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CONKEY'S

Stock Book

A Handy Reference Manual
ON FARM ANIMALS

Copyright 1911 : : By The G. E. Conkey Company

Prefatory Note

HORSES, cattle, sheep and swine : If any of these interest yon
then this book will be of interest.

But more than that, the aim has been to make it of positive,
unmistakable value, not only for reading but as a handy book of refer-
ence, covering the chief facts the live stock owner needs to know about
the four farm animals.

It s purpose is to be useful to you. If it is useful to you, then it
is useful to us, reminding you that we are interested in your welfare
and are ready waiting whenever you have need of us.

Command us in any emergency. Just Conkcy, Cleveland, U. S. A. —
that will reach us from any point on the globe, so long as Uncle Sam
is on the job and the stamp sticks fast in the corner.
Yours for our common good,

THE G. E. CONKF.Y COMPANY.

T

Why Livestock?

O be sure it pays to stick to the farm and live stock! Did you
ever see a run down farm where the farmer kept plenty of
live stock?

Did you?

Farming, like any other business, is made up of little things,
countless details. It's the little things that make up the big failure or
big success. Nothing is trivial.

Profit means putting the farm on a business basis, crowding to
the limit for healthy production, spying out the sluggards and getting
rid of them, whether hired help or live stock.

. There are some farmers, who are only "miners" — always robbing
the soil and putting nothing back into it. There is a limit to the avail-
able acres. We have learned to prize the land. Preservation and con-
servation of the soil is the problem of this country today. Crops alone
can never make an ideal business farm. Besides this, there is too much
waste in gleaning, culling, roughage, which vigorous farm animals
could make into marketable flesh or products. Crop farming means
congested labor — not hands enough in busy season, in winter too many
hands waiting idle.

A business is not economically operated unless it distributes labor
over the entire year. For instance, a six months' occupation might be
considered profitable when estimated for that short period, while at
the same time the income from it spread out over the whole twelve
months might show an actual loss. Live stock equalize labor, distribute
it through the whole year and justify the owner in making his contracts
on a yearly basis. Help that is coming and going is not efficient or
economical in farm management, any more than it is in an office or
mercantile business.

Statistics show that in sections devoted to the raising of live stock
and crops, the total wealth of farms is higher than the wealth of similar
farms in sections of equal resourcefulness and equal area but devoted

273491

to the raising of crops alone, Exceptions to this rule might occur in
special tracts of virgin soil, or land on lake or river banks. But the
general argument is not affected by such special exceptions.

"No grass, no cattle, no cattle, no manure, no manure, no crop,'
says an old Flemish proverb. "Farming in a circle" is the only pro-
ductive method.

Regular and systematic fertilization of the soil is a prime necessity
in farm management ; and the economy of securing this necessary fer-
tilizer right on the farm, instead of shipping and hauling from outside,
is plain to any man. Moreover, material losses in grain and waste can
be overcome where the farmer has plenty of live stock. Grain lost in
the field during harvesting can all be saved and made into good pork
and bacon simply by turning in the swine. Straw left in the fields
after harvesting is of considerable worth as bulk food for cattle. While
this stubble is burned on the ground in the large western tracts, such a
practice would not be considered for a moment by the thrifty farmer
and stockman on the average sized farm. Fields in which crops have
been raised, neglected corners and road-sides, all can be easily cleaned
of weeds simply by turning in the sheep, which always give a good
account of themselves with food of this nature at their disposal.

The secret of success is thrift, in all its phases — and principally
thrift in management.

Get back to the original statement — did you ever see a run-down
farm where the owner kept plenty of live stock?

Everyone respects the owner of nifty, thrifty live stock. Horses,
cattle, sheep and swine — each animal fits into its proper place. Live
stock raising is the soil's salvation and swings the balance for profitable
farm management.

Conkey's Stock Book

PROFIT means pushing to the limit of healthy production. There
is no room for easy going methods on the farm of today. Beef type,
dairy type, fleece or mutton, every farm animal must come up to the
standard for quality selected, and must pay good returns on the
money invested. Who wants star boarders?

Start right. Good care and feeding insure good qualities if the stock
itself has them. This general subject of selection is the foundation of
success or failure. Know what you want: pick your type: stick to it, and
give it your unremitting care. No matter how good the ration and how
well fitted to a special production, you will defeat the whole purpose of
your feeding if you fail in the first place to select good animals of the
type desired. You cannot get milk by feeding a beef animal, so you
select in the first place the characteristics wanted, and then feed for the
development of these characteristics alone. Nothing will correct mistakes
in selection. Start right; then feed a plenty; but don't keep pitching down
feed for a lot of greedy animals that make you no return.

Cut loose from Nature and her losing game — join hands with money-
making science and then see how farming pays. Nature wants five years
to make a 1000 Ib. steer — but you can get that weight in one year.
Nature wants just twice the time the modern hog raiser needs to make
a 200 Ib. hog. Nature made her plans for milk enough for a cow's calf,
and she was satisfied with a milk flow during good pasture season — but
are you so easily satisfied?

There is one mighty good thing you can learn from Dame Nature.
You can learn how she operates her law for the survival of the most fit.
Just follow that law boldly and follow it closely. You have a lot to do
in your time and a shorter life than old Nature so make every bit of it
count. Be particular, a good deal more particular than Nature. Weed out
the "bad doers." Don't waste valuable time on a poor individual, for
such weaklings will surely be developed at the expense of your other stock.

FITTING Start first with conditions. Consider your surroundings

CONDITIONS and how they are suited to a given breed. It is right to
plan for conditions as you hope them to be, but start
with due consideration for things as they actually are. Certain breeds will
not thrive, or produce their maximum results, no matter how good the
care, if placed in surroundings at total variance with those under which
they have been developed for generations past. We must take into account
such inborn characteristics, the natural fitness to the conditions that we
find. Thus, consider your facilities for raising the food-stuffs best adapted
to the chosen breed, consider the lay of the land, its drainage and soil
conditions on account of rain supply, and the nature of the climate with
which you have to deal.

BREEDS Practically all breeds are good — that is good for something.

No breed is fool proof. Know what you want. For beef

production select carefully the animals intended for further development.

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

Different breeds vary in form. Select the individual specimens which
show the greatest promise of the breed characteristics. Make it always an
individual test. Then by corresponding feed and treatment develop always
for that form. The individual specimens should be selected as specimens,
and must be hardy, of a quiet disposition, not nervous and in general well
adapted to the climate and range conditions of your farm.

In the same way, for milk production, care must be exercised to select
the best possible individuals for the dairy herd. Here again make it a
test of the individual and see to it that as individual specimens they have
those necessary qualities of gentleness, strong nerve power, large capacity
for storage of food stuffs and ability to utilize it for the production
desired. Look for the large development of the milk bag, a long wide
udder extending well forward and well up behind.

PREPOTENCY With any type, the capacity for correct transmission of
characteristics to offspring, is another consideration.
There are many breeds of cattle, horses, sheep and swine which are
strongly prepotent and can be relied upon for constitutional vigor in trans-
mitting their characteristics to the line.

BREEDING With horses, in-breeding is resorted to for the purpose of
fixing permanently qualities of development toward a breed
characteristic for which the breeder has been striving. Cross-breeding, on
the other hand, is resorted to for the purpose of uniting in the foal char-
acteristics of both sire and dam. With cattle, sheep and swine, in grading-up
common stock, the choice of a male should be made with the view of
producing in the offspring and establishing in the line the desirable
qualities of the male. Moreover, there are certain laws governing breed
characteristics. Prepotency, however strong, cannot always bring quick
results.

Common undersized beef stock can be graded up to a larger and
better standard of beef type than the same stock could be developed for
milk production. It takes generations and the most intelligent selection
before results of the highest dairy standard can be obtained. Just so
"with sheep: The Merino breed is known the world over for its fine qual-
ity of wool and stands at the head in that characteristic. But it is small,
and for the production of mutton alone would represent an unprofitable
breed. Now it might take four or five sheep generations to produce a
good mutton form by crossing Merino dams with rams from one of the
noted mutton breeds. But it would take from twenty to thirty generations
to produce a breed of the fine wool qualities of the Merino from any of
the mutton types.

Similarly in feeding: Some stock owners suppose that by feeding
food stuffs high in carbohydrates (fat) a greater percentage of butter
fat will be produced in the milk. But the percentage of butter in the
milk of an individual cow or herd depends on inborn qualities in that cow
or breed. Such a system of feeding would tend to increase the milk
supply, and with it of course the total amount of butter fat. But it would
not, could not, alter the strain characteristics to the extent of raising the
standard of percentage of butter fat of the herd or cow. You can't feed
it in, — you must breed it in. We should realize our limitations: know what
to expect.

Breeding is hardly an exact science. But it works pretty close to
mathematical rule. If there is any one thing positively settled by scien-
tific farming it is this — that it's only common sense and everyday thrift

CARE OF LIVESTOCK

to breed only the best you've got, and always to use good blood for sires.
Uo not select for pedigree alone, or even individual performance. Put
your real money in a proved sire: let his sons and daughters be the test
of quality. You could experiment twenty years in breeding, and learn
nothing more important than this statement you have just read.

Figure for yourself what you can do in a half dozen generations
with strict attention to selecting pure bred sires in your herd.

GENERATION

SIRE

DAM

OFFSPRING

Per cent

Per cent

Per cent

Per cent

Pure Blood

Pure Blood

Improved Blood

Unimproved Blood

1st

100

0

50

50

2nd

100

50

75

25

3rd

100

75

87.5

12.5

4th

100

87.50

93.75

6.25

5th

100

93.75

96.87

3.12

6th

100

96.87

98.84

1.56

This table has equal application in the breeding of all classes of live
stock.

You can see that it really does pay, as nothing else on the farm can pay,
to put money into the right kind of a sire.

CARE OF LIVESTOCK

BREEDING, Care and Feeding — these three topics make up the whole
science of managing livestock to make it pay.
There can be no thrift in management without equal attention
to all three.

You start right when you make a proper type selection, and you keep
right when you follow scientific care, and feed according to feeding laws.

Man can combat nature — that is, he can counteract bad conditions
by proper care, and get a surprising amount of good even out of bad
material. But the thrifty farmer must keep a sharp eye out on thriftless
Nature, for she is a wasteful, extravagant dame. The truth is that Nature
cares only to preserve herself by perpetuating the most fit. The unfit she
gets rid of the easiest way.

It is a curious fact that in a state of nature, if animals breed to the
extent of overcrowding, Nature frets herself until she starts some disease,
which gets rid of the weakest animals and leaves more room for the best.
Disease-producing germs were intended by Nature for just this culling out
of the weakest — plants, brutes or men — for a healthier survival of those
most fit.

AGAINST NATURE Domestication with the consequent crowding into
stables, pens or other buildings, is against natural

law. Nature will fight against it; but the thrifty stockman knows how to
fight against Nature's laws.

Wild horses and cattle roaming the plains were not crowded in their
range, and the most abundant air, food and vigorous exercise aided to keep
up the standard of health. But even then, they were thinned by natural
enemies and disease, when demanded for balance by Nature's law.

8 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

In domesticating living creatures, animals or fowls, even in the hous-
ing and crowding of man himself, we know we are going against Nature's
law. Consumption, the great white plague, may be the greatest but it
isn't the only "house disease," as your doctor will tell you any day.

Wherever living creatures congregate will be found disease germs, to
say nothing of parasites lurking and waiting for victims. Perfect health
in any 'organism has, by that same Nature's law, the power of resistance,
even to very serious disease conditions. There is a healing process in
the healthy cells of living tissue. It fights disease germs, destroys them,
throws them off. But let the same living creature become weakened from
any cause and it loses this resistance; disease germs attack it like ravenous
wolves and if the right sort of help does not come in time the life of that
organism is destroyed.

Just as civilized man must live in houses, so livestock must, to be

profitable, put up with conditions against Nature's law. But, warned of

the danger, the up-to-date stockman can keep a sharp lookout, and be
armed for the fight against Nature's law.

KEEP CLEAN In this whole problem of close quarters and profit in

livestock, the chief question is Sanitation; the next most

important is Sanitation; and SANITATION is the most important of all.

Keep everything clean. Disinfect regularly if you expect to keep down
disease germs. Many of the diseases of animals are of germ origin; to
fight these germs is a first essential, and is just as necessary as to feed
and water the stock. An ounce of prevention is still worth a pound of
cure. Nearly all diseases of stock may be traced to poor feeding, unsani-
tary quarters and insufficient care. Cleanliness, absolute cleanliness, is as
important as any other consideration. Disease germs thrive in filth and
dirt and all conditions that favor mould or fungus growth.

Let us thoroughly understand what is meant by filth, for a little of it
means a lot. On the foot of a common house fly, six hundred thousand
typhoid germs have been found, and six million on the whole of its little
body. When we think of such facts we will cease to think of heaped-up
manure piles as the only source of germ contagion, We begin to under-
etand that any taint can harbor germs.

DISINFECTING Disinfection is a necessity. A good, economical liquid
disinfectant should be kept on hand and used regu-
larly. Any disinfectant used must be good enough to kill a germ by odor
as well as contact; and while thoroughly effective as a germ killer, at the
same time it must not be injurious to livestock either in odor or contact.
It must be non-explosive, non-corrosive, non-poisonous, — that is safe —
and of an agreeable nature, so that it can be used conveniently, and what
is more, will be used, — not only in barn and stable but in sick room
(systematically for prevention and always when occasion needs). To
meet all practical purposes the disinfectant used must be an antiseptic,
germicide, parasiticide and insecticide all in one. Let us take a moment
to go over these four points, which are the four cardinal points in helping
Nature to combat unnatural conditions on the stock farm:

WHAT IS AN An antiseptic is a healing remedy in this sense; that
ANTISEPTIC? while it has no healing property in itself, — as the heal-
ing process is in the living cells of the tissues only, —
it prevents the germs and bacteria from hindering nature in its healing
process. It keeps the tissues germ-free and healthy. Nature with these

CARE OF LIVESTOCK

does its own wonderful work in closing a wound and knitting up the
flesh. A true antiseptic destroys the enemies to healing, and the wound
then will heal of itself. If it were not for bacteria no wound would be
fatal unless a vital organ were crippled. Abscesses, wounds, and sores
give the very best conditions for the growth of germs and, without any
antiseptic, they swarm with them. It is the tendency of every open sore to
form pus.

WHAT IS A There are some germicides that would be dangerous to
GERMICIDE? use as antiseptics. Germicides work in two ways — by
odor and by contact. A good germicide that is effective
by both odor and contact, will, if systematically used, prevent the growth
of disease germs under conditions where they would naturally thrive and
multiply to the danger point. Germicides keep down dangerous gases
and make the atmosphere clean. They don't take the place of shovel
and hoe or an extra hired man, and will not clean out filth; but they will
make the atmosphere wholesome and free from the germs which cause
disease.

WHAT IS A If your antiseptic and germicide has that property

PARASITICIDE? which makes it a parasiticide it is a truly valuable

product. By parasiticide we mean ability to destroy,

not only the lice and vermin which infest the animal upon the surface of
the skin, but the parasites which burrow under the surface and cause skin
disease like mange, itch, etc. To be a true parasiticide the preparation
you select must do all this, but it must stop with the parasite and not hurt
the animal in the least or injure the skin, hair or wool.

WHAT IS AN Now comes the full test of a general, all-around article:
INSECTICIDE? It must kill insects, — anything from a bed-bug, cock-
roach, or flea, to the potato-bug or the little aphis that
injures the rose bushes; and ants and all creeping and crawling things.
Thus it is an insecticide. Such an article is Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and
Disinfectant, an article that can be depended on at all times for countless
purposes, the best all-around dip and disinfectant, parasiticide and insecti-
cide for the farmer and the stock owner of today.

CLEAN HEALTHY In stable sanitation great strides have been made

STABLES in the last few years. Even legislation has taken

a hand in many states, enforcing inspection to meet

the demand for clean healthy stables and sanitary dairy conditions. Especi-
ally is this true where dairy and beef cattle are kept. On first thought
such laws might be felt to work a hardship upon the owners of stock.
But as a matter of fact they are a benefit to everyone; and especially
to owners, who actually reap an increased profit from living up to the
requirements of the law.

Stagnant water, or water accumulated in holes without an outlet
should be avoided. Here again it is worth while to repeat the caution to
keep all the yards clean. Remove all manure and accumulated rub-
bish. Drain the wet places and fill them in. Stir up the earth so that
the sun can get to it and purify it. Sprinkle once a month with a good
disinfectant, like Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, which is a
general purpose article. Disinfect thoroughly. Whitewash all sheds for
sheep or swine, and make everything sweet and clean. See index for
receipt for United States government whitewash.

10

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

FLOORS If the floors are rotting with manure take up the planks and
thoroughly remove the accumulation beneath. Take out an
inch or two of earth as well; put in a layer of concrete composed of one
part Portland cement and three parts clean sand. After this sets, disinfect
thoroughly with Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant and finally
put back the planks, after having treated them on all surfaces with
Nox-i-cide. You will find this method of construction a great improve-
ment. Not only will it outlast the old, but it will be an easier matter to
keep the stable clean, besides giving you opportunity to disinfect under-
neath. Do not allow manure to remain in the stable any length of time.
It is injurious to your animals' feet. It ruins the air the animals breathe.
Its fumes rise to the loft and spoil the feed. Its decomposition causes
the wooden floor to decay.

If board floors are kicked out by stamping horses take better precau-
tions against flies annoying stock. Use Conkey's Fly Knocker during the
troublesome season and cut down this lumber expense.

BUILD RIGHT Rough seasons have their hardships for stock in close

quarters. With plenty of room for the stock to be

housed, and proper conveniences for those who take care of them, every

stable should be warm, light, well-ventilated. This means in the first place

Round Barn— A type now much in favor

proper construction; stables should be roomy, with plenty of windows and
these arranged so that the light comes from behind the animals instead
of directly in their faces. Floors on which animals stand should be
pitched just enough to carry off the water. Stalls should slope to the
gutter 2 inches in 5 feet. The gutter should fall 1 inch in 20 feet. There
should be means for ventilation without draft, but sufficient to carry off alt
bad odors. The well-known King system is the best. Round barns are
now much in favor as they give greatest capacity for the area covered,

CARE OF LIVESTOCK 11

and of course take less building material. They are easily lighted, easily
ventilated and are very convenient for doing the work.

It is true that the needs of animals vary with their kind and condition.
Species vary as to constitution. Swine need more protection than any
other animal, as the hog's coat is very thin; dairy cows come next; beef,
horses and sheep follow in the order given. Warm and comfortable quar-
ters are absolutely necessary to swine if they are to be kept thrifty and
growing all through the months of winter. An open shed is the best
shelter for sheep, which need plenty of fresh air. An old stable too cold for
horses can often be remodeled for sheep, care being taken that it is not
made too compact and air tight. The main points with sheep are to keep
them dry and out of the wind.

Animals show greater production and gain from the food consumed if
they are given proper shelter and care. Also note that while exercise in
winter makes better assimilation of the feed, a greater amount of food is
needed to maintain body heat when the stock is unduly exposed to the
cold, so that there is an increase in cost of production with no correspond-
ing gain. Age and health must always be reckoned in considering tem-
perature. Young animals need safer shelter than animals that have fully
matured, this fact being true of all species, — foals, calves, pigs and lambs.

FRESH AIR One of the chief essentials is ventilation. We know from
physiology that the waste matter in the blood is carried
through the vein canals to the lungs and there subjected to the process
of oxygenation. Oxygenation as you know is really washing in air. You
wash a thing to get it clean. You can't wash a handkerchief clean in
dirty water. Thus, blood cannot be "washed clean" if the air in the lungs
is not pure, that is, does not contain the necessary amount of oxygen.
Animals must have pure fresh air to breathe. Now consider: A horse
requires twenty times as much oxygen as a man. Five horses then, shut
up in a stable, would have the same effect on the atmosphere there as
one hundred men confined in the same space. Have you air enough in your
stable for five horses? Would you like to be shut up in there with ninety-
nine other men?

Ventilation should be in proportion to "the number of animals. Cows
should have 500 cubic feet per head. Look to it that your stock have
plenty of fresh air in barn or stable. Animals are sometimes confined for
long periods, such as cattle during the winter or other inclement weather.
In- respect for Nature's law, in protection of your investment, you must —
side by side with sanitation — look to ventilation in your stable manage-
ment. Have you windows enough? If necessary, saw holes in your barn
and cover them with muslin. Watch drafts, but let in plenty of fresh air.

TO THE DUMP! If your stable has a strong smell take the necessary
steps to get rid of the odor. Clean up thoroughly.

Disinfect. (See index for Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant.)
Send old broken brooms, mouldy shoes, old coats and hats, old straps,
collars and whatnot to the dump. They collect dust, favor fungus growth
and are a breeding place for germs. Wash the windows free from cobwebs
and dust. Why keep out the sunlight? Science claims the actinic ray in
sunlight is one of the most powerful disinfectants and germicides. Apply
a coat or two of government whitewash (see index for receipt) to

12 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

ceilings and walls. It will make the stable more cheerful, intensify the

light, and be more sanitary in many ways.

HOW TO When you disinfect, see that you disinfect. Here's how we
DISINFECT do it: Remove first all dried accumulations about the
mangers, floors and drains. Then sprinkle disinfectant.
Don't wash before sprinkling disinfectant for the water will carry the
germs into the cracks. Disinfect first. Use a good article, and a cheap
good one, because you must be willing to put on enough. Many places
must be thoroughly saturated in order to get in contact with all the
germs. Get into every crack and crevice, go wherever dust goes. Go
after the floors and the lower walls with a scrub brush or broom, and
use a spray pump on higher places. After disinfecting whitewash (every
three months or six months anyway). Germs of many diseases can keep
alive for months.

PULSE To test an animal's normal condition
try the pulse. This will show the heart
action, which in turn will show the state of the
general nervous system. To take the pulse of the
cow, stand at the left side of the head and reach
over to the left jaw. To take the pulse of the
horse feel under the lower jaw where the sub-
maxillary artery winds under it. If you stand at
the left of the head of the animal and run the
fingers along the lower jaw-bone the artery may
be felt at the front edge of the large muscle at
the side of the jaw. In dog or sheep the pulse is
taken from the femoral artery on the inside of the hind leg.

Note that in health the pulse is full, round and even. It varies in
different animals:

Horse 30 to 40 beats per minute

Cow 35 to 42 beats per minute

Sheep 70 to 80 beats per minute

Dog , 70 to 90 beats per minute

In young animals the pulse is always greater. Also it is greater of
course under action or excitement. The pulse varies in quality, — is hard
where the artery is full and stands out under pressure; quick, where the
beat comes spasmodically, though the number of beats per minute may be
no greater; slow, where the beats come up fully; soft, where the artery is
not full and hard; irregular when uneven beats; intermittent, where some
beats are entirely dropped.

Pulse is an indicator of health condition, but only experience can teach
the meaning of different degrees in force and fulness, as well as differences
in frequency of beats. A veterinarian grows accustomed to these differ-
ences, and can tell at once the probable nature of the ailment. Generally
speaking, in a sick animal a quick pulse indicates fever; a slow, weak pulse,
debility; a hard, jumping pulse, inflammation. In disease of the heart the
pulse is irregular, or intermittent. A slow, full pulse may indicate brain
disease.

TEMPERATURE Temperature tests are important, and it is surprising
how few stock owners keep on hand a self-registering

clinical thermometer, as its use is one of the best and easiest means of
diaenosine trouble. The thermometer should be shaken down before using

CARE OP LIVESTOCK 13

and should be left in the body of the animal for three minutes at least;
It is most conveniently inserted in the anus or vulva and should be held
in place about three minutes. Here is a table for normal temperature

Horse 99.5°-101° F.

Cattle 100° -103° F.

Sheep 101° —105.8° F.

Dogs . 99.5°— 103° F.

Swine 100.9°— 105.4° F.

A rise in temperature indicates fever, i. e. inflammation. A rise of
six degrees is dangerous and in any disease a rise of four degrees is serious.
On the other hand a sudden fall below normal is serious, showing loss of
the animal vitality, and if not quickly corrected, may result in death.
Always sterilize the thermometer, dipping it in Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and
Disinfectant solution, before using it on the next animal.

OTHER TESTS Breathing is another test of an animal's condition. A
horse breathes irom twelve to fifteen times a minute

when in health; a cow from ten to twenty-five times; a dog about twenty
times. Rapid breathing may be caused by exercise, heat or some excite-
ment. Also, breathing is faster after eating when the lungs are crowded by
the digestive organs. But these are all healthy conditions.

Short, rapid or labored breathing shows disease of the lungs. Snoring
shows some stoppage of the air passages of the head; or snoring may
come from brain disease, and is often noticeable when death approaches.
In horses, a peculiar double contraction and expansion of the abdomen
shows heaves. Coughing shows obstruction or irritation in throat or lungs,
and may be of two kinds, moist or dry. The latter, the "dry, hacking
cough," shows some irritation of throat or lungs, while the moist cough
is accompanied by mucous, which shows an unnatural secretion and accumu-
lation of fluids in the air passages.

Mucous is a secretion of the mucous membrane, the peculiar body
"lining" which covers all openings of the body, lining the entire alimentary
canal and all organs where air may enter. Inspection of these mucous sur-
faces aids in determining the animal's condition. If red, there is congestion
of blood from some irritation; if pale, weakness from impoverishment of the
blood; if blue or gray in color it shows the blood supply lacks oxygen; if
yellow trouble with the animal's liver.

Excretions come next. The natural rejectment of the body is in solid
feces or dung, and liquids and vapors, especially the urine and perspira-
tion. As with all animal life, the appearance of these is an indication
of the working of the animal's body and the owner should know the
general indications. For instance: in horse dung a coating of mucous
shows intestinal catarrh; bloodiness, inflammation; paleness and foul odor,
a torpid liver; in fever the urine is scant and highly colored. When a
horse has azoturia (excess of nitrogenous matter) the urine will turn to
a light brown and later to a dark brown color. In Texas fever or south-
ern cattle fever the urine is red.

Often you can tell a sick animal from its position and action of
body. An animal always tries to place itself in a position that will
relieve any pain or distress of body. Note this carefully as it will help
in diagnosing the trouble. Disturb the sick animal as little as possible and
of course make all approach to it quietly. If the hair stands up
the animal is suffering from chill, or may be hidebound. The skin,
if harsh and hidebound, shows poor nutrition, though the trouble may

14 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

be with the food or with the animal's own digestive system. Watch
the appetite. Look out for any signs of pain, unusual nervousness, depres-
sion, for all these help to show what is the trouble.

As in human ailments, the nursing and care of the sick animal is of
as much importance as the actual medicine. Little attention is paid to
it usually, simply because so few know what and how to do. The medicine
is right to be sure. But care and attention must go with it. Naturally,
the best caretaker for a sick animal is the one most familiar with it; for
beside being more soothing to the sick animal, he can best note symptoms
or changes that in many cases would be entirely overlooked by a stranger.

The logical treatment with any disease is: Find the cause and then the
cure. The cause once found, remove it and so prevent a second attack.
Even when colic in horses or bloating in cattle require the most prompt
attention, look for the cause just the same. The cause once discovered,
the big difficulty in curing will be removed.

SICK ANIMALS Sick animals should be separated at once from the
others. When possible, if the trouble is serious, take

the well animals to new clean quarters where there is no chance of infec-
tion. This is not always possible in crowded stables, so the use of a
good disinfectant such as Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant is
necessary to make the old quarters pure and sanitary again. The attendant
should also use Nox-i-cide to avoid any possible infection himself, or danger
of spreading the trouble to the rest of the stock.

A comfortable box stall is the proper accommodation for a sick
animal, or one giving birth to young. It is surprising so few box stalls
are provided. A box stall should be placed so that it will be dry and
well ventilated, as well as warm in winter and cool in summer and should
be kept at a temperature of 60-65° F. as nearly as possible. It should not
be less than 10 x 12 feet in size. It should be strongly made and smoothly
ceiled on the inside walls and overhead, to admit of ready disinfection.
It should have a good plank floor, as dirt or paved floors are liable to
be cold and damp. There should be two doors, one opening into the
barn and another into a level yard, and they should not be opposite one
another to cause draft. The doors should be made with upper and lower
halves, and should close and should be wide enough to carry an animal
in or out when not able to walk. There should also be a barred window
that can be opened, closed or darkened as desired. In one corner should
be a movable feed box. Strong rings should be provided for tying and
holding the head up for drenching. Strong hooks in the ceiling will
also be found useful if it is ever necessary to use a sling.

In caring for sick animals, the quarters should be kept absolutely
clean. Nox-i-cide in the wash water (1 to 100 parts water) will be
effective. Occasionally spraying the walls, floors and ceiling with a strong
solution will be necessary. This will kill all germs and also kill bad
odors from disease, medicines, etc.

FOOD FOR The food for sick animals is as important as the

AILING ANIMALS medicine. Keep up the strength for resistance to
disease by careful feeding and tempt the appe-
tite. Easily digested, nutritious, but not bulky foods, should be given.
Laxative foods should also be given when required. Good foods for
sick animals are not always the same for all species, but they may be
suggested as follows: Freshly cut grass, chopped carrots, chopped apples,

CARE OF LIVESTOCK

15

gruels, milk or bran mashes, made by stirring bran into boiling water.
These may sometimes be mixed with beaten raw eggs, or other simple
strengtheners that would not be taken alone. Raw, boiled and crushed
oats, and bran, can be made up in various ways to tempt the appetite, and
a little salt dashed with Conkey's Stock Tonic added will often make
food acceptable where it would otherwise be refused. Keep the feed boxes,
pails and utensils in an absolutely clean condition. Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip
and Disinfectant in 1 to 100 solution makes a disinfectant wash water.

BRAN MASH Bran mash is excellent for all live stock, as it is easily
digested and acts as a gentle laxative. To make a bran
mash, first scald out the pail, fill about two-thirds full of bran, add salt,
and pour on boiling water sufficient to make a thick mass. Never make
bran mash too thin. Stir well and cover tight to hold the steam. Let
stand about twenty minutes, or until cool enough for the animal to eat it.
It should be given warm for its full beneficial effect. Bran mash is well
liked by all animals and makes an excellent means of giving medicines.

DRENCHING
A HORSE

This is a simple operation provided the horse's throat
is not sore. If sore, this or any irritation will make him
cough and likely cause strangling. Pinch the throat first,
and if the animal coughs do not attempt to drench it but give an electuary,
that is a mixture of medicine and molasses or honey, which can be
smeared on the back part of the tongue with a wooden paddle or long
handled spoon. It will dissolve slowly and be swallowed with the saliva.

But to drench a horse proceed as
follows: Make a small loop at one
end of a piece of rope, slip it over
the upper jaw behind the front
teeth, then pass the other end of
the rope over a beam or through
rings installed for the purpose, and
gently draw up the head to a con-
venient level for operating. Do not
draw the head too high or the
horse then cannot swallow — any
more than you can when your head
is thrown back. Use a taper
necked bottle or a drenching horn,
inserting it at the corner of the
mouth in front of the molars and
pouring the medicine slowly into
the cheek. Take time and pour
slowly, giving the horse a chance to
swallow. Horses sometimes refuse
to swallow, in which case tickle the
roof of the mouth with the neck of
the bottle. Do not pull the tongue
or knead or pinch the throat, al-
though light stroking is not harm-
ful. If the horse coughs let down
the head at once, lest any fluid get

down the windpipe and bring on pneumonia, which often proves fatal
Never drench through the nose for this is not only cruel but dangerous; and
many deaths follow the barbarous practice. A drop or two of medicine can
be flicked on the nostrils, however, and will usually make a horse swallow
whether he wants to or not.

Getting ready to drench a horse

16 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

DRENCHING This is often the simplest method of drenching,

WITH A SYRINGE especially for small doses. A drench should sel-
dom exceed a pint, and usually it can be given in

8 fluid ounces. Use an ordinary hard rubber syringe and empty the
syringe far back in the mouth. Repeat as often as necessary for the dose
required.

DRENCHING It is perfectly safe to drench cattle, provided the liquid
CATTLE is poured cautiously, with plenty of time allowed for

swallowing. Cattle are more easily drenched than
horses for the simple reason that they cannot refuse to swallow, as
horses often do — hence there is not so much danger of liquid getting into
the windpipe or lungs. Raise the head by placing thumb and forefinger in
the nostrils, lifting the head high enough so that the medicine will not run
out of the mouth. Let an assistant hold the head steady by the horns
or the ears. A taper neck bottle is all right for the purpose, or use a
regular drenching horn.

DRENCHING The best way to give medicine to swine is in the feed.
SWINE If a sick hog won't eat you can give a drench, if first you

tie up the animal, with a slip noose over the upper jaw.
Don't try to drench while he is squealing, for you may strangle him. Look
out that he don't crunch the bottle and so cut his mouth.

DRENCHING A sheep cannot be drenched very well when it is stand-
SHEEP ing up, as some of the liquid is almost sure to get into

the lungs. Back the sheep into a corner on its rump;
then straddle the animal so that you can steady its head between your
knees while you partly open the mouth and pour the medicine slowly into
the right corner of the mouth. Thus there is no danger of choking.

GIVING A Medicine is often worked up with lard, honey or

MEDICINE BALL molasses into a cylindrical, mass less than 1 inch in

diameter. It is then called a "bolus" or ball. It

should never weigh more than 1 ounce or be more than 3 inches long.
It should always be freshly prepared, never hard and dry. It takes a
quiet manner and quick action to give a ball. To give a ball, stand in front
of the horse, with the ball in three fingers of the right hand, then grasp
the tongue irith the left hand, pull it well forward with the tip upward;
then insert the right hand, push the ball or pill well over the bulge of the
tongue to the back of the root of the tongue and quickly withdraw the
hands. Hold the head in a natural position with the mouth closed and
watch the neck until you see the ball pass down the gullet. Then offer
the animal a drink of water. Of course, do not give a ball if the horse's
throat is sore, as he may cough it up in the nasal cavity, whence it may
be hard to dislodge.

POULTICES In cases where heat and moisture are required, as in case
of a sprain, bruise, inflammation or congestion or inflam-
mation of any sort, the best way of obtaining these is by means of a
poultice. In this way a considerable surface can be covered and the
heat or medication can be applied for a considerable period of time.
Bran, flaxseed, boiled carrots, etc., make good material for poultices. The
purpose of a poultice is to reduce swelling,, assist in absorption and allay
pain. To do this it must be applied hot and be kept hot as a large part
of its value is in the heat thus applied. In cases where there is a dis-

CARE OF LIVESTOCK

17

charge of pus the old bandage and, poultice material should be burned
so as to prevent infection. A poultice should be changed, or freshened
with hot water, at intervals of tw6"br three hours. Mixing a poultice
with Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant solution instead of water, pre-
vents'^souring and also makes the poultice an antiseptic dressing. The
best poultice for ordinary veterinary use is bran mixed to a paste with
Conkey's Hoof Remedy according to simple directions.

Po tfe rn J

"Pooltiet Boot-/

Pads and Poultices as adjusted— Pattern for a "Many-Tail" Bandage

In poulticing the foot it is usually most convenient to use a poultice
boot, as shown in the cut. This is simply a bag of stout sack cloth or
other strong cloth, coming up high enough to tie above the fetlock. It
can be filled with the poultice material and applied very conveniently.
For throat, leg and various parts of the body the most useful bandage is
what is called the many-tail pattern, which is simply a strip of cloth
slashed into ends convenient for tieing.

FOMENTATIONS These are local applications of hot water from
twenty minutes to a half hour at a time. The hot

water is applied as hot as can be comfortably borne, and the temperature
kept up by adding hot water as it cools. Apply with sponges, cloths, or
with the hands, and keep up a gentle rubbing while applying. Two or
three times a day is the usual rule. Fomentations are generally used to
relieve acute pain and swelling from rheumatism, injuries, and other irrita-
tion. Cold water is excellent to relieve inflammation and congestion. It
can be applied with wet cloths or the part can be irrigated by letting cold
water drip upon it.

HEALING These may be antiseptic cleansing lotions, such as Nox-i-cide
AGENTS solution; or soothing applications, such as Conkey's Pain
Lotion; or salves or ointments, such as Conkey's Healing
Salve; or astringent dry dressings, such as Conkey's Healing Powder. The
important thing in every case is to secure asepsis, that is, kill the germs
of infection, so that the cell-tissue can repair itself without interference.
If there is much pain in the part to be dressed, Conkev's Pain Lotion

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

should be selected as the healing agent, because of its soothing properties.
Pain Lotion also softens the parts, as does Conkey's Healing Salve. Salves
should be used purely for surface treatment, never in deep cuts or sores,
f a part is exposed to irritation always use the dry dressing, Conkey's
Healing Powder, which is perfectly antiseptic. Many surgeons favor dry
healing entirely.

SHOO FLIES! Horses and cattle should be protected from trouble-
some flies, not only from the standpoint of humanity
but because it is unthrifty abuse of stock to let cattle devote good energy
to swishing flies instead of grazing and producing milk, or gains in beef.
Similarly horses lose flesh and spoil in spirit when exposed to the torment
of flies. It is a waste of flesh, animal vigor and good feed. It is impossible
to over-estimate the torment to cattle in warm weather from pestiferous
flies; and the loss to owners, both in quality and amount of production.

Conkey's Fly Knocker abates the nuisance and keeps the flies from
annoying stock. It is a positive boon to dairymen throughout the coun-
try. It keeps the dreadful buffalo fly, or gnat, of southern sections from
accomplishing its purpose and cattlemen in these sections save thousands
of dollars annually, simply by spraying with Fly Knocker. Wherever used
it prevents lice and grubs on cattle, and bots on horses, from egg deposits
of the gadfly. Besides this, many infectious and dangerous diseases are
communicated by ordinary flies and they spread infection from carion and
refuse of every sort. Prevention is the watchword — use Conkey's Fly
Knocker.

BED RIGHT Often too little attention is given to the quality of bed-
ding used in stables and barns. Animals should be well
bedded with something that will keep them clean and dry and give them
comfort while lying down. It should be free from irritating substances
and absorb moisture readily. Straw, coarse hay, fine shavings or coarse
sawdust all make good bedding. When straw or hay bedding is used see
to it that it is bright and clean, free from mould or fungus growth.
Bedding should be cleaned out each morning. The cleanest may then be
dried and used again, and the balance saved with the manure.

GETTING MOST Part of the production you pay for as owner of live-

VALUE OUT OF stock is manure. One of the tests of management is

MANURE the attention you give to, the use you make of this.

Managing the farm, like managing a factory, calls for

thrifty use of every bi-product. The elements in manure you have
paid for pound by pound in your feed bills. These elements have a sound
commercial value, but rightly used they have even more value on your own
ground. "Livestock raising is the soil's salvation," is the slogan of today.
That fertilization is necessary to successful farming is known to most
farmers, but few realize the importance of handling farm manure so as to
get the full value from it. The manure from one horse or cow for a year
is said to be worth as much as $25.00, but with the usual methods of hand-
ling, it is quite safe to say that by the time the manure reaches the land it
has lost half its original value. To obtain the most plant food value, the
manure should be spread on the ground where it is to be used as soon as
possible. By hauling manure to the fields daily there is practically no loss
from leaching, that is, draining or washing away. It should be spread uni-
formly over the land and not piled in small heaps, which is wasteful in
fertilizing material. A good manure spreader will soon pay for itself and
should be on every farm. They are not only a great saving in labor but bv

CARE OF LIVESTOCK 19

spreading the manure uniformly over the land the most possible good is
obtained. If manure must be stored it should be kept under cover if possible
and on a tight floor, keeping it only wet enough to prevent heating. Where
the manure must be accumulated in heaps it is a good plan to sprinkle a
few pounds of land plaster over it each day to absorb and hold the ammonia
until the soil can get it. Where a phosphate fertilizer is to be applied to
the soil it should be mixed with the manure at the rate of one pound of rock
phosphate or floats per day for each animal. This should be mixed with
the manure as it is taken from the stable. Some caution is necessary against
the use of wood ashes and lime with manure as these materials produce an
alkaline condition, resulting in the loss of ammonia, which carries off the
nitrogen. Lime and ashes if needed for the soil should be applied other
years than when farm manure is used. Soils differ greatly, so do their
requirements; and it is well to have a knowledge of the subject for the
profits of the farm depend largely on intelligent fertilization of the soil.

The following table of manurial values is given in a bulletin issued by
the United States Department of Agriculture:

Droppings from cows $2.02 a ton

Droppings from calves 2.18 a ton

Droppings from horses 2.21 a ton

Droppings from pigs 3.20 a ton

Droppings from sheep 3.30 a ton

Droppings from hens 7.07 a ton

BETTER Feeding from pastures will always be one of the cheapest
PASTURES methods of feeding, as well as offering enormous other
advantages which will readily occur to any farmer. But
the worth of any pasture depends upon the kind of grass of which it is
composed, and the care you give it. Most pasture lots in this country
consist of one kind of grass only, and often it is indifferent in quality.
If permanent pastures, they are frequently grown with one grass, such
as Blue grass in the North, or, in the South, Bermuda; but how much
better is a mixed permanent pasture, where the selected best grasses for
forage are grown in combination, giving variety, and furnishing grazing
at all stages of the growing season. Unquestionably, a permanent pas-
ture of the highest quality and one from which the stock could derive a
maximum of good, would be composed of ^various selected grasses, such
as Kentucky Blue, Russian Brome, Timothy 'and Western Rye.
But more of this when we come to the topic of feeding.

WATERING Side by side with pasturage is the question of watering
STOCK stock. Plenty of drinking water is necessary for health

or full production. The ideal system in mild weather is
watering from brooks flowing through farms, since running water has the
advantage of purifying itself by its constant exposure to the atmosphere.
On the other hand water in wells close to barns, manure piles, or other-
wise affected by surface drainage, is sure to be unclean and sooner or
later will be the source of disease. Look to tire water supply. If the
water is bad the animal suffers.

The water should be at an agreeable temperature. The ice-bound
drinking trough in winter is one great cause of poor production. Thrifty
farmers warm the drinking water always. Troublesome? Yes — but on
general principles it is a good deal cheaper to heat the water on a stove
than in the stomachs of your valuable animals.

20 CONKEV'S STOCK BOOK

YOUR Stable management is entirely too important a matter to

HIRED MAN be left to any but a careful supervisor. If men are hired
for stable work see that they are kind as well as capable.
The hired man has not the self-interest stimulus which usually makes the
owner a good caretaker, but see that, he has self -pride, and a good deal
of natural love for dumb animals, tQ.take its place. When you get hold
of a good man — one painstaking injiis work, faithful to your interests
and the welfare of your stock — treaCjiim the best you know how, for it
will pay, like any other good investm^t, for the more thrifty management
of your farm.

RIGHT FEEDING
I. The Scientific Theory

HUNCH your shoulders and get right down to it. You have here
the biggest one thing in managing live stock for profit. Feed for
profit. Most anyone can feed an animal so it won't starve. There is
neither sense nor money in that. The problem you are working is, how and
what to feed for biggest possible profit in the animal's production with the
least possible cost.

THE WAY Fifty years ago you didn't have to bother — simply went
DAD DID ahead with the feeding and fed the way Dad did. Or, if
Dad was a failure, you copied your most successful neigh-
bor. It was the only way you could do; for what and how much feed to
use was all settled by experience. There was no science about it.

Stock raisers knew, from looking around and comparing different plans
of feeding, just about what they might expect from each in the way of
energy, production and thriving condition. Real knowledge of the subject
was in no man's head; and there was no short-cut through science, which is
what science is good for to us practical farmers.

THE WAY We've a short-cut to all this knowledge, without waste of
WE DO years and labor, waste of live stock and waste of production.

We know that foods vary; that their goodness depends on
certain necessary elements, which we call nutritive elements. We know that
not one of these, but all of them must be included or there is loss of energy,
loss of production, maybe loss of the animal; and that always, if not fed
in the right proportion as to these certain elements, the feed is expensive.

NOW FOR IT! The names of these elements are so important, that

THE ELEMENTS even the children on the farm ought to know them.

We wish all the names were one-syllable; so every

boy and girl, down to the littlest shaver, could repeat them, and grow
right up with a knowledge of their importance. Let us try dividing the
big ones; and maybe that boy or girl of yours will tackle them anyway,
as follows:

Pro-te-in

Car-bo-hy-drates

Fat

Ash or mineral

Called the "nutritive elements"
or "digestible nutrients"; all
necessary to feed an animal.

Now: every single food for dumb animals or human beings must
contain some one or more of these digestible nutrients; and usually any
given food will contain every one of these elements, but in very different

RIGHT FEEDING 21

proportions. For instance, you hear a feeder say of a certain feed that
it is "strong in protein" but lacks mineral; or that it is rich in fat, but
lacking carbohydrates (starch and sugar).

ALL ARE Again: Any food containing one or more of these elements,
NEEDED but not all, must be combined with other food of a kind
to make up the missing element or elements. For in the
sum total of feed all of these elements must be included.

NONE MUST Lastly: To be economical, the feed must be so combined
BE WASTED that the animal gets the different elements in the right
proportion. Starvation in one element means a craving.
The animal tries to meet this by eating more heartily. Bulk of other
elements will not satisfy this aching void; and thus there is a waste of
feed, waste of energy, and loss of production, all from this one lack of some
necessary element.

NATURE Now it's just as well to remind ourselves at the start

WASTEFUL that in the old days when animals were kept under more
natural conditions with plenty of pasture, each could pretty
well select for itself what it needed to keep up the chemical balance of
nutritive elements. Appetite, craving, was Nature's guide; and with rich
pasture the animal could crop here and there until every essential was
provided. Plainly no stockman of this day can afford to turn his animals
loose on rich, virgin pastures; and when not given this wide natural choice
the feeder of the animals must be science-wise to make up the propel
selection for them.

SCIENCE IS Guess we all agree in these few statements, and won't
FRUGAL make any holler about this modern idea of scientific feed-

ing. It isn't a complicated new-fangled notion; but horse
sense, cow sense, sheep sense, hog sense all put into man's brain so he
can use plain common sense and feed his animals (1) according to their
need and (2) what he expects to get out of them (3) with no useless
waste of these elements.

SIMPLER Science has simplified, not complicated things. It has given
TO DO us rules by which we can go straight ahead and get the big-

gest gains without unnecessary waste in the actual food con-
sumption. Another thing, this modern science has proved how necessary
it is to fit each ration to the individual, and not try to establish a standard
for a whole class of animals.

GETTING FOOD It isn't — we know it isn't — the food in its crude

VALUE FROM FEED state that gives nourishment to an animal; but
the soluble, digestible nutrients contained in the
crude material. In other words:

The actual nourishment has to be in solution.

Water must therefore be supplied the animal in sufficient quantity to
put the various digestible nutrients of the food in solution.

WHAT THEY DO The digestible nutrients we carefully named above
and now we will trace each and see what becomes
of it, as follows:

22

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

Protein — Makes or repairs muscles, tendons, internal organs, skin, also
blood, milk, etc.

Carbohydrates — These (starch and sugar) give energy and heat.

Fats — Give energy and heat, being burned up, that is "oxydized" in
the body. If in excess of needed amount, the- body frugally stores it up
as body-fat — between tissues and in layers, over parts, as a reserve
for lean hard times.

Ash or mineral — Make bones, teeth and all such hard structures of
the body.

FOR INSTANCE Take a fat calf and analyze its body. You will find
about as follows: 60.1% water; 4.5 ash; 13.1 fat; 15.3

protein; with contents of stomach and intestine not digested, but making
up a balance of 7% of the total.

Or, take a sheep as estimated by H. P. Armsby's percentage table,
which we express graphically as follows:

Ash Protein

Fat

Water

Undigested
Matter

LEAN

3.4 /

.5.* / Q.6 \ 56.6 \ 16.0

W

:LLFED

3.3/ 14 £ / 13.Z \ 53.7 \155.O

HA

LFFAT

32 /

3.8 / 18.3 V 50.7 \ 14.0

•A

2..9/

a.£ / 2.8.

\ 44-.S \\Z.O

VL

IYFAT

2.8/ ;

../*/ 37.

2. \ 39.0 \10.0

NATURE'S BANK- The bony, hard structure of the body while practically

ING SYSTEM the same whether an animal is lean or fat is greater

in proportion when the animal is poor and lean.

But the one most interesting thing is the change in the proportion of
fat to the whole make-up of the animal's body; showing how this
is not needed for the work or repair of the body, so long as the
animal continues to get good feed; and consequently it is piled up
as fat wherever the body can find a place to store it. It is in fact
stored just as the camel of the desert stores up water, as a reserve
supply; only the camel tanks up this water in a kind of reservoir, while
fat is distributed all through the oody, marbling the flesh, as butchers
say, or surrounding its parts with layers of fatty tissue. Now, suppose
something happens to this fat animal, whether it is disease or neglect
or any hardship so that the body does not get the proper food or is not
in condition to digest and make use of it. The animal grows lean and
poor, you say. The truth is, for a long, long time the body, keeps up
by living on itself, feeding on its reserve nourishment in the fatty tiss.ues.
If the animal has been over-fat, there will be a real sense of improvement
in feeling as this over-fat decreases; that is, the animal will feel more
bodily vigor, more energy. In the case of a horse this is important . as
he is valued for the work we can get out of him, rather than for ornamental
appearance or butchering weight; but with animals fed for meat produc-
tion, it is this fattened condition we are after. The point, however, to
keep in mind is this:

Over-fat is not a condition of true health in nature.

If you are demanding this over-fat condition, you must counteract
the dangers of it. You must combat nature.

Just how to do it will be outlined later.

RIGHT FEEDING 23

WHAT IS A MAIN- Protein, carbohydrates, fat and ash, as explained

TENANCE RATION? above, must all be combined in the feed to keep

the animal alive in normal, healthy condition.

When the food has all these necessary elements in due proportion, it actually
feeds the animal, i. e., maintains good healthy condition. When this food,
containing all needed elements, is supplied in just the quantity needed from
day to day, we call it a "maintenance ration." This means, the ration main-
tains the animal, that is, it is sufficient for comfort and repair of waste, for
24 hours, but gives no margin for new growth or production.

WHAT IS A When the food, containing all these necessary

BALANCED RATION? elements, is sufficient for the animal's needs and

in addition is sufficient for all we want that

animal to do; and moreover is so combined or proportioned that there is
no excess of any one or more of the needed elements so that all is used and
nothing wasted, the food is then called a "balanced ration."

A balanced ration takes for granted a good, liberal supply of growth,
development, or any other energy required of the animal. A maintenance
ration just gives enough for the animal's own needs, with nothing over for
new growth or new energy. It is plain to see that there is no money in
feeding just a maintenance ration. It is simply humane, and keeps the
animal in comfort from day to day, with nothing over for the owner's
profit.

For instance:

I To maintain existence I To produce for profit

This line represents a "maintenance ration" or "half ration," keepi:
e animal in health, but with no margin over.

To maintain existence | To produce for profit | j

This line represents the maintenance ration plus an allowance for, let
us say, milk production for the owner's profit. In this case it is a "three-
quarters ration."

I To maintain existence j To produce for profit |

This line represents the maintenance ration plus an allowance for ALL
the animal CAN BE MADE TO YIELD FOR THE OWNER'S PROFIT.
It is a FULL PRODUCTION RATION.

Profit depends on what you feed ABOVE the mere MAINTENANCE
RATION up to this limit of full production.

And this is not all clear profit either: You will see that your security
against actual loss for the keep of the animal depends on your feeding
more than maintenance ration; for the animal must pay you back for board
and care, and in addition turn you a good profit on the money invested.

We have seen how under natural conditions each animal must graze
and graze until all the needed elements are secured for this "balanced"
ration. The domesticated animal has no such chance; but must take what
it gets from its feeder. In other words, every animal must depend on
the "balanced" judgment of its owner. Hence we say, in all this question
of feeding, a balanced ration is good; but a balanced judgment is better.

Now, again, clearly the natural grazing animal had no one crowding
it on for production; so of course, with good maintenance ration, it had

24 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

a digestion in full working order. Each nourishing element was promptly
put in solution by the juices of the body, and so absorbed by the hungry
tissues. If the animal took more of any element than the tissue had power
to absorb, then that extra was all wasted. Chemists speak of "saturate
solutions," meaning of course, that as much is dissolved as will dissolve, —
for instance, boracic crystals in hot water. The rest is all waste, since
it cannot get into the solution. But it does for the time being clog the
system; just as the excess of boracic crystals crowd down to the bottom
of the vessel which holds the ''saturate" boracic solution.

Any element that clogs the system, i. e., can not be put in solution, is
a wasted element in the system of feeding.

It not only wastes itself, and is a needless expense for that element;
but it taxes the energy of the animal just that much to get it, and then to
get rid of it.

With the natural grazing animal this waste all came back to the land,
anyway; so nature didn't care how wasteful or extravagant her system
might be.

"NOTHING WASTED?" Nature never stops to think about waste. She

is a simple-minded old dame; and says curtly

it all stays in the universe, so "nothing is wasted." She never thinks of
the waste in time and energy, which mounts up so rapidly.

FIGHTING NATURE The man who pays for feed, does care. He's
downright glad to know all there is to know on
this mighty important subject of "balanced" rations.

Since a poor ration all digested (i. e., put in solution so the body
sponges can take it up) is better than the best of all possible rations not
all digested but wasted; the keen man holds one eye in suspicion on old
Nature, and with the other keeps watch of the animal's digestive ability.
He's in the race for profitable production. He knows it's a fight "agin
nature." It's a race with her — sometimes with a farm mortgage as the
wager. But it is a race the stock owner can win — with energy and
Conkey's assistance.

Why Conkey? Because in full 95% of all cases, the hard pushed
domestic animal must at times have digestive assistance, But more about
Ihis in the proper place later.

HAVE YOU ANY HOLE So we see just how it is that a food too high
IN YOUR POCKET? in one element, protein for instance, and low

in others will be fed at a loss. Protein hap-
pens to be the most expensive element; but the facts would be the same
if the excess happened to be carbohydrates (starch and sugar, which
furnish body fat and heat) or ash (which furnishes bone). Any one of
these fed in excess of the animal's digestive capacity, i. e., power to put
in solution and absorb in solution, is wasted, and makes a hole in the
owner's pocket. Protein is the element we are most careful not to feed
in excess; because it is expensive, and makes the biggest hole in the
pocket.

A ration must be not only balanced, but economical.

WHAT IS You balance a ration according to what you want

THE PRODUCT? to get out of it — horsepower, dairy products, baby

beef, mutton or bacon. Food too high in protein

will produce muscle at the expense of fat; too high in carbohydrates will

RIGHT FEEDING 25

make too much fat and little meat; too high in mineral or ash will make
the animal rangy, with a gangling or heavy bone structure, in each case
wasteful.

So you see it takes a long head and ''balanced" judgment to be a
profitable feeder. But as a scientific problem it is pretty simple to work
out, isn't it? And think of the difference in profit when you feed for what
you want to get, get all you ought to have, and waste nothing over!

HAVE YOU A LONG It takes a long pocket-book — one long and
POCKET-BOOK? wide and deep — to let the feeding problem take

care of itself, without regard to cost and profits.

Stick to the balanced ration. Temper it with balanced judgment, and
remember that practical feeding (just as with practical breeding) can
never be an exact science; and no real scientist claims that. Good judg-
ment— your own — must moderate any working rule anywhere suggested.

TURN TO THE All this talk has been about protein, carbohydrates,

TABLE fat and ash; because it's the protein, carbohydrates, fat

and ash that you actually feed — whether in form

of corn, wheat, oats, roots or hay. But to figure out a ration you'll have
to work from a table of values of common feeds such as are given on pages
29 and 30. So better put a mark there and turn back to it whenever you
have need for reference.

SELECTING Choose the feed for what you want to get out of it.
THE RATION The growing or hard working animal, or one under pres-
sure of breeding, or of milk production, needs what
is called a "narrow" ration; meaning a large proportion of digestible
protein. Idle full-grown animals need less of this protein and a larger
proportion of carbohydrates, or what is called a "wide" ration. Any animal
needs enough of this protein element in its feed to replace the daily loss
of tissue, and make new growth of hair, hoofs, etc.

A NEGLECTED The mineral or ash element is one often neglected

ELEMENT after an animal is grown. Mineral or ash is needed not

only in the bone, but as a necessary element of

various parts of the body. If at any time tjie food does not supply what
is needed of this element, lime, phosphate, etc., the tissues actually take
it from the bone substance itself. The frame of the animal becomes brittle
and "soft" from lack of mineral. Fractures and such accidents are likely
to occur; the owner often wondering what could have caused them. Animals
with young especially need this mineral substance for the bony structure
of the offspring's body. If it isn't supplied in the feed, nature will get it
from the parent animal's body. The bones of the mother will actually be
robbed for what is needed by the young animal's growing body. This is
nature's way. She gets even. In the same way if the daily ration does
not provide the other nutritive elements needed, the poor animal simply
draws from its own fat tissues, and thus feeds on its own body for main-
tenance, or for the growth of the offspring.

WHAT IS A In books on feeding, in farm papers, etc., you

"NUTRITIVE RATIO"? will often come to this term, the "nutritive

ratio;" and we should make sure that we all

know just what it means without merely getting along with a guess or
two at it. We spoke above of the proportion of protein to carbohydrates,

26 _ _ _ CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

etc., in a feed. This proportion of protein is what fixes the nutritive ratio.
Thus the "nutritive ratio" of a certain ration might be written, 1 :6, which
we read 1 to 6, and which could just as well be written in a fractional
form y$, meaning that in this particular ration the protein was l/f> of the
ration. The other ^ would be the combined carbohydrates and fats. For
instance, starch, sugar and fibre of stalks, etc., would be the fats. It is a
"narrow" or "wide" ration according to whether there is more or less of
the protein, the "narrow" ration meaning a large proportion of protein in
comparison with the total carbohydrates and fat.

So you see, in any question of feeding, you work out a "balanced"
ration, making it wide or narrow according to the result you want in
production. Now we come to the big principle of getting not only a
"balanced" but an economical ration.

CHEAPER FEEDS Often, by a little practical looking around, a ration
can be balanced just as well out of home-grown and

near-by less expensive feeds, and so save fully 50% of the owner's cost for
feeding.

Suppose, for instance, a stockman is some distance away from both
oats and timothy crops: Let him look around; it is more than probable
he can substitute a number of cheaper, more convenient home-grown feedst
which he can use to just as good advantage.

WHAT IS ECONOMY? This looking around for cheaper, more con-

venient products is one-half of the problem:

"How to economize in feeding." The other half is the question of waste,
already indicated; and it is certainly a big half in economically balancing
a ration. Without proper knowledge of the elements to be properly bal-
anced, a farmer might feed timothy or any ordinary hay along with corn,
which would certainly be wasteful. These two feeds belong to the same
class. To get the necessary quantity of digestible protein in a ration, say,
of 15 Ibs. of corn, with timothy hay, as much as 36 Ibs. of the hay would
have to be used, which is absurd on the face of it. No work animal could
consume this amount in a day; moreover, there would be a waste of 14 Ibs.
of carbohydrates over what the animal needed, which would mean over-
taxing the animal's organs, and an endless chain of -complicated trouble.
But, if with the 15 Ibs. of corn, alfalfa hay was combined, 10 Ibs. would be
all that was needed, making a well-balanced ration, supplying everything
needed, and doing it all economically in cost to the owner and ease to the
animal's digestive system. The trouble here was that corn and timothy
hay, being both of them grasses (Gramineae), were both rich in carbo-
hydrates but poor in protein. Alfalfa, being a legume or pod bearing crop,
is rich in protein, however, and thus capitally filled in the deficiency of
the corn ration.

It all sounds wordy, but it isn't hard to understand. We know it in
theory already. Do we always put this knowledge into practice?

Even suppose you do, and I do — still the average man doesn't fully
think out his feeding rations and suit each one of them to the animal's
requirements.

300 X 100 X 15^c = ? For instance, we know, in a certain Southern section,
a 100-mule place where they feed on oats and hay.

But they could select other foods, easier to get in that section and cheaper,
and could balance them into a combination, say molasses, corn-and-cob
meal, cotton-seed meal and hay, which would make a saving on each

RIGHT FEEDING 27

animal of 15j^c a day. This cheaper feed would have just as good food
value, mind you.

Figure what this saving would come to — 100 times 15^c per day. By
the time you multiply this amount by the 300 full working ration days in
the year, you have something to show for it, haven't you? Does scientific
feeding pay?

PLEASING Let us stick to this same illustration: adding molasses

THE PALATE in this ration supplies, you say, the sugar needed; but
in fact it does a great deal more — it makes the mixture
palatable.

Palatability is a sort of food insurance, or assurance. If palatable,
more food is eaten, and it is better digested. Never forget this.

"SEASONING" Often there are cheap, easy-to-get feeds on the place but
such as the animal doesn't seem to relish. Did you ever
try seasoning such a ration — either mixing up the unpopular but whole-
some part along with the best liked part of the ration; or else just using
our convenient appetizer, Conkey's Stock Tonic? Digestion starts right if
a food is palatable. At the signal of the palate the mouth "waters" we
say, meaning that the salivary glands respond. A man or animal that
doesn't relish his proper food is just sounding the honk, honk horn for
trouble.

A food may balance all right and still not suit the animal's notion.
Don't reject it but combine it with the Stock Tonic in the small doses
suggested on the package; when it will make the food more likable and
act as a general conditioner, without strong medicinal effect, on account
of the small quantity used.

Remember again: IT ISN'T THE FOOD IN ITS CRUDE STATE
THAT NOURISHES. IT IS WHAT THE DIGESTIVE PROCESSES
GET OUT OF IT. The animal must chew thoroughly, digest fully, so that
the nutritive elements we have been talking about become soluble and can
be taken up by the tissues. Stock Tonic when used in the amount indicated
for a conditioner, gives palatability to food; and thus the necessary elements
in the ration are put in solution by the digestive juices which appetite excites
to secretion.

UNDIGESTED WASTE We first discussed the kind and amount of food

taken. We see now there is this added element

— how much the animal can get out of it. By actual test 5^4 Ibs. of crude
fibre produced more than 2->4 Ibs. of waste or excrement-^only a little over
half of it was digested. Some authorities claim that full digestibility is
secured (approximately) only when the proportion is as follows:

Cattle

1 part digestible crude protein to 8 parts digestible carbohydrates

and fat. Nutritive ratio, 1:8.
Sheep

1 part digestible crude protein to 12 parts digestible carbohydrates

and fat. Nutritive ratio, 1:12.

ANIMALS Animals make quite a different use of their feed;

AND PRODUCTS and according to Prof. Henry,* the cow leads all farm

animals in ability to convert crops into marketable

products, with other livestock — the pig, fowl, steer and sheep— in the order

*Henry's "Feeds and Feeding."

28 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

given. But, in fairness to the sheep, note, this does not make any allow-
ance for the mutton animal's side line of wool for profit. The horse has
naturally less digestive capacity, or rather ability, than the cud-chewing
animals. For instance, compare as follows:

The horse in comparison with the sheep gets:
1/2 the utility of straw.
3/4 " " " hay.
9/10 " " " clover or alfalfa.
10/10 " " " concentrates, oats, etc.

The choice of a ration depends both on the kind of animal to be fed
and the kind of production desired. We usually estimate 10 Ibs. of dry
matter to make a pound of beef; but 30 Ibs. of dry matter to make a pound
of butter.

A "BALANCED RATION" Now sum up, and see what we come to:

A balanced ration must be balanced right

for:

(1) The animal to be fed,

(2) The product fed for,

(3) Chemical elements,

(4) Total weight of food,

(5) Total bulk of food,

(6) Palatability, digestibility.

PALATABILITY — Palatability and digestibility are close kin in feeding;
DIGESTIBILITY still they aren't twins, and we mustn't confuse them.
In a few special cases, palatability lessens digesti-
bility; for instance, cooking rather lessens digestibility of food for live-
stock, though making more palatable. (Potatoes and such starchy tubers
are the exception to this fact. They are much better for livestock when
cooked.) Grinding increases both palatability and digestibility, making the
food more available, so that digestion can start at once with the saliva in
the animal's mouth. However, if this grinding costs more than 10% of the
value of the grain, the advantage is too expensive to be very practical.

VARIETY Palatability has in it another important element — variety.

IN FEEDING Animals thrive where feeds are changed from time to
time, so that they get proper variety. In other words,
after a certain time food loses by sameness some of its palatability. On
the other hand, up to a certain point food gains by habit or. custom; for
there are many instances where feeds were not relished when newly intro-
duced to livestock, but later on proved very acceptable when the stock got
used to them — rape, for instance, which is now so relished by sheep on
western ranges. Of course no change must be sudden. The animal must
be accustomed gradually to the change, or digestive troubles will follow.

CONTENTED Fright of any kind checks the digestive operation.
MIND A "contented mind is a continual feast."

Kindness to animals greatly aids digestion.
These are scientific conclusions.

RIGHT FEEDING

29

Average Digestible Nutrients and Fertilizing Elements in Common Feeds

Dry
matter
in 100
Ibs.

KIND OF FEED

DIGESTIBLE NUTRIENTS
IN 100 LBS.

FERTILIZING CONSTI-
TUENTS IN 1 TON

Pro-
tein

Carbo-
hy-
drates

Fat

Total
with
fat x 2 1-4

Nitrogen

Phos-
phoric
Acid

Potash

Lbs.

28.2
20.0
25.0
10.2
25.2
19.1
20.0
29.2
16.4
20.7
28.9
34.9
20.3
20.0
20.6
24.9
9.9

93.2
92.9
86.0
903
84.7
59.5
89.5
85.7
89.8
88.4
86.0
86.0
90.0
89.5
90.8
91.1
94.2
86.8
85.8
88.7
90.0

85.8
90.8
92.9
90.4

27.5
15.0
29.7
26.4
26.3
21.0
20.7
23.2
28.0
23.9

11.5
13.5
9.1

Green Fodders

Alfalfa
Barley and Peas . .
Barnyard millet . .
Beet pulp, wet .

Lbs.
3.6
2.1
1.6
0.5
2.6
2.4
2.0
2.9
1.8
1.0
2.0
2.8
1.8
2.5
0.6
31
0.9

11.1
6.4
4.4
8.4
7.1
1.4
5.8
4.8
2.9
2.4
5.0
4.7
8.0
7.6
3.0
4.8
2.5
2.8
4.9
11.9
3.2

0.9
1.3
0.7
0.8

3.0
0.7
4.6
1.4
1.1
0.3
1.5
2.1
1.5
0.1

1.2
1.3
1.0

Lbs.
12.1
9.1
14.4
7.7
11.4
9.1
9.1
14.9
8.7
11.9
15.9
19.7
10.2
10.1
11.6
11.0
4.9

39.1
44.9
40.2
39.7
37.8
31.2
39.3
35.8
45.6
29.9
46.9
36.7
41.0
36.8
42.9
46.9
44.3
42.4
40.1
40.7
45.7

40.1
39.5
39.6
35.2

8.5
9.6
11.5
14.2
14.9
11.9
8.6
13.1
9.2
13.5

7.9
9.8
5.5

Lbs.
04
0.4
0.3

05
0.5
0.2
07
0.2
0.4
0.4
0.8
0.4
0.5
03
0.5
0.2

0.6
1.6
07
.1
1.8
07
.3
.0
0.8
0.9
.1
.7
.7
.5
.6
.0
09
3
.5
.6
1.9

0.6
0.8
0.4
0.4

1.9
0.5
1.8
0.7
0.7
0.6
0.9
0.8
0.5
0.2

0.1
0.1
0.2

Lbs.
16.6
12.1
16.7
8.2
15.1
12.6
11.5
194
10.9
13.8
18.8
24.3
12.9
13.7
12.9
15.2
6.2

52.2
54.9
46.2
50.6
49.0
34.2
48.1
418
50.3
343
544
45.2
52.8
47.8
49.5
53.9
48.8
48.1
48.9
56.2
53.2

42.3

42.6
41.2
37.0

15.8
11.4
20.1
17.2
17.6
13.5
12.1
17.0
11.7
14.0

9.3
11.3
6.9

Lbs.
15.4
9.0
7.6
2.8
12.4
10.0
9.6
14.0
7.6
5.8
10.0
13.3
7.6
10.2
4.2
12.8
4.4

49.4
34.2
25.0
41.0
39.4
12.2
28.6

23

28.4
37.6
33.0
9.9
25.2

18.8
28.6
54.4

14.0
11.6
10.0
10.0

3.8
20.2
8.6
7.0
4.6
8.6
9.0
13.4
2.6

4.8
5.8

4.4

Lbs.
2.6

2.2
0.6
2.2
2.4

3.0
2.6
2.2
2.4

3.0
5.2
1.4
2.8
1.2

12.2

8.0
10.0
11.0
7.6
10.4

13.4
11.0
12.2

7.2

6.6
8.3
19.4

4.0
6.0
5.0
4.4

3.0
8.4
2.2

3.0
3.0

1.6
1.6
1.8

Lbs.
11.1

11.6

22.8
4.0
8.0

9.6
9.2
7.8
8.4

10.0

14.8
6.8
11.2
18.4

35.8

31.4

27.8
37.4
21.8
29.4

50.8
21.6
36.2

20.4

28.4
32.9
48.8

21.2
35.4
17.2
12.6

8.0
1.0

7.4

9.2
3.8

9.6
7.4
7.6

Clover, Alsike ....
Clover, Crimson . .
Clover, Mammoth . .
Clover, Red

Cowpea
Fodder corn

Hungarian grass
Kentucky blue grass . . .
Oats and peas
Pasture grass, mixed . .
Sorghum fodder
Soy bean
Teosinte

Dry Fodders and Hay

Alfalfa

Bermuda
Blue grass

Clover, alsike
Clover, red
Corn stover, (stalks) . . .
Cowpea .
Crab grass
Johnson grass
Marsh hay

Millet
Oat hay
Pea hay
Oat and pea hay
Prairie (upland)
Red top
Sorghum

Timothy
Timothy and clover . . .
Vetch

Wheat
Straw
Barley
Oat
Rye
Wheat

Silage

Alfalfa

Apple pomace
Brewers grains
Corn
Corn, ears removed . . .
Corn cannery refuse . . .
Cowpea
Pea cannery refuse . . .
Red clover
Sorghum

Roots and Tubers

Beets, common
Beets, sugar
Beets, mangels

30

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

Average Digestible Nutrients and Fertilizing Elements — Continued

DIGESTIBLE NUTRIENTS

FERTILIZING CONSTI-

Dry

IN 100 LBS.

TUENTS IN 1 TON

matter
• IAA

KIND OF FEED

in iuu
ii__

T>.-~

Carbo-

Total

Phos-

IDs.

.rro-

hy-

Fat

with

Nitrogen

phoric

Potash

tein

drates

f at x 2 1-4

Acid

Lbs.

Roots and Tubers

Lbs.

Lbs.

Lbs.

Lbs.

Lbs.

Lbs.

Lbs.

11.4

Carrots

0.8

7.7

0.3

9.2

3.6

1.8

5.2

11.7

Parsnips

1.1

10.1

0.2

11.6

5.2

4.0

8.8

20.9

Potatoes

1.1

15.7

0.1

17.0

6.8

3.2

1.6

11.4

Rutabagas

1.0

8.1

0.2

9.5

3.8

2.4

9.8

28.9

Sweet potatoes

0.8

22.9

0.3

24.4

4.8

1.6

7.4

9.9

Turnips

0.9

6.4

0.1

7.5

4.2

1.8

6.8

Grains, Seeds and

their By-Products

89.2

Barley

8.4

65.3

1.6

77.3

38.4

15.8

9.6

23.0

Brewers grains, wet . .

4.9

7.6

1.7

16.3

21.4

8.4

1.0

91.3

Brewers grains, dry . .

20.0

32.2

6.0

65.7

80.0

32.2

4.0

90.5

Malt sprouts

20.3

46.0

1.4

69.4

84.2

34.8

39.0

91.6

Beet pulp dried

4.1

64.9

69.0

25.8

4.4

6.2

86.6

Buckwheat

8.1

48.2

2.4

61.7

34.6

13.8

6.0

91.8

Buckwheat bran . . .

5.9

34.0

2.0

44.4

40.2

8.4

25.4

86.8

Buckwheat hulls . . .

1.2

28.6

0.5

31.4

14.6

8.6

29.4

87.2

Buckwheat middlings .

22.7

37.5

6.1

83.9

85.4

24.6

22.8

894

Corn

7.8

66.8

43

88.6

33.0

14.2

11.4

85.0

Corn meal

6.7

64.3

3.5

78.9

29.4

12.6

9.4

84.9

Corn and cob meal . .

4.4

60.0

2.9

70.9

27.2

11.4

9.4

90.6

Corn bran

6.0

52.5

4.8

69.3

35.8

20.2

12.4

89.3

Corn cob

0.5

44.8

45.3

7.8

1.2

12.0

92.4

Distillers grains ....

22.8

39.7

11.6

88.6

89.8

12.0

3.4

90.8

Gluten feed

21.3

52.8

2.9

80.6

80.0

7.4

0.8

90.4

Hominy chop ....

6.8

60.5

7.4

84.0

33.6

19.6

9.8

89.7

Cottonseed

12.5

30.0

17.3

85.7

59.8

21.0

21.8

88.9

Cottonseed hulls . .

0.3

33.2

1.7

37.3

13.4

8.6

20.8

93.0

Cottonseed meal . .

37.6

21.4

9.6

80.6

145.0

60.8

31.6

89.7

Cocoanut cake

15.4

41.2

10.7

80.7

63.0

32.0

48.0

85.4

Cowpeas

16.8

54.9

1.1

74.2

65.6

20.2

24.0

90.8

Flax seed

20.6

17.1

29.0

104.7

72.4

27.8

20.6

90.2

Oil meal, old process

30.2

32.0

6.9

77.7

108.4

33.2

27.4

91.0

Oil meal, new process .

31.5

35.7

2.4

72.6

120.0

34.8

26.8

901

Kafir

5.2

44.3

1.4

52.6

35.8

86.4

Kafir corn heads . . .

4.2

42.4

1.2

49.3

29.4

87.9

Millet

7.1

48.5

2.5

61.2

34.8

13.0

6.6

89.6

Oats

10.7

50.3

3.8

69.5

36.4

15.6

9.6

88.0
91.2

Oats ground
Oat middlings

10.1
13.1

52.5

57.7

3.7

6.5

70.9
85.4

39.4
51.8

15.2
45.0

10.0
30.6

93.5

Oat dust 5.1

32.8

2.3

43.1

89.5

Pea meal

16.8

51.7

0.7

70.1

64.6

16.4

19.8

89.2

Rice polish

7.9

58.6

5.3

78.4

38.0

53.4

14.2

90.3

Rice bran

7.6

388

7.3

62.8

38.0

5.8

4.8

91.3

Rye

9.5

69.4

1.2

81.6

36.2

17.2

11.6

86.9

Rye flour

5.6

72.2

0.5

78.9

21.4

16.4

13.0

88.4

Rye bran

11.2

46.8

1.8

61.8

46.6

45:6

28.0

88.2

Rye middlings ....

11.0

52.9

2.6

69.7

45.8

24.6

19.2

Rye distillers grains . .

14.6

45.7

4.5

70.4

88.3

Soy beans

29.1

23.3

14.6

85.2

107.3

20.8

25.2

92.0

Spelz, emmer .

10.0

70.3

2.0

84.8

36.8

15.2

11.4

89.5

Wheat

8.8

67.5

1.5

79.7

38.0

11.0

17.4

88.1

Wheat bran

11.9

42.0

2.5

61.5

49.2

53.8

30.4

90.0

Wheat middlings . . .

16.9

53.6

4.1

79.7

61.4

24.4

19.2

88.0

Wheat shorts

13.0

45.7

4.5

68.8

54.0

52.6

30.6

90.1

Red dog flour

16.2

57.0

3.4

80.8

58.8

Miscellaneous

74.1

Porto Rico molasses . . .

1.4

59.2

80.6

8.6

2.4

73.6

79.2

Sugar beet molasses . . .

. 4.7

54.1

58.8

29.0

1.0

112.6

91.5

Dried blood

60.8

25

66.4

270.9

27.0

15.4

93.0

Tankage

50.1

11.6

76.2

172.4

278.0

6.0

9.1

Field pumpkins

1.0

5.8

0.2

7.2 4.2

RIGHT FEEDING

II. Practical Feeding

TWO CLASSES Feeds for farm animals are considered in two classes,

concentrates and roughage.

Concentrates are the grains, bran, oil meal, and such highly nutritious
condensed feeding stuffs. Roughage is the more bulky, coarse-material
feed, such as hay, corn fodder, forage, silage, roots, straw, etc.

BULK NEEDED All animals, man included, need bulk as well as con-
centrated nourishment. But the needs of different

animals vary greatly. All do not have the same capacity for bulky food.
The horse, for instance, has a stomach that holds about 19 quarts. But
the ox has room for about 200 quarts,* the sheep 31 quarts; and the hog
only about &*/2 quarts, on the average. Now the ox and the sheep are
cud-chewers, with large capacity for storing food during the process of
digesting. But the horse and the hog can more quickly get their food out
of their stomach and into the intestines, thus making room for more. Of
all the farm animals the pig is the least suited to bulky feed, because of
its small stomach. The horse manages very well; but to insure digestion,
his morning and noon feeds should always be light and the bulk feed
should never be fed right after the grain, for the grain would then be
crowded out of the stomach before the poor animal had time to fully
digest it. He should have his water first, then a little hay, and then the
grain.

Bulk distends the walls of the intestines, and thus helps those tissues
to absorb the food elements. It also keeps the concentrated feed from
passing too quickly through the intestines, so that it can not be fully
digested, i. e., put in solution, for the walls to absorb it, but hurries out and
is wasted.

Some good rules for feeding bulk are here given, but with any rule
we must make allowance for varied working conditions. These are general:

For the work-horse... 1 part concentrate to 1 part roughage.
" beef steer ....... 1 '1

" dairy cow ....... 2 " " 3 "

" sheep ........... 1 " "2

" Swine ............. Feed concentrates almost entirely.

For practical purposes compare here the rations given (for horse)
page 48 (dairy cow) page 38, (beef steer) page 42, (sheep) page 49, (swine)
page 55.

As a rule it is more economical to raise the roughage and buy the
concentrates, if buying is necessary. Select your feeding crop and then
compare it with the table, page 29, for its feeding value, and see what
concentrates would best combine with it. Compare a number of concen-
trates together, and then make final choice of the ones you can get the
easiest and cheapest. Remember in this table what each element will do
for you; especially —

Protein — Makes and repairs lean tissues, hair, hoof, casein in milk, etc.
THIS IS USUALLY AN EXPENSIVE ELEMENT.

Carbohydrates and fats — Keep body warm, supply working power,
make surplus fat. THESE ARE USUALLY FAIRLY CHEAP ELE-
MENTS.

*Compare Strangeway's Anatomy.

32

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

CORN Corn is easily the king of all grains. It is the great energizing,
heat-giving, fattening food for farm animals. But, it does lack
material for bone and muscle; (compare the table and see how low it is
in crude protein and mineral matter). Animals like it because of the rich,
palatable oil, which makes it so agreeable after it is masticated. But this
oil becomes rancid after corn is ground to meal; so it should be ground
only as needed, and will then never be musty or stale, but will be properly
relished by the animals.

OATS Oats are next to corn in the amount grown in this country. They
are the safest of all feeds for horses — valuable also for the dairy
cow; but oats are high priced. However, whatever the price, be sure you
know what you are buying, and run over carefully the following points of
difference in oats:

Good Oats. Inferior Oats New Oats.

Clean Dirty Shiny husks

Even size Uneven size Earthy smell

Short Small Sweet, milky taste

Plump Flat Soft

Heavy Light Bearded

Hard Soft Down-covered kernel Husks drawn tight

Thin-skinned Coarse-skinned Ends of grain soft Ends of grain sharp
Dry Mouldy Flour juicy Flour dry

Old Oats.
No lustre
Free from odor
Bitter taste
Hard
Beards nibbed off

CRUSHED OR
BRUISED OATS

Give good oats always, and oats of the proper age
where possible. It is a very important matter that
they should be crushed for all horses. Crushed oats

are a great benefit to any horse. They are eaten better if the animal is
delicate and greediness becomes a matter of lesser importance. The grain
digests better and goes farther as a nutrient food. It will save considerable

Cow Pea

Field Pea

Soy Bean

waste; and the process of going through the crusher separates a lot of
dirt that, even in "clean" oats, will surprise you. Crushing oats assists
mastication and digestion; and the grain does not pass whole through the
stomach and bowels undigested, as is often noticed when whole oats are
fed. Crushed oats will furnish one-third more nutriment, measure for
measure, than whole oats.

How often are oats or hay fed intelligently? How often does the
ordinary stableman know whether they are good, bad, or indifferent? The

RIGHT FEEDING

33

farmer is supposed to know; but how often is there one who has had a
bad year with his crops? His hay has been hauled in before an expected
storm when it was but half cured, and stowed away in the barn to
become mow-burnt and musty; or his oats may have turned out to be
about all beards and but little kernel. It would pay him better to throw
such hay out and buy from his more fortunate neighbors; but does he
do it? Not once in twenty cases, but while he knows that it is not good,
he goes ahead and feeds it, believing that he is economizing when he is
certainly inviting trouble and loss. The food should be most thoroughly
inspected.

BRAN Here is a feed not generally understood, so that farmers some-
times misuse it. This is the husk or skin of the wheat grains.
The outer part acts as a laxative, and this power is increased by warming —
see page 15 for directions for Bran Mash. Bran fed dry will counteract the
bad effect of too much physic. It is good to soften water that is hard,
or to purify water that is suspected. Just stir in a few handfuls. As a
corrective for animals it stands at the head of all feeds, when given not
too often and at the temperature of the body. It is especially good for
all animals burdened with young, also excellent for milk cows. It is good
to combine with corn or similar fattening feeds, as it is a bone and muscle
maker, without being a fattener. It has a good deal of bulk for a con-
centrate, so must be used accordingly.

Bran is especially useful to aid digestion of starchy foods. It contains
the mysterious substance called diastase, a digestive ferment which converts
starch into sugar.

Rape
LINSEED MEAL

Sand Vetch

Linseed meal is another mill product. Use only a
little at a time, because it is rich in crude protein,
and also is somewhat laxative. It helps to give that good pliable feel to
the hide, and the glistening coat that speaks so well for general condition.
A little is better than much, for instance:

34

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

For the horse y2 to \l/2 Ibs. per day (more will make him soft).

' dairy cow 1 to 2 Ibs. "
' fat sheep l/4 to y$ Ibs. "
' steer 2 to 3 Ibs. "

' h°g 1A to y3 ibs. " "

HAY It is to be hoped your hay comes from a mixed meadow, such, for
instance, as red top, timothy and orchard grass, with a little alsike
and medium red clover and some white clover; then you will get big crops,
and the livestock will benefit by the aromatic, palatable blending. Good
hay is very important. Feeding hay that is inferior, mouldy, mow-burnt,
or dirty is a common cause of poor condition of farm animals, loss of
spirits, loss of working capacity; and in horses causes broken wind, and
heaves.

MUSTY AND Sometimes serious brain diseases are caused by

ERGOTED GRAINS moldy food, or food that is wormy. Ergot, the

black mold on rye and such grains (maybe you

call it "spurred rye"), produces the poisoned condition called ergotism,
for which see page 141 under Diseases. The big caution is — Avoid all
smutty and moldy foods for livestock.

. LEGUME CROPS The general grains — corn, oats, wheat, rye, barley
— and the grasses — timothy, prairie hay, etc., — are

great energizers and fatteners. You noted their high per cent, in the carbo-
hydrates column. Another class of feeds, the legumes — alfalfa, clover,
vetch, cow pea, soy bean, etc. — represent muscle
and bone builders, being rich in protein, also in
lime, which latter element is important to all farm
animals. In these two elements, protein and
lime, the legume crops are the strongest of all
raised on the farm. We know that legume crops
are a positive necessity if we expect to keep up
the fertility of the soil, so on this as well as our
livestock account, the legumes must claim the
farmer's closest attention. We haven't the space
here to get enthusiastic. But take it to heart,
what the farmer of today doesn't know about
legumes, and especially in this alfalfa day, what he
doesn't know about alfalfa, he must make short
work to find out, or he'll be left far behind the
procession.

ALFALFA, ALFALFA, The song of songs
ALFALFA! would be the song of

alfalfa, the wonderful

gift of nature to crop-tilling man. No other
roughage on the farm can compare with it in
variety of uses. Fed to fattening steers, it tends
to rapid gains, at far less use of expensive con-
centrates. Alfalfa hay for dairy cows gives the
very best material for milk production. Alfalfa
leads as a roughage for sheep. It is even use-
ful for fattening hogs, or tiding them over the
winter — and the hog, you know, is an almost total
abstainer from ordinary roughage. Horses at
slow and steady work can make good use of alfal-
fa, though it is unsuited to road animals. In the

Alfalfa

RIGHT FEEDING 35

West alfalfa "has revolutionized sheep fattening as an industry." It may
be grazed to some extent, but it is really a hay crop. Alfalfa is invaluable
for soiling, as so often practiced in the economical East. It furnishes
a nearly continuous summer forage. Alfalfa can even be insilaged; but
better leave that to corn, and cure the alfalfa. The first crop coming
at a rainy season is a little hard to cure, but the use of a hay cap will save
that trouble largely. Once well started it is a sure crop.

Advice: Study alfalfa.

ROOTS AND We, in the United States, have not learned to rely on
TUBERS roots and tubers for feeding livestock, in spite of the

excellent showing of Canadian, English, and Continental
European feeders. The truth is roots are expensive, on account of the
high per cent, of water. Of course, based on dry matter, a pound of dry
matter in roots would have about the same value as a pound of corn,
wheat, oats or barley. The animals like roots and tubers, to be sure — just
see that dairy cow go for those carrots. They have a tonic value, as well
as being nutritious. Usually they are cut or sliced and put into the feed

Home-made Root Chopper

boxes with a little meal over them. In Canada and England the plan is to
pulp them up and spread in alternate layers, first pulp then some cut straw
or hay — a sort of scalloped stock-food, just as the housewife scallops
oysters. This is a good way to get the fullest possible use of straw; and
with only a small amount of concentrate used, the expense is not so great
as might be, either. There is plenty of room for experimenting with roots
for livestock; for we have yet to equal root-feeding countries in the general
average of beef and mutton quality.

Note one fact in root feeding: It tends to a more watery flesh, which
is a better preparation for fattening; and is always an advantage for breed-
ing animals. If then we must be slow to utilize roots on account of the
expense in feeding, it will certainly pay to consider them more fully for
use for breeding animals, and for preparing animals for that final fatten-
ing or "finish," since the watery tissue is a real advantage with both of
these classes, the "breeders" and "feeders."

1. Feeding the Dairy Cow

ALWAYS The dairy cow is a big feeder. But if you give her legumes
HUNGRY such as alfalfa, clover, etc., rich in crude protein and mineral
matter, you can do with less concentrates; and these are the
expensive feed for the dairyman.

With legumes so used, it is best to use also a succulent roughage, such
as silage, or palatable nourishing roots, after the European system. This
in turn reduces the amount of straw, corn stover or low grade hay to be
used, and of course relieves the cow of just that much extra strain in diges-
tion,

36

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

A rich legume will take the place of half the usual expensive concen-
trate, provided corn silage and roots are included. Prof. Henry estimates
on this basis that about 6 Ibs. of concentrates would be enough for the
average dairy ration daily.

Start in once more and read the above all over again; for it gives you
the very cream of modern scientific conclusions on dairy feeding.

IN WINTER You see, the dairy cow must have lots of protein. If in full
milk she needs nearly 2 Ibs. of digestible protein per day;
but instead of purchasing such feed as bran, shorts, oatmeal, gluten meal,
etc., give her common farm feeds like clover, alfalfa, cow peas, and oats;
all of which are rich in protein, and easy to grow on the farm. Add to this
corn silage. If your silage is heavily eared, you can even dispense with
grain, and will get nicely through the winter. Well cured clover or alfalfa
hay is about the best bulky feed to give during the winter. Timothy, of
course, doesn't contain enough protein for good milk yield. Remember
that roots, mangels, turnips, pumpkins and other green vegetables will help
out on the milk production, and keep the cows happy.

IN SUMMER In summer you have your pastures; but grow corn and
other crops in summer for green feeding when pastures
are short — then you won't lose out on your milk contracts; for such crops
make well balanced feed and are available on the farm from May to October.
One man by cropping all his land, cutting out all pasture and soiling the
crops, that is cutting and bringing them to the barnyard for feeding, just
about doubled the number of cows he could provide with acreage, — of
course doubling the size of his dairy. This is getting to be quite the favored
method in dairying, — cutting down pastures, but raising green crops and
bringing these to the barnyard or feed lot (called the "soiling" system)
right to the animals. Of course there is more labor, (you'll need an extra
farm hand), but with a larger herd, more home grown feed and little to
buy, that extra cost for labor is drowned out in the milk pail. On the
soiling system with no pasture, each cow consumes from 75 to 100 Ibs. of
forage daily.

THE MODERN SILO Don't neglect the silo. Every dairy farm should
have one. Concrete is best, but staves will do

when fitted air-tight and strongly hooped together. You can estimate
the size you need by remembering that well settled silage counts 45 Ibs.
to the cubic foot. The cost of silage varies from
$1 to $2 a ton, — it shouldn't go over that. This is
where you save money over and over again, and
at the same time make money on increased milk
production. So don't neglect the silo. If you
haven't one, build it next summer and pack it
completely. A round silo is best, as it gives the
greatest capacity for the least area and building
material, and there are no corners for the silage
to spoil in. Make it 30 ft. high, if possible, and
never under 20 ft., for height increases the pres-
sure, and the silage will keep better. Feed at least
2 ins. from the top surface every day. Estimate 5 Building a Stave Silo

sq. ft. (2 ins. deep) to each cow. Thus a herd of 20

would need a feeding surface of 100 sq. ft., that is, a 12 ft. diameter silo.
Don't have too large a diameter, or you will lose a good deal of silage
through molding. Better have two small silos than one too large in diameter,

RIGHT FEEDING • 37

STICK TO Milk cows should have all the feed they can digest

A GOOD SYSTEM without undue waste in excrement. Good feed and
care will make all of 50% difference in the final pro-
duction of the dairy herd. Prof. Eckles, of University of Missouri, says
the average yearly production could be increased from one-half to three-
fourths simply by following better methods of feeding. Of course the
ration must be good, that is properly balanced in the elements it contains
for milk production; and it must be palatable to the animals, and cheap
as possible for the owner.

A STORY At Cornell experiment station they have a story of a

FROM CORNELL certain "up-state" farmer with a herd of poorly nour-
ished cows, from which he got a weekly milk yield

of about 109 Ibs. testing 4.56% butter-fat. The whole herd was taken to
the experiment station, and for two years put on liberal feed and care,
and the average milk yield jumped to 155 Ibs. per week for the herd, with
a butter-fat percentage of 4.7 average. At the end of these two years the
herd was sent back to the owner, and for another year records were kept
to see the result under the owner's "slack feeding" methods: The average
went back to the old meagre standard.

HERE'S FROM Wisconsin station has been making some good dairy
WISCONSIN feeding tests, with results as follows:

25 cows: 1 year record —
Average milk yield 8,439.6 Ibs. (363.32 Ibs. butter-fat).

Average value of milk $111.76

Average cost of feeding 50.34

Average net profit $ 61.42

In this test the grain ration used was as follows: Wheat bran 3 parts,
corn meal 4 parts, distillers' grains 3 parts. Small amounts of oats, oil-
meal and brewers' grains for variety.

Tests of individual cows showed the following: High producers use
large amounts of dry matter, with as much as 2^> Ibs. digestible protein
daily. But low producers, and those advanced in milking, could make
economical use of considerably less grain and cheaper feed stuffs in
general.

Its all in the cow, — and the feeder.

HOW CON- In some countries where conditions do not vary much,

DITIONS VARY in Denmark for instance, it would be easy to lay down

a few definite rules. In this country the feeding

problem is different for almost every dairy. Local conditions, the feeds
cheapest and easiest to get, the crops raised on the farm, all enter into
the problem. The ration must be made up to fit the dairy needs; but it
must be selected from feeds that are comparatively easy to get and cheap.
The following have been made up to suit conditions found in different
parts of the country, making use of available feeds and little or no allow-
ance for pasture. Of course, with a considerable pasture, there is prac-
tically no fair rule for figuring. In these rations, the amount of mixed
feed or concentrates is estimated at 1 Ib. a day for each 3 or 3l/2 Ibs. of
milk. Feed the cow according to her dairy test. Put into each cow
what you think you can get out of her: Find out her full capacity, then
estimate about 50% to 60% of that ration will be needed to maintain her
normal weight. If you feed her less than capacity you don't hurt the
cow, but you do cut off her production for you, that is, your profit,

38 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

Some Practical Dairy Rations

EASTERN STATES.

200 Ibs. bran, 300 Ibs. corn chop*, 300 Ibs. buckwheat middling. For
roughage hay 10 Ibs. per head, and stover as desired.

400 Ibs. distillery grains, 300 Ibs corn, 100 Ibs. bran. For roughage
mixed clover and timothy 10 Ibs. per head, and corn stover as wanted.

400 Ibs. bran, and oats, 200 Ibs. corn chop, 200 Ibs. Unicorn dairy feed.
For roughage 30 to 35 Ibs. silage, and clover hay as wanted.

300 Ibs. Ajax, 200 Ibs. buckwheat middlings, and 300' Ibs. corn chop.
Silage 25 Ibs., hay as wanted.

400 Ibs. corn chop, 100 Ibs. bran and 200 Ibs. Ajax Flakes. Silage 25
to 30 Ibs., hay as wanted.

400 Ibs. corn chop, 300 Ibs. Three D Grains, 100 Ibs. bran, 200 Ibs. oil
meal, hay as wanted.

600 Ibs. corn and cob meal, 400 Ibs. dried grains, mixed with molasses
fed each day. For roughage hay, 10 Ibs., corn stover 10 Ibs., beets 20 to
30 Ibs. per head.

600 Ibs. ground corn, 400 Ibs. Buffalo gluten. For roughage, silage
and clover hay.

400 Ibs. corn chop, 200 Ibs. cottonseed meal, 100 Ibs. oilmeal. Silage
25 Ibs., hay as wanted.

300 Ibs. corn chop, 200 Ibs. bran, 100 Ibs. oats, 100 Ibs. oilmeal. For
roughage, 12 to 15 Ibs. clover hay, and corn stover as wanted.

300 Ibs. corn chop, 200 Ibs. bran, 200 Ibs. buckwheat middlings, 100 Ibs.
oilmeal. For roughage, all the mixed hay wanted.

400 Ibs. corn chop, 300 Ibs. oats, 100 Ibs. cottonseed meal. Silage 30
Ibs., hay as wanted.

400 Ibs. corn and cob meal, 300 Ibs. oats, 100 Ibs. cottonseed meal. For
roughage, 30 Ibs. silage, hay as wanted.

500 Ibs. corn chop, 200 Ibs. gluten feed, 100 Ibs. malt sprouts. For
roughage, clover hay as wanted.

300 Ibs. corn chop, 300 Ibs. dried brewers' grains, 200 Ibs. malt sprouts.
For roughage, 10 Ibs. mixed hay, corn stover as wanted.

SOUTHERN STATES

400 Ibs. corn hearts, 100 Ibs. cottonseed meal, 200 Ibs. bran and oats.
For roughage, 30 Ibs. silage and cow-pea hay.

Mixed 400 Ibs. corn-chop, 200 Ibs. oats, 100 Ibs. distillery grain, 100
Ibs. oilmeal. For roughage alfalfa, all each cow would eat.

400 Ibs. corn-chop, 200 Ibs. bran and 100 Ibs. cottonseed meal. Silage
30 Ibs., hay as wanted.

300 Ibs. corn-chop, 200 buckwheat middlings, 200 Ibs. bran, 100 Ibs.
oilmeal. For roughage, all the clover hay wanted.

400 Ibs. corn-chop, 300 Ibs. bran, 100 Ibs. cottonseed meal. For rough
age, 30 Ibs. silage, clover hay as wanted.

400 Ibs. corn-chop, 300 Ibs. bran, 100 Ibs. cottonseed meal. For rough-
age, 12 to 15 Ibs. alfalfa and Johnson grass hay, 5 Ibs. cottonseed hulls.

CENTRAL STATES

500 Ibs. corn-chop, 400 Ibs. bran, 100 Ibs. cottonseed meal. For rough-
age, 30 Ibs. silage, 15 Ibs. alfalfa and all the clover hay wanted.

400 Ibs. corn-chop, 300 Ibs. bran, 100 Ibs. gluten feed. For roughage,
24 part silage to 1 part clover hay.

*Corn-chop is corn ground reasonbly fine. It contains the bran.

RIGHT FEEDING 39

300 Ibs. corn-chop, 500 Ibs. oats and peas. For roughage, etc., silage
(30 Ibs per head), and clover hay as wanted.

300 Ibs. corn-chop and 300 Ibs, oats, 150 Ibs. cottonseed meal. For
roughage, 15 to 18 Ibs. prairie hay, oat straw to pick over. Oilmeal would
help above ration.

400 Ibs. ground kafir corn, 100 Ibs oats and 100 Ibs. bran. For rough-
age, 30 Ibs. silage, and mixed hay as wanted.

300 Ibs. corn-chop, 200 Ibs. ground oats, 200 Ibs. bran, 100. Ibs oil meal.
For roughage, 12 to 15 Ibs. clover hay per head and corn stover as wanted.

400 Ibs. corn-chop, 200 Ibs. Union grain, 200 Ibs. bran. For roughage,
20 Ibs. silage per head with hay as wanted, mixed timothy and clover.

400 Ibs. corn-chop, 200 Ibs. gluten feed, 200 Ibs. bran, 100 Ibs. oil meal.
For roughage, 10 to 12 Ibs. clover hay, corn stover, all the 'cow will eat.

300 Ibs. corn-chop, 300 Ibs. hominy, 100 Ibs. oil meal, 100 Ibs. cotton-
seed meal. For roughage, 20 Ibs. corn silage, and mixed hay as wanted.

300 Ibs. oats and bran, 400 Ibs. corn-chop, 100 Ibs. oil meal. Silage,
30 Ibs., hay 8 to 12 Ibs.

200 Ibs. malt sprouts (to be soaked in water several hours before
using), 300 Ibs. gluten feed, 200 Ibs. bran, 200 Ibs. corn-chop. For rough-
age, 35 to 40 Ibs. silage, corn stover as wanted.

200 Ibs. corn-chop, 10 Ibs. distillery grains, 100 Ibs. bran. For rough-
age, 30 to 35 Ibs. silage, clover hay as wanted.

100 Ibs. cottonseed meal, 200 Ibs. bran, 200 Ibs. corn-chop. For rough-
age, 10-12 Ibs. timothy and clover hay, cottonseed hulls as wanted.

100 Ibs. cottonseed meal, 400 Ibs. bran, 400 Ibs. corn-chop, 100 Ibs.
oil meal. For roughage, 10 Ibs. millet and cow-pea hay (half and half).
Corn fodder as wanted.

