Cornell University Library OF THE Hew Work State College of Agriculture ne pe SF L8 The Feather’s practical ii pigeon book, II 0 028 9 mann 3 Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924000028963 Copyright, 1903 by GEO, KE, HOWARD Washington D.C. THE FEATHER’S — PRACTICAL PIGEON Book By J.C. LONG Profusely Hlustrated : Published by GEO. E. HOWARD WASHINGTON, D, C, 3 AG .2%8o Publisher's Note “« Those who are interested in pigeons will appreciate fully this contribution to pigeon literature by the eminent author, J. C. Long, who has for a life-time devoted himself to the study of these dainty and attractive pets. Mr. Long’s experi- ence as a breeder and judge of pigeons admirably fitted him for the task, and the publisher is pleased to recommend this book to everyone who cares for the pleasures of pigeon keep- ing. In this connection he desires to acknowledge the meri- torious work of illustrating by R. Clements. The plates shown in this book are from brush drawings portraying artistic skill and are fine portraitures of the specimens they represent, and can but prove of untold value to every fancier and breeder. The Publisher CONTENTS. Page The Origin of Fancy Pigeons....................0005- 7 Accommodations for Pigeons................e0eece eens 19 Food and Feeding............... 00 cc cc cceec ce caeeenees 43 What Varieties to Breed............ 0... cece eee e eee ee 5I Mating for Breeding..............0. 00. c cece ce ece eee 63 The Pleasure of Pigeon Keeping....................... 93 Diseases of Pigeons.......... 0.0 ccc le ceucecceceeceecens 11g Diseases of the Head, Brain, and Nervous System....... 120 Apoplexy 120 Werle: a2 vx cwaimusinrereccie dieiache abastuonaneauinn be } 122 Paralysis 122 Inflammation of the Eye............. ccc cecee cee eeeee 123 SPOUtS: pe'vaeesccwtteucl vie cisealocheme rads aes memo e tS 123 Megrims .¢s20cvsswa vas creck aateeeea yextee i etaatieaies T24 SPMMMOES ashe tia atpeccasveary ea Rab eens dar » spldgu dlecshine butancoaubtedsctcrls 126 RO UD cocpacetensia Soauns acc teeceheanreebartia SNS Maa Gg ood a a NonenasaeD ieee NES 126 Ceaaeed SBHLISE ‘ascitic tee corutsvn e reeate pear ecard cies tog ee cto aE 128 Pipi xe aatotietie scale einen eeae a love waeeRIASad a ee wen SS 128 Smallpox sss susewiwcusiss Gs eames Si, 5 6s ace asa le SRC 130 Diseases of the Lungs and Throat.....-...........00005 130 PASH TA” cotesiive dre dearpthasroriawasvasese drosapraeomiunrn sie a cnerraroeaneeaveds 130 Consumption or Going Light...................0. 00000 131 Canker csc vsesn cs mogeamar re tases ey ROR Speke ese a eneee 132 Inflammation of the Lungs................. 00. ceeeeees 135 Diseases of the Digestive Organs............... 02-000 135 HoulkCrop: Gaciiisncncancene ated aetaptanineineer Soenenn 137 Diarrhoea: susss ve seemed ey sy ore ee anaes Wee bE eS 137 Choleta: . cccmexeeines dake dang GbE Ed eae EOE RER 132 WSO TANTS. ce sgexsage Go cca i uSetvs ace ccncgssieach nl dass elas cecesnilauteacneandes wee. 138 Liver’ (Camiplaitite: <0: ccscoestsciiea seed eiec eeaeser eines einvalee aed Braves 138 Prolapsus or Fallen Gizzard : 140 Cotistipation, ccs 46 ves ce eeesan eee ye veka ee haeae ehee ES 140 Diseases: OF ‘the: Ska 2c c5.64 piece ssacs bh oe Whee Gates Foe S > 140 Scurf or Mange,...... serie eipsndatathcctets twas e Sepieasdataness angus 140 Moline oxccncauastats eens keer gee oaeey 141 Inflammation of the Oil-Gland.............0..0-. 000005 141 Diseases: of the Limbs... 0c. cveue. ces cesar aeeeweee ses 142 GHIA Ss behsehcey sss essen pce o ksh ve ar epaetiatouer 2G aseVee> dadssansboudnasaisostay see 142 Gramps! <5 sc crenendtgee cain bee woperrarerra tenner Riera deine Soskteavs 143 Diseases of the Egg-Organs. oa Nesiaheveini es eevee x aye Syanbanonaereayaes 143 Fee [BOund) ...daccudhs eueane Suieuiss paeeeuses 143 Barrenness ..........-.46% shell prow eoelonslee nape ash Signa vie 146 Fractures and Wounds............ 0.000 e cece eee eens 146 Broken: Beaks. cs eucusciseure wis walsieee see eee camaro oe TAZ Torn Crops and other Flesh Wounds............-.-+.+6: 147 THSECE. PASSES sacsinsten oi2 soca tusuandihtsee onsdsayaan uh apesevacssene doce feaneonetasticnant . 148 MEIC C sidciige ce ate renceabasl.», piven Sie. doer nGatipiusinalenetohel-ove\avecd sous avvddeandedsys 148 Weather Lice: ns oS retanes 2S SSS SSSses pete SS SS aoe PLAN OF AVIARY FOR LOFTS This arrangement is admirably adapted to those who are not situated so as to have room for the construc- tion of a separate house, and desire to keep a few pig- eons for the pleasure of it. Such an arrangement is easily applied to the lofts of barns, stables, and other outbuildings on the place with excellent results. No extensive alterations are necessary, and the interior of loft may be made to conform with the plans hereafter shown. The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book to delight America’s fanciers, both old and young. Thanks to the energies of these fanciers, the quality of their pigeons has reached a higher standard to-day than has ever been known before, and to help maintain this standard and keep up the interest of young fanciers this work is published. 