Gc M, L 941.445011 C886S 1335512 GENEALOGY COLLECTION 833 00674 8658 /^ ^--^ ^^1' CRAIGMILLAR AND ITS ENVIRONS CRAIGMILLAR AND ITS ENVIRONS WITH NOTICES OF THE TOPOGRAPHY, NATURAL HISTORY, AND ANTIQUITIES OF THE DISTRICT BY TOM SPEEDY AUTHOR OF 'SPORT IN THE HIGHLANDS AND LOWLANDS OF SCOTLAND WITH ROD AND GUN ' k WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS SELKIRK: GEORGE LEWIS AND SON MDCCCXCII All Rights reserved 1355512 TO SIR JAMES GARDINER BAIRD, Baronet, WHO, DURING A LONG RESIDENCE AT THE INCH, BY HIS COURTESY AND KINDLINESS ENDEARED HIMSELF TO ALL INTERESTED IN THE WELLBEING OF THE DISTRICT "^ 6 1 s ^ o r fi IS RESPECTFULIvY DEDICATED PREFACE .^^. The historical interest which for several centuries has attached to Craigmillar Castle and the surrounding landscape is my apology for the publication of the present work. Such a work, I felt persuaded, would be acceptable to many long familiar with the traditions of the district, as well as to a large number of those who from distant lands have made pilgrimages to the time-honoured castle. The work makes no pretensions to high literary culture, but it does claim to be a faithful and reliable record of the times, places, and circumstances to which it refers. The materials have been collected with much care, after a resi- dence of many years on the Craigmillar estate. The advantages thus derived have been greatly increased, and my labour lightened, by the valuable aid which I have received from several competent viii Preface. authorities in their respective spheres. Among these I would specially mention Mr Thomas Ross, who has supplied me with valuable information regarding the architectural features of the ancient ruin. To several of my fellow-members of the Edinburgh Field Naturalists' Society I am also indebted — especially to Mr A. Moffat, Mr M. King, and Mr John Lindsay, for information regarding the botanical aspects of the district; and to Mr John A. Johnston for the geologi- cal features. To the librarians of the University and Signet Libraries and their courteous assistants I also owe my best thanks for the facilities afforded me in consulting old and rare books. T. S. The Inch, Edinburgh, August 1892. CONTENTS. I.— THE CASTLE: ITS ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES. View from the battlements — Impregnable position of the castle — Suc- cessive alterations on original plan — A curious staircase — The Great Hall — "Queen Mary's Room" — The curtain walls of the castle — Skeleton found in dungeon — The towers of the castle — The living rooms — Ruins of the chapel — Arms carved on the walls . . . . . . . . II. -THE CASTLE: ITS HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS. Derivation of name— Notices in old records — Successive possessors — State tragedy enacted in castle — Its capture by the English — Its intimate connection with Queen Mary — A royal conference — Both well at Craigmillar — ^James VI. here plans his matrimonial tour to Denmark — Battle between the royalist and rebel forces • Sir John Gilmour, proprietor of Craigmillar— Structural altera- tions made by him — His successors — The last tenants HI.— FAUNA OF THE DISTRICT. Badgers — An otter hunt — A "run" with the Duke of Buccleuch's hounds — Story of a stoat — A bat's nest — A "meet" of the Mid- Lothian harriers — Trait of natural affection in a rat — Depredations of voles — Popular dread of "reptiles" — Hatching of newts and frogs — Fishing with a frog for bait — Fish of the district 2 Contents. IV.— AVIFAUNA OF THE DISTRICT. Rich variety of bird-life in Craigmillar district — The aquatic birds — The owl family — Adventure with a tawny owl — Crows and rooks — Story of a cuckoo — "Jacky," the Liberton magpie — Alarm raised from proceedings of a woodpecker — The thrushes and other song- birds— Diving feats of the little grebe — Incident regarding a sparrow-hawk — Food of the kestrel — Wholesale capture of the lark — Superstitious ideas regarding the lapwing — Gulls attacking sickly lambs — Velocity of flight in a pheasant — Do starlings devour larks' eggs? — The tits — The sedge-warbler's song — The sjnaller song-birds ....... 80 v.— BOTANY OF THE DISTRICT. Flora of Craigmillar district rich and varied — Flora of Arthur's Seat long engaged attention — Lists of plants at various dates — Many wild plants now disappearing from old stations — Plants at the castle, &c. — "A natural rock-garden" — Aquatic plants of Dud- dingston Loch — The "Craigmillar Sycamore" — Seedlings from the old tree — Seedling planted by Lord Rosebery at Linlithgow Palace — Inscription at foot of tree — List of some of the native plants . . . . . . ■ . VI.— GEOLOGICAL FEATURES OF THE DISTRICT. Few districts so interesting to the geologist — Various "systems" re- presented— The Carboniferous rocks — The Igneous rocks — Fossils of the district — Examples of glacial action — Craigmillar building- stone — Public and private buildings and other structures for which stone was used — "Hard labour" for female offenders — The Picts said to have built Edinburgh Castle from Craigmillar quarry . . . . . . . . .152 VII.— THE ENVIRONS OF CRAIGMILLAR. Panorama from battlements of Craigmillar Castle — History of The Inch — Its successive proprietors — Cromwell's sword at The Inch House— Nether Liberton— The Boroughmoor and Blackford Hill Contents. — The Barony of Over Liberton — Liberton Village — John Pounds and Dr Guthrie — Proprietors of Upper Liberton — Liberton House and its architectural features — Structural design of Liberton Tower— The Braid Hills— Mortoiihall— The Balm Well— Burdie- house and Straiton — The Pentlands — RuUion Green — The Martyrs' Monument — Hugh M'Kail — Old Woodhouselee — Hamilton of Bothwellhaugh and the Regent Murray — The modern Woodhouselee — The Tytler family — Relics of Queen Mary at Woodhouselee ...... i68 VIIL— PROXIMATE LANDSCAPE. Duddingston village and loch — Duddingston parish church — The Rev. Robert Monteith — The Rev. John Thomson — Easter Dud- dingston Lodge — PefFer Mill — " Half-hangit Maggie Dickson" — Craigmillar Irrigated Meadows — The ancient forest of Druni- selch — Large antlers of red deer found — Bridgend — Priestfield or Prestonfield — Niddrie— The Wauchopes of Niddrie — Colonel Wauchope of the Black Watch — Edmonstone — Little France — Kingston Grange — Moredun — Story of Baron MoncriefF and James Boswell — Stenhouse — The Stenhouse witches — Lady Gilton — Hyvot's Mill — Gilmerton — The "subterranean cave" — The tragedy of Burntdool — The Drum — Successive proprietors of the Drum— Conclusion ...... 206 Index ......... 243 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Craigmillar Castle, Captain Gordon Gilmour, A Group of Newts, Arthur's Seat and Queen's Park The Inch House, ... Liberton Industrial School Pipers, William Charles Little of Liberton, Tombstone in Memory of the Covenanters at RuLLioN Green, Duddingston Loch, Peffer Mill House, Kingston Grange, Gilmerton Subterranean Cave, Ground-plan of Craigmillar Castle, Original Entrance to Keep, Fireplace in Great Hall, . Doorway to Main Staircase, South-east Tower, Corbelled Chamber on South Side, The Chapel, .... PAGE Frontispiece To face 52 74 126 170 182 188 198 208 212 226 238 List of Illustrations. Sculptured Stones, Edinburgh from Craigmillar, Preston Arms, with Supporters, View from Craigmillar, looking East, WOOLMET, ..... Sir John Gilmour, President of Court of Session, The Gilmour Crest, The Badger, .... Long-eared and Daubenton's Bats, . Voles, ..... Long-tailed Duck, The Quail, .... The Pet Kingfisher, . The Barn Owl, .... Cuckoo fed by a Wagtail, "Jacky," the Liberton Magpie, The Great Spotted Woodpecker, . The Goatsucker or Night-jar. The Swift, .... Chaffinch, Bullfinch, and Crossbill, Queen Mary's Tree, Scale of Fish (Rhizodus Hibbertii), . Portion of Jaw of Fish (Rhizodus Hibberiii), Ice-worn Surface of Rock, Queen's Drive, Carboniferous Fern (Sphenoptcris affittis), . The Inch House as it was, Cromwell's Sword, at The Inch House, . Old Cottages at The Inch, . List of Illustrations. Dovecot and Mill-dam, Nether Liberton, " Good's Corner," Nether Liberton, Liberton, from the Boroughmoor, Liberton Industrial School, Peep of Liberton House, Liberton Tower, View from the Braids, Mortonhall, Solitaire, worn by Queen Mary, Queen Mary's Watch, at Woodhouselee, Entrance Door, Peffer Mill, Dormer Window and Sun-dial, Peffer Mill, Bridgend, from the Suburban Railway, . Prestonfield, from Arthur's Seat, NiDDRiE House, ..... Edmonstone House, from Craigmillar Woods, MoREDUN House, . View in Moredun Park, Stenhouse, Hyvot's Mill, GiLMERTON House, Gilmerton, looking East, Drum House, Drum House, from the South-East, 175 176 179 180 187 190 192 194 204 205 211 212 214 216 218 223 227 229 232 233 235 236 240 241 Sraigmiffor end its SmuiroFis. $l4s ^Qstfe — its QreSltGet^ral f^eotiares. HE massive ruin of Craigmillar Castle is a well known landmark to the citizens of Edinburgh and the surrounding district. It is also an object of attraction to strangers visiting Edinburgh from all parts of the world, by reason of the associations and traditions with which its history is invested. From its battlements a magnificent panoramic scene meets the gaze of the observer. To the north towers venerable Arthur's Seat, beneath whose shadow Duddingston Church and Loch lie calm and peaceful. A little to the west, the metropolis, with its castle and numerous spires, stands out in bold relief. In the distance is the Firth of Forth, ever widening towards the ocean, with the Bass Rock and North Craigniillay and its Environs. Berwick Law conspicuously prominent. Behind are Liberton Kirk and parish, Gilmerton, Straiton, and various other villao^es ; the whole being bounded by the Pentland, Moorfoot, and Lammermoor ranges. The Castle of Craigmillar comprises an old Scottish keep, in style similar to many others throughout Scotland. It was of old a famous fortress, and belonged in time of war to the king, no subject being allowed to build castles or strongholds on any other condition. Extensive additions have been made to the castle from time to time. The keep, occupying the centre of the south front, stands on the edge of a cliff about twenty feet high, and is so near the edge that there is scanty room left for access to the door ; while at some parts a foothold at the top of the rocks is all that can be obtained. Immediately in front of the door a deep indentation in the rock almost intersects the path, and before the additions to the castle changed the aspect of affairs, this cutting must have made it almost impregnable, as, apart from the door, there was no other opening on the ground floor except one small window a few inches The Castle — Its Architectural Features. Crai^millar and its Environs. m wide, the other entrance on the west side being of later construction. The cutting in the rock is now bridged over by a modern arch, which carries the footpath lead- ing to the doorway, but the difficulty of access which originally existed will still be understood by examining the fortress from the south ^^"'' ^-*^ side. Up to 1884 this cut- ting was spanned by trunks of trees, and a clear path, protected by the present high parapet, laid across the dangerous point. While repairing the ruin in the year referred to, the late Mr Little Gilmour had the trees removed, as they were showing signs of decay. The doorway, which looks to the west, is round- Originai, Entkanck to kkep. headed, and surmounted by the Preston Arms. Here, as in all the external '4 The Castle — Its Architectural Features. 5 entrances to the Castle, are to be seen long holes cut in the walls, to receive sliding beams, by which the doors were barricaded across. About nine feet from the door the passage divides, the branch on the left hand leading to the ground floor, and the one in front to the staircase. By the former the visitor enters a small chamber, limited in its dimensions by the thickness of the wall, and from which he passes into the large chamber on the ground floor. This is vaulted by a loft}^ arch, beneath which there was an intermediate floor of wood. The under floor was divided by a partition wall into two apartments. The upper chamber, evidently reached by a ladder, was lighted by a window at each end, and had a door of communication with the small chamber above referred to. The staircase leading to the Great Hall has a peculiar arrangement. It is a corkscrew stair, and after ascend- ing about ten feet by a couple of revolutions, it suddenly comes to a stop, when, turning abruptly to the left, another staircase begins, by which the ascent is com- pleted. If the first stair had been continued upwards. Craiginillar and its Environs. it would have landed in the room known as " Queen Mary's Room." At the beginning of the second staircase a doorway overlooks the entrance hall, and the shifting of the staircase here to the side has evi- dently been for the purpose of securing more space '^c^'^Iv^^t FiREPivACE IN Great Hall. for the action of men defending the castle. In the event of the outer door being forced, an enemy could from this point be most severely handled by the in- mates, with comparative immunity from danger. The Great Hall is a noble apartment, 35 feet The Castle — 7/5 Architectural Features. 