300 Ibs corn-chop, 300 Ibs. bran, 200 Ibs. gluten feed. For roughage,
30 to 35 Ibs. silage, clover hay as wanted.

NORTH CENTRAL STATES

400 Ibs. corn-chop, 200 Ibs. Continental gluten, 200 Ibs. ground oats.
For roughage, 30 Ibs. silage and all the hay wanted.

400 Ibs. corn-chop, 300 Ibs. bran, 100 Ibs. cottonseed meal. Silage, 30
Ibs., hay 8 to 10 Ibs,, corn stover as wanted.

500 Ibs. corn and cob meal, 300 Ibs. bran, 200 Ibs. cottonseed meal.
For roughage, 30 Ibs silage, 8 to 10 Ibs. mixed hay, corn stover as wanted.

400 Ibs. corn-chop, 300 Ibs. oats, 100 Ibs. rye. For roughage, 30 Ibs.
silage, alfalfa as wanted.

300 Ibs. corn-chop, 300 Ibs. oats, 100 Ibs. rye, 100 Ibs. cottonseed meal.
For roughage, 30 Ibs. silage, mixed hay as wanted.

400 Ibs corn-chop, 300 Ibs. bran. For roughage, 30 Ibs. silage, 5 Ibs.
alfalfa hay, 5 Ibs. clover hay.

WESTERN STATES

300 Ibs. corn-chop, 300 Ibs. bran, 200 Ibs. oil meal. For roughage,
timothy and wild prairie hay.

300 Ibs. corn-chop, 300 Ibs. bran, 150 Ibs. oil meal. For roughage, 10
Ibs. hay, 10 Ibs. stover.

400 Ibs corn-chop, 300 Ibs. bran, 100 Ibs. oil meal. For roughage, silage
(30 Ibs. per head), and mixed clover and timothy with some corn stover.

400 Ibs. corn-chop, 300 Ibs. bran, 100 Ibs. cottonseed meal. For rough-
age, 40 Ibs. silage and 5 Ibs. hay.

600 Ibs. oats and barley, 100 Ibs. oil meal, 100 Ibs. cottonseed meal.
For roughage. 20 Ibs. silage, 10 Ibs. timothy hay and corn stover as wanted.

300 Ibs. gluten feed, 400 Ibs. corn-chop, 100 Ibs. bran. For roughage,
30 Ibs. silage, and all the hay wanted.

40 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

300 Ibs. Ajax Flakes, 300 Ibs. corn and cob meal. For roughage, 30
Ibs. silage, 5 to 8 Ibs. clover hay, shredded corn stover as wanted.

300 Ibs. barley (or corn-chop), 200 Ibs. bran, 200 Ibs. oats, 100 Ibs. oil
meal. For roughage, 10 to 15 Ibs. clover and timothy hay mixed, corn stalks
and nubbins as wanted.

300 Ibs. corn and cob meal, 100 Ibs. soybean meal. For roughage, 40
Ibs. turnip, 8 to 10 Ibs. millet hay, corn fodder to pick over.

PACIFIC COAST

600 Ibs. barley, 200 Ibs. bran (feed this 1 Ib. to each 2^ Ibs. milk
yield). For roughage, 10 to 15 Ibs. clover hay.

400 Ibs. barley, 400 Ibs. bran. For roughage, hay, carrots, and pasture
through season, amount not known.

300 Ibs. barley, 300 Ibs. shorts, 100 Ibs. oil meal. For roughage, all the
alfalfa wanted.

300 Ibs. ground barley, 300 Ibs. alfalfa meal with 25 Ibs. roots and
cale, 10 Ibs. mixed hay (clover, timothy, velvet grass).

2. Feeding Beef Cattle

THE BEEF PROBLEM In feeding beef cattle we have a different prob-
lem. Instead of milk, we want beef, liberal in

quantity, and with fat distributed between muscles and fibre rather than
in loose "rough tallow," as it is called by the butcher.

Beef cannot reach top prices for meat that is tender, juicy and tooth-
some unless it has this plentiful "marbling" or intermingling of fat with
fibre, — the distinguishing mark of good beef type.

Part of the beef problem is to get development where we want it, and
not where we don't, — a liberal laying on of expensive future "cuts," but
less cheap neck and wasteful leg bone. Experiments have been variously
made, with corn, wheat, oats and cottonseed meal, linseed oil meal, dis-
tillers' grains, sugarbeet pulp, dry roughage, such as corn stover and
clover, timothy hay, alfalfa, silage, and roots such as cassava, sweet
potatoes, etc.

But the most significant, perhaps in one sense the most expert, tests
in feeding beef cattle were conducted in Great Britain, and reported by
Ingle (1909), covering a period of over seventy years. Of the 200 odd
cases reported we select a few specimens from those given by Prof. Henry.
Rich nitrogenous concentrates were commonly used, such as linseed meal,,
cotton meal, brewers' grains, etc., but a comparatively small quantity, usu-
ally about 6 or 7 Ibs. was fed. Roots were heavily used as is the English
and European custom, which recognizes them as watered concentrates..
A good big portion of straw and hay, this latter cut and mixed with cut
roots and meal, was fed daily, along with a small quantity of cornmeal or
barley. In America we find root feeding expensive; but it is a fair question
today, can we not, as Prof. Henry suggests, get equal results with smaller
allowance of corn and more liberal use of clover and alfalfa hay, and succu-
lent corn silage?

These reports are averaged from tests of from 3 to 10 head of cattle in.
each case. It is probable, as Prof. Henry points out, that the cattle are
usually in good flesh when the British feeder begins, being mature bullocks,,

2 to 5-year-olds. The feeding period is comparatively short, ranging from

3 to 4 months. The average total gain, and the average daily gain, for each
group fed, is given, but not the weights at beginning and end of the period,,
simply the average. Thus:

RIGHT FEEDING

41

Breed

Age

Av.
Weight

Feeding
Period

Average Ration

Av.
Daily
Gain

Av.
Total
Gain

Gal-

Years

Lbs.

Days

Oat Straw 7.0 Ibs.

Lbs.

Lbs.

loways
Ab'rdeen-

2-3

1,003
1,054

100
112

Swedes 150.0 Ibs.

Cottonseed Cake ... 3.0 Ibs.
Oat Straw 8.0 Ibs.

1.4
1.9

143
211

Angus

Mangels 108 8 Ibs.

Linseed Cake 2 4 Ibs

Short-

Corn Meal 2.0 Ibs.

horn

2-5

1,452

98

Straw 14.0 Ibs.
Swedes . . . . 171.0 Ibs.

3.0

292

Cottonseed Cake ... 5.0 Ibs.
Linseed Cake . 3 0 Ibs.

Short-
horn

3

1,326

123

Barley 1.0 Ibs.
Hay 16.2 Ibs.
Swedes 40.5 Ibs.

Peanut Cake 2.7 Ibs.
Oats 2.7 Ibs.

2.4

294

U f A

1OQA

107

Barley 2.7 Ibs.

o o

oqc

Clover Hay . . . . 14.0 Ibs.

Swedes 45.0 Ibs.
Bean Meal 3.0 Ibs.

Oats 3.0 Ibs.
Barley 3.0 Ibs.

Hereford

3

1,261

112

Straw 4.1 Ibs.

2.4

263

Hay 6.9 Ibs.
Swedes 39.5 Ibs.

FATTENING The fattening ration should not be too high in protein; al-
RATION though animals thin at the start should be supplied with

abundant protein to develop muscular tissue in prepara-
tion for fattening. Kellner sug-
gests for this purpose the nutritive
ratio 1 to 6 (see page 25 on nutri-
tive ratio). For mature fattening
cattle the ratio should not vary
much from 1 to 10 or 12. Where
the feeding period covers six
months, avoid getting cattle on full
feed for the first month or six
weeks; for they will not show for
the early expense at the close of
the full feeding term. Corn is by
far the best concentrate for quickly
filling the tissues with fat, and in-
suring a high quality of "marbling"
in the beef. It is therefore, with-
out question, the finest of finishing
materials. Where possible feed it
in the shock. With the addition of Fed right

42

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

nitrogenous roughage, such as clover or alfalfa hay, or a corresponding
concentrate such as linseed or cottonseed meal, the value of the corn is
increased, and the feeding period is shortened.

Note that in some cases absolutely no concentrate was fed, but roots
were used (roots are recognized as "watered concentrate") in heavy quan-
tity, along with straw and hay. These cases are merely typical. It would
be interesting to any feeder to consult and study carefully the full report of
Ingle.

If instead of clover or alfalfa roughage, timothy, sorghum, or kafir
corn must be substituted, add 2 or 3 pounds of concentrate like cottonseed
meal or linseed, to make up the deficiency. Steers finishing with corn,
but on pasture, might have the rich linseed meal (2 or 3 pounds) added to
their ration during the last two months of the finishing term. Fattening
gains usually cost about l/4 more per day in winter than in summer. Most
feeders feed grain and roughage twice a day in winter; and in summer,
grain once a day.

Here are three specimen rations vouchsafed for by Prof. Linklater
of Oklahoma College: —

Rations for l,OOO-lb. Fattening Steer

FEED

IH

<U

&1

oS

Protein

Carbohy-
drates

td

fa

Nutritive
Ratio

FEED

*J

QS

Protein

Carbohy-
drates

at
fe

Nutritive
Ratio

Feeding Standard
RATION No. 1.
Prairie hay— 10 Ibs.
Sorghum fodder —

o itT

Lbs.
30.00

9.44

Lbs.
2.5

0.37

Lbs.
15.00

4.36

Lbs.
0.5

0.09

1:6.5

Feeding Standard
RATION No. 2.
Alfafa— 18 Ibs. . .
Corn— 10 Ibs. . . .

Lbs.
30.00

16.49
8.91

Lbs.
2.5

1.98
0.75

Lbs.
15.00

7.13

6.67

Lbs.
0.5

0.22
0.43

1:6.5

Corn— 10 Ibs. . . .
Cottonseed meal—
3 Ibs. .

8.91
2.75

0.79
1.11

6..07
1.50

0.43
0.37

RATION No. 3.
C'ns'd hulls— 20 Ibs.

24.40
1778

2.77
0.06

13.80
66?

0.65
0.34

1:5.2

4 59

1 86

0 84

0 61

00 CA

0 AO

ic ny

A qc

1 -7

22.37

1.92

7.46

0.95

1:5

WATER The water supply should be pure and abundant, not less than
10 gallons a day for each head of cattle.

SALT Salt is a necessity to animals under heavy feeding. On the whole,
tests indicate advantage in keeping salt before them all the time,
as then they will net take an over quantity. Page 46 we show how to mix
a medicated stock salt (9 parts common barrel salt to 1 part Conkey's Stock
Tonic) at a cost of less than 2*/2 cents a pound. This mixture should be kept
where the stock can help themselves any time. It not only prevents indiges-
tion, but aids in keeping stock worm-free. It also wards off many danger-
ous diseases and acts as a general conditioner.

A TAXING Fattening is a taxing process. Read again the comment on
PROCESS digestion and palatability. Be prepared 'to find fattening
cattle slowing down after a few weeks of the fattening pro-
gram,— not relishing their food so fully as at first, and not making uniform
gains. Fattening is an unnatural process; and it takes the feeder's wits
to get the upperhand cf old nature. Read again the comments on Stock
Tonic (see index), and make sure you get the worth of the fattening feed
by mixing with it this tonic and appetizer. The animal's crowded paunch
is a tax on his powers. Notice his audible breathing. The absorptive
powers of the tissue are being taxed to their utmost. It is necessary to
come to the aid of nature. Conkey's Stock Tonic is an alterative and

RIGHT FEEDING

43

appetizer. It is an excellent tonic, and acts directly on the walls of
the blood vessels, — increasing their contractile power and thus invigorating
circulation. While the dose should be only ^2 tablespoon in the feed twice
daily the first two days, after that it should be increased to 1 full tablespoon-
ful at each feeding. Full directions are given on the package. There is no
danger in the use of this Stock Tonic. It is scientifically compounded of
pure drugs, each a specific. It is already mixed, in virgin dry state,— net
contaminated and made expensive by the addition of a useless "filler."

The fattening process is an expensive one; and it is necessary for
the beef grower to cut it down to as short a time as safely profitable,
and thus to help out nature, if he expects to get the worth of his time,
investment and labor.

CALVES Calves destined for the butcher should be fed whole milk from
the dams, but not more than 2 quarts three times a day, lest
indigestion and scouring follow. As the calf grows, increase gradually,
but feed sparingly the first month. The calf should be taught to eat solid
food, such as shelled corn, whole oats, wheat bran, oilmeal, hay, etc.,
before ever weaned, simply by rubbing the mouth with some grain after
each milk meal. Do net put grain in the milk, for it will be swallowed
without chewing. The calf has good grinders, and at 4 to 6 weeks can
do its own grinding. After weaning it can be put at once on regular
ration of the above feeds, with alfalfa hay or clover. All calves are justly
entitled to clover; and if there is any shortage, they should not be the

animals to suffer. In summer the grain ration can be cut down, and the
animal put on pasture of white clover and blue grass or alfalfa. There
is nothing like grass for fleshmaking. In winter, silage or roots will keep
these youngsters sappy and growing. In cases where the whole milk
cannot be spared for the calves skim milk may be substituted, with lower
though satisfactory gains in development. Corn meal or some fattening
grain should be used with a skim milk ration.

Of course a calf intended to grace the dairy should not be crowded,
but simply fed for normal sturdy development. Never let a dairy type

44

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

calf go above 2 Ibs. of grain daily, which is the very limit. Too heavy
fattening feed will tend to change the type entirely; and instead of a
dairy beauty, you'll have a young beef to fit for market.

A CONKEY CALF To make a sturdy calf, add to the ration a scant
dose of Conkey's Stock Tonic. Just a little will be

enough, say twice daily a half-tablespoonful to three or four youngsters.
The Stock Tonic will destroy worms; and as a tonic and appetizer will
insure full body development from the food taken into the young animal's
stomach. This is a time when you want to watch for every possible gain.
A young calf will make better gains for grain than an older calf, and should
have all it will eat.

The uniformly fine and safe results from the moderate use of the Stock
Tonic with young animals, calves, lambs, etc., is a positive test of its
freedom from dangerous drugs, and guarantees its safety for more or
less continuous periods as a conditioner for any animal.

BABY BEEF It takes two to make good baby beef — a feeder who is
a specialist at it, and a good specimen of a beef breed.
Both feeder and calf must do their part. Buyers show a strong liking
for choice light yearling stock, that
is, "baby beef," as against heavy-
weight but long fed steers; and
after all your trouble with the lat-
ter, getting them choice and
smoothly finished, the price is apt
to be lower than it should be; while
"baby beef" is a specialty worth
any man's attention.

GREGORY'S Gregory's experi-
CALF ment at Iowa Col-

lege developed an
800 Ib. calf in one year, treating as
follows: After the first suckling, the
calf was taken from the cow, but
for two weeks received the cow's
milk whole, then changed to skim
milk gradually. For first month
about 4 quarts were allowed to a
feed, then raised to 6 quarts.
Ground corn and oats, or bran and
ground corn, were allowed soon as
the calf could eat grain. During
an attack of scours blood flour (Iteaspoonful) was allowed with the milk;
blood flour was recommended for unthrifty calves. For roughage this calf
had clover or alfalfa.

Making good "Baby Beef"

KENNEDY'S CALF Everybody has heard of Prof. Kennedy's calf,
Shamrock II, Grand Champion steer of the 1910

International. An Aberdeen Angus, calved January 10, 1910, according
to the record, he was taken to Iowa State Agricultural College May 1.
At that time he weighed 346 Ibs. He was put on a nurse cow, and allowed
the run of a grass lot at night, keeping to the barn during the day. Up'
to September 1 he was fed good clover hay, all he would eat (the state

RIGHT FEEDING 45

paid), and a grain ration of 3 parts corn, 2 parts wheat bran and 1 part
oil meal. Weight September 1, was 822 Ibs. He was then put on two nurse
cows, fed green corn, stalks and ears, clover hay and roots, with boiled
wheat and oats for grain. On October 1 he weighed 941 pounds; Novem-
ber 1, 1,060 pounds. During this month he was eating from nine to
eleven pounds a day of the cooked feed, about twenty-five pounds a day
of roots and five pounds of clover hay, in addition to the milk of the
nurse cows. He never missed a feed from May 1 until sold in Chicago;
and never appeared the least bit nervous or restless.

He weighed December 1 when sold at auction 1,120 pounds and
brought the show price (of course a fancy price) of 60c per pound,
netting $672, the second highest price on record.

This development was phenomenal, but one rather expects the phenom-
enal when a calf is sent to college and given all possible early advantages.
The lesson is plain. It "takes two things to make a baby beef," breeding
and feeding.

Look around. Maybe on your place there is some promising young-
ster. Maybe you yourself can show something as good as Kennedy's calf.

3. Feeding the Horse

TIMOTHY— OATS It's little we give the horse— that is little variety.

Timothy hay for roughage, oats for concen-
trates-— that's the usual menu in most horse mangers.

Of course the roughage varies with the section — in the south maybe
a horse would be given corn blades, on the western coast mostly barley
or alfalfa; in some western sections, prairie grass. But on the whole
there is a limited variety, and all in all, timothy is the leader.

CLOVER — ALFALFA Timothy has good fuel value, and lots of energy;
but clover and alfalfa are also excellent, if not

fed too liberally. A good plan is to combine clover hay and timothy,
making a substantial, not too bulky roughage. Oats, with these, make a
combination of all the needed elements. Oats are bulky as grain; so
when oats are fed less hay is needed.

FEEDING POINTERS Most horses get more hay than is good for them.
Hay is bulky and 'distends the digestive organs.

Feed enough and just that. More only hinders, and much more is pos-
itively dangerous.

Never feed musty hay. The fine mold is sure to get into the lungs
and windpipe, and set up disorders. If dusty, sprinkle the hay in the
manger, so that the dust will not seriously affect the animal in breathing.

Some feeders don't stop to consider that the horse's stomach is small.
If he is fed grain first, then a bulky ration of hay, then watered, clearly
all this cannot find place in the stomach at once, and the most important
nutritive first part of the meal is pushed out before fully acted upon by
the stomach.

Water first, then feed a little hay, and then the concentrated grain
part of the ration. Besides, feeding grain first encourages bolting, as the
horse is usually hungry. Hay cannot be so easily bolted.

Mixed grains have a better value than the same grains fed separately.
This seems to be true with all animals.

46 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

The teeth of the horse are very important, as they perform the first
process of digestion. If too irregular the food cannot be masticated prop-
erly and the animal loses a good part of the starch value. The stomach
has no power to act on starch elements, and the intestines are taxed for the
whole work of digestion.

BONE AND When you feed a horse, you are feeding for bone and
MUSCLE muscle. For this the very best choice is blue grass pas-

ture and oats. But all the legumes, such as alfalfa, clover,
cow peas, etc., make highly nutritious roughage, rich in substance for
bone and muscle. Among the concentrated feeds, choose from such val-
uable ones as wheat bran, linseed meals, buckwheat midlings, cow peas,
soy beans, Canadian field peas, etc. In the case of a young horse, if you
think he is not making proper bone, give him a little good tankage
(flesh meal by-product from the slaughter-house) — a few ounces daily; or
an ounce of ground bone or ground rock phosphate.

THE COLT The colt should have special feeding attention, for the right
start means a future good animal. After the first week
(during which feed the dam a little sparingly), both dam and colt can go
on pasture. When the dam is fed grain, put her feed box low enough for
the colt also. He will nose it, nibble, and soon learn to eat grain himself
Then by the age of five months when the youngster is weaned, there will
be no setback. At weaning time, remember the colt has been used to
getting food from the dam often; so keep a good supply of mixed feed,
corn, oats, bran moistened down with a little water. With this in the feed
trough all the time, good water and pasture, the little fellows will get
over the hard break in their habits and suffer no dangerous setback.

Never begrudge grain to the colt. Up to 1 year give a grain allowance
of 2 to 3 Ibs. daily; from 1 to 2 years give 4 to 5 Ibs.

THE STALLION The stallion needs good sound oats, varied with corn
or barley. Wheat bran should be added to his grain

ration; for it is one of the best regulators and also rich in nutritive ele-
ments. Feed only what will be eaten with relish, and any left over
immediately take out of the feedbox. See that all hay is bright and clean.

Conkey's Stock Tonic is successfully used for stallions, because it
acts as a regulator of the body functions, insures full digestion of the
food taken into the stomach, stimulates the walls of the blood vessels to
proper activity; hence increases circulation, quickly repairs the wasted
tissue, and carries away the refuse of dead cells, energy poisons, etc. We
do not advise its use all the time. It is not itself a feed, simply a
tonic, alterant and general regulator. When, however, it is used in small
quantities as the medical element in a general stock salt according to the
formula below, it can be safely put before the stallion all the time. He
will take it according to his natural horse sense of what is needed for his
requirements. You can trust him not to overdose himself, provided you let
him have access to it all the time.

FORMULA FOR Take 90 Ibs. barrel salt and 10 Ibs. Conkey's Stock
STOCK SALT Tonic. Mix thoroughly, and put where each animal

can help itself. Keep dry. A pound of this mixture
will last a horse about two weeks, ordinarily.

RIGHT FEEDING 47

THE BROOD MARE The brood mare is best kept on pasture. Of
course if pasture is insufficient, grain should be

added. Brood mares need bulk and not concentrate, and their feed should
give plenty of crude protein arid bone making material. Bran is helpful,
especially near time of foaling, as it keeps the bowels in open condition.

The brood mare can safely have donkey's Stock Tonic mixed with her
regular feed according to directions, giving her this tonic treatment every
few weeks during gestation, to improve the blood and regulate the body
functions. Or, a simpler way would be to mix up a regular tonic salt as
follows and leave it before her all the time:

90 Ibs. common barrel salt,

10 Ibs. Conkey's Stock Tonic.

Mix thoroughly, and keep dry, and leave it where the animal can get
at it any time. The brood mare will not overdose herself if she is given
access to this salt preparation all the time. She will simply take it as she
needs it; and no veterinarian could tell better than she herself just what
she needs and when she needs it. This cheaply mixed Stock Salt will aid
in keeping her whole system in fine condition; that is, well nourished and
with no strain on digestion; in fact, it will insure digestion, which means
all the rich bounding blood needed to manufacture the young animal's
body as well as to maintain the dam in good strength and function.

THE TROTTER The trotter, in winter, should go on half ration —
to keep out of danger of fat around the heart and on

the intestines. Good clean hay, and a few carrots occasionally make a
good roughage. Of course when out in the field during winter, oats twice
a day will be necessary for body heat. In spring, when shedding, bran
mashes are in order. The bran is better than flaxfeed meal, which would
tend to relax the system suddenly. As he begins his season's training, be
should have 8 to 10 quarts a day with less roughage but always as much
hay as he will eat up with relish, and none left over. No corn, no carrots.
1 .c!~ n:r"h, say, once a week to keep the digestive tract open. As fast
work commences, make more liberal feeding allowance, 12 to 13 quarts
rrirjr the usual good average. Oats is the one best feed for the trotter,
where expense is not any consideration. The trotter in winter will hardly
need the pure Stock Tonic treatment. But we advise that he have regular
access to a special veterinary salt made up as follows. This will serve
as a mild appetizer and regulator; and when he can get it just when he
wants it there is no danger of his taking too much:

90 Ibs. common salt,

10 Ibs. Conkey's Stock Tonic.

Mix thoroughly, and keep in a dry place, where the animal can get it
any time. But when the trotter begins his season's training, be sure to
put him on regular treatment with Conkey's Stock Tonic, for about two
weeks. Then again, as fast work commences, give him Conkey's Stock
Tonic to take care of the extra demand on digestion and the heavier
feeding ration.

THE CARRIAGE The carriage horse should also have oats as the main

HORSE ration. Nothing like oats to give the carriage horse

mettle. A little barley or rolled wheat with bran

will give variety; 8 to 10 quarts is the proper average, the best feed being
at night. Of course add roughage, usually, long hay, as the carriage
horse can take plenty of time for his munching. Don't feed too much
hay bulk. When not exercised each day, bran mash morning and night
will be best, with the oats for the noon mid-feeding.

48 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

The carriage horse should have occasional tonic treatment with Con-
key's Stock Tonic. His concentrated diet calls for just such a digestive
aid, as well as a tonic and regulator. The carriage horse should always*
have access to a veterinary salt made up as follows:

10 Ibs. Conkey's Stock Tonic,

90 Ibs. common barrel salt.

Mix thoroughly, keep in a dry place, where the horse can help himself
just when he wants it. He will not overeat it, when it is before him all
the time.

THE WORK The work horse usually has years of usefulness; perhaps
HORSE on account of his regular working and regular feeding.

10 to 18 Ibs. of concentrates make perhaps the best ration.
Work horses need more concentrates and less roughage. Some horsemen
do not consider it best to feed work horses at mid day. Of course, if so
fed, only concentrates should be given. Never feed the work horse heavily
on days when it is compelled to stand idle, or paralysis or some similar
disorder will follow. Rich concentrated food is the ration for the hard
worked horse, because more easily and quickly digested. For light work,
lighten the concentrates and increase the roughage.

The work horse, with his concentrated ration, and -heavy tax on diges-
tion, should always have before him a special salt made up as follows:

90 Ibs. common barrel salt,

10 Ibs. Conkey's Stock Tonic.

He will help himself just as he needs it, if it is kept before him all
the time (in a dry place). Try this economical easy plan of letting the
work animal be his own "hoss doctor." Watch him carefully. He usually
gets along better than his less useful horse brethren. But watch for
slight disorders, and correct them before they grow serious. In case of
digestive trouble or functional disorder due to strain of digestive powers,
or to internal parasites, or to poor circulation, immediately put the animal
on regular treatment with Stock Tonic, which will bring him around to
normal quickly.

SOME PRACTICAL Here are some selected rations that have proved
RATIONS successful with horses variously bred and used,

and in various sections:

For Colts (trotting bred) :

Weaning time — Oats, 2 Ibs.; hay, unlimited.
One-year-old — Oats, 4 Ibs.; hay, unlimited.
Two-year-old — Oats, 6 Ibs.; hay, unlimited.

In Training:

Two-year-old — Oats, 8 Ibs.; hay, unlimited.
Three-year-old — Oats, 8 to 12 Ibs.; hay, unlimited.

Race Horse:

Oats, 15 Ibs.; hay, 6 to 8 Ibs.

Hack:

Oats, 8 Ibs.; hay, 12 Ibs.
Carriage (light work) :

Oats, 16 Ibs.; hay, 12 Ibs.
Draft (heavy work) :

Oats, 13 Ibs.; horse beans, 6 Ibs.; corn, 3 Ibs.; chaffed clover hay, 15 Ibs.

RIGHT FEEDING

49

Farm Horses:

At light work— Oats, 8 to 10 Ibs.; hay, 6 to 9 Ibs.; straw, 3 Ibs.
At medium work — Oats, 10 Ibs.; hay, 10 Ibs.; straw, 3 Ibs.
At heavy work — Oats, 13 Ibs.; hay, 12 Ibs.; straw, 3 Ibs.
Draft Horses (1,600 Ibs. wt.) at heavy work:
Summer — Oats, 19 Ibs.; hay, 13 Ibs.

Winter — Oats, \2l/2 Ibs.; hay, 10 Ibs.; corn, 6^4 Ibs.; ground grain, 4 Ibs.
Farm Horses (various tests) :

New Hampshire — Bran, 2 Ibs.; corn, 6 Ibs.; gluten meal, 6 Ibs.; hay,

10 Ibs.
Massachusetts — Oats, 3.3 Ibs.; crushed corn, 2.7 Ibs.; provender, 6 Ibs.;

wheat bran, 2 Ibs.; hay, 18 Ibs.
New Jersey — Corn meal, 6.3 Ibs.; dried brewers' grains, 6.2 Ibs.; hay)

8 Ibs.
Utah (1)— Bran and shorts (1:1) 12.6 Ibs.; alfalfa hay, 16 Ibs.

(2) — Oats, 12 Ibs.; timothy hay, 13 Ibs.
Michigan:

Morning — Oat straw, 5 Ibs.; carrots, 4 Ibs.; ear corn, 3 Ibs.
Noon — Timothy hay, 4 Ibs.; oats, 2 Ibs.

Night — Shredded corn stalk, 8 Ibs.; carrots, 4 Ibs.; mixture of beet
pulp, bran and oil cake, 2 Ibs.

4. Feeding Sheep

THE BRITISH Can we hope to rival British mutton? Feed experts
METHOD say the difference is mainly due to the difference in

treatment of the flocks. The British flock is kept in a
condition of content and plenty. Compare them with what you know to
be average conditions for sheep in this country! Often the point of view
here is to see how little we need feed the flock. We boast of sheep as
plant scavengers on the farm and let them go, nibbling, nibbling, close
and closer cropping, — grasses, shrubs, roots, cereal grain, leaves, twigs,
bark of trees all disappear before them. Weeds and brush are quickly
cleaned up from waste land and neglected corners. The sheep will stand
it, do pretty well on it, but so long as we count on sheep for this sort of
farm help, we must not expect the results which follow the liberal English
system.

The English flock owner does not try to see how little he need feed
his sheep. He works to see what system of- feeding will most benefit his
pocket. He doesn't call a feed expensive if he knows it produces. For
instance, oil cake and roots are well-nigh universal feed stuffs among
British sheep men. From 95 to 100 Ibs. of roots are fed per week, per
100 Ibs. of live weight.

Here are three specimen cases of British feeding rations, with daily and
total gains on average:

No. of
Animals

No. of
Days

Breed

Average Ration

Average
Weight

Av. Daily
Gain

Av. Total
Gain

20
8

102
121

Oxford
Cotswold

f Linseed cake . . . 0.3 Ib.
J Barley 0.3 Ib.
Hay 0.4 Ib.
Swedes 22.9 Ibs.
(Cotton-seed cake . . .1.6 Ibs.
KHay 1.0 Ib.

128
132

0.43
0.33

42
41

38

93

Half-bred

( Roots 15. Ibs.
f Bombay cotton cake . . 0.3 Ib. ~|
J Dried distillers' grains . 0.3 Ib. 1
1 Hay . . . 0.4 Ib. f

119

0.40

36

[Swedes 13. Ibs.J

50 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

SHEEP FEEDING Grinding grain for a sheep is almost ridiculous.
POINTS If he is a good sheep he is a good grist mill, — and

if neither, he isn't worth feeding. Grain and rough-
age should not be fed together, — first the grain, then the rough-
age, then water. The grain trough must be clean of course and big
enough to give each animal a show, about 15 inches for each. The
feeding racks for roughage should be large enough to hold roughage enough
for several days. Don't make the mistake of routing your sheep out for
breakfast too early — no need to hurry them; they'll do better if you let
their breakfast go until after daybreak.

THE LAMBS It is well to accustom the lambs to a little grain. The
same old rule seems to hold with all animals, — grain gives
most thrifty gains when fed early. When about two weeks old the lambs
will commence nibbling and should then be fitted out with a lamb-creep —
a special enclosure running off from the ewe's enclosure. Let the little
lambs go back and forth as they please, to and from their mothers. In
the lamb-creep have a drinking trough especially for them, and some meal,
such as corn meal, ground oats, etc. They will get a little on their muzzles,
experiment again, and by and by develop a taste for it. Don't let it lie
around to get musty and stale, as it soon will do after it is ground.
Just feed enough each time so they will eat it all up with relish and
thankfulness.

See that water is in the trough, so they can get it just as they want
it. You may surprise yourself seeing how much little lambs will drink if
you just let them. Get over the idea that milk is enough "drink" for
lambs, or even human babies. These little fellows get thirsty, and there
is only one thing that will satisfy thirst — pure water.

Accustom them to pasture gradually, — this is the rule for all animals.
After pasture, grain feeding is dropped for the ewes; but another "lamb
creep" must run out from the pasture, and there should still be a little
grain in the lamb creep to supply the little friskers. Oat, bran or cornmeal
are the usual meals used for this purpose. Oats and bran are excellent
for development.

By four months the lambs should be thoroughly weaned and separated
from the ewes. Then they should be put on new pasture. Always give
them the best, — if any clover, let them have that. On clean new pasture
they will gain rapidly and not run great risk from stomach worms.
Stomach worms are sure to attack them if allowed to run with the old
flock, and you will have to fight the worms with Conkey's Stock Tonic or
lose your little sheep. Read what is said below about the home-mixed
stock salt — for use with sheep. Even little lambs can safely have access to
this anti-parasite mixture and it will counteract the great danger from
letting them run with the old infested sheep.

Don't forget to keep up the grain ration for the lambs, however, even
if on excellent pasture. You want those big economical gains which
come from early grain feeding.

NEED OF A We have spoken of roots and their special value as a
REGULATOR tonic and regulator.

In Conkey's Stock Tonic we have a compound,

chiefly ground roots, of medicinal value. Mixed with the regular feed this
can be used, and will give a root-tonic effect right along with the feeding.
In fact Stock Tonic is particularly adapted to sheep, as, in addition to
other qualities it has in it certain ingredients which act as worm destroyers.

RIGHT FEEDING

51

Sheep need regular treatment with such a vermifuge; for worms are the
great sheep parasite. Less than *4 tablespoonful is needed for each sheep.

THE EWE The breeding ewe in winter should have a carefully selected
ration, one that will keep her gaining about a quarter pound
a day. Too much grain is fattening, but a half pound of some good con-
centrate, fed with 2 Ibs. of mixed hay and from 2 to 3 Ibs. of corn silage,
corn forage or roots, will do nicely and cost about 2 cents per day on the
average. Keep digestion perfect by occasional tonic treatment with
Conkey's Stock Tonic. Conkey's Stock Tonic added to the regular feed
always makes it more palatable.

"FLUSHING" English shepherds make a practice of "flushing" ewes
before breeding. This means, feeding the ewes with extra
rations, high in nutrition, and extra pleasing to the appetite. This is kept
up for two or three weeks before breeding; and it is claimed that ewes
bred in this condition are more likely to produce twins at lambing. With
mutton breeds these extra lambs are always profitable, with little expense
in fitting them for early market.

THE RAM The ram should have good, nourishing feed, with plenty of
protein, and not too much carbohydrates. Don't let him get
fat. Give him muscle-making feed, and keep him up in constitutional vigor.
Investigate Conkey's Stock Tonic for just this purpose. Give him an occa-
sional bracer of Conkey's Stock Tonic mixed with his regular feed and it
will keep him in active condition.

PRACTICAL A generally accepted feeding standard for fattening sheep,
RATIONS per 100 Ibs. live weight, is 3 Ibs. of dry matter with a nutri-

tive ratio of 1 to 5. On this basis below are given some
specimen rations, which come up fairly well to this good standard.

Feed

Dry Matter
Lbs.

Protein
Lbs.

Carbohy-
drates
Lbs.

Fat
Lbs.

Nutritive
Ratio

Alfalfa hay— 2 Ibs. . . .

1.83

00.22

0.79

00.02

Corn— 1 Ib

0.89

00.08

0.67

00.04

'

2.72

00.30

1.46

00.06

1:4.3

Prairie hay — 2 Ibs.

1.89

00.07

0.87

00.02

Kafir corn — 1 Ib

0.85

00.08

0.57

00.03

Cottonseed meal — 1-5 Ib. . . .

0.23

00.09

0.04

00.03

2.97

00.24

1.48

00.08

1:7

Corn silage — 2 Ibs

0.21

00.01

0.11

00.01

Alfalfa hay— 2 Ibs.

183

0022

079

0002

Kafir corn — 1 Ib

0.85

00.08

0.57

00.03

2.89

00.31

1.47

00.06

1:5.2

Whatever the ration, remember that a good medicated stock salt will
help to get the most out of it, increasing palatability and fuller digestion.
There is no need to pay extravagant prices for such a preventive and

52 CQNKEY'S STOCK BOOK

conditioner. With little trouble and a cost of less than 2l/2c a pound
you can make your own mixture:

90 Ibs. barrel salt.

10 Ibs. Conkey's Stock Vigor.

Mix thoroughly and keep in a dry place, but where the sheep can help
themselves anytime. You can estimate 1 pound of this mixture for every
sheep for a period of 10 to 12 weeks. It will correct ordinary digestive
troubles, and act as a worm destroyer and preventive of many internal
parasites. It will actually ward off disease. Sheep need salt. Try this easy
and inexpensive Conkey way of salting them, and see how it cuts down
losses and improves your flock.

5. Feeding Swine

EARLY GAINS Swine are no exception to the rule already stated, that

grain fed early brings the biggest proportion of profit.
At the Wisconsin station experiments with 18 pigs of good feeding
powers, on a ration of wheat middlings 1 part, ground corn 2 parts (salt
and woodash in addition, of course), during a test of 12 weeks, the biggest
and cheapest gains were made early. Gains made in the last four weeks
of this test cost fully one-third more than gains of the first four weeks
of the period.

WHAT MAKES Wheat is in the first rank for feeding pigs. It tends to
FIRM BACON? a firm product and plenty of lean meat. But wheat is
expensive, except in wheat growing sections, although it
is proved that frosted wheat is just as effective as the first quality. Barley
also ranks high for feeding for bacon, with oats and peas next in order.
Under ideal conditions barley, peas and pats, with pasteurized dairy
products, some corn, especially at the finishing period, make up the best
feeding standard.

Firm bacon is the product of such feeds as barley, blood meal, bran,
clover hay, wheat, oats, oatmeal, rye, shorts, turnips, distillers' grain,
tankage, skim-milk, whole milk and whey. Skim-milk and whey, fed
always with grains such as corn, make a solid firm product. Exercise also
helps to make this firmness.

CORN THE Pigs fairly well fed and given good care up to 100 Ibs.
FINISHER can then be quickly finished off into fine bacon with a
mixture of various meals. Corn is above all the "finisher."
Corn as a feed is good at any time, and always relished by the porkers;
but whenever it makes up more than one-half the feed stuff it tends to
less firmness of flesh and too much fat shoulder. Soft pork in general
is produced by such feeds as buckwheat, table refuse, corn and gluten
feeds, while skim-milk added to these corrects this tendency. But corn
is especially good in cold seasons.

THE GROWING For instance, in summer a good combination for
STOCK growing stock would be clover, bran, shorts, possibly

some oil-meal, supplemented later by succulent pump-
kin and squash for the brood sow after her pigs are weaned. Then as the
cooler season approaches corn can be added and used more and more
liberally, finishing, rounding, supplying necessary body-heat, so that the
pigs can make the best growth out of the good conditions provided. Young

RIGHT FEEDING

growing stock need nitrogenous and mineral matter; and that is why
corn should never be too liberal a part of the early feeding. Nitrogenous
matter for body tissue, and lime for bone development, can be found in
such feeds as alfalfa, clover, vetch, soy bean, cow peas, peanuts, etc., — in
short, the legume crops, which have such wonderful value. Of all forage
crops alfalfa is one of the most important. It is estimated that 5 Ibs of
alfalfa will about equal 3 Ibs. of mixed grain,

THE HOG A Grazing is the cheapest feeding system. For modern
GRAZER profitable hog raising, a combination of grazing and feed-

ing makes always the most economical system, carrying
the growing pigs nicely over the summer, ready to fatten. Along with
alfalfa, for a cheap pasture, rape is coming more and more into recogni-
tion. It is best sown in drills 30 inches apart, and allowed to get a foot
high. Some grain should be fed in connection with it.

CORN PLUS Prof. Henry, of Wisconsin, preaches a larger use of legume
crops, rape and roots, which make a cheap growing
ration. A little corn could be added; but liberal corn should come
at finishing only. Prof. Henry makes a strong plea for more
pigs on this basis: alfalfa, clover, Canada peas, cow peas, soy beans,
peanuts, rape, roots, etc., can be raised so much cheaper than corn; and
besides this, roots and legume crops greatly enrich the soil, thus lessening
the first cost to the farmer. Such crops are better suited to growing
stock, for they insure fuller development of bone and body, — in short a
frame ready at full term for the "finishing touches" of King Corn. Why
should we limit our pork output by the amount of corn available for
feeding, when instead, we could estimate on corn plus all such crops as
alfalfa, clover, cow peas, soy beans, rape, roots, etc.? The market is
waiting for more pork products.

SLOP FEED Swine like their meals sloppy. Slop is usually the prin-
cipal feed; and most raisers advise plenty of liquid in the
trough, whatever the ration. However, the experiment station tests have
not yet shown any advantage in slop feeding over dry grain. Of course
the swine should have plenty of water, even with slop feeding. Make
sure the water is pure, and in winter warm it slightly.

Table slop that is fresh is an excellent and an economical feed for
hogs; but care must be taken to keep it free from soapy dishwater and
other dangerous refuse. Lye and soap powders strong in sal soda cause
many mysterious epidemics, — in some cases mistaken for cholera. There
is always this danger in feeding hotel slop, which in addition to alkali
may contain such dangerous substances as broken glass, crockery, strings,
paper, etc. Another caution is to be sure to feed it fresh, as sour, fer-
mented swill is a standing invitation to intestinal disease.

TUBERCULAR Similarly, care must be taken with creamery by-pro-
DANGER ducts. If positively pasteurized there is no danger; but

if not, your swine are very liable to tubercular infection.
Also, if hogs follow tubercular cattle they are pretty sure to become in-
fected. It pays to let hogs follow the cattle, — in fact it is a low estimate to
say 100 Ibs. of shelled corn fed to steers will produce 4 Ibs. of pork on hogs
following them; but make sure that the cattle are tested, and free from
tuberculosis.

54 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

MINERALS Whatever the ration, we must keep in mind the fact that
NEEDED the hog is a rooter, and that a prime necessity to his body

is the mineral substance he gets in rooting. When rooting
is interfered with, his daily ration must include the mineral correctives so
essential to his big body. Don't let the hogs on your place tear down
the crumbling masonry for the sake of the brick and mortar. Give them
ashes, charcoal, air-slacked lime, bone-meal and ground rock phosphorous.
Pigs also need some salt, — not much but at least one ounce a day. Salt
should never be put in their feed; but a salt mixture should be before them
all the time, so that they can help themselves. Salt is not only an appe-
tizer, but it wards off digestive troubles that might easily result in
:serious disorders. Try a mixture of Conkey's Veterinary Salt, made up
according to directions, using common salt from your own salt barrel
.and mixing with every nine pounds a pound of Conkey's Stock Tonic
This will give you a general conditioner, safe to use all the year round,
without danger of injuring the hogs but practically insuring against
worms, and many forms of intestinal disease. The cost would be less than
2^c a pound, and the medical, appetizing, tonic effects of the mixture
would be greater than any commercial medicated salt now on the market.
Less than 2l/2c. a pound! You can judge for yourself the saving.

FOR THE Give her a plentiful ration, as there are heavy demands

BROOD SOW on her. She should have cooling and laxative foods,
hence not much corn. For a few days before farrowing,
•do not feed anything, but give the sow plenty of agreeable warm water.
After this, feed mainly thin slop of oats, shorts and bran, but no corn.
'Clover and alfalfa cut or ground and mixed with the slop will be relished.
.After the third day the critical period is over, and the sow can be brought
igradually back to a full substantial ration — all she will be able to digest.
Do not give her any sour milk or sour slop. A good milk making ration is
•wheat bran, shorts and skim-milk, — good for the old sow and good for the
pigs to experiment with in preparation for weaning.

Don't forget occasional tonic treatment with Conkey's Stock Tonic
to keep digestion perfect and all functions normal.

FOR THE BOAR For a good young 50 Ib. herd boar to make the
largest possible growth, and not injure breeding qual-
ities, one authority recommends the following ration: corn and bran,
mixed half and half by weight; or, one-third corn, one-third bran and one-
third oats. If it is necessary to raise the corn to two-thirds, use one-third
bran and add a little oil meal. Corn tends to fatten and must not be
overfed the herd boar, or it will fill up the organs. The herd boar is
always benefited by Conkey's Stock Tonic treatment. The herd boar
in particular needs to get every ounce of benefit from the digestible
nutrients in his ration. The root ingredients in Stock Tonic tone and
invigorate the system, and fit it for all drains upon it. It acts directly on
the walls of the blood vessels, increasing their contractile power, which
means better circulation. Of all animals the herd boar needs good, pure
blood, and that perfect condition which is the foundation of breeding
profits. Conkey's Stock Tonic is the short, scientific cut to vigorous
breeding condition.

t.

SPECIMEN RATIONS For fattening and finishing for market here
FOR FATTENING are two good specimen rations well liked in

the corn belt:

RIGHT FEEDING

55

Rations for 2OO-lb. Fattening Hog

FEED

Dry Matter
Lbs.

Protein
Lbs.

Carbohy-
drates
Lbs.

Fat
Lbs.

Nutritive
Ratio

Feeding Standard
RATION No. 1
Corn— 7 Ibs
Tankage— 1 Ib

6.4

6.24
.93

.8

.55
.32

4.8

4.67
.15

.1

.30
.14

1:6.3

RATION No. 2
Kafir corn — 8 Ibs.

7.17
6.78

.87
62

4.82
457

.44
22

1:6.7

Cottonseed meal — ^ 1L

.46

.19

.08

.06

If necessary to feed all corn, estimate
8 Ibs. to 200 Ibs. fattening hog, making
the following analysis :

RATION No. 3
Corn — 8 Ibs

7.24
7.13

.81
.63

4.65
533

.28
34

1:6.5
1-86

Home Made Self-feeder

56

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

HORSES
I. Raising Good Animals

A GOOD horse: That means good breeding, good feeding, good care,
good training.
High price never stands in the way of a purchaser, if the
animal is worth it.

A good horse is good anywhere and good all over. But no one seems
to want these nondescript animals so many farm owners are thoughtlessly
raising.

OLD DOBBIN The old type of farm horse was
sluggish and slow, fit for tough
sod, stones and the stumps of pioneer clearings.
Today, on our better farms, there is no place for
Old Faithful and his quality of flesh and spirit.

TAKE IT Today as Secretary Wilson

FROM WILSON points out, the most eco-
nomical way of raising good

horses is right on the farm in connection with
ordinary farm work. The farmer who raises
horses, i. e., good horses, gets two profits (1) a
profit in labor and (2) a profit in breeding. For
look: Three brood mares will do the work of
two geldings. In addition, the colts will easily
pay for their own and their mothers' feed. Colts

of stocky draft breed can pay part keep while they are learning to work on
the farm, thus earning their way ''through school" the same as an ambitious
boy at college. Many farmers now urge getting rid of the geldings, and
putting good brood mares in their stead. The horse on the farm is put to
real work only about a third of the time, and on this basis, the high cost
and keep of the gelding hardly pays the farmer. Let the cities have him!

Old Dobbin

RAISING HORSES __ 57

HONK, HONK! In spite of the automobile the horse is still king-
statistics show it. He is the motive power for you,
with no losing of bolts or puncturing of tires; though his shoes need
looking over once a month, his mouth needs shaping up once a year, and
he requires a tonic occasionaly. But he'll take you over the hill or through
the country road mud-hole and do it without any chug-chug or wheezing.
It costs something to feed him; but he never runs out of gasoline. When-
sometimes he is laid up for repairs, a few weeks on grass will do it,
or the right sort of medical treatment, instead of its taking a three-figure
bill to rebuild him.

PLENTY NEEDED And plenty more are needed! We need more of
this thrifty horse-raising farm-economy. There is

now only one horse or mule of working age to every 30 acres under
cultivation. 'Taint you and 'taint me, but looks like some of the neigh-
bors are neglecting their opportunities; else they're running their farms
with gasoline engines. The new record price on the Chicago market for
a draft gelding is $680. Motor trucks have not injured the call for good
style, good action heavy drafters. The fad for motor trucks has lost its
advertising value, so say the big concerns. They are too expensive to
keep up, and many of the large mercantile houses East and West are get-
ting rid of motors and buying up fine specimens of heavy drafters.

RAISING COLTS There is a right way to raise colts: from sound
mares and extra good, sound, muscular sires. A

stallion cannot be expected to transmit qualities which he does not have.

The best way of all to raise colts is to select just one type and stick

always to that in breeding. Choose for yourself, whether it is Percheron,

Clydesdale, Suffolk or Shire; or instead of a draft breed select a coach
type — French, German, Cleveland Bay or Hackney; or try the old New
Hampshire favorite, the Morgan. There is some profit in colts bred that
way when it comes to finding a market. Buyers can rely on your standard.
If the whole section joins with you for one select type so much the
better, since buyers can give better prices when they can come and pick

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

out a whole carload. There certainly is a large and sure profit in every
colt of good draft type, easily paying back the extra cost of the well-bred
mare and the very best stallion service. Mares bred in November will
foal the following October, after most of the farm work is over and the
flies are gone. But don't forget the first caution: that with the colt his
first year's care is practically the making of him.

THE FIRST YEAR To get the most out of a colt take care ot mm ngni.
Give him a good start, for as with most animals

it is the first year that fixes the standard. Don't wean too suddenly, as
this causes a setback hard to make up later. Give the weanling some grain
in his ration — keep him growing. Keep him thriving, and remember a
bushel of grain charged up to his cost now will be worth many bushels
a few years later. Give him all he will eat up clean in the manger and
none over. Give plenty of exercise to harden his muscles and develop
appetite.

Safe to say a colt properly cared for the first winter, then given all
the pasture he wants the next summer, will come through all right with
any sort of decent treatment the second winter and be reasonably sure
of good development. Keep a lookout for thrush, which means keeping
the stable floor clean and using Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant in the
water when washing out the hoofs. Also look for lice and worms. Thrush,
lice and worms are the three pests that afflict the colts and fillies.

WATCH THE Watch the feet all tne tune, tor tne teet ot toals tre-
COLT'S FEET quently need leveling. Unless the colt is kept on grass
or well exercised the feet are pretty sure to develop
unevenly, and faulty, uneven growth will affect the whole foot development
and make the joints and tendons liable to inflammation. Unevenness will
affect the upper formation also, and in time destroy the whole balance and
action. Sometimes one wall of the hoof is thin, so that it wears down
sooner. If an inner wall, then naturally that side runs down and a case
of knock-knee or wide-toe develops. Or if the outer wall is thinner,
the outside wears first and the result is pigeon toe. Careful and even

Good fore feet

Crooked fore feet

trimming is the only remedy. Thus it is occasionally necessary to use
the rasp for symmetrical development. But always go a little cautiously
with the rasp, there is so much danger of abusing it. Get the colt out on
a level floor every month at least and see if his feet need leveling. Look at
each foot and see if it rests square and true, pointing straight to the front

RAISING HORSES 59

and with the proper slope of toe-line. It is the square gait that conserves
strength in the horse and increases endurance. See to it that your colt
grows up square gaited.

TRAINING COLTS About training: Teach the colt to be subordinate
at the start. Handle him, let him get accustomed

to it. Teach him to come when called. Petting and a lump of sugar will
do it. Don't let him be afraid of you or take fright at anything. If he
is to amount to anything you must keep him courageous and fearless.
Don't let anyone tease him or startle him and take all the fresh spirit
out of him. If there happens to be any practical "fooler" in the neighbor-
hood who likes to scare and "fool" with a colt, get rid of the fooler in
any prompt sure way you can think of, whether he is your best hired hand
or nearest relation.

When you catch a colt, don't catch by the neck only, — like as not
you will swing him and throw him. Catch with one hand under the neck,
the other under the hams or around the buttocks, so that you can steady
his movements. This is a good way to teach the commands of Whoa
and Get Up as you can control him with your hands and move him for-
ward with every command of Get Up and stop him when you saw Whoa.
Also teach him to back and to Stand Over. Teach the use of the halter
early, first to lead and then to drive. Get the colt familiar with the bit
so he will respond to commands, before ever you attempt to harness him.
In teaching the colt teach only useful lessons and not the so-called "cute
tricks" of biting, rearing and kicking, which will have to be untaught later.
Teach only one thing at a time, but teach that one thing thoroughly. Be
patient with the little fellow but get his entire attention for a short period
at a time, and while von are teaching: give him your entire attenion.

Don't forget to teach your colt to fast walk if you want a good price
for him later. A fast walking horse can get through with about a third
more labor than a slow one, and he is valued accordingly.

FIRST TIME When ready for harness don't use a new set. Select
IN HARNESS one that smells of horse, and let the colt nose it first,
then gently slip it on him. Did you ever see a thought-
less man sling a rattling, strap-flopping harness over the back of a colt
and then grin like an idiot because the colt took fright? Maybe he didn't
realize he was ruining the colt and makmg him that much harder to
manage.

Don't use new harness, but don't go to the other extreme and use
some old, worn-to-the-point-of-breaking stuff that may cause an accident
and spoil your colt, for all time most likely.

There is one main requisite to success in training — it is kindness.

That is why good horsemen don't speak of "breaking" a horse any
more. You might have to break (or bust) a bucking broncho but let
your farm colts be trained, not "broken."

STOP AND Our animals are real agents in the processes of civilization.
THINK Whether we keep a few for pets or for their labor, or for

their valuable products, all our dumb animals compel us to
habits of kindly care, if we want to get the most out of them. Isn't this
thought, a pleasant one to consider, — that animals cultivate our gentleness
and responsibility as against any lurking brutality in us?

60 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

STICK TO You wouldn't have scrub or mongrel cows, or swine, or
A TYPE even chickens, on your farm. It doesn't pay.

It is the same with horses, or more so. They have been
bred for special work, light or draft types. You know what work you
want; then select the type for it, and breed for it every time. What is

Bred for hard work

the little extra trouble along-side of the improvement of the horse stock
on your place? Any extra expense is quickly repaid by the surely good
colts — and what better advertising is there for the thrifty farmer than
his good animals?

BEST WAY As stated above, let the whole neighborhood, better still the
TO SELL whole county, select a type for breeding. There are immense
advantages. It advertises the section; and buyers are willing
to give more per head when they can pick up a whole carload, — say from
$5.00 to $10.00 more per animal. But be sure that you know your own
horses: Don't let the buyer take all your best. Keep fully up to market
requirements and the value depending on soundness, conformation, quality,
condition, age, color, education and general appearance. Keep in mind this
fact, that every animal will be graded in the judgment of the buyer — as
choice, good, medium, common or inferior, and it's an individual test.

GOVERNMENT AID The government is now taking a hand in this
business of breeding, and giving special attention

to light and draft horses of better type. In Vermont the federal govern-
ment is co-operating to a considerable extent to bring back the old Morgan.
This old favorite has always been loved for his trim, short legs, big body,
trappy action and lofty style. A few enthusiasts desire to grow this "big
little horse" to 15.1 hands, but the majority favor keeping him down to 14.2
or 14.3 hands. In Iowa the government work is for improving draft horses,
and in Colorado, heavy carriage horses, by selection from American trot-
ting horses. All this is federal work. Individual states are waking up on

RAISING HORSES 61

their own hook. New Jersey has appropriated $20,000 to provide stallions
of good draft and coach type for the use of farmers in grading up their
own stock. With co-operation the horseflesh of this country is bound
to improve. Stricter laws are in force, beginning January 1, 1911, to
insure only pure bred importations, so that it is clear, the United States
Department of Animal Husbandry is lending its aid in every possible way
to benefit American breeders. The government is confident that carefui
breeding of live stock pays.

SOME HORSE Since prehistoric times, when man first got the mastery
HISTORY of the now extinct wild original, the horse has been

developed for various purposes according to man's
various needs. From that early specimen which three million odd years
ago lived and thrived in many parts of the world, in size not much larger
than a dog, with two toes on his front feet and triple cleft on his hind
feet — it's a long and interesting story to the horse of today. But for
practical purposes it is hardly worth while for us to look back much far-
ther than the 17th century, A. D., when Arabian blood horses were intro-
duced into Europe and marked the first real step toward special improve-
ment. It was by means of this Arabian stock that breeders in England
worked out their improvements and reached at last the highest types of
animals we know today as English Thoroughbreds, Racers, Hunters and
Hackneys. It was from these in turn this country developed the American
Horse, which we have perfected chiefly in trotting.

BIG DATES IN The keeping of studbooks dates from 1808 when

HORSE HISTORY the English Thoroughbred was established. But

previous to that time, in 1797, Diomed, winner of

the first English Derby, was imported to this country. Bull Rock, which
Virginia imported in 1730, is believed to be the first Thoroughbred brought
to this country. But Diomed, then 20 years old, may be said to be our
greatest early importation. In 1836 Glencoe was successfully imported and
the later Leamington was the next most important arrival, since which
there have been many and various importations from every country.

MADE IN As already stated, America has improved the Thorough-
AMERICA breds. These horses average now over 15 hands, 2 inches
high and weigh probably 150 Ibs. more than fifty years ago,
and show improved individual qualities. This improvement is thought to
be due to ^better natural conditions, since .animals are housed less over
here, have better pasture, and other conditions better for their feet, on
which so much depends in horse development. In general the changes in
America have been along practical lines, to meet working needs, rather
than the demand of sport or pleasure. The use of light vehicles here,
and the improvement of our roads have helped to develop high trotting
ability.

II. Draft Horses

With most horse-raising communities the type of horse selected will
be one of the many draft breeds.

Hprs« types may be considered under two main classifications, — Draft
and Light Horses.

Draft horses are the heaviest and largest of horse breeds, and have
been developed to meet the demand of cities for trucking purposes. The
chief draft breeds are — Percheron, Belgian, Clydesdale, Suffolk and Shire.

In form draft horses are massive but low built, blocky, compact,
animals, They suggest power in every feature of their development. In

62

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

general we estimate their value according to weight, on the supposition
that this indicates the power brought into the collar. Draft horses conform
to certain main essentials of development and usefulness, as follows:

DRAFT POINTS Lean head, strong and muscular neck, smooth, well-set
shoulders, broad knee, smooth, well-sloped pastern, foot

large, well-set and free in movement are the chief conformation points to
look for in draft horses.

Quality is shown by large, strong, firm bones, with tendons prominent.
Hair fine and silky, — especially the "feather," the hair on the fetlock, — is
taken to show good bone quality, just as hair indicates quality in cattle.

Bold, free, regular gait at a walk is essential, — for express animals
the same ease of gait in a trot. For a farm horse, a good square walk is
like a good, square deal for men. A good fast walk is especially valued
for the reason already stated.

A $3,500 Brood Mare (Percheron), owned by Gregory Farm, Whitehall, 111.

GENERAL POINTS The score card from the University of Missouri
calls for generous and symmetrical development,

lively carriage, full bright clear eye, large flexible nostrils. In every point
quality is best described as neither coarse nor refined, not too large or
too small in bone, too massive or too slender a leg. In the entire scale
of points full 15 go to action, — that rapid, springy, straight walk, or free
balanced straight trot so essential for commercial purposes. Another 10
points go for weight alone, of course age and condition are also consid-
ered. The forefeet should be large, even and sound, hoofs dense and
waxy, sole concave, bars strong, frog large and elastic; heels should be
wide, and the rule is one-half the length of the toe and set vertical to
the ground. Full 8 points go to the forefeet, and 6 points for the hind
feet on the same general characteristics. Hocks should be large, strong,
wide, deep, clean and well set.

DRAFT HORSES 63

WEIGHT Draft horses of above good type weigh from 1,500 to

AND HEIGHT 2,000 Ibs. The rule for estimating value is 25c for each
additional pound — the heavy horse in harness means
more horse power in the collar. Hence weight is more important than
height. The average height is 16 to \7l/2 hands.

PERCHERON The one most popular draft horse in America is the

Percheron.

These big, gray fellows (black, bays and roan are getting to be com-
mon) have rather small heads with nicely arched necks, broad muscular
hindquarters, short legs showing little "feather." While obscure in origin,
they have been bred for many centuries in La Perche, France, blended
and improved with the Arab and Barb blood introduced into France from
the Saracen invasion (732 A. D.). The French government early realized
the advantage of the careful breeding of Percheron horses, and govern-
ment studs were established back in the 18th century. The Percheron
type was early introduced into America: but the real history of the breed
over here dates from the importing of the gray colt Louis Napoleon into
Ohio.

LOUIS NAPOLEON Louis Napoleon proved a marvelous breeder and
it is claimed to his credit that over 400 of his sons

proved successful stallions. The average of power in the Percheron
"grades" today is said to be fully one-fourth greater on account of the
influence of this wonderful sire. Since Louis Napoleon there have been
many importations and the Percheron is well established in this country.
They are the most popular of all the drafters, no doubt of that. The regis-
ter contains some 30,000 names, the actual number of pure bred mares
being very small however. Percherons have been used with common brood
mares to improve stock, so that cross breeds and grades are now exceed-
ingly common. Louis Napoleon was 15^ hands high, weight 1,600 Ibs. The
Percheron standard here is 16 to 17.2 hands, however, weight 1,600 Ibs. to
2,200 Ibs. Percherons mature very quickly, in fact, it is possible to breed
the mares at 2 years of age but farm mares should not be bred under 3 years.
Docile, but with plenty of brain back of the full and prominent eyes; true
and snappy action, reliable in heavy work, the Percheron deserves all its
honors. Competition is keen among supporters of the breed so that show-
ring contests are always sure to bring out worthy contestants.

FRENCH DRAFT Formerly the Percherrfn was mixed with the French
Draft class, but now the French Draft is kept as a

distinct breed. They originated in Northern France, and thus for years
they were called Normans. If classified according to their place of develop-
ment we might follow Prof. Plumb's* distinction of the French Draft breeds
as 1, Percheron (from La Perche, France), 2, Boulonnais (from Boulogne),
3, Breton (from Brittony), 4, Nivernais (from Central France), 5, Ardenais
(from Ardennes, en the Belgian frontier), 6, Picardy, sometimes' consid-
ered Belgian, sometimes Boulonnais.

French draft horses are exceedingly heavy, 2,200 Ibs. or more, height
16 hands and higher. They are not so true to type breeding, because of
the mixed ancestry, but with greater care this fault will in time be cor-
rected.

BELGIAN By no means as popular as the Percheron and many other

draft types, the Belgian is every year making great strides,

chiefly on account of the greater attention given importing and breeding.

* "Types and Breeds of Farm Animals," by C. S. Plumb

64

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

Belgians are the giants among horses, heavier than the Percheron — in fact
they are heaviest of all breeds — weighing from 1,700 to 2,500 Ibs. The
Belgian government encourages the careful breeding of this type of draft
animal, supporting the official society for the promotion of Belgian Draft
breeding, and spending some $70,000 annually for shows, prizes, etc. Be-
sides, the government gives "maintenance prizes" to certain animals, and
in the case of extra fine specimens gives a yearly bounty as long as the
animal remains approved and in the country. If he is exported this bounty
must be paid back to the government, however. A pension system like
this is pretty sure to put enthusiasm into careful breeding, and send the
breed forward by leaps and bounds to improved development. The breed
was first imported into the United States in 1866 and was called "Boulon-
nais." Exhibits were small and unimportant until the international show
in Chicago, 1905. In 1910 the breed made an unusually creditable show-
ing, not only in number but in improved quality and characteristics. Safe
to say it will now go steadily on in this direction. The new 1911 laws on
importing duly registered pure bred animals will greatly safeguard the
Belgian as well as all other breeding interests in this country.

CLYDESDALE The Clydesdale type has a long body with a long stride
and rapid walk — they are "good goers." In fact they
are famed for their good feet, good bone and good action, all points duly
praised by Scotchmen who want drafters that will move away strong, drive
straight and balance evenly. The Clydesdale is distinctly a Scotch draft
breed, coming to us by way ol the Scotch colonists in Canada. In 1842
the first importation was made. The hairy legs are much liked by good
Scotchmen although criticised by many American farmers who have to
work their horses in mud or dampness. Clydesdales are from 1,600 to 2,200
Ibs. weight and 16 to 17 hands high. The color is usually brown, bay or
black with white markings on face and legs.

Champion Shire Stallion— Chicago, 1910
(Dan Patch, sold by Truman's Stud Farm to Mr. John J. Mitchell for $10,000)

DRAFT HORSES 65

ENGLISH SHIRE The English Shire comes to us from Britain, probably
dating back to the heavy cavalry animals brought by

the Roman conquerors. He is the "great horse" or "war horse" of
early writings and was certainly well fitted for bearing the weight
of the heavy armor of early times. Shires are heavier, also taller than
the Clydesdale, and slower gaited. In color they may be bay, brown, black
or gray. Robert Bakewell, the great English breeder, did a great deal
for the Shire during his useful life in the latter part of the 18th century.
The modern Shire has been much improved to get rid of the coarseness
and sluggishness of the old fashioned animal. They are very satisfactory
workers and are now found on farms throughout the country. In Shires
look for the characteristic "Roman" nose, and the heavy "feather" on
the leg.

SUFFOLK PUNCH The Suffolk is an English breed. They are a mix-
ture of several strains but have generally recog-
nizable characteristics: small ears, eyes also rather small but forehead
broad, and nose tending to the Roman. The neck is well arched, especially
in the stallions. Particularly noticeable is the round-barrelled, full body.
This used to be much exaggerated in the type, so that they formerly de-
served the term "Punch." However, the aim now is for a body girth of
about 8 ft. measured back of the shoulder. Suffolks are not large boned,
but they are claimed by breeders to be of good texture. Their feet have
been criticised occasionally, though they rank well in action, coming next
to the Clydesdale. English farmers claimi for the Suffolk a maximum of
working power on a minimum of feed and rest. They certainly have vigor
and constitution. They are long lived and remarkably productive in breed-
ing. One record is that of the stallion Julian Boxer 755, who has been
used now for. 25 seasons.

III. Light Horses

The draft type, as we have seen, is all power and utility.

We now come to light horse types, and find various classifications
of light horses according to their fitness for practical work or pleasure.
Carriage, trotting, running and saddle horses are all of them light horse
types, and in general they lean to lithe, symmetrical, muscular and not
over-full development.

LIGHT HORSE TYPES

Carriage:

French Coach.
German Coach.
Cleveland Bay.
Hackney.

Trotting:

American trotter, — various blood lines.
American roadster, — grades.

Pacing:

Various breeds.

Running and Saddle:
Arabian and Barb (ary).
English Thoroughbred.
American Saddle Horse.

66

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

LIGHT HORSE All of these types suggest nervous energy and power.
POINTS All have longer legs than the draft type of animal, with

back short and strong. In quality the light horse must
suggest refinement as well as strength and endurance. In fact in all light
horse types there must be plenty of style and grace to suit the popular
requirements. Quality is shown by the thin skin and prominent veins,
also by the fineness and length of the mane and tail. Bone substance is
in the animal, but here too we look for the same quality of refinement.
The animal must have clean, sharply defined tendons. In constitution we
look for generous and symmetrical development, but every point must be
suggestive of spirit. The flanks must be full; the eyes bright and clear
and the nostrils large and sensitive.

As in the case of draft breeds the score card for light horses calls for
plenty of action, — 15 points for long, fast, elastic, straight and regular
walk, or a trot that is rapid, regular and straight. Seven points go for
large, strong, wide, deep, clean, well-set hocks; six points for forefeet of
medium size, even and sound, with hoofs dense and waxy, and the same
general characteristics for good horse feet as for draft animals. Tempera-
ment is also very important for the light breeds; and five points cheer-
fully go for spirit and energy, combined with teachableness. Tempera-
ment is extremely important since so much of the horse's value depends
on training.

Variation from Draft to Coach and Light Horse Types

CARRIAGE Of the various types of the light horse breeds the largest is
TYPES the coach or carriage animal. The carriage horse stands

usually 16 hands high, and is suited to heavy harness, with
a full, graceful body, high carriage of tail and "coachy" or "trappy" action.
The French and German Coach were developed in each case by the na-
tional government, out of native mares, by English Thoroughbred stallions,
the object being more fitness for cavalry purposes. The French Coach
has a considerable mixture of blood, and is not therefore true to color in
breeding. The German Coach horse is usually bay or brown. In general
the German Coach horse has not quite as good action as the French Coach
horse; the latter more resembles the Hackney. Hackneys are the corre-
sponding type in England, being the mixture of Thoroughbred blood with
that of native driving mares, improved with the Darley Arabian who was
imported in 1706. With the Hackney speed is not a consideration, but it
has a good walking gait and high knee action. In action, the legs are much
flexed and the foot describes a circle. Hackneys are good "park" or other
stylish driving animals. They are not so good for the farmer, being a little
under size and not especially strong, either in speed or endurance.

LIGHT HORSES

67

AMERICAN The American Trotter or Roadster — purely an American
TROTTERS breed — requires as its chief points stamina and speed. It
is next in size to the carriage horse, standing 15^4 or under
16 hands high. It should not weigh over 1,100 Ibs. and should show lean,
angular development. Roadsters should have less "show," but straight
true action. A long stride, the secret of our great running records, should
always be a marked characteristic.

Prior to 1806 no trotting horse had taken a record of a mile in less
than three minutes; but in that year a horse called Yankee made a record
of 2:59, at Harlem, N. Y. Nearly a century passed before the time was
cut to less than two minutes by Lou Dillon. The following trotting
record will revive some interesting if not thrilling recollections: Lady
Suffolk 2:29^ in 1845, Flora Temple 2:19^ in 1859, Dexter 2:17^ in 1867,
Goldsmith Maid 2:14 in 1874, Rarus 2:13^ in 1878, St. Julian 2:12^ in
1879, Jay Eye See 2:10 in 1884, Maud S. 2:08^4 in 1885, Sunol 2:Wy2 in
1889, Nancy Hanks 2:04 in 1892, Aliz 2:03^ in 1894, The Abbott 2:03^ in
1900, Cresceus 2:02^ in 1902, Major Delmar 1 :59& in 1903 and Lou Dillon
in 1903.

World's Records— Trotting

EVENT

NAME OF HORSE

Date

Record

%n
1m
Fas

Fas

iile to v*
lie . .
test mile
* 2 mi

test mar
' geld
' stal
yeai
yeai

: p

' 2
' 3
' 3
' 3
' 4

; 4

' 5
' 5
5

' 14

" gr?

ragon

in open . . .
les

e

Uhlan, blk. g., by Bingen

1911
1903
1910

1910
1903
1910
1910
1909
1910
1909
1910
1899
1910
1910
1911
1910
1893
1908
1903
1910
1909
1910
1903
1908
1910

0.56K
1.58%
1.58%

4.15K
1.58%
1.58%
2.01
2.19J*
2.19%
2.073/i
2.09%
2.14%
2.04%
2.06%
2.07%
2.04%
2.Q5X
2.07^
1.58%
2.01
2.02 K
2.05 #
1.58%
2.06^
2.04%

Lou Dillon, ch. m., by Sidney Dillon
Uhlan, blk. g., by Bingen .....
The Harvester, br. h., (5) by Walnut Hall, (1st
mile 2.08%, 2nd mile 2.06%)
Lou Dillon, ch. m., by Sidney Dillon
Uhlan, blk. g., (6) by Bingen ....
The Harvester, br. h., (5) by Walnut Hall . .
Miss Stokes, b., by Peter the Great

ing
lion

"ling filly . . .
•ling colt . . .
ar old filly . .
colt ....
old gelding
' colt . .
filly . .

Sf!18
colt . .
gelding
mare .
stallion
gelding
old ....
;n performer .
gelding . .
stallion . .

Wilbur Lou, b., by Kinney Lou .
Native Belle, b., by Moko

Justice Brooke, b., by Barongale
Endow, b., by Cecilian
Colorado E., b., by the Bondsman
Native Belle, b., by Moko
Peter Thompson, b., by Peter the Great . .

Joan, b., by Directum Spier

Directum, blk., by Director

Uhlan, bl., by Bingen

Lou Dillon, ch., by Sidney Dillon .
The Harvester, br., by Walnut Hall .

Uhlan, bl., by Bingen . . . . t
Country Jay, ch. g., by Jayhawker

Lou Dillon, ch. m., (5) by Sidney Dillon .

Highball, b., (7) by Dr. Hooker
Colorado E., b., (4) by the Bondsman

Trotting in Races

% mile to
Fastest he

wagon
at

Major Delmar, b. g., by Delmar ...
Hamburg Belle, b. m., (7) by Axworthy
The Harvester, br., (5) by Walnut Hall .
Uhlan, bl., by Bingen
Pansy McGregor, f ., by Fergus McGregor

1911
1909
1910
1909
1893
1909
1910
1909
1910
1910
1893
1910
1909

1.00
2.01K
2.02
2.03%
2.23%
2.07%
2.09%
2.07}<
2.04%
2.04%
2.05^
2.02
2,03%

1 stal
' geld
yea

f*

3
3

4
4

5

ion
inp

rlin
ar

; o

. . .

g . .
aid .
dcolt
filly
colt

Native Belle b f , by Moko

Justice Brooke, b., by Barongale
Czarevna, ch., by Peter the Great
Colorado E., b. c., The Bondsman

Joan, b m., by Directum Spier

Directum, b., by Director

The Harvester, br. h., by Walnut Hall
Uhlan, blk. g., by Bingen

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

Trotting— Half-Mile Track

EVENT

NAME OF HORSE

Date

Record

Fastest mile
1 mile by a mare ....

Uhlan, blk. g., (6) by Bingen
Sweet Marie, b., by McKinney ....

1910
1907

2.05&
2.07

1 " 'r stallion

Cresceus, ch., (9) by Robert McGregor

1903

2.08

" a yearling . . .
1 " a 2 year old . .

Benear, b. c., by Bingara
Al Stanley, rn. c., by Todd

1910
1908

2.34%
2.20

1 " " a3 "
1 " " a 4 " "...

Muda Guy, b. f., by Guy Axworthy
Pat L., b. c., by Republican

1909
1896

2.\2Y4
2.10%

1 " in a race ....

Sweet Marie, b. m., (11) by McKinney

1907

2.08

World's Records— Pacing

% mile . .

Dan Patch, br. h., (7) by Joe Patchen

1903

056

1

Dan Patch, br. h., (9) by Joe Patchen

1906

1.55^

; in the open ....
Fastest stallion
gelding
mare

Minor Heir, b. h., (7) by Heir-at-Law
Dan Patch, br., (9) by Joe Patchen
Prince Alert, b., (11) by Crown Prince
Dariel, b., (10) by Alcander

1910
1905
1903
1903

1.58%
1.55 #
1.59%
2 OOX

" yearling colt .
" filly . .
gelding

Frank Perry, by Toddington
Belle Acton, b., by Shadeland Onward
Rollo, gr., by Jerome Eddy

1911
1892
1891

2.15

2.20-K
2 28%

" 2 year colt

Directly, blk., by Direct . .

1894

2 07K

" , 2 " old filly . .
3 colt

Fleta Dillon, b., by Sidney Dillon . . .
Del Ray, by Nutwood Wilkes .

1909
1911

2.08K
2 05

3 old filly . .
3 gelding
4 colt . .
" 4 filly

Miss De Forest, by The De Forest
Hymettus, b., by Zombro
Online, b., by Shadeland Onward
The Maid, b., by Hal Index . .

1911
1907
1894
1899

2.05^
2.08%
2.04
2 05^

" 4 gelding
" 5

W. Wood, by Steinway
Coney, blk., by McKinney

1892
1900

2.07
2 Q2K

5 ' " stallions

( Searchlight, br., by Dark Night
-! Audubon Boy, ch., by J. J. Audubon
( Don Densmore, by Pactolus

1899
1902
1911

1 2.03K

5 " " mare .
green performer .
" " gelding . .

Lady of the Manor, ch., by Mambrino King ....
Minor Heir, br. h., (6) by Heir-at-Law ....
My Star, ch., (S)byWilstar

1899
1908
1906

2.04^
1.59%
2.033^

Pacing in Races

1A mile

Prince Alert, b. g., (10) by Crown Prince

1902

057K

Fastest heat, stallion . . .

Minor Heir, b., (7) by Heir-at-Law
j Prince Alert, b., (9) by Crown Prince

1910
1901

1.59

gelding . . .

1 Boliver, b., (9) by Wayland W . . .

1906

| 2.00K

mare ....
yearling . .
2 year old

Lady Maud C, ch., by Chitwood
Belle Acton, b. f., by Shadeland Onward
Ecstasy, b. f., by Baron Wilkes

1910
1892
1898

2.01%
2.30
2.10%

3 " " . .

4 '
5 " " . .

Del Ray, by Nutwood Wilkes
Searchlight, brc., by Dark Night
Coney, blk. g., by McKinney

1911
1898
1900

2.05
2.04%
2.023^

Pacing— Half-Mile Track

1 mile

Dan Patch, b., by Joe Patchen

1905

2.01

1 ' gelding

Prince Alert, b., by Crown Prince

1903

2.03%

1 " in a race

Uohn R. Gentry, b. h., by Ashland Chief
< Prince Alert, b. g,, by Crown Prince

1900
1911

^2.04K

ARAB AND BARB All our running stock springs from the English
Thoroughbred. In turn the English Thoroughbred

owes most of its distinguished qualities, such as beauty, stamina, endurance
and speed, to its Arabian blood. Arab horses have been used for centuries
throughout Europe for the improvement of horse stock. The Saracen in-
vaders brought with them 30,000 horses and some of these were left to
the victors when the Mohammedan army was forced to retreat. Russia,
Germany, France, Hungary, all have benefitted by this invasion of Arabian
blood. The wandering Bedouins of the desert and a more southern race,
the Anezah, are the most famous breeders of Arabian horses, — especially

LIGHT HORSES

the Anezah. These Anezah are descended from Ishmael, through the
sheik Salaman (about 1653 B. C.) and it is to Salaman's famous Ajuz, chief
mare of these stables, that the purest strains of today are traced. James I
of England, in the 17th century A. D., imported to England descendants
of these noble mares of the 17th century B. C., as also did later kings
of England. In all it is estimated that 164 Oriental stallions of established
record were taken to England, 90 of these being Arabian, 36 Barbs and
the others being Turkish, Persian, etc. In America the history of Arab
importations is brief: Ranger was brought to Connecticut in 1765. Up to
1860 about 42 Arab stallions had been brought to this country, and 12
mares: also 6 Barbs (4 stallions).

In more recent years these importations have continued. There is
no special society in England or America which promotes the Arabian
horse, but this breed stands in considerable popular favor. The general
belief is that the Arabian can be relied upon to transmit its high intelligence,
spirited style and wonderful endurance qualities. It is used everywhere
to improve or restore depleted stock. The Arab is only 14 to 14^ hands
high, and may be bay, white, gray, chestnut or occasionally black. The head
shows intelligence, combined with sensitiveness and spirit. The body is
inclined to be short, the croup is high, the legs and feet are superior and the
muscle development is wonderfully suited to burden bearing.

THE THOROUGHBRED The English Thoroughbred or running horse

has been developed in England for sport and

pleasure. It is the oldest breed with an established pedigree. Its develop-
ment represents the acme of energy, bone, sinew and muscle development.

The Thoroughbred possesses the greatest possible endurance at the
running gait. One of its chief uses today in America is to grade and im-
prove the blood of other running stock. The history of its development
is one of exceeding interest, but we can refer only to the fortunate mixture
of selected Arabian, Barb and Turkish blood on selected light English
stock, giving today the eclipsing delicacy and beauty of form of the Thor-
oughbred along with real stamina, remarkable speed and extraordinary
endurance. The Thoroughbred in America dates from the middle of the
18th century, so that this breed is of long established standing in this
country.

AMERICAN A distinctly American breed is the American Saddle

SADDLE HORSE Horse. Indeed it is the most beautiful of American

breeds, and in every way a noble animal. The pure

drop in the veins of the American Saddle Horse goes back to imported Thor-
oughbred stallions, and especially to the blood of Denmark, a fine English
Thoroughbred brought to Kentucky in 1839. The settlers of Kentucky,
Virginia and Tennessee aimed at a saddle horse with some degree of the
Thoroughbred's endurance and speed. Longer necked than the English
Thoroughbred, our American Saddle Horse has a noticeably more graceful
movement, with the spirit and endurance of the English animal but not its
nervousness. With careful selection of the brood mares a variety of gaits
have been made characteristic of the saddle horse, combined with a teach-
able spirit, making it easy to train to show a fox or single foot gait, a
running walk, straight walk, or to trot or canter as desired. Saddlers range
from the ladies' horse of 950 Ibs. to the heavy saddle horse of 1050 Ibs.,
height from 15.1^ to 15.2^ hands. As would be expected from the mixed
breeding, the colors are various — brown, black or chestnut. A good saddle
horse should have a spirited carriage in head and neck and tail, a neat body
and a strong back for the saddle. .

70 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

IV. Good Care

Scrub conditions make scrub animals. Some critics say the horse gets
the least attention of any animal on the farm.

Whether true or not, such a general statement doesn't matter. The
question is your farm: How about your horses?

The cost to keep a work-horse varies more than that of any other
farm animal. In the first place a horse is fed for a different purpose, as
it's not horse steak we're after, but horse sweat: in other less homely
phrase, work and energy.

We value a horse as we do a man or a machine — for the work we can
get out of him.

FEEDING We feed a horse to get this valuable return in energy, hence
the rule: Feed wisely, temperately, in accordance with class
or the amount of work to be done.

Feed well — enough, but not too much. Let up on the feed when the
hard work season is over. Avoid "Monday morning disease" by more
temperate feeding over the rest-day, Sunday. Don't feed the same whether
working or idle. Safe to say most horses get too much anyway, and all
sorts of indigestion troubles follow. Feed regularly — irregular feeding tends
to the habit of bolting. Swallowing food without properly chewing it is
a fault of many horses. If the trouble is with the teeth, have them
attended to; if just a habit, put some round smooth stones in the feed box
so that the bolter will have to nose around to get the food, hence cannot
eat so rapidly.

DANGER FROM Any sudden or violent change is what plays hob

SUDDEN CHANGE with horses. A sudden change in the amount or

way of feeding is almost sure to cause digestive

derangements, generally colic; and from colic more horses die than from
any other disorder. All forage should be clean and of the best quality.
Water must be abundant, clean and pure always, as horses are easily
affected from water impurity. Cases of colic are often traced to bad water.
Salt is another necessity. See that your horses have constant access to
salt — better still, a medicated salt mixture, as advised on page 46 where we
give receipt for a good and cheap home-made stock salt, combining Stock
Tonic.

AIR Your horse needs air — just 20 times as much air as you do. Pure
air is more essential than warmth. Bad ventilation in the stable
leads to catarrh, coughs, colds, chest diseases, and other serious conditions,
among them the incurable diseases, glanders and farcy. Avoid drafts but
insist on fresh air in your stable. If necessary, saw holes and protect from
drafts by covering the holes with muslin.

LIGHT Your horse should have proper light in his stable for general
comfort and health, but light direct in the face should be care-
fully avoided. Horses kept in dark stalls are frequently subject to eye
disorders from the abrupt change to daylight. The floor of the hayloft
should be seed and dust tight or there may be injury to the sensitive eyes
or ears of your animals.

GOOD CARE

71

EXERCISE Don't let your horse get "soft" from lack of exercise. No
matter how healthy he may be in other respects, when his
muscular system is soft he cannot go fast or far, but soon shows exhaustion.
Besides, without exercise he will suffer from uneven and drying hoofs,
become lame, footsore or otherwise liable to disorder.

BLANKETS If a horse is in good health don't blanket him in the stable.

The blanket may slip off while the horse is lying down,

or a forgetful attendant may not think to put it on the animal. On the

other hand, be sure to blanket when
the animal is exposed outside to
inclement weather. A $5.00 blanket
often will save a $300.00 horse.
Many teamsters and horse-owners
make the mistake of throwing the
blanket doubled over the hind
quarters and loins, leaving the
chest and fore-quarters entirely un-
protected. This practice tends to
draw the blood from the chest,
making that sensitive part of the
body especially liable to chill. A
good deal depends on season and
climate. The horse has active
sweat glands — is perspiring contin-
ually when in normal condition.
When the blanket will cause the

temperature to go above normal, you see for yourself it will, when taken
off, cause the temperature to fall unduly; and the sudden change is almost
sure to bring trouble.

"COOLING OUT" After exercise the horse's temperature will rise con-
siderably above normal. Whenever possible the

careful driver will walk his animal for a mile or two before reaching home.
A race horse is always systematically "cooled out" by his attendant before
he is allowed the freedom of his stable or given water or feed. Then he is
blanketed with two blankets — one to absorb moisture and the other to keep
the body warm and dry. Suppose you let an overheated animal help him-
self to all the cold water he might want: The temperature of the body
would quickly fall below normal, then keep on falling, and the horse would
be an easy victim to chills, congestion, pneumonia or founder. So never
let the temperature of a horse fall rapidly below normal.

YOUR HORSE'S
COAT

Horses should be clipped just before the new coat
starts to come in. Clipping the ends of the new hair
will make the new coat rough and harsh. All horses

with long, heavy coat, or horses in a generally unthrifty condition are bene-
fited by clipping. Many ills come from standing in a coat of long wet hair
after hard driving; whereas the clipped horse dries quickly. Good care
shows itself in the outward appearance of the animal — in his sleek and
shining coat. A horse shows his condition in his skin more quickly than in
any other way. When he is plump, close-haired, clean and contented you
may know that he has had good fodder. When you see a scrawny, rough,
hard-skinned, restless animal you may decide for yourself that his owner
lacks both knowledge and love for the brute. This is true of all livestock.
Their appearance speaks volumes for or against the owner. Learn the
value of Conkey's Stock Tonic to improve the looks of your livestock.

72_ CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

*"

FLIES Many a horse otherwise well cared for is left to the torment of
summer flies, or at the most provided only with a net as an aid
in switching them from his coat. The fly problem is a serious one, but by
no means so hard to get around as many owners would seem to believe.
In the first place, more care in the stable, especially in manure heaps, would
lessen the trouble at its source. It is easy to disinfect these breeding
places of flies, by spraying regularly with some proved "deterrant" such as
Conkey's Fly Knocker solution. With such precautions in disinfecting
and spraying, the stable will cease to be the danger spot it now is, spreading
infection and disease throughout the whole neighborhood. In addition,
spray the animal, especially before taking it out for a drive. This will
keep the flies from the horse and prevent the fretting so wearing to the
high-spirited driving horse. A fretting, tormented animal requires more
feed to keep it in condition, hence spraying with Fly Knocker saves on the
feed bill. It also saves shoes, as there is less stamping; and with less
stamping, the stable floor will not call for repairs so often.

SOUND One of the first conditions for health is sound teeth. In addition
TEETH to the disease germs bred in the mouth by bad teeth there is this
fact: that sound teeth perform the very first step in the process
of utilization of feed. Remember that the horse's food is not cooked and
his teeth must be good, in order to properly masticate his rations. It is
worse than throwing feed away to give it to an animal that can neither
chew nor digest it. Poor feed and bad teeth are the cause of three-fourths
of all the colics and digestive disorders of horses, says Dr. Clover, of the
Colorado Agricultural College. ^

A horse's teeth should be examined at least once a year. As the upper
jaw is wider than the lower, constant wearing may produce a sharp ridge
on the inside of the lower molars and on the outside of the upper molars,
which is easily felt on examination. These ridges are often as sharp as
knives and are liable to cut the tongue and cheeks, when the pain will
cause the animal to neglect proper mastication. Teeth so worn will often
make a poor driver of a good horse; as he will jerk his head to one side,
or throw his head in the air and jump when the tender place is touched
by the bit. Always examine the teeth when a horse is troubled with
indigestion; for bad teeth are a most common cause. A dental veterinarian
will rasp these down to normal condition in a few moments.

2 years j 6years j I2years Ey.treme.Age

SIGNS The teeth of a horse, where not tampered with by professional
OF AGE "swappers" or horse jugglers, are one of the best means of
telling the age. "At the same time it must be remembered that
while the age of a horse is an important factor in judging its value, some
horses have more real usefulness ahead of them at fifteen years than many
others have at seven. About twenty years is considered -the limit of a
horse's usefulness, though frequent exceptions are found where a good
animal is useful at thirty. Up to the tenth or twelfth year the individual
teeth offer fair evidence for judging age. After that time the age must
be calculated by the general appearance of the teeth and the bones of the

GOOD CARE 73

head. When the horse is young, the roots of the teeth extend far into
the bone and give the face and lower jaw a rounded appearance. As the
horse grows older, the face becomes more concave, the jaws get thinner
and sharper, the bones become more prominent, and the hollows above the
eyes deepen. As the animal becomes still older, the hair turns gray about
the muzzle, and the general appearance of the face indicates advancing
years.

A HORSE'S The adult horse has twelve teeth for biting, called incisors,
TEETH six in each jaw within the lips. There are twenty-four

molars, or "grinders," with which to grind or masticate the
food. Of these there are six on each side of the upper and lower jaws.
In males there is an extra tooth, called the bridle or canine tooth, on each

/fry ears 6 years IZ/cara Vc-ry Old.

Changes in canine tooth or "tusk" (not found in mares)

side of each jaw, between the incisors and the molars. These may some-
times be found in mares, but they are usually small and undeveloped. Small,
extra molars are sometimes found forward of the first molars on the upper
jaw (rarely on the lower), commonly called "wolf teeth." They are use-
less, and also harmless, although old-time "hoss doctors" blamed them for
many eye troubles.

The different molars are indicated by numbering them from front to
back, calling right and left, as the second right upper molar. The incisor
teeth take their names from their position; the two middle teeth are called
the central incisors; one on either side is called a lateral incisor; and the
two outer ones, one on either side, are called the corner incisors.

A horse has, in his life time, two sets of teeth. The first temporary,
or "milk" set, twenty-four in number, consists of twelve incisors and twelve
molars. There are three incisors and three molars in each side of each jaw.
They are smaller and whiter than the permanent set, and have a "neck,"
or constriction, at the gum.

The temporary teeth in colts are cut as follows: When born, a colt has
three molars on each jaw, and the two central nippers or incisors. They
may be covered by a thin skin which breaks in a day or two. The lateral
incisors are cut at from four to six weeks; and the corner incisors at from
six to ten months. At one year old the colt has a full set of twenty-four
temporary teeth.

The two central incisors are shed at about two and a half years, and
the permanent ones are in use at three years. The lateral incisors are shed
at three and a half years, and the permanent ones are in use at four years.
The corner incisors are shed at four years and a half, and the permanent
ones are in use at five years.

FACTS "No foot no horse" is a trite but truthful saying?.

ABOUT FEET Keep the feet in good shape. The greatest care

a horse's feet is not in curing them after they are knocked
out, but in keeping them in good working normal condition. In their

74

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

Diagram of Healthy Hoof

A, wall; C, bars; D, buttresses; E, cleft of frog;

F, sole; G, leafy layer; H, frog; I, branches of

frog; K, horny bulbs; L, middle cleft of frog;

AA, toe; AB, sidewalls; BD, quarters.

natural state the horse's hoofs would never become hard and contracted—
their contact with the earth and herbage would counteract such a tendency.

In the natural state the concus-
sion of each footfall is lessened by
the elasticity of the ground, by the
soft, pliable condition of the foot
itself, and by various details in its
construction all fitted to the purpose
— such as the frog, arch of the sole,
plantar-cushion, etc.

This is the natural pliable condi-
tion of the foot when the animal runs
in the natural pastures; but if kept
long in stables or worked on paved
streets or hard dry roads, the foot Q.
entirely dries out. The hoof sub-
stance contains 25% water in normal
healthy condition. As it loses this
water the hoof shrinks, hardens and
cracks. Some say grease the hoofs.
But the grease enters into the porous
substance, driving out the water and
keeping it out. The frog of the foot,
being softer in its composition, is all
the more sensitive to conditions, and
when deprived of moisture in the
natural manner, it shrinks and hardens
even to a greater degree than does
the outer horn. Remember the horse's hoof, when in healthy condition,
undergoes natural expansion (1/50-1/12 in.) every time it touches the
ground. If dried and hardened from unnatural conditions, the result is sure
to be cracked hoof or quarter crack, contracted hoof, etc.

Plainly, the old-fashioned practice of burning a shoe into the hoof in
order to make it "fit better" (i. e., make the horse fit the iron shoe, to save
the smithy trouble) was the frequent cause of cracked and contracted hoof.
Standing on hard stable floors, working on hard dry roads, are now the
usual causes. Treatment consists in keeping the feet in natural, pliable
condition. Grease doesn't do this for reasons explained above. We suggest
the following treatment:

RIGHT Wash the hoofs clean with good soapy water, or better

TREATMENT yet, with Noxicide* solution. Then apply Conkey's Hoof
Remedy as directed, which, as it has a lanolin (wool-
fat) base, will hold moisture; and, as it penetrates every fibre of the horny
substance, carries its healing properties to the various parts of the hoof and
expands the fibres. Repeat the operation every second day while under
treatment, applying the remedy also along the coronary band. If necessary
to pack the hoof use Conkey's Hoof Remedy mixed with bran, to a heavy
paste. Never use cow-dung or similar disease producing packing. This
treatment cannot be improved on.

Soaking the horse's feet every week for J/2 hour, using a wide wooden
tray or a tub, with an inch of Noxicide solution in it, is recommended for
preyentative treatment. An inch depth of water will be enough, since the
moisture will be absorbed from the bottom of the foot, not through the
horny walls of the hoof. Such a soak-tub can be easily made at home and
will be found very convenient, as it can be carried to different stalls as
needed.

*Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, mixed with water according to directions.

GOOD CARE

75

WHO'S YOUR Don't trust too fully that every blacksmith knows all

HORSESHOER? he should or can give all necessary attention to your

horse's hoofs. Watch the feet yourself, and keep them

healthy and clean. Hoofs on the hind feet grow faster than those on the
front feet. On the average the hoof grows at the rate of y$ in. per month.
If not kept trimmed for even contact with the ground the result is a split
toe or other crack in the hoof substance. Keep them trimmed and save
all this trouble later.

a— Foot axis broken backward, from toe

too long.

b— Well balanced foot.
c — Foot axis broken forward, from over-

„ growth of the quarters.

c— Stumpy foot, short hoof, less expansion Dotted lines through the hoof show how to
of the heel. correct the axis by cutting.

a— Angle is too acute, gives greater length
of hoof in contact with the ground;
greater expansion of the heel.

b— Regular hoof, foot axis straight, angle
45 degrees.

Occasionally it is necessary to use the rasp to correct faulty develop-
ment, but care must be taken not to abuse it, as blacksmiths sometimes do.
Frogs, heels and bars should not be mutilated with the knife. Shoes should
be set once a month to prevent the feet from becoming too long, and the
horse should have plenty of exercise to maintain the foot's healthy condi-
tion. Washing thoroughly every few days and applying a quick dressing of
Conkey's Hoof Remedy will, under most conditions, keep the horse's feet in
perfect order.

PATRONIZE A Neglect of the feet is always expensive. Learn how

GOOD SHOER to take care of them properly, especially during the

laying-up period. Or better still, select a horseshoer

who knows his business, and spend about fifty cents a month for trimming'
and examining the feet of your unused horse. It will save the horse, the
shoer and certainly the owner much future trouble; and for the owner
trouble means more money expended. Thrush, seedy toe, crack, etc., are
some of the diseases that follow overgrowth and stable neglect of a horse's
foot.

WHO CURRIES
YOUR HORSE?

The care of the horse's body, his daily grooming,
can be given in two ways — a right way and a wrong
way. Proper grooming is exceedingly important
to the health as well as appearance of the horse. It does more than clean
the coat from any surface dirt; it opens the pores so that the body poisons
can be more readily thrown off through these important channels; invigor-
ates circulation so that every organ is stimulated to activity, and relaxes
muscles and nerves and soothes by the stroking.

A horse should always be groomed after hard exercising. Some
owners take pleasure in doing this themselves, and doing it well; others
call in the first farm hand "handy" and don't always wait to see if the
work is well done. Besides, there are some important things about groom-
ing which horseowners themselves do not always seem to know.

THE CURRY-COMB One of these is the use of the curry-comb. This

instrument of torture should be used sparingly
on the body of a horse, never on the legs. Its best use is to clean the brush.

76 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

HOW TO CLEAN Here are the proper things for cleaning a horse;

A HORSE curry-comb, dandy brush, body brush, rubbing

cloths, chamois skin, sponge, pail of water and wisp

of straw. Never clean your horse in the stall any more than you would
black your boots in bed. Take him outside if the weather is right; if not,
cross-tie him in the open stable and proceed as follows: Dampen the wisp
of straw, twist into a rope two feet long and tie a knot in it. With this
wisp start at neck and rub vigorously both ways of the hair over every part
of the body and legs. Next take body brush and curry-comb and brush the
right way of hair. Remove the dirt from the brush by drawing curry-comb
through it at intervals. Next take sponge and wipe eyes, nostrils and muz-
zle. Raise tail and sponge legs and between them. Next take a foot hook,
lift up feet and pick any foreign substances, examining feet for loose shoes,
etc. Now hold each foot over water pail and scrub with water brush; then
wipe with sponge. By this time the coat is dry from sponging. Take rub
cloths and smooth the hair with long, even strokes. Apply Conkey's Hoof
Remedy with small brush, covering all parts of the foot. Dampen dandy
brush and brush mane and tail carefully. If there are any chafes or sores
on body or legs, apply Conkey's Healing Powder. If hair is worn off or
skin harsh in spots, apply a little vaseline or bland oil.

This operation has taken about thirty minutes, the animal is clean to
his skin, and he has not been tortured by the curry-comb.

THE SHEATH Geldings and stallions should have the sheath washed as
often as is necessary. Use a soft sponge, warm water
and a few drops of Conkey's Pi-No, enough to make a bland, soapy solution,
which will quickly remove any accumulation and in addition leave the
sheath what is called surgically clean, so that all danger of infection is
positively avoided. Soap is apt to be astringent and harmful. Do not
ever apply grease or oil, as it has a tendency to collect dirt and favors
germ development. If soap is used, be sure to rinse well with clear water
so that no trace of suds remains to irritate the delicate membrane.

SHIPPING AND Horses should be in moderate flesh for shipment

SEASONING HORSES and in good health and well exercised condition.

The tails should be well braided and done up

in burlap to prevent injury. Good laxative food should be given for twenty-
four hours before shipping. The safest way is to ship them bare-footed
after rasping the edges of the hoofs to prevent breaking. A horse should
not have too great an amount of room in a car, as he is likely to be thrown
and injured. When unloaded, horses are often very hungry, and care should
be taken that they do not overeat when their tired and .nervous condition
invites indigestion. Conkey's Distemper Remedy is valuable right at this
time. It should always be used for the so-called shipping fever and all
cases where symptoms of either chills or fever are noticed. Care should
be taken to get the horse back to its normal condition. If the horse seems
simply fagged out without direct symptoms of cold or fever, Conkey's
Horse Tonic will be found the greatest regulator, as it puts the animal in
the best possible condition in the shortest possible time.

Horses that are shipped in from a distance and are unaccustomed to
the climatic conditions and general surroundings, are usually called green
horses, and they do not become "seasoned" until they are thoroughly accli-
mated— used to the feed and water, and well used to the work. Such
animals are usually fat and out of condition, and while they may seem
full of spirit and ambition, they are "soft" and should not be given hard
pulling or driving. At this particular stage a horse's ambition can be

GOOD CARE

77

destroyed while he is yet young; and he is likely to become an unsound,
played-out horse before he has reached his natural prime. Light work and
good care, for a season, will temper him to the new conditions, preserve
his best qualities, and make him a useful animal.

Treat your horse right and he will work for you full twenty years.

Start all horses gradually into heavy work, especially the colts. Give
the muscles time to harden and develop to meet the strain.