18 CHAPTER II ACCOMMODATIONS FOR PIGEONS Having, as it were, in the preceding chapter, confirm- ed our belief in the origin of our numerous families of domestic and fancy pigeons, we pass to a subject of ful- ly as much, if not more, importance to the amateur and novice, that of providing proper accommodations for the pretty pets. Pigeons can be bred and raised almost anywhere that shelter can be provided, and they sometimes do with very little shelter; in fact, I have seen them make a home in a common soap-box, nailed to the side of a barn, where they seemed as happy and contented as in more luxurious quarters. The flocks I have in mind were quite numerous and were accommodated with shelter by nailing a variety of small boxes to the gable end of a barn; here they raised their young, and I have seen squealers in the nest, with the snow all about the sides of the boxes, and the mystery was that they had not frozen to death; but they seemed fat and hearty, and there was no question raised as to their hardiness. Such a life must naturally produce a hardy race, but would not likely prove successful with the majority of high- class and Toy Pigeons. But while they may succeed with ‘limited and unpretending quarters, still accommodations that allow of their being well cared for, and in which they can be visited with comfort and pleasure, are with- out doubt the most satisfactory to the breeder and fan- cier. These accommodations can be suited to the space 19 The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book. available by the fancier. It may be a box nailed against the gable end of the house or barn; it may be a limited space in the peak of the same; it may be a larger room in that house or barn, or it may be a commodious build- ing erected for the purpose in the rear of the home lot. Wherever your fancy dictates or your means will allow, there can your pigeons find a home. They are not fas- tidious, no pride governs their choice, and they build, breed, and raise their little families as happily and con- tentedly in a rough box as in the most conveniently and comfortably arranged aviary. So if you can do no better and must have a few pigeons, take a box about 10 inches deep, divide it into as many apartments Io inches square as size of your box will allow, then cut holes in the bottom of the box to correspond with each of the apartments you have made, say 4 inches wide and 5 inches high, nail an alighting-board 4 inches wide and 6 inches long to the floor of each apartment, letting as much as possible of the board project through the holes you have cut, after giving it a secure attachment to the floor of its apartment. When all this is done, you can fasten it to the side of any building, or fence even, if high enough from the ground to be out of the reach of cats and dogs. By placing the open side of the box . to the building, it answers in place of back and saves adding weight to it by nailing on a back. As far as possible place it in a position facing the south, and protected from the cold northerly winds. Also make it water-tight, if you can, by covering with some water-proof material. This will make a, very primitive pigeon-house, but J have known many a boy made happy over a no more elegant house, and the pig- eons are just as happy here as in a palace. The house can be placed high enough to be reached by a short lad- 20 The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book der and thus surely be out of harm’s way. After the house is arranged and your pigeons mated, by confin- ing the pairs in the little apartments for a week or so, they will become wonted and be likely to stay and live contentedly in their new home. A house can be made with quarter pitch roof if one is handy with tools, or a carpenter can be employed to make one that will accommodate six or eight pairs, by making an upper and a lower floor, and dividing. each into three or four apartments with entrances apart from each other, that is on each side of the house, and not directly over each other. This can be erected on a pole, and reached when necessary by a ladder. Finished and painted neatly it can be made very ornamental. If you have an out-building of any kind, where a commodious room can be arranged, looking to the south, you can arrange more elaborate quarters and be able to enjoy your birds in a greater degree, likewise controlling their actions more directly. This room needs plenty of light, and should be provided with one or two large windows even if you have to place them there yourself. Before arranging the nesting-places, get some old roofing-tin, cut it into strips 2 feet wide, nail this all around the sides where the floor and the walls unite, letting it project 6 or 8 inches over the floor, and the balance up the sides of the walls; this will render it proof against rats and mice, the bane of pigeon breeders. Cover every weak spot where you think the vermin can get in, with pieces of tin, then give it a thorough coating of whitewash or white paint, as pig- eons are fond of white, and you are ready to place your nesting-boxes and perches. First arrange a tier of shelves about 15 inches wide and 12 inches apart; divide these into apartments about at FLIGHT PLAN OF HOUSE FOR THE BACK YARD | The plan herewith shown is an excellent one for the fancier who has a backyard and desires a special house for his birds. The dimensions of houses may be varied to suit the size of yard, running from fence to fence. The framework should be substantially built, and board- ed on the otttside with tongued and grooved siding; the inner side should be boarded also with the same kind of material, and, if possible, the space between the walls should be filled with sawdust. The floor should be made of tongued and grooved material securely nailed to the timbers below. The underneath part of the roof should be lined with the same material as the sides, and the outside of roof should be shingled or covered with tin. Where the house joins the fence the cracks should be well covered to prevent rain from leaking through, and every precaution should be taken to keep the interior of house free from dampness. 