Ha) i eee " 2m, cansae “Eo, CORAL AND ATOLLS Ss ORGE CLUNIES ROS 7 vi I ATE G EL 22] eo saa 1b 7 oz. caRDEP Invert. Z00| CORAL AND ATOLLS A HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF THE KEELING-COCOS ISLANDS, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THEIR FAUNA AND FLORA, AND A DISCUSSION OF THE METHOD OF DEVELOPMENT AND TRANSFORMATION OF CORAL STRUCTURES IN GENER AUG 4998 Pht aN Bg BY ¢ ; F. WOOD-JONES, D.Sc., F,Z,S., EVCs! KE-ISSUE LONDON: LOVELL REEVE & CO., LTD. Publishers to the Home, Colontal, and indian Governments 6 HENRIETTA STREET, COVENT GARDEN 1912 oY Iw rite Mal. Lav. TO THE LATE GEORGE CLUNIES-ROSS PREFACE For fifteen months I dwelt in Cocos-Keeling atoll. The charm of so remote a spot, the romance of its story and of its proprietor, and the fact that it was Darwin’s atoll, were the reasons for my residence—its purpose was the medical care of the handful of men engaged in working the cable which breaks its journey from Australia to Africa upon the shores of the most northern islet of the group. —_- Upon this islet-—Pulu Tikus—I lived, tad shared its inconsiderable strip of coral land—some thousand yards in length—with fifteen Europeans, some twenty Chinese servants, three Malay boatmen, and two Hindoo clerks. The outlets for medical enthusiasm were therefore strictly limited, and much time was to hand for the study of the place and its ‘fauna, and for speculating upon the problem of how so tiny a speck of land came to be made in the midst of that great waste of ocean. I arrived early in June 1905, and lived upon Pulu Tikus until September 30, 1906. In January 1907 I returned, and, for a time, lived with the Governor at his home on Pulu Selma. During all these months I examined every portion of the atoll, became familiar with its living creatures, and made every endeavour to appreciate the life-processes of those most ‘misunderstood of architects—the reef-building corals. . Most of my days:-were passed in wading about the barrier flats, sailing or paddling a boat in the lagoon, or making excursions ‘to the other islands of the atoll ring. The beauty of the clear ‘water of the lagoon and the breaking surf of the barrier made these journeyings a perpetual delight, for the whole field-work Vii Vili PREFACE of a coral-island naturalist is done amidst a splendour of tropical sunshine and luxuriant vegetation. In all my doings I was aided and encouraged by the members of the Clunies-Ross family, and the kindly assistance of George Clunies-Ross—a man born with a true love of nature, trained by his life’s work to observe, and familiar with every creature that lives within the confines of his domain— was always ready for my guidance. To him, and to the members of his family, I am deeply indebted, not only for an intimate knowledge of many things not easily known to a stranger, but for a splendid hospitality and a true friendship. When, in 1907, 1 returned to the atoll and lived under his roof, I had the advantage of discussing with him those many details of coral-island biology which, though they may be guessed at, assumed, or scoffed at by a museum naturalist, are things familiar to a man whose long life of keen observation has been passed in their midst. ) The greater part of this account of the atoll was written during my residence in the islands, and this fact I mention for two reasons: first, as an apology for scant references to former papers on the same subject; and secondly, as a guarantee that the ideas put forward are those actually arising out of the study of the atoll, and not of its literature. A word must be said with regard to the native names employed in these pages. Throughout I have used those names to designate the islands, and the animals and plants that live upon them, which are in everyday use in the atoll; and for this I make no apology. I do not regret the fact that the names here used to distinguish the islands do not correspond with those on published charts. Did a stranger arrive in the atoll and ask his way of any one—native or European—to “Sczvola Islet” or “Workhouse Island,” he would certainly not arrive at his destination ; and the giving of such made-up names to pieces of land already possessing well- known native names has nothing to recommend it. The names that [ have employed are those in local and long-established PREFACE 1X use, and are those that every man, woman, and child about the atoll constantly employs. Again, with the animals and plants, a native name is altogether useless unless it is the local word employed to designate the species. It is vain to urge that a particular word is not the one employed by Malays in the Straits to distinguish a certain fish, and therefore is not good Malay ; for the stranger who is unacquainted with the word chuchut will glean no information about sharks in the atoll, though in Singapore he used an altogether different word. I have given native names for the Flora and Fauna of the group solely as a guide for any subsequent collector, and to him no names are helpful save those in actual local use. This I have done because in my own case I derived considerable help in the naming of species from the lists collected by Dr. C. W. Andrews in Christmas Island. Some details of the zoology of the islands I have already published, for the most part in the Proceedings of the Zoolo grea Society of London, and to this society I am indebted for permis- sion to republish much of the contents of chapters viii, 1x., and x. and of Appendix I. For the re-use of some figures I am also obliged to the Zoological Society, and for others to the editor of the Badminton Magazine. Notes on the Fauna of the islands were published in the pages of the London Hospital Gazette, and with the kind permission of the editor of that journal some of these notes are incorporated here. I owe a debt also to Mr. F. Hesse—general manager of the Eastern Extension Telegraph Channa te the officers of the company’s ships, and to the shore staff of the cable station, for the use of material, and in many cases for the kindest personal help. PREFACE TO RE-ISSUE Durine the short period that has elapsed since the appearance of the first issue of this book some contributions have been ‘made to our knowledge of submarine conditions which have a very direct bearing upon the debated question of the bathymetrical limit of the reef-building corals. Firstly, the “Michael Sars” North Atlantic deep-sea expedition has determined that light-exerts a great influence on the Helland Hansen photometer at depths of 100 metres, and some in- fluence even at 1000 metres; in the clear waters of tropical oceans this distance would almost certainly be greatly ex- ceeded, so that it is safe to assume that some light asserts its influence very far below the limit at which reef-building corals live. Secondly, a discussion which took place in the columns of Nature towards the end of 1910 produced the very welcome contribution of Mr. A. R. Hunt, who so long ago as 1882 had conducted researches regarding the Limiting Line of Sedimen- tation in wave-stirred areas, and determined the laws which govern its presence. Both these contributions afford valuable additions to the subject-matter of chapter xxi. and furnish pe: real support for the conclusions arrived at. CONTENTS PREFACE PreFaAceE To RE-IssuE INTRODUCTION PART I. THE HISTORY OF THE ATOLL > I. Tue Discovery aNp Earty History or THE IsLaNps II. Tse Ortiein oF THe Crunies-Ross Famity III. 1825-1854. IV. Tue History or THE ATOLL, 1854-1871 ‘V. HutsTtory or THE ATOLL FROM 1871 Native Customs PART II. THE CORALS AND THE CORAL | PROBLEM | VII. Tue Earty Staces or THE Lire-History oF THE Corats _ VIII. Tur Growrn or THE CoraLt CoLony IX. Tue Lire-Processes or tHE Corat CoLony X. Tue Processes or Deatu IN THE Cora CoLony PART III. THE ATOLL AND ITS PROBLEMS XI. Tue Arott as a WHoLE ~ XII. Tse Supmarine Bank oN wHICcH THE AToLL Rests ~ xi 57 69 101 121 135 144 Xu CHAP. XIII. XIV. XV. XVI. XVII. XVIII. XIX. OS XXI, XXII. XXIII. XXIV. XXV. XXVI. XXVII. CONTENTS Tue STRUCTURE OF THE BARRIER Tue Istanp Bracues (A) Tue Seawarp Bracues (B) Tue Beacues or THE LaGoon SuHore Tue STRUCTURE OF THE ISLANDS Tue LaGoon Tue CLimaTe AND PrREvVALENT WINDS Tue TuHeories or ATotL AND REEF ForMATION PUT FoRWARD UNTIL THE PuUBLICAIION oF DaRwiN’s THEORY OF SUBSIDENCE. E Tue Tueories or ATott aND REEF FoRMATION PUT FoRWARD SINCE THE PuBLICATION OF DaRwin’s >? Turory—Tue Tuerory or “ SoLuTion’ Tue Tueortes or AToLL AND REEF ForMATION PUT ForRWARD SINCE 1880 Tue Meruop or DEVELOPMENT oF THE REEF Bank AND THE REEF DEVELOPMENT OF THE ATOLL - Tue Arrer-Historny or THE ATOLL Tue DrvyELOPMENT OF OTHER CoRAL STRUCTURES, AND THE INDICATIONS OF ALTERATION oF LaNnp-LEVEL PART IV. THE FLORA AND FAUNA OF THE GROUP Tue Metruops or Naturat CoLonisaTION SHIP-BORNE AND WIND-BORNE COLONISTS Tue Lirrorat anp Marine Fauna 212 232 278 286 302 314 CONTENTS APPENDIX I. LIST OF THE FAUNA MamMa.ia AVES ReptTivia . PiscEes Mo .tusca LEPIDOPTERA HYMENOPTERA DieTera CoLEOPTERA RuYNCHOTA NEUROPTERA OrTHOPTERA ARACHNIDA AND Myriavopa CRUSTACEA VERMES APPENDIX II. LIST OF THE FLORA DicoTyLEeDoNs MonocoTyLEDoNsS BIBLIOGRAPHY INDEX 384 ILLUSTRATIONS FACING PAGE Portrait of the late George Clunies-Ross Frontispiece Map showing the Position of Cocos-Keeling Atoll 1 PLATES PLATE I. Bungalow of the Telegraph Station on Pulu Tikus 44, II. A Colony growing as a Plate-like Growth (Montipora) 74 IL]. A Branching Growth approximating a Plate-like Form (Madrepora) 76 . Chart of the Southern Group of Cocos-Keeling Islands 138 V. The Barrier Flats and Seaward Beaches of Pulu Tikus at Low Tide 162 VI. Barrier Pools left by the Fall of the Tide, Pulu Tikus 166 VII. The Lagoon Shore of Pulu Tikus 172 VIII. A Typical View of the Vegetation of the Atoll 178 IX. Sand-piling of the Lagoon Side of the Island, Pu ’u Tikus 180 X. The Lagoon from the Western End of Pulu Tikus 186 XI. A Sunset in the Lagoon 200 XII. A Small Colony of Astreopora 250 XIII. A Fractured Surface of a Piece of Barrier-flat Breccia 254 XIV. The Island Rise, Sea Beaches and Barrier Flats, Sea- ward Side of Pulu Tikus 256 XV. The Raised Steps of Breccia Platform of Pulu Tikus 280 XVI. Krakatoa as it appears to-day 290 » XV xV1 ILLUSTRATIONS FACING PLATE PAGE XVII. Nest of Merula erythropleura 298 XVIII. The Smaller Frigate Bird (Fregata ariel) 300 XIX. The Nest and Eggs of the Philippine Land-rail 312 XX. The Ikan P’dang 322 XXI. Fauna of the Islands 346 XXII. Natives clearing away the Growth of Klenchi (Guielandina bundoc) 372 XXIII. The Spathe of the Coconut Palm 380 XXIV. The Flower Spike of the Coconut Palm 380 XXV. Young Nuts developing on the Flowering Stems when the Intertile Flowers have been shed 380 XXVI. Young Coconuts in stage klapa chinker 380 XXVII. Green Coconuts in stage klapa muda 380 IN THE TEXT FIG. PAGE 1. A Wedding Group in Cocos-Keeling 52 2. Fungia: Living specimen 58 3. Fungia ; Same Specimen Dead and Dried 58 4. Montipora Colony, Living 60 5. Montipora Colony, Dead and Dried 61 6. A Section through a Portion of an Alcyonarian Coral to show the Relations of the Zooid to its Skeleton 62 7. Larval Forms of Corals: Condition shortly after Extrusion 65 8. Larval Forms of Corals . 865 9. Two Young Growths of Seriatopora that have started their Colonies upon a Living Oyster 66 10. A Section through a Commencing Colony of Cenopsammia nigrescens 67 11. A Growth of Porites 73 ILLUSTRATIONS . Example of a Coral Colony growing as an Encrusting Layer 3. Example of a Colony growing as a Tree-like Growth . Example of an Amorphous Type of Growth . Vegetative Reproduction in Corals . Vegetative Reproduction in Corals . Vegetative Reproduction in Corals . Vegetative Reproduction in Corals . Vegetative Reproduction in Corals Vegetative Reproduction in Corals . Vegetative Reproduction in Corals Colony of Cenopsammia Willey: growing from the Lower Surface of a Boulder . Types of Growth of Montipora . Types of Growth of Madrepora . Types of Growth of Pocillopora . A Colony of Pocillopora . Rough-water Type of Highly Branched Madrepora . Upper Surface (A) and Lower Surface (B) of a Partial Plate Growth . Diagram of Type of Growth of Madrepora when living in water free of sediment (M. pulchra) Diagram of Growth of Madrepora pulchra when living in a habitat exposed to the action of sediment . Colourless Stylopora Colony from Deep Water (8-12 fathoms) . Colony of Poczllopora . The Influence of Environment on Coral Growth . Millepora Colony of the Type named complanata . Millepora Colony of the Type named alcicornis . Young Porites Mass grown equally round a Central Nucleus . Older Porites Colony in which the Lower Zooids are killed by Pressure b “I m5 Jj 4 = = I qa oo 107 XVill ILLUSTRATIONS FIG. PAGE 38, Adult Colony of Porites in which the Upper Zooids are killed by Sediment 108 39. A Small Colony of Agaricia 109 40. Type of Repair of Madrepora when the “ Dominant Apical Zooid”’ is not destroyed 1s 41. Type of Repair of Madrepora when the “ Dominant Apical Zooid”’ is entirely destroyed 113 42. Montipora Colony repairing a Branching Growth by an Encrusting Layer 117 3. Colony partly killed by Deposition of Sediment 119 44, Colony showing Death by Sediment overtaking it from below 126) 9 45. Specimen showing the Tunnelling of a Living Coral Colony by Boring Parasites 127 46. The “ Stings” caused by Contact with a Colony of Millepora alcicornis | 132 47. The Lagoonlet of Pulu Luar at High Tide 140 48. Chart of Keeling Atollon 142 49, Section of the Island and Barrier according to Darwin 152 50. Transverse Section of the Submarine Ridge and the Cocos- Keeling Atoll 152 51. Section of the Atoll and Submarine Slopes according to Dr. H. B. Guppy 152 52. Theoretical Section to show : i. The Breccia Platform (black) ; ii. The Island Pile of Coral Fragments and Sand 153 53. Theoretical Section of Funafuti Atoll 153 54, Living Specimen of an Aleyonarian Coral 161 55. The Ikan Kakatua Ijou (Scarus) 165 56. Holothurians feeding at the Bottom of a Barrier Pool 166 57. Western End of Pulau Tikus 174 58. Diagram to Show the Prevalent Winds of the Atoll 203 59. Illustration used by Darwin to make clear the Stages of ‘Subsidence ” in Atoll Formation 219 ILLUSTRATIONS LX FIG. PAGE 60. Photograph of a Coral Colony that has Living Zooids over its Entire Surface 240 61. Three Figures showing the Formation of a Crescent-shaped Island from some Original Obstruction to the Waves 258 62. Chart of the Cosos Atoll 260 63. Photograph of a Boulder of Alga-covered dead Coral Rock — 265 64. Diagram to illustrate the Development of Keeling Atoil, Stage I. . 272 65. Diagram to illustrate the Development of Keeling Atoll, Stage IT. Ble 66. Diagram to illustrate the Development of Keeling Atoll, Stage ITI. 274 67. Diagram to illustrate the Development of Keeling Atoll, Stage IV. 275 68. Diagram to illustrate the Development of Keeling Atoll, Stage V. 276 69. The Robber Crab Bl 70. Small Crab that holds in its Claws two small Bouquets of Living Algz 319 71. A Mixed Catch of Cocos-Keeling Fish 320 72. Landing a small Black and White Shark on the Seaward Beach of Pulu Tikus 321 73. A Baracouta taken on a Trolling Line in the Lagoon 323 74. The Ikan Pareh (Dicerobatis Eregoodoo) 324 75. The “Green Fish,” Ikan [jou (Pseudoscarus) 326 76. The Ikan Buntal (Tetrodon Patoca) 328 77. Egg of Gygis candida, laid on the Branch of a Grongang Tree 340 78. Gygis candida sitting on its Egg 341 79. Young Gygis candida, soon about to take its first flight 342 INTRODUCTION I HAVE endeavoured to give in these pages an account of a very restricted and very isolated piece of land. I have attempted to put on record as fully as possible its history, its physical conditions, and the state of its Flora and Fauna. There are many reasons why this work should be done, and why, to-day, a census should be taken of the forms of life which have found a footing upon this tiny speck of land surrounded by a vast waste of ocean. Before 1825 the isolation of the place was complete ; for the next eighty years it was scarcely broken; but to-day the intercourse with the greater world is on the increase, and with this freer intercourse comes change—change in many unlooked- for ways. _ Steamship routes open up new roads for animal cimigrants ; and nothing is more strange than the manner in which the balance of Nature may be upset in these isolated spots by the advent of what is apparently an inconsiderable addition to the Flora or Fauna. If any argument were needed for the utility of compiling uninteresting lists of the forms of life to be found upon the atoll, the story of Christmas Island would suffice. Were it not for the careful record of the Flora and Fauna of that island, made in 1897 by Dr. C. W. Andrews, a remarkable page in Nature’s story would be lost for ever. In the case of Cocos-Keeling it is fortunate that no less than three naturalists have left records of the state of the atoll over a fairly long period, and the accounts of Darwin, Forbes, and Guppy form invaluable landmarks. XXl XXIl INTRODUCTION The human story of the settlement is also ripe for chronicling, for much of the story of the Clunies-Ross family is forgotten, and my fortunate access to the journal of the Pioneer justifies the recording of this romantic story in its complete form. With regard to the atoll itself, and the problems with which its origin and its physical conditions are surrounded, this human story is of importance, for three generations of opservant men have watched its changes and marked the tendencies of its physical history. I have endeavoured throughout this book to keep separate the observations I recorded in the atoll and the inferences which I drew from them; and this for the reason that, should the inferences prove ultimately to be incorrect, the observations may still stand as an index of the state of the atoll which may be of use to any subsequent investigator. The record of the cyclones that have wrought havoc in the atoll has been given in the chapter dealing with the meteorological observations, but I regret that the story of their destruction, as told there, is not complete. On November 27, 1909, a cyclone, unprecedented in violence, swept over the group. The damage wrought in a few hours of storm is most vividly described in the Governor’s own words: “The barometer fell as low as 27°92—lower than I have ever known it fall before. We knew the day before that we were sure to have a very heavy storm, and we worked all day to secure and prepare for it; but unfortunately the whole of the preparations came to naught. At about six oclock in the evening the cyclone was on top of us, and by eleven o'clock that night the centre passed over our isiands. After that we had a lull for about half an hour, and then came the final blast, which carried away and finished everything. Searcely a single thing withstood its fury. The cyclone was accompanied by great waves (sea-water, carrying sand with it, passed through the tower of my house, which is fifty feet high), and these waves left hardly anything standing. The whole of the villages, as well as the working sheds and stores, were levelled INTRODUCTION XXIll to the ground, or wasted and carried away by the sea. I could scarcely credit my eyes when daylight came; the wreckage was so thorough and complete that the islands were unrecognisable. Of my plantations of coconuts I am sure that not more than one tree in a hundred stood it; in consequence I have lost 800,000 trees, more or less. As for lighters and boats, more than 40 per cent. are lost, broken, or damaged. “ Altogether only five buildings stood upright, and these without roofs upon them. The whole of that night we were practically under water or in the water, wet and miserably bedraggled. Fortunately only one man was killed right off by a falling tree, and another died ofexposure. It was simply miraculous how the people were saved, and the tales of their sufferings during that night are beyond belief. They were scattered by the seas all over the islands, and one can only say that Providence guided them into safety. “ We are plagued by mosquitoes, flies and other insects, all of varieties that I do not even recognise—and they pester the whole group, and make life a burden.” It is a sad duty to add this letter to the description I have given of the prosperity and order of the settlement as I last saw it. If it is permissible to extract interest from such a disaster, I would call attention to the importance of the arrival of presumed new species of insects with the wind. Again, the fact that the waves swept right over the islands, and deposited sand upon a tower fifty feet high, will serve to bring home to those who do not believe in the power of waves to shape atolls, and move “ negro-heads,’ that the waves of the storm-driven blue ocean are not to be pictured at an inland fireside. ADDENDUM TO RE-ISSUE In April 1910, the Governor, whose ill-health had been aggravated by the hardships experienced during the cyclone, sailed for England. He was not fated to return. On July 7, 1910, he died in the island from which some three hundred years before, William Keeling had set out on his voyages of discovery. Keeling lies buried at Carisbrook, while hard by in Bonchurch churchyard George Clunies-Ross has found his last resting-place. CORRICENDA On page 39, fur “ anixety ’ eg Olly on AESISCILIL >? Gaara % wessall” » > 145, ., ‘*Sherrard Osborne” read “* Sherard Osborn, ’ , 199, ,, “neigbourhood” 7cad “neighbourhood.” Index. ‘Andrew Ross,” p. 286, ead “Dr, C. W. Andrews.” read “anxiety.” (a ee tenner = 4, 4 ee oe a ¢ ENE Se I SS A NY a EES RI maby a ie a 4 spe us Bs Pees. es LS CAN Hoy Tore Tey rorelan- ~~ Ayers. SPadang’, BR Simiant e aay B, “I ak aon P Te; osileda 5 Rae eo ee ey Point Bon SeBeroo Aunewi AOS ONY FTanghong M22 M: R r ¥ id tapas B. CM ni ar aanib Mapa Wid wibo Ss 5 MACE S ant Jennys 8° q.82_Indrapoor I: ae a pw S ee Rebus, ergo Bringen® R ; 4 % Zz fis Seaflow Ks i * ‘Gi foes Lunrpu py url nctrapoorF. Us, M Soi T R Sero™ CIrtbory oS RLakat IK Masso oar jauban Fant @foco Moco % ’ Rolsitt 4) & ox kakap ~ 8. Xr, Si Ti i: aig “anopo , et of -Laeg I. Mittoh, Bergen I. o Js sit bat ‘get Mego orTrtestel. Satake ‘ Pringdine eg £fadang ud Bend Oceanic Current ——__— 100° 105° Lovell Reeve SerBP, Paris = 2 © is CoterteysSi- wiR. O14 So charvos se syery She : REL soo 4 re wy 28 Sliver, P¥ 2 “Annws Lit Sy ~ F Po, a 9 OUP ay ~~ pe gig Enna hi. 4 “ar : ¥ by: 3 fay e > MALAY ARCHIPELAGO SHOWING COCOS-KEELING ATOLL ihe StanfordsS Geog! Estat, London . Limited. : 105° FMT TT Hsin AMMenpi RH geaiundi aint ing me Kwakt 4 E f Clhuvibor’ apf aul % a> & ZG, Woe | Doge Point Bin 9's ‘ Tajooorf ie Dany ! Ss S S @ € Any al XR Ls ltt %& Palembang 2 a asf) yt Baka, Uttoh “South Sh. S, XB 2, Lice Gsulombo =f ! Vy Looting RS ium Afatany | tm Oceanic Current ee Lovell Reevek Co.. Limited. MALAY ARCHIPELAGO SHOWING COCOS-KEELING ATOLL Stantords Geog! Estab, London 8 droitcs Dee? Jan? & Feb? PART I THE HISTORY OF THE ATOLL CHAPTER I THE DISCOVERY AND EARLY HISTORY OF THE ISLANDS From what has been said by way of introduction to this account of the atoll, it will be seen that the Cocos-Keeling Islands are worthy of some notice from the greater world for a twofold reason: first, for their being what they are—a perfect example of that most wonderful of geographical forma- tions, a coral atoll; and the second, that they hold the records of a history of romance and adventure which rivals any of the imagined happenings of fiction. The kingdom of the Cocos-Keeling Islands has a strange and attractive history—as instructive in its way as is that of any great nation, or any story that tells of the doings of the ruler and the ruled. The drama of history loses nothing by reason of the small- ness of its stage; and just as all the problems of life—all the social questions in their most elaborate and acute forms—may be seen outside a philosopher's front door ; so may the never- ending story of monarch and rival monarch, of rule and mis- rule, and of treasons and plotting, which constitutes all history, be traced in miniature in the early doings of this little colony. There is always a popular attraction attaching to little king- doms, and a halo of romance about the man who, greatly daring, has left the more beaten tracks of life to take upon himself the rule of other races, even though his people have been few, and his enterprise of but little import among the nations. 