trumpet Daffodil Crocus (fall blooming) Narcissus incomparabilis Crocus Medium Trumpet Daffodil Crocus (spring blooming) Narcissus leedsi Crocus White Daffodil Galanthus elwest Narcissus poeticus Giant Snowdrop Poet’s Narcissus Hyacinthus (in variety) Narcissus Trumpet major Hyacinth Long Trumpet Daffodil Muscari botryoides Scilla sibirica Grape Hyacinth Siberian Squill Narcissus (double) Tulipa (in variety) Narcissus Tulip B. Natura.izinc IN WooDLaAND AND WiLp Garpens. Bulbs valuable for naturalization in woodland and wild garden areas must be of the kind which will continue to increase without further care than is ordinarily given to such an area. All of the material in this group, except the gold-banded lily, may be expected, after being prop- erly planted, to continue with the succeeding years to become thicker in growth and still remain nearly as vigorous as when first planted. Allium moly Yellow Lily Leek Camassia esculenta Wild Hyacinth Convallaria majalts Lily-of-the-valley Eranthis hyemalis Winter Aconite (G-XIXX dnois voz a8ed 99g) ‘suae13190A9 Jo sBul -yueyd yim UoReUIquos ul AT[eIDedsa ‘aSerpoy JO 91n}Xa} BuIjsaI19}UI 10 INojOd Jo ssauyots ut aBinds asauedef ayr sassedins YIIYM J9AOD pUNOIS OU SI 319} [IOs WO] 3491] 10 Apues uo sainsodxa Auuns uado WI) ABS cara (O-AX dnor3 3as osye “y-K TX KX dno13 ‘goz aBed 99§) “SseJd YDoI1 puv sdorsauU0}s jo sanatiea ‘syurd ssow ‘xojyd punois ynzApued jo asn ay} a30\y ‘Ss YDOI ayy Suoure S9STAIII-YIIVI YI UL YIMOIS 10J poidepe sjuryjd jo sutdnois pausisap-]jam v Aq *yOI1q 10 9U04s JO sseuE Bul “HAUIUN pue pfoo Jensn ayi JOU pUL ‘UspILs 1aMOY aya jo jivd & aprw aq uv sdajs uapies MQ ‘“[I[TX ILVv1g Erythronium americanum Adder’s tongue Frittilaria meleagris Guinea-hen Flower Leucojum vernum carpaticum Snowflake Lilium auratum Gold-banded Lily Lilium canadense Wild Yellow Lily Lilium candidum Madonna Lily Lilium philadelphicum Wild Red Lily Lilium speciosum Showy Lily Lilium tigrinum Tiger Lily BULBS 271 Narcissus poeticus Poet’s Narcissus Narcissus leedst amabilis Short-cupped White Daffodil Narcissus Trumpet Major Long Trumpet Daffodil Ornithogalum umbellatum Star of Bethlehem Scilla campanulata Squill Trillium erectum Wake Robin Trillium grandiflorum Large-flowered Wake Robin Tulipa clusiana Lady Tulip Tulipa greigt Early-flowering Red Tulip Tulipa kaufmanniana Early Tulip C. Narcissi For DirFerentT Locations. In moist, well-drained loam use the large trumpet types. In heavier, damper, lower ground use the poeticus and double gardenia-flowered form. In warmer climates, on damp, moist soil, use the double daffodil. In rockeries use the hoop-petticoat, cyclamen-flowered, and triandrus sections. D. Tutte Compinations. The most interesting effect can be obtained from the planting of tulips when study and thought are given to the colour effects of the flowers. Many interesting plantings of tulips have been completely spoiled from the standpoint of the land- scape effect in a garden and on a lawn because sufficient thought has not been given to the relationship between the colours of the flowers and the season of bloom. It sometimes requires a complementary colour or a contrasting colour to make the most interesting flower effect. There are many tulip combinations which may be selected, but the following are a few which may be used as a guide: a. Single: 1 Jeannette (crimson red, edged old rose) ( Kohinoor (crimson red, purplish bloom) Rose precoce (creamy white) Rose ce (blush white, edged salmon rose Primrose Queen (primrose edged canary 1 Queen of the Netherlands (pale rose) ssi, i i an eID Van Berghem (carmine red) Wouverman (dark purple) 72 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Princess Helena (pure white) Joost ey Vondel (cherry red flaked white Goldfinch (chrome yellow) Lady Boreel (snowy white) Chrysolora (clear golden yellow) Dusart (vermilion red) 1 Golden Lion (primrose yellow, edged red) Jaune Aplati (sulphur yellow flushed pale }smn Aplati (white edged salmon rose) rose) White Hawk (pure white) sei: a aaa (primrose edged canary putes Wilhelmina (deep pink) — A trifle (five to six days) later than the above are: Golden Horn (primrose yellow) LeReve (old rose flushed buff) Rosa Mundi Huyckman (rose pink) White Swan (pure white) L’Interessante (dark violet) b. Double: Not as graceful as single. Heavy rains quickly bend over or break the stems of the huge blooms. A trifle later than singles: 1 Lac van Haarlem (rosy violet) 1 LeMatador (glowing scarlet) Safrano (pale sulphur yellow) Schoonoord (white sport from Murillo) Sweetheart (white, slightly tinged pale 1 Boule de Niege (pure white) rose) Couronne d’Or (deep yellow) Don Carlos (glowing crimson) Blue Celeste (violet purple) 1 Rose d’Amour (pale flesh rose) Yellow Rose (yellow) Salvator Rosa (deep rose, flushed white) c. Cottage: Carnation (white, margined rose) Picotee (white, margined rose) oe (pale yellow) Inglescombe Pink (rosy pink) Fairy Queen (rosy lilac) Doris (rosy lilac) Moonlight (canary yellow) Twilight (mauve) Bouton d’Or (deep yellow) d. Darwins: ( Chestnut (dark mahogany) Franz Hals (reddish heliotrope) lFae Butt (rose) Princess Juliana (American beauty) Europa (light American beauty) Dream (pale heliotrope) La Tulipe Noire (purple black) Reverend Ewbank (lavender) Europa (bright rose) Gretchen (pale pink) Clara Butt (rose) Yolande (soft rose) Crepuscule (lilac) BULBS 273 E. Best Varieties For Forcinc. The following bulbs are naad varieties for forcing. A few kinds (see Group b) will flower if kept in bowls of water with enough pebbles to hold them upright. a. Forcing 1n soil. Tulips—early single: Duc Van Tholl (various colours) Duchesse de Parma (crimson with yellow margin) Chrysolora (yellow) Cottage Maid (pink) Flamingo (pink) Vermilion Brilliant (scarlet) Joost van Vondel (striped, red and white) Proserpine (deep rose with metallic petals) Medium-flowering tulips: Thomas Moore (orange) Yellow Prince (yellow) White Swan (white) Rose Grisdelin (pink) Pottebakker (scarlet, yellow, and white) Couleur Cardinal (dark crimson) Double tulips for forcing: Boule de Neige (white) Murillo (pink) Crown of Gold (yellow) Imperator Rubrorum (scarlet) Cottage Tulips: Bouton d’Or (chrome yellow) Carnation (white margined carmine) Elegans alba (creamy white) Fairy Queen (rosy lilac) Inglescombe Pink (soft rosy pink) La Candeur (silvery white) Striped Beauty (silvery rose) Vitellina (primrose to creamy white) Darwin Tulips: For late February or early March: Bartigon (deep red) Pride of Haarlem (purple rose) William Copeland (lavender) William Pitt (dark red) Rev. H. Ewbank (light lavender) For late March and early April: All names in above Dream (dark lilac) Europe (vivid red) Massachusetts (silvery pink) White Queen (white, flushed pink) Harry Veitch (brown red) Princess Elizabeth (deep pink) Psyche (pink) Sieraad van Flora (vivid rose) Farnecombe Sanders (fiery scarlet) Mme. Krelage (dark pink) For late April or early May: Clara Butt (shell pink) Baronne de la Tonnaye (bright rose) Gretchen (soft pink) Loveliness (bright rose) Nora Ware (lilac) Hyacinths (in order of earliness): Garibaldi (deep crimson) Hein Roozen (white) Lady Derby (rose pink) Yellow Hammer (creamy yellow) Buff Beauty (pale yellow striped with straw) Corregio (white) Count Andrassy (lavender blue) Enchantress (porcelain blue) General de Wet (soft light pink) Pink Perfection (mauve rose) La Grandesse (white) Oranjeboven (pale salmon-tinged rose) King of the Blues (dark blue) Etna (dark rose) Large trumpet Narcisst: Emperor Empress Golden Spur Horsfieldi Mme. de Graaff Olympia Silver Spur Victoria W. P. Milner William Goldring Medium trumpet narcissiz Sir Watkin Barri conspicuous Poeticus ornatus Sea Gull White Lady Double narcissiz Van Sion Orange Phoenix 274 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Paper White Narcissus (all varieties) Miscellaneous Bulbs: Chionodoxa Glory-of-the-snow Convallaria majalis Lily-of-the-valley Freesia refracta alba Freesia b. Forcing in water Crocus Mammoth Yellow Crocus Hyacinth Roman (large bulbs) Narcissus Golden Spur Trumpet Narcissus Galanthus Snowdrop Gladiolus The Bride Sword Flower Hyacinth Dutch and Roman Early single varieties Ixia African Corn Lily Narcissus horsfieldt Trumpet Narcissus Narcissus polyanthus totus albus Paper White Narcissus Narcissus polyanthus Soleil d’Or Yellow Paper White Narcissus Sprekelia formosissima Jacobaean Lily CHAPTER XXXVI\ FRAGRANT PLANTS THE group of trees, shrubs, and perennials whose flowers or leaves are fragrant is an important group in the development of an inter- esting variation in landscape plantings, especially on the larger places. There are certain varieties of shrubs, such as the common mock orange, the flowers of which are extremely fragrant, while the flowers of some of the other varieties have no odour whatever. This is a peculiar condition which has not been fully explained, but one which makes a marked difference in the effect of plantings from the standpoint of the fragrance of their flowers. A garden possesses greater charm if fra- grance is one of its attributes. In older times many plants were grown for their sweet odours, both of flowers and leaves. This feature has not been given its due importance in the landscape plant- ings of to-day, and a little study will convince one that a wealth of fragrance can be easily obtained in any planting of trees, shrubs, and perennials, by the proper selection of a few types of plants. The fragrant honeysuckle has a very attractive odour, while the tartarian honeysuckle has flowers with no fragrant odour whatever. The horse-chestnut has flowers with little or no odour, while the false acacia and the black locust fill the air with fragrance. Violets, trailing arbutus, and lilies-of-the-valley add a certain fragrance to the garden, which odour is entirely lacking in many other varieties of perennials. LIST OF FRAGRANT PLANTS A. Fracrant Firowers. The plants in this group are valuable because of the fragrance of their flowers. It is an interesting fact that many species of the same genus are not equally valuable because of the flower fragrance. ‘This is true especially with the mock orange. a. Shrubs: Azalea arborescens Azalea canescens i Smooth Azalea Fragrant Mountain Azalea 275 276 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Azalea viscosa Swamp Azalea Buddleta veitchiana Summer Lilac Calycanthus floridus Strawberry Shrub Clethra alnifolia Sweet Pepper Bush Corylopsis spicata Flowering Hazel Daphne cneorum Garland Flower Itea virginica Virginian Willow Lonicera fragrantissima Early Fragrant Honeysuckle Lonicera spinosa albertt. Large-fruited Honeysuckle Lonicera xylosteum Fly Bush Honeysuckle Magnolia conspicua Chinese White Magnolia Magnolia glauca Swamp Magnolia Osmanthus aquifolium Fragrant Olive Philadelphus coronarius Common Mock Orange Philadelphus zeyhert Hybrid Mock Orange b. Trees: Catalpa speciosa Western Catalpa Gleditsia triacanthos Honey Locust Tilia ( L c. Perennials: Arabis albida Rock Cress Artemisia lactiflora Southernwood Asperula odorata Sweet Woodruff Cheiranthus cheiri (tender) Wallflower Pyrus angustifolia Narrow-leaved Crab Pyrus baccata Siberian Flowering Crab Pyrus coronaria Wild Crab Pyrus floribunda Flowering Crab Pyrus ioensis bechtelt Bechtel’s Crab Pyrus spectabilis riverst Rivers’ Semi-double Chinese Flowering Crab Rhododendron azaleoides Hybrid Pinkster Flower Ribes aureum Flowering Currant Ribes gordonianum Flowering Currant Rosa (in variety) Rose Rubus deliciosus Rocky Mountain Flowering Raspberry Rubus odoratus Flowering Raspberry Syringa vulgaris Common Lilac Viburnum carlest Korean viburnum Paulownia tomentosa Empress Tree Robinia pseudacacta Black Locust in variety) inden Clematis davidiana David’s Clematis Clematis recta. Herbaceous Clematis Convallaria majalis Lily-of-the-valley Dianthus plumarius Scotch Pink FRAGRANT PLANTS Dictamnus fraxinella Gas Plant Epigaea repens Trailing Arbutus Funkia (in variety) Plantain Lily Hemerocallis aurantiaca Fragrant Orange Lily Hemerocallis flava Lemon Lily Hemerocallis thunbergt Lemon Lily Hesperis matronalts Sweet Rocket Iris germanica German Iris Lavandula vera Lavender 277 Malva moschata Musk Mallow Monarda (in variety) Bergamot Oenothera (in variety) Evening Primrose Paeonia albiflora sinensis Chinese Peony Phlox paniculata Garden Phlox Trifolium repens White Clover Valeriana (in variety) Valerian Viola odorata semperflorens Violet Yucca filamentosa Adam’s Needle B. Fracrant Leaves. This is a small but very interesting group of plants. Most produce an attractive odour from the leaves either growing on the plant, or dried and crushed. a. Trees and shrubs: Benzoin aestivale Spice Bush Buxus Boxwood Comptonia asplenifolia - Sweet Fern Perennials: Anthemis Chamomile Artemisia abrotanum Southernwood Artemisia dracunculus Tarragon Asperula odorata Sweet Woodruff Cedronella Balm of Gilead Dictamnus fraxinella Gas Plant Tanacetum Tansy Rhus canadensis Fragrant Sumac Rosa rubiginosa Sweet Brier Rosa rubiginosa hybrida Lord Penzance Hybrid Brier Lavandula vera Lavender Monarda didyma Bergamot Rosmarinus officinalis Rosemary Salvia officinalis Mammoth Sage Sanguisorba minor Burnet Santolina chamaecyparissus Lavender Cotton CHAPTER XXXVIII POISONOUS PLANTS THE increase in the number of country homes that are being built on “new land” makes important an understanding of the common poisonous plants which are likely to occur and which should not be collected for use in planting, but should rather be removed if they are so situated as to prove dangerous to people, or where they may be browsed by animals. “A few of these plants are sold by growers and if planted they should be located after some forethought. Of those in the first list there are several that are really desirable because of their flowers; but all in the second list can easily be dis- pensed with. Similar to the poison ivy or poison oak is the woodbine or Virginia creeper; but the latter has five leaflets on a stem while the objectionable vine has three. There are several desirable species of sumac in addition to the poisonous kind. The species to be avoided can be recognized by its growing in swamps, and it is rarely found in ground at all well drained. It and the poison ivy alike are distin- guished by their white fruits. The first plant in List B, however, primula obconica, the hairy primrose, popular as a house plant, need not be discarded if any person who is susceptible to contact poisons will rinse his hands in alcohol and then wash with soap and water after handling this plant. Where animals may browse, the planter should not place any form of the kalmia or laurel. This is the only desirable plant in List A of considerable range that grazing animals are apt to feed upon. In the west, particularly Wyoming, many sheep are killed by eating the woody aster or the death camas. The darnel poisons men, dogs, horses, and sheep, but does not harm cows, pigs, and ducks. Of those in the first group, the mushroom is the only one that is likely to be eaten by a human being. The more dangerous species of it is the amanita phalloides or “deadly amanita,” for it is widely distributed in woods and meadows and for the phallin that it con- 278 POISONOUS PLANTS 279 tains no antidote is known. It is all the more to be guarded against in its pure white form, resembling the lepiote or edible mushrooms, but, as a rule, the upper surface of the cap is grayish, brownish or greenish. (The different edible mushrooms additional to the white variety as referred to above have caps that are slaty gray, reddish brown, or brownish yellow.) In general, it might be remarked that there is risk in taking into the system any part of a plant the properties of which are not known. The leaves of the wild black cherry, for example, are quite poisonous, especially when dried, and the seeds of the Jamestown weed are more deadly than the rest of the plant; but the physician may make proper use of belladonna, strychnine, and aconite. LIST OF POISONOUS PLANTS Poisonous plants may be divided into two groups: A. Plants which if taken internally either cause irritation or poison the blood. B. Skin irritants. The majority of the plants in the first group are more harmful to farm animals than to human beings. In the second group the reverse is true. A. INTERNALLY PoIsoNnous: Aconitum napellus Helleborus niger Monkshood Christmas Rose Amanita muscaria Kalmia angustifolia Mushroom Sheep Laurel Amanita phalloides Kalmia latifolia Mushroom Mountain Laurel Arisaema triphyllum Lolium temulentum Jack-in-the-pulpit Darnel Atropa belladonna Oxytropus lambertini Deadly Night-shade Slender Loco-weed Cicuta maculata Passiflora incarnata Cowbane Passion Flower Contum maculatum Prunus serotina (leaves) Poison Hemlock Wild Black Cherry Datura stramonium Veratrum viride Jamestown Weed Green Hellebore Delphinium geyt A ylorrhiza parryt Larkspur Woody Aster Zygadenus intermedtus Death Camas 280 THE COMPLETE GARDEN B. Skin [rRITANTS: Primula obconica Rhus toxicodendron Hairy Primula Poison Oak Rhus radicans Rhus vernix Poison Ivy Poison Sumac Stipa spartea (skin irritant for animals only) Porcupine Grass C. Causinc Hay Fever. East of the tooth meridian in the United States ninety per cent. of the cases of hay fever are caused by the common ragweed (Ambrosia elatior) while in the Rocky Mountain and Pacific states the sage brush (Artemisia) replaces the ragweed as the most common hay fever weed. The so-called “rose fever” from which many people suffer each year is not caused by roses at all but by pollen from several different grasses. There are a number of commonly planted ornamental plants which possess hay-fever produc- ing characteristics, as follows: 1. The flowers must be wind pollinated. 2. The flowers must be very numerous. 3. The flowers are generally unscented and not conspicuously coloured. Some plants, like the goldenrods (Solidago), when used in large quantities in a room may prove irritant, but the pollen is not wind borne and thus it is not a true hay-fever plant. Dandelions have been known to cause irritation when children press the flowers too closely to their nostrils; but the dandelion is not a true hay-fever plant. The list of plants given below has been divided into two parts: (a) those plants which are active hay-fever producers, and (b) those which are mild. None of these plants should be used about hosp:‘als, nor where hay-fever sufferers are likely to come in contact with them. . a. Active: Artemisia frigida Chrysanthemum leucanthemum Wormwood Sage Ox-eye Daisy Aster ericoides Dianthus chinensis White Heath Aster Chinese Pink Aster novae-angliae Miscanthus compactus Hardy Garden Aster Plume Grass Carya ovata Eupatorium sessifolium Hickory Upland Grass Centaurea cyanus Helianthus angusttfolius Old-fashioned Cornflower Hardy Sun-flower POISONOUS PLANTS 281 Ipomoea purpurea Common Morning Glory Iva ciliata Marsh Elder uglans nigra J Black Walnas Juniperus virginiana Red Cedar Poa annua Annual Meadow Grass b. Mild: he Acer rubrum Red Maple Acer rubrum drummondi Drummond’s Maple Salix nigra Blaek Willow Populus deltoides Southern Cottonwood Quercus nigra Water Oak Solidago canadensis Goldenrod Spiraea vanhoutter Van Houtte’s Bridal Wreath Vernonia noveboracencis Ironweed Lonicera flava Yellow Honeysuckle Rhus typhina Staghorn Sumac CHAPTER XXXIX ORNAMENTAL PLANTS SUBJECT TO DISEASE AND INSECT PESTS THE purpose of the list of plants given below is not to discourage any prospective planter, even though the list is a formidable one, nor to catalogue all the ornamental plants which may be affected by insects or disease. It should be remembered that ornamental plants, like animals, are much less.subject to disease, and less likely to be harmed also when in good condition. Thus the average person who grows ornamental plants will, if he keeps them from being damaged by mechanical factors such as wounds, lack of food and water, poor soil aeration, and so on, not need to worry very much as to whether they will succumb easily to disease or insect attacks. The true diseases of plants are either physiological, such as tip burn, due to over-transpiration of water during a hot wind, or parasitic. The parasitic diseases either kill by the secretion of toxins and enzymes which destroy plant tissues, or these toxins and enzymes cause ex- cessive tissue growth or diversion of food substances of the plant to the use of the parasite. When the plant tissue is killed a rot, blight, or leaf spot appears and when the second effect takes place the result is a gall, leaf curl, rust, orsmut. The first effect, which results in the immediate death of the plant tissue, is of course the most harmful. Anthracnose is a disease caused by one definite sort of fungus or parasite. While the diseases of plants are not something new, since the his- torical writings of the ancients mentioned rusts, cankers, and smuts, the study of how to combat them is not only a new but an everchanging subject. Accordingly, the reader is urged to consult the latest bul- letins of his State Experiment Station or of the U. S. Department of Agriculture before embarking very far upon a programme of spraying or of otherwise combating these diseases. Not all insects which live on or about plants are harmful. Thus the honey bees, the “‘lady-bugs,” and many others are beneficial since they either pollenate the flowers or eat other harmful insects. The 282 ORNAMENTAL PLANTS 283 types of injurious insects are as follows: plant lice, scales, borers, fruit- eating insects, root-feeding insects, and leaf or bud-feeding insects. The leaf or bud-feeding insects are the most harmful to the appearance of ornamental plants, though borers and scales do a vast amount of damage. Plant lice also, during some seasons of the year, spoil the appearance of some ornamental plants as well as do damage. Much valuable study and thought have been given to the subject of eradication of insect pests and the information available on this subject is very complete. The spray calendars published by the State Experiment Stations should be consulted for details of how to keep ornamental plants clean and thrifty. LIST OF ORNAMENTAL PLANTS SUBJECT TO DISEASE AND INSECT PESTS Not all trees are equally seriously affected by insect pests and in the list below where a long list of insects and diseases are given after a plant name it does not signify that all those insects and diseases commonly occur, but merely that they are known to occur on one or more species of the genus. The list is given merely as a guide showing along what lines to look for further information, and it also indicates the sort of treatment required as outlined in the chapter on Maintenance, under the spraying discussion (See Page 75). Considerable study throughout New York and Ohio in regard to the immunity of trees from insect injury points to the following con- clusions: The arborvitae, tree of heaven, and the ginkgo are practi- cally immune from injurious insects. The American and Oriental planes, the red and scarlet oaks, and the tulip tree and junipers are occasionally attacked. The red, Norway, sugar, and sycamore maples, the white and bur oaks, the honey locust, catalpa, the birches, the spruces, and the white pine have each one serious insect pest. Among the trees very likely to be attacked by insects are the European and American lindens, the American and the water or red elms, the soft maple, the horse-chestnut and buckeyes, and the hackberry. The European and Scotch elms and the willows are very seriously injured by insects, while the yellow locusts and poplars and cottonwoods are so seriously injured as to make it doubtful whether they should ever be used in ornamental planting. In the following alphabetical list of plants all the defoliating larval forms of insects are classed as caterpillars for the sake of brevity, and 284 THE COMPLETE GARDEN because they are all treated in the same way when spraying is re- sorted to; namely, by a poison or a contact insecticide. Alder (powdery mildew, borers, leaf roller, caterpillars, maple scale). Apple (canker, aphids, caterpillars, scales, and bark louse). Arborvitae (bagworm). Ash (trunk rot, canker, leaf spot, borer, caterpillars, and scales). Aster (wilt and blister beetle). Azalea (leaf spot and caterpillar). Barberry (rust, plant louse, and caterpillar). Bayberry (caterpillar). Beech (leaf diseases, anthracnose, mildew on leaves, maple scale, and caterpillars). Birch (anthracnose, heart rot, canker, borer, and caterpillars). Bitter-sweet, (evonymus scale). Box Elder (canker, scales, and caterpillars). Boston Ivy (caterpillars). Buckeye (scales, bark louse, and caterpillars). Catalpa (leaf blight, powdery mildew, and caterpillars). Cherry (black knot, scales, aphis, leaf spot, mildew, and caterpillars). Chestnut (anthracnose, bark disease, weevil, and caterpillars). Chrysanthemum (leaf spot). Columbine (borers). Daphne (magnolia scale). Dogwood (San Jose scale, oyster shell scale, dogwood scale, and bark louse). Elm (leaf diseases, leaf beetle, canker, scale, leaf gall, and caterpillars). Englemann’s spruce (red spider). English Ivy (leaf blight). Evonymus (evonymus scale, and cottony maple scale). Fir (saw fly, timber beetle, borer, and caterpillars). Hackberry (scale and caterpillars). Hazel (caterpillars). Hickory (leaf spot, borers, shuck worm, tussock moth caterpillar, bark beetle, and canker worm). Hollyhock (anthracnose and rust). Hornbeam (caterpillars). Horse-chestnut (leaf blight, rust, tussock moth, bag worm, scales, and bark lice). Hydrangea (leaf blight and rust). Iris (bulb spot, root rot, and leaf blight). Juniper (cedar rust, red spider, and caterpillars). Larch (canker, saw fly, and tussock moth). Lilac (powdery mildew, San Jose scale, bark lice, and caterpillars). Linden (borers, leaf beetle, caterpillars, scale, and red spider). Locust (heart rot, borers, leaf beetle, maple scale, and caterpillars). Magnolia (magnolia scale). Maple (anthracnose, tip burn, sun scald, borers, caterpillars, scale, and twig pruner). Mulberry (bacterial disease, cottony maple scale). ORNAMENTAL PLANTS 285 Narcissus (aphids and eel worms). Oak (anthracnose, caterpillars, powdery mildew, scale, leaf beetle, and twig pruner). Osage Orange (scale, bark louse, and caterpillar). Peach (scales, caterpillars, and borers). Peony (stem rot and leaf spot). Phlox (leaf spot fungus and powdery mildew). Pine (rust, leaf spot, leaf scale, bark louse, saw fly, and weevil). Poplar (anthracnose, rust, leaf beetle, scales, bark louse, borers, and caterpillars.) Privet (anthracnose, twig blight, and webworm). Quince (anthracnose, black rot, and San Jose scale). Red-bud (caterpillars). Rhododendron (lace-wing fly and borers). Rose (anthracnose, mildew, crown gall, nematodes, slugs, scales, and thrips). Shad-bush (red spider). Snapdragon (anthracnose, stem rot, and wilt). Snowball Bush viburnum (aphids). Solomon’s Seal (leaf fungus). Sour Gum (caterpillars). Spice Bush (scale and caterpillars). Spruce (leaf spot, red spider, bug worm, caterpillars, and weevil). Sumac (canker, scale, and caterpillars). Sweet Gum (bagworm and other caterpillars). Sycamore (anthracnose, powdery mildew, leaf folders, caterpillars, and scales). Thorn (caterpillars, scales, plant lice, aphids, and leaf beetle). Tree of Heaven (rose scale). Tulip Tree (scale and caterpillars). Verbena (mildew). Veronica (leaf diseases). Viburnum (see Snowball Bush). Violet (nematodes and leaf spot). Virginia Creeper (leaf spot, caterpillars, and scales). Walnut (anthracnose, mildew, canker worms, caterpillars, and scales). Willow (caterpillars, leaf beetles, borers, and bark louse). Wisteria (leaf beetle). Witch Hazel (caterpillars). Yucca (caterpillars and grubs.) CHAPTER XL PLANTS DIFFICULT TO TRANSPLANT AND THOSE ADAPTED FOR TRANSPLANTING AT SPECIFIC SEASONS OF THE YEAR Tue fact is well appreciated that of all our great range of material used in landscape plantings there are a certain number of these species and varieties which are better adapted to being transplanted at some specific season, either during the spring or during the fall. It is gener- ally safe to assume that plants such as the poplars, willows, and the rose of Sharon, the wood of which is late in ripening, should preferably be transplanted in the spring. If these types are transplanted in the fall, they are, during a normal severe winter, subjected to a considerable winter-killing, and must be severely cut back in the early spring; whereas, if planted in the spring they almost invariably continue grow and require little or no cutting back. The group of perennials which should not be transplanted in the spring consists mostly of those plants which begin their growth at the first sign of spring, and before the ground is really in fit condi- tion to “work.” These plants, by the time the ground is warm and dry enough to permit transplanting in friable soil, have developed so much growth of roots or of both roots and top, that unless they can be immediately moved without any period of delay from their existing location to a new location they should by all means be transplanted during the fall. If such plants are transplanted in the spring the usual result is a check to growth and exceptionally weak development of flowers and of foliage during that season. The fall transplanting of perennials ought to be done, especially with these early spring-flowering types, during September rather than during the latter part of October and November, when the ground is cold and growth is completely stopped. Transplanting earlier in the fall enables the plants to start some root growth and thus to establish themselves to better withstand the winter conditions, especially in the soils containing more or less clay. Especially should the peony, for any degree of success, be trans- 286 (IXXX Joideys 909) ‘uapies SI} Ul s}oaHa JaMOY JUeIOdUI sIOUT ayI sonpoid suoulaue pur indsy1e] ‘ToIpeys ‘syooyATjoy ‘xolyd ‘sII] “wWlooyq jo potiad I1ayy sulinp Inojoo fo sasseut adnpoid Yoru sjetuuaiad SULIaMOY jo sdnoi3 1adIe] JO S}SISUOD Ayyensn sjetuuasad yam peg uspies I91P] SU Nxt Ly id (IX XxX Jeideyp aa§) ‘uosvas dutamoy 942 InNOYsNo1YyI Woo] JO UOIssaDoNS wv IAvY ULD PUTY SIy? Jo Uapies YW “puNnoisydeq 9W917x9 JY? UT SqnsYs YIM JUIeAT B se BSUIAIAS sjetuudtiad jo Japsiog 193no0 ay? pure sjenuuY YIM pal[y ded jesrquad ay) SuapIeS aMOY-IND WY “ATX ALVIg TRANSPLANTING 287 planted in the fall. The iris is peculiar and can be successfully trans- planted at any time when the ground is not frozen. The best time is believed to be immediately after flowering. Plants which are not vigorous in their habit of root growth and which are very susceptible to abnormal conditions of freezing and thawing, or to excessive moisture in the soil during the winter months, should not be transplanted in the autumn. The most important illustra- tions of this type of plants are the beech, the flowering dogwood, and some of the less hardy types of evergreens, such as the arborvitae and the pea-fruited cypress. Many good plantsmen are of the opinion that rhododendrons and azaleas should be planted during the spring months. As is the case with the refined types of evergreens, there is usually less loss from spring planting of this material than from fall planting. ‘The question of period of transplanting in connection with rhododen- drons and with evergreens has been discussed under the chapter on Planting and Transplanting (Page 49). _ While it is desirable in the transplanting of evergreens and of rhododendrons in particular to move them at a time when they are just ready to begin growth, in order to prevent them from standing in a “cold soil,’ it is, on the other hand, necessary to transplant such trees as the beech and the birch when they are absolutely dormant. If they have shown the least signs of growth through the swelling of the buds, the operation of transplanting becomes more difficult, and yet to transplant such material in the fall and to permit it to stand through the winter, especially in a heavy soil, subjects it to the possibility of considerable loss. There is a well-defined group of perennials, typical of which are the chrysanthemum and the Japanese anemone, which can seldom be transplanted with any success during the fall season. The reason for this is that the plant produces flowers at such a late period in the growing season that further root action necessary to establish the plant in a new location and successfully carry it through the winter is not encouraged. Group C includes plants divided into two sub-groups, a those which transplant with difficulty and should rarely if ever be trans- planted, but grown in their permanent location from seed, cuttings, or very small seedlings, and b those which after being transplanted recover very slowly. All of the plants in the first group are the ex- tremely slow-growing types, such as the walnut, the butternut, the ironwood, and the sweet fern. Those typical of the second groups are 288 THE COMPLETE GARDEN the Japanese snowball, the rose of Sharon, boxwood, nursery-grown beech trees, and sweet gum. The author does not intend to convey the impression that any of the plants in either of these groups, especially the first group, cannot be transplanted with success by those who are in a position to know the plants intimately, and to take thorough pre- cautions against any possible injury through transplanting. For the person who is not an expert plantsman and who does not thoroughly understand all of the conditions necessary for the successful trans- planting of the extremely slow-growing types of trees and shrubs the plants in the first group should be avoided, and extreme care should be given to the work of transplanting any of the trees or shrubs included in the second group. Most of the plants included in the second group should be trans- planted for best success during the spring months. Their habit of slow growth and inability to adapt themselves readily to new con- ditions of soil make them very liable to injury on account of drowning- out because of excessive depth of planting, or injury from winter conditions. All of these types are apt to be extremely unsatisfactory during the first two years after transplanting, but when once they have recovered from the shock of transplanting they will grow wonderfully well. LIST OF PLANTS ADAPTED FOR TRANSPLANTING AT SPECIFIC SEASONS OF THE YEAR Under excellent care, good results may be attained by transplanting all plants during the fall planting season, or during the spring planting season. For the best results, however, it is advisable to plant some types during the fall planting season and other types during the spring planting season. The two groups A and B contain plants specifi- cally adapted for planting; some in the fall and some in the spring. Group C contains a list of plants which transplant with extreme difficulty, and can be transplanted with better success during the spring months with the exception of the trailing arbutus listed in Group C-a. This plant is extremely difficult to transplant with any success at any season. Those who have had considerable experience with the trailing arbutus are of the general opinion that if it is taken up during the month of July and moved with a goodly amount of soil about its roots together with some additional soil in which to plant it in the new loca- tion, some success may be assured. Special care should be taken TRANSPLANTING 289 immediately after this plant is transplanted to give it a mulch of some light texture such as partially decayed oak leaves in order to provide a satisfactory fertilizer and to prevent excessive evaporation from the soil which surrounds the roots. A. Priants Wuicu SHOULD BE TRANSPLANTED IN AUTUMN: Anemone pennsylvanica Canadian Windflower Aquilegia (in variety) Columbine Dicentra spectabilis Bleeding-heart Doronicum plantagineum excelsum Leopard’s Bane Hepatica triloba Hepatica Tris (in variety) Iris (See Page 90) Trollius europaeus Lilium (not stem-rooting) Lily Paeonia Peony Phlox divaricata Wild Sweet William Primula (in variety) Primrose Sanguinaria canadensis Bloodroot Trillium (in variety) Wake Robin Piants Wuicu SHOULD BE TRANSPLANTED IN SPRING: Acer rubrum Red Maple Acer saccharinum Silver Maple Anemone japonica Japanese Windflower Azalea (in variety) Azalea Benzoin aestivale Spice Bush Betula (in variety) Birch Buddleia veitchiana Summer Lilac Calycanthus floridus Strawberry Shrub Chrysanthemum (in variety) Chrysanthemum Colutea arborescens Bladder Senna Cornus florida Flowering Dogwood Cotoneaster horizontalis Prostrate Cotoneaster Crataegus (in variety) om Ericaceous plants of all sorts Fagus sylvatica European Beech Hedera helix English Ivy Hibiscus syriacus Rose of Sharon Kalmia (in variety Laurel Kerria japonica Globe-flower Liquidambar styraciflua Sweet Gum Liriodendron tulipifera Tulip Tree Magnolia (in variety) Magnolia Morus rubra Red Mulberry Pieris (in variety) Fetterbush Populus (in variety) Poplar Rhododendron (in variety) Rhododendron 290 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Rhus canadensis Taxus (in variety) Fragrant Sumac Yew Rosa rugosa Ulmus americana Japanese Rose American Elm Stephanandra flexuosa Viburnum plicatum Stephanandra Japanese Snowball Tamarix gallica Vitex agnus-castus French Tamarisk Chaste Tree -C. Prants Wuicu ARE TRANSPLANTED WITH LITTLE SUCCESS: a. Plants to be rarely if ever transplanted. Some plants, especially if collected from the wild, seldom survive the shock of transplanting. Some plants, like the beeches, must be entirely dormant if they are to be moved successfully. The letter (c) after a name indicates that collected plants move with little or no success; but nursery-grown plants move with fair success. Anemone nemorosa Juglans nigra White Wood Anemone Black Walnut Betula (in variety) (c) Juniperus sabina (c) Birch Savin Juniper Carpinus caroliniana Larix laricina American Hornbeam Tamarack Comptonia asplenifolia (c) Myrica carolinensis (c) Sweet Fern Bayberry Epigaea repens Nyssa sylvatica Trailing Arbutus Tupelo Fagus americana (c) Ostrya virginiana American Beech Hop Hornbeam Carya (in variety) Taxus canadensis (c) Hickory Ground Yew Juglans cinerea Tsuga canadensis (c) Butternut Canadian Hemlock Vaccinium vacillans (c) Low Blueberry b. Plants which recover slowly from the operation of transplanting. Some fine species of ornamental plants never recover quickly from the effects of being transplanted. No matter how carefully this work may be carried out there is sure to be a considerable period following when the plant is disappointing in appearance and when it requires careful maintenance if future growth is to fulfill the expec- tation of the planter. Abelia grandiflora Betula (in variety) Hybrid Abelia Birch Acer palmatum Buxus sempervirens Japanese Maple Tree Box TRANSPLANTING 291 Calluna vulgaris Scotch Heather Carpinus betulus European Hornbeam Cercis canadensis Red-bud Cornus florida Flowering Dogwood Crataegus (in variety) horn Fagus sylvatica European Beech Hibiscus syriacus Rose of Sharon Ilex glabra Inkberry Ilex opaca American Holly Kalmia latifolia Mountain Laurel Liquidambar styraciflua Sweet Gum Liriodendron tulipifera Tulip Tree Mahonia aquifolium Oregon Grape Pyrus (in variety) Crab Quercus rubra Red Oak Rhamnus cathartica Common Buckthorn Syringa vulgaris (in variety) Common Lilac Viburnum tomentosum plicatum Japanese Snowball CHAPTER XLI SHRUBS FOR FORCING IN WATER IN EARLY SPRING BEFORE winter has gone and the warm days of early spring cause our early-flowering shrubs to mature some very interesting flowers may be developed indoors on twigs of such plants. ‘These flowers, the harbingers of spring, may be developed almost as well indoors as out of doors at a later date on the plants. The reason for such normal development under abnormal conditions is that the flowers, complete in miniature form, lie within the existing flower buds ready to burst forth when given sufficient heat and moisture. When forcing cut stems of hard wooded ornamental plants in water in winter or early spring, the best results are secured by following a few simple rules. When flowers are desired, select branches of plants which produce flowers from buds formed the previous year. Other- wise, only leaves will result, which of course are sometimes desirable as an addition to the flowers of other sorts. Since all the flowers and leaves which will appear must come from buds already upon the twigs and branches be careful to cut only branches containing plump, full buds, especially when flowers are desired. It is possible to cut these branches at any time from February to April. After cutting the branches care must be taken to keep them from drying out and it is often well worth while to soak the whole twigs for a few hours in warm water, both before starting to force them and occasionally afterward at intervals of a week. ‘This will loosen the bud scales, soften the whole fibre of the twig, and remove dust, thus taking the place of spring showers. The twigs should be from twelve to thirty inches long and placed in fairly large receptacles with plenty of water. The water should be changed every second or third day and should have small pieces of charcoal added in order to help keep it sweet. Each two or three days it is advisable to make fresh cuts at the bottom ends of the twigs and it is often worth while to wash the cut ends in mild soap and water to prevent sliminess. The forsythias or golden bells are the easiest and most successful 292 SHRUBS FOR FORCING IN WATER 293 plants for forcing in water. All sorts of currants are likely to be successful, even including the common black currant of our gardens. The dogwoods, especially the cornelian cherry, should not be over- looked. The fruit trees, such as apples, plums, cherries, and pears, may all be forced though they respond slowly and require several weeks’ time and much patience. The lilacs do not seem to respond easily to forcing in water, nor do the magnolias. ‘There are many common sorts of shrubs, some of which are listed below, which will provide flowers or catkins. In general, those woody plants which flower first in the spring are the ones easiest to force in water. Those which require a longer period to develop flowers from the buds are not forced successfully. LIST OF SHRUBS FOR FORCING IN WATER IN EARLY SPRING Generally speaking, flowers of all early-blooming shrubs, flowering upon wood of previous season, can be forced. The branches may be cut any time after January; but the best results are obtained when the branches are cut after the sap begins to run. Place the branches in water and spray tops several times daily to force bloom. Amelanchier (white and pink) Kerria japonica (yellow) Shad-bush Globe-flower Caragana frutescens (yellow) Lonicera fragrantissima (pink and white) Siberian Pea Shrub Early Fragrant Honeysuckle Cercis canadensis (pink) Philadelphus (all sorts) (white) Red-bud Mock Orange Chaenomeles japonica (pink and red) Prunus cerasus (pink) Japanese Quince Flowering Cherry Colutea arborescens (light yellow) Prunus triloba (pink) Bladder Senna Flowering Plum Cornus mas (light yellow) Pyrus halliana parkmant Cornelian Cherry Parkman’s Crab Corylus americana (brown) Ribes aureum (yellow) Hazelnut Flowering Currant Deutzia gracilis (white) Salix caprea (grey) Slender Deutzia Goat Willow Forsythia (all sorts) (yellow) Spiraea arguta (very fine) (white) Golden Bell Hybrid Snow Garland CHAPTER XLII PRUNING REQUIREMENTS THE question of the necessary pruning required by various trees and shrubs is a natural one. Many persons are under the impression that every tree and shrub requires a certain amount of pruning each year. Many are under the further impression that all of this pruning should be done in the winter and spring, while others are under the impres- sion that it should be done during the summer or fall. The most important fact to be known in connection with the opera- tion of pruning is that one should be thoroughly familiar with the flowering characteristics of the plants to be pruned. Our lawn shrubs especially, which are often subject to the most indiscriminate kinds of pruning, comprise a group of plants with which this chapter is con- cerned. Pruning is done for various purposes, as outlined and dis- cussed in the chapter on Pruning. The question under discussion in this chapter is whether or not all shrubs shall be pruned at a definite season of the year, and if not, what are the special reasons why this standard method of procedure should not be adopted. As referred to in the foregoing paragraph, before any pruning of shrubs is attempted it is essential to recognize their flowering habits. The operation of pruning necessarily involves the removal not only of dead wood but of much wood which is alive and growing; wood which produces flowers and, subsequently, fruit. The spring and early summer-blooming trees and shrubs produce flowers from buds which are formed upon the wood during the previous growing season. ‘These embryo flowers contained within the buds have existed in the bud form since the wood of the previous season had begun to ripen, and they are protected by the scales or outer covering of the bud until such time as the temperature has been sufficient to encourage their growth. It is therefore clear that any pruning which is done upon such plants during the late winter or early spring months, prior to the time when these plants have produced their flowers, is an operation whereby a greater or less quantity of flowers is deliberately removed from the plant. 