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http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924000124580

THE

PRACTICAL

PIGEON KEEPER

BY

LEWIS WRIGHT

AUTHOR OF “‘THE ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF POULTRY,” “‘THE PRACTICAL POULTRY
- KEEPER,” &c.

ILLUSTRATED

CASSELL ann COMPANY, Lrmrtep

LONDON, PARIS, NEW YORK & MELBOURNE
1901

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

First Edition July’ 1879
Reprinted 1882, 1886, 1888, 1889, 1891, 1892, 1895, 1898, tgoT.

CONTENTS.

—-—.

Chapter I.—Tuz Piczon Lorr: Importance of Proper Space— ae
Plan for a Moderate Loft—Loft in the Roof of a House—
Internal Fittings of Loft—Various Breeding Arrangements
—Perches . . : z s i ‘ . . 1-14

Chapter II.—¥Foop anp Ferpine: Why Food differs in Winter
and Summer—Proper Diet for Pigeons—Quantity a Pigeon
Eats—Hoppers—Green Food—Fountains—Salt Cat . . 14—23

Chapter II].—Brerpine anpD GENERAL ManacEment: The Sexes
in Pigeons—Matching—Settling in the Loft—Nest-pans—
Insect Vermin—Sitting—Hatching—Holding a Pigeon—The
Squeakers—Shifting—Nurses or Feeders—Artificial Feeding
—Moulting ~ . ww wee DE

Chapter IV.—Pepierre Breepine: What isa Strain?—Tendency
to transmit Features to Posterity—Accumulation of such
Tendencies—Effects of Selection—Comparison with the
Hap-hazard Process—Necessity of keeping up a Connective
Chain—In-breeding and Crossing—Practical Mode of Pro-
cedure—This Method followed by all Practical Fanciers . 45—67

Chapter V.—Exursirinae Piczons: Necessity of Exhibition in
some Form—Columbarian Society Shows—Boxes and Baskets
—Washing—Various Means of improving the Appearance of
Pigeons . - . . . - . . - - 58—65

Chapter VI.—Carrizers ., . oe ee we 6685
» VII.—Dracoons . iw os oo - . 85—97

iv CONTENTS,

PAGES
Chapter VIITT.—Barss . 2. . «© «© © «© «© 97—108
9 TX.—Suorr-racep Tumpters: Almonds and their

Origin—Kites, Agates, and Splashes—Mottles—Baldheads

and Beards : : é . ki , F ‘i . 108—127
Chapter X.—Common anp Perrormine Tumsiers: Origin
of Tumbling — Oriental Rollers — Training of Flying

Tumblers . : 3 . : ‘ 3 3 A . 127—140

Chipter XI.—Povrers: Pigmy Pouters . . ’ « 140—154

5 XIL—Fanrars . : . a “ : - 154—168

7 XIII.—Jaconrns é é ‘ 7 ; - 158—163

z XIV.—Frirtzep Piczons: Owls — Turbits — Tur-
biteens—Satinettes—Blondinettes—Vizors . F - 164—180
Chapter XV.—Exurerrion ANTWERPS . . - «+ 180--187
o XVI.—Troumreters —ARCHANGELS — Nuns — Mage-
Pirs—Runts. é ‘6 . s . F s . 187—195
Chapter XVII.—Eastern Toy Piczons: Capuchins—Dama-
scenes—Swifts—Scandaroons—Indian Pigeons . ‘
Chapter XVIII.—Miscetnanzous Toys: Frill-backs—Floren-
tines—Swallows—Priests—Brunswicks—Letz Pigeons—

195—203

Fairies, or Fairy Swallows—Shields—Crescents—Starlings

—Fire Pigeons, or Fire-backs—Ice Pigeons—Hyacinths—
Victorias—Porcelains—Suabians—Helmets—Spots . + 203—209
Chapter XIX.—Homine Piczons: Modenese Flying Pigeons 209—221
* XX.—Diszases oF Pigeons . ° ° « 222—232

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

eeigaes
PAGE

Pian oF Lort, ‘ S . is y = ° * i . 4
Lort on A Hovsz . ‘ : . . ‘ e . é . 6
Internat Firrincs oF Lort . . & ‘ P 8
Scotcu Pran or Broap SHELF FoR Wean pai : s a - 10
Mr. Furron’s Nrst-Box . ‘ 5 ‘ * « Th
Trianetz Perch’. . wee el CdD
Mr. Caripia’s Improvep Prrcuss = : 7 . . 18
Ferpinc Horrrrs ror Pigzons . % F @ 5 : 18, 19
Water Fountains . é @ F : ‘ i é o » 21
NEstT-PANs 3 3 2 : . - ‘ ° ‘ - 380
ScraPer . . <i z a . 4 ¥ o é - 383i
MANNER OF our A PicEoN . ‘ . . z 7 . 386
Boxzs ror Senpinea Pigeons ro SHows : 7 is : 60, 61
BasKETS FOR 4, - Se . ‘ 2 - 68
Buus Carrier F . . ‘: ' < ‘ a - 67
Heap oF CaRRIER . a : F ‘ 2 n % : . 72
Bivz Dragoon Cock . : ae : s s : . 87
BirmincuamM Dragoon Hen, 1870 . . F 3 - 90
. rf » Heap or, 1874. 3 3 : « 91

3 a » Mopern Tyre. . » 98
Barps . " . 5 ‘ i 3 3 ‘ i . 98
Heap or Bars : : - 100
~ SHORT-FACED Towns —haaeann, ora, rcvhseadi, Hexen - 109
Heap-Moviper ror Suort-FaceD TUMBLERS . . i . 119
Friyrne TUMBLERS . ‘ : si i a . ‘ : - 132
ORIENTAL ROLLERS . , : “ 3 is " 7 . 185
Buack-rieD PovTeR é ‘ , : ‘i é . + 148
Piamy Pourzr anD IsaBEL . . . . . z 3 . 153
Scorcu Fanrain . . < FS rd - . E - 155
BivE AND WHITE Taconite ‘ * A ‘i . + - 159
Ow1s AnD TuRBITS 3 : ‘ sj . . ‘ . 167
TURBITEENS « * . . ‘ * . ° : 7 - 171

‘SATINETTE Fi . . . e . . : « 195

vi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

BLONDINETTES . a
Buurz Vizor . i A

Sriver-pun SHow ANTWERP .

Heap or Sitver-pun ANTWERP

.

Diacrams oF STANDARD ANTWERP Heap

” ”

Types or ANTWERP EYE-wATTLEs
AnTWeERP Heap, Fautty Typr
MepiumM-FacED TYPE

3 ”»
TRUMPETER . a
Nuns ‘ 4
Lzeuorn Runt
Common Runt
Damascenze . fe
Swit. . ‘

”

(Youne

ScaNDAROONS . P ‘

Lanorze . F é r . ‘ A
Inpian Piczons—Mooxer, SHERAJEE, GOOLEE
FRILL-BACKS . i *

FLorenTINE on BurMEsE

SwaLiows

Homine Picron .
AREA FoR Homine Piceons
Bottine Wires.

Cat-proor EnTRaNce For AREA

Puan or Lorr ror Homine Pigeons

Mopenesz Fiyine Pieron

PREFACE.

‘Tuts work has been chiefly written because such a book was
repeatedly asked for. No apology is therefore needed for ita
publication.

In preparing it the writer has endeavoured to preserve the
‘same plain and practical character which obtained for the
“ Practical Poultry Keeper” such a wide popularity. Theo-
retical discussions have been eschewed except in a very’ few
cases, where a few words seemed likely to throw practical light
on questions of deep interest to pigeon fanciers, such as the
origin of Tumblers and of Tumbling, and the true ideal
standard for Owls and Jacobins. The object has been to get
the greatest amount of practical information on practical points
intoasmall space. How far that object has been attained must

be left to the judgment of the reader.

THE

PRacTICAL PIGgkon KEEPER.

CHAPTER I.
THE PIGEON-LOFT,

Ir may appear strange, but is nevertheless tiue, that the
pigeon is a much more domestic bird than the fowl. Tn other
words, although a bird of flight, it spends much more time in
the spot which it regards as its home; and success in pigeon-
keeping will therefore depend very much on that home being
properly proportioned to the number kept, and fitted up ina
judicious manner.

‘As with nearly all pets kept in this climate, it is better, if
possible, that the loft should have a somewhat southerly aspect;
but if that cannot well be managed there is no need to be
anxious over it, provided it is a good open situation. Proper
space is of far more importance. Old Moore himself, the first
writer on pigeons, is very strong upon this point, and relates
that he knew a gentleman who could not raise three young
ones all the spring from nine pairs of breeding birds ; whereas,
even in the autumn, when moved into. a larger place they bred
freely. Every experienced fancier can corroborate this ; and it
is of such importance that, if only a very small space can be
secured, we would strongly advise that only one good pair of
birds be kept. From that one pair, well looked after, more

Q

2 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER,

young will be reared than if any attempt be made to crow’ the
birds.

Few people, however, are reduced to this ; and for a modest
but efficient loft we can strongly recommend a wooden building,
twelve feet by six feet, divided by a partition into two houses,
cach six feet square. If a handy place offers, this can, of course,
be reared against the wall of a house or garden, and the floor
boarded or asphalted; concrete does not answer, from the pro-
pensity of pigeons to pick it to pieces. But it will do just as
well, and is often more convenient, to make the wooden build-
ing detached in the garden. In such case it may be framed
with “ quartering,” and the floor should be tongued with hoop-
iron, raised about a foot from the ground, and well-smoothed,
which will make the house dry in any situation. For the walls
good match-boarding, about an inch thick, answers admirably ;
and only where the breeds to be kept are very delicate—as, for
instance, foreign Owls—or the climate is very severe, may it be
advisable to nail an inner skin of thinner match-board to the
inside of the frame. Such an inner skin, however, with the
layer of air between, makes a very warm loft, and adds much
to neatness, and where a little expense is no object, is worth its
cost. For the roof we prefer ordinary rafters, covered with
loose tiles, and lined inside with match-board. At the highest
part of each house, just under the roof, should be adequate
holes for ventilation, which can be covered with ‘perforated
zine.

For pigeons allowed to fly at liberty no further space or
accommodation beyond what is contained in the loft will be
required ; it will only be necessary to provide a safe means of
entry and exit, which will protect them from thieves and cats,
and which will be described in the chapter on “Homing
Pigeons.” In the country, where the neighbours are honest, it
will answer best to let nearly all varieties fly in this manner,
and birds so happily circumstanced will maintain themselves in

THE PIGEON LOFT. 3

admirable condition. But nine-tenths of fancy pigeons are
kept in towns, or too near questionable characters to be thus
risked ; and for all such must be provided an exercising place or
aviary, or “ flight,” as it is usually called, entirely enclosed with
wire netting. This should be in front of the enclosed loft, of
good height, and as long as can be afforded. For the loft we
are describing, six feet of flight in front may be made “ to do,”
but is very cramped; twelve feet is far better, and will keep
the birds in perfect health: such a loft thus occupying in all a
ground space of twelve by eighteen feet, arranged as in Fig. 1.

In this figure, a 4 are the lofts, B B the flights, or aviaries,
‘ belonging to them. Unless the loft is reared against a wall,
we should prefer the highest part of the roof to be in front,
which allows a small window over each door, and a good height
—say eight feet—for the wire enclosure. At the far end of
this, at the height of five to six feet from the ground, a shelf
(/), about five inches wide, should be fixed, but taking care to
place it a few inches clear of the netting, in order that in turn-
ing round the pigeons may not damage their tails ; on the doors
and front of the loft, also a few inches. clear, should be fixed
other shorter shelves (e), arranged in a manner that allows one
to pass over the other when the doors are opened. The pigeons
will, in a flight arranged like this, take much exercise and
pleasure in flying from one shelf to the other ; and if the aviary
be much over twelve feet in length, it is a good plan to provide
another shelf across the middle, about eighteen inches below the
wire at the top. The floor of the aviary, on the whole, is best
laid with concrete, or hot lime and sand, as what the pigeons
eat of this will do them good, and their dilapidations can easily
be plastered over every two or three years.

The entrance holes should be cut in the door, that there
may be only one locality for draught ; and there should always
be two in each door, some birds being very dictatorial over these
places. A good size is four and a half inches wide, by about

4 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

FS a Oo le lis

I

Ky
ial

SSS ee ee eet ose cee

Wa

Fig. 1.—PLAN OF LOFT.

AA, Lofts or pigeon-houses, doors bevelled towards the hinged

B B, Open flight or aviary.

c :, Nesting places, with pans.

add, Perches for roosting.

ee, Shelves, attached by iron brackets
to doors and front of lofts. Those on

side, and set one inch higher than
the others, to allow door to swing.
Sf, Shelf at further end of aviary,
gg, Holes with traps, and small landing
each side of the door.

THE PIGRON LOFT. 5

seven inches high, and there must be a small alighting. stage or
shelf, level with the bottom, projecting, say, three inches from
each side of the door. We prefer the holes about a foot clear
from the floor of the loft, and each should be furnished with a
trap-door, for many obvious reasons. At c and d-are the nest-
ing places and perches to be hereafter described.

It will readily be seen that a loft and aviary thus con-
structed] are perfectly secure against cats, and when built with
a raised floor are practically so against rats. It is often well
worth while to enclose the aviary with netting small enough in
mesh to be also proof against small birds. Otherwise, it is really
astonishing what a quantity of food these petty marauders will
eat in the course of a year. Omitting this precaution, we once
found no less than seventeen sparrows in a loft six feet square.
Such a number of visitors must needs make a serious difference
in the corn-merchant’s bill ; and in our opinion Master Sparrow
is in this way not altogether blameless for the generally assumed
voracious appetite of the pigeon.

More extensive lofts can, of course, be erected on the same
general plan as that above described ; but we would strongly
‘recommend in all cases, unless unusually ample space be at
command, thst the nwmter of separate rooms be added to rather
than their siz. Every additional means of dividing the pigeons
will, as the breeding season comes to a close, be found of in-
estimable benefit, and will greatly promote the amateur’s con-
venience, comfort, and success. So true is this, that we are
acquainted with one most successful breeder who divided his
lofts and aviaries into sections only three feet wide, in each of
which he put two pairs of birds; and he told us he had never
had such success in rearing young ones as since he adopted this
plan.

It will very often happen, however, that some existing
accommodation has to be made available, and the very word
“loft” points to what has most often been pressed into the

6 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

service from all time. Where the top rooms of a house are
ceiled over, there is generally a good space left between the top
ceiling and the actual roof; and when this is accessible it can
readily be made a home for the pigeons. First of all, a good
tight floor—tight and close, however thin—must be laid over
the rafters. This, and a window, and ready access, are the

ES ee
MY ph qi

aA

Fig. 2—Lort on a House.
A, Loft inside roof. | cc, Shelves,

BB, Aviary, or flight, enclosed with netting. d, Bath.
great points ; with them and decently good management vermin
need not be feared: but where the loft is left dark, rough, and
unfloored, to collect filth unseen for weeks together, it need not
be wondered at should there be annoyance. A smooth floor
that can be well scraped, and light to scrape it by, easily pre-
vents all this, and disinfectants will do the rest. Such literal
“lofts” have been most usually used for flying pigeons, which,
of course, only further need a proper entrance, such as will be
hereafter described ; and where fancy pigeons are kept in them,

THE PIGEON LOFT. 7

it has been usually in close confinement, the birds never being
allowed outside. Pigeons can be kept even like this ; but they
are always liable to disease, and can never enjoy existence as all
pet creatures should do. And itis quite easy to make even the
top of a house all that can be desired in any way. We give a
sketch which will show at a glance what we mean, and the idea
of which is taken from the well-known loft of Mr. Wallace, of
Glasgow. The plan (see Fig. 2) consists simply of carrying
wire-work square up to the level of the apex of the roof and to
the extent of the walls, and needs no further explanation. A
few shelves, such as already described, will make a roof so
furnished a happy abode for any pigeons; and as in the former
case is perfectly secure, or is easily made so, from any form of
depredation.

So much for the outside of the loft; we must next turn to
the inside. The great thing to be here studied is proper
breeding accommodation; and here again it is singular, and
speaks volumes for his thorough practical knowledge of the
subject, that the very first writer on pigeons—old Moore before
mentioned—describes the arrangement which is still by general
experience pronounced best. ‘To make your breeding places,”
says he, “ you may erect shelves about fourteen inches broad,
allowing eighteen inches between shelf and shelf, for otherwise
your tall Pouters, by being forced to crouch for want of height,
will get a habit of playing low, and spoil their carriage. In
these shelves erect partitions at about the distance of three
feet, fixing a blind by a board nailed against the front on each
side of every partition; by this means you will have two nests
in the length of every three feet, and your pigeons will sit dark
and private.” In Moore’s time it seems to have been usual for
fanciers to keep a few of almost all varieties, and hence his
dimensions are, unless for Pouters, unnecessarily large; but
his general arrangement is admirable, and we proceed to show
clearly its application to our supposed loft of six feet ‘square.

fo ié

inh , rc i

4S Seater

: ” ee 4 i

i 7 aa

! = | tJ

bee.

INTERNAL ARRANGEMENTS. 9

We will suppose the height of the back part, opposite the door,
to be seven feet (we most strongly advise ample height in all
cotes or lofts specially constructed, which will promote ventila-
tion, and tend to counteract canker, diphtheria, and numerous
other diseases). The back of the loft will then appear as in
Fig. 3. Here a a are the shelves, which for all varieties but
Pouters will be sufficiently roomy if made twelve inches wide
and about fourteen inches apart. At 66 is the perpendicular
partition dividing the whole into two widths, or ranges, of three
feet wide each; and cc are the perpendicular boards, also
twelve inches wide, nailed bodily over the ends of each range.
All is in this way put up in the simplest manner, and without
an inch of waste. Behind the covering boards, in the sheltered
recesses thus formed, are placed the nest-pans (dd), to he
further described in another chapter.

In such a loft as here described, we strongly advise leaving
the top ranges open, to be fronted with wire as in the figure at
Jf These pens will be most useful for the temporary con-
finement of strange pigeons, received, perhaps, on approval ; or
for hospital purposes when any ailment to be treated is not
contagious; or to confine birds it is desired to stop breeding.
It will also be well to fix double swing wire fronts to the open
part of another shelf, as at ee These will answer the same
purpose ; and by providing wire partitions, which can be slid
in between the front wires, they will make most excellent
“matching” pens, the use of which will be seen presently.
The bottom range of all, on the floor, had better be left clear,
and will come in handy, either for young ones or an occasional
ground nest, as will be seen by-and-by ; or when not wanted
for such purposes, the water-fountain can be placed under the
shelf on a raised stage, and the gravel-box or salt-cat can also
be placed there, or even the food-hopper. They will be out of
the way, and leave the floor clear, and the shelf above will keep
all from being fouled by the birds. For this latter part of the

10 THE PRACTICAL PIGHON KEEPER,

arrangement we are indebted to a hint from Mr. Hallam, of
Birmingham. There will still be left double sets of nests for
six pairs of birds, which in our opinion are all that should be
kept in such a loft; but if more must be accommodated, the
wire-fronted pens and the floor are also available.

We can thoroughly recommend this size and plan for a loft,
which is drawn from our own experience; and the same plan
can be followed at the top of a house by nailing the shelves to
the rafters, and the partitions at the proper intervals to their
sides. In one or two Scotch lofts we have seen a very broad

Fig, 4,

aa, Shelf,

cc, L-shaped Screens,
bb, Partitions. a

d, Nest-pans.

shelf—two feet wide or so—fixed against the wall, with a
partition here and there, and no other fixtures at all, each
nest-pan being simply sheltered by two pieces of board nailed
together like an L, or the two sides of a box, and stood up on
end clo.e to the wall, so that the pan lies in the angle, as
shown in Fig. 4. We, however, prefer the foregoing.

The nesting place preferred by Mr. Fulton is shown in Fig. 5.
Each half of the nest is a foot square, and the hinged cover is
made slanting, so that the pigeons cannot perch upon it. Its
advantages are three. The first is that the nests being upon
the ground, delicate or weakly hens have no difficulty in
reaching them ; the second is that the pans are very dark and
private ; the last is that the partition in the middle prevents
young birds from going to the hen, and teasing her while she

BREEDING ARRANGEMENTS il

is sitting upon her next batch of eggs. On the other hand, as
such nests can only be made upon the ground, the plan limits
the accommodation very much; they are difficult to clean
thoroughly out, and are thus apt to become infested with
vermin ; and most pigeons prefer a higher situation. A shelf
is also much more convenient for inspecting what goes on, or
for feeding a young pigeon; and, on the whole, after trying
both plans, we prefer that of old Moore for general use,
movable fences or partitions being easily placed against any

Fig. 5.

nesting-place to prevent the young ones teasing the hen or
getting into danger. The nest just figured, where room can be
given, is useful for Short-faced Tumblers and such weakly
birds; but these can also be accommodated on the floor range
of the plan figured at page 8.

We have not yet done, however, with the fixtures of our loft.
Nothing more seems to have been usual in Moore’s time; but
in one respect later experience has improved upon him. If
nothing more is provided, the pigeons will have to rest at night
in their nesting places, and these will receive a very unnecessary
amount of excrement, which is objectionable in every way.
We therefore provide roosting perches at the sides of the loft,

12 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

as shown at din Fig. 1. A very usual form for these is that
in Fig 6, where the top or perch itself is a slip of wood, about
an inch and three-quarters wide and six inches long, nailed over
the top edges of two pieces of board the same length and about
six inches wide, arranged in the form of a triangle. These
perches are fixed about twelve inches apart, projecting end out
from the side of the loft,

| | | | which is easily managed

by nailing a strip of board
to their ends, and fixing
that to the wall. The
7 use of the triangle is to
nT catch the droppings of the
I nN birds, and throw them off

Fig. 6.—TRIANGLE Pencu. from any bird that may
be on a perch exactly

underneath, on to the floor. As pigeons have scarcely any oil
in their plumage, such a precaution is very necessary to save
serious damage to it; but this form of perch is most objection-
able, the birds being very apt to knock themselves in flying
against so many sharp angles, giving rise to many cases of
wing disease. We mention the plan only because it is so fre-
qnently employed, as one to be carefully avoided; an infinitely
better one having been devised some years since by Mr.
Caridia, of Birmingham, a fancier to whom we have been
indebted for many a practical hint respecting the management
of our pigeons. These admirable perches are shown in Fig. 7,
representing two rows, one over the other. Here a « are strips
of board the length available for a row of perches, and b b are
short lengths of broom-stick or other round poles, either screwed
or glued into holes made at the proper intervals, so as to pro-
ject about five inches, The right distance is about sixteen
inches for long-reaching birds like Carriers, down to twelve
inches for smaller breeds. Underneath these are nailed to the

PERCHES FOR PIGEONS. 13

same boards, in a slanting direction, other boards (¢ ¢), about
eight inches wide, to throw off the droppings, ‘the lower edge of
this board being supported by one or two stays in any con-
venient way. It will be obvious that all the projecting perches
are guarded, as it were, by the slanting board ; and that instead
of having a lot of single perches to keep clean, this same board

fo
ee

Lie

LYLE:

\

Fig. 7.—PERCHES FOR PIGEONS.

can be cleared of all matter in an instant by one stroke of the
scraper, while the regularity and neatness of appearance, and
ease of construction, are also infinitely superior.

With the perches the fixtures of the loft are complete. The
details we have given can teadily be applied to any special case
that may occur, or to any shed or outhouse that may be avail-
able. Whatever these may be, the nest places and perches we
have given are in our opinion the best ; and it only remains to

14 TUE (RACTICAL FIGEON KEEPER.

add that either the whole should be well painted, and afterwards
periodically scrubbed with carbolic soap, or thoroughly white-
washed inside with hot lime about twice a year. We may,
however, repeat in stated terms an opinion we have virtually
expressed already, to the effect that, were unlimited space at
our disposal, we should prefer to add to the number of six-feet
divisions than to increase the size. A number of moderate-
sized compartments are superior to one or two large ones in
every respect, as well as infinitely more convenient.

CHAPTER II.

FOOD AND FEEDING.

Picrons have one great advantage over other pets, that they
give less trouble than almost any, with the exception of a few
of the most highly artificial varieties. They need no particular
delicacy in handling, as small birds do; and as the old ones
can, and do in most varieties, take the entire care and respon-
sibility of the young ones till these are old enough to feed
themselves, they do not demand the constant care and attention
necessary with rabbits or chickens. It is only needful to
understand their nature and habits, and the reasons which make
certain simple matters necessary, to have very little trouble
with them.

We will begin with the food; and as we have to start by.
advising different diet for summer and winter, it is well to
explain why this is so. In winter the birds are not breeding,
and the principal dangers to be guarded against are colds and
diarrhea. It will be readily understood, then, that at such a
time of year solid, rather heating, and slightly constipating
diet may act as a safeguard; and that, moreover, the food of

SUMMER AND WINTER FOOD 15

birds passing at first merely to a receptacle, from whence it
goes to be digested at leisure, food that does not digest too fast,
but Jasts some time, will better support the bird during long
and cold nights. And so we find to be the case. In winter,
sound tick beans or good old grey peas, with a few of the finest
tares, make the best of food for ordinary pigeons, to which may
be added a proportion of barley. But in summer the case is
very different. At this season a large part of the food has to
go to the young in a partially digested state; and hence we
want naturally a softer food, which can be rapidly converted
into pap. The process of feeding also absorbs so much mois-
ture that there is very little danger of scouring. In summer,
therefore, beans should be exchanged for grey peas, and these
largely mixed with such soft grain as wheat, small maize, or
dari. This last is a grain much resembling pearl barley in
appearance, and is occasionally called Indian millet. There is
sometimes difficulty in getting it; but we can say from expe
rience that in the breeding season it is a most valuable aid to
the pigeon fancier. The birds seem to prefer it to almost any
grain ; its small size enables it to be fed to the young with ease
even by small-gulleted -birds; and it tends also to an abundant
supply of soft food or pap. In making these changes, however,
and especially in adding softer grain to the staple of beans or
peas, there is one simple precaution to be taken, viz, to make
all such changes or additions gradually. The most valuable
food may entirely upset the digestive system through a whole loft,
if suddenly given in exchange for a different food far inferior.
With this caution we may add to the list of useful food during
the breeding season a grain otherwise dangerous, viz., raw rice,
which seems to have an extraordinary effect, given in modera-
tion, in assisting some birds to feed their young.

There are some pigeons, such as Short-faced Tumblers or
foreign Owls, too small in the gullet to swallow beans or even
full-sized peas. Such must be fed on the smaller grey peas in

16 TLE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

winter, with a few tares ; adding dari, wheat, or rice in sumimet
with great discretion.

Hempseed is bad for all pigeons as regular fond, being too
oily and heating; but a handful now and then amongst the
oceupants of a loft acts as a gentle stimulant ; it is also useful
in matching birds, and as an occasional restorative. Pigeons
prefer it to nearly anything, and careful use of hempseed is,
therefore, an excellent means for those who desire it, to make
their pigeons tame. By its use the wildest may be taught to
eat on the hand. Other small seeds, such as canary and millet,
are very useful as a relish now and then, to tempt appetite in
sick birds, or to old birds in breeding time; for instance, if
young ones seem badly fed on any particular occasion, a supply
of small seeds will often cause the parents to give them a
bountiful meal. Mixtures of such smaller grains are often sold
by corn-merchants for pigeons, and when all the kinds are of
good quality, are very useful in these ways.

We have just spoken of quality, and should here add that
this is of the greatest importance for all pigeons. Beans are
sometimes sold (to any one who will buy them) so old and
hardened with age as to be almost impossible of digestion ; and
we have also seen peas and tares so old, dry, and worm-eaten
us to be equally worthless. Both peas and tares should be a
certain age, new ones being apt to scour the birds; but they
should be sound and unshrivelled. We may also remark that
the ordinary white peas, such as are used for soup, are not, as
a rule, so good for pigeons as the grey or dark peas. They
seem to suit some birds very well, especially the hardier sorts
which can be allowed to fly at large; but other pigeons are
scoured by them, and they should therefore be always given at
first with very great caution.

Much dispute has taken place concerning the quantity of
food a pigeon eats in the course of a year, and very exaggerated
statements have been made on the subject, with very little

QUANTITY OF FOOD EATEN 17

»

foundation, A few years ago, however (in 1873 and 1874),
Mr. Harrison, Secretary of the London Amate ir Pigeon Society,
made very careful actual experiments to solve the point, and
the results are sufficiently important and interesting to be put
on permanent record. In 1873 account was kept for thirty-
eight weeks, and when the figures came to be worked out, it was
found that each pair of birds, on an average, consumed one pound
thirteen ounces, or rather over 4 pint, per week. The pigeons
were Homing birds, and the grain used in this experiment con-
sisted solely of tares, purchased at 17s.-per sack, thus bringing
the cost per pair per week to little over one penny. Tares are
scarcely ever so cheap as this, of course. In 1874 another
experiment was made for twenty-eight weeks on the same food,
with a result of 14 pints per pair per week. Later experi-
ments made with grain at higher prices showed that, at 49s,
per quarter, the pigeons cost about 5s. per pair per annum, and
at 60s. per quarter, about 6s. per pair per annum, or say 14d.
per week. It must, however, be remembered, on the one hand,
that Homing pigeons are generally fed at stated times, and then
by allowance ; and on the other, that few pigeons eat tares so
readily as other grain: at least, our own experience has in-
variably been that tares, however good, are left to the last. We
never kept any detailed account; but our general experience
has been that pigeons kept confined cost us a fraction over 21d,
per pair per week, though some of this may have been owing
to the sparrows before mentioned.

We strongly advise that the birds be fed from a hopper,
and: have the food always by them; except where—as with
Flying Tumblers and Homing birds—stated feeding times bear
an important part in their training. It does not very much
matter how the hopper is constructed, so long as it is impos-
sible for the birds to stand upon or foul the feeding apertures,
Fig. 8 shows Mr. Fulton’s hopper; Fig. 9 are two forms
devised by Mr. Allen ; and Figs. 10 and 11 Mr. Battye’s. Each

G

18 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER,

nen Si

FOOD HOPPERS. 19

of these latter hoppers, it will be seen, are made in two forms—
one for the centre of the room or loft, and the other to be
placed against a wall. Mr Battye has also invented a hopper,
shown in Fig. 12, so contrived that each feeding aperture is
closed by a swing door, and only opened when the pigeons step
upon a lever. ‘They readily learn to do so; and this hopper
has, therefore, one advantage in lofts which are not sparrow-
proof, as the weight of the small birds is not sufficient to
expose the grain. On the whole, for small lofts or divisions

such as we have described, we prefer the second form shown in
Fig. 9.

Where sheds have been converted for use as lofts, there is
often trouble from mice, which, if allowed, will eat a great
quantity of grain. Not only so; but their excrement, and the
“mousy ” quality of what is left, seem to exert an actually
poisonous effect upon many pigeons. This is unnecessary, being
avoidable by very simple means. We have tried the plan of
suspending a board by four wires from the roof, at a certain
distance from the ground, and this is quite effectual as regards
the mice ; but unfortunately the pigeons are very apt to injure
themselves against the wires, which they do not appear ever to
get accustomed to. A better plan is to make a small table, the

20 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

top large enough to hold the hopper, supported by one single
central leg of smooth brass pipe, about eighteen inches high.

We are very much inclined to think that pigeons would
thrive better in confinement if they could have a regular
supply of green food of the right kind. They certainly eat it,
largely in a state of nature; and though we are aware that to
give it is often followed by bad results, this is only too easily
accounted for by the intermittent nature of the supply. We
know several fanciers who find benefit from hanging a fresh
lettuce to the outside of each aviary every day throughout the
breeding season ; and we believe much other garden stuff might
be found beneficial in the same way, or an occasional turf of
grass. We think it extremely likely that “Canker” and
kindred diseases may be largely caused by the almost utter
absence of the cooling diet so largely provided by nature ; and
though we would strongly advise that all such experiments be
made with great caution, we do feel persuaded that careful and
persistent experiment in this direction would be followed by
general benefit to many lofts, and in particular by a fresher
“condition” of the birds.

Water should be provided in a fountain, and renewed daily.
However true it may be that most of the pigeons will drink
from the bath, there will often be a few that do not bathe, or
the bath may now and then be forgotten, The common
poultry fountain, with a hood over the drinking part, will answer
very well for small lofts, and may be put under the lower shelf
if fitted up as in Fig. 3. Where more birds are kept, an all-
round trough is better, however, some pigeons being very
quarrelsome when eating or drinking. The pattern shown in
Fig. 13 is very good, as it is in two parts, and can be thoroughly
cleaned. It is made by Messrs. Crook. Fig. 14 shows another
useful all-round fountain, made in metal by Mr. Battye, of
Leeds.

Pigeons are very fond of washing or bathing, an+ for this

WATER FOUNTAINS. 21

purpose a broad shallow pan or dish should be provided. It
may be of zinc or galvanized iron, and a good’ size for a
smallish loft is about two feet square by three or four inches
deep, filled with water to the depth of about two and a half
inches. We strongly recommend that the bath be always
allowed, except in freezing weather; and if so, it must be re-
newed at least every two days, as it becomes rapidly fouled by
a kind of floury “bloom,” which comes off the bird when

bathing, and which readily rubs off even on a dry coat-sleeve,
It is much the best if the bath can be placed in the outside
aviary, as it can in nearly all cases ; but if any peculiar circum-
stances make this inconvenient, a special pattern should be
made, with extra or outer sides, some six inches distant from
the inner pan which holds the water, and which will catch the
splashing. A bath in the loft is, however, such a constant
nuisance, that it should always be avoided if possible ; in fact,
we are convinced that even the mere presence of so much
evaporating surface of water is distinctly injurious, and causes
many attacks of cold or roup. When small and weakly

22 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

birds are kept, there should either be a ledge at the side of the
bath or a piece of brick in the centre, else an unusually
weakly bird may be unable to get out of the water, and be
drowned.

There is yet another requisite, however, and that not the
least important. Almost every one has noticed the propensity
of pigeons left at liberty to peck at old mortar, and their in-
ordinate fondness for salt. The last circumstance makes it
extremely probable that the original Blue Rock, or wild pigeon,
was an inhabitant of the sea-cliffs ; and the salt no doubt plays
an important part in keeping their blood and digestive system
in proper order. The old fanciers used to make what they
called a “salt-cat.” This was composed of equal bulks of brick
clay, coarse gritty gravel, and old pounded mortar. To about
a gallon of this mixture was added half a pint of cummin seed
and the same quantity of coarse bay salt, and the whole mixed
up with urine into a stiff mortar. Strange to say, this nauseous
compound is preferred by all pigeons to more cleanly substi-
tutes; and since few people now like to dabble in such messes,
there are almost always dealers who find it answer to make and
sell salt-cat, and of whom it may be bought without asking
awkward questions. It should be placed in a covered box,
pierced with holes round the sides through which the birds
can put their heads to peck at it, and not exposed to the rain,
which washes the salts away. Many people prefer a mixture of
mortar, sandy gravel, and earth, with a portion of bay salt, not
mixed up at all, but given as a loose, dry mixture ; and this
will answer very well for all practical purposes. Such a mix-
ture should be kept in a box, with a long horizontal slit in one
side wide enough for the pigeons to put their heads through,
but not large enough for them to get in, as they would soon
tread the contents firm and solid. When old mortar cannot be
had, old slaked lime will do instead. We have, however, found
that pigeons certainly are, as the old fanciers helieved, ex-

MINERAL SUBSTANCES. 23

tremely fond of cummin seed ; and may suggest as a compro-
mise that a salt-cat containing it may easily oe mixed with
brine so as to answer all needful purposes.

The proper supply of these last necessaries is of great
importance to the health of a loft; and to some want in this
direction, as well as of the green food already mentioned, must
be traced the heated, corrupt condition of blood that manifests
itself by many diseases. Some diseases are common to animal
life, but canker and its allies are unknown to wild birds; and
experiment with some cooling salts, such as carbonate of
potash, or with some others found in sea-water, might be pro-
bably rewarded by great benefit. One hint in this direction
we may give, for which we are indebted originally to a German
friend unrivalled in his success with aviary birds generally.
He found that pigeons shared with many of these birds a
greedy appetite for scraped cuttlefish bone, and appeared greatly
benefited by it. Now this substance contains many of the salts
spoken of, and we are strongly inclined to believe that it acts
as a cooler and purifier of the blood in default of more natural
means. We can recommend it strongly, and believe further
investigation might find other valuable prophylactic agents of
the same class. Meantime, however, let the gravel-box or
salt-cat never be neglected.

It may be noticed finally, that while pulse or other grain
forms the most natural food of pigeons, they will often eat
various kinds of soft food with relish. Crumbled oatmeal cake
is eaten greedily by many ; also boiled potato and sopped bread,
rice boiled in milk, &c. There is also no doubt that when at
large they will eat grubs or small worms; and it has been
found that cold bacon fat, minced into small bits, will be eaten.
We cannot recommend any of these things as regular diet ; but
some of them are useful occasionally for birds feeding young
ones, while others may sometimes, as a total change and
stimulus to the appetite, be the means of saving a sick pigeon.

24 THR PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

CHAPTER III.

BREEDING AND GENERAL MANAGEMENT.

As a basis for all successful management of pigeons, it must he
remembered that they are pairing birds, and, as a rule, main-
tain a union once formed with considerable fidelity. They can
be parted and re-mated; but it is difficult to do this if the
older partner be within sight or sound. Hence it is very
necessary to see that the birds are really pairs (of cocks and
hens), and then not to disturb them during the breeding season
if it can be possibly helped ; and in case a bird dies another
mate should be supplied, if possible. An odd hen will do little
mischief; but an odd or unmated cock will very often upset a
whole loft, and cause the loss of many eggs or young ones by
his quarrelsomeness. Such a bird should be provided with
some mate, therefore, even if a proper one cannot be found for
him.

This makes it rather important to be able to distinguish
between cocks and hens ; but for this purpose no infallible rule
can be given. The sexes are naturally very much alike; but,
in addition to this, all fanciers have for generations endeavoured
to breed the hens as much like cocks as possible. As a rule,
cocks are more thick and massive about the head and beak,
thicker in the neck, and stouter built in all respects; but, as
these terms are comparative, a fully developed and vigorous
hen may easily surpass a naturally smaller cock. Again: as a
rule, the cock’s breast-bone is rather larger, and the two bones
near the vent are in the hen set wider apart ; but these signs
also may fail, owing to the general make of the bird. The
voice of the cock, again, is most powerful. Upon the whole,
however, the most trustworthy test is to observe the behaviour
of an unknown bird with one or another whose sex is known,
when the peculiar and appropriate gestures will in almost all

DETERMINATION OF SEX. 25

cases reveal the sex. We say in “ almost” all cases, however,
advisedly, since we can state positively that even this test is
not infallible. Some few masculine-looking hens will “ play wp”
to other birds, and behave in ail respects like a cock; and
people have been unjustly suspected of fraud on this account
who have acted and given assurances according to the best of
their real knowledge and belief. We remember one young Barb
which puzzled us for over four months after it attained full
growth. From its progress, as a nestling, we had every reason
to believe it a hen, when its sudden boldness and change in
demeanour compelled a reversal of that opinion. Still later,
we saw reason to return to the first impression; but after that,
the bird’s behaviour respectively to two strange pigeons turned
into the loft placed the matter, as we considered, beyond any
doubt, and we had virtually sold the pigeon as a promising
young cock, when all doubts were set at rest by the naughty’
bird laying. We have known more than one case of the same
sort, and so does almost any fancier of practical experience. In
such cases the actual laying of eggs is the only decisive test ;
but they are, after all, very rare and exceptional, and we only
cite them to inculcate caution before giving utterance to what
may prove an unfounded suspicion.