1 A 2 CORAL AND ATOLLS Many such romances lie buried in obscurity, and from the early records of the traffickings of Englishmen and Asiaties a score of wonderful tales might be unfolded; for it is not only in fiction that the bo’s’n who has gone ashore in foreign parts has been made a ruler, or the shipwrecked wait become a mighty monarch. It is much to be regretted that such thks should ever be lost to the world, for each tells a story of enterprise and hardi- hood, and offers a picture of the greatest of the birthrights of the Englishman—the power that is born in him to rule an alien race. From time to time stray paragraphs in newspapers, or more pretentious articles in magazines or chapters of books, have told the tale of the “ Kings of Cocos”; and though the romance of the dynasty has always appealed to those who penned them, they have been strangely lacking in accuracy. The true details of the early days of the Clunies-Ross sovereignty have never been published, and I am fortunate in having at my disposal the original papers of the founder of the Settlement. It is my great regret that these documents are too lengthy to be am ntened in their complete form, for they make a splendidly told story of adventure, written by the man who lived their pages through, and they tell in every line the fine robust ideals of Ross Primus, who risked so much on his venture at kingship. The history of the atoll is a thing of to-day, for it begins only with the advent of the Clunies-Ross dynasty, and what details we know of the pre-Ross period are obscure and of no great interest. Only one excuse could warrant the unearthing of all the early references to the atoll; and that is the possibility of tracing the past history of the islands, so that some notion of their geographical changes, and their formation, might be gleaned. But Cocos- Keeling is not of sufficient account in the world to possess a well-recorded history, and even were it to be complete, as we reckon history, it would probably not help us much in understanding the formation of the atoll, for no human record can hope to mark more than a day in its long DISCOVERY AND EARLY HISTORY 38 life-story. I have, therefore, been brief in my references to the early chapters of the island history, and have only gathered together such fragments as seem fairly reliable and sufficiently interesting. Most of the details that are available have been collected by Dr. Guppy, who published an account of the islands in 1889; and others le scattered through the Blue Books of the Straits Settlements Government. From both of these sources I have taken such odds and ends as help to fill in the gap between the time of the discovery of the group, and the arrival of Ross Primus. There is no doubt that the islands were discovered by the early English navigators, and there seems most reason to assign to Captain William Keeling—after whom the northern atollon is named—the honour of their first finding. In 1609 William Keeling, who was a captain in the service of the East India Company, sailed homeward from Bantam, and on this voyage it is supposed that he sighted the islands, and it is certain that his course must have lain close in their neighbourhood. And yet the actual record of their sighting does not appear to be forthcoming, for no reference was found to it in the account of his voyages: and no more direct evidence than the date of the first charting of the islands, and their name, associates Keeling with their discovery. In any case it is probable that Keeling only saw the island that to-day bears his name, and the southern atoll—the Cocos Islands—were the independent discovery of another English navigator, and was made soon after Keeling’s finding of the northern atollon. . Captain William Keeling was a man of some note—ana many virtues—and in Carisbrooke Church in the Isle of Wight a tablet and an inscription bear testimony to his many merits. Keeling is depicted standing upon the deck of a ship, and the tablet witnesses that “Here lyeth the body of the right worthy William Keeling Esquire, Groom of the chamber to our Soverign Lord King James, General for the Hon. East India Adventurers, where he was thrice by them employed, and dying in this Isle, at the age of 42, An, 1619 Sept. 12th, hath 4 CORAL AND ATOLLS this remembrance heer fixed, by his loving and sorrowful wife Ann Keeling.” And then, more picturesquely, it goes on: Fortie and two years in this vessel frail On the rough seas of life, did Keeling saile A merchant fortunate, a Captain bould A courtier gracious, yet alas, not old. Such wealth, experience, honour, and high praise Few men in twice as many years or daies. But what the world admired, he deemed but dross, For Christ: without Christ, all his gains but losse ; For him, and his dear love, with merrie cheere, To the holy land his last course he did steere. Faith served for sails, the sacred word for card, Hope was his anchor, glorie his reward : And thus with gales of grace, by happy venter, Through straits of death, heaven’s harbour he did enter. Since the group has been for so long known by the name of its discoverer, it is to be regretted that nowadays this name is often dropped, and the group is simply called the Cocos Islands. Not only does this curtailing of the proper name of the islands ignore the claims of a worthy English navigator, but it leads to much actual confusion. For besides this group, there are others that are known by the name of Cocos Islands :—the Cocos of treasure fame, the Cocos in the Andaman group, the Cocos off the West coast of Sumatra, and other smaller islands so named from their bearing coconut palms are apt to be confounded with this atoll. So far has this confusion been carried that mistakes have been made, even by representatives of the Government, and the atoll has received an official visit intended for the Cocos Island in the Andaman group. The southern islands—the Cocos Islands proper—were long known by the name of the Triangular Islands, and the name Cocos was given to them apparently by the Dutch. The northern atollon was called Keeling’s Island, or occasionally Killing Island, until Horsburgh, the hydrographer to the East India Company (and after whom one of the islands is named) united the two groups of islands on his charts, and called them the Cocos-Keeling Islands. On many maps of the present day the atoll is named the Borneo Coral Reefs: a name that was DISCOVERY AND EARLY HISTORY = 5 given to the islands because Ross Primus took his household gods to the new home in a ship he named the Borneo: but Ross Primus himself always referred to the group as “ Keeling’s Isles.” In the study of the early history of the atoll the most important information might be expected from a comparison of the older charts with those made at the present day, for by this means we might hope to see what the modern tendencies of the atoll growth may be. But unfortunately the charts that are available are few, and the islands are as a rule depicted so roughly that there is little safety in arguments based on any changes that may seem to have occurred. In maps earlier than 1609 Dr. Guppy was unable to find any reference to the atoll, but in Dudley’s “ Arcano del Mare,” published in 1647, the islands are charted in their correct position. The islands are also shown, but not named, in Blaeu’s appendix to the “ Theatrum Orbis Terrarum ” of Ortelius of 1631, though in the edition of 1606 they are not indicated. The most important early record—because of the more accurate charting—is that in Van Keulen’s “ Zeefakkel” of 1753, where the islands are depicted by Jan de Marre, the Dutch navigator, who made his chart in 1729-30. Dr. Guppy reproduces this map, which is by no means a bad representation of the group, but I would hesitate to attach a high value to any theories based upon its truthfulness. Beyond a few visits from passing navigators, there is nothing of historic interest to be noted until the year 1825, when according to Keating (in “Holman’s Voyage”) Captain Le Cour of the brig Mauritius temporarily occupied the atoll; and it is said that his name, and those of his crew, were carved on the coconut palms. This occupation could not have been of long duration, for on December 6 of the same year Ross Primus landed and found the islands uninhabited, and in his account of his settling he says no word of their recent occupation. With the year 1825 begins the modern history of the atoll, the arrival of the present line of settlers, and the unfold- ing of the strange story of the early days of this modern Utopia. CHAPTER II THE ORIGIN OF THE CLUNIES-ROSS FAMILY THE more recent history of the atoll tells thestory of three genera- tions of the Clunies- Ross family; and it is a record of remarkable human enterprise carried out in strange ways and in a strange place, by men of no ordinary stamp of mind or individuality. For eighty years some member of the Clunies-Ross family —men standing out among their fellow men—has with the most wonderful endurance and pluck, and with a singular mix- ture of persistence and tact, ruled and fathered the people, and developed his island kingdom. Although this little history includes but three generations, and comprises but eighty years, yet it is instructive of history in general, for much of the early doings of the family are now mere legend; much is forgotten, and much more is guessed at ; and many are the conflicting tales that are at present current concerning the birth of the colony and its younger days. The history of the Ross family is one of peculiar interest, and in variously distorted forms, fragments of it have on several occasions appeared in print. Hach representative of the Straits Government who has come upon the annual visit to the islands has given some outlines of the life of the present proprietor—and no more picturesque figure could tempt the pen; yet of the early history of the family there is but little that has been published that can claim any real title to accuracy. Ross Primus was a remarkable man, and every page of his story marks him out as one to whom a strange fascination belongs; as an example of those strong men whose lives are naturally interwoven with romance, and one to whom out- landish enterprise was his commonplace, and adventure his destiny. 6 ORIGIN OF CLUNIES-ROSS FAMILY 7 The grandsire was the prototype of the grandson, and to-day Ross Tertius stands out a man remarkable among men—a monarch and a father among his own people and in his own islands ; a strong man, and an able, in any company, in any land. George Ross to-day has all the masterful attributes of John Ross a hundred years ago, has all his ability and his dexterity, and his inborn power to rule: but to-day George Ross has his enterprise centred in a quiet and peaceful tropic isle, whilst a hundred years ago his grandsire fought and lived in those stirring scenes enacted under the flag of the Old Hast India Company. Like many another notable race of men the Ross family shows in a remarkable degree the phenomenon of inherited prepotency, and the dominant features, both mental and physical, of the family type show a most wonderful persistence. So far as concerns the origin of the race that has pioneered this strange enterprise, we need go no further back in history than the year 1715: for the events of that year were instrumental in shaping the after-destinies of the family, and without the 15 and its subsequent disasters, the Clunies-Ross family might still be treading the easy pathway of the Scottish gentry. The year of the ill-fated rising of the Scots in defence of the rights of “ James, son of James II. of England,’ found Alexander Clunies—called Clunies-Ross by right of his wife— doing great deeds for the Clan Chattan in Sutherlandshire: but one short year after, both he and his cause were in sorry straits. When on February 5, 1716, James sailed from Montrose, he left a hopeless cause behind him: and when the English came by sea, nothing was left to the broken clans save to disperse; and to the broken leaders save to seek their homes —or their hiding-places. It was a hiding-place that Alexander sought, and with his two young sons he went to the Orkneys, to tarry till time should heal the wound where a cannon-ball had removed his right leg, and in some measure mend the fortunes of his cause. But long before his wound was healed, his. cause 8 CORAL AND ATOLLS was dead: and in the horrid hue and cry that followed, he was forced to fly to Yell in the Shetland Isles, for even the Orkneys could not hide him now. In Yell he settled for the remainder of his days, and in Yell his eldest son James completed the sad work of breaking the old man’s proud Jacobite heart by marrying Catherine Plapen—a Norwegian girl of plebeian descent. This was the last straw for the old Jacobite, who had lost his home, his cause, and his estates ; and so he cursed his son, and taking his claymore, he broke it in two; for the blade which had go long defended the family honour was useless now that this honour counted for so little to him who should defend it next. That the act might be the more complete, he burnt the records of the clan for whose pride his eldest son had shown so little respect; and cut off for ever the life that he had led, and the ideals that he had represented, from the prideless doings of his wayward son. James and Catherine remained in the Shetland Islands and there their eldest son John was born: John afterwards married Catherine Clunies, who was a cousin of his, and they also continued to live in the family’s adopted home. The eldest son of John and Catherine was named George, and he also married one of the many relatives that were now inhabiting this isolated home of theirs. His wife was named Ross, and by her he had a son, John Clunies-Ross, who was born in August 1786, and who afterwards became the first “ King of Cocos.” Since no authentic account of John Clunies-Ross has ever been published, and since in those accounts that have appeared there has been but little agreement and but little truth, it will be best to give the story of his origin and his aims in his own words. The document from which I take his autobiography is a petition to the Hon. Sir T. Bladen Capel, K C.B., Commander-in-Chief of the East Indies; and it was written from Cocos-Keeling for the purpose of obtain- ing a better recognition of his settlement at the hands of the British authorities. ORIGIN OF CLUNIES-ROSS FAMILY = 9 He mentions that he had petitioned his late Majesty to recognise “ Keeling’s Isles ” as a part of the British Empire, and then he goes on to tell his own history in the following words: “To begin then at the beginning—I am a native of Zetland, descended maternally from a Norwegian family, and lineally on the paternal side from one of those ignorant, and therefore misguided, men who in the last century led forth many of the tribes of N.W. Scotland to assist with their swords, hundreds opposed to millions, Royal hereditary pretension against National Constitutional rights; and were in consequence mostly ruined, cut off, and expatriated. “T may almost say that I was born at sea (Aug. 1785) the walls of my parents’ bedchamber being often wetted by its spray—most of my waking hours were however spent in and on its waves from the age of towards three at most to thirteen, when I proceeded to serve apprenticeship to the Greenland whale fishery, from whence after making voyages to the Baltic and to China, etc., I proceeded to the whaling business in the Southern Sea department, where I was in May 1813 mate and harpooner of the ship Baroness Longueville of London— S. Chace master—and when she was put into the port of Coupang in the Island of Rimer to obtain refreshments and water before starting for England, the full cargo of spermaceti having been acquired in the space of sixteen months from thence, there lay in that anchorage a small Brig called the Olivia in want of a Commander and being hired and armed as a dispatch and coasting convoy vessel by the British Java Government. “The resident of Coupang applied to Mr. Chace for an officer to supply that want,and I resolved to accept the offer altho’ I had been what is called ‘ very lucky’ in my vocation, being chiefly induced to take that resolution by consideration of the intelligence which had then been first received by us of the war, commenced by the American republic against Great Britain, and the consequent risk of capture in a single sailing and nearly unarmed vessel all the way to St. Helena, where only convoy was to be had. 10 CORAL AND ATOLLS “Having received charge of this vessel, I proceeded with her via Macassa and Beema, to Batavia, where first I saw the Brig’s owner—and Alex Hare Esq. who was at that time British ‘commissioner’ alias Miniature Governor General over the Island of Borneo and ‘ Resident’ alias Governor Particular of Banjarmassem the chief local British Establishment in that island.” This chance meeting with Alexander Hare was a great turning-point in the life of John Ross, and since their subse- quent histories were so interwoven, it will be well to trace the life of Hare up to the time of the meeting in Batavia. As Ross Primus himself says, “as the subsequent history of this person became much connected with mine, and occasion has been made by himself for its previous portion to be also noticed by me,” it is best to give some account of Hare, following the narrative of Ross Primus as closely as may be. Alexander Hare was the eldest of four boys, sons of a wealthy London watchmaker, and although the watchmaker was a pious and respected man, his eldest son showed early those signs of the eccentric degeneracy that marked and marred his later life. When a young man he went to Portugal, and became a clerk in Lisbon, and there he continued for some time; his next move was in the direction of the Hast, which seemed always to call him, and soon he appears in Calcutta as the agent for his firm. It was here that the magic of the Hast first took possession of Hare, and in all his subsequent doings we find him becoming steadily more Oriental, steadily more eccentric. From Calcutta he went to Malacca as- an agent and as a merchant, and in Malacca he gave vent to all his love of Oriental splendour, and started his slave retinue and his harem. From now onwards, whenever Hare is mentioned in the narrative of Ross Primus, it is always in association with the extraordinary collection of Oriental women who were his chattels, and who constituted his harem. He himself called them his “ fiddle faddle, which whether wise or no, I am in the habit of considering necessary.” Whilst in Calcutta, Hare met Mr. Rafiles (afterwards Sir Stamford Raffles) that great ORIGIN OF CLUNIES-ROSS FAMILY 11 and somewhat neglected man, who did so much for English prestige in the Far Hast. Mr. Raffles was at that time secretary to the Government of Prince of Wales Island, and his friendship had a marked influence on the eventful career of Hare. Not long after Hare’s meeting with Stamford Raftles, the British expedition against Java was planned ; and Lord Minto selected him to join the foree—and no wiser choice could have been made. As a friend of Raffles, Hare joined the expedition and saw that wonderful achievement of Englishmen—an achievement whose fruits were after- wards wasted by Enelish politicians—the British conquest of Malaya. It was as a result of joining this expedition that Hare came to occupy the position in which Ross Primus found him, for when hostilities had ceased, the Sultan of Banjarmassem applied to the British Government to have a British resident attached to his kingdom, and Hare was appointed to the post. The Sultan gave to his new resident a large grant of land, for a great area of his dominions had been depopulated by pirates, and he hoped that a strong British resident, backed by the weight of British authority, would restore order and prosperity to his much-harassed people. But Hare was by no means a strong man, and at the outset he made a very bad step by choosing for his second in command a very ill-famed person named Vanderwadl. Vanderwadl was a Dutch adventurer of a very degraded type who was condemned to death for his crimes by the great Commander Daendels, and by an extraordinary coincidence was saved on the eve of his execution by the capture of Fort Cornelis by the British. Vanderwadl, saved from the gallows at the hands of his own countrymen, was chosen by Hare to act as his deputy, and in this choice there seems to have been little to recommend the candidate, save that his tastes and his mode of living coincided with the ideals of Hare. Good results were not to be expected from the adminis- trations of two such persons as Hare and Vanderwadl, and the result was not a happy one. They obtained convicts to 12 CORAL AND ATOLLS do forced labour and open up the country, and started a general programme of misrule. This state of things was still in progress when Ross Primus, who had been cruising among the islands for two years on behalf of the Government, met Hare, and was asked by him to superintend the harbour works of Banjarmassem. Ross accepted the position, and leaving the Olivia he commenced his new career by taking command of the Hon. East India Com- pany’s cruiser brig Mary Anne, a vessel of 300 tons and mount- ing twelve 12-pounders. He continued in this famous service, which has numbered in its ranks such men as Clive and Warren Hastings and to whose deeds we owe the British supremacy in India, and he left it only on the British cession of Malaya to the Dutch. Before Malaya was ceded, Alexander Hare went to Java, and left Banjarmassem in the charge of John Hare, his younger brother. During the time that Ross Primus had been engaged in his duties as harbour superintendent he had busied himself in shipbuilding, and had laid down a ship of 428 tons, which he had named the Borneo. The ceding of the British possessions to the Dutch found this his masterpiece still unfinished, and so, rather than leave the uncompleted work in the hands of the Dutch, he remained behind for eighteen months in order that he might in the end gain the fruits of his labour, and have the satisfaction of seeing his own ship launched. The Lorneo jeft the slips an accomplished success, and Ross sailed away in her in search of new adventures in some fresh enterprise. Although John Ross had built the Borneo, the ownership of her passed largely into the hands of the two Hares, John Hare having 55-64ths, Alexander Hare 1-64th, and Ross 8-64ths, and Alexander Hare was appointed managing owner. It was intended that the Borneo should sail between England, the Cape, and Malaya, and take a share in the trade in spices and coffees, and all those Eastern products which in the early days so easily built up the colossal fortunes of the ORIGIN OF CLUNIES-ROSS FAMILY 13 Eastern merchants. Ross sailed to Bencoolen and took Hare aboard, and then steered for the home from which he had so long been absent. At the Cape, Hare was landed, in order that he might make arrangements for the trading schemes of the partners. The first voyage was, however, such an ill-success that Ross despaired of making any money by the venture, and since he had for so long been prosperous in the East, he decided that he would take his wife—an Knglishwoman named Eliza- beth Dymoke—and his family to some new home. The marriage of Ross Primus with Elizabeth Dymoke, like all the doings of his life, had in it a strong element of romance. It was in London that he met her and he en- countered his future wife under rather curious circumstances. The times were those of the activity of the Press Gang, and it chanced to young Ross that he nearly fell into the hands of these worthies. But although he had so strong a love of the sea, he had no mind to set out on a voyage in this fashion, and so after a brief encounter he took to his heels and bolted up the street, to avoid being taken by the gang. The chase became a hot one, and as he was in some danger of being overtaken, he turned a corner on a sudden and dashed into the nearest house. It happened to be that of Samuel Dymoke, and in it the young man found shelter, for Elizabeth, taking pity on him, hid him and eared for him during the interval in which he dared not show himself abroad. Ross fell in love with the girl who had befriended him and saved him from the Press Gang, and he married her. She and her children shared his adventures with him and prepared to start with him for his new land. His choice of a new home ranged over many strange places, and in his journal are several interesting reflections upon the various advantages and disadvantages offered by such remote spots as Melville Island, the Falklands, Kerguelen, St. Paul’s, Christmas Island, the Poggies, and Cocos-Keeling. Of the Poggy Islands he actually took out a lease in 1821, a “John Christie Esq.” being the other lessee, but the Dutch possession prevented him from ever taking advantage of it. 14 CORAL AND ATOLLS He seems to have had a most peculiar taste to guide him in the choice of his new land: one thing he must have, and that was the sound of the sea always in his ears, and the cities of America were therefore not for him: whilst Australia he decided against, for he felt it an injustice to his children that they should be reared in “a country that had the taint of convicts.” He took his wife and children on the Borneo and returned to the Cape (May 1825), where Hare was waiting in a ship called the Hippomenes, commanded by James Ross, his younger brother. Both ships cruised off, and it was agreed that they should meet at the Cocos-Keeling Islands. Ross Primus was the first to reach the meeting-place (Dec. 6, 1825), and waited for his brother until the 19th, but as the Hippomenes did not appear, he sailed away for the Cape again, and found that Alexander Hare had not long left. He then proceeded to London, for he felt that, as he had decided to make his home in Cocos, he had better make his position there somewhat more assured; and he therefore applied to John Hare—as a person of some authority—to get Government possession of the place. Then, thinking that all would be well, he went to sea again and arrived in Cocos on Feb. 27, 1827; there he found Hare fully established with his harem, and playing the role of despot to his heart’s content. The trading purposes of the Borneo’s voyage were not yet completed, and so, as Ross Primus says, “I hutted my family on the isle, and continued my voyage.” Later in the year he returned, and then began the dual occupation of Hare and Ross, and all the queer stories of the squabbles of the rival rulers in their tiny kingdom. CHAPTER IIl Wirn dominions that comprise the whole breadth of great continents, and with subjects taxing man’s powers of computa- tion, it is an easy thing for monarchs to disagree; it is none the less so in an atoll with a population of less than two hundred souls, and an area of a few square miles, when two rulers attempt to wield their independent sceptres. There were no methods sanctioned by tradition in the government of the Islands and trouble arose early, and general disagreement continued without remission until the dual rule came to an inglorious end. The two rival factions had settled in the atoll for very different reasons; Hare elected to come to Cocos because he was in some disgrace at home, for he had not satisfactorily settled his financial dealings with the East India Company— and he was glad to seek some secluded corner of the globe, where he could dwell free from all interference from his creditors ; and free too from the prying eye of civilisation, that would look askance at his harem and his manner of living. With Ross Primus it was a shrewd business instinct, coupled with his love for the sea, that guided him to the atoll; for he saw the commercial advantages that Cocos- Keeling afforded. In those days the Eastern produce, spices, coffee, and pepper, was sold from Eastern ports with great rapidity; and as the crops arrived at the coast only twice in the year much time was wasted for the ships engaged in the trade, for no reserve cargoes were kept, and a ship would have to wait long for her load, and take it aboard at the tardy convenience of the native merchants. Now Ross saw that a man with a 15 16 CORAL AND ATOLLS thorough knowledge of Eastern produce, and familiar with the dialects of Malaya, could buy with great cheapness when the crops were abundant, and could, after storing his cargo, sell it to homeward-bound merchantmen with great advantage to himself. Such a storing-place he intended his new home to be, and he designed to run the Sorneo between the Malayan islands and Cocos, and make the atoll into a depot for Eastern produce. It was for this purpose that he wished the islands to be taken under the protection of the Imperial Government :—but many disappointments awaited him. He had left his claims in the hands of John Hare, who was to represent his cause in London, but Hare played him false, and no help came from that direction. Ross next made direct petition to His Majesty King William IV. This method also failed, and so did his attempts to persuade the Government of Mauritius to take the islands under its charge. It was felt that Cocos-Keeling was too small and too remote for its protection at the hands of the Government to. be warranted by its importance, and all the reward that Ross obtained for his repeated petitions was the visit of a British man-o-war. In February of 1830 Captain Sandilands arrived at the islands in H.M.S. Comet and held an inquiry and furnished a report, but no further steps were taken. It is said that in the meanwhile Hare was in negotiation with the Dutch authorities, for his purpose was to persuade them to take over the protection of the atoll. This would seem to be a strange line of action for Hare to take, for his feeling for the Dutch in Malaya cannot have been friendly ; and yet a Dutch gunboat—the Slora under the command of Mynheer Van de Jagt—arrived in October 1829, and reported on the condition of the islands, as a result—so it is said—of his negotiations. Neither Ross nor Hare produced any other result from their petitions than a visit of inquiry, and it is not surprising that this was the case, for the entire population of the atoll at the time only numbered 175 all told. Of these 175 colonists, 20 were white, and 10 of these were born in the islands: the remaining 155 were natives of Sumatra, 1825-1854 LZ Borneo, Celebes, Java, Baly, Sumbawa, Timor, New Guinea, the Cape, India and China. The extraordinary mixture of races in the settlers is accounted for, partly because Hare’s women were recruited from various Eastern nations, and partly from the fact that the crews of the Borneo and Hippomenes doubtless contained the usual mixture of Asiatic seamen. It would seem that the original intention of Ross Primus, of making his islands a depot for Eastern produce, did not last long, for in 1837—ten ycars after the original settlement—he had turned his attention to the natural products of the atoll, and describes his business as an “oil factory,” and his trade and communications were mostly carried on with Mauritius. From this first establishing of the oil factory the whole industry of the islands has sprung, for it is the coco palm and its many useful products that form the sole commercial importance of the group. to-day. In connection with the coco palm a point of interest arises, for Dana has said “ there is no known instance that any island never inhabited has been found supplied with coconut trees.” It is often said that the coco palms in Cocos-Keeling were planted by Ross Primus, and it is pointed out that he did not come to the atoll to work copra or oil, and did not make mention of this industry until several years of his settlement were passed. But Darwin, when he visited the atoll early in 1836, describes it as being thickly covered with coco palms, and says that they constituted the whole prosperity of the place, the only export being oil from the nut, and the nuts themselves, which are taken to Singapore and Mauritius. Further than this, we have seen that when Captain Le Cour arrived in 1825—-before Ross Primus had even come to the islands—he carved his name on the palm trunks; and in 1753 Van Keulen described the islands as being “ wooded.” It is quite a mistake to suppose that the coconut is not easily planted by the agency of the waves, for unlike many other seed waifs that are borne in vain to the shores