294 Pirate XLVI. Many of our common garden perennials possess the possibil- ities to produce very interesting colour effects through the colour combination of the flowers. (A) Italian alkanet; (B) hardy marguerite. (See page 231) PRUNING REQUIREMENTS 295 An ornamental plant is rarely over-supplied with flowers. It therefore behooves us to preserve, so far as possible, all of the buds which pro- duce flowers. Practically all of the growth of new wood on these plants, which adds to the increasing size of the plant, develops after the plant has completed its flowering period. Buds containing the flowers for the succeeding year are often developed on wood which is formed after the plant has matured its flowers. Therefore, pruning on plants of this kind, such as the mock orange, high-bush cranberry, snowball, and Van Houtte’s spirea, should be done immediately after the flowers have matured, to stimulate a correct kind of new growth on which may be developed flower buds for the next season. One of the most common faults in connection with the pruning of trees and shrubs is that of applying the same principles of pruning to all kinds of shrubs regardless of whether they are early spring-flowering or late summer- flowering, and in so doing to deprive the plant of much of its beauty and attractiveness exhibited through its mass of flowers. In such shrubs, of the spring and early summer-flowering types, which produce flowers from buds on the growth of the previous year, pruning, to produce the maximum of new growth for increasing the quantity of flowers during the succeeding year, should never be delayed more than two weeks beyond the time when the plant has matured its flowers. On the other hand, there is a group of shrubs of which the best examples are the rose of Sharon, butterfly bush, hydrangea, and snow- berry, which are of the late summer and fall-blooming types, and on which the flower-producing buds are formed on the same season’s growth. To produce the maximum of flowers on such shrubs it is necessary that they should be pruned during the late winter and early spring months before growth for that season has commenced. In this way much of the old wood is removed, and a greater quantity of new wood, with its accompanying flower buds, is encouraged. If a general rule is to be applied to all trees and shrubs it would be much prefer- able to give them a so-called summer pruning, which means that the operation of pruning should be delayed until shortly after the shrubs have completed their flowering. In connection with this discussion it should be borne in mind that there are also some trees and shrubs such as the flowering dogwood, Judas tree, and lilac, which are not so much benefited by annual pruning, and which should be pruned only by the most capable of experts. 296 THE COMPLETE GARDEN There is a group of plants which practically require only the removal of dead wood and superfluous growth. ‘These trees and shrubs are apt to be more or less injured by the operation of pruning. They normally are comparatively slow growing. They have a tendency to grow in- formally and to maintain the normal shape of the plant as they con- tinue to increase in size. The operation of pruning does not encourage a sufficient new growth and oftentimes so changes the physiological con- dition of the plant that the flowering ability is impaired to a marked degree during the succeeding one or two years. From the foregoing discussions it is evident that the operation of pruning, as applied to the questions of just what shrubs to prune in spring and what shrubs to prune in summer, and what shrubs should never or rarely be pruned, is an important one. It is not an operation the decision for doing which should be placed in the hands of any but those who are skilled in the art and those who are thoroughly familiar with the reasons pro and con. PRUNING LISTS A. Suruss NEEDING CompLeTE PRUNING: a. Spring and early summer-flowering: Benzoin aestivale Forsythia (in variety) Spice Bush Golden Bell Berberis thunbergt Hamamelis virginiana Thunberg’s Japanese Barberry Witch Hazel Cephalanthus occidentalis Hippophae rhamnoides Button Bush Sea Buckthorn Cercis canadensis Hydrangea arborescens Red-bud Wild Hydrangea Chionanthus virginica Kerria japonica White Fringe Globe-flower Cornus (in variety) Ligustrum (in variety) Dogwood Privet Cotoneaster (in variety) Lonicera (in variety) Cotoneaster Honeysuckle Deutzia (in variety) Philadelphus (in variety) eutzia Mock Orange Diervilla hybrida Physocarpus opulifolius Hybrid Weigela Ninebark Dirca palustris Rhamnus cathartica Leather-wood Common Buckthorn Elaeagnus angustifolia Rhodotypos kerrioides Russian Olive White Kerria Evonymus (in variety) Robinia hispida Burning Bush Rose Acacia PRUNING REQUIREMENTS Sambucus canadensis Spiraea tomentosa American Elder Hardhack Spiraea arguta Spiraea vanhouttei Hybrid Snow Garland Van Houtte’s Bridal Wreath Spiraea billardi Stephanandra flexuosa Billard’s Spirea Stephanandra Spiraea prunifolia Syringa (in variety) Bridal Wreath Lilac Viburnum (in variety) Viburnum b. Late summer and fall-flowering: Amorpha fruticosa Hydrangea (in variety) False Indigo Hydrangea Buddleia davidi (Cut back in spring to Sorbaria arborea prevent danger of rotting) Chinese Mountain Ash Spirea Sweet-scented Buddleia Spiraea douglasi Ceanothus americanus Douglas’ Spirea New Jersey Tea Symphoricarpos racemosus Clethra alntfolia Snowberry Sweet Pepper Bush Vitex incisa Hibiscus syriacus Cut-leaved Hemp-tree Rose of Sharon B. Suruss NeEepinc REMovAL oF O_tp Woop ONLY: a. Summer pruning: Caragana Magnolia Pea Shrub Magnolia Daphne Mahonia Deciduous Daphne Oregon Grape Halesia Prunus cerasus Silver Bell Flowering Cherry Koelreuteria Pyracantha Varnish Tree Evergreen Thorn Laburnum vulgare Rhododendron Golden Chain Rhododendron Lonicera tatarica Staphylea Tartarian Honeysuckle Bladder-nut Xanthoceras Chinese Flowering Chestnut b. Winter pruning: Aralia Pavia Angelica Tree Dwarf Horse-chestnut Artemisia Robinia Pseudacacia Wormwood Black Locust Cladrastis Yucca Yellow-wood Adam’s Needle 297 298 THE COMPLETE GARDEN C. Trees Wuicu Reguire LittTLe or No PRunine: Aesculus Paulownia Horse-chestnut Empress Tree Catalpa Robinia Indian Bean Locust Liriodendron Sophora Tulip Tree Pagoda Tree Sorbus Mountain Ash D. EverGREENS THaT SHouLD Be PRUNED IN May or JUNE: Abies Picea Fir Spruce Pinus Pine E. Evercreens THat May Bre Prunep aT Any TIME: Chamaecyparis Taxus Cypress Yew Juniperus Thuja Juniper Arborvitae CHAPTER XLIII PLANTS FOR FLORIDA Tue following compilation covers information concerning plants used for different landscape purposes in the Florida zones. Some of these plants are followed by the letter (T) which indicates that such material is tropical and is not adapted to the middle-south and northern por- tion of this state. This list is subject to considerable modification as further study of these plants brings more complete information concerning their adapta- tions and uses. ! The subject of Florida horticulture, especially from the landscape viewpoint, concerning the use and adaptations of plant materials, is yet in its infancy. Very few men have given any serious thought to this subject; at least very little information is now in printed form and available to those interested in this work. Florida is fast developing into one of the great winter playgrounds and home sections for many northern people who wish to escape the undesirable winter conditions. These people enter the state with the intention of developing homes and with every desire to beautify them, as is Customary in connection with northern homes. A great dis- appointment is encountered as soon as they endeavour to consult in- formation which will tend to assist them in the landscape development of their property. This list will be of some value to those persons and to many others who are interested in the use of landscape ma- terials throughout this section of the south. In selecting material for various types of Florida plantings two things must be taken definitely into consideration: Material should be selected which is of real value during the summer months in Florida, and also material must often be selected which is of distinct value during the winter months. The plants included in this list have been selected for their general value throughout the year and more particularly during the winter months. In view of this it is es- sential that this material should be interesting because of its 299 300 THE COMPLETE GARDEN foliage or its flowers during the months from November to the first of April. There are many northern types of material which can easily be used in Florida plantations for its value during the winter months. There are many other types of northern material with which experiments should be conducted concerning their value for plantations in this climate. Many of the plants so familiar to northern plantings can be equally well used in plantings of the far south. Privet, golden bell, magnolia, and spirea are among this group which have value during the winter months. Most of the more hardy-flowering shrubs can be used in plantings, but because their period of flowering and of fruiting does not come during these winter months (December to April) they have been little used. The northern tourist is seeking colour of flowers while occupying his winter home in Florida. He also seeks air and sunshine. The heavy shade provided by the silk oak and the water oak so much desired by Floridians he wishes replaced by warmth of winter sunshine and tropical growth of palms which cast but little shade. ‘The familiar growth of shrubs carrying the atmosphere of the north must be re- placed by shrubs and vines with brilliantly coloured flowers and foliage like the croton, oleander, trumpet-vine, Chinese hibiscus, and chenille plant. The great tendency in Florida plantings has been to develop a “spotty” effect at the expense of sacrificing interesting landscape com- positions. The “mass” planting of the north is seldom seen. Most types of southern plants are perhaps better adapted to specimen plant- ing than to mass effects. For effective mass planting around buildings, the croton, Chinese hibiscus, and chenille plant are among the best. LIST OF PLANTS FOR FLORIDA A. Witnpsreaks. It is often necessary in many locations, espe- cially along the water fronts, to plant windbreaks that will preserve the more tender types of plants and which will preserve the lighter soils against heavy windstorms coming from the direction of the prevailing winds. Windbreaks in this section of the country are not used for the same purpose that windbreaks are generally used in the northern climates where winter protection is the main use. Wind- breaks throughout the Florida section are of greatest value against erosion of the lighter soils because of prevailing winds and injuries to the more tender plants. PLANTS FOR FLORIDA 301 Bambusa argentea Cinnamomum camphora Silver Bamboo Camphor Tree Bambusa striata Grevillea robusta (T) Striped Bamboo Silk Oak Callitris verrucosa Pithecolobium dulce Cypress Pine Manila Tamarind Casuarina equisetifolia Quercus nigra Australian Pine Water Oak B. TREES FOR STREET AND SPECIMEN PLANTING: a. Northern list: This group of trees covers material which can be used throughout northern Florida, southern Georgia, Alabama, and over the area which is known as the Coastal Plain. In general, this list does not extend into Florida farther than one hundred miles south of Jacksonville. Trees in this group which are marked thus (++) are also adapted for street tree and specimen planting in the southern por- tion of Florida as shown on the accompanying list: Acer rubrum Gordonia lasianthus Red Maple Loblolly Bay Albizzia julibrissin Ilex opaca Mimosa American Holly Broussonetia papyrifera Liquidambar styraciflua Paper Mulberry Sweet Gum Cedrus deodara + Magnolia grandiflora Deodar Magnolia Cedrus libant Melia azedarach umbraculiformis Cedar of Lebanon Umbrella Tree Celtis occidentalis +Quercus laurifolia Nettle Tree Laurel Oak +Cercis canadensis Quercus nigra Red-bud Water Oak +Cornus florida Quercus phellos Flowering Dogwood Willow Oak Cunninghamia sinensis Quercus virginiana Chinese Pine Live Oak Ulmus americana American Elm b. Southern list: This group of trees, together with those which are marked thus (+) in the previous list, are adapted especially for street planting throughout the southern and middle section of Florida. Those marked (*) are the more commonly used and perhaps the better types for street tree planting. Adenanthera pavonina Aleurites triloba Circassian Bean Candle-nut Albizzia lebbek (T) Araucaria excelsa (T) Woman’s Tongue Tree Norfolk Island Pine 302 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Bauhinia (in variety) (T) Mountain Ebony Bombax cetba Silk Cotton Tree Callitris robusta Cypress Pine Calophyllum calaba Calaba Tree Canangium odoratum Ylang-Ylang Cassia fistula Yellow Cassia *Casuarina equisetifolia Australian Pine Cedrela odorata West Indian Cedar Cinnamomum camphora Camphor Tree *Cocos plumosa Cocoanut Palm Cryptomeria japonica Japanese Cedar Delonix regia (T) Royal Poinciana Ficus nitida Indian Laurel Ficus species (T) Rubber and Fig Trees Gordonia lasianthus Loblolly Bay *Grevillea robusta (T) Silk Oak Ilex specimens, especially Ilex opaea American Holly Libocedrus decurrens Incense Cedar Mangifera indica Mango Sabal palmetto Cabbage Palmetto *WV ashingtonia robusta California Fan Palm C. Vines. The first part of this group consists of those vines which are commonly known as scrambling vines and which must be provided with a definite support on which they can twine or to which tendrils can attach themselves in order to maintain their upright habit of growth. Most of the vines which are interesting in the north are of great value in Florida planting. There is also an extensive list of vines which will not grow in the northern climates, but which are valuable in Florida. Those which are marked thus (+) are very in- teresting for Florida planting on account of their habit of producing flowers during the winter months. The second part of this group is composed of vines which can be used for covering bare wall surfaces and which will naturally attach themselves to walls of brick, stone, or concrete. These vines are of the evergreen type of foliage and are of value only for their foliage effect. a. Lattices and wire fences: Abrus precatorius Antigonon leptopus Crab’s Eye Vine Mountain Rose + Allamanda hendersoni (T) Ampelopsis quinquefolia Henderson’s Allamanda Virginia Creeper +Allamanda williamsi (T) Aristolochia elegans Williams’ Allamanda Dwarf Dutchman’s Pipe wa > 4 a Pirate XLVII. During the early spring no woodland wild garden is com- plete without its quota of trilliums, grape hyacinth, and hepatica which grow luxuriantly if happily surrounded by correct conditions of soil and shade. (See page 227, group XX XI-C) Pirate XLVIII. Among those plants which become easily established in the wild garden, there is none the flower effect of which excels the Japanese windflower during the late summer. (See page 227, group XX XI-C) PLANTS FOR FLORIDA Beaumontia grandiflora White-flowered Beaumontia Bignonia chinensis Chinese Trumpet Creeper + Bougainvillea braziliensis Paper Flower +Bougainvillea glabra sanderiana Paper Flower Cereus triangularis Cereus Vine Clematis paniculata. Japanese Clematis +Clerodendron thompsonae Scarlet Clerodendron Cobaea scandens (T) Cup and Saucer Vine +Gelsemium sempervirens Carolina Jasmine Jasminum grandiflorum Catalonian Jasmine Lonicera japonica halliana (north) Japanese Honeysuckle Lonicera sempervirens Coral Honeysuckle Passiflora incarnata Purple Passion Flower Vitis capensis Evergreen Grape Masonry walls: Bignonia capreolata Cross Flower Bignonia radicans Trumpet Vine Bignonia speciosa \ South American Cross Vine Evonymus radicans Climbing Evonymus D. SuHruss with ATTRACTIVE FRUIT. 393 Petraea volubilis Queen’s Wreath Pithecoctentum cynanchoides Argentine Monkey’s Comb Porana paniculata Snow Creeper Pyrostegia venusta Flame Flower Rosa laevigata Cherokee Rose Rosa setigera (north only) Prairie Rose Rosa (climbing hybrids) Rose Smilax Greenbrier Solandra guttata Chalice Vine Solanum seaforthianum (T) Tomatillo Solanum wendlandi Tomatillo Thunbergia (in variety) (T) Thunbergia Trachelospermum jasminoides Confederate Jasmine Ficus repens Creeping Fig Ficus villosa Large-leaved Creeping Fig Hedera helix (north only) English Ivy Pyrostegia venusta Flame Flower The following is a group of shrubs which are of value in Florida plantations because of their fruiting characteristics, especially during the winter months. Quite different from similar shrubs in northern climates, these shrubs fruit much more abundantly and retain their fruit a greater length of time in this mild climate than would be the case farther north, THE COMPLETE GARDEN Ardisia revoluta Turkey Fruit Baccharis halimifolta Groundsel Bush Bixa orellana Arnalto Carissa acuminata (T) Natal Plum Chalcas paniculata Orange Jasmine Citrus deliciosa Kid Glove Orange Citrus grandis Grape-fruit Citrus japonica Kumquat Citrus sinensis Orange Clerodendron siphonanthus Turk’s Turban Cotoneaster acuminata Rose Box _ Cotoneaster frigida Rose Box Cotoneaster pannosa Silver-leaved Rose Box Duranta repens Golden Dewdrop Eleagnus pungens Silver Thorn Eriobotrya japonica edlar Eugenia jambos Rose Apple Eugenia uniflora Surinam Cherry Hamelia erecta Scarlet Bush Ilex cassine Dahoon Holly Ilex opaca American Holly Laurocerasus caroliniana Wild Orange Malpighia coccigera Dwarf Barbadoes Cherry Mangifera indica Mango Musa Banana Punica granatum Pomegranate Rhodomyrtus tomentosus Downy Myrtle Tamarindus indica Tamarind Triphasia trifoliata Bergamot Berry E. Hepces. For hedge planting there is in Florida a wider range of material adapted to such use than is ordinarily found in northern types of material. The first group given includes those shrubs which make low, compact hedges together with those which develop into a larger and looser type of hedge. Those shrubs which are marked (+) are valuable for hedge planting because of their flowering and fruiting characteristics. The remainder are valuable mostly on account of the foliage effect. The second list of material, which is for northern Florida, could be greatly enlarged provided it should seem advisable to use material which is often used in hedges planted farther north and which shed their leaves during the winter months. The group includes plants which are practically evergreen or which have some value for their fruit or flowers. Practically all of these can be used with equal success in middle and southern Florida. a. PLANTS FOR FLORIDA 305 Middle and southern Florida: +Acalypha hispida (T) Chenille Plant Bambusa disticha Bamboo +Carissa bispinosa (T) Natal Plum Cinnamomum camphora Camphor Tree + Eugenia uniflora Surinam Cherry +Gardenia florida Cape Jasmine Gordonia lasianthus Loblolly Bay + Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Chinese Hibiscus Juniperus lucayana Southern Red Cedar Nerium oleander Oleander Northern Florida: Abelia grandiflora Hybrid Abelia Berberis thunbergt Thunberg’s Japanese Barberry Buxus sempervirens Tree Box Citrus trifoliata Hardy Orange Evonymus japonicus Evergreen Evonymus Phyllanthus nivosus Snow Bush Pittosporum tobira Tobira Shrub Pittosporum undulatum Victorian Box Prunus caroliniana Carolina Laurel Cherry Psidium cattleianum Cattley Guava Raphiolepis indica Indian Hawthorn Severinia buxifolia Severino’s Citrus Tabernaemontana coronaria flore pleno Rose Bay Triphasia trifoliata Bergamot Berry Viburnum tinus Laurestinus Ligustrum amurense Amoor River Privet Ligustrum nepalense variegata Variegated Nepaul Privet Nerium oleander Oleander Punica granatum Pomegranate Rosa rugosa Japanese Rose Thea sinensis F. FLowerinc SHRuBs FOR MIDDLE AND SOUTHERN FLorIDA, The following is a group of shrubs of more refined habit of growth which are adapted to middle and southern Florida. Those shrubs which are marked (+) are in flower during the winter months and are especially valuable for the northern tourists who visit Florida then. a. White flowers: Abelia grandiflora Hybrid Abelia Aralia spinosa Hercules Club +Assonia natalensis White Assonia + Azalea indica Indian Azalea 306 ¢. THE COMPLETE GARDEN + Bauhinia acuminata (T) White Mountain Ebony Chalcas paniculata (T) Orange Jasmine +Chionanthus virginica White Fringe Cotoneaster frigida Rose Box Cotoneaster pannosa Silver-leaved Rose Box Eleagnus pungens Silver Thorn Gardenia florida Cape Jasmine + Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Chinese Hibiscus Hydrangea hortensis Japanese Hydrangea Ixora colei (T) White Ixora + Lagerstroemia indica Crape Myrtle + Laurocerasus caroliniana Wild Orange Lawsonia inermis (T) Henna Ligustrum nepalense Nepaul Privet + Nerium oleander (single white) White Oleander Osmanthus americanus Florida Olive Osmanthus fragrans Sweet Olive +Pittosporum tobira Tobira Shrub +Plumbago capensis alba White Leadwort + Rosa (on multiflora stock) Garden Roses + Tabernaemontana coronaria fore pleno Rose Bay Tetrapanax papyriferum Rice Paper Plant Thunbergia erecta alba White Thunbergia Viburnum odoratissimum Fragrant Japanese Viburnum +Viburnum tinus Laurestinus Pink flowers: +Assonia punctata Pink Assonia + Azalea indica Indian Azalea +Bauhinia purpurea triandra Pink-flowering Mountain Ebony Camellia japonica Japonica +Cestrum elegans _ Red Coral Jasmine Chaenomeles japonica Japanese Quince Cotoneaster acuminata Rose Box + Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Chinese Hibiscus Yellow flowers: Acacia farnesiana Papinac + Allamanda nertfolia Yellow Allamanda Hydrangea opuloides otaksa Hydrangea Ixora rosea splendens (T) Rose-coloured Ixora Lagerstroemia indica Crape Myrtle Nerium oleander Savort Pink Oleander Punicea granatum Pomegranate Rhodomyrtus tomentosus (T) Downy Myrtle + Rosa (on multiflora stock) Garden Roses Tamarix caspica Tamarisk Artobotrys odoratissimus False Ylang-Ylang + Bauhinia tomentosa (T) Yellow Mountain Ebony PLANTS FOR FLORIDA ‘307 +Caesalpina pulcherrima flava Barbadoes Flower Fence +Cestrum aurantiacum (T) Yellow Cestrum Hamelia sphaerocarpa Scarlet Bush Ixora flore luteo (T) Yellow Ixora + Jasminum nudiflorum Naked-flowered Jasmine + Jasminum primulinum New Chinese Jasmine d. Red flowers: + Acalypha hispida (T) Chenille Plant + Azalea indica Indian Azalea Caesalpina pulcherrima Barbadoes Flower Fence Callistemon lanceolatus Bottle-brush Calycanthus floridus Strawberry Shrub Eu horbta pulcherrima oinsettia Hamelia erecta (T) Scarlet Bush e. Purple and blue flowers: +Allamanda purpurea Purple Allamanda Asystasia bella Mackaya + Azalea indica Indian Azalea Bauhinia purpurea (T) Purple Mountain Ebony Callicarpa americana Beauty Fruit Thevetia nerlfolia Trumpet Flower + Michelia fuscata Banana Shrub Paritium tiliaceum Yellow Ernajagua Podachaenium eminens Mexican Shrub Daisy + Rosa (on multiflora stock) Garden Roses +Stenolobium stans sambuctfolia Yellow-flowering Elder +Tecoma stans Yellow Elder +HAibiscus rosa-simensis Chinese Hibiscus Ixora coccinea (T) Sats Ixora agerstroemia indica rape Myrtle Lawsonia rubra Red Flowering Henna Malvaviscus arboreus Turk’s Cap Nerium oleander DeBrun Double Crimson Oleander + Roses (on multiflora stock) Garden Roses +Daedalacanthus nervosus (T) Blue Justicia Duranta repens Golden Dewdrop + Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Chinese Hibiscus Hydrangea opuloides otaksa Pi: rangea agerestroemia indica rape Myrtle +Plumbago capensis Blue Leadwort G. Grounp-coverR Piants. This list contains a group of vines which are interesting for ground cover in partially shaded situations. Most of these vines are evergreen in their habit of foliage and are of 308 THE COMPLETE GARDEN value for covering banks and other bare areas where it is desired to have another covering than grass. Ferns (in moist shade) Lonicera sempervirens Ferns Coral Honeysuckle Gelsemium sempervirens Zebrina pendula Carolina Jasmine Wandering Jew Hedera helix Zoysia matrella English Ivy Manilla Grass Lonicera japonica halliana Zoysia tenutfolia Japanese Honeysuckle Mascarene Grass H. Surugs ror SHapy Conpitions. The following is a group of shrubs most of which are evergreen in their foliage characteristics, and all of which are adapted for plantations in partial shade, either under large trees or on the north side of buildings where full sunlight is not available. Azalea indica Ligustrum amurense Indian Azalea Amoor River Privet Camellia japonica Ligustrum nepalense variegata Japonica Variegated Nepaul Privet Hamelia erecta Osmanthus fragrans Scarlet Bush Sweet Olive Hamelia sphaerocarpa Severinia buxtfolta Scarlet Bush Severino’s Citrus I. Hersaceous Prants. This group includes plants many of which are semi-woody in character and which fundamentally are known as herbaceous stock. There is still a great opportunity to introduce a number of the northern types of herbaceous stock into the garden plantations of Florida. This list is compiled as a partial list of those which to date have been found to be of real interest and value. Many other plants may be added to this list in safety, but because of the lack of record of experiments conducted with their growth in this climate they have not been included. The climate of middle and southern Florida has been aptly described by one horticulturist as that of a great out-of-door greenhouse. The climate is such that many of the flowering annuals so familiar to the gardens of the north prove failures when grown in the Florida garden. Such plants as the annual larkspur, snapdragon, China aster, sweet William, and baby’s breath, producing such an abundance of cut flowers when grown in the north, are grown with little success in Florida. PLANTS FOR FLORIDA 309 Nasturtiums, annual phlox, gaillardia, zinnias, and marigolds pro- duce quantities of flowers. In the north such annuals are seeded in the latter part of April. Flowers are then produced early in July. In the Florida garden, if flowers are desired early in January, the nasturtium seeds are sown during the first week of September, alyssum seeds not later than No- vember tenth, sweet peas in early September, and the other annuals, such as annual phlox, gaillardia, verbenas, annual carnation, and calendulas, are seeded not later than the first week in October. If flowers are wanted at an earlier date seeds should be sown proportion- ately earlier. The winter months are better for the growth of flowers. Very few persons in Florida attempt to grow annuals during the hot and usually dry months of summer. It seems at first, to the garden lover from the north, that any of the northern garden flowers should grow vigorously in the Florida cli- mate. Many keen disappointments await these persons. Those who have tried growing many kinds in an effort to obtain garden flower effects and flowers for table use have finally accepted, as the reliable types, the few that are starred in the following group: *Acalypha hispida *Dianthus caryophyllus Chenille Plant Carnation Agave Funkia (north only) Century Plant Plantain Lily Ageratum *Gaillardia grandiflora Floss Flower Blanket Flower *Alyssum (in variety) Gynerium (north only) Madwort Pampas Grass *Aster novae-angliae Climax Gypsophila paniculata Blue Hardy Aster Baby’s Breath Bambusa (in variety) Hemerocallis (north only) Bamboo Day Lily Chrysanthemum (north only) Hippeastrum Chrysanthemum Amaryllis Clerodendron squamatum Tris hexagona Chinese Tube-flower Florida {ris Codiaeum variegatum (in variety) Lantana (T) Croton Lantana *Coreopsis tinctoria Lilium henryt Tickseed Yellow Lily Cyperus alternifolius Limnocharis humboldtt Umbrella Plant Water Poppy 310 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Nelumbo *Tropaeolum majus American Lotus Nasturtium Nuphar *Verbena hybrida Spatter-dock Verbena Nymphaea Vinca Water-lily Periwinkle *Phlox drummondt Viola Drummond’s Phlox Violet Russelia juncea *Yucca filamentosa Fountain Plant Adam’s Needle *Zinnia elegans Zinnia J. Piants For SEASHORE Piantinc. Peculiar as it may seem, along the shores of the larger lakes, and along the seashore particularly, the group of plants which can be used 1s restricted to those plants which are particularly adapted to light, sandy soils and also to withstand the heavy storms, mostly in the nature of wind storms, to which such plants are often subjected. a. Trees: Casuarina equisetifolia Ilex opaca Australian Pine American Holly Coccoloba unifera Juniperus barbadensis Shore Grape Red Cedar Eucalyptus citriodora Lemon Gum Ficus aurea Liquidambar styraciflua Sweet Gum Wild Rubber Palms (in variety) Gliricidia maculata Pithecolobium dulce Madre Manila Tamarind Plumeria (in variety) Frangipani Trees b. Shrubs: Acacia farnesiana Lagerstroemia indica Papinac Crape Myrtle Caesalpina pulcherrima Myrica cerifera Barbadoes Flower Fence Bayberry Callistemon Nerium oleander Bottle-brush Oleander Carissa acuminata Pittosporum tobira Natal Plum Tobira Shrub Hibiscus rosa-sinensts Tamarix caspica Chinese Hibiscus Tamarisk Ixora (in variety) Thevetia neretfolia Ixora Trumpet Flower Prate XLIX. In the selection of perennials for the garden not only should the possibilities of interesting colour combinations in the flower effects be ob- served, but also the possibilities for interesting texture of foliage. (A) lark- spur; (B) lemon lily (commonly called day lily). (See page 231) ome Allamanda | | Clerodendron thompsonae | Scarlet Clerodendron Cryptostegia madagascariensis Me Pink Madagascar Cryptostegia —- Bougainvillea Solanum ” Paper Flower _ Tomatillo CHAPTER XLIV PLANTS FOR MINNESOTA Tue lists given in this chapter cover the more common uses for which plants are selected. Perennial lists are not given because perennial plantings succeed according to the skill of the grower in adapting them to his location and giving them necessary winter protection. Constant care must be exercised to replace winter losses. The discussion in the main part of the foregoing text under the different lists and groups of plants applies equally well to most of the northern part of the United States, including Minnesota and adjoining territory. Throughout this region spring planting is preferable to autumn, if it is done early enough, except of course for peonies and irises. In es- pecially dry autumn weather autumn-planted stock is quite likely to prove a total loss. Ordinary shrubs and trees can be moved in the autumn under good conditions and this is also true of locally grown conifers moved in September; but other plants, and especially the perennials, should be moved only in the spring. Owing to the severity of the climate, especially in dry winters, sometimes without snow more than six inches deep, there is little tendency to encourage experimenting with half-hardy stock and most of the lists given are short. These lists apply to an area within a two-hundred-mile radius of the Twin Cities in every direction. In eastern Wisconsin the Great Lakes would temper the climate, while northern Minnesota would be still more severe than at the Twin Cities, especially on sandy pine soils. Western Minnesota is quite similar, but a little more subject to drought and high winds. Central Iowa can grow a slightly larger list of plants because of a warmer climate and perhaps a little more rainfall. In making a selection of plants from any of the other lists in this book for use in this region, first consult List XLIV-G to eliminate all types which have proved not hardy. The other lists may be consulted freely 312 PLANTS FOR MINNESOTA 313 with this exception. All plants of questionable hardiness should be carefully protected. LIST OF PLANTS FOR MINNESOTA A. Hepces. Owing to the severe exposure to which a hedge may be subjected only small groups can be recommended as entirely “‘iron- clad.” No broad-leaved evergreens can be listed and only the most hardy sorts of conifers, among them being the Black Hills variety of the white spruce, given here as picea canadensis. Early spring-flowering shrubs like the golden bell and deutzia are not hardy and none of the beeches should be used for windbreaks or other types of hedges. Most of the other plants shown in Chapter XII can be planted safely. a. SBarriers: Crataegus coccinea Scarlet-fruited Thorn Hippophae rhamnoides Sea Buckthorn Juniperus virginiana Red Cedar Lonicera tatarica Tartarian Honeysuckle Picea canadensis Black Hills Spruce b. Windbreaks: Acer tataricum Tartarian Maple Picea canadensis Black Hills Spruce Pinus nigra austriaca Austrian Pine Picea excelsa Norway Spruce Rhamnus cathartica Common Buckthorn Ribes alpinum Alpine Currant Ribes oxycanthoides Wild Gooseberry Rosa rugosa Japanese Rose Pinus strobus White Pine Pinus sylvestris Scotch Pine Salix Willow B. Grounp Cover. No evergreen ground-cover plants seem to prove hardy in the region covered by this list, and so the plants given are confined to deciduous shrubs and vines. Perennials can be used in proportion to the winter protection provided for them. a. Shrubs: Artemisia sericea Siberian Wormwood Comptontia asplenifolia Sweet Fern Ribes aureum Flowering Currant Ribes oxycanthoides Wild Gooseberry 314 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Rosa arkansana Arkansas Rose Rubus odoratus Flowering Raspberry Spiraea sorbifolia Sorb-leaved Spirea Spiraea tomentosa Hardhack Symphoricarpos vulgaris Indian-currant b. Vines: Ampelopsis sepa Lycium halimifolium Virginia Creeper Matrimony Vine Celastrus scandens Menispermum canadense American Bitter-sweet Common Moonseed C. Piantrs VALUABLE FOR AUTUMN COLOURATION OF LEAVES. Only plants which show good autumn colour, either at an early or medium season, prove valuable in this region since late colour is in- variably destroyed by hard freezes. a. Early: Acer negundo Celtis occidentalis Box Elder Nettle Tree Acer rubrum ee eugenet Red Maple arolina Poplar Acer saccharum Rhus typhina Sugar Maple Staghorn Sumac Betula lutea Sassafras officinale Yellow Birch Common Sassafras b. Medium: Ampelopsis quinquefolia Quercus rubra Virginia Creeper Red Oak Vaccinium corymbosum Thunberg’s Japanese Barberry High-bush Blueberry Fraxinus americana Viburnum acerifolium White Ash Maple-leaved Viburnum Berberis thunbergi D. Heavy, Format Errects. Either due to the prevalence of ice storms which break them down or to their inherent lack of hardiness, most of the plants which are elsewhere available for heavy, formal effects are not available in thisregion. This group is accordingly a small one. Juniperus virginiana Picea excelsa Cale Red Cedar Pyramidal Norway Spruce Juniperus virginiana glauca Populus alba pyramidalts Blue Virginia Cedar Bolle’s Poplar Populus nigra italica Lombardy Poplar PLANTS FOR MINNESOTA 315 E. Street Trees. The group of trees (a) given as entirely hardy is interesting for the following reasons: The American linden, here substituted for the European linden—which is of doubtful hardi- ness—is not ordinarily used elsewhere on account of dropping its leaves in late summer when used as a city street tree. The hackberry, while a native of the major part of the United States east of the Rocky Mountains, does not succeed well enough outside of the northwestern portion of its range to enable listing it elsewhere as a street tree. Its natural habitat is rich, moist soil. The white ash is a handsome orna- mental tree native of the eastern United States and not nearly often enough used as a street tree. a. Entirely hardy under all conditions: Acer saccharum Quercus coccinea Sugar Maple Scarlet Oak Celtis occidentalis Quercus rubra Nettle Tree Red Oak Fraxinus americana Tilia americana White Ash American Linden Ulmus americana American Elm b. Which should be selected with a thorough knowledge of the condi tions under which they are to be used: Acer saccharinum Populus eugenet Soft Maple Carolina Poplar Acer platanoides Pyrus ioensts Norway Maple Western Crab Betula papyrifera Sorbus americana Paper Birch American Mountain Ash F. Evercreens Most Usep. The group of conifers most used in Minnesota is restricted to a few of the “ironclad” sorts. These are all native species and when used the following notes should be borne in mind. The hemlock is not naturally adapted to windswept places anywhere, and especially not in this region. Of the white fir only the Colorado form should be used, and while this plant will withstand considerable heat and drought it is intolerant of smoke and soot. The arborvitae suffers frequently from ice storms and should be protected from them, The Douglas spruce is one of the fastest if not the fastest 316 THE COMPLETE GARDEN growing conifer. It produces a soft foliage which requires that it be planted in groups for mutual protection against strong winds. Abies concolor Pinus nigra austriaca White Fir Austrian Pine Juniperus (in variety) Pinus resinosa Cedar Red Pine Picea alba Pinus strobus White Spruce White Pine Pinus sylvestris Scotch Pine Pseudotsuga douglast Douglas Fir Thuja occidentalis (in variety) American Arborvitae Picea canadensis Black Hills Spruce Picea excelsa Norway Spruce Picea pungens glauca Koster’s Blue Spruce Tsuga canadensis Canadian Hemlock G. Not Harpy in Minnesota. The following group contains plants which are not hardy when used in the Minnesota section. These plants are generally in one of three groups: the early spring-flow- ering types, the broad-leaved and tender evergreens, and those which ripen their wood late in the fall. As a result of years of experience in landscape planting, these types have not proved hardy, although many of them are extremely hardy when used throughout the northwestern and central portions of the United States. Acer palmatum Japanese Maple Akebia quinata Five-leaved Akebia Axalea (in variety) Azalea Benzoin aestivale Spice Bush Buxus (in variety) Boxwood Callicarpa (in variety) Mulberry Catalpa (in varie jockey Bean ey Cercis canadensis Red-bud Chamaecyparis (in variety) Japanese Cypress Clethra alnifolia Sweet Pepper Bush Cornus florida Flowering Dogwood Cornus kousa Japanese Dogwood Cornus mas Cornelian Cherry Deutzia (in variety) Deutzia Exochorda (in variety) Pearl Bush Fagus sylvatica European Beech Forsythia (in variety) Golden Bell Halesia tetraptera Silver Bell Tree Hibiscus (in variety) Rose of Sharon Ilex (except verticillata) Holly PLANTS FOR MINNESOTA 317 Jasminum (in variety) Jasmine Kalmia (in variety) Laurel Kerria (in varie Ciena: ey Ligustrum (most varieties) Privet Lonicera japonica halliana Japanese Honeysuckle Magnolia (in variety) Magnolia Mahonta (in variety) Oregon Grape Myrica (in variety) Bayberry Prunus (most varieties) Flowering Almonds and Cherries Rhododendron (in variety) Rhododendron Taxus (in variety) Yew CHAPTER XLV PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES Tue territory for which this list has been prepared comprises that lying between the Atlantic Ocean on the east and the Appalachian foot- hills or Piedmont on the west, and extending from Washington, D. C., to Savannah, Atlanta, and southern Alabama. This territory includes the eastern half of Virginia and of North Carolina, nearly all of South Carolina and of Georgia and all of Alabama lying south and east of Birmingham (See Plate No. II). Owing to the influence of the mountains on the west and north, and of the Atlantic Ocean with its Gulf Stream on the east, this territory is especially favourable for the growing of plants which would not succeed at the same latitude farther inland. This territory has a high annual average humidity and a rainfall of 50 to 60 inches each year. It has a low narrow range in temperature—about 30 degrees— and a long growing season, extending from one hundred and eighty days in the north to two hundred days in the south. All of these factors con- tribute to the successful growth of many somewhat tender plants and in some cases also force the growth of northern plants to a great size. The most that can be done under present conditions with a list of this kind and until such time as further information is compiled, is to tabu- late some of the more important types of plants which have been used throughout this southern territory. It must be remembered that with the much longer growing season and the higher average of rainfall plants will grow much more vigorously and much larger than the same plants will grow throughout the northern zones. Plants which may be adapted to a certain use in the zones farther north may be en- tirely inappropriate for a similar use in this southern territory. For this reason intimate knowledge should be obtained concerning the growing characteristics of any types that are to be introduced into the southern conditions. Many of the plants adapted for use in the northern zones will readily produce an abnormal growth in these southern zones as represented by 318 Pirate L. A few water lilies may enhance a picture such as the above, but a proper restraint on their use and control is always desirable. (See page 234, group XX XI-L-a) LLL — — — — — — (-T-IXXX dnois ‘Ez aded 90g) *pasn A][nyssaoons wnpas AMoys puv ‘ssvi3 aurmnyd *aJIIISISOO] ‘Ayt-urequeyd ‘sql ‘A[t-Aep ‘MO][PUW-YSIBUL 94} Saas UO ainjoid sty} UT ‘s}urjd SUTAO]-1910M jo sdnois ya pojueyd aie adpa s.193vM 9yi Ivau syuRq oy2 fl JOaHa [einjeu v aatada1 Avul puod 30 axe] [PIOyIe ayy, "[] aALvig PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES 319 the south Atlantic states. On the other hand, very few of the plants which are indigenous to this south Atlantic area will prove hardy when used in the territory north of Washington. For instance, Hall’s climbing honeysuckle is one of the plants common to both the northern zone and the southern zone, but in the southern territory this plant produces a much more interesting development of foliage and of flowers while in the northern zones the same plant suffers severely from winter- killing of the small and more tender portions of its growth. There are a few of our desirable northern types, such as lilacs, which adjust themselves with extreme difficulty to the changed climatic conditions. On the other hand, the hydrangea is grown with remarkable success in the south. LIST OF PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES A. Grounp Cover. This group of plants for ground cover is more restricted than the group including plants available for use farther north. This is due to the fact that many herbaceous perennials do not succeed in the long, hot summers of the south. a. Moist places: Houstonia serpyllifolia Creeping Bluet Lysimachia nummularta Asarum artfolium Mottled Snakeroot Asarum virginicum Virginia Snakeroot Moneywort Dalibarda repens Phlox subulata Barren Strawberry Moss Pink Evonymus radicans Sedum nevi Climbing Evonymus Hedera helix English Ivy Helontas bullata Swamp Pink Dry places: Ampelopsis quinquefolta Virginia Creeper Ampelopsis tricuspidata veitcht Boston Ivy Ceratiola ericoides Southern Heather Clematis paniculata Japanese Clematis Nevius’ Stonecrop Vinca minor Periwinkle Viola cornuta Tufted Pansy Coronilla cappadocica Mediterranean Crown Vetch Coronilla emerus Scorpion Senna Coronilla varia European Crown Vetch Duchesnea indica Yellow Strawberry 320 B. HeEnpcEs. THE COMPLETE GARDEN Iris cristata q Crested Iris Lonicera brownt Brown’s Honeysuckle Lonicera heckrottt Purple-flowering Honeysuckle Lonicera japonica halliana Japanese Honeysuckle Opuntia vulgaris Barberry Fig Saxifraga virginiensts Early-blooming Saxifrage Shortia galacifolia Shortia Vinca major Trailing Vinca Yucca filamentosa Adam’s Needle Yucca flaccida Drooping-leaved Adam’s Needle The following groups include mostly plants which are distinctive in this region or are not available for use farther north. This is especially true of the evergreen list. a. Holding leaves throughout winter: Abelia chinensis Chinese Abelia Abelia floribunda Mexican Abelia Abelia grandiflora Hybrid Abelia Abelia triflora Himalayan Abelia Acacia armata Kangaroo Thorn Azalea amoena Hardy Evergreen Azalea Berberis hakeotdes Chilean Barberry Buxus (in variety) Boxwood Buxus sempervirens Tree Box Buxus suffruticosa Dwarf Box Camellia japonica Japonica Cedrus deodara Deodar Chamaecypario Japanese Cypress Cinnamomum camphora Camphor Tree Cotoneaster rotundifolia lanata Box-leaved Cotoneaster Gardenia jasminoides Cape Jasmine Ilex aquifolium English Holly Ilex erenata Japanese Holly Ilex opaca American Holly Juniperus virginiana Red Cedar Libocedrus decurrens Incense Cedar Ligustrum amurense Amoor River Privet Ligustrum ibota Japanese Privet Ligustrum japonicum Evergreen Privet Ligustrum lucidum Shining-leaved Privet Ligustrum nepalense Nepaul Privet Ligustrum quthout Late-blooming Privet Ligustrum sinense Chinese Privet Osmanthus aquifolium Fragrant Olive Osmanthus fragrans Sweet Olive Pittosporum tobira Tobira Shrub Prunus caroliniana Carolina Laurel Cherry Prunus laurocerasus English Laurel PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES Pyracantha coccinea lalandi Evergreen Thorn Thea sinensis Tea Plant b. Not holding leaves throughout winter: Acer campesire European Cork Maple Citrus trifoliata Hardy Orange Deutzia kalmiaeflora Yucca filamentosa Adam’s Needie Pink-flowered Hybrid Deutzia Deutzia longifolia Long-leaved Deutzia Deuizia myriantha White-flowered Hybrid Deutzia Rosa rugosa Japanese Rose 321 Thuja orientalis Oriental Arborvitae Viburnum tinus Laurestinus Deutzia