Even “ matching up” is no conclusive test of the sex of
pigeons, since it is no uncommon thing for two cocks to pair
and sit with the greatest assiduity ; nay, if eggs be supplied
them, they have been known to hatch and rear the young in the
most exemplary manner. Much more frequently will two hens
pair if they find no proper mates ; but in this case they lay eggs
—sometimes two, and sometimes four. In the latter case the
four will be in the same nest, and occasionally those of one hen
or both may hatch, from a chance connection with some cock
in the loft. The strangest thing is that occasionally even
proper matches have been abandoned for these strange unions,
which are probably due to the great resemblance in pigeons

26 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

between the two sexes. We may also remark in this place
that on rare occasions a cock has been known to pair with two
and even three hens, taking his turn in sitting with them all.-
When pigeons are left unrestrained it is a pretty sight to
see them courting ; and no one can better the description long
ago written by Mr. E. 8. Dixon. ‘They begin,” he says, ‘“ to
go together in pairs, except when associated with the flock at
feeding times ; and when they are resting on the roofs or bask-
ing in the sun, they retire apart to short distances for the
purposes of courtship, and pay each other little kind attentions,
such as nestling close, and mutually tickling the heads one of
another. At last comes what is called ‘ billing,’ which is in fact
a kiss, a hearty and intense kiss : as soon as this takes place the
marriage is complete, and is forthwith consummated. The pair
are now united, not necessarily for life, though usually so, but
rather durante bene placito, so long as they continue to be satis-
fied with each other. If they are Tumblers, they mount aloft
and try which can tumble best; if they are Pouters, they emu-
late one the other's puffings, tail-sweepings, circlets in the air,
and wing-clappings; while the Faniails and Runts, and all
those kinds which the French call pigeons mondains, walk the
ground with conscious importance and grace. But this is their
honeymoon—the time for the frolics of giddy young people.
The male is the first to become serious. He foresees that ‘the
Campbells are coming’ better than his bride, and therefore takes
possession of some locker or box that seems an eligible tene-
ment. If it is quite empty and bare, he carries to it a few
straws or light sticks; but if the apartment has been already
furnished for him, he does not at present take much further
trouble in that line. Here he settles himself, and begins com-
plaining. His appeal is sometimes answered by the lady
affording him her presence, sometimes not: in which case he
does not pine in solitude very long, but goer and searches ont
his careless helpmate, and with close pursui anda few sharp-

MATCHING OF PIGEONS. 27

pecks, if necessary, insists upon her attending to her business at
home. Like the good husband described in Fuller’s Holy State,
‘his love to his wife weakeneth not his ruling her, and his
ruling her lesseneth not his loving her.’ And so the hen obeys,
occasionally, however, giving some trouble ; but at last she feels
that she must discontinue general visiting and long excursions,
and enters the modest establishment that has been prepared for
her performance of her maternal duties. A day or two after
she has signified her acceptance of the new home an egg may
be expected to be found there. Over this she (mostly) stands
sentinel till, after an intervening day, a second egg is laid, and
incubation really commences: not hotly and energetically at first,
as with hens, turkeys, and many other birds, but gently and
with increasing assiduity.

“ And now the merits of her mate grow apparent. He does
not leave his lady to bear a solitary burden of matrimonial care,
while he has indulged in the pleasures only of their union. He
takes a share, though a minor one, of the task of incubating ;
and he more than performs his half share of the labour of rear-
ing the young. At about noon, sometimes earlier, the hens
leave their nests for air and exercise, as well as food, and the
cocks take their place upon the eggs. If you enter a pigeon-
loft at about two o’clock in the afternoon, you will find all the
cock birds sitting—a family arrangement that affords an easy
method of discovering which birds are paired with which. The
ladies are to be seen taking their respective turns in the same
locations early in the morning, in the evening, and all the
night. The older a cock pigeon grows, the more fatherly does
he become. So greatis his fondness for having a rising family,
that an experienced. unmated cock bird, if he can but induce
some flighty young hen to lay him a couple of eggs as a great
favour, will almost entirely take the charge of hatching and
rearing them by himself. We are possessed of an old Blue
Antwerp Carrier who by following this line was, with but little

28 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

assistance from any female, an excellent provider of pie materials,
till he succeeded in educating a hen Barb to be a steady wife
and mother.”

The fancier cannot, however, afford to let matters settle
themselves in this way. He insists on controlling his “ matches ”
with as much stolid determination as a French papa and mamma
devote to the “arranging” of a marriageable daughter, and he
fortunately finds his materials about as tractable. If matters
are to go thus easily, however, the sexes must, as a rule, be
separated during the winter ; for birds left together for long
may acquire an attachment it is exceedingly hard to break up.
Here, then, is found the advantage of having the loft in at least
two divisions, As the pairing season approaches it will be
sufficient in nearly all cases to put the two birds it is desired
to pair into a matching cage for a few days. A regular
“matching pen,” as it is called, is a large cage which hay a wire
partition that can be slid in so as to divide it into two parts,
the hen being placed in one, and the cock in the other. When
they have had a couple of days to get used to each other the
partition is withdrawn ; they usually settle down at once, and
may be turned into the loft a couple of days later with safety.
The partition is often not necessary, especially if the birds have
been long unmated. If, on the other hand, they have been
previously mated in a union it is necessary to dissolve, it is
generally necessary to keep each bird by itself for several days,
and always needful to keep them from the sight of the former
mate ; otherwise it will be difficult, if not impossible, to form a
fresh union. For the same reason, when any bird’s mate has
died, it should be kept for a few days alone before being intro-
duced to a fresh one. :

It is sometimes needful to dismatch birds already breeding.
The owner may have procured a better match, or found from
the early young ones that the match is a failur e, &e. In that
case, again, the birds should be kept alone for a week at the

SETTLING THE BIRDS. 29

very least before being re-mated, and care should be taken
that the old companions are placed in separate lofts. For all
these purposes, and as “matching pens,” nothing can be better
adapted than the wire-fronted shelves already described in our
first chapter.

When there is any difficulty in matching it usually comes
from the hen. A strong bold bird will, especially if she has been
matched previously, often thrash the husband proposed to her
most severely, and, if left to herself, defeat in this way all pro-
posed arrangements. This is, however, only where the birds
come together on equal terms ; and can be overcome by taking
advantage of the fact that a pigeon most at home in any given
place is nearly always master of it. In such a case, therefore,
the cock should be left alone in the matching pen, with only a
daily fly of an hour to keep him vigorous, and given a little
hempseed ; while the hen is kept in a small and rather dark pen
quite away from him, also with a little hempseed every day.
After a few days’ close confinement, about the middle of the
morning turn the hen in to the cock, and he will almost in-
variably reduce her to submission.

Another precaution is very necessary to avoid trouble and
loss, and that is, never to turn a lot of newly-matched birds
into the loft together. If this is done they will all be quarrel-
ling for choice of nesting places; and besides the general
hindrance to breeding and damage to eggs, the result will
probably be several cross-matches, or divorces and new unions.
Turn one pair in by themselves, or two pairs if the loft is clear.
They will soon choose a home ; when another pair can be turned
locse, and so on till all are settled. Here, again, will be found
the great use of the portions of the shelves which are fronted
with wire in the plan already given. Pigeons once thoroughly
matched, and turned in judiciously, will generally remain faitn-
ful throughout the season. |

For the actual nests we strongly advise earthenware pana

30 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

There are various patterns of these, but most of them resemble
one or other of the patterns shown in Fig. 15, and the exact
shape is really not very material. They should not, however, be
too deep, or the parents will find a difficulty in getting gently
on to the eggs. They are usually to be had at pigeon-shops in
large towns, but if unobtainable in this way, a few dozens can
always be ordered at the nearest pottery. They should be
made thick and heavy, so that they will not overturn with the
weight of a pigeon on the edge ; and the size across will vary
from seven inches for small pigeons up to ten or eleven inches
for Carriers and Pouters. The large sizes are better made
rather shallow in proportion. Common unglazed red ware is

Fig. 15.

the usual material. In these nest-pans should be placed coarse
pine sawdust, an inch deep—such sawdust as emits a strong
odour of turpentine is what we mean. If this cannot be
obtained, any coarse sawdust may be made to do by sprinkling
a little turpentine upon it, and kneading well with the hands so
as to spread the spirit evenly through ; but fine dust is objec-
tionable, and liable to get in the eyes of both young and old
birds, The advantage of this material is a thorough immunity
from insect vermin. Similar sawdust should be laid thickly on
the floor of the loft, and will keep all clean and tidy. If laid
thinly it will blow up by the action of the wings, but this is
not the case if laid down an inch deep. The droppings can be
raked off once or twice a week, and the whole renewed, say,
ence a month. If this plan is pursued there will hardly ever
be occasion for complaint or annoyance,

PREVENTION OF VERMIN. 31

Some people use birch twigs for the nests, such as are cut
off by besom makers in trimming their work. The pigeons
seem to prefer these to anything; and as they also have an
aromatic smell which seems to repel vermin, where they can
be obtained they make an excellent material, but the sawdust
is most generally at command. The hopper and fountain will
of course be raised on a piece of wood, so as to be above the
sawdust on the floor.

Another eflicacious plan of keeping insects from the loft is
to suspend a few bottles, open at the mouth,
and filled with bi-sulphide of carbon. The smell
is very disagreeable, and seems to keep all insect
vermin away, while the pigeons appear not to
mind it in the least; but as the vapour is highly

“inflammable, those who have to visit their lofts
by candlelight must take care not to bring the
light near the mouth of any of the bottles. The
use of sawdust will answer most purposes. If
the proper kind cannot be procured in quantity
sufficient to cover the floor, coarse sand or
gravel is the best substitute, but the loft must j
then be cleaned oftener, and it is advisable to Fig. 16.
keep turpentine, paratin, or carbolic acid
sprinkled about, or to use the bi-sulphide as above mentioned.

In any case the slanting boards under the perches, the
shelves, &c., must be kept clean by being well scraped at
frequent intervals. This is facilitated if they are painted.
Much the best form of scraper is the triangular one shown in
Fig. 16. It has not only three working edges, but will scrape
out corners which a square form cannot reach.

We purposely describe none but the earthen nest-pans, from
a conviction of their infinite superiority to all others. The
only substitute we would admit is a wooden nest-pan, well
painted, so as to leave no chink or aperture of any kind. We

32 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

have seen straw nests made as bee-hives are; but any such
receptacles would swarm with vermin, and are most objection-
able on that account. ‘Two nest-pans should ve provided for
each division of the shelf or nesting place.

With the exception of the very hardiest varieties, pigeons
should not be paired till, March, early or late in the month,
depending on the weather; and they should be separated as
soon after the end of August as they have fairly done with
their then pair of eggs. Hardy flyers will take no harm if left
to themselves, but most fancy pigeons are much weakened by
being allowed to breed for more than the above period ; and
birds bred earlier or later rarely survive, or come to much
good if they do. It may of course be worth while for a fancier
to run risks for the sake of getting. early birds forward for the
autumn shows; but if he does so he must be very careful.
Some persons take away the pair of eggs and give them to
other birds to hatch, by which means the first hen will lay
again much sooner. We have known this plan carried through
a whole season. But it is a cruelty, and the hen is almost
invariably ruined by it; in fact, she is generally sold after such
a process of “pumping,” the seller knowing—what the buyer
does not—that the apparently fine-looking hen is past breeding
anything good again.

Barren hens are very frequent among the more high-class
pigeons. We have just alluded to over-breeding as one
cause of this ; but it occurs in so many other cases, that there
can be little doubt the highly unnatural developments of the
fancier tend to check reproductive power. Such barren birds
ean sometimes, if in good health generally, be brought into
breeding. They will go to nest like other pigeons, and by
giving them a couple of eggs from common hardy birds their
soft meat will come on, and they will feed as usual, If this is
continued a few times, especially if they can have a fair amount
of exercise, the result is very often a success, Even if not,

LAYING AND SITTING. 33

these barren birds can often be made very useful ; for a couple
of dummy eggs will tempt many of them to sit almost at any
time, if put in the pan at the right intervals; and they thus
become very handy as feeders, since they will, when the time is
up, take young ones and feed them as if they had hatched
themselves.

Soon after matching—generally ranging from one to three
weeks, according to age and time of year—the cock will begin
to drive the hen towards her nest, and seem uneasy whenever
she is away from it. That is a sign laying is near, and in fact
the eggs generally appear in from two to five days after. Two
are laid; the first usually about five or six o'clock in the
afternoon, the hen standing more or less over it all the next
day and night, and laying the second egg about two o'clock
on the third day. The young hatch on the eighteenth day
from the laying of the second egg. Very rarely three eggs
are laid, and we have heard of one or two cases in which four
have appeared, but the rule of a pair is rarely broken. These
two are in three cases out of four a cock and hen, but by no
means always so, as usually supposed; about twenty-five per
cent. being pairs of one sex or the other. When one is a hen
it is generally the last of the two, and as such likely to be
stunted in growth from the earlier hatching of the first, which
has had a start by the hen standing over it before the other
was laid, and thus gets fed and becomes larger and stronger
before the hen is hatched. To avoid this, laying should be
watched for every evening, and the first egg taken away and
replaced by a nest-egg of bone or a waste pigeon’s egg, to be
replaced the evening the second is laid. This plan will save or
improve many a-hen that otherwise would be dwarfed in
rearing. It may here be noted that pigeons never eat their
eggs, so that the breakage of a waste one, should it occur, need
cause no fear of bad habits in this respect.

Weakly hens are liable to be egg-bound or have difficulty

D

34 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

in laying. In such cases the cock gets very anxious, and
worries and drives the hen to an extent that makes matters
far worse. He must, therefore, be shut up, when a drop of oil
applied to the hen’s vent will often produce the egg. If not,
the best assistant that we know of is a tea-spoonful of warm
treacle mixed with chopped groundsel (rather less for a small
pigeon), which we have repeatedly known to be successful,
especially if the bird’s vent be held for a few minutes over the
steam from a jug of very hot water. After giving these
remedies, the hen is best shut quietly in her own shelf, with
thick sawdust all over, in case she lays on the shelf instead of
in the pan. If she seems recovered in the morning, the cock
may be set at liberty ; but if not, he must be kept shut up till
the second is laid, which usually gives no difficulty.

The laying of the eggs brings us to a very important point
—the essential difference between the management of pigeons
and of fowls, which it is well to understand thoroughly. Once
understood, no creatures are more manageable than pigeons;
but they have their “ ways,” which must be studied. You can,
with a little management, set a fowl at any time, on any nest,
keeping her waiting for weeks if convenient, or giving her eggs
due to hatch in a few days, On the other hand, when she does
hatch you must look after her, or her brood will perish. Now
it is just the contrary with pigeons. You provide all the
nesting conveniences as above described, rather more than
sufficient to give a home to each pair of birds; and most of
them will take up with one or other of the compartments so
provided, if they have been gradually turned into the loft as
before advised. But some may not, Now, however this may
be, each pair must be allowed to sit and hatch in the place they
have chosen. The hen may lay on the floor, possibly ; in that
ease, all you can do is to provide a little more privacy by
placing a brick or board, or something, so as to afford a, little
screen, and give her a nest-pan. Even this should be done at

NOLDING A PIGEON. = 35

night, carefully and quietly, as much in the dark as possible ;
done so, such little additions to comfort will generally be
accepted, and all will go well enough if care be further taken not
to intrude more than absolutely necessary upon those birds which
have chosen such an inconveniently public domicile. In fact,
in the breeding season only the regular attendant—owner or
otherwise—should enter the loft. If he throws down at first a
very few grains of hempseed on each visit, the pigeons will
soon get to know him, and allow him—or her—-to come quite
close to the nest-pan without rising, unless of a peculiarly wild
disposition. Many will allow the nest-pan to be even lifted and
examined without leaving, if care is taken never to startle
them by too sudden movements. All “wild” catching must be
avoided ; when catching is necessary, it should be done with one
quiet but sudden dart, which makes no mistake and causes no
disturbance. Treated thus, most pigeons soon get not to mind
being caught ; but wild attempts which miss, and send all the
birds flying round in terror, may cause the loss of a whole
round of eggs. Such inconsiderate treatment also causes
disease of the heart, and not a few cases of rupture or displace-
ment of the intestines. We have often found the last in birds
submitted to us for post-mortem examination, and feel sure it
has been caused by violent catching.

It may be well here to explain the proper way of holding a
pigeon. It can be in either hand ; but in each case, it should
be with the breast in the palm (Fig. 17), the head towards the
little finger, the legs going through between the first and second.
fingers, and the thumb across the back. Held firmly, but lightly, |
in this position, a bird is helpless, knows it is, and never
attempts to escape. It can be examined thus in all parts and
in all directions, and soon becomes used to being handled. To
say the truth, we believe a great deal of the charm of the
pigeon fancy lies in the facility with which a bird can be thus
held in the hand and examined. A fow] cannot be so; and

36 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

the facility with which pigeons can, as apart from the cumber-
some bodies of poultry, and the fragility and wildness of
smaller birds, we suspect gives a sense of personal possession
and enjoyment which counts for much in the long-run.

The hen sits all night, usually coming off about ten in the
morning, though the exact time depends a little on the amount

Fig. 17.—Hoipiye a Pieron.

of light. She generally stays off till two or three in the after.
noon, during which period the cock takes her place. Not the
slightest anxiety need be felt about the eggs being allowed to
chill.

Many pigeons would die in the shell if not assisted, par-
ticularly among the very short-faced birds, whose beaks, when
of the quality desired, seem sometimes too short to pierce the
shell. When the time is fully up, therefore, and hatching has
not begun, if the young one can be heard inside, it will be well

VARIOUS HINTS ON ITATCHING. 37

to crack the shell with a pin as near the point of the beak as
can be guessed; or, if after the shell is sprung no progress
scems to be made for some time, the crack should be gently
extended round the egg. This will save many a young one; and
if, on the other hand, they really should die in the shell, it is
very desirable to know it, in order that another young one from
some other pair, or a pair, if any want shifting, may be given
the parents to feed off their soft meat, and save them from
“going sick” with it, which is apt to disorder the whole system,
and will sometimes upset their breeding for the entire season.
Fortunately, most pigeons will take to either a single young ‘one
or a pair under such circumstances, whether newly hatched or a
few days old.

In very hot or dry weather it will be desirable to sprinkle
the shelves on which the nest-pans stand with water, in order
to keep the eggs from becoming too dry; though pigeons are
not so subject to this mishap as poultry, nor is it proper to
sprinkle their eggs, as is usual in summer with those of the
latter. The fertility of the eggs can be ascertained after a few
days in the same manner as usual with those of fowls, by hold-
ing them before a candle, when the fertile ones appear dark,
the barren eggs as clear as at first. The eggs very rarely perish
from cold. When eggs are found barren under valuable birds,
it ‘is best, if possible, to exchange them for fertile eggs laid
within a day or two of the same time by coarser birds, and
thus avoid disturbing the system of the more highly-bred ones.
If none such can be had, it is best to take the barren eggs
away when sat upon about ten days, before the soft meat comes
on, and to keep the birds separate for about ten days more, to
keep them from going to nest so soon; they will then gladly
pair again, and generally go on with little or no harm. Or
they may be allowed to sit out their time, and a young one, a
few days old, given them at the proper time to feed them off.

For pigeons differ further from fowls in that they feed their

38 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPEK.

own young, beginning with a kind of pap, or soft food, which is
secreted by the crops of both parents at the date of hatching,
It closely resembles curd in both appearance and composition,
so that the “ pigeon’s milk” so often ridiculed is no myth, but
a veritable product. It is pumped up by a kind of vomiting
action, and greedily swallowed by the young, who insert their
beaks into the mouth of the parent for the purpose. A young
pigeon’s beak, by the way, is thick, soft, and Aeshy in appear-
ance so long as the soft food lasts. By degrees half-digested
peas or other grain are mingled with the curd, until at last the
grain is fed pure, and only a little soaked in the crop. Here
will be seen the reason of a somewhat softer diet during the
breeding season, very old beans or peas obstinately refusing to
dissolve, and thus starving the young. If all goes well, how-
ever, the diet gradually becomes harder and harder, until the
young pigeon is able to pick up for itself.

When the young thrive, they grow with a rapidity which is
amazing. You can in simple truth almost see the daily increase;
and if you cannot, something is wrong. The growth of a chick
is nothing to it. Mr. Dixon found a young pigeon to weigh as
follows :-—

When hatched . ‘ . . ¥ ounce.
Sixth day . . . . » 4} ounces.
Seventh day . 3 . o 62.
Ninth day . si . 5 - 8
One month . FH A . - 122

The last weight exceeded that of the parent, and the figures are
very significant if we compare them with the weight of a
chicken of the same ages. Mr. Dixon accounts for such extra-
ordinary growth by the fact that the young pigeon is so help-
less as to be quiet all the time, and has two digestions at work
for it besides its own—a reason which is no doubt true. Any
way, the fact leaves the fancier in no doubt how his’ birds are
getting on: they are either galloping on, or likely to “go home.”

FEEDING OF THE YOUNG. 39

Very little trouble is likely to happen with most varivties
of pigeons, which, if only provided with proper food for them-
selves, will take the sole responsibility of the young ones. For
this reason we strongly advise that, whatever the preference
may be, every beginner should only keep such birds for the
first season, during which he will gain experience of their ways
and habits. There is a wide variety of such breeds in Jacobins,
Dragoons, Antwerps, and any of the so-called “Toy” pigeons,
except the short-beaked Turbits and Owls ; the pretty Fantails
also feed well. But some varieties, either from being very
highly in-bred (such as Carriers and Pouters), or some me-
chanical difficulty in their very short beaks (such as Barbs and
Tumblers), are “not good feeders,” and require coarser birds as
nurses. Flying at liberty very much mends this state of
things; and Dr. Ginsburg once told us that he found his Carriers,
which were first-class in quality and points, though only kept
for private recreation, fed their young with no difficulty, being
left to fly round a country house. But in the aviary help is
needed for such birds after the first week or so, during which
nearly all pigeons can feed their young. Here, however, we
are met by another distinction between the management of
pigeons and of poultry. A fowl will be a good mother to a
brood that hatch the very day after the eggs are given to her ;
but it will readily be understood that if you give pigeons eggs
which are due to hatch too soon, a supply of soft food will not
be secreted, and the young must perish if left to unassisted
nature. On the other hand, if eggs were exchanged which
were not due till some days after the nursing pigeons would
have hatched, the birds would in most cases go “sick,” as it is
called, for a few days at the proper time, after which the supply
would go off. For these reasons it does not answer, as a rule,
to exchange the eggs, unless those of both the breeding birds
and the nurses hatch within a day of one another. It is also
better, as a rule, for the squeakers to have the food of their own

40 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

parents at first ; and hence it is usual to exchange the young
birds themselves a few days after hatching. It will readily be
seen that with pigeons which require nurses it is highly desirable
to have at least two pairs of such for every pair of breeding
birds, in order that nurses may be ready at the required date.
For, as will again be readily understood, the valuable young
ones should be transferred to birds which have hatched a few
days after themselves, by which they get a larger supply of
softer food, and grow the better for it; whereas, if given to
parents that hatched earlier, it would be too hard for them.
The common squeakers are usually destroyed, but are often,
being coarser and hardier in constitution, successfully reared by
the more valuable parents; and it is better for the health of
these, and gives the hen more rest, if they can be. ‘This is
easily ensured by helping them to feed.

Though such, however, must be the general rule in
“shifting” pigeons, as it is called, a fancier who knows his
birds can now and then take liberties. We have occasionally
kept birds we desired as feeders as much as seven days on
eggs (in one case eleven days) beyond the proper time of
hatching, and then given them young ones only two days old.
And we have also given some birds eggs which hatched several
days before their own would have been due. In neither case
was the proper supply of soft food or pap ready for the first
day or two; but by helping the young over this stage, in a
little time the strong parental instinct has made things right.
Such liberties can only be taken with birds proved to be quiet —
and good nurses, in which point there is a great difference in
pigeons, some being wild and skittish, while others allow
almost anything to be done with them or to them. Such
quiet feeders are invaluable ; and in studying the birds, and
getting to know their dispositions, lies much of the success in
pigeon management. Some fanciers will value a proved pair
of quiet and good feeders at £5 per pair, and breed them as

FEEDER OR NURSE. 41

sedulously as their high-class Carriers, though quite worthless
from any other pvint of view.

When feeders are required, they should be chosen with
some reference to the kind which has to be fed. Thus, for long
and heavy-beaked birds like Carriers, Dragoons make the best
feeders, having a similar kind of head on a more moderate
scale, They will also feed well any pigeons with average heads,
like Pouters, or even Barbs, which have large heads and beaks,
though short. But for Barbs, shorter-headed birds, like the
weedings of exhibition Antwerps, answer better ; while either
would be too coarse in beak for fine-headed young pigeons like
short-faced Tumblers. For these, common Jacobins, or most
common Toys, or long-faced Tumblers make good feeders. In
all cases the quietest birds should be selected. The transfer
should be made in the dark, if possible, and before the plumage
is so far grown that the cheated birds can discern any startling
difference in colour. With this precaution there is scarcely
ever any difficulty ; but we repeat our advice that every
beginner should confine himself for the first season to birds
which can bring up their own young, that he may grow
accustomed to them before attempting more difficult tasks.

But we have alluded to “helping” the young while the
natural food from the parent was not forthcoming ; and this
may be necessary fox, several reasons. The parents cannot
make the soft food “shout having food themselves; and the
accidental omission ic replenish a hopper may cause the
evening or morning supply for all the you. yeigqueakers to fail.
Or there may be no nurses for the young (sad feeders, whose
food has failed after a week or ten days. Must the young ones
die in such a case? Not a bit of it. Nothing is more easy
than to feed young pigeons artificially after, at least, a day or
two. The simplest, easiest, and quickest way is to chew small
mouthfuls of some plain midk biscuit into a smooth pap, to
take the little squeaker in hand, and feed from the lips, inte

42 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

which its beak must be inserted. It will feel for the food
greedily enough, and the process is easy if it be’ remembered
that the mandibles must be taken sideways between the lips, so
ag to open between them ; the tip of the owner's tongue then
pushes the masticated food between the open mandibles. Wo
see nothing more objectionable in this than in a young lady
feeding a canary; and by this method a young pigeon can be
“ filled up” almost instantly. Those who are so fastidious as
to dislike such a proceeding can 'get a small glass syringe with
a large aperture ; mash the biscuit up with hot milk, and feed
by inserting the point of the syringe into the throat. This is
equally effectual, but more tedious ; and should a lot of birds be
found starving from such an accident as is hinted at above,
time lost may mean several deaths. It is well to examine
all the young ones every night, to see if the crops are empty
or full; if empty, they should be filled up in one of the ways
described.

The same failure to feed may occur at a later stage, when the
pap has gone off, and the old birds should be feeding with peas
or grain only just softened in their crops. In this case, peas
must be soaked all night in cold water, to swell and soften
them. Before feeding, pour sufficient hot water on them to
make them lukewarm, and opening the mandibles of the
squeaker between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand,
with the second or third finger behind the neck, pass soaked
peas down the throat with the right hand till the crop is very
loosely filled. The young ones will, after a few meals, eagerly
welcome their feeder, and it will, in fact, be almost impossible
to drive them away till satisfied. They should always be put
back in their own nest-pan till strong enough to leave it of their
own accord. Feeders may be dispensed with, and pigeons brought
entirely up in this way as soon as their natural food fails, if the
old birds sit on them. When thus reared they often become so
tame as to be actually troublesome. And it will be seen that

MANAGEMENT OF SQUEAKERS. 43

there is very little need of loss under any circumstances, if only
a little attention can be given regularly morning and evening.
A great deal of pleasure is to be found in all this, and in watch-
ing the produce of each pair grow up to maturity. No such
care at all will be needed with hardy birds, except in case of
some accident or previous neglect. All they need is to have
their hopper properly supplied, and they will bring up their own
young ones without troubling anybody.

Some young ones are slow to learn to peck for themselves,
though this is seldom the case. The difficulty is more often
found with birds fed by hand, which sometimes seem to have
little idea of even attempting to feed themselves, long after
others of the same age are doing so. Much help in inducing
birds to peck may be got from mixtures of smailer grain, such
as canary-seed, dari, rape, and hempseed. A handful or two
of such mixtures, thrown down twice a day, will often induce
the young ones to peck, whilst it also helps old birds which
are nursing to give a good evening meal to their young ones.
When this is not sufficient, a little starvation should be tried :
taking care, however, that the young bird is not kept more
than twenty-four hours without food,

While the young squeakers remain in the nest-pan the
sawdust should be renewed from time to time, taking care to
perform this, like all operations, so as not to startle the old
birds. With this attention, and an examination every night
after the first day or two to see if they want any artificial
cramming, they should get on. Especially look after the
smaller bird of the two, since if one gets much behind the other
it is apt to be more and more elbowed aside, “ the survival of
the fittest” being a rigorous law in the pigeon world. By
judiciously cramming the smaller bird only of a pair, in addition
to what it gets from the parents, it may often be brought up to
the originally finer one, and both thus saved. Under no cir-
cumstances, however, must hard grain be given till the young

44 ‘HE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

can petk for themselves : they cannot digest it; and the soaking
is also needed to supply them with liquid before they can drink
properly.

In the autumn early-hatched pigeons moult. A partial
moult begins as early even as April or May; but about Sep-
tember the quills in the wings and tail are renewed, and the
moult of the whole plumage is gradually completed. It is to
be specially noticed, that at this first moult the original flight-
feathers (called by naturalists the primary quills) of the wing,
and which are ten in number, are replaced by others consider-
ably longer and broader. The tail feathers and secondary quills
also are usually replaced by larger ones, but the difference is
not so marked as in the primaries, which are therefore taken as
the usual test whether a bird is hatched the same year or the
one before. If any of the nestling feathers are left it is pre-
sumed the bird is a young one, the difference being very
marked; and as many breeds “make up” a great deal with
age, this matter is of much importance—perhaps most so in
Carriers, Barbs, and Antwerps. The flight feathers being
dropped gradually, it has been proposed that every. pigeon
intended to be shown as a young one should have one of the
new flights stamped whilst some of the old ones are left, which
would then stamp it as genuine through that winter’s show
season, and tend to prevent the frauds which a few unscrupu-
lous exhibitors sometimes perpetrate. As a rule, the plan would
do so; but there are some late-hatched birds which only moult
one or two flights, or even none at all, the year they are
hatched. Such will not moult any more till the following
autumn ; and if they are of a young-looking sort, which some
Carriers are, it has been objected that they might be stamped
as young ones the second year, the flights after one moult
never increasing in size. Whether owing to this danger or
not, the plan has never come into use for public exhibitions,
though employed by several private societies. Such exceptions

PEDIGREE BREEDING. 45

to the general rule are, however, few, and confined to late-
hatched birds; and an amateur may generally conclude, if a
bird offered him has in the wing some of the smaller nestling
flights along with larger ones of the new growth, that it has
been hatched the same year.

CHAPTER IV.
PEDIGREE BREEDING.

Ir is impossible to produce pigeons (or anything else) which
shall year after year come up fairly to exhibition standard,
without understanding something of the meaning of the words
at the head of this chapter. The reader must, for instance,
purchase some stock to commence with. He will constantly
see advertised birds from some one’s “ prize strain,” what is
meant being that they are the produce of certain other birds
vhich have won certain prizés at certain shows. Now the
juestion is, what these birds are really worth to him; and it
nay be that they are worth no more than common price, while,
om the other hand, they may be worth a great deal. The
immediate reason for such difference in value is, of course, that
one set of birds are likely to produce the desired class of young
ones, while the others are not; and this every one can under-
stand. But since the comparatively worthless and the valuable
birds may be apparently alike, and also bred from parents of
equal merit (we are putting an extreme case, for there is
generally more apparent difference than is here described ; still,
the case supposed does occur), the question is, why it is so.

The first reply that will probably be elicited by inquiry
respecting this important point is that the valuable birds—
valuable in spite of their comparatively plain character, perhaps
—are from “ Mr. A’s strain” or loft. Observe, not a “ prize”

46 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEUPEk.

strain vaguely, in the sense that they are from some birds
which have won prizes, but of Mr. A’s strain ; and we italicise
this, because it is the working out of what it means that is
the clue to the matter. There is no charm, of course, in Mr.
A’s name merely; it is something he has done that has made
his strain thus valuable. What is it? For what one man has
done, another may do.

What is known as the “family likeness” of children to
their parents is familiar to all, as is also the fact that in
degree it differs very widely in different individuals. Some-
times it cannot be traced to any one feature particularly, but
is due to an undefinable general impression the whole person
somehow produces; in others, some strongly marked feature
can be clearly discerned ; and in yet others no visible likeness
can be traced at all, while there may or may not be evident
mental and moral resemblances. If, for instance, the father
has a well-marked Roman nose, it is likely this feature may be
recognised in at least a portion of his offspring; while it possibly
fails in others whose faces, nevertheless, show other traces of
his lineaments, complicated perhaps -with those of the mother
or of other memberg of either parent family. Again, in
numerous cases where no resemblance at all can be traced to
the parents, there is often a very startling one to the grand-
parents, or even to ancestors still further back. Hence it
appears that features have a more or less strong tendency to be
transmitted to posterity, even beyond the next immediate step
in the pedigree; and peculiar or extraordinary features, such
as the possession of six digits at each extremity, instead of five,
are often thus transmitted very strongly. Many facts of this
class, which we need not specify in detail, have well established
the general law that every feature in every animal has some
tendency to repeat itself, and would do so more or less, were
that tendency not counteracted by others of a different
character, Thus, if one of two parents has black hair and the

NATURE OF PEDIGREE BREEDING. 47

other brown, the black-haired parent has a tendency to transmit
that feature to the offspring, but it is counteracted or modified
by the tendency of the other to transmit brown, and by the
colour of the hair in ancestors further back.

Now the kind of breeding which is necessary to form a
really valuable strain, consists in throwing the effect of all
these tendencies into one selected direction ; or, in other words,
causing the tendencies of great-grandparents and grandparents,
as well as of the immediate parents, to combine and unite
towards the desired object. Let us go to the pigeon-loft for an
illustration. It is by no means uncommon to find a Fantail,
through some remains or cross of a strain now nearly extinct,
with a crest or peak at the back of the head. Strictly speaking,
this is inherited from some ancestor; but for present purposes,
we may consider it an accidental variation: any way, it
occurs only rarely among common Fantails. If only one such
bird be bred from, say a hen, it is probable one or two of her
progeny will exhibit the crest, the greater part reverting, or

. “throwing back,” to the usual type in the loft. If a cock can
be found—also of the ordinary strain—showing the same
peculiarity, the number of progeny exhibiting it will be some-
what increased ; but still, supposing the taint or trace in the
strain to be very minute, they will probably not be many, and
such plain-headed birds as are produced will not show much
tendency to produce crests.* But now suppose we can select
from this first progeny a pair both crested, and breed them
together. We shall now find the tendency vastly increased,
so much so that very likely a good half of the next progeny
may be crested, and even those which are not will show some
marked tendency to produce crested birds. If we breed from
this third generation again, still selecting crested birds, the

* We are speaking of general average results; occasionally a bird will
manifest a power of reproducing his or her own characteristics of an extra
ordinary degree, but this will not affect our explanation,

48 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

tendency to produce crests will have been increased enormously ;
and in a generation or two more it will be so strong that a
bird not crested will be as rare as a crested one originally was,

We have now what is called a “strain,” so far as regards
our one point of crest or peak. We have accumulated into one
direction—that of breeding a crest—the transmitting powers of
many successive generations, and we have thus produced a race
of birds which we can depend upon with almost absolute cer-
tainty to produce none but crested birds. Suppose, now, that
we have been able to keep alive for ten years (not at all an
impossible thing with pigeons) the pair of birds with which we
started in the series of operations above described. It will be
readily understood that they may be almost exactly similar in
appearance to a pair of birds we might select from the tenth
generation of the progeny; the closest ocular examination
might fail to detect any important difference ; and yet it will.
now be clearly seen that the difference in breeding value would
be tremendous. The one pair have, or had—for most pigeons
would be past actual breeding at the age supposed—scarcely
any tendency to produce crests ; the other pair can be depended
on to do so as regards nearly every bird. One pair would
represent to a breeder nothing save some foundation on which
he might, with care and patience, found a structure hereafter ;
the other represents work done, qualities fixed, and a “ strain”
which only demands ordinary care to preserve in perfection.

So far the matter is simple enough ; and breeding would be
equally simple did every race possess only one point to breed
for. But it will readily occur to most that this is not the case;
that each race is bred for several, if not for many points; and
here the difficulty begins. It is, for one thing, impossible to
say when the tendency to revert to past faults is—for practical
purposes—lost. As to being absolutely lost, it never is ; a point
being known to crop up unexpectedly after twenty generations
of freedom from it. Hence it will appear that every time a

REASONS OF ILL SUCCESS. 49

bird is purchased to cross with, it may introduce tendencies
towards features which are not wanted; and not only such as
itself possesses, but others which, not appearing in it, are not
known. If we consider, therefore, the average mode of pro-
ceeding of a young fancier, we shall be at no loss to account for
his ill success. As each fault becomes apparent to him, he is
apt to purchase a bird to correct it, as he thinks. Each time he
docs this, some influence really is exerted upon the fault, and if
it were followed up, the ground might be secured ; but only
little is gained by each early step, and by going off after some
other poiat as soon as the first appears right, he drops the next
link in the succession, and nearly all is lost again. But now
let him consider this fact: that while there are many faults he
knows-too well may appear in his pigeons at any time, there are.
other points he never expects to find, and which, if he did find,
he would at once consider proof that he had been swindled into
purchasing absolutely impure blood. Suppose he breeds Barbs,
He knows too well that he may get at any time a narrow or
wedge-shaped skull, or a great deficiency in eye-wattle, or a
nearly straight face. But does he expect ever to see a frill on
the breast? No; though this point is found in many other
pigeons. Ora crest? No again; though there is much reason
to believe that the Barb was actually bred at one time as a
crested bird. Whence the difference 4

The answer is again obvious if we reflect. A. clean breast
and a plain head have been regarded. for generations as essential
features of a Barb, and birds which possessed frills and crests
have never been bred from. So far as regards these points, not
one single link in the chain of succession has been dropped, and
thus every generation has added to the stability of the breed.
‘The result is that those points are sure; and we learn from it
that uncertainty is not a necessary thing as regards any point.
It can be overcome, and to overcome it is the work of every
fancier who founds a “strain,” and whose birds acquire any

5

50 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

special value. We also learn, again, that the one necessary
point in forming such a strain is never to lose a link in the
process, or ground already gained; but to keep definite objects
steadily in view.

This, however, brings us back again to the difficulties of
such a course ; and, first of all, it is impossible to follow out
such a methodical system without very considerable in-breeding.
It is always found, practically, that a man who is constantly
buying other birds to cross with rarely succeeds. We have
seen the reason why: he is constantly introducing into his
strain tendencies which, being unknown to him, he can take no
account of, and which crop up in the most unexpected manner.
Therefore, successful breeders always depend mainly upon suc-
cessive generations of their own stock. But unfortunately this
method has its limits, which cannot be passed over, on account
of the physical deterioration or weakness which results from too
close breeding of the same strain. This may be carried very
much further, with care, than some authorities are disposed to

allow, without any _perceptible injury ; but sooner or later,

symptoms occur which warn the breeder of the necessity for
“ fresh blood.” It may be he finds perceptible loss of fertility, or
his young ones often fail to break the shell, or there is a marked
increase of liability to disease, or some other evident falling off
in vigour or in size. Hence an occasional cross from at least
another family becomes a necessity ; and this at once brings us
back again to the old difficulty of developing not one only, but all
the various points which the breeder has in view. The problem
may be briefly summed up as follows: We have seen that
any given point can be bred with a certainty few beginners
have any idea of; but that the means to this end are the con-
centration towards it of all the transmitting powers of many
successive generations, and never losing any step once gained by
going off in some other direction or after some other point, in-
asmuch as any such step must undo more or less of what had

THE WAY TO COMMENCE. 51

been done. The difficulty is, first, to pursue such a course with
out extreme and injurious in-breeding; and secondly, to har.
monise it with the claims of the several points or properties
which are so very seldom found together in perfection.

The very first step, then, is to consider the various points
required in special relation to the difficulty of obtaining them.
Directly this is done, it will be found that some points are
obtained much easier than others, a single cross often being
enough to impart one property, while generations of careful
breeding may be necessary to secure others. Where -this
seems not so, and the difficulties are more equal, it will still
be found that some points are of more value than others, though
we suspect that value is determined by difficulty in most cases.
This comparative appreciation being arrived at, then, any
reader who has followed us will see the conclusion to be arrived
at. Picking out one or two of the most difficult points, fasten
attention on that one, or at most two, and keep it there. In
selecting the first stock, and ever after, pay such heed. as
possible to other points, but never lose sight of these.