THE Look well to the collar,

COLLAR the center of strain and
the center of power. See
that it is neither too big nor too
small, but fits easily and does not tor-
ture. Most injured shoulders are the
result of badly fitted collars. Let
your harness-maker fit the collar to
your horse, removing the padding or
making the collar over if necessary to
make it fit nicely. Poorly made or
poorly fitting harness makes a big
difference in horse power. Clean the
collar of all sweat and dirt, for dirty
collars are a common cause of sore
shoulders. The greatest strength of

a horse is limited by his own worst point, or the most serious fault with his
harness.

Many a horse is blamed for faults that are his driver's.

THE BIT For instance, "pullers" are made, not foaled. Change to a

milder bit.

A rubber covered mouth-piece will cure many a case of
pulling. The bit should be just above the "tush," with check-strap short
enough to keep the bit from coming in contact with the nippers, and yet
long enough to leave the mouth easy at the corners.

A frosty bit is a good thing to put in your own mouth some cold
morning if you want to see how it will make an animal behave.

A good bit is one that gives most control to the driver, both for speed
and direction; and yet does it with the least annoyance to the horse. The
half-check snaffle bit used nine times in ten has no flexibility. Try a Liver-
pool bit for driving and a Weymouth bit for riding.

THE GOLDEN RULE

Feed well, care well, drive well — and you'll prob-
ably get on without doctoring.

WHAT RUINS Nagging when on the road, always driving at highest
HORSES speed, twitching the lines, touching him up, pulling up

with a short stop, starting off with a burst of speed —
will ruin your horse, so that he will probably last you about two years, and
then be "knocked out" for use on the road.

A horse has nerves, same as you and I. Don't keep him keyed up
at fever heat. The more spirited the animal thus treated, the greater the
outrage.

Gentleness, kindness, quietness are the prime requisites in handling
animals, and especially horses.

78 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

WHEN A Every horseman has his favorite treatment for balking —

HORSE BALKS some humane, but most of these "cures" are extremely
inhuman. It is usually foolish to whip or scold or
otherwise abuse a balker — it only increases the animal's resentment or
nervousness, whichever has caused the balking.

Often kindness is the only
thing necessary to get the horse
started — a little petting, coaxing,
perhaps an apple or a lump of
sugar. Sometimes it is necessary
to distract the aggrieved animal's
attention, and one of the best ways
to do this is to get down and hold
up one forefoot for a few minutes,
or pound on the shoe (lightly) with a stone. If a bad case, take a
little time for the following, not forgetting to give the animal first a
little petting: Go to the bits. With a strap fastened around one front leg
between the hoof and fetlock draw up the foot, if necessary tying it up,
by fastening the strap to the hames. The horse will soon get tired of this
three-legged business, but let him have a full treatment, holding him by
the bit and "whoaing" him kindly at each attempt to start. When thor-
oughly tired of this balking, let down the foot and you will probably have
no more trouble. However, repeat the treatment if necessary the next
time, giving him a longer taste of it.

WHEN YOU When you buy a horse there are two places you want

BUY A HORSE to test him: in his stall and outside, putting him

through his paces. In his stall he will likely show

any stable vices he may have, such as weaving, cribbing, kicking and
crowding, etc. Weaving is a swinging of the body from side to side for
hours at a time. Some horses are continually kicking and pawing at the
sides of the stall. Cribbing is sometimes prevented by buckling a strap
around the horse's neck, just back of the ears. When you see such a strap
you can suspect a cribber. Notice particularly if the horse stands squarely
on his feet, without "pointing" a foot to get relief from lameness or sore-
ness. Look out for halter-pulling, which is very annoying. If a horse is
gently made to stand over in the stall he may show evidence of stringhalt
and his hind feet seem fastened to the floor, while it might not be noticeable
if he was made to jump about in the yard.

OUTDOOR You want to see your prospective horse outdoors be-

EXAMINATION fore you buy him. There you can put him through

his paces, test his action. Watch the head and neck

when testing for lameness. If the horse has a foreleg lame he will lift his
head each time; if a hind leg, he will keep his head down.

Outdoors, where you have plenty of good light, go over the animal
point by point, examining every part of the body for defect or disease.
Don't simply look at his feet and legs. Don't trust your eyes. Examine
legs, shoulders, etc., with the hand as well. Irregularities are then plainly
noticeable. If he has quality let him show it all over.

EXAMINATION Begin at the head, and go over first one side and then
IN DETAIL the other. Examine as follows:

The nostril for suspicious discharges; the mucous

membrane lining should be a bright, healthy pink, free from disagreeable
odor. Watch for signs of recent cleaning and be suspicious of a dull,

GOOD CARE

79

bluish color. The mouth should be looked at as to age and bad teeth,
which mean poor mastication. The tongue should be healthy and without
offensive odor. Notice if glands are enlarged or grow fast to adjoining
tissues. Look to the eye; shade it and expose it quickly to light to see if
the pupil dilates naturally; it should also be free from specks and cloudiness,
though the regular "spot-spots" are natural and should not be noticed.
Examine the eye for discharges and inflammation.

The throat should be free from any thickness or enlargement of the
glands. Examine the head for any evidence of Poll Evil and for swelling,
and see if the horse will easily allow the bridle and halter. Examine the
withers for fistulas, running sores, tumors, galls, collar boils, and sweeny.
Look for capped elbow or shoe boils. See if the knee has a bony enlargement,
or scars which would indicate stumbling. Look for all scars or bunches
showing hitting or "interfering" of opposite feet in action. Feel for splints
on the inside of the fore leg and for bony bunches on the outside. See
that back tendons are smooth and that the animal is not knee-sprung as it
stands squarely on its feet. Watch out for "firing" marks indicating past
lameness. The fetlock and pastern joints should be examined for ring-
bones, bunches, etc. Lameness is often disguised by hypodermic injections
of cocaine, so watch out for small puffy places over the large nerves. Scars
at these points would indicate that the animal has been "nerved," which is
usually the operation of cutting the nerve for navicular disease. At the
top of hoof on either side, see that the lateral cartilages are not ossified,
forming sidebones. See that the walls of the hoof show no evidence of
seedy toe, sand cracks, or quarter cracks. Examine the bottom of the foot
for corns and the cleft of the frog for thrush.

Now go over the side and belly looking for tumors and hernia; and,
in the male, the penis and sheath should be looked to for tumors and
disease. The muscles of the hip should be examined for scars, and the
stifle joint for enlargement or
tenderness that would point to
stifle. Examine the hock joint
for capped hock, curb, etc.
Look for both bone spavin and
bog spavin. At the point of the
hock look for thorough-pin.
Below the hock look for ring-
bone, scratches and foot dis-
eases. Now take the other side
in the same manner.

Look for symmetry of both
sides; the hips, legs, nostrils,
lips, eyes, etc. Listen to lung and heart action. See if head and tail are
carried squarely — and you have a good idea of the worth of the animal.

Too/»rb«}.ir«i

BREED MORE — But the best thing is to breed more and buy less.
BUY LESS Buying is a habit, often a bad one. There is no

reason why the average farmer should not benefit him-
self and livestock breeding by raising colts for his own use and for market.
Figure the profit of the average farm with a few serviceable mares put to
pure-bred sires, and a few good colts every year — well fed, trained well and
sold, say at about five years of age, when well broken to work. This
country is coming more and more to be recognized as the best for horses.
The United States actually lead? the world in horse breeding today; but
she doesn't know it!

80 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

Meanwhile American horse buyers are keeping up an old-fashioned
and useless habit in importing so many horses when they can buy the best
in their own country. Chief Rommel, of the Bureau of Animal Husbandry,
says there is no equal to the American horse anywhere in the world. He
says:

WHAT ROMMEL "Horse breeding is constantly improving. The
SAYS farmers are going in for raising draft horses; and

for good ones there is an eager market at prices
which would have astounded the farmer a decade ago.

KENTUCKY — "The most intelligent breeding is being done in Ken-
HOORAY! tucky. There they have had long experience and the

farmers understand the principles back of the work.
Practically no draft horses, however, are to be found in that region.

CORN DIET "The best draft horses in this country are bred

FOR DRAFT BREEDS in what is known as the corn belt, which runs

from Kansas and Nebraska, on the west, to
Ohio on the east, and of which Iowa and Illinois are the center.

THE HORSE "Figures show that horses are not diminishing — in fact,
STILL KING there are more horses in this country than ever. If the
motor car has driven out the saddle and carriage horse
generally, why is it that these are higher in price than before the motor
car came?

"There is a better market than ever for the good horse — and a poorer
than ever for the poor one."

The Evolution of a Horse

RAISING MULES

81

MULES

IT costs less to breed and raise a mule than a horse. The selling price
is usually higher, quality for quality; the demand is always there.
Besides this, a mule is usually marketable earlier than a horse, and
keeps useful even longer. It is a common thing for mules to live twenty
years or more in active service; and many live to thirty, even to forty
years.

While mules should have just as good care as horses, they seem not
to expect much luck in life; and with genuine philosophy, make the most
of what they get. A mule will pull through under conditions that would
make a horse give up life in disgust. A mule is tougher, hardier every way
than a horse. Most authorities agree that the mule is less liable to disease.
There is some dispute as to whether a mule requires less feed than a horse;
but experience shows that at least the mule makes more thrifty gains on
low grade feeds than the horse.

It is certainly true that a mule can do more work than a horse; and
can work under harder conditions, over rough or hilly ground, and in the
heat of burning sun. The mule is sure-footed — he has heels for hills. He
comes down a hill at a cautious gait; but he takes a hill at a run, even
when heavily loaded.

MULE POINTS This hybrid animal, the cross of mare and jackass, is
said to get its body shape from the mare, together with
the good horse qualities of courage and strength. Its patience, endurance,
faithfulness and hardiness it gets from the jack, along with the jack's big
head, large bones, and long narrow feet. There used to be an old-
fashioned idea that this hybrid offspring would not inherit the constitu-
tional defects of the mare; and mares past their usefulness for good colts
would then be bred to jacks. Commonsense, and also a higher, more
critical demand now call for the best quality in both dam and sire; and
the really high grade muie today is dropped by a good specimen draft
brood mare. The market demands good size, and style and finish, strong

82 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

bone, big barrel of the body, but not "paunched," and a foot as large as
possible; although of course the mule foot is narrower and longer than
the foot of the horse.

THE JACK The native jack, which is really the product of a crossing
of all the imported breeds, the Poitou, Andalusian, Maltese,
Catalonian and Majorca, is considered the best by most mule breeders in
this country. The variable color of the native jack is a fault which more
careful breeding is correcting; so that black will be the fixed color. The
native jack is particularly healthy, and has larger legs and feet than any
imported breed, which accounts for its preference here. Whatever the
breed, remember the following points in selecting a jack: He must be at
least 15 hands high, not fat but heavy, with strong bones, a broad chest,
and good strong hips. Usually such a jack has a coarse head; but better
sacrifice quality of the head for the important elements of strength and
weight. Always select a dark color, because color plays an important part
in the market demand for mules.

THE MARE The mare should be of good draft type, or a very good
grade from Percheron, Clydesdale or Belgian; she should
be a good individual, sound in health and without blemish. Look especially
for a fine clean head, broad chest, wide hips, and attractive style and
carriage. The mare should also be of dark color, on account of the market
discrimination against light-colored mules. Remember that the trade
demand is for a good draft type of body in the mule, and that the mule
tends to inherit body form from the dam.

THE MULE This country is appreciative of the mule. The Span-

HAS FRIENDS iards in 1591 first brought mules to America, most of

these going to Mexico. But all through colonial times

the mule was appreciated and George Washington, Henry Clay and other
early Americans made a specialty of breeding them. The mule exactly
suited the southern planters and was the animal relied on in working
southern plantations. In later years, the strength and hardiness of the mule
have put him in favor for city work and general hauling. In fact, wherever
there are hard conditions of work, or climate, or bad roads, you will find
the mule making the best of it. In general, preference is given the female
mule as the hardier and the better worker.

Missouri, Texas and Tennessee are the chief mule raising States, but
Mississippi and Georgia are close followers. Alabama, Kentucky, Arkansas,
Louisiana and both the Carolinas are important in the mule industry. There
are now about 3,500,000 mules in this country, with an average value of $150
— a higher average than that of the horse. There has never yet been enough
to meet the market demand, and the large numbers of mules offered in the
stockyards of Chicago, Kansas City, St. Louis and St. Paul go quickly and
always at good prices. In fact, enthusiastic breeders claim there is fully
twice as much money in raising mules, marketing them when five years
old, as is made in raising horses. It looks like a good proposition when you
consider the following comparisions, namely that mules, —

(1) Cost less than horses to breed and raise;

(2) Are sooner prepared for market than colts;

(3) Find readier sale, at any period; in any number;

(4) Command more as colts than horse colts of equal quality;

(5) Suffer fewer diseases and seem less liable to accidents.

Is it any wonder, then, the mule has friends?

DISEASES OF HORSES 83

Common Diseases of Horses

ABSCESS An abcess is a collection or "gathering" of pus or serum which
may form in any part of the body. It may be caused by a
blow, by constant irritation or may be the result of infection. A swelling
first appears which becomes hot and painful. At first it is hard but gradually
softens and when it breaks open, discharges a large amount of pus.

If the abscess is slow in forming and remains hard, it may be softened
by hot poultices, frequently changed. Use linseed poultice mixed with a
few drops of Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant.

In case the abscess does not break of its own accord, it must be opened.
For this purpose use a sharp, narrow knife, which has been placed in a
solution of Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant or sterilized by boiling in water
for at least 20 minutes. Make an opening where the contents of the abscess
will drain out easily. It is well to keep on poulticing for a day or two after
opening the abscess.

The abscess is to be thoroughly cleaned once a day and washed out
with a solution of Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, one table-spoonful Nox-
i-cide to a quart of warm water.

Then Conkey's Healing Powder should be well dusted in. The mouth
of the abscess must be kept open to allow the escape of the pus as it forms
and a piece of clean cloth or oakum dipped in Nox-i-cide solution, same
strength as above, can be inserted in the wound for that purpose.

APPETITE— ANY Conkey's Stock Tonic mixed with the regular feed

DERANGEMENT three times a day according to directions will improve

the appetite, correct faults of digestion, and act as a

tonic and regulator of all digestive organs. Examine the teeth for they
may need attention.

ASTHMA — The precise nature of these diseases is not yet perfectly

BROKEN WIND understood. They most often follow on chronic indi-
gestion, from the use of musty hay or bad grain; but

may be inherited, as a delicate, round-chested horse seems especially sus-
ceptible. Sometim.es the trouble comes from irritation of the breathing
passages from dusty or dirty hay. In this case Asthma, Broken Wind and
Heaves become' very much alike. There is a short wheezy cough, labored
breathing when the horse is worked, and all symptoms very much worse
just after eating.

Treatment Give Conkey's Heave Relief according to directions. Put the
horse on concentrated, laxative feed, such as mashes or bran
or oats; and moisten both the grain and the hay ration with lime water.
Feed small quantities at a time, so as to avoid any danger of overloading
the stomach. The animal should be watered before feeding and never
directly after a meal, nor should it be put to work immediately after
eating. Build up the system and correct the digestion by the use of
Stock Tonic according to directions. Keep up the Stock Tonic treatment
for a considerable period — until the horse shows general improved con-
dition. It is very difficult to cure these troubles, and treatment should be
persisted in and not dropped as soon as the horse shows improvement.

AZOTURIA This is marked by a sort of paralysis of the hindquarters
which comes on suddenly when a horse starts working after
a rest of a day or so in the stable. The large muscles in the hindquarter feel
rigid, and there is no sensation. The horse goes down, and can not rise.
There is great pain, he sweats profusely, the temperature is not high, but

84 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

the pulse is very rapid. The urine is a very dark brown, almost black. The
disease is sometimes fatal in from 12 to 36 hours. The cause is known to
be over-production of nitrogenized substances, which accumulate in the
muscles and blood from high feeding during idleness. In fact, this is often
called the "Monday morning disease" because it commonly occurs after the
rest-day, Sunday.

Treatment To excite action of the skin apply hot wet blankets to the
body and cover with a dry blanket. (Or use a dry hot pack of
salt or oats.) Rub the loins with Conkey's Warming Liniment; or use
mustard for this purpose. Keep the horse on his feet, if necessary using
a sling. Give a dose of aloes 3-6 drams to clear the bowels; then give
2 drams each of bromide of potasium and iodide of potasium, and con-
tinue using these last two at intervals of 2 hours for the first day or as
may be required to calm the nervous excitement. Give a plentiful supply
of drinking water of an agreeable temperature. If necessary, draw off the
urine with a catheter. On the second day, saltpetre in ^ ounce doses may
be given twice daily to stimulate the kidneys. As the horse gets better,
put on regular feed, with Conkey's Stock Tonic mixed in it according to
directions. This will tone the whole system quickly and greatly shorten
the period of convalescence. For quick relief some veterinarians advocate
bleeding from the jugular vein, but this treatment should not be attempted
by any but experienced horsemen.

Prevention Attention to feed and exercise will prevent this accumulation
of poison in the muscles and blood. Cut down on such feeds
as oats, beans, peas, etc., when the horse is not at work. A good rule is
to give only one-half as much grain when horse is idle.

Another caution: In taking a horse out after a rest of a day or so in
the stable, go slowly and watch for the first symptoms of dullness, stiffness,
and profuse sweating; then stop immediately and get him into a box stall
for treatment. Taken in time, Azoturia is seldom fatal; but it is a very
dangerous disease when neglected until the horse goes down.

BARB-WIRE Often these are nasty things to heal but even the worst
CUTS cases respond to Conkey treatment. If the cut is slight,

dust on it Conkey's Healing Powder, which will unite the
skin and soon heal the wound over. If deeper, use Conkey's Pain Lotion
as directed, bandaging if necessary. If very deep, ragged and roomy, cleanse
thoroughly with Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, one teaspoonful in a pint of
soft water, and dress with Conkey's Pain Lotion. Pack if necessary with
gauze or oakum, soaked in Pain Lotion of Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant,
two teaspoonfuls to one pint of water. In all cases get rid of barb-wire
fencing in your pasture as its days of usefulness have passed and its
presence is a constant danger to stock.

BARRENNESS If not due to actual disease interfering with normal func-
tions this trouble can be corrected in one of the following
ways:

Treatment If over-fat put the mare in good general muscular condition by
proper exercise, work, etc., and careful feeding. If the trouble
is not due to this simple cause, it is probably owing to unnatural acidity
of the passage, and should respond to the following: Flush the vagina once
daily with a solution of 2 ounces bicarbonate of soda in one-half gallon of
water, used lukewarm. When the mare is seen to be in heat, have a veterin-
arian or other qualified person dilate the mouth of the womb and inject the
solution again. Have stallion service after one hour and before two hours.

DISEASES OF HORSES 85

General good healthy condition is necessary for breeding. This general
good condition is always secured where the animals are given Stock Tonic
occasionally for tonic, alterative treatment. Stock Tonic is an excellent
regulator, and puts the whole system in working order. It especially acts
on the. organs of digestion — and acts also on the walls of the blood vessels,
increasing their contractile power. It bXiilds health by stimulating natural
functions; hence its common-sense efficiency.

BITES OF Apply Conkey's Pain Lotion, to relieve all itching and reduce
INSECTS swelling. Pure Nox-i-cide can also be used if more convenient.
Regular use of Conkey's Fly Knocker during the season of
insect pests will protect your animals in the first place.

BIT Keep the bit out of the mouth, and heal the sores with daily

SORES swabbing with Nox-i-cide solution, using one teaspoonful in a
pint of water. Then put in a soft bit, and take care not to draw in
too tight to the angle of the mouth with the check-pieces of the bridle.

BLINDNESS The most common eye trouble is periodic ophthalmia or
"moon-blindness." Attacks usually come at night, and there
is redness, tearing, sometimes a scum or blur over the eye, with the pupil
contracted and slow to respond. After ten days or a fortnight the sight
comes back but the blind attack will return periodically. After five to eight
attacks cataract develops and the condition of blindness is then permanent.
There is no way of curing this kind of blindness, or any way of preventing
the return of attacks; but you can lengthen the period between attacks, and
hence prolong the usefulness of the animal as follows:

Treatment Look to sanitation in the stable, for unhygienic surroundings
have a good deal to do with periodic ophthalmia. Damp or wet
surroundings increase the trouble. Low vitality favors it; hence the horse
must be well cared for in general. It is supposed to be transmissible; so an
animal with moon-blindness should not be bred. Keep the horse in a dark
stall during the attack, or hang a dark cloth over the head. Apply to the
eye Conkey's Eye Remedy, using a sprayer or a camel's hair brush or
perfectly clean feather, or irrigate it with a medicine dropper, or simply swab
with a piece of sterile absorbent cotton. Treat the general condition by
giving Conkey's Stock Tonic, mixed with the regular feed, using 3 table-
spoonfuls of Stock Tonic so as to keep the bowels active. If necessary to
purge, give aloes or 1 quart of raw linseed oil.

Prevention Experiments and all observations seem to show that horses
kept in sanitary stables, with good light, good general care,
good food, etc., never have the first attack. After one attack, you can help
the general condition, lessen the pain of the attack and lengthen intervals
between attacks, but you cannot permanently cure. Look out for claims
to the contrary. We have never known a horse kept in good general condi-
tion and with Conkey's Stock Tonic used in the feed occasionally for tonic,
alterative treatment, that developed periodic ophthalmia Stock Tonic insures
good general healthful condition and acts as a preventative of the first attack.
We should like to hear from horse owners with their experience.
For description of other eye trouble read under Eyes.

BLOOD OUT Symptoms vary, such as itching, swelling, etc. Sometimes

OF ORDER actual sores or eruptions. Usually the horse shows a

rough coat and general unthrifty condition. If there are

sores, dust the surface with Conkey's Healing Powder as directed. To

86

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

prevent itching, wash the surface with a solution of Nox-i-cide Dip and Dis-
infectant, one teaspoonful in a pint of water, which will also save any chance
of infection. This is surface treatment merely; but it takes more than sur-
face treatment to correct blood condition. Hence look well to the feed,
and give the animal tonic treatment with Conkey's Stock Tonic, mixed with
the regular feed as directed. Keep this up for a week or two weeks', until
the animal shows good condition. This tonic will be found mildly laxative
and will keep the system open. But if a purge is needed give raw linseed
oil. Never use castor oil for horses, as so often directed. Castor oil can
be safely given to other livestock and to human beings; but it is frequently
poisonous to horseflesh.

BOG SPAVIN— This is a soft swelling usually on the inner side of
BLOOD SPAVIN the hock, the result of some fault in the natural con-
formation of the animal; so that under special exer-
tion (such as accident or hard pulling) there is a rupture or strain which
causes an excessive secretion of the synovial flui 1 in the hock, causing a
distension of the bursal sac, (a condition known as Bog Spavin) ; or dilating
the vein just under the skin (which condition is known as Blood Spavin).
The two conditions are easily confused. But a Bog Spavin is really a
tumor, while a Blood Spavin is a varicose vein.

Symptoms The symptoms of Blood Spavin, or of Bog Spavin, are lame-
ness, stiffness, with a soft, fluctuating swelling on the front
or inner side of the hock, sometimes hot to the touch and showing general
inflammation. Once started, the disease is in one sense hereditary, since
the defect in conformation which caused it can be inherited.

Treatment Alternate applications of hot and cold water bandages should
be made in the early stages. If the part is much inflamed, treat
with Conkey's Pain Lotion to reduce the pain and inflamation, then apply
Conkey's Absorbent according to directions. This will disperse or absorb
the gathering without the pain and disfigurement of a blister, and does
away with the cruel firing so often resorted to unnecessarily. The Absorb-
ent does its work without blistering, leaving no permanent scar or blemish.

BOTS These are larvae of the gad-
fly, which attach themselves to
the walls of the stomach and intes-
tines. The larvae are developed
from eggs laid on the hair of the
horse's body in summer, on the lower
part of the neck, shoulders, and inner
parts of the forelegs, around the knees,
where they are easily licked off by the
horse and so find their way to the
stomach. If taken into the stomach
between the tenth and thirteenth day
after they are deposited, these eggs
will develop into bots. Bots have been
known to cause colic pains, but they Larvae Of the hot fly, at- Adult hot flies
are usually harmless, except in large tached to wails of stomach
numbers. In rare cases they have been
known to work to the peritoneum, and thus cause death.

Symptoms are a general unthrifty condition; presence of the matured bots
in the droppings, especially noticeable in the spring of the year.
Symptoms of general indigestion may be due to this cause.

DISEASES OF HORSES 87

Prevention is the best treatment, as follows: During July, August and
September examine the horse on pasture every three or four
days and if the eggs are found clip them off or rub off, using a cloth or
brush dipped in Nox-i-cide solution, two teaspoonfuls to one pint of water.
Spraying the horse regularly, with Conkey's Fly Knocker will prevent the
fly or "bee" from alighting.

BRONCHITIS This disease is sometimes the effect of damp, badly ven-
tilated stables, or it may follow an attack of influenza.
Any irritating substance in the air, dust or smoke, may cause it. Look
about for the cause and correct it.

Symptoms are rapid breathing, with rattling in the windpipe, especially
in the chest; deep cough, which grows looser. There is more
or less fever and high pulse, although these symptoms subside as the con-
dition becomes chionic.

Treatment First relieve the symptoms by covering
with a hot blanket and rub the sides of
the chest with Conkey's Warming Liniment; or you
can use mustard paste made up with vinegar. Give
this rubbing twice a day. A wet p.ack about the
chest is also good, but care must be taken not to
/» let the horse get chilled in any way. Make the
animal inhale steam from a pail of boiling water to
which has been added 2 tablespoonfuls of Conkey's
Pain Lotion or instead of a pail you can use the nose
bag. Of course, the patient should be in a dry, well-
ventilated box-stall, the temperature kept at about
65 degrees Fahrenheit as nearly as possible. For in-
Steaming the nostrils ternal treatment, give Conkey's Distemper and
Fever Remedy, 1 tablet 3 times a day as
directed. The animal should be on sick diet, such

as bran mash, roots, grass, etc., which will have a laxative effect. As soon
as the horse is on regular feed, Conkey's Stock Tonic should be mixed with
the feed according to directions. This will keep the system open, and also
build up the strength, toning and invigorating the body, so as to bring
the patient back to normal good health.

BRUISED OR If there is merely a breaking of the skin put on a

BROKEN KNEE compress, and keep the part saturated all the time with

Conkey's Pain Lotion until all inflammation is gone.

keeping the horse's head tied up so that he can not lie down on the injured
part before it heals. If there is no inflammation, simply a cut, dust the place
with Conkey's Healing Powder, which will heal over quickly. If the cut
is deep, clip the hair and wash the part with Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant
using a 1 per cent, solution, that is 1 teaspoonful to 1 pint of water;
dry thoroughly, then dress with Pain Lotion and bandage. Repeat this
dressing once a day, with pressure, where bandage can be applied. In a
bad case, use splints. If the part gets very hot or swells, pus is forming,
and the bandage should come off and this matter be drained off at once,
and the wound irrigated with antiseptic solution, 1 teaspoonful Nox-i-cide
to 1 pint of water; then dry thoroughly, dress with Pain Lotion and ban-
dage. Dress daily until there is no more discharge. When the

88 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

is thoroughly healed, apply Conkey's Absorbent over the whole* joint.
Throughout this treatment keep the animal on laxative feed, Conkey's
Stock Tonic will be excellent mixed with the feed, as it will keep the bowels
open, and allay any tendency to feverish condition.

BURNS— See Scalds, page 109.

CAPPED ELBOW This is an inflammation of synovial or lubricat-

HOCK AND ing sacs or "bursae" beneath the skin or under

KNEE the tendons, due to bruised structure under the

cap of the hock or elbow, caused by accident or

some injury such as rubbing the hock in the stable, night kicking, or by
the shoes of the fore feet pressing or striking on the elbow when the
horse is lying down.

Symptoms are unsightly swelling of the hock or elbow, usually hot and
tender, and filled with serum or blood; sometimes there is
no pain, and the swelling may fluctuate. When chronic, there is a thicken-
ing of the structures.

Treatment consists in the complete rest of the part, and continuous wet
antiseptic dressings, using Conkey's Pain Lotion on a bandage
or in a pack made of bran. The bran pack, wet with Conkey's Nox-i-cide
Dip and Disinfectant, 1 teaspoonful in a pint of soft water, will be thor-
oughly antiseptic, and very efficient, though not so soothing a treatment
as Conkey's Pain Lotion. When the inflammation is out paint with Conkey's
Absorbent, without rubbing. If the swelling is very large it should be
opened to let the fluid or matter out, then regularly dressed as already
described. If the case is chronic and contains a hard tumor-like bunch
it should be cut out. A roomy box stall will prevent most cases of
capped elbow, giving the animal room to lie comfortably without crowding
the heal of the shoe on the elbow; or the shoe heel can be shortened, or
a large stuffed ring can be adjusted around the leg above the foot. Plenty
of bedding usually saves an animal from capped hock and capped knees;
unless the horse has the habit of pawing the bedding. Hobbling the hind
feet may keep the horse from striking the hock in kicking.

CASTRATION Colts are usually castrated when one year old; the best
season being spring or fall when grass is good, the
weather moderate, and there is no danger from flies. The operation may
be performed when the colt is younger, which is easier and safer for the
colt; but when performed too early, it tends to light development of the
fore part of the animal. The operation is perfectly safe when attention
is given to sterilizing the knife and keeping the animal in sanitary, disinfected
quarters. Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, one-half pint in a gallon of
water is a perfect disinfectant and germicide, and can be used to sterilize
the knife and also to spray about the quarters. These simple precautions are
no more than would be necessary for any surgical operation. The animal
should be thrown, and the operation should be in charge of a qualified
veterinarian. For at least two weeks after the operation give the colt
special care, keeping him out of the wet or cold. Give him mash feed or
other light diet Conkey's Stock Tonic mixed with the feed will keep the
system open, and act as an excellent tonic.

CATARRH This is an inflamed condition of the mucous membranes,
COLD usually the result of a neglected cold, or it may come on from

exposure. In nasal catarrh there is an offensive discharge from one nostril,

DISEASES OF HORSES

shivering, perhaps a cough and inflamed eyes. The horse loses appetite and
shows a generally unthrifty appearance.

Treatment Spray the nostrils or swab with Conkey's Pain Lotion, or
steam the nostrils with a nosebag or a pail of boiling water,
using 1 oz. of Pain Lotion to 1 quart of hot water. Repeat 4 or 5 times
a day if necessary, following directions under Pneumonia. If the throat is
sore rub freely with Pain Lotion from ear to ear. Do not work the horse too
soon but keep it warm, well fed on soft laxative feed, and steam the nostrils
night and morning. Mix with the feed Conkey's Stock Tonic, as an appe-
tizer and for general tonic treatment that will tend to lessen the discharge.
A good bran mash, well salted with the home-made Stock Salt already
described (9 parts common barrel salt and 1 part Conkey's Stock Tonic)
makes an excellent feed for a horse suffering from catarrhal cold or any
feverish condition combined with cold.

CHOREA— ST. This is a nervous disorder, most often affecting young
VITUS DANCE animals. It shows as involuntary twitchings and move-
ments. Usually there is a jerking of the head or neck
or some part of the body. When the trouble is with the muscles of the
hind legs we call it Stringhalt.

Treatment is not very satisfactory. Rest and attention to sanitary con-
ditions are important, with plenty of fresh air and rather rich,
fatty food. In early stages a dose of 1 fluid ounce syrup of iodide of iron
and one-half dram of powdered nux vpmica, one ounce powdered scutel-
laria, one dram powdered anise seed, will do some good, given in the food
once a day for two weeks. Conkey's Stock Tonic mixed with the grain
feed is helpful as it eliminates body poisons and tones the general functions.
Stock Tonic will not cure Chorea, but it will improve the condition and
give nature a chance to effect a cure if cure is possible.

COLIC *Any abdominal pain is usually called Colic. But true Colic is due
to trouble somewhere in the digestive tract. Such trouble is com-
mon in horses because of the great size and length of the intestines. With
cattle, digestive troubles come almost entirely from the stomach; but with
the horse the exact opposite is the case. The stomach of the horse forms a
small part of the digestive tract, food is soon out of it but remains a long
time in the intestines, of which there are about 100 feet. Probably 16 hours is
the usual time, but often food masses remain ,for days so that poison accumu-
late and with heat and moisture germs develop rapidly. If the system is
kept open, as with Stock Tonic treatments, the food masses do not accumu-
late; and any germs taken in with the food or water pass out of the body.
If the bowels are kept clear there is really little danger from common
digestive troubles or from germs which may be taken in along with the
food. Watering the horse frequently is a help to keep the system open.

Treatment Must be prompt. If possible put the horse in a well-bedded
box stall, but give immediately a dose of Conkey's Colic
Remedy according to directions. The dose is small and can be given even
in case of a sudden attack on the road. Then following directions on
package, give a purge to clear the bowels. Or, with the hand clean out
the hard, dry fecal matter as far as possible and make an injection of 3 or 4
quarts of^ warm water, using a tablespoonful of Nox-i-cide Dip and Disin-
fectant. If this is not at hand use soap or salt in the warm ^ water; ^inject
with a hose and funnel. Rub the belly with Conkey's Warming Liniment,
then blanket the horse. Feed lightly for 24 hours. Do not exercise the

*For Enteritis (Inflammation of the Bowels), see page 93.

90 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

horse until all symptoms are over. Correct the mistakes in feeding which
caused the trouble in the first place, and keep in mind that colic can be
prevented largely by feeding regularly good feed, never overfeeding, and
keeping a medicated salt before the animal, such as common barrel salt 9
parts and 1 part Conkey's Stock Tonic, mixed thoroughly and put where
the horse can help himself. Also do not overwork your horse, or expose
him to sudden changes, or water heavily when he is tired and over-heated.

COLIC — (Wind or Colic attacks vary, so keep in mind the following:

Flatulent) If there is gas from fermentation the belly will

become swollen, the pulse rise, and the animal will

show great weakness. He will move with evident pain and may or may not
lie down. The expression of pain will be more constant than in the case of
spasmodic colic.

Treatment Give Conkey's Colic Remedy to relieve the condition. If
possible, have a qualified person tap the horse in the right
side, as directed under Bloat in Cattle. (In the case of the horse, the right
side, not the left, is punctured.) If the puncture is kept open with the
canula, or a large quill, it will hardly be necessary to repeat the operation;
but if called upon to do so it will be necessary to make a new puncture.
Clean out the rectum with the hand, oiled for the purpose, then inject warm
water as described above. For quick action of the bowels give a dose of 8
grams of barium chloride dissolved in a little water. This drug will act
very quickly and while it will increase the pain temporarily it will not so
much as arecoline or eserine. If the bowels do not move within one hour
you may give one more dose of 8 grams of barium chloride, but this is
seldom necessary.

COLIC (Engorgement) In this form of colic, overloading the stomach, the

best treatment is simply to get a veterinarian to

remove the fermenting contents with a stomach pump of the double-tube
type. Drugs by mouth are practically useless. Belching, retching, difficult
breathing, and the well-known dog-sitting position are common symptoms
of Engorgement or Indigestion Colic.

COLLAR BOIL Badly fitting collars cause a heap of trouble ranging
all the way from simple bruises to serious abscesses.

If simply a surface sore, dust with Conkey's Healing Powder and the place
will heal over quickly. If an abscess is formed, containing pus or serum,
the swelling will have to be opened and this matter drained off. Treat as
directed under Abscess.

CONDITION Start at once with Conkey's Stock Tonic, mixed in the
RUN DOWN feed. This will increase the appetite, insure full digestion,
tone up the body organs, increase circulation and if there
are any worms in the stomach or intestines it will cause them to pass out
of the system. Put the horse on good feed; and see that he has good general
care, with plenty of fresh air in the stable and all necessary exercise ^-''ve
the quarters a general cleaning; and use Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant
in the cleaning water, or spray with this solution. General disinfecting
of the premises is a wise precaution whenever an animal is ailing, as the
body is then most liable to infection.

When looking around for the cause of the trouble, do not forget the
teeth, for they may be needing attention.

Stock salt, made up according to our simple directions for medicated
salt, namely: Common barrel salt, 90 Ibs., Conkey's Stock Tonic, 10 ibs.,

DISEASES OF HORSES 91

(two $1 packages) mixed thoroughly and kept in a dry place, where the
horses can help themselves will prove a general conditioner, which can be
safely left before the animals all the time as there is no danger of their
overdosing when they are allowed to help themselves. This is a general
anti-parasite mixture, as well as an appetizer and tonic, and will prevent
worms, etc., in the stomach and intestines. If there are external parasites,
such as lice, get rid of these promptly by the use of Nox-i-cide Dip and
Disinfectant, diluting with water according to directions. Apply with a
stiff brush, beginning at the head and rub briskly. If weather is cool,
blanket the animal, so as to avoid any danger of catching cold from this
treatment.

CONSTIPATION IN This is usually best corrected by changing from
HORSES dry feed to roots, grass or green forage. Be sure

to give the horse all the water he wants to drink.

Conkey's Stock Tonic twice a day will increase the intestinal secretions
and keep the system open. The regular use of Conkey's Stock Salt (see page
46) would prevent this common trouble. Regular exercise is also a pre-
ventative. In foals, give 2 to 4 ounces castor oil, or a soapsud injection.

CORNS These are usually found in the inner heels of the fore feet as
the result of bruises, often from pressure of the shoe. Usually
the horse goes lame. If the corn is neglected pus may form, and if still
neglected may even make its way out around the coronet, that is, top of
the hoof, when the case becomes "quittor." It is wrong to keep cutting
corns away, until the hoof bleeds and bleeds, as so many blacksmiths do.

Treatment Pare away the sole a little and put a few drops of Conkey's
Absorbent on the corn, which will give immediate relief.
Have the shoer lower the inside quarter to relieve the heel, and the corns
will not come back. Of course if the corn has been neglected and is
suppurating, it will be necessary to give a free vent to all the matter; then
insert a plug of oakum soaked in Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant solution,
one-half teaspoonful to a cup of water. Sometimes it is necessary to put
on a warm bran poultice; which, mix with a little hot water, adding a little
Nox-i-cide, say a half-teaspoonful, to bran enough to fill one poultice boot.

CONGESTION OF This is most liable to occur in the spring and fall

THE LUNGS months — sometimes as the result of exertion when

not in condition, or too sudden cooling off after hard

exercise. The symptoms are fast breathing — sometimes a short hard pain-
ful cough; the horse hangs his head down, eyes are wild and staring, the
legs straddled. Temperature and pulse are high.

Treatment Blanket at once and rub Conkey's Warming Liniment into the
sides of the chest; or in emergency you can use mustard and
water. A stimulant is needed so give one-fourth pint of whiskey every hour
until relief. If necessary to relieve the bowels give a warm soap-sud injec-
tion up the rectum, using an ordinary rubber tube and funnel. Put the horse
on light diet, adding Conkey's Stock Tonic according to directions. Con-
tinue the Stock Tonic treatment in the regular feed for at least two weeks.

COUGH See that the feed is not musty or dusty. If any dust arises
from the hay, sprinkle it before feeding. If possible put the
horse on grass for a while. Sometimes the symptom is traced to poor
ventilation. Often it is due to neglected colds or other diseases.

92 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

Treatment is as follows: Give Conkey's Horse Tonic as directed, with
feed, and three times a day give a cough paste, or electuary
made up as follows:

One tablet Conkey's Distemper Remedy, ground flaxseed or ground elm
bark and molasses sufficient to make up a paste or "soft solid" which can
be smeared on the gums, tongue or teeth with a wooden spoon. This
will be taken up by the saliva and carried down the throat over the irri-
tated membranes, healing and easing the condition. If Conkey's Distemper
Remedy is not at hand, ease the cough by rubbing the throat with Conkey's
Warming Liniment; or in emergency use turpentine or mustard. Be sure
to keep the horse warm, but have plenty of ventilation. Do not neglect a
cough, for it may run into heaves.

CRACKED This condition is very similar to Scratches; which, also read.
HEELS It is common in the spring and may be the result of working

in sloppy weather or in cold drafts, freezing mud, etc., or in
slush or mud after a thaw. Unsanitary stables and bad conditions for the
feet may cause it; although certain horses are constitutionally more liable
to it than are others. A horse that stocks badly may weaken the part, and
it may crack. Overfeeding of grain, or unwholesome fodder may also cause
it. Treatment is the same as for Scratches, page 109.

CRIBBING This is not a disease, but a bad habit, a "stable vice," and
while strictly incurable, it can be lessened by putting the cul-
prit in a box stall, where there is nothing on which he can rest teeth or
jaw. Feed from a shallow box with oval edges, and do not let the horse
have a chance at any sharp corners. It is a good idea to put the feed-box
directly on the floor; as a horse will not crib on anything that is lower
than the knees. There is another reason for putting a crib-biter into a box
stall; namely, to get him away from the rest of the horses, so that they
will not learn the same habit by imitation.

CURB This is a swelling on the back of the hind legs, usually about
three inches below the point of the hock, caused by strain of the
back tendons of the hock joint, the result of slipping, jumping, backing, etc.
Horses with over-bent or "sickle-shaped" hocks are most liable to curb;
hence it is sometimes called hereditary. The swelling at the back of the
hock is hard, and at first there is lameness but usually this does not last
longer than a month.

Treatment In the early stages rub the curb swelling with Pain Lotion
and put on a tight bandage. This will take out inflammation,
and often will entirely cure the curb in a week or ten days. In other
stages, apply Conkey's Absorbent as directed on package.

DIARRHEA Looseness of the bowels is nature's way of trying to rid the
intestines of matter harmful to the body. Diarrhea is more
a symptom than a disease. Usually it shows imperfect digestion, tho it
may be caused by worms or by purgative medicines. There is frequent
discharge of semi-fluid dung and sometimes colicky pains. If continued,
the animal loses flesh and appetite and shows a decided tendency to "run
down". The first thing to do is to decide upon the cause, which may be

DISEASES OF HORSES 93

watering the animal when heated, or feeding musty or indigestible food,
or a sudden change from dry to moist feed, bad teeth, which cause indi-
gestion, or exposure to drafts when overheated. Correct the fault and put
the animal on light feed. Do not try to check the diarrhea suddenly, but
give a purge of 1^> pints raw linseed oil (not castor oil) to clear the bowels,
and relieve the pain by rubbing the belly with Conkey's Warming Liniment,
then blanket warmly.

If the diarrhea does not cease after the oil has operated give wheaten
or arrow root gruels warm, or white oak bark tea (1 ounce to pint of
water) three times a day. Soon as the bowel discharges lessen put the ani-
mal on regular treatment with Conkey's Stock Tonic to stimulate and tone
up the system. Feed rather lightly and keep the animal quiet.

(DYSENTERY) Develops from neglected diarrhea or from tuberculosis
of the intestines. In dysentery blood and mucus are

mixed with the discharge. Give dose of oil and follow same treatment as
above.

(ENTERITIS) is inflammation of the bowels and is very fatal, especially
where there is diarrhea. The hoise is in constant pain,
with quickened pulse and the strength is very much affected, all marked
differences from Colic. The belly is very tender and should not be rubbed,
but hot applications usually benefit. About the best treatment is to
quiet the sufferer with powdered opium 2 drams, calomel Y?. dram, made
into a ball, and repeated in two hours if seems necessary. Physicing will
be apt to cause death. Recovery is doubtful in any case; but if the horse
convalesces, the diet must be watched carefully. Bran mash made with lin-
seed tea or slippery elm bark tea is recommended by some veterinarians, and
in general boiled food should be given. Water in small quantities but often.
An exclusive diet of skim milk for a week or so is urged by some authori-
ties.

Above suggestions are given in case the owner cannot get hold of a
qualified veterinarian and must treat the case as best he can. Of course,
with all serious ailments we advise that if possible a veterinarian be called
to watch the case, but directions here given are all made as definite and
practical as possible as in many instances the owner must do the best he
can for the animal himself. Advice is given with the assurance that it is
thoroughly up-to-date and reliable practice, but with the caution that special
conditions must be considered in each case.

DIGESTIVE Wherever there is digestive disturbance, use Conkey's Stock
DISORDERS Tonic to correct the disorder and also for tonic treatment.
As a general preventative" we advise occasional use of Con-
key's Stock Tonic as directed, or regular use of the special formula already
recommended; 90 Ibs. common barrel salt, 10 Ibs. Conkey's Stock Tonic,
mixed thoroughly, kept dry. This makes a hundred pound mixture at a cost
not to exceed $2.50 the hundred. For efficiency it will do all that is claimed
for any medicated, veterinary, stock salt, at a cost of only 2^2 cents a pound,
at the highest estimate. It will serve as an appetizer and tonic, and have
a very beneficial^ effect on the general condition of the animal. At the same
time it is what is called an anti-parasite mixture, and will keep the animal
free from internal parasites. We highly recommend this mixture (1) for
efficiency, (2) convenience of doctoring, as the animals have access to it
and help themselves, just as they need it, without any danger of overdosing,
(3) cheapness, costing less than 2^ cents a pound, (4) lasting qualities — the
above 100 Ibs. being sufficient for 25 head of live-stock for full two
months.

94 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

Acute indigestion requires, as the first active treatment, a purge. For
horses, use raw linseed oil, and not castor oil; as castor oil is now under
suspicion of modern veterinarians as being injurious to horses. It may be
used safely with all other animals. In all cases see if the teeth need atten-
tion.

DISINFECTING— The horse is the most sensitive of animals; and he is
DEODORIZING especially liable to infection from contaminated sur-
roundings. A horse responds very quickly to any

medical treatment; but of itself has comparatively little resistance to disease,
whereas most animals have a great deal of resistance. Prevention is the
safe, cheap method; and to disinfect regularly and thoroughly is one of
the surest ways of keeping free from disease. Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and
Disinfectant, which mixes with water, makes a highly satisfactory general
disinfectant, deodorizer and germ-killer, cheap enough to be used liberally.
You can ward off many threatening diseases if you attack them at the germ
stage. You never know just where the danger may be lurking, and the
only safe way is to disinfect thoroughly and frequently, going over walls,
floors, etc., as elsewhere described. A good way to use Conkey's Nox-i-cide
Dip and Disinfectant is right in the scrub pail or wash water. A half cupful
to the pail makes cheap disinfectant solution. Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfect-
ant is handy for many emergencies. In case of cuts, wounds, etc., you
must treat with an antiseptic first, and often with this attention the trouble
will right itself without further treatment. Keep Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip
and Disinfectant ready for use, and use it. You don't have to be too careful,
since it mixes with water and is cheap. Every drop of it is effective. Get
Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant and keep it handy, ready for instant use.
Point it out to the new stableman, so he will know just where to find it.

DISLOCATION After the bones have been replaced, apply freely Con-
key's Pain Lotion. This will ease the suffering and
take out any inflammation.

DISTEMPER See Influenza, Pink Eye, Distemper or Strangles.

ECZEMA — Thorough grooming and cleansing of the skin is one

SADDLE MANGE of the best precautions against these disorders of

the skin. Common soap sometimes causes the

trouble. Exposure to constant rain is another cause. The use of Conkey's
Pino in the grooming will often be the only treatment necessary, as it is
an antiseptic and stimulating application. See directions for mixing with
water. In the scabby, scaly form the parts should be well soaked over
night in olive oil or Conkey's Pain Lotion, then washed with pure soap and
water. Use same treatment for the suppurating forms of this disease,
usually seen about the mane and tail. With these the hair should be clipped
first, so as to get direct application. Any sores or chafed surfaces on the
body will quickly heal over when dusted with Conkey's Healing Powder.
Healing Powder should always be used under saddles, collars, etc., to pre-
vent galling and chafing.

EYES Inflammation and temporary disorders of the eye should be
treated with Conkey's Eye Remedy sprayed or annointed by
means of a clean feather, a camel's hair brush or piece of sterile cotton.
Exclude light from the eyes as far as possible during the attack, if necessary
hanging a dark cloth over the head. Sometimes there are parasites in the
eye (Filaria Papillosa) which show as floating threads in the aqueous humor
of the anterior chamber of the eye, which can be removed by a surgical

DISEASES OF HORSES ; 95

operation. Cataract or general cloudiness or specking of the lens can be
relieved by removal of the lens; but as this leaves imperfect vision, the
operation is hardly worth while.

Where the attacks are periodic with symptoms of inflammation, tearing,
and a cloudy or pearly color of the eyes with extreme sensitiveness to
light, the disease is moon-blindness; and is incurable after six to eight
attacks. General treatment as already given under moon-blindness will
lessen the frequency of the attacks, and postpone the bad day of incurable
blindness. Follow directions carefully.

EXOSTOSIS Any bony bunch or outgrowth from the bone should be
treated with Conkey's Absorbent, applied as directed for
Spavin, Ringbone, Sidebone, Splint, etc.

FEET Watch the feet all the time; for small causes lead to serious trouble
with Contracted feet. Thrush in clefts of the feet, Corns, Quittor,
Sandcrack, Canker, Speedycut, Split Hoof, etc. Dressing with Conkey's
Hoof Remedy will keep the feet from drying out unduly, as they are liable
to do when horses are worked on hard, dry roads or stand on hard floors in
stables. Watch the growth of horn, for uneven growth of the hoof brings
about a change in balance — causing change of action, so that very serious
troubles such as splint, spavin, curb, etc., are liable to follow. Many
injuries to the foot are preventable, and whether preventable or not, are
simplified when given immediate treatment, as in the case of corns, punc-
ture, nail wrongly driven in the hoof, etc. Unsanitary conditions under-foot
are a prime cause of disease. Clean up regularly and disinfect with
Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, or any reliable disinfectant. Such diseases
as Thrush, Canker, etc., are usually the result of neglect of sanitary condi-
tion. Keep the filth out of the stall, and see that the floor properly drains.
Keep the feet clean, then with a brush apply Conkey's Hoof Remedy regu-
larly. Put some on the coronary band as well as on the hoof proper; and
if the foot needs a pack stuff with bran and Conkey's Hoof Remedy, which
makes the best possible hoof packing. Or, you can use Nox-i-cide with
bran, which also makes an antiseptic dressing.

FEVER Where the temperature rises above normal, as the result of
some exposure, or some fault of digestion or derangement of
bowels or bladder, so that the system poisons are absorbed instead of passing
from the body, the best treatment is rest, careful diet, and for medicine,
Conkey's Distemper and Fever Remedy in doses as directed. Keep the
animal in a comfortable stall, if possible a box stall, with the temperature
as near 60 or 65 degrees Fahrenheit as possible — free from draughts but
with plenty of fresh air for breathing. He will not have much appetite,
but make the ration as attractive as possible, giving such food as grass, bran
mash, carrots, etc. Give the horse plenty of fresh pure water of an agree-
able temperature. Conkey's Stock Tonic in the feed will increase appetite
and also tone up the body functions.

FISTULA A fistula is a swelling containing tube-like channels through
which the pus or matter discharges. Usually they are located
on the neck and withers. Fistula of the foot is called Quittor, which see.
Fistula is generally due to a bruise or other injury of the withers from a
blow, pressure of the harness or catching the neck on a beam, bruising the
ligaments and sometimes the bony structure, as at the withers. The promi-
nence of the withers makes them liable to accident of this sort. There is
inflammation of the bursae or lubricating sacs, as in Bursitis. A painful, soft
swelling develops on one or both sides of the withers, filled with blood-

96 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

V

tinged watery fluid, not like the pus of an ordinary abscess. If the matter
burrows, it may result in disease of the shoulder blade or the cartilage or
spines of the vertebrae. The danger from fistula is increased the deeper
it goes, just as in Poll Evil. For successful treatment the fistula must be
"bottomed," that is, probed to the bottom, and thoroughly drained, as in
the case of any deep abscess.

Treatment Hot or cold water fomentations will help the condition, but
as soon as possible get Conkey's Poll Evil Remedy and use
as directed on package. If taken at an early stage, simple treatment with
Conkey's Pain Lotion will often effect a cure.

FLIES Protection from flies is not only humane, but practical sense in
caring for your valuable property. A horse tormented by flies
loses flesh, chafes and spoils in spirit, wears out his shoes by stamping,
kicks and stamps out floors, and sometimes cracks a hoof. In addition,
the flies lay eggs on the horse's body, whence they are licked off and find
lodgment in the animal's stomach and so we find the common ailment
called "bots in the stomach," which sometimes cause serious digestive
trouble. Prevention of these various evils is easy with the use of Conkey's
Fly Knocker, which if sprayed frequently on the animal will keep the flies
from alighting, or it can be used to kill the grub already deposited on the
body. Sprayed on walls, it helps to keep flies out of the stable. Sprayed
on manure heaps, it kills the -pests at their breeding place, and so settles
the fly problem for a whole neighborhood, and promotes not only the
comfort but the health of the neighborhood, as flies are known to be the
carriers of typhoid and many other germ diseases.

FOUNDER — This is severe inflammation of the sensitive parts of the
LAMINITIS foot, the Laminae, or leaf-like structures which surround
the end and sides of the coffin-bone and are enclosed within
the horny hoof. When these sensitive laminae are congested they press
upon the hard walls of the hoof and the pain is intense; and especially
when the horse is made to move or stand. Horses with flat feet, weak
heels or those suffering from any lameness are most liable to this sudden
inflammation of the feet, which may be brought on by any one of a variety
of causes, such as sudden cooling off, drinking too much cold water, over-
eating, especially eating new wheat and barley, new pats and new hay,
when already in overfat condition; overdriving, bad shoeing or any constant
strain on the feet may cause founder.

Symptoms Attacks are sudden; the horse seems afraid to put any weight
on the feet affected. In a bad attack it is hard to get the
horse to move at all. There is fever and a quick, full strong pulse, excited
breathing and distended nostrils. The hoofs are hot to the touch, and if
tapped with a hammer the animal groans with pain.

Treatment The advice sometimes given to "run the horses hard" seems
to us unwarranted and cruel. Get the horse off his feet, which
will relieve the pain considerably, then as quickly and gently as possible
take off the shoes and foment the feet for one half hour with hot water
applications, changing then to cold applications and continuing this treat-
ment for several hours. Then apply Conkey's Pain Lotion liberally, and
poultice, using a bandage or a poultice boot. Meanwhile give Conkey's
Distemper and Fever Remedy for internal treatment, as directed on pack-
ages. Blanketing the animal will benefit by inducing perspiration.

DISEASES OF HORSES 97

If in two days the condition is not improved, that is, if fever and sore-
ness seem to be increasing, the sole of the foot should be thinned and an
opening made to let out any pus, then dress with Pain Lotion and replace
the bandage or poultice. After the inflammation is all out, say in ten days
or two weeks, apply Conkey's Absorbent to the pastern. This will stimu-
late activity and prevent the wasting away of the soft structures, and thus
avoid danger of contraction of the feet, as in Chronic Founder. Also use
Conkey's Hoof Remedy regularly to keep the hoof in healthy condition and
prevent the unsightly deformities so often exhibited as the after results
of Founder.

GALLS Saddle and Collar Galls are most common, but galls may come
wherever there is chafing from dirty or badly fitting harness.
Sometimes defective conformation causes them, and this requires that the
saddle or collar be altered to fit the animal for which it is wanted. Some-
times this means only a little change in the padding; but even if necessary
to re-make the saddle or collar this should be carefully attended to in order
to insure the full usefulness of the animal. After the sore, chafed spot is
once formed it is easily liable to infection, so that dirty, neglected harness
often leads to serious trouble. Trouble usually starts with a puffy swelling;
then the hair comes out, finally there is an open sore.

Treatment is very simple. Conkey's Healing Powder sprinkled on the surface
twice a day will speedily cure even a bad case, for it works
rapidly. If the sore has been neglected a long time or other treatment
has failed to heal it, so that it has worked deeper, it should first be dressed
with Conkey's Pain Lotion, which will keep the tissues soft, while healing.
Results are not so quick as with the Healing Powder, but in the case of a
deep sore it is of course not safe to heal too quickly from the outside,
but to give the inner affected tissue plenty of time to heal from the bottom
up before closing the surface.

Prevention consists in fitting the collar or saddle to the horse that wears
it, dusting the skin with Conkey's Healing Powder wherever
there is liability of chafing, cleaning all dirt from collars, etc., and wiping
with a damp cloth and a few drops of Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disin-
fectant, which will keep the harness soft and free from the hard dirt ridges,
so apt to cause chafing and pretty sure to be the source of germ infection.

GLANDERS These incurable diseases are invariably due to contagion
AND FARCY from other affected animals, and are in fact so highly infec-
tious that it is not lawful to treat any animal suffering with
Glanders or Farcy, the law requiring that the horse be destroyed as soon
as proof of the disease is established by re-action to the test with mallein.
The general symptoms are hard swelling of the glands under the jaw,
which appear to be fixed to the side of the jaw. There is no discharge from
the swelling but there is a discharge from the nostril, (usually the left
nostril) the result of an ulcerous condition of the lining membrane of the
nasal passage. This discharge should not be confused with that in simple
catarrh, strangles, or influenza, these latter being more constant. The
discharge has no odor, is glutinous, and in acute stages is straw color. When
pustular eruptions appear on the skin the disease is called Farcy. In acute
stages of Farcy the glands of the leg ulcerate, and the limb suddenly swells
up to enormous proportions. Glanders and Farcy are really the same dis-
ease, Glanders affecting especially the membrane of the nose and air-
passages of the horse, while in Farcy the nodules (Farcy Buds) are on
the surface.

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

Treatment is not warrantable, although iodine is undoubtedly helpful.
Where Glanders is suspected from discharges that would
indicate internal lesions, or where the condition is shown by external
lesion's, as in the case of Farcy, the law requires the mallein test, and if
there is temperature re-action to the injection of mallein, the animal must
be destroyed, its carcass and all woodwork in contact with the discharges
must be burned, and the whole quarters thoroughly disinfected. Nothing
is better for the purpose than a thorough washing of the infected quarters
with a strong solution of Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant.

If healthy animals are exposed, they must be injected under the skin
with mallein, which serves as a protection.

GREASE HEEL This disease is very troublesome. It has some similar-
ity to Scratches, being an inflammation of the skin of

the heel, from exposure to cold and wet, or standing in liquid manure, or it
may be from general neglect and wrong treatment of an eczema condition
of the skin. The condition shows as inflammation in patches, the skin
affected has a moist, greasy feel; sometimes there is an ulcerated condition
with more or less foul discharge. In addition to this inflammation of the
heel there may be a swelling of the leg, resulting in scabby sores.

Treatment, paint with Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, full
,~t^- sStrength,. -several times, then bathe carefully with a solution
x>f, tjji£ same, using ,2;teaspoonfuls in one pint of water. This will usually
c.ure quickly, but if the condition does not improve rapidly, dust on a little
ok Cprikey's; Healing. Powder. For internal treatment put the horse on
tGptnJcey's -;$to'ck Tonic, mixed with the regular feed. Animals in good
bipod are not, liable to this disease; and we advise, as general preventive
measure, the use of the special veterinary salt mixture elsewhere recom-
mended as a general conditioner; namely, 9 parts common barrel salt, 1
part Conkey's Stock Tonic, mixed thoroughly and kept in a dry place, where
the horse can help himself as needed. Used in this way, there is no danger
of the animal overdosing; he will take it as needed, and by doctoring him-
self, save many threatened disorders.

HALTER This stable vice can be cured as follows: put an old saddle
PULLING on the horse; then take about twelve feet of half-inch rope,
pass this around the rump under the tail, bring the ends
forward through the line rings of the saddle and then through the ring of
the halter under the chin and tie the ends of the rope as a halter strap
would be tied.

HARD HOOF Hard or drying hoofs can be easily prevented by regular
use of Conkey's Hoof Remedy, used according to simple
directions on package.

HARNESS AND Conkey's Healing Powder prevents and cures. Read
COLLAR GALLS treatment under Galls.

HEAVES This common and troublesome disease is easily known by the
quick, labored breathing, sharp, short cough, and the catch in
"the flank with each expulsion of the air in breathing. In its first stages
the "heaving" and coughing are merely nervous symptoms, and the real
trouble is with the digestion. When a horse develops "heaves" usually the
feeding system is at fault. Feeding clover hay, feeding inferior or musty
or damaged hay, or too much roughage (that is, too much bulky, innutri-
tious feed), any of these are liable to cause Heaves. Feed more grain and
less hay if your horse inclines to Heaves. Other probable causes are bad

DISEASES OF HORSES 99

ventilation of the stable or a musty atmosphere. It is sometimes called
hereditary because a round-chested horse is inclined to Heaves; and if a
round chest is inherited, susceptibility to this disorder is also "inherited."
It is said that change from a high level to a low level will bring on the
disease in some horses.

Treatment This has long been considered a difficult disorder to treat
successfully. Usually the difficulty in treating is due to the
fact that the horse is simply medicated for the Heaves, and nothing is done
to remedy the condition which caused the trouble in the first place, such as
wrong feeding, or bad or dusty air. There is no use to treat symptoms and
absolutely neglect the cause. Remove the cause, then treat with Conkey's
Heave Relief according to plain directions on package. We guarantee
satisfaction. It is a waste of time to treat a horse with heaves unless you
follow the below feeding directions. Conkey's Heave Relief does not
contain any cheap liquid or filler but is all pure drug prescription. The
treatment is scientific, and goes at once to the seat of the trouble, toning
the weakened organs.

In a case of long standing where the horse is run down, use Conkey's
Stock Tonic to build up the general condition. This is tonic, alterative
treatment, which cures indigestion, gets the full value out of feed, increases
the appetite, expels worms, and rids the body of the systemic poisons which
accumulate so rapidly when there is any fault with the breathing.

In feeding a horse with heaves follow these general rules: Feed the
best quality, but in the smallest quantity, so as to give the digestion as little
as possible to do. Always water before feeding, or the undigested food
will be washed out of the stomach. Do not exercise the horse too soon
after feeding. Limit the horse to a small quantity of best hay once a
day; and for other feed give carrots, potatoes, turnips, chopped and mixed
corn or oats. Dark molasses can be used with this to great advantage.

Prevention Heaves usually affects unthrifty, run-dov/n animals; and can
thus be prevented by occasional treatment with Conkey's Stock
Tonic, mixed with the regular feed as directed. Or, we suggest permanent
use of the special veterinary salt described before for general preventive
treatment, using 1 part Conkey's Stock Tonic to 9 parts common barrel salt,
mixing thoroughly and keeping it where the horse can help himself just
as he wants it. There will be no danger from overdosing, but the horse
will doctor himself as he needs it. This will insure general thriving condi-
tion. This formula makes a most efficient stock salt, absolutely effective as
a conditioner and at the low cost of less than 2^ cents a pound. One
pound will usually last a horse about two weeks.

HIDE We say a horse is hidebound when the skin is harsh and "tight"

BOUND and the coat staring. The condition shows poor nutrition. The
horse may be eating well but the food is not properly digested.
Lack of air or of salt sometimes cause this "hide-bound" condition. Con-
key's Stock Tonic in the feed three times a day is the best treatment. As the
appetite improves increase the feed. Groom well and look to general sani-
tary conditions. When the animal shows good normal condition, you can
drop the Stock Tonic treatment in the feed, but we advise regular use of the
veterinary salt mixture already alluded to, as follows: 90 Ibs. common barrel
salt, 10 Ibs. Conkey's Stock Tonic, mixed thoroughly and kept in a dry place,
where the horse can help himself as needed. There is no danger of the
horse overdosing when allowed to get at this just when he wants it. This
stock salt is effective as a general preventive. It is very cheap, costing
when thus home mixed, less than 2^2 cents a pound, 1 pound being sufficient
for each animal for two weeks.

100 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

INDIGESTION Sometimes the trouble is with the teeth, which do not
perform the first process in digestion. It may be the

horse is a "bolter" and swallows his feed without proper chewing. Worms
are another common cause of symptoms of indigestion. The food may be
digested perfectly" but the worms absorb most of it and the horse gets
little benefit. The symptoms vary and according to the symptoms we call
the disease anaemia (poor blood), colic, diarrhea, dysentery, gastritis, heaves,
hide-bound, thin flesh, etc.

Treatment calls first for a purgative, mild or brisk, as the case may
require; then tonic, alterative treatment with Conkey's Stock
Tonic mixed with the regular feed as directed. Treat any condition showing
rough, dry, unthrifty coat, dejected appearance, grain passed whole, etc.,
with Conkey's Stock Tonic. As preventative treatment give all animals a
course of Stock Tonic occasionally; or use continually the special mixture
already suggested as follows: 90 Ibs. common barrel salt, 10 Ibs. Conkey's
Stock Tonic, mix thoroughly and place in a dry place, where each animal
can help itself. There will then be no danger of any animal taking an
overdose; but each will help itself as needed. This is a prime conditioner
and one convenient to use, as each animal doctors itself. It can be cheaply
mixed at home according to above directions. We guarantee full satisfac-
tion with this formula. Try it and compare results with any commercial
salt now sold for five to ten times the price. This treatment will cost
only a cent a week for each head of live-stock, as a pound of the conditioner
will easily last a horse or cow two weeks.

INFLAMMATION Inflammation of any sort is best treated with Conkey's
Pain Lotion, applied liberally as directed. This

remedy can be used externally, as a dressing or simply rubbed in, or can
be sprayed into the mouth, or injected into a deep cut or wound. It is
absolutely safe to use.

INFLUENZA — PINK Diseases of this nature seem to depend on at-
EYE — DISTEMPER mospheric influences and may come from any

OR STRANGLES sudden check to the

function of the skin or

kidneys, as from chill, etc. Spring and fall
changes in the weather usually bring these
troubles; and one animal may infect another.
Young animals seem most liable to suffer. One
attack is said to make the subject immune; that
is many claim if an animal has had the disease
once, he will not get it again. It is at least true
that the animal once attacked is unlikely to have Strangles

it again.

Symptoms Temperature is high and there is a hard, painful swelling under
the jaws, between the branches of the jaw-bone. The breathing
is much obstructed. This swelling is really an abscess; and as it softens,
pus will break out, or it may require lancing.

Treatment Keep the animal well bedded with clean, dry straw; and keep
the box-stall comfortably warm, free from drafts, but with
plenty of ventilation. The quarters should be kept in a sanitary condition
by the use of a liberal supply of Nox-i-cide solution (one-half pint Conkey's
Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant to each gallon of water) to prevent con-
tagion. Do not "quick purge," but feed soft laxative foods such as gruels,
mashes, steamed oats, grass, roots, especially boiled carrots; also cold

DISEASES OF HORSES ^_ 101

milk and linseed tea. Molasses in the mash will be helpful. The animal
will have little appetite, and should be tempted. Give plenty of cool water
for drinking, to which add night and morning one-fourth ounce of potassium
chlorate. Three times a day give one-half dram quinine sulphate and one
tablet Conkey's Distemper Remedy, thrown back in the throat or crushed in
a little water and put on the back of the tongue with a long-handled spoon.

Good nursing is as important as good medical treatment, and especially
is this true with distemper or strangles. The foregoing directions should
be followed with care and regularity. In special cases, where there is much
prostration, give Conkey's Horse Tonic as directed on package, and if the
horse does not eat naturally, give him stimulants combining nutrients, every
two hours; for instance, six ounces of brandy stirred up with eggs and
milk. Fumigate the stable with Nox-i-cide solution and give the patient in-
halations, using the nose bag or a bucket of steaming hot water with a
teaspoonful of Conkey's Pain Lotion to a quart of hot water.

ITCH Proper use of Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant in the
cleaning water will prevent itch, whether due to mange mites,
follicular mange, (due to a vegetable parasite) lice, nervous eczema, or
other causes. Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant allays irritation, soothes,
heals and is thoroughly antiseptic. In treating itch of any sort, it is always
wise to treat the general condition as well as to treat locally. Build up the
body functions, clean the blood, tone and invigorate the animal. You can
do this with Conkey's Stock Tonic, used as directed. Never neglect a case
of itch; for it will invariably bring a horse down to poor, unthriving condi-
tion. Where the itching is intense and immediate relief is necessary, apply
Conkey's Pain Lotion.

LAMENESS Many and various kinds of lameness afflict the horse, due
to faulty conformation or to accidents or neglect. Some-
times the seat of the trouble is hard to locate and we call the case "mysteri-
ous lameness." The veterinarian must find the cause, or the treatment is
guess work. A great many cases of lameness are due to poor blacksmithing
— it always pays to patronize a good horse-shoer. Lameness is most serious
in the hind feet. Lameness behind can be told by a dropping of the head
when the lame leg comes to the ground, whereas in the case of a forefoot,
the horse lifts the head. Clean regularly to keep the foot sanitary, exercise
regularly to keep the hoof level, and so prevent strains from altered axis;
examine the feet regularly to insure against foreign substance, and to detect
and treat bruises, nail-pricks, corns, etc., dress the hoofs regularly with
Conkey's Hoof Remedy to preserve the natural elasticity of the hoofs and
keep them from drying out when the horse is not exercised. All of these
are necessary to insure the owner of a horse against sudden disability
of his animal from serious lameness.

Treatment Where the lameness is due to soreness or strain, rub freely
and often with Conkey's Pain Lotion, or apply as a dressing.
If trouble is deeper, affecting the bone or producing a "bunch"
or gathering of abnormal secretions, or if a counter irritant is needed, use
Conkey's Absorbent. Conkey's Absorbent will even relieve Navicular dis-
ease, for which most veterinarians resort to nerve cutting. Note the differ-
ence in the treatment, Pain Lotion is to be rubbed on freely and often, if
necessary bandaging the part with a liberal dressing. But Conkey's Absorb-
ent is stronger treatment; in fact it takes the place of the usual violent
blistering. Do not rub the Absorbent in, as it acts by absorbing without
blistering or leaving a scar. Where you wish to treat by actual blister, use

102 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

Conkey's Blister, according to directions. Actual blistering is not by any
means as necessary as is commonly supposed. Try the non-blister way and
keep your horse from scar or blemish.

LAMPAS This is an inflammation and swelling of the fleshy bars of the
roof of the mouth, back of the upper incisors. It is sometimes
spelled "Lampers" and was so named on account of the old-style of burning
with a "lamp" or hot iron. It is a natural condition in colts when the
permanent teeth are coming in, and usually requires little or no attention.
In fact it may be classed as one of the "imaginary diseases" along with
wolf teeth and wolf-in-the-tail. The condition will soon change of itself,
but the animal can be made more comfortable by the following:

Treatment Put the animal on scalded oats, boiled roots, mashes, etc., for
a few days, using Conkey's Stock Tonic with the feed to tone
up the general condition and keep the system open. This soft feed will
be easy on the swollen gums. A common and very good treatment is to
apply to the gums, three times a day, alum solution, using one ounce of alum
to one quart of water. We advise making a few incisions about half an inch
back of the teeth, and applying liberally Conkey's Pain Lotion, which is
antiphlogistic, and quickly relieves the inflamed condition. On no account
allow anyone to burn your horse's mouth for Lampas.

LEUCHORREA This is a whitish discharge due to inflammation of the
mucous membrane lining the genital organs of the
mare.

Treatment is simple, but must be persistent. Give an injection, or douche,
once or twice a day, using one dram of permanganate of pot-
ash dissolved in one quart of water. Use water that has been freshly boiled,
and cooled, each time you make this solution. Mix according to directions.
Another treatment, more expensive but especially effective, is Conkey's
Horse Tonic to be given as a drench or in the feed. Conkey's Horse Tonic
is a pure root compound, especially fitted for disorders of the generative
system, the nervous system, or any out-of-health condition of brood mares.

LICE These are commonly found on the forelegs, especially on hairy-
legged horses, but they may come on any part of the body. Poul-
try lice are very liable to attack horses if given the opportunity.

Treatment Rub the horse briskly with a brush dipped in Nox-i-cide Dip
and Disinfectant solution, (see directions). Rub the horse dry,
then blanket if the season requires it so that the animal will not catch cold.
Conkey's Lice Powder, commonly used for poultry, can be used on horses
also, rubbed or sifted into the coat, or blown from a lice-powder bellows.

LYMPHANGITIS-WEED This is a swelling, or "stocking up" of one

or both hind legs, very seldom a foreleg. It

starts up suddenly, beginning in the glands under the thigh or forearm,
and spreading down the leg, sometimes extending even below the knee or
hock. There is local heat, great pain and lameness so that the animal
often stands on three legs. It is said that horses of sluggish or Lymphatic
temperament are most liable to the disease, thus it is common with draft
horses, especially after some sudden change in work or habits; it is often
called Monday Morning Disease, because attacks are common after the
rest day Sunday. It used to be thought due to over-feeding, but modern

DISEASES OF HORSES 103

veterinary medicine treats it rather as a local affection. If neglected the
lymphatic glands up in the groin may develop suppuration, and the horse
then dies of blood poison. A number of attacks leave the leg permanently
swollen, and the condition is then called Chronic Weed.

Treatment Rest the animal and apply hot fomentations to the leg, using
water hot as the hand can bear, then rub in freely Conkey's
Pain Lotion and bandage with a woolen cloth. Do this every few hours;
or if you keep up the hot fomentation one hour at a time, then bandage
with Conkey's Pain Lotion, treatment three times a day will be sufficient.
Meanwhile give the horse a mild physic and put on regular sick diet,
(mashes, green fodder, etc.) and avoid giving any grain. Mix with the
feed Conkey's Stock Tonic according to directions. With this treatment
it will be unnecessary to bleed the animal, which is often extremely risky
business. For a chronic, obstinate case of stocking we advise a flannel
bandage (cut bias) put on over oakum padding every night, with night and
morning treatment, bathing the leg in hot and cold water, alternating.
Then massage with Conkey's Pain Lotion. A little walking exercise will
benefit.

MALLENDERS This is a scaly condition of the skin known as

AND SALLENDERS Mallenders when the back of the knee is affected,
and Sallenders when the skin on the hocks is
affected.

Treatment is both local and internal as follows: Apply Conkey's Nox-i-
cide Dip and Disinfectant solution, two teaspoonfuls in a pint
of warm water; or smear the part with Conkey's Healing Powder 1 part to
3 parts lard, made up into an ointment. Then put the horse on laxative feed
and avoid overfeeding. Mix Conkey's Stock Tonic with the feed to keep the
system open or use the regular home-made stock salt mixture made up
from 9 parts common salt and 1 part Conkey's Stock Tonic. This medi-
cated salt can be safely left in a dry place where the horse can help himself
just as he needs it. He will then not overdose.

MAMMITIS This is inflammation of the udder. Treat by hot water
applications twice a day and rubbing with Conkey's Pain
Lotion. Strip away the milk often. Sometimes it is necessary to irrigate
the udder with a 1 per cent boric solution, used luke warm. To reduce fever,
give Conkey's Laxative Tonic; or give daily ^ oz. saltpeter to aid in
reducing fever.

MANGE The horse is constantly rubbing and scratching, so that the skin
becomes inflamed and sore in patches and the hair falls out.
This trouble is due to the mange mite.

Treatment Separate the affected animal or animals and thoroughly clean
up and disinfect the quarters with Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip
and Disinfectant according to directions. Thoroughly clean all halters, head-
pieces, blankets, etc., and burn any straw or bedding that may carry the
infection. Treat the mangy horse with a thorough rubbing with Conkey's
Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, 2 tablespoonfuls to 1 quart of water.
Repeat every three days until the trouble is entirely cured. Compare also
treatment under Eczema, Itch, etc.

104 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

MARES DYING Preventive treatment: Keep the breeding mare at

AT TIME OF steady light work right up to the time of foaling, but

FOALING under no circumstances overwork her or abuse her with

harsh treatment of any sort. Do not feed too much

coarse bulky feed but give her the best hay, and a nice grain and bran ration,
throughout the whole period of gestation. Keep the system open by
occasional tonic treatment with Conkey's Stock Tonic mixed with the regu-
lar feed, or use the veterinary salt already urged, made up of 9 parts com-
mon barrel salt and 1 part Conkey's Stock Tonic, mixed thoroughly and
left where she can help herself anytime. Examine all hay carefully and
feed none that is moldy or musty. Occasional doses of Conkey's Horse
Tonic in the later months will be very beneficial, and this same Horse Tonic
is excellent for bringing the mare back to normal condition after foaling.

Losing mares and colts is expensive business. Usually it is entirely
preventable by proper management, and the few suggestions given above
cover the main points to be considered.

MENINGITIS This is sometimes confused with Azoturia or stiffness

(SPINAL) in the muscles or legs, muscular spasm, etc., with loss

of sensation. Often there is paralysis in whole or part,

affecting the throat. If the horse is not able to swallow, treatment is hope-
less. Treatment in general is cold applications to the spine in the lumbar
region, or in severe cases a counter irritant, such as mustard plaster or
strong blister. For this we advise Conkey's Blister, rubbed over the spine
lightly as directed on packages. The paralyzed muscles will need a stimu-
lating liniment, such as Conkey's Warming Liniment, which every stock-
owner should keep on hand.

If there is much paralysis it will be necessary to get the horse off
its feet into a sling, and the bowels and bladder will have to be emptied
regularly by enema and catheter, but at this serious stage the case would
undoubtedly be in the hands of a veterinarian. When the acute symptoms
lessen give the horse a tonic stimulant such as Conkey's Horse Tonic,
which can be mixed with water as a drench, or given with a syringe.

MILK FLOW — Dry off the mare by cutting off all corn, all graz-

HOW TO STOP IT ing, limiting the amount of drinking water, and
keeping her on hay only. Each day strip away
part of the milk and rub the bag with camphorated oil.

MOON Discussed under Blindness, which read. Note that Moon

BLINDNESS Blindness (Periodic Opthalmia) can be prevented in its
early stages but in later stages is incurable.

MOUTH SORES Examine the mouth frequently to see if any teeth
need attention, also to see if the bit is comfortable.

If any sore patches are found treat these with Conkey's Healing Powder,
lightly dusted on, or use Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant solution,,
*/2 teaspoonful to a cup of water and wash out the mouth with a soft cloth..
In this strength the solution is excellent antiseptic treatment and if a little:
of it should be swallowed will prove beneficial rather than otherwise.

NASAL The symptom is a mucous discharge from the nostril. Compare

GLEET under Colds, Catarrh, Distemper, etc. If the discharge is from

one nostril only, look carefully for a diseased upper molar, as.

this may be the cause of the trouble. Note symptoms of Glanders and

DISEASES OF HORSES 105

be sure the case is only Nasal Gleet and not a case of Glanders. General
directions for Nasal Gleet are as follows.

Treatment Spray the nostrils with Conkey's Pain Lotion, using an
atomizer, or apply with a small sponge or cotton ball stuffed
up the nostril. Rub the Pain Lotion all over the outside, clear up to the
eyes. Give the horse Conkey's Stock Tonic in the feed, which will act as
a tonic and conditioner. Grooming and other extra care at this time will
pay, helping the animal to get quickly back to good normal condition.

NAVEL AND This disease is due to infection of the navel at birth,

JOINT DISEASE or before the part is thoroughly healed. It is abso-
lutely preventable by proper precautions at the time

of the mare's foaling. The symptoms are soreness and inflammation at the
navel, swelling of the joints, and lameness. Often the symptoms are mis-
taken for those of accident, the owner supposing the colt has been kicked
by the mare and thus injured.

Treatment is preventive. Provide a thoroughly clean place for the mare
for foaling, having it thoroughly disinfected with Conkey's
Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant. If possible to whitewash the quarters
this is advised. Have a solution of Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, two
teaspoonfuls in a pint of water, ready to use with plenty of small pieces
of clean cheesecloth or muslin, soaked in the same strength solution. When
one of these is used for sponging off it should be thrown away in a pile
to be burned later, and not saved for a second using.

At birth of the foal, immediately wet the stump of the cord with a
solution of Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, 4 teaspoonfuls to a
pint of water. Repeat this application two or three times a day, dusting
with Conkey's Healing Powder until the cord is shriveled up and the place is
entirely healed. A standing attitude makes foaling easier for the mare,
and in this position the cord is broken naturally and there is less liability of
hemorrhage. However, if the mare is lying down and does not rise up after
foaling and thus break the cord, it will have to be cut: first tie the cord 2
inches from the body with a piece of tape soaked in the Nox-i-cide solution,
and then cut it a few inches from this ligature, say about four inches from
the body. Treat the stump as described above and keep up treatment several
times a day until the stump dries and shrivels off.

This solution, or one similar to it, should be used on the raw navel
of every animal born under domesticated conditions. This one simple pre-
caution will save thousands and thousands of valuable colts, calves, etc.,
every year. This is not too much trouble to insure the young animal from
navel infection. A live colt or calf is better than a dead one, and there is
a strong chance of the owner having a dead one on his hands before long
when such simple, safe precautionary measures as the above are neglected.

Before the colt sucks, sponge off the udder of the mare and her hinder
parts with Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant solution, 2 tea-
spoonfuls in a pint of water. Twice a day for ten days wash the udder with
this solution and your colt will probably come through without the common
troubles with scours, etc.

Even mares foaling on clean grass should have attention as suggested
above, and in every case the navel should be treated and the mare's udder
and quarters should be washed with the antiseptic solution of Nox-i-cide.

PIN WORMS Inject into the rectum three nights a week y* gallon of

Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant solution, using

one-half gallon warm water and 2 teaspoonfuls Nox-i-cide Dip and Disin-

106 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

fectant. Use an ordinary hose and funnel. This will get rid of the worms
in the rectum, but as the horse will probably have other stomach and intes-
tinal parasites, treat with Conkey's Worm Remedy.

PINK EYE Compare treatment under Influenza, Pinkeye, Distemper or
Strangles.

PNEUMONIA OR Neglected colds easily run into pneumonia. There

LUNG FEVER is high fever, difficult breathing, short, painful cough,

and the eyes are highly injected (the blood-vessels

standing out prominently on the eye-ball, and changing from red to a purple-
gray color). The animal stands in a listless manner, with countenance dis-
tressed. When the ear is placed to the chest a dry-rubbing sound is heard.

Treatment Put the sick horse in comfortable quarters, if possible a box
stall. Have plenty of fresh air but no draft, and blanket if
the weather is at all cold. There will be little appetite, but put the animal
on such sick diet as mashes, cooked roots, moistened hay, etc., mixing Con-
key's Stock Tonic with the feed as directed. The animal's strength must
be kept up and the Stock Tonic will increase the appetite, in addition to
having tonic effect. It will also insure digestion of the food taken, and
will keep the system open. If the animal will not eat, give eggs and milk to
tempt the appetite. Rub the throat and chest with Conkey's Pain Lotion.
Rub the legs until they are warm, using Conkey's Warming Liniment,
rubbing in a little dry mustard to produce warmth, then bandage over
with woolen bandages. These will need to be taken off once or twice a
day and the legs hand-rubbed before replacing them. Do not rub the
chest with powerful blisters, but if hot applications are needed you can
use mustard paste, putting it on the chest and also around back of the
shoulder blades and down to the middle of the body, below the chest.
Go lightly over the thin skin back of the elbow. Wash this paste off in half
an hour. Keep the horse blanketed. Inhalation treatment with a pail of
steaming water, or a nose bag, will be useful. You can use Conkey's Pain
Lotion, Conkey's Pi-no or Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant for
steaming the nostrils, all of which are powerful disinfectants and germicides.
Directions for use of each on the package.

POLL EVIL This is a painful swelling on top of the head, i. e., the poll,
which may come from a blow or bruise from low doorways,
or from beams which the horse strikes when tossing its head, or from
pressure of tight over-drawn checks. Poll evil is in reality an abscess on
the top of the head, and is liable to be serious because of its location at a
high point, since the abscess will tend to deepen and burrow, and also
because of the important bloodvessels at that part which may be injured
in ordinary treatment.

Treatment Poll Evil is easy to cure if treated when it first appears, about
all that is necessary being to give hot or cold applications to
prevent the formation of pus, using a solution of Nox-i-cide Dip and Disin-
fectant (1 tablespoonful to 1 quart of hot or cold water). The horse should
be watched as to diet, and limited to laxative, non-heating feeds.

However, most cases are not treated until the swelling has spread and
pus is formed and commencing to burrow. The longer neglected, the
deeper the abscess works, getting down beneath the muscles, in time affect-
ing the bones. To treat, get Conkey's Poll Evil Remedy. Make two open-
ings in the swelling, one at the bottom to drain out the pus, the other at

DISEASES OF HORSES 107

the top for medication. These must both be kept open, and not allowed
to scab over; and the abscess must be kept moist, so that it will heal slowly,
from the bottom out. The abscess will have to be probed to the bottom and
all loose tissue cleaned out, working gently, as directed on the package of
Conkey's Poll Evil Remedy. Follow directions for washing out the abscess
with the antiseptic solution, then dress with the Poll Evil Remedy, repeating
the operation each day, alternating with the special preparations included
in the package as directed. This treatment heals perfectly and without the
cruel blistering and cutting so often thought necessary. With Conkey's
Poll Evil Treatment ^ there is so little pain that the horse in most cases
will stand quietly eating its grain, apples or similar tempting food, without
interfering in any way with the operation. With a very nervous animal it
may be necessary to use the lip twitch, however.

PROUD FLESH Apply Conkey's Healing Powder three times a day.

QUARTER Quarter Crack is a narrow fissure in the horn of the hoof,
CRACK usually on the inside quarter of a fore foot. It is the same

as a sand-crack, and differs from a toe-crack simply in being
located in the quarter. It is caused by drying of the hoof, and alternate
changes from wet to dry conditions. Hard, dry floors will cause it if
proper attention is not given to .dressing the hoof regularly with a good
dressing (Conkey's Hoof Remedy). The fissure usually commences at the
coronary band and grows deeper and longer if neglected.

Treatment Wash the hoof clean and examine it carefully for pebbles, nail,
etc. Apply Conkey's Hoof Remedy with a brush, well up
around the coronary band and over the heel. Treat every second day.
Conkey's Absorbent applied to the coronary band, rubbed lightly to act
as a blister, will stimulate the growth of healthy horn, but the Hoof Remedy
should be applied over all the hoof, every second day, as suggested. If the
fissure has been neglected so that the quarter is badly cracked, clamp the
edges of the crack together, first cleaning out the crack (Nox-i-cide solution
will disinfect and clean it thoroughly); then paint the edge with Conkey's
Hoof Remedy. These clamps will keep the edges of the crack fixed and
immovable and the healthy growth of new horn excited by the Hoof Remedy
and Absorbent treatment will fill in the crack completely.

QUIDDING Have a dentist examine the horse's mouth for a diseased,
split or sharp molar tooth and treat if necessary. While
the mouth is sore, put the horse on soft feed and give Conkey's Stock Tonic
to guard against indigestion from poor chewing.

QUITTOR This is a swelling around the coronary band, with intense heat
and pain, and pus formation. It is really an abscess of the
foot (see Abs'ceTss1), due to some outside injury, such as a bruise, sharp nail
prick, gravel in-2ftE$ foot or neglected corn.

Treatment jJPqultf^e with linseed to bring the swelling to a head if the
" ..atxljce.ss has not opened. Drain out the pus, remove dead tissue
and clean, ^dut^t^gropening with Nox-i-cide solution, 2 teaspoonfuls Conkey's
Nox-i-cio^ ^pip ;arvl . Disinfectant in a pint of soft water. Plug with oakum
saturatedyp fte.vjS^mb'. strength solution; .or you can use Conkey's Pain
Lotion. ^ Th,e,imrj!Qr|ar4t"lliing is to drain out all the pus and keep the cavity
antiseptically dressed. Be sure not to injure the coronary band when drain-
ing and removing dead tissue as it supplies the horny growth.

108

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

RHEUMATISM Caused by exposure to cold and damp, or by certain

poisons in the system. The symptoms are stiffness and

painful movement, with lameness shifting from one joint or leg to another.

The joints are tender and swollen and the muscle affected is hard and tense.

Treatment Rub freely with Conkey's Pain Lotion and rest the part
thoroughly, if necessary putting the horse in a sling. Give a
physic to carry off any systemic poison. Put the horse on soft food, with
green food once a day, and bran mash at least twice a week. Mix with
the food Conkey's Stock Tonic in amount directed on packages. For medi-
cine give three times a day y2 ounce sodium salicylate in solution. Keep
up a thorough rubbing with Conkey's Pain Lotion and apply hot flannel
bandages between treatment. If in the region of the loins a good way to
apply the necessary heat is by covering the part with a thick pad of flannel
or a blanket, and ironing with a fairly hot iron, or use hot salt bags.

RINGBONE This is a bony ring
or enlargement on the
coronet, a deposit from the pastern
bone due to inflammation at the ar-
ticular surface. If the deposit is from
the upper surface of the pastern bone,
namely the pastern joint, it is called
high ringbone; if from the lower ar-
ticular surface (affecting the coffin
joint) it is called low ringbone. Ring-
bone usually comes from faulty con-
formation or from wrong shoeing
which throws the whole action out,
making the horse liable to injury from
hard work or fast driving. In early
stages frequent rubbing with Conkey's
Pain Lotion will take out all lame-
ness. If well advanced use Conkey's
Absorbent, which absorbs the deposit without the pain of a blister and
leaves no unsightly sore to be healed up later. A bad case will require com-
plete rest during treatment. Full directions for use of Conkey's Absorbent
for treating Ringbone come with the package.

Ringbone

Bones of the foot
(After Chauveau)

RINGWORM This is an itching skin disease due to parasite (trycho-
phyto tonsurans) which causes the hair to fall out in
ring after ring, leaving circular patches of bare skin, of a scurfy, stubbly
appearance and constantly enlarging.

Treatment Wash the part thoroughly, then apply Conkey's Nox-i-cide
Dip and Disinfectant as directed on packages.

ROARING — This is a noisy difficulty of breathing after exertion

THICK WIND — and is due to paralysis of the muscles of one side of the
WHISTLING larynx, or to a thickening of the larynx membrane.

It is considered incurable but symptoms may be less-
ened by the operation called tracheotomy. Consult a good veterinarian.
Frequently it results from neglected Distemper, for which see treatment

DISEASES OF HORSES 109

with Conkey's Fever Remedy (under Influenza, Pinkeye, Distemper or
Strangles).

Treatment is not successful except in early stages, when we advise
for Roaring Conkey's Horse Tonic once a day, and for external treatment
applications of Conkey's Absorbent, painted over the throat
from ear to ear, repeated according to directions until four applications
have been made. Do not feed any clover hay or any musty, badly cured
fodder.

SCALDS Burns or scalds from hot water are usually inexcusable and
due to cruel carelessness in giving hot water applications. Treat
with Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant solution, 1 teaspoonful to
1 pint of warm water, to draw out the smart and sting, then apply immedi-
ately Conkey's Pain Lotion. Dust the part thickly with flour or starch and
cover with cotton wool.

SCRATCHES This is a diseased, inflamed condition of the skin of the
fetlock. It is similar to Cracked Heel, and if neglected
will run into Grease Heel for which see special treatments. It may be due
to blood condition, and is very common in spring, but often follows neglect
to clean off mud and dirt, after the horse has been working in sloppy
weather.

Treatment For the general condition put the horse on Stock Tonic
mixed with the feed as directed. For external treatment, clean
the part carefully with a brush. If necessary to use water for cleansing,
put a few drops of Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant in a cup of
warm water, and after sponging, dry the skin carefully. Then proceed as
follows: Poultice with Conkey's Hoof Remedy mixed with bran and con-
tinue poulticing several days if necessary to reduce the heat and inflamma-
tion. Then clean the part with Nox-i-cide solution (1 teaspoonful Conkey's
Npx-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant to a pint of warm water), dry thoroughly
with a soft cloth then dust on Conkey's Healing Powder. This will heal
quickly. Meanwhile keep up the Stock Tonic Treatment for one month,
to put the horse in good healthy condition.

SEEDY This is a condition of the hoof in which there is a powder-filled
TOE cavity between the two layers of horn of the hoof, sometimes

extending from the sole to the coronet. The trouble is due to
a horn parasite and responds to the following:

Treatment Cut away enough horn to expose the cavity, then fill with
Conkey's Hoof Remedy. Use the Hoof Remedy for regular
dressing of the hoofs and this condition will be prevented entirely.

SHEATH Washing the sheath every 2 or 3 weeks with Conkey's Nox-i-
cide Dip and Disinfectant solution, 1 teaspoonful to 1 pint of
warm water, will correct any tendency to diseased condition and entirely
prevent what is known as foul sheath. Do not use harsh soap in the water.
Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant will clean the part perfectly and quickly
and beside will act as an antiseptic application. Do not use lard, vaseline
or any greasy mixture of any kind, for grease is a culture bed for dangerous
germs. Antiseptic cleansing is the safe and practically the only treatment.

110 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

SHIPPING Horses which have been shipped are very liable to fever.
FEVER Put them on laxative feed and treat with Conkey's Fever

Remedy, following general directions as given under Dis-
temper. Conkey's Stock Tonic with the feed will be very useful just at this
time to put the horse into fine general condition.

SHOULDER

SLIP Apply Conkey's Pain Lotion, rubbing it in freely.

SIDEBONES This is the name for
the hardening of the
cartilages of the foot on each side of
the bone of the foot (the coffinbone)
due to an earthy or bony deposit in
the structure of the cartilage. That is,
it is an ossification of those flexible
cartilage pieces which in the natural
foot allow the soft structures of the
foot to expand when it strikes the
ground (and conversely when the foot
is raised from the ground). This hard-
ening reduces elasticity, causes de-
fective action, and in time lameness.

Treatment Firing is useless for this disease although commonly resorted
to. Soon as any lameness or heat is detected apply Conkey's
Pain Lotion freely, to take out the inflammation. If necessary keep this up
a day or so; then apply Conkey's Absorbent, as directed on packages. If
necessary to send for these Conkey remedies, you can use the time to
advantage by treating with cold water bandages, or simply soaking the
feet in cold water frequently. This will ease the pain, and will also pave
the way for Conkey treatment. The cold water may in fact relieve the
horse so that he will seem "cured," but the symptoms will return as soon
as he is put to work again if the treatment is not given also.

SKIN For any skin affection use Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Dis-

DISEASE infectant mixed with water as directed. Read treatment for
Eczema, Mange, Itch, Ringworm.

SORE Spray with Conkey's Eye Remedy as directed on packages. Read
EYES treatment under Eyes, also under Blindness.

SORE Treat all cases of sore or tender mouth with Conkey's Healing

MOUTH Powder, dusted on lightly with a ball of cotton batting.

SORES Whether simple or serious, treat all sores with some antiseptic
soon as discovered. Keep Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disin-
fectant handy for this purpose. This will prevent serious developments. If
sore is bad, dust with Conkey's Healing Powder which will heal quickly;
if a deep sore, use Conkey's Pain Lotion, which^will keep the tissue soft
and heal from the inside first. If a very deep-seated sore, or a pus cavity,
thoroughly clean first with Nox-i-cide solution as directed; if of the nature
of an abscess, use Conkey's Poll Evil Remedy.

DISEASES OF HORSES

111

SPAVIN Bog Spavin and Blood
Spavin, have already been
treated. We here consider Bone
Spavin, which is a bony deposit in
front and on the side of the hock, due
to inflammation, which tends to unite
and stiffen the movable joint. If ne-
glected, this deposit or growth does re-
unite the parts of the joint and it be-
comes one bone substance. Hence
the great difficulty in treating Bone
Spavin when it has been neglected.
The trouble is due in the first place
to inflammation in the part from some
accident or over-exertion, in animals
with some fault in conformation,
which makes them liable to strain the part and thus bring on inflammation.

Sound hock

Spavined Cured spavin

Symptoms Hard bony swellings on front and inner side of the hock,
lameness when the horse first starts to work, with wearing of
the toe. In hidden or "occult spavin" the bony deposit is on the inner and
lower part of the hock.

Treatment is the same in all cases. Take out the inflammation of the
joint with Conkey's Pain Lotion. Put on a high-heeled shoe
to correct the faulty foot axis, then apply Conkey's Absorbent according
to directions. Do not blister any ordinary case as Conkey's Absorbent will
work in the majority of cases without blistering to the extent of taking the
hair off or leaving a scar. In very old cases it may be necessary to apply
Conkey's Blister which should be well rubbed in.

SPLINT This is a common
affection of horses,
being a small bony deposit
on the cannon bone, usually
of a foreleg, and showing as
a distinct swelling on the
leg, between the knee (or
the hock) and the fetlock.
Horses of certain conforma-
. tion are very liable to Splint,
hence it is sometimes called
an hereditary disease. Often
it comes from overwork
when young. Lack of lime
salts in the feed may cause it.

Symptoms are the nut-like tumors described, usually not painful but
always unsightly and always making the horse liable to sudden
lameness at any time. When the splint is situated halfway between the
knee and the fetlock the horse usually works out of it on being exercised,
but when near the knee-joint, which is more common, or where it inter-
feres with a tendon or joint, the lameness increases with exercise or
"warming up."

Treatment Apply Conkey's Absorbent according to directions.

112 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

SPRAINS Apply Conkey's Pain Lotion, rubbing the part freely. This
treatment should be kept up until all heat disappears. If the
pain does not also disappear, then change at this point to Conkey's Absorb-
ent, which will be effective. Do not apply the Absorbent until you have all
heat from the part. The horse must be allowed perfect rest. Keep the
system open by giving laxative feed, or mix Conkey's Stock Tonic with
the regular feed to insure proper digestion.

STAGGERS Frequently the cause is overfeeding and indigestion. Give
a brisk physic, then correct the trouble by limiting the
ration and mixing Conkey's Stock Tonic with the feed according to direc-
tions.

STOCKING See treatment for Lymphangitis, Weed.

STRANGLES See treatment for Distemper, Pink Eye, Strangles, Influ-
enza.

STRINGHALT A form of Chorea, which see.

STUMBLING Examine the feet to see if the fault is with the shoes, or
if the hoofs need shaping up. Give exercise to keep the
hoofs in even development. Apply Conkey's Hoof Remedy as directed, to
keep the hoofs in healthful, pliable condition.

Stumbling is sometimes due to worms (see page 114). Another com-
mon cause is bad eyesight.

SUNSTROKE In hot weather a horse should be allowed water fre-
quently as wanted; and the head should be protected
when the animal is worked out in the sun. Sunstroke produces a conges-
tion of the brain, and the horse will stop, stagger, then fall to the ground
unconscious. Temperature will run very high.

Treatment Get off the harness quickly and prop the animal in a com-
fortable position in the shade, on his brisket. Apply cold
water to the head, or if possible use a bag of ice; but keep the head cool
and sponge or spray the whole body with cold water. If able to drink
let the horse take a few swallows of cool but not cold water at frequent
intervals. Give a stimulant of 4 ounces of whisky in a little cold water.
As the horse gets better keep up some sort of tonic treatment, preferably
the use of Conkey's Horse Tonic in the dose directed on packages, or use
Conkey's Stock Tonic mixed in the feed as directed.

Prevention A horse in good condition does not easily fall a victim of
sunstroke. Keep the bowels and kidneys acting freely by the
use of Conkey's Stock Tonic in the feed during hot weather, feed lightly and
exercise regularly and you need have no fear of sunstroke.

SWEENY This is a wasting, shrinking, literally a starving of the muscles,
especially shoulder muscles, due to injury to the point of the
shoulder from a tight collar, or from hard pulling, especially when the horse
is not in condition for the strain. There is a distinct depression over the
shoulder blade, sometimes lameness, and stumbling.