purpurascens Purple-flowered Deutzia Hibiscus syriacus Rose of Sharon Ligustrum ovalifolium California Privet Lonicera fragrantissima Early Fragrant Honeysuckle Prunus americana Wild Plum C. TREES FOR STREET PLantinG. This group comprises only those street trees which are most likely to produce the best results under normal conditions. Aesculus indica Himalayan Horse-chestnut Aesculus octandra Sweet Buckeye Aesculus wilsont Wilson’s Chinese Horse-chestnut Ailanthus glandulosa Tree of Heaven Celtis mississippiensts Southern Hackberry Celtis occidentalts Nettle Tree Celtis sinensis Chinese Nettle Tree Fraxinus biltmoreana Biltmore Ash Fraxinus caroliniana Water Ash Ginkgo biloba Maidenhair Tree Gleditsia delavayi Long-spined Honey Locust Gleditsia japonica Japanese Honey Locust Gleditsia sinensis Chinese Honey Locust Liquidambar styraciflua Sweet Gum Magnolia acuminata Cucumber Tree Magnolia grandiflora Magnolia Magnolia tripetala Umbrella Tree Nyssa sylvatica Tupelo Quercus coccinea Scarlet Oak Quercus imbricaria Shingle Oak Quercus laurifolia Laurel Oak Quercus nigra Water Oak 322 THE COMPLETE GARDEN uercus palusirts Quercus rubra : Pin Oak Red Oak Quercus phellos Quercus virginiana Willow Oak Live Oak Ulmus alata Winged Elm D. Evercreens Most Usep. The climate of the south Atlantic states (Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, and Ala- bama) provides an opportunity to use the broad-leaved evergreens in great profusion as well as certain sorts of conifers which are not desir- able farther north. All the broad-leaved evergreens mentioned else- where in this book are useful in this region, as well as the coniferous plants named below. All of these plants, however, with the exception of the junipers, require at least partial shade (See Chapter X XXIII). The firs, spruces, hemlocks, American arborvitae, and Douglas fir should never be used in this region at elevations below 1,200 feet above sea level. Chamecyparts pisifera filifera Thread-branched Cypress Chamecyparts pisifera plumosa Plume-like Cypress Cryptomeria japonica (in variety) Cedrus atlantica Mt. Atlas Cedar Cedrus atlantica glauca Mt. Atlas Silver Cedar Cedrus deodara Deodar Japanese Cedar Cedrus libant Cupressus sempervirens fastigiata Cedar of Lebanon Italian Cypress Juniperus virginiana glauca Blue Virginia Cedar Libocedrus decurrens Incense Cedar Pinus excelsa Bhotan Pine Taxus baccata (in variety) English Yew Taxus cuspidata (in variety) Japanese Yew Thuja orientalis Oriental Arborvitae Cephalotaxus drupacea Large-fruited Yew Cephalotaxus fortunet Fortune’s Yew Chamaecyparis ertcoides Compact White Cedar Chamaecyparis lawsoniana Lawson’s Cypress Chamaecyparis pistfera Pea-fruited Cypress E. Format Errects. The plants in this group are mostly trees of a compact, upright habit of growth, and are useful as “exclamation points” and for marking axes in formal gardens. Catalpa bunget Round-leaved Catalpa Cedrus deodara Deodar Cephalotaxus harringtoniana fastigtata Columnar Stem-fruited Yew Cercidiphyllum japonicum Kadsura Tree ae PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES Chamaecyparis lawsoniana Lawson’s Cypress Chamaecyparis thyoides White Cedar Cryptomeria japonica lobbt Lobb’s Cypress Cunninghamia lanceolata Chinese Cunninghamia Cupressus sempervirens fastigiata talian Cypress Hibiscus syriacus Rose of Sharon Ilex (in variety) Holly Juniperus chinensts Chinese Juniper Juniperus chinensis albo-variegata Silver-tipped Chinese Juniper Juniperus excelsa Greek Juniper BorpDER PLANTING. Juniperus virginiana glauca Blue Virginia Cedar Juniperus virginiana schottt Schott’s Red Cedar Laurocerasus carolintana Wild Orange Libocedrus decurrens Incense Cedar Ligustrum (in variety) Privet Quercus robur pedunculata English Oak Sciadopitys verticillata Umbrella Pine Taxodium distichum Bald Cypress Taxus (in variety) Yew Thuja orientalis pyramidalis 323 Pyramidal Oriental Arborvitae As most plants, when used in the south Atlantic states, double their northern height, the problem is to find low-growers. The following groups have thus been confined to low- growing plants (below five feet) and medium-growing plants (from five to ten feet). a. Low-growing deciduous shrubs: Amorpha tennessensis _ Tennessee False Indigo Azalea canescens Fragrant Mountain Azalea Azalea gandavensis Ghent Azalea Azalea mollis Japanese Azalea Azalea nudifiora Pinkster Flower Azalea pontica Pontic Azalea Azalea vaseyt Carolina Azalea Azalea viscosa Swamp Azalea Berberis aristata Purple-fruited Barberry Berberis canadensis Alleghany Barberry Berberis heteropoda Fragrant Barberry Berberis sieboldi Siebold’s Barberry Berberis wilsonae Wilson’s Barberry Callicarpa americana Beauty Fruit Callicarpa purpurea Beauty Fruit Caryopteris incana Blue Spirea Ceanothus hybridus Hybrid New Jersey Tea Comptonia asplenifolia Sweet Fern Coronilla emerus Scorpion Senna Corylopsis pauciflora Japanese Flowering Hazel 324 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Daphne genkwa Jasminum (in variety) ilac-flowered Daphne Jasmine Daphne mezereum Meratia praecox Caucasian Daphne Chinese Sweet Shrub Deutzia gracilis Pieris mariana Slender Deutzia Stagger Bush Elsholizia cristata Prunus triloba Dwarf Elsholtzia Flowering Plum Fothergilla gardent Robinia hispida Dwarf Alder Rose Acacia Fothergilla parviflora Rosa rugosa Southern Dwarf Alder Japanese Rose Hydrangea opuloides hortensia Rosmarinus officinalis Garden Hydrangea Rosemary Hypericum aureum Salvia greggi Large-flowered St. John’s Wort Mexican Salvia Hypericum calycinum Salvia greggt alba Aaron’s Beard White Mexican Salvia Hypericum glomeratum Spiraea bumalda anthony waterer Mountain St. John’s Wort Crimson Spirea Hypericum moserianum Stephanandra flexuosa Gold-flower Stephanandra Hypericum nudiflorum Symphoricarpos racemosus Naked-flowered St. John’s Wort Snowberry Hypericum prolificum Symphoricarpos vulgaris Shrubby St. John’s Wort Indian Currant Zenobta speciosa Zenobia Low-growing evergreen shrubs: Abelia floribunda Berberis tlictfolia Mexican Abelia Holly-leaved Barberry Ardisia crenulata rubra Berberis sargentiana Ardisia Evergreen Barberry Aucuba japonica Berberis stenophylla Japanese Laurel Small-leaved Barberry Aucuba japonica latimaculata Buxus japonica aurea Spotted Japanese Laurel Golden Japanese Box Azalea amoena Buxus suffruticosa Hardy Evergreen Azalea Dwarf Box Azalea indica Calluna vulgaris Indian Azalea Scotch Heather Azalea indica kaempferi Calluna vulgaris alba Orange-flowered Azalea White-flowered Heather Azalea obtusa Camellia japonica Hardy Indian Azalea Japonica Berberis buxtifolia Cleyera ochnacea Box-leaved Barberry leyera Berberis darwini Cotoneaster dammert Darwin’s Barberry Chinese Prostrate Cotoneaster PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES 325 Cotoneaster horizontalis Prostrate Cotoneaster Cotoneaster microphylla Small-leaved Cotoneaster Cotoneaster microphylla gracilis Dwarf Cotoneaster Cotoneaster rotundifolia Round-leaved Cotoneaster Cotoneaster rotundifolia lanata Box-leaved Cotoneaster Cotoneaster thymtfolia Thyme-leaved Cotoneaster Daphne cneorum Garland Flower Elaeagnus macrophylla Broad-leaved Oleaster | Gardenia florida Cape Jasmine [lex glabra Inkberry Letophyllum buxtfolium Sand Myrtle Leucothoé catesbaei Catesby’s Andromeda Mahonia aquifolium Oregon Grape Mahonia repens Creeping Mahonia Pieris floribunda Mt. Fetterbush Pieris japonica Japanese Fetterbush Rhododendron myrtifolium Myrtle-leaved Rhododendron Rhododendron punctatum Early-flowering Rhododendron Yucca filamentosa Adam’s Needle Yucca glauca Early-flowering Adam’s Needle 4 Yucca gloriosa Late-flowering Adam’s Needle Medium-growing deciduous shrubs: Cotoneaster acutifolia Pointed-leaved Cotoneaster Cotoneaster multiflora Spanish Cotoneaster Cotoneaster racemiflora Aronia melanocarpa Black Chokeberry Baccharis halimifolia Groundsel Bush Benzoin aestivale Spice Bush Cotoneaster Buddleia (in variety) Cytisus praecox Summer Lilac . Hybrid Broom Calycanthus floridus Cytisus scoparius Strawberry Shrub Scotch Broom Calycanthus occidentalis Deutzia lemoinet Western Sweet-scented Shrub Lemoine’s Deutzia Cassia corymbosa Deutzia rosea Argentina Senna Dwarf Pink Deutzia Chaenomeles sinensis Deutzia scabra Chinese Flowering Quince Single White Deutzia Cistus laurifolius Dirca palustris Laurel-leaved Rock Rose Leather-wood Clethra acuminata Elaeagnus longipes Mt. Pepper Bush Japanese Oleaster Clethra tomentosa Elaeagnus parviflora Woolly-leaved White Alder Small-leaved Silver Thorn Cornus paucinerovis Elaeagnus umbellata Square-twigged Dogwood Japanese Oleaster Corylus maxima purpurea Forsythia suspensa Purple-leaved Hazel Drooping Golden Bell 326 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Genista tinctoria Dyer’s Greenweed Halimodendron halodencron Salt Tree Hydrangea arborescens grandiflora Large-flowered Wild Hydrangea Hydrangea quercifolia Oak-leaved Hydrangea Itea virginica Virginian Willow Kerria japonica Globe-flower Lespedeza bicolor Shrubby Bush Clover Lespedeza sieboldi Siebold’s Desmodium Lonicera standishi Standish’s Bush Honeysuckle Myrica carolinensis Bayberry Medium-growing evergreen shrubs: Abelia floribunda Mexican Abelia Abelia grandiflora Hybrid Abelia Berberis hakeoides Chilean Barberry Berberis neuberti latifolia Holly-leaved Barberry Buxus sempervirens handwortht Handworth’s Tree Box Cotoneaster simonst Himalayan Rose Box Elaeagnus pungens Silver Thorn Elaeagnus pungens variegata Variegated Silver Thorn Gardenia jasminoides Cape Jasmine Gardenia jasminoides fortuniana Fortune’s Cape Jasmine Gardenia jasminoides veitcht Veitch’s Cape Jasmine Lrurus nobilis Bay Tree Ligustrum coriaceum Round-leaved Privet Mahonia aquifolium Oregon Grape Myrica cerifera Bayberry Myrica gale Bayberry Myricaria germanica German Tamarisk Neviusia alabamensts Snow Wreath Prunus triloba Flowering Plum Spiraea pruntfolia Bridal Wreath Spiraea vanhouttei Van Houtte’s Bridal Wreath Styrax americana American Storax Styrax japonica Japanese Storax Styrax obassia Broad-leaved Storax Mahonia fortunei Chinese Mahonia Mahonia japonica Japanese Mahonia Mahonia pinnata Southwestern Mahonia Michelia fuscata Banana Shrub Myrtus communis True Myrtle Nandina domestica Japanese Nandina Pitiosporum tobira Tobira Shrub Prunus laurocerasus schipkaensis Hardy English Laurel Raphiolepis indica Indian Hawthorn Rhododendron arbutifolium Dwarf Rhododendron Rhododendron catawhiense hybridum Hybrid Rhododendron Rhododendron ponticum Dwarf Rhododendron Skimmia japonica M Japanese Skimmia Viburnum suspensum Pink Snowball Viburnum tinus Laurestinus PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES 327 G. Frurr VaLuaBLe ror Its Cotour Errects. The following plants bear fruit which makes them useful for ornamental planting. The group comprises mainly those species which are better adapted to southern conditions. | Arbutus unedo Strawberry Tree Ardisia crenulata Scallop-leaved Ardisia Aucuba japonica Japanese Laurel Callicarpa americana Beauty Fruit Celastrus (in variety) Bitter-sweet Cleyera japonica Himalayan Cleyera Coriaria japonica Japanese Coriaria Cornus florida Flowering Dogwood Cotoneaster (in variety) Rose Box Cotoneaster francheti Franchet’s Rose Box Cotoneaster frigida Rose Box Cotoneaster horizontalis Prostrate Cotoneaster Cotoneaster microphylla Small-leaved Cotoneaster Cotoneaster simonsi Himalayan Rose Box Crataegus collina Round-fruited Thorn Crataegus vailae Vail’s Haw Dwospyros virginiana Persimmon Diospyros kaki Persimmon Elaeagnus multiflora umi Elaeagnus pungens maculata Yellow-spotted Oleaster Evonymus bungeanus Bunge’s Spindle Tree Ilex (in variety) Holly Lonicera (in variety) Bush Honeysuckle Magnolia grandiflora Magnolia Magnolia hypoleuca Chinese Purple Magnolia Magnolia tripetala Umbrella Tree Nandina domestica Japanese Nandina Pyracantha coccinea lalandt Evergreen Thorn Rosa (in variety) Native Rose Taxus baccata English Yew H. Specimen TREES AND Suruss. The following groups comprise only plants which are most successful when used singly or in small groups. a. Trees Albizzia julibrissin Mimosa Aleurites fordi China Wood-oil Tree Aphananthe aspera Chinese Hackberry Aralia spinosa Hercules Club Broussonetia papyrifera Paper Mulberry Carya aquatica Water Pecan THE COMPLETE GARDEN Carya myristicaeformis Nutmeg Hickory Carya pecan Pecan Catalpa bungei Round-leaved Catalpa Cedrela sinensis Chinese Cedrela Cephalotaxus fortunet Fortune’s Yew Chilopsis saligna Flowering Willow Citrus trifoliata Hardy Orange Cladrastris lutea Yellow-wood Cornus florida Flowering Dogwood Diosporos virginiana Persimmon Fagus americana. American Beech Fraxinus americana acuminata Silver-leaved White Ash Fraxinus pennsylvanica Red Ash Ginkgo biloba Maidenhair Tree Gleditsia japonica Japanese Honey Locust Gleditsia sinensis Chinese Honey Locust Gleditsia triacanthos Honey Locust Gymnocladus dioica Kentucky Coffee Tree Halesia carolina Silver Bell Hovenia dulcis __ Japanese Raisin Tree Juglans cinerea Butternut Juglans sieboldiana Japanese Walnut Koelreuteria paniculata Varnish Tree Liquidambar stryaciflua Sweet Gum Magnolia (in variety) Magnolia Magnolia acuminata Cucumber Tree Magnolia denudata Yulan Magnolia Magnolia grandiflora Magnolia Magnolia macrophylla Great-leaved Magnolia Magnolia soulangeana Soulange’s Magnolia Melia azedarach umbraculiformis Umbrella Tree Nyssa aquatica Cotton Gum Nyssa sylvatica Tupelo Oxydendrun arboreum Sourwood Parkinsonia aculeata Jerusalem Thorn Paulownta tomentosa Empress Tree Photinia arbutifolia Christmas Berry Photinia serrulata : Evergreen Photinia Populus alba pyramidalis Bolle’s Poplar Populus deltoides Southern Cottonwood Populus deltotdes monilifera Northern Cottonwood Prunus cerasifera pissardt Purple Plum Pterocarya fraxinifolia False Walnut Pyrus coronaria Wild Crab Quercus acuta Korean Oak Quercus falcata Spanish Oak Quercus laurifolia Laurel Oak Quercus muhlenbergt Yellow Chestnut Oak Quercus nigra Water Oak Quercus pagodaefolia Swamp Spanish Oak PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES Sapium pebiferum Chinese Tallow Tree Sophora japonica Japanese Pagoda Tree Ulmus montana pendula Sterculia platantfolia Japanese Varnish Tree Taxodiumy distichum Bald Copress Camperdown Weeping Elm b. Shrubs: Aucuba japonica Japanese Laurel 4ucuba japonica variegata Variegated Japanese Laurel Bambusa (in variety) Bamboo Buddleia (in variety) Summer Lilac Buxus (in variety) Boxwood Callicarpa purpurea Beauty Fruit Camellia japonica Japonica Caryopteris incana Blue Spirea Chilopsis linearis Flowering Willow Chionanthus virginica White Fringe Cornus capitata Himalayan Dogwood Corylus maxima purpurea Purple-leaved Hazel Exochorda grandiflora Pearl Bush Gardenia (in variety) Cape Jasmine Hydrangea quercifolia Oak-leaved Hydrangea I. PERENNIALS FOR GARDENS AND CuT FLOWERS. Ilex opaca American Holly Lagerstroemtia indica Crape Myrtle Nerium oleander Oleander Osmanthus aquifolium Fragrant Olive Prunus caroliniana Carolina Laurel Cherry Prunus ilictfolia Evergreen Cherry Prunus laurocerasus English Laurel Prunus lyont Islands Cherry Rhus cotinus Smoke Bush Staphylea pinnata European Bladder-nut Staphylea irifolia American Bladder-nut Stewartia pentagyna Alleghany Stewartia Styrax japonica Japanese Storax Viburnum tinus Laurestinus Vitex agnus-castus Chaste Tree 329 The following group of perennials includes several plants, such as the gladiolus, which are not hardy in the open ground in winter in the north. Most of the plants are the same sorts which are used elsewhere, but which have been selected after experience has shown their adaptability to the conditions of this territory. Aconitum (in variety) Monkshood Adonis vernalis Pheasant’s Eye Alstroemeria chilensis Chilean Lily Alyssum (in variety) Golden Tuft THE COMPLETE GARDEN Anchusa (in variety) Alkanet Anemone coronaria Poppy-flowered Anemone Anthemis tinctoria kelwayi Hardy Marguerite Antirrhinum majus Snapdragon Aquilegia (in variety) Columbine Argemone (in variety) Prickly Poppy Artemisia (in variety) Wormwood Asclepias tuberosa Butterfly Weed Baptisia (in variety) False Indigo Dahlia (in variety) Garden Dahlia Delphinium (in variety) Larkspur Echinops (in variety) Globe Thistle Eryngium amethystinum Amethyst Sea Holly Eupatorium (in variety) White Snakeroot Filipendula hexapetala Herbaceous Meadow-sweet Funkia (in variety) Plantain Lily Gaillardia (in variety) Blanket Flower Gladiolus (in variety) Sword Flower Gypsophila (in variety) Chalk Plant Helenium (in variety) Sneezeweed Helianthemum (in variety) Rock Rose Helianthus (in variety) Hardy Perennial Sun-flower Hesperis matronalis Sweet Rocket Heuchera sanguinea Coral-bells Incarvillea delevayi Hardy Gloxinea Iris (in variety) Iris Kniphofia uvaria Red-hot Poker Plant Lithospermum canescens Indian Paint Lobelia (in variety) Lobelia Lychnis coronaria Mullein Pink Oenothera (in variety) Evening Primrose Paeonta officinalis Old-fashioned Peony Paeonta suffruticosa Tree Peony Paeonta tenuifolia Fennel-leaved Peony Phlox (in variety) Garden Phlox Platycodon grandiflorum Balloon Flower Polemonium caeruleum American Jacob’s Ladder Polemonium reptans Greek Valerian Primula (in variety) Primrose Pyrethrum coccineum Painted Daisy Salvia (in variety) Sage Thalictrum (in variety) Meadow-rue Veronica (in variety) Speedwell Viola (in variety) Violet J. PERENNIALS FOR NATURALIZING IN WILD GarDENs. The plants in this group are common sorts which after trial have proven adaptable and useful for naturalizing in this territory. This group could be considerably enlarged; but the species named will fill most of the requirements of ordinary planting schemes. K. a. PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES 331 Actaea (in variety) Baneberry Adiantum pedatum Maidenhair Fern Allium moly Lily Leek Althaea officinalis Marsh Mallow Amorpha (in variety) False Indigo Arabis (in variety) Rock Cress Armeria (in variety) Sea Thrift Belamcanda chinensis Blackberry Lily Centranthus ruber Red Valerian Cimicifuga racemosa Snakeroot Dalibarda repens Barren Strawberry Dentaria diphylla Two-leaved Toothwort Erythronium americanum Adder’s tongue Fragaria (in variety) Wild Strawberry Frittilaria meleagris Guinea-hen Flower Galanthus nivalis Common Snowdrop Galax aphylla Galax Habenaria ciliaris Yellow-fringed Orchis Inatris pycnostachya Blazing Star Lilium (in variety) Lily Mertensia virginica Bluebell Monarda (in variety) Bergamot Narcissus (in variety) Daffodil and Narcissus Saxifraga (in variety) Stone-breaker Sedum (in variety) Stonecrop Shortia galacifolia Shortia Piants WuicH ARE ComMMONLY AND FREELY UseED IN THE SoutH But Are Not Harpy Fartuer Nortu. This group comprises trees and shrubs which are valuable and may be used in the south with safety, but which are not hardy in the north. Trees: Albizzia julibrissin Mimosa Aleurites fordi China Wood-oil Tree Cedrus atlantica Mt. Atlas Cedar Cedrus deodara Deodar Cedrus libant Cedar of Lebanon Libocedrus decurrens Incense Cedar Magnolia grandiflora Magnolia Melia azedarach, umbraculiformis Umbrella Tree Quercus acuta Korean Oak Quercus laurtfolia Laurel Oak Quercus nigra Water Oak Quercus phellos Willow Oak Sophora japonica Japanese Pagoda Tree ~ Sterculia platanifolia Japanese Varnish Tree 332 THE COMPLETE GARDEN b. Shrubs: Arbutus unedo Strawberry Tree Ardisia crenulata Scallop-leaved Ardisia Aucuba japonica Japanese Laurel Berberis hakeoides Chilean Barberry Cassia corymbosa Argentine Senna Chilopsis linearis Flowering Willow Cleyera japonica Himalayan Cleyera Gardenia florida Cape Jasmine Jasminum primulinum Ligustrum lucidum Shining-leaved Privet Ligustrum nepalense Nepaul Privet Ligustrum quthout Late-blooming Privet Ligustrum sinense Chinese Privet Michelia fuscata Banana Shrub Nandina domestica Japanese Nandina Pittosporum tobira Tobira Shrub Prunus caroliniana Carolina Laurel Cherry Prunus laurocerasus Jasmine English Laurel Lagerstroemta indica Thea sinensis Crape Myrtle Tea Plant Viburnum tinus Laurestinus L. VINES FOR THE SouTH. There is an extensive group of vines which can be used throughout the far south. Many of the vines so common to the north are extremely valuable because of their added growth during the longer growing season and their luxuriant foliage effects. Actinidia chinensis Chinese Silver Vine Antigonon leptopus Mountain Rose Berchemia racemosa Supple-Jack Berchemia scandens Supple-Jack Bignonia capreolata Cross Flower Bignontia chinensts Chinese Trumpet Creeper Bignonia hybrida Hybrid Trumpet Creeper Bignonia radicans Trumpet Vine Celastrus angulatus Chinese Bitter-sweet Clematis apitfolia Parsley-leaved Clematis Clematis crispa Purple Clematis Clematis flammula Sweet Clematis Clematis texensis Texas Clematis Clematis viorna Leather-flower Clematis virginiana Wild Clematis Ficus pumila_ Climbing Fig Gelsemium sempervirens Carolina Yellow Jasmine Gelsemium sempervirens flore plene Double Yellow Jasmine PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES 333 Hedera canariensis Algerian Ivy Hedera helix English Ivy Humulus lupulus Hop Vine Hydrangea petiolaris Climbing Hydrangea Jasminum officinale Jasmine Jasminum primulinum Jasmine Mentispermum canadense Common Moonseed Parthenocissus henryana Henry’s Ivy Passiflora caerulea Passion-flower Periploca graeca Silk Vine Polygonum baldschuanicum Knotweed Pueraria hirsuta Kudzu Vine Pyrostegia venusta Flame Flower Smilax lanceolata Florida Smilax Solanum jasminoides grandiflorum: Jerusalem Cherry Vine Trachelospermum jasminoides Confederate Jasmine CHAPTER XLVI PLANTS FOR USE ON THE OREGON AND WASHING- TON COASTAL PLAIN Tue planting districts in the northwest are very sharply defined. They include (1) the West Slope; that is, between the coast and the mountains, or west of the Cascade Range, and (2) eastern and central Oregon and eastern Washington; that is, all of the district sometimes spoken of as the Inland Empire where conditions show very marked changes. The following lists of plants apply only to (1), this being all of the territory west of the Cascade Range exclusive of the mountain slopes and known as. the Oregon and Washington Coastal Plain. No effort has been made to compile lists for (2) known as the Inland Em- pire. There the rainfall is very much lighter, more snow falls in the winter, and much hotter days prevail in the summer, although the nights are always cool. There is also another separate district spoken of as southern Oregon. The elevation here is from one thousand to eighteen hundred feet, with conditions much drier than through the Willamette Valley and all through western Washington. The factor in southern Oregon which appears to control plant growth is water, and if one has plenty of that coupled with a reasonable amount of good soil, normal growth can be developed. Even in western Washington and Oregon the days are fairly warm and the nights in most cases are cool. This condition makes itself felt very much in the growth of annual vines, because they do not like the cool nights. This entire western country appears to be the natural home for coniferous evergreens and for most of the broad-leaved evergreens. They do wonderfully well all through the northwest, west of the mountains. Portland has become known as the Rose City. It has found one particular thing, however, that is not proving a success. The camellia has been largely planted and is generally proving more or less disappoanting. The mountain laurel should probably be placed in the 334 (IIXXX Jeadeyps 999) = aanjzord sty} wor 9[qeziusooaI JOU Ss1ayi0 pue 4ynzApued ‘UOI}eUIeD [enuUL ‘UOUIdIs}Uad ‘uoseipdeus ‘Addod-dijn3 MoTah ‘adorjo1ay YIM Po][¥ St “staMOP Nd JO 9d1NOS & IOJ OU ST YOTYM ‘uspied sly], ‘sjenuue jo sn 94} Aq Ajaitua 9inqoid uspied JOMOY [euros IT9Y4 dojaaop O Jayaid yonul OymM ISOY} IIe 919 T TY] dLv1d (q-4-IIIX XX dnois ‘9Sz aded 99S) ‘SaI[I] AY JO Wao SuLIgMOY IYI 10} puNoIByoeq v se aAtas OF sv [Jam se aInjoId advospur] syi UaIYstiq 01 sary] jo suauttoads May v Jo asn aya Aq pajuadov aq Avur sautd oysnyy pue sautd yo}09g jo suuryd feusojur uy [| ALV Ig Istulgtate! ha 2u.3 ‘aay (A-AIXXX PUe V-AIXXX sdnoiz ‘19z pue ogz sa8ed 90g) ‘Sunuejdsues Jaqe Jouruins puosas—g ‘sunurjdsuesy Jaye JoWIUINS ISIY—V “YIOMIUILIF 991932] JY UO sUOTRIOC] AURUT 104 ayqenyea yt ayeur poriod SUTWIOO]q-3Uo] S}I pue sid -MOP 934M a}vIT[ap Jo s.uRpuNqe sz 3nq ‘saUIA SUIMOIS-pidel JSOUI ay} JO aU Ayuo OU SI psaMJOUY 9YT “Al ALVIg a Vv (q-AIXXX pue O-1IX sdnois ‘ogz puv $z1 sased 9ag) =‘34edv sayout usaiYysiIa sjuejd yiIM MOI a[sUIS & UT pajury]d (pjo stva4 01) adpay yoaeq uvadoiny padopaaap Apjdaj10d v sMoys Ose UONeIISN]]I sty], “splejap PeAnjoa yore suy JaMod -I9A0 0} paMore aq pjnoys aura ou yng {AAI UOISOg ay} ST sy[eM ATUOSeU UO asN IO} SOUTA Jsaq 9Y3 JO FUG) “AT ALVI OREGON AND WASHINGTON COASTAL PLAIN = 335 same class. It does not appear to do well and yet rhododendrons planted under exactly the same conditions thrive. This section of the country is still on the uncharted list so far as complete information covering the lists of plants that are adapted to this territory is concerned. In addition to those plants which are tabulated in the following lists there is a wide range of plants which can be selected from the main text of this book, practically all of which plants are adapted for use in this territory. LIST OF PLANTS FOR USE ON THE OREGON AND WASH- INGTON COASTAL PLAIN A. Hepces. This group is divided into deciduous and evergreen plants. It is noteworthy by reason of the fact that there are more broad-leaved plants than deciduous ones. This is not the case in other portions of the country, except possibly in the far south. a. Deciduous: Berberis thunbergt Ligustrum ibota Thunberg’s Japanese Barberry Japanese Privet Chaenomeles japonica Ligustrum ovalifolium Japanese Ousnice California Privet Crataegus oxycantha Ligustrum vulgare May Thorn European Privet Rosa rugosa Japanese Rose b. Evergreen: Aucuba japonica Picea excelsa Japanese Laurel Norway Spruce Chamaecyparts lawsoniana Prunus laurocerasus Lawson’s Cypress English Laurel Tlex aquifolium Prunus lusitanica English Holly Portugese Laurel Ilex crenata Pyracantha coccinea Japanese Holly Evergreen Thorn Mahonia aquifolium Ulex europeus Oregon Grape Gorse Viburnum tinus Laurestinus B. Pants ror Grounp Cover. Practically all of these ground- cover plants are evergreen in character; both those adapted to the open 336 THE COMPLETE GARDEN sun and those given for use in the shade. No attempt has been made to name the herbaceous perennials suitable for this purpose. a. Open sun: Arctostaphylos uva-urst Bearberry Iberis sempervirens Evergreen Candytuft Pachysandra terminalis Japanese Spurge Phlox subulata Moss Pink Saxifraga cordifolia Saxifrage b. Shade: Evonymus radicans Climbing Evonymus Gaultheria shallon Salal Hedera helix English Ivy C. PLants ror BorDER PLANTING. Lonicera japonica halliana Japanese Honeysuckle Pachysandra terminalis Japanese Spurge Vinca minor Periwinkle The shrubs and trees given in the group for refined lawn masses are confined largely to those sorts which are not generally available throughout the east for border plant- ing by reason of their soil and moisture requirements. The native collected plants are very similar to the same sort of material found throughout the northern central states. a. Refined lawn masses: Abelia grandiflora Hybrid Abelia Acer palmatum Japanese Maple Azalea hinodigiri Crimson Evergreen Azalea Azalea indica Indian Azalea Berberis buxifolia Box-leaved Barberry Berberis darwini Darwin’s Barberry Berberis ilicifolia Holly-leaved Barberry Calluna vulgaris Scotch Heather Cornus mas Cornelian Cherry Cornus paniculata Grey Dogwood Cotoneaster franchett Franchet’s Rose Box Cotoneaster simonst Himalayan Rose Box Deutzia gracilis Slender Deutzia Diervilla hybrida Hybrid Weigela Enkianthus perulatus Enkianthus Erica mediterranea Pink Heather Forsythia suspensa fortunet Fortune’s Golden Bell Lonicera maacki Late-blooming Honeysuckle OREGON AND WASHINGTON COASTAL PLAIN 337 Philadelphus lemoinet Lemoine’s Mock Orange Pieris floribunda Mountain Fetterbush Prunus triloba Flowering Plum b. Nattve and collected plants: Acer circinatum Vine Maple Calycanthus floridus Strawberry Shrub Clethra alnifolia Sweet Pepper Bush Cornus nuttalli Oregon Dogwood Cornus stolonifera Red Osier Cornel Elaeagnus angustifolia Russian Olive Holodiscus discolor ariaefolius Ocean Spray D. STREET AND AVENUE PLANTING. Spiraea vanhouttei Van Houtte’s Bridal Wreath Syringa vulgaris hybrida Hybrid Lilac Viburnum carlest Korean Viburnum Philadelphus lewist Native Mock Orange Rhus glabra Smooth Sumac Rosa blanda Meadow Rose Rosa lucida Glossy Rose Symphoricarpos racemosus Snowberry Symphoricarpos vulgaris Indian Currant Viburnum americanum American High-bush Cranberry This group with the excep- tion of the Oregon maple and the thornless locust is practically identi- cal with a similar group for any portion of the northern and eastern states. Acer macrophyllum Oregon Maple Acer platanoides Norway Maple Acer pseudoplatanus Sycamore Maple Aesculus hippocastanum rubicunda Red Flowering Horse-chestnut Fraxinus americana White Ash Platanus orientalis Oriental Plane Quercus coccinea Scarlet Oak Robinia pseudacacia bessoniana Thornless Locust Tilia euchlora Crimean Linden Ulmus americana American Elm FE. Prants ror Heavity SHapep Locations. This group con- tains only plants native to this portion of the country and some of the better known plants given in previous lists. Abies balsamea Balsam Fir Calycanthus floridus Strawberry Shrub Chaenomeles japonica Japanese Quince Gaultheria shallon Salal 338 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Lonicera morrowt Japanese Bush Honeysuckle Mahonia nervosa Dwarf Oregon Grape Philadelphus gordonianus Gordon’s Mock Orange Philadelphus lewisi Native Mock Orange Pinus strobus White Pine Sambucus canadensis American Elder Tsuga canadensis Canadian Hemlock F. Piants VALUABLE FOR AUTUMN CoLouRATION OF LEAVES. The plants in this group are selected for their use to furnish colour in the landscape in autumn and special attention is called to the vine maple and Oregon dogwood which are not available in other sections of the country. Acer circinatum Vine Maple Acer ginnala Siberian Maple Acer rubrum Red Maple Betula alba European White Birch Betula lenta Black Birch Berberis thunbergt Japanese Barberry Berberis wilsonae Wilson’s Barberry Cornus nuttalli Oregon Dogwood Evonymus alatus Cork-barked Burning Bush Ligustrum amurense Amoor River Privet Quercus coccinea Scarlet Oak Rhus glabra Smooth Sumac Stephanandra flexuosa Stephanandra Tilia vulgaris Common Linden G. Vines. This group of vines is very similar to the group previously given and shows the large number of species which are available in this territory. Ampelopsis engelmanni Englemann’s Ampelopsis Ampelopsis tricuspidata veitcht Boston Ivy Bignonia radicans Trumpet Vine Celastrus orbiculatus Japanese Bitter-sweet Clematis montana White Clematis Clematis montana rubra Red Clematis Clematis paniculata Japanese Clematis Evonymus radicans Climbing Evonymus Hedera helix English Ivy Jasminum nudiflorum Naked-flowered Jasmine Jasminum primulinum New Chinese Jasmine Lonicera japonica halliana Japanese Honeysuckle Lonicera periclymenum belgica Dutch Honeysuckle Polygonum baldschuanicum Knotweed H. Evercreens Most Usep. States. OREGON AND WASHINGTON COASTAL PLAIN Puerarta thunbergiana Kudzu Vine Wisteria sinensis Chinese Wisteria laurels. a. Conifers: Abies concolor White Fir Abies grandis Silver Fir Abies nobilis Fir Cedrus atlantica Mt. Atlas Cedar Cedrus deodora Deodar Cedrus libanit Cedar of Lebanon Chamaecyparis lawsoniana Lawson’s Cypress Chamaecyparis nootkatenstis Yellow Cedar Picea engelmannit Engelmann’s Spruce Picca sttchensis Sitka Spruce Pinus attenuata Knot-cone Pine Pinus contorta Oregon Pine Broad-leaved: Abelia grandiflora Hybrid Abelia Arbutus menziest Madrona Aucuba japonica Japanese Laurel Wisteria multijuga Japanese Wisteria Among the plants grouped here will be found many coniferous and broad-leaved evergreens which it is not safe to use as far north as this in any other portion of the United Among these, in particular, are the cedar of Lebanon, Lawson’s cypress, yellow cypress, hybrid abelia, and Portugese and English Pinus monticola Mountain White Pine Pinus nigra austriaca Austrian Pine Pinus ponderosa Bull Pine Pinus radiata Monterey Pine Pinus strobus White Pine Pinus sylvestris Scotch Pine Pseudotsuga douglast Douglas Fir Chamaecyparis (all species) Japanese Cypress Taxus baccata English Yew Taxus baccata fastigiata Irish Yew Taxus brevifolia Western Yew Tsuga heterophylla Western Hemlock Berberis buxifolia Box-leaved Barberry Berberis ilicifolia Holly-leaved Barberry Berberis stenophylla Small-leaved Barberry 340 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Cotoneaster franchett Franchet’s Rose Box Cotoneaster horizontalts Prostrate Cotoneaster Cotoneaster microphylla Small-leaved Cotoneaster Tlex aquifolium English Holly Tlex crenata Japanese Holly Ligustrum japonicum Evergreen Privet Osmanthus aquifolium Fragrant Olive Photinia glabra Japanese Photinia Pieris floribunda Mountain Fetterbush Prunus laurocerasus English Laurel Prunus lusitanica Portuguese Laurel Rhododendron catawbiense hybridum Hybrid Rhododendron Lig 4 a el Ve, BIBLIOGRAPHY Tue following is a compilation of the more important practical books on various subjects relating to landscape plantings and of interest to the gar- dener and to the owner of private estates. An effort has been made to in- clude a reference list of some of the more important articles which have appeared from time to time in different magazines, as discussions on these sub- jects. An attempt has been made in compiling this list of references not to cover the entire field of literature written on these subjects, but to include only a sufficient number of books of real value from which information can be readily obtained. The author does not wish to imply that there are not many other interest- ing publications pertaining to this subject matter. It is imperative, however, that this list should not become overburdened, and yet, if references have been omitted which should have been included, any suggestions or corrections will be welcome. BOOKS Botany Manual of the Flora of the Northern States and Canada, by N. L. Britton. Field, Forest and Garden Botany, by Asa Gray. Official Catalog of Plant Names, by American Joint Committee on Horticultural Nomenclature. Bulbs Daffodils, by Joseph Jacob. The Bulb Book, by John Weathers. Bulb Culture, by Henderson. Bulb Garden, by Grace Tabor. The Book of Bulbs, by S. Arnott. Bulbs and Tuberous-Rooted Plants, by C. L. Allen. Daffodils, Narcissus, and How to Grow Them, by M. Kirby. Tulips, by Joseph Jacob. Evergreens and Rhododendrons Evergreens and How to Grow Them, by C. L. Harrison. The Rhododendron and American Plants, by E. S. Rand, Jr. Handy Book of Ornamental Conifers and Rhododendrons, by H. Fraser. Hedges and Evergreens, by J. A. Warder. Rhododendrons and Azaleas, by Wm. Watson. 343 344 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Flower Gardens (Perennials and Annuals) The Book of Perennials, by H. H. Saylor. The Book of Annuals, by H. H. Saylor. Color Schemes in the Flower Garden, by Gertrude Jekyll. The Flower Garden, by Ida Bennett. The American Flower Garden, by Neltje Blanchan. The English Flower Garden, by W. Robinson. Flower Gardening, by H. S. Adams. Familiar Flowers of Field and Garden, by F. S. Matthews. Color in My Garden, by Louise B. Wilder. Irises, by W. R. Dykes. The Book of the Peony, by Mrs. Edward Harding. Our Garden Flowers, by Harriet L. Keeler. The Garden, Month by Month, by Mabel Sedgwick. Flower Gardens—A Selected List of Books, The New York Public Library (January, 1915). The Garden Blue Book, by L. B. Holland. Popular Garden Flowers, by Walter Page Wright. Garden Flowers of Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter, by Ellen E. Shaw, edited by Leonard Barron. Forestry Forest Mensuration, by H. S. Graves. Foresters’ Manual, by E. T. Seton. Principles of American Forestry, by S. B. Green. Practical Forestry, by John Gifford. Practical Forestry, by Andrew S. Fuller. Principles of Handling Woodlands, by H. S. Graves. A List of Books on Trees and Forestry, Boston Public Library, 1899. Garden Architecture The Practical Book of Garden Architecture, by Phoebe W. Humphrey. The Book of Garden Furniture, by Charles Thonger. Garden Ornaments, by Gertrude Jekyll. Italian Gardens, by Inigo Triggs. Herb Gardens The Herb Garden, by Frances A. Bardwell. The Book of the Scented Garden, by F. W. Burbridge. Japanese Gardens The Art of Landscape Gardening in Japan, by Josiah Conder. Landscape Gardening in Japan, by Josiah Conder. The Flowers and Gardens of Japan, by Florence Du Cane. ayia Flower Arrangement Applied to Western Needs, by Mary verill. BIBLIOGRAPHY 345 Lawns Lawns and How to Make Them, by Leonard Barron. Making a Lawn, by Luke J. Doogue. Turf for Golf Courses, by Piper and Oakley. Miscellaneous The New Gardening, by Walter P. Wright. Catalog of the Codman Collection of Books on Landscape Gardening, Boston Public Library, 1899. The Landscape Beautiful, by F. A. Waugh. Practical Landscape Gardening, by Robert B. Cridland. Gardening for Beginners, by E. T. Cook. Farm and Garden Rule Book, by L. H. Bailey. Manual of Gardening, by L. H. Bailey. Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture, by L. H. Bailey. Gardeners’ Dictionary, by G. W. Johnson. The Book of Topiary, by C. H. Curtis and W. Gibson. My Growing Garden, by J. Horace MacFarland. Book of Garden Plans, by Stephen F. Hamblin. Native Plants Wild Flowers of New England, by Lincoln. Ferns and How to Grow Them, by G. A. Woolson. Ferns and Their Haunts, by W. N. Clute. The Book of Choice Ferns, by G. Schneider. An Illustrated Flora, by N. L. Britton and Addison Brown. Our Northern Shrubs, by Harriet L. Keeler. Silva of North America, by C. S. Sargent. Field Book of American Trees and Shrubs, by F. S. Mathews. Pennsylvania Trees, by J. S. Illick. Plant Life of Alabama, by Charles Mohr. Tree Book, by Julia E. Rogers. Trees and Shrubs of Northeastern America, by C. S. Newhall. Wild Flowers of the North American Mountains, by Julia W. Henshaw. Key to Trees of Northeastern United States and Canada, by Collin and Preston. A Guide to the Wild Flowers, by Alice Lounsberry. Ornamental Trees and Shrubs Aristocrats of the Garden, by E. H. Wilson. Trees and Shrubs, by C. S. Sargent. Ornamental Shrubs of the United States, by A. G. Apgar. Garden Trees and Shrubs, by W. P. Wright. Shade Trees in Towns and Cities, by William Solataroff. aia Shrubs for Garden, Lawn, and Park Planting, by L. D. avis. 346 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Plant Diseases Fungus Diseases of Plants, by B. M. Duggar. Injurious Insects of the Farm and Garden, by Mrs. Mary Treat. Spraying of Plants, by E. G. Lodeman. Insects and Insecticides, by C. M. Weed. Propagation of Plants Plant Propagation, by Alfred C. Hottes. Plant Culture, by George W. Oliver. Nursery Book, by L. H. Bailey. Plant Breeding, by L. H. Bailey. Plant Physiology, With Special Reference to Plant Production, by B. M. Duggar. Plant Propagation, by M. G. Kains. Art of Propagation, by J. Jenkins. Pruning Pruning Manual, by L. H. Bailey. Principles and Practice of Pruning, by M. G. Kains. Rock Gardens Alpine Flowers and Rock Gardens, by Walter P. Wright. Alpine Flowers for Gardens, Rock, Wall, Marsh Plants and Mountain Shrubs, by W. Robinson. Making a Rock Garden, by H. L. Adams. The Small Rock Garden, by F. H. Jenkins. My Rock Garden, by R. J. Farrer. Roses Roses, by H. R. Darlington. Roses, Their History, Development, and Cultivation, by J. H. Pemberton, The Rose, by H. B. Ellwanger. Parsons, On the Rose, by S. B. Parsons. The Practical Book of Outdoor Rose Growing, by Geo. C. Thomas, Jr. A Book about Roses, by S. Reynolds Hole. Roses and Rose Gardens, by W. P. Wright. Everblooming Roses for the Outdoor Garden of the Amateur, by G. T. Drennan. Street Trees Field Book for Street Tree Mapping, by William Solataroff. Trees in Lawn, Street, and Park, by B. E. Fernow. BIBLIOGRAPHY 347 Trees and Shrubs (Winter Characters and Form) New England Trees in Winter, by Blakeslee and Jarvis. Handbook of Trees of the Northern States and Canada, by Romeym B. Hough. Vines Climbing Plants, by W. Watson. Book of Climbing Plants, by S. Arnott. Vines and How to Grow Them, by William McCollum. A Concise Handbook of Climbers, Twiners, and Wall Shrubs, by H. P. Fitzgerald. Vines of Northeastern America, by C. S. Newhall. Wall Gardens Wall and Water Gardens, by Gertrude Jekyll. Water Gardens The Book of Water Gardening, by Peter Bisset. Rock and Water Gardens, by Charles Thonger. Making a Water Garden, by William Tricker. Water Lilies and Aquatics, by Peter Henderson. Water Lilies and How to Grow Them, by Conrad and Hus. Winter Protection Hedges, Shelters, Windbreaks, and Stone Fences, by E. P. Powell. ARTICLES PRUNING (ORNAMENTAL FLOWERING TREES, SHRUBS, VINES, AND PERENNIALS) TITLE OF ARTICLE AUTHOR MAGAZINE REFERENCE DATE Winter Pruning and Rockwell American Homes and = Jan., 1913 Spraying Gardens Street Trees, Their A.D.Taylor Cornell Exper. Station Bull. 256 Care and Preserva- tion Pruning: A Fitting Kains Garden Magazine Dec., 1916 Winter Activity Pruning Shrubs and _ Barnes Suburban Life Apr., 1911 Roses Pruning Table Suburban Life Mar., 1914 Suggestions for Shrub Rose Suburban Life Dec., 1912 Trimming in Win- ter 348 TITLE OF ARTICLE Right Way to Trim a Tree Pruning AUTHOR Solataroff THE COMPLETE GARDEN MAGAZINE REFERENCE Suburban Life Missouri Botanical Garden Bulletin Vol. VI, No. 9 DATE _ Apr., 1909 Nov., 1918 TRANSPLANTING TREES, SHRUBS, VINES, AND PERENNIALS How to Succeed with Fall Planting Fall Planting Spring Flowers Experiences in Mid- summer Transplant- for ing Planting and Shaping Young Trees Planting Trees by Machine Planting the Perennial Border Fall Heeling-in for Spring Planting Transplanting Big Trees Transplanting Out of Season September Transplant- ing Perennials for Fall Planting How to Plant Trees and Shrubs Making a Success of Tree Planting Transplanting Large Trees Planting and Seeding Seasons Lurie Pendleton Whitten Weed Tuthill Meller johnson Platt McLaughlin Taylor Garden Magazine Garden Magazine Garden Magazine Garden Magazine Scientific American House Beautiful Garden Magazine Garden Magazine Garden Magazine House Beautiful Countryside Maga- zine Suburban Life Suburban Life Countryside Maga- zine Landscape Archi- tecture Garden Magazine MAINTENANCE OF PLANTING AND LAWNS Green Grass in Dry Weather Rockwell Country Life Oct., 1918 Oct., 1918 July, 1918 Apr., 1915 Nov., 1916 Aug., 1916 Oct., 1916 Feb., 1917 July, 1917 Sept., 1917 Dec., 1914 Mar., 1908 Sept., 1914 Nov., 1915 Apr., 1919 Mar., 192¢ Aug., 1916 TITLE OF ARTICLE Getting the Lawn into Shape and Keeping it so Summer Care of the Lawn BIBLIOGRAPHY AUTHOR Oldcastle Bourne MAGAZINE REFERENCE Suburban Life Suburban Life WINTER PROTECTION AND MULCHING Putting on the Gar- Wm.C. McCollum House and Garden den’s Winter Clothes To Protect Flowers From Frost Putting the Garden into Its Winter Quarters Winter Protection Winter Protection in the Garden Timely Fall Work in the Border Don’t Hurry Winter Protection of Roses Fall Planting of Spring Bulbs Planting Bulbs for Spring Bloom Naturalizing Spring- Flowering Bulbs Planting Tables for Bulbs Indoors and Outdoors Sinclair Farrington Meller Barnes Rexford BULBS Mrs. Strang Weed All Summer Bulb Garden Farring- ton Summer-blooming Bulbs Rockwell for Spring Planting The Fall Budget and Its Springtime Yield Bulbs and Tuberous Plants Mrs. Strang Draftsman Countryside Maga- zine Garden Magazine Suburban Life Suburban Life Garden Magazine Craftsman Garden Magazine House Beautiful Countryside Maga- zine Countryside Maga- zine Countryside Maga- zine House and Garden Missouri Botanical Garden Bulletin Vol. IV. No. 9 349 DATE Apr., 1912 June, 1908 Dec., 1918 Dec., 1914 Oct., 1916 Nov., 1917 Nov., 1910 Nov., 1911 Oct., 1918 Oct., 1915 Oct., 1915 Oct., 1916 Sept., 1916 Apr., 1916 Apr., 1915 Oct., 1918 Sept., 1916 350 THE COMPLETE GARDEN ARTICLES— MISCELLANEOUS TITLE OF ARTICLE The Best Hardy Coni- fers Evergreens for the Home Grounds Evergreens for the Home Landscape The Uses, Choice, and Planting of Ever- greens Native Plants Suitable for the Gardens of Missouri and Ad joining States Making an Old-Fash- ioned Garden The Perennial or Old- Fashioned Garden Planning Features for Garden Special Ef- fects The Garden of Wild Flowers Gardens Odour Hardy Perennials for Landscape Use One Hundred Native Perennials for the Wild Garden Roses and How to Grow Them Have We Lost Some- thing in Roses? Hardy Shrubs That Can Be Forced Finding the Shrub to Fit the Place Dual Purpose Shrubs and Trees Shrubs with Brightly Coloured Twigs of Sweet AUTHOR Wilson Wild Allen Mrs. Strang Mrs. Strang Wild Hamblin Mrs. Strang Burke Richie Taylor Rockwell Barron Gibson Richie Farrington Miller MAGAZINE REFERENCE Garden Magazine House and Garden House and Garden House and Garden Missouri Botanical _ Garden Bulletin House and Garden House and Garden Garden Magazine House and Garden House and Garden Garden Magazine Garden Magazine House and Garden Country Life Gardener’s Chron- icle of America Garden Magazine Country Life Country Life DATE Dec., 1915 Sept., 1914 Sept., I9I5 1918 Vol. VIII July, 1917 Oct., 1914 Feb., 1915 Sept., 1918 Mar., 1915 Feb., 1915 May, 1915 April, 1913 June, 1914 Oct., 1919 Apr., 1915 Mar., 1920 Dec., 1915 (AXXYX Jeideys aag) = "Joao [eAN}D9IYIIe 91vq ISIMIOYIO puL AAvIY JY} DAIT[II 0} apyurMtiod yim Pet[y saxoq MOpUIM UII Jayi930} pasn BIIOISIM BUIQUIT[D SNOIOSIA 3y} Jo uo eUIguIODS sulseayd We TAT aLVIg. (V-AXXX dnoid ‘hz aged gag) ‘amoy Aue jo ssaudatqovIqv 9} OF Ajavois sppe yoy Iapo JOMOY puL osvipo} Xoq MOPUIM v 9YCU sviunjed pur apyurmtiod ‘AAT ystpsuay ‘spjostivu ‘sumMQingseN, [LAT FLV Td (V-IAXXX dnoi3 ‘oZz a8ed 39S) ‘sdijn3 uIMIeq jo sodA} [[e2 942 YIIM paT]y st uap -1e3 SIy], “uoseas SUIMOIS 9yi JO yJUOUT 13aYyI0 Aue 3 uopied dyi jo jenba 94} SI ‘INO[OD jo sasseul sonpoid fon! posuriie Aq[njares sdijn3 jo sadA} pouyal YIM pel[y uapies JaMOY 9Y Avy pue judy jo syjyuow ayy suling TTAT F1Vv1g agacias ((-IAXXX dnoid ‘cLz aded 90g) ‘svaie pjay pue pur[poom ay} 0} 10 varie UML] pauyal oy3 0} Joya Jyesat adepe ues queyd styy ‘uMey] ay uodn wooyq 03 sutsaq snd019 ayi ButIds Jo yONO} IsIy 9YyI YAY “XT ILVIgG TITLE OF ARTICLE Trees and Shrubs Worth Planting for Their Conspicuously Ornamental Fruits Ornamental Flowering Trees The Peril of Our Shade Trees Some Treesand Shrubs for Trying Sites BIBLIOGRAPHY AUTHOR Wilson Porter MAGAZINE REFERENCE Garden Magazine Gardener’s Chron- icle of America Country Life Garden Magazine 351 DATE Oct., 1915 Apr., May, June, July, 1920 Mar., 1916 Mar., 1914 Tata. a Cony, i bad: : ; Hh pas ¥) Tos i \ ae Pacis y me GLOSSARY Tue author has attempted in this glossary to compile a set of terms or words commonly used in landscape literature pertaining to general planting design. Landscape architecture is one of the younger professions. It has no distinct vocabulary so recognized by the dictionary of to-day. Such words as establish, naturalize, open allee, pleached allee, puddle, and leggy as applied to the language of this profession require a definition other than those commonly given to such words. The definitions here given are those which are generally accepted by practicing landscape architects. No attempt has been made to define a large group of other words which are used in the general field of landscape construction work as differentiated from planting design and its execution. Accent Plant: A plant used to give prominence to its location either because of peculiarly interesting habit of growth, characteristics of fruit or of flowers or foliage. Acclimatize: v. To make accustomed to a climate to which a plant is not native. Acid Soil: A soil containing an excess of uncombined acids. Any acid soil is objectionable (even when only very slightly acid) to most plants, except ericaceous plants. Changes blue litmus paper to red. Agricultural Lime: An unstandardized product from the unburned cores of lime kilns, mixed with other better material but rarely having a better value than fine pulverized limestone. Air-slaked Lime: Is the compound formed by the action of carbon dioxide, from the air, on hydrated lime. Its formula is (Ca C O), or the same as pure lime- stone. | Alkaline Soil: A soil containing an excess of uncombined alkali, lime, magnesia, sodium carbonate, etc. A good soil should be very slightly alkaline. Changes red litmus paper to blue. 355 356 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Allee, open: A way framed on either side by symmetrical rows of closely planted trees or tall shrubs (of a height not less than twice the width between rows), and so maintained that either side presents a continuous vertical wall of close-growing foliage. Allee, pleached: A way framed on either side by symmetrical rows of closely planted trees or shrubs, so maintained that the branches of the continuous walls of close-growing foliage arch and interweave across the top of the way, at a height of not less than seven or eight feet. Annuals: Plants which develop from seeds each year, mature, produce ripened seed, and die during the same growing season. Alpine Plants: Plants adapted to living in exposed situations but requiring a constant seepage of cool water through the soil surrounding their roots. Alpine plants are not drought-resisting. Anthracnose: A plant disease caused by a parasitic fungus of one definite class (melanconzae). Arborescent Shrubs: Those plants on the borderline between shrubs and trees. Ball: In transplanting work it is the mass of earth containing the roots of a plant, and it is transplanted with the plant to its new location. Ball-and-Burlap: The process of covering a ball of earth, containing the roots of a plant, with burlap or other bagging so that the plant may be safely transported a considerable distance without losing the earth from about its roots, Bedding Plants: Herbaceous plants selected for the purpose of producing a solid ground cover of flowers or foliage as a part of a definite design in a refined garden or lawn development. Bell-glass: A bell-shaped glass used to cover small plants growing in the open, as a protection from wind and rain and frequent temperature changes. GLOSSARY 207 Biennials: Plants which require two years to produce ripened seed. They form buds at the crown of the root at the end of the first season. The next season they bear ripened seed, and the plants die. Blight: A diseased condition caused by a parasitic fungus. Bog Garden: A garden composed largely of bog-loving plants. A garden ona rela- tively low area consisting of a continuously wet, peaty soil, but not containing stagnant water. Budding: The insertion of a bud from one plant (together with some live sur- rounding tissue) beneath the bark‘of another plant so that the cambium layers join and grow together, Bulb: A subterranean leaf-bud consisting usually of several fleshy scales. Calcium Oxide: A compound resulting from the burning of limestone containing, when pure, 40 parts of calcium and 16 parts of oxygen by weight. It is also known as fresh burned or quicklime. Callus: The new tissue which forms over a wound as over the end of a cutting; a protective measure provided in nature; but not always an indication that the cutting will produce roots. ' Cambium, or cambium layer: The soft, very thin tissue lying between the bark and the woody tissue. This is the tissue from which new wood originates and is the only truly live portion of the stem ofa plant. Plant food rises from roots to leaves through the cells on the inner half of the cambium layer and returns from the leaves downward as available plant food through cells on the outer half of the cambium layer. Canker: An area attacked by a parasitic fungus. Carpet bedding: A design of plants which form a close mat on the surface of the ground and respond to severe cutting back, as distinguished from ground- cover plants which may stand several inches above the ground. 