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http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924000282065

THE FRUIT GARDEN

A CHERRY ORCHARD IN SPRING.

THE ‘“‘COUNTRY LIFE”
LIBRARY.

THE

FRUIT GARDEN

BY

GEORGE BUNYARD, V.MH.

AND

OWEN THOMAS, V.M.H.

SECOND EDITION

LONDON: PUBLISHED AT THE OFFICES OF “COUNTRY
LIFE,” Lrv., TAVISTOCK STREET, COVENT GARDEN, W.C.
GEORGE NEWNES, Lrv., SOUTHAMPTON STREET, STRAND
W.C.; & CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS, NEW YORK. MCMVI

\.
\

Oy

PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION

Ir has been very gratifying to receive assurances that “The Fruit
Garden” has not only proved of the greatest help to the amateur,
but has also had considerable influence in extending fruit culture
in this country, and in directing its practice on sound lines. The
authors, therefore, are very glad to be able to announce a cheaper
edition of this work, admittedly the finest book on the culture of
fruit trees yet published, with the object of placing it within the reach
of those to whom the higher price was prohibitive. Some slight
revision of the contents has been made, but the book remains
practically the same. ‘‘The Fruit Garden” appeals to the amateur
gardener by reason of the concise and plainly written information
and faithful diagrams it contains, and will be found equally valu-
able by the professional grower of wider experience in fruit culture
out-of-doors, and under glass. In view of the efforts now directed
towards the teaching of practical gardening in elementary and
secondary schools and by County Councils, ‘The Fruit Garden”
will be found invaluable, and should be in the hands of every
student. The authors feel confident that this cheaper edition will
be welcomed by all growers of fruit, whether for home or for the
market, and that it will give still further impetus to fruit culture
in Britain.

February 1906.

PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION

In this country fruit culture has only of late years received the
recognition its importance deserves. Its value has been brought
home to us by the enormous importations of fruit from the Con-
tinent, our Colonies, and America, which fail altogether to meet
the increasing demand. That we should have to depend so largely
upon supplies from abroad, when our own country can produce
fruit of such excellence, is a serious reflection upon the intelligence
and enterprise of British fruit-growers. Landowners and cultivators
in Britain are thereby deprived of their share of the wealth sent
abroad for articles which can be grown quite as well at home, and
for which the best markets are ready at our doors.

There are signs throughout the kingdom that we are slowly
waking up, both to the importance of the subject and the possibilities
of its development. This is manifest in several ways: for instance,
fruit culture is now an optional subject in numerous schools;
hundreds of acres of fruit trees are planted annually, either in estab-
lishing new or in renovating old orchards, and anxious inquiries
are continually received by the horticultural Press for information
on this important matter. Impressed by these considerations, it was
thought by the authors and other experts that a comprehensive and
up-to-date work, dealing with the question in a thoroughly practical
manner, would, at the present time, render valuable aid in bringing
this movement to a successful issue. It is in the hope that their
life-long and practical experience in the various phases of fruit culture
may prove useful, that the authors place their services at the disposal
of the public. No efforts have been spared to make “The Fruit
Garden” a trustworthy guide to the production of fruit, both to
the professional gardener who devotes his life to the work, and to

vu

Vili PREFACE

the many amateurs who engage in gardening as a recreation. The
help of experts in various special branches of fruit-growing has
been secured, and their several names appear above the chapters they
have contributed.

The methods practised in America, France, and the Channel
Islands are also described by competent authorities in each of those
countries, in order that cultivators may be able to take advantage
of their advice if it should promise to lead to better results than
those at present obtained. It is also hoped that the numerous
sketches and photographic illustrations, which have been selected
primarily for their teaching value, will be found helpful.

We are much indebted for the opportunity of illustrating various
fruits, fruit trees, &c., to Messrs. James Veitch & Sons, Limited ;
Thomas Rivers & Son; Mackenzie & Moncur, Limited; Thos.
Rochford & Sons; Joseph Rochford; Peter Kay, and James Walker;
and for the outline drawings of fruits to members of Mr. George
Bunyard’s family.

Hearty thanks are also due to Mr. H. H. Thomas (sub-editor
of The Garden), who has rendered valuable assistance.

GEORGE BUNYARD.
OWEN THOMAS.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I
THE APPLE

CHAPTER II

THE APRICOT

CHAPTER III

THE BARBERRY—BLACKBERRIES AND ALLIED FRUITS—CHECKER TREE

CHAPTER IV

THE CHERRY—THE CRAB

CHAPTER V

RED, WHITE, AND BLACK CURRANTS

CHAPTER VI

THE FIG

CHAPTER VII

FRUIT TREES IN POTS

CHAPTER VIII

THE GOOSEBERRY—THE MEDLAR .

CHAPTER IX

THE MELON—THE MULBERRY

CHAPTER X

THE NUT

CHAPTER XI

THE PEACH AND NECTARINE

PAGE

23

30

32

46

Si

59

70

80

go

94

Vill CONTENTS

CHAPTER XII

THE PEAR

CHAPTER XIII

THE PINEAPPLE

CHAPTER XIV

THE PLUM—THE QUINCE

CHAPTER XV

THE RASPBERRY

CHAPTER XVI

THE STRAWBERRY .

CHAPTER XVII
THE TOMATO .

CHAPTER XVIII

TROPICAL FRUITS AND HOW TO GROW THEM

CHAPTER XIX

THE VINE

CHAPTER XX

FRUIT TREES AS FLOWERING TREES

CHAPTER XXI

PLANTING FRUIT TREES

CHAPTER XXII
HOW TO ERECT A FRUIT-HOUSE

CHAPTER XXIII

FRUIT STORAGE

CHAPTER XXIV

PROPAGATION OF FRUIT TREES

PAGE

116

141

151

162

167

193

205

217

252

255

261

265

270

CONTENTS

CHAPTER XXV

WHOLE-FRUIT PRESERVATION . .

CHAPTER XXVI

INJURIOUS INSECTS AND DISEASES AFFECTING FRUIT TREES

CHAPTER XXVII

CONSTRUCTION OF FRUIT-HOUSES

CHAPTER XXVIII

FRUIT CULTURE IN AMERICA

CHAPTER XXIX

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE . .

CHAPTER XXX

FRUIT CULTURE IN THE CHANNEL ISLANDS

OUTLINE DRAWINGS OF FRUIT
INDEX . : : . .

INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

282

294

305

327

384

397

497

502

INTRODUCTION

DEFINITIONS AND EXPLANATIONS

Turovucuout this work it is possible that terms may be used which are not
familiar to the general reader ; the authors therefore deem some explanation to
be necessary. In descriptions and Jists of fruits the name first given is the
generally accepted one, and synonyms are enclosed in brackets. The letter T
signifies that the fruit against which it is placed is suitable for table or dessert.
The letter K indicates the variety to be suitable for cooking (kitchen) purposes
only.

In determining varieties of hardy fruits the skin is an important factor ;
this varies so considerably in colour, markings, and substance as often to enable
a fruit to be identified by this means alone. The term greasy is used in refer-
ence to those fruits which, either on the tree or when stored, have a somewhat
oily surface. This is more often developed upon the earlier apples, although
some late ones are not free from it. “The word dry indicates a skin that has
not this greasy appearance. A harsh surface is one of such a texture as almost
to set one’s teeth on edge when handling the fruit ; the skin is said to be rough
when roughness can be felt by the hand; the terms smooth or shining are given
to fruits whose surfaces are free from russet or harshness.

The variability of colour in hardy fruits often is the cause of difficulty in
their identification, because the locality, soil, form, and position of the tree
make a great difference, and affect the colour to a remarkable degree. For
instance, an apple like Cockle’s Pippin, when in characteristic form, should be
entirely covered with a thin netted russet ; but in some seasons, like those of
1898 to 1900, it has been almost perfectly smooth and green. Another of our
brightest apples, Gascoigne’s Scarlet Seedling, frequently fails to colour in the
Midlands and the North; while the fruit exhibitions at the Crystal Palace have
shown us apples from Hereford with cheeks quite scarlet, and which in Kent
are usually pale. In connection with this subject of colour it should be stated
that the ground colour of the fruit is first named. All the descriptions have
been made from typical specimens, suitable for exhibition; in other words,
from fruits in the best possible condition, so that a considerable discount must be
allowed in the case of those badly cultivated, not thinned, or from counties less
happily situated than the more favoured districts. Again, some fruits entirely
alter their appearance after they have been stored for a few months. The
more or less pronounced green colour which most fruits have at the time of
gathering gives way to paler tints; a primrose colour, pale orange, &c., appear,
then the colour on the sunny side, whether crimson, bronze, scarlet, as may be,
develops.

xi

Xi INTRODUCTION

The flesh of an apple is different when fully ripe or when it has been stored
for any time; each of those hereafter described has been tasted at its best
period. The term firm may be taken to apply to those fruits which, when
cooked, become more or less jelly-like or semi-transparent, as, for instance, the
well-known cooking apple, Wellington. The word mealy refers to those which
cook into a creamy pulp. Such apples do not “fall” in cooking, and are
excellent for dumplings, as eg. Blenheim Orange and Waltham Abbey
Seedling. The term crystalline refers to those which have flesh of a snow-
like appearance ; these, as a rule, are good cookers. The term dry, with refer-
ence to the flesh, indicates fruits which are neither juicy nor firm, but frequently
make good baking apples, as Winter Queening. ;

To estimate flavour, which is entirely a matter of taste and opinion, is
difficult, but the terms used will probably be useful as a guide. We may give
the following examples :—Rich (Egremont Russet), sugary or sweet (King
of the Pippins), spicy (D’Arcy Spice), aromatic (Ross Nonpareil), dry (Winter
Queening).

It is premised that all good gardens have proper fruit rooms in which to
conserve their fruit ; one constructed after the manner of such an inexpensive
and effectual one as that detailed elsewhere is possible to all. It must be evi-
dent that it is a great advantage to be able to keep fruit for ten months
in perfect condition. A melting pear in March, a cooking apple for April
and May use, and a choice dessert fruit for the same periods are well worth
striving for, to say nothing of storage in large quantities, when excellent prices
may be obtained for the same fruits that during a glut on the markets in the
picking season would be sold for next to nothing. We state what is con-
sidered to be the best period for use of each fruit. In light, warm soils this
period may be earlier, while fruit from cold land may be somewhat later. In
this connection we may remark that perfectly ripe and matured fruit keeps
better than when it is gathered before its development is complete, and no very
late fruits can be perfect unless left on the trees well into November.

Wherever the term “garden tree”’ is used, it refers to trees on the Para-
dise stock, Where it is stated “not suitable for cordons,” it is because the
growth is too robust, causing wide gaps between the fruiting spurs; “not
suitable for standards” indicates a “weeping” habit of growth, which is un-
suitable for trees grown in orchards where cattle or sheep are allowed. Yet in
the hands of a skilful gardener a robust tree may be made to form a cordon,
or the weeping tree may be valuable in a plantation on cultivated land. By
“orchard tree” is meant a standard on the Crab or Free stock, permanently
planted on grass land; the word “ Paradise” refers to trees for planting in
gardens, or market trees on cultivated ground.

The form of the fruits can be seen from the sections given ; where they
vary, this will be mentioned in the descriptions, ;

Where fruits have been accorded recognition by the Royal Horticultural
Society they are classed F.C.C. (first-class certificate) or A.M. (award of
merit). Either of these is a stamp of good quality. The year in which the
award was granted is given.

INTRODUCTION xiii

Great difficulty has been experienced in limiting the number of apples to
even one hundred varieties, and other fruits in proportion ; even then several
really useful fruits had to be omitted. As it is intended that the information
given in this work shall apply to all parts of Great Britain, the lists must of
necessity be comprehensive. No really good old variety is omitted, or any new
one which bids fair to become a standard variety. Several other apples worthy
of culture, in addition to the list of one hundred, are given, but we have been
anxious not to bewilder the amateur or small grower. Short lists for special
purposes are given for his guidance.

Any peculiarity in growth, flower, or foliage is mentioned ; so where no
remarks are made, the tree or fruits referred to may be taken as normal.

GRASS PATHS AND SPRING FLOWERS IN THE ORCHARD.

THE FRUIT GARDEN

CHAPTER I

THE APPLE

By GEORGE BUNYARD

Tue planting of orchard standard apple trees, which are best upon the Crab or
Free stock, is carried out as recommended in the chapter on Planting, When-
ever practicable it is best to plant orchard trees in arable cultivated land, but
corn crops must not be grown with them. ‘The trees should not be pruned
the first year of planting, and subsequent pruning should be carried out with
the view of making the branches assume a bowl or cup shape. This is
attained by always cutting the shoots on the outside of the tree to a bud
pointing outwards, and keeping the inner shoots pruned back to four eyes;
after about five years’ growth little pruning will be needed, except just
sufficient to regulate the branches, and to remove useless central shoots or boughs
which cross each other. It is often necessary to plant orchard fruit trees in
grass, and in that case care must be taken to leave a circle of 3 feet diameter
around the base of each tree free from grass and weeds, and the space must
be regularly hoed to prevent the soil cracking. In all cases the trees must
be protected against the possibility of injury from cattle by the use of wire-
netting (1-inch mesh), by boughs tied round the tree, or by cradles sufficiently
high to keep off horses and cattle. These cradles are made either square or
triangular, the upright stakes should be from 14 to 2 feet apart at the base,
and from 3 to 3} feet apart at the top, with cross staves about 1 foot apart.
If during the course of a few years the trees have made less than 1 foot of
growth annually, they should be manured, but a hard, firm, well-ripened
growth is preferable to strong sappy shoots which may not be well ripened
before the winter, and which may suffer from the effects of frost ; for the
same reason the boughs should be well thinned out, and the centres of the trees
kept open to let in sun and air. In this way the fruit will be of good size
and colour, and of the best quality as well.

SumMER Pruninc is better left until early August, as starting sooner only
induces a secondary growth, which has to be removed; whereas, when per-

A

THE FRUIT GARDEN

THE APPLE 3

formed at the time named, the buds below swell and lay the foundation of
fruit spurs. The winter pruning may be done in open weather from October
to March. With garden trees the same method of planting should be observed,
but as ordinary garden soil is quite rich enough for fruit trees, they need no
fresh manure. Most garden trees of the apple are upon the Paradise stock ;
therefore, when planted, the junction of the stock and scion should be below
the soil.

Trees on the Paradise stock may be pruned the first year after planting,
and preferably in February. Either pyramid or bush trees may be formed.
The leading shoots of cordon trees should not be shortened unless they fail to
make spurs, and the lateral shoots of espalier trees should not be pruned back
for a season, as such a proceeding might check the regular formation of the
lateral tiers of branches ; but after a year’s growth the leaders may be regulated,
taking care to cut the lower branches a foot longer than the upper ones, as the
sap naturally rises. If the upper branches are allowed to extend beyond the
lower ones the latter may die back. Any long or ill-placed shoots on the
laterals may be shortened in August to within four buds or “eyes” of their
bases. In no cases should trees of any form be allowed to carry much
fruit the first year. As soon as garden trees produce an abundance of gross
wood and very little fruit, they require to be root-pruned. Instructions for
this are given elsewhere. When once the trees have formed fruit spurs and
produce fruit regularly, this operation need not be repeated, and, as a precaution,
only a portion of the trees should be root-pruned at once, for, if the following
spring should be dry, the crop may be entirely lost. The largest trees must be
operated upon with judgment, but after two root prunings they generally bear
satisfactorily. Old fruitless trees that have been closely pruned become fruitful
when the boughs are well thinned and the trees allowed to extend themselves
with, of course, slight regulation.

PRUNING THE APPLE (SUMMER)

CHARACTERISTIC GROWTHS.—A. Short stubby growth, the leaves disposed almost in a circle, with
a blossom bud in the centre; this is a fruitful spur, and must zo¢ be pruned. 8B. Growth intermediate
between a spur and a wood shoot, not extending beyond a few inches; the leaves-are closely set, with
somewhat prominent buds in the axils, and terminated by a conspicuous bud, often a blossom bud; this
is a short stubby shoot, and must be pruned neither in summer nor winter. Cc. Short stubby growth,
but not with leaves disposed in a circle, and the terminal bud pointed, not bold; this is an imperfected
spur, and must not be shortened, as it will (most likely) produce some blossom buds the following
summer, D. A side shoot more than five points long, and requiring either pinching in summer or
shortening in winter, or both; (a) point of stopping at third good leaf (4); not counting small basal
jJeaves (c). ©, Branch with these characteristic growths ; (¢) basal bud not started into growth, there-
fore termed /azenz, and available for cutting down to (in case of necessity) to originate a new branch ;
{e) short stubby growths—incipient spurs; (/) short shoot suitable for retaining to form spurs; (g) a
spur with blossom bud at apex, on which fruit is borne the following summer ; na growth intermediate
between a spur and a growing shoot, terminated by a fruit bud; common in some varieties of apple,
and not to be shortened for obvious reasons; (2) side shoots that must be either pinched in summer or
shortened in winter, or both, unless required for filling vacant space, or furnishing the tree with
branches which must be at least one foot apart; (7) point of pinching; (#) continuation of branch
growth, trained intact in case of wall or espalier tree, or pinched at (/) if a bush or pyramid tree.

PINCHING OF SIDE SHOOTS.—F. Shoot at second stopping ; (7) point of first pinching (see shoot D.);
(z) laterals stopped to one leaf. G. Shoot after second pinching; (0) sub-laterals to be stopped, if
necessary to one leaf, as shown, but not after early part of September; (#) buds plump. The object
of stopping is to make the buds develop without starting into growth.

THE FRUIT GARDEN

Vs

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PRUNING THE APPLE (WINTER)

THE APPLE Z

Tue ParapiseE Srock.—Much misconception has arisen with regard to this
particular stock for grafting, because in the earlier days of its adoption the
French variety was in general use. This is a starving stock, and the apple
trees grafted upon it are not long-lived. The Nonsuch, Broad-Leaved, Doucin
or Dutch, and the true English varieties of the Paradise stock, however, are now
generally used, and are found to be quite satisfactory. Apple trees upon these
stocks have a vigour equal to those upon the Crab or Free stock, but at the same
time they have the capacity of forming fruit-producing spurs while the trees are
quite young ; heavy crops are often taken from trees only two years old, and
it is utter nonsense to talk of their giving up or dying out after a few years.
‘There are throughout the country apple trees upon the Paradise stock fifty years
old in perfect health and vigour, and it must have been ignorance of their many
virtues that caused them to be condemned by the Herefordshire Association so
recently as 1900. Bush apple trees upon the above stocks not only produce
finer and cleaner fruit, but they bear fruit some five years before trees on the
Crab stock, and moreover, often produce freely when the Crab trees are bare.
They may be depended upon to keep in good bearing for at least fifty years,
provided they are planted so that the junction of scion and stock is below the
soil ; eventually they give double the return that can be obtained from orchard
trees. Especially is this the case in a good season; then the fruit from trees
on the Paradise stock sells freely, because it is handsome, while orchard fruit
is small and comparatively unsaleable.

PRUNING THE APPLE (WINTER)

CHARACTERISTIC LEAFLESS GROWTHS.—H. Fruitful spur; (g) blossom bud from which fruit is
produced ; (7) side buds forming future spurs for bearing. 1. Short shoot terminated by a fruit bud; (s)
blossom bud ; (¢) wood buds likely to form spurs in following summer; (z) point of pruning if desired
to originate a growing shoot for furnishing the tree; this, of course, prevents bearing for some time.
j. An extension growth terminated by a blossom bud; (v) fruit bud, a peculiar mode of bearing in some
varieties. K. An incipient spur; (w) terminal bud, probably developing in following summer into a
blossom bud ; (x) side buds usually forming spurs. L. Short stubby shoot with wood buds; (y) buds
usually developing spurs in following summer; (z) basal buds commonly remaining dormant, called
latent, M. Side shoot from a branch not pinched in summer; (a) point of winter pruning, the object
being to keep growths near branches, and induce spur formation. N. Branch with characteristic growths
(page 2 E, Leafless); (4) basal bud; (c) incipient spurs; (d) perfected spur with blossom bud at apex;
(2) short stubby shoot usually forming spurs in following summer ; (/) short shoot intermediate between
a spur and growth—terminated by a fruit bud; (g) side shoots shortened to two buds; (%) continuation
of branch growth shortened to point desired for originating growths to furnish tree with branches for
bearing or filling vacant spaces; (z) continuation shoot; (/) side shoots; if not so desired growth left
intact. o. A pinched side shoot, winter pruned (page 2 G, Leafless); (4) bud started, and not desirable
as a pruning bud; (Z) buds plump, and likely to form spurs in following season ; (wz) basal bud, not
usually starting into growth the next spring, but remaining Ja¢ex¢. p. Branch in very desirable state
(N 4, not shortened) ; (7) a shortened side shoot having in previous year (Ng) formed spurs; (0) spurs ;
() continuation shoot ; r=one year, 2=two year, and 3=three years’ old wood. Q. Three years’ old
wood (N as far as g); (7) basal bud; (v) spurs having formed blossom buds ; (s) spur that fruited
previous summer and side buds developed into incipient spurs; (¢) short shoot having formed two
blossom buds and three incipient spurs; (~) shoot intermediate between a spur and a shoot which
has fruited and developed two spurs with blossom bud and three incipient spurs; (v) points of
shortening when desired to keep spurs near branch—this is best done after the fruit is gathered; (zw)
shortened side shoots having formed spurs. R. Extremity of branch with fruit buds at points; (x)
blossom buds; (y) growth with wood buds usually developing into spurs the following season; (z) two
years’ old wood ; this isa common mode of bearing with some varieties, and with most when the trees
are fully grown,

6 THE FRUIT GARDEN

THE APPLE AS A CORDON ON WALLS

It is very rarely that apple trees are promoted to the dignity of a position
on a wall, but there are occasions which justify this method of culture,
and when such favour is shown, the apples prove to be larger, of better quality
and flavour, and much improved in colour and appearance. In many Scottish,
North, and North Midland counties, conditions are so unfavourable to the
culture of our best dessert apples that if these are to be had in anything like
good condition, either for dessert or for exhibition, a wall must be had recourse
to; even those more favoured by climatic conditions who wish to grow the
apple to the highest excellence out of doors, should plant a few cordon trees
on their walls. There are many vacant spaces between existing trees that
would hold a cordon or two without inconvenience, but where it can
be given, a west aspect, no doubt, would be best. The finest apples I have
ever seen were grown on the slated roof of a shed in a garden in North Wales,
Bodnant, near Conway. ‘These were tall standards planted against the wall
of the shed, and the trees were trained over the roof. This is a plan worth
following, plenty of such roofs exist in gardens, and at present give no return
whatever.

The following dessert varieties would well repay the grower for any space
on a wall devoted to them :—

Beauty of Bath, Irish Peach, Kerry Pippin, Lady Sudeley, Worcester Pearmain,
James Grieve, Cox’s Orange Pippin, Ribston Pippin, Cox’s Pomona, Mother, Washing-
ton, Allington Pippin, Gascoigne’s Scarlet, Scarlet Nonpareil, King of Tompkin’s County,
Rosemary Russet, Fearn’s Pippin, Court Pendu Plat (all the above are also suitable for
exhibition) ; King of the Pippins, Brownlee’s Russet, Adam’s Pearmain, Allen’s Ever-
lasting, Mabbott’s Pearmain, Blenheim Orange, Sturmer Pippin.

The following varieties, although not strictly dessert, are indispensable for
exhibition :—

Red Astrachan, Emperor Alexander, Peasgood’s Nonsuch, White Transparent,
Duchess of Oldenburg, The Queen, Golden Noble, Bismarck, Beauty of Kent, William’s
Favourite, Newton Wonder, Calville Blanche.:

The last-named beautiful and delicious apple succeeds best when grown in
pots under glass, but may be planted against a warm wall with fair prospect
of success.

Tue Hunprep Best Aprpies

ADAM’S PEARMAIN, T.—Séz, slightly rough and dry ; ground colour, bright yellow
with coppery red, striped deeper red, spotted and patched with russet ; jlesh, tender,
greenish white ; s/a/k, set in starry russet basin; flavour, sweet and rich, first-class ;
season, November to January ; growth, compact, moderate. A pretty, high-coloured
dessert variety, worthy of a place in a select collection. It is often more pointed than the
figure. Of average fertility.

ALFRISTON, K.—Szm, smooth; colour, pale greenish yellow netted with thin
russet, flecks of green under the skin ; flesh, tender, juicy ; favour, sweet and pleasant ;

RIBSTON PIPPIN APPLE TREE AT RIBSTON PARK, YORKSHIRE.
(A sucker from the original tree.)

(Beauty of Kent.)

DWARF APPLE TREES,

THE APPLE 7

season, January to March; growth, sturdy and compact, large drooping foliage. Forms
a fine orchard tree and a fertile pyramid on the Paradise stock ; keeps sound for a long
time ; does well on gravelly soil. Fruits must be left on the tree well into November or
they shrivel. Of average fertility.

ALLEN’S EVERLASTING, T., F.C.C. 1901.—Skin, rough; ground colour, greenish
yellow covered with thin brown russet, coppery red on sunny side ; flesh, tender, yellowish
tinged with green; flavour, brisk, aromatic, first-class ; season, April to May; growth,
stout, upright, very full of spurs. Forms neat trees on the Paradise stock, and is a useful
garden variety in any form. Fruit should be left on the trees as late as November to be
perfect. A regular bearer.

ALLINGTON Pippin (South Lincolnshire Pippin), T., F.C.C. 1894.—Sézm, slightly
rough ; ground colour, yellow to primrose with scarlet flush, striped with deeper scarlet
with slight russet and russet spots ; flesh, firm, very pale primrose ; favour, rich, excel-
lent, resembling Golden Reinette ; season, November to February ; grow/7h, free, twiggy,
and full of fruit-spurs. Makes a neat orchard standard, and is most desirable on the
Paradise stock in any form. It bears so freely that it will require thinning, but not too
much or the fruits become too large for dessert. It is one of the most beautiful fruits
grown, and although only introduced in 1896 has already become popular. It is in
season longer than Cox’s Orange Pippin, and may be considered as one of the finest
sorts sent out. Trees bear when one year old. The fruit is sometimes swollen near
the stalk, and often conical.

ANNIE ELIZABETH, T. or K.,F.C.C. 1866.—S£22, smooth, shining; ground colour, bright
yellow suffused with salmon red and striped with deeper red, faint russet round the eye ;
flesh, very firm, crisp, and juicy, yellowish white ; s/a/, very short, frequently knobby ;
Hlavour, sweet and aromatic ; season, March-April ; growth, sturdy, upright, bold ; large
foliage. Succeeds near the sea, and the fruit does not fall in windy weather. Late in the
season it is fit for dessert. ertilzty moderate.

BAUMANN’S RED WINTER REINETTE, T., F.C.C. 1878.—S£2, rough; ground
colour, bright orange almost entirely covered with rich bronzy red ; flesh, white, half
tender ; s¢a/z, set in thin russet basin ; flavour, sweet ; season, December to January ;
growth, sturdy, irregular, full of spurs. Forms a neat orchard tree, and bears regularly
and profusely, so much so as to pay for liberal thinning of the fruits. Suitable for all
forms of garden trees on the Paradise stock. The fruits are a beautiful colour, and
keep late. One of the very best for market culture on bush trees ; being so firm, it
reaches market in good condition. The R.H.S. certificate was granted to it as a market
fruit.

BEAUTY OF BATH, T., F.C.C. 1887.—S£zz, rough, sometimes russety in places ;
ground colour, pale yellow with bright crimson cheek and white spots, very pretty; /sh,
melting, greenish white; favour, pleasantly acid; season, middle to end of July,
August ; grow?¢h, compact, full of spurs. Forms a neat orchard tree, and succeeds on
Paradise stock, and is amenable to any form of training. Ripens with Gladstone, and is
one of the earliest July fruits, and thus valuable for dessert purposes. It pays for liberal
treatment, and its colour is so bright that it fetches the best prices in the market.

BEAUTY OF KENT (Countess of Warwick, Seward of Worcester), K. or T., A.M.
1901 ; introduced about 1800.—S#7, smooth and dry ; ground colour, greenish yellow
covered with brownish red, striped with bright red ; fesz, tender, and nearly white ;
stalk, set in silvery russet basin ; flavour, sweet and slightly aromatic ; season, November
to January ; growth, vigorous and spreading, apt to droop; foliage, large and curled. A
variety which is superb on warm soils under garden culture on the Paradise stock, but
loses quality in cold or uncongenial soils. Fertz/ty moderate.

BELLE PONTOISE, T. or K., F.C.C. 1902.—Skim, smooth and greasy; ground
colour, greenish yellow shaded with bronzy crimson, striped and flecked with darker
crimson ; flesh, tender, very white, juicy ; s/a/k, set in russet basin 1} inches wide ;
flavour, pleasantly sub-acid ; season, December to April; growth, vigorous; foliage
very large. A grand variety for all purposes, sometimes very large, and always hand-
some and regular in outline. Fer¢z/ity excellent.

*

8 THE FRUIT GARDEN

BISMARCK (Prince Bismarck), K., F.C.C, 1887.—S#iz, smooth, slightly greasy ;
ground colour, pale yellow, carmine red striped with deeper red, sometimes brilliant
crimson ; fesh, crisp, pale primrose, juicy ; s¢a/k, set in starry russet basin ; flavour,
pleasantly sub-acid; season, October to January ; grow?¢h, rather spreading, leaves very
downy. A valuable fruit, suitable for all methods of culture, and at the end of the
season the smaller examples are fit for dessert; it can be sold for market from the
trees. Fertility remarkable ; never fails to crop freely ; requires thinning to get perfect
fruit.

BLENHEIM ORANGE (Woodstock Pippin), K., T.—S4:7, rough and uneven ; ground
colour, golden yellow with russet in patches and dots, frequently striped and flushed
with brownish red ; flesh, tender, yellowish white, mealy; s¢a/&, set in starry russet
basin ; flavour, rich and full; season, November to February; growth, vigorous,
spreading ; foliage broad and deep green. The best fruit for general use. The large
examples, which take a more conical form, are splendid for dumplings and tarts, while
the smaller are esteemed for dessert. Best as a standard, but amenable to garden
culture when duly root-pruned, though the branches should not be too closely cut.
Fertility abundant, though not before the tree has gained size and age.

BRADDICK’S NONPAREIL, T.—Sézm, slightly rough; ground colour, deep yellow
with ring of russet round the eye, patches of russet set over the fruit and round the
stalk ; flesh, white with green specks; favour, sweet and aromatic ; seasov, October to
December ; growth, compact, full of spurs. One of the very best for garden culture.
Can always be recognised by the russet ring round the eye. Sometimes the fruit is
flatter than shown in the figure. Forms pretty fruitful cordons. Fertility good.

BRAMLEY’S SEEDLING, K., F.C.C. 1883.—S42, smooth, slightly greasy ; ground
colour, dull yellow with faint red streaks shading to brownish red; flesh, firm, juicy,
white with greenish spots and streaks ; sta/k, frequently terminated by a knob ; flavour,
sub-acid ; season, December to April; growth, sturdy, robust, spreading. A very valu-
able fruit for orchard and market culture. Its growth is very free, and consequently
orchard trees do not bear fruit until they are about ten years old. The branches require
carefully regulating and pruning, but when once fruit-spurs are formed the tree bears
constantly. The fruit is of good size and keeps soundly, generally irregular, but often
flatter than shown in the figure. The foliage is very large, flat, and rounded. It forms
fertile bushes on the Paradise stock, but its vigorous growth does not lend itself to
severe pruning or Set training.

BROWNLEE’S RusSET, T.—S#in, rough ; ground colour, pale green suffused with
russet all over, faintly brown on russet side ; flesh, crisp, cream-coloured ; flavour, very
rich ; season, November to January ; grow/h, upright, compact and very full of foliage.
This fruit is in its season one of the best dessert sorts for garden culture. Fertzlity
moderate but regular. The fruit should not be gathered before it is ripe, or it
shrivels, loses its fine flavour, and becomes tough. This variety is worth culture for its
beautiful blossom alone. In the spring it is most striking, the flowers being highly
coloured.

CALVILLE BLANCHE (White Calville), K.—Szzn, dry ; colour, greenish yellow with
a few black spots and specks ; flesh, tender and melting, primrose colour ; favour, sweet
and slightly aromatic ; season, December to April; growth, moderate, full of spurs.
This French fruit is greatly esteemed by the cooks, and is, when grown on a wall or
warm situation, suitable for dessert ; it is, however, a very tender apple, and cannot
be recommended for general culture.

CALVILLE MALINGRE, K., A.M. 1902.—Skiz, slightly rough and dry’; ground
colour, pale orange frequently coppery crimson, striped with deep crimson ; flesh, firm,
greenish white with yellowish green markings ; flavour, sub-acid ; season, April, May ;
growth, upright, very compact, and full of fruit-spurs. A valuable apple for garden
culture, making finely formed cordons and pyramids and a pretty espalier. Fruit must
be left on the tree till November. Fertz/7ty first-class.

CALVILLE ROUGE PRECOCE (Summer Calville), T.—S#22, rough ; ground colour,
bright crimson marked with silvery and white russet dots; /esh, tender, white

THE APPLE g

with rosy markings ; favour, spicy and unusually aromatic ; season, October to Dec-
ember ; growth, neat and compact, rather upright. A beautiful fruit for decoration, and
should be grown in every garden on the Paradise stock.

CALVILLE ROUGE D’HIVER (Red Calville), K., A.M.—S#zm, smooth ; ground colour,
olive green flushed with deep blood red and crimson ; flesh, very firm and pale green;
season, April to May; growth, twiggy, spreading. A grand sort for very late use,
worthy of planting against a west wall. When fully developed fit for dessert at its late
season. A good cooker also. The fruits must be left on the tree well into November.
Fertility remarkable, fruit requires thinning.

CARDINAL (Peter the Great), T., K., A.M. 1896.—Séin, dry and velvety; ground
colour, pale primrose with exquisite marblings of red and rose like a peach|; /lesh, crisp,
very white and crystalline ; favour, very sweet and pleasant; season, August to Sep-
tember ; grow¢h, upright, compact and full of spurs, never makes a large tree ; worthy of
culture in gardens for its beauty, bears abundantly ; one of the most beautiful apples,
carrying a bloom like a plum.

CELLINI PIPPIN (Selina), K.—S£zz, smooth and greasy ; ground colour, pale green,
covered with silvery russet with red and crimson flecks and stripes ; fZesh, very tender
and white; sfa/k, set in a green starry basin; flavour, pleasantly acid; season,
August to October; growth, free and rather upright. One of the best for a cottage
or villa garden; seldom fails to bear. Apt to canker in cold soils on the Crab,
but trees worked on the Paradise stock are more healthy. Fertdity abundant and
constant.

CHELMSFORD WONDER, K., F.C.C. 1891.—Siz, smooth, slightly greasy ; ground
colour, pale lemon, pale bronze, with flecks of red ; flesh, very firm, juicy, pale primrose
colour ; flavour, pleasantly sub-acid ; season, December to February ; grow?¢h, upright,
compact. Valuable for orchard culture, for instance, where Wellington cankers. Keeps
firm to the last, a valuable sort for garden trees on the Paradise stock. erizity
excellent.

CHRISTMAS PEARMAIN, T.—Sézm, rough and dry; ground colour, bright orange,
marked with silvery specks and russet patches, dull crimson on sunny side, pale fruits
are faintly striped only ; fesh, crisp, pale primrose, green markings; sfa/k, set in a
green slightly russet basin ; flavour, rich and pleasantly sub-acid ; season, November
to December ; growth, compact, full of spurs. A great bearer, forms a neat orchard
tree. Introduced for market sale, but it has proved suitable for dessert when grown
as a garden tree on the Paradise stock. Some of the fruits are knobby at the stalk and
egg-shaped. It bears in clusters, and requires thinning freely.

CLAYGATE PEARMAIN, T., A.M. 1901.—Skin, rough ; ground colour, greenish yellow,
covered with patches of silvery cinnamon, russet, and russet dots, often with a bronzy
cheek ; flesh, half-tender, creamy, with green markings ; s¢a/z, set in thin russet basin ;
flavour, very rich, first-class ; season, January to March; growth, compact, spreading,
twiggy. Leaves downy underneath. KResembles Ribston Pippin, and is one of the
very best. Most suitable for garden culture inany form. F/er¢iity excellent and regular.
The fruits are often much higher on one side, and always uneven and irregular.

CocKLE’s PIPPIN (Nutmeg), T.—Séz, usually smooth; ground colour, orange
yellow, netted and spotted with thin cinnamon russet ; flesh, crisp, pale primrose;
flavour, rich, sweet, and piquant; season, November to February; growth, compact
and twiggy. In ordinary seasons the fruit is of a russet colour, but in some years it
is often entirely green. One of the best for garden culture in any form on the
Paradise stock, forms a small orchard standard. Fruit requires thinning as it bears
in clusters of three and more. The fruit is often more pointed and smaller than in the
figure.

: CORNISH GILLIFLOWER (Gilliflower), T.—S#z7, rough and dry ; ground colour, pale
orange, and bronzy red, striped with darker red ; flesh, tough, cream-coloured ; flavour,
sweet, rich, and aromatic ; season, October to January ; growth, pendulous and slender,
fruit produced at ends of branches. Its high flavour entitles it to a place in good
gardens, where it is best as a standard or half-standard, and if somewhat hard pruned

10 THE FRUIT GARDEN

it becomes very fertile, but left alone it is a shy bearer. The fruit is so sweet that it
requires to be protected from birds as it approaches ripeness. Fofage small. The fruit
is often swollen at the stalk, and almost egg-shaped.

Cox’s ORANGE PIPPIN, T.; introduced 1854.—.S#iz, shightly rough ; ground colour,
rich orange, bronzy red, sometimes scarlet on the sunny side; /esh, tender, cream-
coloured; s¢a/k, set in russet basin; flavour, rich, sweet and pleasant; season,
November to April; gvowdh, twiggy, but free, forms spurs readily. Undoubtedly the.
very best dessert apple. How long it will keep depends largely upon the fruit room ;
its season may be lengthened by gathering at several pickings, and by placing trees in
various aspects; in Scotland it requires a wall. Bearing freely, there 1s no better sort
than this for market culture as a bush on Paradise stock; in congenial (not cold)
soils it forms a neat orchard tree. The figure is made from a perfect specimen, but
smaller fruits are more globular. One characteristic of this fruit is that even in badly
grown examples, the white spots show under the skin. .

Cox’s Pomona (Pomona), K., T.—S#z#, smooth and greasy ; ground colour, bright
yellow covered with carmine red, streaked with deeper red ; jesh, very tender, white
and crystalline ; s¢aZ#, set in yellow basin ; favour, sweet and pleasant ; season, October
and November ; growth, compact. When fully ripened, excellent for dessert. The
branches require to be well thinned, as also does the fruit. Succeeds well in cool soils.
Fertility first-class and constant. The blossom is snow white, very distinct.

D’Arcy Spice (Spring Ribston, Essex Spice, Baddow Pippin), T., A.M.—S#zm,
slightly rough ; ground colour, pea green, netted, and spotted with thin russet ; flesh,
melting, white with green markings ; flavour, highly aromatic and pleasant ; season,
February to May ; gvow?h, very slow. In its native County of Essex there are large
orchards of this tree, but it would be best to graft on established trees to get an early
return, It forms sturdy bushes or pyramids on the Paradise stock, and should be grown
in all gardens for a late supply ; its appearance condemns it as a market sort.

DEVONSHIRE QUARRENDEN (Seek no Farther, Striped Quarrenden, Waterloo
Pippin, Sack Apple, Quarantine [of market]), T.—S£zz, smooth and dry, but greasy
when stored ; ground colour, pale yellow, but almost entirely covered with rich blood
red; flesh, crisp, very white, sometimes rosy under the skin; flavour, brisk and
piquant when fresh, juicy; season, August to September ; growth, moderate. Forms
a neat orchard standard, and garden trees on the Paradise stock produce splendid fruit.
Valuable for the table, and has a high value in the market, where it is known as
“ Quarantine.” Succeeds in all forms.

DUCHESS OF OLDENBURG (Borovitsky, Russian, Summer Peach), K., T.—S£zm,
smooth and dry; ground colour, pale primrose, streaked and striped with bright
crimson, very handsome ; /éesh, crisp, brisk, and crystalline ; favour, briskly acid, but
not too much so for most palates; season, August to September; gvow/¢h, upright,
vigorous, but not so twiggy as many. A very fine apple for home use. Carries a fine
bloom like a peach, is very hardy, succeeds in cold soils, and never fails to bear. It
sells fairly well in the market because of its beauty, but it is apt to bruise on long
journeys. The shoots of this variety are very deep brown.

DUKE OF DEVONSHIRE, T.—S7z, smooth; ground colour, greenish yellow, with
black dots and patches of russet, especially round the eye and stalk ; flesh, tender, white
with green markings ; favour, sweet and aromatic; season, March to May; growth,
rather spreading and free. Ranks with the best. Makes a good standard, is suitable
for garden culture. The fruit retains its flavour to the last, must not be gathered
early. ertility satisfactory and regular on established trees.

ECKLINVILLE SEEDLING, K.—Séz, smooth, shining, greasy after storing ; ground
colour, greenish primrose with black dots, rarely with a crimson flush ; #esk, melting,
white, and crystalline ; favour, pleasantly acid ; season, September to October ; grow/zh,
vigorous, sturdy, and stout, forming a flat-headed orchard standard. This is one of the
best early kitchen apples, and seldom fails to bear a heavy crop. The tree is full of fruit
spurs, and grand in all forms. It is a first-class variety to graft the weaker dessert
apples upon.

CORDON APPLE TREES IN NURSERY ROWS.

CORDON APPLE TREES IN ad HEREFORDSHIRE NURSERY.

THE APPLE Il

EGREMONT RUSSET, T.—Shin, rough; ground colour, brownish orange entirely
covered with cinnamon russet; flesh, soft and leathery ; flavour, very rich and full;
season, October to November ; growth, upright, compact, and full of spurs. One of the
richest late autumnal fruits, of a pretty colour, for dessert. Best on the Paradise stock.
fertility excellent.

EMPEROR ALEXANDER (Alexander, Grand Duc de Constantine), K., T.—S%m,
smooth, slightly greasy ; ¢vound colour, primrose or pale rose, marked with crimson
stripes ; flesh, very tender, white; sta/z, set in greenish yellow basin ; favour, sweet
and vinous ; season, October and November; growth, vigorous and spreading. When
fresh the fruit is very good for table use, and cooks well also. One of the most beautiful
fruits grown, often very large. ertd/ity excellent.

FEARN’S PIPPIN (Clifton Nonesuch), T.—S#z, rough and dry; ground colour,
primrose flushed with coppery red, and marked with white specks; /les/, fairly tender,
white, with yellowish green marks; s¢a/k, set in russet basin; flavour, sweet and
pleasant; season, February to April; growzh, upright and compact, forms a neat
standard. A first-class garden variety on the Paradise stock. Ferézlity excellent.

GASCOIGNE’S SCARLET SEEDLING (Glory of England), K., T., F.C.C. 1887.—Skzm,
smooth ; ground colour, primrose, flushed and spotted with rich carmine red on sunny
side; flesh, firm, very white ; s¢a/z, set in a brown basin, frequently swollen; favour,
sweet and pleasant; season, November to January ; gvow?h, spreading, inclined to weep.
Perhaps the most beautiful apple grown, raised in Kent ; under orchard-house culture of
remarkable beauty. Very valuable as a market variety, requires root-pruning and
grafting on the Paradise stock. ferézity first-class, a regular bearer after it is
established.

GoLpEN NOBLE (Beauty of Wilts, Gold Cup of Tasmania, Lord Clyde, John
Peel), K., T.—S£zm, slightly rough and dry ; colour, rich yellow all over ; /vesh, crisp and
juicy, yellowish white; s¢a/z, always surrounded by russet ; favour, sweet and slightly
aromatic; season, November to January ; growth, spreading and weeping. Forms a
fine orchard tree. It requires careful management as a garden tree on the Paradise
stock, as it bears on the points of the shoots. Succeeds well in light gravelly soil.
This variety may be always distinguished by its long bare shoots, often 18 inches
without a spur. ertd/zty excellent and regular.

GOLDEN REINETTE (Reinette dorée), T.—S2z, smooth; ground colour, deep
yellow suffused with red on the sunny side ; /esh, pale yellow ; s¢a/k, set in a shallow
russet cavity; flavour, sweet, rich and pleasant; season, December and January ;
growth, compact, very full of spurs. A grand old dessert sort for garden culture. Not
unlike King of the Pippins. Fruit of even size. er¢z//ty excellent.

GOLDEN SPIRE, K.—SAin, smooth, slightly greasy; colour, bright canary yellow,
unshaded ; /lesh, crisp, juicy and tender, pale primrose ; favour, sweet and pleasant ;
season, October to December; growth, upright, moderate, very full of spurs, an
enormous bearer, and from its growth suitable for orchards. On the Paradise stock
it makes a perfect tree, and never fails to bear so heavily that thinning becomes a
necessity. Many who like an acid apple use it for dessert. The colour of the fruit
renders it easily saleable in the market, and the tree succeeds all over the country, being
hardy and free from canker. The fruits are often more pointed than the figure, and
smaller. The flowers of this variety are very beautiful, small, pink on the inside, and
shaded with carmine on the outside.

GRAVENSTEIN, K.T.—Sézm, slightly rough and greasy when stored ; ground colour,
bright yellow streaked with dull crimson, sometimes flushed with crimson ; fresh, very
crisp and juicy, almost transparent ; s¢a/k, sometimes swollen ; favour, pleasantly sub-acid ;
season, September from the trees, keeps to December when stored ; growth, spreading.
There are many old trees of this in the country ; the fruits are suitable for dessert as
picked from the tree, and are also excellent for jelly. The fruit is generally higher on
one side, and often not so regular as shown in the figure. The tree should not be
pruned heavily for garden use. It makes large thin branches, and is well suited for a
standard. Fertz/ity regular, but moderate.

ra THE FRUIT GARDEN

GRENADIER CODLIN, K., F.C.C. 1883.—S#z, smooth, seldom greasy ; colour, pale
greenish yellow shading to pale yellow ; féesh, soft, cooks well ; flavour, briskly acid ;
season, end of September and October ; gvowdh, free, compact; forms fine orchard
trees and most valuable bushes for garden or market purposes on the Paradise stock.
A splendid bearer, never fails to crop, considered the best of the Codlins. A good,
handsome fruit.

HAMBLING’S SEEDLING, K., F.C.C. 1893.—S#én, smooth and dry ; colour, creamy
yellow with faint tinge of brown, and russet round the eye ; fesh, tender, crisp and
juicy, pale primrose colour; s¢a/é, set in green basin ; favour, pleasantly sub-acid ;
season, December to March; growdh, very sturdy and free. One of the best late apples,
very heavy and firm ; it cooks well. The tree is not fertile till it gains size and age, and
should not be hard pruned as a garden tree. It forms a grand orchard tree. Fertility
excellent when established.

HEREFORD CRIMSON QUEENING (Crimson Quoining, Red Stubbard, Quoining),
T.—Shin, smooth ; ground colour, orange yellow, deep crimson on sunny side with
splashes of red ; flesh, tender and very white ; sta/k, enlarged at entry, set in red basin ;
flavour, aromatic and pleasant, loses flavour when stored; season, October and
November ; growth, irregular, full of spurs. Its bright colour renders it a useful market
apple, and its peculiar flavour is much liked by some; it must not be stored for long.
It forms a compact orchard tree and a pretty garden tree on the Paradise stock.
Fertility excellent.

HORMEAD PEARMAIN (Arundel Pearmain), K., T., A.M. 1900; introduced 1885.—
Skin, smooth ; colour, bright yellow, faintly spotted russet ; flesh, firm, white with green
stripes ; s¢a/k, set in russet basin ; favour, slightly acid ; season, December to May;
growth, compact and sturdy. A variety that seldom fails to bear. Tree is useful in any
form. The fruits keep quite firm very late. They are often more conical than the
figure, and of regular outline. /ertd/zty constant and abundant.

HUBBARD’S PEARMAIN (Russet Pearmain), T.—Sézz, smooth; ground colour,
greenish yellow suffused with faint crimson, marked with irregular russet patches and
dots ; flesh, tender, greenish white ; sfa/é, set in a green basin ; flavour, very rich and
full ; season, December to January ; growth, compact. A valuable sort for culture on
the Paradise stock in any form.

IRISH PEACH (Early Crofton), T.—Shin, rough, greasy if stored ; ground colour
greenish yellow striped and flushed with bronzy red, and dotted white; Zesh, soft,
melting, greenish; flavour, spicy and rich; season, early August; growth, pendent ;
bearing at the end of slender branches, therefore should be little pruned. It is best to
let this and all early apples fall by themselves upon a straw mulching. The fruits are
often flatter and more irregular than the figure.

JAMES GRIEVE, A.M. 1897.—Sézx, smooth, greasy ; ground colour, bright primrose
striped deeper red, with white spots and patches of russet; /lesi, very tender and
melting, and nearly white; s¢a/k, set in faintly russet basin; favour, sweet and
pleasant ; season, September and October ; grow¢h, moderate and rather upright. An
introduction from Scotland of great value, it may be described as an early Cox’s
Orange Pippin. The tree is very healthy and succeeds in the north, forming a valuable
addition to our early autumn varieties. Best asa garden tree on the Paradise stock.
Fertility excellent. ;

KERRY PIPPIN, T.—S£7”, smooth; ground colour, dull yellow marked with brownish
red, striped and spotted with deeper red ; /zesh, firm, dull and cream-coloured ; sta/f,
very frequently swollen ; favour, first-rate; season, September ; growth, compact and
twiggy. Forms a neat garden tree on the Paradise stock, and is a favourite with those
who like a crisp and sweet fruit. Not suitable for a standard, and too small for a
cordon. Fruit sometimes very nearly round, often knobby at the stalk.

KESWICK CODLIN, K.—Sézz, rough and greasy when stored ; colour, pale greenish
yellow ; flesh, melting, white ; flavour, briskly acid; season, August and September ;
growth, compact and much branched. A well-known old fruit, which is valuable for
cold soils where better fruits do not succeed ; requires thinning to perfect its heavy
crops.

TREES IN FLOWER.

DWARF APPLE

APPLE LANE’S PRINCE ALBERT AS A BUSH TREE.

THE APPLE 13

Kino’s ACRE PIpPin, T., A.M. 1897.—S#iz, rough; ground colour, brownish
orange splashed with silvery russet over brownish red cheek ; fesh, tender, greenish
yellow and juicy ; favour, brisk, aromatic with a tinge of acidity ; season, March to
April; growth, moderate and compact. A fine addition to late fruits. Suitable for
garden culture on the Paradise stock. /er¢z/zty good.

KING OF THE PIPPINS (Brayton Hall, Golden Winter Pearmain, Pike’s Pearmain,
Prince’s Pippin, Winter Pearmain), T.—Skz, smooth; ground colour, bright orange
marked with brownish red and crimson on sunny side; flesh, mealy and tender, pale
primrose; séa/k, set in greenish basin ; flavour, pleasantly sweet ; season, October to
January; growth, upright, compact, very full of spurs. A favourite market apple and a
great and constant bearer. Apt to canker on cold soils, though reliable on the Paradise
stock. Suitable forall sorts of training. There are a great many seedlings of this variety
in the country, and only the best forms should be cultivated. It is the custom in Kent
orchards to prune this sort heavily and feed liberally, which treatment it well repays
when the fruits are put on the October market.

KING OF TOMPKINS CouNTy (Tompkins), T., K., A.M. 1900.—Sé#zz, smooth and
shining ; gvound colour, deep yellow covered with carmine red on sunny side, striped
with deeper carmine ; /zesh, firm, creamy white ; s¢a/é, set in an orange basin ; flavour,
very rich ; season, November to April; growth, spreading ; foliage, dark green. One of
the best American sorts for culture in Britain. Fruit from trees on Paradise stock is
brilliantly coloured and first-class in flavour. May succeed as a standard in the best
soils and positions ; is worthy of a wall with a western aspect.

Lapy HENNIKER, T., K., F.C.C. 1873.— Sim, rough and harsh; ground colour, pale
orange, coppery red, striped with deeper shade; /esh, firm and mealy ; s¢a/f, thin, set in
russet basin; flavour, sweet, rich and vinous; season, December; growth, upright,
compact ; foliage, large, downy. A first-class fruit for home use. Makes a fine orchard
tree, and is one of the best sorts for Christmas dessert. Fertd/ty moderate.

LADY SUDELEY, T., F.C.C. 1884.—S£z, rough ; ground colour, pale orange striped
with deep red on coppery red ground, frequently bright crimson; flesh, very tender,
creamy-red under the skin ; favour, unusually vinous and aromatic, highly perfumed ;
season, August and September, must be eaten from the tree ; growth, compact, inclined
to weep. The finest autumnal apple for dessert. Succeeds in all forms, and on
Paradise stock is remarkable for its lovely fruits. These lose flavour when stored, as all
early apples do. The tree should be closely pruned for a few years, and then only
partially cut back, as it bears on the points of the shoots. Fer?z/zty first-class.

LANE’S PRINCE ALBERT (Prince Albert), K., F.C.C. 1881, introduced 1870.—Skin
smooth ; ground colour, primrose and green, rosy red on sunny side splashed with
deeper red ; flesh, crisp, greenish white ; s¢a/z, set in a greenish basin ; flavour, briskly
sub-acid ; season, November to April; g7ow¢h, moderate, covered with fruit-spurs. One
of the most valuable apples, retaining its freshness to the last. Bears very freely, and
being of pendent growth is valuable for grafting on old trees. It does not make a stout
standard, but as a plantation tree on the Paradise stock it bears enormously. The branches
should be thinned and kept open. It is grand as a cordon, or in fact in any garden form.

LorD BURGHLEY, T., F.C.C. 1865.—Szin, rough; ground colour, golden, flushed,
and slightly striped with deep bronzy red, covered with thin russet and whitish spots ;
flesh, firm and greenish ; s¢a/k, set in russet basin ; favour, sweet, rich, and aromatic ;
season, February and March; growth, compact. The fruit is of grand flavour, and
one of the best late sorts for garden use. On the Paradise stock it makes a pretty
cordon. Fertility excellent.

LorD DERBY (London Major), K.— S47, smooth ; colour, entirely bright yellow ;
flesh, tender, crystalline; s¢a/z, set in a greenish basin ; favour, sweet and pleasant; season,
November and December ; gvow¢h, upright, sturdy ; foliage, large and downy. One of the
most valuable market and garden fruits ; of excellent cooking quality, and when fully ripe
fair for dessert. Succeeds in all forms and makes a grand espalier and close, upright
standard. /ertziity remarkable, it never fails to beara fine crop.

LorD GROSVENOR, K.; introduced 1875.—S#7z2, harsh, greasy ; colour, bright

14 THE FRUIT GARDEN

canary yellow; /esh, melting and snow-white; favour, briskly acid; season, August
and September ; growth, sturdy and compact, upright, a wonderful bearer in any form.
Thin freely as it fruits in clusters ; even if the crops are reduced by two or three pickings
the remaining fruits will be very large. A market apple of first quality, and valuable for
all garden purposes. .

LORD SUFFIELD, K.—S#in, smooth, greasy; colour, very pale primrose; /éesh,
melting, snowy white; favour, pleasantly sub-acid; season, August and early Sep-
tember; growth, moderate. Apt to canker as an orchard tree; requires a warm, stony
soil; one of the finest kitchen apples on the Paradise stock. The flowers are immense
and of a beautiful pale pink colour.

MANNINGTON’S PEARMAIN, A.M. 1901.—S#in, rough; ground colour, pale green
marked with patches of russet, or brownish red marked with spots and striped deep
red; flesh, tender and melting, pale cream marked with green; s¢a/k, set in greenish
russet basin; favour, rich and sugary; season, November to February ; growth, compact
and twiggy. Forms a neat orchard standard, and as a garden tree on the Paradise
stock it adapts itself to all forms of training. Fertility good.

MarGIL, T.—Skin, slightly rough; ground colour, orange yellow, covered with
patches of russet, flushed crimson and striped deep crimson; /es/, fairly tender, greenish
white; s¢ta/k, frequently knobby ; favour, rich and spicy ; season, October and November ;
growth, compact, twiggy. A grand old fruit of small size, evidently one of the parents
of Cox’s Orange Pippin. Grand on Paradise stock for garden use in all forms, and
makes a very compact standard. Fer¢zlzty abundant and regular.

MERE DE MENAGE, K., T.—Séim, smooth ; ground colour, brownish orange almost
covered with deep bronzy red, striped with dark crimson ; flesh, tender, white with faint
green markings; s/a/k, set in brown smooth basin, often swollen; favour, sweet and
aromatic; season, December and January; growd¢h, free and spreading. Forms a noble
orchard tree, and bears freely when ten years old. Fruits from trees on the Paradise
stock are very large and handsome. Not suitable for a cordon or espalier, but best as a
free bush. Cooks and bakes well and has a fine flavour; slightly red-fleshed when
cooked. The fruit is often angular, and deeper than the figure. Feré/ity regular.

MOTHER APPLE, T.—Skzm, slightly rough; ground colour, bright yellow suffused
with red, marked with crimson on the sunny side ; flesh, tender, milk-white with green
markings ; s¢ta/k, often ending in a knob and set in a russet basin ; flavour, very rich ;
season, October; growth, compact ; fodzage, shining green. One of the richest flavoured
apples in its season; even in the north, where it does not colour so brightly, it is yet of
excellent flavour. Makes a close standard, and adapts itself to all forms of garden trees
on the Paradise stock. Fertzlity excellent. The fruit is often more oval than in the
figure.

Mr. GLADSTONE (Jackson’s Seedling), T., F.C.C. 1883.—S#2, slightly rough, greasy
when ripe; ground colour, greenish yellow, with dull red patches and marked with
broad streaks of deeper red; flesh, tender, melting, greenish white ; s¢a/z, often knobby ;
Jiavour, very brisk, spicy, and pleasant ; season, middle of July to end of August ; growth,
compact and twiggy. Forms a neat orchard tree, and adapts itself to all forms of garden
trees on the Paradise stock. The fruit figured is rather small; it often has a knobbed
stalk, and is pointed. Fertzlity excellent.

Mrs. PHILLIMORE, T., A.M. 1899.—S£zm, dry and harsh ; colour, primrose and russet,
and almost covered with dull red ; flesh, greenish white, tender ; s¢a/k, short ; favour,
very sweet and pleasant, perhaps the sweetest apple grown; season, November to
February ; growth, compact, upright, short-jointed, forming fine cordons and garden
trees on the Paradise stock. Very fertile, and quite an addition to winter dessert sorts.

NEWTON WONDER (Pearson’s Newton Wonder, Taylors Newton Wonder), K.,
F.C.C. 1887.—Séiz, smooth and dry; ground colour, brownish yellow with patches of
russet, frequently crimson with black dots ; flesh, firm, greenish white with green veins;
stalk, frequently swollen, set in a green basin ; flavour, pleasantly sub-acid ; season,
November to May ; grow?h, vigorous, spreading, with bold foliage. A most desirable
late sort ; forms grand orchard trees, spreading bushes or pyramids on the Paradise

THE APPLE 15

stock ; makes a good espalier, but is not suitable as a cordon. Worthy of extensive
culture. Quite pleasant to eat late in the season ; all the fruits are well formed and of
good size. They are often flatter than shown in the figure and without the knob.
This is a variety far more reliable than Wellington, and equally good when cooked.
Fertility first-class.

NORMAN’s PIPPIN (Pomme Grise), T., A.M. 1900.—S4in, rough and dry ; ground
colour, pale greenish yellow, flecked and spotted with russet, especially round the eye ;
flesh, crisp and white ; s¢alk, frequently knobby ; flavour, sweet, rich, and pleasantly
aromatic ; season, December to February; grow/h, free, rather upright. The origin
of this apple is obscure, but it was received as named, and is one of the best for garden
use on the Paradise stock. Makes pretty cordons. Fertility excellent.

NORTHERN GREENING (Cowarne Queening, Walmer Court, Winter Greening), K.—
Skin, smooth; ground colour, greenish yellow, in a warm season marked with stripes
and flushes of red ; flesh, crisp, white, and juicy ; s¢a/é, very short, frequently knobby ;
flavour, briskly acid ; season, February to April; grow7h, upright, full of spurs. A
valuable old late sort for cold soils and orchards; pays well for storing; a valuable
sauce apple; bears well every other year. The fruit is sometimes more oval than shown
in the figure. The New Northern Greening does not succeed well in the south.

OLD WINTER NONPAREIL, T.—S#zm, dry and harsh, shiny in places; ground colour,
russet green, almost entirely covered with thin silvery russet, pale copper cheek; /lesh
very brisk, richly flavoured, spicy; season, January to May; growth, wiry. Forms
a close standard and a neat pyramid or bush on the Paradise stock. One of the best
late sorts; fairly prolific; good for cordons.

PEASGOOD’S NONESUCH, K.T., F.C.C. 1872.—S4in, smooth; ground colour, pale
orange striped with crimson on a russety red ground; /esh, tender, greenish white;
stalk, set in a green cavity; favour, sweet and pleasant; season, October to December;
growth, spreading, foliage and flowers very large. The largest and most handsome
apple grown. It is apt to cast its fruits, for many are often maggoty. It cannot be
called a market apple, although good prices are made with selected examples tastefully
packed; but as a garden tree in any form, and especially upon a west wall, it is worthy
of culture for decorative purposes alone. A fruit will weigh sometimes 26 oz. Fer-
tility very moderate.

Potr’s SEEDLING, K.—Sé#m, smooth and very greasy; colour, bright yellow all
over; flesh, crisp, snowy, cooks well; favour, slightly acid; season, August and
September; growth, very upright and compact, forming good trees on the Paradise
stock, but is liable to canker in damp soils or if thickly planted. A fine apple for small
gardens. Its large flowers are very distinct in colour before they open, being of a deep
cerise.

REINETTE DU CANADA (Canadian Reinette), K.T., A.M. 1901.—Shim, rough;
ground colour, greenish yellow with patches and spots of russet all over; flesh, mealy,
tender, greenish primrose; s¢a/%, set in a russet basin; flavour, very rich; season,
December to March; growth, very upright and spreading. A very good garden fruit;
on cordons it attains a large size, and although apt to shrivel it retains its flavour.
Fertility fair.

RED JUNEATING (Early Red Margaret, Margaret), T.—S#zm, slightly rough, greasy
when stored; ground colour, ochre yellow suffused with dull red, sometimes crimson ;
Jiesh, tender, melting, pale greenish white; flavour, sweet and aromatic, but brisk;
season, end of August and September; gvow¢h, compact, very twiggy. Crops well
every other year, and trees on the Paradise stock produce pretty fruits. The fruit is
often more conical than shown in the figure.

RIBSTON PIPPIN, T.—Séim, rough; ground colour, orange yellow, more or less
covered with patches of russet and dotted white, brownish red on sunny side in a warm
season, but frequently entirely covered with rough russet ; flesh, leathery, cream colour;
stalk, set in a greenish basin; favour, very highly developed, spicy ; season, November
to February ; growth, spreading, leaves very downy underneath. This old favourite is
still in demand for garden culture, and trees worked on the Paradise stock are less

16 THE FRUIT GARDEN

affected by canker than those on the Crab stock. Suitable for all forms of garden trees,
but it does not pay as an orchard fruit. Ferd¢¢/ity moderate. This is a very valuable
fruit ; in the warm seasons of 1899-1900 many examples were entirely free from the
russet usually characteristic. The fruit is not always so irregular round the eye as
shown in the figure. ;

RosEeMARyY RUSSET, T.—Sézn, slightly rough; ground colour, yellow flushed with
rosy copper and entirely covered with netted russet; flesh, leathery; flavour, rich and
aromatic; season, December to March; growth, moderate, forms a neat orchard
standard and bears regularly. Garden trees succeed in all forms on the Paradise stock.
The flowers are very large, of a faint blush colour. :

Ross NONPAREIL (Carey Pippin), T.—S42, rough; colour, yellow, almost entirely
hidden by a coat of thin russet and bronzy red, striped crimson; /es#, tender, nearly
white and mealy; favour, distinct, spicy, and rich; seasonx, October to December ;
growth, twiggy, weeping as a standard. One of the best garden sorts on the Paradise
stock ; succeeds in all forms. ertzlity first-class ; requires some thinning, as the fruit
comes in clusters.

RouNnDWay MaGnum Bonu, T., K., F.C.C. 1864.—S#im, slightly rough; ground
colour, pale canary yellow, striped with red and bronzy red; flesh, firm and white;
flavour, rich and aromatic; season, December to January; grow¢h, free and spreading,
with large downy foliage. One of the richest and best of all dessert apples. It forms
large orchard standards and fine bushes on the Paradise stock, but, because of its free
growth, is not so useful for cordons or espaliers. The fruits are apt to fall as they
develop. When ripe they are often immense and too large for dessert, but are of
splendid quality baked or in tarts, and the smaller fruits can be used for dessert. Its
good quality in a great measure compensates the grower for a small crop. Large
fruits are angular.

ROVAL JUBILEE, GRAHAM’S (Bunyard’s Jubilee); introduced at Queen Victoria’s
first jubilee, K.—Szm, dry and harsh, greasy after storing; colowr, bright golden;
fesh, tender, cream-coloured; flavour, second-rate ; season, October to February;
growth, sturdy and vigorous, wood nut-brown. Forms a compact orchard tree, but
grows slowly. Does well in the Midlands, but introduced as a market fruit, and,
because of its colour, sells well. Very free from canker, and blossoms so late that it
bears every year; requires thinning, as the fruits are produced in clusters.

ROYAL LATE COOKING, K., T., A.M. 1896.—S4im, smooth and shining ; colour,
orange yellow marked with faint russet ; flesh, firm and juicy, cream-coloured ; sza/h,
set in greenish basin; Yavour, rich and pleasant; season, February and March;
growth, free, rather spreading. Although described as a kitchen fruit, it is suitable for
dessert late in the season. It resembles very much both Bedfordshire Foundling and
Diamond Jubilee as certificated in March 1901. Suitable for bush or espalier culture,
but not for cordons. fertizty average.

SANDRINGHAM, k., T., F.C.C. 1883.— Sz, smooth and dry; ground colour, dull
yellow, brownish red flecked with crimson ; /esf, firm and juicy, greenish white ; s/a/é,
set in starry greenish russet basin ; favour, pleasantly aromatic; season, January to
March ; grow?¢h, upright and compact. A valuable late cooking sort, and useful also
for dessert at the end of its season. Forms a neat upright garden tree on the Paradise
stock, and a compact orchard standard. Fertrlity excellent. Smaller fruits are much
more conical than shown in the figure, and sometimes of uneven shape. The flowers
are a beautiful soft pink, shaded darker outside.

ST. EDMUND’s PIPPIN, T., F.C.C. 1875.—Szin, rough; ground colour, cinnamon
yellow almost entirely covered with russet, suffused with silvery russet ; /Zesh, rather
leathery, faint buff-coloured ; flavour, very rich; season, October and November ;
growth, compact and full of spurs. A very fine russet apple for autumn use; does
ae as a garden tree. The fruit is sometimes larger and flatter than shown in the

gure.

SANSPAREIL, T., K., F.C.C. 1900.—Sézz, smooth and dry; ground colour, lemon
yellow shaded rosy red, with carmine stripes and flecks ; flesh, firm, juicy, pale cream-

THE APPLE 17

coloured ; flavour, sweet, brisk, and spicy; season, February to April; growth, free,
compact, with many spurs. Forms a pretty garden tree on the Paradise stock in all
forms, and a neat orchard standard ; free from canker. A valuable late fruit, keeps
firm, and is good enough for dessert. Fertility very good; fruits must be thinned, or
they will be small. Some fruits are more conical than shown in the figure.

SCARLET NONPAREIL (Introduced 1700), T., A.M. 1900.— Sz, slightly rough ;
ground colour, dull yellow flushed with reddish brown, with white dots and patches of
thin russet ; fesh, pale primrose with faint green markings ; s¢a/z, frequently swollen ;
flavour, very rich, sweet, and piquant ; season, January to April; growth, compact,
upright and twiggy. Foliage long, narrow, green beneath ; wood, chocolate-coloured,
and with bright silver dots. One of the best garden apples for all forms of trees.
Some fruits are deeper than others.

SEATON HousE (Niton House), K., T.—S#z7, smooth and greasy ; ground colour,
bright yellow striped with faint red; flesh, tender, white ; sfa/k, set in starry russet basin;
flavour, pleasant ; season, October and November; gvowfh, compact, covered with
spurs ; fruit buds often form in the axils of the current year’s growth. Most suitable as
a garden tree on Paradise stock inallforms. Bears most freely and regularly, and requires
thinning. A good sort for small gardens. Fo/zage bright green, narrow, sharply pointed.

STIRLING CASTLE, K.—Sfim, smooth and greasy; colour, creamy white; flesh,
tender, snowy white, crystalline ; ffavour, sub-acid ; season, September and October ;
growth, compact. Weeps with the weight of fruit, and therefore not suitable as an
orchard standard. One of the best apples for small gardens as a bush or free pyramid.
It is a valuable market fruit, and pays for severe thinning. /ertz/ity remarkable ; never
fails. The flowers of this variety are very handsome, and last a long time in beauty.
When the bronzy young foliage begins to appear, a lovely contrast results.

STONE’S APPLE (Loddington Seedling), K., F.C.C. 1877.—Skzm, rough and greasy,
ground colour, greenish primrose with faint red stripes and markings ; /es/, firm, white ;
Jiavour, rich, sweet and spicy ; season, September to December ; growth, sturdy and
spreading ; very full of spurs. This variety is very often grafted on old trees, and does
remarkably well. The fruit is very large, and can be sold from the tree or stored. On the
Paradise stock this apple forms most fruitful bushes ; itis one of the best dumpling apples,
and very good as a dessert fruit. Sometimes more pointed than shown in the figure.

STRIPED BEAUFIN (Beefing), K., T.— Sz, slightly rough ; colour, greenish yellow
with flecks of russet round the eye, faint red on the sunny side, splashed deep crimson ;
Jiesh, firm, greenish white; s¢a/z, set in a russet basin ; flavour, rich and pleasant ;
season, November to February ; gvowth, very vigorous and spreading. Forms a large
orchard tree and a fruitful bush on the Paradise stock, but is not suitable as an espalier
or cordon, as the spurs are so far apart. Late in the season it is an excellent sort for
baking. ertzlity moderate.

STURMER PIPPIN, T.—Shim, smooth ; ground colour, pea-green, frequently covered
with bronze on sunny side ; /esh, firm, greenish white ; s¢a/k, set in a green and deep
depression ; favour, brisk and piquantly spicy; season, March to June; grow¢h,
compact and twiggy. One of the best late garden apples, and worthy of a wall in cool
climates. The fruits must be left on the trees well into November, or they shrivel when
stored and lose that crisp flavour which should be their characteristic. Fruits are so
freely produced as to require thinning. ;

SUMMER GOLDEN PIPPIN (Yellow Ingestrie), T.—S#zz, smooth ; colour, entirely
orange yellow, faintly spotted ; flesh, tender, yellowish ; flavour, sweet and pleasant ;
season, September ; growth, slender and pendulous, very wiry. foliage small, oval,
sharply pointed. //owers very small and numerous, of a purer white than any other
variety. A valuable apple for the north, and a profitable market fruit. Fertd/dty first-
class and constant. : ‘

THE QUEEN (Saltmarsh’s Queen), K., F.C.C. 1880.—S#im, smooth and slightly
greasy ; ground colour, greenish lemon with broad stripes of red and rosy-red ; flesh,
very tender, white; s¢a/k, set in a greenish basin; flavour, sweet and pleasant ;
season, October to December; growth, spreading and free. Foliage pale green, flat,

B

18 THE FRUIT GARDEN

shining, regularly oval, hoary beneath. Often of dessert quality, and one of the hand-
somest fruits grown. Forms a large spreading orchard tree and a wide bush on the
Paradise stock. Not suitable for cordons. Fertd/ity moderate. :

TOWER OF GLAMIS (Bess Pool [of Kent], Carse 0’ Gowrie), K.—Shz#, very
smooth and slightly greasy ; colour, bright canary yellow, with few brown dots ; /esh,
firm, juicy, and yellowish white ; séa/z, set in a green basin ; favour, sweet and brisk,
season, from October to December; growth, stout, free, and spreading. Foliage
round, dark green, very broad and bold. A valuable sort for all methods of culture.
One of the heaviest bearers known. The fruits do not readily fall in windy weather.
Cooks well. Fertility excellent. This fruit varies considerably, and is often one-sided
and more conical than shown in the figure. :

WAGENER, K.—Sé#iz, smooth ; ground colour, bright yellow, and salmon red, striped
carmine and red; flesh, crisp and juicy, whitish; s¢a/z, very deeply set ; flavour, spicy
and quince-like ; season, April to June; growth, compact, sturdy, and full of spurs.
Foliage, bright green, shining ; wood, nut-brown. From America. One of our best late
garden sorts ; fruits can be left on the tree till November, and keep firm to the last.
Although little known, such a valuable bearer is worthy of note, even in a hundred.
fertility remarkable. ;

WALTHAM ABBEY SEEDLING (Dr. Harvey), K., T.—Sééz, smooth ; colour, rich
yellow ; flesh, very tender, white and mealy ; favour, sweet, rich, and pleasant ; season,
November and December ; grow¢h, compact and twiggy. A valuable orchard fruit tree,
which is a regular bearer when once the tree is of good size and age, but not suitable for
garden culture, as severe pruning removes the fruit-spurs. A favourite dessert fruit
with many. A splendid baking sort, which does not “ fall” in cooking.

WARNER’sS KiNG (D. T. Fish, Irish Giant, King), K.—Sz, smooth and dry;
colour, greenish yellow, rarely with scarlet flush; flesh, soft and white; s/adk, set in a
russet basin; flavour, sub-acid ; season, October and November; grow?¢h, vigorous,
spreading ; folzage, very large, reflexed. This is the largest apple grown, and has scaled
32 ounces in Kent. A very valuable garden fruit for culture on the Paradise stock and
as a free bush, but its vigour makes it unfit for an espalier or cordon. Asa market fruit
it sells freely ; it also cooks well. The tree is liable to canker in cold soils, and should
not be too severely pruned. Forms a spreading orchard tree.

WEALTHY, T., F.C.C. 1893.—S#zm, smooth, slightly greasy ; ground colour, pale
orange striped round the eye with crimson, deepening in colour towards the base, where
it is striped with very dark crimson; /éesh, tender, creamy white ; flavour, rich and
sweet ; season, October and November; growth, upright, spreading as it gets size.
Valuable for decoration alone, but esteemed by many for its tender flesh, and one of the
few American sorts that succeed well in Britain. Not suitable for orchard culture,
but most useful on the Paradise stock in all forms. Fertility excellent. The fruit
baa always hangs downwards, and is therefore most highly coloured round the
stalk.

WELLINGTON (Dumelow’s Seedling, Normanton Wonder), K.—S#z, smooth:
ground colour, creamy white and bronzy red, sometimes scarlet with crimson dots and
stripes and black specks ; /esh, firm and juicy, greenish white ; s¢a/%, slightly russet,
frequently swollen ; favour, slightly acid ; season, December to March; growth, com-
pact, rather weeping, twiggy. /o/dage, moderate in size, shining bright green; shoots
much marked with silver dots and spots. The best apple for cooking ; the tree is not
quite hardy, and suffers during very severe frosts. From a garden tree on the Paradise
stock the fruit is much improved, but Newton Wonder and Bramley’s Seedling are
preferable for orchard culture. Its market repute, however, is high. Bears well every
other year. A great favourite in the kitchen, as the flesh: becomes nearly transparent
and has a refreshing acid flavour when cooked.

WHITE NONPAREIL, T.—Skz2, rough ; colour, greenish yellow, almost covered with
dull cinnamon russet ; /lesh, leathery, greenish white; favour, sweet and aromatic;
season, December and January; growth, neat and compact. A valuable garden fruit for
culture on the Paradise stock ; bears freely in any form.

‘HLIVd NAGUPD AG SUYYNL ATddk VAITFdSH NOGYOO

AN APPLE WALK IN THE GARDENS AT OVERSTRAND

THE APPLE 19

WHITE TRANSPARENT (Early Transparent), K., T., A.M. 1895.—Séin, dry and
harsh ; colour, palest primrose ; flesh, crisp, very white, almost transparent near the
core; flavour, briskly sub-acid "and suitable for dessert ; 5 season, early August, some-
times middle of July; gvow¢h, upright and free. Forms most prolific trees on the
Paradise stock ; bears fruit in clusters. Good as a cordon. Quite first-class for cooking.
Forms an upright orchard standard, and bears when quite young so freely as to require
thinning. Many prefer it as a dessert fruit. Very handsome. Sometimes more one-
sided and conical than shown in the figure.

WINTER QUEENING (Sussex Duck’s Bill).—S#iz, rough and harsh ; ground colour,
dull yellow with bronzy red cheek striped with bright red, and often crimson all over,
with patches of thin russet and many dots ; flesh, mealy, dull greenish yellow ; flavour,
sweet, rather rich and pleasant; s¢a/f, set in a greenish basin ; season, February to April ;
growth, forms a large spreading orchard tree and a prolific bush on the Paradise stock.
Foliage, shining, downy beneath.

WORCESTER PEARMAIN, T., F.C.C. 1875.—S#iz; smooth ; ground colour, orange
yellow, almost entirely covered with deep crimson ; flesh, tender, whitish ; sfa/f, set in
russet basin; flavour. sweet and pleasant; season, September ; growzh, upright and
compact. A very profitable market apple, brilliant colour. Useful for orchards and
plantations, as its upright growth allows of dwarf bush trees being grown beneath.
Finest fruits are had from trees on the Paradise stock. It is a favourite with many for
the table and for decoration. Fertility first-rate. Fruits require to be thinned, as they
are produced in clusters. Sometimes more pointed than shown in the figure. The
flowers of this variety are very distinct, being quite white inside, salmon pink and yellow
outside.

SELECTIONS OF APPLES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES

Ercut Brest ApPLEs FoR SMALL GARDENS

DESSERT.
Mr. Gladstone . . . July, August Cox’s Orange Pippin . . Oct., Nov.
Lady Sudeley. . . . . September Cockle’s Pippin. . . . Christmas
COOKING.
Pott’s Seedling . . . . Aug., Sept. Bismarck . . . . Nov., Dec.
Stirling Castle. . . . . October Lane’s Prince Albert |. January

The above are regular bearers, succeed in any form, and require very little
pruning.

Best Apples FOR LARGER GARDENS

DESSERT.

Mr. Gladstone . . . July, August Allington Pippin. . . . Dec., Jan.
Devonshire Quarrenden . August Ribston Pippin . . . Oct., Nov.
Lady Sudeley. . . . . September Cockle’s Pippin . . Christmas
Margil . . . « October Old Nonpareil. . . . Dec., Jan.
King of the Pippins. . . November Claygate Pearmain. . . January
Cox’s Orange Pippin . . Oct., Nov. Lord Burghley . . . . February —
Mother. . . art Re iy Sturmer Pippin . . . . March, April

Egremont Russet... December Allen’s Everlasting . . . His 5

20

Best Apptes FoR LarceR GaRDENs (continued)

Early White ne
Pott’s Seedling ;
Ecklinville Seedling
Stirling Castle

Warners King

Lord Derby

Blenheim Orange
Bismarck :

Mr. Gladstone

Devonshire Quarrenden ;

James Grieve .
Wealthy.

Margil .

King of the Pippins
Mother .

Calville Rouge Precoce
Cox’s Orange Pippin
St. Edmund’s Pippin
Ross Nonpareil .

Duchess of Oldenburg.
Pott’s Seedling

Lord Grosvenor

Lord Suffield .
Grenadier .

Golden Spire .

Seaton House.

THE FRUIT GARDEN

COOKING.
August Tower of Glamis.
Aug., Sept. Golden Noble. :
October Lane’s Prince Albert
October Wellington .
November Bramley’s Seedling .
Nov., Dec. Alfriston.

Newton Wonder,
| Northern Greening .

APPLES FOR CoRDONS

DESSERT.
August Adams’ Pearmain
ie Hubbard’s Pearmain
September Allington Pippin .
October Scarlet Nonpareil
Ps Norman’s Pippin.

9 Lord Burghiey
October Duke of Devonshire
os Rosemary Russet

Oct., Feb. Sturmer Pippin
November Allen’s Everlasting
2 Fearn’s Pippin
COOKING.
August Lord Derby
September Bismarck
PA Lane’s Prince Albert
e Sandringham .
Sept., Oct. Alfriston

Calville Malingre
Calville Rouge

ProFIraBLeE Apples FoR MarKET

(Grown on Paradise Stock as Bushes)

Beauty of Bath

Red Quarrenden.
Lady Sudeley .
Worcester Pearmain
Yellow Ingestrie.
Duchess’ Favourite .
King of the Pippins.

DESSERT.

July, August Cox’s Orange Pippin

Beauty of Barnack .

” ”

September Allington Pippin.

Sept., Oct. Gascoigne’s Scarlet .
September Christmas Pearmain
Sept. to Oct. Winter Quarrenden.
October Baumann’s Reinette

December

”
January

”

February
March

December

”
Nov., Feb.
Jan., Feb.
January
February

cr.

”
Very late
”

”

November
December
Jan., March
February
Feb., March
Feb. to March

” ”

Nov., Feb.
November
Dec., Feb.
December

22

”
January

THE APPLE 21

PROFITABLE APPLES FOR Marker (continued)

COOKING.
Early White Transparent. July Lord Derby . . . . Oct., Nov.
Lord Suffield . . . . Aug., Sept. Stone’s Apple 9 5
Pott’s Seedling . 45 i Tower of Glamis 35 %
Lord Grosvenor . ‘s 4 Warner’s King Bey op
Early Julien . . ae ois ss Bismarck . . . . Nov., Dec.
Ecklinville sesdiing Sept., Oct. Lane’s Prince Albert . . Dec., March
Grenadier . ‘ : et 3 Bramley’s Seedling. . 4 "i
Stirling Castle 5 3 Newton Wonder. 55 9
Golden Spire. . : ee 5

(Grown as Orchard Standards)
j DESSERT.

Beauty of Bath . . . August Cox’s Orange Pippin . . Nov., Feb.
Devonshire Quarrenden . September Allington Pippin . ss ay
Duchess’ Favourite. . End of Sept. Blenheim Orange 5 35
Worcester Pearmain . . September Gascoigne’s Scarlet Seed-
King of the Pippins. . . October lings . . »« « « Dee, Jan,
Col. Vaughan. . . . Sept., Oct.

COOKING.
Lord Grosvenor . Aug., Sept. Bismarck . . ‘ . December
Lord Suffield. . - S Blenheim Orange . . Nov., Feb.
Grenadier. . : m Wellington. . . . . Jan., March
Golden Spire. . October Newton Wonder. 53 3
Warner’s King . November Bramley’s Seedling . 35
Tower of Glamis. . 3 Northern Greening . 35 5
Lord Derby . . Winter Queening . Feb., April
Waltham Abbey Seedling. Nov, Feb.

APPLES OF RECENT INTRODUCTION

These may after trial prove to be useful additions.

BARNACK BEAUTY.—A conical, highly coloured fruit, valuable for market sale.
November. A.M. 1899

Ben’s RED.—A scarlet fruit, like a late Quarrenden ; for market sale. October.
A.M. 1899.

BIELO BORADAWKA.—A large fruit, after Duchess of Oldenburg, but of sweeter
flavour, and larger. A great bearer.

Bow HI. PIPppiIn.—A large fruit of Blenheim Orange type; very pleasant flavour.

BYFORD WONDER.—A large late, green fruit, after Warners King. F.C.C. 1898.

Cuas. Ross,—A very handsome fruit. Cox’s Orange Pippin x Peasgood’s None-
such. F.C.C. 1899.

22 THE FRUIT GARDEN

EARLY VICTORIA.—A very free-bearing Codlin from Wisbech, resembling Lord
Grosvenor. ;

GOLD MeEpaL.—A very large, flat Codlin, A better sort is found in Grenadier
(which see).

LANGLEY BEAUTY.—A pretty, early fruit, with flavour of Mr. Gladstone. August.
A.M. 1898. :

LorD HINDLIP.—A richly flavoured dessert fruit, after Cornish Gilliflower (which
see), and of like weeping habit.

NORFOLK BEauty.—A fine large yellow fruit. A free-bearing Waltham Abbey
cross that is most promising. A.M. I19o1.

ONTARIO.—A long-keeping kitchen apple, quite sound in May and June.

PaROQUET.—A scarlet market fruit, like Barnack Beauty. A.M. 1899.

PRINCE EDWARD.—A russety March fruit with scarlet blotches. A.M.

VENUS’ PIPPIN.—A very free-bearing early fruit, local in Torquay. A.M.
is WILLIAMS’ FAVOURITE.—A little known, dull red, September fruit. Good bearer.

.M.

WINTER QUARRENDEN.—A deep red-coloured November-December fruit. A

valuable late market variety. A.M. 1898.

AppLE, THE CusTaRD (see p. 207).

CHAPTER FI}

THE APRICOT

By OWEN THOMAS

WHEN one realises that this valuable fruit has been with us for a matter of
nearly four hundred years, having been introduced into Britain from Italy
by Wolf (gardener to King Henry the Eighth), in the year 1524, it does
seem incredible that its merits, especially as an article of commerce, have not
been more fully recognised, and its great possibilities in this direction more
developed. We cannot here shelter ourselves under the plea that the climate
of France (from where ten times as many apricots as we grow are exported
to Britain) is so much better suited to the growth of this fruit tree than
that of England. The contrary is the case, and if further proof is needed it
is to be found in the fact that English-grown apricots, if delivered in good
condition, realise in the market at least 20 per cent. more than do the French,
yet as an article of commercial value this fruit has received scarcely any
attention, nor have its possibilities in this way been turned to practical use
by our horticulturists. As one item that goes to make up the importance of
the minor industries associated with the land in this country, the apricot, I
am well convinced, is deserving of more serious consideration.

A wall with a warm aspect is necessary to grow it to perfection. Where walls
are non-existent, 1 should certainly not recommend expensive brick ones to be
built for this purpose; but what I would recommend to those who wish to
make money out of their gardens is to plant an apricot tree against every
available inch of warm wall they may have about their premises, whether it
is a wall of the house in which they live, or the buildings by which this is
surrounded. I may say that it has been proved beyond doubt, and the fact
is now generally admitted, that in the south of England there are miles of
garden walls planted with varieties of pears, that would succeed much better
planted out in open quarters than against warm walls. They might well make
room for the more remunerative apricot. The hardy variety “Breda” will
succeed well as a bush or standard in warm and sheltered positions in the open
garden in the south of England, and deserves to be more extensively cultivated
in this way. Before the trees are planted the borders should be deeply trenched
and well manured, in order to be able to maintain not only the vigour and
fertility of the fruit trees, but also the surface crops, such as early vegetables and
salads.

PLantinc.—The apricot is supposed to be a native of Armenia, and, like

the peach, loves all the natural heat and light we can give to it; therefore,
23

24 THE FRUIT GARDEN

where possible, it should have a position on a wall facing south, south-east, or
south-west, or even on a wall with a west aspect it will prove satisfactory. It
will not thrive against a wall facing east; in this position I have found that
it suffers more damage from frost when in bloom than in any other. The
apricot also loves warm soil, and it goes without saying that the border in
which it is planted must be well drained, and the nature of the soil not too
heavy and close. Where the latter is the case, old brick and mortar rubble,
road scrapings, leaf-mould, or, in the absence of any of these, clean river sand
will be useful for adding to the soil. This refers particularly to clayey soil or
that which has not been well cultivated ; generally, it may be said that the
apricot will succeed in any well-cultivated garden soil, giving preference to that
which is of a holding rather than of a light texture. Such is the nature of
the soil in the Royal Gardens at Frogmore, where the trees bear heavy crops
regularly.

As all those know who have had anything to do with the apricot, the
greatest trouble one has to contend with is the unfortunate constitutional
weakness it is subject to of losing many of its main branches, often in a most
unaccountable way. This, unfortunately, is a trouble for which no remedy
has yet been found. Neither, so far as I know, has any satisfactory and con-
clusive reason been given as to the cause of the mischief; many attribute it to
injury to the bark by bruising with the hammer at nailing time, or to an acci-
dental cut with a knife, or to severe autumn frosts. I do not think it is
possible effectually to stamp out this tendency of the apricot to disease, but I
do believe it is possible to mitigate its ravages considerably by timely attention
to root-pruning during the first few years of its existence. In nine cases out of
ten it is the strongest branches that die first, and this fact to my mind clearly
points to the remedy. Gross shoots are produced by gross roots, therefore
careful root-pruning must be resorted to for the first few years, indeed, until
the tree is able to produce regular and heavy crops of fruit, thereby preventing
these gross shoots by finding a more profitable channel for the tree’s energies
in maturing its crops of fruit. This is my experience, that if one can pre-
vent the strong growths from appearing during the first four or five years,
until the tree has attained a fruitful size, much will have been done to secure
immunity from this trouble, certainly for many years.

TRAINING AND Pruninc.—The usual, and I think the best method of
training the apricot, is in the form of a fan (fan-shaped), whether the tree is a
dwarf or a standard. The distance apart I recommend apricot trees to be
planted is 14 feet between the dwarf ones with a standard tree between.
This will perhaps be considered by many to be too short a distance between
the trees, but bear in mind that a young tree only costs a few shillings, and
that the sooner you can cover a wall with fruitful trees the better. When
the trees meet, every other may be taken out and planted somewhere else, or
disposed of in some other way, as well-trained healthy trees of this age soon
find a good market. As regards planting and root-pruning for the first season,
the instructions given for the treatment of the young peach tree should be
followed, ‘The subsequent treatment as regards pruning is somewhat different

the APRICOT oa

from that advised for the peach, because a larger number of main branches must
be introduced ; indeed, the tree will be wholly composed of main branches,
and instead of laying in small shoots which issue from the latter, as advised
in the case of the peach, they must be shortened back to three buds to form
fruit-bearing spurs along the whole of the main branches. The spurs should
be formed on the upper side of the branch, and should be from 4 to 6 inches
apart. “hese will be permanent, and as time goes on the number of shoots
on a spur will be added to by each year’s growth, and to prevent their
becoming too numerous, disbudding will have to be resorted to in spring.
As a rule, only two or three growths on a spur should be allowed. In time
the spurs will become large and ungainly, extending far from the branch,
and it will be necessary to cut them off altogether. Younger growths will

PORTION OF BRANCH WITH CHAR-
ACTERISTIC GROWTHS

é ys (a) Two-year-old side branch with continuation growth and spurs
bearing fruit ; (4) two-year-old spur in fruit; (c) fruits pro-
duced on the preceding year’s wood with growths forming

either short stubby shoots, or spurs for following season's bearing; (e)

spur forming a cluster of blossom buds with a wood bud at apex ; (/) side
shoot gue may be either pinched or trained in to fill vacant space; (g) continuation of
branch,

replace them, and the appearance of the tree will in time by this process be much
improved. ‘This work must be carried out with caution, and only a few of the
old spurs should be cut away at a time, otherwise much of the crop will be
sacrificed for a year or two. Any vacant spaces between the branches can be
filled by nailing or tying in the previous year’s shoots in their entirety.
THINNING THE FrRuirs.—If fine well-developed fruits for dessert are desired,
thinning must be done freely, for the apricot, as a rule, sets its fruits
abundantly ; one fruit to each spur will be sufficient, but if the intention is
to grow apricots for preserving, then three may be left for a full crop. A
healthy apricot tree is as capable of bearing a heavy crop of fruit without
injury as any fruit tree. The thinning should be carried out not all at once,
but on two if not three occasions: the first, soon after the fruits are set, when
they are the size of small peas, and then only the smallest should be picked ; the
second, when the fruits have reached the size of hazel nuts (they are then useful

26 THE FRUIT GARDEN

for tarts); and in about a fortnight’s time they should be finally looked over to
see that not more are left on the trees than these can mature without injury.

SUMMER TREATMENT.—As regards this, theapricot does not give much trouble,

ParRT OF A LEAFLESS BRANCH

(4) Side branches; (¢) spurs on two-year-old
(preceding season's) wood; (/) spurs on more
than two-year-old wood; (£) two-year-old
wood cut out, after bearing, at the cross lines
to a successional shoot, as the finest apricots
are produced on wood of the preceding year's
formation; one side branch is shortened
back, often necessary to prevent crossing and
encroaching on neighbouring branch ; (Z)
shoots of one year’s growth for the succeed-
ing year’s bearing ; (wz) terminal or continua-
tion growth ; (z) growth trained in for filling
vacant space, or furnishing tree, as well as
for fruiting the following season ; the lower
side of branch and the side branches there
are shown properly pruned and trained,

especially if disbudding has been carefully
attended to, for when heavily cropped the
growth of foliage is not excessive. Stop
the lateral growths at the sixth or seventh
leaf, and tie in or nail the terminal shoots ;
these, so long as there is any portion of
wall to furnish, should be laid in and
secured without any shortening whatever.
When a good crop is assured, a mulching
of well-decayed manure should be applied
to the roots for 2 feet from the wall.
This not only prevents the border from
becoming dry, but it will help the trees
very materially to develop and mature a
heavy crop of fruit by means of the
manurial ingredients washed down to the
roots by rain. Frequent waterings should
be given during hot dry weather while
the fruits are swelling. As soon as the
crop is gathered, the soil about the roots
should be thoroughly watered, so as to
recoup the wasted energies of the tree
after the ordeal of maturing a heavy crop,
and diluted stableyard manure should be
given. ‘Two or three light dressings of
nitrate of soda in the course of the season
will be found of great advantage to the
developing fruit ; during the summer look
over and regulate the growth of the trees.
As a rule if a good crop has been pro-
duced there is very little superfluous growth
to be removed. Should there be any,
August is the time to remove it, so that
the remaining shoots may have the advan-
tage of full exposure for the rest of the
season. When, after fruiting, the trees
have been once well watered it is best as

a rule (unless the season is exceptionally hot and dry) not to give them more ;
the rainfall will supply all that is necessary afterwards.

Insect ENnemiEes.—The apricot tree suffers as little or even less perhaps from
insect pests than any other hardy fruit tree, sca/e being its greatest enemy.
Red spider will sometimes make its appearance in very hot seasons and will
attack the trees, especially if these are carrying a heavy crop, or suffering from

THE APRICOT 27

insufficiency of water overhead and at the roots. ‘The cause here suggests the
remedy, namely, water, which should be liberally and promptly applied, and
then no harm will result.

PRorecTING THE Biossom.—The apricot being the earliest to bloom of
any of our hardy fruit trees, expanding its flowers in February and March, a
season of the year when they are often exposed to most winterly and inclement
weather, some protection to them is imperative in order to secure a full crop.
Where the usual coping of board or glass with tiffany blinds (on rollers) exists,
which can be lowered to cover the wall in front of the trees, no better protection
can be had. Where this provision does not exist, I should not recommend the
grower to go to the expense which the erection of these structures entails, as I
believe the end in view can be accomplished quite as successfully by substituting
herring nets for the tiffany. In the case of the coping and tiffany there is not
only the primary cost, but the subsequent cost in unfolding and fastening
these blinds every night, as well as the work entailed every morning in rolling
them up again. Herring nets, if suspended (double or treble thickness) against
the wall will answer equally well, and these may remain from the time they are
fixed until they can safely be removed, therefore giving little or no trouble, and
costing very little in the first place. “The blossoms of the apricot withstand from
five to seven degrees of frost without injury, without protection of any kind
excepting that of the wall, and it is astonishing how effectively protected the
bloom is even by the most simple and flimsy material. I ought to say that, in
suspending the nets, care must be taken not to allow them to rest upon the trees
or the flowers ; they must be distant at least a few inches from the latter, and this
is best secured by placing rough stakes or poles against the wall for the nets to
rest upon.

THE APRICOT UNDER GLASS

It is only on a limited scale that the apricot has hitherto been grown under
glass in this country for dessert, the reason being, I suppose, that for this
purpose it has not been sought after so much as the peach and the nectarine,
and also for the reason that the tree is not so amenable to treatment under
glass as most of our other hardy fruit trees, particularly when grown as an
orchard-house tree in a pot. Fair success may be obtained by this method of
cultivating the apricot, but it is necessary to take great care, especially when
the trees are in bloom ; a free circulation of air is then absolutely necessary to
secure “a good set of fruit’? ; a high temperature in the house is very injurious.
A. glass-covered wall or a house is usually made use of when the apricot is
grown under cover, and when treated in this manner the quality, size, and
flavour of the fruits are greatly improved. One peculiarity of the apricot must
be noted before it can be successfully grown under glass, viz. that the trees
must not be forced in the early stages of growth. The late Mr. Ewing, of
Bodorgan, Anglesea, used to devote one of his then famous glass walls to
apricot culture, and succeeded very well ; but not at first, when the attempt
was made without fire heat, because of the condensed moisture that gathered
in the house, and which, at the time of year when the trees were in bloom in

28 THE FRUIT GARDEN

the moist climate of Anglesea could not be removed, and consequently the
blossoms used not to set well. However, this dificulty was removed by having
a flow and return hot-water pipe, which was never used excepting when the
trees were in bloom, and then always with as much dry air as could be admitted.
Good crops were afterwards secured,
although from my experience of the
apricot it does not bear so freely
under glass as it does out of doors.
The best example of this system of
culture was once to be seen at Wel-
beck Abbey, the seat of his Grace
the Duke of Portland, where a great
extent of glass-covered walls was
devoted to apricot culture. The
important points to remember for
the successful cultivation of this fruit
under glass are: keep the house fairly
cool at all times ; do not use fire heat
except when the trees are in bloom,
and then only in conjunction with
as much air as can be safely given,
remembering that the atmosphere of
CHARACTERISTIC GROWTH WITH SIDE SHOOTS the house—at least for a few hours
PINCHED in the day—should be dry, when the
(0) A side shoot pinched at fifth leaf from base, the flowers should be fertilised by being
object being to keep bearing wood near branch and gently brushed over with a camel-
limit growth to space at command; laterals are hair brush or a rabbit’s tail. When
pinched to one or two leaves ; () terminal growth * *
of a leafless branch; (g) a side shoot, leafless, @ Crop 1S secured, and the final thin-
pichedsimiarly oo; (spurt te routded buds ing is over, the fruits may be forced
wood buds ; (s) wood buds ; (z) blossom buds. by closing the house in the after-
noon, but not too early, syringing,
of course, before closing. In this way ripe fruit can be had three weeks or
a month before it is ripe out of doors. Quality and flavour are so much
improved when the apricot is grown under glass that a house or two devoted
to its culture should be included in every good garden.
VaRIETIES.— Che following are recommended for culture under glass :—
Frogmore Early, New Large Early, Grosse Péche, Oullin’s Early, Shipley’s, Moor
Park, Hemskerk, Large Early, Powell's Late, Large Red.

VARIETIES
By GEORGE BUNYARD

Varieties of apricots in many cases closely resemble each other, although the
trees differ in growth and foliage.

BRED.A.—Rather large, richly flavoured. Tree hardy and a good bearer. This
apricot succeeds in many spots as a standard tree.

THE APRICOT 29

EARLY MOORPARK.—An early variety of this esteemed apricot. Fruit rather smaller
than Moorpark ; flavour rich and sweet.

FROGMORE Ear Ly.—A good pale golden variety, of large size and excellent flavour.
Flavour sweet and luscious. F.C.C.

GROSSE PE&CHE (Large Peach).—A large and handsome fruit, deep orange, marbled
with a darker colour, and sometimes with chocolate spots. Very juicy, rich, and sweet.
Perhaps the best grown. i

HEMSKERK.—A robust variety of Moorpark, and one of the most reliable.

KAISHA OR SYRIAN.—Fruit rather small, but very freely produced. The flavour is
very sugary and delicious ; growth sturdy.

LARGE EARLY OR NEW LARGE EaRLY.—Fruit large, rather pale in colour. A very
hardy free bearer of vigorous growth. It is the first to ripen.

MOORPARK.—Fruit large, deep golden orange, with darker mottlings. Flesh melting,
very juicy and rich, and of delicious flavour. One of the best.

OULLIN’s EaRLY PEACH.—Fruit small but freely produced. When fully ripened
the sweetest.

PRECOCE DE BOULBON.—A new large, early variety, quite an acquisition. Growth
free and sturdy.

SHIPLEY’S OR BLENHEIM.—An excellent variety, large and handsome. It may best
be described as an early Moorpark, as it ripens twelve days before this. Fruit of first-
class flavour, and the branches of the tree are less liable to premature decay than others.

Banana, THE (see p. 211).

CHAPTER. III

THE BARBERRY

By GEORGE BUNYARD

Tue only useful Barberry for garden purposes is the red-fruited. The fruit
has an intensely acid flavour, but mixed with apples or other fruits in a tart
is most delicious. For decorative use in the autumn the pretty scarlet fruits
are most useful. The Barberry (Berberis vulgaris) will grow in any soil, and
forms a strong bush about 8 feet high, There is a white-fruited variety and a
seedless form, but these are not of garden interest. In nurseries the Barberry is
propagated by seed, the best seedlings only being selected for sale. ‘The purple-
leaved Barberry is valuable only for its striking foliage.

BLACKBERRIES AND ALLIED FRUITS

These useful fruits give variety to the year’s supply, and are valuable in
the making of jam, jelly, and tarts. They require but little care in cultivation,
and grow freely in any ordinary soil.

The best results are obtained from plants in rows 6 feet apart, the shoots
being trained right and left, espalier style. The fruiting shoots can then be
removed every season, and fresh sturdy growths laid in as they are produced
for the following year’s crop; some peg them down, and cut off the ends after
August to strengthen the lower buds, which next year produce strong-flowering
branches.

All the pruning necessary is to cut away the old fruiting wood, yearly, as
with raspberries. When established all grow strongly, and the plants can be
placed from 6 feet to 10 feet apart. ‘The American sorts, as a rule, flower freely,
but only fruit satisfactorily in a few positions, or in very favourable seasons.

PARSLEY-LEAVED BLACKBERRY.—This is the best of the blackberries for general
culture. The fruit is very large, freely produced, and the foliage is handsome, the stems
being of a rich colour also. It is Rudus laciniatus; in point of flavour it is not equal
to the Wild Blackberry, which can be obtained from any British hedgerow, and well
repays the care of good cultivation.

CUMBERLAND BLACKCAP, or the Whitewash Bramble (Rudus leucodermis).—This
is a handsome plant, the stems being white. ‘The fruit is small and black, and ripens
before the wild blackberries.

EARLY KING is a large-fruited American variety which ripens early.

THE LAWTON is a large American variety.

LUCRETIA is suitable for culture in damp, boggy land. The black fruits are large
and acid and resemble the Dewberry.

30

“TMOISONIST ST NEGIN ‘MONFIN GQTHIANITS LF ATINVMI GAAVAT-INO FILL

THE LOGANBERRY.

THE BARBERRY Si

WILSON JUNIOR is one of the best large American black sorts, and grows very freely.

_ THE WINEBERRY (Rubus phoentcolasius) is a strong climber and beautiful, even in
winter the shoots are thickly covered with red, short spines; in summer the velvety
foliage is conspicuous. The reddish fruits are produced freely in the autumn ; birds are

atl fond of them. The berries are small, and when cooked have a pleasant, distinct
avour,

THE LOGAN BERRY is a vigorous grower, the shoots reaching Io to 12 feet high in a
season. Its handsome foliage is striking, and it gives an abundant supply of large
red berries, which resemble raspberries before they are ripe. The Logan berry is an
American hybrid between the blackberry and the raspberry. The flavour is rich when
cooked. When used for dessert the fruits need to be fully ripe.

THE MaAuHpI.—This novelty is the result of a cross between Raspberry Belle de
Fontenay and the Common Blackberry, and a valuable addition to hardy fruits. In
habit of growth and foliage it somewhat resembles the blackberry, and the fruit ripens

during the latter part of July and early August. The flavour is excellent, superior to that
of the Logan berry. A.M. 1go1.

CHECKER TREE

This Pyrus (P. Torminalis) is a tree not unlike the sycamore in growth, but
the leaves are smaller, some 14 inch across and about 3 inches long, with small
pointed lobes. It produces bunches of dull green-coloured berries.

In October these are gathered, and as they ripen they turn a russet brown,
and possess a pleasant sub-acid flavour. They may be used for dessert, or they
make a good jelly for serving with meats.

Although a British species it is not much known beyond the Weald of Kent,
where the fruit is sold in fruiterers’ shops.

There is a Continental variety differing from the one described. The true
checker tree is raised from suckers, but is not an easy subject to bud or graft,

CRAP TER. JY

THE CHERRY

By GEORGE BUNYARD

TuE county of Kent has long been celebrated for the quality of cherries
which it produces, and in all probability they were first planted in this part of
England, of which Cesar speaks more favourably than of any other district which
he visited. Some authors assure us that the cherry, which was brought into
this country by the Romans, was lost in the Saxon period, and only restored by
Richard Harris, fruiterer to Henry VIII, who brought it from Flanders, and
planted it at Sittingbourne in Kent. This appears to be an error, as Gerarde
says “the Flanders cherry tree differeth not from our English cherry tree in
stature or in form.” ‘There is an account of a cherry orchard of 32 acres
in Kent, which in the year 1540 produced fruit that sold in those early days for
£1000, which seems an enormous sum, as at that period good land is stated to
have let at one shilling per acre !

Few of our hardy fruit trees are more accommodating than the cherry.
The cottager in his little garden may have it in the form of a bush, pyramid,
standard, or as a single cordon against a fence or wall, and the amateur may
have it in these forms also, as well as on espaliers, as recommended for pears.
He may grow it successfully under glass, either planted out or in pots, and thus
extend the season of this delicious fruit from early May to the middle of
September by growing early, mid-season, and late varieties. As an orchard crop,
where the soil and situation are favourable, few hardy fruits are capable of giving,
on an average, a better cash return. As regards soil and situation, the sweet or
dessert cherry succeeds in the southern and South Midland counties the best.
It thrives well in rather an elevated position, where it has the advantage of light,
good natural drainage, freedom from damp, immunity from frost when in flower,
and the advantage of driving showers of rain in the early summer ; these not
only refresh the trees, but keep the foliage healthy and clean. ‘The above
remarks refer more particularly to plantations or orchards. The soil in
which the cherry succeeds best is strong, somewhat marly loam, of a fair depth,
resting on a substratum of gravel or chalk; where no chalk or lime is present in
the soil, some must be added before success can be attained in the culture of the
cherry, or, we may say, of any stone fruit.

The stock used for grafting all orchard cherry trees upon should be the
common or wild black cherry. The Continental seedlings do not seem to be
so hardy, but the British stock is suitable for all. We do not find any great

advantage generally in using the Mahaleb stock for cherries, although it suits
32

THE CHERRY 33

the Duke and Morello cherries admirably. On the other hand, for pot culture
or restricted pyramidal trees, we find that trees on the cherry stock regularly
repotted or transplanted are equally as good as those on the Mahaleb.

Cordons and small trees when young must be root-pruned in any case,
fot when free growth ensues, and shoots are pruned hard, this is apt to cause
gumming, which may injure or destroy the trees. And we find that where
cherries for orchards are budded low, the stems are more easily injured and
liable to gum than when budded high on the wild cherry stock named. On the
other hand, where cherries sometimes do not succeed on the cherry stock, they
may be grown on the Mahaleb. Cherries are very liable to be called after
local places, and in this way names have been needlessly multiplied. Fruit well
cultivated in orchards differs considerably from the same varieties in starved,
poorly treated land.

CHERRIES FOR ORCHARDS

For this purpose we have to choose comparatively few sorts, and such as
will be profitable during a long series of years, for the life of a standard cherry
tree may be a hundred years, except in the case of the Flemish and Kentish
Reds, May Dukes, and like sorts. In planting a profitable cherry orchard place
trees of the larger growing varieties at 36 feet apart, and plant between each
either a Flemish, Morello, or May Duke variety ; or, if the soil is suitable, a
plum, or one of the smaller growing sorts of apples.

Pruninc.—The trees being planted according to the general directions
given in a separate chapter, they must be duly staked. If the orchard is in grass
Jand, and it is intended to run sheep or cattle among them, they should be
cradled to protect them from injury, and then be allowed to grow one year
without cutting back. We hold this to be very important. While admitting
it to be true that with very careful attention they may be cut back when planted,
we believe as a general rule it is far better to allow the trees one year’s free growth.
They then become established before any cutting back isdone. Afterwards a
yearly pruning to shape the trees is essential; but when well-disposed and
regulated head and branches are formed, they may be left alone, merely removing
any useless shoots and such as cross each other. The Flemish and Morello class
require very little pruning. The Bigarreau and black cherries will need
attention for three years after planting ; but the Rivers’ Early, Elton, and any
sorts that have long, pendent shoots, almost a weeping habit of growth, will
require attention for five or six seasons in order that the boughs may not be so
low as to be in reach of sheep or cattle. And to aid them, they should be cut
to a bud pointing inwards instead of to the usual outside bud, to form at first the
desired basin-shaped tree.

Various Posrrions.—In Kent it is usual to plant orchard cherry trees in
hop fields, removing a hill of hops and planting a cherry. The hop requires
liberal culture, and we cannot at all recommend this system, because the cherry
trees grow too freely, and they are not only liable to injury from severe frost
acting upon the unripe wood, but they make such slender growth that, when

c

34 THE FRUIT GARDEN

the hop poles are removed, and the protection afforded by the growing hop
crop is suddenly withdrawn, they are apt to be damaged by the autumn gales.
The long boughs are so bent by the wind that they are strained at the base,
and then gum and decay. We prefer cherry orchards to be formed on arable
land which is not heavily manured, or in meadow land where the stems have
3 feet of ground around them clear of grass. In these positions a sturdy, hard
growth is made, which can be well ripened before the winter, and when pruned
produces such shoots as will form a sound tree. Again, when the trees are

FRUITING BRANCH WITH CHARACTERISTIC GROWTHS

(z) Continuation of branch; (v) side shoots showing natural forking of extension branches
annually; these, and the leading shoot, must not be shortened if required for forming
branches, otherwise they should be pinched to form spurs ; if left entire they will form fruit
buds the first year with some wood buds interspersed (see leafless shoot on side) ; (zw) fruit
produced from blossom buds on preceding year’s wood; (x) spurs on last year’s wood on
which fruit is produced the following summer; (y) two-year-old spurs fruiting. Shoot
(one-year-old) on side ; (z) wood buds; (a2) blossom buds.

upon grass land, sheep should be kept in the orchards until the grass is quite
short ; then, if the sheep are fed on oil-cake or other rich food, the trees will
benefit. Nothing is more injurious to orchard trees than to allow rank long
grass to grow close to them, as it robs them of moisture and does much harm
to the surface roots. Even old neglected cherry orchards, when the grass is.
cleared from around the stems, will respond astonishingly, and a grand return
will be had from trees that appeared to be worn out.

VarieTiEs.—It is always advisable to have as few varieties as possible.
The cultivator will be able to determine whether early, mid-season, or late
fruits are most suitable, and act accordingly. Generally, the White Heart or

THE CHERRY 35

Bigarreau cherries are most profitable. Some variety, however, is advisable ;
each row or set of rows should be of one sort, so arranged in their order of
ripening that the picking can begin at one end of the orchard and finish at the
other, to save unnecessary removal of tent, ladders, and other accessories, The
Flemish, May Duke, and Morello are useful for short rows in corners; also
as shelter from the wind in exposed positions, where they can be planted twice
as thickly as the larger growing sorts.

EARLY CHERRIES.—Black: Early Kivers, Old Black Heart, Knigh’s Early Black.
White: Frogmore Bigarreau, Ludwig’s Bigarreau, Elton Heart. Red: May Duke.

MID-SEASON,—White: Kent Bigarreau. Black: Black Eagle. Red: Royal Duke.

LaTE.—White: (Vapoleon Bigarreau, Cleveland Bigarreau, Bigarreau de Mezel,
Emperor Francis, Florence, Windsor. Black: Waterloo, Black Tartarian, The Noble,
Turkey Heart. Red: Late Duke, Flemish, Kentish, Morello,

N.B.—“ White” is but a general term, as the colour of these cherries varies from pink
toadullcrimson. They are, however, known as white cherries in contradistinction to the
black and red varieties.

GARDEN CHERRIES

There are two ways in which these can be successfully grown : first, under
a permanent protection of wire-netting as bushes or pyramids, to be kept low
and pruned, for instance, as dwarf apple trees. ‘They should be planted 12
feet apart. Trees two or three years old are the most suitable, with the
branches disposed in a cup-shaped form. When such a plantation is covered
with permanent wire-netting, until the space is filled by the cherry trees,
bushes of gooseberries, currants, or strawberries may be grown between them
for some six or eight years, thus utilising both the land and the structure before
the cherries come into full bearing.

It is advisable to prune garden cherries early in the winter, as they are then
much less likely to gum. Some training is needful to bring them to the
requisite shape. When once this is obtained, a shortening of the side shoots
and the terminal leaders is all the pruning necessary. Very fine, well-ripened
fruit can thus be grown, fit for the most select dessert, and no trouble need be
apprehended from birds if the netting is properly fixed and secured.

In making a selection for this purpose, a Duke variety should be planted
between each tree of the stronger or Heart varieties; both the very earliest
and latest sorts should be included. As these pruned bushes are liable to gum
and die from insect attacks as well as other causes, it is well to have a small
stock of young trees, so that a vacancy can be filled at once by a developed
tree. Such reserve trees being transplanted every two years will be prepared
for permanent planting in the protected area without any risk or loss of crop
the first year, but the removal should be made in November.

CHERRIES FOR Bush TREES, PLACED IN THEIR ORDER OF RIPENING

VERY EARLY.—*Guigne de Louvain, *Guigne ad’ Annonay, *Belle d Orléans ;
Bigarreau Jaboulay ; *Early Rivers, *Ludwig’s Bigarreau, Baumann’s May.

EAaRLY.—*Knights Early Black, Frogmore Bigarreau, Bigarreau de Schreken,
*Governor Wood, *May Duke (Old), *keine Hortense, Werder's Black, *Belle de
Choisy, Elton Heart.

36 THE FRUIT GARDEN

Mip-SEason.— Waterloo Heart, *Royal Duke; *Kentish Bigarreau,; *Black Eagle,
Flemish and Kentish Red, *Emperor Francis, *Archduke, Ramon Oliva. :

LaTE.—* Cleveland Bigarreau,; *Bigarreau \ apoléon,; *Nouvelle Royale, Bohemian
Black, *De Mezel,*The Noble, Noir de Schmidt, *Géant de Hedelfingen, Notr de Guben,
*Late Duke Ronalas. se

Latest.—Florence, *Black Tartarian, St. Margare?’s,* Windsor, Morello, *Guigne
de Winkler. Those marked with an asterisk are most desirable for pot culture.

CHERRY TREES ON WALLS
By OWEN THOMAS

There is no doubt that the best cherries, as regards size, appearance, and
superior flavour, are obtained from trees grown on a wall with a south, south-
west, or west aspect. Provided the trees have had intelligent cultivation, the
dessert cherry will succeed on walls with any aspect. At the Royal Gardens,
Windsor, we had them even on north walls,
where they seldom had the advantage of a
gleam of sunshine, yet they never failed to
produce satisfactory crops, and, what will
seem perhaps more surprising, is the fact
that the quality of the fruit was excellent.
As the cherry will prove a success on walls
with such various aspects, where it is desired
to prolong the cherry season, plant a number
of trees against a north wall, not only late
varieties, but the best-flavoured early and
mid-season varieties as well.

As regards the preparation of the ground
(4) First at fifth leaf; (c) lateral to one leaf; for planting, little need be said here, as the

Liebe ia frst leaf; (e) point of instructions given for preparing the border
for the peach or the pear will answer

equally well for the cherry. As I have already stated, a somewhat marly
soil suits the cherry best. In this soil, with good drainage and proper watering
and mulching in hot weather, it will grow to perfection. If the land the
cultivator has to deal with is of a very heavy and clayey nature, then the best
system to adopt to bring this into proper condition for planting is to burn
the clay, afterwards adding to each cartload two barrow-loads of road scrap-
ings, burnt refuse or wood ashes, the same quantity of brick rubble broken
small, and old mortar rubble. When the whole is turned over and mixed add
a good sprinkling of fresh lime. On the other hand, should the land be light,
mar! should be applied ; as such land is generally poor, a couple of barrow-loads
of well-decayed manure may be added with each cartload of soil, as well asa
liberal dusting of lime when mixing. I have been careful not to recommend
the addition of manure to fertile soil for the cherry, for the greatest trouble one
has to guard against in cultivating a young and healthy cherry tree is gross
growth ; if gross branches are produced, gumming and canker generally follow.

SIDE SHOOT PINCHED

‘“HHUL TIVAL WV SP AYYAHO LYASSAGC AHL

‘TIF AI NO FAUL AUNZHO OTIZAXON GANIVULNVA INNAOA

THE CHERRY 37

Form or Trert.—The best form of training for wall cherry trees is the
fan shape, and three-year-old trained trees are the best. At this age the frame-
work of the tree will have been properly formed at the nursery, and its symmetry
afterwards will be easily maintained by the grower. Some growers prefer and
recommend the horizontal form of training for wall cherry trees. No doubt
they succeed very well in this way, but in my opinion better results are obtained
from fan-trained trees. I have always found it a good plan occasionally to buy
a few maiden cherry trees, planting them wherever there is a small space avail-
able on the walls, afterwards training them as one may wish.

PLANTING.—Presuming that fan-shaped trees have been obtained, and that
planting time (end of October or November)
has arrived, the trees should be placed from
12 to 15 feet apart, with a tall standard
(fan-trained) planted between. In the fol-
lowing season they will make satisfactory
progress, and it must not be forgotten that
a mulch of short manure should be applied
over the roots and occasional waterings be
given in hot, dry weather, and the oftener
the syringe or the garden water-engine can
be used in washing the trees so much
better will their progress be. As a rule,
the growth a-young cherry tree makes the
first year after planting is small, and scarcely
any pruning will be necessary the following
ayer ; but should it happen, as OCCASION peecepinc YEAR'S GROWTH STOPPED AND
ally is the case, that a strong shoot is formed, SHORTENED
this must be corrected in the same way as Bice ces tines
directed for the peach, &c., namely, by “/) Sat of wood ‘buds in previous year
lifting the tree and cutting back the strong —_(g) spurs; (#) shoot pushed from lowest
root which will invariably be found to have A Te ee Ei nie
formed. ‘The second year after planting is _ pruning.
an important one in the life of the tree, for
during that year it will have made good growth, and this the cultivator must
dispose so as to build up a symmetrical tree. When first planted, a three-year-
old tree should have from four to six branches. After the second year’s growth
it should have six more branches. Every year will add its quota until the centre
of the tree is complete. Future development will be confined to the extreme
ends of the branches, and these, as time goes on, will extend a long way ; for the
cherry tree lives to be old, and, as a rule, the older it is the more freely it bears.
The question of pruning is usually a very simple matter, for the reason that the
tree is such a persistent and regular cropper that wood growth is limited. Spur-
pruning is the system recommended, and this consists in cutting back the current
year’s shoots which form on the branches to within a couple of buds of their
bases, to shortening the fruit-spurs when they become too large and are too far
away from the wall, and also occasionally to thinning out fruit-spurs on the

38 THE FRUIT GARDEN

branches when they become, as they often do, too numerous and crowded. The
same end may be attained in an easier and better way by disbudding or thinning
out the shoots in spring, which is not so commonly practised as it ought to be.

PROTECTING THE Biossom.—lIt is a race between the cherry and strawberry
as to which shall gladden the heart of man with the first hardy fruits of the year,
and from my long experience and results of observation I scarcely know to which
to award the palm. Iam led to make these remarks by the fact of the cherry
being an early fruiter, and therefore early in bloom, and exposed to the frosty
and inclement weather of early spring that is so disastrous to many of our hardy
fruits; therefore, the question of protection for the preservation of the blossom
becomes an important one. In the case of the cherry it so happens that the
tree produces bloom in such abundance, certainly in much greater quantity
than any other hardy fruit tree, that its profusion serves in a measure as a pro-
tection against frost. Asa matter of fact, unless the frost happens to be unusually
severe, enough bloom escapes (certainly in four seasons out of five) to provide an
ample crop of fruit, so that no provision in the way of canvas blinds or other
covering is necessary. I am now speaking of wall trees. In the open
the same immunity is not enjoyed, and consequently full crops are not so
common. As regards thinning the fruit, I advise this to be carried out sparingly,
and only resorted to when the trees are bearing an extraordinary crop, and then
only for the sake of the tree rather than from any inability to mature the crop
satisfactorily. With generous and intelligent treatment in the way of mulch-
ing, watering, and keeping clean,
the cherry is capable of bearing
and ripening immense crops every
year.

PROTECTION FROM Birps.—In
the case of the cherry protection
from birds is imperative, and when
the trees are grown on walls this
is easily provided. Herring nets
are the best for the purpose, and
these are now offered at so cheap
a rate, and last so long if carefully
stored in a dry state during the
winter, that they are even within
reach of the cottager. ‘The best
way of fixing a net against a wall
A SPUR BECOME ELONGATED AND CROWDED BY is to make a skeleton framework

ANNUAL GROWTH of stout poles and laths, the poles
to be 6 feet long and driven into
the ground deeply enough to be
secure, at a distance from the wall of 6 feet, and about 6 feet apart. On the
tops of the poles laths must be fixed, and resting on these, at intervals of 6 feet,
others must be placed with one end resting on the top of the wall, acting as
rafters to carry the net. By this simple means absolute protection is afforded,

(7) Point of shortening at winter pruning.

Tata 2 Karns

STANDARD CHERRY TREE FIVE YEARS OLD (UNPRUNED).

POT CHERRY TREES IN BLOOM UNDER GLASS,

THE CHERRY 39

without the labour of removing the net each time the fruit is gathered and
the discomfort of stooping ; the net may be left over the trees until all the
fruit has been gathered,

Tue Moretto Cuerry.—This hardy, prolific, and useful cherry thrives
well on a north wall, as a bush in the open, or even planted asa hedge. It is
not particular as to climate, as it succeeded well on a north wall at Chatsworth
(Derbyshire), where the conditions for the culture of hardy fruit are as un-
favourable as any part of England. The Morello cherry is an excellent poor
man’s fruit ; it is a sure and heavy cropper, causing little trouble and com-
paratively no expense, and will thrive well in any ordinary garden soil. It isa
fruit that always finds a ready sale at remunerative prices; it makes the best
cherry brandy, and preserved for puddings and confectionery it is invaluable
to the cook or housewife during winter. The system of pruning in the case of
the Morello is different to that of the ordinary cherry, in that the spur system
is discarded for that by which peaches are usually pruned, viz. leave the previous
year’s shoots their full length, and tie or nail them to the wall 3 inches apart all
over the tree. The trees must be trained fan-shaped.

THE CHERRY UNDER GLASS

The general cultural remarks concerning cherry culture against walls out-
of-doors apply equally to trees grown in a glass-house ; the culture of cherries
in pots under glass is explained in a separate chapter. The cherry as a crop
under glass is an important and valuable one, as the fruits are ripe when other
choice fruits are scarce, namely, late in April, and throughout the month of
May. The best results are obtained by training the trees (fan-shaped) to a
trellis fixed to the roof of the house and 18 inches away from the glass. Where
this is not convenient, they succeed very well planted against the back wall
provided the light is not too much obscured by other plants growing in front.
The point of greatest importance to observe in forcing cherry trees is not to
excite them into growth and flower too quickly. It is not safe to commence
before the middle of January, and fire heat must not be applied for three weeks
after this, the grower being satisfied with the heat obtained by closing the house
early. In forcing the cherry one should bear in mind that the trees must not
be made to grow too quickly at any time from the day the house is started
until the fruit is formed. Afterwards more heat may be allowed, especially by
closing early, that the house may be warmed by the sun; the cherry does not
like artificial heat at any time. Still, when the fruits are formed, it is quite safe
to make use of it in dull and cold weather to keep up the necessary temperature.
It is also necessary to have sufficient heat in the pipes to maintain a dry and
buoyant atmosphere while the trees are in bloom; but avoid at that time a
high temperature, and be sure you have a good circulation of air, and an absence
of dampness round the flowers night and day. If you must err at all, err on
the side of a low temperature during the time of flowering rather than a high
one, bearing in mind to have the conditions as similar as possible to those
prevailing out-of-doors when the trees are in bloom, and we know it is then

40 THE FRUIT GARDEN

bitterly cold sometimes. I only mention this to emphasise the fact that in order
to secure a heavy crop of fruit a moderately low temperature, with plenty of air,
must be maintained until the fruit is formed. Should the flowers have but little
pollen, artificial fertilisation must be resorted to when the air of the house is dry,
by drawing a rabbit’s tail over the blossoms. While the trees are in bloom the
temperature should be kept from 48 to 52 degs. Fahrenheit ; after the fruits are
formed it may gradually be raised to 55 degs. until the stoning period is over (ze.
when the stones in the fruits have formed), when it may again be raised to 62 or
63 degs. ; at this it must afterwards be kept, allowing it to rise 6 or 7 degs. with
sun-heat after closing the house. ‘The cherry requires careful watering, dislikes
anything approaching a sodden condition at the roots; at the same time the soil
must never be allowed to approach a dust-dry condition, not even in winter. It
is always safe to give a good watering with clear water at a temperature of 60 degs.
when the house is first closed, and afterwards just as the trees are coming into
bloom, and periodically as often as the grower thinks it necessary, say once a
fortnight. Weak manure water from the cowyard or stableyard is the best,
with an occasional watering with weak guano water ; when the stoning period
is over, a slight application of nitrate of soda is invariably attended with good
results.

DisgasEs.—The only ailments which seriously affect the cherry tree are
gumming and canker. The chief cause of the former, in my opinion, is
grossness of growth, especially in the young stages of the tree’s life, and more
often than not gumming is the precursor of canker, although the latter, no
doubt, is occasionally caused by other means, such as bruising, careless knife-cuts,
and by very severe frosts. When the trees are affected with one or the other
of these ailments there is no cure so far as I know. ‘The most effectual pro-
ceeding is to cut back the branch to a point near the stem not affected, when a
new shoot will usually appear, and so furnish the tree with a substitute in the
shape of a healthier and a better branch. The disease of canker is sometimes
distributed over a great part of the tree, and the latter may be a large and
valuable one, in which case the remedy previously recommended is not appli-
cable. The only thing to do in this case is to cut out the affected parts, and to
wash the wounds scrupulously clean, using for this purpose a strong solution of
soft soap and soda. With careful and timely attention in this way a tree affected
will continue to bear heavy crops of fruit for many years. In the case of a
young tree where canker may follow gumming, and where gumming is usually
caused by luxuriance of growth, the best preventive is to lift and prune
the roots on the first appearance of gross shoots; in all probability the one
root-pruning will prove effectual, as it will not only check the luxuriance of
growth, but will make the tree more fertile, which of itself is a safe antidote to
coarse growth.

Insecr Enzmies.—The black fly is the most serious and stubborn enemy
we have to contend against in the cultivation of the cherry on walls. Where
this has a strong hold on the trees, the first thing to do will be partially to
prune the affected shoots by cutting them back 6 or 7 inches; the insects
shelter themselves snugly beneath the leaves at the extremities of the shoots,

CHERRY TREES GROWING IN POTS OF SIX INCHES DIAMETER.

CHERRY GOVERNOR WOOD GROWING IN A POT.

THE CHERRY 4i

where it is next to impossible to dislodge them. I need scarcely say that the
points of the shoots when cut off should be carefully collected and burnt
without delay. The trees should then be washed late in the evening by means
of a syringe or the garden-engine, using a solution of paraffin, soft soap, and
tobacco juice in the proportion of half-a-pint of paraffin to three gallons of water ;
half-a-pound also of soft soap and half-a-pint of tobacco juice added, the whole to
be mixed together as hot as the hand can bear the water. One application of
this mixture, if thoroughly applied, will rid the trees of the enemy ; the solution
should be washed off early next morning, It is far better to prevent the fly
securing a hold by watching for its first appearance in spring, and then to nip it
in the bud by a timely application of the above remedy.

VARIETIES FOR WaALLs AND CuLTruRE UNpbeR Gtass

Frogmore Early Bigarreau, Bigarreau Heart or White Heart, Bigarreau Monstrueux
de Mezel, Bigarreau Napoléon, Elton Heart, Emperor Francis, Florence, Governor
Wood, May Duke, Late Duke, Guigne ad’ Annonay, Guigne de Louvain, Belle a’ Orléans,
Archduke, Waterloo Heart, The Noble, St. Margaret’s, Knight’s Early Black, Early
Rivers, Black Tartarian, Bigarreau Jaboulay, Bigarreau de Schreken, Géant de Hedel-

Jingen, Mammoth, Bigarreau Heart.
Of Morello Cherries . Flemish ked, Kentish Red.

THE BEST CHERRIES
By GEORGE BUNYARD

In preparing a list of cherries, it has been thought best to make a selection
of the most useful and distinct only, having regard to the duration of the
ripening period, their fertility, and to their use as choice dessert garden fruits
and profitable cherry orchard fruits.

It was considered desirable also to give descriptions of their foliage, which
being taken from young free trees of two and three years old, may differ slightly
from the leafage of established trees, whether in gardens, on walls, or in
orchards, The fruits have been figured from standard orchard trees, and there-
fore are not so large as fruits grown in an orchard house or upon walls, The
form, however, is the same.*

ARCHDUKE.—Fruit, large, shining, deep blood red, rich, juicy, and refreshing ;
foliage, resembles May Duke ; grow¢h, upright, compact and leafy, fruits borne freely in
clusters, good for pot culture ; season, mid-season. The fruit is similar to Royal Duke.
Fertility excellent.

BELLE DE CHolsy.—Frui/, almost transparent, pinkish red, tender, juicy, and
sweet ; stalk, thin ; foliage, deep green, flat and shining, very broad, roundish, heavily
notched ; grow¢h, vigorous, drooping leaves far apart. /er¢d/ity moderate.

BELLE D’ORLEANS.—/ruit, medium size, pink, almost transparent ; flesh, very
tender, sweet, rich, and juicy ; foliage, pale yellowish green, flimsy, oval shape with
lance-like points; g/ands, very large; stipules, clasping the growth ; grow7h, moderate,
leaves drooping, few. A very fine cherry, suitable for walls and pot culture ; season,
very early. Fertzlity good.

42 THE BRUIT GARDEN

BIGARREAU DE MEZEL.—/yruif, deep red, marbled blood red with patches of
orange, flat on one side ; flesh, primrose colour, very firm, rich flavour ; s¢ome, long, flat,
and pointed, adhering to flesh ; fo/zage, deep green, bluntly notched, oval shape ; glands,
one to three; stipules, green, very prominent ; growéh, sturdy and upright ; ferddlity,
excellent; seasov, late. This is one of the large late sorts that sell at such high prices
at the end of the season. :

BLACK EAGLE.—F7uit, deep shining black, rather flat on one side ; flesh, pinkish
red ; stone, round and smooth ; flavour, very rich when fully ripe ; _foddage, deep olive
green, very large, broad, and stout at the base of the shoots, but more tapering and
pointed in the younger growths, deeply notched; s¢a/z, of medium length; glands, large,
red ; growth, vigorous and spreading, forming a large orchard tree, a fine variety for
walls ; fertility, first-rate ; season, rather later than the main crop.

BLack HEART.—Fruéit, rather large, bluntly heart-shaped, often irregular,
colour deep black-red, mottled, skin shining ; flesh, rich and firm ; stone, spoon-shaped ;
stalk, long and thin; foliage, dark green, spoon-shaped; grow/¢h, robust, but rather
spreading. A very fine variety. Season, late mid-season. Fertz/zty first-class.

BLACK TARTARIAN. — Fruit, extra large, shining coal-black, very handsome, and
hangs late on the tree; foliage, deep green, very broad, mid-rib depressed ; szadk,
olive green; stipules, green ; wood, cane-like—this variety has the largest leaves of
any cherry; gvow¢h, very vigorous, stout, rather upright, forms a large, tall orchard
tree ; season, late; fertility, good. It is one of the finest for garden culture in all forms.