Again, at the outset, at least two, and where possible more
pairs should be provided, in order to avoid any necessity for’
a cross until the new strain is thoroughly established. This is
all-important to any one who means to have a strain of his own.
We have already seen that there is a tendency in all animals to
throw back to long-lost characters; but Mr. Darwin has clearly
shown that this tendency is tremendously developed by the
mere act of crossing, whenever the cross is real and thorough.
Thus it is that when two distinct races of non-sitting fowls are
crossed the progeny often recover the long-lost faculty of in-
cubation, and more or less of the colour of the wild jungle-

fowl. Suppose, therefore, A has been breeding Carriers with
chief reference to size of beak-wattle, whilst B has been
attending more particularly to the form of that point, and to
the development of eye-wattle. A finds his birds have plenty

62 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER,

of beak-wattle, but very irregularly put on, and with little
“eye,” and resorts to B, whose birds show great beauty and
regularity of eye, though they have much less beak-wattle than
he approves of. He obviously runs two risks. If B can spare
him a bird large enough in wattle to “pass” with him, it
may be that one is the only one B has anything near the mark;
and if so, he loses more than the bird itself appears to justify,
since the progeny will tend more to the average size bred in
B’s loft. And, secondly, because the two have pursued different
lines and sought different points, the mere fact of crossing
such distinct strains may of itself develop the old and almost
forgotten faults of either or both.

From this we see why a cross should not only be good in
itself and “well bred,” but the produce of a similar course of
breeding to the birds which are crossed ; and the only sure way
of securing this is for the same individual to have bred both,
when he can tell the latent tendencies of each. Two fanciers,
who have an acquaintance of years, and know each other’s lofts
thoroughly, can, for the same reason, often be of the greatest
assistance to each other, especially if their opinions pretty
nearly correspond. Help of this kind would be more common
but for a foolish jealousy which is too frequently found, and
which leads each to expect all the benefit from a proposed
exchange. In all such matters there must be give as well as
take ; and if this were clearly recognised much more mutual
help might be found than is at present common. Meantime, if
three separate families, say, can be started from three related
hens, the chief advantages of a cross can be enjoyed for many
years without its evils, by keeping a record of pedigrees in any
effectual manner that may be preferred. Where another person
must either breed together a brother and sister or obtain a
cross, a breeder thus provided can take a bird from one of his
other families, which in the course of breeding has reached
about the same point by the same means, and will thus produce

HINTS ON BREEDING. 53

similar effects. He thus keeps his strain in his own hands,
and can carry out all those further details of selection which
have constantly to be attended to if any high standard of
excellence is to be maintained.

With the produce of the first birds selected as above de-
scribed, the first year’s breeding comes to an end. As that
produce comes to maturity, or approaches it (different varieties
are very diverse in this respect, some taking several years to
mature, while others are as good the first season as ever after),
they will, of course, be carefully scanned. If the proportion ot
satisfactory birds is good, it shows that the pair have not only
been of good breeding themselves, but have “hit” well to-
gether, in which case both should be kept, unless too old for
further breeding. In selecting the progeny, that selection
should be first made for the same one or two points before
decided upon as hardest to produce. Meat to these, but never
superseding them, let selection be made for other points in
order of their presumed value, and paying little heed, if neces.
sary, to such points as can be gained at any time by a single
cross. If one or two birds should happily appear which not
only show the first one or two points in degree approaching
perfection, but the other desired points also, let them be
treasured accordingly. Some people are, when thus fortunate,
tempted to sell by a good price ; but this is short-sighted policy.
At such a stage in the history of a strain, the owner cannot
afford to sell such birds ; later on, and when he has the reason-
able prospect of producing more of the same sort, he may, but
he should not now. Having selected, then, the best of his first
year’s produce, there are several ways of proceeding. (1.) They
may be matched for next year with their own parents; and
if these are of good quality and suit them fairly, this is a
very good plan. (2.) They may be matched with adult
birds other than their own parents; and if these also have
bred really well, and are somewhat related in blood, this plan

b4 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER,

may answer ; but, for reasons already seen, it is not advisable
when the other pair is a total cross. (3.) They may be matched
inter se, brother to sister; and this answers well when there
has been no previous inter-breeding, (4.) They may be matched
with young birds from another pair. If there are good birds
enough, and there is room in the loft, we advise all these plans
being pursued, by which all degrees of temper in the strains
first started with may be secured, and enough crosses obtained
at once to last for many years. But in all cases, whenever
any pair of birds has been found to breed extraordinarily well,
it is best to keep them together as long as they will breed.
The birds themselves will thus get thoroughly settled together,
which facilitates successful rearing of young.

The second year's breeding should show some advance, not,
perhaps, in the actual development of the most desired points in
any one bird, but rather in the proportion of birds which exhibit
a satisfactory development of them. It cannot be too well
remembered that this—the proportion of good birds—is the reai
test of progress in a strain. What is called “good blood” is
now so widely distributed by sales from various lofts, that ex-
traordinary birds sometimes occur by what can—so far as any
human skill or method is concerned—only be called chance.
We have already seen that such are of little comparative value
in reproducing their like; but any perceptible increase in the
proportion which show fair quality, represents real ground
gained and real work done, and there is the greater probability
that birds showing more than fair quality will appear. Further
advance still will be made the third year; indeed, it will now
be found that (in all but one or two of the most “high-class”
varieties) the one or two cardinal points have become, to a very
fair extent, certain in the new strain. And now mark the
result, The proportion of birds which show these will be now so
large, that out of them there will be little difficulty in selecting
for breeding those fairly porfect in the neat most important points.

NECESSITY OF PATIENCE. 55

And so the proccss will go on; but we need not follow it
further. The principle of action, it will readily be seen, is as
simple as can be. Every variety has some point or points
which above all others demand the longest breeding and
patience to acquire ; and on these should attention first be fixed,
and kept there, gradually giving attention to others, not by
turns, but just as fast as (and no faster than) the increased
number of birds good in the first points, and therefore so far
admissible to breed from, enables selection to be made for the
next point desired. In this way every year will show a sure
and steady increase in quality ; and, after the first two years,
that improvement will be so rapid as to be almost beyond belief; ~
provided, of course—what is clearly implied—that the best
birds, from the breeding point of view, are never sold, but
kept for the loft. A man cannot reasonably expect to make
any marked progress, who constantly sells what really represents
all the ground he has gained. On the average, however, this
proviso will not be found to sacrifice much in the shape of
sales; since it will often be the case that the most valuable in-
dividuals for sale or exhibition are not those most valuable for
breeding. For the latter purpose we have seen that we must
choose, especially in the earlier stages, the most marked excel-
lence in one or two points; but for show (and therefore for sale)
the best are usually those which exhibit the best average of
all points, though they be somewhat inferior in those specially
sought. Later on the best for breeding will be also the best for
show purposes ; but by that time the amateur will be enabled
both to breed and sell also. Many are, however, too impatient
thus to wait for results. For such impatience there is no
remedy ; those who do not patiently wait and work in the
manner described, will assuredly never create a strain, or learn
what skilful breeding really means.

When the most cardinal points are thoroughly secured, a
little may occasionally be risked. Here, indeed, is one great

56 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPLR.

advantage of such a course of breeding as thaw aescribed. ‘Those
cardinal points become at last so fiwed, as it were, that a bird
a few degrees worse in them may occasionally be bred from for
the sake of other points which may be wanted. The nature of
such a proceeding must, however, be clearly understood. It is
simply that the point so fixed is probably only accidentally de-
ficient in the chosen bird, which is therefore trusted to “ throw
back,” or revert to it. Obviously such a step should only be
taken with great caution, and never repeated through two
following generations ; neither should a bird really bad in such
a point be ever employed. But a bird not quite so good in the
first points may be occasionally risked, though the fact that it
is a risk should be clearly understood.

It may sometimes help to decide such doubtful questions as
to the propriety of any given procedure, if we bear in mind that
pigeons, on the average, show a decided tendency to revert to
the points of the third previous generation, or their grana-
parents, We have found what seemed to us evidence that some
other animals show asimilar tendency to revert to the fourth
generation, or great-grandparents; while the majority, per-
haps, follow the immediate parents. This subject is interesting,
and at present rather obscure; but many practical breeders
have noted the tendency in pigeons here described, and the
knowledge of it may occasionally be of considerable value in
determining a match.

One thing more has to be said. “After all, and with every
desire to avoid it, crosses are sometimes necessary. When this
is felt, care must obviously be taken to avoid too “sudden” a
change of blood, which always brings with it more or less ten-
dency to—the breeder never knows exactly what. If, therefore,
he can obtain a suitable pigeon from a loft which has a good
fraction of the same blood as his own, that will be best. When
he cannot, he should pair a selected bird with a good one of his
own, the furthest removed his loft can furnish from the family

EXAMPLE OF OLD FANCIERS. 57

it is desired to refresh. Then the best bird of the produce should
be selected for the actual cross. By this means much risk is
avoided, and much time may eventually be saved, since it may
take years to finally get rid of the results of any rash experi-
ment which turns out badly.

The method of breeding which has been here described has
been more or less followed by all practical fanciers, though it is
doubtful if the reasons for it have been clearly understood. One
quotation will suffice to show this, from Eaton’s well-known re-
production of the “ Treatise on the Almond Tumbler.” This bird,
as is well known, is bred for five main points or “ properties,”
viz., head, beak, eye, shape or carriage, and feather ; without
all which no pigeon is perfect. But observe what is said in the
Treatise :—“ There are young fanciers who are over-covetous,
who go for all the fwe properties at once ; they hawe their reward
by getting nothing.” The reason is not explained; but the
fact had been discovered by repeated experience, and such a
statement of it may fitly close our own remarks upon the
subject. We trust these may have made clear what an amount
of intellectual gratification is to be derived—quite apart from
any mere success at exhibitions—in watching the steady pro-
gress of a strain towards a determined point; and how the
individuality of a breeder must ultimately become stamped
upon it, so that Ais birds, or other animals, can, by intangible
but perceptible features, be distinguished from those of others,
and become known as his own. The strange power man
possesses of thus moulding other animals to his will, is a mys-
terious approach, though in lower degree, to the divine opera-
tion shown in the creation of species; and a similar, though
lower example of the power of intelligent Will to modify, not
only the inorganic world, but actual forms of life,

58 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

CHAPTER V.

EXHIBITING PIGEONS.

It is almost impossible to make any real mark in the pigeon-
fancy without exhibiting in some form; by which we mean
simply producing one’s own birds in company with others of
the same variety for comparison, and exposing them to the
more or less free comments of other fanciers. Birds of a very
respectable class may of course be produced without this ; but
birds of the front rank—such as are fit to hold their own in
good competition—scarcely ever, since without actual compari-
son the amateur can never know how his own stock really
stands. It may be asked, Will it not answer the same purpose
to carefully compare other birds when thus shown, and then
judge how they rank towards his own? Certainly not. Did
ever any mother think her own child ugly? and she is not
more blind to its defects than a fancier to those of the birds he
has bred. He cannot but exaggerate in his own mind their
good properties and tone down their bad ones; and so much is
this the case that, even if his birds at a show are far apart
from others, it is almost impossible for him to judge them
fairly. No; he should see them side by side with others, and
thus only can he learn how they really stand, till years of
experience have put him quite beyond our teaching. At most
shows there is sufficient good feeling and freemasonry to allow
of any birds being thus taken out of their pens and compared
with others—of course, under proper supervision—and in this
way much may be learnt; whilst personal conversation will
bring to light points the owner never dreamt of.

The money consideration is also important to most people.
Good birds can only be procured at good prices—rather large
prices in some varieties—and unless some can be sold also at

EXHIBITION A MEANS OF SALE, 59

good prices it is impossible breeding them can pay. Shows are
the greatest help towards selling really good birds; and a really
first-class price now and then is a wonderful help towards
expenses. We give the following as prices which have been
realised during the last few years within our own personal
knowledge; and it is worth noting that in most cases they
were reaped by genuine private breeders, and not by the
leviathan dealers who are sometimes supposed to monopolise
this sort of thing. Carriers, £100 (twice) and £60; Pouters,
£55, £50, £48; Barbs, £30, £25; Dragoons, £25 (three
times) and £20; English Owls, £50, £40; Turbits, £35, £30 ;
Antwerps, £50 (twice) and £35. These birds were of course
the pick of their several varieties, and in some of the cases the
above prices were given by dealers for their possession. Fair
prices would be reaped much oftener by young breeders did
they have the modesty to confine themselves to one sort, or at
most to two, the second of which was either useful as a
“feeder” for the other, very similar to it in character, or very
dissimilar. Such a limited field of effort may be mastered, as
has frequently been done; and a second variety, selected as
above, will not spoil the inexperienced eye, as any other choice
is almost sure to do.

The exhibition so necessary need not necessarily, however,
be at public shows or for money prizes. In nearly every large
town there is now a respectable Columbarian Society, holding
monthly meetings; and at these meetings the amateur can
exhibit his birds without the fatigue of long journeys and long
confinement, taking them himself, and returning them after a
very few hours to their loft, thus getting their merits canvassed
in the freest and most friendly way possible. This will answer
every necessary purpose if the birds shown by other members
of the society are good enough—a fact that can readily be
ascertained. Really first-rate quality can be sold by this
kind of exhibition as readily as by the other; and there are

60 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

certain well-known breeders who are scarcely ever known to
exhibit in any other way.

Exhibition at public shows is a severe tax on most birds,
and they should not be too often exposed to it. Hens of many
varieties are speedily rendered useless by over-showing; and
well-known show hens should therefore only be purchased
with extreme caution for the breeding-loft. The evil is made
worse very often by neglect of proper attention. For instance,
heavily-wattled breeds need a trough, which must be inside the
pens, since they can neither see to feed properly from the floor
of a pen or get their heads through to the outside ; the latter
disability also applies to water. These matters are, however,
improving, and it is not our purpose in this work to give any
details as to the management of shows.

Pigeons are sent either in boxes or baskets. For a single
bird or a pair, any box, not less than six inches deep and of a
suitable size—such as grocers have by scores—will do, boring a
few half-inch holes round near the top. If such a box is for a
pair of birds a thin partition must be fixed in, not square, but
slanting, as at AB in Fig. 18, so as to fit the general shape of the
bird and keep it from
turning round. For a
larger number of birds
e Fig. 19 is the best box

psa with which we are
B acquainted, and is the

result of many trials.
The wood for the out-
Fig. 18. side is made as thin

as consistent with strength, the upper edges being scolloped
out for ventilation. The partitions and inner lids are not
only very thin-—.8; of an inch is sufficient-——but are pierced
with large holes as thickly as can be arranged. This plan pro-
motes ventilation, as well as saving weight. Near the bottom

BOXES FOR TRANSIT OF PIGEONS. 61

of the large end of each division of the box two or three
holes are bored to admit air, which passes out through the
perforated lids and scolloped outer edges. In the box here
figured the inlet holes were made in the bottom; but this
plan is objectionable for two reasons—(1) It necessitates

ue i "°

Fig. 18.

straw at the bottom, anything else shaking through the holes ;
and (2) whenever the box is set down, unless raised from the
floor by knobs or feet as shown in the figure, all inlet of air is
stopped altogether, except through the top, and consequently
the birds are often taken out reeking with perspiration. The
use of feet to some extent avoids this, but not altogether, and
weakens a thin box considerably ; while by making the holes
near the bottom, but in the sides, all difficulty is avoided. The

62 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER,

box here figured was smaller than usual, being made for six
Almond Tumblers ; it measured 20 x 9 x 74 inches, and weighed
only 4 lbs. 9ozs. The cover is kept down by a buckled strap,
which must be fixed lengthwise to give any comfort in carrying.
For larger birds, such as Carriers, a different arrangement
would be better if the box is meant for hand-carriage to society
meetings, width being more awkward in carrying than length.
Instead of putting six birds across, we should prefer to arrange
a Carrier-box for four birds, arranged lengthwise as two pairs.
For railway use width is of less importance, and the plan
figured is simplest; but it should not be forgotten to adjust
the height so that the box will go under the seat.

A Scotch friend of ours strongly advises home-made papier-
mache for boxes, as both stronger and lighter than wood.
Those who wish to try this mode of manufacture should
dissolve one ounce of Scotch glue in twenty ounces of boiling
water, and the last thing before using stir into it, a little at a
time, tweuty grains of chrome alum dissolved in ten ounces
more of hot water. This will entirely prevent the glue being
ever affected by damp, and keep the whole manufacture hard
and stiff; but no more must be prepared than can be used ata
time; as when once cold and stiff, no amount of heat will
re-dissolve glue to which chrome alum has been thus added.
Sufficient sheets of any waste paper can be glued together
with glue thus prepared, and left to dry in a press.

As a rule, baskets are however most used, and are on the
whole preferred by the most experienced exhibitors. They are
light, strong, and afford good ventilation. The square-made,
oblong butter-baskets do excellently, fitted up as follows. Line
the sides only with unbleached linen or calico. Across the
middle, a very little below the tops of the two longest sides, fix
a strip of wood about three-quarters of an inch wide and half an
inch deep, and stitch to the inside of the sides one straight parti-
tion of the linen. Stitch other partitions of the same material

BASKETS FOR PIGEONS. 63

diagonally (all pigeon compartments should be wider at the
shoulders of the birds), according to the size; for our illustration
we have taken a small basket, and only made one diagonal in
each half, the whole thus taking four birds. Now make two
open flap doors, either of light wire or wicker, just large

Fig. 20.—PIGioN BASKET.

enough to lie, their inner sides on the middle piece of wood, and
their outer corners on small supports fixed in the corners of the
basket. Drive in small staples over the inner wire or piece of
wicker into the wood, and these will form hinges. A better
basket than this cannot be had, such open flaps having not only
the advantage of allowing freer ventilation than more elaborate
baskets afford, but making it impossible for any bird to be over.
looked, as very often occurs when close lids are employed. The
same plan may be applied to a basket of any size. Bare wicker

64 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

is apt to catch and ruffle the plumage, as well as giving too
much draught in bad weather. Fantail cells should be “shaped”
very carefully ; and even then it is almost impossible to get
this variety to a show without some damage to the tails.

A basket should never be lined at the top or bottom—only
at the sides, to keep off wind. For the bottom, we infinitely
prefer tan to anything else: it is clean, very conducive to health,
a natural antiseptic, and keeps the birds in good condition.
Where they can be got easily, hops are also good for the same
reasons. Next we prefer cut straw ; long straw makes pigeons
dirty on a long journey.

White pigeons sometimes require to be washed. In that
case use soft water at 90°, with good curd soap, and a very little
blue—just a shade. Use the soap freely, and wash well ; after
that, the great secret is to wash every particle of soap completely
out, and to dry by hand. That is, hold the bird, turning it
about, a moderate distance from the fire till it is nearly or quite
dry. Light Silvers often look dirty, but cannot be washed so
well, the process taking off the peculiar powder called “bloom,”
of which pigeons have so much, and thereby spoiling the effect
completely. ;

On the other hand, the removal of that same bloom will
considerably. improve a poor bluish-black. Faulty colours are
oiled by some people, but such tricks are so evident as to be
more disgusting than anything else. The best that can be done
for any faulty-coloured bird capable of being improved by more
richness is done as follows, which is not considered unfair.
Work the palms of the hands violently together (or adopt any
other mode of exercise) till they perspire pretty freely: then
take your bird and stroke it persistently with the moist hand.
In this way the bloom is removed, and an imperceptible “ polish”
given, which in some cases is very remarkable for such simple
means, A judge who gives a prize to an “oiled bird” never
ought to be asked to judge again. Perhaps some little exception

HINTS ON EXHIBITING. 65

may be allowed as regards the heads of some black pigeons, such
as Barbs, which often have to be washed, and would then look
very dry if shown in such a state, “When such washing is neces-
sary, therefore, some people think it no wrong to put a small par-
ticle of butter on the still wet head, and wipe thoroughly in with
a damp towel. This process restores the brilliancy of look, but
requires great care not to overdo it; the secret is to put the
butter on while wei, and then with the wet towel endeavour,
as it were, to get it all off again. It is perhaps fortunate that
the process is only capable of being successfully applied to the
fine short feathers of the head, and we have seen it overdone
even there. Strictly speaking, it is an artificial improvement ;
but it is generally done by people who know how, and is at
all events a comparatively innocent kind of thing. We hold,
however, that if any grease be apparent, even on the head, it
ought to disqualify.

Pigeons shown in pairs should be separated a few days—
and only a few, say two or three—before the show. When
they come together in the show-pen, their mutual gratification
will cause them both to show to the best advantage they are
capable of.

Never return a pigeon to the loft after exhibition till you
__ have given it a most careful scrutiny. If the crop is empty and
it seems “done up,” see that it both eats and drinks, and only
moderately at first. If anything seems the matter, keep it
apart till you see what tt is. Attention to these simple
instructions may save many birds and much trouble.

66 TIE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER

CHAPTER VL

CARRIERS.

Tue Carrier seems to have been the most estecmed pigeon in
Moore’s time, and it is, upon the whole, the most popular pigeon
still; twice the amount of money, at least, being annually spent
upon this bird that is expended on any other variety. From
an anecdote quoted by the old writer just named, it would
appear that the original progenitors of the breed really obtained
the name by carrying messages; and when we consider that
Moore only describes the eye-watitle as the size of a shilling, and
the beak as an inch and a half in length, there is nothing in-
credible in this. It is plain, in fact, that Carrier, Horseman,
and Dragoon were allied names given to closely allied races,
and that the whole were bred up from one original stock. Some
Dragoons of the exaggerated London type prevalent some time
ago would closely resemble Moore’s description of a Carrier, and
that this pigeon is a fair homing or message-bearing bird is
well known. In the process of development the Horseman
has naturally disappeared, being of that medium type fanciers
never care much about.

Still it is remarkable how little, as regards head-points (the
principal properties of a Carrier), we can improve upon Moore’s
description, which is still, of all we have seen, the best adapted
for explaining to a novice what is desired. It must first be
explained generally that the Carrier is a long-headed pigeon,
having the cere round the eye developed into a broad circular
surface of whitish naked substance, called by Moore the “ eye,”
and by modern fanciers the eye-watile. The warty substance
visible on the beak above the nostrils in all pigeons is also
enormously developed into a large, whitish, cauliflower-looking
substance, called the wattle, or beak-wattle. Moore then

BLUE CARRIER,

CARRIER PROVERTIES, 69

describes the Carrier as having twelve points, or “ properties,”
viz. :—

1. Three in the beak ;

2. Three in the [beak] wattle;

8. Three in the head ;

4. Three in the eye [wattle] ;

which are further particularised as follows :—

1. The properties of the beak are to be (a) long, (b) straight,
and (c) thick.

2, The wattle ought to be (a) broad across the beak, (6) short
from the head towards the apex, and (c) tilting forward from
the head.

3. The properties of the head are (a) its length, (6) its
narrowness, and (c) its flatness.

4, The eye (or eye-wattle) ought to be (a) broad, (6) round,
and (c) of an equal thickness. To these, Moore remarks, “some
add the distance,” or space between the hinder part of the wattle
and front edge of the eye-wattle ; but as this disappears with
age when the development is large he will not allow it to bea
property. On this point see our remarks further on.

The length of beak is now measured from the point
to the centre of the eye itself, as the only certain method ; and
Moore’s length hag been increased to two inches, or even
occasionally more, though an eighth less is very good if the
head be well proportioned. Formerly the length was often taken
from the nearest corner of the eye-lid; but as some eye-lids are
much wider across than others, this method gave some birds
considerable advantage, without any really greater length of
“ face,” as it is called, and has been practically abandoned. It
is not difficult to procure birds that will breed mere length of
beak ; but it is difficult to procure length combined with the
other properties, and a good head and beak 12 in. measure are
infinitely to be preferred to a face over two inches which is
deficient in other points.

70 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

Straightness of beak is a rare point. The growth of the
peculiar substance termed the beak-wattle seems to have a
natural tendency to both shrivel up and curl the upper mandible,
so as to leave a space between the upper and lower. This fault
is increased in some birds by the neglect of the owners, or their
desire to boast of the length of the face. When pigeons are fod
from a hopper the upper mandible always has a tendency to
cvergrow, which is not the case when the food is pecked from
the ground ; and if Carriers are left to this tendency unchecked,
the result may be a two and.a quarter inch face. But such a
beak is worthless, being excessively curved, and tending ever
to get worse and worse. The beak should rather be trimmed
back occasionally to little more than the length of the lower
mandible, and keeping the lower edges as straight as possible,
and in this way the length lost is more than compensated by
the improved appearance and health of the bird. The last con-
sideration is very important. The mouth of every creature is
intended to be moist internally ; but when the upper mandible
becomes so curled as to leave a space between it and the lower,
au unnatural dryness of the mouth is produced, which not only
causes canker and other affections of the mouth or throat, but,
indirectly, other diseases. Young. birds which require it are
often manipulated while the mandibles are soft, to straighten
the beak ; but such “made” faces can almost always be detected,
and not much is gained by it, as it depresses the beak-wattle
just where convexity is most desired. In straightness of beak
Carriers have improved considerably of late years.

“The beak should also be thick, and blunt at the point, to
give the best effect. It is particularly esteemed if the lower
mandible be as thick as the upper. When all the points as here
described are fairly combined, we have the “box-beak,” so
much valued. Any strain that produces long, straightish,
and thick beaks ts of value; and it may probably be found far
easier to graft other desirable points ou (hese than to add

THE BEAK-WATTLE. 71

good beaks to a strain which wants them, however good
otherwise.

It may be noted here that a straight beak is not to be
confounded with a straight “face,” to be noticed presently. It
is also noteworthy, that while old fanciers preferred it black,
moderns prefer pale or flesh-colour.

The beak-wattle is perhaps, by many people, the most valued
point in a Carrier. The day has, however, passed when mere
size of wattle is worth everything, for birds can now be readily
found with any amount, owing to the long efforts of many
fanciers. Mere size is valueless without shape; and here,
perhaps, is the greatest change since Moore’s time. Taking his
first property, a wattle may be wide from side to side, but
if flat or hollow on top would be worth little, unless for
some particular cross (and very few crosses could do much
good with it). THis second point, that the wattle should be
rather’ short from front to back, still remains true. This
enables the bird to show a good beak in front of the wattle,
which adds to the apparent length of face and general “style”
of the bird, and is less likely to spoil the beak. A shortish
watile is also less liable to crowd the eye-wattle behind. The
third point is to be “ tilted,” by which Moore means that the
posterior end be arched well away from the eye, the two wattles
going off in two opposite, nearly similar, circular curves. This
remains one of the chief points in a good wattle. There are
various shapes admired by different fanciers, but they chiefly
resolve themselves into two types. One resembles an ordinary
peg-top, the steel peg standing for the point of the beak ;
the other more resembles a walnut, or even a sphere. But
the essential points in all are that the wattle be symmetrical,
with no great inequalities anywhere or any preponderance on
one side, and that it be rather convex in every direction, with
no flat, much less hollow, places. Our engraving of a Blue
Carrier will illustrate one type of wattle, and Fig. 21 approaches

72 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

the other, but has also some tendency to the peg-top shape. To
make symmetry complete, the wattle (technically called “ jew-
ing”) on the under mandible must so harmonise with the
portions which overhang the lower jaw from the upper, that
the upper and lower
halves of the beak-wattle
seem to balance each
other. In these respects
the head here shown is
a model.

We have seen very
good wattles of the
walnut type which came
very forward on the
beak. In some cases
this makes a bird look
uncommonly well, owing
to the wattle keeping
well away from the eye.
It has, however, two objections. The first is that its weight,
being so far forward, has a tendency to drag the point of the
beak down, which is called being “ down-faced;” whereas one
great beauty of a Carrier is to carry the beak horizontally,
which is being “straight-faced.” All very large wattles are
apt to cause this fault, by the way; but, of course, the more
the weight is forward the more it operates. The second evil
is that a forward wattle generally impairs the beak, as already
seen; and this fault makes such birds dangerous matches,
They can, in fact, only be safely used for birds which, with
plenty of wattle behind, are rather short in front, and have
massive, blunt-ended beaks.

We may remark also on the “distance” referred to by
Moore. As a Carrier ages its beak-wattle grows backwards,
but not forwards. It therefore approaches the eye-wattle ; and

Fig. 21.—HeEap or Carrier.

CUTTING WATTLES. . 93

if there was not at first a good “distance” between them, one
will obviously crowd up the other, and spoil the beauty of the
circular curves, which are replaced by a more or less straight line
at the junction. Hence this is a very important point to con-
sider, both in judging and selecting breeding stock ; and more
attention to it would do more than anything else to check the
abuse which has lately grown up in some quarters, and which
demands a few words, of cutting Carriers’ wattles.

Even in Moore’s time it seems the Carrier wattle was the
subject of fraud, cork being then squeezed underneath by
sharpers to increase the apparent size. The process now is the
exact opposite of this. The birds, having been bred for many
years for as much as possible, frequently now develop too much,
but of a bad shape; and hence some act upon the simple plan
of breeding for mere quantity, and then cwéting into the proper
shape. The operation is perhaps not so cruel as some may
imagine, the substance operated upon differing from flesh
materially ; but that very considerable pain is caused can
scarcely be doubted, independent of the fraud. It is usually
necessary for those who act thus to cut away a large quantity
behind in particular, to clear the eye-wattle; and even the
latter has often to be trimmed a great deal at the front edge for
the same reason, thus losing the circular shape so much admired.
Much indignation has not unnaturally been expressed that the
judges “do not disqualify” such birds; but the fact is that
absolute proof (which ought always to precede penal proceed-
ings) is very difficult. For some time, of course, the cut surface
is obvious as such ; but after a few months, when the cauliflower
surface Las re-grown, this test fails, A suspicious contour in
the region of the “distance” is a more certain and permanent
test; but even this is not infallible, for we have known a
remarkably honest-looking bird which, to our certain know-
ledge, had been “ cut” severely ; whilst we can recall others of
most suspicious appearance that. to the best of our belief,

74 THE PRACTICAL PIGRON KEEPER.

grounded on very freyucnt inspection from the nest-pan, hud
either nothing at all or very little done to them. While,
therefore, it cannot be doubted that judges should keep a
keen look-out, and often act with more stringency, it is quite
possible to do injustice in this respect; and we do not think the
practice will ever be put down in this manner.

A surer remedy for this and many kindred evils in other
varieties would be found, did judges attach more weight to a
proper balance or proportion of properties. The evil in question
has obviously arisen from attaching overmuch importance singly
to size of wattle. Now any property is good, with the other
properties ; but we hold that when it destroys other properties
it is no longer a merit. In this case, exaggerated beak-wattle
spoils the beak, causes down-face, makes a thick and coarse neck,
and is too often accompanied by a thick and coarse eye-watile.
All these are serious faults, which spoil the beauty of a Carrier,
and are contrary to every old tradition. It is easy enough
to get one point, such as beak-wattle, if others are allowed
to be overlooked for it ; but it is impossible to go beyond a
certain point with due attention to all. That other points have
been neglected in judging Carriers is notorious ; and in return-
ing to a more healthy standard will, we believe, be found the
true remedy for abuses of this kind.

The head needs little detail. It should be as long as possible
from back to front, as flat on top as possible, and as narrow
from eye to eye as can be got. In this latter respect, coarse
thick eye-wattles quite spoil an otherwise good head. We may
add that a very important point, not mentioned by Moore, is
parallelism of the head ; that is, the space between the back
edges of the eye-wattle should not be greater than between the
front edges.

Clever sharpers occasionally practise great cruelty on a fine
bird which may be too broad in the skull by cutting out a strip
of skin from the middle cf the head and sewing the two

THE EVE-wATTLE 75

edges together. This process has been detected on one occasion
by the thread used for the purpose being left in, through an over-
sight ; but it may generally be detected by the wnnatural draw-
ing together of the top edges of the two eye-wattles. We say
“unnatural,” because several types of eye-wattle naturally roll
over towards the middle of the skull, and must not be con-
founded with the appearance described, which shows that the
tops of the eye-wattles have been actually pulled over by the
stitches into a position unnaturally near each other.

We have lastly (as regards Moore’s scale) to consider the
eye-wattle. In his day this had attained the size of a shilling,
or nine-tenths of an inch ; but good birds are now often shown
which measure an inch and an eighth across, and an inch and
a quarter or more is not rare, taken alone, though rare enough
in conjunction with the other good points already described.
Fraud is sometimes employed to increase the apparent diameter
of wattle in exhibition birds, It will be found that the surface
can readily be increased for a few moments by spreading out the
cere with the fingers; and hence some unscrupulous persons
endeavour to make the temporary extension sufliciently perma-
ment by a wash of gum, which, when dried on the wattle, keeps
it stretched to the artificial dimensions. It is, however, a clumsy
proceeding, which can only deceive a culpably careless judge,
and can be detected in a moment by applying a moistened
handkerchief.

The wattle must also be round, by which is meant that the
eye itself should occupy the true centre of a nearly true circle,
This property is apt to fail in two ways. The first has always
been a difficulty, and consists in a strong tendency to fail behind
the eye, the wattle growing more to the front ; the top also tends
to grow heavier than the bottom. A bird that thus fails in the
posterior part.is termed “ pinch-eyed,” and not one-eighth of
the Carriers shown are free from some slight appearance of this
inequality. But the neglect of general harmonious proportion has

76 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

produced another fault of late years. There has not been room
for the immense wattles produced, and the eye-wattle cannot,
therefore, grow circular in many birds, but is much deeper from
top to bottom than it is in width from side to side: in fact, what
should be a circular curve in front becomes a near approach to
a straight line. This fault has become so common that many
judges as well as exhibitcrs condone it, and are satisfied if the
perpendicular oval thus produced has as much behind the eye as
in front. But we must contend that the standard thus set up
is a false one, which destroys all esthetic beauty in a Carrier,
and is yet another example of the evil of developing any one
property so as to impair others, or out of due proportion.
Lastly, the eye-wattle is to be as nearly as possible of equal
thickness all over. Obviously, as we want the head to be
narrow, this uniform thickness should not be great, or the
character of the head is destroyed; and this brings us to a
very important question in Carrier breeding. There are totally
different classes of eyes. The best is a thin type, but full of
small wrinkles, arranged nearly in concentric circles, like the
petals of a flower, and which, on this account, is termed by
some fanciers a “rose” eye. It occurs of different sizes, and of
slightly harder or softer texture; the former kind, when large,
standing up high above the skull, like pieces of thick cardboard ;
the latter having more tendency to roll inwards towards the
median line of the head. All eyes of this kind, however, are
of harder texture than those to be presently described, and are
therefore comparatively free from the “spouts” which are so
troublesome in the fleshy eyes. For the same reason, however,
it is very difficdt to get them very large without a falling-off
in beak-wattle, no bird appearing able to develop above a
certain total quantity of this more solid material, and any great
excess in either being, therefore, counterbalanced by deficiency
in the other. But we have seen many birds with an inch of
this kind of eye which had splendid beak-wattles; and as an

KINDS OF EYE-WATTLES, 77

inch is as much as there is room for to be truly circular, we
must consider this kind of eye to be the true Carrier type, and
the only one which preserves ali the acknowledged charac-
teristics of the bird. It is usually of a slight pinky or flesh
colour; and we have heard a judge object to this, but never
when he had any pretension to a practical knowledge of the
pigeon he was judging, the thinner and harder eyes being pre-
ferred by all Carrier breeders of whom we have ever asked a
question on the subject. On the other hand, this kind are
far more liable to be “ pinch-eyed” than those next to be
described. ,

This is what is known as a thick or “fleshy” wattle—a
kind that has greatly increased of late years. There can be
no doubt that this formation has sprung up from the long-
continued breeding for immense development, which has pro-
duced a more soft or spongy kind of the peculiar formation of
which wattle consists. This kind of eye is usually whiter than
the other, and has much less of lacing (or fine wrinkles) in it ;
it is also much less liable to grow “pinched.” For these
reasons such soft and fleshy wattles often appear exceedingly
attractive in young birds; indeed, prizes are generally given
to them the first season, since they alone usually have sufficient
development to contend in the show-pen. But as they get
older their beauty is almost always lost in various ways.
There is no “distance,” or not enough; so that as the beak-
wattle makes up, both eye and beak-wattles are crowded to-
gether ; and they grow at last so thick that we have measured
many birds which were over an inch and a half from outside
to outside of each eye. Some of these birds had been great
prize-takers, and the best of them had enormous beak-wattles
of excellent shape (though some of this had been got by
cutting); but such a width is, in our opinion, contrary to the
whole character of the bird. No doubt the eye-wattle had
rolled over the skull, so as to make the width of “feather”

78 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

between eye and eye very little; but the effect of the whole
head was thick and chubby, and so far quite contrary to the
Carrier type.

But there are other disadvantages of this kind of eye
wattles. They are a constant source of misery to the bird.
The wattle, being so thick and soft, as the bird gets old often
falls down more or less over the eye. This has to be cut off,
and the bird is then relieved for a time; but the wattle grows
so fast that the process has often to be repeated a second or
even a third time. Still more constantly, however, these
fleshy wattles form under the eye what are known as “ spouts,”
or, in other words, a groove or gutter, from which fluid con-
stantly flows. This is generally supposed to be caused by the
thick wattle pressing on the eye-ball, and thus causing irrita-
tion, the resulting fluid causing the spout; but we are inclined
to think the usual cause is precisely the opposite, and that the
heavy wattle draws the lid away from the eye. If the reader
pulls his lower eye-lid’ away from the eye-ball for a few moments,
the irritation felt and the secretion of fluid which follows will
show at once what we mean; and in no other way can we ex-
plain the constant occurrence of small pimples on the inside
surface of the eye-lids in these cases. Any large eye-wattle is
rather subject to form a spout, which may also follow a peck
from another bird, or any other injury; but the fleshy-eyed
birds are far the most subject to it; and as the constant dis-
charge from the eye is very weakening, this is a very scrious
consideration, and a strong reason for preferring thin-eyed
birds.

Besides the head-points which have now been described,
Moore justly lays great stress upon a long and thin neck, which
was even then beginning to be deemed a property. It is con-
sidered so now in the fullest sense, and it almost invariably
carries other properties with it. For instance, a Carrier should
have good length of thigh and leg, and be as long in feather

OTHER PROPERTIES. 79

(ie. in wings and tail) as possible, without the end of the
tail tipping the bird forward; but we have never found these
properties fail when conjoined with a good neck, which there-
fore virtually includes them. The neck should be as thin
as possible at both extremities—that is, thinning almost
suddenly from the shoulders, and running up to a fine, clean-
cut gullet; and a bird with these properties and their relatives
—that is, with long thin neck, long limbs, and long tight
feather—is said to be fine and “racy”-looking. It may be
added that these latter properties have most of all to do with
any real wzsthetic beauty in a Carrier, and that they are rarely
found in old birds. The fact is that the great weight of wattle
puts so much strain upon the muscles of the neck and gullet,
that it necessarily becomes coarse with the continued effort to
sustain the loaded head, precisely as the blacksmith’s arm
thickens with exercise; and here again, therefore, we have a
strong reason for insisting that certain points shall not be de-
veloped in mere size any further than is consistent with other
properties.

Nine-ténths of the Carriers shown are black or dun, which
are both self-coloured all over. The black should be a real
black, and not a dull bluish-black tinge. Very good blues
with black bars are also often shown, though they mostly
fail in colour, being smoky or chequery, owing to the strong
dash of black Carrier blood in them ; but blue being one of the
most natural colours in pigeons, this fault will doubtless be
gradually bred out. Of late some fairish white Carriers have
also been shown; but we cannot say we have ever yet seen a
thoroughly good bird of this colour, and it will probably be
some years before such are produced.