358 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Clay: Earthy material (occurring in nature), whose chief property is plasticity when wet. The size of particles varies from I-5000 to 1I-25000 of an inch in diameter. Bakes and cracks freely when dried out. Clay Loam: A loam soil containing a predominance of clay. Clump: A cluster of roots or bulbs or tubers capable of being divided into separate plants or of producing one large mass of plants resembling a single plant. Collected Stock: Plants which have been taken from their native habitat and shipped direct from the collecting ground to the new location. These require more care and are subject to greater loss than nursery-grown stock. Cold Frame: An unheated, outdoor, covered plant house, generally covered with glazed sash; but sometimes prepared paper or cloth is used. No ma- nure is used in the soil at bottom of acold frame. Cold frames are most frequently used as a transition space in the hardening-off process. Compost: A soil made by mixing loam with decaying organic compounds and some- times inorganic fertilizers, allowing nitrification and oxidation to proceed; but preventing plant growth until a very rich soil is produced. Congested: A term applied in planting to a situation having impure air or restricted feeding area for roots, or both. Conifer: A plant which bears its seeds in acone. With the exception of the ginkgo, the larches, and the bald cypress practically all conifers are evergreen needle-bearing plants, as the pine, spruce, and fir. (See Evergreen.) Cover Crop: A herbaceous crop sown to cover the ground temporarily and thus protect it from atmospheric and water action; generally plowed under for its fertilizing value. GLOSSARY 359 Creeping Plants: Those plants whose stems run along either on or under the ground and root at intervals. Crevice Plants: Those plants with tenacious root systems adapted for use in the narrow and congested soil areas between flagstones in a walk or between stones in a dry wall. Cross Fertilization: The conveyance of pollen from one flower to another. Crown, of bulbs or other herbaceous plants: The persistent portion of the stem which bears the buds which form the next stem. Cuttings: Detached leaf buds or portions of branches which are capable under favourable circumstances of forming new plants when placed in a moist, warm soil, Deciduous: Plants that drop their leaves each fall and produce a complete new set of leaves each spring. Dehorn: To remove a portion of the top of a plant, leaving only short portions of the main branches. Design Bedding: A design of herbaceous plants used for the purpose of producing a definite effect from their flowers and not their foliage, and allowed to continue their normal growth without being cut back. Dibble: A pointed implement of wood or metal used to make holes in the ground, especially for plants, seeds, or bulbs. Dividing: The propagation of plants by separating the roots; more especially the dividing of bulbous and tuberous plants into several plants. Dormant: A resting condition of plants when growth is not active and the flow of sap 1s stopped. 360 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Double Flowers: Commonly the result of the substitution of brightly coloured petals for stamens or pistils. A perfect double flower has no stamens or pistils, hence is sterile and the plant must be propagated by cuttings. Drainage for plants: The carrying away of excess water from the soil in which plants are placed. This drainage promotes a deep root system, which aids the plant in surviving periods of drought; it also prevents a soil from becoming water-soaked and “drowning” the root system, especially of newly transplanted stock. Dry Wall: A wall constructed of individual stones with loam filling the crevices between them. Such a wall may be used either as a retaining wall to support an embankment of earth or against an earth slope to pre- vent unnecessary erosion. Ericaceous: A family of plants which require for their normal growth an acid soil (a soil free from lime or magnesium). Establish: The act of transplanting any plant to a new location and causing root growth which makes the plant as capable in its new location as in its old location, of continuing normal growth. Evergreen: Plants with persistent leaves. These plants drop but a small portion of the old leaves each year, and may be conifers, broad-leaved ever- greens, or opposite-leaved evergreens. Excurrent: Having a main stem extending up through the top of the plant. Fertilizer: Plant food, either directly available, or which upon nitrification will be available for use by the plant. Many fertilizers (such as sheep manure and dried blood) contain plant food in an immediately soluble form for plant requirements or in a form (such as bone meal and lime rock) which does not become available until after a period of chemical | reaction. GLOSSARY 361 Field-grown Stock: Nursery-grown stock which is grown in the field, as distinguished from plants grown in pots, in cold frames, or under other especially favour- able and artificial conditions, which tend to make better looking specimens, but usually less hardy plants. Thus, field-grown plants are often more desirable, even though not nearly as good looking specimens. Fillers: Short-lived or rapidly growing plants temporarily planted between permanent plants as in orchards or in mass plantings. Fire blight: A bacterial disease. Flat: A shallow box, averaging in depth from three to four inches, to receive soil in which to plant seeds, or to start cuttings. Flowering on new wood: A term used in referring to plants which bear flowers on wood grown that same season. Hence they are mostly late-summer and fall- flowering plants and should be pruned in late winter or early spring be- fore growth begins. Flowering on old wood: A term used in referring to plants which bear flowers on wood formed the previous year, hence mostly spring-flowering plants. They should always be pruned immediately after the period of bloom is completed. (Never prune in early spring.) Force: v. To stimulate growth by artificial means such as heat, light, and fertilizers. Usually adopted for the purpose of obtaining fruits or flowers of unusual size or quantity either in season or out of season. Forcing: The acceleration of growth by gradually increasing temperature, water supply, and quickly available plant food such as sodium nitrate. Frame: See Cold frame or Hot-bed. Fresh-burned Lime: See calcium oxide. 362 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Friable: Easily crumbled, mellow, allowing free and unobstructed root develop- ment. A term used in describing a condition of soil. Frozen Ball: A solidly frozen ball of earth containing a major part of the root sys- tem of a plant (usually a tree) which is being transplanted. Ball of earth must be frozen sufficiently solid so that it will not split during normal transplanting operations. Fungus: A flowerless plant not containing chlorophyll and generally parasitic upon another living plant. Furrow: A shallow trench made by or as by a plow. Gall: An abnormal swelling or excrescence caused by gall flies. Gas Lime: Is a mixture of slaked lime or calcium hydrate, and carbonate of lime, together with sulphites and sulphides of lime. These last are injurious to young plant life until they have been exposed to the air for some time. Gas lime usually contains 40 per cent. of calcium oxide and sometimes a small percentage of nitrogen. Girdle: n. An incision or several incisions which sever the cambium layer of a woody plant to the woody tissue and for the whole circumference of the stem. It may be a circular cut, a spiral cut, or may consist of sev- eral cuts more or less widely separated, but whose horizontal projection would form a closed circle. v. To kill a tree by girdling it. Ground Cover: Small plants or vines, usually growing not more than a foot high, which will spread out and conceal the surface of the ground from view. Grubbing: Clipping and digging out roots, stumps, etc. Turning over and breaking up the sod with a grub hoe or mattock. Guying Trees: Placing wires or stays on trees or portions of trees to prevent them being blown over or broken by the wind; more especially the placing GLOSSARY 363 of three or more guys on trees recently transplanted to hold them firmly in place until an adequate root system has been established. and to prevent swaying of the trees and loosening of root system. Hammock Land: Land, mostly in the southern part of Florida, covered with luxuriant growth of trees (hardwoods, or cabbage palms and palmettos). The soil is rich in fertilizer value. Harden-off: To so care for plants previously grown in a greenhouse that they will be able to withstand normal outdoor exposures. It is customary to move such plants from the greenhouse to cold frames. Heave-out: The partial lifting of plants out of the soil by frost action. This is apt to occur when ground previously deeply frozen and thawed out on top is again frozen. The layer of frozen soil beneath, which has not yet thawed out, forms an unyielding barrier and the expansion of the soil in freezing is then wholly upward. ‘The stresses thus caused are enormous and plants are lifted sometimes almost wholly out of the ground. Hedge: A row composed of living plants usually in a straight line and planted closely to each other (See Plate XV, Page 95). Hedgerow: A hedge or fence of bushes or shrubs either in the form of a definite hedge or of an irregular border-planting, of varying width and often- times varying types of plants. Heeling-in: Placing plants with roots covered with soil pressed down with the heel or toe to preserve them in a dormant condition for short periods until they can be permanently planted. Usually a deep furrow is dug, the roots placed close together in the furrow, with stems in a slanting posi- tion, and roots then covered with soil. The soil used in this covering is taken from the furrow of the next row (See Plate VI, Page 34). Herb: A plant with no persistent stem above ground. Horticultural Variety: Said of certain varieties of plants developed because of some desirable characteristic. They are not necessarily hybrids, but usually are arti- 364 THE COMPLETE GARDEN ficially hybridized, then propagated by grafts, buds, cuttings, etc., to preserve in the new plant the desirable characteristics of the parent, which might be lost if grown from seed. Host Plant: A living plant attacked by a parasitic fungus or supporting a parasitic plant. Hotbed: A bed of earth enclosed in a glass-covered frame and heated by means of fermenting manure placed well below the surface of the soil in the hotbed. Humus: Vegetable mould or partly decayed organic matter in the soil. Hybrid: A cross between two species of the same genus or two varieties of the same species. Hybrid Tea: A section of the Hybrid Perpetual group crossed back upon the tea-scented China rose. They have a lighter green and less wrinkled foliage than the pure Hybrid Perpetual. ‘They are generally less hardy but more continuous in bloom than Hybrid Perpetuals, sometimes blooming from June until frost. Hybrid Perpetual: Or Hybrid Remontant roses have a stiff upright growth, dull wrinkled foliage, and large flat flowers generally of dark colours. They embrace generally the characteristics of the Provence, Damask, French, and Chinese groups. They mostly have only one season of bloom, in June, but sometimes give scattered bloom later on in the season. Hybridization: Cross fertilization between plants of different varieties or species and sometimes of different genera. Hydrated Lime: The compound formed by the action of water or steam on fresh burned lime. Its good physical condition makes even distribution pos- sible, and thus permits maximum effectiveness to be obtained. Indigenous: _ Native and original to the country in which the plant is growing. GLOSSARY 365 Land Plaster: Is a sulphate of calcium compound and its tendency is to make a soil sour. It should not be considered as a means of correcting soil acidity. Larva: The immature wingless, worm-like form in which insects (which undergo metamorphosis) have their first stage or stages before acquiring wings. Leaching: In soils; the loss, through solution in drainage water, of lime or plant food. Leader: The terminal leaf bud which will often form the main stalk of the plant; not only this bud, but also the previous year’s growth is in- cluded by the term. Leaf Curl: In peaches is a condition caused by too rapid cell multiplication in re- sponse to the stimulus caused by a parasitic fungus. In snowball bushes the stimulus is caused by aphids. Leaf Mould: Decayed leaves combined with other organic matter found on a forest floor. Leggy: A term used to describe a plant (usually a shrub) on which old growth has developed in such a manner that the mass of fine branches and foli- age is on the top part of the plant, and the lower part shows a few bare stems. Usually the result of overcrowding plants or of incorrect pruning (See Plate V). Lime, or Limestone: A stone containing the element calcium which will unite with oxy- gen and carbon dioxide to form calcium carbonate or “lime,’’ as used on the land. Line-out: As applied to planting work usually means the operation of planting small nursery stock in definite rows where such stock can make a further normal growth and be easily maintained. 366 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Litter: The soiled straw or leaves which have been used for bedding in stables, but which does not contain any considerable quantity of manure except that which it has absorbed in the form of fluids. Frequently used for mulching purposes. Loam: Earthy matter containing clay, silt, sand, and organic matter in such proportions as to make a soil adapted to supporting vegetable growth. Loam varies from a very sandy loam to a very clayey loam. Usually called topsoil. (See topsoil 6.) Loam, sandy: Loamy soil which contains a predominance of sand. Lump Lime: Burned limestone not evenly slaked so as to become finely divided. Magnesian Lime: A term describing a lime or limestone containing both magnesium carbonate and calcium carbonate. Magnesium: An element, usually occurring as magnesium carbonate, which is a compound useful in correcting soil acidity. Manure: Any material, either organic or inorganic, containing a superabundance of plant food or material which upon decomposition or nitrification becomes available plant food. Marl: An earthy, crumbly deposit consisting chiefly of clay and calcium car- bonate much used as a substitute for land lime. ‘‘Green sand” marl may be acid, but good chalk marl is valuable for neutralizing acids. Miidew: A diseased condition caused by the downy mildew fungus. Muck: Black swamp earth which varies widely in available plant food, very similar to peat except that water is not constantly present during the process of decay; hence the nitrifying bacteria are present and the material is better suited for immediate use as plant food. It isin an intermediate stage between leaf mould and peat. Pirate LX. There is always an opportunity on every large estate for the naturalizing of bulbs. Poet’s narcissus is quite happy in a wild garden or field environment. (See page 270, group XX XVI-B) Pirate LXI. Throughout the Southern States the creeping fig is one of the most desirable vines for growth on masonry walls. It develops interesting foliage of a fine texture and is a vigorous grower and compares favourably with the Lowe’s Boston ivy, so successfully used in the Northern States. (See page 303, group XLIII-C-b) GLOSSARY 367 Mulch: A surface covering about the base of plants to prevent or retard evapo- ration of moisture from the soil, and prevent sudden freezing and thawing in the soil. Dead leaves, straw, manure, etc., are commonly used. Naturalize: To adapt and to cause to grow, without artificial care, in a woodland or field environment. This does not imply reproduction of its kind in the new location. Nitrification: The process resulting in the formation of nitrates in the soil. Certain bacteria known as “nitrifying bacteria” are the cause of this change of nitrogen and nitrogen compounds into nitrates. It is thus the oxida- tion of nitrogen caused by bacteria in the soil. Nitrification cannot proceed except in a moist, warm soil which is well aerated. It is checked entirely when the soil temperature is lower than 40° F. and also when the soil becomes water logged or saturated, and proceeds rapidly when the temperature reaches 75° Fahr. and when only 4o to 50 per cent. of the water necessary to cause saturation is present. Nursery: A place for growing plants out-of-doors, usually under intensive culti- vation. Nursery-grown Stock: Plants which have been grown at least one full year in a nursery, under the supervision of competent gardeners or nurserymen so as to pro- duce a number of even-sized superior plants for transplanting. Open Allee: A way framed on either side by symmetrical rows of closely planted trees or tall shrubs (of a height not less than twice the width between rows), and so maintained that both sides present a continuous vertical wall of close-growing foliage. Opening-up: In discussions on pruning this term means the cutting out of sufficient growth to admit the sunshine to the centre of the plant or to the area about a group of plants. Organic Manure: Manure consisting largely of decaying matter of animal or plant origin as distinguished from mineral manures which are inorganic, 368 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Parasitic Plants: Plants growing on or deriving nourishment from other plants; e. g., mistletoe. Paring and burning: This operation consists of paring off the sod containing foul or objec- tionable growth to a depth of about two inches and after allowing it to dry burning it and spreading the ash over the ground. Peat: Decayed organic matter of vegetable origin naturally deposited under still water, hence found in the form of bogs. As it has been deposited under water and is usually found still under water, nitrifying bacteria are not present and peat is unavailable as plant food until mixed with soil in which nitrifying bacteria are present. Peat varies in colour from a pale brown or yellowish brown to almost black and in texture varies from a fibrous substance, containing particles easily recognized as plant remains, to a compact mass of fine particles which when still wet resemble clay except in colour. Perennial: Plants growing year after year. Properly includes trees and shrubs; but in practice the term is limited to those plants which have no per- sistent stem above ground, but do nevertheless grow year after year, merely dying back to a crown bud each fall and sending out new stems each spring. Perennial herb is the proper term to express this meaning. Piedmont: A region lying at the base of a mountain range. Pleached Allee: A way framed on either side by symmetrical rows of closely planted trees or shrubs, so maintained that the branches of the continuous walls of close-growing foliage arch and interweave across the top of the way at a height of not less than seven or eight feet. Pocket-planting: The planting of trees and shrubs in a pocket of fertile soil formed by digging a large hole in a more or less unfertile soil and refilling with fertile soil; frequently adopted to save expense of preparing beds and also to save unnecessary washing of an area of loose soil on slopes. Pollard: v. Toremove the crown of a tree, usually at a point below the lowest branches, for the purpose of promoting a dense head of foliage or for re- juvenating the tree. GLOSSARY 369 Preparation, of planting beds: This process normally includes plowing, spading, or grubbing, pulveriz- ing the soil, applying manure and mixing with soil, and getting the beds into first-class condition to receive the plants. In clay soils it also in- cludes removing clay to proper depth, and replacing with fertile topsoil. Propagation: To cause to multiply either by reproduction from seed or from cuttings. Puddling: The dipping of the roots of plants into a mixture of clayey soil and water having the consistency of molasses, in order to get close contact between root hairs and the soil. This protects the root hairs from injury in transportation, retards drying out of the roots, and pro- motes the acquiring of a speedy contact between roots and the soil into which the roots are placed. Quicklime: Unslaked lime. In planting, any lime not wholly slaked is called quicklime. See calcium oxide. Refined Lawns, Gardens, etc. Said of a studied landscape arrangement which shows neatness and careful maintenance as contrasted to a naturalistic arrangement which permits each plant to grow in unrestrained competition with the sur- rounding plants. Renovate: To systematically prune old plants, either trees or shrubs, but more especially shrubs, so that at the end of two or three years the plant consists almost entirely of new wood grown within that period. This may also mean to give new life to old plants by cultivating and ferti- lizing the soil and by systematic pruning of the plant itself. Retardation: The artificial application of cold temperatures or other conditions whereby the resting period is prolonged. Reversion: A tendency to revert to parental or ancestral characteristics. Root-bound: A term used in speaking of any plant whose root system cannot develop further because confined to a limited area. Thus, when the 370 THE COMPLETE GARDEN root system of a potted plant has filled the pot the plant is root-bound, or when the root system of stock planted in pockets has filled the pocket and the surrounding soil is so compact that the roots cannot penetrate it, the plant becomes root-bound. Root Prune: To prune or cut the roots of a plant in order to check excessive growth of the woody tops; often done to secure a compact root system consist- ing of a mass of fine roots confined to a limited area in order to permit of the plant being transplanted with a greater degree of certainty that the plant will continue to live (See Plate VI, Page 34). Some- times done merely to permit of the plant being more easily fed and decrease the probability of the plant food being lost in the greater area of soil, or taken up by plants for which it is not intended. Root Stock: The subterranean runner or partially subterranean runner which is a part of the root system (not a part of the stem) which roots at inter- vals and sends up stems similar to a stolon. It is a part of the true root system, while a stolon is part of the stem. Rotted Manure: Organic manure in which oxidation is so nearly completed that no appreciable amount of heat is given off and much of the material is available as plant food. Runner: A slender stolon. (See Root Stock). Rust: A diseased condition caused by a rust fungus. Sanctuary: A place of refuge in which birds or animals may continue their normal habits without fear of being molested. Scald: A diseased condition of the bark of a woody plant caused either by the action of frost in bursting the cells or by excessive drying due to sun or wind action. Scion: Any bud or shoot or other portion of the stem of a plant capable of propagation cut off and prepared for grafting. GLOSSARY 371 Scraping tree trunks: The process of scraping off the loose bark from the trunk of a tree. The chief reason is to remove the hiding places of injurious insects. Seepage: The process of percolation, as ground water through the soil. Shothole: A small local centre of attack caused by parasitic fungi. Shrub: A woody perennial as distinguished from a tree mainly by its low stature and having several primary stalks arising at or near the ground. Slaked Lime: Is fresh burnt lime reduced to a fine condition by the addition of water. Smut: A diseased condition caused by a smut fungus. Sod: That stratum of earth which is filled with the roots of grass, herbs, etc. Sour Soil: An acid soil; a term generally applied to a soil which is not only acid but deficient in soil aeration and in drainage. Specimen Plant: A plant specially grown by itself so as to display it to best advantage or to allow the plant to assume normal and unrestricted growth. Spore: A minute portion of a fungus capable of germinating and growing into a new fungus. Sport: An unusual variation from the normal type as commonly demonstrated in habits of growth and qualities of colour or size of flowers. Sprigging: Planting of grass by inserting roots or whole plants in the ground as Bermuda grass is generally planted. 372 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Stagger: To plant alternately at equal distances in a row on either side of a middle line (as in the planting of hedges) or to arrange over any area at equal distances without any reference to any definite line. Stag-head: Said of a tree the top of which is dead or nearly so, due to injury by accident or disease. Stem: One of the three divisions of all plants, which consist of roots, stem, and leaves. The stem is the ascending axis of the plant. Stolon: A branch from the stem, as distinguished from the root system. A stolon roots, or is disposed to root, at intervals, thus forming a new plant. Stratify: To store seeds between layers of earth, leaves, or other material, or to bury them so as to keep them fresh and moist, but not so warm as to germinate. Straw Manure: Manure which contains a portion of the straw which was used for bedding. Chiefly applied to the manure from stables in which straw was used as bedding, as distinguished from stables in which sand, sawdust, shavings, etc., are used as bedding. Subsoil: That soil lying directly beneath the topsoil; chemically similar but physically different. Without special treatment it will not sustain vege- tation, but on aeration will sustain some hardy plants most of which are vigorous weeds. Suckers: Adventitious shoots appearing on the roots or stems of plants. When they come on grafted plants, arising below the graft, they are of the same variety as the root, not the variety of the top. Suffocating Root Systems: A cause of abnormal loss among newly transplanted stock, especially the shallow-rooted type of trees, such as beech, maple, elm, and birch. The smaller feeding roots are deprived of properly aerated soil because of excessive depth of fill over the roots or because of compact clay soil GLOSSARY 373 being filled around the base of the trees during the transplanting operation. Sun-scald: An injury to the cambium layer of a plant caused by the heat of the sun’s rays; also a burning of the leaves of certain plants. Suppressed Growth: Growth in shaded areas that has been retarded because of a lack of sunlight. Tamping: The operation of making firm and solid all earth filled around roots of newly transplanted stock. It helps to eliminate unnecessary air spaces. Tap-root: A long central root running deep into the soil. Tip-burn: The condition of the edge of leaves of plants caused by too luxuriant growth followed by excessive heat and drought. Topiary Work: The cutting and trimming of shrubs and trees, especially evergreens, into odd or ornamental shapes, thus producing an effect entirely dif- ferent from that produced by the natural growing habits of the plant. (Birds, vases, urns, etc.) Top-dressing: A thin layer of manure spread over the surface of the ground, no at; tempt being made to work it into the soil. Top-pruning: The pruning of the top of a plant, especially the removal of the leader, to cause the plant to spread over a wider area and attain less height. Sometimes called “topping.” Topsoil: A term applied to that part of the earth’s surface which is tilled and consists of a soil ranging from a sandy loam to a clayey loam, contain- ing the chief elements necessary to support vegetation, in a condition readily made available as plant food, and containing sufficient moist- ure to support plant life. Usually consisting of the top layer of virgin soil (four inches to eighteen inches deep). — 374 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Is the result of the action of heat, frost, air, cultivation, surface or rain water, soil bacteria, etc. It is of finer particles than the subsoil, darker in colour, and looser in texture, and is rich in organic matter. A good topsoil, thoroughly dried, should contain 30 to 4o per cent. voids, when well shaken down in a box; that is 30 to 4o per cent. of its own volume of water should fill it to saturation but not increase the volume of the soil. It should contain from 40 to 60 per cent. of this amount of water to properly support plant life. Training: A procedure consisting principally of judicious pruning to adapt plants to limited areas or to form particular shapes, also to encourage the formation of flowers and fruit. Transpiration: The giving off of water vapour through the leaf pores of the plart. Transplanting: To remove a plant from one location and plant it in another location. Tree: A woody perennial, having a single main trunk. Tree Pit: A pocket or pit excavated to permit the introduction of sufficient fertile soil to support a tree; a common practice in planting street trees in city streets. The surface of the soil in the pit should be suf- ficiently lower than the surrounding area so that much of the rain falling on the surrounding area will flow to the pit, and the bottom of the pit must be well drained to remove excess water. Trench: v. To spade ground so deeply that the digging of ditches is nec- essary; hence to spade ground to two or more times the depth of a spade. In landscape work trenching is usually done for the purpose of saving good topsoil that has been buried under useless subsoil and also for the purpose of mixing manure and fertilizers into soil to a depth of one or more feet, especially in the vicinity of large trees and garden areas. Turf: The upper stratum of earth which is filled with roots of grass; sod. Pirate LXII. Used as a tree for screen effects, specimen planting, or hedges, the Australian pine is throughout southern Florida one of the most freely used plants. (See page 310, group XLIII-J) (A-TITTX dnois ‘Sof a8ed 99S) ‘QUIA B IO qn4iys & SB ssulurd Uplo] yf ul osn 10f Pp299]9S Ajjuanbasy SI *‘sIIMOY MOT[aA [Hflanevsaq sit fo gsneoIq puUe ‘QBeT[OJ Aavoy SHI JO ISNBIId Y[GeIIsap ‘epurwey]|e MoTaA FUL ILLX’] FLV1d GLOSSARY 375 Vase Form: In a plant, a manner of growth where the top springs from a single stem and spreads outward toward the top as the shape commonly taken by the American elm when growing in the open. For hedges see Plate V. Vista: A view or prospect; commonly through or along an avenue of trees. Wall Garden: A garden made by planting small plants in the crevices between the stones in a dry wall which is acting to support an earth embankment. Warm Soil: A soil in which temperature conditions are such that normal root growth is active, and the root fibres attach themselves to the minute particles of soil. Water Garden: A garden having a predominance of water-loving plants, with pools to sustain them. Water-soaked Soil: A soil where excess moisture conditions cause the air voids to become clogged with water and air to be entirely excluded, thus causing a condition termed “‘drowning-out” of root systems. Wild Garden: A garden on which little work has been done to disturb natural con- ditions, or a garden deliberately made to imitate natural conditions, the planting consisting chiefly of native plants, planted to get natural effects. Wilt: n. A parasitic disease generally caused by the anthracnose fungus. Windbreak: A planting composed of plants placed in such location as to shield cer- tain areas from undesirable winds, usually the cold northwest winds of winter. _ Wind-burn: An injury caused by the drying effect of wind upon soft bark or leaves of a plant. 376 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Winter-killing: The death of plants in winter due generally to sudden changes of tem- perature or to the ground becoming frozen too deeply. Yellows: A diseased leaf condition due to the breaking down or oxidizing of the plant leaf tissue caused by a ferment. Zone (Planting) An area characterized by a planting season of similar duration and dates for beginning and ending. we INDEX For the scientific names used in this book the author’s authority is The Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture and the Official Code of Standardized Plant Names, which latter has not been followed absolutely in every in- stance, though an earnest endeavor has been made to make the names conform to this nomenclature. It has been necessary to invent a few common names as no book in common use furnished a satisfactory name for many of the less well known plants. Many of these common names were taken from Britton’s Manual and from the excellent catalogues issued some years ago by the Biltmore Nurse et Mh botanical or sctentific eo names are indicated in italics. Aaron’s Beard NAME Aaron’s Beard . . . . Abelia chinensis . a Mninesew fe hace gee Le JETT Ae ne ROL At a ee . Himalayan Hybrid Mexican 757) 06 eG triflora . Abies (in variety) AEESTAT TTA Ve a ES LM AE brachyphylla . . . . . concolor y concolor slobosa (spherical) 4 frasevt . . capes) 395 grandis See P iche risen es nobilis . Pe | = nordmanniana. veittchi . Abrus precatorius Abyssinian Banana . Acacia armata farnestana. . Acalypha hispida wilkesiana . Acanthus. . Accent trees and shrubs Acer (in variety) . COIR PESUE oh, Paty vet ren tas CITCUNBIUIM «5s a ie ad ginnala. macrophyllum . negundo . ; palmatum and Varieties . pennsyluanicum platanotdes. . 4 platanoides globosum i platanoides schwedlerz. pseudoplatanus rubrum alike rubrum drummondi saccharinum . : saccharinum pyramidale Saccharum . ee saccharum monumentale . tataricum . Ae ee Achillea boule de neige : jilipendula. . plarmica flore pleno lomentosa . . Achyranthes, Narrow-leaved | Round-leaved . . ., The group numbers refer to subdivisions of the ta GrRouP alae 29-E-b, ey wince p 45-B-a 45-B-a, 45-F-b, 45-F-d 16-C, 22-C-b, 40-C-b, 43-E-b, 43- F-a, ob 4 45-F-d, 46-C-a, 46-H-b . . 1ec. 22-C-b, 40-C-b, 43-E-b, 43-F-a, 45-B-a, 45-F-d, 46-C-a, 46-H-b . rs sgh 45-F-b, 45-F-d 2... Tey, 42-D | . 9-C, 24-C-a, 28-A, 46-E . 9-A, 9-B, 14-A-b, 16-D-b-2, 24-C-a_ . oe 9-B, 11-A, 14-A-b, 44-F, 46-H-a . Ben 5 9- 43-F-c, 43-J-b- . 43-E-a, 43- F-d, 43- I ay 32-G-b-1 . : RL EIVERD ovis (a oak OA 14 : 30-A, 30-B. 4 12-A-b, 16-B-b, 16-D-a, 45-B-b. 46-C-b, 46-F bree 22-A, 25-A, 26-B-a, 46-F 10-C, 12-C, 22-A, 23-A, 44-C-a . 14-A-a, 15-B, 22-B, 40-C-b, . 10-B, 22- c- -a, 44-E- b, “46-D | 16-B- ee ‘ 14-A-a EA aN be Beals 46-D . PU 19-A, 20-B, 22-A, | 24-A- “a; ) 24Ca. 26-A- -a, 38- es b, 40-B, ae B-a, ee ais 46-F 38-C-b.. 10-C, 12-E-e, 23- A, 40-B, 44-E-b . 19. 12-D, 14-A-b, 16-A, 16-D-b-l1 10-A, 22-A, 24-C-a, 28-A, 44-C-a, 44-E-a . EV Nes ota Bie 14-A-b, 16-A, 16-D-b-1 12-C, 44-A-b i 15-C, 31-B-f, 31- I. 24-E ‘ PAU Ame te tite CI VE ee ee 29-A, 31-B-h . Pike ee OTs yA hfe fluas Ml ele ane S24G-D- LV UY bier) st st \ eye Me ips contents. Achyranthes PAGE 197, 207, 209, 324 320 320 320, 324, 326 146, 174, 290, 305, 320, 326, 336, 339 320 146, 174, 290, 305, 320 326, 336, 339 320, 324, 326 320 133, 298 113, 182, 196, 337 111, 112, 134, 147, 182 ut 112, 119, 134, 316, 339 1 111, 112, 182 302 146 320 306, 310 305, 307, 309 124, 145, 146, 321 337, 3 125, 173, 186, 191, 338 337 117, 125, 173, 177, 314 133, 139, 173, 290, 316, 336 169, 193 117, 173, 315, 337 154, 162, 173, 180, 182, 189, 281, 289, 301, 314, 338 281 117, 126, 177, 289, 315 125, 134, 144, 147, 116, 173, 182, 196, 314, 315 134, 144, 147 125, 313 139, 224, 232 184 229 203, 225 244, 266 244 Aconite NAME Aconite, Winter. . Aconitum (in variety) autumnale . fischeri . napellus wilsont. . Acorus japonicus variegatus Actaea (in Wiad: A il alba. . py Gripantes Hac spicat. Alessia (in variety) arguia. . » «© 2 © « chinensis . 2 PY td alate shee eS otln fe ams! Needievey i slo) a Drooping-leaved . . . . Early-flowering “ Late-flowering . Adaptation, Plants in general « Evergreens : Adder’s-tongue . . . Adenanthera pavonina . Adiantum pedatum . Adlumia cirrhosa Adonts vernalis . Aegopodium podagraria. Aesculus (in variety) hippocastanum . hippocastanum rubicunda indica . sedate ts octandra parviflora wilsont . Be African Corn Lily Bits Agapanthus aiitatiotes : Agave é A Ageratum (in variety) ‘ houstonianum. . . . Imperial Dwarf Blue . Imperial Dwarf White Ailanthus altissima . glandulosa. . . . Ajuga genevensts. © reptans ch Akebia, Divided-leaved. - Fiveleaved . . . . lobar. nents quinata. . Albizzia julibrissin « “ lebbek Smooth e Southern Dwarf . Speckled Woolly-leaved White. Aleurites fordi : triloba . Alisma plantago . sar a sae Trees and shrubs Olt ne Alkanet Caucasian . Italian. . Allamanda (in variety) | hendersons . + Henderson’s nertfolia see 8 Fa eae ur purea ine ' ey 8 WUSTISGUISE, Fo) or ne Wee veh vce William’s . Yellow Allee, Open Pleached . Alleghany Stewartia Alleghany Vine Allium moly, . , 380 Group 36-B 31-B-i, aN, 451 31-H Ba FR ote Gt eae SICA kes deu eels ie 28-B 24-B-c, 24C-<, 34-C, 34D, 34- E 25-C, 34-A. 45-L . eee eee oe ee wo 25-C 18-A, 24-E, 29-B, '29-G, 31-B-f, 33- E-g, 37-A-c, 42-B-b, big ikea 45- a 45-F-b ae 36-B, 45-J . 28-B, 29-D-b, 45 J sh se! te 32-F-a . - oe we 31-B-d, 45-I Baye 29-C BS ee 1A: Asa, 19 By ae 4) 10-C,11-A, 26... : 46-D Ss 22 Coe. "24-C-c, 34-D, 44-G’ eee. "24-C-c, 34-D, 44-G 43-Ba, 45-Ha, 45-K-a. 43-B-b . ies SI-L-D. a fe eer vs 14-B, 19-D, 19-G-b, 45-H-b. 32-F-a . AGA Bis SE-B ASP it locks 197 182, 183, 260, 261 187, 260 332 187 151, 184, 205, 209, 225, 253 277, 297, 310, 321, 320, 325 133, 155, 298 117, 119, 167 240, 241, 242, 244, 264, 265 244 183 117, 119, 167, 177, 321 222 197, 203, 205 175 175, 183, 261, 316 175 175, 183, 261, 316 301, 327, 331 146, 311 302 306, illus. 375 147, illus. 190, 192 146 135, 156, 159, 329 242 270, 331 Almond 381 Antigonon NaME Group PaGE 18-B 151 frulicosa . .. 13-B-b, 19-H, 42-A-b. cot 159, 297 Almond, Flowering. . . . La 14-B, et BARS Si) ob lvalinre 129, 135, 157, 317 Alnus (in variety) eacty. o 30-A NAW Ly eealent rer tha 212 glutinosa . . «. « 2 24-A-a, Fo eR eT UY 180, 186 tncana . CM cn 1 DARA Ra 2O-Aae i i eile) vow Valle 180 190 rugosa serrulata BG 24-A-a, ata mo iey Vela tani wily Karhhie 180, 190 Alpine Plants cae Nine 15 enh tet, plevtetee ise jie iMite 136 Alstroemeria chilensis . . . EROS LADS a i eA BN 329 Alternanthera . .... BAA ts Bellew (ieijaers fel ane 243 Narrow-leaved . .. . 