CLEVELAND BIGARREAU.—Fruit, brownish red with flushes of deep crimson,
marbled gold and yellow, flat on both sides ; flesh, dull primrose ; s¢oze, flattened and
pointed, very fine flavour ; foliage, pale green, deeply notched ; s¢a/k, long, dark chocolate
colour: glands red and stipules brown, the leaves are wide apart and the shoots pro-
minent ; growth, moderate, spreading ; fertz/ity, excellent ; season, late.

EarLyY RIVERS.—/vuzt, bluntly heart-shaped, deep shining black, flat on one side ;
Jiesh, mulberry black, very juicy and rich, one of the very best cherries for bearing and
quality ; foliage, pale olive, rather thin, broadly oval and tapering toa sharp point; glands,
two or three, reddish brown ; the leaves have long stalks, and are thinly disposed on the
shoots ; growth, weeping, orchard standard trees require to be severely pruned for five
years to keep the lower branches from cattle. It grows very freely and never fails to
bear, and from its early season makes very high prices in the market. It is suitable
for pot culture, growing on walls or in any other form for gardens ; season, very early ;
Jertility, excellent. In use a long time.

ELTON HEART.—Ffvruit, pale yellow with pale rosy blotches and deep red—
sometimes crimson—flushes ; s¢ome, small, somewhat flat and pointed; /esh, firm,
flavour very rich, sweet, and juicy, fruit is often very large ; foliage, pale green, long ;
stipules, greenish white, wood and leaf-stalks nut-brown, midrib pink; growth, very
free, inclined to weep as an orchard tree, valuable for all garden purposes ; seasoz,
early ; fertzlity, excellent.

EARLY LYONS OR BIGARREAU JABOULAY.—Fruit, medium size, a very early
variety, of a purplish red colour when fully ripe ; fo/zage, deep olive, very large, spoon-
shaped on old trees and pointed on younger; s¢a/k, very long, wood brown and
shining ; growth, very sparse, weeping. As the buds do not break freely it is often of
awkward growth; best suited for wall culture.

EMPEROR FRANCIS.—fruit, bright red marbled with white often immense; flesh,
crisp, very juicy and highly flavoured; s¢owe, very small, bluntly pointed ; foliage,
deep olive green, flat, very large, deeply notched, leaf-stalk stout, of medium length ;
stipules, fringed, green ; glands, large, oval ; growh, robust and upright; not yet proved
as an orchard tree, but likely to be useful, invaluable as a garden tree, succeeding in
allforms. Fertzlity good. Season late.

FLEMISH RED.—/ruit, bright shining scarlet, with pale yellow and deep carmine
on the sunny side, slightly flattened on one side, produced in bunches ; flesh, primrose,
almost transparent, crisp, very juicy, with rich acid flavour ; stove, small, often pulling out
with stalk, the best cherry for cooking and preserving ; fo/éage, small, bright green, dis-

“SGHIMUAHD LUFAH ALIHM AO HONFUY V

‘SSVYTD YAANQ TIV¥M F NO NFIUFIUFL NOVT@ AUUTHO

THE CHERRY 43

posed thinly over the shoots ; grow?h, slender. This variety forms a close compact tree
and bears freely ; trees may be planted in orchards 15 feet apart, and are often used for
outside rows to shelter the larger fruited sorts; most beautiful objects when the fruit is
fully ripe. Seasoz late.

FLORENCE HEarT.—Fruit, bright shining red and pale yellow, slightly flat on
one side; flesh, primrose colour, crisp and juicy; stone, small ; foliage, bright green, long
and lance-shaped, acutely pointed, short jointed and leafy ; stipules, prominent, greenish
brown ; grow¢h, strong and upright. As an orchard tree it forms long branches, with
few side shoots. On account of this variety ripening late it often realises very high
prices in the market, but the tree is apt to gum and lose its branches ; on a north wall
the fruit attains great size and keeps late. Season latest. Fertility very good.

_ FROGMORE EARLY BIGARREAU.—Fruzt, orange colour, with reddish net-mark-
ings and a flush of deeper red ; /esh, firm, primrose colour, sweet and rich; stone, spoon-
shaped, indented and lined on one side; foliage, dark green, leathery, broadly oval;
stipules, prominent ; glands, two or three ; growth, free and branching, one of the finest for
orchard and garden culture, bears freely in clusters. Season early. Fertility remarkable.

GEANT DE HEDELFINGEN.—Fruzé, crimson black; flesh, very firm and crisp, of
a blood red colour, very rich flavour; stone, large, oval, often adhering to flesh ; folzage,
pale green, oval-shaped, bluntly serrate ; s¢a/k, very long, wood greenish brown, leaves
drooping ; growth, robust and free ; fertility, moderate ; season, rather late. This grand
black cherry is one of the largest and best. It is worthy of culture in even a limited
collection.

GOVERNOR Woop.—Frwit, pale yellow and soft red, very handsome and large ;
flesh, tender, juicy, sweet, and very pleasant ; foliage, pale green, deeply notched, wide
apart, the terminal leaves are reddish ; stpu/es, brown, leaf-stalk short ; growth, moderate,
a good cherry for garden culture in any form, fruits very freely in clusters. Orchard
trees in some soils are apt to gum; does well in the Midlands. Season early.

_ GUIGNE D’ANNONAY.—Fruit, shining black, round, produced in clusters, medium
size; flesh, charcoal black, flavour very rich, and altogether first-rate; /o/zage, rather
longer and more robust than the white-fleshed Guignes, pale olive green, regularly
pointed and bluntly serrate ; growth, moderate, forms a well-shaped tree, excellent for
garden culture in all forms. This variety bears enormously in clusters, and from its
precocity is most valuable ; it is proving very hardy, and will be a great gain as an early
orchard fruit also. Season earliest.

KENTISH BIGARREAU.—Fruit, dull carmine, shaded and blotched red, orange
and primrose, flat on both sides, when fully ripe it is bronzy red; flesh, deep primrose,
crisp, juicy, and very rich flavour ; stove, heart-shaped, adhering slightly to flesh ; fodzage,
olive green, long, oval, sharply pointed; glands, of medium size; growth, vigorous,
branching, forming a shapely orchard tree. This is one of the best and most profitable
cherries grown, and is the glory of the Kent orchards. It succeeds in all forms as a
garden tree, and is hardy and not so liable to gum as some. Season mid-season.
fertility excellent.

KENTISH RED.—Fruit, bright reddish crimson, produced in bunches; jest,
tender, juicy, and with a distinct flavour, almost transparent ; fo/zage, bright green,
small, and disposed wide apart on the branches, footstalks are stout and long ; growth,
twiggy and weeping. Fertility first-rate. Season late. This is the favourite cherry for
drying, for tarts and for jam. It has a distinct rich flavour, and is quite a sweetmeat.
It makes a good small orchard tree, a pretty pyramid, and a fertile wall tree, fruiting
after the style of the Morello. The Flemish is larger and later and as free-bearing
as the Morello. : .

KNIGHT’s EaRLy BLack.—/vuzi¢, blood-red to black, round, medium size, very
rich flavour, and one of the finest for early gatherings, bears enormously in clusters ;

foliage, medium sized, resembling that of the May Duke ; grow/f, moderate, compact but
weeping. fertzlity excellent. Season early.

LupWwIc’s BIGARREAU.—Fruit, large, bright red all over, slightly mottled; /esh,
firm, very rich, juicy and sweet; sfoze, bluntly spoon - shaped, lined on one side ;

44 THE FRUIT GARDEN

Joliage, pale green, large and thin, deeply notched ; grow7h, free and spreading, forming
a fine orchard tree. Ferti/zty excellent. Season earliest. An excellent fruit, bearing
enormously, and one of the best early white varieties.

May DuKE.—Fruz/, a rich dark claret-red coi .ur; flesh, tender, acid when not
fully ripe, but sweet and juicy when ripe; s¢ove, round and smooth, flattened, parting
freely from the flesh ; folzage, deep green, bluntly oval, very numerous, closely disposed
on stout, woody growths; s¢zpules, green, leaf-stalk short ; s7ow¢h, upright, compact.
Succeeds as an orchard standard, and is one of the most reliable cherries for an early
crop on walls, while its growth makes it very suitable for pot culture. Season early.
Fertility moderate.

MORELLO.—f7?t, large, deep blood-red, almost black when fully ripe ; /esh, reddish
black, juicy, with a refreshing acidity ; stad, long ; foliage, deep green, small, and pointed,
rather thinly disposed on the stems ; growth, weeping ; season, late ; fertility, first-class.
It is usually grown on north walls, but can also be successfully cultivated on orchard
standards and pyramids ; when netted the fruit will hang into October if the autumn is dry.

NAPOLEON BIGARREAU.—Fvuzt, rich carmine red, shining, shaded yellow on
flat side ; flesh, crisp, firm, juicy, and extremely rich and sweet; s¢one, oval ; foliage, olive
green, broadly tapering ; s¢zfi/es, clasping the shoots, wood brownish, speckled, the
terminal leaves are tinged with reddish brown; g/ands, greenish and red ; growth, com-
pact when young, but forming a very large spreading tree when developed. One of
the finest for orchard or garden culture, being hardy and a free-bearer. The fruit ripens
just after the Kent Bigarreau, which it resembles. Seasom late. Fertility excellent.

NOUVELLE ROYALE.—Fruzt, deep red or black red, three to four sided; /fesh,
orange red, rather acid, but juicy, rich, and pleasant, firm, parting from its stone when
fully ripe; foliage, large, like May Duke, deep green and very stout, deeply notched ;
growth, upright, compact, and leafy. A fine garden variety in any form. Seasoz rather
late. Fertility good.

OLD BLack HEART.—F/yruzt, bluntly heart-shaped, of irregular shape and
coloured reddish black, darker when fully ripe, skin shiny ; /esf, rich and refreshing ;
stone, oval; stalk, short ; foliage, pale green, rather thin, leaf-stalk long ; lands, two or
three, prominent ; gvowzh, vigorous, making a large and somewhat spreading tree.
Being very hardy it often escapes frosts at blooming time and crops very freely.
More suited for the orchard than the garden, but succeeds in any form, and is specially
valuable for cultivation. Season early. Ferttlity excellent.

RONALD’Ss LATE DUKE.—Fyruit, very large, bright red, almost transparent ;
Jiesh, pinkish yellow, very tender, juicy, and of rich flavour, a great bearer; foliage,
bright olive-green, broadly oval, shining; s¢7#z/es, fringed, green ; growth, compact and
twiggy, forms a pretty small tree. The fruit, from its lateness, is very valuable, more
suited for garden than orchard culture. Season latest. Ferdzlity excellent.

Royal DUKE.—Fvuzt, bright shining red, almost transparent ; flesh, dull red, flavour
crisp and rich, with refreshing acidity ; s¢ome, smooth, parting from the flesh ; foliage,
broad deep green, stout, and robust; growfh, erect and compact. One of the finest
Duke cherries, and, as it ripens rather late, is very useful. Fertz/ity abundant.

ST. MARGARET’S.—Fruzt, very large, of rich flavour, colour coal black, shining,
the fruit is flattened on two sides ; s/a/k, very long ; folzage, large, dull olive-green,
bluntly notched, edges curving upwards, hoary beneath, young shoots red-brown ;
growth, strong and robust, very useful for late crop on cool walls. Seasoz latest.
fertility good.

THE NOBLE.—Fruzt, of very rich sweet flavour, colour deep crimson to black
crimson ; flesh, firm, red ; foliage, large, long, and deeply-notched ; growzh, robust.
This new cherry is remarkable for its size and texture. The fruits can be kept in good
condition several days after gathering ; grand for orchard and garden culture. Fertility
extraordinary. Season late.

WATERLOO.—fvuit, roundish, colour deep crimson-red, becoming black when
fully ripe, with minute golden dots, flattened on one side ; flesh, sweet and very rich;
stone, roundish, very small and smooth ; foliage, rather pale-green, large and drooping ;

A MORELLO CHERRY TREE ON NORTH WALL

BUSH CHERRY TREES IN THE ROYAL GARDENS, WINDSOR,

THE CRAB 45

It is this latter character that makes it so valuable in orchards, in showery weather the
fruit does not crack when so protected, and it travels all the better when dry ; growth,
rather upright, forms a noble orchard tree, and, from its superior flavour, is valuable
for garden culture. Season, mid-season. Fertility excellent.

OTHER CHERRIES
The following cherries are also good :—

BLack HEART Race.—Bigarreau de Schreken, very large and of fine flavour ;
Bigarreau Noir de Guben, enormous size, but lacking flavour; Bigarreau Noir de
Schmidt, a firm early sort, of rich flavour; Bohemian Black Bigarreau, very large ;
Windsor, a very late American sort of a dull mulberry colour, a great bearer.

Of the soft-fleshed “GuicNnrEs,” Belle de St. Tronc, Duchesse de Palluau, Empress
Lugénie are very similar to those described; Guigne de Winkler is quite distinct, a
small-fruited, long-stalked variety that hangs into September ; Ramon Oliva and Early
Purple Guigne are large fruits, like Morellos in size and colour, but sweet and earlier.

Of the MORELLO CLass :-—Jelle Francoville, a late cooking, red variety ; Belle
de Montreuil and Reine Hortense are intermediate between Dukes*‘and Morellos ;
Olivet, from the Continent, is the earliest cooking cherry; Coe’s Carnation, a late
striped red fruit.

Crrron, THE (see p. 205).

THE CRAB

Besides their use as ornamental flowering trees and shrubs, the crabs have a
further value as decorative trees by reason of their brilliantly coloured fruits,
and the latter are useful for making jelly, compétes, &c. The crab will succeed
in any ordinary garden soil where the apple thrives. ‘The most useful are the
following :—

THE DARTMOUTH.—This American fruit is of large size for a crab. It is most
beautiful, being of a rich violet plum colour, shading to orange. The tree is of very free
growth.

JOHN DoWNIE.—This crab produces its oval-shaped scarlet and yellow fruits as
freely as a gooseberry does. It forms a neat tree. The fruits are about one inch long.

THE ORANGE.—A small round crab of a deep yellow colour, marked with black
dots ; very distinct.

THE SCARLET SIBERIAN is one of the best. The globular, small fruits are pro-
duced on long stalks, and are like a cherry in shape ; commonly known as the cherry
apple. It forms a thin, sparse-growing tree.

THE YELLOW SIBERIAN is similar to the preceding, except that the fruits are of
canary yellow colour.

THE TRANSPARENT bears fruits of large size. They are rich yellow, with a pretty
red flush. The stalks are long and wiry, and when ripe the central portion of the
fruit is semi-transparent (hence its name). It is a favourite with many for dessert. The
tree grows freely, spreading its branches.

The above are the best sorts. Cheal’s Scarlet Siberian (small, very bright-
coloured fruits), the Fairy Crab, Mammoth, and Transcendent are all good
varieties. ‘These crabs form pretty garden trees as pyramids, or bushes on
the Paradise stock.

CHAPTER V

RED AND WHITE CURRANTS

By GEORGE BUNYARD

In order to avoid deep digging about these after they are planted and consequent
disturbance of the roots, the ground they are to occupy should be heavily
manured before the bushes are planted, and the earlier this is done the better
will be the result the first season. They are usually prepared by nurserymen
on a short stem, which prevents the fruit being splashed by soil; newly planted
bushes should be cut back to four buds at the base of the new wood, the top
one always pointing outwards. The new growths which will eventually
develop should be selected to form a cup-shaped base, using a stake if necessary
to train the shoots in the desired form. Any inner shoots not wanted for
forming the basin-shaped foundation can be cut away or shortened to three
buds. This will strengthen the remaining ones and produce vigorous shoots,
which must be again shortened to 6 inches at the end of the season. During
the second year the side shoots should be shortened in July to three buds or
“eyes,” the centres of the bushes being kept open to admit light and air to ripen
the wood. When the required shape and size of bush are obtained, the leading
shoots may be annually cut back to 1 inch in length, and any slender twiggy
shoots can be removed as soon as the fruit is gathered, although the branches
should not be stripped of foliage.

Cutture.—Currants flourish in all soils when freely fed with manure.
This should be lightly turned in about Christmas time, and when frost has
made the surface friable the soil may be levelled down with a coarse rake.
Currants will succeed well in a light soil, and may be grown as basin-shaped
bushes, trained on walls and trellises, or as cordons. In dry seasons copious
waterings with liquid manure will favour the production of large berries, and
where the soil is very dry a mulching of long strawy litter put on in April
will keep it cool and lengthen the season of production. Watering upon this
will keep the trees healthy and render them less liable to the attacks of red
spider.

Pruninc.—In the case of cordon, fan or fancy-trained currant trees, the
pruning is usually done in August ; the leading shoot is left entire, and the side
or lateral shoots are pinched back to three buds. In this way the branches
become masses of fruiting spurs, and will require much thinning as the berries
develop. Standard trees are best grafted on stocks of Ribes aureum. The

branches will require some support as they gain size and are heavily fruited,
46

RED AND WHITE CURRANTS

47

or they may break off. A stout stake 2 feet taller than the tree will enable

the side branches to be looped
up.

Red currants required for
very early picking can be
planted ona wall with a
warm aspect, but they will
need some assistance by sur-
face mulching and syringing,
as such hot situations may
cause red spider. For very
late picking, trained trees
should be planted against north
walls, and the spur system of
pruning followed, otherwise
the mass of foliage in such
a shaded position may pre-
vent proper ripening of the
wood.

White currants are much
appreciated for dessert late in
the season. Where fruit is
required for exhibition the
longest bunches should be
selected, and the clusters be
thinned to develop fine berries.
Red currant bushes in market
gardens are pruned hard, and
are also freely manured. Fruit
pays best when sold early, even
before the whole bunch is
coloured.

PROTECTING BUSH
FRUITS

The question of protect-
ing bush fruit trees from the
ravages of birds and the effects
of frost is an important one
to the gardener, and very often
the quantities of fruit gathered
depend largely upon whether
efficient protection has been
afforded or not. The old-

gu

STANDARD RED CURRANT BusH

Formed by taking a cutting 12 to 18 inches in length, remov-
ing all the buds from the lower 6 inches, inserting this part
in the soil. Secure the leading growth to a stake, pinch the
side shoots to two leaves, the resulting shoots to one leaf,
and continue the practice year by year until the leader has
attained a height of 4 feet; then cut off a few inches in
autumn. In the following spring three of the most pro-
mising shoots are selected to form the head. These are
shortened in autumn to 4 or 6 inches from their bases, two
resulting shoots from each branch are cut back to 6 inches,
forming, in the following year, the tree shown. The prun-
ing consists of cutting back in autumn all side shoots to
within 4 an inch of their bases, or to two buds. The
branches on the left hand are shown pruned, and those on
the right hand detached; the leading shoots are shortened
to 6 inches, if weakly, or to8 or ginches when strong; more
cutting than this is apt to cause the branches to be too
sparely furnished with spurs for bearing, and too weak to
support the weight of fruit. The pinched back growths on
the main stem may remain unti ithe third year, then reduce
them gradually.

fashioned method of throwing fish nets over currants, gooseberries, and straw-

48 THE FRUIT GARDEN

berries is to some extent protective, but it leaves much to be desired. Birds can
easily reach the fruit through the meshes of the net, and the work of gathering
the fruit is made very troublesome. The nets have to be removed and replaced
each time fruit is required, which means a
considerable loss of time, to say nothing of
the damage done to the nets by tearing.

A system of protecting bush fruits im-
measurably superior to the one just mentioned
consists of a permanent wooden framework,
completely encircling the plantation to be
protected, and a covering of close-meshed
wire-netting is then fastened to the wooden
stakes. It is, of course, quite simple to arrange
an opening at each of the corners of the
enclosure to allow of the admittance of
workers, Ordinary fish netting may be made
use of instead of wire-netting, if the latter is
found to be too expensive. Such a covering
as is illustrated protects the plants from frost
in the spring when they are in bloom, and in
the summer from birds when the fruits are
ripe. A man can conveniently make his way
about beneath the net, and fruit-picking can
be accomplished with ease and despatch. In
the case of currants and gooseberries the

SIDE ERANCH erection might remain for many years—as
At base (right hand) spurs, or short stubby long as the fruit trees themselves, in fact—
growths, not to be pinched; above are but with the strawberry this, of course, would
side shoots pinched ; (d) leading growth :
stopped when the bush is being formed not be practicable. Strawberry plants are not
at 9 or 12 inches; if the bush is full retained after they are three years old, and
grown leading shoots are pinched like :
side shoots to about five joints. when the plantation was destroyed the frame-
work and covering would have to be transferred
elsewhere. Supposing fish netting to have been used, this would not bea serious
undertaking. In view of the fact that the strawberry plantation is not in one
place for more than three years, it would be well always to make use of fish netting,
leaving the wire-netting to cover the currants, gooseberries, &c.

THE BLACK CURRANT

This is best planted in a rather damp or shaded portion of the garden ; the
plants suffer, in a dry, hot soil. In order to secure fine, large, juicy berries, the
bushes should always be pruned so as to contain no shoot more than two years
old. Therefore it is better to purchase them with the branches starting from
the base of the plant than on a stem, as with the gooseberry and red and white
currants. Strong, vigorous shoots will then be thrown up from near the soil, so
that the necessary new shoots can be selected and the branches that have fruited

BLACK CURRANTS 49

be cut out. Black currants pay for severe pruning : a greater weight of fine
fruit will be produced than when they are left unpruned ; then they bear a mass
of small berries. The culture is most simple. Feed them each year with the
richest pig or cow manure available (in Kent sprats and fish-heads are often

SIDE BRANCH (RED CURRANT) WINTER
PRUNED

(e) Leading growth shortened to below lateral

S1DE BRANCH (RED CURRANT) SUMMER growth that pushed from upper buds after

PRUNED pinching; (/) side shoots shortened to two

: ; Wea buds ; ta) short side shoot that may be left

(2) Summer growth pinched ; (7) point entire, or shortened to two buds, as indicated
of winter pruning ; (4) spur. by cross line.

used). Dig this manure in about Christmas, and level the soil in March with a
rough rake; keep down weeds. Do not plant less than 8 feet apart if in
the open. Late fruits can be grown on north walls, but the black currant
does not lend itself to cordon-training, the old wood then cannot be removed
annually.

Tue Besr Brack CurRANTS

BALDWIN’s (Carter’s Champion).-—A variety which originated in East Kent, and is
the best for general use. The berries are large and sweet. Carter’s Champion is con-
sidered to be the same.

BoskooP GIANT OR MAMMOTH.—This Dutch variety is a stronger grower than the
others, has large foliage, larger berries and longer bunches, and its vigorous stems seem
to resist the black currant mite better than other sorts. F.C.C. 1902.

BLACK NAPLES OR WHITE BUD (Maple, Green Bud).—A dwarf-growing variety
of great excellence. Other sorts are Lee’s Prolific and Victoria, but they do not differ
materially from the three named.

Tue Besr Rep CurRAnrs

THE ScoTcH RED [oF KENT] (Moore’s Seedling, Champagne Red).—This is probably
Knight’s Early ; has an upright growth. The short bunches are composed of very large
berries, of bright colour, which ripen before any other.

D

50 THE FRUIT GARDEN

New Dutcu RED (Chiswick Red, Defiance).—A very prolific variety, of spreading
habit. The bunches are long, and the fruits of a rich, deep colour.

RaBy CAsTfLe (Late Dutch, Houghton Castle, May’s Victoria, Cherry).—A free
spreading grower, bearing very freely long bunches of small deep crimson berries.

La VERSAILLAISE (Fay’s Prolific, La Fertile, Comet).—This variety has many names.
It is a strong grower, but the shoots are apt to break off at the base. The berries are
extra large and fleshy and very sweet, of a deep red colour. Most valuable when trained
and supported.

PRINCE ALBERT.—This is a sturdy grower. The berries are orange coloured, and
freely produced late in the season. The stems are reddish and the foliage is deeply cut.

Tue Best WHITE CuRRANTS

WHITE DutcH (Grosse Blanche).—Berries medium sized, transparent, of a creamy-
brown colour, with white veins. A good sort, which under liberal culture gives large crops
of well-flavoured fruits. The bunches contain seven to nine berries.

WHITE TRANSPARENT (VERSAILLES).—-Berries paler than the above variety.
Bunches contain eight to nine berries; the largest and best in this section. It is a
free bearer, and a very handsome variety.

SHILLING’s CUT-LEAVED WHITE.—This is a sparse grower but a great cropper, and
the berries are very sweet. Bunches of fruit consist of from four to six berries; very
handsome. There are several other varieties, but those described are the best.

Damson, THE (see p. 160).
Eucenta, THE (see p. 215).

‘SLINUA HSA ONILOALOUd AO AVAL LSP@ AIL

(az1s qoanqou sparyi-om) *AAMUNL NMOUF DIA

FP TK

THE FIG

By OWEN THOMAS

Tue industry of fig culture in Britain may be said to be centred in Worthing.
There are other localities upon the south coast that one would imagine to be
equally well suited for fig culture, but yet the fact remains that the majority of
home-grown green figs sent to Covent Garden Market come from Worthing,
and these are all grown in the open. Those who have never visited the Worth-
ing fig orchards are astonished to learn of the size, age, and vigour this tree
attains there. Even in cottage gardens in the immediate neighbourhood the fig
tree thrives remarkably well. It is in and around the small village of Sompting
that the chief market supply of figs is obtained. The trees are here planted in
groves, irregular now because some have died and been replaced by younger
trees, and many of them are 20 feet high and as much through. They are not
allowed to grow higher than this, otherwise the labour of gathering the fruit
would be increased. On an average the trees are about eighty years old ; some
there are considerably over a hundred years of age, while others are appreciably
less, It is surprising to learn how little attention these fig trees receive beyond
the removal of branches when they are quite close to the ground, and therefore
almost useless and very inconvenient by reason of their preventing access to the
centre of the tree, so essential at the gathering season ; dead or unfruitful wood
also has, of course, to be cut away. They receive practically no manure, yet it
is rarely that a satisfactory crop of fruit is not produced by these remarkable and
aged trees ; some seasons, of course, are more conducive to a full crop than others.
Late spring frosts do considerable damage sometimes when the fruits are quite
small. Only one crop of fruit is obtained each year, and gathering commences
about the second week in August as a rule, and is not really over until the
middle of October, although the fruits gathered then are not so fine as those
picked earlier in the season. The fig gardens at Tarring, near Worthing,
half an acre or so in extent, are extremely quaint and interesting. The central
pathway is bordered on either side with picturesque old trees that have a de-
lightful and unique effect. The branches extend over the path to such an
extent that in some places they almost meet. In the large irregular square beds
formed by the surrounding walks are also fig trees, and many of the specimens
are of great age and vigour. These gardens have a peculiarly interesting history,
as the following extract from an old local book, “Sussex Industries,” will
show :--“ The Tarring Fig Gardens, as a garden, date back to the year 1745.
It is on record that the sainted Bishop of Chichester, Richard de la Wych,

Se

go THE FRUIT GARDEN

grafted fruit trees at Tarring with his own hand, and it is presumed these were
fig trees. The Tarring Fig Gardens can show a plantation of 100 to 200
trees, and 2000 dozen excellent fruits or so are produced annually, besides a
mass of small ones. In summer the garden looks thoroughly un-English.
Dense foliage produces deep shade, which adds to the picturesque effect, giving
fictitious length to the walks and making the half-acre assume the proportions

PORTION OF A BRANCH SHOWING CHARACTERISTIC GROWTHS AND MOpDE
OF BEARING

(7) Three-year-old wood; (s) pinched side shoots of previous summer (each shoot was then
stopped at the fifth leaf), on these the first crop (and only one outdoors) of figs is produced,
ripening outdoors in August or September ; (¢) current year’s shoots, which may be pinched
and retained for another year (if under glass, and forced from February or earlier, will pro-
duce a second crop); (z) previous summer's (two-year-old) continuation of branch bearing
first crop of figs ; (v) side shoots which may either be pinched to form spurs, or allowed to
extend where space admits for furnishing the tree with bearing wood, and on which the
first and only crop of figs outdoors is produced the following season ; (w) extension of
branch growth, which may be trained in full length, if space admits, or be pinched where
space is limited, or when desirable, as commonly is the case, to ensure a fruitful habit and
assure the swelling of the first crop. '

of a forest. ‘The trees are not allowed to grow high, nor are the branches
thinned, the object is to produce a mass of overshadowing foliage. ‘They like
heat but not exposure to the sun. The manure is put on sparingly in spring
and in a fluid state. Of several varieties grown, White Marseilles is the most
valued and luscious. The variety Ischia is said in hot summers to ripen to a
brick-red colour, and is supposed to be identical with the historic red fig which
King James tasted with pleasure in the Dean’s garden at Winchester. Brown
Turkey is also grown. The harvesting or picking of the figs begins early in

‘DNIHIYOM YUFAN ‘ONIVUFL LY SHAUL Dla AU TAOUD ¥

AN AVENUE OF FIG TREES IN A WORTHING GARDEN.

THE FIG 53

August and continues to the end of October. During that time from 30 to 100
dozen are gathered daily and disposed of in Worthing, Brighton, or London.”
Far better prices are now obtained for figs than was the case some years ago.
Whereas then 3d. or 4d. per lb. would have been considered a fair price, the
growers of to-day are content with nothing less than 8d., and more is often
realised. This is a curious and so far as I know an unique circumstance.

With every other market fruit it will be found that an increased demand has
been met with such a largely increased

supply that prices have gone down as

a result. With the fig, however, the f

fact apparently is that the demand has a

of late years considerably increased, but

the supply has not done so proportion-

ately, and prices therefore, instead of

falling, have gone up.

Cutrurat Nores,—As an outdoor “os
crop the fig can be successfully grown
Ta

in many parts of these islands, but its
cultivation out-of-doors has not extended
for certainly the past half century.
Failures in its cultivation, I believe,
are due to a want of knowledge as to
the locality and position in which it
will succeed. That it will succeed
admirably even as a standard or an
espalier on the coast of our southern
counties is beyond a doubt. The fig
is pre-eminently a fruit of the coast-
line, and it is useless to try and grow AN Extension GrowTH (STOPPED), WHETHER
it outside at any great distance inland ee
in consequence of the greater severity

of the weather. That there are such (+) point of stopping at the fifth or sixth joint;

sitions in many parts of Great Britain (y) new shoot, which must be left intact and
po yp trained to continue branch ; (z) short stubby

besides Sussex goes without saying. I side shoot or tte which need not be
; pinched unless making more than two or
may instance the coast of North Wales, three leaves; if there is not room for them,

say from Flint to Bangor. I remember pinch them off altogether while quite small,
also how well the fig was fruited on

outside walls at Bodorgan, Anglesea; the position of the garden was less than
a quarter of a mile from the seashore.

Where grown against a wall a position facing south or south-west should be
given. Ample drainage must be provided for the border, which should not be
more than 24 feet deep, and which at first when the tree is planted should be
of limited extent. The soil in which it is planted should not be very rich. It
is a wise precaution to build a temporary wall (say 4 feet from the wall against
which the tree is planted) as high as the border so as to confine the roots of the
tree into this limited space for a.few years in order to check luxuriance of

54 THE FRUIT GARDEN

growth and to promote early fruitfulness. At the time of planting the border
should be made firm, and in the course of four or five years’ time this temporary
wall may be removed, and the roots given greater space. If the ordinary soil of
the garden is good all the work necessary for extending the border will be
to trench the new part, adding at the same time a liberal sprinkling of quarter-
inch bones and of the other ingredients recommended above. ‘The object of
the cultivator should be to secure short-jointed, well-ripened growth during the
summer, as on the success or failure in accomplishing this depends success or
failure as regards securing a good crop the ensuing season. It is these shoots
which produce the fruit. The current year’s growth will also produce fruit,
but too late to ripen out-of-doors in our climate. Although rich soil is not
recommended for the growth of the fig, when a good crop is secured a mulching
of rich short manure should be placed over the roots, and in hot weather, while
the fruit is swelling, liberal waterings of diluted manure water from the farm-
yard should be given every ten days or a fortnight until the fruit approaches
maturity.
Pruninc.—Atter the fruit is gathered what pruning is necessary should be
. carried out. It will consist in cut-
ting out branches where they are
c C, \p - rf c a thick, leaving only es to
"2 la let, furnish the tree with bearing wood
SS for the next year’s crop. When the

leaves fall in the autumn many half-
EXTENSION GROWTH (PINCHED), LEAFLESS formed fruits will be found on the
current season’s growth; these will
come to nothing, and should be
taken off. If pruning has been
carried out as recommended above there will be little or no winter pruning to
do. Still, the trees must be looked over and the growths .properly regulated
and superfluous shoots cut away. This should be deferred until the end of
March, as the tree being tender cut shoots are more liable to damage by frost.
The fan form of training is the best.

Prorection.—Success or failure depends perhaps more upon the way in
which this work is carried out than any other detail of culture. There are
many different ways in which this can be done; some untie the branches and
bind them round with ropes of hay or straw. The best way, in my opinion, is
to cover the border with a layer of bracken fern or dry leaves one foot deep,
and quite close to the stem, and then to have hurdles of straw or fern long
enough to reach from the border to the ridge of the wall, and say four feet
wide. ‘These can be made to fit tightly together and be an effective protection
against the most severe frost. They can easily be removed in warm and bright
weather to the great advantage of the trees, and as easily returned on frosty
nights.

Currure unpER Grass.—There are two well-known methods of growing
this fruit under glass, one by planting the trees out in prepared borders, allowing
the branches to extend to almost any limit which the grower may be able to

(a) Point of stopping ; (4) extension of shoot after
pinching ; (c) embryonic figs.

THE FIG e6

command, and the other’ is by growing them in pots or in tubs. The latter
system is described on page 66. The fig tree is a strong grower, and will
succeed in any form of house as long as there is room for expansion, but a
lean-to structure with a long and high pitched roof, or a span-roofed house,
suits it best. I would limit the width of the border for the first year to 2 feet.
As is well known, it is almost impossible to ripen properly very strong growth,
therefore the grower should guard against conditions that in any way favour
this. If the house is a good-sized lean-to, I would suggest that it be planted
with three trees—one in the middle and one at each end. One tree will soon
fill the house, but if two varieties are wanted I would plant Brown Turkey and
White Marseilles at either end, and another Brown Turkey in the middle, this
to be taken out as soon as the end trees reach the middle. The border must be

BRANCH SHOWING WINTER PRUNING

(d) Extremity shoots having borne fruit are cut away; (e) successional shoots for future
bearing; (/) points where useless wood has been cut out in favour of promising
shoots, the object being to keep the tree well furnished, but not crowded with bearing
wood, only attainable by securing successional growths.

added to little by little every year, but the fact must always be borne in mind
that rather a restricted root area is best for the fig. Ido not know any fruit
tree which forms surface roots in greater abundance in so short a time than the
fig, so after the fruit is gathered top-dress with deer manure and loam in equal
proportions. In selecting the trees for planting care must be taken to choose
those only which have a clear stem of at least 2 feet from the ground. This
is in order not to be troubled with suckers from the base, to which the fig is
very subject. When these appear they should be rigorously cut away close to
the roots.

Traininc.—There are two ways of training the fig when planted out.
One is to allow it to cover the whole trellis (which should be 2 feet from the
glass), and the other is by confining the growths to single cordons under the
rafters, with side shoots, in the same manner as vines are grown, only that the
shoots are tied rather more closely to the rafters. ‘Thissystem of training answers
well, admitting as it does a certain amount of light and sun heat among the

56 THE FRUIT GARDEN

fruit and branches, at the same time securing the perfect ripening of the wood
for future crops. Covering the roof with bearing wood also answers excellently,
but I do not think the quality of the fruit is so good as when rafter training
is adopted. ‘The fig bears more than one crop in the course of the year, some-
times even three. The first crop is produced on the shoots of the past year’s
growth, and it is the crop which requires by far the most skill to produce. Its
success or failure depends almost entirely upon the condition of the preceding
year’s growth. Should this be soft, green, and immature, the prospect of a first
crop worth having is mi/. The second crop, which is produced on the shoots
of the current year’s growth is, gene-
rally speaking, a full crop, and easily
produced. The third crop is produced
on the lateral growths of the shoots
which produced the second crop, and
should never be taken unless under very
exceptional circumstances, as the fruit is
small and seldom appreciated. There-
fore I would. advise that this crop be
sacrificed by plucking the fruit as soon
as it is perceived, thereby husbanding
the strength of the tree for next year.
There are two ways of managing the
summer growth of the fig, one is by
stopping the shoots at the sixth or
seventh leaf, and the other by allowing
the shoot to grow to its full length.
I have practised them both for many
BRANCH OF Fic TREE years, and one system answers as well

(g) Last year’s wood; (h) first crop of figs ripe as the other:
(deagiiet to September plait (7) can THINNING THE FRuir.—The fig

ee eee worthless GUtdbors, and sets its fruit, as a rule, most freely. I
should be removed, but ripening in a forcing
house ; (2) embryonic figs, first and only crop can safely say that to find a really grand

generally outdoors the following year. dish of figs at an exhibition is the ex-
ception, and I believe that the chief
reason for this is overcropping. The fig stands forcing as well or better than
any of our fruit trees. It can be exposed to greater heat, both artificial and
natural, than any other hard-wooded fruit, excepting perhaps the vine, and there
is no crop which can be produced and matured in the winter months in so little
time, for by starting a house towards the end of November ripe figs can be had
at the end of March or the first week in April.

VENTILATION, especially in early spring, must have the cultivator’s thought-
ful care. In the case of the first crop—expected to be ripe at the end of
March—no front air should be given, except the weather should be exception-
ally hot towards the end of the month, as it sometimes is, when a little may
be admitted in the middle of the day for a short time. The temperature of
the house at this time of the year can easily be regulated by the top ventilators

THE FIG 57

alone. More air should be admitted as the fruit shows signs of ripening, but
the fruit is larger and of better quality in rather a close and moist atmosphere
than in a dry one.

FeERrTILIsaTion.—It is not easy to say the actual time that fertilisation takes
place, but, generally speaking, after the young fruit makes its appearance it
swells freely and without interruption until it attains about the size of a walnut.
It then appears to remain at a standstill for a fortnight to three weeks ; during
this time the temperature of the house should be regular and not high, and the
atmosphere should also be drier. A sure indication that fertility has taken
place is the continued growth of the fruit, and another, also always apparent
more or less at this time, is given by the tree casting off most of the barren
fruit. The figs will afterwards swell rapidly, and generous treatment should
be given in the way of warmth, syringing, and watering.

Tue Seconp Crop.—When the first crop has been gathered all weak
shoots that can be spared must be cut out, leaving only sufficient of the best
shoots of the current year’s growth to produce the next crop. These branches
should be regulated and tied down, and the border manured. Afterwards give
plenty of water at the root, as well as copious syringings morning and after-
noon, closing with a good heat ; the temperature with sun-heat may rise to 80
or 85 degs. After the second crop is gathered the same routine must be
observed in thinning out weak growths as recommended after the first crop.
These two prunings are all that are needed, excepting that in winter, when
tying the branches to the trellis, it may be found necessary to cut a few
more out,

THE BEST VARIETIES
By GEORGE BUNYARD

There are many varieties of figs; but it will be best to restrict our list to
those which bear good crops and require no special treatment. The foliage
varies so much that only the most distinct is noted :—

BLAck IscHIA.—Fruz¢, very large, purplish black. Good for outside culture.

BRUNSWICK.—A very free grower, old trees bear abundantly, useless for cul-
ture under glass. The fruits are immense, and of a dull chocolate colour, overlaid
with green veins, and dotted with golden specks. Foliage very much divided. Flavour
good.

BOURJASOTTE GRISE.—Gyvowd¢h, robust, a regular and constant bearer. The fruit
is chocolate colour, and of the finest flavour, perhaps the richest of all, suitable only
for culture under glass, either planted out or in pots.

BROWN TURKEY —Gyvowth, moderate, a very hardy and free bearer which succeeds
in all forms, and is the most reliable fig grown. The fruit is blackish when ripe, with
green veins, and of rich flavour.

MALTA.—In all respects like Brown Turkey, except in the shape of the fruits, which
are shorter and of peg-top shape ; flavour good.

Monaco BIANCA.—A very good early variety for pot culture, flesh deep red, of
luscious flavour, and very juicy.

58 THE FRUIT GARDEN

NEGRO LarGo.—A very fine large fruit. The first crop of fruits is apt to drop,
but the second is very abundant. Co/our, shining deep chocolate black ; favour, very
tich ; not suitable for outside culture ; fo/éage, very large.

OSBORN’S PROLIFIC.—This may be described as a short jointed, free-bearing variety
of the Brown Turkey, valuable for pot culture, and hardy outside, fruit of very good
flavour, leaves deeply lobed.

RECULER, VIOLETTE DE BORDEAUX, AND NAGRONNE.—Neat growing sorts that
bear very freely ; they appear to be alike. ywz¢, small, deep violet black, often with a
white bloom like a plum; favour, sweet and pleasant ; fo/dage, small, five-lobed.

ST. JOHN’s OR PINGO DE MEL.—Grvow/¢h, very robust ; fodzage, largeand stout. These
appear identical, are remarkable for their free-cropping qualities, and force well. The
fruit is of a pale olive green colour, the skin thin, and the flesh nearly white, melting,
very sweet, tender and juicy ; the second crop is freely produced. Very suitable for
culture under glass.

VIOLETTE SEPOR.—Grow¢h, moderate ;_/vuz¢, reddish brown, flesh dull salmon red,
and of delicate flavour. A valuable free-bearing sort, suitable for pot culture and forcing.

WHITE ISCHIA OR SINGLETON.—Neat twiggy grower, foliage much divided ; fruits
very small, greenish white, with orange tinge when fully ripe ; then they are delicious.
A very free bearer which under glass produces three crops a year ; not hardy.

WHITE MARSEILLES.—Grow/h, strong and vigorous ; foliage, three-lobed and large ;
a free-bearing, very early sort, useful for early forcing ; /rwz¢, pale green, the flesh white
and translucent, very juicy, melting, and deliciously sweet. Valuable for outside and
inside culture.

Other good varieties are: D’Agen, a large green late fig ; Gourand Rouge, reddish
brown fruits; Madeline or Angeligue, resembling White Marseilles; Nedzan, very
large late green. All these are suitable only for culture under glass, except Madeline,
which does well outside also.

CHAPTER VII

FRUIT TREES IN POTS

By JAMES HUDSON

In advocating the culture of fruit trees in pots, it must not be supposed that
this mode of treatment is intended to supersede planted out trees, whether
under glass or in the open air. It is rather an addition to the older and more
general system, and by its means very early crops of fruit can be more easily
secured—such, for instance, as figs, nectarines, peaches, cherries, and plums ;
the same structure will permit of two and even three crops being produced
within it in twelve months. Again, under pot culture the finest dessert
plums are much more satisfactory. The latest peaches and nectarines, if
not under the most favourable conditions in the open air, are of much better
flavour when grown in pots and ripened under glass. To the connoisseur of
dessert fruits, Cox’s Orange Pippin, or Ribston Pippin apples, for instance,
from pot trees, are of superior finish and the finest flavour. In some districts
the culture of the best dessert cherries on walls or as bushes is practically a
failure. If grown in pots in an absolutely cold house it is astonishing what
crops may be secured. It is often said, and with much truth, that it takes
years to convert a Britisher to anything really novel and distinct, and the
culture of fruit trees in pots is a case in point. If any one requires an object
lesson in this direction, a visit should be paid to nurseries where this mode
of fruit culture is practised. It is for the private garden, either large or
small, rather than for the large fruit-growing establishments which supply
our markets, that pot culture is most to be commended. Quality in the
former case should predominate rather than quantity, but it does not so often
do so in the latter instance. Again, those who prefer to grow their own fruits,
rather than purchase them, can by pot culture of the trees make the most
of a small space. Beyond doubt, the pot culture of fruit trees in private
gardens has not been demonstrated in the most successful manner in many
instances, And why not? ‘To some extent it is easy to explain this. One
cannot hope to have pot fruit trees grown in the best possible manner
if shaded by other trees, such, for instance, as fruit trees trained on the
roof. It is not reasonable to suppose that success can be achieved in this way.
Light is absolutely an essential factor in successful fruit culture, therefore none
the less so for pot-grown trees. For instance, if the roof of any house is
covered with trained trees, or with vines, it is useless to think of growing pot
trees in that house. On the other hand, if the back wall only of any lean-to

or three-quarter-span house is covered with trained trees, then the front may
59

60 THE FRUIT GARDEN

be filled with one or more rows of trees in pots, according to the space avail-
able, but they must not be so tall as to shade the trained trees behind. Span-
roofed houses are, however, the best for pot-grown trees. To grow pot trees
upon stages is not commendable ; it can be done, and successfully, but much
trouble is occasioned both as regards watering, and in the pruning, &c., of the
trees. To mix pot fruit trees, when in flower, with other flowering or foliage
plants is one way of courting failure. I do not mean by this that no other
plants than the fruit trees should be grown in the same house, but in any case
let the fruit trees first be considered, and everything else be secondary to them,
e.g. temperatures and ventilation, “There is one very distinct, and in many ways
novel, use to which pot fruit trees may be put. It is as decorative plants with
the ripe fruits upon them. This form of decoration affords a welcome change
from the constant use of flowers and foliage plants.

Tue Besr Houses.—The most convenient houses, and also the best for
the trees, are span-roofed ones; these afford a maximum of light and the best
ventilation. A useful size is that of about 18 feet wide, with a central walk
(strawberries in pots can be grown on shelves above the walk). This house
may be 5 feet high at the sides, and 10 feet high at the apex of the roof. For
some purposes, and for larger trees, it is better in many respects to arrange for
houses of greater width and two walks—say, 24 feet wide, 6 feet high at the
sides, and 12 feet to the roof centre. The length can be regulated as may be
necessary, a very convenient length being 30 feet for one division. A large house
without a division is not advisable in private gardens, as a different temperature
in each is often desirable. In the smaller house the pipes can be arranged at
the sides, whereas in the larger it is better to provide for at least two pipes around
the central bed. No staging is necessary ; if some trees need raising it can be
done with inverted flower-pots. All the rain water possible should be conserved
in tanks, the best position for which is under the beds upon which the trees
stand. One standard size of roof glass should always be used—say, 15 inches
by 20 inches—and for the sides above the ventilators only 21-inch squares, and
of good quality. The top ventilation should be by means of rising lights,
the side and end ventilation by means of wooden shutters. ‘These side ven-
tilators should always be hung at the bottom rather than at the top. This is
the method adopted in nurseries and in the Gunnersbury Gardens, and is
found to answer well; it prevents cold currents of air from rushing in during
rough weather in the spring. “These houses need not be of elaborate con-
struction, nor are they costly. A great saving is effected in brickwork, but
little being required in their construction. For retarding fruit so as to extend
the season, a small north house will be found very useful. Under the pot
system of culture it is always possible to keep the trees close together until after
flowering, but as soon as growth commences they are best placed wider apart.
Thus trees sufficient for two houses may be kept in one division until the
embryo fruits are formed, thereby effecting an economy in both space and fuel.

SuccessionaL Crops.—These can be obtained in various ways when all the
trees are in pots. For instance, if early forcing is essential, early fruits of
nectarines, peaches, and plums may be gathered, and the trees be well hardened

‘SlOd NI SHINL ATdd Pr ANF WATdI

SPECIMEN PEACH TREE IN POT.

FRUIT TREES [N POTS 61

to withstand exposure outside by the end of June. ‘These trees, by a judicious
choice of varieties, would have yielded fruits from early in May to the third
week in June, and then a week or so is left for the free use of the syringe
and full ventilation. Melons, if sown a month previously and potted in 6-inch
pots, would by then be ready to forma successional crop. “They should be planted
out the first week in July upon hot beds made upon the floor of the house. By
the end of September all the melons will be cut, and then the house is free once
more, say for chrysanthemums or other autumn flowers, up to the last week in
November. Cleansing operations must then commence preparatory to starting
the pot trees on, say, December 1, or between that date and the middle of the
month. If autumn fruits are in great request late fig trees in pots can follow
the melons by thinning them out from other houses. Or late pot trees of plums,
pears, and apples might succeed the melons: tomatoes, if preferred, could easily
be planted instead of melons. One division of the house should, if possible, be
at liberty by the end of October asa storehouse for all trees that are to be forced.
The other division that has been used for ripening the latest peaches and
nectarines would answer for this purpose. Where the earliest fruit crop is pro-
vided by cherries in pots, then an excellent succession is found in late plums in
pots (dessert varieties only); these will have flowered, and their fruits have set
under an improvised shelter or another house. In order to make the best
use of orchard houses devoted to the culture of trees in pots, a selection of
various fruits is most desirable, so as to cover as long a season as possible.
CuttivaTion—Cuoice oF TREEs.—The best time to commence the culture
of fruit trees in pots is in the autumn; then the wood is well ripened and all
active growth has ceased. ‘Trees two or three years old, established in pots, are
the best. These should be bristling with spurry shoots and fruit-buds. To
grow fruit trees in the open ground and sell them after one year’s pot culture
is not, in the case of nectarines or of peaches, a safe plan to adopt. It may
answer for plums or cherries, pears or apples, but even then the trees are not so
satisfactory as those which have been in pots for two seasons. ‘I’o attempt to
obtain fruit from trees lifted from the open ground in the previous autumn is
absurd. Asa rule, the size of pots in which the trees are grown by the trade
varies but little, those of 9, 10, and 11 inches diameter being generally used.
Porrinc.—If early forcing is contemplated, the trees should be repotted at
the beginning of October. ‘The later trees ought to be potted by the end of
October, if possible, otherwise the heavy autumnal rains will render the work
inconvenient. Some misapprehension still exists in respect to the annual
potting of fruit trees; some hold the idea that this is not essential. It must
not be assumed that young trees just received from the nursery, even if looking
ever so well, do not require repotting. Without exception it may be con-
sidered that for all practical purposes the soil in the pots is greatly exhausted
after one season’s growth, and the available food assimilated by the plants
during that period. ‘True, artificial manures can be given to supply the de-
ficiency, but these, if used to excess, are worse than useless; I do not by any
means condemn their use, but they should be used judiciously. I consider it
is far better to repot annually. It is our practice to do so, and some nursery-

62 THE FRUIT GARDEN

men make it an invariable rule. I do not say that failure would ensue the
first season afterwards if the trees were not repotted, but in the succeeding
years there would be great risk incurred, even if artificial manures were used.
What should be aimed at is the regular production, year by year, of fibrous
roots, rather than those of stouter growth, and this can best be secured by the
annual system of repotting. At the annual repotting no plant is put into
a larger pot without the mass of soil and roots being first reduced ; in fact,
it is necessary to exercise great care in the matter of using larger pots. As a
rule, we give a larger pot to, say, one plant in twelve, and in every instance it
depends upon the vigour of the plant. On the other hand, if a plant shows
symptoms of weakness, a smaller pot is used. “The reduction of the soil and
roots should not be done in a half-hearted manner ; if it is decided to replace
the plant in a pot of the same size, remove sufficient to allow of the use of a
good deal of fresh soil, both around the sides, at the bottom, and upon the sur-
face. Asa guide in this work of reducing the root mass, at least sufficient room
should be allowed for the hands to be passed freely around between the pot and
the former when reduced. A tool with two short teeth is useful for this work.
A sharp knife should be used to prune the largest roots. Two or three sizes of
soil rammers are required, so as to make the soil as firm as possible ; by potting
firmly the formation of fibrous roots is encouraged. ‘The results of this will be
seen the following season, both in the growthand in the rootstoo. In finishing
off at the surface take care to leave space to hold water, say 1 inch deep. If
the tree roots are at all dry at the time of potting, they must be well soaked in
a tub of water. Neglect this, let the roots becomestill drier, and imperfect bud
development and bud-dropping will ensue.

‘Tor-Dressinc.—T op-dressing with good soil affords great assistance to the
trees during active growth; this work we like to get done when the fruits are
fast developing, say when the size of nuts. It will soon be noticed afterwards
that the roots are permeating the new soil. In applying this top-dressing,
room is left for watering around the stem; the fresh soil should be built up
above the rim of the pot, very firmly, with the hands alone. The surface soil,
before the top-dressing is applied, should be lightly disturbed with a sharp-
pointed stick. A top-dressing is of great advantage to all fruit trees in pots,
in developing both fruits and growth for the ensuing season.

So1t.—The soil that we use at Gunnersbury is composed of two sorts of
loam (loam, it is well known, varies considerably ; in some districts, no doubt,
it would not be necessary to use other than the local soil), We make use of
the Banstead loam, which toa certain extent is calcareous, and mix with it a local
soil that contains some iron. ‘These two make a good mixture ; the former
by itself would be too heavy, the latter being tougher in texture remedies this.
These are used in about equal proportions. To the loam we add (at the rate
of about one to eight) decomposed stable manure, not old mushroom bed soil.
No sand is used, but old mortar rubble well broken up takes its place, and in
addition this affords, through the lime it contains, a food essential to the develop-
ment of all stone fruits. In artificial manures we find this in the phosphates
therein employed. For cherries only we add a sma/l proportion of artificial

DADE? CIPEDDIF me

RPIVEeD e

PEACH THOMAS RIVERS (ONE OF THE BEST OF RECENTLY

INTRODUCED VARIETIES).

FRUIT TREES IN POTS 63

manure with the soil, the analysis of which reads as follows: nitrogen, 40 to 50
per cent. ; ammonia, 5 to 6 per cent.; bones and guano phosphates, 32 to 37
per cent., of which 8 to 12 per cent. is soluble ; potash, 2 to 3 percent. This
manure is added to afford immediate aid to the development of the stones,
which, in the case of the cherry, takes place directly after the embryo fruits are
formed. No stone fruit, I think, passes through the stoning process so rapidly
as the cherry. This compost is turned a few times, and afterwards protected
from rain, unless it is very dry when mixed. The soil should never be so wet
as to cause it to adhere to the hands when potting. Above the drainage we
place a handful of half-inch bones and horn shavings, just as these are used in
vine borders.

Pors.—Strong, well-made pots are most desirable ; weakly ones, or those
not well baked, will sometimes crack during potting; and, besides, the advan-
tage of a strong pot is very obvious. If the pots are new, let them be well
soaked in water previous to use; if dirty, then thoroughly cleanse them, and
let them have at least twenty-four hours’ exposure before being again used.
As with the pots, sq also with the crocks, wash them well; it is easily done.
If broken pots are scarce (they are not often so), then crushed clinkers form a
very good substitute to place in the bottom for drainage. We only crock the
pots to a moderate extent, space is too valuable for much drainage. Every pot
should be provided with side as well as bottom holes for the exit of water.

WateERING, Erc.—After potting water the plants well, and occasionally
afterwards, according to the weather. Trees potted early in October require
somewhat careful watching if the weather is fine and dry. When warm and
sunny use the syringe, in order to prevent the wood from shrivelling, which
ought not to take place in the slightest degree. I have known this to occur
and the trees to suffer in consequence during the ensuing season. ‘T'rees potted
early will still retain a fair portion of foliage, thus enforcing the need of syringing.
Early in November trees intended for forcing should all be housed, not, because
they are tender, but in order to prevent the soil becoming too wet. Even
then, if fine and dry, the syringe may still be used; after forcing has com-
menced, little water will be required at the roots until the buds are swelling.
What has to be guarded against is actual dryness at the roots. ‘Trees not
forced at all can be left outside all the winter; the pots should be protected
from frost, however, by a covering of stable litter, the plants standing close
together, and either upon boards or bricks, so that during heavy rainfall the
water can pass away freely. They will not require any more attention until
the buds are upon the point of expanding in the spring (unless it is to guard
against the depredations of birds). The peach and nectarine trees are then
placed in a cool house for flowering, and afterwards moved into other houses
as opportunity occurs. The plums, pears, and apples with us remain outside
under a temporary shelter, just sufficient to keep off frost and wet. ‘The
forced trees do not, as stated above, need much water for some time. Their
demands will, however, increase as growth progresses. The secret of success
lies in avoiding the two extremes of drought and excess of moisture. When
the fruits are swelling quickly and wood growth is active, the trees will require

64 THE FRUIT GARDEN

careful attention. If the weather is fine and warm, watering is a matter
of daily importance; the trees will require water frequently twice in the day
when the fruits are almost fully grown. Rain water is preferable both for
watering and syringing.

Liguip anp OrHer Manures.—As soon as the fruits of nectarines,
peaches, and plums are the size of a walnut a stimulant may be given, but only
moderately (more harm is ‘often done than can be afterwards rectified by an
excessive use of either an artificial or a natural manure). For the first month
one application in fourteen days is ample ; after that, it may be given once every
week. An artificial manure should be given alternately with liquid manure.
The former should be one of proved efficacy ; there are now so many on the
market—some good and reliable, while others appear, to say the least, to be
harmless. I prefer to use those with which the analysis is fairly given, as
it should be. Without one has an analysis of the manure used, it is hardly
possible to know which of the many will be most suitable in any given case.
A pinch of artificial manure is enough to give to a plant in a 10-inch pot,
while for a 12-inch pot, that taken up by the thumb and two fingers is ample
(a 12-inch pot holds about twice as much soil as a 10-inch pot). In any case
I prefer a finely-ground artificial manure, as it is more readily dissolved in the
soil. Bone meal is not, of course, an artificial manure in the correct sense of
the term ; this may be used rather more freely than any other artificial com-
pound, and frequently it will provide all that is needed. For a liquid manure
I prefer that extracted from horse droppings, to which is added a small per-
centage of soot by placing the latter in a bag, and the bag into the manure tub,
there to remain. If worms are at all troublesome, lime water will frequently
dislodge them ; at the same time this is beneficial to the plants.

Forcinc, TEMPERATURE, Erc.—I am decidedly of opinion that the night
temperatures in houses containing pot trees of nectarines, peaches, and plums
are too high; this is especially before the period of stoning, In many
cases a night temperature of 5 degs. less would give better results. If the ther-
mometer at the break of day registers 40 degs. when the trees are in flower, no
harm will be done, nor even if it is 5 degs. less in cold weather. It is well known
that in the native habitats of these fruit trees, a slight frost frequently occurs
when they are in flower, and this may also happen in this country without
harm being done. I am inclined to think that the dropping of the flower buds
is occasioned, partially, by too high a temperature at night. If a little time
is lost, it can afterwards be made up to some extent a few weeks before the
ripening of the fruits by earlier closing when the weather is favourable.
Damping the floor between the trees is done freely through a rose fixed upon the
spout of a water-can. In dull weather this is sufficient, especially when there
is no heat in the pipes. When artificial heat is used a slight syringing just
before nightfall will be a safeguard against too dry an atmosphere during the
long nights. When the fruits are formed and are developing, the syringe is used
freely except when the weather is damp, dull, and mild. ‘Too much moisture
then will encourage leaf rather than fruit growth. The Cardinal Nectarine is
apt to crack when finally swelling if syringed too freely in dull weather ; the

FRUIT TREES IN POTS 65

remedy is obvious. Peach trees at all times need a drier atmosphere towards
nightfall than do nectarines or plums, because moisture is retained by their
woolly skins much more than by the smooth surfaces of the nectarine and plum.
After all the fruits are gathered, it is not possible to use the syringe too freely,
especially if trees are infested with injurious insects.

THe TREES AFTER Forcinc.—As soon as the foliage has been hardened by
means of a lower temperature, the trees are placed outside, plunged to the rims
of the pots in the garden border, with two bricks under each pot, and a few
cinder ashes around the drainage holes to keep out worms. ‘Two feet space
between the pots is allowed ; a little more room should be provided if necessary
to enable the watering to be properly attended to. Until the end of September
the hose is used freely, but not strongly. This will assist in keeping the foliage
fresh and clean. When the trees are lifted for potting it will be frequently
noticed that the roots have grown through the holes in the pots.

Insecr Prsts.—Pot fruit trees do not suffer so much from the attacks of
insects as do trained trees. Both the upper and lower surfaces of the leaves of the
pot trees can be reached more readily with the syringe. ‘This is the chief means
employed to keep down the red spider pest. ‘To destroy aphides we find nothing
equal to the XL-All vaporizer. This same remedy will also kill grubs upon
the plums, cherries, pears, or apples, so that hand-picking may be com-
pletely dispensed with so far as pot trees are concerned. Scale does not cause
any trouble, nor does the mealy bug. We always use XL-All immediately a
house is closed for forcing, and again, if necessary, when the buds are about
to expand, and later as is required. “Thrips are also destroyed by the same
remedy.

CankErR.—I think pot-grown trees are almost immune from canker (and, in
fact, from other diseases also). It occasionally makes its appearance upon the
cherries, but very rarely. The freedom from canker points very clearly, in my
opinion, to the good effects of the annual repotting. More often than not,
I consider this disease is the outcome of a too luxuriant growth, and the too free
use of the pruning knife in consequence. Take cherries, for instance ; where
the choice varieties fail in the open or upon walls, I unhesitatingly recommend
pot culture, even if carried on under a netting screen only.

Pruninc.—If late growths are seen that will have no chance of ripening,
we cut them off when repotting, or in the case of forced trees, when taking
them under glass, A slight pruning, merely removing shoots that are not
required, and the shortening of others, is attended to at the time of starting
the forced trees. In the case of late autumn fruiters, when these are housed
in the spring, most of the pruning is done after the fruits are formed, and when
they are seen to be growing freely. This pruning takes the place of dis-
budding as usually practised with trained trees. By this means, and by cutting
back every shoot to the wood-bud next above the fruit, or to a promising young
growth, the trees are easily kept within bounds. When the shoots: of the
current year are of sufficient length they are stopped, and again, later on, at a
few leaves distant if necessary. Great care is taken in pruning not to leave any

wood so that it may afterwards die back. We cut close to the growing shoots,
E

66 THE FRUIT GARDEN

and the cuts in nearly every case heal over. Occasionally, some regulation of
the shoots is necessary ; this can be done by tying. A stake to a tree will, at
times, be an assistance in keeping it erect ; again, a slender stick only will be
needed to keep the leader straight. Lateral shoots are not encouraged except
to replace any failures, or when a tree is being rapidly developed.

CropPinc, THINNING THE FRurr.—The number of fruits to be borne by
the tree will depend upon its vigour, its size, and the size of the pot. Asa rule
forced trees ought not to ripen quite so many fruits as those not forced. ‘Trees
in 12-inch pots will carry from twelve to fifteen fruits easily. Those in
10-inch pots may bear six to eight fruits. Larger trees, standards with bushy
heads, in 13 or 14-inch pots, will ripen from fifteen to twenty fruits. A tree that
has borne a heavy crop for two or three consecutive seasons should havea rest by
being allowed to mature a light crop only. It is a good plan to label each tree
with the number of fruits it last produced as a future guide and for comparison.
We do not thin the fruits too freely at first, for the simple reason that we dread
the London fogs; these often do the thinning for us, and far too freely. The
final thinning is done when the stone is hardening, and when it is clearly seen
by the character of the fruits that they are fairly safe. As the fruits are seen to
change colour they are exposed as much as possible to the light, but not until
the first fruits are ripe do we alter the treatment as regards ventilation ; then the
house is kept slightly cooler and the atmosphere more buoyant by the ventilation
being continued day and night. For gathering the fruits a pair of strong vine
scissors is much better than performing this operation (with force in some
instances) by the hand only. Take Early Rivers Nectarine, for instance. ‘The
base of this variety often grows back upon the wood, and the slightest twist
when ripe will cause a bruise. The assistance of the scissors, so as to cut off
the fruit with its stalk, will avoid this. With a little practice this method will
recommend itself.

Lonceviry OF THE TREEs.—The question is often asked, “Do not pot
fruit trees soon die, or soon become practically useless?”? The answer to these
inquiries is, “Not at all; in fact, just the contrary!” Confirmation of this
can readily be obtained at Sawbridgeworth, where for more than a quarter of a
century some of the trees have been exclusively grown in pots. (See illustra-
tion.) Pot culture, rather than leading to premature decay, has generally quite
the opposite effect.

The culture that has thus far been detailed will apply to nectarines, peaches,
cherries, plums, pears, and apples. In the case of figs and the Citrus family, as
represented by the orange, lemon, citron, &c., somewhat different treatment is
necessary.

Fic Currure 1n Pots.—lIt is sometimes remarked that fig trees, particularly
some varieties, have a tendency to bear only partial crops of fruit. Grow them
in pots, however, and any such illusion will be quickly dispelled. We do not
repot these every season, but, as a rule, carefully remove the surface soil one
season and repot the next. The earliest forced trees are potted in August, and
the late ones in November, or as soon as they have ceased to fruit, which in the
case of some is not until about Christmas. None of these, however, is left

NECTARINE VICTORIA (ONE OF THE BEST LATE
VARIETIES) AS A POT TREE.

POT PEACH TREE (DR. HOGG) IN FLOWER.

FRUIT TREES IN POTS 67

outside during the winter, but stored in a dry, airy house thoroughly to ripen
the wood. The early trees are started on November 1; these produce ripe
fruits from the 1st March onwards, sometimes a week earlier. The latest trees,
on the other hand, are retarded as much as possible to prolong the season ; in
the spring, about the end of February, these are laid down out of doors in the
most sheltered spot available, remaining there until the middle of April, when
they are placed upright and watered, at first quite sparingly. As space is avail-
able they are brought under glass again, so that by the middle of May all are
together under cover. The soil is slightly varied for figs, less manure being
used, but in its place more lime rubble is added. It is for first and second early
crops and for late crops that the pot culture of figs is recommended, Figs in
pots succeed better if the pots are partially plunged. ‘This practice minimises
the work of watering, besides which the plunging material affords a rooting
medium that is readily taken advantage of. The pot culture of figs is com-
mendable because so many more varieties can then be grown than when the
trees are planted in borders and trained over a large area. For first early
forcing no variety in pots can compare with Sz. John’s, which is practically
identical with Pingo de Mel (where one is grown, the other need not be). To
follow St. John’s nothing will surpass Brown Turkeyand White Marseilles. The
later sorts will follow these, such as Bourjasotte Grise, Bourjasotte Noire, Negro
Largo, Violette Sepor, Nebian, and D’ Agen, the last-named being the latest fig
grown. The White Ischia, quite a miniature fig, is well worth growing in pots ;
it is most prolific and of delicious flavour.

Tue Orancz, Lemon, anp ALLIED Fruirs.—All these may be treated
alike, and it may be taken that the soil recommended for such as peach,
nectarine, and other trees, will also suit in these instances, except that more lime
or mortar rubble should be added. It is much to be deplored that the cultiva-
tion of these useful and ornamental fruiting trees is practically non-existent in
this country. In no sense are they difficult to grow in cool houses, and they
are always admired when well fruited. On the Continent they are grown in
tubs of excessive size. These are not necessary if good soil is used, firm potting
practised, and care taken not to neglect the watering. Being evergreens they
will not bear much dryness at the roots, while for the same reason only
occasional repotting is advisable. Scarcely any pruning is needed. Just the
strong shoots should be checked so that they do not rob the weaker ones, The
greatest insect enemy of these trees is the scale, which, however, can be easily
kept down with the XL-All plant wash or insecticide, not the vaporizer.

Necrarines.—Cardinal (Rivers’) is beyond question the best first early
variety for pot culture, either for first early forcing or for ripening naturally. It
is not recommended by the raisers for planting out-of-doors ; with a properly
prepared border, however, I consider it safe to plant as a trained tree under
glass. It is fully twenty days earlier than Lord Napier under exactly similar
conditions of culture. The fruits “set” freely, and their colour is denoted by
the name. Early Rivers succeeds Cardinal, being about ten days later. It is
a larger fruit when ripe, and altogether an excellent variety. It is most reliable
when the trees are started at the new year. Lord Napier and Advance : two

68 THE FRUIT GARDEN

first-rate varieties, the former the better known of the two; but if I had
to choose between them I should prefer the latter for pot culture. Dryden,
Byron, Improved Downton, Goldoni, Rivers’ Orange, Pine-Apple, Humboldt,
Newton, Spenser, Victoria, and Albert Victor, are all of proved excellence and of
good quality ; the two last-named are the best late varieties.

PzacuEs.—Until recently, we have not had so reliable a peach for early
forcing in pots as Cardinal is among Nectarines; but now I am convinced,
after two seasons’ trial, that an acquisition in this respect has been intro-
duced, viz., the variety Duchess of Cornwall (formerly called Duchess of York).
It ripens a few days perhaps after Amsden June, but it is infinitely better
in that it isa reliable cropper, sets freely, and, what is still more in its favour, it is
not a “ bud dropper” in any sense ofthe term. Waterloo, Alexander, and Amsden
June can still be grown if the trees are allowed to burst into growth naturally,
but as a succession to Duchess of Cornwall I prefer to depend upon Hale's Early,
which on the whole does not drop its buds so much. Early Grosse Mignonne
follows this, but Rivers’ Early York, which is a better cropper, is only a few
days behind it. Then we have such well-known sorts as Dr. Hogg, Crimson
Galande, Dymond, Stirling Castle, Goshawk, and for the latest, Sea Eagle, The
Nectarine Peach, Golden Eagle, and Osprey. (I do not recommend either of
the well-known old peaches, Royal George, Noblesse, Early York; they are
superseded by Dymond, Alexandra Noblesse, and Rivers’ Early York respec-
tively. ‘These latter are not at all liable to mildew.)

Prums.—Not until I had actually tested the adaptability of the plum to pot
culture did I believe it possible to obtain such satisfactory and reliable results.
The earliest of the best dessert varieties can be forced as easily as the nectarine,
and may be had ripe for dessert from the middle of May onwards, a succession
being maintained without any difficulty. The best for forcing we find to be:
Early Transparent Gage, Reine Claude du Comte Hathem, Jefferson, and Kirke’s,
all of which are excellent and of recognised good quality. Early Prolific also
forces well, being really the earliest of all to ripen; as a pot plum it is also of
better quality than when planted out-of-doors. During the London season
these plums are an invaluable adjunct to the dessert. For fruiting in pots
without forcing the following are of proved excellence, viz.: those already
named for forcing and Golden Transparent (the most handsome plum in culti-
vation when grown in pots and ripened under glass, and of the finest
flavour), Transparent, Late Transparent, Golden Esperen, Oullin’s Golden Gage,
Old Greengage, Reine Claude de Bavay, Coe’s Golden Drop, Ichworth Impératrice,
Bryanston Gage ; we also grow in pots Monarch and Grand Duke (both valuable
for their colour); also Decaisne, Late Rivers, and Late Golden for their late
ripening and keeping properties. A strong point in favour of plum culture in
pots is the perfect finish obtained in the fruits, owing to the shelter from rain
and the protection from birds and insect pests.

Cuerrigs.—In starting to grow cherries in pots for forcing we had no
reliable data to work upon, hence we had to find out by practice which sorts
were best adapted to the object in view. After several seasons we have proved
now that the earliest dessert cherry to ripen is Guigne d’ Annonay, a black variety

A TYPICAL POT PEAR TREE.

FRUIT TREES IN POTS 69

of medium size and of excellent quality and productiveness ; it ripens ten days
earlier than either Bigarreau de Schreken or Early Rivers: of these two
varieties we find the former the more reliable for forcing. As regards size it is
a grand fruit, intensely black, very juicy, and of rich flavour. Early Rivers
comes in splendidly if the trees are allowed to flower naturally under glass, the
fruits are then a few days earlier than the earliest outdoor fruits; next in order
come Governor Wood, Frogmore Early Bigarreau, Belle d’Orléans, and Black
Tartarian. All these should be included even if forcing is not attempted, and
the following added: Bigarreau Napolton, Bigarreau Noir de Guben, Bigarreau
Noir de Schmidt, Elton, Monstrueux de Mezel, and for the latest, Emperor Francis,
Florence, and Géant de Hedelfinger. It should be noted, in the forcing of cherries
in pots (or otherwise), that the trees must not be hard forced. "This ] have con-
clusively proved. Cherries will practically fail if given the same treatment
as peaches. ‘There should be as much difference in the temperatures of
these fruits as in those of vines and peaches. This means that when the trees
are in flower the night temperature of the houses will range from 40 to 45 degs.
Fahr. Ventilation should be constant except in the very worst weather. ‘The
May Duke cherry in pots is extremely useful, on account of the abundance of
pollen the flowers possess; it is well worth growing for that purpose alone,
to enable one to fertilise the flowers of varieties less favoured in this respect.

Prars.— These do not enter so extensively into the category of pot fruits
as any of the preceding. ‘They are, nevertheless, very useful and most orna-
mental. Only the best of the dessert sorts should be grown. The earliest
varieties are not so desirable as those that will keep well. The following are
recommended as being satisfactory in pots: Fondante d’ Automme, Beurré Superfin,
Triomphe de Vienne, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Thompson's, Glou Morceau, Doyenné du
Comice, Pitmaston Duchess, Durondeau.

AppLes.—As in the case of pears, it is better to grow only the choice
varieties, such, for instance, as Ribston Pippin, Cox’s Orange Pippin, Washington,
King of Tompkin’s County, Mother Apple. The large fruits of Peasgood’s Nonesuch,
Alexander, and other sorts, look extremely well upon the trees, but for quality
are not desirable.

ATCO ASI ra

CHAPTER Vil

THE GOOSEBERRY

By GEORGE BUNYARD

m=S=_,.------

RAISING FROM CUTTING AND FORMING

GOOSEBERRY BUSH

(Z) Cutting of strong, well-ripened shoot, cut

ened, so that ultimately a bush, with

transversely below a joint, the top short-
ened so that the cutting is ro to 12
inches long, all eyes and spines removed
to a height of 6 inches from the base,
three or four (as in the sketch) buds
left at the upper part to form branches.
Insert firmly in the soil 4 inches deep
in autumn; if many are inserted the
cuttings should be 6 inches apart in the
rows, and the rows 1 foot asunder, leav-
ing out every fifth row, thus forming
beds; (7) one-year-old bush marked
for pruning (cross lines) each shoot to
about four good buds, the object being
to originate two vigorous growths from
each branch. The bush may be started
with three branches; dotted lines indi-
cate eight branches formed.

Tuis flourishes in all garden soils, but
thrives best in districts where the air is
tempered by cool nights, heavy dews, and
frequent rains. Gooseberries are very gross
feeders, and will benefit by applications of
the strongest manures, as fish refuse, fish
and meat guano, pig and cow manure,
which, if dug well into the ground before
February, add both to the size and quality
of the fruits. When the bushes are planted
in gravelly or sandy soils a mulching of
fresh stable manure applied in March will
greatly benefit them, and during a dry spring
and summer will keep the surface of the
ground cool and moist, and thus prevent its
cracking. Neither will the fruits be dis-
figured and damaged by soil splashed up by
heavy rains.

Pruninc.—If gooseberries are planted
before Christmas it is best to cut back the
shoots, say, to three or four buds, and in the
case of upright growing varieties prune to
a bud pointing outwards; but with goose-
berries of a weeping habit of growth, the
outside or lower branches should be cut to
a bud pointing inwards, to encourage the
shoots upwards, otherwise the berries may
be spoilt by soil splashed up in wet weather.
The shoots resulting from this pruning
should be trained so as to form the shape
of a basin; remove all useless shoots, cut-
ting them back to three buds. Should the
bushes not make enough shoots the first
year to form a good base, the few will be
naturally strong, and should be again short-

regularly disposed branches, may be
jo

THE GOOSEBERRY

formed.

71

For garden trees all side shoots can be pinched back to three buds, so

as to form spurs along the principal branches, and the leading shoots can be cut

back a little year by year, in order to secure a
shapely and well-balanced bush, but they may be
left the full length when the bushes are formed.
The side shoots on cordon and other trained trees
should also be shortened to three eyes in order to
form spurs on the branches. This pruning will
cause fruit buds to form on the lower parts of the
shoots, and will eventually result in the main boughs
being provided with fruit buds along their entire
length. The leading shoots are left untouched.

Marker CuLture.—Gooseberries when grown
for market are hard pruned for two years to form
the bushes, and subsequently the long shoots are
left their full length. “The bushes must be severely
pruned, if necessary, to prevent shoots crossing each
other and to leave ample room for the pickers to
reach the fruit without being inconvenienced by
the prickly stems. Care should be taken to prune
them so that the principal branches are well away
from the ground ; small and ill-formed berries will
then be very rare, and quality is a most important
factor when fruit has to be profitably disposed of.
This severe pruning causes the bushes to make strong,
stout shoots, and a constant supply of young wood,
upon which the best berries are produced. Those
unacquainted with
market culture would
be alarmed to see the
bushes comparatively
bare after the pruners
had finished their work.
The aim of the pruner
should be to manage
the bushes in such a
way that no old, worn-
out branches are re-
tained.

Various Meruops

SPURS

(7) Forming, but not bearing ; (s)
producing fruit, and form-
ing a continuation spur.

BRANCH OF GOOSEBERRY SHOW-
ING MODE OF GROWTH AND
FRUITING

(z) Fruit produced from wood of

preceding year’s formation ; (0)
spurs (short stubby growths
with several leaves and buds)
upon which fruit is borne the
following season; (Z) side shoots
that may be retained if required
for furnishing branches, or
pinched at about the fifth leaf
when not wanted for that pur-
pose, and in the autumn follow-
ing’ cut back to a bud or two
from base; (g) extension of
branch growth that may be
stopped at about 1 foot if grow-
ing too vigorously, and in
winter shortened to 6 or 8
inches, if strong.

oF Traininc.—During recent years excellent

standard gooseberry trees have been produced,
grafted on the stems of Ribes aureum. "They form compact heads, which are
smothered with fruits; and as these are quite away from the ground, they are

free from grit, clean, and easy to gather.

The stems of standard trees are
from 24 to 5 feet high, although the latter are rather too tall.

Cordon goose-

72 THE FRUIT GARDEN

berries are very fruitful, and if at the July pruning the side shoots are pinched

0
t-
q
th
pe
4) 2,: ~
/ u
4 t
ult : LF
Y r {}
Z ye
Vv sf 2 a
UWL
y Ww, o-v
if w
i fl fs

PORTION OF BRANCH TO SHOW METHOD
OF PRUNING BRANCHES

(2) One year's growths bearing some fruit
forming spurs, and continuation growth
with some side shoots in following
summer ; (z) points on two years’ wood
where side shoots have been spurred in,
or cut to about an inch from base; (v)
spurs on two years’ wood that must be
retained for bearing; (w) short growth
on three-year-old wood—it is often desir-
able to leave this in order to afford succes-
sion branches to those cut out; (x) point
where a shoot has been cut out to prevent
crowding ; (y) point where a branch may
be cut out when it becomes weakened
and worn out by bearing, in favour of a
promising shoot.

nent buds, and thus might spoil
the crop also.

at every fourth leaf they bear wonderful
crops. This form of training is used to
fill vacant spaces on walls and for plant-
ing against wire trellises; in either case
they can be easily netted if birds are trouble-
some. Fan-trained, “U-shaped, or pal-
mette (toasting-fork) trained are pretty forms
for trellises or walls; a few of these should
be planted in warm situations for early
picking, and also on north walls, where the
fruits may be gathered as late as September,
and are then much appreciated.

In the Midlands and the North, goose-
berry shows are held, at which enormous
fruits are exhibited. These are obtained by
syringing the trees frequently in dry weather,
keeping the soil moist by covering it with
chickweed or some low-growing herb, and
by liberal feeding at the roots with liquid
manure. When the fruits are developing,
all except a few of the best shaped ones
are removed. This method of culture, how-
ever, constitutes merely a hobby, for a
moderate-sized berry for dessert purposes is
far preferable. Except for exhibition, thin-
ning the fruits is sufficiently carried out by
removing a portion of them for cooking in
a green state.

Birp Enemies.—W here bullfinches and
sparrows injure and destroy the buds of the
trees, it is a good plan to tie up the bushes
and prune them early in March. Upright-
growing varieties are less attacked than
those with drooping shoots, as the birds
readily settle on the latter, and very prickly
sorts are safer. A dressing of soot, lime,
and new milk syringed on the trees in
November in dry weather will often protect
the buds. Where bullfinches and sparrows
are numerous, pruning is best deferred until
March; the birds select the most promi-
the shape of the young trees and reduce

THE GOOSEBERRY 44

THE BEST GOOSEBERRIES

We have thought it best to divide these into two classes. The first section
contains those with small berries, which are esteemed for their superior flavour ;
and the second section comprises the large, handsome berries commonly called
Lancashire Prize Gooseberries, which are excellent for dessert if gathered at the
right time; as a rule, however, they lack the distinct rich, sweet flavour of the
smaller fruits. Both may be used for cooking purposes, and by thinning the

t
GROWTH (STOPPED) FROM
A SHOOT BEARING FRUIT A Spur, LEAFLESS
(z) Point of stopping at about the fifth leaf; (4) Point where pinched in summer ; (c)
(z) point of pruning in winter to form laterals ; (¢) point of shortening at
spur in following summer. winter pruning ; (e) spur.

Lancashire sorts when the fruits are young and green, the remaining berries will
become very large.

The fruits of other colours than red are rather difficult of classification, as
the whites, greens, and yellows merge into one another as they ripen ; but for
purposes of selection they are placed according to their prevailing colours.

IL—SMALL-FRUITED

GREEN FRUITS

GREENGAGE OR EARLY GREEN HalRy.—Gvrowth upright and free; great bearer.
Fruit dark green, veined, mottled white ; favour rich ; sézm thin,

GLENTON GREEN.—/yruz¢ medium sized, hairy, grass green, with white veins ; favour
rich, sweet ; free bearer ; tree short-jointed.

GREEN GASCOIGNE.—Grow/h free and upright; /vwz¢ milk white and pale green,
with white hairs ; a first-class variety ; profuse bearer.

GREEN HEDGEHOG.—Growth upright; prickly ; frw¢t greenish white, with white
hairs, oval ; sézm thin ; flavour first-class.

LANGLEY GAGE (VEITCH’S), A.M. 1896.—Frui¢ deep green, with white veins ; s&z7
thin ; flavour first-rate ; profuse bearer.

ROSEBERY.—Grow/th free, spreading ; /rwz¢ deep olive green, shaded, slightly hairy ;
skin thin ; flavour very good.

74 THE FRUIT GARDEN

Rep Fruits

Dogson’s SEEDLING.—Growth moderate ; very prickly; /ruzt deep blood red,
shaded light red ; favour good ; an enormous bearer.

IRONMONGER.—Growth upright ; fruzt small, flattened, hairy, deep blood red ; very
rich, and good for bottling.

KEEN’S SEEDLING.—Growth compact and very prickly ; fruct resembles Warring-
ton, but larger, and hangs late, hairy, bright red.

RED CHAMPAGNE.—Gyrow¢h upright ; fruit very bright red ; nearly smooth ; favour
rich and brisk. ;

SCOTCH RED ROUGH.—Gyrowdh compact ; very free bearer; frwzt small and hairy ;
good for bottling ; flavour rich and brisk.

SUPERB.—Gvow¢h compact ; great bearer; /ruzf deep blood red, shaded, hairy ;
flavour good.

WARRINGTON (Aston Red).—Growth compact ; fruit bright red, hangs late; flavour
very rich and brisk ; good
for late supply on walls or
in shaded spots.

YELLOW FRUITS

CHAMPAGNE YELLOW.
—Closely resembles Gol-
den Drop (which see).

GOLDEN DRoOP.—
Growth upright ; frat
almost transparent, oval-
shaped, hairy. When ripe
a bright amber colour.
The earliest to ripen.

‘GOLDEN LION.—
Growth upright ; fruct
round, almost smooth,
bronzy yellow ; s&¢z thick ;
Jjiavour very rich; keeps
late.

YELLOW BAaLL—
Growth upright; /rudts
shaded yellow and orange,

BusH, Four YEARS OLD FROM almost bronze, very small
CUTTING but delicious; s427 smooth.

: YELLOW SULPHUR.—
(f) Pruned main branches, all side growths spurred in to two buds, < : =
and promising growths. left for extension of bush ; (g) branches eo eee ; very like
not pruned, but marked for pruning. 0 Pe ann ene a
Yomel ahd

deep golden, with white veins; sz thin; favour excellent; very free bearer. F.C.C.
1897.

Wuire FRuirs

BRIGHT VENUS.—Grow¢h upright; /ruzt almost transparent when ripe; flavour
very sweet and rich.

CHESHIRE Lass (White Shiner).—Gvow¢h upright ; fruzf white when young, trans-
parent when fully ripe showing seeds ; favour rich and sweet ; skin thin.

WHITESMITH (Velvet White, Eagle, White Eagle, or Snowdrop).—Growth strong,

THE GOOSEBERRY 15

uprgAt thorny ; one of the earliest to pick green; flavour quite first-class ; /ruzt large,
owny.
COLUMBUS (American).—This has proved to be the Whitesmith of our gardens.

IIlL.—LARGE-FRUITED (LANCASHIRE)

Rep Fruits

BEAUTY.—Growth drooping and tree; /ruzt very large, pink, and shaded with deep
red ; a good bearer. :

BOBBY.—Growth drooping ; one of the largest ; fruz¢ pale brownish red, often blood
red; favour rich, brisk ; early.

CROWN BosB.—Grow?thA strong, arching ; /ruzt large, with very thin s&zz, and of the
finest favour. Can be picked early in a green state.

CLAYTON.—Growth drooping ; fruzts long, dark reddish purple, with broad veins ;
late.

COMPANION.—Grvowth strong, great bearer; /ruzt dull red ; veins paler; keeps well
(on trees) ; siz thick.

Dan’s MISTAKE.—Growth erect and free ; /rzz¢ rich crimson, red, and pink; white
veins ; keeps late (on trees); siz thick; flavour good.

DUKE OF SUTHERLAND.—Growth drooping and slender; /ruzf light red, shaded
with grey ; late.

LorD DERBY.—Growth drooping; one of the best ; /ruzt handsome, deep red ;
skin thin; flavour very sweet.

LANCASHIRE LAD.—Growth compact, arching, prickly ; /ruzt deep red, shaded
light red, almost smooth ; a great favourite for market both green and ripe; bushes
can be planted 5 feet apart.

LoNDON.—An awkward grower. Requires support; rather tender in low situations ;
fruit very large, deep purplish red.

NAPOLEON THE GREAT.—Growth free; moderate cropper; /ruzt very handsome,
bright scarlet, and of good flavour.

PRINCE REGENT.—Growth spreading ; fruz¢ dark red, large.

RIFLEMAN.—Growth upright, vigorous, making a large bush; /ruz¢ bright red,
hairy ; favour good; a suitable variety for late market. ;

SPEEDWELL.—Growth moderate, erect; fruit large when well thinned, deep
crimson red; s&zm thin ; early.

WHINHAM’S INDUSTRY.—Grvowth upnght, prickly, vigorous; great bearer ; fruzt
carries well to market when ripe ; late. ; ; ,

Other varieties are :—Conquering Hero, England, Falstaff, Guido, Roaring Lion,
Wonderful.

Wuire Fruits

ANTAGONIST.—Growth drooping, the largest white gooseberry ; /rwzt creamy white
with green veins ; flavour excellent. : :
ALMA.—Growth free; fruit blotched with snow-white and pale green, handsome ;

skin thin ; flavour very sweet. .
CARELESS.—Growth free; slender; great bearer; fruit large, creamy white with
white blotches and veins, handsome ; of the finest favour. ;
FREEDOM.—Growth good; fruzt long, green, veined white, early ; sz thin; rich
sweet flavour. ; :
KING OF TRUMPS.—Grow?th moderate; fruit dull greenish white; early and

large.

76

THE FRUIT GARDEN

PRUNING AND TRAINING CORDON GOOSEBERRIES,

COOSEBERRY BRIGHT VENUS (veduced),

COOSEBERRY IRONMONGER (reduced).

THE GOOSEBERRY 77

Lavy LEICESTER.—Growth upright; frudf has a golden tinge when ripe ; favour
very good. F.C.C. 1901.

LANCER, Howarv’s.—Growth free; one of the largest and best gooseberries ;
superb in flavour and appearance. F.C.C. 1901.

OVERSEER—Growth vigorous; a good mid-season variety ; Jruit creamy white,
well flavoured.

POSTMAN.—Growth moderate, free bearer; fruit snow-white with green veins;
flavour very good.

SHINER.—Growth free ; fruit of the very largest, blotched with white at base; veins
very marked.

SMITH’s NONPAREIL.—Growth upright; /ruct downy, pale greenish white ; a late
berry ; favour good.

TRANSPARENT.— Growth upright ; /ruzt palest green with white ribs ; favour very
good ; late and very large.

_ WHITESMITH OR VELVET WHITE.—Growth upright, prickly ; fruit downy, good to

pick early, and of splendid favour when ripe.

Other good sorts are: —Faithful, Fascination, Hero of the Nile, Queen of Trumps,
Tally Ho!

GREEN Fruits

ADMIRATION.— Growth free ; frudt green with white veins ; favour good.

BRITISH QUEEN.—Growth free and erect ; fruz¢ richly flavoured.

GREENOCK.—Growth upright, good bearer; /rui¢ bright green ; favour good.

OcEAN.—Growth free and strong, drooping. Very fine mid-season gooseberry.

PHILIP THE FIRST.—Growth upright ; a handsome fruit, ripening late.

ee ee upright, but spreading; /ruzt pale green and white; favour
good.

PRUNING AND TRAINING CORDON GOOSEBERRIES

SINGLE CoRDON.—oO, Cutting; straight shoot of last year’s growth about 1 foot in length—properly
prepared and inserted ; (/) part from which buds are removed ; (g) upper buds left; (%) depth of inserting
firmly in soil—about 4 inches deep—the dotted lines indicating direction of growth, from buds in following
spring. p. One-year-old plant; (z) leader; (7) point of shortening leader in winter; (4) side shoots;
(2) point of shortening side shoots to within 1 inch of their bases to form spurs. Q. Tree, first year of
training ; (m) leader; () point of shortening leader in winter, not leaving more than 1 foot or there-
abouts of last summer's growth; (0) side shoots shortened to within 1 inch of base; (#) cut-back growths
shortened to within 1 inch of base; (¢) spurs formed by shortening side branches; (7) spurs formed
naturally in previous summer ; (5s) stake to which leading growth is trained to keep it erect.

DouBLe or ‘‘U” CorpDon.—R. Cutting; (¢) part from which buds are cut off; (z) two buds

retained ; (v) ground level; dotted lines indicate growths from buds in following spring. s. One-year-
old tree; (w) leaders; (x) points of shortening leaders at winter pruning. T. Two-year-old tree; (y)
leaders on which laterals, if any, have been pinched to one leaf, as shown in upper part; (z) point of
shortening leaders in winter; (a) point of shortening a lateral (stopped in 'summer) to within a bud of
its base; (4) point of shortening side shoots, which in summer have been pinched to five leaves;
c) spurs.
A Tur ee-BRANCHED or ‘TOASTING ForK" CoRDOoN.—v. Three-year-old tree in growth; (d)
point where one-year-old tree (P) was shortened at winter pruning; (e) points where side shoots were
shortened in first year; (7) point of second winter shortening of leading growths; (g) side shoots
pinched at fifth leaf, and to be cut to within 1 inch of base at winter pruning; (2) leaders pinched at 15
inches of growth, laterals on them to one leaf, and leaders shortened to 1 foot at winter pruning.

TRELLIS. —(z) Straining pillar with winders ; (7) stay; (2) wires 1 foot apart ; (2) temporary wires for
training the growths perfectly upright.

Four-BRANCHED OR DOUBLE ‘‘U"” CorDoNn.—v. (m) Point of first shortening two-branched
one-year-old tree, thus originating two strong growths trained erectly, in the autumn the lower on each
branch is brought down and shortened ; () upright shoots cut to one or two buds; i side shoots to a
bud above bend, thus starting the growths on a level; (#) points of third pruning; (g) points of fourth
pruning; (7) points of fifth pruning, the tree then being fully formed and properly pruned.

78 THE FRUIT GARDEN

STOCKWELL.—Growth slender ; a very good mid-season variety, bright green with
white veins.

TELEGRAPH.—Growth upright; /ruzt.very handsome, olive green, veined white;
late; sézz thin ; flavour excellent.

THUMPER.—Growth moderate and drooping; /rué¢ handsome, sometimes has a
red tint.

Other good sorts are :—British Oak, Cheerful, Diadem, Lancelot, Overall, Sir
George Brown, Surprise.

YELLOW FRuvITs

CRITERION.-—Grow#h upright ; fruit pale creamy yellow, almost transparent.

CATHERINA.—Gyvowth drooping ; /ruzt bright orange yellow, of very good flavour.

DRILL._Gvowth spreading; a fine deep golden fruit, roundish oval; flavour
good.

GUNNER.—Growth free, erect, a great bearer; fruzt deep yellow to bronze, with
paler veins ; one of the best flavoured ; s#zz thin. A.M. 1901.

CoBHAM.—Resembles Gunner, to which A.M. was given.

HIGH SHERIFF—Gvowth moderate; a very good early gooseberry, hairy, rich orange
yellow ; flavour first-class.

KEEPSAKE.—Grow?th vigorous; /ruzt pale greenish yellow, lightly dotted with red.
One of the earliest to pick green, a large handsome fruit, making top prices in the
market ; s#zm thick.

BERRY’s KENT.—Very similar to, if not the same, as Keepsake.

LANGLEY BEAUTY (Veitch’s).—Gvow/zh free ; fruzt rich golden yellow; one of the
finest for beauty and flavour. F.C.C. 1896.

LEADER.—Grvowth moderate, upright, a great bearer; /ruz¢ deep orange and
brownish green ; of good flavour, very large.

LEVELLER.—Growth drooping and free, an enormous bearer; /ruz¢ primrose with
pale orange blotches and veins ; flavour rich ; skim thin; early.

Lorpb RANCLIFFE.—Grow?h upright ; fruzt handsome, pale yellow.

MARIGOLD.—Growth moderate; /fruzt deep orange, paler near stalk; very rich
flavour.

RINGER.—Gyrowth free and drooping; a very fine large round gooseberry, yellow,
netted, and shaded brown.

STELLA.—Gvrowth upright and vigorous ; /rzz¢ oval shaped, light yellow.

Other good sorts are :—Broom Girl, Garibaldi, Gipsy Queen, Peru, Thatcher, Two
to One.

Guava, THE (see p. 215).
Lemon, THE (see p. 205).
Loquat, THE (see p. 215).
Manco, Tue (see p. 210).

THE MEDLAR

This fruit is very highly esteemed for dessert when in proper condition ; it
is also delicious when made into jelly, cheese, or as a sauce for game. The
trees, budded on the whitethorn, are very hardy, and will grow anywhere. The
branches require a fair amount of thinning, and a mulching of rich manure on
the surface of the ground when the fruits are formed will repay the grower.

FRUITING BRANCHES OF THE MEDLAR.

THE MEDLAR 79

Mention should also be made of the beauty of the medlar tree when in flower.
There are but three recognised varieties :—

DUTCH OR MonstTROUS.—This has very large foliage and flowers, and produces the
finest fruit. The tree has a weeping habit, and is not out of place on a lawn; it may be
made to form an arbour. The fruits are gathered in October and left in a cool fruit
room until Christmas to ripen; they are then much esteemed.

THE ROYAL.—The fruits of this are not so large as those of the Dutch ; the tree has
smaller leaves, but as a rule bears better crops than the former.

NOTTINGHAM.—This has quite small, brisk, well-flavoured fruits, and they are very
freely produced ; the tree is of upright growth, and both branches and foliage are thin.

Mepiar, THE JAPANESE (see p. 215).

CHAPTER IX
THE MELON

By OWEN THOMAS

Tue natural order of plants (Cucurbitacee) to which the melon belongs
embraces widely different kinds of fruits, and includes the cucumber, the
gourd, and the vegetable marrow, but the melon is by far the most important,
whether considered as an article of luxury in this country or as an article of
food in the country where it is indigenous. The Cantaloupe melon, which
takes its name from a town so called near Rome, is the variety most esteemed
on the Continent. The flesh of the Cantaloupe is rather dry, inclined to
hardness, and not melting or juicy, as compared to the melon grown in England
under glass. It is imported in large quantities, and, as it is sold cheaply, affords
to our industrial population wholesome and pleasant food. It may be grown in
this country in summer in unheated glass frames, and then is of superior flavour
to the imported fruits, but it can be obtained from our shops at so low a price
that its culture in this country under artificial conditions will never be under-
taken to any extent. The water melon is a fruit greatly appreciated in
Egypt, China, and the East Indies, where it is cultivated extensively. In some
parts of Upper Egypt whole districts are covered with water melons. ‘The
melon as known to English gardeners appears to be a native of Tartary, and,
like several more of our exotic fruits, is supposed to have been introduced into
Britain from Italy in the year a.p. 1520, and from Gerarde’s account, its
culture appears to have been almost restricted to the royal gardens. Gerarde
had not grown this melon himself, but had seen it at the Queen’s house,
St. James’s. It is stated in Gough’s “British Topography” that melons were
common in England as early as the time of Edward III, but were entirely
lost, as well as the cucumber, during the Wars of the Roses. It is singular as
confirming the fact that the evil of too many sorts of melons is a complaint of
very long standing, that we find Miller remarking: “In this country there are
too many melons produced of no value by those who supply the market, who,
endeavouring to enlarge their size, render the fruit of no value, and unworthy
of the trouble and expense, being more fit for the dunghill than the table.”
That the complaint has existed from that time until now in a more or less
acute form must, I am afraid, be admitted, but let us hope that the mischief in
this respect in the present day does not deserve the scathing condemnation pro-
nounced by Miller against it in his time. There has been so much written,
and well written too, of late years as regards the cultivation of the melon, that

were it a question only of writing for the present generation of gardeners, I do
80

‘SUTACUOT AMON IFN NI ANYNLTONO NOTIN

sueay Buns

AN EFFECTIVE METHOD OF SECURING MELON FRUITS.

THE MELON 81

not know that I should presume at this time to swell the volume of matter
written on the subject. But most of us know that the wheel of time is some-
thing like the wheel of fortune; it is wonderful how quickly it revolves, and
how soon one generation of gardeners is succeeded by another.

As grown in British gardens, the melon may not be so important as
some other fruits, yet no summer dessert is considered complete without its
refreshing and welcome presence. No committee of a horticultural summer
show would think of issuing a schedule without offering prizes for this popular
summer fruit, and certainly no gardener is deserving of the name who has not
endeavoured to excel in its cultivation.

Hovsgs.—Any structure that is sufficiently well heated will grow melons
satisfactorily, but for very early crops lean-to houses, well heated, are the best,
and these should face due south. For summer crops, no doubt, span-roofed
houses are the best, and they should be built with the ends pointing
south and north, so that the plants may have full advantage of the morn-
ing, afternoon, and evening sun, and not the full force of the sun at
the hottest time of the day. I do not advocate large houses for melons—
for one reason, because they succeed better in rather small ones, and for
another, that they can be more economically grown, for of course less fuel
is required to heat the latter than the former. A width of 8 feet is quite
sufficient for a lean-to structure for early forcing; the length must be
determined by the number of plants to be grown and the quantity of fruit
required. The roof should be at an angle of about 38 degs. The height of
the back wall need not be more than g feet, efficient top and front ventilation
must be provided, and the ventilators should be so secure that when closed xo
air Can enter, for it must be remembered that early melons are grown in winter,
when scarcely any front air is admitted from the time they are planted until
the ripening time approaches. If the ventilators, especially the front ones, are
not effectually closed, there is much waste of heat and fuel. In houses of this
size and description, three 4-inch flow and two return hot-water pipes will
provide sufficient heat. As regards bottom heat, I prefer that furnished by
leaves and stable (straw) litter mixed up in sufficient quantity to make a bed
2 feet thick when well troddendown. This will afford sufficient heat for three
or four months, 7.e. until the crop is ripe. If these materials are not available
in sufficient quantities, then hot-water pipes will have to be substituted ; one
flow and return 4-inch pipe will be enough, and these should be laid in the
middle of the bed, which need not be so deep as when fermenting material is
used. The cultivator should have full control of the heat, and valves therefore
must be fixed both to the flow and return pipes, and the same holds good with
reference to the pipes for warming the atmosphere.

51zE OF Bep.—It was the custom years ago, and I am afraid it is now more
or less, to provide large, wide, and deep beds to accommodate the materials
thought necessary for the successful culture of the melon. This practice, I need
scarcely say, entailed much waste and needless expense ; the melon needs but
little soil to grow in, as evidenced by the excellent crops often produced by
plants in comparatively small pots. The size of bed I advise if fermenting

F

82 THE FRUIT GARDEN

materials are used is 34 feet deep and 2 feet wide, these when settled to
occupy rather more than 2 feet, and the soil rather less than 1 foot. If hot-
water pipes are used, a bed 2 feet deep by 2 feet wide will be large enough.
I ought to say that the border should be high enough to allow the young plants
when planted out to be within 18 inches of the roof of the house, and within
6 or 7 inches of the trellis upon which the plants are to be trained.

Soi.—The best compost for melon culture is turf cut from old pasture-land,
and if the land is inclined to be marly, or of a strong, loamy texture, so much
the better. The turf should be cut 4 inches deep (with the grass undisturbed).
It is often recommended that with the loam should be mixed a certain quantity
of organic manure (e.g. horse droppings, cow manure, and leaf-mould). Thhis,
in my opinion, is a mistake, as of all materials loam alone is the best. The
object to keep in view is to build up a healthy, strong plant, free from gross and
sappy growth—a plant that will not give way under the strain of perfecting a
heavy crop of fruits. If the turf, or other soil available, is poor and of loose
texture, then I should advise the addition of a small quantity of horse or cow
manure and marl. Whole turves, as cut from the field, should be placed on
the fermenting material the width of the bed, grass side downwards: make them
firm by treading. On this turf small hillocks of soil should be placed 2 feet
apart, composed of loam broken into small pieces about the size of a walnut,
and made fairly firm. In the course of three or four days, when this soil has
become warm, and the manure has lost some of its rankness, the young plants
may be planted. If hot-water pipes are used for bottom heat instead of
fermenting material, then in the bottom of the bed upon which rest the hot-
water pipes, place broken bricks deeply enough to cover the pipes, finishing
with a layer of broken crocks; upon this place the layer of turf forming the
foundation of the bed of soil. ‘The heat from the pipes will easily permeate
the whole of the bed, and can be regulated by the valves.

RaisInG THE SEEDLINGS.—If ripe fruits are required in early spring, the
seeds should be sown not later than the 1st of January. I have occasionally
sown them about the 20th December, and if the weather early in the new
year happens to be bright, enabling the young plants to make a fair start, there
is a slight advantage in this early sowing. About the 25th April is as early as
it is possible to have melons ripe, and to enable the grower to cut fruit at this
early season great care and vigilance must be exercised. The best way to raise
the earliest seedlings I have found is to make up a heap of fermenting material
(large enough to accommodate the number of plants required) to within 6 inches
of the roof in a warm house. Two seeds should be placed in a small pot;
one seed would be enough if it were sure to grow, but so early in the season
seeds sometimes fail to start. ‘The small pots must be plunged in the prepared
bed, the temperature of which will be 85 degs. at first, falling to 80 degs. when
the young plants appear above ground, and at this temperature it will remain
for some time. When the seedlings are seen the temperature of the house
should not be allowed to fall below 65 degs. Fahr., even in the early morning ;
in order to keep a temperature of 70 degs. Fahr. at night, which should be
the minimum, it is better for the plants, and more economical also, to cover the

THE MELON 83

house with mats. The roof glass should often be washed, as light during
winter is of importance to the young melon plants. As soon as it is possible to
determine which of the two seedlings is the stronger, the weaker should be cut
off without disturbing the roots, and the other encouraged to grow. When
the young plant has formed, say two leaves in addition to the seed leaves, I have
found it an advantage to transfer it to a larger pot, and to replunge in the
hot bed; this, however, ought to be disturbed to half its depth, and a little
fresh litter added in order to raise the bottom heat slightly. By the first or
second week in February the seedlings should be sturdy, and ready for plant-
ing in the beds already prepared for them. Before planting out, examine
the plantlets carefully to see if there is green fly on them ; indeed, from the
first moment the young seedlings appear, this persistent enemy must not
be allowed to stay.

Prantrinc, Erc.—Make a hole in the little mounds of soil, wide and deep
enough to allow the tiny plant to be placed therein intact, and without disturb-
ing the roots. After planting, the surface soil of the seedling plant should be
a +inch lower than that of the hillock. The soil around the plants must
be made firm, and asmall stick be placed against each for support, but far enough
from the stem as not to injure it or the small roots near. A trial stick should
be inserted in the mounds of soil to ascertain from time to time the temperature
of the bed ; and if found too warm a fork must be inserted in the soil beneath
the plants, so as to raise them ; when after a few days the heat has subsided,
the plants may be pressed back into position. By keeping the plants free from
fly and closing the house early in the afternoon, progress will be rapid, and the
young plants will quickly reach the trellis. In securing the young growths, do
not tie them too tightly. If very early fruits are desired, the plants must not be
stopped ; lateral shoots will naturally push out, and as soon as possible secure
three with female flowers on, and fertilise these with pollen from the male
blooms, preferably on a dry day.

For the information of the inexperienced, I may here draw special attention
to the fact that in order to secure what is commonly understood as “a good set
of fruit,” say, three fruits on a plant of the large growing varieties, and four of
the small ones, the female blooms on a plant should be fertilised at the same
time if possible, as if one or two fruits are allowed to develop before any more
blooms are fertilised, the chances are that a light crop will result. By a little
patient waiting, it is always possible to secure three or four flowers open
together.

GrneraL CuLture.—As soon as the roots have filled the small mound of
soil more must occasionally be added until the fruits are formed, then the final
addition of soil must be made in the form of a ridge all along the bed, and
almost the width of the turves which form the foundation ; press the soil firmly
down. Attention must be given to tying in shoots and stopping laterals,
the latter must not be stopped too short; for instance, the first lateral that
makes its appearance from the main stem should be pinched at the fourth leaf
whether a fruit has formed or not, and the sub-lateral which results should
again be stopped at the third leaf, and so on as long as lateral growth con-

84 THE FRUIT GARDEN

tinues. It is impossible to make a hard and fast rule in this matter, but the
foregoing are safe rules to follow, the object being to provide sufficient new
growths to keep the plants in health. At the same time overcrowding must be
avoided, and when necessary the grower should not fail to cut out a useless,
barren branch or superfluous laterals ; endeavour to have a trellis covered with
healthy foliage that will help the plants to develop and mature a crop of perfect
fruits. As soon as the fruits have reached the size of a hen’s egg they should
be supported. The most useful article for this purpose is a small net which can
be bought for the purpose at a trifling cost, or a piece of strong raffia placed
crossways under the fruit and tied to the trellis answers very well.

So far we have been considering the first early crop of melons, which is
never so heavy as later crops are; later plants therefore should be planted
more than 2 feet apart, the distance recommended for early ones. If it is decided
to grow the plants with single stems, as advised for the early crop, they should
be planted 24 feet apart, and the main stems allowed to grow uninterruptedly
until they have reached the limit of the trellis. In the meanwhile many
laterals will have formed, nearly all of which will produce a fruit ; from them
a selection of the best should be made in order to secure a full crop of three
or four fruits to a plant. Many years ago a common method of melon-
growing was that known as the “ extension” system, 7.e. planting one or two
plants in a house, and allowing them to extend until the whole surface of the
trellis was covered by their shoots alone. There is no doubt that excellent
melons may be grown in this way, and it is also a fact that two, and sometimes
three, crops may be obtained from the same plants in one season. The first
crop is always good, but the second and third crops are not usually so. Where
this system is adopted it is necessary to prune the plants rather severely after
each crop has been gathered in order to make room for plenty of young growth
to provide the next fruits. I have found better and more profitable results from
the single stem system of cropping, and by this it is possible to secure three good
crops from the same house in one season.

CankER.—One of the greatest sources of trouble in the cultivation of the
melon is the liability of the stem to collapse just as the fruits are about to ripen,
often blasting with bitter disappointment all the labour and care of anxious
months. The man who can point out a safe and perfect cure for this dreaded
complaint would deserve well of his brother-gardeners; but as he has yet to be
found, the best I can do is to suggest a few preventives and a partial remedy.
It will be remembered that at first I recommended the plant to be grown
without manures of any kind, the object being to produce a healthy and
sound plant in preference to a soft and gross one. This, in my opinion, is
the greatest safeguard against this disease. Another is not to cut the laterals too
closely which form on the stem at its base (where canker always appears), but
let them remain, and stop them at the fourth leaf. I think to cut away
the laterals at the base of the stem often helps to produce this disease by
reason of the wounds formed. When once canker is perceived (and the first
indication is a slight black mark on the stem) the best thing to apply is Portland
cement, putting it dry on the affected part. If the disease is not arrested by the

THE MELON 85

first, successive applications must be given until sometimes in extreme cases
the stem will consist almost entirely of cement. This sets hard, and forms
with what little lite there is left in the stem a channel for sap circulation, saving
a crop which, if not so perfect as otherwise would be the case, is better than the
disappointment of an utter failure.

WareErinc.—With increased light and heat and the extension of growth the
melon plants must be liberally supplied with water, and always of the temperature
of the house they are growing in. Allow the border to become fairly dry
occasionally, and when watering does take place let it be an effectual one, and
alternately while the fruits are swelling it should consist of manure water from
the stable or cow yard. Liberal waterings must be given until the fruits are
fully developed and are showing signs of ripeness, and during the ripening
process water must not be entirely withheld, but only so much must be given
(and clear tepid water only) as will keep the foliage fresh. The ripening fruits
should be closely examined, and as soon as the aroma from them is distinguished
and the stalks show signs of parting from the fruits, these should be cut. Take
care that the stalks are preserved, as when they are broken off the appearance
of the fruits is impaired.

‘TEMPERATURES AND VENTILATION.—As I have before mentioned in the
case of the earliest crop of melons, little or no front ventilation will be necessary
from the time the fruits are set until they are ripe ; top ventilation is ample to
regulate the temperature. For subsequent crops the treatment will be much
the same, only more air will be necessary as the summer advances, but the
melon plant should not be subjected to cool treatment at any time; the mini-
mum should be 60 degs., maximum 85, or 90 degs. when closing the house in
the afternoon. Melons do not require much air at any time.

SHADING.—Unless the roots or stems give way in consequence of an attack
of canker, or from some other cause, shade should never be given.

SuccEssionaL Crops.—When only one house is available for the culture of
the melon, it is quite possible to obtain three good crops in one season, as I have
before mentioned, but to accomplish this it is necessary to anticipate the
planting-time by having good-sized, strong plants ready as soon as one crop is
cleared, and to secure the best results it is better to clear out all the old
materials from the beds, and fill up again with fresh manure and soil. ‘The old
materials need not be wasted, for they will be valuable in other ways in the
garden. Where new manure cannot be had in quantity, add some fresh to the
old, and treat the soil similarly before the second crop is planted. The third
crop of fruits should be ripe towards the middle or end of October. Melons
can be had of fairly good quality even so late as the end of November. Where
successional houses are available, I prefer planting out the young plants from
small pots, when only two or three leaves are developed.

Tue Meron as a Marxer Crop.—In the Channel Islands, where the
conditions are more favourable, melons are extensively grown for the English
and other markets, and are, I believe, fairly remunerative ; but they are only
grown to a limited extent for market in this country, and then generally as a
crop between others in the middle of summer, when scarcely any fire heat is

86 THE FRUIT GARDEN

required to develop and mature the fruits. In this connection one of the most
important considerations to bear in mind is to grow those only which are of
handsome, golden appearance, well netted, and which are reliable and heavy
croppers, and for this purpose I do not know of better varieties than Golden
Perfection, Royal Sovereign, and Hero of Lockinge.

Cutture In Cotp Frames.—Taking the country generally, I suppose
where there are three gardens possessing ample accommodation for melon
culture in houses, there are scores, if not hundreds, of small gardens, not so
favourably placed, whose owners would be delighted to be able to grow their
own melons. This is quite possible, and the method of doing so during the
summer months is easy and simple. We will suppose that the would-be
grower possesses a one, two, or three-light frame, as the case may be, and
the size of the frame will govern the quantity of fermenting material
necessary. If only a one-light frame is available, the bed should extend
beyond the frame for at least 2 feet all round, all the better if for 2}
or 3 feet. When the bed is finished it should be 5 feet high; the material,
consisting of ordinary litter from the stableyard, mixed with fresh leaves,
if obtainable (if not, stable litter will do by itself), should be put together
temporarily in a large heap to ferment, and in the course of a week
turned over to let the noxious gases escape; in about two hours it must
be put together again until it becomes hot, then opened out as before,
when, as a rule, it will be safe to make the permanent bed of the dimensions
given. Immediately the bed is completed, the frame should be placed upon it,
and the necessary soil put in; this will be the same as recommended for beds in
the houses, namely, a layer of turf across the middle of the frame, 2 feet wide,
laid grass side downwards, and a small mound of soil in the centre of each light.
The seeds are sown, two in a small thumb-pot, and the pots plunged in
leaf soil previously placed in a corner of the frame. It will be necessary for
some time to leave a little air at the back of the frame night and day to
allow the escape of any injurious fumes, which, in a confined atmosphere,
might prove fatal to the young plants. When these have three or four leaves
plant them out. They must be kept intact as they come out of the small
pots; in planting press the soil firmly. A little air must be given each
morning if the weather is sunny and warm (not otherwise), but close the
frame in good time in the afternoon, so that the heat may rise to 80 or 85
degs. with sun heat. Before closing, the plants, border surface, and sides of the
frame should be syringed with tepid water. Until, by experience, the grower
knows how high the temperature will become after the frame is closed in the
afternoon, a thermometer must be placed in a convenient corner ; look at this
a quarter of an hour after the frame is closed, and if more than 85 degs. are
registered, a little air must be readmitted. After a few days’ close observation
the cultivator will soon know the proper time to close the frame in order to
secure the heat desired, but until this experience is obtained, reference must be
made to the thermometer.

GENERAL CutturE.—The young plants will make rapid progress, and
when about six inches high they must be stopped, so that each plant will

A TYPICAL NETTED MELON.

THE MELON 87

produce two stems instead of one, making four stems in the space under each
light, and these should be disposed on the soil something in the way of a
Maltese cross. When these growths are 2} feet long, again stop them;
lateral shoots will then push out from the stem, and upon these the fruits
will be produced. As soon as a good set of fruit is secured (by carefully fer-
tilising the female blossoms with pollen from the male flowers), two fruits to a
stem, that is, four fruits to a plant, a quantity of warm soil should be added as
a top dressing. Half a barrow-load of soil to two plants will be sufficient, it
should be firmly pressed down, and no further addition will be necessary.
Keep lateral growths under control, by stopping and cutting out, as becomes
necessary to prevent overcrowding. When the fruits are the size of swans’
eggs, they should be raised from the surface of the border, and placed on inverted
flower pots for better exposure to light and sunshine. With careful attention
to ventilation, syringing, and closing the house early in the afternoon, the
plants will make good progress, and soon reward the grower with an excellent
crop of ripe fruit. Watering must not be neglected; use tepid water, with
occasional waterings of diluted manure water from the stableyard, or guano
water. Onno account must water come into direct contact with the main
stem of the plant at its base, certainly not nearer than two inches to it, other-
wise there is great danger of the stem damping off, the plants collapsing,
and the crop being sacrificed. It is not safe to commence melon culture in
cold frames before the end of March, and as long as cold evenings and
nights continue the frames must be covered with mats; at first three mats
thick will be none too many, gradually reducing to one as warmer weather
approaches.

Insect Enemigs.—Green and black fly are most troublesome, when the
melon plants are young. They can then be destroyed by means of a small soft
brush, and, when the plants are larger, by slight fumigation with “ XL-ALL”
Vaporizer. Red spider is sometimes troublesome. The best way to deal
with this is on its first appearance to sponge the affected leaves with warm
water in which soft soap and sulphur have been mixed, in the proportion of
one wine-glassful of the former and two of the latter to a gallon of water.
Frequent syringings with tepid rain water will afterwards keep this pest
in check.

Varieties.—These are innumerable, and almost every grower has his
favourites. There are three sorts of melons, namely, those with green, scarlet,
or white flesh. The following may be relied upon for culture in a house, pit,
or cold frame :—

GReEEN-FLESH VARIETIES

ROYAL JUBILEE.—Large, handsome fruit of good flavour, and deep flesh.

WINDSOR CASTLE.—A large, oval-shaped fruit, finely netted, and of rich and
delicious flavour.

HicH Cross Hyprip.—An excellent old green-fleshed variety.

EASTNOR CASTLE.—Still one of the best. Flesh dark green, of great depth, and
delicious flavour. Densely netted.

88 THE FRUIT GARDEN

GILBERT’S VICTORY OF BATH.—An old variety of sterling merit.

MIDDLESEX HERO.—A fruit of medium size, and of the highest quality and
flavour.

DICKSON’sS EXQUISITE.—This is well named, somewhat small, a free cropper, and
certainly one of the best flavoured melons known.

EaRL’s FAVOURITE.—A promising new variety of excellent flavour. Densely netted.

The green-flesh melon I consider to be richer and more luscious than
either the scarlet or white-flesh varieties, but not so sweet and refreshing
as the white, neither is the flesh so firm and satisfying as that of the scarlet
varieties. In one respect, the green-flesh melon suffers from a serious dis-
advantage as compared with the white or scarlet, that is, in its much less
attractive appearance ; the skin is generally of a dull green colour, contrasting
unfavourably with the golden appearance of the white-flesh varieties particularly.
Most of these are also prettily netted.

Wuitt-Fiesu VARIETIES

FROGMORE ORANGE.—This is one of the earliest as it is one of the most handsome
melons, a free cropper, and of delicious flavour.

HERO OF LOCKINGE.—Still one of the most popular and best. Skin bright yellow.

THE COUNTESS.—One of the best. Not unlike the preceding.

DAVENHAM EARLy.—As an early variety this is not so well known as it deserves to
be. It is a small melon, of exquisite flavour, and matures quickly.

THE Lapy.—This has a tinge of green and pink in the flesh, but still may be
legitimately classed among the white-fleshed sorts. It is of the sweetest flavour. Of
medium size, prolific, and will keep in good condition for a long time after it is ripe.
Well netted.

BRITISH QUEEN.—This also has a faint tinge of green in the flesh. It is one of the
best and most handsome. Rich primrose colour, well netted. F.C.C., R.H.S.

ROYAL SOVEREIGN.—A large, handsome melon, of delicious flavour, a heavy cropper,
good for exhibition or for market purposes. Award of Merit R.H.S.

SCARLET-FLEsH VARIETIES

BEAUTY OF SyON.—A variety of medium size, pleasing appearance, and excellent
flavour.

BLENHEIM ORANGE.—Still one of the very best in all respects.

FROGMORE SCARLET.—A handsome melon of oval shape, with very deep solid
flesh, of rich flavour. Densely netted.

GUNTON SCARLET.—A new variety of promise. ;

SCARLET PREMIER.—A well-known general favourite. It is without doubt among
the best.

READ’S SCARLET FLESH.—An old variety of medium size, and excellent in every
way.

MonstTERA DELICIOSA (see p. 214).

THE MULBERRY 89

THE MULBERRY

By GEORGE BUNYARD

This fruit is much appreciated, and, except in the northern parts of Britain,
it can be grown upon standard trees in the open garden.

Mulberry trees can be purchased of good size, and in transplanting it is
important to lay out the fleshy carrot-like roots their full length, not to cut
or shorten them. In dry weather the mulberry tree suffers very much after
removal, and a hay-band placed round the stem, and kept damp, is of great
assistance for the first year after planting. After being pruned into form for
one or two years, the trees naturally become shapely, developing handsome
round branched heads.

The stems are often split or damaged by frost, and large holes appear, but
these are soon covered up as the tree grows. In cold districts the mulberry
can be grown upon south walls, trained flat, the side shoots pruned so as to
form spurs, and also as a pot bush in the orchard house. Under favourable
conditions the fruit becomes large, and is delicious. It is usual to plant the
trees upon grass-land, and the grass not being too closely mown preyents
the ripe fruits bruising as they fall. The mulberry ripens from August to
October. The best variety is the black mulberry, the white mulberry is less
hardy ; the weeping Russian variety has small black fruits which ripen in July,
and are of a pleasant flavour.

CHAPTER X
THE NUT
By GEORGE BUNYARD

Cog nurs and filberts require more pruning and cutting than any other fruit
tree. When received from the nursery these trees have a small head upon a

PRUNED BRANCH OF Cos NuT

(a) Leader shortened to a wood bud with catkins produced from base ; (4) side
shoot or lateral closely spurred in; (c) side shoot shortened to a wood bud ;
(d) side shoot long pruned to secure catkins, the shoot having been broken
down in summer to concentrate energies in lower buds; (e) one-year-old
spur on two-year-old wood ; (/) shoot that has been broken down in summer
above pruning point, shortened to wood bud, with catkins at base ; (g) shoots
to be spur pruned ; (%) blossom buds in flower; (7) wood buds.

stem 12 to 15 inches high. This stem is provided in order that the ground

beneath the bush may be more readily tilled and kept free from weeds. They
go

‘UANWNWAS NI LAN gO

‘UTINIM NI (CANON ATINA LAK ION) LAN fo9

THE NUT gt

are planted as received, and after being allowed to grow for one year the shoots
are pruned closely, to make them throw out vigorous shoots to form the founda-
tion of the future tree. At the annual pruning, make the cut so that the ter-
minal shoot is produced from a bud pointing outwards; in course of time a
basin-shaped head of branches will result. The best shaped old trees I have
seen started with six shoots cut back to form twelve main branches; from
these, spurs or short shoots are given off, on which nuts are produced. If the
trees are well managed, when 100 years old they will be 15 to 20 feet across the
top, but not more than 54 feet from the ground. From the bent portion of the
main boughs a number of strong annual shoots are produced, which in Kent
are called wands. Some of these are taken out in summer for packing the
autumn fruit; in winter the remaining
ones are broken out, and either sold for
flower sticks or basket-making, or reserved
to pack the soft fruit of next season.

The male catkins of the cob and fil-
bert nuts are freely produced as early
as February on the upper parts of the
boughs, and should be allowed to remain
long enough to fertilise the tiny crimson
female flowers, which are produced on
the smaller boughs. When the weather is
very warm and still, it is advisable to tap
the branches with a stick to disperse the
pollen,

At the winter pruning the spurs are

GROWTHS FROM A SHOOT CLOSELY

thinned, and, if necessary, shortened. Old SPURRED IN WINTER

wood is removed, and the stronger growths | iui sunnier (A shart ainete-op

cut back and thinned, leaving the tree natural spur that need not be shortened in

tegularly balanced on all sides, allowing winter ; (2) vigorous growth broken down
sae : in summer, and cut to above third bud

the free admission of air and sun among from base in winter ; (/) shoot from

the branches. The foliage is larger on blossom bud bearing nuts, may be cut

away in winter to cross line.
pruned trees.

In July or August, if time permits, it greatly helps the tree to break off the
stronger shoots on the upper boughs (a sharp twist with the finger and thumb
being all that is required) ; this benefits the buds below the fracture and assists in
ripening the wood. It is found better than cutting, as the broken surface allows
the sap to exude, preventing the formation of a secondary growth, which would
weaken the bush and be of no value. In summer gross central shoots should be
cut away also. At the winter pruning the broken ends are severed with a sharp
knife. A careful pruner will always proceed so that there is an abundance
of fresh young wood in the trees ; and when a twig shows signs of age he
cuts so that a fresh one shall succeed it for next year’s fruiting: worn-out
twigs are thus never seen in old trees. Suckers from the roots should be hoed
off or severed with a sharp spade, and if well rooted may be reserved to make
future plants.

92 THE FRUIT GARDEN

Kent is noted for its fine nuts, and only because in that county a vigorous
system of pruning is carried out. Where the trees are allowed to grow
naturally and wildly the nuts are
small, and the crop is almost worth-
less. They respond to a liberal
treatment, and well repay for
manuring occasionally as well as
for the pruner’s labour.

FILBERTS

THE WHITE OR KENTISH. — The
nuts are of oval shape, small but very
richly flavoured. It is tender in damp
soils, and a shy bearer.

THE RED SKINNED.— A _ variety
which is of very rich flavour, but a shy
bearer. When fresh the skin is quite
red, the foliage being brownish green.

PROLIFIC OR FRIZZLED.—This is a
very handsome bunched variety, which
often has twelve fruits in a bunch. It
ripens before all the others, and is most
prolific and quite distinct. F.C.C. 1go1.

GROWTHS FROM SHOOT SHORTENED TO A

Woop Bup
(m) From blossom buds and bearing nuts; (vz) Cos Nuts
short stubby shoots from wood buds which being
mere short twigs need not be shortened at winter BERGEM.—-One of the best bearers.
pruning. The bunches are very handsome and

the nuts are large.

DUKE OF EDINBURGH.—This is a short nut with a very thick shell, and usually
produced in twos and threes ; of excellent flavour. F.C.C.

KENTISH COB OR LAMBERT’S.—This is the best for general culture. The nuts are
very large; the husk is wide, rather flat and deeply notched, and extends far beyond the
nut. It is very hardy, and may be grown in all situations, even on gravelly and stony
soils. Hundreds of tons are grown in Kent.

CosFORD Cos.—A variety with roundish nuts with a very thin shell and borne in
bunches of six ; of excellent flavour, and a free cropper.

MERVEILLE DE BOLLWYLLER.—The largest variety ; nut round with a thick shell ;
flavour excellent ; usually two nuts ina bunch. A very sturdy grower.

WEBB’S PRIZE.—This is a variety of the Kentish Cob, and generally produces larger
and more handsome bunches than the latter. Nut very similar; the husk is rather
longer,

PEARSON’S PROLIFIC.—Very similar to Cosford Cob.

WALNUTS

Walnut trees of good size, which bear well in from eight to twelve years, are
supplied from nurseries. The walnut will grow in all kinds of soil; where the
climate is too cold to ripen the nuts, these can be picked in a green state and
used for pickling. For this purpose the shell should not be hard ; a good test
is to try and pass a strong needle through them. On the Continent walnuts

Ala

AN OLIe NUT

THE NUT 93

are washed, and then put on a kiln with sulphur. This kills the germ, and thus
they keep better than the English nuts.

Cos-NUT TREE AFTER PRUNING, FouR YEARS OLD

(0) Terminal growths bearing catkins ; other growths are spurred in, though some may be
left long pruned for filling vacant space, or furnishing the tree with branches.

The thin-shelled English variety is considered a good one, but as this is raised from
seed it cannot always be depended upon.

The large French walnut succeeds in the warmer parts of England, but unless the
summer is a warm one it does not ripen well, and the edible part is only half formed. The
nut is very large.

Oranck, THE (see p. 205).

CHAPTER XI

THE PEACH AND NECTARINE UNDER GLASS

By OWEN THOMAS

Or all British-grown fruits few, if any, are more esteemed than the peach
and the nectarine. ;

Hisrory.—The peach boasts of a very ancient and interesting history.
Although the country to which it is indigenous is not known for certain,
it is generally believed to be a native of Persia. The peach tree is sup-
posed not to have been cultivated in England before the year 1562, but by
whom and whence it was first introduced we have no authentic record.
Gerarde, in 1597, describes the white peach, the red peach, and the yellow
peach, adding, “I have them all in my garden, with many other sorts.” From
this account, and finding it in the list of fruits published in the year 1557
by Thomas Tusser, who mentions peaches white and red, there can be little
doubt that it was introduced into England as early as the reign of Henry VIIL.,,
and probably from Italy, by Wolf, the king’s gardener, in the year 1524, as at this
time we find he brought the apricot from that country. Whichever country
may be the native home of the peach, and whoever may have had the honour
of introducing it into England, are points involved in considerable mystery,
and we pass from the historical part of our work to the more practical.

I propose to divide the subject of the cultivation of the peach into two parts:
first, under glass (the trees planted out); and, second, on walls out-of-doors.

Tue Housz.—The first thing to consider is the house in which the
peach trees are to be grown, and the most favourable position in the garden
which can be given to it. The size of the structure must be regulated
by the supplies required. The house that I would recommend for forcing
the earliest crops is a three-quarter span-roofed one. This form of house
admits of hearly as much light as a span-roofed house does, and is more easily
kept warm in winter by reason of the high back wall. It is important that the
roof of the house should have a steep pitch, at about an angle of 45 degs. Flat-
pitched roofs are to be avoided. Good peaches I know have been and are
grown in flat-roofed houses, but certainly better crops and finer fruit can be grown
with greater ease and certainty in steeply pitched ones. “Two methods of fixing
the trellis (upon which the trees are trained) are practised. One way is to fix
the trellis at a uniform distance of 2 feet below the roof. By this method all the
roof is utilised for the production of fruit, which is fully exposed to the sun and
light all day. The other plan, favoured by many, is the drum trellis, reaching

half-way up the roof. In this case the trees are planted against the back
94

THE PEACH AND NECTARINE 95

wall, and trained up as far as the apex of the hip-roof, and another set of
trees, planted on the low-front trellis, are kept purposely low in order not to
obstruct the light from those on the back wall. This enables the cultivator
to obtain a crop of fruits from the back wall, which the former plan does
not, and it also affords an opportunity of growing a greater number of varie-
ties in the same house, as more trees are required to furnish it. A longer
succession of fruit may be had from the same house by planting early,
mid-season, and late varieties.

VENTILATION.—Of late years so much thought and attention have been
devoted to the study of this question by enterprising horticultural builders, that
a cultivator contemplating the building of glass-houses for fruit-growing purposes
cannot do better than be guided by their experience and follow their advice.
Still, there are considerations bearing on the subject which appeal more directly
and with greater force to the cultivator than to the builder, and this is par-
ticularly the case with regard to winter and spring ventilation during forcing time.
The first point I would notice is the fact that for months together in the winter
and spring the ventilators are not required at all, for generally too much cold air
finds its way into the houses beneath the panes, be the house ever so carefully
glazed ; and this leads me to remark of the loss and waste in fuel caused by
badly fitted and warped ventilators, Another point worth noting is the fact
that front air in winter and early spring is now scarcely ever admitted by good
cultivators in early fruit forcing. Top ventilation in winter and spring, by
which means alone the temperature should be regulated, becomes of paramount
importance, and whenever possible, ventilators should be fixed which open
at either side, so that the panels can always be opened on the side opposite to
which the wind is blowing. In this way air can be admitted without at the
same time causing violent cold draughts. Means, of course, must be provided
for the admittance of plenty of air during summer. It is only as regards the
cautious use of it in winter and early spring that I have felt called upon to give
a word of warning, and this warning applies with equal force to other fruit trees
as well as the peach. ‘There is no rule without an exception, and I do not mean
to say that advantage should not be taken of a warm, sunny morning, when the
peach trees are in bloom, for instance, to admit a little front air for a short time,
if it can be done without lowering the temperature too much. Span-roofed
houses are much the best for producing peaches in summer and autumn. "The
ends should face north and south; the early lean-to houses, on the contrary,
should face due south.

Tue Borper.—An important item in the successful cultivation of the
peach is the construction of the border. To do this well begin by dig-
ging out all the soil inside the house to the depth of 2 feet 9 inches, and
similarly treat the outside border ; each border should be g feet wide, measuring
from the front wall of the house. Any clayey soil, or that which is poor,
must be removed, but any of good quality may be retained, and can be used
again when mixed with new soil in the formation of the border. Assuming
that the soil has been cleared away to the depth mentioned, the next question
to consider is that of drainage; first, lay the main drain (if one does not

96 THE FRUIT GARDEN

already exist) at the base of the border. It should empty itself at some con-
venient point of lower level. If the subsoil should prove to consist of stiff
clay or marl, it will be necessary to concrete the bottom to prevent the roots
from penetrating this undesirable medium. ‘The border must then be 3 feet
deep. If, on the contrary, the substratum should be of sandstone or chalk,
no concrete is necessary ; if it is found to consist of a good bed of gravel or
sand no other drainage will be necessary, neither would the main drain spoken
of be required. Artificial drainage, however, must be provided in most cases,
and the best way to secure this (after the main drain has been laid down) is by
laying 4-inch pipes at the bottom of the border, 4 feet apart, obliquely towards
the lower end of the main drain, and emptying into it. The bottom of the
border should be so formed, that there is a fall of at least 6 inches towards
the main drain. ‘The pipes should be covered with a layer of broken bricks,
stones, or such rough material as is at hand, and will carry water away rapidly.
I have no hesitation in condemning the making of large rich borders for the
planting of young fruit trees of any kind. Under this system I know they
will make remarkable growth for the first year or two, but this is at the
sacrifice of permanent success. The border I recommend should be first made
5 feet wide—2 feet wide inside, and 2 feet outside; the front wall must be
arched to allow of the roots spreading both inside and out. In commencing
to form the border place turves grass-side downwards over the drainage, and
build turf walls at the limits of the 5 feet wide border ; they should be parallel
to the wall of the house and 24 feet high.