‘In breeding for colour, black is usually considered the
superior, dun being really a kind of complementary colour
to it. As long as blacks remain rich, with a metallic lustre,
they may be bred together; but whenever the colour fails,

80 TIIZ PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

and becomes sooty, or bluish, or dull, it is necessary to re-
fresh it by a cross with a rich dun. It unfortunately
happens that the best duns for this purpose suffer most from
exposure to the sun, becoming mottled and pale; but this
cannot be helped. It has long been the custom to match
black cocks with dun hens; and this has naturally resulted
by degrees in a scarcity, comparatively, of dun cocks and
black hens. For this very reason, it is well, whenever pos-
sible, to match the birds the other way; when, if the progeny
is good, they can compete in the classes which show least
competition. Blues have to be matched occasionally to blacks
to keep up the head-properties, choosing for this purpose a
black as blue in shade as can be found. The best match
is to put a black hen to a blue cock. Blues may also be
matched to those light-coloured birds called silvers, when
such can be found good enough. One great difficulty in
breeding blues is to get the lower part of the back, tech-
nically called the “rump,” of a dark shade, the natural blue
pigeon having that part of a very light colour, Various
crosses have been tried to overcome this difficulty, and Mr.
Fulton recommends, as one of the best, to match a light dun
hen with a blue cock, which may probably produce one or
two blue-chequers; when pairing such a bird back to the
blue will probably produce what is desired. Whites have
been, in our opinion, produced by matching pale blues to
white Dragoon hens as stout as can be got. The produce is
generally a splashed bird, and by choosing the most white, and
matching them according to opportunity to pale light-rumped
blues, silvers, or even the lightest-coloured duns, the colour is
obtained, We should ourselves be very much inclined to try a
cross with a white Scandaroon—a breed which we are certain
is closely related to the Carrier, and which has already length
of face, though with an ugly downward curve.

In breeding all colours of Carriers, there are several impor.

NECESSITY OF VIGOUR. 81

tant general rules to keep in mind. One of these is that this
variety cannot be bred in-and-in so long as many other pigeons.
It appears that vigour of constitution is necessary to keep up a
good quantity of the peculiar growth which forms the “ wattle,”
as is, indeed, natural enough ; for this reason, while in-breeding
will often improve shape and style of wattle, it almost always,
after one or two generations, begins to diminish size. Hence
an ocasional cross is absolutely necessary ; but the breeder
should endeavour, for reasons already given, to provide these as
far as possible in his own loft. We have seen an extraordinary
improvement in growth of wattle produced by one cross on a
well-bred strain of birds which had thus been run “ too fine.”

A still more important thing for the Carrier breeder ever to
keep before him is to keep up health and vigour in his hens.
In a highly artificial breed like this, the natural difference in
vigour of the two sexes is much intensified. Hens, as a rule,
are hatched second in the nest ; and as Carriers do not feed so
easily as other pigeons (except short-faces), they are very apt
to become stunted. It is ten times as difficult to procure a
large and strong Carrier hen with good points as a cock; and
such a hen is, therefore, always worth buying, whether immedi-
ately wanted or not. But what we would particularly impress
upon the amateur is to breed himself for strong hens. Care
should be taken to take away the first egg till the second is
ready, as already mentioned, and thus prevent the (probable)
young cock from getting the start ; and especially, when it is
believed a hen is hatched from the best birds, it may be given
the whole food from an extra pair of feeders. If these cannot
be had, it is well worth while sacrificing the young cock (unless
unusually promising) for the sake of improving the hen.

Again, if the amateur lives in the country, and can manage
it, it is an excellent plan to let the young hens fly at liberty for
at least a few months. More than this can generally not be
allowed, as liberty seems to check the growth of wattle, while it

Gq

82 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

hardens it. But unless the bird is wanted to show as a young
one, it is not desirable the wattle should grow too fast in the
early months, and liberty will do much, not only to strengthen
the constitution generally, but so to harden the eye-wattle that
it will be far less likely to run into spouts later on. Birds
inclined to be fleshy-eyed are peculiarly benefited by such
natural treatment ; indeed, there can be little doubt that the
soft and fleshy texture has been developed mainly by continuous
breeding in confinement in a somewhat warm temperature, and
that liberty tends to produce return to a harder and better
condition. We therefore, wherever it can be done, strongly
advise flying young Carriers, but breeding hens especially, up
to the age of six or seven months; after that they must be
kept to the aviary in mst cases, or the growth of wattle will
probably suffer, and the beaks become too dark.

Length of feather is kept up by breeding from birds hatched
tolerably early in the year, late-hatched birds being nearly
always short in quill, and transmitting the same quality to their
progeny. As regards mere size of wattle, also, it is to be ob-
served that this is often lost, in some degree, by breeding together
young birds on both sides—z. ¢., birds hatched the season before.
On the other hand, these young ones are apt to produce the
longest-necked and most ‘racy ”-looking progeny ; so that the
breeder has in his hands considerable control over these points,
apart from the properties of his strain. The most usual plan
is to put a full-grown cock with a young hen, endeavouring
thus to combine good development with fine neck and gullet,
and also because cocks will generally breed long after hens
are often barren. If, however, pains are taken to preserve the
constitution of the hens, and, above all, if those found to breed
good stock are not shown much, they can be preserved with
their breeding powers unimpaired for many years. Nothing
destroys the constitution of.a Carrier hen more surely than often
showing her ; and it does not pay to exhibit one proved to breed

PRIMARY POINTS IN BREEDING CARRIERS. 83

well at any but a first-class show. These are very few—only
two or three in a season; and this a strong hen should bear
without injury.

In commencing to breed Carriers, we strongly advise taking
ag primary points beak-watile and beak, but laying as much
stress on good shape of beak-wattle as its size. Lye-wattle can
be got at almost any time by a cross from the large fleshy-eyed
birds, which often make good matches for those which have
otherwise good heads, but are wanting in eye. The beak-wattle
should, however, be always kept in mind, and no marked fault
in it on one side be left without a corrective. For instance, a
wattle of the peg-top stamp may very likely run small and
pinched towards the front, where it runs on to the nostrils;
which is, indeed, one of the most common faults of any. Now
if the breeder should have in his loft a bird, otherwise fairly
suitable, of the walnut or spherical type of wattle, set perhaps
too far forward, somewhat as if a large marble were threaded
on the beak, such would make an excellent match, and be likely
to produce some excellent beak-wattles: showing also good
“distance” from beak-wattle to eye. Generally speaking, a
hollow or flat place, either on the top or sides of the middle of
the beak-wattle or towards the front part of it, are the most
frequent faults; and a wattle well filled there, or showing a
fairly symmetrical convexity all the way from back to front, is
always of high breeding value. Such a bird, unless the whole
wattle is enormous, will rarely be very crowded in the posterior
portion ; whilst those with large wattles, but rather hollow in
the front or middle, often .are, the wattle seeming to make its
growth behind. Take it all in all, therefore, a tolerably
straight and massive beak, with wattle well filled in the middle
and front, are the chief points.

Great size of wattle alone, however, is always worth some-
thing. However hollow to the front, and correspondingly
crowded and overgrown behind, by matching it to a smalles

84 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

harder wattle, well arched from the eye behind and full in front,
there is a great probability of getting good progeny from it.
And if a bird has both good size and shape of wattle, a com-
paratively short face need not hinder its being of the greatest
value in the loft. For more detailed information on matching
different types of Carrier heads, illustrated with diagrams of
various kinds of wattles, we must refer to the “Book of
Pigeons,” by Mr. R. Fulton, where the subject is gone into
with great minuteness; and where much other practical infor-
mation on Carrier breeding can be obtained.

In selecting the young birds which are to be retained, the
great point is to choose those which are well filled up in the
middle and front of the wattle, and arch well away from the
eye behind. Such are very unlikely to become really bad in
shape; whereas any wattles which rise up high at the extreme
back when young, or appear at all straight in their “lines”
towards the beak, are almost sure to become more and more
hollow with age. The eye will speak for itself when the strain
is known. For exhibiting the first season, the soft-wattled
strains, bred in confinement, are naturally the most successful ;
and such birds must be hatched early in the year, to give them
time for making up before showing. There is, of course, great
risk in this, and many such early-hatched young birds are lost;
many good hens are also pumped out and rendered prematurely
barren by such early breeding; but both are risks and losses
that must be encountered if the object is to be attained. It
will be particularly desirable to provide purposely young,
vigorous, healthy hens, which have been flown when young,
for such early breeding.

Carriers always flown will feed their young very well; but
the majority fail after a week or so, and a staff of strong feeders
is therefore very important. For this purpose nothing will
surpass coarse-beaked Dragoons or long-faced Antwerps; but
any hardy pigeon with a large Leak will answer the purpose

DRAGOONS. 85

Small beaks, of course, will not answer so well, especially when
the young ones begin to get rather large.

Carriers require particular care and watchfulness as regards
cold in the eye, and canker in the ear, or in the mouth. They
are also, as already observed, peculiarly subject to “spouts,”
and also to have the eye-wattle torn by fighting, being of a
rather quarrelsome disposition. For all these matters see the
chapter on diseases and ailments at the end of this work.

CHAPTER VII
DRAGOONS.

Tue Dragoon has long been called Dragon in certain London
circles; but it is spelt by Moore as above, and, as we have
already pointed out, the etymological connection with Horse-
man and Carrier is very clear. The word Dragon is clearly a
vulgarism ; and it is a matter for congratulation that with the
spread of pigeon literature it has nearly disappeared amongst
the more respectable ranks of pigeon-fanciers, the most success-
ful exhibitors of late adhering to the original pronunciation of
Dragoon, The pigeon is said by Moore to have been, “ without
dispute,” bred originally by crossing Horsemen with Tumblers ;
the Horseman being itself, in his opinion, also a Carrier
cross, and simply a bird with hardly good enough properties to
show as a Carrier proper. Having nothing definite about it,
the Horseman has naturally disappeared ; but the Dragoon has
been developed by careful breeding into a bird of singular
beauty, which has of late years become as popular as any, and
often realises large prices. We have heard people say there is
“nothing to breed for” in it, but those who attempt the task

86 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

find this is a delusion. Besides its value in this respect, the
Dragoon has the merit of a very high degree of sesthetic beauty,
and is one of the best bréeders and feeders known, so that the
refuse birds may be made very useful. It is a good Homing
Bird; and until the recent importations from Belgium, was
the principal pigeon employed for carrying messages in this
country. .

Some years ago there was considerable difference as to
the correct ideal of a Dragoon. Breeders in London and its
neighbourhood showed a propensity to obtain as much beak-
wattle as possible ; while in the Midland counties a long and
thin head, with little wattle, and a different type in some other
important respects, generally prevailed, each party claiming to
have the “original” type. These views have, however,
gradually approximated, and the difference is not now very
great; but as some still maintain the contrary, it may be well
to place the truth of our statement beyond dispute, in order
that beginners may not be misled by mere verbal disputes,
such as are too common among pigeon fanciers.

That very exaggerated Carrier-like wattles were once shown
in and about London we have never known disputed, and is
established by Eaton, who relates how he has often seen indubi-
table Carriers shown as Dragoons—sometimes with success, and
sometimes not. The gradual change from ¢his false standard
will need no further proof than the representation on the opposite
page of a beautiful blue Dragoon which won many cups and
other prizes a short time ago, and which, up to this day, we have
seldom seen surpassed. We give it as the now accepted type
of a London Dragoon. This bird had, in fact, only one definite
fault, viz., a little “ jewing,” or wattle, on the under mandible,
which we have erased. From this identical pigeon, then, we
will describe the present moderated and now accepted type as
follows. The length of face to centre of the eye, as nearly as
possible, in a proper sized bird, 1§ inches (the proper size being

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BLUE DRAGOON COCK.

POINTS OF DRAGOONS. 89

rather smaller than a Carrier), and a very large or small bird
being a shade more or less; but such variations themselves
spoil this pigeon, which, in clean outlines, medium size, and
exquisite symmetry, very much resembles a game cock amongst
fowls. The beak-wattle should be of a fair moderate size, as
shown in the engraving, neither much less nor much more;
and its ideal of shape is quite different from that of a Carrier.
While the Carrier wattle is generally convex and arched away
from the eye, the Dragoon should have what is known from
time immemorial as a “peg” wattle: that is, rising at once
behind to its full height, and then coming down straight to a
point. In-the young bird it is almost smooth, and of course
small, and it should be divided by a sort of line down the
middle; but gradually the surface becomes rougher, though the
regular build must be preserved to the last. The eye-wattle is
about the size of a sixpence, and should not be more; it is
circular when young, but becomes “ pinched” behind with age;
and as this marks the bird off from the Carrier, it is reckoned a
good point. In blue Dragoons the eye-wattle becomes dark with
age, especially round the inner edge; and without this sign of
dark blood and a dark red eye, the colour of the feather is
rarely good, or the “rump” blue. In hens, the size of both
beak-wattle and eye are proportionately less. The neck is much
shorter than a Carrier’s, and widens at once gradually to the
shoulders ; the gullet should be clean, and not prominent as in
the Owl. The flights and tail are of more moderate length than
in the Carrier, and the wings often shorter in proportion to
the tail; but length of feather depends much on the time the
birds are hatched. The bird does not stand quite so tall on its
legs as a Carrier, and is, in fact, more compactly made alto-
gether. It is accordingly worthless, unless finally set off by
clean and hard plumage.

It should also be remarked that while the sides of the
head are in a Carrier desired parallel and as close as possible,

90 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

the skull of a Dragoon is wedge-shaped—broad behind and
tapering towards the front. The beak should be nearly or
quite black in blues, blue-chequers, silvers, and grizzles ; reds,

BirmtneHam Dragoon Hen, 1870.

yellows, and whites have pale beaks. Blues and blue-chequers
are also the only varieties which show dark colour in the eye-
lash, except some dark grizzles.

Such is the present accepted type of the Dragoon, as now

THE BIRMINGHAM STANDARD. 91

acknowledged by nearly all breeders; but as this is verbally
denied still by a few Birmingham fanciers, it next becomes
necessary to prove very briefly how the “ Birmingham school,”
as lt is called, has itself steadily approached it of late, till there
is now no important difference. In the year 1870, then, a
Birmingham Dragoon fancier described the bird as having a
“long, flat, narrow head, straight thin bill, and prominent
eye;” and Mr. Ludlow, a well-known Birmingham authority,
further described the Birmingham type as follows :—“ Head
long and straight ; skull narrow, well developed at the back ;
eye-lash white and circular; neck long, slender, and graceful ;
legs long, clean, and angular; bearing of a timid, tremulotis
kind;” and he further describes the wings as “sharp-
pointed.”

Mr. Ludlow accompanied his description with a drawing, of
which we give an accurate tracing on the opposite page, which
was stated to represent a hen of mature age, and in which we
unquestionably see a vast difference from even the moderated
London type of the cock shown on page 87. The beak is
longer and thinner, there is less wattle by far, the legs are much
longer, and the whole bird is much more slim ; the
crown of the head is also flat. The differences are
so sharp and clear as to be beyond dispute.

Going on, however, a few years from this
description and figure, Mr. Ludlow, in 1874,
tempered down the description of the skull to
“rather narrow;” and while he still calls the beak
“long,” gives it as 12 inches, the same length as
the then London standard. He also termed it
“strong,” but accompanied this description with
the drawing reproduced in Fig. 22, which, as
compared with the bird on page 87, shows a beak decidedly
thin. In Fulton’s “Book of Pigeons,” however, in 1875, Mr.
Ludiow claims for the Birmingham type of Dragoon “a nice,

Fig. 22,

92 THE PRAUTICAL PIGEON KEFPER.

thick, evenly-shaped beak;” and a month or two later*
he gave as his ideal the portrait on the opposite page of a
mature hen. On comparing this recent Birmingham hen with
the hen drawn in 1870, we see how the beak has become
shortened and thickened, the skull less flat, the wings and tail
shorter, the body plumper, and the neck widened more rapidly
to the shoulders. In brief, and without wasting further space
in details, a simple comparison of the three drawings will show
that Mr. Ludlow’s last hen would be a very good match for the
London cock, and is infinitely nearer to it in type than to his
own earlier drawing. If we consider that no judge in his
senses, whichever he admired, would discard a bird for a little
more or less beak-wattle alone, there is in fact no real difference
left at all.

We have desired to show these facts plainly, because
certain parties still keep up a strife which is now mainly of
mere words. Of what avail is it, for instance, for London
fanciers to call the beak short, and the other school to insist
that it is “long,” when both lay down the same precise length
of 18 inches, as both do? London has yielded something, and
Birmingham more ; and we have now as good a standard as we
can have, if the desire be—as it is professed —to have a distinctly
typical pigeon. For if the present moderated London style be
objected to as too near the Carrier, and the old Birmingham
type argued for as the “ original” Dragoon, it can only be
replied that the evidence of fact is the other way. Old Moore
is conclusive evidence, as far as the “original” type goes, that
it was avowedly made by a cross, and that it was also usual by
crossing to give it a “ tolerable degree of stoutness.” And, on the
other hand, if the one London point of more size in wattle be a
Carrier point, every other point in the old Birmingham model—

* All these statements and comparisons will be found fully worked out by
the author of this work, in the Live Stock Journal of May 7, 14, and 21,
1875.

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BIRMINGHAM DRAGOON HEN (MODERN TYPE).

BREEDING OF DRAGOONS. 95

the long face, the flat, narrow, parallel skull, the long and thin
neck, the length of feather and limb—are Carrier properties.
The true fancier at least will never consent to abandon the
type now adopted, after long debate, by mutual consent. The
moderate-sized wattle, of good shape, is wonderfully difficult to
breed good. It tends to break out in excrescences, or to get too
coarse or too small, and this is the charm of producing it; but
the old Birmingham style of head and wattle can be bred by the
dozen, and is so far a lower class of pigeon—in fact, hardly a
fancy pigeon at all, which the true Dragoon is.

We give, then, the two shaded drawings as fairly representing
the modern Dragoon ; the cock showing about as much wattle
as a good breeder likes to see, while the hen shows about as
little as he prefers on a bird of even the weaker sex. The dif-
ference is not greater than the latitude taken by different judges
of every pigeon; both agree now in seeking a thick and dark
beak, and most certainly neither would throw out a good bird
for a little difference in limb or feather. The sole point really left
in dispute is as to the eye-lash of blues and chequers, which the
Birmingham fanciers still profess to desire white and circular,
while the Londoners seek a dark hue and pinched form. It need
not be pointed out that here again the Londoners are furthest
from the Carrier ; and it is sufficient to add that this point
will settle itself if the bird be correctly judged for soundness of
colour; for, as before remarked, we have hardly ever, if ever,
seen a good sound blue, dark on the rump, which had not the
_ dark eye-lash.

Blue Dragoons are, as a rule, bred together, choosing good
colour, and especially avoiding light-rumped birds. This fault of
light rump is common to the brighter blues, and is best counter-
acted by matching to blue-chequers, or even to dark grizzles :
indeed, some good breeders prefer to pair up their birds, as
atule, blue to a chequer or dark grizzle. They say that by this
method of breeding they get plenty of blues and more good

96 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

rumps than in any other way ; and we think it likely, provided
any matches between bright blues and light grizzles are avoided.
The grizzle is itself a peculiar mixture of blue and’ white in a
kind of pepper-and-salt pattern, and is by no means easy to pro-
duce uniform all over, free from white on the rump, owing to
the mixture of white in the blood. The result of many inquiries
is that most good grizzles are got by matching average to darker
tint, with an occasional cross of the blue-chequer ; but that,
after all, grizzles of the desired quality all over are much a
matter of chance. The bars of all blues and its sub-varieties
should be clean, black, and sharp, and the eyes as deep a red as
possible.

Silvers are divided into what is called brown barred and
black-barred, but the black is only a very dark brown after all.
The breast should be free from red or copper, and the silver as
clear in colour as possible. Every fancier prefers the dark or
so-called “black” bar ; and to obtain it the only way is to cross
every second or third year with blues in a special way. The
bright light-rumped blues will not answer. A dark-rumped,
good blue cock should be paired to a silver hen; and the best
blues from this cross paired again to silvers. If the blue cock
be young while the silver hen is old, cocks will generally pre-
dominate in the produce.

. Whites are, of course, usually bred together ; when crossed,
the lightest blues and silvers are of course required, crossing
the produce back to whites.

In breeding yellow and red there is now less difficulty than
formerly, there being little doubt that both colours, which are
foreign to the original strain of the Carrier, have been obtained
by complicated crosses with Scandaroons and other pigeons.
The great point is to select birds always which have the rump
of a pure self-colour, free from dun or ash-colour. With such
materials, the yellow may either be refreshed, when necessary
(for all ycliows soon become pale when in-bred), by foreign

BARBS. 97

yellows or across from the red. Reds can only be kept ur
by red, from another strain also pure and deep in colour all
over, and always avoiding any reds from the yellow cross;
unless a jet black bird can be procured of suitable properties,
which will often improve the red considerably. But any sign
of sootiness, or ash-colour, or bars should discard a bird at once.
The eyes of these varieties are orange.

As to head-points, it is necessary every now and then to
keep down size and keep up symmetry of wattle by using a
bird rather under-wattled. Symmetry of body will give little
trouble.

Above all, study condition. A Dragoon is nothing unless
hard and clean in feather, as if “cut out” of solid material.”
Nothing but plenty of exercise can give this ; while it also tends
to darken the eye, keep the wattle hard and compact, and in
blues darken the beak and eye-lash.

Dragoons will train and perform well for any distance up to
a hundred or a hundred and twenty miles. It is probable that
if bred so severely by results as the Belgian birds, they might
be found not inferior for longer distances. They give no
trouble, and need scarcely any attention in rearing.

CHAPTER VIII
BARBS.

Tue Barb makes a convenient transition between the wattled
pigeons and the Short-faces, as they are called; and it is in-
teresting to observe in this variety how some of the very same
elements that go to make up the Carrier have been here de-
veloped in a direction. exactly opposite to the type of that
pigeon. The resemblance between the large eye-wattles of
both varieties is so striking that some people have tried
a

98 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

the experiment of crossing Barbs with Carriers, in the hope
of improving this point ; but the model of the two birds is
so totally different that no good has ever been traced to such
a cross. It has been forgotten that not only is a Carrier

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head narrow, but the type of the eye-wattle is thin ; whilst
we want in a Barb to encourage width, as much as possible,
in both wattle and skull.

This is, no doubt, one of the most ancient varieties of pigeons.
Shakespeare alludes in As You Like It (Act iv., Scene 2) toa
“Barbary” pigeon, which there is not the slightest doubt is
the same as that before us; and it seems likely that Moore

CHARACTER OF THE BARB. 99

is correct in supposing that the “ Mahomet ”—a mere crested
varicty of Barb—received its name from one of the sort being
a pet of the Arabian impostor. Both alike trace the pigeon to
Africa, it will be noticed ; and modern importations have been
made from the same source apparently. It is at least certain
that the birds which have most improved all existing strains of
Barbs have been imported, by Messrs. Baily and Son, from
the neighbourhood of Marseilles, the traffic between which
port and Northern Africa was formerly even greater than it
is now.

The Barb was formerly considered a “toy” pigeon, but the
modern development of its properties has made it so difficult to
produce them in a degree even approaching perfection, that it is
now ranked amongst the “high-class” varieties. Not only is it
as difficult to breed a good Barb as a good Carrier, but the bird,
after being shown as a young one, takes just about as long to
“take up” sufficiently for winning as an adult bird. There
are, in fact, much fewer good Barbs to be found than good
Carriers; so that perhaps no variety is so “open” to the
efforts of any new recruit to the ranks of pigeon breeders.

Being a wattled pigeon, the principal properties of a Barb-
lie in the head, as in the Carrier; but the type is in every point
almost as opposite as can well be to that of the pigeon just
named. A good notion of the ideal may be got from an old-
fashioned reel of cotton a little unwound—we mean such as
were used before the very thick machine-cotton reels came in
vogue. The eye-wattles represent the two projecting ends or
rims of the reel, the middle part of which roughly represents
the skull of the bird. It will be gathered from this that the
skull is wanted as wide as possible from side to side, while the
two eye-wattles are desired as large as possible, and as thick
as possible at the edges, so that they do not fall or drop down
over the eyes, which is a very great disfigurement, though not
unfrequently seen in worn-out old birds. It is particularly

100 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER,

desired that the head be entirely free from any wedge-shape,
but be as wide between the front of the eye-wattles as it is
behind. When this is the case the skull will look very short
and appear sharply cut out in front, the two front corners, as
they may be termed, standing out in a peculiar “square”
manner not seen in
any other pigeon.
The skull looks the
better if there is a
sort of projection or
fulness at the back,
making the top of it
rather flat.

We next come to
the eye-wattles, which
differ essentially from
\ those of the Carrier

Fig. 23,—Heap or Bars. in being desired thick,

as well as large and

circular ; also in being bright red in colour. They are sub-
ject to the same fault as the Carrier’s: viz, a tendency to
grow most towards the front and top, while deficient or
“pinched” behind. But this fault is less seen in square-headed
birds. A good formation, as regards thickness of wattle, adds
amazingly to the appearance of a bird. If the greatest thick-
ness be towards the edges, and the wattle be comparatively
thinner in the middle, round the eye itself, that organ is much
less liable to spouts, and the wide and square appearance of the
head is much increased ; whereas, if the wattle be thick at the
centre and thinner at the edges the effect is very poor. In
regard to colour of wattle, the imported birds are often better
than home-bred ones. Mr. Fulton* attributes this, we think
justly, to the freer use of duns by English breeders, It is

*See “Book of Pigeons,” p. 235,

PROPERTIES OF TIIE HEAD. 101

certain that dun is little liked by foreign fanciers, and that
blacks, reds, yellows, and whites usually have much redder
wattles than duns, which are generally pale. Greater confine-
ment also has its influence. The colour of the eye itself should
be white, or what pigeon fanciers call “pearl,” but it is very
rare to find the iris all white. If the inner portion imme-
diately surrounding the pupil is pearl, the eye will pass very
well, though the outer edge be orange or gravel, as it more
frequently is. An altogether red, gravel, or orange eye is a
decided fault, but may be condoned for other sinking head
properties.

The beak should be as thick and short as possible, the desir-
ability of thickness applying more particularly to the lower
mandible. It should rather incline downwards, or be “ down-
faced ;” but overmuch insistance by some judges upon this point
has led to an objectionable practice of slightly bending down
the-beak, while soft, with the finger and thumb. When this is
done gently, every day from about three days old, for a week
or so, it cannot be detected, we fear ; but most people who act
thus overdo it, and produce an unnatural appearance of “ down-
face” which ought to be disqualified. ‘The beak of a Barb is
always desired to be white, or rather flesh-colour. A black
beak, which is very common in some otherwise good strains of
blacks, not only makes the head look very coarse in itself, but
is very generally accompanied by a dark or smoky tinge in the
red of the eye-wattles, which makes things still worse. A beak
with more than a slight stripe of dark colour on the upper
mandible, is therefore a decided fault: but this again may be
condoned for a fine and massive head.

The beak-wattle should only be a moderate size, as smooth
as possible, and so shaped as to fill up, but little more than do
so, the even convex curve which the profile of the whole head
from crown to the point of the beak should present. Some good
birds are heavily jewed underneath the lower mandible; but

102 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER,

this is generally regarded as a fault, though opinion varics a
great deal on this point—more so than on any other point in
a Barb. Our impression is, however, that the majority prefer
a bird without very much jewing.

The neck of a Barb should be rather shortish, widening
rapidly to the shoulders. It adds to the apparent shortness
of face, if there be a full gullet ; but some fanciers prefer the
gullet clean. The chest or breast should be very broad—more
decidedly so than in any other pigeon; and the flights and tail
of moderate length, giving the whole bird rather a plump appear-
ance. Of course early hatching will often cause comparatively
long feather ; and we once had a very fine-headed black cock as
long in feather as a Carrier; but we always felt that this
unusual length was not “in character” with the bird. We
also like to see the flights so “set” inside the outer quills or
secondaries, as to show a kind of “corner” in the wing above
the line of the body, and some of Mr. Hedley’s strain used
to show this point remarkably. The legs ought to be very
short, giving quite a waddling gait to the bird when walking ;
and the shanks should be clean. Many otherwise good birds
are slightly feathered down the outside of the shank, and it
is a venial fault, but a fault still, Some people pluck these
feathers; but we do not consider this fair, and as it can be
easily detected, such treatment should be followed (like every
other detected act of deceit) with disqualification.

Barbs are shown black, dun, red, yellow, and white. The
whites are almost always black-eyed (termed “bull”-eyed by
fanciers) but if white like the others, are more valuable. Whites
are a distinct strain, and are of great beauty when the head-
points are fairly good, as some are; the wattles being in this
colour really a bright coral-red. There are but few breeders of
whites, so that this colour sadly needs improvement; but if
bred up to the same head-properties as blacks, a white Barb
would be in our opinion one of the most beautiful pigeons in

COLOURS OF BARBS. 103

the whole fancy. We have had whites very fair in skull and
wattle ; but they fail as a rule in the beaks being too long and
straight, and the peak-wattle too rough. The other colours have
been so mixed up by breeders, that every colour (except of course
white) has been known to be produced by the same pair of
parent birds during one season. In other breeds dun is usually
kept to match with black, and only jet black sometimes allowed
to mix with red or yellow blood ; hence the reds and yellows are
kept pure. But in Barbs the result of the general mixture is
that reds are very seldom sound in colour all over, the rump
and tail being generally dun or slate-colour, owing to the dun
blood in the strain.
These circumstances make breeding for colour very difficult
in Barbs, especially as regards yellows. In other pigeons it is
usual to cross this colour with red; but the impure colour in
red Barbs makes this cross comparatively useless here, and as
a fact, all the best yellows about which we have inquired have
been bred from yellow mated to rich black. The black cross is
also excellent with reds, and may in either colour be employed
either way. . If reds and yellows were crossed exclusively with
rich blacks until the dun tails were bred out, and duns confined
to crossing with blacks, no doubt the colours of Barbs would
speedily be both improved and rendered more certain. Dun is
as a rule the best cross with black, owing to the propensity of
blacks to develop dark beaks and pinched eye-wattles. The
duns, on the contrary, have much more frequently large soft
eye-wattles (though they are apt to be pale in colour), and
white beaks, by which the faults in the black are corrected.
Whites are of course bred together when good enough, but
might be vastly improved by crossing with light-coloured duns,
and then breeding back the pied produce to white again.

Barbs being so uncertain in colour, and as regards yellow
peculiarly so, an experiment recorded by Mr. J. Firth in the
direction of systematic breeding for it is very instructive and

104 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

interesting. He matched together first a black cock and yellow
hen, as just now recommended; the cross producing seven
birds, of which four were reds; showing very strongly the |
uncertainty of colour just remarked upon. These four reds
were two cocks and two hens; one hen dying. The surviving
red hen was matched to a yellow cock bred from another branch
of the same family, and produced amongst others a yellow hen,
which we will call No. 1. One of the red cocks was matched
to a yellow hen of another strain, and produced amongst others
a yellow cock, which shall be called No. 2. The other red cock
was matched to a black hen, and produced amongst others a red
cock, which shall be called No. 3, and a yellow hen we will
term No. 4. With this second stock at command, then, Mr.
Firth matched No. 1 (yellow) to No. 3 (red), and No. 2 (yellow)
with No. 4 (also yellow) ; and at the time he reported the ex-
periment, he had hatched, from these two pairs, eight young
ones, every one a perfectly-coloured yellow.

Opinion rather varies as to the proper size of a Barb. It is
often said that the pigeon ought to be rather small ; but in old
birds at least, we have generally noticed that a good-sized bird
wins. The nearest to a general rule we can lay down is, that
the bird must have the appearance of a big head, whatever the
body may be. If the head appear wide, square, and large, the
bird is all the better if the body be small ; but the large-look-
ing head is essential anyhow, in anything like good competition.
Small birds are more likely to win as young ones, their neat
appearance, if the skull is well shaped, carrying off their
inferior size. It is, in fact, as a rule, necessary to breed a very
different kind of stock to win with in young Barb classes.
There are eye-wattles that develop quickly, as in Carriers,
though they are apt to “spout” at a later date. Birds with such
wattles, therefore, and good shaped skulls of only moderate size,
often make the most showy young ones: indeed, it is almost
impossible to get a Barb that when young looks short in the

POINTS IN BREEDING BARBS, 105

face, of more than moderate size. On the other hand, a harder
wattle that grows more slowly, and a much longer-looking face
that gives room for the eye-wattles to grow, will generally, if
there be real massive character about the head, make the most
dangerous bird in the end. We have, however, bred very
pretty-looking young ones that also made up well, and realised
when developed a considerable sum, though not of the most
massive school.

We have heard a great deal about the uncertain character
of Barb breeding in regard to head properties ; but we believe
no pigeon breeds more truly if bred in the right way. The
grand points are, good square skulls, and good beaks. Mere
eye-wattle can be got up easily, but good skull and beak cannot.
On the other hand, if well-bred birds of this character be started
with and kept to, a high degree of certainty is attainable.
Moderate ages may be bred together, but it is bad practice to
put young birds together, as the wattle is apt to diminish;
therefore, a young bird with wattle undeveloped is best
matched to a fully matured one. Young birds, on the contrary,
show the best beak, which is another reason for counteracting
in point of age. It is in fact found, as a rule, that in Barb
breeding there is a kind of antagonism between eye-wattle and
beak, Heavy wattle, which is produced by breeding fully
matured birds of good type, is usually accompanied by some
failing in thickness of beak; which therefore needs to be
counteracted by throwing in younger blood, and so on through
the whole history of the strain.

Black, or at least dark beaks, are a great difficulty in black
Barbs. There is evidently a strong tendency for all black
pigeons to become black in the beak ; but in a Barb this gives
a coarseness of look which is most unpleasant. Unfortunately
this objectionable depth of colour seems increased by much
flying, which adds yet another difficulty in Barb breeding.
For these reasons it is almost impossible to go on long breeding

106 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

only blacks together, the more so as they seem also to have
more tendency than the other colours to become pinch-eyed.
It is therefore necessary to match them from time to time with
duns or reds, which improve beak and wattle both. Two
very dark beaks should never be bred from, or the result will
be a black beak in nearly every case. By careful matching to
duns and reds, we have seen not a few absolutely clear beaks
produced even in black Barbs, and the effect is so far superior
to that of a dark beak, that this point is well worth careful
cultivation.

The young are hardy and easily reared, but require feeders
after the first week, the form of the beak interposing mecha-
nical difficulties. Very rarely we have had a really good bird
that fed well, but it is the exception. A strain of common,
long-faced Barbs often supplies good feeders ; but on the whole,
after trying these, Dragoons, and some others, we preferred
medium or short-faced Antwerps, the proportions of their heads
appearing to suit those of the Barbs exceedingly well. The
quality of the young ones can be seen pretty fairly at a very
early age, long before they are fledged. If a bird is very broad
and hollow across the head, with an immense gaping mouth, it
is likely to turn out well. At a later stage they often become
very plain and common-looking, owing to the growth of the
feathers ; but this is only transitory, and the quality reappears.
Yellows can be distinguished almost as soon as hatched, by the
skin being almost bare and of a peculiar polished appearance.
Duns have a somewhat similar look, but not so marked. The
age of three or four months is a rather critical time, if it finds
them in the cold weather of autumn—they seem tried by the
change in plumage. A cod-liver oil capsule every other day at
this period seems to keep up flesh and strength, and will
prevent many losses; we never lost a young bird after, at
Mr. Firth’s suggestion, we tried this treatment.

As soon as the eye-wattle is at all fully developed, it needa

EXIIBITING BARBS, 107

pretty constant cleaning with a sponge and water; as being thick
and fleshy, dirt and secretion is apt to accumulate in the creases,
which may cause disease and must cause discomfort. Spouts
should be attended to early, as if much developed they are
far more troublesome than in Carriers, owing to the greater
thickness, and do not always heal so well when operated upon.
There are birds which grow a great deal too much wattle, and
we have seen some in the show-pen which have had more cut
away than has been suffered to remain; we are glad to say
that such birds win less frequently now than formerly. Apart
from cutting, we have seen some old birds exhibited of the
heavy-browed type, which were really pitiable in appearance,
the overgrown, relaxed wattle falling down over the eye in a
very repulsive manner.

Before exhibiting Barbs, the eye-wattles want a thorough
washing with a cloth or sponge, and cold water. It is won-
derful how this will bring out the colour, and a very little
butter rubbed on while the skin is damp will keep it for some
time. Often a few small feathers will grow on the edge of the
eye-wattles, and these the majority of exhibitors consider it
admissible to remove, though it cannot strictly be defended.
There is no temptation to go any further, since it would take
away from width of skull todo so. The upper mandible will
sometimes grow longer than the under one in all birds fed from
a hopper ; and in such cases it is fair to cut back to an even
point, which is always preserved in pigeons that feed from the
floor. The beak should in fact be kept so for mere purposes of
health, whether the bird be shown or not; but before showing
it should always be examined and trimmed back if necessary
to the proper point: to go one fraction beyond betrays itself in
a moment, and is fraud.

Barbs readily become very tame and familiar: we have had
several that even deserved to ke called affectionate. This is
especially the case if brought up by hand, which ic very easily

108 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

done. No high-class pigeon, it may safely be said, gives more
constant occupation and interest to the breeder, in counteracting
successively the various tendencies which develop as we have
tried to explain. Now guarding against a black beak; now
against pale wattle ; now throwing in more wattle; now re-
storing beak properties generally ; now eradicating heavy jew
wattle—his work never comes to an end, while at the same
time no pigeon responds more surely to judicious matching.

CHAPTER [X.

SHOKRT-FACED TUMBLERS.

Tue class of pigeons known as Short-faced Tumblers have
now so completely lost all propensity to tumble, and been so
long bred for other properties, that many people have questioned
whether they were ever true Tumblers at all. It is true they
are now bred for fancy points without reference to performance
of any kind, and are therefore purely fancy birds: but there
is no real doubt that they are at least mainly descended from
performing Tumblers. As we have already seen, even
etymology is worth a great deal as argument in pigeon history,
and there is strong proof even in the name; but other evidence
is not lacking. Moore first describes Tumblers as performing
birds, and afterwards mentions the Almond or Ermine variety :
and even Eaton, in 1858, states that he has seen Almonds per-
form well. At the present date, though many breeders have
never seen one of their birds tumble, a tumbling Short-face is
still occasionally met with. The anonymous “treatise” pub-
lished in 1765, however, presuming it can be depended upon,
puts the fact beyond doubt, and closely defines the date of tran-
sition. Concerning the Almond it expressly states that “this

Morrie TomBLer, ALMonD TUMBLER.

BALpHEAD. BEARD.

SHORT-FACED TUMBLERS.

ORIGIN OF ALMOND TUMRUERS. 111

beautiful and very valuable species were originally produced from
the common Tumblers being properly matched so as to intermix
the feather,” and names black, black grizzles, yellows, whites,
duns, and other colours as having contributed to this result,
which it plainly implies was then recent, adding that by the
same process Almonds are “ always attainable.” The gradual
development of the present Short-faced bird is further shown by
the fact that even as late as 1802, when Windus published his
celebrated treatise on the Almond, the wings were not trailed as
now, but carried above the tail, the same as figured in the
general “ Treatise” of 1765.

It by no means follows, however, that a cross may not have
been employed to add or increase certain properties ; and there
is indeed fair presumptive evidence that such was the case.
Mr, J. C. Lyell considers that an Indian pigeon called the
Goolee had probably something to do with the process; and the
reference to our engraving of Indian pigeons at page 201 will
indeed show very strong resemblances in the decided “ stop,” the
tip-toe carriage, and the wings trailed below the tail, which last
feature is especially remarkable. That the Fantail came from
India we know, and that a peculiar kind of performing Tumblers
exists there still is also perfectly well known : it is therefore by
no means unlikely that the whole tribe of Tumblers may have
come to us from India. But besides the Goolee, in a letter
published in 1879* Mr. Lyell cites interesting evidence respect- -
ing other crosses which may have co-operated in producing the
Short-faced Tumbler. Mr. Jayne, the celebrated breeder of
Croydon, stated to him in conversation that the late Mr. Morey
(mentioned by Eaton as never without a stud of pigeons for
sixty years) was the only one known to him who could recount
how the Short-faced pigeon was produced ; that it was the result
of thirty-two crosses ; and that the African Owl had something
to do with it. Eaton writes of Mr. Morey as already dead in

* Live Stock Journal, Jan. 31, 1879,

112 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

1858, and this would carry his memory back before the time of
Windus, who wrote in 1802; his testimony is therefore of
weight by itself, however apparently improbable. But Mr.
Lyell adds that during a visit to London in 1878, he found in
a fresh copy of Windus, which he picked up, an undated hand-
bill apparently (from the type) of about 1800, offering fifteen
guineas reward for twélve Tumblers stolen from Mr. Parr of
Bethnal Green. These were -fully described, and included
Almonds, Splashes, a dun hen, black Splash cock, and red cock ;
but the remarkable thing is, that while some are described as
having a “fine straight beak” as now, others have a “short
down beak.” This, coupled with Mr. Morey’s statement, is very
strong evidence that the short round head of the African Owl
really may have had something to do with the development of
the Short-faced Tumbler,

We have discussed this subject at some length because of its
exceeding interest, both in regard to the bird itself, and to
pigeon development generally. We now turn to the practical
description of the several varicties.