7 long, 20 feet g inches wide, and 20 feet 6 inches high, to the apex of its arched roof. The walls, which are of an average thickness of 9 feet, are pierced by windows on the north, south, and east, all provided with stone seats. These are each large enough to accommodate six or seven persons, and would be useful as retiring places. The fireplace is a fine specimen of its kind, and is well preserved. There was a crack in the lintel, but the late proprietor, Mr Little Gilmour, had it secured by an iron band. Beside it a doorway leads down by steps to the more modern part of the castle on the west. The hall has been divided into two storeys. The stone corbels for supporting the central beams are painted, the orna- ments on them being still distinct, but of the painting on the vault above very little remains. Off the hall there is, as already indicated, a small arched room, known as " Queen Mary's Room." It is partly furnished, having a table and a few chairs which are used nowadays by picnic parties. There is also an old flint gun and a coat of mail, which tradition asserts to have belonged to Darnley. On the wall Crais'iniUar and its Environs. is a print of Queen Mary, with the following beautiful verses by Mr Scott Riddell subjoined: — "Yes, thou art Mary, Scotland's Queen, Embodied forth by magic art, An image that long, long hath been Enshrined within a nation's heart : And who can gaze upon thee now. And know no sorrow for the tears Wrung from thy heart in passing through The pilgrimage of hapless years? We feel there is a mournful charm, That hides thy frailties in decay, While thinking how a heart so warm Could e'er grow cold as other clay. The white rose shall no sweets impart, The thistle wave no longer green. Ere time shall melt from Scotland's heart The memory of her lovely Queen." As is usual in castles of this type, the stair leading to the top is not a continuation of the lower one. On the opposite side of the passage leading into the Great Hall another spiral staircase ascends. At the first landing a door leads into the floor already referred to as having existed over the hall, and another to an entresol room over " Queen Mary's Room." This The Castle — Its Architectural Features. g latter is a very beautiful apartment, of plain and simple architecture. Adjoining it is a most complete garde-robe. Continuing up the staircase, the top is reached, where steps branch off on either side, leading, the one to the roof and the other to the upper and now roofless room over Queen Mary's. The intro- duction of this room seems to be a change on the original design. On the south front and at the floor level are two corbels, probably the remains of machi- colations continued round the three faces of this projecting part of the castle, while the main flat roof was in all likelihood continued over this part. It is not easy otherwise to account for the corbels referred to. There is further a decided change in the masonry at this level, the stones being smaller and the windows larger in proportion to the size of the room. The rybats, too, are wrought with rounded edges instead of splays, as elsewhere throughout the keep. Doing away with the machicolations, leaving two of the corbels, heightening the wall plumb with the face below, putting on a high pitched roof, and thus gaining a room, are other results of the change. A 2 lo Craigmillar and its Environs. The main roof is very flat, and was originally covered with overlapping stones, the under stone being wrought with a groove along the sides of its upper surface. Two rows thus wrought were laid in their sloping position, with a space between for the overlapping stones, which extended over the grooves, the object of this being that rain blown in beneath the edges of the overlapping row^ would be caught in the groove, and thus run down to the carefully formed gutter. Prior to 1884 the roof was in a very dilapidated condition, in consequence of rain and snow getting in, the stones of some of the line arches were being dislodged by frost, and it was very apparent that unless steps were taken to preserve the ruin, it would soon become a shadowy relic of the past. In the spring of the year referred to, the Edinburgh Architectural Association paid a visit to Craigmillar, and reported the matter to Mr Little Gilmour. With great public spirit, and at very considerable expense, that gentleman had extensive repairs carried out on the building, care being taken that no damp should get down through the masonry. As only a The Castle — Its Architectural Features. ii part of the overlapping stones of the roof could be found, these were put in on the south-west corner, and the remainder of the roof was carefully made watertight with cement. The parapet round the roof is brought up flush with the face of the walls, and most of the embrasures can still be traced. The roof was doubtless con- structed flat for the convenience of working military engines. The total height of the keep from the top of the rock is about seventy feet, and to the base about ninety feet. The additions which have been made at various times have considerably altered the aspect and internal arrangements of the castle, especi- ally with regard to the entrance. In the first instance, a great curtain wall was erected, the keep itself form- ing a part on the south, with angle towers, and enclosing a courtyard. The space within the outer walls averages 122 feet from east to west by 80 feet from north to south. Later, and at various times, within this courtyard, buildings have been added against the curtain walls on the east, west, and south sides. The entrance gateway was in the north curtain. 12 Craigiiiillar and its Environs. Beyond this to the east, west, and north are outer walls, strong and high, enclosing a space of about i\ acre within the castle bounds, which formed the outer bailey or courtyard. The south wall is merely a continuation of the castle front along the top of the precipice. Within these walls, again, various offices were built at different times. The outer wall on the north side runs nearly parallel with the north curtain, and a little beyond the line of the curtain door it turns off at right angles out- wards for about 17 feet, and in this space is contained the first or outer entrance, being a round arched gateway, 7 feet 4 inches wide by 10 feet 6 inches high, in a wall 4 feet 6 inches thick. The position of this gateway is so chosen that, in the event of its being forced, the assailants would not be able to make a straight rush to the door in the curtain wall. It is also commanded by a round tower at the north-east corner, which guards the east wall likewise. This tower was also fitted up as a pigeon-house. The curtain walls are about 28 feet high to the top of the parapet, and 5 feet thick. In the north The Castle — Its Architectural Features. 13 wall, but not in the centre, is situated the door- way, and inside on either hand is an arched recess about 9 feet above the ground, having a spy window and stone seat for a sentinel. These were reached by ladders from enclosed recesses beneath. The east range of buildings is three storeys high, the first two storeys being vaulted. A gloomy sunk floor at the south end is reached by a separate stair, off which runs a lobby leading to the bakery, which has a very complete well-constructed oven. Adjoining the bakery is the well room, and on the opposite side of the passage is a low, dark dungeon, with a private trap-stair to the room above, and a narrow drain through the wall, having a kind of sink at both ends. A human skeleton was discovered here in 181 3 by John Pinkerton, Advocate, and Mr Irvine, W.S., but on being exposed to the air it shortly crumbled into dust. From the fact of its being found in an upright position, Sir Walter Scott and others who visited the place were of opinion that the victim had been im- mured alive. It has been asserted that from the dungeon a 14 Craiginillar and its Environs. subterranean passage at one time communicated with the mansion-house of Peffer Mill. This tradition, however, is not borne out by facts. A layer of Craigmillar rock runs through the entire intervening ground, and from its adamantine nature the cutting of a subterranean passage was highly improbable. The matter was, how- ever, set at rest when the Subur- ban Railway was constructed, ex- cavations being made through the line of the sup- posed tunnel at a very considerable depth, when no trace whatever of a subterranean passage was dis- covered. The beautiful doorway in the east range of build- I)i)()K wan- Ma IX Staircase. The Castle — Its Architectural Features. 15 ings erected about the time of Queen Mary, became the principal entrance to the keep, in place of the old doorway in the south-west side. From the doorway a wide spiral staircase led up to the Great Hall and upper floors of the new wing. On the ground floor of the east wing are offices and a large room, to the south. A private stair in the south- east corner led down to a postern in the west side of this tower, which was doubtless found to be a danger- ous convenience, and it was ultimately built up, the steps being removed, the tower made into a closet, and the large room divided by a thick partition. At the side of the east doorway above referred to, and in the thickness of the wall, a separate stair leads up to the kitchen, which has a large arched fireplace, a stone sink with drain, and a service window into the corridor leading to the Great Hall. The room adjoining the kitchen to the north was a private apartment, having a separate staircase from the court- yard. From the floor above the kitchen the east and north battlements are reached through the south-east tower. These are supported on bold corbels with i6 Craigmillar and its Environs. machicolations, through which stones could be thrown on an enemy approaching the base of the walls. The corbels of the corner towers are slightly higher than those of the walls, and somewhat different in con- owmance brook. The Loncx-Tailed Duck rarely comes inland, but once we succeeded in shootinjj^ an im- mature female on Duddingston Loch. The Pochard is very common, and ever}' year a good Long-Tailed Dick. ^^^^^ ^^^ bagged at Duddingston Loch. This bird is supposed by some to be delicious — the iiesh, it is asserted, resembling that of the celebrated "Canvas-back"; but, in our opinion, it is not to be compared to the mallard, teal, or widgeon. The Tufted Duck is plentiful, and, except at breeding-time, a Hock of them may be almost con- stantly seen on Duddingston Loch. An Edinburgh naturalist lately kept a pair of them as pets, which were ver}' tame, and ate from his hand. They were The Avifauna. 83 hatched and reared by a small decoy duck. Tufted ducks occasionally breed in confinement. Golden-Eye Duck are occasionally found, but not nearly in such numbers as they were some years a^o. Old drakes are wide awake, and generally contrive to take care of themselves. Only once have we suc- ceeded in securin<( one, thouj^h females and young birds are easily and frequently bagged. The Scaup Duck is a common visitor in the spring months, large numbers frequenting Dudding- ston. They resemble the pochard, with this excep- tion, that their heads and necks are black instead of brown. The Moor-hen, or Water-hen as it is commonly called, is very numerous at the loch referred to. The same remark applies to the Coot. Both are ex- tremely interesting birds. The Quail, though no doubt rare, is occasionally found in the district. When partridge-shooting a few years ago in a turnip-field, the dog made a dead point, and a covey of seven (juail rose on our approach. 84 Cvai^inillar and its Environs. The Water-Ousel is a most interesting bird, and is well known on all the streams in the neighbourhood. We are of opinion that it should be included in the singing class, as its low sweet note is frequently heard, even when the brooks are almost co- vered with ice. The King- fisher, the most beau- tiful of all our British birds, is b}^ no means uncommon near Craigmillar. They regularly frequent the Braid burn, and are strictly preserved by the proprietor. Last year we kept one in a cage, which was the most tame and interesting pet we ever had. It appeared to have no fear, and would sit on our The Avifauna. 8s finger in the presence of strangers with an air of the greatest unconcern. Nothing pleased us more than to see it fishing. Putting _ some hve minnows or sticklebacks in a plate among water, it would dart down, quickly secure its prey, and before swallowing would kill it by beating it against the side of the plate, according The pet kingfisher. to hereditary habit. Like most pets, this bird came to an untimely end. The Curlew is seldom seen in the district, but while sitting on the wall of Craigmillar Castle some years ago, seven curlews flew over our head, when a gentleman fired and brought one down — an old cock, and a splendid specimen. Once or twice they have been seen on the irrigated meadows here. The Barn Owl is frequently seen at Craigmillar. 86 Craiginillar and its Environs. Two years ago a farm-servant caught one sleeping in a field near the castle. Getting possession of it, we kept it in a kennel, where we made some experiments by shutting a live rat in beside it. It usually sat on a high shelf, and as the rat remained on the floor, the two did not inter- fere with each other. We were for a long time of the opin- ion that the owl never flew to the Thk barn owi. ground, but in this we had been mistaken, for shutting a badger in beside them, both rat and owl found their way into his capacious maw, much to our regret. The Tawny Owl is plentiful in the locality, and at certain seasons their eerie cries may be heard in all the woods surrounding Craigmillar. Though TJic Avifauna. 87 generally regarded as nocturnal in their habits, owls, when pressed by the cares of providing for a hungry brood, frequently commence to hunt for prey early in the afternoon. In the summer of 1891 we took three young tawny owls from the nest, and confined them in a box, with the view of discovering what kind of food the parent birds would bring to them. We found that young rabbits, mice, blackbirds, thrushes, chaffinches, yellowhammers, sparrows, and other small birds, were included in their bill of fare. It is dangerous for children to go near a nest con- taining young owls, numerous instances being recorded of the parent birds attacking and lacerating the body of the intruder. While out one evening in the gloaming with the object of shooting a few rats for some pet kestrels, we passed the box where the young owls were confined. After a few defiant threatenings from different trees, the male bird flew to attack us, making straight for the face. When within eight or ten feet, he seemed so resolute in his purpose that we threw the gun hurriedly upwards and backwards with the view of scaring or striking him, and protecting our face 88 Craigmillar and its Environs. should he persist in his attack. Unfortunately, at that moment the female was approaching from behind, and as the gun was thrown quickly backwards, prior to bringing it down to strike the male, it met the female with such violence that it knocked her to the ground. She was only stunned, however, and quickly getting up, flew on to an adjoining tree. From the number of feathers on the ground and adhering to the muzzle of the gun, she must have been badly in- jured. For two days she was not once seen, but on the third day we were pleased to see her return to watch over her imprisoned progeny. The male bird did not actually touch our face, but being beaten off, he flew up into a tree overhead, and carefully scrutinised our proceedings. The Short-eared Owl, though rare, we have more than once flushed in turnip - fields when partridge- shooting. Though a few remain in this country the entire year, by far the greater number are migratory. The Long-eared Owl, though the commonest of the species, is rare around Craigmillar. In the spring Tlic Avifauna. 