Tue Sort.—The border should be formed of fairly heavy loam cut from
old pasture land. This should be stacked long enough to destroy the grass
roots, and no longer; a couple of months will suffice. When preparing the
turf for the border it should be chopped into pieces about 5 inches square,
and to each cartload of loam add a barrow-load of road scrapings, and the same
quantity of old mortar rubble, broken bricks, and a bag of j-inch bones.
I may here draw attention to a matter which has an important bearing on the
successful cultivation of the peach tree, and, indeed, I may say on all stone
fruits, that is, the necessity of the soil in which they are grown having a
liberal mixture of lime in its composition. This compost should be turned
over several times, and when well mixed placed loosely in the border between
the two turf walls. The soil must not be prepared when wet, nor should
it be very dry; it must be moistened if necessary to make it friable. Pre-
suming that the border is ready to receive the young trees, the next thing
to do is to find out how many trees will be required to fill the space at com-
mand. We will suppose that it is decided to plant the house as recommended,
namely, the back wall and front trellis, and as good trained trees can be had
for a few shillings, I would advise that tall standard trees be planted against
the back wall, say, at 10 feet apart, with dwarf fan-trained trees between
them ; a border should have been prepared for them in the manner advised for
the front border. By planting the standard and dwarf trees together, the wall
will be covered in two or three years with fruitful trees. Previous to planting,
a wire trellis should be fixed to the back wall. The wires (not galvanised)

“PEACH TREES ON BACK WALL OF GLASSHOUS

BE.

DAFFODILS AND PEACH TREES IN A MARKET NURSERY.

THE PEACH AND NECTARINE 97

should be fixed horizontally, 9 inches apart, and fastened to iron pegs driven in
the wall at a distance from it of 2 inches. ‘The front trellis should be made
of curved iron, should be fixed far enough from the front wall, so as to leave
room for a narrow path, wide enough only to admit of the person in charge
being able to attend to the trees in the way of tying, disbudding, syringing,
and gathering the fruit, &c. The wires of the trellis should be the same
distance apart, namely, 9g inches, and the trellis should be distant from the glass
at the centre 3 feet or more according to the size of the house, so that ample
light may be afforded the back wall trees. Where the one trellis system is
adopted, then 2 feet from the glass will be the proper distance for the trellis
to be fixed.

Roor-Pruninc.—Do not order the trees until everything has been made
quite ready for planting, for the young roots are liable to serious injury if left
exposed for any length of time; and even if carefully placed in soil to wait
some convenient time for planting, damage to some of the roots is sure to
follow. The trees I would recommend are fan-trained and three years old.
They should have five or six shoots of moderate size, and well ripened ; those
with gross and unripe growth are unsatisfactory. See also that the stem is
free from knots and bruises. Before planting carefully examine the roots, and
if any strong tap roots immediately below the stem are found, cut off to
within 7 inches of their bases. The difference in the mode of carrying out
this simple operation indicated will exercise a more or less controlling influence
on the tree for years afterwards. For instance, if the cut is made straight
across, or obliquely with the cut surface beneath, new roots which form may
grow down into the subsoil, thus aggravating the trouble it is desired to avoid.
An oblique upward cut will obviate this more or less, as the roots emanating from
such a cut will be more likely to extend in a horizontal or upward direction,
and, as a consequence, form useful surface roots, that all good cultivators
aim to secure. Some growers advocate the practice of bending the tap
root, without cutting at all, maintaining that by this method tap roots are
altogether got rid of, and that surface roots form from the tap roots when
so treated. Roots of secondary strength should be served in the same way
as advised for the tap roots, but leaving them about 15 inches long. From
these cut roots a number of new fibrous roots will arise. If strong roots
are not restricted and made to produce quantities of fibrous and useful roots,
they will soon ruin the best-formed tree by producing strong, succulent, and
barren branches ; branches, moreover, which will be subject to gumming and
canker, two dreaded maladies. Besides the tap and secondary roots which have
been considered, there should be a number of small healthy fibrous ones.
These must not be interfered with further than to cut out any which are
damaged.

Prantinc.—In filling up the narrow borders between the turf walls I
advised that the soil should be placed rather loosely and heaped up, so that at
planting time when pressed down it would fill the border to within about 2
inches of the surface of the turf wall. Presuming that the soil is neither
very wet nor very dry, it should be trodden down firmly, and the: trees

G

98 THE FRUIT GARDEN

planted from g to 10 feet apart according to the size of the house. The
act of planting in itself isa simple one. At the same time, there are certain
details to be observed in carrying out the work which, if neglected, will
adversely influence the future welfare of the tree. The soil in which the
tree is to be planted must be taken out to the depth of 7 inches, and to the
extent of about 2 feet square, or large enough for the roots to be extended
their full length. A small mound should be formed in the centre of the posi-
tion in which the tree is to be planted, to enable the planter to press the base
of the stem and roots well into the soil, and through the same pressure incline
the ends of the roots upwards. Place the tree in the hole prepared for it ; its
branches should be fastened to the lower side of the trellis so that the trees may
be trained below and not above this. It will be found that the roots are more
or less in layers, therefore the bottom layer must be first carefully covered with
the soil, working it among the roots with the hands, and making it firm as the

work proceeds. After the first layer of roots is

x disposed of, the next should be taken in hand and
—1 treated similarly. It is advisable to place a small

ridge of turf around the stem about 18 inches
» g from it, so that when watering takes place one
p ‘oO, may be sure it reaches the roots instead of filtering
Raven at ———— away into the soil of the border where there are
CHARACTERISTIC Woop Bups no roots, Give each tree a good watering a day
(#} Siitgle: wood bud: te} dounte OF TWO after planting, and here I should like to
bud——a wood bud with blossom impress on the cultivator to be most careful only
bud at its side; (7) triplebud— to water the trees where the roots are known to
a wood bud and two blossom ie Fal . .
buds—wood bud (in centre) be, that is, inside the small ridge of soil placed
Sees and pointed around the stem. ‘The soil in the remaining part
s short, bold, and

rounded: of the border where there are no roots must not
; receive any water until new roots are formed in
spring, and even then sparingly until summer, when copious waterings may be
given as the soil becomes dry. ‘The young trees may be temporarily tied down
to the trellis, but the final tying should not take place until early spring, just
before growth commences. We will presume that planting has been completed
about the end of October, which, in the case of all stone fruit trees, I consider
to be the best season of the year to carry out this work, either for trees under
glass or out-of-doors. At the same time, fruit trees may be planted with safety
between September and the end of February, or even into March, but the best

results are obtained from October and early November planting.
Pruninc.—Towards the middle of November the grower must decide
whether the trees are to be pruned or not—that is, if the young shoots are
to be cut back or left their full length. Many good cultivators will say that
the shoots must not be cut, arguing that the wood buds will break from point
to base of every shoot, thereby furnishing for next year’s crop many more fruit-
bearing shoots than can be expected from growths cut back to half their length,
as I am about to recommend they should be. Were it a question of which
system of pruning would secure to the grower the better result as regards the

THE PEACH AND NECTARINE

99

yield of fruit for the first year or two, I should decidedly favour the shoots being
left unpruned ; but when one considers that this is the time to form the founda-

tion of the tree, and that its future success for, say, thirty years
or more depends upon the method of early pruning, the import-
ance of the subject is apparent. In the culture of the peach
tree much difficulty is experienced in keeping the basal and
lower branches well furnished with fruit-bearing shoots. This
is occasioned in nine cases out of ten, in my, opinion, by not
cutting back the shoots of the young trees at the time of plant-
ing. I would recommend that each young shoot be cut back,
certainly half its length. This will cause growth from buds
near the stem, thus securing for future years an ample supply
of fruiting shoots at the base of the tree.

Here, for a moment, let me introduce the subject of insect
pests. As soon as the buds burst into growth, in nine cases
out of ten there also will be found green fly developing at the
same time. Let me urge cultivators to be vigilant in their

ws

CHARACTERISTIC
BLossom BuDs

search for the enemy, for, if once it is allowed to invade the (,) single; (2) double;

shoots in force, irretrievable damage will be done in an in-
credibly short time. The best way to circumvent its ravages
is to anticipate its visits. Therefore I would recommend that
the shoots be well washed with a solution of Gishurst com-
pound, rather weaker than recommended on the printed in-

(z) triple—all pro-
ducing blossom,
not any wood
growth, therefore
improper as prun-
ing buds.

structions, while growth is dormant in winter. This will, as a rule, destroy the

embryo fly ; if any are found upon the young growths, the best way to remove
them is by syringing with a weak solution of tobacco water. If effectually got

SHOOT OF PRECEDING SUMMER
PROPERLY SHORTENED (WILL

BEAR+FRUIT)

{v) Extremity single wood buds; (zw) extremity single blossom
buds ; (x) pruning to double bud, one a wood bud, and
the other a blossom bud; there must be a wood growth
on a level with or beyond the fruit to draw the sap; (¥)
basal buds from which a successional shoot must be
secured,

rid of at this stage, it is probable
that the trees will be more or
less free from fly throughout the
season.

DisguppINc. — Shoots _ will
develop rapidly on the young cut-
back branches, and as soon as
they are half an inch long dis-
budding must be commenced.
The cultivator must clearly un-
derstand which of the young
shoots are to be left to bear crops
of fruit the following year. The
basal shoot must be preserved, so
must also the terminal shoot on
the same branch. Leave also, at
first, three other shoots, about
equal distances apart between the

apical and basal ones; all must be on the upper side of the branch. After an
interval of ten days two more of the intervening shoots may be taken away,

100 THE FRUIT GARDEN

leaving only one midway between the top and bottom shoots; if several are
left they crowd the tree with useless growth. Among the wood-buds will be
found a few flower-buds; an effort should be made to fertilise the flowers
when they are open, by distributing the pollen when dry with a camel-hair
brush or a rabbit’s tail. The young tree may be allowed to bear a few fruits
the first year after planting, for the reason that this prevents coarse growth.

GENERAL TREATMENT.—When the tree-roots are active, and have ex-
tended beyond the limited space advised to be ridged in for watering, they
will soon take hold of the whole border, which should have a good soaking
of water. Throughout the year the space inside the ridge should receive two
waterings to every one given to the other part of the border, as in the first
season, most of the roots will be there. I do not advise the use of manure water
at all the first year. Speaking of watering, 1 may mention here what an im-
portant part this plays throughout the year in the successful cultivation of all
fruits, whether under glass or out-of-doors, and especially so during the summer
and autumn months ; and this remark, I think, is peculiarly applicable to the
peach. Let a peach tree bearing a good crop of fruit once become thoroughly
dry at the root, and all prospects of success for the season are over. “Therefore
let me urge my readers never to let the soil about the roots of their peach trees
become at all dry, and especially within 3 or 4 feet of the stem, where most
of the fibrous roots are. It must not be supposed, however, that I recommend
the border to be always wet. As some guide to the inexperienced, I may say
that all healthy peach trees, growing
freely and bearing good crops of fruit,
will need watering for a distance of 3
or 4 feet round the stem at least once
a week ; once in ten days or a fortnight
will be often enough to water the whole
border. When the trees are growing
freely they must be syringed morning and
afternoon, closing the house in the after-
FRUITING SHOOT WITH BUDS REMovep From noon while the sun retains sufficient

DINDERNEATH power to make the temperature rise to

Often desirable when blossom buds are very 75 OF 80 degs. for a short time. All

ne tere Cee ner bloom Jateral shoots must be stopped when they

have formed four or five leaves, and the

young branches encouraged to make good progress, for upon them will depend

next year’s crop of fruit. When growth is finished and the fruits (if any) are

gathered, the trees must have plenty of air night and day. Syringe occasionally,.
and as light and sun heat decrease give water less frequently.

SECOND YEAR’s ‘TREATMENT.—Instead of the five or six branches possessed
by the young peach tree when planted, it should have, twelve months after
planting, fifteen or eighteen, and if these are of moderate size and well
ripened, no pruning will be necessary, simply wash with Gishurst compound
before tying them to the trellis. If the summer treatment of the trees as regards.
disbudding and stopping the laterals was carefully attended to as directed,

THE PEACH AND NECTARINE IOI

practically no winter pruning will be necessary, It may happen that one or two
strong roots have grown from other gross roots cut back the previous year, pro-
ducing correspondingly strong branches. In such a case the best thing to do is
to lift the young tree and cut the offending roots as before advised. Some may
be surprised at my recommending the young trees to be lifted and replanted so
unceremoniously. It is, however, a simple operation requiring not more than
half-an-hour to carry out, and is most essential if the coarse roots are to be
effectually dealt with. Many good gardeners lift and replant their peach trees
every year, this method in some soils being the best to secure satisfactory
crops. ‘There will be little to do at the borders during this, the second winter
season. Simply remove a little of the surface soil, adding rather more of fresh
soil than you take away of old. After the trees have commenced to grow the
same routine of treatment must be observed throughout as advised for the first
year. If a “set”? has been secured (and this should be the case if care has
been taken to fertilise the flowers), I should certainly allow each tree to carry
at least a dozen fruits. If the tree is in good health these will ripen perfectly,
and at the same time will do good to the former. Even to young trees bearing
heavy crops of fruit it is astonishing how beneficial is a top dressing of fresh
horse manure mixed with an equal quantity of soil.

ENLARGING THE BorpER.—The routine of management in the third year
of the tree’s life will be very much like that of the second year, excepting
that the border, inside and outside the house, must be enlarged by the addi-
tion of 2 feet of soil. In adding new soil break down the old turf walls,
and remove the soil until the roots are reached. At the end of the third year
it will probably be found that there are too many trees in the house, and the
question must arise as to the best course to pursue. If all the trees are re-
tained it will become simply a matter of hard pruning, for further extension
is out of the question. For trees planted out in a good border, to my mind
there is not a question of doubt as to whether the restriction or the extension
system is preferable. By all means let the trees have room to grow. Where a
certain number of varieties must be grown in a limited space there is nothing
for it but to have recourse to frequent lifting or root-pruning, thereby restricting
the annual growth of the tree without appreciably diminishing its fruit-
producing capacity. On the other hand, where fruit of the first quality and in
abundance is required, this fact should be considered at planting time, and the
tree planted in the centre of the front trellis, as well as that planted in the
centre of the back wall, be looked upon as the permanent occupants of the
house. The other trees must be lifted and planted somewhere else, or it is not
difficult to find a market for them.

RenovaTinc O_p Trees.—It not infrequently happens that old-established
trees under glass fall into bad health. It will not be irrelevant, therefore, to
offer one or two practical suggestions as to the best way of bringing these
into a healthy and fruitful condition. In nearly every instance that has come
under my notice the trouble has been at the roots: the border was saturated or it
had been allowed to become dry, the soil was poor or needed lime—conditions
altogether inimical to the formation of fibrous roots. The best thing is to

102 THE FRUIT GARDEN

remove the soil of the border to within at least 3 or 4 feet of the tree stem.
In doing this many roots will be found, and must be carefully preserved. After
the old soil has been cleared away and the drainage made perfect, the border
may be partly re-filled with new soil, mixed as at first recommended. Among
the useful fibrous roots there will be found many long, bare, and useless ones.
These must be cut back half their length that young roots may spring from
them. The new border formed should extend only about 2 feet beyond the
roots. This will provide sufficient
new soil for at least one year.
Fresh soil can be added afterwards
as required. A good mulching of
horse manure and loam should be
given to the tree or trees thus
treated as soon as growth is active,
and if the work has been carefully
executed no great sacrifice of the

crop will result. Either before

(z) Disbudded shoots ; (a) growth to attract the sap to the oy after a severe root operation of
fruit, stopped; (4) successional bearing shoot to take 3 ; f aes

place in following year of that now fruiting. this sort has been performed it is

advisable to prune the branches
rather severely, cutting out altogether any lang, partly barren shoots, and shorten-
ing others which are likely to break freely, thereby helping to furnish the tree
again with fruitful and more compact branches. A tree thus treated must
be frequently syringed as soon as growth commences, and for some weeks
afterwards.

Various Mertuops or Traininc.—Of the various systems of training and
pruning the peach tree under glass which are occasionally practised, I have so
far only mentioned two, viz., with the curved front trellis and trellis on the
back wall, and with one trellis covering the whole of the roof from base to
summit. Another method of training the peach is upon a double upright trellis
arranged transversely in the house. I believe that the claim advanced in favour
of it is based principally on the theory that fruits are obtained from a larger
surface. “This cannot well be disputed, but it is open to question whether this
larger area of fruit-bearing surface is not obtained at the sacrifice of some of the
essentials of successful fruit culture, more especially heat and sunlight directly
upon the foliage and fruits. This method has been known for a long time, and
in these utilitarian days the public is not slow to take advantage of a good thing.
Seeing that it has only been adopted on a very limited scale, we may, I think,
reasonably conclude that it has failed to enlist the practical sympathy of growers.
Another system which finds some favour is to train the trees horizontally, as
usually practised with the pear tree on walls. When this system is adopted
spur-pruning is generally resorted to, but the current year’s shoots can also
be tied in to bear fruit the following season. I have tried this method of
culture for some years, but cannot recommend it. In narrow glass-houses,
where the peach trees are planted against the wall only, I have had much success
by training branches from the trees on the wall over the pathway and down the

DISBUDDED BRANCH AFTER
FRUIT IS ‘‘SET”

SHAUL HORA
PeAYPMd “ATMOING TIF AL FR YTAOD OL

THNIPUL-N Pol MavVaNPLS AN

HOVAd GANIVUL- NVA TACOW

THE PEACH AND NECTARINE 103

front of the house, at distances of 12 feet apart. Cordon trees are thus prac-
tically formed, and they invariably produce a good crop of excellent fruit,
without in any way impairing the fruit-bearing capacity of the trees on the
back wall.

GenERAL Remarxs.—When trees are carrying heavy crops of fruit, weak
manure water may be given at each watering, but as soon as the fruit com-
mences to ripen manure water must be withheld, and less copious supplies
given, although the trees must not at any time be allowed to suffer from dryness
at the roots ; use water the same temperature as that of the house. It will
have been observed that I have not advised organic manure to be added to the
peach border. The first consideration in making a border for fruit trees should

FRUITING BRANCH AND SUCCESSIONAL
FRUITING SHOOT

(c) Fruits ‘‘stoned,” two being ample to leave on a branch to secure good size and
quality ; (¢) shoot above the fruit, pinched first to three or four leaves, and after-
wards to one or tWo leaves ; (e) successional fruiting shoot ; (/) point of stopping
successional fruiting shoot when about 14 inches long; (g) lateral and sub-lateral
resulting ; (4) lateral on the successional fruiting shoot, stopped always to one
leaf or node, and in winter cut close to basal buds; (2) point of cutting out bear-
ing branch after fruit is gathered.

be what materials will best encourage the formation of fibrous roots; and to my
mind there is nothing so suitable as good loam, with the addition of ingredients
previously recommended to make it porous. If the border is well filled with
roots, liquid manure water may be given while the fruits are developing. I
have found diluted farmyard manure water the best stimulant, but it is well
to vary the manure by substituting at one time weak guano water, at another
time soot-water ; once or twice during summer the trees benefit greatly
by sprinkling the border with nitrate of soda. In applying stimulants the
grower should give them weak rather than strong; much damage has often
been done by using too much manure. When the fruit is gathered the trees
will be more or less exhausted, and a watering with liquid manure will do much
good.

THINNING THE Frurr.—Usually far more fruits are produced upon the trees
than should be allowed to ripen. As arule one fruit to each of the previous year’s

104 THE FRUIT GARDEN

growths will provide an excellent crop. On some of the stronger shoots two

may be allowed. There will then be about one fruit to each square foot of

branch surface ; with this number well grown and perfected every reasonable

cultivator will be well satisfied. Good colour is a great desideratum in the

peach, and to obtain this the fruit should be well exposed to the sunlight ; not

too soon, however, as I believe the young fruit develops better under the

partial shade of foliage. As soon as the stoning period of the fruits is over and

the latter are growing fast, they should be

fully exposed to the light. ‘The best way

to accomplish this is to place stiff twigs of

wood across the trellis from wire to wire

beneath the branch, and so bring the fruit

above the trellis, afterwards pushing aside

Sen any leaves which may overhang the fruit.

J When thinning the fruits, those below the

branches should be removed and those on

the upper side left; the latter can be more

easily exposed to the light. The stoning

period of the peach commences when the

fruit is about the size of a walnut, and will

LATERAL FROM AN EXTENSION BRANCH continue for about a fortnight or three

weeks, during which time the temperature

must be slightly lowered and more air

admitted. ‘Io ascertain when stoning is

completed cut a fruit, and if the stone is so hard that a knife will make no

impression, then it is safe to conclude that stoning is over, and the usual
conditions may again be provided.

TREATMENT OF Ripe Fruirs.—To the experienced cultivator, gathering,
harvesting, and disposing of the fruit will cause no anxiety, but to the
inexperienced a word of caution and advice is necessary. For a week or so
before the fruit is quite ripe, if the weather is very hot, place a net (single
thickness) upon the roof to prevent the fruit being burned and disfigured by
the sun. A net should also be suspended under the tree to receive any ripe
fruits which may not have been noticed when gathering. Many do not know
when to pluck a ripe peach from the tree. Knowledge of this description can
only be acquired by experience, and instruction in the matter is difficult to
convey. The general appearance of the fruit will indicate approaching ripe-
ness, but the final test must be that of the touch. The last portion of a
peach to ripen is that around the stalk, and to this part must be applied
the real test of ripeness. Should the flesh yield easily to the touch then the
fruit is ripe; if, on the other hand, it does not, gathering must be deferred.
Handle a ripe peach very lightly as the least unnecessary pressure will disfigure
it, taking away many points from its quality either as an exhibition or dessert
fruit. Never expose the ripening fruits to a chance of chill by unduly lower-
ing the temperature of the house, or place them when gathered in too low a
temperature.

(7) Point of pinching ; (2) point of winter
pruning.

THE PEACH AND NECTARINE 105

PACKING THE FRuir.—It is almost superfluous to remark that when peaches
have to be sent a long distance by road or rail they must be carefully packed.
How best to accomplish this work I will endeavour to show by detailing the
method practised successfully by me for a great number of years; this plan
was subjected to a test which was as severe as one could wish, namely, the
journey from Windsor to Balmoral, about six hundred miles, yet I have no

AN EXTENSION BRANCH

(2) Extension shoot or continuation of branch, just the unripe point being short-
ened or cut off at winter pruning, as it is very important to retain only well-
matured, short-jointed wood ; the dotted lines indicate continuation growth
furnishing side shoots in following summer ; (7) side shoots from preceding
year’s extension branch, properly shortened to 8 or not more than 12 inches;
(z) natural spur on previous year’s extension branch; (0) pinched spur cut
back; (#) bearing branch cut away after fruit gathered; (7) successional
bearing shoot properly shortened; (7) point of cutting off a lateral. The
numerals refer to the age of the branch; it will be noticed that the fruit is
produced on the wood of the preceding year’s growth, older wood being
retained only to provide next year’s bearing shoots and extension, the fruiting
wood is renewed annually. Spurs, or short stubby shoots, are not advisable
in the case of wall or trellis trees, though a few may be retained on the
extensions for bearing once, then cutting away. On bush, pyramid, and
standard trees, a larger number of spurs may be allowed.

recollection of receiving a complaint of the fruit having arrived in a damaged
condition. When the grower knows that he has to send ripe peaches a long
way by rail he must give careful consideration to the varieties he grows,
as some travel much better than others. For instance, the early American
varieties, such as Alexander and Waterloo, and some others introduced of
late years, have skins so thin and easily bruised that it is absolutely im-
possible to send them any distance without their suffering damage. Again,
peaches having to travel should be gathered before they are quite ripe, say

106 THE FRUIT GARDEN

at least a day earlier than if they were intended for consumption at home,
and if for a long journey two days earlier. The boxes I prefer for packing
peaches in are those 16 inches square, divided into sections 4 inches square
by thin boards as deep as the box, viz., 5 inches; each of these sections
will accommodate one peach. ‘The same boxes also answer well for packing
the choicest varieties of pears, and for nectarines, apricots, and choice dessert
plums, when two or three of the smaller fruits can be placed in one section.
Before packing begins as many sections of the boxes as are likely to be wanted
are partially filled with soft wood wool, enough to provide a base for the
fruit to rest upon. In packing, the fruit, if possible, should be graded, first
quality in one box, second and third in others, and each one labelled to this
effect. This prevents much confusion and rough usage of the boxes at the
destination. There is nothing better than common cotton wool for wrapping
around the fruit, the smooth side of the wool being
placed next the latter. The wool should be cut into
squares large enough to envelop the fruit; half the
thickness of the sheet of wool is sufficient to protect
it from injury, unless it happens to be very ripe, in
which case the wool should be used as it is. The
peach or nectarine should next be wrapped neatly in
tissue paper and placed in the box. When the box
is full, all space around the fruits must be carefully
filled with more wood wool ; place sufficient also upon
the top, that when the lid is put on the box, slight
pressure will have to be used in nailing it down, thus
making the packing so firm that oscillation or displace-
ment of the contents cannot possibly take place. A
word of caution may here be given against using too
many nails in fastening down the box. This only
THREE-YEAR-OLD Sipe _— causes useless labour and shaking of the fruit in un-
BRANEN packing. A strong case (the ends fastened with iron
(#) Point where bearing branch bands) large enough to hold three of the boxes of packed
was cut away after fruit ceuika : : Z ss
gathered; (x) branch that fruit is provided. When well secured in this case it is
bore fruit last summer, and practically impossible for them to suffer even with the
cut away when fruit gathered ; : . :
(v) successional - bearing rough usage they invariably, and, I am afraid, un-
shoot. Numbers give age avoidably, are subjected to at the hands of railway
aii employés. Here I may say a word about returning
empties. Non-attention to this work is the cause of endless trouble and
expense. ‘True, it is in a degree out of the power and jurisdiction of the
gardener to control this, but he may do much by impressing on those in authority
the importance of not only returning the packages with despatch, but also the
packing material, which can be used over and over again.

‘ITTV M HIAOS ¥ NO TOUOTD TVAOUY HOVAL

“TIFAL HLQOS NO 3AUL HOVAd GENIVULNVA GUVANVIS

THE PEACH AND NECTARINE 107

CULTURE ON WALLS OUT-OF-DOORS

Whether the climate in a certain district is favourable or not to the
culture of the peach out-of-doors will, as a rule, be well known to those
interested, and I need only say that, if the climate is favourable, let the other
adverse conditions, such as bad soil and inefficient drainage, be what they may,
they can be overcome in the way recommended for the culture of the peach
under glass. I think it may be safely affirmed that the culture of the peach out-
of-doors is less understood and its importance less appreciated by the present
than by the past generation of gardeners. In all the counties around London
the peach and nectarine will succeed admirably, as they will also in many places
on the south, east, and west coasts where protection from strong winds can be
given. In many of our inland counties, e.g. Worcester, Hereford, Berks, Surrey,
Middlesex, Bucks, and some of the midland counties, they thrive well, and
in many parts of Wales also may be most successfully grown. With regard
to trees against open walls, there is no occasion to go to such expense in
preparing the border for outside trees as recommended for trees under glass.
Provided the border is sufficiently drained and the natural soil is fairly good,
it will be necessary only to trench 2} feet deep, adding a barrowful of loam
where the young trees are to be planted, and a good dressing of farmyard
manure to the border generally, bearing in mind that heavy crops of vege-
tables or salads are grown there all the year round.

The aspect of the wall upon which the peach is grown should be
south, although the earlier and mid-season varieties will succeed on a wall
facing west or south-west, and trees in such positions will often prove useful in
extending the season of these ripe fruits. The distance between the trees when
planted should be regulated somewhat by the height of the wall ; for instance,
if against a 12-foot wall, dwarf fan-trained trees, three years old, should be
12 feet apart with tall standard trees between in order to fill the wall quickly ; if
the wall is only 9 feet high then 15 feet between each will do.

Natunc, &c.—It will be appropriate here to mention how the trees must
be permanently fastened to the wall. The old-fashioned way, and which
I still believe to be the best for many reasons, is nailing the shoots to the
wall with cloth shreds. The more modern way is to fix against the wall
a wire trellis to which the trees may be tied. Another method favoured
by some is the use of wall nails with pliable lead heads which can be
wrapped over the branch to secure it in the position desired without the
use of shreds. ‘There is no doubt much to be said in favour of each method.
The system of trellising the wall secures neatness, and possibly despatch by
saving time in training the trees in winter. Where this system is adopted the
wires should be ;4,-inch in thickness and 10 inches apart, and when fixed should
be distant from the wall at least 14 inches. The wires should not be galvanised,
for this has been proved in many instances to be inimical to the bark of the
young shoots. The objection I have to this system after considerable ex-

108 THE FRUIT GARDEN

perience is that the trees do not derive full benefit from the heat communicated
to the wall by the sun; the space between the foliage of the trees and the
wall allows a cold current of air to pass through, thus effectually annulling
any heat the wall may give, and neutralising the wall’s usefulness. ‘The
objection I have to the wall nail with the lead heads is this, if the lead is
pressed hard enough against the young branches of the trees at the winter
pruning and training to hold them securely in position, then gumming will
be caused before the end of the season by the lead cutting into the shoots. If
the lead is not pressed hard enough against the wood in winter, friction
and damage to bark will occur through oscillation of the branches. The old
way, and the one I recommend, namely, nailing with list shreds (not cloth),
certainly secures to the trees the full advantage of what heat the wall may
absorb, and this is one of the first objects in planting against a wall.
Another important item relating to the successful cultivation of the peach and
nectarine out-of-doors is the protection of the bloom from frost in spring.
Many different opinions are held on this question ; some advocate no protection
at all. Most of the peach walls at the Royal Gardens, Windsor, are protected
by portable glass copings, fastened to permanent brackets fixed to the wall.
To the copings and brackets are fastened roller blinds, which are let down
at night and rolled up during the day so long as danger from frost is feared,
they effectually protect the blossoms from any ordinarily severe frost. When
this danger is over the glass protection and the blinds are taken down. The
former are used to protect salad, strawberries, French beans, early peas, &c.,
and hasten maturity. ‘The canvas blinds are well dried and carefully stored
away ready for use another spring. Another simple and satisfactory method, and
the one most commonly practised, is to hang herring nets, two or three folds
thick, loosely against the wall. At the Royal Gardens, as I said before, most
of the peach walls were protected by glass copings and blinds, but there
were also peach walls which received no protection at all, so that I had
excellent means of comparing the results from well-protected walls and
those not protected. I am afraid that the statement I am about to make will
be received with a smile of incredulity by many. It is, taking an average of
five years, that as good crops were produced by trees on unprotected walls as
on those well protected. This does not prove much in favour of protection,
but it says a very great deal, I think, in encouragement of the more general
culture of these delicious fruits, as they may be successfully grown without
expensive protective material, or, in fact, any protection at all.

GENERAL CuLTuRAL RemMarks.—So important as regards the health and
fruitfulness of the trees is the danger from the attacks of green and black fly at
the time of flowering and immediately afterwards that I must be excused for
drawing attention to it again. As a means of affording immunity from their
early attacks I would recommend that the trees be washed when dormant in
January with a weak solution of Gishurst compound before being fastened to
the wall. Disbudding must have timely attention, and overcrowding the
shoots strictly guarded against. When the young shoots in the course of the
summer are fully grown, lateral growths will form ; these should all be cut out.

THE PEACH AND NECTARINE 109

Many cultivators fasten these shoots to the wall too early, more perhaps for
the sake of neatness than with any other object, but it is a practice inimical to
success, and which I would deprecate. Rather let the shoots, when reduced
to a suitable number and the laterals removed, be left untouched, for I am
convinced that the young peach fruits up to a certain stage enjoy the partial
shade of the loosely disposed branches, and in consequence become larger and
better. However, as soon as the fruits attain their full size and indications
of ripening are apparent, then these shoots must be fastened in. ‘The simplest
and best way to do this is to press the young shoots to the wall with hazel or
birch twigs about 6 or 7 inches long, fastening each end of the twig under
the older branches. ‘This. secures the shoots in position for the remainder of
the season. When doing this work, place the fruit in the best position as
regards exposure to the sun; herein, in my opinion, the nailing-to-the-wall
system possesses advantages which certainly cannot be claimed for the trellis,
in so far that the fruits actually nestle against the wall, and thereby fully enjoy
the sun heat. ‘The method of fastening the young branches requires neither
nailing nor tying, and is done in half the time that tying to a trellis would
entail. A difficulty is invariably experienced as regards the out-of-door peach
on walls in ripening the whole of the individual fruit at the same time : the side
exposed to the sun ripens earlier than that next the wall. ‘There is no way
that I know of entirely overcoming this difficulty, but it may be considerably
minimised by exposing all parts of the fruit to the sun’s influence as much
as possible, and by giving partial shade in very hot weather to the ripest portion.
I have found that if the fruits are placed in the fruit-room after harvesting they
ripen properly in three or four days.

' Fruit trees on walls are at a disadvantage as regards the quantity of rain
which finds its way to their roots in the course of the year when compared with
trees growing in the open ground. For instance, those planted against a south
wall get very little of the rain which may fall when the wind is in the north,
and not very much when the wind is east and west. ‘Therefore the deficiency
should be made good by artificial means. To make this effectual I would
advise that a ridge of soil be placed in front of the trees about 2 feet from the
wall so that a thorough saturation takes place. When the fruits are develop-
ing, weak manure water may with advantage be given every ten days or a
fortnight.

Winter Cutrure.—After the fruits are gathered and the leaves have
fallen, little remains to be done to the peach trees until pruning and nailing
time arrives early in the new year. As early in the autumn as a convenient
opportunity can be found, the border for about 2 feet from the wall should
be lightly forked over, the loose soil removed, and in its place some rich and
well-decomposed manure laid, about 3 inches deep; cover this again with soil,
and finally give a good soaking of water. The winter rains will carry the
manurial properties to the roots, recuperating the trees, and preparing them to
bear heavy crops of fruit the following year. I ought to say a word on the
winter pruning and training of the trees, although, as regards the former, if the
summer treatment has been practised as advised for the peach under glass, there

110 THE FRUIT GARDEN

will be little to do. Whatever the system of training, the principle to be
observed is the same, namely, first to place in position and secure the main
branches, forming, as it were, the foundation or framework of the tree. We
will suppose the tree to be fan-shaped. The first thing will be to bring the
two lowest branches to within a foot of the ground horizontally, and then to
place the other main branches obliquely at equal distances apart. The space
between the main branches will afterwards be filled in by minor branches
and young fruit-bearing shoots of the previous year’s growth.

Spur-Pruninc.—The peach is quite amenable to spur-pruning, as much so
as the pear or the plum, but it is seldom practised in its entirety, though useful
in conjunction with the more usual method. It often happens that there are
positions upon the main stems where it is inconvenient to have a shoot its full
length, yet desirable to have fruit, and it is here that spur-pruning is useful.
All we have to do is to cut the shoot back to three buds instead of tying it
down, and the foundation of the spur will be permanently laid.

BUSH AND STANDARD TREES IN THE OPEN

During the exceptionally hot seasons of 1899, 1900, and 1901, excellent
crops of well-ripened, good quality peaches and nectarines have been gathered
from young trees in the open in nurseries within thirty miles of London.
I have seen young trees of Pineapple Nectarine loaded with beautiful and
delicious fruits, and the same with Waterloo and other peaches. The subject
is an interesting one, and opens out a question of importance to fruit growers,
which, so far as I know, has never been seriously tried —whether by the selection
of varieties and suitable positions it is possible to make the culture of these fruits
in the open a profitable one. The experiment is well worth trying on a
limited scale. The fruits I have seen were excellent in quality and of good size.

Varieties.— The following varieties are best suited for culture on walls and
under glass. “Those most suitable for small collections have an asterisk placed
against them :—

PEACHES FOR CULTURE UNDER GLAss

VERY EARLY.—Alexander, Waterloo, Early Beatrice, Early Louise. One tree of
each of the above varieties is quite enough to plant in a small collection, as earliness
is their chief recommendation.

A menace of York, Amsden June, Early Ascot, Grosse Mignonne, Dymond,
ondor.

MID-SEASON.—Crimson Galande, Royal George, Stirling Castle, Bellegarde, Violette
Flative, Noblesse, Goshawk, Raymaekers.

LatE.—Barrington, Princess of Wales, Gladstone, Nectarine Peach, Sea Eagle,
Walburton Admirable, The Salway.

PreacuEs FoR Watts QOurt-or-Doors

EarLy.—*Alevander, Waterloo, Early Beatrice, Early Louise, *Early Rivers,

* Duchess of York, Rivers Early York,* Amsden June, *Early Ascot, Grosse Mignonne,
Condor, Hale's Early, Abec.

THE PEACH AND NECTARINE III

MID-SEASON.—Crimson Galande, *Royal George, *Stirling Castle, Bellegarde,
*Noblesse, Goshawk, *haymaekers, Dymona, Dr. Hogg.

LatE—Barrington, Prince of Wales, *Princess of Wales, *Gladstone, Nectarine
Peach, *Sea Eagle,*Walburton Admirable, The Salway.

NECTARINES FOR CULTURE UNDER GLass

EARLY.—Cardinal, Précoce de Croncels, Early Rivers, Lord Napier, Rivers’ Early
Orange, Stanwick Elruge.

MID-SEASON.—Pineapple, Violette Hitive, Downton, Hardwicke Seedling, Spenser,
Elruge.

Latest.—Dryden, Byron, Humboldt, Victoria.

NEcTraARINES FOR WaLls Ouvut-or-Doors

Précoce de Croncels,*Early Rivers,*Lord Napier, Rivers’ Early Orange, * Violette
fative, *Elruge and Stanwick Elruge, Downton, *Hardwicke Seedling, *Spenser,
Dryden, Byron, *Humboldt, Victoria.

These Nectarines are placed in the order of ripening.

PEACH AND NECTARINE CULTURE UNDER GLASS
FOR MARKET

This has now become an important and successful industry, many acres
of glass-houses being devoted to the culture of these popular fruits to meet
the growing demands of the London and other markets. Too be successful it
is an industry which should be conducted on a fairly large scale, and to
this end span-roofed houses of large dimensions should be erected. Those
180 feet long by 24 feet wide answer the purpose admirably. It is not neces-
sary to refer here to matters of cultivation or packing, as these subjects else-
where receive full attention; the principles of good culture are the same
whether the fruits are for commercial or private use. The following varieties
are found to be the most reliable and profitable to grow for market. They are
arranged in the order of ripening :—

PEACHES.—Very Early: Amsden June, Duchess of York, Alexander, Condor, Abec.
Early: Dr. Hogg, Crimson Galande, Royal George, Dymond, Goshawk, Large Early
Mignonne. Late: Late Devonian, Princess of Wales, Prince of Wales, Exquisite, Bar-
rington, Sea Eagle, Gladstone.

NECTARINES.—Very Early : Cardinal, Early Rivers, Rivers’ Early Orange, Elruge.
Early: Lord Napier, Stanwick Elruge, Elruge. Late: Pineapple, Spenser, Victoria.

THE BEST PEACHES
By GEORGE BUNYARD

Peaches and nectarines are most difficult to name. It is necessary to know
if the blossoms are large or small, if the leaves have kidney-shaped or round
glands at their bases, or whether the glands are wanting.

ALEXANDER.—Fruit small, flat with deep suture on one side ; féesh whitish ; skin
deep blood red with yellow on shaded portion ; stome very small. One of the earliest

112 THE FRUIT GARDEN

to ripen. Juicy and refreshing, but not so richly flavoured as the later sorts. Leaf
glands round; flowers large, pale rose, with darker eye. F.C.C. 1883.

ALEXANDRA NOBLESSE.—This is perhaps the sweetest and most delicious peach
grown. Fyuzts from indoors are pale primrose colour, and the sm is very thin.
Flowers do not “set” freely. It isa good grower. Some fruits may have a soft pale
red skin ; flesh primrose colour, veined red next the stone; leaf glands small, round ;
Jiowers large, palest blush.

AMSDEN JUNE.—This differs from Waterloo only in foliage; the flowers, however,
have the merit of setting more freely when forced. The /rw7¢ is sweeter than Waterloo, .
flat, and mottled deep redin places. Leaf glands round; flowers large, bright pale rose,
with dark eye ; sé7z downy. A.M. 1892.

BARRINGTON.—Frwit large; suture small; skin rough; colour very pale yellow,
mottled with red and deep crimson; flesh juicy, white, shghtly red near the stone;
flavour vinous, rich, and melting. A very fine hardy, rather late fruit. Leaf glands
round; flowers large ; growth vigorous and hardy. Excellent in all forms.

BELLEGARDE.—Swu/ure regular, slightly depressed; sz dark primrose with rosy
red cheek (mottled with deeper red under orchard-house culture), on open walls fully
exposed it becomes black red, downy, peeling freely ; flesh juicy, pale primrose, melt-
ing, more or less red near the stone; flavour delicious, very rich, certainly one
of the finest grown; free stone; the stove is sharply pointed at the stalk end. We
give rather a longer description of this grand peach than of others, because it is alto-
gether first-rate. It must not be confounded with Violet Hative, English Galande, or
English Bellegarde. Growth vigorous, cropping freely ; foliage bold ; leaf glands very
small, round ; flowers small, dull flesh-colour.

Convor.—Fruzt downy ; suture wide, with edges rounded; s&z deep blood red,
primrose on shaded side, speckled with red ; free stone; sh milk white, whiter round
the stone, which is small, firm ; flavour rich and almond-like, bitter when fruit is not
fully ripe. A very hardy free-bearing variety, for mid-season culture. Leaf glands
kidney-shaped to round ; flowers large.

CRIMSON GALANDE.— Suture all round the fruit ; colour greenish yellow shaded and
mottled with deep crimson, shading to blackish crimson ; flesh greenish yellow, bright
carmine near the stone, which is small; mealy when fully ripe; favour brisk; skin
thick, peeling readily, downy. A very large variety which is valuable for main crop.
Bears very freely, and is largely cultivated for the markets. Leaf glands round; flowers
small, salmon red ; folzage bold.

DUCHESS OF CORNWALL.—Swture shallow and broad ; s#/7 primrose on shaded side,
striped and blotched with red; s¢ome small, free; flesh juicy, melting, with a smack of
nectarine flavour. This is expected to be an improvement on the early American sorts.
Forces well. Leaf glands kidney-shaped; flowers very large, rose-coloured, and “set”
freely. A.M. Igor.

DUCHESS OF YORK.—This fine late peach raised by Mr. Divers at Ketton Hall is
not yet in commerce, but we believe it will prove a valuable and hardy variety of the
Late Admirable race. Leaf glands none. A.M. 1893.

DyMoND.—Suéure marked on one side; ‘séz7 greenish yellow, covered with rich
bright yellow on sunny side, soft and downy ; _//esk melting, greenish white, bright carmine
red near the very small stone; free stone; favour brisk and nectarine-like. A very
fine large variety. Leaf glands none; flowers pale rose, very large; folzage very bold.

EARLY ALFRED.—Resembles Early York, and ripens at the same season. Hasa rich,
brisk flavour, and is very juicy. The tree is robust, short-jointed and very hardy, and
bears freely. Leaf glands none; flowers large.

EARLY GROSSE MIGNONNE.—Séinz downy, pale red on sunny side dotted with
crimson ; jlesh deep red near the stone, with red veins running towards the skin; favour
rich and vinous, particularly agreeable. A most exquisite peach following the second
early varieties; foliage flaccid, long and drooping; /eaf glands very small, round;
frowers large, rose.

GOLDEN EAGLE.—A very late yellow-fleshed variety ; /ruz¢s very downy, flat, dull

THE PEACH AND NECTARINE 113

golden, with coppery coloured cheek. It is large and clearer in colour under glass ;
foliage very large, with a golden tinge. Although an October peach it ripens perfectly.
Leaf glands kidney-shaped ; flowers small, salmon red.

GOSHAWK.—A very fine mid-season variety of vigorous growth. It attains a large
size, and is one of the most handsome for outside culture, and extra fine under glass.
Skin greenish white, mottled with spots on a dull red. ground ; flavour very brisk ; flesh
juicy and melting; the /ruz¢ closely resembles Dymond, but isa little later ; leaf glands
none ; foliage bold, wrinkled ; flowers large, rich rose with dark eye.

GROSSE MIGNONNE.—Sézm very thin and downy ; colour pale primrose, with a bright
rosy cheek mottled with silvery spots, and sometimes with a dark crimson flush ; flesh
juicy, entirely pale primrose ; stone small; flavour very brisk, rich; free stone ; leaf
glands round and small ; flowers large.

HALE’s EARLY.—F7ruit rather long and pointed, terminating in a prominent nipple ;
sucure deep and narrow ; skn downy ; colour bright red, with blood-red blotches ; flesh
juicy, palest yellow, faintly red near the stone, separating from it freely ; flavour
brisk, rich, and quite first-rate ; /eaf glands round ; flowers large, bright rose ; growth
moderate.

Lapy| PALMERSTON.—/7uzt very large, rather flat. S22 woolly, of a bright golden
colour, sometimes marbled with crimson. A noble fruit for a late crop under glass ;
except in good seasons it does not ripen well outside; free stone; favour pleasant
and good for its season; /eaf glands large, kidney-shaped ; flowers small, dull flesh
colour ; foliage very large and handsome.

LaTE DEVONIAN.—Suture very deep and narrow; skim woolly rather than downy ;
colour pale primrose green, with bright red marblings and deep crimson blotches on the
exposed side ; /lesh juicy, pale red at the stone; free stone ; favour brisk, rich, and
melting ; a fine, late, very hardy sort, and a free bearer; leaf glands round; flowers
large, rich pink. F.C.C. 1894.

NECTARINE PEACH.—A good late variety. Sz very woolly, greenish white, with
marblings of bright red and deep crimson, greenish on shady side; _jesh juicy, white and
translucent, deep red next the stone, from which it separates readily ; favour brisk ; leaf
glands kidney-shaped and quite small ; fowers large.

NOBLESSE.—S£zz downy, pale lemon yellow, sometimes a little shaded with red ;
Jlesh very juicy and melting, palest primrose, slightly reddened at the stone ; favour
sweet, rich. One of the best-flavoured peaches. The tree grows well, but it does not
bear very freely. Leaf glands none ; flowers large and pale blush.

PRINCE OF WALES.— Suture marked ; s&zz pale green, striped and mottled with red,
when grown outdoors rich dark crimson. A very fine rather late peach, which fruits
freely and is useful for outdoor and pot culture. /7x/¢ pointed, large, and of nectarine
flavour, juicy, and very rich; leaf glands round, flowers large, dull salmon red.

PRINCESS OF WALES.—Su¢urve deep and narrow on one side of the fruit only; ska
velvety ; colour pale lemon and green, blotched with pale rose and spotted with red;
Siesh juicy, very white, and quite deep red near the stone ; favour very brisk, and refresh-
ing, with a pleasant acidity. The skin separates readily, the stone leaves the fruit easily
(free stone), and is very small for the size of the fruit. A grand late fruit. Leaf glands
round ; flowers very large, pale rose.

RIVERS’ EARLY YORK.—Swture wide, on one side only; s&” deep greenish yellow
covered with pale carmine on sunny side, downy ; free stone; flesh whitish, faintly red near
the stone, which is large ; flavour brisk and vinous. A very fine second-early fruit, bearing
freely. Tree hardy. Leaf glands kidney to round; flowers large, very bright rose, dark
eye. This is better than the old Early York, which has no leaf glands. F.C.C. 1867.

RoyaL GEORGE.—An old and justly esteemed variety. It is grand under glass;
when well thinned the fruits grow to a large size. S#cz thin, very deep blood red with
pale yellow on shaded side; flesh palest yellow, nearly white, very bright red near the
stone; growth vigorous. Bears freely, forces readily, and seldom fails. Leaf glands
none ; flowers small, dull salmon red ; foliage wrinkled, bold.

SEA EAGLE.— Suture rather shallow and wide on both sides of the fruit; sk” very

H

114 THE FRUIT GARDEN

downy, almost woolly; colour pale lemon green, with minute red spots and large blotches
of red ; flesh juicy, palest green flushed bright red, deep red near the stone; flavour,
when well-grown under glass, rich, not so good from outside trees. A very hard, large
late fruit, valuable for its heavy crop. Leaf glands round; flowers large, rose; growth
very free and robust; fo/dage very large. A favourite with the market growers.

STIRLING CaSTLE.—Suture deep and broad, running all round the fruit ; s42# pink,
covered with deep red in blotches ; flesh melting, juicy, pale greenish white, deep crimson
next the stone, which is small ; free stone ; favour rich, vinous, and refreshing. On
walls or in peach-houses the fruit is a much darker colour, nearly black, rather rough to
the touch. Tree hardy, and bears freely. Leaf glands round ; flowers small.

Tuomas RivERS.—A very handsome, large, round fruit, ripening at the end of Sep-
tember ; free stone ; sz downy, with a brilliant red flush. It is yet new, but has
been very highly spoken of by those who have tested it. Leaf glands none ; flowers
large, bright rose ; gvowzh vigorous, forces well. F.C.C. 1898.

VIOLETTE HAtivE.—Séin downy, of a pale green flushed with rosy red, and marbled
with chocolate red. A grand mid-season peach, and one of the finest flavoured ; bears
moderately. Flesh tender, white, very juicy and melting ; /eaf glands round ; flowers
large, dull pink.

WALBURTON ADMIRABLE.—Fruit terminating in a nipple ; sa¢uve broad, and deep
on one side; skin velvety ; flesh juicy, white, deeply starred at the stone with dark
crimson ; flavour very rich and vinous in fruits under glass ; s/ove very rough, separating
freely from the flesh. A valuable late variety. The fruit is very large, but the tree does
not bear freely ; 2eaf glands round ; flowers small. ;

WaTERLOO.— Fruit flattish, of medium size ; sz¢ure marked ; colour primrose, with
deep crimson cheek, almost black on fruits grown outside ; flesh sweet, juicy, and good
for such an early variety ; /eaf glands large ; Howers large pale rose, with dark eye.

Dagmar, Doctor Hogg, and Early Louise are excellent peaches when grown under
glass, but they are very tender outside. Lord Palmerston and Exquisite are very large
and handsome yellow varieties which ripen late, but unless under exceptional cultivation
are not worth eating.

AMERICAN PEACHES (Alexander, Amsden June, and Waterloo).—Some cultivators
do not succeed with these when forced early, because they keep them too warm at
starting. They should have a moderate heat till the blooms are “set,” the temperature
can be then increased, and the fruits develop quickly.

THE BEST NECTARINES

CARDINAL.— Suture well defined ; skin pale greenish yellow, marbled with salmon
red, white patches showing in a net-like form ; flesh pale greenish white, and very juicy ;
stone large, cling stone; flavour brisk, refreshing. A remarkably free-bearing first
early variety, very valuable for forcing and pot culture. Leaf glands kidney-shaped ;
flowers large, pale rose. F.C.C. 1896.

DRYDEN.—Sfin almost entirely covered with deep chocolate red, with pale green
showing between; /sh yellowish white, and very juicy, pale red around the stone,
parting freely from a small flattish stone ; favour rich, almond-like, refreshing. One of
the finest sorts for late and mid-season crops. Leaf glands kidney-shaped ; flowers
small, dull salmon red. The tree is vigorous, hardy, and succeeds in all forms.

EARLY Rivers,—One of the best Nectarines, often reaching 8 oz. in weight. Its
skin is almost shining, bright red, pale greenish yellow on the shaded side. Flesh
greenish. The fruits are very juicy, and have a brisk flavour. A very free bearer. Lea/
glands kidney-shaped ; flowers large, pale rose ; growth vigorous. F.C.C, 1892.

ELRUGE.— Suture rather broad ; s&iz greenish yellow, mottled with brick red, crimson
on sunny side; flesh greenish, very juicy, with bright pale red near the stone ; free
stone ; flavour rich and brisk. A hardy sort for main crop. Leaf glands kidney-
shaped ; flowers small, dull salmon red.

‘LAMNUFIW YO GAINOVA YwatIdVN GQYOT ANINPLOZN

THE PEACH AND NECTARINE ers

HARDWICKE'S.—Fruit large and richly flavoured. It resembles Elruge, but is much
larger and darker in colour. Flesh greenish, reddish near the stone, The tree is very
robust and hardy. One of the best white-fleshed Nectarines. Leaf glands none ; flowers
large, foliage bold.

HUMBOLDT.—F7wit terminates in a nipple ; suture deep and broad on one side only ;
skin deep chocolate-crimson, with patches of golden russet ; flesh deep golden, juicy ;
flavour rich ; cling stone. One of the best golden varieties, bears freely and succeeds
on open walls, giving a good crop of large fruits ; very fine as a pot tree. Leaf glands
kidney-shaped to round ; fowers large, very beautiful, deep rose, showy. Worth culture
for its blossoms alone.

LORD NaPIER.—One of the finest early sorts. The /ruz? is often very large, primrose
and green on the shaded side, with a dull red cheek spotted with gold. Flavour piquant ;
Jlesh very juicy. The sm is very tender, and in hot weather it is well to shade the
fruits. Leaf glands kidney-shaped ; flowers large, pale rose. F.C.C. 1877.

NEWTON.—Suture shallow; skiz pale greenish yellow, marbled with patches of
brownish red and déep crimson, broken by pale spots; flesh greenish yellow, with pale
red neat the stone, very juicy and melting; favour rich and almond-like ; free stone;
a valuable large late fruit ; tree hardy and short-jointed in growth ; /eaf glands round to
kidney-shaped ; fowers small.

PINE APPLE.—Suture on one side only; s&zz deep orange crimson; flesh yellow to
orange, marbled with red near the small and also deeply furrowed stone, firm, rather
glutinous in texture ; favour rich, sugary ; leaf glands round ; flowers large, very hand-
some, rich rose with dark eye. A rather tender variety, of splendid quality when grown
under glass.

PITMASTON ORANGE.—One of the finest yellow-fleshed sorts; the sézm is deep
orange almost covered with deep mahogany red, marbled with golden patches and dots ;
flesh rich and deep yellow, of very fine flavour, rather tender outside; stone deeply
indented ; leaf glands round; flowers large, rich rose, abundant ; foldage with golden
tinge.
vee “ORANGE.— Suture shallow all round the fruit; colour deep chocolate red,
with golden dots on the sunny side, blotched with crimson and russet patches; golden
on shaded side ; flesh dull orange with crimson specks near the stone, which is small
(free stone) ; favour rich, almond-like, and half-sugary; a fine but rather tender variety,
safest under glass culture; leaf glands round ; flowers large and beautiful, rich rose with
dark eye ; folzage in autumn has a yellow tinge.

STANWICK ELRUGE.—Similar to Elruge, but rather later, and a deeper red colour
with more russet; favour rich, vinous; growth free, very hardy, free bearer; leaf
glands round ; flowers small; excellent for pots. ;

SPENCER.—A fine large late variety, rather flat; suture very deep; skin almost
covered with dark crimson, and bronzy red on the sunny side; fesh very dark red near
the stone; leaf glands round and kidney-shaped; flowers large. One of the best
flavoured.

VICTORIA.—A very large and late pointed green fruit, with slight shading of dark
chocolate red on sunny side; sz/ure very marked ; it does not always ripen well on walls,
but is extra fine under glass culture and of the most luscious flavour; /eaf glands kidney-

shaped; flowers large; growth very vigorous. F.C.C. 1861.

CHAPTER XII

THE PEAR

By OWEN THOMAS

Pustic attention of late years has certainly been more directed towards the
importance of the minor industries of the land, both in connexion with the
garden and the farm, as bearing on the national food supply and the well-being
and happiness of our rural population. As one of these minor industries, pear
culture, I think, may lay claim to be most important. There has been an
impression that pears of the highest quality cannot be grown in England, but
must be sought for in France and the Channel Islands. It is a fact, I admit,
that the pears from these places exhibited in our markets and fruiterers’ windows
are of finer appearance, and sometimes of better quality than those English
grown ; and it may be reasonably asked, why is this so? Most would, I have
no doubt, answer this question offhand by saying that the climate of these
countries, being warmer and more suitable for the culture of the pear, is entirely
accountable. I have visited the pear gardens both of France and the Channel
Islands, where I had an opportunity of witnessing the systems adopted of grow-
ing this fruit, to which as much care, attention, and patience are devoted as we
give to our choicest fruits under glass in Britain; not only in growing the fruit
is this great care manifested, but in harvesting, packing, and marketing also.
How does the care and attention given to the cultivation of the pear in this country
compare! I regret to say there is no comparison whatever. In England the
culture of the pear has never been treated seriously except in Hereford, Wor-
cester, Kent, and a few other counties where orchards exist for the purpose of
furnishing fruit for the manufacture of perry. Those growers who have taken
the pear in hand for commercial purposes on a large scale in this country are
very few indeed, and even in private gardens not many gardeners have
given that time and thought to the subject which is absolutely necessary if the
best results are to be obtained. Judging from the few pear orchards that still
exist in the neighbourhood of London and other favourable districts, our fore-
fathers thought a great deal more of this fruit than we of the present generation
do. Many of these old pear trees are of huge size and great age, and all on
the pear stock. They have received hardly any attention as regards manuring,
pruning, or thinning the fruit, yet it is largely from these that pears are supplied
to our poorer markets, and even the half-grown, bruised, and fallen fruits
command a ready sale at fair and remunerative prices. It is clear that if English
cultivators are to compete with success against French and Channel Island

growers, greater care and skill must be given to the industry. The relative
116

‘MOSSOTY NI FANL UPAd GHNIFYUL-NFA

THE PEAR 117

excellence of English and Jersey pears was forcibly brought out at the great
Hardy Fruit Show held by the Royal Horticultural Society at the Crystal
Palace in 1901, where an excellent collection of hardy fruit, chiefly pears, was
exhibited by a Jersey firm. Excepting a few dishes where the specimens were
larger, the best English samples on view were equal in every respect to the
Jersey ones.

A great improvement in the methods of cultivating the pear has been quietly
taking place for years—ever since the Quince has been substituted for the Pear
stock for grafting and budding. It is an old saying (and was a true one) that
“he who plants pears plants for his heirs.” This no longer is the case, how-
ever, as the pear worked on the Quince will yield fruit in half the time it
takes when grown on the Pear stock. This fact has already done much to
encourage pear tree planting, and has resulted in a generally improved quality
in the fruit. Another point of importance is that the old belief that a warm
wall was absolutely necessary for successful pear culture is exploded; it has
been proved that a great number of our choicest varieties, formerly thought
to require a wall to bring them to perfection, can be grown better, certainly as
regards flavour, in the open garden; and this fact when widely known will, I
trust, be the means of increasing pear growers in this country a hundred-fold,
especially in the warmer counties where conditions are favourable.

PEAR TREES ON WALLS

Although, as I have already stated, a wall is now proved not to be
indispensable to successful pear culture, there are varieties of great excellence
which can only be grown successfully on walls, even in the south of England ;
in the Midlands and the north the wall would be still more necessary.

Som.—The first question to engage the planter’s attention must be the
nature of the soil he has to deal with, and, next, the drainage. Should the land
be either heavy clay or poor light soil it should be cleared away to a depth of
24 feet and g feet wide for each tree, and filled in again with good turf. Add
a small quantity of road scrapings, lime and mortar rubble, two barrow-loads of
horse manure, and one bushel of }-inch bone manure to each cartload of soil.
The turf should be left in pieces the size of half a brick; mix the soil well
before planting. This amount of soil will suffice for the tree’s requirements
for many years. If the existing soil is good the land should be trenched 2} feet
deep and 9g feet wide, some of the worst soil thrown out, and fresh soil mixed
as advised above. Keep the new soil fairly near the surface. Should the
drainage be unsatisfactory, then means must be taken to improve it as advised
for peach borders.

Forms oF TreEs.—Horizontal and fan-trained trees are usually planted
against walls, and of the two I prefer the latter, as I believe a more regular and
better crop is obtained by this mode of training, especially when the trees become
old. However, the pear succeeds well both ways. Where the land is poor and
light and the wall of a good height, and one wishes the tree to cover a large

118 THE FRUIT GARDEN

space, one worked on the Pear stock should be planted; but if the land is
heavy, then the Quince stock is to be preferred. The roots of the former
are strong, and have a tendency to penetrate deeply into the soil, which in the
case of light land is an advantage, whereas the roots of trees worked on the
Quince keep near the surface, and on cold and heavy soils the danger of many

2. |

! a
: rae?
: SS
z y Res hf [the J
4 L ! as / Fi [a t 7
ee ae eee

ForMS OF PEAR TREES FOR WALLS AND ESPALIERS

1. ‘‘Toasting Fork” tree first year after cutting down maiden tree; (0) point of cutting maiden
tree, 1 foot from ground ; (#) growth from uppermost bud in following spring, which must
be topped at about 12 inches, in midsummer; of the shoots that push afterwards the
uppermost should be trained upright, pinching others to one leaf; (g) side growths not
stopped, but trained full length, and when about a foot long trained upright. In autumn the
tree has three branches. Such form has received the fanciful name of ‘‘ Toasting Fork."
The chief thing to aim at in these trees is equality of vigour, this being effected by stopping
the strongest or all the three branches when about r2 inches long, training one of the
shoots that push as an extension, suppressing all side growths at the third leaf, and cutting
back to one in winter. It is a usefu! form for pillars, also when space is limited, or variety
is required on low walls or espaliers. 2. Candelabra tree; (7) point of cutting back
maiden tree originating three growths; one is trained upright, and one on each side;
(s) point of shortening leader at second winter pruning, again originating three growths to
form the tree of five branches. This form also represents the horizontal and upright modes
of training combined. The branches are originated and trained on the principle of the
“Toasting Fork” tree. When the two lowest horizontal branches have extended 2 feet from
the stem, they are trained upright, and the second tier of horizontal branches is trained
upright x foot on either side of the stem; by suppressing the leader the side branches
acquire vigour, so that all are ultimately on a level. 3. Palmette Verrier tree; (¢) point of
first pruning ; (z) second shortening; (v) third pruning. The Palmette Verrier is simply
the ‘Toasting Fork" and ‘‘ Candelabra” extended. Two side branches are originated
each year, and these are trained horizontally at 1 foot apart until a sufficient number is
obtained to cover the allotted space; the vertical training is facilitated by temporary wires
affixed to the trellis, as shown. The object of the Palmette Verrier is to secure as much
vigour in the lower branches as in the higher ones. It is a pleasing and productive form for
espaliers and walls. Numerals refer to age of wood.£

of the best roots penetrating deeply is avoided. In planting fruit trees it is
a safe plan to place them the same depth in the ground as they were in the
nursery, and this depth is always apparent by a soil mark on the bark of the
tree. This is important, as in the case of the tree on the Quince it is imperative
to plant deeply enough to cover the union of stock and graft.

TREES ON THE Pear Srock.—After the second year’s growth it may

NALS TIRYINAD ULM ToL YhaAd GH NIFUL-NPAL

‘THUL UVAd TIVAl GANIVYLATIVINOZIYON

THE PEAR 119

be found that the young tree on the Pear stock has made some strong
growths, and also some strong roots, which, on examination, will be seen
to be making their way towards the subsoil. There is nothing for it then
but to lift the roots with all possible care, prune them, and carefully replant
the tree, adding a little fresh soil to the roots as the work proceeds. ‘If this
is carefully carried out scarcely any check to the growth of the tree the
following season will be apparent. After root-pruning the tree will not require
further attention in this respect for many years, but should strong growths
again arise, in the course of two or three years, do not lift the tree, but
endeavour to find the coarse roots by clearing a passage with a fork here and
there under the tree where the offending roots are most likely to be found, and
this, as a rule, is directly beneath the strong growths.

TREES ON THE Quince Srock.—In this case the treatment differs con-
siderably, as the tree will tend to form a mass of small fibrous roots near the
surface ; the grower must encourage the formation of these, and the best way
of doing this is to top-dress the border regularly every year, adding after the
operation a mulching of about 3 inches of decayed manure, and placing a ridge
of soil about 3 inches high round the tree at a distance of about 24 feet from
the stem, so as to form a basin for retaining water. As the roots are not far
from the stem it will be seen how necessary it is thus to nourish the tree,
not only by top dressings, but also by frequent applications of water in hot
weather.

‘Top-Dressinc.—Autumn is the best season for top-dressing. The old
material should be removed before the new is added, and every two or three
years it will be necessary to dig out a trench, 14 feet deep and the same in
width, all round the tree as near the points of the roots as it is safe to go without
injuring them, and fill it with fresh soil. By this means a large number of new
fibrous roots will constantly be added to the tree, greatly helping it to produce
and mature heavy crops of fruit. In the south of England, and in most of our
fairly warm counties, no doubt the best aspect for the pear is west ; it will also
succeed on a south or south-west, but does not grow so well on an eastern
aspect. In cold northern counties the only chance of growing late pears
successfully is to plant them on south walls.

Traininc.—If it is decided to cover the wall with horizontal-trained trees,
a tree three years old had better be purchased from a trustworthy nurseryman,
who will guarantee that the variety is true to name. It should have a main
stem 3 feet long, and side branches from this in a horizontal direction, from
10 inches to a foot apart, the lower ones being a foot from the ground. When
the young trees are established the main stem should grow 18 inches to 2
feet every year. This at the pruning season must be cut to within a foot
of the last pair of branches; the three top buds should produce three shoots,
one on the Jeft hand and one on the right, one being trained upright to
continue the main stem. ‘These must be taken great care of by being tied
to the wire or nailed to the wall as growth extends. The same process of
pruning the main stem to provide side branches must be carried out every year
until the top of the wall is reached, and side branches 1 foot apart have been

120

furnished from base to summit.

PYRAMIDAL TREE, IN THIRD SEASON’S GROWTH

(w) Point of cutting back maiden tree 1 foot from
“ground ; (x) point of second pruning, four side
branches and a leader being reserved the year
following pruning ; (y) point of stopping, as soon
as 12 inches length attained ; (z) growth from
uppermost bud again pinched, if making more
than three or four joints; (2) terminal growth
resulting from sccond pinching, say early in
August; (4) side growths pinched after first stop-
ping of leader, and stopped at third or fourth leaf
if making more growth. This pinching enables
the worker to dispense with winter shortening of
the leader. The side branches are also pinched
at 6 to 8 inches when necessary to preserve the
symmetry of the tree (see side branch page
121), the first tier of branches is shown forked,
with spurs on the two-year-old wood, so that
fruit may be had in the fourth year.

THE FRUIT GARDEN

It is possible to furnish a wall more quickly

by stopping the main stem in summer
when it is a foot long, thereby forcing
new growths immediately below. From
these growths one is selected to form
the main stem, and one on each side
to be trained horizontally as before. I
do not recommend this plan, however,
as the shoots obtained from green and
soft wood will never prove so strong
and serviceable afterwards as those
which have had the whole summer
wherein to grow and mature. More-
over, it often happens that from the
summer stopping only one or perhaps
two shoots will result, thus defeating
the object in view.

In the case of the fan-trained tree,
the framework will already have been
formed before it comes into the grower’s
hands (supposing he plants a tree three
years old), and all he will have to do
is to add to its main branches year by
year until the tree has filled its allotted
space.

Distance Apart TO PLant.—This
must be determined by the height of
the wall. Where the walls are 12 feet
high, 20 feet apart will be the proper
distance, with tall standard “rider”
trees between, in order to cover the
walls in the shortest possible time with
fruitful trees. On walls of lower height
the trees should be planted 15 to 25 feet
apart.

SPRING AND SUMMER PRUNING.—
Under this heading is included thin-
ning out the blossom buds when too
numerous, disbudding, stopping, re-
moving lateral and sublateral growths.
Where summer pruning is properly
carried out, winter pruning becomes
almost unnecessary. The pear as a
rule, like most other fruit trees, produces

more young shoots and blossoms on its branches in spring than can be properly
developed, and it is to release it of this unnecessary burden and help it to

THE PEAR 121

produce better fruit and more fertile branches that disbudding is resorted to.
We will take the previous year’s main shoots first. These will very seldom
show any blossom buds the first year, although occasionally a few are formed
at the extreme ends of the shoots, and they should be allowed to bear fruit,
as usually it is of excellent quality. These young shoots will vary in length
from 12 to 18 inches, and will, ~

when breaking into growth in
spring, produce from eight to
twelve or more small shoots.
Five will be quite enough to fur-
nish spurs for this length of
shoot for the following year,
therefore they should be reduced
to this number, and so that they
are equally distributed the whole
length of the shoot. Spring and
summer pruning possess one great
advantage over winter pruning,

because then it is impossible to
be in doubt as to which is a fower (c) Extension growth stopped; (d) side shoots shortened

bad and which 46 a weed baa, to three leaves, not counting small basal ones ; (e) spurs.
When winter pruning nothing is more difficult to the amateur and beginner
than to be able to tell the difference between a wood bud and a fruit bud.
The fruit buds are short, thick, and blunt at the end, containing as they do
the embryo flowers. The wood bud is longer and thinner, and tapering instead
of being blunt at the end. Having explained the manner in which last year’s
shoots should be disbudded, it only remains now to treat of the main branches
in the same way. They ought to have flowering spurs at least every 10
inches, each of which often produces three or four clusters of flowers. “These
should be reduced to two, reserving, of course, the best. “Two clusters would
really be enough, as at most we can only have two fruits to a spur ; but as frost
and much inclement weather have to be reckoned with, we must be on the
safe side, and consequently retain two of the clusters of flowers until a good set
of fruit is secured.

Wood buds on the main branches are also usually produced in super-
abundance. Numbers of these will cluster round the blossom buds, and should
in the first instance be reduced by disbudding to three at distances apart of
6 to 8 inches all along the branch, afterwards reducing them to two if any
tendency to overcrowding is observed. ‘The shoots from these wood buds
should be allowed to grow freely until about the middle of July, by which time
they will have attained almost their full length, then they should be cut
back to within six or seven buds of their bases. (Terminal shoots, or those
wanted to fill any vacant spaces, should be retained their full Jength.)
Cutting back the shoots will help the development of the fruit buds at their
bases, and also exposes the tree and its crop of fruit to more air, light, and
warmth. All subsequent shoots that may form should be stopped at the fourth

SIDE BRANCH IN GROWTH

122 THE FRUIT GARDEN

leaf. By some growers the system is advocated of stopping the growth of these
shoots as soon as they have developed five or six leaves, instead of leaving them
to grow their full length, as recommended
a above, maintaining that by this plan the
whole energy of the tree is concentrated
in an effort to develop and strengthen this
growth, and so prepare it more effectually
to produce at its base stronger and better
blossom buds. To small cultivators whose
fruit plantations are primarily intended to
give recreative employment and pleasure,
this system may be practised with advan-
tage. Good crops of excellent fruit may
; be secured in this way, but the natural and
(/) Extension gronth not shortened Peale healthy development of the tree is un-
present; (g) side shoots spurred in; doubtedly retarded. Under this method
(4) spurs on which fruit may be produced stopping must be continued during the

the following summer. ;
season, the second, and third, and any sub-
sequent growths being pinched at the third or fourth leaf. This plan is suitable
for gardens of limited extent where one wishes to grow many kinds of fruit

trees, and where large trees are not desired.

EspaLIER- TRAINED TREES.—I am of opinion that no system of training is
better adapted for the successful culture of the pear than the horizontal espalier.
It affords to the tree all possible exposure to light, heat, and air. Espalier trees
may be had in many forms, but the one most commonly adopted, and which I
believe to be the best, is the horizontal espalier. “The espalier or fence is
formed by fixing upright iron bars (using hot lead as cement), into stones about
15 inches square, and sunk in the ground to the same
depth. These upright bars should be formed of 14-inch
iron, and should be 5 feet above the ground and fixed 6
feet apart. This height will admit of five rows of wires,

10 inches apart, upon which to train the branches, the Se
basal wire being fixed at 10 inches from the ground and
the top one being 4 inches below the top of the bar. At
each end of the trellis strong posts must be placed, to That must not be pinched

: a : > in summer and short-
which the wires can be fixed tightly, and if the length: ened inwinter, forsuch,
of the trellis is above sixty yards a middle straining post _—_as_in this instance, is
must be fixed. For this high trellis the size of the wire pyccn fermigated by a
should be } inch in diameter. “To any one contemplating
the culture of the pear on the Quince stock on a large scale for commercial
purposes, I can strongly recommend this form of training. ‘The espalier trellises
should be fixed at 12 feet apart, and should run from north to south. Plenty of
light and air would then reach the trees, and the land between the trellises be of
greater value by reason of the protection and warmth afforded by the trees ; it
could be utilised for the culture of strawberries, early crops of vegetables, &c.

At the Royal Gardens, Windsor, a very elegant trellis was successfully and

' SIDE BRANCH, LEAFLESS

SHORT STUBBY SHOOT

“YWOSCNLAL

‘SNUQUFD TF AON ‘SITTANL GHYHIXF NF NO FAL UFAd

aA VETERAN HORIZONTALLY-TRAINED PEAR TREE
AT HEWELL GRANGE.

THE EER: 123

extensively used for training the pear, said to be much in favour with H.R.H.
the late Prince Consort. It was in the form of a low wire arch. I have not the
actual measurements, but the arches were about 7 feet wide at the base, and
5 feet high in the centre; they should be placed with their ends north and
south. A large surface is thus exposed to the sun, resulting in the perfect
maturation of the wood, and

heavy well-ripened crops of

fruit. It has been said against

this form of trellis that it equally kok

ae |
exposes a large surface to the 2 S62 97 f
J —— ad

; aS i
baneful effect of frost while the k k Be ae
trees are in flower in spring.

This is no doubt true, but speak- HorizonTaL BRANCH
ing from a ten years’ experience ; :

rae : ii 7 Whose extension growth has not been pruned in summer,
or trees grown in this way, but the side shoots have ; (z) continuation of branch not

can only say that heavier crops shortened ; (7) side shoots that have been stopped in
: the summer shortened to two basal buds; (4) spurs

Rabe e not had from trees trained with blossom buds. Numbers give age of wood.

in any other form. The trees

may be planted in the middle of the trellis (inside) and trained down both ways,
or may be planted on either side (outside). Fan-trained trees are the most
suitable, and I prefer planting on each side rather than in the centre. The pear
also succeeds when trained on tall arches over garden walks, and then makes a
very handsome, ornamental, and useful feature in the garden ; so it does when
trained over house porticos, &c.

THINNING THE FRurt.--In the past this has unquestionably been much
neglected in gardens. It is hopeless to expect pears of the best size and quality
without proper thinning. It is difficult to lay down a hard and fast rule as to
how many fruits to a square foot of surface a pear tree should carry. In the
case of the larger varieties such as Beurré Diel, Beurré Bosc, Pitmaston

Duchess, Easter Beurré, and

7 fp nwpW, 7 mm. 29 1, others, one fruit to each square
= 5 oe fad foot would be quite enough to
7 ans ne ™m Tm ™|m ™ leave after etal aunt ;
HorIzONTAL BRANCH with the medium-sized varie-

(2) Extension branch very feeble ; (7z) spurs formed throughout ties two to the equate foot
length of previous year’s wood; (z) spurs that have borne would not be too many, and

fruit, thus accounting for feeble terminal growth. The jin the case of the smaller
numerals refer to year’s age of wood.

varieties three. This is giving
a much larger percentage than recommended for the peach, bearing in mind
that the pear tree is far stronger and more vigorous than the latter. The
grower must be guided by the strength and health of the tree, and whether the
fruit is evenly distributed or not. Some parts of the tree will probably be barren,
and others bearing heavily ; in this case it will not do to leave a large propor-
tion of fruit on some branches with the object of bringing up the average to
the number stated. Rather let the cultivator be satisfied with less ; too many
on any single branch will frustrate the object in view.

124 THE FRUIT GARDEN

Frrpinc.—This term as applied to man and beast is well understood, and
its importance recognised, but with regard to a fruit tree the expression may
seem inappropriate, but in reality it is not so, as without due and intelligent
attention to this matter success is impossible. To emphasise this point I
need only draw attention to the amount of thought and care which is given
to this subject in the case of the vine, the peach, the pine, the melon, &c. If
the same results are to be obtained, the same practice more or less must be
applied to the pear. I have already advised that a ridge of turf should be
placed round the base of the stem, so as to form a sort of basin to hold water.
Without 2 provision of this sort there is danger that the water given may filter
away into other courses and be wasted. ‘The season during which stimulants
may advantageously be applied to the pear is from June to August, that is,
from the time the fruit is the size of a cob nut until it is nearly fully
developed, and for this purpose there is nothing better than clear liquid
manure from the stableyard or the cowshed, occasionally using guano water
instead. Late Pear trees should be fed until the end of September. “Twice

during the season a slight sprinkling of nitrate of soda washed
in with water will be of great service. With regard to old and
large pear trees, whether in the open or against a wall, more
especially the latter, there is no doubt, I think, that the cause
of their unsatisfactory condition and indifferent fruiting which
one often notices, is frequently caused by dryness at the root.
Let me recommend my readers to have them thoroughly and
copiously watered in the course of the winter months with
weak manure water if possible. In pulling up such trees to be
thrown away who has not observed the dust-dry condition of
the ground under the roots, therefore do not be afraid of
giving heavy waterings occasionally in winter to old and large
mn fruit trees.

GaTHERING AND STORING THE Frurr.—This is one of the
most interesting, and certainly one of the most important,
duties in connection with the cultivation of the pear. Asa
general rule it may be safely affirmed that in the case of nearly
all the early and mid-season pears, they should be gathered
some little time before they are ripe, that is, immediately they

Maven Tree Show signs of separating from the tree. This can easily be
(ONE Oe hae ascertained by taking the fruit in the hand and raising it,
oy ) when, if fit to pull, the stalk will easily part from the branch.
(m) Stock; (n) point Some early sorts if allowed to become ripe on the tree quickly
of shortening deteriorate in flavour. In the case of late pears it is different.
growth from bud :
to 12 inches from hese should be allowed to hang on the tree as late as possible
ground, until there is danger of frost, and even a little frost, say five
or six degrees, will not hurt them. As regards the storing
or the disposal of the fruit, if intended for market the early and mid-season
sorts should be despatched certainly ten days before they are ripe, otherwise
much loss and damage will result by bruising. When for home consumption

TREES ON WALL,

CORDON PEAR

EE

DOUBL

FRUIT SPURS OF AN OLD ESPALIER PEAR TREE AT CHISWICK,

THE . PEAK

the best way I have found for gathering
and storing fruit is to have shallow baskets,
24 feet long by 14 feet wide, and 6 inches
deep. These, when full, are placed on a
long barrow, with ends only and no sides,
having springs under the wheels to prevent
jolting.

Where there is a good collection of pears
grown it is well, if possible, to have a special
fruit-room for storing them in, for the reason
that the flavour deteriorates if the fruits are
harvested in a room where the temperature is
low. The apple, for instance, will withstand
a much lower temperature without injury than
will the pear. It goes without saying that
before the season of fruit gathering begins
the fruit-room should be well cleaned, and if
necessary whitewashed. In harvesting pears
it is a good plan to lay the earliest to ripen on
the shelves most convenient to hand, so that

I

Two YEAR FAN-TRAINED TREE

(7) Leader shortened to 6 inches ; (7) side shoots shortened
to 6 inches; (s) growths from side branches not short-
ened, It is not necessary to shorten any of these shoots.
Two growths are secured from the upright branch in the
following summer, and two from each of the upper
side branches, while a shoot is taken forward from each
of the four lowest branches. Thus ten branches will
be secured and will quickly cover an espalier or wall,
5 feet in height. If the tree two years trained is re-
quired for a higher espalier or wall than 5 feet, three
shoots must be secured from the upright (instead of
two as for a 5 feet high espalier), thus securing eleven
branches, and from these any number of others may be
originated to cover the space.

125

ONE YEAR FAN-TRAINED TREE

(o) Leader shortened to6 inches; (J) side
shoots shortened to 6 inches; the
growths are secured in the preceding
summer to an improvised trellis of
stakes and rods as shown.

they can be easily and quickly
looked over, and the bruised and
decayed ones taken away. Late
pears may be placed on less acces-
sible shelves, as they will require
little or no attention in this re-
spect until the early ones have
been disposed of.

SINGLE or DousLe Corpons
on Watts.—This is an interest-
ing and successful method of
cultivating many varieties of pears.
It is interesting from the fact that
a large number of varieties may
be grown on a limited wall space,
thereby giving the amateur and
the small grower an opportunity
of growing a number of distinct
fruits. This is an important
matter, in that it enables the
cultivator to enjoy the advantage
of ripe pears in season, say from
August to Easter. Larger and
more handsome fruit can be
grown by this method than in
any other way, although it must
be said that quantity is somewhat

126 THE FRUIT GARDEN

sacrificed. "This system is not recommended where heavy crops are the chief
desideratum., The single cordons should be planted 18 inches apart,and the double

wa
ie SOY

MODIFIED FAN AND HORIZONTAL TRAINING

Three-year trained tree on a 5 feet high espalier ; point of cutting back maiden
tree is about 12inches from ground ; (z) point of shortening leader at second
pruning to 1 foot; (v) point of cutting back side shoots to 6 inches; (zw) point of
shortening leader at third pruning ; (x) point of shortening side shoots at third
pruning ; (y) branches originated for covering the trellis. This method com-
bines the principles of the fan and horizontal training. The tree is trained
with an upright stem, the maiden growth and the subsequent leading growths
are shortened each year to 12 inches, and side growths originated at this dis-
tance. They are shortened to 6 inches so as to produce two vigorous growths
from each, training them as shown. In this particular the system is that of
the fan, but when the several growths reach their respective wires of the trellis
each is trained horizontally. By this mode the trellis is furnished with branches
in four years from the bud instead of six years, as by the horizontal method.
The system is applicable to any height of espalier or wall, and obviously
doubles the speed of forming branches for horizontal training in all but the
first and last years of shortening the leader.

cordons 3 feet apart. In the first instance I recommended single cordons as best,
for the reason that when the single cordon has reached the top of the wall it is
an advantage to the tree to encourage a second cordon from the base of the stem,

SINGLE AND DOUBLE HORIZONTAL CORDONS

Properly planted and secured to wire not less than 1 foot from ground ; (zg) maiden tree planted at an
angle of 45°; (a) horizontal wire. The tree if well rooted and not unduly vigorous may be left
intact, if not well rooted, shorten to the cross line, about one-third of its length. In the spring
after planting cut off all growths below the wire and take forward a strong leading shoot from the
upper part and train it horizontally. All others having made five or six joints of wood stop back
to three or four leaves, cutting them in autumn to one or two buds. It is not necessary to shorten
the leading growth until its limit is reached. Double horizontal cordon, one year trained: (4) point
of cutting back maiden tree; (c) shoots to form branches, all others rubbed off.

with the object of converting the single into a double cordon. This new
development will give the single cordon more room and result in healthier

‘SHAUL YUFAT NOdNoo FNOITGO FTONIS

PEAR MARGUERITE MARILLAT AS A CORDON
ON WEST WALL.

THE PEAR 129

and more fruitful growth ; it is to be recommended on all occasions where prac-
ticable. If worked on the Quince stock, as all cordon pears should be, they
will remain fruitful for many years after they have filled their allotted space on
the wall, especially if the wall is a high one, say 12 feet. But they would
undoubtedly succeed better and live longer if allowed gradually to develop into
double ones as suggested above. In the case of a low wall, say 8 or g feet,
double cordons should be planted in the first instance.

Apart from the interest and utility cordons possess in their adaptability for

VERTICAL CORDONS

1. Single maiden tree in growth from bud;

(d@) point of shortening at winter pruning,
about half its length. In the following
spring retain the strongest shoot as
leader, and when it has grown 12 inches
pinch out the point. If this is done by
midsummer, it will grow again; reserve
the strongest growth, training it upright,
pinching the other to the third leaf.
Shoots on the previous year’s wood are
treated similarly. At the winter pruning
the leader need only be ~hortened to well-
ripened wood, or, if well matured and the
second growth short, leave full length, cut-
ting pinched side shoots to a bud or two.
Subsequent years’ treatment is similar.
2. Double tree one year trained (in leaf) ;
(e) point of shortening growths at winter
pruning. F: lowing spring and summer
treatment same as for single cordon.

DIAGONAL CORDONS

Single cordon four years trained. 1. Maiden tree pro-

perly planted and secured to trellis. If well rooted
and not too vigorous, it need not be shortened,
otherwise it must be shortened to the cross line
so as to secure a vigorous growth for extension.
2. Second year from bud, maiden tree not having
been shortened; (/) continuation growth ; (g) pre-
vious year’s wood on which spurs have formed.
3. Third year; (4) extension growth; (z) previous
year's wood with spurs; (7) three years’ wood bear-
ing fruit. 4. Fourth year; (4) extremity growth
and limit of trellis; (2) previous year’s wood with
spurs; (m#) three years’ wood fruiting ; below four
years’ wood in bearing. In trees trained diagonally
the flow of sap is more evenly distributed than in
the vertical, consequently more vigour is imparted
to the lower parts,

the requirements of small gardens, they have a special advantage in the case
of any large or small garden with new walls, and where it is desired to furnish
them immediately and without loss of time with fruitful trees. Cordons can
be purchased at reasonable prices, from 6 to 10 feet in height, and clothed from
base to summit with fruit-bearing buds, and they return to the grower the
first year after planting a satisfactory yield in a crop of excellent fruit. It
may here also be stated that to those wishing to grow large and handsome
pears, either for private dessert or for exhibition purposes, there is no method
of culture which will secure this result so successfully as the cordon tree. A

128 THE FRUIT GARDEN

word of caution is necessary as regards the selection of varieties; much dis-
appointment and loss will be experienced by indiscriminate planting. I may
say at once that it is useless to plant those varieties which are known to be
weak and poor growers. When subjected to restriction, as they naturally are
under this system, in time they absolutely refuse to grow at all. Therefore in
selecting cordon trees be careful to order those varieties only that are known to
be of good constitution and free growth, and amongst them I may enumerate
the following as being suitable for this purpose, and also as affording a supply of
first quality dessert fruits from August to Easter. These varieties are also well
adapted for growing on walls as horizontal or fan-trained trees.

VARIETIES FOR WALLS

AuGust.—Beacon, Doyenné @Eté, *Beurré Giffard, *Clapp’s Favourite, Grégoire
Borditlon, *Jargonelle, Souvenir du Congrés.

SEPTEMBER.—* Williams Bon Chrétien, *Beurré ad’ Amanlis, Beurré superjin,
Brockworth Park, *Fondante d’Automne, *Triomphe de Vienne, Madame Treyve,
Marguerite Martllat.

OcTOBER.—BSergamotte Hamburg, * Beurré Bosc, Beurré Capiaumont, Beurré Fou-
gueray, * Beurré Hardy, *Beurré Brown, *Comte de Lamy, Doyenné Boussoch, Gratioli
of Jersey, * Louise Bonne of Jersey, Marie Louise a’ Uccle,*Pitmaston Duchess, *Seckle,
Magnate.

NOVEMBER.—Durondeau, Baronne de Mello, Beurré Clairgeau, *Conference,
*Doyenné du Comice, Hacon’s Incomparable,* Marie Louise, * Thompson's, Van Mons
Léon Le Clerc, *Duchesse ad’ Angouléme, *La France.

DECEMBER.—* Beurré ad’ Anjou, Beurré ad’ Arenberg, Beurré Bachelier, *Beurré de
JSonghe, Chaumontel, *Doyenné a’ Alencon, *Glou Morceau, Knigh?’s Monarch, *Marie
Benoist, * Winter Nelis, *Beurré Diel.

JANUARY.—*Nouvelle Fulvie,*Beurré Sterckmans, *Easter Beurré, Jean de Witte,
*Le Lectier, President Barabé, Vicar of Winkfield, Zéphirin Grégotre.

FEBRUARY.—WMarie Guisse, Duchesse de Bordeaux, *Olivier de Serres, *Passe
Crassane,* Nec Plus Meuris, Beurré Perran.

MarcH TO May.—*Bergamotte Esperen, *Beurré Rance, *Josephine de Malines,
Anna Nelis.

Where it is desired to have a limited collection, those varieties marked with
an asterisk should be grown.

THE PEAR IN THE OPEN
By GEORGE BUNYARD

Under orchard culture only a few varieties of pears are suitable for
market. It is in the cultivated garden that they are valuable for dessert and
culinary purposes by reason of their long season. They can be grown as
standards in the outer garden above the coarse vegetables, or as pyramids
and bushes upon the Quince stock by the sides of the garden paths planted
from 6 to 12 feet apart, but the fruits attain perfection when grown upon walls
facing all points but the north. Some prefer pear trees as fan-trained or
horizontally trained espaliers upon the Free or Pear stock, planted 15 feet apart.

YOUNG PYRAMID TREE OF PEAR CHARLES ERNEST.

THE

They may be grown as cordons upon
the Quince stock, planted against
walls at 2 feet apart. When properly
pruned and root-pruned pears are very
fertile in any form. The early
varieties thrive well on walls facing
east, the mid-season sorts on a west
wall; the late varieties should be
planted against walls with a western or
southern aspect, as they require con-
siderable warmth to perfect their
fruits. They should be fed with water
and stimulants well into October.
All the early pears, such as ripen
before October, should be gathered
a few days before they are really
ripe, otherwise such varieties as Jar-
gonelle and Williams’ Bon Chrétien
become mealy and soon decay. All
the fruits should not be gathered
atonce. The shaded fruits will hang
some days after the exposed ones are
gathered. Such a delicate fruit as the
pear must be carefully picked, with-
out bruising, and be stored at once.
Enquiry is often made as to when
pears should be picked. Only general
rules can be given. Should the fruits
fall from the trees without any ap-
parent cause a few should be cut
open, and if the pips (seeds) are black
the fruits may be considered ready
to store. The fruits of some late
varieties should remain on the trees
until November, and when the stalk
end grows over the spur it may be
taken as an indication that the pear
is ready to gather. Again, if when
gently lifted up it parts readily from
the spur the fruit may be picked.
Amateurs should not be alarmed if a
few fall,as they are frequently diseased
and do not indicate that all the fruits
are ripe. Finely developed fruits
should be the cultivator’s aim. They
should be thinned as soon as well

129

A BusH PEAR TREE (5 YEARS OLD)

(w) Point of shortening the first growth from the bud or graft ;

(x) point of second pruning of leading growth ; (y) point
of third pruning; (z) side branches originated the first
year ; (a) branches formed in second season; (4) branches
originated in third year of pruning; (c) leading growths
of branches ; (d) subsidiary growths allowed to remain for
furnishing the tree with branches about 1x foot distant
from each other. The numerals refer to the ages of the
shoots. The tree is formed by cutting back maiden trees
to 15 to 18 inches from the ground, so that the lowest
branches are well clear of the soil. Of the growths push-
ing, five or six of the most promising and wellsituated are
retained, and the others rubbed off, thus leaving four or
five side shoots and a leader. Side growths or laterals on
any of these are pinched at the first leaf as produced, cut-
ting below the first stopping at the winter pruning; as
some basal buds will be left, spurs will form the following
summer. At the winter pruning the leader is shortened
to 15 inches, and the side shoots, if over a foot in length,
topped, otherwise left intact. The next spring four to six
shoots push from the stem and are encouraged, but not a
leading central growth (the absence or presence of this
marks the difference between a bush and a pyramid
tree); lateral shoots are pinched to three leaves, not
counting the small basal one or two, and they are short-
ened to one or two buds at the winter pruning following.
Short stubby shoots are not pinched or winter pruned, as
on these the fruit is produced. In winter the uppermost
shoots are shortened to about 15 inches to cause them to
fork, and the leading growths of the side branches are
treated as in the preceding season ; subsequent pruning is
simply a repetition.
I

130

A PYRAMID PEAR TREE (§ YEARS OLD)

(e) Point of cutting back maiden tree; (/) point of

second shortening ; (g) point of third cutting back ;

(A) point of fourth shortening of leader ; (¢) point of
stopping leading shoot in summer ; (7) continuation
growth of leader made after pinching ; (k) side
growths made in consequence of stopping leader.
The numerals refer to the age of the wood. Practi-
cally such tree requires no winter pruning. ‘The
pyramid is formed by shortening the maiden tree
to 15 inches from the ground, and five to seven
shoots originated ; one is taken upwards, secured
to a perpendicular stake, the remaining ones
selected are retained in the best positions, all others
being rubbed off. The following winter the leader
is shortened to 15 inches, or 18 inches if strong,
and at least four shoots will grow in spring, one
to be trained upwards as continuation of the stem,
the others regularly disposed around. The side
branches may have been shortened, in which case
a growth must be trained forward as leader from
the extremity of each, and the others pinched,
though the branches may be forked where desired
to originate subsidiary branches; the pinched side
shoots are cut back in winter to within a bud or two
of their bases to form spurs. The side and sub-
sidiary branches should not be nearer each other
than 9 inches, and are better 1 foot apart ; the lower
side branches seldom require shortening, and the
others only to preserve the symmetrical form of
each specimen. At the third and fourth pruning
three side shoots and a leader will be secured, and
so on, until the tree is as large as desired.

THE FRUIT GARDEN

formed. A large portion of the pears will
fall naturally when quite small, and the
cultivator should wait three weeks after
this stage before he commences to thin.
Late frosts will often destroy numbers
also, so that it is not advisable to start
thinning too early; leave the best-
looking fruits which are placed in such
positions as to derive the fullest benefit
from sun and air. All imperfect fruits,
those below the branches and (on wall
trees) those touching the walls, should be
removed. A very heavy crop will result
in small fruits of inferior flavour and
hard texture. Pears on walls, and
heavily cropped trees in other positions,
need mulching and watering in July
and August, and well repay this atten-
tion, especially if large fruits for exhibition
purposes are desired; medium-sized fruits
are, however, better flavoured and more
generally useful.

Best Srocks For Prars,—Pyra-
midal, bush, cordon, or other .forms of
restricted growth, are best upon the
Quince stock. Orchard trees and
espaliers should be upon the Free or
Pear stock. As the quince is a moisture-
loving tree, where the soil is gravelly,
sandy, or very light, the pear trees must
be on the Pear stock ; gross growth can
always be checked by root-pruning. In
planting pears grafted or budded on the
Quince stock the junction of the scion
should be placed 2 inches beneath the
soil. But, on the other hand, care should
be taken not to plant trees on the Free
stock too deeply. Some varieties of the
pear will not grow if worked direct on.
the Quince stock ; in such cases nursery-
men first graft or bud on the Quince
a variety that is vigorous, and then upon
this work the desired sort. This is
termed “double grafting,” and such trees
produce a maximum of fruit with @
minimum of growth.

THE PEAR

131

ManurinG Prar Trees.—It is better to wait until a crop of fruits is set

and duly thinned before giving stimulants, for
if the trees fail to bear, too much growth
results, and the proper balance between roots
and branches is disturbed. The fruits upon
trees of late sorts should be freely thinned
and allowed to hang into November. Unless
they are perfectly matured the fruits are
harsh and woody, and never become fit for
table use. These late sorts should be given
warm positions, even south walls in cool
districts.

OrcHarp Cutrure.—It is seldom that
pains are taken to thin the crop of pears in
orchards, but much finer fruits can be obtained
where the boughs are kept well apart by
severe pruning in winter, and a few hours
given to thinning the fruits will be well
repaid. If liquid manure or a mulch of long
stable litter can be applied in June or July,
and for the latest varieties until October, to
those bearing a heavy crop the trees will
benefit greatly.

In planting pears we do not advise
manure to be used too freely as this may
force the trees to make gross growth, and
thus lead to the loss of spurs and fruit buds.
Many buds may become blind, and the joints
of some sorts will be too far apart to clothe
the trees with fruit spurs, so we prefer rather
to rely on good, sound loam. It frequently
occurs that where much manure is used the
soil becomes too loose for the trees to root
readily, and those on the Quince stock especi-
ally will suffer in a dry season and become
stunted. Established pear trees flower very
freely, and are liable to exhaust themselves by
the profusion of blossoms, so that no fruit
“sets.” In varieties that do this (generally
those which make the least growth) it is advis-
able to go over the trees as soon as the buds are
sufficiently forward and remove surplus clusters
of flowers, e.g. those next to the wall, or where
the clusters are so close to each other that it
is evident all cannot come to perfection.

<y)
Mey

Pas

Wz

(2 Point of cutting back maiden tree (the numerals

refer to the age of the wood). The result
of this is six growths, disposed regularly
around the stem, all others being removed.
They may be arranged by means of wooden
hoops,—an inner one g inches in diameter,
and three uppermost shoots secured to it at
g inches apart around the circumference ; the
outer hoop should be 15 inches in diameter,
the three lower shoots arranged at equal
distances around it, and alternating with the
inner shoots. If the uppermost shoots grow
more vigorously than the others, stop them
not later than early in August when about
15 inches long, keeping the shoots as nearly
on a level as possible. The winter pruning
will be practically nil if summer stopping
is practised, and the shoots are about on
a level; otherwise shorten those too long,
and cut close all laterals. The subsequent
treatment is the same as for the bush and
pyramid, the main branches are continued,
and forked so as to have bearing branches
9 inches apart. Such tree has no central
stem like the pyramid, and the form is
peculiar to some varieties; it is well suited
for plantations and gardens, especially when
the cultivator cannot devote much time to
the shaping of the trees.

Descriptions oF FRurir.—It must be understood that there is a great

132 THE FRUIT GARDEN

difference both in the size and colour of pears, depending upon (1) the district
where they are grown ; (2) the position ; (3) form of the tree; and (4) upon
the amount of thinning. For example, fruits of Marie Louise gathered from
standard trees may be almost entirely covered with russet, and but a quarter the
size of fruits from wall trees, the latter being a bright orange when ripe, with
only asuspicion of russet. Many pears in certain soils develop a crimson or red
flush which is not met with generally. Pears are classed as gritty when the
flesh is apple-like and hard round grits are found around the core ; as melting
when dissolving in the mouth like a peach, e.g. Doyenné du Comice ; as crisp
when mastication is needed. Some pears are apt to rot at the core. This may
be prevented in a degree by gathering the fruits before they are fully ripe.
The flavour of pears is variously described as sweet, rich, and perfumed ; the
meaning of each term is evident. Mid-season pears, as a rule, do not keep after
they are ready for eating, more especially the September and October sorts, but
their season can be lengthened by first gathering from the sunny side of pyramid
trees or from the warmest parts of wall trees; asa rule all early pears are best
flavoured and most juicy if gathered just before they are quite ripe.

There are some 500 varieties of this fruit known and catalogued, but for
our purpose only 63 are figured and described, and these cover the whole season
from the ripening of Doyenné d’Eté in July to the last days of April,

ASPASIE AUCOURT.—S#in smooth, faint patches of russet ; colour greenish, shading
to yellow ; flesh primrose, melting and juicy ; favour sweet and rich, first-class ; season
August ; growth slow on the Quince stock, upon which it forms a fertile tree. Upon the
Pear stock it grows moderately. It is one of the best pears in its season for garden use.

Baron LEROY.—Sé£ru slightly rough; colour green, spotted with freckles of russet
and brown, with bronze patches; /esh white, melting ; favour sweet, rich, and first-
class; season December to January; growth moderate. This new pear resembles
Bergamotte Esperen. It may supersede it, for Bergamotte Esperen is very captious.
We consider it worthy of garden culture.

BEACON.—S£zm smooth and shining, with faint russet; colour pale green, yellow, and
with a brown cheek; /lesh firm ; flavour sweet, not first-rate, but passable for its season;
season middle to end of July; growth very slow on the Quince stock, upon which it
forms a fertile, compact tree. A free bearer.

BERGAMOTTE ESPEREN.—S£72z smooth and shining ; colour pale pea-green, covered
with large russet dots and patches of russet, faintly red or rosy sometimes ; /zesh pale
primrose, half-melting ; favour sweet and rich in a warm season, but in cold seasons
only fit for stewing ; season February to April; growd¢h free and twiggy, an enormous
cropper; prefers a heavy soil and wall culture, but on light land is seldom eatable.

BELLE JULIE.—S47im rough, covered with russet dots and patches; colour pale green
to yellow ; flesh nearly white, very juicy, melting; flavour rich, sweet, and quite first-
class ; season early November; growth close and compact; first-rate on Quince stock,
and bears profusely; might succeed as a standard in warm positigns; a very fine variety
for garden culture in all forms. F.C.C. 1894.

BELLISSIME D’HIVER.— Siz smooth, with patches of rough russet; colour green
and yellow, with a rich, bronzy cheek which, as the fruit ripens, is often scarlet; flesh
white and crisp; favour, a stewing pear; season November to March; gvow¢h compact,
sturdy, upright, forming a great number of fruit-spurs; bears very freely, and, on account
of its long season, is a valuable late cooking pear. Splendid when baked.

BEURRE Bosc.—Sfz7 rough and harsh, entirely covered with rich, brown russet, with
silvery dots; flesh firm, very juicy; flavour very rich and distinct; season October;
growth spreading and moderate; forms a thin-branched orchard tree; not suitable for

TRIPLE UPRIGHT CORDON PEAR TREE,

PEAR BEURRE RANCE.

THE PEAR 133

cold soils; first-rate on walls or as a garden tree; requires double grafting on the Quince
stock. Succeeds near the sea.

BEURRE D’AMANLIS.—S4zz smooth, with russet patches ; colour green, with black
specks, and often with a reddish crimson cheek; /esk greenish white, half-melting ;
flavour refreshing and juicy, not very rich, and only fit for stewing in cool seasons;
season September; growth spreading, succeeds in all forms, and is a very robust tree
with large foliage. Though not first-class it is valuable, because it often fruits when pears
are scarce.

k BEURRE DE JONGHE.—Skin smooth, with thin russet ; colour pale green to orange,
with faint orange flush; flesh white, melting, juicy; favour very rich, sweet; season
January to March; grow¢h very compact and full of fruit-spurs. Upright ; forms a
prolific tree on the Quince stock. It is free on the Pear, and one of the most useful
garden fruits. F.C.C. 1875.

BEURRE DIEL (Beurré Magnifique, Jersey Beurré).—Séz” slightly rough when from
a wall, but frequently russety from open trees ; colour green, with russet patches, chang-
ing to golden yellow when ripe; /esh crisp, white, granulous at the core, not melting;
flavour very rich and unlike any other pear, very fine in good seasons, but in cold years
only fit for stewing; season end of October and November; grow/h free. A variety
that succeeds in warm soils, but the tree is apt tocanker. The fruit is more or less gritty,
so that, except in very good seasons, it is of little value. There are many better pears.
Fine in Devon and Cornwall.

BEURRE DU BUISSON.—Sfim harsh and uneven; colour pale greenish yellow, with
a chocolate-red flush on one side; /vesh greenish white, juicy; favour very sweet and
rich ; season December to March; growth moderate and compact. A valuable garden
pear, worthy of a wall or specially warm place, though it succeeds in the Midlands.
F.C.C. 1894.

BEURRE FOUQUERAY.—S4i” smooth and polished; colour pale pea-green, shading
to yellow-green ; flesh white, melting, very juicy ; flavour almost first-rate, rich and
refreshing ; season October, over-ripe it is inferior ; grow? moderate, very freely set with
spurs. A most prolific variety for garden culture, succeeding in all forms. F.C.C. 1895.

BEURRE GIFFARD.—S4iz smooth and very thin ; colour bright yellow, mottled with
crimson, often scarlet ; /esh snow white and crisp ; favour sweet, juicy, and refreshing ;
season August ; growth peculiar ; leaves small and placed widely apart; wood deep
purple. It grows very irregularly, but bears freely, and is quite a first-rate garden
fruit.

BEURRE Harpy.—Séix slightly rough ; colour rich brown, shading to golden ; fresh
greenish white, melting, very juicy ; favour rich and refreshing ; season October ; growth
robust. A grand grower, with large handsome foliage ; forms a regular pyramid, and is
good in any form. Bears moderately.

BEURRE JEAN VAN GEERT.— Sin smooth, with faint patches of russet ; colour lemon,
with a handsome red cheek ; flesh white ; favour sweet, juicy, and pleasant ; season Octo-
ber ; growth neat and compact. Very free bearer ; valuable for market sale. One of the
most beautiful pears grown. Should be used before very ripe, or it loses quality.

BEURRE MORTILLET.—S4zm slightly rough, often russety ; colour pale yellow and
green, with a brilliant brown-red cheek ; flesh white, juicy ; favour refreshing, and often
first-class; it requires to be gathered before it parts readily from the tree, as it soon rots
when stored ; season September ; growth very sturdy, upright. A rather new pear of
beautiful appearance. Often 1 lb. weight. ;

BEURRE PERRAN.—S#:7 almost covered with rough russet, less so on fruits from
walls ; colour rich brown ; flesh juicy, whitish, crisp, but half-melting ; favour very rich ;
season February ; growth upright and wiry; rather sparse of foliage. A very fine
late pear that succeeds in all garden forms. In shape it is like Duchesse de Bordeaux.
F.C.C. 1894.

BEURRE RANCE.—S£z7 rough and pitted ; colour pale olive-green, strewn with russet
and russet dots ; esh tender, melting, and juicy ; favour sweet and refreshing ; season
February to April; growth very free, fruit often very large. A most valuable late pear,

134 THE FRUIT GARDEN

which prefers a warm wall. When upon the Pear stock it must be heavily root-pruned.
Grows slowly as a cordon on the Quince. Not suitable as a standard.

BEURRE SUPERFIN.—S£i7 russety in places, smoother from a wall ; colour green to
lemon, with patches of russet sometimes almost covering the fruit; j/esh nearly white,
melting ; favour first-class, very rich, like Marie Louise, but more piquant ; season end of
Octoberand November ; gvow¢h upright and compact. A grand garden pear, succeeding
in all forms, and as a standard in warm soils.

CATILLAC (Pound Pear),—S#z” harsh, often russety; colour apple-green, with minute
dots and flecks of russet, it often has a red or chocolate-red flush ; flesh firm, very crisp,
and white ; 7avour, when stewed, excellent ; it is not a dessert variety; season Novem-
ber to May ; grow/A pendent, with very large roundish foliage. Makes a fine standard
and a good garden tree on the Quince stock in all forms, but the growth is spreading for
a bush.

CHARLES ERNEST.—S4in smooth; colour bright primrose, with thin patches of
russet ; flesh snow white, half-melting, juicy ; “avour sweet, rich, and refreshing, first-
class ; season December to January; growth compact and sturdy. This new pear
resembles Souvenir du Congrés. One of the best of recently introduced pears. F.C.C.
1900.

2 CuLapPr’s FAVOURITE.—S£4zu slightly harsh, very uneven; colour-bright yellow, with
bronzy or sometimes bright red cheek ; flesh melting if gathered before fully ripe, but
mealy when allowed to ripen on the tree; favour pleasant, but not first-class ; season
September ; gvow¢h upright, with narrow foliage on long footstalks ; bears moderately.
A valuable market pear on dwarf trees.

COLMAR D’ETE.—S£zn slightly harsh, smooth on one side ; colour bright green, with
pale yellow and bronzy red; /esh crisp, half-melting ; flavour sweet, rich, and very
pleasant ; season early September ; gvowd¢h sturdy and upright, very full of fruit-spurs.
A very free-bearing pear, which seldom fails to crop.

CONFERENCE (Rivers’ Conference).—S#zm slightly rough, with netted patches of
russet ; colour pale green, shaded orange; flesh tinged with pale orange, melting and
juicy ; flavour rich, aromatic, and distinct ; season October ; gvow/h upright and free,
with plentiful foliage. A profuse bearer. Perhaps too large for orchard trees, but indis-
pensable in gardens in any form. F.C.C. 1885.

CONSEILLER DE LA CoUR (Maréchal de la Cour).—S#zm rather harsh, sometimes
russety ; colour pale bright green, with minute russet dots and splashes ; flesh greenish
white, melting ; favour very rich, with a peculiar musky flavour ; season November ;
growth very free, with narrow foliage on long footstalks. A fine garden pear. Does
well in cool soils, and is often 1 lb. in weight.

DIRECTEUR HarpDy.—Sézn smooth, with greenish dots and patches of russet ; colour
pale lemon, rich bronzy red on one side; flesh lemon-white, crisp and juicy ; flavour
sweet and rich; season October; it keeps very well; growth neat and compact.
Although not one of the finest, it bears so well when other good pears are scarce that it
merits culture, and is certainly an acquisition. A.M. 1896.

DOYENNE Boussocu (Doyenné de Merode, Albertine).— Sfzn slightly rough ; colour
bright orange with crimson flush and stripes, and large russety specks ; flesh white,
crisp, half-melting, and juicy; flavour brisk and refreshing, slightly acid; season
October ; growzh moderate, spreading ; makes a good standard, and is very good in any
form as a garden tree, though not first-class. Many like the briskly acid flavour; it
can be depended upon to bear when pears of better quality are scarce.

DOVENNE D’ALENGON.—Sfzz smooth with faint russet ; colour pea-green, entirely
covered with black dots, with thin patches of russet round both the eye and stalk,
tinged with bronze on the sunny, primrose on the shaded side; flesh pale creamy
colour, half-melting ; favour very rich and pleasant ; season January to March; growth
free on the Pear, compact on the Quince stock. A good bearer, and worthy of a wall.
When the tree is fed the fruit becomes large and handsome. A.M. 1900.

DOYENNE D’ETE (Summer Doyenné).—Siz smooth and shining ; colour green,
marbled yellow and primrose, with a bronzy or brilliant crimson cheek, with irregular

PEAR TREE, UPRIGHT FORM OF TRAINING FOR

COVERING PILLAR.

‘MOIAISIHO LV (aryaouON QOTD) TAYL UFKAd YAITKdSY ATO NF

THE PEAR 135

patches of russet and golden dots; flesh firm ; flavour rich, sweet, and pleasant ; if left
on the tree to ripen it becomes mealy, but when gathered in time is juicy and good;
season middle to end of July, the earliest good pear ; growth upright, rather spreading ;
forms a pretty pyramid or garden tree. Its earliness is its chief characteristic ; Joliage
thin and long.

_ DOYENNE DU CoMICE (Comice).—S4zm slightly harsh ; colour dull orange-yellow,
with minute black dots, sometimes when from a wall has a brilliant red flush ; flesh
melting, pale primrose, entirely without grit; flavour exquisite, rich and delicious ;
season November, and sometimes into December when from a cool wall; growth
moderate. This is without doubt the best pear grown, and should be freely planted in
various aspects, on walls and in the open, to lengthen its season. Care should be
taken to keep the roots near the surface by mulching, and if it grows too freely root-
pruning must be carried out. It succeeds in any form. We do not advise heavy
thinning, as the moderate-sized fruits have the richest flavour. F.C.C. 1900.

Dr. JULES GuyoT.—Sém smooth and polished ; colour orange-yellow, with black
dots ; flesh buttery and melting ; favour perfumed and occasionally very good, but its
chief value is as a market variety ; season September; growth slow and sturdy. Bears
profusely, and the fruit is often 1 lb. in weight. When gathered before fully ripe it is
very juicy and good, but if over-ripe it is mealy and flavourless. This excellent fruit is
being largely planted for market sale. The tree is very hardy and bears regularly. It
succeeds in the north.

DUCHESSE DE BORDEAUX.—S£in smooth and velvety ; co/our pale cinnamon-brown,
strewed with patches of russet, with coppery tinge on sunny side ; flesh white and firm,
half-melting ; favour very rich, slightly aromatic ; season February to March ; growth
moderate, free on the Pear stock, but slow on the Quince. A good bearer, and like
many late pears pays for feeding at the root. Fruits must be well matured before
being gathered. F.C.C. 1885.

DURONDEAU (De Tongrés).—Sz#zx harsh, shining ; colour rich nut-brown with deep
red-brown flush ; ffesk white, half-melting, and juicy ; favour very rich; season end of
October ; growth free ; foliage rather small. This indispensable pear succeeds in all
forms, and is worthy of wall culture ; bears freely and regularly.

EASTER BEURRE.—Séinz harsh when grown in the open, but often smooth in wall-
grown fruits ; colour pale green with a chocolate-red cheek, with dots of the same colour,
and faint silvery russet dots on shaded side; flesh tender and melting, juicy ; favour
very refreshing, pleasantly sub-acid; season December to March; growth moderate,
slow on the Quince stock ; worthy of a south or south-west wall, and is then first-class in
beauty and flavour. Succeeds as a pyramid in good situations.

EMILE D’HEystT (Beurré d’Esteren).—S4z” smooth ; colour orange-yellow with small
russet dots and patches ; flesh yellowish, melting, and juicy ; flavour rich, piquant, with
a pleasant refreshing acidity ; season end of October and November ; grow¢h neat and
compact, and somewhat irregular. It forms a mass of fruit-spurs, and bears profusely
and regularly. It succeeds in many forms, and is a far more reliable sort than Marie
Louise, though not so sweet and richly flavoured, but it has a pleasant sub-acid juice
which many prefer. It is one of the best pears, and should be freely planted in various
aspects. F.C.C. 1899.

FONDANTE D’AUTOMNE.—Szz smooth with russet flecks and dots ; colour orange-
yellow, with brownish red cheek, sometimes all greenish yellow; flesh buttery, very
juicy ; favour very sweet and rich, first-class ; season end of September and October ;
growth neat and compact with sparse small foliage. It succeeds in all forms, and is one
of the very best grown. (Birds are particularly fond of it.)

FONDANTE DE THIRRIOT.—Séz7z nearly smooth, with shallow punctures ; colour
lemon to orange, often with a deep golden-scarlet tinge ; flesh firm, and very juicy ;
flavour sweet, rich, and first-rate ; season October and November ; growth upright and
free. A remarkable bearer, succeeding in any form, one of the best recently brought to
notice ; fo/iage rather small.

GILOGIL.—S&zz smooth and velvety ; colour rich coppery brown, strewn with thin

136 THE FRUIT GARDEN

russet, shaded deeper brown ; flesh white and crisp; flavour sweet and aromatic ;
season October to January, a stewing pear; growZzh very sturdy, bears freely, succeeds
in allforms. It resembles Olivier de Serres. Almost apple-shaped.

GLou MorcEau.— Siz smooth, green from wall fruits, but from the open is often
harsh with thick russet ; colour dull olive-green, with some brown shadings, entirely
covered with minute dots ; /esh white, melting and juicy ; flavour sweet, rich, and very
refreshing ; season November and December ; growth moderate, with thick deep green
shining foliage. This is first-class in warm seasons, or in the West of England, but
the fruits are watery and insipid in cold seasons. It, however, bears freely, and succeeds
by the sea, and in its season is valuable.

GROSSE CALEBASSE (Van Marum).—Sz harsh and russety with smooth patches ;
colour green changing to orange, but often entirely covered with russet ; /Zesh white,
crisp, juicy ; flavour second-rate ; season October and November ; grow?h upright and
sparse with long foliage. A stewing pear, and the largest grown. Although poor in
quality is worth growing for exhibition, and for its handsome appearance.

JARGONELLE.— Siz smooth, often with rough russet markings ; colour dark green
shaded with yellow, with a chocolate or bronzy cheek; favour sweet, perfumed ; flesh
whitish, melting, juicy, and refreshing, a fine old early pear; season August; growth
spreading as a standard or garden tree. It requires much pruning to make a cordon or
wall tree, but bears well upon the Quince stock. On the Free stock the trees require
root-pruning, as they only fruit at the ends of the branches. Often much larger than the
figure. Trees often live 200 years.

JOSEPHINE DE MALINES (Malines).—.Sfz smooth, netted with russet round the
stalk and eye, thick and leathery; colour pale yellowish green, with spots and freckles
of bright green; flesh melting, pale cream coloured, very juicy ; flavour perfumed, rather
richer from open trees than from those ona wall; season January to March; growth
upright, moderate. Succeeds in all forms, and is one of the most regular bearing sorts
we have. F.C.C. 1901.

KNIGHT’S MONARCH.—S47z smooth, polished, and sometimes patched with russet ;
colour green to yellow, with bronzy cheek; /fesh leathery and crackling, pale golden
yellow ; flavour very rich, Bergamot-perfumed ; season November to April; grow7A thin
and wiry, produces fine large fruit on garden trees; that from standards is small, but
of good quality. As the fruits fall before ready to gather, they should not be severely
thinned. It varies much in shape from peg top to a blunt oval.

Le LECTIER. —S#7# smooth and shining ; colour dull green, covered with faint dots,
slightly russet round the eye; /esh palest primrose, melting, juicy, and free from grit;
flavour quite first-rate, sweet, and delicious ; season January and February ; growth free
and vigorous, upright, with fine glossy foliage. F.C.C. 1894.

LOUISE BONNE OF JERSEY (Beurré d’Avranches).—.S#z7 smooth and shining, some-
times with russet patches ; colour pale green, with deep chocolate crimson—sometimes
scarlet—flush ; flesh white, crisp, and very juicy; favour very sweet and refreshing,
first-class; season October; growth moderate, upright, with narrow foliage. A very
free bearer, succeeding in any form, and one of the handsomest sorts.

MARGUERITE MARILLAT.—S£#im smooth, almost shining; colour pale orange with
red flush, and irregular patches of russet; flesh palest primrose, melting and juicy;
flavour rich; season early October ; grow/h upright and vigorous. A grand garden
pear, bears freely on the Quince stock, and is often 1 lb. in weight. Superb as a wall
fruit on the Pear stock.

MARIE BENOIST.—S£7”, when fruits are from a wall or orchard-house, bright pale
green, netted and flecked with cinnamon-russet, but when from open trees often entirely
covered with russet ; #esh palest cream, half-melting ; favour rich and sweet; season
December and January; evow?h slow on the Quince, moderate on the Pear stock. This
varies very much in quality, but is often first-rate.

MARIE LouIsE.—Sziz, smooth when from wall fruit, but when in the open often
covered with russety patches; co/our golden, or very rich nut-brown ; flesh tender, melt-
ing, and very juicy; favour extremely rich, quite first-class; season October and

THE PEAR 137

November ; growth very free and twiggy. Succeeds as a standard in good soils, but is
best as open espalier or on a wall. Grows less freely on the Quince, and bears well
every other year.

MARIE LOUISE D’UCCLE.—Sézm smooth, with rough patches ; colour orange and
green, with russet spots and dots and an orange brown cheek ; flesh white, crisp ; favour
sweet, rich ; season October; growth very robust, with deep green leaves. Though not
first-class, it is so hardy that it frequently bears when pears are scarce ; the fruit is very
large and handsome.

MARQUIS (Rivers’).—S#7m slightly rough, with russet patches and dots ; colour pale
to bright green, bronzy on sunny side ; fesh creamy brown, half melting and juicy ;
flavour rich and vinous ; season Christmas ; growzh fair on the Quince stock. This new
pair resembles Beurré Hardy and Easter Beurré, and has a large open eye, the stalk
being inserted in a deep cavity ; very promising.

MICHAELMAS NELIS.—S£z7z smooth ; colour pale yellow with green dots, lemon
on shaded side, russety near stalk ; flesh white, buttery, and melting, no grit; favour
sweet and luscious, very rich and perfumed; season middle to end of September ;
growth vigorous. A seedling from Winter Nelis, which it resembles in form. Perhaps
no pear in its season equals this, but it must be gathered before it parts readily from the
tree, or, like many early sorts, it rots at the core. Grows freely on the Quince and Pear
stocks. A.M. 1goz.

NOUVELLE FULVIE.— Sim rough, very irregular; colour pale green, with russet
spots and very minute dots, sometimes with a chocolate flush, and when grown on open
trees, russety ; flesh tender and melting ; favour first-class, rich and sweet ; season
February to March ; growth moderate. Succeeds as a garden tree in the open, but is
best from wall trees ; bears moderately ; shape very variable. F.C.C. 1900.

OLIVIER DE SERRES.—Sfiz rough, covered with nut-brown russet, with pale green
patches showing through in places, slightly tinged with dull bronze on the sunny side ;
Jiesh dull golden, firm, half-melting, juicy ; flavour very rich indeed, quite first-rate ;
season January to March; growth moderate, very knotty at joints, fine for cordons,
pyramids, or garden trees in any form. Must remain on trees till November. A.M.
1900.

PASSE CRASSANE.—S£7m smooth, but often rough from trees in the open ; colour
pale brown and green, but more often entirely covered with russet, especially round the
stalk and eye ; flesh melting, nearly white ; flavour very rich, briskly acid, refreshing,
first-class ; season January and February; growth slow, on the Quince stock. When
well grown this pear is grand, but it is very captious, and should be tried on walls in good
pear soils only. F.C.C. 1898.

PETITE MARGUERITE.—Sfiz smooth, with faint russet; colour green, mottled
yellow, bronzy on sunny side ; flesh yellowish, half melting and juicy ; /Zavour rich, sweet
and pleasant; season September; growth free, succeeds in all forms; an enormous
bearer, and a good variety for orchard culture.

PITMASTON DUCHESS.—S4#zz smooth, sometimes patched and striped with russet ;
colour pale green to yellow ; flesh firm, half-melting and juicy ; favour in good seasons
first-rate, but in cold years apt to be acid and poor; season October; growth very
robust, with handsome foliage. Succeeds in all forms. A fine pear for bottling and
stewing ; fruits often weigh 14 Ib. F.C.C. 1874.

PRESIDENT BARABE.—S#27 russety, but in well-grown examples smoother; colour
rich golden, and cinnamon; favour first-class, extra fine quality; /vesh milk-white,
melting, and juicy; season March and later; growth moderate ; a really grand fruit.
It has not inaptly been termeda spring Doyenné du Comice, and is quite worthy of a wall.
When well grown is large and delicious. F.C.C. 1901.

PRINCESS.—S4zz smooth and shining, rarely russety ; colour green and pale green
with a brownish tinge, dark-green dots under the skin; #esh white, juicy, and melting ;
flavour briskly acid, very good; season October; growth compact, upright. A very free
bearer, valuable for market culture, and one to be depended upon in poor seasons; fine
as a cordon.

138 THE FRUIT GARDEN

SAINT LUKE (Rivers’).—Sé#im rough, russety ; colour deep cinnamon - brown with
green patches; flesh melting, juicy; favour rich and sweet; season October; growth
moderate on the Quince stock. This, we believe, will prove a valuable variety.

SECKLE.—Sézn slightly rough ; colour mahogany-red with silvery dots; /zesh white,
crisp, and half-melting, juicy; favour peculiar, rich, and aromatic; season October;
growth neat and compact with narrow foliage on long footstalks. Many like the
peculiar flavour and aroma of this little pear, but it is not always first-class.

SOUVENIR DU CONGRES.—S&iz smooth, polished, knobby, and uneven ; colour
lemon with stripes and blotches of bright orange, scarlet, and red, and small russet dots
over the whole surface; /fesk white and firm; flavour musky, juicy, and pleasant;
season end of September and October; grow7¢h on the Pear stock very free, requires to
be double-grafted on the Quince, and then grows slowly, but bears freely, and often
produces fruits 14 lb. in weight.

THOMPSON’S.—.Skim fairly smooth, frequently knobbed ; colour pale lemon yellow ;
Jiesh melting, very juicy ; favour sweet, perfumed, and delicious ; season September and
October ; growzh upright ; fodiage narrow and drooping. Succeeds as astandard and as a
garden tree in all forms, but must be double grafted when on Quince stock.

TRIOMPHE DE VIENNE.—Sé#zm rather harsh ; colour pale orange, with russet spots
and specks, russety near stalk; flesh crisp, melting ; favour brisk, and very sweet and
rich, much better when gathered before it parts freely from the tree ; season September
and October; growth free and compact. A garden pear of great excellence, very hand-
some. If gathered early the flavour is very good, apt to rot at the core if left too long
on the tree.

UVEDALE’S ST. GERMAIN (Spring Beurré, Pickering, Belle Angevine, Pound Pear).—
Skin harsh ; colour green and primrose, sometimes golden in hot seasons, with bright
brick-red cheek covered with minute spots; /esh crisp and tough, greenish white ;
flavour, only used as a stewing pear; season November to May; growth very vigorous.
Succeeds as a standard; fruits often are 2 Ibs. in weight from wall trees; it is best upon
a wall. It succeeds on the Quince or Pear stock.

VERULAM (Pound Pear, Black Jack, Warden).—Siz rough and harsh; colour
cinnamon to bronzy red; fesh hard and gritty, crisp; favour resembling that of Marie
Louise; a useful stewing pear; season February, March; grow¢h remarkably free,
forms a large tree. On a cool wall the fruit will often be very large, and almost fit for
dessert.

VICAR OF WINKFIELD (Bon Curé).—S/2 smooth and shining; colour dull pea-
green with a brownish or crimson flush; jes white, crisp ; flavour second-rate, valuable
for stewing ; season December ; growth very free, pendent, with long-stalked leaves.
It is a free bearer and very handsome, but more suitable for decoration or stewing than
for dessert.

WILLIAMS’ BON CHRETIEN (Bartlett, Williams’).—S#z smooth, with patches of
russet ; colour yellow, often with a carmine flush, or when from open trees frequently
russety ; /esz melting, very juicy ; flavour highly perfumed ; season September; growth
sturdy, upright, and compact. This well-known fruit succeeds in any form, but garden
trees on the Quince stock produce the best fruits.

WINTER NELIS (Bonne de Malines).—Sfzm rough and russety from open trees, and
nearly smooth when from a wall; colour pale yellowish green with patches of nut-brown;
flesh melting, slightly gritty towards the core, cream coloured; flavour sweet, yet brisk;
season November to March; growth thin and sparse, with small foliage on long foot-
stalks. Can only be depended upon as a garden tree or on walls, which culture it well
deserves. F.C.C. 1902.

ZEPHIRIN GREGOIRE.—S&i2 smooth and polished ; colour green, mottled with yellow ;
Jesh white, melting, and juicy ; favour sweet and delicious ; season December—-January ;
growth thin, and spreading ; fodéage sparse. Forms a neat garden tree on the Quince
stock. A fine sort for walls when grown on Pear stock.

TYPICAL PYRAMID PEAR TREES.

‘HIMOYUD S.NOSFAS ISUIA ONIAOHS
‘STINFINE.G FUVIA NOdQ GATAFNYD SHNITFN FC aINTHaATSOL NPIL

THE PEAR 139

SELECTIONS OF DESSERT PEARS

For SMALL GarpDENS

Petite Marguerite . . . . September | Emile d’Heyst . . . . . November
Williams’ Bon Chrétien . . 35 Beurré Superfin . -
Conference . . . . October Belle Julie . . . . 3s
Louise Bonne . . B! rg 53 Fondante de Thirriot . : 43
Durondeau. . . . . November Doyenné du Comice . . . Nov., Dec.

Pitmaston Duchess 5

_Asamateurs do not often possess fruit stores, the later varieties are omitted; the most
reliable of these are Josephine de Malines, Winter Nelis, and Duchesse de Bordeaux.
The above are suitable for pyramids, cordons, and wall trees.

For GarpDEN CULTURE

Jargonelle. . . . . . . July Beurré Diel . . . . . . Oct. Nov.
Souvenir du Congrés . . . September Doyenné du Comice . . . Nov., Dec.
Williams’ Bon Chrétien . . 3 Knight’s Monarch . . . . Nov., Feb.
Triomphe de Vienne. . . 55 Winter Nelis . a 3
Fondante d’Automne. . . - Charles Ernest . . . . . November
Marguerite Marillat ‘ 3 Beurré du Buisson. . . . December
Michaelmas Nelis. . . . EndofSept. | Beurré de Jonghe . . Jan., Feb.
Conference . . . . . . October Easter Beurré eo 8 Boe is
Louise Bonne of Jersey . . % Nouvelle Fulvie . Sy oad 3
Thompson’s Sy iia ss Josephine de Malines. . . Dec., Feb.
Durondeau . . » . . Oct, Nov. Olivierde Serres. . . . . Feb.,March
Marie Louise. . . — $5 Beurré Perran . . . . . February
Emile d’Heyst . . ... 34 Beurré Rance. . . . . . Feb.,March
Beurré Superfin. . . . . ” Duchesse de Bordeaux 3
Beurré Hardy ..... 35 Doyenné d’Alencgon. : 33
Beurré Bosc . . . . . 99 | President Barabe . 3 $5

All the above are suitable for cordons, espaliers, or bushes.

For Orcuarp STANDARDS

CRAWFORD OR CHALK.—August. Fruit pale yellowish green, small and sweet ;
crops heavily and has short leafy upright growth ; often planted as a protection to other
trees on the windy sides of plantations. .

LAMMaS.—August. A bright yellow and red fruit of second-rate flavour, but being
early it sells well; growth free.

DR. JULES GUYOT.—See page 135.

WILLIAMS’.—See page 138. ;

HESSLE.—August-September. Small golden fruit with black specks; very free
bearer ; flavour sweet and pleasant ; forms a weeping tree. : : :

BEURRE DE CAPIAUMONT.—September-October. A medium-sized fruit, russety
brown and orange-red ; a very great bearer and upright grower. .

BEURRE CLAIRGEAU.—October. A very large, handsome fruit with crimson flush ;
a free bearer, making close, upright trees on Quince stock, and large orchard trees on
Pear stock. Its size and beauty render it valuable.

BEURRE Bosc.—See page 132.

-140 THE FRUIT GARDEN

BEURRE JEAN VAN GEERT.—See page 133.

DovENNE D’ETE.—See page 134.

DOYENNE BOUSSOCH.—See page 134.

DURONDEAU.—See page 135.

EMILE D’HEYST.—See page 135.

FERTILITY.—September. Growth free. Very prolific; fruit dull chocolate-brown,
second-rate, but pays because of its fertility.

JARGONELLE.— See page 136.

PETITE MARGUERITE.—See page 137.

PITMASTON DUCHESS.—See page 137.

SUMMER CRASSANE (Aston Town).—Small greenish fruit with long stalk, very sweet
and rich. Bears well when old ; growth long and drooping.

Best Market Pears as BusHEs ON QUINCE STOCK

Beurré Hardy, Beurré Superfin, Conference, Doyenné du Comice, Fondante de
Thirriot, Louise Bonne, Princess, Souvenir du Congres, Pettte Marguerite, Pitmaston
Duchess, Emile @ Heyst, Durondeau, Doyenné Boussoch, Beurré Jean Van Geert, Beurré
Clairgeau, Williams’ Bon Chrétien, and Dr. Jules Guyot.

Pears oF REecENT INTRODUCTION AND OTHERS

BARON LEeRoy.—A November fruit of rich flavour, from the Continent. Resembles
Chaumontel.

BELLE GUERANDAISE.—A Continental November fruit of rich, sweet flavour. Is
not fully ripe until the skin can be peeled off.

COMTE DE LAMy.—This delicious fruit is omitted from the list because of its small
size and awkward growth. October.

DUCHESSE D’ANGOULEME.—Many may be surprised that this is omitted from the
best, but although a free bearer, it is not above stewing quality, except in favourable
situations. :

GLASTONBURY.—A fruit resembling Brown Beurré ; first-class, but a shy bearer in
places. October-November. F.C.C. R.H.S. Known as Benedictine, Beurré d’Avalon,
and Porch’s Beurré.

GENERAL WAUCHOPE.—A useful new fruit, resembling Glou Morceau or Marie
Louise in shape ; of grand flavour for a February pear. A.M. R.H.S.

LE BRuN.—A very long, bright green fruit, which ripens at the end of October and
has the musky flavour of Williams’ Bon Chrétien.

PARROT.—A very richly-flavoured Bergamot-like fruit ; ripe in October. A promising
garden pear.

ST. EDMUNDS.—One of Messrs. Rivers’ new sorts ; ripens in November. It is very
sweet, and has a good aromatic flavour.

Persimmon, THE (see p. 208).

PEAR WILLIAMS’ BON CHRETIEN.