Treatment A little exercise is good for the horse but do not work him
for a time. Fill out the wasted muscle by daily hand rubbing
with Conkey's Pain Lotion, rubbed in well, trying all the time to loosen
up the skin. After one week change the treatment to Conkey's Absorbent,
applied according to directions. Then return to the Pain Lotion- If neces-
sary, repeat the Absorbent treatment. This treatment is very successful.

DISEASES OF HORSES 113

TEETH Have the teeth examined once a year at least. If there are
any sharp, uneven molar teeth, they should be smoothed by
filing the outer edge of the upper teeth and the inside of lower teeth. If
a tooth is decayed have it pulled out. The condition of the teeth affects
the whole general health. The teeth must do their part in masticating
properly as the first process in digestion.

THIN FLESH General unthrifty condition calls for Conkey's Stock
Tonic in the regular feed as directed. This insures full
digestion of the ration given, tones the organs to full performance of their
respective functions and increases the contractile power of the walls of the
bloodvessels, thus increasing circulation. After a few weeks omit the Stock
Tonic in the feed but keep before the animal all the time a veterinary salt
made up as follows: 9 parts common barrel salt, 1 part Conkey's Stock
Tonic, mixed thoroughly and kept dry. With this treatment, unless afflicted
with some fatal wasting disease, the horse will flesh up nicely and keep in
fine condition. Feed the horse according to the work he has to do. Read
carefully the section on rations for horses.

THOROUGHPIN ^ This is a common but not serious trouble — it is more
a blemish than an ailment. There is a distension or

puffing of the upper and back part of the hock as a result of some injury
to the hock bone, causing an excess of synovial fluid in the bursal sacs of
the hock. This distension passes clear through the hock, hence the name
Thoroughpin. It is soft and fluctuating, that is when the puff or swelling
is pressed on one side of the hock the liquid contents of the puff are forced
through the hock and bulge out on the opposite side. This trouble is most
likely to affect young horses with upright hocks.

Symptoms There is no inflammation, no lameness, or only rarely, when
the horse has been much overexercised.

Treatment In early stages alternate application of hot and cold water
bandages will reduce the swelling. Ordinary blisters will
reduce it somewhat, but the logical remedy is Conkey's Absorbent. Follow
directions carefully and in bad cases repeat every two or three days.

THROAT Never neglect this symptom for it may run into a dangerous

SORENESS disease, hard and expensive to cure, sometimes incurable.
Best treatment is spraying with Conkey's Pain Lotion, and
also rubbing the throat outside from ear to ear with Warming Liniment.
Spray and steam with Conkey's Pain Lotion or Conkey's Pi-no, used as an
inhalant, as described in Bronchitis. To every gallon of water the horse
will drink add 2 drams potassium chlorate. The usual hygienic rules should
be followed as to food, ventilation and attention to the bowels.

THRUSH IN This is an offensive diseased condition of the cleft of

CLEFTS OF FEET the foot-pad or frog, with foul discharge of pus and

more or less destruction of the horn substance. It is

usually due to bad stable management — in fact, is generally considered a sign
of neglect, as standing in dirty, wet or overheated stables will cause it. It is
unknown in clean stables where Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant is
used as directed, all manure removed, the urine drained away, and the feet
regularly cleaned of foreign substances. The hind feet of mares, and the
fore feet of horses are most commonly affected. We do not mean to assert
that thrush is always due to uncleanliness, but it certainly is in the majority
of cases. Other causes may be working on rough ground, change from dry
to wet conditions, muddy streets, scratches, navicular disease, or contracted
feet.

114

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

Treatment Clean up the stables. Then clean the feet of the horse and
stand the animal in a tub of disinfectant solution, using Con-
key's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, mixed with water according to direc-
tions. Let the feet soak in this for half an hour, then pack with Conkey's
Healing Powder and stuff cotton or tow into the frog. Repeat this dressing
every three days and it will cure the case nicely. Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip
and Disinfectant mixed with bran also makes a good hoof pack and will
cure Thrush, but this treatment should be given daily.

TUMORS These hard swellings or lumps have various causes. Most cases
can be removed with Conkey's Absorbent, applied as directed.
If, however, the tumor remains hard it should be cut out by a veterinary
surgeon. Tumors can be burned out (with caustic or firing iron) but on
the whole this is not so good practice as to have the veterinarian cut them
out.

WARTS These are really little tumors, immediately under or in the
skin, but usually not attached to the underlying structure, hence
they can often be pinched off with the thumb and finger; cut off; or strangu-
lated with a cord tied tight around the base and allowed to stay on until
the wart sloughs off; but in this case it is necessary to apply a little
chloride of antimony every two days until the base is a little lower than
the other skin surface, then treat with zinc ointment every two days, or
better yet, Conkey's Healing Powder. It is claimed by good authorities that
cold pressed castor oil applied daily will drive them away. We have no
scientiijc explanation as to this, but in practice it seems to work very well
for certain kinds of warts, especially if the wart is not large and has a
broad base. Our own treatment is to simply touch the top of the wart with
Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant full strength, three times a day
for a few days, when the warts disappear.

WINDGALLS—
WIND PUFFS

These are puffy
enlargements on
the inside or
outside of the fetlock joint, usually
on a hind leg. A Windgall is real-
ly a dropsical condition of the
bursae, or the tendon of the joint.
The condition does not always
need treatment as there is no
discomfort or interference with
usefulness. Old windgalls some-
times cause stiffness, however. The
best treatment is rest, cold water
bandages for a few days, or free
rubbing with Conkey's Pain Lo-
tion, then application of Conkey's
Absorbent according to directions.

CUTS

2,3-inlSments
from injury

Windgall

and

splint

Cured
splint

-
and sometimes very sen-

ous. Get rid of barbed
wire as rapidly as possible as its use is dangerous. Keep on hand Conkey's
Npx-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, Conkey's Pain Lotion and Conkey's Heal-
ing Powder and use according to the nature of the cut as described under
Wounds. The first necessity is antiseptic treatment to prevent infection.
Often this is all that is necessary, but never neglect any open cut on an

DISEASES OF HORSES

115

Intestinal worms of the horse

animal's body. Use what you have on hand, for delay is dangerous. But
prepare for emergencies by having on hand the above three indispensables
for first aid to the injured.

WORMS The horse is a host for many
parasites of the stomach and in-
testines, which enter the body along with
impure food and water or while grazing on
undrained or marshy pasture. Of these the
Large Round Worms in the small intestine
and the Small Threadworms in the large in-
testine and rectum give most trouble. Be-
sides these there are three species of tape-
worm found in the intestines, sometimes
reaching as much as 20 to 30 feet in length.
Worms are always unprofitable for the live-
stock owner. They often cause very serious
disorders, and in every case are a drain on
the vitality of the animal. It is always ex-
pensive to feed worms.

Symptoms General unthrifty condition;
dysentery; colicky pains; appe-
tite depraved; rubbing the tail or mane;
pouting of the anus, itching rectum and fre-
quent signs of the parasites in the manure
discharge are common symptoms. Lifting
the upper lip is also considered a symptom.
Usually there is a ravenous appetite, a pot-
belly, but the animal fails to thrive in spite
of the best feed and general good care. How can it thrive? The length
of the small intestine is about 60 feet, the large intestine 30 feet more. The
embryos taken in through the mouth develop rapidly, reproduce themselves,
and soon the whole length of the bowel is crowded with blood sucking
parasites. It is absolutely necessary to get rid of the worms.

Treatment If the condition has been neglected to the point of the above
symptoms, it will be necessary to give active vermicide treat-
ment at once, using Conkey's Worm Remedy. Then put the horse on regu-
lar Stock Tonic treatment, using l/2 tablespoonful with the regular feed
twice a day. The horse will pick up rapidly for Stock Tonic increases the
appetite for the ration, insures full digestion of the food taken, tones up the
body organs and acts directly on the blood vessels, thus increasing circu-
lation.

Prevention Here again prevention is easiest and cheapest. Do not let
the worms get a good start, but use a home-made medicated
stock salt all the time and let each animal treat itself. The best stock salt
as well as the cheapest, is easily made from 90 pounds of common barrel
salt and 10 pounds of Conkey's Stock Tonic. Mix this thoroughly and keep
in a dry place where the horse can help himself.

YEAST This is a successful, popular treatment for sterility

TREATMENT leuchorrea and Epizootic Abortion, and while familial
to most stockmen it is included here convenient for
ready reference. Of course, where sterility is due to poor condition, or to
some deformity, the yeast treatment would not benefit. Its success is due

116

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

to the fact that it corrects the unnatural acidity of the secretions, which is
the common cause of failure to breed when the mare is otherwise healthy.

Mix to a paste with a little warm water one cake of compressed yeast
and allow to stand in a moderately warm room for twelve hours; then add
a pint of warm water and allow to stand as before; then strain through
cheesecloth. The mixture will now be ready for use and should be injected
in the vagina by means of a syringe or hose and funnel after flushing out
the passage with warm water. Use when mare is seen to be in heat and
have her bred when period of heat is about over. Try the same treatment
for barren cows and sows.

20

Diagram showing Points of the Horse and location of common injuries and diseases.

A— Thoroughpin B— Curb C— Bog and Blood Spavin D— Bone Spavin E— Splint
F— Windgall G-Capped Elbow H— Poll Evil

1. Muzzle

2. Crest

3. Withers

4. Loin

5. Hip

6. Croup

7. Thigh

8. Quarter

9. Gaskin or lower thigh

10. Hock

11. Stifle

12. Flank

13. Tendons

14. Fetlock

15. Pastern

16. Heel

17. Cannon

18. Knee

19. Fore arm

20. Shoulder

21. Throat latch

DAIRY HERD

117

CATTLE
I. The Dairy Herd

TTTHEN you come to the dairy you come to the highest principle of

l/l/ livestock farming.

V Y In the dairy, most of all, you realize that raising livestock is a
"manufacturing business," with dairy animals for machinery, improved, and
unimproved, and feed for the raw material. Good sense, on the dairy farm
as in the factory, is:

1. Securing the best raw material the cheapest way,

2. Selecting, caring for, mending, improving machinery,

3. Stopping unnecessary waste,

4. Getting the best market for products.

RAW MATERIAL This whole subject is too big for subhead discus-
sion. We will make many general statements in

relation with other topics, but the details have been taken up carefully under
the section Feed and Feeding.

THE COW

"MACHINERY"

How is your dairy equipped with dairy machinery?
We don't mean have you a Babcock tester or a cream
separator, or one of the new-fangled milking machines

that make a cow think she's being renovated with a vacuum cleaner. Get
down first of all to the cow. Is she improved or unimproved to begin with?
if improved, is she a good specimen of her kind or breed, or do you keep
her because of her high sounding lable? Or is she just a common ungraded
scrub junk, full of loose bolts and screws, slow to work, wasteful of raw
material, poor and uncertain as to final product? Or, if good to begin with,
do you keep her "oiled" up in slick running order, considering the wear and
tear on high grade machines when run with a high pressure motor for
heavy factory output.

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

STOP THAT Stop that waste. Dairying is a business — not guesswork.
WASTE All profit in dairying is based on knowledge of the indi-

vidual cow.

As a business proposition the rule in dairying is to find out and get
rid of the unprofitable cow.

"GONE AND Iowa has — just that! Iowa, the second largest dairy state
DONE IT" (New York is first) has just found out by actual tests that
her farmers have been patiently milking 500,000 unprofitable
cows. This means that in labor alone there has been a useless expense of a
year and a quarter's time for something like 10,000 men. Iowa's gone an
done it sure! But it's pretty much the same over all this country. We just
happen to pick up these figures from Iowa.

ALL WRONG It proves we were all wrong in what we said above; fact
is, in most cases dairying is guesswork — not business.
Might just as well make it pay. Pay or not, the dairy man can take
his choice.

CHOOSING To begin with, there are two items (shall we say just
YOUR COWS one item?)— a good individual from a good dairy breed.
Breed isn't enough, for cows are in this respect like
humans — it's the individual that counts.

Great strides in the betterment of the various breeds have been made
by breeders and stock farmers of this country, starting with types already
originated in other countries; chiefly in England, Scotland, Holland, and
Switzerland, as shown by the names of present well known breeds. These
they have developed or occasionally changed to meet special purposes.
At first development was mainly with a view to beef, but with the passing
of the old cattle king days and the coming of expensive feeding methods,
we are bound to give more and more attention to the dairy types. It is
proved that a pound of dry feed produces on the average a pound of milk;
but it takes fully ten times that amount to produce a pound of beef; (and
it is interesting to note that beef requires a third more in ration than a
corresponding gain in mutton, and twice as much as a pound of pork). With
our modern need for concentrating the industry, and for more economical
feeding methods, we have a corresponding increase of attention to dairy
cattle as representing the profitable industry.

THE SHOW RING From the best known breeds select your kind, suit-

TEST ing your own taste and suiting also conditions of

pasturage, roughage, etc., with which you have to

deal. A good milk cow sells for as much as a good horse used to; and a
good horse sells for as much as two of the kind did a few years ago.
Prepare to pay for what you get. It is easy to find six cows that will
yield as much as twelve average, untested cows would. Judge the . cow
you buy as would a judge in the show ring. Look for (1) dairy tempera-
ment, (2) feeding capacity, (3) constitution, (4) milk organs, (-5) quality,
(6) pelvic region.

THE DAIRY In general appearance dairy cattle are noticeably different
TYPE from beef stock .

Instead of the blocky, rectangular outline, straight back

and belly lines, look for the well marked "wedge-shape," with less thickness
of body, narrower thighs and back, full and heavy behind, with ample udder.
In judging for dairy conformation the udder counts 25 points. Fleshiness is

DAIRY HERD

119

distinctly objectionable in the true dairy type. Narrow in the fore quarters
but wide in the hind part, it is easy to understand how the dairy cow can
produce as much as she does; with her great development in the lung and
digestive regions, which account for the biggest part of the "wedge," we
have a capital machine for turning grass into gold, i. e., good milk and
butter.

Explanation— 1, muzzle; 2, forehead;
3, neck; 4, withers; 5, back; 6, loins;
7, hip; 8, pelvic arch; 9, rump; 10,
pinbone; 11, shoulder; 12, chest; 13,
heart girth; 14, side; 15, belly; 16,
flank; 17, milk well; 18, milk vein;
19, fore udder; 20, udder; 21, teats;
22, hind udder; 23, thigh.

A MILK Long years of careful selection and breeding are back of this
MACHINE milk machine. Every effort has been made to improve the
breeds along the lines of early maturity, length of .milking
period, amount and quality of milk, and to discourage a tendency to flesh.
Thus from the natural animal, with a milking period extending only over
the pasturage season, we have created one with an almost continual flow —
6 or 7 quarts a day for 300 days being a good present average. This means
about 4,000 Ibs. milk yield annually, and many herds average 5,000 Ibs.
annually. Individual records are often very much higher; and it is common
for a good dairy cow to give ten times her own weight in milk each year.
Even a fairly good dairy cow today makes a butter yield equal to that of
three average cows a few years ago.

IMPROVED At present only a small portion of actual dairy cows

DAIRY BREEDS in the United States are pure breeds, being simple

crosses of inferior stock with pure. There is plenty of

room for improvement ahead. The case of Iowa, above alluded to, is not
remarkable in the least, for dairy farmers all over the country are barely
waking up to the advantages of purer stock and selected individual workers
of the given breed. More and more we are realizing the need for the indi-
vidual test; for it is possible to find a lazy, inefficient, and yet handsome,
specimen of any breed. In no other business is the saying truer "that hand-
some is that handsome does'." A good dairy cow today should give at least
5,000 Ibs. of milk yearly; or on a butter basis, 1/4 Ib. per day. So when you
set out to buy a cow, get one with patent insides and all the "wedge-shape"
latest improvements.

Suit yourself as to breed, of course narrowing your choice down to
those breeds that suit your purpose best. For butter fat select the Jersey,
or the Guernsey, for instance; and for milk the Holstein. But every breed
has its special points, which you should study carefully.

THE JERSEY Today, in point of popularity, the Jersey ranks first.
A sort of public sentiment has been built up about her
dainty person, docile temper and good manners. Back of all her beauty
is undeniable butter. Her tests of milk yield show the highest average of
5.61% butter-fat. Indeed, the breed was developed for butter production
chiefly and in quantity of milk flow is outclassed by some others, especially

120

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

the Guernsey and Holstein. The Jersey is perhaps the purest of all breeds.
No other has been so protected from crosses and infusion of less aristo-
cratic blood. Early in the history of the type, breeders realized they must
closely safeguard the fine points they had gained. In the island of Jersey,
the breed's original home, laws were passed prohibiting the importing into
the island of cattle from other lands, except as beef for immediate slaughter.
The Jersey in the United States dates back to the first importation in 1853;
and its popularity was quickly established. There has been a little objection
to the Jersey cow on account of small size and general tendency to delicacy,
making a little more care necessary in housing and management, but still
her milk pail fills to the brim, and still her butter test holds its mark. And
to look at her fine skin of soft cream color, or tawny white, sometimes with
shades of red or steel gray, who could fail to give her all the praise
enthusiastic breeders sing for their "Queen of Dairy Cows?"

To January 31, 1911, the tests of 780 Jersey cows for year's periods,
authenticated by representatives of State Experiment Stations, have been
accepted by the American Jersey Cattle Club. These tests average 7844 Ibs.
7 oz. milk, 421 Ibs. 3 oz. butter-fat, the average percentage of fat being 5.403.

A Fine Type of Jersey

Divided into eight classes according to age, the averages are as
follows:

1. Cows under two years — Average, 6059 Ibs. milk, 324 Ibs. 14 oz. fat.

2. Cows two years and under two and one-half years — Average, 6847
Ibs. 15 oz. milk, 349 Ibs. 9 oz. fat.

3. Cows two and one-half years and under three years — Average,
7180 Ibs. 2 oz. milk, 386 Ibs. 14 oz. fat.

4. Cows three years and under three and one-half years — Average,
7311 Ibs. 4 oz. milk 394 Ibs. 2 oz. fat.

5. Cows three and one-half years and under four years — Average,
7630 Ibs. milk, 408 Ibs. 12 oz. fat.

6. Cows four years and under four and one-half year? — Average, 7993
Ibs. 14 oz. milk, 442 Ibs, 8 oz. fat.

DAIRY HERD 1?1

7. Cows four and one-half years and under five years — Average, 8753
Ibs. 5 oz. milk, 469 Ibs. 8 oz. fat.

8. Cows five years and over — Average, 9285 Ibs. 3 oz. milk, 495 Ibs.
3 oz. fat.

How does your Jersey compare?

THE HOLSTEIN In point of numbers recorded the Holstein leads and
has for several years past. In actual milk flow the

Holstein easily comes first, 40 to 60 Ibs. daily being a common average,

running 7,500 to 8,000 Ibs. a year. In per cent, of butter-fat the Holstein

ranks after all other breeds, practically in this order:

Jersey 5.61% butter-fat

Guernsey 5.12% butter-fat

Ayreshire 3.58% butter-fat

Shorthorn 3.47% butter-fat

Holstein 3.46% butter-fat

But in average total yield the Holstein holds the world's record, with

Colanth 4th's Johanna's yield of 998.26 Ibs. butter-fat.

Missouri Chief Josephine— A College Educated Cow who is making Holstein history

The Holstein is a large sized, short horned, lowland breed native to the
low, fertile lands of Europe on the North Sea. Friesland, Holland, famous
for its butter production, is the central home of the Holstein, which breed
is often known as the Holstein-Friesland. From here some 10,000 head of
foundation stock have been distributed through the farms all over America.
As an all-round dairy type this breed, the result of two thousand years
of conservative development in Friesland, is by some considered superior
to any other breed, on account of: —

1. Size, strength and general vitality;

2. Capacity for full utilization of rough feed;

3. Large milk yield;

4. Prepotency when used to grade up scrubs;

5. Ready marketability of carcass for beef.

122

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

The high percent of solids and comparatively low butter-fat, cause
many to urge Holstein milk as especially valuable as a perfect food for
invalids or children, of good substance and easily digested.

The Holstein reaches full height at two and a half years, full breadth
and maturity at five. In Holland it is never allowed to live beyond seven
years, and is then fattened for market. Because it can thus be finished
as beef the breed is exceedingly popular in the United States. Holstein
calves are large at birth, grow rapidly and can be fattened quickly for
veal. The breed is excellent for grading up scrubs. They make good use
of some quite inferior feed stuffs and are noticeable for a general hardi-
ness and vitality under various conditions. To reach their greatest use-
fulness, the Holstein, like all good cattle, must be grown right on from
calf to finish and not allowed to get stunted.

CHEATING "The stingy feeder cheats himself as well as the cow"
THE COW is homely philosophy. - If you have Holsteins, which are
a large breed, provide plenty of "raw material" for your
factory product.

SOME HOLSTEIN De Kol Creamelle, one of the Holstein champions,
TOP-LINERS gave 26,684 pounds of milk in a year. In 1907 the

World's champion butter cow, Colantha 4th's Jo-
hanna, gave 998^4 Ibs. of butter-fat in 27,432 pounds of milk. A new record
for the Holstein is Missouri Chief Josephine on the farm of the College
of Agriculture in the University of Missouri. Her record for six months
(1910) is 17,000.8 Ibs. -which is 1,458
Ibs. better than the record of Colantha
4th's Johanna. Her year record is
26,825 Ibs. of milk. Her butter test is
4.1 percent. She, gives more milk in
two months than most cows give in
a year. She produces just about her
own weight in milk every fortnight.
It costs about 77 cents per day to fire
her furnace with good wet feed, alfalfa
and corn silage. But she earns over
$4.00 per day on this ration. She's
only a dumb creature, but she is
worth as much to the world as the
average electrician or mechanic.

In color Holsteins are black and
white — not mixed, but colors sharply
defined, black spots on a white ground.
In this new champion Josephine,
white predominates, but head and
neck are spotted, with a few dabs of black on sides and tail. Pure bred
Holsteins have always pure white feet and white tassel on the tail.

De Kol, Queen La Polka 2nd, (Holstein) She
gave 3,376 Ibs. milk in 30 days.

THE GUERNSEY The Guernsey, formerly called the Alderney, is a
close cousin to the Jersey and comes from the islands

of Guernsey and Alderney, in that same group of English isles of which
Jersey is the largest. The Guernsey resembles the Jersey in shape and
form, though somewhat larger and coarser, and in color tending to yellow-
ish, brownish, or reddish fawn, with white. Its hoofs are amber, and

DAIRY HERD 123

a rich yellow secretion is a characteristic of the Guernsey, on which
breeders lay stress in judging points. Yeksa Sunbeam, who made 14,920.80
Ibs. milk yield at nine years old, is the Guernsey champion, with 5.75%
butter-fat, a very high performance. There have been many high indi-
vidual Guernsey records, though fewer official tests than for the Jersey
or Holstein. A good average for butter-fat for this breed is 5.12%. The
fat globules are very large, and of rich yellow color; which makes the
Guernsey very popular for butter. Like the Jerseys, they are considered
somewhat delicate, suited to the mild climate of their native isles. The
temperament of both bulls and cows of this breed have been developed and
handled on the Island in a manner that would indicate gentleness and
quietude. This even temperament has been very conducive to the adapt-
ability of the breed to the various climates and conditions of the world at
large. The only hindrance to their widespread introduction has been the
fact that for the last few years there have not been enough animals to
supply the demand. At the present time they are largely on private estates
and places where high-class dairy products are demanded, and few, if any,
breeding Guernseys from the speculative standpoint.

The American Guernsey Herd Register requires of all cows entered
that they must produce from two years old, or before, not less than 6,000
Ibs. of milk, and this is scaled up to a minimum of 10,000 Ibs. of milk for
cows five years old and over. The butter-fat record for the year must have
a minimum of 250.5 Ibs. at 2 years old, and at 5 years a minimum of 350 Ibs.
The American Guernsey Cattle Club was organized in 1877. It has pub-
lished 21 volumes of the Herd Register and has recorded, up to March 6,
1911, 18,722 males and 34,758 females, a total of 53,480.

The Guernsey breed was the first to establish an Advance Register of
the basis of yearly production of butter-fat. At present the highest milk
record is 18,458.80 Ibs., and several cows have made butter-fa't equivalent
to more than 1,000 Ibs. of butter in a year. The average for 1,200 records
is 8,074.28 Ibs. milk; 410.44 Ibs. butter-fat. _ ... £&*

How do your Guernseys compare?

THE AYRESHIRE Ayreshires, from the country of Ayr, southwest
Scotland, may well be considered next. Though not

yet so popular as the Jersey, Holstein and Guernsey, the Ayreshire is rapidly
growing in popular favor. This is the youngest of the thoroughbred dairy
breeds. The average milk yield stands up well in comparison with all other
dairy breeds; but there are no sensational individual performances, although
of late the Ayreshire has materially advanced in individual yield, both of
milk and butter. The Ayreshire is a mixed breed: In color it includes red,
brown and white, sometimes combining all three colors, and easily reverts
to white, which was the color of the native, wild original. Perhaps
the most favored color is dark red, with about one third pure white in
splashes, and face white clear down over the mouth. One thing about the'
Ayreshire is its general excellence, as distinct from spectacular individual
performances. The udder development is good, extending well up behind
and coming far forward. In the Pan-American test (1901) the five Ayre-
shires ranked second, right next to the Holstein, in milk production,
though lower (4th place) in butter test. Ayreshires are rough, rugged,
good practical animals, bearing up well under rather hard conditions. In
fact, in England, they have been called the poor man's cow. They certainly
are producing cows and the general average is high. There is always good
net profit in an Ayreshire herd.

124

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

The Ayreshire is early maturing. While distinctly wedge-shaped, they
tend to flesh more than the more refined dairy breeds and dress out a good
percent when wanted by the butcher, being heavy in the best paying parts.
They are "grand, big cows" say the breeders; with good udders that milk
all away, good teats, great tortuous veins; they are cows "that handle well,
milk well, and test well."

The American Ayreshire Register requires a minimum of 8,500 Ibs,
of milk for cows over five years old. Here are a few records, each being
the highest in its class:

A Fine Type of Ayreshire (Croftjane Dinah)

Class

Name

Lbs. Milk

Lbs. Fat

Lbs.
Butter

Two Year Old . . .

Hazel of Sand Hill

11,078

627.13

732

Three Year Old ....
Four Year Old

Matie of Sand Hill . . .
Bessie of Rosemont

13,897
14,102

593.16

578.57

692

675

Mature Cow

Rena Ross

15,072

643.71

751

A new record for the Ayreshire is that of Netherhall Brownie IX,
(owned by J. W. Clise, Washington), who has just completed her official
test with 18,110 Ibs. of milk and 820.91 Ibs. butterfat (958 Ibs. butter). She
is now the World's Champion Ayreshire cow. Is it any wonder the
popularity of the Ayreshire breed is continually growing?

How is your Ayreshire doing?

THE DUTCH The Dutch Belted breed, though few in number in the

BELTED United States, or even their home in Holland, are worth

considering on account of their peculiar marking with a

white belt, or blanket, on a black body, This picturesque breed was

DAIRY HERD 125

developed by, and for many years reserved to, the nobility of Holland. It
has some dairy importance; in the Pan-American Dairy test in 1901 ranking
eighth in the contest of ten, though in butter-fat its rank was at the
bottom. In beef it is hardly superior to the dairy breeds. It lacks in size
and while thriving on abundant feed and care it does not tend to produce
great flesh. Its picturesque quality is one of the strongest claims for atten-
tion. Like the Highland cattle in connection with breeds of the beef type,
the Dutch Belted has been employed for purposes of contrast. They were
first imported to this country in 1838; but while now scattered from New
York to California, they are not found in numbers; and on account of their
scarcity, there are almost no Dutch Belted steers on the market.

"NONE OTHER GENUINE" The Dutch Belted do very well for
THE POOR MAN'S COW novelty or beauty. But it takes the

Kerry, from the mountains of western

Ireland, to live up to the real definition of a "poor man's cow." Kerry are
small, in color black, red or roan. But whatever the color, they fill the
milk pail and make it worth while to churn for butter. When at last
they come to the block they may not show much beef, but what they have
is of excellent quality. The breed has a positive genius for grazing, and
gets along with the least possible care. What would the Irish laborer do
without this cow? It is true the Kerry is slow maturing; but this fault
is undoubtedly due to the hard conditions under which it has been bred.
Well cared for in this country, Kerry cows sometimes produce calves at
three years; but in Ireland the sixth or seventh year is the average.

THE DAIRY MAN Come now to another practical consideration. It is,
perhaps, just as necessary to develop dairy men as it
is to develop dairy cows.

Two milkers of a herd show, one, full pails and contented animals; the
other scant pails, fretting, impatient cows, and sores developing on the sensi-
tive udders. Is anything very serious the matter?

Talk about dairy temperament in the show ring! Better apply the
test to the new hired hand. Gentle handling, proper stabling, punctual and
sufficient feeding, are prime characteristics in the profitable type of man
to care for dairy cows.

On these depend that CLEANLINESS, COMFORT, CONTENT-
MENT which are the chief requisites for a profitable dairy herd.

Don't spoil your good breed by a bad type dairy man.

CLEANLINESS Cleanliness means, beside general order of things, proper
care of the manure, in which some say a fourth of dairy
profit is to be found. Cleanliness includes white-washing once a year, and
brushing down cobwebs, especially from the windows. Light shows up the
dirt — makes it easier to keep the barn clean. A dark stable is almost
always dusty and dirty. A barn should be light as a dwelling. Cleanliness
means spraying a good disinfectant at regular intervals, such as Nox-i-cide
Dip and Disinfectant, which mixes with water and is therefore cheap.
Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant is an ideal stable disinfectant, as it destroys
odors, prevents flies from breeding, and destroys all germs. But see page 9.

COMFORT Comfort means at all times adequate protection: in summer,
from buzzing, nerve tormenting, milk-reducing, flesh-shrivel-
ing flies; in winter safety from exposure, especially to chilling winds. Try
this experiment. Leave the best cow out in the cold winds, and see for

126 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

yourself how exposure will take the milk out of her faster than she can
put it in. In summer make the fly spray test: Spray Conkey's Fly Knocker
about the barn or stable, and spray cows just before milking or while out
on the pasture. Instead of giving most of her energy to tail lashing, Brown
Betsy or Lilly Lass will chew her cud with vigor, in the spaces between quiet
grazing, and you can be sure of her full milk production.

22 POUNDS OFF! Missouri Chief Josephine, the Holstein record
breaker, is always fully protected from flies. On one

occasion when this care was omitted she decreased tweuty-two pounds a
day in milk production. Cheaper to fight flies for your herd in summer than
to lose out on your milk contracts. One enthusiast writes that "Conkey's
Fly Knocker is worth the cost in one milking."

MORE CALVES There never was a time in the history of dairying when
milk cows were so scarce as now. The great need of

our dairy sections is to raise more calves and buy fewer and to breed for
dairy points from pure bred sires whose dams show good performance,
and whose grand-dams, even, were "some punkins" at the milkpail. When
breeding for dairy cows, you are breeding for storage and reservoirs.
Weed out all that fail individually to meet the requirements, no matter how
pure the blood.

MILK SUBSTITUTES Dairies which need all their milk supply for their

FOR CALVES contracts must use substitutes for feeding calves.

They can frequently buy skim milk, which with hay

and grain makes the best substitute for whole milk for calves. It gives
an average daily gain of ll/2 Ibs., or about 300 Ibs. at 5 months. Another
milk substitute, somewhat sensational but standing up to actual test, is
bean soup,— the navy beans boiled until soft, then squeezed through a
colander and made into a salty soup. With this, some shorts, blood meal
and cottonseed meal, and the ration will be found very cheap. Feed about
three quarts to a calf. Clover hay and corn fodder make good forage for
growing calves.

THAT YOUNG HEIFER Breed her at about 21 months, so that she will

drop her first calf at 2*/2 years. During that

time feed extra well; for you see she is still an immature, growing animal,
and you can't afford to check her development for that of the first calf.
Gentle manipulation of the udder at regular times will tend to increase its
development, hence future capacity. Then when the calf comes be sure
to turn the young heifer over to the best, most rapid, most skilful milker,
as the manner of milking will increase the milk supply. Do not breed her
again until six months after. first calving. Try to keep up her milk flow by
skilful management in milking and care and water and feed; for you must
establish right now the milk habit. She should keep up a good flow up
to 2 'months of the time of her next calving; and if her butter record for
the whole time is something between 200 and 250 Ibs. you can call it satis-
factory. If less than that, — to the butcher, for he needs her more than
you do in the dairy. Also, if she goes dry before the limit set in this first
test, don't waste time with her but finish her quicklv for beef. After this
second calving the young heifer can be bred immediately, as is the usual
custom with dairymen. With mature cows the best results are obtained
by requiring them to freshen each year, permitting, each cow to go dry for

DAIRY HERD 127

6 weeks to 2 months a year. Of course there are instances of cows keeping
a good flow for 2 or even 3 years without calving but this is hardly a profit-
able plan.

THE CALVING SEASON Distribute the calving season, letting most of

the cows calve in the fall; then you'll have
plenty of winter milk at the season when milk brings most money.

THE DAIRY BULL Absolutely he is the best animal you can find for
the biggest sum you can appropriate to that pur-
pose. When you want to economize go without neckties, or even socks,
but don't economize in the matter of your dairy bull.

A good one, pure bred, with a record in the family, especially on the
maternal side, for milk-pail performance, will grade up your herd in short
order, even if ordinary to start with. But there is an even better test —
the record of his daughters. If he gets good daughters keep him, as long
as he is serviceable. Do not sell a good bull simply to get new blood. Keep
him right up to condition, with not too much fattening feed, but a good
ration of ground roots, wheat bran, gluten meal, oil meal, silage and clover
hay. Give him 5 to 6 Ibs. grain per 1,000 Ibs. live weight, for daily ration.
Keep him well exercised. Keep him .fit and fancy. ,Turn over to page 47
under Feeds and Feeding and also- read what is said about Conkey's
Stock Tonic if you- want to help your fulL blood animal to perfect per-
formance in breeding. This is a most vital subject, the basis of pure
blood in your whole herd. You can't afford to lose time by failure in
even one generation. You want to get each .time a gojod share of what
you breed for. Don't trust simply to nature's go-easy method, hit or miss,
— a sort of survival of the fittest. At sq, much per head you can't afford
any unfit. There are tried and trusty rules for making a good dairy calf.
Results are just as practically certain as your wife's best recipe for ginger
cookies.

THE DAIRY RATION In general a good cow eats more than a poor

cow. The capacity for feeding is a pretty good

gauge of production. Look for large capacity, and then feed full up to
capacity. Most farmers don't feed enough. When you feed a cow the
first 50 to 60% of capacity goes for maintenance. When you cut off from
full capacity you simply cut off your own profit; for the cow takes care of
her own body first. It's the over-and-abovc •maintenance ration that goes
to milk production. You will find page 35 in its own section the general dis-
cussion of feeding, but it is well to state again that on the factory basis you
must supply your cows with feed in proportion to production. Give them
all the roughage they will eat up clean. When it comes to concentrates, that
is grain, a good rule is to feed each cow every day as many pounds as she
shows pounds of butter-fat in her weekly performance.

F. W. WOLL'S Here are some specimen rations selected from F. W.
RATIONS Woll, arranged for different parts of the country. With

good individuals they'll give good milk production. You
can select according to local conditions, and vary to suit the individual
cow.

1. All she'll eat of cornstalk, with 20 Ibs. hay, 3 Ibs. wheat bran, 2 Ibs.
oil meal.

2. All she'll eat of stover; with 20 Ibs. roots, 3 Ibs. oats, 3 Ibs. bran
and 3 Ibs. gluten feed.

128 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

3. All she'll eat of clover hay, 35 Ibs. corn silage, 2 Ibs. bran.

4. All she'll eat of corn fodder, 40 Ibs. corn silage, 2 Ibs. shorts, 2 Ibs.
dried brewer's grains, 2 Ibs. oil meal.

5. Or with alfalfa, say 20 Ibs. alfalfa hay, 4 Ibs. oats, 2 Ibs. cornmeal.
Just why these are satisfactory milk rations you will readily see when

you read over the general section on Feeds and Feeding.

A POINTER Never throw down feed immediately before milking; or
ON FEEDING you'll get a crop of floating straws, seed, dust, etc., with
the milk, especially if you are milking into a common un-
suitable style of milk pail with top wide-flaring so as to catch all the filth
that's going. To avoid this a good plan is to follow some such dairy
program as given by the Cornell Experiment Station for winter manage-
ment, as follows: 1, milking; 2, feeding grain; 3, feed silage; 4, clean
gutters; 5, water stock; 6, feeding hay; 7 grooming; 8, turn out in the.
barnyard when pleasant (best time is 2 hours early in afternoon); 9, water
stock; 10, clean stables; 11, feed grain; 12, milking; 13, feed silage; 14, ar-
range bedding. When a man has followed this daily program it is with
a clear conscience he can put the pin in the barn door for the night.

MORE HOME- One great need for profitable dairy farming is more suc-
GROWN FEED culent feeds and especially more home-grown feeds, in-
creasing forage crops and reducing pastures. This means
more careful rotation of crops, and increasing use of the silo. Many
dairymen today do almost entirely without pasture, even in summer sea-
son, but rely on soiling, raising plenty of good forage crops which can be
cut and carried to the barn for the animals. Double crops and silos are
the aim of thousands of ambitious farmers, reducing acreage, but making
possible a larger dairy, with small risk from droughts. But the whole
big subject of feeding dairy cows can only be touched on here. A fuller
account is aimed at page 35 under Feeds and Feeding.

DOUBLE-BARRELED The aim is to increase the amount of production
PROFIT and lessen the cost of producing. A reduction

of 10 percent in cost means a bigger profit than

an advance of, say, 2 cents a pound in butter. Feed that is home-grown
costs less than what you buy, and is better for both cow and owner.

GETTING FOOD The great thing to remember with cows is to keep up

OUT OF FEED their appetites so they will relish and make use ot

their feeds. If it is not palatable, a feed is just that

much less digestable. They may eat it; but there is a larger proportion
of the substance untouched in digestion. It makes not milk or flesh, but
manure. Another point in digestion is this: more than one-half the live
weight of animals is water; and 85 percent of the milk yield is water, 01
course. Now water is the universal solvent, — the substance by means of
which all animals and plants make nourishing use of the elements they
absorb. So, for complete digestion, furnish the animals with plenty of
water. And for milk production, remember what a high percent of water
there is in milk, and take deep thought of the old milkman's joke about
"watering the milk before it comes from the cow." A 6 gallon milker
needs just twice as much water as a 3 gallon milker. Some dairymen
say a cow needs about 2 Ibs. of water and 1 Ib. of feed to each pound of
milk produced. At the time Missouri Chief Josephine was giving 100 Ibs.
of milk per day she drank fully 31 gallons of water — warm water of

DAIRY HERD 129

course, so as not to chill her internal organs and so cut down milk pro-
duction. You've noticed, haven't you, that a cow will drink a good deal
more water when it is comfortably warm, and always before her?

HELP THE The dairy animal is one with large drains upon her

DAIRY BEAUTY powers. Every year conditions for dairy herds be-
TO DO HER BEST come more and more unnatural. Best care and feed-
ing are the first need for the dairy herd; but an oc-
casional tonic is actually demanded. Conkey's Stock Tonic should be
given — a half tablespoonful in the feed twice a day — not continuously but
from time to time, as a tonic and alterant. If ailing, a dairy cow should
have one full tablespoonful once a day. It will tone up the capillaries of
the system, increase the intestinal secretions, rid the digestive tract of
worms. Its action on the circulation, through tightening the walls of the
blood vessels, is another important factor and helps to counteract the bad
effects of little exercise, from which the dairy animal is almost sure to
suffer.

THE MILK PAIL TEST It's cheaper to raise your dairy calf than to buy

a satisfactory cow. If a cow is extra good she

usually is not for sale — not if her owner knows it. When you have selected
your dairy cow watch her, with an encouraging but suspicious eye. She
may be fooling you. She may have all the good dairy conformation and
show a good appetite, and still fail at the milk pail.

"PROVING" Know what each cow is doing. If you don't know what each
A COW cow is doing, you don't know what you are doing. Only

actual figures for weighing and testing will show you.

HOW A COW Weigh each cow's milk for three days each month and

"MAKES GOOD" multiply the sum by 10 to give the monthly average.

Put it down in black and white every month for the

full twelve months in the year. Add the total. If it shows less than 5,000
Ibs. for a year's work, and you've given good care, then that cow is a
swindler, imposing on you for her daily feed. In all fairness, if she is a cow
of good type and receiving good care — in short, if she is a "good cow" — she
ought to show 6,000 Ibs. of milk at the end of the year, which is 2,800 quarts.
She should also show a test average of 3.5 to 4 per cent butter-fat.

WEIGHT There you are — weight and test. Both are needed. Some
VS. TEST farmers think they have a good cow, just because she has a
good yield. The barns are full of cows that test 3%; but it
takes just twice as much 3% milk to make a pound of butter as it does 6%
milk. Another thing, don't figure a milk yield on anything but a yearly
basis. Your feed bill and operating expenses are on a yearly basis, aren't
they? Keep a cheerful but suspicious eye on the milk sheet. Some cows,
like humans, are "four flushers." Don't be fooled by a big show of produc-
tion that doesn't hold out. Get rid of Bossy if she milks heavily for just
five or six months and then goes dry in spite of care and feed.

Weighing milk keeps you right in touch with the herd's condition. If
there is any shrinkage you can find out at once just where the trouble is —
whether with the milkers or with the feed, or with an individual cow.
Your milk sheet is the surest gauge of your feeding system and what it's
doing for you.

130

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

JUST A Any old record, ink or lead pencil, a regular form

CALENDAR — SURE blank if you have it (and you can get a pad free

just by asking the G. E. Conkey Company for it).

But keep a record, even if you have to use a plain sheet. One practical
dairyman uses a calendar pad for each cow; and after milking jots down
the result, until he can make his estimate. These figures don't get away
from him, and you can just bet his dairy pays!

For, after all, while there are
many and various breeds — all told
about 100 — the real question is not
a choice of breeds but choice of
cows: and there are just two kinds
of cows: (1) the profitable and (2)
the unprofitable.

Which kind are you feeding

now:

r?

If it's a fair question, which
kind is your "choice?"

Does your record show?

Stick to the scales and the Babcock test!

Which is the Better Milker?

II. Running a Dairy for Profit

Looks like a man would be excused for saying that if there is any busi-
ness in heaven the dairymen's would be one of the few allowed.

It's certainly pleasant to think about — a herd of healthy, happy, "tested"
cows (in heaven of course they'd all be Missouri Chief Josephines, Yeksa
Sunbeams, Colantha 4th Johannas, etc.) in a clean cemented stable, com-
fortable and well bedded. Stalls, light, ventilation, everything first-class
and better yet than that. Food, water, everything abundant and of the best,
you bet you. No stifling dust or odor in the barn itself. Milking utensils
bright as a new-minted dollar and a good deal more sanitary. You can
see those milk pails if you shut your eyes; all clean from hot water brush-
ing— no soap, but perfect rinsing in a pure water supply; sterilized — abso-
lutely germless; small topped, and even that opening partly covered from
floating dust, fodder, seed, etc. You smell nothing but that good fragrant
cow odor that comes with the good milk cow's quick breathing and soft
heaving flanks.

THE MILKERS You see the milking squad — a sound, clean set of men —
get into their white milking suits and start to work,
with absolutely clean, dry hands. Like as not you'll

want to rush into a white milking suit yourself, but the foreman somewhere
says not; there's to be no rushing — just quiet, gentle doing all the time — no

well-bred gentlewoman of the land is so upset and
ruffled by any noisy, bustling, rowdy behavior as
these pure-bred milk cows. It's the gentle
handler gets the milk; for the cow responds to
the coaxing fingers just as she would do to her
own sucking calf. You see each milker go over
the body of the animal with damp cloth to gather
any dirt or dust from the hide, so that it may not
fall into the milk pail. With a separate clean wet
A practical milking stool with cloth he brushes the udders carefully, and sees
platform, so milk pail can- that they are perfectly clean. He discards the
not upset. first stream from each of the four teats into a

RUNNING A DAIRY 131

separate milk vessel. Then milks quietly, cleanly, down to the last and
richest drops.

HANDLING Then you see the proper handling of the dairy product. It
MILK isn't allowed to stand open in the barn, however sanitary

and clean. Warm milk develops bacteria of all kinds
rapidly when at a temperature of from 70 degrees to 100 degrees; but very
slowly when 50 degrees. At Cornell experiment station an open milk pail,
under better than average clean conditions, absorbed 5,000,000 germs in
seven minutes. The milk in the ideal dairy is taken to a sanitary room for
handling and is cooled promptly, that is, within 15 minutes, to 45 degrees
'or lower. Then carefully it is packed, sealed for protection in transit, and
carried still at a low temperature, to its final market in less than twenty-
six hours.

That would be milk fit to offer an ideal market.

And no milk less fit should be offered in any market.

The market demand is for just such milk; and it will pay in turn any
dairyman's prices. A quality market calls for quality milk. It pays quality
prices.

There's always a chance for the product just a leetle mite better than
the market's best; and it doesn't grudge the difference tacked on for the
product. There is a top price waiting for every pint of clean milk. Clean
milk means clean milkers, clean cows, clean utensils, clean atmosphere.

CLEAN MILK Milk is just as clean as the dirtiest thing it comes in
contact with from cow's body to consumer.

Does that hit your dairy in any detail of milk management? It doesn't
concern us here, but we may as well take a chance at another big truth —
that the biggest cause for contamination is after the city housewife gets
the product and leaves it around in open vessels, or in various unsuitable
atmospheres, or pours it out for her household in far from germ-free
"clean" receptacles.

But never mind the city housewife! She'll get hers.

SAFE MILK Safe milk is milk handled with every sanitary precaution
to guard against filth and germs, but it goes back a step
farther — the milk must come from disease-free herds. Tuberculosis is not
always told by inspection, and the only safe rule, whether called for by the
local law or not, is to have each cow in your dairy tested every year or
two, and more often if needed.

The Evolution of a Milk Pail

PROFITABLE A gallon of milk usually weighs about 8 Ibs. 9^ ounces.
MILK Profitable milk is milk produced from cows averaging at

least 4,000 Ibs. of 3.5 percent milk annually from a ration
economically "balanced" (see page Feeds and Feeding) on the principle
of largest producable output on lowest possible raw-material.

Makes a good many syllables, but it means just what we said before —
look for the double-barrel profits; make sure you're not a waster

(1) Of the money invested in raw material, feed;

132 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

(2) Of the money invested in dairy cows;

(3) Of the marketable product, whether milk or butter, on account of
lack of care in getting it to consumer.

Fit these few suggestions on dairying to your own management, and
you'll deserve and win one of those comfortable little fortunes so common
nowadays from dairying.

III. Dual-Purpose Breeds

Some very pretty things have been hoped and some very ugly things
have been said of the dual-purpose cow.

Is the idea right or wrong, anyhow? We may, or may not, agree.

But this much is certain: Even the most profitable dairy breed must
produce some veal for the butcher and come to the block herself at the
end. Our dairy steers we must fatten and put in tolerable flesh for market.

YANKEE "IDEE!" It's a good American idea anyway, if it does ask a
good deal of the cow.

THE DUAL- A dual-purpose animal lacks the width and smoothness

PURPOSE TYPE of the beef type, has more neck, more leg, narrower

withers and puts on less flesh than does the beef; but

it is smoother (meat more even), less angular and tends more to flesh than
does the dairy type. During the milking period the dual-purpose animal
often loses flesh to a noticeable degree; but after drying off it tends to
regain its beef losses. But, of the so-called dual-purpose breeds, we classify
each individual specimen according to whether it tends more to beef or to
the dairy type. Given a dual-purpose breed, for instance, Red Poll, Short-
horn, Devon, .Brown Swiss, etc., it becomes a matter of judging whether
the individual tends to (1) beef or (2) dairy type.

THE SHORTHORN We've had a deal to say about this breed already,
where it belongs according to breeding science —

high up among beef breeds. But here she comes the Shorthorn of milking
strain, and heads the list for the man who has a small farm and wants a
thoroughly practical cow. Hence we distinguish between the fat Shorthorn,
that is beef animal, and the dairy Shorthorn, which certainly, if actions
count, behaves pretty much like an ideal dual-purpose cow. Short horns
have made some high tests. They are extremely popular because so adapt-
able to various conditions; but they should not be selected for hard winter
climates if expected to be out on range.

THE RED POLLED The Red Polled is a breed rather inclined to beef,
as will be seen on page 138, but they have long been

familiar in this country as a dual-purpose breed. In fact "Muley" (or polled)
cows of a red color have been common in the United States ever since
Colonial times. Their original home was in the eastern part of England.
In some respects they are our truest form of dual-purpose animal. Their
milk flow is fairly full during lactation; and then on drying off they easily
fatten. In most of the dairy or beef points they easily rank very fair,
which for a dual-purpose animal means very good indeed. They have
rather less dairy temperament than the Shorthorns. In milk production
at the Pan-American test (1901) they took fifth place among the contestants.

DUAL-PURPOSE BREEDS 133

They test about 3.5 percent butter-fat, with higher performance of indi-
vidual stars. Red Polls are useful for crossing or grading, and are very
prepotent for their red color, the polled head. This is important, for
the polled head is an improvement when grading a horned herd. It is
especially important as a beef consideration, as is shown by the strong
preference for hornless cattle — perhaps as there is less liability to accident
in shipping.

THE DEVON The Devon breed is one of the oldest. Its home is Devon
or the neighboring county of Somerset, England. It prob-
ably comes from a small type breed of ancient Britain. Devons were first
introduced into America in 1817, and have grown very popular as active
grazers on range or pasture. Their meat quality is good, though they are
small in size. From the dairy view, they have considerable credit in butter-
fat, and most individuals come up to the test. There are practically no
remarkable individual performances in this breed. The Devon is beautiful
to look at — deerlike, refined. Its color is a bright red, with occasionally
white on the udder. There are two types, the North and the South Devon.
Both are popular and widely distributed; but the day of Devon glory seems
to be waning, for they are not nearly so well thought of as in former days.

BROWN SWISS Swiss cattle are also of two kinds: the well known
Brown Swiss, and the Switzerland — an even more popu-
lar variety called Simmenthal, or spotted kine. Only the Brown Schwyzer
have been bred and imported into this country. These Brown Swiss are a
hardy type, good Alpine climbers; in their own country browzing at the
high altitude grazing line during the summer, in winter descending to the
sheltered valleys and lowlands, and requiring comfortable quarters. They
are very ancient cattle, without a doubt; but in this country date only from
1869. Since then systematic attention has been given to their breeding and
importation, but they have not yet become popular. In form, Brown Swiss
suggest the beef type, yet they are slow maturing. Cows reach 1300 Ibs.
to 1400 Ibs. at maturity; males run 1500 to 2000. The udder is generally
of good size, with teats and milk veins prominent. In the Pan-American
Dairy Test referred to (1901) they ranked third. The percent of butter-fat
is only fair, being 3.30 on the average, but is excellent for cheese making,
and has sent the fame of Swiss cheeses around the world. They are adapt-
able to mountain conditions, but have never been really tried out on our
western ranges. Of good animal vigor, the breed is excellent for giving
new hardiness to a herd. It would be just the cross to use with a grade
dairy herd — say of Guernsey or Jersey characteristics — to raise the beef
value.

RAISING VEAL Whether or not we believe in dual-purpose, there is,
AND BABY BEEF as explained in the beginning, a beef view to every
cow; and any dairy region must to some extent con-
cern itself with raising marketable calves. For baby beef, i. e., early ma-
tured beef, quickly forced and fattened, there is a plain advantage in timing
calves for fall, when with skim milk and grain and a little proper roughage,
they can get through the winter nicely until pastures are ready in the spring.
On the other hand, a calf brought up on milk and grass during the favorable
summer season, is pretty sure to have a setback when put into winter
quarters. When not wanted for baby beef, it is just as well to have the
calves in the spring, as is usually preferred by dairymen. But with warm
barns and ample dairy ration, the fall calf brings full winter milk supply,
and that's a big advantage. Compare what was said on this head page 127.

134 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

under Dairy. Raising of baby beef is something of a specialty. As already
indicated, it takes a good breed and "good grade of good breed" to come
out with baby beef, forcing the calves right along to "maturity" or market
beef at the age of one or two years. It's clearly a problem for feeding.
The whole system is carefully outlined in the important section on Feeds
and Feeding.

THE PROBLEM Briefly, the problem is — How to cheat nature out of

STATED four years; for nature, old slow-gait spendthrift, wants

five years to develop a 1000 Ib. steer. To get that

weight in one year you must feed way beyond the normal requirement;
and at the same time keep the animal's health and vigor for continued
growing. It is for just such conditions that we advise the more or less
regular use of Conkey's Stock Tonic in the daily ration. This Stock Tonic
is not in any sense a food; but it is a tonic, corrective, alterant and bracer,
which will keep the organs in good function during the forcing process.
In addition, the tonic is treated with certain condimental and other "salts"
to savor the feed, helping the natural appetite so that the forcing ration
will be accepted and digested. But read careful directions, page , and
also the paragraph on appetite in the section on Feeds and Feeding.

It is a profitable thing to master, this feeding for baby beef. Heifers
fattened for beef at one to two years bring as much per pound as steers.
Besides, there is the extra short feeding period for both heifers and steers,
as against the three years' feeding period for full grown beef cattle. The
stockman saves feed stuff and gets more turnovers for his capital invested.
Every dollar in baby beef keeps busy season after season. Needless to
say it is this nimble exercise of turning it over that gives growth to a
dollar.

IV. Beef Breeds

Good-bye, Cattle King!

Guess it's better for all of us the old extravagant days of the
frontier range are gone forever, the land now cut up in improved allot-
ments, and the beef herds gathered in smaller compass. There's a chance
for more of us in the business, and a better show for the dollars. We
may lose something in long horn and cowboy equipment; but we can
still get that, when we want it, in moving picture shows and Eastern
melodrama.

This is the day of concentration of time, energy and money: more
cattle in smaller space; more beef per head of cattle; quicker, better finish
for market; more expensive feed and more of it; but bigger, better, safer
profits.

Any kind of cattle, with any kind of horns, and any length of leg, were
utilized under the old system of raising beef for market. But today the
market demand is higher. A steer must grow right along and be quick
about it. We need the money. He must have plenty of good high-price
cuts, and not so much cheap neck, etc. He shouldn't walk on stilts — these
long leg bones increase the percent of waste as "butcher's offal."

BEEF BREEDS

135

In the old days it took five or six years to
grow a steer to all the growth he would get
and in the end the quality of the meat cuts was
only fair. There was no uniformity in the
animals on which the buyer could base his esti-
mate. Pasture was cheap, and there was prac-
tically no care of stock, and but small expense
for the few cowboys and foremen needed. Any
sort of accident might happen — disease, drought
or storm — and now way to guard against it.
On overcrowded ranges you saw cattle die
by the hundreds. In time of drought on the
plains they went down by the thousand. The
disasters of 1884 were the limit of such specu-
lative endurance; moreover the growing sheep
industry helped to overcrowd the ranges; and
a new system of cattle raising began in this country.

Spanish ancestor of long:horn cattle
of Western plain

WHAT WAS Better stock, better care and attention; more sys-

THE NEW SYSTEM? tematic feeding; better market condition; better
market prices — these points make up the new
system.

Of course, beef is higher — why shouldn't it be?

Of course, more is needed, just about a third more is an absolute neces-
sity for scant home consumption. The number of beef cattle in proportion to
population is continually decreasing — decreasing is a slow-gaited word —
jumping down the track is more nearly expressive.

Fact is, we are far short of our own needs. Yet the United States
ranks second in its possession of cattle— we own 71,000,000 of the 430,000,000
which make the world figure. Our population is 99,000,000.
No wonder there's not enough beef to go around!

If you are thinking of going into the beef business, take a long look
around at the beef breeds now developed, and you'll certainly find some
wonderful "critters."

To begin with, a beef animal
should have just as little leg as is
consistent with getting around for
health and convenience. You know
how it is with sheep; and that it's
the low set mutton maker that
dresses out to best advantage.
With beef, too, you find a low
broad deep-hung body, smooth and
evenly covered, not meaty in
patches. The outline is rectangu-
lar or "blocky." The back is
broad, with back and ribs espe-
cially well covered; short neck, for
this neck meat is cheap and the less you have to raise the better. That
blocky, rectangular outline is the main thing, the "parallelogram shape"
with back and belly lines in straight parallel.

SIZE Size is not so important as quality and finish. This is a type more
economical to produce for the feeder and with less waste to the
butcher. In fact, we are all satisfied; for it means better meat for the
consumer.

136 CQNKEY'S STOCK BOOK

SHAPE Shape is the important thing. A compact square shape, in fact,
a block is the thing to look for; ribs well sprung, loins wide and
deep, thighs plump and meaty; in short, room for choice cuts. It must not
be leggy.

QUALITY Quality counts. Look for fine bone, smooth joints, delicate
horns (if any), delicate ears; chief of all, a hide that is fairly
thick and protective, but with hair fine and silky. Hair, you know, is gen-
erally taken to indicate quality.

BEEF BREEDS The cattle that come up to these requirements are
chiefly the Shorthorn or Durham, our old dual-purpose
friend, and the Hereford, Galloway, Devon and Aberdeen-Angus.

WHICH Suit yourself which is best, i. e., best for you. It would be a
IS BEST? waste of time to claim for any one of these fine types relative
superiority. For early maturing qualities and general good
beefing the Aberdeen-Angus takes the lead, according to some thinking.
You know it was the Angus breeds that topped the show at the 1910 Inter-
national in Chicago. But the highest priced steer ever sold in this country
was a Hereford; while the grand champion prize in individual steer classes
at the International 1907 went to a prize Shorthorn, and the same breed
took the reserve championship a year later.

When you've narrowed down to a few breeds, better give up trying to
get it down any farther.

Every breeder or owner has his favorite best breed, just as he has
belief in his favorite best automobile. It is hard to estimate popularity, but
if the Herd Registers are the test, then the Shorthorn must be the most
popular of all the beef cattle breeds.

SHORTHORNS Shorthorns were first imported in 1790; some claim a few
years earlier even. But their real popularity dates from
about 1835, when very large importations were made; and the stock was
generally distributed. Shorthorns are of good beef type and mature at 30
months, being fully grown at four years. While of medium hardiness and
grazing ability, they do very well under all conditions of range and climate.
They are good milkers, as we have seen in the description under dual-
purpose cattle. The home of the Shorthorn was originally the counties of
York, Durham and Northumberland in Northeast England. In fact, they
were often called Durhams. In color they are red, or red with white, some-
times roan, sometimes all white. In the red or roan they are often variously
shaded. As with all dual-purpose cattle, there are fat Shorthorns and dairy
Shorthorns, favoring distinctly one type or the other.

HEREFORD The Hereford is certainly a kingly breed, profitable for beef
production and next to the Shorthorn in popularity when
the Herd Registers are taken as the basis. The Hereford was developed
in England as far back as 1627. The Hereford has made more improvements
over here than any of the beef breeds, with the possible exception of the
Galloway. Breeders have especially set themselves the task of correcting
the throatiness or dewlap and also have greatly improved the rump and
thighs for market. Herefords are big cattle, the males running 2500 Ibs.
mature, the cows 1500. In addition they weigh heavy for size, and show
up well in thick marbled cuts of meat. They mature very early. They
actually are the best of all breeds for "baby beef." But they often fail in

BEEF BREEDS 137

milk and their calves have to be "nursed." This is hardly a serious fault,
however, in face of their other good qualities; and especially as rhany
believe skim-milk fed calves are better anyway for quick fattening, as
their early handling and training stand them in good stead. "Baby beef"
is a specialty, not only of the grower but of the breed. It always requires
pure beef breeds, and good grades of breed. When you get hold of a little
Hereford steer that is carefully bred, it doesn't take him very long to
become literally a "living block of beef." Herefords are red in color, with
white face, white mark from throat along lower part of the body, and white
tip on tail. The breed is a hardy one; more so than the Shorthorn, and also
good rustlers on range.

Champion Angus Cow— The kind that makes juicy beef

ABERDEEN-ANGUS The Aberdeen-Angus probably ranks third in popu-
larity, if we still estimate by the Register; but

what happened at 1910 International may make new history for beef breeds.
Anyway, if you consider the strictly hornless* beef cattle, the Aberdeen-
Angus, is positively first. The Angus comes from a damp and cold climate
and is accustomed to a hilly or mountainous country. Their original home
was the highlands of Northeastern Scotland, the county of Aberdeen. The
Angus is a good grazer, as would be expected from his history and place
of origin. In quality of beef they rank with the Galloways, the best of all.
In fact, they resemble the Galloway in many points, though better milkers.
They have been bred principally for meat since their introduction to this
country in 1873, although in Scotland they are encouraged as milkers. The
Angus is smaller than either Shorthorn or Hereford; but for size is heavier
than any other breed. The rise in popularity has been great since the
introduction of- the breed in this country, as they have been found very
useful in crossing. In fact, the Angus is very prepotent and when used as
a cross 73% to 90% of the offspring are characteristically black and horn-
less. This hornless feature gives them an advantage with buyers, as all
hornless cattle are considered better purchases live weight, as thev suffer
less injury in shipping.

138 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

GALLOWAY The Galloway is also hornless like the Angus. Also like
the good Scotch breed they are famed for excellent beef,
and for good Scotch hardiness on range with considering rustling ability.
In size it is even smaller than the Angus. Galloways likewise have remark-
able vigor in breeding, and Galloway bulls can be relied on for 95% to full
100% transmission of type. This is so, even when crossed with common
cattle, even those that are horned or indifferent in the matter of color. In
time past the Galloway has been criticised for flatness of rib, that is, lack
of spring to the barrel. Another criticism was a lack of readiness to
respond at once to generous keep. These faults have been very much
reduced the past quarter century by careful breeding, so that the Galloway
now takes high rank unchallenged. It is true they are still slow to mature,
and slow to fatten, and still a little flat in the rib. But their bodies are
long, close to the ground, and they have good rumps and hindquarters.
This breed is hornless, not even having any marks or "scurs," as the
Scotchmen call them. The head is rather more flat than peaked, and the

Devon Sussex . Galloway

ears are well back and point straight up. The most noticeable point in
appearance is the beautiful long, wavy black hair, which makes the char-
acteristic and valuable Galloway hide. Black has been thought to show
greater hardiness in the breed, and breeders have tried to fix this black
color in the Galloway. White is now considered a disqualification, though
brown or reddish tint in the hair is thought rather favorable; in fact, is
considered a mark of pure blood. Galloway hides are popular as they
deserve, and expensive as they are popular. Some even compare them
favorably with the famous buffalo, for use in robes, rugs, etc. As said
above, the breed is not over strong in milking, but Galloway cows can
usually take care of their own calves. The best known herds are now in
Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Iowa and Minnesota. The breed came to us
originally over the northern frontier in Michigan (1870) through Scotch
settlers in Canada.

DEVON The Devon breed, while one of the earliest brought to this
country, since we find them in the old colonies, have never
reached the popularity they deserve as beef animals. Maybe this is because
they do not come up to modern weights for beef cattle, and are not so easy
to fatten. They certainly make good beef, what there is of it. The slim
and beautiful horns of the bright red Devon cow (often she is called
"Ruby") are fine in the landscape, but as said before, buyers of beef are
always influenced against horned cattle. The Devon has a good record as
a milker, for which compare page — under Dual-Purpose.

RED POLL The Red Poll (crossed to some extent with Shorthorns and

West Highland cattle) was introduced in the United States

from the east coast of England in 1879, and is very useful for grading

native stock for better beef type. In size Red Polls are smaller than

BEEF BREEDS 139

Shorthorns. They mature early and graze well. They might claim attention
for dual-purpose, as they produce a good quantity of milk. In color they
are bright red, with white tip on tail and udder. See also under Dual-
Purpose.

POLLED DURHAM Polled Durhams are another cross breed, being
Shorthorn stock bred hornless, the result of special

attention in Western Ohio. They are essentially the same as Shorthorns,
their pure sires, though improving in milking qualities. As beef producers
they rank well. They are a very practical type, and are now distributed
pretty thoroughly from the Mississippi to the far west, and are increasing
in popularity.

SUSSEX Another breed distributed in our central valley is the Sussex,

imported in 1884 but hardly yet established as popular, although

we find them in Indiana, Tennessee, Oklahoma and Texas. The Sussex

Aberdeen Angus Hereford Shorthorn

are a large beef breed, in form much like the Hereford, but in color red.
Thus they have the blocky, well sprung, capacious body of a true beef type.
Unfortunately they are horned, which is against them for shipping. In
their original Sussex home in England the breed was much used for draft
and farm purposes. They are early maturing, though not as early as the
Hereford; but in grazing qualities they equal that breed. They would
certainly do well in the Mississippi Valley; and enterprising stockmen are
uniting to increase their popularity there. The Sussex would be valuable
for crossing on ordinary grade cattle for beef purposes. They dress out
at an unusually high percent. The following is averaged from Prof.
Henry's table:

1 year weight 1452 Ibs ' drsssed 65.42%

2 year weight 1837 Ibs dressed 68.18%

3 year weight 2064 Ibs dressed 67.98%

WEST HIGHLAND A very interesting breed is the West Highland. It-
self a picturesque type — hair long and shaggy, in

color maybe brindle, with horns widespread — the West Highland can easily
be credited with being the descendant of the ancient wild herds of Great
Britain. This breed still has a wonderful hardiness, and can make a living
on a range so bare and poor that any other would surely starve. They
almost surpass the Galloway in this respect. The milk yield is small, but
they grow excellent beef. The animals are small, averaging 900 Ibs. for the
cows, and 1200 for steers. They are hardly suitable for grading up native
stock; but a great many have been imported from the Scottish West High-
lands simply for the purpose of lending contrast to our better known breeds.

140 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

WHAT Buyers nowadays discriminate sharply against cattle

BUYERS WANT with horns, on account of danger in shipping. Good
advice is to dehorn your breeds or select the hornless
variety.

Buyers, too, look for that "finish and glisten — that roll to the hide"
which goes only with good quality.

Buyers look to uniform fleshing, no bare spots, but good even meaty
covering to the frame, quickly told by the hand as it runs over the animal's
back.

A low, blocky animal that matures quickly and sells for high-priced
meat is the profitable beef type.

An unprofitable feeder has legs too long, back too sharp, lines not
straight and blocky, and is thinly or unevenly covered with flesh.

MARKET Beef Cattle— 900-1600 Ibs. Prime if 1200 to 1600 Ibs. Baby

CLASSES beef 800-1000 Ibs. one to two years of age.

Texas and Western Range— Good condition and finish.
Usually bought as "feeders" and finished in the corn belt.

Butcher's Stock — Culls of beef cattle from feeders. Tolerably fat cows,
heifers and bulls which are not in best market condition, though given equal
"finishing" feed as high grade beef animals.

Cutters and Canners — Thinner culls from beef animals. Never choice,
but grade from inferior to good. Includes "bologna" bulls.

Stockers and Feeders — Calves, yearlings, two-year-olds, called feeders
if to be shipped for finishing. 900 to 1000 Ibs. Stockers are 18 months or
more, weighing 450 to 900 Ibs.

Veal Calves — Graded for age, weight and condition, 80 to 160 Ibs.

In all the foregoing, quality and market finish are the first essentials;
but size, appearance and conformation are considered.

Beware of the danger of short feeding. In the spring of the year it
often pays to rush the short-fed cattle to market before the run on south-
western grass-fed cattle begins. But as a rule an animal fed six months
will carry twice as much fat as an animal fed two months, and will bring
from 75% to 100% more money.

The whole big subject of feeding has to be worked down to a science.
Turn to and read carefully the section on Feeds and Feeding, page 20.

West Highland Cow

DISEASES OF CATTLE 141

Common Diseases of Cattle

ABORTION This is one of the most serious dangers the stockman
has to guard against — the cause of his heaviest losses. "Slink-
ing of calves" usually spreads to the whole herd, unless properly treated.
The stockman must be prepared for this danger and save this loss (1) of
calves, (2) of time and expense for resultless breeding, (3) milk flow, for
there is always a set-back, (4) danger to the cow and loss of her immediate
value as a breeder, (5) danger to the whole herd through infection.

There are two causes of cattle abortion, accidents and contagion. Acci-
dents are such as come from slippery or sloping floors, gutters too deep,
fright, chasing by dogs, railway journeys, smutty or rusty fodder, causing
poisoning from ergot; wrong feed, causing indigestion. Contagious abor-
tion is a germ disease and spreads from cow to cow in the herd, or the
bull may carry the infection. The tendency is for the aborted cows to
become immune but they still spread contagion to other animals.

Symptoms If in the first three months of gestation, there is a bloody or
mucous discharge. If in later months, straining, uneasiness,
swelling, hot and sore udders, milk in udders, etc.

Treatment Separate the affected cow from the others. Burn the
offspring and afterbirth. Be on the safe side and treat
all cases as if they were contagious.'' Disinfect thoroughly with a strong
solution cf Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, ^ pint to a gallon
of water, to kill all germs on the premises, and repeat this thorough
disinfecting 10 days later. Wash the external parts of the affected cow with
soap and water, then rinse off with the Nox-i-cide solution, 1 part Nox-i-cide
Dip and Disinfectant to 50 parts water (that is, 5 tablespoonfuls to 2 gallons
of water). Use from 3 to 4 pints of the same strength solution as an injec-
tion and keep this treatment up every day until the vaginal discharge stops
and the appearance of the lining membrane is normal. Give a hypo-
dermic injection, under the skin in the neck every 10 days, using 2 drams
of a 3 per cent, carbolic solution (made up by a druggist with glycerine
and distilled water). All authorities agree that this is both a^ preventive
and a cure for abortion. This is not a serum and note this fact: as yet there
is no true "serum" treatment in America, although experiments are being
tried with serum in Denmark.

Exercise care in giving the hypodermic.* Make sure that the hands
are thoroughly clean and that the skin where the needle is inserted is
thoroughly clean and free from germs, by washing with Nox-i-cide Dip
and Disinfectant solution, 2 tablespoonfuls to a pint of water. The syringe
must be sterilized also, or an abscess may result from germ infection.

Prevention Frequently this trouble cap be avoided by the following pre-
ventive measures:

Disinfect thoroughly with strong Nox-i-cide solution (l/2 part Nox-i-
cide Dip and Disinfectant to 1 gallon of water). With Nox-i-cide solution
(4 tablespoonfuls to 2 gallons of water) wash the external parts of all cows
in the herd whether known to be infected or not; and every ten days give
the carbolic injection, or mix carbolic acid with the soft feed, using 2
drams of acid well diluted with water. This should be given each pregnant
cow every other night during every other fortnight, from the beginning of
the third month to the end of the sixth or seventh month. Also flush out
the sheath of the bull with the Nox-i-cide solution, half the strength of

142 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

above, after each service. Germs of contagious abortion can live fully 7
months in a stable, and at least twice that in the vagina of the cow.

A course of Conkey's Stock Tonic given strictly according to directions
will put more resistance in your stock and act as a general preventive of
abortion. Stock Tonic will correct faults of digestion and thus prevent the
danger of abortion from that cause.

ANAEMIA Symptoms are pale, bloodless condition of the mucous mem-
brane; tongue soft; weak debilitated condition, fast breath-
ing; usually the hair is harsh and dry. This trouble may follow some other
disease or may come from poor food, foul stables, bad ventilation or any-
thing that will rob the blood of vital elements. Lice or other parasites may
cause it.

Treatment Correct the cause of the disease. See that the animal has
good feed and mix with the regular feed Conkey's Stock
Tonic according to directions. This is tonic, alterative treatment, helping
all vital organs to do their work and increasing the blood supply. If lice
are found, treat with Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant according to direc-
tions, or use Conkey's Lice Powder.

ANTHRAX OR A malignant, extremely contagious blood disease due

CHARBON to a bacillus, which thrives in rich, moist soils which

have become infected from animals that have died from

anthrax. It affects overfed cattle, sheep, horses, and sometimes hogs. The
disease is dangerous to man also, though much less fatal.

Symptoms The animal goes down suddenly with fever, loss of appetite,
quick breathing, rapid but feeble pulse; swellings appear,
sometimes hot and painful at the start but becoming cold and painless.
Sometimes there are eruptions, boils, etc. on the body; hemorrhage of
bowels and bladder, etc., also blood from nostril and mouth. The swellings
do not crepitate, or crackle, when touched (which is one difference between
Anthrax and Black Leg). Post mortem examination will show the spleen
enlarged, which is another difference between this disease and the very
similar one called Black Leg.

Treatment Not practical, on account of the extreme danger to attendants
or to other animals in the neighborhood, as infection can
come through flies, mosquitoes, etc., or contact with the diseased body, or
breathing air in its neighborhood. Prevention is the only treatment, and
consists of burning the anthrax carcass or burying it in quicklime, removing
the herd from the dangerous pasture, draining the pasture; thorough
disinfecting of the herd with Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant solution (2
tablespoonfuls to a gallon of water), also thorough disinfection and white-
washing of the premises. Since the very fat, overfed animals are the ones
that succumb quickest to the disease on account of the excess of waste
matter in the blood, it is necessary to guard against bad blood by the use of
Conkey's Stock Tonic when animals are fed heavily. This keeps up digestive
power, stimulates the walls of the blood vessels, increasing circulation and
cleansing the blood from waste and impurities and giving the animal healthy
resistance to blood disorders.

BLACK LEG Black Leg is similar to Anthrax, but affects young ani-
mals only. There is no enlargement of the spleen as in
Anthrax, but there are swellings under the skin on thighs, neck, shoulders,

DISEASES OF CATTLE

143

breast, hock joints, flank or rump; and when these are pressed they give
out a peculiar crackling sound on account of the gas accumulated by the
diseased condition of the blood. Death comes quickly and after death the
diseased place shows a dark color, although the blood is not dark. This
black color gives the name Black Leg or Black Quarter.

Treatment is not practical, because of the danger from infection as in
the case of Anthrax, but the same preventive measures
described under Anthrax can be applied to this disease, disinfecting with
Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, changing pasture, etc. Separate
the well animals from the sick, give each a 6 ounce dose of Epsom salts
to clear the system, and feed on easily digested food for at least two
weeks, with Conkey's Stock Tonic mixed with the feed to insure proper
working of bowels and bladder and to rid the body of all impurities
generated. Disinfect the whole premises thoroughly, remembering that
there is extreme danger in the dust itself, which often harbors infection.
Considerable success has followed vaccine treatment, and many state colleges
or experimental stations send out Black Leg vaccine direct to stockmen on
application. They offer to do this at a nominal charge for the actual cost
of preparing the vaccine. It can also be had from the U. S. Department of
Agriculture, Washington, D. C. Address Chief of the Bureau of Animal
Industry.

BLOAT OR This is an accumulation
HOVEN of gas in the first stom-

ach or paunch. The
cause is usually a sudden change of food,
especially an agreeable change, such as
from dry to green fodder. Too much
grain, or indigestion from any cause
may produce bloat. But the most corn-
man cause is grazing on wet grass, al-
falfa or clover, in warm weather, when
fermentation takes place quickly.

Symptoms Swelling of the left side,
over the paunch. Restless-
ness, anxiety; the animal stops feeding,
breathes hard with nostrils distended.
Relief must come quickly or the animal will die from rupture.

Treatment Act quickly. A
stream of cold water
thrown on the left flank will often
start muscular contraction, expell-
ing the gas naturally. Rubbing the
left side vigorously will sometimes
serve the same purpose. But if
the swelling is very great and gets
worse, the quickest and best way is to use the trocar and canula (a stylet
or dagger in a hollow tube sheath, see cut). Plunge this instrument into
the upper part of the swelling between the last rib and the
angle of the haunch, about a hand's breadth down from the

Trocar and canula

144 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOR

transverse lumbar process (see point marked with cross in the
cut) over the paunch or rumen. When you pull out the. trocar this leaves
the hollow canula in place, through which the gas can escape. Many
farmers use a long thin-bladed knife instead of the trocar, but unless the
cut is held open with a quill it will close as soon as some of the gas has
escaped and the skin relaxes. Remember, if you have no trocar and canula
handy, in an emergency you can use a knife for the trocar and the long
spout of the oil-can from the mower for the canula, of course, cleaning
and sterilizing both by dipping in a strong Nox-i-cide solution. For medi-
cal treatment, give a pound of Epsom salts, or 2 ounces of turpentine
in 1 pint of raw linseed oil, or 2 ounces hyposulphite of soda and 1 ounce
aromatic spirits of ammonia in 1 quart of water, any of which will prevent
further fermentation. Remember prompt action is what saves cattle when
bloated. After the acute symptoms have been relieved put the cattle on
regular Stock Tonic treatment.

BLOODY Usually caused by some accident or injury to the udder, bruis-
MILK ing, or chilling from resting on a cold floor. Sometimes the

cause is tuberculosis.

Symptoms Sometimes the milk is streaked with blood, sometimes it
shows a sediment of blood after standing.

Treatment If not tubercular (that is if the cow does not respond to the
tuberculin test), treat as follows: Milk carefully, then bathe the
udder in cold water and apply Conkey's Bag Remedy, rubbing it in gently.
Keep the cow for a while on feed in which Conkey's Stock Tonic has been
mixed according to directions. Have plenty of bedding in the stall so that
the udder will not be chilled or bruised when the cow is lying down, and see
that the cow next to her cannot step on the udder, as this is a frequent
cause of injury.

CASTRATING This operation is best performed between the second and
fourth weeks. Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant
in a 2 per cent, solution, 1 tablespoonful to 1 quart of water, should be used
to sterilize the knife, and also to wash the scrotum before cutting. After
the operation dust on Conkey's Healing Powder according to directions.
If in fly season protect the calf by spraying it with Conkey's Fly Knocker
or keep the calf in a dark stable until the wound has healed over. Care-
fully wash and sterilize the knife after each operation.

CATARRH — A common ailment, from change of weather or any
COLD, etc. depressing condition. Especially liable to happen after

calving.

Symptoms Usually starts with a chill, followed by fever and general
indications of cold — a rough, dry nose is followed by a watery
secretion, later turning into a thick mucous discharge. Almost always there
is some digestive disorder; the animal loses appetite and suffers with consti-
pation or looseness of the bowels. Eyes are swollen and inflamed and very
painful.

Treatment If possible separate from the rest of the herd and in any case
use extra care in disinfecting, using Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip
and Disinfectant according to directions. If constipated, clean out the system
with Epsom salts, dose 8 ounces to 1 pound. Put the cow on easily digested
feed, and use Conkey's Stock Tonic with each feed, to tone up the system

DISEASES OF CATTLE 145

and keep it open. Give internally three times a day 1 tablet of Conkey's
Fever Remedy as directed. Treat the eyes with Conkey's Eye Remedy. If
there is a discharge from the nose, or any difficulty with breathing, Pi-no
used as an inhalant from steaming hot water solution will relieve the
condition.

Prevention Disinfect thoroughly with Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant
to prevent the spread of the disorder.

CONSTIPATION With newborn calves this may be the result of failing

IN CALVES to dry off the cow before calving, so that the colostrum

(first secretion in the udder for the offspring) does not

have a chance to form. This colostrum is the laxative supplied by nature
to empty the bowels of the new-born. Where the calf is constipated we
recommend 2 to 4 tablespoonfuls of castor oil, with an injection up the
rectum, using 1 pint of warm water and 1 teaspoonful Nox-i-cide Dip and
Disinfectant stirred or shaken to an emulsion. If the calf is brought up by
hand, be sure the milk is not too rich or from a cow too far along in
lactation; or, where skim milk is used, do not add calf meal or other grain
too early, as the salivary and pancreatic ferments necessary for digesting
starch are not developed at first. Feed the milk at blood heat, never cold,
as cold milk is a very common cause of trouble.

COUGH Never neglect the symptoms of coughing. When the cough

is from tuberculosis no treatment is worth while since the

animal is unfit for breeding purposes and neither its flesh nor milk would

be fit for human food. When simply the result of a cold or sore throat, treat

as follows:

Treatment Spray or swab the throat with Pi-no, mixing with water,
according to directions on package. Rub the throat on the
outside, from ear to ear, with Conkey's Warming Liniment. This prepara-
tion is penetrating and will allay the pain and soon heal the soreness.
Treat twice a day, or if a very bad case treat oftener, since treatment
greatly relieves the animal's suffering. In this case, also Conkey's Pi-no
used in a bucket of steaming hot water, or in a nose bag, as an inhalant,
will relieve the condition. Where there are ulcers or sores in the mouth
always separate the animal. Cough (pneumonia) is often associated with
navel infection. There is no excuse for navel infection as it is entirely
preventable by simple precautions at birth, wetting the navel with 1-1000
solution of corrosive sublimate twice a day until the cord shrivels up and
drops off, leaving no raw spot, or Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant
can be used. Before the calf is allowed to suck, wash the cow's udder with
a solution of 1 teaspoonful Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant to 1 pint of
water, as otherwise the calf is liable to infection.

COWPOX This is an acute contagious disease, the first symptom of
which is slight fever, then tenderness and inflammation of the
teats. Small lumps like shot form under the skin, then soften into small
pustules, which break and yellow matter runs from them. This discharge
dries into scales or scabs. The teats are very sensitive and painful and the
cow suffers greatly when being milked. The disease is spread by the
milker's hands.

Treatment Separate the cow from the rest of the herd, as the discharge

is very contagious. Milk her last of all, so as to avoid danger

of infecting the others when milking. If possible, use a milking tube, steril-

146 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

izing the tube before using, and also afterwards in a solution of Conkey's
Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, 1 teaspoonful to 1 pint of water and wash
the hands of the milker in the same strength solution before and after
milking the cow affected. Twice a day wash the udder with this solution
and gently dry by patting it with cheesecloth or dabbing with cotton
batting. Apply Conkey's Bag Remedy to all large lumps or sores; or you
can use y2 ounce hyposulphite soda disolved in 1 pint of water. If the scabs
are very bad it may be necessary to soak them in a warm solution of Nox-
i-cide in order to remove them, and then apply Conkey's Pain Lotion.

Prevention Be sure to milk the affected cow last and wash the hands
thoroughly after milking. Disinfect the quarters thoroughly
with Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant as directed on package, and be sure
to pour a little Nox-i-cide solution on a cloth and wipe off the udders
and teats of all other cows before milking. This will save any chance
of the disease spreading to the rest of the herd.

DEHORNING Dehorning is not a dangerous operation if care is taken
to disinfect the wound, and remove all horn dust. A
common saw can be used but the regular dehorning instruments sold for
the purpose are easier both for the operator and cattle. Be sure to cut
close. Dust the wound with Conkey's Healing Powder and it will heal
over quickly.

Prevention Horns can be prevented from growing simply by touching
the horn spots of young calves with a stick of caustic potash,
during first week, before the horns have a chance to appear. Use tin foil to
protect the hands from the caustic pencil, and moisten the point of the pencil
in water before applying. Do not get the caustic too wet or it will run
down into the eyes. When not in use keep the caustic potash in a bottle,
well corked.

DEPRAVED Cattle sometimes lick and chew stumps, fence boards and
APPETITE even filth, and their coats show rough and staring. Usually
the cause is some fault of feeding and should be cor-
rected as follows:

Treatment Examine the ration and see if it gives sufficient variety. Be
sure that cows have access to salt. See page 46 on mixing
stock salt. If the fault is not with the feed the cows need tonic treatment
and should have Conkey's Stock Tonic mixed with the regular feed as per
directions on package.

EYES SORE Sore, inflamed eyes are best treated with Conkey's Eye
Remedy applied as directed. If inflammation is very bad,
treat frequently. This is very soothing and healing. Have barn well lighted,
but avoid light directly in the eyes of any animal.

FOOT ROT — Caused by exposure to filthy floors or litter. The symp-
FOUL FOOT toms are lameness, then swelling of the foot and leg
above the hoof, which comes to a head and breaks at
the top of the cleft of the hoof and discharges a fetid, cheesy pus. Some-
times there is proud-flesh and the horn or claw separates from the hoof.

DISEASES OF CATTLE 147

Treatment Wash the hoof clean in a solution of Conkey's Nox-i-cide
Dip and Disinfectant, 2 teaspoonfuls in a pint of water. Cut
away all loose horn, then apply a dressing of bran or flour mixed with the
Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, 1 tablespoonful to 5 of water makes a good
proportion for this dressing. Pack this well into the hoof and bandage
well, or put the foot in a poultice boot (see cut, page 17). Be sure to
keep the cattle on dry clean floors. During treatment keep the diet cool-
ing and laxative. It is best to use Cpnkey's Stock Tonic in the feed to
keep the system open.

GARGET — This may result from injury, overfeeding or infection

CAKED BAG through the teat opening, or directly from the blood
circulation. Prompt treatment is necessary since the
condition may become chronic, destroying the usefulness of the cow. (It
does not pay to fuss with chronic garget). The trouble is common with
cows just fresh,, the congested state of the udder making it sensitive to
cold or other injury when the cow is lying on a chilly, wet or hard floor.
The milk stagnates, coagulates, and decomposition sets in. Sometimes
pus or tumor-tissue forms, and often the milk-gland tissue in a part or a
whole of the udder is permanently injured

Treatment Separate the sick cow as there is danger of infection. First
relieve the feverish condition by a dose of salts (1 pound of
Epsom salts in 3 pints of water), about one ounce ginger added would be
beneficial. Give this dose once a week for three or four weeks as necessary.
Foment the udder three times a day with hot water, dry gently with soft
cloth or cotton and apply Conkey's Bag Relief, gently rubbing it in as the
friction is also beneficial. Strip the milk away as often as possible, if
necessary using a sterilized milking tube (see cut, page 155). Make the
cow comfortable with plenty of clean dry bedding. Lighten the grain feed,
and give Conkey's Stock Tonic in the feed as directed. See that the cow
is not exposed to wet or chilling weather. If there are other complications
so that the case does not immediately respond to above treatment, write
us full description and we will advise you further. Such consultation and
advice is free.

Prevention Disinfect the hands thoroughly in Nox-i-cide Dip and Disin-
fectant solution after handling a cow with garget, or your
hands may spread the infection. Look sharply to stable conditions and if
there has been an outbreak of garget in the herd go over the whole
premises carefully, cleaning and disinfecting with Nox-i-cide Dip and
Disinfectant as directed. If possible whitewash also. Keep the cows from
wading in any filth or stagnant water.

GLANDULAR When these appear on udder, neck, etc., they can be
SWELLING quickly treated with Conkey's Pain Lotion. This prepara-

tion is more than a soothing lotion; it is an emolient and
when applied externally is absorbed by the tissues and quickly heals them,
or you can use Conkey's Absorbent, painting the lump as directed on
package. If the animal is out of condition in any way, treat with Conkey's
Stock Tonic.

HEAT Failure to come in heat should be treated first by Conkey's Stock
Tonic, which is a special tonic for cows and builds up the health
quickly. Increase the natural vigor of the animal and all natural functions
follow. If the trouble is not due to low condition, and the animal still fails
to come in heat, mix sulphate of iron, 4 ounces, powdered cantharides, 2
drams, and make this quantity up into 24 even doses. Give one dose twice
a day in bran mash until effective.

148 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

INDIGESTION Loss of appetite, dull, unthriving condition should be
met promptly. Indigestion from any cause strikes at
the basis of health, and vigor, and profit in livestock.

Treatment If there is any fault with the feed correct it. The ration may
not be properly balanced or it may be disagreeing with the
cattle. Trouble may come from irregular feeding. Find out the cause
and correct it. Having corrected the ration, mix with it Conkey's Stock
Tonic as a tonic and conditioner. Begin with y2 tablespoonful three times a
day, gradually increasing the dose to 1 tablespoonful. This will tone up
the weakened digestive organs, enable the animals to fully digest the
nutrients in the feed and get all possible benefit from them. Cattle
under heavy feeding for milk or beef production need help for digestion
or functional disturbance is pretty sure to follow. A cow suffering from
indigestion is in just the right low condition to succumb to any other disease
that may come near her. Good digestion is necessary to keep up the body's
power of resistance. Under natural conditions no tonic is needed. Under
unnatural condition, i. e., heavy strain for production, assistance is absolutely
necessary. Even vigorous animals need occasional tonic treatment. Hence
the need for a conditioner. There has been much criticism of stock "foods,"
but no scientific man has ever assailed the principle back of Conkey's Stock
Tonic, which is not a food but a medicine. It is safe for general use because
it combines various vegetable tonics, and leaves no deposit in the system.
It includes also vermifuge properties, since internal parasites are a common
cause of indigestion and all farm animals need occasional vermifuge treat-
ment. Its effect on the system is slightly laxative, which is necessary for
animals under heavy feeding and light exercise. As a general tonic for
heavy milking cows it can't be beat.

Prevention Occasional treatment with Stock Tonic is advised for all
farm animals, as alterative, tonic treatment. As a general
preventive of disorders we advise the continuous use with all farm animals
of a mixture as follows: 90 pounds common barrel salt, 10 pounds Conkey's
Stock Tonic, mix thoroughly, keep dry and let animals help themselves to
it as there will then be no danger of overdosing. This should be before all
the animals all the time. It makes the best possible stock salt at a cost of
less than 2*4 cents per pound. It will keep them free from intestinal para-
sites, will increase appetite and exert a mild tonic effect.

LAMENESS If caused by inflammation between the claws of the hoof
treat with Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant as
directed for Foul-foot and Foot-rot. Often when foul foot affects a fore
foot it is mistaken for shoulder lameness on account of the swelling of the
leg. Where soreness is present in the shoulder apply Conkey's Pain Lotion
rubbing it in well and liberally. A soft hemp rope soaked in Nox-i-cide Dip
and Disinfectant solution will clean out and disinfect the cleft if drawn
back and forth between the claws of the hoof.

LEUCHORREA — The symptom is a white, mucous, vaginal discharge.
WHITES Usually it is best to isolate the cow. Treat as follows:

Treatment Flush out the vagina once a day with a gallon of luke-warm
water with 2^ tablespoonfuls Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant.
Treat daily for ten days, then if symptom continues treat every other day
until the discharge stops entirely. Give internally Conkey's Stock Tonic,
either mixing the dose with molasses and putting it on the back of the
tongue, or adding it to the regular feed as directed on packages. The

DISEASES OF CATTLE 149

condition described shows a functional weakness, and tonic treatment is
necessary to build up the bodily vigor.

LICE The lice that affect cattle are blood-suckers, with narrow heads
and long trunk-like sucking tubes. They leave the cattle when
turned on grass, but the nits remain in the stable so that thorough cleaning
and disinfecting of the premises is necessary to get rid of these pests.

Treatment Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, mixed with 60 to
75 parts water, should be sprayed or applied with a brush as
convenient. Begin at the head and work back over the animal, as the lice
will try to get out of the way of the mixture and especially try to hide
away in the ears. Go over the whole animal thoroughly and get at every
part with the Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant. It will certainly kill the
lice, but the nits will hatch in 10 days and the animal should then be
sprayed again. In cold weather the mixture should be made with warm
water so as to avoid chilling, and the animal should be dried in the sun-
shine or a blanket put over it until thoroughly dried off. Instead of
Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, Conkey's Lice Powder can be used, sifting
it over the body thoroughly and rubbing it in so as to get to every part.
With the powder there is no danger of chilling, but powder is more trouble-
some to apply over a large surface than Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant.
Treatment includes going over the barn or stable thoroughly, cleaning and
disinfecting, and if possible whitewashing it.

LUMPY JAW This is a tumor-like growth, usually on the jaw but
sometimes on the tongue (wooden-tongue), or it may
affect the lungs. It is due to bacterial infection from the ray fungus, which
exists naturally on spears of oats, awns of barley, thorns, etc. If the sensi-
tive membrane of the mouth is cut by a bit of sharp forage, or if there
is a scratch or sore of any sort in the mouth, or a bad tooth, the animal is
easily infected by this ray fungus (in fact, inoculated) and symptoms of
lump jaw may quickly follow. At first there is a lump on the jaw bone, or
just back of the angle of the jaw, and in the early stages, while the bunch
is soft and not attached to the bone itself, it is quite easy to cure. If
neglected the lump continues to grow and when broken discharges thick,
yellow matter. This discharge is contagious and if any of it drops on the
food or the pasture other cattle are likely to be affected. We know of
instances where three generations kept on the same pasture developed lump
jaw. It usually starts with young cattle and in the last half of the year,
when sharp grain and hay is fed and mouth-sores are more common.

Treatment As soon as the lump is discovered apply Conkey's Absorbent
as directed, first cutting away the hair. If the lump is small
this will absorb it. If the lump is large, this treatment will soften it so
that it can be opened and cleaned out, and the tumor ©r abscess then
packed with gauze or oakum saturated in Conkey's Absorbent. Or you can
dress these fistulous tracts with a lotion made by dissolving copper sulphate
(blue vitrol) 10 grains to one ounce of pure water. To hasten recovery
internal treatment can be given as follows, with due attention to the special
caution: Give potassium iodide, 2 to 3 drams daily, until the animal shows
signs of scurf, loses appetite, droops, etc. Then stop for a few days, then
commence again. Among veterinarians iodide of potash is considered a
specific for this disease. It is successful in 3 out of 4 cases, but if no im-
provement follows after four or five weeks the treatment should be given
up entirely. This drug should be used with full knowledge that it causes

150 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

emaciation, lessens the milk flow, and may cause abortion. The drug is
fairly expensive, but it is estimated that 1 pound iodide of potash in 1 quart
of water will be enough for a test of two month's treatment, giving y2 ounce
of this solution each night and morning. It can be put in the drinking water
or given as a drench if care is taken to prevent strangling.

Prevention Use Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant liberally to
kill all germs. Lump Jaw is very contagious. It will easily
spread to the whole herd, or infect the stable or pasture, thus endangering
animals that may occupy them later.

MANGE AND This is due usually to skin parasites, but itching may
ITCH come from nervous eczema. The irritated condition of

the skin and constant itching result in sore patches and loss of hair, and
expose the animal to insect pests.

Treatment Apply Conkey's Dip and Disinfectant, using 1 part to 60 or
75 of water. Rub well into the skin with a stiff brush or use
a sprayer. This will allay the intolerable itching immediately and will cure
the disease by killing the germs. If the trouble is nervous eczema, treat
the general condition, building up the body and cleaning the blood with
Conkey's Stock Tonic mixed with the regular feed as directed. Mangy
cattle always show unthrifty appearance, and a course of Conkey's Stock
Tonic to improve the condition should always be a part of the treatment.

MILK FEVER Usually the best cow in the herd is the one attacked,
for milk fever affects well-fed, heavy milkers, and

especially those that have already calved several times. Symptoms usually
start within two days after calving:

Symptoms Uneasiness, stamping the hind legs, muscles twitching, stag-
gering, then the hind legs drag and finally the cow goes down
in the characteristic attitude shown in the picture, with her head turned to
the side, and a peculiar arch of the neck. The animal seems to be in a
stupor and does not respond even
when the ball of the eye is touched.
The tongue seems paralyzed. The
movements of the digestive or-
gans apparently cease, and there is
no dung Dr urine. The pulse
ranges fr^m 60 degrees to 150; the
temperature may be below nor-
mal or as high as 105 F. When
the cow is not treated death usually
comes in a few days, and under the old treatment fully nine cases in every
ten were lost. The new treatment is considered one of the most brilliant
discoveries in modern veterinary knowledge for with it nine cases in every
ten are successful. Just why it cures scientists do not understand as yet.
But the following is the successful treatment:

Treatment Get a milking tube, a bulb and six feet of rubber tubing con-
nected with a filtering chamber filled with sterile cotton, or
use a tank of compressed oxygen. Strip the udder of milk, wash it thor-
oughly with a warm, antiseptic solution of Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant,
two teaspoonfuls to a pint of warm soft water, and also sterilize the milking

DISEASES OF CATTLE 151

tube and the hands of the operator in some of this same strength solution.
Treat each teat by inserting the sterile milking 'tube and slowly inflate
until the air bubbles out. The above regular appliances can be bought
for the purpose but in an emergency a satisfactory practical substitute
is a bicycle pump connected with what is known as a wash bottle, which
is nothing more than a tightly stoppered bottle, fitted with a long
and a short glass tube, containing a strong Nox-i-cide solution, say 1
ounce of Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant to 5 ounces of water, or about
2 tablespoonfuls to a glass of water. The air is sterilized by being pumped
through this solution, since it enters the wash-bottle by a tube running below
the surface of the antiseptic solution, and is forced through this wash before
it can escape by the short tube. When the quarter being treated is fully
distended, carefully withdraw the milking tube, pinching the teat to prevent
the gas or air from escaping, and tie the end of the teat with a strip of
Y-2. inch muslin or tape. These tapes should not be left on long enough to
destroy circulation but should come off in an hour or so. Keep the cow
upright, and not on her side; if necessary proo with bolsters of chaff or
straw. Do not rub the udder or attempt to milk it; leave it alone for
18 to 24 hours. In most cases the cow regains consciousness soon after the
operation, rises and commences eating. She should then be fed very care-
fully, light, easily digested food, with Conkey's Stock Tonic mixed with it
according to directions. For several days she should be milked very lightly,
or milk fever conditions may come back.

Prevention Do not let a cow that is due to calve get into over-fat con-
dition. Especially if it is her third calf, watch out. Have Con-
key's Stock Tonic on hand and during the last six weeks before calving
give the doses regularly as directed. This is the best possible treatment
for preventing the various troubles so common at calving. Conkey's Stock
Tonic keeps the organs active and the system open. It gives the cow
vigor and makes her calf more sturdy. During the last weeks keep all
grain out of the ration, but give bran every day. Let the cow exercise freely,
A little extra care just at this critical time will often save heavy losses later.

MILKING Bloody milk treat as suggested ^\ -^

TROUBLES under that head. Leaking milk \Aj

from the teat is simplest treated \r\ ^^
by putting on rubber bands 1 inch up from the f2\

end of the teat, tight enough to close the teat but \J/

rot too tight for circulation. These ban^s can -
easily be removed when milking. \j Q

Hard milking is usually corrected by teat ^-.v /\
dilators or plugs, but as a last resort get a veter-
inarian to slit the teat, using a bistuory, properly
sterilized for the operation.

Ropy or stringy milk is often traced to bac- Bacterium lacti viscosus,
teria from bad water. Sometimes it is caused by whlch cause stnn*y milk
indigestion, in which case physic the cow, change

the feed and give */2 ounce granular hyposulphite of soda in the feed or
drinking water, night and morning. Look after the water supply, as it may
cause infection. Disinfect the cow stable with Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip
and Disinfectant. Clean up, and if possible whitewash, and get more sun-
light into the stable. Keep the udder washed clean, using Conkey's Nox-i-
side Dip and Disinfectant in the wash water.

Shrinking of the milk flow is usually due to faulty feeding. Read care-
fully pages 35-40. To insure full value from feed, mix with it Conkey's Stock

152 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

Tonic according to directions. Increase the drinking water allowance and be
sure it is of comfortable temperature for drinking. Do not let your cows
fret, for any nervous, excited condition acts directly on the milk secretion.
Keep your cows contented and happy. Keep them warm in winter, provide
shade for them in summer, spray them with Conkey's Fly Knocker during
the fly pest season, and they will make full use of their feed in a profitable
milk-flow.

