Division of Agricultural Sciences
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA

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CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL
Experiment Station
Extension Service

CIRCULAR 498

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In order that the information in our publications may be more intelligible it is some-
times necessary to use trade names of products or equipment rather than complicated
descriptive or chemical identifications. In so doing it is unavoidable in some cases
that similar products which are on the market under other trade names may not be
cited. No endorsement of named products is intended, nor is criticism implied of
similar products which are not mentioned.

Control of

HOUSEHOLD INSECTS

and Related Pests

By A. E. Michelbacher, Deane P. Furman, C. S. Davis
J. E. Swift and I. B. Tarshis

HOW TO USE THIS CIRCULAR

If you have identified your household pest, look up "What-to-
do" section for control measures against the pest (listed alpha-
betically in this circular).

If you do not know the pest you are dealing with, description
and life cycle of the suspected pest may help you identify it. If
you cannot identify it, send description or better, a preserved
specimen of the pest to the Department of Entomology and Para-
sitology, University of California, Berkeley or Davis, or to the
Department of Entomology, University of California, Riverside
or Los Angeles, for identification.

If you buy an insecticide, study the list of ingredients on the
label, and check page 6 for precautions as to possible side effects
of the ingredients. Before using any insecticides, carefully read
instructions on the label. Solutions containing insecticides are
sometimes inflammable and should not be applied near open
flames of any kind.

APRIL, 1961

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
DIVISION OF AGRICULTURAL SCIENCES

California Agricultural Experiment Station — Extension Service

This circular recommends control measures that can be taken by householders
against insects and related pests commonly found in California homes. Wood-boring
insects such as termites and the several species of beetles infesting wood are con-
sidered structural pests and are not discussed here.

IJMorjt^lo and related pests found in the home
can be divided into two groups for control purposes:

CHEWING PESTS

These include cockroaches, crickets, carpet beetles, pantry insects, ants, wasps, and
the larvae of clothes moths. They destroy articles by eating holes in them, or by
chewing and consuming the materials they infest. Therefore, stomach or contact
poisons as well as fumigants are used to kill them. Many insecticides — especially the
newer ones such as DDT, DDD, methoxychlor, chlordane, dieldrin, lindane and
malathion — act both as stomach and contact poisons, and some may also exert some
iumigant action.

SUCKING PESTS

These include mosquitoes, bedbugs, cone-nosed bugs, fleas, body lice, ticks and cer-
tain mites. They feed by inserting their mouthparts through the skin of man or
animals and sucking the blood. They are controlled by contact insecticides or fumi-
gants. Some insects such as houseflies have lapping-sucking mouthparts that do not
pierce skin, but may contaminate food. This group is controlled largely by contact
insecticides, although stomach poisons
may be used.

Insects and their relatives — the spiders,
mites, ticks, centipedes, scorpions, milli-
pedes and sowbugs — do not always re-
main in one part of the house, but most
of those discussed in this circular are
grouped below according to where they
will most likely be encountered. Spiders
and pests that enter homes by chance
(including predaceous and darkling
ground beetles, corizid grass bugs, elm
leafbeetle, box elder bugs, centipedes,
millipedes, sowbugs, and crickets) may
be found throughout the house.

DRAWINGS AND SIZES

The drawings of the insects shown
in the text are for the most part
greatly enlarged. The actual size of
the insect is often indicated by a
line thus:

i 1

This line shows the length, or body
length exclusive of antennae of the
insect illustrated.

THE AUTHORS

A. E. Michelbacher is Professor of Entomology and Entomologist in the Experi-
ment Station, Berkeley.*

Deane P. Furman is Professor of Parasitology and Entomologist in the Experiment
Station, Berkeley.

C. S. Davis is Extension Entomologist in the Agriculture Extension Service, Berkele\ .

J. E. Swift is Extension Entomologist in the Agriculture Extension Service, Berkeley.

I. B. Tarshis is Assistant Professor of Entomology and Assistant Entomologist in the
I.\|mi uncut Station. I ,os \ngeles.

Ketired December 31, I960.

IN OR ABOUT STORED FOOD PRODUCTS Page

Cereal Mites 14

Flour Moths 24

Meal Moths 24

Pantry Beetles 27

Psocids 32

in fabrics and paper

Carpet Beetles 10

Clothes Moths 14

Crickets 19

Psocids 32

Silverfish 33

on and near food

Ants 7

Cockroaches 16

Flies 21

ATTACKING HUMANS AND PETS Page

Bedbugs 8

Bird Mites and Ticks .... 37

Brown Dog Ticks 9

Cone-Nosed Bugs 36

Fleas 19

Lice 23

Mosquitoes 26

Tropical Rat Mites 37

in damp or secluded locations

Camel Crickets 10

Centipedes 13

Millipedes 25

Mites 37

Psocids 32

Scorpions 32

Sowbugs 34

Spiders 35

Springtails 34

lJ^loli<CllC«lJJJbiO used in control of household
pests are of three types :

1. Stomach poisons

2. Fumigants

3. Contact poisons

As noted, many of the newer insecticides act both as stomach and contact poisons;
some also exert a fumigant action.

Stomach poisons. — Sodium fluoride,
sodium fluosilicate, and sodium arsenite
are strictly stomach poisons. They should
be used with extreme caution. Sodium
fluoride and sodium fluosilicate are used
in poison baits and as dusts, sometimes
in combination with other materials for
the control of such insects as cock-
roaches, crickets, and ants. Sodium fluo-
silicate is also used in the preparation of
mothproofing solutions. Sodium arse-
nite, a very toxic material, is used at low
concentrations as the active killing agent
in certain commercial ant syrups. The
arsenicals, as well as other insecticides,
should always be placed where they are
inaccessible to irresponsible persons,
children or pets.

Rotenone, relatively non-poisonous to
humans, is primarily a contact insecti-
cide. It has some action as a stomach
poison and is effective against a number
of household pests. Available in dust and
liquid preparations, it is frequently com-
bined with other insecticides.

Fumigants. Paradichlorobenzene and
naphthalene are both safe and effective
for home use. Carbon tetrachloride, or a
mixture of 3 parts by volume of ethylene
dichloride to 1 part of carbon tetrachlo-
ride also is effective and suitable for
household use if adequate precautions
are taken to avoid inhalation of vapors.

Paradichlorobenzene (PDB) is a clear
crystalline material. It is used as a fumi-
gant for materials other than food, be-

[3]

A plastic catsup dispenser is useful in applying insecticidal dusts under kitchen
appliances and cabinets.

cause its odor is readily absorbed. Mate-
rials to be fumigated are placed in tight
containers (such as trunks, or large cans
with lids), and the fumigant crystals are
scattered throughout the materials or
placed between layers of paper; mate-
rials should be subjected to the fumigant
vapor for several days at a temperature
of not less than 70° F. Longer exposure
will do no harm.

Naphthalene is used in the same man-
ner as paradichlorobenzene. It evapo-
rates more slowly than PDB and there-
fore infested materials require longer
exposure to insure good control of insect
pests.

The ethylene dichloride-carbon tetra-
chloride mixture is a liquid which smells
like chloroform. It can be used to fumi-
gate foods and household articles, but
it imparts a taste to foods having a high
fat or protein content; thoroughly air
such products after fumigation. Use tight
containers and expose products at least
24 hours at 70° F. Avoid breathing the
toxic vapors. Carbon tetrachloride is a
clear liquid fumigant used in the same
manner as when mixed with ethylene di-
chloride. Where there is hazard of im-
parting an off-flavor to a product, dry
ice (solid carbon dioxide) can be used.
(For details see directions as given under
pantry beetles on page 27.)

Fumigants, which are too hazardous

for the householder to use, include methyl
bromide, hydrocyanic acid, and chloro-
picrin. // the use of these dangerous
fumigants proves necessary, the work
should be done by a licensed pest control
operator.

Contact insecticides include nicotine
pyrethrum, rotenone, organic thiocya
nates, mineral oils, DDT, DDD, methoxy
chlor, dieldrin, lindane, chlordane, an<
malathion. They are available in con
mercial preparations as concentrated
liquid emulsions, solutions, wettable
powders for sprays, space aerosols, aero-
sols designed to wet the treated surface,
and dusts. Solutions, aerosols, and dusts
are usually the most satisfactory for
home use.

Preparations containing pyrethrum.
rotenone, or organic thiocyanates will
kill only those insects actually contacted
by the insecticide. None of these mate-
rials has an appreciable residual action
or leaves a poisonous residue; they are
among the safest insecticides for home
use. However, they are frequently used
in combination with more poisonous
materials.

If the active ingredient is in sufficient
amounts, insecticides containing DDT.
DDD, methoxychlor, chlordane, dieldrin.
malathion, or lindane have varying de-
grees of residual action depending very
largely upon the amount applied and

[4]

Use of a plastic puff-duster in a cupboard.

the kind of insect against which it is
directed.

Combination insecticides contain more
than one toxic material in order to im-
prove their effectiveness and to help con-
trol most of the pests found in a home.
.Also available are aerosols containing
several insecticides which increase the
range of pests that they are effective
against. Liquid concentrates may also
contain more than one insecticide.

Sorptive dusts kill by removing the
wax or oil from an insect's outer water-
proof layer; this causes the insect to lose

such large quantities of water that it dies.
Not all sorptive dusts are equally effec-
tive. One of the best is a finely divided,
amorphous silica aerogel available com-
mercially under the trade name Dri-Die
67®. In this circular, recommendations
for use of sorptive dusts refer only to
formulations meeting the specifications
of Dri-Die 67®. This silica preparation
is impregnated with a small percentage
of ammonium fluosilicate which enables
it to adhere to most surfaces, and greatly
increases its effectiveness. Unless used
in relatively large quantities, however,
even fluoride-impregnated sorptive dusts
may not provide rapid control of insect
pests.

Insecticides, dusters, and sprayers can
be purchased at hardware stores, feed
and fuel stores, seed stores, nurseries,
local distributing plants of insecticide
companies, and from other sources. Keep
sprayers and dusters clean.

Be sure to read the label on the pack-
age before purchasing an insecticide; it
is a guarantee of the contents. Read in-
structions very carefully.

Store insecticides in airtight contain-
ers out of the reach of children and under
lock and key.

Rubber bulb or plastic puff-dusters are useful in applying insecticidal dusts to household pets.

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[5]

Read these

PRECAUTIONS before applying insecticides

Although there is little danger of seri-
ous residue from preparations using py-
rethrum, or rotenone, care should be
taken to avoid contaminating foods with
any insecticides when applied as sprays
or dusts. Many household solutions con-
taining insecticides are inflammable and
should not be applied near open flames.

When solutions used for residual sprays
contain DDT, DDD, methoxychlor, chlor-
dane, dieldrin, malathion, lindane or
combination of these materials, the fol-
lowing precautions should be followed:

1. Do not fill the air with spray mist.
Apply the solution directly to the
surface to be treated. This can best
be accomplished by using a coarse
spray applied under low pressure or
by applying with a brush.

2. Do not wet surfaces to the point
where the solution runs off.

3. Do not use on food, around food
preparation areas, or on dishes or
cooking utensils.

4. Do not empty sprayers containing
unused solution where there is dan-
ger of waste flowing into children's
play areas, fish pools, or similar
places.

5. Do not use solutions or oil-based
sprays on animals.

6. Be careful when using solutions on
highly polished surfaces; some sol-
vents will mar the finish. Highly
refined kerosene, one of the most
common solvents, may remove pol-
ish slightly if allowed to drip on
such surfaces.

7. Do not breathe vapors or permit
solutions to remain on skin; protect
body and bare skin as well as pos-

sible. Do not eat or smoke while
applying insecticides. Wash hands
and face thoroughly with warm
water and soap following each ap-
plication, as insecticides in oil solu-
tion are readily absorbed through
the skin. Change clothing if it be-
comes soaked with spray; bathe,
and do not wear the garments again
until they have been laundered.

8. Before treating wallpaper and cer-
tain fabrics, make certain the solu-
tion will not stain or discolor the
material.

9. DDT and similar solutions will fog
windows, and will leave a residue if
sprayed on dark surfaces. Sprays
containing chlordane leave no vis-
ible residue on dark surfaces.

10. Do not apply household solutions to
plants of any kind.

When these insecticides are used as
dusts, wettable powders for sprays, or
emulsions, follow all the precautions
listed above except 5 and 6. In these
formulations DDT and related com-
pounds are less injurious to man since
they are not as easily absorbed through
the skin. However, in working with dusts
it is advisable that a respirator or some
other protective covering be used to
cover the nose and mouth. Little hazard
will result from use of the suggested in-
secticides if used as recommended in
this circular.

Aerosols can be used in the home, but
only such insects as flies and mosquitoes
are easily controlled by them. Insects in
protected locations are not killed unless
the area is wet by a low-pressure spray
bomb. Aerosol bombs designed to wet
the surface treated rather than to mist
into the air are also available.

[6

Characteristics and control of the

HOUSEHOLD PESTS in California

ANTS

Size, adult:

H

Argentine Ant, Iridomyrmex humilis Mayr

Ant colonies are found nearly every-
where. Some species build their nests in
open ground, others under stones or
wood, in wood, decaying trees, or in
other locations that afford protection.
Ants are generally wingless except at
mating time. Soon after mating the males
die, and the females (queens) lose their
wings and attempt to establish new
colonies.

Ants may injure lawns, gardens, and
orchards by their nesting habits. Some
feed on crops, fruit, seeds, and nuts.
Others feed on honeydew and protect the
aphids, scales or other insects that excrete
it. Some species of ants will be attracted
into homes by the presence of sweets or
fatty substances.