89 of i8gi we brought a young brood from Abington, in Lanarkshire, and after keeping them till fully matured, gave them their liberty. The Carrion Crow, though no doubt rare, is found in the district. A pair make their nest every year in the policies of Prestonfield. The Grey Crow is seldom seen, but we have twice shot one in the Craigmillar woods. The Rook, as in most parts of the country, is plentiful at Craigmillar. A number of rookeries exist within a mile of the castle. We have known a pair of rooks build their nest on a chimney of the Inch House. Jackdaws are numerous, as, with the exception of boys at nesting-time, few people care to molest them in this district. A number breed in the castle ruins. Though not often seen, albinos are yet occasionally met with. A naturalist of our acquaintance has a pair, the one pure white and the other buff-coloured, taken from the same nest last year. The Heron is by no means rare, and may fre- quently be seen in the brooks south of the castle. At dusk it may also be observed winging its way towards go Craiginillar and its Environs. Duddingston to fish for perch, with which the loch abounds. The Cuckoo visits Craigmillar, as it does most parts of Scotland, its arrival being welcomed as the harbinger of spring. In 1888 we were inter- ested to ob- serve that these birds were e x- I ceptionally n umerous that season, as many as twenty being seen flying about at one time. Prompted by a desire to discover the cause of their increase, we shot one, and on dissection found the gizzard full of green caterpillars. As a large number of gooseberry bushes in an adjoining market-garden seemed blighted, we noticed on examining them that the leaves were being eaten by the grubs re- CUCKOO FED BY A WaGXAIL. The Avifauna. 91 ferred to. Watching with interest for eight or ten days, we observed the caterpillars gradually became scarcer, and the cuckoos shortly afterwards disappeared. A friend, while botanising around Cobbinshaw Loch, discovered a young cuckoo, not quite fledged, in a wagtail's nest. Thinking to make a pet of it, he put it in his pocket \yith the intention of taking it home. Having some time to wait for a train, he turned up stones in search of insects, which he transferred into the gaping mouth of the cuckoo. It seemed insatiable, and before the arrival of the train he felt he had made a mistake in removing it from the nest, as to provide a sufficient number of insects to satisfy the bird seemed an impossibility. Anxious now to get rid of it, he, on reaching Edinburgh, handed it over to Mr Dewar, naturalist, St Patrick Square. That gentleman fed it exclusively with pease-brose, made with boiling water, and formed with the finger and thumb into oblong pellets, putting them into the bird's mouth when it gaped, which it did with great eagerness. After keeping it for a fortnight in this manner, an enthusiastic lady naturalist, the late 92 Craigiuillar and its Environs. Mrs Hoyes of Skelmorlie, asked for the bird — a request which was readily acceded to. Putting the cuckoo into a large aviary, where, among many other birds, weire American blue robins, she was surprised, when feeding it with meal-worms, and accidentally dropping one, to see a little blue robin pick it up, and at once pop it into the cuckoo's mouth. She subsequently observed that the same bird fed it regularly, and showed fight to any other bird that dared to come near it. Instances have occasionally been recorded of foster-mothers of cuckoos, in their wild state, starving themselves to death in their de- votion to supply their gluttonous charge with food, when immediately a bird, sometimes of another species, would commence to provide for the young brood. These statements have naturally been accepted with re- serve, but the case in point affords some corroboration of their accuracy. Mrs Hoyes wrote: "I don't know when I felt the loss of a pet more than I do the dear devoted blue nurse which we found dead this morning. I do most thoroughly believe that the poor wee bird starved itself to death in trying to keep the cuckoo The Avifauna. 93 satisfied with food. I have seen it pick up three meal- worms at once when I threw in about a dozen, in the hope it might take one for itself; but no — every one he scrambled for went down the cuckoo's throat, never apparently swallowing one itself. Strange to say, one of the cardinals (Pope, South American) has taken charge of the cuckoo, and is feeding it well." Eventually it picked its food for itself, and up till the end of October seemed to thrive; but on the night of the 30th of that month several degrees of frost were encountered, and "the following morning," the lady wrote, "I saw at once he was doomed, but his end was so gentle that he really seemed to sleep away." This incident affords another illustration of the futility of practising experiments where the natural instincts of the creatures involved and the law of adaptation are not fully considered. In few cases have we found experiments in natural history of the character here referred to succeed. So long as external circumstances constrain wild birds or animals to adapt themselves to their somewhat anomalous position, they will submit to it, but in the long-run 94 Craigmillar and its Environs. nature generally asserts itself, and declines to be governed by artificial expedients. Magpies are plentiful in the neighbourhood, and are most interesting though mischievous birds. They are very destructive to the eggs and young of game, as well as to birds of the singing class. They are long-lived, though reliable statistics of their longevity are difficult to acquire. A very amusing pet, locally known as the "Liberton Magpie," has been kept for a number of years now in semi-captivity, and as its history is interesting, a short account of this bird is here given. In the spring of 1881 Mr Kerr, the postmaster at Liberton, found a young magpie which had dropped from a nest in the Kingston Grange wood, and was unable to fly. Taking it home, he attempted to feed it, but for two days it could not be induced to open its mouth. On the third day it was compelled by hunger to accept the proffered food, and after partaking of it, seemed at once to become reconciled to its new circumstances. In a short time it became very tame, and much attached to the postmaster's The Avifauna. 95 son. It followed him about wherever he went, and was his constant companion in the work- shop. By-and-by " Jacky," as he is called, became very mischievous, and stole everything he was able to lift. All the small tools disappeared, but by watching his movements the hiding- place was found, and the stolen articles recovered. For some time the playing of marbles by boys on the road in the , . centre of the vil- lage had come to be a source of annoy- ance. " Jacky," how- ever, soon put a stop to this. Quick as light- ning he would dart down among the boys, pick up a marble, and fly off with it to his "Jacky," the liberton magpie. hiding-place. But the loss of their marbles was more g6 Craigmillar and its Environs. than the boys would stand, and " Jacky " was sub- jected to revengeful treatment ; stones were thrown at him whenever an opportunity offered, with the result that he has had many narrow escapes, and one of his legs has been broken in two places. In spite of this, however, he has been the means of entirely putting a stop to boys playing marbles on the road. "Jacky" robs all the birds' nests in proximity to his premises, and is often besieged by blackbirds, thrushes, and other small birds, while he is amusing himself in tearing their nests to pieces or regaling himself on their eggs. Sometimes several of his own species appear within sight, when he instantly attacks them, and frequently returns ruffled both in feathers and temper. The only member of the feathered tribe with which "Jacky" seems to fraternise is a rook. For hours the two may be seen together sitting on the high trees that overhang the wood- yard, or flymg about, apparently without other aim than the enjoyment of each other's company. "Jacky's" mischievous tricks became so serious that he was at one time condemned to death. He The Avifauna. gy had long been in the habit of flying at boys and grown-up people, but had never interfered with helpless children. One day, however, he flew at a child, and on the little fellow falling forward, he pecked the back of his head till the piteous screams brought the mother to the rescue. Such conduct could not be tolerated, and "Jacky," as already said, was con- demned to suffer capital punishment. Hearing of the circumstance, we interceded on his behalf, with the result that his sentence was commuted to a couple of months' imprisonment in a cage. Whether his con- finement had a beneficial effect, or whether, as he grows older, he is becoming endowed with more sense, we are unable to state, but he has now given up attacking children unless to defend himself when molested by them. The Great Spotted Woodpecker we have seen at Niddrie, in the policies of Duddingston, and at The Inch. At the latter place one remained for a long time in the summer of i8go. It is most interesting to watch the habits of this bird. After choosing a suitable cleft between two branches, it pecks a hole Craigmillar and its Environs, with its powerful beak, in which it tightly wedges fir cones, thus securing facilities for pulling them to pieces, one segment at a time, in order to get at the seed. An illustration of this came under our notice as we saw the bird feeding, and on climbing the tree the cone was found tightly wedged, while the fragments of others lay in profusion at the foot. In 1890 a great spotted woodpecker for several weeks frequented the gardens in the village of Liberton, and eventually became entangled in a net for protecting strawberries from the depredations of blackbirds. Being secured by Mr Forbes of Craigievar, it was taken by that gentleman to Mr Dewar, naturalist, Edinburgh, with the view of having it stuffed. As it was still alive, Mr Dewar pled that . the bird should be spared, a request which was readily granted. It was thereupon put into Mr Dewar's large aviary at the back of his premises in St Patrick Square, and was fed on American pea-nuts and insect food, which it seemed greatly to relish. Notwithstanding that it appeared to thrive, it did not become reconciled to being The Avifauna. 99 confined, and during the many months it was in the aviary it wrought almost incessantly to effect its escape. It made holes in the woodwork, and the harder the wood the better it seemed to like to peck at it. But for being closely watched, and the holes re- _ c x^ As far ^Wl ^-.- paired, it doubtless would soon :^' have made its exit, as its bill could reach in be- tween the stones, it loosened the plaster from the wall, and, with the greatest amount of "^^^ perseverance, pecked away at V • the iron bars incessantly. On \i^' the first Sunday of the bird's f' imprisonment a zealous police- man on the beat heard a noise in an ironmonger's shop adjoin- ing Mr Dewar's premises. Listening at the keyhole, he concluded that burglars had effected an entrance, and were engaged in picking the lock of the safe. Raising the alarm, the premises were speedily sur- The Great Spotted woodpeckek. Cya'w-inillay and its Environs. rounded by policemen, and a detective proceeded first to the proprietor's house and then to church, where Mr Dewar was, to bring him to the shop. On the door being opened no burglar was found, and it was ultimately discovered that the noise was caused b}' " ane o' Dewar's parrots," as some one dubbed the woodpecker, hammering away with his powerful bill against the bars of his prison. The destruction to the woodwork of the aviary became intolerable, and the bird was eventually confined in an iron cage. This mode of treatment, however, did not seem to agree with him, and he soon afterwards died, having been over twelve months in confinement. The Thrush, as might be expected, is very common around Craigmillar. The severe winter of 1880-81 almost annihilated them, and for several years afterwards they were exceedingly scarce. Now, however, they are again plentiful, and the ear is delighted by their soft and charming melody. The song of the thrush is among the first to be heard after the dull dark days of winter, and it is welcomed as one of the sweetest harbingers of spring. TJic Avifauna. loi The Missel-Thrush, though not nearly so com- mon as the preceding species, is nevertheless abun- dant. It is fond of fruit, and does no little mischief to strawberries in the Craigmillar market-gardens. The Fieldfare is generally regarded as the fore- runner of hard weather, and is one of our most familiar winter visitors. Fieldfares are frequently seen in the district in large flocks. The Redwing is also a winter visitor, and one which soon suffers from severe weather. During frost redwings flock in large numbers to the irrigated meadows, a part of which we always keep flooded in a storm, for the express purpose of feeding the birds which congregate there in thousands. The Blackbird is very common ; and albinos and pied specimens are occasionally seen around Craigmillar. A few Woodcock are shot here every season. We have never known them to nest in the environs of Craigmillar, though they do in many parts of England and Scotland. Snipe are plentiful, and at nights feed in large I02 Craigmillar and its Environs. numbers on the Craigmillar irrigation-farm. The shores of Duddingston Loch constitute perennial feeding-ground for these birds, and numbers are shot there every season. The Jacksnipe is only a winter visitor, arriving in September and taking its departure in April. A considerable number of them are annually shot about Duddingston Loch. The Landrail or Corn-crake is common here. But for its discordant croaking note, few persons would ever be aware of its presence. While spending a holiday on the Island of Hitteren, in Norway, in the spring of i88g, we felt rather lonely in our walks in consequence of being unable to speak or under- stand the language. The crake of the landrail, how- ever monotonous it may be considered, had a wondrous effect in cheering our spirits : we felt as if we had heard the voice of an old friend. After such a confession, it is rather hard to say that we have shot numbers of these birds in second-crop grass in September. The Water- RAIL is not nearly so common as The Avifauna. 