of coral islands, the coconut will germinate and flourish within reach of the salt water. Hyerywhere around the lagoon shores the B 18 CORAL AND ATOLLS process may be seen any day, and there is no reason to suppose that any human agency was involved in the first planting of the coconuts in Cocos-Keeling. In the staple industry of the island Hare also took his share, but according to the island legends it was more for the purpose of keeping his retinue employed than for any definite commercial aim. It is said that when his men had prepared a quantity of oil, Hare was in the habit of going by night and removing the corks from the casks, that he might waste by darkness what his men had prepared by day. In this way he ensured a sufficiency of employment for the men of his party, and so protected himself and his mimic court from interference at the hands of idlers. The small faction over which Hare ruled were held by him as slaves, for though he had been forced to take out certificates of emancipation, the business had made no difference to the status of his retainers. He so arranged it that the liberation paper was served on board the Borneo at Fort Malboro in 1820, and it was he who gave an explanation of the contents of the papers to the unknowing natives. Afterwards he made them all sign documents declaring that they and their children were his absolute property, and it was as his personal chattels that they came to the islands. It was over the question of slave workers or free colonists that Ross and Hare first fell to quarrelling. It was the policy of the pioneer of the Ross dynasty that all his people should be free men, “free,” as he said, “except to commit mischief”; and many are the pious reflections in his journal concerning the slavery methods of Hare. Naturally enough this state of affairs caused much ill- feeling, and the quarrel was greatly aggravated by the very natural desertion of many of Hare’s people to the camp of toss Primus. It was the boast of the pioneer that none were weaned away from the rival settlement, but that protection was freely extended to those whom ill-treatment drove to seek a refuge with him. As a matter of fact this neutral attitude did not last long— at any rate on the part of the natives—for Hare’s people wf 1825-1854 ie. were mostly women, and those who came with Ross were for the most part men. Among the island stories there are to-day many well-told tales of nocturnal exploits; stories of heroic swims, of hasty flights, and adventures in which the women were stolen—not all unwilling—from Hare's camp, and carried off by the men of the Ross faction. In this way Ross’ little band of settlers grew larger by degrees, and his influence steadily increased ; whilst Hare, with his ever-diminishing subjects, became more aid more absorbed in the butterfly pleasures of his mimic court. It is said that Hare took up his residence on the islet that bears the name of Pulu Bras, from its resemblance in shape to a piled-up heap of rice. Pulu Bras is to-day a very small island, with an area of but a few square yards; and in the map of Jan de Marre of 1730 it is also shown as an inconsiderable piece of land. Yet in 1827 it is said that it was much larger, and was joined to the island next to it by a spit of sand. Great changes must have taken place with some rapidity in this portion of the island ring if the legend of his residence is true; and it is not altogether unlikely, for Pulu Bras is a pure sand island, and therefore liable to change with every fancy of the wind and waves; and some few years ago it is said that parts of his house were still to be seen upon it. The original Ross settlement was made upon the Pulu Selma, but in consequence of the unfriendly relations with the neighbouring party on Pulu Bras, it was moved on to Pulu Atas, the most southern—and distant—portion of the island ring. The Pulu Atas settlement was, however, only a temporary one, for the silting of the southern portion of the lagoon was taking place so rapidly that in a very few years the colonists were forced to move back to Pulu Selma, in order to have an adequate waterway for their boats. The moving of the Ross settlement to Pulu Selma and the end of Hare’s brief reign took place at about the same time, and both were recent events when Darwin came to the islands in the April of 1836. | The final disaster that befell Hare was a wholesale 20 CORAL AND ATOLLS desertion of his followers, headed by one Neh Basir, who was born in Malacca, the descendant of parents presented to Alexander Hare by the Rajah of Banjer. Neh Basir afterwards married a slave girl named Daphne, belonging to Hare, and he died on June 19, 1893, at the age of 88. He formed one of the direct links with Hare’s time amongst the Cocos-born Malays, and his descendants to-day are numerous. Little by little Hare’s influence diminished as his subjects gradually dwindled away, and before the end of ten years he finally retired from the island to die in Singapore. His attempt to realise his ideal—to be the monarch of a slavish Eastern court amidst the luxurious setting of a tropical coral island—had proved a failure. His band of musicians, his slaves, his courtiers, his harem, and his splendid sovereignty had slowly but surely slipped from his grasp, and the more stubborn, more practical rule of Ross Primus had ruined his” Utopia. Of Hare’s reign there is little but tradition in the islands to-day, but many of the people are of course descendants of his retinue, and there is left at least one fine silver badge, which—popularly supposed to be the insignia of the keepers of the harem—is the old livery badge of the Hast India Company. When Hare left the islands Ross Primus laid claim to the whole group, and was styled the King of the Cocos-Keeling Islands. It is Charles Darwin, the atoll’s most noteworthy visitor, who gives us our first picture of the settlement—and it is not a very flattering one. In April 1836 the Beagle arrived in the lagoon, and Darwin wrote in his journal an account of the atoll and its flora and fauna that to-day, after a lapse of 70 years, strikes one for its wonderful accuracy. Of the settlement he said: “The Malays are now nominally in a state of freedom, and certainly are so as far as regards their personal treatment; but in most other points they are considered as slaves. From their discontented state, from the repeated removals from islet to islet, and perhaps also from a little mismanagement, things 1825-1854 21 are not very prosperous.” His notes on the natives are of peculiar interest, and he says: “The houses of the Malays are arranged along the shores of the lagoon. The whole place has rather a desolate aspect, for there were no gardens to show the signs of care and cultivation. The natives belong to different islands in the East India Archipelago, but all speak the same language: we say the inhabitants of Borneo, Celebes, Java and Sumatra. In colour they resemble the Tahitians, from whom they do not widely differ in features. Some of the women show a good deal of the Chinese character. I liked both their general expression and the sound of voices.” The most remarkable fact anent Darwin’s notes is that he makes no mention of the Zulu people who came from the Cape with the original party. It is likely that they were not numerous, and yet their prepotent influence has been strongly marked on the physical stamp of the islanders of to-day. Not only did he not mention the African element, but he also overlooked the Papuan people from New Guinea, and they too have left very visible traces of their woolly- headed characteristics; probably the Chinese character that he observed among the women was also the result of real Chinese blood—for its influence too is well marked to-day. This is a question of real ethnological interest, for it shows that the parental Negro and Chinese elements were in 1836 so inconspicuous that Darwin practically overlooked them ; and yet after 70 years of intermarrying the resulting race may be said to depart from the typical Malay stock in two directions: first, and most conspicuous, is the Negro type; and second, the type that possesses Chinese characters. Some Cocos- born families possess Negro features to a remarkable degree and the race is a very fine one; the Chinese type is of a physique not nearly so good—it is held locally in some contempt—and resembles that found all over the seaboards of Malaya where Chinese and Malay intermarry. It may be said as a general rule that in intermarrying the African Negro and the Chinese both swamp the physical characters of the pure Malay—and so too does the Papuan, whose frizzy 22 CORAL AND ATOLLS hair tends to persist in a race, despite the original straightness of the Malay locks. Ross Primus was not in the islands at the time of Darwin’s visit, and the place had been left in charge of one Leisk, who was one of the original colonists, and had been mate of the Borneo. Leisk figures again in the history of the settle- ment, and not in a very glorious light, but in connection with Darwin’s visit he is only remarkable as being the author of those errors in the great naturalist’s account of the atoll that lent support to the Theory of Subsidence of Coral Reefs. It was under Leisk’s guidance that Darwin examined the atoll, and the information that was imparted to Darwin was certainly not reliable, and in some cases I believe that there is no doubt that the inaccuracies of Leisk’s statements influenced Darwin in his conception of the mode of formation of the group. In some measure, therefore, Leisk helped on the cause of the Theory of the Subsidence of Atolls. With the departure of Hare, Ross Primus, with the mile of the whole “atoll” im” his “hands, did) not sanueuncr fnd his path an easy one. The time of his assuming the sole authority was when the great southern whaling industry was still in a very flourishing condition, and when all the scum of the maritime populations of three continents was afloat in the Southern Ocean. In those days Cocos-Keeling was a place of call for whalers, for fresh water and fresh provisions were always to be had there. The ordeal of a prolonged cruise in a whaler was an experience that every sailor shrank from, and when, after months of hardships and brutality, the crews got ashore in the islands, they generally rejoined the ship with some of their number lacking. Many are the island tales of deserted whalers and their doings, but one runaway deserves special notice, for he became the subject of a petition to Sir T. B. Capel, and came near to making white man’s war in the peaceful island settlement. This man was an American named Joseph Raymond, who 1825-1854 23 deserted from The Trusty, a whaler which had come into the atollin January 1836. He was a bad character, who had fled from justice in “Charlestown close by Boston in Massa- chusetts,” having already served ten years for the murder of a negro. Raymond, whom Ross in his petition calls “the foreign anarchistical ringleader,” joined with Leisk in opposing “duly constituted British authority in territory which if not British is at all events not American.” The trouble became serious, for Raymond induced the natives to strike, enlisted other deserters in his cause, and did much damage to the settlement by setting fire to the working sheds and oil factory. It was to have a sure ground for thoroughly dealing with the rising that Ross Primus applied to the Admiral. Unfortunately, with the sending of the petition, the story as written by Ross Primus in his journal ends; but though no word is said as to the fate of Raymond, we learn that “hed was duly banished to Batavia, aud passed out of the island story. A natural interest attaches to the fate of Raymond, for he was playing the desperate game of civil war and of attempting to usurp the authority in a place where a strony and resolute man made his own laws and dealt his own justice. Which- ever way the game should chance to go, it was one that had of necessity to be enacted without the help or interference of outsiders, for no appeal could be carried to an authority nearer than Ceylon, where the Admiral was stationed at Trincomalee. When Ross first discovered the plot, he says in his journal, “fortunately my previous suspicions and the gradual manner in which the whole affair had opened upon me had so far prepared me that I was not taken by surprise, in which case I had certainly bestowed upon the villain his quietus on the instant.” This petition tells us all we know of the affair, and as Admiral Capel does not seem to have come to the islands and settled the business, it is to be presumed that Ross Primus managed to execute justice without the additional weight of outside approval. 24 CORAL AND ATOLLS Raymond may have been sent to Batavia, he may have been deported in another whaler—or he may have received his “ quietus on the instant”; in any case he disappears from the history of Cocos-Keeling and John Ross continued his reign undisturbed. Besides the whalers and the Beagle other vessels came to the island and brought visitors to Ross Primus from the outer world, for in sailing-ship days Cocos was a comparatively commonly visited place. For many years the Australian horse ships called at the atoll to take on water and fresh provisions, and their visits were fairly regular; until, as a consequence of the dangers of shipwreck on the barrier, the place was avoided by all boats save those in actual distress. A vast number of vessels have from time to time gone to pieces on the barrier, and the history of the atoll is a history of shipwreck—even the fauna of the place tells a tale of ship- wrecked castaways. With the cessation of the journal our knowledge of the doings of Ross Primus practically ends, for the sailing-ship visitors have left no record of the condition of the islands or the story of their ruler. In 1842 and 1844 the atoll was visited by Dutch navigators. Mynheer J. J. Duintjer and Mynheer J. W. Retgers have made reference to the islands, but the petition to Admiral Capel marks the end of the accurately recorded history of the reign of the first settler in Cocos. The remaining years of the life of Ross Primus were devoted to study, and a great deal of philosophic writing fell from the pen of this remarkable man. It is unfortunate that a great part of his writings was destroyed by a disastrous fire which gutted his house and consumed most of his possessions. But some fragments remain, and one, a criticism on Darwin’s essay on Coral Reefs, was published in the year after his death in the Natuurkundig Tijdschrift voor Nederlundsch Indie (deel. vii., Batavia, 1855). By a curious mistake this work is credited in the Royal Society’s Catalogue of Scientific Papers to Sir J. C. Ross, the Arctic explorer, and, in the 1825-1854 25 article already referred to by Dr. Guppy, to his son Ross Secundus. Besides this publication, Ross Primus left to the world a two-volume treatise on the work of Malthus, a ccpy of which is now preserved in the Governor’s house on PuluSelma. Itisa work of great erudition written from an extreme point of view, but, although it makes a fierce attack upon every premiss and every argument of Mr. Malthus, it cannot be said to detract greatly from the patiently drawn conclusions of that astonishing and suggestive cleric. In 1854 the pioneer died at the age of 68. Concerning his death there is told one of the many interesting and romantic tales that form such a feature of the history which lives for the most part in the mouths of loyal and admiring narrators. Upon the morning after his death, the present Governor— then a little boy of nine—was sent in a boat to fetch the erew of the schooner to the funeral. Although no boat had previously put off to the vessel, he found on his arrival that the captain and his crew were awaiting him, all dressed in black, with full knowledge of the sad event of the previous evening. It seems that at sundown—when the spirit of Ross Primus fled—a sound had rushed through the air, and to each listen- ing man upon the schooner had come the wail of the passing of the spirit of his beloved chief. The schooner lay far out in the lagoon, but the news came clear and unmistakable, and the boy rowed back a troop of silent men, who had needed no telling of the loss which they and the little kingdom had suffered. Ross Primus was 41 when he made his island settle- ment, and he ruled as King of Cocos-Keeling for 27 years. He is buried in Pulu Selma, and Ross Tertius has honoured the memory of his grandfather by obtaining from Scotland a block of granite, which, carved by Cocos-born masons, makes a fitting monument for the grave of the pioneer. The work of this strange man is one that is hard to picture in these matter-of-fact days, and it is difficult to properly 26 CORAL AND ATOLLS estimate the hardihood of the man who took his family and “hutted ” them in this remarkably isolated spot. His writings show him to have been of a philosophic turn of mind, and quaint reflections come into all the accounts of his extra- ordinary endeavours; yet the philosopher was a man of hard business capacity and of daring activity. He ruled the scum of sailor-men and governed a staff of coolies mostly recruited from convict gangs; and he carried on the whole enterprise without the shedding of blood in a place where there was no appeal to authority save that which he wielded. Piety is evident all through his journal, but it is a piety — that becomes at times rudely interrupted by threats of violent justice to wrongdoers and speculations upon the successes of his enterprises. He was a man with a firmly settled belief in Divine justice; but, situated as he was in an isolated coral reef seven hundred miles from land, he by no means underrated his ability to be its successful instrument. The story of Ross Primus is one that should not lightly be forgotten, for although his whole efforts were spent in a small and out-of-the-way corner of the world, he was of the stamp of the real pioneer and a man in every way remarkable. CHAPTER IV THE HISTORY OF THE ATOLL, 1854-1871 WueEn the pioneer was dead, the rule of the islands descended to his eldest son, John George Clunies-Ross, who had for many years assisted his father in the work of administration, and afforded him the leisure to indulge his literary tastes. John George Clunies-Ross was one of the children who, with Elizabeth their mother, had been “hutted” on the islands in 1827; and in the islands he remained through- out his youth and early manhood. He was born in London, and was christened at Stepney, and he was but a small child when his father set about his enterprise of making a settlement upon the islands which he was afterwards to govern. His education had been received on the atoll at the hands of his mother and father, assisted by the Scotch mate Leisk ; and although the foundations of his schooling would appear to have been slight, he was a man of remarkable aptitude for learning, and devoted the greater part of his life to study. Of Ross Secundus there is no such vivid picture as that left behind by his father or that presented by his son, and of his governorship there is no clear or detailed record. He appears to have been a philosophic man—a_ good observer and a true lover of nature—and somewhat of an idealist. In manner he was quiet and very reserved, and much given to a habit of silence. In 1859, four years after his taking over the control of the settlement, he visited his native England, and this one brief journey home was the only occasion upon which he ever returned to the larger world; for the rest of his life was spent in his own atoll, and in expeditions among the islands of the Malay Archipelago. 2¢ 28 CORAL AND ATOLLS Before he made this one excursion into the old civilisa- tion which he had left with his childhood, the greatest event in the history of his governorship had taken place, for on March 31, 1857, H.M.S. Juno arrived in the atoll. It was a great occasion in the islands; with the firing of a royal salute, Captain Fremantle proclaimed the atoll to be a part of the British dominions; and the dream of the Cocos islanders was realised. At the same time, the status of Ross Secundus as an absolute ruler was somewhat altered, for he was declared in the proclamation to be appointed as the Governor of the Settlement during Her Majesty’s pleasure: the Dutch flag was no more to be hoisted upon the trading schooner of the islands, and Ross Secundus was to be responsible for the good conduct of the colony. | It would appear that all the demonstration and ceremony incidental to this visit of the man-o’-war was in reality the outcome of a very curious mistake, for it is said that the Cocos Island that was intended for annexation to the British dominions was one in the Andaman group, and not the atoll of Cocos-Keeling at all. However, the visit of the Juno marks a well-remembered epoch in the history of the settle- ment, and from that date the group ranks among the British possessions. Captain Fremantle did not steam away directly the business of the proclamation was disposed of, but the Juno remained at anchor in the atoll for three months, and the events of this prolonged stay are not likely to be soon for- gotten. It was a time of gaiety and change for all the islanders, and one that brought them into contact with much that was new to them, and it marked an eventful period in their quiet island routine of life. A curious incident happened during the stay of the Juno, as before she steamed from the lagoon in June 1857, a Russian man-o-war called in at the atoll, and seeing her there, saluted the British flag and retired, though this was presumably. not the sole object of her visit. HISTORY OF THE ATOLL, 1854-1871 29 The departure of the Jwno left Ross Secundus as a Governor of a colony under the British rule, but the change of his status was merely a nominal one, for the colony was so remote from the sovereign power, and so absolutely his own, that the Juno virtually left him as she found him, the sole appeal of law and order. Ross Secundus now set about developing the island in- dustries and carrying on the work that had been begun by his father, and this he did with great success. The islands flourished and the plantations of coconut palms increased, and everything in the colony appeared to be on the high road to prosperity. In 1862, however, one of those periodic re- verses that have been the lot of the settlement smote the islands, and a terrific cyclone wrecked the flourishing industries and laid the islands waste. The whole disaster was the work of a few hours, and yet in this short time homes were demolished, working sheds were wrecked, and the coconut palms, which were the sole source of the island’s wealth, were torn up by the roots or snapped like matchwood by the violence of the storm. The happy dream of prosperity was turned into an actuality of hardship and want, and all the philosophic patience which was the great characteristic of the life of Ross Secundus was needed to again start the building up of what was left of the little colony. He recalled his eldest son from Scotland, and with his assist- ance set out upon a vigorous endeavour to put to rights the havoe wrought by the cyclone. Soon after this event the colony was again visited by a representative of the sovereign power, for in 1864 H.MS. Serpent, a surveying ship, called at the islands. A survey of the group was conducted, and the affairs of the island were inquired into, and the damage done by the cyclone noted. From the time of the visit of the Serpent, the history of the rule of Ross Secundus appears to have been without great incident, and nothing of importance is remembered to-day as marking out the events of this period. His eldest son—the present Governor—was working with him in the islands, and a 30 CORAL AND ATOLLS great part of the administration of the settlement passed into the hands of this strenuous young man. During these years of which we have no detailed account, Ross Secundus was engaged in fostering the industries of the colony, and in perfecting the code of island laws compiled by his father. The legal code, which has been drafted by three generations of the Clunies-Ross family, is a matter for the contemplation of the modern jurist: for it has stood the stress of many crises, it has risen triumphant to meet several curious emergencies, and has proved equal to all the strains imposed upon it. In the framing of these laws Ross Secundus took delight, and with his son, a man of strong and vigorous policy, to act with him and carry on the work of the islands, he passed in a great measure from the active administration of the colony into a position of passive headship. | As well as a special aptitude in the details of legal enact- ments, Ross Secundus had a great inclination for the practice of medicine, and he became the physician of the islands. He had, of course, no medical training, but he was an ardent practitioner of such simple methods as were requisite for the combating of the sicknesses of coral island life, and the hygienic welfare of his people was his first care. Some extra- ordinary cures are credited to him, and he enjoyed a very exalted reputation among the people asa clever doctor and a marvellous healer. For all this, and for his patient researches into the natural history of the islands, he received the native title of Zwan- pandai, or “ the learned one,” and to this day a cowry shell, in whose finding he took special delight, is called siput tuan (the master’s shell) by the natives. There can be no doubt that his philosophic bent of mind has caused but scant justice to be done to his character by those who have from time to time told the island story. He has been pictured by his biographers as a dreamer, and one to whom the practical details of life were of so little concern that he passed his days in idle speculation, to the detriment of HISTORY OF THE ATOLL, 1854-1871 31 the settlement and the people. But the philosopher was a man of action too, for no one who dreams only may rule a settlement of two hundred Malays, many of whom were of chain-gang blood, in an atoll seven hundred miles from land. The closing days of the life of Ross Secundus were spent in the enjoyment of the society of his family, and in the investigation of the natural resources of his islands. In 1841 he had married S’pia Dupong, a Malay lady of Royal Solo blood, and a woman of the most remarkable force of character. There are many stories told of her bravery and loyalty, and she exerted a great and beneficial influence over the people. She became the chief moral guide in the atoll, all her deeds echoed the nobility and generosity of her nature, and she always upheld with proud and unswerving loyalty the traditions of the old Malay stock. To her nine children were born, and, though she died many years before her lord, her name is one — that will long be remembered in the islands, for she was a good and a brave woman. In 1872 Ross Secundus contracted Java fever. What- ever the true nature of that complaint may be, it is one that runs a fatal course with great rapidity; he succumbed to it after a brief illness, and was buried in Pulu Selma. His grave lies near to that of his father, and his memory as a wise and kindly ruler is dearly cherished by all the islanders. CHAPTER V HISTORY OF THE ATOLL FROM 1871 Or the nine children born to Ross Secundus, seven were sons: George, Charles, Edwin, Alfred, Alexander, Andrew, and John; and two were daughters: Isabella and Eliza. George Clunies-Ross, the eldest child, was born in 1842, and at the age of 30 he was called upon to take charge of the islands, and guide the destinies of the colony after the death of his father, He had not been very many years in the islands with his father before he was called upon to take sole charge, for he only left Scotland and his studies in engineering to come to the settlement and render assistance in repairing the great destruction wrought in the atoll by the cyclone of 1862. George Clunies-Ross—Ross Tertius—was educated at Eliza- beth College in Guernsey, and afterwards he proceeded to Glasgow, where he took up, with great success, a course of engi- neering. This advantage of a practical Scottish education he shared with all his six brothers, for it had been the wise decision of his father to send all his boys to Edinburgh or to St. Andrews. The advantage Ross Tertius received, and that has stood