The most annoying household ant in
California is the Argentine ant, Irido-
myrmex humilis Mayr, which has spread
over most of the state. Long columns of
this pest will invade a kitchen overnight
seeking sweets.

Carpenter ants, Camponotus species, the
largest found in California, measure up
to % mcn or more in length. They may
damage homes by excavating nests in
timber, though they do not feed on the
wood itself.

Other common household varieties in-
clude the odorous house ant, California
velvety tree ant, pyramid ant, California

fire ant, western thief ant, Pharaoh's ant,
tiny black ant, and the pavement ant.

WHAT TO DO:

A number of poisoned ant syrups give
excellent control of the Argentine and
other sweets-loving ants if properly used.

Chlordane, dieldrin, or combination
of these materials with malathion, are
very effective, while DDT solutions
are less effective. Chlordane solutions
should be at least 21/2 per cent; dieldrin
should be a 0.5 per cent solution.

In the house, apply solutions with
sprayer or narrow brush. If you use a
brush, apply solution on paths followed
by ants. If paths are changed, repeat the
operation until the ants disappear.

When spraying, direct spray to wet
the paths.

Do Not spray near open flames (see
page 6 for other precautions).

Aerosol bombs designed for wetting a
surface and containing lindane, chlor-
dane, or dieldrin, or combination of
these insecticides are also effective if
used as suggested above.

In experimental and field demonstra-
tional work sorptive dust (page 5) has
been found effective in controlling ants
within the home. The dust may be ap-
plied at the rate of 1 pound per 1,000
square feet of floor space, or preferably
restrict treatment to the less conspicuous
areas infested, such as in and behind
cabinets, drawers, on shelves, along base-
boards and ceiling moldings.

For out-of-doors control, apply solu-
tion or dust to nests around foundations
or other infested areas. A coarse spray
made of 9 ounces of 40 per cent wettable
chlordane powder in 1 gallon of water
will result in excellent control.

Carpenter ants in timbers can be con-
trolled by injecting dusts containing
chlordane or dieldrin into the burrows.

[7]

BEDBUGS

Shown: dorsal view of adult

M and eggs attached in

Size, adtdt fabric

Bedbug, Cimex lectularius Linn.

The common adult bedbug, Cimex lectu-
larius Linn., is a wingless, flattened in-
sect, about :}i(5 inch long and Vs inch
wide. The slender, pointed mouthparts
are adapted for piercing skin and suck-
ing blood. The dusty red color of the
unfed bug changes with feeding to bright
red; the body becomes much thickened.

Infestations of bedbugs are usually
accompanied by a disagreeable "buggy"
odor. Often, however, the first indication
will be the discovery of itching bites in
the morning and dark brown stains on
bed sheets.

Small oval eggs are laid by adults in
their usual hiding places (see below),
where they hatch in about a week in
warm weather. Young bugs look like the
larger adults and have similar feeding
habits. They are blood-sucking pests
from the moment they are hatched. Bed-
bugs may survive starvation for several
months.

WHAT TO DO:

Lightly spray a 5 per cent DDT solu-
tion in kerosene over the frame and
springs of the bed and over both sides
and edges of the mattress. Use a coarse
droplet spray directly on the objects
treated; DO NOT fill the air with a mist.
An application of 3 to 4 fluid ounces of
spray to a double bed should be suffi-
cient. This solution is inflammable; see
page 6 for precautions.

For quicker results, spray hiding

places, such as cracks in floors and walls,
behind baseboards and pictures, and
overstuffed furniture.

Five per cent emulsions or water sus-
pensions of DDT are effective, but leave
an unsightly residue.

A synergized pyrethrum spray solu-
tion is also effective; it should contain
at least 0.2 per cent of pyrethrins in re-
fined kerosene, plus 1 per cent of a syner-
gist such as piperonyl butoxide, sulfox-
ide, or n propyl isome. This treatment
should be repeated in six weeks.

Insecticidal dust containing 5 per cent
DDT may be applied by hand duster.
Recent investigations indicate that cer-
tain sorptive dusts (page 5) also con-
trol bedbugs effectively. Apply a thin
film of dust to their hiding places. Dusts
are unsightly but a vacuum cleaner will
quickly remove excess from conspicuous
places. Liquid or dry commercial insecti-
cides can also be used.

Serious infestations may require fumi-
gation with hydrocyanic acid gas which
should be done by a licensed pest control
operator. This method, which is rarely
needed, requires special precautions for
human safety.

BOX ELDER,
CORIZID GRASS
BUGS, AND ELM
LEAF BEETLES

Box Elder Bug, Leptocohs trivittatus (Say)

Box elder bugs, corizid grass bugs, and
elm leaf beetles live outdoors but some-
times enter buildings.

Box elder bugs, Leptocoris trivittatus

[8

(Say), may invade homes in fall, winter
or, occasionally, early summer. They are
small, dark bugs, about % inch long with
red longitudinal lines on the back; they
do no damage, but are a nuisance.

Corizid grass bugs are about % inch
long, and usually gray or brown. Indi-
vidual insects, and occasionally swarms,
may enter homes. Normally they do not
attack man, but at night they may drop
from lights onto a person and probe his
skin in search of moisture. No serious
effects will be suffered from such attacks.

Elm leaf beetles, Galerucella xantho-
meloena (Schrank), often invade homes
in the fall. They are about ^ inch long,
yellowish or dull green with an indistinct
black stripe down the outer side of the
wing cover; they cause no damage but
can be a nuisance.

WHAT TO DO:

Apply a household contact spray di-
rectly on the insects. Where box elder
bugs are concentrated in large numbers
on the trunks of trees, or the shady side
of a house or fence apply a spray that
contains % per cent dieldrin. This can be
made by adding one pint of dieldrin
emulsible concentrate to five gallons of
water. In order to prevent the insects
from entering the house, it is important
to wet the foundation right down to the
ground, and to spray around outside
doors and window sills. A chlordane
spray, or malathion in combination with
either chlordane or dieldrin, is also effec-
tive. For further help on preventing
entry see suggestions under predaceous
and darkling ground beetles, page 31.

In homes, elm leaf beetles can be con-
trolled by applying DDT sprays or dusts
on the insects and hibernating places.

BROWN DOG
TICKS

The brown dog tick, Rhipicephalus san-
guineus (Latr.), about % to almost %
inch long, is often found on dogs in Cali-

Sizc:

Uncngorgcd female

hH

Engorged female

I 1

Brown Dog Tick, Rhipicephalus sanguineus

(Latr.)

fornia. It concentrates about buildings
where dogs are kept rather than in woods
or open country. The "head" of the adult
tick is six-sided when viewed from above,
while that of wood ticks found on dogs
is more or less rectangular. If in doubt
as to whether wood ticks or brown dog
ticks are involved, consult the entomol-
ogy department of the University of Cal-
ifornia, state or local health agencies, or
your local farm advisor.

The color of the adult tick is reddish
brown, changing to a bluish shade in
fully-fed females. A female may lay from
1,000 to 3,000 eggs in cracks in the roofs
of kennels or in ceilings of buildings,
where adult ticks migrate after feeding.
Growing ticks feed on dogs but hide in
cracks between feeding periods.

WHAT TO DO:

Thoroughly wash the dog with a dip
made by mixing 2.5 ounces of 25 per
cent lindane wettable powder in 10 gal-
lons of water. Wait for at least one week
before repeating. Alternatively, a rote-
none wash may be made by mixing 2
ounces of 3 to 5 per cent rotenone pow-
der and 1 ounce of neutral soap in 1
gallon of water. Thoroughly wet the ani-
mal with the rotenone wash at 3-day
intervals until the pests are eliminated.
Do not get the insecticides in the animal's
eyes. Avoid breathing the rotenone pow-
der while mixing the wash.

A 5% Sevin® dust is effective in con-
trolling brown dog ticks when dusted
thoroughly on the dog and around its

[9

sleeping quarters. A 1 per cent lindane
emulsion spray or a sorptive dust (page
5) may also be used to treat infested
kennels or in the home to control this
pest. For use inside the home the lindane
preparation should be applied only as a
spot spray; here it is valuable in control-
ling localized concentrations of ticks. A
5 per cent DDT solution is less reliable
for control of the ticks. Sorptive dust also
is safe and effective for general home
use; disadvantages are that it is unsightly
in exposed places and, unless left in place
at least 24 hours, the control value of the
dust is lost.

Control of the brown dog tick with
DDT, chlordane, dieldrin and malathion
may not be effective in some areas be-
cause this tick has developed a resistance
to these pesticides. Other effective mate-
rials are Diazinon® and dimethyl 1, 2-
dibromo-2, 2-dichloroethyl phosphate
(Dibrom®), but their use is not recom-
mended at present for householders.

Sprays may be applied with an ordi-
nary hand or mechanical sprayer. For
applying dusts, use a small hand duster
or bellows.

Meticulous application of pesticides is
necessary to eradicate the brown dog tick.
Pay special attention to the room where
the dog sleeps. Since the ticks tend to
migrate upward, make certain that the
spray, or dust, reaches the ceiling area.
Spots requiring special attention include
ceiling moldings, cracks, baseboards, and
door and window frames. Do not neglect
treating the undersides of furniture, floor
coverings, and behind pictures and drap-
eries. Bedding of infested dogs should be
treated thoroughly, laundered in very hot
water, or destroyed. If the dog sleeps in
the bedroom, be sure to treat the bed
frame and mattress with sorptive dust
(see page 5) or a 5 per cent DDT spray.

Where staining of wood is not ob-
jectionable, undiluted creosote oil may
be applied effectively, particularly in
warmer regions where the tick may over-
winter out of doors.

CALIFORNIA
CAMEL CRICKET

California Camel Cricket,
Ceuthophilus maculatus (Harris)

The California camel cricket is uniformly
pale brown with darker chestnut-brown
bands across the back. When mature they
measure about % inch. The female has
a short, saber-like ovipositor at the tip of
the body for laying eggs. The insects
have very long antennae, and a hind pair
of legs well adapted for jumping. Viewed
from the side they appear humped, thus
the name camel cricket. They are soil-
inhabiting insects, and may be found
under stones, boards, logs or debris;
when found in homes they are usually
limited to the ground floor or basement
where it is moist. They are harmless and
do no damage.

WHAT TO DO:

Dryness and heat create unfavorable
conditions for these crickets. Treating
the locations where they occur with a
residual type of spray will help keep them
under control. The best spray to use is
one that contains dieldrin; sprays with
DDT, lindane, chlordane, malathion, or
combinations of these materials, are also
effective.

CARPET BEETLES

Carpet beetles damage fabrics by eating
holes in them and may completely de-
stroy some articles.

Carpet beetles, unlike clothes moths
(see p. 14), spin no webbing. Infesta-
tions are indicated by the presence of the
cast-off, hairy skins of their larvae.

[10

\! \,

ma

Size:

Larva

Varied Carpet

H Adult
Beetle, Anthrenus verbasci
(Linn.)

Size:

I I Larva

body length

Black Carpet Beetl

Adult
e, Attagenus piceus (Oliv.)

All damage is done by the larvae. Lar-
vae of the varied carpet beetle, Anthrenus
verbasci Linn., and the bird-nest carpet
beetle, Anthrenus lepidus Lee, are short,
robust, and stubby, and have the hairs
arranged in a neat pattern. Larvae of the
black carpet beetle, Attagenus piceus
Oliv., are elongate, reddish brown above,
pale beneath, and have a tuft of very long
hairs at the tail end.

Adult carpet beetles are small, oval,
somewhat flattened insects with short
legs. The varied and bird-nest carpet
beetle adults are about % inch long and
are mottled black, brownish, and white.
The black carpet beetle adult is about
yi6 inch long and is all black.

The adults fly readily and are at-
tracted to daylight so may collect at win-
dows. During their active period in the
spring, they gather in large numbers on
flowers where they feed on pollen and

nectar. Adult beetles in the home during
the spring do not necessarily indicate an
infestation, but should alert the home-
owner that larvae may be present.

The larvae prefer dark, undisturbed
locations and, depending upon the spe-
cies, such food as unprocessed hair,
feathers, wool, fur, dried animal prod-
ucts, pollen, and certain cereal products.
Because of this, bird, rodent, and insect
nests, and animals' bedding places fur-
nish excellent natural breeding areas.

These natural breeding places are im-
portant sources of infestations.

Most household furnishings and cloth-
ing subject to attack are less suitable as
a food for carpet beetles than are the raw
products from which they are made.
Some processed goods are such poor
food sources that the larvae develop on
them with great difficulty, if at all.

Although carpet beetles ordinarily
damage material made from animal prod-
ucts, under certain conditions they also
attack nylon and daeron fabrics.

WHAT TO DO:

Prevent infestation by destroying or
removing abandoned nests of birds, ro-
dents, and insects (particularly bees and
wasps) situated in or close to the house.
The more protected from the elements
these nests are, the more likely they are
to be infested with larvae. Keep the bed-
ding places of pets clean.

Clear away lint in attics, furnace vents,
cracks in the floor, and behind base-
boards. Fill cracks in floors and loose-
fitting baseboards with plastic material
or similar fillers.

Destroy untreated skins, neglected in-
sect collections, discarded woolen rags
and clothing.

Vacuum carpets frequently; clean the
undersides when possible. Wall-to-wall or
tacked down carpeting provide favorable
breeding places for larvae.

Occasionally clean and move furni-
ture, rugs, drapes, and other articles sub-

[ii]

ject to attack. This disturbs locations
suitable for carpet beetle development
and reduces the possibility of infestation.

Thoroughly brush clothing and other
susceptible articles and hang them in the
sun on warm bright days.