NAVEL ILL This is a common disease of calves, as also of colts. It
is due to germ infection of the navel cord and may occur
at birth or anytime before the navel is perfectly healed.

Symptoms Soreness and inflammation at the navel; swelling of the joints;
lameness, sometimes paralysis of the forelegs or hind legs;
the young animal is puny, fails to thrive, and usually indigestion and
scours follow.

Prevention Proper treatment is prevention, for this trouble is preventable
always. Before the cow calves, see that her stall is clean and
thoroughly disinfected, using Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant in
a solution of one part to fifty of water. Wet the navel for a week or ten
days with Nox-i-cide solution, two teaspoonfuls in a pint of soft water, or
1 to 1,000 solution of corrosive sublimate.

PARALYSIS This is sometimes very difficult to treat and a good veter-
OF THE inarian should be called as there may be complications.

BOWELS Obstinate constipation, acute indigestion, such as impaction

of the rumen, or worms are some common causes; but
there are many others. It may affect either calves or grown animals.

Symptoms The animal goes down and cannot get up, or can rise only
in part. Usually it is the hind part that is affected.

Treatment The first thing is to give a brisk physic, such as Ep-
som salts, and inject 1 oz. of glycerine up the rectum.
Then every four hours give warm flaxseed tea and thin oatmeal gruel
containing stimulants. Give this in large quantities, as much as the
animal will drink. For the stimulant, give 2 ounces of whiskey and
y?. teaspoonful of fluid extract of nux voniica. Increase the dose of nux
vomica each day until the animal gets up of its own accord or until the
muscles twitch involuntarily. Then go back to the original dose and con-
tinue as necessary. The urine should be drawn if the animal cannot pass it.

Prevention Paralysis due to digestive disorders can be prevented by the
use of Conkey's Stock Tonic occasionally, mixed with the
regular feed, according to directions. This treatment tones all the organs
and keeps the system open. Conkey's Stock Tonic is especially advised for
all dairy animals. It wards off many troubles to which heavy milkers are
liable.

RINGWORM This is a skin disease due to a parasite which works in
the hair follicles, causing bald spots. It is especially com-
mon in winter and spring. It usually attacks the face but may appear on
any part of the body, as round bare patches covered with white or grayish
scales and ringed around the edge with bristly, diseased hairs, which in turn
fall out, so that the rings or spots are sometimes 2 or 3 inches in diameter.
This trouble is contagious.

DISEASES OF CATTLE 153

Treatment Scrub the affected parts well with Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip
and Disinfectant solution, two teaspoonfuls in a pint of water;
then apply an ointment made by mixing 1 part Conkey's Absorbent with
two parts lard. Put this on every two days until all scabs are gone. It is
better to shave the hairs from the edge of the spot or pull them out with
pincers, then apply the ointment. Clean up the quarters and disinfect
thoroughly with Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant to prevent the
spread of the disease.

Prevention Extra care in cleaning, disinfecting, etc., will entirely prevent
any trouble with ring worm. The use of Conkey's Nox-i-cide
Dip and Disinfectant in the cleaning water when animals are groomed will
prevent any development of such skin disorders as ring worm, mange, itch,
etc.

SCOURS This is a frequent trouble with calves, but it also affects
grown cattle. With calves the trouble may be inherited, or
from navel infection or, what is most common, some fault of feeding. With
grown cattle the trouble is usually due to some simple error in feeding, such
as giving too much salt after depriving them of it for a long time, or it may
also come from any irritant in the bowels. Calf scours is a common ail-
ment of calves brought up by hand and usually starts sometime in the first
month. The scouring is a symptom rather than the disease itself, the real
trouble being the irritated condition of the intestines from bad digestion.
The diarrhea is thin and watery, and may be white, greenish or mixed
with bloody mucous.

Treatment At the first sign give a dose of castor oil, 1 to 2 ounces in
milk, dose according to the age of the calf. This is always
the first step in checking the trouble. Then 3 times a day give one tea-
spoonful subnitrate of bismuth. Examine the feed, for the trouble is there.
If skim milk is fed add 1 ounce of lime water to every pint of milk. Be
sure that all milk fed the calves is at blood heat temperature, for cold
milk is often the cause of scouring. If the calves are fed whole milk, be
sure it is not too rich, and not from a cow too far along in lactation. Feed
often and only a moderate amount at a time. Be very sure that all utensils
are thoroughly clean. A little Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant in the wash
water will disinfect them thoroughly. Do not add grain or calf meal of
any sort too soon, as the digestive juices are not ready for grain in the first
few weeks. When grain is added, avoid using screened oats, as the hulls
are irritating. A little blood meal fed with corn meal, makes a good
substitute. Soon as the bowel movements check give the calves J4 table-
spoonful Conkey's Stock Tonic as directed and continue treatment for about
two weeks or until the animal gets a good start.

White scours, appearing the first or second day after birth, with great
weakness and dulness of the calf, is a contagious disease and usually is
quickly fatal. It is due to navel infection and the treatment is therefore
preventive as follows: Let the cow calve in a separate clean stable, or
disinfect the quarters very thoroughly with Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and
Disinfectant, % pint to each gallon of water. Some of the same strength
solution should be used to wash off the hind quarters of the cow and at
birth the cord should be tied with sterile string or tape (sterilize by soaking
in a cup of water with 1 teaspoonful of Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant)
and for a week or ten days, until it heals, the stump should be wet each
day with this Nox-i-cide solution.

154 CQNlKEY'S STOCK BOOK

SLOBBERING First examine the teeth and tongue. A split, sharp or
diseased tooth may cause the irritation. Or the tongue

may show enlargement and irritation, the so-called "wooden-tongue;" it
may show the skin stripped off in places. If the teeth are diseased, give
them attention. If the tongue is affected, treat the places with tincture
of iodine once daily, after first cauterizing with lunar caustic. Then give
one dram iodid of potash twice a day, noting the caution given under
treatment for Lump Jaw. If neither teeth nor tongue are at fault, treat
for stomach derangement, and give Conkey's Stock Tonic in the feed
according to directions.

SORE For this symptom, swab the mouth with Conkey's Nox-i-cide

MOUTH Dip and Disinfectant solution, y2 teaspoonful to a cup of water.
If the tongue shows symptoms of "wooden tongue" (a rounded,
hard swelling) due to actinomycosis, that is infection from ray fungus, (see
Lump Jaw), treat as described above, using tincture of iodine, and night
and morning a dram of iodid of potash in the drinking water for ten days.
Note the cautions as to the use of iodid of potash, page 149 under Lump
Jaw.

SORES Treat all such places with Co'nkey's Healing Powder. If there
are lumps or bunches filled with pus, first open and let this
matter out, then swab with Nox-i-cide solution, 1 teaspoonful of Conkey's
Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant to a cup of water. Treat once a day until
thoroughly healed. Never neglect sores as they are liable to infection with
disease germs or maggots and frequently cause very serious trouble.

STERILITY In a very large proportion of cases this trouble can be
successfully treated in cows as follows: First, before breed-
ing, make sure that the animal is in good muscular condition, not too fat,
but not too lean; that is, see that the cow has proper vitality. To insure
this vitality we advise systematic treatment with Conkey's Stock Tonic,
mixing it with the regular feed as directed. It will make the animal thrifty,
if the trouble has been faulty digestion, as it will insure digestion, and it will
produce a healthy appetite if the animal has been off feed or run down in
any way. In short, first make sure that the animal is in good breeding con-
dition. If she still fails to breed then use the simple yeast or soda treat-
ment, to correct unnatural acidity of the womb. This treatment is very
successful as follows: Two or three times a week flush out the vagina with
a gallon of luke-warm water, containing Y-2. oz. sodium bicarbonate (or use
the yeast treatment described on page 116. An hour before service have
a veterinarian or other competent operator open the neck of the womb and
again inject the soda solution. If the cow fails to conceive, repeat above
treatment.

SWELLING Reduce ordinary swellings with Conkey's Absorbent, rub-
bing it in freely. Or, Conkey's Warming Liniment could be
used to advantage, but if a stubborn case, use Conkey's Absorbent. Soft
dropsical swellings sometimes appear on different parts of the body and are
a symptom, sometimes of tuberculosis, sometimes of general debility and
run-down condition. If the trouble is not tuberculosis, but due to bloodless-
ness and general poor condition, put the animal on generous nutritious feed
and mix with the feed Conkey's Stock Tonic according to directions. This
treatment will build up the animal from the inside out, which is far more
scientific than trying to treat from the outside in.

DISEASES OF CATTLE 155

TEATS Closed or obstructed teats usually need the attention of a vet-
erinarian or other attendant competent to slit the teat in four
different directions, using a regular instrument for the purpose, the teat
bistuory (see cut) sterilized in
Nox-i-cide solution, 1 teaspoonful
Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Dis-
infectant to a cup of water. Per-
form this operation of cutting
while the cow is in milk, then to
keep the opening from closing
strip away a little of the milk fre-

quently< 1. Teat bistoury 2. Milking tube

Deranged teats sometimes

need only the use of a sterilized milking tube (see cut) to draw off the milk,
the derangement disappearing in time. In such cases, or where the teat
seems to be shrinking, use Conkey's Bag Relief, rubbing it into the affected
quarter. In some cases special dosing with one dram of iodid of potash two
times a day, in bran mash, will correct the condition in from two to four
weeks, but if not, there is no use to continue the treatment.

Leaking or punctured teats can be closed by painting the leak with
successive coats of flexible collodion. Or the edges of the hole are cut or
scarified, then drawn together like the edges of an ordinary wound and
stitched, when of course, they heal over.

Sores on the end of the teat can be cured by dusting on Conkey's
Healing Powder. This is a bad place to heal a sore so use the powder
persistently. Some times such places are treated by burning with nitrate
of silver, two or three times a week.

TUBERCULOSIS General unthriftiness, with or without cough, may indi-
cate tuberculosis. All such animals should be

tested. A "test" sometimes goes wrong — we all know that — but short of
cutting the suspected animal open, testing is the only means we have for
determining this condition. In testing for tuberculosis, be sure that the
cow is otherwise in normal condition, or the test will mean nothing. If a
second test is made, do not attempt it too soon after the first, for the
animal will fail to re-act, even though tubercular. Treatment for tubercu-
losis is not practical, as no product of the animal affected would be safe
for human food.

Prevention Prevention is entirely possible. The presence or the fear

of tuberculosis — and the fear of it is always with the
cattle owner — calls for good sanitary precautions — plenty of fresh air in
the stables, regular removal of all filth or dust accumulations, and thorough
disinfecting with Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, the combi-
nation general purpose article. Tuberculosis is one of the numerous dis-
eases which are easily preventable but well nigh incurable if once they
get a headway. Cows are especially liable to tuberculosis on account of
the functional strain on them for heavy milk production. It is the heavy
milkers that seem most liable, and it is noticed that those with narrow
chests, long legs, long neck, and ears and horns set close together seem
to be the easiest victims. As indicated above, close, badly-aired stables
greatly increase the danger.

156 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

WARBLES These are bots or tumors, that is small lumps under the
skin, usually along the back. They are caused by the larvae
or grub of the bot-fly, which in summer season stings the animal on the
back and deposits an egg at each sting. By early spring, these grub have
developed into sizeable worms. Each lump or tumor has a hole in its
center, through which the bot or warble may be seen.

Treatment As soon as you find these lumps or tumors, press the grub out
with the fingers, then apply a salve made up of three parts
lard and one part Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant. If more
convenient, spraying with Nox-i-cide solution, one part to 100 of water will
prove effective. Be sure to press out the grub, for if killed but left in the
tumor they are liable to fester, and in any case destroy the value of the
hide.

Prevention Spray cattle in fly time with Conkey's Fly Knocker. This
will keep the bot or gad fly from alighting on the animals.

Caution Some salves, anti-parasite mixtures, etc., advertised for this
purpose are in the nature of mercurial ointments, or contain
other poisonous matter. While effective for killing the grubs, they are
very dangerous, as the cows are liable to lick each other's backs. We
guarantee Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant and Conkey's Fly
Knocker not to injure the animal in any way and that the above treatment
will rid the hide of these destructive pests.

WARTS These may appear on any part of the body, and where they can
be clipped, that is the simplest treatment, but touch each spot
with nitrate of silver and then applying Conkey's Healing Salve until
thoroughly healed or mix up an ointment from common lard, 3 parts and 1
part Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant. Where the wart has a neck, a good
plan is to strangle the wart by tying a thread or cord around it as close
as possible to the base. When the wart sloughs off apply a little solution
of chloride of antimony, every third day until the sore part is a little lower
than the skin. Heal with Conkey's Healing Powder as directed. Warts
on the teat can usually be treated very simply by rubbing with castor oil
once or twice a day. Olive oil is also good. If necessary to clip warts on
the udder, treat only a few at a time to avoid too much irritation and inflam-
mation.

SHEEP RAISING

157

SHEEP

^"T>HE United States will soon be the greatest wool producing country

in the world.

-^- She already grows more than 300,000,000 pounds a year, fleece and

pulled; and imports about as much again for her own use.

300,000,000 pounds! And yet not enough. Twenty years ago we
thought 70,000,000 pounds something to brag of.

She exports a little, but lets other countries supply the great world
market. Why does she do it?

WHO WEARS Did you ever stop to think that after all, of all the people
CLOTHES? in this world, only one-third are fully clothed? And of

that one-third which we speak of as civilized and fully
clothed, there are varying classes, but chiefly two classes: one class which
has all it needs, and another class, which we. called the "other half," which
doesn't have all it needs. Have you all 'you need, say in the matter of
clothes? Could you use more wool at present? Do you think the sheep
industry can keep up with the world's needed supply?

WHAT Wool, wool, wool! We must have it — more of it — and more

WE NEED grades and varieties of it. Bigger flocks! Better care of
sheep and fleece! More intelligent breeding! Who knows
but we may develop before long with this easily modeled animal entirely
new breeds for new and special purposes?

THE WORLD'S Why look to Europe and Australia for the world's big
MARKET wool supply? Why look to England for the lustrous

Leicester wool our manufacturers of dress goods are
needing? Why pay high prices to France for French Merino? Why let
the old world, with the highest priced land in existence, give us object
lessons in profitable sheep raising?

158 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

MADE IN We have in America today — made in America — the best sheep
AMERICA of its kind in all the world — the American Merino.

A LITTLE The sheep in America has back of it as long a history as the
HISTORY United States themselves; and back of that, 2000 years back,
if you will go that far, the painstaking care of kings, and
breeders wiser than kings. In fact, you can't go back so far in history
that you do not find man there with his sheep. They are the oldest of
domestic animals. Even primitive man found them useful. Among all
races we find them as an early standard of wealth. The sheep is the
"animal with the golden hoofs," the giver of the "golden fleece." It was
man's most precious early possession, and the highest thing he could offer
in sacrificial worship.

Sheep were the first civilizers, by their very timidity helping to quell
the brute in savage human nature — requiring to be led, not driven — loving
the gentle shepherd and depending upon him wholly.

This timid animal proved hardy by nature, however, and adapted itself
to suit man's changing conditions. In the absence of shelter it grew wool
for protection, which man could shear in mild season. If given little for
feed it fed itself, "rustling" on free range. If given plenty it turned that
plenty into juicy flesh to satisfy man's lusty hunger. Preferring a tem-
perate climate, it suited itself to the shepherd's nomadic nature and adapted
itself to every climate and every livable altitude. With the coming of
empires and civilized markets the shepherd's sheep kept pace, adapting
themselves to fill his various needs and luxuries.

MUTTON Today then we have two great tendencies of sheep, two

OR WOOL? great classes: the (1) mutton, and the (2) wool varieties.

Moreover, every mutton breed produces also some

valuable wool, and every wool breed some mutton. While tending, for
special excellence, one way or the other, the sheep is a practical sort of
creature and always results in a "dual-purpose."

BREEDING Now the world has need of many and various kinds of
CAN DO IT wool. Sheep respond to every effort of the breeder and
today there is wool of a kind to suit every different demand
for manufacture. There are long-wooled breeds, there are medium-wooled
breeds and fine-wooled breeds, with every imaginable cross and mixture.
If manufacturers want any different kind, let them say so any day and in
a very few sheep generations the breeders will "deliver the goods" accord-
ing to order.

So much for science and so much for the plastic nature of the sheep
in breeding.

LONG-WOOLED Leicesters, Lincolns and Cotswolds are the chief of
BREEDS the long-wooled breeds.

LEICESTERS The long-wooled breeds are the most varied, and have the
greatest average value. They are usually hornless, white-
faced animals, somewhat coarse in flesh and sluggish in movement. They
are mostly of English origin, where the breeder Bakewell did much good
work to develop them in the last half of the 18th century. Of the long-
wooled breeds the Leicesters were the first to show results from intelligent
breeding. They are still largely used for grading up flocks. Leicesters

SHEEP RAISING

159

are hornless and have curly lustrous wool 7 inches to 8 inches long. Their
bodies are small, well shaped, thick and deep, soon grown and easy to
fatten for market.

LINCOLNS From these the Lincolns are distinguished by greater size
and weight, with wool even longer. Sometimes strands
measure all of 21 inches. Lincolns are much used in this country, in the
northwest especially, for crossing. They are just about the longest legged,
longest carcassed and longest wooled sheep known. These exaggerated
characteristics make them so useful in crossing.

Leicester, Cotswold, Lincoln— The chief Long Wool Breeds

COTSWOLDS Cotswolds have good fleece, but not so long and not so
heavy as the Lincoln pelt. The flowing forelock is a
prominent mark of the breed. Cotswolds have wonderful hardihood.

MEDIUM-WOOLED The various Downs are the medium-wooled breeds,
BREEDS also Shropshire, Dorset horned, etc.

\—s

Medium Wool— Oxford

Fine Wool— Merino

Medium Wool— Southdown

SHROPSHIRE- Medium-wooled breeds are for the most part hornless

DORSET-DOWN and dark faced, though the Dorset Horned sheep are

of the medium-wool class. Southdown and Shropshire

are good examples of medium-wool breeds. The Southdown was developed
by selection until a fine short-wooled type was developed, with close-
grained tender flesh, making the type good for mutton. The only thing
against them is that they are small. Shropshires are larger and heavier;
but in fleece are medium fine and fairly long. Shropshires are bald like
the Suffolk, but are wool capped and have fetlocks. Size and fleece
they get from the Lincolns and Cotswold cross in their blood with South-
downs. They are our chief mutton breed.

160 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

FINE WOOLED BREEDS Last, but in any classification from the wool-
— MERINOS growing standpoint, first of all, come the

fine-wooled varieties, practically all of them
some shape or form of Merino.

MERINO HISTORY All of these have been developed from the old
• Spanish Merino, a breed long held in monopoly

by the wily kings and clergy of Spain in days of Spanish glory. It was
by this breed that Spain for so long controlled the fine wool trade of the
world. In fact none were permitted to leave the kingdom until 1765, when
300 were sent to Saxony, founding there the Saxon Merinos. The Eng-
lish climate was a little hard on Merino wool; so that the Merino there
deteriorated. But from England they were taken to Australia and New
Zealand, with what increase and development the whole world knows.
Is it too much to say that it was to these sheep Great Britain owed in
large part the wonderful development of her penal colony into her greatest
colonial empire? Australia today produces in wool 756,690,163 Ibs., the.
mother country less than 134,000,000.

' No wonder the Merino "pulls the wool over our eyes:" although as
mutton the Merino is distinctly inferior. Meanwhile, the Spanish Merinos
sent to France and carefully bred there on different lines, have produced

Fine Type of Rambouillet Ram

our present day Rambouillet or French Merino, regarded now as a distinct
breed and certainly excellent for mutton as well as for its fine grade of
wool.

MUTTON TYPE In mutton breeds we look for depth, length and regu-
larity of form, with shoulders and hips well molded,

fleece even. Of all mutton types the Lincoln is largest and heaviest.
That is why Lincolns are so valuable for grading a flock up for mutton.
This breed is the earliest maturing of any, and yields a 9 to 11 Ib. fleece, —
? good investment for the intensive farmer. Dorsets, which with Cheviots

SHEEP RAISING 161

and Suffolks are included among the medium wool varieties, are remark-
able for fertility, and breed any time of year. This makes the Dorset
excellent for raising winter lambs in time for market just after the holiday
poultry season. This is a profitable industry always. The winter season
is hard on breeding ewes and the lambs; but against that is the "better
risk" to the breeder, in that there is no danger from stomach worms
which make a gamble of profit in summer flocks, unless the stockman is
exceedingly careful in providing new pastures.

WOOL TYPE The wool sheep, that is the Merino varieties, are the
lightest of all the improved breeds; also slow to fatten,
and slow to mature. On the other hand they are good grazers, will "rustle"
for themselves when necessary, and adapt themselves to any climate. But
the French Merino, the Rambouillet, as stated above, has been differently
bred and so matures much earlier. It certainly is a good breed both for
wool and for mutton.

THE AMERICAN As early as 1565 Spanish sheep were introduced to this

INDUSTRY country when Menendez the Spanish explorer founded

the town of St. Augustine in Florida, the oldest city

in the United States. All through Colonial times we find some attention
given the sheep industry. Sheep were imported into Jamestown in 1609,

A Fine Type of American Merino

when the settlement was only two years old; but on account of wolves and
other causes the flocks did not thrive and there were not more than three
thousand all told a half century later. The Dutch, in New York colony,
made importations as early as 1625. William Penn introduced them in his
colony of Pennsylvania along in 1683; and Pennsylvania early encouraged
the industry by fairs. The Swedes, in New Jersey, brought sheep with
them; and as early as 1700 their flocks were plentifully sprinkled through
that colony.

But .worse than wolves, worse than the hardships of Colonial settle-
ments in winter, were the jealous taxes levied so unjustly by the Mother

162 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

Country, England. The colonists were first of all aiming to get mutton
from their sheep. They could not get any pure stock at first, and only
mixed varieties were brought in; but these gave a very satisfactory quality
of meat, and along with it a very fair wool production. Soon the colonists
were anxious to weave their own shearings. But the anger of the Mother
Country crashed down upon them at this display of rivalry with the looms
of old England. England wanted a monopoly of all the trade from her
colonies; and, like a blood-sucking parasite, she fastened on wool manu-
facturing. Hard laws were passed, unjust restrictions. It was no wonder
that the spirit of rebellion found so many united for it. In 1776 the colon-
ists with one heart and purpose pushed forward to success against all
obstacles the American Revolution.

THE START Meanwhile on the western slope, undisturbed by his-

IN CALIFORNIA tory-making east of the Alleghanies, the Spanish

priests quietly established their long chain of missions

or church settlements for the making of "good" Indians out of "bad"
Indians; set out their vineyards and spread their countless flocks over the
ranges. The first Spanish sheep were introduced in 1773 and soon seventeen
establishments were in operation for sheep husbandry — all the property of
the missions — extending in a line from San Diego as far north as San Fran-

Telling a "good mouth"—! to 4 years

cisco, with a total of no less than 1,003,970 sheep. In addition to this we
can estimate that fully as many sheep were owned by individual "rancheros,"
chiefly Spanish grandees who had cast their lot with the new country. This
is a part of history we hear little of in the school books. But quietly,
steadily, the Pacific settlements were making progress, with the "good"
Indians to help them and only the "bad" Indians (i. e., unconverted by
missions) to oppose their mastery of that country's rich resources.

NOT "ALL WOOL" Humphreys, United States Minister to Spain, in
1802 brought home from that country 200 Spanish

Merinos. These and other importations immediately following were all
of the finest Spanish flocks. Before long 3,850 head of Spanish Merinos
could be counted among the enterprising New England and New York
breeders; and the famous Spanish Merino was successfully transplanted to
our Eastern states. Up to 1870 Merinos made up four-fifths of the sheep
raised in this country. A tendency to mutton development has set in, how-
ever, for with growing cities more and more mutton is needed. Thus
today we find that East of the Mississippi the coarse wool, or medium wool,
mutton breeds come up to the market requirements. The profitable plan
in the Eastern section is to market wethers at an early age and to fatten
the old ewes for mutton just as soon as they have passed their first useful-
ness for breeding. With the East growing mainly for mutton and for
home consumption, there is practically no competition with the Western
rangers, who look for wool rather than finest quality of mutton. In the
southwest Merinos still hold their own because of their "rustling" ability

SHEEP RAISING

163

But in the northwest the rangers practice crossing continually, in order
to maintain a general purpose medium fine wool sheep, shearing 7 to 8 Ibs.,
and still with good mutton qualities. In breeding back and forth as is
necessary, they alternate Lincolns and Cotswold rams with Merinos.
Lincolns and Cotswold breeds are large of body, somewhat coarse in
wool; but they keep the stock from getting too fine for mutton purposes.
Care must be exercised, however, to see that the wool does not get too
coarse for best market production. The western ranchers never sacrifice
good wool for mutton.

Today wool is firm, close to 30c per Ib. in the middle west. The tariff
protection (1910) is lie and 12c. Our last yearly statistics showed 328,110,-
749 Ibs. output, with demand much larger. The market for mutton and
lamb increases all the time, and is bound to keep growing so long as we
have growing cities.

MINUS Sheep raising in the United States flourishes mainly in

THE CORNBELT the middle and far west, leaving out the cornbelt. The

1900 census showed 62,000,000 head with 55% of these

on western ranges. Montana leads with 6,000,000; Wyoming, New Mexico,

Shropshire Ram and Ewe

Ohio, Utah, Idaho, Oregon, California, rank in the order named. Roughly
the order of growth may be judged from the Union Stock Yards receipts
at Chicago for different years as follows:

1885 1,000,000

1890 2,000,000

1900 3,500,000

1902 4,500 000 (Value $19,000,000)

A conservative estimate for present production would be 18,500,000
head annually, with a carcass value of, on the average, $4.25.

FARM OR RANGE This is the sheep situation. When it comes down to

the individual problem of management a man must

consider whether his sheep are to be put on farms or left to range as in

164 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

our great western sections. But even in the west conditions are changing
and the great herds of 60,000 and up are rapidly giving way before general
farming. Sheep thrive on scant herbage, and do well in cutdocr conditions.
Such countries as South America, especially Argentine, Australia, New
Zealand and our own Western America are well adapted to sheep raising.
It is still common in the west tc meet enormous flocks cf "rustlers." One
herder with dcgs will often have in charge 1,800 to 3,COO sheep. In this way
expenses are small, while probable profits are enormous. But the game is
a gamble in one sense: devastation can easily overtake such a flock from
pestilence, drought or storm. State laws are growing in force so there is
less danger of the first sort. Proper dipping will guard the flock from para-
sites or disease. But drought and storm are beyond any ranchman's control.
He simply takes his chances. Sometimes when the summer has been dry
and the stockman knows it will be hard to find all-winter range he can still
ship east and have his flock fattened for market. These are the "feeders" W2
find so often in the cornbelt; but they are transient, and don't show up in
the. census, although they are there and the cornbelt growers of fattening
grain are "there" with resulting profits.

ON THE FARM The whole problem is a different one for the sheep man
on the established farm. If you want to see some really

tremendous profits just give these professional "rustlers," i. e., sheep, half
a show on fertile farms as our British and European cousins have been
doing. In fact you have no business with a good fertile farm unless you
see the business advantage in adding a flock of sheep to make those acres
more productive.

ALWAYS The sheep industry is not like some other live-stock

TWO PROFITS industries. With sheep you just naturally can't get

away from some sort of "dual-purpose." You can't

grow wool without some mutton; and you can't grow good mutton without
a pretty good growth of fleece. The fleece shows the good natural well-
nourished condition of the animal. Of course this excess of condition will
tend to show more as wool or mutton according to the breed's character-
istics. But the general truth is clear.

SHEEP The sheep industry calls for a trifling outlay if you

GOOD SECURITY begin en a small scale. Profts are pretty certain.

Banks in the northwest have always looked upon

sheep raising as good security. Many a western sheep fortune has come
from a flock bought at the start with borrowed money. Sheep are hardy
by nature; good at roughing it; breed easily so there is quick increase.
Their wants are few, easy to understand; their ailments largely preventable,
because mostly of a parasitic nature.

AGAIN, WHY? Ohio and Michigan are famed for their sheep. But it's
mostly far east or far west you find them, with very few
in the thriving cornbelt, except as transient feeders. Why's that? You
won't find the answer anywhere in this book; but old sheepmen shut their
eyes and say it's a good business to grow into, rather than to go into, feet
first. But their pockets jingle while they speak. So you better think it over.

SCAVENGERS? YEP! While its true that sheep are "rustlers" and can
AND THEN SOME make a living where even a colt would starve,

they are good for something more than clearing

weeds and brush-land. Make a start with a few sheep, learning as you gr.
Or if you now have a few, chiefly as scavengers, on your farm, go to it this

SHEEP RAISING _ 165

year and see if there isn't room for at least 100% more. You'll get fleece,
lambs and mutton for your trouble.

COST TO FEED One man in the central west got 49 ewes to start

50 sheep $100 with» ancl * good ram, making a flock of 50. From

60 lambs 52 these he raised 60 lambs, which is a low estimate.

These 60 lambs he sold at $6.00 per head, netting

Total $152 f°r lambs $360. From his 50 sheep he sheared 400

Profit in wool Ibs. °f wool, which is a fair estimate. This he sold

400 Ibs. at23c.$ 92 at tne then market price of 23c, netting for wool

60 lambs $6 360 $92.00. It cost him for grain and pasture for the

, flock of 50 sheep $100, grain for the lambs $52.

Xotal $452 His total expense (not counting labor) was $152.

Less feed 152 He sti11 nad nis flock of sheep, and in the bank an
extra $300.

Profit $300 (Actual figures "E. K." in Indiana Farmer.)

HOME GROWN FEED— Here's another man with a 320 acre farm, rais-
"Side Issue" Profit $677 ing grain, with sheep just as a "side issue."

From 80 ewes he clipped wool to the tune of

$120. From 80 ewes he raised 80 lambs, which he fattened for market on
screenings, weight 90 Ibs. at 6c per lb., the 80 lambs bringing $432. This
careful farmer found also evenly distributed over his farm the most valu-
able of all live-stock manure, which he estimated at 25 tons and $5 a ton,
making an increase to his land of $125 value. Friend E. K. didn't give his
flock any credit for distributing fertilizer; but we know he got the benefit
on his land. There can't be any real farming without this valuable return
to the soil; and scientists all give credit to sheep for giving back 80% of
what they get out of it in grazing.

HOW TO START For the average farmer 10 or a dozen ewes will be best
to start with, purchased from good healthy nearby

stock. Then he can increase from year to year until his flock is of the
size that he can best handle. Let him combine with some neighbor to
market his wool and lambs — until such time as he has 50 or 60 ewes. The
wool and lambs from this size flock can always be marketed to advantage.
To end with success start out with vigorous lambs. Select good strong
mothers for the breeding flock, — good milkers and such as have a dense
fleece that will give the breeding animal plenty of protection. It is well
not to keep a breeding ewe after she is too old to make thrifty gains in
return for feed and care. In selecting ewes, pick out those that run
quickly and show physical exuberance. It's good to see a young ewe that
gives an occasional leap up into the air just because she feels like it. Don't
sell her. She'll bring vigorous offspring. Never sell anyone your best —
the best is only good enough for you. Sell your poorest. Look over the
flock and cull the ewes showing poor teeth or marks of poor breeding, or
those you know are not good milkers at lambing. Remember this is
where it's true that most of the labor in caring for sheep is head \vork, not
with hands.

GOING UP! When you've started right keep on going. Stick to the
breed you selected. You can grade up, up. It doesn't take
long to breed a flock to a high standard — mostly headwork again, not
physical labor,

166 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

BREED OUT Start with vigorous stock. Then use only the best of
THE FAULTS rams. Put as much value as you can into the ram, — not
always a highly fitted prize winner, pampered and per-
haps weakened in vigor in order to make a good outside show. But don't
stop until you can get what you consider the best ram in your parts for
breeding purposes. Every sheep has a fault. But when your whole flock
shows up some uniform fault select the ram you need and correct it.

Read page 6 again. Breeding is not an "exact science," but there is a
fair degree of mathematical certainty in it. So, breed in good qualities, and
breed out the faults that cheapen your flock.

RAM AND EWES Good breeders estimate from 30 to 50 ewes to each
ram, depending on individual quality and also condi-
tion. No matter how high the ram's individual quality he must also be
in perfect physical condition, well fed and vigorous. A tonic and appetizer
in the feed, like Conkey's Stock Vigor, is ideal for putting and keeping
the animal in just the right fettle.

HOW TO TELL He must have a bold carriage, and in his face a strong,

A GOOD RAM "sirey" look. Muzzle and nose will be broad, showing

a good breather and feeder. A short powerful neck

with deep, roomy chest; back broad, strong looking; broad and deep
loins, supporting plenty of best cut of meat; strong legs, not stilty. You
don't want to see the landscape under your sheep, that space might just
as well be mutton.

GOOD LAMBS Strong lambs come from care of the winter flock. Good
winter shelter, not too warm but dry and out of the
wind, with plenty of bedding and plenty of ventilation, — this sums up the
first big factor in the sheepman's success. The second is proper attention
to the ewes when lambing.

LAMBING As with all farm animals the flock master will watch the
breeding animals; have a record of each (ewes require 150
days gestation) and when time for delivering their young, will separate
each animal and keep on the alert to give any necessary attention. Loss
of lambs has been estimated to be due mainly to cold (40%) and lack of
milk (30%). Provide good shelter for the ewes at lambing. And in select-
ing breeding ewes look for good mothers, — not the short pudgy type but
rather rangy, good feeders, good milkers, and fitted out with a dense
fleece, as this will insure the breeding animals protection. For a month
before, feed the ewes rich protein food, see section on Feeds and Feeding,
especially pages 50 and 51. Make them take plenty of exercise. Clover hay
and corn silage make good roughage. For concentrated food, oats, corn
and bran are better mixed than when fed alone. If you must feed only one,
oats are best. Corn tends to fat, makes weak lambs, and little milk.

SAVING LAMBS If a lamb is chilled it can be saved by plunging in
warm water, wiping dry with a rough towel and put-
ting in a nice warm place, then giving it warm milk. For the June market

SHEEP RAISING 167

lambs are best dropped about the middle of February to March 1st, when
the backbone of winter is broken. There is less danger of loss of lambs
in mild weather but of course big profits come from winter or "hot-house"
lambs, — worth as high as $15.00 in January, but in May worth about $3.00.
Dorsets are the star winter lamb performers; for they are the most fertile
breed that we know, produce many twins and will breed almost any time
of the year; so that the flock owner c?n meet any market. Have you studied
the English system of "flushing" before breeding? See page 51.

STARTING LAMBS Lambs must get a good start with their dams if
ever they are to show big profit. Lack of milk is

one cause of great loss of lambs. No after feeding will make up if they fail
to thrive at the start. Lambs orphaned or "not owned" by their mothers
can be given good foster mothers; or if necessary brought up by hand, on
cow's milk in a nursing bottle.

DOCKING — Lambs are docked when a few days or a week old, and
CASTRATING the male lambs castrated then, as wounds to the tender
flesh heal quickly without much pain to the animal. The
knife used should be dipped in a solution of Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and
Disinfectant to guard against any infection.

WEANED LAMBS Best gains come where the little lambs are accus-
tomed to grain meal from the start, so that wean-
ing is easily accomplished. Lambs weaned in summer should always have
untouched pasture so as to avoid infection from stomach worms. Stomach
worms are sure to follow if old sheep and young lambs both have the same
pasture. Read page 185. Also read carefully page 50 on feeding lambs.

MARKET Mutton: Each graded according to (1) quality, (2) condition,
CLASSES (3) weight, and (4) form —

Lambs

Yearlings

Wethers

Ewes

Bucks

Stags

Feeders: Almost exclusively Western; graded for (1) quality, (2) form,

(3) condition, and (4) weight —

Lambs
Yearlings
Wethers
Ewes

Breeders: Graded according to (1) age, (2) constitution, (3) form,

(4) breeding, (5) quality, and (6) condition —

Bucks.

168 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

MARKETING It won't pay to send skinny, half-fat lambs to market.
Besides, it's easy to get lambs fat, and 30 Ibs. nice and
plump, rightly "dressed," and with plenty of caul to protect it, will show
bigger money than 40 Ibs. lean in flesh, small kidneys, and with a scanty,
veil-like caul for covering. So don't fail to finish your lambs properly for
market. It's this extra care just in the finishing that counts. For instance,
the rest of the flock will do nicely through the winter even if they don't
get grain in their ration. But put plenty of grain-fat on your lambs if
they are intended for that early market. Silage and hay alone won't make
a lamb that tops the market. But silage with alfalfa or clover hay and
grain will do it. Silage is useful for fattening some. But don't use in too
large amount. Practical feeders say 2l/2 Ibs. per day is the limit. It is
possible to fatten on a cheap ration without grain; for instance, alfalfa,
turnips and oil-meal. But read the section on Feeds and Feeding.

KEEP YOUR BEST Don't market your fine and fat ewe lamb. Keep
her even if you do miss a good price. You'll be

glad you saved her from the block when she is two years old and you
begin to get your reward in other lambkin duplicates of herself. It would
be different if it were easy to go out and get good ewes for breeding — but
you can't always tell just what you are getting. Always look over the
flock before winter comes, and cull out the old fat sheep and let the
butcher have them while their weight is up. Always keep your best.

The Wool Side of Sheep

A PERFECT A perfect fleece! It is a certificate of health and an adver-
FLEECE tisement of the sheepman's good care and management.

Even growth means even management. And the sheep
isn't the only one who gains or loses!

A SHEEP'S He keeps it every day; and whatever the record, he can
DIARY never erase it. He uses it chiefly to tell his troubles, setting

down every hardship, every period of suffering, every blight
of season or disease. Anyone who knows can read it, and the expert wool-
buyer always knows the language. See him test the wool of your sheep,
passing his hand over it for closeness and evenness, stretching a lock and
looking to see it "break." No need to look under the microscope. The
story is told; and if there are weak spots in the fibre of the wool, the
fleece is put aside as worthless or given only a poor grade. That "break"
has told the story.

"BREAKS" ARE Each fibre of wool is the sheep's diary. As it grows

WEAK SPOTS out of the skin it registers the animal's condition. In

its actual structure it changes with health or disease.'

A "break" or weak spot shows hardship. Going without water for several
days in hot dry weather will every time show this "break" in the staple.

Your sheep's back isn't all one grade of wool — far from it. It must
be sorted. Only the wool from the center sides is really first choice; at
the top and back it is coarser, grading back to the breach, where it is very
much inferior though better than the fleece on belly and brisket. The leg
wool is often useless. Study the diagrams carefully.

SHEEP RAISING

Look well to the fleece of the ram with which you cross your flock.
The wool-buyer running his hand over the fleece will detect every difference.

HEAD

J.EG

Grades of Fleece— (1) As roughly graded on the hoof. (2) As carefully graded on the
wool-sorters' diagram.

Evenness of size and appearance is mostly a matter of feeding; but
careful sorting of the flock before marketing will help to make this better,
more "uniform" appearance. You can do this if you make a single file
lane or alley, with a shunting gate; so that you can easily pass the animals
along into one compartment or another, according as you wish to examine
them. Climate affects the fleece. Very hard winters make the wool coarse
and more irregular, with a short undergrowth. Constant wetting dries
out the "yolk," and the wool lacks life and lustre. Wash the sheep one
week cr two before shearing. It will then be clean but regain sufficient
"yolk" for good market condition. Best not shear the little lamb, though
some do it. Better let it have its full unshorn fleece to temper its first
winter. Besides, the fleece of the yearling is always the best.

(DA lock of wool, (2, 3) sharp hooks which give Healthy and unhealthy fibres of wool,

strength and density to the spun and woven Notice the tell-tale "break."

thread, (4) kink or tw;st in fibre, which makes
possible a long, strong thread.

Fleece is frequently injured by the kind of preparations used in dipping.
Some old-fashioned "safe" dips are exceedingly dangerous. Read carefully
page 173 about Dips and Dipping. Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant,
see page 207, cures scabs and exterminates the sheep tick, does not curl,
burn or stain the wool, as do lime, arsenic and tobacco preparations.

Fleeces have always been a large part of the merchandising of the
world. It is *hp spiral fibre or twist that gives the wool its wonderful

170 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

value. And the finer the wool the more it is serrated, that is, furnished
with little hooks or points; in Saxony wool there are as many as 2,800 of
these little hooks (see illustration) to one inch, in fine Southdown wool
2,000, in Leicester 1,800, etc. The twist is necessary in spinning a thread.
The fine, almost innumerable little hooks on the scales help to make a
dense firm fabric. In the finished cloth this smooth matted surface must
be roughened or given a velvety nap by passing over it burs or teasels,
exactly as in ancient times they used the burs of the plant called "fuller's
teazel." Wool may be spun into thread so fine that one pound of the
finest would spin out 100 miles.

Of course, Merino wool is the finest; and the different breeds of
Merino vary. The life or glisten also varies. In general the long and
lustrous wooled varieties, Lincolns, Leicesters, etc., have not the kink for
spinning or the numerous clinging hooks which make the different Merinos
so valuable for fine weaving. All varieties are needed, as there are different
classes of demand in manufacture. It is just a question for each grower
which breed is best suited to his conditions and to his available market.

England likes to furnish us with her lustrous wools. France charges
us high prices for the exquisitely fine dress goods she makes from her
fine French Merinos. Both of these countries find wool growing a profit-
able industry on land which is the highest priced per acre of any in exist-
ence. In fact over all Europe sheep are the very basis of successful
agriculture.

Why are there then in the United States so many sheepless farmers?

Right Care of Sheep

Watch health conditions at every turn. As we have seen, ill health
affects even the wool of the sheep. These animals are hardy, but when
real misfortune comes they succumb to it quickly.

FRESH AIR In the matter of care, the first big thing to take note of
is that sheep need fresh air. No other kind of air will do.
Better no house at all than one that is close and stuffy, where parasites
breed until the fleece falls out, and colds and catarrh result from the
smothering heat of crowded bodies.

Sheep will not stand overcrowding. In winter shelter there should
be about 12 sq. ft. for each sheep.

The sheepfold must be ventilated, but must also be free from any
draught.

Why do sheep need more air than other livestock?

WINTER In the first place they are descended from mountain and free
SHELTER range ancestors, and their bodies are constructed for this
activity, which takes full breathing. Then, although so hardy,
they have weaker constitutions than any other farm animal; so that any
interference with the lungs and breathing quickly leads to other disorders.
One of the most critical times for the sheep farmer is when his flocks are
brought in from the fields and put into winter shelter. Some farmers
forget that, winter or summer, sheep must have plentiful fresh air. Better
a rough shed than a house, if the house isn't properly ventilated. Whether
a shed or a house, the important thing is to have it always dry, out of
the wind, and plentifully bedded.

CARE OF SHEEP 171

DRY COLD Cold doesn't matter — not to a sheep in his winter woolens!
IS SAFE Cold is what stimulates the fleece to grow. But there must

be no moisture, and no draught. Windows should be close
up to the eaves to guard against draughts. A good plan is to run the shed
north and south with windows at each end, thus avoiding east and west
exposures. When the wind blows from the north make that end tight,
and open the shed at the south end for ventilation; and when it blows
from the south, vice versa. Have the roof sound, or rain and snow will
soak the fleece. Ordinary snowfall the sheep can easily shake off from
the outer fleece, so that it never wets the skin. But if the whole shaggy
suit of wool is matted and wet there is nothing for it but to let the heavy
fleece slowly dry on them. You can imagine just how this feels — or if
you have no imagination just put on several heavy woolen suits and jump
in an ice bath in freezing weather, then stand outdoors while you "dry off."
Breeds with long open wools, parting clear to the skin along the line of
the back, should never be exposed to snow, or wet conditions. Then too
a wet fleece loses its "yolk" or "oily substance." The wet, cold animals
crowd up together, heating and matting the fleece, pressing it into "felt,"
destroying its weaving value. It becomes "cotted," as we call it.

SEPARATE PENS And while making that winter shelter, just separate
it into convenient pens or apartments, with movable

gates. You'll find plenty of reasons for doing so when you make ready to
feed and want to work in one pen without bother and without damaging
the fleece with falling chaff, etc. Then later on you'll want to separate the
breeding ewes from those to be fattened. Or you'll want to separate the
lambs according to ages, or pen off a part of your flock for a buyer or
butcher. Penning has many advantages.

FEED RACKS Racks for feeding save time and trouble. Also put up
a permanent trough for salt and preparations to hinder
internal parasites, such as the excellent formula given on page 46.

Don't feed too frequently in the same place, as the breath will spoil
the food, making it unpalatable. It is necessary to use Conkey's Nox-i-cide
Dip and Disinfectant regularly to disinfect all racks and troughs used in
feeding sheep if you expect to keep the flock from contagion. More about

disinfecting on page 125.

r

THE FLOOR Feeding racks for sheep on farms should be carefully con-
PLAN structed. Many sheepmen favor a long shed plan for a

sheep-house with racks in the center where all can get at
them. This plan gives a good area and is cheaper to build than the square
or round barn type. If you want double capacity, make it double deck —
sinking the first floor about three feet below the surface of the ground,
raising the second floor about four feet above the ground, thus giving
room for a man to stand upright in the lower part. Make runways to
each floor for the sheep. You will find this plan highly satisfactory in
practice. Sheep don't need costly housing. A light structure with plenty
of floor space will always answer. Of course a square building gives more
floor space than a long narrow building. The octagon and round style'
give most of all. Round buildings are expensive. But did you ever
investigate an octagon* style and see how .strong- and cheap it is for
building? '** > *;*-

'

172 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

THE GOOD Sheep are easily frightened, in fact, are very high strung
SHEPHERD animals. The good shepherd keeps them contented. This
is the only way to get maximum production from the flock.
Frequently a great cause for discontent on farms is irregular feeding —
this is true of all animals. Any animal can easily fret off more than the
delayed meal can put on. Besides, this isn't fair treatment.

WATER Be sure to give the sheep water that is fresh and clean. Give
plenty. They will thrive if watered only once a day; but the
gain is way out of proportion if they have free access to water and can
get it anytime.

If watered from troughs, don't let these become icy; but after sheep
are through drinking turn each trough over. If sheep are allowed to drink
icy water their bodies soon become chilled. This lowers the natural vigor
and takes more feed to warm up. Sheep are easy victims to chilled
stomachs. Ewes often lose their lambs from this one cause.

SALT Keep salt before the flock. It is about as necessary as food. Too
little in the blood shows relaxation. If where the sheep can help
themselves anytime they won't overeat it. Salt helps to keep down internal
parasites. Better attention to salting would cut down about half the present
trouble with these pests.

Read page 46 for a good formula for a home made medicated stock salt
that is an ideal conditioner for sheep. It is easy to make and costs less
than 2*/2 cents a pound. This simple conditioner will practically insure the
flock from internal parasites.

PARASITES Parasites, both internal and external, favor sheep. They
are the big enemy to sheepmen's profits. Under diseases
we discuss this big subject fully. Here is a special caution: Treat the
collie at regular intervals for intestinal worms or he will pass this infesta-
tion over to your flock and soon they will be having Gid or Staggers.
Conkey's Worm Drops are the specific dog worm remedy. A collie dog
with worms is the worst natural enemy to your sheep. Treatment must
be regular, every two months, and of course the dog must be tied up away
from the flock during the treatment.

DISINFECTING Remember, for all disease, the old warning is the best
advice — Prevention: Disinfect their quarters, using
Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant. Sprinkle all corners or hedge
bottoms where they gather in hot weather. This will sweeten the ground,
and tend to keep healthy their hoofs.

DIPPING In most of the Western States the use of a dip is enforced.
Sheep are not admitted to national range unless certified free
from disease, or dipped according to legal requirement. It is believed
that combined efforts like this will practically stamp out the terrible scab
disease. In Montana, if animals with contagious diseases, such as lip
or leg ulceration, etc., are net promptly treated after due notice, they are
taken up by the state, and the state veterinarian treats them at the cost of
the owner. Loss from sheep scab is great only where treatment is neglected.
It is easily cured at the simple cost of Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disin-
fectant, used as directed.

CARE OF SHEEP 173

Dipping, twice a year is possible, is really indispensable to the health
and comfort of the flock. The improved condition of the fleece will alone
repay every dollar spent in dipping when Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and
Disinfectant is the liquid used. But dipping does even more than this for
sheep. Where the dip is an antiseptic, such as Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip
and Disinfectant is, it does a good deal more than merely clean the skin,
cure scab, remove the scab mite, ticks, lice and fungoid parasites of the
wool. It opens the pores, and helps the body get rid of the poisons in
the blood. It increases the general health as well as bodily comfort of the
animal. It improves the wool. Not all dips can be safely used, as .some
will injure the wool on account of their acrid nature, or if, not harmful in
this point will stain it and thus spoil its market value. Of course avoid
dangerous lime and sulphur mixtures, or those with arsenic in them which
will injure the sheep if they chance to get any in their mouths while dipping;
and which are almost sure to injure the lambs if the ewes are not thor-
oughly dry before the lambs have access to them. This applies to tobacco
dips also, and besides tobacco dips spoil the wool.

THE DIPPING A convenient size for the dip trough for a small flock
TROUGH is 12 ft., with slanting sides, so that bottom of trough is

about 8 inches, while the top is thirty, deep enough to
keep the whole animal under except the head. Keep the dip at a tempera-
ture of 100-110 degrees. Of course when fresh water is added for tempera-
ture the right proportion of the Dip and Disinfectant must also be added.
From the trough the sheep goes to a detaining pen with sloping floor
running back to the trough, so that all liquid draining from the animal
will run back to the dip vat.

NO HARM TO With Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant there

LAMB OR SHEEP is no danger to nursing lambs, as the mixture will not
even nauseate the animals. If the sheep itself swal-
lows a mouthful or two, so much the better, for its properties are also
antiseptic and will help to kill internal germs and heal any diseased places.
It will set up coughing and sneezing if a little gets into the nostrils and
so help to dislodge the bot-fly. Used after shearing Conkey's Nox-i-cide
Dip and Disinfectant will heal any cuts. After shearing is the time some
farmers dip; as it is far more economical than when the whole heavy fleece
must be soaked up in the dip liquid. Shorn sheep with any cuts in the skin
from shearing are exposed to blow-flies, arid consequent serious trouble
Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant heals such places.

FLIES In summer, flies are the terrible sheep enemy, especially summer
blow-flies. Much can be done to lessen trouble by proper care
of the rumps, cleaning and clipping the filthy locks and treating with the
same disinfectant solution. Dipping every six to eight weeks during the
season will act as a fly preventive. Or the Fly Knocker can be used on
face and hindquarters, which are most liable to attack. Some sheepmen
plough up the earth so the animals can grovel their noses for safety,
which seems to be their instinctive means of protection. Daubing the
sheep's nose with common tar, is a good practice; especially if the tar is
softened up with Conkey's Fly Knocker, which destroys any eggs in the
nostril and will keep the bot-fly from alighting again. The sheep muzzles
should be smeared every second or third day with this preparation. See
more about these bots or gid flies on page 180 under Diseases.

174 __ CQNKEY'S STOCK BOOK

FENCING In summer make sure that you have the farm well fenced.
Fencing is necessary because sheep don't get on well with
other farm animals, and should never come in contact with hogs in par-
ticular. Use woven wire, not barbed. Barbed wire damages the fleece
and frequently wounds the animals, making them more liable to infection.
Besides, barbed wire doesn't keep out dogs. What you want is a dog-
proof fence — the better returns at lambing season will pay for it time and
time over. Dogs run and chase the sheep, and the flock frets off its
gains in fleece and flesh fast as you can put it on. You don't always
know when this is going on. Watch the dogs at night. Sheep never bleat
out their troubles except in hunger or loneliness. You might never know
the dogs were chasing and running them, but up and down, up and down,
all night long they may go, frightened and wounded, but fleeing in silence.
Breeding ewes badly frightened rarely ever recover entirely.

KEEPS Another reason fencing pays for itself, is because you

PASTURE FRESH can do with less acreage; always keeping some pas-
ture untouched for lambs at weaning. Change of

pasture is good for sheep. If you have to do with one pasture, then divide
that, letting the sheep graze two weeks in each half. This keeps it fairly
fresh, whereas the other way the flinty hoofs would soon pound out every
living blade. More fencing and better will in time lead to more sheep in
the country — and better. At present in the leading agricultural states of
the United States there are not over 25 sheep to each 1000 acres. Great
Britain has 300 to every square mile. No wonder the farm economists are
preaching more sheep to American farmers.

MORE SHEEP! Even with intensive farming you can give the sheep
some show of range. Utilize the fence corners. Let

them into the weed lot and brush lot. They will make good mutton, and
in the meantime help you to clear the land. Let them into the stubble field,
where they can pick up the scattered grain that would otherwise go to
waste. Every little helps in the problem of thrifty farming. Sheep con-
sume classes of feed that other livestock neglect entirely. The sheep is a
natural optimist and will pick up a plunk of wood or bit of bark, chew it
with relish and say grace for it.

A sheep never dies in debt to its owner — says the wise old proverb!
Go to it, sheepless farmers!

CARE OF SHEEP

175

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176 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

Common Diseases of Sheep

ABORTION Next to the cow, the ewe is most liable to this trouble, al-
though with proper care from the flockmaster most cases
can be prevented. Abortion in ewes is commonly caused by some one of
the following: Pasturing on frosty herbage in wet, cold weather; overload-
ing the stomach with coarse, innutritious fodder; eating such food as rag-
weed, frozen turnip leaves, beet leaves; ergoted grain or hay, smutty corn
or oats, etc.; jostling or hustling by the flock; chasing by dogs. The careful
shepherd will be on his guard against all such dangers. Treat the same
as with cattle, page 141, using about one-fourth the amount of carbolic
acid for the hypodermic injection.

ANAEMIA — This disease attacks lambs usually. See description under
PAPER SKIN Hoose, Husk, Paper Skin, etc.

BLOAT The symptoms are swelling of the abdomen, with skin tense like
a drum. The left side, over the paunch or rumen, is most affected.
The animal stops eating and shows dulness, pain and suffocation. The
trouble is due to gas distending the paunch, which is full of fermenting
food. The attack may follow drinking a great quantity of water immediately
after eating, or feeding on frozen forage, wet pasture, such as corn, clover,
rape, etc., with the dew on it. It may come from overeating any succulent
feed, to which they have not been accustomed. • Usually the whole flock is
affected at the same time. Relief must be prompt or they will suffocate.

Treatment Same as for Cattle, page 143, but first clip away the wool, then
plunge the trocar into the paunch of each animal, midway
between hip and last rib, about three inches from the backbone. When the
trocar is pulled out, the canula, being a hollow tube, will let the gas out
immediately. When the gas has escaped take out the canula and the wound
will close together. Of course the instrument should be clean ready for
emergency; and it is better to oil it before plunging into the animal. If the
trocar and canula are not handy use a clean knife, dipping it in Conkey's
Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant solution (l/2 tablespoonful to 1 pint of
water), and insert a large quill to keep the passage open after the knife
is pulled out After this give each animal a tablespoonful of baking soda in
l/2 pint of warm water, which will stop further fermentation. Then treat
the animal to bring back to condition, with a drench as follows:

3 oz. sodium sulphate.

1 teaspconful of Conkey's Stock Tonic.

1 pint warm water.

Sometimes bloat can be relieved by driving the whole flock into a
stream, or by dashing cold water over the side, thus starting contraction
so that the gas will be expelled naturally. In any treatment, give the doses
indicated above, to step further fermentation and to bring the flock back
to condition.

CATARRH — COLD This is a common trouble in spring or fall, but may
IN THE HEAD occur any time on exposure to cold winds or rains.

Usually it occurs after washing or shearing. The
symptoms are snuffing', sneezing, coughing.

Treatment Put the s^eep in dry, v arm, clean quarters and mix with the

feed Conkey's Stock TOVM'C according to directions. If the

discharge from the nose interferes with breathing, wash the noses with a

DISEASES OF SHEEP

177

warm solution of Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, using 1 part
to 50 parts warm water.

FLUKE DISEASE — This is a disease of the liver, but is not so common

LIVER ROT in this country as in England; but may occur

wherever sheep are on damp, swampy pasture. At

first there is bloating, which may be mistaken for fat condition. But if you
rub the small of the back or press against the ribs you will hear a crackling
sound as the flabby tissue slips beneath the hand. Flukes do not attack
sheep on high, dry land; for the reason that the fluke embryo passes its first
stage in a certain species of snail found only in wet places. Should these
snails be destroyed by frogs, carp, etc., this cuts down the danger from
fluke disease. It is not known just how the fluke makes its way into the
liver of the sheep, but it lodges there and in time destroys the substance
of the organ. WHEN THE SYMPTOMS OF FLUKE DISEASE AP-
PEAR IT IS ALREADY TOO LATE TO GIVE ANY TREATMENT.
In fact, at first the flukes seem to stimulate the action of the liver and the
sheep shows extra good condition. In the course of a month or two it
loses rapidly, however, and the wool becomes harsh and dry and finally
drops out. The animal loses appetite or shows depraved appetite. The bowels
may show diarrhea or constipation symptoms.

Prevention is the only treatment, namely, keep the flock on high dry land,
or if this is not possible, kill the flukes before they get past
the stomach. The very best prevention treatment is with the following
anti-parasite mixture, which is the same as the Conkey formula for a medi-
cated stock salt, namely:

9 pounds common barrel salt,

1 pound Conkey's Stock Tonic,

mixed thoroughly and kept in a dry place, where the sheep can help them-
selves as wanted. Keep all other salt away from the stock; as this medicated
salt will be all they need for any purpose. The cheapest way to prepare
the above is to use 2 five pound packages of Conkey's Stock Tonic to 90 Ibs.
common barrel salt. This will give 100 Ibs. of veterinary salt at a total cost
of less than 2l/2o. a pound. A pound of this mixture will be sufficient for four
or five sheep for one fortnight. There is no danger of the animals over-
dosing, so long as this Stock Tonic salt is before them all the time, and
they can help themselves just when they want it.

FOOT-ROT The first symptom is
a lameness in one
foot, and if neglected this spreads to
the others. Trouble starts as a red,
moist spot in the cleft above the
hoofs, but quickly works in the hern
and soon there is a thin, foul dis-
charge. The foot spreads above the
hoofs and feels hot and tender to the
touch. If neglected the hoof be-
comes wholly diseased and falls away.
The discharge from the foot will
carry the disease to other animals
running on the same ground. Foot-rot at different stages

Treatment Wet marshy ground us-
ually starts the trouble; and the first thing is to drain wet
pastures. Don't feed on wet, muddy lands. Pare down the hoof, taking off

178 __. CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

all overgrowth, then stand the sheep in a four inch deep solution of Nox-i-
cide Dip and Disinfectant, 1 quart to 12 of water. Fill all cracks with a
paste dressing — flour and Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, using 1 table-
spoonful of Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant to five of water. If cutting has
been very deep, it is well to bandage. Dressing the hoof with Conkey's
Hoof Remedy will hasten development of healthy new horn.

GARGET — There are two forms of this disorder, known as

INFLAMED UDDER simple and malignant. In simple garget the udder

is swollen tense, and feels hot and hard to the

touch. Pus or blood appears in the milk. The cause may be (1) too much
grain in the feed of the ewe immediately after lambing; (2) banking up of
the milk from slack nursing or loss of the lamb; (3) catching cold, usually
from lying on chilled ground; (4) irritation and soreness from the lamb's
constant bunting of the ewe.

Treatment for Simple Garget — Give Epsom salts to relieve the feverish
symptoms, using 5 oz. to 1 pint of water. Bathe the bag with warm water,
dry gently, then rub well with Conkey's Bag Relief, to soften it and reduce
the inflammation. Then keep the udder milked clean.

In malignant garget the udder is swollen, but instead of being hard
and tense feels soft. It is red or purplish from congestion. The ewe shows
general symptoms of fever, dulness, no appetite, and loss of flesh. In time
the gland tissue of the udder dies and sloughs off.

Treatment for Malignant Garget — There is no cure for a true case of
malignant garget. Separate the ewe from the rest of the flock and disinfect
thoroughly with Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, 2 teaspoonfuls
in a pint of warm water. This will keep the disease from spreading. As
soon as the part is dead it should be cut away without waiting for natural
sloughing. To heal dress with the Dip or Disinfectant or sprinkle Conkey's
Healing Powder over the cut surface. The Healing Powder has astringent
properties, and hence is valuable for all surgery cases.

GID — STURDY — The symptoms are swaying, reeling, moving around in
STAGGERS — a circle or running straight forward with head up, or

TURN SICK other peculiar, unconscious and irresponsible move-

ments several times a day. At first the symptom may

be only dulness and clumsy moving around. These symptoms usually dis-
appear and return again in four to
six months, although death may
come in a few days or a week. The
cause of the various symptoms is
disturbance of the brain due to the
presence of Gid bladder worms.
These worms are developed from
the eggs of the dog tape-worm,
and get into the pasture or water
from the droppings of the sheep Gid worm (tenia coenurus)

dog affected with tape-worm. From

the stomach these embryos make their way to the brain or spinal cord.
The first symptoms seem to disappear soon as the embryos find a permanent
resting place in the brain. But in the course of four to six months they
encyst themselves (that is, form bladder-like sacks) and it is the pressure
from these cysts that affects the brain and causes the peculiar unbalanced
actions.

Treatment for Gid is preventive: The chief thing is to prevent infec-
tion of the pasture, etc., by tape-worms. At regular intervals,
all sheep dogs should be tied up away from the flock and purged for tape

DISEASES OF SHEEP 179

worms, using Conkey's Special Dog Worm Remedy. A practical plan is to
butcher the sheep for market before they lose condition, since the mere
presence of the gid-worms at that stage does not affect the marketableness
of the flesh. In this case, however, take special care to destroy the brain
and spinal cord of the butchered animals; for if the dogs eat these infected
parts the tape-worms will develop again and the whole trouble will go on
in an endless chain.

GRASS This disease should be carefully distinguished from Gid, just

STAGGERS described. In grass staggers the animal has a staggering gait,
and the actions are restless and delirious. Sometimes there is
drowsiness. The disease develops slowly, the first symptom being loss of
condition, no appetite, fever and constipation; the eyes staring, the nose dry
and hot. The cause is wrong feeding, due to one of the following: (1)
innutritious feed, mostly roughage; (2) sudden change in feeding; (3) food
too rich, especially too much concentrate or grain; for instance, feeding
millet hay when heavily seeded may cause this sickness.

Treatment Purge the animal, then mix with the feed Conkey's Stock
Tonic as directed. This will bring back the appetite, act as a
tonic, and also correct the trouble with digestion. A little oil meal added
to the feed will greatly benefit the sheep.

The following is a good formula for treating Grass Staggers, but is more
trouble to give, and also more expensive:

One-half pint linseed tea to each animal with 2 teaspoon-
fuls of this mixture: \l/2 oz. aromatic spirits of ammonia, l/2
dram fluid extract of nux vomica, 2l/2 oz. alcohol.

This should be given twice a day until appetite returns. Then feed
carefully, giving a little oil meal.

GRUB IN During July and August the gad-
THE HEAD fly is abroad in the land, seeking
its chance to deposit its egg in the
nostril of the sheep. The sheep fear this pest, and
during the egg laying season will huddle to-
gether, their noses pressed into each other's fleece
or buried in the ground or between their fore-
legs. When a sheep is "struck" or stung by a
gad-fly it leaps frantically, shakes its head and
seems to be trying to rub the egg from the nos- Diagram showing location of
tril. The sting subsides and the sheep shows no grub in the head and where to
further symptoms until the following spring, by Jhemine the SkuU t£> remove
which time the larvae are developed and begin to
burrow, working their way up into the nose

cavities, and hollow folds and sometimes reaching even the brain. The
symptom at this stage is a bloody discharge from the nose and sneezing.
Often sneezing will dislodge the grub and there will be no further trouble,
unless the sheep has been "struck" several times in one fly season. If the
grub succeeds in making its way to the brain instant death results.

Treatment If the animal is valuable the grub can be removed by the
operation of trepanning the skull, and the larvae cleaned out.
See diagram cut. But the only cheap and practical treatment is preventive
as follows: During fly season smear the nose of each sheep every few
days with a mixture of tar and Conkey's Fly Knocker. The Fly Knocker

ISO CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

can be used alone, but the tar daubed on the nose will remain longer, thus
be more convenient.

The flies will not strike the sheep so treated. Other suggestions for pre-
vention are to plow up the pasture so as to give the sheep soft ground
which to burrow their noses. Or, provide a dark shed for the sheep to run
under during the fly season. Conkey's Stock Tonic mixed with the feed, or
added to the salt for the flock, 1 part to 9 parts salt, will help the sheep over
this trying season when they are apt to lose condition. Put this salt
mixture in a trough covered with a board in which you have made holes just
large enough for the sheep to get the salt;%nd keep the holes smeared with
pine tar and Conkey's Fly Knocker. Wlreflrthe sheep go to the salt trough
they will daub their own noses and save you the trouble of applying.

HOOSE— HUSK— This common dis-

PAPERSKIN— ease affects lambs

LUNGWORM mostly under one

year old. The

symptoms are spasmodic, suffocating
cough, with a running discharge from
the nose. Breathing is very difficult,
so that the blood loses vitality. The
lamb becomes dull, loses flesh, and the
eyes and lips appear bloodless. The
skin becomes harsh, dry and paperlike,
hence the name "paperskin". The
wool is dry and easily pulled out. The Lung worm (strongylus filaria)

trr>nK1^ ic rln^ tr> th^ Inner ixrnrrn o r>ar These small white worms gather in clusters
trou ble is clue to the lung-worm, a par- and are almost invisible in t£e frothy mucous

asite which finds its way into the bron- of the throat and lungs.

chial tubes and lungs, where it is found

in clusters of small, threadlike worms, almost indistinguishable in the frothy

mucous.

Treatment Medical treatment is difficult, because of the location of these
worms; as it is hard for a medicine taken into the stomach to
act directly on the air passages. Sometimes the worm can be dislodged by
giving each lamb 1 teaspoonful of turpentine in milk before the regular morn-
ing feed, keeping up this treatment for one week. This saturates the system,
and the fumes are given off in the lungs. Another good treatment is to put
the lambs in a closed room and fumigate them with sulphur and alcohol in a
deep pan, set in a tub of water. Give the lambs nutritious, easily digested
food, such as linseed meal, oatmeal and bran, with Conkey's Stock Tonic
mixed in the feed according to directions. This will insure full digestion of
the feed, and also act as a tonic and alterative for the system. This treat-
ment will be found very successful.

Prevention Feed the lambs on bare lots, and away from the old sheep.
When lambs are fed on lots where old sheep have been grazing
and coughing up the worms, the lambs are pretty sure to become infested.
Also take care that the water is not infected. During the coughing spasm
many of the worms are dislodged, and if these fall into the drinking water
the lambs are easily infected. Also, for the whole flock, use the anti-parasite
mixture as follows, putting it where the animals can help themselves. This
anti-parasite mixture is the same as our general formula for veterinary salt,
as follows:

90 Ibs. common barrel salt,

10 Ibs. Conkey's Stock Tonic (2 packages, $1.00 size),

DISEASES OF SHEEP 181

Mix thoroughly and keep in a dry place, where the sheep can help
themselves. The cost is less than 2l/2c a pound; so that this stock salt is
cheap as well as effective. Estimate one pound of the mixture a week for
every eight or ten sheep or lambs. Lambs that have lost condition, should
be built up by good feed, and the full strength Stock Tonic, according to
directions on packages.

MAGGOTS Any open wounds or sores on sheep are liable to become in-
fested with maggots. Treat all such places with Conkey's
Healing Powder, and get them quickly cured as a preventive. When maggots
are already found in a sore, paint the part with sulphur and benzoated lard,
half and half, or oil of tar, or use simply a solution of Conkey's Nox-i-cide
Dip and Disinfectant, 2 tablespoonfuls of the Nox-i-cide Dip and Disin-
fectant to a pint of water.

MALIGNANT In this disease the symptoms are running at the nose,
CATARRHAL swollen eyelids, sometimes matter gluing the eyelids. The
FEVER sheep breathes rapidly, coughs, loses appetite, and the

digestion is all out of order. The symptom may be loose-
ness or constipation of the bowels.

Treatment Separate the sick animals at once, and disinfect the quarters
thoroughly with Conkey's Dip and Disinfectant according to
directions for mixing with water. For individual treatment, swab or spray
the nose and mouth with Conkey's Pain Lotion. Put the sheep in a dry,
clean, airy shed, and mellow them up with a few meals of warm bran and
linseed mash. Keep the whole flock on nourishing feed. Twice a day mix
with the feed Conkey's Stock Tonic, 1 tablespoonful to every five sheep, as
directed. This treatment will very quickly correct the digestive disturb-
ance and tone the whole system to fine, healthful condition.

NODULAR This disease is named from the tumors or nodules found in the
DISEASE walls of the intestines. It is what sheepmen know as "knotty
guts." In each of these tumors or nodules is found a larval
worm. The symptoms of nodular disease are poor condition, dulness, weak-
ness, paleness of eyes and lips, and dried-up wool. Nodular disease is
sometimes hard to distinguish from stomach worms.

Treatment Remove the flock from the infested pasture to high dry land,
where no sheep have been for at least eight months previous.
See that there is plenty of water, and that it is pure. Keep before the flock
all the time the anti-parasite mixture described above, namely, the veter-
inary salt made up as follows: 9 parts common barrel salt, 1 part Conkey's
Stock Tonic, mixed thoroughly and kept in a dry place. Feed the flock
liberally to build up good condition. The medicated salt will usually be all
that is necessary, but for the first week or ten days we advise using the full-
strength Stock Vigor mixed with the feed according to directions on pack-
ages. This will act as tonic treatment, and quickly bring the sheep around
to good condition. A small quantity of Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Dis-
infectant in the drinking water, say a good half-cupful to 1 pail of water, will
be very beneficial for internal treatment, and should be given first before
moving the flock to new pasture, and repeated every few days after the
flock has been moved.

182

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

Prevention This is another case where the easiest and safest way is to
prevent infection. The anti-parasite mixture described above,
which can be mixed up at home cheaply, using common barrel salt, will
act as a preventive, if kept before the sheep all the time, so that they can
help themselves. This mixture is very cheap, costing only 2l/2c. a pound.
Ninety pounds of salt and ten pounds of Conkey's Stock Tonic, costing less
than $2.50 for the hundred pounds, will be enough to last a flock of 50 sheep
for fully four months.

SCAB This is the
scourge of the
sheep industry, which
annually costs sheep
owners thousands and
thousands of dollars.
Scab is very conta-
gious. It is caused by
an itching, mangy, skin
parasite, a kind of mite,
just big enough to be
seen by the naked eye.
The bite of this mange
mite or scab mite
raises itching blisters
on the skin and with
constant irritation and
scratching of the sheep
the skin becomes much
inflamed, the blisters
break and form yellow-
brown scabs which
give the name to the
disease. The scabby

skin cracks and ulcerates and the wool falls out in bunches. Usually the
back and sides, rump and shoulders are the worst affected parts. The
picture, copied from a photograph, shows the actual work of scab mites. In
most sheep states the laws are very strict for treating scab in sheep, on
account of the contagion. It is known that old buildings, posts, or even
tufts of wool on bushes or range, will harbor these mites and start the
infection in a healthy flock.

Treatment Dipping is the only remedy. There are various kinds of
dips; and while all of them kill the scab mite, many are ex-
tremely dangerous, if allowed to get into the mouth, eyes or nose. Such
poisonous dips not only endanger the sheep, but since they burn, curl and
stain the wool, they are absolutely unfit to use for dipping purposes. It
has long been a scientific problem to find a dip solution that would actually
kill the scab mite, and at the same time be safe for the sheep. Where the
fleece has already been destroyed by the disease, the poisonous dips (such as
arsenic, lime and sulphur, tobacco, etc.), are still unsafe to use on account
of the chance of the sheep's getting the dip in the mouth, nose or eyes, or
the danger of lambs nursing. We positively guarantee Conkey's Nox-i-cide
Dip and Disinfectant to be safe, non-poisonous, non-corrosive, and that it
does not even stain the wool. It does kill the scab mites. But as with e-very
dip, a second treatment 10 days later is necessary to kill the nits which Ijatch
out. The female scab mite lays its eggs (usually ten eggs) under the-.scab
and these hatch out and mature in about 15 days. Thus it is easy to see

Drawing from actual photograph of scabby sheep. 2. Common
scab mites (psoroptes communis). These insects are larger
than the head mite and are easily seen by the naked eye.

DISEASES OF SHEEP 183

how quickly even one mite could start the infection; as in three months'
time a single mite can produce almost one million. Scab is easily cured by
the use of Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant. If possible dip twice
a year, as the dip is a general benefit to the health and condition, cleaning
the skin, healing any sore as well as killing the scab mites, and also ridding
the sheep of ticks. Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant actually
improves the wool. Lambs can nurse the ewes immediately after dipping.
If any of the Dip liquid gets into the mouth it is beneficial rather than
harmful; as it will help to rid the stomach and intestines of worms. If a
little gets up the nostril it will cause sneezing, and so help to dislodge grub
in the head. In dipping, use a trough and let each animal be held in the
solution for two minutes, and let the head be ducked under at least once.
When the sheep is taken out of the dip stand it on a board platform
sloping back into the dip trough, so that the liquid can be squeezed out, and
will not be wasted. The temperature of the dip liquid should be 100 to 110
degrees. Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant mixes with warm water
in the proportion of 1 part to about 67 of water. This makes it cheap, which
is another important essential for practical treatment. Where sheep are
affected with Foot-rot, they can be prepared for special treatment, see
paragraph before, and the dipping for scab and treatment for foot-rot can
be performed at one operation and handling of the flock.

SCOURS A foul smelling loose discharge, with much soiling of the tail,
* hips and legs, characterizes this disease. The animal loses appe-
tite; but shows a pot belly, with evident pain in the abdomen, as it is rest-
less and switches the tail constantly. Weakness and lean condition follow.

Treatment The treatment is according to the age of the animal. If a suckling
then the trouble is (1) from wrong feed or care of the ewe or
(2) from navel infection. Of course, if this latter trouble, the only treatment
is prevention — careful disinfection of the lambing quarters before lambing,
and immediate washing of the stump of the cord of the newborn lamb with
Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant solution; or in absence of this a 5% solution
of carbolic acid. Then paint with iodine. If the trouble is with the ewe,
give first a mild laxative, and then mix Conkey's Stock Tonic with the feed
according to directions. This will act as the necessary alterant. It will also
tone up the general system. If the scouring lamb is already weaned, the
cause must be overfeeding, or too sudden changes in the way of feeding,
or a feed ration out of proper balance. (See page 50.) Again, the trouble
may come from cold, damp quarters. First, give 2 teaspoonfuls of castor oil
with two to three drops of Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant. Keep the sick
animals on gruels instead of whole grain and dry fodder for a few days and
give 1 teaspoonful of Conkey's Stock Tonic at each feeding. After the
animal is on regular feed, use Conkey's Stock Tonic with the feed accord-
ing to directions.

SHEEP Intense itching, followed by rough thickened skin, black and
LICE scabby, with short dry twisted wool, indicates lice. The cure is
dipping, using a solution of Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disin-
fectant (1 gallon to 67 gallons of water). Give special attention to the head,
and keep the sheep immersed a full minute. If the dip liquid is squeezed out
of the fleece and allowed to drain back into the dip tank, 68 gallons will be
enough for 70 head.

184 CQNKEY'S STOCK BOOK

SHEEP These ticks stay in the wool, only getting down to the skin occa-
TICKS sionally to suck blood. So long as they cling to the wool they
do not bother the animal; but if neglected they multiply until
there is a continual itching and biting, keeping the sheep in torment. Lambs
are the worst sufferers. The only treatment is dipping, using Conkey's
Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant in a solution (1 gallon to 67 gallons of
water); hold in this dip a little over two minutes, then stand the animal
on dripping board while you squeeze the dip from the wool. In this way
each sheep will use up l/2 gallon of the mixture. Usually it is necessary to
dip a second time, two or three weeks from the first, to destroy nits. Give
the sheds or pastures rest for a week or so. Clean up the old quarters and
disinfect with Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant thoroughly.

SORE This condition is distinct from the true foot and mouth disease,
MOUTH being simply ulceration. It is not contagious; but the germs
remain in pastures or sheds, and wherever the mouth is torn or
scratched by the forage, these germs enter and inflammation sets in. In
the same way, if the feet are cut by brambles, the germs enter and the
animal goes lame.

Treatment Remove the scabs and wash the sores twice daily with Nox-i-
cide Dip and Disinfectant solution, 1 teaspoonful to a
pint of warm water, 1 part to 100 parts water. Clean up all lots and sheds,
and disinfect. This will prevent further infection.

STOMACH These worms cause a great deal of trouble to sheep, and loss
WORMS of profit to owners. They are usually found in the fourth
stomach where they gorge themselves with the blood of the
sheep, and cause an unthrifty, dull, lean and weak condition. The skin is
pale. Sometimes a loose, painless puffing or swelling shows under the
jaws. The animal has diarrhea and great thirst, but may or may not relish
food.

Treatment is difficult with any medicine; but the following has been suc-
cessful: a solution of Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, 1 tea-
spoonful in a pint of water, shaken up to a milky fluid or emulsion, given
every other day for three days in doses as follows: Lambs, four to six
tablespoonfuls; sheep, eight to ten. Dose should be on the empty stomach,
and no feed or water allowed for three hours after. This medicine will
have to be given as a drench to each animal separately, or if this is imprac-
tical, try as easier method, mixing with the feed Conkey's Worm Remedy in
its pure state, allowing 1 tablespoonful to 5 sheep. Treat the infested pasture
by burning it over in the fall or spring. To be safe, infected pasture should
not be used by cattle or sheep for a year unless thus burned over. Old
sheep can resist stomach worms much better than young lambs. Sucking
lambs first get infected by sucking at the foul locks of the dam. Later
they pick up the eggs while grazing on the same pasture with the ewes.
The best plan is to treat the ewes all winter, giving daily access to Stock
Vigor mixed dry with barrel salt, 1 part to 9 parts of salt, which will act
as an anti-parasite, and keep the animals otherwise in fine condition. At
all times, whether in feed lot or pasture, keep the Stock Tonic Salt where all
the sheep can get at it. When they can get it just as they want it, there
will be no danger of their taking too much any time. Mixed in this pro-
portion, 10 Ibs. of Stock Tonic to 90 Ibs. of barrel salt, you have an effective,
home-made, cheap, veterinary salt, costing you less than 2y2 cents a pound.
Estimate 1 pound per head for 60 days. The cost is nothing in comparison
—you practically insure your flock.

DISEASES OF SHEEP 185

TAPE WORMS Unthriftiness is the chief sign of tape worms, with con-
tinued and increasing loss of condition. Sometimes the
gait is unsteady from weakness. Sometimes the flanks are distended with
gas; while the appetite is keen, the animal continually craving for food and
water. But the chief symptom is the actual finding of segments or joints
of the tape worm in the droppings. The worms are of two kinds — the
fringed tape worm taking up its place in the bile-duct and the broad tape
worm attaching itself to the intestines.

Treatment There is no positive way to reach the fringed tape worm in the
bile duct. The broad tape worm in the intestines succumbs
to the following treatment: Withhold all food for twenty-four hours, then
give one-half to one dram of extract of male fern in two to four ounces of
castor oil. Do not use the infected pasture for either sheep or cattle. How-
ever, if the tape worms are of the fringed species, the same pasture will
do for horses and cattle, as the fringed species will not attack them, but in
time die out. Be sure to feed the flock well, give plenty of drinking water,
have salt where they can get it, and wherever possible move them fre-
quently from pasture to pasture. This is another case where an anti-parasite
mixture, such as already described, using common barrel salt thoroughly
mixed with Conkey's Stock Tonic in proportion of 1 part Stock Tonic
to 9 parts common salt, will cost practically nothing — not over a cent and a
quarter a month for a sheep, but will practically guarantee you against
serious losses from tape worms or other numerous parasites of stomach
and intestines. It is also plain, that where this mixture is constantly before
the animals, so that they get it with regularity (for they will help themselves
to a little each day if it is always where they can get it), it will actually
destroy the fringed tape worm above referred to before it has a chance to
get to the bile duct, where no method of treatment can be sure of reaching
it. The common sense plan is to treat these parasites before they get past
the stomach or intestines. Then you have got them!

%

WOOL-EATING Sheep do not have many vices, but this is one of them.
It is caused by some defect in the feed, and is especially
common in winter. It will be necessary to separate the wool eaters from
the flock, but the whole flock should have change in feed, giving a little corn
if possible. Mix Conkey's Stock Tonic with the ground feed, 1 teaspoonful
to each sheep. Sometimes in lambs the habit is formed from sucking at
the clotted wool tags around the udder of the dam. It is plain that
attention to these, trimming them away from the udder, will prevent the
habit.

186

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

SWINE

WITHOUT doubt this country is the greatest country for swine grow-
ing in the world.
The Mississippi Valley or the corn belt, where grain and pastur-
age conditions are favorable, represents the very center of the indus-
try today. The South, with its abundant corn and many suitable forage
crops, could do much more than it is doing, but at present the twelve states
of the corn belt, with Iowa far in the lead, head the world for product and
values. Estimating approximately 80,000,000 swine in America, 90% are
in the United States, contributing a wealth (figures of 1908) of $339,030,000.

Moreover, the greater part of all these are raised for home consumption.
Surplus products, such as bacon, ham, salt pork, live hogs, lard compounds,
fresh pork, canned pork and lard oil, are exported annually to an extent
way up in the millions. But the amount for home consumption is fully
four times as great as all this.

One curious fact is, we butcher annually 10% more than the total num-
ber raised. Can you figure this? It looks like a puzzle or some such fool-
ism; but this statement simply means that the increase in production is so
enormous that each year we seemingly kill more than we raise because the
new litters so quickly replace the butchered stock.

IOWA In 1908 production, Iowa led with 8,413,000 swine raised. Illinois
LEADS came next, 4,672,000; and Nebraska, Missouri, Indiana, Texas,
Kansas, Ohio, Wisconsin, Georgia, Tennessee and Michigan fol-
lowed in the order named. Meanwhile the world's swine markets are
Chicago, Kansas City, St. Joseph, Indianapolis and Milwaukee, in the order
named.

HOW IT'S The history of this industry in America is one of wonderful
GROWN interest. Wonderful, not only in the growth of the industry,

but for the marvelous improvement of type by careful breed-
ing. It is fair to say that more improvement has been made by breeder?

SWINE RAISING 187

with this animal than with any other on the farm. This progress dates
from about 1865, and shows a revolution in standards; so that instead of
the old mammoth, slow-maturing swine of older days we have the vigorous
modern animal 175 to 400 Ibs., and running to flesh rather than lard; and
which, with generous feeding reaches its maximum weight before 15 months;
thus making a short and thrifty feeding animal. Moreover, breeders have
carefully developed the valuable parts of the animal and lessened develop-
ment of the parts less valuable in the market.

9 FT. VS. 16 FT. It's a long and interesting story of development from

DIGESTIVE the wild boar to the improved hog, 1911 model. The

MACHINERY total length of the digestive tract of the wild boar, for

instance, is 9 ft.; that of the best modern domesticated

hog, 16 ft. The 9 ft. were enough for one self-supporting animal. But the
16 ft. tract supports not only the hog, but helps support you and me also.
Automobiles are not the only "machines" which have to be up-to-date
models.

GOING Naturally prolific, in fact, leading all domestic animals in this
SOME respect, swine are easily a profitable investment for the wide-
awake farmer or stockman. Sows in different sections have been
known to average 16 in the litter, occasionally running even 20 or over.
But more desirable broods usually result from litters of 7 to 10 on the
average. As a rule pigs do well in big families rather than in very small
litters — they are lusty and thrifty, with plenty of appetite. On the very
low average of 6 to a litter, Coburn,* the great American authority, points
out that a single sow, estimating half of each litter as females, would have
produced at the end of four years, farrowing twice yearly, a total of 501
females and 501 males. Do hogs pay?

What the farmer wants is pork and money. So he looks to the com-
monsense usefulness of the hog. The animal to please him must not be
too delicate in body, too fine in bone, too short of carcass, or with legs
too long. It must have constitution first, and as far as possible, fair im-
munity from disease. Good looks count, if looks are thrown in for nothing.

Given such an animal the farmer will treat him right — like an individual,
in a good friendly manner, and not like a mere pork and lard machine.
Breeding stock, surroundings, climate and feed, each of these must be taken
into account as factors in the problem of success with swine. Of all farm
animals the hog is the most plastic in the hands of the commonsense
breeder.

THE "BACON" Now, as regards market type, lard hogs still hold first

CONTROVERSY place by an immense rrtajority. Perhaps this is largely

because it is so easy to make lard hogs with plenty

of corn. The bacon hog, with a requirement of healthy lean meat with
the fat firm, cannot come from a too-large ration of corn; and it is claimed
by some that the bacon price does not make up the difference in loss of
weight. Certainly the lard hog has no rival in the great belt where corn
is the easiest and cheapest thing to feed. The bacon breed on this continent
represents a Canadian industry as a general thing, but the bacon hog is
getting more attention now, and in time we may come to rival our neighbors
to the north-.

MARKET Prime heavy hogs 350 Ibs. to 500 Ibs.

CLASSES Butchers 180 Ibs. to 350 Ibs.

Packers 300 Ibs. to 500 Ibs. \ Lard.

Light 120 Ibs. to 220 Ibs.

Pigs 60 Ibs. to 125 Ibs.

*Coburns, "Swine in America."

188

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

Preference is for 150 Ibs. at 10 months. Just stop and think of this fact:
Your hogs are ready for market at the age of 10 months, or sometimes one
year, at a cost, pound for pound, of
just about one-half the feed for beef;
or compared with sheep, we find pound
for pound pork is produced at about
two-thirds the cost of best mutton.
The carcasses dress out at good per-
cents, 75% to 82% being the usual
average, making an average value per
carcass of $8.75. There is no waste
product, strictly speaking. The com-
mon expression of packers that they
"use all but the squeal" is literal truth.

BEST BREED In the United States, then, the breeds most popular are
those known as "large hogs":

Poland Chinas,
Chester Whites,
Duroc Jerseys,
Yorkshires,
Berkshires (Modern)

The small Yorkshires or Suffolks and the Essex are the small breeds.
The middle Yorkshires, Victorias and Cheshires are known as medium
breeds. But it must be understood that this classification is for tendency
only. Size may vary according to the section where the breed is raised,
food, care, etc. For instance, feed the smaller medium animals corn and
you develop to a weight for that individual animal which would put it in
the class with "large hogs." This then is simply a general statement for
average conditions.

The "Best" breed is a matter of individual liking. It isn't quite true
to say there is no best breed — as Coburn (remember, he is the American
authority) says there really is a "best breed for every man." That is, for
every man there is a breed with characteristics, marketable or ornamental,
making it best for his individual purposes. Complete statistics are not
procurable; but a comparison of the various herd-books for registration
shows the popularity of breeds to be about as indicated in the order of the
general table which follows:

BREED

Size

Color

Kind

Poland-China

Large

Black with dash of white on face

Berkshires
Chester Whites
Hampshi'-es (Am. Thin-Rine) .
(Large) Yorkshires
Tarn worth

Large
Large
Large
Large
Large

of jowl, feet, ankles and tail
Practically same as above
White entirely
Black with white belt
White entirely
Red Bronze or Sandy

Lard
Bacon or Lard
Bacon or Lard
Bacon
Bacon
Bacon

Duroc-Jerseys
Middle Yorkshires . . .
Victoria
Cheshire ....
Small Yorkshires (or Suffolks) . .
Essex

Large
Medium
Medium
Medium
Small
Small

Red, Bronze or Sandy
White entirely
White entirely
White entirely
White entirely
Black entirely

Lard
Lard
Lard
Lard
Lard
Lard

SWINE RAISING

189

HOG THRIFT Compared with other farm animals, hogs are an easy
investment. Compared with other farm animals their
rate of increase is enormous. Compared with other farm animals, they
make the most economical use of feed, pound for pound of product. Every
farmer should have at least a sow and pigs. If he owns cattle he should
have a proper number of swine to follow the cattle. Don't waste anything
the hogs will eat with profit. The hog is the poor man's friend — the rich
man's benefactor.

It seems pretty safe to say the hog has paid off more mortgages than
any animal on the farm — man included.

Piling up Profits

RIGHT CARE But of course the first and most important thing in rais-
ing hogs successfully is to have the right start — good
stock. Then with right stock, to give the right kind of care.

Hogs should not be too closely confined, except at the time of fattening.
They require exercise, as much as any animal, to keep in good condition,
i. e., able to make thrifty gains. One reason for the great gains on pasturage
of swine is the abundant exercise. Fall pigs are usually greatly handi-
capped in development by this lack of exercise. Another handicap to the
fall pig is water, for if the water is cold he will not use as much as is
necessary for best development. Without exercise pigs cannot be kept in
healthy condition — respiratory and digestive functions won't go on properly
without it. Give plenty of range.

In swine the lungs have practically all the work of respiration, the skin
not having any share in that function. It is true there is a sort of breathing
"tube" which runs down through the fore feet, very much as the hollow
bone in the wing feather of the fowl, which helps in breathing.

THE HOG PEN Pens should be arranged so they can be cleaned up
easily. Cement floors are good for the outer pens;

but for sleeping quarters well-matched boards make the best floor, thickly
covered with clean straw. Leave the pigs on a cement floor and they soon
become lame and crippled from enlarged joints.

The straw must be changed frequently, as for other animals. Be sure
all quarters are disinfected regularly. Whitewash as a precaution. On

190

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

posts or any place where the animals scratch themselves, fasten old clothes
saturated with Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, as it will rid the animals
of lice and keep the skins healed of any sores or wounds, and besides less
liable to mange. Use the Dip and Disinfectant liberally about all premises.
Better waste a little than later on lose a lot of hogs from epidemic. Hog
hygiene is an important subject. Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant will insure
this proper sanitation. See page 207 for completer statement.

Prize winning Yorkshire Sow

If any of the neighbors think that just anything is "good enough for a
hog," you can point to your clean and disinfected quarters and show how
these "dirty" animals respond to clean surroundings and good care. Keep
the hog pen clean, dry, warm but well ventilated, and you have settled a
big part of the risk in hog raising.

THE HOG TROUGH Another thing— hogs surely do relish clean feed.
A hog is omnivorous — eats anything. It's up to

you to see that what he gets is good and clean. And because he is omnivo-
rous, you must see that he gets regular change of food. Supplement the
grain ration, if you want quicker, more economical gains. Forage crops
are profitable. A small area if well planned for rotation of crops will grow
all the green feed hogs need.

For instance, corn, grain and clover in rotation make profitable hog
pasture. Of course if you haven't seasonable pasture you will have to supply
the deficiency in the hog trough — at two to four times the pasture cost.
Read every word on feeds and feeding of swine, page 52 to 55.

The pigs should be weaned at about eight weeks. Begin with the
heavy fat rascals first, and leave the less thrifty ones a while longer with
the old sow. This will give the smaller pigs a better start, and also prevent
the danger from suddenly drying off the sow. Slop should be the principal
feed; but avoid garbage which is fermenting, or for that matter any decom-

SWINE RAISING

191

Hog Trough made of Boiler Tank.
Practically indestructible

A covered Hog Trough with feed
spout in center

posing animal food. Such food is poisonous to any living animal. Don't
handicap the young stock at the start. Feed a plenty; not too much, but
push the little fellows along. If milk is to be had cheap.ly, put it in. Skim
milk is good. If sweet, so much the better. A little bran in the milk will
more than pay, as it will give the pigs that long sappy growth, put an extra
kink in the tail, and a sassy look in the eye. In changing from one kind of
feed to another don't change too suddenly. Especially go slow on new
corn. Hogs greatly relish it, and are pretty sure to eat more than is good
for them if not given careful management. Ever notice how most hog
epidemics come along about the time we begin feeding new corn?

REGULAR FEEDS Be regular. Animals are creatures of habit; and good
or bad decide how well they will thrive. Only regular
feeding pays. Read more about this in Feeds and Feeding.

GUARD HEALTH Guard health at every turn. Healthy hogs mean
healthy profits. Give plenty of pure water, not mere

hog wallow. Pigs need water in addition to the slop. At two months
estimate 12 Ibs. of water to 100 Ibs. live weight. They will require less as
they grow older, decreasing to about 4 Ibs. per 100 Ibs. live weight at, say,
eight months. It is hard to estimate the mineral contents of water, feeds,
etc., but these are of special importance for healthy hogs. Remember, we
have bred them away from rooting snouts, to modern short noses. So we
must supply the place of mineral earth by giving free access to ash (soft
coal), charcoal (charred corn-cob, Umh!), air-slaked lime, bone meal, etc.
Give a little salt, for they need it. The best plan is to mix up a little of
Conkey's veterinary salt according to the free formula given elsewhere in
this book. Keep this mixture before them all the time and they will help
themselves just as they need it. When it comes to salt, let each hog
measure his own dose. It is risky business putting salt in with the slop
or regular feed.

Individual Hog Trough

Hog Trough with Mud Platform. Bar can be
raised as Pigs grow larger

192

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

WHOSE HOG? Usually this is an appropriate question. Few hogs arc
free from lice — just take a look for yourself, back of the
ears, along the neck and under the breast; they are there by right of
squatter sovereignty. You may think it is your hog, but unless you get
up and act for the protection of your property, the lice will keep on sucking
and multiplying, and it will be nobody's hog before long. A louse is always
unprofitable, wherever you find it. The louse isn't the only blood-sucker
and robber. While the louse is working on the outside, there are hosts of
other parasite robbers busily alive on the inside, seeing which can make
most wages at the trade. You will find a good collection of pictures of
these fellows in the rogue's gallery, page 204. You can judge for yourself
which is the handsomest — Pin Worm, Thread Worm, Round Worm, Kidney
Worm, Tape Worm, Trichina Worm, etc., etc. But here is one fact that

Prize winning Duroc Jersey Boar

covers them all, along with all external parasites — they cause nine-tenths
of all swine losses, all unthriftiness, all succumbing to cholera, pneumonia,
and such dreaded plagues.

WHAT'S TO Fortunately, this is an easy question to answer. While
BE DONE? lice and worms are responsible for most of the losses in
swine raising, these two classes of parasites can be positively eliminated
from the livestock business with a little commonsense attention. But, one
at a time, please:

LICE You will see the nits in all stages of incubation matted on hairs
back of the ears, on neck, breast, etc. If you haven't a dipping tank
or wallowing vat, go after the lice with a spray pump, or a sprinkling can;
or even a scrub broom, dipped in Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant
11 — to a pail of water. Go over every part of the body; for the lice will
try to hide away; and if you leave any part untouched, they will multiply
rapidly and soon be swarming again over all the animal's body. With the

SWINE RAISING 193

same mixture of Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant go over the whole hog
house, clean up the pens, burn the infested bedding, and spray thoroughly
with the Dip and Disinfectant, 1 part to 60 parts water. Put in fresh
bedding and put the clean hogs back in these quarters. In ten days repeat
the whole performance, to insure getting all the nits that hatch in the
meantime. Now you have a clean vermin-free hog-pen. Keep things clean,
and don't let any new specimen join the herd without getting a course of
the Dip treatment; otherwise you may have all the work to do over. Now
fix up a scratching or rubbing post, with an old cloth on it, and keep this
mop saturated with the Dip; so the hogs can attend to their own future
treatment. Every once in a while look each animal over so as to be safe,
and at the first sign of lice commence the above vigorous treatment.

A Fine Type of Poland-China Hog

In summer the hog vat or wallowing vat will be most convenient. A
14-inch depth will make a nice bath for the hogs; with a little of Nox-i-cide
Dip and Disinfectant on the surface; this will settle the lice problem, keep
the skin healthy and in the pink of condition. 'When the bath is fresh, the
hogs will drink a little of it; which is excellent treatment for internal
parasites. Such treatment with Conkey's Dip and Disinfectant means no
lice, no skin disease, fewer internal parasites; and goes a long way toward
insuring the herd against epidemic diseases, including the dreaded cholera.

WORMS, WORMS, If the worms don't like your hog, that is, don't find

WORMS! him comfortable, they will move. You can serve

them with notice to leave premises by a vermifuge

dose of Conkey's Stock Tonic, put in the regular feed for the hog. The
hog will like Stock Tonic treatment, and will thrive on it, because it is an
appetizer and invigorator. He will eat more; and as Stock Tonic insures
digestion, he will get more food value put of the rations and will gain
more. Meanwhile the vermifuge properties in the Stock Tonic will serve
notice on the worms, and they will come away by hundreds. After that

194

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

your hog will get the benefit of all food fed, and you and the hog will both
reap a profit. Stop feeding worms.

WINTER AND Your hogs need special protection, winter and summer,
SUMMER for their coats are thin, and the scattered hairs hardly

save them from burning heat or piercing cold. They are
the most sensitive of all animals to cold. How they will "crowd up" the
first chilly night — maybe suffocating or trampling some of their number
and certainly exposing all to cold or pneumonia by getting overheated ana
then suddenly chilled.

HOW TROUBLE Don't fear to keep things too clean. It is a thing that
STARTS can't be done, you can tell your easy-going neighbor.

One careless man in the community can start an epi-
demic that will clean out profits on a dozen different farms. Don't stand

Individual Hog Cots for Brood Sows

in doubt, but up with the can of Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant,
pour a few tablespoonfuls into a bucket of water for diluting, and disinfect
everything as a preventive. It's safe to be sure. Never trust another man's
hogs. Take it for granted every new animal may be an infected one, and
dip and disinfect accordingly. This is the only safe way against terrible
and sudden losses. See page 218 for more about Dip and Disinfectant.

MAKE SURE Great precaution should always be taken with the new
boar introduced to the herd. Most successful swine
husbandmen make a practice of actually quarantining a new boar for a
few weeks before making use of him — no matter what the evident good
health of the animal, or what the guarantee regarding his undiseased
condition. If he has been shipped in, traveling in a car, there is danger
of infection en route from various sources. Make sure on your own
account. Use Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant according to direc-
tions with every new animal.

SWINE RAISING 195

FARROWING If there is any one particular time when it pays to treat
swine right that time is at the farrowing. It pays to give
this extra necessary attention, and let the little fellows have the right start.
Separate the brood sows, so that they will be free from disturbance. Sep-
arate pens in the hog house will do; but most up-to-date stockmen favor
individual hog cots, which have the advantage of all possible safety and
give each sow and litter better chance to; thrive. Then they can be moved
easily — a great advantage for cleanliness, less risk from contagion, etc.
Besides, movable cots make it possible to regulate the amount of exercise
for each hog family; as the cots can be moved near or far from the feeding
trough to suit conditions. You may have your, own notions of hog archi-
tecture; but there is nothing better in practice than the movable, sanitary,
individual hog cots pictured. No. 1 has upright sides with shed roof.
No. 2 has gable sides and is on skids, making it easy to move. No. 1 is
about the latest in hog bungalows, and would meet the ideals of a breeder
of ultra fastidious notions. Notice the scantling around the sides, a few
inches up from the bottom, which makes a safe refuge for the pigs when that
mountain of sow flesh heaves itself.