The Almond Tumbler is by common consent placed at the
head of the Short-faced varieties, and has done more to raise the
tone of the pigeon-fancy than any other breed. While many
other pigeons too often got into low company, the Almond
seemed from the first to attract the sympathies and enlist the
interest of gentlemen, and was brought to perfection by private
Societies of the highest class, whose lineal descendants exist in
London at the present day. The origin of the peculiar “feather”
of the Almond, as we have already seen, cannot be positively de-
termined ; all that can be averred with certainty is the fact,
that somehow or other the ancient breeders—Eastern or Wes-
tern, or both—did manage so to blend together the three colours
of yellow, white, and black, as that each one of the large quill
feathers should show that mixture of the three, to which the

COLOUR OF ALMOND TUMBLERS. 113

naine of Almond is applied. We believe red blood is also inter-
woven in the strain ; or else the red of pigeons must be regarded
as only a deeper shade of the colour known as yellow.

The colour alone distinguishing the Almond class of these
Tumblers from others, we must first describe this, The ground
colour has been compared by different writers successively to
the outside of the kernel, and inside of the shell, and the out-
side of the shell of the ordinary Jordan almond; and no one
now knows what precise shade was perferred by the old breeders.
We believe, however, that the middle comparison best expresscs
it, and that the colour desired was a rich, soft, slightly brownish
yellow. We are sorry to say that this colour has now all but
disappeared, and that not a few breeders seem even to prefer a
kind of mahogany brown that almost deserves to be called
red. This colour is easier to breed, but we must give our
opinion that with it has departed most of the beauty the true
Almond feather possessed ; and it is significant that with the
change has come an almost total disappearance of “ feather”
fanciers, and an abandonment of feather properties for “head
and beak.” No wonder: there is nothing in such feather. worth
breeding for, and nothing for a mere spectator to admire when
it is got. We never saw but two really yellow birds, but it
was very different with them ; and we cannot but feel that if
more attention were paid to this point it would not only tend to
discourage the evils to be mentioned presently, but attract many
more breeders to this pigeon, of the same class as bred it in old
times, but who will never tolerate the modern practices.

However this question of ground-colour be settled, the es-
sential point in a perfect standard “ Almond” Tumbler is, that
the twelve quill feathers of the tail, and the ten large quills
or flights in each wing, should each show both ground-colour,
black, and white, in each feather—so far, at least, as regards the
cocks. It is, however, not universal to find ten flights ; in-breed-
ing and small size causing the production of many birds with a

i

{14- THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

quill less on each side; and hence by common consent nine’ on
each wing are admitted as sufficient. It must be clearly under-
stood that no pattern whatever is insisted upon; and this is
where novices often cannot understand the matter at all. The
point is that each of the “standard” feathers, as they are
called, should show, in some shape and position, a patch of the
ground-colour, of black, and of white; and these colours as clear
and unmixed as possible, a mixture (such as the yellow being
grizzled with white, or peppered with black) being considered a
fault. While these standard feathers are the essential point,
it is further desired that the “rump” of the bird should be
sound in colour, and not light (or “ mealy,” as fanciers term it),
and that the body generally be as evenly sprinkled with black
ticks as can be attained ; this is called being well “ broken” in
feather, and the development of the black marks, the “breaking
of the feather.” The neck and breast run to richer colour, very
-beautifully glossed with green.

An Almond cock only acquires perfection in colour proper-
ties at the age of two or three years, the exact period varying
according to its original colour, owing to a progressive change
which all birds go through, the ground deepening, and the
quantity of black increasing. At first, therefore, one or more
of the standard feathers probably want the black component
necessary, while the ground is too light. A year later these
feathers may be standard, but there will be little or no “break”
on the body. A year later, again, the body will be well broken,
but the white may have disappeared from a standard feather or
two; and later still the bird will be too dark altogether. Hence
a rather lightish ‘bird will remain a standard one a year longer
than one rather dark ; or again, all standard flights are seldom
seen the same year with the best stage of body feathering. It
is also to be observed that hens are lighter than cocks, and
that-in their case, while they are expected to show a standard
tail, it is useless to look for move than three or four standard

CARRIAGE, HEAD, AND BEAK. 115

flights, the rest being invariably deficient in black. For these
reasons it is generally necessary in showing pairs of Almonds
to select a hen a year older than the cock, to make a matched
pair; and the beginner must guard, in selecting his breeding
stock, against rejecting hens for being too light, since he must
remember that in breeding effect they match much darker-look-
ing cocks. The one thing that should be avoided is a rump
mealy or spangled with white.

Following Eaton’s Treatise, “shape or carriage” is the

-next property in an Almond. While the chest is broad, the
neck must rapidly taper till it becomes very thin at the gullet;
and this tapering neck is to be thrown far back in an extremely
pert and saucy way that is very attractive. Our figures will
show this point plainly, and also the peculiar trailing of the
wings on or near the ground, which is the second point in good
carriage. In the third place, the legs are very fine and short,
and the bird walks (when showing itself off) on tip-toe. The
flights and tail are short. It may be remarked here that the
whole bird is small—the smallest in the pigeon fancy except
the Foreign Owl.

The next property is termed “head.” This is desired as
short and round as possible, but broad and high in proportion.
The forehead rises abruptly from the base of the beak, and
even overhangs, which is called having a good “stop.” When
a head does not thus overhang, or at least rise up abruptly, it
is termed “ mousey,” or “ pleasant-faced.” The head should be -
large in proportion to the body, and it is also desired that the
feathers on the front of the cheeks should project well, or curve
outwards, which is called being “ muffy.”

The fourth property is spoken of as “beak,” and what is
meant is that it be short and fine. The length should not
exceed five-eighths of an inch from the centre of the eye to the
point, and the beak must run straight out, without any ap-
proach to a downward inclination, It must also Le extremely

116. THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

fine or thin. Some people have compared a good beak to an
oat-grain stuck into a cherry ; while others prefer a beak which,
equally fine at the point, has a slightly thicker base, like that
of a goldfinch. There are good examples of both, but a sharp
goldfinch beak is the rarer; the essential thing is that the beak
run off fine. The wattle on the beak must be exceedingly
small and fine, and any excess here, or in thickness of beak,
will make the best-headed bird look coarse. The colour of the
beak is that of a grain of wheat. Black beaks are found, and
also give coarseness of appearance.

It is, however, to be observed that all Short-faced Tumblers
are shown with their beaks trimmed, which is not in this case
fraud, but long-understood custom. No bird could appear
naturally as Tumblers are seen in pens. It was early found
that the excessively small beak of the Tumbler grew more dead
horn in proportion than other pigeons, and hence the practice
no doubt originated of cutting off the superfluous growth. To
some extent this is often actually necessary, many beaks grow-
ing crossed or wry if not attended to, which seriously injures
the health, since no bird in this condition can preen its feathers
properly. At all events, it is now the universal practice to
trim the beak with sharp scissors nearly down to the “ quick,”
which improves them considerably. This causes no more pain
than trimming the finger-nails; but some people, anxious to go
to the extre:ae limit, have occasionally cut into the quick or
living portion, as can be seen by the appearance of blood at the
point. Any bird thus barbarously treated should be instantly
disqualified. ;

The fifth and last property is termed the “eye.” This must
be large, circular, and prominent, black in the pupil, and the
iris white or pearl. The cere or lash round the lids is narrow
or small, the feathers growing as close as possible up to the lids;
and the eye should be set well down and a little back, so as to
give full effect to the height of the forehead. The. comparatively

ALMOND SUB-VARIETIES. 117

large white iris gives the cye an arch look, peculiar to Short
faced Tumblers.

In breeding Almonds, the composite character of the breed
has always to be kept in view. The variety is not fixed as are
most others; and those who purchase Almonds expecting them
to breed true, will be disappointed. The bird is a mixture
obtained by long patience and many crosses (this is true, which-
ever of the theories just now mentioned as to its origin may be
adopted), and hence, by the great law of reversion explained in
the chapter on Pedigree Breeding, the original component
elements which went to form it constantly tend to re-appear.
We have supposed these to be (1) black ; (2) red or yellow;
and (3) white. They crop out in breeding Almonds as follows:

Kites represent the Black blood, and are black with more or
less of a reddish or yellowish bronze in the feather; or, as others
term it, a “fiery glow” through the black. Some may be
almost pure black, others more of a rich bronze,

Agates may be either red or yellow. Strictly speaking an
Agate consists of one of these colours, with more or less of
white intermixed. The simple term of Agate is, however,
usually confined to birds showing the colour alone over the
body, with white in only the flights and tail. If white is freely
intermixed over the body, itis usual to call the bird an Agate
Splash. Sometimes again, no white at all is visible until very
careful examination, and some people call those birds ‘ Whole-
feathers,” or yellows or reds respectively; or when they have
a few white markings on the wings and back, as in the
“ Mottled Tumblers” to be presently described, call these
“ Mottles.” Mr. Fulton has, however,* clearly pointed out
the difference, which it is very important to keep in mind,
because these birds are little use for breeding those Whole-
feathers or Mottles to which they seem to belong. On examina-
tion the whiter or Agate blood is found in some of the guidl of

* “ Book of Pigeons” pp. 148, 149.

118 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

the feathers being white, and more or less of the web near the
roots a little grizzled, whereas the true Whole-feather or Mottle
is sound in colour to the root.

The White blood sometimes also comes out in almost white
birds ; but as there is almost always a little colour somewhere,
these too must be termed Agates.

Splashes resemble Almonds in having all three colours;
but differ in having white intermixed with the body feather-
ing, which in Almonds is only black and yellow. They very
often also have one or more of the standard feathers with
white and black only.

True Whole-feathers are also found, and also a kind of dun,
some of which approach yellow in colour, and if so are very
useful in breeding.

Such being the colours that occur in breeding Almonds, it
will be readily understood that it is utterly impossible there
should be any regular rule for matching. The object must
always be to keep up the balance of blood, and as fast as any
deficiency in either of the colours appears, to supply it. To
this end it is necessary that the breeding of the birds be
known, and in default of this the amateur is working in the
dark. Thus, we may have two Almonds it is wished to match
up. Both look very much alike; yet one may be the produce
of a pair which have thrown a predominance of Agates and
Splashes, showing that the lighter colours were getting the
ascendancy; while the other may be the issue of a recent
strong infusion of Kite blood. It is evident the two would
require very different matches. Generally, however, it may be
observed that as all light colours tend to get the upper hand,
more frequent crosses of dark Almonds and Kites are neces-
sary than of the lighter sub-varieties; and also, as a rule,
Agates and light Almonds require pairing with Kites or very
dark Almonds. A Splash, again, may often be mated to
advantage with a Whole-feather, or even a Kite with abundance

TAMPERING WITH THE HEAD. 119

of the bronze or “colour” through the feather. The object
always is to supply the missing element... As a rule the Kites:
with plenty of bronze are much more useful than the nearly
black ones. On the whole, the matches of Almond to dark
Almond or Kite, and of Splashes to various shades of Agates
and Whole-feathers, are most common amongst old breeders.
We trust we have made the general principle plain ; and also
how much depends upon the pedigree or previous breeding.

In relation to other points, and especially points of head
and carriage, we can only insist upon the importance of pairing
the best together, if it be only a few pairs. It is common for
beginners, if they have say ten really fine-headed birds, to try
and pair them with ten other moderate birds. This is lost
time and labour ; whereas if they paired them up as five first-
class pairs, they would probably produce something good. The
policy alluded to is bad in all pigeons; but in Almonds, or
any Short-faced Tumblers, it is simply hopeless, so high is the
standard demanded.

In regard to the heads, however, it is necessary to state
that at one time very few birds were shown whose heads had
not been tampere.l with, an implement of wood like Fig. 24
being pressed into
the bottom of the
forehead daily,
from the time the
bird was a few
days old, till the
skull was “set.” If it was done too severely the young one
died, and many did die: if not thus overdone, and the head at
starting was decently good, the result was a “ grand head and
stop.” ' The process is one of very great cruelty, the skull being
literally crushed into shape, with immediately fatal results in
scores of cases. In many other cases where the bird survived,
it suffered for life; the nostrils being crushed almost together,

Fig. 24,—HEAD-MooLDER.

120 TIIE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

and the eyes squeezed almost out of the head. Many of the
unnaturally prominent eyes seen in Short-faced Tumblers are
due to this cause; as also the constant running and irritation
which gives so much trouble, and is due either to the com-
pression of all the soft contents of the skull, or the closure of
the natural vent through the nostrils. These evils arose from
attaching such exaggerated importance to “head and beak,”
and it was noticed that even before the means used were
generally known, there had been a decline in the number and
character of the breeders of this pigeon, Mr, Fulton’s un-
flinching exposure of these means, as recapitulated here, led to
a great outburst of indignation and to many vehement denials;
and it has lately been statcd that such abuses are things of the
past. We do believe that there has been reaction ; and there
are individual breeders whose assurances that their birds’
heads have never been tampered with we are able to accept
implicitly.. But from what we have seen and known person-
ally in the pigeon fancy, we are altogether unable to share
the amiable belief of the Rev. W. Lumley, as recently
expressed, that such things are no longer practised. We
have personally heard the most solemn assurances to that
effect from men whom we knew to be guilty of them; and
that the plentiful supply of good heads to be seen everywhere
are all genuinely bred, is impossible—the simple fact is that
such birds could not even be hatched in such quantities. So
long as head counts for so much, a point that can be artificially
produced will be so, while the pigeon fancy remains the busi-
ness it does; and only a proper balance of points can ever
restore the old state of things, when the Almond Tumbler was
the chosen pet of men of position and family.

Whole-colowred Short-faces are met with occasionally, though
those called so usually show some Agate blood in the quill
and fluff of the feather, as already explained. By choosing
birds as free as possible from this, however, real whole-feathered

MOTTLED SHORT-FACED TUMBLERS. 12)

reds and yellows have been produced, and can be produced
again. The colour requires keeping up, by breeding the soundest
reds together, and following the same plan with the yellows,
adding an occasional cross from the red.

It is, however, to be noticed, that fixed whole-feathered .
colours, or whole-coloured Agates, bred in this way, cannot be
used in Almond breeding in the same way as those which occur
spontaneously. Their colour being fixed by selection, they tend
too strongly to perpetuate themselves, instead of merely con-
tributing the required element to the Almond mixture. The
same remark applies to Kites. These are often so good in head,
and the colour is so much liked by a few fanciers, that they
too are bred asa Kite strain ; and in this case the Kite pro-
portionately loses its value for Almond breeding.

Mottles, when at all approaching perfection, are very
beautiful birds, especially the black Mottle. They should be
a sound “whole” colour all over, with the exception of the
mottling, which may be either confined to a “rose” of small
white feathers on each shoulder, or there may be added a few
on the back, which are most admired if ranged in symmetrical
lines. The white on the back is termed a “‘ handkerchief” mark.
Some fanciers object to it, and in Mr. Tegetmeier’s book the
black Mottles are shown without it; but Eaton’s work, in the
coloured plate of the same variety, shows the handkerchief
back clearly, and the majority prefer it.

It seems probable, but is not certain, that the mottled
marking may have originally occurred with the other sub-
varieties in breeding Almond Tumblers, and been afterwards
perpetuated by selection. Occasionally Agate Mottles (the
difference between Agates'and true sound colours has been
already explained) are produced even now ; and the best means
of breeding red or yellow Mottles is to match such birds to
real Whole-feathers, mottled or not, and select the best of the

122 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

progeny. At least, this is the best plan if Short-faced blood be
adhered to. But there is often to be found all but perfect
marking among the common Tumblers described in the next
chapter; and as these can sometimes be found even a shade
better in head than what is termed pleasant-faced, a surer way
is to cross with such a strain.

Black Mottles have long been a distinct strain, and we agree
with Mr. Fulton in considering them the most beautiful of the
Short-faced family. Probably no pigeon is so hard to breed, two
main difficulties constantly occurring. The first is of course to
obtain the marking, without too many white feathers, or what is
termed being too gay. Nearly all the birds shown have under-
gone a fearful amount of “ weeding” on this account, and there
is in particular a strong propensity to a white mark on the
forehead, which is termed a “blaze,” and which is sometimes dyed
to hide it. Secondly, the Almond origin shows itself in a strong
propensity to Kite colour, the more so as Kites are almost the
only crosses available. The Kite tinge also is apt to come out
on the head, though it may occur anywhere, especially in the
quill feathers. This Kite colour, then, has to be bred out ;
and this can only be done by avoiding, as far 4s possible,
breeding together two birds possessing it, Sometimes a really
jet-black whole-coloured bird can be obtained, and such will of
course make a valuable cross for black Mottle breeding. The
marking can only be kept even near the right standard by
bearing in mind that the white always tends to increase,
and that a bird at all gay should therefore be matched to a
Whole-feather or dark Kite, while one with enough mottle
should go with one much too dark, or even a whole-coloured
black. The blaze on the face is, however, much the hardest
thing to overcome. That nearly perfect marking is possible
is proved by the success attained in common Tumblers.

Baldheads, like the following, and unlike the preceding

SHORT-FACED BALDHEADS, 123

varieties, are quite a distinct strain from Almonds, at least for
very many years. The bird is so called from its white head ; and
the chief point about this property is that the line dividing the
white feathers from the coloured ones should run straight and
clean across. It is preferred if the line go almost close to
the eye, when the bird is termed ‘“high-cut ;” if the white
extends lower it is called “low-cut,” and is not so valuable.
The pearl eye, head, and beak, should be as in the Almond,
but head and beak are seldom quite so good. Very many of
the birds exhibited, we are sorry to say, are more or less
plucked about the dividing line to make it appear more
even: such plucking should be attentively looked for either
in judging or in purchasing stock. Small foul marks are also
liable to occur just over the eye, and we remember once seeing
one of the very best Balds ever exhibited disqualified for
the removal of a mark of this kind.

Besides the white head, Baldheads are required to be clean-
thighed—in fact, the whole belly is white, the dividing line
here also being desired to run clean across at the bottom of the
breast—white in tail, and as far as possible with ten white
flights in each wing. Here is perhaps the greatest difficulty.
Ten flights are apt’ to be accompanied by a white inner flight,
which is a fault; also with a head too low-cut; while on the.
other hand the lesser quantity of white blood shown in a high-
cut bird tends to come out also in foul marks on the thighs ;
or if not there, almost always in a short number of white flights.
It is therefore common in pigeon reports to read of a Bald being
“eight a side,” or “eight and nine,” which is very good in
flights—in fact, more than is at all usual, and with good head
points enough to win almost anywhere.

Baldheads are bred blue, silver, black, red, and yellow; blues
and silvers being far the most common, and naturally best in
quality. We have seen a few blues and one silver nearly equal
to Almonds in head, eye. and beak ; but we cannot say as much

124 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPEK.

(personally) of any other colour. Blues and silvers are matched
together, as, the tail being white, there is not the evil of white
rump to be dreaded that follows this match in whole-coloured
birds like Dragoons, Blacks are very scarce, and we think might
be improved by matching to both Kites and black Mottles.
Mr. Fulton strongly recommends the first cross, but says nothing
of the second ; whilst we are convinced that the great tendency
to blaze on the face in the Mottle shows some past connection
between the breeds, which would make this cross the easiest
and most effective of any. Reds or yellows might also be paired
to black, if they could be got rich enough in colour, but any
poor red or yellow spoils black completely in all pigeons. Reds
and yellows may be matched as usual: some have crossed
yellows with Almonds with good result. Yellows are far inferior
in effect to either reds, blacks, or blues. We may remark in
conclusion, that it is generally necessary to match a good-headed
Bald to one lower cut, in order to avoid foul thighs and too
small a number of white flights.

Beards have the head all coloured, with the exception of
a crescent-shaped white bib under the beak. Some few people
say that there should be a coloured line down the middle of
this, but we never saw it, and do not believe any one now alive
ever did either. The tail also should be white, like the Bald-
head, and the flights are desired white also, but owing to the
less quantity of white about the head it is particularly difficult
to get them all, few birds having more than seven a side.
Eight and eight is good enough to win almost anywhere if the
other points are good enough. The Beard is usually only
white at the ends of the thighs, or the “stockings,” the belly
being coloured; this difference is also evidently connected
with the less quantity of white about the head, and few
judges would regard whole white thighs as a fault if they
could be got. Head, eye, and beak should resemble those

SHORT-FACED BEARDS, =TG, 125

of the other Short-facéd Tumblers, except that in blues and
blacks the upper mandible is nearly always dark. While,
however, good-headed Balds can be found in the flesh, we
have scarcely ever seen Beards nearly so good in head as the
others of the family. Black Beards could probably be improved
greatly in this respect by judicious matching to black, Kite,
or black-mottled Tumblers, breeding back to the Beard
marking.

Matching for breeding colours, which are known as in the
Baldhead, will follow the hints above given for that breed.
Reds and yellows especially, however, could be vastly improved
in head properties by matching to Whole-feathered birds good
in those points; We may also remark that some fanciers
have matched Balds and Beards together with good results, -
producing thereby excellent progeny of both varieties.

There is, beside the foregoing, rarely met with a Short-
faced Blue Tumbler, whole-coloured except black bars. Most
of them want improvenient as regards head points, but breed
so true to colour that they could be easily developed with a
little care.

Short-faces depend especially, and above all other varieties,
upon good feeders for success ; none of them being able to rear
their own young, unless, perhaps, some of the coarser-headcd
Beards and blues. Two or three pairs of feeders for, each
pair of breeders are therefore needed, and the greatest care
is necessary to put down every date of laying and hatching,
feeders included. Obviously only fine-beaked birds are suit-
able, such as coarse Jacobins, pleasant-faced or common
Tumblers, &c., heavy-beaked birds injuring the young. Young
Almonds’are so delicate that two shifts are often advisable, and
a tame and quiet disposition on the part of the feeders is

absolutely neccssary.

126 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER,

The prominent eyes are apt to give trouble if sawdust is
used in the nest-pan as generally recommended, becoming so
easily irritated. Mr. Eaton strongly advises that the sawdust
be lined with rush-matting steeped in tobacco water, and
shaped by pressing into it the bottom of another pan. This
plan can be recommended. The eyes are also peculiarly
liable to catch cold and discharge. Very often we believe
this is caused by the crushing in of the skull already described ;
but when the cause is cold, a gentle bathing with warm water,
or, still better, warm tea, will give relief.

Short-faces are particularly liable to what is termed “ going
light,” or wasting away. After all, good feeders are the best
preventive against this; but small capsules of cod-liver oil
with quinine are also very useful. Plucking the tail sometimes
assists, but is not so suitable as for other varieties, owing to
the feathers ‘often re-growing of foul colours. With every
precaution, the proportion of losses and deaths is greater
among this class of pigeons than any other; so that Eaton
observes how, when he had hatched a little wonder, he used to
sit absorbed in “ wonder and astonishment ” how he should get
it reared. To hatch early is useless unless the weather be
particularly favourable, and Short-faces should not therefore be
even paired, asa rule, till the early part of April. Artificial
warmth may occur to some; but all experience proves that
the delicacy of the bird is far increased by such means; and
that it is far better in the long run to allow access to the open
air. If, however, “feather” should regain its place, and judges
discourage that tampering with the head which leads to so
many evils, no doubt a considerable portion of the special
delicacy of the Almond would disappear.

Almonds too light in colour are sometimes a little oiled
before exhibition, and we have seen prizes given to birds dis-
gustingly greasy ; but such fraud should be easily detected.
We have already hinted that niuch trimming is also too usual,

COMMON TUMBLERS, 127

and mere odd feathers cannot be detected ; but whole patches

should not fail to “catch the judge’s eye.” We have known

the mottling in Mottles added, or fastened in! To guard

against such practices, every bird chosen for a prize, or any
' purchase, should be carefully overhauled.

CHAPTER X.

COMMON AND PERFORMING TUMBLERS.

THE class of pigeons described in the heading of this chapter is
a very large one, and the division indicated is by no means
well-marked. Probably all were originally actually tumbling
birds; but of late years several divisions have been bred for
feather or marking, and hence have been derived varieties
which are shown in classes for these points, but which very
often neither perform nor possess the head properties of the
Short-faces. Baldheads, Beards, and Mottles are perhaps most
“bred in this bale for the show-pen, Many are what is called
“pleasant-faced,” or with a decided, though moderate, approach to
the short-faced type; and these birds, as already observed, make
admirable feeders for their more delicate relatives described in
the last chapter, and most valuable crosses for improving their
marking. We have scen many mottled birds which were all
but perfect in marking, and also Baldheads and Beards which
left little to be desired. In the neighbourhood of Birmingham
many fanciers prefer the Mottle without what has been already
described as the handkerchief back, and with no other marking
than the mottled shoulder: these are often called Rosewings,
and perfect specimens of these pleasant-faced Mottles or Rose-
wings, whether performers or not, have a considerable local
value. oo,
As regards the breeding of these “marked” birds, nothing
need be added to what is stated in the last chapter. It is

128 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

always necessary to keep down the white, which constantly
tends to encroach or predominate: and hence a bird even
perfectly marked has generally to be matched with one
possessing scarcely enough white; whilst too “gay” a Mottle
may have to be matched to a Whole-feather, and too heavily-
marked a Beard, or too low-cut a Baldhead, to birds with a
short number of flights or with slightly foul thighs. It may,
however, be added that there are strains of Beards which do not
tumble, but which are capital long distance flyers, being very
fast and sure up to over a hundred miles. These long-faced
flying Beards, however, are seldom so good as pleasant-faced,
but more approach in head the type of the German Toys.

Of actual twmbling pigeons there are several varieties, even
in performance, which are well understood and specially culti-
vated in some neighbourhoods, particularly those of Neweastle
and Birmingham. It is first to be understood that the
“tumble” is a complete backward somersault in the air.
Tipplers throw only one such at a time, but repeat such
detached performances frequently during their flight. Tum-
blers often make two, three, or more backward revolutions
without stopping. And lastly, there is the true Birmingham
Roller, which turns over backwards with inconceivable rapi-
dity through a considerable distance, like a spinning ball.
These are varieties of what may be termed strictly flying
Tumblers, the performance being gone through whilst the birds
fly in mid-air, and often at a very great height; but there are
also what are termed house Tumblers, which spring up a few
inches from the floor of the loft, turn one complete somersault,
and alight on their feet again. Some of these birds will also
tumble many times while flying in the loft or aviary. Finally,
Mr. Tegetmeier has described, under the name of Lowtan, or
Lotan, a very peculiar variety of Tumbler, cultivated in India,
These birds do not tumble of their own accord, but are taken
by the neck between two fingers, given a slight shake, and

ORIGIN OF TUMBLING IN PIGEONS. 129

placed on the ground, when they roll over and over as if ina
fit, the natives stating that if not taken up they would continue
to do so until they died; though one of Mr. Tegetmeier’s cor-
respondents found that the only bird he allowed to go on
unchecked stopped itself at last from exhaustion. A sub-
variety of these birds is said to tumble, or rather roll, when
tapped on the head with the point of the finger.

These facts open up a very interesting question as to the
origin of the tumbling propensity. Mr. Tegetmeier observes
that the various eccentric movements included in it “ obviously
depend on an extra irritability of the nervous system,” and
suggests a comparison that appears just between them and the
involuntary tremulous motion in the neck of a Fantail. Some
have maintained, on the other hand, that tumbling is voluntary
and the result of training, and a source of pleasure to the birds.
There is some reason for this view of the case in the fact that
a well-trained flight of birds will often go through their
performances in evident concert, and so close together that it
is almost impossible to conceive they would not come into
collision unless they had control over their movements. It is
also noticed that when a bird has been away some miles from
home, on its return to its mate the pair will often go through a
regular performance, as if in joy at the re-union. So much also
depends upon judicious treatment and training, that it is
natural owners and breeders should attribute the performances
of their birds to this cause.

In our opinion, the only tenable hypothesis is that advanced
by Mr. Henry Kesteven, M.R.C.S.,* the evidence for which
may be shortly stated and is of unusual weight. This view
attributes tumbling to some form of epilepsy. On closely watch-
ing Tumblers, it is seen that the act of tumbling consists in a
violent spasm of the muscles of the back, which is bent into the
form of an aré, while the wings at the same time strike together

* See Live Stock Journal, May 31st and. August 30th, 1878,
I

130 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

across the back. It is evidently a convulsive muscular spasm
of some kind, and this is the predominating feature of epilepsy,
which we also know may be excited by many causes. Now it
is well known that good Birmingham “rollers,” if in descending
they strike or come in contact with anything, such as a chimney,
are very often converted into what are called “mad” Tumblers,
whose tumbling is perfectly uncontrollable. The analogy between
these and the poor Indian birds which roll over and over when
shaken by the neck or tapped on the head can easily be seen.
It has also been observed that “house” Tumblers will often
show a perceptible dread of the performance, sitting for hours
on some point and not daring to leave it, and trying to hide
away from the owner, whom.they know as making them attempt
the task. It is also known that an epileptic condition is most
strongly hereditary, and itis easy to understand how it may
have arisen in confinement. The mere catching of pigeons is
likely to produce such a condition in individuals, and all birds
in partial confinement aie apt to develop a nervous irritability
not natural tothem. In this way it is easy enough to understand
how tumbling may have been first acquired, and then developed
and transmitted.

The probability of this hypothesis appears more strong when
some other circumstances are considered, though some of them
have even been urged as objections to it. It has, for instance,
been asked why tumbling is confined to one branch of the
pigeon family, The reply is that it is not so, strictly speaking.
Mr. Kesteven found a pure Antwerp cock which tumbled, and
some other stray individuals have been reported; and the
Oriental Rollers, to be presently mentioned, show us another and
distinct family remarkable for tumbling. It is also said that
there appears no exciting cause for the convulsive attacks which
it is supposed constitute tumbling ; but it is obvious that either
rapid ascent in the air, or the quickened circulation caused by
Hying, would be abundantly capable of supplying the necessary

TUMBLING NOT PAINFUL. 131

slimulus. Still more conclusive, however, is the fact, so well
known to all Birmingham trainers, that if Rollers are allowed
unlimited liberty their performance deteriorates, and may even
altogether cease ; which is precisely what might be expected if,
as we have supposed, the epileptic tendency has been developed
by semi-confinement or other exciting causes. Unchecked
liberty in such a case, it might be supposed, would tend to
restore the nervous system to a normal state, and it does so.’
We can also understand how many varieties of ‘“‘ Tumblers”
have lost, for want of cultivation, all propensity to tumble.

Mr. Kesteven, however, ascertained one more fact, which
may almost be deemed final, and must certainly be so if sup-
ported by other observations. He submitted the brain of a young
Baldhead Tumbler to microscopic examination, and the result
was the discovery that the coats of the blood-vessels were
thickened, indicating irregular and unnatural blood-pressure.
These appearances are about the only constant sign of epilepsy
in the human brain.

We regard it, therefore, as beyond any reasonable doubt
that tumbling is a symptom of some form of epileptic disease ;
but it by no means follows that all tumbling is entirely in-
voluntary or a cause of suffering to the birds. The same
nervous sensibilities which give most pleasure are capable, in
different degree, of causing severe suffering ; and it is also well
known that actions which are ordinarily of the character of
disease, by frequent repetition become habits, and afford a
measure of enjoyment, besides coming to a certain extent
under control, Even the line between voluntary and involun-
tary is not definite; for taking a case strikingly akin to the
present, it is notorious that hysterical fits are in hundreds of
cases entered upon in a more or less voluntary manner, though
when unchecked they pass beyond the control of the patient
and occasion suffering. It is therefore conceivable that even
convulsive action of an epileptic nature may assume a form not

132 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

only partially controllable, but capable of giving pleasure , and
observation tends to confirm this view of the case. If the poor
ground Tumbler never tumbles voluntarily, and the house
Tumbler shows signs of fear and dread, it is no less true that
the real flying Tumbler shows every sign of eagerness and joy
at starting on those atrial flights which ¢f also must know by

Rost wine orn Mortye, SADDLE.

MUFF-LEGGED FLYING TUMBLERS.

experience give stimulus to the spesmodice action. The delight
of the one is as obvious as the dread of the other ; and while
the man of real humanity should hesitate to cultivate a form of
disease which in the house Tumbler evidently causes suffering
and fear, he need not hesitate to maintain those other forms
which, according to all the evidence accessible, afford sensations
of the most pleasurable character.

The varieties of form and colour in flying Tumblers are
endless, and they are so crossed as seldom to breed true.
Mottles and Rosewings are occasionally bred by themselves ;

BREEDING FLYING TUMBLERS. 133

but performance is most studied, as in Homing pigeons. There
are also solid or self-coloured birds, and mottled birds in which
the colours are intermingled all over the body. There are
Whitesides, in which all is coloured except the sides of ‘the
wings; Saddles, in which the flights are white as well, also the
thighs and lower breast—in fact, the same as a Magpie exactly;
Grizzles, and all kinds of odd colours and markings. All these
(and more) are found both clean and feather-legged. Our
illustration shows a muff-legged Mottle, and a Saddle or
Magpie-marked bird.

The birds being generally paired to preserve a given
style of performance, it is needless and impossible to give
directions for mating, beyond the general principle that if any
selection at all bé desired in colour and marking some suita-
bility in matching should be studied ; such as putting a good
red to a good black, and heavily-pied markings to each other,
and not to mixed Mottles or Grizzles. Good performers of
the ordinary type are generally wide at the shoulders and
chest, and very narrow at the rump; also somewhat short
in the back, which often exhibits signs of hollowness, as
might be expected. The eyes are pearly white, and the fore-
head rather high, though without the decided “stop” which
has been deserepet in the Short-faces.

In addition to the Flying Tumblers familiar to English
fanciers, Mr. Ludlow has described, under the name of
“Oriental Rollers,” a quite distinct and very remarkable
variety, cultivated in Greece, Turkey, and Asia Minor, of which
several specimens have on one or two occasions been imported.
They are found of all colours, including a kind of almond
feather ; and the whole-coloured blacks are remarkable for two
points, which distinguish them from ordinary black pigeons.
The first is an extraordinary iridescent lustre, which extends
throughout the body, somewhat like the bronze in an

134 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KkiPEk,

Archangel ; and the second that the beaks are white, or with
only a touch of black on the very tip. The general pccu-
liarities of the birds Mr. Ludlow describes as follows :—

“On reference to the accompanying representation it will.
be seen that they are in appearance also somewhat novel, and
dissimilar to our English breed. The beak is not, as in most
Tumblers, of a dove or ‘spindle’ character, but straight, and
moderately thick and strong. Nor does the head possess the
high crown or projecting forehead so common amongst our
native Tumblers ; but it is rather long, yet nicely in keeping
with the peculiar elongated hollow back and narrow form of
the bird ; the neck is rather short, the legs also short, and the
eye of a ‘pearl’ colour. I may say that great length and
hollowness from neck to tip of tail is a most desirable feature,
and such is (apart from a trial) one of the best signs of quality.
The entire length, as I have said, should be long; still the back
itself is actually short. The birds possess an elasticity of form
which is quite uncommon, and whilst trotting about in search
of food, é&c., or after taking a refreshing draught, they will
raise their tails, and thus hollow their backs to a strange de-
gree. Another remarkable feature in them is that the little
pointed oil-gland, immediately above the tail (common to
poultry and most kinds of pigeons), is not to be found in any
pure birds of this breed, which is quite destitute of this common
characteristic.

“The tail also is peculiar and quite uncommon. It is long,
and composed of from fourteen to twenty-two feathers, sixteen
being about the average number in these birds; these are
arranged equally on either side, one above another, and the
two top ones, diverging a little outwards, show a slight division
in the tail, but there is not the slightest affinity or resemblance
to a ‘fan’ tail, as some might suppose by the excessive number
of feathers, but it is a distinct peculiarity of this breed (twelve
being the normal number of tail-quills in most pigeons), The

ORIENTAL ROLLERS.

fRainine fixIna TUMBLERS. 137

greater the number of quills in ‘Oriental Rollers’ the more the
specimens are valued. A further singular feature noticeable in
the tails of these birds is that occasionally two feathers may be
found growing from one quill, separating at its pithy junction
as a twin feather, each rather narrower than ordinarily, but of
the usual length, and not outgrown, or causing a disordered
formation of the tail.”

We learn from Mr. Ludlow that a pair or two of these
birds are usually kept and flown with a flock of other pigeons.
When let out they fly apart for awhile until their companions
have attained a good height, when they assume and keep a
position directly over them, and begin a most extraordinary
series of evolutions, mounting as high as possible, and
“rolling ” down to the flock beneath, thence re-mounting to
repeat the performance.

Very much depends upon the judicious training of Flying
- Tumblers, and especially as regards Rollers. Many of these
latter birds have been purchased, and being turned out at
liberty have by degrees entirely lost their performing powers,
and caused much unjust suspicion. The probable reason for
this result we have already seen ; and it may be well, therefore,
to give a few hints as to the training and treatment necessary
to rear and keep a flight in good working condition.

Many young birds, when they first begin to manifest the
propensity, cannot tumble completely over, but fall backwards
in a very awkward manner from want of confidence. In this
case, if the tail be shortened or the centre feathers plucked, it
will cause less resistance, and the young bird will probably be
able to get over without difficulty. With practice the habit
will be confirmed ; and as the tail gradually grows it will not
interfere with the tumbling. Many good birds have had to be
helped in this way.

The great point-in all flying and training is to see that the

138 Pik PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

birds are always at work when they are out of doors. To securé
this object it is usual to let them out before feeding, morning
and evening. The area, or starting-place, should be as high as
possible, and the birds thrown well up, or hurried up by clap-
ping or waving a flag at starting, and let in again to be fed as
soon as they come down. If flown with food in their crops they
are much more likely to settle on roofs or chimneys ; and when
a Flying Tumbler has once acquired this habit it is spoilt as a
performer. Besides this, in turning over the food is liable to
be thrown up from the crop into the throat, and thus choke the
bird, several cases of which accident have become known to us.
If the birds do not fly freely, or want to come down at once,
they should be kept in for several days, and only liberated on
some clear bright day, when the fine weather and long confine-
ment will dispose them to take more exercise. Whenever they
settle they must be frightened or driven off, but allowed to feed
as soon as ever they come in; and by steadily following this
system the birds soon get into the habit of spending all the
time they are in the open air upon the wing. When in regular
training, it is best to fly them twice a day, in the morning and
evening, giving them a light feed after the morning fly, and as
much as they like after their fly at night. Itis also necessary
to see that only good flyers are let out together, as lazy birds,
or “ pitchers,” may corrupt the whole flock. It is also neces-
sary, when they are up in the air, to avoid anything that may
tempt them to descend, unless they are really wanted in.
Only in the evening, after they have come in and had their
feed, may they be occasionally allowed a little liberty on the
roof, when they will pick up “scour” and otherwise make good
use of their time.

Flights are very often lost during fog, snow, rain, or high
winds, if these come on suddenly while they are up—for, of
course, the birds would not be liberated in such weather. It is
well always to have a reserve of a few birds at home, which iu

os

tiixts of tRAiNING. 139

case of emergency may be sent up after the others and decoy
them home; for this purpose they are all the better if poor flyers,
or not, strictly speaking, flyers at all, the only object being for
them to reach the others, and then, if possible, return at once.
It is, in fact, very dangerous to have birds fly ‘too well. By

_careful and regular practice they may easily be got to fly for
several hours together ; and if while they are up a strong wind
rises or 2 slight mist comes up, leaving the sky clear overhead,
they will often be lost altogether. For these reasons, when
they have once been well trained it is well to get them into as
heavy flesh as possible, and to divide the flight so as to fly
them on alternate days or fewer, when they will not be disposed
to fly so long.