Whenever possible in furnishing your
home, use materials such as cotton.

Watch cereal products for infestation.

MEASURES THAT DESTROY
AS WELL AS HELP PREVENT
INFESTATION:

1. Contact sprays. If you find carpet
beetles in the house, destroy them imme-
diately. Long lasting protection can be
obtained by using a spray containing 5
per cent DDT in highly refined or deodo-
rized kerosene. Dieldrin, chlordane, lin-
dane, or sprays containing malathion in
combination with these insecticides also
afford residual protection. Sprays con-
taining pyrethrum as the killing agent
destroy only insects contacted at the time
of treatment.

Contact sprays are best applied with
small power sprayers, although mechan-
ical hand sprayers can be used effectively.
Be sure to wet hidden breeding places
such as loose baseboards and cracks in
the floor. Excellent control in such loca-
tions can be obtained by applying con-
tact sprays with a paint brush. Also,
spray DDT lightly on upholstered furni-
ture and other articles subject to attack,
on both sides if possible.

2. Protective treatments (pest proofing).
Clothing and other materials which are
not injured by dry cleaning can be pro-
tected from attacks for as long as two
years (or until it is dry-cleaned) by wet-
ting with a 5 per cent DDT spray. Apply
the spray lightly and uniformly until the
surface is moist. Hang treated materials
outdoors until dry.

Excellent protection is obtained where
DDT content of the treated goods equals
■/4 to % per cent of the dry weight of
the garments. Deposits greater than %
per cent are likely to be visible on dark

clothing. Toxaphene gives good protec-
tion, but is also removed by dry cleaning.

Surface-wetting aerosol bombs which
contain DDT, chlordane, dieldrin, lin-
dane, malathion, pyrethrins or combina-
tions of these materials, are effective; the
benefit derived will depend upon thor-
oughness of application.

When using commercial products con-
taining fluoride for pest proofing, follow
directions given on the container.

Articles which can be thoroughly
wetted without being injured can be pro-
tected by impregnating with a saturated
solution of sodium fluosilicate. Spraying
the material will also provide a consid-
erable degree of control. To prepare the
solution, place 1 ounce of sodium fluo-
silicate in 1 gallon of water, shake the
mixture several times, and pour off the
clear liquid. To this add 1 or 2 table-
spoons of a wetting agent and apply as
a spray, thoroughly wetting the article.
Label solution with a poison sticker and
keep out of children's reach.

3. Dry cleaning. Dry cleaning kills in-
sects present in articles but does not pre-
vent reinfestation.

4. Fumigation. Flake naphthalene or
paradichlorobenzene crystals (PDB) can
safely be used to fumigate a trunk, closet,
or any tight chamber. If the container is
not tight, line it with heavy paper and
seal with tape. Use 1 pound of fumigant
to each 20 cubic feet of chamber space;
% pound will treat a good-sized trunk.

Scatter fumigant between the layers of
articles to be treated, or between layers
of paper separating the articles. Both
fumigants are most effective at tempera-
tures of 70° F or higher. Under favorable
conditions, 7 days exposure will kill the
insects. If the container is reasonably
tight, one application a year should in-
sure perfect protection.

In a closet, made fairly tight, apply
fumigant to the floor and shelving at the
rate of 1 pound to each 20 cubic feet of
space. Keep replenishing the supply as it

[12

evaporates. Leave articles in the closet as
long as possible, but air them before
wearing.

Pests in a closet can also be killed by
vaporizing PDB crystals with a vacuum
cleaner. A special attachment is available
for this purpose.

If piano felts become infested, place 1
to 1% pounds of paradichlorobenzene
in a porous bag inside the piano. Close
all openings and cover piano with a tar-
paulin for about a week. If possible, the
family should be away from the house
during this period. After fumigation
open and air the piano.

A satisfactory nonflammable liquid
fumigant, a mixture of 3 parts by volume
of ethylene dichloride and 1 part by vol-
ume of carbon tetrachloride, is available
under its chemical name or trade names.
Carbon tetrachloride can be used alone
if the mixture is not obtainable.

The liquid fumigant kills faster than
naphthalene or paradichlorobenzene; at
70° F or higher, the insects are killed
in 24 hours. Keep fumigation chamber
tight and place fumigant in a shallow pan
on top of the materials to be treated in
ratio of ]/2 ounce to 1 cubic foot of cham-
ber space. Open windows and doors when
placing or removing fumigant as the va-
pors of carbon tetrachloride are toxic.

DO NOT attempt to fumigate an entire
dwelling; this should be done only by a
licensed pest control operator.

5. Cold storage. Placing articles in cold
storage will kill insects if temperatures
of 0° F or lower are maintained for a day
or more. A deep freeze can be utilized for
this purpose.

6. Heating. Insects are killed in about
two hours if exposed to a temperature of
120° F. Higher temperatures require
shorter exposures, but DO NOT let the
temperature rise above 140° F, as the
article being treated may be injured.

The insects must be actually subjected
to the lethal heat. Because the tempera-
ture in their hiding places will rise more

slowly, the air temperature of the room
itself should be raised to 125° to 135° F
and held there for about 12 hours.

Protecting rugs. Infested rugs should
be removed, cleaned, and treated to pre-
vent reinfestation. Pull up wall-to-wall
carpeting around the edges (of the room)
and treat underside and pad with a 5 per
cent DDT solution or 0.5 per cent diel-
drin solution. After re-laying, lightly
spray its upper surface.

For new carpeting, thoroughly clean
the floor and spray both sides of the pad
as well as the underside of the carpeting.
If this is not feasible, spray the floor with
DDT or dieldrin, or place a 10 per cent
DDT dust on the floor before pad is put
down. After the pad is down, spray or
dust its upper surface. This should give
protection for several years. Treating
with a fluoride solution (page 12) gives
satisfactory control and protection.

CENTIPEDES

Size, adult:
I

Centipede, Cermatia forceps (Raf .)

Centipedes are flattened, many-legged,
wormlike creatures of rapid movement.
They normally live outdoors, but occa-
sionally are found in clothing, beds,
shoes, and other dark places. The house
centipede is brownish with black stripes
on the long legs and three longitudinal
black stripes on the upper surface of the
body. It usually lives in damp cellars,
but may rove throughout the house, and
can inflict a painful, but usually not se-
rious bite.

[13]

WHAT TO DO:

In the home, use sprays containing
pyrethrins, 5 per cent DDT or 0.5 per
cent lindane solution, or spot treatment
with 5 per cent malathion spray. To pre-
vent entry, and to control them outside
the home, use sprays containing 0.5 per
cent dieldrin or lindane, 2 to 3 per cent
chlordane or 5 per cent DDT. Dusts con-
taining 5 to 6 per cent chlordane or 5
per cent DDT may also be used. Treat
foundations, joists and subfloor supports
of buildings, the ground under the build-
ings, wall areas immediately around
doors, and windows or other openings.

Eliminate accumulations of debris,
stacks of lumber, or stored household
effects from basements or locations near
the house.

CEREAL
MITES

Size: less than 0.5 mm

Cereal Mite, Tyrophagus putrescent iae

(Shrank)

Cereal mites, Tyrophagus putrescentiae
(Schrank) , are frequently found in enor-
mous numbers in cereal and cereal prod-
ucts, but also on other stored food, par-
ticularly cheese and dried meat. The
mites are pale-colored, wingless, smooth,
soft-bodied, nearly microscopic organ-
ism with four pairs of legs.

In large numbers the mites appear as
loose, fluffy masses of gray powder. They
sometimes swarm from infested materials
and may even attack humans handling
infested materials, causing a severe skin
condition known as "grocer's itch."

Moist conditions favor their develop-
ment. Large numbers of mites indicate
that the infested product has a higher
than desired moisture content.

WHAT TO DO:

Locate and destroy the infested mate-
rial. Clean the surroundings and keep
them as dry as possible. Heating an in-
fested unit or product at 130° F for sev-
eral hours will kill cereal and related
mites.

To prevent future infestations, keep
the storage area dry and follow precau-
tions listed under pantry beetles on
page 28.

CLOTHES MOTHS

Webbing Clothes Moth, Tineola biselliella

(Hum.)

J—— | Size, adult body length

Casemaking Clothes Moth, Tinea pellionella

(Linn.)

Clothes moths are most destructive when
articles subject to attack are left undis-
turbed for long periods.

Damage caused by clothes moths can
be distinguished from that of carpet
beetles by the silk-lined tubes made by
the webbing clothes moth, Tineola bisel-
liella Hum., and the silken parchment-
like cases constructed by the casemaking
clothes moth, Tinea pellionella Linn.
Carpet beetles spin no webbing.

Both moths are small, the adults with
wings folded measuring about *4 inch in
length. The adult webbing clothes moth

Mi I

is buff-colored and has a satiny sheen;
hairs on the head are upright, and red-
dish in color. The casemaking clothes
moth is similar, but has indistinct dark
spots on the wings, and has lighter-
colored hairs on the head.

Clothes moths are not strong fliers.
They prefer darkness, but will flit about
the margins of lighted areas. When in-
fested fabrics are disturbed, the moths
run rapidly or fly to conceal themselves.
This ability to disappear is character-
istic.

All damage is done by the larvae or
caterpillars. Larvae have pearly white
bodies, dark heads, and are about % inch
long when fully grown. On some foods
their bodies may be nearly translucent;
on others, they become more opaque and
somewhat dingy in color.

The larva of the casemaking clothes
moth constructs a. silken, parchment-like
case; when disturbed it retreats into it.
Larvae of the webbing clothes moth live
within silken burrows which they con-
struct, and which includes parts of the
fabric they are living on.

The natural food of clothes moths con-
sists of unprocessed materials such as
pollen, hair, feathers, wool, fur, insect
remains, and other dried animal prod-
ucts.

Any accumulations of these materials
in cracks in the floor or other protected
places are very likely to be infested and
furnish reservoirs of infestation.

A new generation of moths may de-
velop in three months to a year in undis-
turbed breeding sites, with a resulting
increase in rate of damage.

WHAT TO DO:

Follow the control measures outlined
for carpet beetles on pages 11-12. Brush
and air all materials. In brushing, pay
particular attention to seams, folds, and
similar places, as brushing crushes and
dislodges eggs.

The pest does not like sunlight; larvae
will drop from goods hung in bright sun.

CLOVER
MITES

Size: body length 0.7 mm

Clover Mite, Bryobia praetiosa Koch

The common clover mite, Bryobia prae-
tiosa Koch, is one of the larger mites,
measuring %00 inch in length. It has
relatively long front legs which extend
forward and are about as long as the
body. It varies in color from dusty brown
to dull green. Hordes of these pests may
invade California homes at almost any
season of the year.

The mite feeds on the leaves of such
plants as clover, alfalfa, peas, grasses,
and numerous herbs, shrubs, and trees.
Infestations can usually be traced to in-
fested plants, particularly grass very
close to the house. The clover mite creates
a nuisance in the home by its presence
and by crawling over the skin of occu-
pants, but it does not bite.

WHAT TO DO:

Indoors, spray odorless white kerosene
directly on the mites, and into cracks
where they may hide. Many commercial
household sprays, particularly those con-
taining malathion, will kill the mites upon
contact. Aerosol household bombs de-
signed to wet treated surfaces will kill all
mites contacted. In severe infestation,
repeated applications are necessary.

To prevent entry of mites, remove all
vegetation, especially grass in contact
with the house, to a distance of 12 to 18
inches. Treat the side of the house and
surrounding vegetation with a 3 per cent
aramite dust, or a spray containing %
ounce of 15 per cent wettable powder of

[15]

aramite in 1 gallon of water. A sorptive
dust (page 5) has been found effective
in controlling clover mite infestations
out of doors when applied at the rate of
1 to l1/? pounds per 1,000 square feet of
lawn area. Under warm conditions dust-
ing with sulfur gives some relief, but
tracking sulfur into the home may result
in tarnishing of silverware, and sulfur is
also very irritating to the eyes.

COCKROACHES

Adult female
Size:

i ;:

Adult male

American Cockroach, Periplaneta americana

(Linn.)

Size, adult female

I

Size, adult female

Australian Cockroach, German Cockroach,
Periplaneta australasiae Blatella germanica
(Fabr.) (Linn.)

Cockroaches are flattened, fast-running,
nocturnal, insects which are fond of
warm, moist areas. They contaminate
food and often leave a very unpleasant
odor on the materials they infest. General
feeders, they will even feed on such

[

/ ' \

Adult female
Size:

Adult male

Oriental Cockroach, Blatta orientalis (Linn.)

materials as bookbindings and fabrics.

The five species found in California
homes are the American cockroach, Peri-
planeta americana (Linn.) (l]/2 to 2
inches long, reddish-brown wings com-
pletely covering the abdomen ) , the Aus-
tralian cockroach, P. australasiae (Fab.)
(1 to IV2 inches long, yellow streak on
the outer edge of wings), the German
cockroach, Blatella germanica (Linn.)
(% inch long, light brown, two darker
longitudinal stripes on the shield cover-
ing its head), the brown-banded cock-
roach, Supella supellectilium (Serv.)
(% to 1/2 inch long, pale brown, with two
paler crossbands on the wings) and the
oriental cockroach, Blatta orientalis
(Linn.) (l1/^ inches long, black to
brownish, male with short wings, adult
female nearly wingless).

In heavily cockroach-infested houses
where food is readily available and it is
warm and humid, cockroaches will be
found at almost any hour of the day. In
lightly and moderately infested homes
cockroaches generally will be found only
during the late evening and early morn-
ing hours.