CHAPTER XII

THE PINEAPPLE

By OWEN THOMAS

THE pineapple, so named from its resemblance to the cone of the pine, grows
wild in abundance in many parts of Africa and South America, where it is
indigenous, and where it affords a valuable source of food to the native popula-
tion. ‘The first pineapple in Europe is said to have been grown by M. le Cour
of Leyden. The Earl of Portland was the means of introducing this plant into
England from Holland in the year 1690,

Brookshaw relates that when the pineapple first produced fruit in England
it was deemed to be so great a curiosity, and of so much importance, that persons
of rank came from France, Holland, and Germany to see it. He concludes it
must have been very rare, even had it in any instance produced fruits before the
year 1716. Phillips, in his Pomarium Britannicum, says that “this fruit must
have been known in England long before it was attempted to be grown here, as
Lord Bacon mentions it in his Essay on Plantations, which was published nearly
a century before the introduction of the pineapple by the Earl of Portland ; but
I am strongly persuaded that the fruit had been cultivated in this country at a
much earlier period than that mentioned by Sloane, and this opinion has been
strengthened by a curious old picture which the Earl of Waldegrave obligingly
showed me in the breakfast-room of his beautiful residence, Strawberry Hall,
Twickenham. ‘The painting represents King Charles II. in a garden before
his palace at Ham, attended by two of his favourite breeds of spaniels, where
Rose, the royal gardener, is presenting his Majesty with the first pineapple.” It
is probable that the method of raising the pine not being understood, the plants
were by some accident lost in this country until they were introduced a second
time. ‘The interest aroused on its first introduction and in its successful cul-
tivation has been more or less maintained from that time until now. This was
especially the case thirty or forty years ago when the art of successful pine
culture was held in such high esteem. I well remember the great enthusiasm
of those days in the culture of this fruit, and the tireless efforts put forth to
excel in the same, and it is certain that finer pineapples than were grown in
those days have never been seen in this country. Indeed I believe I am justified
in saying that the art of pineapple culture has steadily declined from that time
to the present, with very few notable exceptions. The cause of this is not far
to seek, and is chiefly accounted for, not only by the increased number of pine-
apples imported into this country, but also by the great improvement in their
quality as placed on the markets. There is, however, no comparison as regards

141

142 THE ERUIT GARDEN

flavour and quality between say, a home-grown Queen Pine of 4 or 5 Ibs. in
weight and an imported fruit. The former one would be proud to place in
the best and most select dessert, not so the latter.

PRopaGaTION.—The propagation of the pineapple may be effected in four
different ways, namely, by means of the crown of the fruit, by suckers, by the
stem of the plant, and by seed.

The quickest and best method is by means of suckers; this is most gener-
ally practised. The suckers, i.e. the young plants which grow from the base of
the stem of the parent plant, should be left upon the latter until they are of
good size, say 18 inches long. The Queen Pine is prolific in bearing suckers,
and the majority of these usually appear in spring; frequently one plant will
produce five or six. As soon as they are large enough to handle, they should
be reduced to one or two, according to the number required. It is better, for the
plant’s sake and for the suckers as well, that only one be left, as a stronger
sucker will then result. ‘The successful growth of the pine depends so much
upon the careful treatment of the sucker that I may be excused for dwelling
particularly on this point. ‘Towards the beginning of May the surplus suckers
must be removed. Some care is needed to do this without injuring the
plant. The best way is to press down the sucker away from the stem and give
it a twist, when it is easily detached. "The one or two that are left, as the case
may be, will then grow rapidly, and towards the end of August will have made
strong and sturdy plants, from 18 inches to 2 feet long, and that is the best time
to remove them for potting.

‘The next mode of propagation is by the crown (.e. the leafy growth at the
apex of the fruit). This takes much longer to make a plant and produce a
fruit than the method we have just been considering, and is resorted to only in
the case of varieties which produce few suckers. The only preparation necessary
before the crown is ready for insertion in the pot is to take off a few of the bottom
leaves, leaving about half an inch of the base bare ; in time roots will be emitted
from this if the crown is potted firmly into a 4-inch pot and plunged in a bottom
heat of 70 degs.

The third method spoken of is to lay the hard part of the stem, after the
leaves have been stripped off, in shallow pans or boxes partially filled with light
loamy soil, covering them over to the depth of half an inch, and plunging them
in a bottom heat of the temperature recommended above. This is a useful
method to adopt when it is desired to increase the stock of choice and scarce
varieties. It will be about three years before the young plants propagated in this
way will give any return in fruit, and probably longer, but as one stem will
often produce from five to six plants it is a useful method for increasing stock.

By seed.—When pine culture was so highly thought of and so generally
practised in this country between thirty and forty years ago, many attempts were
made to raise new varieties by cross-fertilising the older ones, and some few new
sorts were obtained in this way. However, they were no improvement on older
varieties, and for this reason soon disappeared. Seed-propagation in the case of
the pine is only resorted to when it is hoped that an improved new variety may
be produced.

THE PINEAPPLE 143

VarieTiges.—I am afraid there is no great field for improvement in the
varieties of the pine, those we already possess being so excellent. The best
are the Queen, Smooth Cayenne, Charlotte Rothschild, and Black Jamaica.
Others that used to be grown, but which are now almost forgotten, are:
Providence, a huge variety, producing large coarse fruits of poor quality,
often weighing as much as 16 Ibs. each, and taking three years to grow;
Sugarloaf, a handsome conical fruit of an intense crimson colour; Prince
Albert, much like Sugarloaf, only a larger fruit and not quite so conical in
shape ; and Lady Beatrice Lambton. This variety was raised at Lambton
Castle in 1860 by the then gardener, Mr. Stevens. It is a useful and handsome
pineapple of excellent flavour, very distinct both in foliage and fruit; it will
be a pity if it is lost to cultivation. Lord Carrington is another variety intro-
duced by Mr. Miles many years ago. This was popular for a time, especially
as a winter fruiting sort, but the varieties grown of late years in England are
the three following: the Queen, Charlotte Rothschild, and Smooth Cayenne.
There are three recognised forms of the Queen, viz., the Moscow, the
Ripley, and the Thorsby. Ripley is the most handsome, as it is also the
best and the most commonly grown. Thorsby is not unlike the Ripley, but
the fruit is shorter and broader, and the plant rather more compact. The
Moscow is a distinct and valuable pineapple, but now seldom met with. The
plant is of dwarf habit and the fruit of great width, but short and of darker
colour when ripe than the other Queen sorts. Iwo varieties are grown under
the name of Charlotte Rothschild. The genuine one has large, dark, broad
leaves ; the spurious one has long, narrow ones. When at the Royal Gardens
I had the pleasure of sending suckers of the true variety to some of our
Government stations abroad through the Royal Gardens, Kew, and among
them to a plantation in Jamaica, from some of which the superintendent
assured me he had cut fruit weighing 16 lbs. There are also two varieties
grown under the name of Smooth Cayenne. ‘The true variety has dark,
broad, leathery foliage, with here and there a prickle; the other, which is
much inferior, has narrower leaves inclined to curl, is paler in colour, and has
no prickles.

Som.—The best soil for the culture of the pine is fibrous loam; that
cut from land resting on lime on a hillside may generally be depended upon.
It should be cut in turves 4 inches deep and stacked for six months before being
used. Some cultivators used to mix a quantity of peat with the soil, and this is
still the custom in France; indeed, the late Mr. Bergman of Ferri¢res, who
grew pines well, grew them chiefly in peat. I do not advocate the use of peat,
however. The autumn is the best time to secure the turf, it is then com-
paratively dry. It will be in excellent condition for use the following February
or March, the season for potting. When mixing the compost the turf should
be pulled into pieces some 3 inches square and most of the small soil sifted away
from it. Toa barrow-load of loam add one peck of old mortar rubble broken
small, and a 6-inch potful of soot, lime, and }-inch bones. “These several in-
gredients must be well mixed together. Prepare the compost at least a fortnight
before it is wanted for potting.

144 THE FRUIT GARDEN

Prants 1n Borpers.—The pineapple is cultivated in English gardens
in two ways. One is termed the planting-out system, by which is under-
stood that the plants are planted in a border; the other is pot culture. Both
systems were extensively practised at the Royal Gardens, Windsor, and each
had its advantages. By planting out you undoubtedly get larger and heavier
fruits and also economise labour, and there is also an advantage in the long
succession of fruits it is possible to obtain from one house by this method
(especially when suckers of different sizes are planted out in the first instance).
This way is better adapted to the culture of the larger varieties, such as the
Rothschild and Cayenne pineapples. If plenty of leaves are to be had, no doubt
this is the best way to provide the necessary bottom heat. The air of the house
is constantly charged with ammonia by fermentation of the leaves, and with
beech and oak leaves (which are best) this goes on for a long time. This
method of culture was attended with much success at the Royal Gardens,
and I think that I cannot do better than briefly outline the plan followed
there.

THE Srrucrure.—The structures in which the pineapples were planted
out were big pits covered with portable lights like an ordinary frame. “They
were deep enough to hold at least 4 feet of leaves trampled firm; 10 feet wide
to hold five rows of plants, and built in sections of from 30 to 40 feet long
in order to accommodate successional crops planted at different times of the
year. “Iwo rows of 4-inch pipes should be provided (both back and front), on
the top row of which troughs to hold water (for evaporation) should be fixed.
The first house, or more correctly speaking, pit, should be planted as early in
the autumn as it is possible to secure sufficient leaves to form a hot-bed, and
after this has been made at least 4 feet deep and the soil added, the surface
of the bed ought not to be less than 34 feet from the glass. A layer of turf,
grass side downwards, is placed upon the leaves, and upon this again five ridges
of soil. ‘These ridges should be 10 inches high and made firm. If the leaves
have been properly rammed and made firm when placed in the pit the
bottom heat will not rise above 80 degs., which is not too high at the time
of planting.

Prantinc.—The suckers may be planted 2 feet apart, allowing 2 feet
between the ridges, as taken from the parent plant, rootless, in August; the
only preparation necessary is to take off a few of the bottom leaves, leaving about
an inch of the base bare, and cut off the end. The soil should be pressed firmly
against the sucker at the time of planting. There will be very little more to do
to the plants until the following spring; scarcely any shade will be required. A
minimum night temperature of 65 degs. and a maximum of 75 degs. in the
day with sun heat and 70 degs. without, should be maintained throughout the
winter. The young plants will make roots, although making no appreciable
foliage growth. On dry days until the middle of November they should be
slightly syringed over once or twice a day. After this, until the end of January,
the walls and pipes, but not the plants, may be syringed on dry days. If the
soil was fairly moist at the time of planting, the plants will require no water at
the roots before the first week in February (excepting an occasional syringing

“ATdd FANT NATNO FHL TAO YSAOH KF

THE PINEAPPLE 145

to keep the surface moist). Then a good soaking with tepid water may be
given, and the temperature slightly raised.

GENERAL CutruraL Remarks.—The routine of culture during the follow-
ing summer is very simple. Pineapple plants should always be kept rather
dry. I mean by this that they must be allowed to become fairly dry before
water is applied, but when watering does take place let the soil be thoroughly
saturated ; always use warm water. Syringe morning and afternoon, closing
the pit early enough to raise the temperature from 75 to 85 degs. Early
in May the plants will have made considerable growth, and more soil may be
added to the border by filling it in firmly between the ridges. By the end of
September the pit will be completely filled with splendid plants, the strongest
of them most likely showing fruits (I have on one or two occasions cut a
ripe fruit weighing 7 lbs. in seven months from planting a rootless sucker).
As October approaches, lower the temperature somewhat, and keep the soil
drier. When the pit was planted the suckers would be of various sizes, and
this is an advantage which will now be apparent ; some fruits will appear in
the autumn, some in winter, and some in spring and early summer, according to
the size of the suckers when planted. The largest plants should, of course, be
placed in the back rows. Fruits appearing in spring are usually the finest, as
they have all the summer in which to develop. The Rothschild pineapple
not rarely bears fruits weighing 11 Ibs., those 9 lbs. in weight are common.
The Smooth Cayenne variety does not bear quite such heavy fruits, those
weighing 10 lbs. are rare, those from 7 lbs. to 8 lbs. are common, When
February comes round again the temperature should be slightly raised as
in the previous year; water with manure water from the farmyard at a
temperature of 80 degs. The bed will be full of healthy roots, therefore
manure water should be applied in a diluted form at every watering. Keep the
atmosphere moist by syringing, and increase the temperature slightly as the days
become longer and warmer. Before the fruits are heavy, two stakes must be
placed against each for support, otherwise the crown (z.e. the leaves on the top)
becomes crooked, thus altogether spoiling the appearance of the pineapple ;
moreover, as the fruit increases in weight, it must be supported or it would fall.
By the end of September all the fruits will be cut, and there ought to be
a splendid lot of suckers on the old plants. The old soil will serve a most
useful purpose in the potting shed or for forming borders in pits and frames for
the growth of early vegetables. If leaves are scarce the same bed may be used
again, mixing a few fresh ones with the old, although better results will follow
if an entirely new bed is made. The information given will apply equally well
to succeeding crops; when the pits are divided into two or three sections,
and planted at intervals of three months, fruits can be had throughout the
year. Before leaving the subject of planting out the pineapple, it may be of
interest if I make a brief allusion to a method of pine cultivation known as
Hamilton’s system, in favour in England for a short time about thirty years
ago; this is really the method adopted in those countries where the pineapple
grows naturally out-of-doors. After the fruit is produced the suckers are not
taken off, but encouraged to grow and bear fruit while still attached to the

K

146 THE FRUIT GARDEN

parent plant. This system, so well adapted to its culture in tropical countries,
was, as might be expected, found to be entirely unsuitable under artificial con-
ditions such as prevail in British gardens, and so the method was soon discarded.

Por CuLrure.—I mentioned before that the planting-out system was
better adapted for the successful culture of the larger varieties, such as Charlotte
Rothschild and Smooth Cayenne, than for the Queen. I gave the Queen
variety a good trial in this way, but the results were not such as to encourage
me to continue to do so. The restricted root space of the pot evidently
suited the requirements of the Queen variety better than did the border.
I will now return to my reference to the treatment of the sucker when
ready for potting in the month of May. Assuming that the soil was
properly mixed some days previously, and the pots are ready, the first thing
to do is to cover the crocks with the roughest part of the fibrous material
of the potting soil, and upon this place the compost loosely until it is
above the sides of the pot. Press the suckers into the soil about 3 inches
below the pot rim, and afterwards make the soil quite firm by ramming. I
have not recommended any organic manure to be mixed with the soil; no
medium is better than fresh, fibrous soil. The suckers must next be plunged
into the material of the propagating pit. A lean-to pit is suitable, and it should
have a bed deep enough to hold from 4 to 5 feet of litter and leaves, with a
bottom heat of at least 85 or go degs. at first. The atmospheric tem-
perature in the day-time without sun-heat should be from 70 to 75 degs.
The temperature of the manure and leaves in which the plants are plunged
will gradually decrease as decomposition takes place, so that when roots have
been emitted, say in three weeks’ time, it will have cooled down to about
73 degs., and this is the heat to promote root action. I have found it an
advantage to plunge the potted suckers closely together, allowing them
to remain so for the first month or six weeks. In this way they are
easily kept moist. If the soil is moderately moist when the suckers are
potted, no water should be given for at least a fortnight. For the first
fortnight heavy shade must be given, and the plants slightly syringed with
tepid water several times during the day. On fine sunny afternoons close the
pit early, after previously syringing. As the sun declines so will the heat of
the pit, until the thermometer registers 70 degs., at which it should be kept
during the night for the next two months, that is, until the end of October.
At the end of a month after the sucker has been potted it will be found that
roots have been freely produced, and I would advise that the plants be moved
and replunged in the pit and in the same material, but considerably wider
apart. It must be remembered that the young plants are now starting on their
own account, as it were; previously they had existed on their parent. ‘They
must be given plenty of room through the subsequent stages of growth, as if
crowded, it is hopeless and unreasonable to expect the best results. Heavy
shade must be discontinued after the first three weeks, substituting shading of
a lighter nature; by the middle of September it should be left off altogether.
The treatment to be observed during the winter months is very simple. By
the end of November the pots will have become full of healthy young roots,

THE PINEAPPLE 147

and growth, both of foliage and roots, will have almost ceased temporarily.
The plants consequently will be more or less at rest. A minimum temperature
of 60 degs. and a maximum of 70 degs., according to the varying conditions of
the weather, will be sufficiently high, and this applies to bottom as well as top
heat. In very severe weather I would recommend that as a means of main-
taining the necessary temperature a covering material of, for instance, mats or
heavy tiffany be placed on the roof of the pit. “The atmospheric temperature
of the pit had far better fall considerably below the average recommended
on an unusually cold night than that the pipes should be uncomfortably hot.
There is nothing more detrimental to the pine—especially in winter, when it
should be at rest—than an arid heat. Towards the end of February is the time
for the suckers to be transferred to the pots in which they will bear fruit.
The size of pot which I recommend is 11 inches in diameter at the top
(inside). Needless to say, the pot must be scrupulously clean and also the
crocks, and in the case of this final removal the drainage (pieces of broken pots),
must be at least three-quarters of an inch deep. A very wet condition of the
soil at any time in the culture of pines must be avoided if best results are
desired ; hence the necessity of careful and ample drainage. As regards soil for
this final potting, the same is recommended as used for the planted-out pines.
I do not advocate much manure being added to the soil for the culture of fruit
trees in pots, and especially for the pine. Liquid manure can be given when
the plants have finished flowering and the fruits commence to swell.

Fina. Porrinc.—At the final potting the same care must be observed in
mixing the soil as was the case in preparing it for the suckers, but little of the
small soi! should be used. Before the young pine plant is turned out of its pot
it will be necessary to take away three or four of the small leaves at the base of
the plant. The object is to induce the plant to form additional roots from the
stem where the leaves have been taken off. When about to transfer the
plant into its fruiting pot be sure that the roots are not dry. It is a fatal
error to plant a dry mass of roots into new soil. Failure is sure to follow.
The crocks, as in the case of the sucker pot, must first be covered with an inch
of the rough pieces of soil well rammed down with the potting stick ; after-
wards as much soil placed upon this as will allow the surface soil of the plant to
be embedded at least an inch deeper in the larger pot than it was before. New
roots will then be produced from the base of the stem. Firm potting is
essential to success in pine-growing. The pit to receive the newly potted
plants is filled to the depth of 4 feet, with good leaves, oak, or beech for prefer-
ence. No manure likely to ferment must be used; not a high, but a steady
and lasting bottom heat is required. The leaves must be trodden as firmly
as possible. When the bottom heat does not exceed 75 to 80 degs. the
plants may be plunged in their permanent quarters.

SuMMER TREATMENT.—No water must be given for at least a fortnight ;
when the plants should have a good soaking, water them twice with water at
the temperature of 80 degs. This should suffice for another fortnight at least.
As new roots and fresh growth are made more water will be needed, especially
as the days lengthen and the sun has greater power. The watering after this

148 THE FRUIT GARDEN

period must be left to the good judgment of the cultivator, who should always
bear in mind that the pine does not like much water either at the root or
upon the foliage. The water used for watering or syringing must be as
warm as the temperature of the house. During bright and sunny weather
plenty of moisture in the atmosphere should be afforded by syringing the walls
and surfaces of the beds morning and afternoon, and also by having troughs
to hold water on the pipes. As the summer advances the plants will make
rapid growth, and shading should be entirely discontinued. If by accident, or
any other cause, the plants happen to be checked in growth, and are thereby
weakened, shading becomes necessary for a time.

Winter TREATMENT.—If all has gone well during the summer, by the
month of October the plants will be fully grown, and should reward the grower
with a crop of fine fruits early the following summer. Water at the roots
must be sparingly given all through the winter. The soil, of course, must
never be allowed to become quite dry. The plants are now fully developed, and
all that is necessary to keep them in good health is to allow them to rest until
the middle or end of the following February. Then will be the critical time
in the life of the pine, as well as an anxious one for the cultivator. If the plant
has been well grown, is fully developed, and has a pot full of healthy active
roots, a close observer will soon find a thickening at the base of the plant, an
expansion of the central leaves, and before many days are over, the crown of
the embryo fruit will be visible.

Fruirinc.—The temperature may then be slightly raised, as growth has
again commenced, and the object must be to raise the temperature as much
as possible by means of sun heat rather than by artificial heat. This will
be made easier every week as the days lengthen and the sun gains more
power. If the bottom heat has fallen much below 70 degs., it will be necessary
to add fresh leaves as well as some fresh litter from the stable, well mixing them
with the old leaves in the bed. This will give the extra bottom heat required,
and will afford a gentle stimulus to the plants ; the fruits will be ripe from the
end of May to the end of July. Careful watch must be kept while the
fruits are in flower against the depredations of cockroaches and crickets. These
pests are very partial to the flowers of the pine, and if there should be any in
the pit means must be taken to destroy them. This is best effected by pouring
boiling water between the walls and the bed of leaves, for there they find lodgment
in the day-time ; if this remedy is persevered with daily for a week or so,
complete immunity from these pests should be enjoyed. Some good poison
paste should also be laid on the surface of the bed. It is very important to
secure perfect fertilisation of the flowers, otherwise the fruits will be disfigured
by some of the pips refusing to swell. Fertilisation generally takes place
without artificial assistance. All the cultivator can do to help is to keep the
atmosphere of the house rather dry, and not to syringe the plants. If danger is
apprehended from insects, a little black pepper sprinkled on the flowers will
protect them and will do the flowers no harm. I stated at the commencement
of this chapter that little or no manure was necessary for the successful culture
of the pine to a certain time. That time has now arrived. The first watering

THE PINEAPPLE 149

the plant receives after the fruit is formed should consist of water in which a
little guano has been mixed, and a safe proportion to use is a handful to three
gallons of water. Although the plant will now take water much more freely
care must be taken not to keep the soil always wet. I have found it is best to
vary the stimulants given, thus: water once with guano water, then clear
water, the next time with soot water, again with clear water, then with manure
water from the stableyard, and with clear water, commencing again with guano.
I have found it to be helpful to the development of the fruits to syringe them
slightly two or three times a week on very hot days. I have now brought the
reader within measurable distance of the goal aimed at, namely, the production
of a good pineapple.

Tue Ripe Fruir.—As the period of ripeness approaches precaution is
necessary against damage by crickets, &c. I have seen splendid fruits spoiled
in a night by these; the best protection is a band of cotton-wool tied:
round the stem. In very hot weather, when the fruit has commenced to
change colour, it is well to hang a piece of thin paper over it to prevent
disfigurement by the sun. The fruit should be cut before it is quite ripe,
and hung near the roof of a warm, airy house. When quite ripe it should
be hung in a dry fruit-room until wanted for dessert or exhibition. In
summer a pineapple will remain in good condition for about ten days after it is
cut. In winter I have often kept fruits for three weeks. I will only add that
the plants, after the fruits are cut, must remain where they are until the suckers,
which have been previously reduced to one or two, as advised before, have
grown into strong plants ready for potting in the month of August.

GENERAL Notes,—The bottom heat I have recommended so far has been
procured by means of fermenting materials only, and where these are available
in sufficient quantities, one could wish for no better. True, more work is
entailed in preparing the beds for plunging than would be the case if hot-water
pipes were used ; still it must not be forgotten that in addition to valuable
bottom heat being provided (without the expense of fuel), an indispensable
article in everyday use in the garden (leaf soil) is being gradually formed.
Where leaves in plenty are not to be had, excellent pineapples can be grown
by the substitution of hot-water pipes for the fermenting material. I do not
advocate building hot-water tanks for atmospheric moisture, but pipes having
troughs deep enough to hold a good quantity of water for evaporation. The
pipes should be fixed underneath the bed, with a covering (forming the base
of the bed) of slates or iron liberally perforated with holes, so that the heat can
easily escape, and so give the necessary bottom heat. Four 4-inch pipes should
be provided, supposing the border to be wide enough to hold five rows of plants ;
by having a valve on both the flow and return pipes, the heat can be regulated.

Insect Enemies.—As regards these, I only know of two which give any
trouble, viz. the white and brown scale (and sometimes mealy bug). To eradicate
the white scale many remedies have been recommended by different authorities ;
but, speaking from an experience of nearly forty years, I would unhesitatingly
say that there is no known remedy effective enough to rid the plants of these
troublesome pests, and the only way in which immunity can be secured is by

150 THE FRUIT GARDEN

destroying the plants and the insects together, and burning also the material in
which they have been plunged, afterwards burning sulphur in the house three
or four times in succession, having it whitewashed and painted and some other
crop grown there during the next twelve months. By then it will be safe to
start again with fresh plants. The best way to get rid of brown scale and
mealy bug on pines is by the application of hot water, and apply this by means
of a small piece of sponge tied to a stick ; the insects are then easily reached.

TEMPERATURES FOR THE YEAR

WITHOUT SUN HEAT.

Maximum (by Day). Minimum (by Night).
January ‘ from 68 to 70 degs. From 60 to 65 degs.
February. ‘ » 68to70 ,, » 60to6s5 ,,
March ; F » 69t072 ,, » 62to 66 ,,
April . » 70t073 5, » 64to67 ,,
May » 72t075 4, » 65 to68 ,,
June ; 9 FRAO 55 » O6to69 ,,
July » 75t079 ,, ” 68 to 79 55
August » 75to8 ,, » O68to7l ,,
September » 74to 78 ,, » 66to68 ,,
October : 73 10°70. 55 » 64to66 ,,
November . . sy JLtO7A 55 » 63to65 ,,
December » ©8to72 ,, » 60to63 ,,

[Bottom heat temperature : in winter, 65 to 70 degs.; in summer, 70 to 75 degs.]

When the house is closed in the afternoon, the temperature, influenced by the
sun heat, may be allowed to rise considerably higher than the maximum given in
the tables, especially from the end of April to the end of July, but it should
never exceed go degs.

STANDARD BY WHICH TO JUDGE THE PrinEappLe.—Perfect ripeness ; each
pip fully developed ; poorly formed pips caused through imperfect fertilisa-
tion of the flowers to be considered a fault. The surface of the ripe pine
should have a rich golden appearance, with a certain liquid exudation in places.
The aroma should be rich and highly fragrant. A pale colour with pointed and
poorly developed pips, a generally dried-up appearance of the fruit, are serious
defects, and consequently lessen the value of the pine materially. A good
Queen pine when ripe, especially in the height of summer, should weigh from
4 to 5 lbs. (they have been grown 7 or 8 Ibs. in weight). Charlotte Rothschild
from 7 to 9 lbs. is a good fruit ; this may be had weighing from 10 to 12 lbs.
The Smooth Cayenne will usually range from 1 to 2 Ibs. less in weight. The
crown, to be well proportioned, should be half the length of the fruit, and
slightly tapering towards the apex. A crown very large or very small is con-
sidered a fault. The growth of the crown may be arrested, if it is desired to do
so, by inserting a hot iron in the centre. In estimating the weight of a pine,
a pound to a pip used to be considered a safe guide. It is so still in a well-
developed, broad-set fruit, especially with Charlotte Rothschild and Smooth
Cayenne, but very seldom so with the Queen.

CHAPTER XIV

THE PLUM
Cutture on Watts

By OWEN THOMAS

Tue Wild Sloe and Bullace are indigenous to this country, and in all probability
the only ones that are natives, but like the wild crab-apple they have furnished
stocks for every variety of their own species; this fruit appears to have been
attended to in early days, if we may judge from the variety that Gerarde had in
his garden in Holborn in 1597. “I have,” says he, “three score sorts in my
garden, and all strange and rare; there be in many other places many more
common, and yet cometh to our hands others not before known. The greatest
varieties of these rare plums are to be found in the grounds of Master Richard
Pointer of Twickenham.” The damson or Damascene plum takes its name from
Damascus, where it grows in great quantities, and whence it was brought into
Italy about 114 years B.c. Speaking of the greengage the same authority says :
“This latter plum was called the Reine Claude, from having been introduced
into France by the Queen Claude, wife to Francis the First of that country,
but it bears various names in different parts of France.” It is often called
“Damas Vert” ; at Rouen, where it grows abundantly, they call it “La Verte
Bonne.” Lord Cromwell brought several sorts of plums from Italy into this
country in the reign of Henry VII. Thus has the plum given pleasure and
administered to the wants of man from time immemorial up to the present
day.

Mwiiethee considered as a fruit for dessert, cooking, or preserving, the plum
is of great importance and value. Most varieties in cultivation at the
present time may be successfully grown in the orchard or in the open garden,
and where the object is to grow the fruit for market these are the methods. to
adopt. But there are some varieties of the very highest merit that can only be
successfully grown where the trees are planted against walls.

Few of our hardy fruits present less difficulties in their culture than the
plum. Planted against a wall it will succeed equally well exposed to any
aspect, and this is a valuable attribute, as the season of the best dessert varieties
can be so much prolonged by planting trees on different aspects. For instance,
take the many varieties of gages (and as long as we can secure these for dessert
few lovers of the plum will wish for any other); by planting the old greengage,
and, what is better still as regards richness of flavour and earliness, Denniston’s

Superb, on a south wall, ripe gages may be had in August, and if a few trees
151

152 THE FRUIT GARDEN

are planted on east, west, and north walls, a continuous supply of delicious
greengages may be had for many weeks in succession.

PLantinc.—With respect to the preparation of the border before the young
trees are planted, it goes without saying that good drainage must be provided.
As regards the soil which best suits the plum, the instructions given in the case
of the cherry will apply equally to the plum, although soil of rather a lighter
and warmer nature will give better results. In any case the border must be
trenched at least 24 feet deep, and a little new loam and well-decayed manure
mixed with the soil where the young tree is planted, adding a small quantity
of lime at the time of trenching. I have found the best results accrue
from a fan-trained tree, and this I would recommend in all cases. Fan-

PORTION OF BRANCH IN CHARACTERISTIC SUMMER GROWTH

(0) Continuation of branch growth; (4) side shoots marked for pinching at third leaf
when not required for training to furnish tree or space with bearing wood, and in
winter to be shortened to one or two buds from main stem to form spurs; (g) short
stubby shoots that need not be pinched; (7),spurs, short stubby shoots with the
leaves close together about the apex ; (s) fruit produced on the preceding year's
wood ; (2) fruit produced on spurs of the preceding summer's formation, with spurs
at side for bearing the following year. Numerals refer to the age of wood. A
terminal shoot (leafless) with spurs on sides is shown separately.

trained trees can be bought at much less cost than a private grower could
prepare them. Do not plant too deeply; as a guide to the proper depth
to place the tree, one will be safe in following the example of the nursery-
man. How deep it was planted in the nursery will be plainly indicated
on the stem of the tree by the soil mark, and this is the depth at which
it should be planted again. As regards the distance apart the trees should
be planted, the character of the variety must be taken into consideration
as some are much stronger growers than others; as a guide to the inex-
perienced I may say that the strong-growing varieties are possessed of large
leaves and the medium or smaller growers of small leaves. I do not advocate
the planting of trained trees very far apart, for the reason that so much valuable
wall space is left bare for a number of years, even when standard trees are
planted between. I know that close planting is open to the objection that

THE PLUM 153

when the trees meet, as they will do in the course of years, one must be
sacrificed to make room for the other, that is, if unlimited extension is per-
mitted to the tree which is intended to be the permanent one. I contend
that far better returns of fruit are obtained during the early life of the tree by
close planting. When the trees have met and the wall is entirely clothed with
fruitful growth, I have found it of advantage, in the case of comparatively young
trees, such as they would be at this stage, to arrest their extension for a few
years by shortening the leading shoots. After three years, if it is decided to
make room for the further extension of the permanent tree, it is an easy matter
gradually to cut away the trees on either side as much as is required. By this

RESULT OF SHORTENING VIGOROUS SHOOT AT WINTER PRUNING TO SECURE
SIDE GROWTHS FOR FORMING BRANCHES AT GIVEN POINTS

(z) Point of shortening at winter pruning; (v) natural spurs; (w) shoots pinched to
form spurs; (x) side growths for forming branches to cover the space; (y) continua- ,
tion shoot of main branch,

system the wall is covered with fruitful trees in about half the time it would
take if trees were planted at great distances apart, as frequently recom-
mended. It is scarcely necessary to say that the height of the wall must govern
the distances apart at which trees are planted. Thus, for a wall 12 feet
high the smaller growing plums should be 12 feet apart, the larger growing
sorts 15 feet apart, with fan-trained standards between. On walls of less
height the distance between the trees must be greater in proportion. The
same careful attention will be necessary during the progress of the young plum
tree as recommended in the case of the other fruit trees treated of, and especially
with regard to gross growths when the trees are young. If these are not
checked, nothing can save the tree from becoming barren in a few years’ time.
The three-year-old trained tree when received from the nursery will have
probably six branches. The object of the cultivator the next year should be to

154 THE FRUIT GARDEN

secure two more shoots on the upper sides of each of the existing branches, so
as to build up the framework of the tree and cover the wall in as little time
as possible. “The result at the next winter’s pruning should be the addition of
twelve more branches to the tree. To preserve the symmetry of the tree
restrict the shoots to the upper sides of the branches. Cases may occur where
this is not practicable, then, rather than have the wall bare, I would train a
shoot from the under side. The following year the main branches must be
increased in the same way, and so on every year until the tree has filled its
allotted space.

Pruninc.—Fruit-spurs will form on the main branches of the tree, and all
the winter pruning necessary will be to shorten the shoots of the previous year’s
growth to within a few buds of their bases; fairly strong shoots should be
cut to within four buds and weak shoots to two buds of their bases. If the

BRANCH WITH ONE TO THREE YEARS’ Woop

(2) Spurs that have borne fruit in summer; (4) spurs of preceding summer's formation;
(c) point of shortening a short stubby shoot ; (d) side shoot at extremity of previous
year’s wood that may be left if desired to form a subsidiary branch at this point, or
cut out—this being better than shortening to the cross line, as that induces vigorous
shoots to push, and crowds with useless wood; (e) extension shoot left entire, or
shortened at a wood bud (cross line) to originate growths for forming branches to
cover the space. Shoot on side, one year old; (/) blossom buds; (g) wood buds ;
(2) basal buds; (z) point of shortening to originate growths.

fruit-spurs become long and unwieldy they must be shortened, and if the
branches are overcrowded with fruit-spurs it is essential occasionally to cut
away a few.

SUMMER Pruninc.—As a rule the plum does not require much disbudding.
At the same time, if the wood-buds are too numerous, disbudding must be
attended to, to prevent overcrowding. When the lateral shoots are about ten
inches long, they should be shortened to half their length, and any resulting
shoots stopped at the second leaf; no further attention will be necessary until
the winter pruning, when these shoots must be pruned as previously advised.
The same methods of pruning must be practised each year as the seasons come
round, although as the trees advance in years it may be found necessary to
train in some young shoots to fill vacant spaces ; this can easily be done by
reserving as many summer shoots as may be wanted, securing them to the wall
the following winter.

Prorecrinc TREEs IN FLower.—The plum tree blossoms early, and as the

THE PLUM 155

flowers are tender, more so perhaps than those of any other hardy fruit tree,
they are liable to damage. For this reason there is an old saying that when a
heavy crop of plums is secured, it generally follows that good crops of other
hardy fruits are general the same year. The walls and their copings give some
protection from frost, so much, that six or seven degrees will not hurt the
blossom, but if a harder frost than this is anticipated protection should be given
if possible ; a herring net laid double thickness over the trees is best for the
purpose.

THINNING THE Frurirs.—This is a practice not often resorted to in the
case of the plum, but when there happens to be a heavy set of fruits judicious
thinning is necessary, especially if fruits of the highest quality and size are
desired.

Tue Rive Frurr.—Do not be in a hurry to gather the fruit before it has
had time to ripen. The gage plums, Coe’s Golden Drop, and some other
sorts, should not be gathered until they are quite ripe ; they will then be found
to be perfect sweetmeats, and equal in richness of flavour to any fruit grown.
They should be handled with the greatest care. It will often be found that
the stalks of the fruit adhere tenaciously to the tree. No attempt should be
made to pull them off, but every fruit must be severed by a pair of scissors,
retaining the stalk full length. It goes without saying that the trees must be
carefully netted until the fruit is gathered as a protection from birds, and also
from wasps, which are the worst enemies of the plum. ‘The safest and best
remedy is in spring to destroy the queen wasps, and later to destroy the nests.
Also take the precaution of fixing some wide-necked bottles, containing beer
and sugar, to the branches of the trees,

Mutcuinc.—I must again emphasise the importance of applying a mulch
to plum trees, as recommended for other wall fruit trees, especially those
planted in warm positions. Not only does the mulch prevent too rapid an
evaporation of moisture from the soil, but it also affords rooting material for the
multitude of those tiny thread-like roots that form during the summer, and
which, after performing their functions in helping the trees to bear and mature
heavy crops of fruit, may be cleared away with the mulch in the autumn. To
some it may appear unusual and unwarrantable to recommend the destruction
of these small annual roots, but the practice is a sound one, and the end justifies
the means, for as good or better crops of these summer roots will result every
succeeding year if the conditions are made favourable by applying rich surface
dressings.

Warterinc.—In considering the question of watering as regards wall trees
generally, the fact must not be lost sight of that wall trees do not benefit by
rain to the same extent as trees in the open quarter. The fact also must not
be overlooked that the foundation of the wall itself is a means of facilitating
the rapid passage of moisture to the subsoil or drains, therefore, if the best
results are to be obtained, copious waterings must be given during the summer.

Brest Prums ror Watt Cutture.—The following are especially recom-
mended for culture on walls, and most of them are distinct and first quality
dessert plums. I have included a few distinguished by their large and noble

156 THE FRUIT GARDEN

appearance, which strictly cannot be termed dessert varieties. These succeed
as dwarfs, pyramids, and standards in the open ground, and so grown, are
excellent for culinary purposes ; but the improvement effected in size, quality,
and flavour by wall cultivation is so great that their inclusion among the best
dessert and exhibition plums is justified :-—

Old Green Gage, Brahys Green Gage, Brandy Gage, Bryanston Gage, Denniston’s
Superb Gage, Oullin’s Golden Gage, Comte d’Atthem’s Gage, Golden Transparent
Gage, Transparent Gage, Reine Claude de Bavay, Transparent Late Gage, Coes
Golden Drop, Jefferson, Kirke’s Blue, Reine Claude Violette, Washington. The follow-
ing? are, strictly speaking, culinary sorts, but when grown against a wall are good
enough for dessert: Archduke, Monarch, Prince Englebert, Prince of Wales, Pona’s
Seedling, White Magnum Bonum.

THE PLUM FOR ORCHARDS AND PLANTATIONS
By GEORGE BUNYARD

The plum is generally grown upon standard trees. From these very fine
fruit is produced, except in the northern counties. There they are best grown
upon walls, then the fruit is not only large, but under the protection of the
foliage takes on a beautiful bloom, and in that condition is considered perfect
for dessert. Pyramid, bush, and cordon trees must
be lifted and root-pruned every other year, or the
growth becomes so gross that the spurs are un-
fertile. They pay well for this treatment, but
care should be taken that only half the trees are
root-pruned at one time, so that in case of a dry
spring the crop is not entirely lost. But when the
trees have formed a mass of fibrous roots they do
not suffer, especially if the root-pruning is done at
the end of October before the leaves fall.

When standard trees bear a heavy crop, the
fruits when three parts grown should be thinned ;
those removed can then be used for tarts. But on
walls and garden trees the fruits should be thinned
when they are smaller in order to give the best
results.

The plum succeeds in nearly all soils, but a

ELONGATED SPUR granite soil requires the addition of lime. In

(4) Pinched growths considerably orchards standard trees should be planted some 15 to
extended; they must be short- 29 feet apart ; they soon come into bearing. They
do well in cultivated land along with gooseberries,

currants, or raspberries. When these bushes are worn out the land can be
laid to grass, or kept open by cultivation as desired. The plum is a surface-
rooting tree, and should never be planted deeply. It requires severe top-

THE PLUM 157

pruning for some six years until the fruit-bearing shoots are strong enough
to resist the wind. On young trees the crop of fruit should always be liberally
thinned. The half-grown fruit can be used for tarts, and is sometimes worth
marketing.

When planting for market, only a few varieties should be selected, the
following being the most useful :—

EARLy (end of July and early August).— Rivers’ Prolific, Rivers Czar, Early Orléans,
fleron, Oullin’s Golden Gage.

MID-SEASON.—Belle de Louvain, Jefferson's Gage, Victoria, Kent Diamond, Smith's
Purple Prolific, Kent Bush Plum.

LatEe.—Pona’s Seedling, Monarch, President.

Damsons.—frogmore Prolific, Farleigh Prolific, King of Damsons, Shropshire
Damson.

Or

RESULT OF SHORTENING AN
ELONGATED SPUR

RESULT OF SHORTENING A
VIGOROUS SIDE SHOOT TO
Two BupDs AT THE PRE-
VIOUS YEAR’S PRUNING

(0) Point of pinching growths Spurs formed i shoot on left pinched
in summer ; (f) point of at third leaf in summer, not count-
shortening at following ing basal leaves, and shortened in
winter's pruning. winter to two buds.

Plums are often grown as bushes and produce very fine fruit ; the trees can
be well pruned, thinned, and regulated without the use of a ladder. They
are planted in rows 12 feet apart and 18 feet between each row. For garden
use pyramids may be planted. These are very fertile when the roots are
pruned every two or three years. But plums resent hard top-pruning with-
out root attention, and then produce long whippy growths which cause the
trees to be unfruitful ; the more they are cut in the worse the trees become.
They are also useful as cordons trained upon walls, and in the north of
Britain are invaluable as pot trees for the orchard house. When trees are
grown in pots some of them can be placed out-of-doors, and thus extend the
season of ripe plums. ‘There are many varieties, of which we give a selection
sufficient for all purposes. Damsons, Bullaces, and Myrobelles require the same
treatment.

Plums vary much in size, but not so much in colour, as do apples and pears,
As to their size, much depends on the number of fruits allowed to ripen. The
smaller fruits are best for jam, and the larger for tarts and bottling.

158 THE FRUIT GARDEN

Tue Best PLums

BELGIAN PURPLE.—Deep crimson and purple, above medium size ; flesh pale golden,
firm ; siz thick; flavour rich, almost fit for dessert; a very fine ‘cooking plum which
carries well to market, and is a great bearer ; fruzt not liable to crack. The tree is com-
pact and sturdy and useful for all garden forms.

BELLE DE LOUVAIN.—Deep crimson, shaded blackish crimson ; suture very shallow;
stone very thin and flattened, long ; flesh dull orange and red ; flavour acid, but rich ;
an excellent bottling or cooking sort. F.C.C, 1855.

BRYANSTONE GAGE.—Pale dull green, with yellow and chocolate spots; rather
larger than the greengage, and later ; //esh greenish yellow ; very sweet, firm, and rich.
Tree vigorous, and a good bearer.

Cor’s GOLDEN Drop (Golden Drop).—Bright orange to lemon, with reddish dots on
the sunny side ; suture very marked; flesh yellow, firm, juicy, sugary, and crisp. One of
the richest flavoured plums, that will hang very late on wall trees. It is a valuable plum
for all purposes, and where it succeeds as an orchard standard is very lucrative for
market sale ; of compact growth.

CoMTE D’ATTHEM’S GAGE (Comte d’Atthem).—Suéure wide and broad; ski very
pale yellow, almost entirely covered with dull purplish red and golden dots ; flesh very
firm, pale golden colour. F.C.C.

DENNISTON’S SUPERB.—Apple-green marbled with dull yellow, changing to orange
in fruits exposed to the sun; saz¢/ure often deep and narrow ; sk covered with whitish
bloom ; /lesk greenish yellow ; 3 flavour very sweet and rich ; when grown on a wall it is
a sweetmeat ; stone oval, even, and flattened. A valuable sort for all garden purposes.

DIAMOND (Black Mogul).—Deep black, shading to crimson ; féesh bright golden, very
firm, glutinous, and of brisk acid flavour, delicious for cooking ; stoze large and indented ;
fruit very large and fine when from a wall, and covered with a dense bloom ; a cooking
plum of the finest quality ; tree strong and very twiggy, needing to be well thinned, bears
every other year.

EARLY ORLEANS (Wilmot’s Early).—Deep red, with golden dots and speckles of
russet ; flesh firm ; stome round ; flesh greenish golden, of good flavour, but a cooking
plum, valuable for its earliness. On light warm soils lucrative for market, but tender on
heavy land.

EARLY TRANSPARENT GAGE (Early Apricot).—Canary, shading to primrose yellow,
with brown spots ; /Zavour very rich and sweet ; flesh primrose colour, firm and juicy ;
a very free bearer. F.C.C. 1893.

GRAND DUKE.—Deep crimson purple, and when grown on a wall covered with
bloom ; flesh orange yellow, slightly acid. A valuable garden plum, but it blossoms very
early, and is therefore liable to damage by frost; as an orchard tree Monarch and
President are better. F.C.C. 1880.

GREEN GAGE.—When from wall trees or orchard house, skzz brownish green and
orange thickly covered with bloom. From open trees the fruit is often marked on the
sunny side with russet patches, rosy red dots and splashes, and has no bloom. This
rosy red spotting sometimes comes on wall fruits when they are exposed. Flesh firm,
pale brownish green ; favour rich, sweet and luscious ; s¢ove nearly round, short.

GOLDEN TRANSPARENT.—Bright amber, with large red spots at the stalk end.
Suture very faint ; fesh golden amber, melting ; favour rich and sweet ; stone small,
flat ; cling stone. F.C.C. 1893.

KiRrKe’s.—Deep crimson violet marked with silver russet and gold. Suture shallow
and narrow ; flesh golden, with a tinge of green ; cling stone ; favour very rich. The
finest dessert purple plum for garden culture.

LATE ORANGE.—Deep golden yellow, very handsome. A_new sort of great ex-
cellence keeping well into October. Tree vigorous, forming a fine pyramid. Flavour
good for such a late fruit. F.C.C. 1892.

JEFFERSON (American Gage).—In form like Coe’s Golden Drop. Bright yellow
with green shading, and often very nearly covered with chocolate spots. /esh primrose

THE PLUM 159

colour, very rich and sweet, juicy. One of the very best for all purposes. Tree
compact, and a good regular bearer. Succeeds in all forms.

LATE TRANSPARENT GAGE.—Pale yellow splashed with dull red, with large red
spots near the stalk end. Szdure very faint ; fesh tender, melting, dull greenish yellow ;
Jlavour sweet and pleasant ; stone small, thick and round ; cling stone; carries a rich
bloom. This plum is valuable at the end of the season. F.C.C. 1892.

_ MONARCH.—Roundish oval of medium size. Deep purple, almost black. /Vesh pale
primrose ; favour rich, and rather sweet. A late cooking variety of great excellence.
Tree very strong, upright growth. It does not require much pruning when young.
F.C.C. 1894.

OULLIN’S GOLDEN GAGE.—Rich primrose and yellow, egg-shaped, very handsome.
A valuable early variety for dessert or cooking ; makes a vigorous large spreading tree,
and bears freely when old. Very fine for walls, or as garden trees.

POND’S SEEDLING (Fonthill, Red Egg).—Bright pink or dull red, with silvery and
dark red spots and patches with tinges of brown. A very fine late sort which attains
great size. flesh gamboge yellow, very firm; flavour sweet, rich ; stone oval, and
small for the size of the fruit ; cling stone. Requires pruning freely in a young state.
A great bearer, and one of the most valuable for market sale at the close of the season.
Tree very free, and of spreading growth.

PRESIDENT.— Violet black. Sutuze faintly marked; flesh bright pale yellow, firm ;
Jjlavour pleasantly acid ; free stone; stone same shape as fruit. A grand late kitchen
sort, which cannot fail to become popular. F.C.C. 1900.

PRIMATE.—S#iz entirely rich crimson-purple with silvery dots; flesh firm and
golden ; flavour briskly acid, very rich; a grand kitchen sort ; stone large, broad, very
rough ; growth vigorous. A.M. 1898.

REINE CLAUDE DE BAvAy.—Dull pea-green, with greyish tinge. Flesh very firm ;
cling stone ; of rich sugary flavour, as a late variety very useful ; grow¢h moderate, most
suitable for garden tree.

RIVERS’ EARLY PROLIFIC (Prolific, Early Rivers’)—Crimson to purple when fully
ripe. Flesh pale golden ; free stone ; when gathered from a wall fit for dessert. This is
a most valuable early variety for market or home use, bearing very freely. Growth
compact and drooping, rather twiggy, never makes a large tree.

SULTAN.—Almost round, with a wide suture on one side. Colour deep mulberry red,
spotted with silvery russet, greenish yellow where shaded ; flesh firm, greenish yellow ;
favour rich ; stone roundish oval, thick, with a deep furrow on side. F.C.C, 1873.

THE Czar.—Deep purplish black, with white bloom when from a wall. Flesh
pleasant, fit for dessert. A most valuable early sort for market or home use. Tree
upright, and of very vigorous growth.

TRANSPARENT GAGE (Original).—Yellowish green, with orange patches and russet,
spotted with deep gold and red ; flesh crisp, juicy, and extremely rich. This variety is
not figured; the stalk is deeply inserted, and the fruit resembles Early Transparent
Gage in shape. Grow? erratic; it is difficult to form a shapely tree, but its freedom in
cropping and the exquisite flavour of the fruits render it desirable. : :

VICTORIA (Alderton, Dauphin, Royal Dauphin).—Pale pink, shaded with rosy pink,
spotted with gold and silver; free stone ; flesh orange yellow ; when gathered from a
wall fit for dessert. This valuable plum is one of the finest grown ; the tree is a very
free and regular bearer, in fact the fruits require thinning or the boughs are likely to
break with the weight of fruit. Succeeds in any form, and is a great favourite for
bottling, jam, or tarts, and lucrative for market.

WHITE MaGNnuM Bonum (Magnum Bonum, White Egg).—Pale lemon-yellow,
not shaded. Flesh whitish ; free stone. When from a wall the fruits are most beautiful,
covered with white bloom, keep late, and are often acceptable for dessert ; as a cooking
plum it is first-rate. Tree very vigorous, and a wonderful bearer. Growth upright.

WYEDALE.—Fruzt deep crimson purple; cooks splendidly ; /esh very gelatinous.
Its chief value consists in its keeping well on the tree often until November. Tree
moderate in growth, and when developed a regular bearer.

160 THE FRUIT GARDEN

DAMSONS AND BULLACES

BLACK BULLACE.—Tree compact and twiggy ; /ruz¢ excellent when cooked. It may
hang on the tree until November.

SHEPHERD’S BULLACE.—Tree of free growth; /ruzt green and yellow, mottled with
snowy patches. The latest and best variety. October.

DAMSON BRADLEY’S KING.—Tree spreading free growth, a profuse bearer; /rudt
first-class in quality, and very sweet and rich. One of the best.

DAMSON CHESHIRE OR SHROPSHIRE (Michaelmas Damson, Prune Damson, Pruant
Plum).—This is a large late variety ; one of the last to be gathered. Cooks well when
fully ripe. The tree has large plum-like foliage, and is wide and spreading.

DAMSON FROGMORE PROLIFIC.—Tree of very free growth, forming a large and
regular head ; /rwz¢ of large size, reddish black, very rich and sweet. Quite worthy of
the dessert, and splendid when cooked.

DAMSON FARLEIGH PROLIFIC (Cluster Damson).—Tree compact, thorny, and an
enormous bearer. The clusters of fruit are so crowded that they resemble bunches of
black grapes. Svome rather large for the size of the fruit. Hardy.

PRUNE OF HEREFORD.—Grvowth upright ; fruzt oval, pointed at both ends. Bears
well in places, but does not find favour in the south.

WHITE DaMSON.—Tree upright and free-growing ; /ruz¢ oval; orange-yellow shaded
green or white. Rather larger than a black damson, and being in use in October is
valuable for cooking purposes.

THE MYROBELLE (CHERRY PLUM).

In the desire for novelty which now obtains in all gardens this neglected fruit
is often asked for. It is popularly called the cherry plum from its similarity in
form to the cherry. It forms a close twiggy standard tree, and bears nearly
every year; but it is necessary that the wild stock (Myrobalan) be grafted
with scions of a good variety, otherwise failure may ensue. It flourishes by
the sea in the southern counties, but as it blossoms with the sloe or blackthorn,
is not suitable for situations exposed to early frosts. It may, however, be
grown in colder districts on walls as a trained tree, and is acceptable because
the fruits ripen early in August; although they do not attain to dessert ex-
cellence they are admirable for tarts and stewing. California and Japan have
given us several varieties which we enumerate with remarks.

RED FRUITED.—Dull red pointed fruits.

YELLOW FRUITED.—Similar to the above except in colour, which is a bright
canary yellow.

BURBANK.—A Californian variety ; /rwzt large and pointed, rich red with. russet,
and golden patches and dots. This new variety is a remarkable bearer ; as a pot plant
for the orchard house it is beautiful in flower, and the fruit hangs in clusters of three
to five, so that they must be well thinned. Very valuable for early tarts. The flavour
reminds one of the apricot.

Masu.—Fruit nearly globular, bright red with golden dots; flavour sweet and
excellent. A Japanese variety.

BoTan.—A very dark red Japanese variety, which bears freely.

PISSARDIL.—This is grown in gardens for its rich claret coloured foliage and early
white flowers. We expect, however, as the trees age they will bear fruits ; these are
the same colour as the foliage.

BULLACE “THE LANGLEY.”

‘SHAUL WOATd TIF AL GANIPULNVA

THE PLUM 161

Mr. Luther Burbank, of California, has introduced several hybrids, but at
the time of writing we hesitate to recommend them, as the severe frost of
February 1902 (32 degs.) has killed or crippled the young stock, and they may.
not prove hardy in Britain.

Pium, Tue Date (see p. 208).
PoMEGRANATE, THE (see p. 212).

THE QUINCE

This late autumn fruit is much appreciated for cooking and for preserving.
The quince is a moisture-loving tree, and is at home by the side of ponds, in
damp corners in gardens, &c. ; its beauty at flowering time is also remarkable.
The culture of the quince is simple : merely thin out the shoots freely, prune
back the long side growths to six buds, so as to make them bear fruits the
whole length of the main branches. When the fruits are formed, liquid
manure should be given to the trees; the fruits will be greatly improved as a
result. “There are but three quinces usually grown :—

THE APPLE-SHAPED.—The tree bears well, is more twiggy than the others, and the
fruit is rounder and ripens early.

THE PEAR-SHAPED.—This variety is the best for general culture. The tree bears
well, and the fruit is of fine flavour.

THE PORTUGAL.—Frwui¢t uneven and rugged, nearly covered with down, excellent,
but does not ripen in cool seasons. The tree bears freely if well cultivated.

Several varieties of quinces are grown in America and on the Continent,
but they do not differ materially from the above.

CHAPTER XV

THE RASPBERRY
By GEORGE BUNYARD

Ir is important, in the first place, that the land for raspberry culture be deeply
dug and well manured before the canes are planted, as owing to the surface-

SHORTENING RASPBERRY CANES AT
PLANTING OR IN SPRING WHEN BUDS
COMMENCE SWELLING

RESULTS OF SHORTENING CANES

s. Result of cutting down a short (or weak, or badly
rooted) cane (0) ; (~) point of shortening for bearing.
T. Growths from a cane shortened to 6 to 12 inches
from ground (P); (v) point of cutting away old cane

o. A short, well-rooted cane; (g) point of
shortening to ground. p. Small

cane with fairly good fibrous roots;
(ry) point of pruning 6 to 12 inches
from ground. Q. Fruiting cane with
abundance of roots; (s) point of
shortening to 18 inches, or 2 feet from
soil, R. Fruiting cane with good
roots; (¢) point of cutting off top of
cane.

at, ornear, ground level ; (w) point of shortening cane
for bearing. u. Growths from a bearing cane short-
ened at 18 inches to 2 feet (Q); the bottom cross
line shows point of cutting away after fruit is
gathered; (y) cane of previous year; (2) point of
shortening cane of last summer for bearing. v. Re-
sult of leaving a long cane (R) in the first season ;
(a) fruited cane that must be cut to the ground;
on the right is shown a weakly cane that must be
shortened at least one-third of its length; (c) weak
young cane that must be shortened to the ground, or
near, indicated by cross line. Fruiting heavily the
first year means very indifferent canes for fruiting
the second season, thus lcsing a year or more,

rooting nature of the raspberry, it is unwise afterwards to dig the soil deeply.
Any manure required can be added as a summer mulching, and be dug in
during the winter, before Christmas. The raspberry prefers a somewhat damp

162

THE RASPBERRY 163

position, and well repays a good watering over the mulching of manure in the
fruiting season, This will cause the berries to develop to full size, and also
prolong the duration of the crop.

Plants should be grown in rows 6 feet apart, the canes being planted 2 feet
apart in the row. The roots of the raspberry do not penetrate far, therefore
the canes should not be deeply planted. After planting shorten the canes to
14 feet in length.

When established, several long shoots are produced by each plant. Three
or four of the best of these should be selected, and the others pulled up or
cut off, while the fruiting canes should be removed as soon as the fruit is
gathered. ‘The remaining canes will then ripen fully, and as winter approaches
they should be tied together and supported, and pruned back to 4 feet.
Some train the plants flatly on wires,
and arch them over one another. This
has a pretty effect, and the crop is readily
gathered. In the winter the beds should be
well manured, and the manure forked just
beneath the surface of the ground. Deep
digging disturbs the roots, and should be
avoided. In dry soils a mulching of long
stable manure in April is helpful to the
crop.

The culture of the autumn-fruiting rasp-
berries differs from that of the summer-
fruiting varieties. "The canes are cut to the :
ground in March, and as new growths appear —s oy. Sraxinc METHOD OF PRUNING
the strongest are selected and allowed to

grow freely, and the weaker ones are re- “Mound” ot three years, planted in a

triangle with plants three years old;
moved. Each cane must have plenty of Wi Solute ol chonleniog canes 8@
room, otherwise the fruits may take mildew render them self-supporting. Shear
i i When canes are short jointed an
in the autumn, They are best in a group wal malic, pals the pe DEEG. Be

{not in rows), as canes are produced very cut off.

freely, and the plants cannot easily be kept ;

to a straight line. The fruits are produced underneath the foliage at the top
of the summer shoots, therefore the tops of the latter must not be cut off.
Autumn raspberries are very useful either for dessert or cooking. It is sufficient
to grow three varieties only.

RASPBERRIES IN AUTUMN
By J. C. TALLACK

Autumn raspberries when well grown form an important crop in a private
garden, and are much appreciated for cooking, besides which they may, if the
weather is really fine and warm when they are ripening, provide a welcome
change in the dessert, and carry on the season of small fruits to the end of

164
October.

ESPALIER PRUNING

x. Established plants, showing—{e) fruited
canes cut out in pruning ; (7) succes-
sional bearing canes pruned back to
well ripened wood, as the sappy and
immature extremities cannot be»relied
upon to bear fine fruit.

fruiters to the ground in February or March, and to

THE FRUIT GARDEN

It is not uncommon to find a few rows of these double bearers

(an unfortunate name, by-the-bye) grow-
ing with the summer sorts, and from them
some late dishes are obtained; but the
culture which requires two crops from
the plants defeats the object for which
they are grown, as the first crop, borne
on last year’s canes, strains their resources
and prevents the second crop, borne on canes
of the current year’s growth, from being
anything but an average one. Why it is
left for raspberries to produce two crops
while we are content with one of any other
fruit is a mystery. [he summer crop on
the autumn bearers (such as Belle de Fon-
tenay, the best and finest, and the red and
yellow Four Seasons, which are both very
prolific) is not necessary, as the regular
summer bearers should then be providing
quite sufficient.

My practice is to cut down the autumn
thin out the new suckers

which appear soon after sufficiently to allow them
plenty of room. Any extra strong sucker which
may appear well ahead of the rest should be cut
away, as this in a cold season will continue growing
without fruiting, and weaken the medium-sized
growths. From about forty yards’ run of canes I
have picked, about the middle of October, 18 Ibs. of
as fine fruit as one could wish to see.

Autumn raspberries, like the summer varieties,
enjoy liberal treatment, and the ground when
being prepared should at least be deeply dug, and
as the beds ought to last for many years some
good manure from the stockyard, together with
any bones, burnt rubbish, and anything that will
tend permanently to enrich the soil should be dug
in. October and November are the best months
for planting, and the canes should be from suckers
that have appeared at some distance from the old
stools, as these are most likely to grow away
freely. Each year a good mulching of manure
is given in March or April, and in dry seasons
on hot soils it may be necessary to give soakings
of water, though in this respect the autumn bearers

TRAINING TO UPRIGHT STAKE,

AND REMOVING SURPLUS
SUCKERS

Plant shown second season after

planting ; (g)stake (ash, Spanish
chestnut, or larch is best) driven
firmly into ground 18 inches or
more, and about 4 feet above the
soil; (4) last season’s cane bear-
ing fruit ; (2) strong successional
canes for fruiting the following
season ; (&) surplus suckers
which should be pulled up when
quite small.

are more independent than others, as they have no old growth to support.

THE RASPBERRY 165

THE BEST RASPBERRIES
By GEORGE BUNYARD

Rep VARIETIES

BAUMFORTH’S SEEDLING.—Foliage large and very uneven; /rizit crimson, of rich
flavour, large and round.

CARTER’S PROLIFIC.—Cames arching ; foléage broad. The fruit slips readily from the
stalk, and is sweet and very rich. A dwarf growing variety, and a good bearer.

_ Hornet.—A large fruited variety, very
similar to Norwich Wonder ; growth vigor-
ous; fruc¢ dark red.

NORWICH WONDER.—Foliage wrinkled
and marbled ; canes straight and firm; fruc¢t
large, more bluntly pointed than in Super-
lative. A rich, deep red colour. A fine
main crop variety. A favourite with market
growers.

RED ANTWERP.—Canes rose colour,
with dark spines; /ruzf rather brisk in
flavour, slipping easily from the stalk.

SEMPER FIDELIS. -— Foliage small ;
canes pale green, with black spines; /eaves
pointed and pale green; /ruzt thimble-
shaped, small, but most freely produced ;
being late it is doubly valuable. It is rich ARCHING THE FRUITING CANES
in colour, and makes the best preserve.

Growth free. The canes must be well z, The system of arching; (/) stakes 24 to 3 feet
thinned to perfect the crop of fruit. above ground, and midway between plants in

SUPERLATIVE.—Foliage deep green, eg eel bearing canes; (z) vigorous succes-
very large and vigorous; canes pale green, arr oe
with black spines. This is by far the best red raspberry, it surpasses all others in size,
fruitfulness, and vigour ; it also continues to bear for a long time. The /rzz¢ is very
large, three often weigh an ounce. It has a brisk rich flavour, and is valuable alike
for dessert or preserving. It is very firm, and can be sent to market in punnets.
One of the most lucrative. F.C.C. 1888. :

WHITE AND YELLOW

GROSSE BLANCHE (Large White).—A very free grower ; fruit amber colour. The
plant bears for a long time.

THE GUINEA.—A robust yellow variety of Superlative. The foliage resembles this
in form, but is greenish yellow. The /ruzt is very large and not so sweet as Yellow
Antwerp, yet the vigorous growth and free bearing will commend this raspberry to all

TOWeTS.
? WHITE ANTWERP (Yellow Antwerp).—A very old and esteemed variety, of a bright
yellow colour. Rich and sweet in flavour. The plant grows freely.

WHITE Macnum Bonum.—Foliage flat and pointed; canes pale green, thickly
covered with small prickles; /ruct of a primrose colour, round, pleasantly acid.
Sweet and rich when thoroughly ripe. An early variety of dwarf habit that grows
freely.

CROMWELL'S Victoria (Imperial Yellow).—Only valuable as an early sort, and
soon over.

166 THE FRUIT GARDEN

Tue Besr AuTuMN-FRuITING RASPBERRIES

PERPETUAL DE BILLaRD (Belle de Fontenay).—Fo/dage purplish red, flat, bold, and
pointed. Belle de Fontenay is given as synonymous, as there is little or no difference
between the two. F.C.C. 1865.

RED FOUR SEASONS.—ZLeaves very broad and large; not so good a raspberry as
Belle de Fontenay ; canes of moderate vigour. '

YELLOW FOUR SEasons.—The summer crop is early, and the fruits are of fine
flavour, It bears profusely again from early August until the frost comes ; /ruzt round,
of a pale lemon colour; the early berries are very sweet, the later ones more acid ;
growth vigorous.

MIDDLESEX GARDEN.

WEEADER” IN A

STRAWBERRY

CHAPTER XVI

THE STRAWBERRY

Strawserrigs Ourt-or-Doors

By GEORGE BUNYARD

SIMPLE as are the necessary operations for their successful culture strawberries
are often not well grown. ‘The causes of failure usually are indifferent pre-
paration of the soil, keeping the plants too long, growing second-rate varieties,
and propagating from worn-out, unfertile plants. It is important in preparing
the beds to move the soil 2 feet deep, and to work in some partly rotted manure.
If this is not obtainable, then some artificial manure can be used; in either
case the fertilisers should be well incorporated with the soil as the work
proceeds,

The strawberry naturally prefers a deep, rich, loamy soil, and does not thrive
on light, sandy, chalky, or gravel soils; by proper treatment, however, it can
be well grown in any soil of sufficient depth and staple. Presuming that the soil
to be dealt with is sandy, then cow-manure should be added, and with this
may be given a sprinkling of salt and some nitrate of soda. On very poor sandy
land it is best to make trenches, as for celery, 2 feet deep, then mix the above
manures with the removed soil, adding some clay, and return the lot to the
trench; make it firm by treading. Gravelly soils can be treated in the same
way. For loamy soils, if light, use cow manure, and if heavy, horse manure,
bone-dust, fish, or guano. For heavy clay soils use old hot-bed manure or
manure from stables where horses are bedded on moss litter. “The land being
thus prepared and made firm by treading or rolling, mark out the rows 3 feet
apart, and plant as early in August as possible, placing them 2 feet apart.

Plants in small pots are the best for planting. Should the weather prove
dry and hot it will be advisable to place a flower-pot over each newly set plant,
removing it in the evening and slightly sprinkling the leaves. It is absolutely
necessary that the plants should be firmly placed, the roots well spread out, and
the soil made firm. If the weather is dry, water freely after planting, and
then mulch with a layer of long stable manure 3 inches thick. This will keep
the surface moist, encourage an early growth, and prevent the raising of the
plants by frost.

Strawberry plants can be planted with success up to March, but it is well
not to plant during frosty weather and when the land is saturated With moisture.
The work is best done as early as good plants can be had ; and where these are

provided in the planter’s garden, showery weather should be taken advantage
167

168 THE FRUIT GARDEN

of. Where the work cannot be done before November, strawberries may be
planted as late as April ; for even if they produce but little fruit, they form fine
strong plants for the following year, and then produce double the crop obtained
from plants one year old. Remove any side runners that may form. At the
end of March remove the old litter in order to enable the planter to see if slugs,
snails, or other pests are about, but if the plants are clear of these the litter may
be replaced. If, however, they abound, the surface of the bed should be dressed
with soot or lime to check them, and the soil hoed over to kill any weeds. A

CORRECT METHODS OF PLANTING ROOTED RUNNERS

(x) Plantlet or runner from a 3-inch pot; (y) first rooted in turf; (z) cut round with
a trowel and lifted from the open ground with a ball of soil; (a) carefully lifted
(though without soil).

fresh mulching of manure can then be placed on the beds; this will stimulate
fresh growth and become perfectly clean before the fruit ripens. In the event
of the old mulching being left on, some fresh clean straw should be laid round
the plants to keep the fruits clean. In some gardens the strawberry plant
makes a quantity of foliage, but bears little fruit. Under these circumstances
the land is perhaps too full of humus, and an application of artificial manure will
be an advantage, in conjunction with some well-slacked lime.

The strawberry is very fickle as to its wants, and a variety which succeeds
in one place may fail in another, even under similar treatment. The favourite
British Queen is a case in point; it prefers a chalky or heavy soil containing
iron, while Vicomtesse H. de Thury prefers a light porous soil. There
are others although failing totally in one county, yet are first-class in a
neighbouring one. Where only large handsome fruits are desired the flowers
may be thinned, removing the small and partially hidden ones. As soon as the
fruits are gathered the mulching should be raked off, the side runners and old
decaying foliage removed, the beds hoed over and kept free of weeds. No
plantation of strawberries should be allowed to remain more than three years.
One new bed made and one destroyed each year will insure a good supply of
fruits. Where facilities exist some even prefer to have no beds more than one
year old, and this may be advisable where a soil is quickly exhausted. But
after many years of observation we recommend strawberry plantations to be
left for two years, and for three years when small fruits for preserving purposes
are required. In order to get a few very early strawberries, plant closely
under a warm wall or upon an early border; a few plants should be put out
3 feet apart each way and have liberal treatment.

THE STRAWBERRY 169

Procurinc Runners.—When the plants come into blossom all the flower-
trusses should be removed ; this will force the plants to make early runners,
which should be stopped after the first or second joint, and the plants either be
layered into small pots or into turves to root; when ready to lift they should
be transferred to well-prepared ground and be treated as previously described.
They should have every encouragement, even the protection of tiffany if frosts
are likely to affect the early blossoms in May. All the flower-trusses should be
removed excepting the strongest one, and this should be allowed to carry six
fruits only. When all the plants required are taken from the bed, remove the
runners and keep the ground clean. ‘The two-year-old plants will then produce
a grand crop of fruits. Where space is limited panel beds may be made, and
such beds being protected by foliage often return a good crop of second-sized
fruits. When the beds are made 3 feet across the fruits can be secured without
treading upon them. For producing fruits for preserving, plants from three to four
years old may prove useful. ‘The fruit
for this purpose is best when firm.
Large, soft, watery berries become too
juicy when boiled.

Gardens are frequently surrounded
by woods and parklands where birds
abound, and it becomes necessary to ~*~ ih
net the beds before the fruit ripens to
keep out the blackbirds and thrushes,
which are often hard set for food.
Care must be taken to peg the nets
close to the ground, or the birds wil] | INCORREcT — OF PLANTING ROOTED

UNNERS
be sure to find an entrance. Some
amateurs may think the preparation of (8) ae on bs sous acobis 1 in ‘ tally
the ground for strawberries somewhat ee er placed af ie depth
costly, but it must be borne in mind but with the roots massed together.
that for some years peas and other
vegetable crops can follow the strawberries without extra manure, and after a
rest or change of crop the land can again be used for strawberries.

Late STRAWBERRIES are often as great a luxury as early ones, and where
they are required suitable varieties should be selected from the list of late straw-
berriés, and planted under the partial shade of a north wall or hedge; not
being as a rule such strong growers as the earlier and mid-season sorts they may
be planted 1 foot apart. We have tested some two hundred varieties, and those
described are the best for all-round purposes. “There are perhaps a hundred
good and fair sorts, but for all practical purposes those named cannot be beaten,
and many uncertain ones have been purposely left out. Some soft fruits, as
Victoria, Louis Gauthier, and Goliath, which are of splendid quality, should,
if possible, be gathered into the dish, as they are easily bruised or discoloured.
Those to be sent long distances must be of a firmer texture and specially
selected.

PERPETUAL FRuITING STRAWBERRIES (of recent introduction).—With these

170 THE FRUIT GARDEN

there are great possibilities of development. ‘The best way to secure fine
autumnal strawberries is to go over the beds frequently, removing every decaying
leaf and all the runners. ‘The vigour of the plants is thus centred in producing
a crop of fruits. Another method is to remove all the summer flower stalks
and let the runners cover the soil, when a good crop of small berries will result.
However, some special culture is necessary, because the weather in September
and October is often damp and showery, and the fruits will rot unless some
protection is afforded. Plenty of short litter will prevent fruits being spoiled
by the soil splashing up during heavy rains.

STRAWBERRIES IN BaARRELS.—The method of cultivating strawberries in
barrels has advantages, and will prove interesting to that large class of amateurs
who do not force strawberries or grow them in cold frames to procure a picking
before they naturally ripen in the open beds. ‘The plants we have seen were
quite luxuriant, and the fruits ripened some ten or fourteen days in advance of
those in the same gardens in the ordinary beds. This method of culture is
to be recommended for insuring a very early dish, especially if the barrels are
placed in a warm corner of the garden.

The holes in the casks ought not to be over 5 inches in diameter, and good
soil should be used at the time of planting. In the centre of the tub or cask
three 4-inch boards are fastened together, and have holes bored in them to
prevent sourness of the soil, the apertures being closed with some hay or other
material. Water given to the plants must be evenly distributed over the surface
soil ; superfluous water can escape at the bases of the casks where there should
be six 1-inch holes. A cask will take about eighteen plants on the sides and six
on the top, so that twenty-four plants can be grown in a space of 2 feet in
diameter.

It is claimed for this style of culture that the fruit is very easily protected
from birds, and that from its position it is more easily ripened and keeps per-
fectly clean. The same plants will probably last two years in a tub, but if
fine large fruit is wanted it is best to plant annually, using good plants from
3-inch pots. In other respects they can be treated as pot plants for forcing.
As regards the best sorts for this culture, we recommend the stronger growers,
as Royal Sovereign, Sir Joseph Paxton, President, Vicomtesse H. de Thury,
Auguste Nicaise, Louis Gauthier, &c. But if smaller growers such as
Countess, British Queen, Dr. Hogg, &c., are planted, the holes need not be
more than 3 inches across, while a trial can be made of late varieties, such as
Waterloo, Elton Pine, Eleanor, Queen of Denmark, Frogmore Late Pine, &c.,
placing the tubs under the shade of a north wall.

Some difficulty has been experienced with the descriptions of the fruits.
Typical ones have been chosen for illustration. But the first fruits are not only
usually larger than those which follow, but they are often of a different shape.
It is, however, hoped that the remarks as to foliage, habit, and any peculiarities
in the variety may be of assistance. It must be remembered that fruit exhibited
for prizes at shows is the very best the plants produce. Many consider, however,
that the smaller strawberries possess the better flavour.

CULTURE IN BARREL.

STRAIVBERR)

THE STRAWBERRY 171

STRAWBERRY CULTURE UNDER GLASS
By H. H. THOMAS

Although strawberries are not produced by artificial means to the same
extent as they are grown out-of-doors in the Kentish fields, they are nevertheless
grown in such numbers in glass-houses as to make their culture an important
industry. Curiously enough, as the bulk of open-air strawberries are obtained
from Kent, so also are those grown under glass, the neighbourhoods of Swanley,
Bexley Heath, and other Kentish districts being chiefly responsible for the early
market supplies. During spring the prices asked for good strawberries are very
high, and taking into consideration the expense and labour involved in pro-
ducing them at such an early season, this is not to be wondered at.

It will be well first to consider the most suitable structure in which to
cultivate forced strawberry plants, and in doing so we shall find they will
succeed in a variety of houses, providing these possess an efficient heating
apparatus and are able to admit plenty of light. Those who grow supplies for
market endeavour, of course, to conduct their work as economically as possible,
and therefore prefer span-roofed houses because they are less expensive to build,
and will hold more plants than lean-to structures. So that the plants may have
all sunlight possible so early in the year, the span-roofed houses should run from
north to south. One side will then receive the morning sun, the other side the
afternoon sun, and the midday sun will benefit both sides of the house equally.
The houses should be low, otherwise it will be necessary to erect wooden
stages so as to bring the plants near the glass, and this would incur considerable
extra expense and labour. The nearer the plants are to the glass within reason
(they should not be closer than, say, 18 inches), the better will they flower and
fruit. The height from the central pathway to the apex of the roof should be
just sufficient to allow one to walk along comfortably. At the base of either
slope the roof rests upon short brick walls about 2 feet high. ‘The houses
built by those who grow strawberries for market vary in length from 100 to
200 feet. They are 10 feet wide inside and 6 feet high to the apex of the
roof. Along the centre of the house runs a pathway about 20 inches or 2 feet
wide, and on either side of this are placed six rows of plants in 6-inch pots, a
number that conveniently fills the two beds. The brick walls of the house
are 18 inches above the level of the ground outside, and the pathway has there-
fore to be sunk in order to allow the workmen to pass along conveniently.
Several houses are often built, as it were, in one. Supposing three houses to
be built together, there would be three distinct span roofs, but only two solid
walls, and these the two outside ones. ‘The purpose of the inner walls is
served by brick pillars built at intervals along where the wall would ordinarily
be. While giving all necessary support, this system admits of a free circulation
of air throughout the three houses, and the plants are almost as well off in
this respect (if the houses are well ventilated) as if growing out-of-doors.

We see, then, that if houses are specially built for the cultivation of forced
strawberries, low-spanned roofed ones are at once the most suitable and

172 THE FRUIT GARDEN

economical, The fruits may, however, be produced in various other structures,
and equally well also. Better fruits may perhaps be had from a lean-to house
facing due south than from a span-roofed one, but for the reasons above given
the latter would be preferred by a market grower. Heated pits and frames are
particularly well adapted to the forcing of the strawberry, because one is able
without difficulty to keep the plants close to the glass, “They have one draw-
back in that it is necessary to remove the lights in order to give water to the
plants. In cold and unfavourable weather this is a disadvantage. “Thousands
of strawberry plants are grown on shelves in vineries, peach-houses, melon
houses, &c., and if they are well looked after in these positions very good results
are obtained. Gardeners who endeavour to utilise to the utmost the valuable
space in their glass-houses will not fail to have shelves placed along the front of
the vineries, peach-houses, and melon-houses, and high up along the back of
them also. Where special provision is made for forcing strawberries, they had
better not be introduced to vineries and peach houses, &c., as they are frequently
the cause of red spider on the trees. These shelves prove invaluable during
winter and early spring in providing accommodation for strawberries in pots.
The plants must be kept free from red spider, or this will spread to the per-
manent trees in the houses. Cold frames also are suitable positions for pot
strawberries for a few weeks previous to the latter being placed in heat, but
these matters will be more fully entered into in the remarks upon culture.

PropacaTion.—The strawberry is most readily and conveniently propagated
by means of runners, the name given to those numerous, stalk-like growths
bearing tiny plants at intervals, which are produced by the parent plant.
Propagation is effected by so treating these small plants as to cause them to
form roots. “The methods of doing this are various, but the one described at
length below is that we have found to be the best in every way. It is of great
importance that layering (the technical term given to the work of placing the
runners in soil) should be done early, so that strong and well-rooted plants may
be formed by the autumn. This is essential to the successful forcing of the
strawberry. Late-rooted runners cannot possibly produce such good plants, for
when they should be making rapid progress they are simply commencing to
form roots, with the result that by the time they are in a position to grow,
practically all the conditions that conduce to healthy, rapid, and vigorous growth
are over. And it is hopeless to expect such plants to withstand the unfavourable
conditions that forced strawberries are subjected to, The earlier satisfactory
runners are obtained and rooted the earlier will one be able to establish them
in the pots in which they are to bear fruit, and the greater therefore will be
the chances of ultimate success. We say satisfactory runners advisedly, for the
very earliest are not always the best.

PREPARATION FOR LayErinc.—The subject of layering the runners is such
an important item of strawberry culture that no apology is needed for referring
to it at some length. ‘The first thing to consider is the preparation of the soil
with which to fill the small pots wherein the runners are to be layered. It is
obvious that the compost in which the small plants are to establish themselves
must be such that the young and delicate roots may easily enter—in other

THE STRAWBERRY 173

words, it must consist of fine particles of soil, such as that passed through a
small-meshed sieve ; it must be entirely free from hard lumps, stones, or any-
thing likely to impede the progress of the tiny rootlets. We have found
nothing more suitable than good loam. Preparing the soil and filling the small
pots should be commenced early, so that when the runners are ready for layering

there need be no delay occasioned by having to wait for pots. One should
know beforehand approxi-

mately how many plants
will be required, and as
many small pots filled with
the prepared compost should
be made ready.- It is advis-
able to keep the small pots
(when they are filled) some-

where in the shade; if placed 7p A “ RUNNER” BEARING PLANTLETS
where the sun can_ reach Oe Veale BIZes

them the soil becomes dry (o) First runners of layering size ; (2) second runners, not desir-

and hard, and needs soaking able unless runners are scarce ; (g) third runner; (7)

with water to moisten it Hotes stem extending; (s) point of cutting off runner

thoroughly again. No less

important than keeping the prepared pots in the shade, is the necessity for
placing them where they are sheltered from the rain, otherwise the soil, if the
weather is at all wet, will become sodden and totally unsuitable as a rooting
medium for the young strawberry plants. We have always made use of a shed
that faces north for the preparation of the soil and filling the pots, then stacking
them upon each other until required. When the runners are ready, it is an
easy matter to take them to the strawberry ground in a wheelbarrow.

Before commencing to insert the runners in the small pots, there are several
minor details whose observance will greatly tend to convenience of working,
and also, to some extent, will affect the future welfare and progress of the
plants. In the first place, the worker should so dispose the pots as to leave the
path between every other row entirely clear, so that one may pass along without
fear of doing any damage to the plants. This is of importance, because when
the runners are well rooted and growing strongly, they take a surprising amount
of water. It is not wise to layer a larger number of runners from any one
plant than is necessary to make up the quantity required. The object should
be to have the runners distributed as evenly as possible throughout the planta-
tion ; much then will have been achieved towards obtaining plants of regular
and satisfactory growth. For instance, if two thousand young strawberry plants
are required, and there are, say, four hundred old plants from which to obtain
them, select about five runners from each. It is obviously unwise to take
a larger number from one plant than is necessary, for they must suffer to a
certain extent, and in fact, they do, for “blind” ones are likely to be more
numerous if too many are selected from one parent plant. It will be noticed
that upon each stalk-like growth several of these tiny plants are produced, and
here again a word of caution is necessary. If sufficient plants can thus be

174 THE FRUIT GARDEN

obtained, take only one from each stalk, and that nearest to the parent-plant
will usually be found to be the best. When two or more plantlets originating
from the same stalk are layered, the first invariably takes the lead, much to
the detriment of the others. In any but exceptionally bad seasons it is rarely
that enough runners will not be obtained by going over all the plants, selecting
an even number from each, and not more than one from the same stalk.

“ Burnp” Runners.—But even more important than any of the foregoing
precautions, is the necessity for discarding any “blind” runners there may be,
and layering only those which are good and sound. A runner is technically known
as “blind” when its centre (whence, of course, emanate the young leaves, and
eventually the flowers and fruit) has become abortive, and growth apparently
has practically ceased. A “blind” runner can easily be recognised, for the
centre of the tiny plant, if felt, will be found to be empty—to contain no
embryo leaves. ‘To insert many “blind” runners in the pots will mean,
besides the expenditure of much fruitless labour, a very serious loss to the
cultivator, for none of them will produce flowers, and therefore, no fruit.
If many of these abortive plants have escaped the notice of the grower
during the work of layering, the number of plants at his disposal for forcing
will be considerably diminished. It will be seen, therefore, that the greatest
care should be exercised in selecting the runners for layering. A certain
number of “ blind” runners will always be layered, but that cannot be helped,
for some few may become “blind” after layering, or may have been passed
as sound when they were really otherwise.

Having selected a sufficient number of runners from each plant, a corre-
sponding number of small pots should be placed around the plant where the
runners may be most conveniently layered into them, bearing in mind the.
necessity, as above explained, of keeping every alternate pathway open to
allow of watering being done without difficulty. ‘The pots should be plunged
in the ground, so that the roots are kept cool and not exposed to the
fierce sun heat. The labour of watering is much diminished by taking the
precaution to plunge the pots, and the benefit to the plants themselves is also
considerable, for the soil is thereby kept cool and moist, and remains more
suitable as a rooting medium than if it were baked hard and dry by exposure
to the sun.

LayERING.—Such are some of the most important preliminary items to
be borne in mind when proceeding to layer strawberries ; having disposed of
them we may say a few words with reference to the actual operation. By
layering the runner is indicated its insertion in the pot of soil that it may
become well rooted, and eventually firmly established there, and there are
various methods of accomplishing this object. “That found by us to be the
one most worthy of recommendation, and one we have practised very largely,
is the following. Having plunged the pot in the ground, take a piece of rafha,
or a shred pulled from an old mat, or a cloth shred (such as is used to attach
the shoots of fruits trees growing against walls) about 3 or 34 inches long,
double it around the stalk of the runner close to the plant, and then with a
small pointed stick press the shred into the soil of the pot so deeply that the

THE STRAWBERRY Lys

plant itself is brought down to the soil, and indeed partly covered by it. It
should be so low that while its base is covered the heart or centre of the
plant is not. In inserting the runner another important point to bear in mind
is that of making the plant firm. Indeed throughout the culture of the straw-
berry this must be practised if a successful issue is to result. Satisfactory crops
of strawberries were never yet obtained from plants not made firm in the soil,
no matter at what stage of their development, whether as runners in small
pots, or as established plants in fruiting pots. If the runner is placed as
deeply as mentioned above, and the shred is made secure in the soil, there will
be little danger of the plant not being firm. Supposing sufficient plants to be
obtained by layering one only from each stalk selected, the remaining ones

THREE METHODS OF LAYERING STRAWBERRIES

(¢) One-year-old plant in fruit, which is the best to take runners from, for although
unfruitful plants produce the most runners, they should never be selected for
increase ; () runner layered in 3-inch pot and secured with galvanized wire peg ;
(v) runner layered in a 3-inch square of reversed turf and secured with a wire
peg; (w) runner layered into 5 or 6-inch pot and secured with wire peg.

should be cut off, so that they may not interfere with the development of the
layered one. Make a point also of choosing the firmest and most vigorous
runners, for they will make the best plants. When sufficient plants have been
secured, there remains but little to do until they are ready to be transferred to
the fruiting pots. The thing to attend to is, of course, the watering, for upon
the proper performance of this duty will largely depend the plants’ progress.
It has been before mentioned that they require a great deal of water during
the period that elapses between layering and repotting. And this is due, as
may be easily understood, to their being in quite small pots which become
quickly filled with roots, and that the season is the hottest part of the year
(the months of July and early August). Early morning, and again in the
afternoon, are the best times to give water to the plants, for then it has an oppor-
tunity of soaking through the soil, and so reaching all the roots. “The number of
times that it is necessary to water the runners will depend entirely upon the
weather ; whereas one day once would suffice, three waterings would not be

176 THE FRUIT GARDEN

too many on another occasion. Whatever the number, the layers, as we
may now call them, must never be allowed to suffer from drought. To
facilitate watering, tubs fixed on two wheels and a framework, with handles
to enable them to be pushed along easily, are in use in many gardens, and prove
most convenient.

OrHER Metuops or Layerinc.—At the commencement of this chapter
it was mentioned that there were other methods of rooting strawberry layers
besides the one here detailed at length. The two principal are those whereby
the runners are immediately layered into their fruiting pots, or are pre-
viously (instead of being placed in small pots) layered into turves, and when
rooted in these are eventually transferred to larger pots. “Those who practise
the first mentioned of these two methods claim that much labour is dispensed
with, the strawberry plant being at once placed in the pot where it will
remain until it bears fruit. The medium of the small pot is thus altogether
done away with in this case. Where the plants grown in pots are few this
plan may, and, indeed, does answer, but where thousands of strawberry
plants are forced, and the finest possible fruit is desired, we do not advocate
it. In dealing with large numbers of plants, say from five to ten thousand,
one can imagine that the labour of transporting such a number of 6-inch
pots filled with soil to the strawberry plantation, and then removing when
rooted to the quarters assigned them for the autumn and winter, would be
immense. Runners so rooted also have this disadvantage, the soil in which
they are first placed has to serve them always, except for the very small amount
of fresh compost that may be given asa top dressing. And exposed, as it is,
to the baking heat of the summer sun (for the pots are so large and unwieldy
that they cannot be plunged in the ground like small ones), and, what is
more injurious still, to the force of the summer and autumn rains, it may
quickly be rendered unsuitable as a rooting medium.

A serious drawback to layering the runners in turves instead of small
pots, lies in the danger incurred when removing them to the fruiting pots of
breaking, or otherwise damaging the roots. No doubt the layers will root
as freely into the turves as they do in the small pots filled with soil, but the
advantages of this method are so doubtful that we do not recommend it. In
the first place, it may be almost as expensive to obtain a sufficient number
of turves as it is to purchase the small pots, while the convenience of the other
method, and, if ordinary care is taken, the almost entire absence of risk in
transferring the plants to their fruiting pots make it preferable. Plants in
small pots can be moved about in barrows, trucks, &c., with the greatest ease,
and without the possibility of damaging the roots, but the same cannot be
said for plants rooted in turves.

PRovIDING THE RuNNnERs.— Where strawberries are grown in large
quantities, and the finest quality fruits are a séme quad non, a plantation should
be made with the object, not of obtaining fruits from the plants, but of
getting runners from them ; in fact, they should be restricted to this use only.
It is not difficult to believe that runners obtained from plants not allowed to
bear fruits, will be superior to some extent to those taken from plants which

STRAIVBERRY CULTURE IN POTS FOR MARKET,

‘SUIT WONT SFIMMTTMVULS LODLOUT OL AIOH

THE STRAWBERRY iy

bear a crop of fruits, as well as develop runners. In the one instance, all the
plants’ energies are devoted to the production of runners, and in the other
they have to bear a double burden. ‘This practice is not, of course, absolutely
necessary, especially if the strawberry plants are growing upon good ground,
and are well looked after ; it is, however, of great advantage. For some years
we made a practice of annually planting a piece of ground with strong and
well-rooted runners, from which the following year we obtained splendid plants
for pot culture, and the results quite justified the practice.

PREPARATION FOR Porrinc.—Presuming the plants to have been layered,
preparation should be made for repotting them, in early August, into larger pots
in which they will bear fruit. The chief ingredient of the soil must be good
turfy loam, preferably turf cut from meadow land, and built the previous autumn
into a large stack. Many cultivators place a layer
of manure between each layer of turves as the
stacking proceeds, and this is a plan to be recom-
mended, for the soil is made much richer thereby.
There is another considerable advantage in
obtaining the loam and stacking it out-of-doors
the year before it is required for use. It often
happens that fresh soil contains a great number
of wire-worms, and if this should be the case, full
exposure throughout the winter would prove of
great benefit. The soil also by such exposure
becomes more suitable as a rooting medium
than that freshly cut from a pasture. Prepare
the soil for potting, if possible, under cover, so
that it may be sheltered from rain. If an open
shed is not available to protect it, cover it over
with boards. ‘To obtain the best results with
forced strawberries, the soil used for the final — section or 6INcH Pot wiITH

potting should be of good quality. It must be PLANT PROPERLY POTTED
remembered that the plants remain in the pots (Al Drsiaages (gl soll voeber pare
from August until the following February, over drainage; (4) roots of
March, April, or May, as the case may be, and ae oe te
that the strawberry is a vigorous grower and when watering.

feeder. Bearing this in mind, it will be seen

how essential it is that the soil should be good in the first place. Break up the
turves with a spade into pieces about the size of a pigeon’s egg, taking care not
to smash it, otherwise the soil will be made too fine. With the loam should be
mixed a certain amount of manure ; we have found that taken from a spent mush-
room bed to be excellent material. It may be used in the proportion of one-
fourth to three-fourths of loam. A sprinkling of bone meal or crushed bones,
and of lime rubble broken small, is also of benefit. All the ingredients should
be well mixed together, and if the soil is dry it must be watered as the work of
turning and mixing proceeds. It is advisable to prepare a large heap of soil in
the first place, sufficient, if possible, to serve for potting the majority of the

M

178 THE FRUIT GARDEN

plants. It may then be transferred to the potting bench as required. If there
still remain pieces of turf larger than a pigeon’s egg, they should be pulled
into smaller pieces by the hand before being used.

Porrinc THE Runners.—The most suitable pot in which the runners
can be potted is 6 inches in diameter at the top. ‘There are certain varieties
grown for very early forcing that, however, do not grow vigorously even when
cultivated in the open, and therefore much less so when forced early. They
may with advantage be placed in pots of 44 inches diameter (ordinarily called
48's), for fewer roots will be made. We have-tried the practice of using
8-inch pots, the size larger than the 6-inch, for some varieties of vigorous
growth, but the results did not justify our repeating it. The pot made use
of by those who grow strawberries for market in many thousands is the
6-inch one, and there is no doubt that it is the best.

An insufficiency of drainage, or drainage carelessly disposed, will
deleteriously affect the health of the plant. ‘The soil becomes more or
less soddened and sour, because the water given does not pass away freely.
First place a crock over the hole in the bottom of the pot, large enough
to extend for quite half an inch beyond the hole all around. Over
the single large crock place smaller ones to the depth of about half an
inch. The base of the pot must be well covered, and they must not be
tumbled in together haphazard, or, at any rate, the first few must not, or
they will probably displace the one that covers the opening. Then select
the roughest pieces of turf and place them immediately over the drainage.
This will prevent any of the fine soil falling into, and perhaps choking it.
Remove the rooted strawberry runner from its small pot. ‘There should be so
much material in the bottom of the 6-inch pot that when the small plant is
placed therein the surface soil of the latter reaches to within about an inch of
the rim of the former. Dislodge the drainage from the small plant, if this can
be done without disturbing the roots, but if the roots have completely covered
the crocks let these remain. With the prepared compost fill the space all
round, taking care not to place too much in at once, and make it firm with a
wooden rammer as the work proceeds. Continue until the surface roots of the
plant have been covered with half an inch of soil. Firm potting is essential.
The only time that the wooden rammer should be used lightly is in making the
soil firm immediately above the roots. Care is then necessary, or the roots
may be damaged. With regard to the depth at which the rooted runner should
be inserted, the remarks made on this point when treating of layering are
applicable. Place it so deeply that while the plant is quite covered, the heart,
ie, the centre whence spring the young leaves, is not.

TREATMENT WHEN Porrep.—The newly potted plants should be placed
for a week or ten days in a shady position, so that the roots may get hold of the
new soil as quickly as possible. ‘This they are more likely to do in the shade
than if the hot sun were shining upon them. Providing the runners were
thoroughly well watered the day before being potted, they will not require to
be watered for a few days; they should, however, be well syringed every
afternoon.

THE STRAWBERRY 179

After having been in a shady part of the garden for a week or so, they may
be removed to an open and sunny position, there to complete their growth.
The ground upon which they are placed should be level and hard, and covered
with a thin layer of ashes. “This will serve both as a cool base for the plants,
and will prevent the entrance of worms into the pots. Arrange the plants in
rows 9 or 10 inches apart, placing the pots about 4 inches from each other
in the rows. After the sixth row, leave a small pathway sufficiently wide
to allow a person to walk along for the purpose of watering. By having this
passage after every sixth row of plants, the three rows upon either side of it can
be watered with ease.

W aTERING.—Giving water to the plants will now be the most important
work of the cultivator, and this must be attended to with care. When well
rooted the plants will take a surprising amount of water, two or even more
applications being necessary daily during the hottest weather ; and that they
are not allowed to suffer from the want of water is, it need hardly be said, of
the utmost importance. Every afternoon, about five o’clock, when the sun
has ceased to shine directly upon them, syringe the plants, for this promotes a
clean and healthy growth and keeps down insect pests. Remove all runners
that appear by pinching them off when quite small, and eradicate weeds. In
the early autumn examine the plants and remove any side-growths or off-shoots
that have formed. ‘These minor “crowns” or growths are valueless. When
the autumn is unusually wet, strawberry plants (some varieties more than
others) have a tendency to divide or to split up into several small crowns in
this way. In sucha case, that is, where no one growth is much better than
another, the only course to adopt is to select, say, three of the best, and remove
the remainder.

During the late summer a slight top dressing of some artificial manure is
beneficial. It should be sprinkled very thinly upon the soil, lightly pricking it
in the latter with a pointed stick to prevent its being blown or washed away.

WinTeER Prorection.—Upon the approach of winter it becomes necessary
to protect the plants to a certain extent from the effects of frost, not so much
the plants themselves perhaps as the roots and the pots. There are various
methods employed. Some cultivators simply stack the strawberry pots on their
sides, spreading a little straw over the uppermost layer. For simplicity the
method is to be commended, but the plants packed in this way often suffer
from the soil becoming dry, and we think the plan we are about to describe,
which has been practised in the Royal Gardens for many years with hundreds
of thousands of plants, is more effectual and hardly less simple. First, place the
plants closely together in a straight line ; then place a layer of bracken or
ashes (preferably the former) alongside the pots; next a row of plants, and
press these against the bracken so that it forms an effectual layer between them.
The roots will then be protected, and the pots prevented from cracking.
This they are very liable to do if exposed to severe frost. Continue to
place a row of plants and a layer of bracken alternately until all have been
disposed of. The first row will also need covering on the outside. Many
thousands of plants can be placed together upon a small piece of ground when

180 THE FRUIT GARDEN

thus packed closely ; they are quite safe, and may be left alone until required
for forcing.

PREPARING FoR Forcinc.—The preparation for forcing the strawberry plant
will be altogether determined by the season at which ripe fruits are required.
To obtain these in the month of February necessitates much more work than
the production of fruit a month or two later. During the spring months the
plants make much quicker progress than is possible in the dull sunless days of
November and December, and their culture then is not such an expensive
matter as the very early forcing of strawberries. Most strawberries grown
under glass for market are not forced early, but just sufficiently so to ripen
them during the six or eight weeks immediately preceding the ripening of the
outdoor crop. This is evidently found to be the most profitable method.
Strawberries forced so as to be ripe in February and March command very high
prices, but the demand for them is strictly limited. Although such good prices
are not obtained later in the season, the quantities disposed of are so much
greater, and the cost of production so considerably less, that growers realise a better
profit upon their outlay. Exclusive of the high price of very early forced
strawberries, another reason of their limited consumption lies doubtless in the
fact that the flavour is not of the best. We speak now of fruits that are ripe
in February. The quality of forced strawberries depends greatly upon the late
winter and early spring. Cold and sunless weather will necessitate much
artificial heat, and fruits produced under such conditions are naturally deficient
in flavour. Given comparatively mild and sunny weather, however, straw-
berries in February and March should compare not unfavourably with those
grown out-of-doors and ripening in June. If ripe strawberries are required
in April, they may be had by commencing to force the plants eight weeks
before, but if ripe fruits were wanted in February, it would be necessary to
commence forcing quite twelve weeks previously. Cold weather and the
absence of sun are, of course, responsible for the extra time involved.

Very Earty Forcinc.—To have ripe strawberries towards the end of
February the plants must be taken under cover not later than the middle of
November, and the best method is to plunge them in a mild hot bed, preferably
composed of leaves and made up in a frame. A better place for the plants
during the first few weeks could not be wished for. The bed of leaves should
be made so high that the plants when plunged therein are within 6 or 8 inches
of the glass. The bottom heat will encourage root growth, and this is of
great advantage, for once the roots begin to make progress the leaf growth of
the plant will soon follow. For the first week or ten days the pit or frame
should be quite cold so far as the use of artificial heat is concerned ; afterwards,
until the plants come into flower, the temperature at night may be kept at
50 degs. Fahr. Do not open the lights to admit air during cold, damp, or foggy
weather, but only when the frame would become too hot by reason of sun heat
or exceptionally mild weather. Then admit just enough air (the lights need
only be pushed down an inch or two) to prevent the temperature rising too
quickly, and not with the object of lowering it. Close the frame early in the
afternoon, and syringe the plants at the same time. By so doing a moist

THE STRAWBERRY 181

atmosphere conducive to growth is produced. It will not be found necessary
to give much water to the roots during the first few weeks.

Tue Pranrs 1n FLowrer.—If started in mid-November and thus treated
the strawberry plants ought to be in flower soon after Christmas, and when
in flower they must be treated very carefully. At such an early season it is
no easy matter to get the flowers to “set’’—a technical term indicating the
formation of the embryo fruits. As soon as the first flowers appear remove
the plants upon which they are produced to a house that is light and can be
efficiently ventilated and heated; eventually take all the plants there as they
come into flower. Place them near the glass, that is to say, within 8 inches or
so, that they may have all the light possible. Keep the night temperature of
the house at 55 degs. Fahr., and admit the maximum amount of air permissible
under the conditions prevailing out-of-doors. If there is frost then, of course,
air must not be given. Keep the atmosphere of the house dry by a judicious
regulation of the heating apparatus ; anything approaching dampness is fatal to
the “setting” of the flowers. The object of keeping the temperature warm
and dry, and of admitting to the flowers as much fresh air as possible, is to
facilitate fertilisation, and this is effected because the pollen remains dry and
is therefore easily dispersed. In this early forcing of the strawberry it is
necessary to pass over each individual flower with a camel-hair brush so as to
aid fertilisation. Unfavourable weather often prevails when early strawberries
are in flower, so that every opportunity of helping them to “set” should be
taken.

Tue Frurrs Formep.—In a week or ten days after the opening of the
flowers there ought to bea sufficient number of fruits “set,” and to be able to deter-
mine when the embryo fruit is properly formed is most important. If the plants
are placed in a warm and moist house before the young fruits are really formed
these will prove a complete failure. Instead of at once commencing to develop
as they should, the tiny fruits will become hard and stunted, and, although they
may reach maturity, will be so mis-shapen, under-sized, and flavourless as to be
useless. To be able to say positively that the fruit is “set,” all the numerous
tiny yellow pistils that cover the receptacle (really the embryo fruit) should
have shrivelled. So long as they remain yellow they are not fertilised. Flowers
whose centres turn black should be picked off, for they are useless. Before
removing a plant from the cool and airy house in which it has been while in
flower make sure that a sufficient number of fruits are properly formed. It is
quite a false idea to think that the development of the fruits may be hurried by
placing them in a warm house immediately the petals have fallen, for this does
not necessarily indicate that the embryo fruits are perfectly formed. Not only
is nothing gained by removing them from the cool house too soon, but very
often serious losses may ensue through doing this. It is impossible to attempt
to force strawberries with success before they are perfectly formed ; instead of
being hastened their development will be arrested, and the fruits will most
probably be spoilt.

Leave the plants in the cool house for a few days after all the tiny
pistils show by turning colour that they have been fertilised ; it is far pre-

182 THE FRUIT GARDEN

ferable to let them remain cool a little too long than not long enough.
If perfectly “set” the fruits will, when placed in a warm, moist house,
make rapid progress. The night temperature of the house in which the
plants should be grown when their fruits are “set”? may be from 60 to 65
degs. Fahr. for the first two weeks. It may then be increased to 70 degs.
Syringe the plants frequently, and keep the atmosphere of the house moist.
Admit a little air during favourable weather, but close the house early in
the afternoon, well moistening the plants and their surroundings at the same
time. Attend carefully to giving water to the plants, never allowing the soil
to become at all dry, or the development of the fruits will be checked. Weak
farmyard manure water or sprinklings of guano upon the surface of the soil are
of great benefit while the fruits are swelling. In the course of several weeks it
will be noticed that the strawberries turn from green to almost white, and this
indicates the period of colouring to be near. Not until they are changing to
the red colour that denotes the near approach of ripeness must there be any
change in the cultural methods. Everything possible should be done to assist
and encourage the fruits to develop rapidly by maintaining the proper night
temperature, admitting air on all favourable occasions, closing the house early
so as to make it naturally warm, and always keeping the atmosphere moist.
As the fruits approach ripeness, that is to say, when they are about half
coloured, the temperature of the house should be lowered to 65 degs. (leaving
a little air on throughout the night if the weather is mild), the amount of
moisture lessened, although the water given to the roots should not be
diminished ; not until the fruits are almost ripe should less water be given.
The cultivator must judge for himself when development of the fruits has
ceased, and then, of course, less water will be required; the strawberry,
however, really grows to within a few days of its maturity. The flavour
of forced strawberries is much improved by a free circulation of air about the
ripening fruits: the grower should bear this in mind, and take every opportunity
of admitting it. Fresh air need not delay the ripening of the fruits, for the
house may still be closed early in the afternoon, so as to increase the temperature ;
if the nights are not cold a little air should always be left on the house in
which strawberries are ripening.

A Succession or Fruirs.—From the ripening of the first forced straw-
berries until fruits are gathered out-of-doors, most cultivators endeavour to
maintain a continued supply, and this is not a difficult matter if the plants are
removed to warmer quarters in sufficient numbers and at regular intervals. As
brighter and longer days are experienced the forcing of the strawberry will
neither be so difficult nor take so long as earlier in the year. Plants from
outside, where they have been protected by bracken during the winter, and
placed in warmth in early January, may be expected to produce ripe fruits in
nine or ten weeks’ time. Plants not forced into fresh activity before the end
of January should give ripe fruits in eight weeks. The progress made by plants
forced during January and February depends very much upon the weather then
experienced ; when these months are over bright days are the rule rather than
the exception, and the strawberry grower has rarely occasion to trouble himself

THE STRAWBERRY 183

about the weather. In January and February, however, it is different, and
therefore when we say that ripe fruits may be had in nine or ten weeks’ time
from plants started in early January the weather is presumed to be moderately
favourable.

The quantity of fruits required and the number of plants at disposal will
determine how many of the latter should be placed in heat together. Most
forced strawberries are placed on the market in April and May, for then they
are obtained at a minimum of cost and risk of failure. It is certainly an
advantage in forcing strawberries during the month of January to plunge the
plants in a mild hot bed upon removing them from their winter quarters
out-of-doors. They are thereby assisted considerably in making fresh roots.
With plants started later, however, this precaution becomes unnecessary, unless
the weather during February proves to be exceptionally cold. ‘There are
numerous positions in the glass-houses of every garden that are well suited to
the forced strawberry plant. Vuineries and peach-houses at rest or just started,
cold pits, or frames that are empty, do admirably. In cold houses little growth
is made, but after a few weeks there the plants, when placed in a warmer
house, make quicker progress than if they had been left out-of-doors altogether.

TEMPERATURE.—Nothing is more injurious to strawberry forcing than a
high temperature at first. Until the flowers have appeared and the fruits have
formed, artificial heat should be most carefully requisitioned. The night
temperature during the first fortnight should be 50 degs. Fahr., to be raised the
next week to 55 degs., and afterwards increased to 60 degs., there to remain
until the fruits have “set.” An abundance of air on all favourable occasions
when the strawberry plants are in flower is very necessary. Air both at thé
top of the house and at the bottom should be given so as to provide a circulation
around the plants. Keep the atmosphere dry.

When the fruits are “set ”—and they will form much more readily than
early in the year—remove them to a house where the night temperature is
65 degs. Fahr., placing them near the glass. Before doing so, however, thin
out the fruits, leaving six or seven only upon each plant. ‘These will be quite
sufficient if the finest strawberries are to be obtained. The thinning required
will altogether depend upon the number of fruits “set.” Supposing four or five
only to have formed, they would of course be left untouched. That the largest
and best-shaped fruits should be allowed to remain is obvious.

It is of advantage if a house can be devoted solely to strawberry forcing, for
much labour in moving the plants to warmer houses is thereby saved. When
a sufficient number of fruits are “set” upon each plant, the house may then be
kept moist and warm to encourage the development of the fruits. When
the fruits are properly formed, they can really be “forced,” for once well
“set” the fruits may with advantage be given plenty of heat and moisture.
Syringe them frequently several times during the course of the day. Close the
house early in the afternoon (it does not matter if the thermometer then
registers 80 to 85 degs.) and moisten the walls, floor, &c. Increase the
temperature from 65 to 70 degs. in a fortnight after bringing the plants into a
warm house.

184 THE FRUIT GARDEN

“STRAWBERRIES IN COLD FRAMES

A crop of excellent strawberries can be obtained from plants grown in a
cold frame, and they will be ripe some few weeks before those outside are
ready for picking. Ripening as they do when the forced fruits are almost over,
and before outdoor fruits are ready, these strawberries are much appreciated ;
they are, moreover, of the best quality. Preparation for this phase of straw-
berry culture consists in making up a bed of leaves in the frame in August to
within about 18 inches of the glass. Make the bed quite firm by treading.
Upon this place a layer of good turfy loam 9 inches deep, making this firm also.
Good plants layered the previous month, July, should be planted in the bed of
soil in rows 2 feet apart, each piant being distant from the other 18 inches.
Plant them firmly. Beyond the very necessary item of giving water when it is
required, these plants will need little attention for some time. Remove all
runners that appear and eradicate weeds. ‘The glass lights should be left off
until the approach of bad weather, say November, then place them on the
frame there to remain during winter. Air, however, may be given almost
every day, except when there is severe frost or heavy fog. In wet weather the
lights can easily be raised at the back of the frame to admit air, and the water
will at the same time drain away.

With the approach of bright weather plenty of air must be given to prevent
the plants making too rapid progress, and bearing fruit before it is required, for
the great value of strawberries grown in a cold frame lies in their ripening just
before those out-of-doors. Some of the finest dishes of strawberries grown at
Frogmore have been obtained from plants grown in a cold frame. One should
endeavour to have them in flower by about the end of April. The fruits can
afterwards be either retarded or advanced as is necessary. When the fruits
are developing, manure water given to the plants is of great assistance. In
good soil and allowed to grow naturally, they produce many more fruits
than do plants in pots treated similarly. One can always be certain of
obtaining a good crop of fruits, for the plants are safe from the spring frosts
which often do so much damage to strawberry plants in flower out-of-doors.
The frame should be covered with mats when sharp frosts are probable. We
have found no varieties better suited for this method of culture than Royal
Sovereign and La Grosse Sucrée.

STRAWBERRIES IN THE AUTUMN

A gathering of strawberries in the autumn is not now a great luxury, for
with the introduction of autumn-fruiting varieties, they are comparatively easily
obtained. With the autumn-fruiting varieties proper we are not, however,
at present concerned, for they are treated of separately. We would now
point out how, with very little trouble, strawberries may be obtained twice
in one season from the same plants—in spring, and again in the autumn. It is
usual to consign forced strawberry plants to the rubbish heap when the fruits

THE STRAWBERRY 185

have been gathered from them. Those, however, who appreciate strawberries
in the autumn should save some of the best. For several years we made a
practice of keeping some hundreds of forced plants of Royal Sovereign when
they were removed from the houses. These were carefully attended to during
the summer months, all runners and weeds removed, water given, &c. Old
soil to the depth of about 1 inch was removed, and replaced with new turfy
soil with which some artificial manure had been mixed. During August when
the flowers appeared, manure water was often given, and its use continued
during the development of the fruits. The plants were grown in a sunny
position, and placed sufficiently wide apart to allow a circulation of air all about
them ; morning and evening they were thoroughly well syringed : this is an
important item, for it greatly helps to keep that pest, red spider, in check.
By following this treatment, and thinning the fruits to six or eight on each

plant, we were able to gather strawberries throughout September and part of
October.

VARIETIES

The strawberry that market growers cultivate under glass in preference to
any other is Royal Sovereign. And it has been the experience of most that no
variety produces better early fruits than Royal Sovereign. Even for fruiting
very early in the year it is the best we have tried. Having grown several
varieties side by side in order to test their respective merits for early forcing, the
opinions formed of them and their characteristics may be of value. It is,
however, to early forcing alone that these remarks apply. Probably, if these
strawberry plants had been placed under glass in late March or early April,
there would not have been so great a difference in their qualities. It should be
mentioned that very dull weather prevailed during the greater portion of the
first few weeks after the plants mentioned below were placed under glass, thus
accounting for the apparently long time that elapsed before flowers were
produced. The varieties under trial were the following: Royal Sovereign,
La Grosse Sucrée, President, British Queen, and Keen’s Seedling. On the
26th January fifty plants of each (with the exception of Keen’s Seedling, of
which there were but forty) were placed under glass in a temperature of 55
degs. Fahr., raised after a week to 60 degs. The first variety to come into
flower was British Queen. On 18th February there were two flowers open
upon a plant of this, though, strange to say, the number remained the same for
ten days afterwards. It was not until 1st March that more flowers expanded :
six were then open. No less than eleven plants of British Queen were of no
value, either through being totally blind, or producing puny, badly-formed
blossoms. Of the remaining thirty-nine, twenty-seven were in flower by 6th
March, the other twelve opening shortly afterwards. Next in order came
President, with one flower out on 20th February, and this was quickly followed
by many others; thirty-eight were open on 27th February, and by 3rd March
forty-six were in flower, the remaining four being blind.

La Grosse Sucrée first opened on 23rd February. On ist March forty-two

186 THE FRUIT GARDEN

blooms were out, and the full number (forty-four) were in flower by 6th March,
the remaining six being useless. Also on 23rd February, exactly four weeks
from the time of starting, Keen’s Seedling opened its first lowers. Twenty-one
were expanded on 27th February, and by 6th March the full number of good
ones (thirty-three out of forty) were fully open. Royal Sovereign did not come
into bloom until 28th February, being the last one to do so. By 6th March,
however, thirty-six plants were in flower, and five more quickly followed, thus
leaving nine blind ones.

The percentage of healthy flowering plants of each ane was as follows :—
President, 92 pet cent.; La Grosse Sucrée, 88 per cent.; Keen’s Seedling,
824 per cent.; Royal Sovereign, 82 per cent.; British Queen, 78 per cent.
President, closely followed by La Grosse Suede, thus had the highest average,
British Queen the lowest, Royal Sovereign and Keen’s Seedling being almost
equally good. Notwithstanding the excellent start made by President and
Keen’s Seedling, so far as the production of flowers is concerned, the ultimate
results, without doubt, marked, Royal Sovereign and La Grosse ’Suerée as the
most suitable and satisfactory. The former produces strong scapes bearing
numerous large flowers that have plenty of pollen, and set remarkably well.
In order to have plants of La Grosse Sucrée at their best so early in the season,
they should have plenty of light, otherwise the flowers instead of developing
properly often remain among the leaves, a state of affairs detrimental to their
fertilisation. For a first early strawberry, to be started in November, Royal
Sovereign is the better of these two. Its flowers are borne upon longer and
more vigorous stalks than those of La Grosse Sucrée, and are, therefore, not
affected to the same extent by the dull, sunless weather invariably experienced
at that season. A point in favour of La Grosse Sucrée is that it does not
require nearly so much room for development as does Roya! Sovereign. The
latter variety, as is well known, grows very freely and produces more foliage.
The fruits of these two strawberries are totally different in colour and appear-
ance, so that it is a matter of opinion as to which is the better. Well-developed
fruits of La Grosse Sucrée are rather smaller than those of Royal Sovereign, of
a deep, crimson colour, and very sweet. ‘The fruits of the latter are bright red
with prominent seeds, lacking the fine flavour of the former, though more freely
produced, and of handsome appearance. Keen’s Seedling also has an abundance
of dark-green foliage, and bears numerous flowers—small and weak compared
to those of Royal Sovereign—that set fairly well. The ripe fruits are small, of
very pleasant flavour, and of quite dark colour. British Queen has proved the
least satisfactory ; the flowers were few, badly formed, and “set” but indiffer-
ently. Though one of the best flavoured strawberries in cultivation, if not the
best, its constitution is certainly such as to render it unfit for early forcing.
President produced numerous flowers, but they were weak, small, and far from
satisfactory.

Doubtless if more favourable weather had been experienced during early
spring some of these varieties would have done better, but as the chief value of
a strawberry suitable for early forcing lies in its weather-defying capabilities,
the fact of the above-mentioned ones proving of little worth marks them as

THE STRAWBERRY 187

unsuitable for the purpose under consideration. Later in the season, as the
days lengthen and the sun increases in power, they probably would succeed
under pot cultivation ; possibly there are few strawberries that would not. We
have forced a few plants of James Veitch, and found them to do very well.
The flowers are large, of good substance, and set easily ; the fruit is pleasant in
flavour, though its colour—a rather dull red—is not of the best.

List of varieties for first early forcing in order of merit :—Royal Sovereign, La Grosse
Sucrée, Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury.

Varieties for later forcing in order of merit :—Royal Sovereign, La Grosse Sucrée,
President, Sir Charles Napier, James Veitch, Auguste Nicaise, Sir Joseph Paxton.

Insecr Prsrs,—Strawberries do not suffer greatly from the attacks of insect
pests ; red spider and green and white fly may be said to be practically the only
ones. It has, however, a serious enemy in mildew, and it is more often attacked
by this disease than by any other. A damp, stagnant atmosphere conduces to
the spread of this fungoid disease, and it should therefore be avoided. Smearing
the hot-water pipes with sulphur or dusting the leaves with this will check its
progress. Great care must, however, be taken to prevent the pipes becoming
very hot, or the plants may suffer severely from the burning fumes that would
arise. Mildew will often attack the strawberry plants before they are brought
under glass, indeed, it often makes its appearance a few weeks after the plants
have been potted into their fruiting pots. Should the season be a wet one,
mildew is usually much more troublesome than during dry and warm weather.
The mildew on the strawberry plants is frequently contracted before the layers
are detached from the old plants; these should be carefully examined before
they are transferred to the fruiting pots, and if found to be affected should be
heavily dredged with flowers of sulphur, and isolated from plants not affected
until the mildew is destroyed. An occasional fumigation with XL-All in-
secticide should suffice to keep down the green and white fly.

ALPINE STRAWBERRIES
By JAMES HUDSON

The cultivation of Alpine strawberries in this country has not been so suc-
cessful as upon the Continent. To a great extent nurserymen are responsible ;
they have for years past persistently catalogued “runners” only, whereas
seeds and seedling plants should be offered in the lists of strawberries. Between
the seedling plants and the “runners” there is no comparison whatever, either
in freedom of growth, vigour of constitution, or in fruit-bearing qualities. The
advantage is on the side of the former in a most marked degree. Having for
several years past cultivated Alpine strawberries from seed, I speak with confi-
dence when I recommend the continental system of cultivation. It may
occasion a little more labour at the outset, such as pricking off the seedlings
into boxes or frames in order to secure strong plants.

CuLrurE.—By the French growers seed is recommended to be sown in
the autumn. I find, however, that it occasions less trouble and economises

188 THE FRUIT GARDEN

space if done in the spring. We sow the seed in March or April, one sowing
in each month. In doing this we follow the same practice as with celery.
The seed germinates better and more regularly in slight warmth, but care
must afterwards be taken not to allow the seedlings to remain under these con-
ditions after having made one or two rough leaves. ‘Then it is better to
harden them off in a cold frame. By the end of May or early in June the
seedlings should be pricked off into boxes, as is frequently done with celery
earlier in the spring. Keep them for a week or two under protection, and they
will be fit for placing outside. ‘Towards the end of July the young plants are
planted out, about 6 inches apart each way, in light well-prepared soil upon an
eastern border, where only the morning sun reaches them. Attention to
watering follows as a matter of course from the seedling stage onwards until
the plants are well established in the autumn. Every day this should be
attended to. If an eastern border is not available, one facing north will be
better than one fully exposed ; or, failing that, such as may be afforded by the
partial shade of trees.

During October the ground should be selected and duly prepared by
trenching and manuring. An open position, or one slightly shaded by fruit
trees, will answer for this; at any rate, a little more shade than the ordinary
strawberries prefer will not do any harm. It is convenient to plant in beds
rather than in continuous rows equal distances from each other. Our method
is to plant four rows at 18 inches apart, then miss one row. This gives a
good space for working and picking, two rows being worked from either
side. We plant firmly, and always water the plants afterwards. With
the exception of using the hoe a few times no other work is necessary until
growth begins again in spring. Then the surface of the soil should be lightly
stirred and ali weeds kept down. When the young plants show their first
flowers we pick these off, and continue to do so until the first week in July, by
which time the plants have gained their full vigour. For very late crops the
flowers are removed until nearly the end of July. These plants will begin to
fruit by the middle and end of August, when a daily gathering may easily be
had. ‘This will continue well into October, frequently till the end of the
month if frosts are not too severe. The “runners” are picked off until the
time of fruiting. The second year the plants are allowed to fruit early, and
continue to yield a good supply until the next lot of seedling plants are again
in bearing. The fruits will ripen about the same time as Royal Sovereign.
The old plants are then destroyed; the ground is at once prepared for some
other crop or for the next lot of seedling Alpines (we find them do well
upon the same ground year after year). A light mulch should be put upon
the seedling beds in May or June, and upon the old beds if necessary. This
can be done about the usual time. I prefer first to mulch with partially
decayed leaves and then with quite short litter, so as to afford both food for the
plants and shelter from the heat of the sun, as well as to protect the fruits from
harm. Water should be given freely whenever necessary, but manure water
is not essential. The fruits are gathered early in the morning into small
ornamental baskets in which they go direct to the table, chiefly for break-

THE STRAWBERRY 189

fast. If intended for sending away put them into square punnets. In no
case should the fruits be handled a second time. Each fruit is picked without
the stalk, except in the case of such as are picked singly for sending long
distances.

VariET1Es.—The varieties now grown are greatly superior to the old ones.
The list is not a long one. JI find the best to be :—

_ ROUGE AMELIORE, OR IMPROVED RED.—This variety has a very long fruit, is of
vigorous growth, crops well, and is admirable for long distance packing. It is bright
red in colour.

BELLE DE MEaux.—The fruits of this variety are obtuse in shape, dark colour,
and of first-class flavour.

JANUS.—Similar to the preceding in most respects, but not so dark in colour.

SUTTON’S LARGE RED.—A good selection, very prolific, and of free growth.

BLANC AMELIORE, OR IMPROVED WHITE.—This is the best white variety, and
should be grown for the sake of its colour, besides which it is a good cropper.

There are also the two varieties which do not produce runners, Sans Filets
Rouge and Sans Filets Blanc. These I do not recommend for culture in this
country. They are not so prolific, at least that has been my experience of
them. ‘They make dense plants, owing no doubt to the absence of runners,
but do not crop so well. It is my conviction that the Hautbois strawberry, if
treated in a similar way and raised annually from seed, would be far more
satisfactory than from runners,

THE BEST STRAWBERRIES
By GEORGE BUNYARD

AUGUSTE NICAISE.—Fruzt bright scarlet ; first fruits very large, cockscomb-shaped ;
later berries round and regular; sefa/s reflexed, showing smooth neck; flesh orange-
red, richly flavoured ; fo/éage bold and broad, close and compact. Except for preserving,
this variety is not recommended for outside culture, but as a second-early for forcing it is
remarkably good. It sets freely, and the berries are often 24 ozs. in weight ; even when
forced, they possess unusually good flavour.

BRITISH QUEEN.—fruzt long, wedge-shaped; orange-red, quite yellow on the
shaded side; sepals very large; seeds small, prominent; flesh firm, white, rich, sweet,
pine flavour ; Zeaves pale-green, with hoary footstalks. This old and esteemed variety
is worth very careful culture, and succeeds best on chalky or loamy soils. The crop is
never large, but the good quality of the fruit will always commend it to the amateur.
The foliage is very hairy and subject to red spider, therefore it is advisable to syringe
the plants freely after the fruit is gathered. This fruit is not figured, but it much
resembles Dr. Hogg.

CouUNTESS.—Fruzt oblong, often wedge-shaped ; colour deep red, often mulberry
coloured ; seeds small; flesh firm, marbled red. A variety of first-class flavour. Foliage
bold on short green footstalks; 4ad¢¢ compact. May be planted 1 foot apart. One of the
very finest sorts. Of handsome, glossy appearance, and splendid quality.

Dr. Hocc.—First fruits flattened, wedge-shaped; later berries long and pointed;
bright glowing pale scarlet; seeds prominent; flesh firm, white, rich luscious flavour;
foliage deep green, hoary beneath. This is certainly the finest flavoured strawberry
grown. It prefers a deep heavy soil; ironstone and clay should be introduced where
the soil is light. It resembles British Queen, but is of better habit ; the flesh is not so

190 THE FRUIT GARDEN

tough. The plants can be placed rather closely, and should not be kept over two years,
as the fruit from older beds is small and indifferent. Worthy of careful culture.

DUMBARTON CASTLE.—Fruit three-sided and pointed; orange red; seeds deeply
set; sepals hoary; flesh firm, pleasantly acid, pale; foliage deep green, compact,
covering the fruit. Plant 1 foot apart. A variety which Succeeds the main crop, and is
very prolific and useful.

EDOUARD LEFORT.—Fruit deep black-red; seeds deeply bedded ; sepals reflexed,
exposing a smooth neck; flesh red; flavour rich. A variety more suited for earliest
forcing than for open ground. More vigorous than La Grosse Sucrée: the plants form
more crowns, and thus produce a larger crop of fruits. Not figured, but resembles
Kitley’s Goliath.

ELEANOR (Oxonian).—/yruzt¢ bluntly oblong ; co/our striking carmine red to deep
red; seeds few and deeply set; /zesk red, firm. A handsome late variety of large size.
Flavour briskly acid; sepals prominent ; Zeaves pale green on short, wiry footstalks. A
great bearer. The fruit is borne on long stems away from the foliage. Still one of the
largest late varieties. It requires to be eaten with sugar. Invaluable for a late supply.
Of compact habit.

ELTON PINE. — Fruit long, wedge-shaped, sometimes rather flat; deep shining
crimson red; seeds small; sedals clasping the fruit; flesh firm, red ; flavour distinct and
good, but rather acid; fo/zage dark green, shining ; flower-stalks long ; stems pale green,
and hairy. An old and justly esteemed variety for a late supply. One of the best for
preserving.

FILBERT PINE.—Fvrwit rather long, pointed; seeds dark, showing clearly in the
orange-red skin ; flesh very firm, white, has a distinct rich flavour; fo/zage most robust,
dull green ; flower-stalks abundant, rising above the leaves. An old and justly esteemed
sort for a late crop, well repaying extra attention in a dry season.

FROGMORE LaTE PINE.—Fvuit long, conical, dull red; seeds prominent; sepals
large, reddish; favour rich and excellent; foliage pale green ; growth close and compact,
with an unhealthy look. This variety is valuable for a late crop, and should be planted
on a north border, and well fed in June if the season is dry

HavuTsois.—/7vuié produced in erect bunches of six to eight, of a dull blood red
colour when ripe, of rich aromatic flavour, greatly esteemed by many; fo/zage duli green,
downy, and produced in a compact bush-like form ; 4aéz¢ neat and suitable for edging
paths. The flowers are conspicuous, thrown well above the foliage. There are two
varieties worth culture, the Royal Hautbois and Belle d’Orléans ; they are practically
alike.

KITLEY’s GOLIATH.—Fruit bright glowing red, irregularly pointed; seeds quite
deeply set ; flesh soft, melting, pale colour ; sepals clasping the berries ; flavour brisk,
refreshing, “and j juicy ; foliage very robust ; /eaves glossy green, deeply toothed, on long
weak footstalks. Fruit produced very freely on long stems. One of the finest and best
flavoured for town gardens or home use. It is too soft to travel ; an enormous bearer.

La GROSSE SUCREE.—Fvu?t irregular and pointed, rich glossy red ; seeds black and
deeply set ; sepals reflexed, showing a smooth neck ; favour very sweet and rich ; this
variety has scanty foliage, and seldom has more than one crown; JZeaves deeply
toothed on spreading footstalks. Owing to its habit this variety should be planted
1 foot apart, but it is scarcely worth cultivating out-of-doors. Its value lies in its
adaptability to pot culture for earliest forcing. The crop is never large. In appearance
it much resembles Kitley’s Goliath, but has a long smooth neck.

LATEST OF ALL.—Fruit pale red, very large and irregularly heart-shaped, furrowed,
does not always ripen well ; seeds numerous on surface ; flesh firm, white towards centre ;
flavour aromatic, sweet and rich, resembling British Queen; a handsome and indis-
pensable variety ; fo/zage pale green, downy beneath, not abundant. Liable in hot soils to
take red spider ; should be planted on a cool and shaded border. The name is unfortu-
nate as there are several later sorts ; its place is at the end of the mid-season varieties.

Louis GAUTIER.—/vuz¢ round or cockscomb-shaped ; seeds dark ; colour striking,
peach pink; /ffesk lemon-white, soft and melting, of pleasant flavour ; sepals small ;

THE STRAWBERRY Ig!

foliage dark green, rather small, on dark footstalks; an enormous bearer, and one
that every garden should possess. The plants resist hot weather, and have also the
advantage of fruiting again in the autumn. On the dessert table it is much appreciated as a
change from the red strawberries ; valuable for town gardens, being hardy and vigorous.

MENTMORE.—Fruzt of dull red colour throughout, large, of regular shape; seeds
deeply set; flavour sweet and luscious; folvage large; growth compact, bearing
profusely. Not yet fully proved, but is very highly spoken of.

NEWTON SEEDLING.—Fruzt long and pointed, deep shining red; seeds black;
sepals slightly red ; flesh firm, pale pink, somewhat acid; foliage deep bluish green,
rather sparse ; /eaf-stalks red ; flower-stalks very long and branched. The flowers alone
render this variety worthy of a place in the garden, being large and primrose colour.
An enormous bearer and valuable for market sale as a late variety. The fruit forms a
complete fringe outside the leaves. So vigorous that the plants may be set a yard
apart each way.

PRESIDENT (Green’s).—The early fruits squarely wedge-shaped ; late ones often round ;
colour bright red; seeds small, deeply embedded ; sefa/s clasping fruit ; flesh firm, pale
red, soft and melting ; favour briskly acid, good; foliage deeply toothed, bright
shining green, very robust on long green footstalks. This is one of the best for the main
out-of-doors crop and also for forcing under glass.

QUEEN OF DENMA4RK.—Fruit small, but produced in great profusion, long and
irregular ; seeds small; sefals hoary, clasping the fruit ; favour very rich, first-rate ;
foliage strong and upright, olive green ; flower-stalks long, and thrown above the
leaves. A most valuable variety for a late crop when planted on a north border. It
bears an enormous crop.

ROYAL SOVEREIGN. — F7uit very large, abruptly wedge-shaped or pointed oval,
bright red, glossy, with small seeds slightly embedded ; flesh firm ; sepals orange red ;
flavour briskly acid, juicy, pleasant; /o/zage very robust on long red footstalks ;
Jlower-stalks \onger than the foliage. One of the earliest to ripen, and the best for early
forcing. It has not the rich flavour of some varieties, but for general usefulness over a
long season it cannot be surpassed. Its vigorous habit insures success on soils where
better sorts fail ; if only one is grown Royal Sovereign is the variety to choose.

SIR CHARLES NAPIER.—Fruit irregular, both round and cockscombed, smooth,
with short neck; colour bright red; seeds dark, lying on the surface ; flesh orange, paler
near centre; flavour briskly acid. Sepals spreading ; foliage thin, pale green, on stiff
footstalks; of moderate growth. The fruit is firm and carries well. The foliage has
an unhealthy appearance. A variety that is not always satisfactory; succeeds on
gravelly soils. Good for preserving.

STIRLING CASTLE.—F7ui¢ small, pointed or wedge-shaped, of rich, distinct flavour.
A profuse bearer. In foliage and habit this closely resembles Vicomtesse H. de Thury,
and we cannot see much difference between them. It is a good cropper, and valuable
for preserving.

SIR JOSEPH PAxTON.—F/ruit bright red, glossy, regularly pointed, seldom flat or
cocks-combed ; seeds deeply set; sepals spreading; flesh firm, pale colour; favour
slightly acid; foéiage deep dull green, very robust. This is a favourite market straw-
berry, as it is of a grand colour. In gardens under good culture it is passable, but there
are many better for private use. It is, however, valuable for preserving, hardy, and
free-bearing

THE LaxTON.—Although at the time of writing this new/ variety has not been
sent out, experts report so favourably of it that it is included. It is earlier and larger
than Royal Sovereign, darker and brighter in colour, and of grand flavour. The plant is
vigorous and hardy, and a prodigious cropper. F.C.C., R.H.S. 1902.

THE NoBLE.—/fruzt¢ bluntly round, sometimes very large; blood-red coloured all
through ; seeds small; sepals uneven ; flavour mealy, second-rate ; foliage very vigorous,
deeply toothed, robust ; flower-stalks just covered by foliage. This variety is valuable
upon soils that will not grow better sorts, the fruits ripen early, are most abundant, and
grand for preserving.

192 THE FRUIT GARDEN

TRAFALGAR.—Fruzt bright red, irregularly wedge-shaped; /lavour very rich and
sweet ; sepals clasping ; foléage moderate. Flowers abundant, rising above the foliage.
This recent variety has not been fully proved, but it is evidently a useful late one. The
raisers claim that it is the best flavoured late strawberry known.

TROLLOPE’S VICTORIA.-—Fruz¢ globular and flattened at apex, very pale orange-red ;
sepals small and blunt; seeds deeply set; flesh soft and melting, of a rich pine flavour ;
foliage very broad, strong, and robust ; Zaéz¢ compact. A good variety for town gardens.
The glossy foliage, free from hairs, is not subject to red spider. A great bearer. The
fruit ripens perfectly, but being rather soft should be gathered into the dish.

VICOMTESSE H¥ERICART DE THURY.—The /ruét is generally round, but the earliest
are often wedge-shaped ; colour dark red, with small seeds deeply set ; flavour rich,
piquant, and quite distinct ; sedals clasping the berry; flesh firm, travels well; foliage
robust and strong. This is one of the very best strawberries; although the individual
fruits are small, the crop is enormous. It is always appreciated on the table, while there
is none better for early forcing or for preserving. It has the merit of succeeding under
trees, in town gardens, and gravelly soils, and is indispensable for small gardens.