22 CGuvA MOV AHL YO ASNOH V CRAKAAA Aeon CRANKY 23 The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book 18 to 20 inches long, by upright partitions reaching out flush with the edge of the shelf. This gives an apartment for each pair, gives them the seclusion they prefer, and prevents in a measure quarrelling, a condition of affairs very necessary to successful breeding. These little apartments can be again sub-divided by a half partition, say 11 inches long and 5 inches high; this allows space for two nesting-boxes or pans, whichever is used, and permits of the hen making a second nest before the young are ready to leave the first, and allow- ing the old birds to carry on the incubating process without being annoyed by the youngsters begging to be fed, as they are continually doing when not separated from the parent birds. In front of this middle partition place a strip about 3 inches wide extending from side to side; this will keep the nest-pans in place, and pre- vent the squabs coming to the front of the apartment should they work themselves out of the nest, and falling to the floor, where they are liable to be maltreated and killed by old birds of other pairs. Occasionally you will find birds, both male and female, so kindly tempered as to feed every young squab that comes to them to be fed; but they are few, and it is to guard against the vicious that I advise this precaution. To the front of every nesting-place I would have fitted a movable wire door or screen made of two-inch mesh wire. This will enable you to confine your pairs to the particular nest you select for them until they be- come settled, when it can be removed entirely and laid aside until needed again. The fastening of these doors to the apartment can be made a matter of choice; either hanging them on the side, so as to swing outward, or suspending them from the shelf above, so as to raise upward. Or they can be made in form of two doors, one 24 The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book .o swing to the right and one to the left. This I think the better form, as then you can leave one of the doors closed before the nest in which the hen is sitting, thus partially secluding her. For nests there is nothing better than the circular earthern nest-pan, found at the poultry-supply stores, and made in sizes of 9, 10, and 12 inches diameter, the g-inch being for the smaller class of pigeons, like Tum- blers, Owls, etc., while the 10-inch answers for the medium-sized pigeons, and the 12-inch for Pouters, Runts, and Carriers. But you may be in a locality where such nests can not be found; in such a case tin pans can be used, such as are made from block tin, pressed. These can be nailed to a square wooden foun- dation, thus making them movable and preventing them from being upset. Or you can make square wooden boxes of same width as diameter of the pans.: If boxes are used the corners should be fitted with triangular corner-blocks to keep the nesting-material towards the center. If the tin pans or wooden boxes are used I would advise giving them a good coating of paint. This will act as a preventive against lice, and make them easier to clean. For nest-material there can be nothing better than pine sawdust, as this can be frequently changed and also has a tendency to keep insects away. Cedar sawdust is even better if one lives in a locality where it can be pro- cured. You will also need perches in different parts of the room for the convenience of birds not nesting. These can be made of half-inch material, 4 inches wide. Take two pieces 5 or 6 inches long, nail two ends to- gether, thus forming the two sides of an angle. Hang these on ten-penny nails, driven into the walls in various places’ separate from each other. These make the hest 25 FOOD HOPPER FOOD HOPPER cae [e=3} HOUSE HOUSE FLIGHT PLAN OF DUPLEX HOUSE The Duplex House may be built separately or fitted to a wall and will comfortably house from forty to fifty birds, except in the mating season when the number must be considerably lessened if the wished-for success is to be attained. The arrangement of the duplicate compartments allowing the sexes to be divided, as they should always be except in the breeding séason, and the overhead loft giving freedom for a few pairs of common pigeons to be used as feeders, are decided ad- vantages of this house. THE DUPLEX HOUSE 27 The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book of perches, are easily moved for cleaning, and as they accommodate but one pigeon prevent quarrelling. To every loft such as I have just described there should be an outside area or “‘fly” attached for the pur- pose of giving your birds, when confined, a place to sun and air themselves. This can be located immediately in front of your windows, or to one, side as convenient, but should, like the windows, be on the sunny side of the house. It can be made as large as you deem advisable, and should have perches distributed about, such as are described for use in the loft. Cover it with two-inch mesh wire on sides and top, having the bottom or platform of wood made tight. If you in- tend permitting the birds perfect liberty after a time, to go and come as they please, you will need to construct a falling door, either on one side or the front. ‘This can be hung on hinges and controlled by a rope and pulleys, sc as to be lowered and raised at will. This door need not be over 8 inches wide and 2 feet long, unless you desire it. Two pieces should project from the platform for it to rest on when down, and in this form it will an- swer as an alighting-board for pigeons returning to the loft. There should also be two or three sets of what are known as bolting-wires. At some place in the area cut the wire away and insert a board 2 feet long and 8 inches wide. In this board cut-three holes 4 inches wide and 5 inches high, rounded at the top. Project from these holes an alighting-strip 4 inches wide and 8 inches long, fastening one end to the platform of the area. Take a round stick 1 inch in diameter (an old