him in such good stead, he has in his turn handed on, and all his four sons have been to Scotland for their education, Dollar and Edinburgh having known most of them. Ross Tertius came to the atoll, a young man of the most energetic nature and in the most active period of his life, and very soon it was apparent in the islands that in him the spirit of Ross Primus, with all his courage and fortitude, was back again to rule and guide the colony. From the study of books and machinery he passed to the study of the ruling of natives, and no better student ever 32 HISTORY OF THE ATOLL FROM 1871 33 set out to learn a subject the right understanding of which is given to very few. It was not enough for him that his mind was stored with knowledge of matters never even imagined by his people; it was not enough that he was familiar with the construction of engines of the existence of which they did not dream, but he early determined that what the natives could do he would do too, and he would do better than any of them. It is difficult to speak of the accomplishment of this self- imposed task without enthusiasm, for on their own ground he met the natives, he learned all their crafts, and in the per- formance of them he excelled them all. George Ross, who came to the atoll an ardent engineer and a student of books, had soon learned to cast the Jala-net and throw a fish-spear with greater accuracy than any one of his subjects; and to this day his pre-eminent skill remains. He learned to know the native character in all its details, good and evil, and in addition to his keen natural intuition, and his shrewd judg- ments of his fellow men, he came to possess a wonderful power to fathom the devious ways of the Asiatic mind which make for faithful devotion, or lifelong enmity towards the man who reads or misreads them. The knowledge that Ross Tertius gained from the study of the natives was soon called into requisition, for during the closing days of the reign of Ross Secundus trouble broke out among a section of the imported Bantamese coolies. A series of law-breakings and disturbances culminated in the particularly brutal murder of a woman at the hands of the ringleader of the Bantam malcontents. It was a time for action, and George Ross’ blocd was afire to avenge the woman’s death, and to restore order and obedience to. authority. He begged permission from his father to go in search of the man, that he might execute prompt justice upon him, but Ross Secundus was a man of more judicial instinct, and forbade any sudden and violent form of vengeance. George Ross promised his father that if he went off into the bush to find the murderer, and to avenge the death of the © 34 CORAL AND ATOLLS unfortunate woman, no word would ever come to his ears of what might happen at the meeting. But this did not satisfy the father’s conscience, and milder methods were adopted. Diplomacy did not succeed, and the discontented coolies assumed a threatening attitude. The climax was reached when, in an angry meeting outside the Governor's house, George Ross faced the blood-guilty leader of the malcontents. The people seemed out of hand, and the ringleader made ene step towards George Ross. Things were at high tension, and swift action could alone save the situation and the lives of those in authority. Ross Tertius acted on the instant and struck the man to the ground with a cutlass before the eyes of all the people. This prompt action produced an instantaneous effect upon the malcontents, and with the loyal co-operation of the Cocos- born natives, the gang was broken up, and the wretched murderer was handed over to the authorities in Java. This event did not long precede the death of Ross Secundus, and the command that Ross Tertius had gained over the natives stood him in good stead when the difficult duty of taking sole charge devolved upon him. At his father’s death, George Ross did not tacitly assume the Governorship, but calling all the people together he spoke to them, discussing the affairs of the islands and asked them to elect their ruler. The islanders were not slow to make their choice, and George Ross was duly installed as the elected Governor of the islands. He set about his duties with great resolution, and soon, under his guiding hand, the islands reached a pitch of prosperous tranquillity that they had not known before. George Ross had already followed the example of his father in making himself more qualified to act in every way as the friend of his subjects by marrying a wife from among his own people. The lady who became his wife and the mother of his numerous children was named Inin, and she was a member of one of the original high-born Malay families that came to the islands with the pioneer. She was in every way fitted to be the wife of such a man as he, for she was as HISTORY OF THE ATOLL FROM 1871 35 brave as he was, and as loyal: and she it was who saved his life on more than one oceasion. Like S’pia Dupong, she was a woman of great and good influence over the natives, and nothing unseemly was done by them, lest she should be offended, and nothing ill-mannered, lest she should condemn the act. In this way the influence of Inin was an extremely fortunate thing for the islands, for though it may be done in silence, and is apt to find but little place in a chronicle of the doings of men, the influence of a good woman may do works as great as those accomplished by the acts of a brave man. _In every way Inin helped her husband in his task of making the colony happy and prosperous, and while he ruled the men with his masterful will, she stood as law for the women, and ruled them by her example; and she ruled them well. The industries of the place rapidly improved, and George Ross and his wife took it upon themselves to teach their people and to guide them as if they had all been members of their own family. The planting of coconut palms was carried out on a large scale, work was organised, and many new schemes laid down. Four years saw the whole aspect of the colony changed; for the Governor introduced modern methods into the working of his islands, and instructed his people in the use of European tools and appliances. He imported and set up machinery, built brick factories for the preparation of coconut oil, which was then the staple product of the islands, The prepared oil was sent to Java to be used as lamp-oil, for at that time all the lighthouses of the Malay Archipelago were lit up by the oil brought from Cocos-Keeling. Under his careful management, George Ross had the satisfaction of seeing his home cease to be a mere jungle-clad ring of islands, and become a place of ordered and fertile groves of coconut palms; and at the end of the first four years of his charge, everything was smiling on him and his colony. But in 1876, on January 25, the blow fell, and all the efforts of his four years of patient and loving toil were brought to naught by the passing of a cyclone. The cyclone of 1876 was one of 36 CORAL AND ATOLLS the most severe that has ever visited the atoll, and it wrought extraordinary havoc in the settlement. Coconut palms were twisted and snapped off, and trundled before the wind like ninepins, so that the fury of the storm cut large glades through tbe plantations, often in most capricious fashion. Extra- ordinary freaks were played by the storm, for whilst it laid whole areas bare, others, quite close at hand, remained un- harmed ; and trees were selected as victims for its fury in the most haphazard manner. Atap roofs were snatched from houses and carried away, working sheds were laid low, and the factories so carefully constructed. under the new régime were ruined. A portion of iron from the roof of the Governor’s house was whirled away by the storm, and made a plaything of the wind, and to-day the scars are to be seen upon a large tree, deep in the trunk of which it finally came to rest. The destruction caused by the wind did not account for the whole of the ruin, for the seas became tremendous, and overrode the limits of the barrier, carrying before them the wreckage of all that they could reach. Life was preserved with difficulty, and, when the storm was spent, the stricken islanders had but little to comfort themselves with save what each man stood up in, and the wreckage of his possessions. Thus were the fruits of George Ross’ four years of work dissipated in the brief visitation of the storm, and the prosperous and smiling settlement was turned to a scene of desolation and misery. But although the tropical islands are liable to these sudden catastrophes, there is no place in which nature is so quick to efface the effects of the damage and to repair the loss that the few hours of storm can cause. Neither was George Ross the type of man to despair in the presence of this reverse, and once again he put all his energies into the building up of the prosperity of the settlement. So well did he succeed in this, that when, in 1879, Dr. H. O. Vorbes visited the atoll he found a happy and contented colony on the high road to the recovery of its lost fortunes. HISTORY OF THE ATOLL FROM 1871 37 In 1878 the islands underwent a political change, which, like the annexation of 1857, made but little difference to the internal affairs of the settlement. In November 1878 a proclamation was issued to the effect that the Cocos-Keeling islands were annexed for the purposes of administration to the Government of Ceylon, “to prevent any foreign Power step- ping in and taking possession of them for the purposes of settlement or for a coaling station.” This change was the outcome, so it is said, of a report that Russian agents had been examining the atoll and its neigh- bourhood. Letters patent were granted to George Clunies- Ross, and until the visit of H.M.S. Zephyr, eight years after- wards, the Government of Ceylon remained as the immediate appeal for the settlers. In August 1885, H.M.S. Hspoir arrived at the rece and Mr. KE. W. Birch went ashore to make a thorough examination of the colony on behalf of the Government of the Straits Settlements. The outcome of this visit is a very interesting record of the condition of the settlement at the time, but Mr. Birch did not meet George Ross, for at that time he was absent from the islands on the first visit he had made to Kurope since his arrival in the colony. This first journey home was one of the most remarkable achievements of Ross Tertius, and was a piece of hardy enter- prise, the full reality of which it is very hard to picture. When to-day we make ocean journeys in powerful, punctual steamers, it is difficult to realise the daring of George Ross, who built his own ship, and sailed her half round the globe, that he might take his children home to be educated. During the life of his father the vessel had been laid down, and her design was the outcome of a great amount of thought and careful attention to detail, but the rate of her building was of necessity slow. She was a schooner of one hundred and seventy-eight tons, built in thorough Cocos fashion, with every minute detail laboured over until there was no part of her that was not perfect. The building of boats in Cocos is an object-lesson in these days of hurried 38 CORAL AND ATOLLS business and scamped detail, and no vessels more thoroughly seaworthy than these island-built boats were ever launched. No wood is bent or strained in their making, and every piece in their shell is cut from the natural curve of long- seasoned ironwood, for the Cocos islander is content to spend weeks on the fitting of a part whose making could be done in an hour by less thorough methods. All the skilled work of the islanders and all the best material of the islands was put into the construction of the schooner, and for patient years they laboured on her. In 1884 she was ready on the stocks, was christened the J. G. C\-Ross, and launched as the islanders’ triumph. In Iebruary of 1884, George Ross sailed from the lagoon. Aboard the schooner he had put his seven eldest children— four little boys and three little girls; and taking his brother Andrew as his officer, and some Coces-born men to work the ship, he started on his remarkable cruise. The islanders all turned out to see their Zuan sail away in their own schooner to visit the outer world, and it was a moment of pride for the colony ; a moment only equalled when they learned afterwards that their handiwork had been examined by the Board of Trade in London and classed as Al at Lloyd’s for eighteen years. Throughout the whole length of the journey, George Ross and his brother kept watch and watch about; and as a testimony to their seamanship is the fact that, from the day on which she left the lagoon to the time of her arrival in port, she did not once have her mainsail lowered, although in her journey she encountered all sorts of weather. A stay of three weeks was made at the Cape, and one of a few days at St. Helena, and in August the J. G. C.-Ross arrived in the Thames. All hands were well, no mishap had taken place on the voyage, and George Ross took his seven children ashore and made arrangements for their education. In every way it was a remarkable achievement, and the six months’ navigating and alternate watching must have proved a severe strain on any man, but when to this was HISTORY OF THE ATOLL FROM 1871 39 added the care of seven young children, this deed of Ross Tertius excites the greatest admiration. Having seen to the requirements of his little family, and obtained an English captain to assist his brother Andrew in sailmg the schooner to the atoll again, George Ross pro- ceeded on his travels, returning to his island home by way ot America, The adventures of the J. G. C.-Ross were not ended with her safe arrival in the atoll, for eight years after her happy launching she passed mysteriously from the island story. The tale of her going is a curious one, and is worth recording as one of those real sea romances that are often more strange than any of those that find their way into books. Karly in February of 1892, an Italian barque, bearing the name Lwiyi Raffo, with a crew of mixed nationalities, put into the atoll. She was said to be on a journey from Java to Antwerp, end she arrived at the islands in a leaking con- dition. Soon after she had cast her anchor, a strong swell from the N.E. arose, and the maimed and unseaworthy ship was driven upon the rocks and wrecked. Her crew, which consisted of eighteen of the very roughest sort of sailor-men, were thrown upon George Ross’ hands, and it was not long before they began to give him very serious trouble. They created disorder in the villages, set a bad example to the natives, and in every way became such a nuisance in the place that there was nothing for it but to send them packing. The Governor placed the J. @. C.-Ross at their disposal, put aboard, for their safe-conduct, a Norwegian captain and eight of his best Cocos-born men. On February 29 they sailed from the lagoon, and before Andrew Ross, who piloted her out, had left her side, the ruffians had fallen to quarrelling. Her destination was Batavia, and her return was looked for with anixety, but from that day to this no word of her has ever come to the islands. Batavia never saw her. No mast or spar was ever picked up, nor was she ever identified afloat in any part of the world. What happened to her no man has ever told, but in the 40 CORAL AND ATOLLS islands the belief is that the Cocos men and their captain were put overboard, and the Italians disguised her and sailed away. There are features in the case that lend a probability to this view, for when inquiries were made, it was found that the ship named Luigi Raffo was quietly lying in Genoa at the time of her supposed wreck upon the reef of Cocos- Keeling. It would appear as though the ship in which the Italians came was a pirated and disguised one, and it would be no surprise to many people in the atoll to find the J. G. C.- ftoss still afloat under a new name. But her loss was a heavy one, and a great blow to George Ross and all his people, and nine gocd men went with her and left their wives to mourn. George Ross did not return to the islands in time to be present at the visit of H.M.S. Hspoir in 1885, and so the visit of representatives of the Straits Settlements Government was carried out in his absence. Nevertheless Mr. Birch amassed a great deal of valuable information concerning the atoll, and the report that he furnished to the Government is one of the best accounts of the conditions of the place that have been put on record. In August 1886, H.M.S. Zephyr made a visit of inspection with the object of granting to George Ross new letters patent, revoking those of September 10, 1878, by which the islands had been placed under the Government of Ceylon. On Tuesday, August 24, 1886, the new letters patent were read to the people by Mr. A. P. Talbot. The ceremonies of 1875 were repeated, the Union Jack was hoisted, and a party of British bluejackets gave the royal salute and fired a feu-de-joie. A proclamation was given to the people and the Governor of the Straits Settlements was made their overlord, while a grant-in-fee of the islands was given to George Clunies-Ross. Since that time the visits of British men- o’-war have been fairly regular, and each succeeding Commis- sioner has noted the progress of the settlement and the beneficence of the Governor’s rule. The settlement of Cocos-Keeling had now become a peaceful colony devoted to the quiet development of the HISTORY OF THE ATOLL FROM 1871 41 natural resources of the atoll; the strenuous times of its early days were past, and George Ross and his wife became more than ever the father and mother. of the people rather than their rulers. George Ross, and his brothers Charles and Andrew, taught the men useful trades, and the carpenters of the islands are not easily to be matched among Malay people. Black- smith’s forges were set up, and kilns for the burning of coral boulders into lime were made, and soon there was but little that the island colony could not produce for its own immediate wants. Good dwelling-houses were erected, and rat-proof stores were constructed of bricks and mortar so that large stocks of rice could be kept in the islands, as a reserve, for use in times of any shortage caused by the delay of the island schooner. The people were encouraged in manly sports, and recular tournaments were held, at which throwing the spear and diving were keenly contested competitions. In these contests, George Ross far excelled the best of his people. The love of the Malay for his boats, his knives, and his spears was fostered, with the result that boat-building has reached a very high pitch of development, and the men have become the handiest boatmen and the most skilful spearers of fish to be met anywhere. Whilst George Ross was doing all this for the men, his wife was training the women. She took the girls to her own house and educated them thoroughly in domestic duties, teaching them ideals of moral conduct and habits of neatness and thrift. It is difficult to over-estimate the success that has attended these efforts, or to exaggerate the degree of contented pros- perity which reigned in the islands. By 1888 so great a peace had spread over the settlement that George Ross looked for other fields for the expansion of his colony. On several occasions parties had gone from the atoll and sailed to Christmas Island, which lies some five hundred and twenty-five miles to the north and east of Cocos-Keeling. The extraordinary fertility of this uninhabited place, and its vast flocks of absolutely unsuspecting birds, were sufficient to tempt any man to make the passage, and it was no uncommon 42 CORAL AND ATOLLS thing for George Ross to take a party of his men to camp upon Christmas Island. Expeditions were made to bring home some of the valuable timber that grew in such abundance on every mountain-slope of this fine island, and the advantages of a permanent settlement there were apparent to the Governor. In 1888 he therefore took his brother Andrew and a party of Cocos-born men, and making a clearing in the neighbourhood of Flying Fish Cove, he built houses and work-sheds and laid the foundations of a colony. The little band of colonists set to work at once : coffee and coco palms were planted, the island supply of fresh water was conserved and wells were made for its storing. It seemed to George Ross that his ideals were to be realised, and that here he had a territory which did not know the confines of a few miles of barrier reef, and could at the most provide a livelihood for a few hundred active men. Christmas Island was clothed with virgin forests to the top of its plateau a thousand feet above the water-line, and it had never been inhabited or in any way exploited ; it was a field for unlimited enterprise, and for the expansion of the Cocos-Keeling colony. George Ross was a happy man; he dreamed of subjects to be numbered by thousands instead of by hundreds, and a suffi- ciency of hardy enterprise and pioneer work to shape the man- hood of his people for many years to come. He at once took steps to obtain a legal tenure of the island, and in 1889 he made application to the Straits Settlements Government for a grant of land there. But he had not reckoned with the business instincts of men situated nearer to the sources of information than he himself was in his out-of-the-way corner of the earth. Specimens of the rocks of the island, collected by Captain Aldrich of H.M.S. “yeria, and by George Ross himself, had been submitted to experts at home, and found to consist of nearly pure phosphate of lime. The greed of wealth would not allow the world to sanc- tion an idealist like George Ross to establish a rural Utopia upon an island, the whole extent of the surface of which could be shovelled into the holds of ships and sold for high prices. HISTORY OF THE ATOLL FROM 1871 438 As aresult of the negotiations, the Governor, in his secluded coral islands, had to give way to the men of business instincts at home, and in 1891 he became merely a part owner of a lease of the island. It was the beginning of the end of his daughter colony, for in 1897 the working of the island was taken over by the British Christmas Island Phosphate Company. The plantations of Liberian coffee, of bananas, and pepper had to go before the advance of machinery and the spoiler. One thousand Chinese coolies replaced the colony of Cocos-born Malays, and Sikh policemen kept order in a land where for a time the opinion of one man had been sufficient guarantee of good conduct. Before the inrush of all the turmoil of wealth-getting, the wonderful fauna has had to give way. The unique rat (Jus Mucleari) has been utterly destroyed, and the Christmas Island fruit pigeon (Carpophaga Whartoni) is fast following in its footsteps. Christmas Island has become a remarkably successful commercial undertaking, but as a preserve for an interesting and isolated fauna, and as an ideal place for a peaceful Malay settlement, its day has passed. George Ross and his Cocos men have withdrawn from the island; they have abandoned for ever the scheme of their plantations and their larger colony, and centred all their energies on perfecting their home in Cocos-Keeling. The Governor has busied himself with designing and erecting a fine house for himself, which is a monument to his patience and skill. He has imported building material from England and, with his own masons and carpenters, he has moulded upon his own designs a house the perfect con- struction of which is his pride. He has built turtle ponds and boat harbours, made good paths, laid down trolly lines, and generally improved the island of his residence so that it is a model of neatness and good order. He has portioned out the work amongst his brothers and sons, so that each man has his duty, and every detail receives attention. It would be difficult to find anywhere a better 44 CORAL AND ATOLLS ordered or more contented community than that of Cocos- Keeling, and everything about the settlement shows clearly the imprint of his master hand. Every scheme is his, and every detail of its execution is the object of his thought, and the outlet for his energies; and to this day George Ross remains a man as quick to think, and as ready to act upon the thought, as in the day upon which he felled the murderer and won the hearts of his people. In 1889 Inin his wife died, to the sorrow of the whole population, and it was not until 6 years after that he married Ayesha, his present wife. ; In 1901 the quiet seclusion of his island home was some- what broken by the advent of the cable, and its necessary staff of workers, to Pulu Tikus; but the presence of visitors from the outside world has not in any way upset the peaceful routine of coral island life. Cable routes run to Pulu Tikus from Perth in Australia, from Mauritius and Africa, and from Batavia in Java; and so the news of all the world is known in this quiet spot. Yet so remote is Cocos and its settlement that even the busy messages of politics and commerce merely pass across its coral shores, and leave it still with all its wonted aloofness from the world and its strivings. George Ross is still the one man in Cocos, and Cocos and its men still possess the same detachment from the world that has been their characteristic for the last 80 years, and it is to be hoped that for long this state of things may remain. Coined money is still unknown, for the parchment notes of George Ross are the sole medium of exchange; crime hardly exists, and without police or military, perfect order prevails. To chronicle a tithe of the doings of George Ross is impossible, for the life of the man has been a succession of stirring scenes, in every one of which he has been the central figure, and in every one of which he has played a man’s part. A strong man and a good one, he has the rare privilege of seeing his work perfected, and of recognising in every corner of his home the order and prosperity he has brought about by his life’s” work, and the peace that he may long be spared to enjoy. ‘SOMIMG ATAd NO NOWIVLIS Hd VEIOTTAL CAL LO MOTVONOST T ALV Id CHAPTER VI NATIVE CUSTOMS THERE are many customs practised by the natives of Cocos- Keeling which are of peculiar interest, for, in common with all Malays, they show in their ceremonies a curious mixture of practices that are entirely foreign to their professed creed of Islam. At any time the Malay is but a lukewarm adherent to the orthodox religion, and it must be owned that the Cocos Islander does not come any nearer to the Islamic ideal of strict observances than do most of his kin. The doctrines of the Koran are taught to them and they are professed Mohammedans, but, like all their race, they show clearly in their customs strong evidence of a pre-Islamic nature-worship. They have a densely populated spirit world, the inhabi- tants of which are apt to intrude themselves into ceremonies of purely Islamic origin, and at times almost as much attention is paid to the requirements of the spirits as to the details prescribed by the orthodox religion. The hour of twilight is the one in which the denizens of the spirit world are apt to be abroad; it is a dangerous time for delicate folk and children, but for the woman who is pregnant it has the most terrors, and she must not be out of doors unless she carries a knife in her hand. It is out of deference to the spirits of animals that neither she nor her husband may kiil any animal, for if the blood of any creature is spilled at this time, vengeance will be visited upon the unfortunate offspring. Concerning the reality of the visitation, there are many strange stories current in the atoll, and the doctrine of the potency of maternal impressions is one that always finds a ready credence 45 46 CORAL AND ATOLLS in Malay communities. Spirits play an active part in all the ceremonies and observances connected with the birth of a child, and special precautions are taken to keep evil spirits far away from new-born babies. Beneath the pillow upon which the baby lies is hidden a parang—the ever-ready knife of the Malay—and in the bed itself is placed a little broom, as a warning to noxious spirits that they must keep far from the child. The custom of placing a knife in the child’s bed is very widespread through- out the world, and it even exists in some parts of England and Wales. If, by some visitation of evil influence, an island baby . chances to be born malformed, the handiwork of the devil is at once recognised, and steps are taken to undo the mischief wrought by Satan. The observances practised at the birth of a malformed child are curious, and concerning their utility— or the reverse—all argument is vain, for no one may convince people who have seen and known these things, the workings of which are the expected outcomes of their recognised cause. A woman who gives birth to a child that is in any way deformed does not immediately begin to deplore her hard fate, or to assume that the harm that is done is beyond repair, for she recognises that the devil has done the mischief, and she knows that if she sets properly about the thing she may make him undo his handiwork. No notice whatever is taken of the unfortunate child, but it is covered with a cloth and placed aside; the mother and the midwife discuss any general topics of conversation and try to pretend that nothing has happened. All concerned are determined that they will take no notice of the child while it bears upon its body the imprint of Satan’s evil visitation. And, as a rule, the trick succeeds, for when at length the babe is uncovered, the deformity is gone, and the child is as strong and as whole as though it had never carried on its frame the manifestations of Satan’s influence. I know a little boy whose head is shaped just as are the heads of other little boys, and yet, when he came into the NATIVE CUSTOMS 47 world, it was to present to his horrified mother a visage surmounted by two large protuberances like hen’s eggs—and indeed eggs had been much in her mind of late. But he was covered up and ignored, and the mother’s ruse succeeded: for her next look at her babe revealed only the rounded scatp and puckered red face common to all new-born babies. Other instances too are quoted in the islands, and cases of webbed fingers and clubbed feet seem easily amenable to this treatment. Little children die—even on coral islands this cannot be prevented—and evil spirits are mostly at the bottom of it, and the knowledge of the influence of the spirits gives origin to a very curious custom, A woman who has had the misfortune to lose her baby suspects that the devil has a design upon her and her offspring—and a continuance of her trials only con- firms her suspicions. If child after child is born only to die of infantile complaints, she knows that it has been decreed by the evil one that she shall not rear her baby, and so when next a child is born to her she pretends that it is not hers and places it in the road where some one is sure to see it before long. The expected happens, for some other woman passing by sees the bundle, and, knowing the meaning of its presence, picks it up and carries the baby to her house. She mixes the child among her own children, and cares for it, and pretends that it is hers; and in this way the devil loses sight of the child and. lets it grow up, forgetting that it is the offspring of a mother upon whom his curse was set. The same idea underlies the custom which is prevalent in the islands of changing altogether the name by which a man has always been known, after he has recovered from a serious illness. A man who is smitten with a great sickness, and has been near to death, feels that it would be unlucky to rise from his bed still bearing the name by which the spirits knew him when such ill-fortune befell him, and so he takes a new name when he recovers; and goes among his fellow men known by a different title from that under which he passed when he was smitten. 