WALLUFF.—F7 uit globular, bright orange crimson ; seeds small ; sepals small; favour
briskly acid; flesh pale orange-red ; fo/iage very robust. A distinct and valuable rather
late variety, bearing freely.

WATERLOO.—Fruzz very large, mostly three-sided, deep mulberry red, very glossy;
Jiesh white ; seeds small, in round cavities; flavour juicy, melting, rather acid; foléage
rather sparse and mottled green; flower-sta/ks long, bearing the fruit well above the
leaves. The plants may be left for three years. An excellent late variety of striking
appearance and size. A good watering with liquid manure—after the flowering is past,
and before the fruit swells—will be very serviceable, as at the time this variety ripens, we
generally get very hot, drying weather. The water should be placed between the rows,
not near the plants.

AUTUMN FRUITING VARIETIES

La CONSTANTE D’AUTOMNE.—fvuzt globular, bright red; small, but produced in
great profusion ; fesk white, very melting; of rich flavour; foléage very dark green,
abundant. This is one of the very best for autumnal bearing; the old plants, and even
runners, give a large gathering until the frost. This strawberry resembles St. Joseph
in shape.

ST. ANTOINE DE Papoue.—Fruzt bluntly round; colour deep red to claret red;
seeds small; flesh white; hautbois flavour ; folzage broad, very stout and rough. The
great value of this variety consists in the fine crops of fruit it produces in the autumn.
It is by far the largest autumn-fruiting strawberry yet introduced, and is very vigorous
in growth.

SSAINT JosEPH.—Fruzt glossy red ; seeds slightly embedded; _/éesh firm, of rich sweet
flavour ; foliage deep olive-green, compact and plentiful, downy beneath. This is one
of the most healthy free-bearing sorts for an autumnal crop, and bears profusely until
the frost.

CHAPTER XVII

THE TOMATO

By OWEN THOMAS

So much value is now attached to the tomato as a summer fruit that its
inclusion in important collections is common. Even so long ago as the six-
teenth century it was a common article of dessert among the Portuguese.
Lunan says of this fruit, “I have eaten five or six raw at a time. They
are full of a pulpy juice, and of small seeds, which you swaJlow with the
pulp, and have something of a gravy taste.” The tomato is a native of
South America, and probably also of Mexico, whence it appears to have
been brought by the Spaniards. It was common in continental gardens as
far back as the year 1583, and according to “ Hortus Kewensis” it found its
‘way into England in 1596, but is supposed to have been introduced previous
to that date, as Gerarde mentions it in the early part of his voluminous work as
growing in his garden. From the same authority we also learn that the yellow
variety is as old as the red, for he says: “ There has happended into my hands
another sort agreeing very notably with the former, only the fruit whereof was
yellow.” In England the tomato was regarded as of little value until some
twenty or thirty years ago. Since then it has been gradually but surely rising
in public favour, and so important has it become that it may legitimately claim
ito be classed as a dessert fruit, and so we propose to treat it. It is not too
much to say that no product of the garden of late years has grown in popularity
‘to such a degree as the tomato. The methods practised by our home growers
‘to meet the greatly increased demand have been on a large scale also, many
hundreds of acres being covered with glass for the culture of this fruit alone.
So large has been the demand of late years that the home supply is totally
inadequate, and hundreds of tons are imported annually, chiefly from the Canary
cand Channel Islands.

The uses of the tomato in cookery are so varied that there seems no limit
to its usefulness. JI venture to say that when the knowledge of its culture is
acquired by our artisans and labourers with gardens in country districts, it
will become an article of daily food among them, and, moreover, as useful
and profitable as the poultry or pig yard. ‘The tomato is one of the easiest
fruits to grow, and also one of the heaviest and most consistent croppers.
Under glass it is quite at home in any position where it can have light and a
small amount of heat. It is quite happy in the cottager’s allotment, green-
house, or even as a window plant.

CULTURE UNDER Grass.—Although I have stated above that it is of easy

193 N

194 THE FRUIT GARDEN

culture, yet it is as true of the tomato as of any other fruit, that if the best results
as regards weight of crop, quality of fruit, &c., are to be had, an intimate knowledge
of its requirements is essential. The tomato will succeed fairly well in any
glass structure, but if new houses are built they should be span-roofed, with the
ends facing north and south, and be in an open position where they will be
exposed to the sun all day. They may be 10 feet wide, with a 2 feet wide
pathway in the middle, and the roof 8 feet high at the apex. They can be
built any desired length, but those 200 feet long are convenient. Plenty of
ventilation is necessary.

WueEn To Becin.—A convenient day on which to commence the cultiva-
tion of the tomato is on New Year’s Day. First place two seeds in a 3-inch
pot, using loam and leaf-soil in equal proportions, passed through a }-inch sieve.
After planting, the seeds should be watered with tepid water, and the soil
covered with a piece of glass; then place them on a shelf in a warm position.
in a house whose temperature is, say, 65 degs. ‘Two seeds are placed in the
pots in case only one grows (if both grow one should be thrown away). Ger-.
mination will take place in the course of a week, and before the young plants.
reach it remove the piece of glass. Keep the seedlings sturdy and strong by
giving them a position near the roof. “Towards the middle or end of January
the small pots will be filled with roots; then the plants should be moved
into those of 5-inch diameter, using loam and leaf-soil as before, except that
now it should be passed through a 1-inch sieve, with just a little bone dust.
Place them deeply in the pots, using enough soil to make the pots only three-.
parts full, reserving space for atop-dressing later. ‘The plants must be returned
to a shelf near the glass in a warm house as before, and left there until they
have rooted freely into the new soil. Then they should be removed to a.
cooler house or pit, and where it is possible to give mere air. The young plants
should still be kept near the glass, the temperature being from 60 to 65 degs. ;
the top-dressing previously mentioned may now be applied. ‘Towards the-
middle or end of February they will have become sturdy plants, and the question
must be decided whether they are to bear fruit in pots or ina border. For the
first early crop I should prefer pots.

Fina, Porrinc.— The size of pot to be used for the final removal
should be 12 inches in diameter, and the soil should consist of three parts fibrous
loam with one part of fresh horse droppings, add a little bone dust, and mix all
well together. The pots should be carefully drained, for large quantities of
water will pass through them; they also should be clean. Place the plant
rather deeply in the pot in order to allow of top-dressing later, when new
roots will be produced from the stem. ‘The house or pit in which the plants.
are to bear fruit should be made ready, and whether lean-to or span-roofed
the best results are obtained early in the year by training the plants to a
trellis near the glass roof. Restrict each plant to a single stem ; this is effected
by cutting out every lateral growth. The stem of the plant need not be
more than 4 or 5 feet long, so that if the house is from 8 to 10 feet wide
it will accommodate two rows of plants each side, or four rows in a span-roofed
house ; the pots may be placed quite close together, thus leaving 12 inches.

TOMATO CULTURE IN POTS IN A MARKET NURSERY.

1

cas “
aaa

TOMATO CULTURE IN BEDS IN A MARKET NURSERY.

THE TOMATO 195

between each plant. The stem may appear rather short; it is, however, long
enough at this early season if care is taken to fertilise every flower which
opens. Having repotted the plants into their fruiting pots, and placed them
in the house where they are to fruit, endeavour to encourage sturdy growth
by the free admission of air. At the same time the temperature of the house
should be kept warm enough to bring about the ripening of the fruits as
early in spring as possible. From plants grown from seed sown on the Ist
of January I have gathered ripe tomatoes in fair quantity towards the
end of March. ‘Tomatoes under glass in quantities are produced with most
difficulty from early in February to the middle of April. They can be had
during this time, but in consequence of growth taking place during the dull
winter months, the quality of the fruits is poor as compared with fruits from
young plants sown in the New Year. ‘This early crop we have been con-
sidering will have ripened, the plants be cleared away, and the house ready for
the next crop by the end of May.
_ SuccesstonaL Crops.—Before we proceed to plant again I would say
that where the fruit is required for home consumption only, the question
of successional crops and an unbroken supply must have due consideration, and
therefore the house in which the plants are grown must be divided into two, or
even three, sections, the second being planted from a month to six weeks after
the first, and the third the same period after the second. By this means a con-
tinued supply is secured throughout the year. As I have said before, tomatoes
can be grown in pots in many odd corners of fruit houses, where they will
succeed very well. We now have to consider planting the early house the
second time, say on the 1st June, and the question arises, shall we grow the
summer crop of tomatoes in pots or planted out? I prefer to plant them in
a border on the floor of the house. I think a heavier crop of fruit is to be
obtained this way with considerably less labour. It is a mistake to suppose
that the tomato requires a large amount of soil to root into. The best
method is first to place a layer of stable litter and leaves mixed together upon
the floor ; this should be about 10 inches or a foot thick when well pressed
down. Upon this place a layer of turf, and then the soil (about 9 inches
deep) in which the plants are to be planted. It should consist of loam three
parts, fresh horse manure one part, with bone dust in the proportion of half a
bag to a cartload. Too plant a house on the 1st June the plants should be at
least 18 inches high, strong and sturdy, with a few fruits set on each. By
having strong plants ready for each successive crop, the productive capacity of
the house is increased by at least one-fourth. The plants should be put in rows
about 15 inches apart, with the same distance between each plant. After
planting they should be secured to stakes, or string fastened to a peg in the
border, and to the trellis near the roof, and tied to these as they grow. ‘The
plants should have a good watering a few hours before they are planted.
GENERAL TREATMENT.—The treatment after planting is very simple,
indeed a repetition of that advised in the case of the first crop, that is, to main-
tain a warm, moist atmosphere, admitting air on all favourable occasions. In
watering, take care not to saturate the soil, especially before the border is well

196 THE FRUIT GARDEN

filled with roots. When the plants are in full bearing a mulch of fresh horse
manure placed upon the border works wonders in improving the fruits.
Manure water (diluted) from the stable-yard, or made with some other fertiliser,
should be given at alternate waterings. It is always best, even in the summer,
to take the chill off the water before using it. Artificial fertilisation of the
flowers is not absolutely necessary to secure a good crop in the summer, yet if
the grower can afford the time it will pay him to do so, as the tomatoes,
instead of averaging four or five fruits to the bunch, will often have six or seven.
A rabbit’s tail tied to the end of a stick is the best thing to use for fertilising the
flower. Nothing is gained by allowing the plants to become very tall, as only
weak growth is made at the top after the plants have been fruiting for some time,
therefore when from 5 to 6 feet high they should be stopped. All laterals must
be taken off close to the stem. Some growers advocate shortening the main
leaves. I prefer to encourage them to a strong and full development except
when the fruits are ripening; the foliage may then be thinned out. During
the season of growth the atmosphere must be made moist by syringing in the
house, but the plants should not be syringed frequently. Planted on June 1,
the tomato plants will be exhausted by the first or second week in September,
and should be cleared out to make room for another lot, which will be in pots
of 12 inches diameter, two plants in each pot.

Lare Tomarors.—These plants should have been grown in cold pits and
have some fruits already formed. ‘They will come into bearing from the middle
of October to the end of January. To continue the supply until April when
the spring-grown fruits are ripe is more difficult. Seeds must be sown towards
the end of August, and the seedlings grown in a cold frame until large
enough for removal to the fruiting pots. ‘They must remain in cold frames, or
in a sunny position out-of-doors, until frost is likely, then remove them to a
temperate house, still giving them plenty of air. ‘They will there make good
growth and set their fruits. It is important to have the fruits formed before
Christmas, so that when placed in a warm house early in January they will
quickly develop and ripen during February, March, and April. ‘Thus we have
shown that it is possible to obtain three satisfactory crops of tomatoes from the
same house in one year. Some growers prefer autumn-sown plants for the first
spring crop instead of those sown on the Ist of January. Seeds are sown in
the middle of October, and the seedlings kept through the winter on shelves
near the glass in a cool house. ‘These should be potted into fruiting pots on
the 1st February. In some seasons they have an advantage over those sown on
the 1st January, but not always, and it is well to have a few plants of each.

VARIETIES FOR CULTURE UNDER GLASS

The varieties now in commerce are innumerable, but the few given below
may be relied upon as being of the best. Great size in the tomato is no recom-
mendation. Fruits of moderate size are best for all purposes.

Red.—F ROGMORE SELECTED.—Certainly one of the best both for cropping, appear-
ance, and quality ; bright red, often conical in shape. F.C.C. R.H.S.

THE TOMATO 197

aes -—Good in every respect. One of the market growers’ favourites. Light
re

CoMET.—This variety commands the readiest sale in London markets at the present
time. It is of medium size, good appearance, quality, and weight ; bright red.

DUKE OF YorK.—A fine exhibition variety ; great cropper, but the fruit is rather
large for general use.

POLEGATE.—A handsome sort much grown for exhibition. Most desirable, but
inclined to become too large.

HAM GREEN FAVOURITE.—A useful, dark red variety. F.C.C. R.H.S.

HACKWOooD PaRK PROLIFIC.—One of the earliest and best. F.C.C. R.H.S.

SuTTON’s PERFECTION.—A well-known standard tomato. Excellent in every
respect ; crimson colour, moderate size. F.C.C. R.H.S,

SuTton’s DESSERT.—This is a deliciously flavoured tomato; where this fruit is
enjoyed as dessert, Sutton’s Dessert should be included. F.C.C. R.H.S.

Yellow.—These are not so popular with the public as the red varieties, though they
are generally admitted to be of superior flavour, especially when uncooked.

VEITCH’S GOLDEN JUBILEE.—This is one of the most handsome and best ; quality,
flavour, and cropping Ley ae being excellent. Rich orange tinged sometimes with
red; medium size. F.C.C. R

Sutton’s GOLDEN orn —Very prolific, the fruit produced in clusters of thirty
or more. Succeeds well out-of-doors or under glass. F.C.C. R.H.S.

GREENGAGE.—A small golden variety of good quality.

CHISWICK PEacH. A distinct variety of medium size, the colour much resembling
that of a peach.

TOMATO CULTURE OUT-OF-DOORS

The cultivation of the tomato in warm positions on walls out-of-doors has
been successfully practised in British gardens for a number of years, but its
culture in the open garden and the field is still restricted. When better
understood, and hardier varieties have been introduced, this will open a field
for the development of a profitable industry. It is important to bear
in mind that when planted outside the tomato plant occupies the ground
but for a very short time, say from early June to the middle of October,
only some four months, so that every condition likely to favour rapid
growth and maturity must be taken advantage of. The first and one of
the most important of these is the position and quality of the land. This
should be warm and dry and fully exposed to the sun. It is useless to attempt
outdoor tomato culture in heavy, cold soil, The ground should be
trenched and heavily manured during the previous winter or spring. It is futile
to expect a heavy and well-ripened crop from poor land, and this has been one
of the chief causes of failure in the past. Having satisfied ourselves that the
condition of the land is in every way suitable, our next duty will be to see that
the plants are in the best possible condition for planting when the time arrives
for this work to be carried out (early in June). ‘They should be sturdy, not
less than 14 to 2 feet high, and with at least one bunch of fruit already set.
Cold frames or pits with a covering of glass are necessary to grow the plants.

PREPARING THE PLants.—The seeds should be sown at the end of March
in pans or boxes and placed ina warm frame near the glass. If the grower does
not possess a frame or house which is artificially heated he should make a small

198 THE FRUIT GARDEN

hot-bed on which to place the frame. This will do well for raising the young
plants. As soon as large enough to handle, pot singly into 3-inch pots and
replace them in the warm frame, keeping them there until well rooted, say for
about a fortnight. Then remove them into a cool frame and give them rather
more space. “They should still be kept warm even in the frame by giving
but little air for some time and closing early in the afternoon. “The temperature
may rise to 70 or 75 degs, for a few hours. Cover the frame with mats or
some other material at night. When the plants are about 5 inches high and
have filled their pots with roots they should be potted into 6-inch pots. Use
soil consisting of ordinary loam three parts and one part of light manure or
leaf mould passed through a #-inch sieve, with a sprinkling of lime or soot.
They must afterwards be given more room.

CuLtrurE.—For the first week after the second potting they should be kept
fairly warm until the roots have taken hold of the new soil. ‘Then more air
must be admitted and the plants grown as hardily as possible, but never allowing
the temperature to fall below 40 degs. ‘Towards the end of April and during
May the lights may be taken off the frames altogether for a few hours each day
when the weather is warm and bright. ‘Towards the end of May the plants
ought to be showing flower, and if the frames are wanted for some other
purpose, temporary shelter must be provided in some place out-of-doors. ‘This
may be made by driving stakes into the ground at distances of 6 feet apart and
tying mats to them to form sides, and for a covering nail a lath to the top of
the stakes crossways upon which mats can be placed at night. Do not plant
in the open quarters too soon, as the tomato is a tender plant; exposure on a
frosty night will cripple them for the season. Do not plant out before the
10th to the 16th of June; I have found this to be the best time.

PLantinc.—Plant in rows 2 feet apart, with the same distance from plant
to plant, and when the ground is in a suitable condition, neither very wet nor
dry. Make the soil firm around each plant by treading. Stout stakes about
4% feet high should be provided, to which the plants must be secured as they
grow. Do not let the stems grow higher than 3 or 4 feet, as fruits which may
form above that height will not ripen. ‘The side shoots or laterals should be
cut out close to the stem as they appear, so that the whole energy of the plant
may be directed towards developing fruit.

AFTER TREATMENT.—A good watering must be given after planting, and
the precaution taken to moisten the roots before. It will be difficult to do so
thoroughly afterwards. If the weather is dry immediately after planting, water
the plants occasionally until they are well rooted. When this is the case a
mulching of short manure should be given. ‘The ground must be kept free
of weeds by hoeing, the laterals stopped, and occasional waterings given during
dry weather. It will take 10,890 plants to plant an imperial acre at 2 feet
apart. Each plant should yield 3 lbs. of ripe fruit at a low estimate, and the
price per !b. should average 2d., the best would be 3d. or more. This would
give a return of £272 per acre, or at least a clear {100 profit after all expenses
were paid. I do not know of another crop capable of yielding such a rich
return from the land in so short a time.

THE TOMATO 199

GATHERING AND PackiING THE Frurr.—Towards the end of July some of
the earliest fruits will show signs of ripening. They must be gathered before
they are quite ripe and placed in cold frames (with the lights on) on a dry
bottom, one layer deep only, and exposed to the sun. Admit plenty of air.
This treatment will greatly improve the quality and colour of the fruits. A
week’s exposure will be long enough. ‘They will then be in condition for
market or home use. The fruits should be sorted into at least two qualities,
and towards the end of the season perhaps three, when some of the latest fruits
will be of inferior quality and suitable only for the manufacture of sauce. The
first quality, which should be of one size and good colour, must be packed
separately, and these ought to realise top prices, "The second quality, smaller and
of less attractive appearance, should bring little less than 2d. per lb. Strong
cross-handle baskets, holding from 12 to 20 lbs., are most satisfactory for packing
tomatoes in for carriage by road or rail. The fruit should be looked over at
least every other day while ripening, and, as I said before, gathered some days
before it is ripe. When despatched to market it must be firm and solid, or it
will get bruised in transit and its value depreciated.

Where walls or palings are available much better crops can be had ; indeed,
I have had as heavy crops from low walls facing south out-of-doors, as I have
had from under glass. I believe that the better return from the tomato when
planted against a warm wall or fence would soon compensate the grower for
the cost of its erection, and prove an excellent investment. When the plants
are planted against walls or fences the border must be well manured, and
more water given than when they are in the open.

VarIeETIES.—These must be limited to the medium-sized ones. Sutton’s
Open Air is one of the hardiest and best for this purpose; its fruits set well,
and grow to a good size. “They are, however, slightly corrugated, a fact that
somewhat lessens their market value. Chemin and Comet are both excellent.
Frogmore Prolific has succeeded well with me in the open, and it is one of the
most handsome, and consequently a good one to sell. Sutton’s Early Market :
one of the best for market, and well suited for growing out-of-doors. Dickson’s
Early Ruby : this is a variety that sets its fruit freely, crops heavily, and is of
attractive appearance.

Go_pEn VaRIETIES.—These are more tender, do not succeed so well out-
of-doors, and therefore are not often planted. Golden Jubilee is one of the
hardiest and best.

ORNAMENTAL Fruitinc Tomators.—T he Red and Yellow Cherry and the
Currant are among the best of these. When grown in pots they are very
decorative and useful. At the end of the season there will be some small and
unripe fruits left. If placed in slight heat they will ripen, or they may be
made into sauce or tomato chutney.

TOMATO CULTURE UNDER GLASS FOR MARKET

The culture of the tomato under glass for commercial purposes has now
assumed enormous dimensions both in England and in the Channel Islands.

200 THE FRUIT GARDEN

The first thing is to consider how the best results can be produced at the least
possible cost. Past experience has shown that this can be brought about best
by adopting at least three systems of culture. First, in combination with that
of the chrysanthemum ; secondly, with the vine ; and lastly, the culture of the
tomato alone. The first system is the most general, and prevails to a large
extent among growers of tomatoes for market. Chrysanthemums occupy the
houses in winter, and tomatoes in summer.

Tue Hovuses.—These may be of various sizes. For summer crops houses
21 feet wide are convenient, and the length may be anything from 100 to 300
feet. The side walls of these houses should be at least 4 feet, and the apices
12 feet high. For early and winter crops smaller houses are best. Those
12 feet wide and 8 feet high at the apex are convenient, and if sunk in the
ground a couple of feet, an advantage in the way of warmth will be secured.
Winter and spring tomatoes are best grown in pots, and trained to a trellis
near the roof. As I said before the question of economy must be well considered,
and there is no aspect of the question more important than the houses. To
those proposing to embark in this business who are not familiar with the work,
let me impress upon them the importance of first visiting a successful grower’s
establishment, of which there are many within easy reach of London, especially
at Finchley on one side, and at Hampton-on-Thames and Twickenham on the
other. There they will see the best methods of construction, ventilation, and
heating, and also the system of culture in favour among market growers.

Posirion oF THE HousEs.—The position should be well exposed to the
south-and west, and protected, if possible, from cold north and east winds by
hedges planted not too near the houses. The question of soil is a very
important one, when we come to determine where to erect the houses. If
the land is not of good quality and fair depth, then its value is much dis-
counted, for if we build houses on poor land money must be spent in pro-
viding good soil. ‘The question of drainage is also an important one. If the
land is not well drained, this will be the first work to attend to, as without
effective drainage successful cultivation is impossible. New houses should be
completed early in April; the grower will then have the season before him
in which to grow and market profitable crops before it is time to fill the houses
with chrysanthemums for winter.

PREPARING THE SoIL.—If the land on which the houses are built is under
turf, this should be taken off 4 inches thick, and carefully stacked in some
convenient place. This will be invaluable afterwards. After the turf is
taken off, the ground should be bastard-trenched 18 or 24 inches. (In
bastard-trenching the subsoil is not brought to the surface, but simply dug
up and left in the same position.) Add well-decayed manure. Planting should
not be done immediately after trenching ; the land is too soft. When the
plants are planted the soil should be moderately dry, and be firmly pressed
round the plants with the feet. “This is important. If tomatoes are planted in
loose soil, partial failure will be sure to follow. The floor of the house should
be planted ; the only paths will be those between the rows.

PLantinc.—The usual practice in large houses is to plant a double row of

THE TOMATO 201

plants, the rows and the plants being 1 foot apart ; a space of 2 feet is left
between the next double row. Thus throughout the houses there are double
rows of plants with a 2 feet wide pathway between. About as many plants are
used as if they were planted 18 inches apart all through the house, but the
above method provides for more convenient working. We will suppose that
the house is ready for planting the last week in April, that the plants are
from 12 to 18 inches high, strong and sturdy, and with the first fruits formed.
For the production of these plants seeds should be sown early in January.
The number of plants to be grown will be governed by the number and
extent of the houses to be planted. As soon as planting is over each plant
should be staked or attached to upright strings. If the plants then receive a
good soaking of water, they will not give much trouble for some time. Little
or no fire heat will be required in the daytime, but at night the temperature
should not fall below 55 degs. On bright sunny days air may be admitted
freely, consistent with maintaining an atmosphere of from 65 to 70 degs. in
the middle of the day. Exercise care not to over-water the plants at any time,
but especially so immediately after planting.

GENERAL ‘TREATMENT.—When a good set of fruit is secured and the
border filled with roots, then water must be given in more abundance and
manure water at every other application. Liquid manure from the farmyard
is the best stimulant to use, but frequently this is difficult to procure, and a
substitute must be found in some artificial manure of good repute. Until
plenty of fruits are formed, air must be liberally admitted, and in order that
every flower that opens should be converted into a fruit, let the grower go over
the plants at midday with a rabbit's tail, and draw it over each flower. He
will find the crop much improved by assisting fertilisation, When the fruits
are formed the temperature of the house may be raised, especially in the after-
noon after closing. When the air is moist after a liberal syringing, 80 or 85
degs. for an hour or two will be none too high. At least twice a week cut
off lateral shoots, restricting the plants to one stem only. When the plants
have been bearing some time and a good portion of the crop is gathered, a
top-dressing of rich soil will much help to strengthen the plants and prolong
their fertility. By the end of the summer the plants will be 8 or 9 feet high.
They should then be stopped, for any fruit which might afterwards form
would not be worth waiting for; rather let the grower do his best to assist
those already “set” by the time the house is wanted for chrysanthemums—
towards the end of September. How many pounds of fruit a tomato plant
is capable of producing in the course of a season is difficult to say, and would
scarcely be answered by two growers alike. Upwards of 20 lbs. per plant
have occasionally been reported, but this is quite exceptional, and if the grower
can average 8 lbs. he should be well satisfied. If the price averages 24d. per
lb. for the season, the return from each plant (at 18 inches apart) would be
1s. 8d.; and as an acre of land takes nearly 20,000 plants at this distance, the
curious can easily find out for themselves the return to be expected from an
acre of land covered with glass.

Tomato Culture IN THE VINERY.—It is when vineries are newly planted

202 THE FRUIT GARDEN

that the tomato is useful in providing cash returns for the first two or three
years before the vines prove remunerative. ‘The inside vine border may be
planted with tomatoes, say at 14 to 2 feet apart, the first week in May, and the
treatment necessary for the successful culture of the young vines after this
time will suit the tomato plants admirably, and when the growth of the vine is
completed for the season, and the vinery is kept open night and day, then
also will the tomatoes be over for the summer season. The aid of the tomato in
the vinery will be requisitioned again in the same way the second year, and in
a less degree the third year also; after then the vines will monopolise both
borders and roof.

Houses Devorep ENTIRELY TO THE Tomato.—Where it is desired to have
English-grown tomatoes all the year round, a small house of the dimensions of
the one mentioned at first should be provided, and divided into three sections
with ample provision for artificial heating. Instructions how to succeed in
maintaining a succession all the year round need not be repeated here, as they
have been fully given. The supplies of tomatoes during winter and early
spring from the Canary Islands and other sources are so plentiful that it is hope-
less for the English grower to compete at those seasons with the least prospect
of success. One of our largest growers assured me that if he could be sure of
securing 4s. per lb. he would not be tempted to embark upon the hazardous
business of growing tomatoes for winter and early spring, when crops would
be light and fuel dear, so that as a commercial undertaking this aspect of
the question is not worth further consideration.

Tomators 1n Pors,—Many growers find a remunerative market for ripe
tomatoes during May and early June. The quality of the English-grown fruit
is so much superior to the imported article that it fetches a better price, and
recoups the grower for the extra expense entailed in its production at this
comparatively early season. Plants intended to furnish these crops are obtained
by sowing the seed early in October and growing the seedlings in an inter-
mediate temperature through the autumn and winter, taking care to fertilise
every flower as it appears. ‘Towards the end of February or the first week in
March they should be transferred into their fruiting pots (12-inch) and trained
up the roof, If care is taken to fertilise the flowers as they open, a prolific and
profitable crop will be the result.

Wire-worms are often very troublesome. ‘The best way to get rid of them
is by distributing pieces of carrot over the ground. Wire-worms are very fond
of these, and collect upon them in large numbers; they are then easily
destroyed by burning. Of varieties, Chemin Rouge and Comet are the two
best for market culture. To secure the best fruit save your own seed from
the finest tomatoes grown during the season, bearing in mind that the fruit
should be heavy, of medium size, regular form, and attractive colour.

Tomato CULTURE UNDER Grass wiTHOUT Fire Heat.—lIn the Islands
of Guernsey and Jersey acres of glass are devoted to tomato culture with no
artificial heat, but the conditions there are more favourable to this method than
is the case in Britain. Still, this system is carried out on a large scale in some
districts near London. I have visited one where twenty houses, covering ten

THE TOMATO 203

acres of land, are planted with tomatoes. Each house covers half-an-acre of
land, ten of them are heated with hot water, and ten not heated at all. Both
the heated and unheated houses produce two crops a year ; the heated ones
producing two crops of tomatoes, and the unheated ones one crop of tomatoes
and one of cabbages. It will be news to many readers, I have no doubt, to
hear that cabbages are grown under glass by the acre in England.

The system of culture is as follows :—Early in October the cool houses
are planted with cabbages raised from seed sown the first week of the previous
August, the land being manured and dug in the ordinary way. Little or no
attention is necessary until cutting commences early in April, continuing until
May, when all the crop has been disposed of.

Immediately the cabbages are disposed of, trenches are dug out 4 feet apart
and 18 inches wide, into which some new soil and a moderate dressing of
manure are placed, digging all together some time before planting. A double
row of plants, at 10 inches apart, is planted in the trench. When the plants
have established themselves and are well furnished with fruits, the ridge
between the trenches may be levelled into these as a top-dressing for the
plants. Heavy crops of fruit are secured in this way at comparatively small
cost—watering, collecting, and marketing the fruit being the chief items of
labour. In December the tomatoes will be almost over, and it will be time
again to plant the cabbages. ‘The reason for adopting the plan of growing in
trenches is that deep digging and a change of soil for the crop are thereby assured ;
the ground that forms the trenches one year will form the ridges next, and so
on. ‘The stronger the plants when planted out at the end of April and early in
May, the better will be the result. Seeds are sown the last week in January.
Comet is the only variety grown at the establishment in question.

The method adopted in the ten houses, covering 5 acres, which are heated
is different. Here, all the plants are grown in pots, the first fruits ripening
from April until June. The pots are then filled with other strong young
plants, and they in their turn will yield heavy and remunerative crops until late
in the autumn or early winter, when it is no longer remunerative to grow
English tomatoes because of the heavy importations of fruit from abroad. Seed
for the earliest crop is sown the last week in October, the plants are grown
during the winter in 5 or 6-inch pots, and placed in their fruiting pots
(12-inch) about the middle of February. ‘The seeds for supplying the second
lot (to be planted at the end of June) should be sown the first week in April.
The plants are all grown on the single-stem system, and stopped when 4 feet
high. The reason for this is that the best fruit is formed on the lower part of
the stem.

Sort Dirricuttizs.—When the same crop is cultivated continuously upon a
limited area of land, it is not surprising that growers are, before long, confronted
with soil sickness, and as a consequence the plants show diminished vitality,
are liable to disease, and therefore unremunerative ; thus we see the advantage
of the pot system of culture, when fresh soil can be given to each plant.
Two heavy crops during the summer may also be had from pot plants, and this
cannot be easily accomplished under the planting-out system.

204 THE FRUIT GARDEN

How To Secure a Suppty oF WaTeER.—An abundant supply of water is
most essential to successful tomato culture under glass. An economical method
is to build a tank at the lower end of the block of houses into which all the
rain which falls on the roofs may drain. A tower must be built (on which
to fix the tank), high enough to give the necessary pressure for expeditious
watering. A pump worked by hand, or by whatever power decided on (this
will depend on the size of the establishment), would have to be fixed for
pumping the water to the top of the tower. It need scarcely be said how
much better in every way, and how much more conducive to the success of
garden crops of all sorts, is rain than spring water. “Therefore, means should
be provided to save all that falls upon the roofs. When this supply is inade-
quate, and no other source available, a well must be sunk.

Tomato, THE TREE (see p. 212).

CHAPTER XVIII

TROPICAL FRUITS AND HOW TO GROW THEM

By W. WATSON

In this chapter it is proposed to call attention to certain fruits of recognised
value in tropical countries, but which have not hitherto found much favour
with cultivators in this country, although their management is well within the
means of the grower of forced peaches, grapes, melons, pineapples, figs, &c.
Such plants as the mangosteen and durian, two of the most famous of tropical
fruit trees, are omitted, because they are practically beyond our skill. A well-
finished house of mangoes, custard apples, bananas, or oranges would surely be
as creditable and useful as some of the fruits that are grown now. ‘The ex-
pense incurred in the production of fruits and flowers is not always a primary
consideration. Many of those we grow could be bought for less than it costs
to produce them at home. There is, however, the satisfaction, one might say
pride, of accomplishing some difficult feat of cultivation, which is sufficient
reward, and it is this spirit that enables English horticulturists to overcome
difficulties which would probably deter those influenced only by considerations
of profit and loss.

THE CITRUS FAMILY

The genus Citrus comprises seven species, three of which yield fruits of
commercial value, namely C’.. medica, forms of which are known as the citron,
the lemon, and the lime; C. decumana, the shaddock, pumelo or grape fruit ;
and C, Aurantium, the type of all the oranges proper. Although found either
wild or cultivated in most tropical and sub-tropical regions, the various forms of
Citrus had, according to Sir Joseph Hooker, an Eastern origin, and the fore-
fathers of the orange, the lemon, and the lime may be found in the hot valleys
of the Himalaya, of the mountainous districts of Eastern Bengal, and of the
Deccan. The cultivation of oranges and lemons is now an enormous industry
in countries both west and east. It would therefore be absurd to recommend
their production in Britain as sources of profit, although they can be grown to
perfection at no greater an outlay than is required to grow first-class forced
peaches.

The lemon, orange, and less commonly the shaddock are grown sometimes
as decorative plants, their fruits being allowed to remain on the trees as long as
they will hang, by which time they are dry and unpalatable. But cultivators

at home have shown that English-grown oranges are superb as dessert fruits.
205

206 THE FRUIT GARDEN

The value of the flowers, which are always in demand for weddings, is also an
item that deserves passing mention. The varieties worth cultivating for their
fruits are :—

ORANGES

BLOOD OR MALTA.—Fruit large, with a thin and rather smooth skin ; Ju// stained
with crimson, very juicy and sweet.

ST. MICHAEL’S.—This is the most commonly cultivated for market, and it varies in
quality according to the conditions under which it is grown and the variety. The best
forms are known as Exquisite, Dulcissima, Silver Sustain, and Egg.

TANGERINE.—Fvuit small, compressed; skin easily removed and peculiarly aro-
matic; pulp juicy and very sweet. All the forms of this are excellent, one of the best
being that known as St. Michael’s.

NAVEL.—/7vuzt large, egg-shaped, with a nipple-like projection at one end; skin
thin; p/p pale in colour, very juicy and sweet.

Jarra.—Fruzt large; skin generally thick; pu/p juicy, and when the fruits have
been left long enough to mature before being gathered, pleasantly sweet.

SEVILLE.-—Fruzt large; skim thick; Zu/p acid and not sweet. Grown for the manu-
facture of marmalade. A free-flowering variety.

LEMONS

Bijou.—Fruzt small, globose, juicy, aromatic, slightly bitter as well as acid; tree
dwarf and fruitful. Seems to be intermediate between the Jemon and the lime.

IMPERIAL.—/7vuzt large, juicy, aromatic; tree vigorous and free.

SWEET OR BRAZILIAN.—Remarkable in being almost devoid of the acidity charac-
teristic of lemons.

METFORD’s.—Fruzt as large as an ostrich’s egg; s#i smooth, pale yellow; pulp
juicy and superior. An excellent lemon for culinary purposes; in the size of the leaf,
flowers, and fruit it resembles a shaddock, but it is a true lemon.

LimE.—The true lime is a thorny shrub with ovate leaves, white flowers, small,
nearly globose, yellow fruit with thin skin, and an abundance of pure acid juice. It is
largely grown in the West Indies, and is the principal source of citric acid, so largely
employed for flavouring and as a summer beverage. The best forms are known as
bitter, sweet, and Persian.

SHADDOCK.—This is also known as the forbidden fruit, pumelo or pomalo, and
grape fruit. The largest fruited forms are sturdy trees, with large leathery leaves, very
thick petalled flowers, and oblong fruit as large as an ostrich’s egg, or nearly globose ;
skin thick and rather coarse; /éesh in coarse, bladder-like grains, pale, watery, and
lacking both sweetness and acidity. The variety known as grape fruit is about the size
of a swan’s egg, has smooth skin, and the flesh is slightly bitter and aromatic. It is
largely eaten in the United States as a morning tonic.

CuttivatTion.—As in the case of apples and other cultivated fruits, the
forms of oranges and lemons cannot be relied upon to come true from seeds..
Grafted plants must therefore be secured. ‘They may be grown in pots or tubs
of about the same proportions in relation to the plants as camellias, or they may
be planted out in a border exactly as for peaches or vines, In either case they
prefer good fibrous loam, which should be periodically enriched with top-dressings
of manure—preferably sheep or deer dung—applied in March. When in
growth they require plenty of moisture both at the root and overhead; while
resting in winter the soil should be kept just moist. Plants wintered in a low
temperature will not require any water from about November till March.
Where a house can be devoted entirely to the cultivation of oranges it should

(ozs wwe) CEA ALINE AP SOMLIO) HONEMNO THAPN THE

‘zis oanwwn) “(PLFPOINAMW VNONP) ATdd¥ GYPISND FHL

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TROPICAL FRUITS 207

be spacious, well glazed, and ventilated as for forced peaches. The border
should occupy the whole area and be deep, well drained, with about 2 feet of
good loamy soil. In this the trees can be planted at suitable distances apart
and treated as ordinary orchard-house trees. Fan-trained trees may occupy the
sides or walls of the house.

The trees require careful pruning so as to obtain short sturdy wood and an
open form of tree, better results being thus obtained than from trees allowed to
grow dense. Strong woody shoots, if not required to build up the framework
of the tree, should be cut out, or, better still, they should be stopped early to
prevent waste.

Oranges require all the sunshine they can get. It is a good plan to start
the house early, say the first week in March, by maintaining a temperature of
from 50 to 70 degs., the latter with sun-heat ; from May onwards the tem-
perature may be 10 or 15 degs. higher than this. A good syringing twice a
day should be given. ‘The plants must be kept free of insects, and with this
object some growers syringe them once a week with a weak solution of paraffin.

If the plants are grown in pots or tubs they require the same treatment as
those planted out, but of course close attention must be given to the condition
of the soil. Half-inch bones and old mortar mixed with the soil serve to keep
the latter open and also afford nourishment. Plants that have grown too large
or become leggy and unsightly may be reduced and renovated by cutting them
back in the spring and keeping them close and moist for a few weeks. This
induces them to break freely.

CUSTARD APPLE

The custard apple is the fruit of 4nona squamosa, a magnolia-like bush or
small tree about 15 feet high, copiously branched, and clothed with leathery
oblong leaves, glaucous beneath, in the axils of which are borne in spring
solitary greenish fleshy flowers about 1 inch across. “The fruit is egg-shaped,
3 inches or 4 inches long, and is composed of a number of scale-like ovaries,
which are confluent and form a fruit suggestive of a globe artichoke or a pine-
cone. When ripe it is fleshy, the pulp yellowish, and so soft that it is difficult
to handle a ripe fruit without squashing it. ‘The flavour has been likened to
that of raspberries and cream. In tropical countries the custard apple is a
favourite fruit. Although originally from tropical America, it is now wild or
cultivated in both hemispheres. In India it ranks with the mango as a culti-
vated fruit, ripening in May. Imported fruits must necessarily be gathered
long before they are ripe. The trees are propagated from seeds, and they grow
so rapidly that they begin to fruit when about three years old.

There is a tradition in India that the god Ram and his wife Sita decided
each to create a fruit that should excel all others. Ram produced the Ramphal
(phal= fruit), or bullock’s heart (Anona reticulata), and Sita the Sitaphal, or
custard apple (4. squamosa). The former is not considered palatable by
Europeans, although it is eaten by the natives. In the West Indies another

208 THE FRUIT GARDEN

species (4. reticulata) is called the custard apple, while 4. squamasa is known
as the sweet-sop.

Custard apple, or sweet-sop, is a fruit of first-rate quality for dessert, and one
that can only be obtained in anything like perfection in this country from
home-grown trees. It has been successfully fruited in a few gardens here, but
only casually. There is, therefore, an excellent opportunity for some enthusiast
to distinguish himself by devoting a house to its cultivation. There is no
doubt that it can be done successfully, because plants grown in pots under
ordinary stove treatment and without any particular attention, flower annually,
and now and then ripen fruits. House, soil, and conditions generally ought to
be the same as for forced peaches. Bullock’s heart has long smooth leaves,
flowers two or three together, and sub-globose fruit with a rough exterior.
It is not worth growing except by the curious, but care must be observed
that it is not taken in error for the custard apple, as it bears this name in
the West Indies.

A. Cherimolia (the cherimoya) has small ovate fruits, which are eaten by
Creoles, and are good enough to find favour with some Europeans. Fruits
produced a year or two ago in the palm-house at Kew were delicious in flavour.
A. muricata (the sour-sop), has large green prickly fruit of medicinal value
only.

PERSIMMON, or DATE-PLUM

Diospyros Kaki, the persimmon, or date-plum, is an Eastern tree which for
centuries has been cultivated in China and Japan for its fruits. It is scarcely
known in English gardens, although it has been cultivated for many years in
Southern Europe. It forms a bushy tree, very similar to the apple, and is
deciduous ; the leaves are oblong, rather leathery, and about 5 inches long ;
they assume brilliant colours in autumn. ‘The flowers (female) are green, an
inch in diameter, and are borne singly in the axils of the leaves. ‘The fruits
ripen in late autumn, and remain long on the tree after the leaves have fallen.
They vary in size and flavour almost as much as apples; in colour they are
usually bright scarlet. The male and female flowers are borne on separate
plants, and the varieties are propagated by grafting. Most, if not all, the
cultivated plants we have are females. The ovaries swell to full size without
having been fertilised, but the fruits are seedless. Fruits matured in a sunny
greenhouse at Kew were as large as a Ribston Pippin apple, and when ripe
were as red, soft, and juicy as a ripe tomato.

It would appear that the conditions most suitable for the persimmon are
what we term sub-tropical. It is not likely to be hardy anywhere in England,
except in the warmer parts, although fruits have been ripened on a plant grown
against a wall in Canon Ellacombe’s garden at Bitton. So far as Kew experi-
ments have gone, the conditions most congenial to this plant are those of the
agave house. Here it is planted out in a border of loamy soil in a position
where it gets plenty of summer sunshine and air, while in winter the atmos-
phere is dry and the temperature never below 50 degs. The pruning of this
plant is identical with that recommended for peaches. In Japan the trees are

TROPICAL FRUITS 209

never pruned with a knife, the belief being that iron causes injury to the
branches ; they are therefore thinned by breaking with the hand. The soil
most suitable for the persimmon is loam, and a top-dressing of manure
should be given annually, say in March. Night soil is used in Japan for this
purpose.

Professor Sargent, in his “Forest Flora of Japan” (1893), says: “The
persimmon is planted everywhere in the neighbourhood of houses, which, in
the interior of the main island, are often embowered in small groves of this
handsome tree. In shape it resembles a well-grown apple tree, with a straight
trunk, spreading branches which droop toward the extremities and form a
compact round head. ‘Trees 30 to 40 feet high are often seen, and in the
autumn when they are covered with fruit, and the leaves have turned to the
colour of old Spanish red leather, they are exceedingly handsome.

“Perhaps there is no tree, except the orange, which as a fruit tree is so
beautiful as the Kaki. In Central and Northern Japan the variety which pro-
duces large, orange-coloured, ovate, thick-skinned fruit is the only one planted,
and the cultivation of the red-fruited varieties with which we have become
acquainted in this country is confined to the south. A hundred varieties of
Kaki at least are now recognised and named by Japanese gardeners, but few of
them are important commercially in any part of the country which we visited,
and, except in Kyoto, where red Kakis appeared, the only form I saw exposed
for sale was the orange-coloured variety, which, fresh and dried, is consumed in
immense quantities by the Japanese, who eat it, as they do all their fruits,
before it is ripe, and while it has the texture and consistency of a paving-stone !

“ Diospyros Kaki is hardy in Pekin, with a climate similar to that of New
England, and fully as trying to plant-life; it fruits in Southern Yezo, and
decorates every garden in the elevated provinces of Central Japan, where the
winter climate is intensely cold. There appears, therefore, to be no reason
why it should not flourish in New England, if plants of a northern race can be
obtained ; and, so far as climate is concerned, the tree, which in the central
mountain districts of Hondo covers itself with fruit year after year, will certainly
succeed in all our Alleghany region from Pennsylvania southward. In this
country (United States) we have considered the Kaki a tender plant, unable to
survive outside the region where the orange flourishes. This is true of the
southern varieties which have been brought to this country, and which may
have originated in a milder climate than southern Japan, for the Kaki is a plant
of wide distribution, either natural or through cultivation in south-eastern
Asia. But the northern Kaki, the tree of Pekin and the gardens of central
Japan, has probably not yet been tried in this country. If it succeeds in the
northern and middle states it will give us a handsome new fruit of good quality,
easily and cheaply raised, of first-rate shipping quality when fresh, valuable when
dried, and an ornamental tree of extraordinary interest and beauty.”

The names of the varieties are Japanese. The following is a selection :—

HacHliya.—Produced at Hachiya, in the province of Mino. Frut very large,
oblong, pointed, a little flattened at the base ; sz rich red, black at the end when quite
ripe ;_ flesh when bletted juicy, very rich, delicious in flavour.

10)

210 THE FRUIT GARDEN

Ko-TsuURU.—f/ruit small, oblong, pointed at the end, orange-yellow. It begins

to ripen early in August, but is not quite ripe till September. Inferior in quality, yet
is esteemed for earliness.

KUMOSU-MARU.—fruzt medium size; skim yellowish-orange, black cobweb-like

mark appearing on the apex when quite ripe; flesh rich in flavour. Ripens from the
middle to the end of November.

SHIMO-MARU.—f7wit roundish-oblong, somewhat four-sided. It loses its astringent
property early in September and changes to a yellowish colour, ripening entirely after
exposure to frost and changing to reddish-orange. /¥Vesh juicy, crisp, and of excellent

uality.
‘ TSUNO-MAGARI.—/ruzt roundish, pointed, somewhat four-sided at the stem; skzn
light reddish yellow ; seedless. It retains its astringency even when quite ripe.

TSURU-NO-KO.—Fruzt medium, oblong, pointed, bright red with black marks on the

apex when quite ripe; flesh dull red, spotted with purplish black dots, sweet, rich in
flavour. Ripens in October.

MANGO

The mango (Mangifera indica) is, par excellence, the fruit of the tropics.
Originally a native of India, it has become widely distributed wherever the
conditions are suitable. It has been termed the peach of the tropics, and
the descriptions given of first-rate mango fruits by those who have tasted them
make one’s mouth water. All attempts to import ripe mangoes into England
have so far failed. To enjoy them we must therefore either go to the tropics or
master their cultivation at home. I have never heard of any serious effort to
grow mangoes in this country. It is true that fruits have been produced on
plants cultivated at Kew and in several other gardens, but they satisfied no
one. The tree grows to a large size—‘‘trunks 30 to 40 feet high and
10 to 15 feet in circumference”? — but it may be kept much smaller than
this. The plant which fruits at Kew is only some 8 feet high. It appears to
require the same treatment as an apple or pear, except that the temperature
must be tropical, or at least sub-tropical. It likes manure, plenty of it, and
a loamy, deep soil. According to Woodrow, in whose book, “Gardening in
India,” there is an excellent account of the mango, bones in any form are good
for the trees, and an annual dressing of salt, as much as 10 lbs. to each big tree,
is given in October or November to encourage the formation of flower-buds.

There are many varieties, as many as of apples, according to Woodrow,
and they are as different in size, flavour, and value. The best are excel-
lent. ‘They are all grafted, a seedling mango being of as doubtful merit as
a seedling apple. The best sorts recommended by Woodrow are Alphonse,
Pirie, Pakria, Punhala, Borsha, Mulgoba, Banchore, and Massarata. In addition
to these, he recommends and enumerates many other varieties. His description
of Alphonse is worth quoting: “Universally admitted to be the finest of all
mangoes. In flavour its fruit is indescribable ; it seems to be a subtle blending
of all agreeable flavours. In weight it averages 8 ounces; its colour is green,
with a rich crimson glow on the exposed side ; its shape is oblong, thickened at
the upper end without any stigmatic point or beak. ‘The variety is to be recog-
nised when not in fruit by the bright red midrib of its leaves. The tree is
stunted or irregular, rarely forming a shapely specimen.”

A BUNCH OF MANGOES. (Average size of Fruit 34 by 3 inches.)

nn)

CMF A

PNP NQOGd

SOYLIO) LLAMA FIVUOD

FHL

TROPICAL FRUITS 215

Plants of the best mangoes can be purchased in India for about 2s. each, and
they are easily sent to England in a Wardian case, as has been recently shown
by the collections obtained for Trinidad from Calcutta, and which were trans-
ported wi@ Kew. The cost of a house suitable for their cultivation would not
be greater than that of a large peach-house or vinery, and the labour of cultiva-
tion certainly no more than that of forced peaches. A house filled with mangoes
in fruit would be highly creditable, especially as it might be the means of adding
to the list of English dessert fruits another which in flavour and quality is unlike
any fruit we have.

BANANA

Bananas are largely consumed by the inhabitants of tropical countries,
being excellent food. They are also now a popular article of food in tem-
perate countries, large quantities of them being imported all the year round
from the West Indies and the Canary Islands for consumption in the British
Islands. They are cheap, conveniently portable, and so wholesome that they
will soon rival, if they do not surpass, the orange and even the apple for general
use among all classes.

The imported banana, from the fact that it has to be cut before it is ripe,
and for other reasons, is necessarily inferior in quality to fruit that has been
allowed to mature on the plant. Consequently high-class bananas can only be
obtained in this country from home-grown plants. A good banana is one of
the most enjoyable of fruits. At Kew and in a few other large gardens in
England where they can be conveniently cultivated they are grown to per-
fection. There are numerous varieties, varying in size from g inches in length
by 3 inches in diameter to dainty little thin-skinned fruits no bigger than a
man’s thumb. ‘They are either angular or smooth and regular, their colour is
either yellow or russet-red, and their flesh resembles that of a ripe apricot in
colour and mellowness or is pale yellow and less juicy. Some sorts are said to
be of a bright green colour when ripe. There are about forty species of Musa,
only few of which have edible fruits, the best of these being AZ. sapientum, of
which there are many varieties, and AZ. Cavendishii or chinensis, the Chinese
banana. The plantain is distinguished only by having fruits that require
cooking to be palatable. The best of those tried at Kew are Champa, Medji,
Raja, Ramkela, Guindy, Arracan, Martaban, and Ladies’ Finger. Other sorts
have recently been obtained from the Malay Archipelago and are being tested
at Kew and also in the West Indies. The Chinese banana is the principal
variety grown in the Canary Islands; it is also a favourite with English
cultivators, because of its comparatively dwarf stature and the enormous size
of its bunch of fruits, weighing nearly a hundredweight and bearing about two
hundred and fifty “ fingers” (fruits), Such a bunch may be developed in a house
not more than Io feet high. Each stem produces one bunch of fruit and then
dies, to be succeeded by several other stems from the same root-stock. It is not
advisable to allow more than one stem to each stool, the others may be removed
and grown singly in pots or tubs. The bunches should be cut when the fruits
begin to change colour and hung in a warm room to ripen. They are at their

oT THE FRUIT GARDEN

best when fairly soft to the touch. First-rate results may be had from plants
grown in large pots or tubs. ‘The root-system of a Musa is large, and therefore
a liberal allowance of root-space is necessary. They like a strong loamy soil and
liberal supplies of manure. All the forms of AZ. sapientum require a tropical
temperature ; the Chinese banana may be grown in an intermediate tempera-
ture, but it is at its best only in a house where the winter temperature does not
fall below 60 degs. and in summer not lower than 70 degs. Ifa border can be
afforded for Musas it should be at least 3 feet deep, and contain 2 feet of rich
soil on 1 foot of drainage. The soil should be renewed for every fresh planta-
tion. Musas enjoy plenty of sunshine and a liberal supply of water at all times.

TREE TOMATO

A Solanum-like plant, Cyphomandra betacea, which has become popular
in some tropical and sub-tropical countries where the fruits are eaten raw
or made into a conserve. It is a native of Peru, where it is known as Tomato
de la Pas. The fruits are sometimes offered for sale by London dealers. As
with the tomato proper, a liking for the tree tomato has to be acquired.
They are really palatable and refreshing to those who have learnt to appreciate
them. Their flavour is that of the sweet-cup (Passiflora edulis) with a suspicion of
raw potato added. ‘The plant grows readily from seeds, and if planted in a warm
house in good loam it forms in about two years a big herbaceous shrub not unlike
a Datura, copiously branched, and bearing pendent clusters of egg-shaped orange-
yellow fruits 24 inches long; the thick leathery rind encloses a soft pulp,
which can be easily sucked or squeezed into the mouth. Several hundreds of
fruits are borne by a single plant. They keep well, and no doubt would travel
easily. With regard to this plant we have yet to teach English fruit-eaters
that it deserves a place among dessert fruits. In hot weather it is decidedly
refreshing. ‘Twenty years ago it was difficult to get many people to eat
tomatoes, and most of those who did partook of them only in a cooked state.
It is very different now. In tropical countries the tree tomato is rapidly
growing in popularity.

POMEGRANATE

Fruits are rarely produced by the pomegranate (Punica Granatum) in
England, where it is grown only as an attractive flowering shrub; but in
countries where the sun has more power it fruits as freely as the apple does
with us. It has been cultivated by man from an early period, being frequently
mentioned in the Bible. It is wild in Cabul and Persia, and is cultivated
throughout the warmer regions of the globe. The best varieties are propagated
by grafting. Seedlings should only be used as stocks for the several first-rate
varieties which bear fruits containing plenty of pulp. There is a seedless
variety known to Indian cultivators. Captain Burton, in his “Pilgrimage to
El Medina and Mecca,” describes three which he met with in Arabia: “The
best is Shami; it is red outside and very sweet, almost stoneless, like a muscat

‘SSP TD

YIINA S1NMA NI (Ssrtaagz FLOTAISSVd) YAM OT NOISS FI

ATIC ITE.

(‘ozas poanqou sparyz-omy mogp) “(MOLFNVYD VOINNd) ALVNVUDTMOd FHL

TROPICAL FRUITS 213

grape, deliciously perfumed, and as large as an infant’s head. ‘Turki is large
and of a white colour. Misri has a greenish rind and a somewhat sub-acid
and harsh flavour.” This fruit is worthy the attention of the English fruit
specialist. It is not difficult to picture a light house with a southern aspect
filled with pomegranates trained as espaliers close to the glass in the same
manner as peach trees are. ‘They would certainly flower freely, as they do
against a south wall outside, and if, by a little skilful manipulation, a good
set of fruit could be obtained, they would, when ripe, be a “ beautiful picture
of bright green leaves and solid crimson fruit of the richest hue and most
admirable shape.” A good pomegranate is good eating, but a seedless one is
much to be preferred to those one usually gets from the shops, which have been
compared to a bag of moistened shot. Canon Ellacombe states that in 1876
he counted more than sixty ripe fruits on a pomegranate at Bath, which
demonstrates that sunshine sufficient to mature the fruit can be obtained in
some parts of these islands at any rate.

PASSION FLOWER FRUIT

Several species of Passiflora bear edible fruits. The granadilla is perhaps
the most commendable, although the sweet-cup (P. edulis) is more fre-
quently cultivated in this country. The name granadilla has been applied to
the fruits of no less than three distinct species, closely allied no doubt, but still
botanically distinct. These are P. alata, P. quadrangularis, and P. macrocarpa.
They have angular, winged stems, large, entire ovate leaves, and large, egg-
shaped edible fruits, considered by some highly delectable, by others not worth
eating. The largest is P. macrocarpa, with fruits the size and shape of an
ordinary melon or an ostrich’s egg. P. guadrangularis and P. alata have fruits
about half this size. All three flower and fruit freely under stove treatment.
The fruits have a thick rind enclosing a mass of the most deliciously flavoured
jelly-like pulp, and numerous small black seeds. It may be made into a conserve
of a particularly pleasing quality.

P. edulis (the Sweet-Cup) is not uncommon as a stove climber in English
gardens. It has trilobed leaves and smooth purple fruits the size of bantam’s eggs ;
when ripe they have a hard rind and an almost liquid pulp of pleasing flavour.
The best way to eat them is as one takes a boiled egg—that is, cut off one end and
consume the contents with a spoon, adding a few drops of port wine instead of salt.

P. maliformis (the Golden Apple) has ovate, entire leaves, and fruits like
small apples.

P. laurifolia (the Water Lemon) also has ovate, entire leaves, and fruits of
the same quality as P. edulis, but larger. Mr. Abraham Dixon, of Cherkley
Court, Leatherhead, informs me that the only way to get this species to set
fruits in this country is by fertilising its flowers with pollen from P. raddiana
(fermesina). He has grown it many years for the sake of its delicious fruits
obtained in this way. The cultivation of these Passifloras presents no difficulty.
They are stove climbers, with a liking for an open loamy soil and plenty of
moisture.

214 THE FRUIT GARDEN

VANILLA

Vanilla of, commerce is the fruit of Vanilla planifolia, a climbing orchid,
the cultivation of which for commercial purposes is conducted principally
in Mauritius and the Seychelles. It is a native of Central America. The
treatment in Mauritius is as follows :—Vanilla is grown on poles in partial
shade in loam, mixed with equal parts of sand and leaf-mould. Manure
should not be used, but the soil should be renovated each season with a top-
dressing of well-rotted vegetable mould and sand. The bed should be raised
about 6 inches above the surrounding surface, and supported with stones.
Cuttings of the stems, from 2 to § feet long, are planted and fastened to
the poles up which they are to grow. The soil is kept moist. Thus started,
they readily take root and grow into flowering size in two or three years.
The flowers require to be fertilised artificially. “This is accomplished in exactly
the same way as orchid flowers generally are fertilised. “The fruits grow to
full size in about a month after fertilisation, but they are not mature until they
are about six months old. They then begin to change to a yellow colour,
when they are gathered, placed in a basket, plunged for half a minute in
hot water, and exposed to the sun to dry. At night they are kept in a
closed box. When they have become soft and brown, they are dressed with
oil and dried again. When quite cured they are of a rich dark chocolate colour,
and if in good condition they are covered with needle-like crystals.

Vanilla plants are grown and fruited at Kew, at Syon House, and in a
few other gardens. At Syon House Mr. Wythes is very successful with it ;
bunches of as many as twenty pods, each g inches long, have been grown by
him. He exposes his plants to full sunlight, except during the hottest part of
the day. They are trained against the back wall of a lean-to house where the
conditions are tropical, the minimum winter temperature being about 60 degs.
There is a narrow border at the base of the wall, which is filled with peat,
charcoal, and crocks. The plants attach themselves to the wall by means of
aerial roots. The pods are placed in a box or drawer to dry, and they then
retain their rich aroma for years.

MONSTERA DELICIOSA

An Aroid with edible fruits is exceptional, the order being remarkable for
the acrid or poisonous nature of its juices. The Monstera is very similar to a
big Philodendron, or it might be termed a glorified ivy, the behaviour of the
plant generally being similar. Multiply all the parts of the Irish ivy by about
fifty, and then you have Monstera deliciosa. "There is, however, the striking
peculiarity in the Monstera of perforated or windowed leaves, and the flowers
and fruits are, of course, very different. The former, or rather the inflorescence,
is not unlike that of an Anthurium, but the spadix is straight, thick, and club-
like, while the spathe is only partially open and is boat-shaped. The spadix
grows to a large size, 1 foot or more in length, and 2 or 3 inches thick.

THE KELSEY OR JAPANESE PLUM

(SISNANIS SANLID) FONVYO ALIDHVLO FHL

TROPICAL FRUITS 215

It takes about a year to mature, becomes yellow when ripe, and is then not
unlike a huge corn-cob, but is soft and pulpy, deliciously aromatic, and most
palatable, except that it causes a pricking sensation to some palates. On the
whole, I think it better to look at and to smell than to eat. The plant requires
plenty of room for its development, a pillar or back wall in a large tropical
house suiting it, or the stem of a palm tree in such a structure as the palm-
house at Kew. It would grow equally well on the ground, but it would
occupy much space. I have seen it growing in summer by the side of a little
pool in a sunny position out-of-doors in the garden of Mr. Chamberlain at
Highbury, but the plant is essentially tropical.

EUGENIA UGNI

This is a compact little shrub, not unlike a myrtle or a box, which grows
freely in a greenhouse, or even in the open air in the warmer parts of this
country. Inthe garden of Colonel Tremayne at Carclew, near Falmouth, it
forms a hedge, and its fruits are gathered annually to be used as dessert or for
preserving. ‘They are about the size of black currants, and not unlike them in
flavour, but are less juicy and more aromatic. They are said to make a
delicious drink, The plant is a native of Chili, but it is now widely distributed
in sub-tropical countries. It is easily propagated from seeds or cuttings.

GUAVA

Psidium Guava is a West Indian myrtaceous shrub or small tree, with
numerous branches and ovate smooth green leaves 3 inches long, bearing in
their axils clusters of two or three whitish flowers }-inch in diameter. ‘The
fruit is globose (variety pomiferum), or pear-shaped (variety pyriferum), and is
green, not unlike a little apple, with an agreeable, somewhat acid flavour. It is
largely grown in tropical countries for its fruits, which are eaten raw, or form
the well-known guava jelly.

P. cattleianum (the Purple Guava) is a Brazilian species, with dark crimson
fruits, and by some is preferred to the common guava. It was first noticed by
Mr. William Cattley, after whom the genus Cattleya was named. He grew
and fruited it in his conservatory at Barnet, two crops of fruit being produced
by one tree in the same year. ‘These plants are easily grown either as bushes,
or trained flat against a trellis. “They have a tendency to grow too dense if not
thinned somewhat freely every year. A sunny position in an intermediate
house is the best position for them. An early peach-house suits them admirably.

LOQUAT, OR JAPANESE MEDLAR

Eriobotrya japonica is an evergreen shrub or small tree, with thick branches
bearing large lanceolate leathery leaves, sometimes 1 foot long, and terminal
hawthorn-like flowers, which are deliciously fragrant. The fruits are plum-
like, yellow, tinged with red, and they contain a larger core of stones than is

216 THE FRUIT GARDEN

desirable. The pulpy portion is slightly acid, very sweet, and aromatic,
suggestive of an apricot. In sub-tropical countries the fruit is a general
favourite, and it sometimes finds its way to Covent Garden Market. Any
one who has lived in the tropics knows the value of the loquat as a dessert
fruit. It isa native of Japan and China, where it forms gnarled old specimen
trees. It was cultivated and fruited at Kew nearly a hundred years ago. It is
grown there still, both in the open air, where it is trained against a south wall,
growing vigorously, but never flowering ; and in the temperate house, where it
both flowers and fruits. The loquat is easily raised from seeds, or by grafting
on the quince, to which it is closely related. It grows rapidly, soon forming a
shapely evergreen shrub, but it requires to be improved in the quantity of
“meat” in its fruits ere it can win a place among fruit trees for the English
garden. There is a good illustration of it in the Transactions of the Horticultural
Soctety, iii. 299 (1820).

Vanitia, THE (see p. 214).

CHAPTER XIX

THE VINE

By OWEN THOMAS

Wiru the introduction of more convenient and economical methods of building
and heating glass-houses, with increased knowledge in the cultivation of the
vine, grapes have been brought within the reach of millions to whom before
they were nothing but a name. Vine culture under glass in this country has
now reached such proportions that some of the largest growers annually export
quantities of grapes to America after supplying the greatly increased and ever-
increasing demands at home. This fact will give some idea of the extent of
glass-houses devoted to the culture of grapes for market in Britain, and also
indicate why the price of grapes has fallen so considerably the last fifteen or
twenty years. This great change is due in some measure to the improved
methods of preserving late grapes. Before the advent of the varieties Lady
Downes, Black Alicante, and Gros Colmar, Black Hamburgh, Barbarossa, and
West’s St. Peters were the varieties depended on for a late supply, and after
Christmas they were rarely had in good condition. The end of May asa rule
was the earliest date at which ripe Black Hamburgh grapes could be had, so
that for nearly five months no ripe grapes were forthcoming from British
gardens. One cannot wonder that early grapes were so valuable ; they were
so much thought of some twenty or thirty years ago as often to fetch from 15s,
to 20s. per lb.

There seems no doubt that the history of the vine can be traced to an
earlier period than most exotic or hardy fruits now generally grown in Britain.
It certainly has a most remarkable record, for even in early Scripture mention
is frequently made of the vine, more particularly of its use for wine-making.

The grape vine (Vitis vinifera) is found growing wild in the temperate
regions of Western Asia and Southern Europe, and is usually supposed to be a
native of Southern Asia Minor. De Candolle, in L’ Origine des Plantes Cultivées,
says of the grape vine that it grows there with the luxuriant wildness of a
tropical creeper, clinging to tall trees, and producing abundant fruit without
pruning or cultivation. Its dissemination by birds and other agencies must have
begun very early, perhaps before the existence of man in Europe or even in
Asia. Records of the cultivation of the grape and of the making of wine in
Egypt go back 5000 to 6000 years (Nicholson). The exact period of the
introduction of the vine into this country is not known, but it is generally
conceded to be about the year 10 a.D., at which time the Romans had possession

of some portion of our island. The Romans, therefore, are usually credited
217

218 THE FRUIT GARDEN

with having been the means of introducing the grape vine into Britain. Pliny
records a vine that was six hundred years old, and Miller says that the vineyards
in some parts of Italy hold good for above three hundred years.

REMARKABLE VinEs.—There are several wonderful examples of the size
and vigour to which the vine will attain in our own country; perhaps
best known is the one at Hampton Court Palace, an old historic vine that
no one interested in vines should miss seeing when in London. It was
planted during the reign of King George II, in the year 1768, and is therefore
now (1903) one hundred and thirty-five years of age. It is said never to have
failed to produce a crop, and that with little help in the way of cultivation or
manure, as far as the roots are concerned, for no one knows where they have
penetrated. The girth of the stem is 3} feet, and its branches cover an area of
2200 square feet. At the height of 3} feet from the ground the stem is divided
into three huge limbs, the largest of which is go feet long, and the others 80 and
82 feet respectively. In its early days the vine is said to have matured two
thousand bunches of grapes annually, each bunch weighing about 1 lb. Now
it is only allowed to carry some twelve hundred bunches; these weigh about
600 lbs. As is to be expected from the great age of the vine and the difficulty
of feeding the roots, the bunches are small, and so also are the berries, but their
delicious flavour makes generous amends. In this respect it is unapproached
by any variety of Black Hamburgh I know. This vine is open free to the
inspection of the public every day in the year, subject to certain regulations,
and as many as nine thousand visitors have passed through the vinery in a day.

Another wonderful vine, and, like the above, a royal vine, is the one at
Cumberland Lodge, Windsor Great Park. It is more remarkable in many
respects than the one at Hampton Court. It is not quite so old, but it certainly
is one hundred and twenty years of age. ‘This is attested by the attendant
lately in charge of the vine, from evidence handed down to him by his father
and his grandfather, who lived in the district. It is more notable than the
Hampton Court vine in respect of its size and the weight of crop; the branches
cover a roof space of 3450 square feet, and annually bear from 2000 to 2400
bunches. This vinery is in the gardens of Cumberland Lodge, the residence
of H.R.H. Prince Christian, and within view of the upper portion of Virginia
Water. It is open to the public all the year round, and is in charge of his
Majesty’s head gardener at Windsor. At Silwood Park, a country residence
near Ascot, is another vine of great age and proportions. Scotland boasts of
one (if not more) vine of great age, size, and fertility. It is said to rival the
Cumberland Lodge vine in size, and is in the gardens at Kinnell House,
the residence of the Marquis of Breadalbane. Another celebrated vine deserv-
ing of mention is the Manresa vine, near Roehampton. This is comparatively
modern. It has filled several houses, and were others available it is reasonable
to suppose that the vine would be much larger now. It produces heavy crops
of splendid quality grapes every year. “The variety is Black Hamburgh.

VineRigs.— The glass-house now most generally adopted for the culture
of the vine is that known as the span roof. In many gardens the lean-to and
the three-quarter span are in use, and are also still erected. ‘These latter houses

THE OLD VINE AT HAMPTON COURT.

STEM OF THE HAMPTON COURT VINE.

THE VINE 219

are most useful where grapes are required very early in the year, for usually being
built against a south wall they benefit more from sun heat, and are naturally
warmer than the span roof, which is exposed on all sides. “The lean-to house
is also more easily fixed, and is cheaper than a span roof, provided that the wall
already exists. “Those who are fortunate enough to possess a wall against which
a house may be built would, of course, be unwise not to take advantage of it, for
equally good grapes can be grown in a lean-to as in a span roof. The reason I
would recommend the latter where no special conditions exist is because (1) a
span roof is cheaper if a wall has to be built before the lean-to house can be
erected, and (2) it will hold twice as many vines as will a lean-to, and all possible
space is utilised. In the lean-to such is not the case, for the back wall is practi-
cally useless. Vines may be planted, and they will cover the wall with foliage,
and for the first few years, until the roof is covered by the permanent vines, will
give a small return in fruit, but not afterwards, in consequence of the absence of
light. The three-quarter span, or what is more commonly understood as the
hip roof, is self-descriptive. It answers for early forcing as well as the lean-to,
indeed better in some respects, and especially in that more light is admitted,
particularly in the afternoon and evening. It also gives a larger roof surface.
The disadvantage of this style of house is that it is more costly in construction.
Span-roofed houses are best for the successful production of mid-season and late
grapes. The ends of these should face north and south. Any one contemplating
covering an acre or two of ground with span-roof houses for the purpose of
growing grapes for market, I would advise first to visit one or more of our
best commercial grape-growing establishments. These are to be found in
many parts within a short distance of London, notably Finchley, Broxbourne,
and Worthing. Abundant facilities must be provided in order that the vines,
when at rest, may have as much air as possible; and care must also be observed
that the ventilators are made air-tight.

Heatinc.—Provide as many 4-inch pipes as will give sufficient heat to meet
all requirements in the coldest weather without the pipes being at any time very
hot. Nothing operates more against successful fruit culture in glass-houses than
overheated pipes. Naturally the number of rows of pipes laid down will depend
upon the size of the house, and whether it is intended for early forcing or only
for midsummer or late crops. If for the former, the houses should be compara-
tively small, and lean-to or three-quarter span. Six rows of 4-inch pipes should
suffice—four flow pipes and two return—the four placed within, say, a foot of
the front wall of the house (but quite 10 inches from the vine stems), and the
two returns in the middle of the house. Later houses will require less pipes in
proportion, but it is false economy to lay down insufficient. Valves must be
fixed in the flow and return pipes where these enter the house.

TRELLISING FOR THE Roor.—It is a common mistake to fix the trellis too
near the glass, thereby cramping the foliage, subjecting the leaves to injury from
disfigurement by sun, and also from extreme cold at night by contact with the
glass. From 18 to 24 inches should be allowed, according to the vigour of the
varieties grown. Wires one-fifth of an inch thick should be placed parallel
to the front of the house, at 12 inches apart.

220 THE FRUIT GARDEN

Tue Borprr.—To avoid reiteration, I would refer readers to the chapter
on the peach under glass for information as to the formation of the border. Pre-
suming the old soil to have been cleared away and the bottom of the border
covered by concrete (if the nature of the subsoil demands this), the pipes laid
down and covered with rubble, all is ready to receive the soil. I ought
here to remark that the front wall of all fruit-houses should, if possible, be built
on arches, or iron girders placed on pillars, so that the inside and outside border
are connected. Commence with borders of limited size, instead, as was a
common practice years ago, of filling the whole border space when the vines are
planted. The first step to take in forming the new border is to cover the drainage
for a distance of 3 feet from the front wall inside the house, in the archways
under the wall, and for 18 inches outside the wall, with good firm turves,
placed grass side downwards. On the outside edge of these, a wall of turves
should be built as high as the border will be when completed, .c. at least 24 feet
above the drainage and from 6 to g inches higher than the top of the arches in
the wall. When these turf walls are completed, a space of about 2 feet will be
left to fill up with soil in which the vines are to be planted.

Tue So.—This should consist of turf cut from old pasture land, prefer-
ably from that resting on chalk, lime, or sandstone ; the turf should be cut
5 inches deep with the grass left on intact. I am aware that turf of this quality
is beyond the reach of many. I hasten to assure them that the vine is most
accommodating as regards the soil in which it will grow, but if the highest
success is to be attained the best possible loam must be provided.’ Turf cut
from the margins of public roads or roadside banks, if collected and stacked
together for three or four months, makes a good and cheap soil. Where the
land upon which the vinery is built consists of deep loam and is well drained,
if trenched and well manured, it will produce excellent grapes. Turves
should be cut up into large pieces 7 or 8 inches square, and as little of the loose
soil used as possible.

To each cartload of turf should be added one cwt. of }-inch bones, two
barrow-loads of old broken bricks, mortar, and plaster rubble, one bushel of
quicklime, and a barrow-load of road scrapings. Mix all well together. I
ought here to impress upon the inexperienced the importance of having the soil
moist, but not so moist that it sticks to the hands. After the material has been
properly mixed and formed into a heap, means should be provided to protect it
from rain until required. All we have to do now as far as the soil is concerned
is to fill up the space between the turf walls, and so prepare the border for
planting the vines. The next important question to consider is—

Prantinc.—I say important advisedly, because on the careful manner in
which this work is done depends much of the success or otherwise of the vine.
There are two methods: the one is practised in autumn and the other in
summer. I have succeeded equally well with both, but I think that for
amateurs the former answers best.

Autumn PLantinc.—By this is meant planting when the vine is dormant ;
with summer planting the work is carried out when the vine is in leaf and full
growth. A good time for winter planting is from the middle of October

“YUFd LFdYD YOSANIA ‘FOCOT ANF TYAINNI LF ANIA LFAND FHL

‘adVUD ALNVOITFK HLIM GATTI AWANIA ITAMUVW GYIOOU-NV¥dS F 4O FAIS ANO

Sues eT

THE VINE 221

to Christmas, the month of October being best. For this purpose vines
grown from “eyes” inserted the previous spring are preferable, and may be
purchased for a few shillings each. They should be removed from their pots,
the soil shaken from the roots, and the latter dipped and washed clean in water.
The roots will probably be tangled, and must be unravelled. Before com-
mencing planting, holes 24 feet square and g inches deep should be made in
the border, and soil less coarse than that recommended for the bulk of the
border will be necessary to place in contact with the roots. The soil should
be made firm as planting proceeds, vines planted in loose borders are
never a success. Long and strong roots must be shortened to about 18
inches or 2 feet; place the soil about each root with the hand until all are
covered to the depth of about 6 inches. Place a narrow ridge of turf on the
surface, some 3 feet from the vine, in order to make sure the roots will receive
the benefit of water given, and also that the soil in which there are no roots
is not uselessly saturated. ‘Towards the end of November the vines must be
pruned, and the way to do this is to cut the vine down, leaving only two of
the lower buds, one of which will form the new cane for the next year’s
growth ; one bud is really enough, but it is safer to leave two in case of an
accident to one. Toa small stake long enough to reach from the border to
the base of the trellis the vine should be attached. Protect the plants from
damage by insects by placing soot around each stem about 4 inches from it.

Summer Pranrinc.—The best time to do this is the first week in July,
and the vines most suitable are those called “cut backs,” that is to say,
vines grown from “eyes” the previous year, cut back to one or two buds
the following spring, and grown on again in pots. By July the canes
will be 4 or 5 feet long. Give the plants a good watering the day before
removing them from the pots. “The same care must be observed in laying out
the roots as advised when winter planting, the young vines are in full growth,
so the roots must not be unduly disturbed or the vines will certainly suffer. As
soon as planting is completed the vines should be well watered with warm
water. Take great care not to allow them to become dry, plants grown in
pots are very liable to do so when planted out. The vinery should be kept
warm and moist. Shade heavily until the roots have taken hold of the new
soil, which will soon be apparent.

TREATMENT AFTER PLantTinc.—The young vines should be encouraged
to make rapid and vigorous growth during the next two months by keeping
the atmosphere moist, by syringing copiously before closing the house. <A
moderate amount of air must be given on warm bright mornings, a little
being admitted as early as 6 a.m. in the summer. The less fire heat then used
the better the vines will succeed. During the whole season of active growth
the atmosphere of the vinery should be kept moderately moist in order to
encourage strong and healthy growth, and the way to secure this condition is
by syringing the borders, walls, and paths of the house several times during the
course of the day, and also at least once in the evening. When the young
vines are 10 or 12 feet long they should be stopped, that is, the ends of the
canes pinched off; side-shoots (“laterals”) will then form, and should be

222

VINE Two YEARS OLD, FOR FRUIT-

ING IN PoT OR PLANTING

(s) Point where cut back when at rest,

the vine having been grown from an
“eye” inserted the previous spring ; (2)
cane; (1) laterals pinched at first leaf;
(v) sub-laterals stopped to one point as
produced ; the leader is stopped near
top (6 to 8 feet from base, according to
vigour and length desired); (2) lateral
from extremity pinched to three leaves
and afterwards to one leaf as produced 5
(y) point of shortening for fruiting in pot,
always to a plump round bud below point
of stopping, and, of course, to length re-
quired. x. Same vine (leafless) shortened
to three buds above lowest wire of trellis
when vine is to be planted out, and
laterals cut off close to stem ; (z) point
of cutting back in previous winter; (
points where laterals have been cut off ;
cross line indicates lowest wire of trellis ;
(Z) point of shortening cane.

THE FRUIT GARDEN

encouraged until five or six leaves have developed,
and then be stopped. By the end of August the
summer’s growth will be complete, and more air
must be admitted in order to ripen the wood and
buds. When October arrives the ventilators
should be left fully open in favourable weather
night and day, and by November the vines will
have matured their season’s growth, and should
be at complete rest.

Distance Apart To PrLantr.—Discrimina-
tion is necessary in this matter, as some varieties
require more space than others, and again, those
intended for early forcing may be planted closer
together than those for mid-season and winter
supplies. Early vineries are usually planted with
Black Hamburgh, Foster’s Seedling, and Buck-
land Sweetwater ; 3 feet apart is space enough
to allow for these, and speaking generally, 4 feet
will be the proper distance for the mid-season
and late varieties.

SECOND YEAR AFTER PLANTING

When considering the cultivation of the vine
it is well to fix a time of year when growth may
be said to end and when it begins. [ think it
is an advantage to fix the end of the season at
October 31st and the commencement of the new
season on November 1st. The first week in
November the gardener naturally casts his mind
forward to another year of important work. To
have early crops in May the vinery must then be
closed and forcing commenced. If the vine
borders are worn out, and the condition of the
vines indifferent in consequence, the work of
renovation should also then be taken in hand.
It is the time of year too for pruning all summer
and early autumn fruiting vines, for making new
vine borders and planting dormant vines, and
cleansing the vines and vineries from insect
pests.

Pruninc.—Supposing the young vines to
have made satisfactory progress during the first
year of their growth, by November the canes
will be 10 or 12 feet long, and ought to enjoy
a long period of rest. It is acknowledged by

‘“HHONDOUT LF ANIA ONITGHYS S UALSOL TIAPFNUFNAN PF

GRAPE REINE OLGA (AN EXCELLENT VARIETY FOR
WALLS OUTDOORS).

THE VINE 22%

all good cultivators that the sooner the vine is pruned after its leaves have
fallen the better. Should any of the vines have made only weakly growths,
then these must be cut back to within three buds of their bases, that is to
say, only three buds will be left of the previous year’s growth. The moderately
strong canes should be shortened to 2 feet, and the strong canes may be left
4 feet long. Some advocate that a length of from 6 to 8 feet of cane should
be left at pruning time. The roof of the vinery is covered with fruit-bearing
wood in much less time I admit, but the vines are planted with the object of first
making strong canes and having regularly distributed, well-developed fruit-spurs.
This is difficult and often impossible with the long cane pruning ; the buds at
the base often refuse to grow at all, and others higher up only grow weakly,
producing, as a consequence, badly developed and irregularly placed spurs,
which in turn only produce small bunches. Moreover, the main stem of the
vine never attains proper strength in after years by pursuing this system of
pruning, and as vines, excepting early forced ones, with careful management
will produce heavy crops for from thirty to forty years, the importance of
making a good start will be apparent. Some of the wood cut off when pruning
should be saved, tied up in bundles, and placed in the shade; it may be
wanted for propagating in spring. Having completed the pruning of the vine,
the next thing we have to do is to wash down the house—glass, woodwork,
and walls—thoroughly, using soft soap and water and a hand scrubbing brush.
Before beginning this work the vine border should be covered over with mats
or loose straw to prevent its being made wet and sticky. After cleaning is over
remove the surface soil about an inch deep and replace with fresh. A new
stake should be applied to each vine, and the same fastened to the roof trellis.
After this the vinery ventilators must be thrown open to their full extent, and
the vines given the advantage of all air possible night and day while at rest,
which will be from now until the end of March. In case of hard frost the
ventilators must be closed at night. The outside border should be covered over
early in November with dry leaves, straw, mats, or boards to keep off rain,
not to protect the roots from frost, as this will not harm them. If the stems
of the vine are outside they had better be covered over as a protection from
frost. When the ventilators are open during winter as recommended, the
precaution should be taken to empty the hot-water pipes, or in the event of
hard frost the water in the pipes will freeze, and when thawing takes place the
pipes may crack.

Azsout Borpers.—For midsummer, autumn, and winter grapes it is not
absolutely necessary to have an inside border at all. First-class grapes can be
grown in an outside border, but for early forcing it is better to have both
inside and outside. There is no doubt an advantage in having the two sorts of
borders, for when they need renewing, the work can be carried out with com-
paratively little disturbance to the roots, the inside border being done one year
and the outside border a year or two after.

CoMMENCEMENT OF GRowTH.—We suppose the young vines to be
pruned, the border top-dressed, and the vinery cleaned. In March the long
rest comes to an end. About the 2oth March 1s the best time to start the vines

224 THE FRUIT GARDEN

for their second summer’s growth. Close the house early in the afternoon,

having well syringed the

YOUNG VINE IN FIRST YEAR'S
GROWTH AFTER PLANTING

(e) Shoots rubbed off to lowest wire of
trellis; (/) side or bearing shoots,
termed laterals, stopped two joints
beyond bunches of fruit, other
laterals pinched to one leaf; sub-
laterals are also pinched to one leaf
as made, though beyond a bunch
these may extend twoor three leaves
before pinching, as space permits;
(g) leader stopped; (4) bunch of
fruit on leader cut off.

sub-laterals to issue from

vines and the interior of the vinery, letting the
temperature reach 65 or 70 degs. Fahr. Artificial
heat must not be used for at least ten days or a
fortnight. The temperature at night should be
low, say 55 degs. Much of the future success of
the vine depends upon the buds bursting strongly
and regularly, therefore young vines must not be
started too early or in a high temperature. In
about a fortnight the buds will swell and be ready
to break into growth, but all must not be permitted
to grow. We must determine which are to form
the permanent fruit-bearing spurs of the . vine.
These should be about 15 inches apart on either
side, and the intervening ones must be gradually
taken off ; it is, however, advisable to leave the bud
next to the permanent one longer in case of pre-
mature loss by accident of the latter. The growths
are very tender, and the least careless touch may
break them off. Growth will soon be active, and
the grower must provide artificial heat, to be used
chiefly at night and to prevent the temperature
falling below 57 degs. When the young shoots are
10 or 12 inches long a piece of matting should
be attached to them and fastened to the trellis
simply to prevent their touching the glass; ulti-
mately they must be brought down to the trellis.
No item in vine culture requires more careful per-
formance than this. As they grow older the shoots
become stronger, and by the exercise of patience
may be brought safely to the trellis in time. An
interesting point now suggests itself, namely, how
early should the vine be allowed to produce fruit ?
The young cane of moderate size which has been
pruned back to 2 feet may produce one or two
bunches of grapes, and the stronger cane, which
was left 4 feet long, may be permitted to carry two
or three bunches; each of these should weigh from
14 to 2 Ibs. Allowing young vines to fruit diverts
some energy to the production of fruit instead of
luxuriance of wood growth. The young shoots
will usually produce a bunch of grapes opposite the
second or third leaf, and after three more leaves have
developed they must be stopped. This will cause
the axils of the leaves below ; these must also be

stopped at the third leaf, and every subsequent shoot at the second leaf,

THE VINE 225

SUMMER TREATMENT.—Carefully stop sub-laterals and secure the main
shoot to the trellis as it grows, and when g or 10 feet long it should be

stopped, as advised in notes
on the first year’s treatment.
This will soon cause other
shoots to form, which must
be treated as advised for
spur - laterals. Watering,
ventilation, and moisture in
the atmosphere must have
due attention at all times,
as directed before ; at the
end of the second year the
young vine will have filled
the roof with healthy and
luxurious foliage and sturdy,
strong canes. With refer-
ence to tying down the
young shoots of the vine,
a word of caution is neces-
sary to impress upon the
beginner to be careful never
to tie them to the trellis
tightly, for when first
secured they are only par-
tially developed, and the
further swelling of the
shoot will cause the mat-
ting, or whatever is used
for tying, to sink into it,
often destroying the bark ;
this should be remembered
when tying is done.

Tue Turrp YEar.

We have now come to
the end of the second year’s
growth, and the routine of
work for the third year
will necessarily be followed
more or less on the lines
previously recommended.
Pruning must be com-

pleted as soon as the vines have lost their leaves.

VINE ON ROOF TRELLIS AT THIRD WINTER PRUNING

(2) Point of pruning stem previous winter; (2) points of second

pruning ; (7) points of third pruning, or current year’s winter
pruning ; (z) (0) bearing shoots (that in preceding summer
each bore a bunch of grapes, were stopped two joints beyond
fruit, and laterals pinched to each leaf as made) cut back to
one bud, the object being to keep spurs close to rod ; (J) lead-
ing growth or cane on which laterals have been pinched to one
joint as made, and shown properly cut off; (g) buds cut out ;
(v) point of shortening cane, the dotted line indicates continua-
tion growth the following year ; (s) buds from which bearing
shoots issue, and ultimately form spurs, when pruned, at
opposite sides of the vine, about 18 inches distance apart on
each side.

The side shoots (spurs)

should be cut back to two buds; one would be enough, but it is preferable

P

226 THE FRUIT GARDEN

to leave two until you can see which is likely to give the better bunch ;
the weaker bud must then be rubbed off. ‘The main shoot or cane
should be shortened on the same principle as advised before, namely, that
the weak one must be cut fairly hard back, leaving only a foot of the
previous year’s growth; the moderate cane may be left 2 or 2} feet and
the strong cane 4 feet long; always cut back to a bud. The young vine
should then be washed with Gishurst’s compound. A small box will go a long
way; it is as useful for this purpose as anything I know. Instructions to prepare
it accompany each box. Even if the young vines have been free from insect
pests during the season of growth, it is a wise precaution to have them washed
with insecticide. When this work is done and the house cleansed, the border
will need to be enlarged both inside and
out.

ENLARGING THE BorpER.—The best
way to do this is to pull down the turf walls
which were built when the borders were
formed, and build others of fresh turf, giving
additional space of 2 feet both to the inside
and outside border. If it is difficult to pro-
cure fresh turf, the old turf walls will be
very useful when enriched by fresh loam and
the other material recommended originally.
I would, however, prefer that new loam be
used (with the other ingredients) in enlarging
the border, as better results unquestionably
follow. Before placing this new material
GRowTHs FROM A SPUR THAT IN Winter about the roots of the vines, the old soil

HAS BEEN PRUNED TO Two Bups should be forked away until a fair number
(z) Shoot from uppermost bud bearing a of roots are reached; the points of these

ee ian a el Aeron of fan be should be placed in the new soil as carefully

small and not desirable to leave; (4) as when the vine was first planted, taking

SAR ee en fin, Mista care to shorten any long, coarse, fibreless

near to stem; (w) base of spur; (x) Yroots. All the small roots must be scrupu-

point of shortening shoot not allowed ously taken care of, and replanted in the new

to bear, to two buds at winter pruning. :
soil. If any are bruised they should be cut
back beyond the injury. Then add sufficient soil to the border to make it
level with the old, top-dress the old border with new soil, and place the ridge
of soil or clay round the stem of the vine as far as the original border extends,
to compel water to penetrate the border round about the stem, where are the
most important roots and where often they suffer most from want of water.
The vines will enjoy a long rest, and when again they are started into growth,
towards the 2oth of March, the same routine of work will have to be gone
through as that already described. At the end of the third year the roof of the
vinery should be nearly covered with bearing wood, returning the grower hand-
some crops of valuable grapes. With the fresh soil added, the outside border
will be 34 feet and the inside one 5 feet wide. ‘This will suffice, with annual

THE: VINE yo

top-dressings, until the end of the fifth year, when 2 feet more should be added
both inside and out. The next and last enlargement of the border two years
after should make it complete, say 9 feet wide outside and 8 feet inside. This
extent of border I consider quite large enough to meet all requirements.

Before I leave the subject of enlarging borders, I should like to say, that if
the vine roots had made good progress the quantity of new soil recommended
would not be too much; on the other hand, if their progress had been poor, then
less new soil would suffice. It will be observed that in the composition of the
border I have refrained from recommending the use of artificial or organic
manures. ‘These are not necessary. There is nothing better than loam (with
the additional material at first mentioned) ; when, however, the border is full
of roots and the vines are in active growth and carrying heavy crops, the help
of manure is of vital importance.

WarerinG.—In considering this subject, it must not be forgotten that we
are dealing with artificially constructed borders,
so well drained that water passes through them
very freely. The vine border should never be
allowed to become dry. The borders of early
vineries started on the 1st of November must
have a thorough soaking of warm clear water
a week or so before the house is closed and
before the borders have been top-dressed.
They need not be watered again until the
buds are about to burst into growth, when
weak manure water from the stableyard, and
warmed, should be given. The next watering
must be given before the vines come into
flower, and this time weak guano water—by
this I mean a handful of guano to three gallons
of warm water. If the roots extend to the
outside border, this also is watered before the
house is closed and before being covered for (y) Shoot that has borne fruit cut away

: : : . altogether; (z) shoot that has not
the winter. There is nothing gained by produced fruit cut back to two buds.
watering the outside border again until the
berries are swelling, say towards the end of February or the beginning
of March, when the covering should be taken off and a good soaking of
diluted manure water from the stableyard given. Afterwards the covering
must be replaced until all danger of frost is over. Early in May the border
being exposed to the influence of the sun and air will quickly dry, and
should receive water as frequently as the inside one. This must again
receive manure water as soon as the berries have formed. From this time (say
May) until the crop is ripe, it is safe to say that water should be given every
ten days or a fortnight, and the manure varied with each watering, always
bearing in mind not to apply artificial manure in strong doses. If farmyard
liquid manure is to be had, I would always use this twice as often as an artificial
fertiliser. I have never seen harm follow the use of even an overdose of this, as

SpuR PROPERLY PRUNED

228 THE FRUIT GARDEN

I often have in the case of the latter. When the grapes are ripe, the vines must
not receive such copious waterings as before, nevertheless the border must never
be allowed to become at all dry. Give clear water only until the grapes are cut;
immediately afterwards the borders should be well watered with liquid manure to
nourish the vine after the exhaustion of developing and ripening a heavy crop
of fruit. Thence, until the vines are at rest, water will be
required in moderate quantities only, and at less frequent
intervals. The remarks here made for guidance in water-
ing the border of the early forced vinery apply equally to
vines grown under glass when started at any season of the
year. One word as regards watering the borders in winter
while the vines are practically dormant. At least one
thorough irrigation of the borders at this season is highly
beneficial, and strongly to be recommended. Farmyard
manure water should be used, and in stronger solution than
for summer application.

MotsrurE IN THE ATMOSPHERE.—During the vine’s
growth, from the time the vinery is closed until the
berries are black and nearly ripe, moisture must be pro-
Growt From Young Vided. ‘The vine, with its immense leaf surface, is almost

VINE cuT pown To as much sustained by what is absorbed through the leaves
Ewe Dove as by the sustenance derived by its roots. A moist
(2) Growth rubbed off; atmosphere also helps to keep the vines free from insect

(J) growth retained pests, A dry arid atmosphere encourages thrip, and red

to form a vigorous shider particularly. The ways of providing moisture

are several. One is by using the syringe, and this
is perhaps the best. Others are by having troughs fixed upon the hot-
water pipes, or by attaching an indiarubber pipe to the tap where a force
of water already exists. This latter is an easy and an economical method,
but during winter and spring the water is naturally so cold as
to lower the temperature of the house when applied. At that
season it is best to use the troughs on the pipes, and syringe
with warm water. A watering-can with a fine rose may, of
course, be used, but the objection I have to this is that too
much water is used at a time, injuriously affecting the border by Saori igh
constant wetting of the soil. Bups

SYRINGING THE VineEs.—From the time the vinery is closed
until the buds have burst into growth, the vines should be crc piat

: : : ised when vine
moistened with the syringe several times a day. After- is weak.
wards the foliage should not be syringed ; it must depend upon
the moisture from the atmosphere to keep it in health. When the vines are
attacked with red spider or thrip, they must be then well syringed ; and if
rain water is used no great harm to the fruit will result, but if water containing
lime is used, the berries will be so spotted and disfigured as to be useless for.
dessert.

‘TEMPERATURES AND VENTILATION.—A table of approximate temperatures

HOW THE VINE IS TRAINED IN A MARKET NURSERY.

‘NOGNOT MVAN AUASHAN LANUVMW V NI SAIYANIA

THE VINE 229

for guidance to the amateur and inexperienced is given at the end of this
chapter ; therefore, much need not now be said. The greatest care is needed
in spring and early summer, when growth is young and tender, and the weather
capricious. The chief point is to avoid draughts, and therefore the front
ventilators must be sparingly opened (if at all) during cold weather, and
especially if east winds prevail. Generally speaking, the heat in the pipes can
be soon reduced by means of the valves, if sunshine suddenly occurs. Air
in sufficient quantity can be admitted through the top ventilators to keep the
temperature within proper limits. Afterwards, as the weather becomes warmer,
more air may be safely given at both front and top, but always gradually;
admit a little early in the morning, and increase the amount at intervals
until the maximum is reached from noon to 1 p.m. The same method, in
reverse order, should be carried out in the afternoon as the power of the sun
declines, until it is safe to close the vinery without causing the thermometer to
register more than 80 or 85 degs.

SuccEssionaL Crops.—lIt will help the grower as to the proper time to
start his vines for successional crops if he will bear in mind that, from the
day they are started until the fruit is ripe, six months usually elapse. For
instance, an early vinery, started on the 1st of November, should produce ripe
grapes at the end of April. Started on the 1st December, they should be ripe
at the end of May, and so on through the season. Of course, by harder forcing
it is possible to shorten the season in which grapes can be produced, but this
would be at the expense of the health of the vine. It is always better to allow
for a period of six months.

The number of bunches a vine with a single stem ought to be allowed
to ripen depends upon the weight of the bunches, the variety of grape,
whether quantity or quality is the desideratum, &c. If the bunches average
2 or 24% lbs. each, eight or ten would be quite enough for most varieties.
If the bunches are smaller, more in proportion might be allowed. If it
is a question of weight, and not of the highest quality, then from twelve to
fifteen bunches may be left of 14 Ib. or so each without detriment to the vine.

Extension SystEM.—By this method, instead of restricting the vine’s
growth to one stem, several are allowed to grow. This, no doubt, is the
most natural plan to adopt, but it is not always conveniently carried out
under artificial conditions, especially where space is limited, and several varieties
are wanted. I am of opinion that the vine will succeed better, live longer in
good health, and produce better crops when grown on the extension system
than when confined to a single stem for a number of years. The common
practice among the best growers who allow their vines to extend, is to have
two rods to one stem. Of course, if it is desired still further to extend the
branches, one vine may in time fill the largest vinery, as at Hampton Court,
Cumberland Lodge, &c. Should a cultivator wish to convert his single-
stemmed vines into double ones, the process is very simple: he has only to
select a shoot at the base, and encourage it to grow and take the place of the
vine close by. This will take three or four years to accomplish, and the
method of pruning, &c., will be the same as advised for newly planted vines

230 THE FRUIT GARDEN

As the young cane makes progress, the vine it supplants must gradually be cut
away to make room. By following this plan no loss of fruit will be sustained
during the process of converting the single vine into a double one. Or the
system can be carried out in a simpler way at the time of planting, by having
them twice as far apart as recommended for single-stemmed vines, and the
following year when growth commences train two shoots from each instead
of one. I think the first plan is to be preferred, as the roof is filled more
quickly with fruit-bearing wood, and the vine grown as a single rod will bear
heavily for years, and can afterwards be doubled, as stated above, if desired.

How to Renovate Oxrp Vines.—There are thousands of vines through-
out the country whose owners are at a loss to know how to reinvigorate and
bring them back to health. The vine is long-suffering and patient, and will
endure much ill-treatment before succumbing.

It may be well first to draw attention to a few of the causes which
most frequently conspire to bring about, not the death (it is very seldom one
sees a dead vine), but the unsatisfactory condition of many amateurs’ vines.
Often the border is at fault; it is badly drained, the soil is exhausted, or the
roots may have entered unwholesome soil beyond the border. A mistake com-
monly made in the management of the branches is that of leaving too many
spurs on the vine at the time of pruning, with consequent overcrowding of
foliage in summer. ‘There must never be less than a foot between each spur;
on strong and healthy vines 15 inches should be allowed. The summer shoot
issuing from the spur should be stopped at the sixth leaf, and the laterals
which issue from the axils of the leaves afterwards should be stopped at the
third leaf. As a rule, sub-laterals are allowed by the amateur to run wild, and
perhaps are removed once or twice indiscriminately during the season. The
vine has no chance of perfecting its main leaves or properly developing its
fruit buds under these conditions. Another frequent source of trouble is
crowding the vinery with a medley collection of plants, many of them probably
infested with noxious pests. I see no harm in preserving a few bedding plants
through the winter, and propagating them in the spring in the vinery if there
is no other place available, as they are usually free from insects. It is when
an attempt is made to grow a mixed collection of plants in the vinery more
or less all the year round, and when a compromise is made between the con-
ditions favourable to the vine and the plants, that bad results follow. Now
as to the remedies. You may ask one gardener his opinion as to the best
remedy to adopt to bring your ill-conditioned vines into health and fertility,
and his reply may be, “Pull them up, burn them, and plant young ones.”
This is all very well. You do not always want to be replanting vines; it
takes at least four years to fill the vinery with grapes. Better advice would
be to give some information as to the cause of the failure, and point out
remedies which would rejuvenate and permanently re-establish the health of
the vines.

The first thing to do is to examine the roots. Should there be an inside
and outside border, then examine the one inside first, and that outside the
following year. To do this effectually dig a trench 2 feet wide, deep enough

GRAPE APPLEY TOWERS.

GRAPE MUSCAT OF ALEXANDRIA.

THE VINE 291

to reach the drainage, and as far away from the stems of the vines as is
necessary for safety’s sake, say 7 or 8 feet. The material taken out of this
trench should be carted away, as it must on no account again be used for the
vine border. Then with a fork gradually draw away the soil, working towards the
vine stem, and taking care of every root met with. This should proceed until
one is within 18 inches or 2 feet of the stem of the vine, where a good many
roots will be found. All the loose soil that we have removed should be taken
away, then make the drainage effective. While this work is proceeding, the
exposed roots must be covered over with damp mats or straw. Presuming the
drainage to be satisfactory and covered with turf for about 4 feet from the front
wall, on the edge of this build a turf wall as high as the border will be when
finished. This will leave about 3 feet for a new border in which to lay out
the roots. First cut back any long, bare roots, then carefully complete the
work as advised in the notes on planting. The best time to do this is towards
the end of October, but it may be safely undertaken until the end of January.
I would recommend that the vinery be kept cool until the vines start naturally
into growth, say the first week in April. Disturbing the roots may cause
the young leaves to droop slightly ; if so, shade must be given for a time.
As little fire heat should be used as possible. Syringe the vines frequently
during the day, and in the evening as well; this will encourage the buds
to burst. A healthy growth will result if the atmosphere is moist and warm
and the house carefully ventilated. It often happens that the spurs and fruit
buds on the stems of vines out of health have become irregular, weak, and
partly withered. When this is the case it is necessary to select a strong growth
as near the base of the vine as possible and encourage it to grow into a long
cane, so that by repeated pruning back it will in the course of three or four
years take the place of the old, worn-out stem. ‘Towards the end of May
many new roots will be found making their way into the new soil, then give
a top-dressing half an inch thick of fresh horse manure, with a little soil added
(one-fourth to three-fourths of manure). This will be of immense advantage
to the vine. ‘The following year the outside roots must be treated in exactly
the same way. Where there happens to be only one border—whether outside
or inside makes no difference—the same treatment must be carried out, only
bearing in mind that it is advisable not to draw away the soil quite so near the
vine stem as when there are two borders to deal with. These reduced new
borders can be added to with fresh soil as soon as the space already provided is
filled with roots. I have frequently seen vines brought from a most unsatis-
factory condition into perfect health and fertility in a comparatively short time
by adopting the method above described.

PROPAGATION

By Srgeps.—There are various ways in which the vine may be propagated :
one is by means of seeds, but this is rarely resorted to except when the object
is to raise a new variety. It would take too long to raise vines in this way for
ordinary purposes, and, moreover, one could not be sure of the variety being

292 THE FRUIT GARDEN

true to name. Sow the seed in small pots, placing two seeds in a pot, the first
week in March; put the pots in a warm house, water the soil, and cover
them with a piece of glass. If the seeds are good it will not be long before the
seedlings show above ground. The glass should then be removed, placing the
plants near the glass to encourage sturdy growth. If the two seeds have grown,
one seedling must be taken out of the pot as soon as it is large enough to get
hold of, and thrown away or planted in another pot as the cultivator may
decide. When the seedling is 10 or 12 inches high it should be repotted into
a 7-inch pot. After firm potting return it to the same temperature and posi-
tion near the glass. When the shoot begins to harden, as it will do towards
the end of the summer, this is an indication that growth has ceased for the
season, and maturation commenced. This must be assisted by the admission
of more air and by a cooler temperature until, towards the middle of August,
the young vine is placed in a sunny position out-of-doors, there to remain
until winter frost and rains make shelter desirable. During wet weather the
pot should be laid on its side to prevent saturation of the soil. The future
of the seedling must be shaped as the grower desires; it may be either
planted in a border during winter, or cut back to two buds in January and
repotted in a 12-inch pot. It will make a strong cane in the course of the
season if grown in the same temperature as advised for the seedling vine, and
will bear fruit the year following.

Another method of propagating the vine is to tie a piece of turf to the spur
immediately underneath the bud as it is about to break into growth. As the
young shoot expands it will emit roots into the turf, which must, when full ot
these, be placed in a 6-inch pot filled with soil, and supported in its position
by being tied to the trellis. The pot will soon be full of roots, then the
shoot may be severed from the vine. The cutting away must be done gradually,
severing the spur a little at a time. This mode of propagation is not often
resorted to, but in cases of emergency it is often found useful.

By Bups.—The best method of propagation, and the only one usually
practised in England, is by means of buds or “eyes.” Cut out a piece of a
shoot of the vine with a good bud in the centre. It should be 14 inch long,
and the side underneath the bud cut away to the depth of about an } of an
inch. Insert it cut side downwards in a 3-inch pot filled with turfy loam, the
bud being just visible above the soil. Secure firmly by well pressing the soil.
It should be placed in the propagating house, or some other convenient
structure where there is plenty of heat and moisture. It will not be long before
the bud commences to grow, and at the same time roots will issue from each
end and from the cut base of the shoot, filling the pot within a'short time.

As soon as the young vine has filled its pot with roots, and is 10 inches or
1 foot high, it must be shifted into a 7-inch pot, using for this potting a soil
composed of tough fibrous loam pulled into pieces the size of a pigeon’s egg,
with most of the loose soil sifted out of it. To a barrow-load of this add
a 6-inch potful of bone dust, the same of quicklime, and about a peck of
old mortar rubble broken to the size of marbles; when well mixed this
makes an excellent compost for encouraging root formation. When repotted

THE VINE 233

the vines must be placed in a position where they can have abundance of heat,
moisture, and light. Secure the young shoots to stakes as they grow. As little
fire heat as possible should be used, although it cannot be dispensed with
entirely, and the house closed early enough in the afternoon to make the
temperature rise to 85 degs. Fahr.

Towards the end of June the pots will be full of roots: if wanted for
summer planting in permanent vineries, the vines will then be ready for that
purpose ; if intended for winter planting, they must be grown on in the same
pots and ripened in the autumn, as advised for the seedling vine.

The best time to start this work, in my opinion, is the middle of February.
Then the days are longer, the sun is more powerful, and the buds will grow
more strongly than if they were started in January. A word as regards the
shoots from which the cuttings are obtained. These should be cut off the vines
before Christmas if possible, tied in bundles, with the ends inserted in soil, and
placed in a cold position until wanted, Better results are obtained from shoots
thus retarded than from those cut from the vine just when required and when
growth is about to commence.

By Grarrinc.—Where many varieties of grapes are grown in one house, it
often happens a few years after the vines have been planted that the grower is
disappointed with one or more of the varieties, and wishes them changed for
more desirable sorts. ‘There are two ways by which this can be accomplished
without destroying the vine one wishes to get rid of ; indeed, the vine to be
discarded is requisitioned into service. The one is by a term known as
“ bottle-grafting,” and the other by “ Inarching.” ‘The former is accomplished
by grafting the shoot of the new variety on the stem of the vine to be discarded,
and is carried out in the following way :—About a foot above the base of the
vine a piece, 3 inches long and } of an inch deep, should be cut out. Have
ready a shoot of the variety you wish to grow ; it should be about a foot
long; in fact, a shoot which is cut off at pruning time in the usual way.
Below the second bud from the top of the shoot cut out a piece the same
length and depth as cut from the stem; bring the two cut pieces together,
taking care that they fit exactly, and with pieces of rafha tie them
together securely, using plenty of raffia so that no part of the grafted stem is
exposed to the air. ‘The shoot should be long enough to allow some 6 or 7
inches to be free below the point of union, that it may be inserted in a bottle
of water. It must be kept in this during the first season’s growth, and the
water occasionally changed. ‘The best time to carry out this work is a month
before the vines are started into growth, and the graft should not be interfered
with in any way whatever until towards the end of June, when it must be
looked to in case, through the swelling of the grafted parts, the rafha is cutting
into the bark ; before the matting is loosened three other ties should be made
—one at each end, and one at the middle to make the graft secure. If this is
omitted, and the graft separates, then all labour is lost. ‘Therefore, take care
that the graft is made secure before the original matting is taken away. If the
work has been well and properly carried out as directed, the grafting should
prove successful, and the union of the scion and stem securely and permanently

234 THE FRUIT GARDEN

accomplished. One cannot be sure that the graft is securely joined to the stem
until the parts have become hardened in the autumn. One only of the top
buds of the grafted shoot should be allowed to grow, and in course of the season,
if the grafting is successful, it will make a long growth, which in winter must
be cut back to 12 inches or longer according to its strength. At the time of
pruning, that part of the shoot inserted in the bottle of water must be cut away
close to where grafted, as the water is no longer of use. As the grafted shoot
increases in strength and size, so must the vine to be discarded be cut away to
make room for it: in two or three years the new variety will take the place of
the old.

INARCHING is of a similar nature, but is carried out in summer, when two
green shoots are united in the same way as directed for bottle-grafting.
In this case the variety one wishes to substitute for that discarded should
be grown in a pot, and as soon as the young vine has produced a shoot
large enough, it should be grafted upon a similar green shoot of the other
vine, as near the base of the stem as possible. This is an excellent way of
finding out expeditiously the value of a new grape, as by inarching a shoot
it is possible to obtain fruit the next year; whereas if the new vine were
planted out in the ordinary way, it would at least take two years.

VINE CULTURE IN POTS

The cultivation of the vine in pots has been brought to perfection in this
country ; many thousands are so grown every year. Eight or more bunches,
weighing from 1 to 2 lbs. each, can be grown on a pot vine, and ripe grapes
can be had in eighteen months after the bud is inserted in the small pot.
When the vines are not unduly forced and the pots are placed in a narrow
border of rich soil into which the roots can enter through the bottom and sides
of the pots, as heavy a crop of good grapes can be grown in this way as can be
produced on vines permanently planted in a border, but the pot vines are so
exhausted as to be of no further use after the grapes are ripe, and must be
thrown away. The pot vine is most valuable for the production of early
grapes by forcing. By its aid we not only obtain excellent early grapes, but
at the same time preserve the vigour and health of early vines for a much
longer period. Without the pot vines early permanent vines would be
forced much harder, and consequently would be worn out more quickly. The
pot vine, carrying a crop of ripe fruit, with its richly tinted foliage of crimson
and gold, is excellent for decoration. Instructions for the propagation of the
pot vine are given in the general notes on the subject. We will suppose the
young plants to have been potted into 7-inch pots.

As soon as the vines have again filled their pots with roots they should
be repotted into 12-inch pots. The pots must be clean, and should have
holes at the sides as well as in the base. “The drainage should consist of clean
broken crocks an inch deep with larger pieces placed over the holes. The
soil should be as previously advised, excepting that the lumps of turf may be

ALICANTE GRAPE GROWN FOR MARKET.

GRAPE ALICANTE,

THE VINE O55

rather larger, and half a gallon of }-inch bones to a barrow of soil may be
added, It is better to repot the vines in the house where they are growing than
to run the risk of damaging the foliage and checking their growth by taking
them elsewhere. All the vines that were potted into 7-inch pots will not be
large enough to put in the fruiting pots, so a selection must be made of the
strongest. It is useless trying to fruit weakly ones the first year; only the
vigorous will give a good crop of fruit the following season. I have seen so
much harm result from the injudicious use of artificial manures that I hesitate
to recommend their use except in very moderate quantities, and especially so in
the case of the pot vine. The object of the cultivator should be to provide a
soil that will best encourage root growth. Artificial stimulants can afterwards
be applied safely in a liquid form.

In potting disturb the roots as little as possible. A few of the most
prominent roots must be drawn out a little, so that they may at once come
into contact with the new soil. As the soil is added make it firm, When
potting is completed the surface soil should be less than an inch below the rim
of the pot. No better place can be found for the pot vine when potted than
an ordinary melon or cucumber house. When the vine is 8 feet long it should
be stopped ; this is long enough for all practical purposes for a pot vine of one
season’s growth. Lateral shoots as they form should be stopped at the second
or third leaf. If the vines are in good health they will soon fill their pots with
roots, and will need more water at the roots, indeed, on some very warm days
they will require watering twice a day, and weak manure water should be
given at least with every other watering.

The best stimulant I consider is fresh deer manure, and the most convenient
form in which to prepare it is by placing it in a bag, sinking the bag in a tank of
water. Where this is not to be had sheep or cow manure must be substituted,
adding to it a small quantity of soot. An occasional change of manure is
beneficial ; for instance, weak guano water for a few days, taking care that it
is well dissolved, and, again, some other reliable artificial manure may be used.
I prefer to mix in the water before using rather than to spread the manure
on the surface and wash it in. ‘Towards the end of summer, provided all has
gone well, the vines will be well developed and the wood will be hard,
growth having practically ceased. When this is the case more air must be
given and a cooler temperature maintained until the vines, towards the end of
August, are placed in a warm and sheltered position out-of-doors, where the canes
can be fastened to some improvised trellis to prevent their being blown about.
They must still be carefully looked after as regards watering, and if plunged in
ashes, so much the better, the roots will be cooler and more moist and less
water will be necessary. After the leaves have fallen and winterly weather is
probable, they should be removed to a light shed or some other cool structure,
and there remain until wanted to start into growth again, taking care not to
expose the pots to frost. To grow a pot vine from a bud in one season
strong enough to produce a crop of fruit the following year is not easy,
still it is quite possible. The majority of pot vines offered for sale are
really two years old, that is, they are grown in 7-inch pots the first year,

236 THE FRUIT GARDEN

cut back to one bud close to the ground and grown on again the follow-
ing year, when, as a rule, they make strong useful canes by the end of the
season.

VARIETIES OF GRAPES
: Brack

BLACK HAMBURGH.—There are several distinct varieties of this grape, and at least
three are sufficiently so to receive different names. These are the Black Hamburgh, the
Frankenthal Hamburgh, and the Mill Hill Hamburgh. Soils and conditions of growth
so often alter the appearance of grapes that if these three varieties were grown under
different conditions and shown together it would be difficult to recognise any one.
However, all three are excellent. The true Black Hamburgh is the old Hampton Court
vine. The bunches and berries produced on this veteran tree are small, it is true, but
for richness and sweetness of flavour they surpass any other Hamburgh I have tasted.
This variety is not so large in berry or so heavy in bunch as the other two.

FRANKENTHAL HAMBURGH.—Is distinguished by its noble-looking bunches, immense
berries, and their dense black bloom. It is vigorous, and regularly bears heavy crops.
Dr. Hogg gives the following description of the berries : ‘ Roundish, frequently oblate,
sometimes hammered and scarred ; skin thick, adhering to the flesh ; deep black purple;
flesh firm, and often forming a hollow cell round the seeds, juicy, sugary, sprightly, and
richly flavoured.” This is an excellent description of the variety, as I can testify from
my experience of it at Chatsworth, where the true Frankenthal is grown.

MILL HILL HAMBURGH.—At Chatsworth the true form of this also was grown. In
some respects it is the best of the three. For rich flavour it is almost equal to the Black
Hamburgh ; in size of berry and bunch it is as large as the Frankenthal, but does not
colour so well or develop so dense a bloom. The foliage of this vine is easily distinguished
by its large size and generally drooping appearance. For summer and autumn dessert
there is no black grape, taking it in all respects, to equal Black Hamburgh. It is also
one of the easiest grapes to grow—the ideal grape for amateurs. By hard forcing it
may be had ripe at the end of April, and by retarding the growth of later vines it may be
had in good condition at Christmas.

MADRESFIELD COURT.—As a black grape this unquestionably comes next in point of
merit. Some would even place it before the above. When well grown and properly
finished it is extremely handsome, and certainly one of the best exhibition varieties of the
day. It was raised at Madresfield Court by the then gardener, Mr. Cox, and is said to
be a cross between “ Muscat of Alexandria” and “ Black Morocco.” The bunches are
long and tapering, the berries large and oval, and when grown to perfection the bloom
upon them is intense and beautiful. Asarule the bunches weigh from two to four pounds
each. The flesh is tender, greenish, rich, juicy, and distinctly Muscat flavoured. It is
an easily grown grape, yet many find a difficulty in overcoming the tendency the berries
have of cracking when almost fully developed. I have not experienced difficulty in this
respect myself, in consequence, I believe, of well cropping the vines and having more or
less air on the house night: and day just before the grapes colour, with a little heat in the
pipes. Itis a summer and autumn grape, and not recommended for winter and spring.

MuscaT HAMBURGH.—For high quality and richness of flavour this variety is unsur-
passed, and when grown to perfection one of the most handsome black grapes. Grand for
exhibition, where it will always carry maximum points when well shown. It is, however,
difficult to grow, and is therefore only sparingly cultivated. It should be grafted on the
Black Hamburgh or Muscat of Alexandria.

GROsS GUILLAUME.—Often misnamed Barbarossa. This is a well-known, handsome
grape, not so commogly or so well grown as it used to be years ago. It is one of those
varieties that will not succeed under the close-pruning system ; when pruning, the shoots
must be left 6 or 7 inches long, with several buds. The extension system of culture is
recommended ; the bunches are often 2 feet long and 18 inches across the shoulders.

GRAPE LADY HUTT.

GRAPE GROS COLMAR.

THE VINE 237

The berries are round and of a good size, and when well grown take on a lovely bloom;
the flavour is sweet and refreshing. It is a late grape, and its best season is January.
Not an amateur’s grape.

BLACK PRINCE.—A grape now seldom seen or heard of. Thirty years ago none
was more frequently seen on the exhibition table. The bunch is long and tapering, the
berries of medium size and covered with dense blue-black bloom. The flavour is crisp
and sweet. It is an easily grown grape, and succeeds well in an orchard house.

Mrs. PINCE’s BLACK MuscaT.—This is a late grape of the finest quality, and a true
Muscat. Thevine is hardy and a good bearer ; it “sets” freely, but as a rule it does not
colour satisfactorily, always finishing off with a greenish-black hue, not at all attractive or
pleasant to look at. Hence it is seldom grown.

BLack ALICANTE,—A standard late grape for private or for commercial use. It
is the easiest of all grapes to grow, and no grape we have will give a more generous
return for the little attention it needs. It is the amateur’s grape in winter as is the Ham-
burgh in summer. The bunches attain a large size under good cultivation, and so do the
berries, and these carry a perfect bloom. When this grape is perfectly ripe the flavour is
refreshing and sweet. It will keep in good condition until April if the shoot cut with the
bunch is immersed in a bottle of water and placed in a cool, dark fruit-room.

Gros CoLmMarR.—Dr. Hogg’s description of this grape (as given in the “Fruit
Manual”) is so good that I quote it: “Bunches very large, berries very large, skin
rather tough, adhering closely to the flesh; dark purple or black; flesh coarse, juicy, and
sweet, and of a flavour that cannot be called either rich or agreeable.” When well grown
and properly finished this is certainly one of the noblest-looking grapes we have, and there is
no wonder that on account of its good looks the public prefer it to all other late black grapes,
ignoring its comparatively poor flavour. In consequence of this patronage of the public
it has become the market grape par excellence for winter dessert. There are hundreds of
tons of it grown in the neighbourhood of London alone. This and Alicante are the two
best market grapes of the day. To grow Gros Colmar to perfection it requires a long
season and a good command of artificial heat to help ripening early in the autumn.
The flavour improves by keeping ; will keep in good condition even longer than Alicante.

Gros Maroc.—This is a grape not unlike the above in appearance, but the berries
are oval and ripen earlier. The bunches are usually lumpy, the berries very large ;
the bloom on the berries is intense and of a purple-black hue. The flavour is refresh-
ing and sweet, but not particularly good. It is a variety that colours very quickly,
and for this reason is favoured by some gardeners as a useful sort for late summer and
early autumn for exhibition purposes. It does not keep so well as Gros Colmar.

ALNWICK SEEDLING.—A handsome late exhibition grape, of moderate quality. It
crops freely, and needs to be fertilized with Black Hamburgh pollen. The flavour is
peculiar and liked by many.

LADY DOWNE’S SEEDLING.—The latest grape of all, keeping well in the grape room
until the end of May or even into June, when fresh grapes are again ripe and plentiful.
For consumption in February, March, and April it is a very valuable variety. At that
late period its quality and flavour are excellent. The flesh is firm and juicy, the flavour
rich, sweet, and most pleasant; the best flavoured late black grape we have. This
variety is a good grower and prolific, but the bunches and berries are not so handsome
and large as some other late grapes; for this reason it is not remunerative for market
culture. Its size and appearance may be improved by grafting on Muscat of Alexandria.

WuitEe anD GOLDEN GRAPES

MuscaT OF ALEXANDRIA must take precedence. It is not too much to say of it,
when exhibited in perfect condition and of a beautiful transparent amber colour, that
no grape is so well liked or so much admired. The variety offers no serious difficulty
in the way of successful cultivation. It bears as heavily as any variety we have,
and if carefully looked after and not overcropped, lives to a good old age, especially
if the extension system of culture be adopted. The house in which it is grown should

238 THE FRUIT GARDEN

be provided with more hot-water pipes than is usual for ordinary grapes, for when
the vines are in flower, in order to secure a good set of fruit a rather high tem-
perature is an advantage. Again, during ripening it is of great value to be able to
give increased heat with plenty of air. Without this help and the precaution of not
overcropping, it is impossible to secure the best results. Immense quantities of this
grape are grown for the London market, and it is in season from the end of June to the
middle of March. It commands the highest price in the market. The vine is rather
subject to red spider. This is its greatest enemy, and every precaution must therefore
be taken to prevent its appearance. When possible it should have a vinery to itself.
There are two other distinct and excellent golden Muscats: one is Bowood and the
other Canon Hall. The above remarks as regards culture will apply equally to the
requirements of these two.

BowooD MuscaT is a stronger grower, and is hardier than Muscat of Alexandria.
The berries are slightly larger and rounder in shape, but the flavour is not so rich or
sweet.

CaNON HaLiL.—This is a distinct and handsome grape, a seedling from Muscat of
Alexandria, which it resembles, excepting that the bunches are much longer, and the
berries larger and rather rounder in form. Considerable skill is required to grow this
grape successfully, the chief difficulty being to obtain a proper set of fruit. It has not
the rich and exquisite flavour of Muscat of Alexandria.

FOSTER’S SEEDLING.—This, as a white grape, is the sheet anchor of the vine grower
who wants early white grapes. It forces as well as, or better than, the Black Ham-
burgh, and both succeed under the same conditions and treatment. Flavour sweet and
refreshing.

BUCKLAND SWEETWATER.—This is a handsome summer grape of refreshing and
delicious flavour. It also forces well, but for early forcing Foster’s Seedling is preferable.

GOLDEN HAMBURGH.—In size of bunch and berry this resembles Black Hamburgh.
It is one of the most handsome golden summer varieties, a beautiful amber colour when
ripe. The flesh is melting and juicy, the flavour rich and very sweet. A fine exhibition
variety and easily grown, but will only remain in good condition a short time after it is ripe.

DUKE OF BUCCLEUCH.—The largest-berried white grape ; when grown to perfection
strikingly handsome. The berries are very large, globular, and of a beautiful pale amber
colour. It is not so generally grown as it ought to be, and this is accounted for by the
fact that it is not a consistent cropper. I think its occasional failure to produce a crop
is due chiefly to the proper method of culture not being understood. It makes strong
and sappy growth, and should occupy a light warm house facing south, so that ripening
of the wood is assured. It must be grown on the extension system. It is useless to
expect good crops of fruit from this variety if the spurs are pruned back to one or two
buds. It isa summer and autumn grape, and must be served for dessert as soon as
ripe. The berries becoine spotted and decay at the stalk if kept long after they are ripe.
It should be grown in a shallow, porous border, receiving plenty of water in summer,
and the border in winter should be well protected from excessive rain. :

GOLDEN CHAMPION.—This is the result of a cross between Mill Hill Hamburgh
and Bowood Muscat, and, like Duke of Buccleuch, was raised by the late Mr. Wm.
Thomson, of Clovenfords. It has large oval berries, and the bunches are usually more
symmetrical and larger.than those of Duke of Buccleuch. Of the two I prefer the
latter. The same method of culture suits the two grapes.

CHASSELAS NAPOLEON.—This is a handsome variety well worth growing in any
collection of amber-coloured summer or autumn grapes. Like Madresfield Court, its
berries are apt to crack before ripening. Free ventilation, fair cropping, with warmth in
the pipes, will obviate this. Flavour sweet, juicy, and refreshing.

Mrs. PEARSON.—This is a variety that is in cultivation to a limited extent only. Its
flavour undoubtedly entitles it to rank among the best, but unfortunately it is not of
attractive appearance when ripe. The bunch attains a good size, and is symmetrical.
The berries are of medium size, but of a dingy, opaque, amber colour, not at all pleasing
to look at. The flesh is firm and the flavour rich. It requires Muscat treatment.

GRAPE GROS GUILLAUME.

GRAPE MADRESFIELD COURT.

THE VINE 239

There are other amber-coloured late grapes of imposing size and handsome
appearance, For instance, Child of Hale, Raisin de Calabre, Trebbiano, White
Nice, Syrian, Tokay, and others were formerly much grown. They were all
very well in their way, and satisfied the craving for large bunches, but they
have not the same value for dessert as moderate-sized bunches, and the flavour
is not first-rate. The best is Tokay, a variety that is still worthy of a home
in a collection of winter grapes.

SOME NEGLECTED GRAPES

It will, I think, be generally acknowledged that for rich and delicious flavour
the Frontignans must be placed first. Of these there are several varieties, the
best of which are the following three: the Black, Grisly, and White. They
are a very modest trio as regards size of vine, bunch, and berry, and also as
regards their cultural requirements. They succeed best in moderately poor
soil of a porous nature. They are not expensive to grow, and succeed well
with little or no artificial heat ; their foliage is small, and occupies but little
space.

BLACK CLUSTER.—This crops very freely and is a good setter. Its bunches are
rather small but very compact. Berries oval and black. Flesh firm, juicy, and sweet,
and of good flavour. Suitable for outside walls.

BLACK FRONTIGNAN.—A good free-cropping variety of excellent flavour. Its
bunches and berries are of medium size, round, and black. Flesh firm and juicy.

BLack MONUKKA.—This produces large bunches and berries, but the flavour is only
third-rate, and not to be recommended.

CHAPTAL.—A white grape, not unlike Golden Hamburgh. It forms handsome bunches
of good size and flavour, but the flesh is very soft.

CHASSELAS NAPOLEON.—This is one of the best, and deserves to be more extensively
grown. It forms a handsome bunch, is a free setter, and the flavour is excellent. Berries
oval, of medium size, becoming pale golden when ripe.

CHASSELAS ROSE.—This variety is remarkable for its excellent flavour, not unlike
Muscat of Alexandria. Its bunches are large and compact, with large round pale yellow
berries. Flesh juicy and sweet.

CHASSELAS ROUGE forms a medium-sized somewhat loose bunch. The berries are
small, tawny red, very juicy, and sweet.

FERDINAND DE LESSEPS.—This is a very small, pretty, and deliciously sweet amber-
coloured grape, not unlike Royal Muscadine in size of bunch and berry, but the colour
is more golden. This is one of the parents of Mrs. Pearson, and, like it, possesses a
distinct, sweet, and refreshing flavour, not so rich as that of the Muscat, but richer than
the ordinary Sweetwater. This is the result of a cross between the Strawberry Grape
and Royal Muscadine.

MADEIRA FRONTIGNAN.—This produces medium-sized compact bunches with reddish
purple berries. Flesh juicy and sweet, and of good flavour.

MEURTHE FRONTIGNAN.—This is of excellent flavour, which very much resembles
the Muscat. It has medium-sized bunches, with large round berries, which are quite
black. Its flesh is very firm and sweet.

PRUNELAS is a fairly good black grape, of medium size, and a good cropper. The
flesh is firm and sweet, with a peculiar but not unpleasant flavour.

ROYAL MUSCADINE.—This does remarkably well out-of-doors on a south wall. It
develops fairly large bunches: Berries large and round, which when ripe are a beautiful
amber. The flavour is rich and delicious.

240 THE FRUIT GARDEN

SALAMON’S FRONTIGNAN is of medium size both in berry and bunch. It is a white
grape of a somewhat Muscat flavour.

San ANTONIA.—This produces fine bunches, somewhat resembling Madresfield
Court in appearance. The berries are purplish black, large, and oval. Flesh tender,
juicy, and sweet, with good flavour. Like Madresfield Court, it is a bad keeper.

STRAWBERRY GRAPE.—The shoots, leaves, and bunches are small, and the berries
only the size of a good black currant, as black as sloes, with a deep purple bloom.
It is impossible to describe the flavour ; it is a mixture of Muscat, Frontignan, Pine, and
Strawberry. An American grape.

SYRIAN.—This is a strong grower, and produces immense bunches. Berries large,
oval, and pale yellow when ripe. Flesh very firm and sweet. It is a good late grape,
and keeps well when properly ripened.

WEsT’s ST. PETERS.—As a late grape this has much to recommend it, especially to
those who prefer quality to size and appearance. The berries are rather small and
black. The flavour is brisk and pleasant. This grape is in season until the end of
February.

All the above are easily grown in cool houses, except West’s St. Peters,

which requires a high temperature to develop it perfectly.

GRAPES OF RECENT INTRODUCTION

The varieties of grapes already in existence are so numerous and so excellent
in every respect that there is scarcely any room left for a new improved variety.
Moreover the raisers of such have usually some difficulty in turning it to profit-
able account. However, several new ones have been raised during recent
years, but not one, so far as I know, of superlative excellence. Among the best
are Lady Hutt and Appley Towers. These have proved themselves to be useful
acquisitions, and are now well established in public favour. Lady Hutt is a
white late variety of good flavour and appearance, and will keep a long time.
Appley Towers is a late black variety, intermediate between Gros Colmar and
Alicante. It is as free bearing as the latter with rather larger berries, and it
colours better and much easier than Gros Colmar. The following also have
been put forward as aspirants to public favour, but their value has not yet
been sufficiently established for us to recommend them to our readers: Lady
Hastings, Black Duke, Diamond Jubilee, and Prince of Wales.

VINE CULTURE IN COLD HOUSES

We have several excellent varieties of grapes that can be grown successfully
in an unheated vinery, provided the border has been well made, the vines
carefully planted, and that they receive reasonable care and attention afterwards.
When no fire heat is available the vine grower will need to exercise much
care in controlling the ventilators, bearing in mind that he has to depend
entirely on sun heat for the development of the vines. It is only by the
intelligent and careful regulation of the ventilators that most can be made of
sun heat. The details of work during the season of growth will be practi-
cally the same as recommended for the vine under the usual conditions. It is
important not to hasten the vine into growth early in spring on account of
the cold nights at this time of year. .The ist of April is a good day on

THE VINE 241

which to close the vinery. This term “closing the vinery” is well understood
amongst gardeners. To the amateur I would say that it refers to the first
occasion on which heat is applied to the vine to cause it to commence growth.
The ventilators should be closed early enough in the afternoon to make the
temperature rise to 75 degs., or even 80 degs. for an hour or two. It will soon
cooldown. A reliable thermometer must, of course, be fixed in the vinery, and
in such a position that the sun cannot possibly shine on it, or it will not indicate
correctly the heat of the atmosphere. The thermometer must be carefully
watched, as it will be the compass, as it were, by which to steer the vines to
a successful issue. Before the house is closed the vines, walls, and borders
should be well syringed. In the morning, as soon as the thermometer
registers about 60 degs., a little top air must be admitted ; later, towards 9 a.M.,
as the sun gains power, more top air must be given, so that the temperature
shall not rise higher than from 70 to 75 degs. It is better not to open the
front ventilators at all until danger of cold winds has passed away, and only a
little even then if the temperature can be kept within limits by means of air
admitted through the top ventilators. As the season advances and the air
becomes warm, the same caution is not so essential in regard to front ventila-
tion, but the grower must always bear in mind that it is sun heat only he has
to depend upon to develop and ripen the crop. Never forget to close the
vinery after syringing in the afternoon in time to make the temperature rise to
75 or 80 degs. Fahr. A supply of water must be kept in the house, so that it
may be warm. Syringing with cold water might check growth. The follow-
ing varieties are excellent for this purpose :—(Biack) Black Hamburgh,
Madresfield Court, Black Frontignan (small), Early Royal Ascot, Black
Alicante, Black Prince; (Wirz) Golden Hamburgh, Foster’s Seedling,
Buckland Sweetwater, Ferdinand de Lesseps, Royal Muscadine, Chasselas
Napoleon.