broom- handle will answer), saw this into pieces 31% inches long. “ Bore a hole 34 of an inch deep in the middle of the stick, and an inch each way bore other holes of 28 The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book same depth; take pieces of common telegraph-wire 5 inches long and insert in these holes solidly as far as their depth will allow. Then bore in each end of the stick other holes an inch deep; in these insert pieces of wire 2 inches long, These answer for axles, as it were, for the bolting-wire to move on. After this is finished put a screw-eye on the left of the opening made in the board near thé top, then insert one end of the axle in this. Place another eye on the opposite side, opening the eye so as to permit the other axle to slip into place. This you will see gives you a little swinging gate that should just about fit the hole cut in the board. By plac- ing another piece of wire across the bottom of the hole just so the ends of the longer wires hit it, you prevent it swinging outward, while it opens easily to the inside. The object of this is to allow any belated pigeons admis- sion to the loft after the falling door is closed, and yet preventing any from leaving until the door is again opened. Pigeons soon learn to know the purpose for which this is intended, and avail themselves of it. When possible, a building erected for the purpose and one story in height I consider the best. This saves climbing stairs and ‘consequently is much more easily taken care of than a second-floor loft. Where built for the purpose it can just as well be made rat, cat, and even man and boy proof, as a more elevated room. By excavating the ground for about a foot in depth, filling this in with cinders or broken stone, and then giving it a coating of asphalt, you have a rat-proof floor, and one that is easily cleaned at all times, besides being free from dampness. Covered a few inches deep with clean, white sand or pine saw-dust, it will keep sweet and clean for a long time, especially if occasion- ally raked with a fine-tooth rake, and all refuse that 29 PERCHES PERCHES HOUSE _ FLIGHT PLAN OF SIMPLE CONTINUOUS HOUSE The design shown is a very simple, and at the same time a very good one to follow. The illustration shows two houses, but for those who desire more than two, it is only necessary to continue the plan as shown until the required number are built. The general details of construction as given for other houses will apply equally as well to this, excepting that where a large number are to be built in a row, it would be necessary to have doors between each partition, or a passage-way at rear running entire length of building. Brick foundation should be used when building a large number of houses. 30 A SIMPLE CONTINUOUS HOUSE 31 The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book may gather be carefully removed. It should be made of good seasoned stuff, well battened on the outside and provided with plenty of windows facing the south and made to swing outwards. These can then be protected on the inside by wire netting, which will neither exclude * light nor air. The roof should be tight and can be either a pitch or shed-roof as fancy dictates. Attached to the building, as location permits, should be a large area or flight, enclosed on top and sides with wire netting, the first 3 feet from the ground being of 1-inch, the balance of 2-inch mesh; the 1-inch mesh pre- venting rats, weasels, and other vermin from gaining access from this source. Near the top can be arranged a door to fall downwards on to brackets, and thus allow- ing the pigeons, if desired, more liberty, and answering at the same time as an alighting-board or shelf when they return from a flight. This can be arranged with pulleys or reached by a ladder as the owner sees fit. The interior can be fitted with shelves for nests, and these nests made stationary or movable as inclination suggests, but I regard movable nests as the best, for then they can be easily cleaned, and when thought necessary to give the room a thorough white-washing, all can be taken out and there be but little obstruction , to the work. The little inverted V-shaped perches common in well- appointed pigeon-lofts, and previously mentioned, should be plenty, and placed on the sides of the building away from the nests, and these also should be movable so they can be frequently taken down and cleaned. By placing them one under the other, it prevents the bird above from soiling the plumage of the one under it, and as but one bird can occupy each, it also prevents quar- relling. 32 The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book The size of the building can be: suited to the wants of the fancier, and be governed by the space he can de- vote to it, and also to the number he intends to accom- modate. I would say in addition, do not, if you want to enjoy your birds, get it too small. A building of this kind could be put to other uses if the time came, as it eventually does to most Americans, when other matters require their attention and the hobby has to be relin- quished. From these descriptions the reader can deduce his own conclusions, and arrange such accommodations as his necessity and means demand and will admit of. He must also be governed by the number and variety he desires or intends to keep, and fashion his house accord- ingly. As a guide as to dimensions, I will say that a room 15x12 by 8 feet high will easily accommodate fifty pairs of birds. I would also add that all rooms should be provided with an extra wire partition so that young birds just out of the nest can be kept apart from the breeding pairs, and, also, so that when the breeding sea- son is over the cocks may be separated from the hens, as for the good of the hens it is better