It is early enough to turn out young Tumblers at three or
four months old, and the plan usually followed is to toss two
or three at a time, along with the same number of old ones
kept back for that purpose, into the flight as they are returning
after a fly. The toss-up of the fresh birds will generally set off
the whole lot again for a few minutes, which will give the
young ones practice, and gradually accustom them to flying and
tumbling. Some young birds develop the tumbling propensity
very fast, and others much later; and it not unfrequently
happens that the later-developed ones make the best performers
in the end. But there must always be a strict drafting, and
every bird found to be an idler, after fair and due trial, must
be got rid of if the quality of the loft is to be preserved.

In starting a new flight of Tumblers, we should advise first
getting a few common Dragoons or Antwerps accustomed to
fly round the locality. Then let young Tumblers be either pur-
chased or bred, and, when strong enough, let them ont for half
an hour each day, hungry, so that they will not go far, but
only learn to observe the neighbourhood. They can easily be
tempted in with a little food. Then shut them up a day or
two, after which let them fly with the Dragoons or Antwerpa

140 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER

for a week or fortnight, always getting them in directly they
return. The Dragoons will teach them their way about, and
after that should be shut up or parted with, as longer com-
panionship might spoil the Tumblers. The subsequent training
will proceed as before. One or two Cumulets, if they can be
got, will be useful in getting the Tumblers to fly high.

To recapitulate briefly, the principles of training are simply
these :—1. They are only let out at first every three or four
days, in order that the confinement may dispose them to fly
actively directly they are liberated. As that habit is confirmed
they are let out oftener, till they may have a morning and
evening fly, if convenient, every day. 2. They are let out
fasting, in order that they may return instantly the disposition
to exertion is over; and fed immediately to keep up this habit.
The reasons for feeding lightly after the morning fly are
obvious, as also for never liberating them when there are other
birds about to tempt them to pitch—at least, in the early stages.
Beyond this system, nothing is necessary beyond weeding out
all unsatisfactory or lazy birds. It may, however, be remarked
that all this training is directed towards “ flying” simply ; the
tumbling is developed as the young bird grows, and if the stock
be good will come of itself by association and habit.

In exhibiting Tumblers the chief points are, of course,
purity and richness of colour and regularity of markings.

CHAPTER XI.
POUTERS.

TueERE is little doubt as to the origin of this pigeon, though it
has given rise to some dispute. Moore, who describes the
English Pouter in 1735 precisely as we do, distinctly states
that it was bred by crossing the “Dutch Cropper” to a Horse-

ORIGIN OF THE POUTER. 141

man, a long-bodied and long-feathered bird. The Cropper
seems to have been the origin of a tribe of several varieties, and
to have been remarkable only for a large inflated crop and
feathered legs ; differing from our Pouter in having the thighs
wide apart, and having no upright carriage. Mr. Ure cannot
see* “how such a cross could produce a bird like the English
Pouter,” and says that Moore “does not speak from his own
personal experience;” but this is a purely gratuitous assump-
tion, and an objection to his account which nothing in the text
justifies. It is at least more likely that the cross with a long-
feathered bird sliould have improved length of body and
feather, besides making the bird close-thighed, as Moore
actually affirms it did, than thatthe bird was produced solely
by breeding up the Dutch Cropper alone, recognised as a
distinct variety by Moore himself ; and we do know positively
that long since his time the cross with a Runt has been
employed repeatedly in Pouter breeding to give size, the
consequent thickness of girth having to be bred out again.
Moore’ writes contemporaneously, as of a matter he was
perfectly familiar with, that “this pigeon, which was first
bred in England, and is therefore called the English Pouter, is
originally a mixed breed between a Horseman and a Cropper,
and by matching their young ones over and over to the
Cropper, experience teaches us it will'add a wonderful beauty to
this bird, and raise in it the five following properties.” Nothing
can be plainer, and we may add that nothing is so inherently
probable. ;

Of the allied varieties mentioned, the Cropper is already
alluded to: it seems to have had no property but a very large
crop, produced (no one knows how) by developing the power all
pigeons have to some extent of inflating the crop with air.
We have seen signs of the same power in fowls and once in a
blackbird. The Parisian Pouter, Moore says, resembled a Pouter,

* “Pook of Pigeons,” p. 97.

142 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER,

but was long-cropped and not large, short-bodied, short-legged,
and thick in girth: its peculiarity lying in the plumage, which
resembled fine Irish stitch, chequered with various colours in
every feather. The Uploper resembled an English Pouter in
all but size, which was small, the legs particularly so, and
derived its name from the cock’s habit of leaping towards the
hen. Lastly, he refers to the Pouting Horseman, a cross kept
up to improve Pouters from time to time by making them
close-thighed. All these varieties seem to have disappeared,
except so far as the smaller of them may have helped in the
manufacture of Pigmy Pouters.

The London weavers generally have the credit of bringing
the Pouter to perfection; but although we do not wish to
disturb the old traditions which give them this honour, we
think it right to put on record the fact that many inquiries
have traced the Pouter fancy very far back indeed to the city
of Norwich, though it has long since departed thence in favour
of Canaries. That Pouters—and first-class ones too—were bred
in Norwich very long ago we think there is no doubt, and
from thence the fancy spread to Great Yarmouth ; but whether
or not Norwich ante-dated the Spitalfields silk-weavers, no
information we have been able to obtain can determine. It is,
however, certain that ata later date, with the ruin of their
handicraft, the London weavers had to part with their birds,
which have since been kept up mainly by Scotch fanciers, The
Pouter is, in fact, the favourite pigeon in Scotland, where
it is bred in immense numbers. For years the variety was
quite neglected in London, only Mr. Volckman cultivating
it for a short time; but of late it has been taken up by Mr.
Gresham, Captain Hill, and others, and rarely fails to be well
represented at the shows of the National Peristeronic Society.

The properties of the Pouter—as such, and apart from
colour—are described by Moore as exactly the same now
known ; but modern fanciers differ from him in the order of

JHE BLACK-PIED POUTER.

PROPERTIES OF THE POUTER. 145

relative importance. This will be seen by the tollowing table
of the properties, as placed by different authorities.

Moore. Tegetmeier. Fulton and Ure.
. Length of body. 1. Length of limb. 1. Length of limb.
. Length of legs. 2. Length of feather. | 2. Slendernessof girth.
: Neatness of crop. 8. Slendernessof body. | 8. Crop.
. Slendernessof girth. | 4. Size andcar.of crop. | 4. Length of feather.
. Beauty of feather. | 6, Colour. 5. Colourand marking.

oO Pm & Ro

It will be seen that all modern writers agree in valuing
length of limb most and colour least—in the last following
Moore—but differ in all the rest. We prefer the order of the
two Scotch authorities of those above; but, as far as we can
follow the judging of late years, our impression is that crop
now comes next to limb, and we shall therefore enumerate the
properties as:—1. Limb; 2. Crop; 3. Slenderness of body; 4.
Length of feather ; 5. Colour and marking.

The “limb,” or leg, requires to be long, properly placed and
shaped, and properly feathered. The length is measured by
pressing the back of a pen-knife or similar article close against
the top of the thigh, stretching out the whole as far as possible
without pain, and measuring from the blade to the very end
of the toe-nail. A difference in “ pull” will add an eighth of
an inch, so that fanciers pull pretty tight; and a long nail
will also make a difference, on which account we have often
thought it would be fairer to measure to the root of the
toe-nail. In practice, however, birds are only measured in
judging when it is a very fine point, but are taken by the
eye as they stand in the pen with others: the only way in
which it is possible to judge fairly the many points of a
Pouter. A bird seven inches in length is first-rate so far as
length goes, and very rarely is an extra eighth or quarter
attained. Much of the apparent length depends on the shank
being long in proportion to the thigh, and the foot being well set
on; and.a good Pouter fancier will attach more importance

K

146 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

to this than to an eighth of an inch or more in mere actual
length. :

As to shape and position, the thigh must have a fair
amount of muscle, and the whole limbs be placed pretty close
together. They must not be too bent at the hock, which is
being cow-hocked, nor, on the other hand, be quite straight,
which looks loose and weak. The hocks should be turned
slightly in and the toes slightly out. In regard to feather,
the thighs and shanks should be well covered with soft, rather
small feathers, longer feathers spreading well out at the toes.
The faults here are being scant or almost bare; or, on the
other hand, furnished with flaggy feathers and more or less
vulture-hocked.

The “crop” is to be as spherical as possible, and carried
exactly even, and not on one side, as is sometimes the case ;
on these conditions size of crop is a merit. It should be
capable of being fully inflated, and not so over large as to
then bulge behind the bird. It should also carry up well, so
as on the one hand to bury the beak on top, and on the
other to flow easily into the lines of the body below. A crop
‘carried low often shows a nick or angle at its junction with
the breast, and this fault is heavy odds in a pen against a
bird when its opponent is good in this point.

Slenderness of girth, or of body round the shoulders, is
one of the most attractive properties. A first-class Pouter
appears surprisingly small in the hand on this account. Of
course the age of the bird has something to do with it, all
Pouters getting somewhat stouter with each year ; and it also
depends (so far, at least, as appearance of it goes) very much
upon the wings being clipped up tight at the shoulders: a
point in which age also tells to disadvantage, especially in
hens which have bred. To show this point well a Pouter
must be slightly hollow in the back, the want of which is
called being “‘hog-backed.” It is this property which was

IMPORTANCE OF PROPORTION. 147

chiefly lost in crossing with the Runt to gain size; and it
needs more attention yet than it sometimes receives.

“Length of feather,” or of body, as Moore called it, is
measured (when measured at all) by stretching a tape over
the head, from the point of the beak to the end of the tail.
In old days Pouters were usually judged in this way, and
many have been bred over twenty inches; but this property
has long been relegated into a position subordinate to length
of limb. It will be obvious, on reflection, that if the tail be
too long in proportion to the limbs, it must, by encountering
the floor, tip the bird forward, preventing that statuesque and
upright carriage which is so much admired. Formerly Poutcis
were judged standing on a block, which is still used to d's
play their carriage. In that position the tail can hang down
below the level of the feet; but as soon as the birds came to
be judged on the flat floor of a large pen this advantage was
taken away, and tail became necessarily subordinate to due
proportion—a most happy thing for any pigeon. It will be
found that it requires about a seven-inch limb to carry even
nineteen inches in feather; and this property has therefore
seldom to be measured for. Sometimes the flights are short
in proportion to the tail, which is a blemish, and spoils the
symmetry of the bird.

“Colour and marking” come last, but are much needed
to set off a good bird, though the best cannot make a Pouter.
There are five recognised standard colours, viz.: “ Pieds” in
black, blue, red, and yellow; and Whites. The last are
pure all over, and need no remark; and as they are less
trouble to breed, do not in open competition stand sv high as
the Pied varieties. These are of the colour they are pied with
—black, blue, red, or yellow—over the whole body generally,
with the exception of a crescentic white mark on the crop,
which is desired as even in shape as possible. The round patch of
colour which forms the top of this is called the “bib,” and if it

148 TILE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

is absent, so that the white crescent reaches the throat, or if
there be white in it or above it under the throat at all, the
bird has the fault of being “swallow-throated.” If, again, the
white crescent, whose horns should stop at the sides of the
neck, reaches round behind, it is “‘ring-necked,” another great
blemish. Finally, some birds—especially black Pieds, have a
white mark on the head or, forehead, which is called a “snip”
or snip-mark, and is also a blemish. The colour ends on the
breast, a little below the crop, where the under parts (including
the limbs) become white to the under part of the rump. The
flights are also white, the rest of the wing coloured, except a
few white feathers on the shoulders. These should be arranged
like the rose on a Mottled Tumbler; but this is very rare,
and it is sufficient if they be few and detached. If too many
the bird is too “ gay,” and if the white runs to the edge of the
wing it is “bishopped,” or “lawn-sleeved.” It is very rare
indeed to see both wings perfect in marking. In blue and
black Pieds the tail is coloured; but in reds and yellows it
is white, though usually a. little foul here and there. Why
this should be so’is rather puzzling, as the colours have been
often crossed and the other markings are the same. The
feathers on the crop of blues and blacks show most brilliant
metallic reflections.

Every colour has its special difficulties in breeding, perhaps
the black Pied most of all, for which reason most fanciers value
it most. The pinion-marking in this colour is often very good ;
but snips are very apt to occur; and above all is the extra-
ordinary propensity to “foul thighs,” or black or grey feathers
where all should be pure white. They are also apt to be thick.
or runtish in shape. For these reasons blacks are matched to
blues; but the cross is bad, the result being mostly chequers,
or bad-coloured birds. A much better plan is to throw in the
red, which is generally a clean-thighed colour. By matching
a red cock to a black hen there are always produced some

BREEDING FOR COLOUR. 149

birds of a peculiar reddish-grey mixture, which English breeders
eall “Strawberry colour,” and Scotchmen “Sandies.” Both
colours—the red particularly—must be good; and if a sandy
from such a cross be matched again to a black at all decent,
the result, according to both Mr. Ure and Mr. Fulton, is generally
satisfactory. Dark chequers bred from blacks and blues are -
useful if no better offers; but every one who has tried it
considers red the best cross.

Blues are bred together. They breed also lighter blues of
a silver tint, and lightish blues with brown or kite bars instead
of the desired black bars. Such kite-barred birds are termed
“silver-mealies” by Scotch breeders, and it is singular that they
often.surpass the blues in length of limb and feather. They:
accordingly make most valuable crosses for blues, but any
other cross is apt to injure the colouring; and there are, in
particular, many blues about of a most disagreeable smoky
tinge, owing to a cross with the black. These dark birds are
generally runtish, and should be discouraged. The great
difficulty in breeding blues is a tendency to get too “gay.”
The birds tend to be short of bib, or bishopped, or ring-necked,
&c. Such birds must always be matched to such as are short
of white, or the result will be white splashes, downright
swallow-throat, white shoulders, and faults of that sort.

Reds and yellows are most scarce—good ones are rare
indeed. The difficulty with them is the colour, which is
washed out or mealy. We must refer to Mr. Fulton’s large’
work for detailed notes on these colours, only observing that he
condemns the breeding of red and yellow together as spoiling
both, and advises breeding matured reds together as the best
means of improving the colour. When such matching produces
a good yellow, as it sometimes will, that is the best cross for a
yellow; or a red may also be crossed with a yellow; but in
that case this great Scotch authority warns us against ever
using even a red of the progeny, however good in colour, to

150 THR PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

cross back with reds. To doing so he attributes the loss of
colour in red Pouters, and insists on all birds with yellow
blood being kept to cross with yellows alone.

In whites the chief difficulty is size. Colour gives no
difficulty ; and this colour is naturally more slim in body than
any. But this very fact, with the other fact that crosses from
other colours are not needed so far as colour goes, tends to
reduce the size. On this account it is sometimes necessary to
cross with light mealies or silvers, or with the splashes thus
produced. After such a cross foul marks are liable to occur
for some time, especially if the crossed blood be matched on
both sides. There is, however, a “ danger signal” in regard to
this point. White Pouters have light beaks and “bull” eyes,
like nearly all white pigeons. As long as these points are
right there is little risk of foul marks; but a dark beak or
orange eye betrays the lingering of active foreign blood, and
must only be matched to birds of orthodox head-points.

All sorts of splashes and mis-marked birds are used in
crossing by Scotch fanciers, but not so much as formerly,
standard birds being more plentiful than they were. In using
them, it is chiefly necessary to see that they are crossed back
to their allied colours, and it is therefore particularly important
to know their pedigree.

Leg-feathering needs constant attention—matching birds
too heavily feathered with those too thinly furnished. For
detailed directions on this point, illustrated by diagrams of
different degrees in feather, we must refer to Mr. Fulton’s
great work. It is necessary, however, to state that it rarely
answers to go on breeding the correct amount of feather
together, for the reason that heavy feather seems very much a
sign of coarse vigour (which needs to be kept up in this pigeon
particularly), and must therefore be bred from occasionally.

It is, however, much easier to breed colour and feather than
to keep up the quality of the Pouter as such. It will be readily

DIFFICULTIES IN POUTER BREEDING. 151

«nderstood that such length as is desired can only be main-
tained by great strength, and the difficulty is much increased
by the desire for slimness of girth, a strong large bird tending
to be coarse. Again, the extreme length of limb naturally
tends to make the legs weak as the young bird grows; and
probably some of the finest limbs ever bred have never been
reared so as to be able to stand. The only means of over-
coming these difficulties: we must now briefly point out. The
first is constant infusion of new blood, which in Pouters
cannot be dispensed with, unless the breeder has a very wide
stock ; and, for reasons just stated, this should occasionally be
given in the shape of coarse, heavily-feathered birds, but always
looking for a good length of shank. The vulture-hocks need
shortening during the breeding season. A second means is to
rear each promising bird singly under a pair of proved hearty
feeders, such as large Dragoons or Antwerps. And lastly, great
benefit will be found from giving euch bird every morning and
evening a bolus, made of oatmeal and bone-dust, mixed up with
a few drops of Parrish’s compound syrup of phosphate of iron,
or what is equally good, simple syrup of hypophosphite of lime.
‘As the birds grow they should have plenty of exercise in a
good aviary.

Pouters need careful training to show to advantage. They
should always be accustomed to be taken up and talked to, so
as to lose all fear; but ss soon as they are nearly through moult,
those to be exhibited are regularly drilled. Each bird is placed in
ahigh pen with a block in the centre of its floor, and so arranged
that a cock and hen may be suddenly allowed to see each other.
Every time the owner visits them, which must be often, he
calls to them with the peculiar Pouter call,* and perhaps also

* This is variously described, and, indeed, different individuals do not use
precisely the same. Some pronounce it hua, hua; others hee-he, hee-he ; and
others hoo-te, hoo-ie. We have heard it surmised that a celebrated Scotch

fancier derives his name from traditional connection with Pouter breeding ;
and a well-known writer certainly spells.the call as huce, huig.

152 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER

snaps his fingers or waves his hand before the pen, at the same
time allowing the two birds to see each other. They naturally
“play up,” and gradually learn to associate the presence of
man and the call with agreeable company, so that they will
play on being challenged ; but no other bird should be in sight
except whilst the owner is training, or they will be restless
and sulk. Particular care must be taken never to point the
finger at them and allow them to peck at it. Some inex-
perienced amateurs do so, and the result is that the bird gets
the habit and will never afterwards show at all. Many a fine
bird has lost all chance in this way.

Pouters are rather subject to over-gorging, both with food
and water. The old remedy for this is to place the bird ina
stocking that fits it rather tightly and keeps the crop well up,
and to hang the stocking on a nail in the wall, kneading the
crop now and then with the fingers till emptied. The bird
must be kept in a pen for some days afterwards, and fed care-
fully and sparingly. Ifa bird has become gorged several times
the crop is apt to become chronically loose and pendulous, for
which the only remedy is to cut a piece entirely out, and sew
carefully up again, the two skins separately. It is very
difficult in this operation to so preserve the symmetry of the
crop that the bird can be exhibited again ; but a fine bird may
thus be saved for breeding.

Pouters require the largest size of breeding-places and nest-
pans. If shelves are employed, they should be fourteen inches
wide and eighteen inches apart ; and the nest-pans, the largest
size made. This pigeon, however, on the average, really does
breed best upon the floor.

Pigmy Pouters appear to have been first produced by Sir
John Sebright, so well known also for his extraordinary success
in producing dwarf poultry. Eaton writes of him:—“ After his
death I was at the sale of his bantams and pigeons. I was

PIGMY POUTERS. 153

surprised, on looking at his Pouters, how it was possible he
could have reduced the English Pouters down to such little
Lilliputians, or multum in parvo Pouter, possessing in an
elegant degree all the properties of the English Pouter.” The
breed was, however, subsequently lost; and to Mr. Tegetmeier
chiefly belongs the credit of reviving it, which we believe he
did by working upon the small varieties of pouting pigeons pro-

ISABEL. Picmy Pourrr.

sluced by the German fanciers. These are numerous, and nearly
all possess fair crops, but nearly all are destitute of limb pro-
perties: the legs being generally short, and either bare or
heavily feathered and hocked, the latter type being known as
Isabels. The latter have often pretty “Toy” markings, such
as the white bars shown in the illustration, but are generally
low in carriage. By matching the two extremes of leg-feather
together a correct standard in that respect’ was easily at
command ; but length of limb and upright carriage presented
great difficulty, and much more did the orthodox English
pied marking, which was unknown to the German birds. By

154 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

crossing with Pieds, however, these difficulties have been over.
come, and we have seen birds exhibited of late which offered a
really close approximation to the English blue-pied Pouter in
miniature.

Birds shown as Pigmy Pouters must, of course, be judged
by Pouter points. The German varieties are judged by attrac-
tiveness in appearance and perfection of colour and markings,
All of these varieties are hardy and good breeders. The chief
difficulty is to keep them small, as they constantly tend to
throw back, like Bantams, to their larger ancestry. For this
reason there is not the difficulty in finding fresh blood which
is encountered in regular Pouter breeding; on the contrary, in-
breeding is of direct benefit in reducing size, and slimness may
be sought to any extent. The birds are simply rare because
little fancied ; were they bred largely, they would be much
easier to produce good in points than the larger birds, Those
who wish to breed them should cross with in-bred, and there-
fore small and slim standard birds, in-breeding the produce till
the desired result is attained.

CHAPTER XII.
FANTAILS.

Tue Fantail seems to come most naturally next to the Pouter,
both being of late so much associated with Scotland. There is,
however, not the slightest doubt that this pigeon came from
India, where it is still well known, and whence many importa-
tions have been made of late years; American fanciers
particularly having several times imported direct from
Calcutta. ‘

At one time this pigeon was divided into two distinct
classes, each admired by a distinct school of fanciers, wno
cultivated what were known respectively as English and

TYPES OF FANTAILS. 155

Scotch Fantails. The English school argued from the name of
Fantail that a wide-spread tail must be the cardinal property,
and aimed to develop that at all costs. The result was the
almost utter loss of what are called carriage and motion, and
the development of a huge tail carried forward, almost flat,
over the back, like a
pot-lid; and to this type
all the prizes went, fora
time, at English shows.
On the other hand, the
breeders of the truer
type, or Scotch Fantail,
undoubtedly at one
time too much dis-
regarded tail, though
this fault has now been
remedied.

Perhaps the two
types have always co-
existed to some extent;
and the argument which
led English breeders ;
astray would never Scorcy Fanrar,
have been listened to
had amateurs attended more to the faithful guidance of old
Moore. He knows the pigeon as the “ Broad-tailed Shaker,”
and gives as the leading characteristics that it “has a beau-
tiful, long, thin neck, which bends like the neck of a
swan, leaning towards the back; it has a frequent tremu-
lous motion, or shaking in the neck, which is the reason
why they are called Shakers.” He adds that they are
“called by some” Fantails; but still further adds that even
in his time there were two sorts. ‘The one,” he says, “has a
neck much longer and more slender than the other, but the

156 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

longest neck is the most beautiful and the most esteemed.”
Now as the longest neck must necessarily cause the tail to be
carried farthest back, this sentence is incontestable proof that
the Scotch or upright tail, not the forward, pot-lid style, was
the accepted bird in Moore’s day.

At present, as we think, the Fantail is about correct ; the
deficiency in the tails of some of the Scotch birds of some
years ago having been counteracted. The body is very short
and plump, the neck comparatively very long, though it and
the head must appear fine. The neck is carried so extremely
far back and curved (“like that of a swan,” as Moore : justly
compares it), that a point near the junction with the head lies
on or nearly on the back, at the root of the tail. This will be
explained by the engraving; but the “motion,” or what some
vulgarly call the “nerve,” can only be described. It consists
of a vibration, or heaving up and down and forward and back,
the bird being unable to keep still, and occasionally walking
backwards from the same uncontrollable impulse. The legs are
rather short, and when excited the bird walks on tip-toe. A good
bird carries its head at times below the level of its breast, and
when with this is combined a good “strut,” this is called “ good
carriage.” The tail, we consider, should be as nearly as possible
flat, but not carried at all forward of a perpendicular plane—
any leaning forward not only destroys the other properties, but
all esthetic beauty, and we hold that this is an important
consideration. When spread, the tail should be as nearly as
possible a perfect circle, with the exception of two or three
inches wide at the bottom, through which pass the ends of the
flight-feathers, which must be carried low. Such a tail will
need at least twenty-four feathers (the ordinary number in
pigeons is twelve), and twenty-six or twenty-eight are better.
Forty or more feathers are recorded, but always make toa
heavy a tail, which is scarcely ever carried straight. A large
bird can carry more feathers than a small ore, but a good

VARIETIES OF FANTAILS. 157

Fantail should be small. The oil-gland most pigeons possess is
often absent in the Fantail (not always), and there are also
liable to occur feathers which split into two stems from one
root, which is a fault. We believe, however, this feature
often arises from plucking, the feathers of a Fantail so treated
often coming amiss : on which account even a damaged tail is
best, as a rule, left alone.

The size of the tail occasions various difficulties occasionally.
If the bird carries its head too far back, it may go through the
tail; the only remedy for which is to carefully tie the four
middle ones together so as to prevent this: after a while the
habit may probably be cured. Other birds do not carry their
wings low enough, so that the points pass through the tail
instead of under it: this may sometimes be cured by loading
each longest flight with a bit of lead, but the trouble is ill-
spent, and it is best to give up showing such a bird, and simply
shorten the flights sufficiently to save the bird the annoyance,
and make it comfortable for breeding.

The English type of bird—larger, with immense tails carried
over the back, little motion, and the head much higher—.is now
little encouraged except in coloured birds. Blacks, blues, reds,
and yellows are sometimes seen of it; but most of the whites
have Scotch blood in them, and are being rapidly bred to Scotch
properties. The Scotch type is shown in whites and what
are called Saddle-backs, which are all white except the sides of
the wings, which are coloured like a Turbit. By crossing with
other pigeons some peculiar markings have been produced, but
these have never maintained their position. There is also a
“laced” Fantail known, in which all the feathers have the web
disunited, like Silky fowls.

In breeding Fantails, too small hens should be avoided, the
progeny being generally too delicate to rear. Smallness should
therefore be sought on the cock’s side, with a moderate-sized
hen. If any point be deficient, it should of course be supplied:

158 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

thus, a regular old-fashioned Scotch bird with little tail may be
mated with advantage to asmallish specimen of the old English
type. Peaks sometimes occur, many of the original Indian
birds having been peak-crested ; but the feature is not at all
liked, and is nearly bred out. If not too small, Fantails are
fairly hardy, and give little trouble in rearing. Birds remarkable
for “motion” are, however, sometimes incapable of breeding
for the first two or three years, though this extreme nervous-
ness usually wears off in time. ,

Fantails are difficult birds to show, especially in the small
wire pens usually allotted them. Some tails are much firmer
than others, and will stand more knocking about ; but few come
back from a show without woeful signs of their imprisonment.
They should be sent in baskets or boxes carefully planned and
fitted, and if baskets, very smoothly lined; using in fact every
expedient that thought can suggest or contrivance execute to
avoid damage to the tails.

CHAPTER XIIL
JACOBINS.

Moors describes this pigeon as the smallest of all, and says the
smaller the better. There is no doubt it was formerly, at least,
very much smaller than it is bred now, and that it has degene-
rated in some other points as well. This fact has occasioned
much controversy as to the true type of the pigeon ; one school
(of whom Mr, George Ure in Scotland and Mr. Harrison Weir
in England may be cited as exponents) considering that the loss
of old properties has arisen from the modern stress upon two
new ones, known as “mane” and “rose,” and that the only
remedy is in a return to the old style in all points; while the
other as stoutly maintains that the necessity does not follow,
and that if it did the beauty of a good “mane” is cheaply
purchased by merely some increase in size.

ANCIENT AND MODERN STANDARDS. 159

The extreme of neither argument will bear examination.
On the one hand, it is impossible to admit that we are to be
tied down to every point precisely as known to Moore; and
it is simply an egregious mistake to argue, as some have done,
that the points as described by old authors were always the

BLUE AND WHITE JACOBINS.

result of careful study, and deliberate, fixed determination.
This position has been assumed by more than one advocate of
the old-fashioned Jacobin; but it is, on the contrary, as certain
as anything can be that many of the varieties were far from
settled in Moore’s time, and that a general consensus of opinion
had hardly begun to exist. The Carrier has been not only
lengthened in face, but far improved in other properties, since
Moore’s time ; and who would go back to his standard, or even
that of “Mayor,” for the Almond Tumbler! As regards the

160 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

Jacobin itself, this pigeon was so far unsettled when Moore
wrote that Lare and feathered legs were acknowledged indis.
criminately, and even the chain was evidently far from perfect,
Equally wrong are those we allude to in ascribing the. new
points to the last few years, or the “last ten years,” as one
writer has done. Both Moore, and “Mayor” thirty years
later, describe as the “Ruff” a pigeon resembling the Jacobin,
but larger, in which “the feathers of the hood and chain are
much longer,” though not so compact and close as the other;
and both state that the Jacobin was matched to this bird
“in order to improve their chain,” and was thus bred larger
and with some tendency to more looseness of feather. Though
both disapproved of this, it is therefore established by their own
evidence that this chain of breeding had already set in; and
Mr. Brent, so far back as 1850, describes the “rose.” The
modern properties are, therefore, no craze of “one or two
_late judges,” as has been stated, but can, at least, boast a
respectable antiquity, and are the legitimate effects of attempt-
ing.to develop an acknowledged property.

On the other hand, we hold that there has been far too
much stress, comparatively, laid in recent years upon mane and
chain, with the accompanying “rose,” to the neglect of other
properties; and this, according to our opinions expressed
already concerning other breeds, is in our view a grave error.
The neglected properties have chiefly been hood (defect in which
we have often seen condoned for good chain), short face, and
size, or rather, want of it. We might, perhaps, add slimness of
girth, which, as in a Pouter, we consider an important
property in a Jacobin. And while we like a good mane, we
hold that it should not be allowed to outweigh the want of tho
other properties, and should only be developed so far as con-
sistent with them. With this brief exposition of the disputed
question, we proceed to the pigeon itself.

The head of a Jacobin should be that of a short-faced, or

POINTS OF THE JACOBIN. 16i

at least moderately short-faced Baldhead, though somewhat low-
cut may be permitted. The beak should also point slightly down-
ward. Shortness of face has been much neglected, a coarseness
of head and length of beak having crept in and altered the bird
for the worse ; but there can be no doubt that the head ori-
ginally grafted on the Jacobin was that of a Baldhead Tumbler,
and any one who shall breed up this property without losing the
others will assuredly reap reward. The eyes are also pearl ; and
from the same parentage is derived the points of white flights
and tail. About thighs opinion is divided. Brent says white,
asin Baldheads; while Fulton prefers coloured, for the very
reason that such difers from the Baldhead, but allows that the
point is secondary either way. As ruch we prefer to leave it,
with the remark that the question is very closely connected with
that of flights, about which there is the same difficulty of getting
all white as in Baldheads and Beards, many high-cut Jacobins
having onlyseven or lessa side. On the contrary,a bird lower cut,
with clean thighs, often has white flights ; and for this reason
low-cut have usually to be matched with high-cut birds to keep up
flight properties. There is very little difficulty in other respects
in regard to colour, red and yellow being usually very rich
and good in Jacks. Blues were unknown at one time, but were
obtained by crossing with Baldheads, and are now occasionally _
seen very good ; and blacks have been shown of very excellent
quality. The best blacks we know of have been bred from
red crosses, which often produce strawberry birds in the first
place, these being matched back to blacks again. Whole-
coloured whites, blues, and some other colours have also
been shown, but ought not to rank so high, having no flight
difficulties to contend with.

The most important property in a Jacobin is hood, or the
portion of re-curved feathers which come over the top of the
head. The hood must come as far forward, fit as flat down on’
the head, and be as even at the edge as possible. A good hood

t

162 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

will come level with the eyes. The feathers at the root of the
hood sometimes prevent its fitting so close as desired ; and these
are often extracted or cut off close to the skin by unprincipled
persons: for which reason any bird fixed on for a prize or a
purchase should be most carefully examined, by drawing the
hood feathers back so as to expose the roots, to see nothing has
been tampered with.

The peculiar turned plumage which forms the hood is con-
tinued down the sides of the neck, where it forms the “ chain.”
This must come as low as possible, and be so long and so set as
to nearly or quite meet down the front of the breast. It is
equally important that it be smooth and even at the edges.
Another set of feathers turns backward over the shoulders,
léaving an opening or furrow between. Viewed in front, the
chain should lie so flat to the sides of the neck that the latter
appears thin. In “ Mayor's” time it appears some people used
to cut out a strip of skin down the breast and sew the edges
together, to make the chain come closer; but at the present
day birds have so much more chain that such a cruel practice
has become not only disused, but forgotten.

Next come the disputed points of “mane” and “rose.” Aa
chain developed, and the feathers composing it became longer,

it was found that instead of the “parting” passing round the ---.

shoulders and back, the feathers tended to diverge in all direc-
tions from one spot in the centre on each side, leaving the white
fluff visible as a more or less elongated spot, instead of a line.
This spot or centre of white fluff was called the “rose.”
Similarly, instead of the feathers pointing apart, up and down,
at the back of the neck, they pointed backward from the rose,
fillmg up an even crest along the back of the whole chain,
which was called “mane” appropriately enough. Mane thus
arose simply by developing chain; and is by the vast majority
cousidered an additional property. This mane, too, must be
smooth and even, not notched or ragged,

THE IDEAL JACOBIN YET UNSEEN. 163

In carriage the Jacobin shonld somewhat resemble a
Tumbler, carrying the head well back, so as to show off the
peculiar properties. It must not, however, trail the wings, but,
on the contrary, be a tight-feathered bird; and it is also desired
as slim in girth as can possibly be got.

As already hinted, we believe that the disputes about mane
have chiefly arisen from the fact that the property seems antago-
nistic to diminutive size. This arises from the other fact that
good mane chiefly depends on great length and fulness of chain-
feather, which naturally occurs more often on coarse, vigorous ~
birds. Our own opinion is that, while an added beauty and
legitimate development, it should only be cultivated so far as is
possible in subordination to the other acknowledged pro-
perties. It will readily be gathered that this can only be done by
matching those larger birds which possess good chain and mane
with small and slim ones which are good in hood. Much can
be done in this way; and if these views shall find general
acceptance, and judges refuse to give prizes (as some have done)
for mane and chain only, but insist on having, with mane or
not, small and elegant Jacobins, we have no doubt that the
required pigeon will be produced, and that the outcry of the
old-fashioned fanciers against mane will die out.

As a rule, Jacobins give little trouble in rearing or feeding,
though the smallest specimens are apt to be delicate. Should
the short face be more cultivated, difficulty in rearing
might increase; in fact, the bird would become one of the
-very highest class of pigeons, having other difficult proper-
ties engrafted on all those of the high-class Baldhead! To call
such a pigeon—and all these properties are fairly wn the Jacobin
—a Toy, as some do, is simply a farce. On the contrary, no
pigeon is as yet so far off the acknowledged standard, even
close approximation to which has never been produced by man.
A Jacobin fairly perfect in hood, mane, and chain, with the head
of a Baldhead and the size of a Tumbler, has yet to be seen.

164 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER

CHAPTER XIV.
FRILLED PIGEONS.

Unper this heading we can conveniently group a collection of
pigeons which very evidently have one common ancestry, though
they now range themselves into four tolerably distinct groups
or varieties. Whether the Owl] or the Turbit is the original
type cannot now be ascertained with any certainty, the whole
being of Eastern origin; but without discussing this point, we
may proceed at once to describe the many different varieties as
(1) Owls, (2) Turbits, (3) Turbiteens, and (4) Satinettes, and
their sub-varieties.

Owls have very greatly increased in popularity of late years.
They have long been known in England; but within a year or
two of 1850 very superior birds were imported from Africa of
a much smaller size. These were called “Foreign,” while the
others were called “ English” Owls, but as they were largely
crossed with the latter to improve head-points and diminish
size, there was for a time considerable confusion. At length,
however, the fashion of seeking smallness in English Owls
ceased, and breeders endeavoured rather to produce fine
bold birds, since which the English Owl has greatly im-
proved. English Owls are coloured, but are chiefly blues and
silvers; and there is also a colour peculiar to them called
“powdered” blue or silver, which consists of a peculiar
“frost” or silvery cast over the ground-colour on the head,
neck, and shoulders. Some think this was produced accidentally
by a cross of blue with silver, others that a cross with the
Damascene gave the “ powder ;” any way, the colour has ever
since remained in the strain, and is a favourite one, Foreign
Owls are generally white, blues and blacks being very rarely
shown; they are desired as small as can possibly be got.
Other than the differences in size and in the usual colours,

POINTS OF THE OWL. 165

and the cole occurrence of powdered blues and silvers in the
larger English birds, the points are the same in all Owls.

The beak of the Owl gives the bird its name, being short
and stout, turned down, and with the upper mandible curving
down over the lower in as even a curve as possible with the
whole profile of the head. When young, the mandibles are
more equal in length. The whole head should be as globular
as possible in every direction. There is apt to be a protuberance
over the eye and also at the back of the skull, but either is so
far a fault, The eye, of course, should stand out well, flat
cheeks detracting from roundness of head; and the beak-
wattle must for the same reason be even, convex, and fairly
developed, so as to “fill up” the forehead. A young bird,
therefore, does not look quite so well in forehead as an old one,
the wattle filling up with age.

Beak and head are the most difficult points to procure in
Owls. Next comes “ gullet,” or a development of loose skin
under the beak or chin, like a dewlap. This should come as
low as possible, and adds to the apparent shortness of the head.
Mr. Harrison Weir and one or two other good authorities
prefer a bird without gullet, with a clean-cut throat; but the
vast majority both of judges and breeders consider a gullet one
of the properties.

The fourth and last property is frill; and here-we toach
on delicate ground. There is no great difference any way
between Owls and Turbits ; and many have implied that there
is none but peak and colour: that if Turbits were bred whole-
coloured and without peaks they would be Owls. We
thoroughly agree with Mr. Harrison Weir that this is wrong,
and has arisen from ignoring differences that were recognised
by the older fanciers. If the frill, or group of re-curved feathers
on the breast, is to extend as far up and down as possible, as in
the Turbit, there is so far no difference, as may be scen by
comparing the engravings of Owls and Turbits; and Mr. Fulton

166 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER,

adopts this view. But Mr. Brent, writing many years ago, saya
of the Owl that “the frill or purll is shorter, more compact,
and somewhat rose-shaped.” We see even now occasionally an
all but circular “rose” instead of a frill in some Owls; and
Brent, in another place, says distinctly that the frill should be
thus “rose-shaped.” It is plain, in fact, that since Moore’s time
fanciers considered a circle the general ideal of the Ow]; and that,
as they sought for as truly a circular set of curves as possible all
over the skull, so also they sought for a circle on the breast,
and a round, short, plump body. It is a pity to lose points
that assist distinction; and, therefore, while we admit the
present state of confusion, we earnestly hope breeders of this
beautiful pigeon will seek to recover the round, short, but
amply developed “rose-frill.” The frill is occasionally found
so ample as to be triple, an extra line on each side nearly
extending to the back of the head.

The carriage should be up, with the head thrown back, the
feather short, the chest broad, the shoulders rounded, The
eyes are generally gravel or orange, except Whites, which are
bull-eyed. astern fanciers have bred Owls with white tails
and divers other odd markings; but in England they are
almost always whole-coloured, the blues and silvers having
bars as usual. Many blues are light-rumped, and many silvers
kite-barred, owing to a too free use of silvers in breeding ;
this fault may be counteracted by crossing with dark, sound-
rumped blues or blue-chequers.