GRAPE CULTURE FOR MARKET

During the past few years the culture of grapes for market has undergone
great changes. Many acres of land are now covered with glass-houses, princi-
pally in the north of London, the neighbourhood of Worthing, and in the
Channel Islands, and the supplies sent to market are enormous. “[‘wenty or
thirty years ago grapes fetched regularly as much as 20s. or 25s. per |b.,
5s. or 10s. per lb. were considered quite ordinary prices. In 1896 Mr.
Peter Kay wrote that the prices obtained varied from 6d, to 5s., and those
now ruling are even lower still. Mr. Kay’s remarks in a paper read before
the Horticultural Club, and reprinted in The Garden, upon how to start
a market nursery, are worthy of reproduction: “That land is best which
has soil 2 to 3 feet deep, resting upon a subsoil easily drained. There should
be ample means for obtaining an abundance of water, and equally ample means
for getting rid of the same. Whether the land is pasture or arable is not vital,
but, of course, preferably pasture ; then its closeness to means of communica-
tion must be considered, especially with regard to fuel and carriage of produce
to market, and these things may vary so much in different localities that, with

Q

242 THE FRUIT GARDEN

all the best conditions appertaining to it, an acre may be cheap at £300, where
in another locality it would be dear at £100. Other things being equal with
regard to the fitness of vine growing for profit, it is wise to give preference to
land likely to improve into building land. We will suppose the enterprising
grower has secured land he thinks suitable for the purpose, then he will proceed
towards the erection of the vineries. Early autumn would probably be the best
time to begin, so that the houses might be glazed in readiness for the early
spring. The first glass to build is a propagating-house supplied with bottom
heat. Then the grower must think of the sorts of vines to grow, whether
Hamburgh, Alicante, Gros Colmar, Muscat of Alexandria, and, if he is of a
speculative turn, Canon Hall. These varieties are nearly the only ones that
a commercial grower ought to go in for. The other varieties that are grown
in less quantities are Madresfield Court and Gros Maroc. Appley Towers and
other new sorts remain to be proved ; but the beginner must not experiment
too much, but grow tested sorts. In my opinion, Alicante, taken as a whole,
has been the most profitable variety to grow, not even excepting Muscat of
Alexandria and Canon Hall. My own experience is that, taking houses of
equal size, one planted with Alicante, one with Gros Colmar, and one with
Canon Hall, and taking, say, five years’ results of sales, Alicante would come
out best, Gros Colmar next, then Muscat of Alexandria, and last, Canon Hall.
This is against the general belief, but is true in my experience, for Muscats
hardly make up for the lesser weight obtained from them; then there is the
extra waste in marketing, and their special liability to red spider and shanking.
The grower of vines for profit must erect his glass-house with the greatest
economy, and with no further idea than that of covering in the greatest area
with glass upon the simplest system consistent with strength and practical
usefulness.”

If ground can be secured where there is a good depth of loam, a consider-
able saving of labour will be effected in making the vine borders. In a
nursery in Scotland where grapes are grown for market, the land is so well
suited to the growth of the vines that they are simply planted in the natural
soil, there is no made border whatever. It is only in exceptional situations,
however, that this is possible. Mr. Kay’s remarks as to the vine borders, &c., are
also well worth studying : “With regard to the profitable life of a vine, it may
vary from ten to twenty years, according to the sort of border that is made.
Houses built together with only inside borders will not carry the vines through
more than ten years profitably ; whereas when they can root in well-made
outside borders, their life and vigour are doubled. What I specially mean by
outside borders is, not that the vines should be planted outside and introduced
into the house through the wall, as was the old practice, but that the border
should be both inside and out, the front of the house resting on piers or arches.
Then, by planting the vines inside, a far better start is assured, and they will
soon ramble outside, where the sun and air more naturally prepare a congenial
place for them. ‘The market grower makes the best use of the material he has
at hand, and in some cases where the soil is very heavy adds to it London
manure for the sake of its mechanical effect, and bone-meal of first quality. A

“LINSVE AIVI NI SHIPND TINVOITV

LaANUP RH aOt MAdNrH NI GaNOVd LANSVA AA

TANTO Pre, ert EVILS ee

Ditmas

THE VINE 243

commercial vine grower does not often use }-inch or larger bones, as a quicker
return is possible from more soluble bone-meal. Moreover, cultivators do not
so much rely on the depth and richness of soil as upon frequent top-dressings,
thus encouraging the roots near the surface. The drainage of a border is very
important, and it must be of such a nature as not to allow stagnation, or so free
as to permit the border to be much weakened. The practice of the future
will probably be towards shallower borders, i.e. not exceeding 2 feet 6 inches
in depth.

‘Other plants are nearly always grown in the houses until the vines come
into bearing, and at the present time tomato culture is largely practised. The
grower, therefore, as well as raising young vines ready for the spring, must
arrange for having tomato plants ready also, If it were not possible while
the vines are growing to tide over the first two years with other crops in the
houses, it would be much more difficult than it is to establish a vineyard under
glass. “The young vines properly grown should be about 2 feet high by the
middle of May, and then is a good time to plant them in the border which has
been prepared for them. At the time of planting bone-meal is a good dressing
to mix with the soil, and short manure should be used as a mulching on the
top. ‘They will require careful and constant attention until they make new
roots, and abundance of clear water during the growing season through June,
July, and August. By the end of August growth ought to be discouraged, and
the vine led more to develop the wood already made. When vines are strong
at planting time, and given liberal treatment through their first year, they
sometimes grow 20 and even 25 feet long. Indeed, I have seen vines cropped
the first year after planting bearing 10 lbs. of fruit. But this is not wise where
the establishment of permanent vines is intended, as the loss of vigour can be
noted in such vines for years afterwards.

“There is one aspect in vine culture that requires careful weighing from its
commercial side, and that is the question of extension v. restriction. Jam bound
to say that the extension system of culture affords in the end far better results.
How often it occurs to one that our mechanically constructed houses impose
restriction even on vines treated under what is called the extension system.
When a vine attains the age of four years, it would easily, with benefit to its
health and wealth, double itself in one season if the structure which covers it
could be enlarged there and then. Constitution is the chief thing to strive for
in cultivating the vine, and this leads to the thought of fertilisers for the vine.
First get constitution, and then we may proceed to intense culture. The
many artificially compounded mixtures recommended as concentrated food
for the vine are mostly very well suited for it, and for some localities they
may even be perfect ; but where localities differ so much in the character of
their soil and other conditions, universally to apply one mixture would be
folly.

“Tt is difficult conscientiously to givea rosy aspect generally to the business
of grape-growing under the conditions as they are at present, and I cannot
fairly estimate that in the future there is any likelihood of a rise in the price of
grapes. No doubt there will be always good and, indeed, remunerative prices

244 THE FRUIT GARDEN

for the very best samples, but we all know that such first grade fruit is a
small proportion of the great bulk sent to market.”

Packinc Grapes FoR Marxket.—This is an important matter, for grapes
usually have to travel some considerable distance before reaching market, and it
is very essential they should arrive in the best of condition. The bunches are
usually cut with a portion of the shoot attached ; this may be left about 4 inches
long. Various kinds of baskets are used, but those in general favour are known
as “baby” baskets. As a packing material, wood shavings, or “ wood wool,”
as it is sometimes called, is used. A little of this is placed in the baskets, and
then covered with white or pink tissue paper. The finest bunches are laid
around the sides of the baskets, and the stems are made secure to the basket
rims. ‘They must be close together so that they do not move. “I'welve pounds
of grapes is an average weight for a basket, some are more, some less; but the
exact weight is given with the basket before the fruit is sent to market. When
the baskets are packed they are placed in flat hampers specially made to receive
them. ‘They are of such a size that the “baby” baskets just fit into them,
thus preventing any possibility of movement. The illustrations given of the
baby basket packed, and also placed in the hamper ready for travelling to
market, will give a good idea of the method employed. Some of our best
grapes now go to America, and find a good market there. A few years ago a
brisk trade was also commenced with France, but the heavy duties imposed have
practically closed that market to English grapes.

FerritisaTion.—The flowering of the vine is easily detected by the
delicious scent given off as soon as the cap which covers the stamens of
the flower falls. Usually fertilisation will take place without artificial aid.
While the vine is in flower the atmosphere of the house should be kept dry and
warm. In the course of a week after the first flowers appear, all the vines will
be in bloom, and in another week the berries will have formed and be ready
for thinning. It is a good plan to shake the trellis once or twice about noon
to distribute the pollen and make sure of its coming in contact with the
stigmas, thereby securing proper fertilisation. With some few varieties of
grapes perfect fertilisation of the flowers cannot be effected without artificial
help. The Muscats are instances. Muscat Hamburgh is the most shy
“setter.” Canon Hall also “sets” badly. To help such varieties to “set,”
draw the hands over the flowers, thereby removing the capsules and liberating
the pollen, Also collect some pollen as it falls in a piece of paper, and throw
it back with some force against the bunch. Should Black Hamburgh or some
other free “setting” variety be in flower at the same time, better results will
follow by using its pollen on Muscats.

Grape Tuinninc.—The first thing to do after obtaining a good “set” is
to reduce the number of bunches to as many as the vine may carry, of course
selecting those likely to be the most symmetrical. Thinning the berries must
then be commenced. At the first thinning the berries of all varieties may be
thinned to half an inch apart. At the second thinning discretion must be exer-
cised and the particular variety considered. Before the worker puts scissors to.
bunch at all he must learn to differentiate between the fertilised and the un-

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lata lnspifl

“HMOHS AYNAGSMAYHS LF ATAPI LYASSIT GCALFMOIIT P

THE VINE 245

fertilised berries. This will be apparent in the course of a few days, as the latter
will remain small, while those fertilised will, even in the course of a day or two,
make appreciable progress. It goes without saying, therefore, that the small
berries must be cut out first ; afterwards any berries that cross one another in
the centre of the bunch, leaving them, as I said before, half an inch apart. The
best way of keeping the bunch steady while thinning goes on is to select a berry
towards the base of the bunch which can be spared after the bunch is thinned,
and take hold of it with the left hand,
pulling downwards slightly until the work
is done, afterwards cutting off the berry,
as it would be tarnished and of no use.
This answers excellently for small bunches,
but for long ones and those with heavy
shoulders a forked stick is necessary. There
is a special make of scissors for the purpose,
in several sizes; I prefer the small ones.
They must be kept sharp and clean, so
that no pulling at the berries with blunt
blades or tarnishing them with dirty ones

enw AN

may take place. The bunch must not be “7 (S/p r) ( 6: FOAWD
turned round to suit the worker’s position, OO A O O Ww, Fe ( ) 3
but he must move round the bunch, taking oS, lie A Ny “ )
care not to touch the berries with the Np on

a

head, hands, or clothes, or they will be
disfigured permanently. After the first
thinning is over the grapes will swell
rapidly, and it will be necessary to go
over the bunches again ; if, however, the
first thinning is carefully done there will
not be very much to do afterwards. If
the grapes are forced early the berries will
not be large when ripe, so that this must
be remembered when thinning and the
berries left more thickly. With mid-season
and late grapes a greater distance must be
left between each berry, varying accord-
ing to the ultimate size. Gros Colmar,
Gros Maroc, and the Duke of Buccleuch, for instance, require double the space
sufficient for smaller varieties.

In thinning a bunch of grapes the worker should have in mind a picture of
the bunch as he would wish it to appear when fully developed. In growing
grapes for exhibition it is especially important that the berries should be
thinned carefully. When fully developed they should rest firmly upon one
another without undue pressure. It is as easy to err by leaving too many
berries in the bunch as in having too few. The way to avoid this is carefully
to observe the bunches as the berries swell, and to remove a berry from that

BUNCH OF GRAPES NOT THINNED

246 THE FRUIT GARDEN

part of the bunch where undue congestion is noticed. The removal of one
berry will often cause relief to half-a-dozen.

PERIopD oF Srontnc.—This takes place when the berries are little more than
half-grown, and then the temperature of the vinery should be reduced by 5 degs.
and more air admitted. The “stoning” period is indicated by an arrest in the
growth of the berries; they
appear hardly to increase in
size for a fortnight or three
weeks ; by occasionally cutting
through a berry the progress in
the formation of the stone may
be observed. All the varieties
that I know, excepting Lady
Downe’s Seedling, will pass
through the stoning period
without trouble. ‘The skin of
the berries of this variety is then
very liable to be “scorched,” a
term used to express damage to
the berry causing it to shrivel
slightly and turn black, a
damage that is fatal to the
quality and appearance of the
grape. The best remedy for
this, as I said before, is more
air, not only during the day, but
a little must be admitted both
through, the top and bottom
ventilators during the night.

Tue Rireninc PEerrop.—
The berries of the grape grow
most rapidly during the time
between the completion of
stoning and full development,

BUNCH PROPERLY THINNED and the grower then must be

on the alert and take care

that the vine does not suffer from want of water at the roots or from
insufficient moisture in the atmosphere. It is a good plan to give a
top-dressing (2 or 3 inches deep) upon the inside border of fresh horse
manure (with a little soil added). It is wonderful how quickly the sur-
face roots multiply in this material, and the atmosphere is more or less
enriched by the ammonia emitted. Before the final swelling of the grapes the
grower will do well to consider whether the crop is too heavy for the vine to
develop perfectly. If he thinks it is, then a few bunches should be removed
before it is too late. It assists the development of the berries to damp the house
at closing time with liquid manure diluted with water. But the greatest aid to

THE VINE 247

the perfect finish of the bunch and berry at this period is an abundance of sturdy,
large, and healthy foliage; without this the best grapes cannot be grown.
Therefore every effort must be directed not only to produce such leaves, but
also to protect them from harm by the ravages of insects. I have before given
directions as to the importance of the timely and systematic stopping of all sub-
lateral growth at the second or third leaf ; they should not be allowed to grow
wild, as is often the case, and then be cut out in armfuls at atime. But if the
best leaves of the vine are seriously damaged by red spider or from any other
cause, then the sub-lateral growths must be encouraged, as it is useless to expect
perfect development and finish in the absence of an abundance of foliage, and this
is particularly so in the case of black grapes. Some moisture in the atmosphere
may be given until the grapes are partially coloured ; it must be then gradually
diminished, finally keeping the vinery perfectly dry, admitting air when the
weather is favourable, and having the pipes warm. When one desires to hasten
the ripening of Muscats for exhibition or other purposes, this may be effected by
tying back some of the leaves and partially exposing the bunches.

STORING Grapgs.—As soon as Christmas is past all late grapes hanging on the
vines should be cut off with a piece of shoot (below the bunch) attached, long
enough to insert in a bottle of water or some other receptacle provided for the pur-
pose. In many gardens grape-rooms, properly fitted up, are provided. In smaller
gardens where these are not available grapes can be kept well for months by
placing the shoot attached to the bunch in a bottle of water and fixing the bottles
on a rack, similar to a wine rack, but with a piece of wood at the edge to raise the
neck of the bottle slightly so that the water will not run out. A cellar or room
where the temperature never falls below 45 or 50 degs. Fahrenheit, and where it
is dark, will suit admirably. A very dry room must be avoided, for evaporation
would be too rapid. The water in the bottles must be changed occasionally
and kept perfectly fresh; a piece of charcoal put in is a useful means to this end.
The bunches should not be placed too closely together, and should be examined
once or twice a week to see that there are no decayed or decaying berries; these
when found must be carefully removed at once.

APPROXIMATE TEMPERATURES FOR EARLY FORCING

Maximum (by Day). Minimum (by Night).
November . 3 from 57 to 62 degs. Fahr. from 54 to 57 degs. Fahr.
December. ; » 60 to 64 J » 55 to 58 #
January . ‘ ‘ 5, 65 to 68 5 » 57 to 60 5
February : : » 68 to 7I 35 » 60 to 63 9
March . : ; » 70t074 x » 64 to 67 53
April. ‘ ‘ » 72 to 76 Fe 5 65 to 68 "3
May * * ‘i ” 75 to 78 ” ” 66 to 7° ”
June ° : = » 75 to 78 ” ” 66 to 79 ”

The above table is intended only as a guide to the temperatures necessary to
produce ripe grapes by the end of May after closing the house for forcing on the
1st November. On the afternoon of sunny days, when the vinery is closed and

248 THE FRUIT GARDEN

syringed, the temperature may be allowed to rise to 85 degs. with advantage,
from the end of March to the end of May. After the grapes are disposed of in
the course of the month of June, fire heat will be discontinued and air liberally
admitted night and day, and the temperature afterwards will be governed
more or less by the weather outside. For successional vines started later the
principle of working is similar, z.c. close the vinery with sun heat only for the
first fortnight, then give slight fire heat, and gradually increase the temperature
as growth advances. For late autumn or winter grapes little fire heat is needed,
excepting in late summer or autumn, to assist in ripening them and afterwards
to prevent the atmosphere becoming cold and damp.

THE VINE ON WALLS OUTDOORS

By THOMAS COOMBER

The vine is not very commonly grown upon walls outdoors in the British
Isles for the sake of its fruit ; nevertheless, there are many districts where if
thus planted it will flourish and produce fruit fit both for dessert and making
wholesome wine. ‘The wall should have a south or west aspect, and be fully
exposed to the sun, so that the wood or fruit can reap the full benefit of the
sun’s influence, which is essential to success. "The soil must also be suitable to
the vine’s requirements. A fertile deep loam naturally well drained is best, and
all the preparation such a soil wants to be made a satisfactory rooting medium is
to be trenched and broken up 2 feet deep; by incorporating a good supply of
crushed bones, wood ashes, and lime, or old mortar rubble, most soils are
rendered suitable for grape culture. Thorough draining is necessary.

Strong young canes may be planted early in October before the leaves fall,
or in spring when their buds are bursting; in either case they should be cut
down while dormant to three buds from the base. Carefully remove the soil
from about the roots, disentangling and regularly spreading them out not more
than 6 and not less than 2 inches below the surface ; this should be made quite
firm, and subsequently mulched with short litter. The vine succeeds best, and
is most simply managed when placed upon moderately high walls, with its
shoots trained 3 feet apart in a vertical position. It can be restricted to one rod
or more as desired, and planted accordingly at 3 feet or more apart. With the
single-rod system all growths but the strongest one should be removed ; train
this in position, and stop it when 3 feet long, allowing its subsequent leading

. growth to extend indefinitely, and stopping the laterals beyond one leaf. The
winter pruning merely consists in shortening the vine to within 3 feet of its
base at the point where it was checked, and closely cutting away the lateral
growths. ‘The following season the leading young shoot should receive similar
treatment, and the laterals arising beneath it be so disbudded that the strongest
of them only are left ; arrange them about 16 inches apart on either side of the
vine. They must be stopped so that they meet half-way those of the adjoining
canes, and the sub-laterals be pinched at the first leaf. At the winter pruning

THE VINE 249

the leading growth should be treated as before, while the laterals upon the older
part of the vine-stem are cut back to two prominent basal buds. ‘This method
of management gives sufficient space for the wood to become thoroughly ripened,
and should be followed until the allotted space is filled, after which time the
training and pruning will be wholly confined to the laterals. When vines have
more than one branch or “ rod,” each should be treated as if it were a separate vine.

Vines may be lightly cropped the third season after being planted, but at
no time should a lateral be permitted to carry more than one bunch, and the
weight of the fruit that established vines may carry must be governed by their
vigour and size ; overcropping, however, always has an enfeebling effect, and
impairs the quality of the fruit. ‘There is no better stimulant than the drainage
from cow sheds and stables, which can be applied in a diluted form during the
growing season as well as in the autumn after the fruit is gathered. ‘Top-
dressings of light soil, bone meal, or similar rich fertilisers used in the autumn,
are also of much value, while during seasons of drought, mulching the borders
with short litter is beneficial, The most virulent enemies that the vine on
walls outdoors is subject to, are red spider and mildew, but if the vines are kept
adequately supplied with nourishment, moisture at their roots, and properly
syringed with soft water in summer, attacks of red spider will be comparatively
rare. An efficient remedy for mildew, which is very injurious if permitted to
take its course, is the Bordeaux mixture ; this should be applied in a fine spray.
Flowers of sulphur, which should be distributed with a dredger, make a good
remedy also. Asa winter dressing after the vines have been pruned, and the
loose bark removed, Gishurst’s compound, used at the rate of 4 oz. to a
gallon of hot soft water, and well rubbed into the crevices, so that the whole
surface of the rods is thoroughly soaked, is a very effectual cleaner. Of varieties
“Sweet Water” is excellent for general purposes. Black Cluster and Royal
Muscadine are also useful. Reine Olga should be added; it is a novelty of
great excellence, and recently obtained an award of merit from the Royal
Horticultural Society. Its colour is tawny red, the bunches are large, while the
flavour is rich. For ornamental uses Vitis purpurea, Vitis Coignetiz, and the
Parsley-Leaved Vine are invaluable.

VINE CULTURE IN THE OPEN
By ANDREW PETTIGREW

The subject of vine culture in the open would hardly have found a place
in a work of this description a few years ago, when the only examples of vines
outdoors in this country were those growing against cottage walls, and regarded
more as decorative plants than fruit producers. “The experiment of the late
Marquess of Bute in planting vineyards on his estates in Glamorganshire, South
Wales, with which the readers of gardening periodicals are now familiar, has
quite proved the practicability of growing vines in the open asa more or less
remunerative undertaking, and it is on this account that the subject finds a
place in the present work.

250 THE FRUIT GARDEN

After more than twenty years’ experience I am of opinion that on suitable
sites in the south of England and in South Wales, furnished with proper appli-
ances for making the wine, and with every convenience to lessen labour, vine
culture could, taking one season with another, be made a paying industry, and
give employment to many. It is evident from the foregoing remarks that any
one contemplating hardy vine culture with a view to making wine must invest
a considerable sum of money in providing suitable plant, buildings for its
manufacture, and cellar accommodation for storage before there are any returns.
For these reasons, and the uncertainty of our climate, vine growing in the open
is a more expensive and risky undertaking than any other phase of hardy fruit
culture, and to be remunerative, must only be attempted in the southern
counties of England and South Wales. So far as I know the only establishment
where it is carried on as a business concern is in the Marquess of Bute’s vine-
yards. “To emphasise the fact that the experimental stage of hardy vine culture
in this country has long since been past, it may be as well now to give a short
history of the vineyards in question.

The first portion of the vineyard at Castell Coch, Glamorgan, was planted
in the spring of 1875 on the French system, as practised in the neighbourhood
of Paris, in Burgundy, and the champagne country, with the variety Gamay
Noir, a hardy grape which is grown extensively in the colder wine-producing
districts of France. “This variety has a strong constitution, fruits freely, and in
good seasons its fruit, which makes very good wine, ripens well. The ground
was thoroughly trenched, and the vines planted in rows from north to south
3 feet apart, 3 feet apart in the rows,and trained to stakes 4 feet high, as
raspberry plants are trained. As the canes grow they are securely tied to the
stakes, and their points pinched off when they have reached to within a few
inches of the top. All the lateral shoots, as soon as they appear, are stopped at
the first joint ; the stopping of sub-laterals is continued throughout the growing
season, and the tendrils are pinched off from the time the vines begin to grow.
This and hoeing, and keeping the ground clean, form the principal work in the
vineyard during the summer months. But stopping the lateral shoots gives
more work than all the other operations in the vineyard. In England the rainfall
is much greater than it isin France, and the vines in consequence grow more
strongly, and make more sub-lateral growth than they do in the French vine-
yards. Frenchmen visiting the vineyard at Castell Coch were struck with the
healthy appearance of the vines, and the vigorous growth they made, which,
they said, was stronger than that made in France.

The vines are pruned as soon as the leaves fall in the autumn, and the canes
cut close down, leaving from two to three buds of the current year’s growth.
This hard pruning is to keep the stools of the vines dwarf and close to the
ground, so that the grapes may get as much of the earth’s radiated heat as
possible. When the pruning is finished, and all the useless shoots cleared away,
the stakes are thoroughly examined, and all bad and doubtful ones replaced.
The surface of the ground between the rows is then slightly forked and top-
dressed with short manure. Manuring is done once in three years according to
circumstances, but the vineyard gets a slight dressing of soot every spring before

THE VINE 251

the vines start into growth. Nothing more is done to the vines until they
break into growth the following spring, when they are disbudded as soon as the
bunches are distinguished on the shoots, and from three to four shoots are
left on a plant, after which the same process of tying, stopping, and keeping
the ground clean, as described above, is carried out during the growing season.

From the time the first portion of the vineyard was planted, a piece was
added to it every year until the allotted space was completed. Cuttings 1 foot
long were made from the strongest and best of the prunings, and planted in
nursery rows as is done with gooseberry cuttings. In two years they made
good canes, and were planted out in their permanent quarters in the vineyard
the following spring. The first wine was made in 1877, and more or less
has been made every year since with two or three exceptions when the seasons
were bad.

The vintage of 1881 was of excellent quality, and the whole of it was sold
(except a few dozens) at 60s. per dozen to a wine merchant at Cardiff. Dr.
Lawson Tait, late of Birmingham, a noted connoisseur in wines, bought several
dozens of it from the wine merchant in question, some of which was sold by
auction at Birmingham the following year, and realised 115s. per dozen.

The late Lord Bute was so pleased with the results of the experiment at
Castell Coch, that I was instructed by him in 1886 to make further experiments
with the cultivation of the vine in different parts of his Welsh estates where it
was thought there was a probability of its succeeding. A site was selected at
Swanbridge, about seven miles from Cardiff, close to the shore of the Bristol
Channel, as a most likely place for a vineyard. Both the soil and situation
have been found suitable. ‘The vines grow well, and have produced excellent
crops of grapes almost every year since they were planted. The site is open and
less subject to mildew than Castell Coch, which is sheltered from the north by
a high wood. ‘The vineyard, when planting is finished, will contain about nine
acres of vines. Three parts of it have been planted, and about three acres of
the vines are in full bearing. In good seasons as many as forty hogsheads of
wine have been made, and for some years past the yield has not been less than
twenty-five to thirty hogsheads.

CHAPTER XX

FRUIT TREES AS FLOWERING TREES

By HUGH A. PETTIGREW

THE importance of apple, pear, plum, and cherry trees as fruit producers
has tended to obscure the fact that they are invaluable in the somewhat
minor character of ornamental flowering trees and shrubs. The very utility
of these trees has, so to speak, almost blinded us to their floral value, and so
much so, that their use in the pleasure ground, shrubbery, or any other position
than the fruit garden, would be regarded as a doubtful proceeding. Where the
end in view is the production of the best fruit then the fruit garden is cer-
tainly the place for these trees, but where floral beauty and picturesque effect
are the primary considerations, as in large shrubberies, fruit trees may and
ought to be used.

All our hardy fruit trees, with the exception of the currants (Rides), belong-
ing as they do to the rose family, produce an abundance of beautiful flowers,
and what still more enhances their value, they come into blossom at a period
of the year when shrubberies are dressed in their most sombre apparel, and the
ordinary border is almost bare. In the early days of spring it is impossible to
pass through the orchard or fruit garden without being greatly impressed with
the beauty and charm of the surrounding fruit trees in flower, even when the
mind is distracted by hopes and fears as to the successful consummation of
the display in a crop of fruit. If the beauty of fruit trees appeals to one so
much when seen in the formal fruit garden, where few, if any, contrasts exist,
and where the trees are planted in regular lines at set distances apart, how much
more intensely would it do so if the fruit trees were among other trees and
shrubs—amidst the many contrasts of form and colour to be seen in the most
ordinary shrubbery.

It is dificult to imagine a prettier spring picture than is provided by groups
of pyramidal fruit trees growing in a large shrubbery, with a foreground of
the dwarfer evergreens, and a background of dark-green conifers, with here and
there clumps of the sloe.

All kinds of hardy fruit trees are suitable for shrubbery planting, and when
once used in this way and their value realised, one wonders why they are not
more commonly seen outside the fruit garden. For many years past we have
seen pear, cherry, plum, almond, medlar, and apple trees used in the shrubbery,
and with the best results.

Having decided to plant fruit trees for their ornamental value, the question
naturally arises as to which are the best kinds and varieties to grow. In making

252

OLD WALL PEAR TREE 1N BLOSSOM.

THE WISE APPLE TREE (COURT PENDU PLAT) IN
FLOWER AT FROGMORE.

FRUIT TREES AS FLOWERING TREES 25%

a selection, several things have to be considered. First of all, if a prolonged
display of blossom is desired, and there is sufficient space at disposal, a selection
of varieties might be made from each of the genera previously mentioned,
remembering that as a general rule flowering takes place in the following
order: almond, peach, plum, cherry, pear, apple, and medlar. Then, again,
it may happen that although the primary object of growing fruit trees in the
shrubbery and pleasure grounds is for picturesque effect, yet the owner has
hopes that the blossom will be succeeded by a harvest of fruit. In such cases
varieties should be chosen which produce useful and at the same time showy
fruits. Consequently, in planting apple trees, we would choose those sorts that
are free-bearing, and whose fruits are of the brightest colours. Irish Peach,
Worcester Pearmain, Cox’s Orange Pippin, King of the Pippins, Ribston
Pippin, Astrachan, are all free-flowering varieties, having beautifully coloured
first quality fruits. Lord Suffield, Ecklinville Seedling, Warner’s King, and
Keswick Codlin, although producing poorly coloured fruits, nevertheless are
invaluable for this work on account of their profuseness of flowering and large
individual blossoms. ‘The various Crabs ought also to find a place among such
a collection as we are considering, for few fruits make a more brilliant display
in the autumn months.

In the choice of pears the colour of the fruits is not important, so that
floriferousness and quality of fruit remain the chief considerations. Marie
Louise, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Duchesse d’Angouléme, Pitmaston Duchess,
and Jargonelle are all free-flowering hardy varieties producing useful fruits,
and on the whole could hardly be improved upon for shrubbery planting.
Cherries cannot be cultivated in the flower garden for any other object
than their blossoms, as the pulpy fruits tempt all the birds in the neigh-
bourhood, even before they are ready for gathering, and netting the trees
would so detract from their appearance as to destroy the effect for which
they were planted. We have seen Morello cherries produced in shrubberies,
and a fair percentage of the crop saved from birds, but the fruit of sweet cherries
never, so that with this one exception cherries must be used outside the fruit
garden as flowering shrubs only. On the other hand, plum and damson trees
are quite as likely to ripen their luscious fruits while occupying a position
among other shrubs, as when growing in the fruit garden proper. Fruit
trees in the shrubbery or on the lawn may either be grown as standards or
pyramids just as occasion and environment require. In the case of the apple
and pear the choice of stocks for the different varieties determines whether
they can be used as small trees or large shrubs. When planted in the back
ground of a large plantation, singly, or in groups on the lawn, it is advisable,
whether grown in the form of a standard or otherwise, to have them grafted
on the Free stock. If in a small shrubbery or border of limited width, we
would advocate the use of the Paradise stock in the case of the apple, and
the Quince stock for the pear, so as to insure plants of dwarf, bushy habit
of growth.

As an artistic feature in the pleasure grounds an orchard planted solely for
the beauty of its flowers and fruits has much to commend it. Its charm in

254 THE FRUIT GARDEN

the spring could be enhanced by naturalising, in the grass beneath the trees,
such bulbs as snowdrop, crocus, scilla, narcissus, tulip, and camassia, and in
addition climbing plants as wistaria, clematis, jasmine, honeysuckle, roses, and
Polygonum baldschuanicum in time might be grown over some of the vigorous
varieties of apple and pear trees. In this case only standard fruit trees should
be planted. Although pruning the various trees mentioned need not be so
severely carried out where these are cultivated for their beauty as when
grown solely for fruit, yet as the object in both instances is the production of
flowers, whatever means are adopted to bring this about in the one case ought
to be useful in the other ; judicious pruning is quite as requisite in the flower
garden as elsewhere. Much more might easily be said regarding the orna-
mental value of hardy fruit trees, but sufficient has been written to indicate
the great wealth of material at our disposal for garden decoration, and to
show that fruit trees are no less beautiful than useful.

‘UAMOTA NI FANL Yad CHNIVULATTIVLINOZINOW

A PEAR TREE WALK IN THE GARDENS AT SWALLOWFIELD PARK.

CHAPTER. XXI

PLANTING FRUIT TREES

By GEORGE BUNYARD

Szason.—Bush fruit trees, currants, gooseberries, &c., may be planted towards
the end of October and onwards until April. It is best to plant plum
trees early in November ; apple and pear trees about mid-November. If the
latter are transplanted earlier the shoots are liable to shrivel. “The planting
of all fruit trees can be performed whenever the land is in good condition, from
November until April. Generally speaking, it is best done before Christmas,
although experience proves that late planted trees will thrive well if the work
is carefully and thoroughly carried out. Trees planted later than January
should not be pruned until after the first summer’s growth.

How to Pianr.—lIf a small hole is made for a large mass of roots, if the
roots are crammed into the hole without care, or if they are shortened so as to
be made to fit into a hole of a certain size, failure is almost certain to result,
The following are the most important points to observe in planting fruit trees :
(a2) the position having been chosen, a hole should be made 3 feet wide and
14 feet deep ; these dimensions usually will be sufficient. Break up the soil at
the base of the hole. (4) If the roots of the tree are spreading they should be
shortened back as much as is necessary by cutting them with a sharp knife
from below; any which are growing directly downwards should be shortened
to 6 inches: these are commonly called tap-roots. They are apt to encourage
gross growth to the detriment of fertility. A sufficient number of “ anchor”
roots must be left to keep the tree firm. (c) Place the tree in the hole, and if
the soil mark upon the stem—showing how deep the tree was planted before—
is below the surface, throw in sufficient soil to raise this soil mark 3 inches
above the level of the ground. Then cover the roots with fine soil, spreading
out the lowest ones ; lift the upper fibrous roots and add more soil beneath so
as to raise them near the surface. Shake the tree stem to make the soil fill all
the interstices, then fill the hole to within 3 inches of the ground surface. (d)
Make this soil very firm by treading, taking care not to bruise the roots. If
the tree is a standard, it may then be staked. (e) Completely fill the remaining
space with soil, and tread it down lightly. As before mentioned, take care
that the earth mark upon the stem is 2 or 3 inches above the ground surface ;
it is certain to sink to some extent. It is always best to plant so that the
fibrous roots are near the surface. Deep planting, especially in damp and clay
soils, is fatal ; the hole is then nothing better than a water trap. (/) Complete
the staking, placing straw between the tree and the stake, where they are tied

255

256 THE FRUIT GARDEN

together. Protect the stem from rabbits, if necessary, with 1-inch mesh gal-
vanised wire-netting, or by means of thorny branches placed around.

Sort.—As a rule, ordinary garden soil is rich enough for all fruit trees, but

a
€

4
b

l

———— SS SS
SSS

A MAIDEN, OR ONE-
YEAR-OLD APPLE
TREE

(a) Stock ; (4) point of
inserting bud; (c)
point of cutting off
snag of stock; (d)
shoot from bud ; (e)
point of cutting
back, about 1 foot
from ground, or at
the height desired,
but always to good
budson wellmatured
wood,

in orchards, or grass land, or in poor soils, they must be
fed with manures. An excellent plan is to place half-
rotted manure on the ground surface, above the roots, after
planting. When manure is mixed with the soil in the
hole, it decays, and is liable to do harm to the roots; it
also causes the soil to become friable and loose, and the
roots of all fruit trees like a firm soil.

Dererrep Prantinc.—During the planting season it
often happens that frosts are experienced, and the work has
to be deferred. The trees should be laid in the ground,
the roots being well covered with soil, until planting can
be resumed. ‘The trees should never be laid in thickly,
for instances have occurred where field mice and rats have
nibbled off the bark.

Watt Trees.—Where wall trees are planted, the soil
may have become exhausted or very dry by the demands
made upon it by previous trees. In such cases well-rotted
manure and good loam should be used to plant in. If the
soil is very dry water the trees well when planted.

Trees on Grass Lanp.—The turf removed when holes
were made for fruit trees should be chopped up and used for
planting. Keep the surface soil loose, friable, and free
from weeds for the first four years, otherwise the land may
crack. Weeds rob the soil of nourishment, hinder the progress
of the surface roots, and prevent the tree making a good start.
The method of planting strawberries, raspberries, and
currants is treated of in the chapters devoted to these fruits.

PRUNING NEWLY PLANTED TREES

Experts differ as to the advisability of pruning the first
or the second year after planting. Roughly speaking, trees
that are carefully planted before Christmas may be pruned
in the month of February in gardens, but orchard trees
should be allowed a summer’s growth before they are cut
back. ‘Thousands of trees are ruined by over-pruning the
first year ; they form weakly growth and fruit-spurs, instead
of that vigorous growth which lays the foundation of a
finely developed tree. Supposing the orchard trees have
had asummer’s growth, the pruner first cuts out all misplaced

shoots and shortens the rest back to within 9 inches of the old growth or the

stem, taking care that the end (or terminal) buds point outwards.

After this

from g to 12 inches of new growth is left annually ; the desired basin-shaped

PLANTING FRUIT TREES 207

tree is secured by cutting back the inner branches to four buds, and regulating
the shoots so that a proper balance is kept upon all sides of the tree. Cherries
require this treatment for three years, other fruit trees for longer ; but when
the heads are well developed only weakly shoots or those which cross each
other, and useless spray, will require to be cut out. Trees carefully pruned
give the finest fruits, so that year by year a little attention pays. With garden
trees, as pyramids, espaliers, bushes, it is only necessary annually to cut back
the side-shoots to four buds, and to leave 6 inches of new growth upon the
leading shoots. Of course, close prun-

ing is necessary for a few years until the
desired form is secured.
The side shoots of cordon pear trees
must not be cut in too closely, four to
S
5

six buds should be left ; some of them
may go blind. Shoots of cordon apples
may be cut in closer; those near the top
of the tree ought to be shortened more
than those at the base, otherwise the s

basal fruit-spurs may suffer. 5

Buso Frurr Trees.—Cut back the
shoots of red and white currants and
gooseberries to within six buds of their
bases after planting, afterwards 6 inches
of new growth may annually be left
until the bushes are formed. Black
currants require different treatment, see
the chapter dealing with this fruit.

SUBSEQUENT TREATMENT.—A com- S55 =
mon error in fruit culenre is giving an qysn ae seopxn “WunteR, Foun. oF dHE
excess of manure to young trees. STRONGEST AND BesT SITUATED SHOOTS
Moderate, well-ripened shoots are best ; te eee
where growth is forced as it were, RETAINED ARE ALLOWED TO EXTEND,
sappy wood is produced, and young 4%, ANY SIDR SHOOT rHay_eNav ane
trees, especially of the cherry and plum, ;
are liable to be injured by frost. Where '/) oo een

new growths more than 12 inches long

are made in one season, the trees do not require manuring. It is wise to
assist only those trees bearing heavy crops; liquid manure and soapy water
will then help both trees and fruits. The pruning of wall fruit trees is described
in the chapters dealing with their culture.

ROOT-LIFTING AND ROOT-PRUNING

Ordinarf garden soil having been heavily manured for the culture of vege-
tables is usually so much richer than the soil of a nursery that apples and pears,

after having given perhaps two satisfactory crops, begin to grow very rapidly.
R

258 THE FRUIT GARDEN

Severe cutting and pruning only makes them grow the more wildly, and they
often become unfruitful. The time has then arrived to lift these gross
young trees, to cut off all the roots going straight down, and to shorten the
horizontal ones. If this is done at the end of October before the leaves fall,
the trees do not suffer in the following spring. Some are too large for
removal altogether, and the work must be done gradually. To lift a tree,
first open a trench on one side
of it 4 feet from the stem, then
work underneath until the

|

j tap-roots (7.e. the thick, gross
roots) are reached ; remove
these and shorten any other
gross roots that may be found.

g

Should there be a fair quantity
of fibrous roots, the other side
of the tree should next be
treated, but if few fibrous roots
are found it is best to leave the
completion of the work until
the following October. In
refilling the trench, the finer
soil must be placed about the
roots, and they should be
brought towards the surface as
much as possible. It is better
to fill up the trench with
some good loamy soil without
manure, making thisfirm. We
prefer to mulch the surface

_——$———————————— (which is done to retain
TREE IN THIRD WINTER, Two SHOOTS HAVING BEEN moisture and to encourage new

ALLOWED To EXTEND FROM THE Upper Bups or roots) in March _ instead of
EAcH BRANCH, ALL OTHERS EXCEPT SPURS BEING immediately after planting, for

PINCHED TO FouR GooD LEAVES.
the mulch prevents the sun

(g), Points of shortening the eight main branches to within frgm warming the soil and
6 or 8 inches of base of summer growth; all side shoots ‘
ava cit back to two buds: obstructs the rains. All fruit

trees must be firmly planted.
These remarks refer to espaliers, pyramid, and bush trees of apples and pears.
It is not advisable to root-prune standard trees, for they would on losing their
main roots be liable to be blown down; if the heads of the trees are kept
moderately thin, fruit-spurs will soon form and bear naturally. Cordon trees
require frequent attention to root-pruning; they are often highly manured,
and being also mulched when fruiting they are liable to grow too freely.
Cordon pears on the Quince and cordon apples on the Paradise stock are fibrous
rooted, and they do not suffer if root-pruning is performed at the end of
October or the beginning of November as soon as the fruit is gathered.

ROOT-PRUNING 259

We have successfully renovated large trees that had been planted ten years.
Coarse roots should be cut with a sharp knife, and from beneath ; the severed
portion should be removed, or it may rot. The object of lifting and root-
pruning is to secure a proper balance between roots and top growth; the lower
or tap-roots promote gross growth, the surface or fibrous ones nourish the fruit-
spurs, and it is the latter, of course, that should be encouraged. Failure must

1

\ {
\ 4

y 1

1
I
I
t
1
1 U
J
t

TREE IN FOURTH WINTER, TWO SHOOTS BEING TAKEN FROM EACH OF THE EIGHT
BRANCHES IN THE PREVIOUS SUMMER. THE TREATMENT IS A REPETITION
OF THAT OF THE PRECEDING SEASON, THE TREE NOW HAVING SIXTEEN
BRANCHES, FROM 9 TO 12 INCHES APART, AND AS NEARLY AS POSSIBLE OF
EQUAL VIGOUR; THE FRAMEWORK OF THE TREE IS THUS SECURED.

(2) Leading shoots; if not more than 15 inches in length, they are left entire, but
if longer, they are cut back about the height named, indicated by cross lines, and
in the following season one of the best growths from each cut back leading branch
is selected as leader, and taken forward as shown by dotted lines; the rest must be
pinched ; 1, 2, 3, and 4 indicate age of wood in years.

attend root-pruning when done later in the season, as new roots do not then
so readily form. If the weather is dry in May and June a copious watering
should be given to trees which have been lifted.

Corpon AND Pyramip CHERRIES must be very carefully root-pruned, The
Morello and Duke varieties naturally form very fruitful trees, and do not need
attention so much as the Bigarreau or Heart cherries. The latter should be root-
pruned every other season until luxuriant growth is checked ; they grow very
freely, and the hard cutting necessary to form the desired shape may, and often
does, cause them to gum and lose boughs; but after two or three root-prunings

260

THE FRUIT GARDEN

the trees become thickly set with fruit spurs, and then as they bear more fruit

will not grow so freely.

As far as possible the strong shoots should be stopped

in August, and the smaller ones pinched earlier, when the wood is green,

PINCHING LEADING
GROWTH

(z) Point of stopping when
rather more than a foot

long ; this causes the basal .

buds to swell, and one or
more shoots to push from
the upper buds; upper-
most growth is pinched to
three full-sized leaves;
laterals pinched to one
leaf.

leaving only such terminal shoots as are required to
form the tree. On walls cherries do not need root-
pruning so much.

Piums, PEacHEs, aND NEcTARINES.—As these form
mat-like roots, they can be safely root-pruned, even when
of large size; it is not advisable to feed young trees
much, or they will make wild growth which robs the
fruiting branches, and if not checked will eventually
ruin them. Plums especially often grow too fast for a
few years, they make more fruitful trees when root-
pruned the third year after planting and again in five
or six years if the wood growth is excessive and prevents
the formation of fruit buds. Peaches and nectarines
benefit greatly by root-pruning, and the coarse roots
may well be shortened whether the trees are on walls
or grown under glass. Should a cold, drving wind
prevail after root-pruning has been done, a syringing
overhead will be beneficial for ten days or so. Peaches
and nectarines may be pruned at the roots even when
the foliage is on, if shaded, syringed, and well watered.

Fics on Watts.—These, even when old, require
severe root-pruning to make them fruit satisfactorily;
on filling the trench, porous stones, brick ends, with old
mortar rubbish should be freely used, and even lime and
chalk, as the fig luxuriates in calcareous soil. Summer
mulching and liquid manure greatly benefit the fruits.

General Remarks,—Root-pruning is often rendered necessary, because of
too heavy manuring or too deep a soil, whereby the best roots are destroyed or
become gross feeders. The advantages of root-pruning and root-lifting are briefly

as follow :-—

(2) This work induces fertility, (4) cures canker (which is often caused by
the roots being too deeply covered), (c) improves the flavour of the fruit, (¢) pre-
vents the formation of useless roots and shoots, (e) reduces the labour of summer

and winter pruning.

CHAPTER XXII

HOW TO ERECT A FRUIT -HOUSE

By GEORGE BUNYARD

Tue Founparion.—First level the soil and dig out holes for the corners large
enough to admit brick piers 14 inches by 14 inches or stones about 12 inches
square ; fix an iron dowel in the centre to receive the corner posts of the struc-
ture. Some provision for air should be made just above the ground line; air
bricks may be let in the wall, or an aperture made and covered outside and inside
with perforated zinc. If the house is more than 20 feet long, an extra founda-
tion to hold another support should be put in half-way between the ends.

Tue Main Posts.—These should be 6 feet long and 6 inches square. Pre-
pare a hole in the foot to receive the dowel mentioned above; this will keep the
framework firm. ‘The main ground plate should be 44 by 3 inches, and the top
plate of the same size. Support and make firm in the usual way with quartering
4% by 3 inches, and when this is fixed choose a dry day and pitch, tar, or cold
creosote the lower plates and all the woodwork 2 feet from the ground, to protect
from damp. ‘The quartering should have an even exterior to which to secure
the matchboard.

OursiDE CovERING.—The cheapest material for this is $-inch matchboard,
and it may be fixed outside the roof rafters as well. Inside “bonds” from one
side of the house to the other are 44 by 3 inches. If stout, they are useful to
hold planks upon which baskets can be placed overhead in the roof space. In
order to receive the side thatch, a board 6 inches wide is attached round the
door-plates at right angles and at the corners from the ground to the eaves; in
it the thatch is placed upright, and is kept in position by lateral pieces of wood
3 inches by 1 inch,

Tue Tuatcu may be 18 inches thick on the roof and 6 inches at the ends
and sides. Sedge or reed is strongest and lasts longest, but wheat straw or heather
may be used as thatch.

Doors.—These must be provided both inside and outside; they should be
made to fit closely so as to exclude draughts.

Wunvows.—In order that the fruit may be readily inspected, windows of
21-oz. glass are inserted. This saves the use of a candle at storing time, but
outside shutters must be provided to keep the room dark at other times,

VENTILATION is provided by means of an opening, 18 by 18 inches, under
the apex of each end of the roof, a small opening also being left between the
shutters, which can be filled with hay or moss in severe weather. “These open-
ings should be protected by perforated zinc fine enough to keep out wasps and

261

262 THE FRUIT GARDEN

flies. Other ventilators must be placed, inside and outside, about the middle of
each side of the structure, under the lowest shelf; the aperture inside is covered
with perforated zinc, while outside there is a shutter.

Prorecrion.—To protect the contents a }-inch mesh stout wire-netting
should be fastened to the matchboard outside, beneath the thatch, so that an
entry would be difficult. ‘This is advisable also to keep out rats.

Insrp—E SHELVES upon which to lay the fruits are readily fixed at the sides.
First place uprights, 2 by 14 inches, from the ground to the rafters, and then
attach bearers, 2 inches by 2 inch, from these to the quartering. One foot between
the shelves is a very convenient distance; the lowest shelf being placed 6 inches
from the ground makes six in all. The shelves are made of 3-inch matchboard ;
they should be about }-inch apart, so as to allow a slight circulation of air. Upon
the shelves place clean wheat straw, so that the fruit shall not touch the wooden
shelves. In the centre of the fruit-house a narrow table with a raised edge is
useful for displaying exhibition collections or special fruits. Baskets of fruit for
early use can be placed underneath it.

Froor.—The best possible floor is the natural earth ; paved surfaces are apt
to become too dry. The latest varieties of fruits should be stored on the lowest
shelves.

Names.—Provide slips of zinc 4 inches long, turn up one end an inch at an
angle of 45 degs.; slit this three times, bending the central “tongue” so that a
neat card may be held firmly. The other end of the zinc label is pushed under
the straw.

It is not necessary to erect this fruit-house in the shade.

GATHERING HARD FRUITS

Appies.—The early ripening Codlins and summer dessert apples are always
best when used fresh from the trees. The dessert sorts lose their brisk flavour
and are apt to become mealy when stored. It may, however, be necessary to
store them in order to make the most of the supply. Codlins will keep in a
properly constructed store or fruit-room for three months in a firm condition
if very carefully gathered and stored without being bruised. For gathering
the basket should be lined with sacking, although for gathering on a moderate
scale we prefer to use an open wood basket. ‘This, when lined with fine straw
or wood-wool packing, is taken to the trees, the fruit being regularly laid in
rows as gathered. If the fruit is soft there should only be one layer. When
two of these baskets are full they can be carried to the fruit-room on yokes ;
thus all jolting is avoided. ‘The baskets are invaluable for gathering choice
fruit or for use among dwarf trees or espaliers. Where ladders are used an
ordinary peck gathering basket with a hook to attach it to the ladder or tree is
large enough. The basket should be lined with soft material, and when full
the contents are transferred to a larger receptacle. The wholesale removal
of the fruit from one basket to another means bruising, and except for
common sorts should be avoided. When to gather the fruit is a difficult
question to answer. Growers should not be alarmed if a few fruits fall,

GATHERING HARD FRUITS 263

for very often they are maggoty. If sound, and when cut open the pips
(seeds) are of a dark colour, the fruits are ready for gathering. Our experience,
however, is that more apples are spoilt by being gathered too early than the
reverse. Fruit fully matured keeps sound longer and is in every way better
than fruit not quite ripe, and a few fruits lost at gathering are unimportant
if one obtains the bulk of the crop at the proper time. When storing the
finest examples may be placed in single layers, and the remainder should be
carefully laid on the shelves not more than two layers thick (one preferably),
except the late and smaller-sized dessert sorts, which can be heaped up to 14
feet deep without harm.
Any bird-pecked, mag-
goty, or bruised fruits
should not be stored with
the sound ones.

Late AppLes,—T hese
require more care in stor-
ing, as a bruised fruit will
decay and affect all those
that come into contact
with it. It is not every
fruit-room that will admit
of the entire crop being

A SPRING BARROW, MOST USEFUL FOR TRANSFERRING BASKETS

laid out in one or two OF HARD FRUIT FROM THE TREES TO THE Fruit Room
layers, therefore the later

fruits may have to be
heaped, but if carefully
handled they keep well in this way on the floor. The drier sorts can be laid
more thickly than the juicy ones. They must not be left in the baskets, as the
uneven sides of the latter bruise the outside fruits. We do not find any
covering necessary, but care must be taken to keep out severe frosts, either by
extra inside or outside covering; especially is this essential when wind and
cold come together. We find a lamp to give sufficient heat.

GATHERING Prars,—Pears are very tender, and much care is required in
gathering and in storing. Never should more than one layer be permitted in
the fruit-room ; then every fruit can be seen at a glance, and any commencing
to decay can be at once removed. More than ordinary care must be exercised
to avoid storing any bird-pecked or unsound fruit, for pears should not be
moved when once placed in the fruit-room.

Earty Pgars.—lIt is found that these are better flavoured when gathered a
week before they appear to be ripe; the tree should be cleared at intervals.
So treated they are less liable to become mealy and decay in the centre. The
mid-season varieties can be tested (a) by slightly raising the fruit, when, if fit
to gather, the stalk parts readily from the spur; (4) by examining the seeds as
with the apple; (c) by observing when the stalk end grows over the spur it is
attached to ; (¢) by a change of colour from green to orange.

Late Prars.—These require to be carefully managed. The trees must be

Length of shaft, 6 ft. 6 in.; diameter of wheel, x ft. 8 in. ;
width of barrow, 2 ft.

264 THE FRUIT GARDEN

well mulched and watered to secure full size and flavour, and the fruit must be
left on the trees almost into November (according to the season).

STEWING PEars.—These can be stored in baskets or boxes, as they do not
bruise so readily as the dessert varieties. In no case should potatoes, onions,
roots, or bulbs be placed in the same store with fruit, nor should hay or other
materials that may taint the fruit be used. Clean wheat straw may be thinly
laid on the shelves where the fruits are to be placed.

CHAPTER MXIT

FRUIT STORAGE

By OWEN THOMAS

Tue subject of retarding, storing, and preserving fruit is one of great importance
to fruit growers. It may be well, however, to caution the inexperienced by
saying that, however effective any structure may be in preserving fruit beyond
its natural season, retardation, if practised for too long, will result in deterioration
in weight, quality, and appearance. For instance, it is quite possible to keep
an October apple under favourable conditions until the following March, but
undoubtedly at a sacrifice of its qualities. Moreover, we have such an abundance
of varieties naturally in season in March that it is useless to preserve October
fruits until then. But the October fruit could be profitably retarded until
Christmas, the Christmas apple to March, and the March variety to May and
June. It is only against the abuse of the principle that I have a word to say.
Late apples and grapes may with advantage be kept two or three months. The
softer fruits, such as peaches, melons, pineapples, strawberries, &c., may be
retarded with little or no deterioration in quality for a week or ten days even in
the warmest weather. : ;

In considering the question of providing the best means of harvesting and
retarding fruit the fact should never be lost sight of that lessened evaporation is
the object. This can only be brought about by having a temperature con-
siderably below that of the atmosphere out-of-doors during warm weather, and
by avoiding sudden variations of temperature in the fruit-room or the too free
admittance of air.

It is only the large fruit-grower who requires a specially built fruit-room,
yet there are thousands of smaller growers who will be glad to know how to
retard their fruits, especially apples. If such have a cellar attached to their
house it is the best place for the purpose. A layer of straw should be placed
on the floor for the fruits to rest upon, and they should be looked over
occasionally and the bad ones picked out. In frosty weather cover them with
a light layer of straw, mats, or any available suitable material. In the absence
of a cellar apples may be camped out in the garden, as is frequently done with
potatoes, placing straw to rest them upon and covering them with the same
material for about three weeks until they have finished “sweating.” The
bruised and bad ones then will also be distinguishable and can be picked out.
The remaining sound ones are again camped in straw and covered over with
6 inches of soil, leaving wisps of straw for slight ventilation, 12 feet apart in

the apex of the ridge. Camped in this way apples may be preserved in sound
265

266 THE FRUIT GARDEN

condition for months. ‘This manner of keeping the apple refers to mid-season
and late varieties only. It serves no useful purpose to try and keep early
varieties long. With reference to the choicer varieties of apples, such as
Cox’s Orange Pippin, Ribston Pippin, and others, the best way of preserving
them is to wrap them in paper and place them in a cellar. Stored in this way
I have known Blenheim Orange keep in good condition until June.

The retarding fruit-room proper may be built several ways. I had the
privilege of building one at the Royal Gardens, Frogmore, underneath the floor
of an existing fruit-room. Ventilation was provided by a shaft at each end,
easily regulated, and by double doors, one of open trellis work for the admission
of additional air when desired, and an ordinary lock door. In the warmest
weather the temperature in this room was from 8 to 10 degs. cooler than the
ordinary fruit-room above, and I found it invaluable for retarding fruit. A
fruit-room of this description may be built underground with an arched roof
and covered over with 2 or 3 feet of soil in which shrubs can be planted or
grass sown. ‘This is a useful method of making a cool fruit-room without its
being an eyesore in a garden where space is limited. It should be high enough
for a man to be able to stand upright, and the length and width in proportion
to the quantity of fruit to be stored. It must have a sunk doorway at one end
and a window at the other opening to an air cavity outside.

By GEORGE BUNYARD

I cannot too strongly impress upon all those who wish to keep their fruits
firm and fresh for a long time that it is most important for them to be ripe
when gathered. They must also be carefully handled, and finally laid singly
upon the shelves without bruising. Fruits should never be wet when stored.
Small apples keep better when three or four layers thick. Examine the fruits
from time to time, and remove any that are decayed or decaying. Keep the
floor of the fruit-room damp continually. Capital storage is ready to hand in the
many oast houses which exist in Kent and Sussex, as the hops are generally
gone and the oast cleared out before the apples for late keeping are gathered.
There is no doubt that these substantial buildings are suitable both on the
ground floors and the first floors, but the fruits keep best on the former.

The usual plan is for women to sort the fruit as it is brought in, and to lay
it out carefully on clean straw in heaps of one sort up to 3 feet deep. After
these heaps have sweated they are slightly covered to keep off dust, &c., then
as frost becomes probable they are covered one foot deep with fresh, clean
straw. In these heaps the fruit keeps sound and plump, and they remain there
until January or March according to the market price. The varieties now
most in favour for late sale are Wellington, Blenheim Orange, Winter Queen-
ing, Northern Greening, Deux Ans, Norfolk Beaufin, Cox’s Orange Pippin,
Golden Knob, and Wyken Pippin, and_ locally Hanwell Sowing, Grange’s
Pearmain, and Court Pendu Plat. But in a few years there will be a large
supply of Tower of Glamis, Newton Wonder, Bismarck, Hambling’s Seedling,
Royal Jubilee, Lane’s Prince Albert, and Bramley’s Seedling. Year by year

FRUIT STORAGE 267

the home-grown supply gets larger, and it may be possible to keep up a regular
supply when a system of storage is generally adopted. It is in this direction
that English apples for the English public may be provided. One of the largest
fruit crops was that of 1900, and yet it is a fact that better prices were then
obtained for late apples than in previous years.

The following valuable information on the storage of fruit is given in
The Garden by Mr. William Crump: “I am of opinion that the thorough
ripening and a proper means of storing hardy fruits do not generally receive
half the care and attention they deserve, especially by those who require a long
successional supply of firm, well-conditioned home-grown fruit. In our modern
fruit-rooms utility is frequently sacrificed for structural effect. We were
victims of this policy, and owing to the dry, arid atmosphere of our fruit-
room we found it impossible to keep apples firm after March. Nothing
that we could devise would prevent shrivelling. However, we commenced
experiments with a view to improving matters. First we tried placing the
fruit in barrels as gathered from the trees, on the American plan. This
preserved the firmness of the fruits, but through their being packed in bulk the
flavour was much impaired ; the fruits seemed to lose their juiciness and brisk-
ness of flavour.

“Our next experiment was in an ordinary cellar, and here we found that
the fruit kept firm and sound several months after being gathered. In fact,
we were so convinced of the advantages of a cellar that we decided to adopt the
Irishman’s method of ‘ raising the roof by lowering the floor.” We consulted a
builder, and he undertook to enlarge the interior of the room so as to form an
additional 7 feet for shelves, underpinning the walls to form the cellar. Iron
girders were placed across, and the original flooring was replaced thereon. An
opening shutter was put in the floor of the interior at the one end, and another
door through the outer wall at the other end, giving access both from the
exterior and interior, and affording ample ventilation that is so necessary when
the fruits ‘sweat’ shortly after gathering. A current of air is thus allowed to
pass through the underground stores of fruit until the skins have lost their sur-
face moisture, then, taking advantage of a cold morning, we shut up the cellar
with the coldest air, only ventilating again when we can exchange for a fresh
supply of cold air. The more moisture on the floor the better. The important
point is to dry well the surface of the fruit before closing the room finally.
The fruits may be placed in two or three layers, or singly. The best tempera-
ture we consider to be 40 to 45 degs. Fahrenheit. Cool storage with co-
operative fruit-growing would revolutionise our home productions in a
commercial sense.”

268 THE FRUIT GARDEN

SELECTIONS OF FRUITS FOR CERTAIN DISTRICTS

NortruH oF ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND

APPLES.—tAlfriston, tAstrachan Red, *Allington Pippin, *tBeauty of Bath, *+Bis-
marck, Byford Wonder, Christmas Pearmain, Cockle’s Pippin, Cox’s Pomona, tCox’s
Orange Pippin (wall), Col. Vaughan, tClaygate Pearmain, tCellini Pippin, tDuchess of
Oldenburg, tDevonshire Quarrenden, Domino Codlin, tEarly Julian, Early Victoria,
+Ecklinville Seedling, Emperor Alexander (wall), Early Red Margaret, Fearn’s Pippin,
+Galloway Pippin, *Gascoigne’s Scarlet Seedling, tGolden Spire, tGolden Noble,
*+Grenadier, *Hambling’s Seedling, tIrish Peach, tJames Grieve, tKeswick Codlin,
tKerry Pippin, tKing of the Pippins, *tLady Sudeley, tLane’s Prince Albert, Langley
Pippin, tLord Derby, *Lord Grosvenor, *Lord Suffield, Margil, Mother, tMr. Gladstone,
Mrs. Phillimore, Northern Greening, *Newton Wonder, Peasgood’s Nonesuch (wall),
+Pott’s Seedling, Red Juneating, tRibston Pippin, Rosemary Russet, Ross Nonpareil,
*Royal Jubilee, Seaton House, Scarlet Nonpareil, tSummer Golden Pippin, or Ingestre,
+Stirling Castle, tStone’s Apple, Striped Beefing, St. Edmunds’ Russet, tT ower of Glamis,
The Queen, *tWhite Transparent, tWarner’s King, tWellington, tWorcester Pearmain,
White Juneating, tYellow Ingestrie.

Cox’s Orange may and does succeed in the open in many parts, but it is worthy of a
wall in the North.

* Refers to sorts which, although not yet well known in the North, are likely to prove
most desirable. + Specially recommended.

CHERRIES.—Early Rivers, Frogmore Early Bigarreau, Governor Wood, Late Duke,
May Duke, Morello, Napoleon Bigarreau, Windsor Bigarreau.

APRICOTS.—Breda (very free), Hemskerk, Moorpark, New Large Early.

Fics.—Black Ischia, Brown Turkey, White Marseilles (all for open air).

NECTARINES FOR OUTDOOR CULTURE.—Dryden, Elruge, Humboldt, Lord Napier,
Pine Apple, and others.

PEACHES FOR OUTDOOR CULTURE.—Condor, Dymond, Bellegarde, *Early Alex-
ander, *Early York, Early Grosse Mignonne, Goshawk, Hale’s Early (fine), Stirling
Castle, Violette Hative, *Waterloo.

PEaRS.—Aston Town, Baronne de Mello, Bellissime d’Hiver, *Beacon (Rivers’),
Beurré Brown, Beurré Bosc, *Beurré d’Amanlis, Beurré Easter, *Beurré Capiaumont,
Beurré Fouqueray, *Beurré Giffard, Beurré Hardy, Beurré Superfin, *Bon Chrétien
(Williams’), Belle Julie, Catillac, *Colmar d’Eté, Comte de Lamy, Conference (Rivers’),
*Doyenné Boussoch, Doyenné d’Eté, Doyenné du Comice, Durondeau, Emile d’Heyst,
Fondante d’Automne, Fondante de Thirriott, General Todtleben, Glou Morceau,
Grosse Calebasse, Hacon’s Incomparable, *Jargonelle, Josephine de Malines, *Louise
Bonne of Jersey, Marie Louise, Marguerite Marillat, Nouvelle Fulvie, Passe Colmar,
Pitmaston Duchess, Petite Marguerite, Souvenir du Congrés, Triomphe de Vienne,
Thompson’s, Uvedale’s St. Germain, Verulam (baking), Winter Nelis.

* Will succeed in some situations as standards ; the others are best on the Quince
stock for south or west walls.

PLums.—As a rule these do well on walls in the North, and in some places as standard
trees.—*Belgian Purple, Belle de Septembre, *Black Diamond, Blue Prolific, *Cox’s
Emperor, Comte d’Atthem’s Gage, *Coe’s Golden Drop, Denniston’s Superb Gage, *Early
Prolific(Rivers’), Gisborne’s, *Green Gage (old),*Jefferson’s Gage, Kirke’s Blue, *Magnum
Bonum (white), Magnum Bonum (red), Monarch (Rivers’), *New Orleans (early),
Oullins’ Golden Gage, Pershore Yellow Egg, *Pond’s Seedling, *Prince Englebert,
*Prince of Wales, Reine Claude de Bavay, Sultan, *The Czar, Transparent Gage (early),
Transparent Gage (original), *Victoria.

Damsons.—Frogmore (early), *King of Damsons, Hereford Prune.

* For standards ; rest on walls south or west.

SELECTIONS OF ERUITS 269

RECOMMENDED FOR CORNWALL AND Devon Coasts

APPLES.—Dessert.—* Lady Sudeley, Kerry Pippin, Mother, Egremont Russet, Cox’s
Orange Pippin, *Allington Pippin, *Mannington’s Pearmain, *Old Nonpareil, Sturmer
Pippin, *Boston Russet. Cudinary.—Lord Suffield, Ecklinville, *Golden Spire, *Lord
Derby, Warner’s King, Bismarck, Wellington, *Alfriston, *Bramley’s Seedling, *Lane’s
Prince Albert.

PEARS,—Jargonelle, *Louise Bonne, *Williams’, Durondeau, *Doyenné du Comice,
Pitmaston, *Emile d’Heyst, Glou Morceau, Beurré Diel, Bergamotte Esperen.

PLuMms.—*The Czar, Victoria, and Monarch for standards, and for walls *Dennis-
ton’s Superb, Jefferson, Coe’s Golden Drop, and Monarch.

PEACHES.—Hale’s Early, *Bellegarde, Crimson Galande, *Dymond, Violette HAtive.

NECTARINES.—Lord Napier, *Elruge, *Dryden, Humboldt.

STRAWBERRIES.—Countess, Gunton Park, Latest of all, *Monarch, *President,
“Royal Sovereign.

“ These are the most reliable.

CHAPTER XXIV

PROPAGATION OF FRUIT TREES

By GEORGE BUNYARD

AppLeEs, pears, plums, cherries, and quinces are increased by budding in August
and September and also by grafting in March and April. The former is the
easier operation. The union of stock and scion usually is more perfect and
heals sooner upon budded trees than upon grafted ones. In either case it is
important that the stocks made use of should be well established. They
should be planted in November ; grafting is best done in March and April.
If the stocks are clean, healthy, and of free growth and planted before March,
they can be budded the same season. If they are at all dried up by the July
heat and growth is poor it is better not to bud them, but to graft them the
following spring. Buds inserted when the bark of the stock does not easily
separate from the woody centre are seldom satisfactory. Amateurs would learn
more in ten minutes by seeing the operation done, by some local gardener than
by a long written description,

For grafting, the desired scions (i.e. the shoots to be grafted) should be cut
from the tree and laid in a shady place and covered with soil two-thirds of their
length, there to remain until required in March or April; then they take to
the stock better. Ifthe stocks are dwarfs they can be cut down at the grafting
season, but if large espaliers or standard trees are intended to be grafted they
should be cut back in February, and not grafted until the sap is rising.

There are three methods of grafting : (2) Whip-grafting upon small stocks ;
(6) rind-grafting upon older trees; (c) cleft-grafting upon large branches. In
the first (2) the scion is cut with a long tongue, and a notch is made in the
woody part to fit a corresponding notch in the stock, which is cut obliquely ;
the scion should exactly fit the stock cut to receive it. In d the outer rind or
bark of the stock is raised with a chisel, the bark of the scion is removed, and
the woody portion flattened and inserted under the bark. In c the end of the
branch is opened with a chisel and mallet, and the graft is cut three-sided
(wedge-shaped) to fit in the opening, two grafts can be inserted, if the branch
is upright ; if bending, one on the upper side only.

The work is first tightly bound round with Russian bast, then some clay,
well mixed with short straw or horse manure, is placed over the graft and
pressed closely around it to exclude air; wax may be used, composed of resin
and tallow ; this must be used hot. As soon as the grafts have “taken” and
have made 1 foot of growth the clay or resin is removed and the ties are

slightly loosened, but they are not removed for a month, until the union is
270

APPLE GRAFTING ON CUT BACK ESPALIER.

NI WHIL SHIAIOND ONILTASAY ANF ‘TALAFUD ANF NOPE LOO YAITVdSH ATddV

PROPAGATION OF FRUIT TREES 271

complete. If the ties are not loosened they will cut into the stock and arrest its
growth ; a resting-place for insects is thus formed, and the hold of the scion is
also weakened. ‘The scion should be protected by a piece of split wood tied to
the stock and the new scion-growth be supported by it, that high winds do not
damage it. If the growth of the scion exceeds 1} feet it should be stopped ; it
is thereby strengthened. With dwarf trees a stake 3 feet long should be firmly
placed in the ground and the new growth tied to it, so that the new tree
may grow perfectly straight and upright.

Buppinc.—The leaves should be cut off above the leaf-stalks from those
shoots which are to furnish buds, and about 6 inches of the tops may also be
cut off the shoots; place the ends in water. The stock is then prepared by
making an upright cut 14 inches long and a transverse cut in a smooth portion,
the two cuts together forming the letter T. The edges of the bark are then
lifted (by the flat end of the budding knife) to receive the bud. The bud is cut
out of the shoot by a bow-like cut and the ends gently bent, so that the woody
central portion can be extracted. ‘The bud is then inserted under the cut lips
of the T-insertion as far down as it will go, with the “eye” upwards ; press
it down by applying the ivory end of the budding knife to the base of the leaf-
stalk. If a portion of the bark protrudes beyond the T it is cut away, so that
the “lips” fall over and envelop the bud entirely. Then lightly wind round
with raffia, leaving the dormant bud exposed. After about fourteen days, if
the leaf-stalk falls, the cut does not open, and the bud looks green, the ties
must be loosened ; later they can be removed altogether. It is important to
note that the tiny neck or “pin” of the bud remains entire when the woody
portion is removed ; if that comes out when the wood is removed the bud
will die. Therefore empty buds should not be inserted. Practice alone will
insure celerity and good work. In the following April the bud will begin to
grow ; the shoot is then tied loosely to the stock to insure its growing upright,
and in the late autumn or early spring the stock is cut away just above the
bud in a sloping direction.

Layerinc.—This is accomplished by selecting a shoot towards the base of
a bush or tree and placing the central portion a few inches below the soil, so
that the shoot forms the letter U. The lowest point should be first notched
so as to encourage the formation of roots and be well secured beneath the
soil.

Srocks FoR AppLes.—For orchard standards the Crab or Free apple stock
may be used. For garden trees either the English or Dutch Paradise stock, or
Rivers’ Broad or Nonesuch varieties of it. None of these four stocks has any
real advantage over the other, but the smaller growing apples best fit the first
two, and the strong and sturdy ones the two latter.

Pears FOR OrcHarps.— These trees should be upon the Pear stock, which
may also be used for espalier and other free-growing garden trees. But for
cordons and pyramids the Quince stock should be used, as upon this the
trees come into bearing very much more quickly. As “mothers” for double
grafting, Conseiller de la Cour and Marie Louise D’Uccle are suitable.

Prums.—The two reliable stocks are the Brompton and the Mussell, the

THE FRUIT GARDEN

a2

PROPAGATION BY GRAFLING

PROPAGATION OF FRUIT TREES 273

former for most of the free-growing varieties, and the latter for damsons, most
of the black plums, and gages.
CuHERRIES.—The Wild Cherry stock is used for all forms of trees, but the
Mahaleb can be used with advantage for the May Duke and Morello cherries.
PEacHEs AND NEcTARINES.—The best stocks are the Brompton and the

PROPAGATION BY GRAFTING

TONGUE OR WuiP GRAFTING.—X. Stock with the top cut off to the distance from ground at which
the scion is to be affixed; (x) point of inserting knife opposite a bud ; (v) point of bringing out knife
in making gently sloping cut about half an inch above the bud; (w) bud. y. Stock sliced; (x) slip
made upwards to correspond with the slanting cut of the scion at least on one side, z. Stock tongued ;
(y) tongue, made by a slanting cut downwards and inclining inwards, a piece of wood being removed
by a vertical cut from the top, thus taking out a wedge-like piece of wood (not necessary in small stocks
and ordinary scions), and so forming a tongue pointing upwards. a. Scion or well-matured shoot of
previous year’s growth of the desired variety ; (z) slanting cut from 2 to 3 inches long; (a) lowest bud
removed; (4) buds left for vigorous stock; (c) buds left for a strong stock; (d) buds left for a weak
stock. 8B. Scion sliced; (e) slanting cut made inwards at the upper edge of the cut about an eighth to
a quarter of an inch deep, and slanting exactly the same as the top of the stock on which it is to rest ;
remove the small portion of wood with an upward cut; when the cut portion of the scion is placed
against the cut part of the stock they must fit exactly, at least on one side. cc. Scion tongued; tongue
made by a slanting cut upwards and exactly fitting the cleft of the stock, though rather less than
epee in width, but precisely the same in length. D. Scion attached; (g) tongue in cleft of stock ;
n) bark of stock and scion exactly coinciding, at least on one side, thus bringing the inner barks
together. E. Scion and stock tied and clayed; (2) material (matting or raffia) binding the scion and
stock firmly together ; (7) section of claying material to make junction air-tight (some use grafting wax).
Subsequently keep the clay or wax effective, and loosen the ligature when the scion has made about 6
inches of growth, then place a stick close to the tree, tying the stock and scion to the stick so that no
wind can move it. Whip grafting is sometimes performed without a tongue, the scion being prepared
as shown at B, and the stock as shown at Y, and the two joined together as at D, but without the
tongue. Then bind securely together, as at E, and cover with clay or wax; this is termed ‘‘ Splice
Grafting,” and preferred by some as not weakening stock and scion so much as in tongue grafting.

CLEFT GRAFTING.—F. Scion; (2) wedge-shaped cut 2 or 3 inches long, a little thinner on the inner
side opposite the bud, in order to insure close contact of the bark where the scion and stock join.
G. Stock, top of a trunk or branch, with scions inserted ; (2) cleft made by chisel and mallet right across
trunk or branch, the chisel or a wedge being placed in the centre of the cleft to keep it open while the
scions are inserted ; (7) scions properly placed, always on one side of the cleft so that the inner bark
isin contact with the inner bark of the stock the whole length of the scion ; this is important, as if set a
little too far out or a little too far in, failure must result. The wedge must be withdrawn carefully so
as not to displace the scions. 4H. Cleft grafting completed; binding of soft tarred string and grafting
wax; completely cover the cleft at the top and down the sides as low as the stock is split. The scions
for cleft grafting may be as thick as the finger, and of wood two years old or more. They must be
clean and healthy, and have two or three buds clear above the stock. Cleft grafting is suitable for
stocks over 1 inch in diameter, upon which whip grafting cannot conveniently be performed. The
main stem of a tree can be successfully operated upon, but it is better to make use of branches rather
than graft when the trunks of the trees are of large size, grafting them at about a foot or 15 inches from
the main stem, Three to five branches worked with two or three scions each, either by this or by
crown grafting, form good heads, and come into bearing in two or three years.

CROWN GRAFTING.—1. Scion, about 6 inches long, of well-matured wood of previous year’s growth
with three plump wood buds at the upper end, lower part cut in a slanting direction 2 to 3 inches long,
the same as the whip graft; (7) shoulder to fit top of stock. J. Scions fixed; (7) slit down through
the bark in a smooth part, 2 inches long; (s) scions inserted in the stock, a hard wood wedge being
used, shaped like the scion, but rather smaller; raise the bark, and insert the wedge in the centre of
the cut at the top between the bark and wood and push it down about half an inch less than the cut
part of the scion ; into this opening the scion is pushed, keeping the cut part next the wood of the stock
and pushed down so as to rest by the shoulder on the top of the stock; (¢) binding of matting or raffia.
K. Claying; (z) clay brought over crown of stock and extended downwards so as to cover the slit parts
of the bark. Crown or rind grafting is easily performed, but the scions are liable to displacement by
wind and other violence, hence the grafts must be secured to a stick fastened tothe trunk or branch until
they have a strong hold. Usually the best time for grafting in the south of England is from the middle
of March to April; in the north, the first fortnight of April. Young stocks, as a tule, are ready to
graft ten days to a fortnight before old trees. It is better to graft trees late than too early; donot
graft until the sap is flowing freely in the stock. Stocks should be cut before the sap rises, or some
time in advance of the operation, and near the points where the grafts are to be inserted.

iS)

THE FRUIT GARDEN

274.

(is

PROPAGATION OF FRUIT TREES 275

Mussell Plum. Most of them do upon either stock ; some soils suit one better
than the other, but only local experience can determine this. They are always
budded in August.

Apricots are budded in August on the Mussell or Common Plum stocks.

Brackserrigs and Bramstgs are increased by division of the roots, by
cuttings of the roots, and by the tops of shoots inserted three-quarters of their
length in the soil in March,

GoosEBERRIES and CurRAnTs are raised from cuttings, which are inserted
three-quarters of their length below the soil in March. If wanted upon a stem
all buds, except four at the upper end, are removed.

Brack Currants are best as low bushes; the buds must not be removed
as the shoots which spring up from them furnish the tree with the young
growths upon which fruit is borne.

Fics are propagated by layers and cuttings, the latter being rooted in pots in
a moderately warm house.

ra Nuts and Firzerts are raised by layers; they do not come true from
seed,

Meptars are budded on the Pear stock or the White Thorn.

PROPAGATION BY BUDDING

BuDDING.—o, Portion of a strong and well-hardened apple shoot of the current season’s growth,
showing mode of ‘‘taking” the buds; (g) point of cutting leaves, leaving part of the leaf and petiole
(leaf-stalk) to serve as a handle to the,bud; (2) dotted vertical| lines indicate direction of knife in
‘*taking"' buds, the trimmed shoot being called a ‘‘stick.'"" NOTE.—The upper buds of a shoot, often
not fully developed and borne on soft wood, are usually discarded, as also are the small basal buds of
the shoot (z). P. Proper bud, long and pointed ; a wood bud almost always in the case of the apple and
pear, but not so in the cherry, nectarine, peach, and plum; (7) shield or portion of bark and wood
with bud and portion of leaf. Q. Improper bud, rounded, stout and short; a blossom bud, such as
occurs on the season’s growth of the cherry, nectarine, peach, and plum, especially when weakly or
stunted. R. Triple bud of peach, the centre bud being usually a wood bud, long, narrow, and pointed ;
whether there are one, two, or three buds, one must befa wood bud. s. Bud properly taken and pre-
pared for insertion in stock; (4) bark exposed by cut of thin-bladed sharp knife in taking off bud;
(2) part from which the wood has been removed leaving the eye intact. The whole bud is usually about
1 inch long.

INSERTING THE BuD.—T. Making incisions in stock; one vertical, an inch or inch and a half long,
the other transverse, thus forming a T. Both cuts must reach through the bark only. U. Bud inserted,
the corners of bark are raised a little so as to allow bud to be pushed in, this being done partly by the
fingers and finished by the handle of the knife placed upon the leaf stalk; cut off the top of bud
when the whole of it cannot be passed into the cleft. v. Bud tied; (7) bandage about 1 foot long,
usually started below the bud, the end being held by lapping the second course over it, and the upper
end being secured by drawing a bow through the second course. Take care not to bend over the bud
itself. Attention afterwards is necessary to loosen or remove the bandage in due time. This may
usually be done safely within a month, the portion of the stock below the bud should, in all cases, be
kept clear of useless growths, but the shoots above must be preserved or very slightly shortened. In
autumn the stock may be cut back to 2 inches above the bud, or a portion, 4 to 6 inches, may be left
for securing the growth from the inserted bud. w. Growth from bud; (7) vigorous shoot ; (s) secured to
remaining portion of stock ; (¢) point of cutting off portion of stock above bud, performed when scion
growth is about 12 inches high. A stake is necessary in some cases to secure the growth when no part
of the stock is left.

HEIGHTs oF BUDDING Stocks.—For root influence only, as the Quince stock for the pear, 3 inches ;
for trees generally on dwarfing stocks, 6 inches; for trees required with a stem or branches not nearer
the ground than 1 foot, 9 inches; and standards not having stems of their own should be budded at the
height of stem desired. The time ofibudding depends upon the season and condition of growth.
Cherries and apricots are sometimes ready by end of June, but later is preferable. Always do this
work while the bark, with the bud, can be properly detached from the wood. The order of budding
may be taken as follows: first, cherries; second, apricots; third, plums, apples, pears; fourth,
nectarines and peaches ; fifth, walnuts.

THE FRUIT GARDEN

276

PROPAGATION BY LAYERS AND SUCKERS

PROPAGATION OF FRUIT TREES 277

Qurnczs are raised from cuttings ; these, 1 foot long, are inserted in March.
RAsPBERRIES are increased by suckers taken from the old plants.
WatLnuts and Cuestnuts are raised from seed sown in April.

PROPAGATION BY LAYERS AND SUCKERS

LAYERING.—1I. Various modes; (x) tongue-layering, z.e, cutting the branch half-way through below
a bud or joint and making an incision upwards, keeping it open with soil, or a small stone; (y) ringing,
z.e, taking off a ring of both the outer and inner barks not less than half an inch wide, leaving nothing
but the wood; (z) notching, z.e. making a transverse cut half-way through the branch just below a
joint, and with a slanting cut upwards taking out a piece of wood. In layering, all buds not wanted to
grow must be removed, especially from the part below the soil; the layers in each case must be secured
with a peg inserted near the point of manipulation, covered with good soil 3 to 4 inches deep, and
kept moist to encourage rooting. The layers may be of one-year-old (1) or two-year-old wood (2), left
entire or shortened (dotted cross-lines).

LAYERING FOR SECURING STOCKS OF APPLE, PEAR, PLUM, AND QUINCE FOR BUDDING AND
GRAFTING.—J. Stock plant, kept very low or cut down level with the soil for encouraging as many
good shoots as possible ; (a) shoots not layered; (4) shoots layered. The process here shown is tongue-
layering, but the notching process is as commonly practised ; the layers are generally left with one or, at
the most, three buds above the soil, as indicated by dotted cross-lines, though sometimes they are left
entire. K. A shoot of the previous year’s layering then left entire, now detached and planted for
budding or grafting in due course. L. A layer of the previous year, then left with three buds above the
soil, detached in the autumn following and properly planted.

LAYERING SHOOT-Tips.—M. Cane from plant of blackberry, with point of the cane bent over and
covered with good soil in August ; roots are freely emitted, and in the autumn a strong bud, ‘‘ crown”

r ‘‘eye,” is formed for next year’s growth, the parent cane being severed atthe ground level. The young
plant can then be planted where desired. Currants and gooseberries may be layered in the same way,
selecting the points of firm shoots and layering them in freshly turned soil in summer. Secure with a
peg if necessary, and by autumn a quantity of roots will have formed ; the plants can then be detached
and transplanted. i

SUCKERS.—N. Root stock of filbert; (d) stem sucker, not usually desirable as it can seldom be
detached with good roots ; (e) attached sucker produced at some little distance from stem, and with a
fair amount of roots, such being suitable; (/) sucker or ‘‘ spawn" properly detached, and with good
roots for lifting and planting. Suckers of similar nature from plum, damson, and other trees are
sometimes used for increase of the respective varieties, or for stock. Apple, pear, plum, and quince
stocks are sometimes raised from suckers. The stock-plants, called ‘‘ stools," are cut down level with
the ground or nearly so, and the resulting shoots, when one year old, are earthed up with good soil
about 4 or 6 inches high, and emit roots freely in summer. Lifted in the autumn following and planted
they form suitable stocks for budding or grafting in due course.

278

THE FRUIT GARDEN

PROPAGATION BY ‘‘ EYES” AND CUTTINGS

CHAPTER XX¥V

WHOLE-FRUIT PRESERVATION

By S. PONDER (Confectioner to Her Late Majesty Queen Victoria)

THERE are many owners of gardens who, during summer and autumn, have
surplus fruits—peaches, nectarines, apricots, cherries, and pears—which they
would like to preserve for winter and spring use. In this chapter is detailed a
method practised by me for many years with invariable success. In all cases the
fruit to be preserved must be gathered before it is quite ripe, and the greatest care
observed in handling it, so as not to bruise it, for every mark will show in the
preserved fruit.

PgacH anp NecraRinz.—Have ready as many large-mouthed bottles as are
required, taking care that they are perfectly clean and dry. Cut the fruit into
halves or quarters, according to size; place them in the bottle with the aid of a
piece of flat wood or the handle of a tablespoon, having previously peeled the
skin off carefully. Have some syrup ready, which must be applied cold. This
is prepared as follows: To one pound of loaf-sugar add one pint of cold water ;
place on the gas-stove or fire, and boil gently for ten or fifteen minutes, skimming
the scum off as it rises to the surface ; draw the pan off the fire and set in a cool
place until cold. Have some well-cut corks ready that will fit tightly. Pour the
syrup on the fruit so as to cover it, but only up to the lower part of the neck of
the bottle, allowing a space of about 14 inch between the syrup and cork after

PROPAGATION BY ‘‘ EYES” AND CUTTINGS

Eyes, OR ONE-BuD CUTTINGS.—F. Portion of a vine cane marked for cutting into ‘‘ eyes,” or bud
cuttings ; (7) wedge-shaped ; (2) transverse cut above and below eye; (/) triangular one-bud cutting ;
(m) vine cut transversely above, wedge-shaped below; (7) vine eye cut transversely above and below ;
(o) vine eye cut from the back upwards and downwards, forming a triangle. G. Vine eyes properly
inserted and growing ; (f) the wedge-shaped, rooting from old wood with great freedom and growing
strongly ; (g) transversely cut above and below bud, such usually forming spreading roots; (7) triangular
bud, with roots forming freely. Eye, or one-bud cuttings of the fig are prepared ina similar way,
the wedge-shaped being the best.

CuTTINGS OF VaRiouS ForMs (those of Currants and Gooseberries are shown in the Chapters deal-
ing with these Fruits).—H. Apple, blackberry, fig, mulberry, and vine; (s) cutting of apple, a well-
ripened shoot of the previous summer's growth taken off the branch from which the cutting springs,
with a heel or piece of the branch. The buds are removed from the part intended to be inserted in the
soil, which should be about 6 inches or two-thirds of the length of the cutting, shorten it, if long, to two
or three buds above the soil, roots are formed from the heel of the two-year-old wood ; (¢) cutting of
blackberry root about 4 to $ inch in diameter, and 2 inches in length, planted nearly horizontally and
1 to 2 inches deep in loose, rich soil; (z) cutting of fig with a heel, roots are formed from the latter and
from joints; (v) cutting of mulberry, with portion of two-year-old wood; (w) cutting of vine with
three joints, inserted to the base of the highest bud, roots form at the base and between the joints.
Great care is needed to cut out all buds on parts below the soil, except with the blackberry root-
cutting.

279

280 THE FRUIT GARDEN

the former is put in; the cork should be first pressed in a cork-presser and well
rinsed in cold water before being put in the bottle; then with some tough string
tie over the cork three times, securing the string tightly under the rim or neck
of the bottle. The bottles being filled and securely corked, place them in a
deep copper or iron pan on a fire or gas-stove. Arrange some slips of flat
wood in the bottom of the pan, a little distance apart, so that the bottles may
rest firmly on the wood without touching each other or the sides or bottom of
the pan.

Fold each bottle in a cloth or a piece of coarse linen, and arrange them care-
fully in the pan; then with cold water fill to the level of the lower part of
the neck of the bottle. Cover all over with a coarse towel or other material ;
place the pan on a gas-stove or fire, heating the contents quickly almost to boil-
ing point. For this work it is well to be provided with a metal thermometer,
which should be placed in the centre of the pan between the bottles, and as soon
as the quicksilver rises to 200 degs. Fahrenheit immediately take the pan off the
fire and place with its contents in a cool room or cellar, and there let it remain
until quite cold. Then take out the bottles, and place in acool cellar or cupboard
until wanted. This is a simple and economical way of preserving summer fruits
for winter dessert, and that without the aid of chemicals or spirits of any kind, to
the use of which many have astrong objection. Preserved in this way, the fruit
will remain in perfect condition for many months.

Apricots.—The fruits should not be quite so ripe as in the case of the peach
and the nectarine. At the same time they should be fairly ripe and properly
coloured, but the flesh must not be too soft. Remove a few of the stones, adding
the kernels (after peeling them) to the fruits, about eight kernels to a bottle. It
will be found that apricots are more difficult to peel than peaches, therefore a
small sharp knife should be used, taking care to peel as thinly as possible and not
to injure the flesh. They must be cut in halves or quarters, and given the same
treatment afterwards as detailed for the peach.

Cuerrigs, Moretto or SwEeT.—For preserving these the following will be
found an excellent plan. The fruit must be sound and unblemished and gathered
perfectly dry. Cut the stalks, leaving them about half an inch long, and arrange
in the bottles so that the stalks have no chance of piercing the fruit. ‘To each
quart of best pale brandy (which should be 10 or 15 under proof) add three
ounces of brown sugar candy. ‘This must be crushed thoroughly, mixed with
three or four ounces of water, and then heated so as completely to melt the
sugar ; when cool add it to the brandy. The bottles must be filled with the
brandy after the sugar has been added, covering the fruit and reaching within
an inch of the rim of the bottle. Place a piece of well-softened bladder over the
mouth of the bottle, and carefully press a well-fitting bung into it. It should
go in about half or three-quarters of an inch; then tie down with a piece of
string, as in the case of the peach, and place in a cool, dry cupboard. At the
end of two or three months, untie the string, take out the bung, and add one or
two ounces of the candy and brandy syrup, to replace the quantity absorbed by
the fruit. A small piece of vanilla, two or three inches long, may with advan-
tage be added. Replace the bung and tie down. The cherries will be fit for

WHOLE-FRUIT PRESERVATION 281

dessert in the course of a month, or they will keep in excellent condition for
two years or longer.

Prars.—As regards these, any variety with solid flesh—such as Easter
Beurré, Beurré Bosc, and Vicar of Winkfield—will answer the purpose well
(I prefer the latter to any others), The pears must not be fully ripe (only fully
grown and partly ripened). They must be cut in halves or quarters, according
to size, peeled, the cores removed, and placed in a pan of water to which a little
lemon juice has been added, until all are ready. Place some syrup (rather weaker
than for the peach) in a pan to boil; lay in ten peeled pears, and gently bring to
boiling point. Let them simmer until a little tender; then take the pan off the
stove and place the fruit carefully in a bowl or basin with the syrup they were
boiled in, and of which sufficient must be placed in the bowl to float them.
Place the bowl of fruit on one side in a cool place until next day, when the fruit
must again be placed in the pan and a little more candied sugar added to the
syrup. Simmer all up again, and replace in the bowl as before. Early next
morning the pears and syrup in which they have been simmering must be placed
in bottles and finished off in the same way as mentioned for the peaches; or
they may be bottled as recommended for cherries, but in this case white brandy
is recommended in preference to the darker sort ; also, it is well to add a little
more sugar.

CHAPTER XXVI

INJURIOUS INSECTS AND DISEASES AFFECTING FRUIT TREES

By J. J. WILLIS

In the culture of fruit, whether in the orchard, open garden, or under glass, the
question of injurious insects and diseases is apt to be looked upon with some
amount of dismay, but after all these are rarely to be counted upon as per-
manent factors, and considered rightly they are the direct and perhaps the most
efficient means of keeping the fruit grower in a state of mental alertness.

There are three general types of difficulties in fruit growing, which have
been classified by Professor Bailey as follows :-—

1, Attacks by insects.

(2) The damage by those insects which eat or chew a part of the
plant, and which, therefore, are killed by the application of some poison,
such as Paris green. These insects include the whole tribe of cater-
pillars, worms, and beetles.

(4) Attacks of insects which suck their food, and which are, therefore,
destroyed by caustic applications which injure the bodies of the pests. All
the tribes of plant lice and scale insects may be placed under this head-
ing, and for these kerosene emulsion, resin washes, and the like are the
specifics,

2. Parasitic fungoid diseases, such as the apple scab, mildew of the grape,
leaf blight of the plum and pear, currant gall, canker, and the like are
characterised by definite spots, discolorations, or excrescences, which are more
or less distributed over the surface of root, branch, leaf, or fruit. Asa rule,
the leaves and fruits which are attacked have a tendency to drop from the
tree. The general treatment for these diseases is to spray with some fungicidal
mixture. The treatment is useful in proportion as it is applied early and
thoroughly. After the disease once gets into the tissues of the host plant,
it is difficult, if not impossible, to kill it. If, however, the fungicide is applied
before the parasite gets permanently established there will be less danger of its
obtaining a foothold. Even if the fungus has made headway, a thorough spray-
ing will check its progress.

3. The physiological and bacterial diseases or those which are termed con-
stitutional troubles. In these cases there are rarely any definite spots, as in the
attacks of parasitic fungi, but the entire leaf, or even the entire plant, or a large
part of it, shows a general weakening by disease, as if there were some cutting
off of the accustomed source of nourishment. Such diseases are very likely to
be seen in the general yellowing and dearth of the foliage ; in the dying of the

282

INJURIOUS INSECTS AND DISEASES 283

leaf along the main veins and around the edges, showing that the difficulty is
one which affects the entire leaf, and not any particular part of it. In general
there is a tendency for the foliage in plants so attacked to wither up and hang
on the tree for a time. ‘There are no specific treatments for troubles of this
sort. ‘The diseased plant or parts must be cut away and burned. All the
conditions which seem to favour the development of the disease must be re-
moved, Careful management in matters of sanitation is often much more
important than any attempt at specific treatment.

Injurious insects follow swiftly on the heels of disease, and disease is usually
further strengthened by the destructive agency of insect pests.

So far as our experience shows, the protection of our fruit crops from insect
ravages is likely to be an increasing difficulty, consequent on the increasing
extent of the areas in which one kind of orchard tree or fruit bush is grown
year after year, thus giving every opportunity for the established settlement of
the insect feeders on that special crop.

APPLE

Under proper treatment the apple tree is rarely affected by either disease or
insects. It is chiefly when injured by mismanagement, starved for want of
plant food, or too heavily cropped, that trouble ensues. Soil and climate are
powerful factors in the production of apple disease, and also frequently invite
the attacks of insects. ‘The chief causes of injury may, therefore, be stated to
be over-luxuriance or weakness of growth.

The chief diseases that attack the apple are canker, mildew, and American
Blight. The first is caused by bad drainage, the second arises from many and
the most opposite causes, such as improper manuring, over-cropping, excess of
heat or moisture.

The attack of the woolly apple aphis, commonly known as American
Blight, may be taken as an example of orchard infestation which is exceedingly
common, and is very injurious by destroying the health of the tree, and yet at
the same time is so open to remedy that it may with little expense or trouble
even be stopped at the outset. The presence of the apple bark plant louse or
woolly aphis may be easily detected by the cottony growth on the insects, giving
the appearance of a white film. When there are many it appears as if a knot
of cotton wool were sticking to the bough or even hanging loose in pieces
several inches in length.

With regard to remedies; soft soap, tar, or, in fact, anything oily, greasy, or
sticky that can be well rubbed on, and which by adhering for a time will choke
all the aphides that it touches, will be of use.

Other insects that attack the apple are the green-fly (Aphis mali), codlin
moth (Carpocapsa pomonella), blue-head caterpillar (Dilsba ceruleacephala), goat
moth (Cossus ligniperda), lackey moth (Bombyx neustria), lapped moth (Gastro-
pacha quercifolia), small ermine moth (Hyponomeuta padellus), apple saw-fly
(Hoplocampa testudinea), and apple blossom weevil (Anthonomus pomorum).

Of all these pests probably the codlin moth is most frequent and persistent,

284 THE FRUIT GARDEN

because the attack is one of the regular recurring yearly troubles of the fruit
grower, and although the maggotty or worm-eaten condition of the young fruit,
which we know only too well as causing it to fall in quantities before it is large
enough to be of any use may sometimes arise from apple saw-fly presence or
from other infestation, yet for the most part the mischief is due to the larve of
the codlin moth. Other of our orchard fruits are also liable to this infestation ;
pears, plums, peaches, quinces, and apricots are sometimes much injured.
Walnuts and chestnuts also have been found to be infested. Asa prevention
and remedy, the following plan may be adopted: Wind a hay-band in three
coils tightly round the trunk of a tree at a little distance from the ground, and
apply other hay-bands to the larger branches. These bands should be placed
around the tree early in June, and kept on till fruit harvest ; further, they
should be pushed up or down and the worms or chrysalids crushed that were
under them every week or two. Also the trunk of the tree should be kept
free from rough old bark so as to give the worms no other place of shelter, and,
lastly, the ground itself should be kept free from rubbish.

CHERRY AND Pear Saw-Fty (Selandria atra)—The small blackish moist-
looking larvz of the cherry and pear saw-fly, known as slug-worms, from their
great resemblance to the little slimy slugs feeding on the upper sides of the
infested leaves, are often not recognised as caterpillars from their very peculiar
appearance, from which they take their name. _ They feed on the leaves of
cherry, pear, plum, and sometimes on peach and quince, and they do serious
mischief by devouring the skin of the upper side of the leaf, so that the
remainder appears like a network of veins held together by the skin of the
lower side, which is left untouched and turns to a deep brown colour. The
destructive work of the caterpillars can be at times very rapid and complete.
The attack may be checked by dusting or spraying. The caterpillars, if
annoyed by throwing a caustic powder on them, such as quicklime or gas-lime,
can throw it off at first by exuding a coating of slime, and thus, as it were,
moulting off the obnoxious matter; but they cannot continue this process,
therefore a second application of the powder (soon after the first) takes effect
and killsthem. If a good time is allowed to elapse between the dressings
they will have regained the power to produce the slime exudation, and the
application will do little service. Heavily syringing the tree with strong
soapsuds applied by a powerful garden engine are very effective in getting rid
of this pest. Also a liberal dressing of lime and soot well mixed together is
a capital remedy; in this case a thorough washing of the foliage on the
following day, so as to clear off the adhering coating, is needed to complete the
work.

CURRANT

Currant ApHIDES or GREEN-FLY (Aphis ribis) are injurious by crowding
upon the under side of the leafage, and by their innumerable punctures and
drawing away of the sap, give rise to the brightly-coloured blistered growths
so often seen on the upper side of the currant leaf, and in bad attacks nearly

INJURIOUS INSECTS AND DISEASES 285

the whole of the foliage will be distorted and crumpled out of shape and
the fruit will be blighted. Where much damage is being caused, it is a good
plan to break off the leaves and burn them. In dry weather plentiful waterings,
so as to keep up good growth of the foliage, are a great check to aphis increase.

Currant Gati-mire (Phytoptus ribis)—The deformed bud-growths, which
for many years have been a source of great trouble to black-currant growers,
are caused by an exceedingly minute mite, too small to be seen by the naked
eye, which propagates in the buds and causes an unnaturally large development
of these into spherical green knobs, formed outside of greenish scales or abortive
leaves folding over each other, and inside of the various parts which would
gradually have developed into leaves, flowers, and fruit, but are ruined by the action
of the mites. These knobs may be found forming during the winter, while the
healthy buds are still of the natural shape, and in January will have attained to
as much as a quarter of an inch in diameter, and containing within them
numbers of the mites and some eggs.

PREVENTION AND RemEpy.—The method which is most frequently tried is
breaking off the galled buds and burning them, and though in this way many
of the mites are got rid of which would have otherwise spread infestation, yet
the plan is very far from answering as could be wished. Among treatment from
which some amount of good resulted was a dressing of 2 Ibs. sulphur and 2 lbs.
lime, boiled together in three gallons of water, further diluted at the rate of
two or three pints to a large pail of water, and applied with a syringe to the
infested bushes.

GOOSEBERRY

The gooseberry when planted in suitable soil is peculiarly free from disease,
but several insect pests are very troublesome. Among others may be mentioned
the magpie moth (4éraxas grossulariata), dot moth (Zamestra persicariz), goose-
berry and ivy red spider (Bryobia pretiosa), gooseberry and currant sawfly
(Nematus Ribesii), and the gooseberry and currant scale (Lecanium ribis). The
greatest amount of damage is probably done by the magpie moth and the saw-
fly caterpillar. The pretty butterfly-like magpie moth is one of the most widely
distributed garden leafage infestors. “The common garden food plants of the
caterpillars are gooseberry, red and white, and sometimes black currant, and
the foliage of apricot and pear is also attacked.

PREVENTION AND Remepy.—The habit of the caterpillars of wintering in
leaves (spun together) still hanging on the bushes, or sometimes lying among
any shelter on the ground beneath, must be taken advantage of to get rid
of the pest. At pruning time the bushes should be carefully gone over to
make sure that there are no leaves which may hold a caterpillar. When
currant bushes are trained on walls search is especially requisite. The longer
the pruning can be deferred the better, Pruning and dressing under the
bushes should not take place until after the fall of the leaves. All the
pruning and possibly infested rubbish from beneath the bushes should be
collected and burnt. Flowers of sulphur dusted on the leaves when the dew is

286 THE FRUIT GARDEN

on, or a liberal application of soot similarly used, are serviceable remedies
and safe.

The gooseberry and currant saw-fly attack is perhaps one of the most
destructive that bush fruit growers have to contend with, on account of its
frequent recurrence and the great powers of ruining the leafage of the attacked
leaves, even by scores of acres. The life history is that the female saw-fly
appears about May and lays her eggs beneath the skin of the leaf. The grubs
soon hatch and begin feeding on the leaf where they are placed, which they
pierce full of holes, and continue to feed upon until all the leaf, excepting the
mid-rib, is devoured. Thus they continue their work of destruction, moulting
from time to time, and hanging on to the leaf with their fore legs, their tails
in the air. After the operation of casting the skin for the last time, they
bury themselves in the soil to turn to the pupal state, from which the saw-
flies come out in three weeks in summer, or in the case of late broods in
the following spring. For prevention of attack, excepting what may be borne
on the wing by stray saw-flies from elsewhere, the most certain plan is autumn
or winter removal of surface soil from under the bushes. A deep hole
should be dug in some other place into which the removed soil with what-
ever may be in it is buried. The soil under the fruit bushes may be replaced
by that taken out of the hole, with the addition of some manure. Hand
picking is recommended, also dressings of sulphur powder when the dew is on
the bushes,

THE PEAR

The pear gnat midge (Diplosis pyrivora) is a very frequent trouble to pear
growers, from the damage caused by its little legless, yellowish white maggots,
living in numbers inside the young pears in their very early state. Conse-
quently, on the maggots feeding within the fruits the growth of the
young pears is checked and stunted, the centre decays, and they crack or
die and drop off. As preventive measures, in cases where the crop is in
reach, pick off the little stunted pears, also gather up the fallen fruit and destroy
as soon as possible. To this treatment a thoroughly good shaking of the
boughs of the infested tree so as to bring down the injured fruit will be of
service. Also spreading a coat of quicklime on a dry day beneath the infested
tree and then slaking it, might have a good effect in killing the escaping
maggots. When pears are grown in grass orchards a deal of the fallen infested
fruit would be cleared off by having sheep on the ground. If the tree roots are
not too near the surface the plan of turning the earth with its contained pests
would answer well. The pear leaf disease known as “blister,” which is
caused by a minute cylindrical four-legged mite (Phytoptus pyri), does great harm
to pear leafage. Where there are only a few leaves infested, or the trees are
small, it is well to pick those leaves off and burn them as soon as the attack is
observed. Most of the insects that prove disastrous to the apple may frequently
be found on the pear, and should be dealt with as already described.

INJURIOUS INSECTS AND DISEASES 287

THE PLUM

The plum aphis or green fly (Aphis pruni) is to be found on apple, medlar,
peach, and apricot, besides the plum, and is exceedingly destructive. Multi-
plication of the insects takes place by millions, and these close up the pores
of the leaves by their tenacious excretions and the mealy exudations from their
bodies. They are to be found collected in numerous colonies on the under
sides of leaves of the young shoots, and are sometimes found in parties on the
stems of the green fruits.

As a Remepy, washes with a foundation of soft soap are the most desirable,
because they have the great advantage of sticking in some degree to the aphides,
which is necessary in order to kill them.

The winter moth (Cheimatobia brumata) is perhaps the most injurious of all
our orchard insects. In some years, when favoured by drought and heat, the
mischief is widespread. The caterpillars prey on the leaves and buds of plum,
apple, pear, cherry, and nut, and sometimes on currants. In regard to this
pest it may be well to call attention to the fact that where young trees are
fastened to stakes it is necessary that something be done to stop the traffic up
these supports, and thence to the trees; also where bundles of sticks are tied
round the trees to prevent their being gnawed by animals, the guards themselves
will probably be a source of caterpillar attack at hatching time in spring unless
well looked after. ‘The guards or stakes, therefore, should be well tarred, and
a greased band placed on the tree above the supports or protections.

The following method of grease-banding for fruit trees was suggested by
the late Miss E. Ormerod, LL.D., which recommends itself by its simplicity
and cheapness, a consideration when some hundreds of trees have to be attended
to. The material employed is a kind of tough paper, which is used by grocers
for wrapping up butter, lard, and the like, and is known as grease-proof paper.
This is applied by a band, as many inches wide as is thought fit (the wider the
better), being passed round the stem of the tree. The band should be cut long
enough for the ends to overlap well, and these are fastened by paste. The
whole is made secure by a piece of bast mat tied round the paper near each
edge. This work can be rapidly and well done by women. On the paper
bands the grease may be spread in any way preferred, but the best way is
considered to be to lay it on with a thin, flat piece of wood, and plentifully,
both as to width of band and thickness of layer.

THE VINE

Probably of all the fruits under hot-house culture the vine is subject to
far more diseases than any other. The most troublesome is that known as
shanking, the next worst being mildew.

Shanking generally makes its appearance just when the berries begin to
change colour, and is continued with more or less activity until the crop is
ripe. It is first detected by the formation of a slender black thread round the

288 THE FRUIT GARDEN

berries, healthy growth is arrested, the stalks lose their vitality, and the berries
become shrivelled and very sour. The primary cause of shanking will be
found in the stoppage of a proper flow of healthy sap. ‘This may be caused by
a soil overcharged with organic matter, which condition, combined with bad
drainage, causes acidity of the soil; the vine will then develop luxuriance
rather than maturity and ripeness of wood. It may be that the foliage has
been destroyed by red spider, invited by too dry an atmosphere and too high
a temperature. A never-failing remedy for shanking is to raise the roots and
relay them in new compost composed of good virgin turf.

Mitpew (Peronospora viticola)—T his fungus causes two forms of disease.
If the leaf is attacked the disease is called downy mildew ; if the fruit, it is
known as brown rot. Leaves affected by this fungus show upon their upper
surfaces spots of a greenish yellow colour, while on the under side of the leaf
opposite these spots may be seen a peculiar downy or frosty growth. ‘These
spots may be quite small and few in number, or very abundant, the frosty
growth almost covering the lower surface. When the fungus is abundant, the
leaf soon yields to the disease, turns brown, and falls from the vine. In severe
cases the disease extends to the young branches. “The attack upon the fruit is
generally early, causing many of the berries to cease growing, turn brown, and
fall off. In treating grapes for this disease, Bordeaux mixture may be used with
good effect. Early washing of the vines is of advantage in freeing them from
spores which may have found lodgment in the crevices of the bark.

Powpery Mirpew (Uncinula spirals)—This disease usually makes its
appearance about the middle of summer. It attacks the leaves, young shoots,
and fruits, covering them with a powdery growth. It differs from the downy
mildew in covering the upper surfaces of the leaves with white patches of
various size and shape. Sometimes it spreads quite early over the surface and
resembles a delicate spider’s web. It does not send filaments into the tissues of
the host plant, but taps the epidermal cells with numerous minute suckers, and
through these saps the adjoining cells, while all the filaments are spread over the
surface of the leaf. The fruit when attacked shows upon the surface a whitish
dust. This rapidly spreads, and soon the berries shrivel and the skin cracks,
admitting other spores of decay, which complete the destruction of the fruit.
Being confined to the surface, this disease yields to the application of almost
any fungicide, but flowers of sulphur is probably the best.

Insect Prsts

Rep Sprer (Tetranychus telarius)—With the exception of the phylloxera,
red spider is the most general and troublesome pest of the vine. It is not a
true spider, but belongs to what are called spinning mites. It has a difficulty
in moving on perfectly smooth surfaces, but by means of its claws and the
pin-headed bristles with which they are furnished, it moves readily on the
under sides of the leaves, and fastens its threads to the hairs or slight prominences,
thus gradually forming a coating of web, among which it lays its eggs, and
under this shelter a colony increases with alarming rapidity, especially if the

INJURIOUS INSECTS AND DISEASES 289

house is kept hot, dry, and badly ventilated. The colour is various, depending
on the nature of the food ; possibly, also, in some degree on the age of the
individual. The attacked leaves may be known by their greyish marbled
appearance above, while beneath they are whitish and slimy from the covering
of the web. The red spider is most injurious to vines in hot, dry weather,
consequently washing and syringing, which will render the leafage and ground
moist, are serviceable. The extreme dryness of the air and soil are thus
counteracted and a healthy growth encouraged, which more or less counter-
balances the injury to the leaves from the suction of the mites. It is important
to check the attack at the very beginning, and for this purpose syringings
morning and evening are advised, sent hard at the under side of the leaves so as
to break the webs and wash them down with the contained mites. Sulphur
and soft soap combined in various ways are the most reliable remedies,

Turips (Thrips minutissima).—This insect is of a dark brown colour or
almost black. It feeds upon the leaves of the vine, thereby interfering with the
proper elaboration of sap, and being a dirty insect it soon spoils the fruit. Like
the red spider it flourishes best in a dry atmosphere. If taken in time sponging
with kerosene emulsion will be found a thoroughly effective remedy.

Meaty Buc (Dactylopius adonidum).—This pest is one of the most trouble-
some met with in vine culture. When once introduced it spreads from the
branches to the shoots, and thence to the fruit. A good remedy is to apply a
coating of methylated spirits with a soft brush. Fir tree oil and paraffin in a
diluted form also cause death to the pests.

Tue Vine Louse (PAylloxera vastatrix),—Of all the insects with which the
grape grower has to contend this is the most terrible, and no certain remedy for
its destruction has yet been discovered beyond that of taking out all the vines
and burning them, together with the soil in which they grow, thoroughly
cleansing, painting, and lime-washing the houses, then replanting with fresh
vines.

CUCUMBER AND MELON

As recently as 1896 a new species of leaf-blotch has been found to attack
both the cucumber and melon. The fungus has been named Cercospora melonis,
and it has spread with such remarkable rapidity that at the present moment it
is one of the most destructive parasites with which the cultivator of cucumbers
and melons has to contend.

The foliage is the first part attacked. Ata later stage the fruit often also
suffers. The first indication of the presence of the disease is the appearance of
a few small, scattered, pale green spots on the upper surface of the leaf. The
spots gradually increase in size and also in number, and often run together,
gradually passing through grey to a brownish colour. If at this stage the upper
surface of the diseased spot be examined with a pocket lens, it will be seen to
be covered with delicate upright brown threads, each bearing a conidium at
its tip. This represents the fruiting portion of the fungus, the mycelium
or hypz being buried in the substance of the leaf. The minute conidia
or reproductive bodies are carried from diseased to healthy leaves by currents

T

290 THE FRUIT GARDEN

of air, insects, clothing, &c., or by spraying ; and if the leaf surface is moist
such conidia germinate, and the germ tubes enter the tissues of the leaf
directly. Very frequently a leaf becomes quite dry, and crumbles to the ground
within twenty-four hours of the first infection, Such dead fallen leaves are
much more responsible for the rapid spread of the epidemic than are the conidia
which pass directly from one leaf to another. When the dry fragments of a
diseased leaf fall on damp earth, the mycelium present in the tissues quickly
commences growth and forms an exceedingly delicate cobweb-like mycelium,
which runs on the surface of the soil and produces myriads of very minute
conidia, which are dispersed by currents of air, and infect the leaves in a
manner similar to that of the larger conidia borne on the leaves.

Tue Mycetium in the soil originating from diseased fallen leaves continues
to extend and produces conidia so long as the requisite conditions as to moisture
and temperature are present. When these conditions fail the mycelium passes
into a resting condition, but readily assumes renewed activity when stimulated
by returning moisture and heat. By this means the fungus survives from one
season to another in the soil, and the disease is almost certain to recur year after
year in a house that is once infected unless the soil is thoroughly sterilized. It
is important to remember that the disease under consideration can only assume
the proportions of a destructive epidemic when attacking plants grown under
glass, and when a high temperature and an excess of moisture are present.
Such conditions, accompanied by a deficiency of light, result in the production
of “soft” foliage, and it is only such soft foliage that the fungus can attack.

PRevENTIVE Measures.—lf the foliage is fairly hard the disease cannot
assume the dimensions of an epidemic, and even if it appears it can be kept well
in hand by spraying. To accomplish this end a fair supply of air should be
admitted, so that the atmosphere is not constantly saturated with moisture. It
is wise to spray in anticipation of the disease, using a solution of potassium
sulphide (liver of sulphur), 2 oz. to 3 gallons of water, adding 2 oz. of soft
soap. It is important that the under surfaces of the leaves be thoroughly wetted
with the solution. If the disease be present the soil should also be drenched
with it. Diseased leaves should be gathered and burned before they decay and
fall to the ground. After a diseased crop has been removed, the soil should be
thoroughly drenched with a solution of “Jeyes’ Fluid,” in the proportion of
one ounce to a gallon of water.

SPRAYING CROPS

By WILLIAM CRUMP

Growing plants are liable to serious injury from two classes of organisms, viz.
noxious insects and parasitic fungi. Where either of these is allowed to flourish
it is impossible to practise successful fruit cultivation, therefore we must deal
promptly and thoroughly with these enemies. Generally speaking, this can
best be accomplished by spraying with an insecticide, the thorough application

SPRAYING CROPS 291

of which will be better understood if one has a good knowledge of the habits
and methods of development of the various insects or fungoid pests. Nearly
all these organisms are weaker or easier to destroy at some particular period of
their existence than at any other. We sometimes hear of Nature preserving
her own balance when not interfered with by man, by certain injurious insects
being destroyed by others not injurious to plants. Doubtless this does occur
to a certain extent, but the real difficulty lies in recognising and preserving the
insect friends, and furthermore in being able to secure and rely upon them in
sufficient numbers at the right moment to cope with the hordes of rapidly
multiplying enemies.

How Insecrs Frep.—Insects take their food in two ways: some bite and
others suck ; those which bite take, piece by piece, the tissues of leaf, stem, or
fruit of their host plant. Because of this they may be destroyed by placing
particles of poison upon the surface of the leaves, i.e. by spraying. A large
proportion of the injurious insects feed in this way, but there is also an im-
portant class which have a proboscis that they push into the cells of the plant
and suck out the sap juices. Insects of this kind cannot be destroyed by
coating their food plant with particles of poison, for such particles will not
enter their alimentary system, consequently one must use against them an
insecticide that kills by contact.

InsecricipEs.—T here are several such insecticides in common use, the most
important and safe being caustic alkali insect powder or paraffin emulsion.
Insecticides used in spraying may be broadly divided into two classes, viz. :
First, internal poisons, or those which take effect by being eaten with the
ordinary food of the insect ; and second, external irritants, or those which act
from the outside either by closing the breathing pores or causing death by
intense irritation of the skin. Substances used to destroy insects are called
insecticides ; those used to destroy fungi, fungicides. The most important
matter connected with these insect pests and spraying is to attack them on the
first signs of their presence, or, better still, to act on the old adage, “prevention
is better than cure,” for once they are allowed to get the upper hand they are
very difficult to dislodge, especially those which roll themselves in the leaves,
where the insecticide cannot penetrate. ‘The same remark applies to all the
aphides, which breed with such startling rapidity. We have found that an
insecticide, even when strong enough to kill every insect, at the same time is
harmless to the eggs, enclosed in their shining, hard, shell cases. Hence we
have to repeat the sprayings at daily intervals so as to endeavour to wet every
tiny insect as soon as it emerges from the egg, and thus prevent their reaching
the adult stage for further egg laying. A fruit and hop grower in Worcester-
shire has recently imported a large quantity of Californian ladybirds, as an
experiment to see whether they will devour aphides in the same good way as
they do in their native country. We shall watch this interesting and enter-
prising experiment with much interest. The worst feature is that spraying
has an injurious effect upon the ladybirds as well as the aphides.

The Board of Agriculture supplies gratis special pamphlets upon the most
common and injurious insect pests, and they contain much valuable informa-

292 THE FRUIT GARDEN

tion; and if some pressure could be put upon dilatory owners and growers so
as to compel universal spraying, we should all be gainers and have far less
occasion to cope with insect pests, especially with such winged species as the pear
midge (Diplosis pyrivora), which deposits its eggs in the opening buds of the
pear flowers secure and safe from any insecticide. We have taken care to pick
and burn every little infested pear each season, which is the only remedy; but
the case is hopeless so long as our dilatory neighbours allow them to propagate
on their neglected trees and to spread. Thus are formed breeding grounds
from which other orchards are infested. It is very necessary, therefore, that
all owners of such orchards should be compelled in some way to stop the damage
that is caused by the various insect pests they encourage.

CLEANSING Orp OrcHarps.—For this purpose there is nothing so effective
and so economical as caustic alkali (a burning wash) syringed through the trees
with an ordinary garden engine or hop-washing machine. The wash is made
by dissolving 1 lb. of commercial caustic soda in water, then 1 1b. of crude
potash in water. When both have been dissolved, mix the two well together,
then add 2 lb. of common agricultural treacle, stir well and make up with
soft water to make ten gallons. ‘The wash has a burning effect upon the hands
ard clothes, and care must be exercised in distributing it. “The best time to
do it is about the middle of February, and it will rid the trees of American
blight, the codlin maggot, apple blossom weevil, thrips, red spider, the apple
sucker, scale, earwigs, and many other insects that are killed by contact. If the
_ branches and stems of the trees are well wetted, the wash will clear all lichen
and mossy growths, and make the bark bright and shining. If a Vermorel
nozzle is used a long rod or brass tube can be added and so enable the worker
to direct the spray well up among the branches and away from himself.

Paraffin emulsion is prepared as follows :—Dissolve 2 lbs. of soft soap in one
gallon of boiling water, add two gallons of paraffin, mix the two well together
until quite a creamy emulsion is produced; one part of this concentrated
emulsion, mixed with 40 to 50 parts of water, is then ready for use through
the spraying machine or garden engine. The Vermorel Knapsack pump is a
most handy machine for garden purposes. The old-fashioned remedy for
aphides is still largely used, as it can be made in quantity on the premises, and
cheaply. Boil 10 lbs. quassia chips, 7 lbs. soft soap, with 100 gallons of
water ; syringe freely with this solution.

Poisons.—The above each kill by contact, but when we come to the
poisons, which we have to use to destroy the leaf-eating insects, far greater care
and skill must be exercised. In some seasons we have virulent attacks from the
winter moth, the mottled umber, the lackey moth, the ermine moth, and others,
and if they are not destroyed by the early application of one of the poisonous
liquids all the foliage will quickly be devoured. The best insecticide to use
against this class of insects is called Paris green. It is a chemical compound
of arsenic and copper. It is almost insoluble in water, but there is often a
small percentage soluble, and to prevent the injury this may do to the foliage it
is advisable to add a little lime water (made by slaking caustic lime in water) to
the spraying mixture. Paris green is a heavy powder, and the difficulty is to

SPRAYING CROPS 293

keep it in suspension, for unless the liquid is constantly stirred the powder
settles to the bottom of the vessel, consequently the mixture becomes of unequal
strength, and is liable to injure the foliage. An improved (more finely ground)
Paris green is now offered, and is a much superior and safer article. We have
also used London purple, a similar compound to the above, colour excepted,
and we have tried many of the newer forms of insecticides, but they are much
too expensive for large growers. On the other hand, they are generally useful
and effective. For the amateur and small cultivator, especially good and
convenient is extract of quassia now cheaply offered by dealers,

As a fungicide and remedy for mildew, we have found nothing better than
sulphur in some form, such as sulphide of potassium, or liver of sulphur, but the
Bordeaux mixture is excellent for spraying potatoes, or other ground crops. It
is hoped that at least some of the restrictions imposed upon the sale of these
widely used poisonous compounds will shortly be removed, so as to enable fruit-
growers to combat successfully against destructive insects and diseases,

CHAPTER XXVII

CONSTRUCTION OF FRUIT HOUSES

By A. DONALD MACKENZIE

Tue Vinery.—In fixing upon the shape, as well as the site of a vinery, local
circumstances must be taken into consideration, and must decide whether it is
made lean-to, semi-span, or full span. If there is an existing wall of sufficient
height and of good aspect the lean-to will, of course, be most suitable.
Although there is no fixed width for a vinery, it is very desirable that it should
be of a good width, that is, it ought not to be under 15 feet, and nearer 20 feet
if this can be managed. A very fair size is 18 feet, and with a back wall of
say 17 feet, will give a rafter of 22 feet with 4 feet in front.

SraBitiry.—In the construction of such a vinery details must, of necessity,
be left largely in the builder’s hands, but there are certain things which ought
to be considered essential. First, the stability of the structure. A 22 feet
rafter of the ordinary section, say 7 by 24 inches, must be supported, or it will
sag very badly. This support may be given by upright pillars under each
alternate rafter, with a strong angle-iron running the whole length from end to
end, supported by the pillars. Another method is by having strong cast-iron
brackets at the bottom of each rafter bolted to the front framework, and a similar
bracket at the top bolted to the back wall. This latter makes a very substantial
roof, and is quite in accordance with sound construction.

VENTILATION.—Another essential matter is the ventilation. No matter
what the size or the shape may be, a vinery should have full ventilation top
and bottom, with means of controlling the inflow and outflow. Both bottom
and top ventilation should extend continuously from end to end. In the front
the opening sashes should be hinged at the top to open outwards that the cold
air may impinge on the hot pipes. When the sashes are on centre points the
cold air gets in at the top and bottom simultaneously, which may injuriously
affect the lower portion of the vine, especially when the house is an early one.
Similarly the top ventilation should be hinged at the top to open x inch or
1 foot, as may be required. This should be done both top and bottom by
suitable gearing worked by a wheel or lever, and should be very substantial and
not easily put out of order.

TreEtis,—The wiring of vineries has developed in the direction of the wires
being kept further and further away from the glass. Forty years ago the
ordinary distance was 10 to 14 inches; later, this was increased to 16 inches ;
now many of the best gardeners prefer to have the wiring 24 to 30 inches from

the glass, the reason given being that the vine leaves are less apt to get scorched
294

CONSTRUCTION OF FRUIT HOUSES 295

or chilled with the increased distance between the glass and the leaves. The
wires themselves should be not more than 10 to 12 inches apart, and must be
supported below each rafter by light iron bars.

_ Earty Vinery.—If for early forcing, a vinery 18 feet wide would require
liberal heating power. There should certainly be not less than about 1 foot of
4-inch pipe to every 25 cubic feet of space. This would give eight rows from
end to end, and they would be best placed six rows in front about 2 feet off the
front wall and two rows next the passage. In exposed situations a larger allow-
ance of pipe should be made—six rows at the front and four rows next the passage
would not be too much. It is the worst economy possible to have too little
heating power, as, when the low temperature comes, heavy firing and waste of
fuel will take place, and the saving of the capital cost of two rows of 4-inch Pipes

Fic, 1.—EARLY (LEAN-TO) VINERY

(In Section)

is soon swallowed up, not to speak of the trouble and anxiety when there are 20
or 30 degs. of frost.

It need hardly be mentioned that where two or more houses are heated from
the same boiler provision must be made for heating every house separately. Fig. 1
is a section of such a vinery as described. ‘The main wall must be supported
on pillars and arched over, or, what is better still, the wall between the pillars
supported on light iron beams or plates.

Tue Semi-Span VINERy, when the aspect is south or nearly south, is con-
sidered to be preferable to the lean-to. _ Especially is this the case with a late
house ; the morning and evening sun shining through the back roof is supposed
to aid the ripening and colouring very considerably. The late Mr. William
Thomson of Clovenfords held this view very strongly. The mode of constructing

296 THE FRUIT GARDEN

asemi-span vinery is practically similar to the lean-to already described. Probably
even greater care should be exercised in very thoroughly binding the roof so that
there should be no outward thrust on the walls, which is the true principle of
roof construction. The roof ventilator on a semi-span roof should always be on
the south side; on no account, unless where exceptional reasons exist, should
the ventilator be on the north side. In dealing with these two types of vinery
construction an assumed width is taken and an assumed slope, but it is by no
means to be inferred that the very best grapes cannot be grown in houses of a
different width and a different slope. ‘There is no fixed rule: the wide house
will grow more, but it may not follow, better grapes. In short, a good gardener
will grow good grapes in a very poor house. Fig. 2 represents a section of a

WS
Sip

WSS

S

SX

SS

FIG. 2,—SEMI-SPAN VINERY

(In Section)

semi-span house, which, as will be seen, is practically the same in construction as
the lean-to.

Span-Roor Vinery.—For market purposes and where very large quantities
of grapes are required, or where there are no high walls, the span-roofed
form should be adopted, and there must be a radical change in aspect.
In the case of the lean-to and semi-span the vinery should face the
south with as little east or west aspect as may be practicable, but the span-
roofed structure should run north and south as evenly as possible, so that
each side may get an equal portion of sunlight and heat. ‘The span-roofed
vinery, being as it were two lean-to’s, should be very much wider if a large crop
is expected. A good width would be 30 feet, equal to two lean-to’s at 15 feet,
and giving a rafter with not too steep a pitch of about 19 feet. The sides in
this case also should be about 4 feet—1 foot of wall above floor level and 3 feet
of glasswork framing. ‘There should be ample means of ventilation, an opening

CONSTRUCTION OF FRUIT HOUSES 297

sash extending continuously from end to end each side of the ridge, and, of
course, the bottom ventilation, as in the lean-to, each side. A large structure
like this should have
upright pillars sup-
porting the ridge, as
the width is really
too much to do with-
out, unless very heavy
bracing is adopted,
and this is objection-
able as causing ob-
struction to the light.
A 30 feet wide
vinery, even for late
use, should not have
less than four rows
of 4-inch pipes each
side. It must be
remembered that, in (In Section)

proportion toitscubic

capacity, a span-house is much more difficult to heat than a lean-to—there is
not the great shelter of
the back wall. Fig. 3
is a section of a span
vinery.

Pracu - Housz.—In
the cultivation of peaches
and nectarines under
glass, the structures very
much resemblethevinery,
but generally less width
and a steeper pitch are
desirable. A fair width
for a peach-house is 12
to 15 feet with a pitch
of about 40 degs. The
mode of construction and
ventilating arrangements
aS a eee already described should

= ¥ be applied, but the wire
trellising must be quite
different. Whilethe back
(In Section) wall of a vinery is of

very little use for produc-

ing grapes, the back wall of the peach-house, at least the upper portion of it, is of
great importance for the growing of peaches. In order that the full use of this

Fic. 3.—SPAN-ROOF VINERY

cen

CQ MMi W

SSS

TK

wd
IM.

Fic, 4.—LEAN-TO PEACH-HOUSE

t

298 THE FRUIT GARDEN

upper back wall surface may be utilised, the front trellis should only be carried
half up the rafter. ‘The front trellis wires should be nearer the glass than the
vine trellis, but generally it is best to have a “drum trellis ” here with full space
between it and the front to allow a free passage. The back wall should be wired
about 6 inches clear,
and the wires here, as
well as in front, about 6
inches apart. Fig. 4 is
a section of a lean-to
peach-house with drum
-, trellis, the width shown

a ee being 15 feet, and six
a rows of 4-inch pipes.

= ee an ia Sets When it is necessary

~ . OF “yl =n % Seer 2 to adopt the semi-span
: 4 | === : * Rey oF SN

= = —_ = = form for a peach-house

== Sas ESS z ,)

eee z = the north rafter should

be short in order not to

FIG, 5.—SPAN-ROOF PEACH-HOUSE limit the wall space for

(In Section) the back trees.

The _ span - roofed
form of peach-house is frequently adopted, the aspect being, of course, north
and south, with the lower section only wired on each side, or, better still,
a curved trellis. Very good results have been obtained by having in a span
peach-house screen cross trellising—that is, below each rafter, say 5 or 6 feet
apart, a trellis from the front to the path, as illustrated in Fig. 5.

MeEton, CucuMBER, AND
Tomato Housgs.— Melon
and cucumber houses are
practically on the lines of the
ordinary forcing-house, and
may be anything from 10 to
15 feet wide; 13 feet may
be taken as a fair average,
giving 3 feet for the passage,
4 feet for the bed each side, —esmumreys3//\i
and allowing 1 foot for the
side framework. Fig. 6 shows
a section of this house, with y
side walls 3 feet high and 24 Fic, 6.—MELON OR CUCUMBER HOUSE
feet of glasswork, giving 54 (In Section)
feet to the eaves. The roof
should have a pitch of about 34 degs. The bed walls should be 24 feet above
the floor level, and go down about 2 feet below so as to form a channel for
pipes, which may be partly leaders for supplying a section of the house or may
be altogether for surface heat.

CONSTRUCTION OF FRUIT HOUSES 299

The remarks made in connection with the heating of vineries apply with
equal force here. There should be no attempt made to economise at the expense

of the heating surface. A 13-feet melon-house should have four rows of pipes
below each bed for bottom heat,

four rows below the pathway, ,
which should be of grating, and
one row each side, for top heat,
beneath the ventilator. There
should also be ventilators in the
bed walls and openings through
the bed itself close to the front,
to allow the heated air below
the bed to escape. All the
various circulations of pipes
should have controlling valves
for regulating or cutting off the
heat when required. The wire
trellis on each side need not
extend beyond the doorpost, and
should be about 10 or 12 inches Fic. 7.—LEAN-TO STRAWBERRY HOusE

from the glass. Such a house (In Section)

as has just been described is

excellently suited for the growing of melons, cucumbers, tomatoes, and for
general forcing purposes.

For Earry STRAWBERRIES either the lean-to or span shape will do equally
well, the main requirements being shelves as close to the glass as may be
practicable, and easy facili-
ties for watering. Figs. 7
and 8 are sections of lean-
to and span strawberry-
houses.

PINEAPPLE STOVE. —
For some time the culti-
vation of the pineapple
under glass has gone down
very much, probably owing
to the introduction of the
cheap foreign article, and
it is only in a compara-
tively limited number of
Fic. 8.—SpAN-ROOF STRAWBERRY HOUSE gardens that the cost of

S

Gengway

30
3 °

=] a

itt

-

B] SSG

~ =” = <4

(In Section) fuel necessary to maintain

\ the high temperature re-

quired is considered well repaid by the possession of the finer home-grown
fruits. [he maintenance of a temperature of about 70 degs., with perhaps
20 degs. of frost outside, requires great heating power, and a construction with

300 THE FRUIT GARDEN

as limited a cubic capacity as may be practicable. For this reason the lean-to
form of pine stove with thick walls, or sunk into the ground, is very suitable,
Fig. 9 is a section of such a house, which should face due south. It should not
be less than 15 feet wide with a passage all round, and a 9-feet bed in the
middle. The height should only be sufficient to allow a man to walk along
the passages. Some growers prefer the span form, especially for late and summer
fruiting pines. Sucha house,
ao) about 15 feet wide, should
be kept as low and as flat as
possible, with a passage all
round. The bed must be
raised as near the glass as is
practicable, and there must
be plenty of heating power.

The heating is shown
here with six rows of pipes
in the bottom of the bed,
six rows on edge at the front,
and four rows on edge at the
back. ‘There is no need for
any glass framework at the
front, the necessary ventila-
tion may be got by box
ventilators in the wall im-
mediately behind the front pipes, and the top ventilation in the manner already
described, or by box ventilators in the back wall similar to those in the front.
It is advisable that with such an arrangement of pipes, separate valves should
control the bottom heat and the surface pipes.

Tomato-Housgs,—The demand for tomatoes for a number of years has
been very great, and is likely to continue. It is one of those easily grown
fruits which will thrive almost anywhere with a little protection from the cold.
Where large quantities are required, other things being favourable, a span-
roofed house answers admirably, running north and south in the usual manner.
A convenient width is 15 feet, although houses 20 feet or even wider are often
built.

The vinery construction will apply to the tomato-house, except that the
latter must have higher sides and probably less heating power. The plants may
be grown in pots on the floor or in beds, and trained up the front and sides on
a trellis.

If the tomato-house is made wide for large quantities, a much simpler
arrangement may be adopted without beds, ‘The plants may be grown in pots
or in the open soil, suitably prepared.

OrcHarp-Housz.—An orchard-house is simply as large and commodious
a glass structure as is practicable with two necessary arrangements — first,
means of ample ventilation; second, means of thorough heating well dis-
tributed. An orchard-house to be worth the trouble should not be less than

SSS QAAwWY

i
F
| AM
ia
, BDBDS

FIG, 9.—PINEAPPLE STOVE

(In Section)

CONSTRUCTION OF FRUIT HOUSES 301

20 feet in width, better still, 25 or 30 feet. There is no practical difficulty in
constructing such a house, nor in heating it, but the ventilation is not quite so
simple. It is easy enough ventilating as for a vinery, but this is not enough for
an orchard-house. The ideal ventilation would be the power to remove
the roof and sides altogether in warm weather, allowing the warm wind
to play through without let or hindrance. As this is quite impossible the
nearest approach to it is to have all the sashes in the front to slide, which
is frequently done. The roof also might be arranged in sashes to slide hori-
zontally—not in the old way of sliding down from ridge to eaves, but from
end to end. If this were done one-half of the area could be exposed when
desirable, and though it would be somewhat expensive in first cost, the ultimate
results would be well worth it. Fig. 10 represents such an erection, 25 feet
wide, with the sashes open. The arrangement inside as to whether there

FIG. 10.—ORCHARD House

should be wire trellis like a peach-house, or whether the fruit trees should
be in pots, tubs, or planted in the border must be left to the individual
judgment of the gardener in charge.