to keep the sexes. apart during the molting season and extreme cold weather. Otherwise’ the hens will be wasting their vitality by laying, hatching, and feeding at a time when they need to be recuperating for the spring and sum- mer’s work. These remarks apply.to such as have high-class birds and the conveniences to control them, and not to the owner of common birds, who uses the primitive house I have described, and allows his pigeons to live in a com- parative state of nature, and under no control. In cases where they are allowed to “shift” for themselves, nature must be allowed to take its course, let the results be 3 33 The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book what they may; and, strange to say, results are often more satisfactory, as far as increase in numbers is con- cerned, than when they receive the best of care. Having provided the loft or house, as it may be, seen that it is well painted or whitewashed, and guarded against the admission of rats, mice, and cats, we turn our attention to the necessary furniture for the conveni- ence of the pigeons. This need not be abundant, nor elaborate in its character, but should be movable, and constructed so as to admit of economy and cleanliness in its use. First will be needed a hopper, or hoppers, for I believe it economy where you have several kinds of feed to have a hopper for each kind, as each pigeon has a different taste, some preferring corn to wheat or peas, and, again, others preferring peas to either wheat or corn. If the three are mixed together in one hopper, the , bird that likes peas will throw out with his bill, as far as possible, the other kinds of grain to get at his favorite morsel, and naturally much of the food thrown on the floor will be trodden under foot and wasted. If a hopper is provided. for each kind of grain, the pigeon will find what it wants without trouble and will waste but little. These hoppers can be cheaply constructed, and of any pattern that may suggest itself. They can be made self- feeding, or consist of a simple open trough, and only such. a portion of food placed in them each day as will be likely to be used on that day. Self-feeding ones are the most desirable for those who can not be regular in their visits to their pets, as it keeps a supply of food constantly ready for their use, a feature very desirable when old birds are feeding their young. But when one has time for frequent daily visits to his lofts ‘or aviaries and can watch the food supply closely, I believe the open 34 A, Water-fountain, B, Metal Food-hopper or Water- fountain. C. Wooden Food-hopper. u ur The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book trough the best, and frequent feedings better than a con- stant supply. The feeding-trough, whether of the self- feeding or open pattern, should be protected by bars either of wood or wire, about 2 inches apart; this allows the pigeon to reach the food with his bill, but pre- vents his walking over it, also prevents a selfish cock from monopolizing the whole trough, as they sometimes will, and tends to prevent the wasting we have men- tioned by throwing the food out with the bill. A hopper for each kind of food placed in various parts of the loft insures a supply for all and of the kin« most to their taste. In the matter of drinking-vessels one can not be too particular, as clean, fresh water is really a necessity to insure perfect health, as there is unquestionably morc disease and deaths caused by impure water than from any other source. Pigeons seem to have a penchant for fouling their water with their excrement, and conse- quently a closed vessel is the best for drinking purposes. Lut this water should be renewed every day, no matter whether all is consumed or not. The practice of filling a. fountain and leaving it to stand until all the water is ex- hausted, is a bad one. The fountain should be filled every day and frequently scalded to keep it sweet. A good drinking-vessel can be made by taking an ordinary red earthen flower-pot. Stop the hole in the bottom tightly with a cork. Fill the flower-pot full to the brim with water, then-take a saucer, such as is. usually sold with such pots, of a size large enough to fit over the top of the pot, leaving a space of about an inch all around the edge of the pot and outside edge of the saucer. In the bottom of the saucer put three or four strips of wood or iron a quarter of an inch thick and place the saucer, bottom up, on top of the pot. Then quickly invert pot 36 The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book and saucer, setting the saucer in its usual position on the floor. The quarter-inch sticks will allow the water to flow out enough to about fill the space between saucer and pot, and you have a vessel easily filled and cleaned, and one in which the water will keep cool at all times. For locations where water freezes in winter, this same fountain will answer, but needs to be filled several times each day, and watched that it does not freeze, and should always be emptied at night. In fact, 1 would advise emptying all. fountains at night, and refilling them in the morning, not allowing water to stand in any vessel over night. There are many different kinds of drinking-vessels, but none better in all ways than the one above described. By using pieces of iron for the pot to rest on in the saucer it gives a little chalybeate quality to the water, that is said to be good as a tonic for the birds. , Another article needed as part of the furniture of the loft is a bathing-pan. This can be about 4 inches deep and of any size you choose; it may be an earthen pan accommodating three or four birds, it may be a sheet- iron one accommodating twenty-five or thirty, or it may be made of one end of a barrel, accommodating ten