103 the landrail, but is frequently seen at Duddingston Loch. The Spotted Crake is a rare visitor to this locality. In 1890 one was found on the road near Liberton, its death having evidently been caused by its flying against the telegraph wires. The Dabchick or Little Grebe breeds every season at Duddingston Loch. For years we have tried to get a specimen of an adult male, but have not yet succeeded, though we have followed them for hours with a boat. So expert are they at diving, that before the boat could be got within shot of one, down he would go ; and while rowing near the spot, and watching for his reappearance, he would be discovered far out of shot in the rear. A dabchick was found near The Inch recently, having also met its death by flying against the telegraph wires. The Goatsucker or Night-Jar, though unknown to many on account of its nocturnal habits, is found in this district. We have often seen one at dusk on a clothes-pole in the laundry green at The Inch. The Peregrine Falcon we have twice seen at I04 Craigniillar and its Environs. Craigmillar. The Buzzard we have only once ob- served, in the Hermitage wood. The Osprey we noticed one Sunday evening in the spring of 1890 circhng round Duddingston Loch, with the evident The Goatsucker or Night-Jar. intention of ahghting. Unfortunately a large number of people were about, and after flying round for five or six minutes, it winged its way towards the south-east. The Sparrow-hawk is frequently seen, and occa- sionally breeds about Craigmillar. It is more destruc- The Avifauna. 105 tive to birds of the singing class and young game than any other of the hawk tribe. The number of bird remains found near sparrow-hawks' nests when they are rearing their young is almost incredible. In March 1887 a female sparrow-hawk dashed with great violence against the plate-glass window of Almora Villa, Liberton, then occupied by Mr Patrick Guthrie, and was picked up dead by that gentleman. It was not unnaturally assumed that the hawk had been in pursuit of its prey, though it was significant that there was no indication of any other bird having struck the window. Some days after, while Mr Guthrie was conversing with his gardener, he was startled by a sharp thud, as if something of a soft or flexible nature had been thrown against the window over- head. On looking up he was surprised to see a bird of considerable size falling to the ground. On picking it up he was interested to find that it was another sparrow-hawk, but on this occasion a male bird. Again it was conjectured that this hawk had met its untimely fate in pursuit of its prey. Our attention having been called to the fact, we felt con- G 2 io6 Craigmillar and its Environs. vinced, after having carefully examined the place, that the hawks were not in pursuit of prey at all. This conclusion was confirmed by the circumstance that neither in this case, nor, as indicated, in that of the former, was there the slightest trace of any small bird having struck the window. How this strange incident is to be accounted for is a matter which will interest most naturalists. We naturally felt puzzled, but in lookmg straight towards the window from a dis- tance, we discovered what to our mind was the true solution of the mystery. We observed that the trees in Mount Vernon wood were clearly and distinctly reflected in the plate-glass — so much so, that it appeared to those looking m to be like an avenue of trees, along which it is known hawks are often seen to skim. There can be no doubt that had the blinds of the window been down, no such remarkable incident would have occurred. This theory is cor- roborated by additional observations subsequently referred to. The Merlin we have frequently seen here, but have never known it to breed. The Avifauna. 107 The Kestrel is by far the most common hawk we have in Scotland, and is often seen at Craigmillar. It is regarded as a friend by the agriculturist, as the number of mice it destroys is scarcely credible. At present we have three kestrels as pets, and unless .compelled by hunger, they will not eat any birds. If a number of dead mice and sparrows are put down to them, the former are all devoured, and a day intervenes before they will touch the latter. On dissecting a kestrel, we discovered four mice and a number of beetles in its crop and gizzard. It is right to mention, however, that when they have to provide for their hungry nestlings, young grouse, partridges, pheasants, and other birds are frequently killed by them. The Lark is plentiful in this district, though large numbers are captured annually by bird-catchers from Edinburgh. An amount of gross Sabbath desecration is continually perpetrated by bands of profligate "roughs" from the city thus plying their merciless work. During a recent winter, when the ground for weeks was covered with snow, most birds, but especi- ally larks, were on the point of starvation, and were io8 Craigmillav and its Environs. attracted in large numbers to any speck of black f^round that was visible. The bird-catching fraternity, taking a mean advantage, cleared the snow off manure heaps, where they spread their nets and captured the birds wholesale, so that for several years thereafter the public ear in this district was rarely gratified by the unrivalled music of these aerial songsters. We have here a species of rascality which unfortunately neither farmers, the officers of the Society for the Prevention of Cruelt}- to Animals, nor the county police have power to interfere with. There is no law of trespass to protect the farmer, however much his crops may be trampled and destroyed, apart from the costly process of interdict ; and bird-catching, as already indicated, does not come within the pale of the law. By the Wild Birds Protection Act, any one, however well intentioned, who takes a thrush or lark from its nest for a pet during the breeding season is liable to be punished ; and yet in the winter months the despicable class referred to is allowed to capture our songsters wholesale without fear of legal consequences. That such a state of The Avifauna. 109 matters is allowed to exist is a blot on our legisla- ture, and it is to be hoped that some humane mem- ber of Parliament may take the matter up, otherwise the extirpation of the lark, not to speak of other feathered favourites, may have at no distant date to be deplored. Grouse we have shot on a stubble field at Craig- millar. It was, however, after a high gale from the south-west, when they had doubtless been blown from the Pentlands. Several gentlemen of our acquaintance have seen them on Arthur's Seat. The Greylag Goose is common in Mid-Lothian, and they sometimes alight on the reservoir of the Liberton Water Company. Golden Plover, after returning from their breed- ing haunts, frequent the fields around Craigmillar during the autumn and winter, feeding on the insect life found on grass fields, turnip fields, and ploughed land. The Peewit or Lapwing is much more plentiful than the Golden Plover, and is to be seen here at all seasons, though large numbers migrate from the no Craigmillar and its Environs. hills after having reared their young. This is one of the most harmless of our British birds. It is most interesting to watch them feeding, picking up worms and slugs off the ground. The bird is very- common in all parts of the country, and, except for its eggs being gathered for the market, is rarely molested. It was otherwise a century ago, when country people expressed great dislike to it, and destroyed it wherever and whenever they had an opportunity. The reason alleged was that this bird, being by instinct led to flit about and scream near any one who obtruded on the solitude of its native wilds, helped to guide the king's troops in their pur- suit of the Covenanters holding conventicles, ^by its being observed to hover over a particular spot. In the revised edition of the Bible, at Leviticus xi. 19, the " lapwing " has given place to the " hoopoe," the latter being now generally considered to be the correct rendering. It is somewhat gratifying to know that the lapwing need no longer be characterised as "unclean," though that stigma is now transferred to "the bird of beauty." The Avifauna. iii The Black-headed Gull is common here, as in all parts of the country. This bird is partly nocturnal in its habits, and we have frequently seen it flying about all night feeding on moths. Though adhering to the coast during winter, it retires inland to breed, generally on an island in some marshy lake. At Pallinsburn, near Coldstream, large numbers breed on the islands in the lake there, and form an attraction for naturalists from all parts of the country. Thanks to the proprietor, Mr Askew Robertson, they are preserved with scrupulous care. The Common Gull is to be seen in large numbers following the plough at Craigmillar, eagerly snatching up worms and grubs as they are exposed to view. The Great Black-backed Gull is also to be seen around Craigmillar. In summer this bird is most destructive to eggs and young game on hillsides which they frequent. During the lambing season they also do serious mischief. We are assured by shepherds that they attack and kill sickly lambs ; and we have frequently seen them gorging themselves on the carcase of a dead sheep. It seems somewhat 112 Craigmillar and its Environs. of an anomaly that this bird should have the benefit of the Sea Birds Protection Act. With the Herring Gull every one is familiar. It may not, however, be generally known that it is an enemy to the farmer : we have frequently seen it disgorge quantities of grain, along with large numbers of worms. Pheasants are to be seen in the woods around Craigmillar. In the spring of 1892 a beautiful pheasant cock, in full flight, dashed against the drawing-room window of a gentleman's mansion near Craigmillar, and such was the force of the impact that, although the plate-glass of the window was a quarter of an inch thick, the bird penetrated it, and fell dead in the centre of the room. Five years previously, we are informed, another pheasant killed itself by dashing through the same window. Partridges are also found in considerable num- bers, as many as twenty brace having been killed in one day in the fields around the castle in recent years. It is a curious fact that this familiar bird gets com- pletely bewildered if placed in other circumstances The Avifauna. 113 than those to which it is accustomed. During the severe storm of 188 1 numbers flew into Edinburgh, no doubt in search of food and attracted by the black ground, when, on being chased by boys, they never attempted to use their wings, but fluttered helplessly about till they were captured. Wood-Pigeons, though not in great numbers, are found in the environs of Craigmillar. A few pairs nest in the dense foliage of the lime-trees at The Inch, where they are allowed to harbour and breed without restraint. Their nests, however, are very frequently robbed by magpies. In one of these limes we have several times removed the eggs of the wood-pigeon, and deposited those of a tame one. Though the young birds were successfully reared, no sooner were they able to provide for themselves than they bade good-bye to the woods, and took up their abode in a dovecot close by. The Starling is numerous in the Craigmillar dis- trict, and may be seen feeding in large flocks in the irrigated meadows and grass fields. There are few birds more interesting than the starling, and it is 114 Craigmillm' mid its Environs. equally at home in town or country. Though gener- ally regarded as insectivorous, we have found their gizzard to contain both fruit and grain. Starlings may be seen feeding on the currant-bushes in the market- gardens around Craigmillar. They also seem to be passionately fond of "rowans," which they devour with great gusto. An animated discussion recently took place in one of our leading journals as to whether starlings were responsible for the partial disappearance of larks, by devouring their eggs. The arguments advanced in support of the conten- tion that they were thus responsible appeared so con- vincing, that we resolved to try an experiment. In an old grass meadow numbers of broods of starlings fed daily, turning up the half dried cow-manure and devouring the insects exposed to view. With the aid of some boys, we collected several dozens of small birds' eggs of different kinds. Making a number of artificial nests among the grass where the cow- droppings appeared most plentiful, we deposited therein three, four, and in some cases five eggs, and from a distance watched the result. Mother starlings The Avifauna. 115 with their young broods came and stalked about with characteristic activity over the spots where the eggs were deposited, but in no case were these interfered with. While not regarding this as an infallible test, we • -, • • • f consider it presumptive evi- ^ dence that starlings are in no way responsible for the scarcity of the lark. The Swift is plentiful at Craigmillar, and breeds in holes in the south front of the castle ruins. Most people wonder at the small hole they go in at, considering the size of the bird. The Swallow also frequents the district. The Sand-Martin abounds, and bores in nearly every sandbank in the district, where it deposits its eggs. This must be a hardy bird, as some- times severe weather is experienced after its arrival. rHK Swift. ii6 Craigmillar and its Environs. The House - Martin may be regarded as the greatest favourite among the tribe of swallows. Its arrival is, in general, welcomed, and protection ac- corded to it when nesting under the eaves. When^ however, it insists on building its nest in the comer of a window, the swallow's notion of the fitness of things does not always commend itself to the cleanly housewife. The Gold Crest is much more common than is generally believed. This bird has been noticed in cold weather in some of the gardens at Newington. The Cole Tit, though common in all parts of the country, is not seen in great numbers around Craig- millar, being partial to fir plantations. The Blue Tit is very common. The female is most ferocious in her attacks upon any intruder approaching her nest. The Great Tit is plentiful in this district, as in most parts of the country. The Long-tailed Tit, though not in great num- bers, is seen around Craigmillar, and sometimes in gardens in Edinburgh. The nest of this bird is well known to the juvenile egg-collector. The Avifauna. 