Cockroaches lay their eggs in leathery
capsules, called oothecae, which are fre-
quently seen protruding from the abdo-
men of females. These capsules are even-
tually dropped or attached to some ob-
ject. Newly hatched cockroaches are very
small, but resemble adults sufficiently to
be recognizable.

16]

I

Left to right, American, Oriental, brown-banded, and German cockroaches. Slightly enlarged.

WHAT TO DO:

Good housekeeping is the key to cock-
roach control; insecticides alone give
only temporary relief. Therefore, before
using any insecticide, clean all areas
thoroughly so that no food particles,
debris, dust and clutter remain to foster
cockroach infestation.

Keep all food — cereals, crackers, meats,
vegetables, flour, condiments, etc. —
tightly covered or in a refrigerator at all
times between uses. Pay particular atten-
tion to cat, dog and other pet foods —
cockroaches can subsist on these alone.
Return all excess pet food to its con-
tainer, close tightly or put in refrigera-
tor; keep feeding dish thoroughly washed
out; sweep up immediately all food
dropped on the floor.

Keep garbage and waste containers
covered. If uncovered, they should be
completely emptied into covered con-
tainer every night, and emptied fre-
quently during the day. Keep waste bins
covered at all times; keep unused or in-

frequently used incinerators closed or
covered, and seal all cracks and crevices
in the brick, concrete or masonry.

In heavily infested establishments,
eliminate — at least until the cockroaches
are under control — all possible hiding
places such as flags, pictures, ceramic
wall decorations, calendars, penants, an-
timacassars, dresser and table scarves,
piano and couch throws, decorative pil-
lows, scatter rugs and draperies. Before
rehanging, or before treatment if they
cannot be left off during treatment, all
items should be laundered or dry-cleaned.
Infested materials in closets, cupboards,
and drawers should be cleaned and the
drawers or closets wiped clean before
treatment and replacement of the cleaned
items. Dispose of all stored magazines,
newspapers and accumulated items. All
decorative bric-a-brac and collections
around which cockroaches have been
found should be washed or cleaned, and
stored temporarily until a fair measure
of control is obtained.

[17

#%

»

1I|# .

Egg cases of cockroaches. Left to right, Oriental cockroach, American cockroach, German cock-
roach, and brown banded cockroach. Shown 4 times actual size.

Empty boxes containing bulbs, seeds,
grains, fertilizers, etc. Thoroughly dry
bulbs and seeds before storing them in
wooden or metal containers.

Reduce breeding areas by repairing
and sealing all cracks and crevices in
walls, floors and ceilings. It is particu-
larly important to seal all openings
around pipes, between window sills and
walls, around loose door and window
frames, along baseboards and ceiling
moldings, around electrical outlets, etc.

Before applying insecticides, com-
pletely empty all cupboards, drawers,
closets, chests, stoves, etc.; remove even
the lining paper. Take from the cabinets
all drawers, chopping and bread boards,
and flour, sugar and vegetable bins, to
avoid contamination with insecticide and
to facilitate treating. Remove all food,
dishes, pans, utensils, etc. from the cup-
boards and place them in another room;
cover them if they must remain in the
area being treated.

INSECTICIDES:

Once these preparations have been
made you may use a number of insecti-
cides:

Sorptive dust (page 5). Limited infes-

tations may be spot-treated with sorptive
dust. For control of widespread infesta-
tions the recommended rate of ^4 to 1
pound of the dust per 1,000 square feet
of total floor area is sufficient for dusting
all shelves; cabinets; cupboards; base-
boards; moldings; and areas under,
around and behind appliances, furniture,
wall hangings, fuse boxes, electrical wall
outlets, electrical switches and fixtures,
floor furnaces, door frames and hinges.
Apply the insecticide at the same rate for
dusting attics, subfloor areas, basements,
etc.

Leave the dust in cabinets, under
stoves, refrigerators, and other appli-
ances, in the attic, walls and sub-floor
spaces. In drawers and on shelves where
eating utensils and food will not become
contaminated cover dust by a single sheet
of shelf paper. In conspicuous places
leave dust for several days, or until the
infestation in these areas has been dras-
tically reduced. Dust accidentally damp-
ened need not be replaced.

Sprays. Limited infestations may be
spot-treated with a 3 per cent malathion
spray; avoid contamination of food or
cooking utensils. Two to 3 per cent chlor-
dane, 0.5 per cent dieldrin, and 5 per

[18

cent DDT sprays, have provided good
control of cockroaches in the past, but
in many areas cockroaches have devel-
oped a resistance to them. Diazinon is
effective as a 0.5 per cent spray, but its
use is usually restricted to pest control
operators.

Powdered sodium fluoride is useful in
controlling cockroaches, but its poison-
ous nature necessitates a great deal of
caution. Its effectiveness is increased
when used in combination with pyreth-
rum; the most effective preparation con-
tains 75 per cent sodium fluoride and 25
per cent pyrethrum of 0.6 to 0.9 per cent
pyrethrin content.

Sodium fluosilicate is sometimes used
instead of sodium fluoride since it is less
poisonous. However, follow carefully di-
rections given on the container when
using any of these materials. Bait pellets
are effective, though often rather slow in
controlling infestations.

To prevent future infestations, ex-
amine carefully all supplies, containers,
and other materials brought into the
house. Kill every cockroach seen.

CRICKETS

Size, adult:

Common Field Cricket, Acheta assimilis

(Fabr.)

The common field crickets, Acheta as-
similis (Fabr.), are large, brown to
black, swift-moving insects with long
feelers. They breed outdoors but some-
times migrate into houses, where they
feed on fabrics, particularly those soiled
or food-stained; they are attracted to
lights and may collect in large numbers.

WHAT TO DO:

Apply dusts containing 2 per cent
chlordane, 0.5 per cent dieldrin or a
sorptive dust (page 5), or sprays that
contain chlordane, dieldrin, pyrethrum,
malathion, or combinations of these ma-
terials, to hiding places and to floors
along the baseboards. Household aerosol
bombs of the type designed for wetting
the treated surface, or household spray
materials that contain a combination of
some of the above insecticides, can also
be used effectively. If a dust is used and
there is no danger of contaminating food-
stuffs, blow it into cracks and other hid-
ing places; apply it across door sills and
along foundations to kill many of the
pests before they enter the house.

Pyrethrum-sodium fluoride or pyreth-
rum-sodium fluosilicate are also effective,
but must be used with great caution.

Where crickets are extremely abun-
dant, poison baits or applications of
sprays or dusts containing 10 per cent
chlordane or 0.5 per cent dieldrin or
granular heptachlor may be used outside
the home to destroy the pests. These ma-
terials should be scattered about the
foundation of the house and throughout
the garden.

FLEAS

Size, adult:

Flea, Nosopsyllus fasciatus (Bosc.)

Adult fleas are small, dark reddish-brown
insects with legs well developed for jump-
ing. The flea not only causes itching and
swelling by its bite, but some species act
as carriers of plague, endemic typhus,
tularemia, or other diseases and para-
sites of man.

Fleas commonly found on dogs, cats,
and house rodents, will frequently feed
on man, particularly if the pets or ro-

[19]

dents have been removed from the prem-
ises. Man is often attacked by the human
flea, Pulex irritans Linn., an elusive pest
which can cause extreme annoyance by
biting repeatedly during a short period
of time.

Many people seem to develop a certain
tolerance to flea bites when continually
exposed to them. However, present con-
trol methods are so effective that there is
little excuse for flea-infested homes or
public gathering places.

WHAT TO DO:

On humans, dogs, and most animals
except cats, apply a 10 per cent DDT in
pyrophyllite dust. One to 2 teaspoons of
dust is sufficient for an individual.

In areas where fleas are resistant to
DDT, use one of the insecticides given
below :

A 1 per cent lindane dust may be ap-
plied lightly to the back and neck of dogs.
Malathion may be applied to both dogs
and cats as a 4 per cent dust, or as a
heavy spray made by mixing 1 ounce of
the commercial 57 per cent emulsion con-
centrate in one gallon of water. Flea
powders containing pyrethrum or rote-
none will quickly rid dogs and cats of
most of their fleas, but some will survive,
so collect them for disposal by combing
the animal over paper 15 minutes after
treatment.

A sorptive dust (page 5) or a 5%
Sevin® dust is also effective. Use % to
% ounce per animal, depending on its
size and coat. Carefully work the dust
into the hair or fur over the entire body.
See illustrations, page 5.

Treat pets repeatedly if they roam
freely or come in contact with other in-
fested animals. Where flea infestation is
moderate and man is not attacked, only
the animal may need to be treated. Other-
wise, include treatment of your home,
animal quarters, and yards. Fleas take
about three weeks or more to develop
from eggs. During this time the imma-
ture stages feed on animal debris. This

explains why you may have a heavy flea
infestation although your pet has left
weeks ago. Concentrate treatments on
places the pet has occupied.

In treating animal quarters, apply in-
secticide to wall cracks, floors and sub-
floor areas of shelters. Flea eggs, which
are small, rounded, and white, are usu-
ally found on floor, bedding, or similar
locations. Treat or destroy bedding.
Thoroughly treat dog runs, working the
insecticide well into graveled areas, by
raking if necessary. Four per cent mala-
thion dust, or a sorptive dust (page 00),
are effective; dust into all crevices of the
housing. On dog runs apply with a large
hand duster at the rate of 1 pound per
1,000 square feet. A spray of 2 per cent
malathion emulsion is also useful.

To control fleas in the home, spray *
with a household preparation containing
at least 2 per cent malathion emulsion or
0.5 per cent lindane. Moisten surfaces
visibly, using a spray nozzle producing
a coarse droplet spray and holding the
nozzle a few inches from the surface.
Thoroughly spray basements. Treat up-
holstering, rugs, and all places which *
might offer refuge to fleas, but make
certain by tests that the spray will not
stain delicate fabrics.

Insecticidal dusts are effective in the
home, but will result in temporary un-
sightliness. One of the most promising
is the silica-gel-ammonium fluosilicate
sorptive dust (page 5). You may leave
it indefinitely in inconspicuous areas but
it should remain at least 24 hours in all
infested areas.

Animals often have access to areas
under houses and porches and are the
cause of heavy flea infestations. In ex-
ceptional cases, lawns and yard areas also
become flea ridden. Treat these sites with
one of the following dusts at the rate of
1 pound per 1,000 square feet of surface:
4 per cent malathion, 1 per cent lindane,
or sorptive dust (page 5).

Fleas in many areas have developed a

[20

resistance to insecticides such as DDT
and chlordane, and in some places even
to malathion and lindane. Sorptive dusts
alone or in combination with various in-
secticides, as well as Sevin® show much
future promise for control of resistant
flea strains. Resistant fleas also may be
controlled by scattering flaked naph-
thalene over the floors of infested rooms
— about 5 pounds per room — and seal-
ing the rooms for 1 to 2 days. Sweep up
remaining naphthalene flakes and store
them in a tight container for future use.

FLIES

Common size,
adult:

Common Housefly, Musca domestica Linn.

Common size,
adult:

Stable Fly, Stomoxys calcitrans (Linn.)

Common size,
adult:

I \

Black Blowfly, Phormia Sp.
The common housefly, Musca domestica
(Linn.), is more than a nuisance. With

Common size,
adult:

Fleshfly, Sarcophagid

Common
size, adult:

H

Vinegar Fly, Drosophila melanogaster

Meigen

its ability to reproduce rapidly and to
move quickly from filthy surroundings
to the food of man, it can be a carrier of
such diseases as typhoid fever, and bacil-
lary and amoebic dysentery.

In 30 days a single fly may lay more
than 2,000 eggs in excrement, in garbage,
kitchen refuse, stacked lawn clippings,
and other decomposing plant and animal
matter. In warm weather the egg may
hatch in less than 2 days, producing a
white maggot or larva. In warm or pro-
tected environments, fly reproduction
may continue throughout the year.

In cities, housefly infestations usually
can be traced to their breeding source
within the distance of a city block. How-
ever, these pests may fly or be trans-
ported by wind for several miles.

In addition to the grayish-black house-
fly, you may find in your home several
other kinds of flies. These are controlled
in the same manner as the housefly, al-
though control of their maggots varies.

The stable fly, Stomoxys calcitrans
(Linn.) , which resembles the true house-

[21

fly, has a slender pointed beak with
which it can pierce the skin and draw
blood. Normally an outdoor fly which
feeds on domesticated animals, it tends
to enter houses in rainy weather or in the
autumn.

To control its maggots, dispose of
stable manure or urine-soaked straw
daily, as well as moist decaying vegeta-
tion such as lawn clippings or plant
masses cast upon shores or beaches.

The lesser housefly, Fannia canicularis
(Linn.), and the latrine fly, Fannia sea-
laris (Fabr.), are characteristically seen
flying back and forth in the middle of a
room. They seldom light on human food
and are therefore less apt to contaminate
food than the true housefly, which they
resemble. Maggots of these species de-
velop from eggs laid in well-decayed,
semi-liquid vegetable matter or in excre-
ment.

The false stable fly, Muscina stabulans
(Fallen) , larger and stouter than the true
housefly, has a general dark gray ap-
pearance. It cannot bite, but may enter
houses and lay its eggs on foods, partic-
ularly those that are slightly spoiled.

Blowflies are somewhat larger than the
common housefly, and several of them
(such as the black blowfly, Phormia; the
bluebottle, Calliphora; and the green-
bottles, Lucilia and Phaenicia) are char-
acterized by brilliant metallic colors.
These flies make a much louder droning
buzz than do true houseflies, and will
lay eggs on exposed meat, resulting in
what is known as "flyblown flesh."