or twelve. But let its dimensions be what they may, it is to be counted among the necessary articles of the loft. In the summer a bath can be given every day, but in winter twice a week will do unless the weather is very severe. Sunny days should always be selected, and after the bath the birds be allowed to dry themselves in the sun. As soon as the bath is finished, the pans should be removed, to prevent the birds drinking the water, which they are likely to do if the pans are not emptied. It is astonishing how much dirt is removed by a bath. * Put your water in the pans as clear as crystal, and when the 37 The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book sport is over (for the birds enjoy it and make sport of it) the water that is left will be of a milky whiteness and the surface covered with the dust from their bodies. This shows conclusively the necessity for a frequent bath. Birds allowed the free use of clean water are always exceptionally free from lice, and their plumage is bright and glossy. Another piece of furniture necessary is a landing-net. This is made of rattan or any light material, looped at one end, and from which is suspended a hag of cloth or netting, about 18 inches in length, the upper or open end of the bag being attached to the loop in the handle. Wishing to catch any particular member of the loft, you take the handle of.the net in the hand, and by a dex- terous movement cast the net over the bird and it is a prisoner. This manner of catching a bird avoids the necessity of chasing it about and alarming the whole flock, startling the sitting birds, and making all wild and suspicious. A little practice will render one so skil- ful in its use as rarely to miss the bird aimed at. Another necessary article is a scraper, for removing the droppings from the perches, the nesting-places, and the floor. For the shelves and elevated places an ordinary triangular ship-scraper is often used, or a portion of the blade of an old hand-saw, about € inches long and 4 or 5 wide, fitted with a wooden rim to protect the hand, is as good a scraper as one can use. For the floor have a piece of the saw fitted on the end of a handle 5 feet long. With this you can work easily and very effec- tively. If one has the time, a little attention every day will keep a loft in excellent order, and by working quietly the birds on the nests are not disturbed, and all soon learn that they are not going to be injured and pay but little attention to the worker. 38 PLANS OF NESTS The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book The scrapings should all be saved, as they make ex- cellent manure when properly composted, or they can be sold to morocco dressers, who prize them highly for use in tanning their hides. Every loft, however small, needs a mating-cage if care is to bé used in breeding. For this purpose a box 2 feet long and 12 inches deep and as many inches high will answer for all varieties except f'outers. These will need a larger cage or box. Divide the box in the middle by a wire partition; also slat or wire the front. This gives two apartments. Wishing to pair up any particular cock and hen, place them in the separate apartments, and, if congenial, they will soon make love to each other through the wire partition. They would, perhaps, mate if placed in a single cage, but sometimes the match is not an agreeable one to the hen, and in spite of all the enticing actions of the cock ,the hen will not accept his attentions. Then comes a series of quarrels, which frequently ends in the hen being mastered and then terribly abused by the cock, he fre- quently pecking her about the head till the skull is laid bare and the flesh a mass of bloody pulp. By placing them in separate apartments this is -all avoided, and after a time, if there is no agreement en- tered into ‘between them, one or the other can be re- moved and a bird put in its place that may prove more congenial. I have frequently seen birds placed in the cage mate in an hour’s time, and again have seen day after day pass and the hen show no indication of mating, and yet in the end, when the right spirit per- vaded her, accept the attentions of the cock and prove a faithful companion. Should the fancier’s flock be a large one, he would naturally need several mating-cages. These should be located outside or away from the breeding-room, so that 40 ANS BLUE POUTER COCK Being the easiest to breed, possessing all the good qualities of the other Pouters together with its own fine point, its beautiful blue plumage, the Blue Pouter easily takes the lead in this class of pigeons. 41 The Feather's Practical Pigeon Book the mating pairs may be quiet and undisturbed by the other pigeons. Provisions should be made for good ventilation in the loft, especially in hot weather, anc while draughts are to be strenuously avoided, the air needs to be kept as fresh and pure as possible. Cleanli- ness will aid in this, but small openings near the top of the room that can be opened and closed as circumstances require are what is needed. Having suggested all the necessary fixtures for -the comfort of the pigeons that are usually found in a loft, I give my attention to the proper food to provide for them while in confinement, a condition in which the greater part of the lives of fancy pigeons must be spent. CHAPTER III Foop AND FEEDING Pigeons that have their liberty are privileged to seek and select such food as they prefer. Frequently they find nothing to their liking’ near home, and fly miles away to feeding-places that furnish what suits their taste. In the country they visit the newly-sown grain- fields, and frequently become a pest to the farmer, or in the fall find generous living among the ripened grain. Those living near towns and cities find abundant