The larger Owls are hardy and generally good feeders; but
sometimes a very well-gulleted bird feeds badly. The small
Foreign Owls are very delicate, and need nurses, for which
purpose nothing can exceed Common Tumblers. Foreign Owls
require to have their lofts well ventilated, yet perfectly free
from damp and draught, else they die by dozens : in fact, they
are at the best exceedingly delicate birds. Mr, Fulton* states

* “Book of Pigeons,” p 306,

FOREIGN AND ENGLISH OWLS.

SHELL-CRESTED-BLUE-CHEQUER. PuLAK-CRESTED BLUE,
TURBITS,

POINTS OF THE TURBIT. 169

that m very good-headed specimens the tungue is: often rather
tuo long for the mouth, and causes death by canker from the
irritation. This may be prevented by snipping off the horny
tip of the tongue.

Turbits resemble Owls in many points, and both Mr. Fulton
and many others adopt the head of the Owl in toto as the
standard for the Turbit, except, perhaps, the curving upper man-
dible. To this we cannot agree. The head, though round in
general shape, is longer, and the gape of the mouth far wider ;
th» beak also, though short, is not so short, nor so down-faced :
it is, in fact, botha straighter and heavier beak altogether. The
greatest fault in Turbits is a long and spindly beak, and it is
found far easier in practice to change this by an Owl cross into
an Owl’s beak, than to breed the true massive beak of the
Turbit with a good “frog-inouth.” Otherwise, the same re-
marks apply to beak-wattle, which should fill up the curve of the
forehead, as in the Owl. The gullet also resembles that variety.

The frill in a Turbit should be ample in volume, and extend
as far up and down as possible. Comparing the ideal of both
head and frill with that of the Owl, it will be seen that in
the Turbit the model is very much the shape of the coloured
shoulder of the bird, or a kind of egg-shape.

The colour of ‘the Turbit is all white, except the shoulders
of the wings, which are found black, blue, blue-chequered,
silver, red, yellow, and dun. The blues and allied colours
are of course barred. The eyes are generally black or very
dark hazel, the bull-eye showing that the foundation of the
variety was originally a white bird. There is generally more
or less colour under the wing, and sometimes very good birds
are rather foul-thighed. Occasionally even a flight or two is
foul, for which reason it is better if an inner flight or two be
white, provided it does not interfere with the colour of the side
or shoulder when the wing is closed.

170 THE PRACTICAL PIGEOK KEEFER.

The last property of the Turbit is peak, or crest. The peak.
crest should be as high and pointed as possible, and the feathera
meet evenly, so as to form an even ridge or mane behind, aa
low as it extends, down the back of the neck. The shell-crest
is a kind of hood resembling the edge of a shell, and somewhat
like the hood of a Jacobin less developed. The shell-crests
have, as a rule, the best heads, and are therefore crossed often
with the peaks. The result has been that very few of either
are now seen at all approaching perfection. It is also rare to
see a Turbit really good in frill.

The Turbit should be small, but is longer in feather than
the Owl. It is fairly hardy, and often feeds well; but the
smallest and best often give much trouble in this respect, and
therefore require feeders. This point should be ascertained by
experience as regards every separate pair of birds put up for
breeding. For obvious reasons, it is best to use good-sized
hens as far as possible, and trust for smallness chiefly to the
cocks.

The colours of Turbits are generally very good, especially
the reds and yellows. The red, as usual, will improve yellow;
but all reds from the cross must be kept away from reds, and
confined to crossing with yellows only. Blacks may be crossed
with duns as usual, also with reds and yellows occasionally,
Blues are sometimes kite-barred, from too much use of silvers,
and need care. Foul thighs, bad crests, and spindly beaks are
the greatest difficulties, and next to these a want of frill.

Black-tailed Turbits have been shown, but have not found
favour.

Zurbiteens are a comparatively recent importation from
Asia Minor, for which English fanciers are indebted to Mr. H.
Caridia, a Greek gentleman, now of Birmingham. They may
be regarded as an Oriental refinement upon the Turbit, and
Mr. Caridia states that they were produced by crossing with a

TURBITEENS. 171

black-headed bird marked like the Nun, and crossing back to
white Owls to keep out the black tail. However this may be,
the production of varieties like the Turbiteens and Satinettes
must stamp the Smyrna pigeon-fanciers as of the very highest
class; the varieties they have produced, with their added beauties,

“TOURBITEENS, PEAK-CRESTED AND PLAIN-HEADED.

being amongst the most fascinating in appearance of all the
pigeon tribe.

In general marking the Turbiteen is a Turbit: that is, a
white bird with coloured sides or shoulders, the colour (what-
ever it is) being of the richest character. All the usual colours
are found. Besides the usual markings, however, are the head
and face marks. Of these there is as yet no fixed pattern, the
Oriental breeders having simply made it their object to place
on the head a well-defined coloured patch or patches of any
kind. But gradually a perceptible approach to regularity has
been attained, and at present the efforts of English fanciers

172 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER,

have been directed to the production of a large spot on the
forehead, and a cheek-mark evenly disposed on each side, as
shown in the engraving. Both marks should be as free from
scattered feathers or peppering as possible.

The head of the Turbiteen resembles that of the Owl rather
than of the Turbit in its shortness, roundness, and down-face.
The legs are muffled, or covered with short and grouse-like
feathers ; the frill to be as full as possible. Birds are bred
both plain-headed, as in the Owl, and peak-crested, like the
Turbit ; and both head and colour being so good, Turbiteens
have been largely employed of late in Turbit-breeding to
improve these points.

The colour of the Turbiteens being so rich, it may be well
to describe the Eastern method of breeding, especially as an
Oriental sun is even more difficult to contend with than ours.
We therefore transcribe from the “ Book of Pigeons”* a para-
graph from the account kindly furnished us by Mr. Caridia for
that work.

“A bird produced from a cross of a black and red, whether
it is black, bronzed-black, or red, will do to match either
with black or red again. Also a bird bred from a cross of
a red and yellow, whether red or yellow, will do admirably
with either red or yellow again. But birds bred from parents
of one colour should be freely mated, as they ought to be, with
birds of dissimilar colour: viz., a bird bred from a pair of
blacks should be crossed with a bird bred from a pair of
reds, and a bird bred from a pair of reds should be crossed
with one bred from a pair of yellows; thus you have black
mated to red, and red mated to yellow. As a rule, never
breed from a black and a yellow, but if you want to improve
black, mate it with a black or red bred from a black and red ;
if you want to improve red, mate it with a black or red bred
from a black and red ; if you want to improve the yellow, mate

* Page 319.

THE SATINETTE PIGEONS. 173

it with » ~ed or yellow bred from a red and yellow. Pair also
two reds bred from black and red, and two yellows bred from
ted and yellow, and continue to observe which colour re-
quires strengthening, and by following the above plan your
success is certain.”

Turbiteens with Jarge head-marks generally have red or
orange eyes, as in coloured Owls, and dark beaks, With small
marks the eye is uncertain, being often dark, as in Turbits, from
the Owl blood ; the beak also is lighter. They are as a rule
good feeders, as well as very hardy, being flown freely in their
native land ; but after generations of aviary-rearing it is to be
feared the same difficulty will be found as in Turbits and Owls.
Eastern fanciers always prefer the larger birds; and if this
preference should be happily maintained in England the dif-
ficulty may not be found, as we have already seen that the
large English Owl generally feeds well, though the smaller
Owl, like the small Turbit, requires more or less assistance.

Satinettes and their sub-varieties are the most artificial
development of the Owl or Turbit family, and come from Asia
Minor, like the Turbiteens. They share with the latter birds
the grouse legs so admired by Eastern fanciers; and, like them,
are bred more to the Owl type of head than the Turbit. They
are both peaked and plain-headed. The frill should be as ample
as can be got, and all the general points resemble those of the
preceding varieties ; but they have added and striking beauties
of colour and marking,

These points were for a good while not understood ; and
hence, because a pair of birds did not as a rule breed their like
there was said by many to be “nothing in the variety,” one
well-known authority going so far as to say the whole Satinette
tribe were mere “sports” from Turbits. In saying this it
must have been forgotten that all the colours in pigeons are
more or less interchangeable ; black, for instance, being bred

174 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

to duns, reds, and yellows, and Barbs producing almost
any colour. But the reason of the variety of produce of any
pair of birds of the Satinette family is the fact that, like
the Almond, the colour and marking have been produced by
the long and careful blending of three colours, until all
three are united im one bird, as in the Almond. The dif-
ference is that the Oriental breeders, with a higher skill, have
in the same way as the Germans united the different colours
with a beauty and regularity of pattern which we have
already seen the Almond does not possess. But sub-varieties
constantly tend to appear, precisely in the same way as the
Almond, Splash, Whole-feather, or Kite do in Almond-
breeding, and have to be used in the same way.

The Satinette, then, is a combination of pinky-brown, black,
and white, which is often more or less mixed with blue in
addition. Most of the body is white, like the Turbit. The
shoulders (coloured in the Turbit) are of the pinky-brown
ground, shading into white and marked with black. The
black marking is sometimes of an arrow-pointed character, as
in our illustration, sometimes of a laced type, as in Sebright
Bantams or the Blondinettes shown in the engraving. The
flights are white, the tail-coverts generally coloured ; the tail
itself black, with a large round white spot at the end of each
feather ; or the feathers might also be described as with a ring
of black at the end. A bluish tinge in the black is a fault.

Brunettes are lighter Satinettes, the ground being a silvery-
greyish buff, and the markings grey instead of black. Bluettes
have blue shoulders, like a blue Turbit, blue tails with the white
spot at the end, and the three colours in the bars, the main
breadth of which is white, but edged with the pinky brown
of a rich colour, shading into black. Silverettes have silver
shoulders, with white bars edged with black only, tail grey,
with the usual spots. There are besides black-and-white birds
only, from which, with a little patience, birds might be bred

SATINETTE

BLONDINETTES, 177

laced as accurately and as clear black and white as a silver
Sebright Banta.

Now, as in the Almond, sometimes the darker kinds crop
up and sometimes the lighter. It is not well as a rule to cross
the plain-shouldered barred varieties, such as Bluettes and
Silverettes, with the laced or ticked ones; but the darker
varieties of each should be matched to the lighter, as in
Almonds; thus mating a dark Satinette to a Brunette, or a
dark Bluette to either a light one or a Silverette. In every
case endeavour to supply the most absent ingredient, as in .
Almond breeding. If matches of the proper varieties are
scarce, Mr. Caridia strongly warns the breeder not to cross
with Turbits, which have coloured shoulders with white tails,
and so would destroy tail-marking; but if an out-cross must be
used, to employ either a white Owl with dark tail or a pure
white Owl, which will not interfere with marking nearly so
much. Crossing with similarly-coloured German toys is useless,
as it utterly destroys all the head and frill properties.

Blondinettes were produced about the year 1850, Mr.
Caridia states by crossing silver and blue Owls with
Satinettes. They are, like the Satinettes, both peak-crested
and plain-headed. The generic difference between’ their tribe
and that of the Satinettes is in the body-colour; the heads,
necks, breast, thighs, &c., being of a whole colour, from the Owl
cross; while the Satinette varieties are white, from the Turbit
parentage. With this difference, there are in Blondinettes
most of the Satinette varieties. There are, for instance, Blues
and Silvers with tri-coloured bars, like Bluettes and Silverettes;
others with tri-coloured markings, like the true Satinette; and
there is a very pretty variety called Black, which is simply a
black lacing on as pure a white ground as possible. They
must all have grouse legs, good frills, round heads, and the
white spot at the end of the tail-feathers,

uM

178 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

Blondinettes, to preserve their beauties, must be bred like
the Satinettes, matching the more heavily-marked to lightly-
marked birds, and continually throwing in the colour most
wanting. An exception may be made to some extent in regard
to the more simply laced or bi-coloured birds, which, if preferred,
may be perfected by breeding together.

The appearance of the young of all these varieties is

BLONDINETTES,

uncertain, and birds should not be discarded because of
unsatisfactory appearance when in the nest feather, which is
very often quite dull; or even one patch of confused colour.
Some birds, however, are variegated from the first; and by
matching the best of these together, pigeons have been pro-
duced with the markings extending up the neck. It is very
commion for the white tail spot (which in the Blondinettes
sometimes becomes a white band) not to appear at all till the
first moult. Now and then a bird will lose this point (showing,
probably, a reversion to a black-tailed Owl), and if good in livad

VIZORS AND DOMINOES. 179

and frill, such need not be discarded, but will be a valuable
match for a lightly-marked specimen.

Vizors ave another and the last introduced of the short-
billed Frilled Pigeons; and have been also produced in
Asia Minor. Mr. Ludlow states that they were produced by

Buve Vizor.

matching a Nun-marked Turbit (see illustration of Nuns at
p- 191) known in Turkey, and now and then shown in
England under the name of Dominoes, with Satinettes and
Blondinettes, but the use of the Blondinette for such a
purpose seems to us very doubtful. The blue Vizor has
a dark blue head, the marking including the crest, and coming

180 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

down to the bottom of the gullet, which is well developed.
The shoulders are blue, as in the Turbit, with white bars
edged with black, a shade of brown sometimes occurring between
the white and black. It will be seen at once that this is
almost exactly the marking of the Bluette. The back is white,
the tail blue from a line across the rump, merging into, black
at the end, where there is a round white spot on each feather ;
all the rest white. Silvers resemble blues save in the ground
colour, and are bred with them. Blacks resemble blues except
that the shoulders are solid, like English Turbits; the head
and other markings are the same, but the white tail-spot is
difficult to get. Vizors are said not to breed very true.

CHAPTER XV.
EXHIBITION ANTWERPS.

From the mixed blood described in Chapter XIX. as the
origin of the present Homing Pigeon,
has been developed by careful selection
and breeding one particular type, which
has within the last few years become
one of our most
popular show va-
rieties. It was
formerly called the
“ short-faced” Ant-
werp; but as this
nomenclature led
to many errors of
judging, which hin-
deredimprovement
for some years, and
as, Moreover, allied SILVER-DUN ANTWERP,

i
EXHIBITION ANTWERPS. 181

birds of the same variety and with analogous properties are
now exhibited as “long-faced,” “medium-faced,” and “ short-
faced,” it is better to adopt the generic name employed above,
though the short-faced is the perfect type of the breed. There
is no doubt that this is really a Belgian bird, and has arisen
from the predominance in some localities of that Owl blood,
which, as stated in Chapter XIX., is one of the component
parts of the Homing Pigeon. To this day a frilled breast
is no unheard-of occurrence, though rare; and the Owly type
has to be rather care-
fully guarded against
in breeding.
Most of the pro-
perties of the Exhibi-
tion Antwerp are in
the head, of which
we append an illus-
tration of the full
natural size. It will
be seen at a glance
that great capacity
and intelligence are
the characteristics of
this head ; and when
trained these birds
often make fair
Homers, though now
too valuable to be used for such a purpose, and seldom flown.
First of all, we observe that the word “short-faced” is a
misnomer, because shortness is not a property. If it were, then
the shorter it was the better. the bird would be, which is
not the case. Fig. 25 represents the profile, and Fig, 26 a
top view of a good mature head; and if it were any shorter it
would be so much worse. The first and great point is that the

HEAD oF ANTWERP,

182 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

curve A E BC be even and unbroken, with no flat place, much
less depression at E or B. This is called a good “arched face,”
and it will be seen that age rather improves it by the growth
of the beak-wattle. This last may project a little without
fault, provided it be even and not ragged. It matters not how

(Fig. 26,

a

long in reason the head may be, provided the front of the beak,
AE, is short, blunt, and massive, Length of nostril £ F, or a good
space between wattle and eye at D, only give room for the front of
the skull to develop, and do not spoil the short appearance of a
well-shaped head; since an Antwerp must be, like a Barb, a
big-headed pigeon. Referring to the top view, the next main
point is that the head be wide across behind the wattle, at pp,
so that if the beak-wattle were removed and a flat edge laid
against the side of the face there should be no hollow or
depression.

In brief, we want generally the head of an Antwerp to
be bounded by convex curves, somewhat as in the Owl, but
with more length to give massive character. The eyelash or

) ‘
PROPERTIES OF THE ANTWERP. 183

eye-wattle should harmonise with this. At one time, when
breeders went for shortness of face, a Barb cross was resorted
to, and the consequence was a kind of eye-wattle like Fig. 27,
which quite destroys the character of
the head by its projection at the outer
edges. If, on the contrary, the eye-
wattle lie close at the edges to the skull,
and the eye stands out boldly in the
centre, as in Fig. 28, a well-developed
eye-wattle adds to the apparent size and '
roundness of head, and is an advantage
to the bird. We have seen eye-wattles
of the Barb type on very good birds,
but it is a fault decidedly, and so far spoils the head.

Fig. 29 shows the head of a young bird likely with age
to develop into Fig. 25, to show how age and development
apparently shorten the
face. At © B there
may be a slight flat-
ness, to be by-and-by
filled up by growth of
wattle, and the beak
from a to F is longer,
the beak-wattle at
present following at
its lower edge the
nearly horizontal line
of the nostril, whereas
; with age the wattle
drops at the back below the nostril, and so shortens the
beak and makes it look thicker. In many cases it really
does thicken a little with age. The space D also appears
much greater for the same reasons, It is, therefore, particu-
larly necessary to guard against condemning young birds for

Fig. 27. Fig. 28.

Fig. 29.

184 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

appearing too long in face; if the beak be thick enough
and blunt at the point, and the length of it from a to E
be comparatively short, while the nostril, £ F, and the space p
be comparatively long, the bird will very probably make a good
one, provided E B is well filled up in front, and the head be
wide across at DD. In fact, with such proportions, a fair
length must make up best in the end, as it will make the
biggest head. The cheeks below the eyes should also be well
filled out. After a certain age the beak generally shrivels and

Fig. 30. Fig. 31.

becomes thin,. thus destroying the grand and massive character
of the head. Hence a time comes when the finest bird must
yield his place to younger rivals.

We have already said that this massive convexity being the
main property of a good Antwerp head, if the profile in Fig. 25
were shortened it would be spoilt. This will be seen on com-
paring the foregoing figures with Figs. 30 and 31, which
show exactly such a head as many judges used to think-was
desired by Antwerp fanciers. We have purposely chosen one
of the best of this type, so as to make the comparison most
fairly ; but have seen, years ago, prizes given to far worse. It
will be seen at once that this is an Owly head; and of course

FAULTS OF THE OWLY TYPE 185

we do not want the Antwerp to be an Owl, but to be as
distinct as possible, except in points we cannot help. First,
such a very short head often has a little gullet, which in an
Antwerp is a fault. Secondly, the extreme rotundity at o
actually seems to flatten the head at £ B, the most prominent
point being the point G, near the top of the head ; whereas in
the real Antwerp type we want the most prominent part to be
the forehead, near B. In the same way, the extreme roundness
of skull causes the cheeks to appear hollow, and the head
narrow from D to D in the top view, Fig. 31; and there is
very little space at D between beak-wattle and eye, which is
‘again an Owl and not an Antwerp point. It will also be
found that in nearly all cases of such short heads the beak
is very much thinner than here represented, and there
is rarely so good a beak-wattle; so that these short Owly
heads are usually far worse than here shown, which is one of
the best of the faulty type. Finally, it is quite enough for a
fancier to know that these short Owly heads give no difficulty ;
they can be bred by the dozen, by simply matching the shortest-
faced birds together, there being no counteracting points to
interpose obstacles. It was, in fact, by doing so that the false-
ness of the type was discovered and a truer one finally found,

An Exhibition Antwerp, then, should not have gullet, or
extreme shortness of face, or small beak-wattle, or small head,
or circular profile, for these are Owl points. Neither should
it have an exaggerated eye-wattle, with the eye sunk in the
centre, or an over-broad cylindrical skull, which belong to the
Barb. It should have a short but massive beak ; full, bold,
convex, but oval head, free frcm hollows anywhere; and the
head must be big, because this size is difficult to produce, and
is the one property which most corrects the tendencies above
described. While a big head is sought the fancier can never
go very far wrong in over-shortness of face.

To keep up this property of size in the head it is necessary

186 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER,

occasionally to cross with longer - faced birds, such as is
shown in Fig. 32, which gives an idea of what is termed
“ medium-faced.” Some of these show the Antwerp properties
so strongly as to be very valuable even as show birds, and
the fact that they were called “ medium,” no doubt, helped
to create the false impression as to the right type for the short-
faced. It has been shown why the true type is a little towards
medium-face. Examining this diagram, it will be seen that
the curve A E BO
gives a good arched
face ; there is good
space at D, and a
massive beak, short
before the wattle.
It is not the highest
type, being too long,
but it is true Ant-
werp,; and when the
heads are getting
too small (it will be
seen at once that
oars Fig. 32 could add
nothing to such a good head as is shown in Fig. 25) such
a bird may and should be crossed into the strain, often
with wonderful results in giving size of head. It is a curious
fact that although these longer heads are rarely so wide across
as those they are crossed with, they often add width as well as
length to a strain with smaller skulls. Hence these birds
form part of the Antwerp fancier’s regular breeding-stock ; and
by a good judge even a bird as long in face as Fig. 32 would be
given prizes in preference to the head shown in Fig. 30.
As regards other points, the Antwerp should be a good
flying bird, with symmetrical and powerful wings, medium
legs, bold carriage, and a nice taper appearance towards the

—_

SSS

\

TOY PIGEONS. 187

tail. - The usual colours are blues, blue-chequers, red-
chequers, and silver-duns, the latter a kind of reddish cream-
colour, with chocolate bars. We have also seen good Grizzles,
Blues and blue-chequers may be bred and crossed as usual,
red-chequers may be occasionally only crossed with - blue-
chequers, now and then requiring after such a cross a counter-
acting cross of silver-dun; the silver-duns are bred solely
together, unless with a rare cross from a red-chequer.

The silver-duns are the aristocrats of the family. The neck
and breast should be rich chocolate, the head light. This is
natural in the cocks, but the hens are darker-headed. This
was remedied by breeding light-headed birds together, but the
result has been a tendency to grey in the neck and breast of
the cock, which can only be counteracted by breeding from
rather dark-headed hens. We confess we think it a pity not to
recognise the distinctness of sex and encourage darker-headed
hens. Nothing can look more artistically beautiful than a loft
full of silver-dun Antwerps.

Antwerps are thoroughly hardy, and cannot be surpassed as
feeders. They are active, but readily become accustomed to
their owner, and give, therefore, no trouble whatever, except
that of keeping up their properties.

CHAPTER XVI.
TRUMPETERS, ARCHANGELS, NUNS, MAGPIES, RUNTS.

From amongst the crowd of miscellaneous Toy pigeons it is
convenient to group together the above as having attained the
dignity of more or less often obtaining special classes at English
‘shows: otherwise they have no connection, the Trumpeter
coming to us from Russia, Nuns and Magpies from Germany,
and Runts probably from the Mediterranean. We simply take
them together as the most generally known of the Toy classes,

188 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

Trumpeters are described by Moore as well known in his
time, and as deriving their name from the peculiar voice, the
coo being very frequent, loud, and abrupt. Their other pro-
perties are rose, crest, and foot-feather. The crest should
resemble that of the shell-crested Turbit, Nun, and other
pigeons, or otherwise the edge of a shell standing upright, and
extending round the back of the head till nearly level with

Mottten TRUMPETER.

the eyes. It should not lie down, or fit close like the hood
of a Jacobin, but stand upright, clear away from the head;
and when it does this the more developed it is the better. The
rose is a circular top-knot or crest on the top of the head,
spreading out as evenly as possible on all sides from a central
spot in the middle. The legs are heavily vulture-hocked,

TRUMPETERS. 189

and the shanks themselves furnished with very long quill-
feathers.

The old style of English Trumpeters excelled in foot-feather,
but rose and crest were poor. About 1860, or soon after, how-
ever, Messrs. John Baily and Son began to import birds from
Russia, with enormous development of rose and crest, so far
superior that they beat all the old stock. Their foot-feather
was less developed ; but this point has been improved, and the
Russian Trumpeter is now the accepted standard. The eyes
are pearl, and the colours black, white, black-mottled, and
splashed. It is a long-feathered bird, loose in feather, and
being also large in body, appears very large in size. Nothing
can be more stately than the way a Trumpeter cock walks
about when courting his hen.

Trumpeters deserve to be considered a very high class of
pigeon, but are not gencral favourites, being unfortunately very
delicate. It is not probably the climate—since they come from
Russia—but more likely the usual confinement in which they are
kept, which is too much for them. Be the cause what it may,
imported birds are peculiarly liable to consumption, for which
it might be well to try small doses of hypophosphite of soda.

The lighter mottles and splashes do not look nearly so at-
tractive as blacks and the orthodox mottle, or rather approach
to it, for we have never yet seen a really good rose-mottled
Trumpeter. The most likely plan of breeding such would be
to go on matching blacks with the better mottles.

In breeding for fancy properties the voice of the Trumpeter
has been nearly lost, in many birds entirely so. It is never
taken into consideration in judging. There is, however, a true
laughing or trumpeting pigeon, with clean legs, not only described
by Moore, but later by Brent; and in 1878 a pair of these
birds were shown by Mr. Betty at a meeting of the National
Peristeronic Society. They were blue-chequered, very small,
dove-headad, end clean-legged,

190 TUE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

Archangels were introduced into England from Ghent;
their real origin no one knows. The name is supposed to be
derived from the splendour of the plumage. The bird was
scarce for a long time, and only since about 1870 has it become
popular ; but a class for the variety is now often very well filled.
The head and beak are long, like the thin-faced type of
Toys, or the dove, and the head has behind a very pointed peak-
crest, with or without a bit of mane below. The rest of the
bird is rather slim and long-feathered, and the size rather small.
The main characteristic is the plumage, which is remarkable
for a fiery, rich, metallic dustre all over ; the colour itself being
black on the shoulders and tail, and rich copper over all the
rest. The black parts, however, shine like the rest, with all
sorts of green metallic reflections. We have said the tail
should be black as well as the sides of the wings ; but, strictly
speaking, we have never seen a bird so, every tail being so far
bluish as to show a distinct black bar at the end. It has proved
so impossible to vanquish this, after many years’ trial, that
many fanciers now prefer to recognise the blue tail, and no
longer reckon the darkest a point in judging.

Besides the deep-coloured birds, which are the proper type,
the same strains produce yellows. These are valuable for
crosses, like duns with black Carriers, but in appearance and
lustre are themselves far inferior. There are also whites,
various splashes, &c., but we believe these are the product
of crosses. Whole blacks have more merit, as possessing
more of the peculiar lustre. The eyes should be red or
orange.

The Archangel breeds very true, and the chief points to
keep in view are peak and lustre. It is hardy and a good
feeder, and gives no trouble. The Germans have, however,
lately produced a bird of standard colour with white bars, and_
also some other fancy markings, which afford work enough for
the must ambitious fancier.

NUNS. 191

WVuns have the shaped head and pearl eyes of a pleasant-
faced Tumbler, medium-sized trim bodies, and clean legs. They
have a shell-crest like that of the Trumpeter, but hardly so
large, which should stand as upright and clean as possible, and
come down at least as low as the eye. This crest must be
white, like the back of the neck, but immediately from its

base the head must be co.oured, the colour coming forward in a
nice curve to the front of the neck, as in the engraving. The
fitness of the name is very obvious. The whole body is white,
except the coloured head: and the flights and tail. The colours
are black, blue, red, and yellow, duns also appearing, and being
used to cross with black. Blacks far outnumber the rest.

The flights should be all coloured; but this is so rare that
Moore only specifies six a side as the standard. Since then
breeders have advanced, and eight a side is common; nine a

192 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

side, however, remains very good in flights. Few birds have
more than nine and ten. The beak should be dark in black
Nuns, light in the other colours. A dark beak in blacks and a
low-cut bib are most likely to be accompanied by the standard
number of flights. The eye-cere is also very nearly black, and
many black Nuns have almost black legs.

The Nun is trimmed for exhibition more than almost any
bird. About the line of the bib is often weeded a little to make
the line sharp; but most of all is the head plucked near the
root of the crest, to prevent coloured feathers growing up
against the white shell. So notorious and universal is this
that it keeps many from the breed, even an honest bird being
suspected. Nuns are hardy and good feeders, and some people
who like them keep them as nurses for short-faced Tumblers.

Quite lately, Messrs. Baily and Son have re-introduced from
Germany a bird that is almost a Nun reversed, the chief
difference being that the head is not so Tumbler-shaped, but
more that of a common Toy. The head and bib and tail are
white, the shell and all the rest black. The chief difference is
that all the wing is black, instead of the flights being white, as
they would be by strict analogy. The birds are also generally
grouse-legged. This variety was mentioned by Dixon.

Magpies have ordinary Toy or Dove-house pigeon heads,
clean legs, and trim bodies, possessing no properties at all but
colour and marking. The marking exactly resembles that of
the Flying Tumbler shown in the engraving at p. 132 as a
“Saddle.” It covers the head, neck, breast (down to above
the thighs), back, rump, tail-coverts, and tail, also the shoulder-
coverts ; the rest of the wing, belly, and thighs being white.
The eye is a clear pearl, with a red cere or lash round it. The
colours are black, red, blue, and yellow. The beak is generally
flesh-colour.

The colours are generally very good, especially the black,

MAGPIES AND RUNTS. 193

and can be bred as usual. The marking breeds, as a rule, very
true; and it will give little trouble to preserve, provided the
higher-cut birds are selected—that is, those in which the

Lranorn Rost.

colour on the breast ends rather high up. The Magpie is a
very free and hardy breeder and good feeder, but apt to be a
little wild. Kindness will get over this, and those of a quiet
disposition make capital nurses.

Runts are the giants of the pigeon family, few birds being
ever exhibited under 2 lbs. weight. Moore mentions several
varieties, and one of them, known as the Leghorn Runt, seems

N

194 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

to have had a very attractive and characteristic outline, and
to have been known as a fancy bird, Eaton saying he knew a
pair sold for £25. We copy the figure from Eaton’s work, and

Common Buive Runt.

from it will be readily understood the curved and swan-like
neck, the “ goose-head,” turned-up tail, and broad curved beak
which Moore describes. This variety has disappeared in Eng-
land, but as Brent and Eaton both knew it as imported, might
probably be recovered from the Mediterranean.

: HASTERN TOY PIGEONS. 195

The Common Runt, as seen at shows, is simply an immensely
large common pigeon, and prizes are usually given to weight
alone. We have seen 2 lbs. 9 0z. scaled. The colours shown
are blue with black bars and silver with brown bars. They
are dangerous pigeons to keep with other varieties, being rather
ill natured and very powerful. They are not very good breeders
or nurses, and the best way to get fine ones is to give one
squeaker to a pair of good Dragoons or Antwerps. The Runt,
from its great size and length of feather, is sometimes crossed
with the Pouter, to give that variety size, even now.

By crossing Runts with common Dove-house pigeons a
mongrel Runt‘has been produced, called by the French Pigeons
Mondains, which does breed well, and is bred and fattened for the
French markets. When three weeks or a month old the birds
are crammed, after a week of which they put on a surprising
amount of flesh. The crammers usually fill the birds from the
mouth with millet (or millet and tares) kept in water, taking a
mouthful, and “blowing” the crops full in an instant three
times a day. Lately they have introduced the plan of cram-
ming them as they do poultry, with buckwheat meal paste, or
gruel, administered through a flexible tube.

CHAPTER XVII
EASTERN TOY PIGEONS.

Aprrr taking from the large variety of Toy pigeons those which
have attained special classes, as in the last chapter, the only
feasible way of further dividing the remainder seems to be to
take together, first, those which appear to be of Eastern origin,
and then to group the remainder, most of which come from
Germany. In regard to breeding, little can be said for want
of any general experience. The amateur must be guided by his
own judgment in pairing together the best colour and markings.

196 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

Capuchins are generally black, with white tails, clean-
legged, with a Tumbler head and pearl eyes, Their charac-
teristic is a close-fitting hood, like that of the Jacobin, but
without chain below it. Some people have described this as a
shell-crest, but it does not stand up at all like the crest of a
Nun, lying down as
close as possible. The
carriage is bold and
upright. There are
also blue and black
Capuchins. They are
bred in Asia Minor,

Damascenes have
a round Owl - like
head, with a short
down - faced beak.
The eye (orange) is
surrounded by a pe-
culiar plum-coloured
cere or eyelash. The
most peculiar point
aboutthem, however,
DAMASCENE. is the colour, which
is of a striking mealy
or frosted, slightly blue white, such as is called French white, as
if dusted with faintly blue white flour. The bars on wings and
tail are jet black. The wnder-flue of the feather is dark, the
beak and nails being also dark. The peculiarity in feather
is of the same kind as the “powder” of English Owls, and
suggests whether the “powdered blues” may not have been
so obtained, especially when we consider the resemblance in
heads. The Ice pigeons also have a frosted appearance of the
same kind,

SWIFTS—-SCANDAROONS. 197

Swifts are named from the great resemblance of their long
flights and tails to the Martin and Swallow tribe of birds.
They are bred in Egypt and India. The head is short and
round, eye light yellow or orange, the cere flesh-colour. The
legs are short in comparison, the characteristic of the breed

being its extreme length of body and feather. All the feathers
are, in fact, much longer than usual, and, unless the birds are
in first-rate condition, soft and loose. Owing to this they are
very bad flyers, the wings having no strength, Mr. Ludlow
says that a bird he had measured 323 inches from tip to tip of
the wings. He gives them the character of being hardy.

Scandaroons are one of the most typical breeds known, and
are believed to come from Persia. The main points are in the
head. It is narrow from side to side, and very arched or Roman-
nosed, the beak itself being considerably curved. The eye,
which is orange, is surrounded by a considerable quantity of

198 @HE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPHE.

red cere or wattle, and the wattle on the beak is also consider-
ably developed—about as much as in a London Dragoon. A
peculiar redness runs along the line of mouth, and a pinky tinge
generally pervades the beak-wattle also. The total length of
face is about that of the Carrier—say two inches. The beak is

=
=
SS
Ss

ScawDaRoons,

flesh-colour. The Scandaroon is found in white, various whole
colours, and pieds. In all, the colour is the most rich and
intense of any variety of pigeon, the red especially so. Owing to
the length of face, light beak, and beak-wattle, the Scandaroon
has been considerably used in crossing both with Carriers and
Dragoons: with the former to produce whites; with the latter

INDIAN FANCY PIGEONS. 199

to get good reds and yellows. It seems, upon the whole, likely
that these birds were the original stock of our present English
Carriers.

Of Indian pigeons, that best known is generally called by
the name of the Lahore. Of these many specimens have
reached England, all of one type. As thus imported in Indian

Lanore,

vessels, the Lahore is a largish pigeon of plump make, and
rather heavy-looking, with rather short, clean legs. The head
is of the common type, with a rather thick beak, the eye having
round it a small red cere. The points are in the marking,
which is peculiar and striking, especially as the birds seen so
far have been black. The top of the head down to the eye is
‘black, and the upper mandible of the beak dark also, while the .
under mandible ig light. The black runs over the eye, and
comes down and round the back of the neck to half-way round,
and over the back to the tail-coverts; the wings are also
biacx, all else white. Thus the neck when looked at from

200 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

behind looks as if all black, and when from the front all
white, the line being very sharp and clear. Lahores are good
breeders and feeders, and very tame and domesticated.

Mr. J. C. Lyell, who spent some time in India, states that the
Lahore is only a sub-variety of a pigeon called there the Sherajee,
which has the same markings, but is stocking-legged or grouse-
legged, like a Pouter. He further states that there is a sub-
variety of the Sherajee still more esteemed, which, in place of
being pure white in front, is mottled on the breast. In this
case no two feathers of the mottle must touch each other, but
every spot be clear; and when this is the case the natives
value the bird highly, and will pay so much for each motile,
even up to 1,000 rupees per bird. The colours known of the
Sherajee are yellow, red, black, blue, dun; blacks being the
most common and, therefore, least valued.

The Mookee, Mr. Lyell affirms, is the true narrow-tailed
“Shaker,” so long lost, of Willughby’s “Ornithology.” Since
Willughby plainly describes a narrow or pointed-tailed bird,
and not a spread-tailed one, it certainly is impossible to believe,
with Moore and Brent, that he meant a bastard between a Fan-
tail and some other sort. He again mentions expressly a close
tail, with the tremulous motion. The Mookee exactly answers
to this; and coming from India, the home of the Fantail, is
probably the pigeon meant. It is peak-crested ; white-headed,
like a Baldhead, but cut high across the eye, with the upper
mandible light and the lower dark ; eye dark ; two outer flights
of each wing only white, all the rest of the bird coloured. The
head is carried back, and there is a constant vibration of the
neck backwards and forwards, as in Fantails, but not to so
great an extent. The head is rather peculiar in shape—neither
short nor yet the common type, but as if drawn straight to a
point. Most of the birds are black, the rest blue and ash-
coloured. The most usual fault is in flights, such as one and
three, two and five, &c. Three and three are allowed, but

Morrrep Goo.Ler.

MorTrLeD SHERAJEE.
INDIAN FANCY PIGEONS.

MISCELLANEOUS TOYS. 203

more, or unequal numbers, are not recognised by Indian fanciers,
' Foul or ragged-cut heads are also a difliculty. A few reds and
yellows are known. There are only twelve feathers in the tail,
which is quite close; and it is at once obvious that no such
bird could be bred down from the Fantail. It is far more
likely that the “ motion” of the Mookee was grafted on to the
Fantail.

The Goolee is marked on head and neck like the Sherajec,
or Lahore, but differs in the tail being coloured and the wings
white. It is clean-legged. A more valued variety is mottled
on the wings. As in the mottled Sherajee, however, this
mottling is different to English mottling, where separate white
feathers appear on a solid coloured ground. This Indian
mottling consists of separate coloured feathers on a solid white
ground. The higher class of Goolees have a high forehead,
with almost a “stop” to it. The wings are carried luw, and
the birds walk on tiptoe. The resemblance in all these points
to the short-faced Tumbler has been remarked upon in Chapter
IX. Sometimes the Goolee is bred with the head, tail, and
speckles on the wing of three different colours, and is then of
higher value—this strange mixture of three colours in one
bard being another strange coincidence with Almond Tumbler
history.

The engraving of these Indian pigeons is made from
sketches by Mr. Lyell.

CHAPTER XVIII.
MISCELLANEOUS TOYS.

We have now to notice briefly a miscellaneous crowd of
pigeons, most of which have been produced in Germany, where
the fanciers have given themselves specially to feather and
marking, and have produced an extraordinary number of

204 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER,

varieties. We cannot even describe all of them; and as nearly
all have the ordinary Dove-house type of head and body,
breeding is confined to matching for the colour and markings
desired, many of which are mere hybrids or sports, like new
geraniums. A few of the more characteristic may, however, be
taken first.

Friil-backs answer to Frizzled fowls in poultry, and are
remarkable for each feather, except the flights and tail, being
curled or twisted in
a peculiar way. Like
‘the Frizzled fowls,
the peculiarity seems
independent of any
fixed colour or va-
riety, and birds are
found both plain-
headed and crested,
clean and feather-
legged, and of all
colours. But whites,
grizzles, and blacks
are most frequent,
in the order named.
Good birds of this
sort often take prizes
in a variety class.
The chief fault is
want of curl in some part of the body, especially over the
shoulders. In breeding, the best curled specimens should be
paired together, irrespective of colour, curl being of fax greater
moment than all else, and an odd colour standing, if anything,
a better chance.

Florentines, also called Burmese, are most peculiar and
characteristic pigeons. They are large, stand high on the leg,

FRILL BACKS.

FLORENTINES——-SWALLOWS. 205

and carry the tail nearly upright and the neck far back, so as
almost to touch. The flights are also short and carried high,
nearly meeting just under the tail. It will be readily seen,
from this description, as also from the engraving, that the
pigeon has a most ridiculous resemblance to a Bantam fowl.
They are found both
as whole-colovrs and
mottles. Mr. Ludlow
considers the breed
related to the Leg-
horn Runt, and on
comparing the figure
with that of the latter
bird, as given by
Eaton (see p. 193),
this will appear not
improbable.
Swallows are very
pretty and striking
birds, and sometimes
(though rarely) get a
class to themselves.
The beak is rather
long and thin, neck
shortish, legs muffed
and generally rather vultured, and the head adorned with
a well-defined shell-crest. The colour is as follows :—Head
coloured, clean cut through the mouth and eye, and reaching
to the base of the crest, which, with all the rest of the head
and neck, is white. The entire wing is also coloured, leaving
the tail, wing-coverts, and all the rest of the bird white,
except the shank-feather, the thighs being white. Swallows
are bred in all the usual colours, but blues are found of
a pure self-wing as well as black-barred. The chief

FLORENTINE, OR BURMESE,

206 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

points are colour and marking, and next to these heavy
leg-feather.