32-G-a-1 at Woe maria Yaurit aii iiee tee 243 Round-leaved er saunas eat State ERR CRN, Ahem died 243 Althaea Gnesnates online’ ah ue) dieu en ales 331 yoseaa . . PREM Ye 3h Be. 3L-E, 31-N Whee ed ia) alee 225, 229, 236 MENPLEMZINE He, Lies :, Ret Vica fe 31-B- ery ull iltett b Meh Wie br ety its 224 rosea—yellow . Bn 31-B-h . aay ican tet latre cakely Tee Mle 225 Alyssum (in variety) Beha 43-I, 7 YAEL A 8 309, 329 argenteum BS tac SAE RCN i MEIC IR iii pehworm Mehta eR Tart lier stag Pret NAN 139 Li Ve) SA 2 Soa ca aD las ramet Melt eitvveM epee retails’ 244 maritimum. . hy he Dal ieee Mhell /rowihe: lolita mat MOMiAtS 210, 240 maritimum Lilac Queen Bp ais EAHA ay Deo We, Me rsth oy Mi avyArer ate 244 marttimum LittleGem . . 32-B, 32-G-a-2 2. 1 tw et lt 241, 244 maritimum variegatum . . DA famaa LW welsh Ves er ileuCel vera cer Aine 243 saxatile. . aly aul At 31-B-d . and tattle (as hanel in Lav tebe 223 saxatile compactum Bie 15-C, 29-A. pitukel ten ited an eanaiile 139, 203 Sweet ° 29-I, 32-A 32- B A isi tenipet ital Walenta 210, 240, 241 Variegated-leaved Sweet . FN AOR A aR RON DI URLS Af (3 243 White; Sweet) 0/5) 02) sy. a omdems init! abt Aad helt ad ih ayn eiunte nite 244 Amanita apie Berane iss bes 38-A a AY Welt rah, pie ltva atte Les ath te 279 phaliosdess 0) ei es el es OHA Hanna dye | nhaaih lat sere) sarereN lepraren fe 279 Amaranth,Globe . .. . BAe ESCA ORE Aa Nog dic MRED EATS fh 240 Amaryllis. . eA ASW ial Pel lstahed elope a ttelhivatttarea nite 309 Amelanchier (in variety) we 20-day ier At vel et die nce hel ents 165, 173, 293 canadensis Seda soi like 13-B-c ab Seas age uel emi Cee rates 131 oblongifolia . . . 4 WT, LOSAS 2G-Be-dyvad ot! ule!” ve bt) eile 149, 154, 191, 193 rotundifolia. : 3 AS-ACD Ere tsoue varie! ay'ei) ine altie 129, 149 Amorpha (in variety) : 6 ASM idan lie tare itelhbisit ime: inlet trey Lek jis 331 canescens . . . . A RAIN oa a) a, ran lennessensis . A - 45-F-a . A ivict bolic Ampelopsis aconitifolia é 25-C, 29- E-c, 34D, SLE pene IC 187, 207, 261 engelmannt. uate 5 34-B, 46-G. SORES Gar s , 338 Engelmann’s . . .. . 34-B, 46-G. Do ee Nes 260, 338 RELPLOD EVIE as coin ei ve, be 25-C, 29-E-c, 34- D, 34-E 187, 207, 261 quinguefolia . . . « « 20-D-a, 22-B, 24-B-c, 25-C, "26-A-c, 165, 173, 182, 187, 190, 207, A ee are oe -D, eal Ca, init b, 260, 261, 302, 314, 319, triscuspidata lowi. . . .« 34-B INTRA Te emits 260 triscuspidata geckos 34-B, 45-A-b, 46. G Rd el aa dodges Sed 260, 819, 338 Anagallis ‘ LS Shane 32-B tine 241 Anchusa (in Variety) PRI RG enc 45-I Siletas Tee eie real Mie 330 aIBNCe) Sih how ais 24-E, 31-B-a, sL-H Fae AO aa ot a 184, 222, 231 mysotidiflora . . . «. « Se ers pil eit A Reine s 184 Andromeda sO S75, 3) ol fe 26-A-c 5 0 = = : ace 190 poltfolia ve he pom tre BAG OOaEs-Di slaved eeeh de? use ited ove ue 151, 252 Anemone coronaria. . . . 45-I 330 POMEL OH, to) be, Ramen We 31-A, 31- Bi. 31- Bk, 3LF, 3-H, 31- I, 221,./226; (230) neal jwece,) 253: 31-K- -a, 4 289, illus. 303 VIETAOTOSE To)! 53 Nor Violin eka 40-C-a he 290 pennsyluanica. . . . .» 15-C, 28-B, 31-B-b, 31- Ca, 40-A ENTS 139, 197, 222, 227, 289 Poppy-flowered . . . . 45-I A ements 330 ISUIOPSETES! o5'0)\'2" cal) NOLN UAE LANs. tocgl? soi! raul Maas 222 Mite Wodd').)) 30. Senile AE rea a es U eek asta jan! sein, ies hore lieve tke 290 Angelica Tree . . . . . DANO ADsBaB) iol il's. ls. Uae Rotne 182, 297 Five-leaved . . Sate 13-A-b, 22-C-b-l1. . . 2. 2. « « 129, 174 Annual Meadow Grass . Ayre BOAb aN Veritas livia alia tk amnioiite 281 Annuals . SAVE tel esti, sepy ee byl tarerel Vine Mme 237, illus. 287, 334 Carpet Bedding, annuals for. RAG Wap Mow Latyiigr eau Lawrial Mitel tiradl tie 243 Cut flowers, valuable for . SESSA Ie TATUM s ie DA abd oen Pany at ) 4 239 Design Bedding, annuals for. AEA Venice Irelciiies uae Tie: elas enume pane 245 Difficult to transplant . . 5 Pt OME RA NE Rn emia Ta I 241 Early blossoming | : DATO IMM aly Wel ValMiesiil al it ar ik ell Liat Me tetaiee 242 Ground cover, sown for. | SEES Wy. ei fo\Pireit time vols ices Naik) re Nekoon es 240 Planted in several sowings to insure succession of bloom. 574) DU ely Re UAE Cue BS heen et eye 1.3 241 Staried indoors to produce good bloom before frost . RAY Dn ON AER TRS i Transplanting of Bia Seah iawn + Vines . Dil Saabs SAH een antisera a Uc Ray ein deiner ne 242 Delicate foliage. ee YTS OE AN Ian SAAN) Pri atte i@ Heavy foliage . . . . S2-B-D) eis) yet. ie - Anthemis (in variety) . . . 37-B-b . tinctoria kelwayit . . . 31-A, 31-B-h, 31-D, 31-H, 31-K-c, 45-1 221, 225, 229, 231, 234, 330 Antigonon leplopus . . . . 43-C-a,45-L . . Riana ite 302, 332 Antirrhinum NAME Antirrhinum (in variety? majus . : majus nanum. . Aphananthe aspera . Apple : ‘Aquatic Plants . Aquilegia (in variety) caerulea. > caerulea hybrida canadensis ppeeee tat CUIYSAQNUUE ear se) ee formosa hybrida pare hybrida Rose Queen . hybrida. rhe nivea grandiflora . vulgaris. . Arabis (in variety) - albida . 5 alpina. . alpina nana compacta Aralta (in variety) . pentaphylla Tacemosa spinosa. . Araucaria excelsa Arborvitae American . Columnar Oriental Compact Douglas’ Dwarf . Elwanger’s. Fastigiate George Peabody’ s Golden Globe . . Hovey’s Japanese . Little Gem. Oriental Pyramidal Pyramidal Oriental Rosenthal’s Siberian. Tall Pointed . Tom Thumb . Vervaene’s. Western A Woodward’s Dwarf . Arbutus, Trailing menztest unedo 3 Arctotis grandis ay ieee ae Arctostaphylos uva-urst . Ardisia crenulata crenulata tubra Scallop-leaved. tevoluta. : Arenaria caespitosa . montana . Argemone (in variety) z Argentine Monkey’s Comb Arisaema triphyllum. ‘ Artstolochia elegans . stpho Armeria (in variety) maritima . maritima alba . maritima laucheana Arnalto Aronia (in variety) . arbutifolia . melanocarpa Arrowhead, Giant Arrow-wood . Downy- leaved. Artemisia (in yanety) abroianum . dracunculus oe acti flora sericea 382 GROUP 35-A-a, 35-A-b 31-J, 32-A, wisi S2-H-b, 45-1. 32-H-a. . ' 1-L SLA 3i- I, 31- Ka, 3i- N, 40-A, 45-1 31-H 31-B-a 15-C, 31- B-c, a1-Ca. At kbs 31- B-d, 31-H . Snr é 3i-B-c..) See ee ee 29-F, 31-B-b, 37-A-c. 24-E, 29-A, 29-F, 31- Bb 15-C : 24-C-b, 42-B-b_ ; 13-A-b, 22-C-b-1 . 28-B 5 11-B, 20-B, 43-F-a, 45-H-a . 43-B-b . 12-A-a, 14-A-a, 30-A, 39, 42- E. 9-B, 2 Ky eee 24-C-a, 44-F i! ms > tt > Shs oy Spe Xe) W>Ok > > -E, 12-B, 18-A_ ' . OOOOOOH OOOO HHO PP ¥ ae XN Pi gee “ w 2 ~ vt o © tg 45-E 4 OFAN Ae Verte ys 9-A, 9-B, 16-D-b-2 9-A seyret ke orae 12-B 9-A c 16-D-b-2 9-E 29-A, 30- A, 33-E-b, b, 37-A-c, 40- Ca. 46-H-b - - 45-G, 45-K-b . 32-A 28-A, 29-8, 29- Ea, 33- E-b, 46-1 B-a. 45-F-b 20-D-a . 13-B-b, 24-A-a, 28-A, 29-H | 13-B-b, 24-A-a, 28-A, 45-F-c 31-L-b... Sree oe -C, 22-B, 26-A-c, 27 42-B-b, 45-1 stu ey ts Sore ee Ses y hem Re 37-B-b. : 38-C-a . 31-B-f, 31- B-j. ‘37- ‘Acc 44-B-a. . Artemisia PAGE 264 233, 240, 242, 246, 330 245 327 284 234, illus. 318 cae 232, 233, 236, 289, 330 222 139, 223, 227 231 331 208, 222, 276 184, 203, 208, 223 139 182, 297 129, 174 197 120, 162, 305, 327 301 124, 134, 212, 284, 298 113, 180, 182, 316 135 114 112 114 114, 125 135 112 112, 114, 125, 151 114 113 112, 114, 151 113, 147, 321, 322 112, 135, 145, 146 323 112 112, 113, 147 112 125 112 147 114 204, 212, 253, 277, 290 339 327, 332 240 Se 204, 206, 252, 336 327, 332 324° 327, 332 304 130, 180, 196, 209 130, 180, 196, 325 234 156, 173, 190, 193 193 297, 330 184, 277 277 280 224, 226, 276 313 Artemisia 383 Australian Pine NAME GROUP PAGE Artemisia stelleriana. . . . PAIS ON aS ee it Ag Dk NL A 184 Artobotrys odoratissimus . . 43-F-c . Aye ATS Meany eat) 306 Aruncus sylvester . . . 31-B-f, 31-C-a, Lo EY RE 3 224, 227, 234 Arundo donax . . . ... RHE Dy Re eM ae ah, epitdl tae) Vee 229 Asarum arifolium . . . . ee Aare ster ee ity alii ie ist ee Aliy ed ti hese 319 EOUMGENSE) 3) 4) ee ae ise DEAN UM oH lidhln clit aWiiniarnlet ¥ ie 209 BARPSTCINN 6s) 3) es enitia SSAA CHT ONIN G KW a iT te wrlWY stl Mle Tal lifattan tia 319 Asclepiasincarnata. . . . Pee a ar Chey a tel thenl i NetuNyelll bes Hieveite 234 PRPS GEMETOL Vege). 'g) { leary tl oiote a Wiis 24-A-a . BPN iia PARLIN) rod 1X en Hoh We Ma 180 tuberosa . a ire 31-C-a, WN Ree AN 227, 330 Ash, American Mountain wile Da- AU AAD Iie Ae bi Vine dite ote) nakbe 186, 315 Biltmore . . ey 45-C SD MAA AE Vaan heal a\ ec fe 321 European Mountain. : - 10-C, 2182 Le NA a RRR AR 117, 163 Mountain. . SAKES Pade OE) oe WE GPs ie Met a ea Rua THES 166, 298 Pyramidal Mountain. | . 14-A-b. SUI oA AVA PAY ait hay AIST Mine 135 sing leaved Mountain . . 14-A-a, 16-D-b- Ay: IEC DR Ie aN RAN Hy 134, 147 Red mente bee Aba Siiieinie AP RU SUD RA BA Mey 328 Silver-leaved White Aleta a 45-H-a BU TES TEAL EN Oo ge «eT MPLA URE We 328 Water)... Sp era ae ¢: SCRE A LEAT A OU Laat eRe er ve neh 321 VPS TNT) a I es a a faite 25-A, 44-C-b, 44-E-a, 173, 180, 186, 314, 315, 337 IASHOeCS hs Jie) tay te leg fe 10-B, 11-A, 39. Rp aes Ws 117, 119, 284 Asiatic Creeper. . .. . 25-C, 29-E-c, 34-D, 34-E Pak fons 187, 207, 261 Asimina triloba . . . . .« 20-A. Si Weg bbe dee aye 162 Asparagus Fern. . .. . 35-A-c, 35- B- a Dei EN ak Sul AAP i Pa! 265, Asparagus sprengert . . . BO-A-Cy GOS (fis bye helt, fel eth eile 265, Aspen, Trembling . .. . 21 PAG DE UD Wt: Mame at rege Aa ane fy) & 170 Asperula ‘acamehene Morente 31-C-b . PAW eas Mees iC 228 odorata 4 BATU 29-A, 29-F, cg, BeBe aie 204, 208, 276, 277 Aspidistra lurida cit hig la lgv as 35-B-c Bik er donee 266 Tall Evergreen . Eph 35-B-c f ate 266 Aspidium acrostichoides. Pe 28-B, 29- 7 -a, 29-D-b, , 33- E-b RUA, te 197, 206, 252 CLEStAtME ahha) a ees 29-D-b eerste the 206 voldieanum. . . .. . 29-D-b Sh tani sts 206 MIATLENGIE Ds bei y Ja) eit en eg 28-B, 29- Pa: 29-D-b, BEER a owe 197, 206, 228, Aspienium ebeneum. . . . 29-D-a . ey athe 206 ux-loemina ~~ ss so 29-D-b Arai ichielt (ani iene casas Wl Mabie 206 WrachOMmanes A) Oe. ewe 29-D-a sae Revel et unite Dy fal ari ae 206 Assonia natalensis . . . . CIB De VIN aD Pa UST Ue ay Se 305 LCE 5) (RPE ER a AS ED cil at al Vest tattt lelie vista fe einer lias 306 RUTECMAG Na! Wit Cer! ia. a! ofe ASR Dey ee aN eis mere NGM THA tet thle 306 Villers, ade a ane a 43-F-a . 305 Aster (in variety) . . . . 30-A, 31-A, 31-B-i ue, 31- B-j, ‘31- B- k, 212, 221, 226, 229, 230, 234, 31-E, 31-F, 31- rite 31-M-b, 39 . 235, 284 acuminatus . . « «+ « 28-B PA at votes 197 BlvevHardy, (Sy 5 eee ZI Ae OT RS URL a 232, 309 12 75)°2 ) AP RNY Se DAES ANE We Tied Nel cE ME Ices wlohe ake Wen fe 180 COTASIONUS) © se) SO A DEE HOLA Al) af Medi hep die, Whe Nish (set Ne 197, 227 COTSUIVOSUS < Visi) 1h) elite 28-B, 31-C-a . . ; wits ta 197, 227 RYACOMACS I ee NY Wyse ne 29-B, 31-C-a, 38-C- a aie 204, 227, 280 Hardy yo Dae eee 30-A, 31-B-j, 31-E, vip F, ay ‘Lc Aine 212, 226, 229, 230, 234 Hardy Garden «0 ekewn 31-K-c, 38-C-a_. Mail 234, 280 MEVIGTOLSS A) nh ol) Ri tai 24-A-a... OR eerste Gen) UN 180 novae-angliae . WV di ie ean Seah 234, 280 novae-angliae Climax) (7 6! Sj iS IR? 6) EE AD Han us natn 232, 309 MOVE-VEISE e's ci) ena | 31-K-c. . SI eA SL Ip Been cou ean 234 patens . eee ete etate OES U yeh like) Jha hie! 7) are WaT Oe ie 197 Sharp-leaved SE are oh ou heeds PASS) HTN IAW ROUUn en Aue Ae aia ea) 197 Spreading) ee ee Vk 28-B Si URCa te Hor tahiey lieve alten tem Aete 197 RaW OED M Wa Wall. hell | ilay! Wiehe 28-B, 31-C-a . eIpucl bes om Het elie 197, 227 Stokes’ EMEA he Nt 15-C, 31-B-e, 31- Bile Sh it Uke ESS 140, 224, 232 White Heath . ah i ee era ph lee 29-B, 31-C-a, 38-C-a ee ee nd a 204, 227, 280 Wild . ath ever etyaes are aire Bi i A TA CC eat IESE, 197, 227 Woody Aare TE ET 38-A. Sat Halll soir Hevea ASMP 279 Astilbe biternata. . . . . 30-A UI Rian ke ares OV aa ae 212 AGUEAM cadha ly tec | fel viel te 31-B-g, p25 A 225, 234 grandis SAU Lan ee arene fe 31-E Sitctake sehen 229 apAnese ns. hii ve) elt) \e ie eS OMe 8 a) nN 124, 155, 224, 232 POPE oye Muro hl Noi er Wits 12-B, 19-C; 31- vi a sini PU SS (Te 124, 155, 224, 232 Large-flowered eal Me 229 PASUSIOSIG DEA (0. (ss 8 ASPs te eas UN WG hal REL AY pt aa 207 Atropa belladonna . .. . SORA eed lait i MT hws Aldea ate 279 Aubrietia delloidea . . . . P28 NS EF DA GYR LIM Cgeah EM GDR N UHH 208, 252 delloidea graeca . wlll SE-B a ok 222 Aucuba japonica. . .. . 16-C, 45-F-b, '45-G, ASH, 45-K- b, Wee cau 327, 329, 332, 335, 46-A-b, 46-H-b. japonica latimaculata. . . ABBE a an ist meu apa rir cy abaliam & 324 japonica variegata. . . . 45-H-b , SNH AND aa) ia eS 329 Australian Pine. . . . ., 43-A, 43-B-b, 43-J-a . ahtied sah ioe Wes 301, 302, 310, illus. 374 Autumn Colouration NAME Autumn Colouration of Lene Early atl | ake Late A ns Coloured foliage Green foliage Shrubs Vines . Medium Autumn flowering Perennials . Shrubs . Avens Orange Avenues (Trees for). Azalea (in aE) See rhodo- dendron. . amoena. arborescens canescens Carolina. Crimson Evergreen Flame-coloured 2 Fragrant Mountain . gandavensis Ghent . Hardy Evergreen. Hardy Indian imodacere Ven te erate a NS oat ot wa ANDES Wigs) set ve indica Mentions ee Japanese . 5A japonica lutea TIOLES MA cet oa ere On ere Native sa tone ie Wee ates nudtflora . obtusa. . Au Orange-flowered ite Pontic Sor pontica eetete tke arte Smooth Swamp vaseyt . viscosa. . Baby’s Breath Pinkie A Baby’s Slippers C Baccharis halimifolia Bald Cypress Pyramidal Balm of Gilead . Ball of Snow. Balloon Flower . Balloon Vine. Balsam, Garden Bamboo . . Silver . Striped. . Bambusa (in variety) argentea disticha. striata . Banana . Banana Shrub Baneberry White . Baptisia (in variety) australis tinctoria Barbadoes Cherry, Dwarf - Barbadoes Flower Fence Barberry (in vanichy) Alleghany . Box-leaved. Chilean Darwin’s Evergreen . 384 GROUP 22s: : ae 22-A 22-C 5 : 5 22-C-a 5 22-C-b : Spach Pace Sah nc 22-C-b-1 lars 22-C-b-2 : - 4 22-B C ; aes ; 9-D 30-B, 31- Bc, 81- D 31-B-d . 10 SNR Aaa ane REA 14-B, 27, 30-A, 33-E-a, 39, 40-B, 44-G 12-B, 45-B-a, 45-F-b edits 13=B=b) S7-Araets 5) er) 5) isi 37- A-a, 45-F-a 13-B-a, 19-A, 19-E-a, 45-F-a 46-C-a . Sage 13-B-a, 19-A, 19- Bebe sae 37-A-a, 45-F-a . . .. . 45-F-a F A Revkie Meeks 45-F-a 12-B, 45-B- ve 45-F-b- 45-F-b . : 46-C-a 43-F-a, 43-F-b, 43-F-d, 43-F-e, 43-H, 45-F-b, 46-C-a 43-F-a, 43-F-b, 43-F-d, ae 43-H, 45-F-b, 46-C-a. . an 45-F-b . 15-B, 19- B, 45-F-a 15-B, 19- B. 13- B-a, 19-A, 19-F-b - 45-F-a. . 27 13-B-a, JoB. 19-A, 19- E-a, | 24- Bo, 19-G-a, 37-A-a, 45-F-a ids 31-I, ae SoG; a2, ae 29-F. A 19-D, 26-A-c, 43-D, 45-F-c | 14-A-a, 16-D-b-l, 24-A- -a, Bie 45-H- -a. 14-A-b. 37-B-b . 15-0, SURE, 31-1) 24-E, 31-B-e, baie ae Bee 3 i 13. a 43- 1, 45- H-b 43-A. 43-A 43-I, 45-H-b 43- ° 45-J 43- -F- -C, 43-F-d, 43-J-b 19-F-a, 20-B, 20-C, 20- D-a, 39. 45-F-a 3 5 45-F-b, 46-C-a, 46-H-b | 45-B-a, 45-F-d, 45-K-b . 45-F-b, 46-C-a f 33-E-b, 45-F-b Barberry PaGE en illus. 247 226 156 212, 223, 229 223 115 135, 193, 212, 252, 284, 289, 316 124, 320, 324 1 275, 323 ny 154, 157, 323, illus. 214 3 124, 320, 324 324 336 305, 306, 307, 308, 324, 336 305, 306, 307, 308, 324, 336 324 139, 155, 323 139. 155 233 154, 158 193 130, 139, 154, 157, 181, 323 130, 154, 157, 323 158, 276, 323 225, 232, 240, 241, 309 241 208 156, 190, 304, 325 134, 147, 180, 323, 329 13500 3, 277 139, 224, 232 184, 224, 330 242 307, 310 157, 162, 163, 165, 284 323 324, 336, 339 320, 326, 332 324, 336 252. 324 Barberry NAME Barberry, Fragrant. . . . Holly-leaved . . .. . Purple-fruited. PHEDOIGS! css fee fake Small-leaved . ks Thunberg’s Japanese | ere Wilson’s . Aa Barren Strawberry — BS Tae Barrenwort, American . ; Japanese 5 Barriers, Plants for . Bauhinia (in prety) acuminata. . =r ay om purpurea . purpurea triandra. lomentosa . Bayberry Bay Tree. . BEd iat, White. aie Scarlet Runner rry Bear’ s Breech Beaumontia grandifiora « White-flowered Beauty Fruit. ae Plants for design bee: Beiay, Northern. ;‘ Beech (in variety) . American. . European. . Hehe Sy Fern-leaved Ecopeat hdrop : Beechnut. Begonia, Bedding ‘ herry-red Bedding - MER 6's swe Rex. . semperflorens, “Triomphe de Lorraine. . FAD (ued semperflorens, Vernon, (tuberous-rooted) . Tuberous . Belamcanda chinensis Bellis perennis. Bending-road Planting « Benzoin aestivale. Berberis (in variety) artstata. buxtfolia canadensis . darwint. hakeotdes heteropoda . tlicifolia neuberti latifolia ‘ Sarcentiana. 3 3. 6s) ks steboldt Byler d ve a Skee stenophylla. SS ee aegis thunbergi AVetard ey 5 wilsonae . AMA Oh Berchemia scandens . : Bergamot “Berry | ; luda grass planting “ Berries, See Pruling Plants Betula (in variety) alba 385 GrouP 45-F-a De oo an 45-F-b, 45-F-d, 46-C-a, 4 46-H-b ews 45-F-a : A Ake 45-F-a . 45-F-b, 46-H-b 11-B, 12-A-b, 12-B, 12-E-b, 12-E-c, 12-E-d, 13-A-a, 16-B-b, 22- B, 24-C-b, 26-A-c, 42-A-a, 43-E-b, 44-C-b, 46-A-a, 46-F anes 22-C-b-1, 45-F-a, AER Ey aoe ares 45-A- -a, ao, PRC gues S katy 1 Oa Se ES ec, Wo) ett wi: 13-A-a, 13-B-a, 18-B, 20-B, 20-C, 20-D-b, 22-C-a, 24-B-b, 25-B, 26-A-c, 28-A, 29-E-a, 39, 40-C-a, 43- oJ b, ae A5-B Cun aren liei) Le ; 16-C, 45-F-d . E DA-AsAV Cw e.) sents, ve Ee A, 29-B, 29-E-a, 33- E-b, 46-B.a. 1-M-b. ion nS) 6 16ele 2 Xe, . 32-G-b-2 ;: SOAS DM el Aisin e dt el ieee Fn 8 Rs 32-G-b-2 Abe Gr eth ee me SUNG TE Co Se Ma ae 35-A-b, 35-B-b . . . . 30-B, 45-J . a 29-F, 31-B-c, 31-J, 31-K-c 19-A, 19-F-a, 20-D- -a, 27, 28-A, 30- Fx 37-B- -a, 40-B, 42-A-a, 44-G, 45-F-c . 19-F-a, 20-B, 20-C, 20-D-a. . 45-F-a ‘ 45-F-b, 46-C-a, 46-H- b 5 45-F-a . 3 : 45-F-b, 46-C-a 45-B-a, 45-F-d, 45-K-b 45-F-a 45-F-a, 46-C-a, 46-H-b : 45-F-d . 5 33-E-b, 45-F-b 45-F-a A 45-F-b, 46-H-b 11-B, ’12-A-b, 12-B, 12-E-b, '12-E-c, 12°E-d, 13-A-a, 16-B-b, 22-B, 24-C-b, 26-A-c,42- -A-a,43-E-b,44-C-b, soe eats 45-F-a, 46-F OL 31-B-g, 31-K-a, 37-A-c, 3 31-C-a . 43- B. 43-E-a ; aay het thea vietbitaeis 10-C,_ 14-A-a, 30-A, 40-B, 40-C-a, 40-C-b 25-A, 46-F. 37-B-b, "45-J Betula PAGE 323 324, 326, 336, 339 323 323 324, 339 120, 124, 126, 128, 145, 173, ae 190, 296, 305, 314, 335, 174, 323, 338 140, 319, 331 129, 130, 151, 163, 166, 174, 181, 187, 190, 197, 207, 284, 290, 310, 317, 326 146, 326, illus. 174 180 242 196, 204, 206, 252, 336 235 303 303 126, 130, 162, 307, 323, 327, 329 245 197 133, 182, 212, 284 124, 125, 170, 174, 290, 328 123, 125, 146, 289, 291, 316, illus. 335 133 213 212 244 244 244 244 244 264, 266 264, ce 212, 331 204, 208, 223, 233, 234 154, 157, 165, 193, 196, 212, 277, 289, 296, 316, 325 157, 162, 163, 165 323 324, 336, 339 323 324, 336 320, 326, 332 323 324, 336, 339 326 252, 324 323 324, 339 120, 124, 126, 128, 145, 173, bem 190, 296, 305, 314, 335, 174, 323, 338 332 332 225, 233, 277, 331 229 304, 305 62, illus. 41 117, 133, 212, 289, 290 186. 338 Betula NAME Betula alba Jee. shee lenta lutea nspray te) a loners papyrifea. . . populifolia. . . Bitloareony. aw he Bidens frondosa . Biennials Bignonia capreolata . CRINENSISS Joust s36 e's hybrida RCH Ee t Te. ale FAGIGNS Aw) Velde. att 0 oe me (6 Bive) 96: speciosa . ». + + + unguts-catt. . . Birch (in variety) . American White . - Black . . 8 Petitga White ; i. Pyramidal White” mallee aah et UNSs PN (a me Birds St ae Attracted by fruits Cover plants for . Pruitsifor ses se Bitter-sweet. . . . American . “ Chinese ete Japanese . ..-.« Bixa orellana. . Blackberry Lily . Black Haw Bladder-nut . American . IBuropean | osteo BladderSenna . .. Blanket Flower. . . Blazing Stars es) cel si ns Bleeding Heart . . . Wilde com rte le ce Bloodroota e. arenite. ne Blnebell ese cees) ia Blueberry . Stee High-bush Low ie) % Blue Flowers. Perennials . Shrubs ; cs Blue Lily-of- -the-Nile ae Bluet Ce Creeping Mountain . Bocconia cordata. Caio Boggy soils, Plantsfor. . Boltonia, Aster Uke asteroides . . Broad-scaled . latisquama Bombax ceiba. . Books, Bibliography of. Border Planting. . Collected native shrubs . Low-growing shrubs oom @ Medium-growing shrubs ‘ Tall- SROWIEE shrubs Refined lawn areas Low-growing shrubs Medium-growing shrubs ~ Tall-growing shrubs Botany, Books on Bottle-Brush. . . Bougainvillea (in variety) : braziliensis. 5 glabra sanderiana 386 GROUP ies 16-A, a me ate Sav kolaes Oo, Fao AS OMY Aa ag a Lae 21, 22-A, 24-A-a = Ghosh viet rit 2i, D6-A-a 44 12 A aA 21, 25-A, 26-A-a . . 2 « « 45-L, 46-G 10-C, CTA, 30-A, 39, 40-8, 40-C-a, 21, OCR 26-A-a 46-F : 25-A, 46-F. | sts tants PAV 26-A-a, 44-E-b aaa 14-A-b, 16-A, 16-D-b-l > 21, 22-A, 24-A-a a Pe mmr tae 22°A, 44-C-a Gh tea ile, eee wine tte 7 DE ae a a eae aot 30-D-a, '20-D-b 20-D-b, 24-B-c, 39, 45-G 20-B, -B, 20-C, ae 2E-«, 34-C, 34D, 45-L 18-B, 29- E-c, 34D, 46-G 43-D 30-B, 45-J . 16-B-b, 19-B, 27 ; 42-B-a . 13-B-c, 20-A, 20-B, 28-A, 45-H-b 20-A, 45-H- b. 3 19-F-b, 20-A, 20-B, 40-B, 41 29-G, 31-B-h, 31-D, 31-F, 311, 32-A, 32- H- -a, 43-I, 45-1. 24-E, 31-C-a, 31-E, 31-G, 45- J - 31-B-c, 31-F, 40-A . . ; 15-C, 31-B-g . : 28-B, 29-C, SUB, 31-C-b, 40-A : 29-H, 31-B-a, 45-J. 20-B, 20-D-a, 24-A-a, 30-A, 33-E-b 22-B, 24-B-b, 44-C-b. TY oo WRG ee 31-B-a, 31-B-e, 31-B-i 19-H, 43-F-e . . . 16-C 29-H . 45-A-a . 15-C, 31- B-e, Sieh cn 31-B-f, 31-E, 31-K-c, 31-M- b 24-A-a... 3 31-B-j, 31-E, 31-F, 31- E. 31-B-j, 31- E Sues ot Le 31-B-k . - 31-B-k. . 43-B-b. . TS 13-B 13-B-a . IS-B-Dis ethan. Wetec mec ean owe TBO Ee achat hoo Osinnsiba cae TS=AR Urctiise ident ct ie aretedne: Pure are PS=ARa i eA Nae a Sine WS-ASD +25 Ret ncre OU np Anat age ome ke ieee LS-A-C1 Nr cs. ace ee ee ee 45-F-d, 43-JeDe oc ee ems 16-C, 43-J-c a Me siaen Reins 43-C-ai ie 43-C-a . Bougainvillea PAGE 135, 144, 147 338 173, 314 169, 173, 180 169, 189, 315 ’ 169, 186, 189 343 212 233 303, 332 303, 332 332 207, 260, 261, 303, 332, 338 303 311 117, 133, 212, 284, 289, 290, illus. 190 169, 186, 189 338 186, 338 169, 189, 315 135, 144, 147 169, 173, 180 173, 314 166 166 211 165, 166 166, 182, 284, 327 162, 163, 187, 207, 261, 314 332 151, 207, 261, 338 304 212, 331 145, 155, 193 297 131, 162, 163, 197, 329 162, 329 158, 162, 289, 293 209, 226, 229, 230, 232, 240, 246, 309, 330 184, 227, 230, 231, 331 223, 230, 289 140, 225 198, 205, 223, 228, 289 209, 222, 331 163, 166, 180, 212, 253 173, 182, 314 290° 222, 224, 226 159, 307 146 209 319 139, 224, 232 224, 229, 234, 235 180 226, 229, 230, 232 226, 229, 230, 232 Box NAME Box, Dwarf . . Be wie ike Golden J apanese . STi madre Handworth’s Tree At |e Tree . . Sih raw wed bts ARCLOLIAND ey. fom rion eee Brachycome tberidifolia . Brambles. Brickwork, Vines for Bridal Wreath . . . ‘ Van Houtte’s. . .. sigs Lord Penzance aienaeh eae Evergreens : Broussonetia a daha uckeye . . Buddleta (in panety) davidt . AWE Sweet-scented A VENCIGNG - Buffalo Berry . ... Canadian. . ... Bugle SRI ret ae rect . HG Bulbs, Articles on Kkson . Bulb Culture. . . Characteristics of bulbs: Depth for planting bulbs; Fertilizers for bulbs . . Forcing bulbs. . . . Mulching bulbs ; Rekedurtian ofbulbs | : Soil and deatiage require- ments eRe Time for planting bulbs. Treatment after flowering Bulbs, Discussion of uses for . Best varieties for forcing For forcing in soil ; For forcing in water. . Narcissi for different locations Naturalizing in woodland and wild gardens. Refined lawn and garden areas Tulip combinations Cottage. . Darwins. | . Double . Single Bull Brer Cork-barked . Butomus umbellatus . Buttercup Double. . Butterfly Flower Butterfly Weed . Butternut. . Button Bush. . Z Buxus (in variety) . ° japontea aurea. sempervirens A sempervirens handworthi suffrulicosa 3 387 GrRouP 12-B, 15-A, hiicatha Ges lt 45-F- b. 45-F-d . , 40-C-b, 43-E-b, 45-B-a ; 43-E-a 16-B-a, 16-C, 37-B- -a, 44-G, 45-B-2, 5-H-b P 4 32-A, 32-E, 32- ai) a2. 20-D-a, 30- "A 34-B 13-A-b,: 19-A, 19-G- b, 42-A-a, 45-F-c | 12-D, 12-E-c, 12- E-e, 13-A-b, 17, 19-B, 19-G-a, 19-I, 24-B-b, 38-C-a, 42-A-a, 45-F-c, A6-Coa tii: ‘ BAN ANS 37-B-a 20-B, 20-D- -b, 37-B-a. 33-E-b . 43-B-a, 4 ABE SLED GeV el ha Sells 39 INN Ray Roe Teer iaktew: ASC WA ALON Bnet loth cai wee 11-B, 20-D-b, Seog com okie 12-A-b . SRT ABE deo 8 Us 12-C, 27, 28-A 12-A-b, 12-D, 12-E-b, 12-E-d, 16-D-a, 12-E-d, 26-A-c, 33-E-b, 42-A-a, 44- ‘A-a 31-H, 45-F- ie porte. a 42-A-b. A 42-A-b . t 19-D, 19- H, a7. A-a, 40-B 12-E-b, 12-E-d 12-E-b, 12-E-d, 25- B, 26-A-c, 29-E-a 28-B, 29-A, 29-C . 31-B-a . oee eee ee we oeoeee ee © wo eee eee e © « @ oecee eee & @ b. 15-A, 28-B, 29-C ; HAND Mis 37-B-b . AEC RRAR Tt eh he ene 13-B-c, 20-A, 20-B, 20-D-b, 22-C-a, 2-A-a Cerin 14-B, _16-B-b, 20-B, 22-C-a, 31-L-b . 30-A 15-C 32-A, 32-E. 31-C-a, 45-I 3 40-C-a, 45-H-a_. 13-B-b, 20-A, 24-A-a, 42-A-a 16-B-a, ti Sra res anne 45-B-a, 40-C-b,. ‘43-E-b, 45-B-a . 12-B, 15-A, 45-B-a, 45-F-b — ‘ Buxus Pace 124, 138, 320, 324 324 326 290, 305, 320 305 145, 146, 277, 316, 320, 329 240, 242, 244 166, 212 ? 2 129, 154, 159, 297, 326 125, 126, 129, 149, 155, 158, 159, 182, 281, 297, 326, 337 277 163, 166, 277 252) 301, 327 284° 321 120, 166 124 125, 193, 197 124, 125, 126, 147, 181, 187, 291, 296. 313 124, 126, 149, 163, 181, 190, 253, 296, 313 a 325, 329 591, illus. 226 156, 159, 276, 289 126 126, 187, 190, 207 197, 203, 205 270, illus. 351, 366 ree illus. 350 2 138, 197, 205 277 131, 162, 163, 166, 174, 296 129, 135, 145, 162, 173, 338 131, 162, 180, 296 145, 146, 277, 316, 320 324 290, 305, 320 326 124, 138, 320, 324 Cabbage Palmetto NAME Cabbage Palmetto . . Caesalpina pulcherrima pulcherrima flava Calaba Tree. . Caladium. . Calandrinia umbellata Calcareous soils, Lilies for Calendula officinalis. Calla palustris Callicarpa (in variety) « americana . : purpurea . Callistemon (in variety). lanceolatus . ‘ Callistephus chinensis HOTensis| Gs Callitris robusta . verrucosa . Calluna vulgaris vulgaris alba P Calonyction aculeatum . Calophyllum calaba . Caltha palustris . palustris flore pleno Calycanthus floridus. occidentalis . Camassia esculenta . Camellia japonica Campanula carpatica carpatica alba . medium . medium calycanthema ‘alba medium, pink sta persicifolia. persictfolia alba persictfolia caerulea pyramidalis P pyramidalis alba . . Camperdown Weeping Elm Camphor Tree . . Campion, Autumn . Seaside. . Red Camptosorus rhizophyllus Canangium odoratum Canary Bird Vanes i ss Canby’s Mountain Lover . Candle-nut a hi Candytuft Evergreen . Rocket. Canterbury Bells Cape Jasmine Fortune’s . Veitch’s Caragana (in variety) arborescens. frutescens . A microphylla . . Cardinal Climber Cardinal Flower. Blue. Cardiospermum halicacabum Carex (in variety) Carissa acuminaia bispinosa Carnation . Carpet bedding, ‘Annuals for Carpinus betulus betulus fastigiata . betulus globosa. caroliniana. Carya (in Nene) alba 5 aquatica ° angi Salicaehornss ovata pecan . 388 GROUP 43-B-b . ie ars Wh eitivell pat ye 43-F-d, ‘'43- J-b. S3-Bac ge eee eee Leathe 43-B-b . eae) tate atlas 35-A-c, 351 Bec. Ace sie 24-E. 32-A, 32-H-a 31-L-b. . 44-G 43-F-e, 45-F-a, 45-G . 13-A-a, ais 20-B, 45-F-2, 4o-H-b . 43-J-b . ; 45-F-b 13-B-b, 24-C-b, 27, 28-A, 37-A-a, 40-B, 43-F-d, 45-F-c, coma sicls . 45-F-c . ss 36-B 43-F-b, 43-H, 45-B-a, 45-F-b, 45-H-b 15-C, aig 31-B-e, 31-D_. . 32-F-a . 15-A, “O4-A-b, 23-B 43-B-b . 32-A, 32-B, 32-D, 32- ree el 15-C, 29-A, 29-F, 31- 2g b, 31-M- “2, 33-E-b, 46-B-a Sone 32-G-a-2 . 31-B-e, 31-B-f, 31- _B- -2, 31-3. 43-E-a, 43-F-a, 45-B-a, cas 45-F-d, 45-H-b, ee 5 2 45-F-d. . 45-F-d . 42-B-a . 12-E-b, 14-B, "19-B, ‘19-F-b b, 24-B- b, 25-A . 75 areas dik aot b. 31-B-g, 31-C- “2, 31-L-¢ 31-B-e. . 32-B-ais ee: 30-b, 31-L-B . 43-D, 43-J-b . 34-E-allenee ee 43-I 32-G 12-A-b 14-A-b . 16-B-b . 5 12-C, 16- Pe 22- B, 28-A, 40-C-a . 40-C-a . 22-Diae 45-H-a 45-H-a. BB-G-awiie 3 pocage sc Unene cans 45-Heal ty kei tel coher ce , 16-A, 1GB-b, 16-D-2, 40-C-b ; Carya PaGE 302 307, 310 307 302 265, 266 184 257 240, 245 234 316, illus. 230 BOtdaa oak 128, 130, 162, 323, 329 310 235 131, 182, 193, 196, 276, 289, 307, 325, 337 325 270 306, 308, 320, 324, 329 139, 204, 224, 229 224 Core 233 138, 181, 197 301 240, 241, 244 140, 204, 208, 223, 235, 253, 336 244 224, 225, 233 305, ,306, 320, 325, 326, 329, 126, 135, 155, 158, 181, 186 126 242 225, 227, 235 224 242 212, 234 304, 310 305 309 243 124, 144, 145, 146, 291 135 145 125, 146, 173, 196, 290 2 Caryopteris 389 Ceratiola NAME GRouP PAGE Caryoplertsincana . . . Bae ao ae aE ie 128, 146, 159, 226, 323, 329 incanacandida . .. . 31-B4 BR GiReN Ger Moin tart aif}. Ee BYU Cassia corymbosa . . . . 45-F-c, 45-K-b a heat heh aE AOs OOS ECS ELUT |S ARSC ana eae ae = ASAD Tle, red ti vatebay hgh ure, denied 302 Yellow . a eee 43-B-b . SF ieee bad Asks Rea 302 Castanea (in variety) Casuarina equisetifolia . Catalpa (in variety) 212 301, 302, 310 43-A, 43-B-b, 43-J-a . a 155, 167, 284, 298, 316 10-C, 19-C, ae: Sa 42-C, 44-G bignonioides . . . . 24-C-a. . Ny bignontotdes nana. 16-B-b. . ale eee re 145 bunget . 14-A-a, 16-A, yo Oe cS ¢ rd 133, 144, 322, 328 Round-leaved 14-A-a, 16-A, 45-E, 45-H-a. . . 133, 144, 322, 328 speciosa . . 20-A, 23-A, 37-A-b . . . . 162, 177, 276 esrerini dc cre} SP is) Mert fe 20-A, 23-A, es i Satie Slat Sav at, at peta 162, 177, 276 BSAPEDEVA ec si ke) arte 31-C-a. . ay CaN ae here 227 Alpine . te, ome 29-F AN ives 208 Catesby’s ‘Andromeda . 28-A, 29-H, 33- E- b, 45-F- “b. Aten (2 196, 209, 253, 325 Catmint . 3 ols OE eg Paks ot 15-C, 24-E. SVT Rene 140, 184 CattleyGuava . ... . 43-E-a Rye 305 Ceanothus americanus . . . 13-B-a, '18- B, 27, 28-A, 42-A-b | 130, 151, 193, 196, 297 (ONES A AS Nene 45-F-a. . 323 | Cedar ae biebly ke 44-F 316, illus. 78 Blue Virginia . SU oy MEF Tats 16- ~ 44. D, 45-D, ASE. an ie 144, 314, 322, 323 Columnar Tufted. . . . 9-A, 16-A . Pea lich ua Rec 111, 144 Compact White . .. . 45- D ase die LES Inti, Mees Oh oe yey) 322 Globe Red. . 9-E TAME) Rabe eh acoldan ys natty cham eran 114 Incense,—See Incense Cedar Japanese . AS=ES=Dy ADD Riek areas ak eal Palos 302, 322 Lebanon, —see Cedar of Lebanon. SRA TEAAR ; « Vie Aciassie it My a 45-D, Fa = -a, 46- a -a 322, 331, 339 Mt. AtlasSilver . . . . 45-D ye en rh eA 322 Pyramidal Red aire Me 14-A-b . 135 Red meee le se Were 9-A, 9-D, ‘l1- A, ‘12 en 14- A-a, 16-A, PAS AS TSS 125) TSS a aAs 166, 181, 186, 190, 207, 281, ae 313, 314, 320 11 111, 135, 145, 147, 323 305 20-D-b, 24-B-a, 25-A, 26-A-b, 29-E-a, 38-C-a, 43-J-a, 44-A-a, 44-D, 45-B-a Rocky Mountain sive: ! Oe AEA oul ah Vira CAMs V1 PRK Clery Clee ; 9-A, 14-A-b, 16-A, 16-D-b-2, 45-E . Celosia argentea . Plumed_. Celtis mississippiensis occidentalis . sinensis. Centaurea americana cineraria E cyanus . impertalis . e pty res LYINNOCATPA Fs 8 macrocephala . montana Centranthus ruber Century Plant... Cephalanthus occidentalis Cephalaria tatarica . Cephalotaxus (in variety) drupacea : Sortunet. harringtoniana ‘fastigiata . Cerastium tomentosum QGeratiola ericoides . . . 10-B, 11-A, 20-D- fav 20-F, 26-B-a, 43-B-a, 44-C-a, 44-E-a, 45-C . . . ACN alae way Peay con earn ahha Saat SERA ne meer me Repan sot Ly 32-G-b-1 3 peek ‘82-D, 32-H-a, 38-C-a 5 32-A : 32-G-b-1 ant tie 15-C, 31-B-e, 31- 1 45-J 43-I 13-B-b, 20-A, 24- Aca, 42-A-a a 31-B-h . LS MOA a yA bAbides | tit weg 0s 45-D, 7S © Be EE GOR Reg MES 15-C, 24-E, 29-B, 29-F, 29.6, Bit B-b, 31-H, 31-M-a ABAD y Wie Pan nerte Ragin Ng Schott’s Red f suttine Southern Red BECAN ot Asm EAs of) Bie Wiayh Ves hee) Weegee! atl cipal veraheh ce Spreading Red An AY pew ooh oak Tar eA EPO) he ge fe 151 Wrestiindian) (0... 3 ASAB-D yee Ay fon vie eae Oke | dee od 302 AVLOTTED i eat a a a 24-A-a, 45-E . Hee ys es 180, 323 Yellow. . Oe ete ae 16-B-a, 46-H-a 145, 339 Cedar of Lebanon | | .; 43-B-a, 45-D, 45-K- -a, 46-H-a 301, 322, 331, 339 Cedrela, Chinese. . . . AEA. ta Nib hie fe dante) 1% 328 odorata Sn Pay bs ee 7s el alo Bi Reh ree Pen ar ee 302 sinensis ee et at meses of AEA AW TED eA tie MRR Vee) Jee INN Faby Ae 328 (CRATES, Ae Ram ee Pela rs 37-B-b . Stal WA eR) het aie 277 Cedrus ailantica . yy tt es 45-D, 45-K-a, 46-H-a eee ue 322, 331, 339 allantica glauca. . wltt 45-D 322 deodara. Tee be 43- = oe " 45- B-a, 45-D, 45- E, ‘45-K-a, 301, 320, 322, 331, 339 46- y - libani . 43-B-a, 45-D, 45-K-a, 46- H-a 301, 322, 331, 339 Celastrus (in variety) 20-D-b, 24- B-c, 45-G. 166, 182, 327 angulatus 45-L ; : 332 orbiculatus 18-B, 28-E-c, 34- D, ARG 151, 207, 261, 338 scandens 20-B, aor ~C, 25- Grit 29- ie 34- A.C, 34-D, 162, 163, 187, 207, 261, 314 246 246 321 117, 119, 165, 167, 191, 301, 314, 315, 321 321 240 244 240, 241, 245, 280 240 244 225 139, 224, 232 331 309 131, 162, 180, 296 225 139, 184, 204, 208, 209, 223 231, 235 Christmas Rose PAGE 140, 208, 226, 235 399 GROUP 15-C, 29-F, 31-B-i, 31-M-a . Ceratostigma NAME Ceratostigma plumbagtnoides Japanese Flowering sas Japanese Pink-flowering SA, 19-E-a, 33-€ CAV ol sy itis Cercidiphyllum japonicum . 14-A-a, 16-A, 22-A, 45-E_. 133, 144, 173, 322 Cercis canadensis . . . 11-A, 13-A-c, 14-A-a, 19-A, 19-E-a, 129, 129, 133501545 157s, 22-A, os 41, diecihiots 43-B-a, 4 44-G 291, 293, 296, 301, 316, Cereus triangularis . . . -» 43-C-a . 303 Cereus Vine . . aha 43-C-a . 303 Cestrum aurantiacum . . 43-F-c . 307 CLEANS oie a iycen ec as ees 43=F-D Sak. Soren | tog eon 306 Yellow. . Sie ihs 43-F-c . 307 Chaenomeles japonica rt cite 12-A-b, '14-B, 19-A, 19-1, 22-C-b-1, 41, 124, 135, 154, 159, 174, 293 43-F- oy 46-A-a, 4 46-E 306, 335, 337 Sinensis . aoe re AB-BACs cheery Set entrap | et ne tonnes 325 Chalcas aniculata Bead trates 43-D, 43-F-a Ly fom Tage te 304, 306 Chalice et Ma | ts 43-C-a . eRe eth G5! 303 Chalk Pont) 5 g 715) IPR AI RAONG POR” eis Wate SVS ANH IY Is Bm 330 Chamaecyparis (in variety). x pare 42-E, 44-G, 45-B-a, 46-H-a 133, 298, 316, 320, 339 ericoides A ° 5-1) 322 Wausonsana) enon eal ute OC. 14-A-b, 45-D, ASE, 46- Ab, ae Ha a 113, 135, 322, 323, 335, 339 MmOOLRGLERSIS, + i. foe) ath os vs 16-B-a, 46-H-a. 145, 339 ODIGSGN) ee ans nee ice 9-A, 9-B 111, 112 obtusa nana . ba a 9- E, 15-A, 16-B-a. 114, 138, 145 obtusa nana aurea. 9-E, 15-A . 114, 138 pisifera. Ao ee ne 9-C, 45-D 113, 322 pistfera ‘filifera. ‘ 9-B, 45-D . mb bar 4 pisifera plumosa . . . . 9-C, 12-A-a, 45-D aes ute 113, 123, 322 pistfera squarrosa Bases 9-B - a cea os cote 112 thyotdes . 24-A-a, '45-E A UBASS 180, 323 Chamaedaphne calyculata 18-A, 26-A-c, 29-H, 33-E-b . 151, 190, 209, 252 Chamomile 37-B-b . 277 Chaste Tree. . . 16-C, 19-D, 19-H, 40-B, 45-H- > 146, 156, 159, 290, 329 Chetranthus allioni . 24-E ae 184 chetrt . Sie 32-E, Ae ae 242, 276 Chenille Plant : Pose 43-E-a, 43-F-d, 43- qi: Moihet chi 305, 307, 309 Cherokee Rose . . . . A3-C-a 5 se O ole okt cee te 303 Cherry 20-D-a, 39 ent 165, 284 Geruins Laurel 43-E-a, 45-B-a, 45-H-b, 45-K-b. 305, 320, 329, 332 Cornelian . 12-D, ae ~ ib, ef, a 44-G, 12550157; 181, 193, 293, 316, E Double-fi no j es uropean Double- OPERNE.: BE RNC LG HOItN ioe -C Evergreen . : AeHb AEE iets ch hoc 329 Flowering. . re 42-B-a, “44-G | 293, 297, 317 Hybrid European Bird - 14-A-a, 24-B-a . 133, Islands : i 45-H-b 329 154, 157, 250 250 Japanese Weeping ee ‘ flowering 33-C 250, illus. 223 Rose-pink F) lowering 33-C 250 Sand : 26-B-a 191 Weeping 14-A-a 133 ees Sand aes es 19-E-a 157 Wild PR A ac 30-A : 212 Wild Black go niahe 26-A-a, 38-A . 189, 279 Chestnut . 30-B, 39. 212, 284 Chinese Flowering 19-C, 42-B-a 156, 297 Chickweed K 30-A, 30-B. . 212, 213 Chilopsis linearis Pao 45-H-b, ASK 329, 332 saligna chee a esl SG: (a 2 Ce 328 Chimaphila maculata eines its ae 33-E-b 197, 252 umbellata . ate 33-E-b she Ub PS uc Nee 252 Chimney Bell-flower ewes 31-B-e, 31-B-f, 31- J... SLRS TUM se 224, 233 China Aster. . SD-Atr aaah Gt ee te [en uirsth tol olin ce 240, 242 Chrysanthemum- -flowered 32-H-b BREE adi ger Pry Mal tact area 246 Early Half-dwarf 2 42-H-a UNE, We ae. Veet N cay ek ce Ne as 245 Late-flowering 32-H-b Se Vee aay et hd aie cis Siete 246 Quilled 5 Sts 32-H-a : Pri Fb dbeth each ct ie Ge 245 China Wood-oil Tree... rN BA eto OR AUN ONS ao oe Chinese Pine . apes ee 43-B-a eles tat sia'l ) ve eda Mean ean 301 Chinese Sweet Shrub 45-F-a . ete po eleatiy telig Meare aS, ile) Bas 324 Chiogenes hispidula. . . . Bo OWA Ro eid Bad RO Eon eps od 252 Chionanthus retusa. . . 14-B 135 virginica PUA Ws 13-B-c, “14-B, 17, "19-B, 19-G- -a, 20- B, 131, 135, 149, 155, 158, 162, 22-A, 42-A- -a, 43- F-a, 45-H-b .. 173, 296, 306, 329 Chionodoxa (in variety): SG-Pea) ai nips Pike) whe Reeder ele hte Male 274 luciliae . : Bios UNE BOP) Neth SREY VCR Reittie’s EAUNIG. irc 270 ones SEN ot Raed ets 2 Alte 20-D-a. . ah eceny 165 Black RNA MAT uct er he 13-B-b, 24-A-a, 28-A, “45-F-c 130, 180, 196, 325 Red etic Ura) ths 13-B-b, 24-A-a, 28-A, 29-H . 6 130, 180, 196, 209 Christmas Berry. 45-H-a. . ee ee 328 Christmas Rose . 29-A, 31-B-b, a4: F, 33-E-b, 38-A 204, 223, 230, 253, 279 Chrysanthemum NAME Chrysanthemum (in variety) coronarium. . coronartum flore pleno Double Summer . Glory of aha Oaks Hardy. . indicum 3 leucanthemum . maximum . maximum King Edward . parthentum aureum oeniun ramen 3 ompon . rei Wr yh Shasta daisy . . . Summer... . Cicuta maculata . Cigar Plant Cimicifuga racemosa. Cineraria maritima . Cinnamomum camphora. Cinquefoil, Evergreen hrub | Circassian Bean Cistus laurifolius Citrus delictosa . grandis japonica Severino’s . sinensis trifoliata City conditions and effect on plants Lists for Cladrastis (in variety) . lutea. sits Clarkia, Broad-leaved : Clustered-flowered - elegams. . . : parrchellay ai fds se Giaysorsy ri Ss Clayionia virginica . . . . Clemgusiy a se ee ite NS apitfolia . . Si Noire ips QO ee a ea a MOUECIGNG (SOL) eh. alk bite Wavidis, sue mmula erbaceous Japanese . ... INOMIGNG <5) ce 8 montana rubra. paniculata . Parsley-leaved Porple 3. lexensts viorna . virginiana hite . Wild ; Clerodendron siphonanthus - Squamatum. 5 Scarlet . ay A hale thompsonae. haiti Sal Clethra acuminata alnifolia lomentosa . . . . Cleyera . . Himalayan japonica ochnacea Climbing Roses, ] Best types of : Climbing Vines . Closed Gentian . 391 GROUP 31-A, 31-B-j, 31-B-k, 31-B-1, ies av I, ar alg 39, ran 43-1 SLB, 31 F, 3-H, 3i- I. 38-A. B 32-G-a-2, 32-G-b-2, 35-B-b . 22° Sta 45 35-B-c 43-A, 43-B. ‘b, 43-E-a, 45-B-a. 33-E-b Ais 19-D, , 1-F- -F-b, 29-A. 42-B-b . : 14-A-a, 19-C, 19-G-b, ee 45-H-a . 32-H-b : 32-H-a Sie B7-Ase oo. 31-B-e, 37-A-c. 5 & GS Mai Aan 31-B-f, 37-A-c 22-C-b-2, 34-C, 45-A-b, shal 46-G .. 46-G Pe tN 34-C, 34-D, 3+, 43-C-a, 45-A-b, oS ele i 5-L : 2 si, 31-H, 37-A-c . 34D, 34-E, 43-C-a, 5-L a4, 34-D, 45-L : 34-C, 34-D, 45-L . 43-D oes 7 UD ten a 43-C-a, 43-J-c. 43-C-a, 43-J-c 45-F-c . 13-B-b, 19-D, "19-G-b, 24-A-a, 26-B-c, 27, 28-A, ee i Sec a aii 45-F-c silbite 45-F-b. . . 45-G, 45-K-b . rw re -b . ae Bah cay Ue Me a OORT OVA NSS Dern on yay ne SERB Ae yh altel ernst hon: ua dite Closed Gentian PaGE 221, 226, 227, 230, 232, 233, 284, 289, 309 244 232 226, 227, 230, 233 2 225, 230, 231, 232 240 279 244, 266 197, 227, 331 266] 301, 302, 305, 320 253 cae 158, 204 305, 308 304 124, 305, 321, 328 118 119 297 133, 155, 158, 173, 328 24 225, 175, 3a, 303, 319, 338 338 338 175, 261, 303, 319, 338 332 303, 311 325 131, 156, 158, 180, 191, 193, eas 276, 297, 316, 337 324 327, 332 327, 332 324 251 260 235 Clover NAME Glover eo sink: Shrubby Bush. White . Cobaea scandens . Coccoloba uvifera. Cocoanut Palm . Cocos plumosa Codiaeum. variegatum hosh .. Coleus. 5 blumet verschaffelti : Branched . ont Va Collected Stock, Transplanting and Estab lishing of : Colours, Bark . Combinations of flowers for. Flowers selected for . Fruits selected for . Leaves selected for autumn . Tulips selected for combina- tions of & 5 Twi selected for Fi Colt’s 5 al ne Columbine (in variety). 5 o) fa S658, a) te ae) Yee) ae: 7 8 © © © © & © 8 «Je, 60 ere: se oe we. 6, ete ew Soames American . Berney California Hybrid. 3) ee & European . a tee Gold-spurred . . .. . iskioutsnletds O: Mig Ae yg Rocky Mountain. . Wihite Pope ag st eee Colutea arborescens . . Combinations of colours Comptonia asplentfolia . Cone-flower a) 0 Ge e's Se Pagplerco ae ese eas Congested City Conditions Conium maculatum . . . Convallaria majalis . . . Goppercleaf 354. Ok te bi Goral=bells iy ccs ca) Red Ae Ack ae Pixar grandifiora che lanceolata . . av awe tinctorta verticillata . Coriaria, Japanese . japonica . Cork Tree, Chinese. 1... Cornel, Red Osier . . . . Cornflower, American . Old-fashioned. . . .. : Cornus (in variety). . ... alba . Rae eS 4 te alba sibirica sirtew a ure ere alternifolia Recs eee copeeira CELT 9 VR Sa ak on CONAGENSIS\ ee Ve CAPUGLG TAG e cs ee Puede OTAU iw mare radia et alcetl a Pts OTIGR TULTAY Weir) ss) ve ROUSO rewire Verio io) tek ts mas Cet cheatin te nuttallt BMuten Thole isu. paniculata. . . . -» paucinervis. z sty wte sanguinea viridissima. . . stolonifera . stolontfera flavirammea Coronilla cappadocica emerus . ie be varia . Corylopsis paucifiora ‘ spicaia. . eee 392 GROUP SOs A cars) mies eee Py AL ay Meal Pie iar 45-F-c Ey os Ah WO Rach ale 37-A-c ; Sea emanate 32°F 335-553, 4o-G-dby oi ce ee ASA Peay ONT Awad! | Carols Okie, manana Ronee ek te 43-B-b Ba aie ce ue yee ae 43-B-b ; 3 - 35-A-a at ddan Mer, REMC omens AS laa oh heh mgs 28-B. she 35-B-c . ive e, tumuate 31-G-b-1, 35-B-c Soa nacre serauee. tare 32-G-b-1 z : sree ¢ a a RE : iOE, 19-F, 19-G, 19-H, 31-5 AP Pa) he 20-B. Sh Vianeieemete Qo) i. eee) Vani sabres Pe eS -C : Svat Mules 31-A, 31-F, 31-1, 31-K-a,3LN, 39, 40-A, 45- a1 eth yen katate 15-C, 31-B- “C 81-C-a : 31-B-c . PY sta ys Whe ayes he, SICA a laath Call ad ehewehee eh Lene webs-Gis Mast otitis Miche a PROS Oo te ae 31-B-c L smith vase Meo. Kel Meee welh Use .31-B-a 31-B-b i eee 20-A, 20-B, 40-B, 41 13-B-a, 24-B-b, 26-A -c, 29-E-a, 37-B-a, 40-C-a, 44-B-a, 45- F-a. i We arte 31-E, 31-F, 31-I, SL-K-a 1-C-a. . MLS Ga OS) eer cs, Lat tle. Dee wise pile 38-A 28-B, 29-C 31-B-b, 31- Cb, 31-1, 36-B, 36-E-a, Sl-A-Cie lh gins : 32-G-b-1 15-C, 30- A, 31- “B-<, 31-C-b, 31-I, 45- I. 15-C, 31-D ct hen: kee te 31-B-h . SARC mare 31-B-h, 31-D, 31-H, SLT bn a chat 32-A, 32- aD: 43-I . 2A coal OS 15-C Se ORE et tay hee he 45-G : 45-G Pate 10-B, 23-A. ah 19-B, 20-B, PER AG Cp he 32-A’ : 32-A, 32-C, 32-D, 32-H-a, 38-C-a . 11-B, 13- A- b, 17, 19-G-a, 20-D-a, ms 24-C-b, 42-A-a sel 19-C, 20-B, 21, ani 8 2 a 19-B, D085. 7) DEA gees S 26-B-c . ae 15-A 2E-Bi 99'C). ho 45-H-b 13-B-c, 14- A-a, 19- A, 20- B22 24-B-a, 27, 28-A, 40-B, 40-C- dis B-a, 44-G, 45-G, 45-H-a . . 19-E-a. Seas 14-A-a, 44-G | 12-D, 19-F-a, 24-B-b b, 21, ‘41, 44-6, 46-C-a 15 CaS Aes wi 19-F-a, 45-F-a. . . 37-A-as Se as 8 46-C-b, 46-F . ol atie ta DS 16-B-b, a © 20-B, 21,46-Ca one. arte Al wots, BS) Bieter, 19-B, 20-B, , 23-B, 46-C-b Gee cy ecthes 14-B, 21 A . 45-A-b. atte sia st pa 45-A-b, 45-F-a. . Se) 0) eer Corylopsis PAGE 212 326 277 242, 265, 303, 310 33 168 231, illus. 230, 294, 310 156, 157, 158, 159, 222 Hes illus. 230 2 221, ee 232, 233, 236, 284, 289, 330 peat 223, 227 2: 158, 162, 289, 293 231 ae oe 190, 206, 277, 290, 226, 330, 232, 233 227 118, illus. 94 79 2 197, 205, 223, 228, 232, 270, 274, 276 244 140, 212, 223, 228, 232, 330 140, 229 225 225, 229, 231, 232 240, 241, 309 140 327 327 117, 177 155, 162, 177, 337 240 240, 241, 245, 280 120, 129, 149, 158, 165, 169 153, 162, 169, 177, 187 ee 162, 193, 196 1 138, 197, 205 329 131, 133, 154, 162, 173, 181, 193, 196, 289, 291, 301, 316, 327, 328 182, 125, 157, 181, 193, 293, 336 337, 338 145, 155, 162, 170, 336 325 316, 170 155, 162, 177, 337 170 Corylus NAME Corylus (in same Msiierhits americana. . Pa a. N WREELEIUB (btn is) vot Wats maxima. Shc maxima purpurea. of thei tine mos . De Renae eae bipinnatus . Cotoneaster (in variety) Cee acuminata. . os Aus: acutifolia adpressa . Box-leaved. Chinese Chinese Prostrate. Creeping dammert dielsiana tee. Gwarscaia . . 2. 6 MOAT UN YC ely teats ranchel? 5. 1s Srigida . horizontalis horizontalts persia 4 hupehensis C . Hybrid. . Hybrid Prostrate lucida . . microphylla . microphylla gracilis multiflora . multiflora calocarpa Pointed-leaved , pannosa : Prostrate . tacemiflora. rotundifolia rotundifolia lanata Round-leaved “eh Ge nV salictfolta floccosa simonst. . . Small-leaved . Spanish . Thyme-leaved. thymtfolia . Bah ee Cotton Gum Sch iror Lite Cotton Tree, Silk Cottonwood, Montene Southern : As Western... AUR Cow-parsnip, Giant. Cowbane. . : Cowslip, English Crab . = Large Rose-flower- Bechtel’s Carmine-flowering Chinese Flowering, River’ S Semi-double. , : Deep Pink-flowering . Flowering. . Low-growing qj apanese Narrow-leaved k Parkman’s. Sargent’s White- flowering ; Scheidecker’s Semi-double Rose-flowering . ay he Siberian Flowering Siebold’s Blush- flowering Western : Wild ae Crab’s Eye Vine. . rye American High Bush Dwarf Bush . . High Bush. Japanese Bush Crane’s Bill . Crape Myrtle 393 GROUP HOUsR Gy DUES eh lis) jos fe) Nyolerie ve 13-B-c, 41 . 24-C-b. . 16-D-a 14-B, 45-F-c, 45-H-b- 32-A, 32-E. 32-A, repel Die eal we 20-B, 22-B, 42-A-a, 45-F-c, 45.G 43-D, 43-F-b 45-F-c . 15-B, 22-C-b-l, 33- -E- 45-B-a, 45-F-b . 45-F-b . 45-G, 46-C-a, 46-H-b. 43-D, 43-F-a, 45-G . 15-B, 22-C-b-], 29-E-a, 29-H, 33- Eb, oe tad cabitd inated ate 20- B 2 13-A-b . 20-B.4, 13-A-b . 33-E-b, ‘45- Fb, 45-G, 46-H-b 45-F-b . 45-F-c . 20-B.. ‘ 45-F-c . é 43-D, 43-F-a ! 15-B, 22-C-b-1, 29-E-a, 29- H, 33- E-b, 40-B, 45-F-b, 45- Be 46-H-b . . 20-B 45-F-d, ‘45- G 46-C-a. 33-E-b, 45-F-b, 45- -G, 46- “H-b 45-F-c . . 45-F-b . 45-F-b , ADRTICAM RAM Oye tl Leuk Ve ae rere he ASE Dictate oh tcie) ike: Mie eid dis is 26-A-a, 45-H-a ht 38-C-a, He -a 24-D . eats 31-L-c . 4 BO=AT he Ms 15-C, 29-F, 31-B-d : 13-B-c, 14-A-a, 19-B, 30- ‘A, 40- Cb. 33-C 19-E-b, 83-C, S7-A-a. 33-C . 33-C CPE OEE, Sa ak pe 19- Ea,’ B7Ad 0/42 aah pire 19-E-a, 37-A-a_. 19-E-a, 33-C, a < 33-C . ° 33-C 20-A, 24- B-a, 2 25-A, 33: 3-C, 37-A-a 33-C 44-E- b. 4 19-E-a, 37-A-a, 45-H-a ; ABAC-a eliaioey he aaa 19-I, 20-C, 46-C- b 12- B, 15-B, 16-B-b, 18-B, 22-C-b-1_ 13-A-c, 17, 19-C, 20- e 25-B-, ae 13A-b, 20-C, | 15-C, 28-B, 31-B-c 16-C, 43-F-a, eee 43-F-d, 4BFe, 43-J-b, 45-H-b, 45-K-b Crape Myrtle PAGE 212 131, 293 182 146 135, eee 329 240, 242 162, 173, 296, 325, 327, 304, 306 325 139, 174, 253 129, 162 324 139, 174, 253 324 129, 162 162 325 327, 336, 340 304, 306, 327 139, 174, 207, 209, 253, 289, 325, 327, 340 304, 306 325, 327, 340 25 326, 327, 336 253, 325, 327, 339 325 325 325 328 302 189, 328 281, 328 183 235 279 140, 208, 224 131, 134, 155, 212, 291 251 157, 250, 276 250 251, 276 251 157, 276 251 157, 276 157, 250, 293 251 251, illus. 222 aoe 181, 186, 250, 276 315 157, 276, 328 302 159, 164, 337 125, 139, 145, 151, 175 130, 149, 156, 164, 187, 193 129, 164, illus. 