48 CORAL AND ATOLLS One of the oldest retainers of the Clunies-Ross family—a fine man of mixed Zulu blood—whom I always knew as Ali, began life as “ Tredin,” but the “ Tredin ” was dropped, and never used again, after he had narrowly escaped death from fever. The recovery from sickness is not, however, the only occasion upon which a Cocos native indulges in a change of name, for when the first child is born to a man and woman they straightway drop their names and take as their own the name they bestow upon their infant. The man prefixes “ Pah” to his child’s name and the woman prefixes “ Mah” ; and by the compounded names they are known henceforth. For instance, a man named Jenal married a woman named Itam, but when their child was born and had been named Angas, the father was ever after known as “ Pah Angas” and the mother as “ Mah Angas.” It might be imagined that this custom would create con- fusion, and lead to a great deal of uncertainty as to an individual’s real name, but as a matter of fact it works out quite well in practice, and leads to no inconvenience. More- over it possesses the advantage of conferring a desirable dignity on parenthood. A child that has survived the chances of spirit inter- ference during its babyhood has no important event to look forward to until the rite of circumcision is carried out. This ceremony takes place as a rule at about the age of ten, and the time of its performance depends upon the boy's proficiency in reciting from the Koran. Since the Koran is learned in Arabic, a language foreign to the Malay, the performance is not a test of great scholarship or great piety, and the recital consists merely of committing a certain number of verses to memory. ‘The boy is gaudily dressed for the occasion, and he is decked out as only brides and bridegrooms are: like them he has his face painted, and his eyes adorned with a monstrous pair of black eyebrows. The feasting and cele- brations are kept up,for three days, and at the end of the rejoicings the boy is considered a man, who henceforth must wear trousers. The transition to trousers 1s more abrupt NATIVE CUSTOMS | 49 for the little Cocos boy than for his western brother, for it consists in a sudden change from nakedness to the wearing of the fully developed garments of manhood. He loses too his happy privilege of bathing in a state of nature, for no Cocos man or woman ever thinks of entering the water un- clothed, and no more modest race exists than the dignified Malay. The boy now turns out to work with the men, and takes his part in all the business of the island as a fully grown member of society. He is now free to marry, but he generally waits until he is some years older, for it has been the wise policy of the Governor to attempt to put a stop to very early marriages among the people. The youngest bride that I knew of was a girl named Denning, who married at twelve, and the youngest bridegroom one ''arie, who was fifteen years old: but notwith- standing the disfavour in which early marriage is held, Cocos has had the honour of possessing a grandmother at the early age of twenty-eight. The wedding is the grandest of all the island ceremonies. and the whole festivity is a long-protracted affair, and one in which much polite etiquette is essential. When two people fall in love, it is not the custom for the intending bridegroom to propose to the lady, but all the negotiations are carried out by his father with due formalities. The betrothal is arranged by the young man’s father calling upon the parents of the maiden and offering a present—the Mas kawen—which is generally of gold, and usually nowadays takes the shape of English sovereigns. If the match is pleasing to the girl’s parents the present is accepted, and the pair are considered as engaged, and they proceed to set about the preparations for their marriage. Should one of the parents of the intended bride be dead, a strange custom is practised: upon the day before that fixed for the wedding the young couple go to the grave of the dead parent, and announce the fact that they are betrothed, so that the spirit of the departed one may be a party to their D 50 CORAL AND ATOLLS contract. Upon the day of the wedding the best friend of the bridegroom gathers all his male friends together and goes to the bridegroom’s house, and after decking him out in finery and painting his face a hideous yellow, leads him out to make an attack upon the bride’s house. The bridegroom is truly a pitiful sight, for he is crowned with quaint headgear and adorned with flowers, his face is ghastly yellow with kuwnyet (turmeric), and is painted with double eyebrows and a false moustache. But he is the centre of attraction, and he walks proudly out, sheltered beneath an umbrella carried by his best man. There is much firing of guns and shouting, and a warlike spirit prevails among the young companions of the bridegroom. Some go ahead and practise mimic sword-play, and all are gaily dressed and in high spirits, eager to take their places in the procession as it threads its way towards the bride’s house. When the house is reached, the best of the fun begins, and the gun-fire becomes brisker and the noise louder, until at length the bridegroom mounts the house steps to claim his bride. But this is not made easy for him; his future mother- in-law rushes out to repulse his entry, and offers a brief but stubborn resistance to him and his young men ;—for it is her part to defend her daughter. . When she fancies that she has resisted long enough, she eracefully yields, and then she welcomes her son-in-law, and leads him to the bride. The bride awaits him in the house, and,in token of her submission to her future lord, takes water in which rose petals and sweet-scented flowers are steeped, and, with due humility, washes his feet. The rejoicing now reaches its climax, and all who can gain entry into the house crowd in and join in singing and feasting and general merry- making of a very orderly and dignified character. During the singing, the bride and bridegroom sit on the floor with a pillow placed between them, and they eat, with great solemnity, from a dish containing rujak, a very pleasant mixture made of unripe fruit of various kinds compounded with sugar, salt, vinegar, and chillies, the presence of which at the wedding cere- NATIVE CUSTOMS > 51 mony is essentially symbolic. The eating of rujas: signifies that these two young people, who sit sc solemnly on the floor, are preparing to enter into the bond in which they may taste together all the sweets and bitters of life; but I have not heard of any man who, coming upon too much chilli, gained timely experience from the rujak. When the singing is over and much incense has been burned, the bride and bridegroom rise from the floor, and set out side by side from the house on a journey to the parents of the bridegroom. An umbrella is held over each of them, and the procession forms for the return visit. Upon the house steps, the bridegroom’s mother awaits the couple, and when they have mounted to the threshold, she takes a long scarf, called a slendang, and ties them together round the middle, in the sight of all the people. The happy couple stand face to face, with their noses almost touching, whilst the bridegroom’s mother produces rice, boiled and stained with Awnyet, and solemnly feeds them with a spoon. It is really a curious sight, for the queer expres- sion that the false eyebrows lend to the pale yellow faces gives the young couple rather a sadly comic aspect, and the business of feeding with a spoon two people tied nose to nose is apt to appear ludicrous to a crude Westerner. The festivities are now continued in the house of the bridegroom’s parents, but, in the feasting that follows, the poor young people take no part, for they sit solemnly aside, with very demure faces, until the whole business flags and comes to an end at about four o'clock in the morning. After this very trying ordeal, they adjourn to their own house, if they have one, or, if not, to the house of either of their parents; and they embark upon their career of married life. It is easy to see in the procedure of the marriage cere- mony the remains of the more primitive marriage customs of the original tribal bands of the Malay stock. The mimic warfare of the capture of the bride, and the feigned resistance of her mother, are mere pale ghosts of the practices of the days in which a man sallied out from his home, and, with the 52 CORAL AND ATOLLS help of his friends, captured a maiden from the company of a neighbouring tribe. The bridegroom’s friend was his assistant in the raid, and to-day the descendant of the brother raider is seen, in our own weddings, as the best man, though custom has long since spared him the ordeal of making sword- Gale A WrEpDING GRoUP IN COCcOS-KEELING. The bride and bridegroom are wearing the flower-decked headgear. play, or firmg blank charges in the direction of the bride’s mother. Just as our best man is scen on a glorified scale in these Cocos wedding ceremonies, so is the custom of sending out wedding cake to absent friends displayed in its archaic form at the feasts of the Malays. The food that is to be used at the wedding feast—or indeed at any other ceremony of general NATIVE CUSTOMS 53 rejoicing—is first blessed by the Jmam (priest), and then ‘distributed amongst those present, the blessing of the food being an essential and a religious function. The food that is blessed is, however, not all consumed at the feast, for por- tions of it are sent to all the friends and relations who were unable to be present at the rejoicings, in order that they may share in the blessings and goodwill to be derived from these occasions. The blessed food is called drekat, and custom dictates that the utensils in which the brekat was distri- buted shall be returned unwashed to the givers of the feast. The sending of drekat is an important piece of etiquette, and an extremely pretty custom, and it would seem likely that our wedding cake, although unblessed, is in reality a descendant of the brekat. The other occasions of feasting, in addition to the rites of circumeision and of marriage, are the Skada bumi, the Banchahan, and the Slamatan. Skada bumi is almost an equivalent for the harvest thanks- giving, and though the Cocos Islander has but little in the way of crops to be thankful for, he still maintains his S’kada bumi with much enthusiasm. The whole island joins in this festivity, for it is one of the greatest events of the Cocos Islanders’ year, and elaborate preparations are made for it. When the feast of the Ykada bumt is over, the food that has been blessed is not all sent out as brekat to the living, but some is kept reserved for spirits. Little wicker baskets are prepared, and hung up in the branches of the trees, that the spirits may come and take the food that has been blessed, and so be partakers in the feast. The custom is evidently a very ancient one designed to make offerings to the spirits of the various crops and of the elements, and the human feasting, though at the present time the dominant feature of the ceremony, is probably a secondary thing. The Slamatan is a feast given as a thanksgiving in honour of an individual, a prayer for his safe-keeping, or a thanksgiving for his safe return; the trips made by the Governor to England are the greatest of the occasions for the SlJamatan to-day. 54 CORAL AND ATOLLS The Banchahan is a feast for children, and is a very pretty custom. The children all gather together in the house and courtyard of the giver of the feast; some come alone, some are carried by their mothers, and all are happy. The food is distributed to them, each child bringing a little bowl to take its share of the curry stuffs and rice, and great merriment and good-humour prevails on these occasions. When each child has shared in the feasting and merrymaking, the grown-up people take bowls of water, and all at once set about throwing the water over the crowd of children. A regular fusillade of water is kept up until, in a very short while, the elders have splashed and chased every laughing and | happy child out of the compound. Throughout the feast there is much burning of aromatic substances, and little smouldering fires are placed beneath the beds of all the children in the house, and the ashes of these little fires (abu bunchahan) are carefully preserved. Should there be an absent child in the family of the giver of the feast, his portion of the food is put into a little bowl, and placed apart upon his bed, so that he, though absent, may share in the festivities of his family. The ceremonies connected with death and burial are always of peculiar ethnological interest, and some of the customs of the Cocos Islanders are worthy of record. In common with many Hastern races, it is a strict duty among the Malays to watch by the body, from the moment that life has gone, until it is finally lowered into the grave. This duty is studiously carried out in Cocos, and in all the observances connected with burial an extreme reverence is shown for the body of the departed spirit. Immediately after death, the corpse is washed and little plugs of the fluffy natural island cotton are placed in the ears, and between the fingers. I do not know why the cotton is placed in between the fingers, nor do I know the reason for the curious practice of putting a needle into each pad, when the body is that of a woman who has died in childbirth. The origin of the custom seems lost in obscurity, but it is only one of the many NATIVE CUSTOMS 55 details of special tender regard paid to the bodies of such women. . After the washing and the insertion of the cotton-wads, the body is wrapped seven times round with linen, and all the jewellery that was worn during life is left upon the corpse and goes to the grave with it. The actual funeral always takes place by water, and the island upon which the burials are made (Pulu Gangsa) is an uninhabited one, used for no other purpose. The corpse is placed in a wicker coffin, and the funeral cortége of boats follows it to the burial island, where the ceremony is conducted by the native priest, who reads verses from the Koran as the body is lowered by ropes into the grave. The wicker coffin is not buried with the body, but the corpse, swathed around with its linen wrappings, lies stretched upon its back upon the bare coral sand; a board is placed over the features to protect them from the falling earth, and the grave is filled in. In the case of a woman, it is the custom to bury the body with the head resting upon a little pillow made up of her own hair, for a Cocos woman never throws away the hair that she combs out at her toilet. There is a deep-rooted belief in all this: it is exceedingly unlucky to leave hair lying about, since an enemy may obtain possession of it and do Jampei, or witchcraft, with it. A woman therefore always keeps her hair, and upon it she rests at last in the grave. A wooden tombstone marks each grave, and it is shaped differently in the case of men and women. The tombstone which marks a man’s grave is pointed as an arch at the top, whilst that upon a woman’s grave is square ; and in neither case is it elaborate. There seems to be no especial direction in which the grave is made, and the head is not constantly pointed in the direction of Mecca; but graves lie at all angles on the island, being made more with regard to the convenience of the site than to any geographical orientation. Upon each grave is placed a Kema (clam) shell filled with fresh water for the use of the spirit, and flowers are strewn about the grave by relatives of the deceased. The graves are carefully kept, and visits are paid to them at 56 CORAL AND ATOLLS stated intervals, as a part of a regular routine of duty. The period of mourning is determined by a very curious custom. The wicker coffin is carried, and lowered into the grave, by means of a piece of stout rope; and after the burial, the rope is carefully unravelled, and portions of it are tied about the wrists of all the relatives of the dead person. This rope bracelet is never removed, but, in course of time, it rots through and drops off, and then it is known that the time of sadness is at an end, and the spirit of the departed desires 30 more mourning. Upon the whole it must be said that a Cocos funeral is a terribly sad and affecting ceremony; the community is so small that each loss is keenly felt; the relationship so intimate that all are mourners; and the sad procession of boats to the island of burial makes the ceremony a painfully impressive one. Jip and bas ot THE CORALS AND THE CORAL PROBLEM CHAPTER VII THE EARLY STAGES OF THE LIFE-HISTORY OF THE CORALS THe myriad coral colonies that grow in such luxuriance in the warm, clear waters of Cocos-Keeling are of course the most important of all the forms of life found in the atoll, for of coral the whole place is formed, and no particle of the dry land is made of anything save the bleached fragments of dead colonies. Every island is made of boulders of coral and coral sand; every rock is coral living or dead; and every portion of the barrier reef is composed of the remains of colonies torn from their beds below the sea. There are no stones in coral islands save those brought by man, or carried floating on the roots of trees, and the most commonplace of stones have been regarded as being of enormous value in some coral islands, when chance has cast them on the beaches. Every square inch of land in the atoll is coral, and coral in its living splendour clothes the seaward sides of the islands, and carpets the lagoon, wherever the conditions for its life are favourable. Besides being of paramount importance, the coral beds are objects of very great beauty; but I think that the pictures that have been painted of the splendour of living coral are often over-coloured. The corals of the Cocos-Keeling atoll bil 58 CORAL AND ATOLLS are not rainbow-hued, but are, for the most part, ofa yellowish or greenish colour, with here and there a purple colony, and here and there a pink one. The “fairy bowers,” so often Fie. 2 described, exist only in cer- tain spots where the water is sufficiently smooth to permit the more highly branched forms to flourish. ‘lhe most abundant type of growth is in the shape of a large rounded, solid rock. It is the clearness of the water that gives the whole charm to the beauty of the coral beds, for the water is of an Fungia: Uivine SPECIMEN. indescribable blue, and so clear that the bottom is plainly to be seen in depths of over 30 feet. Through the blue water the living colonies are seen as little trees and rocks scattered about in a con- fusion of colour and form. The whole scene is made alive, by the flickering of the moving water and the darting forms of brilliant fish, In a manner that jis altogether charming; and the beauty of the whole water picture, rather than the beauty of the corals themselves, is the chief at- traction of the coral beds. Fungia: SAME SPECIMEN DEAD AND Some of the corals are DRiep. hard, and their colonies form massive boulders or branching stony growths (Zoantharia), and some are soft and fleshy (Alcyonacea), and these spread out upon the rocks very much after the fashion of the fungi Ji, Bt. KARLY LIFE-HISTORY OF CORALS — 59 growing on trees. As only the stony colonies are of any importance as reef-builders, they alone will be discussed. It must not be imagined that the hard corals are dead things, or that a great stony boulder of Porites is merely a mausoleum upon whose surface life is flourishing. The coral that we are accustomed to see in its dried and bleached form is only the skeleton of a colony of zooids, each of which has its separate parts, although it is only a member of a great compound body. All corals do not live in colonies, and many species of solitary corals are to be found about a reef. The comparison of a living solitary coral with the skeleton that remains after it is dead will give the best idea of the true nature of the specimens called “corals” in museums. The individual coral zooid is most like a common sea-anemone, and if an anemone be imagined to develop a calcareous skeleton, this skeleton would be very much like what remains when a solitary coral is dried and bleached. A vast aggregation of these skeletons, all very minute and all joined together in the form of a boulder, or a branching erowth, constitutes what we know as “coral.” There are many problems connected with the production of this “ coral” and with the life-histories of the corals themselves, but of a great many of the most important details knowledge is strangely lacking. How far all the myriad forms to be found upon a reef are to be considered as separate species, or only as mere varieties, is a point still open to debate; and a vast amount of work remains to be done before the question may be definitely settled. The methods of feeding, of growing, and of reproducing— in fact all the life-functions of the corals—are but very little understood, for corals are usually studied when dead and dried in museums. It is for this reason that any work done actually upon a living reef is likely to help in the solution of vexed questions, for no real knowledge of corals is likely to come from the study of their dead remains, when far removed 60 CORAL AND ATOLLS from the site on which they grew and from the actions of all those forces which influenced their growth. Unfortunately it is common to measure the truth of observations made in the field by the knowledge that has been already gleaned from the uncertain data of museum Fie. 4. Montipora CoLoNy, Livine. specimens, and until this state of things is changed corals will continue to be unpopular subjects for investigation with people who have the opportunities of studying their forms when alive. The maze of literature that has been written upon the description of corals—often in necessary ignorance of any of the conditions of their life and growth—is devoid of any general interest, and is not very helpful. Observations must be made upon the living zooid if we are to add to the real knowledge of these creatures, for it is essential that the life-history of the zooids must be carefully EARLY LIFE-HISTORY OF CORALS 61 followed before we can form any conception of the real signi- ficance of their structure. The corals, like many other animals that live sedentary lives as adults, are actively moving creatures when young. Fic. 5. Montipora COLONY, DEAD AND DRIED. Beyond the meagre chances of distribution of living fragments by the waves, and the rare transport of colonies on floating logs, the adult life of a coral growth is of necessity absolutely fixed in the place where it is settled down. For when a coral larva becomes attached to a suitable base and lays the foundation of a colony it has no further hope of translation other than by chance accidents as the sport of the waves. ‘The power of active movement is lost for ever with the settling down of the larva. For this adult inactivity the motile larval coral compensates: the younger stages are free-swimming creatures 62 CORAL AND ATOLLS capable of propelling themselves through the water, and of being carried far and wide by currents, and in this way they are able to establish new colonies at a distance from the parent growth. It is well known to the inhabitants of the atoll that the corals do reproduce themselves by freely floating embryos, and Fic. 6 Tentacles of the partly exparded Zooid. Epithelial layer clothing the outer aspect of the colony. Stomodaeum Genital land situated in one of the mesenteciesS Mesentery- Tissue in which caleiFication is proceeding (=) Tissue in which - calcification 1S proceedi ng. A SECTION THROUGH A PORTION OF AN ALCYONARIAN CORAL TO SHOW THE RELATIONS OF THE ZOOID TO ITS SKELETON. it is a common thing to hear it said that a particular wreck or boulder became quickly encrusted with coral growth because it happened to settle down when the corals were spawning. It would hardly be expected that in an environment so uniform throughout the year’s cycle the corals would have a definite breeding season, and yet reproductive activity evidently undergoes periods of waxing and waning. At EARLY LIFE-HISTORY OF CORALS 63 times it has been noticed that many colonies are ripe and are actively giving rise to embryos, whilst at other times no actively reproducing colonies can be collecte d. The early stages of the young coral will be described but briefly, and only such details given as are necessary to make clear the manner of its life,and the manner of its attaining its adult condition. The ova and spermaria are developed from the epithe- lum that covers the mesenteries within the body of the parent zooid: some differences in their distribution occur in different species, for in some cases only ova are found and in some only spermaria. When both elements occur together they may be developed separately on different mesenteries