117 The Tree-Creeper is often seen running up and round the trunks of the old elm and ash trees in the policies at The Inch. Jenny Wren and Cock Robin are known every- where, Craigmillar being no exception. The Sedge-Warbler frequents, and occasionally breeds among, the reeds at Duddingston Loch. The nest is generally near the water, among the roots of the sedges, or against stumps of old trees beside the reeds. It is, however, almost impossible for this or any other bird, including the swans, to hatch their eggs or rear their young at Duddingston, so closely and carefully are their nests daily sought for by juveniles, as well as by " roughs " from the city. In point of fact, the provisions of the Wild Birds' Protection Act, so far as the neighbourhood of Edin- burgh is concerned, may be regarded as a dead letter. Though not remarkably melodious, the sedge-warbler sings vigorously, commencing when the sun gets low, and, when the days are at their longest, some- times continuing the entire night. As a consequence, paragraphs appear from time to time in the newspapers ii8 Cyaigniillar and its Environs. announcing that the nightingale has been heard in Scotland, — a statement which has always been found to be imaginary when the place was visited by any practical ornithologist. The Blackcap is a summer migrant arriving in the spring, and leaves as soon as its young are sufficiently strong to provide for themselves. Though we have never seen it in close proximity to Craigmillar, it is frequently observed within a few miles' distance. The same remarks apply to the Garden-Warbler. The Chiffchaff, though rare, we have seen in the district. It is usually the first of the warblers to visit us in the spring. The Whitethroat is often seen on Arthur's Seat and on the hedges all round. This little migrant soon makes its arrival known by singing on the top of the first hedge it alights upon after reaching our shores. It is in beautiful plumage when it arrives, but soon assumes a very shabby appearance. The Wood-Warbler is fairly plentiful, and gener- ally found in tall woods. Numbers frequent the high beeches in Kingston Grange park. The Avifauna. iig The Willow- Warbler is common in this locaUty. The Pied Wagtail is plentiful around Craigmillar. Though a few of these birds remain with us over the winter, by far the greater number only visit us in summer. Like swallows, they congregate in par- ticular places prior to their departure. Under the eaves of the General Post-Office in Edinburgh appears to be a favourite roosting-place after they assemble in flocks. The White Wagtail, though not common, is occasionally seen in the locality. It is not easily distinguished from the pied species, and considerable doubts exist among naturalists as to whether it is a true species or only a Continental form of the Pied Wagtail. The Grey Wagtail is common. A pair nested recently in a hole in the wall of the old mill at Nether Liberton, behind the water-wheel. How they got out and in, when the wheel was in motion, is a mystery, as no one was ever able to see them make the attempt. The Tree-Pipit is only a summer visitor. It is fairly numerous in the woods around Craigmillar. I20 Craigmillar and its Environs. The Meadow-Pipit is one of the commonest of our birds. Though a few remain with us over winter, large numbers arrive from other countries in the spring. The RocK-PiPiT is also common near the coast, but has, as its name implies, a predilection for rocks on the sea-shore. The Snow-Bunting is a winter migrant, and in severe winters is observed on Arthur's Seat. The Reed-Bunting is not numerous, but occasional specimens are seen on marshy spots in this locality. The Corn-Bunting frequents the fields in the environs of Craigmillar. The Yellowhammer is found here at all seasons. The House- and Hedge-Sparrow are both very common. The Greenfinch is very plentiful. In September flocks of several thousands may be seen feeding on the oat stubbles around Craigmillar. The Siskin is a winter visitor, and large flocks are occasionally to be seen in the district. The Redpole is by no means uncommon in this The Avifauna. 121 locality, and is not unfrequently met with on the Braid Hills. The Linnet does not appear to be so plentiful as it was in our bird-nesting days. Some are, how- ever, still to be seen on Arthur's Seat and the Braid Hills. The Chaffinch, though partially migratory, as is evidenced by num- bers of them being killed by flying against the light- house lamps both in spring and Chaffinch, Bui,i.finch, and Crossbill. autumn, is plentiful at all seasons around Craigmillar. H 2 122 Craigmillar and its Environs. The Bullfinch used to be plentiful in the locality. Thanks, however, to the bird-catching fraternity, they are now seldom seen. The Crossbill may be considered a very rare bird, though a specimen turns up now and then. One was recently killed on Corstorphine Hill. The Goldfinch we have seen occasionally about Craigmillar. A pair frequented the avenue at The Inch for some time a few years ago. The Common Sandpiper visits us in summer, fre- quenting the Braid burn and other brooks. The Spotted Flycatcher is by no means plentiful, but specimens are to be observed. They seldom arrive till the middle of May, and leave early in autumn. The Ring-Ousel is a summer migrant. We have often seen it on the Pentlands. The Redstart is a handsome little bird, and up till very recently bred on Blackford Hill. Now, however, that the hill has become the property of the citizens of Edinburgh, a bird's nest is as difficult to find there as the proverbial " needle in a hay- stack." The Avifauna. 123 The Whinchat is found widely distributed over the country during the summer months, an occasional specimen being seen in this locality. The Stonechat, though partially migratory, is found in Scotland during the entire year. A few are seen occasionally on Arthur's Seat. The Wheatear, also a summer migrant, breeds on Arthur's Seat and the Braid Hills. Most of our readers who have examined the fore- going list will now admit that we have made good the statement at the beginning of this chapter, that the Craigmillar district is peculiarly rich in bird-life. To city dwellers especially, it is very pleasant and refreshing to escape for a brief season into the country, and to have the wearied mind soothed by the varied music of our feathered songsters. The citizens of Edinburgh may be said to possess exceptional advan- tages in this respect ; and not the least charming of their rural walks may be found in the environs of Craigmillar, where such " concert of sweet sounds " can be so fully enjoyed. 124 Craigmillar and its Enviro7is. u. lEoton^ of tSe (BrQigmirior ©istrist. Owing to the natural diversities of the landscape in the surroundings of Craigmillar, the flora of the district is at once rich and varied. Here are found height and valley, wood and meadow, marsh and lake, each with its characteristic vegetation. The peaks and precipices of Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags, the waters of Duddingston Loch and its fenny margin, the cultivated fields and plantations around Craigmillar, and the rums of the ancient pile itself, — all these combine to furnish, in a comparatively small extent of surface, a remarkable number of our native plants. Many of these are, of course, the familiar friends that greet the lover of our British wild-flowers in many parts of the country; yet several of them are rare enough to make Botany of the Craiginillar District. 125 us hope they may long continue to thrive in the places where they have for so long found a congenial home. The flora of Arthur's Seat and the country imme- diately surrounding has long engaged the attention of local botanists. The first list of plants found in these localities was drawn up by Sir Robert Sibbald, one of the founders of the Edinburgh Royal Botanic Garden, so early as 1684, and contained 881 species and varieties of flowering - plants ; while about a century later Mr Yalden, assisted by a few other enthusiastic field-botanists, compiled a list of 313 species of plants, mostly growing on Arthur's Seat or Salisbury Crags, for Dr Lightfoot, who was then amassing material for his ' Flora Scotica,' the first edition of which appeared in 1777. With the exception of an additional list of Edinburgh plants, which was drawn up by a well- known authority, Mr R. Maughan, and published in the first volume of the Wernerian Society's Trans- actions for 1808-10,^ no other catalogue of local plants ^ The title of this interesting paper is, "A List of the Rarer Plants observed in the Neighbourhood of Edinburgh." By Robert Maughan, Esq., F.L.S. (Read 9th Dec. 1809.) 126 Craigmillar and its Environs, appeared till 1824, when Dr Greville produced his ' Flora Edinensis,' This now classic work is a bulky volume of nearly 500 pages, and embraces both flowering and flowerless plants, arranged under 1794 species. The need of a smaller and more portable book called forth, a few months after the appear- ance of Dr Greville's work, a pocket volume entitled ' A Catalogue of the Indigenous Phenogamic Plants growing in the Neighbourhood of Edinburgh, and of certain Species of the Class Cryptogamia, with. Reference to their Localities,' by James Woodforde, a prizeman at that date in the botanical class of Professor Graham. This concise list of 806 species, arranged according to the Linnaean system, as was the fashion of the time, is still valuable, furnishing a ver}' interesting record of the plants then growing on Arthur's Seat and within the precincts of the Park, although the author goes occasionally much farther afield. As a pocket companion for the field-botanist in this district, it had no rival, for nearly forty years, until, in 1863, it was superseded by the ' Flora of Edinburgh,' compiled by Professor J. H. Ol Botany of the Craigmillar District. 127 Balfour and Mr John Sadler. Since the publication of this work, now more than a quarter of a century ago, no other book of the kind, dealing with our local plants, has appeared, though, from the extension of the city, and various other causes, numerous changes in the localities of plants have occurred during the interval. Many wild-flowers, also, which at a com- paratively recent period were abundant within the precincts of the Park or in the surrounding district are now either almost eradicated or have entirely disappeared. As examples, the following amongst others are noted in Woodforde's Catalogue as grow- ing at that time in the Hunter's Bog — viz., the Grass of Parnassus [Parnassia palustris)^ the nearest station for which is now the Pentlands ; the lovely little Bog Pimpernel {Anagallis tenella)^ mentioned under the same locality in Professor Balfour's ^ Flora,' but which is not now found nearer than Gullane and a few other distant stations; the Butter- wort {Pinguicula vulgaris), which must also be now sought for on the Pentlands ; and the Buckbean and Ragged Robin or Cuckoo-flower, which are both, 128 Craigmillar and its Environs. happily, still growing near Duddingston Loch, but have long since vanished from the Hunter's Bog. Many other fine plants have left their old homes, such as the Wood Hyacinth and the Maiden Pink, and we can only heave a sigh over their loss. It is related of at least one enthusiastic botanist, who lamented this sad state of matters, that he was in the habit of filling his pockets with seeds of his vanished favourites, and sallying forth to the Park to scatter them broadcast over the heights and valleys. Numbers of our commoner native plants, however, are yet growing here; and the diligent searcher among the nooks and crannies may be rewarded by finding even some of what must now be termed the rarer kinds. In attempting to enumerate the plants of the Craigmillar district, it will not only be necessary to circumscribe somewhat the area, but those plants also more commonly met with must, in a work of this kind, be almost entirely left out of account. Appended to this chapter will be found a list of plants which have been selected as less or more characteristic of the varied natural features of the district. As in many Botany of the Craigmillar District. 129 other "select lists" which have been drawn up, some may be surprised at finding certain names included, and others — it may be their own special favourites — left out. In all such cases one can only crave indul- gence, and plead in extenuation the difficulty of the task. A general idea may now be given of the floral wealth of the included area, by special reference to some of what may be termed the outstanding plants. Beginning with Craigmillar Castle, one or two plants which have possibly been connected with its occupation by Queen Mary, or by others at a some- what later date, may be noted. Thus on the walls of the old building there is still found a pot-herb known as "French Sorrel" {Riimex scutatus), which may have been used by the cooks of the royal house- hold, and thus got a footing here. This plant, however, though now found in several parts of Scotland and the North of England, and often connected with monkish culture, is not native. Another plant formerly used for culinary purposes is growing near the walls of the castle, namely, the Sweet Cicely [Myrrhis odorata). Both the popular and the scientific names of this 130 Craigmillar and its Environs. "herb" have a certain poetic ring about them; and the whole plant is remarkable for its aromatic flavour. Though the Sweet Cicely is found in a few other localities in the neighbourhood of the city, generally near old dwellings or ruinous places, another Craig- millar plant is somewhat rare in our native flora, and is found nowhere else in the Edinburgh district. This is the plant known, curiously enough, as Alexanders (Smyrniuin olusatrum), the young shoots of which were at one time, and perhaps are still in some places, used for the table. Though found here so far inland, this plant usually frequents waste ground near the sea- coast. Of these three Craigmillar plants, only one — the Sweet Cicely — is noted by Dr Greville as growing in this locality in his time, though Woodforde gives Craigmillar Castle as a station for Alexanders. One is almost forced to believe that these authorities left the French sorrel out of their lists intentionally, from the fact of its being a straggler from cultivation, as common tradition now connects it with the name of Queen Mary. To this list of "pot-herbs" perhaps another should be added, namely, the plant known Botany of the Craigmillar District. 