231 140, 197, 223 146, 306, 307, 310, 329, 332 Crataegus NAME Crataegus (in variety) . . . arnoldiana carriert. coccinea collina . cordate . crus-galli mollis . monogyna . monogyna alba ‘plena . ‘ monogyna punicea. monogyna Tosea monogyna rubra plena oxycantha . Rf Pea oxycantha pault punctata vailiae . le Crevices, Plants for. . Paved areas : Walks . Walls . Crimson Glory Vine Crocus | Mammoth Yellow Cross Flower. . Cross Vine, South American Croton . 2 Crowberry, Black- fruited é Pink-fruited : : Red-fruited Crown Vetch. European. . Mediterranean Cryptomeria japonica japonica lobbi . Cryptostegia madagascariensis A ink Madagascar. Cucumber Tree . Cucumber, Wild. . Cunninghamia, Chinese lanceolata . Side ARN ES SEVENSIS Care i aap ap on ets iae Cuphea ignea. llavea Cupressus sempervirens Sasti- giata = * Cup and Saucer Vine Currant, Alpine . ‘American Black 5 Flowering . Indian, (See Indian-currant). Curving roadway plantings Cut flower garden vs. flower garden A Tein teces Cut flowers Annuals for Perennials for. Cyperus . . alternifolius strigosus : Cypress (in variety) Ss Ae Dwarf Golden Japanese . Dwarf japanese 5 Italian . Pea-fruited Plume-like Thread-branched . Veitch’s Silver Cypress Pine. Cypress Vine . . - Cypripedium (in variety) candidum . . ahs. Cylisus) PTaecox *-teeiee ve) Ue SCOPOTEUS') -\V eikes he Leste 394 Group 11-A, 12-E-d, 13-B-c, 14-A-a, 19-B, 19-G-a, 20-B, Be 22-B, 40-B, tat Ch, 33-C . 33-C : 12-A-b, 20-D-b, 25-A, 26-B-a, 44-A-a . 45-G Sasa 12-A-b, 20-D-b, 26-B-a, 33-C ; 12-A-b, TEE, 20-D-b, nee; 33-C . - 12-E-e 33-C 33-C 33-C co eu s Are aay te 5H Oy OE eOlNChe Oa & 12-A-b,_ 16-B-b, 16-D-a, 16-D-b-, 20-D- -b, 25-A, » 26-B-a, abies : 33- : 43-J-c wi Aa 9 Nave ti 20-A, 45-C, 45-H-a An aalreteeie 32-F-b . Reh Apes 45-E Dh DEP t Tene at ce a Bibs Us, 70M AS-Bai ches Me ihe! Pape es iene tena S 32- G-a-2 é BAN Sant Ger iauae 32-G-b-2, a a I TONS ADD Ab Ale cot bon wal bok Cowon ne 32-F-a, 35-B-a, oe a teratte net Aa 44-A-a.. . Pe Relies oS chs oB 13-A-b, 7s ‘19-B, 19-F-a, 22/B, 37-A-a, 41, 44-B-a . Se Aa eer Won vod Gordes. uidsar o9 ne > . . . 9-A, 9- B, 44-G, 45-B-a, 46-H-a. . 9-C, 14- A-b, 45-D, 45-E, 46-A-b, 46-H-a 45-E : 9-C, 45-D . OOO ww Gi 0 BEE win > a . wo eo Pe -C 19-F-a, 24-B-b, 26-B-c, 45-F-c | Cytisus Pace 119, 126, 131, 133, A, 158, 162, 163, 173, 289, 2 250 124, 166, 186, 191, 313 327 124, 166, 191, 250 124, 145, 166, 191 250 327 illus. 271 208 208 136 207 270, 274, illus. 351 274 303, 332 303 311 187 129. 149, 155, 158, 173, 276, 293, 313 150 237 239 232 234 266, 309 234 133, 298 _ 114, 138 114, 138, 145 322, 323 111, 112, 316, 320, 339 ed 135, 322, 323, 335, 339 113, 322 113, 123, 322 112, 322 112 301, 302 242, 260° 197 180 325 157, 181, 191, 325 Daedalacanthus NAME Daedalacanthus neroosus jp Te variety) Trumpet... Motus Trumpet . Short-cupped havea mrampet <. . Danlia Gi ’ ty) - ahlia (in varie Garden. Daisy, African English. . Mexican Shrub Orange 6 Ox-eye. . . Painted | . Swan River . Dalibarda repens. . Dandelion . « Daphne (in variety). blagayana. . . of eee et eee eee fF eee ® Caucasian. . Cneorum . . Deciduous ataie genkwa Cae ® ahve Lilac-flowered. . . mezereum . 2. « -« Darnel . . shuts Datura stramonium . Dead Nettle. . . . Death Camas Heth iacd Delonix regia 4 Delphinium (in variety) CAGES A ite) nie belladonna. . . formosum . « « geyt grandiflorum album Dennstaedtia punctilobula Dentaria diphylla . . Benda hee eth es Depth for transplanting Depth of planting bulbs o* ® eee fe ee Design Bedding, aos for Desmodium, Siebold’s White-flowering . . Deutzia crenata, ‘Pride of Rochester Dwarf Pink ... gracilis tee Oars kalmtaeflora . . . Large-flowered . . REWOUNERD | 6) Noli eis ia Lemoine’s. . . . Longo ia) os) te Long-leaved . .. myrianthe . Pink-flowered Hybrid purpurascens . . . puis lowered 5 TOSEG | 4) ls scabra . muhen ke Single White > : : Sleriders! |...) ohife, i 20 White-flowered Hybrid . Dewberry, European . Dianthus (in variety) . DATOOIES give), eh Wits caryophyllus . . « CHITEMSIS. | foo) atv to HOG TELS OE ICE heddewigt . . latifolius atrococcineus Napoleon III. . . plumartus aio yse Dicentra eximia . Spectabtlis . . Ce re ee eee . 395 GrRoUP 43-F-e , ate vat ity otis! eette Hitter Wits 45-J _. BNP Sr Meher Uae Athen e SOAS SOB sls euler aly eka Lalita 36-A. Bday akrahiicen Uile\la fea eae 36-B ° ° e . ° ° e . . e 36-A. ill ott eery Mapes 36-A . AY ohh ek Won ia (a eae iS 21S I GRO HEIR ote A TES ME DTIC ph 2 ES EN ES VT ae BI a at heii 32-A Chat hoes 29-A, 29-F, 31-B-, si-J, s1-K-c . Fc. . 32-H-a. . Z, 31-B-h, 38-C-a : 15-C, spe 45-J. 30-A’ ST 39, 42-B-a . ey oe 33-E-b sieht er Wie 45-F-a 15-A, eee ®t ee ee eee Fe ees eee * ee eevee oeee%* ee ew eee 8% 19-A, 29-A,~ eta 42-B-a.. . 33-E-b, 37-A-2, eeereeeeee eoeeeveeeee oeeereee ee eoeeeeee oe0eeweeee eeceeeeeeee . 31-A, 31-B-e, 31-D, 31-H, 45-1 ar een ae 32-A, 32-C, 28: a Ree RR wt BM SEE ii es: : BY PMG SLI Matiioe tay ah Gore RUMEREL BNL WAN eh ge Wick id neha EME 8 oe A eA ann) 43-B-a, 45-B-a, 45-D, 45-E, 45-K-a, AoE Foal) (20) yond Neil hein oad eee 25 ge Bs ho We ge ; 19-D, 45-F-c i i? “D8, 19-G-b, 42-A-a, 44 G. 23- 18-B, 19-E-b, 45-F-c . evaies 12-B, 13-A-a, 15-B, 18-B, 41, 45-F-a, TESA CR A a aa a PBT WBA an MAL ae Dae 13-A-a, 18-B, 45-F-c . 13-A-a, 18-B, 45-F-c . 45-B-D) cl Niei cite 45-B-b. . 45-B-b. . 5-B-b . 18-B, 19-Eb ‘b, 45- Fc. 14-B, 45-F-c . - 14-B, 45-F-c 12-B, hills “15-B, 18-B, 41, 45-F-a, 46-C-a She eT Ae rs eeoeen % @ 31-B-f, 31-B-g, 31-H, "31-1, 31-J, 31-N; 32-H-a 32-A, BE ea Niet McRae 15-C, 24-E, 29-B, 29-F, 29-G, 31-B-c, a OA Re TE aR GM Sl 80 ON SAU a ey aan lan 1a!) Vall ts RSLS EROS I shite Mirai feat Del dlitad re 31-H 15-C, 29- B, 31-B-b, 31-B-c, 37-A-c. 15-C, 3 abies? Ae ! 31-B-c, BL , 40-A Dicentra PAGE 240, 242, 244 140, 319, 331 212 284, 297 253 324 138, 154, 204, 253, 276, 325 331 301, 320, 322, 331, 339 34, 39 67. Plate IX 245 156, 326 156 ee 155, 158, 296, 316, illus. 110 151, 157, 325 124, 128, 139, 151, 293, 324, 321 177 128, 151, 325 128, 151, 325 151, 157, 325 135, 135, 3 124, i, 128, 139, 151, 293, 324, 301 207 221 225, 231, 232, 233, 236, 246 309 240, 280 140, 1 184, 204, 208, 209, 223, 210, 240 © 231 231 an Py 223, 276 223, 230, 289 Dictamnus 396 Edgings NAME GROUP PAGE Dictamnus fraxinella . . . 31-B-g,37-A-c,37-B-b . . . . . 225, 277 fraxinella alba Sick ee SI-Bt ee Rect Petree ieiiat weak is 225 Diervilla (in variety) . . . MSs ate item paired Been tal Pe SU es 149 floribunda Renta FAW a hens 13-A-c . Haars haps Wot te 129 7 PR BAe ore Pea so ab 13-A-c, '19-E-b, 23-B_ Pat oc AS 129, 157, 177 hybrida. . eet Vee 13-A-b, 19-C, 19-I, 42-A-a, 46-C-a. . 129, 155, 159, 296, 336 hybrida luteo-margin CT) 14-B, BR era eles ae 135, 193 Eva Ranke i. tse 13-A-b . ah ge ies 129 trifida . aay se 13-B-a, 18-B, 24-C-b, DQTta ee ee 130, 151, 182, 193 Digitalis (in variety) OY onl ae S128 0G: 05 i ee dere Mim a ee ees 232 gloxiniaefiora Si ee os SINE Ves Na vie aite 4) secon wel gene Be 236 RiGnaslozaee yet: Wen = 31-B-h . Sicite wakes Mie (aren teases 225 PUNPUT CAL Ned fa eh noe. 31-C-a, 51-3 We ee yee ME Sed We ae te 227, 230 purpurea rosea. wl, STSB Cue Varese) wiem [Patt bey hateeti ack ihe 225 Dimorphotheca aurantiaca . , BEM GEES AL igual gate ba) tes 246 Dios pyTOs kat. ame ee an ASG ie ed Bela b ewe ety ee se trbiohe Bode he 327 usreiniana:.) en oe ht 20-A, 45-G, 45-H-a Sen as 162, 327, 328 Dirca palusizgs We 2 13-B-b, 26-B-c, 42-A-a,45-F-c. . . ale 191, 296, 325 Diseases of Plants . . . . ONES OT Ge Nau trey vpsot et. ties hean eee Dividing Perennials. Sia Nib Ps ie viene hein ee gus Rok ete nte 38. 219, 233 Dodecatheon media . ane -C 140 5 15 eas Sil hela = Nok gehe Dogwood (in variety) . . . 11-B, 13-A-b, 17, "19-G-a, 20-D-a, 120, 129, 149, 158, 165, 182, ch : 2 24-C-b, 39, 42-A-a Co Es Wo aoe das 284, 296 19-B, 20-B, cp 2) ae BF 155, 162, 193, 196 ae MG 13-B-c, 14-A-a, 19-a, 20-B, 22-C-a, 131, 133, 154, 162, 173, 181, 24-B-a, 27, 28-A, 40-B, 40-C-b, 43-B-a, 193, 196, 289, 291, 301, 316, Alternate-leaved . . Bloweting. 3 44-G, 45-G, AS iia. SiGe 7 32%, 328, illus. 190 Green-stemmed . .. . 21 2 Ue Grey . at ete hon whet. Be 16-B -b, ‘19-C, 20-B, 21, 46-Ca. oly tee 145, 155, 162, 170, 336 Himalayan hgcesatiey Meare. 45-H-b an ae - ots 329 Japanese sa 2 tes PAA AAG eth ee 133, 316 Oregon tyes, Ue ee sors AG-@- bl 46-Piwe eye 337, 338 Red. etka i arepteay hte Le Ei aike. ret star) wheels ort as 157 Red-twigged Ce ee wie ete lake 169 Siberian ys (ots fea ssi ee 79.C, 20-B, 21, = B, 25-B seo ps bs 155, 162, 169, 177, 187 Silky . Beek BG Fees .« Pea Sige ain eile): Square-twigged Mee. NY Be AB-R-Cus tea ae hale re, Med ee = 325 Dolichos lablab . . . . 32-F-b. . é c+ en ais 242 Doronicum ale Saeki es Sear eee ere hea 5 235 CXCEISUIM, Wit. ot) es es ee SIS Rdge i vee tarts se? vee ts Hick patie 223 plantagineumis: se, oj. Isa Se oe rae pny ee plantagineum excelsum . . 40-A Fe Gest eowee aoa. jet 289 Drabaiazoides 3 4) sk 15-C, OLE. |. EM ine bev a eA 140, 184 Dracaena indivisa at We his 35-A-a, 35-A-b, SEB eC re ine 264, 266 Dracena (in variety) . . . 35-A-a, SD-A=D; 13 0-Es-C ts) eel! fs) I kon he 264, 266 Dragon Head, False . . . £31-B-g,31-E,31-G,31-I ... . 225, 230, 231, 232 Drainage Forlawns's. Juf-1et 22 6c packs oc sy) Vie ulate ees ate He ete 54 (reewpuisees iss ok O te AO re Net Phos ae oe SA DS Dropwort .. wee SI-B-focbieet ete Leas ces eas ee 225 Drought resisting plants aalne DA-TGIW Ca ea) ae Soe tery yd ee 183 Duchesnea indica . .. . AB-ACD eis foo fs yes eri hs. Met ieointe 319 Duraniawrepens 5, |.) 43-D, 43-F-e . . SN ret tanta ae 304, 307 Dusty Feverfew Be eee ate 32-G-b-l . . . a Ren eth me 244 Dusty Miller. re rise ke SAG _-Dal oaks aoe tna ats ee ce 244, 266 Plumose-leaved . . . . SoAG-D- ltrs eA esto tenyre Ursa ek ketene Dutchmanisihiper aes, ) ie) ee 4eR S46 S42 ok Po eee nce 260, 261 Dwarf A ale Tok re ee 43-C-a. . Sa eth sce 302 Dyer’sGreenweed . . . . 19-F- b, 26-B-c, 29-E-a, 45-F-c. . . 158, 191, 207, 326 Ebony, Mountain . é 43-B-b . Pink-flowering Mountain : 43-F-b . Purple Mountain Be sly oe 43-F-e . White Mountain a eae 43-F-a . Yellow Mountain. . . . 43-F-c . = 306 Echeveria atropurpurea ar 32-G-a-l1 . r SfeALBeNSrek Aes US hay OR. Las ve 32-G-a-1 . 5 = aie 243 PIGUCT Fe a wee sien oe) + 32-G-a-1 . : 243 Glaucousieratven'sc 3 2 32-G-a-1 Purple-leayedie tse s |2. 32-G-a-1 i) & ate! 6: jee ae) cee e ye w: -e -(@ = sue 16 owe Red-margined.ms rg 0) 2, 32:G-a-1) : 243 secunda ., ap Hate 32-G-a-1 . . c 243 Smooth-stemmed | | | 32-G-a-1 . : ; 243 Echinacea purpurea . ee S1=C-as> 4. Nee ae arta ise ern ie 227 ES CHANOCYSUSHODGIOIP TE Varo 2.» | B2-E=Dics, 2) a bolas Gee by) ee ok te eee Echinops (in variety) Se Bee ATS a se PRM Ree eA WB, ro ate ce840, titro Sherow te 24-E, 31- B-e Smee gad mkt ame lyoN te), oes 184, 224 Edgings for walks Sees to 17 See era ie a a ea is Bl (err, 124 Elaeagnus NAME Elaeagnus (in variety) . . . MMPUSUIONG 2 a te GS argentea fe elit ake WESEDES Fe Sg macrophylla Hun ie multiflora . ae mulitflora rotundifolia. parvifolia 5 pungens ° pungens maculata . pungens variegata . umbellaia . Bb. Be Elder (in variety) . . . PUEGAETIGAM ist eh) 2) y a: | Wie 125 ee a 5 _DYEIR 5) ee Golden . whew tts BEATER My eo so, et) ve, the Red-berried . .... Southern Dwarf . .. . Yellow. . ot ems Yellow-flowering . . . . Elephant’s Ear . . ; Elm (in variety) . : RICA ats Aiiye, vetoue cel rs Camperdown Weeping Had Ua Columnar. . iB cyad ia RS Se ae Kastipiates. 9 \.0) « <6 Scotch . Au Gls feo Wheatley’ sCorish . . . Wing Areas Elsnolena (in variety) « ays cristata s sr tohe ye Dwarf . 5 ho yige stauntoni Pet cit) vole FoNt hs Emilia flammea . . ie Yira Empetrum atropurpureum : BOUIESON Mee sti a) vs.) nigrum Ba Wier Ghee vie ; Emipress Tree .-. . « 6 Enkianthus . oh het ites perulatus. ENS Entrances, Plantings for ; Epigaea repens . . are Epimedium macranthum . . Equtsctum hyemalis. . 3 Eranthis hyemalis . . . . Erica é ES iNes mediterranea. . . . vagans . EN TA Bel tes Ericaceous plants 5 Erigeron spectosus sue Eriobotrya japonica. . . . Ernajagua, Yellow . ie Eryngium amethystinum Erysimum pulchellum Erythronium (in variety) americanum . Eschscholtzia californica. Eucalyptus citriodora A Eucharidium grandiflorum , Large-flowered Eugenia jambos . seats uniflora pve s Eupatorium (in variety) ay oe ageratoides Eh ent Bee UM 9 3 DELESUNUMU 6 6 D8) purpureum. . . «+ -« sesstlifolium verbenaefolium. . Euphorbia corollata . pulcherrima epithymotdes Evergreens . Adapted to shade in wooded areas. a Atmospheric conditions . 4 PSOOKSIOMAictorcl sls eh Tel hue Broad-leaved 3). <6) « 397 GROUP 21 «lk at arta 12-D, 12-E-b, 19- Fa, 24-D, 25-A, 42-A-a, 46-C-b . 25-B 19-F-a, 20-B, 45-F-c ae Watt urs thy wiae cen ae 45-F-b. . mai at es ied see I ASG Tere eb etl ay By Aik cone dy ey \ay he Herd Aaya A Rage ns An RE PR 2 45-F-c 16-C, 43- D, 43-F-a, 45-F-d,. 45-F-d TAQ fi d 45-F-c . ; 20-D-a, 30-A 13-B-c, 17, 19- Gg Js G- b, 20-B, 23-B, 26-A-c, 42-A-a, 4 6-E A 10-C, ic 22-A, ae A, 38, 44-C-a | 38-C-a . 13-B-c, 19-B, 19-G-b, 20-B Bae Got rity 45-F-a . Bay DAUM Tyr de er ay 43-F-c Vb atiches) joie tol ale 35°Ace,35-Bech os: 4 24-D, 39 10-A, 22-A, 2&A-2, 25-A, 40-B, 43- B- “2, 44-E- “a, 46-D 14-A-a, 45-H-a 16-D-b-l. Sy ieee UN a chee Me 10-B, 11-A, /16-D-a es eka oe Wain ona 14-A‘b . ai es ah at ee 10-A ee high ‘14-A-b, 16- D-b-l. 4 19-D,19-H : 45-F-a 5... se rs ae FI fo rs) @) 6 00). 68) (0) <0) a, eae 19-H, 37-A-b, 42.€, 45-H-a i 46-C-a. . : es AG=G-an Nite Nay yet erie 4 onli eee 18 Ri al 29-A, 30-A, 33- -E-b, 37-A-c, 40-C-a. : 15-C - aS eucmted srs =" i > 43-F-c fot a1: Be, 45-1 29-H le SUNY CNS, ORS fs 36-B, 45- J" re ae ee tee 32-A, 32-C, 32- He ae hahinnne 43-J-a oe 3 : Deed os iin ee ois PE AN Ae 43-D . SUE EA ABN ADE al.) Bite 31-E, 45-I . aah teas tl Cyne 31-B-j, 31-H, ey i D> mane Ra pe 4 31-B-i, 31-I, 31-L-c Aire pl Le RE er ee An er ee 7 ED gy ae ca aa Cet yeti oc eee Evergreens PAGE 170 125, 126, 157, 183, 186, 296, 337 187 157, 162, 325 325 327, 174 325! 146, 304, 306, 326 327 166, 212 131, 149, 156, 159, 163, 177, 190, 297, 338 117, 125, 173, 177, 284, 314 324° 135 281 131, 155, 159, 163 324 307 307 265, 266 183, 284 117, 173, 180, 186, 290, 301, 315, 337 134, 329 147 117, 119, 147 135 117 134, 135, 147 322 2 159, 276, 298, 328 336 336 150 204, 212, 253, 277, 290 140 226, 232, 235 226, 232, 235 Evergreens NAME See Climate . . Lists of. . Low-growing, formal types « Mass planting Most hardy for general u: use . Not generally ria in mid WEStc 914 Planting seasons | |. Protection a Agee Site - Soil Used most in mid-west ; Evonymus (in vepeny.. alatus . . americanus . alropurpureus . bungeanus . bungeanus semipersistens. Climbing A : europaeus . . « « Evergreen. . . . japonicus . . QHOUOHES aoe) ashi a TOUICGNS We ra al oie radicans aculus. . . radicans carriert 3 z radicans minima. . . tadicans vegetus yedoensis . Exochorda (in variety) . grandiflora Exposed sites, Plants for Marusien-. tre americana . SVICGIICE Nu iiet as) ee sylvatica heterophylla Fast-growing types for roduc- ing screen effects Shrubsiics — eens Trees Feather Fleece, Mountain . Ferns (For ground cover) . Dry, shady places Moist, shady places . Ferns (in variety) . . . Boston - Broad Beech . Christmas . Clayton’s sey Goldie’s Wood Hay-scented Ady eee reek sae arcs eo Maidenhair . . . . Royal . Sensitive Sweet . Vir ae Chain Walkin; Feitilisert Annuals. es plants Forcing flowering Plants Lawns—new . . Lawns—topdressin; ng ose Newly transplanted stock Perennials . Preparation of planting a areas Rhododendrons Rose garden beds. 398 Group Pe OE a ties ae eo Te RO A a ee ee 9-C AM is "eet @ @ @ 9-B BO) eh sie 20-D-b, 39, 42-A-a_ 13-A-b, 14-B, 16-B-b, 20-B, 22-C-a, icF 11-B, 13-B-b, 14-B, ci 13-B-c, 20-A, 20-B, aca 4 13-A-c, 45- fe Pat are 22-C-b-1 28-B, 29-A, 33-E-b, 34-B, 34-C, 43-Cb, 45-A-a, 46-B-b, ABC 13-A-c, 14-B, 20-B, 22- sien 16-C, 43-E-b rhage 16-C, 43-E-b 15-B, 18-B, 28-B, 29-C 28-B, 29-A, 33- B-b, 34-B 34+ C, 43-C-b, 45-A-a, 46-B-b, 46-G a ee aes 29-€, 29-E-c, BALENE. Gt Meth zh Ave 13-A-c, 14-B, 19-B, 45-11 : 25-A, 25-B,35-C. . ‘ 14-A-a, 24-C-a, 12-A-b, ae 21, ea, 30-B, ‘40-C-a, i2-D, 16-D-a, 40-B, DR ae a ACN ne ee © © © & @ “eer ee eee ete @ ee eeree a) ite - Po, 29- H, 31-C-a, 31-M- b, 35-A-b, ‘B5-A-c, Bh Rc 4345), - 35-A-c. . Ha do oe BELA 29-D-b . 28-B, 29-D- a, 29-B-b, 33- Eb 93-B 99 Th ast 28-B, 29-D-a, 29-D-b, 31-C-b % Ad oF o o 24-A-a,29-D-b . . .. 28-B, 29-D-b . 13-B-a, 24-B-b, 26-A-c, 29-E-a, 37-Ba, 40-C-a, 44-B-a, 45-F-a. . 29-D-b te Sn iviaw Bike a tte rate oe 29-F | aa Fertilizers Pace 113 illus, 14 ne illus, 62 166, 284, 296 129, 135, 145, 162, 173, 338 120, 131, 135, 131, 162, 163, 174 129, 327 174 197, 204, 253, 260, 261, 319, 336, 338 129, 135, 163, 174 146, 305 139, 151, 197, 205 197, 204, 253, 260, 261, 319, 336, 338 197, 204, 205, 207 151 208 3 129, 135, 155, 329 186, 187 133, 182, 212 ma 125, 170, 174, 123,4125, 146, 289, illus. 335 133 212, 291, 209, 227, 235, 264, 265, 308 206 197, 206, 331 197, 206, 228 303, 266, Fertilizers NAME Fertilizers, Shrubs . Trees—established plants oo! planted Wild garden plants eh i Fescue Grass, Blue. .. . Festuca glauca . . .. EEReREESIY (21) 6) 5). he Mapanese 86 oe sk Mountain. ... . Ficus aurea . nitida . pumila. . ated ey! te . . esi AW) bela: ihe) Ri ete Gea 3 Sich Seed gee I Fig, Barberry . Climbing Share Creeping . y Large-leaved Creeping f Fig Tree. . o Filbert . . . 5 Filipendula camtschatica hexapetala . hexapetala flore pleno . purpurea 4 BUTE edie ihe jie.) toy sie Fir AG aerty) y ae Ns ae Fraser’s Balsam . oe White . ikkKO . « « Nordman’s. Red 050 v. eee . . . Silver... Veitch’s Silver White... Flag, Blue Dwarf Yellow Water .. . Flame Flower . .. . Flax, Perennial . Ae Fleabane, Oregon . . . Flora’s Paint-brush . Florida Flowering shrubs for middle and southern Florida . ae and purple Fruiting ‘effect, ; characteristics Ground cover plants . es Northern Florida - eos plants Lawns for . - Seashore planting. Shrubs Trees Wen Pid wie beens Shrubs for shade conditions. Street and specimen pisuting Northern list Southern list Vines . Lattice and wire ° fences Walls. wits Windbreaks Floss Flower Dwarf Blue . Dwarf White . Flower Gardens . valuable southern 399 Group Pt Ue os a 29-A,29-B. . 2. 1. 29-H,40-B.. é 12-B, 45-F-b . 15-A, 18-A 22-C, 24-A-b, 33- E-, 45-F-b, rial ah 46-H-b, 16-D-a,24Ch . . . 14-A-a, 39, 42-D . 9-C, 24-C-a, 28-A, 46E. 9-4, 9-B, 9-D, 44-F, 46-H-a. Ey i ap ety K st BELO GNA: 9-A, 9-B, 14-A-b, 16-D-b-2, 24-C-a. 9-A, 9-B, ER Eee Ce 5 ASD 9- A, 9-B, 11-A, 14-A-b, 44-F, 46-H-a . 31-B-a, 31-C-a St ate as 7222 BY EUAN ea sah eae 31-B-d, 31-C-a, 31-L-b . . . . 43-C-a, 43-C-b, 45-L Ee Ca ees a) 15-C, 31-B-a . SAM teat cntiiiie une DASE is Mare foie Meee Bs 32-A, 32-C. ; ARM efile Malye i ie (2 he ae Ae ae (2 Eee) She oN een teal BSE seis ie) igi oas AS-Beae ribs Weophalls Asma sence lee ott! AAD IRN ita Mie)siy« ASG he Mice Neha’ ve ASB te the 43- RA ELVEN Sen) 32-A, 32-B, 32-E, 32-G-b-2, 35-A-a, 35-A-c, 43-I Re iss \iealite pM eye Beat 32-G-a-2 . 32-G-a-2 74 45 84 217 204 204 209, 289 124, 325 138, 151, 174, 37, 340 Flower Gardens PAGE 181, 253, 325, 133, 284, 298 113, 182, 196, 337 112, 113, 316, 339 113 114 111, 112, 134, 147, 182 113 339 339 111, 112, 182 111, 112, 119, 134, 316, 339 222, 227 208 224, 227, 234, 303, 333 140, 222 302 303, illus. 367 300 240, 241, 242, 244, 264, 265, 309 244 244 214, 237, illus. 286 Flowering Effects NAME Flowering case aa backs Shrubs . 5 Blue flowers. Continuous bloom from twelve shrubs Red and pink flowers. Early flowering. Late spring and summer flowering. . : Spring, after leaves appear A Spring, before leaves appear. Summer, Early Summer, Late, autumn . White flowers Early flowering. . Late spring and summer flowering . Yellow flowers Early flowering. . Late spring and summer flowering . Flowering plants, Fertilizers for Foam-flower. . A Pontanes fortunei_ Fortune’: cry Forcing, Bulbs for). Shrubs for cue wee ‘and early Twigs for . SPs Forestry, Books Tew aR ae Forget-me-not . ... . Formal effects with plants. . Allees, Trees and Sere fe: Not pleached 3 Deciduous ... . Evergreen’ . : 3. - Pleached ... : Border Planting . Topiary work and close shearing . Soh Beste La Weciduous 7s. ee Everpreen) 5 8s rs Tub planting . . Formal gardens, Perennials to be avoided Spohr thers Forsythia (in variety) intermedia. . intermedia spectabilis é suspensa . ger The suspensa fortunei A - viridissima oie es Saas Fothergilla gardent PQTUSION Gan re ate te Fountain Plantes) -.) uke Foxglove (in variety) . . MKC Ate Petre : Yellow . . Fragaria . . € = Fragrant plants © 3 5 Fragrant flowers. Perennials . . Shru elles MiG a? s Trees. Fragrant leaves Perennials . ks Shrubs and trees | . Frangipani Tree. . . . Fraxinus (in variety) americana . americana acuminata biltmoreana FM. ac Caroleniana a. Ji 6 ae pennsylvanica . Freesia . iit be het a a refracta alba. Peas dite Fringe Tree, Chinese Fritillaria meleagris . a Frost-weedia kc) 48 et Fruit Trees . : Fruit, Vines valuable for 16-D-b 19-E Bs Gaal Pen ee |e foe Men 19-E-a SABE SR AMON hee Wer i bea 19-E-b SRRGM eed Sie Ses 19-B. Bort Ee pe en Nos ne 19-A Boe a. Git echy be 19-C Atv ceh ace luchtebdee scien kc 19-D Shliebiy tier iat dare ee town ws 19-G iiss TORN SR NGT o 19-G-a SON EC Due ake aC 19-G-b ; Bh eo! Mah het nee 19-F Tie te Meee eis 19-F-a Rhett SN ay, Welt stout TO EDs deen eae, va) | eiore fai aout po A NH Snes ag aie 22-C=bal Eb Ne) ens ive.) ke Ape 22-C-b-1 AAs LN Cries Cia ec 36-E . URNS ata Sere A PAA CALL Wyre, tP oe tes SV MANO A he RS a vek -/ EWN Gs Ciena 29-A, 31-B-a, MB ee Bika ics Were ane IED ck ie 16-D-b-1 bey st Re 16-D-b-2 Fieey same emery | 1G-Da Wate ie Me ey teas SGA Whee he. er A IGT RS oo en beh alee IGE PO Se ee TG-B-ais) sx se ecwies emuet eta aene TE RAS kita SL eer 31-E 11-B, 19- Ac 19- F-a, 4i, 42-A-a 44- G 12- iB 3Ac. Ab ees Reece ea tS 17; 29-8, ;45-F-cie BAS he ae 13-A-c, 46-C-a 12-D, alah a, 22-C-a, 22-C-b-1 45-F-a = c alte 45-F-a Hb OLAg SR ons sobre 43-1. 31-C-a, Bie 1, 31-J, 31-N . 31-B-g . : deal SI-B-Dii) fee idan be, te CS en Ree tye © ier «@) (eo 0 e) © i) Th fie i) ‘e! a) 6 “ee “ee: ee le) Je, e Le, fen a @enre Oran) 10- es ie AL Dy apie Stes 6) Sin8 Ce ei Che ett sa . . . 36-B, 45-J. . . ZARB; SO-DY (SPO ic 20-A .. a aris 34-D "3L-C-b, 31-D, 31-L-<, 25-A, 44-C-b, ‘44- B-a, Fruit PaGcE 154, illus. 206, 214, 222, 223 159 157 154, illus. 214 154, illus, 214 155 344 204, 222, 228, 229, 235, 241 141, illus. 159, 174 147 147 | 146, illus. 158, 175 144 229 120, 154, 157, 293, 296, 316 125, 130 129 149 159, 325 130, 336° ey 130, 170, 174 324 310 227, 232, 233, 236 225 28 173, 180, 186, 314, 315, 337 328 321 321 328 274 274 135 271, 331 184, 212 162 261 Fruiting Plants NAME Fruiting Plants . wie Ae Attractive to birds : | : intsummer 3). eh hie In winter . List of birds . Colour effects of . Fruit which attracts birds from other fruits . . Form or size Undesirable because of fruits Winter months . Fruits, Trained . ye Fuchsia (in variety). Ae ocumbens a vA railing . astitetepie Funkia Ga variety) . eters te RUFETIIEEE ire vets le jel. ete oe Sortunet. lanctfolia . Bias i steboldiana = subcordata grandiflora Gaillardia (in variety) . aristata Neh) weal bite ete grandiflora pulchella picta : Galanthus (in variety) . elwest nivalis . Galax oe variety) aphylla ‘ Galium boreale : Game cover plants . Foliage, buds and blossoms (spring cover) . Nuts or seeds (autumn cover) Garden architecture, Books on Gardens, Books on . 5 Gardenia (in sae) florida . Sy tine jasminoides . caine jasminoides fortuniana jasminoides veitcht Garland Flower. . . . AST GS eh eo Gas Plant. ane ae Gaultheria procumbens hie od Shallon. . Gelsemium sempervirens. sempervirens fiore pleno . Genistia tinctoria . Gentiana andrewsi Geranium (in variety) | Bronze-leaved Cardinal Ivy-leaved : ae maculatum c vintetanre Madame Salleroi . Salmon Double sanguineum Scarlet . Strawberry Geum . coccineum . heldreicht . Ginger, Wild Ginkgo biloba. Gladiolus (in variety) Glauctum flavum. luteum . Gledttsia delavayi japonica . sinensis Sahnas hAcne ee triacanthes A Aare a MEG oe 18 Gliricidta maculata . Ard Globe-flower. . . . « » Globe Thistle oe past Ate Glory-of-the-Snow . . . 401 Group 20-D erat ie 20-D-a . 20-D-b BAU oie 20-D-c PPP ore Satay RAE 20-E ahs iat jae ceive 20-A SNRC/OAAN ie elt Kies VaLie Sirus 5 20-F 4 SV AleArrieiic oWt ae = AT ray Rich, Cree ehh cone eel ae , OC eins Cal mie tiieR) os A 35-A-c, eae : fin te fs 35-B-a . Sire GELATO PEER Ere? 0G 35-A-c, fk SERRE Ln R eRaO 2 29-A, 31-M-a, ae 43-I,45-I . . Se, ys. Makan dedi toe aehaae 31-B-e 5 31-B-e 31-B-e . 31-b-f . BG, 31-B-h, 31D, aLF, 3i- I. 32-A, 32-H-a . 1 ae 36-A 45-J 29-H, 33-E-b, 45-J 29-H, ead b, a 28-B. 30 BOA Miah ioe Mele |? al Mest nels de iti PRE in nee we 45-H-b 43-E-a, 43-F-a, 45-F-b, 45-K- b. aes B-a, 45-F-d S-B-Ot Ar ci ptsne Fie Tent al te BSD y ser cut switot kee dita, © os une tess sar ge feng Dcatiee Fe 31- B-f, 31-B-g, 37-A-c, 37-B-b . ae oi -D-a, sitio rire 29-C, 46-B-b, 46-E | 43-C-a, 43-G, 45-L ¢ 45-L 19-F-b, 26-B-c, 29-E-a, 45-F-c | 31-L-c . Bir eh Pe 32-G- b-2, 35-A-a, 35-B-b rae Tia oO 32-G-b-1 . BE Mobi 10.8, 11-A, 22-C-a, 45-C, 45- Hea wes eae, 45-I 24-E ° 10- c 12-A-b, 20- A 20- F, 24 D, 26-B-2, 37- “A-b, 45-H-a 43-J-a 13-A-a, 19-F-b, 21, 31-B- d, 40-A, 40-B, 41, 42-A-a, 44-G, 45-F-c 24-E, BIER -CAS- Trice gsla aa Loe ene 36-A, 36-E-a Sy nevael Vial tony tte sy urreiag Glory-of-the-Snow PAGE 265, 266 265 309, 253, 331 209, 253, 331 329 305, 306, 325, 332 320, 326 326 326 138, 154, 204, 253, 276, 325 253 » 325, 277 138, 165, 180, 204, 205, 253 336, 337 303, 308, 332 332 158, 191, 207, 326 235 244, 264, 266 244 117, 119, 174, 321, 328 231, 274, 330 321, 328 117, 124, 162, 167, 183, 191, 276, 328 310 128, 158, 170, 224, 289, 293, 996,317,326. 184, 224, 330 270, 274 Gloxinea 402 Hardhack NAME GROUP PAGE Gloxinea, Hardy . ABST oi docn ah Wrelunonn re ebay acer ree bet ie 330 Coats Beard Gin variety) . é 31-B-f, aAbiy inca Be HS AN 224, 227, 234 False . . i 30-A AR Ree clad 212 Siberian 31-E 230 13-A-a, 15-B, 29-H, 31-B-h, ‘45-F-a_ 128, 139, 209, 226, 324 11-B, 19-A, 19-F-a, 41, 42-A-a, 44-G . 120, 154, 157, 293, 296, 316 Gold-flower | Golden Bell (in variety) Dark Green 12-D, 13-A-c, 21, 22-C-a, eee : 125, 130, 170, 174 Drooping . 17, 19-1, 45-F-c . . asi 149, 159, 325 Fortune’s . 13-A-c, 46-C-a_. Sigh esate 4 : 130, 336 Hybrid 12-D, 13-A-b, ASAE Mosk els é 125, 129, 130 17, 19-F-b, 42-B-a . . . Golden Chain : AST ae re Sc see 4a, ak Golden Dewdrop . 149, 158, 297 cocre ee ee oe & wp © ow F cece eee . Golden Feather . Eos Dab ala trash hecbcou so aie atnere fs Golden Glow. . 31- 4 230 Goldenrod (in variety) 0 SUB 1, 31-C-a, 31-E, '38-C-a, 45-5 x 227, 228, 230, 281 Blue-stemmed. . 5 28-B Loam) shake peerage hae 198 Sharp-leaved . . .. . 28-Boee Seatts Was eee he Mee 198 Showy tee eae aia ie DEB ie teketal ted Mien ieee ance 198 SWaMip er cer recl iene elias DAR AA yaks Won JeeAt i eiaanen Ver eke ans 180 Golden Sei Bie Sis 28-B Stara : 197 Golden Tuft. . . ogee 15-C, 29-A, 31-B-d, 45-1 SAL Yok Medel ire 139, 203, 223, 329 Gomphrena globosa : rite 32-A . AUS Det ae 240 Goodyera pubescens . a aR 29-F, 29-H_ SHRP ay eekhael Rice Meee eOO) Gooseberry, Wild . fy ta 44-A-a, 44-B-a nah eer rare te 313 Gordonia lastanthus . ae 43-B-a, 43-B-b, PicN oe pean tne Pip Ye .2 aoe 302, 305 Gorse mitre ; AG=AED ales Wes 5 ese te 33: Goutweed . : Saths 29-C < Pia 205 Grape (in variety) F wre 20-D-a, 24-B-, BCU UL Re poe 166, 182, 187 Evergreen. . . os 43-C-a . Se nueteAKS Cais? 4 303 Grapefruit . . . ewes CED hae ne Ee seen 28 a 304 Grape Hyacinth eens SG6-Al iene. Naver Rea Mea tie 270 Grass seed mixtures. . . . Sah Miey UGE pteridine (iow Saptari a 55 AGTAGSES PSU Tee kien Gertie) Copnaed LrMeEL Ne fet) Nerrafen as leg mist re K 240 Greenbrier? ois S50 Ve se! De S0-As AS-Caia be Totes eaees 212, 303 Prickly . ayes te 22-C-b-2 i Vetat aan; + ah ile Mine tateln tie 175 Gresiliea qohisiay:, SSL. ume 43-A, 43-B-b . . Ee aes ea ‘ 301, 302 Ground cover . aoa A RL ey atk vax ek tiem iets eh een 199, illus. 270 Annuals used for. . . .- DocEss) bp bret. ace xeon ene Heh 40 Crevices between stepping stones, Gtes., ih is) os) Mie DORR S hike Sire law pres | lex!) Mel aos calc aiass 208 Dry locations. . athe ORES Ne gt. handily ort elon! a: Peete 204 Eebenknents and tocky slopes ene es DOTS Hey) nena kely Wa : Perennials . . . . 29-E-b . ahs, Vhban tey hacen Mizou fa nay | erate 207 Shrubs ipo wes a cles 29-E-ale) 5.) ees hte Ve sek ol 206 WANES Hird hh teh ok Slo! Ms Page BO a IG Ie irtte ahoutie eg 207 Ferns . Sr DOR ae cls tah acre onelmasr t Malia ven fies Mate 205 Dry, shady places . ee ae 2O-Da ees efor he sou eh ah bee take 206 Moist, shady places z 29-D-b aly oa a Lbvahsl ha tkathekes (aay ice 206 Moist locations . . . . DORA Te ath wa Ref aibeaty Jee men een 203 Open, sunny exposures . . DOA ds, hes cae eh eal) rei We Mad = Netra 208 Rhododendrons and Azaleas. DOSEL CA acon teaep cil el fo Sitovei ete. vette 209 Roses . aay Son alps DO- Ee civic) wotetay hits Yet h tele hein Meth ivareme 210 Shady locations |... 7S CORRE Pe te HEN Meanie eke teh acy, Ma 205 Groundilviy a0 Shes) hen ney 29-A, 29-F, 35-A-a, 35-A-c, 35-B-a é 204, 208, 264, 265 Groundsel aS hee 31-C-a, 31-L-c. és 5 Serene 2A Ps Groundsel Bush. 2: ]. 19-D, rir 43-D, 45-F-c Pits ORM 5 156, 190, 304, 325 Guinea-hen Flower. . . . 36-B. : PAIR Hh Gumi . Regie oof ABS a ean oe tn Ro ee Round-leaved 2 2... Pee 4 oS ee ed Smee a ee 174 care ke Z 162, 328 Gymnocladus dioica. . . . 20-A, 45-H-a Gynerium. Sh) ASE ase SY eke Ae Ses Gypsophila (in variety). he dt PTET GA NE A BE nN at 330 elegams. . . ee 32-AL SoC aoas Dy eit cen ee coe ane 240, 241 UT GUS i hee eae eee 32-C Beat Oats 241 DUVACKIGIS Lene tee eter COL Ls-15 S17. 450s: ha ee ee. pee, Oooe ane Habenaria ciliaris . . . « ABT av coat het See cae ean thei cea 331 Hackberry ogee cee hal Torah OOM Ol Pea Me Monts a aucn tecahibege) keNmmetnattay ay Meese Ghinesem sich ma es SSS Boe ray oy tren hl elt Rab ela taer omen Sewde 327 Southern ... eset s 45-C ORE See eiay cumeets Pear 2 321 Halesia (in variety) St Gir 42-B-a . ‘ 297 carolina . & ee WA Re 14-B, 19- B, 19- Ga, 24-C- b, 45-Ha 4 135, 155, 158, 182, 328 tetraptera . ; 44-G 3 Bae 316 Halimodendron halodendron 24-D, AS Re lee vite: SAR ey 183, 326 Hameliaveretian sys 43-1); /43-B-d)49-E) oe) are ele) leuanne 304, 307, 308 Sphaerocarpa . . . . . 43- F-c, ASSET cat Wl ME ES ART MeL Re oats 308 Hamamelis japonica. . . . 19-A,19-F-a . 154, 158 DIT LITNGNA ate kate Veen 13-B- c, 19-D, 92-C- -a, 24- B-b, 24-C-b, 131, 156, 174, 181, 182, 193, 27, 28- A, 30-B, 42-A-a. 196, 212, 296 Hanging Baskets . eis 35-B : 265 hack (in variety) . hs 19-E-b, 25-B, 29-E-a, 42-A-a, 44-B-a , 157, 187, 207, 297, 314 Harebell NAME Harebell, Carpathian = hel wea Haw, Vail’ ae he ‘eable Red- flower- Double White-flowering . oe English. . . ‘ Indian. . Aegis see Pink-flowering pulitted/ ee Single Pik eH wae! We Hazel . Flowering . 5 Japanese Flowering ‘ Purple-leaved A ae Hazelnut (in variety) Heath (in yee), + : Cornish . Ave Mountain . Heather, Pink Scotch. . Southern ; Aes White-flowered . . Heavy Effects onre Hedera canariensis . . [UTES SR Aa SR ee eevee eee eee e helix conglomerata. . . .« helix lobaia. - edges Barriers, Hedges fot 3 Hioiding leaves during win- Not folding leaves during winter. . Bleak exposures . . Close shearing . . Fruiting hedges Late foliage. Bene Shady places . Ay Unsheared hedges . 3 Edgings for walks and garden borders . Privacy Windbreaks and for solid screens Hedysarum coronarium . Heeling-in plants . . . Helentum (in variety) . autumnale . i autumnale superbum 5 Riverton Beauty . A Helianthemum (in saneby) canadense . chamaecistus . . . . croceum . : Helianthus (in variety) . angustifolius annuus. . Ste Helichrysum bracteatum. abe PACLIOUSES te ae hae we Heliotro Ri atihel, o6 2 Blue Garden . Garden. . Heliotropium peruvianum Queen of Violets . tegale . . er rth yet Hellebore, Green eh Wied aie Helleborus niger. . « «© « Helontas bullata. . . . . Hemerocallis (in doraaes Sie SEE Fale SLOAN TaMeL tay t's thunbergi . . - Hemlock, Canadian. Carolina Dw: 403 GROUP 15-C, 29-A, 31- 31-B BID [hh 31-B-e, a1-B-t. ie a cen, 45-G Pte . . . ° ceeee . ee eee . 19-F-a, 45-F-a. 14-B, 45-F-c, 45-H -b” 13-B-c, Bea 208 29-A 15-A oa enite ales githan tae 26-B-c, 40 40-C-b, 45-F-b, 46-C-a je 45-A-b. EN hter ES ei a Ns A ee aR Pe eee eee et ee ee eee . ee . ee ee eee ee 28-B, 34-B, 35-A-a, 35-B-a, 40-B, 43- Cb, 4 43-G, 45-A-a, 45-L, 46-B-b, 29-C SAT hie let his UNM yatee Aleit all fara trewnae 6 DORA ee rik lama Sek atte 12-A-a ath hat) Lidia ta, oe tealse 12-A-b Siete aCe Mise Mele 12-E . TE Rav iol whew ai at \gtene lakes 12-E-b . RL at Crete rep any van unte 12-E-d Pole ted Veit ees es! er pe 12-E-a a iateite eka?! ween aien leanne 12-E-e . Seilot Ay ci ata ed ie ial comers 12-E-c . Ae San egal BA a 12-B ritaiet eronive 3 12-D e SU arteiehs Ve 12-C a AN eee 31-J 2 31-K-c, 45-1 a es 31-B-l UNS Wa 31-E, 31- Bi Sits Ph hak A ae 31- B-l, HTS uD eae Pr Maen Aa a 24-E, 45-I He ORO RESON Nats ta \ 30-B 4 28-B, 33-E-b | 15-C, 29-B, 31-B-d, 31-K-a . 31-B-h, 31-C-a, 31-E- Sut, 31K, 31-M-b. 45-1 ARE: 38-C-a . OEM en Pei aed hiol verkll nah deoarid Westin ae MMe ie darth ent ei! Oe aye eedr be 31-B-h. . ah Wraline Alese sag 35-A-a, 35-A-b . Shanta sorb \ Abie 32-A, 32-E, 35-A-a, 35. Ab. ame 32-H-b 38-A.. ne 29-A, 31- B-b, 31-F, 33-E-b, 38-A afin 24-A-a, 29-H, 31-L-c, 45-A-a_ . 31-B-h, 31-C-a, Sialhiet 31-M- b aa I. 37-A-c . 4 31-H, 3i- L-c, 37-A-c « 31-H - BTN ae) 9-A, 9-B, 9-D, 12-A- -a, 12-C, 14-A-a, 16-B-a, 20-D-b, 24-C-a, af ae a 5, 40-C-a, 44-F, 46-E . 9-A,9-B,12-C . o-E Hemlock PAGE 139, 204, 224, 229 224 327 135, 325, 329 131, 212, 293 204 138 209 336 eat 291, 324, 336 197, 260, 264, 265, 289, 303, 308, 319, 333, 336, 338 197, 253 140, 204, 223, 233 226, 227, 230, 232, 233, 235 280 240 240 226 240, 242, 264, 265 244 246 240, 242, 264, 265 244 246 279 204, 223, 230, 253, 279 180, 209, 235, 319 2, 227, 230, 235, 309 77 231, 235, 277 231 277 112, 113, 124, 125, 134, 145, 166, 182, 193, 197, 213, 290, 316, 338 112, 113, 125 114 Hemlock NAME Hemlock, Globe Sargent’ s Weeping Western. Hemp-tree, Cut-leaved Henna. Red-flowering. Hepatica (in variety) triloba Heracleum mantegazzianum. Herb gardens, Books on Hercules Club Herniaria glabra Herniary. . Hesperis matronalis . Heuchera (in wariety) brizoides sanguinea. . Hibiscus (in variety) Chinese moscheutos 6 moscheutos hybrida SUTAACUS a vot tela syriacus ardens Tosa-sinensts . .« Hickory 45/0. “‘e INutmeg) i.) is. 1° Hillsof Snow . . Hippeastrum Hippophae rhamnoides : Hobble-bush 5 Holly (in variety) American. . Dahoon . . English Japanese . . Mountain. . Small-leaved . Hollyhock Holodiscus discolor ariaefolius. Honesty . Honeysuckle | Brown’s Dutch |; Early Fragrant Fly Bush . French Heliotrope Japanese Japanese Bush Large-fruited . Late-blooming Prostrate . . . Purple-flowering . Standish’s Bush Tartarian . White Tartarian . Vellowi sic. Zabel’s Hop Tree. 6 6) 1001.9, Fe) 8. B16! 8 9-E e e . 9-E Gehaaes 14-A-b, 46-H-a 42-A-b. . . AS-B-al ti ts 43-F-d . 28-B, 29- rel 31- C-b, 40-A. 28-B, 29-C, 31-C-b, 40-A ey Crea a se JG ae B, 20-B, 43-F-a, 4-H cays We rs ZOAAG “fei Se ye Shes iene 29-A . Sica cen 31-C-a, 3T-A, 451. bile “2 @ ee cere. Tore “ses @ ee “ee ee “28 @ @e . ° eae 15-C 15-C, 3LB, s1-Cb, "31-H, 31-1, 45-I. 43-F-a, 43-F-b, 43-F-d, , 43-J-b . 31-B-j, 31-B-k, 31-E, 31-L-c 31-M-b. 11-B, 12-D, 14-B, 16-A, 19-D, 19-I, 26-B-c, 40-B » 40-C-b, 42-A-b, 45-B-b, 45-E . . aj Aalee 19-H 16-C, 43-E-a, 43-F-a, 43-F-b, "43-F-d, 43-F-e, 43-J-b . toy re 22-B, 38-C-a, 2 40.C-a a alter Ch ee bere . 45-H-a . By Sete eel het a OAS wacom Fos teks ob wch oe Men rena sues 43-I. . . 12-A-b, 12-E- ‘d, 497, 20-B, 24-B-b, opohe 33- E-b, Ne, 44-A-a . 44-G, 45-E, 45-G 2s. eee 20-B, 20-C, 20-D-b, 40-C-b, 43-B-a, 43-B-b, 43-D, 43-J-a, 5B, 45-H-b 43-D 45-B-a, "46-A-b, 46-H-b 16-B-a, aes idea a6cA -b, 40-1 . 26-A-c , Soest ie 12-B oe 31-B-g, 31-B-h, SLE, 31-N, 39. 1-J ris D-a, 20-D-b, 34-A, 34-C, "42-A-a 5-A-b . . 13. B-a, 18-B, 23-B, 24-C-b, 27, 45-6 ° 22-C-b-1, sea ase - 46-G 12-A-b, 17, 18-B, 19-A, 19-F-a, 22-C-b, 37-A-a, 4l, 45-B-b 12-E-e, 37-A-a 31-J 29-E-a 18-B, 22-C-b-2, 24-B-c, "24-C-c, 25-C, 34-E, 43-C-a, 43-G, 44-G, 45-A-b, 46-B- b, 4 46-G . . 13-A-c, 19-B, 19-G-a, 20-B, 46-E ass 18- B, 29- E-a, BT Aa 4. 12-D, 13- A-c, basen 5 Senko Poe 29-B-a . A St ied. Sh T eT 45-A-b. Se 19-A, 22-C-b-1, 45-F-c 12-D, 13-A-c, 16-A, 19-B, 19-I, 20-B, 26-A-c, ay 42-B-a, Sih Sa teats 2c, 16-D-a, 22-B, 28-A, 40-C-a | 12-A-b, 16-A, 16-B-b, 16-D-a, 40-C-b | Den, '30-A, 30-B, 40-C_a | : NAS eee . . . . Hornbeam PaGE 114 114 135, 339 297 306 307 197, 205, 228, 289 197, 205, 228, 289 235 344 120, 162, 305, 327 204 204 227, 277, 330 212 140, 229 140, 223, 228, 231, 232, 330 316 146, 305, 306, 307, 310 a 230, 235 23 120, 125, 135, 144, 156, 159, 191, 289, 291, 297, 321, 323 159 146, 305, 306, 307, 310 173, 280, 284, 290 ° 328 155 309 124, 126, 149, 163, 181, 190, 253 313 » 2 ? 316, 327 163, 166, 291, 301, 302, 304, ao 320, 329 320, 335, 340 145, 163, 320, 335, 340 190° 334, 225, 229, 236, 284 337 233 165, 166, 260, 261, 296 320 130, 151, 177, 182, 193, 327 we 303, 308 124, 149, 151, 154, 158, 175, 276, 293, 321 26, 276 207 151, 175, 182, 183, 187, 207, Bee 303, 308, 317, 320, 336, 130, 155, 158, 163, 338 139, 151, 207, 276 125, 130, 336 207 320 154, 175, 326 125, 130, 145, 155, 159, 163, 5 193, 297, 313 281 125, 130, 155 149, 186, 191 242 242° 261 284 125, 146, 173, 196, 290 124, 144, 145, 146, 291 174, 212, 213, 290 135 Horse-chestnut NAME Horse-chestnut . Common Dwarf . Himalayan. Red-fiowering Wilson’s Chinese . Horse-tail Rushes . aad Varieties « Houseleek Alpine. . Spiderweb . ‘ Houstonia caerulea . serpyllifolia Hovenia dulcis Hunnemannia fumariaefolia Humulus japonicus . lupulus. lupulus japonicus . Hyacinth (in variety) Summer. . Hyacinth Bean . Hyacinthus candicans . Hybrid Broom Hydrangea (in variety) . arborescens arborescens grandiflora arborescens sterilis. Climbing . 5 Garden? i.) 6. |. hortensis Japanese Large-flowered __. Large-flowered Wild : Oak-leaved . P opuloides hortensia opuloides otaksa Panicled paniculata . paniculata grandiflora petiolaris . . ee. Hydrastis canadensis Hydrophyllum appendiculatum virginicum. . Hypericum (in variety) aureum buckleyt Calyernum Bos eh s denstflorum . . .« glomeratum . . « kalmianum. moserianum nudiflorum. patulum henryi prolificum. . . Iberis amara coronaria . sempervirens membenaia. | 8 Ilex (in variety) APG aquifolium By doithts cassine . CNG... Blabrae ee. Ne microphylla . . OPGEB Cera! 6) a>) specimens . Any te verticillaia. . . «» Illustrations, List of. Impatiens balsamina biflora . . pallida . sultana 3 Incarvillea delevayi : Incense : . 405 Group 14-A-a, 19-B, 39,42-C . . . . 10-C, 11-A, 20-F . PU art Lc 14-B, 19-G-b, 42-B-b. 45-C’ 3. Re te ne 24-E, 29-G, aig G Baebes Cutis 32-G-a-l | eSieyiah tet Sh 29-F, s2-G-al A Wignhy 29-H atl sey oh dye 31-G i a 14-B, 16-C, 19- G-b, 26-B-c, 39, 42-A- b, 43-F-b, 43-F-e ake 13-B-b, 19- Dy 27, 28-A, i2-Aa. 26-A-c, 45-F-c. . 9-C 34-B, 45-L Ne obizeld Seah o a pea te Ba Wi icy) Vert aren fr BUSTS tah 43-F-a 19-D, 19-I, 24-B-b 26-A-c, 4 45-F-c. 22-B, 27, 45-F-c, 45-HLb. wale 45-F-a sip bie tis 16-C, 43- F-b, 43-F-e 19-D 19-D . Wwe 19-D, 19-1, 24-B-b - ) 22.8, 27, 45-F-c, 45-H-b. 13-B- b, 19-D, #, il A, 42-A- a 28-B . 29-C 29-C. Suanaths vale bes 19-D, 19-F-b | eriptes 13-B-a, 33-E-b, 45-Fac.: 22-C-b-1 28-B, 29-E-b, 29-H, 45-F-a 24-A-a . Soe Tare 45-F-a . 5 yeah ne 4 26-B-c, 28-B Aa, 15-B, 29-H, 31- Bh, 45-F-a 13-A-a, 22-C-b-1 y ; 45-F-a. . 5 32-G-a- 15-C, 39-A, 29-F, °31-B- b, 31- M-a, 33-E-b, 46-B-a, . Sine 32-A, 32-B, 32-D, 32-G-a-2 . 44-G, 45-E, 45-G . A 45-B- a, 46- ‘A-b, 46-H-b . 16-B-a, 20-B, 45-B-a, 46-A-b, 46-H-b . ray cid b, pee Bs 29-H, 40-C-b, 12- 3 : Biren dale ea ad os 20-B, 20-C, 20-D-b, 40-C-b, 43-B-a, 43-B-b, 43-D, 43-J- ree 45-B-a, 45-H-b 43-B-b . 13-B-c, 20-B, "20-C, 20-D-b, 24-Aca, 26-A-c, 28-A BOAT Rc eel Hg me a ge SENT ae LG Lik oe al en Ta SM AE paeHy nee OF SoBb. se ee 43- B. b, 45-B-a, 45-D, 45-E, 45-K-a Incense Cedar PAGE 133, 155, 284, 298 117, 119, 167 pose 158, 297 306, 30 131, 156, 193, 196, 296 190, 326 155 260, 333 324 306 306 156, 159, 181 190, 326 173, 193, 326, 329 324 146, 306, 307 156 156 156, 159, 181 333 173, 193, 326, 329 131, 156, 193, 196, 296 156, 158 130, 253, 324 175 197, 207, 209, 324 180 324 191, 197 128, 139, 209, 226, 324 324 128, 175 324 244 140, 204, 208, 223, 235, 253, 336 a 240, 241, 244 316, 323, 327 320, 335, 340 304 145, 163, 320, 335, 340 124, 131, 145, 209, 291, 325 124 163, 166, 291, 301, 302, 310, 320, 329 302 131, 163, 166, 180, 190, 196 3 302, 320, 322, 323, 331 3 135, i ae 191, 284, 297, Indian Bean NAME Indian Bean. 9. <=. . Dwarf . Ey A ean Nola ive Indian-currant Ste eo is Indian! Paint.) esi atone) wus Indigo, Blue. . . . Pialsey han ten ine i . Tennessee False . - Yellow False . . . , Informal Effects . .. . Inkberry cee ee teh aly ce woe Insecticides . Insects, Plants subject to . Introduction ‘ Arrangement of the material Evergreens and their adapta- tion . Grouping of plants, ‘method and reason . ye elage The purpose of e Tniies and method of ' using ; Method of treatment. . Method of using the book Range of material .. Range of plant adaptation: in general... : Ipomoea (in Variety) hederacea purpurea Tresine herbsti lindeni . [rissa American Dwarf . Celeste Crested cristata Dalmatian Diseases of . European Dwarf . Percuizingy oie ts) as foes aptamer weet lorida ‘ ; German (in variety) - germanica . germanica flavescens “ germanica hybrids. germanica Kharput . . aL a aa of May ‘ hexagona = Japanese kaempfert . Lime for Oriental orientalis ae dalmatica . erman . Planting pseudacorus pumila . pumila azurea pumila hybrida Rotting i Siberian stbirica : Jrareplanting of. verna versicolor fronweed Itea virginica Iva ciliata ive. Algerian oston . Carrier’s Japanese Evergreen English. Henry Hytge Japanese Evergreen. 406 GROUP 10-C, 19-C, 20-F, 24-C-a, 42-C, 44-G . eho, 13-B-a, 17, 30-8, 20-D-a, 20-D-b, 24-B-b, 26-B-e, 27, baad 44-B-a, adele! poscieians r ye] Wenn bile Abs tuabits 31-B-e Er “19- ! "31-M-b, A2-A-D, 45-1, 45-F-a 31-B-4 . AI ae SEN Ss 0 12-B, 13-B-b, 16-B-b, 29-H, 40-C-b, 45-F-b . gay, ee ee SOD i ae hace ee 31-A, 31-K-b, 39, 40-A, 45-1 29-F. eae 31-H . 15-C, 29-F, 31-B- -a, Sih, 45-A-b. 15-C, 29-F, 31-B- a sheb Brie 31-B-e. . 31-B-a, 31-B-d 29-A 43-1. 31-B-a, 31-B- d, 31- F, 31- 1, 37-A-c . 31-F, 31-I, 37- SLBd. ; 31-B-a . 31-H . 31-B-c . 43-I.. : Apne eiec 31-B-e, 31-B-f, 31-F, 31-I, ks a Be 31-B-f, 31-F, 31-H, 31-I, 31-L-c 31-B-a, 31Ca 38-C- art 39, 45-A-b, 46-G 28-B, 29-C, 34-B, 35-A-a, 35-B-a, 39, 40-B, 43-C- b, 43- S ae ay 4oL, 46-B-b, 46-G . : 45-L 28-B, 29-A, 29-C, 29-E-c Ivy PAGE 117, 155, 167, 182, 298, 316 145 129, 130, 149, 163, 166, 182, 191, 193, 207, 314, 324, 337 330 224 130, 159, 235, 297, 330, 331 323 223 148 124, 131, 145, 209, 291, 325 76 A OhWOARR DH ea 4 244, 266 222, 233, 284, 289, 330 208 231 140, 208, 222, 228, 320 oe 208, 222, 228, 320 284 222, 224 113 204 309 222, 223, 230, 232, 277 230, 232, 277 223 222 231 223 309 224, 225, 230, 232, 235 ies 225, 230, 231, 232, 235 235 235 224, 231 223 39 224, 227, 234 208 222 224 39 224, 225, 227 224, 225, 227 90 208 222, 227 281 130, 151, 180, 191, 276, 326 a Zoo, 284, 319, 338, illus. 335 197, 205, 260, 264, 265, 284, 289, 303, 308, 319, 333, 336, 333° 197, 204, 205, 207 Ivy NAME py Kenilworth . arge-flowered ‘Kenilworth | Lowe’s Boston. re mnited J apanese Ever- gree el ewved English. é Small-leaved Japanese Ever- green Summer Ixia Ixora . ere BECERHEG iSite) oe GELS Ty Sen a PHOT ENUCO, oa 0) <0) rosea splendems . . . Rose-coloured. . . . MCAMED oc so. s NOMINEE a eign te RCM W ete eet ie Wve Jack-in-the- Ppt ais ve Jacobean L Jacob’s eaaier, American | Jamestown Weed . . Japanese Gardens Books on . Japanese Raisin Tree Japonica , Jasmine . Cape, See Cape Jasmine . Carolina. Wi anes Carolina Yellow | Catalonian. Confederate FADES SON cule ‘5 Double Yellow . Naked-flowered . New Chinese. . Orange. . Red Coral . Jasminum (in variety) « grandifiorum nudtflorum officinale primulinum . Jerusalem Cherry Vine” Jewel-weed ais Joe-Pye Weed | . Juilans cinerea. ss nigra wee steboldiana June Berry Juniper PAIN Chinese . . Common x WAIT rey iel icine Golden Aaa ane ee ee ee A ee PRISM ei yes ere Sav: Saver-tinped Chinese Slender Greek P Juniperus (in variety) « barbadensis - chinensis chinensts albo- -variegata chinensis pfitzertana . communis . communts aurea communis depressa communis hibernica communts suectta. . . CXELESES MPN ta) ,!)en |v) cee te excelsa stricta . horizontalis . horizontalis douglasi « 5 lucayana prostrata Hite 407 Group 15-C, 35-A-b, 35-B-a eta WA EFAS Me ire Ue ih gradi tial Je 34-B 18-A, 29-A. i aoe re, PA ee a ar a a w ve > = . : ; A 31-C-a, 45-1 38-A 45-H-a | 43-F-b, 43-H, 45-B-a, 45-F-b, 45-H- by 44-G, 45- F-a, 45-K-b, 45-L . 43-C-a, 43 ag Ms 45-L. 43-C-a . 3 43-C-a, 45-L A 16-C . ee ne pete Maas 45-L Ba iyih ah eit ia! lanes 19-F-a, 43-F-c, AGAR Ces A3B=B-c) 46-Goh aN cine le | 43-D, 43-F-a . Lokgs 43-F-b . 44-G, 45-F-a 43-C-a 19. F-a, 43-F-c, 46-G . 45-L 43-F-c, 45-K-b, 45-L, 46-G 4 35-A-b, 35-B-a, 45-L. , 30-B, 31-N 31-C-a . 40-C-a,45-H-a . .. 38-C-a, 40-C-a . .. : C1 Ee GAS Oe Sune eae 4 13-A-b, 17 i 9-B, 39, 42-E A 45-E 9-A, 15-A, 24-B-b, 25- a 18-A 9-A A 3 9-C, 45-E 4 eG ‘ Ee be S.A IS°A, 2 26-B-b, 40-C-a SAG be Wi PRGA ON i hae Nay SAVE A): 9-A 9-B, 20- ‘D-b, 29-E- “a, 42- E, 44-F 43-J-a A Ab“ Binvat net uen anal apes Wiehe era EEO ANG dig ON AL ea 9-A BO hist Amen Meat nanan sth ast 9-A, 15-A, 24-B-b, 25-A. . 