Priests resemble Swallows in shell-crest and muffed legs,
but have an additional tuft or crest over the nose, thus marking
a kind of transition between the Swallow and the more heavily-
furnished Trumpeter. The nasal tuft is found both rose-shaped
and parted. The upper mandible is light, the lower dark ;

SwaLLows.

nasal tuft and top of head white to the crest, which is coloured ;
crest and all else coloured, except white wing-bars ; rarely there
is also a white tail-band, which is an additional point of value.
In blues the white bars are edged with black. The colours are
blue, black, red, and yellow.

Brunswicks are like Priests, with the sole difference that the
white on the head extends over the shell-crest and the flights
are white.

Letz pigeons are of the same class, but the nasal tuft
becomes a well-developed “rose,” and the legs are more
heavily feathered and vulture-hocked: in all these points
making a still closer approach to the Trumpeter, a cross of

VARIOUS GERMAN TOYS. 207

which probably producei them. They are generally whole-
coloured, of various colours, with white bars.

Fairies, or Fairy Swallows, head a sub-variety of the
Swallow family. Generally they differ in being plain-headed,
but are also found shell-crowned and always muff-legged. They
are all white, except having coloured flights, coloured shanks
(white hocks), and a large, oval, coloured patch on the forehead.
The eye is dark, and the upper mandible. We once saw a bird
with a coloured saddle like that of a Magpie.

Shields are of the saine shape, with clean heads and mufied
legs, but differ in being all white, except the shoulders or sides
of wings, which are coloured as in the Turbit, but with white
bars, edged in blues with a narrow line of black. The eyes are
dark.

Crescents are of the same shape, but are all over creamy
white, except a pair of chocolate or brown bars, and a large
crescent, of the same colour, depending on the breast, the
two horns reaching up almost to the bauk of the eye.

Starlings are much like Crescents, but the colour is re-
versed. They are only known in black ; and, accordingly, are
of that colour all over, except a large dependent white crescent
on the breast, and a pair of white bars. They are known both
clean-legged and muffed, plain-headed and shell-crested.

Fire pigeons, or Fire-backs, seem to be of the same tribe
crossed with the Archangel. They have the heavy muffed legs,
with vulture hocks and clean heads. The colour is a rich
chestnut, with an indescribable lustre or fiery copper glow all
over the neck, sides, and back, sometimes ticked with black ;
the head, muffs, and under parts kite-black ; tail and coverts
white, and a white spot on the forehead. This is a very hand-
some pigeon, and- good specimens are much admired.

Ice pigeons have a Dove-house head, and are both clean-
legged and muffed. The characteristic of all the varieties is a
frosted, powdery bloom. ‘The eyes are generally dark, and also

208 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

the beak, but the eyes of some are orange. They are found of
various colours and patterns, the original appearing to be a
lavender, self-coloured bird. This is also found with white bars
edged with black. There are also blues, with white bars edged
with black, blue-black flights, and barred tails. And, finally,
there are various kinds of spangling on the sides, somewhat
resembling the patterns found in the Satinette tribe, with black
zig-zag markings on various coloured grounds. These kinds are
called Ural or Siberian Ice pigeons. The matching of these
birds must be conducted on the same general principles as have
been described for the Satinettes. Ice pigeons are very beautiful
when clean and of good quality, and such a specimen rarely
fails to score in the Any Variety class.

Hyacinths ave plain-headed and clean-legged, rather large,
and very hardy. Their points lie in the plumage. This is a
kind of purplish-blue over the body and tail, but the sides or
shoulders are tri-coloured, the ground-colour being a kind of
light brown, marked with black arrow-tips, enclosing a kind of
greyish or blue triangle. The marking in good specimens
extends over the back. Eyes orange, beak dark.

Victorias are simply Hyacinths of a lighter shade.

Porcelains are of the same class, but the black markings
are heavier, making a kind of link between this pigeon and the
Suabian.

The Suabian is generally heavily spangled with black on
the sides in a crescentic form, the black often having a peculiar
copper or bronzy lustre. This is either upon a white or varie-
gated ground, and the bird is more valued if the lower webs of
the flight-feathers also show a white spot. The tail is black,
and in some cases shows a white band, like the Satinette. The
head is generally black, ticked with white.

The last four birds appear more or less related, and the
Germans cross the various colours and markings together,
which makes the definition of varieties very difficult. There

HOMING PIGEONS. 209

are also sub-varieties with crests and with muffed legs, In fact,
the possible varieties of these pigeons must be endless. The most
singular thing about them is that European as well as Asiatic
fanciers should, quite independently, have found out the possi-
bility of producing a beautiful tri-coloured marking on one bird.
- Helmets are marked like Nuns, the top of the head and tail
being coloured, but without any crest. The flights are, how-
ever, generally white, though coloured flights are also shown.

Spots resemble Helmets, except that, in place of the whole
top of the head being coloured, there is only a large oval spot
on the forehead. They are occasionally seen shell-crested,
which brings out the Nun relationship very strongly. In fact,
apart from the tri-coloured birds, it may be said that nearly all
the rest of the Toys seem derived more or less from Nuns
and Trumpeters, bred to various colours and markings.

All the Toy pigeons are hardy birds, good breeders, and
capital feeders, but most of them are naturally of a rather wild
or shy disposition. We have found several of them, however,
rapidly lose this when brought up in confinement, and especially
if reared by hand. Many of them would be especially attrac-
tive to ladies and children if better known; and it is to be
much regretted that the Any Other Variety class at most shows,
by offering more prizes, does not do more to make the public
acquainted with a class of birds that possess at least zsthetic
beauty of a very high order,

CHAPTER XIX,
HOMING PIGEONS.

Tus is the accepted term now given to the pigeons used for

flying journeys, whether or not they are also given messages to

carry. It appears likely that the old Carriers, Dragoons, and

Horsemen were thus used; but these being now developed
°

210 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

into fancy breeds, independent of any such purpose, the term
Carrier only created confusion. For some time the names of
Flying Antwerp or Antwerp Carrier were used; but as the
term Antwerp has gradually attached itself to the show variety
developed: from these birds and described in Chapter XV.,
general consent has at length settled down to the name of
Homing Pigeons, which exactly expresses what is meant, and

Zo, was, we believe,
first employed
by Mr. Teget-
meier. The fact
is, the birds
used in flying
are of no fixed
type, and the
extraordinary
results attained
of late years
have been got
by the fusion
of different
strains. At
least three of
these have been
traced: one of
them being the English Dragoon; the second a really
Belgian pigeon called the Smerle, which from the round head
and occasional frill was evidently of Owl parentage; the
third a round-headed, pearl-eyed, high-flying bird, called the
Cumulet, and which was evidently related to the Tumbler.
We believe the long-faced Beard blood was also used, as we
noticed that one of the winners in the Alexandra Palace Races
of 1878 showed white beard, white thighs, and white flights,
though of the best Belgian ancestry.

Buus Homine PicEon.

ORIGIN OF HOMING PIGEONS. 211

All pigeons are strongly attached to their lomes, and will
fly back: to them as far as their powers allow. From time
immemorial this tendency has been used to make the birds
carry messages, as shown by Pliny and other classical authors ;
and it was early found that some strains, besides greater powers
of flight, possessed greater intelligence, memory, power of

Hl il Git tit a ;
ra a) ue kt le ‘a

fe ee
ie
: )

Al

THON
eu

au

Fig. 33.— AREA,

observation, or other qualities which enabled them better
than others to find their way home. These mental and bodily
qualities admit of being cultivated, like any others; and the
Homing Pigeon is a bird which, originally bred from various
sources, has been perfected by simply breeding together the
best performers, irrespective of shape or colour. The'types vary
a great deal even now; some have long and thinnish beaks, |
some short and thick. All colours come from the same strain,

212 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

and the Owl blood now and then comes out in a frill; but all
good flyers will, however, be found to have a bold eye, a
capacious forehead, and powerful wings. Much dispute and
heart-burning has been caused by the classes now so common
for the “best” flying pigeons at many shows. It is impossible
in a pen to select the “best.” Though a practised eye can
select. birds which, by their powerful pinions and other signs,
promise well, scarcely any large class fails to show examples of
the ‘“‘best” being overlooked, unless the judge recognises them ;
whereas, if the prizes were awarded for the “ handsomest”
Homing Pigeons, their right to class as such being decided by
the usual tests, the selection would speak for itself, and all
heart-burnings be removed. The only other way of avoiding
such disputes and absurdities would be to make such classes
local to the town where the show was held, to take the birds a
given journey, and award prizes to the first returned ; in other
words, to fly them ¢o the show or show-town instead of from it.
This plan may be recommended as likely to be of far greater
local interest, and placing the class on its true footing.

The loft for a stud of Homing Pigeons should be high.
Such a position is not only much easier found by the birds,
but experience teaches that there is much less loitering outside
than if low down, as in a garden; also much less danger from
cats. The birds being constantly in and out, a cage or area,
somewhat resembling Fig. 33, must be provided, by which the
pigeons can enter at all times, but cannot leave the loft without
the owner's permission. On reaching home they light upon a
ledge or board outside the area, and if the trap-door is open,
enter at once through the open space. If it is closed, they
etner by pushing inwards swing wire doors called “bolting-
wires,” provided for that purpose on each side of the trap-door,
and which will lift or swing from the top inwards, but are
prevented by a beading on the frame at the bottom from open-
ing outwards. In Fig. 33, these are represented as swinging

AREA AND BOLTING WIRES, 213

on a spindle; but the simplest way of making them is to
bend the wire at right angles, and hang the bend in smali
staples, as shown in Fig. 34. Besides the entering wires, it
is very handy to have one
or two bolting-wires be-
tween the area and the
loft, so that when a bird
comes in it cannot go at
once into the loft, but is
confined to the area,
where it can be easily caught. When not wanted, these inner
bolting-wires can be tied back to the top of the area. Young
pigeons soon learn to use these bolting-wires ; but while they
are doing so it is usual to accommodate them by a slide in the
top of the area, as
shown in Fig. 33.
By withdrawing
this, a square hole
is left, called a
“ dropping - hole,”
through which the
bird with wnex-
tended pinions cari
readily drop down,
but through which

Ble: Bi its flapping wings
will not allow it to fly in an upward direction.

If the loft is so situated that cats can reach it, precautions
must be taken against their entering, which can easily be done
by a balanced alighting board, shown in Fig. 35, where B repre-
sents the front of the area or loft, and c the bolting-wires.
The alighting board, pp, is fixed by a hinge, G, to a cross-
piece, F, which keeps the weight, E, from drawing the board
below a horizontal position. This weight should be a shade

214 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

more than the heaviest pigeon, or rather, enough to a little
more than balance the pigeon at the other end. Hence the
pigeon alights and finds the stage secure; but if a cat alights
the board at once tips up and lets her down. If there is a
series of bolting-wires, necessitating a wide stage, it must be
divided into strips or sections, and each piece balanced sepa-
rately. All entrances should be painted in some conspicuous
manner. It is often better to have no outside cage or area,
but to have it inside the loft instead.

The loft must be divisible into at least two divisions, arranged
so that either at pleasure can have access to the area or entrance.
This is easily managed, as shown in Fig. 36, where bc are the

e two compartments
a 7 divided by the parti-
\ ot tion, d d, and entered

by separate doors, / h.
The partition may be
of wire, boarded up a
foot or so from the
® . © floor. Near the front
of the loft the parti-
tion forks, as at fg,
a and a door turning at
the point of the fork
will give either side
Fig. 36. access to the entrance,
e. By this arrange-
ment imported birds can be confined while the young ones fly,
or old and young flown separately, &c. If space permits, it is
very desirable to have also some large breeding-pens in which
particular birds can be confined at pleasure.
The selection of breeding stock in this class of pigeons is a
very simple affair. The principle is this:—Given a dozen birds,
the progeny of one good pair. In training some of these will

PRINCIPLE OF BREEDING, 215

be lost altogether, and by the various tests one pair is found
best in strength and intelligence—for there is no doubt these
birds find their way home by observation and not by blind
instinct, as some suppose. The progeny of this best pair will
produce a greater number of good Homers than the inferior
birds would do. In Belgium the best performers only have
been bred from for generations, and the rigorous training
weeds out the inferior ones wholesale. These come over to
England largely, and can be had at a cheap rate. But to
breed from them is to reverse all the rules by which success
was obtained ; it is exactly analogous to attempting to breed
fancy pigeons from parents which possess no properties. The
only road to success is the simple rule of only breeding
from proved good performers. Much crossing is required to
keep up nervous and muscular energy; but every cross
must be the very best performer the purse can afford.

It follows that the breeder of Homing Pigeons must face
wholesale losses; unless his training is severe enough to
discard all below a certain standard, in fact, he cannot succeed.
His losses are not mere accidents, but part of his process, and
simply represent to him the inferior birds of the fancier. This
should be well understood, as many attempt to avoid losing birds
in this way by training easily. They keep the birds; but they
lose all the qualities for which they are valuable.

It will be seen that it is useless to start a loft by buying
old birds to turn loose. If worth their salt, they would be off
at once. When old ones are purchased, therefore, they must
either be confined in a loft and wire aviary, or all the web of
the feather may be stripped from the shafts of the flights on
one side, and the birds let out after going to nest. It is best,
as a rule, to obtain young ones just able to leave their parents.
As soon as these are strong enough to fly, they should be allowed
for some days to view the neighbourhood from the area, without
being let out; after which preparation they may be let out

216 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

with any old bird or two just after feeding at night. They will
then be disposed to return very soon, and after a few days can
be allowed to fly round the house. It is advisable to test them
a little as opportunity offers, and any losses by this will
only save time and money in the end.

Homing Pigeons should be paired early, m order that the
young birds may be in time for the summer races. Being
very strong, they do not suffer from this. In starting from a
few good birds, some pairs of common feeders are useful, as
each pair can then bring up one bird, and rear it extra strong
and hearty. Young ones, as soon as they know the locality.
a bit, are usually let out every morning fasting, to accustom
them to have a good fly and come in sharp. If let out with
food in their crops they are apt to loiter, which is a very bad
habit, as they may do the same on arriving from a race. Here,
again, is the great use of having a separate division in the loft.

Young birds should not be trained at all till they know the
immediate neighbourhood thoroughly well, and are strong on
the wing, which will rarely be till three months old. They
should be first tossed early in the morning, unfed, about five or
six hundred yards from home only, when as soon as they get
up they should recognise it. If they do not, the sooner they
are lost the better. They should be thus tossed in all directions,
on. successive days if possible, but always in fine weather; by
which they will learn to know their own immediate neighbour-
hood in all directions, and also the habit of making for home
after being carried in a basket. The next tosses may be half
a mile, all round as before; then a mile or more, which should
in most places accustom them to any part of their own town.
We strongly advocate these small increments at first, as
teaching the birds what is wanted, and giving them a fair
chance. After that the distances may increase, though we are
sure it is best by easy stages to teach the birds their own
neighbourhood for five miles all round, always on an empty

MODE OF TRAINING. 217

stomach, and never tossing near a building, which might tempt
them to pitch. The birds should be ébrown steadily, well up,
and taking care to open the hand so as not to pull out any
feathers.

After this we would toss at ten miles, and thence by about
ten mile stages to fifty miles. After that the tosses must be as
happens, from fifteen to thirty miles apart, and losses increase.
In Belgium they will make the training stages fifty or a hundred
miles, or even more apart; but the losses from such are enormous,
and rapidly weed out all but afew. In fact, we are convinced
those few often reach home more by luck than talent, and that
some of the besé birds are thus thrown away. As soon as
systematic training commences, regular notes should be kept of
all the different performances, with the weather, wind, and all
circumstances ; for the rule must be rigorously observed of

‘never breeding from a bird that habitually comes in late in a
race. We do not consider that young birds should be flown
beyond one hundred and fifty miles the first season.

The English system formerly was to toss the birds singly.
The Belgian system is to open the basket and let all fly at once.
By:the latter plan much fewer are lost, as the more sagacious
nurse the others home, showing them at least the proper direc-
tion. Of late the Belgian plan has become usual in England.

The baskets or panniers used in training vary in size and
pattern, but are generally oblong. They should be, however,
nine inches clear in depth, and every bird should have at least
twenty-seven to thirty superficial inches of floor space. The
best material for the bottom is the dry tan we have already
recommended. It is clean and wholesome, and the birds can
see grain on it better than on anything else. It is usual,
however, to have one or both ends of the basket partially open,
so that the pigeons can put their heads out for food and water.
There is generally a small trap-door in the cover to put the birds
in, and the whole cover lifts up to start the birds. ‘The covers

218 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

are secured by straps. The ends of these straps are usually
secured by strings, the knot of which is embraced in a hole
made in a disc of lead, which is then stamped or sealed on both
sides by a pair of pincer-dies, in order to show that the basket
and its contents have not been tampered with.

It does not, for obvious reasons, answer to fly hens during
the breeding season, except at about eight or nine days after
hatching ; and cocks should not be flown for four or five days
after hatching, as the soft meat would prevent their winning.
The plumage should also be in good order; and as moulting time
approaches this should be carefully looked to before a race, for
a bird minus part of its: flight-feathers would be at a very
great disadvantage. It is well also to examine the feet, and
see if any dirt or excrement adheres; if so, it should be
removed, as even a few grains is so much dead weight to carry.

Birds in training are stamped before each stage and when
entering ; they also often have the owner’s name and address,
Ordinary type of a heavy kind, set up in a small holder made
for the purpose, answers well for this, and india-rubber stamps
are also used, The marks are stamped on the broadest flights or
tail-feathers, the feather being spread out on a few sheets of
blotting-paper laid on the table or a piece of wood, and the
stamp, covered with printer’s ink evenly distributed on an
inking-pad, firmly impressed. AI] these details are fixed and
carried out by various Societies, through whom most of the
pigeon-racing is carried on, the members’ subscriptions helping
to defray the expenses of training. Wherever possible, it is
Lest. to send an attendant, which can be done when there are
many to divide the expenses, who can feed and water the birds
properly. When this is impossible, it is usual to send to the
station-masters ai the training-stations where the birds are to
be tossed, and who on most lines are very obliging in this way.

Pigeon-racing can never become so general, or such long
distances become customary, in England as in Belgium or in

THE PARIS PIGEON POST. 219

France. Our atmosphere is damp and foggy and our country
hilly, intercepting the view of the birds, whilst on the Con-
'tinent the covntry is flat and the air singularly clear. In
Belgium thousands of birds will be entered for a single
race, and every fourth man is deeply interested in the sport,
which is subsidised by Government and by leading men,
while the railways afford special facilities for the thousands
of panniers which pass to and fro. Many pigeons are also
kept in training for military purposes, and the regular pigeon
‘post which carried letters into beleaguered Paris is well remem-
bered. In this case the birds were sent out of the city at every
opportunity or by balloons. The messages were collected, set
up in type in four columns like a newspaper, and photo-
graphed on a film of collodion about one inch by two, or on
fine paper, which was rolled up and placed in a small quill, the
quill being tied by the ends to the stem of one of the centre
feathers of the tail. On receipt the messages were deciphered
by a microscope and written out for transmission, one of the
small slips described holding several hundred of them, the fees
(at a regular tariff of a franc per word) costing over £100.

In England pigeons have been employed for carrying mes-
sages from light-ships to the shore, and racing has made great
strides of late years. As a rule, the longest distances available
are from such towns as Berwick or Newcastle to London or
Brighton ; but occasionally races take place across the Channel
from Paris or other cities further inland.

- Observation has shown that the greatest speed for the whole
of a race is about a mile per minute. This is very rarely
attained, the average being only half that. On the other hand,
as this necessarily includes some rest, it is plain the actual
speed must be even greater; and, in fact, short distances are
done at a greater rate.

The introduction of long-distance races has revolutionised
pigeon-flying in England. No doubt the old style of public-

220 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER,

house matches is still kept up; but the various pigeon Societies
which cultivate more ambitious contests are now supported by
men of position and influence, and the pursuit has grown
immensely in public favour since the Franco-German war.

Movenese Fryina PiceEon.

Modena Flying Pigeons.—Before concluding this work, we
must briefly mention the peculiar kind of pigeon-flying prac-
tised for centuries past in the city of Modena, as described by
Signor Malmusi and Professor P. Bonizzi, summaries of whose
notes on the subject have been published by Dr. Baldamus in
Dresden, and more lately in England by Mr. J. C. Lyell.
The peculiarity of these pigeons is their mode of flight and
training by the V'riganieri, or pigeon-flyers, which there is
documentary evidence to carry back to the year 1327. The

MODENESE FLYING PIGEONS. 221

various flocks are trained to fly in any direction pointed out by
the flag of their owner; to fly to the highest tower of the
cathedral at a given signal; to mix with other flocks at
another; and at yet another to return home; the object of
each Triganiere being to call home all his own pigeons, with
as many as he can of those so mixed with them in the mélée.
Each pigeon so captured is generally redeemed at the price of a
lira, It is also stated that some of these pigeons have been
trained to be sent out of the city on messages; and that
generally they obey the strictest discipline in feeding and other

. respects ; coming to the owner’s shoulder or finger at the word
of command, and eating out of any one of the feeding-vessels
designated by him. If the former statement be true, it reverses
the ordinary method of sending messages by homing birds ; but
in any case the obedience of the Modenese pigeons whilst in the
air to every command of their owner opens up a new and very
interesting chapter of the pigeon fancy.

There is reason to believe that while the system of training
and flying these pigeons in Modena is very ancient, the present
variety is comparatively a modern creation. We take from
the German work of Dr. Baldamus the accompanying illustra-
tion of a “Magpie” Modenese pigeon, from which it will be
seen that the thighs and legs are long, the head carried high,
and in a brisk manner, and the beak stout, and rather short.
The tail is desired to be carried high, either horizontal or
slightly raised, and is longer than the flights. The marking in
this particular variety resembles that of the Nun in the head,
with coloured wings, flights, and tail: any artijicially-coloured
bars are valued; but black or brown bars are eschewed. Of
colour and markings there are, however, almost countless
varieties, the rarest being most esteemed.

222 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

CHAPTER XX.
DISEASES OF PIGEONS,

THEBE is more difliculty in doctoring pigeons than most other
domestic creatures, owing to the very great differences in the
circumstances under which a given complaint may have to be
treated. This is well exemplified in the well-known uncertainty
of purgatives as regards these birds. Supposing a sick pigeon
has been fed on sound old beans, it will readily be understood
by any one who has read Chapter II. of this work that an
ordinary purge would probably act energetically ; but when we
remember that a sudden change to softer food usually purges a
bird freely, we shall easily see why, if our bird had been fed on
such laxative dict--say wheat—it might be comparatively little
affected by laxative medicine. The amount of exercise, air,
&ec., also vary so widely that any one who shall attempt the task
of a pigeon-doctor may well expect a disheartening variety of
effect from his prescriptions. The subject is, however, better
understood now than formerly, and the following hints have
at least all been of proved service in actual cases.

The doses are for ordinary pigeons, full grown, and should
be diminished or increased according to size. Their effect will
be greater so far as known circumstances are taken into account
and care taken to act in accordance: for instance, giving a milder
purge, with some change of food, toa bird fed on constipating
diet ; or adopting more rough and active treatment for colds
or roup with birds at large, and milder measures for such as
are in confinement.

Canker is a general term among pigeon breeders for an
ulcerous or foul growth, which may assume different forms and
appear in different places. The matter is usually yellowish,
and wattled pigeons are peculiarly subject to have it in the ear
and about the head, whilst all varieties are subject to cankers

TREATMENT OF CANKER. 223

or foul growths in the mouth or throat. Carriers are also
liable occasionally to outbreaks on the wattle. General
experience seems to prove that many forms are contagious ;
but it is possible the fact may simply be that similar conditions
cause the same ailment more or less through a loft. Canker of
some form or other has repeatedly been traced to foul, neglected
water, either in bath or fountain. This should, therefore, never
occur, though cases also happen where the greatest cleanliness
has been observed. We have already expressed the opinion
that the deprivation of green focd has probably much to do
with the disposition to this type of disease ; and we have also
reason to believe that scraped cuttle-fish is of the greatest
value as a preventive.

For external cases the most valuable application is carbolic
acid. To cankered spots on the wattle, in those malignant
cases sometimes called “small-pox,” the acid may be applied
in full strength by a camel-hair pencil, at intervals of twenty-
four hours till checked, afterwards cleansing with diluted acid,
one part toa hundred. In this ‘form, two or three purges of
Epsom salts often assist a cure. To canker in the ear, about
the head, or in the mouth, it is better to apply a dilution of one
part saturated acid to eight parts glycerine, twice in twenty-
four hours, till the diseased secretion is evidently checked.
Another method of treatment recommended by Mr. Betty for
canker in the ear is to inject for several days a solution of
sugar of lead, three grains to the ounce, followed by a
solution of sulphate of zinc of the same strength. To the
more virulent forms of canker which sometimes appear near
the joining of the mandibles, especially in Tumblers, either
the undiluted acid or the glycerine dilution may be applied,
according to circumstances. Some breeders cut off the affected
parts and apply lunar caustic to the healthy surface left by the
cut ; but after prescribing for many cases, we can recommend
the carbolic acid application as—if not infallible—by far the most

224 TILE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER,

generally successful. There is, however, one most important
circumstance to add, as bearing on internal treatment. Many
post-mortem examinations* have revealed the fact that fatal
cases of canker are very often associated with scrofulous or
tuberculous disease of the liver. Guided by this indication,
when canker has largely affected young birds in a loft, as it
often does, we have prescribed the administration of three to
ten drops (according to size and age of the young bird), twice
daily, of syrup of hypophosphite of iron or soda, with the best
effects. It should be given just after each feed, as soon as the
young squeaker is old enough to bear the administration of the
bread or oatmeal pill in which it must be mixed, and is the
nearest to a specific for scrofulous or tuberculous constitution
that we know.

In a large class of cases canker attacks the throat,
especially of young birds, and grows there with alarming
rapidity, being also, to all appearances, infectious. ‘This form
of the disease deserves to be called diphtheria, and may even
be that complaint; it is, at least, certainly encouraged by.
want of pure air, and as evidently discouraged by ample ven-
tilation. Here the medicine should be a few drops of iron
tonic with chlorate of potass, and the application to the throat
must be different. The best prescription is as follows :—Car-
bolic acid, one drachm ; sulphurous acid, three drachms; solution
of perchloride of iron, half an ounce; glycerine, half an ounce;
to be applied several times a day with a camel-hair pencil. In
all cases of canker and diphtheria the greatest cleanliness
should be observed, and the pens and loft copiously syringed
with diluted Condy’s Fluid. Mild cases of canker in the nest
can often be cured by an ordinary rhubarb pill, or perhaps a
second may be needed; such cases being often really due to
improper food, and consequent indigestion.

* Made by competent veterinary authorities through Zhe Live Stock
Journal,

COLD—INFLAMMATION OF THE LUNGS. 225

Sometimes the tongue is too long for the mouth, and the
constant irritation causes canker in the lower mandible. In
such cases, cutting off the tip of the tongue and dressing the
affected place twice a day with salicylic acid will almost always
effect a cure.

Colds, if taken in time, will often yield to very simple
treatment. As soon as any watery secretion in nose or eyes is
noticed, give a small pinch of Epsom salts, and put the bird in
a warm pen, bathing the legs every night in hot water, and
carefully drying after. A second mode of treatment that often
answers is to give every morning a few bits of sugar the size
of a pea, on which have been dropped spirits of camphor. A
drop twice daily of tincture of aconite is another good medicine
in many cases—the mother tincture, given in a little water.
In all cases, removal to a pen out of the. draught is the main
thing. If the running is at all profuse, bathe the eyes or
nostrils with warm tea.

In severe colds, especially where bronchitis or inflammation
of the lungs are suspected, it is often of great benefit to apply
diluted ointment of biniodide of mercury to the ribs or under
the wings once a day for three or four days; or spirits of
turpentine may be rubbed in over a space the size of a shilling
between the shoulders. In all such cases the birds should be
mainly fed on oatmeal pills soaked in milk, or other soft
food. Inflammation of the lungs is best distinguished from a
merely severe cold, by the marked high temperature.

Constipation will usually yield to either jalap, Epsom salts,
or castor-oil. Another very simple and useful purge is a tea-
spoonful of warm treacle.

Crop-bound is in pigeons practically confined to Pouters,
and has been treated of at page 152.

Crop, Watery, see Foul Crop.
P

226 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

Diarrhea is a very frequent complaint, especially when
care is not taken of the quality of the food. A castor-oil cap-
sule or a few drops of rhubarb and laudanum mixture will _
generally check it, if taken in time; in more severe cases, or
which do not yield to the foregoing, regular doses of two to
three drops of chlorodyne, according to the usual directions on
the bottle, will generally suffice. If blood appearing should
show a tendency to dysentery, about the only hope of saving
the bird will be doses every four hours of one to three drops
of laudanum in a spoonful of arrowroot or gruel. As a last
resort, a grain of tannic acid may be added to the laudanum,
but is so powerful an astringent as to be dangerous, and should
only be risked when all else has failed.

Diphtheria, see Canker.

Lgg-bound birds will generally yield to treatment. In
many cases it is sufficient to introduce an oiled feather into the
vent. If this fails, hold the vent for some minutes over the
steam from hot water, and then replace quietly in the nest. If
this still fails after some hours, a tea-spoonful of warm treacle
mixed with finely-minced groundsel will often be found effica-
cious. In all cases the cock should be excluded till the difficulty
is over, as his solicitude and persecution will only make matters
worse.

Eyes, Inflamed.In some cases a severe cold or other
irritation seems to lead to a small white speck on the eye,
which increases and ultimately causes loss of sight. Such
symptoms, or films, or any severe inflammation may often be
successfully combated by dropping into the eye night and
morning a drop of solution of atropine, two grains to the
ounce; or, if preferred, tincture of belladonna. A three-grain
solution of nitrate of silver is also often useful, but in such
cases it is well to consult a doctor.

FOUL CROP—GOING LIGHT. 227

Foul Crop is a name given to a complaint that particularly
attacks Pouters, but is found in other varieties also. The crop is
more or less full of offensive fluid, and the food passes out very
slowly, the organ being evidently flabby and torpid. Old cases
are often incurable; but when taken in reasonable time the
complaint will generally yield to boluses made of powdered char-
coal, mixed up with butter and a little oatmeal to bind them
together till swallowed. A couple may be given morning and
evening, giving food and drink very sparingly. Often a few
drops daily of quinine and iron mixture afterwards are of
service. Sometimes this complaint comes on while feeding
young, the bird leaving its squeakers, and moping and losing
weight rapidly. In such cases there is usually a torpid liver,
and benefit will be found from a quarter of a grain of calomel,
mixed with one and a half to three grains of rhubarb, accord-
ing to the size of the bird: Sometimes a second pill may be

needed after two days, following with the charcoal.

Fractures, when accessible, are pretty easily treated by
splints made of brown paper smeared with white of egg.
Stiffer substances are unsuitable, the greatest gentleness being
necessary.

.

Gizzard Fallen, see Prolapsus.

Going Light is aterm applied by fanciers toa wasting away,
which is apt to attack young birds at a few months old, par-
ticularly short-faced Tumblers. It may also occur at a later
period, but the most dangerous time is with young birds at some
time during their first moult. Numerous post-mortem examina-
tions have shown that the cause is not uniform, as once supposed,
but that the cases range themselves into no less than three
distinct categories ; a fact which accounts for the various results
of any one mode of treatment. Unfortunately the symptoms
which distinguish one class of cases from another are not clear,
and only probable conclusions can be drawn. The first class

,

228 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

arises from inflammation (often accompanied by ‘alceration) of the
bowels. We should suspect this cause when young birds were
affected as they began to feed themselves or after any marked
change of food; or when older ones were attacked when first
feeding young; or when the bird almost from the first, and
rather suddenly, assumed a huddled-up, rough, woe-begone
attitude, which, however, distinguishes most sick pigeons before
the end. In cases of this type the remedy is laudanum (see
Diarrhea), and the bird should be fed on pellets of oatmeal
mixed with boiled milk. The second class of cases arise from
what is truly consumption, or tubercle, and is to be suspected
generally when the birds appear to gasp for breath towards the
end, Such are practically hopeless, and show a diseased con-
stitution. The only remedy would be to give, as soon as old
enough, from the nest-pan, a few drops daily of syrup of hypo-
phosphite of soda. This will act as a preventive in many cases;
but we would always try to change or renovate the strain. The
third class of cases is much allied, but depends upon a strumous
rather than consumptive tendency. These cases afford most
room for treatment, and may be suspected when they occur
largely at moulting time. They are diagnosed beyond doubt
when examination shows scrofulous deposit in the liver, or
when accompanied by wing disease, or gouty swellings on the
legs or joints, in the same loft. Here, again, constant doses
from infancy of hypophosphite, but in this case choosing syrup
of hypophosphite of iron, will be of the greatest benefit; or
Parrish’s compound Syrup of Phosphates may be given in the
same way; and as the critical time approaches a capsule should
be added daily of cod-liver oil. This treatment we have proved
in several cases to have worked a wonderful change in the
number of squeakers reared in the loft. Plucking the tail is
sometimes of great service, but is not suitable for some
varieties on account of the plumage coming again with blemishes,
as with Almonds and Fantails.

GOUT—-LAMENESS. 229

Gout is a term applied, with or without reason, to swellings
on the legs, particularly at the joints. It will often yield te
painting daily with spirits of turpentine or tincture of iodine.
One should be tried for a fortnight, and if it fails, the other.
This should be combined with internal daily doses of a few
drops of quinine and iron mixture, or of syrup of hypophos-
phite of iron, We have also known benefit follow, when all
_other medicine had failed, minute doses of iodide of potassium ;
and Mr. Betty strongly recommends a drachm of bicarbonate
of potass or carbonate of magnesia to each pint of drinking
water, as correcting the acidity of the blood and tending to
remove the deposits. He also advises the application of
biniodide of mercury ointment to the diseased joints.

Insects should be guarded against as described in Chapter
III. If birds do become infested with any kind, a little
mercurial ointment, diluted with three to five parts lard (most
diluted for small birds), should be applied behind the head,
near the vent, and under the wings. Petroleum ointment is
safer and often eflicacious.

Lameness sometimes affects pigeons quite suddenly in the
most mysterious manner. Mr. Fulton, whose crowded lofts
give him unusual opportunities of observation, states, however,
that he has frequently noticed, after pigeons have struck
hard against anything in flying, and no apparent mischief has
followed, this sudden lameness has occurred later ; from which
it is likely that the cause is severe shock, of precisely the same
kind as sometimes develops such serious ulterior results from a
railway accident. Quiet and rest are the best remedies; and
it is probable that sedatives, such as an occasional } grain of
opium or 3 grain of bromide of potassium, might be of benefit

Leg Weakness, see Chapter on Poutera

230 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER.

Megrims is the curious term applied to a nervous or brain
disease, shown by various twistings or turnings of the head, or
turning round of the whole body, more or less constant and
marked. A free incision at the back of the skull will some-
times relieve the brain and cause a cure; but such cases are
not hopeful. We should also be disposed to try seclusion in a
rather dark pen, with daily doses of j5 grain of acetate of
morphia, or if that failed, 4 grain of bromide of potassium.
Mr. Betty recommends opening the bowels with castor oil ora
compound aloe pill, followed by pills made thusTHalf a grain of
carbonate of ammonia, a quarter of a grain of camphor, one
grain of carbonate of soda, divided into eight pills, one given
twice or thrice a day.

Prolapsus is a very frequent complaint. The first symptom
is a soft swelling at or near the vent, which gradually becomes
worse, and may or may not harden, till the bird is useless. The
complaint was called “ gizzard-fallen ” by old fanciers, but is
really a descent of the intestines or other internal organs near
the part, due either to original weakness and relaxation of the
tissues, or to debility consequent upon excessive sexual appe-
tite; the latter being the most frequent cause. We are not
sure that cure is possible, but we have seen apparent benefit
follow an astringent injection of alum three times a day,
accompanied by exposing the vent to a stream of cold water for
a few minutes. Such birds should not be bred from.

Rheumatism is difficult sometimes to distinguish from gout,
but is more apt to occur at moulting time or in wet weather.
Warmth and dryness, away from draught, and the biniodide
of mercury ointment mentioned under gout, with the alkaline
water, are the most serviceable remedies. Sometimes rubbing
the affected limbs with camphorated oil is of great benefit.

Roup in pigeons may be treated with Walton’s Pills and
seclusion in a pen free from draught, first giving a mild aperient,

ROUP—SPOUTS. 231

such as a pinch of Epsom salts. The nostrils should be cleansed
night and morning with diluted chlorinated soda. If this fails,
we would dress the nostrils (but not the eyes) with diluted car-
bolic acid, one part to 100 of water, well shaken up before
using, and give a small capsule of copaiba each evening for a
few days, followed by an aperient. This medicine should not.
however, be given till the secretion has run its course for some
days. If the eyes are much affected, much benefit is often
found from bathing morning and evening with warm green tea.
By roup is only understood severe cold, accompanied by conta-
gion, and a secretion from the eyes or nostrils which hardens
as it dries. If more solid matter is found in the throat or else-
where, treat as for Canker, which see.

Spouts are confined to wattled pigeons, and consist of a
folded corner in the lower eyelid, through which there is a
constant gradual drain of fluid, which much weakens the bird.
The treatment is to cut the spout clean out with curved scissors.
Before doing so the inner surface should be carefully examined,
when little nodules or pimples will often be seen. These must
all be cut clean away, however extensive may be the required
excision ; but it is always best to operate on a spout in good
time, as this often saves more severe measures at a later period.
However wide the gap left by the cut, it generally fills up
well. Before cutting, and whenever necessary to clean, dip
the blades of the scissors in Condy’s Fluid, and apply the same
with a very soft sponge after the cut till bleeding is stopped,
after which put on the wound a very small bit of zinc ointment.
This must be renewed every day, and especial care taken to
prevent the eyelids sticking together, which may occur if the
ointment dressing be not regularly attended to. If both eyes
need operating upon, Mr. Fulton advises that they be done at
once, and that the tops of both wattles be drawn upwards by
a silk thread through them and passing over the head, which

232 THE PRACTICAL PIGEON KEEPER

will effectually prevent them from coming down and adhering
to the wound.

Before operating the bird must be bandaged, and it should
be kept in a box, unable to move, for a few hours, till the
wound is a little hardened. "When released the legs must be
tied together so as only to allow the bird to walk in its pen,
but not lift either foot to scratch the eye. It is also well to
smear some zinc ointment on the shoulder, in order that if the
bird rubs its eye thereon it may do no damage, but rather get
a fresh application of the healing dressing.

Wing-disease is usually a sign of scrofulous taint, but
probably developed in most cases by accident. A hardish
yellowish lump forms on the joint, and the wing either drops
or becomes stiff. The lump is to be painted every other day
with the strongest iodine liniment, also the under side opposite
to it. The wing itself should be clipped with scissors down to
a stump, so as to have rest for the remainder of the season.
We have found this treatment more successful than painting
with turpentine and slinging the wing, which may, however,
also be tried, as advised by Mr. Fulton. If taken early, it is
generally enough simply to pluck all the flights, and also all
the short feathers near the swelling. In all cases we would
give a few drops daily of syrup of hypophosphite of soda.

There is another form of tumour in which the swelling is
filled with fluid; in this case the wing should be plucked and
the blister opened, when the re-growth of the feathers will
usually prevent matter forming again.

Wounds of all sorts should be thoroughly cleansed with a
clean sponge and Condy’s Red Fluid, plucking the neighbour-
hood if necessary. ‘Then apply zinc ointment, and repeat this
occasionally til} healed.

Prinrep sy Cassztt & Company, Limirzp, La Bette Sauvace, Lonpon, E.G
10,501