Borrers anp Heatinc ApparaTus,—Coming to deal generally with boilers
and boiler-setting, chimneys, &c., it is undesirable to be dogmatic. ‘There are few
subjects upon which there has been more controversy than hot-water boilers,
and it is still going on. One great difference between garden hot-water boilers
and steam boilers must not be overlooked, and it isthis. With a steam boiler
what is wanted is quick, clear combustion, careful and frequent stoking,
or, as the case may be, stoking by mechanical means. It is the opposite with a
hot-water furnace. We need a furnace that requires little attention, and
will go for many hours without assistance; in short, what is best is a slow
smouldering fire which will keep the heat up from 8 p.m. to 8 a.m. For this
reason a garden furnace should be of ample capacity, and on the face of it, one
would think, of horizontal rather than of vertical form.

The common saddle is a well-known form of boiler. There are many

302 THE FRUIT GARDEN

modifications of it more or less of an improvement. ‘There has been a keen
controversy for some time regarding the best steam boiler for marine and naval
purposes, the old cylindrical or Scotch boiler being largely replaced by some
form of water-tube boiler. In a recent trial in two ships of war, one having
the cylindrical, the other the Belleville water-tube boiler, it was found that what-
ever advantage the latter might have for use in a fighting machine, neither in
economy nor efficiency was there much, if any, advantage over the old type.
On land the Cornish and Lancashire boilers still hold their own as economical

steam generators.
It is thus evident that the horizontal boiler and furnace are still in favour.

FIG. 11.—ORDINARY PLAIN SADDLE Fic, 12,—THE TERMINAL SADDLE
BOILER BOILER

The hot-water saddle boiler may be said to represent the upper portion of the
cylindrical boiler, and made of ample size is most suitable for horticultural work.

Fig. 11 shows the ordinary plain saddle, very suitable, when favourably
placed, for 600 or 800 feet of 4 inch pipes.

When the apparatus is from 800 to 2000 feet the terminal saddle, Fig. 12,
should be used, because it occupies
less space than the length of the
plain saddle would require.

For still larger apparatus up to
10,000 or 15,000 feet of 4-inch
pipes a steel riveted modified
Cornish boiler is certainly the
best. Fig. 13 shows such a
boiler. ‘The writer has used one
of this shape, 21 feet long, 44
feet diameter, with water bars, to
heat 15,000 feet of 4-inch pipes,
with the very best results. Of course where valuable plants are at stake it is
not desirable to depend upon one boiler ; there should be a duplicate in case of
a breakdown.

It is unnecessary to refer to the army of small independent upright boilers
of all “shapes and sizes” which are on the market. These may do their

FIG, 13.—STEEL RIVETED MODIFIED CORNISH BOILER

CONSTRUCTION OF FRUIT HOUSES 303

work well enough, but the writer knows of no advantage they have over the
horizontal form for horticultural work, while open to several disadvantages, one
of these being the necessity for a deeper stokehole. It may be proper at this
stage to point out that one most essential point for the success of a hot-water
apparatus is to have the boiler well below its work. A boiler which might
very well heat 1000 feet of pipes with 10 feet of head should not be put to
more than 750 feet with 5 feet, Many grave errors and great trouble might
be avoided by giving due weight to this fundamental principle, and while not
dogmatising in any way I would urge that the boiler should be sufficiently low
down to give at least one-half inch of rise on every 10 feet of piping, and as
much more as might be reasonably practicable.

It need hardly be said that while it is very desirable to choose a good type
of boiler, it is also essential that ample size should be allowed for. An incident
which came within the writer’s experience will illustrate this. In the winter
of 1879, which was very severe in Scotland, a saddle-boiler in the well-known
gardens of Sir Charles Tennant, The Glen, gave way and a new one had
to be put in. During December this boiler consumed 3% tons of coal per
week, and a man had to sit up half the night putting on fuel. A new boiler
of the same type was put in, but more than double the size, which took only
2 tons per week and required no attention from 9 P.M. till 7 A.M. next morning.
During January as well as December the weather was very severe, from 20 to
30 degs. of frost being registered nearly every night.

SETTING THE Borrer.—The setting and building in of a boiler is a most
important matter, but this need not be enlarged upon further than to give these
instructions :—First, to have a reasonably high chimney, and, if possible,
to have it as high as any surrounding buildings or trees; second, to have the
chimney as near the boiler as possible ; and third, to have the flues large and
every crevice accessible for easy cleaning. No such flue should, even for a
very moderate-sized, indeed for any, boiler, be less in area than 90 inches—
10Xg inches—and for large boilers correspondingly larger, If there is a
necessity for a long horizontal flue it should be made 2 or 2} feet square, or
even larger still if very long, in order to reduce the friction to a minimum.
The writer has known a flue from a 6-foot terminal boiler, 15 x15 inches,
60 yards long, to be an absolute failure, but when enlarged to 36 x 30 inches
give a first-rate draught. Such a flue should be made of good brick and be
as nearly watertight as possible. It is desirable, especially with long boilers,
that the flow socket should be at one end, and in setting the boiler that the end
upon which the flow socket is fixed should be at least one inch higher than the
other, to make sure that no air can be locked up inside the boiler.

Water Bars.—Reference has been made to water bars. These are
undoubtedly of great advantage where they can be applied, but the water must
be soft. Where there is anything more than eight or nine grains of hardness
to the gallon there should be no attempt to use water bars, ‘The best way
of all is to feed the heating apparatus with rain water, then all danger from
incrustation is avoided. When hard water is used for heating purposes provision
must be made for clearing out the boiler and pipes adjoining at frequent

304 THE FRUIT GARDEN

intervals, otherwise the whole may get choked with lime. The water pumped
up from the chalk in the eastern and southern English counties should be
carefully guarded against.

With reference to the working of the hot-water heating apparatus, where
there are several circulations at various levels there is often great difficulty in
preventing blocking or short circuiting, and while a good deal can be done
to avoid this trouble by carefully fixing the pipes, it is necessary that the valves
regulating each circulation should be manipulated in a careful and intelligent
manner. ‘Those circulations nearest the boiler or on a higher level should be
carefully watched to ascertain the amount of restriction necessary to give
the longer and more sluggish circulations an equal chance. It is quite im-
possible to formulate any rule which would apply in all circumstances, and the
attendant should be encouraged to study the apparatus from day to day until, by
experience, he learns what degree of restriction each valve must be set to.

“FdQIYOTA NUAHLAOS NI qUNLTAD ATddPANId

COCOANUT PALMS ON THE SIIORES OF LAKE WORTH,
FLORIDA.

CHAPTER XXVIII

FRUIT CULTURE IN AMERICA

By H. E. VANDEMAN (£x-Pomologist, U.S.A. Department of Agriculture)

Tue aboriginal inhabitants of North America paid only slight attention to the
culture of fruits. ‘The Aztecs and other tribes of the arid south-western
country practised irrigation, perhaps for thousands of years before what we call
civilisation reached them, and probably cultivated a few fruits along with the
cereals and vegetables which they grew. When the Spaniards first established
colonies on the coast of Florida, they brought with them seeds of the orange,
lemon, lime, and perhaps other fruits; and the natives, seeing that the trees
produced good fruit and were of easy culture, planted them in their rude way.
The Catholic Mission Fathers introduced the peach and some other fruits at
Santa Fe, New Mexico, and other places along the southern border of what is
now the United States; and in California they planted the orange, lemon,
olive, apricot, date palm, the European grape, and a few of the more common
fruits.

The English settlers at Jamestown, Virginia, in 1620, perhaps first planted
the apple and pear. ‘They also planted the grape and some other European
fruits. The colony of William Penn at Philadelphia did the same. ‘The
Pilgrim Fathers of New England brought over the apple and other fruits that
were the foundation of many of the earliest orchards in that region. The
French planted the apple, pear, peach, and the grape in all their settlements in
the valley of the Mississippi and along the Great Lakes of the north.

Thus we see that American fruit culture dates from the earliest settlements
that were made on our shores, if not from time out of mind by the aborigines.
Those who came to establish homes in the New World brought with them the
fruits that they knew and prized in the old country beyond the seas. In
addition to the fruits just mentioned there are many native fruits, and nuts of
great value that have been brought under cultivation, and mostly within the last
century. Nearly all our berries, with which we are especially well supplied,
have principally been developed from those growing wild. ‘The same is partly
true of the grape.

For the first two centuries after America was settled by the white race
there was very little progress in fruit culture, and for several reasons. The
means of transportation, both at home and to foreign countries, was slow and
expensive. The principal uses for fruits then were the making of wine and cider.
Refrigeration, evaporation, and canning were practically unknown. The
varieties were mostly inferior, and some of the best in quality were unadapted

395 U

306 THE FRUIT GARDEN

to the climate. Tools and methods of culture were crude. But within the
last fifty years there has been more improvement in those respects ten times
over than in all the time before. The most fanciful dreams of the fruit growers
of the early part of the last century have been more than realised. This
industry in America has fully kept pace with the march of progress in the
sciences and arts by the improvement of varieties, of methods of culture, and
extension of planting. The Civil War, which lasted from 1861 to 1865, was
the dividing line between the two great eras of our horticultural progress.
Before that time the culture of fruits was chiefly experimental. Many of the
foreign varieties had not proved satisfactory, and they were under trial, or being
gradually abandoned. ‘There were many noble-minded men who gave their
best endeavours to the origination of new varieties and the testing of others,
Among them were C. M. Hovey and Marshall P. Wilder of Massachusetts ;
Charles Downing and Patrick Barry of New York; Dr. John A. Warder,
George W., Campbell, Jared P. Kirtland of Ohio, and many more.

During the first fifty years of the last century the eastern half of the great
Mississippi Valley, which lies between the Alleghany Mountains and the
Mississippi River, was being settled. ‘The pioneers carried the seeds, cuttings,
and plants of the best fruits from their eastern homes across the Appalachian
chain of mountains, and planted them in the virgin soil of the territory then
called “The West.” It was not long before a greater interest was manifest in
fruit-growing by reason of the larger crops and finer specimens grown there
than had ever been seen in the older partsof the country. The first commercial
orchards of considerable size, of the apple, pear, and peach with a very few
exceptions, were planted then and there. The Southern States had not yet
awakened to their possibilities in fruit culture, for under slave labour scarcely
any other crops than cotton, tobacco, and sugar were produced. The Rocky
Mountains and Pacific States were mere territories covered by roving bands of
Indians and a few trappers, miners, and stockmen, with here and there some
trees or vines planted around the pioneers’ cabins.

After the Civil War there was a great expansion of our industries and popula-
tion, Many of the Federal soldiers, who had seen the natural advantages of the
Southern States, purchased land, and began to improve the country they had
helped to devastate. “They planted orchards, vineyards, and berry fields on the
old cotton and tobacco plantations. A large portion of Florida was turned into
a fruit garden. The building of the Transcontinental railways solved the
question of the settlement of the Pacific Slope and the mythical American desert
that was supposed to lie in that direction. ‘The great prairies were dotted with
farms and orchards. ‘The dry plains and tablelands of the Rocky Mountain
regions, sparsely covered with brush, cacti, and stunted grass, being naturally
fertile, were irrigated and made to produce the best fruits in abundance.
The giant forests of Oregon and Washington were invaded by lumbermen
and home-seekers, and they have been partly replaced by orchards and berry
fields that now yield some of the largest and best fruits grown in America.
The fruits of California are known almost all over the globe for their abundance
and excellence. In its early days California was thought to be suitable only

FRUIT CULTURE IN AMERICA 307

for cattle ranches and mining operations, yet it has developed into the most
interesting fruit-growing region in North America, if not in the world. The
diversity of its climate and soil is such that almost every kind of fruit can be
grown somewhere within the limits of the State, from the apple which
flourishes in the mountain sections, to the mango and other tropical fruits that
succeed in the sheltered valleys along the southern coast.

THE APPLE

Of all the fruits in America there is none that equals the apple in excellence,
popularity, and profit. It was first brought here by the English pioneers who
settled on Roanoke Island, North Carolina, and at Jamestown, Virginia, and a
little later, by the Pilgrim Fathers, who founded Plymouth and other colonies
on the New England coast. It is perhaps grown here with greater success than
anywhere else in the world, for it attains its highest excellence with us accord-
ing to the verdict of the jurors at the World’s Exposition, where products of
orchards from all countries have been shown. Only a few of the Old-World
varieties are considered of much value ; not that they do not flourish here, but
having taken them as a basis, seedlings have been grown which in many
cases surpass them in size, colour, and flavour. Each year adds new varieties
to the list, and most of them are chance seedlings that have come up in fence
corners and other out-of-the-way places, in old seedling orchards, or in nursery
rows. ‘The choicest and most popular sorts grown in our orchards to-day have
originated in this way. ‘There are now nearly five thousand named varieties of
the apple mentioned in books on Pomology, including those introduced from
abroad, but only about two hundred are commonly grown in our orchards.
They range in season from early summer to the next May. The popular
commercial list comprises less than fifty varieties.

ApptE Orcuarps.—Almost every farm in North America has an apple
orchard of sufficient size to supply the home, except in some parts of Canada, a
few of the most northern States of the Republic, and in the extreme south,
where it is too warm. Many of these small orchards furnish a surplus for sale,
and sometimes the few acres of apple trees yield more clear money than the crops
on all the rest of the farm. From the early settlement of the country to about
fifty years ago, apples were cultivated in America mainly for cider making,
because that was the prevailing use for this fruit in Europe, whence our fore-
fathers came. But cider is now rarely made even by those who have plenty of
apples. We have developed into a race of fruit eaters. Commercial apple
orcharding has attained gigantic proportions. It began fully one hundred years
ago, stimulated by the trade with England, which sprang up about that time,
through the sale of a variety called Newtown, or more lately, Albemarle Pippin.
One orchard of 20,000 trees of this variety was planted early in the last
century in the Hudson River Valley, in New York, from which apples were
sold in London as high as £4 per barrel, wholesale, for a short time. This
orchard finally fell into decay, and it was not until after our Civil War, or about
1865, that apple-planting again began to develop vigorously in a practical way.

308 THE FRUIT GARDEN

The broad and fertile prairies of the Central States and the valleys and
mountain plateaus of the Rocky Mountain regions, afforded ample opportunities
for growing apples on a large scale. It is not uncommon now to see an apple
orchard of fifty to a hundred acres belonging to a single person. ‘There are
others, belonging to orchard companies, of more than two thousand acres in
extent.

Meruops oF CuLrurE.—The methods of apple culture, and of all other
branches of fruit culture to-day are very much in advance of those of a few
years ago. Horse power has largely taken the place of manual labour. Even
the plough has been laid aside in many cases for other improved tools.
There are harrows and horse-hoes of various kinds that stir and pulverise the
ground over a wide space. ‘The old plan of leaving the apple orchard in grass,
thus making a meadow or pasture of it, is found to be a bad one. The trees
grow so much better, and the fruit is so much larger and finer, that many of
those who have had their orchards in grass have ploughed them up, and are
giving the ground good tillage, with most favourable results. Although most of
the large apple orchards are in the States west of the Mississippi River, there are
some of considerable size along the Appalachian Mountain chain, which runs
north and south through the eastern tier of States. The land in the latter region
is mostly hilly, and some of it mountainous, but the soil and climate are
especially adapted to apple culture. Western New York is also a famous
district for apple culture.

Dwarr AprLe TREEs are rarely grown in America, except in a few small
fruit gardens, nor are fruit trees of any kind trained on walls or as espaliers.
We use the open orchard style. Many trees of the older apple orchards were
trained with trunks from 6 to 8 feet high that ploughs and waggons might be
driven beneath them, but this is rarely seen now. ‘The trees are headed about
24 feet from the ground and induced to make abundant lateral branches. The
trunks are thus shaded from the direct rays of the sun, which in some districts
prove injurious to apple trees; danger from wind is less than if the trees were
tall, and they are much more convenient for pruning, spraying, and gathering
the fruit. Another marked advance in apple culture is the system of close plant-
ing. Instead of trees 30 to 50 feet apart, they are set about half that distance,
with the ultimate intention of cutting out about half or more of the trees when
they become crowded, thus giving abundant room to those that are left. An
improvement upon this plan is, instead of using all of one variety, to plant
such as will come into bearing early for the temporary trees, and for the
permanent trees such as come into bearing later, and will live to an old age.
This is the approved plan now adopted by our commercial apple orchardists.
It is, fortunately, true that there are varieties of good flavour and with other
points of excellence that suit the two purposes. The temporary ones will begin
to bear in from four to six years after planting, and need not be dug out until
they are ten to twenty years old, while the permanent trees will remain pro-
fitable until thirty to fifty years old or more.

VaRIETIES.—As might be expected, the wide variation in climate and soil
make corresponding differences in the behaviour of varieties of apples. Some

FIELD OF PINEAPPLES AT PALM BEACH, ON THE. SHORES OF LAKE WORTH,

FLORIDA.

‘STTIH YUFMOT FHL NO AUF SCUFHONO ANNAN “PINUOAITFID NI DNIAXT FNAUd

FRUIT CULTURE IN AMERICA 309

that are very popular in one district are almost worthless in another. In the
Central and Western States all sorts begin to bear earlier than in the east, and
die sooner. In the northern part of the Mississippi Valley the climate is so cold
in winter that our ordinary varieties will not succeed, and to meet these
conditions hundreds of Russian ones have been introduced; but they have
proved to be of such poor quality, with few exceptions, that seedlings have been
originated, some of which already combine hardiness of tree with good quality
of fruit. Through these efforts it is expected that apple culture will become
a success almost to the southern line of Manitoba. The list of popular varieties
is so large that it is difficult to decide which to omit in mentioning those that
are most esteemed. ‘There are two classes, one for family use, which is properly
composed of such varieties as are of high quality, regardless of their beauty,
productiveness, or other points that make them suitable for the commercial
orchardists ; and those of a strictly commercial character, regardless of their
finer qualities. In some of the varieties we have both requisites combined, for
some of the very best of those for home use are equally good for market purposes.
All things considered, perhaps Baldwin and Ben Davis are the two leading
commercial apples of America, but neither of them is of high quality. York
Imperial, Winesap, Jonathan, Missouri, Gano, Rhode Island Greening, and
Northern Spy are also very popular. Grimes is the very best of the dessert
apples, and Esopus Spitzenburg, Yellow Newtown, Roxbury, Fameuse, and
Hubbardston are all varieties of great excellence. All of those so far named are
winter apples, and yet not one of them is of foreign origin. “There are summer
and autumn varieties in abundance and of good quality. Of the former are
Early Harvest, Red June, Summer Rose, Benoni, Early Joe, Garden Royal,
and Primate; and of the latter, Jefferis, Maiden’s Blush, Fall Wine, Bonum,
Fall Pippin, Gravenstein, and Mother. All of these except Gravenstein are of
American origin.

THE PEACH

Next to the apple the peach is the most important fruit cultivated in America.
It was first grown by the Spaniards in their early settlements on the coast of
Florida and Mexico. ‘The native Indians seeing that it was of easy culture
carried seeds into the more remote regions and planted them there, thus adding
greatly to the distribution of this fruit. From this stock there is to-day a type
of the peach, and a very good one too, known as “Indian,” to which belong
some of our best varieties. The French pioneers also introduced peach culture
wherever they located, but it was planted in very few of the early English
settlements. Sooner or later this fruit became widely distributed, and was at
first used largely for distilling into brandy. For this purpose the common
seedlings were good enough, but, as our people under the better enlightenment
of modern civilisation gave up the custom of drinking this fiery beverage, it has
become practically restricted to the saloons, and the peach crop is put to better
uses.

Types oF PeacHEs.—The choicest seedlings have been selected, given
varietal names, and been propagated by budding. Such a thing as an orchard

mace) THE FRUIT GARDEN

of seedlings is now almost unknown, except in a few remote districts where
modern methods are not practised. The Persian strain is most commonly planted,
with some varieties of the Spanish type. However, within about the last
twenty-five years two Chinese types have been introduced, which have added
materially to the value of the peach in America. One of these Chinese types
is the Peen-to, which is from Southern China, and is almost tropical in its
character. It is not hardy over the larger part of the peach territory, but will
endure the peculiar seasons of the extreme south, especially Northern and
Central Florida, where the common ones will not succeed. All the varieties of
the Peen-to strain are from one to two months earlier in ripening than the others.
The fruit is small and has a peculiar, rather bitter taste, but finds favour in a
limited way before the larger and better flavoured varieties ripen. “The North
China type is of very superior character in several respects. ‘The varieties are
mostly large, some of them are the largest of all peaches. They are generally
creamy white both in flesh and skin, except for a slight blush. By crossing
with others of the Persian type, some of the most valuable varieties we have ever
grown have been originated. ‘The Elberta, which is to-day the most popular
of all our market peaches, came into existence by an accidental cross of this
kind.

DisrripuTion.—The territory over which the peach succeeds is quite as
extensive as that of the apple, and the two are almost identical, except that the
peach is less hardy and cannot be grown so far north as the apple. On the
other hand, it extends farther south. The most famous regions for growing
peaches are the Chesapeake Peninsula, the mountain slopes of Western Mary-
land, the plain regions of Georgia, Eastern Texas, the Ozark Plateau, which
latter includes parts of Arkansas and Missouri ; several favoured regions along
the Great Lakes, especially Southern Ontario, Western New York, Northern
Ohio and Western Michigan ; the warm valleys of the Rocky Mountain regions
in Western Colorado, Utah and Idaho, and many parts of California.

PeacH Orcuarps.—lIn all these districts, and in a less degree in many
others, peach culture is a leading industry. ‘There are orchards of two
thousand acres and more belonging to one firm or person, and those of a
hundred acres are common. ‘The production is enormous. Railway trains are
made up, daily, of loaded peach cars alone at a single station. Most of this
fruit is sold in the markets, and consumed in a fresh state or canned by the
housewives for winter use. Large quantities are used by the canning factories
and gigantic evaporators. In California a considerable portion of the enormous
crops is dried in the sun. This product is of the finest quality, because of the
large size of the fruit and the absence of rains to damage it while curing.
California and Oregon together have shipped over 40,000,000 lbs. of dried
peaches in one year, and this amount is soon likely to be exceeded. But it is
in the homes of our people that the peach is enjoyed more than elsewhere.
Scarcely a farm or country place of any kind is without a small peach orchard,
and many village plots have a few trees that furnish a considerable quantity of
fruit. It sometimes sells at a shilling per bushel, and from two to four shillings
is very common. Whether eaten fresh from the trees, served with cream and

FRUIT CULTURE IN AMERICA 311

sugar for desert (a dainty dish unknown in Europe), canned, preserved, or dried,
the peach is delicious.

Cu.ture.—The trees are set about 15 to 20 feet apart, trained with low
heads and the land thoroughly tilled ; except by those who are too careless to
treat them properly. In soils not rich in plant-food, for instance, where it is
sandy, it becomes necessary to fertilise. “There are various ways of doing this,
the most common being, to apply German potash salts, Chilian nitrate of soda,
and dissolved phosphate rock ; but some growers find ways of saving the expense
of the nitrate, by growing leguminous crops between the trees every few years,
such as German clover and peas, which gather nitrogen from the air, and when
ploughed under, add not only this important plant-food to the soil, but humus
as well. Thorough tillage in most soils helps to unlock the natural fertility
already there, but the best peach growers find it profitable to apply manures of
some kind. ‘The trees are headed about 12 to 24 inches from the ground, and
are kept from making long and straggling growth when in wise hands. The
branches are cut back quite severely every year, that there may constantly be
an abundance of new wood, as it is only on this that the fruit is borne. Early
spring is the season when this work is done in the east and north, but in the
southern States and on the Pacific slope, where the winters are usually mild, it
is done all through the winter season.

THINNING THE FRutr after it is about one-fourth grown is now a common
practice, although only recently adopted, even by the most progressive peach
growers. The trees often set so many that they would be broken down and
almost ruined or very much weakened. Some unprogressive growers allow
this state of things to exist at the present day, but they are gradually coming to
see that thinning is profitable from every standpoint. ‘The distance apart for
the peaches on the branches is usually about 6 inches, but some of the most
advanced growers thin them to 8 and even 10 inches apart. It is the large
fruit, containing a large portion of flesh as compared with the stone,
that brings most profit to the grower, and satisfaction to the dealer and
consumer.

VaRIETIES.— The varieties most largely grown are Elberta, Mountain Rose,
Early Crawford, Chairs, Fitzgerald, Late Crawford, Oldmixon Free, Salway,
and Carman.

The exporting of American peaches has barely begun. A few were sent
to England some years ago, but the transportation charges were so great that
further attempts have been rare. However, enough has been done to show that
it is possible, and it is now being done by the Government in an experimental
way, in order to determine the possibilities of the trade under modern methods
of refrigeration. A temperature of 32 degs. Fahrenheit seems to give the best
results. The shipments to London in 1902 were profitable. It may be that
American peaches will yet appear in quantity and at sufficiently low prices for
the English public to taste them, if not to eat them freely.

NECTARINES are merely peaches without the usual downy covering. They
are grown very rarely in the regions east of the Rocky Mountains, because of
the curculio, but on the Pacific side there is no such trouble, and as many are

315 THE FRUIT GARDEN

grown as are desired. Even there, only a few are cultivated, however,
because the trade does not call for many.

THE PEAR

Along with the apple from Europe came the pear, with the first settlers.
There are seedling trees now standing near Detroit, Michigan, and in healthy
bearing condition that were planted by the French missionaries more than two
hundred and fifty years ago. While we cannot boast of more than a few such
trees we have many that are from fifty to a hundred years old, and bearing
abundantly. The first tree of the variety which we call Bartlett, was brought
from England to America nearly one hundred years ago, and planted at
Dorchester, Massachusetts. It is still in a healthy condition and fruiting.
This variety originated in Berkshire, England, where it *- called Williams’, but
when the variety was brought to this country the name was lost, and it was
renamed in honour of Enoch Bartlett, who first propagated it and sent out the
young scions in America. It is our leading pear to-day, both for home and
market use. Most of our varieties came from France and Belgium, but some
came from England, Germany, and Russia. ‘There were brought from China,
about 1850, seeds of the common pear of that country, which we have named
“Sand pear,” perhaps because of the gritty and acrid character of the fruit.
The trees proved to be very healthy and vigorous, and from a supposed cross
between the bloom of one of these trees and a Bartlett standing not far away,
about 1870, came a seedling that has been named Kieffer, which has almost
revolutionised pear growing in America. ‘The fruit is of only fair quality, and
many may think it very poor ; but it is large and beautifully coloured when ripe,
and the flesh is very firm. It isa great canning pear. But the main points in
its favour are the almost ‘perfect freedom of the tree from blight, which is the
greatest drawback to pear culture in America, its vigour, and constant and
abundant bearing. Kieffer pear trees are to-day planted by the million, and
the fruit is in a fair way to capture the market. Poor as it is, the exporters are
sending the fruit to England and other foreign markets, and the sales seem to
encourage larger shipments. ‘There are many other seedling pears of American
origin that are superior in many respects. “The Seckel is one of these, and it is
the most delicious in flavour of all pears. It is small, but the tree is very hardy
and almost proof against blight. While most varieties are accidental seedlings,
some of our pomologists have made careful and systematic efforts to produce
seedlings by crossing, and have thus originated several varieties of excellence.

Pgar CULTURE is common in every part of the Continent, except Southern
Mexico, Alaska, and the northern parts of Minnesota and British Columbia.
It is remarkable how well this tree adapts itself to almost every soil and climate
in America. While the fruit is not nearly so popular as the apple, yet it is
used more or less in almost every family, and is sold in all our markets in some
form. Canned and evaporated pears are among the standard supplies of all
grocers. California, where all conditions seem to conspire to the success of the

FRUIT CULTURE IN AMERICA 413

business of growing and curing pears, alone produces many millions of pounds
of this product.

Dwarr Tregs.—Many years ago the planting of dwarf pear trees was
quite general, but now there are few who will plant them except in small
places. Dwarf trees grow well and bear at an early age, but they do not prove
nearly so profitable for commercial growers as standard trees. Where only a
few trees are needed, because of very small space in which to grow them, or,
if one is anxious to have fruit very soon, the dwarf trees have an advantage ;
but, for general use, pear trees are much better on the Pear than on the Quince
stock. ‘They grow larger, live longer, and are able to bear much more fruit
per acre than the dwarfs. Most of the dwarf pear orchards were planted in
New York and New Jersey, and in nearly every case Angouléme is the variety
used, as it does better as a dwarf than any other. The distance apart at which
dwarf pear trees are commonly planted is from 12 to 16 feet, and they are kept
headed back by annual prunings. Standards are set from 20 to 30 feet apart,
and are not pruned very severely, except in California, where closer planting is
followed and the trees are pruned annually and severely.

AmeERICAN BiicHt.—The greatest enemy to pear culture in America is the
blight, which often destroys whole orchards, especially in the Eastern States,
where the climate is moist. In California and other Far-Western States there
is very little of it. A rank growth of the branches and weather that is both
warm and wet furnish ideal conditions for its spread. This leads to a system of
culture in the east which does not include the stimulation of rank growth. It
is a common practice to allow grass to grow in pear orchards, rather than till
the ground, but some of the best growers object to this, and practise frequent
tillage because of the better fruit obtained. The only known method of keeping
the blight from spreading is to cut away the affected branches; it is often very
difficult to detect the diseased parts until they are almost dead. Cutting out
diseased wood as it appears, like fighting fire, is about the only successful
thing to do.

THE PLUM

There are three classes of plums grown in America—the European, Japanese,
and American, ‘They are quite distinct botanically and in their characteristics,
and each has its special points of value. ‘There are native plums growing in
almost every section of the country, from the Arctic regions to the tropics, and
the fruit was gathered and eaten by the aborigines from the earliest times and by
the early colonists. But in comparison with the cultivated plums of Europe,
which are varieties of Prunus domestica, they are poor, being very sour and in
some cases almost inedible.

Evrorzan Prums,—When the best European varieties were planted in the
rich, virgin soil of this new world, the trees grew rapidly and in some cases bore
fruit of good quality in abundance. But there soon appeared a dread enemy in
the shape of a little beetle that laid eggs in the young plums. ‘They hatched
into grubs and caused the plums to sicken and drop off. It had always attacked
the native plums and some other fruits, but most of them were able to outgrow

gen THE FRUIT GARDEN

the injury. In some favoured sections this insect did not exist, and such is the
case now, and there the choicest varieties are grown in abundance. The most
favoured of these regions is the Pacific Slope, for the plum curculio has never
been seen west of the continental divide, which is the Rocky Mountain chain.

Prune Orcuarps.—In California, Oregon, Washington, and Idaho prune
culture is a leading industry. There are vast areas there devoted very largely to
prune orchards, and the size and quality of the fruit, as well as the immense crops
grown, are a wonder to all who see them. Last year I had three prunes grown
in Oregon that together weighed a pound. One trouble is that the trees break
down under the heavy loads of fruit. Hogs are sometimes fattened on them,
but they are principally used for curing and selling in a dry state. California
alone has produced in one year over 100,000,000 lbs. of dried prunes. In
that State the summer and autumn seasons are practically rainless, and drying is
done on trays in the open air. In Oregon, Washington, and Idaho it is done in
evaporating-houses built for the purpose. By the excellence and great quantity
of our home product we have almost shut out foreign prunes, which once were
all that we had. Instead, we are now exporting prunes to the English and
French markets. Tragedy, Golden, Fellenberg, Sergent, Sugar, and Agen are
the leading varieties used for drying.

In the Central and Eastern States these prunes succeed fairly well, but the
ravages of the curculio must be overcome. ‘This is done by shaking the trees
and catching the beetles in a sort of inverted umbrella trap. It is, however, very
tedious and rather costly. No prunes are dried east of the Rocky Mountains.
Among the best sorts, unsuited to drying, are Green Gage, Yellow Egg, Grand
Duke, Bradshaw, and Lombard.

JapanrsE PLums.—Within the last twenty years many varieties of the
Asiatic species, Prunus triflora, have been imported from Japan, and many more
have originated by planting their seeds.) There have been numerous hybrids
produced by crossing their flowers with those of the European and American
ones. Luther Burbank, of Santa Rosa, California, has been most active in this
work, for he has produced thousands of crosses in this way, some of which are
already named and well received by practical fruit-growers. The Japanese
plums are quite hardy and most abundant bearers. ‘Their fruit is variable in
size, but most varieties are large. ‘They are purple, red, yellow, and almost
white, but none are blue. The flavour of most of the varieties is sweet and very
agreeable. Burbank, Abundance, Ogon, Wickson, Kerr, and Satsuma are some
of the best. Strange as it may seem, they are almost proof against the curculio,
which makes them very desirable.

American Piums.—lIt is only within about the last twenty-five years that
our fruit growers gave any attention to the cultivation and improvement of
native plums. ‘This was brought about by the need of such sorts as would be
proof against the curculio, and at the same time hardy on the prairies of the
Upper Mississippi Valley, where the climatic changes are very violent and the
temperature is very low in winter. At first the best of the varieties growing
wild were brought under cultivation. Some of them proved so good that they
are now numbered among the standard plums of orchards and nurseries. The

FRUIT CULTURE IN AMERICA 315

varieties of Prunus americana are the hardiest, and more of them are under culti-
vation than of any other native species. Wyant, Stoddard, Hawkeye, Ocheeda,
and Rockford are among the best. They will succeed where the temperature
drops to 45 degs. below zero. ‘There are several other native species that are
not very hardy but have choice varieties. But the hybrids between all these
species and the foreign sorts, especially the Japanese, are of the greatest interest.
Although this work has only fairly begun, the results are already very satis-
factory.

CurrurE.—The common distance apart in the orchard for plum trees is
about 20 feet. Thorough tillage is the rule, and where the soil is thin manuring
is essential. In the great prune orchards of the west very little fertilising is
necessary, because of the natural richness of the soil. Orchards of one hundred
acres or more of one variety are common there. From a single point, in Cali-
fornia and adjacent States, it is possible to see thousands of acres of prune orchards,
and all kept scrupulously clean and under a high state of cultivation. There are
different opinions about pruning plum trees, as with those of other fruits, but it
is the general practice to cut back rather severely for about four years to secure a
stocky form and then prune moderately each year after.

THE APRICOT

Of the many fruits that came from Europe to America the apricot has been
grown about as long as any, but owing to the ravages of the plum curculio,
which has proved a terrible pest to it, it was only occasionally that a tree bore
profitably until the settlement of California. There, and in all the region west
of the Rocky Mountains, apricots are grown with the greatest ease ; indeed one
of their chief faults is over-cropping. There are very extensive apricot orchards
in the valleys of California and Idaho, and to some extent in Oregon, Washing-
ton, Arizona, Utah, and the western part of Colorado. In those regions they
are grown principally for drying and canning, although all that are needed for
home use are consumed in the fresh state, and many thousands of bushels are
annually sent to our eastern markets. Californiaalone has sold over 30,000,000
pounds of dried apricots in one year. In a few districts of the East, especially in
New York, the apricot is grown in a commercial way. The trees are planted
about 25 feet apart and cultivated the same as peach trees. No more beautiful
sight in the way of growing fruits can be found than an apricot orchard loaded
with fruit ready to be gathered. The trees require frequent pruning. The best
varieties have been brought from Southern Europe and a few from Asia, but
many of those most highly prized are seedlings of native origin. Royal, which
is a French variety, and Moorpark, of English origin, are two of the most
popular varieties grown. Newcastle, Eureka, and Routier are of Californian
origin.

THE CHERRY

There are no cherries of importance indigenous to America. The best
varieties have been brought from Europe from the time of the earliest settle-

316 THE FRUIT GARDEN

ments of the country until now, and chiefly from France and Germany.
Within recent years the demand for varieties that will endure the severe cold
of the north-western plains has caused the introduction of several varieties from
Russia, but most of them are of such poor quality that they are of little value
compared with the standard sorts. Many seedlings have also been grown from
the first imported varieties, and are now among the most valuable grown,
Generally speaking, there are two classes of cherries—sweet and sour—although
there is a more rational classification by which they are divided into Mazzards,
Hearts, Bigarreaus, Dukes, Amarelles, and Morellos. ‘These classes all have
well-defined distinctions, but for our present use we will consider only the two,
the first including all those of upright, rank-growing habit and bearing sweet
or mild-flavoured fruit, and the second those varieties with low heads, slender
twigs, and very tart fruit,

Disrrizgution.—The region where cherries succeed best is on the Pacific
Slope, especially Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and California. Some have been
grown there that were by actual measurement over an inch and a quarter in
diameter, and those an inch in diameter are common. The foothills and valleys
of the Appalachian mountain-chain, from Western New York to Southern
Virginia, are well suited to cherry culture. In all of these regions there are
single trees which have borne more than fifty bushels of fruit ina year. Over
the rest of the territory where the apple, peach, and other ordinary fruits
succeed, which includes the province of Ontario in Canada in addition to
most of the United States, cherry culture is more or less successful. Sour
cherries will endure more severe cold and more violent changes than the
others.

Cuttrure.—Cherry trees being of variable size and habit of growth are
planted differently. ‘Trees of the sweet class generally require to be about
30 feet distant and sometimes more, but the sour varieties do not need to be
over 25 feet apart. Clean culture is best for them, and manuring the soil
that is not naturally rich. Of the sweet class there is a very large list of
excellent varieties, of which the Tartarian, May Duke, Napoleon, Bing,
Lambert, Centennial, Hortense, and Windsor are among the best. Of the sour
class, which has fewer varieties, the Richmond, Dyehouse, Montmorency, and
English Morello are the most popular.

THE QUINCE

Of all orchard fruits the quince is the least valuable, and is only grown
sparingly. Almost every farm or small country place has a tree or two, and
sometimes a small orchard is found. ‘The quince delights in rather moist soil
and a cool but not severe climate. In some districts there are commercial
orchards as large as 40 acres. The trees are set about 15 feet apart, trained
very low, and kept in a high state of cultivation. The variety called Orange
is the best, although there are a number more that are good. Rea and Missouri
are early, and Champion and Van Deman late ones.

“FINYOAITFID NI SNISIFUY DNIAUC

FRUIT CULTURE IN AMERICA 317

THE GRAPE

Grapes grow wild in every part of North America, from the St. Lawrence
river to the Gulf of Mexico. There are twenty-six recognised species of Vitis,
varying in hardiness of vine, character of fruit, and in many other particulars.
No part of the world is so rich in native grapes as North America. The
Spaniards made wine of them in Florida as early as 1564; the English
colonists did the same at Roanoke, Jamestown, and Plymouth prior to 1630,
and the French at their settlements along the Mississippi and elsewhere, but
they all found it inferior to that made from the grapes of their native countries.
They naturally concluded that if wild grapes grew everywhere here, so would
the delicious sorts that had come down to them from Palestine. Cuttings were
brought over and planted. William Penn established a vineyard of the varieties
of Vitis vinifera near Philadelphia in 1683. The French planted vineyards of
these choice sorts in Virginia and along the Mississippi. The most notable
attempt was made by James Defour of Switzerland, in 1799, in Lexington,
Kentucky, where 633 acres were selected, and a company with $10,000 capital
organised. But all these attempts proved disappointing. ‘The vines did not
flourish, and no one could tell why. It was the ravages of fungus diseases and
the insect called phylloxera, one working on the leaves and fruit, and the other
on the roots, yet in such ways as were then mysterious to the viticulturists.
The native grapes were proof against them.

ImpRovEMENT OF VaRIETIESs.—The next step was to select the best wild
varieties, and here began the improvement of our native grapes, which has
developed into wonderful proportions. Although these first varieties have
long since been abandoned for better ones, they gave a great stimulus to
American grape culture. ‘The next epoch of importance was the introduction
of three varieties which came up from self-sown seed, that were the results of
the accidental cross-pollination of our native grapes with some of the delicious
foreign varieties that had so utterly failed to flourish. “These were the Isabella,
Catawba, and Delaware, all being of distinct and widely separated origin, All
of them were eminently successful, and the Catawba and Delaware are now,
after more than fifty years of trial, counted among the most delicious and
successful of our grapes. But the discovery and introduction of the Concord
grape had the most potent influence of all. It was discovered growing wild
near Concord, Massachusetts, about 1850, and is of pure native blood, being a
chance seedling of the species Vitis Labrusca. It is to-day one of our leading
grapes, and there are millions of acres of it in bearing, scattered from Canada
to the Gulf of Mexico. From it have been grown thousands of valuable
seedlings, directly and indirectly, from which have been selected many choice
varieties. Some of them are the result of skilful crossing with the best varieties
from southern Europe. The varieties are red, white, and. black, with all the
intermediate shades and tints, and they vary as much in flavour and other
characteristics, but they seem to meet our wants, except for raisins.

Vineyarps.—T he first commercial vineyard of importance in America was
planted by Nicholas Longworth, about 10 miles below Cincinnati, Ohio, on the

318 THE FRUIT GARDEN

hills overlooking the Ohio river, and chiefly with the Catawba. Many more
were set there, until the hillsides for miles around were dotted with Catawba
vineyards, but the mildew and black rot, two native fungus diseases, almost
ruined them because of the European blood in this variety. In Northern Ohio,
along Lake Erie and eastern Lake Ontario, and among the smaller lakes of
Western New York, where climatic conditions are not so favourable to the
disease, the Catawba succeeds very much better. Many thousands of car-loads
of grapes are annually shipped from Western New York to all parts of the
eastern States, and sold at a very low price. ‘The varieties are mostly Concord,
Catawba, Niagara, and Delaware, although there are many more almost equally
good. The southern States, especially Florida, North Carolina, and Texas,
also produce many grapes of the same character, which find a ready market in
the north because of their earliness, “The central States, especially Kentucky,
Illinois, Missouri, Kansas, and Michigan, are well suited to grape culture. In
Wisconsin and Minnesota the vines have to be laid down and covered with
soil during winter to protect them, but in all the other regions nothing of
the kind is necessary.

Tue Vine In Catirornia.—But in all North America there is no region
where the grape flourishes as it does in California and some other States of
the Pacific Slope. There the most delicious grapes of the Mediterranean
countries are at home. They ripen their clusters in perfection under the glow-
ing skies. ‘The grapes of Eshcol, perhaps, did not equal those of California. It
is nothing uncommon there to see single clusters weighing 4 to 5 lbs., and they
sometimes reach 15 lbs. “Their quality is excellent. The size and numbers
of the vineyards are without comparison anywhere in-the world. ‘There are in
California vineyards of 2000 or more acres under one management. ‘There are
wine-cellars many acres in extent. "The raisin industry is immense. Nearly
110,000,000 Ibs. of raisins, filling 6000 large freight cars, have been marketed
in a single year. Shipments of fresh grapes are as extensive as the eastern
markets will justify. Flame Tokay and Corinchon are the principal varieties
sold in the fresh state, and for making raisins the Muscat of Alexandria and Sultana.

Cutrure.—At first the European methods of planting, training, and culti-
vating vineyards were followed, but our native grapes would not do well with
such short pruning. ‘This led to wider planting and the use of trellises instead
of stakes. It is rare that the rows are planted in the eastern vineyards closer
than 8 feet, with the vines 10 feet apart in the rows, There are many styles
of trellises used, and different methods of pruning and training ; but posts with
three wires attached are most common, and a long spur system of pruning. In
California and all the region where European grapes are grown they are usually
planted in squares 8 by 8 feet apart, and the vines 4 feet in the rows. This
gives better opportunity to work the soil and remove the trimmings and fruit.
In all but a few cases the vines are trained to stumps about 2 feet high, from
which the bearing wood grows out each year. The pruning is very severe, for
only mere stubs of the young wood are left at the top of each stem. No trellis
or other support is needed, except in the cases where a few varieties are grown
that will not endure this treatment, and while the vines are very young.

FRUIT CULTURE IN AMERICA 319

In all parts of the country and for all classes of grapes thorough tillage by
horse-power is the common practice. ‘Tools are made that leave very little to
be done by hand. Manuring is resorted to where the soil is not naturally
fertile enough, but this is rarely the case until the vineyards have borne several
crops.

THE BERRIES

Undoubtedly North America leads the world in the popular use of berries.
They are not a luxury with us, but a common article of food. The aboriginal
inhabitants used them freely, as they grew in the wild state, and they are still
so gathered in large quantities by our people; but almost every native species
has been brought under cultivation and others introduced from foreign countries.
This work is still going on, and many crosses are made in every conceivable
way between varieties, and in some cases between species, with the most
favourable results.

THE STRAWBERRY.— The most common of all this class of fruits is the
strawberry. It grows wild from Alaska and Hudson’s Bay to Mexico. There
is not a State or territory where it is not cultivated and the fruits consumed in
great abundance. Both city and country people enjoy strawberries and cream
when the fruit is in season. By the modern means of transporting in re-
frigerator cars strawberries are sent for thousands of miles, and it is possible to
find a few in the fancy markets at almost any time of year. During the flood-
tide of ripening the humblest may indulge in at least an occasional feast of fresh
strawberries. They are sometimes retailed at five cents per quart. There are
single railway stations from which more than 100 car-loads of 16,000 quarts
each are sent in one season. Fields of 50 to 100 acres belonging to one
grower are not uncommon, ‘The methods of culture do not vary greatly, and
all of them include the use of horses very largely. By the use of modern tools
there is little left for the hand-hoe to do. Even planting is done by machinery
in some cases. “The most common system of cultivation is what is called the
matted row. The plants are set about 2 teet apart in rows that are from
34 to 5 feet apart. By frequent stirring of the soil with horse-cultivators it is
kept loose and free from weeds, except in the immediate line of the plants,
where some handwork is often necessary. ‘The young plants are allowed to
spread over a strip, varying, according to the wish of the grower, from I to 3
feet wide. Another plan is to put the rows about 3 feet apart, and the plants a
foot apart, or a little more, in the rows, and keep all the runners cut off. ‘This
necessitates what is called the stool system. It produces the largest berries, but
requires much work. By either method the best growers never allow the plants
to bear more than two crops, and some but one. If they are left longer the
weeds and grass become very troublesome, and the berries are not so large as on
young plants. It is cheaper and better to plough them under and spend the
labour on new plantations, The native varieties are well flavoured but small in
berry, and this caused the first attempts at cultivation to be made with the
English varieties. But the two species were soon hybridised, and a new race
was thus originated that surpasses either alone. We now have varieties of

320 THE FRUIT GARDEN

exquisite flavour that will yield from 6000 to 20,000 quarts per acre, There
are about 500 named varieties of good quality, and more are being raised every
year. Michel, Glen Mary, Crescent, Aroma, Bubach, Warfield, Marshall,
Williams, and Gandy are a few of the best.

Tue Raspperry is another very common fruit in America. It grows wild
in many regions, but not everywhere. “There are at least three species in
cultivation. Fewer raspberries are gathered in the wild state than of most
other berries, but not because they are poor flavoured or small. The first
cultivated raspberries were of the European species, but they were soon dropped
for the more valuable natives. By the selection of the best seedlings and by
crossing a very choice list of varieties has been developed. ‘There are two dis-
tinct classes of raspberries in general cultivation. One is a native species, Rubus
occidentalis, which never spreads from the roots, but layers at the tips. The
fruit is either black or yellow. Some of the best varieties are Kansas, Ohio,
Eureka, M‘Cormick, and Gregg, all of which are black. The other class is a
combination of our two species, R. strigosus and R. neglectus, and a few crosses
of the European species, R. Idaeus. The fruit is red or purple, except an
occasional yellow variety. Cuthbert, Columbia, Cardinal, Malboro, Loudon,
and Golden Queen are the leading varieties. ‘The plants are set about 3 feet
apart in rows that are from 6 to 10 feet apart. Horse culture is used to keep
the soil loose and prevent the escape of moisture from the subsoil. Stable
manure is the common means of maintaining fertility.

BLacKBERRIES are so abundant in the wild state that only within the last
fifty years have they been brought under cultivation. We have more than a
hundred named varieties of very choice quality, including the dewberries, which
are trailing species of the blackberry family. The upright blackberries are
grown in rows, as described for the raspberries. Sometimes they are mulched
with straw. Any coarse manure or litter is excellent. The Kittatimy,
Agawam, Minnewaska, Erie, Eldorado, and Snyder are a few of the best
varieties. [The dewberries or trailing species ripen much earlier than the
other class, and although they are more troublesome to cultivate and train, they
are desirable because of their season of ripening. Lucretia, Mayes, and Windom
are among the best varieties.

GoosEBERRIES are only grown to a limited extent, because we have other
and better berries, and also because mildew affects the European ones. Our
native sorts are proof against this disease, but their fruit is small although of
good quality. The English and German gooseberries are being cultivated more
than formerly, because it has been discovered that spraying the bushes with a
preparation of sulphur will prevent the ravages of mildew. In some sections
gooseberries are grown in large fields and cultivated by horse-power, but usually
only as many are grown as each farmer may want for home use. Whitesmith,
Industry, Red Jacket, and many seedlings of native origin from both our own
and foreign species are grown.

Tue CRANBERRY is a native of the bogs and marshes from the North
Atlantic coast to Alaska on the west. It loves a cool climate and plenty of
water. For many years no attempts were made to cultivate it, because the wild

“SUHNNQU DNIYAAPT GNV LIQUA
YHL ONIYTHIVO AUK SAO GNF NAW “NISNOOSIAL NI WYP AUNTTALPYULS VF

A BUSY SCENE IN A MICHIGAN BLACKBERRY FIELD.

FRUIT CULTURE IN AMERICA 42

bogs furnished all that were needed ; but now there are thousands of acres of
cultivated cranberry marshes. It is the business of specialists to own, plant, and
care for them throughout. Dams are built about the marshes or fields, which
may be flooded at will to prevent frosts and kill insects. More than 1,000,000
bushels are marketed every year, and the business is extending. There are
many named varieties, called Bell, Bugle, &c., which were selected from the
wild stock.

Currants have been successfully grown in gardens from the time of the
earliest settlements until the present time. Nearly all the varieties are from
European species, but many of the best are grown from seed in_ this
country. The cooler or more northern part of the country is by far the best
for the currant, for in hot and dry regions its culture has either been abandoned
or is attended with difficulties. Where it is successful there are plantations of
from 10 to 50 acres each. ‘The red varieties, such as Fay, Victoria, Cherry,
Red Dutch, and Wilder are mostly grown, but there are a few of the white
and black varieties cultivated in a small way. Americans do not like the black
currants,

OvHER Berrizes—There are several other berries of minor importance
grown, such as the Juneberry, Huckleberry, Blueberry, &c., but, as yet, their
wild fruits are sufficient to meet the demand.

CITRUS FRUITS

Since the introduction of the orange, lemon, and lime by the Spaniards in
Florida in their search for gold nearly four hundred years ago, and the advent
of the Catholic Fathers in California at a later period up to within the last
forty years, only a few scattered trees bore fruit. About 1860 there was a
little interest shown in their culture in Florida, Louisiana, and California. The
immense production and trade in American-grown citrus fruits have developed
since that time.

THE ORANGE was first grown in extensive orchards on the Mississippi delta
below New Orleans, but the repeated frosts in that region have damaged. the
trees so seriously that the growers are badly discouraged. “The fruit there is of
good quality, but most of the trees are seedlings. After the Civil War, about
1865, many of the soldiers from the northern States settled in Florida, and
began budding the wild groves of orange trees there, which had grown up
and spread from the few trees planted by the Spaniards hundreds of years.
before, with the best varieties to be found. Choice varieties were also
brought from the Mediterranean countries and from Japan, China, and the
East Indies. Extensive orchards were planted and cultivated in the best
possible way. Orange-growing became the chief industry of Florida, for before
the severe frost of 1895, 5,000,000 bushel boxes of fruit were shipped. Many
of the orchards were killed to the ground at that time, but most of them
have grown up since. In Southern Florida the trees were injured slightly or
not at all, Now the production is approaching its former proportions. In

x

92 THE FRUIT GARDEN

California, orange-growing was of little consequence before the introduction, in
1870, of a seedless variety that we now call Bahia, or more commonly, Wash-
ington Navel. This was procured by our national department of Agriculture
from Bahia, Brazil, and proved the most eminent success in California and
Arizona, although in Florida it does not bear abundantly for some climatic
reason. While there are other varieties of the orange of as good flavour, in
some respects, there is none that equals it, all things considered. It is the
principal variety grown in California, which state now annually ships about
7,000,000 boxes, with an increasing production. Very few seedlings are grown
there, and only a small proportion of Maltese Blood, Mediterranean Sweet, and
some other named varieties of the orange that originated in this country. The
native and foreign lists now exceed two hundred varieties, but only a few are
grown extensively. The trees are set from 15 to 40 feet apart, according to
the requirements of the varieties used. The dwarfish Japanese or mandarin
class are sometimes set as close as 10 to 15 feet apart, but most varieties
require from 25 to 30 feet. They are given good cultivation by the most modern
orchard tools. Manuring is quite necessary in many sections of Florida, and
to some extent in California and Arizona.

Tue Lemon is also grown commercially, but mostly in California. About
3,000,000 boxes are now sent to the eastern States from there annually, and
there is a steady increase. “There are orchards in Southern California of more
than 500 acres in extent. The best varieties from Italy and Spain have been
introduced, and several very choice seedlings have originated, one of which,
named Eureka, is seedless and of the first quality otherwise. Our people have
learned when and how to gather and cure lemons, so as to compete with the
foreign product, and it is probable that the importation of lemons will soon
decrease.

THE PomeEto is a member of the Citrus family from Siam, Ceylon, and
other East Indian countries that is being grown quite extensively in Florida and
California. Our people are becoming very fond of it ; although at first it was
not relished because of a slightly bitter flavour. By selecting the best seedlings,
naming them and propagating by budding, marked progress has been made in
the way of varieties. An average specimen will weigh about 1 lb. They
resemble large oranges, except that they are more flattened and of a lemon
colour. The trees are treated about as for orange or lemon trees, and bear
most abundantly. As the fruit sells at a high price it is not uncommon for one
tree to produce a net revenue of from {10 to £20 in a season.

Tue Kumguar is the smallest of the Citrus fruits, not being much larger
than a thimble. The varieties are round or oblong in shape, and the colour of
oranges. They are delicious in flavour, and are usually preserved whole,
although they are good eating in the fresh state.

Tue CrrRon is grown but very little, as yet, in America. A few of the
best varieties from Italy and Corsica have recently been introduced, and a few
tons of the preserved article have been made in California and Florida. We
have proper soil and all other requirements for growing citrons of the best
quality, and it will not be long until an abundance is produced.

FRUIT CULTURE IN AMERICA 323

THE FIG

Figs have been grown in the warmer portions of America in a small way
for centuries, but not until the introduction of the fig wasp (Blastophago psenes)
from Turkey have they been grown in large commercial orchards. Many
varieties have been introduced, and some of them bear abundantly ; but only in
California have they been dried with profit. ‘The famous “Smyrna” brand of
dried figs has been recently duplicated in that state by the importation of cut-
tings from Turkey, where the choice figs are grown that are packed at Smyrna
and excel all others in the markets of the world. The wild or Capri fig trees,
with the little insect that carries the pollen to the flowers inside the edible
variety, have also been safely established in California. There are now a few
orchards of this variety in bearing and others just started, and many tons of
dried figs have already been sent to market that are equal to the best grade of
Smyrnas.

THE OLIVE

Olive culture was attempted in the Carolinas and along the Gulf of Mexico
at an early date, but with almost no success, owing to unfavourable climatic
conditions. In California, the mission fathers found that the olive did well ;
but not until within about the last twenty-five years has its culture been
pushed. Now we have in that State most of the varieties from Europe, and
there are large orchards, oil presses, and pickle factories established there. ‘The
quality of both the oil and pickled olives is equal to the best imported from the
markets of Europe.

THE DATE

In some of the hottest and dryest parts of Arizona and California there are
ideal climatic conditions and suitable soils for the date palm. A few trees grown
from seed at some of the Catholic mission stations more than a century ago
are still standing ; but few of them have borne, owing to the fact that they were
male trees or those of the opposite sex that were alone or too far from those
bearing pollen. However, enough fruit was produced to encourage the im-
portation of rooted suckers of the best varieties from Arabia, Algeria, and
Persia. The first of these choice trees were brought over in 1889 by our
National Department of Agriculture, and have been bearing for several years.
Many more have since been imported by the Government and are growing at
trial stations, and agricultural explorers are still at work collecting them in
foreign countries and sending them here. As there are millions of acres of good
land in Arizona and California, where the summers are long and hot and the
winters mild, and there is abundant water for irrigation, we have every reason
to believe that America can and will produce an abundance of dates of the best
quality. Already some have been cured, and clusters of fresh dates of several
varieties have been sent east to show what can be grown.

324 THE FRUIT GARDEN

THE MANGO

In Southern Florida there are many large mango trees that have sprung up
from seed, but the fruit being mostly inferior our Government and some private
individuals have secured grafted trees of several of the choicest varieties from
India. One variety, the Mulgoba, is already in bearing, and some of the older
trees are quite large. Our fruit of this variety is said by those who have eaten
mangoes in India to be equal in size and flavour to any grown there. “Thousands
of acres can be planted with mangoes if desired below the line of danger from
frost in Florida, and in a few places in California. Orchards are now being
planted with choice varieties,

THE PINEAPPLE

Of all the strictly tropical fruits there is none that is grown so extensively
as the pineapple. Many thousands of acres are devoted to its culture in Southern
Florida, which is the only region where it succeeds within the United States.
Our markets are so well supplied with the home-grown product that but few
pineapples are imported, although a few years ago all that were consumed were
grown in Jamaica and other tropical islands. ‘There are two methods of grow-
ing. One is in the open field, just as cabbages are grown. The other plan is to
plant under lath sheds, which admits of growing the most tender varieties ; fruit
of the largest size and most delicious flavour is then obtained. The variety
generally grown under sheds is the Smooth Cayenne. Abakka and many others
are also grown to some extent. These sheds are about 7 feet high and are
made in a substantial manner. It has been found by experience that shedding
not only makes it possible to grow pineapples where there is a little frost by
covering over with muslin in winter, but the shedding does good in summer by
tempering the fierce rays of the sun. Red Spanish is the variety commonly
grown in the open field. The plants are set about 2 feet apart each way and
kept free from weeds with the hoe. They bear two good crops, and are then
dug up and the ground replanted.

MISCELLANEOUS TENDER FRUITS

There are many tropical and semi-tropical fruits which are grown to some
extent. Among these are the Banana, Avocado Pear, Guava, Tamarind,
Sapodilla, Kaki, Loquat, and Pomegranate. Some of them flourish exceedingly
well and are becoming improved and cultivated, so that they are not only
interesting but quite profitable.

NUTS

Tue Cocoanur in Southern Florida is grown with success from Key West
fully 100 miles northward, but more as an ornamental tree than for profit.
Tue Sweer ALmonp is grown in Californian orchards of 500 acres or

FRUIT CULTURE IN AMERICA BoE

more in extent in some cases, and many car-loads are produced each year. The
quality is equal to that of any imported from Europe. Especially is this true of
some of the varieties originated in California.
Tue Perstan Watnur or Madeira nut is grown in California in large
orchards, and to such an extent that its importation has almost ceased.
Cuerstnur Cutture is also assuming considerable proportions in America.
We have two native species that bear nuts of excellent quality, but they are
rather small. Many thousands of bushels are gathered each year from the
forests and sold at moderate prices. The best varieties from Europe and Japan
have been imported, and many seedlings have been grown from them that are
even better. ‘There are a few chestnut orchards of more than 200 acres, and
many smaller ones have been made by grafting the choice varieties on native
sprouts, where the forests have been cut down. There are also a few small
orchards of grafted nursery-grown chestnut trees that are bearing abundantly.
Tue Pecan (Hicoria pecan) is a native nut that is found abundantly in
the lower Mississippi Valley, where the trees often attain very large size.
Large quantities are gathered and sent to market, especially from Texas. Within
the last twenty-five years this nut has been brought under cultivation. Many
choice native varieties have been selected and propagated by grafting and bud-
ding. Others have been originated from seed, until we now have a very choice
list of named sorts. “The trees are set in orchards, about as for apples, and culti-
vated until they begin to bear, which is usually about ten years old. The pecan
requires very rich moist soil, and does best where the summers are long and hot.
FILBerts are cultivated only to a very limited extent, because a fungus
disease preys on the leaves and wood of the European species in most regions.
In Washington and Oregon this trouble does not exist, and the best varieties
known are planted there and are beginning to bear abundantly. We think that
they will grow there as well as in England or in any other country. Our native
wild hazels are abundant in the Central States and bear well, but the nuts are
small. Some of the largest are now being tested under cultivation.

FRUIT CULTURE UNDER GLASS

Practically no fruits are grown under glass in America except European
grapes in the fruit-houses of a few of our wealthiest people in the Eastern States.
There is very little need to grow them thus, because they are grown out-of-
doors so much more cheaply. A very few peaches, nectarines, pears, and pine-
apples are grown in fruit-houses, but this is done mostly asa hobby. “There
are perhaps two or three persons or firms growing strawberries under glass, but
they have difficulty in meeting the prices of Florida and California, which
furnish the markets with this fruit in winter-time from the open fields.

FUNGUS DISEASES AND INSECTS

The American fruit-grower has a swarm of enemies to fight in the shape
of fungus diseases and insect pests. "There is scarcely a plant or tree that does

326 THE FRUIT GARDEN

not have some enemy of this kind. But science and industry have found means
of overcoming them or holding them in check. The rural papers—of which we
have more than 100 good ones—the agricultural experimental station bulletins
and books on fruit-growing, are replete with directions for combating these
evils. Sulphate of copper is the basis of the remedies for fungus diseases, and
arsenic for nearly all insect pests.

FRUIT STORAGE

While the great range of climate and the numerous varieties of fruits enable
the average farmer or inhabitant of the towns and cities to be abundantly
supplied with fresh fruit of some kind at moderate cost during the greater part
of the year without the aid of cold storage houses, these have helped materially.
They were first built about 1860, and cooled by means of natural ice, but since
the invention of chemical refrigeration cold storage houses have been greatly
improved and cheapened. Apples, pears, and grapes are now kept for many
months in perfect condition. It is a common practice to keep apples in this
way until the next year’s crop is ready for market.

CHAPTER XXIX

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE
By M. ALFRED NOMBLOT

NoTE.—1 métre (1m.)=3 feet 34 inches; 1 decimétre (om.10) = 4 inches; 1 centimétre
(om.1)= of an inch. (These are approximate equivalents.)

Tue cultivation of hardy fruit trees in France may be regarded from three
points of view—firstly, as conducted in experimental gardens, z.e. in gardens
formed for the purpose of study ; secondly, as carried on in private gardens,
or the gardens of amateurs ; and thirdly, as practised in market gardens.

ExpERIMENTAL GarpENs.—The object of these is not only to teach the
proper cultivation of fruit trees, but also to further the study of new varieties ;
to experiment with new methods of cultivation, and in those methods
which are not sufficiently well known. ‘These gardens therefore contain
important and varied collections of fruit trees. Their special interest lies not so
much in actual produce (which is considered a secondary object), as in the field
of instruction and observation laid open to inquirers.

The experimental garden should be situated so as to be easy of access to
students and amateurs; the design be such as to be suitable for demonstra-
tions, and it should be capable of growing all kinds and all varieties of fruit trees
in their most varied forms, and by widely different processes.

Of course all these conditions are not always advantageously combined
in the same spot ; and from lack of capital it is often necessary to utilise land
deficient in size-and quality.

In the neighbourhood of Paris the best gardens of the kind are: L’Ecole
Nationale d’Horticulture de Versailles, l’Ecole de la Ville de Paris at St. Mandé,
’Ecole Normale d’Instituteurs de Versailles, l’Ecole le Nétre at Villepreux
(S. et O.), Ecole des Fréres d’Igny, Ecole Fénelon de Vaujours, Ecole de
Fleury sous Meudon. Many horticultural societies also have their experimental
gardens ; Soissons is one of those which have done the most in this direction.
Indeed most of the big firms of nurserymen have made a point of having in
their grounds not only every variety of fruit tree known under most careful
nomenclature, but also correct models of training. These collections, constantly
added to by novelties as these make their appearance, are carefully catalogued,
and serve as a basis for pomological research. All these gardens, as we have
said, serve to teach the art of fruit culture; they encourage amateurs, and often
give rise to improved methods in fruit-growing for profit.

Amateurs’ Garpens.—The fruit gardens of amateurs are by far the most

common. They are kitchen and fruit gardens combined, the production of
327

328 THE FRUIT GARDEN

vegetables being intimately connected with that of fruit. “These fruit gardens
generally comprise a part only of the whole property, their size being in propor-
tion to the required supply. Sometimes standard trees of cherry, plum, apricot,
medlar, quince, walnut, &c., as well as some of the hardiest varieties of pear and
apple, are grown in an orchard. ‘The aspect varies with the latitude; a
southern aspect suits the north of France ; a northern aspect suits the south.

For the centre and north of France a situation sheltered from the north
wind is preferable. Account must also be taken of the nature of the soil, its
physical state, and its chemical composition.

Tue Desicn is made by straight lines cutting each other at right angles,
forming squares of from 100 to 500 square métres, according to the importance
of the garden ; the walks are from 1 to 3 métres broad, according ‘to whether
they are required for the passage of carts or of barrows only. Borders are
marked off inside the enclosing walls, and around the squares as margins to the
walks; they are from 1 to 2} métres wide, and are planted with lines of espaliers,
cordons, and pyramids. The ground should be levelled, and the enclosure
formed, as far as possible, of stone or brick walls, surmounted by a projecting
coping. Sometimes in cold districts partition walls are built, of which the two
sides are planted—the direction of these walls is from north to south. No
matter what the walls are made of, they are covered with trellis work, either of
iron and wood, or altogether of wood; the supports placed in two or three
rows according to the height of the wall, and parallel to the soil, are made of
iron wire, or crossbars of wood to which rods are fixed. ‘The wood most
commonly used is pine. It ought, if possible, to be painted. ‘The distance
between the uprights is from om.25 for peaches and vines, to om.30 for other
kinds of fruit. For the peach, in order better to secure the shoots, two short
rods are added between each of the vertical uprights. ‘The edgings to walks
are preferably made of box.

Wuar To PLant.—The planting of an amateur’s garden is a matter
requiring the careful selection of good varieties—of the best quality rather than
of large size, and abundant bearers. ‘The distribution of the trees also greatly
influences the results. ‘Thus the vine, the peach, the Doyenné d’Hiver pear,
and the Calville apple, requiring much heat to ripen their fruit, and disliking the
cold, are planted against south or east walls. Autumn and winter pears are
planted against a west wall. Summer pears, and some of the most fertile
varieties of cherries, are reserved for the north wall. Hardy apple and pear
trees, with slender and spreading branches, are all suitable for espaliers. The
hardiest varieties of these, with upright and strong branches, are planted as
pyramids or bushes. Apricots, cherries, and plums, good cropping apples, and
cooking pears, all hardy trees, whose flowers and fruits are but little affected by
hail or wind, should be planted as pyramids or standards, Large fruiting apple
trees make good horizontal cordons. ‘The distance apart at which these trees
are planted varies with the richness of the soil, the vigour of the variety, height
of the wall, aspect, humidity of the soil, &c.

The distance between fan-trained trees should be as many times om.30 as
the number of branches it is desired to obtain, Pyramids are planted 3 m.,

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 329

vases 2m.50, goblets 3 m., horizontal cordons 3m. or 4m., vertical cordons
om.40, and oblique cordons om.§0 apart.

Market Garpens.—These gardens differ from the two mentioned above
in that they do not admit of much detail—they must be simple and practical.
The cultivation is exclusively that of fruit, and is carried on in good land not far
from the great centres of population, in order to provide for the disposal of the
produce and the obtaining of manure. ‘The varieties of fruits, very restricted
in number, are selected from those best suited to the district and whose sale is
certain from their commercial value.

Nothing is neglected in the management of the garden, the preparation of
the soil and the distribution of the trees (which are planted more closely,
if it be possible, than in amateurs’ gardens) are such as to ensure the highest
success,

A commercial fruit garden presents an enclosure well exposed to the sun and
air, with the enclosing walls not very high; sometimes with partition walls,
upon which are cordon apple trees; then squares planted with pyramid and
vase-shaped trees, margined with borders of espaliers; at other times espaliers
entirely occupy the squares, The wall and the espalier trees in spring are
protected from spring frosts by movable shelters made of straw, wood, or
glass. Commercial fruit culture is practised in the neighbourhood of Paris at
Montreuil, Bagnolet, Deuil, Sannois, Montmorency, Argenteuil, &c., and more
or less throughout France ; Williams’s Bon Chrétien pear in Anjou; apples
at Mans and Auvergne, where every variety of Reinette is cultivated and
sent to Paris; apricots at Triel (S. et O.), and grapes at Thomery and at
Maurecourt are specialities. Lyonnais and the south provide early and white-
heart cherries and peaches from the open air; the east and the region of Agen
furnish cherries for the manufacture of “kirsch,” and plums for preserving ;
while the neighbourhood of Paris gives the English cherry, and Montmorency
fresh plums, &c.

In order to perfect the production of fruit for the home and foreign markets
some experiments have been made, notably in the department of L’Oise, at
M. Labitte’s, where a farm has been planted. “The arrangement adopted is as
follows: Lines of standards are planted at 10 métres from each other. Until
these standards cover the space, a row of vase-shaped apple trees is planted
between them, at 5 métres from the standards; then at 2 métres from the apple
trees (forming a line on either side), two rows of pyramid pear trees; and
finally, to the right and left of the standards, at 1 métre distant, groups of
currant bushes. So much for the large open squares; others are planted with
single and double espaliers. Finally, the walls of the enclosure are covered
with vines and peaches.

Tratnep Fruir Trees.—In place of the ancient custom of planting trees
one year old, almost everywhere in France fruit trees already formed or half
formed are now made use of, These trees being well prepared, well trained,
and carefully taken up, take root again as well as maiden trees, bear fruit
much sooner and more abundantly, and the fruit is better. The cost at first
appears greater, though really it is more economical, for stocks treated in

33°

THE FRUIT GARDEN

A Group or ESPALIER TRAINED AND STANDARD FRUIT TREES

The distant half of the trellis is covered with Palmette Verrier, and the near half with Cossonet fan-trained trees,

Those alongside the walk are horizontal cordon apple trees.

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 49%

thousands by specialists in nurseries cost much less than when the trees are
grown by private individuals,

Transplanted trees have more numerous and shorter roots than those which
are not transplanted, and for this reason derive their nourishment from the surface
of the soil. ‘To obtain the best results, trees which have not been transplanted
in the nursery should not be older than: Pears and apples, two, three, or four
years at the most ; peaches, apricots, plums, cherries, &c., two or three years at
the most. Trees which have been transplanted in the nursery: Pears and
apples may be three, four, five, and six years old; peaches, apricots, plums, and
cherries, three, four, and five years; standards not formed, one to three years ;
standards formed and transplanted, from three to six years old.

Frurr Trees 1n Pors.—This method of cultivation is now spreading more
and more among amateurs, and especially in towns where, deprived of gardens,
people appreciate not only flowers in their rooms but also fruit trees, which
are charming when in blossom and valuable for their fruits. An orangery,
courtyard, terrace, or balcony is sufficient for these trees, provided they are
sheltered from the frost in winter and not allowed to become too dry in summer.
An annual repotting in the autumn with good fresh soil and watering during
the summer as often as required are necessary. Once a week liquid manure is
given. Cherries, plums, peaches, and grapes are the chief fruits cultivated in pots ;
but currants, figs, pears, apples, raspberries, apricots, medlars, and even quinces
afford much satisfaction when thus grown. The idea of this most interesting
phase of culture is to obtain as much fruit as possible within a minimum space.

Tue Sor.—To prepare land for a fruit plantation one must know the
needs which the soil will have to supply, its state and nature, and the proper
means of modifying the composition in order to ameliorate it. Let us therefore
examine these questions in connection with the humidity, physical constitution,
chemical composition, and aeration.

Humipviry oF THE Sort: Drarnace.—Moisture in excess is hurtful to the
land, because it prevents aeration and warmth, tends to encourage late frosts, and
retards vegetation in spring. Trees which grow in a wet soil are more sensitive
to frost ; rooting after transplantation is also more difficult.

To overcome excess of humidity drainage is resorted to; either by open
drains, or by trenches filled with stones, or still better by drain-pipes, the
diameters of which vary according to the volume of water to be carried off.
The depth of the trenches or drains varies, 1 mm. inclination per métre is
sufficient for pipe-drains, but from their greater resistance to the flow of water,
other drains require more.

To drain a border at the foot of a wall, the foundation must be so placed
as to carry the water away from the wall, and turn it aside by some means or
other. If the soil does not permit of a slope, recourse is had to wells, into which
the drains empty themselves. If none of these methods is sufficient, the only
thing to do is to plant upon elevations or mounds, so that by increasing the
depth of the soil to be cultivated, the trees may be above the level of the
water. Drainage impoverishes the soil a little by carrying away some soluble
manure in the water. This must be taken into account.

332 THE FRUIT GARDEN

PuysicaL ConsTITUTION OF THE SorL.—According to the proportion of the
four essential elements, namely—clay, chalk, sand, and vegetable-mould, we shall
have a strong and cold, or a light and warm soil, with all the variations between
the two. Clay which holds water permits but little air to penetrate, and renders
the soil wet and cold. Manures decompose slowly in it, and the vegetation which
it supports is slow and backward in growth. Chalk under the form of carbonate
of lime is most frequently blended with carbonate of magnesia and phosphate
of lime; in its pulverised state it acts upon the decomposition of organic
manures, and provides a cértain amount of soluble mineral element. Sand or flint
renders the soil workable, permeable to water and air, and consequently pro-
motes quick growth, but it is not favourable to the retention of manure, which
quickly disappears in it, and must be frequently renewed. Humus or vegetable-
mould is an element of fertility ; it is workable, and permeable to air and water.
It heats, cools, and dries quickly ; also, by absorbing oxygen, it facilitates the
decomposition of manures,

A PerFect Sor contains from 20 to 30 per cent. clay ; 50 to 70 per cent.
sand ; 5 to 10 per cent. chalk (pulverised); 5 to 10 per cent. mould. A soil is
too clayey and cold if it contains more than 40 per cent. of clay, and less
than 50 per cent. of sand; too chalky if it has less than 10 per cent. of
clay, and more than 10 per cent. of lime; too sandy and hot if it contains
less than 10 per cent. of clay, and more than 60 per cent. of sand. With any
given soil, all that one need do, is to analyse it, and compare its composition
with the notes given above, in order to learn what ought to be done to obtain
the best results. If it is too clayey, sand must be added; sweepings from the
road will do, or even a little sea-sand, if lime is not too abundant in thesoil. Ifit
is too light, strong earth, or turf, or clayey marl must be incorporated with it.
Humus in the form of horse manure may also be applied to heavy land, and
in the form of cow manure to sandy land. If the land is too chalky from the
mechanical point of view it is treated in the same way as a sandy soil; but if
it be too chalky from the alimentary point of view, the influence of the lime
must be diminished. If the neutralising effect of sulphate of iron does not
suffice, one-third or even half the soil must be removed, and replaced, in order
to reduce the proportion of lime, by soil containing none of the latter.

CuEmicaL Composirion oF Manures.—We have seen that the physical
properties of a soil are very varied according to the proportion of its constituent
elements, that drainage impoverishes the soil, and that light warm land,
especially if chalky, is much more rapidly exhausted than cold land. From
these facts it follows, that in order to obtain the best results, the quantity of
manure, the manner of using it, and the form in which it is employed ought
not always to be the same. As to the quantity, a warm soil will require more
manure than a cold one; and vice versd. It must be given more often, and
less at a time, to warm than to cold land. For warm land, cold manure from
well-decomposed heaps should be taken; while for cold land, warm manure
in active decomposition is preferable.

The elements of fertility are many, but most are found in the soil. We
will only concern ourselves with the four principal, namely—nitrogen, phosphoric

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 333

acid, potash, and chalk. Farmyard manure contains per cubic metre 80 per
cent. water ; 0.13 per cent. phosphoric acid; 0.49 per cent. potash; 0.55 per
cent. lime ; 0.49 per cent. nitrogen ; 5 per cent. minerals secondary importance ;
13 per cent. woody fibre. Town night-soil contains a little less nitrogen and
potash, and a little more phosphoric acid than farmyard manure.

Though natural manure is indispensable in order to ensure to the soil its
richness in humus, yet it does not suffice, and the many artificial manures are
valuable complements on account of their economy in manipulation ; and
because, taught by the composition of the soil, and the needs of the trees, we
can apply any requisite element to the exclusion of others. With natural
manure, in order, for example, to apply a certain quantity of potash, we should
have to add in a manner as costly as it 1s useless, a great quantity of phosphoric
acid, lime, and nitrogen. In the use of chemical manures, the analysis of the
soil and of the plants is a very valuable, though not absolute indication.
Nitrogen acts chiefly upon leaf growth, and is recommended for trees fertile
yet not very vigorous. Phosphoric acid, on the contrary, allays foliaceous
growth, and ensures fruit production. Potash favours a good growth of
wood.

AERATION OF THE SoIL.—The improvement of land can only take place by
the different substances being mixed well together. This is effected by digging
and trenching. The depth to which the soil must be moved varies. A good
alluvial soil requires but little digging, while a clay soil demands deep tillage ;
trees with tap roots require much deeper tillage than the same trees upon
stocks with spreading surface roots ; for example, the pear upon the quince.

For pears upon the pear stock, the peach upon the almond, digging to the
depth of 1 métre is necessary ; while for pears upon the quince, and for cherries,
a depth of om.80 is sufficient ; finally, peaches upon the plum stock and the
apricot are satisfied with from om.60 to om.70. Whatever method of digging
is employed, it is well to perform it some months before planting.

PLantinc.—Planting is done from the end of October to the beginning of
April, always supposing it is not prevented by frost, heavy rain, or scorching
sun. Planting in dry and light soils is best done early ; in those which are
strong, cold, and wet it is preferably done late. When planting in spring it
is well to soak every plant in order to make the earth adhere to the roots; if
late in the season and warm, it is a good thing to steep the roots in a tub
containing a mixture of liquid clay and cow manure. In preparing trees for
planting cut back any bruised roots and trim broken branches. Cut off
vigorous branches to a third or a quarter of their length in order to obtain a
symmetrical tree. When the tree is planted the swelling caused by the graft
should be just above the soil. In planting wall trees the collar of the tree
should be some little distance from the wall in order to facilitate the develop-
ment of roots on that side. When the soil has been well prepared beforehand
in the manner indicated it is only necessary to make a hole suited to the extent
of the roots, around which these are spread. Planting is done by two men;
one holds the tree while the other places fresh soil round the roots. Afterwards
it is made more or less firm, according to the state of the soil. A wet soil

334 THE FRUIT GARDEN

should not be pressed down at all, or very little; there should be no vacant
spaces about the roots, however.

Care AFrER PrLantinc.—After planting, standard trees are staked in order
to resist the wind. Wall trees and espaliers must not be tied so tightly as to
prevent their settling down with the soil. The stems of standard trees should
be sheltered from the hot sun by a little straw. The soil at the foot of, and
especially near, a fruit wall is covered with farmyard manure. Finally, waterings
are given as often as needful. The soil should be top-dressed; this retards direct
evaporation and checks that of the plants.

PrincipLes OF Pruninc.—The principles of reasonable pruning (which must
not be confounded with the mania some people have for cutting everything)
depend upon the food supply of plants and elaboration of the sap, the rest
consists but of a trick of the hand—a plan to render fruit culture possible where
it otherwise could not be practised. Fruit trees have two sources of food :—
First, their roots, which absorb the soluble elements of the soil dissolved in
water ; and, second, the leaves, which absorb by means of their stomata, and
under the influence of air, light, and heat, the carbonic acid contained in the
atmosphere. ‘There is a constant relation between the absorption by the roots
and the elaboration by the leaves, and it is upon this relation that fruit-bearing
is based. Now, as the aim of all fruit culture is the production of fruit, it is
natural that pruning, one of its factors, should be inspired by it. Leaves are
indispensable to the life of a tree and to the production of fruit. But not
only are the leaves indispensable; they must also be in proportion to the
richness of the elements furnished by the roots. Vigorous trees require a
greater leaf surface than those less vigorous. ‘Trees with tap-roots (for
example, seedling pears) need more leaves than trees of equal vigour with
surface roots, as, forexample, pears grafted on the quince stock. So much
for the principles; but we have said before that there was a tour de main
which is the skill of the practitioner, for in fruit-tree culture more than in any
other, theory must be allied to practice, and vice vers@. "The following opera-
tions, together with the means indicated elsewhere, will enable one to obtain or
to re-establish “ balance.”

DirEcTION OF THE Brancues.—Vertical branches are more favourably
situated than oblique branches, and the latter than horizontal branches; con-
sequently a weak branch is raised in order to strengthen it, and a strong branch
is turned down in order to weaken it. Strong branches are shaded in order to
lessen the action of air, light, and heat ; an enfeeblement is thus obtained. The
leaf surface is diminished by cutting the leaves in half, so as to abate their
functions in the strong branches, and thus favour the weak ones. Fruit is
preferably left upon strong and removed from weak shoots.

WinTER Work consists of cleaning, removing useless shoots, pruning so as
to secure proper form of tree, training, making transverse incisions above a
bud to strengthen it, or a longitudinal incision to increase the size of the shoot,
or, in the case of an unhealthy peach, to make the gum exude.

SUMMER Pruninc.—This has for its object the removal of useless shoots,
thus causing the sap to be more equally distributed as well as admitting light

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 335

and air more regularly, It ought not to be done all at once upon the same
tree ; it should be commenced upon the stronger branches and higher parts.
Old, weak, and languishing trees should first be summer pruned, and afterwards
those that are young and vigorous.

PINCHING consists of stopping in their development the shoots which have
surpassed the length assigned to them, in order to assure a good formation of
buds at their bases. “To pinch a shoot is to weaken it, therefore to secure
balance one must begin with the strongest. How long the shoot ought to be
when stopped depends upon the sort of tree and the variety. Shoots of plum
and apricot trees are left longer than those of apple trees, and Bergamotte,
Crassane, Beurré Diel, &c., pears are left longer than Louise Bonne, Winter

’

y

sgn

FIRST OR MAIDEN GROWTH PyRAMID PEAR TREE, Two YEARS
FROM GRAFT OLD
Doyenné, &c. The leading shoots of the principal branches are pinched late
and but little. The practice of turning the extremity of a shoot back towards
its base instead of pinching it is practised with new or rare varieties in order to
increase the surface production.

Annutar Incision.—This operation is practised especially upon the vine,
below the bunches and before they flower. As a result the berries become
larger and ripen sooner.

THINNING THE FRuirs.— Twenty individual fruits— pears, apples, or
peaches—per square métre of tree are reckoned a good average. The thinning
must be done early—as soon as the flowers have fallen, and again a little later.
It has been remarked that in a bunch of pears the central fruits hold the better,
while the reverse is the case with apples.

336 THE FRUIT GARDEN

Pears and apples are often put in bags in order to avoid the ravages of insects.
The bags are put on in June and July. They are made of paper and pierced
with little holes, so as to allow the air to reach the fruits without giving access
to insects. Grapes are put in bags to preserve them from wasps. These bags
are of hair-gauze, light and oiled, or of wire-gauze.

Frequent syringings in the evening or the morning are very beneficial.

THE WINGED PYRAMID

Fruir GaTHERING.—Raspberries, gooseberries, cherries, plums, apricots, and
other similar fruits are gathered when fully ripe. Peaches and nectarines may
be gathered twenty-four or forty-eight hours before they are wanted for con-
sumption. ‘They should be gathered with great care, and must not be squeezed.
The gathering of summer pears is best done eight days before they are wanted
for eating, and that of autumn pears seven days before. Winter pears are
gathered about the middle of October, according to the season of the year and

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 337

district. If gathered too soon, they shrivel ; too late, they do not keep well.
The gathering of grapes in the neighbourhood of Paris is done at the beginning
of October. Choose good weather for this work.

PRESERVATION OF Frurr.—Choose fine and healthy fruit. As for the place
for storing, it must be wholesome, and have thick walls covered with squares of
cork ; it will thus be less subject to changes of temperature. Humidity is counter-
acted by having limestone, chloride of calcium, or alcohol placed about in flat

COLUMN-SHAPED PEAR TREE, A TYPICAL COLUMN-SHAPED
Two YEARS OLD PEAR TREE
dishes. The temperature should be from 2 to 7 degs. centigrade. Light and air
are factors which assist maturation ; it is well, therefore, to restrict their influence.
Pacx1nc.—Baskets or boxes (according to the distance the fruit is to be sent)
are best. The materials employed should be light, inodorous, and bad conductors
of heat.

PRINCIPAL FORMS FOR OPEN-AIR CULTURE

Of natural-growing (i.e. untrained) trees there are (of those on short stems)
pyramids, spindle, and vase-shaped, and (on tall stems) the standard. Of trained
trees the most important are the various palmate-shaped, U-shaped, vertical and

Y

338 THE FRUIT GARDEN

oblique cordons, double-U shaped and horizontal cordons (all on short stems),
and the palmate on a long stem.

Pyramip.—The ordinary pyramid, which consists of a stem bearing secondary
branches in cycles of five, one above the other, is especially to be recommended
for varieties of pears—with erect branches—for some sorts of apples, cherries, and
plums. In order to obtain it, the scion is cut to an eye on the side opposite the
graft at om.40 from the ground, reserving five “eyes” in order to obtain the
first branches. Every year, to obtain a fresh series of branches, the stem is cut
om.40 higher to a bud on the opposite side of the preceding cut. If growth
is weak, a series of branches is taken only every two years. In this case the stem
is cut back 10 or 11 centimetres above the last cutting, in the intermediate year;
the bottom branches are cut so as to be one-third of the total height of the tree.
The other branches will be proportionately shorter at the top of the spire.

In growing pyramids of two, three, or four stages there is nothing more to
do than to continue the form, while taking care to assure the good growth of
the shoots.

The winged pyramid is obtained in the same way; its branches are after-
wards specially trained. They resist the wind better, but their formation is
more costly.

SPINDLE OR COLUMN SHAPED.—This form, more slender and narrower than
the pyramid, is suitable for small gardens and for the less vigorous varieties of
pear trees. ‘The first cut is made upon the maiden tree
at om.70 or om.80 from the graft, and the others at from
om.10 to om.30 above this, every year, according to the
vigour of the tree. ‘The secondary branches, which are
much less numerous than in the pyramid, are cut at a
length equal toa fifth or sixth of the total height, gradually
diminishing in length towards the top of the tree.

VasE oR GosteT Form.—This is especially useful for
apple trees on the Paradise stock, and also, in a less

des res iaCang eee degree, for those on the Doucin. In order to obtain

TREE it, the scion is cut at from om.30 to om.40 from

the ground, leaving three buds from which one en-

deavours to obtain three branches equally distant from each other and

from the centre, Each of these is cut in the second year to two buds, in

order to obtain six branches, which in the third year, being again cut to two

buds, will give the twelve branches required. Let us add that the Paradise

stock is rarely vigorous enough for one to obtain this regularity; however, a
standard to work by is necessary.

Tue Sranparv.—This form is especially suitable for orchards, although
well-trained standards make pretty avenues in fruit gardens. In order to form
the head, leave only three of the best or best placed branches; these are shortened
the first year to a length of from 10 to 20 centimétres, according to their strength.
On some “stone” fruit trees a greater length of shoot should be left—for instance,
the cherry, which requires as much as om.30. Apricot shoots, on the con-
trary, are left shorter, Each branch should be cut back close to its base,

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 339

then very vigorous |growths result, which are left longer in succeeding years in
order to form the frame. It is almost the same with plums and peaches, which
usually grow strongly the second year. We would observe that trees with high
stems are only pruned during the first five or six years, when one endeavours
to make them of good and well-balanced shape, generally that of a vase or funnel,
for these forms admit plenty of air to the middle of the tree, a condition essential

STANDARD VASE-SHAPED PLUM TREE

to fruitfulness. The apricot, however, is an exception, for it requires to be con-
stantly cut back on account of its tendency to cease producing at the base of
its branches and to bear all its fruit at the extremities.

Various PatmaTes.—The palmate is the type par excellence of the trained
forms. It consists of an axis with oblique, horizontal, or vertical branches on
either side. All these variations are obtained in the same way by cutting the
maiden to three buds at om.30 or om.35 from the ground, for all kinds except

340 THE FRUIT GARDEN

the peach, which should be cut at from om.40 to om.50. Of these three
buds the terminal one should be on the same side as the graft swelling, and the
other two should be on the right and left.

The stem should then be successively cut, for the peach at om.s, and for

FAN-TRAINED (PALMATE) PEAR TREE SHOWING
FIRST SERIES OF BRANCHES

other kinds at om.30 above the last series produced similarly. Except where
the established branches are thought not to be sufficiently strong, a series is
taken each year,

In order to form palmates with a double stem, a beginning is made by

Sy Ee

SA ae wee ~~

eater hard

FAN-TRAINED (PALMATE) PEAR TREE WITHjTWo SERIES
OF BRANCHES

obtaining a U at om.20 from the ground, and then proceeding as with a single
stem—the first branches beginning at om.10 or om.30 from the ground.
The union of the palmate with oblique branches and that with horizontal
branches constitutes the popular Cossonet form.

Finally, nothing is more easy than to transform a palmate with oblique

if

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 341

branches into a palmate with horizontal or even vertical branches, by operating
upon the long and flexible shoots during warm weather, when they are full

3
|

ro
a

pee

pend
sates ed

FAN-TRAINED PEAR TREE WITH THREE SERIES
OF BRANCHES

of sap. The best palmate is still the Verrier, either among the forms with an
even or uneven number of branches.
The Candelabrum and the square forms are fast disappearing.

;
L
i pe

ke g~
ZA g a ;

‘“COSSONET"’ FORM OF FAN-TRAINING

U anp UU (Dousrz U) Forms.—The U-shape suits trees which are not
very vigorous, are in poor land, or those for high walls. It is obtained by
cutting the maiden to two buds at om.3o (for the peach at om.40 to om’s50)

342 THE FRUIT GARDEN

THE ‘‘ PALMETTE VERRIER” “THE PALMETTE VERRIER” THE ‘‘PALMETTE VERRIER”

PEAR TREE WITH THREE WITH FOUR BRANCHES WITH FIVE BRANCHES
BRANCHES

b|
a
(yh y | |
j
{ | y \) \ \
q yy a?
4 Le i K
i < ; “ iq
Le : V
‘ yy WS
Fd Oy nt JH
! oe aa ad 4 -
: bbs { a % { 4 & y
THE '‘ PALMETTE-VERRIER” WITH THE DousLe-STEMMED ‘‘ PALMETTE-VERRIER"” PEAR TREE

S1x BRANCHES WITH EIGHT BRANCHES

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 343

from the ground, Each of the shoots is trained horizontally, and then raised
upwards at a distance of om.10 (the peach at a distance of om.20) from the
axis, in order to form the two arms of the U. There is nothing else to do
except to train the branches successively, and to secure a good growth both
right and left. For the double U, which is the symmetrical form par excellence,
cut the maiden to two buds at om.20 (the peach at om.30) from the ground,
Train the two shoots horizontally, and raise them om.30 (the peach at om. 50)
from the axis; then cut them back to two buds om.10 or om.12 above the
horizontal branch (the peach at om.18 or om.20), in order to obtain shoots

U-SHAPED PEAR U U (DouBLE U) Form
TREE OF TRAINING

for the frame, that is, the two branches of the U. The U and the double U
forms fruit freely.

Tue Verticat Corpon.—This is only used for covering very high walls
or pillars. It is also used for varieties which are not very vigorous, especially
in small gardens where there is but little space. Cut back the stem each year
according to its vigour. The distance apart for planting is om.40.

OsiguE Corpons.—These are particularly suited to small gardens, for
the reason that they are easily formed and permit of a great number of varieties
being grown in a given space. The oblique cordon is also’ useful for sloping
land, for poor soils, and for non-vigorous growing varieties. Finally, if a tree
should perish, it does not leave a large gap, and can easily be replaced even by
training in the branch of its neighbour.

Oblique cordons, with the exception of those at either end of the wall or
fence, have one stem only. There are no branches other than the short fruit
spurs. All incline in the same direction on the wall, at an angle of about 60
degs., from the horizontal, towards the south if they are planted on walls
facing east or west, and towards the east if on a south wall. On sloping
ground this rule is disregarded, and the trees are trained in the direction of the

344 THE FRUIT GARDEN

ascending incline. The angle can be still further reduced, which will allow a
greater length of stem if the walls are not so high. It is easy to understand that

PeaAR TREES AS OBLIQUE CoRDONS, SEMI-FAN-TRAINED AT EACH END

the more pronounced the incline the farther apart the trees ought to be, for an
increased incline of the stems reduces the distance between them. For trees
with stems at an angle of 60 degs., the distances between them should be—for

YEAR M ssrenenanig EMMY EN a tegen
= EELS saree

vy
Pal

AT THE EDGES OF BORDERS

peaches, 1m.; plums and cherries, om.80; and for pears upon the Quince
stock, and apples upon the Doucin stock, and apricots, om.60.

V-SHAPED APPLE TREE

By planting several trees of this form together, so that the
branches cross, the network training is obtained.

HorizonraLt Corpons.—The apple on either Paradise or Doucin stocks,
as well as some varieties of pear upon the Quince, do very well as horizontal

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE Ak

cordons at om.40 from the ground, and planted at the edge of a border. For
this form an iron wire fixed to two posts, strengthened by supports as shown
in the accompanying figure, is sufficient. Apples on the Paradise stock are

STANDARD FAN-TRAINED PEAR TREE WITH THREE
SERIES OF BRANCHES

planted from 3 to 4 métres apart ; apples on the Doucin and pears on the
Quince at from 4 to 5 metres apart. Each tree has only two branches, opposite
to each other. ‘These are trained along the iron wire. By allowing one
branch only to grow, and training it to the wire, a single horizontal cordon is
obtained.

346 THE FRUIT GARDEN

Cordon trees are easily managed. The chief thing to do is to have a good
length of stem, and during growth, to pinch the shoots slightly and repeatedly.
Generally speaking, trees thus treated take up but little room, bear more
quickly than others, and give better coloured fruits. Al] varieties of apples do
well as horizontal cordons, but of pears only those varieties which bear fruit freely
and are not vigorous must be chosen. Horizontal cordons of pears, and apples,
with one or with two branches, at om.80 from the ground, are also used to
cover low walls, or to make a double row with those at om.40 from the ground
in rather large borders.

V-SHaPeD TREEs.—By training an apple or a pear tree so as to form the
letter V, a practicable form and one favourable to fruitfulness is obtained.
Young trees are planted at distances varying according to the height of the
trellis and the vigour of the variety. With a fence or trellis 1m.20 high, and
the trees om.80 apart, each arm is 2 metres long, and forms an angle of
35 degs. with the ground. With a high trellis it would be well to plant the
trees closer ; with a lower trellis, good soil, and a vigorous variety, they should
be planted farther apart still.

Tue TRrainep SranDarD.—This form, which is obtained like any other
fan-trained tree, as soon as the stem is of the desired height, is used for covering
the upper parts of very high walls or houses while leaving the lower part free
—for example, between two windows. The stem, without being in the way,
easily finds room, and spreads its branches above. This is a lucrative way of
covering one’s house.

FRUIT TREES AND THEIR CULTURE

THE APRICOT

The apricot, on account of its early flowering, should be planted where
spring frosts are not to be feared. It requires a situation sheltered as much as
possible from the north wind.

Light and warm soils suit the apricot better than those which are heavy
and damp.

Propacation.—In the south of France the apricot is grafted upon the
almond, or seedling apricot, but in the neighbourhood of Paris and the west of
France it is better grafted upon the St. Julien plum or the damson. It may be
grown either as a standard or palmate, but from trees of the latter form the
fruit is not so good. In order to obtain a stem recourse is had to an intermediate
stock. This varies with the locality : in Anjou the St. Julien, or Gvr. d’André
Leroy, is used; in Paris the St. Julien, Krazenski, &c.

In all cases the intermediate stock is first grafted upon the St. Julien.
The fruit of the apricot is of considerable market value, and_ therefore,
as we have said, much grown. Around Paris, at Triel, Dijon, Lyons,
Clermont Terraud, Avignon, Bordeaux, &c., bush or half-standard trees are
grown.

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 347

Pruninc.—The apricot bears its fruit upon the shoots of one year’s growth,

Xe s fl
\ \ SA J
oe a xs “a
S) ae cae
SS SS.
NX \ : Set Le
St LA
~Q | ‘ae
a
a
Mt
aa ee ee

FAN-TRAINED APRICOT WITH FOUR SERIES OF BRANCHES

or upon spurs; this will suggest the pruning required. The growing shoots

are stopped at the third, fourth, fifth, or sixth leaf according to the vigour
of the tree. Apricots are eaten fresh, dried, or preserved.

348 THE FRUIT GARDEN

VariEtiEs.— Lhe following varieties are those most generally grown :—

DEFARGES.—Fruzt rather large ; July, August.

Gros CoMMUN (Large Ordinary).—77vee very vigorous and fertile, spreading ; fruzt
oval, whitish yellow, and speckled golden brown on the sunny side, excellent for pre-
serving ; end of July.

JacquEs.—7Zyee rather vigorous, very fertile ; Zeaves small ; /ruzz? medium-sized,
flat-ovoid, pale yellow, shaded grey ; middle of August.

LIABAUD.—7vee vigorous, not very fertile; deaves large; /ruzt globular, straw-
coloured and orange carmine on the sunny side; July.

LUIZET.— 77ee vigorous, fertile ; /rwz¢ large and sweet ; end of July.

PECHE (Péche de Nancy).—7Zvee vigorous, very fertile ; Zeaves large ; fruz¢ large,
oval, yellow carmine where exposed to the sun; end of August.

PRECOCE DE BOULBON (De Boulbon).—7Jvee vigorous, very fertile; /eaves large;
fruit large, oval, yellow carmine on the sunny side; beginning of July.

PRECOCE DE MONPLAISIR.—7vee very vigorous, not fertile; fruz? rather large,
orange yellow, purpled where exposed to the sun ; beginning of July.

PRECOCE D'ESPEREN (Esperen).—Zyee very vigorous, not very fertile, spreading ;
leaves very large ; fruit rather large, oval, straw yellow, intensified on the sunny side ;

uly.
; Rowan (Royal de Wurtemberg).—77ee vigorous, very fertile; /eaves medium-sized ;
Jrutt large, globular, flattened, yellowish white and orange yellow, purple on the sunny
side; end of July, August.

SUCRE DE HoLuB.—/77vee moderately vigorous, fertile ; Zeaves rather large, rounded ;
Jruit large, rounded-ovoid, orange yellow and red, marked with purple on the sunny
side ; August.

The most useful varieties for commercial purposes are :—Gros Commun,

Liabaud, Précoce de Boulbon, Péche, Royal.

THE ALMOND

The almond requires rather a high temperature to ripen its fruit; its very
early blossoming also renders it liable to injury from the spring frosts. It does
best in the south and west of France. Around Paris green almonds can be
obtained by planting in sheltered situations. Dry and deep land is most
favourable to its fertility.

PropacaTion.—In the south of France it is grafted upon the almond, but
in the vicinity of Paris the St. Julien plum suits it much better. It is best
grown asa standard. It needs but little pruning, and that more for the sake of
symmetry.

VarieTies.—The best varieties for amateurs are Soft Shelled and
La Princesse ; they are ripe in July. For market culture these two varieties
are grown, as well as Ronde Fine. The gathering of almonds takes place in
August and September. They are used in cookery, &c.

THE CHERRY

The cherry likes an open situation with a mellow soil; it greatly dreads an
excess of moisture. It is found wild more or less throughout France, but less
frequently near the sea. It is grown in gardens in pyramid, vase, and palmate

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 349

forms, and especially as a standard. For commercial cultivation it is planted in
open fields, bushes at 5 métres, or standards at 8 métres apart; sometimes when
other plants are grown between the trees, these are at a still greater distance
apart.

PropacaTion.—By grafting upon the wild cherry; the Ste. Lucie cherry
is reserved for half-standard or other short-stemmed forms, and sometimes in dry
and hot soils for standards. The cherry is largely grown in Var, the delta of

ONE-YEAR-OLD SHOOT oF Two-YEAR-OLD CHERRY SHOOT
CHERRY THAT WILL BEAR FRUIT

the Rhone, Lyonnais, and the environs of Paris. In the east of France it is
much cultivated for the manufacture of “ Kirsch.”

Pruninc.—The cherry tree bears its fruit upon spurs and shoots of one
year’s growth. Little pruning, stopping, or disbudding is necessary, only
sufficient to balance the tree.

There are five distinct sorts of cherries :—

BIGARREAU.—Flesh crisp, sweet; 7uzce almost colourless; dvanches vigorous, long
and few, often divergent; flowers large, half-opened.

CHERRIES (properly so-called).— Flesh tender, sugary; juéce almost colourless ;
branches many, medium size, erect, or divergent; flowers medium size, very open.

GUIGNE.—Flesh soft, sweet; juice often coloured; dvanches the same as in the
Bigarreau ; flowers large, half opened. ; ;

GRIOTTE.—Fiesh tender; juice clear, acid, sometimes astringent and slightly
bitter ; dxanches rather slender, numerous, and divergent.

CHERRIES FOR KirscH.—Special varieties for distillation.

86 THE FRUIT GARDEN

THE BEST CHERRIES
BIGARREAU

D’ESPEREN.— Moderately fertile; fruzt isolated, very large, yellowish and red on the
sunny side; flesh pink white; mid-June.

Gros C&uRET (Coeur de Pigeon).—Moderately fertile ; /ruz¢ in pairs, very large,
rosy yellow; flesh yellow; mid-June.

JABOULAY.—Moderately fertile; /ruz¢ in threes, large, purple red: jZesh brownish
red; end of May.

JAUNE DE BUTTNER (Buttner’s Yellow).—Fertile; /rwz¢ in threes, medium size;
Jiesh yellowish ; end of June.

NAPOLEON.—Very fertile; /ruzt in pairs, very large, pinkish red; flesh whitish;
mid-June.

PELISSIER.—Very fertile ; /ruct very large, deep red; flesh blood red; end of May
and early June.

REVERCHON.—Moderately fertile; /rvzz¢ in pairs, rather large, bright red; flesh
pinkish white; mid-June.

Cuerrigs (TRUE)

ANGLAISE HATIVE (Early Royal, May Duke).—Very fertile ;_/ruz¢ in bunches, large,
deep red ; flesh garnet red ; beginning of June.

BELLE DE MAGNIFIQUE (Belle de Chatenay, Belle de Sceaux).—Moderately fertile ;
Srutt in pairs, garnet red ; flesh red, rather tart; end of July.

BELLE DE Cuolsy (Belle Audigeoise, Ambrée).—Moderately fertile ; /rzz¢ in pairs,
large, amber-coloured ; flesh yellowish; end of June.

Hotman’s DUKE (Archduke, Late English).—Very fertile; /ruz¢t in pairs, large,
brownish red ; fesh pinkish white; mid-July

IMPERATRICE EUGENIE.—Fertile ; fruit large, round, deep crimson ; flesh yellowish ;
beginning of July.

MONTMORENCY, Short-stalked (Gros Gobet).—Not very fertile; /-uz¢ in pairs, large
with developed furrow, very short stalk, brown red ; flesh transparent; end of June, July.

MONTMORENCY, Long-stalked (Amarelle-Royale).— Moderately fertile ; frwz¢ single,
globular, bright red; jZesh whitish yellow, rather acid ; end of June, July.

MONTMORENCY DE BOURGUEIL.—Not very fertile ; frzd¢ in pairs, large, globular,
bright red ; flesh whitish yellow; end of June.

MONTMORENCY DE SAUVIGNY.—-Very fertile ; frwzt single or in pairs, rather large,
red; flesh orange rose; end of July.

MORELLO DE CHARMEUX.—This is a late Belle de Magnifique; ripe August-
September.

REINE HORTENSE.—Not very fertile ; /ruz¢ single, very large, oval, clear red ; flesh
yellowish ; beginning of July.

ROYALE (Royale de Hollande, Duke Cherry).—Moderately fertile; /rwz¢ in pairs,
large brown red ; /éesh pink ; beginning of July.

GUIGNE

A Gros FRUIT-NoIR (Early Black).—Moderately fertile ; /7w7¢ in threes, cloudy red ;
flesh garnet-coloured ; beginning of June.

BEAUTE DE L’OHIO (Ohio Beauty).—Moderately fertile ; /rud¢ in pairs, globular,
reddish yellow ; flesh yellowish; mid-June.

BELLE D’ORLEANS.—Very fertile ; /rwz¢ in pairs, large, rosy white; /fesh pink ; end
of May, beginning of June.

DE Mat (d’Annonay).—Very fertile ;_/ruzt in pairs, brown red ; flesh garnet red ; end
of May.

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE Cie!

j ee ; fruit in bunches, large, yellowish, marbled with pink ; flesh whitish ;
uly.
PRECOCE RIVERS (Early Rivers).—Fertile ; /ruz¢ large, red ; flesh pink ; end of May.

RAMON OLIva.—Very fertile ; frwzt large or very large, black red, sweet, perfumed,
very good; end of May, beginning of June.

GRIOTTE

Du Norpb.—Very fertile ;_/rwzt in bunches, oval, black red ; flesh garnet red ; August-
September.

Kirscu CHERRIES

NOIRE DES VOSGES (Béchat).—Very fertile; /rwt rather large, rounded, heart-
shaped, deep black ; flesh black, good quality; end of June, July.

ROUGE DES VOSGES (Vinette).—Extremely fertile; frwz¢ in pairs, generally rather
large, long, heart-shaped, deep crimson red ; flesh white, good quality ; mid-July.

Tue Besr ComMMERCIAL VARIETIES

Guigne de Mat, Bigarreau Jaboulay, Bigarreau dEsperen, English Cherry, Im-
pératrice, Belle de Magnifique, Griotte du Nord, Bigarreau Reverchon, Bigarreau
Napoléon, Early Black Guigne, Montmorency (long-stalked), Montmorency (short-
stalked), Notre des Vosges, Rouge des Vosges (for Kirsch).

THE CHESTNUT

The chestnut flourishes in the mountainous regions of Brittany, La Vendée,
Périgord, Berry, Morvan, and especially Auvergne, Limousin, and Dauphiné,
in sandy, granitic, ferruginous, or other soils, provided they are light. The best
aspect is facing east, sheltered from the north winds. Sharp frosts, as in 1880,
do much harm to the chestnut; spring frosts also sometimes damage the
flowers.

PropaGaTion.—The chestnut is grafted upon the wild chestnut. It is
grown as a standard and pruned but little. The fruit is borne upon wood of
one year’s growth when the tree is eight or ten years old.

Varieties.— The best varieties are Marron de Lyon, Marron de Luc, and
Marron de Lusignan. For commercial purposes each district grows its own
sorts, which differ very little from each other.

The chestnut is eaten when cooked in water or roasted ; it is also used in
confectionery, &c.

THE QUINCE

The quince grows well throughout France, except in dry situations or
near the sea; it is quite hardy. It will flourish in almost any soil that is not
water-logged and does not contain an excess of lime. The quince is cultivated
by the amateur for home use. From the commercial point of view its fruit
is grown for preserves, liqueurs, &c. It is grafted upon the Fontenay
quince. The varieties most commonly grown are the Angers and the
Portugal.

54% THE FRUIT GARDEN

THE FIG

The fig is grown in the west and south of France in the open air. In the
neighbourhood of Paris it needs a wall or a sheltered situation and a warm soil,
as at Argenteuil. Here it also must
have protection in winter by covering
with straw. Warm and light land
best suits the fig. ‘The amateur who
may have but little room should place
it in the warmest corner of the garden.
When grown for commercial purposes
the plants are placed 4 métres apart in
the row, with 3 métres between the
rows. ‘Ihe fig is propagated by layers ;
the shoots will root the same year as

Part oF FiG BRANCH (PINCHED), SHOWI lay ered, é : ‘
FRUIT AND SUCCESSIONAL SHOOT Pruninc.— This consists, firstly, In
removing all the wood buds upon shoots
of the previous year, except one or two at the base; secondly, in removing the
wood which has borne fruit immediately after the spring gathering.

VarigEtiEs.—The best are:—The White Fig, the Violet Fig, La Barbillonne,
La Dauphine, La Rouge de Bordeaux. Each
district has its own commercial varieties.
Figs are used fresh, for preserving or for
confectionery. ‘They are largely grown in
Bordeaux, Provence, the Western littoral,
Brittany, and Argenteuil.

NG

THE RASPBERRY

Raspberries are not fastidious as to situa-
tion or soil. In order to have an abundance
of good fruits it is well to avoid very hot and
also shaded situations, as well as excessively
dry soils. Propagation is effected by means
of one-year-old suckers. These are taken
every year from clumps in full bearing.
Each clump should have no more than six
stems in order to produce the finest fruits
and a continuous crop.

Pruninc.—The second crop of fruits in
August and September is borne upon the
shoots of the same year, and for the spring
crop upon the wood of the preceding year. Every year, therefore, in winter the
wood which has produced fruit in spring, and which is dead, must be removed.
The best growths of the year must be selected, and upon these will be pro-

FRUITING SHOOT OF RASPBERRY

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 353

duced fruit the next spring. The commercial cultivation of the raspberry is
carried on extensively in the neighbourhood of Paris at Bagnolet, Montreuil,
Fontenay, Bourg-la-Reine, Sceaux, Verri¢res, &c.; in Burgundy at Dijon ; and
in Lorraine at Lunéville, &c. The first crop is ripe in June, and the second in
September and October. Remove the first flowers in order to procure a better
crop later on. Raspberries are eaten raw, or used in confectionery, ices, liqueurs,
&c. The varieties most commonly grown are :—Fastolf, Horner, Pilate, with
_ ted fruits; Orange de Binkle, with yellow fruit. Autumn-fruiting varieties—

Merveille des Quatre Saisons, Belle de Fontenay, with red fruit ; Sucrée de Metz,
Surprise @’ Automne, with yellow fruit.

THE CURRANT

Currants prefer a situation partly shaded to one exposed to the full sun.
Light rather than stiff soils are best for them. ‘The currant is often grown in
the worst position in the garden. This certainly lessens
its value, for the fact must not be lost sight of that
although certain fruits require less than others, there
is a minimum of requirement which must not be passed.
Currants may be cultivated in beds and borders, the
bushes being 1 métre distant from each other, or trained
fan-shaped.

PropaGATION.—Currants are increased by taking
cuttings in winter, or by layers in spring. For com-
merce the currant is cultivated in bush form, but the
amateur can, as we have said above, train it fan-shaped
on iron-wire trellises, or have it upon short stems, or
again on a higher stem (1 metre) by grafting upon
Ribes aureum, Palmate-trained plants give the finest
fruit, but it is perhaps hardly worth while to train them
thus. Standards and half-standards are very decorative.
The fruit is good, easy to gather, and never soiled by
the splashing of rain. The life of such plants, however,
is short, while grown as bushes one may have currants
in full bearing for forty years, provided they are well = =
manured every three years. ScinBARD CORRANG

Pruninc.—Currants bear fruit on branches one
year old or on spurs of the same age, which are formed every year on shoots
of the preceding year. It is necessary, therefore, to secure shoots of one year’s
growth in order to maintain the vigour of the tree and the quality of the fruit.
The fruits of the currant are eaten fresh, or may be iced, preserved, &c. The
best varieties are:—La Versaillaise, Hétive de Bertin, Fay’s New Prolific, with
red fruit; Hollande, La Versaillaise Blanche, with white fruit. Currants are
grown in quantities at St. Denis, Sannois, Epinay, Montmorency, Verricres,
Chatenay, Sceaux, Fontenay, Bagnolet, Lille, Nancy, and more or less in all
parts.

Z

354 THE FRUIT GARDEN

Tue Brack Currant.—The common black currant and the variety Noir
de Naples are cultivated for the liqueur, notably in the neighbourhood of Dijon.
B Beaune, Chagny, Pantin, Sceaux, Mantes, Vernon,

‘ Langres, &c.

Tue GoosEBERRY.— The gooseberry is not much
cultivated in France except in the neighbourhood of
Dunkirk. The most common varieties are :—
Maraby King, Whitesmith, Golden Drop, Early Grosse
Rouge, Late Grosse Rouge, Smiling Beauty, Ocean,
Winham’s Industry. Gooseberries are eaten raw,
and in numerous preparations and preserves.

THE MEDLAR

The medlar may be planted in almost any land
and any situation. With a few exceptions the
medlar is grown more by amateurs than for market.
The forms best suited to it are the standard and the
bush ; it requires little or no pruning. The fruit
= is borne at the ends of young shoots which spring

STANDARD _GOOSEBERRY from branches of one year’s growth. The medlar

eee is increased by grafting upon the thorn. The

fruit is eaten when almost rotten, The two varieties most usually met with are
the Common, and that called the Large Dutch Medlar.

THE HAZEL NUT

The hazel nut will grow in almost any position, even under large trees, and
any soil. It is nevertheless well to point
out that hot situations render the fruit
unsound, and that an excess of moisture or
of shade lessens its fertility. The fruit is
borne on young shoots which spring from
wood of one year’s growth. Cultivated
both for ornament and production in the
garden of the amateur, it is also grown,
chiefly for market, in Provence, Auvergne,
Brittany, Anjou, and the Pyrenees. The
hazel nut is increased by layers. The
best varieties are :—Aveline (red, round),
Aveline (white, long), De Trebizonde, Mer-
veille de Bollwiller.

THE WALNUT PaRT OF BRANCH OF HazEL NuT WITH

FRUIT AND CATKINS

‘The walnut dreads severe winter frosts,
and the sudden chills of spring often injure its flowers; it is therefore prudent
to avoid wet land, for there the frost is usually most severe. A rather light

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 355

soil and a sheltered situation suit the walnut best. The walnut, with rare
exceptions, begins to bear fruit at eight or ten years of age. It is grown asa
standard in orchards, and is increased by sowing seed or by root grafting.
Walnuts for the market come chiefly from Dordogne, Isére, Corréze, Puy de
Déme, Haute Sadne, Anjou, Cher, Savoy, &c. The nuts are eaten fresh or dry.
Oil and liqueurs are also made from them. The best are the Common Walnut,
Soft-shelled Walnut, De la St. Jean Walnut, Bijou.

THE PEACH

The peach, in order to live long and to bear regular crops of good fruit,
requires heat. In the south and west, and in certain favoured districts in the
centre of France, it is cultivated in the open air, but in the neighbourhood of
Paris, with very rare exceptions, and especially in the east and north, it must

SHORT CHARACTERISTIC
GROWTH, BEARING
BLossom Bubs

SHOOT OF PEACH, SHOW- PEACH SHOOT WIT
1nG Woop BuDs AND BLossom Bups
BLOssoM BuDS 7

be grown upon an east or south wall, and, moreover, must be protected from
frost when in flower by canvas or by other means. Wet and unaérated soils
. . . . bed
are harmful to the peach ; in such it is very liable to “gum. ;
PRopaGaTion.—The peach is increased by budding upon the seedling peach
in the south of France, and upon either the almond or St. Julien plum in the
centre, west, and north, according to the soil. The Almond stock gives more
vigour and suits the deeper and warmer soils ; the plum, on the contrary, suits
damp and shallow soils.

356 THE FRUIT GARDEN

Forms oF Trees.—For open-air culture the peach is grown as a bush or upon
short stems. Upon walls the peach can be grown in trained forms—U or
double U, oblique cordons, with three, four, five, or six branches. It is right,
however, to remark that this work is long and costly and is only suitable for

PEACH SHOOT WITH METHOD OF PRUN- PRUNING THE PEACH

Woop BuDs ONLY ING THE PEACH TREE SO AS TO OBTAIN
PRACTISED WHEN A FRUITING SHOOT
THE SUCCESSIONAL (SUBSEQUENTLY CuT
SHOOT HAS BOTH Away) AND A Suc-
Woop BuDs AND CESSIONAL SHOOT

BLossom BuDs

the garden of the amateur. For market culture and in cold districts it is often
better to restrict the trees to the fan-shape. If any branches perish their places
can easily be filled.

Pruninc.—The peach bears fruit upon branches of one year’s growth, so
that each year fresh shoots must be trained in and old wood removed to
make room and to prevent overcrowding. Fruiting shoots are distinguished as
follows: Those of average size bearing both wood-buds and fruit-buds, weak
shoots with flower-buds and a wood-bud at the extremity only, and short
growths with several flower-buds and one wood-bud. As to the pruning, let
us first examine the pruning of a two-year-old branch. ‘The object is to get
fruit and to introduce a new shoot for the following year. ‘The strongest
shoots and also those with all wood-buds (unless they are weak) are cut back;

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 357

the short and weak shoots with flower-buds and a terminal leaf-bud are left
alone. To leave a branch unpruned is to strengthen it, to cut it short is to
weaken it ; and this is the reason why, even against all theories, we cut back
vigorous shoots closely. Where there are strong shoots which do not fruit,
there are often also weak ones that give but little fruit, and from which it is
always difficult to obtain good successional shoots. By cutting back strong
growths we divert the flow of sap from them to the weaker ones, and so make
these strong. In a word, it is necessary always to treat each part of the tree
according to its needs and in relation to the needs of other parts, so as to

A SHOOT OF THE PEACH, STOPPED OR PINCHED TO ASSIST THE DEVELOPMENT
OF THE FRUITS AND THE PRODUCTION OF SUCCESSIONAL GROWTHS

preserve the balance throughout. Wood that has borne fruit should be re-
moved, and the shoot for next year’s fruiting trained in to take its place ; this
in its turn will also produce a shoot to bear fruit the succeeding year. When
shortening a shoot always cut to a wood-bud, not to a fruit-bud (the former are
more elongated than the latter), and to a wood-bud that is on the upper side
of the shoot. The shoots are pruned in spring.

Disbudding is practised in order to leave growths to form as many new
shoots as are required. One or two above the fruits must be left, otherwise
these will not develop properly. Lateral shoots are stopped at three or four

358 THE FRUIT GARDEN

leaves. The ends of the leading shoots should be slightly pinched in order to
regulate them. When a leading shoot happens to be too vigorous, one of the
laterals from its base may with advantage be trained to replace it.

Peaches are grown in great quantities and early in the season throughout the

PRUNING TERMINAL SHOOTS OF PEACH, THE
LOWER ONE, WHICH HAS FRUITED, IS CUT
AWAY, AND THE UPPER ONE (THAT WILL FRUIT
THE FOLLOWING SEASON) IS SHORTENED

southern part of France. The peaches of Burgundy and Lyonnais are equally
appreciated in the market. ‘The country round Paris furnishes espalier-grown
peaches, Péche de Montreuil. This is grown especially at Montreuil, Rosny-sous-
Bois, Bagnolet, Fontenay-sur-Bois, Sannois, &c.

Tue Besr VARIETIES

ADMIRABLE JAUNE (Large Yellow Peach or Apricot Peach).—Very fertile ; fruz¢
rather large, globular, greenish yellow, carmined on sunny side ; flesh bright yellow ;
September, October.

ALEXIS LepERE.—Fertile ; fruc¢ large, rounded, furrowed, greenish yellow, and
carmine red where exposed to the sun ; fesh yellowish pink ; mid-September.

AMSDEN (June Peach).—Fertile ; /ruz¢t moderately large, rounded, furrowed, whitish
and deep purple, spotted on the sunny side; flesh pink ; mid-July.

BALTET.—Fertile ; fruzt large, rounded-oval, marked with regular furrows, cream
white, red in the sun; flesh white, bright red at the core; September and October.

BELLE BaussE.—Fertile ; /ruzt large, globular, yellowish white, carmined in the sun ,
Hesh yellowish white, red at the core, non-adherent; mid-September. y

BELLE IMPERIALE.—Fertile as an espalier; /w7¢ large, spherical, slightly furrowed,

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 359

yellowish, crimsoned in the sun; /fesh yellowish white, carmined at the core; mid-
September.

BLONDEAU.—Fertile ; /rud¢ rather large, rounded, depressed, slightly furrowed,
almost entirely red and purple, violet-coloured on the sunny side ;
fiesh red at the core ; end of September. )

BONOUVRIER.—Very fertile ; /ruz¢ large, spherical, yellowish
and purple in the sun; flesh greenish white; end of September.

CUMBERLAND.—Very fertile as an espalier; /ruz¢ medium
size, spherical, whitish and bright red in the sun ; flesh white ;
July.

GALANDE POINTUE.—Very fertile ; /ruzt very large, rather
irregular, oval or globular, whitish yellow, carmined-purple in the
sun ; flesh reddish ; mid-August.

GROSSE MIGNONNE (Mignonne Ordinaire, Belle de Ferriéres).
—Very fertile; /ruzt very large, spherical, flattened, with pro-
nounced furrow, greenish yellow, purple red in the sun ; flesh
whitish, pink at the core; mid-August.

GROSSE MIGNONNE HATIVE.—Very fertile; fruit very large,
spherical, with pronounced furrow, yellowish green, pale red in
sun; flesh greenish white ; beginning of August.

MADELINE DE COURSON (Madeline & grandes fleurs).—
Very fertile as a standard; /ruz¢t very large, spherical, clear
green, pale pink in sun; flesh whitish, pink at the core; end of
August, September.

MALTE (Malte de Lisieux).—Moderately fertile ; /ruz¢ rather vee

large, spherical, greenish yellow and purple, marbled in the sun ;
beginning of September.

NOBLESSE SEEDLING (Alexandra Noblesse).—Fertile ;_/ruzt large, deep red, furrowed ;
flesh pink at the core ; mid-August.

PRECOCKE DE HALE (Hale’s Early).—Very fertile as a standard; /ruzt large,

FAN-TRAINED PEACH TREE WITH ONE SERIES OF BRANCHES

spherical, narrow, with well-marked furrow, whitish, deep purple in sun ; flesh whitish
purple at the core ; end of July, August. ; :

REINE DES VERGERS (Monstrueuse de Doué).—Very fertile ; fruz¢ large, globular,
with nipple, furrowed, whitish yellow, pale red in sun; /éesh greenish white, pink at
core ; mid-September. ;

SALWAy. — Fertile; rut very large, almost spherical, with pronounced furrow,

360 THE FRUIT GARDEN

nippled, whitish, golden yellow and deep purple in the sun; /lesh bright yellow, red at
core ; end of October. :
TETON DE VENUS.—Moderately fertile ;_/rwzzt large, oval, with long nipple, yellowish
white, brown red in sun ; flesh whitish, pink at core; end of September. ;
VILMORIN.—Fertile ; /rwz¢ large, spherical, furrowed, pale yellow, deep red in the
sun ; flesh white, bright purple at core ; end of September.
WILLERMOZz (Crawford’s Early).—Very fertile as an espalier; /vwz¢ very large,

S

FAN-TRAINED PEACH TREE WITH TWO SERIES OF BRANCHES

globular, flattened at ends, golden yellow, purple in the sun ; flesh yellow, red orange at
core ; end of August.

THE BEST NECTARINES

DE FELIGNIES.—Moderately fertile ;_/7z2¢ medium size, spherical, whitish red on the
sunny side ; flesh pink at core ; commencement of August.

ELRUGE.—Fertile ; /ruz¢ large, red, carmined in sun ; flesh juicy, sweet, agreeably
perfumed ; a good variety for culture under glass ; end of August.

GALOPIN.—Moderately fertile ; /rzz¢ of the largest, spherical, yellowish green, brown
red in sun ; fZesh greenish, red at core ; beginning of August.

LorD NAPIER.—Very fertile as a standard ; /rzz¢ large, rounded, with slight furrow,
greenish yellow, brown red in sun; flesh whitish; mid-August.

ORANGE DE PITMASTON (Pitmaston Orange).—Very fertile ; /ruz¢ large, rounded,
deep red in the sun; mid-August.

PRECOCE DE CRONCELS.—Fertile ; /rwi¢ rather large, spherical, with faint furrow,
pale yellow, whitish and garnet red in sun; flesh white; beginning of August.

PRECOCE RIVERS (Early Rivers).—Fertile ; /rwi¢ large, handsome, deep red colour,
one of the best and most beautiful ; mid-August.

VICTORIA.—Very fertile ; /ruz¢ rather large, spherical, ovoid, yellowish green, brown
red in sun ; /éesh whitish, purple at core ; end of September.

VIOLET Musguk.—Very fertile as an espalier ; /rwzt medium size, roundish-oval,
yellowish white and red, violet carmine in the sun ; flesh pink at core ; beginning of
September.

CLassIFICATION ACCORDING TO TIME oF RIPENING
PEACHES

Middle and Latter Half of July
Amsden | Cumberland

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 361

First Fortnight of August
Grosse Mignonne HAtive | Précoce de Hale
Second Fortnight of August

Crawford’s Early
Galande
Grosse Mignonne Ordinaire

first Fortnight of September
Alexis Lepére | Malte

Madeline de Courson
Noblesse Seedling

Belle Bausse Reine des Vergers
Belle Impériale

Second Fortnight of September

Baltet Bonouvrier
Blondeau Téton de Venus

first Fortnight of October

Admirable Jaune Vilmorin
Salway
NECTARINES
First Fortnight of August
Early Rivers | Précoce de Croncels
Second Fortnight of August
Elruge Lord Napier
De Felignies Pitmaston’s Orange
First Fortnight of September
Galopin | Violet Musqué
Second Fortnight of September
Victoria j
PEacHEs FoR Marker CULTURE
Amsden Grosse Mignonne (Early)
Précoce de Hale Galande
Alexis Lepére Belle Impériale
Baltet Bonouvrier
Salway

The best variety for culture in the open is La Reine des Vergers.

THE PEAR

The pear is hardy, and its fruit will ripen in a low temperature. Some
varieties, however, require the shelter of a wall in the climate of the north of
France. The pear may be grown anywhere by choosing suitable varieties and
situations. ‘Too much warmth shortens the life of the pear tree, and too much

362 THE FRUIT GARDEN

moisture lessens its fertility. The pear likes rich soil of good consistency,
always provided that it is neither too wet nor too dry, and does not contain
much lime.

PropaGaTion.—The pear is grafted upon the wild pear, and upon the

PYRAMID PEAR TREE WITH Two SERIES OF BRANCHES

Quince. When grafted upon the wild stock the pear is less exacting as to the
nature of the soil, though it must have depth, and no excess of water ; but it
is less fertile than when grafted upon the Quince. The latter stock is much
more frequently used (except in hot and calcareous soils), for the crop is larger
and more quickly obtained, and the fruit is much finer.

Forms.—All varieties of the pear do not grow equally well, so in order to
form stems an intermediate stock is often used. ‘[he pear is cultivated in
all forms—standard, pyramid, trained trees, &c.

Pears grown in the open air are supplied by many regions, especially from
the basin of the Loire—Angers, Nantes, |’Aisne, l’Eure, La Seine et Marne, &c.
Some are also sent from Burgundy. Choice pears from espalier trees come from
the neighbourhood of Paris—Montmorency, Groslais, Montreuil, Rosny-sous-
Bois, Fontenay-sous-Bois, Bagnolet, &c.

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 363

Pruninc.—In pruning, account must be taken of the vigour of the varieties
and of the influence of their stocks. Thus Louise Bonne, Duchesse d’Angou-
léme, Doyenné d’Hiver, Williams’, &c., are of moderate vigour and very fertile ;
therefore, limited “forms suit them well, as also Doyenné de Juillet, Beurré

PYRAMID PEAR TREE WITH THREE SERIES OF BRANCHES

de!’Assomption, Souvenir du Congrés, Colmar d’Aremberg, Beurré Clairgeau,
Marguerite Marillat, &c., which, making limited growth when upon the Quince
stock, require small forms. Beurré Hardy, Doyenné du Comice, Beurré Super-
fin, Bergamotte Esperen, Doyenné d’Alengon, &c., are vigorous, and require
large forms. Curé, Triomphe de Jodoigne, Général Todtleben, &c., are still
more vigorous, and require plenty of room in order to be satisfactory. “The

364 THE FRUIT GARDEN

pear (provided the wood is not frozen) may be pruned during the whole winter
up to March. When pruning in winter 1 or 2 millimétres of wood must be
left above the “eye” or bud, in order to prevent the drying up of the latter.

PyRAMID PEAR TREE WITH Four SERIES OF BRANCHES

Old trees, and those which are not vigorous, should be first pruned, while
young and vigorous trees, on the contrary, are pruned later and not cut back so
hard. A good proportion of shoots is kept. On the same tree a weak branch
is left long, and a strong branch cut short, in order to re-establish equilibrium.

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 365

A branch which is pruned early, or not at all, is more favoured than a branch
pruned late.

In summer shorten the strong shoots to two or three leaves, and the weaker
ones to four or five. On portions of the branches of the third year spurs will

|

“.

,

ee ih

DOUBLE-STEMMED FAN-TRAINED PEAR TREE: EACH STEM HAS
THREE BRANCHES

form. The previous year’s shoots will be cut down to three, four, or five
“eyes” according to their vigour. The fruiting growths of the pear are dis-
tinguished as follows :—Those bearing various growths, twiggy shoots, short
growths with three, four, or five leaves, and that portion of a shoot from

GROWTH THAT WILL
DEVELOP INTO
FRUIT- BEARING
SHooT (PEAR) FRUIT-BEARING GROWTHS OF THE PEAR

where the fruit has been gathered. The pear bears fruit upon growths of
various ages, generally upon the short growths, two or three years old, and
which usually are developed from the twiggy shoots and short growths previously
mentioned. ‘This evolution must therefore be encouraged.

366 THE FRUIT GARDEN

Upon branches three years old, the short and twiggy growths are left
untouched, wood growths only are pinched at the third, fourth, or fifth leaf
according to their vigour. The side shoots from the main branches should
be trained Om.10 or Om.12 from each other, to the right and left of the latter,
and above and below them, never at the back and front. Upon an unfertile
tree, the spurs, twiggy shoots, and the point where the fruit was gathered,

; PORTION OF BRANCH

FROM WHERE FRUIT

fl HAS BEEN GATH-
ERED

Fruit buds have formed
there. Upon the
piece ofshoot that re-
mains on the branch
(and was formerly
joined to the stalk)

me after a pear is gath-

= = ss ered, fruit buds will

S= form; it should

therefore be retained
when pruning.

CHARACTERISTIC SHOOT OF PEAR

are retained, while if a tree is bearing sufficiently well, the latter growths are
pruned to the base, and the twiggy shoots are cut back half their length. Pinch-
ing is practised in order to arrest the growth of certain shoots to prevent their
taking too much sap, to ensure the production of good buds at their bases,
and also to strengthen neighbouring shoots.

Tue Brest VaRIETIES

ANDRE DESPORTES.— Fertile; /vuzt medium size, turbinate; s¢a/z medium,
obliquely set in small cavity; eye slightly open; s&zz greenish yellow, tinged with
pink; /zesh very delicate, sweet ; July-August.

BERGAMOTTE CRASSANE (Crassane).—Moderately fertile; /vuzt rather large,

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 367

rounded ; stalz long, wiry ; sé7m greenish yellow, with tawny spots; /lesh soft, juicy,
sweet, perfumed ; end of autumn.

BERGAMOTTE ESPEREN.—Very fertile; /rwz¢ medium sized, rounded; s¢a/& thick,
straight, in small cavity ; eye large, deep ; s#z” greenish yellow, speckled; flesh melting
and juicy, very sweet, perfumed ; end of winter.

BEURRE BACHELIER.—Fertile; fruit very large, oblong, turbinate; s¢a/k short,
obliquely inserted ; eye large, half-closed; s#zz yellowish green, speckled, tawny and
vermilion on the sunny side; flesh white, melting, juicy, sweet ; November—December.

; BEURRE BRETONNEAU.—Moderately fertile ; frwz¢ large, good for cooking; end of
winter.