9-A SHeSAIMM as Wh ter Lite 18-A . . Cleat Tac Ieee San a) oeeeee 328 306, 308, 320, 324, 329 317, 324, 332, 333 303 158, 307, 338 333 307, 332, 333, 338 129, 149 112, 284, 298 323 111, 138, 181, 186 151 111 113, 323 144 111 111, 138, 191, 290 323 111, 147 135, 144 111, 151 111 112, 166, 207, 298, 316 310 323 323 111 te 138, 181, 186 Juniperus NAME Juniperus sabina . . sabina tamariscifolia . scopulorum. . . . virginiana . virginiana cannarli virginiana glauca . virginiana globosa ‘ é virginiana pyramidalis . . virginiana schotli. . . virginiana tripartila . . . pUsticia, BUCH Me oa, des Kadsura Tree . BU urs he Kalmia (in variety) Suis GNEUSIOUGW ee) ely carolina oh) fet Pala TRADING “oa Se aS polifolia 4 Kentucky Coffee Tree : Kerria (in variety) . japonica Whitey 375 te) oe Knapweed . ob Raiphone pfitzeri deg (TUE te MG A ee Knotweed Koelreuteria (in variety) paniculata. . Kudzu Vine . ots hic Koum@uat.y cea ieee ete te ve Labrador Tea r Narrow-leaved . Laburnum vulgare Ladies’ Eardrop 5 Lady’s Slipper . . Small White . . Lady’s Thumb . Lagerstroemia indica eee ee wo @ Lake front and river conditions SHMIDS i ie, ewe : URTEER Ay Ts AY Stew re Vines . Shiba aa Lamium maculatum™ er GNA Ba eee hele eo oe | rosea camara sath Sees 1 Lantana . tall Baal ig dete Larch Arne one Dah ik Buropeanis i... eu ee Japanese . eh wb heels Done (in variety) A europaea 5 Beer LOTICENG aed ta) fo Arvid, keine LEDIDIEDIS ce Meet cttts Larkspur AI iat et ice, 180 ANNUALS pve ae ice | test ex ute Chinese, oe se § Everblooming a aes Lathyrus latifolius . . . . odoraitus . RNWer 8 cine Laurel (in variety) SiNiie whi setani Carolina ta Sites b50 Matss English. . aleaierieties aay English ae Seis ae Indian. . a Mowe cae Japanese Yas vc ss Mountain) cee ae Portuguese. . SHEED eines 408 GrouP 9-A, 15-A, 26-B-b, 40-C-a . ... rine: Pe FOURIER EO bss OM 9-A, 9-D, 11-A, 12-C, 14-A-a, 16-A, 24-B-a, 25-A, 55-A-b, cua 44. Aca, 44-D, 45-B-a. SLs 9-A,16-A . rae AS 16-A, 44- D, 45-D, A5-E Se are 9-E 3 Si ca eaters fe 14-A-b . : 9-A, 14-A-b, 16-A, 16-D-b-2, 45-E: : 18-A BR PORE he TS 14-A-a, 16-A, 22-A,45-E . .. . 13-B-b, 30-A, 40-B, 44-G 18-A, cui Auie 24- series 29-E-a, 33-E-b, 38-A . Sp let) Rela re 33-E-b . were 19-E-b, 24-A- b, 27, 33- E-b, 38 A, SS E-Die ire aie tet he’ tuo ate BANG NEA Aaah Rp Gor ek ie ie ee 13-A-a, 19-F-b, 21, ae. 41, 42-A-a, AS- FCs 13-A-b, 19-B, 19-G-b, "20-8, 20-C, 26-B-c, 27, 42-A-a . : 5 - 31-B-h . ade en teteais 31-B-1, we. o) te eee te 31-B-k, 31-D, 31- 1 AGT 2) Loe as 31-E, 34-A, 45-L, so oe ene Bee a Ua icd aie acl tah beg oA OS 14- ae 19-C, 19-F-b, 22-A, 24-D, 29. i “Cy 34.6, 34. E, 4o-L, PW eaten Oe 43-D . ais kintieee ss Moree 24-A-b, 29-H, 33-E-b. . . . «. . 33-E-b . snp echiis 17, 19- Fb, 7M 5S aR 35-B-b re tS 28-B.. 24-A-a. C S RLSe reed Mice 30-B. 16-C, 43-F-a, 43-F-b, 43-F-d, 43-F-e, s 43-J-b, 45-H-b, 45-K-b . 22B At-C be. 35-B-a, 35-B-b, AST. 32-G-b-2 32-G-b-2, 35-B-a, 35-B- b, Ce 14-A-a, 39. a, eA Me 12-C, 23- A, Miia +: 12-C, 16-D-b-1, 24-C-a . 14-A-a . : 12-C, 23-A, 24-C-a 24-A-a, 24-C-a, 26- A-b, 40-C-a . 12-C, 16-D-b-1, 24-C-a . 31-A, 31-B-e, 31-D, 31- 1, 31- N, 38-A, 45-1 Soe 32- c, 32- “Hb (ee ay ° Cc. 13-B-b, 30-A, 40-B, 44G 33-E-b . 45-B-a, 45-H- b, 45- ae *b, 46-A-b, 46- Hb 45-F-d . 43-B-b . 16-C, 45-F-b, 45-G, 45-H-b, 45-K-b, 46-A-b, 46-H-b . 19-C, 19-E-b, 24-A-b, 27, , 33-E-B, 38-A, 40-C-b : 46-A-b, 46-H-b 18-4, 19-E- -E-a, 24-A-b, » 29-E-a, '33-E-b, Laurel PAGE 111, 138, 191, 290 138, 151 111 111, 113, 119, 125, 133, 144, ee 186, 190, 281, 313, 314, 111, 144 144, 314, 322, 323 114 135 111, 135, 145, 147, 323 151 307 133, 144, 173, 322 131, 212, 289, 317 151, 157, 181, 207, 253, 279 253 155, 157, 181, 193, 253, 279, 291 253 162, 328 317 128, 158, 170, 289, 293, 296, 326 129, 155, 159, 163, 191, 193, 296 225 227, 231 226, 229, 232, 330 a 260, 333, 338, illus. 334 133, 155, 158, 173, 183, 328 207, 261, 333, 339 304 181, 209, 253 253 149, 158, 297 266 197 180 213 146, 306, 307, 310, 329 197, 228 268, 266, 309 244 244, 265, 266, 309 133, 284 125, 177, 182 125, 147, 182 133 125, 177, 182 180, 182, 1S0, 290 125, 147, 182 221, 224, 229, 232, 236, 279, 330, illus. 310 240, 241, 246 225 230 229, 260 240, 241 131, 212, 289, 317 253 321, 329, 332, 335, 340 326 302 pe cs 327, 329, 332, 335, hy 181, 193, 253, 279, 335, 340 151, 157, 181, 207, 253, 279 Laurel NAME Laurel, Spotted J: apne Swamp Variegated ‘Japanese « é Laurestinus . Rugs Laurocerasus caroliniana Laurus nobilis = Lavandula vera Lavatera trimestris splendens ‘ Lavender ! Lavender Cotton Lawns—. . Books on . Keeping free from weeds Northern Lawns . . Drainage of lawn areas Fertilizer for lawn prepara- tion Preparation of lawn areas. Seeding of lawns Sodding . Old lawns, Renovating of Plantings for . Tor Seasons for seeding Southern lawns . : Planting and seeding Soil and climatic condi- tions as affecting . Types of grasses for . Types of soils . ¢ Lawsonitainermis . . . PROUT de yl KL: hice fat Ale Lead Plant . Po he HBCAG WOE he ica) ve tligh Ue 1 BIRT eas I a A WVIEILE Ete eer wh 8 Je Leather-flower on es Leather-leaf . Leather-wood ves, Autumn colouration of. Leaves, Selected for fragrance. Ledum groenlandicum palustre . Letophyllum . buxtfoltum Lemon Balm LemonGum. . Leopard’s Bane > Leptamnium virginianum Lespedeza bicolor. ‘japonicum . steboldt Leucanthemum . lacustre Leucojum aestivum vernum carpaticum Leucothoé catesbaet Liatris (in variety) . pycnostachya : Scariosa Libocedrus decurrens. Ligustrum Accent purpose amurense cortaclum . ibota tbhota regelianum japonicum . lucidum nepalense . nepalense variegata ovalifolium . A quihout Sinense . vulgare . ; vulgare sempervirens : ACR iy, ciany x Common Double Blue GRouP AG BADE er Via! ds, wile claret slay yep ies SE Deo iyaee Oe Pre eee hae Rage be 5 1D 45-H-b 43-E-a, 43-F-a, 45-B.a, 45-F-d, 45-1, 45-K-b, 46-A-b . 43-D, 43-F-a, 45- E PEs NG-CAbeB Giro el tes fl tieh bite S7-Acclist-B-Dy) ao ree oe oe 32-C APNE ' 37-A-c, 37-B-b 24-E, 29-B, 32-G-b-1, "37-B-b . . . . . . . . . . . . ° . . . . . . . . . . . BEREAN Ma 18-B 4g 15-C, 29-F, 31-B4, 31-M- a. 43-F-e ‘é 18-A, 26-A-c, 29-H, 33-E-b = -B-b, 26- sith 42-A-a, 45-F-c A YH Se c 37-B 24-A-b, 29-H, 33-E-b- 33-E-b. . 29-H cp ie 33- = -b, 45-F-b- 43-J-a Sand 31-4, 31-B-d, 31-M-b, 40-A. 28-A, 29-H, 33- E-b, 45-F-b 31-G 24-E, 31-C-a, 31-E, 45-J 24-E.. 43-B-b, 45-B-a, 45-D, 45-E, ‘45-K-a : 11-B, 12-D, aaa 20-B, 27, heavicns 13-A-b, 22-C-b-1, 23-B, '43-E-b, 43-H, 45- B-a, 46-F 45-F-d . 16-B-b, 19-G 20-C, 45-B-a, 46-A-a. 12-B, 13-A-b, 26-A-c CPetCc eh nee 22-C-b-1, 45-B-a, 46-H-b 45-B-a, 45-K-b ‘ 43-F-a, 45-B-a, 45-K-b 2 43-E-b, 43-H 22-C-b-1, 45-B- b, 46-A-a. 45-B-a, 45-K-b . Bs 45-B-a, 45-K-b_ . 16-B-b, 20-C, 26-A-c, '46-A-a 22-C-b-1 . 13-A-c, 19-B, 39, 42-A- at 11-B, 12-D, 12-E-a, 40-C-b oa) GAN ane B, 37-A- “2, Lilac PAGE 324 253 329 305, 306, 321, 326, 329, 332, 335 304, 306, 323 146, 326 277 241 277 ag 205, 244, 277 illus. 14 59 1 140, 208, 226, 235 307 306 332 151, 190, 209, 252 131, 191, 296, 325 171, illus. 247 277 181, 209, 253 253 209 204, 253, 325 326 310 221, 223, 235, 289 213 326 156 156, 326 235 235 235 271 196, 209, 253, 325 231 184, 227, 230, 331 184 302, 320, 322, 323, 331 120, 125, 158, 163, 193, 296, 317, 323 Plate XXV 129, 175, 177, 305, 308, 320, 338 326 145, 155, 163, 320, 335 124, 129, 190 175, 320, 340 320, 332 306, 320, 332 305, 308 175, 321, 335 320, 332 320, 332 145, 163, 190, 335 175 130, 155, 284, 297 120, 125, 126, 187, 276, 291 159 Lilac NAME Lilac, Persian Tree syne Lilacs, Hybrid ‘ Blue to bluish lavender . Double . Sin te Single ee purple red to 0 reddish « Double . . Single. Pink to rosy Double . oe Single mis raked ies Select list of White . Double . ees Smiple eye.) ieee te Lilies, for: . varie Accent plants | 2 Calcareous soil . Clay (if well drained) Culture in garden soil . . Moist and boggy hase Open sun . A Sandy or dry soils Shady places . Undergrowth and shrubbery borders. . Lilium (in variety) . auratum bolanderi canadense . candidum . carolinianum . croceum elegans . hansont. henryt . japonicum . Pe et ee MIGTIAGON I) lies oy 3) 1s monadelphum . parryi . parvum - philadelphicum regale A roezlt speciosum . superbum . tenuifolium lestaceum ligrinum wallacet é washingtonianum . Lily (in variety) Alpine. . American Turk’s Cap Blue Plantain Boland’s Caucasian . Chilean Coral Day European Turk’s Cap Fortune’s Plantain Fragrant Orange . Gold-banded ._. Golden Turk’s Cap Japanese . Large-flowered Plantain Madonna . Nankeen Panther Parry’s. Plantain Royal. . Santa Cruz Showy . Sibevian Coral. Siebold’s Plantain 410 GROUP i Sey; yo ry ade Shane co ace nt APS 19-C Hi Acute sla 19-I, 33-A, 46-C-a at hy ohh is hpieds . . . . ry eee teee 33-F-f . Peeters) AN fe 31-A, SiG. 40-A, ‘45-J : 33-F-b, 33-F-i, 36-B . 33-F-g . 29-H, 33-F-c, 36-B 31-H, 33-F-b, 33- F-d, 33-F-e, 33-F-h, 36-B . 33-F-g . 33-F-b, 33-F-e, 33-F-h 33-F-e, 33-F-h 33-F-d, 33-F-h, 33- Fa 33-F-1,43-I . . a te Geena hie 33-F-i . Pee er rt hen ee ik 33-F-d, 33-F-e. SRM eee 33-F-d, 33-F-e, co 0) oe Sn We Beg 2) 33-F-c, SOM te Sy Mie Mie the pte ie 33-F-c A 33-F-b, 33- Fe, 33- F-, 33- F- h, 36-5 . 33-F-b . . 33-F-c 29-H, ie H, 33-F-b, 33- Ff, 36-B 29-H, 33-F-c . . ‘ d. ah Nene 33-F-b, 33- Fe, 33-F-h, 36-B ch OEE 33-F-b . sh then dane 33-F-i 4 31-A, 31-G, 40-A, 45-J ey PRK ae 33- F-a, 33- Fe, rh Rene tae opens BRE De ie) a CN ic hake Wi emai 31-B-e . 33-F-g is is a 33-F-e, 33-F-h 33-F-b . 31-B-h, '31-C- -a, 31-F, '31-M-b, 43-1. 33-ed 9 33-F=eo i) esa) el tale Vetus SEAS eye) Bic Roan ae 37-A-c . 33-F-b, 33-F-i, 36.B ; 33-F-d, 33-F-h, 33-F-i Woke Sie EI Res is os ody oye MN wee ie 31-B-f . chaste eta ban eM at Moretti 31- ee 37-A- bes. NP ae it We 33-F 3 33- ae 33-F-b, '33- F-d, 33- Fe, 33-F-h, 36-B Ue ae 29-H . 33-F-c, 33-F-i . 29-A, aK ee 37-A-c, 43- I, 45-1 33-F-c 33-F-b, 33-F-f, 36-B . 29-H STB 4h aie ee Lily PAGE ro 249, 337 257 222, 231, 289, 331 re 257, 271 308, 256, 271 231, 256, 257, 271 256 256, 257, 271 256 256 209, 231, 256, 257, 271 209, 256 209, 256 296 256, 257, 271 256 257 222, 231, 289, 331 257 6 226, 227, 230, 235, 309, illus. 310 256, 257, 271 256, 257, 271 225 235, 277, illus. 310 256 253 256, 257, 271 257 209 256, 257 204, 235, 277, 309, 330 256 256 256, 257, 271 209 224 Lily Name Lily, Sierra Nevada uthern Swamp . Spear-leaved Plantain pecebergen Pte Tiger . eye Turk’s Cap B Wallace’s Tthunbergian Washington . Wild Red. . .. Wild Yellow . . ; Yellow. . a hie laps y Showy : Lily Lee - Velie 4 Lily-of-the-valley Limnocharis humboldti . Linaria cynbalaria . cymbalaria maxima dalmatica . . . Linden Ri Rees American. . . . Common . . Crimean . European . Silver . " Linnaea borealis . Linum perenne . Ligquidambar styracifiua. Lirtodendron . tulipifera . tuliptfera pyramidalis Lists for reference Lithospermum canescens belia . Lobelia fe variety) . Annu: - Bin AS cardinalis . Double erinus . ertnus alba erinus compacta Palace ¢ erinus flore pleno d erinus tricolor. . spectosa .. . MpOLted yi VE)0 ee SoA ders hite Compact . . Loblolly Bay. . Loco-weed, Slender . ocust (75. 1. Black : Chinese money Honey . Long-spined Honey . Japanese Honey . Pyramidal Black . Thornless . : Lolium temulentum . Lonicera (in variety) Beane ten age 3 brownt . flava . P ‘ J fragrantissima satis heckrottt : japonica halliana. maackt . morrowt periclymenum belgica . prostrata ° sempervirens spinosa albertt slandishit . . . Crystal oeeee . eee a 6 8 6. 6) ee 33-F-e, 33-F-h. 29- 33-F-b, 33-F-e, 33- Fg, 33- Fh, 36-B 29- ae 33-F- aS 36-B B 28-B, 29-C, 3LB- b, 31-C-b, 31- 1, 36- B, 36-E-a, 3 a Rael 43-1. A 15-C, 35-A-c, 35-B.a . ; 15-C Brine 24-E, 31-D 37-A-b, 39 : 24-A-a, 44-E-a 10-A, 46-F. . 10-A, 46-D 11-A 10-A, 11-A, 14-A-a 15-A, 29-F: STEROL O ec 15. 31-64 41-41) 10-B, 14-A-a, 20-A, 22-A, 40-B, 40-C-a, ees 43-J-a, 45-C, 45-H-a Rane 42 10-B, wag 22-A, 40-8, 40-C-b 6, 66-6 6 a 068 45-1 Wier wer laters 32-E, 35-B-a, 45-1 SOs palette eis 35-A-a, 45-I Bical tem Monae eae WOH fa) area k papain co lew ie Tarts wah Agi Re 31-B-g, 31-C-a, 3- L-c Eee e at ve eh Ne) 32-G-a-2 . APE Cie de BEE Na Ge i eee Rr Nets eve |B 32-G-a-2 . 1 1 wt ° 32-G-a-2 . . . BeG-ase, pee Ne B2-G-a-2 1) 5a ere OES ale cil) Veta he ZAG aaa tay rat ttt iat to yr eat eae SEBS Ay ier oun te : 32-G-a-2 aie intel aie 43-B-a, 43-B-b, 43-D-a shah ecient meeting 38-A : : SiC pah atid Teese 39, we) 10-C, 11-A, 17, 19-C, 19-C: b, 23-A, 24-B- “a, 24- D, ag 26-B-a, 37-A-b, 42-B-b . . af 45-C, 45-H-a . 10-C, 12-A-b, 20-A, 20-F, of :D, '26-B- “2, 37-A-b, nicinie wie eeee 20-D-a, 20-D- b, "93 B,” 34-A, 34- c, 42-A-a, 45-G te 12-D, aha 19-B 45-A-b . 38-C-b . 12-A-b, 17, 18-B, 19-A, 19-F-a, 22-C-b- 1, 37-A-a, 41, 45-B-b . 45-A-b . 18-B, 22-C-b-2, 24-B- -C, “24- Cc, 2 5-C, 29-E-c, 34-E, 43-C-a, 2G, 4G, 45-A-b, 46-B-b, 46-G . 12-D, 13-A-c, 46-C-a 13-A-c, 19- 5. Mik ii 20-B, 46-£ 46-G 29-E-a. | t 22-C-b-1, 43-C-a, 43-G | 15-B, 18-B, 29-E-a, 37-A-a 19-A, 22-C-b-1, 45-F-c . . 2 256, 257, 271 209 256 257 256, 257, 271 209, 256, 271 309 257 331 270 197, 205, 223, 228, 232, 270, 274 119 117, 119, 134 138 140, 222, 231 117, 133, 162, 173, 289, 291, 301, 310, 320, 328 298 117, 162, 173, 289, 291 135 107 330 242, 265, 330 264, 330 264 244 225, 227, 235 244 301, 302, 305 279 284, 298 117, 119, 149, 155, 159, 177, 181, 183, 186, 191, 276, 297 321, 328 117, 124, 162, 167, 183, 191, 276, 328 321 321, 328 135 337 279 165, 166, 177, 260, 261, 296, 327 125, 130, 155 320 281 124, 149, 151, 154, 158, 276, 293, 321 320 151, 175, 182, 183, 187, 207, oy 303, 308, 317, 320, 336, 125, 130, 336 130, 155, 158, 163, 338 338 207 175, 303, 308 139, 151, 207, 276 154, 175, 326 175, Lonicera NAME Lonicera as as tatarica : ea ee tatarica alba xylosteum . Loose-strife, Common Yellow . Japanese 3 Pink Lotus (in variety) American. . corniculatus Love-in-a-mist Low-growing plants along the inner side of curving road- ways and at entrances. Deciduous ee Evergreen Mae aS? Lec anety 0s Lunaria annua. . . «+ « Lupine ISG yi) ase es et +e Perennial . . .. - Lupinus hirsutus . Hila polyphyllus Surat eat iicita te chalcedonica coronaTia dioica . > viscaria splendens 2 Lyctum barbarum chinense halimtfolium mt Lyonia ligustrina . . « Lysimachia clethroides . . . nummulatia . 2. « «+ « vulgaris. ore Lythrum salicaria roseum oe salicaria roseum superbum Mackaya : cheery ite Maclura pomifera : ° Madre P Madrona . Madwort C Silvery eee a Magnolia (in variety) eater ais “ee @ . QEUMENOIG. use) 6s Chinese Purple . . . Chinese White .. . conspicua . es denudata glauca . . pasiiiore ; reat-leaved . hypoleuca . macrophylla soulangeana pouloges stellata . Swamp tripetala Yulan . : Mahonia (in variety) aqutfolium 2 Chinese... Creeping fortunes . Japanese japonica nervosa . pinnaia. pinnata wagnert pater repens . Southwestern |. Maidenhair Tree. 412 GROUP 29-E-a 12-D, 13-A-c, ‘16-A, 19-B, 19-I, 20-B, 26-A-c, 27, '42-B-a, 44-Aca. Sie Nit 19-G-a . So 12-E-e, 37-Aa Shire 31-L-c ‘ ae 1-C-a RU tet eek ea atoments LEE '31-E, SET 64) boc awn STAN oe ther Pile iia P i tetihet Mave AS-Braivey te frets ser ela all as QOD fae, Saxena) seins dels 32-A, 32-C,32-D ..-.- + « _ te Pa. Sige HEN 5 1-J.. 3LB 31- Be, '31-D, 1-5, 31-K-a, 45-1 PC SLB Oh ae ute i ee ae 5 Ne ae arty SAN eB, "25-C, 29-E-c, 34-D, 44-B-b. DEAACCh eta, aM ere ee Ae 31-C-a 38.8, 29-A, 29-C, 35-B-a, 45-A-a 31-L-c 3 Eee Lewes, ee 31-B-g he Cau Son, Wee seyaean Nao waate 43-F-e . . ch pen titeds yal eeninre 12-A-b, 20-A, 23-A : “ 43-J-a ARMeD. bees 46-H-b Pe aN ae AST ion ptsr4Na. suai 1SC ss awe 14-A-a, 19-A, 39, ‘40-B, 42- B-a, 43-B-a, 44-G, 45-C, 45-G, 45-H- "Or he “a. 20-A, sth 45-H-a . . oo @ @ 45-H-a re ic Pee 19-B, 37-A-a . 43-B-a, 45-C, ca rok 45-H- -a, 45-K-a 45-H-a. . Es AD-G se Re ele 45-H-a Cee Deamre 13-A-b, 19-G-a 13-A-b, 19-G-a 19-B, 37-A-a . . . 45-C; 45-Gai ee a. 45-H-a oe DV aia e 42-B-a, 44-G . 12-A-a, 19-A, 22-C-a-, 24- B-b, 33- E-b, rena 45-F-b, 45-F-d, 46-A-B ee 15-A, 18-A, 28- 28- B, 29.C, 33- E-b, A5-F-b 45-F-d . 45-F-ed. . . ° 46-B chs ven Ge - 45-F-d.. * Sg E-b . eee . : hao wo ap a 18-A, 28-B, 29-C, 33-E-b, 45-F-b Tee 11-A, 22-C-a, 45-C. 45-H-a . Maidenhair Tree PAGE 207 125, 120, 145, ree: 159, 163, 190, 193, 297, 3 158 126, 276 235 227 225, 230, 235 234 190 227 197, 204, 205, 265, 319 235 230, 235 225 307 124, 162, 177 310 339 309 139 133, 154, 284, 289, 297, 301, 317, 321, 327, 328, 331 es 321, 328 297, 317 124, 154, ee 181, 253, 291, 325, 326, 3 326 138, 151, 197, 205, 253, 325 326 253 138, 151, 197, 205, 253, 325 326 117, 119, 174, 321, 328 1 182, 187, 207, 261, 314 -Maintenance 413 Maple NAME Group PAGE Maintenance. . 5 Hea a RMT eet PAN etl Ng oP far APN Bit tan 73 Chemicals used in’ spraying . aren Alte be Pamir GOAL ey 76 Different types of gardens, Maintenance of . 2 RHAT Gio arse hiatal ees cet fats cet) cempace 94 Annual flower gardens Sahar DAU aE, o Rek hey leieket. very tale here ee 94 Cutting gardens, Mainte- nance of. SE oT fa ait Los Tite ont ehel ort ronnie 97 Informal flower. gardens, Maintenance of. . EM SOM eas Teeny ent aN ret iat sak 5 TP ole 96 Refined flower gardens, Maintenance of . Aa a tea Ca hots Temi eN ol Viet? tat neute 96 Rock gardens, Mainte- nance of . AIOE RCAC, ey avid Ie Big Ree deka 97 a gardens, Maintenance Wall gardens, Maintenance OOo a ae OTe Oa aa Water gardens, Mainte- nance of . Ae Rete Ce IR e Rtn ty, ee wee 99 Wild gardens, Maintenance of . Aedes - 95 Ever eens, Maintenance of. 3 83 Fertilizing annuals . . . Ps 91 Forms of sprays . Formulas for sprays . Lawns, Maintenance of Enemies to lawns . Fertilizing lawns Mowing lawns . ines Rolling and weeding . . Watering lawns Pt iA Outfits for spraying iS O'S helt; ae Bale ww a8 Perennials, Maintenance of . oa: Rae te iat oy a al CSD 87 Diseases of perennials and control . on RRA ete itl Tan pthc eisai heise d weaiate aut 93 Dividing perennials and renovating beds. . MPA sys Rote WN cD Wie TMi ap hit etait al tt ah 0 eevat a 88 Fertilizing perennials . . HUD eine ollie nate meos tdi Meta) Ooty omy Fee 91 Mulching perennials for winter protection . by IMG AER Be Mer ache Mis he Alea Reet KE 87 Removing seed pods ‘and generalcare . . ROT ae tclg wos) hen dent sd Vale) Musuae 93 Watering perennials . . BN tea SN ES esta Ber et At) MRE) i 92 Requirements 5 ME Mem Na Me eM aly at a. tet tek SLM 73 Rhododendrons and other broad-leaved evergreens. Fertilizing rhododendrons. ANN Rok dette vic ena Ore : 83 Season for spraying . : Soe RSI Raa UCL é 76 Shrubs, Maintenance of . oo, Tet Masa YEU es ao eam dea DMP ey Pew is 81 Spraying don’ts . Carel BONE DA SA MAS ite RAT WY 81 Spraying trees and shrubs . Caer alanritcry Wie) ser b Woasht arvareia ie Uae 75 Symptoms and treatments. SMe MES toP i'l aly say Aeti¥ | ort ta ae Me 80 Trees, Maintenance of . . Site est MC ee Aa try tet ae Aa Ma ds, A 7 Fertilizing trees . . . ALAN ei at 4.) Mia cic eral’ Renita th Os 74 Treesurgery . .. . SPCR x A ME gk Nl ht Seats iy View a beatese 73 Watering trees. . . . Nuc rp oie at Me eG an ches tee ORs eal Gur me 74 Vines, Maintenance of | ; 5 LMR IE EA, ihe ek eee Re en Ces Rh rot 83 raion eed) cp ies ie CoH GSA SNL th ANIM ba A i et 241 MATS yy eo ati) vor! Let mete 72 A Oct RAS DAL EN i he ner nove een an bra 331 AVINISKGh eee ss hd 4 ce cae, Lane 37-A-c . Dekpat } ocean ot wee ee 277 Swamp T vonsl bene 31-B-j, 31-B-k, SLE, SHES OS oe An ule A 226, 230, 235 Mallow Marvels. PLN Ne 31-M-b. Bhi Way eueice mia bots 235 Malpighia coccigera. . . . Ze tal DUC ye a ecg Me ie FeO aaa a 304 MVralteseiGross!) 6. S's ia ne SUNRISE CAS atin IN Ae PND tines eevee #4) 8 225 Malva moschata. ... . MCAKCHA EAI e a oth ue UCL pent T ao ae 277 Malvaviscus arboreus . . . ASE GW eens Hers feat Matte, city Shay nd 307 Mandrake . FREER Ae re ASH SS! BAI Aa thee ae ie ea ee TORRE CIC 198 Mangifera adic tk) A hs 5 43-B-b, 43-D . lr Pcak dois ettcle toe 302, 304 Mango . seeks. sgl eet ASE Y AS-D ute iohttid hee a euth tes) Te 302, 304 Manilla Grass. a ike ASG ee PoC Rr ok Mine ve A ae asite 308 Manure, How tousefor. | ; Sin egarrainte ANS eae Sie yet eile Bulbs . TST: eR as SLM eatin PaU Net Uc cik aay ar Mal AM iy bam 66 SES ee ist ean et) Set Sree EN A eeu S| Th Wiss Sal wleeaine 91 Peonies. . : Arar ALL Gibasy ppoeeue. boc 91 Mopic Gn variety). 02). Ys.) SA SO-B) 39°20 2 Da, one Columnar Sugar. . . . 1G=AEG=D Eb AT ei Re ENN ei 144, 147 Drummond’s Aneta Aeebey ATs 38-C-b . oa 281 EuropeanCork | | : ! 13-A-b, 16-B- b, 16-D- Ja, 45-B-b oS 124, 145, 146, 321, illus. 158 Globe Norway ... . 16-B-b . Ba 145 MP ADANeSe Midi ee) hore pik ha 14-A-a, 15-B, 22-B, 40-C-b b, " 44-G, 133, 139, 173, 290, 316, 336 46-C-a be vos = INGTIVAYE | Bote ge) dee.) fue 10-B, 22-C-a, AL EDAG- Dro eee 117, 173, 315, 337 Greconwe ear rah tie, LNs 46-D Aaa ae SL ale aia aan Poe 337 Maple NAME Maple, Linares! Silver . . Eyre aac Fe dap ft Schwedler’s Purple hehe Meanie Hardy 6 Marigold, African erciies F French Rae hte at oii WMiarals\n tis) stern alr tce Pot Soa SS ete Ce OE Tall Double African. . .- Mascarene Grass : Mass plantings, Shrubs for! ; Matrimony Vine. . : IGrICAM eee Gs Mew re ote Chineseaiin.) sie sts Matthiola incana incana annua . Maurandia (in variety) . 3 Maurandy Vine (in wusiety) Meadow uty. Meadow-rue. . - +» « » Meadow-sweet pa a ulieks Pat oe Herbaceous F Japanese Medlar Meibomea . Melia azedarach umbracuisfor- mis Melissa officinalis j Menispermum canadense Meratia praecox. . Mertensia virginica . Mice, Protection against Michelia fuscata . - Mignonette . - . «© « - Milfoil, WellowNeras-ne e Milkweed, Redirects? ae wamp me See eta y phe Milkwort = ee Box-leaved 5.6 Mim 5 iosa Minnesota, Plants for . Autumn colouration of leaves BAarivae ns te sane Medium eerie Evergreens . . Ground cover . hrubs Vines Hedges Barriers : Windbreaks. . Heavy, formal effects . Plants not Barey in Minne- sota Street trees Adapted to ‘special condi- tions) = .. nie Entirely hardy ele Sh: Miscanthus (in variety) compactus . Miscellaneous book’ references MistiMlowerl.. on os- ost. ee Mitchella repens. . . «© « Mixtures of grass seed . Mock Orange : Common Dwar): Falconer’s. . Golden Dwarf. 414 GROUP ri dg 12-D, 14-A-b, 16-A, 16-D-b-1 19-A, 20-B, '22-A, | 24-A-a, '24-C-a, 26-A-a, 38-C-b, 40-B, 43-B-a, 44-C-a, 14-A-a 12-C, 22-A, 25-A, 26-B-a, 46 . 12-E-e, 23-A, 40-B Ree SUN Ae ae Se 10-A, ais 24-C-a, 28-A, 44-C-a, 44-E-a of Ra ealtaby he 46-D 12-C, 44-A-b 46-C-b, 4 46-F 31-A, 31-B-h, 31-D, S1-K-<, 45-1 BT G7: Sheen 32-A, 32-H-a i 13-A 24-B-c, 25-C, 29-E-c, 34D, 4B. 26-A-c. . 26-B-Cyry dee et ene eee 32-H-b PEO Oe ey cee 32-A, 32-E, 32-H-a . «. «= | 32-H-a : Arg eh A be 35-A-a, Ca: a gy iy 35-B-a : 24- 15-C, 30-A, 31-B-b, 31-C-a, s1-L-<, 45-1 19-C, 26-A-c, 29: E- -E-a. . Sey Se eA aay SIC ar eae er “acs AEP I ro) ee at (et. Seite 3115) 3S ee aoe te cia 45-H-a, 45-K-a . . 31- Beas ee ee 44-B-b, ABES Co tteo ents 45-F-a : 4 29-H, 31-B-a, 45-J . 2 43-F-c, 45-F-d, 45-K-b i 29-I, 32-A, 32-B, 32-D 29-A,31-B-h. . . BEG ea 25 6 0 Ul a “Sah ee) He) 0 iS wW BESO Ee 31-B-i, 31-I, a 15-C, 24-A-a, 28-B, 20-B, 29-C, 20-H, 30-A, 31--Dil eh is 5 19-C, 19-G-b, 27, 41, CON ea 12-E-e, 13- Acc, 19-1, 25. eae - 12-B, 15-B. ¢ 13- Ac. 12-B , Mock Orange PAGE oe 134, 144, 147 154, 162, 173, 180, 18% 189 281, 289, 301, 314, aoe" : 133 125, Lee oe 191, 338 126, 1 156, 1 227, 330 227 304 213 301, 328, 331 236 ae 333 208, 222, 331 307, 326, 332 210, 240, 241 , 225° 180 234 205 253 301, 327, 331 312 180 140, a Of ae 228, 235, 330 345 226, 232, 235 140, 180, 197, 204, 205, 209, 212, 228 55 155, 158, 193, 293, 296 126, 130, 159, 187, 276 124, 139 130 124 Mock Orange NAME ice anes Gordon’s. a . Wemioine’s) 3) 3) |. ii/e) ya Moist soils, Ground cover for : URIAPLAT HE) 0 s36)5\) Se a eh sgh didyma ai tata) = jistulosa ° Moneywort . Monkshood . Wilson’s . Moonseed, Common Moon Vine... Morning Glory . Malco i apanese Morus rubra . alba tatarica alba tatarica pendula : Moss, eT rering Mother of Thyme Mountain Rose . Mulhene Bride se nen aper . Red Tea’s Weeping | Mulching Fertilizers for (See Fertilizers) For the winter. Mullein, Clasping-leaved Greek Bee Wettle-leaved . le Musa ae variety) ensele . < Muscari botryoides - Mushroom : Mustard, Rock-loving Hedge Y M: “asptied alpestris : ‘ palustris . . Wee te semperflorens 'yrica (in variety) . carolinensis cerifera OLS gale Myricaria germanica Gee wny Se ae Myrtus communis Nandina domestica . Japanese . i Narcissus (in variety) : barrt . horsfieldt incomparabilis. leedst . leedsi amabilis. Paper White . polyanthus Trumpet 2 Trumpet Major . Yellow Panes White . Nasturtium . . Dwarf Native collected shrubs. Native plants, Books on Natural informal effects Naturalizing, Bulbs for . In wild garden. Perennials. . Shribei. |. 37-A-c, 45-J 31-B-g, 31-H, 31-K-a, 37-B-b- 31-C-a . 28-B, 29-A, 29-C, 35-B-a, 45-A-a a italy 31-G, 31-N, ae A, Aas 1 3 a 44-B-b, ABT. 35-A-c, 35-B-a 32-F-b, 38-C-a 32-F-D) ae el ein i 23-A A 14-A-a . 15-A, 29-F, 29-H, '33-E-b 29-I, 32-B, ay ask ibe 32-G-a-l . . EYE aA NES 43-C-a, 45-L . RUE her orbs 31-B-e, 31-I, 32-A. Be EIS 23-A, 39, 44-G 32- 29-A, 31-C-b, 31- L-c, ‘32: 1D) Z 31-B-a, 31- 4 29-E-a, 43- J-b, 4 28-A, 45-F-c 45-F-c . mht is 43-D, 43-F-b . 29-B, 33- sii 45-F-b- 45-F-d . 5 CASA Ts IA Ee 45-F-d, 45-G, 45-K-b . . 45-F-d, 45-G, 45-K-b. . . ea 39,45-J. Gs E- 32-A, S2.C, 35-A-b, 35-B-a, 43. ‘ 13-B 2) 36-B 36-B 31-C 28-A 13-A-a, 13-B-a, 18-B, 20-B, 20-C, 20-D-h, 22-C- “a, 24 B-b, 25-B, 26-A-c, Naturalizing PaGE 338 276 149, 177 337 337, 338 197 203 277, 331 225, 231, 233, 277 227 197, 204, 205, 265, 319 ee 231, 236, 279, 329 314, 333 242 265 242, 281 242 165, 289 177 133 139, 208, 209, 253 210, 241, 244 243 302, 332 224, 232, 240 177, 284, 316 2 204, 228, 235, 241 222, 229 317 290, 326 129, 130, 151, 163, 166, 174, 181, 187, 190, 207, 310, 326 197, 326 326 304, 306 204, 253, 325 326 326 326, 327, 332 326, 327, 332 git 285, 331 274 270, 271, illus. 366 270, 271, illus. 366 274 274 270, 271 274 240, 241, 265, 310 244 Nelumbo NAME Nelumbo (in variety) Nemopanthus mucronata Nepeta glechoma. . . « mussint . b Nerium (in variety) a oleander_. att? oh ie oleander DeBrun. . . oleander Savort . . . - Nettle Tree . . Chinese Pe as Ms Neviusia alabamensis . . New Jersey Tea Hybrid Nicotiana Nierembergia gracilis seas Nigella damascena . . . Bighreee. rece Mate. Norfolk Island Pine. . . . I TTLCTIAN, Sha SEELEY pie is Ch ae INGEZETCES est hey. fe! sh aye INSUIPUGEGS Gea. Janae) 8. (0 CE Oe a te marliacea . odorata aor he odorata sulphurea . Cees: Nyssa aquatica . hc SVHMGUCGU A tet ou tele s Black SPA Pre California White « at Ns git English. pce tre Moteany: (e-iac tebe Ee TEAUITCN 5 As crates es. ae ive ne oy trie Mossy Cup byt idal English amidal Englis Rede ar pennies = Scarlet . Shingle A Spanish . 5 Swamp Spanish Swamp mee Water. White . Willow fo Tre Mami Yellow Chestnut; 2: ; Ocean Spray , 5 Oenothera (in weriety biennits . . fruticosa Sruticosa youngi missouriensts . ee A speciosa WW ie osdiais ei 2! awe Oleander . 3 Double Crimson - Pink an ee White . .. Oleaster, Broad- leaved . Bronze : Japanese . Yellow-spotted Olive, American Florida : Fragrant Russian Sweet . : Onoclea sensibilis struthiopteris . Opuntia vulgaris 416 GROUP SI BeavASEo vel) ee arias ite Ray ohne 26-A-c 29-A, 29-F, 35-A-2, 35-A-c, 35-Ba inc 2 24-E. 16-C 43-E-a, 43-E- b, 43-F-a, 43-J-b, 45-H-b. 43-F-d. . 43-F-b . 10-B, 11-A, '20-D-a, 20-F, 26-Ba, 43-B-a, 44- Ce! 44- eins 45-C ber BS are A 5-F-c . tie BBS, 18-B, 27, 28-A, 42-A-b Ries 45-F-a. . Piet 32-E 35-B-b . ai» Nat he 32-A, 32- c, 32- D. J. aha gem tte 38-A ee ae 34-D a Bi iy, '19-G, 20-B, 45-H-a 14-A-a, 20° 'D-a, 22- B, 24-A-a, 40-C-a, 45-C, 45-H-a . : i 14-A-a, 30-B, qa: o)\fey Sr iusyy, tomate 10-A, 22-B. SED ae aE AE Ne er 24-D ste shbels Ue 16-A, 16-D- “b-I, 45-E. 45-H-a, 45-K-a 16-D-a, 43-B-a, 45-C, 45-H-a, 45- Ka. 43-B-a, 45-C . : 25-A 10-B, 11-A, 24-A-a, 45-C 14-A-b. 10-A, 22- B, 24-B- -a, 26-A-a, 40- C-b, 44-C-b, 44-E-a, 45-C 10-A, 22-C-a, kayaks 45-C, 46-1 D, 46- F 45-C. 45-H-a of Coniete Reboals ta eent ee aera phe AB Pi ay Pm haa han, broke ta Mean | xc 24-A-a 38- Cai 43-A,_ 43-B-a, 45: C, 45-H- “2, 45-K-a_. 10-A, 22-C-a, 24-A-a 43-B-a, 45-C, a ra Seuaa tt en BL 45-H-a. . 1 Wa eee: t vias koe 46-C-b Bo Watcahet mt ate ie Peta kick tou 116 37-A-c, 45-1 Bh ol ea ern ee aN eee SIEC=D SOE A ee Re Dee ae ne ee 2B Se Rice Se a S1-D ek Ait ek a ic 31-B-h, 31-H . 24-E - ie OF {Ea 43-E-b, 43-1-b, 45-H-b . BED: Ph BAN AE Ee Ree alae es! SM ac 43- Fea 2 ee Me ee 45-F-a Save ne Cee okey hi ie) Nene 16-C Soy ee AT 19-F-a, 20- B, 45-Fc . CO heheh ce ate 45-G ep riem) eeeret wie yi SRR Paine: SNE Ris keen fk 43-F-a 37-A-a, ‘45-4 -a, 45-H-b, 46-H-b. 12-D, 12-E-b, 19-F-a, 24-D, 25-A, 42- ‘A-a, 46-C-b. . . 43-F-a, 43-H, 45-B-a. 28-B, 29-D-b . - 28-B, 29-D-b. . . 45-A-bi a ee eed Opuntia PAGE a 310 304, 208, 264, 265 140, 184° 146 305, 306, 310, 329 307 306 117, 119, 165, 167, 191, 301; 314, 315, 321 321 326 130, 151, 193, 196, 297 323 242 266 240, 241 279 261 120, 149, 158, 163, 177, 197, 296 301 310 328 133, 165, 173, 180, 290, 321, 328 es 213, 285 , 183 145, 147, 323 328 , S31 147, 301, 321, 328, 331 301, 322 186 117, 119, 180, 322 135 116, ae 181, 189, 291, 314, 315, 322 116, 174, 315, 321, 337, 338 321 328 328 180 281, 301, 321, 328, 331 116, 174, 180 oe 322, 331 184 146, 305, 310, 329 307 306 306 325 146 157, 162, 325 327 170 306 276, 320, 329, 3 125, 126, is7 1783, 186, 196, 306, 308, 320 197, 206 197, 206 320 Ee ES a eee Orange 417 Passiflora NAME Group PAGE ROSATI Pot lots ak oF Pies (pn aeeeDM Oe sci lye tl ye feel OM Mae Eat) RD BL 304 Hard aay arate 12-A-b, 43-E-b, 45-B-b, 45-H-a. . . 124, 305, 321, 328 Mad Giove Lh 43-D at Napa rebates 304 SADE Me ln io Vora hh mint 12-A-b, 20-A, 23-A, 39 eet | teh ev tees 124, 162, 177, 285 Wild See 43-D, 43-F- a, 45-E. Re lat Wie) Cote 304, 306, 323 Orchis, Yellow-fringed | E 45-J. Talc)! alr sala on O heen 331 Oregon and Washington, Plants for use on Coastal Plain re AG Serer as denies a Nwun rene 334 Evergreens most used . AG Ey sila Brat LEM vRNA Lo Lar ny iter! aati iclatae 339 Broad-leaved . . . . 46-H-b Ntbiey geet wien baad 0:17 Nach eran 339 Conifers emer val hie Gs 4G-Vea fey ei ja) Goi ite tice 4 339 LETS (ad ee a BAS Ni Ay Sarak | hon ene os hase A 335 PPSCIGUOUS 2 5 eS 46-A-a ste aoe, sth, Cael Jarabe i 335 Evergreen . : 46-A-D) cin fai et Pe) al Pa 335 Plants for border planting 0 AGC as wah ihay eae fa is Beli 336 Native and collected . . AGE-Disa fos Ora as uder tag 337 Refined lawn masses . . AG-Coal ain esos hehe GA. eh nehiy waht 337 Plants for ground cover. . AGE ati ch temic! sail Ghd 4 335 pen Sun) | Shs AGAR NS) LARNER le ROPE: oa : 336 Shade AGSB Di shaven Leah ist ms Bh. xa : 336 Plants for heavily ” shaded locations . AGES Ayo ye sh tien ate ace Tel ah eel ea 337 Plants valuable for autumn colouration of leaves . AGAR Hcy tow fhatin mr veh ll or) ae frank (eee 338 \CETESD vt es GE tan aera s 46-G “OMe 338 Oregon Grape .... . 12-A-a, 19-A, 22-C-a, 24-B-b, 33-E-b, 124, 154, 174, 181, 253, 291, pieces 42-B-a, 44-G, 45-F-b, 45-F-d, 297, 317, 325, 326, 335 Sea A ria tak ee AB A Gi, Raut pica) Gute aey ORS Ornamental plants subject to disease and insect pests. Ore Pate nae sae eee tare i a teas 282 Ornamental trees and nag Books on ‘i A bite Lipo dees SB NAS AINE Goes Ce 345 Ornithogalum umbellatum . . OEE Ae velired clic havel Gal atopete 271 Orris Root Be! 29-A ent Patopenwarai te 204 Osier, Golden-twigged - OP 14-B, 21 ad can AW at aS ck Tut its 135, 170 Osmanthus americanus . . . 43-F-a oe ee 306 aquifolium SE Atenth ioe Mies 37-A-a, 45-B-a, 45- H-b, 46-H-b. aay 276, 320, 329, 340 fragrans . Oy ate 43-F-a, 43-H, 45-B-a__. anes 306, 308, 320 Osmunda cinnamomea . . ; 2a Kea ZO Dey eal hapa a tte Mb ay) es 180, 206 CLUSIOUSANG Se a) an a the Desay aA i el Ua Leet aveelian A eta 197, 206 regalis . a Ba ah 24-A-a, 29-D-b_. eh tan 180, 206 Ostrya virginiana ES k ah 22-C-a, hey ethic 40-C-a oR ai Be 174, 212, 213, 290 Oxalis Dine Riitasee sev tate 35-B-a . t ao fae Penne 265 MDHESSRIMA ENS) act e~ piel a hal tte SIPAOU IS wrath dtkedt ise cast tat hias He 212 COTMICUITIA os a Dace ASL ah bral eteitrar ubxoav cee tay ab ene 243 RETECDING 40 let el. bet he SE Ata h Plater ai eae he Satie) tS 243 onOUnaG ns ie a! ve he 35-B-a . ears 265 Oxydendrum arboreum . . . wa. 194 D, 22-A, 45-H-a BY es OE 133, 156, 173, 328 Oxytropus lambertint ‘ 38-A Saran ate ey dy ‘ays tees 279 Pachistima canbyi . . . . pV PAPASDS 28-Es) a) shy os. Ault ne oe 181, 197 Pachysandra caroliniana . . 29- ees 205 REXOUA TUES, 2° Wards A> vane ep a oA, 15-C, 29-B, 29-C, 29-E-b, 29-H, 138, 140, 204, 205, 207, 209, 33- "E-b, 46-B- -a, 46-B-b. ED a 253, 335, illus. 270 Paeonia (in variety) . . . 31-A, 31- H, BIEN, 21K +a, AOA.) 003 222, 231, 232, 233, 289 albiflora sinensis . . . .« 31-B- f, 31- Be, 31- F, ek Raye 75 ahs 225, 230, 277 festva maxima... . 31-H : hice te 231 officinalis “ 31-B-c, 252 NCA ERE ERMAN A 223, 330 officinalis alba 223 wo Ee ao lon SUTUIICOSG? eo) se, ee ate 31-B-b, 31- B-c, BRIN. aie ihe tenes 223, 330 LeHUBOHG on ss, elk SIE caA bee ay ahi Sn ds vat ase, Ree ee eee naaO Pagoda Tree Eh ech amma 42-C eins 298 PIDANIESE | Parte) say, ent opal 11-A, 19- F-b, 45- Ha, ASC cat) a5 pi 119, 158, 329, 331 Painted Tongue. . .. . 32-A, 32-E, 32-H-a . ores 240, 242, 246 alm... ee ae elle lies BSS rch pb Er Te Lae caer ree)E 266, 310 Galifornia. Fan 3°... s,s ASOT EAN Utne ey tape) rae eae Santa 302 Pampas Grass.) .' - se 43-1. Aas Fi 309 Pansy sau lisittie 29-A, 29-I, 31-J, 32-A, 32-E. 4 204, 210, 233, 240, 242 Tufted Bhabrisen hhc 29-A, 29-I, 31-B-a, a Dy eae 45-A-a. 204, 210, 222, 229, 233, 319 Papaver (in variety) rime cic 32-A, 32-C, 32-D . Sea odhie 240, 241 nudicaule yee biry NEES hake 31-D eR a wien, & 229 orientale Bale Ween Rey fo 24-E, 31-B-f, 31-B-g . Bye k tay | aid Bae cca 184, 225 Raper Blower) 3 0's. s)' (e's 16-C,, 43-C-a, 43-J-c fo 146, 303, 311 Papinac Se. atee So ana 43-F-c, ha b SP fel cau otto oa Rita 306, 310 Paritium tiliaceum : 2. -F-c . PTA EL Rta CNP RT Ecy, a5 307 Parkinsonia aculeata . . . AREA it Oy «nea ela rey ihre cunt genes 328 Parthenocissus henryana , 45-L ares Partridge Berry . es 15-C, 24. Aca, 28-B, 20-B, 29-C, 29-H 140, 180, 197, 204, 205, 209, 30-A, 31-C-b j 212, 228 Passifloracaerulea . . . . 35-B- -a, ArT ei Hel bey caw Praise, Virckiea 265, 333 TLC VELL oh he hn cht LEA Wire BS=Ap AS Sais eile ist htittecy, Veli\ee 279, 303 Passion Flower NAME Passion Flower Purple Paulownia (in variety) . tomentosa Paved areas, Plants for. Pavia wad Paw-Paw Peach . Common. David’s Flowering Double Rose-flowering Double White-flowering Flowering. . Pearl Bush = PeaShrub . . Dahurian Siberian . Oe ow 6) 0, 8 8 6. Bh 0. 8 ete Nels Peaty Soils . Pecan oat te Waterr ih. Pelargonium. . hortorum . hortorum Madame Salleroi beltatum . . Pentstemon barbatus - Bearded ct ae Peony. . mere Beat varieties | re Ghineser Tae ret tols Deep Pink. Diseases of . Dividingof. . Fennel-leaved Fertilizing . Light Pink. . Old- fashioned . Old-fashioned Red S 2w_R Op- er, Te ey a ge) eer aiene *. 5 2 © et Sea e Lei yet ac oe 6 2 Bee Wer 0, Sy ee an eS Ge ig a ie 6 fe en ew alesPink en hoe. rele Planting of. Se GAR ed saws kth acyl ote erties Transplanting of. . . ETO ee ORD et Pan eho Whiter) (eke eee hyd Yellow . ae Pepper Bush, Sweets. sce. ie Mountain . Perennials for different pur- poses . Bog gardens, Perennials for . Colour and season Autumn—pink to crimson. Autumn—purple, lavender, orblue. eS. are Autumn—white. | Autumn—yellow to orange Spring—pink to crimson . See purple... lavender, orblue . ER aie c: Spring—white . . Spring—yellow to orange . Summer—pink to crimson. Summer—purple, lavender, orblue . A ray Summer—white Pe a heed to > orange Cut flowers . Se Dividing of . seis Edge of shrub borders ; Low-growing . . . . Tall-growing . . : Fertilizers for. . . . Forshade. . . For water’s edge . Fragrant flowers . Good blooming combinations Hardy for general use. Humming birds, Perennials es attracting ae a z as ng owering period ee Mulching orien iene ie 418 GROUP 35-B-a, 38-A, 45-L . . ASA al ay eh de ee 8 CVS OR SIONS Toomer gr 19-H, 37-A-b, 45-H-a 29 Cast Ds eu yen Vet eet iret Lt a ta Ge! Fe. toe) 8 ee ese = S aes 14-B, 19-B, 44-G, 45- = Ea 42-B-a. . ; 12-E-b 12-E-b, ee 19-B, 19-F-b, 24-B-b, 4 i . . . . 45-H-a. . ; 3 BIB es aren eet lsd Pe LOREM. Riis 3L-A, SLI, 31-K-b, 33-B, 39, 40-4" - 31-B-f, 318g, STP aT Aces ee ie 33-B pe a ge ; 31-K-a . AUR ee, Fr eee ‘ 31-B-c, 45- I ti, ooadok wifey tet ote . 33-B 3) 4k cay eae oy Pe BACB he AGE 4 (cy betes kee Roepe SIZE Cio S2ay oe Bis Bbw fice tees Sa-ESE pec ah hah lia Ieee Raibenlcs kaetene ot Mes ask (IRA ve. Eh Pee He S1-B-b, coe Bec, 45-1 | Bin, eter 33-B : 33-B 13-B-b, 19-D, 19-G-b, 24-A-a, 26-B-c, 27, 28-A, 37-A-a, 42-A-b, iain 46- e 2 45-F-c . BS. Sas UG ee Bat CO ONCk ie Beet. le Hae : DACA WAtE Aico. Uet toh ie hnay be 31-B.. Bh Seok oie cuenta ta aa 31-B-k S Ahiew Lee eit oitmie : 31-B-i an vente welt Caess 31-B-j ah ave Meret AL anni te 31-B-1 besa rence k resets SIEB 6/5, Nate ‘5 31-B-a cde pie ae aren - 31-B-b Beth Sai ie F . 31-B-d Pay Pep umee, uk Ne: ae SI-BeG yk eke set kala te Hohn ie SI=B-e\5. pep than inte tel he ae” ae 31-B-f Ny ce ite te alesis 31-B-h BOA tora 31-I thes ot : sLK eine i : 31-M . stirs . SISVEar lhe ise be : 31-M-b. : 3 i 28-B. toes ‘ 31-L-c whe Sl ieset A 37-A-c calc é c 31-H Ae etahety Jasedtr ets SLAG. Koes eew os ie vie b 31-N at koh Vertes) alate : ro DOA BEAMS TS ue am : SDN eis tad hme ahah ater ae Na Perennials PAGE 265, 279, 333 303 298 159, 276, 328 1 129, 135, 155, 316, 329 297 126 2. ae 232, 233, 250, 285, 289 225, 230, 277 250 250 131, 156, 158, 180, 191, 193, 196, 276, 297, 316, 337 325 sr tani 155, 158, 181, 186, ion Perennials NAME Perennials Naturalizing in wild gardens Mow, types) 3) ie) Ges Tall types . Not desirable in small, ‘refined, formal gardens . Peonies, Interplanting with. Protection of ‘ Season for transplanting. Shade enduring, Ground cover Dry locations . . .. Moist locations. . . In woods Shady locations | puppbyine perpetual bloom : To be transplanted fre- quently . shit lenis Divided each year . 5 Divided every three years. Divided every two years . Treated as biennials. . . Transplanting of . Water planting, Perennials for Deep water 5 Be tie Land at water side. | . Shallow water. . . . Peripioca graeca.. ss ELIWAINIe i is) Dyet ie MMI ERE I ey SIN silo Me Oe es Perpetual bloom, Plants for . PETSIMMON |) 6)! wl les Petraea volubilis. . . . . Petunia (in variety). . . . [SETA AR Phalaris arundinacea . Phaseolus multiflorus . Pheasant’s Eye . . Phegopteris hexagonoptera Phellodendron amurense. Philadelphus (in variety) coronarius. . . . coronarius manus . . coronarius nanus aureus falconert . . . gordonianus grandiflorus tnodorus . lemoinet . lewist . . zeyhert . Phiox (in variety) Annual 5 ese ete eee eee ee Creeping y divaricata . . . drummondi . Yan Woes PRL aie te Pek eet es et et at bey Yeoh Ties BN Jia’ et Jone Vas er no sheeie) ip ©. 0:96 16) lane a8) O_ie\s ay aie. .6) Sl, Gy mee ade Drummond’s. . Early-flowering . Early Garden. . Garden sins Aa ic Tel J “eee glaberrima suffruticosa Miss Lingard. . . Mountain. . GPG eb) 8 paniculata. . SLOLOSZICH A Hi rey iiish) Palin ian tive EMTALA hey aly eK! Veal) Jute! subulata alba . . . SUTIAELOSELS a 6) hah eluate Photinia arbutifolia. . . . | Dyfed (oo a a ea CHALTCS A RR EM ey serrulata z i Japanese . . Slane tate Phragmites communis Luo Phyllanthus nivosus. . . . 419 GROUP wo fR ae? . . . . . . . . . . . eet we eeetee eet we eer ee ef ee ee ft we ee: See . . . . . . . . . o> 6) [6a cer age | Yet USC Sgt Lok? tua Ye Rent) 08 @ a? (6 6° 6.618 e608), O26 26-B-b . 9-C ae ad SBD 6h 46-H-a be yD -C bee EM CIMA er nh AG-FIRac at ach eon te) Mheledae AGFA Pa Wetileo on he averaute 46-H-a . a. 24-B-a, 25-A, 26-A-b, 30- Seite ° 9-A, 9-B, 12-C, 26-A-b, 44-F is 9-A, 9-B, 11-A, 23-A, 24-B-a, 25-A, 26-B-b, 44-A-b, 44-F, wee . 16-B-a, 26-A-b, 28-A . 9-A, 9-B, 16-B-a ._. 9-A, 9-B, 14-A-a, 16-A, 45-E . 9-A, 9-B, 9-D, 12-C, 24-B-a, 24-C-a, ALA, AER, 46-8, 46 Ha sate 29-I, 32-A . 15-C, 24-E, 29-B, 29-F, "29-G, 31-B-c, 15-C, 29-A, 29-B, 29-E-b, 29-F, 29-G, 31-B-c, 31-C-b, 45-A-a, 46-B-a 31-B-g, 31-D, 31-J, 31-K-a, 31-N, 45-I. 15-C, 29- a ate oh B- Ss Sp Accu Cr aI RN REC aly Pinkster Flower PAGE 120, 149, 158, 163, 177, 197, 296 225, 230, 231, 232 125, 133, 212,298 7 112, 180, 186, 190, 193, 111, 112, 339 112, 124, 145, 177, 182, 186, re 313, 3 316, 335 114, 138, 151 114, 151 114 io 145, 147, 314 112, 190, 316 190 339 209, 289 138, 151, 174, 181, 253, 325, 337, 340 124, 325 324 241 133, 285, 298 112, 186, 191, 313, 316, 339 322 113, 339 114 114 112, 114, 145 re 114, 119, 139, 145, 186 114 114 ri 181, 186, 190 181, 186, 190, 213 112, 113, 125, 190, 316 112, 113, 119, 177, 181, 186, 191, 313, 316, 339 145, 190, 197 112, 145 112, 113, 133, 145, 323 112, 113, 125, 181, 182, 313, 316, 338, 339 140, 7184, 204, 208, 209, 223, 140, 204, 205, 207, 208, 209, 223, 228, 319, 336 225, 229, 233, 236, 330 140, 204, 223, 276 233 223 140 222 156, 306 4 130, 139, 154, 157, 181, 323 276 Pinus NAME Pinus (in My Geter Sina) aitenuata . abl) tall ai Tes banksiana . ee Gd otis 65 cembra . ie STERN cembra compacta CMR AG PLS contorla. . I 5 densiflora . densiflora umbraculifera (tan- WVOSHO) sue sts : PAPERS ee Oat. ae aye’, \obe MEMTENG Tal fle meee koratensis . . ANG montana . eal Te montana mughus 5 iy monticola areas Pes nigra austriaca . ww ltt IGUESITISO ce) ee he ‘6 ponderosa . : Tadiaha.. 3) 3). Tesinosa OTIS Wei 6 PP OSEM RS ri chk rar (cf Lot, Su SITOUUS ees ies) bse strobus brevifolia . . strobus Raa? sylvestris sylvestris pumila . . . . Pipsissewa Pans Piquertatrinerva. . . . . Pitcher Plant . . a Pithecoctentum cynanchoides 4 Pithecolobium dulce . Pittosporum tobira . . undulatum Plane, American Oriental P Plant diseases ks on Plantain, Rattle-snake | Planting (See Transplanting) . Planting and seeding seasons . Deciduous trees, shrubs, and vines . Evergreens, Planting ‘seasons or. FS General considerations . Graphic chart showing plant- ing and seeding dates Lawns . Perennials, Planting ‘seasons for Tabulation’ of planting “and seeding dates. . . . Deciduous plants . Evergreens . Lawns . EMne Planting, chart of seasons |. Beds, General preparation Ofw Spacing of plants Plantings, Screen Plants for use in congested city districts . Shrubs . PRICES: [ay ss Pleached Allees . Platanus occidentalis ete OPAETALGLES De a). ray Pines “halt be Platycodon grandiflorum . . JEL ci)» get eae gO Mg pairks BIPISEACH Ae eh lwo, 1a PUIG WETIDI Nas (yeh eee tie apanese ici ed eel Matalin. eis. Purple . Purple-leaved | Wild é Plumeria. : : 421 GROUP TAA ADT rs gt lte ie) ell ens 46-H-a Aare) 9-C, 9-D, 24-B-a, 25-A, 26-A-b 9-A, 9-B, 16-B-a’.. AG Hea bi ord SSB Aegis 9-A) 9-E, 16-Ba. se 6. ue SOD tener te | 6re ent ey ames QOH ue Weetehin ty. ent ele 9-E 5 16-B-a, 26-A-b, 28-A_ 9-A, 9-B, 9-E, 11-A, 15-A, 16-B-a, 25-A 46-H-a . 9- ae . 9-B, 25-A, 26-B-b, 44-A-b, 44-F, BON OL MEIN ADIN ALA 46-H-a . 9-A, 9-B, 12-C, 26-A-b, 44-F 24-B-a, 25-A, 26-A-b, 30-B . 9-A, J9-B, 9-D, 12-C, 24-B-a, 24-C- “2, ce -A- Bs ‘ages 46- rE! 46-H-a.. . ie Palergec 9-A, 9-B, 11-A, 23-A, 24-B-a, 25-A, 26-B-b, 44-A-b, base ae a. . 9-E Pg 2S i 32-G-b-1 . FORE Bae 24-A-a, 31- L-c. y 43-C-a . 43-A, 43-J-a 43-E-a, 43- Fa, 43-J-b, 45-Ba, 45. F-d, 45-K-b 3 22 7 eee, 10-C, 26-B-a 10-B, eae 20-A, 2, 22- A, 23-A, 24- D, aa 29-F, 29-H. . . . . ° . . . . . . . . . . : . : . . BO eyes leah ak feng e yas . o> mje, 0 ome, (e) 8, . DOTA erg ayes Nie ee ehe Mal Bret tetas A th ae Sa) we ae PD RE ae 11-A Bight fat ie vat hh at EAE! «teem SeeUN te 16-D-a_ | OM oe ht ey) SS 10-C, 26-B-a . eek Ene Tale a PAV 205A 21, '22-A, 23-A, 24-D, 24-E, 31-B-e, 45-I brains 19-G-a, 20-D-a 24-B-b, 25-B, 26-A-c 13-A-b, 14-B, 19-A, 33-C, 45-F-c, 46-C-a . 43-D, “43- E-a, Re “J- Bowmen 45-H-a - he th ek 14-A-a . SOURS HT Saab ce 7 i EEE By ch iA gi cco an) or INT BSA sb ita UM eae Rig youl rate yay Wien te 41, “45-F-a, Plumeria PAGE Loy 298 3B 181, 186, 190 112, 1 45° 114 339 191 112, 114, 145 322 113 114 145, 190, 197 112, 114, 119, 139, 145, 186 112, 186, 191, 313, 316, 339 113 113, 139 339 112, 113, 125, 190, 316 181, 186, 190, 213 112, 113, 125, 181, 182, 313, hens 338, 339 114 112, 113,.119), 177; 181, 186; 191, 313, 316, 339 114 197, 252 244 180, 235 303 301, 310 305, 306, 310, 320, 326, 332 305 117, 191 117, 119, 162, 170; 173, 177 183, 337 282 346 208, 209 29 8 9, illus. 14 12, illus. 14 8 146, illus. 158, 175 117, 191 UTS AOS AGA 70, L735) a7; 183, 337 184, 224, 230 158, 165 181, 187, 190, illus. 254 129, 135, 154, 250, 293, 324 157 304, 305, 310 328 134 212, 321 310 Plumbago NAME Plumbago capensis . . . capensis alba Rigs! vatnrste Plume Grass oN TR lass Poaannua . pir, aes Pocket Planting | ; Podachaenium eminens. . Podophyllum peltaien . Poinsettia . A ora Tova Poison Hemlock” Poison Ivy Poison Oak “i Poison SumaCe snes me) te Poisonous plants. Hay fever. . 5 Internally poisonous . Skin irritants. . . . Polemonium caeruleum . teptans ovis Polygala chamaebuxus . . paucifolia . . Polygonum baldschuanicum PCTSICOTIG =) oe aol te sachalinense . Polygonatum multiflorum Polypodium vulgare . Polypody Beek ON ich ae Pomegranate. . .. . Pond-lily, Native . . . hd eeknisuet tein o uket tite ISAM eA lacie mete BOleishew tay es ile, te Carolina) a ie shh ee Eombardy soi -tenice White. . ahs EONPVae ait carts ee ieee yas AINA erie he teeter bite California . oh) CRTs Tcelandir ys. ic) ear ek ie Mexican . .. Oriental . .. Plume. Gola 6 Prickly Sune Wie Shirley E Yellow Horned ; Populus (in anery? alba. . alba pyramidalis ° oecee ee te ew balsamifera 2 delioides . FS deltoides monilifera 5 eugente Sf ogee remonikue. soe)) eae nigra ttalica . . tremulotdes. air tohiate Porana paniculata . . . Porcupine Grass Eek eh B Portulaca grandiflora . . oleracea. ath? kaj ke Potentilla fruticosa tamer: rete Uidentatayy eh Metin Prickly-ash Primrose. . Evening od Himalayan .. Japanese 4 ee eee Missouri . eh ts Missouri Evening. Young’s Evening . Primula (in wares) denticulaia Hairy . Seed cine JODOVACE Ua may ee obconica veris Privet . . Amoor River . California . 