131 popularly as Good King Henry [Chenopodium Boniis- Henricus), also found at Craigmillar. The large succulent leaves of this plant are used in the same way as the common or garden spinach, belonging to the family of the Chenopodiacese, or Goosefoots, as does also Good King Henry, Orach, Beet, &c. All these plants are usually found naturalised near places that have at one time been used for human habitations. A plant not very widely distributed in the Edin- burgh district, though common in other places, is growing abundantly in the joints of the old masonry at the castle, namely, the Common Wall Pellitory {Parietaria officinalis). The Creeping Cinquefoil (Potcn- tilla reptans), somewhat local in its character, is also still found here, but more sparingly than it once was. That lovely member of the Borage family, the Ever- green Alkanet (Anchusa sevipervirens) , is noted by Mr Neill as growing at Craigmillar Castle in 1799, and this is just the place where one would expect to find it. Though it has now become rather rare, and in some seasons scarcely a single plant of it can be 132 Craigmillar and its Environs. found, yet it still maintains its ground to the south of the castle. Many of our common wildlings have, however, long since established themselves on the walls and amongst the ruins, and may always be found at their proper periods, as the Thyme-leaved Sand- wort, the Vernal Whitlow Grass, the Dove's-foot Crane's-bill, the Wall Speedwell, the Black Knap- weed, the Wall Hawkweed, &c. The pretty Mountain Crane's-bill (Geranium pyrenaicinn), not very often met with, is still growing near the castle. So also is the Common Mallow, with its bright purple flowers, and the common Comfrey, a handsome plant, from two to three feet high, with clusters of drooping flowers. In the Queen's Park, on Arthur's Seat, and on Salisbury Crags are yet growing a few plants which are well worth a passing notice. One beautiful wild- flower, which, fortunately, from its position on the cliffs, it will be difficult to root out, is the German Catchfly (Lychnis Viscaria), A writer in the 'Scots- man,' over the signature of " Botanist," drew attention a short time ago to this plant, and to other floral features of the district, in the following terms: " One Botany of the Craigmillar District. 133 of the most charming sights in the vicinity of Edin- burgh, in the way of a natural rock-garden on a large scale, is to be seen at present [in the month of June] in the Queen's Park, at Samson's Ribs. The basaltic rock itself — a geological phenomenon of great interest — is always an impressive object, but as one passes along, the eye is arrested by masses of the beautiful German Catchfly {Lychnis Viscaria) growing in luxuriance on the face of the rock, and lighting it up with its pink flowers. In contrast with it there is also the bright yellow Bird's-foot Trefoil {Lotus corniculatus), which tends to heighten the effect. . . . On the road farther east, towards the Windy Goul, overlooking Duddingston Loch, the green turf is jewelled with the handsome yellow petals of the Rock-rose [Helianthemum vulgare), a most attractive plant ; while on the upper road — the Queen's Drive — the rocks during summer are always gay with the most beautiful of our wild plants, including Fox- gloves, wild Geraniums, Spiraea, Teucrium, Milk-vetch {Astragalus), and others, reminding one of a good district in the Highlands." It is not only on a 134 Craigmillar and its Environs. midsummer's day, however, that Flora's treasures are thus spread out here to view, for each season reveals its own special beauties — whether it be the budding time of the year, — " When Daisies pied and Violets blue, And Lady-smocks all silver-white, And Cuckoo-buds of yellow hue Do paint the meadows with delight ; " — or more sober autumn, with its knapweeds and thistles and wild grasses. One little gem of spring, said to be only found in a few places in Scotland and at the Lizard Point in Cornwall, is here so abundant as to merit particular notice. This is the Vernal Sandwort (the Arenaria verna of Linnaeus) — a tiny plant, seldom more than three or four inches high, with com- paratively large, white, star-shaped flowers, which bespangle the turf in spring-time and early summer. It is mentioned by Lightfoot as growing abundantly on Arthur's Seat in his time, and no doubt flourished in the same locality long before that period. Any general notice such as this of the flora of Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags would be incom- Botany of the Craigmillar District. 135 plete without reference to what is now widely known in botanical circles as " the Arthur's Seat fern." This fern, the Forked Spleenwort {Asplenium scpten- trionale), is thus noticed by Woodforde in 1824: " Basaltic columns in the King's Park, and frequent in many other places in the King's Park ; rocks on the south side of Blackford Hill, abundant." It goes without saying that this delightful state of matters no longer subsists. In these days of fern mania it is only in a few inaccessible places on Samson's Ribs that the Forked Spleenwort continues to live ; and though still found on the Braids, it is destined, no doubt, soon to share the same fate there. Mention may now be made of some of the more noteworthy plants growing at or near Duddingston Loch. The first to claim attention is the Buckbean or Bogbean {Menyanthes trifoliata), already mentioned as found in this locality. This is undoubtedly one of the handsomest of our native plants, with its buds of a deep rose hue, and its corolla, when expanded, thickly fimbriated or fringed on the inner surface. It 136 Craigmillar and its Environs. is to be devoutly hoped that it may long continue to thrive here, and not be trampled out of existence by cattle, as it now bids fair to be in the near future. Another somewhat rare plant, which may also suffer from the same cause, is the Glaucous Stitchwort {Stellaria glaitca), which affects marshy ground, and has long found a home in this locality. It is men- tioned by Mr Maughan, in his list of rare plants in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh already referred to, as growing here and at Lochend in the beginning of the century. The visitor to Duddingston Loch in the month of July, or thereabouts, might pass by this humble Stitchwort unnoticed, but could hardly fail to observe the handsome, tall, sword-shaped leaves and bright yellow flowers of the Water Iris (Iris Pseud-acorns), which forms quite a feature in the land- scape at that time of the year. Another elegant plant, which at one time was conspicuous about the same season, but is now becoming very scarce here, is the so-called Flowering Rush (Butomus umbellatus), a rather rare plant, with its umbels of large rose- coloured flowers, introduced at some former period, Botany of the Craigmillar District. 137 though noted in this locahty by Dr Greville and other early botanists. The Common Reed (the Anindo Phragmites of Linnaeus), which adorns the sides of the loch with its tall stems and beautiful inflorescence, is also well worth notice. With the exception, perhaps, of Lochend, the Common Mare's-tail (Hip- piiris vulgaris) is found nowhere else in the Edinburgh flora except in Duddingston Loch, where it is abun- dant. Some good plants have disappeared from the loch through the cleaning out of the too luxuriant vegetation, or other causes. Thus the Water-Soldier {Stratiotes abides)^ noted both by Mr Maughan and the late Professor Balfour as growing here, has now been lost,^ Several species of Water-Crowfoot are, however, still present ; and the Marsh Marigold, belonging to the same family as the Crowfoots, is very conspicuous in the early summer months, with its dark-green leaves and golden-yellow flowers. Last — and least — the ubiquitous tiny Duckweed, or Water ^ It may be mentioned that this introduced plant has thor- oughly established itself in an old marl-pit near Davidson's Mains, now filled with water, where it promises soon to choke out all other vegetation. I 2 138 Craigmillar and its Environs. Ivy [Lemna), is at some seasons very plentiful, form- ing almost a green scum on the surface of the water. There are said to be no fewer than four different species of this diminutive plant found here, but only experts can determine them. As somewhat connected with the botany of Craig- millar, a short notice of what is known as the "Craigmillar Sycamore" may not inappropriately close this chapter. This venerable Sycamore {Acer pseudo-platanus) stands at the foot of the hill near the castle, beside the hamlet of Little France. It is often called " Queen Mary's Tree," from the belief that it was planted by the queen during her residence at Craigmillar. There is no record, indeed, of her having done so, but the statement has been handed down by oral tradition, and as such the tree has been visited for generations by tourists from all parts of the world. A lady long resident in the district informs us that, when a girl, she frequently visited the tree under the care of a grand-aunt, who, if she were still alive, would now be about a hundred and fifty years of age. The belief at that time was, that Queen Mary planted the tree in the presence of Rizzio. Botany of the Craigmillar District. 139 Some one, still inclined to be sceptical on the subject, Queen Mary's Tree. might fairly reply to this, in the words of Sir Walter 140 Craigmillav and its Environs. Scott's "Antiquary," that "it may be only a lie with a circumstance." Still, assuming that the old lady referred to had the tradition, in all likelihood, handed down to her, the fact is at least established that Queen Mary's reputed connection with the tree is by no means a modern invention. About a dozen years ago this Sycamore tree showed certain indications of decay, and fears were entertained that it might succumb to a high westerly gale. After consulting the best authorities, the late Mr Little Gilmour, with great reluctance, in Sep- tember 1 88 1 had the upper branches sawn off, in order that the tree might thus offer less resistance to the wind, and so ensure a likelihood of preserving it. As the branches fell to the ground, a large crop of seed was shaken off, which was carefully gathered, and sown in a neighbouring nursery. The tree received a great addition to its popular fame in 1886, when her Majesty, driving past it on her way to Dalkeith Palace, expressed a wish that it should be protected with an unscalable iron fence, which desire was readily acceded to by the proprietor. Botany of the Craigmillar District. 141 This little incident finding its way at the time into the newspapers, requests came from all parts of the world for seedlings from " Queen Mary's tree." It was gratifying to all concerned that every application could be granted, as an abundant supply of young plants had grown from the seeds referred to above. At the request of her Majesty, a num- ber of seedlings were also forwarded to Windsor and Balmoral, and not a few have since been planted to adorn portions of the Craigmillar estate. Among places of interest to which specimens were sent may be mentioned one which was planted beside the historic church of Ladykirk by the late Lady Marjoribanks ; and another was placed within the shadow of the ruined walls of Linlithgow Palace, the birthplace of the unfortunate queen herself. On the occasion of the freedom of the burgh of Linlithgow being conferred upon the Right Hon. the Earl of Rosebery, that distinguished noble- man, in planting the seedling, spoke thus to a large assemblage : " We do not plant this tree in anything but a kindly spirit to that queen. If she 142 Craigmillar and its Environs. was greatly sinning, she was yet, I think, more greatly sinned against ; and her memory will always be in- teresting to the whole of humanity, and always an affectionate one to the people of this ancient burgh." A metal tablet fixed in the ground at the foot of the tree bears the following inscription: "This seed- ling from Queen Mary's Tree, growing at Little France, Craigmillar, was presented to the burgh of Linlithgow by Walter James Little Gilmour of Craig- millar, and, by permission of H.M. Board of Works, was planted by the Right Hon. the Earl of Rosebery, on 24th Sept. 1886, near the place in which Queen Mary, who planted the parent tree, was born." Perhaps this seedling, standing in this historic spot amid associations so intimately connected with the history of the Stuart race, when grown to stately proportions may prove an interesting memento to future generations of Scotland's beautiful but unfor- tunate queen, with her " Iliad of woes," when the parent tree from which it sprang has, by time or fate, been levelled with the ground. Botany of the Craigmillar District, 143 LIST OF A FEW OF THE NATIVE PLANTS FOUND IN THE CRAIGMILLAR DISTRICT— Including Craigmillar, Duddingston, Arthur's Seat, Salisbury Crags, and Queen's Park. Natural Order Ranunculaceae — Buttercup Family. 1. Ranunculus aquatilis L., Common Water Crowfoot. Duddingston Loch ; also several varieties of this plant, 2. Ranunculus hederaceus L., Ivy-leaved Crowfoot. On margin of loch ; very dwarf. 3. Ranunculus scelevatus L., Celery-leaved Crowfoot. On margin of loch, abundant. 4. Ranunculus Flammula L., Lesser Spearwort. Common all round the loch. 5. Ranunculus Lingua L., Great Spearwort. Mostly on south side of loch, not very abundant. 6. Caltka palustris L., Common Marsh Marigold. Abundant on south side of loch. Natural Order Papaveraceae — Poppy Family. 7. Papavey Rhceas L., Common Red Poppy. Abundant in corn- fields and waste places in the district. 144 Craigmillar and its Environs. Natural Order Fumariaceae — Fumitory Family. 8. Fwnavia officinalis L., Common Fumitory. Common all round the Park. 9. Ftimaria capreolata L., Rampant Fumitory. Common in fields and waste places in the district. Natural Order Cruciferse — Cresswort Family, 10. Cardamine pratensis L., Meadow Bitter- Cress or Lady's Smock. Plentiful round margin of loch in spring. 11. Sisymhviimi Alliaria Scop., Jack-by-the-Hedge. Dry places in the Park in spring. 12. Sisymbrium officinale Scop., Common Hedge- Mustard. In Park, abundant. 13. Sisymbrium thalianum Gaud., Common Thale-Cress. In Park, abundant. 14. Cheiranthus Cheiri L., Common Wallflower. Craigmillar Castle. 15. Sinapis arvensis L., Charlock or Wild Mustard. Unhappily only too common in corn-fields in the district. 16. Barbar^a vulgaris R. Br., Yellow Rocket. Abundant in the district. 17. Draba verna L., Common Whitlow-grass. Craigmillar Castle. Natural Order Cistineae — Rock-rose Family. 18. Helianthemum vulgare Gaert., Common Rock-rose. Generally distributed in dry rocky places on Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags. Botanv of the Craigmillar District. 145 Natural Order Caryophylleae — Chickweed Family. 19. Silene infiata Sm., Bladder Campion. In the Park, not common. 20. Lychnis Viscavia L., German Catchfly. Samson's Ribs. 21. Lychnis Flos-cucnli L., Ragged Robin. Margin of loch, common. 22. Sagina prociimhens L,, Procumbent Pearlwort. In the Park, common. 23. Avenaria vevna L., Vernal Sandwort. In perfection on southern slopes of Arthur's Seat ; rare and local. 