pick- ings in the streets and thrive and grow fat upon the offal of horses scattered about. But pigeons in confine- ment have no choice and must take what is provided for their use or starve. Consequently it is the duty of their keeper to provide food that shall be palatable and acceptable to them. As all pigeons have not the same tastes and what is meat for one in a sense is poison to another, it is, therefore, necessary to furnish a variety, sc that all shall find what is to their liking and so be satisfied and correspondingly contented. Among the varieties of grain produced in America 1 find that pigeons take kindly to Indian corn, wheat, buckwheat, Canada peas, Hungarian grass-seed, millet, and sometimes barley, but this only when it had been before them a long time and they found that it was edible, but they would leave it any time for good wheat or corn. Tares, dari, and a small black bean, have fre- quently been imported and used for pigeon food, but as they come high, their use is not general, nor do I believe them necessary considering that we have so many other 43 The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book foods that are desirable and answer all the purposes re- quired of them. Rye my pigeons never seemed to take to, and while I have seen frequently in the fall of the year flocks of pigeons on the harvested rye-fields, I never found fancy pigeons partial to it when they could get anything else. I have had the same experience with poultry ; they never took kindly to rye. Whatever grain is fed should be thoroughly cured and dry, as much loss and disease hive been engendered hy feeding pigeons new grain, strange to say, as pigeons flying at large seem to eat newly-ripened grain with impunity. I have seen fancy pigeons that were confined waste away and grow thin with an abundance of food before them, of which they seemed to partake freely, and on examining into the cause could come to no other conclusion than that it was from. eating new grain. While using it the floor of the loft would be as wet as though sprinkled with water, and it was evident that the food was producing a loosened condition of the bowels that was weakening and killing the birds. A return to good, sound, old grain worked a change at once, and ever after I shunned new grain. Pigeons are very fond of corn, and many are in the habit of feeding it whole to their birds. This is a danger- ous practice, especially to small birds, as the large ker- nels are liable to lodge in their throats and choke them. The best way to feed this grain is to feed it cracked, unless you can get the small Yankee corn a little larger than a pea. In some sections of the country it is quite abundant and when it can be had is preferable to ali larger corn. Although I have found, in my experience, that pigeons seem to prefer good, sound, yellow gourd, seed corn, they soon learn to know and like the smaller variety above mentioned. 44 The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book The food of pigeons needs to be varied according to the season and location. In northern localities where the nights are long and the cold sometimes intense dur- ing the winter months, the food needs to be of a kind slow of digestion and affording considerable warmth. For this purpose, good sound peas, either gray or yel- low, and the little Yankee corn make the best of food. During the spring and summer months when the weath- er is mild and the birds are breeding, sound wheat, buck- wheat, small Canada peas, and millet are the -proper foods. Tares, if they can be afforded, also the dari I have mentioned, if that can be had. This last is an East Indian variety of grain, resembling very much the pearl barley sold in stores for soups. The English fanciers regard it highly, but owing to its cost it can never be expected to become a favorite with our fanciers. T have said that what is meat for some varieties is poi- son for others; for this reason attention must be paid to the action of the different kinds of grain on the various members of a flock. If any particular grain seems to scour them it should be taken from them entirely, or only fed in small quantities; likewise if any grain seems to be constipating, that, also, should be reduced in quan- tity. In changing from one grain to another the change should be gradual until they become accustomed to its use. While an idea prevails that pigeons will eat grain only, this is a mistake, for they are fond of both plant and animal food. I have found peas and lettuce both acceptable and always supplied their wants by planting seed of these varieties in shallow boxes and when up about an inch placing them in the lofts. While there is no question but that pigeons flying at large pick up animal food in the shape of small snails, it never seemed to be a necessity, and I never by experi- 45 The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book ment proved that they would eat it when confined. Salt fish, we all know, they are fond of, and many fanciers keep a piece fastened to the wall within reach of their birds, but while they may also like the meat, it is no doubt the salt in the fish they are after. . Bread is an excellent, economical, and favorite food with. pigeons. It can be fed in various ways. It can be dried hard and pounded to pieces, it can be toasted and broken in bits, or it can be soaked and mixed with bran. In this form I have found pigeons very eager for it; in fact, forsake their grain for it, and not leave the dish till it was all consumed. This preparation, with the addition of a little bone-flour, is excellent for birds that are feeding ’ their young, and all seem to thrive on it. I used to pur- chase bread by the barrel of the bakers, and use it as above for both poultry and pigeons. ; Salt is something pigeons are very fond of, and every loft should have either lumps of rock salt standing about, or a piece of salt cat. This is a preparation originated many years ago by old English fanciers, and, properly prepared, is said to be a great promoter of health and fine condition in the flock. There are many different ways of preparing it, but the following for- mula is about the best I have ever used: One peck dry loam; one handful each of flour, ground cloves, fennel seed, dill seed, cummin seed, fennigreek, and powdered assafetida; three double handfuls common salt and one double handful bay salt. Mix this well together dry, and then add water, and make about as stiff as putty, divide in cakes, allowing it to dry and harden in the sun. One or two of these lumps placed in the loft will be welcomed and freely partaken of as soon as it is found what it is. Sometimes if very hard, I have found it necessary to wet it a little to induce the birds to take it 46 BLACK-PIED POUTER COCK One of the most graceful and gentle of all pigeons is the Pouter, so much so that it has been called the “Queen of Pigeons.” It is a large but never coarse bird, with long and slender body, standing perpendicu- larly, with wings held close to the body; flights, extend- ing in line to above the tail; the legs rather straight, closely feathered, long, and placed well back in the body. The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book While grain and bread should form the staple food, there are many varieties of seeds that pigeons are fond of and enjoy occasionally, such as hemp, canary, rape, turnip, and coriander. These are more or less stimu- lating and heating, and should not be used for a gen- eral diet, but can be thrown to the birds after their re- turn to the loft from a fly, or when giving them an occasional visit through the day. By the use of such luxuries birds can be made very tame. In addition to the various foods I have mentioned, I would recom- mend that a box of broken oyster-shells and old lime mortar be always kept in the loft. Pigeons seem to be very fond of lime mortar; not such as is used for walls. or rooms, as this contains hair, but such as comes from brick or stone foundation walls. Pigeons confined in rooms of brick buildings where they can get at the mor- tar between the bricks, will, if not furnished with a sup- ply, peck it out from between the layers of bricks. This is evidence that they are fond of it, and while, perhaps, not an absolute necessity, liking it, they should be supplied with it. Broken bone and even broken charcoal will, at times, seem to be relished. While oyster-shells and old mortar may answer the purpose, I have always made it a point to have in addition a box of small-sized gravel. As pig- eons, like members of the gallinaceous family, are sup- plied with a gizzard where the food is prepared for perfect digestion, it is necessary for this organ to be furnished with something hard that will assist in grind- ing the food, and nothing seems to answer this purpose better than sharp grit or gravel, consequently it becomes a necessity that something of this kind should be sup- plied. The prepared grit now offered for sale by var- ious dealers is clean, hard, and sharp, and fills the place: 48 The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book . of natural gravel to perfection. With the varied “menu” presented herewith, the novice can form something of an idea of what his pigeons will enjoy,and while it is not at all necessary that he should supply to them the whole list, he can make from this his selection, and feed what seems to be most to their taste, and what agrees with them best. Be cautious about over-feeding. Keep them in just such a condition that they will enjoy their meals when furnished them and then with, if possible, a little outdoor exercise, they should be healthy, active, and contented. Birds kept continually confined need a little more careful watching than those that can have daily exercise, to see that they do not suffer from close confinement. If the loft is roomy they can get considerable exercise right in the loft, but if quarters are contracted, the chances for disease and vermin are greater than if at liberty. Above all things, let the quarters be what they may, do not overcrowd. Where possible, I would ad- vise the use of a-raised platform for feeding; here the various grains can be placed, and be eaten from the feeding-dishes or hoppers, or scattered about. If grain is fed directly from the hand, this platform can be swept clean before feeding and it will be found a much nicer way than to feed on the floor. One must be governed in feeding by the time at one’s ‘disposal. If only able to visit the birds twice a day, food must be supplied to last from one feeding-time to the other, but if able to visit the loft several times each day, then the feeding each time can be in limited quantities and the chance to vary the food much better. If one is situated so as to have a roomy area built on the ground, a plat- form can be erected there and on dry days the birds fed there. The gravel, water, and other supplies can all be 4 49 The Feather’s Practical Pigeon Book placed here and sheltered from wet, and in this way. the loft left for breeding and shelter alone. In this connec- tion I might call the attention to the water supply, which should always be pure and fresh. The addition occasionally of a small piece of quicklime, also, at times a little of the Douglas mixture so highly recom- mended for poultry, is very beneficial. The Douglas mixture is made after the following recipe: One-half ounce sulphuric acid, five-eighths pound green vitriol or copperas dissolved in two quarts of hot, soft water ; when cold add two quarts cold water, making a gallon.