BEURRE CLAIRGEAU.—Very fertile ; stack medium size; /ruzt large, elongated, often
irregular ; eye open; skim greyish yellow, marked and spotted with fawn, vermilion on
the sunny side ; /Zesk melting, rather acid; November.

BEURRE D’AMANLIS.—Very fertile ; rut rather large, turbinate, elongated ; stalz
short; eye level with fruit; sz yellow, marked with brown-red in the sun; flesh
whitish, melting, very juicy, sweet, perfumed ; September.

BEURRE D/ANGLETERRE.—Very fertile; /ruz¢ small, elongated; eye small, open,
almost projecting; s#zz yellowish green, speckled red, marbled brown; /esh white,
melting, rather acid, good for cooking ; September.

BEURRE D’HARDENPONT (Beurré d’Aremberg).—Of variable fertility; frud¢ large,
oblong; s¢a/z short, thick, in large cavity; eye very open and deep; s#ém clear yellow,
punctuated red, tinged with soft pink on the sunny side; /lesh white, melting, juicy, sweet;
December-—January.

BEURRE DIEL (Beurré Royal, Beurré Magnifique).—_Very fertile; /ruzt very large,
turbinate; s/a/é strong, wiry, in rather large cavity; sz yellow, speckled with gold,
marbled brown ; /esh white, half-melting, sugared, perfumed ; November and December.

BEURRE DUMONT.—Moderately fertile; /ruz/ large, cylindrical, flattened; stalk
short, wiry; eye small, open; sm clear green, speckled brown, tinged red in the sun ;
fiesh melting, very juicy and sweet ; November.

BEURRE GIFFARD.—Moderately fertile ; /ru¢t medium size, turbinate; s¢aZk short ;
eye almost closed; sé greenish yellow, dull red on the sunny side; /esh melting,
slightly perfumed; end of July and August.

BEURRE GRIS.—Very fertile; /7wz¢ medium size or rather large, turbinate or oblong;
stalk short, wiry; eve half-closed, level with the surface; s¢m variable; colour grey,
white, or golden yellow ; flesh white, melting, very juicy, sweet ; September—October.

BEURRE Harpy.—Fertile; fruzt large, turbinate; sta/k short, thick, oblique; eye
small, open; sé dark yellow, clear tawny brown, dark red in the sun; /Zesh white,
very melting and juicy, sweet, exquisite ; September.

BEURRE PICQUERY (Des Urbanistes).—Very fertile ; /ruz¢ medium, oval; stalk
variable; eye small and very deep, open; sé” bright yellow, sometimes red in sun ;
Jesh melting, very sweet, perfumed ; October~November.

BEURRE SUPERFIN.—Fertile; /vud¢ rather large, turbinate, irregular; sza/k
swollen, obliquely inserted ; eye large, round; s&zz golden yellow, speckled and spotted,
vermilion in the sun ; flesh very melting, juicy, sweet, and scented; September.

Bon CHRETIEN (Williams’).—Very fertile ; s/a/& short, thick ; fruz¢ ovoid or oblong ;
eye open ; skin straw yellow, tawny or carmined in sun; flesh white, juicy, melting, very
sweet; August and September. : :

CATILLAC.—Very fertile ; fru¢t very large, turbinate, rounded; s¢a/k long, thick;
eye large, open ; skim greenish yellow, speckled, marbled and spotted with bright brown-
red in the sun; flesh coarse, juicy, crisp, excellent for stewing and cooking; February-
April.

Pcuamene CoGNEE.—vVery vigorous; /ruzt rather large, oval; séa/k straight,
swollen at end; eye open, deep; s&z pink yellow, delicately punctured with brown ;
Jiesh slightly granulous, sweet, perfumed; February. :

CHARLES ERNEST.—Fertile ; fruz¢ large, pyriform or turbinate, angular ; s¢a/é short,
thick, wiry ; eve small, open ; s&z7 yellow, shaded pink, speckled grey ; flesh white, deli-
cate, melting, very juicy, sweet, perfumed ; November-December.

368 THE FRUIT GARDEN

COMTESSE DE Paris.—Fertile ; /ruz¢ large, elongated ; s¢a/k medium size, obliquely
inserted ; eye half-open, slightly depressed ; skzz greenish tinged with red, speckled with
brown; flesh very juicy and sweet ; December—January.

CurE (Belle de Berry).—Very fertile on Quince ; /rwz¢ very large, elongated ; stalk
thick ; eye large, level with surface of fruit ; sez clear, greenish yellow and brown red ;
Jiesh white, melting, perfumed ; good for cooking ; December—February.

DE TONGRES (Beurré Durondeau).—Fertile; /ruz¢ rather large, pyriform; sz
tawny, tinted red, and speckled grey ; eye half-closed, in slight depression ; s¢a/% short ;
#esh whitish, rather acid, very juicy, perfumed ; October,

DOCTEUR JULES GUYOT.—/7ruwz? large or very large, pyriform ; s¢a/é irregular; skin
lemon yellow and pink ; flesh melting, juicy, sweet ; November.

DOYENNE D’ALENGON.—Very fertile ; /raz¢ medium size, rounded oval, irregular ;
stalk short, thick, wiry ; eye small, half-closed ; s#zz yellowish red, speckled, and marbled
with brown and grey ; /zesk white, juicy, sweet ; December—February.

DOYENNE DHIVER (Bergamotte de Pentecédte).—A very fertile pear; rit very
large, globular, irregular; s¢a/é short, thick, swollen; eye large, open; sézz greenish yellow,
speckled and spotted brown ; flesh whitish, melting, a little granulous at the core, very
sweet, perfumed ; January to April.

DOVENNE DE JUILLET.—Very fertile; /ruzt small, spherical; s¢a/k thick, wiry,
swollen, in deep cavity; eye small, half-closed, level with the surface of fruit; skzx
greenish yellow, carmined on the sunny side; /esh, melting, perfumed ; mid-July.

DOoYENNE Doré£ (Doyenné Blanc, Doyenné St. Michel).—Very fertile ; /ruz¢ medium
size, rounded oval, irregular ; s¢a/é short, thick, oblique; eye small, half-closed ; skzm,
whitish yellow, with brown spots, red and vermilion in the sun; /Zesh melting, juicy,
and sweet ; September—October.

DOVENNE DU COMICE.—Moderately fertile ; frwz¢ large, regular, turbinate ; stalk
swollen and oblique, no cavity; eye in a large irregular cavity ; skim straw yellow,
speckled, and marbled with brown, vermilion in the sun; flesh white, melting, juicy,
very sweet ; November—December.

DUCHESSE D’ANGOULEME.—Very fertile ; /ruzt very large, oval ; stalk short, thick ;
eye half-closed; sz greenish yellow, sometimes pale pink in the sun; /lesk white,
melting, sweet, vinous. October to January.

EPARGNE.—Very fertile; /ru¢¢ medium size, elongated, cylindrical; s¢a/z long,
swollen ; eye small, open, level with the surface of fruit; sz clear yellowish green,
vermilion in the sun ; /esk white, with greenish veins, very juicy, rather acid ; end of July.

FAVORITE DE CLAPP (Clapp’s Favourite).—Fertile ; /rzz¢ large, oval; stalk short ;
eye half-closed in a narrow and not very deep cavity ; sé greenish yellow tinged with
pale red, carmined and dotted with red in the sun; flesh white, melting, juicy, sweet;
August.

FONDANTE DES Bois (Beurré Spence).—Fertile ; /ruz¢ very large, oblong; eye half-
closed; s¢a/k swollen in deep cavity; siz golden yellow and bright red in the sun; end
of autumn.

FONDANTE DU PANISEL (Délice d’Hardenpont, d’Angers).—Very fertile; /-z¢ rather
large, oval or round, very irregular; s¢a/é short, thick; eye small, half-closed in cavity;
skin lemon yellow, dark red in the sun; flesh medium size, melting, sweet, perfumed ;
November.

JOSEPHINE DE MALINES.—Fertile; /ruz¢ rather large, irregular or rounded; stalk
short, thick ; sz lemon yellow, marked with red in the sun; /Zesh melting, juicy, sugared,
perfumed; November to February.

La FraNcE.—Fertile; /ruz¢ rather large, rounded conical, irregular; s¢a/k thick,
rather short in deep cavity ; eve half-open ; s#zz greyish, pale yellow, bronzy green in the
sun ; /lesh white, melting, very juicy, very sweet, perfumed ; October and November.

LE LEecTIER.—Fertile; /rwzt large, elongated ; s¢a/k short, no cavity; eye large, half-
open, slightly sunken; s#z7 greenish, getting yellow as fruit matures ; /esh white, melting,
juicy, sweet; January.

LOUISE BONNE D’AVRANCHES (Louise Bonne).—Very productive ; /ruz¢ large, oval,
elongated ; s¢a/z rather long, swollen, no cavity; eye half-closed; skim yellowish green

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 369

with large brown spots, bright red in the sun; flesh white, juicy, melting, sweet, perfumed;
September and October.

MADAME TREYVE.— Moderately fertile; /ruz¢ large, variable, conical, elongated, or
oval; sta/é small, swollen, oblique, no cavity; eye small, half-closed; sx olive yellow,
spotted with gold, reddish in the sun; August and September.

MARTIN SEC.—Very productive ; /ruz¢ medium size, turbinate; s¢a/k long, swollen ;
eye large; sktm clear red, punctured yellow, carmined in the sun; flesh whitish, crisp,
sweet; good for cooking; November to January.

MESSIRE JEAN.—Very productive; fruit medium size, turbinate; s¢a/k short, no
cavity; eye large, open; sé¢z golden red and brownish; good for preserving ; November.

NEc PLUS MEURIS (Leurré d’Anjou).—Moderately fertile; /ruzt large, oval; stalk
short, thick; eye half-open; skin yellowish green, red-brown in the sun; flesh yellowish,
melting, juicy, sweet, perfumed ; November.

OLIVIER DE SERRES.—Moderately productive; /rw/¢ medium size, spherical; stalk
rather short, wiry, in deep cavity; eye large; siz olive yellow, tinted tawny ; /esh whitish,
melting, sweet, perfumed ; February-March.

PaSSE COLMAR.—Moderately fertile; /-uz¢ moderately large, turbinate, often elon-
gated; stack swollen, no cavity; eye open in large cavity; sé golden yellow, speckled,
ie spotted with red ; fesk melting or half-crisp, juicy, very sweet, perfumed ; December-

ebruary.

PASSE CRASSANE.— Moderately fertile ; frat large, rounded, oval; s¢a/k rather long,
swollen; eye large, open; s#z yellowish green, speckled red, tinged with tawny brown ;
tesh white, perfumed, half-melting, slightly acid flavour; January-March.

REMY CHATENAY.—Fertile; frué¢ large, pyriform, rounded; sfa/k fleshy, without
cavity; eye open, deep-set; skim greenish yellow, spotted pink, speckled with tawny on
the sunny side ; flesh rather juicy, sugary ; March-April.

SEIGNEUR ESPEREN (Seigneur, Bergamotte, Curative).—Very productive; /ruzt
medium size or rather large, variable, oval or globular; s¢a/k short, straight, in small
cavity ; eye open; skin greyish yellow; flesh white, melting, juicy, sugary, perfumed ;
September-October.

SOLDAT-LABOUREUR.—Moderately fertile ; fruz¢ rather large, variable, turbinate ;
stalk short, strong, wiry; eye large, closed ; sz golden yellow, red brown; /éesh white,
melting, juicy, very sweet ; October-November.

TRIOMPHE DE JODOIGNE.—Moderately fertile; /ruz¢ large or very large, conical,
rregular ; s¢a/k swollen, no cavity; eye small; s&z# dull yellow, marked with red, red on
the sunny side ; flesh whitish and melting ; November and December.

TRIOMPHE DE VIENNE.—Fruié large, pyriform; eye open; sk bright yellow,
brown, and slightly pink on the sunny side; /esh white, melting, very juicy, perfumed ;
August-September.

CLASSIFICATION ACCORDING TO TIME OF RIPENING
Second Fortnight of July
André Desportes | Doyenné de Juillet

Beurré Giffard Epargne
August
Bon Chrétien (Williams’) | Docteur Jules Guyot
Clapp’s Favourite
September

Beurré d’Amanlis Beurré Superfin

» Gris Madame Treyve

»» Hardy Triomphe de Vienne

3779

THE FRUIT GARDEN

September—October

Beurré Picquery
Doyenné Doré
Fondante des Bois

Louis Bonne
Seigneur Esperen

October and November

Beurré Dumont
Doyenné du Comice
Duchesse d’Angouléme

De Tongres
Fondante du Panisel
Nec plus Meuris

November-December

Bergamotte Crassane
Beurré Bachelier

» Clairgeau

Beurré Diel
Charles Ernest
Soldat-Laboureur

December—January

Beurré d@’Hardenpont
Comtesse de Paris
La France

Le Lectier
Passe Colmar
Triomphe de Jodoigne

January-March-Aprit

Bergamotte Esperen
Charles Cognée
Doyenné d’Alengon
d’Hiver

bed

Josephine de Malines
Passe Crassane
Olivier de Serres
Remy Chatenay

VARIETIES FOR MarkKET CULTURE

Beurré Clairgeau

» Diel
» @Hardenpont
» Hardy
», @Amanlis
Charles Ernest
Curé
CooKING
Beurré d’Angleterre
» Bretonneau
Catillac

VARIETIES FOR
Carisie-gros.
De Maude.
De Cirole.

VARIETIES FO

Doyenné d’Hiver

s du Comice
Duchesse d’Angouléme
Epargne
Louise Bonne
Passe Crassane
Williams’

V ARIETIES

Curé
Martin Sec
Messire Jean

PERRY-MAKING
Carisie-petit.
Ragnet.

De Sauge.

R STANDARDS

All Cooking and Perry-making varieties ; and also

Beurré d’Amaniis.
Hardy.

» Dumont.
Bergamotte Esperen,
Doyenné d’Alengon.

”

Epargne.
Comtesse de Paris.
Louise Bonne.
Soldat-Laboureur.
Williams’.

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE S71

VARIETIES FOR PYRAMIDS

André Desportes
Bergamotte Esperen
Beurré Bachelier
» Clairgeau
» Dumont
» Giffard
» Gris
» Hardy
» Picquery
» Superfin
Bon Chrétien ( Williams’)
Charles Ernest
Comtesse de Paris
De Tongres
Docteur Jules Guyot
Doyenné de Juillet
” » Doré
- » @’Alengon

Doyenné du Comice
Duchesse d’Angouléme
Favorite de Clap
Fondante des Bois
55 du Panisel

La France
Le Lectier
Louise Bonne
Madame Treyve
Nec plus Meuris
Olivier de Serres
Passe Colmar

» Crassane
Remy Chatenay
Seigneur Esperen
Soldat-Laboureur
Josephine de Malines
Triomphe de Vienne

VARIETIES FOR PALMATES

All the varieties mentioned for Pyramids, and especially

Epargne
Beurré d’Amanlis

» Diel
Josephine de Malines
Triomphe de Jodoigne

Beurré d’Aremberg
Bergamotte Crassane
Charles Cognée
Passe Colmar

THE APPLE

The apple, like the pear, is hardy and grows well almost anywhere, provided
that it has plenty of air, and a rather strong soil. Wwi@Ao
PropaGaTion.—lIt is increased by grafting upon the wild stock for standard

NET-WorRK FoRM OF TRAINING (APPLE)

trees; upon the Doucin for pyramids, palmates, &c.; upon the Paradise
stock for cordons. Varieties which are not sufficiently vigorous are grafted
upon an intermediate stock; for example, upon Noire de Vitry, or Genereuse
de Vitry, &c. The apple upon the Paradise stock does not require a deep soil,
but it must have a cool one. In dry soil and that containing lime it is better
to have trees on the Doucin stock for the small forms. ‘The apple tree is

372 THE FRUIT GARDEN

most often grown asa standard, particularly the cooking varieties and the free-
bearing ones. In the market garden only tender varieties and those of great
value are cultivated upon walls, or trained vase-shaped in the open.

In the amateur’s garden the apple is cultivated in the form most convenient
to the garden, often as a horizontal cordon. ‘The remarks upon pruning the
pear apply to the apple, except that one may cut in the shoots rather more
closely. °

Apples are grown more or less throughout France, sometimes for cider-
making, sometimes for the market. They are cultivated especially for these
purposes in Normandy, Brittany, Picardy, Artois, La Sarthe, La Mayenne,
Le Nord, Le Puy de Déme, La Limagne, Le Limousin, La Seine et Marne, &c.

In the neighbourhood of Paris the best apples are grown at Montreuil,
Rosny, Sannois, Versailles, &c.

Tue Best VaRIETIES

API-PETIT (Api rose).—Very fertile ; /7wz¢ small, spherical, flattened; s¢a/é short in
large cavity ; eve partly closed ; sé” straw yellow, carmined in the sun; flesh greenish
white, crisp, juicy, sweet, and of agreeable flavour ; January-May.

ASTRAKAN ROUGE (Transparent Red).-—Very productive; /rwit medium size, globu-
lar, irregular ; stack medium sized, wiry ; eve small, half-closed ; s¢z greenish yellow ;
crimsoned in the sun; end of July.

BaT?’s BEAUTY.—Fertile ; /ruzf rather large, rounded, depressed at the eye; s/alz
medium or rather short in large and deep cavity; eye rather large, with long sepals
in a large but not deep cavity; s# clear yellow, spotted marbled and tinged with
vermilion ; flesh yellowish white, firm, juicy, sweet, perfumed ; July-August.

BELLE-FILLE.—Very fertile ; /rwzt medium size, spherical, flattened; s¢a/k short,
rather thick ; eye small; sém clear yellow, marbled with tawny brown on the sunny
side ; flesh whitish, crisp, sweet, perfumed ; November-February.

BOROVITSKY.—Moderately fertile; fruit large, globular; s/a/z short, thick; eye
large, half-closed; sé” clear yellow, streaked with carmine ; flesh white, soft, slightly
acid; July-August.

CALVILLE BLANCHE.—Very fertile ; frwz¢ very large, variable ; s¢a/k short, slender
in variable cavity ; eve large, half-closed ; s&m straw yellow, speckled grey, spotted red,
soft pink on the sunny side ; _//esh yellowish, firm, juicy, very sweet, perfumed ; Decem-
ber-May.

CouRT PENDU GRIS.—Not very fertile ; /r«z¢ medium size, flattened, globular ; stalk
short, strong in deep cavity ; eye large; skzz greenish yellow, brown in the sun; flesh
yellowish, firm, sweet and perfumed ; November—March.

DE CHATAIGNIER.—Very fertile ; /uz¢ medium size, spherical, rounded oval ; stalk
short, swollen; eye large, half-closed ; s#z7 greenish yellow, tinged with carmine ; flesh
white and yellowish, crisp, rather sweet ; December-April ; standard.

DE JAUNE (Reinette de Mans).—Very fertile; /rwzf rather large, rounded oval;
stalk very short, very strong ; eye large, open ; sz clear yellow and red brown; January—
May.

DE L’EsTRE (L’Estre, De la Fenétre).—Moderately fertile ; /rwz¢ rather large, elon-
gated, cylindrical ; s¢a/k variable, large ; eye very open; séz# clear yellow, marked red
and pink, carmined in the sun; December- May.

DE LANDE.—Productive ; /rwzt medium size, red; flesh firm, good for preserves ;
February—April.

DE VERITE.—Fru/t small, greenish and pink ; April, May.

FENOUILLET GRIS.—Moderately fertile ; /rzit medium size, globular ; s¢a/k short in
large cavity ; eye small; s#2 dark yellow, tinged with red grey ; Zest white, rather soft,
sweet scented ; December-April.

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 373

_ GRAND ALEXANDRE.—Fertile; /ruz¢ very large, conical, rounded ; s¢a/k short, thick
in variable cavity ; eye very large, half-closed ; s#dm yellowish, tinged with carmine and
covered with a glaucous bloom ; /esh greenish, crisp, very sweet; September-November.

GRAVENSTEIN.—Very fertile ; /rud¢ large, conical, irregular ; sta/k thick ; eye large,
half-closed; sé¢# clear yellow, carmined in the sun; flesh whitish, soft, very sweet
perfumed ; September-November.

JEANNE Harpy.—Fertile ; /ruz¢ large or very large, red; December-January.

LINNUS PIPPIN (Lincoln Pippin, Belle Fleur Jaune).—Moderately fertile ; fruct
rather large, elongated, conical; s/a/z rather short; eye large; sm brilliant yellow, soft
pink in the sun ; flesh yellowish, soft, acidulated, and perfumed ; December-February.

MENAGERE (P. de Livre).—Fertile ; frudt very large, spherical, flattened; stalk
medium sized ; eye very large, scarcely opened ; s#zm pale yellow, tinged with brick red ;
flesh whitish, very crisp, rather sweet ; December-January.

PEASGOOD’S NONESUCH (Sans Pareille de Peasgood).—Fruzt large or very large,
spherical ; sfa/k short; eye large, open; sé pale yellow, bright pink in the sun; flesh
yellowish, soft, sweet, perfumed ; September-November.

PIGEON ROUGE D’HIVER (Pigeon Rouge, Pigeonnet Rose).—Very fertile; /ruz¢
medium size, carmined yellow; November—January.

RAMBOUR D’ETE.—Very fertile; Jruit very large, flattened, globular; s¢aZk short,
wiry, oblique, in large, deep cavity; eye large, half-closed ; flesh whitish yellow, red
brown, carmined ; September.

RAMBOUR D’ HIVER.—Moderately fertile; fruzt very large, flattened, globular; stalk
short, rather thick, in large cavity; eye large; skin pale yellow, carmined and tawny in
the sun; flesh sweet; November~March.

RAVAILLAC.—Fertile ; frvz¢ medium size; winter.

REINE DES REINETTES.—Moderately fertile ; /rw¢¢ medium size, cylindrical, conical ;
stalk medium size, strong, wiry; eye large, half-closed; sé grey and yellow, carmine
brown in the sun; flesh firm, sweet; December—March.

REINETTE BAUMANN (Reinette de Bolleviller)—Moderately fertile; /ruz¢ large,
round, conical; sfa/k very thick, short; eye large; skin yellowish, tinged carmine, and
spotted brown ; flesh somewhat acid; January-March.

REINETTE BLANCHE DU CANADA.—Moderately fertile; /ruzt very large, globular,
elongated or flattened, conical; s¢a/# short, in large cavity; eye very large; séi golden
yellow, spotted with brown, speckled grey, red on the sunny side ; flesh yellowish, rather
soft, sweet, juicy, with a very delicate flavour; January-March.

REINETTE DE Caux.— Very fertile; /ruz¢ very large, of variable form ; sta/k swollen,
in large cavity; s#/z golden yellow, carmined and tawny, speckled with clear grey;
flesh yellowish white, firm and juicy, sweet, perfumed ; October-April.

REINETTE DE Cuzy (Reinette Carrée).— Moderately fertile; /rz/¢ medium or large,
elongated, conical or rounded; s¢a/& short, wiry; szz deep yellow, brick red in the sun ;
flesh sweet; January—May.

REINETTE DOREE DE VITRY.—Very fertile; /ruz¢ medium size, globular; stalk
short usually ; eye rather large, open or half-closed; sé golden yellow, brown in the
sun ; flesh white, sweet, and of exquisite flavour ; December-April.

REINETTE FRANCHE.—Fertile; /ruz¢ rather large, of variable form; s¢a/é usually
short, in narrow cavity; s#z7 pale yellow, spotted with grey ; flesh yellowish white, crisp,
very sweet, perfumed; December-May. :

REINETTE GRISE DE SAINTONGE (Reinette Haute Bonté).—Moderately fertile ; frat
medium size, variable in form; sfa/é rather long; eye large; skin deep grey; jlesh
yellowish, crisp, sweet; January-April. ;

REINETTE GRISE DU CANADA (Canada Gris).—Very fertile ; Jruit very large,
globular; s¢aZk short, strong; eye large, very open; skim greenish yellow, tinged with
brown grey; flesh crisp, juicy, and sweet, perfumed; November—April. —

REINETTE GRISE DE VITRY.—Very fertile ; /rwz¢ medium size, conical, rounded or
spherical, flattened; s¢a/k very short, stout, in large cavity; eye large, open or half-
closed; sé greenish, tinged with grey brown and marked with red; /esh rather soft,
sweet, deliciously perfumed ; December—April.

374 THE FRUIT GARDEN

RIBSTON PIPPIN.—Very fertile; /ruz¢ large, irregular, cone-shaped ; s¢a/é short, wiry ;
eye large; sk¢x golden yellow, dull red, marbled, tawny in the sun; flesh yellowish,
sweet, perfumed; December-March.

ROYALE D’ANGLETERRE (Reinette d’Angleterre).—Very fertile; /ruzt very large,
rounded, conical; s¢a/k short, thick, oblique; eye large, open or half-closed; skzm lemon
yellow, orange yellow, and clear red, with tawny spots on the sunny side; /Zesh yellowish
sweet, perfumed; September—-December.

SUGAR-LOAF PIPPIN (Reinette Pain de Sucre).—Moderately fertile ; 77d moderately
large, truncate, conical, more or less pointed or rounded; sézz beautiful pale green,
turning to yellow; eye half-open, in narrow and deep cavity; s¢a/z medium or short, in
large cavity; lesk whitish, rather crisp, somewhat acid; beginning of August.

TRANSPARENTE DE CRONCELS.—Fertile ; fru? rather large, spherical; s/aZz slender ;
eye large, open or half-open; s&zz yellowish white, pale pink on the sunny side; /lesk
salmon-coloured, juicy, rather acid, perfumed; August-December.

CLASSIFICATION ACCORDING TO TIME OF RIPENING

End of July

Astrakan Rouge Borovitsky
Beauty of Bath

August
Sugar-loaf Pippin
August-September

Rambour @’Eté | Transparente de Croncels
September—October

Grand Alexandre Peasgood’s Nonsuch

Gravenstein

October, November, December
Jeanne Hardy Reine des Reinettes
Ménagére Royale d’Angleterre
December—January
Fenouillet Gris | Reinette Baumann
Linnzeus Pippin 7 Dorée de Vitry

January-April

Api Rose Reinette Blanche du Canada
Calville Blanche » du Canada Grise
Pigeon Rouge d’Hiver 35 Franche
Rambour d’Hiver 3 Grise de Saintonge
Reinette de Caux 55 Grise de Vitry

» de Cuzy

VaRIETIES FOR Marker Cuiture

DWARF TREES

Grand Alexandre Reinette de Caux
Transparente de Croncels Api Rose
Reinette Blanche du Canada Calville Blanche

» Grise du Canada Reinette de Cuzy

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 375

STANDARDS
Belle Fille De Jaune
De Chataignier De Lande

VARIETIES FOR CiDER MakING

October

Blanc Mollet St. Laurent
Reine des HAtives

a

November

Amére de Berthecourt Martin Fessard
Argite Grise Medaille d’Or
Barbarie Passe Reine des Pommes

De Moran | Rouge Bruyére

Godard Rouge de Tréves
End of November and December

Bedan l De Bouteille

Binet Blanc | Grise Dieppoise

Marin Dufray Hauchecorne
Rousse Latour Peau de Vache Nouvelle

VARIETIES FOR STANDARDS

All the cider varieties Reinette Dorée de Vitry
Astrakan Rouge 5 de Caux
Gravenstein 53 de Cuzy

Fenouillet Gris 3 Blanche du Canada
Linnzeus Pipvin » Grise de Saintonge
Rambour d@’Eté ss de Vitry

Reine des Reinettes Royale d’Angleterre, &c.

Reinette Baumann

VARIETIES FOR PyraMIDs

All except Grand Alexandre, Peasgood’s Nonesuch, and Ménagére. These are
best as trained trees on account of the size of their fruits. Calville Blanche requires wall
culture.

THE PLUM

The plum on account of its early flowering dreads the frosts, and requires,
as far as possible, a sheltered situation. It is not difficult to suit as regards soil,
always provided that this is neither excessively dry nor wet and moderately
deep. ‘This permits of its culture throughout almost the whole of France.
The plum tree is propagated by grafting. Some local varieties are propagated
by suckers. The seedling St. Julien is the stock generally used ; the variety
changing with the locality. “The plum is extensively grown both by amateurs
and for sale. Amateurs grow the trees in various trained forms. For market
gardens standards alone are recommended ; they are planted 5 or 6 metres from
each other, The plum is grown throughout France, but especially in the

376 THE FRUIT GARDEN

neighbourhood of large towns where the sale of fresh plums is certain. In the
vicinity of Paris the chief districts are Argenteuil, Sannois, Epinay, Raincy,
Rosny-sous-Bois, the valley of the Bicore, &c.
The east of France furnishes prunes and mira-
belles. In Tourraine and the region of Agen
prunes are grown in great quantities.

Pruninc.—The fruit is borne upon branches
and twigs of one year’s growth. ‘This must be
remembered in pruning, and care taken not to
destroy fruit-buds when cutting the shoots; cut
to a “wood’’-bud, always more pointed than a
“ flower’’-bud. The disbudding and pinching
should be moderate. In training the shoots must
be taken in good time and handled with care, for
they are very brittle.

Tue Best VaRIETIES

BONNE DE Bry.—Fertile; fruz¢ small, spherical;
SHOOT OF PLUM TREE IN FRUIT syg/Z short, in narrow, slight cavity; s## reddish black ;
flesh greenish; end of July.

Coks GOLDEN DRopP (Goutte d’Or de Coé).—Very fertile; /ruz¢ large, elongated,
oval, with a marked furrow; sfa/é long, slender, narrow cavity; siz golden yellow,
tinged with red ; flesh yellow; end of September, October.

D’AGEN (D’Ente).—Very fertile; fruz¢ elongated, ovoid, with pronounced furrow;
stalk rather long, in narrow, deep cavity; s&z# violet pink, plum-coloured, or bluish ;
beginning of September.

DE MONTFORT.—Fertile ; /ruz¢ rather large, long, ovate; s¢a/k rather thick, deep
cavity ; skzz dark violet, slightly tawny; /Zesh greenish yellow ; mid-August.

JEFFERSON.—Very fertile; /ruzt large, round, with large shallow furrow; skin
greenish yellow, rose-coloured on the sunny side; /esh greenish; end of August,
September.

KIRKE’s.—Fertile ; /ruz¢ large, spherical, large shallow furrow; sfa/k rather long,
in deep cavity; s#zz violet purple, or whitish plum colour; flesh greenish yellow;
September.

MIRABELLE GROSSE DE NANCy.—Moderately fertile ; /7uz¢ medium size, spherical,
broad shallow furrow; s¢a/k rather short, slender, in narrow, deep, regular cavity; s#ix
yellow, marbled with pure rose ; end of August, September.

MIRABELLE PETITE DE METZ.—Very fertile; fruzt small, or very small, rounded-
ovoid, broad, well-marked furrow ; s¢a/k slender, in narrow, slight cavity; sé golden
yellow, marbled with amaranth red; flesh yellow; August.

MONSIEUR HAtTIF.—Very fertile; /7u7¢ medium sized, rounded, with shallow furrow;
stalk rather short, in narrow cavity; s#z# intense purple, tinged with yellow; flesh
yellowish green ; beginning of August.

MONSIEUR A FRUIT JAUNE.—Moderately fertile ; /ruz¢ medium, or rather large,
rounded-ovoid ; s¢a/k medium, in regular cavity ; skzz yellow, speckled with gold, and
striped with carmine red; flesh yellow; mid-August.

QUETSCHE D’ALLEMAGNE (Altesse-Ordinaire).—Very fertile; frit medium, or
rather large ovoid, or regular elliptical ; s/a/& thick, rather long, without cavity ; sz
violet purple, plum-coloured ; fess yellow green. Prune. September.

QUETSCHE D’ITALIE.—Very fertile ; fruz¢ medium, or rather large, long-ovoid ;
stalk thick, long, in narrow, rather deep cavity; s4zz violet, and whitish plum-coloured.
Prune. End of September.

REINE CLAUDE D’ALTHANN.—Very fertile ; /ruz¢ large, spherical, broad, slight

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 377

furrow ; sfa.k slender, rather long, in large, shallow cavity ; s&z# yellowish, purpled in
the sun; /esh clear yellow ; August-September.

REINE CLAUDE DE Bavay.—Very fertile; rut large, rounded-oval, wide furrow ;
stalk medium, in narrow and deep cavity; s#iz greenish yellow, shining, delicately
marked ; end of September.

REINE CLAUDE DIAPHANE (Reine Claude Transparente).—Fertile ; fruit large,
spherical, with faint furrow; s¢a/é thick, short, in narrow, deep cavity ; shiz golden
yellow, rose carmine in the sun ; flesh greenish yellow; beginning of September.

REINE CLAUDE DoRfE (Reine Claude Abricotine).—Very fertile ; fruz¢ medium or
rather large, spherical, with wide deep furrow ; s¢adk short, thick, in broad, deep cavity ;
skin yellowish green, golden in the sun ; flesh yellowish green; end of August.

REINE CLAUDE HATIVE.—Fertile ; /rvd¢ medium size, spherical, with slight furrow ;
stalk short, in slight cavity, greenish yellow ; mid-July.

REINE CLAUDE VIOLETTE.—Fertile ;_/ru#/¢ medium or rather large, spherical ; skin
deep violet, spotted tawny yellow, plum blue ; flesh greenish ; mid-September.

STE. CATHERINE.—Fertile; fruit golden yellow; fesh rather acid. Prune. Mid-
September.

CLASSIFICATION ACCORDING TO TIME OF RIPENING
Second Fortnight of July

Bonne de Bry | Reine Claude HAative
First Fortnight of August
Monsieur Hatif De Montfort
7 a Fruit Jaune

Second Fortnight of August

”
Noberte

Kirke’s Reine Claude d’Althann
Mirabelle Grosse de Nancy , » Dorée
95 Petite de Metz
First Fortnight of September
D’Agen Reine Claude Diaphane
Jefferson » Violette

Second Fortnight of September

Coé’s Golden Drop Quetsche d’Italie
Quetsche d’Allemagne Reine Claude de Bavay

The plum is generally grown as a standard ; other forms are not to be recommended.

VARIETIES FOR Marker CULTURE

Monsieur Hatif De Montfort

Mirabelle Petite, for jams and Reine Claude Dorée
liqueurs 56 5 Violette

Coé’s Golden Drop 3 i de Bavay

St. Catherine, d’Agen, Quetsche d’Allemagne (Prunes)

The Noberte plum, for tarts, &c., is very much grown in Le Soissonnais. The tree is
moderately vigorous, and very fertile. Its medium-sized black fruit is much appreciated.

378 THE FRUIT GARDEN

THE VINE

The vine dreads hard frosts, and unless sheltered situations with good
aspects be found for it, spring frosts will often spoil the prospects of a good crop.
Moreover, to ripen the fruit a rather high temperature is necessary, which is
tantamount to saying that with the exception of a few early varieties, such as
Black Madeline, the Golden Chasselas, and a few others, recourse must be had to
walls facing the east and south for vine culture in the neighbourhood of Paris.

The soil must be good, rather light, siliceous, or calcareous. As the roots

SINGLE CORDON VINES

spread there is no need of great depth of soil. The vine is propagated in several
ways: by cuttings, layers, or grafting. This last method is generally em-
ployed in order to utilise certain “stocks” which withstand the phylloxera.

Forms.—The vine is cultivated in the ancient “Thomery” form, as
vertical cordons and palmates.

Planting varies according to the form of tree. For the “Thomery” each
side of the horizontal cordon has about 1m.50 space, that is 3 métres for the
entire cordon. For simple palmates the distance apart is 1 métre; and for
alternate palmates, om.50 or om.60. For ordinary cordons, 2 métres; and
for cordons with long shoots, 1 m. or 1m.50.

Piantinc.—The soil having been first prepared and strongly manured, a

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 379

trench is opened at the foot of the wall or espalier, and the plant is placed in at
a depth of om.30 or om.35. Contrary to the ancient practice, which de-
manded a depth of from 1 m. to 1m.50, the stem is buried in the soil om.50
deep at the utmost. In rather wet land the planting is done close to the foot of
the wall; on the other hand, in hot dry soils the vine is planted on the north

zi = SSS

DWARF AND TALL CORDON VINES ALTERNATELY ARRANGED

side, and the shoot is brought through the wall in order that it may be trained
on the south side.

Pruninc.—The pruning of the first year consists in cutting the cane back
to two “eyes” above the soil, choosing the better of the two to lay the
foundation of the plant: in case of accident the other shoot can be made use
of. For the following years, pruning is directed towards the formation of
the frame, and the regulation of the shoots.

380 THE FRUIT GARDEN

The best time for pruning is the spring, sufficiently late to retard
growth, and so diminish the risk of danger from frost. The cut should be
at 14 cm. above the eye. In pruning the shoots it is necessary every year to
cut those which have borne fruit back to two buds. Fruiting growths are
pinched to one leaf above the bunch of grapes, other shoots from om.60 to
om.80. In training the vine work with great care; the young shoots are very
brittle. When a vine diminishes in vigour it must be manured, especially with
potash manures, and it must be pruned back short in order to restore the
vigour indispensable to its productiveness. “The vine may even have to be
cut down just above the soil. This induces the growth of a vigorous shoot,

h

-

Seeens.) Seman
= eS api
=

PRUNING A ONE-YEAR-OLD PRUNING A VINE SHOOT, THREE
VINE SHOOT YEARS OLD

which is afterwards trained up to take the place of the weakened one.
Annular incision sometimes gives finer bunches of grapes and hastens their
ripening.

Let us first look to the formation, and we find that in the vine the
buds are alternate, and that it bears fruit on the shoots which are produced
by wood of one year’s growth. The cordons are formed, of course, as each of
the vines arrives at the height where it should bifurcate into the T, The T.’s
in the “Thomery”’ form of training are formed by cutting to a bud at the
height of the iron-wire, and by taking the bud immediately below for the
opposite branch. This operation can also be done when the shoots are
green.

The formation being acquired, every year a shoot on either side is taken.

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 381

The shoots are from om.15 to om.18 apart.- Simple palmates are suit-

ANNULAR INCISION

A ring of bark and tissue is re-
VINE SHOOT PINCHED AT ONE LEAF moved below the bunch to hasten
ABOVE THE BUNCH and perfect its development.

able for walls which do not exceed 2 métres in height ; and alternate palmates

Ate eee cai a WEB aed ie sone =

j

METHOD OF FORMING T OF THE VINE FOR THE THOMERY FORM OF TRAINING
The shoot beyond the bend is stopped to cause a bud at the bend to grow: this is then trained in,

for those which are higher. The shoots are set up at from om.20 to 0m.25

382 THE FRUIT GARDEN

from each other; and the first is at om.25 from the soil. One or two shoots
are taken each year according to their vigour.

Horizontal cordons are obtained and treated in the same way as simple
cordons.

As for varieties with long shoots, every year one growth should be trained
in to produce fruit, and another should be cut down to two eyes in order to
secure successional shoots. ‘This cultivation produces much fruit, but vigorous
vines are necessary ; and to secure them much manuring is needed.

Of all these forms the palmate is by far the most practical.

Grapes for the table are furnished chiefly from the southern regions, and

ANOTHER METHOD OF FORMING THE T FOR THE THOMERY FORM OF VINE TRAINING

By pinching the shoot a little below the T and training two growths from there.

next from the neighbourhood of Paris, especially from the districts of Thomery,
Conflans, &c.

THINNING the grapes, which consists of removing with the scissors the inner
berries, and of thinning those which are too close together, takes place at the
end of June, and continues till mid-July. It serves to hasten the ripening, to
increase the size of the individual berries, and to make their preservation easier.

GaTHERING should be done in dry rather than wet weather. Bunches of
dried grapes can be preserved by placing them upon racks, or by suspending
them. Bunches of fresh grapes can be kept by inserting the stems in flasks of
fresh water, with a little charcoal in it to prevent decomposition. In this case
the grapes must be gathered with a sufficient length of shoot to fix them in
the flasks and to enable them to draw up moisture. Double partition walls in
fruit-rooms are even more necessary for grapes than for apples and pears. It is
a good thing to burn a very little sulphur now and then to lessen the atmos-
pheric moisture.

FRUIT CULTURE IN FRANCE 383

Tue Besr VARIETIES FOR OPEN-AIR CULTURE

CHASSELAS BLANC RoyaL.—JSerry rather larger than Chasselas Doré, and less
coloured ; excellent quality; mid-season.

CHASSELAS DORE DE FONTAINEBLEAU.—Vigorous, fertile; soo¢s rather stout, long,
yellow ; dunches large, elongated ; Jerry large, short stalk ; séé# transparent, amber and
plum- -coloured ; excellent quality ; mid-season.

CHASSELAS HAatTiIF DE MONTAUBAN.—Larger than Chasselas Doré, but amber
white ; excellent quality ; mid-season.

CHASSELAS RosE (Chasselas Rose Royal).—Vigorous, very fertile ; skoo¢s rather long,
thick, brown; dznch medium, elongated, shouldered, not compact; berry medium size,
round ; skin pink ; excellent quality ; mid-season.

CHASSELAS ROSE SUPERIEUR.—Berry medium sized, excellent; mid-season.

CHASSELAS VIBERT. —JBerry rather large, white ; excellent ; mid-season.

Duc DE MALAKOFF.—Not very vigorous, fairly fertile ; bunch medium, shouldered,
not well filled; derry large, round; s¢a/# strong, short ; s#i2 golden white ; excellent ;
mid-season.

FOSTER’S WHITE SEEDLING.—Vigorous, very fertile ; é«ch medium or large,
shouldered, rather compact ; dev7y under medium size ; sz greenish white and yellow ;
excellent ; ‘mid-season.

FRANKENTHAL.—Moderately vigorous, fertile ; shoots thick, strong, deep yellow ;
bunch very large, elongated, shouldered ; derry very large, round; s¢a/é rather long,
beautiful violet black ; excellent; late.

MADELINE NOIRE.—Very vigorous, fertile ; duck not very compact; berry small,
elliptical ; sézz violet black ; early.

Muscat PRECOCE DE SAUMUR.—Fertile ; shoots rather short, slender; bunch
small, cylindrical ; der~y small, spherical ; sta/é short, thin ; skin golden yellow ; early.

Noir p’ESPAGNE. Fertile ; bunch \arge, shouldered, rather compact ; berry large,
spherical, deep black ; mid-season.

PARC DE VERSAILLES (Schaous).—Vigorous, very fertile; dach under medium size,
oblong, compact; sta/z thick and short; devry greenish white and golden, rather large,
ovoid; late.

PRECOCE MALINGRE. —Fairly vigorous, very fertile; ch medium, cylindrical,
shouldered, very compact; Jerry medium or small, ovoid ; s¢a/é slender; séim greenish
yellow or golden; early.

CLASSIFICATION ACCORDING TO TIME OF RIPENING

Early
Chasselas Blanc Royal Précoce de Saumur
Madeline Noire » Malingre
Mid-season
Chasselas Doré de Fontainebleau Chasselas Hatif de Montauban
5 Rose Royal Fosters White Seedling
“ Rose Supérieur Noir d’Espagne
3 Vibert
Late

Frankenthal, Duc de Malakoff, Parc de Versailles

CHAPTER XXX

FRUIT CULTURE IN THE CHANNEL ISLANDS

By A CHANNEL ISLAND GROWER

Fruir culture in the Channel Islands has been of long and steady growth,
although at times its development has been startlingly rapid. In the remote
past the culture of apples for cider, largely for export, was an important item
with the Channel Island farmer. ‘This has been steadily declining, cider
orchards in more recent times having been ruthlessly cut down, and the land
cleared for early potato culture. This for a time certainly held out better
prospects, but, in its turn, has changed for the worse. Many who read of
the vast export of fruit, vegetables, and flowers from these islands are surprised
at its volume, and visitors who witness the long stream of carts and vans laden
with produce wending their way to the quays are astonished that such little
patches of land, well and carefully cultivated, can send so much to the mainland
markets, Nearly every Channel Islander is, more or less, born with a taste for
soil cultivation, and takes a most intelligent interest in the industry of the
islands. ‘This has proved to be to their great advantage ; and we believe if a
like spirit existed in England and Ireland, and if such a spirit were encouraged,
England would be better supplied with home produce than she is at present,
and considerably less money by many millions would annually be paid for
foreign produce.

THE FIG

Figs have always been largely and well grown in the Channel Islands, in
the first instance, of course, in the open air, before we exported fruit. In those
days large trees were trained flat over wooden framework, varying in height
from 4 feet at the front to 6 feet at the back. Many of these trees are still
grown for supplying fruit in its natural season, When forcing came into
favour many of these large trees were covered with glass, and in some instances
pipes and boilers were employed. The increase of profit was of course very
great, but many of the trees so treated died after a few years. This no doubt
was largely caused by lack of water during the winter and early months of the
year. A few large trees which would now be valued were actually cut out
owing to prices falling for a time.

Some old trees under glass, however, are still doing well. But the new
grower now generally grows pot plants, or small trees planted on the floor and
trained over the roof. In the latter case root-pruning is found to have excellent

effect in restricting excess of vigour. Generally speaking, the crop may be
"384

FRUIT CULTURE IN THE CHANNEL ISLANDS 385

looked upon as profitable. Figs are still not generally liked, however, so that
it would probably be easy to glut the market. It certainly would not be wise
for a grower to go in too largely for fig culture. Many varieties have been
tried, but Brown Turkey alone appears to meet with general favour. It is found
to be much the most reliable and productive.

THE GRAPE

It is safe to say that the grape introduced the Channel Islands as a fruit-
growing district to the English markets, and it illustrates in a striking manner
how pregnant with big results are sometimes those matters which appear of
small importance at the moment. In a little book entitled “Culture of the
Vine under Glass,” by W. A. Crousaz, published in Guernsey in 1873, the
last chapter is called “Remarks on Exportation.” Mr. Crousaz was really
the father of the fruit-growing industry as far as the Channel Islands are con-
cerned, for it was he who, seeing grapes fit for the London market, set about
surmounting the difficulties of delivering them. Had it not been for him the
progress of the industry would at least have been delayed years. We have
gathered the following facts from Mr. Crousaz’s book,

INCEPTION OF THE INDUstRY.—About 1847 a small quantity of grapes was
sent to Covent Garden Market. In the same year a range of houses with
boilers and pipes was erected as a speculation. The third season after planting
(1850) the crop was about five hundred pounds. But the principal exporter
declined to purchase, the quantity being too large, and further declared such a
crop could not be disposed of at any price. The only alternative was to sell in
the local market, but this proved a failure. So, after all, it was decided to try
Covent Garden. But the mail-boat’s agent declined to enter these goods, as the
mails and passengers alone were allowed, and not cargo. ‘The exporter deter-
mined that the grapes should be sent whatever the consequences might be, and
a boat was hired, the fruit stowed beneath the seats, and then, rowing to the
steam-packet, the packages of grapes were quietly handed over the side of the
ship and placed out of sight while the crew were busily engaged with passengers’
luggage and mail-bags. But each returning mail-boat brought strict orders that
fruit should not be shipped unless cleared through the Customs. ‘This was
overcome by providing a printed form which had to be signed by the Lieutenant-
Governor and a magistrate of the Royal Court (fee 2s. 6d.), and when complete
taken to the Custom-House officials. It is disappointing to read that after so
much determination the season closed with a loss, and as to prices Mr. Crousaz
says, “arrived at Covent Garden, the fruit realised very little money, and that
little was a long time coming.” The season 1851 yielded a heavier crop ;
Covent Garden was again resorted to, and the same ordeal gone through, but
prices were not remunerative.

In 1852 still finer crops were produced, and Covent Garden prices were
rather better. So, when the forced crops were disposed of and cold-house grapes
were ripe, growers, who hitherto had not known how to turn theirs into cash,
were advised to try London. Mr, Crousaz here points out that only the choicest

2 8B

386 THE FRUIT GARDEN

portion of the crop was exported, the result being that the demand for Guernsey
grapes increased, and nearly 3 tons were exported in 1855. So, we see,
selection and grading were not overlooked in those days, though some growers
of the present foolishly treat these matters with contempt. In 1857 4 tons
were sent; in 1858, 4} tons, with good prices for first-class fruit; in 1859,
6 tons; and in 1860, 7 tons were sent, and the demand for good grapes had
increased. ‘This justified the erection of more greenhouses. In 1861, g tons,
and in the following year 12 tons, were shipped, with steady prices for good
fruit. In 1863 a fair quantity was grown, but owing to shippers and salesmen
having so increased, the market was occasionally glutted, and prices were conse-
quently less. The regulating of the market was now out of the question. It
was feared this state of things would diminish the value of the fruit; so the
original exporter visited Paris, hoping to find a market there, but the prices
would not have been remunerative, and the quantities required were too insig-
nificant to justify the attempt.

ForMEeR Quantities. —In 1864 the quantity sent was 12 tons, and,
other fruit being scarce, steady prices were obtained. In 1865 the prices were
not so good, good grapes selling at od. per |b., the depreciation being attributed
to glutted markets. In 1866 about 16 tons were sent, good prices being
realised from the commencement of the season, selling at 1s. 6d. to 2s. per lb.
These prices continued till the month of August, and, owing to scarcity of
other good fruit, prices were maintained throughout the season.

In 1867 the season opened well, but owing to an over-supply the prices
did not hold firm. In many instances good grapes, after remaining some days
on hand, were sold for 6d. and 8d. per |b. Mr. Crousaz here quotes a market
report, which states “that from the number of houses recently built and in
course of construction, the quantity of grapes will considerably increase and prices
probably fall; and that as the English, and particularly the Scotch, are developing
this branch of fruit culture to a large extent, we may reasonably suppose many
towns will cease drawing their supplies from London.”

The total quantities exported after 1867 are not given, but referring to the
season 1871 it is stated that the quantity sold by one salesman was 214 tons,
independently of what was sold elsewhere. In 1872 the prices were very satis-
factory. Early cold-house grapes obtained 1s. gd. to 2s. per lb., choice fruit
even higher. Grapes of inferior quality made as much as the greater part of
the best had done in 1871. The crop, however, was much lighter, as 216
houses only produced 164 tons, whereas 200 houses the previous season pro-
duced 214 tons. Since the publishing of Mr. Crousaz’s book, grape culture has
gone ahead; but it is now impossible to know the quantity exported, as the
growers nearly all consign directly to the British markets.

Vine Borpers.—The vines in the Channel Islands were formerly nearly
all in outside borders. Muscats and all others were treated so. Now, how-
ever, many are planted in inside borders. Some houses have arched walls so
as to allow a free passage for the roots to either inside or outside borders,
but the majority are still outside. When grapes were first cultivated for
market, and since, borders in many cases were much too deep. Then, later,

FRUIT CULTURE IN THE CHANNEL ISLANDS 387

many growers troubled little how the border was made ; but now more care is
taken in this matter, and nearly all methcds have been tried. The English
horticultural press has been closely read by the local grower, and he has tested
nearly everything suggested, from carrion to hot-water pipes in the border ;
both of these he has long since abandoned.

Vineries.—Formerly lean-to houses were considered best, but now large
span-roofed houses are the most in favour. A larger area of land can thus be
covered at less expense than with the lean-to. Considerable expense in wall
building is thus avoided. Of course, more piping and heavier firing are required,
for the solid walls of the lean-to keep warmth better in cold wintry weather.

VarieTigs.—Nearly all new varieties have been tried as they appeared.
The majority, however, have proved failures so far as suitability to market
culture is concerned. The following may be taken to represent the standard
sorts grown in the Islands :—Black Hambro’, Muscat of Alexandria, Black
Alicante, Gros Colmar, Gros Marec, Appley Towers, and Canon Hall Muscat.
This last is not yet largely grown, but many good growers consider the local
conditions as being peculiarly suited to this variety, and hold that, space for
space, it will be among the most profitable grapes. If the hope is borne
out by results, there is no doubt Canon Hall will find plenty of growers
ready to take up its culture. At present the majority view it somewhat as a
“ will-o’-the-wisp variety.”

Piantinc.—Formerly the canes were planted much too thickly (in some
cases 15 inches apart), with the natural result that the fruit grown was of
poor quality, and as the vines aged so the quality was worse. Now, how-
ever, in the majority of cases this evil has been corrected ; more space is afforded
each cane, although many say that more room still is required. But the grower
has to consider this with the present prices of grapes. He must have a fair
crop of grapes or the vinery will not pay ; indeed, the prices of inferior grades
have already fallen so low that they leave no profit to the producer, so that in
many cases the vines have been cut out and the houses turned over to tomato
culture. This winter (1902) many more vineries were about to undergo the
same treatment. Without doubt this is a wise course as far as the grower is
concerned, for the only use of inferior grapes is that they occasionally have
been the means of introducing a new retailing customer, who may ultimately
become a buyer of the best article. Though this is poor satisfaction to the
grower of inferior grapes, it will be beneficial if it helps to increase the retail
market.

THE MELON

The cultivation of melons for market purposes was, we believe, practi-
cally introduced into the Channel Islands by Mr. James Davis, at one time
gardener to the Rev. J. Watson, at La Favorita, St. Martin’s, Guernsey. At
the commencement of this new branch of the industry, small houses with
sharp pitched roofs and plenty of piping were employed, and the results were
highly satisfactory to the grower. As time went on, larger span-roofed houses
were planted with melons, and the plants trained up trellises almost as with

388 THE FRUIT GARDEN

tomatoes. While small houses had a good arrangement for bottom heat, the
larger spans had no such provision. Heavy crops were produced by either
system ; for very early gathering the small house is better. Melonsare still largely
grown, and in many instances very profitably, though now the profits are less
than formerly. ‘The varieties grown are several, and many new ones are tried,
but most are the same as those first grown by Mr. Davis, without doubt a
selected form of the old Golden Perfection.

In the years following the introduction of melon culture for market, a good
profit could be relied upon. Prices were high and very steady, but as more
growers began the prices commenced to fall, and it is now not unusual to hear
of a melon crop being a failure so far as profits are concerned.

When melons were first started many growers used to allow one plant to
cover a good roof space by taking several shoots from it. This is still
favoured by some, but the majority now prefer single or double-stemmed plants
with the idea of getting a small number of fruits on each, and gathering
a crop rapidly so as to allow time for a second planting. In favour of the
extension system it is argued that the greater energy of the plant promises
better “setting,” and that if the plants remain healthy their fruiting season is
longer ; but the risk is that the stem may canker at the soil level, whereas with
the single or double leader system the risk is much less, as the life of the plant
is only half as long. Anything which tends to reduce the risk in a melon crop
is looked upon with favour by the Channel Islanders, as the margin of profit
is very different now to the days when a good melon would make five to eight
shillings at the end of June, as was the case eighteen or twenty years ago.
Those were, of course, the early days of melon culture in the Channel Islands.

PEACHES AND NECTARINES

Peaches and nectarines were soon taken in hand by the grower when the
fruit-growing industry was in its early stages. It was at first thought the peach
might be made to yield fruit while the vines were growing. Naturally, it
was planted against the back walls, for in those days the span-roof was not in
such favour as it is to-day. Peaches and nectarines were almost entirely grown
on the single cordon system—hard pinched in summer, and strictly kept as
cordons. But such culture was not a great success, consequently many growers
allowed more growth, and this very naturally led them on to the extension
system. To-day, in most instances, fan-trained trees are the most approved,
and rightly so, for without doubt their yield is greater and more reliable, and
the life of the trees longer.

Although peach and nectarine culture was commenced so early in the
Channel Islands it has, to a very large degree, diminished. This diminution
largely arose from the difficulty the grower experienced in placing his fruit on
the British markets in a sound condition, All methods of packing were tried,
but the uncertainty of safe and sound arrival still existed, and the culture con-
siderably decreased. We do not mean that none were grown, but it got less
popular, and would very probably have disappeared had it not been for the

FRUIT CULTURE IN THE CHANNEL ISLANDS 389

introduction of the fruit-packing cases (referred to elsewhere), When these
valuable cases entered the field, the chief trouble so far as safe delivery was
concerned gradually disappeared, with the result that the culture of peaches and
nectarines is yearly more favoured by the Channel Island grower. He has
plenty of sunshine, and a soil suited to the requirements of the peach except
that it contains no lime. (The analysis of Channel Islands soil shows but a
trace of lime; it is, indeed, imported from England for building purposes.)
But except for the absence of lime, the Islands can grow peaches and nectarines
well under glass. We say “under glass,” for, asa matter of fact, they are
very uncertain when grown in the open air. Open-air culture fails probably
from no other cause than that the climate is very unreliable and. varied in the
late winter and early spring months. It is no unusual thing to have such
weather at Christmas which would be welcome at Easter, and vice-versd.
Plant life is thus encouraged at the wrong season. Jersey, however, appears
to be distinctly more favourable to peach and nectarine culture in open air than
Guernsey.

Early varieties are best suited for culture in these Islands; such as are of
good size and highly coloured should be chosen.

THE PEAR

Pears have been for many years, and are still, very well grown in the
Channel Islands.

This is particularly so in Jersey, where the culture has of late received much
more attention than in Guernsey. Formerly the variety Chaumontel was
extensively grown in the latter island, but now many walls that formerly were
devoted to pears have greenhouses against them and the pear trees have
disappeared.

From Jersey, however, large quantities of good pears find their way to
England. A fairly large collection is cultivated, but such sorts as Williams’,
Chaumontel, and Doyenné du Comice, are those usually grown for market.
The production of these fruits will probably increase as time goes on, for
without doubt that excellent variety, Doyenné du Comice, can be given all it
requires in the Channel Islands.

THE TOMATO

The tomato has played certainly the most important part in the develop-
ment of fruit culture in the Channel Islands. It did not initiate the industry,
it is true, but when growers started with the object in view of growing grapes
only for the English markets, they knew they would have to wait two or three
years before they could hope for any material benefit from their outlay.

Potatoes were planted on the floors of the houses, and frequently gave very
satisfactory returns—from Is, to 2s. 6d. per lb. being realised. But this crop
had one great drawback—the houses being unheated, scarcely any provision
could be made against frost, which frequently destroyed the plants. Some

390 THE FRUIT GARDEN

growers used large oil lamps distributed over the house, but the crop was not
even then quite safe. This went on for some years, when it occurred to some
growers to try another ground crop on the floors of their houses (after the
potatoes were dug), during the two or three years before the vines were
established. Now the only crop likely to succeed was the tomato, And it
was found that a very good return could be obtained within a few months of
having built a glass-house. The returns, indeed, were so remarkably good that
it became easy, while prices for tomatoes ruled high, to start a range of glass-
houses for market purposes with comparatively little actual capital.

Buyinc Lanp.—It frequently happened that the land could be bought in
what are locally called Wheat-rents or Quarters. “The wheat-rent is a system
in the Channel Islands which answers much the same purpose as the mortgage
does in England. It represents a capital value of {20 sterling secured on the
property, and the annual payment of {1 by the debtor. But so long as this
annual charge is paid the wheat-rent holder cannot demand repayment of this
capital from the owner of the land. If he wishes to realise his wheat-rent, he
may offer it to the landowner, or he may sell his security to any other buyer.
Of course, the prices asked for land under such conditions and with such
prospects were very high in comparison with the price such land could yield
from ordinary agricultural treatment. But as the prospective small grower would
only require an acre or so, he was not daunted by having to pay, say, double
its agricultural value: he even frequently paid more than double ; so that,
supposing its agricultural letting value was 7, 10s. an acre per annum, he
would, by buying in wheat-rent, be willing to undertake to pay £15 per annum
in perpetuity, but he really often paid (20. The quantity of land he required
was so little that he deemed himself safe in paying for the accommodation.

Buitpinc.—Having secured the land, then came the question of building
houses. ‘The difficulty, however, was not serious if the grower was a man
considered to be reliable. “Timber merchants were at hand ready to take some
risk, and the glass merchant as well, with the result that the grower frequently
found himself selling his tomatoes even before he had paid the cost of in-
stalling himself as a grower. While prices were high the grower was on pretty
sure ground; and many growers of to-day can trace their beginnings and final
good results to taking advantage at the right moment of the opportunities which
then occurred,

ApventT oF DiszaszE.—Tomatoes were in the first days of their culture
always planted on the floors of the houses, and the results were all that could be
wished ; but as time went on, and this crop continued to show good profits,
many houses were built for tomato-growing only. This meant the same crop
year after year in the same soil, with the result that frequently the plants became
diseased, and very uncertain and unsatisfactory were the returns. Removing
the surface soil and replacing with fresh soil were tried, and in many cases proved
successful, but this was not a certain cure. And in time the soil became a
perfect hotbed of disease. Of course, some soils gave out sooner than others.
‘That which was high and well-drained usually broke down, especially if allowed
to become dust-dry in winter, sooner than lower lying land, which is usually

‘SGNP TSI THNNFHO FHL NI AYANIA LAMUFM VP

“TOON ASNOTTI
VWHAO GHNIPTL STAINL ONIMOHS 'SANPTSI TANNVHO HILL NI TNQLTAD OL

FRUIT CULTURE IN THE CHANNEL ISLANDS 391

richer in organic matter and less likely to get dry during the winter months.
Excellent crops are frequently grown in soil which is almost pure sand, and this
remains healthy longer than might be expected, especially if well watered in
the winter.

Por Currure.—The grower had to practise some other method, and tried
pot culture. Pots of 8 inches or 12 inches diameter were used. As a result he
has very materially benefited the output. Of course, fresh soil is used for potting
purposes, and this is well prepared during the previous season by frequent
turnings. But the Channel Island grower has not the broad acres of England
at his command for fresh loam, so he has to use largely the same soil over again
mixed with what fresh material he can obtain. He gives it a certain period of
rest in the open air, mixing with it well-decayed farmyard and artificial manures.

VaRIETIES.—As to the sorts of tomatoes grown or tried, it is really almost a
complete list of the numerous varieties introduced. And it is very doubtful
whether any sort is introduced without being soon after tried and tested by the
Channel Island grower. The old large red, selections from Chemin Rouge, Up-to-
Date, Stirling Castle, Sutton’s A-1, Comet, Winter Beauty, Lawrenson’s No. 3,
Holmes’ Supreme, Bonnie Dundee, Sarnian, Lister’s Prolific, Jersey Industry, 8c. 3 in
fact a very complete list, added to which, of course, local selections. But for very
early work the old large red meets with very general approval. We find that
carefully selected forms of this variety set more freely than most of the smooth
varieties. And this we insist on, in spite of the salesmen continually pointing
out that smooths are most in demand. The grower finds that a heavy crop of
selected old reds pays him better than a light crop of smooths, though the latter
may sell at a penny or two more per pound. This obtains early in the season,
when the supply is below the demand. But when the tables turn, and the
buyers are able to be choosers, then the Channel Island grower has to leave
his old friend the corrugated and take to the smooth, in one variety or the
other.

WHEN To Prant.—Another trouble the grower has yearly to deal with is
when to start his tomato crop. If the fires are started early, there may be a
long spell of wintry weather and little sunshine. This means hard firing, burn-
ing expensive coal for plants which grow and grow, and fill the house with
foliage, but very little fruit. In fact, we have heard of cases where plants
had to be rooted out, and a fresh start made with new plants. If, on
the other hand, he starts late, and it happens that the summer following
suits tomato culture in the open air, then he finds his prices so low that the
balance in his favour is almost nil. As it is impossible to tell what the coming
season will be, the grower is quite helpless, having no guidance afforded him by
past experience on this particular point. For instance, the year 1901 so suited
open-air tomatoes that the prices fell to ruinous figures, and the late-started
houses suffered considerably by the abundance of the open-air crop; whereas
the summer of 1902 was disastrous for the open-air fruits. Consequently the
prices were exceptionally good, and the growers who started late did well.
Where it is decided to start the tomato crop comparatively late, the grower is
able to use his house either for peas or beans, and secure a crop before planting

392 THE FRUIT GARDEN

tomatoes. The grower who forces hard is not able to do this. But we repeat
that the advantage of either system rests entirely with the character of the
summer which follows. So if the grower has a fair-sized establishment, he
usually plants part under one system and part under the other, and this is by
far the safest plan.

OTHER CROPS

The Channel Island market-grower, though he goes in most strongly for
fruit and vegetables in demand on the British markets, will generally be found
to have some other crop under his care, such as flowers. “These are found to
bring in money in the dull season when there is no fruit for sale. This season
is from the late autumn to winter and early spring. He therefore grows
arum lilies, freesias, narcissi, and some foliage plants, as asparagus, and in some
instances smilax, which, under good culture, may be regarded as a profitable
plant. Smilax in pots is frequently made to follow an early tomato crop.

ARUM LiLIEs are also largely grown to follow the tomatoes. Formerly
very good profits were made with this plant, but now many more growers have
taken up the culture, and the prices are lower and the profits smaller. Some
growers approve the drying-off system, giving the plants a rest, while others
prefer to keep the plants growing the whole season through. But even in the
latter case the plants do receive a rest, though it be as a severe check, for, when
the spring comes and prices fall, the plants are turned out into the open air
while in flower and bud. It is no unusual sight to see such lots standing out-
side the greenhouses making a strong effort to adapt themselves to circum-
stances. It is probably due to this treatment that we hear frequent complaints
of the scarcity of blooms the season following.

Freestas are well and largely grown; for forcing purposes they are usually
planted in wooden boxes or square earthenware pans. They require to be
planted early in the summer, placed outside, and induced to start so as to secure
short, broad foliage by the autumn. When they are well developed they are
placed under glass, and after a week or two given slight heat. They can thus
be had in bloom early in the new year. Freesias can also be planted near the
front lights of lean-to and span-roof greenhouses beneath the vines, and if care
is taken with the watering they bloom well.

Narcisst are chiefly grown in boxes, planted early in the summer, kept
outside till thoroughly well rooted, then placed under glass and forced according
to circumstances. This is a branch of flower culture which the Channel
Island grower will probably increase considerably in the near future.

SPANISH IRISES are also grown very largely ; some are boxed and forced,
others are planted on the floors, mostly of cold (é.e. unheated) grape-houses.
The profits on irises are very variable. The essential thing is to have distinct
colours and bulbs which will yield a large percentage of flowers, otherwise a
loss is certain.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS of varieties suited to market purposes are also largely
grown, some entirely in the open air; others in the open are lifted in the

FRUIT CULTURE IN THE CHANNEL ISLANDS 393

autumn, while some are grown in pots. The last mode of culture is not largely
followed, growing in pots necessitates a good deal of labour in the summer
months, when the grower has his hands full enough.

OrcuIDs are receiving consideration at the hands of some Channel Island
growers. Cypripedium insigne is most largely grown, but some have a fairly
representative collection suited to cut-flower trade.

FRUIT CASES

When fruit-growing for market commenced, and long afterwards, the great

difficulty that faced the grower when he had his fruit ready for market was the
sea passage to Southampton or Weymouth, in addition to the railway journey.
After seeing the way in which the produce was hurled into the hold of the
steamer, to suppose that after such treatment the fruit could arrive at its
destination other than seriously blemished would be absurd. Then the railway
companies had a uniform charge of so much per basket of grapes, heavy or
light. T'wo shillings each was the price, and whether the basket contained
7 lbs. or 27 lbs., it was always 2s., with, we believe, a maximum limit of 28 lbs.
It is safe to say that had these conditions continued till now, Channel Island
grape-growing would almost have disappeared. It was long felt that some
better system was urgently required to save the situation, and ultimately Mr.
J. H. Parsons, of Guernsey, invented large fruit cases, wherein could be placed
a number of shallow baskets containing choice fruit, freshly gathered, and con-
veyed to London undisturbed. To this invention may safely be credited the
success of the Channel Island grape grower. He now places his goods in the
hands of the local forwarding agents in open baskets, and he knows they have
every possible chance of arriving in practically the same condition as he left
them. So good an idea naturally produced many imitations, with the result
that to-day there are many fruit cases of a somewhat similar type. “They are,
however, no longer restricted to grapes, but are used for all kinds of choice
produce.

FUEL

The fuel consumed in the Islands for cultural purposes is a very serious
item. The grower is often called upon to pay exceedingly high prices for his
anthracite coal.

This evil has grown during the last few years. As to the Welsh coal
prices have gone up. A few years ago it could be bought free on the quays
at 16s. 8d. to 18s. per ton, whereas now it occasionally runs up to 35s. and
even higher prices, especially in Guernsey where the local harbour dues and
wharfage are higher than in Jersey. In the former island the wharfage is
2s. 6d. per ton, which all growers consider an unfair tax. For several years
past the Guernsey Growers’ Association have worked diligently to secure a
change in this matter. And though up to now they have received no actual
benefit, we find there is a growing consensus of opinion among the governing

394 THE FRUIT GARDEN

bodies of the island and the public in general that it is not wise to continue to
burden so heavily this great industry.

For the wider view of the fruit-growing industry taken by the governing
bodies thanks are due to the local Growers’ Association, and it is likely that
in the near future some material relief will be afforded. ‘This certainly would
be most welcome, as of late the grower has had an additional burden by having
to pay the one shilling duty on all coal exported from Great Britain.

The local growers did hope they would have been exempt from this tax ;
the home authorities were approached, but the claim was disallowed. This
additional tax still further justifies the grower’s plea for relief. “The cost of
production is gradually increasing, without any promise of better prospects.
The market value of the produce is gradually but surely declining, and the
grower views with apprehension the time in the near future when his present
margin of profit may be entirely swept away, and give place to a balance on the
wrong side. ‘The situation is certainly one which demands most serious and
generous consideration.

PROSPECTS

Twenty years or so ago quite a number of limited liability companies were
floated, and in the majority of cases were sore disappointments to the unfortunate
shareholders, and with very few exceptions failed to redeem anything like the
promises of the prospectus. Fruit-growing for market in the Channel Islands,
as elsewhere, depends upon the grower’s personal attention. ‘These islands are
particularly the field of the working grower, The man who can and does
devote all his time, thought, and energy to the work will probably succeed.
But the man who decides to enter upon a venture as a fruit-grower here, and
thinks he can be industrious and energetic by proxy will experience failure and
disappointment, and the disappointment may not be the most serious part of
the venture.

The French have a proverb which says, “It is the master’s eye that
fattens the ox,” and by deduction it is prudent advice to say, that unless the
master has an eye and is willing to use it, he had better give up the idea of
fattening the ox. If you make up your mind to start fruit-growing in the
Channel Islands, you must at the same time make up your mind to work your-
self, and not by proxy.

We have no desire to daunt any one whc is prepared to be thorough and
honest with himself, but the evidence of failure through lack of these qualities
is so abundant in the Islands, that we cannot refrain from giving expression to
the above facts. A little capital, plenty of energy and diligence, may bring
success, but much money without the diligence and application of the pro-
prietor is in imminent danger of being lost. Insolvency is not a condition
unknown among the Channel Island fruit-growers ; many instances exist where
men have signally failed through no other apparent cause than the lack of those
qualities which are necessary to make the business a success. It is safe to say,
that unless the grower can depend upon himself he had better by far abandon

VINERY.

(L ISLAND

A CHANNEI

“SGNFTUSI TANNVHO FHL NI NMOUD AUV SNOTAM AION

FRUIT CULTURE IN THE CHANNEL ISLANDS — 395

the idea of fruit-growing in these Islands. If the past has shown many cases
of failure it is quite certain that the future, and the near future, will pro-
duce even more ; for as the margin of profit declines so will weak places show
themselves in greater numbers. The industry now has passed its golden days,
more than ever is caution required by those who contemplate putting money
and time into it. All that can be said of it now is that it offers a good living
to the grower who is willing to work.

As a further aid to the identification of
hardy fruits, it is hoped that the following
outline drawings will prove useful. Those
of Apples, Pears, Plums, Cherries, and
Gooseberries have been prepared from
orchard-grown fruits, and do not there-
fore represent the size to which the same
varieties will attain when cultivated in rich
garden soil; together with the drawings
of Peaches, Nectarines, Strawberries, &c.,
they may be taken to show the actual size
of the fruits when given ordinary culture.
Unless it is otherwise stated, these outline
drawings are the exact size of the fruits
from which they were made.

Alfriston

398

APPLES

q
Allington Pippin

Beauty of Bath

399

APPLES

Annie Elizabeth

Baumann's Red Winter Reinette

400 APPLES

Belle Pontoise

APPLES

401

402 APPLES

Bramley’s Seedling

Brownlee’s Russet

APPLES

404.

JOAITY,P Wnoy ayprayed

adoogig adnoy ayytayeg

405

APPLES

ureulreag sewysiyy

Japuom, ProyswpEyD

uiddig ye

APPLES

Claygate Pearmain

Cockle’s Pippin’

Cornish Gilliflower

APPLES

407

Cox’s Orange Pippin

D’Arcy Spice

408

APPLES

Duke of Devonshire

409

APPLES

Surpaag oyrauryoq

yssny juowas ay

jopuexaly rordwq

APPLES

410

uiddrg s,wieay

UI[PI2S yepIVIG s,eustooses)

¢

APPLES

411

APPLES

APPLES 413

Hereford Crimson Queening

414 APPLES

Hormead Pearmain

Hubbard’s Pearmain Irish Peach

APPLES

415

APPLES

416

uiddig ay s,3unyt

sujddig ay3 jo Bury

Ayunoy surydwoy, jo 3uty

APPLES

Lady Henniker

Lane’s Prince Albert -

417

Lady Sudeley

418

APPLES

Lord Derby

419

APPLES

Lord Suffield

4.20 APPLES

Mannington’s Pearmain

Meére de Ménage

APPLES 1

Mother Apple

Mr. Gladstone

Mrs. Phillimore

422 APPLES

Newton Wonder

Norman’s Pippin

APPLES

423

Old Winter Nonpareil

Peasgood’s Nonesuch

424 APPLES —

Red Juneating

APPLES ia

Ribston Pippin

Rosemary Russet

Ross Nonpareil

426

APPLES

Graham’s Royal Jubilee

APPLES 427

Sandringham

APPLES

428

[teredsueg

ujddig spunwpg 4S

rexeduoyy 39] 789S

429

APPLES

430 APPLES

Striped Beaufin

431

APPLES

uiddig s9ung

usand ayy

urddig uapjoy szauung

432

APPLES

433

434

APPLES

White Nonpareil

APPLES 435

White Transparent

Winter Queening

436

APPLES

CHERRIES 437

Bigarreau de Mezel fi Belle d'Orléans

Cleveland Bigarreau

Black Tartarian

Black Eagle

Frogmore Early Bigarreau

Early Rivers

Florence Heart—4 size Elton Heart

438 CHERRIES

Emperor Francis

Géant de Hedelfingen

Kentish Bigarreau

—_

Napoléon Bigarreau

Kentish Red

May Duke

Nouvelle Royale

Old Black Heart

CHERRIES 439

Royal Duke Werder’s Black
Heart—4 size

Waterloo
The Noble

St. Margaret’s

4460 FIGS

Bourjasotte Grise Malta

Osborn’s Prolific Negro Largo

441

Violette Sepor

White Ischia

White Marseilles

442 SMALL-FRUITED GOOSEBERRIES

ie

Green Hedgehog Cheshire Lass (white) Red Champagne

Warrington (red) Yellow Champagne

Bright Venus (white, 4 size) Yellow Ball Crown Bob (red, 4 size,
Large-fruited)

LARGE-FRUITED GOOSEBERRIES 443

Beauty (red, 4 size) Bobby (red, 4 size)

Lord Derby (red, 4 size) Napoleon the Great (red, 4 size) Lancashire Lad (red, 4 size)

Rifleman (red, 4 size) Smith’s Nonpareil (white, 4 size) Careless (white, 4 size)

Lady Leicester (white, } size) Lancer (white, 4 size) Alma (white, 4 size)

ree LARGE-FRUITED GOOSEBERRIES

Criterion (yellow, 4 size) High Sheriff (yellow, }size)
@ 1
Telegraph (green) Langley Beauty (yellow)

)

Leader (yellow, 4 size) Leveller (yellow, 4 size)

GRAPES 44.5

OOC

Alicante Appley Towers Black Hamburgh Buckland Sweetwater
Duke of Buccleuch Foster’s Seedling Gros Colmar Gros Maroc
:
Lady Downe’s Seedling Madresfield Court Mrs. Pince Muscat of Alexandria

Muscat Hamburgh White Tokay

446

MEDLARS

Dutch Medlar

Royal Medlar

NECTARINES 447

Cardinal Early Rivers

Ge

Humboldt Lord Napier

448 NECTARINES

Newton Pineapple

Rivers’ Orange Victoria

PEACHES 449

Alexandra Noblesse

Barrington

Bellegarde

450 PEACHES

Condor

Crimson Galande

Early Alfred

PEACHES 451

Grosse Mignonne

Hale’s Early

Late Devonian

452 PEACHES

Nectarine Peach

Prince of Wales

PEACHES Pe

: ‘Princess of Wales

Rivers’ Early York

454. PEACHES

Sea Eagle

Stirling Castle

PEACHES 455

CDE

Violette HAtive Waterloo

Walburton Admirable

456 PEARS

Aspasie Aucourt

Beacon Bergamotte Esperen

458 PEARS

Beurré de Jonghe

Beurré d’Amanlis

Beurré Diel

PEARS ae

Beurré Giffard
Beurré du Buisson

Beurré Fouqueray

PEARS

460

Jean van Geert

Beurré Mortillet

Beurré Rance

Beurré Superfin

462

PEARS

Catillac

Clapp’s Favourite

PEARS 463

Colmar d’Eté

Conference

Conseiller de la Cour

464 PEARS

Directeur Hardy ()

Doyenné d’Alengon

Doyenné Boussoch

Doyenné d’Eté

PEARS

Dr, Jules Guyot

[|

Doyenné du Comice

465

467

Emile d’Heyst

Fondante d’Automne

Fondante de Thirriot

468 PEARS

Gilogil

Grosse Calebasse

Glou Morceau

PEARS

+69

470 PEARS

Louise Bonne of Jersey

Marie Benoist

Marguerite Marillat

PEARS 47!

Marie Louise d’Uccle

Michaelmas Nelis

Marie Louise

472 PEARS

Nouvelle Fulvie

Passe Crassane

Olivier de Serres

PEARS 473

Petite Marguerite

Pitmaston Duchess

474 PEARS

Princess

Souvenir du Congrés

PEARS 475

Thompson’s

Triomphe de Vienne

476 PEARS

PEARS

477

Vicar of Winkfield

Williams’ Bon Chrétien

478

PEARS

Winter Nelis

Zéphirin Grégoire

“Ty

PLUMS 479

Bryanstone Gage

Belle de Louvain

Comte d’Atthem’s
Gage

Coe’s Golden Drop

Denniston’s Superb Diamond

Grand Duke

PLUMS

ee nail

Early Orléans

Golden Trans-_
parent

Green Gage

Kirke’s

Early Transparent
Gage

Oullin’s
Golden Gage

PLUMS

Late Orange

President

Late Transpa-
rent Gage

Pond’s Seedling

Reine Claude
de Bavay

Primate

Rivers’ Early
Prolific

Sultan The Czar

PLUMS

Victoria
White Magnum
oe

Shepherd’
Burbank Plum pata

Bullace

Shropshire Damson

483

The Myrobelle or Cherry Plum

484.

QUINCE

The Pear-Shaped Quince

485

RASPBERRIES

White Magnum Bonum

Carter’s Prolific (red)

Superlative (red)

486 LOGANBERRY AND WINEBERRY

The Loganberry

The Wineberry

STRAWBERRIES 487

Auguste Nicaise Auguste Nicaise Black Prince

British Queen British Queen Black Prince

Countess Countess

Note.—Strawberries vary greatly in size and shape. While early fruits of some varieties are large and wedge-
shaped, later ones are small and round or oval. The two types are therefore shown.

488 STRAWBERRIES

Dr. Hogg

Dumbarton Castle Dumbarton Castle

Eleanor Eleanor

STRAWBERRIES 489

mY a

Elton Pine Elton Pine
Filbert Pine Filbert Pine

one

Fillbasket Fillbasket

490 STRAWBERRIES

Frogmore Late Pine Frogmore Late Pine

Givon’s Late Prolific Givon’s Late Prolific

Kitley’s Goliath Kitley’s Goliath

, aan |

La Grosse Sucrée

Latest of All

The Laxton

STRAWBERRIES 491

La Grosse Sucrée

‘S

Latest of All

°

The Laxton

492 STRAWBERRIES

%) &

Louis Gautier Louis Gautier
Newton Seedling Newton Seedling

way

President President

STRAWBERRIES

a A

Queen of Denmark Queen of Denmark
7 e
Royal Sovereign Royal Sovereign

ule

St. Joseph St. Joseph

494 STRAWBERRIES

Sir Charles Napier Sir Charles Napier

Sir Joseph Paxton Sir Joseph Paxton

Vicomtesse Héricart de Thury Vicomtesse_Héricart de Thury Trollope’s Victoria

STRAWBERRIES 495

ra a

Waterloo Waterloo

ls

Walluff Walluff

Hautbois Hautbois

496

STRAWBERRIES

Alpine Strawberries

INDEX

AMERICA, fruit culture in, 305

Anona Cherimolia, 208; A, muricata, 208; A. re-
ticulata, 207; A. sguamosa, 207

Apparatus, heating, 301

Apple, the, as a cordon on walls, 6; Paradise
stock, 5; summer pruning, 1; The Custard,
207; The Golden, 213

Apple, Adam's Pearmain, 6; Alexander, 11;
Alfriston, 6; Allen’s Everlasting, 7; Allington
Pippin, 7; Annie Elizabeth, 7; Arundel Pear-
main, 12; Baddow Pippin, 10; Barnack Beauty,
21; Baumann’'s Red Winter Reinette, 7; Beauty
of Bath, 7; Beauty of Kent, 7; Beauty of Wilts,
11; Beefing, 17; Belle Pontoise, 7; Ben's Red,
21; Bess Pool, 18; Bielo Boradawka, 21;
Bismarck, 8; Blenheim Orange, 8; Bow Hill
Pippin, 21; Borovitsky, 10; Braddick’s Non-
pareil, 8; Bramley’s Seedling, 8; Brayton Hall,
13; Brownlee’s Russet, 8; Bunyard’s Jubilee,
16; Byford Wonder, 21; Calville Blanche, 8;
Calville Malingre, 8; Calville Rouge Precoge, 8 ;
Calville Rouge d'Hiver, 9; Canadian Reinette,
15; Cardinal, 9; Carey Pippin, 16; Carse o’
Gowrie, 18; Cellini Pippin, 9; Chas. Ross, 21;
Chelmsford Wonder, 9; Christmas Pearmain,
9; Claygate Pearmain, 9; Clifton Nonesuch,
11; Cockle's Pippin, 9; Cornish Gilliflower, 9;
‘Countess of Warwick, 7; Cowarne Queening,
15; Cox’s Orange Pippin, 10; Cox's Pomona,
io; Crimson Quoining, 12; D’Arcy Spice, 10;
Devonshire Quarrenden, 10; Dr Harvey, 18;
Duchess of Oldenburg, 10 ; Duke of Devonshire,
ro; Dumelow’s Seedling, 18; Early Crofton,
12; Early Red Margaret, 15 ; Early Transparent,
1g; Early Victoria, 22; Ecklinville Seedling,
1o; Egremont Russet, 11; Emperor Alexander,
11; Essex Spice, 10; Fearn’s Pippin, 11; Fish,
D, T., 18; Gascoigne’s Scarlet Seedling, 11;
Gilliflower, 9; Glory of England, 11; Gold Cup
of Tasmania, 11; Gold Medal, 22; Golden
Noble, 11; Golden Reinette, 11; Golden Spire,
11; Golden Winter Pearmain, 13; Grand Duc
de Constantine, 11; Gravenstein, 11; Grenadier
Codlin, 12; Hambling’s Seedling, 12; Hereford
Crimson Queening, 12; Hormead Pearmain,
12; Hubbard’s Pearmain, 12; Irish Giant, 18;
Irish Peach, 12; Jackson's Seedling, 14; James
Grieve, 12; John Peel, 11; Kerry Pippin, 12;
Keswick Codlin, 12; King, 18; King of the
Pippins, 13; King of Tompkin’s County, 13;
King’s Acre Pippin, 13; Lady Henniker, 13;
Lady Sudeley, 13; Lane’s Prince Albert, 13;
Langley Beauty, 22; Loddington Seedling, 17;
London Major, 13; Lord Burghley, 13; Lord
Clyde, 11; Lord Derby, 13; Lord Grosvenor,
13; Lord Hindlip, 22; Lord Suffield, 14;

Mannington’s Pearmain, 14; Margaret, 15;
Margil, 14; Mére de Ménage, 14; Mother
Apple, 14; Mr. Gladstone, 14; Mr. Phillimore,
14; Newton Wonder, 14; Niton House, 17;
Norfolk Beauty, 22; Norman's Pippin, 15;
Normanton Wonder, 18; Northern Greening,
15; Nutmeg, 9; Old Winter Nonpareil, 15;
Ontario, 22; Paroquet, 22; Pearson's Newton
Wonder, 14; Peasgood’s Nonesuch, 15; Peter
the Great, 9; Pike's Pearmain, 13; Pomme
Grise, 15; Pomona, 10; Pott's Seedling, 15;
Prince Albert, 13; Prince Bismarck, 8; Prince
Edward, 22; Prince’s Pippin, 13; Quarantine,
io; Quoining, 12; Red Calville, 9; Red
Juneating, 15; Red Stubbard, 12; Reinette du
Canada, 15; Reinette Dorée, 11; Ribston
Pippin, 15; Rosemary Russet, 16; Ross
Nonpareil, 16; Roundway Magnum Bonum,
16; Royal Jubilee, Graham’s, 16; Royal Late
Cooking, 16; Russet Pearmain, 12; Russian,
to; Sack Apple, 10; Sandringham, 16; St.
Edmund's Pippin, 16; Saltmarsh’s Queen, 17;
Sanspareil, 16; Scarlet Nonpareil, 17; Seaton
House, 17; Seek no Farther, ro; Selina, 9;
Seward of Worcester, 7; South Lincolnshire
Pippin, 7; Spring Ribston, ro; Stirling Castle,
17; Stone’s Apple, 17; Striped Beaufin, 17;
Striped Quarrenden, 10; Sturmer Pippin, 17;
Summer Calville, 8; Summer Golden Pippin,
17; Summer Peach, 10; Sussex Duck’s Bill, 19;
Taylor's Newton Wonder, 14; The Queen, 17;
Tompkins, 13; Tower of Glamis, 18; Venus’
Pippin, 22; Wagener, 18; Walmer Court, 15;
Waltham Abbey Seedling, 18; Warner's King,
18; Waterloo Pippin, 10; Wealthy, 18; Wel-
lington, 18; White Calville, 8; White Nonpareil,
18; White Transparent, 19; Williams’ Favourite,
22; Winter Greening, 15; Winter Pearmain,
13; Winter Quarrenden, 22; Winter Queening,
19; Woodstock Pippin, 8 ; Worcester Pearmain,
19; Yellow Ingestrie, 17

Apples for cordons, 20; for larger gardens, best,
19; for market, profitable, 20; of recent intro-
duction, 21; for small gardens, eight best, 19;
for special purposes, selections of, 19

Apricot, the, 23; insect enemies, 26; planting,
23; protecting the blossom, 27; summer treat-
ment, 26; thinning the fruits, 25; training
and pruning, 24; under glass, 27; varieties.

2

Apricot, Blenheim, 29; Breda, 28; Early Moor-
park, 29; Frogmore Early, 29; Grosse Péche,
29; Hemskerk, 29; Kaisha, 29; Large Early,
29; Large Peach, 29 ; Moorpark, 29 ; New Large
Early, 29; Oullin’s Early Peach, 29; Precoge de
Boulbon, 29; Shipley’s, 29; Syrian, 29

497 21

498 INDEX

BANANA, the, 211

Barberry, the, 30

Bars, water, 303

Blackberries and allied fruits, 30

Blackberry, The Parsley Leaved, 30; Cumberland
Blackcap, 30; Early King, 30; The Lawton, 30;
Lucretia, 30; Whitewash Bramble, 30; Wilson
Junior, 31; Mahdi, the, 31

Boiler, setting the, 303

Boilers and heating apparatus, 301

Bullaces, 160; Black Bullace, 160; Shepherd's
Bullace, 160

Bush fruits, protecting, 47

CHANNEL ISLANDS, fruit culture in the, 384

Checker tree, the, 31

Cherry, the, 32; The Morello, 39; trees on walls,
36; form of tree, 37; planting, 37; protecting
the blossom, 38; protection from birds, 38;
under glass, 39; diseases, 40; insect enemies,
40; varieties for walls and under glass, 41

Cherry, Archduke, 41; Belle de Choisy, 41; Belle
de Montreuil, 45; Belle d'Orléans, 41; Belle de
St. Tronc, 45; Belle Francoville, 45; Bigarreau de
Mezel, 42; Bigarreau deSchreken, 45 ; Bigarreau
Jaboulay, 42; Bigarreau Noir de Guben, 45;
Bigarreau Noir de Schmidt, 45; Black Eagle, 45;
Black Heart, 42; Black Tartarian, 42; Bohemian
Black Bigarreau, 45; Cleveland Bigarreau, 42;
Coe's Carnation, 45; Duchesse de Palluau, 45;
Early Purple Guigne, 45; Early Rivers, 42; Elton
Heart, 42; Empress Eugénie, 45; Early Lyons,
42; Emperor Francis, 42; Flemish Red, 42;
Florence Heart, 43 : Frogmore Early Bigarreau,
43; Géant de Hedelfingen, 43; Governor Wood,
43; Guigne d’Annonay, 43; Guigne de Winkler,
45; Kentish Bigarreau, 43; Kentish Red, 43;
Knight's Early Black, 43; Ludwig's Bigarreau,
43; May Duke, 44; Morello, 44; Napoleon
Bigarreau, 44; Nouvelle Royale, 44; Old Black
Heart, 44; Olivet, 45; Ramon Oliva, 45; Reine
Hortense, 45; Ronald’s Late Duke, 44; Royal
Duke, 44; St. Margaret's, 44; The Noble, 44;
Waterloo, 44; Windsor, 45

Cherries for bush trees, 35; for orchards, 33;
pruning, 33; various positions, 33; varieties,
34; garden, 35; the best, 41

Citron, the, 205

Citrus family, the, 205

Crab, the, 45; Dartmouth, the, 45; Downie, John,
45; Fairy, 45; Mammoth, 455 Orange, the, 45;
Siberian, Cheal’s Scarlet, 45; Siberian, the
Scarlet, 45; Siberian, the Yellow, 45; Trans-
parent, the, 45; Transcendent, 45

Crops, spraying, 290

Currant, the black, 48

Currants, red and white, 46; culture, 46 ; pruning,
46; the best black — Baldwin’s, 49; Black
Naples, 49; Boskoop Giant, 49; Carter's
Champion, 49; Green Bud, 49; Mammoth, 49;
Maple, 49; White Bud, 49; the best red—
Champagne Red, 49; Cherry, 50; Chiswick Red,
so; Cornet, 50; Defiance, 50; Fay’s Prolific, 50;
Houghton Castle, 50; La Fertile, 50; La Ver-
saillaise, 50; Late Dutch, 50; May’s Victoria,
50; Moore's Seedling, 50; New Dutch Red, 50;
Prince Albert, 50; Raby Castle, 50; the Scotch

Red, 49; the best white — Grosse, Blanche
50; Shilling's Cut-Leaved White, 50; White
Dutch, 50; White Transparent, 50; Versailles,

50
Cyphomandra betacea, 212

DAMSON, the, 160

Damson, Bradley's King, Cheshire or Shrop-
shire; Frogmore Prolific; Farleigh Prolific;
Prune of Hereford; White Damson, 160

Diospyros Kaki, 208

Eriobotrya japonica, 215
Eugenia Ugni, 215

FIG, the, 51; crop, the second, 57; cultural notes,
535 culture under glass, 54; fertilisation, «57 ;
protection, 54; pruning, 54; thinning the fruit,
56; Sanne 55; varieties, the best, 57 ; ventila-
tion, 56

Fig, Angelique, 58; Black Ischia, 57; Bour-
jasotte Grise, 57; Brown Turkey, 57; Bruns-
wick, 57; D’Agen, 58; Gourand Rouge, 58;
Madeleine, 58; aie, 57; Monaco Bianca, 57 ;
Nagronne, 58; Nebian, 58; Negro Largo, 58;
Osborne's Prolific, 58; Pingo de Mel, 58;
Reculer, 58; St. John’s, 58; Singleton, 58;
Violette de Bordeaux, 58; Violette Sepor, 58;
White Ischia, 58; White Marseilles, 58

Figs, the best, 57

Filberts, 92

France, fruit culture in, 326

Fruit culture in America, 305—almond, the sweet,
324; apple, 307; apricot, 315; berries, the,
319; blackberries, 320; blueberry, 321; cherry,
315; chestnut, 325; citron, 322; citrus fruits,
321; cocoanut, 324; cranberry, the, 320; cur-
rats, 321; date, 329% figs, 323; filberts, 325;
fruit culture under glass, 325 ; fruit storage, 326;
fruits, miscellaneous tender, 224; fungus dis-
eases and insects, 325; gooseberries, 320;
grape, 317; huckleberry, 321; juneberry, 321;
kumquat, 322; lemon, 322; mango, 324; nec-
tarine, 311; nuts, 324; olive, 323; peach, 309 ;
pear, 312; pecan, 325; pineapple, 324; plum,
313; pomelo, 322; quince, 316; raspberry, 320 ;
Strawberry, 319; vine in California, 318 ; wal-
nut, the Persian, 325

Fruit culture in the Channel Islands, 384—fig,
384; grape, 385; melon, 387; peaches and
nectarines, 388; pear, 389 ; tomato, 389 ; other
crops, 392; fruit cases, 393 ; fuel, 393 ; prospects,

394-

Fruit culture in France, 327—almond, 348; apple,
371; apples, the best, 372; apricot, 346;
cherry, 348; cherries, the best, 350; chest”
nuts, 351; currant, 353; fig, 352; forms
for open-air culture, principal, 337; column
shaped, 338; cordons, 343; palmates, 339;
standard, 338; pyramid, 338; fruit gathering,
336; fruit trees in pots, 331 ; fruit trees, trained,
329; gardens, amateurs’, 327; gardens, experi-
mental, 327; gardens, market, 329; goose-
berry, 354; grapes, the best for open-air culturel
383; incision, annular, 335; manures, chemica,
composition of, 332; medlar, 354; nectarines,
the best, 360; nut, the hazel, 354; peach, 355;

INDEX

pears, the | Grape fruit, the, 205

peaches, the best, 358; pear, 361;
best, 366; planting, 333; plum, 375; plums,
the best, 376; pruning, principles of, 334;
quince, 351; raspberry, 352; soil, a perfect,
332; vine, 378; walnut, 354

Fruit house, how to erect a, 261

Fruit houses, construction of, 294

Fruit, preservation, whole, 279 ; storage, 265

Fruit trees, planting, 255; propagation of, 271;
pruning newly planted, 256; trees as flowering
trees, 252

Fruit trees in pots, 59—apples, 69; canker, 65;
cherries, 68 ; choice of trees, 61 ; fig, 66 ; houses,
the best, 60; insect pests, 65; manure, 64; nec-
tarines, 67; orange, lemon, and allied fruits, 67;
peaches, 68; pears, 69; plums, 68; pots, 63;
potting, 61; pruning, 65; soil, 62; successional
crops, 60; temperature, 64; top dressing, 62;
trees after forcing, 65; trees, longevity of, 66;
watering, &c., 63

Fruits for certain districts, selection of, 268;
gathering hard, 262 ; protecting bush, 47

GOOSEBERRY, the, 70; bird enemies, 72; market
culture, 71; pruning, 70; training, various
methods of, 71

Gooseberries, large fruited, 75. (ed) Beauty,

75; Bobby, Conquering Hero, Clayton, Com-

panion, Crown Bob, Dan's Mistake, Duke of

Sutherland, England, Falstaff, Guido, Lanca-

shire Lad, London, Lord Derby, Napoleon the

Great, Prince Regent, Rifleman, Roaring Lion,

Speedwell, Whinham’s Industry, Wonderful,

75. (Wate) Alina, 75; Antagonist, 75; Care-

less, 75; Faithful, 77; Fascination, 77; Free-

dom, 75; King of Trumps, 75; Hero of the

Nile, 77; Lady Leicester, 77; Lancer, 77;

Overseer, 77; Postman, 77; Queen of Trumps,

77; Shiner, 77: Smith’s Nonpareil, 77; Tally

Ho! 77; Transparent, 77; Velvet White, 77;

Whitesmith, 77. (Green) Admiration, British

Oak, 78; British Queen, 77; Cheerful, 78;

Diadem, 78; Greenock, 77; Lancelot, 78;

Ocean, 77; Overall, 78; Philip the First, 77;

Plunder, 77; Sir George Brown, 78; Stockwell,

78; Surprise, 78; Telegraph, 78; Thumper,

7B. (Yellow) Berry's Kent, Broom Girl,

Catherina, Cobham, Criterion, Drill, Garibaldi,

Gipsy Queen, Gunner, High Sheriff, Keepsake,

Langley Beauty, Leader, Leveller, Lord Ran-

cliffe, Marigold, Peru, Ringer, Stella, Thatcher,

Two to One, 78

Gooseberries, small fruited, 73. (Green) Early
Green Hairy, 73; Glenton Green, 73; Green
Gage, 73; Green Gascoigne, 73; Green Hedge-
hog, 73; Langley Gage, 73; Rosebery, 73.
(Red) Aston Red, 74; Dobson's Seedling, 74;
Ironmonger, 74; Keen’s Seedling, 74; Red
Champagne, 74; Scotch Red Rough, 74;
Superb, 74; Warrington, 74. (Yellow) Cham-
pagne Yellow, 74; Golden Drop, 74; Golden
Gem, 74; Golden Lion, 74; Yellow Ball, 74;
Yellow Sulphur, 74. (WaAzte) Bright Venus,
74; Cheshire Lass, 74; Columbus, 75; Eagle,
74; Snowdrop, 74; White Eagle, 74; White
Shiner, 74; Velvet White, 74. The best, 73

Granadilla, the, 213

499

Grape, thinning, 244

Grapes, black, 236; of recent introduction, 240;
packing for market, 244 ; period of stoning, 246;
some neglected, 239; storing, 247; white and
golden, 237

Guava, the, 215; the purple, 215

House, orchard, 300; the peach, 297
Houses for early strawberries, 299; melon and
cucumber, 298 ; tomato, 300

INSECTs and diseases, injurious, 282

LEMON, the, 205 ; the water, 213
Lime, the, 205

Loganberry, the, 31

Loquat, the, 215

Mangifera indica, 210

Mango, the, 210

Medilar, the, 78; Dutch, Monstrous, Nottingham,
Royal, 79; the Japanese, 215

Melon and cucumber houses, 298

Melon, the, 80; as a market crop, 85; canker, 84;
culture in cold frames, 86; general culture, 83;
houses, 81; insect enemies, 87; planting, 83;
raising the seedlings, 82; size of bed, 8z; soil,
82; shading, 85; successional crops, 85; tempera-
tures and ventilation, 85; varieties, green flesh,
87; varieties, scarlet flesh, 88; varieties, white
flesh, 88; watering, 85

Monstera deliciosa, 214

Mulberry, the, 89

Musa Cavendishii, 211; M. chinensis, 211; M.
sapientum, 211

Myrobelle, the, 160; Botan, Burbank, Red
Fruited, Yellow Fruited, Masu, 160

NECTARINE and peach under glass, the, 94

Nectarine, Cardinal, 114; Dryden, 114; Early
Rivers, 114; Elruge, 114; Hardwicke’s, 115;
Humboldt, 115; Lord Napier, 115; Newton
115; Pine Apple, 115; Pitmaston Orange, 115 ;
Rivers’ Orange, 115; Spencer, 115; Stanwick
Elruge, 115; Victoria, 115

Nectarines for culture under glass, 111; for walls
outdoors, 141; the best, 114

Nut, the, 90

Nuts, cob, 92; filbert, 92

ORANGE, the, 205
Orchard house, 300

Passiflora alata, 213; P. edulis, 213; P. macro-
carpa, 213; P. maliformis, 213; P. guadran-
gularis, 213; P. raddiana, 213

Passion flower fruit, 213

Peach and nectarine, the, bush and standard trees
in the open, 110; under glass, 94—border, 95;
disbudding, 99; enlarging the border, ror ; culture
for market, 111 ; fruit, packing, 105 ; fruits, treat-
ment of ripe, 104; general treatment, 100;
house, 94; planting, 97; pruning, 98; renovat-
ing old trees, ror; root pruning, 97; soil, 96;
thinning the fruit, 103; training, various methods

500
of, 102; ventilation, 95; culture on walls out-
doors, 107

Peach, Alexander, riz; Alexandra Noblesse, 112;
‘Amsden June, 112; Barrington, 112 ; Bellegarde,
1zz; Condor, 112; Crimson Galande, 112;
Dagmar, 114; Doctor Hogg, 114; Duchess of
Cornwall, 112; Duchess of York, 112; Dymond,
112; Early Alfred, 112; Early Grosse Mig-
nonne, 112; Golden Eagle, 112; Goshawk,
113; Grosse Mignonne, 113; Hale’s Early,
113; Lady Palmerston, 113; Late Devonian,
113; Nectarine Peach, 113; Noblesse, 113;
Prince of Wales, 113; Princess of Wales, 113;
Rivers’ Early York, 113; Royal George, 113;
Sea Eagle, 113; Stirling Castle, 114; Thomas
Rivers, 114; Violette Hative, 114; Walburton
Admirable, 114; Waterloo, 114

Peaches for culture under glass, 110; for walls
outdoors, 110; the best, 111

Pear, Albertine, 134 ; Aspasie Aucourt, 132 ; Baron
Leroy, 132, 140; Bartlett, 138; Beacon, 132;
Belle Angevine, 138; Belle Guerandaise, 140;
Belle Julie, 132; Bellissime d’hiver, 132; Ber-
gamotte Esperen, 132; Beurré Bosc, 132;
Beurré Clairgeau, 139; Beurré Diel, 133; Beurré
dAmanlis, 133; Beurré d’Avranches, 136;
Beurré du Buisson, 133; Beurré de Capiaumont,
139; Beurré d'Esteren, 135; Beurré de Jonghe,
133; Beurré Fouqueray, 133; Beurré Giffard,
133; Beurré Hardy, 133; Beurré Jan Van
Geert, 133; Beurré Magnifique, 133; Beurré
Mortillet, 133; Beurré Perran, 133; Beurré
,Rance, 133; Beurré Superfin, 134 ; Biack Jack,

“138; Bonne de Malines, 138; Catillac, 134;
Chalk, 139; Charles Ernest, 134; Clapp’s
Favourite, 134; Colmar d’été, 134; Comte de

Lamy, 140; Conference, 134; Conseiller de la
Cour, 134; Crawford, 139; De Tongrés, 135;
Directeur Hardy, 134; Doyenné Boussoch,
134; Doyenné d’Alencon, 134; Doyenné d’été,
134; Doyenné du Comice, 135; Doyenné de
Merode, 134; Dr. Jules Guyot, 135; Duchesse
d'Angouléme, 140; Duchesse de Bordeaux, 135 ;
Durondeau, 135; Easter Beurré, 135; Emile
d’Heyst, 135; Fertility, 140; Fondante d'Au-
tomne, 135; Fondante de Thirriot, 135; General
Wauchope, 140; Gilogil, 135; Glastonbury,
140; Glou Morceau, 136; Grosse Calebasse,
136; Hessle, 139; Jargonelle, 136; Jersey
Beurré, 133; Josephine de Malines, 136;
Knight's Monarch, 136; Lammas, 139; Le
Brun, 140; Le Lectier, 136; Louise Bonne of
Jersey, 136; Malines, 136; Maréchal de la
Cour, 134; Marguerite Marillat, 136; Marie
Benoist, 136; Marie Louise, 136; Marie Louise
d'Uccle, 137; Marquis, 137; Michaelmas Nelis,
137; Nouvelle Fulvie, 137; Olivier de serres,
137; Parrot, 140; Passe Crassane, 137; Petite
Marguerite, 137; Pickering, 138; Pitmaston
Duchess, 137; Pound Pear, 134,:138; President
Barabe, 137; Princess, 137; Rivers’ Conference,
134; Saint Edmunds, 140; Saint Luke, 138;
Seckle, 138; Souvenir du Congrés, 138; Spring
Beurré, 138; Summer Crassane, 140; Summer
Doyenné, 134; Thompson’s, 138; Triomphe de
Vienne, 138; Uvedale’s St. Germain, 138; Van
Marum, 136; Verulam, 138; Vicar of Wink-

INDEX

field, 138; Warden, 138; Williams’ Bon
Chrétien, 138; Williams’, 138; Winter Nelis,
138; Zephirin Gregoire, 138

Pear in the open, the, 128; the best stocks, 130 ;
orchard culture, 131

Pear trees on walls, 117; distance apart to plant,
120; espalier trained trees, 122; forms of trees,
117; feeding, 124; gathering and storing the
fruit, 124; spring and summer pruning, 120;
pear stock, 118; quince stock, 118; single or
double cordons, 125; thinning the fruit, 123;
training, 119; varieties for walls, 128; for small
gardens, 139; for garden culture, 139; for
orchard standards, 139; of recent introduction,
140; selections of dessert, 139; the best, 132;
best market, 140

Persimmon, the, 208

Pineapple, the, 141; fruit, the ripe, 149; fruiting,
148; general cultural remarks, 145; how to
judge, 150; insect enemies, 149; planting, 144;
plants in borders, 144; pot culture, 146; propa-
gation, 142; soil, 143; summer treatment, 147;
varieties, 143; winter treatment, 148; stove,

299

Plum, Alderton, 159; American Gage, 158; Bel-
gian Purple, 158; Belle de Louvain, 158; Black
Mogul, 158; Bryanstone Gage, 158; Coe’s
Golden Drop, 158; Comte d’Atthem, 158;
Comte d’Atthem’s Gage, 158; Dauphin, 159;
Denniston’'s Superb, 158; Diamond, 158; Early
Apricot, 158; Early Orléans, 158; Early Rivers,
159; Early Transparent, 158; Fonthill, 159;
Grand Duke, 158; Green Gage, 158; Golden
Drop, 158; Golden Transparent, 158 ; Kirke’s,
158; Late Orange, 158; Jefferson, 158; Late
Transparent Gage, 159; Magnum Bonum, 159;
Monarch, 159; Oullin’s Golden Gage, 159;
Pond’s Seedling, 159 ; President, 159; Primate,
159; Prolific, 159 ; Red Egg, 159; Reine Claude
de Bavay, 159; Rivers’ Early Prolific, 159;
Royal Dauphin, 159; Sultan, 159; The Czar,
159; Transparent Gage, 159; Victoria, 159;
White Egg, 159; White Magnum Bonum,
159; Wilmot’s Early, 158; Wyedale, 159

Plum, the, rs1; culture on walls, r5r—mulching,
155; Planting, 152; pruning, 152; summer
pruning, 152; varieties, best, 155; watering,

155
Plum for orchards, the, 156; varieties, 157; t
Cherry, 160; the Date, 208
Plums, the best, 158
Pomegranate, the, 212
Psidium caitleianum, 215; P. Guava, 215
Pumelo, the, 205
Punica Granatum, 212
Pyrus Torminalis, 31

QUINCE, the, 161; apple-shaped, pear-shaped,
the Portugal, 161

RASPBERRY, the, 162

Raspberries in autumn, 163; Belle de Fontenay,
Perpetuel de Billard, Red Four Seasons, Yellow
Four Seasons, 166

Raspberries (Red), Baumforth’s Seedling, Carter’s
Prolific, Hornet, Norwich Wonder, Red Ant-
werp, Semper Fidelis, Superlative, 165; (White

INDEX

and Yellow), Cromwell's Victoria, Grosse
Blanche, The Guinea, White Antwerp, White
Magnum Bonum, Cromwell's Victoria, 165

SHADDOCK, the, 205

Spraying crops, 290

_ Stove, pineapple, 299

Strawberry, Auguste Nicaise, 189; British Queen,
189; Countess, 189; Dr. Hogg, 189; Dum-
barton Castle, 190; Edouard Lefort, 190;
Eleanor, 190; Elton Pine, rgo; Filbert Pine,
190; Frogmore Late Pine, 190; Hautbois, 190;
Kitley's Goliath, 190; La Grosse Sucrée, 190;
Latest of All, 190; Louis Gautier, 190; Ment-
more, 191; Newton Seedling, 191; Oxonian,
190; President (Green's), 191; Queen of Den-
mark, 191; Royal Sovereign, 191; Sir Charles
Napier, 191; Stirling Castle, 191; Sir Joseph
Paxton, 191; The Laxton, 191; The Noble,
1gt; Trafalgar, 192; Trollope’s Victoria, 192;
Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury, 192; Walluff,
192; Waterloo, 192

Strawberry, the, 167; culture under glass, 171—
forcing, very early, 180; fruits formed, 181;
layering, 174; plants in flower, 181; potting,
178 ; preparation for layering, 172; for potting,
177; providing the runners, 176 ; runners, blind,
174; succession of fruits, 182; temperature,
183; treatment when potted, 178; watering,
179; winter protection, 179; varieties of the,
185

Strawberries, Alpine, 187; autumn fruiting, 192;
La Constante d’Automne, 192; St. Antoine de
Padoue, 192; Saint Joseph, 192 ; in cold frames,

501

184; in the autumn, 184; out-of-doors, 167—

procuring runners, 169; late, 169; perpetual

fruiting, 169; in barrels, 170; the best, 189
Sweet-Cup, the, 213

ToMATO, the, 193; the tree, 212; houses, 300

Tomato culture out-of-doors, 197—gathering and
packing the fruit, 199; varieties, 199; culture
under glass, 193—final potting, 194; general
treatment, 195; late tomatoes, 196; succes-
sional crops, 195; varieties, 196; when to begin,
194; for market, t99—in the vinery, 201;
houses, 200; houses devoted entirely to the
tomato, 202; planting, 200; preparing the soil,
200; soil difficulties, 203; tomatoes in pots,
202; water supply, 204; without fire heat, 202

Tomatoes, ornamental fruiting, 199

Tropical fruits and how to grow them, 205

VANILLA, the, 214; V. plantfolia, 214

Vitis vinifera, 217

Vine, the, 217; border, 220; culture for market,
241; culture in pots, 234; culture in cold houses,
240; culture in the open, 249; enlarging the
border, 226; extension system, 229; moisture
in the atmosphere, 228; planting, autumn,
220; planting, summer, 221; propagation, 231 ;
pruning, 222; soil, 220; successional crops, 229;
temperatures and ventilation, 228; watering,
22'

Vineries, 218; heating, 219; trellising for the
roof, 219

Vines on walls outdoors, 248; how to renovate
old, 230; remarkable, 218

INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS

OUTLINE DRAWINGS OF FRUIT

APPLES, Adam's Pearmain, 397; Alfriston, 397;
Allen’s Everlasting, 398; Allington Pippin, 398 ;
Beauty of Bath, 398; Annie Elizabeth, 399;
Beaumann’s Red Winter Reinette, 399; Beauty
of Kent, 4oo; Belle Pontoise, 400; Bismarck,
401; Blenheim Orange, 401; Braddick’s Non-
pareil, 402 ; Bramley’s Seedling, 402; Brownlee’s
Russet, 402; Calville Blanche, 403; Calville
Malingre, 403; Calville Rouge Precoce, 404 ; Cal-
ville Rouge d'Hiver, 404; Cardinal, 404; Cellini
Pippin, 4o5 ; Chelmsford Wonder, 405 ; Christ-
mas Pearmain, 405; Claygate Pearmain, 406;
Cockle’s Pippin, 406; Cornish Gilliflower, 406 ;
Cox’s Orange Pippin, 407; Cox's Pomona, 407 ;
D'Arcy Spice, 407 ; Devonshire Quarrenden, 408 ;
Duchess of Oldenburg, 408; Duke of Devon-
shire, 408; Ecklinville Seedling, 409 ; Egremont
Russet, 409; Emperor Alexander, 409; Fearn’s
Pippin, 410; Gascoigne’s Scarlet Seedling, 410;
Golden Noble, 410; Golden Reinette, 411;
Golden Spire, 41 ; Gravenstein, 412; Grenadier
Codlin, 412; Hambling's Seedling, 413; Here-
ford Crimson Queening, 413; Hormead Pear-
main, 414; Hubbard’s Pearmain, 414; Irish
Peach, 414; James Grieve, 415; Kerry Pippin,
415; Keswick Codlin, 415 ; King of the Pippins,
416; King of Tompkin’s County, 416; King's
Acre Pippin, 416; Lady Henniker, 417; Lady
Sudeley, 417; Lane’s Prince Albert, 417; Lord
Burghley, 418 ; Lord Derby, 418; Lord Grosve-
nor, 419; Lord Suffield, 419; Mannington’s
Pearmain, 420; Margil, 420; Mére de Ménage,
420; Mother Apple, 421; Mr. Gladstone, 421 ;
Mrs. Phillimore, 421; Newton Wonder, 422;
Norman’s Pippin, 422; Northern Greening, 423;
Old Winter Nonpareil, 423; Peasgood’s None-
such, 423; Pott’s Seedling, 424; Red Juneating,
424; Reinette du Canada, 424; Ribston Pippin,
425; Rosemary Russet, 425; Ross Nonpareil,
425; Roundway Magnum Bonum, 426; Royal
Jubilee, Graham’s, 426; Royal Late Cooking,
427; Sandringham, 427; Sanspareil, 428; St.
Edmund’s Pippin, 428; Scarlet Nonpareil, 428 ;
Seaton House, 429; Stirling Castle, 429; Stone’s
Apple, 430; Striped Beaufin, 430; Sturmer
Pippin, 431; Suinmer Golden Pippin, 434; The
Queen, 434; Tower of Glamis, 432; Wagener,
432; Waltham Abbey Seedling, 433; Warner’s
King, 433; Wealthy, 434; Wellington, 434;
White Nonpareil, 434; White Transparent,
435; Winter Queening, 435; Worcester Pear-
main, 436

502

BARBERRY, the, 436
Bullace, Shepherd’s, 483

CHERRIES, Belle d’Orléans, 437; Bigarreau de
Mezel, 437; Black Eagle, 437; Black Tartarian,
437; Cleveland Bigarreau, 437; Early Rivers,
437; Elton Heart, 437; Emperor Francis, 438 ;
Florence Heart, 437; Frogmore Bigarreau, 437 ;
Géant de Hedelfingen, 438; Kentish Bigarreau,
438; Kentish Red, 438; May Duke, 438;
Napoléon Bigarreau, 438; Nouvelle Royale,
438; Old Black Heart, 438; Royal Duke, 439;
St. Margaret’s, 439 ; The Noble, 439 ; Waterloo,
439; Werder’s Black Heart, 439

DAMSON, the Shropshire, 483

Fics, Bourjasotte Grise, 440; Malta, 440; Negro
Largo, 440; Osborn’s Prolific, 440; St. John’s,
441; Violette Sepor, 441; White Ischia, 441;
White Marseilles, 441

GOOSEBERRIES (small fruited), Bright Venus, 442 ;
Champagne Yellow, 442; Cheshire Lass, 442;
Green Hedgehog, 442; Red Champagne, 442;
Warrington, 442; Yellow Ball, 442

Gooseberries (large fruited), Alma, 443; Beauty,
443; Bobby, 443; Careless, 443; Crown Bob,
442; Criterion, 444; Dan’s Mistake, 443; High
Sheriff, 444; Lady Leicester, 443; Lancer, 443;
Lancashire Lad, 443; Langley Beauty, 444;
Leader, 444; Leveller, 444; Lord Derby, 443;
Napoleon the Great, 443; Rifleman, 443; Smith’s
Nonpareil, 443; Telegraph, 444

Grapes, Alicante, 445; Appley Towers, 445; Black
Hamburgh, 445; Buckland Sweetwater, 445;
Duke of Buccleuch, 445; Foster’s Seedling, 445 ;
Gros Colmar, 445; Gros Maroc, 445; Lady
Downe’s Seedling, 445 ; Madresfield Court, 445 ;
Mrs. Pince, 445; Muscat of Alexandria, 445;
Muscat Hamburgh, 445; White Tokay, 445

LOGANBERRY, the, 486

MEDLARS, Dutch, 446; Royal, 446

NECTARINES, Cardinal, 447; Early Rivers, 447;
Humboldt, 447; Lord Napier, 447; Newton,

448; Pineapple, 448; Rivers’ Orange, 448 ;
Victoria, 448

INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS

PEACHES, Alexandra Noblesse, 449; Barrington,
449; Bellegarde, 449; Condor, 450; Crimson
Galande, 450; Early Alfred, 450; Grosse Mig-
nonne, 451; Hale’s Early, 451; Late Devonian,
451; Nectarine Peach, 452; Prince of Wales,
452; Princess of Wales, 452; Rivers’ Early
York, 453; Sea Eagle, 454; Stirling Castle, 454;
Violette H&tive, 455; Walburton Admirable,
455; Waterloo, 455

Pears, Aspasie Aucourt, 456; Beacon, 456; Ber-
gamotte Esperen, 456; Belle Julie, 457; Bellis-
sime d’hiver, 457; Beurré Bosc, 457; Beurré
d’Amanlis, 458; Beurré de Jonghe, 458; Beurré
Diel, 458; Beurré du Buisson, 459; Beurré
Fouqueray, 459; Beurré Giffard, 459; Beurré
Hardy, 460; Beurré Jean Van Geert, 460;
Beurré Mortillet, 461; Beurré Rance, 461;
Beurré Superfin, 461; Catillac, 462; Clapp’s
Favourite, 462; Colmar d’été, 463; Conference,
463; Conseiller de la Cour, 463; Directeur
Hardy, 464; Doyenné Boussoch, 464; Doyenné
d’Alencgon, 464; Doyenné d’été, 465; Doyenné
du Comice, 465; Dr. Jules Guyot, 465 ; Duchesse
de Bordeaux, 466; Durondeau, 466; Easter
Beurré, 466; Emile d’Heyst, 467; Fondante
d’Automne, 467; Fondante de Thirriot, 467;
Gilogil, 468; Glou Morceau, 468; Grosse Cale-
basse, 468; Jargonelle, 469; Josephine de
Malines, 469; Knight’s Monarch, 469; Le
Lectier, 469; Louise Bonne of Jersey, 470;
Marie Benoist, 470; Marguerite Marillat, 470;
Marie Louise, 471; Marie Louise d’Uccle, 471;
Michaelmas Nelis, 471; Nouvelle Fulvie, 472;
Passe Crassane, 472; Olivier de Serres, 472;
Petite Marguerite, 473; Pitmaston Duchess,
473; Princess, 474; Seckle, 474; Souvenir du
Congrés, 474; Thompson’s, 475; Triomphe de

Vienne, 475; Uvedale’s St. Germain, 476; |

$43

Verulam, 476; Vicar of Winkfield, 477; Williams’
Bon Chrétien, 477; Winter Nelis, 478; Zephirin
Gregoire, 478

Plums, Belle de Louvain, 479; Bryanstone Gage,
479; Comte d’Atthem’s Gage, 479 ; Coe’s Golden
Drop, 479; Denniston’s Superb, 479; Diamond,
479; Early Orléans, 480; Early Transparent
Gage, 480; Golden Transparent, 480; Grand
Duke, 480; Green Gage, 480; Kirke’s, 480;
Late Orange, 481; Late Transparent Gage,
481; Oullin’s Golden Gage, 481; Pond’s Seed-
ling, 481; President, 481; Primate, 482; Reine
Claude de Bavay, 482; Rivers’ Early Prolific,
482; Sultan, 482; The Czar, 482; The Bur-
bank, 483; The Cherry or Myrobelle, 483;
Victoria, 483; White Magnum Bonum, 483

QUINCE, the pear-shaped, 484

RASPBERRIES, Carter’s Prolific, 485; Superlative,
485; White Magnum Bonum, 485

STRAWBERRIES, Auguste Nicaise, 487; Black
Prince, 487; British Queen, 487; Countess,
487; Dr. Hogg, 488; Dumbarton Castle, 488;
Eleanor, 488; Elton Pine, 489; Filbert Pine,
489; Fillbasket, 489; Frogmore Late Pine,
490; Givon’s Late Prolific, 490; Kitley’s Goliath,
490; La Grosse Sucrée, 491; Latest of All, 491;
Louis Gautier, 492; Newton Seedling, 492;
President, 492; Queen of Denmark, 493; Royal
Sovereign, 493; Saint Joseph, 493; Sir Charles
Napier, 494; Sir Joseph Paxton, 494; The
Laxton, 491; Trollope’s Victoria, 494; Vicom-
tesse Hericart de Thury, 494; Walluff, 495;
Waterloo, 495; Hautbois, 495; Alpine, 496

WINEBERRY, the, 486

FULL PAGE PLATES

A Cherry Orchard in Spring . . Frontispiece
To face page

Grass Paths and Spring Flowers in the
Orchard I
Ribston Pippin Apple T nes, at Ribston Park 6
Dwarf Apple Trees, Beauty of Kent 7
Cordon Apple Trees, in nursery rows . ro

Cordon Apple Trees, in a Herefordshire
nursery . 11
Dwarf Apple Tr ees, in flower 12

Apple, Lane's Prince Albert, as a * bush
tree : 13

Cordon Espalier Apple Trees, by garden path 18
Apple Walk, in the kitchen garden at Over-

strand . 19
The Cut-leaved Bramble at Slinfield Manor . 30
The Loganberry . 31
The Dessert Cherry, as ‘a wall tree : 36
Fan-trained Morello Cherry Tree, on wall . 37
Standard Cherry Sal five years old (un-

pruned) . 38
Pot Cherry Tr ees, in bloom (under glass) 39
Cherry Trees, in pots of six inches diameter. 40
Cherry, Governor Wood, as a pot tree . 41
A Branch of White Heart Cherries : 42
Cherry Black Tartarian, on a wall under glass 43
Morello Cherry Tree, on north wall. 44
Bush Cherry Trees, in the Royal Gardens,

Windsor ‘ 45
The Best Way to pr otect Bush Fruits ie)
Fig, Brown Turkey. q SI
A Grove of Fig Trees, near Worthing ' 52
Avenue of Fig Trees, ina Worthing garden. 53
Plum and Apple Trees, in pots ‘ . 60
Specimen Peach Tree, in pot > 61
Rivers’ Early Cherry, as a pot tree r » 62
Peach, Thomas Rivers . a f : » 63
Nectarine, Victoria ‘ « G8
Pot Peach Tree, Dr. Hogg, i in flower . 67
A typical Pot Pear Tree . ¥ ; 68
A Standard Gooseberry * 2 i a oe
Fruiting Branches of the Medlar . é 78
Melon Culture, in narrow borders ‘ 80
An Effective Method of securing Melon Fruits 8r
A typical Netted Melon z 86
Cob Nut in Summer. =. 90
Cob Nut in Winter 3 QI
An Old Nut Walk = o2
Peach Trees, on back wall of glasshouse - 96
Daffodils and Peach Trees, in a market

nursery . - 97
How to Cover a Wall quickly 102
Model Fan-trained Peach Tree » 103

To face page
Peach, Royal George, on a south wall . 106
Standard Fan-trained Peach Tree, on south
wall 107
Nectarine, Lord Napier, packed for market . II4
Fan-trained Pear Tree, in blossom + $16
Fan-trained Pear Tree, with central stem . 118
Horizontally-trained Wall Pear Tree. r1g
Pear Tree, on arched trellis, Royal Gardens,
Windsor . . 122
A Veteran Horizontally-trained Pear Tree 12s
Double Cordon Pear Trees, on wall. * req
Fruit Spurs of an Old Espalier Pear Tree 125
Single Oblique Cordon Pear Trees : 126
Pear, Marguerite Marillat, as a cordon on a
west wall ‘ an 27
A Pyramid Pear Tree, Charles Ernest | 128
Pyramid Pear Tree, in flower 129
Triple Upright Cordon Pear Tree 132
Pear, Beurré Rance 133

Pear Tree, upright form of training for pillar 134
An Old Espalier Pear Tree, Glou eee
at Chiswick

‘ 135
Typical Pyramid Pear Trees _ iB
Pear, Josephine de Malines, erie “upon
Beurré d’Amanlis . 139
Pear, William’s Bon Chrétien ‘ 140
at House of the Queen Pineapple . . 144
Bullace, The Langley . . + 160
Fan-trained Plum Trees, on wall . . I6r
Strawberry Leader, in a Middlesex garden 167
Strawberry Culture, in barrel % 170
Strawberry Culture, in pots for market . . 176
How to Protect Strawberries from Birds « 197

Tomato Culture, in pots in a market nursery 194
Tomato Culture, in beds in a market nursery 195

The Navel Orange 5 ri z 206
The Custard Apple ‘i ‘i é «$207
| A Bunch of Mangoes . + 210
| The Grape Fruit . 2Ir
| The Edible Passion Flower, i in fruit. 212
| The Pomegranate. * -« 813
The Kelsey Plum . . i . 214
The Otaheite Orange . ‘ 215
The Old Vine at Hampton Court . . 218
Stem of the Hampton Court Vine ‘ » 219
The Great Vine at Cumberland Lodge. 220

Market Vinery filled with Alicante Grapes . 221
A Remarkable Foster's sian Vine at

Frogmore é 222
Grape, Reine Olga 223
How the Vine is Trained in a Market Nursery, 228
. Vineries, in a market nursery ' 229

an

INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS

505

To face page
Pear Tree Walk at Swallowfield Park . 255
Apple Grafting, on cut back espalier 29
Grafted Apple as witb resulting growths
tiedin . 271
' Pineapple Culture in Southern Flor ida. 304
Cocoanut Palms in Florida . 305
Field of Pineapples in Florida 308
Prune Drying in California .« 309
Drying Raisins in California 317
A Strawberry Farm in Wisconsin . 320
' Ina Michigan Blackberry Field . 321
A Market Vinery in the Channel Islands 390
Fig Culture in the Channel Islands 391
A Channel Island Vinery . 394
How Melons are grown in the Channel
Islands . ‘i 395

To ssa page |
Grape, Appley Towers . . 230 .
Grape, Muscat of Alexandria F 231: t
Alicante Grape, grown for market 234
Grape, Alicante 235
Grape, Lady Hutt 236
Grape, Gros Colmar 237
Grape, Gros Guillaume 238
Grape, Madresfield Court 239
Alicante Grapes, in baby basket . 242
Baby Basket Packed in Hamper for Market 243
A Champion Exhibit of Grapes at the Shrews-
bury Show. . 244 |
A Decorated Dessert Table at Shrewsbury
how 245
Old Wall Pear Tree, in blossom . 252
The Wise Apple Tree, in flower at Frogmore 253

Horizontally-trained Pear Tree, in flower

254

DIAGRAMS

APPLE, network form of training, 371; pinching
leading growth, 260; pruning the (summer), 2;
pruning the (winter), 4

Apple tree, a maiden or one year old, 256; in
second winter, 257; in third winter, 258; in

fourth winter, 259; V-shaped, 344; vase-
shaped, 338
Apple trees, double and single horizontal cordon,

344 ee : 5
Apricot, characteristic growth, with side shoots

pinched, 28; fan-trained, 347; part of a leafless
branch, 26; portion of branch, with characteristic
growths, 25; typical shoots of the, 347

Barrow for carrying hardy fruit, a spring, 263
Boiler, ordinary plain saddle, 302; steel riveted
modified Cornish, 302; terminal saddle, 302

CHERRY, fruiting branch, with characteristic
growths, 34; one-year-old shoot of, 349; two-
year-old shoot of, 349; preceding year's growth
stopped and shortened, 37; side shoot pinched,
36; a spur become elongated and crowded ky
annual growth, 38

Currant bush (red), standard, 47, 353; side branch,
48; side branch, summer pruned, 49; winter
pruned, 49

Fic branch, 56; part of, 352; showing winter
pruning, 55; extension growth (stopped), 53;
leafless, 54; portion of branch showing char-
acteristic growths and mode of bearing, 52

Fruit trees, espalier-trained and standard, 330

GOOSEBERRY branch, showing mode of growth
and fruiting, 71

Gooseberry bush, four years old from cutting, 74 ;
pruning and training, 76; growth (stopped)
from a spur (leafless), 73; portion of branch to
show method of pruning branches, 72; raising
from cutting and forming bush, 70; spurs, 71 ;
a shoot bearing fruit, 73; standard, 354; growth
from graft, maiden, 335

Grapes not thinned, bunch of, 245;
thinned, 246

properly

MELON or cucumber house, 298

Nut, cob, pruned branch of, 90; growths from a
shoot closely spurred in winter, 91; growths
from shoot shortened to a wood- bud, 92

Nut tree after pruning, four years old, cob, 93

Nut, hazel, part of branch of, 354
ORCHARD house, 301

PEACH tree, fan-trained, with one series of
branches, 359; with two series of branches, 360;
V-shaped, 359

Peach, characteristic shoots of the, 355; methods
of pruning the, 356; pruning terminal shoots of,

358; a shoot of the, pinched, 357

Pech house, lean to, 297; span-roof, 298

Peach and nectarine, an extension branch, 105 ;
characteristic blossom-buds, 99; characteristic
wood-buds, 98 ; disbudded branch after fruit is
set, 102; fruiting branch and successional fruit-
ing shoot, 103; fruiting shoot, with buds re-
moved from underneath, 100; lateral from an
extension branch, 104; shoot of preceding
summer properly shortened, 99; three-year-old
side branch, 106

Pear, characteristic shoot of the, 366; fruit-bearing
growths of the, 365; portion of branch from
where fruit has been gathered, 366; bush tree
(five years old), 129; cordons, diagonal, 127;
cordons, single and double horizontal, 126;
cordons, vertical, 127; columnar tree (five years
old), 131

Pear tree (two years old), column shaped, 337;
typical column shaped, 337; double- stemmed
fan-trained, 365 ; fan-trained tree, one year, 125;
two years, 125; fan and horizontal training,
modified, 126; fan-trained, showing first series
of branches, 340; with two series of branches,
340; with three series of branches, 341; forms
for walls and espaliers, 118; horizontal branch,
123; maiden tree, 124; pyramid tree (five years
old), 128; two years old, 335; pyramid, with
two series ‘of branches, 362: with three series of
branches, 363; with four series of branches,
364; the winged, 336; pyramidal tree in third
season's growth, 120; side branch in growth,
r2t; side branch (leafless), Tea: standard, fan-
trained, 345; V-shaped, 343

Pear trees as oblique cordons, 344

Pineapple stove, 300

Plum, branch with one to three years’ wood, 154;
elongated spur, 157; portion of branch in char-
acteristic summer growth, 152; result of shorten-
ing vigorous shoot at winter pruning, 153;
result of shortening a vigorous side shoot, 157;
spur, elongated, 156

Plum tree, standard vase-shaped, 339; in fruit,
shoot of, 376

506

INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS

Propagation by budding, 274; by ‘‘eyes” and
cuttings, 278; by grafting, 272; by layers and
suckers, 276

RASPBERRY, arching the fruiting canes, 165; fruit-
ing shoot of, 352; pruning, espalier, 164 ;
pruning, non-staking method of, 163; results of
shortening canes, 162; shortening canes at
planting, or in spring, 162; training to upright
stake and removing surplus suckers, 164

STRAWBERRY, correct methods of planting rooted
runners, 168; incorrect methods, 169; a runner
bearing plantlets of varying sizes, 173; section
of 6-inch pot with plant properly potted, 177;
three methods of layering, 175

Strawberry house, lean-to, 299; span-roof, 299

TRAINING, double U form of, 343; Cossonet form
of, 34%

ried

‘VERRIER PALMATE,” with three branches, 342 ;
four branches, 342; five branches, 342; six
branches, 342; (double-stemmed), with eight
branches, 342

Vine, growths from a spur that in winter has been
pruned to two buds, 226; growth from young
vine cut down to two buds, 228; in first year’s
growth after planting, 224; incision, annular, 381;
on roof trellis at third winter pruning, 225 ; shoot
pinched at one leaf above the bunch, 381 ; shoot,
pruning a one-year-old, 380; shoot, three years
old, pruning a, 380; spur, properly pruned, 227;
Thomery form of training, 381, 382; two years
old, for fruiting in pot or planting, 222; young
cane cut down to two buds, 228

Vinery, early lean-to, 295 ; semi-span, 296; span-
roof, 297

Vines, single cordon, 378; dwarf and tall cordon,
379

THE END

Printed by BALLANTYNE, HANSON & Co.
Edinburgh & London

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