24. Armaria serpyUifolia L., Thyme-leaved Sandwort. Craigmillar Castle and Park. 25. Stellaria glauca With., Marsh Stitchwort. East side of loch. 26. Stellaria uliginosa Murr., Bog Stitchwort. Margin of loch in some places. 27. Cerastimn arvense L., Field Chickweed. Arthur's Seat, very sparingly. Natural Order Malvaceae — Mallow Family. 28. Malva sylvestris L., Common Mallow. Craigmillar. Natural Order Hypericineae — St John's Wort Family. 29. Hypericum qtiadranguluiii L., Square-stalked St John's Wort. West side of loch, on wet ground. 30. Hypericum ptdchriim L., Small upright St John's Wort. Arthur's Seat. Natural Order Geraniaceae — Crane's-bill Family. 31. Geranium pratense L., Blue Meadow Crane's-bill. Queen's Park. 32. Geranium sanguinenm L., Bloody Crane's-bill. South side of Park ; one of the prettiest of our native geraniums. K 146 Craigmillar and its Enviro7is. 33. Geranium molle L., Dove's-foot Crane's-bill. Common at Duddingston. 34. Geranium pyrenaicum L., Mountain Crane's-bill. Craigmillar and Salisbury Crags. Not plentiful. 35. Geranium Robertianum L., Herb Robert. Near old walls and stony places, very common in district. 36. Erodium cicutarium Sm,, Hemlock-leaved Stork's-bill. South side of Park. Natural Order Leguminosse-^Pea and Bean Family. 37. Ulex europcBus L., Common Furze or Whin. East side of Park. 38. Ononis arvensis L., Rest- Harrow, Duddingston and Queen's Park, in dry places. 39. Trifolium arvense L., Hare's-foot Trefoil. South side of Park. 40. Trifolium procunihens L., Hop Trefoil. Duddingston, in dry places. 41. LoUis corniculatus L., Bird's-foot Trefoil. Arthur's Seat and Park. 42. Astragalus Hypoglottis L., Purple Milk-vetch. Queen's Park; very pretty in early summer. 43. Lathyrtis pratensis L., Yellow Meadow Vetchling. Hedges about Duddingston. Natural Order Rosaceae — Rose Family. 44. Spiraa Filipendula L., Common Dropwort. Queen's Park, not now common. 45. Alchemilla vulgaris L., Common Lady's Mantle. Queen's Park, common. Botany of the Craigmillar District. 147 46. Potentilla verna L., Spring Cinquefoil. South side of Park, dry places ; one of our rarer spring flowers. 47. Potentilla reptans L., Creeping Cinquefoil. Craigmillar, not plentiful. 48. Ruhiis I diensh.., Common KdiS^herxy. East side of Arthur's Seat. 49. Rosa spinosissima L., Burnet-leaved Rose. Still to be found in Queen's Park. Natural Order Onagrarieae — Evening Primrose Family. 50. Epilohinm palustre L., Narrow-leaved Marsh Willow-herb. Side of loch. 51. EpiloUum parviflonim Schreb., Small-flowered Hairy Willow- herb. Side of loch. 52. Epilohinm hirsutum L., Great Hairy Willow-herb. Side of loch. Natural Order Haloragese — Mare's-tail Family. 53. Hippuris vulgaris L., Common Mare's-tail. Duddingston Loch. Natural Order Crassulacese — Stonecrop Family. 54. Sedum acre L., Biting Stonecrop. South side of Park, in rocky places. 55. Saxifraga granulata L., White Meadow Saxifrage, North side of loch, on dry ground. Natural Order Umbelliferse — Umbelliferous Family. 56. Hydrocotyle vulgaris L., Marsh Penny-wort] West side of loch, on boggy ground. 57. Helosciadium nodiflorum Koch., Procumbent Marshwort. East side of loch, not very abundant. 148 Craigmillar and its Environs. 58. Helosciadium nodiflovum var. vepens, Creeping Marshwort. East side of loch ; not a common plant in the British flora. 59. yEgopodimii Podagvaria L., Common Gout-weed. Craigmillar, plentiful. 60. Bunium flexuosum With., Common Earth-nut. Queen's Park, plentiful. 61. Slum angustifolium L., Narrow-leaved Water-parsnip. Margin of loch, plentiful ; not often found in Scotland. 62. Tovilis nodosa Gaert., Hedgehog Parsley. Queen's Park, in dry places. 63. Myvvhis odorata Scop., Sweet Cicely. Craigmillar. 64. Smyvnium Olusatrum L., Common Alexanders. Craigmillar. Natural Order Rubiacese — Madder Family. 65. Galium palnstve L., White Water Bed-straw. Margin of loch. 66. Shevavdia arvensis L., Blue Sherardia or Field- Madder. South side of Park, not plentiful ; apt to be overlooked from its diminutive size. Natural Order Compositse — Composite Family. 67. Filago gevmanica L., Cudweed. South side of Park, on dry sandy places. 68. Senecio aquaticus Huds., Marsh Ragwort. Margin of loch, common. 6g. Senecio viscosus L., Stinking Groundsel. Not a common plant generally, but very plentiful on Arthur's Seat. 70. Lapsana communis L., Common Nipplewort. Queen's Park and Craigmillar. 71. Sonchus asper Hofim., Shavp-hinged Annual Sow-thistle. South side of Park, not plentiful. Botany of the Craigmillar District. 149 72. Cvepis virens L., Smooth Hawk's Beard. South side of Park, common. 73. Hieracium Pilosella L., Mouse-ear Hawk-weed. Queen's Park and Duddingston, common. Natural Order Gentianeae — Gentian Family. 74. Menyanthes trifoliata L., Buckbean or Bogbean. South side of loch. Natural Order Boragineae — Borage Family. 75. Anchisa sempervirens L., Evergreen Alkanet. South side of Craigmillar Castle, not plentiful. 76. Symphytum officinale L., Common Comfrey. Craigmillar. 77. Echium vidgare L., Common Viper's Bugloss.' North slope of Arthur's Seat, abundant ; sparingly on south side. 78. Myosotis palnstvis With., Water Scorpion-Grass. Margin of loch, common in spring. 79. Myosotis arvensis Hoffm., Field Scorpion-Grass. South side of Park. Natural Order Scrophularineae — Figwort Family. 80. Veronica scutellata L., Marsh Speedwell. Margin of loch. 81. Vevonica Anagallis L., Water Speedwell. Margin of loch. 82. Veronica Beccabunga L., Brooklime. Margin of loch. Natural Order Labiatae — Deadnettle Family. 83. Mentha aquatica L., Water Capitate Mint. Margin of loch. 84. Lamiiim amplexicaule L., Henbit Deadnettle. Hedge-bank at Duddingston. 85. Lamium incisiim Willd., Cut-leaved Deadnettle. Hedge-bank at Duddingston. 150 Craigmillar and its Environs. Natural Order Chenopodiacese — Goosefoot Family. 86. Chenopodinm Bouus-Henricus L., Good King Henry or Mercury Goosefoot. Craigmillar. Natural Order Polygoneae — Buckwheat Family. 87. Rumex conglomeratus Murr., Sharp Dock. Margin of loch, common. 88. Polygonum amphibium L., Amphibious Buckwheat. Abundant in loch, both in shallow and deep water. Natural Order Iridese — Iris Family. 89. Iris Pseud-acorns L., Yellow Water Iris. Margin of loch. Natural Order Junceae — Rush Family, go. Juncus effusus L., Common Soft Rush. Queen's Park and Duddingston. 91. Juncus bufonuis L., Toad Rush. Margin of loch. Natural Order Alismacese — Water-Plantain Family. 92. Alisma Plantago L., Greater Water-Plantain. Shallow and deep water in loch, plentiful. 93. Butomus unihellatus L., Flowering Rush, Duddingston Loch, not plentiful. Natural Order Typhacese — Bulrush Family. 94. Sparganium ramosum Huds., Branched Bur-reed. East end of loch, plentiful. Natural Order Cyperacese — Sedge Family. 95. Eleocharis pahistris Br., Creeping Spike-rush. Duddingston Loch, and wet places in Queen's Park. Botany of the Craigmillar District. 151 96. Carex ovalis Good., Oval-spiked Carex. Margin of loch. 97. Cavex ripayia Curt., Great Common Carex. Margin of loch. Natural Order Filices — Fern Family. 98. Asplenium septentvionale Hull, Forked Spleenwort. Arthur's Seat and Samson's Ribs, not now plentiful. 99. Asplenium Ruta-muraria L., Wall-Rue. Abundant on old walls about Queen's Park and Duddingston. Natural Order Equisetaceae — Horse-tail Family. 100. Equisetum palustre L., Marsh Horse-tail. Margin of loch, common. [Grasses and Mosses, not included in the above list, are rather plentiful in the district. About forty species of Grasses and over twenty species of Mosses are given for this comparatively small area in Balfour's ' Flora of Edinburgh,' though some of these are no longer to be found there.] 152 Craigmillar and its Environs. UI. $fie; (peofoglear l^eat^rss. The Craigmillar district has long been held to be one of the most favoured spots in Scotland, from a geologist's point of view. Few places, indeed, offer to the geologist so many advantages, and afford such a varied field for his investigations. Within a radius of a few miles from Craigmillar Castle a section of the earth's crust can be had embracing a series of rock groups from the Lower Silurian to the upper members of the Carboniferous System. It will thus be evident that before we could have such a rich field of observation laid out before us, within so limited an area, the various agencies that have contributed to bring about such remarkable results must neces- sarily have been of a gigantic kind. The neighbour- The Geological Features. 153 hood furnishes numerous examples of the violent nature of these agencies, and the part they played in the configuration of the surrounding country as we now see it. The greater part of the South of Scotland belongs to the Lower Silurian system, the earlier beds of this series of rocks forming the range of the Moorfoot Hills, which border the southern extremity of the region we propose including in our sketch of the geology of the Craigmillar district. This system may be fairly taken as representing the backbone on which the upper groups of later deposits rest ; and from these beds of the Lower Silurian we will ask the reader to accom- pany us while we endeavour to explain the different and successive measures as they occur — taking them up, as far as possible, in their geological sequence. Following this range in a westerly direction, the Lower Silurian of the Moorfoots abuts against the Pentlands, giving place to the upper members of the same system, these again being surmounted by the sandstones and grits of the Old Red Sandstone form- ing this part of the Pentlands. The Pentlands them- 154 Craigmillar and its Environs. selves, stretching in a north-easterly direction towards the south of Edinburgh, are joined at their northern end by the Braid and Blackford hills. The Pentlands attain a considerable elevation, some parts being fully igoo feet above sea-level. This range of hills plays a very important part in the stratification of the district, forming a great anticline, with its axis ex- tending along the line of the ridge, and continuing northwards till it reaches the sea, — its effect on the strata being to alter the bedding, and cause it to dip in an easterly and westerly direction from its sides. On the east side of the anticline this alteration of the strata is much augmented by a great fault or dislo- cation which runs along the base and parallel with the Pentlands, throwing up the lower beds of the Calcifer- ous Sandstone series — i.e., the red-coloured sandstones that rest on the top of the Old Red Sandstone. The Carboniferous or coal-bearing rocks of Scotland have been divided into four groups — namely : (i) The Calciferous Sandstone series, which occupy the lowest position ; (2) The Carboniferous Limestone series ; (3) The Millstone Grit series ; and (4) The Upper or Flat Coal-measures. The Geological Features. 155 Each of these groups is well represented in the neighbourhood of Craigmillar. Beginning with the lowest of them, we have already seen how the strata of the first or Calciferous Sandstone series have been folded over the Pentland anticline, and the lower beds of the same formation tilted up by the great fault on the east side, so that instead of having the same strata appearing on both sides of the anticline, those on the east side are of a much earlier date. This formation extends in a narrow belt or strip along the foot of the Pentlands on its eastern side as far as Carlops, running along the base of the Moorfoots, and turning northwards by Borthwick and Roman Camp, eventu- ally reaching the sea at Aberlady, and forming the outer edge of the Mid-Lothian coal-basin. To the west of Edinburgh, and west of the Pentland anticline, the strata of this formation are more fully represented than on the east side, the Pentland fault having thrown out a considerable depth of strata in the latter, so that we have the Burdiehouse Limestone, with a comparatively thin section of strata intervening be- tween it and the Gilmerton Limestone (the lower limestone of the next series above), where, on the 156 Craigmillar and its Environs. other hand, upwards of 2500 feet of strata occur between the two hmestones on the west side. The oil -shales, so extensively worked in Mid -Lothian and Linlithgowshire, belong principally to this division of the Calciferous Sandstone group, namely, between the two limestones of Burdiehouse and Gilmerton. The Carboniferous Limestone series — the next divi- sion following the Calciferous Sandstone — begins in the district with the Gilmerton Limestone — the bottom limestone of the group. Above this other two limestones occur ; following these, a series of sandstones, with several workable seams of coal ; then an ironstone ; and above these again, other bands of limestone, forming the top of the group. The coals and ironstones are extensively worked in the neighbourhood of Loanhead, Gilmerton, and Niddrie. Owing to the Pentland fault, the strata adjoining it are highly inclined, and are known locally as the " edge coals " ; above these comes the third group of strata, known as the Millstone Grit ; and finally, on the top of the Millstone Grit, the last division of the Carboniferous System — the Flat or true Coal-measures of the Dalkeith coal-field. The Geological Features. 157 These four groups, as we have them east of Craig- millar, form an immense basin, the northern side of which is cut off by the sea. On the opposite or Fife shore the strata again appear, and much in the same order. Above the Carboniferous system no rocks of a later date occur in the district — nothing, in fact, till the deposits of the Glacial Period, namely, boulder-clay and drift accumulations. The Igneous Rocks of the district present a very striking appearance in the landscape — Arthur's Seat, a volcanic neck, with the basalt plug forming its apex, probably of early Carboniferous age ; and the high mural escarpment of Salisbury Crags, consisting of dolerite ejected between strata of the Calciferous Sandstone. This bed, as well as that known as the St Leonard's Crag, were both ejected late in the geological scale, and belong to Tertiary times. These bold escarpments afford most important evidence of the denudation of the district, with the characteristic " crag-and-tail " of the different prominences, such as the Castle Rock of Edinburgh, the Calton Hill, and Salisbury Crags. The igneous rocks of the Pentlands very probably had their origin during Old 158 Craigmillar and its Environs. Red Sandstone times ; while there can be no doubt that the porphyrites and felstones of the northern end of the range were erupted during the close of the deposition of the upper beds of the Old Red Sand- stone and the beginning of the Carboniferous system. The Mid-Lothian basin is comparatively free from eruptive rocks, with the exception of a dyke that cuts through the most northerly part of the basin, and which, probably, is a continuation to the east of one of the parallel dykes which traverse the mid- land counties of Scotland west of Edinburgh. The environs of Craigmillar and the adjacent district afford ample scope to the collector of fossils, nearly all the rocks we have mentioned being fossili- ferous. The beds of the Lower Silurian system are but sparingly fossiliferous, although they offer a good field for the geologist, and will repay the labour of those disposed to devote their time to this series of strata. The Upper Silurian of the Pentlands has yielded a goodly number of fossils. Some fossiliferous beds of this formation occur at Nine-Mile-Burn, on the Pentlands, south-west of Glencorse. The Old Red Sandstone of the Pentlands, so far as known. Tlic Geological Features. 159 is not fossiliferous. The Carboniferous rocks of the neighbourhood are everywhere rich in fossil remains, ScALK OF Fish {Rhizodus Hibbertii), Burdiehouse. {Nat. size — Carbotiiferous.) which are easily got at. The Burdiehouse Limestone, a calciferous limestone, has long been a favourite hunting-ground for Edinburgh geologists. The lime- stone, being of an estuarine nature, contains many i6o Craigmillar and its Environs. beautiful specimens of fish teeth, scales, &c., besides Portion of Jaw of Fish {Rhizodus Hibbertii), Gilmerton. [Half nat. size — Carboniferous.) furnishing numerous fine forms of plant life, as ferns. The Geological Features. i6i lepidodendra, stigmaria, &c. The Gilmerton Lime- stone, being higher in the scale, and a marine deposit, furnishes many good specimens of corals, encrinites, and shells. The coal workings in this group of strata at Loanhead, Gilmerton, and Niddrie are all favour- able places for the collector. The belt of strata known as the Millstone Grit is, comparatively speak- ing, unfossiliferous, few specimens being found in any of the beds, and those which are present being probably stragglers from the formation below. The Upper Coal-measures of the Dalkeith coal-field are, however, rich in fossil remains, and from the number of pits, and the refuse-heaps of disused workings in this group, many opportunities of securing specimens are offered to the collector. Those interested in the action of ice during the Glacial Period will find numerous examples of glaci- ation in the neighbourhood. Scarcely a projecting rock, indeed, but shows unmistakable evidence of the polishing it has undergone, the striae, in many cases, being very fine. Good examples of this glacial action are to be seen at Arthur's Seat, the top of Salisbury Crags, and the Queen's Drive above Samson's Ribs, 1 62 Craigmillar and its Environs. as well as along the ridge of the Pentlands. At the south-west side of Arthur's Seat, where the Queen's Drive passes between the main body of the hill and the knoll above Samson's Ribs, some beautiful examples of ice-worn rocks were exposed to view Ice-worn Surface op Rock, Queen's Drive (South-west side of Arthur's Seat). during the construction of the roadway, part of which can now be seen, on the left side of the road going east, as shown in the above illustration. The physical conditions of the district we have been viewing, as, indeed, of the whole of the northern The Geological Features. 163 hemisphere, during what is known as the Ice Age or Glacial Period, must have been simply marvellous, taxing the powers of the human imagination to con- ceive of them. According to Sir Archibald Geikie, "the high grounds of Britain were important enough to have their own independent ice, which, as the striae show, radiated outward, some of it passing westwards into the Atlantic, and some of it eastward into the North Sea." The mass of ice which thus moved over Scotland, and south as far as Middlesex, at that period was so great that the broad plains of Perthshire are believed to have been filled up by it to a depth of fully 2000 feet. The subject is too wide and technical for any extended notice in a work such as the present ; but there is now an extensive literature upon it, notably Professor J. Geikie's classical work, 'The Great Ice Age.' Several local geologists, also, have described the glacial features of the Edinburgh dis- trict, where, as we have already remarked, examples of ice-action are numerous. The "deposits" of the Glacial Period — the boulder-clay and drift — already mentioned, are also numerous and well marked in this district. Indeed, the greater part of the New 164 Craigmillar and its Eftvirons. Town of Edinburgh is built on the boulder-clay. Several examples of the huge blocks of stone, or " travelled rocks," characteristic of the boulder-clay deposit, are found in this neighbourhood, more par- ticularly at the sea-shore, where they have often proved a source of wonder to observers not acquainted with their history. The boulder-clays, as well as the whole subject of the natural features of this district during successive geological periods, were described by the late Hugh Miller, in his well-known picturesque style, in two lectures delivered to the members of the Edinburgh Philosophical Institution. These lectures are now included in a posthumous volume entitled ' Edinburgh and its Neighbourhood.' Before concluding this short sketch of the geo- logical features of the Craigmillar district, a few words may be said regarding the Craigmillar building-stone. Craigmillar sandstone has been quarried for centuries — the castle and other buildings in the district, in- cluding the older portion of The Inch House, having been built from it. In the erection of George Square, the Regent Bridge, the barracks at Piershill, the Edinburgh Water Company's reservoirs, and many The Geological Features. 165 edifices in the New Town, Craigmillar stone was used. In this age of haste and competition the stone is regarded as being too hard for architectural purposes ; indeed, few smiths can now temper tools to withstand its adamantine nature. It is, however, unequalled for the building of dwelling- houses, being almost impervious to damp, a block of stone weighing practically no heavier after being steeped for days in water than it did when dry. It is also very useful for dock purposes, in consequence of its power of resistance to the action of salt water, and large contracts for its use have from time to time been entered into when harbours were about to be constructed. In the ' History of George Heriot's Hospital,' by William Steven, we are informed that, in the erection of that edifice, part of the material was brought from Craigmillar quarry. What is more remarkable is, that the stones were drawn in " cairts " by "wemen." "It must not be supposed," says the above-named writer, " that females were generally put to such servile and shocking work in the seven- teenth century. . . . These women were hardened offenders, upon whom every kind of Church censure i66 Craigmillar and its Environs. had been fruitlessly expended." In those days there were no houses of correction, and the magistrates apparently tried the effect of public exposure. To prevent the prisoners' escape locks and shackles were used, and men to watch over them. There are several disused quarries around Craig- millar, some of which have been filled up with refuse from the city. To the north-west, but in close proximity to the castle, are two large excavations from which stones for the building of the docks at Leith were taken, — a line of railway running into both, and the rails being lifted at the termination of the contract. One of the quarries is still worked ; while in the case of the other, buildings have been erected in it for the manufacture of rockets. That well-known writer, Dr Robert Chambers, in his ' Picture of Scot- land,' says : " There is a popular tradition that the stone used in the earliest construction of Edinburgh Castle was taken from Craigmillar. It is still further affirmed that it was built by the Picts, and that, in the want of wheeled carriages, these indefatigable artificers — who, by the way, get the credit in Scotland of building all old or stupendous public works — trans- The Geological Features. 167 ported the stone in their hands, a Hne of carriers being planted all the way between the quarry and the castle, and each individual handing the huge lump forward to his next neighbour, who in his turn sent it still farther on towards its destination." If the Picts, unlike the builders of the Pyramids, possessed no mechanical contrivances, the labour of transporting blocks of stone by hand from Craigmillar quarry to the top of the Castle rock at Edmburgh, must have been efreat indeed! Carboniferous Fern {Sphenopteris affifiis), Burdiehouse (Nat. size.\ 1 68 Crai^millar and its Environs. UII. $fie: inuIroKS of (^raigmiffQr. As indicated in a previous chapter, a magnificent panorama meets the gaze of the observer from the battlements of Craigmihar Castle. Dr Begg, in his Statistical Account of the parish in 1839, says of the castle: "It is the heart of Mid-Lothian, and there is not in Britain a more commanding view of rich and varied scenery, including wood, water, a fine city, and a richly cultivated country, than ma}- be got from it." We propose in what follows to take up in order some of the salient features which thus come under our notice from this coign of vantage. The Inch. — Looking westward from the battle- ments of Craigmillar, a view of The Inch House can be obtained, peeping out from amongst the trees. The Environs of Craigniillar 169 " Inch," as is well known, signifies an island, and at one time the house was surrounded by water, the The Inch House as it was. access to it being by means of a drawbridge. Even within recent years, after exceptionally heavy rains 170 Craigmillar and its Environs. the surrounding parks have been so extensively inun- dated as to resemble a lake. From a charter granted in the fourteenth century, The Inch appears to have belonged to the Abbey of Holyrood. The oldest date on the house is 161 7, above a doorway, which was the original and only entrance at that period. The date 1634 also appears above a window on the lower part of the house, indicating that it must have been an addition. The initials of Winram, descended from the Winrams of Clydesdale, show that it belonged to that family. Besides The Inch, they were possessors of Nether Liberton and part of Over Liberton. The right of the north aisle in the kirk was ratified to Winrame of Liberton in 1621.^ George Winram of Liberton, son of James Winram of Liberton, was admitted advocate on 20th December 1626. He undertook in 1639 the some- what dangerous task of presenting to the king, at London, the Act of the General Assembly which abolished Episcopacy, to which the king replied, " When they have broken my head they will put ^ ' Index to Scottish Acts of Parliament,' p. 779. ^^ ^, \f rilnf , ■ '^ . i The Ejtvirons of Craigmillar, 171 on my cowl." Mr Winram did considerable service to the cause of the Covenant during his residence in England. He was one of the Commissioners for the county of Edinburgh in the Parliaments of 1643 and 1649, and a member of the various com- mittees of estate and war which were formed from time to time. He was appointed colonel of one of the regiments in the army ordered to be raised for the defence of the country in February 1649, and in the following month was sent by the General Assembly to accompany the Commissioners from the Estates appointed to treat with Charles H., then in Holland, as to the terms on which he could be allowed to assume the government of Scotland. Mr Winram was a second time sent, in November 1649, as the bearer of a letter from the Estates urging Charles to comply with their requests. He was admitted as an Ordinary Lord, under the title of Lord Liberton, on 22d June 1649, immediately after his first return from the Continent. Lord Liberton took part in the Battle of Dunbar on September 3, 1650, and was so severely wounded 172 Craigmillar and its E7wirons. Seat, and cessively oc- the Braids, and that he died eight days afterwards. August 1650 must have been an exciting time for the^^^^M inhabitants of Craicrmillar and its en- MMwIm^m virons. Cromwell is beleaguering the ^^^^^fff city. General Leslie has it strongly /"^^L. defended — his troops and cannon sit- / ./ uated on the Calton Hill, Arthur's m(? Salisbury Crags. Cromwell sue- A,^/ cupies Musselburgh, Niddrie, Jf^" the Pentlands. Skirmishes A"^ / occur every day. Parleys, too, are frequently ///^ held on Bruntsfield Links and the Borough- /// moor, with no satis- factory result. To //^ Cromwell's disgust, cau- tious David Leslie //^ is not to be drawn from his strong posi- ///^ tion. The castle defends the west side /y^ of the city. Eventually Crom- well has to ///^ fall back on Dunbar for supplies. Before he /// has passed Niddrie, General Leslie's cannon /// is hurrying his march by thundering away // from the heights of Craigmillar. After the / / battle, Cromwell, in his brief despatches to the /-/ Speaker of the English Parliament, dated The Environs of Craiginillar. 173 4th September 1650, says : " What officers of theirs of quahty are killed we cannot yet learn, but surely divers are ; and many men of quality are mortally wounded, as Colonel Lumsden, the Lord Liberton, and others." In The Inch House is carefully treasured a sword which is said to have belonged to Oliver Crom- well. An inscription on the blade records the follow- ing : " Belonged to Oliver Cromwell, Lord Protector, Naseby Battle, June 14, 1646 ; Dunbar Battle, September 3, 1650. Praise to the Lord of Hosts." The Inch was acquired by the Gilmours about the same time that they bought Craigmillar, but when they came to reside there does not appear to be recorded. Various additions were made to the house at the beginning of this century, but the present pro- prietor demolished the greater part of these, and recon- structed it in the old baronial style, in 1891-92. Up till very recently there stood at the side of the western avenue of The Inch a group of pictu- resque old thatched cottages, which formed the sub- ject of many an artist's canvas. These cottages were a remnant of the village of Nether Liberton. This 174 Craicrmillar and its Environs. village stood on both sides of the Braid Burn, and, like many other villages, contained a cross, all traces of which have long since disappeared. Formerly the village was of considerable size, as in 1786 it con- ^-:-i<.