422 GROUP FESR at ratty he ube las 2 as ae ae CMs We eee ar rte ete ©. p eeeeeee ee eee e eee . 31-C-a, 45-1 29-F, 31-B-a, 31-C-b, 45-1 33-E-Di.) 5s) 29-C 34-A, 45-L, 46-G . 30 Ste . eeee . e oeee ee ee ee we ee © we wo we ww ew oes ee eee ee we we Pe wee ee 43-D, 43-E-b, vic oh aa aed 31-L-a . As 12-C, 23-A, 30-A, 39, ‘40-B : . 25-A, 26-A-a . Aye 14-A_a, 14-A-b, 16-A, 26-B-a, 44-D, 45-H-a, . Bee aes 10-C, 25-A, 44-C-a, 44 44-E-b . 14-A-a 14-A-b, 16-A, 16-D -b-2, 26-A-a, 24-E, 31-B-f, 31-B-g . : 31- B-f, 31-E, 31-K-c, 31-M-b : : SUE MAUR VRURN Ue es ae, 23- AS S0-A, 40-B ice, agli te 26-A-a . yout 14-A-a, 14-A-b, 16-A, 26-B-a, 44-D, 45-H-a . . swe 2B AGI2B-ARa eho ere, eh! Fete tst PAslahle 38-G-a;/45-Heas 5) a ee 26-A-a, 45-H-a se eh Se ve C, 25-A, 44- Sal rs Of eee 4-D AOA SG rire 14-A-b, 16-A, 16-D-b-1, 26-A-a, se 3. Miatliy oh Wobelbalieh Sateen isp 26-A-a . Pie Otc ee se 32-C, 32-D J eS cae 32- A’ e. Nea RON? ohms 32-A, 32-C, 32-H-a apron 31-D % iW apubten Pate) 32-A, 32-H-a . Sata ects 20-1, BOR Sos int a ony aa 1D 1S hs 202A os ee S3-E-bi. ere aaron Acai, 27, 28-A, 29-E-a | AR ee Stab Seb AOAN ABE ce i 31-C-b, 37-A-c, 4572 GMS Sc Sia Wie Gre ene 31-C-b, ‘31- I, 40-A, 45-1 ; S1-B-ala ne 38-B oltre hota tral Aree Were 31- B-c, 31- L-c. ai eth iiwe “EE uation Be 38-B ee Mis? in le 15-C, 29- F, 31-B-d 11-B, 12- D, 19-G- b, 20-B, 27, * 39, 42- “A-a, 44-G, 45-E. 13-A-b, 22-C- b-1, 23-B, "43- E-b, 43-H, 45-B- a, 46-F. . see 22-C-b-1, 45-B-b, 46- Realy SAN beh PAGE 227, 330 208, 222, 228, 330 253° 205 260, 333, 338 213 234 125, 177, 212, 285, 289 186, 18 133, 135, 145, 191, 314, 328 117, 186, 314, 315 133, 135, 145, 147, 189, 314 224, 300, 233, 235 330 240 233 125, 177, 212, 289 189 133, 135, 145, 191, 314, 328 117, 186, 314, 315 133, 135, 145, 147, 189, 314 170 303 280 210, 241, 244 212 156, 158, 204 253 193, 197, 207 228, 232, 289, 330 228, 277, 330° 222° 223, 235 226 184 229 228, 232, 289, 330 222 280 223, 235 280 140, 208, 224 120, 125, 158, 163, 193, 285, 296, 317, 323, illus. 20, 159 aes 177, 305, 308, 320, 3 175, 321, 335 OO ee ee ee eee ee ee —_— Privet NAME Privet,Chinese. . ... European . PAA be Evergreen. . ab at Nv Half-evergreen ie Carr Japanese . eh vie \aninte Late-blooming PA Pius wean ic! Nepaul A rales Sa re Aye Melee Regel’s " CS EMR Round-leaved_ : Shining-leaved . Variegated Nepaul . Propagation of plants, Books on Pruning, Articleson . ks on Pruning of Ornamental Plants. Evergreens, Pruning of . Hedges, Pruningof . . . Precautions to observe Reasons for pruning . Results from pruning . Rhododendrons, Pruning of | Roses, Pruningof. . . . Shrubs, Pruning of * Tools and wound dressings . ‘ Topiary effects, Pruning for. Trees, ANOLE) Hsing Root pruning . : Top pruning Vines, Pruningof . . Pruning, Lists for . . . Evergreens that can be pruned at any time. . Evergreens that must be pruned in May or June Shrubs needing complete pruning Late summer and fall flowering. . Spring and early summer flowering Shrubs ecding removal of old woodonly . . . Summer pruning . . . Winter pruning. Trees which require little or nopruning . .. Prunus(in variety) . . GIRETICGNG) 3) 15!) avium plena . . . DESSEYE fel) se caroliniana Spi cerastfera pissardi. . PETUSUS YS) oi) Fed ah Ue davidiana . .. . fruticosa pendula . . slictfoia . ks WOPONICA! ye Ve i ite laurocerasus laurocerasus schipkaensis. lusitanica . . . MOREY sail isi! i.5) i marilima Cc padus commutata 5 persica. . : persica alba plena. persica rosea plena . persica vulgaris. . - PPSSALAE) a) 53). Sh Hat te Vis pumila. . . . seroltina. . . . poe eee een 9 a) a Oa . > Le) jen a8 alee 6) ©) ome serrulata steboldt spinosa A subhirtella (in variety) subhirtella penduls. lomentosa . triloba . . Pseudotsuga douglast douglas: globosa Psidium cattletanum Ptelea trifoliata . ; Plerocarya fraxinifolia : 423 Group 45-B-a, 45-K-b_ . 16-B-b, 20-C, 26-A-c, 46-A-a 22-C-b-1, 45-B-a, 46-H-b. 22-C-b-1 16-B-b, 19-C, 20-C, 45-B-a, 46-A-a. 45-B-a, 45-K-b Me Ai 43-F-a, 45-B-a, 45-K-b Be etal 12.8, | 13-A-B, BE-Ae 10S ye ASA ABR Vi ey IG 43-E-b, 43-H . Ba ee . . ». a 2 8 a. 68> 62 6), -« . Pie, Se Cer eal Me ty Toad ae oer ET . . ine 8 Gee. . ee ee ew . PO tS ala A Rh il 15 eM AR eh Pi Da» ADT ae Fo yh rk Ps ia KK an UT CS NUP Bae 3 EY No: ale Pea ee OTR RTD) ed Waits Vie) hate WEL eles AQ a ey re pee ean nate AOS i hr i eu “yh 42-C 45-B-b . CES RG Ade Ra Chicchs 19-E-a . 43-E-a, 45-B-a, 45-H-b, 45-K-b. 33-C, “AL, 42-B-a « BNE nA a oy Yd eu in seee 45-H-b .: Se aa 13-A-b, 14-B, 19-E-a" 45-B- -a,[45-H-b, 45-K-b, 46-A-b, 46-H-b, 45-F-d . aa 46-A-b, 46-H-b . . . 45-H-b Dai Pills 24-B-b, 25-B, 26-A-c 14-A-a, 24-B-a. . 14-A-a. . a 13- -A-b, 14-B, 19-A, 33-C, 41, 45- Fa, 45-F-c, 46-C-a . 9-A, i a aD, 44- Fs 46-Ha. 43-E-a | CMe ete Wh 17, ailing 26-B- mR RW chy) We blot athe 45-H-a BN ACCA heey As 19-A, 19-G-a, 20-D-a, 30-A, 44-6 2 Pterocarya PAGE 320, 332 145, 163, 190, 335 175, 320, 340 175 145, 155, 163, 320, 335 20, 332 3 306, 320, 332 124, 129, 190 326° 27, illus. 24 23, illus. 24 19 23 19 21 19, illus. 24 27 296 154, 158, 165, 212, 317, 1 305, 320, 329, 332 328 250, 293, 297 183 133 329 129, 135, 157 321, 329, 332, 335, 340, 326 19, 135, 154, 250, 293, 324, 326, 337 2 112, 113, 316, 339 114 305 149, 186, 191 328 e Pueraria 424 Reseda NAME GROUP PAGE artahirsula . . « « 45-L . Sd kon paren) oe phere ibe 29-340, 3LE, 46-Gi fs ea ae 207, 261, 339 Punica granatum Seen rer 43-D, ee =e sf Behe estes ares 304, » 306 Purslane ca Sais Wee rec. 30-A. ae 4 212 Pyracantha EA aah cra 42-B-a... Cae : 297 coccinea 20-B, 20-C, 33-E-b, 46-A-b. 163, 253, 335 coccinea lalandi 12-A-a, aig 16-C, soe 45-G 124, 146, 321, 327 coccinea paucifiora 33-E-b 253 Pyrethrum coccineum BERD Os ee On etice Lome mice he Mites 330 roseum. . : 31-B-g, 31-I é 225, 232 Pyrostegia venusta 43-C-a, 43-C-b, 4 303, 332 Pyrus (in variety) 13-B-c, 14-A-a, 135, 30-A, 40-C-b. 131, 134, 155, 212, 291 angustifolia 19-E-a, 37-A-a_. 2 157, 276 atrosanguinea . 33-C 250 baccata 20-A, 24-B-a, 25-A, 33-C, 37-A-a j 162, 181, 186, 250, 276 coronaria . . 19-E-a, 37-A-a, 4 AP a. ho 157, 276, 328 floribunda . . : 19-K-as/S7-A-al wh ys) se Mic Re eles lkts 157, halliana parkmani m 19°F-a..33-C, 41 ie se 1S, Ged samae 157, 250, 293 foensis . aie «hs BABE 5 ha WS) ford bel Fae ioe Rede moaiite 315 foensis bechteli . =. «te 19-F-b;(33-C, St-Acain Wsuere) ee. Arete 157, 250, 276 malus niedzwetzkyana . . 33- ROL Sat nel RisPmenc wan ehoeahee Mtarenee 251 pulcherrima arnoldiana . : BOG ian a Dae eel yet phos Ni ccieante 251 pulcherrima scheideckeri . . SoA is mee po Ls) eke Gall or he 251 SOT UEPIEE Cans ron kes ive. ne re SOC Ee ey bler bat vile yee tye Allee 251 SSELOIGS oe at rel heise ee! tate SS Ca) Saiies pie eeenaner Mie) ate “ 251 Spectabilis riversi . 2 ww BOA ata Amauaihe vey Men Anate te |) pe aaa 251, 276 ZUMER ON TS ck sds 5 BS ei ee Tee tote tea hens ce MOURNS 51 Pyxidanthera barbulata . 4 15-A, 29-F, 29-H, 33-E-b . . . . 139, 208, 209, 253 Quamoclit coccinea hederifolia. SZEoDi tar ss Davy ivoe ve),he 5 isl pilatete 242 pinnata. . Ries Fain ta tev cs Sesh, BAA ehetod Uctitlotey Mobs ape ents 242, 260 Ouen s Wreath. | . BSA tse | cay et vote rape todas ie 303 Quercus (in variety) . ate 14-A-a, 30-B 5 appre - 134, 213 acuta . Ate) wis 45-H-a, 45-K-a 328, 331 alba Oy Gene eerie 10-A, 22-C-a, 24-A-a- 116, 174, 180 RITE? cae Gt Ge te BAS 24-A-a 180° coccinea A rine ne A, 22.C-a, i4E-a, 45-C, 46-D, 46-F 116, 174, 315, 321, 337, 338 falcata . th eS e 2 At 328 tmbricaria . Se aye): ihe re rie 321 laurtfolia Bek ete a een 43: B- “2, 45- GC, 45-H-a, 45- Ka. 147, 301, 321, 328, 331 lobata Ss sects 24-D 183 MGCTOCATPA tet wea is | ioe as 25-A 186 muhlenbergi . . 2 «© « 45-H-a . 328 migra . aeicob, setae ae 38-C-a, 43-A, 43-B-a, 45-C, 45-H-a 281, 301, 321, 328, 331 Pagodacfolia 5h VS, aN Ee hie 45-H-a . norte 328 palustris ait re weet ie 10-B, 11-A, 24-A-a, 45-C : 117, 119, 180, 322, Phellos. . ate AS-Bea AGC. A5-Ke-a,. 2: 301, 322, 331 robur fastigiata eles 16-A, 16-D-b-l1 . . 145, 147 robur pedunculata aahens fT) On fo SPH PO) as SM SP: oy tak 323 tobur pyramidalis ates 14-A-b. Abo. teh Neo fe 135 rubra os nes 10-A, 22-B, 24-B- 2 26-A-a, 40-C-b, 116, 173, 181, 189, 291, 314, 4 44-C-b, 44E-a, 4 uecyseisn niet ke 315, 322 Celular. ick eh test of ct) )LO-As 22-B. A 116, 173 virginiana . sts ke 43- B-a, be e é 301, 322 Quince yttion | Hoo ee 285 Chinese Flowering 5 45-F-c | 325 Japanese . . . Ragged Robin ‘anunculus . acrts flore pleno Raphiolepis indica Rapid-growing trees and shrubs Raspberry, Flowerin Rocky Mountain Flowering: Thorn-leaved . . Reed, Common . Giant . Red-bud . Red flowers Saal Shrubs Red-hot Poker Plant Refinei lawn plantanney Reseda odorata 12-A-b, 14-B, 19-A, 19-I, 22-C-b-1, 4i, 43-F-b 46-A-a, 46-E . 15-C, 31-B-g... . 30-A oe geht an Penge 0- . 1D 43-E-a, 45-D-d . . 23-A, 23-B 26-B-c, 28-A, 29-E-a, 37-A-¢, 44 44-B-a 19- C, 29-E-a, 37-A-a : 29-E-a . SS ge AT Ags aS 2 Oe ea aie Reape UoPcY bay 2.4 31-E at chet Bee Syrah at em 11-A,. ‘13: A-c,. 14-A-a, 19-A, 19-E-a, 22-A, 39, 40-C-b, 41, 42-A-a, 43-B-a, BANG A, Tha, weaclay nobipe e ta kee 31-5 3 ot oie Hare Saas 19-E, 43-F-d 31- Bk, 31-B-1, 31-D, 31-G, ai, 45-1. 29-I, 32-A, 32-B, 32-D | : : 124, 135, 154, 159, 174, 293, 306, 335, 337 140, 225 212 140 305, ae 176, 1 191; 197, 207, 276, 314 156, 207, 276 207 234 229 119, 129, 133, 154, 157, 173, 285, 291, 293, 296, 301, 316, 222 156, 307 226, 227, 229, 231, 232, 330 210, 240, 241 Rhamnus NAME Rhamnus (in variety) . . caroliniana. . . . « CORATHCG. 34) ee Mahe Srangula (variety sees) eum officinale . Rhexia virginica . Rhododendron (in variety) ; arborescens arbuttfolium azaleoides . . calendulaceum. . campanulatum. WARIENSE We!) Tal ie) -!, sh a EOARESCENS: 0) oi ss! he. | a e) ec 2 ele; te carolintanum . . catawbiense . - catawbiense album. 6 catawbiense hybridum. . Dwarf . SPA ee Early-flowering af ferrugineum . . . .« 1 TAIT OM (Eee a PEI sy a. si)! e, tef te HODOMICUME .\ 6 as fet tne WACMIPIETE oliyce) oa e ledvjokum ss es maximum Aw iises WMOTIETS ne tekiive\')ei eee PASTIRIOINE, hen) fe) se Myrtle-leaved . . . nudifiorum aha al aera obtusum amoenum. = ponticum SO ete as tla {14)477) cy ain usty-leaved ; amarnowi vaseyt . viscosum Rhododendrons, Books on. Directions for planting of Ground cover for 3 Hybrids and Species. . Maintenanceof . . . Select list of - Rhodora . canadensis . A Rhodomyrtus tomentosus a Rhodotypos kerriotdes . . Rhubarb, Medicinal Rhus (in variety) ; Canadensis. . . » »« copallina < EDISIES Te Nae Vth a waste RGU en a) Gehan miel bye TRMSCONS ent 16h Nie) vet. oa toxicodendron.. . . typhina. is COTM cil) is)’ iio, Mate Ribbon-grass. ated! Ribes (in wemiety) rane a lpinum atte americanum . . . aureum ie ti fet aig Seite gordonianum . . . . oxycanthoides . eae Rice Paper Plant .. . River Bank Plantings . Robinia (in weneny) hispida pseudacacta pseudacacia bessoniana pseudacacia pyramidalis . AES OSE os Ve leis i pes tured) letalte 12-C, 27, 28-A 12-A-b, 12-D, 12-E-b, 12-E-d, 16-D-a, 24-B-b, 25-B, 40-C-b, Sih ahs cick 12-A-b. . Si de Sita Sh 13-B-b, “17, 19-G-b, 24-A-b, 27, 28-A, 33-E-a, 39, "40-B, 4 2-B-a, 44-G . -E-a . ak as Nave, OF hee tote 33-E-a, 10 My eae gS YF BB-Ba OS 7sArai is Per hati feus et ee Eset chan yale Ha ey Moe aad 33-E-a . - 33-E-a fs 33-E-a . pe 5 15-A, s3-E-a : ¢ 33-E-a i A 33-E-a Phusrieere foi 5 io, 45-F-d, 46-H-b. he Arad tua ee a 15-A, 45-F-d . i init oh. Ute ete 45-F-b 15-A, 33-E-a | 1 4a) ae Daal re ene aa ale 5 : 19-C, 45-F-4, 46-H-b -E-a 33-E-a . . 5 aia 33-E-a . 4 an 33-E-a = . . . . BaoPra hate) shila: deh: nojuloahicrtts So-bra,y ASD re Sees os hey enh AD-EB) gotta iiner alse les ever leh lla tp ue 33-E-a . é atte A ~ 33-E-a . 7 as ate 45-F-d . Ath A . 45-F-b . A BU emhe 15-A Seeime - 33-E-a . LIP or eM Te eta att creme 33-E-a . 5 aed Nake et eee 33-E-a . Cath Hewerath ete ted oie OTA rent te) So's WoT ke Releyamnivey mieten ie 33-E-a e e e . . e . . e 33-E 5 Re uRicue heim or iht 3 13-B-a, 15-B, 19-E-a, 29-H . 13-B-a, 15-B, 19-E-a, 29-H. 43-D, 43-F-b . . 13-A-b, 19-B, 19-G-b, 20. B, 26-B-c, PAL AO Rear a 3115 an 17, 20-D-b E 13-A-b, 13- B-b, 29- B, 24- Bb, 29-E-a, 37-B-a, 40-B 3 13-A-b, 26-B-c, 29-E-a 14-B, 19-C, 45-H-b . .. . 20-B, 20-C, 25-B, 26-A-c, ae AG-B ete ts viet die 38-B 20-B, 20-C, 22-A, 25-B, 26-A sae 29-E-2, Soa hel 44-C-a. . 31-L-c, 32-G-b-1 Ie aAy Al one \ hee CAM Saag eee ot AND DARA OR Ue Ue OT Oe ee are 25-B 13-A-b, '19- B, 19-F-a, oe :B 37-A-a, 41, 44-B-a . 37-A-a . Pe ue 44-A-a, Aaapbee in em ee bis ASN=a: Vin ktsiateh eh ae byt be PDE Ae Seu ts Passe AMS 42-C - 3 14-B, 26-B-c, 42-A- -a, AER ole NWA 10-C, 11-A, 17, 19-C, 19-G-b, 23-A, ey 24- ri ae paaty 37-A-b, 20-C; 25-B, 29-E-a, Robinia Pace 120, 166 125, 193, 197 124, 125, 126, 147, 181, 187, 291, 296, 313 a isl 149, 159, 181, 193, 197, oe , 285, 289, 297, 317, illus. 255, 130, 139, 157, 209 130, 139, 157, 209 304, 306 129, 155, 159, 163, 191, 193, 296 235 149, 166 129, 131, 173, 181, 187, 207 277, 290 129, 191, 207 135, 155, 329 163, 187, 190, 207, 337, 338 280 280 163, Pts 187, 190, 207, 281, 298 135, 191, 296, 324 117, 119, 149, 155, 159, 177, 181, 183, 186, 191, 276, 297 337 135 Rock Cress NAME Rock Cress . Alpine. . Dwarf Alpine . Grecian Purple Purple . Rock gardens, Japanese gar- dens, and wall gardens . Books on . Deciduous trees and shrubs. Evergreens ' Perennials for. . Rock Purslane . . Rock Rose . . . Laurel-leaved . Root pruning as aid to trans- planting . la Rosa (in variety) alba. arkansana . blanda . carolina cinnamomea . 3 foetida, variety harisoni 5 hugonis. 4 laevigata lucida . lucida alba multiflora . nitida . polyantha (in variety) tubiginosa . . 5 rubiginosa hybrida tubrifolia . Tugosa . seligera Sie ietetemie spinosissima 2 spinosissima altaica . wichuraiana d Rosmarinus officinalis Best hybrid tea roses. Books on . Climbing roses, Lists of best . Ground covers for . Hardiest as tested in Central Ontario and Maine . Crimson and red Rose (in variety) Rose Acacia . Rose Apple . Rose Bay Rose Box Franchet’s Himalayan. Silver-leaved . Rose, Arkansas . Carolina Cherokee . . . Climbing . . . Cinnamon . A Father Hugo's s ain, wea ae Glossy . Harison’s Yellow . Japanese Japanese Ciabing ee ate! Meadow . or serine Memorial . 426 GROUP 24-E, 29-F, 31-B-b, eT he ait 29-A, 29-F, 31-B-b ‘ 1S-Gie a A 31-B-a . 29-F, 33-E-b we ac. 28-B, 29-B, SE -B-d, 3L-K-a, 33-E-b, 45-I. LG pee ye eae 12- Ed, "34-A, 8£D, 37-A-a, 43 43-C-a, 19-G-b . 44-B-a . 12-B, 20-B, 20-C, 20-D-b, a1, 26-B-<, 46-C-b eas 20-D-b, 26-B-c 20-D-b, 21, 26-A-c, 46-C-b . 19-G-b, 21 19-G-b, 20-B, 20-C, 20-D-b, 26-Be 13-B-a, 20-D-b, 26-B-c Sans - 12-B 20-B, 20-D- b, 37-B- 37-B-a . 5 20-B, 20-D-b 12-A-b, 12- E-d, 17 20- B, 20- aC; 20-D -b, 24-B-b, 25-B, 26-A-c, 40-B, 43-E-b, 44-A-a, 45-B-b, 45-F-a, 46-A-a . . 18-B, 20-D-b, 26-A-c, 29-E-a, 43-C-a . 13-A-a, 19- G-b, 20-D- Pi ares aie 18-B, 29-E-a . bs c 18-B, 20-D-b, 29- E-c" 37-B-b, 45-F-a. 37-B-b, 45-F-a 18-A, 33-E-b . S3-D oT te et 33-D-c . Doe aati ieia Ve hla Meth arene 29ST eave melas Manele yas 33-D-b 33-D-b-1 33-D-b-5 33-B-b-2 33-D-b-3 33-D-b-4 13-B-b, 19- C, 19-E- b, 34- D, 37- A-a, 39, 43-C-a, 43-F-a, 43-F-b, 43-F-c, 43-F-d. 14-B, 26-B-c, asain ‘it F-a. e 43-D : 43-E-a, 43-F-a. 43-D, 43-F-a, 43-F-b, 45-G . 45-G, 46-C-a, 46-H-b. . . 45-F-d, 45-G, 46-C-a 4A3-b)AS-Boai te bom oe retil sdohe 44-B-a . Fahne 18-B, 20-D-b, 26-B- Shescas se 20-D-b, 21, 26-A-c, 46-C-b . 19-F-b, 31-H 12-A-b, 12-E-d, 17, 20-B, 20-C, 20-D-b, 24-B-b, 25-B, 26-A- -c, 40-B, 43-E-b, 44-A-a, 45-B-b, 45-F-a, 46-A-a . 19-G-b, 20-B, 20-C, 20-D-b, 26-B-c_. sehrse a -B, 20-C, 20-D- b, a cake 18-B, 20-D-b, 29-E-c Rose PAGE 184, 208, 222, 276, 331 203, 208, 223 1 140, 197, 204, 223, 233, 253, 330 325 41, illus. 34 126, 260, 261, 276, 303, 327 159 314 124, 163, 164, 166, 170, 191, 337 151, 166, 191 155 166, 170, 190, 337 159, 170 159. 163, 164, 166, 191 130, 166, 191 124 163, 166, 277 277 163, 166 124, 126, 149, 163, 164, 166, 181, 187, 190, 290, 305, 313, 321, 324, 3 151, 166, 190, 207, 303 129, 159, 166, 191 151, 207 151, 166, 207 27 31, 156, 157, 261, 276, 285, 303, 306, 307 135, 191, 296, 324 304 305, 307 304, 306, 327, 327, 336, 340 326, 327, 336 304, 306 314 ane 166, 191 166, 170, 190, 337 158, 231 124, 126, 149, 163, 164, 166, 181, 187, 190, 290, 305, 313, 321, 324, 335 159, 163, 164, 166, 191 ad 164, 166, 170, 191, 151, 166, 207 UE eS i Rose NAME Rose, Native . ... Prairie . Protection of roses | . Pruning of roses . Red-leaved suave RICOLCH avai hia) alike Shining-leaved Tausendschoen White-flowered . White-flowered Glossy Rose gardens, Fertilizer | for Rose of Sharon . Blue. a ehits Royal Poinciana. | | ; Rubber Tree F Rubber, Wild 5 Rubus (in variety) crataegifolius . delictosus . y dumetorum. . . odoraius . Rudbeckia (in variety) . laciniata . maxima. . Rumex acetosella’ Rush, Flowering Russelia juncea . Rynchospora alba roe planeta Recimoth” Meadow Scarlet. . Wormwood . 2 ileal montevidensis. Salix (in variety) MEIN hoc) Soc dene babylonica . blanda . caprea . discolor incana . lucida . nigra : pentandra . tristis vitellina ; vitellina aurea vitellina britzensts Salpiglossis sinuata . Salt Tree 3 ; Salvia Gin variety) azurea . azurea grandiflora’ Blue : greggt . grees alba . exican Officinalis . pratensis splendens . hite Mexican , Sambucus (in variety) . canadensis ek canadensis aurea. . . racemosa Sandwort Tufted . Sandy soils, Plants for A Sanguinaria canadensis Sangutsorba minor . " Santolina chamaecyparissus Sapium sebiferum Saponaria ocymoides , 427 Group 12-E-d, 45-G 18-B, 20-D-b, 26-A-c, 29-E-a, 43-C-a i 20-B, 20-D-b : 13-. paar 18-B, 19-G-b, 20-D-b, 26-B-<, 29-E-a eS 13-B-a, 20-D-b, 26-B-c SUe TAA Pl 33-D-a. . Sic etitas 19-G-b 19-G-b, 21 11-B, 12-D, 14-B, 16-A, 19-D, 19-I, 26-B-c, 40-B, 40-C-a, AA, 44-G 45-B-b, 45-E OLS & DANTE ALR SEL NEE Rb AUNT ASEB Dye VAete CaM eel neh RM ie ee ae Pre) So OSA Cy Me Pe VET SMe cei Pa 43-J-a . 20-D-a, 30-A . -a Fine 19-C, 29-E-a, 37-A-a 29-E-a 26-B-c, 28-A, 20-E-a, 37-A-a, 44-B-a | 31-B-h, ar I, 31-K-a E ails 4e-Bb, 4 19-F ta 14-A-a, 21 . PNB fiir 32-A, 32-E, 32-H-a BN aad Wh 24- D, 4 5-F-c . SSS Ce DA a a sees) MIR] er) eS AES AN WMA Lirgay tidiscany tet ce hp Fall ite 31-B-i . POR RPA AMERY 24-E, gt Pei em eaeen iit 45 Sh tenet tei noe Te 24- 5 32-E, 32-G “b-2, 35- Bb A 45-F-a CUD ama fa 20-D-a, 30-A 13-56) 17)19-C. 19Gb, 20-B, 23-B, 26-A-c, 42-A-a, 46-E 14-B 13-B-c, 19-B, 19-G-b, '20-B aie IBC, 34-E. 1 BARB? ee “ 28-B, 29-C, 31- B- b, 31-C-b, ‘40-A u 37-B-b. . ative 24-E, 29-B, 32- G- b-1, 37-B-b aie 45-H-a. . ae 15-C, 29-A, 31- B-c, 31-C-b . Saponaria PAGE 126, 327 151, 166, 190, 207, 303 104 27 163, 166 129, 151, 159, 166, 191, 207 130, 166, 191 251 159 159, 170 98 120, 125, 135, 144, 156, 159 191, 289, 291, 297, 316, 321, 323 20 156, 207, 276 207 191, 197, 207, 276, 314 Ei 232, 233 242, 244, 266. 280 234 336, 337 117, 119, 125, 177, 180, 212, 313 170, 189 149 134 154, 158, 293 158 166, 212 131, 149, 156, 159, 163, 177, 190, 297, 338 135 131, 155, 159, 163 139, 184 204 181 198, 205, 223, 228, 289 277 184, 205, 244, 277 329 140, 204, 223, 228 Sarracenia NAME Sarracenia dase es ae tas purpurea . eatery ve S ras, Common. | . . officinale . . en Ate Savin, Dwarf Tamarisk-leaved - Saxtfraga (in variety) cordifolia Ssarmentosa virginiensts Saxifrage. . 5 Early-blooming Scabiosa atropurpurea caucasica ; Giant graminifolia Grass-leaved . sylvatica oodland. . . . Scarlet Bush fA os Scented Flowers Schizanthus pinnatus . Schizophragma hydrangeotdes . Sciadopitys verticillata . Scilla paepennelate ‘ sibirica Ono icrt wd Scirpus lacustris. ; tabernaemontanus zebrinus Scotch Broom : Screen plantings, Lists for Sea Holly, Amethyst Sea Lavender, Broad-leaved Sea Poppy . . Seaside planting, Trees and. shrubs for. Hardy in less severe seaside exposures ts Conifers Deciduous trees Shrubs . Hardy under. exposure of North Atlantic Cost a Sra; ‘ee! “ete 0. 86 ora eria oelcn = Conifers Deciduous trees bs . ante Sede vem Pokv ie. Se ten ea Le Variegated Sweet . . . Sedum (in Variety? « . acre. aid 3 album. 1 6 + « « nevi. As era Mateys sexangulare spectabtle spurium sloloniferum . . Seeding annuals . Seeding seasons (for lawns) Select list of horticultural varieties Evergreens, Broad-leaved Other broad-leaved ever- BLCENSA eS iu ies Black Rhododendronsand azaleas Lilacs . wee ee Lilies for Calcareous soil | Clay soil. Easy culture in ‘garden soil Moist and boggy locations Opensun . 3 Sandy or dry soils . Shady locations . Undergrowth . Lily table . . Peonies. 2 ROSES SEC hae eh uae & Trees, Small Flowering . Sempervivum (in variety) arachnoideum . calcareum . teclorum 30-A, 31-M-a, 45-J 15-C, 31-B-a, 46- Ba 35-B-a. . 45-A-b . : ae 31-B-a, 31-M-a, 46-B-a . 3a Boy Pelghte daw Bete Oe 31-B-e, 31- Bie Sa OP ee ke SSB Ay aM yan se Ue coun oo Rete ae SIEDY eoec aise het ee Sere 428 GrRouP i) OY ee ae eM RA re OCT 24-A-a . Te toh Dei Shite eae DONA. AA Coat Ve ected eh is 22-A, 44-C-a. .. an 8 26-A=Diee i) ie)! ie ad ae 15-A, 18-A. é BU tre SIED Pairs” Pee et wis SLEDS CN ey ea icute eee 31-D PeUrS kok des 43-D, 43-F-c, 43-F-d, 43-H. . 32-A, 32-E. 6 BARB M he Mereule aint rg let ve 9-A, 9-B, 14-A-a, 16-A, 45-E BO-Be ie ate cian bys Miele hhety Ne 36-A_. SLD. nel tees ee on ee 31-LE-b. . ° 19-F-a, 24-B- b, 26-B-c, 45- F-e a 12-Cy 2s hes : 24-E, 31-B-e, AS Ee Me BDSG Sat 5 id Ge Hc DAVE se eee ly calree elas) Bis LO Rote ay. Gof dein te Uh walle, (hat 26-Be ia deta Mee ie Merb fe AEEB-Aya> he eiel uci idk vat b louy ie ZO=TS-Cr se ek ete, Pcie ey es OBS, ot oe eae ee! eh sya te 20-AEDisis ite 6s oa) re. We die 26-A-a. . Bee 26-A-c . Ar ones 30-B, 31- L-b A ares 31-L’b . 24-F, 31-B-j, 31 31 -B-k, 31-M-a, a, 45-5 15-C, 29-F, G. isc. 2B t | 8 I OQ 2 ee % ® = « ese!" e er 6 Le) se 8) le) e . © © © © ee 8 Cen yar es ee Ee Sempervivum PAGE 235 180 173, 314 173, 314 190 138, 151 212, 235, 331 140, 222, 336 265 320 Ber 222, 235, 336 2 304, 307, 308 275 240, 242 260 re 113, 134, 145, 323 157, 181, 191, 325 125, 176 184, 224, 330 224, 226 184 188, illus. 254 140, 208, 384 Senecio NAME Senecio clivorum . cineraria Scandens . Senna, Argentine rpion . Severinia buxifolia Shad-bush Shade-loving plants Shade of woodland, Plants for. Shaded locations, Plants i Shasta Daisy. Large . Sheep Berry . Gkephsidia 2 argentea . 5 canadensis . Shooting Star AR aaS Shore Grape . hia dg dense Shore Planting (See_ Lake, River, or Spaside) Shortia . . galacifolia . . Shrubs for accent and speci- mens. . For forcing in water in early spring . aes Fast-growing Sidalcea (in cane candida. . Silene alpestris maritima pennsylvanica . SCHUTIQ Se) iss IOAN 6 fe Silk Vine. . Ae ate BIB VEUSEIE Se. eel Vennise Silver Bell Tree. . . Silver Berry. . . . Silver Vine . . Chinese . Dark-leaved | Skimmia japonica Japanese Small garden areas, Plants for. Smilacina racemosa . - Smilax. Florida. hispida lanceolata . tolundifolia . . Smoke Bush . : Snakeroot . . Large Button . Mottled Virginia White . Snapdragon . Half-dwarf. . . . . Sneezeweed . . .. .- all) 3 - Yellow . Snowball . Chinese Japanese Pi Single J; apanese Snowberry . . Evergreen . eth okt ve SSHOWAESUISIN Fs) ure tied tol) evita Snow Creeper rs SHOWGLOD: . « « Common Oy CRT Re een ee Snowflake . . . .« »« Summer Snow Garland: Hybrid . Snow-in-summer. . Snow Wreath 429 GROUP DIRG-a i BleLeGin vei ge tien! ae atts Fey 0 ER OT SD sD, 35-B-a 45-F-c, 45-K-b | | 45-A-b, 45- aS ahs 43-E-a, 43 13-B-c, i7, ADA, 2 20-D-a, 22- B, 26-B- -2, ae , 28 i 31B -B-f, 31-F, 31-I, 31-K-c 13- me, 19-C, 26-B-c, 27° 12-E-b, 12-E-d 12-E-b, 12- ee 25- B, 26-8-€, 29- E-a 15- iy a 43-J-a . 15-A, 29-H, 33-E-b, 45-A-b, 45-J 15-A, 29-H, 33-E-g, 45-A-b, 45-J DAA Eer Cena ainedh tek oyhara| veal teva ve 41 23-B 31-B-f, 31-C-a. 31-B-f, 31-C-a. 15-C 15-C A 15-C . : 43-A, 43-B-b | 25-C, 29-E-c, 34- oe 34- E, 45-L - 14-B, 19-B, eC -a Nebobar i '42-B- “2, 45-H-a . 25-B rick = C; 24-C-a, 25- CG, ‘34 ¢, 34. D, 34- E DCR ie Tih ag AEP AN: Ua heise Ge) BIE! es C 14-B, 19-C, 45-H-b Eye ae: 31-C- oH ee Deas 31- B- -j, ee E, 31-L-c, 45-1 31-J, 32-A, 32-E, 32- Hb, 35- A- “2, 35-A-b, 39, 45-I. . 32-H-a'. 0s. 31-K-c, 1 ae 31-E, 31-L-c . . SES A AGN hee 13-A-b, 19-B 11-B, 12-E-d, 12-E-e, 13-A-a, 13-B-a, 17, 20-B, 20-D-a, 20- oi a heaiiasa 45-F-a, cai Dyno 33-E-b . 13-A- cai 19-A, 19-B, 19-G-a, 41, 42-A-a. 15-C, 24- We 29-B, 29-F, eae a a bh 31-M-a 45-F-c . Snow Wreath PaGE 227, 235 244 265 325, 332 319, 323 305, 308 131, 149, 154, 165, 173, 191, ole 285, 293 196 192 225, 230, 232, 234 229 130, 156, 191, 193 126 126, 187, 190, 207 140 310 139, 209, 253, 320, 331 139, 209, 253, 320, 331 135 301, 302 187, 207, 261, 333 135, 155, 158, 182, 297, 328 316 187 182, 183, 187, 260, 261 332 13%. 260 187 135, 155, 329 197, 227, 331 184 319 319 226, 230, 235, 330 Se, oA 242, 246, 264, 285, 1 290, 291, illus. 206 326 129, 155 120, 126, 129, 130, 149, 163, 166, 192,297,324,337, illus.238 2 129, 154, 155, 158, 293, 297 ve ee, 204, 208, 209, 223, 326 Soapwort NAME Soapwort, Rock . Soil co gaat, Various types Alkaline soils . . Boggy and peaty soils ggy situations retry situations Clay soils . : Shrubs for Trees for Vines for. Drought-resisting plants” Light and sandy aoe hrubs for . Trees for Rite Wanes for, je ce Solandra guttata . Solanum (in variety) dulcamara . jasminoides . jasminotdes grandiflorum. seaforthianum . aoe wendlandi . Beane (in variety) arguia . caesia . canadensis . neglecta. speciosa Pets Solomon's Seal . Sophora . . Sophora (in variety) japonica . vicitfolia Sorbaria arborea . arborea glabrata sorbifolia . . Sorbus (in variety) . americana . aucuparia . . hybrida fastigiata quercifolia . - Sorrel, Sheep. Wood BARE Sour Gum Sourwood South Atlantic § States, Plants Border planting : Shrubs, Low-growing * de- ciduous pgiaeee Low- ~growing ever- Sheba: " Medium-growing deciduous. Shrubs, Medium-growing evergreen. . Evergreens Formal effects. . Fruit valuable for colour effects. . Py tay ve Ground cover . Dry places Moist places Hedges... ; Holding leaves in winter | Not holding leaves in winter Not used in North 5 Ihrubs) <5: Trees Perennials for gardens ‘and cut flowers Perennials for naturalizing in in wild gardens . Specimens . Shrubs . Trees Street planting Vines . Southernwood | Spacing of plants Spatter-doc Specimen trees and shrubs’ 430 GROUP 15-C, 29-A, 31-B-c, 31-C-b . 28-B 29-C, 31-C-b, 39 - 42-C A 13-A-b, 24-B-b 11-A, 19-F-b, 45-H-a, 15-K-2 -a 13-A-b, 24- Ha Die 14-A-a, 16-D -b-1 30-B 30-A Haat ia Siete tel RO Was eae 14-A-a, 19-D, 22-A, 45-H-a . AD Bee grein sie aah Noa ine ae CAS ERE Uy alte acters wiry bn Ge ree Nog Yt ae Ce Won es 45-F-b. . . 45-F-c . 45-F-d . 45-D . 45-E 45-G 45- Ay 45-A-b . 45-A-a 45-B. 45-B-a . 45-B-b . Aba. 45-K-b. 45-K-a . 24-E, 31-B-f, 31- Bi, 37-A-c, 37-B-b 43-1. 14, Specimen Trees PAGE 140, 204, 223, 228 227, 229, 528 198 198 228, 281 180 198 205, 228, 285 ie 182 119, 158, 329, 331 , 182 2 133, 156, 173, 328 318 332 323 3 ee 224, 226, 276, 277 310 132, illus. 110, 111 Eaike-Gawened ‘ Ane Spice bush 5. Spiderwort Common . . Spikenard, American H False. ai te Serta Spindle Bees Bunge’s.. = cle European . hee is Half-evergreen had is Japanese . aie Spiraea (in variety). EN ie argula . pyle billardi bumalda anthony waterer . callosa alba : douglast aad ie japonicaalba . . . pruntfolia . ; pruntfolia flore pleno « : salicifolia . ay abe SOTUROLEE Woe te) et) is tomentosa 2 vanhouttet . PEUEN ERNE st ish ay iver oe Spirea Pel sereiet vs PRillard’s Blue. Chinese a vammleaag Ash ; Crimson : David's Douglas. . Dwarf White . Fortune’s White . Mountain Ash-leaved Sorb-leaved . . . Veitch’s ev fie Spleenwort, Ebony . Che Maidenhair istics We Spraying . A Sprekelia formosissima é Spring Beauty Spring-flowering plants. Spruce yt Black Hills Colorado Columnar Norway Compact Norway. Cone-shaped aah Dwarf Blue . . Dwarf Norway Dwarf Oriental Dwarf Pyramidal Norway Engelmann’s . Globe Douglas. Gregory’s Dwarf Norway Koster’s Blue. . Norway Oriental. 2 a Norway Tablet-shaped.. White... Spurge, Carolina. Flowering . Japanese 431 GROUP 29-F, 30-A, 31-I, cals dered wither hte 15-C, 29-A, 29-G . stil apt ce Sahn 15-C, 31-B-a . aya tee yt ls 31-B-e . 29-F 31-B-e . 19-A, 19- F-a, 20-D-a, 27, 28-A, 30-A_ | 37-B-a, 39, 40-B, ie sig are foie -C 31-B-a, ita ma \ rs 31-D 13- A-c, 45-G 22-C-b-1 13-A-a, 19-A, 19-B, 19-G-a, 41, 42-A-a. 19-D, 42-A-a 12-B, 13-A-a, 19-D, 19-E-b, 19-I, 45-F-a 12-B, 19-D : 13-A- “b, ASG! b, 42-A-a, 45-F-c . 19-A P ree ares 19-C, 26-A- -C, 29-E-a . ath as tee 44-B-a wl 19-E-b, 25-B, 29-E-a, 42-A-a, 44-B-a 5 12-D, 12. E-c, 12-E-e, 13-A-b, 17, 19-B, 19-G- -a, 19-I, 24-B-b, 38-C- ae 42- A-a, 45-F hah 46-C-a 7 RON, 13-A-b. . Baye AOS Poth ony ae eke 19-D, 42- ya apes 13-A-a, 16-C, 19- H, 31- B-i -i, 31-Bi, 45-F-a, 45-H-b. 19-D, 19-I, 42-A-b 12-B, 13-A-a, 19-D, 19- E-b, 19-I, 45-F-a 31-B-g, 31-L-c. . 42-A-b. . 13-A-a... 172) 5 eR Dt SO a) A ri i ati BOR tet LGA) tot) Die hone Fite! ieee 44-B-a . rt IL Pipe, cone SR Pee TS -ACD YA ae toh sible) cory vety te 29-D-a MOAR alas tistey bith" at eae PAS Fal DES Ae es ee ee 36-E-b . 31-C-b . 19-A, 31- B. Bi) 12-C, 14-A- re ras 39, 42- D 9-A, 9-B 9-C iS aS A Rc hed ate 44-A-a, ‘44-A-b, FTE PO east Pei eh |e APR IUSAY ate isi) cays aie He te cee Le ey 16-D-b-2 . DOOOOOOOO OL Se ate ee = oe Se 9-B, 39, 46-H-a . 15-A, 18-A . kota 26-A“b, 44-F. . 9- -A, 9-B, 13-A- -a, 16-B- -a, 23- A, 24-Ca, 25-A, 44-A-a, 44-F, 46-A-b . 16-B-a . 14-A-b, ‘16-A, 16-D-b- 5 44-D 26-A-b. Ae sa hae 9-A, 9-B, 16-D-b-2 46-H-a. . 9-E 9-A, 9-B, 24-A- -a, 25-A, 26-A-b, 27, 44-F 29-C aL cath Vis 9 Mo Ath eye Oveny Nc 15-C . 15-A, 15-C, 29-B, 29-C, 29-E-b, 29-H, 33-E-b, 46-B-a, 46-B-b : ’ Spurge PAGE 208, 212, 232, 330 140, 204 140, 222 224 208 24 2. 154, 157, 165, 193, 196, 212, me a 289, 296, 316, 325 129, 135, 163, 174 139 120 129, 154, 155, 158, 293, 297 156, 297 124, 129, 156, 157, 159, 324 124, 156 297 129 129, 159, 297, 326 154 156, 190, 207 314 157, 187, 207, 297, 314 125, 126, 129, 149, 155, 158, 159, 182, 281, 297, 326, 337 156, 297 128, 146, 159, 226, 233, 329 156, 159, 297 124, 129, 156, 157, 159, 324 225, 234 297 129 124, 156 187, 207 314 129 206 206 75 274 228 154, 222 a a Aah 212, 285, 298, illus. 111 113 313, 316 112, 119 135, 147 114 114 114 114, 151 114 114 111, 112, 284, 339 114 114, 138, 151 112, 190, 316 112, 124, 145, 177, 182, 186, ae 313, 316, 335 135, 145, 147, 314 190 112, 147 339° 114 111, 112, 180, 186, 190, 193, 316 205 140 138, 140, 204, 205, 207, 209, 253, 336, illus. 270 Squill NAME Satie ve., were Siberian Stachys lanata . Stagger Bush. . Staphylea Seyete saa (DINO ley cae oe © Ser See ee et ee te 0.6 6 6 wir eee ey . trifolia . ; Star of Bethlehem - - SULALWOKE a cs ve Statice latifolia a oes : Steeple*Bushis 5 cic Le Stellaria holostea ae media . Li) tive ake Stenanthium robustum : Stenolobium stans, vanely sam- bucifolia . Bie Stephanandra’ <5". 0 ws flexuosa Rots ire Sterculia platanifolia ee hes Stemia (4; toate Dwarf . MA PRS OE he SEMTGIA NENG, os ie se Stewartia pentagyna ary 3 Shicktight 7 owls, wea ek ce. eae spartea Ee Sy ve Neh! ts Stock, Ten Weeks . . . . Brompton . Se ee Common aveses tis se Stokesia cyanea dees Da StyJobn's Works.) oho). Buckley's: Siew tow nc) terre PSUSNAGE Sia divoat sc bes Wy ete, |e Hybrid ene Ten ie ots Nye Kalm’s. . 5 eg aS Large- flowered . . NIGUNCAIN sn ee rel Le Naked-flowered . . .. Shrubby P Stone, Vines to grow on . Stone-breaker Stonecrop (in variety) . ; Brilliant . Srl WaraGreenieie 275) INTOSSV ee eG en wed oe Nevius’... Purple... 5 : eat Spreadingie sce ists - WHIhtey sae eso os ' Broad-leaved . Storax, American” <0 '; “¢. . Japanese . Src ake Strawberry Bush . . 5 Running . Se GO Oe Bieawherry Sirah ce to Strawberry Tree. . . . . Strawberry, wi APSE es iieet Yellow . 5 te Straw Flower A Street and avenue planting, Trees for . : Hardy under all conditions . Special conditions Undesirable trees for streets. Styrax americana : japonica obassia. . Sumac) Fragrant . MITE’: Siete ee. Smooth Wenonah ws Staghorn Summer-flowering Plants . Summer Lilac v5) 3) ''5) 2s Sundrops : A hs Sunflower, Hardy A Single Annual R Sunny exposures, Perennials for BBB sites) trae tee tee eka ror aneeens BRAG it ee cal es Pee) Leh titerme gee ta enters PASE hae. Ga Laat Cok Ue ee tay eae 45-F-a aT face te Sea P eerie SE RTS 42-B-a m a eat ee, 20-A, 45-H-b . eds 13- B-c, 20-A, 20-B, 28- A, 45-H-b |. 36-B Py AS ers 15-C, 29-A, 31-B-b, 31-M-b. ine 31-B-e, 31-B-i F Sige 43-F-c . 13-A-a, 40-B, 42- A-a, 45- F-a, 46-F . 13-A-a, 40-B, are 45- ite: 46-F 45-H-a, AS Rea i 32-G-b-l . . SHAD neem ane he ne ONRL Sm ai te 35-B-b . Ahan rs ere 19- D, 19- -G-b, 45- H-b- Be 45-F-a . em Ot 30-A, 45-J . 24-E, 31- Bi, 31- Bk, 31-M-a, 45-J. 15-C 15-C, 29-G. oe RAIN: A eS 15-C, 29-F, 29-6 . by sy SS ~ 2° A by ©. QO 11-B, 13-B-b, 14- B, 0- 15-B, 18-B, 28-B, 29-C Che ere ized 13-B-b, 24-C-b, 27, 28-A, oe A-a, 40-B, 43-F-d, 45-P-c, 46-C-b, 4 6-1 AP he 45-G, 45-K-b . Sp Veheeats Says ABA y ayece ite ae : AERIS 4 oncaeid ar po Pe «rei LTP ay rR Nm Rat rune LOM gor ok are 10-A - 10-B 10-C . 45-F-c . 45-F-c, 45-H-b 45-F-c . 17, 20- D-b, 39. 13-A-b, 13-B-b, 22-B, 24-B-b, 25-B, 29- E-a, 37-B-a, 40- Btw 13-A-b, 26-B-c, 29-E-a 20-B, 20-C, 25-B, 26-A- c, '29-E-a, 46-C- b, 46-F 20-B, 20-C, 22-A, 25- B, 26-A- -C, 29- E-a, 38-C-b, 44-C-a . : 19-C, 31-B. 19-D, 19-H, STA, 40-B, 45-F-<, 45-H-b ; 24-E 31-B-h, Beh C-a, 31- E, ‘1 1, 31- K-a, 31-M-b, see 45-I . 32-A 29-Gie nee he Sunny Exposures PAGE 162, 329 ee 162, 163, 197, 329 140, 204, 223, 235 24 212, 213° 230 307 129, 290, 297, 324, 338 129, 290, 297, 324, 338 329, 331 2 135, 156, 159, 329 212 280 246 246 240, 242, 246 140, 224, 232 156, 158, illus. 226 175 212, 331 326, 329 120, 131, 135, 163 139, 151, 197, 205 130, 182, 193, 196, 276, 289, 307, 325, 337 149, 166, 285 129, 131, 173, 181, 187, 207, 277 129, 191, 207 163, 187, 190, 207, 337, 338 163, 173, 187, 190, 207, 281, 314 155, 224 156, 159, 276, 289, 325 184 226, 227, 230, 232, 233, 235, 280, 330 240 208 ya! Supple-Jack NAME RISE JACK cM al Vile exer Surinam Cherry av te Swainsona 5 2 Swainsona galegifolia 4 Swamp-pink. . .. Sweet Gum... . Sweet Leaf, a amg Sweet Pea Hardy . Sweet Rocket Sweet-scented Flowers. . Sweet Sultan. Sweet William Wal sr a Sword Flower (See also Gladio- lus) Bris Sena as Sycamore. Symphoricarpos (in variety) occidentalis. . Tacemosus . vulgaris. Symplocos paniculata Syringa (in meee): japonica ah he ele persica . ok thet pet tie vulgaris. vulgaris hybrida . vulgaris President Grevy. Tabernaemontana ‘ coronaria flore pleno . Table of Contents Tagetes erecta. patula . Tallow Tree, Chinese Tamarack 3 Tamarindus indica | Tamarind Manila ae Tamarisk .. Caspian French . German | Tamarix (in variety) caspica 4 Phakic PEALLRC CET oh tele (Path Mean pee odessana Tanacetum . Tansy. . Double Behe Taraxacum officinale. Tarragon. . Taxodium “distichum. b distichum pyramidatum . Taxus (in variety) baccata . . baccata fastigiata 7 baccata repandens Wr eUSTOlE aes sre a Wajeh base DOUUACHSISK A ohn Vann ey oi cuspidata MWe cuspidata brevifolia cusptdata capitata, cuspidata densa cuspidata nana Tea Plant £ Tecoma stans erate Al ven hte Apte Telanthera amoena . Pee DEH AICRIGNG, 0.6 iia) ba BE versicolor meee papyri ferum dealbata 433 GROUP 45-L . A SMU DEALER es 43-D, 43-E-a Sy Ay euler e wage Ie 35-A-a. . Sy DER a MDG 35-A-a. . Sate 24-A-a, ‘29-H, 31-L-c, 45-A-a rite 10-B, 14-A-a, 20-A, 22-A, 39, 40-B, 40-C-b, 43-B-a, 43-J-a, 45-C, 45-H-a. PROSE ere, Saniora enya h late Nia a hates 32-A, 32-C. 21-1), SAT). , ate 31-C-a, Gate 45-1 . Se 32-A 31-B-f, 31-B- 2 31. ‘I, 31-J, 31- N, 32-Ha 28-B, 31-C-a, 31-C-b, 40-A . 31-G, 36-E-a, 45-I 39 . pie -B, 12-E-d, 20- D-a, 20-D-b 12-E-e, 13-A-a, 13-B-a, 17, 20-B, 27, 42-A-b, 45-F-a, 46-C-b 13-A-a, 13-B-a, 17, 20-B, 24-B-b, 25-B-c, a sided 44-B-a, 45-F-a, 46-C-b ci Meat EE 20-B. Pt Migs 13-A-c, 1 19.B, 42-Aa. epiale 19-C yee fet Upala te 13-A-b . afd ke RAD teeta « Mints 11-B, 12-D, 12-E-a, 25-B, 37-A-a, 40-C-b ee NNats Uet sian Father beth w 19-I, 16-C-a Aetods delete ae 19-H SU RPI AME MBB CL he Vics SS 16-C Be Ag Ray Mico toichs Aah shit Mt g 32- A, 32-H- me S2-H-b 32-H-a . 3 etka 45-H-a . = 24-A-a, 24- C- “2, 26-A-t b, 40- Cc IN 43-D . ie AS=By OA oe Shi Muceal ote ele tls 43-A, 43-J-a 19- D, 24- Feat 43-F-b, 43-J-b 14-B 37-B-b . Lae -a, 16-D-b- 1, '24- A-a, 45- E, 45. Ha 40.8, 42-E, 44-G, 45-E 45-D, 45-G, 46-H-a . : 16-D-b-1, 46-H-a . ba \ NP 9-A, 9-B, 9-E, 15-A, ig-A . R 46-H-a . 9-A, 9-D, 15-A, 24-A- b, a7, 29-C, 29-H, 40-C-a . f 9-A, 16-B-a, 45-D 9-A, is iia A 9-B OE. 15-A, 16-B-a 4 ° 43-E-b, pe 45-K-b 43-F-c . : Thalia PAGE 332 304, 305 264 264 180, 209, 235, 319 117, 133, 162, 173, 285, 289, 291, 301, 310, 321, 328 163 240, 241 229, 260 227, 277, 330 275 240 225, 232, 233, 236, 246 198, 227, 228, 289 231, 274, 330 285 : 120, 126, 166 187 126, 129, 130, 149, 163, 193, 297, 324, 337 129, 130, 149, ae 182, 191, 207, 314, "324, 3 163 130, 155, 297 156 129 120, 125, 126, 187, 276, 291 159, 337 159 9 180, 182, 190, 290 304 304 301, 310 156, 182, 306, 310 135 149, 290 326 2 134, 147, 180, 323, 329 135 290, 298, 317, 323 322, 327, 339 147, 339 112, 113, 114, 139, 151 112, 113, 139, 181, 193, 205, 209, 290 tee 145, 322 2, 113, 151 i 13” 114 139, 145 ao 321, 332 Thalictrum NAME Thalictrum (in eeaety| adiantifolium . . aqutilegifolium . dipterocarpum Maidenhair Thea sinensis . Thermopsis caroliniana . Thevetia le aid Thorn. 5 Blacks sien bh eae Cockspui * Camere s hpenenaweriaa Evergreen. ia. ®. 9s) a> 4s Jerusalem. . Kangaroo . Large-flowering Large-fruited . . ee Fiery Paul’s Double flowering . Red-flowering Round-fruited . Scarlet-fruited. . Small-leaved Silver Silver . Variegated ‘Silver Washington . Sr eta pose Rough . ae auch’s Sea. . Waite ee Thuja (in variety) ; occidentalis . F occidentalis aurea . occidentalis compacta . occidentalis douglast . occidentalis dumosa occidentalis ellwangeriana occidentalis fastigiaia occidentalis globosa occidentalis hoveyt sete occidentalis, Little Gem . occidentalis lutea . occidentalis nana . occidentalis plicata occidentalis pumila c occidentalis pyramidalis . occidentalis reidi . occidentalis rosenthali : occidentalis Tom Thumb or variety umbraculifera occidentalis vervaeneana . occidentalis wagneriana . . occidentalis wareana . . . occidentalis woodwardt . . ortentalis orientalis pyramidalis. plicata . Thujopsis dolobrata « § Thunbergia . . Beene alata erecta alba . Thunbergia . White. . Thyme, Downy . Thymus serpyllum serpyllum lanuginosus Tiarella cordtfolia Tickseed : Dwarf . Lance-leaved | Tick Trefoil . Tilia (in variety) americana euchlora europaea tomentosa . vulgaris Scarlet- 434 GROUP ee eee OS Ae TREE OD k & le 15-C, 31-B-b, 31-C-a 31-HvsieL-c 5,2), 4. 31-B-h. : 34-E-b, 45-B-a, 45-K-b - STB nL StoEs.. Cees waeltegin con real he 43-F-c, 43-J-b iy Sane eee 11-A, 12-E-d, 13- B-c, 14-A-a, 19-B, 19-G-a, are, mee aa B, 39, ed = 40-C-b . 12-A-b. a ae 16-B- b, 20-D- -b, 26-B-a 33. 12-A-a, 12-B, 16-C, 20-B, 20-C, 3 E-b, 42-B-a, 45- ties 45-G, 46-A-b. 45-H-a. . : 12-A-b, 16-B-b, 16-D-a, 16-D-b-1, 20-D-b, 25-A, 26-B-a, 46-A-a.. 33-C 33-C 45-G : 12- ana -b, '20-D- b, 25- A; 26-B-a, 44- Aca i 45-F-c : : 43-D, 43- F-a, 45-F-d- 45-F-d 12-A-b, 20-D- b, » 26-B-b, 33- c ae -A-a é 29-A, 2S-F, 29-G, 31-K-b, 45-J y oo ey Oe ee ga 12-A-a, 14-A-a, 30-A, 42- et 9-B, 9-D, ere, 24-C- ~a, 44 9-A : EE. : 9A. 5 9E. . OSB elke ines Moines : 14-A-b . Si, Reims | ae PA O8, 1B, TEA! Gs 9-E vageve yey aroh Naresh ie oer 9-E, 18-A 31-B-a, 31-G-a’ 3 a) ss 222, 228 virginica . < A Dr het acer eee ier TR te 3 229 eS ooenting, Articleson. | aod 8 Om P aRR Rag anne eRe i 348 Transplanting wae Wa et Uwe ‘ 29 Annuals difficult’ to. trans- plant . Beis tacked Shira: kaka «SEP R OS 241 Annuals, Transplanting of : Sp bart iia ia Wa ob hee Mad eek ont Soe 51 rae soe a ae root Coltected tock: Transplant- ng F 4 Be hg a Cauditions for transplanting ED UG a Nanya aah Hae t+ evan Dek Peay 32 Depth for transplanting. . a eA IS ee Ry Wake a .0 ah tee ke tame matenes 39 Drainage for transplanted stock . RY AMANO a whan tes ines wick tina's Harty while pate 38 Ever eens, Transplanting of a (ed Mitte es UCN EMRY ste hh (AIP aR har ania 48 Fertilizing transplanted stock AANA ate aur hans caeth a yt. s Cam hain a eee 40 Heeling-in stock to be trans- planted . , rH: ISR ate Bede pile ATS. eRe oy 36 Tie, Transplanting BEL Ife: ARAL AL Pik Sa rate Rte Ne ne 90 Nursery-grown trees Trans- planting of . MM eye na RRL a) Maha du stiell eae dt eins 46 Nursery stock, Transplanting el ene eae ay alike Cia aon fy ayt Wer Tw 33 Peonies, Transplanting of . eto (Mes av Ne aie eT en loe ha boy kare 90 Perennials Requiring trans- cane SL Ene Fe Oe aks 3 233 Perennials, ransplanting of 3 Me Alla 47 Planting beds, Preparation of 2M Ws SA a ar uh oe 36 Plants difficult to transplant 40-C ... 290 Rarely transplanted . . 40-C-a.... 290 Recovering slowly. . 40-C-b. . . 5 290 Pruning transplanted stock : Siew ve he ous F 41 Reasons for trans: aplantiie 2 peared a eared eae rele 29 Rhododendrons, Transplant- ingof. . ; Polid, SGUMCEME Ca Teena Rehr or Pade Sig Re recs TY 49 Root paoteetion and pud- dling for transplanting . piel esa Boks. juss. Pedra. Le, Ata es taet te ot Season for transplanting. . STA aP WAL NaC RRC LM iC Are 35, 286 See also graphic chart. Plate TB ats aie tig! ea Ca 14 Shrubs, ee effi- cientl ly Waa aes Lea) Weed NEED Re! Vash ay et uee tL warutire 47 > Spacing o: plants» : é nis PAS Meise) dslHla.dt td. copa Uae. fr tee 29 - Specific seasons for trans- Lope 7 4OvS Pelee Soy at 286 Autumn, List for . 5 40-A ‘ ‘ i 289 Spring, List for. . . . 40-B. vibe ‘ 289 Tamping and watering . . et ihis ae tied Oia nn & ‘ 40 Transplanting small seed- lings . Se Mere Bay Ret Pipa Vda! oe a bel given) Aetdeaty by AO . > N Trees, transplanting of a 3 5 Drainage of holes or pits . A dma dict rd, set ad, ou) Sane, Pelah tarean J 43 Rees transplanted Method of procedure i in” transplanting large trees SERUM INN AL a hee PSN eu Ved coteente 43 Protection after trans- planting . . Ben Saeed CUR OMAR ORCI ADORE cite 44, illus. 40 Pruning trees after trans- planting . SPO Rae cit he Boat ses iit oaias 45 Season to transplant and preparation of holes. . ae aM MeL ra) 1 te seid hie!) niet her tere hereimitvs 42 Vines, Transplanting of . . See aad Pre Melon Vie tlle oheh colt, ABP Vanes 47 Winter protection after trans- Planting 15S iy aed SUM ® (a) Malo!) i wiattal) Me Hos rida) Sete tah ae 41 Trees . Accent and specimens . . 14-A-a PE ata tcl om wraatsy haf Penni 138 , Bookson . ‘ . aI SM ph ta he nat tle br ae aS 345, 346, 347 Columnar or pyramidal — ‘ AASB Se ca the ieteeocd)) Cutan sgt te 134 Congested city districts DEP aah lta fa ee x eh Se nee Le 119 Exposed water-front pat. tI0DS 9) 2h. A 252) SES TEN Balt BENS be bia oe GAT Gere) be! Trees NAME Trees, Fast-growing Cuaeas 30: H-a, 35-B-a, 39, 43-I 29-I, 32-A, 32-E, 32-G-b-2, 32-H-a, 35-B- ys aie 31-B-i, 38-C-a . hit al Mi ienie ite hee BN ge A oS ai aa ya 6s 1 6 = Ct CTU NH fa 31-B-0, 31-H_ | 15, 29:A/ 28-6 oi 31-B-e, BEG ehh DOR eu ifonlat yay hat iihed, Wot waelt tat ete OSES UeU cman a cline thee tte n eat tens 11-B, 12-D, _13-B-c, 19-G-a, 20-B, 20-D-b, 24-B-b, 24-C-b, 42-A-a ._. 11-B,_12-D, _13-B-c, 19-G-a, 20-B, 20-D-b, 24-B-b, 24-C-b, jebiaha ais aa -B-b, 22-B, 27, 28-A, 44-C-b 19-I, 20-C, Eos a ae > 13-A-b, 19-C, 37-A-a, 46-C- eet ee 13-A-b, 19-C, 26-A-c SCNT Kate aed 19-C, 22-B, init ci Biter rm ac ht (et 13-A-b, 20-C_. Qi Met say OW aap 22-C-b-1, 33- Eb. Ba het bho te 43-F-a . 13-A-b, 149-6: '37- A- -a, “46-C-a 13-A-c . a thus ehect ae 13-A-c, 19-C, 26-B-c, 97. 5 13-B-b, 22-B, as an 44-Cb. Ari 2-Cb1 . Ss 24-A-b . ESM See Mabe el ais 8 43-F-a . 13-A-c, 47: 19-C, 20-C, 25-B, 27 aeaa 15- B, Pica -B-b, ata 22-C-bL Ie Bb, 19-B, Aves Ua AMe telat ni Meigs CLT LS te ST a RE DOC 22D Oe vel) ah ihrer) he ute OM ZZ AC De) eis oils a) Viel ple) eh 45-F-d . 43-E-a, 43-F-a, 45-B-a, 45-F-d, 45-H-b, 45-K-b, 46-A-b . 13-A-b, 19-B . 30-B. “ 43-1. 35-A-b, 35-A-c, 35-B-a, 45-A-b . 15-C, 29-B, 29-A, 29-B, 29-C, 29-E-b, rid 29H, 31-B-a, 33-E-b, 45-A-a, Vinca PaGE 134, 135, 147 135 266, 309 301, 321, 327, 328, 331 194, illus. 255 197 196 280 163, 166, 180, 212, 253 173, 182, 314 290 277 208, 222, 228, 330 331 277 140 133, Paes 158, 173, 183, 297, 1 210, 240, 242, 244, 246, 285, 310 210, a oe 242, 244, 246, 206, 6, 281 212, a 285, 330 140, 222 224, 231 140, 204, 209 208 224, 232 208 213 120, 125, 131, 158, 163, 182, 297 120, 125, 131, 158, 163, 182, 297 131, 173, 193, 197, 314 193 159, 164, 337 129, 156, 276, 337 129, 156, 190° 156, 173, 190, 193 129, 164’ 175, 253 06 i 156, 276, 337 130, 156, 191, 193 131, 173, 193, 197, 314 175 181 306 130, 149, 156, 164, 187, 193 125, 139, 145, 151, 175 290, 29 145, 155, 193 193 265, 265, 166, 166, 265, 320 140, 198, 204, 205, 207, 208 210, 222, 253, 319, 336 210 Vinca NAME Vinca, Trailing BO githe Des WANES Ti eee ie. seo) Colas ame Asmual sisi Me Books on . Fast-growing . Flowering . Sash Foliage SoA eA Fruiting . Sit ah ansigg tae Holding leaves in late au- tumn eae ere Protection of . Walls, For brick and masonry Viola (in variety) canadensis . canina . cornula, ed ear herrea | cornuta alba . . «.« « « cornuta hybrida . . . « cornuta lutea cucullata odorata : odorata semperflorens « pedata . 5 TECOWT « os we we Violette carn. Mee sa ne Bird’siPoot) =.. ‘ E ? . s pelle ge “ae ‘ 2 } : Leas ity i erin + ate : a plptg heh SF EDRs hc islablece sie eats 2 x a ePaper bad ta Bd Baap tLe Tghieeieln Telgdatctgerer ste tet, stat sana Series eave A Tee waaerete at Tare esti ise