Fleshflies (sarcophagids) look like
overgrown houseflies; the more common
ones have a checkerboard pattern on the
abdomen. They deposit living maggots —
rather than eggs — in decaying flesh and
excrement, especially dog stools.

Vinegar or Drosophila fly, Drosophila
melanogaster Meigen, is a small light
brown or orange yellow fly about % inch
long. Under favorable conditions it passes
through a life cycle in a week to 10 days.
The adults are strongly attracted to fer-

menting substances and prefer to lay
their eggs in moist breaks in the skin of
ripe fruit. The fly reaches maximum
numbers in late summer or fall. Enor-
mous populations develop in discarded
fruit and other waste. In autumn they
frequently swarm into houses and sur-
rounding areas, particularly if any fer-
menting materials are present; adults
are sometimes attracted to freshly painted
surfaces. To keep the pest out, destroy
fermenting and spoiling fruit, fruit waste,
fruit peelings, etc. Keep ripe fruit or mel-
ons with broken skins in a refrigerator.
Replace corks in beverage bottles and
rinse beverage glasses as soon as possible.

WHAT TO DO:

For immediate knockdown of flies, use
a space or contact spray directly into the
air of the room; these sprays are of little
residual value if sprayed on walls or
windows. For application of space sprays,
use a 1 pint to 2 quart hand sprayer sup-
plied with a nozzle producing very fine
droplets.

Aerosol bombs are also convenient to
use, but have little residual effect on flies
entering the premises after treatment.

Where insecticide resistant flies have
not become a problem, DDT or methoxy-
chlor solutions may be applied, as given
below, to window sills or inside walls.
Relatively long-lasting killing effective-
ness against flies may be obtained by
spraying residual insecticides on outer
walls where flies are observed to rest,
around window and door frames, and on
door screens, ceilings, light fixtures, walls
of porches and patios, and around gar-
bage cans and out-buildings.

Apply residual insecticides with a
coarse droplet spray at a rate of 1 gallon
to 1000 square feet for emulsions or solu-
tions. Where suspensions are used, 1 gal-
lon will cover about 500 square feet. So-
lutions containing contact insecticides
are inflammable and toxic to plants; see
page 6 for precautions.

The following formulations are sug-

[22]

gested for use as residual insecticides
outside the home: emulsion or solution
sprays of 1 to 2 per cent malathion, (or
5 per cent malathion for spot treatment) ;
1 per cent ronnel (Korlan®) ; 0.6 per
cent dieldrin; 0.5 per cent lindane; 2
per cent chlordane; 5 per cent DDT or
methoxychlor. Suspension sprays of the
same insecticides may also be used. Dia-
zinon® as a V2 to 1 per cent spray, or
Dibrom® as a 0.6 per cent spray, are
good outside residual sprays, but use is
normally restricted to pest control oper-
ators.

Remember that the use of chemicals
is not a substitute for good sanitary
methods.

In neighborhoods where flies are trace-
able to widespread breeding areas, com-
munity action may be necessary to en-
force control.

Since the life cycle of flies may be com-
pleted in a week to 10 days, all breeding
sites should be treated or disposed of
weekly during warm weather. Where
there is no regular garbage collection,
dump waste into a pit and spray with a
larvicide, such as a 1 per cent ronnel
(Korlan®) or Diazinon® whenever fresh
manure is added. Fresh manure spread
daily in thin layers in fields as a fertilizer
will seldom be a source of fly breeding.

Agencies from which advice may be
sought include county farm advisors and
local and state public health departments.

LICE

Man may be infested by three different
kinds of lice: the head louse, the body
louse or cootie, and the crab louse. All
three thrive in crowded, unsanitary liv-
ing conditions, and cause much irritation
to the persons attacked. Additionally, the
body louse is an important means of
transmitting such diseases as epidemic
typhus, relapsing fever, and trench fever.
The head louse is a biological strain
of Pediculus humanus which spends its
entire life on the hairy part of the human

Size, adult body louse: |_j
Size, adult crab louse: H

Body Louse
Pediculus humanus
(Linn.)

Crab Louse

Pthirus pubis

(Linn.)

head. It is a flattened insect, whitish to
blue-gray in color (depending on how
recently it has fed), and up to % mcn
long. It derives food by sucking blood.

The body louse looks like the head
louse, but lives mainly on clothing near
the body. The eggs are fastened to cloth-
ing, usually under seams. The young lice
need food within a day after hatching.

The crab louse, Pthirus pubis (Linn.) ,
also known as the pubic louse, is a short,
broad insect about Vs mcn l°ng with
thickened, crab-like legs. Characteris-
tically, it lives in the pubic region and
armpits, but may be found on any hairy
portion of the body — even the eyebrows.
Eggs are fastened to body hairs. The
pubic lice are spread primarily by pro-
miscuous sexual intercourse.

WHAT TO DO:

Use a 10 per cent DDT powder to
control these pests. If lice are DDT resist-
ant, use one of alternatives suggested
below.

For head lice, dust a teaspoonful of the
powder thoroughly into the hair. One
treatment should be sufficient if the hair
is not washed for 10 days. Otherwise, a
second treatment will be necessary to
kill lice which will have hatched from
eggs in the hair.

Be sure to read precautions, page 6,
before applying any insecticides.

[23]

The NBIN spray used by the U. S.
armed forces is a good treatment for head
lice. It contains, in parts by weight,
benzyl benzoate-68, DDT-6, benzocaine-
12, Tween 80-14. This stock is diluted
with 5 volumes of water; spray on the
hair to moisten rather than wet, keeping
out of the eyes. Do not wash hair for at
least 24 hours after treatment.

A 3 per cent rotenone powder may be
applied as a dust or a wash. Rotenone
should be washed off the morning follow-
ing treatment. Do not get it into the eyes,
as it will cause swelling and irritation.
Prepare the wash by mixing 2% table-
spoonfuls of rotenone powder and 1
tablespoonful of neutral soap in 1 pint
of warm water. This treatment will not
kill louse eggs; therefore, two applica-
tions should be given within an 8 to 10
day interval.

Lauryl thiocyanate, pyrethrum, and
larkspur solution are fairly effective
agents and are frequently used in com-
mercial mixtures. Vinegar will loosen
eggs attached to hairs, and eggs can then
be removed with a fine-toothed comb.

Body lice require treatment of the in-
fested person and his clothing. Dust a 10
per cent DDT powder in the hair and
thoroughly into the clothing, particularly
the seams. Bathe before treatment, but
not for 24 hours afterwards. As an alter-
native to bathing you may use the NBIN
formula mentioned above as a light spray
for the hairy parts of the body.

Body lice can also be killed by bathing
with a kerosene soap emulsion prepared
with 2 parts of kerosene to 1 part of soap
chips and 4 parts water; work up a lather
on body and let it remain for 15 minutes.
A 1 per cent lindane dust may be ap-
plied as an alternative method, following
the procedure given for DDT.

Also effective is a 3 per cent rotenone
powder dusted lightly over the body at
intervals for 3 weeks; observe precau-
tions listed under head lice. Other effec-
tive materials include mixtures of naph-
thalene, creosote, sulfur, and iodoform.

Infested clothing and bedding should
be dusted with 10 per cent DDT or
treated by one of the following methods:

Wash with a 5 per cent cresol solution
in water or soak for 30 minutes in 2 per
cent cresol at 100° F.

Bake materials such as leather, felt,
and rubber at 140° F for 20 minutes.
DO NOT treat woolens in this manner.

Soak cotton and similar materials in
water at 150° F for 5 minutes.

Storage of clothing for three weeks
normally eliminates any lice present.
Fumigation of clothing is not recom-
mended for use in ordinary households.

Pubic lice should be treated with DDT
powder as described above under head
lice, with special attention to the pubic
region and armpits; the NBIN mixture
mentioned will also control the infesta-
tion if sprayed lightly on these areas. An
effective ointment contains 1 part by vol-
ume of 5 per cent rotenone to 10 parts
petrolatum. Mercurial ointment is not
recommended because of its poisonous
nature.

MEAL MOTHS

Flour and meal moths are pantry pests
which complete their immature stages of
development in the food they infest. The
larvae are pale in color and % inch long
when fully grown. Adults with wings
folded are about % inch long.

The two most common species found
in the home are the Indian meal moth,
Plodia interpunctella (Hbn.), and the
Mediterranean flour moth, Anagasta
kuhniella (Zell.). All damage is done by
the larvae, which attack a wide range of
products, including cereal and cereal
products, chicken mash and similar
foods, dried fruits, dehydrated vege-
tables, nuts, chocolate, candies, and vari-
ous other confections.

The larvae spin webbing over and
through materials they infest, a charac-
teristic which distinguishes their damage

[24

Body size, adult:

Larva: \-

Indian Meal Moth, Ploclia interpunctella

(Hbn.)

-| Body size, adult
1 Larva

Mediterranean Flour Moth.
Anagasta kuhniella (Zell.)

from that of pantry beetles. Upon com-
pleting their development the larvae usu-
ally leave the foodstuffs and spin silken
cocoons near by.

When infestations are heavy, mature
larvae of the moths are often found in
parts of the house far from the original
food source.

The larvae of both species are very
similar and are sparsely covered with
rather long hairs. The Mediterranean
flour moth larva has black spots at the
base of the hairs (particularly those
along back and sides) which are absent
in the Indian meal moth.

The adult Mediterranean flour moth is
slightly larger than the Indian meal moth.
Its f orewings are lead gray, speckled with
black or with transverse wavy black lines,
and hind wings are of a uniform, lighter
gray color.

The outer two thirds of the forewings
of the adult Indian meal moth are cop-
pery brown, while the basal third is pale
gray. The hind wings lack distinctive
markings and are more or less uniformly
gray.

WHAT TO DO:

Follow control measures suggested for
pantry beetles on pages 28-30.

MILLIPEDES

Millipede

Millipedes are slow-moving, shiny, worm-
like creatures with many pairs of legs.
They are usually found in damp places
rich in decaying organic matter, and are
seldom very destructive unless present in
large numbers.

Under certain conditions millipedes
enter homes or crawl up the sides of
houses.

WHAT TO DO:

Apply a residual contact insecticide
containing dieldrin or lindane, or these
materials in combination with malathion,
around the foundations of the house and
infested areas. Seal all cracks and open-
ings through which the pest may enter
the house. Screen ground-level window
openings. Remove rubbish and other ac-
cumulations near the foundations. Keep
vines and shrubs from growing over win-
dows or other openings.

[25]

MOSQUITOES

Mosquito, Culex pens Speiser

Mosquitoes are not only annoying, but
may carry encephalomyelitis, malaria,
dengue fever, and numerous other seri-
ous diseases.

They lay their eggs singly or in rafts
on the surface of water, or in depressions
which may later contain water. The
emerging larva (wriggler) lives and de-
velops only in water.

WHAT TO DO:

If you live in one of the many mos-
quito abatement districts in California,
report any undue numbers of mosquitoes
to the district office, which has trained
personnel and equipment for locating
and treating the source of breeding.
Other agencies from which advice may
be obtained include the Entomology and
Parasitology Department of the Univer-
sity of California, local farm advisors,
and local and state health departments.

Control. For immediate control in-
doors, close infested rooms and mist-
spray the air with a kerosene solution
containing knockdown agents such as
pyrethrins, or Lethane 334 plus killing
agents such as DDT. You can also use
aerosol bombs which emit the insecticide
in the form of a mist. Such sprays or
aerosols kill only mosquitoes present in
the room at the time of treatment.

For a residual spray, use a 5 per cent
solution of DDT in refined white kero-
sene. Apply this directly to all the inner
walls of the house and to the underside
of tables and other furniture. Apply as a
coarse spray in sufficient amount to wet
the surface but without runoff of excess
liquid.

DDT and methoxychlor are the only
materials recommended for widespread
use as residual sprays against mosquitoes
in the home; of these DDT is preferable.
Such sprays are inflammable; see page 6
for precautions.

Residual sprays may be applied out-
side the home on walls and ceilings of
porches, on door screens, around doors
and windows, on foundations of build-
ings, on tree trunks, and in outbuildings.
The deposits will kill mosquitoes resting
on the treated surfaces, and may retain
their effectiveness for several weeks. Re-
sidual spray solutions or emulsions of the
following types are suggested: 0.5 per
cent Diazinon® or dieldrin; 1 per cent
lindane ; 2 per cent chlordane ; 5 per cent
DDT. Use about 1% gallons of spray for
1,000 square feet of surface treated. If
vegetation is sprayed, use only suspen-
sions prepared from wettable powders of
the insecticides; suggested insecticides
are 1 per cent lindane, 2% per cent DDT
or chlordane. See directions on the label
for mixing. Because of their high concen-
tration, use sprays of this nature with
great caution in treating vegetation;
there is some danger of plant injury, and
a real possibility that treatments may
cause an increase in pest populations of
plants.

For temporary but quick relief from
mosquitoes outdoors, use pyrethrum or
allethrin insecticides applied by an aero-
sol bomb, or hand or power sprayers pro-
ducing a fine mist. Direct spray so that it
drifts through vegetation.

Repellents. A few drops of mosquito
repellent rubbed over exposed skin sur-
faces will usually provide protection
from bites for 2 or more hours. Dimethyl
phthalate, 612, and Indalone are quite
effective, alone or as mixtures. Diethyl-
toluamide, available commercially under
a variety of trade names, is very effective.
Oil of citronella is relatively ineffective.

To prevent mosquito breeding: Empty
all water containers. Keep water from

[26]

collecting under buildings; check leak-
ing water pipes and drains. Treat open
water containers used for fire protection
with 5 per cent DDT, preferably in emul-
sion form, or add crude cresylic acid
diluted 1 to 9 with water until the water
has a milky color.