Each cot should be thoroughly and newly disinfected in preparation for
the farrowing. If possible it should be moved to new fresh ground; if not,
the old ground should be limed and freshly turned, then covered with nice
clean straw — not too deep or the pigs may get lost and smother; not too
long straw, as there is danger of entangling. Oat-straw or hay, and leaves,
entirely free from strangling dust, will be excellent. Should the mother
sow be dangerously heavy or clumsy, better take the piglets out of the
mother's pen, and only give them back to her for nursing. They will do
nicely in a chaff-lined box or barrel for a few days until better able to
rough it. Trouble? Sure it is — but there is a certain amount of trouble
necessary sometimes to save big losses. The danger from the old sow's
eating her pigs can be overcome by proper feeding. Salt pork fed the old
sow has usually prevented this trouble. Some breeders sponge the little pigs
over with mucilage, aloes and asafetida. The best way is to save the
animal from this depraved appetite by proper feeding, keeping the bowels
open by means of bran, linseed meal, roots, etc., and by sufficient exercise.
This is another point in favor of mixing Conkey's Stock Tonic with the
feed for the brood sow; it will not only be a tonic and alterative, but will
keep the bowels open and prevent abnormal craving.

THE BOAR Whether your stock is common or well bred, you cannot
get the best results unless yoi> have good pure bred males.

Put aside all hesitancy on account of cost. You won't see the first
cost after you have one well bred litter. But if you can't afford the best
animal procurable in your parts for sire, combine with other farmers in-
the same fix, in your neighborhood, and own a really fine boar in common,.
This is plain hog sense — not Socialism. Even very ordinary stock, if you ;
happen to have that kind, can be graded up quickly by the use of a strictly: '.'
high-grade boar. At the lowest estimate every pig sired by a pure bred !

196 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

male is worth $1.00 more than if sired by a scrub. On this basis you can
estimate your high grade animal earning in the first fall — with at least
twenty services, averaging six pigs to the litter — $120. This represents
the lowest possible estimate of the improvement to your original stock.

Keep in mind that a good hog will respond to good treatment, because
he is bred for that. The good hog will be ready for market in three-fourths
the time it takes to grow and fatten the scrub. Count this saving, when
you go to purchase a high-grade boar.

Respect good ancestors, but select your boar for good individual qualities
— not alone for his excellent breed. You use him as an individual, and he
will transmit his individual qualities, sporting back to good and bad qualities
of his dam and sire. In the individual, then, look for masculinity, strong,
virile characteristics; and in addition make doubly sure that this most
important, hardest worked member of your herd has natural constitution
and bodily vigor. Avoid coarseness, but get strength. You can judge a
good deal by general form and carriage.

Sometimes, however, a very good-seeming individual proves unfit as a
sire. The first trial is the test. But if, after due experiment, the animal
proves unfit, there is nothing left but to finish him for the butcher, and get
a better boar. Don't foist him on any other stockman, for time is valuable
to every man in this business. Be square.

One important consideration is disposition. Good manners are profit-
able, even in hogs. Many boars are extremely ugly-natured, fighting all the
time. Sometimes this fault is due to handling in the part of the attendant
or owner. But get rid of the quarrelsome boar; he's a mighty unsatisfac-
tory animal to have around. On the other hand, a certain amount of fret-
iulness, restiveness, etc., is to be expected from the vigorous animal in
breeding season. He should be given special attention. Note what is said
about feeds and feeding, page 54. Not properly managed at this time, he
may be ruined in disposition and become unmanageable.

A boar can hardly reach maturity before twelve months; and as a sire,
should be considered in his prime from one to five years old. Do not use
him, except for limited purposes of exercise and test, before one year old,
or he will be injured in growth and cannot be counted on for future vigor-
ous off-spring. Patience is necessary sometimes in inducing the animal
to perform his first service. Only one service should be allowed to a sow,
as more will increase neither the number nor the vigor of the brood,
opinions to the contrary notwithstanding.

THE SOW In the same way, the sow should not be used before she has
a full year's growth. Make haste slowly, if you want useful-
ness, strong pigs and full litters. Feed the brood sow throughout the 112
days' gestation period with a good balanced ration to provide bone and fat
forming material for her little ones. Read page 54 on feeds and feeding.
Remember that any food having some element out of proportion to the
natural needs of the animal body will result in (1) waste of that surplus
element, of (2) in over development of that part of the body, with corre-
sponding deficiency in another. The food the sow gets before farrowing
determines the character of her pigs. Food high in ash will make the little
ones all frame and weak in flesh. Food high in fat and low in ash — chances
are the pigs will be over fat with no frame to support them, and what frame
they have, built at the expense of the sow's bone material; so that her
skeleton will be "soft" and liable to easy fracture.

Read carefully pages 52-55 on feeds and feeding and FEED A BAL-
ANCED RATION,

SWINE RAISING 197

Remember your brood sows especially need exercise. In winter it will
be hard to make them take this through the snow. So instead of letting
your hogs feed from the troughs and then immediately return to their
comfortable beds, keep them on their feet by a new system entirely; make
paths in the lot so they can easily travel through the snow, and then
scatter their food in the paths. They will spend considerable time col-
lecting it, and on account of the exercise and pure air, tend to much heartier
feeding.

Be good to the good sow. When she proves herself a good mother
with nice litters of healthy offspring, and gives them plenty of nourishment
the first week — for on this right start so much of their future profitable
development will depend — when she does this, get out your memorandum
book and pencil and count up what she is worth to you, according to
whether she farrows once or twice yearly. When you see it all down in
your own figures, black and white, then you'll vote her a little life insurance
and care for her the best you know how. Well cared for in good comfort-
able, disinfected quarters (see page 190 on Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and
Disinfectant); free from lice (see pages 192 and 200, also pages 218 and 219
on Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant); thriving and well-fed (see pages 52
to 55, also pages 193 and 207 on Conkey's Stock Tonic) ; she will keep up
her constitutional vigor maybe ten years or more, and will represent a small
fortune for an appreciative owner.

198 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

Common Diseases of Swine

ABORTION This is rarely a contagious disease with sows, but moldy, fer-
mented foods have been known to cause it. Careful feeding
with wholesome food is a preventive. Also avoid salting the slop and in
every case leave the salt where the sows can help themselves as they want
it. This is the only safe way to insure their getting what they need and not
too much.

BARRENNESS Get the sow in healthy condition by the use of Stock
Tonic in the regular feed. This is tonic, alterative treat-
ment. Do not give any other medicine but once a day for 2 or 3 weeks
before breeding her flush out the vagina with a gallon of tepid water, in
which is dissolved 1 dram of permanganate of potash. Use a rubber tube
and funnel for this operation. Mate the sow about 6 or 7 hours after
flushing.

CANKER — Young pigs are the worst sufferers from this trouble,

SORE MOUTH which usually comes in winter. First symptoms are loss
of appetite and running saliva at the mouth. The gums
are sore, sometimes so badly affected that the teeth drop out. The jaws
swell, crack and scabs form on mouth and snout. If the disease spreads,
it affects the nasal cavities and causes "snuffles." If it spreads to the stom-
ach and intestines it sets up a very foul diarrhea. The animals may die in
one week or linger for four or five weeks.

Treatment is pretty sure when followed as directed: first separate the
sick animals, clean up and disinfect thoroughly with a solution
of Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, 1 teaspoonful to a pint of water. With
a solution of half this strength swab out the mouth, which will get rid of the
patches of dead and diseased tissue. Instead of swabbing, you can cluck
the head into a pail of water containing l/2 cupful Nox-i-cide Dip and Disin-
fectant. If the mouth is very sore treat in addition with Conkey's Pain
Lotion, spraying or swabbing. Repeat above treatment daily until cured.

CATARRHAL RHINITIS — The general symptoms are those of cold,
ACUTE CHORYZA with sensitiveness to cold. Sometimes chills

are a symptom, with inflammation of the

eyes and running at the nose. Usually there is no appetite and the animal
is very constipated. The running at the nose changes later to a thick,
clogging substance, making breathing difficult, and the animal snuffles.
This disease is also called "snuffles," being one of three totally different
disorders which are given that popular name. Usually the attack is over in
a week or two, but if neglected the animal may fall victim to some disease,
such as bronchitis, pneumonia, catarrh, etc.

Treatment Put the animal on sick diet and see that it has warm, clean,
well lighted quarters. If possible get it into the sunlight part
of the time. Give a purge, such as 1 to 2 oz. Epsom salts. Then mix with
the feed Conkey's Stock Tonic, which will tone and invigorate the system,
and at the same time keep the bowels from clogging. Prepare the milk or
slop for sick hogs with extra care and warm slightly. For the nasal dis-
charge, also for the sore throat, etc., a tablespoonful of Conkey's Nox-i-cide
Dip and Disinfectant to a gallon of pure, clean water will be found very

DISEASES OF SWINE 199

helpful, and given twice a day, or put where the hog can help himself any-
time. If you have a closed shed for the hog try burning tar as a fumigant,
as this will help to clear the nasal passages.

CHOLERA We may as well call Hog Cholera and Swine Plague one and
the same disease. In Hog Cholera it is the intestines that
show most affection, and in Swine Plague the lungs. But the general
symptoms are very similar and the directions for controlling Hog Cholera
serve also for Swine Plague. In a case where Hog Cholera is suspected one
of the dead animals should be cut open and if red spots and raised ulcers
are found on the lining of the intestines, especially of the large intestines,
the case is true cholera. You cannot always tell by general symptoms,
although in acute cases the hog has fever, is dull, wants to lie down con-
stantly, shows gluey, sticky discharges of the eyes, with a watery diarrhea.
Death comes quickly, usually in a few days. All discharges of the sick animal
are highly infectious, especially the urine, although the germ itself is so
small, it has never been seen by the most powerful microscopes. As we
have said, all discharges are infectious and will spread the disease to other
animals, or pollute the ground so that it cannot be safely used for three or
four months. The dead body is also infectious and should be burned or
buried in quick lime. If simply buried it may be drained by the next rain-
storm and the deadly germs will pollute the first stream and carry the
plague. Tarring and feathering is too good for the man who simply dumps
his dead hog in a hole, or carts it off to the woods. He is an anarchist and
is waving a bloody flag over every farmer and stockman in the community.

Treatment You can control Hog Cholera by the following treatment: In
the first place, throughout the hog quarters use Conkey's
Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, which is a perfect germicide. Occasionally
mix a little with the slop feed, one pint to one quart to a barrel of slop is
the right proportion. Keep all troughs, utensils, etc., clean, using Nox-i-
cide Dip and Disinfectant in the wash water. Provide warm dry sleeping
quarters. See that all water is pure. Improper feeding, unsanitary condi-
tion of the hog lot, damp or cold sleeping quarters, dirty drinking and
feeding utensils, will predispose the herd to this disease, simply by lower-
ing the general vitality so that they fall easy victims. On the other hand,
Conkey's Stock Tonic in the feed will build up constitutional vigor and the
Stock Tonic is a fortifying tonic. It will keep the organs and blood in
condition, hence give the animal resisting power. Keep the herd away
from the public road and have your hog lot on a part of the farm where
men or animals from other farms will not pass through it. All new animals,
or stock exhibited at shows, lairs, etc., should be quarantined away from
the herd for at least one month, so as to make sure there is no infection.

Hogs that have recovered from Hog Cholera are immune. From such
hogs it is possible to prepare a serum for innoculating other hogs as a
preventive of this disease. This work is under government supervision
and the serum can be obtained on application to the nearest experiment
station. Usually the first treatment when applied to the whole herd immedi-
ately on the outbreak of Hog Cholera will make the exposed animals per-
manently immune. If not exposed for some weeks, the immunity may,
and usually does, disappear. According to the method of innoculation,
the hog treated will thus be immune from Hog Cholera (1) for at least
several weeks, or (2) permanently.

200 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

Warning Did you ever hear from anyone who could sell you a sure
Hog Cholera Medicine? That man is not working in the
spirit of either science or law. It is actually proved that no medicine can
positively attack the germs of Hog Cholera or Swine Plague. Our own
Stock Vigor cannot itself kill the germ of Hog Cholera, but it will correct
the digestive trouble and fortify the animal to resist the disease. No
remedy on the market can truthfully make a stronger claim. Fortunately
most cases of Hog Cholera are not true cholera. Conkey's Stock Tonic
is the proper remedy for any of the common outbreaks of digestive dis-
turbances usually called Cholera. If you fear that the case is true Hog
Cholera make a postmortem examination of the first hog to die and if the
button-like ulcers are found in the intestines, at once notify the proper
authorities, for no so-called Cholera-cure will help you.

Use Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant freely, and Conkey's
Stock Tonic in doses as directed on packages, mixed with the regular feed.

COTTONSEED Cotton meal is fine for hogs, but if given in a heavier
POISONING ration than l/^ of a pound a day to 50 pounds live-
weight, there is pretty sure to be trouble from cotton-
seed poisoning. The animal will show signs of "thumping" (see Thumps),
that is spasmodic jerking of the whole body. If the owner takes warning
and cuts off the cottonseed there is no further trouble. But neglect will
usually end in death from suffocation in 4 to 10 weeks.

INDIGESTION This may come h'om worms, or from a sudden change in
quantity or manner of feeding, or from irregularity in

feeding, or from wrong kinds of feed, especially too much rich food. The
symptoms are loss of appetite, bloating, uneasiness, sometimes cramps,
scouring, often coughing and thumping or jerking of the body. Often
there is a depraved appetite, the hogs eating such substances as old plaster,
rotted boards, stone, dirt, etc. Often they will squeal desperately for food
but will not touch it when offered. Young pigs will often show no loss of
appetite but will fail to thrive in spite of a plentiful ration.

Treatment Look for the cause of trouble in the system of feeding. If
too rich or too much food, or too sudden a change, correct the
trouble. Then mix with the feed Conkey's Stock Tonic according to direc-
tions. This is tonic treatment and will bring the hogs around to thriving
condition. It will also get rid of worms if worms are the cause of the trouble
In the case of young pigs which are stunted, change from hard to soft feed.

LICE Lice do not come from filth,
but they stay where filth is.
Lice come from the louse-eggs which
you often see fastened with a gummy
substance to the bristles of the hog —
sometimes as many as five or six
eggs on a single hair. Look for them
back of the ears, on the neck, breast,
etc., especially in the spring, and it is
well to keep a sharp lookout for them
all through summer. It will not pay
to spend good time and care and feed Hog louse and eggs attached to bristle
on raising hog lice, and it is entirely
unnecessary to put up with them as treatment is very effective as follows:

DISEASES OF SWINE 201

Treatment Dip, scrub or spray with Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Dis-
infectant according to directions on package and also as ad-
vised page 193 on Swine. Repeat the operation in a week or ten days in
order to kill every nit. These nits hatch out after the first dressing and
unless you go after them lice will soon be swarming over your hogs once
more. Nor is this all. Go over every part of the hog quarters and clean up
and disinfect thoroughly with the Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, using
a spray pump or sprinkling can. Clean up and whitewash the sleeping
places, pens and houses. Let no new animal join the herd until thoroughly
examined and treated for lice. With clean hogs, clean quarters and regular
use of Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant you can keep out of the lice problem.

KIDNEY WORMS This worm is
often blamed

for symptoms of paralysis, but there
is no proof. However, it does enough
mischief otherwise, in time completely

destroying the substance of the kid- Kidney worm

ney. Not much is known of the kid-
ney worm, although it is very large, the female measuring 3 ft. in some
cases, but usually much less. The male is about 12 inches long. The egg
is passed in the urine, and its presence is the only sure proof of the worm,
except post mortem examination. No medicine will reach kidney worms,
hence there is no treatment.

MANGE This is a common itching skin disease of swine, caused by
a parasite which buries itself below the surface, irritating the
skin and forming blotches and pimples, usually very much inflamed and
filled with pus. These form into crusts and scabs, usually appearing first
about the eyes and ears, but quickly spreading down the neck to the lower
part of the body. Sometimes scabs completely cover the body. Itching is
intense and young pigs often die from the irritation; in any case there is
great loss of flesh. This disease is contagious and will spread to the whole
pen or yard. The animals will rub and scratch themselves on posts and
corners, thus helping to spread the infection.

Treatment The hogs not affected should be separated from the others
and the affected animals and the old quarters should be put
through a thorough course of Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant
treatment. Dipping in a solution of Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant as
directed is the simplest treatment, but if the weather is cold or the herd is
small the best plan is to scrub each animal, using an old broom dipped in
the solution according to directions. In a week or ten days repeat the treat-
ment. Where the herd is fairly large a spray pump will be found convenient
for treatment. With the same solution of Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant
go over the quarters thoroughly. Clean up thoroughly and whitewash.
This will put the infected quarters in good condition. Saturate old clothes
with Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant, using double strength, and fasten
these to the rubbing posts or scratching corners, so that when the pigs
scratch themselves they will heal instead of irritating the part.

- There is another kind of mange not commonly understood. The para-
site in this case attacks the hair follicles so that we call this "follicular
mange." The parasites work deep down into the roots of the bristles so
that it is almost impossible to reach them with an ordinary skin application.
A practical plan is to market such affected animals before they lose market
condition. The dip treatment above is the only possible treatment for this

202 CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

kind of mange, but it is necessary to make many and frequent applications
of the Dip and Disinfectant to make sure of getting the liquid well down
into the open pustules or sores.

MILK FEVER This is not so common with sows as with cows. The
best advice is to prevent all danger of milk fever by

feeding lightly just before and after farrowing, using Conkey's Stock Tonic
with the feed to keep the bowels open. Also give plenty of exercise before
farrowing.

PARALYSIS — The animal first loses control of its hind legs and

LOSS OF POWER has to drag its body along on the front feet only.

But the paralysis steadily creeps over the whole body.

The animal feeds about as usual and seems to feel otherwise well, and
does not lose condition until the last stages of the disease. It used to be
thought that this trouble came from kidney worms but of this there is no
proof. The probable cause is wrong feeding, especially too heavy feeding
of corn.

Treatment Instead of the common practice of firing, sinking a red-hot
iron % inch in diameter about 2 inches deep, so as to get past
the fat, into actual muscle, we advise simple, humane treatment with Con-
key's Absorbent used as a counter irritant, rubbed briskly along the spine
over the whole loin. In addition correct the feed, cutting off all corn and
giving Conkey's Stock Tonic in the feed, which should be light and rather
laxative. Stock Tonic will correct the digestion and the disturbed circula-
tion. In addition, if constipation is a bad symptom, give an injection of soap
or oil with warm water, using a rubber tube and funnel, as elsewhere
described,,

RICKETTS This usually shows in your pigs as stunted growth, lameness
and large joints, especially swelling of the hock and pastern.
Sometimes these enlargements appear on the nasal and maxillary bones,
causing hard breathing and what is called "bull" nose and "snuffles." The
pigs continue to get lean, grow weaker and weaker and are easy marks for
such diseases as pneumonia or enteritis.

Treatment The whole trouble is with the bones, due to wrong feed or
bad digestion of food. There is not enough lime in the food
to make the bony skeleton hard and solid. Starch foods increase the trouble
but good rich food high in nitrogen is especially needed. Feed middlings
and bran, bone meal, and milk with lime water added. Mix with this feed
Conkey's Stock Tonic, according to directions. Clean up the quarters, let in
sunlight and fresh air, and force the animals to exercise.

SCOURS Scouring or diarrhea in pigs shows fault with the feed. The
feed may be too much or too rich, but usually the fault is with
the quality of the food. For instance, mouldy feed, or fermented slop very
often causes diarrhea. Or, feeding from troughs that are not kept sweet
and clean may cause scours.

Treatment First find the cause of the trouble, examining feed and the

feed troughs. Use Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip and Disinfectant

and thoroughly clean out and disinfect all feeding utensils, which will kill

the germs. Watch the feed carefully, making sure it is sweet and clean and

DISEASES OF SWINE 203

for a time put the pigs on milk, adding one ounce of lime water to each
quart. Then gradually add middlings, then cornmeal and flaxseed meal.

THUMPS This is a spasmodic action of the diaphram in young pigs and
is most common with fat and thriving porkers. Sometimes it
starts suddenly after heavy eating, but worms or any digestive disorder may
cause it. There is spasmodic, violent jerking of the body, similar to hic-
coughs in human beings. The animal takes little or no food or exercise and
loses condition. Sometimes it is permanently stunted.

Treatment The one treatment is to restore good digestive order. This
means mixing Conkey's Stock Tonic in the feed, or slop, 1
tablespoon to every 8 hogs. If worms are the cause, Conkey's Worm Rem-
edy will get rid of them. Stop feeding corn and feed instead light slop mixed
with milk — for instance, middlings, ground oats, barley meal, bran, flaxseed
meal. As they improve, add a little corn meal and 10 per cent, digester
tankage. After complete recovery see that a veterinary salt is kept in a dry
place where the hogs can help themselves to it any time. Make this veteri-
nary salt as follows: Common barrel salt, 45 Ibs., Stock Vigor, 5 Ibs., mix
thoroughly. Where indigestion is the cause be sure to give less food, more
charcoal, or wood ashes and more daily exercise. Use Conkey's Stock
Tonic for treatment as it will help digestion, tone up the organs and gradu-
ally the hog can be put back on the heavy fattening ration.

TUBERCULOSIS Hogs usually become affected with tuberculosis from
following infected cattle or from being fed skim milk

which is infected. Next to cattle, swine are the most liable to tuberculosis,
probably because they are pushed hard for production, just as dairy cattle
are, and the constitution is weakened. Do not let your hogs follow
cattle that have not been tuberculin tested, and use no creamery by-products
unless they are positively sterilized. Young stock, and stock not full of
natural vigor, are most liable to get the disease. Sometimes the disease
does not show for a considerable time. Usually there is a cough, especially
after drinking or exercise and most often in the morning. There is quick
breathing and the glands of the neck enlarge, with general digestive dis-
turbance and wasting away.

Treatment Treatment is not practical on account of the danger of spread-
ing infection. But prevention is the real wisdom, that is: Keep
your stock vigorous and well, able to ward off disease in general. Provide
plenty of fresh air in barn or stable; use plenty of Conkey's Nox-i-cide Dip
and Disinfectant around the hog quarters, put a little in the swill feed
occasionally, about a pint to a quart per barrel. Build up constitutional
vigor with occasional use of the Stock Tonic whenever the animals show any
sign of sickness. During fattening period it would pay to use Stock Tonic
regularly to insure proper digestion. A hog that's a hog will eat more than
it can digest naturally; that is why hogs under the strain of fattening for
the market should always be given Conkey's Stock Tonic to insure full use
of the liberal feed given. Remember also that breeding animals are under
severe strains, hence are liable to tuberculosis infection. Stock Tonic is just
the tonic and alterative needed by breeding animals.

WORM Young growing pigs are sometimes affected with lung

BRONCHITIS worms. The first signs of trouble are violent fits of

coughing, which may keep up for weeks. The animal

loses growth, in fact, often becomes permanently stunted. Inflammation

204

CONKEY'S STOCK BOOK

of the bronchial tubes is noticed and if one of the worst affected animals is
killed and the bronchial tube is opened lengthwise you will find a great
number of small round thread worms about 1 inch long.

Treatment This is a hard disease to treat because it is hard to get a
vermifuge into the head chambers. A teaspoonful of turpentine
in the slop taken three times a day has so far given best results, numbing
the worms so that it is easier to dislodge them by coughing. But prevention
is the best advice. Take care not to buy any young pigs affected with
worms and keep the young stock from running on low marshy ground
and drinking from pools in suspected pastures. Treat all affected animals
with Conkey's Stock Tonic mixed with the regular feed, and give occasional
doses to all animals as a general preventive for it is easier to keep the worms
from developing than it is to get them out after they get into the bronchial
tube.

Intestinal worm of the hog
(strongylus dentatus)

Round worm. Most common internal
parasite of the hog

WORMS Worms, worms, worms! Few hog owners realize the number

and kind that afflict swine, breaking down constitutional vigor
and cutting down profits. Just about half the diseases of swine are due
to worms, worms, worms. Kidney Worms, Pin Worms (in the rectum)
Long Thread Worms (in large intestine), Round Worms (in intestines),
Thornheaded Worms (in intestines), Strongylus Dentatus (in the intestines),

Hog trichina— 1. Male. 2. Female and young.

3. Young trichina worms encysted in

muscle fibre.

Hog tapeworm (adult)

Spiroptera Strongyline and Sclerostotum Dentatum (in the intestines), are a
few only of these disgusting and damaging parasites. There is no sense in
putting up with their presence, as all but the Kidney Worm can be success-
fully treated with Conkey's Worm Remedy where active treatment must
be resorted to. In general, tonic treatment with Conkey's Stock Tonic
mixed with the regular food will be all that is necessary as the Stock Tonic
includes vermifuge properties. Get after the worms, the little ones, the
big ones, the so-called "harmless" and those known to be positively danger-
ous. Get after them all, for all of them are profit sappers. Don't pay high
prices for feed and let it go simply to feeding worms. Read carefully page
193 on these parasites.

USEFUL TABLES

205

Common Measures

60 drops equal 1 teaspoonful.
4 teaspoonfuls equal 1 tablespoonful.
8 teaspoonfuls equal 1 ounce.
4 ounces equal 1 gill.
4 gills equal 1 pint.

2 pjnts equal 1 quart.

4 quarts equal i gallon.

3 gallons (about) equal 1 pailful.

To Make a 1% Solution
(1 Part to 1OO)

Yt teaspoonful to 1 tumbler of water.

1 teaspoonful to 1 pint of water.
10 teaspoonfuls to 1 gallon of water.
Yt tumbler to 1 pail of water.

1 tumbler to 6 gallons of water.

1 pint to 12 gallons of water.

Colt, 1 month to 5 months —

" 5 " " 9 "
" 9 " "18 "
" 18 " " 3 years

Doses

1*8 adult dose —

X

Calf, 1 month to 3 months
" 3 " "6 "
" 6 " "1 year
" 1 " "2 "

For horses, after 3rd year give full dose; for cattle, full dose after 2nd year. Full dose is
usually the same for horses as for cattle; except in case of solids, when for cattle it is well to
increase the dose 1A. Full grown sheep at 2 years, takes about V* dose for horse or cattle. Full
grown pig at 18 months, takes about 1A dose for horse or cattle.

Gestation Table

Time
of Service

if

Cows 283
Days

%

i-l M

II
w

IN

it

Q

Time
of Service

*.

.£

1°

Cows 283
Days

&

i— I 03
m >*>

l&

w

cvi

s «

at £>

I3

Jam

lary 1
6

Dt

c. 6
11

Oct. 10

" 15

May 30
June 4

April 22
Vl 27

July 5
f* 10

*V£

April 13
15 18

Dec. 1
6

Oct. 24

" 29

11

16

" 20

9

May 2

" IS

" 19

" 23

" 11

Nov. 3

16

21

" 25

14

7

" 20

" 24

" 28

" 16

" 8

21

26

" 30

19

12

" 25

" 29

May 3

" 21

" 13

26

31

Nov. 4

24

17

" 30

July 4

" 8

" 26

" 18

Feb

31

' io5

Ja

n. 5
10
15

" 9
" 14

" 19

Ju

29

y 4
9

Ju

22
27
ne 1

Auj

*-J

14

*' 9

" 14
" 19

" 13

" 18
" 23

" 31
Jan. 5

" 10

" 23
" 28
Dec. 3

15

20

" 24

14

6

19

" 24

" 28

" 15

" 8

20

25

" 29

19

11

24

" 29

June 2

" 20

" 13

25

30

Dec. 4

24

16

29

Aug. 3

" 7

" 25

" 18

Mar

h 2

Fe

b. 4

" 9

29

21

Sep

. 3

" 8

" 12

" 30

" 23

7

9

" 14

A

g- 3

26

8

" 13

" 17

Feb. 4

" 28

12

14

" 19

8

Ju

y 1

13

" 18

" 22

" 9

Jan. 2

17

19

" 24

13

* 6

18

" 23

" 27

" 14

" 7

22

24

" 29

18

11

23

" 28

July 2

" 19

" 12

27

M

r. 1

Jan. 3

23

16

28

Sept. 2

" 7

" 24

" 17

Apr

1 1

6

' 8

28

21

Oct

oberS

* 7

" 12

Mar. 1

" 22

6

11

' 13

S€

pt. 2

26

8

" 12

" 17

" 6

" 27

11

16

' 18

^ 7

31

13

" 17

" 22

" 11

Feb. 1

16

21

' 23

12

A

g. 5

18

" 22

" 27

" 16

6

21

26

' 28

17

10

23

" 27

Aug. 1

" 21

" 11

26

31

Feb. 2

22

15

28

Oct. 2

" 6

" 26

" 16

May

1
6

A

ril 5
10

" 7
" 12

Oc

27
t. 2

20
25

Nov

2

7

7

" 12

" 11
" 16

" 31
April 5

" 21
" 26

11

15

" 17

7

30

12

" 17

" 21

10

Mar. 3

16

20

" 22

12

Se

pt. 4

17

" 22

" 26

" 15

" 8

21

25

" 27

17

* 9

22

" 27

" 31

" 20

" 13

26

30

Mar. 4

22

14

27

Nov. 1

Sept. 5

" 25

" 18

31

M

y 5

" 9

27

19

Dec

2

" 6

* 10

" 30

" 23

Jun

5

10

" 14

N

v. 1

24!

7

" 11

" 15

May 5

" 28

10

15

" 19

6

29 1

12

" 16

" 20

" 10

April 2

15

20

" 24

11

Oc

t. 4

17

" 21

" 25

" 15

K 7

20

25

" 29

16

9 "22

" 26

" 30

" 20

" 12

25

30

April 3

21

14

27

Dec. 1

Oct. 5

" 25

" 17

30

June 4

15 8

26

19

31

5

9

" 29

" 21

Conkey's Stock Remedies

Every Conkey Remedy MUST
SATISFY YOU or MONEY BACK

Conkey's Stock Tonic— For Cows, Calves, Horses, Sheep and Swine. Formerly

called Stock Vigor. Vigor means Profit! Prices, 25 Ib. pail, $3.50: 12

Ib. pail, $2.00; 5 Ib. pkg., $1.00; 2# Ib., 50c; 1 Ib., 25c.

Conkey's Worm Remedy — A prompt and powerful remedy for stock badly in-
fected. Price 50c.
Conkey's Horse Tonic — A stimulating medicine for debilitated and exhausted

conditions. Put out especially for fine bred horses. Price $1.00. In

West and Canada, $1.25.
Conkey's Heave Remedy — Corrects digestive disturbance as well as nervous

derangement. Tones organs back to health. Price $1.00.
Conkey's Colic Remedy — A life saver and should be on hand for emergency.

Prices 50c and $1.00.

Conkey's Fistula and Poll Evil Remedy— Effective and very humane. Price $2.00.
Conkey's Eye Remedy — For sore, inflamed or weak eyes. Price 50c.
Conkey's Distemper and Cough Remedy — For all cases of cough, cold, chill

and fever, epizootic, distemper or strangles, pink eye, etc. 50c and $1.
Conkey's Healing Powder — A wonderful gall cure. For chafes, sores, etc. A

perfect dry dressing (antiseptic) for surgical cases. Prices 25c and 50c.
Conkey's Gall Salve — A healing ointment for sores, cuts, harness and saddle

galls, chafes, etc. Prices 25c and 50c.
Conkey's Warming Liniment — Useful for emergencies. Excellent for man or

beast. Price 50c.
Conkey's Pain Lotion — For soreness, throbbing pains, inflammation, cuts, wounds,

burns. Price 50c.
Conkey's Hoof Remedy — Keeps your horse's hoofs in nice shape, thus preventing

accidents. Prices, pt, 50c; qt., 75c; % gal., $1.25; 1 gal., $2.00.
Conkey's Absorbent — Takes place of blistering and firing. Cures lameness.

Removes blemishes. Price $1.00.
Conkey's Bag Ointment — A penetrating, softening application which soothes

quickly. A remedy for many bag troubles. Prices 25c and 50c.
Conkey's Fly Knocker — Sprayed on cows, horses, etc., keeps flies and other

pests away. Kills every fly it hits. Doesn't taint the milk or injure the

animal in any way. Prices, qt., 35c; 2 qts., 60c; 1 gal., $1.00; 5 gal.,

$4.00. For Canada and Western prices see page 217.
Conkey's Nox-i-cide — Kills germs, prevents disease. A dip, disinfectant,

spray and lice killer. Prices, $1.25 gal.; l/2 gal., 75c; qt., 50c. For

Canada and Western prices see page 219.
Conkey's Poultry Remedies— See list, page 220.
Conkey's Dog Remedies— See list, page 222.
Conkey's Special Remedies— See list, page 223.

"Salt-Em"— See page 223.

REMEMBER! Every Conkey Remedy MUST SATISFY YOU
or MONEY BACK.

The G. E. Conkey Company

CLEVELAND : U. S. A.

Conkey's Stock Tonic

Formerly called Conkey's Stock Vigor

First and most important of all Conkey prepara-
tions for internal treatment is this one best general
conditioner for livestock, Conkey's Stock Tonic.

This is not a food but a medicine. It does not even
contain any filler, but is all medicine. You mix it in
spoonfuls or less with your regular feed from your own
feed bins. This makes your own stock food, at home
prices. All you pay for in the package is medicine, all
specific tonic for HORSE, DAIRY or BEEF cattle,
SHEEP and HOGS. This tonic will condition your
stock, make them healthy and vigorous and enable them
to do more for you. It is tonic, alterative treatment,
improves the appetite, insures full digestion, keeps the
system open; keeps the animals worm-free.

There are two uses for Conkey's Stock Tonic:
When any animal is run down, off feed, listless, do-
less, not thriving in spite of feed and care, debilitated from some disease,
then use Conkey's Stock Tonic, in small doses according to directions to
bring the animal back to health. Or, for all stock under strain of special
production, such as DAIRY COWS that are heavy feeders and milkers;
"FEEDERS," whether CATTLE, SHEEP or SWINE, that are being fat-
tened and finished off for the butcher, all brood mares, freshening cows,
ewes, sows; all stud animals under heavy service; in fact for ALL LIVE-
STOCK, use Conkey's Stock Tonic to ease the strain of heavy production
and keep the animals fine and fit.

The whole point is this: Livestock to be profitable MUST be kept under
unnatural conditions. They MUST be given expensive feed, expensive care,
and in general they MUST be under-exercised and rather over-fed in order
to push them to the limit of healthful production and show good profit.
Every animal, to be profitable, must show in the SHORTEST POSSIBLE
TIME the MOST POSSIBLE MARKETABLE PRODUCT.

Now: The more feed you get into your cattle and swine, without
upsetting their appetites, the MORE MONEY you get out of them. Now,
again: No use to feed unless the stock can do their part and turn each
pound (over and above what is called a maintenance ration) into some
product that will mean YOUR PROFIT. Nature would keep digestion per-
fect so long as you feed moderately well and exercise a plenty — but Na-
ture's way won't make money for you. It is what you feed over and above
"natural appetite" that MAKES MONEY for you. Your problem is this:
How to feed for profit and yet not upset natural functions and run the
risk of loss from disease.

Remember that PROFIT in livestock means a short life but a PRO-
DUCTIVE one. Keep in mind the fact that in Holland, the home of the
Holsteins, these cows are not allowed to live beyond eight vigorous, produc-
tive years. Scientific managers crowd each animal along, push to the limit,
feed amazingly but milk accordingly and after this short term of years finish
each record-breaker off for the butcher and spend their valuable time on
younger stock. This is simply business management applied to livestock.

The difference between profit and loss is mostly a matter of feeding.
The less an animal eats the less it can earn for you. The more it eats the
more surplus it can turn into profit — provided it digests all it eats and gets
the full value out of the feed. When you feed heavily for heavy production
you simply must give your animals help of some sort, or you are sure to
have a heap of trouble with indigestion. We have explained how a large

208 Stock Tonic Means Bigger, Quicker Profits

class of dangerous diseases can be absolutely prevented simply by killing
the germs which cause them. There is another large class of diseases
which come, one and all, from imperfect digestion. Let an animal be
overtaxed in its digestive system, let the vital organs be weakened, let
the system be clogged by poisons and .waste which poor blood cannot
flush out of the body, and any one of a dozen serious diseases is liable
to result. These diseases differ greatly in their outward symptoms, some-
times the effect is shown in one part sometimes in another. The digestive
system is the basis of health in the animal's body. The clogged system
becomes a hotbed for dangerous germs, with heat and moisture making
just the right conditions for rapid, often fatal development.

Such diseases as Abortion, Barenness, failing to clean (Retained After-
birth), Milk-Fever, etc., etc., so common in dairy herds, can be practically
prevented by the use of Conkey's Stock Tonic.

Keep the digestion perfect, keep the system open if you would avoid
disease. Conkey's Stock Tonic insures full digestion, keeps every organ
vigorous, keeps the blood clean. It helps the appetite, makes a poor ration
more palatable, puts every bit of nutritive matter in form for the body to
use it, makes the least possible waste. It also expells worms, which in the
treatment of livestock is very important since worms alone cause many
digestive troubles. Blood sucking worms do absolutely no good in your
animal's body, but sap its strength and vitality, waste expensive feed for
you, in time make any animal fail to thrive.

So we say to you that you need Conkey's Stock Tonic. You need this
conditioner for your horses, for your dairy cows, for your feeding cattle and
for your sheep and hogs. You need Conkey's Stock Tonic to make your
livestock pay.

Get it, make a test of it. No risk about it. Ever Conkey package
under satisfaction guarantee. Your money back if you are not absolutely
satisfied with results.

Prices— 1 lb., 25c; 2# Ibs., 5Oc; 5 Ibs., $1.OO; 12 Ib. pail, $2.OO;
25 lb. pail, $3.5O.

Home-Made Stock Salt

All animals need salt. The best plan is to have salt where the farm
animals can help themselves anytime. Then they will take just what they
need, each animal being guided by instinct. But •when salt is given only
occasionally they are pretty sure to take more than is good for them, if they
can get it; and scours, etc., will result. The following is a home-made
medicinal Stock Salt that for beneficial results cannot be beaten by any
formula, and for cheapness would put the commonly advertised stock salts
far in the shade, costing less than 2 U'c per pound.

Take common barrel salt which costs less than one-half cent per pound.
Mix with one part Conkey's Stock Tonic to nine parts salt. For instance, 9O
pounds salt, with 1O pounds Conkey's Stock Tonic (2 packages at $1.OO).
Mix thoroughly, keep dry, and place where all animals can help themselves.
This salt mixture will keep livestock free from worms, help digestion and
appetite. It will increase the thriving, vigorous condition of all animals,
whether horses, cattle, sheep or swine. Let each animal help itself, then each
will get enough and none of them will overeat. Sheep and swine will take
less than horses or cattle. Swine will take least of all but swine should have
salt where they can get at it. Salt for swine should never be mixed in their
slop for there is danger of poisoning them if they should get too much.

Rough Coat, Poor Digestion, Scouring: Use Conkey's Worm Remedy

209

Conkey's Worm Remedy

This is our specific remedy for worms. All domestic
animals are natural "hosts" for worms* An animal may
keep alive and fairly comfortable and still be internally
a mass of writhing, bloodsucking parasites. But no animal
can be really profitable to the owner if it is burdened
with worms. The feed fed is fed to the worms. They
attach themselves to the walls of stomach and intestine
and absorb the nutriment before the animal has a chance
to get it. The animal fails to thrive and has a rough,
staring coat, in spite of a ravenous appetite. Often the
mature worms are expelled in the dung, or dead fragments
are found in the droppings. The animal shows a depraved
appetite, as well as being always hungry, and will east
rotting board, mortar, filth or other unfit substances.
Sometimes violent pains are caused by the presence of worms, as in colic
of horses.

It is easy to keep your stock worm free by the right Stock Tonic
treatment all the time. But if this matter has been neglected for some
time and the animals are found to be already infested, there is only one
thing to do, — treat promptly and actively with a powerful worm killer and
expeller — i. e. Conkey's Worm Remedy. This remedy expells all kinds of
worms, and not merely the "harmless" ones. Strictly speaking no worm
is "harmless" for they are profit sappers every one, although many are
much less serious than the dangerous, ulcerating kind. Look out for worms
and take measures to rid your stock of such parasites promptly. Conkey's
Worm Remedy is an absolutely reliable, guaranteed treatment. Satisfy
yourself at our risk. Get a package today if any of your animals show
signs of worms. You will be fully repaid for the purchase. Besides, every
Conkey package sells on agreement of money back if for any reason you
are not fully satisfied.

Price — 50c, postpaid.

Conkey's Horse Tonic

Here is an exceedingly valuable tonic, a vegetable com-
pound— one bottle is as good as six weeks on grass.

For high bred animals convalescing from debilitating
diseases, for mares after foaling, no medicine equals Conkey's
Horse Tonic. It corrects digestion, increases the appetite,
helps the action of the natural acids and alkalies in the ail-
mentary canal, helps every organ to do its work. It has a
special effect on the nervous system and is just the stimulat-
ing tonic necessary in any depressed condition or in case
of exhaustion from any cause. An excellent treatment for
race horses, for stud animals and brood mares.

Sold on the well known Conkey agreement, your money
bick if you are not absolutely satisfied with results.

Price— $1.OO. In West and Canada, $1.5O.

210

Don't Neglect a Horse with Heaves

Conkey's Heave Remedy

Any treatment which corrects digestion and strength-
ens the nerves, will cure any mild or recent case of
heaves, provided the horse is always properly watered and
fed. Many cases of heaves are easily and quickly cured
simply with Conkey's Stock Tonic treatment for indiges-
tion.

But, the real test of a Heave Remedy is a bad case of
chronic heaves!

Some horses inherit a disposition to heaves, asthma
and broken wind, on account of narrow chests. But most
cases are due to eating clover hay or other irritating fod-
der, such as mouldy or dusty hay, or to working too soon
on a full stomach, which crowds the breathing organs so as
to rupture the small cells in the lungs, and as a result
the horse cannot expell the air naturally but must "heave"
in the effort to do so. The mistake is wrong feeding in
the first place, so that digestion is upset and the whole digestive system
weakened. The horse shows a harsh, staring coat, and the whole appear-
ance is dejected. The nervous system is likewise affected.

Conkey's Heave Remedy will cure every symptom of Heaves and Broken
Wind, even in the worst cases, provided the directions are followed care-
fully. The medicine should be given regularly as directed, and a few simple
rules for feeding followed out absolutely. For unless the cause of the
disease is remedied, plainly the same symptoms will be repeated. A pur-
gative should be given occasionally and the system kept open. Or, a better
way is to give the horse occasional treatment with Conkey's Stock Tonic.

All horses with any tendency to heaves should be put on Stock Tonic
treatment, to correct digestion and tone the vital organs.

Conkey's Heave Remedy acts directly on the weakened digestive organs,
tones them up and strengthens them to do their work. It improves the
coat and the horse soon shows general improved condition, with no sign
of heaves.

Price— $1.OO.

Conkey's Colic Remedy for Horses

Colic in horses is a source of much loss. Colic comes
suddenly. Relief must be quick. The horse will die if
the medicine takes too long to act or if the right remedy
is not at hand and you must send away for it. It is no
wonder that more horses die from colic than from any
other cause.

Conkey's Colic Remedy for Horses is lightning relief
from this sudden and dangerous ailment. It will cure an
ordinary case in a few moments. Not only the medicine
itself is right, and quick in its action, but the manner of
giving it is an enormous advantage. Most colic treatments
call for a drench. A drench is dangerous to give a horse
that is frantic with pain, often it is impossible to drench
a horse, for instance when out on the road and the
attack comes on. Conkey's Colic Remedy is easy and

convenient to give — a few drops on the back of the tongue of the suffering

animal and relief comes immediately.

More Horses Die from Colic than from Any Other Cause 211

Every owner or user of horses should know about this Conkey Remedy
for Colic and should have it on hand for emergency use. It may save the
life of a valuable animal. If colic is treated instantly with Conkey's Colic
Remedy as directed, there is practically no danger, but if the attack is
neglected or this Remedy not at hand to give immediately, the delay
very often proves fatal.

Some horses are especially liable to colic attacks, but often the trouble
is due to wrong methods of watering or feeding, or to worms in the
intestines. Gas colic is the common form of the disease, but spasmodic
colic, or gripes, is, frequent also, as the result of overfeeding or watering
a horse when warm. Sometimes inflammation of the bowels is mistaken
for colic. The general symptoms are very like gas or flatulent colic but
such a mistake is serious, for in inflammation of the bowels (enteritis)
the treatment should be exactly opposite to colic. You will never make
this mistake, however, if you note this difference, that colic comes sud-
denly; but enteritis is gradual and the severe pain is constant.

If you are a horse owner you need Conkey's Colic Remedy. You run
a serious risk in not having it on hand -for emergency. Remember it is
easy and convenient to give, not a drench, and that it brings relief quickly.
Get it, and have it on hand.

Prices— 5Oc and $1.OO.

Conkey's Distemper and Cough
Remedy

Here is another remedy that should be on hand for emergency use,
especially in fall and winter when weather is unsettled. Horses are liable
to chill at such times, since they are shedding. The atmospheric conditions
favor such disorders, as influenza, epizootic, strangles or distemper and pink-
eye (cellulitis). Watch for the first signs of cough, cold or fever. There is
little danger in these attacks except when the symptoms are neglected, so
that complications result, or the condition lingers and becomes chronic.

There is no excuse for neglect. Conkey's Distemper and Cough Remedy
is given in small doses and is easy and convenient treatment. It is not a
drench or a ball, hence there is no danger in giving the Conkey treatment
even when the horse's throat is inflamed or otherwise in irritated condition.

For so-called "shipping fever" Conkey's Distemper and Cough Remedy
is the best treatment known. Guaranteed also for all cases of cough, cold,
chills and fever, influenza, epizootic, strangles (distemper), pinkeye (cellu-
litis), and for pneumonia and bronchitis. Directions for general care and
feeding are included with this treatment; for in all diseases of above nature
good nursing is an important matter.

The important thing is actually to have Conkey's Distemper and Cough
Remedy on hand for use when wanted. Meet any symptom of cough, cold,
chills, etc., with the treatment promptly. Every package sold under
regular guarantee. Money refunded on your plain request to do so,
if in any case you are not satisfied with results.

This is our general all around guarantee. You take no risk on any
Conkey package.

Price— $1.OO, postpaid.

212 Don't Use Cruel Treatments when Gentle Measures Do the Work

Conkey's Fistula and Poll Evil
Remedy

For Poll Evil, Fistulous Withers, or malignant or stubborn abscesses
and sores on any part of the body. The poll, or top of the head, and the
withers, on account of their prominence, are especially liable to injury,
from accidental blows or pressure of any sort. A bruise at either of these
points is apt to develop an abscess or tube-like wound. These tubes or
pipes tend to deepen and burrow. The pus cavity cannot find natural drain-
age and the decomposing and diseased matter collects, the cavity mean-
while sinking deeper and deeper. The longer neglected the deeper the fis-
tula works, getting down into the tissue and even affecting the bone. The
danger is increased the deeper the fistula goes. Usually the swelling at the
top breaks and discharges foul matter.

Make no mistake in treating a case of abscess, fistula or poll evil.
Get Conkey's Fistula and Poll Evil Remedy, the humane yet thoroughly
scientific treatment. Follow directions tor the combination, alternating
treatment, and you will be sure the wound heals safely and scientifically
from the inside out, with no cruelty to the animal.

Conkey's Fistula and Poll Evil Remedy is sold under the usual Conkey
guarantee. This remedy must absolutely satisfy you with results or you
get your money back.

Price— $2.OO, or $2.25 prepaid.

Conkey's Eye Remedy

Weak eyes should always be treated with Conkey's Eye Remedy. If
neglected serious trouble, or even blindness, may result. Look out for such
symptoms as watering eyes, swelling of the lids, changing color, and diffi-
culty in seeing. Conkey's Eye Remedy is a soothing, cooling application,
very grateful to the animal when the eyes are inflamed.

Badly lighted and badly ventilated stables tend to cause eye weakness.
The stable should be well lighted, but the light should never come direct
in the animal's face. Overhead feed racks are another cause of trouble,
on account of dust and chaff. Fumes from piles of filth will injure the eyes.

Conkey's Eye Remedy is easy, simple, effective treatment for any eye
trouble that can be cured short of a surgical operation. Used with a
camels hair brush, with a medicine dropper, or simply swabbed on with
a piece of sterile cotton. It should always be on hand on the Remedy
Shelf, ready for emergency. Sold on agreement, your money back if it
does not positively satisfy.

Price— 5Oc.

Conkey's Gall Salve

A salve is handy to use. This preparation is highly antiseptic and is
effective treatment for galls, chafes, sores, cuts, scratches, etc. A pleasant
cooling application for any irritated surface. An all-around, good, healing
salve, useful for many purposes. No danger of mercurial poisoning from
the use of this excellent and safe ointment.

Prices— 25c and 5Oc.

fl. Dry Dressing, Easy to Apply, Prevents Chafing 213

Conkey's Healing Powder

Here is another necessity for the Stockman's Remedy
Shelf. Probably no article has more general usefulness
than this wonderful Healing Powder. It heals rapidly and
completely galls, cuts, wounds, chafes, sore back, indolent
and malignant ulcers, scratches, thrush and sore and tender
mouths. It is an astringent, an antiseptic, a germicide,
all in one. Any sore or chafed spot is an invitation to
trouble. You know this, so never neglect a cut or wound
or any sore place, but dust immediately with Conkey's
Healing Powder and get it healed quickly, before any
germs enter in or flies are attracted and a festering, or
wormy sore results. Simply dust on Conkey's Healing
Powder from the sifter-top can. This makes a dry dress-
ing, easy to apply, and protects any exposed surface from
further irritation or rubbing. The dry powder absorbs
perspiration, kills any germs and prevents infection, as
well as makes a smooth, chafe-proof surface under the harness.

It is just as necessary to dust your horse with Conkey's Healing
Powder as to oil your mower; and for the same reason — to make "easy
running," prevent undue friction and unnecessary wear of parts. Your
horse is a flesh and blood machine. Horse-power depends in large part
on the horse's comfort when he settles into the collar. If the collar is
poorly fitting you get less horsepower, as well as galls, chafes and sore
shoulders. Keep the collar free from hardened ridges of dirt and sweat.
Wherever there is any danger from rubbing or chafing, dust on Conkey's
Healing Powder. Keep your faithful animal chafe-free.

Conkey's Healing Powder is very quick in results. Cures bad cuts
and wounds in remarkably short time, so that you do not lose the service
of your animal. It is the most scientific preparation for use after surgical
operations, such as castrating and dehorning. Needed in many emergencies
as well as for dozens of common uses. Keep Conkey's Healing Powder
on hand. Let it have a regular place on your Remedy Shelf.

Prices— 25c, also 5Oc, postpaid.

Conkey's Warming Liniment

A first-rate liniment certainly is a necessity to every farmer and stock-
man. There are dozens of common uses and many emergencies where
a stimulating, penetrating liniment is wanted and wanted immediately.

Every pharmacist knows there are problems in compounding, render-
ing and combining. It is not enough to simply mix things up. We have
spared no effort in perfecting Conkey's Warming Liniment and today feel
doubtful if any alteration could be made in its present manufacture that
would improve its usefulness in any degree.

Removes soreness, lameness, swelling, stiffness. Strengthens muscles;
excellent for sweeny or partial paralysis, rheumatism, strains, sprains.
Increases circulation in a part, relieves congestion or inflammation. Excel-
lent for treatment of sore throat or lungs or cold in chest. A warming
application for any part. Penetrating, stimulating, eases pain.

Equally safe and reliable for human use. Contains no poison.

Price— 5Oc.

214

First Aid in Many Injuries — Conkey's Pain Lotion

Conkey's Pain Lotion

Here is another emergency article that should be on your
Remedy Shelf. For sudden sprain or lameness; for inflam-
mation of any part, in a41 accidents, for soreness, pain, cuts,
wounds, dress the part immediately with Conkey's Pain Lo-
tion, and the patient will feel grateful.

Note that this preparation is not a liniment, not an irri-
tant. Its action is soothing, not stimulating. It is cooling,
quieting, healing. It reduces pain, takes out inflammation,
soothes, heals. In addition to all this it is highly antiseptic,
making a perfect and all-sufficient dressing for any painful
part. It also has special mentholic properties. That is why
Conkey's Pain Lotion is just the treatment for inflammation
or soreness of the throat or mouth. Used as an inhalant it
instantly clears the head passages. Apply with a spray or
atomizer, or simply swab the Pain Lotion directly on the part.

Conkey's Pain Lotion is an excellent bag ointment for cows. It
soothes the inflammation, reduces congestion, heals sores and eruptions.
Price— 5Oc

Conkey's Hoof Remedy

A good hoof means a good horse. Under natural conditions, contact
with soft, moist earth keeps the hoof substance in elastic condition just as
Nature intended.

But when we start to work the horse on city paving, or hard dry
roads or let him stand in the stable a day or two, the hoof dries out. In
this hard dry condition it is easily cracked or split. The horse cannot do
his work unless his feet keep elastic and pliable as nature made them. This
elasticity is very necessary to lessen the jar of the footfall. Hard, dry feet
cause many foot troubles, such as split hoof, quarter-crack, seedy toe and
consequent loss of usefulness to the owner as well as needless pain to the
horse.

You can keep the hoofs in good shape, no matter
what the condition of the road by daily use of this Hoof
Remedy. Don't make the mistake of smearing axle
grease or linseed oil on the hoof. Grease drives out
moisture. Conkey's Hoof Remedy has a lanolin (wool-
fat) base, which penetrates the horn substance, but does
not clog the tissues, as would grease or ointment. Used
with a brush or rag. Takes but a moment. Keeps the
hoof moist. Makes the feet healthy and elastic. Pre-
vents Contracted Feet and saves the expense of bar
shoes, and pads under shoes. Prevents Split Hoof, Bog-
Spavin, Quarter Crack and Seedy Toe. Saves all that
cost for fancy shoeing because it keeps the feet in good
condition and counteracts the effect of road and weather. Mixed with bran,
it makes an excellent hoof packing, or can be used for an antiseptic poultice
for any part. It will cure a bad case of thrush and put the feet in nice shape.
Should be used regularly in every stable. It prolongs the usefulness and
increases the value of your horse.

Prices— 1 pint, 5Oc; 1 quart, 75c; 2 quarts, $1.25; 1 gallon, $2.OO.
Write for prices on larger quantities.

Conkey's Absorbent Does Not Blister or Leave a Scar

215

Conkey's Absorbent

This is the great remedy for lameness from Spavin, Ringbone, or other
bony deposit. Also for Curb, Splint, Capped Hock, Swollen Joints, swollen
tissue, filled tendons, synovitis, bursitis, or any inflammatory thickenings
near joints.

These serious troubles are caused by strain or accident and strains or
accidents are usually due to some fault of action. Faulty action nine
times in ten, comes from neglect of the hoof, as a result of which the whole
body is thrown out of joint. Elsewhere we have explained the value of
regular dressing of the hoofs with Conkey's Hoof Remedy. It is clear
that if this simple treatment is adopted as a regular habit in the stable,
you save the risk of serious injuries to your horse's legs. Most of the
injuries of the class above described are exceedingly painful to the horse
and interfere with his usefulness. Spavins of various kinds, whether painful
or painless, constitute unsoundness. Ringbone, splint, sidebone (which is
practically a restricted ringbone) all lessen a horse's usefulness and may
utterly ruin his value. The longer these conditions are neglected the worse
they become; and all the time the horse is more liable to other strains and
accidents. In fact, these serious troubles usually have very slight begin-
nings. Often if the first strain or swelling or slight lameness is promptly
treated, and the fault of the hoof corrected so as to restore proper action,
the trouble is cured quickly and permanently. For just such attention Con-
key's Pain Lotion should be on hand, A little of it promptly used saves
dollars of future treatment.

For any persistent lameness, or any swelling, thickening,
or bone enlargement treat at once with Conkey's Absorbent.
Conkey's Absorbent will not in every case entirely re-
move the bony enlargement. It will reduce the enlargement,
and in all but very old and obstinate cases it will actually
remove the growth, by absorption and dispersion. But you
can take the package on this guarantee. No matter how old
or how bad the case, or how long neglected, if Conkey's
Absorbent treatment according to directions does not remedy
the trouble to your entire satisfaction you can get your
money back in full, from the dealer or direct from The
Conkey Company.

Conkey's Absorbent is, easy to apply. More important
than this, it is easy treatment on the animal. It does not
blister, or leave any tell-tale blemish. Its action is the mild-
est known for growths and lameness from Spavin, Curb,
Splint, Ringbone, Sidebone, etc. Why subject your horse to cruel firing
and blistering when Conkey's Absorbent treatment remedies the trouble
without pain or ugly scars?

Conkey's Absorbent is also useful to have on hand for removing puffs
and bunches, leaving the part smooth and perfect to the touch and sight.
Get Conkey's Absorbent and it will improve the appearance of your stock,
which will increase their market value.

Have it always on hand for emergency and treat every lameness,
bunch or enlargement soon as it appears. Don't try to get along without
Conkey's Absorbent. Don't try tp save the price of the package, and risk
the value of your horse.

Price— $1.0O.

216 A Good Cow Must Have a Good Udder

Conkey's Bag Ointment

A remarkably efficient bag ointment, which soothes and softens. Cool-
ing, penetrating. Excellent for treating any sore or inflamed condition,
such as Garget or Caked Udder, Bunches in Bag, Sore, Cracked or Injured
Teats. Conkey's Bag Ointment allays inflammation, reduces congestion,
heals sores and eruptions. It is also a perfect antiseptic dressing for any
part.

Prices— 25c and 50c.

Useful Cattle Instruments*

Teat Dilator — In case of leaky teat use dilator till the wound or leak can
be cured. Price, $1.00 postpaid.

Bistoury — For slitting teats of a hard milker, to enlarge the canal. Price,
$1.50 postpaid.

Teat Expander — Made of metal, nickle-plated; to be used with or without
the bistoury. Price, 50c.

Milking Tubes — For sore and obstructed teats, or for hard milking cows,
these tubes are a real necessity. Made in three sizes, and any size
can be had either plated or in solid coin silver, as follows: 2-inch
size, 25c; solid silver, 40c; 3-inch size, 30c; solid silver, 50c; 4-inch size,
35c; solid silver, 60c.

Hard Milker Outfit — Includes Teat Bistoury; Teat Opener; Milking Tube;
Teat Expander; 1 cake Animal Soap. Packed in handy wooden case.
Price, $3.00 postpaid.

Trocar and Canula — For treating bloat or hoven. Plunge instrument into
the body at heighth of swelling over the rumen (midway between
ribs and hip, a hand breadth from the backbone). Remove trocar
but leave canula or tube in position until all gas has escaped. Full
directions with instrument. Price, $1.50 postpaid.

Milk Fever Outfits — With this outfit on hand no dairyman need fear fatal
results from Parturient Apoplexy, commonly called Milk Fever.
Price of outfit complete, with fulLdirections, $3.00, prepaid.

Fever Thermometer — Every stock owner should have a good clinical ther-
mometer, which can be inserted up the rectum or in the vulvar, and
held in place for two or three minutes. These temperature tests are
often the best means of diagnosing the trouble. Page 12, we have
given some general rules for understanding temperature readings,
also a table for normal temperatures. In addition to these there are
other useful rules with which the stockman can easily acquaint himself
and thus have a pretty solid basis for favorable or unfavorable prog-
nosis of any given case. The thermometer listed here is considered
the best on the market. It is fully reliable. Price, $2.00.

Tuberculin Test Outfit — Full directions -included, also tuberculin sufficient
to test ten cows. Price, complete, $5.00. Tuberculin alone (in vial,
sufficient for ten cows) price, $1.50 per vial.

*We do not make Cattle Instruments, but handle this reliable line for convenience of our patrons.

You Know It Pays!

217

Conkey's Fly Knocker

This is a specialty for the fly season. It is a neces-
sity to every dairyman as it keeps flies off and enables
the cows to turn all their energy into milk or butterfat.

Cows can't fight flies and make money for you.
They fret off more than their feed can produce in
energy, flesh or milk. It is common sense and busi-
ness economy to spray them with Conkey's Fly
Knocker so that they can do their best. No use
to lose out on your milk contracts and let your cows
fall off in milk just because the flies have arrived.
Conkey's Fly Knocker more than pays for itself every
time. In addition to savinig milk, it saves trouble and
annoyance in handling the herd, saves the milker's
time, and saves torment to the dumb beasts. Positively
is not poisonous. The odor will not taint the milk.
Good lasting qualities when used according to direc-
tions. Protects cattle from gad flies, buffalo flies, screw<
worms or any blow fly. Prevents lice and grub. Easy
to use with cloth or sprayer.

Horses should not be allowed to fret and spoil in
spirit because of tormenting flies. Conkey's Fly
Knocker will not injure the horse's coat but will keep
the torturing flies away. Saves feet, saves flesh, saves
spirit. Saves shoes from being stamped off. Sprayed
on your horse before taking him for a drive, it pre-
vents the danger from accident or running away.
Blacksmiths cannot afford to do without Fly Knocker
because it saves time in shoeing, saves trouble and ex-
pense of a shoo-fly boy, and prevents danger of acci-
dent.

Dealers say "Best fly dope we ever handled."
Customers say "Nothing else will do what Conkey's
Fly Knocker does." We say, let every man try it on
our guarantee money back if he wants it. Let every
dairyman, horseman, blacksmith, judge Conkey's Fly
Knocker for himself.

Prices— lqt.,35c; 2qt.,6Oc; lgal.,$l.OO; 5 gal.,
(jacketed) $4.OO. Expressage extra. Western and
Canada prices: qt., 5Oc; 2 qt., 75c; 1 gal., $1.25;
5 gal., $5.0O. Express extra.

Sprayers: Our own brand, the Conkey Perfect
Sprayer. Price, 50c.

Best and most economical way to use Fly Knocker
is with the sprayer.

Dairy cows can be pushed hard for production when you use Conkey's
Stock Tonic. See page 2O7.

218

Clean, Sanitary Quarters

donkey's Nox-i-cide

If there is any one thing which absolutely
you must have, it is a good all-around dip and
disinfectant.

For perfect usefulness, such an article
should be a combination
Dip,

Disinfectant,
Spray,
Lice Killer.

Most diseases are preventable, even those
for which there is no cure. The worst diseases
the stock owner has to contend with are the con-
tagious germ diseases, of which there are many.
These diseases break out suddenly, and rapidly

spread through the herd, sweeping away the stock-owner's profits, killing
outright or leaving the animals weakened, sometimes permanently injured.
Now if you have the right sort of dip and disinfectant, it will kill the germs
of disease. But an all around dip and disinfectant must do more than kill
germs. As explained in the text of this book, page 8, to meet all practical
purposes a good disinfectant must be an antiseptic, a germicide, a parasiti-
cide and an insecticide all in one. It must be non-explosive, non-corrosive,
non-poisonous. In other words, it must be safe. It must also be easy
and pleasant to use, or the average person will put off using it — often too
late.

This is the scientific test of a good dip and disinfectant. But there is
a practical test: It must be cheap. It must be cheap so that you can use
it often and use a lot. Take a pencil and figure out how cheap Conkey's
Nox-i-cide is. Every gallon mixes with water, 1 to 100 parts. You can
even afford to waste a little, rather than skimp on using enough. Keeps
everything clean. Keeps the quarters sanitary. Insures your investment
against loss from contagious disease. Rids the flock of parasites of every
sort. Conkey's Nox-i-cide is not a cure-all, but it wipes out" all danger
from a long list of diseases, simply by preventing the first start.

Besides this, a good many disorders will cure themselves if you keep
conditions germ-free. Cuts, wounds, scratches can be quickly healed by
disinfectant. Cure all such places in the first place, and they will not
develop into festering or wormy sores. There is another large class of
disorders for which Conkey's Nox-i-cide is the remedy. Parasites are
the serious menace to livestock. Parasites, both internal and external, are
the one biggest cause of unprofitable stock. Ticks, lice, fleas, mites, grub,
parasites of many sorts attack the hide or seek entrance in body-openings,
such as mouth, nose, vulva, and serious trouble results. Conkey's Nox-i-cide
is sure and positive riddance of all such pests.

Sheep and swine are especially troubled with internal parasites. This
disinfectant is not only safe for external use, but a little of it in the slop
for hogs, or snuffed up the nose when the sheep is dipped, is very beneficial,
as it helps to get rid of these internal parasites.

Dipping is a necessity if you would keep your flock in health. All
animals thrive better when the skin is clean. Conkey's Nox-i-cide not

Save Loss, Insure Profits 219

only makes a healthy skin, it makes better texture of hair or wool. Some
dips burn, stain or kink the wool, take the life out of it, and lower its market
value. Such dips ruin the strength of fibre and spoil it for dyeing. Conkey's
Nox-i-cide has none of these faults. The wool-factor pays a higher price
for the shearing from Conkey-dipped sheep.

Some dips kill scabmites on sheep, but not ticks and lice. Conkey's
Nox-i-cide kills all these parasites. Some dips cause loss of little lambs
from nursing their dams after dipping. This dip does not even nauseate
them. Animals are easily poisoned by absorption through the skin. Many
cases of mercurial poisoning are on record, simply from the application of
mercurial ointments. Conkey's Nox-i-cide is positively non-poisonous.

Conkey's Nox-i-cide is a real necessity. It pays for itself. It kills lice,
ticks, mites, even the minute organisms that cause mange, itch, ringworm
and eczema. For all purposes of dipping and disinfecting and for external
dressing of any part, there is nothing like Conkey's Nox-i-cide. It heals
sores, cuts, gafls, and prevents infection. It will cure thrush, grease-heel
and scratches when used as directed. It will also stamp out contagious
abortion if used as directed, page 141, when this trouble enters a flock
or herd.

Germs of many diseases keep alive for months unless the quarters are
thoroughly cleaned and sprayed or washed with a solution of Conkey's
Nox-i-cide. It should be sprinkled in runs and yards to sweeten the
ground. It should be used in the wash water to keep utensils germ-free
as well as what we call clean. It should be used often, it should be used
with regularity. It is even economy to waste a little rather than run the
risk of losing a lot of your due profit on account of preventable disease.

Remember that Conkey's Nox-i-cide is cheap. Every gallon makes 100
gallons of ready-to-use disinfectant. It is pleasant to use, no danger of
explosion or corrosion or poison to the user or to the stock. You need it.
It is a necessity on every Remedy Shelf.

The price is right. $1.25 gallon. 75c half gallon. 50c quart. Express
extra. Western and Canada prices: $1.50 gallon. 90c half gallon.
60c quart. Express extra.

USE CONKEY'S PERFECT SPRAYER

For spraying any Liquid Disinfectant t

or Insecticide. It saves waste.

The best that can be sold for the price

There is as much difference in sprayers as in cows. You can't go by looks, you
must go by test. This sprayer is made of good tin and has good serviceable leather
washer. It is made well and does good work. It stands the test. You can buy a
cheaper article, but not nearly so good at near the price. Positively the best spray
pump manufactured, that can be sold for the price.

Sprays up or down. Price, 5O Cents : By Mail, 75 Cents

220 For Good Advice on Any

Conkey's Poultry Remedies

We believe in treating each distinct disease with a definite,
specific remedy.

Another great secret of curing disease is to apply the remedy in
the earlier stages. We have put up our remedies in such convenient
form that they can be given at once and with the least inconvenience.
They are reasonable in price, so that any poultryman can afford to
keep them on hand, ready for use at the logical moment without
waiting to send for them. Money back if any remedy ever fails you.

Free Advice on Any Poultry Problems

If you have not had a copy of donkey's 50c Poultry Book,
80 p., write for it.

Full of good working ideas. Mailed FREE on receipt of
4c postage.

Information furnished cheerfully. Advice on any poultry
difficulties FREE.

Conkey's Roup Remedy is used in every civilized country of the world and
is absolutely guaranteed for this most terrible poultry disease, if
given in anything like a reasonable time. Use it as a preventive also.
Prices, 50c and $1.00 postpaid.

Conkey's Bronchitis Remedy — Bronchitis is often mistaken for Roup, though
it is a distinct disease and requires different treatment. This remedy
does away with lime fumes and other hurtful treatments. It is meet-
ing with great favor and is sold on satisfaction guarantee. Price,
50c postpaid.

Conkey's Cholera Remedy — All diseases of the digestive organs are com-
monly called "Cholera." Actual Asiatic Cholera, which is seldom
seen in this country, is incurable. This remedy will cure all cases
of so-called Cholera, such as Indigestion, Bowel Trouble, Diarrhoea,
Dysentery, etc. Price, 25c and 50c, postpaid.

Conkey's Gape Remedy — Gapes are caused by gape worms in the windpipe.
This remedy saves thousands of little chicks each season. It will
save yours if given in reasonable time. Price 50c; 65c postpaid.

Conkey's Chicken Pox Remedy — Chicken Pox is a disgusting disease. It
goes by different names in different localities. In the south it is
called Sore Head. In other places, it is termed Pian, Warts and
Pigeon Pox. It is the smallpox of the poultry yard. This remedy
will wipe it out every time. Price, 50c; 60c postpaid.

Poultry Troubles, Write to Conkey 221

Conkey's Limber Neck Remedy — Limber Neck is caused by the fowls
eating some sort of decayed animal flesh which is full of ptomaines.
It is really a ptomaine poisoning. A dead rat under the barn may
cause it. It is a very fatal disease if not attended to at the start.
This remedy cures it, if given in prompt and reasonable time. It is
one of the remedies, which should be right at hand. When you need
it, often it is too late to send for it. Price, 50c; 60c postpaid.

Conkey's White Diarrhea Remedy — The new Conkey discovery, a remedy
also a preventive for fatal white diarrhea in little chicks. Easy to
give in the drinking water. Cures even bad cases. Have it on hand
early to insure the hatch. It is chick insurance. Price, 50c postpaid.

Conkey's Black Head Remedy — A special remedy for Blackhead (Entero-
hepatitis) in turkeys. Guaranteed results. Price, 50c postpaid.

Conkey's Poultry Worm Remedy — Rids the fowl of all the hurtful worms
as well as the so-called harmless worms. Leaves the fowl in a
healthy, vigorous state, with no drain on its system. Price, 50c
postpaid.

Conkey's Poultry Laxative — Takes the place of Castor Oil, Epsom Salts,
Aloes, etc., so often recommended by some, and denounced by others.
All doubts are removed by using this remedy. Has no harmful effect
on the fowl, is a laxative, or a purgative, according to the dose,
and can be depended upon every time. Price, 25c postpaid.

Conkey's Poultry Tonic — For birds run down, off feed, and out of condition,
is a valuable health restorer. Price, 25c; 30c postpaid. This is a
general tonic, distinct from our special Laying Tonic.

Conkey's Rheumatic Remedy — Rheumatism in fowls is similar to rheumatism
in human beings. This remedy cures the lameness and restores your
fowls to usefulness and profit. Price, 50c; 60c postpaid.

Conkey's Scaly Leg Remedy — Scaly Leg is caused by a parasite working
underneath the scales of feet and legs. It spoils a fowl and gives it
a very bad appearance. This remedy kills the parasite and removes
the blemishes. It is also much used to dress the legs of show birds
for exhibition. Price, 50c; 60c postpaid.

Conkey's Laying Tonic — This article actually promotes egg production,
without injuring or straining the fowl in the least. It is not a food,
which you can buy cheaper at home, but it is a tonic medicine which
induces the perfect assimilation of the food, increases the appetite,
keeps the egg producing organs in a vigorous state, promotes egg
production and gives the necessary health to accomplish it. It is not
a stimulant, but a natural tonic which keeps the vigor of the fowl
normal, under the strain of heavy egg laying. Prices, V/2 Ibs., 25c;
Zl/4 Ibs., 50c; 7 Ibs., $1.00; 25 Ib. pail, $3.00. Expressage extra.

Conkey's Healing Salve — This article is one of the best salves known and
is as good for you as for your fowls. It heals everything on man,
beast, or fowl. Price, 25c and 50c, postpaid.

Conkey's Flea Salve — For the southern Stick-tight or Hen Flea. This kills
and removes them at once without injury to the fowls and is proving
of great value in exterminating this pest. Price, 25c or 30c postpaid.

Conkey's Lice Powder — This is a new powder, discovered since January,
1907. It is perfectly harmless to the fowl and kills the lice dead on
the spot. They do not drop off, crawl away and revive, to bother
you again, but they are wiped out entirely. Prices, 5 oz. Pkg. lOc;

222 Conkey's Dog Remedies

15 oz. Pkg. 25c; 48 oz. Pkg. SOc; 100 oz. Pkg. $1.00. Add Ic per oz.
for postage, or expressage extra.

Conkey's Lice Liquid— The only thing for Mites. It kills them in the cracks,
crevices and holes of poultry house, roosts and hiding places. It
keeps your fowls free of one of their greatest pests. Prices, 1 Quart
35c; 2 Quarts, 60c; 1 Gallon, $1.00; 5 Gallons (jacketed), $4.00. Ex-
pressage extra.

Conkey's Head Lice Ointment — This article will destroy the head louse,
which annually kills thousands of little chicks. It has an agreeable
odor, is perfectly harmless to the chick, and kills the head louse the
moment it touches him. It is a very valuable ointment. Prices, 1 oz.
Box (good for 100 applications), lOc postpaid, 3 oz. Box (good for
300 applications) 25c, postpaid.

Conkey's Sulphur Candles — Four ounces of sulphur in each candle, and
supplied with a protecting tin basin in which to burn it. Easy to
light, safe to use, and deadly to all germ and insect life. Moisten the
air, burn the candles and they will neutralize all germ infection.
Packed neatly, one dozen in a box, or will sell them singly. Prices,
each lOc, three for 25c, $1.00 per doz. By mail, 5c extra each.
All of Conkey's Remedies are guaranteed to satisfy the user or his

money will be returned without a question.

Full description of these and all other known diseases of poultry in the

famous Conkey Poultry Book, SOc; 80 pages. This book is a complete

manual of practical information on housing, management, feed and general

care. Sent free for 4c postage and name of any dealer.

Conkey's Dog Remedies

WE make a limited line of Dog Remedies ; but this includes the
most frequently needed preparations, and every article put out
can be relied on for the work it is claimed to do.

Conkey's Distemper Remedy for Dogs — A boon to dog lovers. Has given
entire satisfaction even in extreme cases. Price, SOc; 60c postpaid.

Conkey's Dog Tonic — For dogs run down, off feed or poorly fed, in fact,
debilitated from any cause or recovering from disease. Brings them
quickly to condition. Price, SOc; 65c prepaid.

Conkey's Mange Remedy for Dogs, Cats and other animals subject to this
loathsome disease. This remedy is an absolute cure if directions
are followed closely. An excellent blood purifier. Price SOc, or
65c prepaid.

Conkey's Worm Drops for Dogs — Remove worms without injury to grown
dogs or young puppies, even the finest bred dogs. A dependable
remedy for this common ailment. Price, SOc, or 65c prepaid.

Conkey's Pi-no — We call attention here to the special use of this disin-
fectant for the dog's bath and also to rid the animal of fleas. Pi-no
is a thorough antiseptic, parasiticide, insecticide and germicide. Pleas-
ant to use. Keeps the skin in healthy fine condition and cures
any cuts, sores or surface wounds quickly. An excellent all-around
article for dogs. Prices, 7 oz., 25c; pint can, SOc; quart, 75c; half
gallon, $1.00; gallon, $1.50; 5 gallons, $6.50.

Conkey's "Salt-em" 223

The New Medicated Stock Salt--
Conkey's " Salt-Em"

All animals need salt. But when salt is given only occasionally,
they are pretty sure to take more than is good for them if they get a
chance at it, and scours, etc., will result. We have studied this special
need of farm animals and have made up a new preparation for horses,
cattle, sheep and swine, which takes the place of salt, and combines
the best suited medical elements, so that the preparation as a whole
can be given as a daily tonic, digestive, and worm remedy, as well as
a simple appetizer. To indicate its method of use, we have called this
'new Conkey article "SALT-EM."

Left before stock all the time it fills their entire need for salt, and
gives in addition a quick, easy way of treating common diseases. The
animals will not overdose when they can help themselves any time.
What they do is to take the medication just as they need it, guided by
instinct, so that it acts as a sort of automatic guard on the general
health condition. For instance, an animal inclined to get "off feed"
will doctor itself with "SALT-EM'' if given the opportunity. An animal
troubled with worms will of its own accord lick up "SALT-EM" if the
medication is where the animal can get at it.

"SALT-EM" left before animals all the time acts as a general reg-
ulator and preventive. It increases digestion, hence cuts down feed
waste. It restores tone and function to overtaxed organs. As a worm
medicine alone, "SALT-EM" would prove invaluable to any stock owner.
These facts indicate the general nature of the article, but write for
folder giving complete information.

"SALT-EM" is sold on our regular guarantee. Any stock owner
can try it out in his own feed shed, with the certainty that the test
will cost him nothing if in the end he is not more than satisfied.

But "SALT-EM" will satisfy! Its results will astonish as well as
please you.

Prices — 100 pounds, $5; 40 pounds, $2.25; 10 pounds, 75 cents.

INDEX

Abortion 141, 176, 198

Abscess 83

Advice Free 2, 220

Anaemia 142, 176

Anthrax 142

Appetite Deranged 83

Asthma 83

Azoturia 13, 83

Balking 78

Barb-wire Cuts 84

Barrenness 84, 198

Beef Cattle 40-45,134-140

Bit Sores 85

Bites of Insects 85

Black Leg 142

Blindness 85

Bloat 143, 176

Blood Out of Order (See also Anaemia) . . 85

Blood Spavin 85

Bloody Milk 144

Bog Spavin 86

Bone Spavin (See Spavin) Ill

Bots 86

Breeds and Breeding 5-7, 205

Broken Knee 87

Broken Wind 83

Bronchitis 87

Bruised Knee 87

Bull Nose 202

Caked Bag 147

Canker Foot Disease 95

Capped Elbow 88

Capped Hock 88

Capped Knee 88

Castrating 88, 144, 167

Cataract of Eye 95

Catarrh (Cold) 88, 144, 176, 198

Catarrhal Fever 181

Catarrhal Rhinitis 198

Cattle, 117-156; Diseases, 141-156; Feeding

35-45

Cattle Instruments 216

Charbon 142

Cholera, Hog 199, 200

Chorea 89

Choryza, Acute 198

Cold 144, 171, 176

Colic 89

Collar Boil 89

Collar Galls 98

Condition Run Down 90

Congestion of Lungs 91

Conkey's Absorbent 206, 215

Conkey's Bag Ointment 206, 216

Conkey's Blister 104

Conkey's Colic Remedy 206, 210

Conkey's Disinfectant .206, 218

Conkey's Distemper Fever and Cough

Remedy 206, 211

Conkey's Dog Remedies , 222

Conkey's Eye Remedy 206, 212

Conkey's Fistula and Poll Evil Remedy. .

' 206, 212

Conkey's Fly Knocker 206, 217

Conkey's Gall Salve 206, 212

Conkey's Healing Powder 206, 213

Conkey's Heave Remedy 206, 210

Conkey's Hoof Remedy 206, 214

Conkey's Horse Tonic 206, 209

Conkey's Lice Powder 221

Conkey's Nox-icide Dip and Disinfectant 9, 218

Conkey's Pain Lotion 206, 214

Conkey's Perfect Sprayer 219

Conkey's Poultry Remedies 220

Conkey's Special Remedies 223

Conkey's Stock Tonic 206. 207

Conkey's Veterinary Salt 54

Conkey's Warming Liniment 206, 213

Conkey's Worm Remedy 206, 209

Constipation In Calves, 145; In Cows, 152;

In Horses 91

Corns 91, 95

Cottonseed Poisoning 200

Cough 91, 145

Cowpox 145

Cracked Heels 92

Cribbing 92

Curb 92, 95

Dairy Herd 117-132

Dehorning 146

Depraved Appetite 146

Diarrhea 92

Digestive Disorders 93

Dipping 172

Diseases, General Signs of, 12; Cattle, 141-
156; Horses, 83-116; Sheep, 176-185;

Swine 198-204

Disinfecting 8, 11, 94, 172, 189

Dislocation 94

Distemper 92, 94, 100, 211, 222

Drenching 15, 16

Dual Purpose Breeds 132-134

Dysentery 93

Eczema , 94

Enteritis 93

Exostosis 95

Eyes 94, 110, 146, 212

Farcy 97

Feeds and Feeding, 20-55; Economy in
Home Grown, 128; For Sick Animals,
14; Pastures, 19, 53, 174; Table of Ele-
ments, 29-30; Beef Steer, 31, 34, 40-45;
Dairy Cow, 31, 34, 35-40, 127-129;
Horse, 31, 45-49; Sheep, 31, 34, 49-52,

171; Swine 31, 34, 52-55, 190

Feet of Horse 73, 74, 95, 214

Fever 95

Filaria Papillosa 94

Fistula 95, 212

Flies, Danger from 18, 72, 96, 173

Fly Knocker 217

Fluke Disease 177

Follicular Mange 201

Foot Rot 146, 1 77

Foul Foot 146

Founder 96

Free Advice 2, 220

Free Poultry Book 222, 225

Galls 97

Garget 147, 178

Gestation Table 205

Gid 178

Glanders 97

Glandular Swelling 147

Grass Staggers 179

Grease Heel 98

Grub in Head 179

Halter Pulling 98

Hard Hoof 98

Harness Galls 98

Heat, Failure to Come in 147

Heaves 98, 99, 210

Hide Bound 99

Hog Cholera 199

Hogs, 186-204; Diseases, 198-204; Feed-
ing 52-55

Hoofs 73-75, 214

Hoose in Sheep 176, 180

Horses, 56-116; Diseases, 83-116; Feed-
ing 45-49

Hoven 143

Husk in Sheep 176, 180

Indigestion 100, 148, 200, 207

Inflammation 100

Influenza 100

Itch 101, 150

Joint Disease 1 °5

kidney Worm 192, 201, 202

INDEX— Continued

Lameness 101, 148, 215

Laminitis 96

I.ampas 102

Leuchorrea 1 02, 115, 148

Lice 102, 149, 183, 192, 200, 201

Liver Rot 177

Livestock: Plea for, 3-4; General Man-
agement, 7-20; Care When Sick 14

Loss of Power 202

Lumpy Jaw 149, 150

Lung Fever 106

Lungworm 1 80

Lymphangitis 102, 103

Maggots 181

Mallenders 103

Mammitis 103

Mange 103, 150, 201

Manure: Care and Value of, 18; Fertiliz-
ing Elements in 29

Medicine for Animals 15-16

Meningitis 104

Milk: Care of, 131; Tests 121, 129

Milk Fever 1 50, 202

Moon Blindness 104

Mouth Sores 104

Mules 81

Nasal Gleet 104, 105

Nature vs. Science 24

Navel and joint Disease 105, 152

Nodular Disease 181

Paper Skin 176, 180

Paralysis, 202; Of Bowels 152

Parasiticides 9

Parasites, External: Lice, 102, 149, 183,
192, 200; Maggots, 181; Mange, 103,

150, 201; Scab, 182; Warbles 156

Parasites, Internal: Bots, 86; Flukes,
177; Grub in Head, 179; Kidney Worms,
192, 201, 202; Lungworm, 180; Stomach
Worms, 184; Worm Bronchitis, 203;

Worms 115, 193, 204, 207-209

Pastures 19, 1 74

Pink Eye 100, 106, 211

Pneumonia 106

Poll Evil 106, 212

Poultices 16

Proud Flesh 107

Pulse 12

Quarter Crack 107

Quidding 107

Quittor 95, 107

Rations: Beef Cattle, 41, 42; Dairy Cows,
38-40, 127; Horses, 45-49; Sheep, 49,

51; Swine 55

Rheumatism 1 08

Rickets 202

Ringbone 1 08, 2 1 5

Ringworm 108, 152

Roaring 108

Run Down Condition 90

Saddle Mange 94

Sallenders 103

Salt, Medicated 46,52,54,208

Salt, Value of 42, 172, 208

Sandcrack 95

Scab in Sheep 182

Scalds 109

Science in Feeding 21-30

Science in Breeding 5-7

Scours 153, 183, 202

Scratches 109

S-edy Toe 10!>

Sheep, 157-185; Diseases, 176-185; Feed-
ing 49-52

Shipping Fever 110

Sidebones 110

Silo 36

Skin Disease 110

Slinking 141

Slobbering 154

Snuffles 202

Sore Eyes 110

Sore Mouth 110, 154, 184, 198

Sores 110, 154

Spavin (Bone) 95, 111,215

For Bog and Blood Spavin, see p. 86.

Splint 95, 111, 215

Split Hoof 95, 214

Sprains 112, 213, 214

St. Yitus Dai-.cj 89

Staggers 112, 178

Sterility 115, 154

Stock Salt, Formula for 46

See also pages 42, 52, 54, 208.

Stocking 112

Stomach Worms 184

Strangles 100, 112

Stringhalt 89, 112

Stumbling 112

Sturdy (Gid) 178

Sunstroke 112

Sweeny 112

Swelling 154

Swine, 186-204; Disease, 198-204; Feed-
ing 52-55

Tables for Feeding 29, 30

Tables for Breeding 7, 205

Teats, Derangements of 151, 155, 216

Teeth 46, 72, 113

Ticks 184

Thick Wind 108-109

Thin Flesh 113

Thoroughpin 113

Throat Soreness 113

Thrush 95, 113, 114

Thumps 203

Tuberculosis 53, 155, 203

Tumors 114, 215

Turn Sick 178

Warbles 156

Warts 114, 156

Weed in Horses 103

Whistling 108

White Scours 153

Whites ( Leuchorrhoea) 148

Windgalls 114

Wind Puffs 114

Wire Cuts 114

Wool Eating 185

Worm Bronchitis 203

Worms 115, 193, 204, 207-209

Yeast Treatment 115

FREE! Here's Something for You if you are interested in chickens,
—a fine, new, big edition of Conkey's Poultry Book! "I got more
practical working ideas out of Conkey's than any other chicken book I
ever read" writes one man. Treats the whole poultry subject, housing,
breeding, feeding, incubation, as well as care and management of fowls
when diseased. Includes Turkeys, Ducks and Geese. You want this book.
You can make a success of poultry if you follow this book. Send your
name and stamps, 4c, and we will mail you a copy FREE.

PRIE

HORSES
CATTL
SHEEP
S W I N

INDEX

Advice free

American Standard of perfection. .

Animal foods ^ .

Apoplexy

Bagging down

Balanced rations

Blackhead 47, 68

Body lice 53, 54, 55, 69

Bowel trouble 41, 66

Page
64
16
19
60
46
19

Breeding ration

28

Breeds 15, 16

Bronchitis 37, 65

Broken legs 64

Bruises 62

Building 3, 15

Bumble foot 61

Burns 62

Canker 35, 36

Carbohydrates in feed 18

Catarrh 35, 45

Chickenpox 57, 66

Chicks 25

Cholera 25, 39-43, 66

Closed house 6

Cold 32-37, 65

Colony house 6

Congestion of brain 61

Congestion of lungs 37

Conkey's Dog Remedies 72

Conkey's Poultry Remedies 64

Conkey's Stock Remedies

Conkey's Fumigating Candles .... 72

Continuous house

Curtain" front 6, 8

Cuts 62

Depluming mite 57

Diarrhoea 25, 41-43, 66, 68

Dip and Disinfectant 79

Diphtheria

Diseases and treatment 32-80

Diseases of the digestive organs... 39

Diseases of liver 46

Diseases of the respiratory organs, 32

Disinfectant 71, 79, 80

Dog Remedies 72

Double-decked house 14

Drainage

Droppings board 10

Dropsy 59

Ducks 16, 28-31

Dystentery 41

Egg eating 63

Eggs bloody 49

Egg-bound 49

Eggs diminutive

Eggs, How to produce 50

Eggs for hatching 24

Eggs, two in one

Eggs with odors 50

Eggs without' shells 49

Exercise

Fattening 27

Favus

Feather eating 63

Feeding 17-22, 30

Fireless brooder 23, 24

Fits 61

Flea salve 70

Fly Knocker 78

Page

Free advice 64

Fresh air house 11

Frosted comb 60

Fumigating candles 72

Gapes 38, 67

Gastritis 45

Geese 16, 31

Head lice 25,53,69

Head swollen 37

Hen fleas or sticktights 57

Home-made stock salt 75

Housing 4, 30

Incubation 23-25

Indigestion 41

Infectious leukemia 58

Inflammation of oviduct 48

Influenza 37

Laxative 69

Laying tonic 70

Leg weakness 60

Lice 25,53-57, 69-70

Limber neck 51, 66

Lungs, congestion of 37

Marketing 27

Mating 24

Mites 54, 56, 70

Mould (aspergillosis) 51

Moulting , 62

Nests 10

Nox-i-cide 71

Obstructions in throat 45

Open front house 6

Parasites 52

Pigeons 35

Pi-no .- 80

Pip 35

Pneumonia 38

Poisoning 51

Prevention of disease 63

Prolapsus of oviduct 48

Proteids in feeds 18

Poultry Remedies 64

Rheumatism 60, 68

Roosts 10

Round worms 52

Roup 32, 65

Scaly leg 53, 67

Scientific endorsement 75

Scratching shed 14

Sprayers 80

Sprouted oats 22

Standard poultry house 12

Stick-tights 57

Stock Remedies 73

Stock Vigor 74

Sulphur candles 72

Tables and measures 65

Tape worm 53

Tolman fresh air house 11

Tuberculosis 36

Turkeys 17, 26-28, 35, 68

Trap nests ' 10

Vent gleet 48

Ventilation 4

White diarrhoea 25, 42, 68

White comb 58

Wind puff 62

Worm drops 73

Worm remedies 68, 77

CONKEY'S

POULTRY BOOK

A HANDY BOOK of REFER-
ENCE on POULTRY RAISING

25th Edition

Published by

THE G. E. CONKEY COMPANY

Manufacturing Chemists
CLEVELAND, OHIO, U. S . A.

COPYRIGHTED, 1912, by THE G. E. CONKEY COMPANY

CONKEY'S POULTRY BOOK is now in its 25th edition-
close to three million copies. It has been very carefully
revised, and can be relied upon for up-to-date information
on all poultry subjects. A plain, common-sense Poultry Book — for
practical poultry raisers.

If you like this book — tell your dealer.

If it gives you any good working ideas for the practical
management of your flock, tell some other poultryman about it.

If it does not solve your problems — whether on Housing, Feeding,
Management or Treatment of Diseases, write The G. E. Conkey Co.
for special advice on the subject. There is absolutely no charge for
such service. Your letter will have prompt attention and the best
information we can give you. Address, Free Information Depart-
ment, The G. E. Conkey Co., Cleveland, O.

Don't

Worry!

Conkey

Will Cure

Me

OULTRY raising is about as
old as the hills, but only
within the past generation have
the full possibilities of the
industry been realized. No one can
predict the future. Observation and
reading are doing much to post the
public on facts regarding it and there
seems to be no limit in sight— all that we know is ^that poultry rr.ising is
now one of the most profitabte industries and that it is rapidly advancing.
Capital is finding its way to investment in poultry raising, and into the
manufacture of correct appliances for its further advancement. Poultry
culture has the confidence of the general public and, while many will always
fail from lack of application and proper regard for necessary cond:tions,
these failures will be in no greater proportion than may be found in any
industry that tempts the unworthy and the unfit by its promise of unusual
profits. The course of any line of human endeavor is marked by the wrecl:s
of those who fail, and! who would fail in any venture where study and ap-
plication are required. To the man who is willing to give it his earnest at-
tention, his zeal and application, it offers the inducement of a healthy and
pleasant occupation and the very best chance for money making.

WHERE TO START

In selecting a site for a poultry plant, you are not obliged to choose
high priced land. If you can select well drained, well watered, gravelly soil,
it would be desirable. If this land is somewhat wooded so much the better,
as shade is a valuable factor in poultry raising, and must be supplied if
there is no natural shade. If you can choose a plot where the ground
slopes to the south, or southeast, it will provide the sun radiation so neces-
sary for natural warmth and sanitation. Avoid a clay soil.

In laying out your plan for a house, *ee that it fronts a little east of
direct south. The direct south would be right were it to be continual sum-
mer, but, when winter comes, you will need all the sun radiation you can
find, and the slight turn to the east will provide it when it will do the most
good. This position will shelter the front of the building from the west and
northwest winds. If you have some good meadow land it will be of great
value, for thereon you can grow clover, or it will produce corn and other
cereals. It has been found that clover can be made the base of profitable
feeding, and a poultry farm so situated that it may produce an abundance
of green food is well selected.

Before you start to build, consider carefully the question of drainage.
The surface water should run from the house — not towards it — and you
must be careful that moisture cannot collect underneath the house to seep up
through the floor. If water can collect under the house, you cannot well dry
it, even with ventilation beneath. Cess pools under the house will endanger
the health of fowls.

3

BUILDINGS

Illustration No. 1.

Various locations may require different kinds of buildings, and condi-
tions of climate should be properly considered. It is impossible for us to
state which exact variety of house is the best for you, without knowing just
how you are located and all the points which enter into the subject. A house
should be selected with due regard to its natural conditions, and all that we
can do is to give you valuable ideas about the housing of fowls, and the
various kinds of buildings, and let you select to suit your needs.

The poultry house does not need to be in any way fancy, either in fit-
tings or design, but there are a few certain rules which cannot be over-
looked if you are to expect success.

VENTILATION — The fowl uses up more oxygen from the air than

any other breathing creature according to size. It has not sweat glands,

never sweats, and gives off all moisture by the breath.

Now let us see if we cannot meet the requirements of nature in a house

for our fowls. They must have plenty of pure, fresh air in order for them

to obtain their natural, and neces-
sary amount of oxygen. We can
understand that moisture coming
from the breath, directly into the
cooler air, without having a chance
to slowly evaporate as it would in
coming through a coat of hair or
feathers, will condense very quickly.
This is why it is so necessary to have
perfect ventilation to carry off this

moisture or the house will become damp and, in cold weather, a hoar frost

will form on the inside walls.

DAMPNESS must be avoided to> keep the fowls healthy. The

warmer the air in a house the more moisture it will hold and, when this

comes in contact with a cooler surface it condenses in the form of hoar

frost in winter, and makes the air soggy and damp in summer, and it is

common to say that the house sweats. The remedies for these conditions

are, first be sure that you have a dry floor, and the second is diffusive

ventilation to dry out the moisture in the air as fast as it appears.

DRAINAGE — If circumstances compel you to build on ground that is

not naturally dry, you should make it so by building up your ground as

shown in illustration No. 1. Carry ^

your foundation walls up to a height^

of eighteen inches, or more, if neces-
sary, above the level of the ground,

and fill in a foot of this with small

stones, coarse gravel and cinders,

and the remaining six inches with

sand or dry, sandy loam. Then slope

up on the outside to the ^ bottom of

the sills, as shown in illustration,

and you will turn away the surface

water and keep your floor dry if

the ground is not entirely too wet

about it. Illustration No. 2.

SUNLIGHT— The next import-
ant thing to consider is sunlight. It not only maKes the house cheerful,
but it provides a natural sanitation which tends to prevent disease, aids

in curing it, and gives fowls light to see grain scattered in litter. Have
just the right amount of glass surface, as too much glass makes a house
too warm in the day time and too cold at night. Glass is a ready con-
ductor of heat and lets warmth out as quickly as it will admit it. Glass
construction is also expensive. Do not allow more than one square foot
of glass surface to twelve square feet of floor space and see that the windows
are correctly placed. Set the windows high and up and down, not side-
ways and low. When they are high the sunlight passes over nearly the
whole floor every day, drying and purifying the whole interior.

If you will look at illustration No. 2 you will see that the sun is at its
lowest point from the middle of September to the middle of March, and
that is the time when it is the most beneficial as it covers the coldest time
of the year. Notice the lines showing the extreme distance that the sun
would reach with the tops of the windows at 4}4, 6l/£ and 8 feet from the
groufTd. With the top of the window at 4l/2 feet, the sunlight would never
reach further back than 10 feet ll/2 inches. At 6l/2 feet, it would reach 14l/2
feet, while at 8 feet, it would strike the back wall of a sixteen foot house,
§4 foot above the floor. If lights of glass in window are too small, the
sash seriously obstructs the light, while if lights are too large the glass will
prove expensive on account of breakage. The proper medium between the
two extremes is a size of 8 by 10 inches in a 12-light sash, using two of
these windows for a house of 10x12 feet. Single sash is cheaper and also
handier, as it can be hinged and hooked to the ceiling, or slid sideways when
opened, instead of being raised and lowered as with ordinary sash.

BUILDING THE HOUSE

In planning your poultry houses, it is advisable to consider their loca-
tion with reference to the economy of time and labor involved in attending
to the flocks. It would, of course, be foolish economy to save steps at
the expense of thorough care of the fowls, but many plants involve useless
time and labor and, in the course of a year, the loss amounts to a con-
siderable item. Convenience of operating is a wise forethought.

Poultry houses may be briefly classed as follows: Continuous houses
and colony houses, and either of these may be made in three styles — open,
closed, and curtain front, and may also include all the intermediate styles
that may come under these classifications, to meet the various ideas of differ-
ent people and to meet different conditions, but the above classification is
correct for all practical purposes and they will all come under these several
heads.

Illustration No. 3.
The old style long poultry house.

THE CONTINUOUS HOUSE— The continuous house means several
houses under one roof, with partition walls, the wall of one house forming
the wall of the next. The advantages of this style are cheap building,

and saving time and labor in caring for the fowls. Its disadvantages are

in the difficulty of keeping free
from vermin and the danger of
contagion in case of sickness.
Many poultrymen claim that the
advantages and drawbacks balance
each other and that the extra care
involved equals the labor of the
colony house plan.

THE COLONY HOUSE—

With the colony house, each house
is separate and distinct and each
is really a poultry plant in itself.
Such houses may be separated

Illustration No. 4.
The old-fashioned colony house.

at distances to suit the poultryman, according to the amount of traveling he
cares to put into the labor of attending the flocks. If open range is allowed
advantage is taken of the instinct of the fowl to return to its own home to
roost. The colony house gives a better chance for protection against disease
though it involves extra labor on account of the distances at which the
houses are separated.

THE CLOSED HOUSE— The closed house represents the older
method of housing the poultry. It has many advocates today and, whatever
the internal improvements may be, the ventilation must always depend upon
opening and closing of doors and windows after the manner of years gone
by.

THE OPEN FRONT HOUSE is a popular modern idea and its
advocates claim much for it. The house is made with unusual depth and
with perfectly tight walls, except at the front, which is low and entirely open,
without curtains or windows. While this allows absolute ventilation, it
avoids drafts on the same principle that it is difficult to blow into a bottle
that is tight _at every point except the opening. The sloping front and back
allow the birds to roost well up in the peak, where the heat from their
bodies keeps them warm.' This is, perhaps, an extreme, and you will find
it modified in the Curtain Front House.