within the same zooid, or they may both be present on the same mesentery; any mesentery may be the site of develop- ment of ova and spermaria, but the ova always tend to be developed at the attached radial edge, and the spermaria at the free central margin. When mature, the reproductive elements are passed from the central cavity of the zooid along the stomodeum, and through the mouth out into the water, the passage being effected by jerking movements of the parent zooid. The stage of development, in which the reproductive elements are liberated, varies considerably, for while some observers have seen the male cells and female cells extruded individually in the process of spawning, still it appears to be a more general rule that viviparous reproduction is adhered to, and a young embryo is extruded into the water. The segmentation of the ovum, and the early stages of the development of the larva, take place, as a rule, within the internal cavity of the zooid, and the larve are shot out through the mouth in successive -batches. In Maniciana areolata, Duerden observed that a dozen or more larve were ejected at a time, whilst in Porites clavaria, Favia fragum, and Siderastrea radians, they came out singly or in twos and threes. As the process of spawning advances, and as more and more batches are ejected, the stage of development of the extruded 64. CORAL AND ATOLLS larvee becomes more advanced, and a colony which at a spawning time started by ejecting ova and sperm cells will give rise, as the season advances, to successively more perfectly developed larval forms. The process of development of the larvee within the zooids takes place fairly uniformly all over a colony, so that any zooid that may be examined will show the larve, or reproductive elements, all in about the same stage of maturity. The actual period over which the extrusion of larvee is spread may be several days, or even a week or two, and then, after the occasional appearance of a few stray individuals, the zooids cease to give forth larve, and relapse again into their normal state as members of the colony. Zooids within the span of their lifetime are able to give rise to more than one crop of germinal elements, for a seasonal outpouring of the larvee does not terminate a zooid’s repro-— ductive life. The capacity of a mature colony for reproducing its species is therefore potentially very great. | When first launched on an independent career, the young coral larvee are little bodies from 1 to 3 millimetres in length ; that is to say, they are slightly longer than the diameter of an average pin’s head. They vary in shape according to their species; they may be oval, elongated, pear-shaped, or spheroidal: moreover, the larva has some power of altering its form, and, as growth proceeds, its original shape may become considerably changed. The larve are active motile creatures, and their activity begins to display itself, as a rule, immediately after their first extrusion from the parent zooid: the source of their motile power is the one so commonly found in lowly swimming animals—the lashing of cilia. The larval body is uniformly ciliated; that is to say, it is entirely covered with filamentous protoplasmic processes which move in a definite manner, and urge the animal through the water: the action of the cilia is wavelike, and, as a ripple of fine movements, spreads down the sides of the larva, much as the legs of a millipede move in their flowing sequence. Lt i is by the lashing of these processes that the coral larva EARLY LIFE-HISTORY OF CORALS 65 moves forwards, and it is by means of the cilia that the movements of rotation, that some larvee possess, are carried Fig. 7. LARVAL ForMs OF CORALS: CONDITION SHORTLY AFTER EXTRUSION. (After Duerden.) out. The larva moves along with the site of the future mouth pointing backwards, and in those larvee whose form is pear-shaped LARVAL Forms or CORALS. No. 1. Larva of Favia fragum, Esper., about ten days old, but still ¢ free-swimming. No. 2. Larva of Favia fragum, Esper., about a week after settling. (After Duerden.) it is usually the broad end that leads the way. On extrusion and after a few moments of quiescence, the larvee watched in aquaria have been noticed to begin to swim about actively, E 66 CORAL AND ATOLLS but, after a day or two of this life, they settle down, and become fixed to some object by the end that is pointing forwards as they swim—that is, the end farthest from the site of the future mouth. When first liberated they are opaque and solid bodies, Fic. 9. Two Youne Growrus or Seriatopora THAT HAVE STARTED THEIR COLONIES UPON A LIVING OYSTER. and it is not until some days of their free existence have been passed that the dimple of the mouth begins to pene- trate the solid body and hollow it out, and then the larva swells somewhat and becomes transparent. In colour the newly liberated larva is usually yellowish. As is so frequently the case in the adult, this is due to the presence of Zooanthellee, which are vegetable cells living in the tissues of the coral. EARLY LIFE-HISTORY OF CORALS 67 These symbiotic alge are crowded most densely about the region of the mouth, which is in consequence more deeply coloured, but, strangely enough, after the larve have lived their independent existence for some time, and have become possessed of a definite stomodeum and internal cavity, these Fic. 10. = fe 6] a LAL m7} fe ‘ ’ e, ee 4 A SECTION THROUGH A COMMENCING COLONY OF : Cenopsammia nigrescens, Showing the production of daughter zooids by budding from the sides of the parent. Zooanthelle are passed out through the mouth and into the water. Although it has been said that the larva becomes fixed after a few days passed as an active, free-swimming creature, still, among those that have been watched in aquaria a great majority display a singular reluctance to settling down: among Wilson’s larvee of Maniciana many did not settle down until they had spent three weeks swimming free, and Duerden came to the conclusion that if fixation did not take place within the first few days, it did not occur at all, a though the larvee continued to swim slowly about the vessell, and even 68 CORAL AND ATOLLS rested temporarily on its sides. These wandering larve, though they live for several weeks, undergo no development. They never attain tentacles, they acquire no skeleton, and yet, if fixation does at length occur, it provides the necessary stimulus, and growth and development proceed vigorously even under unfavourable circumstances. A larva may in this period of non-development be carried far by currents, and | it is evidently an important factor in the economy of corals that this stage of developmental inactivity should last long in some members of the brood, for thus the chances of the spread of a species become greatly increased. On the other hand, a larva may never wander from its parent colony; but may settle on some exposed portion, and start a new colony of its ow upon its parent growth; or it may settle down in the company of a fellow, or several of its fellows, and start a compound colony which is in every respect similar to a growth that is the outcome of the activity of a single larva. With the fixation of the larva a new phase commences in the life of a coral: the forwardly pointing end of the swimming larva now becomes its point of attachment, and it expands laterally to form the basal plate: the dimple of the mouth opens up to form the stomodeum, and the original solid larva becomes hollowed out by a central cavity. The animal becomes more complex, but into the precise steps of this differentiation of parts it is not necessary to enter; tentacles are budded out, mesenteries are formed in definite order, and the larva assumes the form of the adult zooid. Calcium carbonate is laid down as the supporting skeleton, which in the end becomes “coral” in the popular sense of the word, and soon the pioneer commences the process of asexual reproduction by budding or by fission, and so lays the foundation of the complex body of the coral colony. CHAPTER VIII THE GROWTH OF THE CORAL COLONY THE coral embryo that has settled down, and started its processes of division and budding, becomes the father of the colony, and the rate of growth of this colony is a matter of some importance. Since coral colonies may be regarded as the bricks of which the whole edifice of an atoll is composed, it is of interest to know how fast these bricks are made beneath the sea that will one day tear them from their beds and heave them up to form dry land. As a number of observations were made during the fifteen months of residence on the atoll, and some care was taken in recording these observations, and in eliminating errors, it will be as well to give in brief the actual figures arrived at. All the specimens measured were normal colonies growing in their natural habitat, and care was taken that the processes of measurement did not act harmfully upon the colony; in no case was a coral moved to its site of observation from a previous habitat. Branching forms were recorded by carefully measuring the branches at times when wind and tide permitted of accuracy, and by fixing a little band of copper round the branches at a distance of 10 centimetres from the distal extremity. Numerous branches, averaging 20 centimetres in length, were taken on many different colonies, and the distance of the band of copper from the tip of the branch was measured from time to time. It is only fair to say that the results were extremely variable: branches would grow fast, and then pause ; and some that for weeks showed no activity would suddenly enter on a period of unusually rapid growth. The reason for these fits and starts of growth is not easy 69 70 CORAL AND ATOLLS to see, for they take place quite irregularly in different colonies; but no colony measured in the atoll was exempt from them. In 100 days, from December 1, 1905, to March 10, 1906, a Madrepora branch grew 3°5 centimetres; and then from March 10 to July 24, a period of 136 days, no addition was made to its growth, and the branch though perfectly normal and healthy showed absolutely no signs of activity. In one month, from December 31, 1905, to January 31, 1906, two Porites masses showed no increase in their measure- ments, and yet by July 31, one had added 9 centimetres to an original circumference of 180, and the other 13 to an original circumference of 219. The period of the greatest activity of the Madrepora was the period of the most. complete quiescence of the Porites and — vice versa; and yet all the growths were measured under identical corditions, all lived in close proximity, and were subjected to the same influences of tide and season. The question of the cause of this waxing and waning of coral growth is interesting, and one that doubtless has great in- fluences on the building of dry land, for the prolonged inactivity of any of the more important builders would necessarily mean an alteration in the rate of land-formation. It is obvious that any observations that only extend over brief periods of time cannot be taken as strictly accurate records of the rate of growth of corals, for the measurements may chance to be made during a passive phase, or during an active phase of the colony. In order to eliminate in some measure the influence of this variability of growth, the observations were carried on for as long as possible. The chances of the sea and of storms cut many experiments short, but no case was used for obtaining results in which the measured period of growth had not exceeded 100 days. With the massive forms of growth this method of measurement could not of course be adopted, and direct measurements of the maximum circumference had to be taken at intervals. When a growth of Porites has reached GROWTH OF THE CORAL COLONY 71 the stage in which its upper surface is flattened and dead, the varying circumference of the growth represents practically the entire increase, and where possible such colonies were taken. Put briefly, and in the form in which they are most readily comparable, the results were as follows: In 100 days the average growth of branching forms was 2°74 centimetres ; that is to say, the distance of the copper band from the tip of the branch was, on an average, 12°74 centimetres after it had been in place for 100 days. In English equivalents the growth 1s 1:09 inches in 100 days, or roughly 3°7 inches in a year. In 100 days the massive forms of growth had increased on an average to the extent of adding 34 of their original circumference to their growth. That is to say, a massive coral 37 inches in circumference will have increased its circumference by 1 inch in 100 days. This increase in the size of the colony is entirely effected by the multiplication of the number of the individual zooids composing the colony, and the multiplication is carried out by the division and budding of the already existing zooids. The various methods by which this division is effected differ from each other considerably ; and it is necessary to touch briefly upon the chief methods by which a zooid reproduces itself. It is as well to state at the outset, and thus avoid much further explanation, that the different methods of division, though highly characteristic of certain well-marked types of growth, are not definitely and unalterably fixed ; and I think it is justifiable to dogmatise, and state that any form of coral may upon occasion exhibit any form of division. Since the resulting form of vegetative growth is purely the outcome of the type of division adopted by the zooid, then it follows that coral colonies may grow in many vegetative forms; and, again, these vegetative forms are not definitely fixed, for as any form of coral may exhibit any form of division, it follows that any form of coral may also, under different circumstances, exhibit any form of vegetative growth. Speaking quite broadly, a colony may grow according to 72 CORAL AND ATOLLS five different types of vegetative growth. It may grow as (1) a spherical mass, (2) an encrusting layer, (3) a free plate, (4) a branching tree-like growth, or (5) a mere amorphous lump; and though a definite inherent growth tendency is strongly implanted in the embryo, still the demands of the environment may call forth any type of vegetative growth. The growth-forms are purely the results of repeated divisions of the zooids, and so it will be seen that the relative value, from a reproductive point of view, of the zooids in a colony is of the greatest importance. This consideration brings in its train the division of all the colonial corals into two groups of normal growth-forms; for all the zooids may take an equal share in the asexual reproduction, or, again, some may be of greater importance than others, and the asexual — reproductive functions may be lodged ina very few individuals ~ only. These two great divisions must be considered separately, for the rules that may be applied to their respective methods of growth are widely different. Taking first the class in which every unit is of equal value, and going back to the earliest origin of the colony, it is easily seen that a zooid “ A” settled on a nucleus will divide into zooids “BRB? and “Cy and “.B? wall turther divideinto <)> samdeaeere and “C” into “F” and “G,” and so on; each newly divided individual taking its equal share in future divisions. The natural outcome of this state of things is that, if the site of election of growth be a prominence, or, aS is not uncommon, a small isolated fragment, then the equal divisions will tend to form a spherical mass. The rapidly growing colony will tend to surround the nucleus on all sides, and in this manner are formed those rounded masses of Porites and e a 5 f A % % H ( : 5 ‘ 5 t vere oh 5 i ‘ , P j r t i . 1% 4 y THE STRUCTURE OF THE BARRIER 167 much more important one of the grinding movements of the water. This is one of the greatest forces with which we have to deal in estimating the physical surroundings of the atoll, for it is carried on without ceasing. Every wave moves some fragment and triturates some particle, always tending to make finer and finer the broken pieces of coral which are for ever being removed from the coral beds beneath the surf-line. The branches and boulders become chips and fragments, and these in their turn are washed to and fro, becoming smaller and smaller in the process, and a diminishing scale of coral material is created, in which the first term is the growing boulder and the last is the fine white mud. The great quantities of sand formed in a coral atoll may be realised when the silt banks are watched in their growth, and when it is remembered that not a tithe of the sand ever reaches the lagoon, but lies on the submarine slopes of the ocean bed for a distance of several miles all round the atoll. The structure of the barrier reef is then in reality a simple one, it is a great platform built round the top of a large flat plateau, and, as a rampart, it encircles the summit for a dis- tance of some seventeen miles. CHAPTER XIV THE ISLAND BEACHES (A) THE SEAWARD BEACHES. As the barrier varies in different parts of the atoll ring, so does the beach which rises from it, and so too do the trivial elevations that may be dignified by the name of the “coast-line” of the islands. This is but the natural outcome of the fact that the different aspects of the circle are exposed to different physical conditions. The physical forces that build the dry land are not uniformly distributed around the atoll, and the natural consequence is that the disposition of the land varies as its creative forces vary. Were we to have an accurate model of any atoll, we could tell from its examination which was its windward side and which its leeward, which were the islands exposed to the ocean’s currents, and which were those protected from their scour. Since the building processes at work on the seaward side of the islands are different from those which shape the lagoon shore, it is but natural that the sea beaches and the lagoon beaches should differ in their nature. The ocean beaches consist essentially of a sloping pile of coral débris piled up on the breccia stratum as a basis; they form the merging-line of the island dry land and the barrier flats. On the ocean side there are places where no beaches can be said to exist, for the island rises abruptly from the barrier flats. In such places a succession of miniature terraces, two or three in number, rise as steps of consolidated breccia and bear on their top step the steeply piled up boulders that make the shore-line of the island. In other places there has been a denudation of the island land, and the tide-washed flats, 168 THE ISLAND BEACHES 169 in which the roots of former generations of coco palms may be found, merge gradually into the island débris, there being no heaping up of boulders to resist the sea’s encroachment ; and here, with high tides and a strong wind, the sea will rush over the island in an alarming manner. Although the senna beach is usually made up of chips and fragments of coral, still, in some places, both the lagoon beach, and the sea beach may be composed of fine coral Sandi Where the island is a pure sand formation it is generally sheltered on its seaward side by the accumulation of large boulders. Within the shelter formed by pieces of detached barrier, and on a firmly cemented rock basis, is piled fine sand and small débris which gradually slopes from the seaward edge upwards to the lagoon shore. Such a structure is the beach of Pulu Bras and of Pulu Pasir. No large pieces of coral enter into the formation, and on either side of that portion of barrier on which they have their basis, sand spits run out towards the lagoon. The seaward beaches are seen in their most perfect form to the windward of the atoll, and at the southern point of Pulu Atas, and at the south-east aspect of Keeling atollon, the beaches rise steeply piled to a height of twenty feet or more. No better idea of the wonderful force of the Trade-driven waves can be gathered than by studying these piles of massive boulders tossed up by storms. In these windward beaches there is very little sand, save that piled by the wind beyond the reach of the ordinary seas. Of whatever formation the beach may be, it is its chief characteristic that, in its minor details, it is perpetually changing with the cycle of months and years; and a daily walk round an island, during a year’s progress, will note per- petual alteration in the disposition of sand and rock, in the distribution of silt bank and channel; each changing always as the currents around the atoll wax and wane locally. To-day a boulder-piled rise will merge to the sea by a sandy beach and form a temporary spit, on which the cast ectoskeletons of crustacea, the dead echinoderms, shells of all sorts, and alge, will come ashore in profusion; and in a few weeks’ time it will 170 CORAL AND ATOLLS be gone, and the breccia platform will be laid bare to the rise of coral boulders. The nature of the beach depends entirely on the force of the sea which usually beats upon it. Where the waves are normally high, and the shore is exposed to the full force of the Trade-driven swell, the surf will rush over the submerged flats at full tide, and exert its whole energy on the boulders of the beach. It is in such places that the island rise is abrupt and the beach is made up of great masses piled one upon the other. All the sand, and the smaller débris, is washed away, only to be deposited on any part of the shore where a normally calmer state of things prevails. The character of the beach is, therefore, a map, which, when studied aright, gives up its story of the effects of the currents and winds, and the negative or positive movements to which the shore platforms have been — in the past subjected; but the temporary piling of sand or its temporary removal must not be taken as evidences of actual changes of level, or of constant action. On the seaward beaches is thrown the flotsam and jetsam that reaches the group from the outside world, and one of the principal items, —one that has in many places caused a considerable alteration in the character of the islands—is pumice. The greater part of the pumice found in the group arrived after the eruption of Krakatua: being washed up in 1883 in vast quantities. This pumice, lightest of all the wrack that the sea has piled up, has been carried for varying distances into the island from the seaward beach, and shows, as an index, the limit of surf action in the island building that has been reached in twenty-three years. It occurs in great quantities as rounded sea-worn masses, some being a foot and more in their long axis, but the majority varying from the size of marbles to that of cricket balls. Besides the Krakatua pumice, which lies to-day mostly on the seaward beaches, and for a few paces into the island itself, there is older pumice which may be found almost anywhere in the breadth of the dry land. Pumice has been arriving from somewhere ever since the first appearance of land in the atoll ring, and has, during the period of its stay, undergone much THE ISLAND BEACHES 171 decomposition. The Krakatua pumice is almost uniformly grey, and is fresh and clean: but pumice exists far from the sea that has become impregnated with foreign substances, and is in many places entirely fragmented. ‘The various stages of pumice degeneration may be traced from the sea beach to the interior of the island. Some of the pumice has never been grey, and rounded blocks of a black and cinder-like substance are here and there found in the parts of the island where pumice has been most freely washed ashore. This pumice does not appear to belong to any one particular period, for it is found to-day on the beaches, and in the islands, but its composition wherever found appears to be the same, and, on fracture, its internal part is always shining and fresh-looking, if it be picked up on the beach or far in the centre of an island. Pieces of wood, the timbers of ships, well covered with barnacles and often with portions of copper still attached to them, float ashore from time to time, and in the history of the islands many interesting finds have been made. Many hard seeds and seed-pods are washed ashore with every high sea, and it is an interesting fact that there are quite half a dozen commonly found seeds, which will grow if planted, but which have never, by the agency of waves or birds, succeeded in making a footing in the islands. Various large beans are common on the beaches, and I have succeeded in growing them, but in all the islands there is no plant of their kind that has grown from a sea-tossed waif. The waves trans- port the seeds to the high-water mark and leave them there, and there seems to be no agent in the atoll to effect their removal to a suitable site for growth tocommence. Rarer finds are large masses of gum resins whose place of origin I do not know. The ocean beaches are the resting-places of all sorts of jetsam from the barrier and the coral beds which lie upon the submarine slopes of the atoll. Shells in great variety, coral fragments, the harder portions of crustacea and echino- derms are thrown up in great profusion by every tide. It has repeatedly been stated, and very often doubted, that the dead masses of some corals will float. Dr. H. B. Guppy found 172 CORAL AND ATOLLS many large blocks of coral in the atoll, which when returned to the sea were found to float buoyantly.* These coral masses are not at all uncommon on the seaward beaches, they are mostly sea-worn and ancient, and, so far as I observed, all belonged to one species of massive Astrwa with very large zooids. The skeleton floats by reason of the many spaces securely walled off by the septa. The most interesting thing about these stranded lumps of coral is the fact that no species at all like them is to be found living in the atoll. In the ocean between the atoll and Java Heads, and in the Banka Straits, I have seen these floating masses pass by the ship in company with the smaller lumps of pumice which seem to be for ever floating in the ocean in this part of the world. Some of the masses are very large; one that I found on the seaward beach of Pulu Tikus was nearly three feet in diameter ; it was a difficult undertaking to roll the great mass back into the sea, and yet, when at length it reached the water it floated readily. It had been long in its position at the top of the beach, and it must have been a time of severe storm that tossed if beyond the reach of the normal waves; for though it was left floating, no sea at that season was powerful enough to heave it back again, and, after bobbing along the shore of the island for many days, it was lost sight of. Por- tions of this boulder would not float in fresh water, but this is not invariably the case, and some floating boulders are freely buoyant in fresh as well as salt water. (B) THe BracuEs or THE LAGOON SHORE. In contrast to the surf-beaten, rock-bound shore which stretches along the ocean side of the islands is the calm sandy beach—a place of lapping waves and gentle slopes—by which the island dry land falls to the lagoon. The lagoon beach is typically composed of sand of a peculiar whiteness which the sunshine makes dazzling, and which is entirely composed of fine particles of coral, mixed only with fragments of broken shells. * Scot. Geog. Maga., vol. v. No. 6, p. 287. K VII. = Se ony g TERLY WIND. SAND-PILING BY A WES = vy 3] 3 IKUS, TO SHOW =) Ss 5 & mH S 2 a LAGOON SHC 0) Hk THE ISLAND BEACHES 173 This sand is made in many ways which will need detailed examination, but the most important of all the agents in its making are the grinding movements of the wave-driven boulders on the shore platform, and the myriad beaked Scari which are perpetually reducing dead coral masses to fine sand. The sand is the lightest of all the degradation products of the coral, and is carried the farthest both by the waves and by the wind; it is the fluctuating currency of the land, and is deposited and swept away, accumulated and withdrawn, as it makes and unmakes new land. In all the fluctuations of this sand movement there is a compensation, and if a westerly wind piles up the lagoon shore a foot higher with sand at one point of the atoll ring, it has robbed some other part, and has left a breccia platform exposed, instead of a gently sloping sandy beach. The great extent of the inner margins of the island ring con- sists of this white sand beach on which lines of agar-agar, and other lagoon alge, mark the excursions of the tide; but in places it is broken by breccia platforms, exactly like the shore platforms of the seaward barrier. These rock layers, often broken and displaced by the sucking action of scours and eddies, stretch out from the accumulated island sand and run far into the lagoon, becoming continuous with the dark patches which break the stretches of blue-green water, and mark the site of the lagoon breccia rocks. It must not be imagined that these breccia slabs, found on the lagoon shore, have been formed in situ under the present con- ditions. The only site of typical breccia formation is the surf- beaten barrier, and the breccia slabs of the lagoon shore were laid down in the distant past, when the present lagoon shore was the wave-beaten outpost of the island plateau. Although typical breeccia—the well-consolidated mosaic of coral frag- ments —is not formed on the lagoon shores, yet the same forces that produce the seaward breccia are always acting in a lesser degree on the lagoon shore. The gentle lapping waves of the lagoon shore are for ever tending to weld sand particle 174 CORAL AND ATOLLS to sand particle, just as the surf of the ocean is always con- solidating the larger fragments together. Just as round the sand nucleus of the ocean barrier Fic. 57. THE WESTERN END oF PuLu TIKUS, Showing the worn coral masses that are piled on the beach by the waves. The presence of the large rounded boulders is due to the strong currents rushing out of the lagoon entrance. calcium carbonate is ever being deposited, so on the lagoon beaches this nuclear increment is ever being added. The whole question of the formation of breccia turns on the con- sideration of the welding force of the waves and the materials with which they have to work. On the ocean side the frag- ments are wedged together, sand is driven home, and by the cementing action of deposited calcium carbonate the whole is consolidated into a massive mosaic. On the lagoon shore the materials are in a fine state of division, and the force is THE ISLAND BEACHES 175 not nearly so great, and so the product formed is beach sand- stone, or beach sandstone in which are embedded coral frag- ments after the manner of conglomerate. All degrees of fineness and consolidation of the beach sandstone are to be found. A fine loose sandstone represents the minimal product of the process—the hard mosaic breccia, the maximal; and all intermediate grades are to be found, their composition depending entirely upon the wave force that was exercised in their making. Some specimens show an interesting stratifi- cation, and tell of different forces which have been brought into play on the lagoon beaches at different periods of the island building. On the lagoon shores, where there is an exposure to strong currents, as on some parts of Pulu Panjang and the western end of Pulu Tikus, the sand accumulation cannot take place, and here the wide areas of the beach are made up of broken coral fragments. These fragments are water-worn from their ceaseless movement upon each other, and they remain entirely uncemented ; but this condition gives way to the normal, even sandy stretches wherever the normal conditions of the lagoon shore prevail. The sandy lagoon beaches outrun the islands, and at their extremities form sand spits stretching towards the lagoon. This is a very characteristic feature of the atoll islands. The islands tend to be crescents; the lagoon beaches exaggerate this crescent shape, and so the extremities of the islands curve to the lagoon as tapering sand spits. Between these sand spits the ocean communicates, across the barrier flats, with the lagoon. On the southern or windward side of the atoll it is only natural that the light sand should have been driven to its farthest extent, by wave action across the flats, and by wind action across the islands; and here it is that we find the broadest stretches of sandy beach, the highest sandy shores, and the most extensive lagoon shallows. Here, too, are found the island lagoonlets with wide areas of coral silt, but this more fittingly belongs to the description of the island than the beach. CHAPTER XV THE STRUCTURE OF THE ISLANDS In describing the general structure of the atoll it was noted that not only did the whole system of islands tend to be circular, but that the general plan of the atoll—the “ fairy ring ’—was foreshadowed in the structure of every constituent island; and a glance at the chart will show this fact. The most common form of the islands is the crescent, and this is only to be expected, as many of them are considerable portions of the circumference of the atoll ring: but this feature goes — still further, and in many cases the extended horns are bent inwards until the island itself becomes an incomplete circle, and itself rises to the dignity of enclosing a lagoonlet. Pulu Panjang encloses two such lagoons, and Pulu Atas three; whilst Pulu Ampang major and Pulu Pandan are advanced approximations to the circular form. These lagoonlets are places of great interest, for they have to some extent a flora and fauna of their own; they also show the final stage of coral degradation, for they are composed of a white, chalky—almost slimy—ooze, which is dry at low tides, and partly dry for the greater part of the whole tide cycle. The degradation of the coral sand that has taken place in the lagoonlets is doubtless partly a sub-aerial decomposition, and partly the life-work of the many creatures that live in these oozy flats. The “fiddler crabs” (Gelasimus, sp.) with one great pink claw, larger than all the rest of the crabs, live in myriads in little holes in the white mud; and when disturbed they beat a steady line of retreat, marked by the rolling onwards of a pink wave, which fades away before you, as each one seeks refuge in his burrow. The large Kapeting Balong (Cardiosoma, sp.) lives round the margin of the 176 THE STRUCTURE OF THE ISLANDS 177 lagoons ; and many forms of smaller crustacea, sand-hoppers, worms, &c., dwell on the flats and furnish food for the shore birds which frequent these places. The chief vegetation consists of bushes of “tea tree” (Pemphis acidula, Forst., Kayu Burung) which grow on the higher parts—islands during high water, and mounds when the tide is out ; these and pioneer coco palms are studded all over the white mud. Some coarse grasses (Lepturus repens, Forst.) that bind the loose sand with their spreading roots, are also agents, and apparently active ones, in helping to win these lagoons to the island dry land. These lagoonlets differ of course from the great lagoon of the atoll in that they have no depth of water, and no growing coral; but they are formed in the same way as their larger representative and their fate— that of slow silting with coral sand—foretells the history of the lagoons of atolls in general. The approximation of the individual islands to a crescentic form is due to a very obvious cause. At those tide-washed gaps which separate island from island is the connection of the outer ocean with the lagoon; for here, at high tide, the rollers sweep across the barrier flats. very wave which breaks on the barrier washes minute fragments of coral, and fine coral sand, across the flats, and deposits its load of silt in the stiller waters of the lagoons. It is but natural that the suspended matter becomes first heaped up at the sides of the gap, for here the current slackens first, and so the extremities of the islands become the site of the deposition of sand-banks, which are formed as in-curved continuations of the land. Dr. Guppy has laid much stress on this simple phenonenon as an agent in land fermation, and it is certainly an important one in the shaping of the islands: in fact it is a continuation of the very process which has, in the past, shaped the atoll itself. The current that lays down the banks at the ends of adjacent islands still continues to carry silt in its moving waters, and this is ultimately dropped farther out in the lagoon, opposite the gap. Sand-banks in the lagoon therefore, when far out, tend to be opposite the interspaces of the island ring, whilst M 178 CORAL AND ATOLLS nearer shore they tend to be continuous with the ends of the islands. Although there is a certain amount of constancy in the shape of the islands in the ring, there is a very great diversity in their size; and the largest islands lie to the south of the group. Pulu Panjang and Pulu Atas are by far the largest pieces of land; not only are they longer, but they are wider from sea beach to lagoon shore than the other islands, and their seaward margins are amongst the highest pieces of land in the atoll. Whatever the size or shape of the island, it must always be borne in mind that the dry land is a heaped-up collection of débris: the islands are made of flotsam and jetsam, of which of course the greatest constituent is dead and broken coral. It is only to be supposed that time, with the sub-aerial alteration of coral, the growth and death of all sorts of vegetable products, and the action of the winds on the lighter particles, should have done much to alter the original appearance of the land. The larger islands towards the south are those that have, to-day, the least of the original features of their origin: the coral fragments have become disintegrated and buried beneath the accumulated generations of fallen trees, fallen leaves, and the husks of the coconuts. It is the regulating policy of the islands that the husk of the nut is not used for the purposes of commerce, and so no fibre is made and no coir exported, but the husk rots where it falls, for all the nuts are husked as they are picked up. In this way the thickly vegetated islands have accumulated a consider- able depth of soil.- One of the important factors in the formation of this vegetable mould is the large Kapeting Balong (Cardio- soma, sp.), which plays, on a grand scale, the role of the earth-worm. It burrows the land through and through, and undermines the heaps of husks with its tunnels—almost as large as rabbit-holes—so that a considerable part of the fibre becomes buried. The buried husks rot, and more earth is formed for future generations of coconuts to take root in, and for future generations of the Kapeting to till. Not only the PLATE VIII. A TYPICAL VIEW OF THE VEGETATION OF THE ATOLL. THE STRUCTURE OF THE ISLANDS 179 Kapeting Balong but several other species of land-living crabs have a habit of taking the fibre into their burrows, and go deliberately burying it, and the influence of efforts at tilling carried out by these large creatures, which exist on some of the islands in great numbers, must be considerable. The land- living crustacea are then the earth-worms of the group, in as far as their function in the formation of vegetable mould is con- cerned ; and the earth-worm which does exist on the atoll is so very uncommon that its share is negligible. The stem of a coco palm that has fallen lasts whole but a very short time, the wood of the centre of the trunk is soft, and soon by ,the agencies of the myriad millepedes (native name—kaki vibu) and the natural processes of decay, the trunk becomes hollowed out, and nothing but a shell of bark is left. Every cyclone wind which visits the islands lays low many hundreds of trees, and their rotting remains form another source of soil, and another cloak for the coral débris. Besides the husk of the nut, the coco palm is perpetually shedding fronds, for as it grows up and up the lowest fronds drop off leaving those rings on the trunk which mark the upward growth—and these fronds are always being added to the land accumulations. The remainder of the vegetation of the islands is characterised by a tropical mushroom rapidity of growth; the papias spring up fresh and green to a height of twenty feet, and, like great weeds, die down and rot. There is nothing more strange than the manner in which these luxuriant trees appear after wet weather in a soil consisting of nothing save coral chips and a little sand. At the end ofa dry period, the advent of a good spell of rain will produce green shoots from every fissure of the surface of the ground, and the most luxuriant of all the green things is the papia, or, as it is called in the islands, the Katis. Even amongst the largest trees the Ampol (Pisonia grandis) has been well called the “cabbage tree,’ for a branch the thickness of a man’s thigh is not to be trusted with a man’s weight : and no tree of any age is to be found that has not some large portion rotted away Vegetation springs up rapidly 180 CORAL AND ATOLLS and as rapidly dies; during droughts the islands will be parched and brown, every plant save the coco palms will look leafless and dead: but the next day if rain comes, the whole appearance of one of the more barren islands like Pulu Tikus will wholly change, and all the white coral surface of the land will be green with sprouting seeds. The rapidity of the cycles of vegetation is a thing to be reckoned with in considering the alteration of the primitive structure of the islands. | In connection with the formation of vegetable mould, the influence of the heavy rainfall must be considered, for the rate of the washing of surface accumulations through the loosely strewn coral chips is very wonderful. In Pulu Tikus coco palms have lived and died for generations, their trunks have decayed, their leaves rotted: and yet on the surface of the greater part of the island no soil accumulation is to be seen. As a matter of fact the extreme barrenness of the islands is more apparent than real, for if a few inches of the coral débris be scraped from the surface, the vegetable earth is found below, intermixed with the lower layers of coral, where it has been washed by the rain. On Pulu Tikus forty tons of earth were imported from the Botanical Gardens of Singapore; in 1902 it was landed, in 1905 any trace of it was hard to find. It is such facts as these that make the presence of phosphates deep in the soil of high coral islands easy to explain: for every shower that falls dissolves any surface substance readily soluble, and carries it in solution as it percolates through successive layers of loosely packed coral, thus giving it the very best opportunity to enter into chemical combination. Another factor in the after-history of the island is the drift sand, which, under the influence of the winds, builds up the surface of the island beyond the limit of the sea action. Many of the islands are thickly covered with sand; some are even entirely composed of sand, and an interesting charac- teristic of those islands, into whose formation no large frag- ments of coral have entered, is their uniformity of contour. ‘SOMIE ATOd ‘ANVISI AHL LO AGIS NOODV'I AHL AO YNITId-ANVS “XI ULV Td THE STRUCTURE OF THE ISLANDS 181 When an island is formed of the typical coral débris, consisting of detached slabs of breccia, boulders and fragments, it is always evident that its windward margin is its highest land, and, on section, it is roughly wedge-shaped, the apex of the wedge being towards the lagoon:—for the island has been built by the waves from the ocean side, and its wave-beaten shore is piled the highest. On the other hand, when an island is made of sand it is moulded mostly by the wind, and the effect of the wind is to drive ihe light sand farther and farther towards the leeward side, so that the island rises from the ocean shore to the lagoon beach—the apex of the wedge being towards the ocean. So marked is this effect of wind formation that, in the case of Pulu Bras, the seaward shore rises as a gradual sandy slope, and ends abruptly towards the lagoon as a sand cliff twenty-seven feet high, which is the leeward limit of the island. On all the islands this wind- driven sand makes some covering for the coral basis, and most often it is collected into characteristic ridges and mounds, making some little break in their otherwise level surface. As the sand is being built up all over the islands, even in those parts where wave action has long ceased to have any influence, it must have been one of the most considerable of the agents in raising the land from its sea-made level. The action of the wind-driven sand has doubtless, ina great measure, waned since the islands have become thickly planted with coco palms, and now is probably secondary in importance to the influence of the vegetation itself. On the lagoon shore the sand is the only material from which the island now builds, and the wind-driven particles are forced back by the lapping waves of the lagoon, with the result that a characteristic rise of sand marks the fall to the inner shore, just as the boulder rise marks the seaward edge. The outcome of these various building forces is that the atoll islands have not only a characteristic geographical shape, but they also possess a characteristic land contour. The sea- ward edge is piled the highest, and is the mountain range of the island—in Pulu Tikus, on the lee of the atoll, reaching 182 CORAL AND ATOLLS thirteen feet at its highest point; and in Pulu Atas, to the, windward, rising to a “hill” of thirty feet. From this sea-bank the land falls to the centre of the island, where in some instances there are many hollows below the high spring-tide level. Towards the lagoon the land rises again as an inconsiderable sand ridge, and thence falls gently away to the lagoon. In Pulu Tikus, which is the island that has undergone least change from the bare débris condition of its first making, the greater part of the surface of the land is bare coral fragments with a very sparse admixture of sand and vegetable mould, and there has been very little building up of the interior of the island. The result is that most of its surface is raised but a foot or two above high-water level, and a considerable part of it is below, and as the débris is easily permeable to water, the burrows in which the Kapeting | Balong lives are usually filled with salt water almost to their mouths. Wherever a hole is dug, the water is found just below the surface, and large puddles are formed in many places at every high spring tide; whilst the water in a fish- pond, some thirty feet from the lagoon shore, follows all the movements of the tide with but little delay. There are many facts of great interest in connection with this sponge-like condition of the islands, which permits the sea to fill them at high tide, and leave them when the tide is low. It is this condition that gives rise to the curious pheno- menon of rising and falling wells of fresh water, which can be made on a great many of the islands, and to account for which many suggestions have been put forward. It has been said that the sea water at the height of the tide percolates into the island, and, as it goes, it becomes filtered through the coral so perfectly that in the middle of the island it becomes quite fresh, and may there be tapped as good drinking water in wells. That filtration by the accumulation of dead coral could be so complete as to remove sodium chloride from its solution is an assumption so bold that its acceptance could only be justified by the careful exclusion of all other possible causes of the freshening of the water: and as a matter of fact THE STRUCTURE OF THE ISLANDS 183 the other and more likely causes have not been excluded. In Pulu Tikus fresh water cannot be obtained in wells, and Pulu Tikus, being the island that has retained most of its original features, shows in this as in the case of other pheno- mena the half-formed product that more easily tells its origin. At high tide the water rises, the fish-pond fills up, the Kapeting’s holes show water a few inches below the surface, and puddles form in the more low-lying parts of the island. At low tide a visit to the barrier will show this water running out of the land again, welling up in holes and trickling down the beach as the sponge empties. If, on this island, a hole be dug as far from the sea as possible, the water that is met a foot or so below the surface will be found to be either quite fresh, brackish, or wholly salt; and it depends entirely on the amount of recent rain which of these three conditions is found. After a wet period, fresh water will be found any- where towards the centre of the island, and it will rise and fall in the hole as the tide goes through its cycles: but when the dry weather sets in the fresh water becomes more and more brackish, and in the course of some days becomes entirely salt again. The reason for this is easily seen, for since the land is so little raised above the ocean-level, the water which the accumulated rains produce must lie as a subsoil water very near to the surface, and, as it is lighter than the sea water, it rises and falls as a surface layer with the movements of the tide. Fresh water will remain separate as a surface layer even in the open sea for a considerable time. After a tropical down- pour in Singapore roadstead the surface specific gravity was lowered from 1026° to 1021°, and on two occasions in this atoll so continuous was the rain that large numbers of fish died from the freshness of the water, for the rain stood for a height of several inches on the surface of the salt waters of the lagoon. The diffusion which takes place slowly in the sea takes place still more slowly when the rain water, after percolating through the porous débris of which the island is composed, lies in the depressions of the compact breccia layer that forms the basis of the islands; and in an island so porous as is Pulu 184 CORAL AND ATOLLS Tikus, the complete mixing takes, at the fastest, a period of many days. In the larger and more consolidated islands, where the building up of the land level has advanced further, this subsoil water exists as a large pool on the breccia basis, -and is only displaced by the movements of the tide water. A very prolonged drought would no doubt affect all the wells of the atoll in time; but so large is the accumulation of subsoil water that forty tons a day could be taken from a well in Pulu Selma for the Australian horse ships, without affecting the quality of the water, if the well were given a rest of an hour in the middle of the day. No restrictions of any kind are placed upon the using of the well water by the natives of Pulu Selma, and domestic water for cooking, washing, and bathing, as well as water for their gardens and industries, is taken freely from these wells; and yet, even in the prolonged drought of 1905-6, the water very fairly retained its freshness. The water found in Pulu Luar is the best well water in the group, and is that used by the Ross family for drinking purposes. Under no conditions does it ever become brackish, doubtless because its use is restricted, and the well is situated in the centre of the island, and therefore far from the sea. The water of Pulu Selma has.a degree of hardness that makes it difficult to lather with ordinary soaps, though with the island soap, made from coconut oil, it always lathers freely :—-with this soap, however, sea water can be used for washing purposes. The finding of fresh water in wells dug on coral islands is a common thing, and in the low islands of the Pacific and in the West Indies these wells are made by the natives; but the water is apt to be scant and brackish, and this atoll is somewhat unusually favoured. The reason for the constant freshness of the wells is, of course, the heavy annual rainfall, and the yearly seventy inches does away with any necessity to collect water in holes in coco- nut palms, or to regard water as a great luxury, as is the case in some lowislands. But on such of the islands as Pulu Tikus, where no wells can be made, all the water must be condensed for drinking, and collected from the roofs for domestic purposes. CHAPTER XVI THE LAGOON In accounts of atolls it is often found that the lagoon is regarded and described as though it were a pit—a sort of lake that is situated on the summit of a submarine moun- tain; often it is supposed to be the water-filled crater of a volcano. So long as such ideas concerning the nature of the lagoon are held, no description of it is at all likely to depict its real features, for no descriptions written under this belief will ever make it apparent that the lagoon is really the top of a broad reef, around whose edges a ring of islands is raised. In this description it is assumed throughout that the lagoon is a slightly submerged reef, whose surface has undergone some modifications owing to its partial enclosure by the island ring. The lagoon is a sheet of water with an area of some twenty-five square miles, and over the whole extent of its area the after- effects of its enclosure by the islands have not been equal. The result is that to-day the lagoon may be divided, for the purposes of description, into two parts: a southern shallow part; and a northern deeper part. It is of importance to note that the shape of this southern part is exactly that already described as belonging to the sandy lagoon shores of individual islands. If all the southern islands, from Pulu Ampang on the east to Pulu Panjang on the west, be imagined as one continuous reef, then the shallow part of the iagoon is exactly what we would expect its lagoon shore to be. It is also of importance to notice that this crescentic shallowing of the southern portion is gaining on the deeper northern part, exactly as the cres- centic sand beaches of the individual islands gain on all parts of the lagoon. The same process is evidently at work on a 185 186 CORAL AND ATOLLS larger scale, and a line of transition from coral shoal to sand- silted lake is sweeping, as a crescent, from south to north. The entrance to the lagoon is situated to the north of the atoll, and here the bottom of the lagoon merges with the comparatively shallow areas of the coral ridge, and is seen in its most luxuriant growth, and in its most primitive condition. Between Pulu Luar and Pulu Tikus the barrier is entirely wanting, and in this gap the original coral bed lies at a few fathoms’ depth with its luxuriant mixed growth of massive corals undisturbed by violent wave action. This coral bed is, no doubt, the type of the original condition of the whole area of the ridge now occupied by the southern atoll and the northern atollon of Keeling Island. The shallow southern part of the lagoon extends in the form of a great horse-shoe, skirting the inner shores of the islands, and invading at its margins the northern deeper part. Its area may be roughly taken as slightly more than half the total lagoon area, or about thirteen square miles. Large areas of its most southern parts are dry at low water, and covered by a few feet of water only at full high tide. The more northerly and central parts of the shallows are covered by anything less than a fathom of water at low tide. The bottom of this part is, however, not at all uniform, and deeper hollows are studded about the central portions of the greater part of the southern shallows. Along the inner shores of the large islands, Pulu Atas and Pulu Panjang, the long sand flats are dry for a mile or so at low tide, and at full high tide a great part of this flat has no more than an inch or two of water on it. Towards the shore, these flats become continuous with the oozy white mud which collects in the lagoonlets of these two islands, and towards the lagoon they slope gradually to the slowly deepening water, which is clearly indicated as a bright green belt, merging after- wards to the characteristic deep blue. Bushes of Pemphis acidula and pioneer coconut palms stand here and there as outposts of the land: and it is the policy of the islands that these pioneers are not interfered “LUISI GNVS TIVNS HHL “YISVd ATOd SGUVMOL ONIMOOT ‘SOMITE ATOd HO GN NYAISAM AHL WOU NOODWT AHL “X HLV 1d THE LAGOON 187 with ; for the advance of vegetation is the surest way of winning dry land from the silt regions. In the reclaiming of the lagoon shallows a grass (Lepturus repens) plays a great part, for it binds the shifting sand firmly with its long trailing roots, and makes firm dry land out of the useless shallows. In 1827, when the permanent settlers first arrived in the islands, the silting of the southern portion of the lagoon was not nearly so far advanced as it is to-day. The schooner which the islanders made for their use was actually built in Pulu Atas, and launched from it; and it sailed in and out from the settlement on the island to keep up the necessary traffic of the atoll. Before ten years had passed, however, the silting of the southern end of the lagoon had proceeded so far that the boat channel became obliterated, and schooner traffic with the settlement was cut off. It was for this reason that the site of the settlement was moved to Pulu Selma, the island which it still occupies, situated in the northern deeper half of the lagoon. It would appear that the southern anchorage has never been used for any other craft than the island-built schooner, for ever since the atoll has been charted the safe anchorage has been given as Port Refuge in the lagoon off Pulu Tikus, or else without the lagoon altogether in the gap between Pulu Tikus and Pulu Luar. Although the whole story of the southern part of the lagoon discloses a steady progress of the conversion of a coral- studded stretch of water into sand flats, still, at any one point, some indications might be seen, from time to time, which would seem to contradict the general trend of the process. Beach sand has been seen to be the fluctuating capital of the islands and of the beaches: and, in exactly the same way, the silt sand of the lagoon is the ever-varying factor in the ceaseless minor variations, which are always going on in some part of the whole extent of the lagoon. Sand spits and shallows wax and wane ; banks are piled up, and then soon after scoured away, but in the manner of these changes there is no general influence upon the atoll structure as a whole, and purely local conditions determine the balance of the processes at work in any given 188 CORAL AND ATOLLS spot. To any one who has for long watched these minor—yet striking—changes, it must be evident how fallacious are those arguments concerning the age of atolls, or the manner of atoll formation, which are based on the measurement of the quan- tities of sand piled up, or denuded, in any one point in the whole circle of more than twenty miles. Where in the island ring the sea runs strongly through the gaps and into the lagoon, spits are formed wherever, by some interference, the current slackens; in this way the crescent shape of the islands is brought about, and the great sand flats of the southern portion of the lagoon are accumulated. Drift sand is the main factor in causing the shallowing of the lagoon, and drift sand it may be safely said will, lacking some general upheaval, be the agent which will ultimately win the lagoon to the dry land; but it is the most inconstant and Capricious agent, and no man may say that so many feet will - be laid down this year, and so many next, and that therefore in a certain meaningless number of years the lagoon will cease to exist. The very presence of the sand in the lagoon introduces a complication into the question, for sand is one of the most potent causes of coral death; the shallowing of the lagoon by the accumulation of coral growth must therefore be arrested when the shallowing by sand deposit sets in. It is under these circumstance that the very slight building in- fluences of Lithothamnionide come into play, for they do not appear to be so sensitive to the influences of silt as are the corals. In certain places at the southern side of the atoll, in the border-line region of barrier flat and lagoon flat, the growth of these calcareous algze occupies a fairly large area, which is free of living coral in any quantity: but apart from arresting the drift sand in their meshes they do not have any influence on the rate of building. It must not be imagined that the great southern part of the lagoon is by any means devoid of living coral colonies, for dotted about at intervals are some of the most luxuriant of all the coral growths. It has been said that the distribution of the living colonies on the barrier and the barrier flats was a distribution THE LAGOON ~ 189 of types and not of species; and exactly the same assertion holds good with regard to the lagoon. The same corals that live on the barrier are also found in the lagoon. At the same time it is quite correct to say that some types are definitely confined to certain definite environments, and this forms one of the most interesting pages in the study of living corals. This subject has already been discussed and so no further details will be added here: but it must be insisted that sand and silt are the most important agents in the causation of death of corals, and that their presence acts in two ways: (1) It may fall on them and choke their zooids from above, or (2) It may overtake them from below. Some idea of the rate of the silting of the lagoon may be gathered by measuring the dead lower portions of the great branching colonies of Madrepora ; for these corals do not normally die in their lower portions, and the dead area represents the amount of silting that has taken place, in the immediate neighbourhood of the colony, since its first establishment. Sand then is the great architect of the lagoon, and while it inevitably kills the coral growths, it more than counterbalances for this by its own building efforts. The still waters of the lagoon are harmful to the coral colonies in another way, for large areas of the shallow water are covered by great beds of alge. Where algz exist abundantly corals do not flourish. Agar-agar and many other seaweeds cover a considerable portion of the lagoon, making characteristic dark patches on the bottom. One such large bed exists in front of the eastern end of Pulu Tikus, and many are found in the southern portion of the lagoon, and these beds flourish to the absolute exclusion of coral growth. There is in particular one very fine green alga that occurs even in the barrier pools, and is particularly inimical to coral growth. At certain seasons of the year these fine green threads are found, as drift-weed, in every pool; and as they wash to and fro in the tide they become entangled among the branches of the corals. Wherever the threads obtain a fair lodgment, a green mat-like growth is spread on the surface of 190 CORAL AND ATOLLS the coral, and the fate of those portions of the branches upon which it settles is sealed. The coral slowly dies, and on the dead portion the alga becomes thickly encrusted, its filaments spread out and are washed away to find a fresh resting-place among the neighbouring branches. In sheltered pools, where the process can be watched, it is easily seen that the alga is one of the most potent factors in causing coral death; and doubtless in the lagoon, where the beds of alge occupy many acres, the factor is one of great importance; certain it is that in the alge beds the corals do not flourish. The sand and the seaweed between them have in some measure banished the living corals from certain parts of the lagoon, and the actual fraction of its whole area covered by living coral I would judge to be less than the half that, in 1836, Darwin estimated. ; Of the southern part of the lagoon, the western half is the area that is most thickly covered with coral growth; and the bottom of the lagoon is here chequered over with coral colonies in a very characteristic fashion. Large masses of Porites, with actively living zooids only present round their sides, give rise to large, and roughly circular, flat-topped rocks; and on the flat tops live the more active branching forms of Madrepora. In the sand, isolated and small colonies of Porites, all approximating to a circular form, lie scattered about; the great majority of the colonies being far less luxuriant than those of the same species that live in the ocean beyond the barrier edge, or in the northern half of the lagoon, The nearest parallel that I can draw to the condition of coral growth on the lagoon bottom is the manner in which gorse bushes may be dotted about upon a hillside; it is a series of scattered groups disposed about at quite irregular intervals. The groups of coral colonies are of very varying size, but they nearly always contain the same set of types of vegetative growth. I was particularly fortunate, during my residence in the atoll, in being able to accompany the boats engaged in clearing the coral from the southern part of the lagoon. The great THE LAGOON © 191 boulders are shifted with crowbars by the Malays standing in the water up to the level of their chests, and, with much skill, large masses are rolled and hoisted into a lighter, where the corals and their teeming symbiotic fauna can be well studied. The work is undertaken partly for its own utility, and partly to obtain the boulders for enclosing turtle-ponds, and also for burning into lime. Thanks to the kindness of Mr. Andrew Clunies-Ross I was able to take part in these expeditions, and the experience gained by seeing and handling so much coral from different areas of the lagoon gives some confidence for dogmatism as to the disposition of living corals within the lagoon. Time after time, as the coral was hoisted into the lighter, the same sequence of types showed. The basis was nearly always formed of a large colony of massive Porites, mostly dead, and only here and there at its periphery showing signs of activity; the older portions giving a resting-place to Astraw and branching types of Madrepora, and, at its edges, the Montipore and the various plate growths which are a common modification of many species. In the sand around these masses are the branching types of Madrepora and Montipora, which crumble to pieces and break as the boulders are raised ; and growing at intervals, and usually in the deeper parts—so that the Malays must dive to procure the specimens——are the large leaf-like growths of Echinopora lamellosa. Here too grow the rounded stems of the branching Porites, which are of a varying shade of greyish yellow or greyish purple when alive, but which, when the coral is dead and exposed to the air, turn black. Growing upon the boulders of massive Porites, and also living free in the deeper pits, are the fine colonies of the most delicate of all the corals—the pure white Seriatopora, which has received amongst many other specific titles that of caliendrum. Of all the lagoon types of coral, those of a branching habit are the most numerous and appear to be thriving the best, and the type of growth of Madrepora known as pulchra covers unquestionably more ground than any other type. The 192 CORAL AND ATOLLS western half of the southern area of the lagoon is therefore fairly well populated by coral colonies, and a very definite set of types is usually found gathered together as a composite mass of growths, these masses being dotted about in irregular fashion all over the bottom of the lagoon. The eastern side of the southern end of the lagoon is more barren of corals than the western side; and this state of things is owing to the effects of the strange happenings of the year 1876. As a sequel to a cyclone which visited the atoll in the January of that year, there occurred an event which to this day has left its imprint plainly marked on the coral growth of the lagoon, When the storm had died down for some thirty- six hours, it was noticed that a spring of dark-coloured and malodorous water was welling up into the lagoon from a source somewhere between the southern end of Pulu Selma and the northern end of Pulu Cheplok. The foul water continued to ooze out for some ten or fourteen days, and it slowly spread all over the eastern portion of the southern end of the lagoon. Dr. H. O. Forbes visited the atoll two years after this event, and has well described the lifeless state of the area over which this water flowed. In “ A Naturalist’s Wanderings,” p. 22, he says: “Its whole eastern half was one vast field of blackened and lifeless coral stems, and of the vacant and lustreless shells of giant clams and other Mollusca paralysed and killed in all stages of expansion. Everywhere both shells and coral were deeply corroded, the coral especially being in many places worn down to a solid base. Since the catastrophe, there has been, till almost the day of my visit, no sign of life in that portion of the lagoon; I saw very few s)he and only here and there a new eon of Madrepora and Porites. I found only one TZridacna alive (its three years’ growth being twelve inches in length and thirteen in breadth).” This description forms avery good basis for estimating the time that is occupied by the corals in renewing their growth, and we have a further landmark in Dr. H. B. Guppy’s account written in 1888. THE LAGOON 193 In the Scottish Geographical Magazine, vol. v. p. 570, he says: “The corals on the shallow flats naturally suffered most from the intensity of the destructive fluid, and even when I examined this locality twelve and a half years after the event much of it appeared a lifeless waste. The dead trunks and branches of the arborescent Madrepores that had once flourished here literally covered the bottom in places. Multitudes of the shells of the 7ridacne, rotten and decayed, strewed the ground; and even the pits displayed on their bare slopes numbers of dead detached plates of Hchinopora lamellosa that had once clustered thickly around their sides. Yet it was evident enough that the corals were in places beginning to resume their sway. ‘Thus, the flats immediately south of New Selma have long since been clothed afresh with rapid-growing branching Montipore and other corals; and even where life seemed completely absent, a cioser inspection usually discovered a few young growing corals and small living clams. However, at least a quarter of a century will have to sueceed the event before the growth of corals can disguise the destructive effects of 1876.” In 1905 and 1906 I spent very many days in drifting all over this eastern area of the lagoon. With a companion in a boat, a start would be made from the south, and as, with the wind and tide, the boat slowly drifts over the lagoon, every foot of the bottom may be carefully examined. Anything that demanded close examination was dived for, or waded to, and in this way a very intimate knowledge was acquired of the present state of the coral growth. Although thirty years have gone by since the pouring forth of this destructive water, distinct evidence of its effects are still abundantly clear; and the time of final repair must certainly be put forward considerably beyond Dr. Guppy’s limit. There are many places to-day where there are practically no signs of life amongst the dead coral masses that cover the bottom, and alge have for the most part been the successors of the coral life. I have watched the dead coral fields for a period of fifteen months, and failed to detect any signs of life in some portions N 194 CORAL AND ATOLLS of them. I have seen the crumbling masses raised into the coral lighter, and boulder after boulder will be rolled in without any one of them showing the minutest portion of new growth attached to it. To the south and west of Pulu Selma there are still large areas that are only occupied by the re- mains of the corals killed in 1876, and the thirty years that have elapsed seem to have accomplished but little repair when the masses are seenraised to the surface. But before this extreme slowness of repopulation may be taken as a fitting criterion for any estimation of the rate of coral growth, the conditions which have prevailed during the interval of thirty years must be reckoned with. In the first place the alge, of which there were many beds on the adjacent areas untouched by the foul water, have, by reason of their more rapid growth and greater hardihood, taken possession of a very large part of the area» that suffered the damage. Before the more delicate and slower growing corals could recover their activity, and re- colonise their ground, the alge had invaded it; and as we have seen, the advent of abundant growth of alge terminates all activity in the coral colonies. When once the seaweeds had fairly settled on the spot, the invariable accompaniment of their growth took place, and sediment began to accumulate in the beds which they had formed. This fact is clearly seen wherever alge are settled—that the lagoon begins to shoal with increased rapidity; alge in the lagoon play very much the part of the grass on the shore flats, for they enmesh the drift sand and hold it fast. The environment there- fore becomes one of rapid silting, and no environment is more inimical to coral growth. It is, therefore, not alone by reason of the slow growth of the coral that this area has not become repopulated with coral colonies; for the time that has elapsed since the destruction is ample for very advanced growth to have taken place. All over the whole of the southern shallow portion of the lagoon are deeper holes, which show plainly as darker patches in the clear water: and a fair general picture of this part of the lagoon is that of a wide stretch of white sand, with THE LAGOON oe 6 185 here and there patches of coral rocks, and here and there deeper holes. The coral rocks rise almost to the surface at low water, and they are for the most part of a bright yellow colour, being colonies of the most abundant type of Porites. At intervals are beds of yellow branching Madrepore and fields of green and white alge; the whole seen through a fathom or so of clear green water. Upon the sandy bottom the rills of wave action are clearly to be seen, running east and west—the imprints on the bottom of the Trade-driven waves of the lagoon. There are, however, very many places in the lagoon where the coral growth is not nearly so freely scattered as that just pictured, and in areas over which the foul water never exerted its baneful influences are stretches of white coral sand, where a coral mass will have no neighbour nearer than one some fifty yards away. From the southern shallows the lagoon deepens towards the north, where it becomes a basin with an average depth of from four to five fathoms. Even in this deeper part, however, there are many spots where the growing masses of coral rise to within a few inches of the surface at low water ;—some are even normally exposed at all low tides. One such mass rises from Dymoke shoal in the northern basin, opposite Pulu Selma, and this rock—known to the natives as Batu Dua, or “The number two rock ”—is exposed for some two feet at most low tides. The transition from the shallow portion of the lagoon to the deeper portion is very easily seen in the colour of the water, and at places the line of demarkation is very sharply cut. The clear green water of the shallow sand-covered portion passes, often very abruptly, into a very beautiful blue, —a clear wonderful blue, which can never be described or made real. The entrance into the lagoon is between Pulu Luar and Pulu Tikus, and here ships may be safely navigated by one knowing the locality. A good anchorage stretches in front of Pulu Tikus with from three to eleven fathoms of water. It is possible for vessels of shallow draught to enter the lagoon be- tween Pulu Luar and Pulu Panjang, both to the north and to the south of Turk Reef (Batu Satu, “The number one rock ”), 196 CORAL AND ATOLLS but the channels are intricate and liable to considerable changes from the rapid growth of coral masses. The growth of corals all over this part of the lagoon is very luxuriant, and very large colonies of Porites are to be seen in the deep blue water; here also large growths of Millepora are seen, and both the great plates of the type complanata and the branches of the type alcicornis are to be recognised. Millepora colonies are as a rule absent, or represented only by very sickly looking growths, over the southern shallows; but in the northern basin some of the specimens are among the finest to be found anywhere in the atoll. To the westward the lagoon shelves slowly to the open sea, and here great masses of coral are to be seen growing in the greatest profusion. The site is one in which practically no sedimentation is taking place, for in any weather the sea is a confused one in the gap between Pulu Luar and Pulu Panjang. When the wind comes from the west, or north-west, very heavy seas roll into this gap, and the whole interval is filled by great white-crested rollers, making any entry to the lagoon an impossibility. The northern basin of the lagoon presents an altogether more varied picture than the southern portion, for it shows every phase of the transition from shoal to submerged reef. It shows at its southern limits the destruction of coral growth by sedimentation, and the shallowing of the lagoon by sand accumulation ; at its northern limits, the absence of sedimen- tation, and the shallowing of the lagoon by coral growth. Some of the coral boulders in the northern basin have grown with very great rapidity, and their removal from the boat anchorage opposite Pulu Tikus is occasionally necessary. Most of these boulders are very large colonies of Porites, which are for the most part yellow coloured, and here grow in the form of slightly flat-topped spherical masses. Another part of the lagoon which is undergoing considerable change, brought about by the activity of coral growth, is the best channel to Pulu Selma, but here it is great beds of the typical form of THE LAGOON 197 Madrepora pulchra which are causing the alteration. ‘l'hese beds are bringing about a somewhat rapid shoaling of the lagoon in this spot, for M. pulchra is a type of colony well formed to resist some degree of sedimentation ; and not only are the colonies growing very actively, but are holding in their dead lower branches a great amount of drift sand. They are therefore forming banks, with living branches actively growing at the summit, and sand, held fast among the dead branches, at the base. Another type of colony thriving in this environ- ment is a plate growth of Montipora, approximating to the type named M. circinata; it plays very much the same part as Echinopora lamellosa does in the southern shallows, and grows upon the sides of the banks, holding the sand back behind its broad leaves. Although the water is,in many places, six or eight fathoms deep over wide stretches in the northern part of the lagoon, the nature of the coral colonies that lie below can nearly always be made out, and where the lagoon falls to the open sea, between Pulu Tikus and Pulu Luar, the parti-coloured bottom may be seen for a very great distance. The fall from the shallow waters of the lagoon to the ocean outside is not nearly so abrupt as has been imagined, for the entrance, lying to the north, corresponds with the northward tailing out of the bank on which the atoll is formed—the bank upon whose northern extremity Keeling atollon is situated. When sailing from the lagoon, the bottom is seen as a patchy background through water that becomes increasingly blue; at first yellow masses of Porites alternate with white patches of sand, and blue patches of the deeper holes ; then the patches blend more, and lighter yellow areas and darker blue areas alone are seen. When still farther from the atoll only the larger patches show at all, and the appearance is somewhat that seen when looking from a hillside upon distant fields, differently coloured by various growing crops. Alternations in colour are seen for long; and the whole picture, from minute detail to complete blurring, fades slowly. I can speak of this point with some certainty, for I have many times been in and out of the lagoon, 198 CORAL AND ATOLLS and have, on calm days, taken a small boat round the seaward side of Pulu Tikus. These beds of coral outside the lagoon are the sites of the most luxurious coral growth to be seen anywhere in the atoll; and Porites grow in colonies whose size is not approached by any in the lagoon, or on the barrier. It is well known to sailors that from some lagoons the water issues, at the falling of the tide, with such force that the passage of a ship into the entrance may be an impossibility. Although there is no tide rip from this lagoon which offers any serious obstacle to navigation, still a strong current is always running out of the lagoon, past the west end of Pulu Tikus, to impinge on the southern and eastern shores of Pulu Luar. The gaps in the island ring that lie to the south and east are inlets for the Trade-driven ocean; in the run between Pulu Tikus and Pulu Pasir the set is always lagoonwards, whatever the state of the tide. As a consequence of this, all the flotsam from the lagoon shores of the inhabited islands is swept away towards the mouth of the lagoon, and it is the well-justified island custom when anything has gone adrift to look for it first on the shores of Pulu Luar. With the rarer westerly winds the opposite effect is produced, and a strong current running into the entrance of the lagoon is brought about ; the waters of the lagoon become banked up, and much destruction of the sandy beaches usually takes place. The wind-driven lagoon water becomes raised above its normal level, sand is swept away, and the old barrier stratum exposed; trees are undermined, and bushes uprooted ; and did a visitor spend only a few days in the atoll, after the coming of a strong westerly wind, he would surely give the world his certain conviction that the sea was rapidly encroaching on the land. In this way, I feel sure, arise some of the conflicting opinions of men who spend but a few days or hours in an atoll; for the visit may chance to be made after a period of denudation by one wind, or after a period of sand accumulation caused by the antagonistic wind. Were the length of the stay to be measured by months or years, the visitor would see the banks come back: the ancient barrier stratum covered again with a thick bed of THE LAGOON 199 white coral sand; and the whole beach raised again by the agency of the wind and waves. He would even see, in all probability, a series of little terraces made in the sandy shores as gradually waning high tides built to their maximum levels ; then he might possibly think that the land was steadily gain- ing on the sea. It is always assumed in estimating any changes in the shore-line that the surface of the ocean stands constantly at the same level, and yet, strange though this may appear, it is not always safe to assume this. It is apparently one of the strange phenomena of far-out blue water that its mean surface-level is subject to considerable variation. Of this strange fluctuation in level, such a place as the atoll forms a very interesting index—it is the Plimsoll-mark of the ocean’s variations. During my stay in the islands I have seen, for a week at a time, and without any variation in the tides, the curious condition of the barrier never being once exposed at low tide. The tides went through their usual excursions, the high tide being higher than normal, and the low tide not so low as normal; but the whole surface-level of the ocean was set at a higher plane than was ordinary. ‘his state of affairs is doubtless brought about by the banking up of the waters of the Indian Ocean, and the event happened after a report had come over the cable that a violent storm of long duration had raged in the neigbourhood of the island of Rodriguez. It was the time of neap tides, and so the increased high tides did not reach the striking level that they would have done had the event happened during spring tides ; but the phenomenon was a very striking one. It is easy to see that if a change of ocean- level—even of very brief duration—were to be accompanied by a combination of high winds and spring tides, imprints would be left on the islands which might appear to indicate a shore movement of several feet. It would not be at all likely that these appearances would be rightly interpreted by a visitor to the atoll who had not seen the process in its making. The average tidal variation is from three to four feet, and the tide’s turn takes, as a rule, about an hour and a half to 200 CORAL AND ATOLLS travel from the south of the lagoon to the north—a distance of about eight miles. The amount of tidal variation is an important factor in determining island elevation, and this will be again referred to in the consideration of the mode of formation of the islands. The lagoon being shallow, calm, and more or less enclosed, is considerably warmer than the surrounding ocean, and some parts—as for instance the back water enclosed by the sand spit at the northern end of Pulu Panjang—are distinctly hot after a day of calm and sunshine. A surface temperature of 85° Fahr. is a very common one for the open waters of the lagoon. 1 XI.