Water containers can also be treated
with phenothiazine. Mix 2 ounces of
phenothiazine with 1 ounce of a commer-
cial detergent such as used for dish wash-
ing. One teaspoonful of this mixture will
treat 50 gallons of water.

Garden pools, unless stocked with fish,
may require weekly treatment with a
larvicide to prevent mosquito breeding.
DO NOT apply DDT to water containing
fish; even small amounts are harmful.
Pools containing plants or fish may be
treated with a light spray of pyrethrum
oil solution applied at a rate of not over
1 ounce of a stock material containing
0.02 per cent pyrethrins per 100 square
feet of water surface. Repetition of treat-
ment at one to two week intervals in warm
weather may be needed.

Cesspools and septic tanks may also
serve as breeding areas. All openings to
these tanks should be tightly screened.
The tops should be tightly constructed
and adequately covered with soil. Pend-
ing other corrective measures, the tanks
or ponds can be treated weekly by spray-
ing lightly with a solution of 5 per cent
DDT in light oil.

If water stands for over a week in
warm weather (as little as five days in
some areas), it may produce many mos-
quitoes. Temporary control may be ob-
tained by spraying with 1 per cent solu-
tions or emulsions of DDT, methoxy-
chlor, chlordane, malathion or toxa-
phene, or a 0.5 per cent spray of lindane;
use 1 ounce of these sprays for each 100
square feet of surface. Kerosene or diesel
oil spread on the water surface will also
kill mosquito larvae. Where mosquitoes
have developed a resistance to chlori-
nated hydrocarbon insecticides, such as
DDT, one of the following materials may

be substituted as a larvicide: Diazinon®,
ronnel (=Korlan®), malathion, Pyro-
cide®, Co-Ral®, DDVP.

Mosquitoes will breed by the thou-
sands in tree holes containing from a
cupful to a gallon or more of water. Such
holes should be permanently filled and
given a cement cap. Unless heavy rains
occur, breeding also may be controlled
for two months or more by a light spray-
ing weekly with 5 per cent DDT in kero-
sene, or by applying a heavy residual
spray of 5 per cent DDT emulsion. Cresy-
lic acid painted in the holes will usually
control breeding for an entire season.

In areas plagued with mosquitoes,
doors and windows should be screened
with screen of 16 or more meshes to the
inch.

PANTRY
BEETLES

| — | Size
Bean Weevil, Acanthoscelides obtectus (Say)

Size:

Size:

Granary Weevil, Confused Flour Beetle,

Sitophilus granarius Tribolium confusum

(Linn.) Duv.

Small beetles found in and near stored
foodstuffs may be one of several species

[27]

Size:

H

Drugstore Beetle,
Stegobium paniceum

(Linn.)

Saw-toothed Grain
Beetle, Oryzaephilus
surinamensis (Linn.)

which can be grouped as pantry beetles.
Control will differ according to their
feeding habits — whether they are general
feeders or restricted feeders.

Restricted feeders, such as the bean
weevil, Acanthoscelides obtectus (Say),
the granary weevil, Sitophilus granarius
(Linn.), and the rice weevil, Sitophilus
oryzae (Linn.), feed primarily on seeds.
Eggs are laid on the seeds, the larvae
bore inside to complete their develop-
ment, and holes are cut out by the emerg-
ing adult beetle. Left unchecked, breed-
ing will continue until all of the seeds are
destroyed.

The adult bean weevil, about % inch
long, is chunky or squarish and the head
has a short broad beak. It is velvety gray
or brown with pale longitudinal or linear
black and white markings. It attacks only
beans, peas, and certain other legume
seeds. The larvae are legless, grublike,
and pale.

The granary weevil and the rice weevil
are similar in form and habits. Prima i il\
pests of whole grains, they attack caked
cereals such as spaghetti and macaroni.
Adults are about % inch long, brown to
chestnut brown, cylindrical, and hard-
shelled with a long slender snout. The
larvae are legless and pale, with dark
heads.

General feeders attack a wide variety

of foods, including grain and cereal

products, dried fruit, nuts, spices, drugs,

confections, dehydrated vegetables, dried
dog foods, fish foods, other animal food,
and dried and cured animal products.

The three most important species
found in the home are the confused flour
beetle, Tribolium confusum Duv., the
saw-toothed grain beetle, Oryzaephilus
surinamensis (Linn.), and the drugstore
beetle, Stegobium paniceum (Linn).

Confused flour beetle adults, about %
inch long, smooth, and reddish brown,
lay eggs in the product they infest.
Larvae are somewhat cylindrical, yellow-
ish brown, with a dark head and a pair
of slender, pointed growths at the tail
end. The pest is most commonly found
in cereal and cereal products, but may
infest most other stored food materials.

Adult saw-toothed grain beetles are
about % inch long, slender, flattened,
slightly roughened with a dull, hard, dark
brown shell and a row of sawlike tooth
projections along either side of the body
section behind head. Its diet includes
cereals and cereal products, nuts, dried
fruits, dried milk and certain animal
feeds.

The adult drugstore beetle is brown,
cylindrical, about yi0 inch long, and has
fairly long antennae or feelers. Its larvae
attack a wide assortment of materials,
including the coarser cereal products, pet
foods, drugs, and spices. Adults, which
fly readily, may also enter a home in old
furniture, rugs, bedding, or other prod-
ucts of plant or animal origin.

WHAT TO DO:

If the infestation is discovered before
the pest starts to migrate, or if the beetle
is one of the restricted feeders, you need
only to get rid of the infested product.
It is important to examine all exposed
foodstuffs and destroy them if there is
the slightest indication of an infestation.
(Material of great value may be fumi-
gated, subjected to heat or placed in a
deep freeze as described below.)

Thoroughly clean the shelves and floor
in the vicinity, and place all infestable

[28]

products in containers with tight-fitting
lids. For several weeks, purchase cereals,
dried fruits, and similar products in
small quantities which can be quickly
consumed.

Other methods of control include:

1. Cooling and heating. Both cold and
heat will control pests. Insect activity
ceases at temperatures of 40° to 50° F.
Two or three days of exposure at 40° F
will kill most food insects which attack
stored products, and the most resistant
are killed within three weeks if placed in
a deep freeze.

All stages of insect life in stored prod-
ucts can be killed by exposure to temper-
atures of 120° to 130° F for two hours.
However, the insect itself must be sub-
jected to the heat for the required time,
so make certain that the proper temper-
ature is reached and maintained at the
center of the treated products. To insure
rapid heat penetration, spread the ma-
terial in as thin a layer as possible and
stir from time to time.

Small quantities can be sterilized in an
oven; in many cases the desired tempera-
ture can be obtained by merely turning
up the pilot light in a gas oven, though
a longer exposure may be necessary to
gain the necessary penetration of heat.
A temperature of 180° F will cause a
rapid kill.

Insects infesting dried fruits can be
killed by dropping the fruit in boiling
water for about a minute. Spread the
fruit to dry before storing.

2. Contact sprays need not be used
against these pests unless there has been
serious infestation. DO NOT use DDT
sprays or those containing lindane, chlor-
dane, dieldrin or malathion; they have a
residual action and should never be used
on food, around food preparation areas,
or on food utensils.

Pyrethrum sprays or those containing
malathion can be used to treat bins or
bulk-food containers, as they have no
marked residual qualities and kill only
those insects contacted. Clean the storage

area thoroughly before spraying and
allow the units to dry and air out before
restoring foodstuffs.

Contact sprays are best applied with
a power sprayer, although excellent re-
sults can be obtained with hand sprayers.
DO NOT spray near fires or flames of
any kind; see other precautions on page
6. Aerosol household bombs designed
for wetting the treated surface can also
be used; where these contain DDT, diel-
drin, chlordane or related materials, ob-
serve the precautions given for residual
sprays.

3. Contact Dusts. To control migrating
beetles dust food storage areas with sorp-
tive dust (page 5) at the same dosage
rate and in the same manner as suggested
for controlling cockroaches with this
compound. As a rule, drawers, inside
cupboards, etc., are all that need be
dusted. The dust probably may be left
indefinitely in most places where it has
been applied, but should be covered with
a single sheet of shelf paper. Let dust re-
main for at least 24 hours before re-
moving it.

4. Fumigation for the control of pantry
insects is seldom necessary, unless rela-
tively large amounts of food are stored
and become infested.

The most satisfactory fumigant for
household use is a mixture of 3 parts by
volume of ethylene dichloride and 1 part
carbon tetrachloride. This colorless, non-
inflammable liquid is available to a
limited extent under several trade names
as well as under its chemical name. More
readily available — and nearly as good —
is carbon tetrachloride.

Place the products to be fumigated in
a container as airtight as possible, such
as a new garbage can. Pour fumigant
into a shallow pan on top of the product
to be treated, place the lid on the can
inmmediately, and seal with tape. Follow-
ing fumigation, pour remaining fumi-
gant into the original container.

The amount of fumigant used depends
on the size of the can or fumigation

[29]

chamber; use at a rate of V2 ounce per
cubic foot. This will be about % cup for
a medium-sized garbage can.

Fumigation should be conducted at a
temperature of 70° F or higher; after
an exposure of 24 to 36 hours, remove
the product, air it, and place it in tight
containers. Air particularly well treated
foods of high protein content or of me-
dium to high fat content, such as nuts,
beans, rice polishings, wheat germ, and
soybeans.

Store unused fumigant in a cool, dry
place out of reach of children.

Fumigation by dry ice (solid carbon
dioxide) can be used to treat and pre-
serve walnut and other nut meats.

CAUTION: Do not handle dry ice
with bare hands — it will freeze the skin
quickly.

Do not seal the jars until all dry ice
has disappeared.

One cubic inch of dry ice will make
12 to 14 quarts of carbon dioxide gas.
If you sealed a quart jar full of walnut
kernels with a cubic inch of dry ice in-
side, you would have a bomb with be-
tween 200 and 250 pounds pressure per
square inch when the dry ice turned to
gas. Of course, the jar would explode.

To fumigate by dry ice:

Crack out the walnut kernels. Be sure
they are fully dried; the drier they are
the better their quality after storage.

Put a single layer of kernels in the
bottom of the jars.

Cut 1-inch cubes of dry ice; a common
wood saw can be used. A 5-pound dry
ice slab, 10" x 10" x 1", will make 100
pieces.

Put a dry ice cube on the layer of wal-
nuts a short distance from the side of the
jar, and where you can see it after jar is
filled. (Jars may crack if the dry ice is
against the glass.)

Fill with kernels. A quart jar will hold
12 to 14 ounces.

Put on the lids and screw them down
until they begin to tighten, then turn
them back until slightly loose. Lids must

be loose to allow the air and excess gas
to escape. Remember that bomb! !

Allow jars to stand undisturbed until
all dry ice is gone.

Screw lids down tightly.

Store in as cool a place as possible.

That's all there is to it. Use about x/2
cubic inch of dry ice for pint jars, 1
cubic inch for 1-quart jars, 2 cubic inches
for 2-quart jars.

Various sizes of air-tight tin cans can
be used. Fill and put in dry ice as for
jars. Use 1 cubic inch of dry ice for each
quart capacity. Punch a yiQ inch hole
in the lid. Put in the dry ice. Fill with
kernels and seal the lid in place. After
an hour or so, put a drop of water over
the hole. If gas is still coming out.
bubbles will show. When bubbling stops,
seal the hole with tape.

This method of using dry ice is also
suitable for preserving other types of
stored products.

To prevent future pantry beetle infesta-
tions:

Do not leave food in open containers
on shelves; place them in containers with
tight-fitting lids, or destroy them.

Clean, and keep clean, shelves and bins
and all other locations where food ma-
terials could accumulate, even in small
amounts.

Do not mix old and new food materials.
Infested old material may quickly infest
the new.

Clean old containers before filling
them with fresh materials.

Do not purchase broken or damaged
packages of food materials, as they may
be infested.

Construct storage units so that they
are tight and can be cleaned easily.

Store bulk materials, such as pet foods,
in containers with tight-fitting lids.

Keep storage units dry. THIS IS IM-
PORTANT. Moisture favors the develop-
ment of pantry pests; dryness discour-
ages them.

Many pantry insects breed in rodent
and insect nests and may migrate from

[30

these into homes. Dumps and areas where
by-products and wastes from processing
plants are deposited afford excellent
breeding places.

Opened food products which are set
aside and forgotten are almost certain to
become infested. Once the product has
been wholly or partially consumed, the
insects disperse and — if general feed-
ers— may soon infest every suitable ma-
terial in the house.

Most home infestations result from
introduction of some infested product.
Most food product packages are rela-
tively insect-tight and, unless the prod-
ucts were infested when originally
packed, they should remain free of pests.

PREDACEOUS
AND DARKLING
GROUND
BEETLES i*/

Size, adult:

Predaceous Ground Beetle,
Platynus maculicollis (Dej.)

Among the insects that live outdoors but
accidentally enter homes while seeking
places to spend inactive periods are the
predaceous ground beetles and the dark-
ling ground beetles. These do no harm
in the home although some species emit
a very offensive odor.

Predaceous ground beetles are somber
brown or black, medium-sized, move
rather rapidly, and feed on other insects.
One of the most troublesome of the
species is the tule beetle, which is about

% inch long, pale brown in color with a
large, dark blotch occupying much of
the wing covers. It breeds in the marsh
lands along rivers and often appears in
large swarms at dusk following rains in
the fall. It emits an offensive odor when
disturbed.

Darkling ground beetles are small,
hard-shelled, black, slow-moving beetles
which feed on living and decayed vege-
table matter.

Among insects which may be confused
with predaceous and darkling ground
beetles are wood-boring beetles which
emerge from holes in infested firewood.
These insects may congregate in large
numbers on windows, but will do no
harm.

Homes located under oak trees may be
invaded by tiny, grub-like weevil larvae
which develop inside acorns and drop
to the ground to pupate. If they land on
a roof, they may crawl into the dwelling.
Birds may cache infested acorns about a
house, and the grubs that emerge from
these may also be encountered.

WHAT TO DO:

If only a few insects are involved, kill
them with a fly swatter. Larger numbers
may be controlled with contact sprays or
dusts by treating infested areas. Contact
spray solutions are inflammable; see
page 6 for precautions.

To prevent entry of the beetles, seal all
openings and crevices in the outer walls
of the house, particularly the cracks be-
tween doors and door jambs. Make sure
screens are tight. Eliminate all rubbish
and other accumulations about the foun-
dation.

Keep the outside of the house dry and
prevent shrubbery from growing over
windows or other openings.

Do not confuse the relatively harmless
beetles with the damaging carpet beetles
and pantry beetles which may "swarm"
in various parts of the house. Control
methods for these different types of
beetles are not the same.

[31]

PSOCIDS

\-\ Body .size, adult
Cereal Psocid, Liposcelis divinitorius (Mull.)

Psocids (booklice) are minute, soft-
bodied, flattened insects. Those found in
the house are wingless and light to dark
in color. Usually they are not harmful,
but become annoying when in large num-
bers. You may recognize them by their
jerky manner of running.

Warmth and dampness favor psocids,
and they are most likely to be found in
dark, damp rooms or among damp vege-
table products such as straw mattresses,
certain upholstered furniture, wallpaper,
and pantry supplies. Their food appears
to be mostly microscopic molds; they
may damage bookbindings and other
starchy materials.

WHAT TO DO:

Spray where psocids are found with a
5 per cent DDT or methoxychlor spray
or with a pyrethrin spray, alone or in
combination with one of the other insec-
ticides. DO NOT use such a spray near
flames of any kind; see page 6 for pre-
cautions. Aerosol household bombs de-
signed for wetting the surface treated are
also effective against the pest.

Dry out the areas where psocids are
found. See that the environment is well
ventilated and exposed to as much light
as possible.

Heating houses during periods of fa-
vorable temperature conditions in the
summer will help. Raise the temperature
to 125 degrees F and maintain it for at
least 12 hours.

Destroy infested materials if of little
value. Otherwise, thoroughly dry them,
or fumigate them in the manner de-
scribed on pages 4 and 5.

SCORPIONS

Size: 2 to 3 inches

Scorpion, Hadrurus hirsutus (Wood)

Scorpions are easily distinguished by
their crablike appearance and long,
fleshy, segmented tail ending in an en-
larged tip bearing a stinger. The stinger
is normally used to paralyze the insects
and spiders upon which the scorpions
feed.

The sting of most scorpions is quite
painful, but no more to be feared than
the sting of a wasp. Dangerously venom-
ous types of scorpions are not known to
occur in California.

Scorpions found in California meas-
ure from less than 1 inch to over 3 inches
in length. They usually move about at
night, hiding during the day under floors,
boards, and debris, or the bark of trees.

WHAT TO DO:

In the home treat baseboards, mold-
ings, under sinks, and around cracks and
corners. Outside the house treat founda-
tions, joists and subfloor supports of
buildings, as well as the ground under
the structures. Treat rough out-buildings,
such as privies and garages. Use spray
solutions or emulsions containing any of
the following: 5 per cent deodorized
malathion, 0.5 per cent lindane, or 0.5
per cent dieldrin. Dusts containing 1 per

[32

cent dieldrin or 1 per cent lindane are
effective. Clear creosote may also be
sprayed on outside structures with good
results.

Eliminate accumulations of debris,
stacks of lumber, or stored household
effects from basements or places adja-
cent to the house. These serve as hiding
places for the pest.

If you live in an area where scorpions
are abundant, shake clothing and inspect
shoes before dressing.

SILVERFISH AND
FIREBRATS

\ /

Size, adult:
I 1

Silverfish, Ctenolepisma
urbana Stabaugh

Size, adult:

I I

Firebrat, Ther-

mobia domestica

(Pack.)

Silverfish, Lepisma saccharina Linn., and
fire brat, Thermobia domestica (Pack.),
are long, wingless, scaly insects about
% inch in length. They are nocturnal,
fast runners recognizable by the pair of
long antennae on the head and 3 promi-
nent filaments protruding from the tail
end.

Silverfish, which are silvery-gray, pre-
fer warm, damp places, but may be found
in almost any part of a building. Fire-
brats, which are mottled with dark spots,
usually stay in heated basements or sim-
ilar locations.

Both insects can live for long periods
without feeding. The silverfish eats

mostly vegetable matter, preferably of a
high starch or sugar content.

The insects become very destructive
under favorable conditions by feeding on
the sizing in paper, bookbindings, wall-
paper, or any other materials where glue
or starch are present. Fabrics of plant
origin are attacked in varying degrees.
Thin starched materials, linen, and rayon
goods may be seriously damaged, and
lisle and cotton fabrics are also fed upon.
Clean fabrics of animal origin are usually
avoided.

WHAT TO DO:

Apply a 5 per cent solution of DDT in
highly refined kerosene or a household
solution containing chlordane, dieldrin,
DDT, methoxychlor, lindane, malathion,
pyrethrins or combinations of these
materials as a coarse spray, on infested
surfaces. These include the back walls
of shelvings, baseboards, closets, dead
spaces under sinks, and holes where pipes
pass through floors or walls. DO NOT
use spray near fires or flames of any
kind; see page 6 for other precautions.
Aerosol household bombs designed for
wetting the surface treated can also be
effectively used.

A sorptive dust (page 5) may be ap-
plied in place of the sprays at the rate of
1 pound per 1,000 square feet of floor
area. You can obtain good control by
dusting the attic and subfloor area or
basement. A 10 per cent DDT dust also
may be used for attic or basement treat-
ment.

To prevent breeding of the pests, dry
out the warm, damp, secluded locations
that foster their development.

CAUTION

Be sure to handle poisonous ma-
terial carefully. See page 6 for sug-
gestions that will help you to avoid
trouble.

[33]

SPRINGTAILS

Size, adult:

H

Springtail

Springtails are variably colored insects,
about y]G inch long. They get their
name from the fact that they jump when
disturbed. The adults of those found in-
doors are most likely to be bluish or gray-
ish.

Normally, springtails live out of doors
where their food consists largely of de-
caying organic materials, although ger-
minating seeds and roots of plants are
sometimes seriously attacked.

As household pests, springtails are lim-
ited to areas in the home that are moist,
such as the soil of potted plants, or in
locations into which moisture has pene-
trated. Dense vegetation, or vines, grow-
ing near or against a house may create
an environment favorable for the pest to
enter it, particularly if these conditions
exist about windows or other openings.
Springtails are most likely to enter a
home during the damp cool portions of
the year.

WHAT TO DO:

Maintaining dryness in a home is the
best means of keeping out springtails.
Repair water leaks, and prune vines and
shrubs covering windows, doors, porches
and similar places.

Springtails can be killed with contact
sprays, and those containing dieldrin, lin-
dane, chlordane or pyrethrins are espe-
cially effective. Treating around founda-
tions will discourage springtails from
entering the house.

SOWBUGS AND
PILLBUGS ,^^n

Size: |
Shown: pillbug in retracted and extended positions

Pillbug, Armadillidium vulgare (Lat.)

These organisms are dark or slate in
color with flattened, segmented bodies
and 7 pairs of legs. They breathe by
means of gills, and will die if removed
from moist conditions. Therefore, they
live in damp earth and leaf mold, and
rapidly disappear during hot weather if
their habitat thoroughly dries out.

Although sowbugs and pillbugs will
feed on a wide range of materials, their
diet consists chiefly of decaying vege-
table matter. They will occasionally at-
tack living vegetation and are particu-
larly injurious to seedlings.

They sometimes become household
pests when they congregate in large num-
bers in a moist basement.

WHAT TO DO:

Apply a contact insecticide containing
dieldrin, chlordane, lindane, malathion,
or a combination of some of these, di-
rectly on the pests and on areas they
frequent. Seal all cracks and openings,
especially around windows and doors,
through which they may enter the house.
Contact sprays are inflammable; see page
6 for precautions.

Remove rubbish and other accumula-
tions about the foundations. Prevent
shrubbery from growing over windows
and other openings. Keep the outside of
the house dry.

[34]

SPIDERS

Body size, adult female:

I 1

Black Widow Spider, Latrodectus mactans

(Fabr.)

Spiders may be distinguished easily from
insects in that they have four pairs
of legs instead of three and do not have
antennae or feelers. The only spider in
California dangerously poisonous to man
is the black widow, Latrodectus mactans
(Fabr.) Bites from other spiders are not
uncommon, but the effects are localized
and rarely as severe as a bee sting. Most
spiders found around the house do more
good than harm by killing insects.

The adult female black widow, some-
times called the shoe-button spider, has
a rounded, glossy black body; there is
usually an orange or red marking re-
sembling an hourglass on the underside
of the body. The shape of the mark is
not constant, however, and some spiders
may have more than one mark. With
legs extended, the female measures up
to 2 inches in length. The male is much
smaller and has stripes of white and pale
brown along the sides of the abdomen.

The loose irregular web constructed
by the black widow is found in protected,
dark corners in homes, garages, base-
ments, under eaves and around out-
houses, and under piles of wood or rub-
bish. Its silken strands are quite coarse
in comparison with those of other house
spiders.

The Pholcus spider, encountered in
basements, closets, and other dark places,
spins irregular, loose webs which are

often mistaken for those of the black
widow. However, the web is of much
finer silk. This spider has an elongate
body with very long legs, and has a habit
of violently shaking its web.

Trapdoor spiders are rather large and
are often mistaken for young tarantulas.
They build tunnels in the ground and
cap them with lids of soil and silk. They
are often found wandering in homes fol-
lowing the start of the rainy season.

The spiders commonly called tarantu-
las in California are found most abun-
dantly in the southern part of the state.
Large, hairy, ferocious-looking, but prac-
tically harmless to man, they are only
accidental visitors in a house.

Also harmless are spiders of the orb
weaver group, which spin symmetrical
rounded webs in gardens. Many other
innocuous species of spiders invade
houses, but normally can be controlled
by good housekeeping methods. In the
case of unusual infestations, the follow-
ing control methods suggested for the
black widow may be used.

WHAT TO DO:

For black widow spiders, treat garages,
basements, attics, and outhouses with a
residual spray of lindane or dieldrin. Wet
the walls and webbing with spray along
beams, in cracks and corners, and under
shelves or similar protected sites which
are most frequented by the spiders.
Spray solutions in oil are inflammable;
see page 6 for precautions.

The spray will kill spiders contacted
and will continue up to several months
to kill spiders visiting the treated sur-
faces. The following spray formulations
are effective:

0.2 to 0.5 per cent lindane, 0.5 per
cent dieldrin, or 2 to 3 per cent chlor-
dane. Five per cent malathion spray may
be used as a spot treatment. If vegetation
is to be treated, sprays should be pre-
pared as suspensions from wettable pow-
ders in accordance with instructions
given on the commercial labels.

[35]

Creosote has also been used success-
fully on the wood of outhouses to kill
spiders and repel future invaders.

To prevent entry of spiders, tightly
screen doors, windows, and other open-
ings of the house from basement to attic.
Destroy weeds, rubbish, and dead grass
in the yard, and clear away rocks, tin
cans, and other debris which might pro-
vide shelter.

CONE-NOSED BUGS

Size, adult:

Size, adult:

Triatoma

Western Spotted Corsair,
Rasahus thoracicus Stal.

Triatoma bugs (known also as China
bedbugs, cone-nose bugs, or kissing
bugs) live exclusively on the blood of
animals, including man. They frequently
attack humans at night. Some people are
sensitive to their bites, and may experi-
ence intense itching, nausea, flushed face,
palpitation of the heart, rapid breathing
and pulse, and hives.

The adult bugs vary from very light to
dark brown and are from % to 1%
inches long. They have a long, narrow
head with a slender, piercing beak which
is bent beneath the head when not in use.
The wings are folded back over the body
and overlap at their tips, leaving a tri-
angular area between the bases. The im-
mature bugs do not have wings and are
considerably smaller.

The pests live in the nests of wood rats
(Neotoma, pack rats, etc.), but also in-
vade the beds of human beings. In Cali-
fornia they sometimes are found flying to
lights, and at such times they may fly
into houses. Residents of foothill areas of
central and southern California are most
often troubled by these pests.

These bugs have been found naturally
infested with the microscopic parasite
causing Chagas disease in man, but no
human cases have been reported to date
in California.

A rather similar appearing insect in-
cluded with the cone-nosed bugs is the
western spotted corsair, Rasahus thora-
cicus Stal. Its feeding habits are quite
different from the Triatoma bugs, how-
ever, as it feeds on other insects. It is
frequently attracted to lights in warm
areas of California and, if picked up or
handled carelessly by man may inflict a
painful bite; the effects of the bite are
at least as severe as those of a bee sting.

WHAT TO DO:

Spray directly with a standard fl
spray or an aerosol bomb to kill insect
present.

Residual lindane sprays prepared at
described for fly control (pages 22, 23)
will provide several months' protection
when applied to interior walls and floors.
The material is safe to use, though the
slight, lingering odor is offensive to some
persons.

There is no specific treatment for the
bite of these bugs. Warm compresses of
magnesium sulfate applied to the bite
are recommended. If the symptoms are
severe, call a doctor.

To prevent invasions by Triatoma
bugs, screen your house and make it
insect-proof. Remove wood rat nests from
around dwellings, especially from under-
neath them. Wood rats often nest in piles
of cactus pads or mesquite in desert re-
gions, or in piles of sticks in forested
areas.

[36

TROPICAL RAT
MITES

Size: less than 0.5 mm

Tropical Rat Mite, Ornithomjssus bacoti

(Hirst)

The tropical rat mite, Ornithonyssus ba-
coti (Hirst), is most frequently encoun-
tered in California homes after the rat
on which it lived has left the premises or
died. The hungry mites may swarm over
the walls and furniture seeking a blood
meal. Only %00 inch long, they can be
best seen after feeding, when their nor-
mal gray-brown color is overshadowed
by the red of ingested blood in their
swollen bodies. Their bites cause an
nflammation of the skin, known as "rat-
>ite dermatitis," and are usually accom-
panied by intense itching. There may be
/atery blisters or a slight to moderate
swelling.

In children particularly, the effects of
the bites are noticeable, and scratching
creates the danger of subsequent bac-
terial infection. The mite may transmit
endemic typhus to man.

WHAT TO DO:

Eliminate rats from the house. How-
ever, even then tropical rat mites may be
a problem.

Treat attics, sub-floor areas, cracks,
crevices, furnace vents, baseboards, bed-
frames, mattresses, etc. with a sorptive
dust (page 5) at the rate of % to 1 pound
per 1,000 square feet of floor area. In
attics and sub-floor areas apply the dust
with an electric duster, or large hand
or rotary duster; inside living areas,
dust may be applied with a hand duster.

In conspicuous areas, the dust should be
left for at least 24 hours, before remov-
ing. In inconspicuous places the dust
should be left indefinitely.

Other useful control measures include
spraying infested areas thoroughly with
highly refined kerosene containing leth-
ane. A thorough spraying with refined
kerosene alone will kill those mites con-
tacted, as will wiping furniture with a
rag soaked in refined kerosene. Such use
of kerosene constitutes a fire hazard; see
page 6 for precautions.

Various other commercial household
spray preparations, such as 0.5 per cent
lindane or a pyrethrum solution in re-
fined kerosene, are effective. Spot treat-
ment with 2 per cent malathion spray
is also recommended.

BIRD MITES AND
CHICKEN TICKS

Size: less than 0.5 mm

4 *

Shown: half -drawings of top and undersides

Tropical Fowl Mite, Ornithonyssus sylviarum

Can. & Fanzago

The tropical fowl mite, Ornithonyssus
sylviarum (Can. and Fanzago), and the
common poultry mite, Dermanyssus gal-
linae (DeGeer) are common parasites of
poultry in California. The former pest is
also common in nests of wild birds, and
when nests are built against homes the
mite inhabitants occasionally wander into
the houses, especially after the nestlings
have left. Furniture, patios, bamboo
shades, etc. often become infested with
the mites.

[37

WHAT TO DO:

Only a specialist can distinguish these
mites from the tropical rat mite, and
while the insecticides used against the
latter pest will also kill bird mites, re-
moval or treatment of the source of in-
festation is very different. Bird nests
should be removed from under eaves or
other places of contact with the house,
preferably after the young have been
reared, and the infested areas sprayed
with insecticide. Two per cent malathion
spray will give rapid control, but the
other insecticides listed for tropical rat
mite control are also effective here.

If bird nests are considered desirable
from an aesthetic viewpoint they may be
dusted with a 4 per cent deodorized mal-
athion dust without harming the birds.
A sorptive dust (page 5) may be used
similarly, both on nests and on other
infested areas.

Chicken ticks, Argas persicus (Oken),
are associated with poultry and, occa-
sionally, wild birds. They are flattened,
leathery and rounded pests measuring up
to % inch long. They feed only on blood
but are able to survive for several months
without feeding, hiding in cracks in the
housing, under bark of trees or in simi-
lar sites; if found in a home, the source
will usually be found to be roosting or
nesting birds. Removal of birds and
treatment of the sites with 2 to 5 per
cent malathion spray will control the
pest. A deodorized spray of 1.5 to 2 per
cent may be applied to cracks in walls,
floors or on other protected places where
ticks may be hiding.

WASPS AND
YELLOW JACKETS

There are several kinds of wasps that at
times are very annoying to man : yellow
jackets or hornets, such as the Vespula
species, Polistes wasps, and mud-dauber

Mud Dauber Wasp

Body size

Yellow Jacket, Vespula pennsylvanica

(Saussure)

or thread-waisted wasps such as Sphex
and Pelopaeus species.

Apart from what annoyance they cause
and what fruit they may eat, yellow
jackets are beneficial because they de-
stroy enormous numbers of insects. They
construct large paper nests from fibers;
some yellow jackets build nests above
the ground, others construct them in the
soil. Control measures described below
vary according to the location of the
nest.

Yellow jacket nests are started in the
spring by the queen which is the only
individual to survive the winter; workers
take over the building and feeding duties
and the nest rapidly increases in size.
After new queens and males are produced
and leave the nest, in the summer and
fall, the old queen dies and the nest de-
clines.

Workers left in nests built above

38

ground always die before the advent of
cold weather, and the nests are often de-
serted by mid-summer; those that nest
in the soil may live on into the winter.
This is a factor to be remembered in
choosing control measures.

Adult yellow jackets feed only on liq-
uids, principally energy-yielding foods
such as nectar, honeydew, juice (and
pulp) of ripe fruit, and manufactured
sweets. The larvae are fed animal mate-
rials which are first chewed and condi-
tioned by the workers.

Polistes wasps normally do not attack
man. Their life history and habits are
very similar to those of yellow jackets,
* except that their colonies are much
smaller and their open-faced, paper nests
are not enclosed in envelopes.

Mud-dauber or thread-waisted wasps,
which construct individual nests of mud,
are solitary wasps that seldom attack man
and can be distinguished from other
wasps by the long narrow waist between
the thorax and abdomen.

WHAT TO DO:

For yellow jackets which build their
nests above the ground no control meas-
ures are necessary after mid-summer or
shortly thereafter.

If the nuisance occurs before then,
spray the entrance to the nest with a
contact spray such as 2.5 per cent chlor-
dane, 0.5 per cent dieldrin, 5 per cent
DDT solution, or one that contains lin-
dane, DDD, methoxychlor, malathion,
pyrethrins or a combination of some of
these materials. Such sprays are inflam-
mable; see page 6 for precautions.
Aerosol bombs containing these mate-
rials can also be utilized. To reduce the
danger of being stung, spray in the eve-
ning or early morning when most of
v the wasps are in the nest ; direct the spray
toward the opening of the nest. Any early
morning wasps that fly out will be in-

capacitated as soon as they strike the
droplets. The nest readily absorbs spray,
so apply enough material to thoroughly
wet it. It can be removed the following
day.

Effective control can also be obtained
by thoroughly dusting the entrance to
the nest with 5 per cent chlordane, or
10 per cent DDT dust, or one that con-
tains dieldrin or lindane.

Yellow jacket nests found in the soil
should be treated at night by pouring 1
to several ounces of carbon disulfide into
the entrance and covering with several
shovelfuls of soil. Carbon disulfide is
very inflammable and explosive when
mixed with air. Keep it away from flames
and sparks of all kinds, and use with
great caution. DO NOT store it in the
house.

Dieldrin or chlordane solutions are
also very effective when poured into the
nests.

A 10 per cent DDT dust, or one con-
taining chlordane, dieldrin or lindane,
is also effective against ground nests.
Apply the dust after dark with a small
hand duster. Approach the nest cau-
tiously, but get close enough to direct the
dust into the opening.

Polistes wasps are easily controlled
by spraying the nest after dark with a
good contact insecticide, or by dusting
it with a 10 per cent DDT dust. If found
hibernating in the house, kill wasps with
a flyswatter; they can also be killed by
spraying the locations they frequent with
a 5 per cent DDT solution. DO NOT
use such a spray near flames of any
kind; see page 6 for other precautions.

Because there is only a single adult
wasp to contend with in controlling the
mud-dauber or thread-waisted wasp, kill
it with a flyswatter or a contact spray
and destroy the nest. In winter destroy
the mud nests to eliminate the overwin-
tering forms.

[39]

INDEX of the pests discussed in this circular

INSECT

American cockroach

16

Ants

7

Argentine

7

California fire

7

California velvety tree 7

Carpenter 7

Odorous house 7

Pavement 7

Pharaoh's 7

Pyramid 7

Tiny black 7

Western thief 7

Australian cockroach 16

Bean weevil 28

Bedbug 8

Beetles

Bean weevil 28

Carpet 10

Confused flour 28

Darkling ground 31

Drugstore 28

Elm leaf 8

Granary weevil 28

Pantry 27

Predaceous ground 31

Saw-toothed grain 28

Tule 31

Wood-boring 31

Bird mites 37

Bird-nest carpet beetle 11

Black blowflies 22

Black carpet beetle 11

Black widow spider 35

Blowflies 22

Bluebottles 22

Body louse 24

Book lice (psocids) 32

Box elder bug 8

Brown dog tick 9

Brown-banded cockroach 16

California camel cricket 10

California fire ant 7

California velvety tree ant 7

Carpenter ants 7

Carpet beetles 10

Bird-nest 11

Black 11

Varied 11

Casemaking clothes moth 14

Centipedes 13

Cereal mites 14

Chicken ticks 37

China bedbugs 36

Clothes moths 14

Casemaking 14

Webbing 14

Clover mite 15

Cockroaches 16

American 16

INSECT

Australian
Brown-banded
German
Oriental
Cone-nosed bugs
Confused flour beetle
Cooties

Corizid grass bug 8

Crab louse 24

Crickets 19

Darkling ground beetles 31

Drugstore beetle 28

Elm leaf beetle 8

False stable fly 22

Field cricket 19

Firebrats 33

Fleas 19

Fleshflies 22

Flies 21

Blowflies 22

False stable 22

Fleshflies 22

Houseflies 21

Latrine 22

Stable fly 21

Vinegar 22

Flour moths 23

German cockroach 16

Granary weevils 28

Greenbottles 22

Head louse 24

House centipedes 13

Houseflies 21

Human flea 20

Indian meal moth 23

Kissing bugs 36

Latrine fly 22

Lesser housefly 21

Lice 24

Body 24

Book 32

Crab 24

Head 24

Pubic 24

Meal moths 23

Mediterranean flour moth 23

Millipedes 25

Mites

Bird 37

Cereal 14

Clover 15

Tropical fowl 37

Tropical rat 37

Mosquitoes 26
Moths

Clothes 14

Flour 23

Meal 23

Mud-dauber wasps 38

lGE

INSECT

PAGE

16

Odorous house ant

7

16

Orb weaver spiders

35

16

Oriental cockroach

16

16

Pantry beetles

27

36

Bean weevil

28

28

Confused flour beetle

28

24

Drugstore beetle

28

Granary weevil 28

Rice weevil 28 <

Saw-toothed grain beetle 28

Pavement ant 7

Pharoah's ant 7

Pholcus spiders 35

Pillbugs 34

Polistes wasps 38

Predaceous ground beetles 31

Psocids 32 <

Pubic louse 24

Pyramid ants 7

Rice weevil 28

Sarcophagids 22

Saw-toothed grain beetle 28

Scorpions 32

Shoe-button spider 35

Silverfish 33 i

Sow bugs 34

Spiders 35

Black widow 35

Orb weaver 35

Pholcus 35

Shoe-button 35

Tarantula 35

Trapdoor 35

Springtails 34

Stable fly 21 -

Tarantulas 35

Thread-waisted wasps 38

Ticks

Brown dog 9

Chicken 37

Wood 9

Tiny black ant 7

Trapdoor spiders 35

Triatoma bugs 36

Tropical rat mite 37

Tule beetle 31

Varied carpet beetle 11

Vinegar flies 22

Wasps 38

Mud-dauber 38

Polistes 38 *

Thread-waisted 38

Yellow jackets 38

Webbing clothes moth 14

Western thief ant 7

Wood ticks 9

Wood-boring beetles 31

Yellow jackets 38

Co-operative Extension work in Agriculture and Home Economics, College of Agriculture, University of California, and United States Department of Agriculture
co-operating. Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8, and June 30, 1914. George B. Alcorn, Director, California Agricultural Extension Service.

40m-4,'61(B4267)JF

TOO MANY INSECTS .
NOT ENOUGH
INSECT-FIGHTERS

• •

£%

if

Students and instructor watch spray
demonstration on Oxford Tract, Berkeley

%

ALL THE LAND ANIAAALb on
the face of the earth— man in-
cluded—don't weigh as much
as the earth's insects. In
America alone they cause
$4,000,000,000 worth of dam-
age each year. California
with more than 200 kinds
crops, spends more on in
control than any other state

nia,
sect

fciNTOMOLOGY provides the weapons man needs for

dealing with his insect enemies as well as the knowledge

he needs to help his insect friends — the honeybee, for

example. The war against insects never ceases. It will increase in importance as world

population and the need for food and fiber increase.

THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA'S Department of Entomology and Para-
sitology— in Berkeley and at Davis — is recognized as a leading world center of ento-
mological training. Many of the teaching staff are outstanding authorities in their fields.
Thirty-one undergraduate and graduate courses offer the widest basic and advanced
training available on the Pacific Coast.

FOR INFORMATION on courses, fees, requirements, write to:

Deportment of Entomology and
112 Agriculture Hall
University of California
Berkeley 4, California