THE CURTAIN FRONT HOUSE— The curtain-front house is com-
ing into favor every day. It will doubtless be in universal use before a
great while, as it solves the problem of ventilation without drafts. It is a
rather curious fact that a frame covered with muslin will afford a better
protection against cold than a sash of the same size with panes of glass. It
has been proved an excellent plan in every case where it has been properly
tried. It allows the air to filter through the mesh of the cloth in a wny
that keeps the air in the house dry and provides sufficient oxygen for the
fowis. At the same time it breaks up the currents of air, and prevents
drafts by mixing the air thoroughly before it can reach the fowls. It
will, however, produce shade where glass will not, and will prevent sua radia-
tion unless you also have glass windows to use in winter days when the sun
is shining. Many poultrymen provide for this by having the cloth covered
frame so that it can be hinged and hooked to the ceiling, while the sash and
glass can be slid from .one side to cover the openings when the covered
frames are elevated. In southern climates, where the windows can be left
open on a winter's day, no sash or glass will be needed and, even as far
north as the state of New York, there are many poultrymen who claim that
no glass is needed at any time or in any climate.

At the Michigan State Experiment Station, when the thermometer regis-
tered tventy degrees below zero, for many days at a time these curtained

windows afforded ample protection and the fowls kept on laying without
the least interruption or falling off. On the coldest nights, however, an
extra curtain was hung in front of the roosts. It was a most severe test
of the value of cloth as against glass, in a very cold climate, and the fact
that the fowls were comfortable, had no frost bitten combs, and kept actively
laying, proves tjie great value of the idea.

It may be well to mention ^ right here that where roost curtains are
used, the too careful poultryman is apt to use them when they do more harm
than good. Never use the roost curtains unless the weather is colder than
twenty degrees above zero.

The only warmth needed in a poultry house is that given forth by the
fowls' bodies; therefore the higher you build your house the colder it will
be. A low house is much easier warmed than a high one. If you will
make it as low as you can and still give you room so that you will not
bump your head, you will have plenty of air space for as many fowls as
you have floor space for, on the rule of five to six square feet of floor per
fowl. You will find the continuous house warmer than the colony house,
as cold walls radiate heat rapidly.

ROOF — The cheapest form of house to build is the square one, and the
nearer it is square the warmer it will be, but there is the valuable factor of
sun radiation to be taken into consideration, and we would advise that the
depth of the house be not more than fourteen feet and twelve would be
better. The sanitary rays of the sun are of much more value than the slight
difference in temperature and cost.

The cost of a poultry house is influenced by the shape of its roof. We
would advise the single span, shed roof as the easiest to build and the most
advantageous. It gives the highest point at the front, or south, and the
best shelter at the back. It sheds all water at the back and keeps the front
dry and cheery. It also allows the arrangement of the windows to be such
as to throw the sunlight back into the house. If it slopes towards the
north, a tarred paper, or prepared roofiing, will last much longer as it is
not exposed to the vertical rays of the sun, and this also makes the house
much cooler in summer.

FAULTY CONSTRUCTION — In illustration No. 5 you will notice
some examples of faulty construction. No. 1 has the windows too low and

set horizontally; it will Af-
ford but little sun radiation.
The front of No. 2 is not
perpendicular and will always
be a source of annoyance. In
No. 3 the ridge roof will

cause a drip to the front,

/P=\ -A 1\ ^v while the glass surface is too

| RJffl I • X -^ great for the size of the

M *i IBS RF3 BBS RHll nollse; ft w*^ be to° warm in

LJ-J M^J^nrajO-JM-AJiJ summer and too cold in win-

ter. No. 4 will have no s^.
Illustration No. 5— Don't build like this. radiation, the slope of the

roof to the south win make

it unbearably warm in summer, and the high north wall will make it cold
in winter. There is not a grain of good judgment _in_ any one of these
houses and we show them that you may avoid any building not justified by
common sense and ordinary philosophy.

FLOOR SPACE— From 5 to 6 square feet of floor space, and from 30
to 36 cubic feet of air space, for each fowl, is about the right basis of

Illustration No.

measurement in planning a poultry house. A house 15x12x7 feet high in
front, and five feet high at the back, with a single span roof, will have 180
square feet of floor space and 1,080 cubic feet of air space, which allows a
flock of thirty fowls ample accommodation.

Look out for dampness, as it is fatal to profits. The warmer the air
in the house the more moisture it will hold and, when this comes in contact
with a cooler surface it condenses in the form of hoar frost in winter, and
makes the air soggy and damp in summer, and it is common to say that the
house sweats. The remedies for these conditions are, first be sure that you
have a dry floor, and the second is diffusive ventilation to dry out the mois-
ture in the air as fast as it appears.

EXPERIMENT WITH CURTAIN FRONT— Illustration No. 6
shows how an experiment was tried on the Lone Oak Poultry Farm at Read-
ing, Mass., with muslin curtains. They were troubled by moisture condensing
on the walls and roof at night, and then dripping on the floor during the
day. They made light frames one-fourth the size of each window and
covered them with one thickness of ordinary muslin. Where the window

was dropped one- fourth and the
curtain set in, as in Figure No. 1,
Illustration No. 6, it resulted in
a slight draft. When they used
the muslin at top and bottom, as
in Figure No. 2, it created consid-
erable draft, but where used in
the whole half of the window, as
in Figure No. 3, they found that
it gave excellent ventilation, with-
out draft, and the condensation of
moisture ceased. This, however,
does not present the full curtain front idea, being only an illustration of
the principle in a small way.

CURTAIN FRONT— It is difficult to predict where the curtain front
house is going to stop. We know that curtain front poultry houses, open
entirely during the day, even in cold weather, and closed only by curtains
during the cold nights, are being tried farther and farther north, without
any falling off of egg laying, and with the excellent result of hardier and
more active fowls and a lower percentage of sickness than was ever before
known. That there is a limit to this experiment no one will deny, but it
has not yet been reached and every step so far has been of benefit to the
fowls and greater profit to the industry.

To keep the house cool in summer and warm in winter is a matter of
great importance. It solves the great problem in all-year-round egg pro-
duction, for you are simply imitating conditions under which the hen complies
with nature in the most productive, natural season. The difference in temper-
ature and sunshine are the main reasons why more eggs are produced in one
season than in another. Thus your housing has much to do with continuous
egg production.

It is our intention first to explain the various general principles and
features of poultry house construction, so that you may get a fair idea of
the problem to be tackled. It is no use going into the details of building
until you have a clear idea of what you are building for. All this pre-
liminary talk will familiarize you with the subject and give you a foundation
for intelligent choice for your own particular needs. You are not building
for a man in Greenland — you are building for yourself, on your own land,
and according to your own bank account.

8

INTERIOR OF HOUSE

There are some general principles that should be followed as the re-
sult of the experience of others, and this experience is a capital in your busi-
ness which costs you nothing and which you cannot afford to neglect. Any
devices that save labor, protect against vermin, promote the health of youi
fowls and add to your profits, should have your keenest investigation. Some
of them may appear to be small matters, but they have cost others much
thought and worry.

FLOORS — Have the floors of your house clear — that is have no fix-
tures on the floor level. Roosts, feeding troughs and drinking founts
should be on platforms elevated from the floor, as it will be very much
easier to keep the floor clean if it is free from fixtures of all kinds.

The kind of floor rests with you as a simple problem of cost. If you
wish the very best, a cement floor is the most sanitary and lasting, though
its first cost is high. If you wish the next best, we would advise the board
floor, as it can be easily cleaned. The earthen floor remains to those who
feel that they cannot afford the others mentioned. While it is much used,
it has the disadvantage of absorbing the droppings of the fowls and will
require digging out and renewing at more or less frequent intervals. The
process of laying board and cement floors will be found under different
headings.

EARTHEN FLOORS — Fill in up to the sills with small stone, or
coarse gravel, pound it down well and cover with earth and, if you mix the
earth with coal ashes, it will make a good, hard floor after being well tamped
down. This raises your floor so that surface water will run away from it.
If the ground is, unfortunately, in a hollow, it will be well to raise your
sills much more than eight inches and, in some cases, eighteen inches would
be little enough.

BOARD FLOORS — In laying a board floor, allow for an eight-inch
space beneath it, with openings for ventilation and for the cat to get in and
out to drive out rats and other marauders. Have floor tight and level.

CEMENT FLOORS AND FOUNDATIONS— Concrete is not as
expensive as stone, where the stone is laid in mortar and pointed up, and
is much more satisfactory. It is equally as rat proof, less liable to heave by
frost or moisture, and is easier to make. For such a light building as a
poultry house, the foundation walls need not be more than eight inches
thick, but they should extend below the frost Jine so that they will not be
disturbed. To make a grout (cement) wall, you must make a frame or mold
to hold the soft material until it has set or hardened. First drive a stake
where each corner of the building will come. You can then stretch a cord
to stakes driven two feet beyond each corner in all directions. Other lines
may be stretched from stakes eight inches inside the corner posts, to mark
the inside limit of the wall. The trench must be dug enough wider to
permit of driving stakes for the retaining frame, and such stakes must be
driven on the outside surfaces of the retaining frame so that the mold will
have an inside surface that will make the wall smooth on both faces. The
wooden frame should be perfectly level on the top so that your building will
also set level.

The best Portland Cement is the cheapest, and use only clean, sharp
sand. Mix one part of cement to four parts of sand when dry. To this
add five parts of clean gravel or fine cracked stone. First mix thoroughly
when dry, and then mix with water until every particle of cement is evenly

9

mixed throughout the mass. The whole secret of good solid work is in the
quality of cement and sand, and in the most thorough mixing. When in
a soft condition it should be thrown into the frame and well tamped. It
will require a day or two for the wall to set, when the frame can be re-
moved and the trench filled in with earth.

The cement floor is drier than any other and, as it is more durable,
great care should be taken in laying it. Your floor should have a properly
drained foundation, which is provided for by filling in with fine stone to
within two inches of the top of the foundation walls, and over this should
be spread the same kind of grout used in the foundation walls. Then lay
your sills on the foundation walls perfectly level. On top of the floor lay
a dressing of one part of cement and four parts of sand. This should be
troweled perfectly smooth and level, and should be well flushed up against
the sills to prevent the entrance of moisture between the sills and founda-
tion. Some prefer to embed the sills in the top of the wall, making wall
flush with top of sill.

ROOSTS — Roosts should be made of 2x3 stuff set edgeways with cor-
ners slightly rounded. Many patent roosts have oil cup attachment to pre-
vent mites from crawling on the fowls at night, but while they are excellent,
they are not absolutely necessary, as the poultryman can keep the houses
entirely free from mites and other vermin by using the proper exterminators
and attending to them frequently.

DROPPINGS BOARD—
One of the greatest necessities
is a droppings board under the
roosts. It should be made eas-
ily removable for cleaning and
is one of the best safeguards
for sanitation. The usual way
of arranging the roosts is to
have them close to the north
wall, and at about half the
height of the wall. Below the
roosts is the movable droppings
board and below the droppings
board are the nests.

NESTS— These should be
easily movable and rest on the
floor. The entrance should face
the rear of the house which
will prevent the fowls from
throwing litter into the nests

while scratching, and it will also help to keep the nests dark and prevent

the egg eating habit.

TRAP NESTS — Trap nests are different in construction from ordinary
nests. They should be located along the side wall. One trap nest for every
five hens will be plenty. : Trap nests are not easily removable so will require
extra care to keep them clean. These nests differ from ordinary nests in
having no way of escape for the hen after she once enters the nest. There
are many styles of trap nest on the market. The poultryman can take his
choice — the simplest being the most practical — or he can make his trap nests
at home at small cost. Of course there is some extra labor connected with
the trap-nest system. The nests must be visited at frequent intervals during
the day and the laying hens liberated. But in these days the trap nest is a
necessity. It weeds out the non-layers and the lazy layers, or rather it gives

VESTS IN REAR
Illustration No. 7.

10

the poultryman a chance to do this— for with his trap nests to show what each
hen is doing he can tell which fowls are money makers, and which are merely
boarders and loafers. Laying qualities will vary greatly, even with hens of
the same strain and under the same good treatment. Keep the hens having the
best trap nest records. Watch the winter trap nest records especially. Keep
these profitable birds for breeding.

One of the greatest helps of the trap nest system is that it makes it
possible for the poultry man to identify each egg, know just which hen
laid it and by her record decide whether it should be kept for hatching.
It isn't always the good looking hen that lays the egg and frequently some of
the best layers are sacrificed at the end of the season, while good looking but
poorly performing fowls are kept over for breeding. Then the poultryman
wonders why it is that his stock grows more and more shiftless about laying.
The man with the trap nest knows — not only what each hen is doing but
what he himself is doing by his system of working.

THE FRESH AIR HOUSE

The Tolman Twentieth Century Fresh Air House is probably the most
popular of the extreme type in this house and the steady increase in the
number used each year indicates they are giving general satisfaction. With
this house the south end is run wide open summer and winter, storm or
shine. It can be used in the coldest sections of the United States and many
parts of Canada, but in bleak and extremely cold locations where the temper-
ature goes to zero and frequently below it would be well to arrange a coarse
muslin curtain to drop in front of the roost platform at night during the
most severe weather. There are several strong points in favor of this house,
the chief one being that it promotes health, vigor, a good egg yield with
increased fertility and solves the question of perfect ventilation. Breatli-
ing a greater amount of oxygen, creates a better circulation of blood and
the fowls are kept in the best physical condition all the time. _ The peculiar
construction of the house and position of the roosts makes it comfortable
for the fowls at night and prevents any danger of their roosting in a draft.
Owing to the good ventilation the house is dry and free from frost at all
times.

This fresh air house is a
very simple one to construct,
being a plain hip-roofed
building with a long pitch of
the roof to the front or south.
For the roof, east, west and
north sides, inch boards
shingled are recommended,
however, any material suit-
able for poultry house con-
struction can be used so long
as the walls are perfectly
tight. When a small house is
built it should be eight feet
wide by fourteen deep, four
feet high in front, five feet at rear, and about seven feet at the peak of
roof. The originator favors a size somewhat larger than this to meet the
requirements for all kinds of weather and locations with a capacity for
from 65 to 80 layers. This house should be fourteen feet wide by twenty-

11

Illustration No. 8.
The Fresh Air House.

one feet deep, six feet high on the north and four and one-half on the
south. The highest part of the roof should be ten feet from the ground.
In either size house a full size window should be placed in the middle of the
west side and the door in the center of the east side opposite. In operating
this house in the summer both the door and the window are removed and
replaced with wire netting. The south front which is always open is covered
with one inch mesh wire netting and a gate in this gives the fowls access
to the yard. A double boarded floor is recommended and roosts and drop-
pings board should be built along the north wall as in other houses we
describe. In such a deep, narrow house the roosts will extend farther out
towards the front than is usual and for this reason we would place the
nests along the west wall, keeping them up from the floor.

A STANDARD POULTRY HOUSE

Another very practical house is the Standard Poultry House. We give
it this name because it is equally serviceable for the farmer or for the regular
poultryman. The poultryman's experience in the business may justify him
in paying out more money for poultry house construction than the farmer,
or the amateur, may care to invest; so we describe different ways of making
floors, etc., that a choice may be taken in the matter of cost.

The design we give is subject to as many additional pens as may be
desired, though the length given, 32 feet, allows for two pens accommo-
dating from 35 to 40 fowls
each. The house will be 12x
32, or 12x16 for each pen.
Considering the height of
seven feet in front, the depth
of twelve feet is sufficient, as
we require the sunlight to
reach back as far as possible.
For the cheaper construc-
tion, this house should rest on
cement piers or, where they
are not available, on posts
driven into the ground. There
should be twelve of these

Illustration No. 9.
Standard Poultry House.

at the middle of each end,
and three at front and rear
at equal distances between
the corners. Remember that
the number of piers men-
tioned provides for the
whole building of two com-
partments. These piers
should extend below the
frost line and, at least eight
inches above the ground.
The sills resting on these
piers should be of 4 x 4
scantling, while all the rest
of the frame can be of 2x4
stuff, except the rafters
which should be 2x5.

piers, one at each corner, one

Illustration No. 10.
End View of Standard Poultry House.

12

WALLS — The walls of this house, on every side except the south, are
made of one inch thickness of matched pine lumber, and it is best to put
the planed side inside, as it improves the appearance and is more easily
whitewashed. The outside, except the south, is covered with a thickness of
good roofing, and should be painted some light color that is more attractive
than the original color of the roofing, and it also adds to the durability,
which counts in poultry house construction. The only part that is double
boarded is the portion that is directly back of and above the roost platform
and as far as it extends forward. An air space is formed between the stud-
ding and the outside boarding and, if you will leave a little opening at the top
and bottom of the inner boarding, the warm air of the house interior will
circulate through the space and
will keep it warmer than if the
air were dead. The circulation
mentioned will keep the inside
plate warm and will prevent con-
densation of moisture to a won-
derful degree.

FRONT— The front of this
house is made of one thickness
only of ordinary cove siding and
is without paper, making a loose
construction. This kind of a wall
warms up the inside air when the
sun is shining and the warmth
does not readily pass out because
the other three sides are free
from draft. It may seem a little
strange that if a window is left
open in the front of a street car
vestibule, the motorman who sits
directly opposite will notice but
little wind, if he keeps the door closed behind him. If your three walls and
top are tight, the air can only come in gradually at the front and can,
therefore, change the temperature but very slowly. The principle is the same
in either case.

In making the frame work, the studding is placed four feet apart and
the rafters two feet apart from centers. The boards are laid horizontally.
Nearly the whole front is filled with window and other openings, and is of
cheap and easy construction. This house provides fresh air in abundance
without drafts, and will insure all reasonable dryness. It is as warm as it
can be, while securing ventilation and freedom from dampness, without hav-
ing artificial heat, or heat from overcrowding the fowls.

The well ventilated house allows the moisture to pass away without con-
densing on the walls, and is much warmer than a tightly closed house, as
moisture makes a house cold by evaporation, as you would cool a room by
sprinkling the floor.

The house should have an abundance of sunlight for several reasons :
Fowls do not like dark places except when sitting or laying or else when
•they are sick, and the light is necessary for sanitation. If the windows are
placed near together, as shown in illustration, both pens will receive the
light from both windows providing that the front portion of the inside par-
tition is of wire netting. There will be ample room for door in partition,
thus avoiding draft in the continuous houses.

WINDOWS — The windows should measure about 3x5 feet and can
be fitted with 8x10 glass. They are stationary and should be screened with

13

Illustration No. 11.
Ground Plan of Standard Poultry House.

a wire netting on the inside to protect the glass should the fowls attempt
to fly through the window. Each apartment is also covered with a muslin-
covered frame 10 feet by 3 feet 4 inches, that can be raised or lowered as
required. The bottom of the opening is 3 feet 4 inches from the floor. As
all openings come nearly to the top of the roof, they will provide for the
escape of warm and foul air in hot weather.

SCRATCHING SHED— You will note that this house is a scratching
shed over the whole area, as all roosts and fixtures are raised from the
floor on platforms, leaving a clear space for the litter in which the fowls
exercise.

THE DOUBLE-DECKED HOUSE

The next house that we illustrate seems, at first glance, to be a small
affair, but it is really a case of making the most of a given space, and will
accommodate forty fowls in each pen, or eighty for the double house, at a
cost that should not exceed fifty cents per hen for building. There are a
great many features of this house that will appeal to the practical poultryman

and it would be wise to investi-
•gate its merits before fully de-
ciding upon your method of
building.

This is really a two-story
house, having its scratching
shed on the lower floor. If
you will take the measurements
from the bottom of the door
to the roof, you will notice that
the full height of the ordinary
house is provided for upon the
upper floor, 7 feet in front and
5 feet at back. One difficulty
of a scratching shed is the fact
Illustration No. 12. that a fowl always scratches

The Double-decked Poultry House. with its head to the light, SO

that the litter will always be found piled up in the darkest corner where it
is the hardest to get at. The utility of this form is that the rooms are en-
tirely independent, and there is nothing to prevent having tight windows at
opposite points on the lower floor. The temperature is not such an im-
portant part as upon the upper floor. The lower compartment also pro-
vides an ideal place for a dust bath, thus avoiding dust in the roosting and
living quarters. There is no reason why the upper floor should not also
be used as a scratching floor, which will allow more square feet per fowl
than is usually provided for.

This house is much used in the west; it admits of all modern improve-
ments and conveniences, and we can see no reason why it should not become
popular in any location and climate. Besides all this, the house is ^ really
much handsomer than the usual squatty, shed-like structure, is a saving in
labor and money, and is of compact cheap construction.

The elevation of the house as shown in illustration No. 12 is ten feet
at front and eight feet at back, but it can easily be made higher if more
height is desired on the lower floor. It is ten feet deep by twenty-four
feet long, providing two rooms (upper and lower) to each pen 10 x 12 feet,
making 480 square feet of floor space under a roof one-half the size usually
necessary for the same accommodation. There is a labor saving in cleaning
and the house can be extended by as many pens as may be desired.

The original idea of this house was to have a dirt floor on the lower

story, bui we would preier a board or cement floor lor samtar> reasons.
No matter how carefully you may rake or scrape a dirt floor, a portion of
the filth always soaks into the ground, and it is next to impossible to get
rid of it. The accumulation eventually becomes dangerous to the health of
the fowls and we consider the extra cost of a floor a very wise investment.

Note some other excellent ideas in this illustration. The roosting room
has splendid ventilation and the use of curtained frames provides all air
needed without drafts. For very cold climates roost curtains can also be
provided as described for other houses.

The projecting roof on front makes a good rain protector and keeps the
water from the lower story. Front curtains are 9f 6"x3' — the full width of
the cloth, and the openings could be made still larger, as required. Common
unbleached muslin makes an excellent curtain. The interior can be arranged
as described for the standard house, with elevated roosts, feeding troughs,
drinking founts, etc. If deemed advisable, curtains can also be provided for
the lower floor for use in colder weather, and could be hooked to the ceiling
when not required.

This house will cover eighty head of grown fowls nicely, and if cleaned
regularly, as any house should be, and the inside whitewashed once in six
months, it will provide for all the requirements of the careful poultryman
and keep his fowls in absolute health, activity, and comfort. See illustra-
tions Nos. 10 and 11, Standard Poultry House, for interior plans.

In the houses which we have illustrated, all the principles of correct
housing have been fully set forth. We might go ahead and show plans for a
dozen shapes and styles and be no better advisers to you than we have been
here. Construct your houses in any manner suitable to your exact case,
let the houses be continuous, or colony style, but keep in mind the great
ideas of DRY FLOORS, ABUNDANT VENTILATION, NO DRAFTS,
and you cannot go astray, always providing you do not overcrowd. Build
large enough to accommodate the full number of fowls you expect to keep.

SELECTION OF BREEDS

This subject may well be considered the foundation to success or failure
in the poultry business and it should receive your careful thought. You are
going into the business for profit, , so do not be content with scrub stock foi
it makes a poor investment. We do not mean that you should purchase
"fancy fowls" or "show birds", but endeavor to obtain thoroughbred fowls
or eggs from thoroughbreds.

The poultry business is no exception to the rule that if you desire pay-
ing results, you must have a foundation for success, and no man can suc-
ceed who builds with poor stock. It costs
no more to feed and care for a standard
fowl than a mongrel, and you cannot realize
high class results from the latter. From
such attempts have come some of the fail-
ures recorded against the industry. You
would not try to run a dairy without the
very best grade of stock, nor would you ex-
pect the best crops without planting the
best seed obtainable. This is the point on
which many poultrymen fail, so make it a
point to start right. Select a breed that is

making a good showing for your particular Illustration No. 13.

purpose ; and have your stock of some re- Barred Plymouth Rock — American,
liable strain. Make sure that the birds are healthy and vigorous individuals.

In every line you will find a man who has a hobby. Watch out for

1$

Illustration No. 14.
Cochin — Asiatic.

him. He is a good talker, believes in himself and his hobby, and is forever
seeking converts to his wonderful ideas. Follow the advice and methods of
the man whose ideas are paying him and whose experience is showing in
actual dollars and cents. It is a case where money talks and outweighs fads
and fancies. Experience is often an expensive teacher, so let the knowledge
)t tne man who is winning be a help, and take the short road to profit.
It is generally more profitable to keep but
one breed of fowls, and much care should
be exercised and investigation made regard-
ing the stock for the climate and location,
instead of going into the business blindly.

DIFFERENT BREEDS--The space
in this little book will not allow us to fully
describe all the different breeds of fowls.
Every poultryman should procure a copy of
"THE AMERICAN STANDARD OF
PERFECTION," which gives the weight,]
shape, markings, and color of each breed
for male and female, as well as all points
for judging value. This book, which is
published by the American Poultry Associa-
tion, is the guide for all poultry judges in
the awarding of prizes. It is revised every

five years and sells for the uniform price of $1.50. The most popular breeds
JUiSt ?°o seem t° be. the Leghorns, Wyandottes, Plymouth Rocks, Rhode
Island Reds and Orpingtons. But we must not infer from this that there
are not other breeds with qualities equally good. According to The Standard
of Perfection, the different classes of fowls may be noted as follows •

AMERICAN CLASS— Plymouth Rocks, Wyandottes, Javas,' Domi-
niques, Rhode Island Reds, Buckeyes.

ASIATIC CLASS— Brahmas, Cochins, Langshans.

MEDITERRANEAN CLASS— Leghorns, Minorcas, Spanish, Anda-
lusians, Anconas.

ENGLISH CLASS— Dorkings, Redcaps,
Orpingtons.

POLISH CLASS— Polish.

DUTCH CLASS— Hamburgs.

FRENCH CLASS— Houdans, Creve-
coeurs, La Fleche, Favorelles.

GAME AND GAME BANTAM
CLASS — Games and Game Bantams.

ORIENTAL GAME AND BAN-
TAM CLASS— Indians, Sumatras, Ma-
lays, Malay Bantams.

ORNAMENTAL BANTAM CLASS

— Sebrights, Rose Comb, Booted, Brahma,
Cochin, Japanese, Polish.
MISCELLANEOUS CLASS— Silkies, Sultans, Frizzles.
In the Standard of Perfection the above classes are again subdivided into
the several different varieties of each particular breed, but our space allows
us only to mention them in a casual way.

DUCK CLASS— Pekin, Aylesbury, Rouen, Cayuga, Call, East India,
Crested, Muscovy, Indian Runner, Swedish.

GEESE CLASS— Toulouse, Embden, African, Chinese, Wild or Cana-
dian, Egyptian.

16

Illustration No. 15.
Orpington— English.

TURKEY CLASS— Bronze, Narragansett, Buff, Slate, White, Black
and Bourbon Red.

FEEDS AND FEEDING

must depend very much upon three points: The kind of machine you use,
the quality and quantity of raw material which goes into the machine, and
the kind of a man you have to run it In this connection the domestic

fowl may be compared to the machine.
The feed is the raw material which goes
into the machine and it must be balanced
correctly to produce eggs or meat — which-
ever you are trying to obtain. The man
in charge should know his business, not
only to correctly feed the machine, but to
properly care for it, repair it, and keep it
in working order. It sounds easy, but every
poultryman knows it is a problem worthy
of much study and attention.

The first thing is to realize a few facts
regarding the domesticating and training
of what was originally a wild fowl in the
Illustration No. 16. jungles of India. Nature made her lay

Leghorn-Mediterranean. but twdve eggg a vear> an(j then Qnly jn

proper season. We have trained her to lay 160 eggs a year and at all seasons
and, while many people who do not know, tell you to follow nature, don't
attempt it, for it is a hindrance to the poultryman instead of a help. In
this day of advancement a poultryman must follow science instead of
nature. It is dead against the nature of a fowl to lay an egg in winter, and
that is when we demand them because we can secure high prices then. We
must have our feeds very much better, and easier to assimilate, than nature
contemplated, and we must give more warmth and care than nature pro-
vided. We are demanding very unnatural results under very unnatural con-
ditions and must make up the difference.

A certain percentage of the failures that poultrymen have met with is
directly due to the matter of feeding and an entire flock can be ruined in a
very short time by improper and careless feeding.

To maintain perfect health and vigor in your fowls you must consider
for what purpose you are feeding, and give them a balanced ration, which
means a supply of food containing every element necessary to properly
supply all that you demand and at the same time insuring the health of the
fowl under forced confinement and unnatural conditions. You should un-
derstand the value of foods and supply them intelligently.

We might go into the question of special feeding for different purposes;
feeding the little chicks; feeding for broilers; for roasters, etc., etc., all
of which require special consideration. But, in the limits of this little book,
we can only touch the subject lightly here and there and give you a fair
idea as to general requirements. While we will do our best to give such
hints as our space will permit, we wish to impress you with the fact that
there is a deep study coming to the man who wishes to succeed ; that it is
not guess-work or hap-hazard chance, but a subject for thought and serious
attention of the man who has his money invested.

In poultry journal items, and in scientific treatises on feeding, an ordi-
nary man runs up against a lot of terms which he does not usually under-
stand, and, even when he becomes familiar with them by seeing them often,

he still fails to fully grasp their meaning and application. We will
endeavor to explain a few of them in the simplest possible manner.

PROTEIDS— Proteids are the foods which renew the waste of the
fowl. In any animal there is a continuous process of waste which must
be as continuously renewed. In the fowl there is not only the natural wear
of the body, and the natural excretions of moisture, etc., but there is manu-
factured and voided each day, an egg of the average weight of one and
three fourths ounces, which would equal three pounds in human beings of
average weight could they be forced to do a like stunt.

The elements of food which build up the
young chick in bone, flesh (not fat) and feath-
ers, and which supply the tremendous waste in
the grown fowl, are called proteids, and life
cannot begin or continue without them. Pro-
tein does not come alone in any one food, but
is mixed with other elements. The following
list of foods are very high in proteids and are,
therefore, called protein foods: Cottonseed
Meal, Flax Meal, Linseed Meal, Gluten Meal,
Brewers' Dried Grains, Malt Sprouts, Wheat
Middlings, Bran, etc. Now: because of their
high protein value, these various foods are
rich and they must not be fed as liberally as
you would ordinary ground grains. The fowl

can take up into its system a certain amount of protein. If you feed more
it is wasted, and what is worse, taxes digestion and bowel trouble is sure to
follow. Many formulas recommended by common authorities are far too
strong in oil meals. Include protein feeds, but watch the limit carefully.
Protein is always an expensive food element, so do not waste it.

CHICK FEED — Mixture
of 1 part each, by weight, of
Corn, Wheat, Hulled Oats
or Pin Head Oat Meal, and
Kaffir Corn, cracked, screen-
ed, and sized suitable for
chicks. To this add 1 part
of Millet Seed, ^ part Grit
(chick size), and 1A part
Charcoal (chick size). We
would also recommend any
of the high-grade chick
feeds on the market.

CARBOHYDRATES— These can be called the fuel of the body as
they furnish the heat. It is necessary to keep the body warm besides build-
ing it up. We burn coal to keep a living room at seventy degrees of tem-
perature and carbohydrates must be fed to keep the fowl s temperature at its
normal point, (which is above fever heat in man), or the fowl becomes
chilled and dies. Carbohydrates furnish the steam to warm the egg factory
and the strength with which to manufacture the proteids into eggs and new
material. Carbohydrates also produce fat and make a fowl lazy and inactive
unless the fowl can be made to exercise. Exercise consumes the carbohy-
drates in the blood, leaving the blood rich in
protein to make the egg and to build up, and
keep up, the wearing parts. Carbohydrates are
the starchy foods, such as Corn, Cornmeal,
Cob Meal, Hominy Meal, Ground Oats, Bar-
ley, Buckwheat, etc. You will find it pays best
to feed a variety of grains, mixing them or
feeding one or two at one meal and a differ-
ent kind the next. The body gets fuller food
value when there is this variety. Vary from
time to time, but never make sudden changes.
For instance, on a cold night a good idea is to
feed all whole corn, but in milder weather mix
oats with it.

GROWING FEED— Equal
parts Wheat, Cracked Corn,
Kaffir Corn, and Hulled Oats.
Use no Oats with hulls nor
Barley or Buckwheat until
chicks are at least two
months old. Use Beef
Scraps in hopper or in
mash feed, Ground Green
Bone, or Blood in mash.

18

MASH FEED — By weight
as follows: 2 parts Bran, 1
part Ground Oats, 1 part
Corn Meal, 1 part Middlings,
y2 part Gluten Meal (if ob-
tainable. To this mash can
be added cooked vegetables,
or steamed Alfalfa or Clover,
but not to exceed % of the
whole mash; Beef Scrap 12%
to 15% of the mash, but
omit if Beef Scrap is al-
ready fed from the hopper.

ANIMAL FOODS are full of protein and
take the place of bugs, worms, etc., that the
fowl finds in her natural season for laying.
They are Milk, Beef Scrap, Blood Meal, Green
Bone ,etc. Such foods (rich in protein) are
positively necessary, but take care not to over-
feed. A good plan is to feed beef scrap in a
hopper, letting the fowls help themselves, just
as they pick up bugs for themselves in sum-
mer. Many prefer to include animal food in
the mash feed. Milk in its various forms is
often fed this way. Of course milk is one
of the best animal foods. In feeding green
bone, be careful not to feed too much, or bowel
trouble will surely follow.

GREEN FOODS— These take in all

kinds of fruits, vegetables and growing grasses and grain. Alfalfa Meal,
Clover Meal, Sprouted Oats, Cabbage, Beets, etc. All fowls should have some
green food daily, to get the best results. One of the most valuable of green
foods is sprouted oats, for which read special section. Like the others
green foods help furnish the domestic fowl with its properly balanced food
supply according to the needs of nature.

BALANCED RATIONS— A balanced ration is one so made that it
furnishes just what the fowl needs. Balanced rations are selected and
compounded from the foregoing according to knowledge of what is re-
quired, at various seasons, to produce eggs and meat in addition to maintain-
ing normal health and vigor. We must take into consideration that we de-
mand vastly more from the fowl than nature ever did; that we twist the
seasons so that the fowl will lay in winter, and that we have to supply food
to meet these requirements over and above what nature would provide when
the fowl was idle. We are giving a few formulas for feeds and, while they
are excellent in themselves, they should be frequently varied. Ingredients
of equal value should be substituted as often as possible. Fowls cannot
thrive on a continuous diet, but, like ourselves, require a change. Their
appetites flag on one line of food and your profits grow correspondingly less.

OTHER FEEDING POINTS— It is not only what to feed, but how
much and how often, that determines success. A laying hen should have at
least six ounces of food per day, which seems an enormous quantity in pro-
portion to her weight, until we consider the great drain upon her.

Beginners are very apt to forget some of the essentials of poultry feed-
ing, the lack of which causes serious complica-
tions and disorders. Grit, Oyster Shell, Mor-
tar, Charcoal, Green Cut Bone (or other ani-
mal food, and pure fresh water, are the very
items which should never be forgotten. It is
a wise idea always to have such food before
the fowls. We might make one exception to
the above and that is not to feed too much
Green Cut Bone, but alternate it with other
animal foods from time to time. One pound
of Green Cut Bone to 20 fowls is enough at
any one feed. More will cause bowel trouble.
The whole secret in feeding Green Cut Bone
is in small amounts often, not large feeds just
Once in a while.

SCRATCHING FEED—
Mixture of Wheat, Oats,
Corn (Whole or Cracked),
Barley, Kaffir Corn, Buck-
wheat, and Millet Seed.

Sunflower Seed can be
added. Cut out Buckwheat
in summer.

19

EXERCISE — Exercise is as necessary as food, and fowls cannot thrive
without it. Make them work for their living. Unless the fowls have free
range, it is wise to feed all grain by scattering it in a six inch litter of
straw, cut alfalfa, leaves, or anything that will make them work by
scratching.

Remember that their food will do them little good if they are troubled
with lice. Lice will take away their vitality and their flesh faster than food
can put them back. Watch out for lice, and fight them at all times with the
best lice killers that you can procure. A general idea of what should be
done, mixed with a little good, common sense, is the best rule known.

Conkey's Lice Preparations will soon put the parasites out of business
and a little of Conkey's Roup Cure, occasionally placed in the drinking
water, will tone up the birds and prevent colds and other troubles.

FEEDING THE CHICKS

Young chicks should be given no food whatever, for the first 48 hours
after hatching. The very last process of incubation is the absorption of the
remaining portion of the yolk of the egg. This absorption is Nature's way
of feeding the chick at the start, and it should not be interfered with by
giving them other food. A little fine grit, or coarse sand, should be within
their reach when they are first placed in the brooder and this should be
kept constantly before them. They should also have plenty of cool fresh
water. This should be given them in founts made for the purpose, which will
not allow the chicks to become wet and chilled.

The chicks should never be fed sloppy food, even if you have to con-
fine yourself to the feeding of dry mixed grains. Chicks are usually fond
of a mash feed and are inclined to stuff themselves with it if allowed to do
so. Where this is given avoid feeding too much at a time and never give
more than they will clean up, as it sours and sickens them. There can be
no objection to the use of a light mash feed once a day, but it should not
be given oftener unless you are forcing chicks for broilers. Chicks that are
to be raised to a useful maturity should be fed principally on dry grains,
such as any good "chick feed." Many successful poultry raisers keep dry
wheat bran before the chicks from the time they are hatched and this largely
takes the place of a mash feed.

Under natural conditions, the hen will lead her brood, scratching a little
here and there, and the chicks, in turn, picking up a grain at a time, will ob-
tain a balanced ration of all dry feed. If we follow the mother hen as to
method of feeding we are not likely to make much of a mistake. Ex-
haustive experiment has been made along this line and different people hold
different views, but the majority of opinion is greatly in favor of the dry
method as a means of preserving the chicks against diseases of the digestive
organs, most often termed Cholera. The dry feed should be made up of dry
grains, properly proportioned, and ground or crushed to the right size.
Feed the little chicks four or five times a day, but give them only such a
quantity as will keep them active. The brooder floor should be covered
with a light litter of cut clover, hay, or straw or scratching material. Exer-
cise is just as necessary for chicks as it is for fowls and unless they have
free range all grains given them should be scattered in the litter or raked
into the earth in the run, so the chicks will be kept busy scratching for most
of the day.

When the chicks are one week old, begin to give them a little green
food and increase gradually as they grow older. Onion tops, clover leaves,

20

lettuce, cabbage chopped fine, and grass or tops from sprouted oats cut into
short lengths, less than J/2 inch, are all excellent for the purpose.

The use of animal food in some form is of considerable help in the
proper development of the chick. Beef scrap, lean meat, finely ground
green bone, blood meal, bone meal and milk in its various forms are used
in various ways in feeding the chicks. Milk can be used liberally without
harm, but the other articles mentioned must be fed with some caution.
When feeding fresh bone or meat make sure that it is perfectly fresh and
sweet and when beef scrap is used it should be of the best quality. Animal
foods should not be given until after the first week and then only in small
quantities at first. Beef scrap is one of the most popular forms of animal
food in use and many poultry raisers allow their chicks free access to hop-
pers filled with this material. A too liberal use of the more concentrated
forms of animal foods is likely to cause bowel trouble, and this must be
guarded against. The right sort of feeding is the secret of raising chicks
and should be attended to carefully and not wastefully. Keep the chicks
just hungry enough to be willing to work for what they get. A careless
feeder not only wastes the food, but will ruin the flock. Irregular care of
little chicks leads to failure. One hour's chill, caused by a lowering of
temperature in the brooder, may bring the setback which cannot be made up
for quite a while, if ever, Continuous care is the secret of success, and
systematic observation of conditions is necessary at all times. It does not
do to give excellent care for ten hours, and then forget what should be
done at the eleventh hour.

FEEDING FOR BROILERS

Where chicks are raised for broilers they should be fed very much the
same as other chicks for the first two weeks, but after that time such a
method of feeding must be used as will produce a plump carcass weighing
from one and one-half to two pounds in the shortest possible time. Heavy
feeding is necessary to fatten the chicks quickly and the digestive apparatus
can be taxed to the limit for this process does not have to be carried on for
any length of time. At the beginning of the third week a mash feed should
be given once a day and the fourth week add one more feed of this material.
When the chicks are a month old, three moderate feeds of mash should be
given each day, finishing up the meal with a little grain scattered in the litter
to induce exercise. To get the best results the chicks should be fed four
or five times a day and at such times when the mash is not used a mixture
of whole and cracked grains of a suitable size, as well as some green food,
should be given. During the last two weeks of feeding the bulk of the
food given should be mash. In feeding broilers the mash used is somewhat
different from that ordinarily given to chicks, being more fattening. A
mixture of five parts corn meal, four parts wheat bran and six parts ground
oats (without hulls) should give good results. If oats without the hulls aje
not obtainable, substitute middlings of about half the quantity. Oats with
the hulls should never be used" for small chicks. Iri feeding the mash
moisten the ground grains just enough to make a crumbly mass, for sloppy
foods must never be used. A little bone meal and ground charcoal and a
very little salt will be found excellent m the mash. Animal food should
be given broilers same as other chicks and green foods supplied daily.
Broilers should not be given free range or the use of large yards, but they
cannot be kept in healthy condition or successfully grown if they are over-
crowded. If conditions are favorable the broiler should be ready for the
market in eight to ten weeks.

21

SPROUTED OATS

Since the value of sprouted oats for use as a green food for poultry has
become generally known, it has steadily grown in favor. They are greatly
relished by the fowls, are inexpensive and can be fed to chicks as well as
fowls. When chicks are small only the finely chopped tops or blades should
be used. The process of sprouting the oats is a simple one, but there are
several facts in regard to it that are well worth knowing. For sprouting
purposes new, heavy oats should be used. Trays should be started at such
intervals as will keep the supply constant. The amount started at one time
would vary with the size of the flock, but should not be more than will
be used in three to five days. If the oats are kept too wet after they are
partly grown, or if not used after a certain time, they will become sour
and rapidly rot. Just what quantity of sprouted oats should be used for a
given number of fowls would vary some with conditions. A strip or sec-
tion containing sixty square inches is a safe amount to use for one hundred
hens, but more can be used if it does not cause looseness of the bowels.
During the summer oats can be sprouted out of doors, but in cold weather
they must be kept inside where the temperature is high enough to keep them
growing, and the warmer they are kept the faster will be their growth. A
warm cellar makes a very desirable place. The use of trays for sprout-
ing the oats has been found to give the best results and they should be made
only large enough to hold oats for three to five days' feeding. About four
trays will then be necessary to supply the fowls with oats at such a time as
they are most suitable for feeding. For one hundred fowls make four trays
about fifteen by twenty inches. The sides and ends should be one inch
boards six inches wide. Cover the bottom of this tray with lath previously
soaked in water to prevent splitting and bulging and have them just close
enough to keep oats from going through the cracks. Nail a piece of lath
flat ways across either end on the bottom of the tray. This permits drain-
age, but does not dry out the oats too rapidly. Make a sash to cover each
tray, fitting it with glass or oiled muslin. This sash is for admiting light
and holding the warmth and moisture. Five pints of oats should be evenly
spread over a tray of the size mentioned above and thoroughly sprinkled
with warm water. Carefully cover the entire surface of the oats
with two to four thicknesses of burlap and again sprinkle. This sprinkling
process should then be repeated once a day, or oftener if the temperature is
high. Do not disturb the oats after they are placed in the trays. They will
sprout evenly if kept wet and warm and stirring will break the tender
sprouts. After the sprouts are about an inch high, remove the burlap and
cover tray with sash. Keep the sash on till oats are about three inches
high, when it can be left off for good. Begin feeding when sprouts are
about four inches high. Some judgment must be used in the treatment to
suit the varying conditions. To remove from tray, cut down through
sprouts and roots and peel the oats from the lath bottom. If each tray is
refilled as soon as' emptied there will be a constant supply of the oats, pro-
viding the proper number of trays are in use.

When we consider the food value of the sprouted oats and the fact
that a feed for one hundred fowls can be produced from one pint of oats
at cost of less than one cent, it can be readily seen why this form of green
food is so universally recommended.

22

INCUBATORS AND BROODERS

Nothing has played so important a part in raising the poultry business,
from a simple pastime to a great industry, as the incubator and brooder.
In the value of its output the poultry industry is second to none in the
world. During the experimental years, results were far from promising
or satisfactory, but today there are a large number of excellent machines in
the field, which work mechanically, require practically no attention, and
which bring to life a high percentage of the fertile eggs intrusted to their
care.

A perfect incubator has, first, a perfect radiation of heat, controlled by
an active thermostat that will regulate the slightest change of temperature
in the egg chamber ; second, the necessary amount of ventilation. Each manu-
facturer has his own way of controlling these matters and there are many
reliable makes it would be safe to choose.

No poultryman can hope to succeed in building up a large business, in
any way satisfactory or profitable, without an incubator and brooder of some
standard make. They are absolute necessities in the present day.

Some people make the great mistake of buying a good incubator, ex-
pecting to make a brooder of their own, or to provide some scheme to get
along without one. We advise most strongly against this error ! It is a
comparatively easy matter to hatch chicks, but to raise them is the problem
and one great help in this is a high grade brooder.

The brooder is made in two patterns — the indoor and outdoor. Those
arranged for indoor use are, as a rule, the more successful though the
outdoor brooders answer admirably.

Absolute cleanliness in brooders is a positive necessity, as right there
is laid the foundation of the future health of the chick. Filthiness and
disease generally go together.

A brooder should be roomy and well supplied with heat, always from
overhead. Provision should be made so that chicks do not crowd, as they
are very apt to do if the temperature is not right. If too cold they will at
once huddle together and many may be smothered. One of the greatest
mistakes made by poultrymen is trying to keep too many together. As they
grow older they should be separated — fifty chicks in any compartment being
enough — and as they mature, even a smaller number is better.

FIRELESS BROODERS — All the heat that is needed in a poultry
house can be obtained from the fowls' bodies if the house is correctly designed
and built. The same principle is now used in the fireless brooder for little
chicks, which is a well-ventilated, padded box that holds and evenly dis-
tributes the heat from the bodies of many chicks together.

It is a very important item that the heat be so distributed that the
same temperature is kept up in the various parts of the brooder and that
the ventilation is well distributed. Fresh air and equal heat are the serious
problems.

In mild weather fireless brooders can be used out of doors, but equable
temperature is a necessity for, should chicks run from an inner temperature
of 80 or 90 degrees to an outside air at freezing point, you could look for
colds, roup, bowel troubles, and death. The logical place for the fireless
brooder is in a room or brooder house where the temperature outside the
brooder can be maintained steadily at a point above freezing. Some claim
that much greater extremes are all right, but we would accept such state-
ments with caution.

23

HOME-MADE FIRELESS BROODER— A home-made, fireless
brooder may be constructed as follows and it will answer all practical pur-
poses: Take */2 inch or 1 inch lumber and make a box 11 inches high and
20 inches square. Rip the box 5 inches from the top and 6 inches from
the bottom, and hinge on one side so that they will close as they were
before being ripped. In each end of the top bore three 1 inch holes and,
from the two center holes (one on each end) have tin tubes running from
holes to points 4 inches from center. Leave other holes as they are.
These holes are for ventilation and the tubes from two of the holes will
convey the air to and from center of brooder, while the other four will
ventilate the outer edges. Make a frame to fit into bottom part and set on
cleats so as to come flush with point where bottom and top of box join.
Tack porous cloth to this frame, either canvas or muslin, and let it sag in
the center to within 2 inches of bottom of box. On top of this canvas or
muslin put pads of cotton batting, say a layer about 2 inches thick. Have
this layer of padding such that you can gradually lessen it as the chicks
grow. Remove it entirely at 3 or 4 weeks if weather is mild. Later you can
remove the cloth entirely. The bottom part of this box line with felt on sides
and always have a warm litter of finely cut straw or clover in the bottom.
Leave an opening in front of the box 3l/2 inches square for chicks to go
out and in. If nights are very cold it may be well to partly bank up opening
with litter so as to keep out some of the cold, though the opening should not
be closed entirely as it also provides ventilation. This brooder will be found
all right. As many as fifty chicks may be kept in the brooder for one week,
twenty-five for three weeks, and twenty until they weigh \l/2 pounds each.
There are also many styles of fireless brooders on the market that may be
bought reasonably and save the trouble of making.

MATING — No matter how well situated your poultry farm may be,
or how good its buildings, or how excellent your incubators and brooders,
success cannot be obtained unless you can secure strong and fertile eggs.
The first consideration must be the health of your stock. The male birds
must be kept in vigorous health and the number of females with which they
are permitted to run must be limited. With the American and English
breeds, one male to each ten females, with the Mediterranean, one male to
each fifteen females, and with the Asiatic, one male to six or eight females,
are about the right proportions.

SELECTION OF EGGS — Care should be exercised in selecting eggs
for hatching. There is a great difference in eggs and, although it is not
generally known, it is possible to arrive at some idea of their hatching
qualities before they are placed in the incubator. An egg which will produce

Fresh Egg Dead Germ Egg at 7 Days Air Cell at

Hatching Time
Illustration No* 17

24

a fine, ^iroag chicken will iiavt a shell ol even texture. If, by holding it
between your eyes and a good, strong light, the shell appears to be porous
or patchy, or if you detect a ridge or thickness encircling the egg, usually
at the center, discard it. Again, the air cell in a fresh egg is always small.
As the egg becomes older this air cell increases in size. A few practical
tests will teach you the difference, so that you can surely and quickly make
the proper selection.

INCUBATION — Keep the temperature in your incubator at 103 degrees
and, after the selected eggs have been kept therein for seven days, they
should be tested by holding them in front of a strong light, concentrating
the light so that it will pass through the shell. All eggs which appear per-
fectly clear are unfertile and should be discarded. These discarded eggs
can be saved as they form an excellent food for the young chicks when hard
boiled. A fertile egg at seven days in the incubator will show a dark spot
i;rom which, as a center, blood vessels will radiate in different directions. If,
however, you discover an egg containing a dark spot, around which is a
dark circle, discard it also, as this is a dead germ, killed by the bursting of
a blood vessel as a result of overheat. The air cell increases in size as
the chick matures until, on the eighteenth day, it should occupy nearly one-
third of the egg space.

Eggs should be tested on the seventh and twelfth days and all containing
dead germs should be removed.

If conditions are right, chicks should break the shell on the nineteenth
day and the entire hatch should be over by the twenty-first day. After the
chicks begin to hatch, the machine shouM be kept closed until the chicks are
ready to remove to the brooder.

After they are well out of the shell, chicks should remain in the
incubator until thoroughly dry and they become sufficiently strong to be
removed to the brooder. This usually occupies about 48 hours.

LITTLE CHICKS — To hatch the chick is important; but to raise it is
the problem. There are two great enemies — disease and parasites. We have
referred to the various digestive troubles which come from wrong feeding
and which are generally grouped under the name cholera. These can all be
successfully treated by CONKEY'S CHOLERA REMEDY in the drinking
water as elsewhere fully described. There is another even more serious
trouble called White Diarrhoea. It shows as a white pasty discharge and may
come on any time between the third and the twenty-first day of the hatch.
The gummy substance hardens and closes the vent. The disease is very con -
tageous and the little chicks die by thousands each season — in fact White
Diarrhoea carries off each year from 60 to 75 per cent of all chicks hatched.
This disease has long baffled poultrymen. We have only recently found a
remedy for it, CONKEY'S WHITE DIARRHOEA REMEDY, which you
simply put in the drinking water and let the little chicks cure themselves.
Even those badly pasted up behind can be cured, but first you must remove
the hard accumulation. A drop or two of oil will soften it and make the
operation easy. Sometimes warm water is used, but in this case special care
must be taken not to get the chick wet.

White Diarrhoea is best treated by preventive measures as explained under
diseases. Conkey's White Diarrhoea remedy can be relied on. It is always
easier, and cheaper, to prevent than to cure.

Parasites are another great cause for the heavy loss of little chicks. Of
these lice are the worst, and there are three distinct kinds of lice — head lice,
body lice and mites. The head louse is the worst of all, for two or three of
these big f eltows will fasten on head or neck or under the wings of the little
chick and sap its life Fortunately treatment is easy, if the poultryman will

25

simply apply CONKEY'S HEAD LICE OINTMENT as directed. The body
louse is a different proposition and must be treated with a powder. CON-
KEY'S LICE POWDER is guaranteed effective, and at the same time posi-
tively will not injure the health of the chick. For mites it is necessary to
use a liquid, spraying it in cracks and on roosts, walls, etc., as explained
page 56 on this subject. Because of the different life habits of these three
distinct kinds of pests, no one preparation can possibly answer for all three.
Poultrymen are sometimes mislead by advertisements on this subject.

Before we leave the subject of the little chick we wish to urge again
every precaution to prevent disease. It is always cheaper and easier to pre-
vent than to cure. Besides this, once let a growing bird get in bad shape
the chances are it will be stunted by the setback, even though you cure the
particular disease.

TURKEYS

3 :•

And now we "talk turkey !"

. The common varieties of turkeys in this country are the Bronze, Narra-
ganset, Buff, Slate, White, Holland, Black and Bourbon Red.

By far the most popular seems to be the Bronze, which is a cross of
the Black (the English Norfolk turkey) with the original wild bird of this

country. The Bronze turkey is
now the largest and hardiest of all
the varieties. Next to it in size,
probably next to it in popularity
also, is the Naragansett — also a
cross with the American wild tur-
key, but with some Mexican wild
turkey blood added, giving the
mixture of white in the bronze
and black plumage.

Turkey raising is a profitable in-
dustry. It is something of a spe-
cialty and requires a little differ-
ent system from that of raising
ordinary domestic fowls, but the important differences are few and easily
mastered. But the great thing is to actually do what's right. Knowing and
doing are very different matters.

Turkeys adapt themselves easily to various climates and can be raised
successfully whether you live far south in Texas or north in Canada, and
thrive equally well under conditions so unlike as those found in New England
and in California. Fact is you can raise them any- where if you (1) start
with the right stock and (2) give the right care.

The right stock is any stock that is itself individually strong and healthy.
It must then be kept so. Turkey stock quickly shows bad effects from in-
breeding. The only way to keep up the constitutional vigor of the birds is
to introduce new toms, selecting always vigorous medium sized males and
mating each with about five mature hen birds, making sure always that ^ the
hens are also strong and vigorous. Some successful breeders consider eight
to twelve hens a good proportion to each torn. Pullets do not lay eggs so
large as those laid by yearling and two year old hens, and their poults are
not so strong.

26

Illustration No. 18. Bronze Turkey.

The right care means chiefly protecting the young poults from cold or
damp, especially from wet grass and from insect vermin. Timbered land,
where there is not much underbrush, is the finest for raising young poults,
or pasture land, where the grass is short, and there are plenty of insects to
be picked up. A flock of turkeys would benefit any farm by the amount of
worms, grasshoppers, etc., thus destroyed. Right care includes also giving
turkeys good, free range. These birds are still half wild and they will not
thrive under the conditions that are ordinarily successful with domestic
fowls. They grow very nervous and restless when too closely confined. If
you are in the business for profit the right way is to give the turkeys plenty
of good range, where they can get abundant natural food by foraging for
themselves. But at the same time you must give them a nice grain feed every
-night, as this will guarantee their return home to roost. Corn is the best
grain, but you should add occasionally some wheat, oats or peas, as corn
alone is too fattening. Since the turkeys will roost in the open air, however,
they can stand this rich grain, as it keeps them warm while in the open. The
rule is to feed a little at a time, but to feed often. A grain and insect diet
suits them to a T. The young poults will begin to feed themselves just as
soon as they are out of the shell. In the natural state they live almost en-
tirely on the insects and berries they pick up.

Pretty nearly the whole problem in turkey raising is to start right with
the poults. For while the grown birds are extremely hardy, the poults are
the tenderest of all poultry to care for. Watch them carefully up to the
time when they get their first plumage and "throw the red", that is show
their combs. After that they are easy to manage with the two main cautions
already stated.

The young poult should be fed the first two weeks a crumbly mixture
of bread and milk and pot cheese, or curd — about one-fourth should be the
cheese. Add to this a litte chopped onion. Two or three times a day give
the little poults all of this they will eat up clean and at least once a day
give them some finely cracked corn, mixed with wheat and oatmeal, equal
parts by weight. After the second week, increase this grain ration, and
also give more of the pot cheese, cutting down the bread and milk in the
ration. Pot cheese is considered better than beef scrap for turkeys, although,
of course, beef scrap is a valuable article for them. Of course, as they
grow older, you gradually give coarser grain and finally the whole grain.

Grit and charcoal should be before them all the time — this is always
necessary with any kind of poultry.

Water must be where they can help themselves, but it should be in a
fount such as will protect the young poults from getting wet. Turkeys
should always have a good supply of water.

TO FATTEN FOR MARKET— Give the turkeys free range, if pos-
sible, else they will "worry". At night, give them all "the whole corn they
will eat. In the morning, give them a mixture as follows : Six parts corn-
meal, three parts middlings, one part meat scrap, mixed with sour skim
milk. Do not let this get too soft and sticky, but make a good stiff mix-
ture. The last week of the fattening for market put the birds in darkened
coops and feed the following "cramming" ration, which you can make up
into pellets and feed by hand ; two parts cornmeal, two parts ground oats
(without hulls), one part middlings, one part scraps, mix to a stiff dough with
sour skim milk as before.

27

RATION FOR BREEDING SEASON— Equal parts by weight oi
ground oats, cornmeal, wheat bran, wheat middlings, meat scrap, mixed with
sour skim milk. Oats is the best all around grain at breeding time.

During breeding season turkeys should always be given free range all
day and allowed to roost at home in the open. They like high roosts and
fresh air. Let them have their way and you will see their big bodies
looming up on a ridge pole or some high tree branch.

Turkey hens lay from thirty-five to forty eggs during the season. Time
for incubation is twenty-eight days. Some poultrymen use hens for hatching;
but there is great danger from lice unless extra care is taken. However,
by giving the first clutch to sitting hens you can keep the turkeys laying.
Dusting the nest and hen with CONKEY'S LICE POWDER at frequent in-
tervals will settle that problem. Remember that lice will kill a poult in very
short time.

Young poults thrive best on woodland range, where they will not get
tangled in wet grass and can pick up most of their living. But if con-
fined, try to change their runs from day to day. Disinfect thoroughly,
using NOX-I-CIDE to sweeten the ground and to thoroughly clean all
utensils. .

DUCKS

This is another branch of the poultry industry, which has not been fully
appreciated. Duck raising is certainly profitable. Ducks are easier to manage
than chickens, have fewer diseases and mature more quickly. But it takes

good sense and proper attention to
necessary details to make a success of
the business.

Ducks are raised chiefly for meat,
but their eggs are a valuable food
product and with proper management
and feeding there is not that strong
flavor which has hitherto been an
objection. Duck eggs are large and
they always command from five cents
to ten cents more per dozen in the
market. For cooking they go about
one-third farther. Ducks commence
laying when about five months old.

The American Standard of Per-
Illustration No. 19j Pekin Ducks fection recognizes twelve varieties:

The Aylesbury, which is the market

duck of England, a slaty-white bird, good laying and rapid growing; the
Rouen, brilliantly colored, marked sometimes like the original Mallard; the
Pekin, which is the favorite market duck of America, the largest white
duck in the world, of early maturing and good laying qualities ; the Cayuga,
strictly an American breed, originating around Lake Cayuga, N. Y. (black in
color); Crested White; Indian Runner, called the "Leghorn of the Duck fam-
ily" because of its heavy laying, smaller than the Pekin, very early maturing
and growing more and more popular in this country; the Blue Swedish; the
White Muscovy; the Colored Muscovy, the eccentric duck that never
quacks, and also having other little peculiarities, insisting on building a
nest and taking an extra week to hatch; the Gray Call, used principally as

2?

decoys; the White Call; the Black
East Indian— the last three being
known as the "bantams of the Duck
family."

We should here give brief attention
to at least two varieties — the Pekin
and the Indian Runner, which are
now the favorites.

The Pekin duck was first brought
here from China in 1873. Pekins are
a large, early maturing, pure white
.breed. They are much liked for "green
duck" farming, as they easily weigh
over five pounds in ten weeks. They
have proved themselves satisfactory
in every way and it is safe to say
that more Pekins are grown for mar- illustration NO. 20. Indian Runner Ducks,

ket than all other breeds combined. They reach ten to twelve pounds at
maturity and are excellent layers. Large plants in the East market many
thousands annually. With Pekins there is an additional profit to consider
in the feathers, which are pure white and command nearly double price,
especially as they are elastic and largely mixed with down.

The Indian Runner meets the demand for a small carcass and good
layers, especially winter laying, when most ducks shirk. Indian Runner
flocks have high egg averages, as much as 180 to 190 eggs per duck. No
wonder they are often compared to Leghorns as layers. The eggs of the
Indian Runner are about the same size as those of the larger breeds.
Ducks are hardy, but the Indian Runner is perhaps the hardiest of all.
They do well under any ordinary conditions and if given free range will
rustle a good share of their living. ^ They feather early and mature sooner
than the large varieties. They weigh about five and one-half pounds for
drakes, and ducks one pound lighter. There are three distinct varieties,
the Fawn-and- White, Brown-and- White and White. The first named is the
most beautiful, also the most popular, and with their erect perpendicular
carriage fairly represent the breed. Thejr have long, flat heads, light fawn in
color, with straight green bill; white neck, back fawn or gray, fawn color
breast, shanks and feet orange yellow. They are mighty good to look at and
just as good to eat.

DUCK RAISING — Start always with good breeds and fine, vigorous
specimens of your chosen breed. The breeding stock should be selected from
the early hatches, as ducks will lay about two months before the drakes
are fit to use for breeding. At the beginning of the breeding season mate the
drake with from five to eight ducks. Later in the season you can increase
this number to ten or twelve. During the breeding season water is an
advantage, but is not really necessary. In raising ducks for market it. is
an advantage to keep away from pools, etc., as the ducks will fatten more
quickly Young ducks can be fitted for market as "green ducks" in nine
to eleven weeks, weighing easily five to six pounds. You will read many
glowing accounts of ducks weighing up to nine pounds, but we make the
general estimate lower.

You can easily tell the sex of the young by noting the long bill, neck
and body of the drake, and the more up'right carriage of the body. At two
months you can easily tell the duck by the coarse quack, whereas the drake
has a fine rasping note.^ As the drakes mature you will note the curled tail
feathers, which are easily distinguishable.

29

HOUSING— Ducks can be housed more cheaply than chickens. The
only thing is to keep them dry as possible. Cold and snow they don't mind
until they ''get cold feet." Cold feet stop egg production instantly. The
other important thing about housing is to have a rat proof floor. Keep the
litter on the floor reasonably clean, as they will "roost" on the floor.

Water should be where they can get at it day or night for drinking.
They need plenty of water inside, but for practical management the less they
have to dabble and play in the better, as it uses up their fattening energies
and makes extra work in tending, as they will be sure to slop water over
the floor and get it unfit for their own use.

FEEDING— The Duck has no crop, hence cannot stand much hard
grain, but should be given mash feed. Ducks are heavy eaters, can be
crowded' for market, but of course there is a limit. Feed all they will eat
up clean. Never leave stale food around to become filthy and fermented
and thus a source of disease. In a state of_ nature they would naturally feed
on watergrass and roots and low forms of animal life. Always give them
some green food unless they are on range. Feed about as follows:

As with chickens, do not attempt to feed the new hatch before 36 or
even 48 hours, but let the little birds fully absorb the yolk. Then give two-
thirds part wheat bran to one-third part cornmeal, moistening to a crumbly
mass with a little water or milk. Mix in one raw egg with each quart, and
also mix in a little sand or fine grit. Keep this before them for 48 hours,
watching to see that it does not get stale, that is, renewing as necessary.
Give them clean water to drink in a fountain such that they can wet their
bills and heads but can't get their bodies in the drinking water.

At one week: Give three parts wheat bran, two parts cornmeal, with
akout five percent of beef scrap. Keep changing above so as to have equal
parts wheat bran and cornmeal at six weeks, with about fifteen per cent beef
scrap. With this feeding the ducks will be ready for market at ten weeks.
Watch the beef scrap and reduce the amount if the bowels seem affected.
They certainly like green feed, but much will tend to make the skin yellow,
and the market demands white. Wheat is fine for giving this white skin
and beside it makes good strong bones.

The feeding trough should be plenty long so all can feed at once. Feed
just as much as they will eat up clean in 15 or 20 minutes is a good prac-
tical rule to follow. Let us repeat again, never leave food around in trough
or yard to become 'foul and cause disease.

Breeding stock are best given free range during the day, starting them
out after a scant breakfast so that they will be sure to exercise well in
foraging. For this morning feed give largely bran with a little cornmeal.
Feed about the same at evening. A good formula is as follows: Three
parts wheat bran, one part low grade flour, one part cornmeal. Add about
five per cent beef scrap, three per cent grit. Provide them with finely shredded
corn fodder, or clover or oat fodder.

Laying stock will make good returns on the following ration: Equal
parts cornmeal, wheat bran and low grade flour. To this add one-fourth the
bulk of cooked vegetables such as potatoes, turnips, etc. Mix in beef scrap,
about twelve per cent. Mix with a little cold water to a crumbly feed. An-
other laying ration is as follows: Three parts cornmeal, two parts wheat
bran, one part red dog or other low grade flour, one part cut alfalfa clover
or cut vegetables, one part beef scrap. Mix to a crumbly mass with milk
or cold water. Either of these can be used twice a day with a lunch feed
of a little corn, wheat and oats at noon. Of course, keep grit and ground
oyster shell before them all the time. Also plenty of water, as ducks wash
down their food with water.

Usually the flocks are brought in from range the last of November or

30

early in December, then put on laying ration and commence egg production
in about three weeks after housing. As would be expected, the first eggs are
more liable to be infertile. For hatching, the eggs should not be trusted to
the ducks, as they are inclined to be unreliable. Where most convenient
hens can be used for hatching and brooding, but on a large scale the best
way of course is to use incubators and brooders. Eggs will require 28 days
for hatching.

GEESE

There are many places on the average farm that are not suitable for
cultivation or for the raising of chickens, that could be profitably utilized for
a goose pasture. Low, swampy places can be used provided there is also
some high ground.

Goose culture requires less capital than any other branch of the poultry
business, as very little housing is necessary and they are turned onto the
land very much like cattle. A rough shelter free from extreme drafts should
be provided and a deep litter kept on the ground inside. The quarters should
be kept reasonably clean, for although they will stand more filth and neglect
than chickens it is not the proper way to care for them and good results
cannot be obtained without considering the health of the flock.

Mating usually takes place some time in February and after the fowls
have been penned together for a week or ten days it is not necessary to
keep the various pens separate. Once the family ties are firmly established
they will be lived up to during the entire season. Two or three females are
all that should be mated to a male.

Geese are long-lived and ten-year-old birds are quite common. Fe-
males of three years or over are the best for breeding purposes and their
usefulness continues throughout their entire life. Young ganders are more
desirable for breeders because of their activity. Old ganders also get quar-
relsome with age.

There is a difference of opinion as to which is the best breed of geese,
but the Toulouse, Embden and African are the most popular for general

purposes.

A goose will lay from twelve to twenty eggs before becoming broody,

but twelve is about the right number for a setting for the best results.

Twenty-eight days are necessary for

incubation.

If goslings are well hatched

little difficulty will be experienced in

raising them. They can be given

about the same feed as little chicks,

with the exception that green food

such as fine cut grass or vegetable

matter should be given several times

a day after the first day.

The old goose should be kept

in a coop and the goslings allowed to

run about. After a month they can

be let out to range and very little

attention will be necessary. They are

very light eaters and if the pasture is

good only a little other food will be illustration NO. 21.

needed. A good mash feed for them

is made by mixing two parts of

bran with one of cornmeal. A vari-
ety of vegetables such as beets, potatoes, turnips, cabbage, etc., should be

given them.

31

Because of their rapid growth and the small quantity of grain they con-
sume geese will be found one of the most profitable kind of =tock that can
be kept on the farm.

POULTRY DISEASES

The diseases of poultry are much the same as those of the human family.
Not only that, but the causes are about the same. They can be traced to
unsanitary conditions, improper feeding, impure drinking water, or exposure.

The continuous feeding of strong carbonaceous foods, or feeding too
much of one kind of food,_ or a lack of animal food, or green foods in the
winter, and then in the spring eating too heavily of grass, etc., all contribute
to poultry disease. Impure water is also a frequent factor. To the above
causes may often be traced Indigestion, Crop-bound and Cholera. If fowls
are forced to roost in crowded quarters, they are chilled when they go out
in the morning and colds ensue which, in turn, cause Roup, the scourge of
the poultry yard. Another source of disease is lice — the greatest of all
causes of trouble. They soon deplete the vitality of the fowls, making them
susceptible to colds and other forms of disease. This is particularly notice-
able at moulting time.

It would be folly for us to go on and tell you how to cure disease before
stating that very much can be done in the way of prevention. It is so
much easier to prevent than it is to cure that we call your attention to our
article on NOX-I-CIDE, the fo* of germ life, on page 71 of this book.

Diseases of the Respiratory Organs

ROUP

Nearly every poultryman has had experience with this most dreaded
disease. The ravages of Roup often amount to an epidemic. In such cases
it is cften termed "Cholera" for, among the larger number of poultry raisers,
any dangerous disease is called "Cholera" when, in truth, there is but one
similarity between the two diseases which is that either is pretty sure to
terminate fatally if left to itself^ While Roup may occur at any season of
the year, it is most common during the late fall months, early winter, and
the frosty days of spring.

CAUSE— Roup generally gets its
sstart with a cold which may be con-
tracted in various ways, such as ex-
posure to cold rains or disagreeable
weather ; by drafts of air blowing direct-
ly on the roosts; through improperly
constructed or poorly maintained houses ;
or the evils of overcrowding. Where
fowls or young chicks are allowed to
overcrowd at night they become heated
and then, when they go out in the chill
of the morning, they catch a cold which
soon develops into Roup. This disease
is also hastened by accumulations of
filth in and about the poultry houses, as
this condition promotes all classes of
disease. Lack of proper ventilation is
another great cause of Roup The foul

32

Illustration No. 20.
Fowl with Roup,

air cannot escape and the moisture from the breathing of the birds condenses
on walls, etc., then freezes or "frosts" as already described.

According to scientific authorities, there are varied groups of diseases
commonly known as Roup. It is very likely that Roup cannot originate from
a cold without its specific germ being present. But for all practical purposes,
and for all logical prevention, treatment and cure, they can be considered
identical until such time as their development advances to a point where
they may readily be identified by the ordinary poultryman.

Many people who have houses constructed on the most approved plans,
and whose fowls are given the best possible attention, have trouble with
Roup among their fowls and are unable to trace the cause.

Roup is one of the most infectious diseases and can be communicated in
various ways. One of the most common is by new stock from infected yards,
or by the use of some infected coop or utensil. It is frequently contracted in
the show-room from other birds, or from infection clinging to appliances of
various sorts.

When the infected matter from the diseased fowl dries, the germs may
be carried and scattered by the wind and thus spread the disease. Poultry-
men do not always think of this and are unable to understand its occurrence
in their flock, or its transmission from one portion of the flock to another.
Many times fowls will have the Roup without any indication of a preliminary
cold. This is explained by the fact that Roup is a germ disease ; these germs
live on and within the mucous membrane of the throat and head passages;
the infected fowls are continually throwing off these germs and, as they
dry, they are carried in the air and may lodge in the nostrils when the fowl
breathes, or they may lodge in the eye and multiply from that point, which
explains the frequent watering of the eye and the absence of every other
well-known symptom so common to this disease.

SYMPTOMS — Unless contracted from the dry germs in the air, as
mentioned above, the first symptom is that of a slight cold, the bird sneez-
ing, gasping, or wheezing, and repeatedly rubbing its head on its plumage.
The fowl loses appetite and shows a disposition to keep away from its
fellows. You will likely notice it moping in some dark corner with
ruffled feathers. There is a watery discharge from the nostrils and the
corners of the eyes, and soon the nostrils become closed. Development
is more or less rapid. The upper parts of the mouth and throat may fill
with a hard, cheesy matter of very offensive odor (the "roup smell"); the
head and eyes are usually swollen, and the comb turns dark; there is high
fever, the bird becomes emaciated and listless and in many instances,
unconscious. Altogether the roupy bird presents a most miserable appear-
ance, and it is not long before it dies. >

TREATMENT— The first thing to do is to separate the sick from the
healthy fowls. The logical plan is to remove the healthy fowls as the old
quarters have been contaminated to a greater or less extent. Inasmuch as
this is usually impracticable, remove the sick birds to clean, dry quarters.
The old quarters should then be thoroughly disinfected with a solution of
CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE according to directions. Then, in all the drinking
water, place CONKEY'S ROUP REM'EDY for a week, excluding all other
water. This should at once check the progress of the disease among the
balance of the flock.

Roup is characterized by considerable fever which induces thirst and
causes the bird to seek relief in excessive drinking. With CONKEY'S
ROUP REMEDY in the drinking 'water as directed, the fowl takes its own
medicine without any effort on your part. A measureful in the drinking

water and the fowls cure themselves. The measure referred to comes in
the package and holds about as much as a lady's thimble.

If the disease has become so advanced that the fowls cannot see to
drink, or the head passages so choked that the bird swallows with
difficulty, you can use a warm solution of the remedy and duck the
fowl's head beneath the surface for a moment. Its struggles to breathe
will carry the fluid directly to the seat of the disease. Of course, take
care not to strangle; and in cold weather do not attempt this operation
unless you can properly care for the fowls afterwards in a warm room,
to prevent catching cold.

CONKEY'S ROUP REMEDY is a carefully compounded prepara-
tion. Coming in contact with the membranes of the throat and mouth,
the seat of the disease, it kills the germs which are so
rapidly multiplying. It is quickly taken up by the system
and being a strong tonic, builds up the system, and assists
nature in every possible manner to throw off the disease.

OUR GUARANTEE— So positive are we of the cura-
tive powers of this remedy that we sell it to you with the
understanding that if it should fail to please you YOUR
MONEY WILL BE REFUNDED. This will be done
cheerfully! Any poultryman can tell you of our standing
and ability to do just what we say.

WORTHLESS IMITATIONS— Every successful firm

_ will have its "trailers" and we are no exception to this rule.

Illustration There have sprung up, here and there, a number of imita-
No. 21. tors of Conkey's remedy. Not only have these people and
firms tried to imitate the contents of our package, but
have put their goods up in the same kind of boxes and have imitated our
label until we have been compelled to change our label to the style of
our illustration No. 21 on this page. They are not affecting our business
to any extent, the name of CONKEY is too well established. We men-
tion this for the purpose of protecting the beginner or the one who has
not heretofore used our goods. When you order insist on CONKEY'S.
If your dealer cannot supply you, send the order direct to us and you
will receive the goods by return mail. (See CONKEY'S ROUP
REMEDY, page 65.)

PREVENTION— Much can be done in the way of prevention. The
freqent spraying of CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE in and around the houses,
etc., and the washing of utensils with a solution^ of the NOX-I-CIDE will
be found very beneficial. It will prevent other diseases as well. If at least
once a week CONKEY'S ROUP REMEDY is placed in the drinking water
according to the directions for prevention, it will be found valuable for
warding off Roup in all its forms.

PRECAUTION— ROUP COMES SUDDENLY AND UNEXPECT-
EDLY AND DOES ITS DAMAGE QUICKLY. Do not wait until your
flock is down, and then have to wait again until you can send and procure
the remedy, but order CONKEY'S ROUP REMEDY now and have it right
at hand. It is AN EXCELLENT INSURANCE against the ravages of the
worst disease known to poultrymen. If at the first appearance of this dis-
ease the remedy can be given at once your fowls will be restored to health
in short time and without spreading it to the others. There need be no cause
for alarm if you are provided for the emergency. It is only when the disease
becomes deep-seated, and your yards have become thoroughly infected, that
there is great danger.

34

COLD AND ROUP IN TURKEYS AND CANKER
IN PIGEONS

•The most effective treatment of these ailments will be found in CON-
KEY'S ROUP REMEDY. No one who raises Turkeys or Pigeons can
afford to be without it. See page 36 on Canker.

CATARRH

This is an aggravated form of cold — an inflammation of the mucous
membrane. Some make quite a distinction, technically, between Catarrh
and Roup, but we class them under the same heading. Certainly the method
of treatment applies equally well to either. CONKEY'S ROUP REMEDY
will do the work and do it quickly.

DIPHTHERIA OR DIPHTHERITIC ROUP

There is a great difference of opinion as to whether this disease is a
result of Roup or of a specific germ of its own. We might enter into a
lengthy discussion of this matter and give you the results of our most careful
study and observation, but it would represent nothing of practical value to
the poultryman, and this book is written for practical purposes only.

SYMPTOMS — This form of disease is marked by acute inflammation
of the mucous membrane of the head passages, that is, the mouth, throat,
nasal passages and eyes. The mouth and throat are covered with yellow-
ish gray patches which form a coating so thick and of such strength, as to
seem like a new membrane. The word Diphtheria means soft leather,
and it is an excellent description of the false membrane appearing in this
disease. When this matter is removed or torn away, a raw bleeding sur-
face is left. "While the germ is not the same, this disease resembles human
diphtheria, and it is said, there have been instances of the contraction of
a light form of diphtheria by children from fowls so suffering, and that
fowls have been also known to have contracted human diphtheria. It will,
therefore, be understood to be exceedingly contagious and dangerous.
It not only attacks chickens, but Turkeys, Pigeons, Ducks, and many
other fowls. Its early symptoms are the same as Catarrh and Roup.

TREATMENT— In very many cases of this nature, CONKEY'S ROUP
REMEDY has been found most excellent. "It is a very dangerous disease
and its prevention should be sought by the liberal use of CONKEY'S NOX-
I-CIDE. It may be used in the same manner as described for prevention
of Roup.

PIP •

Pip is a hardening of the mucous membrane of the mouth, particularly
of the tip of the tongue. It is caused by constant forced breathing through
the mouth through the presence of Roup, Cold, etc., which have closed the
nasal passages. The only possible cure is by removing the cause— that is
by treating as described for Roup or whatever disease causes it. DO
NOT REMOVE THE HARDENED TIP ON END OF TONGUE— it is
a part of the tongue. Apply daily to the hardened tip a little of CONKEY'S
HEALING SALVE and give the ROUP REMEDY according to directions.

35

CANKER

This is an ulcerative catarrh of the mouth, which is often found in
connection with a bad case of roup or chicken pox (sorehead). It is a
common disease of pigeons, in some forms resembling Aspergillosis,
described on page 51.

CAUSE — Neglected cold or roup; in pigeons a common cause is too
constant feeding of corn, or use of dusty or musty grain or litter. See
Aspergillosis, often taken for canker.

SYMPTOMS — Difficulty in swallowing, with attempts to swallow as
though there were some grain or other substance lodged in the throat.
The nerk sometimes has the appearance of being stiff. White spots
^<->near on the membrane of the mouth. In some cases there are cheesy
growths about the mouth, side of tongue, base of bill, and at times this
formation extends to the windpipe.

TREATMENT — When given according to directions, CONKEY'S
ROUP REMEDY is the most valuable remedy known for this disease.

.TUBERCULOSIS

Fortunately for the poultryman, this disease is not very common. Its
symptoms are so much the same as those of Consumption, and trie treatment
is so nearly identical that we will treat them as one in this article.

SYMPTOMS — Lack 9f life, emaciation with indications of indigestion
but there is in Tuberculosis a decided rise in temperature and, during the
last stages, violent diarrhoea. It is not possible to outline the symptoms so
surely that you can absolutely rely upon them in diagnosing the disease. It
is a germ ^ disease, and a bacteriologist only could give a definite opinion
after examination, but this is not possible or practical for many poultrymen.
A post mortem examination will usually reveal tubercules and nodules
throughout the liver and covering many of the internal membranes. When,
(however, you find any of the fowls "going light," as it is called, that is
showing rapid and extreme emaciation, with the above symptoms, take no
cnances, but kill them at once.

(As the majority of cases of Going Light result from Tuberculosis, we
have used the term in this connection, but there are also cases of Going Light
from othen causes. Sometimes fowls with voracious appetites will go light
through a specific germ for which no remedy is known and others will
go light from indigestion which is not difficult of treatment, and such cases
without evidence of other symptoms, can be treated as for Indigestion.)

CAUSE — As stated before, Tuberculosis is a germ disease and is highly
contagious. It is usually communicated through contact with birds which
have it. Some maintain that it can be contracted from human beings, or
from cattle that are suffering from Tuberculosis. In any event it is best
to provide against such a possibility. There is no question but that
strong, vigorous stock are seldom troubled with it, and that maintaining
a high standard of health is the best known safeguard.

TREATMENT— Kill all which show any symptoms and burn and
bury the ashes. Remove the balance of the flock to new quarters and,
with a sprayer or sprinkling can, disinfect everything that the fowls have
come in contact with, using a solution of CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE, two
parts NOX-I-CIDE to one hundred of water. Go over houses, runs, roosts,
utensils, EVERYTHING, once a day for a while. Fowls can then go back
to old quarters. CONKEY'S POULTRY TONIC should be given in their
daily mash. If this were g;ven occasionally as a tonic, there would be but
little cause for alarm over this trouble

36

INFLUENZA

Influenza, "Epizootic," or Grippe is a contagious, catarrhal disease dis-
tinct from Roup, although it often appears with Roup. Its common form
is like a Roupy cold and has the Roupy smell, with or without Diarrhoea.
It may well be classed as Roup for all practical purposes, as the cause,
symptoms, and treatment are the same.

SWELLED HEAD

Swelled Head is generally an after-effect of Roup and its kindred
diseases; but fowls may be found with hot and swollen heads without
having had any severe case of Roup or Cold.

SYMPTOMS — Swelling of head with more or less closing of eyes,
etc.

TREATMENT — Same as for Roup. Sometimes it may be necessary
to lance in order to remove the pus, while hot applications of one meas-
ureful of Roup Remedy to one quart of water will help to clear away
the pus.

In any case of Roup and the diseases that may be classed with it,
there is a liability of the fowl dying from starvation when the disease
advances to a point where it is difficult for the bird to swallqw. A good,
strong beef broth will often tempt an affected fowl, but, if not, make it
take several teaspopnfuls three times a day, and it will be found so
strengthening that it will often save a valuable bird when other food
entirely fails.

BRONCHITIS

Bronchitis is caused by a cold, by sudden changes in temperature, by
damp quarters, etc., and is often mistaken for Roup. It is also frequently
caused by breathing particles of dust, lime, or other foreign substance.
Unlike Roup, Bronchitis is an inflammation of the membranes of the
bronchial tubes, instead of the nostril and head passages. Filthy quarters
and the breathing of foul air should be especially avoided in such cases.

SYMPTOMS — Loss of appetite, and quick breathing and coughing.
A peculiar whistling sound may accompany the breathing, which changes
to a decided rattling in later stages. Bronchitis should not be confounded
with Roup, which is indicated by running at the eyes, nose, etc. The
two diseases require entirely distinct remedies and treatment.

TREATMENT— Give CONKEY'S BRONCHITIS REMEDY ac-
cording to directions and as early as possible.

CONGESTION OF THE LUNGS

This is caused by the sudden chilling of the surface of the fowls'
bodies and is due to exposure of various kinds. It is more frequently
found in brooder chicks and fowls in run-down condition, when their
strength is not up to standard and their bodies are not in condition to
protect them from the cold.

SYMPTOMS— Stupor and lack of life, accompanied by difficult and
rapid breathing. The comb may turn dark and blood-tinged mucus may
be discharged from the mouth. The disease appears without much warn-
ing and may quickly cause death.

TREATMENT— Owing to the fact that this disease is so quickly
fatal, there is nothing that can be done to cure it. The prevention should
be given all your thought. See that all fowls, and especially moulting fowls,

37

are given dry, warm quarters and provided with plenty of food, properly
proportioned. Moulting fowls should have all the animal- food that they
will eat. CONKEY'S POULTRY TONIC in the mash will be found of
great value as a preventive.

PNEUMONIA

This may result from Congestion of the Lungs and should be
treated in the same manner.

GAPES

Perhaps no subject among the diseases of poultry has excited more
interest or caused more argument than Gapes. It is one of the most common

diseases, though it has baffled the best
treatment for years. This was be-
cause the ailment was not thoroughly
understood and, again, because the
trouble was in the windpipe — a dif-
ficult place to reach with ordinary
remedies. It was not until very lately
that an effective remedy was found.

CAUSE— The Gape Worm (Syn-
gamus Trachealis) a parasite affect-
ing poultry, usually confines itself to
young chicks. The chick acquires
the gape worm either through in-
fected drinking water, or from eat-
ing angle worms, or from picking
gape worms from the ground, etc.,
Illustration No. 22. where other chicks have coughed

Chicken with Gapes. them up. Gape worms are, originally,

a parsite of the common earth worm and these earth worms, in an affected
area, carry the embryos in their bodies. The best way is for the poultryman
to keep all little chicks off such "gapy ground."

During the time that the gape worms are drawing
their sustenance from the chick,' the chick itself is los-
ing its vitality and strength, just at the time when this is
most needed to produce a strong, healthy fowl. If the gape
worms gather to any great extent in the windpipe as they
mature, the windpipe becomes filled with their bodies and
the chick chokes to death. Of course, many chicks have
the Gapes and do not die, but this is probably due more
to the lack of number of worms than to anything else.
Gape Worms do not multiply in the windpipe as the eggs,
or embryos, go to the ground before hatching, and it is
only the acquired worms that bother the chicks.

SYMPTOMS— This disease first shows as a slight
cough ; then, as the irritation becomes more acute, and the
worms grow larger, it causes the gaping which gives the
disease its name. This is usually accompanied by more or
less sneezing, difficulty in swallowing, breathing, etc. In-
asmuch as the symptoms of this disease are very much
like those of Bronchitis and Pneumonia, you should be
Trachea showing absolutely certain of the presence of Gapes before start-
Gape Worm,

38

Illustration
No. 23.

ing to treat the fowls. This is best learned by examining the dead birds.
After ^opening the windpipe with a sharp knife, cutting lengthwise, examine
its lining and see if you can detect any worms there. A magnifying glass
will be found helpful. In little chicks, the diagnosis is not usually difficult,
as the constant gaping is almost a sure indication, but older fowls may gape
because of some obstruction or from various other causes. Besides this, in
Pneumonia or Bronchitis there is a rise in temperature, which is not true of
Gapes in its earlier stages.

TREATMENT— We advise that the chicks be removed to new ground,
where absolute cleanliness, both of quarters and utensils for drinking and
feeding, can be looked after. Do not feed on the ground, but on boards
or in shallow dishes, and thoroughly scald these after each feeding. Keep
the quarters fully disinfected with CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE. If you
cannot move your chicks to new ground, make a flooring of matched boards
surrounded by wire netting/ , Place sand, or clean dry earth, on this and

Proceed as above, changing the soil on the boards once or twice a week,
n treating for Gapes, do not become impatient. This disease requires con-
siderable time to wipe it out, and it may be quite a while before you can
note any improvement. The chief thing is to keep up the strength of
the chick and bring the bird past the danger period while working for
the cure. Keep in mind that the very nature of the disease makes it
slow to yield. CONKEY'S GAPE REMEDY will prove itself satisfac-
tory, if instructions are persistently followed.

Along with this treatment other things should be done. As stated
above, the disease is introduced by the earth worm. As the irritation
becomes intense the fowls cough up the worms and these are eagerly
picked up by others of the flock, or the contamination is left on the
ground and is mixed with the soil, or is distributed over the drinking
vessels, feed troughs, or other utensils, where it is sure to cause infection
again. You may cure the Gapes as it stands, but if you do not wipe out
the cause, it will bother you right along and maybe destroy some future
hatch. For these reasons, the most stringent measures must be taken to
kill it root and branch. CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE, one part NOX-I-
CIDE to 50 parts of water, should be sprayed or sprinkled thoroughly
over the premises -where there may be possibility of contamination. All
utensils should be washed with the solution and the houses, pens, coops,
etc., should be carefully sprayed or sprinkled with it. In very severe
cases, where the disease is of long standing, it may be necessary to move
your fowls to another section of ground and not to use the old quarters
for a year or two. The ground then should first be well sprinkled with
NOX-I-CIDE, 1 part NOX-I-CIDE to 2 of water, and then plowed in
and sowed to some regular crop. If, however, as soon as you discover
the disease among your fowls, you will separate the sick birds and follow
closely the treatment we have advised, you should be able to remedy the
trouble. CONKEY'S GAPE REMEDY, like all of CONKEY'S POUL-
TRY REMEDIES, is a practical article, carefully compounded, and can
be relied upon.

Diseases of the Digestive Organs

CHOLERA

Genuine Cholera is a disease but little known and as little understood.
The poultryman calls all diseases of the digestive tract "Cholera." He is
wrong, but the name has become so common that Bowel Trouble, Indigestion,

39

Diarrhoea, Dysentery, etc;, commonly come wider that head and we follow
the custom so as to be understood. True Cholera is so swift and fatal in
its results and so contagious, that there could be no mistaking it. Genuine
Asiatic Cholera is seldom, if ever, seen in this country, and our meaning
for "Cholera" is the many diseases that resemble it and are so termed by
common usage.

CAUSE— The cause of Cholera can usually be traced to filthy quarters
or to the drinking of stagnant water. It is frequently brought to a flock
by the introduction of some diseased fowl, or contaminated coop, or utensil,
from a yard infected with Cholera. Improper feeding, like soured and sloppy
mashes, often causes forms of Cholera. The feeding of too much of one
kind of food, or the lack of some kind of food needed, frequently causes
diseases of the digestive tract, as already warned in the matter of green
bone, oil meals, green food, etc.

SYMPTOMS— A slight, watery diarrhoea is usually the first indication.
The bird shows a lack of life and spirit, and goes moping around half asleep
with ruffled feathers. The urates, which is that part of the excrement
thrown off by the kidneys, and which in healthy fowls is white in color,
takes on a bright yellow tinge or, again, it may turn green. This is not,
however, a sure indication of Cholera, for the same symptom is noticeable
in other diseases as well. The droppings become nloody as the result of
intense inflammation ; the comb darkens ; frequently it turns black and the
decline is rapid — the bird possibly being sick but a few hours — though the
length of time varies. It attacks all kinds of dom<St> fowls and carries
with it a high fever, while birds become exceedingly weak and may topple
over at the slightest touch.

TREATMENT*— The most important aid in the treatment of this
disease is a proper disinfectant which should be used freely and regularly.
CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE cannot be surpassed for this purpose. One
gallon of NOX-I-CIDE, when properly mixed with water, will make 101
gallons of ready-to-use disinfectant. This solution can be placed in a
sprinkling can and the premises gone over by sprinkling, or it can be sprayed
through a regular sprayer.

As soon as any birds show an indication of this trouble they should be
isolated from the others. Both the old and new quarters should be dis-
infected carefully as above described. CONKEY'S CHOLERA REMEDY
should be placed in the drinking water and all other water must be excluded.
The fever of the disease will make the fowls drink eagerly and they will
take their own medicine. This will at once check the internal inflammation,
kill all the germs with which it comes in contact, and assist nature in throwing
off the disease. CONKEY'S CHOLERA REMEDY should also be given
to all birds which may possibly have come in contact with the disease, and
they should be deprived of all water except that in which the remedy has
been placed, for at least a week. As soon as any fowl dies it should be
burned and the ashes and remains buried at a distance from the poultry
yards. The drinking water should be frequently changed, and thorough
disinfection should be kept up each day and for some time after all traces
of the disease have disappeared.

PREVENTION — Very much can be done in the way of the prevention
of this disease ; in fact, this is by far the most satisfactory and sure method,
for if once allowed to get into a flock, it is bound to cause considerable
loss before it can be checked. Great care should be exercised in introducing
new fowls. They should be ^ftiarantined for a weelc or two until you are

40

satisfied that they have no disease germs to communicate. CONKEY'S
NOX-I-CIDE should be used freely about the quarters at all times.

a--

3--

Illustration No. 25.
Digestive Organs of the Chicken.

In illustration No. 25 the
upper part of the head has
been removed, leaving the
lower jaw, and that is turned
sideways to show the tongue
and openings to the trachea
and oesophagus. All the neck,
•with the exception of the
oesophagus, the breast bone,
the heart, and the superficial
muscles, have also been re-
moved.

1, tongue ; 2, pharynx, show-
ing opening to larynx; 3, up-
per portion of oesophagus; 4,
crop; 5, lower portion of
oesophagus; 6, succentric ven-
tricle ; 7, gizzard ; 8, origin of
the duodenum; 9, first branch
of duodenal flexure; 10, sec-
ond branch of same; 11, origin
of the floating portion of small
intestine ; 12, small intestine ;
13, free extremities of the
caeca; 14, insertion of these
two organs into the intestinal
tube; 15, rectum; 16, cloaca;
17, anus; 18, mesentery; 19,
left lobe of the liver; 20, right
lobe; 21, gall bladder; 22, in-
sertion of the pancreatic and
biliary ducts; 23, pancreas;
24, lung; 25, ovary; 26, ovi-
duct.

INDIGESTION, BOWEL TROUBLE, DIAR-
RHOEA, DYSENTERY, ETC.

These disorders are usually termed "Cholera," but, fortuately for the
poultryman, they are of a far less serious nature and readily yield to
treatment if taken in time. It is of the utmost importance that these
troubles be promptly and properly attended to for, if they are allowed to
run, they are generally fatal and carry off a large number of the flock.

These diseases of the digestive organs are especially noticeable in little
chicks and are particularly prevalent during warm weather. They are
also evident in fowls of all ages and are one of the greatest drawbacks to the
successful raising of poultry.

CAUSE— Most of these troubles can be traced right back to improper
feeding. Too much carbonaceous food is given, or the diet is held too
strictly to one thing, or to one class of food. Often it is due to a lack of
grit. Many people try to get along without this vital necessity. Grit, first,
last, and all the time, is a wise motto to live up to. Again, these, troubles are

41

caused by the fowls eating sour or decayed food, which they pick up for
themselves. This may be as good a place as another to speak about sour
food.

SOUR MILK IS EXCELLENT FOR FOWLS BECAUSE THE
SOURNESS IS DUE TO THE PRESENCE OF LACTIC ACID,
WHICH IS NOT ONLY GOOD FOR FOWLS, BUT FOR HUMAN
BEINGS ALSO. BUT A MASH WHICH HAS TURNED SOUR
IS ENTIRELY ANOTHER MATTER, AS ITS SOURNESS IS DUE
TO PUTRIFACTION AND IS DEATH TO ALMOST ANY ANI-
MAL OTHER THAN A HOG. It is not even good for hogs! Little
points of general information like the foregoing, spell success for the
poultryman and farmer and lead to the goal of profit and satisfaction.

All feed should be of good quality, properly balanced.

A common cause is found in the close confinement and lack of green
food in winter, and the consequent over-eating of grass, etc., when fowls
are turned loose in the spring. They should be fed green food freely
during the winter months. See page 19.

Drinking water that is impure or stagnant is a common cause of
digestive troubles. A good supply of fresh drinking water should -be kept
in suitable vessels before the fowls at all times. This water should be
changed frequently, — in summer to keep it cool and in winter to prevent
freezing. Place it so as to keep out filth, and in the shade.

Sanitary quarters will help to prevent- this, and also many other
troubles. CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE should be sprayed about the build-
ings, runs, yards, etc., frequently, and should be used for disinfecting
the drinking vessels and feeding utensils.

If birds are exposed to dampness, or are permitted to live in cold,
damp quarters, they are almost sure to have bowel trouble.

TREATMENT — Keep all water from the fowls except that in which
CONKEY'S CHOLERA REMEDY has been placed. Discontinue heavy
mashes and provide only a limited amount of clean, pure food. If too
much carbonaceous food has been given, see that a balanced ration takes
its place. Sick birds should be placed in dry, comfortable quarters, plenty
of grit should be provided, and birds should be free from lice, and kept
free by the use of CONKEY'S LICE PREPARATIONS. A large pro-
portion of the diseases of fowls is caused by these pests, and no bird can
throw off disease if its vitality is being sapped by parasites. The prem-
ises, including houses, utensils, runs, etc., should be thoroughly disinfected
with CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE, one part NOX-I-CIDE to 100 parts of
water. Fowls that die should be completely burned, or saturated with
a strong solution of NOX-I-CIDE, and buried.

WHITE DIARRHOEA (Tiphlitis Coccidiosa)

There are various theories as to what this disease really is.- A new
theory is that it is a bacillary disease due to a parasitic organism very
much like the typhoid fever bacillus. The commonly accepted belief is
that it is a germ disease which attacks the caeca or blind intestine. A
post mortem examination will always reveal the presence of Coccidium
tennelum, a parasite belonging to the Spprozoa of the division Pro-
tozoa, the lowest division of animal life. This same germ attacks turkeys,
ducks and pigeons. When this disease prevails it usually kills a large
percentage, sometimes destroying an entire hatch. It is accompanied by
a white, pasty, fecal discharge, which pastes -up the feathers and closes
the vent. There is also a disease which is a contraction of the vent which
Comes with or without White Diarrhoea, and is always fatal.

CAUSE — The presence of the germ (or baccilus) as above. While this

42

disease may readily be transmitted from the droppings of affected fowls, th«
primary cause must be sought back to the eggs used for hatching.

PREVENTION— Hatching eggs should always be antiseptically cleaned
by wiping in 95% alcohol. (Or use 3% NOX-I-CIDE solution as de-
scribed page 68.) If an incubator is used, it should be washed with a solu-
tion of CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE, 1 part to 40 of water, and exposed to the
sun. The egg tray should be scalded and washed with the same solution
and, if there is burlap in the nursery or elsewhere, it should be renewed.
The same precautions should be taken with the brooders. The soil to which
the chicks have access should be well disinfected with NOX-I-CIDE solu-
tion, dug up often, and exposed to the purifying effect of sun and air.

If a hen is used for hatching, give her CONKEY'S WHITE DIAR-
RHOEA REMEDY as a preventive of the chicks contracting it from,
her through her droppings. Also, give .it to laying hens, as the germ
coccidea has been found in the white of the egg and in the shell, which has
been taken up in the passage of the egg through the cloaca of the hen.
This, of course, applies to poultry yards where the disease may have been
more or less prevalent.

While we do not agree with some that the cause of White Diarrhoea
is wholly from the unabsorbed yolk in the digestive tract of the chick, we
do most strongly advise that little chicks be not fed for the first 48 hours
after hatching. This gives the yolk time to be fully absorbed and saves the
chick from what would be another favoring condition for White Diarrhoea.

TREATMENT— Give CONKEY'S WHITE DIARRHOEA REMEDY
according to directions in the drinking water. This treatment is effective
and very easy.

CONSTIPATION

This is caused by a lack of exercise and proper food, or by worms;
and in the case of chicks a common cause is obstruction of the vent.
Often chicks are given too much cornmeal and other heavy food and
not enough green food and bulky material. Enlarge the runs if possible;
give an increased amount of bran in the mash, also putting in the mash
a large percentage of cut alfalfa or cut clover, and give them the sweep-
ings from the hay mow to pick over. For medicine give CONKEY'S
POULTRY LAXATIVE, either as a laxative, or as a cathartic dose as
needed, according to directions.

CROP BOUND

This trouble is usually caused by improper feeding. Too much grain
in the crop will distend it and impair its functions. It may be the result
of the fowl eating a mass of dry grass, or wire grass, or indigestible chaff,
etc., which forms into a hard ball and cannot pass beyond the crop. The
contents of the crop ferment and the bird is liable to starve with its crop full.

SYMPTOMS— The symptoms are usually easy to discover as the crop
is Lard and greatly distended. In some cases, an ill smelling liquid will
run from mouth and nostrils. The comb is pale, the beak is open as the
pressure on the trachea makes it difficult to breathe, its feathers are ruffled,
and the bird has a general appearance of dejection.

TREATMENT — Pour a little sweet oil into the fowl's mouth and force
it to swallow. Grasp the legs with one hand and, with the other, beginning

4.1?

at the top of the crop, gently press and work the contents of the crop, and
endeavor to loosen up a small quantity of the .matter that may thus be set
free. Supply oil often while working, so that the contents of the crop may
be kept as moist as possible. As soon as the crop is emptied, put %
teaspoonful of baking soda in a quart of water and keep it before the
fowl. Do not feed anything for a day and then very sparingly and care-
fully of soft foods until recovery.

Where the above process proves ineffectual, more heroic measures must
be taken. Prepare a solution of five drops of carbolic acid to an ounce of
water, or , if you have it, CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE instead of carbolic acid,
as this is safer. After picking the feathers, or clipping them, with scissors,
from a point near the top of the crop, leaving the skin bare, make an inci-
sion an inch long (no longer) lengthwise of the neck and cutting through the
outer skin. Now press this skin to one side so that when it is released the
next incision will not be directly behind it, and make a half inch opening
rather high up in the crop, so that the food will not press it open when heal-
ing, as it would tend to do at the lower part. If the mass inside is hard and
compact it may be necessary to cut into it with scissors. Your hands, and
all tools and instruments used, should be dipped into the disinfecting solu-
tion of NOX-I-CIDE or carbolic acid. You may use tweezers, toothpicks,
or anything with which you can carefully loosen the contents of the crop,
and you must be careful that no portion of the crop's contents finds its way
between the crop and the skin. Do not try to hurry, but patiently take every-
thing out of the crop, inserting the little finger to feel that the lower
opening to the gizzard is not obstructed. The wound should be washed with
the solution and both incisions should be sewed with white silk that has
also been dipped in the solution. Now take two single stitches in the cut in
the crop, leaving ends long enough to hang out of the wound an inch. Then
take three stitches in the skin, being careful not to include the crop in tying
the knot. After five or six days cut the stitches and carefully draw them
out. This operation is not serious and the bird is soon well.

Feed the bird nothing for at least twenty-four hours; then give small
quantities of milk for two or three days. Mashes can be given after four
of five days for a time and then give regular foods. It would also be well to
put a few drops of CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE into each quart of drinking
water, as this will prevent infection. CONKEY'S POULTRY TONIC, ac-
cording to directions, will be found excellent in restoring strength to the
fowl after mash feeding is commenced.

GOING LIGHT (ASTHENIA)

Going Light is a baffling ailment. It gets its name from the rapid
loss of flesh. Sometimes it is a germ disease of the small intestines.
Sometimes it is due to unsanitary quarters, lack of sunshine, etc. Mites
or lice may cause it; or indigestion from improper feeding, etc.

SYMPTOMS — Combs and wattles turn pale; voracious appetite;
loss of flesh; and slight constipation.

TREATMENT — First make a most thorough disinfection of the
premises and all utensils, such as founts, troughs, coops, and houses. The
first remedy indicated is a disinfection of the intestinal tracts, for which
give CONKEY'S CHOLERA REMEDY as directed, or a little of
CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE in the drinking water— not so strong that
they will not drink it, 15 drops to a gallon of water is about right. Then
give CONKEY'S POULTRY TONIC according to directions to build
up the system and restore the strength.

44

Leghorn chicks frequently go light from a too rapid growth of wing
feathers, which should be clipped so as to stop the drain on the body. Young
pigeons may go light from rapid growth of tail feathers and these should be
plucked out with a quick jerk for the same reason.

Going Light is often not so much of a disease in itself as it is a symptom
of some other disease such as Tuberculosis, Infe-ctious Leukaemia, Asper-
gilfosis, Mould, or any disease where the blood becomes impoverished.

CATARRH OF THE CROP

This is an inflammation of the membranes of the crop caused by over-
eating due to irregular or careless feeding, by eating foreign and irritating
substances, by worms which collect in the crop, or by eating poisonous sub-
stances.

SYMPTOMS— Loss of appetite and debility. Fowls try to eject the
contents of the crop and may belch as would a human being with indigestion.
The crop is distended and feels soft, being filled with foul gas or liquid.

TREATMENT — Hold the fowl head down and press the contents of
the crop gently out of the mouth. Dissolve one grain of sallicylic acid in
an ounce of water and give three teaspoonfuls at once. Do not give any
food for from 20 to 24 hours; then give small quantities of simple, easily
digested food, in which has been mixed CONKEY'S POULTRY TONIC
according to directions. To prevent such troubles do not over-feed, and feed
regularly. Mashes should be in such quantity as will all be eaten up in fif-
teen to twenty minutes. Grains should be given in litter to make the fowls
work.

GASTRITIS

This is inflammation of the stomach which lies between the crop and
the gizzard, due to eating mouldy or poisonous substances, to the feeding
of foreign and indigestible matter, or to constant over-feeding, or to
lack of grit.

SYMPTOMS — Inflammation of the crop, or intermittent diarrhoea
and constipation. There is a loss of appetite and general debility, together
with increased temperature.

TREATMENT— Give birds more range and a change in diet. Give
boiled rice water to drink. Add l/$ teaspoonful baking soda to each
quart of drinking water. If birds are constipated, give CONKEY'S
POULTRY LAXATIVE according to directions, continuing if necessary.
Under-feed, giving crumbly soft mashes mixed with water that has been
poured hot over clover. Also give some meat food.

OBSTRUCTION IN THE THROAT

A fowl will sometimes attempt to swallow a piece of food which, be-
cause of its shape or size, will lodge in the throat. Unless removed at once,
inflammation and consequent swelling will result and without immediate relief
death will follow.

SYMPTOMS — Frequent attempts to swallow, and often a hard sub-
stance can be felt from the outside.

TREATMENT— Give a small quantity of sweet oil and work the sub-
stance out at the mouth by easy pressure and movement

45

BAGGING DOWN

This is caused by feeding too freely of corn and other carbonaceous
foods, and results in irritation, inflammation, and loss of feathers, of the
posterior part of the body, by its hanging down.

TREATMENT— Change the diet, giving feeds containing largely pro-
tein, supply liberal quantities of green foods, and make fowls scratch for all
grains in deep litter, thus compelling exercise.

DISEASES OF THE LIVER

The liver in fowls, as in hu-
man beings, is one of the larg-
est organs of the body and one
of the most important. It pre-
pares the bile which plays such
an important part in digestion
and it has much to do with the
chemical changes in the blood.
The principal diseases are Con-
gestion of the Liver — Inflam-
mation of the Liver, called
Hepatitis — Atrophy, or wasting
of the Liver — and Fatty De-
generation of the Liver. For
our purpose, all of these may
be classed under the head of
liver troubles, as many of the
symptoms are practically iden-
tical and the method of treat-
ment is very much the same.

CAUSE — The main cause of
Liver Trouble is found in the
lack of exercise and improper
feeding. Foods which are too
rich, or too heavy in their proportions of starch and fat-producing elements,
may have been fed. This is frequently occasioned 'by the scraps from the
table and kitchen which contain so mueh bread, potatoes, etc. If scraps are
fed, and they can be used to great advantage, they should be perfectly mixed
with other foods, so that the whole presents a balanced ration.

These troubles are also caused by the presence of parasites in the liver,
those characterizing Chicken Cholera, Tuberculosis, and Blackhead (the lat-
ter is found in Turkeys) being the most common. These cause various de-
rangements— inflammation, and finally death of the tissues.

SYMPTOMS — The great trouble in overcoming Liver Troubles is that
the symptoms are often misleading and are slow to appear, the result being
that when they are discovered it is often too late to apply an effective rem-
edy. The Fancier, or careful poultryman, who watches his flock closely, is
able to detect these symptoms, but with the ordinary market poultryman, the
disease is liable to be well advanced before the need of a remedy becomes
apparent.

The comb and wattles usually show a lack of color, gradually changing
to dark red or purple ; there is a loss of appetite and the bird is sluggish.
In Jaundice the skin takes on a yellowish hue, and this is also indicated in the
comb and wattles. The disease is commonly attended by a diarrhoea watery

Illustration No. 26.
Diseased Liver.

46

and dark in color, and gradually changing to a yellow cast. There is much
loss in weight and the bird becomes poor.

TREATMENT — Give free and open range if possible and see that birds
have plenty of exercise. Give as a purgative one rounded teaspoonful of
CONKEY'S POULTRY LAXATIVE to each two quarts of mash feed for
two days, then discontinue for two days and repeat. If this remedy cannot
be given in the feed, mix the LAXATIVE with a little sugar syrup and roll
into pills, giving each fowl one the first day and repeat the second day if
necessary. Change the diet, providing a supply of clover, or other green
food, especially in the mashes. Discard cornmeal, bread, potatoes, and all
starchy , foods as much as possible, and substitute foods which are high in
protein, such as wheat, ground peas, oats, etc. Raw beef or green cut bone
will be found very beneficial. CONKEY'S POULTRY TONIC given ac-
cording* to directions will be found excellent for bringing the birds back to
proper condition.

BLACKHEAD

(Infectious Entero-Hepatitis.)

This is a parasitic disease which attacks the caeca, sympathetically affects
the liver and is confined principally to turkeys.
The Caeca is a sort of blind double-intestine and,
much like the vermiform appendix in human
beings. Its use is not fully understood. We do
know, however, from dissection, its exact form
in both normal and diseased condition.

CAUSE — The disease is caused by a parasite
(Amoeba meleagridis) which is taken into the
digestive system with the food' or drink. It at-
tacks the mucous membrane of the caeca and
brings on intense inflammation. The micro-para-
sites find their way from the diseased, caeca into
the liver, which brings this disease under the head
of Liver Trouble.

SYMPTOMS— General Weakness, loss of ap-
petite, and an almost constant diarrhoea. As the
disease progresses, the head becomes discolored,
turning quite dark, which gives the disease its
name.

Caeca of Cacea of

Healthy Diseased

Turkey. Turkey.

Illustratioft No. 23.

TREATMENT— This must be largely preven-
tive. CONKEY'S POULTRY TONIC in the
mash food, and CONKEY'S CHOLERA REME-
DY in the drinking water, have been found ef-
fective. We have, however, a special BLACKHEAD REMEDY. While
we do not guarantee this remedy to cure all cases, it has proven so thoroughly
efficacious in so many instances, that we feel compelled to put it on the
market for those who wish to take advantage of it. (See Special Remedies,
page 68.

Where the disease has reached its height heroic measures must be adopt-
ed. Remove all affected birds and disinfect the premises, utensils, houses,
etc., with CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE. Give the preventives to those not at-
tacked and give CONKEY'S SPECIAL BLACKHEAD REMEDY to the
affected fowls which you have separated. Keep up constant disinfection.

47

The germs are thrown off from the bowels and, as the diarrhoea is
severe, the danger of infection is very great.

Blackhead is one of the most fatal poultry diseases to attack a riock,
(usually turkeys) and no one can guarantee a cure after the disease is once
thoroughly established.

Diseases of the Urinary and Reproducing Organs

INFLAMMATION OF THE OVIDUCT

This is caused by fowls laying eggs too often or eggs too large. It is
also caused by internal disorders of the oviduct, such as Egg Bound,
breaking of the egg in the oviduct, etc. These last mentioned may be caused
by an overplus of fat from improper methods of feeding.

SYMPTOMS— The fowl strains repeatedly as if attempting to lay and,
if it does lay, the eggs may be spotted with blood. The straining often leads
to ruptured blood vessels which cause death. The vent is inflamed, the tem-
perature first increases, but later decreases as the fowl loses strength, and
finally dies of exhaustion.

TREATMENT— The diet should contain a large share of green food,
and all grains, or maslies, should be cooling. Do not give stimulating or
condimental foods. The birds should be separated from the flock and be
given a quiet place. A pinch of baking soda together with a dose of
CpNKEY'S POULTRY LAXATIVE, will be fotnd helpful. If you
think that the egg is lodged in the passage, insert an oiled finger and
proceed as in Egg Bound, but every movement should be slow and
patient, as the inflammation is intense. Dust out with CONKEY'S
HEALING POWDER.

PROLAPSUS OF THE OVIDUCT i

This is confined mostly to old hens, and is due to over-stimulating food,
straining, especially when passing large eggs, and may also be due to con-
stipation. It is frequently one of the results of Inflammation of the. Oviduct.

SYMPTOMS— There is generally a protrusion from the vent of a
idark-red or violet-colored mass, which becomes highly inflamed, and which
is liable to invite Gangrene, in which case death is inevitable.

TREATMENT — Determine at once whether or not there is an egg in
the passage. If so treat as for Egg Bound. If it is not due to this trouble,
then bathe the parts in a weak solution of CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE and,
when dry, apply CONKEY'S HEALING POWDER, and gently press the
protrusion back into place. Then follow treatment as outlined for Inflamma-
tion of the Oviduct. In addition to this, give the fowl five drops of
Fluid Extract of Ergot.

VENT GLEET

Cloacitis, or Vent Gleet, is a contagious catarrh of the cloaca, or
lower portion of bowel and is usually transmitted from fowl to fowl in
the act of copulation.

SYMPTOMS — It is first indicated by frequent passages of excrement,
the bird often trying to pass matter when there is nothing there. The mem-

48

branes are red, dry and swollen. A thin, watery discharge appears, which
becomes white later on and is very offensive.

TREATMENT— Separate the sick birds from balance of the flock.
Make a warm solution of 1 teaspoonful of NOX-I-CIDE in 2 quarts of
warm water, and for 15 or 20 minutes immerse the lower portion of the
fowl's body, including the vent, in this solution. Dry and put in a warm
room to prevent catching cold. Repeat each day if necessary, and apply
CONKEY'S HEALING POWDER or CONKEY'S PAIN LOTION
to the vent.

EGG BOUND

This is more likely to happen with older fowls, especially during the
latter part of winter, and may be traced to over-fat condition.

SYMPTOMS — The symptoms are unmistakable as the bird becomes
listless and makes frequent attempts to expel the egg. If the bird is
examined, the egg may be felt as a hard substance.

TREATMENT — In ordinary cases, inject a small quantity of sweet
oil into the vent and then, by gentle pressure, assist the passage of the
egg. When this is accomplished, reduce the feed and give green food in
abundance, withholding all carbohydrates or fat-producing foods. If this
does not bring the desired result, and the egg is not ejected, immerse the
posterior portion of the fowl in warm water for about half an hour.
Inject oil as before and endeavor to assist the egg's movement by using
a gentle pressure. If this fails, it is best to insert an oiled finger, break-
ing the egg, thus allowing its contents to escape, and then remove the
particles of shell with the finger. If, during this treatment for Egg
Bound, Fluid Extract of Ergot is given, five drops to a dose two or three
times a day, it will be found helpful. If it happens that through the
fowl's attempt to expel the egg, the oviduct is ruptured, and the egg
breaks through into the abdominal cavity, it will lead to death. If this
is found to be the case, by all means kill the fowl.

BLOODY EGGS

Sometimes there may be found clots of blood within an egg. These are
due to internal hemorrhages and can usually be counteracted by feeding
plenty of green food, and discontinuing condimental foods, and giving less
animal food; the object being to allay inflammation which may have pro-
duced the hemorrhage.

EGGS WITHOUT SHELLS

These are usually accounted for by a lack of shell-making material in
the ration of the fowls. They may also be traced to the inflammation of that
part of the oviduct where the shell is formed. This trouble leads to more
or less irritation and should be corrected at once. This can be done by pro-
viding plenty of crushed oyster shells, mortar, granulated or broken dry
bone, wheat bran, etc. We do not advise the use of egg shells as this may
lead to the egg-eating habit

DOUBLE YOLKED EGGS

These are often found, and the egg containing double yolks is usually
larger than the normal egg and, for this reason, may cause some difficulty.
As a rule, there is no cause for concern. Eggs of this kind should not be
incubated, as they will usually produce freaks.

49

DIMINUTIVE EGGS

An examination of these will usually show an absence of a yolk. The
albuminous part of the egg is present, but irritation in the oviduct has inter-
fered with the proper union of the yolk and albumen: The albuminous
matter, reaching the shell-forming part of the organ, is provided with the
proper covering and the incomplete egg is laid. When you discover a hen
having this tendency, separate her from the others. As the trouble is due to
inflammation of the oviduct, follow treatment suggested under that heading.

EGGS WITH ODORS

When such foods as onions, fish, and even garlic, are fed in small quan-
tities, they may prove beneficial, but when layers have access to such strong
foods they often taint the eggs. It is on the same principle that celery is
used in fattening food for ducks, to give the flesh a celery flavor. Avoid
such strong foods where you are producing eggs for special market.

TWO EGGS IN ONE

Hens will occasionally lay an egg .which contains within itself another
egg with its proper shell covering. The inner egg, however, usually corre-
sponds with our description of diminutive eggs — that is it contains no yolk.
The small egg is formed and an attempt is made to lay it. Instead of pass-
ing out, a counter movement forces it back into the oviduct, where it proba-
bly comes in contact with the albumen and yolk of another egg on its way
to the uterus to be covered with a shell, and the double egg is expelled.
This condition, if continuous, is abnormal, and is an indication of the fact
that the fowls are being too much forced for egg production.

HOW TO PRODUCE EGGS

Hens for breeding, and fancy stock, should never be forced! Utility
stock should be made to pay all that it can and pushed to the limit of
healthful production. Is it not better to feed fowls for a maximum egg
yield for two years and then replace them with new stock, rather than
to feed them for four years for a continuous minimum egg yield?

Horses are fed to draw the heaviest loads ; cows are fed to give the most
milk, so why not feed your fowls to produce the greatest profit ? Some peo-
ple say, "Why, it is not natural !" Neither is laying more than twelve eggs a
year natural, and it is most decidedly unnatural for a hen to lay an egg in
cold weather ! Stick to nature and you will go bankrupt in the poultry rais-
ing business !

It has taken years of careful study and experiment to perfect CON-
KEY'S LAYING TONIC, an article that does not injure the hen, but
which does tone and invigorate, improving the digestive system, strength-
ening the egg-producing organs and in general putting the fowl in that
constitutional condition which is the secret of spring and summer laying.
Most fowls need a tonic right after the molt. Often they do not fully
recover condition before the coming of winter. The system is low, the
circulation sluggish, in fact, all conditions exactly opposite to summer
vigor!

CONKEY'S LAYING TONIC insures perfect digestion and tones the
egg-producing organs. By keeping the health at the maximum point it
prepares the proteids for egg production and invites summer activity in the
winter season. It assists in the maintenance of heat without fat, thereby
inducing egg laying by natural methods and without forcing. It assimilates
the carbohydrates — the heating foods — with the rich blood that serves to
convey the protein, thereby overcoming the greatest problem against nature —

50

the problem of furnishing winter heat without winter sluggishness. All this
is the secret of winter eggs,, and it is worth finding out. See CONKEY'S
LAYING TONIC, page 70.

POISONING

Through careless distribution of insect killers, salt brine, salt meat, lye,
fertilizers, copperas, phosphorus from matches, rough on rats, paint left in
old cans, Paris green, etc., many fowls meet death annually. It is necessary to
use the utmost precaution to prevent fowls from obtaining access to them.

SYMPTOMS — Trembling, convulsions, and drowsiness. The fowls seek,
a dark place and draw their heads into the body. As a rule, the cause of the
trouble is discovered too late to permit treatment.

TREATMENT — If the case is discovered immediately, try to empty
the crop. If you know or suspect the nature of the poison, an antidote
for same should be given. Where poison is due to salt, lye, or fertilizers
which contain nitrate of soda, give as drinks strong coffee, brandy, or
flaxseed tea, slippery elm or similar mucilaginous liquid. Where poison-
ing is due to copper, zinc, or lead, give white of egg in liberal quantities.
For phosphorous give magnesia and afterwards flax-seed tea.

MOULD (Aspergillosis)

This form of poisoning is occasioned by fowls inhaling, or otherwise
taking into their systems, mould which they obtain from mouldy food, or
from mouldy hay, straw, vegetables, etc. Some people believe that anything
is good enough for poultry and buy musty, burned wheat, etc. It is a costly
economy and, sooner or later, Mould will be the result.

. SYMPTOMS— It is indicated by lack of ambition, the fowl separating
itself from the others. The bird is sleepy and sits down from lack of
strength. There is usually some catarrh, with rattling in the throat, diffi-
cult breathing, and temperature above normal. There is frequently a fungus
growth on the membranes, holding the mouth open and something resembling
canker. . *-

TREATMENT— Practically nothing can be done. Birds dying from it
should be burned and the remains buried. Prevention is the best plan, bee
that nothing of a mouldy nature, either as a food or litter is placed with
their reach. Shake out and air all straw used for litter. Frequent spraying
of premises with CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE will be found of great value.
If you wish to try treatment, give strong coffee, brandy, or y2 to
of Quinine several times a day.

LIMBER NECK

This is ptomaine poisoning and is a very fatal disease, demanding
immediate treatment. It can be easily cured in all early stages.

CAUSE — Limber Neck is caused by the fowls having access to, and
eating from, putrefying animal matter. If the premises are diligently
searched when this disease first makes its appearance, some dead animal, or
fowl will be found in a state of decomposition, upon which the birds have
been' feasting. The eating of maggots from such putrefying flesh may result
in the same disease. It might also possibly be due to intestinal worms, but
that is not frequent.

SYMPTOMS— The main symptom from which the disease gets its
name is the peculiar action of the neck, which is so limber that the bird can-

51

not hold its head in position. The bird is weak on its legs and staggers and
trips as it attempts to walk.

^ TREATMENT — First find and burn th6 cause, burying deeply what re-
mains in a secluded spot. Disinfect the immediate location with a solution
of CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE. Separate the sick birds from the others.
Place one heaping teaspoonful of CONKEY'S LIMBER NECK REMEDY
in a quart of water and stir until dissolved. Then give each bird one table-
spoonful of the solution three or four times a day according to the severity
of the attack. Hold the bird's head back and elevate the bill when giving
the medicine.

If the affected flock is too numerous to administer individual treatment,
good results may be obtained by giving no other water than that in which
CONKEY'S LIMBER NECK REMEDY, in above proportion, has been
placed, but treat individually where possible for the best results. The
fowl should begin to show decided improvement after one day's treat-
ment.

Parasites

ROUND WORMS

Worms are not a source of serious trouble among fowls,
but every poultryman should know what they are, their
symptoms, and the proper treatment.

This name is derived from the form and is used to dis-
tinguish them from the flat tapeworm. They are white in
color, with the head pointed, and their length varies from
one-half inch to four and five inches. They are not a source
of great trouble unless present in large numbers, in which
case their very mass interferes with the passage of food and
proper digestion. Their presence also causes more or less
irritation, which brings on diarrhoea, and they take so much
of the fowl's food for their own sustenance that the fowl
loses strength.

SYMPTOMS^-It is difficult to outline symptoms which
can be taken as certain evidence of this trouble. Sometimes
these worms pass through the intestines and are thrown off
in the excrement, in which case they can be detected. A slight
diarrhoea and general symptoms of indigestion are usually
present, together with a wasting away in spite of a vigorous
appetite. When dressing fowls for market, be on the look-
out for these worms and, if detected, note the fowls showing
symptoms and give them treatment. Worms often cause
staggering and this symptom is called Staggers by many as
a special disease.

TREATMENT— We have a special remedy for worms
which is excellent if given according to directions. The
trouble is not common enough for dealers generally to
keep this remedy in stock, but we will mail it to those
who send to us for it. See CONKEY'S SPECIAL
REMEDIES, page 68,

5?

SCALY LEG

This disease is caused by a parasite working in and
underneath the scales of the feet and legs. The scales are
loosened and elevated by a powderous substance accumu-
lating beneath them, which gradually spreads from the toes,
up the legs until the feet and legs are much larger than in
normal condition, often making it difficult for the bird to
walk. Scaley Leg is contagious and while not fatal, it is
injurious to the bird and lowers its sale value, as well as its
usefulness. Never set a hen having Scaly Leg — cure her
first. The disease is more contagious among fowls which
are poorly cared for, but the very best cared for may
contract it.

TREATMENT— CONKEY'S SCALY LEG REM-
EDY combines a wash and an ointment which comes
in the same package. Place two tablespoon fuls of the niustration No. 31
liquid in each pint of warm water and stand the bird Scaly Leg.

in this until the scales are thoroughly softened. Then
rub off scales gently with blunt stick, dry the legs, and
apply the ointment daily for three or four days and, if
necessary, use warm liquid once more to soften scales.
(Then again apply the ointment. It is wise to dip legs
of all your fowls as above, two or three times, even
if but few are troubled, as it is contagious and this
may save the balance of your flock from the disease.
The houses should be thoroughly cleaned and then
sprayed with a solution of CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE,
one tumblerful to a pail of water.

TAPE WORM

The name is derived from the great length of these
worms and their thinness — resembling a piece of tape.

SYMPTOMS — The symptoms are much the same as
with the round worm. Frequently, however, sections
of the worms may be noticed in the droppings. Fowls
mope around from no apparent cause, and their plumage
is rough and loses brilliancy. They become dull and
•listless and show no disposition to work. There is
usually diarrhoea, and the birds grow weak and thin.

TREATMENT— All droppings should be burned im-
mediately and premises disinfected with CONKEY'S
NOX-I-CIDE. Follow suggestions for round worms
"IRftftJ^ remedy. See CONKEY'S SPECIAL

Illustration No. 30. REMEDIES, page 68.

LICE.

The word "Lice" explains more disease, more poor egg records, more loss
to the poultryman, than all other causes combined. If a fowl is not doing
well, and is in any respect below standard, the very first thing that should be
done is to LOOK FOR LICE. If this book accomplishes nothing more than

53

to impress this emphatically upon the mind of every reader, it will have ful-
filled a mission the benefit of which cannot be estimated, and will have
resulted in saving many poultrymen a large amount of money, not to men-
tion worry and disappointment.

Many people maintain that lice can spring spontaneously from filth alone.
This is not true. Lice can generate only from parent stock and these, in
some manner, must be introduced into a flock before lice can be present.
The ways of introduction, however, are so numerous, that it is almost uni-
versally true that where the fowl is, there also will be found the louse.

There are many kinds of lice that attack the domestic fowl and we
might enter into a technical description of their nature, habits and classifica-
tion, but this would be a waste of time from a practical standpoint. For
our purpose we can consider them under three classes, as their habits run
in three directions, and it takes three different preparations to exterminate
them all. NEVER PUT FAITH IN A CLAIM THAT ANY ONE
PREPARATION WILL EXTERMINATE THEM ALL WITHOUT IN-
JURING THE FOWL. We will call the three classes, Body Lice, Head
Lice, and Mites.

Body Louse.
Lipeurus Variabilis.
Illustration No. 32.

Head Louse.
Menopon Biseriatum.

Mite.
Dermanyssus Gallinae.

BODY LICE— Body Lice are to be found on all parts of the fowl's
body, but more generally around the vent and wherever the fluffy feathers
are located. They usually remain on the fowl's body and multiply very rap-
idly. It is 'estimated that in eight weeks' time, one louse can have produced,
from itself and offspring, 125,000 lice. While this species do not suck the
fowl's blood, they live on the roots of the feathers and by attacking the
scales of the skin. This results in extreme irritation and constant fretful-
ness of the birds.

HEAD LICE— These lice are of the family "pediculidae" which are true
blood suckers, and have long bills with which to puncture the skin and blood
vessels underneath. They fasten on the heads and throats of little chicks,
leaving the head of the mother hen as soon as the chicks are hatched. They
quickly sap the vitality of young chicks, and thousands upon thousands die
yearly from this cause alone. Brooder chicks are not exempt unless the ut-
most care is, taken to keep the brooder free from lice.

MITES— These pests are the worst of all, if it is possible to make com-
parisons. Unlike the body lice, they remain on the fowl's body only at night.
During the day they hide in the cracks and crevices of the roosts, dropping*
boards, walls of the houses, etc., or any spot where they can conceal them-
selves Where the roost comes in contact with the side of the building, they
find a convenient lodgment. You may notice an accumulation there which
has" every appearance of a handful of dust. It may escape your serious notice

54

for a time, until you discover that it moves and is a mass of living organ-
isms— a countless body of mites waiting for roosting time. What a reception
for the flock, which has spent much of the day in a vain effort to rid them-
selves of the body lice by diligent picking and scratching, to have this army
of Mites quickly spread themselves over their bodies, to bite, or bore, through
the skin, suck their blood, deprive tlem of rest, and sap the best of their
vitality !

CAUSE — As stated above, lice do not spring up themselves, though the
main cause of their increase is carelessness and filth. . Where you find a flock
poorly housed in damp, mouldy, ill-smelling quarters, and lacking in the con-
stant care and attention they are entitled to, there you will find lice in count-
less numbers. The very rapidity of the increase of these pests explains how
necessary it is to everlastingly fight them, with absolutely proper prepara-
tions for killing them, and by keeping the house and surroundings scrupu-
lously clean. By keeping your fowls hard at work and in vigorous health
you will avoid a great portion of this trouble, as lice are not nearly as apt
to infest the thrifty, healthy fowl as the bird which is depleted in health and
strength. Always provide suitable and sanitary quarters if you wish the
most from your flock.

SYMPTOMS— Fowls troubled with lice show a decided restlessness.
They are continually picking, scratching or dusting themselves. Their
plumage becomes ragged and torn from constant picking, and faces, skin,
and combs become pale. They grow listless, thin, and finally become but
skin and bones. The egg record grows less and less until there is nothing
to record. Frequently a dead fowl is found under the roost Sitting hens
leave the nests frequently, and often forsake them, as they grow sick and
are forced to give up in self-defence. Little chicks have bowel trouble and
drop off, or slowly droop and die. It is impossible to name all the symptoms.
Many put the symptoms down as those of cholera and other diseases, and
"doctor" their flocks accordingly. They are unwilling that anyone should
even suggest the presence of lice in their flocks, when these pests ar<% per-
haps, the only menace that stands between them and success.

TREATMENT— The first thing to do is to clean up and to remove all
filth and uncleanliness from in and about the poultry houses, and to make
the quarters neat and sanitary— AND KEEP THEM SO. Don't allow drop-
pings to accumulate, and it is best to remove them daily. Droppings boards
under the roosts are an absolute necessity, as they can be kept clean with but
very little labor. This will put you in position to most effectually use the
proper remedies for overcoming lice. Provide the fowls an ample dust bath
of clean, fresh earth, (not road dust as is generally recommended) and they
will soon make dust of it. To this should be added a liberal sprinkling of
CONKEY'S LICE POWDER.

TO KILL BODY LICE— For successfully fighting body lice, a gooc
powder is the most practical treatment. Fowls should be grasped by the
legs and held head downward, while CONKEY'S LICE POWDER,
which is the best combination of lice-killing agents known, should be
thoroughly dusted into the feathers, and should be well rubbed into the
skin, especially among the fluffy feathers.

The problem has been to find a good lice powder that at the same
time would not be injurious to the fowl. CONKEY'S LICE POWDER
IS ABSOLUTELY HARMLESS to the fowl, and it does rid the fowls
of lice. It acts in two ways, both by odor and by contact. Lousy fowls
should be dusted thoroughly every ten days, or two weeks, particularly
during hot weather, as the nits will hatch after the old lice are killed and

53

even though you kill every louse and nit on a towl, it a single one manages
later on to find lodgment on the fowl's body, its great capacity for increase
will soon cover the fowl and its mates again with lice. Sitting hens should
be dusted with CONKEY'S LICE POWDER several times as directed, and
all nests should be freely dusted.

(One point to remember is that with many lice preparations there
is danger of injuring the fowl or tainting the eggs. CONKEY'S
LICE POWDER is free from this objection and can be safely used
for dusting setting" hens or in nests.)

TO KILL HEAD LICE — Head lice are a constant menace to the health
of the adult fowls, and a greater factor in the destruction of little chicks
than all other causes combined. They fasten themselves on the heads of the
older fowls and suck the blood from a position just over the brain. Soon as
the chicks are hatched, they catch these head lice from the old hen, or from
the carelessly-kept brooder, and the lice immediately begin sucking their life
blood. Unless these head lice are destroyed at once, they become death war-
rants for a large portion of the hatch.

You must look very closely for them, as they get clear down to the base
of the feathers and may be mistaken for pin feathers. Their enormous size
readily explains their death-dealing power to little chicks. Chicks raised in
brooders are frequently troubled, so examine your chicks carefully. CON-
KEY'S HEAD LICE OINTMENT is a clean, non-poisonous, nicely per-
fumed ointment, which is perfectly harmless to little chicks and deadly
to these murderous lice. A little is all that is needed, and saving one chick
will pay you for all you would use on a hundred. Do not try to raise chicks
without it. It is also good for lice on children should they happen to catch
them.

TO KILL MITES— For the destruction of the much-dreaded mite, a
liquid is far superior to a powder, as it can be sprayed directly into their liv-
ing places where a powder cannot reach. CONKEY'S LICE LIQUID is cor-
rectly compounded, is always the same, and is guaranteed to do its work
quickly, effectively, and in a manner entirely satisfactory to you. This liquid
should be painted on the roosts, sprayed over the droppings boards, nest
boxes, and all parts of the building where there is any possibility of Mites
finding a hiding place. Care should be taken to paint the under sides of
roosts, and to fill all cracks and crevices with the liquid. Not only will this
kill the M'ites with which it comes in contact, but its fumes will get into
the feathers of the fowls when they go to roost, and will do excellent service
in helping kill the body lice. It is a strong disinfectant and germicide and
its frequent use will assist materially in keeping down disease. It comes in
different sized cans, as listed under the heading of CONKEY'S POULTRY
REMEDIES.

Before leaving this subject, we wish to outline a very quick, cheap, and
sure way to rid yourselves of these pests. In the afternoon take out all litter
and burn it; then remove the roosts, nest boxes, and all apparatus attached
to the walls, if at all possible, and thoroughly paint same with CONKEY'S
LICE LIQUID. Into each gallon of whitewash, which should have been
prepared ready for use, mix about a half pint of CONKEY'S LICE LIQUID,
or CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE if you have it With this, thoroughly spray
or paint every part of the house. Don't leave a crack or crevice that is not
thoroughly soaked with this preparation. Just before the fowls go to roost,
sprinkle each one with CONKEY'S LICE POWDER according to directions,
immediately putting the bird carefully on the roost before it has had time

56

to shake itself. After treating all of them in this manner, shut the house.
In an hour or two, open the door or curtain for a few minutes, as you will
find the house filled with the fumes from the powder, and it will be neces-
sary to let in some fresh air before closing the openings for the night. We
have known this plan to be followed by those whose houses and birds were!
"alive" with lice, with the result that the next day not a louse or mite could
be found even after the most rigid examination. The secret of keeping these
pests down lies in regularly going over the fowls and houses carefully.
Keeping everlastingly at it is the price of success.

THE DEPLUMING MITE

This parasite usually makes its appearance in the spring and summer
and attacks the roots or base of the feathers, which break off and leave a
bare spot. It is quickly passed from one fowl to another and rapidly spreads
through an entire flock. The bare spots left by the work of these mites will
not present an abnormal appearance but, if near-by feathers are removed, the
mites can be detected at their base, having the appearance of fine dust.

TREATMENT — All houses, roosts, etc., should be gone over carefully
with whitewash, in which has been mixed CONKEY'S LICE LIQUID or
CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE. The fowls should be annointed every few days
with CONKEY'S HEAD LICE OINTMENT, and this should be persisted
in. It will be found very effective to dip the fowls in a one-per-cent solu-
tion of NOX-I-CIDE — y* tumblerful to a pail of water — repeating the opera-
tion in from three to five days.

STICK-TIGHTS OR HEN FLEAS

The Stick-tight is a flea which is very annoying in many of the southern
states. It is sometimes called the Hen Flea and is a common pest in warm
climates. It is generally found attached to the comb and wattles, with its
head buried in the flesh. In many cases these insects are so crowded about
the eyes that the bird cannot see to eat. It is impossible for the bird to re-
move them, and, they cling so tightly that the poultryman cannot pick them
off.

TREATMENT— CONKEY'S FLEA SALVE effectually destroys stick-
tight fleas without harming the bird in the least degree. You may find them
on the bird in the morning after applying, but they will be dead and can
easily be brushed off. You must rid the premises of them also, for they will
be on the ground and in the houses. Spray the ground, houses, nests, and
roosts with a solution of CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDEr-one tumblerful to a
pail of water, and keep this up two or three times a week until the fleas
have entirely disappeared. Rub CONKEY'S FLEA SALVE on the comb
and wattles where you can see the fleas. It is not necessary to have a thick
application, but only enough to smear the fleas thoroughly. This salve will
not injure the fowl's eyes, and one application is usually sufficient, though a
second may be necessary in aggravated cases, and to kill the nits which may
hatch out. Fleas breed in dark, dry places, where the rain cannot reach, as
moisture stops this breeding. Deprive the fowls of all shade where rain
cannot reach.

Various Diseases

CHICKEN POX— SORE HEAD

This disease is known by different names in different localities, such as
Sore Head— Pigeon Pox— Warts and Plan. It is a fungus growth which

multiplies rapidly and develops in poultry houses that are not properly
cleaned, especially where accumulated droppings have become wet. Moisture
must be present to produce the growth. Chicken Pox is very contagious,
though not necessarily fatal, and is a very annoying and disgusting disease,
which brings down the general health of fowls and opens the way for other
diseases. It is often called the Small Pox of the poultry yard. If allowed
to run, it leads to weakness and death.

CAUSE — It is often introduced by new birds, though certain conditions
in a poultry house will start the disease. It is especially noticeable in damp,
cold weather, and in houses which are not kept clean and dry. It attacks
chickens, turkeys, pigeons and geese, but principally chickens and pigeons.

SYMPTOMS— Scabby warts on the comb, lobes, and face. These are
yellow and rough and resemble the common wart. When broken they dis-
charge a thick yellow liquid.

TREATMENT— Isolate all affected birds and thoroughly disinfect the
houses, etc., with a solution of CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE, one part to fifty of
water. Then dry out by opening doors and windows. CONKEY'S CHICK-
EN POX REMEDY is a combination salve and powder which come in the
same package. Apply the salve daily to affected parts, and the cure is
hastened if the warty growths are softened with warm water and soap, and
the tops of the warts are gently removed with a blunt instrument, before
.applying the salve. Place one teaspoonful of the powder in each quart of
soft feed, and give this to the birds once a day for four days and discontinue
for three days. If necessary to continue longer, use half the amount to each
quart of feed, keeping it up for three days, and so keep on, gradually re-
ducing the amount.

WHITE COMB

Many confuse this ailment with Favus, though it is entirely distinct.
It is quite a mild disease, showing an apparent white powdering of the comb,
which looks like flour, or Plaster of Paris. It sometimes extends over the
head and down the neck, causing the loss of feathers.

CAUSE — It is generally due to dirty quarters, or over-crowding in
houses, or a lack of green food. A frequent cause is a lack of fresh air, sun-
shine, range, etc., and close confinement. This is not of a fungoid origin,
and is not as highly contagious as Chicken Pox and Favus.

TREATMENT — White Comb succumbs to the same treatment as
Chicken Pox and Favus, and CONKEY'S CHICKEN POX REMEDY will
be found efficacious.

INFECTIOUS LEUKAEMIA:

This is not an uncommon disease, but one which is little understood or
suspected by the average poultryman. It is caused by bacteria which are
bred and nourished by unsanitary and foul conditions in brooders, poultry
houses, yards, etc. It is contagious and fatal.

. SYMPTOMS — Loss of strength, dullness and drowsiness. The tempera-
ture is two or three degrees higher than normal. The effect of the disease is
to increase the white and decrease the red corpuscles of the blood and, as a
.consequence, the comb, wattles, skin, and all visible mucous membranes, such

58

as those of the mouth and head passages, become pale. Death usually occurs
in from four to five days, though life may be prolonged for several weeks.

TREATMENT — Poultry premises should have a thorough cleaning and
•everything about the place should be thoroughly disinfected with CONKEY'S
NOX-I-CIDE, one part NOX-I-CIDE to 100 of water. This must be re-
peated daily until the disease is checked, and the utmost cleanliness must be
observed. Only clean, pure, wholesome food should be given, and drinking
water must be frequently changed, and should be given in fountains which
will keep out the filth and droppings from the birds. CONKEY'S POUL-
TRY TONIC should be fed daily in the mash.

FAVUS

This disease is a growth of the fungus known as "Achorion Schoneinii."
This same fungus has been known to attack man, as well as dogs, cats, mice,

rabbits and horses. It is easily acquired and
may attack the most healthy fowl. It is
highly contagious.

CAUSE— This growth may start in damp
and ill-ventilated quarters, or it may be ac-
quired by horses rubbing against infected trees
or posts and communicating it to fowls by
infection in the stables.

SYMPTOMS— Small white or gray spots
on the comb, round or irregular, from the
size of a. pin-head to that of a dime. They
extend in size and increase in numbers until
nearly all the skin of the affected part is cov-
ered. They then form in a thin scale or
crust on the surface of the skin. This crust
thickens as the disease advances and be-
comes cup-shaped in form; that is, raised on
the edges and depressed in the centers, and it
will keep on until the deposit may be a quarter
of an inch in thickness. While confined to

Illustration No. 33. the comb and head, Favus may be very suc-

cessfully treated but, if allowed to run until

it begins to appear in the region of the vent, it is difficult to cure and birds
may die of debility. In handling cases of genuine Favus, considerable care
should be taken. While the fungus of Favus will not attack the healthy
human skin, a slight crack, cut, or abrasion may become infected and turn
into an ugly sore.

TREATMENT — The same treatment as in Chicken Pox, which Favus
much resembles, will be found effective.

DROPSY

This is due to the accumulation of water or liquid, usually in the
abdominal cavity, and can be easily detected by 'the distention and by
feeling the parts. The swelling will not be hard, but will easily yield
to pressure, only to bulge out at another point. Affected fowls will lose
appetite and have every symptom of general debility,

TREATMENT is very unprofitable and unsatisfactory.

59

FROSTED COMB

There is no remedy for a frosted comb if it is allowed to thaw and
become black. It is, therefore, necessary that active treatment should be
given as soon as noticed.

TREATMENT— Where snow can be obtained apply the same with the
hand, holding it to the comb until all frost has been extracted. Then
annoint the comb with CONKEY'S HEALING SALVE, kneading it gently
while applying. If carefully attended to, only the extreme tips of the comb
need be lost and possibly you may be able to save the comb intact.

LEG WEAKNESS

This is usually caused by forcing the growth of the chick too rapidly,
especially broilers, and not providing in the ration sufficient muscle-producing
material. Another frequent cause is improper temperature in the brooder.
Where there is too much bottom heat, this trouble will be encountered. This
is also found in cases of metallic poisoning, birds losing entire control of
their legs.

SYMPTOMS — The name is a good indication of the nature of the
trouble. The fowl walks, or stands, with difficulty, and it may sit down
while eating. This is sometimes taken for rheumatism, but in leg weakness
the shank remains soft, while in rheumatism it dries up and becomes hard
and contracted.

TREATMENT — If the cause is improper heat in the brooder, change
it. If improper feeding, build up the general health by discontinuing heavy
carbonaceous foods, such as cornmeal, bran, corn, etc., and give wheatbran,
boiled beans, Canadian peas, together with meat meal and a goodly supply
of alfalfa or clover ^meal in the mash. CONKEY'S POULTRY TONIC
should be fed daily in mash, and rusty nails, or old iron, put in drinking
water. Cut down the food supply, as overfeeding is a most frequent cause.
In case of poisoning, give milk, whites of eggs, or some good emulsion of
cod liver oil, daily.

RHEUMATISM

This disease is much the same as in the human family and, while it is
not fatal, it keeps the fowls in a totally unprofitable condition.

CAUSE — Rheumatism is occasioned by exposure to dampness, cold
weather, or may be due to poorly constructed houses, improper care and
feeding, etc.

SYMPTOMS — It is indicated by stiffness of the joints with more or
less contraction of the muscles. Birds walk stiffly and lame, and lack energy
and activity.

TREATMENT — Provide dry, bright quarters. A large amount of
green food should be given, particularly alfalfa or clover, and very little
meat or animal food should be fed. CONKEY'S RHEUMATIC REMEDY
is very effective in relieving the fowls from this trouble and restoring them
to health and usefulness.

APOPLEXY

Apoplexy is the result of a ruptured blood vessel of the brain, and the
pressure of the blood that escapes therefrom.

60

CAUSE — It is caused by violent exertion, fright and by great straining
while laying eggs — hens being sometimes found dead on the nests. They
will occasionally be attacked while on the roost and drop off, or may sud-
denly fall and die when in the yard.

TREATMENT — Very little, if anything, can be done for the cure of
this trouble. Preventive treatment is the best and, for this, see that fowls
have plenty of exercise and a properly balanced ration in proper quantities.
If you wish to attempt treatment, follow directions under "Congestion of the
Brain".

CONGESTION OF THE BRAIN

Like apoplexy, this is not a common disease, and yet some poultrymen's
birds suffer to quite an extent from it Over-fat birds are the principal
victims, though exposure to extremely hot rays of the sun will produce it.
You will usually find intestinal worms present in affected birds.

SYMPTOMS — Giddiness, convulsions, and uncertainty in walking. The
head is thrown backward and upward. Sometimes the bird will appear
drowsy and stupefied.

TREATMENT — Provide a quiet, cool, and sanitary place for the bird.
Apply very cold water or ice to the head, as it is important to reduce the
temperature. Give a good dose of CONKEY'S POULTRY LAXATIVE
and repeat if necessary. If you see evidence of intestinal worms treat as
suggested under that heading.

FITS

The cause of this disease is more or less guess work. It may be due
to the pressure of worms in the intestines, or to pressure on the brain. The
fowl will be subject to convulsions and unconsciousness, but may gradually
recover and become apparently well.

TREATMENT — Little or nothing can be done unless the trouble is
due to worms, in which case treat as indicated under that heading. If this
does not cure, it is best to kill the fowl.

BUMBLE FOOT

This is no more or less than a stone bruise, and is generally caused by
the fowl jumping from the roost on to some hard substance, thereby bruising
the foot, although it may be caused in other ways.

SYMPTOMS — It is indicated by a hard, calloused substance on the
bottom of the foot. This will become inflamed, causing much irritation and
suffering. The fowl will favor this foot while walking or running and
rests the foot while standing.

TREATMENT — If you notice it in its early stages, before pus has
formed underneath the surface, the difficulty may be overcome by soaking
the foot in warm water, paring off the hard substance, and painting it with
tincture of iodine; but if pus has formed, then an incision should be made
into the pus cavity with a sharp knife which has previously been dipped
in a solution of NOX-I-CIDE and water. The hard substance should be
pared off, the wound should be carefully washed with NOX-I-CIDE
solution and, when dry, CONKEY'S HEALING POWDER should be

61

applied. The foot should then be so wrapped up with cotton cloth as to
protect the wound and keep out all foreign matter. The pen should be
covered with fresh, clean straw to prevent further injury. It is well to dress
the wound once a day for several days, until it is fairly well healed. Study
the original cause of this trouble and remedy it.

WIND PUFF (AIR BLISTER)

This appears mostly in little chicks. Its cause is an open question. It
may be recognized by a puffing up of the skin, air being present underneath.
Puncture the skin with a needle, or sharp, thin knife, and if this does not
effect a cure, cut out a small piece of the skin and apply CONKEY'S
HEALING POWDER to the surface.

CUTS, BRUISES, BURNS, ETC

Birds are liable to these accidents and it is well to attend to them
immediately, as such wounds permit the entrance of bacteria to the system,
which might prove fatal.

TREATMENT— Wash the affected part with a solution of CON-
KEY'S NOX-I-CIDE, two teaspoonfuls to a quart of warm water. Allow
to dry and then apply CONKEY'S HEALING POWDER. Repeat every
other day until cured. If you have not the NOX-I-CIDE, use Castile soap
and warm water, applying CONKEY'S HEALING POWDER as above.
You will not only prevent complications, but you will be surprised at the
speedy recovery. Fowls should be separated and placed in coop containing
litter of clean, dry straw, or similar material, so that foreign matter cannot
enter into the sores.

BROKEN LEGS

Fractures sometimes occur even in the best-regulated poultry yards. ^ If
a little chick, or growing fowl, is the sufferer, it may be cured by bringing
the broken parts together and winding around the leg a piece of clean
cotton cloth. Use toothpicks, or larger pieces of wood, for splints or
supports, and bandage these between the layers of cloth. A half dozen
winding will be enough. Sew firmly to the bandage and allow them to
remain until the leg is healed. It will take but a short time. It is not
wise to try this with heavy fowls, or to treat broken bones other than those
of the legs. If there is an abrasion of the surface, it would be well to
wash it with a weak solution of CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE before dressing.

MOLTING

Molting is shedding the feathers. This is a natural function which
should occur annually. It is a very trying period on the bird, and every-
thing possible should be done to lessen the suffering and to shorten the
period. Some advocate feeding nothing for a week or ten days, thus
forcing -the feathers to be dropped quickly; then, after the feathers have
been dropped, to feed heavily, especially with animal foods, and those
containing a high percentage of protein.

We think it best to underfeed slightly and to give simple foods. See
that a liberal supply of green food, such as clover or alfalfa, is given. Give
warm mashes in the morning, putting in a teaspoonful of CONKEY'S POUL-
TRY TONIC to each quart and making the mash crumbly. Feed grain
in the litter and make the fowls work. It will be found of great value to
put in each mash a quantity of linseed meal. A plentiful supply of beef

scrap, or similar animal food, should be kept before the fowls, especially
after the feathers have been dropped and new ones begin to come in. This
is of the greatest importance. Keep the fowls free from lice and provide
them with clean, dry, and sanitary quarters. Remember that the fowls'
vitality is low at this period, and they are therefore peculiarly susceptible
to disease. CONKEY'S POULTRY TONIC will keep up the strength and
protect your flock.

Injurious Habits and Vices

EGG EATING

While this is more of a habit than a disease, it is often caused by a
physical longing for oyster shell, or other lime-containing, shell-making
material, and the absence of sufficient animal food in the diet. It is a most
annoying and expensive habit and a difficult one ir> break. No sooner is
there an egg laid than it is eagerly eaten, and r*^ fowl quickly teaches
the others until a number in the flock may be seen tc rush for an egg as
soon as it is deposited in the nest.

TREATMENT— One of the best methods is to make a F«.nall incision
in either end of an egg and allow the contents to run out. Then make a
mixture of soft soap and red pepper and refill the egg, closing the ends
with court plaster and placing a number in the nests where the fowls can
get at them. If these are eaten, fill others. It should not take long to
sicken the fowls of the habit. If you will see that fowls are kept busy, that
shell-making material is provided, such as oyster shell, mortar, bone etc.,
and that the nests are dark and well supplied with straw, you will have but
little trouble from this cause. Remember to darken nests as much as
practicable, have china nest eggs, and always collect freshly-laid eggs as
quickly as possible. BEAR IN MIND THAT THERE IS A DIFFER-
ENCE BETWEEN SHELL-MAKING MATERIAL AND GRIT. THE
FOWLS NEED BOTH AND NO ONE SUBSTANCE WILL ANSWER
FOR BOTH PURPOSES.

FEATHER EATING

This is a bad habit and is usually caused by a desire for meat or insect
food, giving too much carbonaceous food, and a lack of exercise. Rarely
does this habit develop among fowls that have free range, or that are fed
balanced rations.

TREATMENT— Give the fowls more range if possible. Spade up
the yard, bury the grain food in the loose earth and make the fowls work
for it. When grain is fed in the evening, scatter the same in the litter. In
winter feed grain in deep litter. Provide plenty of animal food. Never
feed enough to make fowls lazy. Keep them busy — thinking of something
else.

PREVENTION OF DISEASE

"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" is a saying
that has proved its truth by years of demonstration. Most of the diseases
of poultry can be traced to carelessness or to unsanitary and dirty quarters.
While the housing, feeding, etc., must be given due attention, cleanliness is
of paramount importance.

Disease germs are found wherever filth and dirt abound. Even though
the droppings of the fowls are frequently removed, it is not all that should

63

be done to render the premises sanitary. A liquid disinfectant should always
be kept on hand /and, while absolutely effective, it must be perfectly harmless
to the stock. This should be sprayed in and about the houses, pens, barns,
etc., AFTER A THOROUGH CLEANING HAS TAKEN PLACE. A
disinfectant is not a labor-saver for a lazy man, but a money-maker for the
industrious and careful man. IT IS NOT INTENDED TO COVER UP
FILTH, and will not take the place of the shovel and the hoe, but it will
deodorize, kill the germs, and make everything sweet and wholesome after
the filth has been removed.

The germ theory of disease has ceased to be a theory — it has proved
itself to be a fact! Once the germ is introduced, disease will continue
until the germs have been exterminated. Nothing equals a proper disin-
fectant. Realizing the necessity of an article that could be absolutely relied
upon, and would be so inexpensive that the cost would cut but little figure,
and that would be easy to apply, we have placed on the market^CONKEY'S
NOX-I-CIDE, a soluble deodorant and germ destroyer that is unequaled,
anywhere, for strength and efficiency. It is of the greatest value for dis-
infecting poultry houses, runs, brooders, dog kennels, stables, cesspools,
sinks, drains, slop-bowls, and for household use and sick-rooms. See
description on another page, and send for special booklet on CONKEY'S
NOX-I-CIDE.

Conkey's Poultry Remedies

The nature of poultry diseases has been our study for years, and our
researches have been so thorough and practical, that we are the acknowledged
authority along that line, while our remedies have become standard in every
civilized country of the world. Many have put out "cure-alls," which they
recommend alike for various classes of disease, while common sense pre-
scribes a separate and specific remedy and treatment for each particular
disease. We have not made our investigations on general lines, but have
studied each disease by itself and in its proper relation to other diseases,
and on this logical basis we have compounded our remedies. They do not
work in a roundabout way, or in a general manner, but each finds its way
immediately to the seat of trouble to reach the disease at once.

The greatest secret of curing disease is to apply the remedy in the
earlier stages, and we have put up our remedies in such convenient form
that they can be administered at once and with the least inconvenience.
They are inexpensive and should be kept on hand, so that they can be used
at the logical moment without waiting to send for them.

Because of the excellence of our remedies, we positively guarantee them,
not only to be exactly as represented, and to do just what we claim for
them, BUT TO PLEASE YOU and, if they fail to satisfy you, for any
reason, we will refund your money cheerfully without the least argument or
red tape.

FREE ADVICE

Many poultrymen have trouble recognizing certain diseases among their
fowls. We have therefore opened A BUREAU OF INFORMATION
which will furnish, ABSOLUTELY FREE OF CHARGE, advice regarding
any sick fowls, with diagnosis and prescription and directions for general
care and treatment. WRITE TO US AT ANY TIME. YOUR WANTS
WILL HAVE PROMPT ATTENTION AND THE BEST ADVICE
THAT WE CAN OFFER.

04

COMMON MEASURES

(Approximate)

60 drops equal 1 teaspoonful.
4 teaspoonfuls equal 1 tablespoonful.
8 teaspoonfuls equal 1 ounce.
4 ounces equal 1 gill.
4 gills equal 1 pint.

2 pints equal 1 quart.

4 quarts equal 1 gallon.

3 gallons (about) equal 1 pailful.

How to Make a 1% Solution (1 Part to 100).

y2 teaspoonful to 1 tumbler (about 8 oz.) of water.

1 teaspoonful to 1 pint of water.

8 teaspoonfuls to 1 gallon of water.
y2 tumbler to 1 pail of water.

1 tumbler (8 oz.) to 6y& gallons of water.

1 pint to 12^4 gallons of water.

CONKEY'S ROUP REMEDY— This truly superior remedy is used
in every civilized country of the world. It is the old stand-by. Until it
was brought out Roup was considered incurable. Innumerable trials
under every condition and in every climate prove its
effectiveness if given in anything like reasonable time.
THIS REMEDY SHOULD BE KEPT ON HAND
so that you do not have to wait and let your fowls die
before applying it. Fowls are many times cured of
Roup, even in more advanced stages, by dipping their
heads according to special directions with package.
Even in very bad cases if the remedy can be made to
reach the membranes of head and throat passages, it
will prove successful, providing that the fowl has
enough vitality left for any foundation. If attended to
earlier, you avoid the trouble of individual treatment.
CONKEY'S ROUP REMEDY is also excellent for
Turkeys. We especially recommend it for CANKER
IN PIGEONS. If your poultry supply dealer or drug-
gist cannot supply you, send to us direct. Prices 50c
and $1.00, post-paid.

CpNKEY'S BRONCHITIS REMEDY — Bron-
chitis is an inflammation of the membranes of the bron-
chial tubes. Very often it is confused with Roup. While
it often appears in a flock where there is Roup, it is a
distinct disease and calls for treatment with a special
remedy.

The careful discrimination between this disease
and genuine Roup will save you many a fowl besides*
the useless trouble of treating for one disease when it
is entirely another. Price 50c post-paid.

65

CONKEY'S CHOLERA REMEDY— When a fowl is attacked by
diseases of the digestive organs, there is a loss of appetite and a greatly
increased thirst; therefore we have put out this remedy in such a form
that it must be given in the drinking water. As the fever creates a con-
tinuous and violent desire i'or water, the logic of this treatment can be
appreciated. Most of the so-called cholera remedies on
the market are powders directed to be given in the food.
Realizing the utter absurdity of trying to cure the fowl
in that manner, since the sick bird loses its appetite for
food we have put out CONKEY'S CHOLERA REMEDY
in such a form that the fowl will take its own medi-
cine. This preparation is entirely different from any-
thing else ever put out, and can be absolutely relied
upon as the most dependable Cholera Remedy made.
It has a soothing, cooling effect on the hot and in-
flamed membranes and reduces the fever at once. For
the treatment of Cholera, Indigestion, Bowel Trouble,
Diarrhoea, and all kindred troubles in chicks or grown
fowls, this remedy is excellent. CONKEY'S CHOL-
ERA REMEDY is a common-sense insurance against
a great variety of the troubles known to poultrymen. It should be kept
on hand by everyone who raises little chicks, as it will be needed at once
on appearance of indigestion or bowel trouble. We guarantee ' it to
satisfy you. Prices 25c and 50c postpaid.

CONKEY'S CHICKEN POX (Sorehead) REMEDY— It is a reli-
able remedy for a disgusting and dangerous disease. Chicken pox is
known in different localities by entirely different names, being called Pian,
Sore-head, Warts, and Pigeon Pox. They are all the same contagious
and loathsome disease and can be cured if taken in anything like proper
time.

It is very important in treating this disease that absolute cleanliness
should be considered and, while we sell CONKEY'S
NOX-I-CIDE in separate packages and for a separate
price, it should be considered an important part of the
treatment for Chicken Pox. Unless you clean and disin-
fect the house so as to kill the disease germs, a fresh
outbreak is liable to occur at any time.

The salve is applied to the warty growths according
to directions, while the powder is given in the soft feed
to drive the disease from the blood. You will find it a
very successful treatment and will never use another
after a thorough knowledge of its effectiveness in com-
batting this annoying and nauseating disease, which is
well named the "Small Pox" of the poultry yard.
Prices 50c or 55c, postpaid.

CONKEY'S LIMBER NECK REMEDY— Limber neck may prove
to be a very fatal disease, as it takes but a little time to terminate in death
if a remedy is not at hand. We would certainly advise poultrymen to provide
themselves with a package of CONKEY'S LIMBER NECK REMEDY at
once, and not to wait until the disease is established and they learn its fatal

"66

nature by costly experience. In the first place it is a
very easy matter for the fowls to acquire this disease.
It is a ptomaine poisoning which comes from the fowls
eating putrefying flesh. A dead rat under the barn, or a
dead fowl in some out-of-the-way corner, may cause this
deadly ailment when you are not prepared to meet it
and, before you can send and procure the remedy, many
of your fowls are past saving. While Limber Neck is
terribly fatal when no remedy is available, it is a very
easy disease to master when CONKEY'S LIMBER
NECK REMEDY is at hand, and we are receiving en-
dorsements from many poultrymen who have cured
their fowls, though they have believed this disease in-
curable in years past, because they did not have the
remedy on hand. DON'T LET IT BE TOO QUICK
FOR YOU, but insure your flocks by having it on your
shelf. One day's treatment should result in decided improvement.
CONKEY'S LIMBER NECK REMEDY is a special remedy for this
one disease only. Do not be deceived by substitution of anything that
is claimed to cure both this and other diseases. The age of cure-alls has
passed and poultrymen are realizing that each disease should have its
special remedy. Prices, 50c or 55c, postpaid.

CONKEY'S SCALY LEG REMEDY— Scaly Leg is a parasitic dis-
ease— the parasites burrowing under the scales of the
legs and feet as described on page 53. Scaly leg is
very contagious. It is not fatal, but it ruins the ap-
pearance of the birds and also saps their vitality
and usefulness. This remedy is simple to apply and
is guaranteed to cure. It is also excellent as a dress-
ing for the feet and legs of show birds, increasing:
their "point" value, and putting them in the very
best possible condition as prize winners. Price, 25c.

CONKEY'S GAPE REMEDY — This is a reliable remedy for
this extremely troublesome disease. Many people have experimented with
irritating powders, fumes, smoke, etc., but have found them not only inef-
fectual, but positively dangerous to the fowls. They have
also used extractors, horsehairs, wires, etc., with no great-
er satisfaction.

In CONKEY'S GAPE REMEDY we have a prep-
aration guaranteed to do the work and satisfy you. This
remedy tones up the system, and acting through the cir-
culation it is brought into contact with the worms. Gapes
is such a dangerous disease that we advise you never
to be without this remedy when you have little chicks.
Given occasionally in the feed, it will be found an ex-
cellent preventive. Prices, 50c or 60c, postpaid.

Among ihe different chick diseases there is not one
which causes the poultryman more annoyance. We feel
gratified to be able to offer you a preparation of genuine merit in CON-
KEY'S GAPE REMEDY.

67

CONKEY'S WHITE DIARRHOEA REMEDY— This is one of the

most helpful articles ever put out. Thousands and thousands of little
chicks die each year from this fatal White- Diarrhoea. The disease long
baffled scientists and practical poultrymen alike. Many are still arguing a,s
to just what causes this fatal pasty discharge which each year carries off
a large percentage of all chicks hatched. Whether it is the germs Coc-
cidium tennelum or the Bacterium Pullorum scientists may argue, but
we know this: CONKEY'S WHITE DIARRHOEA REMEDY in the
drinking water acts on the specific organism which causes the disease
and saves the hatch.

As cautioned Page 43 every effort should be made to prevent this
disease getting a start in the flock. Care should be taken to select eggs
from good stock and then to treat these eggs before setting them in
the incubator. Wiping with 95% grain alcohol is usually recommended,
but dipping the tray of eggs boldly in a 3% solution of Conkey's Nox-i-
cide will answer the same purpose and be found much less expensive as
well as more convenient. To make a 3% solution use 2 tablespoonful.s
Conkey's Nox-i-cide to each quart of water. Of course the solution
should be warm when used. To sterilize the incubator, brooder, etc.,
use a stronger solution, about 10% Nox-i-cide,

After the chicks are hatched use Conkey's White Diarrhoea Rem-
edy in the drinking water from the start, and thus avoid infection.

This is preventive. But even after the disease gets a start in the
flock the chicks can be treated successfully, by the use of Conkey's
White Diarrhoea Remedy in the drinking water. The water remains
pleasant to the taste, so the chicks will take it readily. Even in bad
cases, when chicks are gummed at the vent, the treatment is success-
ful, provided the hardened accumulation around the vent is removed
very carefully, as explained page 25 and the White Diarrhoea Rem-
edy used in the drinking water.

Never take chances with White Diarrhoea. Have a package of
Conkey's White Diarrhoea Remedy on hand and use it for prevention.
We guarantee satisfaction whether used as a preventive or as a rem-
edy. Prices, 25c and 50c postpaid.

CONKEY'S POULTRY TONIC— is a remedy espe-
cially valuable for fowls run down, off feed, recovering
from disease, or during moulting season. It is also excel-
lent for little chicks which do not seem to thrive. This is
made to meet a growing demand for a tonic to be given
in cases which are not thoroughly classified or under-
stood. It is a general invigorator, quickly bringing birds
to a normal condition. Prices, 25c or 30c postpaid.

CONKEY'S BLACKHEAD REMEDY— A special
remedy for Blackhead (Entero-hepatitis). This has been
used many times and in many places with most excel-
lent results and is guaranteed to please you. Price, 50c
postpaid.

CONKEY'S RHEUMATIC REMEDY— This is a

highly successful combination treatment consisting of
a powder to be taken internally, and a liniment for apptying direct to
the affected part. It will be found dependable if used according to direc-
tions. Your satisfaction is guaranteed. Price, 50c, or 55c postpaid.

CONKEY'S POULTRY WORM REMEDY— This is a most neces-
sary article, as it rids the fowl of harmful as well as other worms, pro-
moting the return of a healthful condition. Price, 50c, postpaid.

68

CONKEY'S POULTRY LAXATIVE— As a reli-
able laxative is often needed by itself, or in connection
with another poultry remedy, we have added a prepara-
tion which is dependable, and entirely harmless. It can
be used as a laxative or purgative according to the dose.
It is compounded for poultry especially, is always of
the same strength, and does its work thoroughly with-
out depleting the energy or usefulness of the fowl.
It is a great help to the man who makes money from
poultry. Price, 25c, postpaid.

CONKEY'S HEALING SALVE— The poultryman
should not fail to keep this remedy on hand. It is a
good antiseptic ointment and has many uses in healing
various wounds, cuts, sores, and eruptions. Equally
valuable for human use. This article will be found
highly satisfactory in every way, and very inexpens-
ive. Price, 25c, postpaid.

CONKEY'S HEAD LICE OINTMENT— Thou-
sands of little chicks are killed each year by head
lice — the largest blood-sucking louse that infests
poultry. Head lice cause more loss of chicks than
all other causes combined, both directly and by
weakening the chick's health and affording opportu-
nity for other troubles. CONKEY'S HEAD LICE
OINTMENT is a carefully prepared non-poisonous,
semi-liquid article with an agreeable odor, and is

very destructive to the murderous lice while harmless to the little chicks
if used as directed. (It is unexcelled for killing lice on little children).
It should be remembered that powders are not effective in
killing head lice, and this is the only practical way to reach
them. Easy to apply, and a little does the work. It will pay
for itself in saving one chick. Prices, 1 oz. tube, lOc; 3 oz.
tube, 25c, postpaid.

CONKEY'S LICE POWDER— For successfully ridding
fowls of body lice nothing can equal a powder which is prop-
erly made. We consider this one of the best of our various
preparations and offer you an article which is of a strength to
make it entirely effective and at the same time harmless to the
fowl. It does not simply make the lice move, but it really kills
them. To prove this for yourself, simply dust a fowl thor-
oughly with CONKEY'S LICE POWDER, then stand it on
a sheet of white paper and ruffle its feathers, and the lice may
be found really dead on the paper. Lice simply cannot exist
where CONKEY'S LICE POWDER is properly used.
Hens that spend the day picking and scratching, in a vain
effort to rid themselves of parasites, cannot give you sat-
isfactory returns and because of their lack of vitality, are
susceptible to all kinds of disease. CONKEY'S LICE
POWDER is guaranteed to please you. It will kill lice
on poultry, cattle, horses, fleas on dogs, and vermin of
all kinds. It can be used also for bugs on cucumbers,
squash, and melon vines, slugs on rose bushes, etc. It is
an effective disinfectant and germ destroyer. Prices:
5 oz. pkg., lOc, or ISc, postpaid; 15 oz. pkg., 25c, or 40c
postpaid; 48 oz. pkg., 50c, expressage extra; 100 oz. pkg.,
$1.00, expressage extra.

CONKEY'S LICE LIQUID— There are a great many poultrymen
who do not seem to understand that the Mite requires entirely different
treatment than the ordinary louse. There is no powder made that
will entirely rid you of the Mite, and until you
are rid of him he will multiply until every fowl you
have is rendered useless or dies from exhaustion.
In our opinion, the Mite will do more to reduce
the profit of your fowls than all other varieties of
vermin combined. CONKEY'S LICE LIQUID will
immediately destroy these terrible pests, and will rid
your poultry house of its greatest profit killer.

It can be painted on the roosts and applied to
cracks and crevices, with a brush, full strength.
Then mix 1 part CONKEY'S LICE LIQUID with
25 to 50 parts water and spray the whole house
thoroughly. Repeat in a week or 10 days. This
makes an excellent disinfectant and germ destroyer
and is cheap as it mixes with water. It renders the
house pure, and wholesome, and free from infection. It is the very
best Mite liquid made and we guarantee it to do the work if the
simple directions which come with the can are followed. Mites attack
the fowls only when they are on the roosts; they cover their bodies,
suck their blood, and hide by day in the roosts and walls. They
do not remain on the bodies of the fowls. Prices of CONKEY'S
LICE LIQUID, 1 quart 35c; 2 quarts, 60c; 1 gallon, $1.00. Expressage
extra.

CONKEY'S FLEA SALVE— This is a special exterminator for
the Sticktight or Southern Flea. This troublesome parasite does not
succumb to the ordinary lice killers, but this salve will rid the fowl
of them in one, or at most, very few, applications. Prices, 25c, or 30c,
postpaid.

CONKEY'S LAYING TONIC— For the hen to lay the greatest
number of eggs, her health must be kept in perfect condition and
the egg producing organs kept free from irritation and disease. There
have been put upon the market many so-called egg producers which
are irritants in themselves, while others are simply frauds, producing
no effect whatever, and having no value except, perhaps, as foods for
which you are paying ridiculous prices

CONKEY'S LAYING TONIC is a
result of years of careful study and ex-
periment, and is a compound of vege-
table extracts, herbs, roots, etc., so pro-
portioned as to act gently on the egg-
producing organs to remove any irregu-
larity which may exist, and to invigorate
and tone the system to a point only that
is perfectly natural in the highest state
of the vigor and health of the fowl. It
is not a false stimulant to be followed
by a corresponding depression and lack
of vigor, but it is a corrective that can be
absolutely relied upon as in accord with
scientific knowledge of fowls and their or-

70

gans of reproduction. Any hen will lay eggs under normal conditions, but
the domestic fowl is not in its natural habitat in the first place, and in
addition you demand eggs in the winter, under conditions unknown
to its wild and natural state. And still some thoughtless or ignorant
people say to follow nature, when, if you take their advice, your fowls
would not lay enough in a year to pay for their keeping for six months.
Not only must that which is lost from its changed mode of living, but that
which is demanded above its natural production, be made up in some way
or another. It must be made up in scientific care and feeding, or its
capacity is stunted instead of increased as we demand. A properly-
made tonic, to stimulate eg«- production in a common sense manner,
becomes a necessity. CONKEY'S LAYING TONIC has this object in
view — to keep the bowels in good condition, to assist digestion and assimi-
lation of egg-producing and strength making material, to give vigor to
the fowls and to induce exercise, so as to tone the bird up generally to
meet our unnatural demands. By doing this the fowl is kept at its best,
and egg production can be depended upon. We are in the chicken busi-
ness for money, and is it not better to keep a fowl at its maximum pro-
duction for two years, and then renew the stock, than to keep a fowl
for three, four and five years at a lower rate of production?

CONKEY'S LAYING TONIC is not a food in ^ itself and, in its use,
you escape paying for bran and middlings which comprise the bulk of inferior
"egg producers," and which you can supply for less money from your own
bins. The ingredients used by us are reliable and effective. THERE IS
NOT ONE PARTICLE OF FILLER IN THIS TONIC, and that is why
we guarantee that if given according to directions, it will increase egg
production. Don't confuse this with cheaper preparations, or with those
which may have disappointed you. CONKEY'S LAYING TONIC will
insure strength in cocks, more eggs and more fertile ones from hens, and
rapid growth and vigorous life in little chicks. It is a big amount of
value at small cost. CONKEY'S LAYING TONIC should never be fed
alone; it is a strong medicine and must be mixed with food as directed.
Prices, V/2 lb. pkg., 25c; 3^ Ib. pkg., 50c; 7 lb., $1.00; 25 Ib. pail, $3.00.
Expressage 25c extra on three smaller pkgs., 50c extra on 7 lb. pkg., and
freight extra, 25c on pail. Expressage and freight mentioned applies only
to points east of the Rockies.

CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE— (Formerly called Taroline). This is the
poultryman's best friend. The majority of dangerous poultry diseases may
be traced to the presence of germs which thrive in
Elth and uncleanliness. CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE
is a soluble disinfectant, deodorant and germ de-
fetroyer. It mixes with water, in correct propor-
tion for using, one gallon making 101 gallons of
ready-to-use liquid. It is the cheapest and most
effective article of its kind ever «put out. For
poultry, it is an unexcelled article for cleaning and
purifying the houses, runs, brooders, founts, and
utensils. For household use it is of wonderful
value in almost every department. It is unequaled
for the sick room, and for purifying everything
about the house, barns, outhouses, kennels, etc.

Our special booklet on NOX-I-CIDE will in-
terest and surprise you. It shows hundreds of
uses for which NOX-I-CIDE is especially adapted
Ifis excellent for all live stock and IS A HIGH-
GRADE SHEEP DIP, It is recommended for cuts, galls, scratches,

71

El

thrush, cracks, fissures, etc. It is an ideal disinfectant, as
it removes odors, prevents flies from breeding, and sweetens and purifies
everything it touches. It is excellent for eczema and skin diseases
generally even for humanity. There is hardly a place in all domestic
economy where NOX-I-CIDE will ever be dispensed with after it has
once been tried. GET A COPY OF OUR SPECIAL ILLUSTRATED
NOX-I-CIDE BOOKLET, for it will be found decidedly interesting and
helpful. Prices, $1.50 per gallon ; half gallon, 90c; 1 quart, 60c; small
size, 35c. Expressage extra. (Western prices, $1.50 gallon; 90c half
gallon; 60o quart; 35c small size.)

CONKEY'S SULPHUR FUMIGATING CANDLES— They are easy
to light, safe to use, and have protecting tin basins. They weigh ^4 pound
each and burn for one hour. Sulphur fumes are deadly to all germ and in-
sect life, and neutralize germ infection when the air is moist. To success-
fully utilize sulphur fumes, the air should be well steamed before lighting the
candles. Sulphur fumes in a dry air do not do the work intended. In places
where water cannot be boiled, a very hot brick or stone in a pan of water will
furnish the necessary steam. Then light the candles and close the place tightly
for several hours. It may be necessary to use several of the candles at one
time if the premises are large. Be careful to remove birds or pet animals.
Prices, per box of 1 dozen packed neatly, $1.00. Each lOc— 3 for 25c.
By mail, add 5c each to cover postage. Expressage extra.

Dog Remedies

CONKEY'S DISTEMPER REMEDY— Distemper is caused by a
germ and is contagious. A weakened condition favors the disease. Pure-bred
f puppies suffer greatly from it, al-

though one attack usually gives
immunity from a recurrence.

SYMPTOMS— The disease be-
gins with a chill, followed by
fever, the temperature going to
107 degrees. There is a discharge
from the nose and eyes, sticking
the lids together. Usually a rash
breaks out on the inside of the thighs.
In some cases there are nervous symp-
toms, jerking of the head, twitching of
the muscles, or moaning. The bowels
may be constipated, or there may be a
severe diarrhoea with fetid odor. The
disease runs its course in from ten to
thirty days.

TREATMENT— In early stages give
YZ ounce of Castor Oil every six
hours until bowels move thoroughly.
Injections of glycerine (per rectum)
hasten laxative action. Give CON-
KEY'S DISTEMPER REMEDY ac-
cording to directions. Nose and eyes should be washed frequently with
warm water, then greased with vaseline. Throat and nostrils should
be sprayed three times a day with CONKEY'S PAIN LOTION. The
eyes should be treated with CONKEY'S EYE LOTION. The animal
should be given beef tea, evaporated milk, fresh eggs, minced raw

72

Beet and gruels. Allow cold, fresh water at all times. There are many
complications that may occur with this disease, such as Pneumonia, Bron-
chitis, Inflammation of the Brain, and of the Spinal Cord, and Paralysis,
usually of the hind quarters, and Abscesses are likely to form on some parts
of the body. Another common sequel is Chorea or St. Vitus dance, as shown
by a jerking of some parts of the body. All premises should be kept thor-
oughly disinfected with CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE according to directions
on package. CONKEY'S DISTEMPER REMEDY is 50c, or 55c, post-
paid.

NOTE: DISTEMPER IN CATS — Distemper in cats should receive the
same treatment as for dogs, reducing the dose to J4 amount, however.

CONKEY'S MANGE REMEDY— Like Distemper, Mange is a very
infectious disease. It may be contracted from other dogs or from infected
utensils, crates, etc. It is caused by a minute parasite which bores
under the skin, rapidly multiplying in numbers, and causing the most intense
itching. The animal bites and scratches itself continuously and loses flesh
and strength. It first appears at the joints under the forelegs, on the fore-
head, chest, or root of the tail, and spreads until the animal becomes a
loathsome object.

TREATMENT — First provide clean, dry quarters. No remedy can
overcome this disease unless absolute cleanliness and sanitation are main-
tained. Quarters should be free from dampness and drafts and should be
daily disinfected with CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE. Bedding should be
burned frequently and new, clean, dry straw provided. Wash the animal
thoroughly in a solution of CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE, one tablespoonful
to a quart of warm water according to directions. Apply CONKEY'S
MANGE REMEDY according to directions on package. It will relieve
the intense itching, cool the skin and destroy the germs. Tie the animal
so that it cannot have access to dirt, but will stay on its clean straw.
Where the dog may rub, disinfect the spot or object with a strong solu-
tion cf CONKEY'S NOX-I-CIDE. To allay the fever, CONKEY'S
DISTEMPER REMEDY should be given once or twice a day. This is
not absolutely necessary, but it will hasten recovery. CONKEY'S
MANGE REMEDY is guaranteed to please in cases of Mange on either
dogs or cats, and is an excellent remedy for Eczema, Canker, Sore Ears,
Ringworn, and all forms cf parasitic skin diseases. Price, SOc; 75c ex-
press paid.

CONKEY'S WORM DROPS— The dog flea is the common carrier of
the larvae of the worms that often affect dogs. The symptoms of this
trouble may be various, such as diarrhoea, loss of weight, restlessness,
rubbing of hindquarters, muscles twitching, colic, fits, etc. Portions of worms
are sometimes found in the excrement. CONKEY'S WORM DROPS have
been positively proven a successful remedy. They will remove the worms
without any injury to grown dogs or young puppies. This is a very common
ailment and every dog owner should keep on hand a package of CONKEY'S
WORM DROPS, ready for trouble. Price SOc, 65c express paid.

CONKEY'S DOG TONIC— For dogs that are run down, off feed,
clebilitated^from any cause, or those recovering from disease. This tonic b
giving satisfaction and can be depended on to bring the dog quickly to
condition. Price, SOc, or 55c, postpaid.

CONKEY'S PI-NO— We call attention here to the special value of
this mild disinfectant for use in the dog's bath and to rid the animal of
fleas. Pleasant to uce and very effective as a germicide, insecticide, etc.
Keeps the skin in clean, healthy condition, improves the coat and heals
cuts, sores or scratches. Prices, 7 oz., 25c; pint can, SOc; quart, 75c; half
gallon, $1. Express extra. See also page 80 and write for special booklet
on PI-NO 73

Conkey's Stock Remedies

The whole subject of farm animals, their care in health and treatment
when suffering from disease, is gone into very fully in Conkey's Stock
Book, our practical handbook for livestock owners, 224 pages, very fully
illustrated, which can. be had through your dealers or for lOc in stamps to
cover cost of mailing.

Every Conkey Remedy is under the now world-known Conkey guar-
antee—IT MUST PLEASE YOU OR MONEY WILL BE RE-

There is no risk or uncertainty in Conkey treatments. We know
every Remedy thoroughly before allowing it to go under a Conkey label.
Every article put out can be depended on for the work we claim for it.
But you have nothing to risk. In case of any dissatisfaction whatever,
you have only to tell us and back will come your purchase money, no
matter whether you are 5,000 miles away from us.

CONKEY'S STOCK TONIC is a general conditioner, combining the
beneficial qualities of a great number of reliable medicines endorsed by
veterinarians and practical managers of livestock, and also useful because
if given in time, its tonic alterative effect will often completely ward off
serious disorders. Read carefully the following special statements re-
garding CONKEY'S STOCK TONIC.

Under modern conditions where all live stock
are pushed to the limit for healthy production,
there are bound to come occasional setbacks,
times when an animal is "off-feed," run down,
or seems to have some general unthrifty condi-
tion.

Horses, cattle, sheep and swine all are liable
to get into this general rundown, dispirited
condition. Sometimes the trouble is with
worms, which multiply in stomach and intes-
tine and sap the vitality of the animal itself;
sometimes it is due to digestive strain, when
the animal is under heavy production or work-
ing hard in a busy season. Sometimes it is
because the body functions are upset, and do
their work irregularly. Sometimes the trouble

is with blood running sluggishly, feebly, so that it does not quickly
enough repair the cellular waste. Animals sometimes cannot make use
of the feed necessary for full production, they fail to thrive and the
expensive feed is wasted

It is for just such conditions that we prescribe our STOCK TONIC,
which acts directly on various important organs, increasing the vital
contractility, and acting especially on the walls of the blood vessels,
toning them, bracing them so that they send the blood racing along, re-
pairing exhausted tissues, flushing out waste matter, dead cells, etc.,
which in the sluggish system generate dangerous poisons.

Thus STOCK TONIC cleans the blood. Clean blood works wonders
always. Nature works what we call "miracles" if you can give her just
clean blood to work with. STOCK TONIC cleans the blood and there-
fore acts on every vital organ. Get them all to act, these various vital
organs, and there is no longer any disease, for nature will keep the ani-
mal healthy, if a sound working system is provided for her to use.

But keep this in mind: your animal is probably under heavy pro-
duction, in the dairy, or fattening for beef, or pork or mutton, under heavy

74

strain of feeding, etc. Nature cannot keep up the unnatural strain unless
you help her with a tonic occasionally, just such a tonic as this condi-
tioner is.

A Rood plan is this: every so often, for safety sake, give a few doses
of CONKEY'S STOCK TONIC. It will aid digestion, help the animal to
assimilate its feed, increase the appetite, improve the ration and prevent
waste. Digestion is the first essential. No matter how good the ration,
how scientifically halanced, or how expensive the feed, IT'S WASTED
if the animal does not digest it fully and return you your profit.

CONKEY'S STOCK TONIC is all tonic, no filler. Used in small
doses. Prices — 1 pound, 25 cents; 2V\ pounds, 50 cents; 5 pounds, $1.00;
12-pound pail. $2.00; 25-pound pail, $3.50. Express extra.

THE NEW MEDICATED STOCK SALT— CONKEY'S "SALT-
EM". All animals need salt. But when salt is given only occasionally,
they are pretty sure to take more than is good for them if they get a
chance at it, and scours, etc., will result. We have studied this special
need of farm animals and have made up a new preparation for horses,
cattle, sheep and swine, which takes the place of salt, and combines
the best suited medical elements, so that the preparation as a whole
can be given as a daily Atonic, digestive, and worm remedy, as well as
a simple appetizer. To indicate its method of use, we have called this
new Conkey article SALT-EM.

Left before stock all the time it fills their entire need for salt, and
gives in addition a quick, easy way of treating common diseases. The
animals will not overdose when they can help themselves any time.
What they do is to take the medication just as they need it, guided by
instinct, so that it acts ^ as a sort of automatic guard of the general
health condition. For instance, an animal inclined to get "off feed"
will doctor itself with SALT-EM if given the opportunity. An animal
troubled with worms will of its own accord lick up SALT-EM if the
medication is where the animal can get at it.

SALT-EM left before animals all the time acts as a general reg-
ulator and preventive. It increases digestion, hence cuts down feed
waste. It restores tone and function to overtaxed organs. As a worm
medicine alone, SALT-EM would prove invaluable to any stock owner.
These facts indicate the general nature of the article, but write for
folder giving complete information.

SALT-EM is sold on our regular guarantee. Any stock owner can
try it out in his own feed shed, with the certainty that the test will cost
him nothing if in the end he is not more than satisfied. But SALT -EM
will satisfy ! Its results will astonish as well as please you. Prices — 100
pounds, $5; 40 pounds, $2.25; 20 pounds, $1.25; 10 pounds, 75 cents, f. o. b.
Cleveland.

CONKEY'S HORSE TONIC— A pure, powerful vegetable tonic,
harmless and very effective — "one bottle is as good as six weeks on
grass." After all debilitating diseases; after foaling; in all cases of con-
valescence; and where the general building up of the system is essen-
tial, CONKEY'S HORSE TONIC is a most excellent investment.' Price
$1.00. Express extra.

CONKEY'S HEALING POWDER— This is a most perfect healing
agent for use as a dry dressing for any part. It is especially valuable
as a GALL REMEDY, although, for those who prefer an ointment, we
put out a special GALL SALVE. Because of the astringent and anti-
septic properties we recommend CONKEY'S HEALING POWDER
for the treatment of Galls, Sore Backs and Necks, Broken Knees, Run-
ning Sores, and Open Wounds, as well as for Chafes, Cracked Heels and

75

where skin is unbroken. It is also an effective remedy for Thrush, Sore
and Tender Mouths and Canker in dog's ears. A wonderful preventive
and remedy for Hobble Chafes, and excellent for all sores on human
beings. Prices 25c and 50c, postpaid.

CONKEY'S GALL SALVE— Here is an excellent healing ointment.
It is made especially for Harness and Saddle Galls, Chafes, Sore
Shoulders, Necks and Backs and will be found invaluable during spring
work. This is an all-around good article and can be used for sores, cuts,
etc., on man or beast. Price 25c and 50c, postpaid.

CONKEY'S CpLIC REMEDY— This remedy is remarkable for its
quick results. It will relieve an ordinary case of Colic in a few minutes.
It is not a drench with all its trouble to give, but just a few drops on the
back of the tongue and it does the work. Can be administered while on
the road. It is the simplest, surest, and best Colic remedy made. Price
50c, or SSc, postpaid.

CONKEY'S HOOF REMEDY— The hoof is more than half the
horse. Keep the feet in good shape and the main foundation to useful-
ness and profit is assured.

CONKEY'S HOOF REMEDY has a lanolin (wool-fat) base,— to
which is added other valuable ingredients, — that keeps the hoof in per-
fect condition with the use of the ordinary well-fitting
shoe, and without expensive and useless pads under
the shoe that have become such a fad in late years.
It is a sure preventive for Split Hoof, Quarter Crack,
Seedy Toe, Contracted Heel, and hard, dry feet. In
nine cases out of ten it does away with the neces-
sity of the bar shoe or, in other words, it gives the
horse a natural foot with the least liability of being
affected by road conditions, weather conditions, and
other causes of the hoof undergoing unnatural con-
traction and expansion. It is the changing of the
hoof structure which causes nearly all the foot
troubles known, as well as endangering the animal
from faulty action.
A farmer finds his horse lame on Monday morning and says, "I
must have overworked him on Saturday." He is dead wrong! The fact
is that the horse's feet got soaked on Saturday and dried out like an old
boot over Sunday and the hard leafy layers press on the sensitive
laminae. That same thing causes nine-tenths of all the hoof ills. CON-
KEY'S HOOF REMEDY applied Saturday night, or every other day
as it should be, would have resulted in that horse going out of the stable
on Monday morning like a young colt. It would not only have kept the
foot normally moist, but would have supplied the moisture had the horse
not been out in the mud and wet of Saturday.

If you wish to use this as a hoof packing, mix it with bran to
the proper consistency and it will be found the best article for the pur-
pose.

Prices, 1 pint, 50c; 1 quart, 7Sc; 2 quarts, $1.25; 1 gallon, $2.00.
Express extra. Write for prices on larger quantities.

CONKEY'S EYE REMEDY— This is a new Conkey article, a sooth-
ing, cooling application, very grateful to the animal when the eyes are
sore or inflamed. Never neglect early symptoms for serious trouble,
maybe incurable blindness, may result. We guarantee satisfaction with
Conkey's Eye Remedy. Price, SOc, or SSc postpaid.

76

CONKEY'S HEAVE REMEDY— Heaves is a complicated dis-
order. The nerves, the digestive system and in advanced cases the
breathing organs are all three affected. Trouble usually starts with the
digestive system and other symptoms follow from reflex action. Many
cases are easily remedied with Conkey's Stock Tonic treatment, which
corrects the faults of digestion. Of course, in any treatment, feed and
water carefully, so as never to overcrowd the stomach. Never work the
horse immediately after feeding.

The real test of a Heave Remedy is a bad case of chronic heaves.
Conkey's Heave Remedy acts directly on the weakened digestive organs,
tones them up and strengthens the whole nervous system. If directions
are followed we guarantee this remedy to be effective, and in every case
sell on agreement your money back if you are not fully satisfied with
results. Price, $1.00, or $1.10 postpaid.

CONKEY'S WORM REMEDY— For horses, cattle, sheep or swine.
Almost any vermifuge will drive the harmless worms, but what's the use?
It is the larvae of the hurtful, ulcerating worms that sap the vigor of the
animal and that should be expelled. This remedy accomplishes the pur-
pose every time. It drives out the worms and leaves the animal free to
thrive and enjoy the benefit of his food. This remedy saves annoyance
and disappointment. Strictly speaking, no worm is harmless. They are
profit sappers every time. There's no use in feeding good feed to worms.
Get after them every time with CONKEY'S WORM REMEDY,— the
profit piler. Price 50c, or 60c postpaid.

CONKEY'S DISTEMPER, FEVER AND COUGH REMEDY—
Conkey's Distemper, Fever and Cough Remedy is for Coughs, Colds,
and for all diseases having fever or chills as a symptom. Influenza;
Strangles cr Distemper; Epizootic; Shipping Fever; and Pink Eye or
Cellulitis. Many serious diseases such as Pneumonia, Bronchitis, Foun-
der, and many other inflammatory diseases start simply with a cold. This
remedy should always be used in early stages so as to check the disease
before it becomes dangerous. Do not run risks but have it on hand for
emergency. Prices 50c and $1.00, postpaid.

CONKEY'S ABSORBENT — This is our special preparation for
Spavins, Ringbones, Sidebones, Splints, Curbs, and all exostosis or unnat-
ural bone formations, also for soft bunches, lumps, etc. It is excellent
for corns. It is intended principally as an absorbent as its name implies
and will not blister when directions are followed closely and application
made as directed for allaying fever and inflammation. The remedy will
be absorbed, WITHOUT BLISTERING to the extent of taking the hair
off, and will reach the seat of trouble and perform its work without the
unsightly surface wounds caused by violent blistering and firing. For
sprained tendons, sprained ligaments, and all abnormal bone formations,
it is the best and surest remedy ever put upon the market. Price $1.00.

CONKEY'S WARMING LINIMENT— This is a new Conkey arti-
cle. It is excellent for removing soreness, lameness, swelling or stiffness
in any part. It strengthens the muscles and is especially recom-
mended for sweeny, or in case of partial paralysis, rheumatism, strains,
sprains, etc. Very penetrating and stimulating and eases pain. It is a
warming application for any part, very useful in case of sore throat, or
lungs, or cold in chest, or for rubbing ears or legs to restore circulation.
Pxice 50c. Not mailable. Express paid, 70c.

W CONKEY'S PAIN LOTION— Heat, redness and swelling offer the
only evidence of injury that is beneath the skin except, perhaps, lameness.
Often the only treatment necessary is to reduce the inflammation and
stop the pain. CONKEY'S PAIN LOTION is a harmless, soothing

77

antiphlogistic that brings immediate relief. Why use a mud antiphlogistic
when this is easier of application, cheaper, maintains all the best remedial
effects and acts at once? It is soothing to even the tender mucous mem-
branes. It is very penetrating and will find its way to hidden joints and
tissues. For Sprains, Curbs, Swollen Knees, and hot and painful swell-
ings, there is nothing equal to it. It is also excellent for rheumatism
in man or beast, and will relieve a toothache or headache promptly. Gives
almost instant relief as a spray for nose and throat. It is excellent for a
thousand ailments on your animals or on yourself. Price, 50c. Express
paid, 70c.

CONKEY'S POLL EVIL REMEDY— For Poll Evil and all Fis-
tulas. It is a very humane and effective treatment where most other rem-
edies are barbarous in their application and result in spoiling the animal for
future usefulness. Fistulas are not such difficult things to cure and this
remedy overcomes them surely and quickly and brings the animal back to
absolute health without ruining him for future service. It is an easy meth-
od of overcoming malignant and stubborn fistulous sores on any part of
the animal. Price, $2.00, or $2.25 express prepaid.

CONKEY'S BAG OINTMENT— Dairymen will welcome this spe-
cial ointment for Sore, Chapped Teats, Cracks and Small Warts, Bunches,
etc. It is a penetrating, softening application which soothes quickly.
H is very successful in treating Garget, Caked Bag or other inflammation
in sensitive parts. Prices 25c and 50c, postpaid.

CONKEY'S FLY KNOCKER— Scientists have proved that many
infectious and dangerous diseases are communicated by flies and other
insects, which carry the germs and enable them to infect man, beast and
fowl. Not only do they spread the germs, but they are a menace and an

annoyance to the peace and

health of your stock. From the

time that the flies first put in an

appearance in the spring, until

late in the fall, they worry and

torment the stock, keeping them

irritated and causing them to

lose flesh, which is replaced only

after loss of time and much

extra feeding.

CONKEY'S FLY KNOCK-
ER settles the fly problem. We
know many worthless articles PROFIT

on the market which have done
much to disgust the public and injure legitimate trade. We do not offer
the cheapest article known, but the best. It will do just what we claim
for it. AND WE GUARANTEE IT TO SATISFY YOU. Should it
fail to do so, your money will be refunded.

All the time your stock are worried by flies you are losing your
profits. Animals can't fight flies and make money for you. You can easily
prove this for yourself, simply spray your stock and see the difference in
the work they do for you.

CONKEY'S FLY KNOCKER is easy to use, as it is sprayed directly
on the animals, or can be applied with a cloth if preferred. It both

78

kills the flies and drives others away. It will rid your
stable of flies and will give the tails a rest. It is
positively harmless, and if properly us*d it will not
taint the milk. Sprayed on stock in summer it will
prevent lice and grub in winter. Sprayed on your
horse before going for a drive it *»'H keep the flies
away and prevent the fretting so wearing to a nerv-
ous animal. One ounce of liquid will spray two ani-
mals. Farmers, dairymen, stablemen and horse-
shoers find it too valuable ever to be without it if
they once try it. Saves milk, saves flesh, saves spirit,
saves time in handling stock. Stablemen find it saves
shoes and floors also. The following letter (one of
hundreds) comes from East Springfield, Pa.:

"The Fly Knocker we ordered of you came duly to hand and we find
that it does all you claim for it. When we began the trial, our cows were
covered with flies and their tails were lashing at a furious rate. When we
finished spraying the last cow, all tails were as quiet as in mid-winter, hav-
ing nothing to do. We find upon use, that the knocker not only keeps the
flies off the stock, but it drives them from the stable. We would not be
without it for five times the cost. M. A. Harring-
ton & Son."

The above is what everybody thinks after one
thorough trial. It solves the problem and CONKEY'S
FLY KNOCKER stands in a class by itself as a pro-
tection against the worst pest of the stable and dairy
barn.

The camper could enjoy his outing were it not
for the mosquitoes which make camp life miserable.
CONKEY'S FLY KNOCKER will also settle the
mosquito's bill. It is perfectly harmless, has a pungent
odor, and it keeps every insect out of buzzing distance.
Prices, 1 quart, 35c; 2 quarts, 60c; 1 gallon, $1.00;
5 gallons (jacketed), $4.00. Expressage extra. For
price on sprayers, see page 80.

CONKEY'S DISINFECTANT— This is put out as a special propo-
sition to the Sheep Owner and the Farmer and we guarantee it to be a
dependable and reliable article. IT IS THE BEST SHEEP DIP
KNOWN for the cure of scab and the extermination of Sheep Ticks. It
is an excellent remedy for all skin diseases on man or beast; it will
exterminate all manner of insects, slugs, ants, and bugs ; and is a splendid
healer for sores and wounds. It will kill all disease germs and prevent
disease about the home, stables or outhouses. IT IS SAFE, as it will.
not explode or even burn; it is not poisonous when mixed for use, and
is not corrosive. It will not curl, burn, or stain the wool when used as a
dip, and is not nauseating to sheep or lambs if they swallow some of it
while being dipped. Lambs can nurse ewes directly after dipping without
harm. It is also very cheap, as 1 gallon mixes with 100 gallons of water
to make the ready-to-use emulsion, making 101 gallons for all disinfect-
ing purposes and for the price of 1 gallon of Disinfectant. There is none
better for general all-around use. Prices, 2 quarts, 60c; 1 gallon, $1.00.
Expressage extra. Write for particulars on larger quantities.

79

CONKEY'S PI-NO— A disiniectant for home use, properly called "a
breath from the fragrant pines." A delightful article that contains all
the qualities of the best disinfectants. Antiseptic, Parasiticide, Insecticide,
and Germicide. Fine in the bath and laundry. Refreshing for sick-room
use. Makes an excellent gargle for Coughs, Colds and Sore Throat.
PRICES— 7 oz., 25c; 1 pint, 50c; 1 quart, 75c; y* gallon, $1.00; 1 gal, $1.50;
5 gals., $6.50. Expressage extra.

Sprayers

CONKEY'S PERFECT SPRAYER

A good, dependable
sprayer will be found a
necessity for using-
CONKEY'S NOX-I-
CIDE, LICE LIQUID,
FLY KNOCKER, or
any liquid disinfectant
or insecticide. CONKEY'S PERFECT SPRAYER, while costing but very
little, will be found very serviceable; will spray directly up, or in any direc-
tion, and we offer it as the best spray pump manufactured that can be sold
for the same price. Price, 50c. each or 75c. postpaid.

GUARANTEE

If at any time, under any circumstances,
you buy a Gonkey Remedy and are not
satisfied with the treatment, you are
entitled to have your money back, without
question or quibble, on your plain state-
ment that results did not satisfy YOU.
Ask your dealer or write direct to The G. E.
Gonkey Company, Cleveland, Ohio, U.S. A.

Now Ready — Conkey's Stock Book

224 pages, fully illustrated. The best book yet on

livestock. See announcement next page

how to get this big $1.00 book

FREE

RETURN TO the circulation desk of any

University of California Library

or to the

NORTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY
Bldg. 400, Richmond Field Station
University of California
Richmond, CA 94804-4698

ALL BOOKS MAY BE RECALLED AFTER 7 DAYS
2-month loans may be renewed by calling

(510)642-6753
1-year loans may be recharged by bringing books

to NRLF
Renewals and recharges may be made 4 days

prior to due date

DUE AS STAMPED BELOW

JAN 19 1995

20,000 (4/94)

YB 09837

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY