retest ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY NEw YorK STATE COLLEGES OF AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS AT CORNELL UNIVERSITY EVERETT FRANKLIN PHILLIPS BEEKEEPING LIBRARY Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www. archive.org/details/cu31924000498588 MANUAL oF THE APIARY, BY A. DCO OK, Professor of Entomology, IN THE MICHIGAN STATE AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE. FLPTH EDITION, REVISED, ENLARGED, MOSTLY RE-WRITTEN AND BEAUTIFULLY ILLUSTRATED. SEVENTH THOUSAND. CHICAGO, ILLS. : THOMAS G. NEWMAN & SON, 1880. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1878, by THOMAS G. NEWMAN & SON, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. to tise REVEREND L. L. LANGSTROTH, THE . INVENTOR OF THE MOVABLE FRAME HIVE, THE HUBER OF AMERICA, AND THE GREATEST MASTER OF PURE AND APPLIED SCIENCE, AS RELATING TO APICULTURE, IN THE WORLD; THIS MANUAL IS GRATEFULLY DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR. PREFACE. In 1876, in response to a desire frequently expressed by my aplarian friends, principally my students, I published an edition of 3,000 copies of the little unpretending “ Manual of the Apiary.’ This was little more than the course of lectures which I gave annually at the College. In less than two years this was exhausted, and the second edition, enlarged, revised, and much more fully illustrated, was issued. So great was the sale that in less than a year this was followed by the third and fourth editions, and, in less than two years, the fifth edition (seventh thousand) was issued. Hach edition has been enlarged and changed, to keep pace with our rapidly advancing art. It‘is the desire and determination of both publishers and author, to make this work the exponent of the most improved apiculture ; and no pains will be spared, that each succeeding edition may embody the latest improvements and discoveries wrought out by the practical man and the scientist, as gleaned from the excellent home and foreign apiarian and scientific periodicals. A. J. COOK. State Agricultural College, Lansing, Mich, CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. Who May Keep Beés............. 0c cc ccc ees ee cnceuenes 11 Specialists ............. 0. ccc e cee eee eabesada exes mee ey 11 AMALCULS Sis wiecew seek cna ve hs «ee pede chav ewes SAAR aN 11 Who are Specially Interdicted ...................cc cece 12 Inducements to Bee-Keeping ........... 0... 0c cc cece cues 12 RECTCATION oi ocd oa he tana get wad evs heey £6 Boe S ETN 12 Prost os ssiccatseuen chau serie eewe sakes aes ad canes bank ae als 13 Excellence as an Amateur Pursuit................. 15 Adaptation to Women ............. 0... cece cee e eee 15 Improves the Mind and Observation............... 17 Yields Delicious Food ............. cc cece eee eee eee 17 What Successful Bee-Keeping Requires ................ 18 Mental EROLt ix ccasdae ccd von acted cag eat aweabers da 18 Experience Necessary .............:.cce cece eect eeeee 18 Learn from Others.............-.ccee cee eee e eee eeeee 18 Aid from Conventions ............. cece cece cece ween 19 Aid from Bee Papers ..............cce cece scene eens 19 American Bee Jourial............. cc ceee een eee 19 Gleanings in Bee Culture.....................6. 20 Bee-Keepers’ Magazine ..............+.-see eee eee 21 Books for the Apiarist.............. cece eee ener eee 21 Langstroth on the Honey-Bee.................. 21 uinby’s Mysteries of Bee-Keeping............ 22 ing’S Text-Book ..........:cee cece n cee een en eees 22 A, B, C of Bee Culture.......... ccc ce cece eens 22 Foreign Works. ...........cceseseeeeeeeeeeeeennes 22 Promptitude....... Sat soea: ... OB PNthusiasnd soo ccaskig gees ovcca gs nese iaeeadeann denen 24 PART TI. NATURAL HISTORY OF THE HONEY BEE. CHAPTER I. The Bee’s Place in the Animal Kingdom............. 27 The Branch of the Honey-Bee........ te OT The Class of the Honey-Bee.... ... 28 The Order of the Suh Bepee eiuite ag acpi ele oietetas Hnel 30 The Sub-Order of the Honey-Bee.................. 31 ii. CONTENTS. The Family of the IJoney-Bee..................005 84 The Genus of the Honey-Bee..................008. 38 The Species of the Honey-Bee..................... 41 The Varieties of the Honey-Bee................... 41 German, or Black Bee...............0cc cece eee eee 47 Italian, or Ligurian........... 0.0.0... cece eee eee 41 Fasciata, or Egyptian...../...0.000..0 ccc cece eee eee 43 ,, Other Varieties.......... 0... c cece cece eee ee ee eenes 43 BIDWORTADNY a vst ie concours sties ah od gurl 2 iaaeicean, aeaGiaswaiete 44 Valuable Books on Entomology..................65 47 CHAPTER II. Anatomy and_ Physiology .............-.00eee eee P ssobatsueneiate 48 Anatomy of Insects.......... 0c. cece cece ete en ee enens 48 Organs of the Head ............... cece cece ace eeeee 48 Appendages of the Thorax...................0.00ee 55° Internal Anatomy .......... 2... sees eee eee ee eee eee ee 56 Secretory Organs .........-........- serantvk: Gamiht- Chena rarn de 61 Bex Oreanss ovacsacabse inn ed ahakaahs wat Mada eared 62 Transformations ...........0 0. cece cece ee eee eee eeenees 66 DDG. HOOF sci hee ae ciek dS os hare Bon nia eE aed oad 67 The: Larval, ::2ve25 perce whale mee eens eae peeaes 68 he. PUPA i yas sake cit ent bce Shades Wee nee Boe 68 The Imago Stage.............4.c. cece e eee cee 70 ._ Incomplete Transformations.................... 0 eee 70 Anatomy and Physiology of the Honey Bee........... 71 Three Kinds of Bees in Each Colony............. 71 The Queen............. ph anaiut v bude Sonnets Ba aie . 71 PHE DPOME se. sieeacc soa ces ev aseme de ses Se caren oars 86 The Neuters or Workers.................e eee eee 90 CHAPTER III. Swarming, or Natural Method of Increase.............. 101 ' CHAPTER IV. Products of Bees, their Origin and Function.......... 104 HONCY ie5 caec ces ess eee ee ees ovens oe he ce ae ye ieee as cals 104 Waki cv cee cece vere cea yee vd Hehe ieee oss Cee debe ngese ners 106 Pollen, or Bee-Bread..........cece cece cece ete eee eeees 111 Propolis saecus cenaenetenesGme saee oe ox eases eseleeed os 112 Bibliography: sasssccacceastasenda uasaeoie basket ye eeesi es 113 PART II. THe APIARY, ITS CARE AND MANAGEMENT............ 115 INTRODUCTION. Pre PALALIOD: .ce-soad dara soGuivde bb ceed g2G8 Lea w ee WA AO ae ss 117 ; ead a Good Manual......... fais Bound Reese sey tahicaysns ate 117 VASIt SOME APIAVISt ec cc ancien cacnine te ety be eetioea ne eee 117 CONTENTS. iii. Take a College Course............ 0.0 .c ce cece aeeeeuee 118 Decide on a Plan..... 00... cece cece cence eeeeues 118 How to Procure our Bees.................... 0000s eee. 118 Kind of Bees to Purchase........... 0.02... e cece ec eeeeuee 119 In What Kind of Hives...........00.000.......... paisa chuantaes 119 When.to Purchase... ec... ccc ccc ceases ess ve tun nnocwueevins 119 How Much 0: Pays eicc ees pik ake Os Ge SEES a4 bow dietenunn 120 W.Here: tO LO Catto. i aginaneeew xe es c8-2448 24 24 bedec aan 120 CHAPTER V Hives and Boxes............ ccc ccccc ccc ecnccceeeeuaeesnns 122 Box Hives..................000005 bea olentaheced ieee ane dae 122 Movable Comb Hives.........------ +s... see ee eee es 128 The Langstroth Hive............. 00.0... cece cece 123 Character of the Hive.....................085 124 The Bottom Bourg stereos Gage 4s Sea 127 | (Phe: COVEN. 22 sanwac's sends $a araarertndanten 129 HES BEAMES ses ces vias eedcn es kag Bee CMe ..182 How to Construct the Frames........ 133 A Block for making Frames...... 134 Cover for Frames...............0c0ee cease 136 Division: Boar@s: 2s scccacccasssaecs cee aca 187 The Huber Hive...................... ‘eieaecney see lOo Apparatus for Securing Ganb Hones Svar ageeue Osta 84 141 OXCS sis .aciareiwe veo eee eee Rea eias sees ob eas ees 142 Small Frames or Sections.......... ee ree 144 Requisites of Good Frames................... 144 Description sociaxiviads eceiencigta nee cascess 144 How to Place Sections in Position................ 147 Sections in Frames...................:.ee eee 147 Sections in Racks................00ccceee cece 149 CHAPTER VI. Position and Arrangement of the Apiary................ 152 SPOSitiOnic: sive eee que bone ae 5 cOAeteielatarnnnd:niate meine date 152 Arrangement of Ground............. ii alovAtsyophtecia ahaa 152 Preparation for each Colony..........-..s seen cree es 153 CHAPTER VII. TO Transfer Be@S..cicsceoccccs cscs ten nee se pce toes acne 156 CHAPTER VIII. Feeding and Feeders......-..0.20cecece cree ence cee seeeeee 159 Hoe Much to Feed...........0seeee ees siete Wade uisiaten asain’ 159 How to Feed..........ccc cece cere eee ete ester ennees 160 CHAPTER Ix meen Rearing... 1.0.2.2 cc cee cee dee ece reser arte eenenes 163 ¢ Ho Gry Gol Theva Me ons noes oe onions octet ie cane NUCL OR geerv-yis seca arn aint ale Weve ne Aes oes Sat ie ees ea eee la aaa we Clip the Queen’s Wing?.... ..........-.-+06- 168 iv. CONTENTS, CHAPTER X. InGrease: OF Colonies ssa sasie sede cides sneer ace eared siacesacew ages 171 Swarming........ cece cece cece ence cece ene ee eene renee 171 Hiving: SWarms os sie keers sles stanseanaielniews svsseseie“et%s 173 To Prevent Second Swarms...............0000 sei etelers 175 To Prevent SwarmMing............c..c eee e cere eee e eee 176 How Best to Increase............ ccc cece eens cece eee ee el TT DiVIGING secs se os ¢2 na Pewee 3 Bee Gree ule Rar Rael deRIgE ER 5 177 Howto: Did Cte ss. yaaa c-cae odlesuatine awmaene ais 2 177 CHAPTER XI. Italians and Italianizing..........0. 00... ccce cece eee e ences 180 All Should Keep only Italians...................02005 183 How’ to- (talianiZee: sis 2k sees non paeadieowwee xan cece 183 ‘How to Introduce a Queen..............csee cece eeees 183 To Get Italian Queens... ........ cece cece cece eee renee 185 Rearing and Shipping Queens.............. ....... -.186 To Ship Queens.)sjsss202 sesnen saws vee eee Xd tae sees 186 To: Move: Colonies's. aici wosesatcacsnaw rare seweee es 4 187 CHAPTER XII. Aexiancting and the Extractors.............. se tiaersciin ages s 188 PUXtPACCOP sso: Se ue au slosadnasinawantwGaGe mids 188 What Ss ae TO BUY isco Gee aesaediatesseameniess 189 Use of the Extractor............ 0. cee cece anes rere 191 When to use the Extractor...............cc cee e cena 192 HOW tO EXtracts visiic avececiteasasnamuras aaucaaniatese se 194 CHAPTER XIII Handling, B6GS) oic.ce ocerareeawiry saa dita dotnamataeniaen ees 195 “he Best: Bee. Veil sek esis anne 8456 aca ceckar waoweneases 196 To Quiet, Bees sce cies sau ed ae oslo ve dea a ars dened Gemeelens 197 Bellows Smoker...........0..ccccccceeceeceuseccecseee 198 The Quinby Smoker..............c cece cece eee eee 198 The Bingham Smoker................csceceeceees 199 How to Smoke Bees...............ccccceeevcececeeees 201° To: Cure SUN OS ss 2cace anaerauie’y doles 208 ooo sa Mes ee 201 ‘Lhe Sweat THEOL: . ois .-< ese ie dene caren 4 wes oak oaaneee 201 CHAPTER XIV Comb Foundation. Dest ad enotinhacetn oi Rene Guhl ak col a ho dale 203 History.. sath badialesagieze 208 American Roundation: . 204 How Foundation is Made . .206 To Secure the Wax Sheets. . 206 Use of Foundation. . 207 To Fasten the aan aus Save the ee een ne eres arene eee 211 MOthOOS ict snadawed Metin che sesteeeeusineeea thee ss 211 CONTENTS, Vv. CHAPTER XV. Marketing Honey .........- 2.2... cece ne eeeeneeeeeneeees 213 How to Invigorate the Market...................... 213 Extracted: Honeys. «s%.0s3en danseecamen gains sieves 214 How to Tempt the Consumer............,.......0000 214 Comb Honey: «.. 225. ssassncciacassce evar esceestseve sees 215. Rules to be Observed............c..seee eee eeeee 215. CHAPTER XVI. Honey. Plants \asccwtoanletaaeintoadlacana tana weiead von eess 218 hat are the Valuable Honey Plants?.............. 220 Description with Practical Remarks.............. 222 April Plants. oes hu dix geecibcch ieee sosnehew.d es be 223. BY PANS oa desecermnt wana aliiioseslediaye dsceees 925 JUNE PAN ts. csc. ciascdewrese deleirleniaa been a beso 8 228 JULY PLANS so. is esisicaca seowataakiieeiwadec snes 237 August and September Plants................ 242, Books on Botany... ...........cceccceeeecceeeeers 244. Practical Conclusions...............eee ee eee DAE CHAPTER XVII. ‘Wintering Bees cases aecs dec akan mes seen same ees cane oe 246. The Cause of Disastrous Wintering............... 246 Requisite to Safe Wintering—Good Food............ 248. Secure Late Breeding..................0ec cece ees 24y To Secure and Maintain Proper Temperature... . .249: Box for Packingin. .cc.43..esacaver ma esssemseaw vaes 250 Chaff Hives....... hina actress Mare acetone ay tates. ese vale ess 251 Wintering in Cellar or Elouse..............-.02e eee 252 Burying Begin... 2 isaccse7 vaca vies tdentae hens cosine cise 254 Spring Dwindling............... 2... cece eee eee eens 254 CHAPTER XVIII. The House Apiary........... 0... cc cece cere eee e eee ees 255 DDESCTIPCION . eis aa case ncatecdet. oe om Vd ee hea vbibig Sead a: sense onion’ 255 Are they Desirable.... 0.0.0.0... 0. cc cece cece ee ee eee 256 The Case as it Now Stands............... eee eee 256: CHAPTER XIX. Evils that Confront the Apiarist...................... 258. Robbing..............-..- Ged a Selde oiae aac ee 258. DISGASE : cicin siocnine ees sniex Oye coke ao osaeas eee teas tae 259 FOUL Brood);és Weadeatensghuis save ok ove eee ses 259 ROM CGICS: caicnve ais odtce-ckes: vaio edna eedlo dees Gee anes 260 Enemies, Of Bees sci seis ted eves tek beens Kaba sees ee 262 SDE Be: MOths sais sess asi exienetaeg gece coe cngselateierasae's Os 262 PIS ORV siateicnds cae cars saris walaseos Gels eauacaue 266. FROMECICS a ites siya dosiaesnare sstaceye Sais ih Bisere inte Sure: 6: ek LOO Bee: Kallerice woes ee isiesccesd psa ee dees wees ae eheons 267 vi. CONTENTS. Hee Founs Leg cea side ea 2 and Bai inn eae ne non ant Suggestion Bee Haw Kise: acess a05004 4956 dows Sie os 4 eee eee was Paphine | Diy RTTAS Te eee ee ee SPICELS: o cacceccig tessa sea secs hardaed tan weas wees ADS he ace spe oats ccotes BERET AWA TAG Sw Ree BA amar Keer ieCE WASPS 2 cgue ecuuceain ca abverr.s atin Senmuuhe-} aioe coott Sees De KING BIG se a 6. aces oie seid ast augue d teens Soa TPOAOS 95-5 2d: oa vik Rade SNS Fa4i eae aS ee Sead 4 Ae RAS MCG een siscced sin wre in nse hedae Gaihinawn oem Means Sralese nate we CHAPTER XxX. Calendar and AXiomS . ............. cece eee cece eee eee 274 “Work for Different Months................-.-.....-.. 274 JQDUALY wrod seme vae dev case ss 3455405845 50Se 4s eRe 274 Pe DTUary:ys-sssieecs o458¥ F404 05ers 8 Ne ee Hah 6 eee 274 Mareh ave ews peu daxdvacsseca coe cry ok tant eoeeeanes 274 SADT leave tote crore ating Siem ang ate ad aorta 4 MNES 275 May sea cvis tanec aldgabeeses baeesta we tees 275 JUNE saxccnicieos taste ee. yee anes ches weee ae Bea ews 275 JULY easneena eed eeewand ced AGeR Rs Sakae Alek awe eae 275 AUGUST iiwic cca dste Re. WSS e EET EEA GAAS G Same 275 September... . Bipane die hvatena Mee dee ee as .. 276 Octobenicasnxsncieng odes ese sec secs uhuns -tideaerees wieae Hoe 276 NOVEM DCE wascoctey sha ence etantaawesenmesabehadoetes 276 DOCOM DOL sree sit eso eiva else 9 $4 8-9 hiss deacaeeiictied Somes 276 AXIOMS sosaiaideraaste cet ares Hae eae h Daa AW aaa 277 APPENDIX. History of Movable Frames ............. 2. cece ence eee es 278 Lecanium Tulipifer®.......... 0... ccc ccc cece eee eee 286 Natural History of 2.0.0.0... cc cece ene e cece e ee neee 287 Motherwort as a Honey Plant... ............ 0... cee eee 289 Deseriptlonee iscsi Wed von heae aah bees bee e ee eh wees 291 The Sour-Wo0d Tree. .......... 00 ccc cece neces cee eeeeas 292 The Japan Medlariacsicssgesss odiee seice ee cet eenees aew'ee 293 The Stinging Bug sicod cesses doe Coed ser dese OS ae bewaeane’ 293 The Southern Bee-Killers ............0 0. cc ccee eee eececees 297 Honey-Comb Coral ........ 0. sc ee cece cence ee ences Tesvanseers 301 fT . Block for making Frames a Blow for Section maling + 46. Hetherington Pe Daralorss . Phelps Section .. - Quinby Smokers. . Bingham Smoker. . Comb Foundation, 3 66. Comb Foundation Machine ILLUSTRATIONS. Bee's W. Head of Bee... arva of Bee Pupa of Bee. Queen Bee... Labium of Queen!! Part of Queen’s Leg. Drone Honey: -Comb Langstroth Hive Body of Hive.. Bevel Gauge. Bottom-Board. . Two-Story Hive.. . Cover | to Hive . with Cross-Se Division-Board... Part of Quinby H Part of Bingham Hiv: Glass Honey Box . Isham Honey Box . Harbison Seciion Frame. . Dovetailed PosHon. ection Frame .. ectionsin Frame ... outhard’s Section Rac W heeler’s Section Rack. Simplicity Feeder.. ueen-cell Inserted Knife for Uneapping eiaiptcik Knife with Curved Point. Bee-Veil........... Hivein Shade of Evergreen . Trach . Respiratory Apparatus of a Bee: 2 9. White Sage . White or Dutch Clover: . Alsike Clover . z ee Clover: \. Mi nt - Pollen of Milkwee . Black Mustard ape . Comb Foundation Cutter ........ 206 68. Block for Fastening Foundation: 210 . Presser for Block 211 . Wax Extractor.. . Prize Crate .... . Heddon © Crate. . Chinese Wistaria. Barberry ..... ae ieee hh. Rocky Mountain Bee Plant. 96. ++ 289 97. Boneset ............ 241 98. Buckwheat... + AZ42, 99. Golden Rod.. oo 248 100. Sun Flower...... 2 243, 101. Packing-Box for Win 250 102. Gallery of Moth Larva. +262 103. Loth Larva in Comb 2263 104. Moth Larve . 264 105. Moth Cocoon +264 106. Moth with Win, «264 107. Male and Fema) 265 108. Bee-Killer ............. 268 109. Bee Louse ... +268 110. Tachina Fly . 270 111. Munn Hive .......... 219 112. Munn’s Triangular Hive 280 113. Lecanium Tulpiter ss. 288 114. Stem of Motherwort. ++ 289 115. Fruit and Leaf of Motherwort...290 116. Motherwort Bloom.. wy 117. Sour-Wood ........ 292 118. Stinging-Bug—natu: 294 . Magnified twice 294 Beak, magnified. 294 ‘Antenna, magnifi 182. 183. 5. . Southern Bee-Killer..... . Wing of Asilus Missouriensis. Anterior Jeg, exterior view... .295 nterior view...- Claw, extended a Seecelotatentese auetmiats Middle leg, magnified. F Wings extended. Head of..... Honey-Comb Coral Wasp-stone Coral., INTRODUCTION. WHO MAY KEEP BEES. SPECIALISTS. Any person who is cautious, observing, and prompt to do whatever the needs of his business require, with no thought of delay, may make apiculture a specialty, with almost cer- tain prospects of success. He must also be willing to work with Spartan energy during the busy season, and must persist, though sore discouragement, and even dire misfortune, essay to thwart his plans and rob him of his coveted gains, As in all other vocations, such are the men who succeed in apiculture. I make no mention of capital to begin with, or territory on which to locate; for men of true metal—men whose energy of mind and body bespeak success in advance —will solve these questions long before their experience and knowledge warrant their assuming the charge of large apiaries. AMATEURS, Apiculture, as an avocation, may be safely recommended to those of any business or profession, who possess the above named qualities, and control a little space for their bees, a few rods from street and neighbor, or a flat roof whereupon hives may securely rest (C. F. Muth, of Cincinnati, keeps his bees very successfully on the top of his store, in the very heart of a large city), and who are able to devote a little time, when required, to care for their bees. The amount of time will of course vary with the number of colonies kept, but with proper management this time may be granted at any period of the day or week, and thus not interfere with the regular busi- ness. Thus residents of country, village, or city, male or female, who may wish to be associated with and study natural objects, and add to their income and pleasure, will find here an ever-waiting opportunity. To the ladies, shut out from fresh air and sunshine, till pallor and languor point sadly to 1 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. departing health and vigor, and to men the nature of whose business precludes air and exercise, apiculture cannot be too highly recommended as an avocation. WHO ARE SPECIALLY INTERDICTED. There are a few people, whose systems seem to be specially susceptible to the poison intruded with the bee’s sting. Sometimes such persons, if even stung on the foot, will be so thoroughly poisoned that their eyes will swell so they cannot see, and will suffer with fever for days, and, very rarely, indi- viduals are so sensitive to this poison that a bee-sting proves fatal. I hardly need say, that such people should never keep bees. Many persons, among whom were the noted Klein and Gunther, are at first very susceptible to the poison, but spurred on by their enthusiasm, they persist, and soon be- come so innoculated that they experience no serious injury from the stings. It is a well-recognized fact, that each suc- cessive sting is less powerful to work harm. Every bee- keeper is almost sure to receive an occasional sting, though with the experienced these are very rare, and the occasion neither of fear nor anxiety. INDUCEMENTS TO BEE-KEEPING. RECREATION. Among the attractive features of apiculture, I mention the pleasure which it offers its votaries. There is a fascination about the apiary which is indescribable. Nature is always presenting the most pleasurable surprises to those on the alert to receive them. And among the insect hosts, especially bees, the instincts and habits are so inexplicable and marvel- ous, that the student of this department of nature never ceases to meet with exhibitions that move him, no less with wonder than with admiration. Thus, bee-keeping affords most wholesome recreation, especially to any who love to look in upon the book of nature, and study the marvelous pages she is ever waiting to present. To such, the very fascination of their pursuit is of itself a rich reward for the time and labor expended. I doubt if there is any other class of manual MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 13 laborers who engage in their business, and dwell upon it, with the same fondness as do bee-keepers. Indeed, to meet a scientific bee-keeper is to meet an enthusiast. A thorough study of the wonderful economy of the hive must, from its very nature, go hand-in-hand with delight and admiration. I once asked an extensive apiarist, who was alse a farmer, why he kept bees. The answer was characteristic: ‘Even if I could not make a good deal the most money with my bees, I should still keep them for the real pleasure they bring me.” But yesterday I asked the same question of Prof. Daniels, President of the Grand Rapids schools, whose official duties are very severe. Said he: “For the restful pleasure which I receive in their management.” I am very sure, that were there no other inducement than that of pleasure, I should be slow to part with these models of industry, whose marvelous instincts and wondrous life-habits are ever ministering to my delight and astonishment. A year ago, I received a visit from my old friend and Col- lege classmate, O. Clute, of Keokuk, Iowa. Of course I took him to see our apiary, and as we looked at the bees and their handiwork, just as the nectar from golden-rod and asters was flooding the honey-cells ; he became enraptured, took my little “Manual of the Apiary’ home with him, and at once subscribed for the old American Bee Journal. He very soon purchased several colonies of bees, and has found so much of pleasure and recreation in the duties imposed by his new charge, that he has written me several times, expressing gratitude that I had led him into such a work of love and pleasure. PROFITS. The profits, too, of apiculture, urge its adoption as a pur- suit. When we consider the comparatively small amount of capital invested, the relatively small amount of labor and ex- pense attending its opperations, we are surprised at the abundant reward that is sure to wait upon its intelligent practice. I do not wish to be understood here as claiming that labor—yes, real hard, back-aching labor—is not required in the apiary. The specialist, with his hundred or more colo- nies, will have, at certain seasons, right hard and vigorous 14 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. work. Yet this will be both pleasant and healthful, and will go hand-in-hand with thought, so that brain and muscle will work together. Yet this time of hard, physical labor will only continue for five or six months, and for the balance of the. year the apiarist has or may have comparative leisure. Nor do I think that all will succeed. The fickle, careless, in- dolent, heedless man, will as surely fail in apiculture, as in any other calling. But I repeat, in the light of many years of experience, where accurate weight, measure, and counting of change has given no heed to conjecture, that there is no manual labor pursuit, where the returns are so large, when compared with the labor and expense. An intelligent apiarist may invest in bees any spring in Michigan, with the absolute certainty of more than doubling his investment the first season ; while a net gain of 400 per cent. brings no surprise to the experienced apiarists of our State. This of course applies only to a limited number of colonies. Nor is Michigan superior to other States as a loca- tion for the apiarist. During the past season, the poorest I ever knew, our fifteen colonies of bees in the College apiary, have netted us over $200. In 1876, each colony gave a net return of $24.04, while in 1875, our bees gave a profit, above all expense, of over 400 per cent. of their entire value in the spring. Mr. Fisk Bangs, who graduated at our College one year since, purchased last spring seven colonies of bees. The proceeds of these seven colonies have more than paid all ex- penses, including first cost of bees, in honey sold, while there are now sixteen colonies, as clear gain, if we do not count the labor, and we hardly need do so, as it has in no wise interfered with the regular duties of the owner. Several farmers of our State who possess good apiaries and good improved farms, have told me that their apiaries were more profitable than all the remainder of their farms. Who will doubt the profits of apiculture in the face of friend Doolittle’s experience? He has realized $6,000, in five years, simply from the honey taken from fifty colonies. This $6,000 is in excess of all expenses except his own time. Add to this the increase of stocks, and then remember that one man can easily care for 100 colo- nies, and we have a graphic picture of apiarian profits. Bee- keeping made Adam Grimm a wealthy man. It brought to MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 15 Capt. Hetherington over $10,000 as the cash receipts of a single year’s honey-crop. It enabled Mr. Harbison, so it is reported, to ship trom his own apiary, eleven car-loads of comb-honey as the product of a single season. What greater recommendation has any pursuit? Opportunity for money- making, even with hardships and privations, is attractive and seldom disregarded ; such opportunity with labor that brings, in itse7, constant delight, is surely worthy of attention. EXCELLENCE AS AN AMATEUR PURSUIT. Again, there is no business, and I speak from experience, that serves so well as an avocation. It offers additional funds to the poorly paid, out-door air to the clerk and. office-hand, healthful exercise to the person of sedentary habits, and su- perb recreation to the student or professional man, and especially to him whose life-work is of that dull, hum-drum, routine order that seems to rob life of all zest. The labor, too, required in keeping bees, can, with a little thought and management, be so planned, if but few colonies are kept, as not to infringe upon the time demanded by the regular occu- pation. Indeed, I have never been more heartily thanked, than by such persons as named above, and that, too, because I called them to consider—which usually means to adopt— the pleasing duties of the apiary. ADAPTATION TO WOMEN. Apiculture may also bring succor to those whom society has not been over-ready to favor—our women. Widowed mothers, dependent girls, the weak and the feeble, ad? may find a blessing in the easy, pleasant, and profitable labors ot the apiary. Of course, women who lack vigor and health, can care for but very few colonies, and must have sufficient strength to bend over and lift the small-sized frames of comb when loaded with honey, and to carry empty hives. With the proper thought and management, full colonies need never be lifted, nor work done in the hot sunshine. Yet right here let me add, and emphasize the truth, that only those who will let energetic thought and skiliful plan, and above all promptitude and persistence, make up for physical weak- 16 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. ness, should enlist as apiarists. Usually a stronger body, and improved health, the results of pure air, sunshine, and exercise, will make each successive day’s labor more easy, and will permit a corresponding growth in the size of the apiary for each successive season. One of the most noted apiarists, not only in America but in the world, sought in bee-keeping her lost health, ana found not only health, but reputation and influence. Some ot the most successful apiarists in our country are women. Of these, many were led to adopt the pursuit because of waning health, grasping at this as the last and successful weapon with which to vanquish the grim mon- ster. Said “Cyula Linswik”—whose excellent and beautifully written articles have so often charmed the readers of the bee publications, and who has had five years of successful experience as an apiarist—in a paper read before our Michigan Conven- tion of March, 1877: “I would gladly purchase exemption from in-door work, on washing-day, by two days’ labor among the bees, and I find two hours’ labor at the ironing-table more fatiguing than two hours of the severest toil the apiary can exact. * * * T repeat, that apiculture offers to many women not only pleasure but profit. * * * Though the care of a few colonies means only recreation, the woman who experiments in bee-keeping somewhat extensively, will find that it means, at some seasons, genuine hard work. * * * There is risk in the business, I would not have you ignore this fact, but an experience of five years has led me to be- lieve that the risk is less than is generally supposed.” Mrs. L. B. Baker, of Lansing, Michigan, who has kept bees very successfully for four years, read an admirable paper before the same Convention, in which she said: “But I can say, having tried both,” (keeping boarding-house and apiculture,) “T give bee-keeping the preference, as more profitable, health- ful, independent and enjoyable. * * * TI find the labors of the apiary more endurable than working over a cook-stove in-doors, and more pleasant and conducive to health. * * * I believe that many of our delicate and invalid ladies would find renewed vigor of body and mind in the labors and recrea- tions of the apiary. * * * By beginning in the early spring, when the weather was cool and the work light, I be- came gradually accustomed to out-door labor, and by mid- MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 17 summer found myself as well able to endure the heat of the sun as my husband, who has been accustomed to it all his life. Previously, to attend an open-air picnic was to return with a head-ache. * * * My own experience in the apiary has been a source of interest and enjoyment far exceeding my anticipations.” Although Mrs. Baker commenced with but two colonies of bees, her net profits the first season were over $100 ; the second year but a few cents less than $300; and the third year about $250. “The proof of the pudding is in the eating ;” so, too, such words as given above, show that apiculture offers special inducements to our sisters to become either amateur or professional apiarists. ‘IMPROVES THE MIND AND THE OBSERVATION. Successful apiculture demands close and accurate observa- tion, and hard, continuous thought and study, and this, too, in the wondrous realm of nature. In all this, the apiarist receives manifold and substantial advantages. In the culti- vation of the habit of observation, a person becomes constantly more able, useful and susceptible to pleasure, results which also follow as surely on the habit of thought and study. It is hardly conceivable that the wide-awake apiarist, who is so frequently busy with his wonder-working comrades of the hive, can ever be lonely, or feel time hanging heavily on his hands. The mind is occupied, and there is no chance for ennui. The whole tendency, too, of such thought and study, where nature is the subject, is to refine the taste, elevate the desires, and ennoble manhood. Once get our youth, with their susceptible natures, engaged in such wholesome study, and we shal] have less reason to fear the vicious tendencies of the street, or the luring vices and damning influences of the saloon. Thus apiculture spreads an intellectual feast, that even the old philosophers would have coveted ; furnishes the rarest food for the observing faculties, and, best of all, by keeping its votaries face to face with the matchless creations of the All Father, must draw them toward Him “who went about doing good,” and in “ whom there was no guile.” YIELDS DELICIOUS FOOD. A last inducement to apiculture, certainly not unworthy of mention, is the offerings it brings to our tables. Health, yea, 18 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. our very lives, demand that we should eat sweets. It is a truth that our sugars, and especially our commercial syrups, are so adulterated as to be often poisonous. The apiary, in lieu of these, gives us one of the most delicious and whole- some of sweets, which has received merited praise, as food fit for the gods, from the most ancient time till the present day. To ever have within reach the beautiful, immaculate comb, or the equally grateful nectar, right from the extractor, is certainly a blessing of no mean order. We may thus supply our families and friends with a most necessary and desirable food element, and this with no cloud of fear from vile, poi- sonous adulterations. WHAT SUCCESSFUL BEE-KEEPING REQUIRES. MENTAL EFFORT. No one should commence this business who is not willing to read, think and study. To be sure, the ignorant and un- thinking may stumble on success for a time, but sooner or later, failure will set her seal upon their efforts. Those of our apiarists who have studied the hardest, observed the closest, and thought the deepest, have even passed the late terrible winters with but slight loss. Of course the novice will ask, How and what shall I study ? ; EXPERIENCE NECESSARY. Nothing will take the place of real experience. Commence with a few colonies, even one or two is best, and make the bees your companions at every possible opportunity. Note every change, whether of the bees, their development, or work, and then by earnest thought strive to divine the cause. LEARN FROM OTHERS. Great good will also come from visiting other apiarists. Note their methods and apiarian apparatus. Strive by con- versation to gain new and valuable ideas, and gratefully adopt whatever is found, by comparison, to be an improvement upon your own past system and practice. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 19 AID FROM CONVENTIONS. Attend conventions whenever distance and means render this possible. Here you will not only be made better by social intercourse with those whose occupation and study make them sympathetic and congenial, but you will find a real conserva- tory of scientific truths, valuable hints, and improved instru- ments and methods. And the apt attention—rendered possible by your own experience—which you will give to essays, discussions and private conversations, will so enrich your mind, that you will return to your home encouraged, and able to do better work, and to achieve higher success. I have attended nearly all the meetings of the Michigan Convention, and never yet when I was not well paid for all trouble and expense by the many, often very valuable, suggestions which I received. These [ would carry home, and test as com- manded by the Apostle: “ Prove all things and hold fast that which is good.” AID FROM BEE PUBLICATIONS. Every apiarist, too, should take and read at least one of the three excellent bee publications that are issued in our coun- try. It has been suggested that Francis Huber’s blindness was an advantage to him, as he thus had the assistance of two pairs of eyes, his wife’s and servant's, instead of one. So, too, of the apiarist who reads the bee publications. He has the aid of the eyes, and the brains, too, of hundreds of intel- ligent and observing bee-keepers. Who is it that squanders his money on worse than useless patents and fixtures? He who “cannot afford” to take a bee-journal. It would be invidious and uncalled for to recommend any one of these valuable papers to the exclusion of the others. Each has its peculiar excellences, and all who can, may well secure all of them to, aid and direct their ways. AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL. This, the oldest bee publication, is not only peculiar for its age, but for the ability with which it has been managed, with scarce any exception, even from its first appearance. Samuel Wagner, its founder and long its editor, had few superiors in breadth of culture, strength of judgment, and practical and 20 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. historic knowledge of apiculture. With what pleasure we remember the elegant, really classic, diction of the editorials, the dignified bearing, and freedom from asperities which marked the old American Bee Journal as it made its monthly visits fresh from the editorial supervision of Mr. Samuel Wagner. Some one has said that there is something in the very atmosphere of a scholarly gentleman, that impresses all who approach him. I have cften thought, as memory reverted to the old American Bee Journal, or as I have re-read the numbers which bear the impress of Mr. Wagner's superior learning, that, though the man is gone, the stamp of his noble character and classical culture is still on these pages, aiding, instructing, elevating, all who are so fortunate as to possess the early volumes of this periodical. I am also happy to state that the American Bee Journal is again in good hands, and that its old prestige is fully restored. Mr. Newman is an experienced editor, a man of excellent judgment and ad-- mirable balance, a man who demonstrates his dislike of crim- inations and recriminations by avoiding them ; who has no special inventions or pet theories to push, and is thus almost sure to be disinterested and unbiased in the advice he offers ; who lends his aid and favor to our Conventions, which do so much to spread apiarian knowledge. And when I add, that he brings to his editorial aid the most able, experienced and educated apiarists of the world, I surely have spoken high but just praise, of the American Bee Journal, whose enviable reputation extends even to distant lands. It is edited by Thomas G. Newman, at Chicago. GLEANINGS IN BEE CULTURE. This periodical makes up for its brief history of only five years, by the vigor and energy which has characterized it from the first. Its editor is an active apiarist, who is constantly experimenting ; a terse, able writer, and brimming-full of good nature and enthusiasm. I am free to say, that in practical apiculture I am more indebted to Mr. Root than to any other one person, except Rev. L. L. Langstroth. TI also think that, with few exceptions, he has done more for the recent advance- ment of practical apiculture than any other person in our country. Yet I have often regretted that Mr. Root is so MANUAL OF THE APIARY, 21 inimical to conventions, and that he often so stoutly praises that with which he has had so brief an experience, and must consequently know so little. This trait makes it imperative that the apiarist read discriminately, and then decide for him- self. In case of an innovation, wait for Mr. Root’s continued approval, else prove its value before general adoption. This sprightly little journal is edited by A. I. Root, Medina, Ohio. BEE-KEEPER'S MAGAZINE. I have read this periodical less, and, of course know less of it than of the others. It is well edited, and certainly has many very able contributors. Both Mr. King and Mr. Root deal largely in their own wares, and, of course, give space to their advertisement, yet, in all my dealings with them, and I have dealt largely with Mr. Root, I have ever found them prompt and reliable. The Magazine is edited by A. J. King, New York, BOOKS FOR THE APIARIST. Having read very many of the books treating of apiculture, both American and foreign, I can freely recommend such a course to others. Each book has peculiar excellences, and each one may be read with interest and profit. LANGSTROTH ON THE HONEY BEE. Of course, this treatise will ever remain a classic in bee- literature. I cannot over-estimate the benefits which I have received from the study of its pages. It was a high, but de- served encomium, which J. Hunter, of England, in his “Manual of Bee-Keeping,” paid to this work: “It is un- questionably the best bee-book in the English language.” The style of this work is so admirable, the subject matter so replete with interest, and the entire book so entertaining, that it is a desirable addition to any library, and no thought- ful, studious apiarist can well be without it. It is especially happy in detailing the methods of experimentation, and in showing with what caution the true scientist establishes prin- ciples or deduces conclusions. The work is wonderfully free from errors, and had the science and practice of apiculture remained stationary, there would have been little need of 22 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. another work ; but as some of the most important improve- ments in apiculture are not mentioned, the book alone would be a very unsatisfactory guide to the apiarist of to-day. QUINBY'S MYSTERIES OF BEE-KEEPING. This is a plain, sensible treatise, written by one of America’s most successful bee-keepers. The work has just been revised by L. C. Root, who has fully maintained its excellent charac- ter. The admirable style and eminent practicality of this work has lost nothing in the revision. Mr. Root is the son- in-law of the late Mr. Quinby, and was fully advised of the latest views and discoveries of the great bee-keeper. To these he has added the rich results of his own experience, as well as the latest discoveries and methods of the most progress- ive apiarists. KING'S TEXT-BOOK. This is a compilation of the above works, and has recently been revised, so that it is abreast of the times. It is to be regretted that the publisher did not take more pains with his work, as the typography is very poor. . A B C OF BEE-CULTURE. This work was issued in numbers, but is now complete. It is arranged in the convenient form of our cyclopzedias, is printed in fine style, on beautiful paper, and is well illustrated. I need hardly say that the style is pleasing and vigorous. The subject matter is fresh, and embodies the most recent discoveries-and inventions pertaining to bee-keeping. That it may be kept abreast of apiarian progress, the type is to be kept in position, so that each new discovery may be added as soon as made. FOREIGN WORKS. Bevan, revised by Munn, is exceedingly interesting, and shows by its able historical chapters, admirable scientific dis- quisitions, and frequent quotations and references to practical and scientific writers on bees and bee-keeping, both ancient and modern, that the writers were men of extensive reading MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 23. and great scientific ability. The book is of no practical value , to us, but to the student it will be read with great interest. Next to Langstroth, I value this work most highly of any in my library that treat of bees and bee-keeping, if I may ex- cept back volumes of the bee-publications. “The Apiary, or Bees, Bee-Hives and Bee Culture,” by Alfred Neighbour, London, is a fresh, -sprightly little work, and as the third edition has just appeared, is, of course, up with the times. The book is in nice dress, concise, and very readable, and J am glad to commend it. A less interesting work, though by no means without merit, is the “ Manual of Bee-Keeping,” by John Hunter, London. Thisisalso recent. I think these works would be received with little favor among American apiarists. They are exponents of English apiculture, which in method would seem clumsy to Americans. In fact, I think I may say that in implements. and perhaps I may add methods, the English, French, Ger- mans and Italians, are behind our American apiarists, and hence their text-books and journals compare illy with ours. I believe the many intelligent foreign apiarists who have come to this country and are now honored members of our own fraternity, will sustain this position. Foreign scientists are ahead of American, but we glean and utilize their facts and discoveries as soon as made known. Salicylic acid is discov- ered by a German to be a remedy for foul brood, yet ten times as many American as foreign apiarists know of this and practice by the knowledge. In practical fields, on the other hand, as also in skill and delicacy of invention, we are, I think, in advance. So our apiarists have little need to go abroad for either books or papers. PROMPTITUDE. Another absolute requirement of successful bee-keeping, is prompt attention to all its varied duties. Neglect is the rock on which many bee-keepers, especially farmers, find too often that they have wrecked their success. I have no doubt that more colonies die from starvation, than from all the bee maladies known to the bee-keeper. And why is this? Neglect is the apicide. I feel sure that the loss each season by absconding colonies is almost incalculable, and whom must 24 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. we blame? Neglect. The loss every summer by enforced idleness of queen and workers, just because room is denied them, is very great. Who is the guilty party? Plainly, neglect. In these and in a hundred other ways, indifference to the needs of the bees, which require but a few moments, greatly lessen the profits of apiculture. If we would be suc- cessful, promptitude must be our motto. Each colony of bees requires but very little care and attention. Our every inter- est demands that this be not denied, nor even granted grudg- ingly. The very fact that this attention is slight, renders it more liable to be neglected ; but this neglect always involves loss—often disaster. "ENTHUSIASM. Enthusiasm, or an ardent love of its duties is very desira- ble, if not an absolute requisite, to successful apiculture. To be sure, this is a quality whose growth, with even slight op- portunity, is almost sure. It only demands perseverance. The beginner, without either experience or knowledge, may meet with discouragements—unquestionably will. Swarms will be lost, colonies will fail to winter, the young apiarist will become nervous, which fact will be noted by the bees with great disfavor, and if opportunity permits, will meet re- proof more sharp than pleasant. Yet, with PERSISTENCE, all these difficulties quickly vanish. Every contingency will be foreseen and provided against, and the myriad of little workers will become as manageable and may be fondled as safely as a pet dog or cat, and the apiarist will minister to their needs with the same fearlessness and self-possession that he does to his gentlest cow or favorite horse. Persistence in the face of all those discouragements which are so sure to confront inexperience, will surely triumph. In-sooth, he who ap- preciates the beautiful and marvelous, will soon grow to love his companions of the hive, and the labor attendant upon their care and management. Nor will this love abate till it has kindled into enthusiasm. True, there may be successful apiarists who are impelled by no warmth of feeling, whose superior intelligence, sys- tem and promptitude, stand in lieu of and make amends for absence of enthusiasm. Yet I believe such are rare, and certainly they work at great disadvantage. PART FIRST. —— LHE APLAR Y: Its CARE AND MANAGEMENT. ——S— Motto :-—“Keep all Colonies Strong!” INTRODUCTION TO PART IL STARTING AN APIARY. In apiculture, as in all other pursuits, it is all-important to make a good beginning. This demands preparation on the part of the apiarist, procuring of bees, and location of his apiary. PREPARATION. Before starting in the business, the prospective bee-keeper should inform himself in the art. READ A GOOD MANUAL. To do this, he should procure some good manual, and thoroughly study, especially the practical part of the business ; and if accustomed to read, think and study, should carefully read the whole work. Otherwise, he will avoid confusion by only studying the methods of practice, leaving the principles and science, to strengthen, and be strengthened by, his expe- rience. Unless a student, he had better not take a journal till he begins the actual work, as so much unclassified informa- tion, without any experience to correct, arrange, and select, will but mystify. For the same reason, he may well be con- tent with reading a single work, till experience, and a thorough study of this one, makes him more able to discrim- inate ; and the same reasoning will preclude his taking more than one bee-periodical, until he has had at least a year’s actual experience. VISIT SOME APIARIST. In this work of self-preparation, he will find great aid in visiting the nearest successful and intelligent apiarist. If successful, such an one will have a reputation ; if intelligent, he will take the journals, and will show by his conversation that he knows of the methods and views of his brother apiarists, and above all, he will not think he knows it all, and that his is the only way to success. Learn all you can 118 MANUAL OF THE APIARY, of such an one, but always let your own judgment and com- mon sense sit ag umpire, that you make no plans or decisions that your judgment does not fully sustain. TAKE A COLLEGE COURSE. It will be most wise to take a course in some College, if this is practicable, where apiculture is thoroughly discussed. Here you will not only get the best training as to your chosen business, as you will study, see and handle, and thus will have the very best aids to decide as to methods, system and apparatus, but will also receive that general culture, which will greatly enhance life’s pleasures and usefulness, and which ever proves the best capital in any vocation. DECIDE ON A PLAN. After such a course as suggested above, it will be easy to decide as to location, hives, style of honey to raise, and gen- eral system of management. But here, ag in all the arts, all our work should be preceded by a “well- -digested plan of operations. As with the farmer and gardener, only he who works to a plan can hope for the best success. Of course, such plans will vary as we grow in wisdom and experience. A good maxim to govern all plans is, “go slow.” /A good tule, which will insure the above, “ Pay as you go.” Make the apiary pay for all improvements in advance. Demand that each year’s credits exceed its debits ; and that you may surely accomplish this, keep an accurate account of all your receipts and expenses. This will be a great aid in arranging the plans for each successive year’s operations. Above all, avoid hobbies, and be slow to adopt sweeping changes. ‘Prove all things, and hold fast that which is good.” HOW TO PROCURE OUR FIRST COLONIES. To procure colonies from which to form an apiary, it is always best to get them near at hand. We thus avoid the shock of transportation, can see the bees before we purchase, and in case there is any seeming mistake, can easily gain a personal explanation, and secure a speedy adjustment of any real wrong. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 119 KIND OF BEES TO PURCHASE. At the same price always take Italians, as undoutedly they are best. If black bees can be secured for three, or even for two dollars less per colony, by all means take them, as they can be Italianized at a profit for the difference in cost, and, in the operation, the young apiarist will gain valuable experience. Our motto, too, will demand that we only purchase strong colonies. If, as recommended, the purchaser sees the colo- nies before the bargain is closed, it will be easy to know that the colonies are strong. If the bees, as they come rushing out, remind you of Vesuvius at her best, or bring to mind the gush and rush at the nozzle of the fireman’s hose, then buy. In the hives of such colonies, all combs will be covered with bees, and in the honey season, brood will. be abundant. IN WHAT KIND OF HIVES. As plans are already made, of course it is settled as to the style of hive to be used. Now, if bees can be procured in such hives, they will be worth just as much more than though in any other hive, as it costs to make the hive and transfer the bees. This will be certainly as much as three dollars. No apiarist will tolerate, unless for experiment, two styles of hives in his apiary. Therefore, unless you find bees in such hives as you are to use, it will be best to buy them in box hives and transfer (see Chapter VII.) to your own hives, ag such bees can always be bought at reduced rates. In case the person from whom you purchase will take the hives back at a fair rate, after you have transferred the bees to your own hives, then purchase in any style of movable comb hive, as it is easier to transfer from a movable comb hive, than from a box hive. WHEN TO PURCHASE, It is safe to purchase any time in the summer. In April or May—of course you only purchase strong stocks—if in the latitude of New York or Chicago—it will be earlier further south—you can afford to pay more, as you will secure the increase both of honey and bees. If you desire to pur- chase in autumn, that you may gain by the experience of 120 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. wintering, either demand that the one of whom you purchase insure the safe wintering of the bees, or else that he reduce the selling price, at least one-third, from his rates the next April. Otherwise the novice had better wait and purchase in spring. If youare to transfer at once, it is almost imperative that you buy in spring, as it is vexatious, especially for the novice, to transfer when the hives are crowded with brood and honey. HOW MUCH TO PAY. Of course the market, which will ever be governed by supply and demand, must guide you. But to aid you, I will append what at present would be a reasonable schedule of prices almost anywhere in the United States: For box hives, crowded with black bees—lItalians would rarely be found in such hives—five dollars per colony is a fair price. For black bees in hives such as you desire to use, eight dollars would be reasonable. For pure Italians in such hives, ten dollars is not too much. If the person of whom you purchase will take back the movable hives after you transfer the bees, you can afford to pay five dollars for black bees, and seven dollars for pure Italians. If you purchase in the fall, require 333 per cent. discount on these rates. WHERE TO LOCATE. If apiculture is an avocation, then your location will be fixed by your principal business or profession. And here I may state, that if we may judge from reports which come from nearly every section of the United States, from Maine to Texas, and from Florida to Oregon, you can hardly go amiss anywhere in our goodly land. If you are to engage as a specialist, then you can select first with reference to society and climate, after which it will be well to secure a succession of natural honey-plants (Chap. XVI), by virtue of your locality. It will also be well to look for reasonable prospects of a good home market, as good home markets are,and must ever be, the most desirable. It will be desirable, too, that your neighborhood is not overstocked with bees. It is a well-established fact, that apiarists with few colonies receive relatively larger profits than those with large MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 121 apiaries. While this may be owing in part to better care, much doubtless depends on the fact that there is not an undue proportion of bees to the number of honey-plants, and conse- quent secretion of nectar. To have the undisputed monopoly of an area reaching at least four miles in every direction from your apiary, is unquestionably a great advantage. If you desire to begin two kinds of business, so that your dangers from possible misfortune may be lessened, then a small farm—especially a fruit farm—in some locality where fruit-raising is successfully practiced, will be very desirable. You thus add others of the luxuries of life to the products of your business, and at the same time may create additional pasturage for your bees by simply attending to your other business. In this case, your location becomes a more complex matter, and will demand still greater thought and attention. Some of Michigan’s most successful apiarists are also noted as successful pomologists. ° For position and arrangement of apiary see Chapter VI. 122 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. CHAPTER V. HIVES AND BOXES An early choice among the innumerable hives is of course demanded ; and here let me state with emphasis, that none of the standard hives are now covered by patents, so let no one buy rights. Success by the skillful apiarist with almost any hive is possible. Yet, without question, some hives are far superior to others, and for certain uses, and with certain persons, some hives are far preferable to others, though all may be meritorious. As a change in hives, after one is once engaged in apiculture, involves much time, labor and expense, this becomes an important question, and one worthy earnest consideration by the prospective apiarist. I shall give it a first place, and a thorough consideration, in this discussion of practical apiculture. BOX-HIVES. I feel free to say that no person who reads, thinks, and studies—and success in apiculture can be promised to no other—will ever be content to use the old box-hives: In fact, thought and intelligence, which imply an eagerness to investi- gate, are essential elements in the apiarist’s character. And to such an one a box-hive would be valued just in propor- tion to the amount of kindling-wood it contained. A very ‘serious fault with one of our principal bee-books, bic: otherwise is mainly excellent in subject matter and treatment, is the fact that it presumes its readers to be box-hive men. As well make emperors, kings, and chivalry the basis of good government, in an essay written for American readers. I shall entirely ignore box-hives in the following discussions, for I believe no sensible, intelligent apiarists, such as read books, will tolerate them, and that,supposing they would, it would be an expensive mistake, which I have no right to encourage, in fact, am bound to discourage, not only for the benefit of individuals, but also for the art itself. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 123 To be sure of success, the apiarist must be able to inspect the whole interior of the hive at his pleasure, must be able to exchange combs from one hive to another, to regulate the movements of the bees: by destroying queen-cells, by giving or withholding drone-comb, by extracting the honey, by intro- ducing queens, and by many other manipulations to be explained, which are only practicable with a movable-frame hive. MOVABLE-COMB HIVES. There are, at present, two types of the movable-camb hive in use among us, each of which is unquestionably valuable, as each has advocates among our most intelligent, successful and extensive apiarists. Each, too, has been superseded by the other, to the satisfaction of the person making the change. The kind most used consists of a box, in which hang the frames which hold the combs. The adjacent frames are so far separated that the combs, which just fill them, shall be the proper distance apart. In the other kind, the frames are wider than the comb, and when in position are close together, ‘and of themselves form two sides of a box. When in use, these frames are surrounded by a second box, without a bot- tom, which, with them, rests on a bottom board. Each of these kinds is represented by, various forms, sizes, etc., where the details are varied to suit the apiarist’s notion. Yet, I believe that all hives in present use, worthy of recommenda- tion, fall within one or the other of the above named types. THE LANGSTROTH HIVE. This (Fig. 29) is the hive most in use among Americans and Britons, if not among all who practice improved apicul- ture. Itis stated that the late Major Munn was first to invent this style of hive. He states (see Bevan, p. 37) that he first used it in 1834. But, as suggested by Neighbour in his valuable hand-book, the invention was of no avail to apiarists, as it was either unknown, or else ignored by practical men. This invention also originated independently with Rev. L. L. Langstroth, who brought it forth in 1851, so perfect, that it needed scarce any improvement ; and for this gift, as well as his able researches in apiculture, as given in. his invaluable 124 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. book, ‘‘ The Honey-Bee,” he has conferred a benefit upon our art which cannot be over-estimated, and for which we, as apiarists, cannot be too grateful. It was his book—one of my old teachers, for which I have no word of chiding—that led Fie. 29. me to some of the most delightful investigations of my life. It was his invention—the Langstroth hive—that enabled me to make those investigations. For one, I shall always revere the name of Langstroth, as a great leader in scientific: apiculture, both in America and throughout the world. His name must ever stand beside that of Dzierzon and the elder Huber. Surely this hive, which left the hands of the great master in so perfect a form, that even the details remain unchanged by many of our first bee-keepers, should ever bear his name. Thus, though I prefer and use the sizeof frame first used, I believe, by Mr. Gallup, still I use the Langstroth hive. (See Appendix, page 287). CHARACTER OF THE HIVE. The main feature of the hive should be simplicity, which would exclude doors, drawers, and traps of all kinds. The body should be made of good pine or white-wood lumber, one inch thick, thoroughly seasoned, and planed on both sides. It should be simply a plain box (Fig. 30), without top or bottom, and of a size and form to suit the apiarist. The size will depend upon our purpose. If we desire no comb-honey, or desire comb-honey in frames, the hive may contain 4,000 cubic inches. If we desire honey in boxes, it should not contain over 2,000, and may be even smaller. If the hive is MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 125 to be a two-story one—that is, one hive above a similar hive below (Fig. 29)—I prefer that it should be eighteen inches long, twelve inches wide, and twelve inches deep, inside measure. Ifsimply small frames or boxes are to be used above, I would have the hive at least two feet long. A three-fourths inch rabbet should be cut from the top of the sides or ends. Fre. 30 as the apiarist prefers, on the inside (Fig. 30,c). The rabbet may equal a little more than one-half the thickness of the board. Heavy tin strips (Fig. 33), three-fourths of an inch wide, should be tacked to the side below the rabbet, so as to reach one-fourth of an inch above the shoulder. These are to bear the frames, and are convenient, as they prevent the frames from becoming glued to the hive. We are thus able to loosen the frames without jarring the bees. I would not have hives without such tin rabbets, though some apiarists, among whom is Mr. James Heddon, of this State, whose rank as a successful apiarist is very high, do not like them. The objection to them is cost, and liability of the frames to 126 MANUAL Of THE APIARY. move when the hive is moved. But with their use we are not compelled to pry the frames loose, and are not so likely to irritate the bees, while making an examination of the con- tents of the hive, which arguments are conclusive with me. Any one who is not a skilled mechanic, especially if he has not’a buzz-saw, had better join the sides of his hives after the style of making common dry-goods boxes (Fig. 30). In this case, the sides not rabbeted should project by, else the corners will have to be stopped up where they were rabbeted. The mechanic may prefer to bevel the ends of the boards, and unite them by a miter-joint (Fig. 33). This looks a little better, otherwise is not superior to the other method. It is difficult to form accurate joints—and as everything about the hive should be accuRATE and UNIFORM—this style is not to be recommended to the general apiarist. To miter with a hand-saw unless one is very skillful, requires a perfect miter-box, and, even then, much care is required to secure perfect joints. With a buzz-saw this is easier. We have Fie. 31. Bevel-Gauge. only to make a carrier as follows: Take two boards (Fig. 31, a, 6), each one foot in length, and dove-tail them together, as though with two others you meant to make a square box. Be sure that they form a perfect right-angle. Then bevel the ends opposite the angle, and unite these with a third MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 127 board (Fig. 31, ¢), firmly nailed to the others. We thus have a triangular pyramid. Through one of the shorter faces make longitudinal slits (Fig. 31, @), so that this can be bolted firmly to the saw-table. In use, the longer face will reach the saw, and from thence will slant up and back. Along the back edge of this a narrow board (Fig. 31, e) should be nailed, which will project an inch above it. This will keep the board to be beveled in line with the carrier, and will retain the right angles. Of course the boards for the hive must be perfect rectangles, and of just the right length and width, before the bevels are cut. Such a carrier (Fig. 31) I ordered for my Barnes’ saw, from a cabinet-maker. It was made of hard wood, all three joints dove-tailed, and nicely finished, at a cost of $1.50. In sawing the ends and sides of the hive, whether by hand or with a buzz-saw, use should be made of a guide, so that perfect uniformity will be secured. THE BOTTOM BOARD. For a bottom board or stand (Fig. 32), we should have a single one-inch board (Fig. 32, 6) just as wide as the hive, and four inches longer, if the bees are to enter at the end of the hive, and as long, and four inches wider, if the bees are to enter at the side. This is nailed to two pieces of two by four, or two by two scantling (Fig. 32, a, a). Thus the hive rests two or four inches from the ground. These scantlings should extend at one end eight inches beyond the board, and these projections be beveled from the edge of the board, to the lower outer corner of the scantling. Upon these beveled edges nail a board (Fig. 32, d), which shall reach from the edge of the bottom board to the ground. We thus have the alighting-board,; whose upper edge should be beveled, so as to fit closely to the bottom board. If the hives are to be carried into a cellar to winter, this alighting-board (Fig. 31, d@) had better be separate, otherwise it is more convenient to have it attached. It may be made separate at first, or may be easily separated by sawing off the beveled portion of the scantlings. Should the apiarist desire his bees to enter at ‘the side of the hive, the scantling (Fig. 32, a, a) should run the other 128 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. way, and the alighting-board (Fig. 32, d) should be longer, and changed to the side. I have tried both, and see no dif- ference, so the matter may be controlled by the taste of the aplarist. ; For an opening to the hive (Fig. 32, c), I would bevel the middle of the edge of the bottom board, next to the inclined board. At the edge, this bevel should be three-quarters of Fie. 32. an inch deep and four inches wide. It may decrease in both width and depth as it runs back, till ata distance of four inches, it is one-half an inch wide and five thirty-seconds of an inch deep. This may terminate the opening, though the shoulder at the end may be beveled off, if desired. With this bottom board the bees are near the ground, and with the slanting board in front, even the most tired and heavily-laden will not fail to gain the hive, as they come in with their load of stores. In spring, too, many bees are saved, as they come in on windy days, by low hives and an alighting-board. Wo hive should bemore than four inches from the ground, and no hive should be without the slanting alighting-board. With this opening, too, the entrance can be MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 129 contracted in case of robbing, or entirely closed when desired, by simply moving the hive back. Some apiarists cut an opening in the side of the hive, and regulate the size by tin slides or triangular blocks (Fig. 29); others form an opening by sliding the hive forward beyond the bottom board—which I would do with the above in hot weather when storing was very rapid—but for simplicity, cheapness and convenience, I have yet to see an opening superior to the above. I think, too, I am a competent judge, as I have at least a half-dozen styles in present use. I strongly urge, too, that only this one opening be used. Auger holes about the hive, and entrances on two sides, are worse than useless. By enlarging this opening, we secure ample ventilation, even in sultry August, and when we con- tract the entrance, no bees are lost by finding the usual door closed. Some of our best bee-keepers, as Messrs. Heddon, Bald- ridge, etc., prefer that the bottom board be nailed to the hive (Fig. 39). I havesuch hives ; have had for years, but strongly object to them. They will not permit a quick clearing of the bottom board, when we give a cleansing flight in winter, or when we commence operations in spring, which, especially if there is a quart or more of dead bees, is very desirable. Nor with their use can we contract the opening in cold weather, or to stop robbing, without the blocks (Fig. 29), tins or other traps. Simplicity should be the motto in hive-making. The arguments in favor of such fastening are : Convenience in moving colonies, and in feeding, as we have not to fasten the bottoms when we desire to ship our bees, and to feed we have only to pour our liquids into the hives. Of course, such points are not essential—only matters of convenience. Let each one decide for himself, which expe- rience will enable him to do. THE COVER OF THE HIVE. The cover (Fig. 33, «) should be about six inches high, and like the lid of a trunk. The length and breadth may be the same as the body of the hive, and fit on with beveled edges (Fig. 33), the body having the outer edge beveled, and the cover the inner. If we thus join the cover and hive with 130 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. a mitered-joint, we must not be satisfied with anything less. than perfection, else in case of storms, the rain will beat into our hives, which should never be permitted. Such covers ean be fastened to the hives with hinges, or by hooks and staples. But unless the apiarist is skilled in the use of tools, or hires a mechanic to make his hives, it will be more satisfactory to make Fig. 33. . the cover just large enough (Fig. 29) to shut over and rest on shoulders formed either by nailing inch strips around the. body of the hive, one inch from the top, or else inside the cover (Fig. 29). If it is preferred to have a two-story hive,. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. .131 with the upper story (Fig. 33, 5) just like the lower (Fig. 33, ce), this (Fig. 53) may join the lower by a miter-joint, while a cover (Fig. 33, a) two inches high, may join this with a simi- lar joint. If the upper story shuts over the lower and rests ona shoulder (Fig. 29) it may still be made to take the same sized frame, by nailing pieces one-half an inch square to the corners, whose length shall equal the distance from the rabbet in the lower story to the bottom board. Now nail to these upright pieces, parallel to the rabbeted faces below, a three-eighths inch board as wide as the pieces are long. The top of these thin boards will take the place of the rabbet in the lower story. This style, which is adopted in the two-story hives as made by Mr. Langstroth (Fig. 29), will permit in the upper story the same frames as used in the lower story, while two more can be inserted. Upon this upper story a shallow cover will rest. Such covers, if desired, may be made roof-like Fie. 34. (Fig. 34), by cutting end pieces, (Fig 34, 5) in form of the gable of a house. In this case there will be two slanting boards (Fig. 34, a, a), instead of one that is horizontal, to carry off the rain. The slanting boards should project at the ends (Fig. 34, d@), for convenience in handling. In such covers we need thin, narrow ridge-boards (Fig. 34, c), to keep all perfectly dry. These covers look neat, are not so apt to check, and will dry much quicker after a rain. If we secure comb-honey in crates, and winter out-doors— in which case we shall need to protect in the Northern States —it will be convenient to have a box of the same general form as the main body of the hive, from six to eight inches deep, just large enough to set over the body of the hive and rest on shoulder-strips, and without top or bottom ; this to have such a cover as just described. Such is the arrange- 132. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. ment of Southard and Ranney, of Kalamazoo, which, on the score of simplicity and convenience, has much to recom- mend it. In the above I have said nothing about porticos (Fig. 29). If hives are shaded as they should be, these are useless, and I believe that in no case will they pay. To be sure, they are nice for spider-webs, and a shady place in which bees may cluster; but such are inconvenient places to study the wondrous fabrics of the spider, even were he a friend of the bees, and the most successful apiarist will not force his bees to hang in idle clusters about the hive. TUE FRAMES. The form and size of frames, though not quite as various as the persons who use them, are still very different. Some prefer large frames. I first used one ten by eighteen inches, and afterward a shallow frame about seven by eighteen (Fig. 29). The advantage claimed for large frames is that there are less to handle, and time is saved; yet may not smaller frames be handled so much more dexterously, especially if they are to be handled through all the long day, as to compen- sate, in part at least, for the number? The advantage of the shallow frame is, as claimed, that the bees will go into boxes more readily ; yet they are not considered so safe for out-door wintering. This is the style recommended and used by Mr. Langstroth, which fact may account for its popularity in the United States. Another frame in common use, is one about one foot square. I use one eleven inches square. The reasons that I prefer this form are, that the comb seldom breaks from the frame, the frames are convenient for nuclei and save the expense of constructing extra nucleus hives, and that these frames permit the most compact arrangement for winter and spring, and thus enable us to economize heat. By use of a division board, we can, by using eight of these frames, occupy just a cubic foot of space in spring, and by repeated experiments I have found that a hive so constructed that the bees always cover the combs during the early cold weather, always gives the best results. As the honey season comes on more can be added, till we have reached twelve, as many, I -think, as will ever be needed for brood. This was the size of MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 133: frame preferred by Mr. Gallup, and is the one used by Messrs. Davis and Doolittle, and many others of our most successful apiarists. That this size is imperative is, of course, not true ; that it combines as many desirable points as any other, I think, istrue. For apiarists who are not very strong, especially for ladies, it is beyond question superior to all others. HOW TO CONSTRUCT THE FRAMES. In this description, I shall suppose that the frames desired’ are of the form and size (Fig. 35) which I use. It will be: easy, for any who may desire, to change the form at pleasure.. Fie. 35. For the top bar (Fig. 35, a) of the frame, use a triangular strip twelve and three-quarter inches long, with each face of the: triangle one inch across. Seven-eighths of an inch from each. end of this, form a shoulder, by sawing from one angle to. within one-fourth of an inch of the opposite face, so that when the piece is split out from the end, these projections shall be just one-fourth of an inch thick throughout. For the side pieces (Fig. 35, b, 4), take strips eleven inches. long, seven-eighths of an inch wide, and one-fourth of an inch thick. Tack with small brads the end of two of these strips: firmly to the shoulder of the top-bar, taking pains that the end touches squarely against the projection. Now tack to the opposite ends or bottoms, the ends of a similar strip: (Fig. 35, d) eleven and a half inches long. We shall thus. have a square frame. If comb-foundation is to be used, and certainly it will be- by the enterprising apiarist, then the top-bar (Fig. 36, a). should be twelve and three-quarters inches by one-quarter by one inch, with a rectangular, instead of a triangular, projection 134 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. below (Fig. 36, 5), which should be one-fourth by one-eighth inch, the longest direction up and down. This should be entirely to one side of the centre, so that when the foundation Gig. 36, c) is pressed against this piece it will hang exactly rom the centre of the top-bar. If preferred, the bottom of the frame (Fig. 36, e) need not be more than half as wide or thick as described above. The timber should be thoroughly seasoned, and of the best pine or white-wood. Care should be taken that the frame be made so as to hang vertically, when. suspended on the rabbets of the hive. To secure this very important point—true Frame, also Cross-Section of Top-Bar. frames that will always hang true—they should always be made around a guide. A BLOCK FOR MAKING FRAMES. This may be made as follows: Take a rectangular board ie 37) eleven and a quarter by thirteen and a half inches. n both ends of one face of this, nail hard-wood pieces (Fig. 37, é, €) one inch square and eleven inches long, so that one end (Fig. 37, g, g) shall lack one-fourth inch of reaching the edge of the board. On the other face of the board, nail a strip (Fig. 37, ¢) four inches wide and eleven and a quarter inches long, at right-angles to it, and in such position that the ends shall just reach to the edges of the board. Midway between the one inch square pieces, screw on another hard- wood strip (Fig. 37, @) one inch square and four inches long, parallel with and three-fourths of an inch from the edge. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 135 To the bottom of this. screw a semi-oval piece of hoop-steel (Fig. 37, 5, ), which shall bend around and press against the square strips. The ends of this should not reach quite to the bottom of the board. Near the ends of this spring, fasten, by rivets. an inch strap (Fig. 37, «), which shall be straight when thus riveted. These dimensions are for frames eleven inches sqriare, inside measure, and must be varied for other sizes. To use this block, we crowd the end-bars of our frames between the steel springs (Fig. 37, 5, 5) and the square strips (Fig. 37, ¢, e); then lay on our top-bar and nail, after which we invert the block and nail the bottom-bar, as we did the top-bar. Now press down’on the strap (Fig. 37, a), which will loosen the frame, when it may be removed, all complete and true. Such a gauge not only insures perfect frames, but demands that every piece shall be cut with great accuracy. And some such arrangement should always be used in making the frames. The projecting ends of the top-bar will rest on the tins (Fig. 33), and thus the frame can be easily loosened at any time without jarring the bees, as the frames will not be glued fast, as they would in case they rested on the wooden rabbets. The danger of killing bees is also abolished by use of the tins. When the frames are in the hive there should be at least a three-sixteenths inch space between the sides and bottom of 136 “MANUAL OF THE APIARY, the frames, and the sides and bottom of the hive.’ Ever doubling this would do no harm ; though a much wider space would very likely receive comb, and be troublesome. Frames that fit close in the hive, or that reach to the bottom, are very inconvenient and undesirable. To secure against this, our lumber must be thoroughly seasoned, else when shrink- age takes place our frames may touch the’ bottom-board. The distance between the frames may be one-fourth of an inch, though a slight variation either way does no harm. Some men, of very precise habits, prefer nails or wire staples in the side of the frames, at top and bottom, which project just a quarter of an inch, so as to maintain this unvarying distance ; or staples in the bottom of the hive to secure the same end. Mr. Langstroth so arranged his frames, and Mr. Palmer, of Hart, Michigan, whose neatness is only surpassed by his suc- cess, does the same thing. I have had hives with these extra attachments, but found them no special advantage. I think we can regulate the distance with the eye, so as to meet every practical demand, and thus save the expense and trouble which the above attachments cost. COVER FOR FRAMES. Nothing that I have ever tried is equal to a quilt for this purpose. It isa good absorbent of moisture, preserves the heat in spring and winter, and can be used in summer without jarring or crushing the bees. This should be a real quilt, made of firm unbleached factory, duck, or cambric—I have used the first with entire satisfaction for four years—enclosing a thick layer of batting, and hemmed about the edges. My wife quilts and hems them on a machine. The quilting isin squares, and all is made in less than fifteen minutes. The quilt should be a little larger than the top of the hive, so that after all possible shrinkage, it will still cover closely. Thus, when this is put on, no bees can ever get above it. When we use the feeder, it may be covered by the quilt, and a flap cut in the latter, just above the hole in the feeder, enables us to feed without disturbing the bees, though I place the feeder at the end of the chamber, wherein are the bees, and have only to double the quilt back when I feed. The only objection that I know to the quilt is, that the bees will fasten propolis, MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 137 and even comb, between it and the frames, and this looks bad. A little care will make this a small objection. Mr. Langstroth used a board above the frames, which Mr. Heddon uses even now. Perhaps Mr. Heddon never used the quilts. Perhaps his love of order and neatness caused him to discard them. Still, I feel to thank Mr. A. I. Root for calling my attention to quilts. DIVISION BOARD. A close-fitting division board (Fig. 38) for contracting the chamber, is very important, and though unappreciated by many excellent apiarists, still no hive is complete without it. Fig. 38. a T find it especially valuable in winter and spring, and useful at all seasons. This is made the same form as the frames, ‘though all below the top-bar—which consists of a strip thir- teen inches long by one inch by three-eighths, and is nailed firmly to the board below—is a solid inch board (Fig. 38, 6), which is exactly one foot square, so that it fits closely to the inside of the hive. If desired, the edges (Fig. 38, ¢, c) can be beveled, as seen in the figure. When this is inserted in the hive it entirely separates the chamber into two chambers, so that an insect much smaller than a bee could not pass from the one to the other. Mr. A. J. Root makes one of cloth, chaff, ete. Yet, I think few apiarists would bother with so much machinery. Mr. W. L. Porter, Secretary of the Michigan Association, makes the board a little loose, and then inserts a rubber strip in a groove ‘sawed in the edges. This keeps the board.snug, and makes its insertion easy, even though heat may shrink or damp may swell: either the board or hive. I have not tried this, but like the suggestion. 138 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. The use of the division board is to contract the chamber in winter, to vary it so as to keep combs covered in spring, to convert the hive into a nucleus hive, and to contract the chamber in the upper-story of a two-story hive, when first adding frames to secure surplus comb-honey. THE HUBER HIVE. The other type of hives originated when Huber hinged several of his leaf or unicomb hives together, so that the frames would open like the leaves of a book ; though it has been stated that the Grecians had, in carly times, something similar. In 1866, Mr. T. F. Bingham, then of New York, improved upon the Huber hive, securing a patent on his triangular frame hive. This, so far as I can judge, was the Huber hive made practical. In 1868, Mr. M. 8. Snow, then of New York, now of Min- nesota, procured a patent on his hive, which was essentially the same as the hives now known as the Quinby and Bingham hives. Soon after, the late Mr. Quinby brought forth his hive, which is essentially the same as the above, only differing in details. No patent was obtained by Mr. Quinby, whose great heart and boundless generosity endeared him to all acquaint- ances. Those who knew him best, never tire of praising the unselfish acts and life of this noble man. If we except Mr. Langstroth, no man has probably done so much to promote the interest and growth of improved apiculture in the United States. His hive, his book, his views of wintering, his intro- duction of the bellows-smoker—a gift to apiarists—all speak his praise as a man and an apiarist. The fact that the Bingham hive, as now made, is a great favorite with those who have used it, and is pronounced by so capable a judge as Mr. Heddon, to be the best movable-comb hive in existence, that Mr. Quinby preferred this style or type of hive, that the Quinby form is used by the Hetherington brothers, Captain J. E., the prince of American apiarists, and O. J., whose neatness, precision, and mechanical skill are enough to awaken envy; that the Russell hive is but a MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 139 modification of the same type, are surely enough to awaken curiosity and bespeak a description. The Ouinby hive (Fig. 39), as used by the Hetherington brothers, consists. of a series of rectangular frames (Fig. 39) twelve by seventeen inches, outside measure. The endsof these frames are one and a half inches wide and half an inch thick. The top and bottom one inch wide and half an inch thick. The outer half of the ends projects one-fourth of an inch beyond the top and bottom. This projection is lined with sheet iron, which is inserted in a groove which runs one inch into each end of the end-pieces and are tacked by the same Fie. 39. Frame, Bottom-Board and Frame-Support of Quinby Hive. nails that. fasten the end-bars to the top and bottom-bars. This iron at thé end of the bar bends in at right-angles (Fig. 39, a, a), and extends one-fourth of an inch parallel with the top and bottom-bars. Thus, when these frames stand side. by side, the ends are close, while half-inch openings extend between the top and bottom-bars of adjacent frames. The bottom-bars, too, are one-fourth of an inch from the bottom- board. Tacked to the bottom-board, in line with the position of the back end-bars of the frames is an inch strip of sheet- iron (Fig. 39, 5, 6) sixteen inches in length. One-third of this strip, from the front edge back, is bent over so it lies not quite in contact with the second third, while the posterior third receives the tacks which hold it to the bottom-board. Now, when in use this iron flange receives the hooks on the corners of the frames, so that the frames are held firmly, and can only 140 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. be moved back and side-wise. In looking at the bees we can separate the combs at once, at any place. The chamber can be enlarged or diminished simply by adding or withdrawing frames. As the hooks are on all four corners of the frames, the frames can be either end back, or either side up. Boards with the iron hooks close the sides of the brood cavity, while a quilt covers the frames. The entrance (Fig. 39, e) is cut in the bottom-board as already explained, except that the lateral edges are kept parallel. A strip of sheet-iron (Fig. 39, @) is tacked across this, on which rest the ends of the front end-bars of the frames which stand above, and underneath which pass the bees as they come to and go from the hive. A box, without bottom and with movable top, covers all, leaving a space from four to six inches above and on all sides between it and the frames. This gives chance to pack with chaff in winter, and for side and top storing in sections or boxes in summer. The Bingham hive (Fig. 40) is not only remarkably simple, but is as remarkable for its shallow depth; the frames being only five inches high. These have no bottom-bar. The end- Fie. 40. Frames and Bottom-Board of the Bingham Hive. bars are one and a half inches wide, and the top-bar square. The nails that hold the end-bars pass into the end of the top- bar, which is usually placed diagonally, so that an edge, not a face, is below; though some are made with a face below (Fig. 40, f),to be used when comb is transferred. The frames are held together by two wires, one at each end. Each wire (Fig. 40, a) is a little longer than twice the width of the hive when the maximum number of frames areused. The ends of each wire are united and placed about nails (Fig. 40, d, 6) in MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 141 the ends of the boards (Fig. 40, c,c) which form the sides of the brood-chamber. A small stick (Fig. 40, a) spreads these wires, and brings the frames close together. A box without bottom and with movable cover, is placed about the frames. This is large enough and high enough to permit of chaff packing in winter and spring. The bottom-board may be made like the one already described. Mr. Bingham does not bevel the bottom-board, but places lath under three sides of the brood-chamber, the lath being nailed to the bottom-board —and then uses the blocks to contract the entrance (Fig. 40, y.) The advantages of this hive are, simplicity, great space above for surplus frames or boxes, capability of being placed one hive above another to any height desired, while the frames may be reversed, end for end, or bottom for top, or the whole brood-chamber turned up-side down. Thus, by doubling, we may have a depth of ten inches for winter. The objection which I have found in the similar Russell hive, is danger of killing bees in rapid handling. In the Russell hive the side-bars are halved together, and held in place by ingeniously contrived wire hooks. There are no bottom-bars. I have used none of these except the Russell. They can be manipulated with rapidity, if we care not how many bees we crush. It hurts me to killa bee, and so I find the Langstroth style more quickly manipulated. Mr. Snow, too, who was the first to make the above style of hive, has discarded it in favor of the Langstroth. His objection to the above, is the fact that the various combs are not sure to be so built as to be interchangeable. Yet that such apiarists as those above named prefer these Huber hives, after long use of the other style, is certainly not without significance. APPARATUS FOR PROCURING COMB-HONEY. Although I feel sure that extracted-honey will grow more and more into favor, yet it will never supersede the beautiful comb, which, from its exquisite flavor and attractive appear- ance, has always been, and always will be, admired.and desired. 142 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. So, no hive is complete without its arrangement of boxes, section-frames, and crates, all constructed with the view of securing this delectable comb-honey in the form that will be most irresistible. BOXES. These are for surplus comb-honey in the most salable form. They may be of any size that best suits the taste of the apiarist, and the pulse of the market. It is well that the sides of these be of glass. Such (Fig. +1) may be made as follows: For top and bottom procure soft-wood boards one-fourth of an inch thick and of the size Fie. 41. desired, one for the bottom and the other for the top of the box. Take four pieces halfan inch square and as long as the desired height of the honey-box. In two adjacent sides of these saw grooves in which may slip common glass. These are for corner pieces. Now tack with small brads the corners of the bot- tom-board to the ends of these pieces, then slide in the glass, and in similar way tack the top-board to the other ends. Through the bottom-board holes may be bored so that the bees may enter. A similar box is made by A. H. Russell, of Adrian, Mich., except that tin forms the corners. These may be made to take from one to three combs, and are certainly very attractive. If made small and set in a crate so that all could be removed at once, they would leave little to be desired. The Isham box (Fig. 42) is essentially like the Russell ; only the tin at the corners is fastened differently. Surely, all great mindsdorun in thesame’channel. Another form (Fig.43) which I find very desirable, and which I used in California (where they were introduced by Mr. Harbison) more than ten years ago, is made as follows: Dress off common lath so that they are smooth, cut off two lengths the desired height of the box, and one the desired width ; tack this last piece to the ends _ of the other two, and to the other end tack a similar strip. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 143 only half as wide. Wenow haveasquare frame. Place such frames side by side till a box is made of the desired length. To hold these together, we have now only to tack on either side one or two pieces of tin, putting a tack into each section, thus forming a compact box without ends. The end frames Fie. 42 should have a whole piece of lath for the bottom, and grooves should be cut in the bottom and top laths, so that a glass may be put in the ends. Of course there is ample chance for the bees to enter from below. Now, by placing small pieces of comb, or.artificial comb foundation, which ranks as a discovery with the movable-frame hive and honey-extractor, on the top of each frame (Fig. 43), the bees will be led to construct a separate comb in each frame, and each frame may be sold by the retail dealer separately, by simply drawing the tacks from the tins. Barker and Dicer, of Marshall, Michigan, make a very neat sectional honey-box, which is quite like the above, except that paper pasted over the frames takes the place of the tins. These, too, have wood separators as used and sold by the gentlemen named. The honey-boxes may be placed. directly on the frames, or. in case the queen makes trouble by. entering them to deposit eggs—a trouble which I have seldom 144 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. met, perhaps because I give her enough to do below—we can place strips one-fourth of an inch square between the frames and boxes. In case we work extensively for. box honey, we should have a rack or crate so made that we can remove all the boxes at once ; in which case to examine the bees we would not have to remove all the boxes separately. SURPLUS COMB-HONEY IN SMALL FRAMES. Honey in boxes, unless they consist of sections as just de- scribed, cannot compete with honey in small frames, in our present markets, and without doubt they will fall more and more into disfavor. In fact, there is no apparatus for securing comb-honey that promises so well as these sections. That they are just the thing to enable us to tickle the market is shown by their rapid growth in popular favor. Three years ago I predicted, at one of our State Conventions, that they would soon replace boxes, and was laughed at. Nearly all who then laughed, now use these sections. They are cheap, and with their use we can get more honey, and in a form that will make it irresistable. REQUISITES OF GOOD SECTIONS The wood should be white, the size small, from four to six inches square, the sections capable of being glassed, at least on the faces, not too much cut off from brood-chamber, cheap, easily made, and so arranged as to be put on or taken off the hive en masse. DESCRIPTION. The style of section which I think will soon replace all others, is casily made, as follows : For a section four inches square take a strip of clean, white veneer—cut from bass-wood, poplar or white-wood—such as is used to make berry-boxes, two inches wide and twenty inches long ; for larger sections make it proportionally longer. Make a shallow cut every four Fig. 44. « 4 Four Inches. %\ inches at right-angles to the sides—though they will do this, if asked to, at the factory. Now with a chisel (Fig. 44) four inches long, with one-eighth inch projections at right-angles MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 145 to the main blade, cut out sections on the opposite edges of the main strip—which will leave openings one-eighth inch by four inches, between the first and second shallow cut and the third and fourth. We now bend this around a square block (Fig. 45) which will just fill it, letting the ends over-lap, and drive through these over-lapping sections one or two small wrought brads on to an iron, (Fig. 45, 5) set into the block, Fie. 45. by which they will be clinched. Or, by using glue, we may dispense with the block. Now, if your market requires glassed sections, or if you wish to insert dividers, either tin or wood, glue posts one-fourth of an inch square, four in each section along the uncut sides one-eighth inch from the edges. The ends of these will just come flush with the gouged edges above and below. Now, by use of tins such as are used to fasten window-glass, these can be glassed, or if desired, each one can receive a tin or wooden separator. If this gluing in of the pieces is thought too troublesome, we may still achieve the same end by using tin separators in our crates, and then glass our sections by cutting a square glass, just the size of the section, outside measure, and with heavy white paper paste two of these glass to the sections. This makes each section perfectly close, and is the method devised by Southard and Ranney for practice the coming sea- son. A paste made of dextrine, tragacanth, or even flour, will answer to fasten the strips of paper, which need not be more than one inch wide. A little carbolic acid, or salicylic acid in solution, will keep the paste from souring. Every apiarist can make these sections for himself, and thus save freight and profits of making. They are neat, very cheap —costing but two mills each—and are made strong by use of the glued posts. They are also light. Very soon our cus- 146 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. tomers will object to buying wood and glass, if our unglassed sections of comb-honey are kept in close glassed crates. The Hetherington brothers make a very neat section, as follows: The top and bottom are each two inches wide, of one-quarter inch white pine. These receive a groove one- eighth inch from the ends, which receives the sides, one inch wide and one-eighth inch thick, which is pressed through to a central position and glued. This section is five and a half inches square. They use wooden dividers (Fig. 46, a). one- Fie. 46. ats 5 eighth of an inch thick, as long as the section, but one inch less in height, so that, below and above is'a half-inch space, which permits the bees to pass readily from one section to another. These are held by a half-inch strip of tin (Fig. 46, 6, 6), which passes through a groove (Fig. 46, c) in the ends of the dividers, and reaches half an inch farther ; then turns at right-angles and ends in a point (Fig. 46, 5), which, when in use, sticks into the top or bottom pieces ; and so the four points hold the dividers in place. When ready to sell, they insert half-inch glass in the grooves each side the narrow side- pieces, and with tins fasten glass on the faces, and have a Fria. 47. very handsome section. I think this preferable to the Russell or Isham box or section, as the one-inch strip of wood covers the part of the comb where it is fastened to the sides, which is never attractive, while the rest is all glassed. Such sec- MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 14% tions were praised in New York and Cincinnati last season as very fine and neat ; equal, if not superior, to all others. A. L. Root prefers sections made as are childien’s toy blocks, the sides fastened by a sort of mortise and tennon arrangement (Fig. 47). I have received from Mr. J ames Heddon a similar section, but neater and more finished, which is made in Vermont. These are too complex to be made without machinery, are no better for their fancy corners—in fact, they are not as strong as is desirable—and, as we cannot afford to purchase our apparatus when we can as well make it ourselves, I cannot recommend them for general use. The Phelps-Wheeler-Betsinger sections (Fig. 48) are essentially the same. The top and bottom are a little more narrow than the sides, and are nailed to them. The Wheeler section—invented and patented by Mr. Geo. T. Wheeler, Mexico,.-New York, in 1870—are remarkable for being the first (Fig. 52, H) to be used with tin separators (Fig. 52, 12). Instead of making the bottoms one-quarter of an inch nar- rower for a passage, Mr. Wheeler made an opening in the bottom, as does Mr. Russell. ‘HOW TO PLACE SECTIONS IN POSITION. There are two methods, each of which is excellent, and has, as it well may, earnest adyocates—one by use of crates, the other by frames. HONEY IN FRAMES. I prefer this method, perhaps because I have used it most. These frames (Fig. 49) are made the same size as the frames in the brood-chamber, except that they are made of strips two inches wide, and one-fourth of an inch thick, though the bottom- bar is a quarter of an inch narrower, so that when two frames are side by side, there is one-fourth of an inch space between, 148 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. the bottom bars, though the top and side pieces are close to- gether. The sections are of such a size (Fig. 50, A) that four, or six, or nine, etc., will just fill one of the large frames. Nailed to one side of each large frame are two tin strips (Hig. 50, ¢, t’) as long as the frame, and as wide into one inch as are the sections. These are tacked half an inch from the top and the bottom of the large frames, and so are opposite the sections, thus permitting the bees to pass readily from one tier of sections to another, as do the narrower top and Fie. 49. bottom-bars of the sections, from those below to those above. I learned of such an arrangement of sections from A. I. Root. Captain Hetherington tells me that Mr. Quinby used them years ago. The tin arrangement, though unlike Mr. Wheeler's (Fig. 52, A), would be readily suggested by it. It is more trouble to make these frames if we have the tins set in so as just to come flush with the edge of the end-bars of the frames, but then the frames would hang close together, and would not be so stuck together with propolis. These may be hung in the second story of a two-story hive, and just so many as to fill the same—my hives will take nine—or they can be put below, beside the brood-combs. Mr. Doolittle, in case he hangs these below, inserts a perforated division-board, MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 149: so that the queen will not enter the sections and layeggs. I used them very successfully last summer without division- boards, and neither brood nor pollen were placed in a single cell. Perhaps wider tins would prevent this should it occur. In long hives—the “ New Idea’”—which I find very satisfac- tory, after several years’ trial, especially for extracted honey —I have used these frames of sections, and with the best success. The Italians entered them at once, and filled them even more quickly than other bees filled the sections in the upper story. In fact, one: Fie. 50. great advantage of these sections in the frames is the obvious and ample passage-ways, inviting the bees to enter them. But in our desire to make ample and inviting open- ings, caution is required that we do not over-do the matter, and invite the queen to injurious intrusion. So we have Charybdis and Scylla, and must, by study, learn to so steer: between, as to avoid both dangers. | RACKS. These are to use in lieu of large frames, to hold sections,. and are very convenient when we wish to set the sections only ane deep above the brood-chamber. Though, if desired, we- 150 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. can place one rack above another, and so have sections two, and even three deep. Southard and Ranney, of Kalamazoo, use a very neat rack (Fig. 51), in which they use the thin veneer sections which we recommend as superior to all others for the general apiarist. Fie. 51. i G TATUM ATT, Ge H They have used these with excellent success, but without separators, which they wish to insert. Perhaps by taking out the board partitions (Fig. 51, B, B), and putting tin separa- tors the other way across, they would accomplish their object. In this case, the ends of the adjacent sections would not be separated, and the width of the rack would just accommodate two, three, or four sections, to be governed by size of hive and sections. The sheet-iron rests (Fig. 51, H, H, H)- Fia. 52. which, with their bent edges, just raise the rack one-fourth of an inch from the brood frames, would then run the other MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 151 way, and give the requisite strength. Thus, the tins would not be liable to bend, as they would if run the shorter way of the rack. The end-board, too (Fig. 51. A), would be a side- board, and the strips (Fig. 51, G@, G@), with the intervening glass, would be at the ends. The Wheeler rack (Fig. 52) simply holds the sections, while each section is glassed separately. Captain Hetherington sets a rack of sections above the frames, and stands sections one above the other on the side for side storing. Mr. Doolittle makes a rack by placing frames, such as J have described—except they are only half as high, and hold but two sections—side by side, where they are held by tacking a stick on top across each end of the row. He also places two tiers, two deep, at each end of the brood- chamber, if he desires to give so much room. All apiarists who desiré to work for comb honey which will sell, will certainly use the sections, and either adjust them by use of frames or crates. FOOT-POWER SAW. Every apiarist who keeps upwards of fifty colonies of bees, and makes apiculture a specialty, will find a foot power saw a very valuable apparatus. T have now used the admirable combined foot-power saw of W. F. & John Barnes for a year, and find that it grows in value each month. It permits rapid work, insures uniformity, and enables the apiarist to give a finish to his work that would rival that of the cabinet-maker. Those who procure such a machine should learn to file and set the saws, and should never run the machine when not in perfect order. 152 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. CHAPTER VI. POSITION AND ARRANGEMENT OF APIARY. As it is desirable to have our apiary grounds so fixed as to give the best results, and as this costs some money and more labor, it should be done once for all. As plan and execution in this direction must needs precede even the purchase of becs, this subject deserves an early consideration. Hence, we will proceed to consider position, arrangement of grounds, and preparation for each individual colony. POSITION. Of course, it is of first importance that the apiary be near at hand. In cityor village this isimperative. In the country or at suburban homes, we have more choice, but close proximity to the house is of much importance. In a city, it may be necessary to follow friend Muth’s example, and locate on the house-tops, where, despite the inconvenience, we may achieve success. The lay of the ground is not important, though if a hill, it should not be very steep. It may slope in any direction, but better any way than toward the north. ARRANGEMENT OF GROUNDS. Unless sandy, these should be well drained. If a grove offers inviting shade, accept it, but trim high to avoid damp. Such a grove could soon be formed of bass-wood and tulip trees, which, as we shall see, are very desirable, as their bloom offers plenteous and most delicious honey. Even Virgil urges shade of palm and olive, also that we screen the bees from winds. Wind-screens are very desirable, especially on the windward side. Such a screen may be formed of a tall board fence, which, if it surrounds the grounds, will also serve to protect against thieves. Yet these are gloomy and forbidding, and will be eschewed by the apiarist who has an eye to xsthetics. Ever-green screens, either of Norway spruce, Austrian or other pine, or arbor vite, each or all, are not only very effective, but are quickly grown, inexpensive, and add. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 153 greatly to the beauty of the grounds. If the apiary is large, a small, neat, inexpensive house, in the centre of the apiary grounds, is indispensable. This will serve in winter as a shop for making hives, frames, etc., and as a store-house for honey, while in summer it will be used for extracting, transferring, storing, bottling, etc. In building this, it will be well to con- struct a frost-proof, thoroughly drained, dark, and well: ventilated cellar. To secure the thorough ventilation, pass a tube, which may be made of tile, from near the bottom, through the earth to the surface; and another, from near the bottom, to the chimney or stove-pipe above. PREPARATION FOR EACH COLONY. Virgil was right in recommending shade for each colony. Bees are forced to cluster outside the hive, where the hives are subjected to the full force of the sun’s rays. By the intense heat, the temperature inside becomes like that of an oven, and the wonder is that they do not desert entirely. I have known hives, thus unprotected, to be covered by bees, idling outside, when by simply shading the hives, all would go merrily to work. The combs, too, and foundation especially, are liable, in unshaded hives, to melt and fall down, which is very damaging tothe bees, and very vexatious to the apiarist. The remedy for all this is to always have the hives so situated that they will be entirely shaded all through the heat of the day. This might be done by constructing a shed or house, but these are expensive and inconvenient, and, there- fore, to be discarded. Perhaps the Coe house-apiary (Chap. XVIID may prove an exception; but, as yet, we have no reliable assurance of the fact. If the apiarist has a convenient grove, this may be trimmed high, so as not to be damp, and will fulfill every requirement. So arrange the hives that while they are shaded through all the heat of the day, they wili receive the sun’s rays early and late, and thus the bees will work more hours. I always face my hives tothe east. Ifno grove is at command, the hives may be placed on the north of a Con grape-vine, or other vigorous variety, as the apiarist may prefer. This should be trained to a trellis, which may be made by setting two posts, either of cedar or oak. Let these extend four or five feet above the ground, and be three or four feet apart. Connect them at intervals of 154 ‘MANUAL OF THE APIARY. eighteen inches with three galvanized wires, the last one being at the top of the posts. Thus we can have shade and grapes, and can see for ourselves that bees do not injure grapes. If preferred, we may use evergreens for this purpose, which can be kept low, and trimmed square and close on the north. These can be got at once, and are superior in that they furnish ample shade at all seasons. Norway spruce is the best. ‘These should be at least six feet apart. A. I. Root’s idea of having the vines of each succeeding row divide the spaces of the previous row, in quincunx order, is very good; though I should prefer the rows in this case to be four, instead of three feet apart, especially with ever-greens. Until protecting shade can be thus permanently secured, boards should be arranged for temporary protection. Many apiarists economize by using fruit trees for this purpose, which, from their spreading tops, answer very well. Mr. A. I. Root’s idea of having sawdust under and about the hives is, I think, a good one. The hives of the Michigan Agricultural College (Fig. 53) are protected by evergreens, trimmed close on the north side. A space four feet by six, north of the shrubs, was then dug out toa depth of four inches, and filled with sawdust (Fig. 53, 7), underlying which were old bricks, so that nothing would grow up through the sawdust. The sawdust thus extends one foot back, or west of the hive, three feet north, and the same distance to the east or front side of the hive. This makes it neat about the hive, and largely removes the danger of losing the queen in handling the bees ; as should she fall outside the hive, the sharp-sighted apiarist would be very likely indeed to see her. My. J. H. Nellis, the able Secretary of the North-Hastern Bee-Keepers’ Association, objects to sawdust, as he thinks it rots too quickly, and blows about badly. He would use sand or gravel instead. I have tried both gravel and sawdust, and prefer the latter, as explained above. By having the sawdust a little below the general surface, and adding a little once in four or five years, it keeps all nice and agreeable. After the evergreens are well started, all the space between the saw- dust areas should be in grass, and kept neatly mown. This takes but a little time, and makes the apiary always pleasant and inviting. St or MANUAL OF THE APIARY. hy =] tts titae, mi i i i Fie. 53. 156 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. CHAPTER VIL. TO TRANSFER BEES. As you may have purchased your bees in box hives, and so, of course, will desire to transfer them immediately into movable-frame hives, or, as already suggested, you may wish to transfer from one movable-frame to another, I will now pro- ceed to describe the process. The best time to transfer is early in the season, when there is but little honey in the hives, though it may be done at any time, if sufficient caution is used ; still it should never be done except on warm days, when the bees are actively engaged in storing. After the bees are busy at work, approach the old hive, blow a little smoke into the entrance to quiet the bees, then carry the hive off a few feet, and turn it bottom up. Place a box over the hive—it will make no difference whether it fits it close or not, if the bees are so smoked as to be thoroughly alarmed—and with a stick rap on the lower hive for about twenty minutes. The bees will fill with honey and go with the queen into the upper hive and cluster. If towards the last we carefully set the box off once or twice, and vigorously shake the hive, and then replace the box, we will hasten the emigration of the bees, and make it more complete. I got this suggestion from Mr. Baldridge. A few young bees will still remain in the old hive, but these will do. no harm. Now put the box on the old stand, leaving the edge raised so that the bees which were out may enter, and so all the bees can get air. If other bees do not trouble, as they usually will not if busily gathering, we can proceed in the open air. If they do we must go into sqme room. I have frequently transferred the comb in my kitchen, and often in a barn. Now knock the old hive apart, eut the combs from the sides, and get the combs out of the old hive with just as little breakage as possible. Mr. Baldridge, if transferring in MANUAL OF THE APIARY. f 157 spring, saws the combs and cross-sticks loose from the sides, turns the hive into the natural position, then strikes against the top of the hive with a hammer till the fastenings are broken loose, when he lifts the hive, and the combs are all free and in convenient shape for rapid work. We now need a barrel, set on end, on which we place a board fifteen to twenty inches square, covered with several thicknesses of cloth. Some apiarists think the cloth useless, but it serves, I think, to prevent injury to comb, brood or honey. We now place a comb on this cloth, and a frame on the comb, and cut out the comb the size of the inside of the frame, taking pains to save all the brood. Now crowd the frame over the comb, so thatthe latter will be in the same position that it was when in the old hive ; that is, so the honey will be above—the position is not very important—then fasten the comb in the frame, by winding about all one or two small wires or pieces of wrapping twine. To raise the frame and comb before fastening, raise the board beneath till the frame is vertical. Set this frame in the new hive, and proceed with the others in the same way till we have all the worker-comb— that with small cells—fastened in, To secure the pieces, which we shall find abundant at the end, take thin pieces of wood, one-half inch wide and a trifle longer than the frame is deep, place these in pairs either side the comb, extending up and down, and enough to hold the pieces secure till the bees shall fasten them, and secure the strips by winding with small wire, just above and below the frame, or else tack them to the frame with small tacks. Captain Hetherington has invented and practices a very neat method of fastening comb into frames. In constructing his frames, he bores small holes through the top, side, and bottom-bars of his frames, about two inches apart; these holes are just large encugh to permit the passage of the long spines of the hawthorn. Now, in transferring comb, he has but to stick these thorns through into the comb to hold it securely. He can also use all the pieces, and still make a neat and secure frame of comb. He finds this arrangement convenient, too, in strengthening insecure combs. In answer to my inquiry, this gentleman said it paid well to bore such holes in all his frames, which are eleven by sixteen inches, 158 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. inside measure. I discarded such frames because of the liability of the comb to fall out. Mr. Baldridge makes wads of comb, or comb-cappings, which he finds good, and by pressing these against the edges of the comb he wishes to fasten, he fastens them to the frames, quickly and securely. Having fastened all the worker-comb that we can into the frames—of course all the other, and all bright drone- comb, will be preserved for use as guide-comb—and placed the frames in the new hive—these should be put together if they contain brood, especially if the colony is not very strong, and the empty frames to one side—we then place our hive on the stand, pushing it forward so that the bees can enter anywhere along the alighting-board, and then shake all the bees from the box, and any young bees that may have clustered on any part of the old hive, or on the floor or ground, where we transferred the comb, immediately in front. They will enter at once and soon be at work, all the busier for having passed “from:the old house into the new.” In two or three days, remove the wires or strings and sticks, when we shall find the combs all fastened and smoothed off, and the bees as busily engaged as though their present home had always been the seat of their labors. In case we practice the methods of either Captain Hetherington or Mr. Baldridge, there will be nothing to remove, and we need only go and congratulate the bees in view of their new and improved home. Of course, in transferring from one frame to another, the matter is much simplified. In this case, after thoroughly smoking the bees, we have but to lift the frames, and shake or brush the bees into the new hive. For a brush, a chicken or turkey wing, or a large wing or tail feather from a turkey, goose or peacock, serves admirably. . Now, cut out the comb in the best form to accommodate the new frames, and fasten as elready suggested. After the combs are all transferred, shake all remaining bees in front of the new hive, which has already been placed on the stand previously occupied by the old hive. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 159. CHAPTER VIII. FEEDING AND FEEDERS. As already stated, it is only when the worker-bees are. storing that the queen deposits to the full extent of her capa- bility, and that brood-rearing is at its height. In fact, when storing ceases, general indolence characterizes the hive. Hence, if we would achieve the best success, we must keep: the workers active, even before gathering commences, as also in the interims of honey secretion by the flowers ; and to do this we must feed sparingly before the advent of bloom in the spring, and whenever the neuters are forced to idleness during any part of the season, by the ab- sence of honey-producing flowers. For a number of years, I have tried experiments in this direction by feeding a portion of my colonies early in the season, and in the intervals of honey-gathering, and always with marked results in favor of the practice. Every apiarist, whether novice or veteran, will receive ample reward by practicing stimulative feeding early in the season ; then his hive at the dawn of the white clover era will be redundant with bees, well filled with brood, and in just the trim to receive a bountiful harvest of this most delicious nectar. Feeding, too, is often necessary to secure sufficient’ stores for winter—for no apiarist, worthy the name, will suffer his faithful, willing subjects to starve, when so little care and’ expense will prevent it. HOW MUCH TO FEED. If we only wish to stimulate, the amount fed need not be great. A half pound a day, or even less, will be all that is necessary to encourage the bees to active ‘preparation for the good time coming. For information in regard to supplying stores for winter see Chapter XVII. 160 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. WHAT TO FEED. For this purpose I would feed coffee A sugar, reduced to the consistency of honey, or else extracted honey kept over from the previous year. The price of the latter will decide which is the most profitable. Honey, too, that has been drained or forced out of cappings, etc., is good, and only good to feed. Many advise feeding the poorer grades of sugar in spring. My own experience makes me question the policy of ever using such feed for bees. The policy, too, of feeding glucose I much question. In all. feeding, unless extracted honey is what we are using, we cannot exercise too great care that such feed is not carried to the surplus boxes. Only let Fia. 54. iii Division-Board Feeder. Lower part of the face of the can removed, to show float, etc. our customers once taste sugar in their comb-honey, and not only is our own reputation gone, but the whole fraternity is injured. In case we wish to have our combs in the sections filled or capped, we must feed extracted honey, which may often be done with great advantage. HOW TO FEED. The requisites of a good feeder are: Cheapness, a form to admit quick feeding, to permit no loss of heat, and so ar- ranged that we can feed without in any way disturbing the bees. The feeder (Fig. 54) which I have used with the best MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 161 satisfaction, is a modified division-board, the top-bar of which (Fig. 54, b) is two inches wide. From the upper central portion, beneath the top-bar, a rectangular piece, the size of an oyster-can, is replaced with an oyster-can (Fig 54, g), after the top of the latter has been removed.’ A vertical piece of wood (Fig. 54, d) is fitted into the can so as to separate a space about one inch square, on one side from the balance of the chamber. This piece does not reach quite to the bottom of the can, there being a one-eighth inch space beneath. In the top-bar there is an opening (Fig. 54, e) just above the Fie. 55. Simplicity Bee-Feeder. smaller space below. In the larger space ‘is a wooden float (Fig. 54, 7) full of holes.. On one side, opposite the larger chamber of the can, a half-inch piece of the top (Fig. 54, c) is cut off, so that the bees can pass between the can and top-bar on to the float, where they can sip the feed. The feed is turned into the hole in the top-bar (Fig. 54, e), and without touching a bee, passes down under the vertical strip (Fig. 54, d) and raises the float (Fig. 54, f). The can may be tacked to the board at the ends near the top. Two or three tacks through the can into the vertical piece (Fig. 54, d) will hold the latter firmly in place ; or the top-bar may press on the 162 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. vertical piece so that it cannot move. Crowding a narrow piece of woolen cloth between the can and board, and nailing a similar strip around the beveled edge of the division-board makes all snug. One of our students suggests the name “Perfection” for this feeder. The feeder is placed at the end of the brood-chamber (page 137), and the top-bar covered by the quilt. To feed, we have only to fold the quilt over, when with a tea-pot we pour the feed into the hole in the top-bar. If a honey-board is used, there must be a hole in this just above the hole in the division-board feeder. In either case, no bees can escape, the heat is confined, and our division-board feeder is but little more expensive than a di- vision-board alone. Some apiarists prefer a quart tin can with finely perforated cover. This is filled with liquid, the cover put on, and the whole quickly inverted and set above a hole in the quilt. Owing to the pressure of the air, the liquid will not descend so rapidly that the bees cannot sip it up. Many other styles of feeders are in use, as the ‘: Simplici- ty’ and ‘“ Boss,” but I have yet to see one that in all respects equals the one figured and described above. The best time to feed is just at night-fall. In this case the feed will be‘carried away before the nextday, and the danger to weak colonies from robbing ig not so great. In feeding during the cold days of April, all should be close above the bees to economize the heat. In all feeding, care is requisite that we may not spill the feed about the apiary, as this may, and very generally will, induce robbing. MANUAL OF. THE APIARY. 163 CHAPTER IX. QUEEN REARING. Suppose the queen is laying two thousand eggs a day, and that the full number of bees is forty thousand, or even more— though the bees are liable to so many accidents, and as the queen does not always lay to her full capacity, it is quite probable that this is about an average number—it will be seen that each day that a colony is without a queen there is a loss equal to about one-twentieth of the working force of the colony, and this is a compound loss, as the aggregate loss of any day is its special loss, augmented by the several losses of the previous days. Now, as queens are liable to die, to be- come impotent, and as the act of increasing colonies demands the absence of queens, unless the apiarist has extra ones at his command, it is imperative, would we secure the best results, to ever have at hand extra queens. So the young apiarist must early learn HOW TO REAR QUEENS. As queens may be needed by the last of May, preparations looking to the early rearing of queens must commence early. When preparing the colonies for winter the previous autumn, be sure to place some drone-comb somewhere near the centre of the colony that has given the best results the previous season. In‘ March, and certainly by the first of April, see that all colonies have plenty of bee-bread. If necessary, place unbolted flour, that of rye or oats is best, in shallow troughs near the hives. Jt may be well to give the whole apiary the benefit of such feeding before the flowers yield pollen. Yet, T have found that here in Central Michigan, bees can usually. gather pollen by the first week of April, which I think is as early as they should be allowed to fly, and, in fact, as early as they will fly with sufficient regularity to make it pay to feed 164 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. the meal. I much question, after some years of experiment, if it ever pays to give the bees a substitute for pollen. The colony under consideration, should be given frames con- taining bee-bread which was stored the previous year. At the same time, March or April, commence stimulative feeding. If you have another colony equally good with the first, also give that the pollen, and commence giving it honey or syrup, but only ‘worker-comb should be in the brood-chamber. This will pre- vent the close in-breeding which would of necessity occur if both queens and drones were reared in the same colony ; and which, though regarded as deleterious in the breeding of all animals, should be practiced in case one single queen is of ° ‘decided superiority to all others of the apiary. Very likely in April, drone-eggs will be laid in drone-comb. T have had drones flying on the first of May. As soon as the drones commence to hatch out, remove the queen and all eggs and uncapped brood from some good, strong colony, and replace it with eggs or brood just hatched from the colony that is being fed, or if two equally good colonies have been stimulated, from the one in which no drone-comb was placed. The queen which has been removed may be used in making a new colony, in manner soon to be described under “dividing or increasing the number of colonies.” This queenless colony will immediately commence forming queen-cells (Fig. 56). ‘Sometimes these are formed to the number of fifteen or twenty, and they are started, too, in a full, vigorous colony, in fact, under the most favorable conditions. Cutting off edges of the comb, or cutting holes in the same where there are eggs or larvee just hatched, will almost always insure the starting of queen-cells in such places. It will be noticed, too, that our queens are started from eggs or from larve but just hatched, as we have given the bees no other, and so are fed the royal pabulum from the first. Thus, we have met every ‘possible requisite to secure the most superior queens. By removal of the queen we also secure a large number of cells, while if we waited for the bees to start the cells preparatory to natural swarming, in which case we secure the two desirable ‘conditions named above, we shall probably fail to secure so many cells, and may have to wait longer than we can afford. Even the apiarist who keeps black bees and desires no MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 1655 others, or who has only pure Italians, will still find that it pays to practice this selection, for, as with the poultry fancier, or the breeder of our larger domestic animals, so, too, the apiarist is ever observing some individuals of marked supe- Tiority, and he who carefully selects such queens to breed from, will be the one whose profits will make him rejoice,. and whose apiary will be worthy of all commendation. As will be patent to all, by the above process we exercise a care in breeding which is not surpassed by the best breeders’ of horses. and cattle, and which no wise apiarist will ever neglect. After we have removed all the queen-cells, in manner soon to be described, we can again ‘supply eggs, or newly-hatched larvee—always from those queens which close observation has shown to be the most vigorous and prolific in the apiary—and thus keep the same queenless colony or colonies, engaged in starting queen-cells till we have all we desire. Yet we must not fail to keep this colony strong by the addition of capped brood, which we may take from any hive as most convenient. I have good reason to believe that queen-cells should not be started after the first of September, as I have observed that late queens are not.only less prolific, but shorter lived. In nature, late queens are rarely produced, and if it is true that they are inferior, it might be explained in the fact, that the ovaries remain so long inactive. As queens that are long: unmated are utterly worthless, so, too, mated queens long: inactive are enfeebled. In a week the cells are capped, and the apiarist is ready to. form his NUCLEI. A nucleus is simply a miniature colony of bees—a hive and colony on a small scale, for the purpose of rearing and keeping queens. We want the queens, but can afford to each nucleus only a few bees. The nucleus hive, if we use frames. not more than one foot square, need be nothing more than an ordinary hive, with chamber confined by a division-board to the capacity of three frames. If our frames are large, then it may be thought best to construct special nucleus hives. These are small hives, need not be more than six inches each. way, that is, in length, breadth, and thickness, and made. to: 166 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. contain from four to six frames of corresponding size. These frames are filled with comb. I have for the last two or three years used the first named style of nucleus hive, and have found it advantageous to have a few long hives made, each to contain five chambers, while each chamber is entirely separate from the one next to it, is five inches wide, and is covered by a separate, close-fitting board, and the whole by a common cover. The entrance for the two end chambers is at the ends near the same side of the hive. The middle chamber has its entrance at the middle of the side near which are the end entrances, while the other two chambers open on the opposite side, as far apart as is possible. The outside might be painted different colors to correspond with the divisions, if thought necessary, especially on the side with two openings. Yet I have never taken this precaution, nor have I been troubled much ‘by losing queens. They have almost invariably entered their own apartments when return- ing from their wedding tour. These hives I use to keep queens during the summer. Except the apiarist engages in queen-rearing extensively as a business, I doubt the propriety of building such special nucleus hives. Theasual hives are good property to have in the apiary, will soon be needed, and may be economically used for all nuclei. In spring I make use of my hives which are prepared for prospective summer use, for my nuclei. Now go to different hives of the apiary, and take out three frames for each nucleus, at least one of which has brood, and so on, till there are as many nuclei prepared as you have queen-cells to dispose of. The bees should be left adhering to the frames of comb, only we must be certain that the queen is not among them, as this would take the queen from where she is most needed, and would lead to the sure destruc- tion of one queen-cell. To be sure of this, never take such frames till you have seen the queen, that you may be sure she is left behind. I usually shake off into the nucleus the bees from one or two more frames, so that, even after the old bees have returned, there will still be a sufficient number of | young bees left in the nucleus to keep the temperature at a proper height. If any desire the nuclei with smaller frames, these frames must of course be filled with comb, and then we can shake bees immediately into the nuclei, as given above, MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 167 till they shall have sufficient to preserve a proper temperature. In this case the queen-cell should be inserted just before the bees are added; in the other case, either before or after. Such special articles about the apiary are costly and incon- venient. I believe that I should use hives even with the largest frames for nuclei. In this case we should need to give more bees. To insert the queen-cell—for we are now to give one to each nucleus, so we can never form more nuclei than we have capped queen-cells—we first cut them out, commencing to cut on either side the base of the cell, at least one-half inch distant, we must not in the least compress the cell, then cutting up and out for two inches, then across oppo- site the cell. This leaves the cell attached to a wedge- Fig. 56. shaped piece of comb (Fig. 56), whose apex is next the cell. “A similar cut in the middle frame of the nucleus, which in ease of the regular frames is the one containing brood, will furnish an opening to receive the wedge containing the cell. The comb should also be cut away beneath (Fig. 56), so that the cell cannot be compressed. After all the nuclei have received their cells and bees, they have only to be set in a shady place and watched to see that sufficient bees remain. Should too many leave, give them more by removing the cover 168 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. and shaking a frame loaded with bees over the nucleus ; keep the opening nearly closed, and cover the bees with a quilt. The main caution in all this zs to be sure not to get any old queen ina nucleus. In two or three days the queens will hatch, and in a week longer will have become fertilized, and that, too, in case of the first queens, by selected drones, for as yet there are no other in the apiary, and the apiarist will possess from ten to thirty-five queens, which will prove his best stock in trade. I cannot over-estimate the advantage of ever having extra queens. To secure pure mating later, we must cut all drone-comb from inferior colonies, so that they shall rear no drones. If drone larvee are in uncapped cells, they may be killed by sprinkling the comb with cold water. By giving the jet of water some force they may be washed out, or we may throw them out with the extractor, then use the comb for starters in our sections. By keeping empty frames, and empty cells in the nuclei, the bees may be kept active ; yet with so few bees, one cannot expect very much from the nu- clei. After cutting all the queen-cells from our old hive, we can again insert eggs, as above suggested, and obtain another lot of cells, or, if we have a sufficient number, we can leave a single queen-cell, and this colony will soon be the happy pos- sessor of a queen, and just as flourishing as if the even tenor of its ways had not been disturbed. SHALL WE CLIP THE QUEEN’S WING? Tn the above operation, as in many other manipulations of the hive, we shall often gain sight of the queen, and can, if we desire, clip her wing, 7f she has met the drone, that in no. case she shall lead the colony away to parts unknown. This. does not injure the queen, as some have claimed. General Adair once stated that such treatment injured the queen, as it cut off some of the air-tubes, which view was approved by so excellent a naturalist as Dr. Packard. Yet we are sure that this is all a mistake. The air-tube and blood-vessel, as we have seen, go to the wings to carry nourishment to these members. With the wing goes the necessity of nourishment and the need of the tubes. As well say that the amputation of the human leg or arm would enfeeble the constitution, as. it would cut off the supply of blood. MANUAL OF TIE APIARY. 169 Many of our best apiarists have practiced this clipping of the queen’s wings for years. Yet, these queens show no dimi- nution of vigor; we should suppose they would be even more vigorous, as useless organs are always nourished at the expense of the organism, and if entirely useless, are seldom long con- tinued by nature. The ants set us an example in this matter, as they bite the wings off their queens, after mating has trans- pired. They mean that the queen ant shall remain at home nolens volens, and why shall not we require the same of the queen bee? Were it not for the necessity of swarming in na- ture, we should doubtless have been anticipated in this matter bynatureherself. Still, if the queen essays to go with a swarm, and if the apiarist is not at hand, she will very likely be lost, never regaining the hive ; but in this case the bees will be saved, as they will return without fail. I always mean to be so watchful, keeping my hives shaded, giving ample room, and dividing or increasing, as to prevent natural swarming. But in lieu of such caution I see no objection to clipping the queen’s wing, and would advise it. Some apiarists clip one primary wing the first year, the secondary the second year, the other primary the the third, and if age of the queen permits, the remaining wing the fourth year. Yet, such data, with other matters of interest and importance, better be kept on aslate or card, and firmly attached to the hive, or else kept in a record, opposite the number of the hive. The time required to find the queen is sufficient argument against the “queen-wing record.” It is not an argument against the once clipping of the queen’s wings, for, in the nucleus hives, queens are readily found, and even in full colonies this is not very difficult, especially if we heed the dictates of interest and keep Italians. It will be best, even though we have to look up black queens, in full colonies. The loss of one good colony, or the vexatious trouble of separating two or three swarms which had clustered together, would soon vanquish this argument of time. To clip the queen’s wing, take hold of her wings with the left thumb and index finger—never grasp her body, especially her abdomen, as this will be very apt to injure her—raise her off the comb, then turn from the bees, place her gently on a board or any convenient object—even the knee will do— 170 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. she will thus stand on her feet, and not trouble by constantly passing her legs up by her wings, where they, too, would be in danger of being cutoff. Now, take a small pair of scissors, and with the right hand open them, carefully pass one blade under one of the front wings, shut the blades, and all is over. Some apiarists complain that queens thus handled often receive a foreign scent, and are destroyed by the bees. I have clipped hundreds, and never lost one. 1 believe that the above method will not be open to this objection. Should the experience of any one prove to the contrary, the drawing on of a kid glove, or even the fingers of one, might remove the difficulty. FERTILE WORKERS, We have already referred to (pp. 77 and 90) and described fertile workers. As these can only produce unimpregnated eggs, they are, of course, valueless, and unless superseded by a queen, will soon cause the destruction of the colony. As their presence often prevents the acceptance of cells or a queen, by the common workers, they are a serious pest. The absence of worker brood, and the abundant and care- less deposition of eggs-—-some cells being skipped, while others have received several eggs—are pretty sure indications of their presence. To rid a colony of these, unite it with some colony with a good queen, after which the colony may be divided if very strong. Simply exchanging places of a colony with a fertile worker, and a good strong colony, will often cause the destruc- tion of the wrong-doer. In this case, brood should be given to the colony which had the fertile worker, that they may rear a queen; or better, a queen-cell or queen should be given them. Caging a queen in a hive, with a fertile worker, for thirty-six hours, will often cause the bees to accept her. Shaking the bees off the frames two rods from the hive, will often rid them of the counterfeit queen, after which they will receive a queen-cell or a queen. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 171. CHAPTER X. INCREASE OF COLONIES. No subject will be of more interest to the beginner, than that of increasing stocks. He has one or two, he desires as many score, or, if very aspiring, as many hundred, and if a Hetherington or a Harbison, as many thousand. This is a subject, too, that may well engage the thought and study of men of no inconsiderable experience. I believe that many veterans are not practicing the best methods in obtaining un increase of stocks. Before proceeding to name the ways, or to detail methods, let me state and enforce, that it is always safest, and generally wisest, especially for the beginner, to be con- tent with doubling, and certainly, with tripling, his number of colonieseach season. Especially let all remember the motto, * Keep all colonies strong.” - There are two ways to increase: The natural, known as swarming, already described under natural history of the bee ; and artificial, improperly styled artificial swarming. This is also called, and very properly, too, “dividing.” SWARMING. To prevent anxiety and constant watching, and to secure a more equable division of bees, and, as I know, more honey, it is better to provide against swarming entirely by use of means which will appear in the sequel. But as this requires some experience, and, as often, through neglect, either neces- sary or culpable, swarms may issue, every apiarist should be ever ready with both means and knowledge for immediate action. Of course, the hives were all made the previous winter, and will never be wanting. Neglect to provide hives before the swarming season, is convincing proof that the wrong pursuit has been chosen. If, as we have advised, the queen has her wing clipped, the 172 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. matter becomes very simple, in fact, so much simplified that were there no other argument, this would be sufficient to recommend the practice of cutting the queen’s wing. Now, if several swarms cluster together, we have not to separate them, they will separate of themselves and return to their old home. To migrate without the queen means death, and life is sweet even to bees, and is not to be willingly given up except for home and kin- dred. Neither has the apiarist to climb trees, to secure his bees from bushy trunks, from off the lattice-work or pickets of his fence, from the very top of a tall, slender, fragile fruit tree, or other most inconvenient places. Nor will he even be tempted to pay his money for patent hivers. He knows his bees will return to their old quarters, so he is not perturbed by the fear of loss, or plans to capture the unap- proachable. It requires no effort “to possess his soul in patience.” If he wishes no increase, he steps out, takes the queen by the remaining wings, as she emerges from the hive, soon after the bees commence their hilarious leave- taking, puts her in a cage, opens the hive, destroys, or, if he wishes to use them, cuts out the queen cells as already described (page 167), gives more room—either by adding boxes or taking out some of the frames of brood, as they may well be spared, places the cage enclosing the queen under the: uilt, and leaves the bees to return at their pleasure. At night-fall the queen is liberated, and very likely the swarm- ing fever subdued for the season. If it is desired to hive the absconding swarm with a nucleus colony, exchange the places of the old hive containing the caged queen, and the nucleus, to which the swarm will then come. Remove queen-cells from the old hives as before, give some of the combs of brood to the nucleus, which is now a full colony, and empty frames, with comb or foundation starters, or, if you have them, empty combs to both, liberate: the queen at night and all is well, and the apiarist rejoices in auew colony. If the apiarist has neglected to form nuclei, and so has no extra queens—and this is a neglect—and wishes to hive his swarm separately, he places his caged queen in an empty hive, with which he replaces the old hive till the bees return, then this new hive, with queen and bees, and,. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 173 still better, with a frame or two of brood, honey, etc., in the middle, which were taken from the old hive, is set on a new stand. The old hive, with all the queen-cells except the largest and finest one removed, is set back, so that the apiarist has forestalled the issue of after-swarms, except that other queen- cells are afterward started, which is not likely to happen. The old queen is liberated as before, and we are in, the way of soon having two good colonies. Some apiarists cage the queen and let the bees return, then divide the colony as soon to be described. Some extensive apiarists, who desire to prevent increase of colonies, cage the old queen, destroy cells, and exchange this hive—after taking out three or four frames of brood to strengthen nuclei—with one that recently swarmed. Thus a colony that recently sent out a swarm, but retained their queen, has probably, from the decrease of bees, loss ‘of brood and’ removal of queen-cells, lost the swarming fever, and if we give them plenty of room and ventilation, they will accept the bees from a new swarm, and spend their future energies in storing honey. Southard and Ranney have been very suc- eessful in the practice of this method. If building of drone- comb in the empty frames which replaced the brood-frames removed, should vex the apiarist—Dr. Southard says they had. no such trouble—it could be prevented by giving worker- foundation. If the swarming fever is not broken up, we shall only have to repeat the operation again in a few days. HIVING SWARMS, But in clipping wings, some queens may be omitted, or from taste, or other motive, some bee-keepers may not desire to ‘de- form her royal highness.” Then the apiarist must possess the means to save the would-be rovers. The means are good hives in readiness, some kind of a brush—a turkey-wing will do—and a bag or basket, with ever open top, which should be at least eighteen inches in diameter, and this receptacle so made that it may be attached to the end ofa pole, and two such poles, one very long and the other of medium length. Now, let us-attend to the method: As soon as the cluster commences to form, place the hive on the ground near by, leaving the entrance widely open, which with our bottom- 174 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. board only requires that we draw the hive forward an inch or more over the alighting-board. As soon as the bees are fully clustered, we must manage as best we can to empty the whole cluster in front of the hive. As the bees are full of honey we need have little fear of stings. Should the bees be on a twig that could be sacrificed, this might be easily cut off with either a knife or saw, and so carefully as hardly to disturb the bees ; then carry and shake the bees in front of the hive, when with joyful hum they will at once proceed to enter. If the twig must not be cut, shake them all into the basket, and empty before the hive. Should they be on a tree trunk, ora fence, then brush them with the wing into the basket, and proceed as before. If they are high up on a tree, take the pole and basket, and perhaps a ladder will also be necessary. Always let ingenuity have its perfect work, not for- getting that the object to be gained is to get just as many of the bees as is possible on the alighting-board in front of ‘the hive. Carelessness as to the quantity might involve the loss of the queen, which would ve serious. The bees will not remain unless the queen enters the hive. Should a cluster form where it is impossible to brush or shake them off, they can be driven into a basket, or hive, by holding it above them and blowing smoke among them. As soon as they are nearly all in—a few may be flying around, but if the queen” is in the new hive, they will go back to their old home, or find the new one—which Mr. Betsinger says they will always. do, if it is not far removed—remove the hive to its permanent stand. All washes are more than useless. It is better that the hive be clean and pure. With such, if they are shaded, bees wiil generally be satisfied. But assurance will be made doubly sure by giving them a frame of brood, in all stages of growth, from the old hive. This may be inserted before. the work of hiving is commenced. Mr. Betsinger thinks this will cause them to leave ; but I think he will not be sustained by the experience of other apiarists. He certainly is not by mine. I never knew but one colony to leave uncapped brood ; I have often known them to swarm out of an empty hive once or twice, and to be returned, after brood had been placed in the hive, when they accepted the changed conditions, and went at once MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 175 to work. This seams reasonable, too, in view of the attach- ment of bees for their nest of brood, as also from analogy. How eager the ant to convey her larvee and pupse—the so- called eggs—to a place of safety, when the nest has been invaded and danger threatens. Bees doubtless have the same desire to protect their young, and as they cannot carry them away to a new home, they remain to care for them in one that may not be quite to their taste. If it is not desired to increase, the bees may be given to a colony which has previously swarmed, after removing from the latter all queen-cells, and adding to the room by giving boxes and removing some frames of brood to strengthen nuclei. This plan is practiced by Dr. Southard. We may even return the bees to their old home by taking the same _pre- cautionary measures, with a good hope that storing and not swarming will engage their attention in future ; and if we exchange their position with that of a nucleus, we shall be still more likely to succed in overcoming the desire to swarm ; though some seasons, usually when honey is being gathered each day for long intervals, but not in large quantities, the desire and determination of some colonies to swarm is im- placable. Room, ventilation, changed position of hive, each and all will fail. Then we can do no better than to gratify the propensity, by giving the swarm a new home, and make an effort TO PREVENT SECOND SWARMS. As already stated, the wise apiarist will always have on hand extra queens. Now, if he does not desire to form nuclei (as already explained), and thus use these queen cells, he will at once cut them a/? out, and destroy them, and give the old colony a fertile queen. The method of introduction will be given hereafter, though in such cases there is very little danger incurred by giving them a queen atonce. And by thoroughly. smoking the bees, and sprinkling with sweetened water, and daubing the new queen with honey, we may be almost sure of success. If desired, the queen-cells can be used in forming nuclei, in manner before described. In this way we save our colony from being without a fertile queen for at least thirteen days, and that, too, in the very height of the honey season, 176 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. when time is money. If extra queens are’ wanting, we have only to look carefully through the old hive and remove all but one of the queen-cells. A little care will certainly make sure work, as, after swarming, the old hive is so thinned of bees, that only carelessness will overlook queen-cells in such a quest. TO PREVENT SWARMING. As yet we can only partly avert swarming. Mr. Quinby offered a large reward for a perfect non-swarming hive, and never had to make the payment. Mr. Hazen attempted it, and partially succeedéd, by granting much space to the bees, so that they should not be impelled to vacate for lack of room. The Quinby hive already described, by the large capability of the brood-chamber, and ample opportunity for top and side- storing, looks to the same end. But we may safely say that a perfect non-swarming hive or system is not yet before the bee-keeping public. The best aids toward non-swarming are shade, ventilation, and roomy hives. But as we shall see in the- sequel, much room in the brood-chamber, un- less we work for extracted honey—by which means we may greatly repress the swarming fever—prevents our obtaining honey in a desirable style. Ifwe add sections, unless the connection is quite free—in which case the queen is apt to enter them and greatly vex us—we must crowd some to send the bees into the sections. Such crowd- ing is almost sure to lead to swarming. I have, by abrading the combs of capped honey in the brood-chamber, as suggested to me by Mr. M. M. Baldridge—causing the honey to run down from the combs—sent the bees crowding to the sections, and thus deferred or prevented swarming.., It is possible that by extracting freely when storing is very rapid, and then by rapidly feeding the extracted honey in the interims of honey secretion, we might prevent swarming, secure very rapid breeding, and still get our honey in sections. Too few experiments, to be at all decisive, have led me to look favorably in this direction. The keeping of colonies queenless, in order to secure honey without increase, as practiced and advised by some even of our distinguished apiarists, seems to me a very questionable MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 177 practice, to which I cannot even lend my approval by so much as detailing the method. I would rather advise: keeping a queen, and the workers ail at work in every hive, if possible, all the time. . HOW TO MULTIPLY COLONIES WITH THE BEST RESULTS. We have already seen the evils of natural swarming, for, even though no stock is too much reduced in numbers, no colony lost by not receiving prompt attention, no Sunday quiet disturbed, and no time wasted in anxious watching, vet, at best, the old colony is queenless for about two weeks, @ state of things which no apiarist can or should afford. The true policy then is to practice artificial swarming, as just described, where we save time by cutting the queen’s wing, and save loss by permitting no colony to remain queen- less, or still better to DIVIDE. This method will secure uniform colonies, will increase our number of colonies just to our liking, will save time, and that, too, when time is most valuable, and is in every respect safer and preferable to swarming. I have practiced dividing ever since Lhave kept bees, and never without the best results. HOW TO DIVIDE. By the process already described, we have secured a goodly number of fine queens, which will be in readiness at the needed time. Now, as soon as the white clover harvest is well commenced, early in June, we may commence operations. If we have but one colony to divide, it is well to wait till they become pretty populous, but not till they swarm. Take one of our waiting hives, which now holds a nucleus with fertile queen, and remove the same close along side the colony we wish to divide. This must only be done on warm days when the bees are active, and better be done, while the bees are busy, in the middle of the day. Remove the division-board of the new hive, and then remove five combs, well loaded with brood, and of course containing some honey, from the old colony, bees and all, to the new hive. Also take the remain- ing frames and shake the bees into the new hive. Only besure that the queen still remains in the old hive. Fill both the 178 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. hives with empty frames—if the frames are filled with empty comb it will be still better, if not it will pay to give starters or full frames of foundation—and return the new hive to its former position. The old bees will return to the old colony, while the young ones will remain peaceably with the new queen. The old colony will now contain at least seven frames. of brood, honey, etc., the old queen, and plenty of bees, so that they will work on as though naught had transpired, though perhaps moved to a little harder effort by the added space and five empty frames. The empty frames may be all placed at one end, or placed between the others, though not so as to divide brood. The new colony will have eight frames of brood, comb, etc., three from the nucleus and five from the old colony, a young fertile queen, plenty of bees, those of the previous nucleus. and the young bees from the old colony, and will work with a surprising vigor, often even eclipsing the old colony. If the apiarist has several colonies, it is better to make the new colony from several old colonies, as follows: Take one frame of brood-comb from each of six old colonies, or two from each of three, and carry them, bees and all, and place with the nucleus. Only, be sure that no queen is removed. Fill all the hives with empty combs, or foundation instead of frames, as before. In this way we increase without in the least disturbing any of the colonies, and may add a colony every day or two, or perhaps sevéral, depending on the size of our apiary, and can thus always, so my experience says, pre- vent swarming. By taking only brood that is all capped, we can safely add one or two frames to each nucleus every week, without adding any bees, as there would be no danger of loss by chilling the brood. In this way, as we remove no bees, we have to spend no time in looking for the queen, and may buila up our nuclei into full stocks, and keep back the swarming impulse with great facility. These are unquestionably the best methods to divide, and so I will not complicate the subject by detailing others. The only objection that can be urged against them, and even this. does not apply to the last, is that we must seek out the queen in each hive, or at least be sure that we do not remove her, though this is by no means so tedious if we have Italians, as. MANUAL OF THE APIARY: 179 of course we all will. I might give other methods which would render unnecessary this caution, but they are to my mind inferior, and not is recommended. If we proceed as above described, the bees will seldom prepare to swarm at all, and if they do they will be discovered in the act, by such fre- - quent examinations, and the work may be cut short by at once dividing such colonies as first explained, and destroying their queen-cells, or, if desired, using them for forming new nuclei. 180 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. CHAPTER XI. ITALIANS AND ITALIANIZING. The history and description of Italians (see Frontis-piecc) have already been considered (p. 41), so it only remains to discuss the subject in a practical light. The superiority of the Italians seems at present a mooted question. A few among the able dpiarists in our country take the ground that a thorough balancing of qualities will make as favorable a showing for the German, as for the Ital- ian bees. Ithink, too, that the late Baron of Berlepsch held to the same view. I think I am capable of acting as judge on this subject. I have never sold a half-dozen queens in my life, and so have not been unconsciously influenced by self-interest. In fact, I have never had, if I except two years, any direct interest in bees at all, and all my work and experiments had only the promotion and spread of truth as the ultimatum. Again, I have kept both blacks and Italians side by side, and carefully observed and noted results during eight years of my experience. I have carefully collected data as to in- erease of brood, rapidity of storing, early and late habits in the day and season, kinds of flowers visited, amiability, etc., and I believe that to say that they are not superior to black bees, is like saying that a Duchess among short-horns is in no wise superior to the lean, bony kine of Texas; or that our Essex and Berkshire swine are no whit better than the caday- erous lank breeds, with infinite noses, that, happily, are now so rare among us. The Italians are far superior to the Ger- man bees in many respects, and more—though I am acquainted with all the works on apiculture printed in our language, and have an extensive acquaintance with the leading apiarists of our country from Maine to California, yet I knowof scarcely a baker’s dozen that have had opportunity to form a correct MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 181 judgment, that do not give strong preference to the Italians. That these men are honest, is beyond question; that those who disagree with us are equally so, there is no doubt. The black bees are in some respects superior to the Italians, and if a bee-keeper’s methods cause him to give these points undue importance, in forming his judgments, then his conclusions may be wrong. Faulty management, too, may lead to wrong conclusions. The Italians certainly possess the following ‘points of supe- riority : First. They possess longer tongues (Fig. 20), and so can gather from flowers which are useless to the black bee. This’ point has already been sufficiently considered (p. 42). How much value hangs upon this structural peculiarity, [ am unable to state. I have frequently seen Italians working on red clover. I never saw a black bee thus employed. It is easy to see that this might be, at certain times and certain seasons, a very material aid. How much of the superior storing qualities of the Italians is due to this lengthened ligula, I am unable to say. Second. They are more active, and with the same oppor- tunities will collect a good deal more honey. This is a matter of observation, which I have tested over and over again. Yet I will give the figures of another: Mr. Doolittle secured from two colonies, 309 lbs. and 301 Ibs., respectively, of bow honey, during the past season. These surprising figures, the best he could give, were from his best Italian stocks. Similar testi- mony comes from Klein and Dzierzon over the sea, and from hosts of our own apiarists. Third. They work earlier and later. This is not only true of the day, but of the season. On cool days in spring, I have seen the dandelions swarming with Italians, while not a black bee was to be seen. On May 7th, 1877, I walked lesg than one-half a inile, and counted sixty-eight bees gath- ering from dandelions, yet only two were black bees. This might be considered an undesirable feature, as tending to spring dwindling. Yet, with the proper management, to be described while considering the subject of wintering, we think this no objection, but a great advantage. Fourth. They are far better to protect their hives against 182 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. robbers. Robbers that attempt to plunder Italians of their hard-earned stores soon find that they have “dared to beard the lion in his den.” This is so patent, that even the advo- cates of black bees are ready to concede it. Fifth. They are almost proof against the ravages of the bee-moth’s larvee. This is also universally conceded. Sixth. The queens are decidedly more prolific. This is probably in part due to the greater and more constant activity of the neuters. This is observable at all seasons, but more especially when building up in the spring. No one who will take the pains to note the increase of brood will long remain in doubt on this point. Seventh. They are less apt to breed in winter, when it is desirable to have the bees very quiet. Eighth. The queen is more readily found, which isa great advantage. In the various manipulations of the apiary, it is frequently desirable to find the queen. In full colonies I would rather find three Italian queens than one black one. Where time is money, this becomes a matter of much im- portance. Ninth. The bees are more disposed to adhere to the comb while being handled, which some might regard a doubtful compliment, though I consider it a desirable quality. Tenth. They are, in my judgment, less liable to rob other bees. They will find honey when the blacks gather none, and the time for robbing is when there is no gathering. This may explain the above peculiarity. Eleventh. And, in my estimation, a sufficient ground for pref- erence, did it standalone, the Italian bees are far more amiable. Years ago I got rid of my black bees, because they were so cross. ‘T'wo years ago I got two or three colonies, that my students might see the difference, but to my regret ; for, as we removed the honey in the autumn, they seemed perfectly furious, like demons, seeking whom they might devour, and this, too, despite the smoker, while the far more numerous Italians were safely handled, even without smoke. The experiment at least satisfied a large class of students as to superiority. Mr. Quinby speaks in his book of their being cross, and Captain Hetherington tells me, that if not much handled, they are more cross than the blacks. From my own MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 183 experience, I cannot understand this. Hybrids are even more eross than are the pure black bees, but otherwise are nearly as desirable as the pure Italians. I have kept these two races side by side for years, I have studied them most carefully, and I feel sure that none of the above eleven points of excellence is too strongly stated. The black bees ‘will go into close boxes more readily than Italians, but if we use the sectional frames, and on other grounds we can afford to use no other, we shall find, with the more ample connection between the brood-chamber and sections, that even here, as Mr. Doolittle and many others have shown, the Italians still give the best returns. I have some reasons to think that the blacks are more hardy, and have found many apiarists who agree with me. Yet, others of wide experience, think that there is no differ- ence, while still others think the Italians more hardy. The Italian bees are said to dwindle worse in spring, which, as they are more active, is quite probable. As I have never had a case of serious spring dwindling, I cannot speak from experience. If the bee-keeper prevents early spring flying, which is very detrimental to either black or Italian bees, this point will have no weight, even if well taken. ALL SHOULD KEEP ONLY ITALIANS. The advantages of the Italians, which have been considered thus fully, are more. than sufficient to warrant the exclusion of all other bees from the apiary. ‘Truly, no one need to be urged to a course, that adds to the ease, profit, and agree- ableness of his vocation. HOW TO ITALIANIZE. From what has been already explained regarding the natural history of bees, it will be seen “that all we have to do to change our bees, is to change our queens. Hence, to Italian- ize a colony, we have only to procure and introduce an Italian queen. HOW TO INTRODUCE A QUEEN. In dividing colonies, where we give our queen to a colony composed wholly of young bees, it is safe and easy to intro- 184 MANUAL OF THE APIARY duce a queen in the manner explained in the section on artificial swarming. ‘To introduce a queen toa colony composed of old bees more care is required. First, we should seek out the old queen and destroy her, then cage our Italian queen in a wire cage, which may be made by winding a strip of wire-cloth, three and one-half inches wide, and containing fifteen to twenty meshes to the inch, about the finger. Let it lap each way one-half inch, then cut it off. Ravel out the half inch on each side, and weave in the ends of the wires, forming a tube the size of the finger. We now have only to put the queen in the tube, and pinch the ends together, and the queen is caged. The cage containing the queen should be inserted between two adjacent combs containing honey, each of which will touch it. The queen can thus sip honey as she needs it. If we fear the queen may not be able to sip the honey through the meshes of the wire, we may dip a piece of clean sponge in honey and insert it in the upper end of the cage before we compress this end. This will furnish the queen with the needed food. In forty-eight hours we again open the hive, after a thorough smoking, also the cage, which is easily done by pressing the upper end, at right-angles to the direction of the pressure when we closed it. In doing this do not remove the cage. Now keep watch, and if, as the bees enter the cage or as the queen emerges, the bees attack her, secure her immediately and re-cage her for another forty-eight hours. I usually let some honey drip on the queen as soon as the cage is opened. Some think this renders the bees more amiable. I have introduced many queens in this manner, and have very rarely been unsuccessful. Mr. Dadant stops the cage with a plug of wood, and when he goes to liberate the qeeen replaces the wooden stop with one of comb, and leaves the bees to liberate the queen by eating out the comb. I have tried this, but with no better success than J have had with the above method, while with this plan the queen is surely lost if the bees do not receive her kindly. Mr. Betsinger uses a larger cage, open at one end, which is pressed against the comb till the mouth of the cage reaches the middle of it. If I understand him, the queen is - thus held by cage and comb till the bees liberate her. I have never tried this plan. When bees are not storing, especially MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 185 if robbers are abundant, it is more difficult to succeed, and at such time the utmost caution will occasionally fail of success if the bees are old. A young queen, just emerging from a cell, can almost always be safely given at once to the colony, after destroying the old queen. ‘ A queen cell is usually received with favor. If we adopt this course we must be careful to destroy all other queen- cells that may be formed ; and if the one we supply is de- stroyed, wait seven days, then destroy all their queen-cells, and they are sure to accept acell. But to save time I should always introduce a queen, If we are to introduce an imported queen, or one of very great value, we might make a new colony, all of young bees, as already described. Smoke them well, sprinkle with sweetened water, daub the queen with honcy, and introduce immediately. This method would involve really no risk. If the apiarist was still afraid, he could make assurance still more sure by taking combs of brood where the young bees were rapidly escaping from the cells; there would soon be enough young bees to cluster about the queen, and soon enough bees for agood colony. This plan would not be advi- sable except in warm weather, and care is alsorequired to pro- tect from robbers. The colony might be set in the cellar for a few days, in which case it would be safe even in early spring. By having a colony thus Italianized in the fall, we may commence the next spring, and, as described in the section explaining the formation of artificial swarms, we may control our rearing of drones, queens, and all, and ere another autumn have only the beautiful, pure, amiable, and active Italians. I have done this several times, and with the most perfect sat- isfaction. I think by making this change in blood, we add certainly two dollars to the value of each colony, and I know of no other way to make money so easily and pleasantly. TO GET OUR ITALIAN QUEEN. Send to some reliable breeder, and ask for a queen worth at least five dollars. It is the mania now to rear and sell cheap queens. These are reared—must be reared—without care, and will, I fear, prove very cheap. It is a question, if 186 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. any more sure way could be devised to injure our colonies than the dollar queen business, which has for some years been so extensive. It is quite probable that much of the superiority of Italian bees is owing to the careful and judi- cious selection in breeding. Such careful selection in breed- ing, either with black or Italian bees, is what will augment the value of our apiaries. The tendency of the dollar queen business is to dissemi- nate the inferior queens, many of which will appear in every apiary. These should be killed, not sold. Yet, many an apiarist will think even the poorest queens are worth a dollar. My friend, Mrs. Baker, bought a dollar “Albino”’ queen last season which was not worth acent. Yet it cost only a dollar, and, of course, no satisfaction could be secured or even asked for. I think it behooves apiarists to reflect on this matter, and see if dollar queens are not very dear. I have thrown away three dollars on them, and have concluded to pay more and buy cheaper in future. I believe our queen-breeders should be encouraged to give us the best; to study the art of breeding, and never send out an inferior queen. In this way we may hope to keep up the character of our apiaries, and the reputation of Italians. Else we are safer under the old system where “natural selection” retained the best, by the “survival of the fittest.” REARING AND SHIPPING QUEENS. I have already explained the matter of queen-rearing. After many inquiries, and some experience, I much doubt if any apiarist can afford to rear queens, such as apiarists wish to buy, for less than four or five dollars. Only the best should be sold, and no pains should be spared by the breeder to secure such queens. TO SHIP QUEENS. This is a very simple matter. We have only to secure a square block two inches each way, and one and a half inches deep—a hole bored into a two-inch plank to within a quarter of an inch of the bottom serves admirably. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 187 We now cover the open chamber with fine wire-cloth, put in our queen and fifteen or twenty bees, and she is ready to ship. Any uncapped honey to daub the queen ts almost sure to prove fatal. When it is desirable to send queens by mail, it will be necessary to provision the cage with sugar or candy, and cover with two pieces of wire gauze separated by at Fra. 57. least one-fourth of an inch (Fig. 57); then queens can be sent by mail, to all sections of our country, for three cents each. No one should presume, on any account, to send a queen by mail, unless the queen-cage is covered by this double screen, and is provisioned with sugar instead of honey. If shippers neglect these precautions, and the mails become daubed, or the mail agents stung, we shall again lose the privilege of sending queens by mail. Such an order will in future be beyond recall, hence any carelessness that endangers this privilege will be virtually criminal. If it is thought neces- sary to place vials of water in cages when shipping long distances, the bees must be sent by express, as such packages are not mailable. TO MOVE COLONIES. Should we desire to purchase Italian or other colonies, the only requisites to safe transport are: A wire-cloth cover for ventilation, secure fastening of the frames so they cannot possibly move, and combs old enough so that they shall not break down and fall out. I would never advise moving bees in winter, though it has often been done with entire safety. I should wish the bees to have a flight very soon after such disturbance. 188 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. CHAPTER XII. EXTRACTING, AND THE EXTRACTOR. The brood-chamber is often so filled with honey that the queen has no room to lay her eggs, especially if there is any neglect to give other room for storing. Honey, too, in brood- combs is unsalable, because the combs are dark, and the size undesirable. Comb, too, is very valuable, and should never be taken from the bees, except when desired to render the honey more marketable. Hence, the apiarist finds a very efficient auxiliary in the HONEY EXTRACTOR. No doubt some have expected and claimed too much for this machine. It is equally true, that some have blun- dered quite as seriously in an opposite direction. For, since Mr. Langstroth gave the movable frame to the world, the apiarist has not been so deeply indebted to any inventor as to him who gave us the Mell Extractor, Herr von Hruschka, of Germany. Even if there was no sale for extracted honey— aye, more, even if it must be thrown away, which will never be necessary, as it may always be fed to the bees with profit, even then 1 would pronounce the extractor an invaluable aid to every bee-keeper. The principle which makes this machine effective is that of centrifugal force, and it was suggested to Major von Hruschka, by noticing that a piece of comb which was twirled by his boy at the end of a string, was emptied of its honey. Herr von Hruschka’s machine was essentially like those now so common, though in’ lightness and convenience there has been a marked improvement. His machine consisted of a wooden tub, with a vertival axle in the centre, which revolved in a socket fastened to the bottom of the vessel, while from the top of the tub, fastenings extended to the axle, which projected MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 189 for a distance above. The axle was thus held exactly in the centre of the tub. Attached to the axle was a frame or rack to hold the comb, whose outer face rested against a wire-cloth. The axle with its attached frame, which latter held the uncapped comb, was made to revolve by rapidly unwinding a string, which had been previously wound about the top of the ‘axle, after the manner of top-spinning. Replace the wooden tub with one of tin, and the string with gearing, and it will be seen that we have essentially the neat extractor of to-day. The machine is of foreign invention, and is not covered by a ‘patent, and so may be made by any one who desires to do so. Fie. d8. iH ie a = = The first American honey extractor was that made by Mr. Peabody (Fig. 58). This was without gearing, and served admirably in its day, but this has since been greatly improved, till now we havea great variety of machines, each with its special excellencies, and all effecting the desired results with more or less ease and rapidity. DESIRABLE POINTS IN AN EXTRACTOR. The machine should be as light as is consistent with strength. It is desirable that the can be made of tin, as it will be neater, and more easily kept sweet and clean. The 190 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. can should be stationary, so that only a light frame shall revolve with the comb. It is desirable that the machine should run with gearing, not only for ease, but also to insure or allow an even motion, so that we need not throw even drone larve from the brood-cells. The arrangement for exit of the honey should permit a speedy and perfect shut- off. A molasses gate is excellent to serve for a faucet. I also prefer that the can should hold 30 or 40 pounds of honey be- fore it would be necessary to let the honey flow from it. In case of small frames, like the ones I have described as most desirable to my mind, I should prefer that the comb bas- ket might hold four Soames, The comb basket should be placed so low in the can that no honey will be. thrown over the top to daub the person using the extractor. I think that Fig. 59. EE I i i Oo . a wire attachment with a tin bottom (Fig. 59, a,b) and made to hook on to the comb basket, which will hold pieces of comb not in frames, a desirable improvement to an extractor. I have tried machines where the sides of the comb basket inclined down and in, for the purpose of holding pieces of comb, but found them unsatisfactory. The combs would not be sustained. Yet, if the frames were long and narrow, so that the end of the frame would have to rest on the bottom of the comb basket, instead of hanging as it does in the hive, such an incline might be of use to prevent the top of the frame from falling in, before we commence to turn - the ma- chine. Of course. with such comb baskets, there would be less centrifugal force at the bottom than at the top of the comb, ‘making it more difficult to avoid throwing out the larval bees, in extracting from combs containing uncapped brood. The inside, if metal, which is lighter and to be preferred to wood, as it does not sour or absorb the honey, should be MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 191 either of tin or galvanized iron, so as not to rust. A cover to protect. the honey from dust, when not in use, is very desirable. The cloth cover, gathered around the edge by a rubber, as made by Mr. A. I. Root, is excellent for this purpose. As nocapped honey could be extracted, it is necessary to uncap it, which is done by shaving off the thin caps. To do Fie. 60. this, nothing is better than the new Bingham & Hetherington honey knife (Fig. 60). After a thorough trial of this knife, here at the College, we pronounce it decidedly superior to any other that we have used, though we have several of the principal knives made in the United States. It is, perhaps, Fic. 61. sometimes desirable to have a curved point (Fig. 61), though this is not at all essential. USE OF THE EXTRACTOR. Although some of our most experienced apiarists say nay, it is nevertheless a fact, that the queen often remains idle, or extrudes her eggs only to be lost, simply because there are no empty cells. The honey yield is so great that the workers occupy every available space, and sometimes even they become unwilling idlers, simply because of necessity. Seldom a year has passed but that I have noticed some of my most prolific queens thus checked in duty. It is probable that just the proper arrangement and best management of frames for sur- plus would make such occasions rare; yet, I have seen the brood-chamber in two-story hives, with common frames above -—the very best arrangement to promote storing above’ the brood-chamber—so crowded as to force the queen either to idle- 192 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. ness or to egg-laying in the upper frames. This fact, as also the redundant brood, and excessive storing that follows upon extracting from the brood-chamber, make me emphatic upon this point, notwithstanding the fact that some men of wide experience and great intelligence, think me wrong. The extractor also enables the apiarist to secure honey— extracted honey—in poor seasons, when he could get very little, if any, in sections or boxes. By use of the extractor, at any time or season, the apiarist can secure nearly if not quite double the amount of honey, that he could get in combs. The extractor enables us to remove uncapped honey in the fall, which, if left in the hive, may cause disease and death. By use of the extractor, too, we can throw the honey from our surplus brood-combs in the fall, and thus have a salable article, and have the empty combs, which are invaluable for use the next spring. We now have in our apiary one hundred and fifty such empty combs. If the revolving racks of the extractor have a wire basket attachment, at the bottom as I have suggested, the uncapped sections can be emptied in the fall, if desired, and pieces of drone-comb cut from the brood-chamber, which are so admir- able for starters in the sections, can be emptied oF their honey at any season. ; By use of the extractor, we can furnish at one-half the price we ask for comb- -honey, an article which is equal, if not superior, to the best comb-honey, and which, were it not for appearance alone, would soon drive the latter from the market. WHEN TO USE THE EXTRACTOR. If extracted honey can be sold for fifteen, or even twelve cents, the extractor may be used profitably the summer through ; otherwise use it sufficiently often that there may always be empty worker-cells in the brood-chamber. It is often required with us during the three great honey harvests—the white clover, basswood, and that of fall flowers. I have always extracted the honey so frequently as to avoid much uncapping. If the honey was thin, I would keep it in a dry warm room, or apply a mild heat, that it might thicken, and escape danger from fermentation. Yet, MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 193 ‘so many have sustained a loss by extracting prematurely, that I urge all never to extract till after the bees have sealed the cells. ‘The labor of uncapping, with the exellent honey knives now at our command, is so light, that we can afford to run no risk that the honey produced at our apiaries shall sour and become worthless. If the honey granulates, it can be reduced to the fluid state with no injury, by heating, though the temperature should never rise above 200° F. This can best be done by placing the vessel containing the honey in another containing water, though if the second vessel be set on a stove, a tin basin or pieces of wood should prevent the honey vessel from touching the bottom, else the honey would burn. As before stated, the best honey is always sure to crystallize, but it may be pre- vented by keeping it in a temperature which is constantly above 80°F. Ifcanned-honcy is set on top a furnace in which a fire is kept burning, it will remain liquid indefinitely. To render the honey free from small pieces of comb, or other impurities, it should either be passed through a cloth or wire sieve—I purposely refrain from the use of the word strainer, as we should neither use the word strained, nor allow it to be used, in connection with extracted honey—or else draw it off into a barrel, with a faucet or molasses gate near the lower end, and after all particles of solid matter have risen to the top, draw off the clear honey from the bottom. In case of very thick honey, this method is not so satisfactory as the first. I hardly need say that honey, when heated, is thinner, and will of course pass more readily through common toweling or fine wire-cloth. Never allow the queen to be forced to idleness for want of empty cells. Extract all uncapped honey in the fall, and the honey from all the brood-combs not needed for winter. The honey, too, should be thrown from pieces of drone-comb which are cut from the brood-frames, and from the uncapped comb in sections at the close of the season. HOW TO EXTRACT. The apiarist should possess one or two light boxes, of suffi- cient size to hold all the frames from a single hive. These should have convenient handles, and a close-fitting cover, 194 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. which will slide easily either way. These will be more easily used if they rest on legs, which will raise their tops say three feet from the ground. Now, go to two or three colonies, take enough combs, and of the right kind for a colony. The bees may be shaken off or brushed off with a large feather. If the bees are troublesome, close the box as soon as each comb is placed inside. Extract the honey from these, using care not to turn so hard as to throw out the brood. If necessary, with a thin knife pare off the caps, and after throwing the honey from one side, turn the comb around, and extract it from the other. If combs are of very different weights, it will be better for the extractor to use those of nearly equal weights on opposite sides, as the strain will be much less. Now take these combs to another colony, whose combs shall be replaced by them. Then close the hive, extract this second set of combs, and thus proceed till the honey has all been extracted. At the close, the one or two colonies from which the first combs were taken shall receive pay from the last set extracted, and thus, with much saving of time, little disturbance of bees, and the least invitation to robbing, in case there is no gath- ering, we have gone rapidly through the apiary. TO KEEP EXTRACTED HONEY. Extracted honey, if to be sold in cans or bottles, may be run into them from the extractor. The honey should be thick, and the vessels may be sealed or corked, and boxed at once. If large quantities of honey are extracted, it may be most conveniently kept in barrels. These should be first-class, and ought to be waxed before using them, to make assurance doubly sure against any leakage. To wax the barrels, we may use beeswax, but paraffine is cheaper, and just as efficient. Three or four quarts of the hot paraffine or wax should be turned into the barrel, the bung driven in tight, the barrel twirled in every position, after which the bung is loosened by a blow with the hammer, and the residue of the wax turned out. Economy requires that the barrels be warm when waxed, so that only a thin coat will be appropriated. Large tin cans, waxed and soldered at the openings after being filled, are cheap, and niay be the most desirable recep- tacles for extracted honey. Extracted honey should always be kept in dry apartments. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 195 CHAPTER XIII. HANDLING BEES. But some one asks the question, shall we not receive those merciless stings, or be introduced to what “Josh” calls the “business end of the bee?” Perhaps there is no more cause- less, or more common dread, in existence, than this of bees’ stings. When bees are gathering, they will never sting unless. provoked. When at the hives—especially if Italians—they will rarely make an attack. The common belief, too, that some persons are more liable to attack than othets, is, I think, put too strong. With the best opportunity to judge, with our hundreds of students, I think I may safely say that one is almost always as liable to attack as another, except that he is more quiet, or does not greet the usually amiable passer-by, with those terrific thrusts, which would vanquish even a practiced pugilist. Occasionally a person may have a peculiar odor about his person that angers -bees and invites. their darting tilts, with drawn swords, venom-tipped, yet, though I take my large classes each season, at frequent inter- vals, to see and handle the bees, each for himself, I still await the first proof of the fact, that one person is more liable to be stung than another, providing each carries himself with that composed and dignified bearing, that is so pleasing to the bees. True, some people, filled with dread, and the belief that bees regard them with special hate and malice, are so ready for the battle, that they commence the strife with nervous head-shakes and beating of the air, and thus force the bees to battle, nolens volens. believe that only such are regarded with special aversion by the bees. Hence, I believe that no one need be stung. Bees should never be jarred, nor irritated by quick motions. Those with nervous temperaments—and I plead very guilty on this point—need not:give up, but at first better protect 196 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. their faces, and perhaps even their hands, till time and expe- rience show them that fear is vain; then they will divest themselves of all such useless encumbrances. Bees are more cross when they are gathering no honey, and at such times, black bees and hybrids, especially, are so irritable that even the experienced apiarist will wish a veil. THE BEST BEE-VEIL. This should be made of black tarlatan, sewed up like a bag, a half yard long, without top or bottom, and with a diameter of the rim of a common straw-hat. Gather the top with braid, so that it will just slip over the crown of the hat— else, sew it to the edge of the rim of some cheap, cool hat, in fact, I prefer this style—and gather the bottom with rubber cord or rubber tape, so that it may be drawn over the hat rim, and then over the head, as we adjust the hat. Some prefer to dispense with the rubber cord at the bottom (Fig. 62), and have the veil long so as to be gathered in by the coat or dress. If the black tarlatan troubles by coloring the shirt or collar, the lower part may be made of white net- ‘ting. When in use, the rubber cord draws the lower part close about the neck, or the lower part tucks within the coat ‘or vest (Fig. 62), and we are safe. This kind of a veil is MANUAL UF THE APIARY. 197° cool, does not impede vision at all, and can be made by any woman at a cost of less than twenty cents. Common buck-. skin or sheep-skin gloves can be used, as it will scarcely pay’ to get special gloves for the purpose, for the most timid per- son—I speak from experience—will soon consider gloves an. unnecessary nuisance. Special rubber gloves are sold by those who keep on hand apiarian supplies. Some apiarists think that dark clothing is specially ob-- noxious to bees. For ladies, my friend, Mrs. Baker, recommends a dress which, by use of the rubber skirt-lift or other device, can be instantly raised or lowered. This will be convenient in the apiary, and tidy anywhere. The Gabrielle style is preferred, and of a length just to reach the floor. It should be belted at the waist, and cut down from the neck in front, one-third the length of the waist, to permit the tucking in of the veil. The under-waist should fasten close about the neck. The sleeves should be quite long to allow free use of the arms, and gathered in with a rubber cord at the wrist, which will hug the rubber gauntlets or arm, and prevent bees from crawl- ing up the sleeves. The pantalets should be straight and full, and should also have the rubber cord in the hem to draw them close about the top of the shoes. Mrs. Baker also places great stress on the wet “ head-cap,” which she believes the men even would find a great comfort. This is a simple, close-fitting cap, made of two thicknesses. of coarse toweling. The head is wet with cold water, and the cap wet in the same, wrung out, and placed on the head. Mrs. Baker would have the dress neat and clean, and so- trimmed ’that the lady apiarist would ever be ready to greet her brother or sister apiarists. In such a dress there is no danger of stings, and with it there is that show of neatness and taste, without which no pursuit could attract the atten- tion, or at least the patronage, of our refined women. TO QUIET BEES, In harvest seasons, the bees, especially if Italians, can almost always be handled without their showing resentment. But at other times, and whenever they object to necessary 198 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. familiarity, we have only to cause them to fill with honey to render them harmless, unless we pinch them. This can be done by closing the hive so that the bees cannot get out, and then rapping on the hive for four or five minutes. Those within will fill with honey, those without will be tamed by surprise, and all will be quiet. Sprinkling the bees with sweetened water will also tend to render them amiable, and will make them more ready to unite, to receive a queen, and less apt to sting. Still another method, more convenient, is to . smoke the bees. A little smoke blown among the bees will scarcely ever fail to quiet them, though I have known black bees in autumn, to be very slow to yield. Dry cotton cloth, closely wound and sewed or tied, or better, pieces of dry, rotten wood, are excellent for the purpose of smoking. These are easily handled, and will burn fora long time. But best of all is a BELLOWS-SMOKER. This is a tin tube attached to a bellows. Cloth or rotten wood can be burned in the tube, and will remain burning along time. The smoke can be directed at pleasure, the bellows easily worked, and the smoker used without any dis- agreeable effects or danger from fire. It can be got from any dealer in bee apparatus, and only costs from $1.25 to $2.00. I most heartily recommend it to all. There are two smokers in use, which I have found very valuable, and both of which are worthy of recommendation. TIE QUINBY SMOKER. This smoker (Fig. 63, a) was a gift to bee-keepers by the late Mr. Quinby, and not patented ; though I supposed it was, and so stated in a former edition of this work. Though a similar device had been previously used in Europe, without doubt Mr. Quinby was not aware of the fact, and as he was the person to bring it to the notice of bee-keepers, and to make it so perfect as to challenge the attention and win the favor of apiarists instanter, he is certainly worthy of great praise, and deserving of hearty gratitude. This smoker, until a. better one appeared, was a very valuable and desirable instrument. Its faults were, lack of strength, too small a MANUAL OF THE APTARY. 199 fire-tube, too little draft when not in use, so that the fire would go out, and too great liability to fall over on the side, when the fire was sure to be extinguished. Many of these Fie. 63. defects, however, have been corrected, and other improve- ments made in a new smoker, called the Improved Quinby (Fig. 63. 8). THE BINGHAM SMOKER. This smoker (Fig. 64) not only meets all the requirements, which are wanting in the old Quinby smoker, but shows by its Fia. 64. whole construction, that it has not only as a whole, but in every part, been subject to the severest test, and the closest thought and study. ; 200 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. At first sight this seems an improved copy of Mr. Quinby’s smoker, and so I first thought, though I only saw it in Mr. Bingham’s hand at a Convention. I have since used it, examined it in every part, and have to say that it is not a Quinby smoker. The bellows, the valve, the cut-off, and even the form, are all peculiar. The special point to be commended, and, I suppose, the only one patentable, is the cut-off between the bellows and fire-tube, so that the fire seldom goes out, while even hard-wood, as suggested by the inventor, forms an excellent and ever-ready fuel. The valve for the entrance of air to the bellows, permits rapid work, the spring is of the best clock-spring material, the leather perfect, not split sheep- skin, while the whole construction of the bellows, and the plan of the fire-screen and cut-off draft, show much thought and ingenuity. I am thus full in this description, that I may not only benefit my readers, all of whom will want asmoker, but also out of gratitude to Mr. Bingham, who has conferred such a favor on American apiarists. There are three sizes, which may be bought for $1.00, $1.50 and $1.75, respectively, including postage. Mr. ‘Bingham, to protect himself, and preserve the quality of his invention, has procured a patent. This, provided he has only patented his .own invention, is certainly his right, which I think honesty requires us all to respect. Like Mr. Langstroth, he has given us a valuable instrument ; let us see that he is not defrauded out of the justly earned reward for his invention. Brother apiarists, let us cease this unjust clamor against. patents and patentees. If a man procures a patent on a worthless thing, let him alone, and where is thedamage? If a man procures a patent ona valuable and desirable invention, then buy it, or pay for the right to make it, and thus keep the Eighth and Tenth Commandments (Exodus, 20th chap., 8th and 10th verses). Let us never buy an article unless we know it is valuable and desirable for us, no matter how stoutly importuned ; but for honesty’s sake, and that we may encourage more inventions, let us respect a man’s patent as we would any other property. If we are in doubt as to the correctness of some person’s claim, let us not be forced to pay a bonus, but first write to some candid editor or other authority, and if we find a man hasa right to the article, then 2 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 201 pay as we would any other debt. J should be very suspicious of any man’s honesty who was not willing to respect such rights. TO SMOKE BEES. Approach the hive, blow a little smoke in at the entrance, then open from above, and blow in smoke as required. If at any time the bees seem irritable, a few puffs from the smoker will subdue them. Thus, any person may handle his bees with perfect freedom and safety. Ifat any time the fire- chamber and escape-pipe become filled with soot, they can easily be cleaned by revolving an iron or hard-wood stick in- side of them. TO CURE STINGS. In case a person is stung, he should step back a little for a moment, as the pungent odor of the venom is likely to anger the bees and induce further stinging. The sting should be withdrawn, and if the pain is such as to prove troublesome, apply a little ammonia. The venom is an acid, and is neu- tralized by the alkali. Pressing over the sting with the barrel of a watch-key is also said to be of some use in staying the progress of the poison in the circulation of the blood. In ease horses are badly stung, as sometimes happens, they should be taken as speedily as possible into a barn (a man, too, may escape angry bees by entering a building), where the bees will seldom follow, then wash the horses in soda water, and cover with blankets wet in cold water. THE SWEAT THEORY. It is often stated that sweaty horses and people are obnoxious to the bees, and hence, almost sure targets for their barbed arrows. In warm weather I perspire most profusely, yet am scarcely ever stung, since I have learned to control my nerves. I once kept my bees in the front yard—they looked beautiful on the green lawn—within two rods of a main thoroughfare, and not infrequently let my horse, covered with sweat upon my return from a drive, crop the grass, while cool- ing off, right in the same yard. Of course, there was some danger, but I never knew my horse to get stung. Why, then, the theory? May not the more frequent stings be consequent 202 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. upon the warm, nervous condition of the individual? The man is more ready to strike and jerk, the horse to stamp and switch. The switching of the horse’s tail, like the whisker trap of a full beard, will anger even a good-natured bee. I should dread the motions more than the sweat, though it may be true that there is a peculiarity in the odor from either the sensible or insensible perspiration of some persons, that an- gers the bees and provokes the use of their terrible weapons. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 203 CHAPTER XIV. COMB FOUNDATION. Every apiarist of experience knows that empty combs in frames, comb-guides in the sections, to tempt the bees and to insure the proper position of the full combs, in fact, combs of almost any kind or shape, are of great importance. So every skillful apiarist is very careful to save all drone-comb that is cut out of the brood-chamber—where it is worse than useless, as it brings with it myriads of those useless gormands, the drones—to kill the eggs, remove the brood, or extract the honey, and to transfer it to the sections. He is equally care- ful to keep all his worker-comb, so long as the cells are of proper size to domicile full-sized larvae, and never to sell any comb, or even comb-honey, unless a much greater price makes it desirable. No wonder, then, if comb is so desirable, that German thought and Yankee ingenuity have devised means of giving the bees at least a start in this important, yet expensive work Fie. 65. of comb-building, and hence the origin of another great aid to the apiarist—comb foundation (Fig. 65). HISTORY. For more than twenty years the Germans have used im- pressed sheets of wax asa foundation for comb, as it was first made by Herr Mehring, in 1857. These sheets are four or five times as thick as the partition at the centre of natural comb, 20-4 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. which is very thin, only 1-180 of an inch thick. Thisis pressed between metal plates so accurately formed that the wax re- ceives rhomboidal impressions which are a fac simile of the basal wall or partition between the opposite cells of natural comb. The thickness of this sheet is no objection, as it is found that the bees almost always thin it down to the natural thickness, and probably use the shavings to form the walls. AMERICAN FOUNDATION. Mr. Wagner secured a patent on foundation in 1861, but as: the article was already in use in Germany, the patent was, as we understand, of no legal value, and. certainly, as it did nothing to bring this desirable article into use, it had no virtual value. Mr. Wagner was also the first to suggest the idea of” rollers. In Langstroth’s work, edition of 1859, p. 373, occurs the following, in reference to printing or stamping combs: “Mr. Wagner suggests forming these outlines with a simple- instrument somewhat like a wheel cake cutter. When a large number are to be made, a machine might easily be constructed which would stamp them with great rapidity.” In 1866, the King Brothers, of New York, in accordance with the above suggestion, invented the first machine with rollers, the pro- duct of which they tried but failed to get patented. These stamped rollers were Jess than two inches long. This machine was useless, and failed to bring foundation into general use. In 1874, Mr. Frederick Weiss, a poor German, invented the machine which brought the foundation into general use. His machine had lengthened rollers—they being six inches long— and shallow grooves between the pyramidal projections, so that there was a very shallow cell raised from the basal im- pression as left by the German plates. This was the machine on which was made the beautiful and practical foundation sent out by “John Long,” in 1874 and 1875, and which proved to the American apiarists that foundation machines, and foun- dation, too, were to be a success. I used some of this early foundation, and have been no more successful with that made by the machines of to-day. To Frederick Wess, then, are Americans and the world indebted for this invaluable aid to the apiarist. Yet, the poor old man has, I fear, received very meager profits from this great invention, while some MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 205 ‘writers ignore his services entirely, not granting him the poor meed of the honor. Since that time many machines have been made, without even a thank you, as I believe, to this -old man, Weiss. Does not this show that patents, or.some- thing—a higher morality, if you please—is necessary, that men may secure justice? True, faulty foundation, and faulty machines were already in use, but it was the inventive skill -of Mr. Weiss that made foundation cheap and excellent, and thus popularized it with the American apiarists. These Weiss machines turn out the comb-foundation not only of exquisite mold, but with such rapidity that it can ‘be made cheap and practicable. Heretofore these machines Fie. 66. ‘have been sold at an enormous profit. Last November, 1877, I expostulated with one of the manufacturers of American machines, because of the high price, saying, as I looked at ‘one of the machines: These cught to be sold for thirty or forty dollars, instead of one hundred dollars. He replied that such machines—with rollers, not plates—that gave the foundation the exact figure of natural comb, were only made, he thought, by the person who made his machines, and thus ‘convinced me that said person should be rewarded, amply rewarded, for his invention. But.as I have since learned that this is only the Weiss machine, and does no more perfect -work, I now think Mr. Weiss should receive the super-extra profits. Even with machines at one hundred dollars, founda- 206 MANUAL OF THE APIARY tion was profitable, as I with many others have found. But with the present price—forty dollars, which I think, judging from the simplicity of the machine, advertised at that price (Fig. 66), must be reduced still lower—we can hardly conceive what an immense business this is soon to become. HOW FOUNDATION IS MADE. The process of making the foundation is very simple. Thin sheets of wax, as thin as is consistent with strength, are simply passed between the rollers, which are so made as to stamp worker or drone foundation, as may be desired. The rollers are well covered with starch-water to secure against adhesion. Two men can roll out about four hundred pounds. per day. TO SECURE THE WAX SHEETS. To make the thin sheets of wax, Mr. A. I. Root takes shects or plates of galvanized iron with a wooden handle. These are - cooled by dipping in ice-water, and then are dipped two, or three times if the wax is very hot, in the melted wax, which is maintained at the proper temperaturé by keeping it in a ‘double-walled vessel, with hot water in the outer chamber. Fia. 67. b Such a boiler, too, prevents burning of the wax, which would Tuin it, while it is being melted. After dipping the plates in the wax, they are again dipped, when dripping has ceased, into: the cold water, after which the sheets of wax are cleaved off, the plates brushed, wiped, cooled, and dipped again. The MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 207 boiler used in melting the wax has the gate with a fine wire sieve attached near the top, so that the wax as it is drawn off into the second boiler, will be thoroughly cleansed. Mr. Root states that two men and a boy will thus make four hundred pounds of wax sheets in a day, Others use wooden plates on which to mold the sheets, whilc the Hetherington brothers prefer, and are very success- ful with a wooden cylinder, which is made to revolve in the melted wax, and is so hinged, that it can be speedily raised above or lowered into the liquid. ‘For cutting foundation, nothing is so admirable as the Carlin cutter (Fig. 67, a), which is like the wheel glass-cutters sold in the shops, except that a larger wheel of tin takes the place of the one of hardened steel. Mr. A. I. Root has suggested a grooved board (Fig. 67, 6) to go with the above, the distance between the grooves being equal to the desired width of the strips of comb foundation to be cut. USE OF FOUNDATION.’ I have used foundation, as have many other more extensive apiarists, with perfect success in the section-boxes. The bees have so thinned it that even epicures could not tell comb- honey with such foundation, from that wholly made by the bees. Yet, I forbear recommending it for such use. When such men as Hetherington, Moore, Ellwood, and L. C0. Root,. protest against a course, it is well to pause before we adopt it ; so, while I have used foundation, I think with some small ad- vantage in sections and boxes for three years, I shall still pronounce against it. It will not be well to have the word artificial hitched on to our comb-honey. I think it exceedingly wise to maintain invio- late in the public mind the idea that comb-honey is par excellence, a natural product. And as Captain Hetherington aptly suggests, this argument is all the more weighty, in view of the filthy condition of much of our commercial bees-wax. Again, our bees may not always thin the foundation, and we risk our reputation in selling it in comb-honey, and an unquestioned reputation is too valuable to be endangered in this way, especially as in these days of adulteration, we may not 208 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. know how much paraffine, etc., there is in our foundation, unless we make it ourselves. Lastly, there is no great advantage in its use in the sections, as drone-comb is better, and with caution and care this can be secured in ample quantities to furnish very generous starters for all our sections. This will readily adhere, if the edge be dipped into melted beeswax, and applied to the sections. If any one should still be disposed to make such use of foundation, they should only purchase of very reliable parties, that they may be sure to use only such wax as is genuine, yellow, clean, and certainly unmixed with paraffine, or any of the commercial products which were first used to adulter- ate the wax. Only pure, clean, unbleached wax should be used in making foundation. We should be very careful not to put on the market any comb-honey where the founda- tion had not been properly thinned by the bees. Perhaps a very fine needle would enable one to determine this point without injury to the honey. But the most promising use of foundation, to which there can be no objection, is in the brood-chamber. It is astonish- ing to see how rapidly the bees will extend the cells, and how readily the queen will stock them with eggs if of the right size, five cells tothe inch. Zhe foundation should always be the right size either for worker or drone-comb. Of course the latter size would never be used in the brood-cham- ber. The advantage of foundation is, first, to insure worker- comb, and thus worker-brood, and second, to furnish wax, so that the bees may be free to gather honey. We proved in our apiary the past two seasons, that by use of foundation, and a little care in pruning out the drone-comb, we could limit or even exclude drones from our hives, and we have but to examine the capacious and constantly crowded stomachs of these idlers, to appreciate the advantage of such a course. Bees may occasionally tear down worker-cells and build drone-cells in their place ; but such action, I believe, is not sufficiently extensive to ever cause anxiety. I am also certain that bees that have to secrete wax to form comb, do much less gathering. Wax secretion seems voluntary, and when rapid seems to require quiet and great consumption of food. If we make two artificial colonies equally strong, sup- ply the one with combs, and withhold them from the other, MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 209 we will find that this last sends much fewer bees to the fields, while all the bees are more or less engaged in wax secretion. Thus the other colony gains much more rapidly in honey, first, because more bees are storing; second, because less food is consumed. This is undoubtedly the reason why extracted-honey can be secured in far greater abundance than can comb-honey- The foundation if used the full depth of the frame, stretches so that many cells are so enlarged as to be used for drone- brood. This demands, if we use the sheets unstrengthened, that they only be used as guides, not reaching more than one- third of the depth of the frame. Strips not less than four inches wide will not sag to do any harm. The foundation, too, should not quite reach the sides of the frame, as by expansion it is liable to warp and bend. Captain J. KH. Hetherington has invented a cure for this stretching and warp- ing, by strengthening the foundation. To do this, he runs several fine copper wires into the foundation as it passes through the machine. I understand, too, that Mr. M. Metcalf, of this State, has a similar device now being patented. This is a valuable suggestion, as it permits full-sized sheets of foundation to be inserted in the frames. I presume that very soon all worker-foundation will contain such wires. TO FASTEN THE FOUNDATION. In the thin sections, the foundation can -best be fastened ‘oy use of the melted wax. To accomplish this, I have used a block made thus : Saw a fifteen-sixteenths inch board so that it will just exactly fill a section. Screw this to a second board, which is one-half inch broader each way, so that the larger under board will project one-quarter of an inch each side the top board. Now set the section over the top board, place the foundation, cut a trifle shorter than the inside of the section, within, close to the top and one side of the section, and cause it to adhere by running on a little of the melted wax, which, by use of a kerosene lamp or stove, may be kept melted. If the basin is double-walled, with water in the ‘outer chamber and wax in the inner, it is much safer, as then the wax will never burn. 210 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. If the tops of the sections are thick, they may be grooved, and by crowding the foundation into the groove, and, if necessary, pressing it with a thin wedge, it will be securely held. This last method will work nicely in case of fastening into the brood-frames. But I have found that I could fasten them rapidly and very securely by simply pressing them against the rectangular projection from the top-bar already described (page 134). In this case a block (Fig. 68, @) should reach Fie. 68. TTT 2 Hi (a, up into the frame from the side which is nearest to the rectangu- lar projection—it will be remembered that the projection (Fig. 36) is a little to one side of the centre of the top-bar, so that the foundation shall hang exactly in the centre—so far that its upper surface would be exactly level with the upper surface of the rectangular projection. This block, like the one de- scribed above, has shoulders (Fig. 68, ¢), so that it will always reach just the proper distance into the frame. It is also rabbeted at the edge where the projection of the top-bar of the frame will rest, (Fig. 68, 4), so that the projec- tion has a solid support, and will not split off with pressure. We now set our frame on this block, lay on our foundation, cut the size we desire, which, unless strengthened, will be as. long as the frame, and about four inches wide. The founda- tion will rest firmly on the projection and block, and touch the top-bar, at every point. We now take a board as thick as the projection is deep, and as wide (Fig. 69, d) as the frame is long, which may be trimmed off, soas to have a convenient handle (Fig. 69, ¢), and by wetting the edge of this (Fig. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 211 69, @) either in water, or, better, starch-water, and pressing with it on the foundation above the projection, the foundation will be made to adhere firmly to the latter, when the frame may be raised with the block, taken off, and another fastened as before. I have practiced this plan for two years, and have had admirable success. I have very rarely known the founda- Fig. 69. tion to drop, though it must be remembered that our hives are shaded, and our frames small. The above methods are successful, but probably will receive valuable modifications at the hands of the ingenius apiarists of our land. Study in this direction will unquestionably pay, as the use of this material is going to be very extensive, and any improvements will be hailed with joy by the bee- keeping fraternity. SAVE THE WAX. As foundation is becoming so popular, and is destined to come into general use, it behooves us all to be very careful that no old comb goes to waste. Soiled drone-comb, old, worth- less worker-comb, and ali fragments that cannot be used in the hives, together with cappings, after the honey is drained out through a coarse bag or colander—which process may be hastened by a moderate heat, not sufficient to melt the wax, and frequent stirring—should be melted, cleansed, and molded into cakes of wax, soon to be again stamped, not by the bees, but by wondrous art. METHODS. A slow and wasteful method is to melt in a vessel of heated water, and to purify by turning off the top, or allowing to cool, when the impurities at the bottom are scraped off, and the process repeated till all impurities are eliminated. A better method to. separate the wax is to put it into a strong, rather coarse bag, then sink this in water and boil, 212 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. At intervals the comb in the bag should be pressed and stirred. The wax will collect on top of the water. To prevent the bag from burning, it should be kept from touching the bottom of the vessel by inverting a basin in the bottom of the latter, or else by using a double-walled vessel. The process should be repeated till the wax is perfectly cleansed. But, as wax is to become so important, and as the above methods are slow, wasteful, and apt to give a poor quality of wax, specialists, and even amateurs who keep as many as ten or twenty colonies of bees, may well procure a wax ex- tractor (Fig. 70). This is also a foreign invention, the oi ic | first being made by Prof. Gerster, of Berne, Switzerland. These cost from five to seven dollars, are made of tin, are very convenient and admirable, and can be procured of any dealer in apiarian supplies. By this invention, all the wax, even of the oldest combs, can be secured, in beautiful condition, and as it is perfectly neat, there is no danger of provoking the “ best woman in the world,” as we are in danger of doing by use of either of the above methods—for what is more untidy and perplexing than to have wax boil over on the stove, and perhaps get on to the floor, and be generally scattered about. All pieces of comb should be put into a close pox, and if any larvee are in it, the comb should be melted so frequently that it would not smell badly. By taking pains, both in collecting and melting, the apiarist will be surprised at the close of the season, as he views his numerous and beautiful cakes of comb, and rejoice as he thinks how little trouble it has all cost. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 213. CHAPTER XV. MARKETING HONEY. No subject merits more attention by the apiarist than that: of marketing honey. There is no question.but that the supply is going to continually increase, hence, to sustain the price: we must stimulate the demand, and by doing this we shall not only supply the people with a food element which is. necessary to health, but we shall also supersede in part the commercial syrups, which are so adulterated as not only to: be crowded with filth the most revolting, but are often even teeming with poison. (Report of Michigan Board of Health. for 1874, pp. 75-79.) To bring, then, to our neighbor’s table: the pure, wholesome, delicious nectar, right from the hive, is. philanthropy, whether he realizes it or not. Nor is it difficult to stimulate the demand. I have given special attention to this topic for the last few years, and am free to say, that not a tithe of the honey is consumed in our- country that might and should be. , HOW TO INVIGORATE THE MARKETS. First. See that no honey goes to market from your apiary- that is not in the most inviting form possible. Grade ail the honey thoroughly, and expect prices to correspond with the grade. See that every package and vessel is not only attract- ive, but so arranged as not to make the dealer any trouble or cause him any vexation. One leaky can or crate may do great injury. Second. See that every grocer in your vicinity has honey constantly on hand. Do all you can to build up a home mar- ket. The advice to sell to only one or two dealers is wrong” and pernicious. Whether we are to buy or sell, we shall find almost always that it will be most satisfactory to deal with men whom we know, and who are close at hand. Only when. 214 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. you outgrow your home market should you ship to distant places. This course will limit the supply in the large cities, and thus raise the prices in the great marts, whose prices fix those in the country. Be sure to keep honey constantly in the markets. . Third. Insist that each grocer makes the honey very con- spicuous. If necessary, supply large, fine labels, with your own name almost as prominent as is that of the article. Fourth.’ Deliver the honey in small lots, so that it will be sure to be kept in inviting form, and, if possible, attend to the delivery yourself, that you may know that all is done “decently and in order.” Fifth. Instruct your grocers that they may make the honey show to the best effect, and thus captivate the purchaser through the sight alone. Sixth. Call local conventions, that all in the ecommu- nity may know and practice the best methods, so that the markets may not be demoralized by poor, unsalable honey. Of course, the method of preparation will depend largely, and vary greatly, upon the style of honey to be sold, so we will consider these kinds separately. EXTRACTED HONEY. As before intimated, extracted honey has all the flavor, and is in every way equal, if not superior—comb itself is innu- tritious, and very indigestible—tocomb-honey. When people once know its excellence—know that it is not “strained ”— let us, as apiarists, strive in every way to kill that word— then the demand for this article will be vastly increased, to the advantage both of the consumer and the apiarist. Explain to each grocer what we mean by the word extracted, _ and ask him to spread wide the name and character of the honey. Leave cups of the honey with the editors and men of influence, and get them to discuss its origin and merits. I speak from experience, when I say that in these ways the reputation and demand for extracted honey can be increased to a surprising degree, and with astonishing rapidity. HOW TO TEMPT THE CONSUMER. First. Have it chiefly in small cups—jelly cups are best. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 215 Many persons will pay twenty-five cents for an article, when if it cost fifty cents they would not think of purchasing. Second. Only put it in such vessels as jelly cups or glass fruit jars, ete., that will be useful in every household when the honey is gone, that the buyer may feel that the vessel is clear gain. Third. Explain to the grocer that if kept above the tem- perature of 70° or 80° F., it will not granulate, that granula- tion is a pledge of purity and superiority, and show him how easy it is to reduce the crystals, and ask him to explain this to his customers. If necessary, liquify some of the granu- lated honey in his presence. Lastly. If you do not deliver the honey yourself, be sure that the vessels will not leak in transit. It is best, in case jelly cups are used, that they be filled at the grocery. And don’t forget the large label, which gives the kind of honey, grade, and producer's name. COMB-HONEY. This, from its wondrous beauty, especially when light- colored and immaculate, will always be a coveted article for the table, and will ever, with proper care, bring the highest price paid for honey. So it will always be best to work for this, even though we may not be able to procure it in such ample profusion as we may the extracted. He who has all kinds, will be able to satisfy every demand, and will most surely meet with success. RULES TO BE OBSERVED. This, too, should be chiefly in small sections (Fig. 50), for, as before stated, such are the packages that surely sell. Sections from four to six inches square will just fill a plate nicely, and look very tempting to the proud housewife, especially if some epicurean friends are to be entertained. The sections should surely be in place at the dawn of the white clover season, so that the apiarist may secure the most of this irresistible nectar, chaste as if capped by the very snow itself. They should be taken away as soon as capped, as delay makes them highways of travel for the bees, which always mar their beauty. 216 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. : When removed, if demanded, glass the sections, but before this, we should place them in hives one upon another, or special boxes made tight, with a close cover, in which to store either brood-frames in winter or sections at any season, and sulphur them. This is quickly and easily done by use of the smoker. Get the fire in the smoker well to burning, add the sulphur, then place this in the top hive, or top of the special box. The sulphurous fumes will descend and deal out death to all moth larve. This should always be done before shipping the honey, if we regard our reputations as precious. It is well to do this immediately upon removal, and also two weeks after, so as to destroy the moth larvee not hatched when the sections are removed. If separators have been used, these sections are in good condition to be glassed, and are also in nice shape to ship even without glass, as they may stand side by side and not mar the comb. The shipping-crate (Fig. 71) should be strong, neat and cheap, with handles as seen in Fig. 71—such handles are also Fig. 71. j Rs mel | i \ ae = | = alll SE N convenient in the ends of the hives, and can be cut in an instant by having the circular-saw set to wabble. With handles the crate is more convenient, and is more sure to be set on its bottom. The crate should also be glassed, as the sight of the comb will say: “Handle with care.” Mr. Heddon also makes a larger crate (Fig. 72), which is neat and cheap. Muth’s crate is like Heddon’s, only smaller. It is well, too, to wrap the sections in paper, as thus break- age of one will not mean general ruin. However, this would be unnecessary in case the sections were of veneer and glassed, as before described. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 217 In groceries, where the apiarist keeps honey for sale, it will pay him to furnish his own boxes. These should be made of white-wood, very neat, and glassed in front to show the honey, and the cover so fixed that unglassed sections— and these, probably, will soon become the most popular— cannot be punched or fingered. Be sure, too, that the label, Fig. 72. with kind of honey, grade, and name of apiarist, be so plain that “he who runs may read.” Comb-honey that is to be kept in the cool weather of -autumn, or the cold of winter, must be kept in warm rooms, or the comb will break from the section when handled. By ‘keeping it quite warm for some days previous to shipment, it may be sent. to market even in winter, but must be handled very carefully, and must make a quick transit. Above all; let “taste and neatness” ever be your motto. 218 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. CHAPTER XVI. HONEY PLANTS. As bees do not make honey, but only gather it, and as honey is mainly derived from certain flowers, it of course follows that the apiarist’s success will depend largely upon the abundance of honey-secreting plants in the vicinity of his apiary. True it is that certain bark and plant lice secrete a kind of liquid sweet—honey of doubtful reputation—which, in the dearth of anything better, the bees seem glad to appropriate. I have thus seen the bees thick about a large bark-louse which attacks the tulip tree, and thus often destroys one of our best honey trees. This is an undescribed species ‘of the genus Lecaniwm. 1 have also seen them thick about three species of plant lice. One, the Pemphigus imbrica- tor, Fitch, works on the beech tree. Its abdomen is thickly covered with long wool, and it makes a comical show as it wags this up and down upon the least disturbance. The leaves of trees attacked by this louse, as also those beneath the trees, are fairly gummed with a sweetish substance. I have found that the bees avoid this substance, except at times of extreme drouth and long protracted absence of honeyed bloom. It was the source of no inconsiderable stores during the terribly parched autumn of Chicago’s great disaster. (See Appendix, page 286). Another species of Pemphigus gives rise to certain soli- tary plum-like galls, which appear on the upper surface of the redelm. These galls are hollow, with a thin skin, and within the hollows are the lice, which secrete an abundant sweet that often attracts the bees to a feast of fat things, as the gall is torn apart, or cracks open, so that the sweet exudes. This sweet is anything but disagreeable, and may not be unwhole- some to the bees. Another aphis, of a black hue, works on the branches of our MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 219 willows, which they often entirely cover, and thus greatly dam- age another tree valuable for both honey and pollen. Were it not that they seldom are so numerous two years in succession, they would certainly banish from among us one of our most ornamental and valuable honey-producing trees. These are fairly thronged in September and October, and not unfre- quently in spring and summer if the lice are abundant, by bees, wasps, ants, and various two-winged flies, all eager to lap up the oozing sweets. This louse is doubtless the Lachnus dentatus, of Le Baron, and the Aphis salicti, of Harris. Bees also get, in some regions, a sort of honey-dew, which enables them to add to their stores with surprising rapidity. I remember one morning while riding on horse- back along the Sacramento river, in California, I broke off a willow twig beside the road when, to my surprise, I found it was fairly decked with drops of honey. Upon further examination I found the willow foliage was abun- dantly sprinkled by these delicious drops. These shrubs were undisturbed by insects, nor were they under trees. Here then was areal case of honey-dew, which must have been distilled through the night by the leaves. I never saw any such phenomenon in Michigan, yet others have. Dr. A. H. Atkins, an accurate and conscientious observer, has noted this honey-dew more than once here in Central Michigan. Bees also get some honey from oozing sap, some of question- able repute from about cider mills, some from grapes and other fruit which have been crushed, or eaten and torn by wasps and other insects. That bees ever tear the grapes is a question of which I have failed to receive any personal proof, though for years I have been carefully seeking it. I have lived among the vineyards of California, and have often watched bees about vines in Michigan, but never saw bees tear open the grapes. I have laid crushed grapes in the apiary, when the bees were not gathering, and were ravenous for stores, which, when covered with sipping bees, were replaced with sound grape-clusters, which in no instance were mutilated. I have thus been led to doubt if bees ever attack sound grapes, though quick to improve the opportunities which the oriole’s beak and the stronger jaws of wasps offer them. Still, Prof. Riley feels sure that bees are sometimes 220 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. thus guilty, and Mr. Bidwell tells me he has frequently seen bees rend sound grapes, which they did with their feet. Yet, if this is the case, it is certainly of rare occurrence, and is more than compensated by the great aid which the bees afford the fruit-grower in the great work of cross-fertili- zation, which is imperatively necessary to his success, as has been so well shown by Dr. Asa Gray and Mr. Chas. Darwin. It is true that cross-fertilization of the flowers, which can only be accomplished by insects, and early in the season by the honey-bee, is often, if not always,necessary to a full yield of fruit and vegetables. J am informed by Prof. W. W. Tracy, that the gardeners in the vicinity of Boston keep bees that they may perform this duty. Even then, if Mr. Bidwell and Prof. Riley are right, and the bee does, rarely—for surely this is very rare, if ever—destroy grapes, still they are, beyond any possible question, invaluable aids to the pomologist. But the principal source of honey is still from the flowers. WHAT ARE THE VALUABLE HONEY PLANTS? In the northeastern part of our country the chief reliance for May is the fruit-blossoms, willows, and sugar maples. In June white clover yields largely of the most attractive honey, both as to appearance and flavor. In July the incomparable basswood makes both bees and apiarist jubilant. In August buckwheat offers a tribute, which we welcome, though it be dark and pungent in flavor, while with us in Michigan, August and September give us a profusion of bloom which yields to no other in the richness of its capacity to secrete honey, and is not cut off till the autumn frosts—usually about September 15.. Thousands of acres of golden rod, boneset, asters, and other autumn flowers of our new northern counties, as yet have blushed unseen, with fragrance wasted. This unoccu- pied territory, unsurpassed in its capability for fruit production, covered with grand forests of maple and basswood, and spread. with the richest of autumn bloom, offers opportunities to the practical apiarist rarely equaled except in the Pacific States, and not even there, when other privileges are considered. In these localities, two or three hundred pounds to the colony is no surprise to the apiarist, while even four or five hundred are not isolated cases. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 221 In the following table will be found a list of valuable honey plants. Those in the first column are annual, biennial ur perennial ; the annual being enclosed in a parenthesis thus: ( ); the biennial enclosed in brackets thus: [ | ; while those in the second column are shrubs or trees; the names of sLrubs being enclosed in a parenthesis. The date of commence- ment of bloom is, of course, not invariable. The one appended, in case of plants which grow in our State, is about average for Central Michigan. Those plants whose names appear in small capitals yield very superior honey. Those with (i) are useful for other purposes than honey secretion. All but those with a * are native or very common in Michigan. Those written in the plural refer to more than one species. Those followed by a t are very numerous in species. Of course I have not named all, as that, would include some hundreds which have been observed at the college, taking nearly all of the two great orders Composite and Rosacez. I have only aimed to give the most important, omitting many foreign plants of notoriety, as I have had no personal knowledge of them: DATE. Annuals or Perennials,| DATE. Shrubs or Trees. April.........-.. Dandelion. March and Ap’!|Red or Soft Maple.(a) April and May. Strawberry.(a March and Ap’}|Poplar or Aspen. ay and June .|*White Sage, California| |March and Ap’1|Silver Maple. May and June . |*Sumac, California. March and Ap’l)*Judas Tree, May and June. *CoffeeBerry,California April and May.|(Willows)t also Trees. June to July ...| WHITE CLOVER.(a) Apriland May.|*Judas Tree—South. June to July .../ ALSIKE CLOVER.(a) ay. ..-|(Shad-bush.) June to July ...|*{SWEET CLOVER.] May (Alder.) June to July ...|/*Horehound. [Weed.||Ma‘ Maples-Sugar Maple(a) June to July ...;Ox-eyed Daisy— Bad Crab Apple. June to July .../Bush Honeysuckle. - (Hawthorns.) June to August|* Ages Fruit Trees — Apple, June to August|Mother-wort. Plum, Cherry, Pear, June to frost...|*(Borage.) etc.(a@, June to frost. ..|*(Cotton.) (a) (Currant and Goose- June to frost...|/Silk or Milk Weeds. berry.)(a) ‘Mustard)t *(Wistaria Vine- South) *(Rape.)(a) (Chinese Wistaria St. John’s Wort. Vine—South.) (MIGNONETTE.)(a) (Barberry.) ..((Corn.)(a) (Grape-vine.)(a) *(Teasel.)(a) Tulip-tree. .|*Catnip.(a) -|(Sumace.) .| Asparagus.(a) Wild-Plum. ugust.|*(Rocky M’t.Bee Plant) (Black Raspberry.) (a) .|Boneset. Locusts. July to frost. Bergamot. (RED RASPBERRY.)(a) July to frost. ‘igwort, Blackberry.) August.... Buckwheat.)(a) *Sourwood—South. August.......... Snap-dragon.) July (Button Bush.) August to frost/(GOLDEN ROD.)t July. BAsSSWwooD,(a) August to frost] Asters. July. (Virginia Creeper.) (a) August to frost|Marsh Sun-Flowers. July to August. |*Pepper-tree, Cal’a. August to frost/Tick-Seed. July to Sept..../*(St. Fohn's Worts.) August to frost|Beggar-Ticks. August.......... (Late Sumac.) August to frostiSpanish Needles. August to Sept.!*Red Gum, California. 222 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. DESCRIPTION WITH PRACTICAL REMARKS. As this subject of bee pasturage is of such prime im- portance, and as the interest in the subject is so great and widespread, I feel that details with illustrations will be more than warranted. We have abundant experience to show that forty or fifty _ Fie. 73.-Maple. ~ —- colonies of bees, take the seasons as they average, are al] that a single place will sustain to the greatest advantage. Then, how significant the fact, that when the season is the best, full MANUAL OF THE APIARY. — 223: three times that number of colonies will find ample resources | to keep all employed. So this subject of artificial pasturage. becomes one well worthy close study and observation. The subject, too, is a very important one in reference to the loca- tion of the apiary. It is well to remember in this connection, that two or thrée miles should be regarded as the limit of profitable gathering. That is, apiaries of from fifty to one hundred or more colo- nies, should not be nearer than four or five miles of each other. APRIL PLANTS. As we have already seen, the apiarist does not secure the best results, even in the early spring, except the bees are encouraged by the increase of their stores of pollen and honey ; hence, in case we do not practice stimulative feeding —and many will not—it becomes very desirable to have some Fie. 74— Willow. early bloom. Happily, in all sections of the United States our desires are not in vain. F Early in spring there are many scattering wild flowers, as the blood-root (Sanguinaria canadensis), liver-leaf ({epa- 224 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. tica acutiloba), and various others of the crowfoot family, as also many species of cress, which belong to the mustard family, ete., all of which are valuable and important. The maples (Fig. 73), which are all valuable honey plants, also contribute to the early stores. Especially valuable are the silver maples (Acer dasycarpum), and the red or soft maples (Acer rubrum), as they bloom so very early, long before the leaves appear: The bees work on these, here in Michigan, the first week of April, and often in March. They are also magnificent shade trees, especially those that have the weeping habit. Their early bloom is very pleasing, their summer form and foliage beautiful, while their flaming tints in autumn are indescribable. The foreign maples, sycamore, Acer pseudo-platanus, and Norway, Acer platanoides, are also very beautiful. Whether superior to ours as honey plants, I am unable to say. The willows, too (Fig. 74), rival the maples in the early period of bloom. Some are very early, blossoming in March, while others, like the white willow (Sudix alba) (Fig. 74), bloom in May. The flowers on one tree or bush of the willow are all pistillate, that is, have pistils, but no stamens, while Fia. 75.—Judas Tree on others they are all staminate, having no pistils. On the former, they can gather only honey, on the latter only pollen. That the willow furnishes both honey and pollen is attested by the fact that I saw both kinds of trees, the pistillate and the staminate, thronged with bees the past season. The wil- low, too, from its elegant form and silvery foliage, is one of our finest shade trees. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 225 In the south of Michigan, and thence southward to Ken- tucky, and even beyond, the Judas tree, or red-bud, Cercis canadensis (Fig. 75), is not only worthy of cultivation as a honey plant, but is also very attractive, and well deserving of attention for its ornamental qualities alone. This blooms from March to May, according to the latitude. The poplars—not the tulip—also bloom in April, and are freely visited by the bees. The wood is immaculate, and is used for toothpicks. Why not use it for honey-boxes? __ MAY PLANTS. In May we have the grand sugar maple, Acer saccharinum (Fig. 73), incomparable for beauty, also all our various fruit trees, peach, cherry, plum, apple, etc., in fact all the Rosaceze Fia. 76.—American Wistaria. ¢ 6) family. Our beautiful American Wistaria, Wistaria frutes- cens (Fig. 76), the very ornamental climber, or the still more lovely Chinese Wistaria, Wistaria sinensis (Fig. 77), which has longer racemes than the native, and often blossoms twice in the season. These are the woody twiners for the apiarist. The barberry, too, Berberis vulgaris (Fig. 78), comes after fruit blossoms, and is thronged with bees in search of nectar 226 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. Fig. 77.—Chinese Wistaria. in spring, as with children in winter, in quest of the beautiful scarlet, berries, so pleasingly tart. Fie. 78 —Barberry. In California, the sumac, the coffee berry, and the famous white sage (Fig. 79), keep the bees full of activity. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 227 Fie. 79.— White Sage. 228 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. JUNE PLANTS. With June comes the incomparable white or Dutch clover, Trifolium repens (Fig. 80), whose chaste and modest bloom betokens the beautiful, luscious and unrivalled sweets which Fiq. 80.— White or Dutch Clover.. are hidden in its corolla tube. Also its sister, Alsike or Swedish, Trifolium hybrida (Fig 81), which seems to resemble both-the white and..red clover. It is a stronger grower than the white, and has a whitish blossom tinged with pink. This forms excellent pasture and hay for cattle, sheep, etc., and may well be sown by the apiarist. It will often pay apiarists to furnish neighboring farmers with seed as an inducement to grow this par. excellent honey plant. Like white clover, it blooms all through June into July. Both of these should be sown early in spring with timothy, five or six pounds of seed to the acre, in the same manner that red clover seed is sown. : ‘Sweet clover, yellow and white, Melilotus officinalis (Fig. 82), and Melilotus alba, are well named. They bloom from the middle of June to the first of October. Their perfume scents the air for long distances, and: the hum of bees that throng their flowers is like music to the apiarist’s ear. The honey, too, is just exquisite. These clovers are biennial, not 2H MANUAL OF THE APIARY. Fig. 81.—Alsike Clover. 230 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. Fig. 82.—Melilot Clover blooming the first season, and dying after they bloom the second season. Another disagreeable fact, they have no value except for honey. They are said to become pernicious weeds if allowed to spread. . MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 231 The other clovers—lucerne, yellow trefoil, scarlet trefoil, and alfalfa—have not proved of any: value with us, perhaps owing to locality. Borage, Borago officinalis (Fig. 83), an excellent bee plant, blooms from June till frost, and is visited by bees even Fie. 84.—Mignonette. in very rainy weather. It seems not to be a favorite, but is eagerly visited when all others fail to yield nectar. ' Fia. 85.—Okra. Mignonette, Reseda odorata (Fig. 84), blooms from the middle of June till frost, is unparalleled for its sweet odor, furnishes nectar in profusion, and is well -worthy cultivation. 232 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. It does not secrete well in wet weather, but in favorable weather it is hardly equalled. Okra or gumbo, Hibiscus esculentus, (Fig. 85), also blooms inJune. It is as much sought after by the bees in quest of honey, as by the cook in search of a savory vegetable, or one’ to give tone to soup. Sage, Salvia officinalis, horehound, Murrubium vulgare,. motherwort, Leonurus cardiaca, and catnip, Nepeta cataria,. which latter does not commence to bloom till July, all furnish: nice white honey, remain in bloom a long time, and are ver desirable, as they are in bloom in the honey dearth of July and August. They, like many others of the mint family (Fig. 86), are thronged with bees during the season of bloom.. Fig. 86.—Mint. The first and last are of commercial importance, and all may: well be introduced by apiarists, wherever there is any space- or waste ground. The silk or milk-weed furnishes abundant nectar from June to frost, as there are several species of the genus Asclepias, which is wide-spread in our country. This is the plant which has large pollen masses which often adhere to the legs of bees (Fig. 87), and sometimes so entrap them as to cause theirdeath. Prof. Riley once very graciously advised MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 233 planting them to kill bees. I say graciously, as I have watched these very closely, and am sure they do little harm, and are rich in nectar. Seldom a bee gets caught so as to hold it long, and when these awkward masses are carried Fia. 87.—Pollen of Milk-weed. away with the bee, they are usually left at the door of the hive, where I have often seen them in considerable numbers. The river bank hard by our apiary is lined with these sweet- smelling herbs, and we would like even more. Fie. 88.—Black Mustard. Black mustard, Sinapis nigra (Fig. 88) white mustard, Sinapis alba, and rape, Brassica campestris (Fig. 89), all look much alike, and are all admirable bee plants, as they furnish much and beautiful honey. The first, if self- 234 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. sown, blooms July 1st, the others June 1st; the first about eight weeks after sowing, the others about four. The mus- tards bloom for four weeks, rape for three. These are all specially commendable, as they may be made to bloom during the honey dearth of July and August, and are valuable plants to raise for the seed. Rape seems to be very attractive to insects, as the flea beetles and the blister beetles are often quite too much for it, though they do not usually destroy the plants till after they have blossomed. I have several times Fie. 89.—Rape. purchased what purported to be Chinese mustard, dwarf and tall; but Prof. Beal, than whom there is no better authority, tells me they are only the white and black, and certainly, they are no whit better as bee plants. These plants, with buck- wheat, the mints, borage and mignonette, are specially interesting, as they cover. or may be made to cover, the honey dearth from about July 20th to August 20th. The mustards and rape may be planted in drills about eight inches apart, any time from May 1st to July 15th. Four quarts will sow an acre. In this month blooms the tulip tree, Liriodendron tulip- tfera (Fig. 90)—often called poplar in the South—which is not only an excellent honey producer, but is one of our most MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 235 stately and admirable shade-trees. Now, too, bloom the sumacs, though one species blooms in May, the wild plum, the raspberries, whose nectar is unsurpassed in color and flavor, and the blackberry. Corn, too, is said by many to yield largely of honey as well as pollen, and the teasel, Dipsacus Fie. 90.—Tulip Sullonum (Fig. 91), is said, not only by Mr. Doolittle, but by English and German apiarists, to yield richly of beautiful honey. This last, too, has commercial importance. The 236 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. blackberry opens its petals in June, and also the fragrant locust, which, from its rapid growth, beautiful form and hand- some foliage, would rank among our first shade trees, except that it is so tardy in spreading its canopy of green, and so liable to ruinous attack by the borers, which last peculiarity it Fig. 91.—Teasel. a shares with the incomparable maples. Washing the trunks of the trees in June and July with soft soap, will in great part remove this trouble. Fic. 92.—Cotton. Now, too, our brothers of the South reap a rich harvest from the great staple, cotton (Fig. 92), which commences to MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 237 bloom early in June, and remains in blossom even to October. This belongs to the same family—Mallow—as the hollyhock, and like it, blooms and fruits through the season. JULY PLANTS. Early in this month opens the far-famed basswood or lin- den, Tilia Americana (Fig. 93), which, for the profusion Fie. 93.—Basswood. and quality of its honey has no superior. The tree, too, from its great spreading top and fine foliage, is magnificent for shade. Five of these trees are within two rods of my study window, and their grateful fragrance, and beautiful form and shade, have often been the subject. of remark by visitors. Figwort, Scrophiularia nodosa (Fig. 94), often called rattle- weed, as the seeds will rattle in the pod, and carpenter's square, as it has a square stalk, is an insignificant looking weed, with inconspicuous flowers, that afford abundant nectar from the middle of July till frost. I have received almost as many for identification as I have of the asters and golden- rods. Prof. Beal remarked to mea year or two since, that it hardly seemed possible that it could be so valuable. We 238 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. cannot always rightly estimate by appearances alone. It isa very valuable plant to be scattered in waste places. That beautiful and valuable honey plant, from Minnesota, Colorado, and the Rocky Mountains, cleome, or the Rocky Mountain bee-plant, Cleome integrifolia (Fig. 96), if self- sown, or sown early in spring, blooms by the middle of July, and lasts for long weeks. Nor can anything be more: gay than these brilliant flowers, alive with bees all through the long fall. This should be planted in fall or spring, in drills two feet apart, the plants six inches apart in the drills. The seeds, which grow in pods, are very numerous, and are said to be valuable for chickens. Now, too, commence to bloom the numerous Eupatoriums, or bonesets, or thoroughworts Fie. 94.—Figwort. (Fig. 97), which fill the marshes of our country, and the hives as well, with their rich golden nectar—precursors of that pro- fusion of bloom of this composite order, whose many species are even now budding in preparation for the sea of flowers which will deck the marsh-lands of August and September. Wild bergamot, too, Monarda fistulosa, which, like the thistles, is of importance to the apiarist, blooms in July. The little shrub of our marshes, appropriately named but- ton-bush, Cephalanthus occidentalis, (Fig. 95), also shares the attention of the bees with the linden ; while apiarists MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 239 \ Ny ‘Mb I Fie. 96.—Rocky Mountain Bee-Plant. 240 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. of the South find the sour-wood, or sorrel tree, Oxydendrum arboreum, a valuable honey tree. . This belongs to the Heath family, which includes the far-famed heather bloom of Eng- land. It also includes our whortleberry, cranberry, blueberry, and one plant which has no enviable reputation, as furnishing honey, which is very poisonous, even fatal to those who eat, the mountain laurel, Halmia latifolia. Yet, a near relative of the South Andromeda nitida, is said to furnish beautiful and wholesome honey in great quantities. The Virginia creeper also blooms in July. I wish I could say that this beautiful vine, transplendent in autumn, is a favorite with the honey-bee. Though it often, nay always, swarms with wild Fig. 95.— Button Bush. bees when in blossom, yet I never saw a honey-bee visit the ample bloom amidst its rich, green, vigorous foliage. Now, too, the St. John’s wort, Hypericum, with its many species, both shrubby and herbaceous, offers bountiful contributions to the delicious stores of the honey-bee. The catnip, too, Nepeta cataria, and our cultivated asparagus—which if MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 241 Fie. 97.—Boneset. 242 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. uncut in spring will bloom in June—so delectable for the table, and so elegant for trimming table meats and for ban- quets in autumn, come now to offer their nectarian gifts. AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER PLANTS. The cultivated buckwheat, Pagopyrum esculentum, ie. 98), usually blooms in August, as it is sown the first of July —three pecks per acre is the amount to sow—but by sowing the first of June, it may be made to bloom the middle of Fia. 98.— Buckwheat. July, when there is generally, in most localities, an absence of nectar-secreting flowers. The honey is inferior in color and flavor, though some people prefer this to all other honey. The silver-leaf buckwheat blooms longer, has more numerous flowers, and thus yields more grain than the common variety. Now, too, come the numerous golden-rods. The species of this genus, Solidago (Fig. 99), in the Eastern United States, number nearly two-score, and occupy all kinds of soils, and are at home on upland, prairie and morass. They yield abundantly of rich, golden honey, with flavor that is unsurpassed by any other. Fortunate the apiarist who can boast of a thicket of Solidagoes in his locality. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 243 The many plants usually styled sun-flowers, because of their resemblance to our cultivated plants of that name, which deck the hill-side, meadow and marsh-land, now unfurl Fig. 99.—Golden-Rod. their showy involucres, and open their modest corollas, to in- vite the myriad insects to sip the precious nectar which each of the clustered flowers secretes. Our cultivated sun- flowers, I think, are indifferent honey plants, though some Fie. 100.— Aster. : think them big with beauty, and their seeds are relished by poultry. But the asters (Fig. 100), so wide-spread, the 244 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. beggar-ticks, Bidens, and Spanish-needles of our marshes, the tick-seed, Coreopsis, also, of the low, marshy places, with hundreds more of the great family Composite, are replete with precious nectar, and with favorable seasons make the apiarist who dwells in their midst jubilant, as he watches the bees, which fairly flood the hives with their rich and delicious honey. In all of this great family, the flowers are small and inconspicuous, clustered in compact heads, and when the plants are showy with bloom, like the sun-flowers, the brilliancy is due to the involucre, or bracts which serve as a frill to dec- orate the more modest flowers. I have thus mentioned the most valuable honey plants of our country. Of course there are many omissions. Let all apiarists, by constant observation, help to fill up the list. BOOK ON BOTANY. I am often asked what books are best to make apiarists botanists. I am glad to answer this question, as the study of botany will not only be valuable discipline, but will also fur- nish abundant pleasure, and more, give important practical information. Gray’s Lessons, and Manual of Botany, in one volume, published by Ivison, Phinney, Blakeman & Co., New York, is the most desirable treatise on this subject. PRACTICAL CONCLUSIONS. ‘It will pay well for the apiarist to decorate his grounds with soft and silver maples, for their beauty and early bloom. If his soil is rich, sugar maples and lindens may well serve a similar purpose. The Judas tree, too, and tulip trees, both North and South, may well be made to ornament the apiarist’s home. For vines, obtain the wistarias. ; Sow and encourage the sowing of Alsike clover and silver- leaf buckwheat in your neighborhood. Be sure that your wife, children and bees, can often repair to a large bed of the new giant or grandiflora mignonette, and remember that it, with cleome and borage, blooms till frost. Study the bee plants of your region, and then study the above table, and pro- vide for a succession, remembering that the mustards, rape and buckwheat may be made to bloom almost at pleasure, by sow- MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 245 ing at the proper time. Don’t forget that borage and the: mustards seem comparatively indifferent to wet weather. Be sure that all waste places are stocked with motherwort, catnip, asters, etc. (See Appendix, page 289). The above dates are only true for the most part in Michi- gan and Northern Ohio, and for more Southern latitudes must be varied, which by comparison of a few, as the fruit trees, becomes no difficult matter. 246 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. CHAPTER XVII. WINTERING BEES. This is a subject, of course, of paramount importance to the apiarist, as this is the rock on which some of even the most successful have recently split. Yet I come fearlessly to consider this question, as from all the multitude of dis- asters I see no occasion for discouragement. If the problem of successful wintering has not been solved already, it surely will be, and that speedily. So important an interest was never yet vanquished by misfortune, and there is no reason to think that history is now going to be reversed. Even the worst aspect of the case—in favor of which I think, though in opposition to such excellent apiarists as Marvin, Heddon, etc., that there is no proof, and but few suggestions even— that these calamities are the effects of an epidemic, would be all powerless to dishearten men trained to reason from effect to cause. Even an epidemic—which would by no means skip by the largest, finest apiaries, owned and controlled by the wisest, most careful, and most thoughtful, as has been the case in the late “winters of our discontent,” nor only choose winters of excessive cold, or following great drouth and absence of honey secretion in which to work its hayoc— would surely yield to man’s invention. THE CAUSE OF DISASTROUS WINTERING. Epidemie, then, being set aside as no factor in the solution, to what shall we ascribe such wide-spread disasters? I fully believe, and to no branch of this subject have I given more thought, study, and observation, that all the losses may be traced either to unwholesome food, failure in late breeding of the previous year, extremes of temperature, or to pro- tracted cold with excessive dampness. I know from actual and wide-spread observation, that the severe loss of 1870 and MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 247 1871 was attended in this part of Michigan with unsuitable honey in the hive. The previous autumn was unprecedentedly ary. Flowers were rare, and ‘storing was largely from insect se- cretion,and consequently the stores were unwholesome. I tasted of honey from many hives only to find it most nauseating. I fully believe that had the honey been thoroughly extracted the previous autumn, and the bees fed good honey or sugar, no loss would have been experienced. At least it is significant that all who did so, escaped, even where their neighbors all failed. Nor less so the fact that when I discovered eight of my twelve colonies dead, and four more just alive, I cleaned the remaining ones all out, and to one no worse nor better than the others I gave good capped honey stored early the previous summer, while the others were left with their old stores, that one lived and gave the best record I have ever known, the succeeding season, while all the others died. Again, suppose that after the basswood season in July, there is no storing of honey, either from want of space, or from lack of bloom. In this case brood-rearing ceases. Yet if the weather is dry and warm, as of course it will be in August and September, the bees continue to wander about, death comes apace, and by autumn the bees are reduced in numbers, old in days, and illy prepared to brave the winter and perform the dutics of spring. I fully believe that if all the colonies of our State and country had been kept breeding by proper use of the extractor, and feeding, even till into October, we should have had a different record, especially as to spring dwindling, and consequent death. In the autumn of 1872 I kept my bees breeding till the first of October. The following winter I had no loss, while my neighbors lost all of their bees. Extremes of heat and c6ld are also detrimental to the bees. If the temperature of the hive becomes too high the bees become restless, eat more than they ought, and if confined to their hives are distended with their foeces, become diseased, besmear their comb and hives, and die. If when they become thus-disturbed, they could have a purifying flight, all would be well. Again, if the temperature becomes extremely low, the bees to keep up the animal heat must take more food ; they are uneasy, 248 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. exhale much moisture, which may settle and freeze on the outer combs about the cluster, preventing the bees from getting the needed food, and thus in this case both dysentery and starvation confront the bees. That able and far-seeing apiarist the lamented M. Quinby, was one of the first to discover this fact; and here as elsewhere gave advice that if heeded, would have saved great loss and sore disappointment. I have little doubt, in fact I know from actual investigation, that.in the past severe winters, those bees which under con- finement have been subject to severe extremes, are the ones that have invariably perished. Had the bees been kept in a uniform temperature ranging from 35° to 45° F., the record would have been materially changed. Excessive moisture, too, especially in cases of protracted cold, is always to be avoided. Bees, like all other animals, are constantly giving off moisture, which of course will be accelerated if the bees become disturbed, and are thus led to consume more food. This moisture not only acts as explained above, but also induces fungous growths. The mouldy comb is not wholesome, though it may never cause death. Hence another necessity of sufficient warmth to drive this moisture from the hive and some means to absorb it without opening the hive above and permitting a current, which will disturb the bees, and cause the greater consumption of honey. THE REQUISITE TO SAFE WINTERING—GOOD FOOD. To winter safely, then, demands that the bees have thirty pounds by weight not guess—I have known three cases when guessing meant starvaution—of good capped honey (coffee A sugar is just as good). If desired this may be fed as previ- ously explained, which should be done so early that all will be capped during the warm days of October. Let us be wary how we trust even crystallized glucose. It might be safe during a warm winter, when the bees would have frequent flights, yet prove disastrous in a cold winter. Let us use it cautiously till its merits are assured. I prefer, too, that some of the comb in the centre of the hive has empty cells, to give a better chance to cluster, and that all the combs have a small hole through the centre, that the bees may pass freely through. This hole may simply be cut with a knife, or a tin MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 249 tube the size of one’s finger may be driven through the comb, and left in if desired, in which case the comb should be pushed out of the tube, and the tube be no longer than the comb is thick. This perforatory work I always do early in October, when I extract all uncapped honey, take out all frames after I have given them the 30 lbs., by weight, of honey, confine the space with a division-board, cover with the quilt and chaff, and then leave undisturbed till the cold of November calls for further care. SECURE LATE BREEDING. Keep the bees breeding till the first of October. Except in years of excessive drouth, this will occur in many parts of Michigan without extra care. Failure may result from the presence of worthless queens. Any queens which seem not to be prolific should be superseded whenever the fact becomes evident. J regard this as most important. Few know how much is lost by tolerating feeble, impotent queens in the apiary, whose ability can only keep the colonies alive. Never keep such queens about. Here, then, is another reason for always keeping extra queens on hand. Even with excellent queens, a failure in the honey yield may cause breeding to cease. In such cases, we have only to feed as directed under the head of feeding. TO SECURE AND MAINTAIN THE PROPER TEMPERATURE. We ought also to provide against extremes of temperature. It is desirable to keep the temperature between 35° and 50° F. through the entire winter, from November to April. If no cellar or house is at hand, this may be accomplished as ‘ follows : Some pleasant dry day in late October or early No- vember, raise the stand and place straw beneath ; then sur- round the hive with a box a foot outside the hive, with movable top and open on the east ; or else have a long wooden tube, opposite the entrance, to permit flight. This tube should be six or eight inches square, to permit easy examinatior in winter. The same end may be gained by, driving stake, and putting boards around. When we crowd between the box and the hive either straw, chaff, or shavings. After placing a good thickness of'straw above the 250 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. hive, lay on the cover of the box, or cover with boards. This preserves against changes of temperature during the winter, and also permits the bees to fly if it becomes neces- sary from a protracted period of warm winter weather. I have thus kept all my bees safely during two of the disastrous winters. As there is at present no plan of wintering, which promises to serve so well for all our apiarists, in view of its cheapness, ease, convenience, and universal efficiency, I will describe.in detail the box now in use at the College, which costs only one dollar per hive, and which is convenient to store away in summer. BOX FOR PACKING. The sides of this (Fig. 101, a, a), facing east and west are three and a half feet long, two feet high on the south end, Fie. 101. L ae eae and two and a half feet on the north. They are in one piece, which is secured by nailing the boards which form them to cleats, which are one inch from the ends. The north end MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 251 (Fig. 101, 4) is three feet by two and a half feet, the south (Fig. 101, 6), three feet by two, and made the same as are the sides. The slanting top of the sides (Fig. 101, a, a) is made by using for the upper board, the strip formed by sawing diagonally from corner to corner a board six inches wide and .three feet long. The cover (Fig. 101, g), which is removed in the figure, is large enough to cover the top and project one inch at both ends. It should be battened, and held in one piece by cleats (Fig. 101, 2) four inches wide, nailed on to the ends. These will drop over the ends of the box, and thus hold the cover in place, and prevent rain and snow from driving in. When in place this slanting cover permits the rain to run off easily, and will dry quickly after a storm. By a single nail at each corner the four sides may be tacked together about the hives, when they can be packed in with straw (Fig 101), which should be carefully done if the day is cold, so as not to disquiet the bees. At the centre and bottom of the east side (Fig. 101, c), cut out a square eight inches each way, and between this and the hive place a bottomless tube (the top of this tube is represented as removed in figure to show entrance to hive), before putting around the straw and adding the cover. This box should be put in place before the bleak cold days of November, and retained in position till the stormy winds of April are passed by. This permits the bees to fly when very warm weather comes in winter or spring, and requires no attention from the apiarist. By placing two-.or three hives close together in autumn—yet never move the colonies more than three or Jour feet at any one time, as such removals involve the loss of many bees—one box may be made to cover all, and at less expense. Late in April these may be removed and packed away, and the straw carried away, or removed a short distance and burned. CHAFF HIVES. Messrs. Townley, Butler, Root, and others, prefer chaff hives, which are simply double-walled hives, with the four or five inch chambers filled with chaff. The objection to these I take to be: First, Danger that so limited a space would not answer in severe seasons; Second, That such cumbrous 252 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. hives would be inconvenient to handle in summer; and, Third, A matter of expense. That they would in part supply the place of shade, is, perhaps, in their favor, while Mr. A. I. Root thinks they are not expensive. WINTERING IN CELLAR OR HOUSE. With large apiaries the above method is expensive, and specialists may prefer a cellar or special depository, which I think are quite as safe, though they demand attention ‘and perhaps labor in winter. After my experience in the winter of 1874 and ‘1875, losing all my bees by keeping them ina house with double walls filled in with saw-dust, in which the thermometer indicated a temperature below zero for several weeks, in which time my strongest colonies literally starved to death in the manner already described, I hesitate to recommend a house above ground for Michigan, though with very numerous colonies it might do. Such a house must, if it answer the purpose, keep an equable temperature, at least 3° and not more than 10° above freezing, be perfectly dark, and ventilated with tubes above and below, so arranged as to be closed or opened at pleasure, and not admit a ray of light. A cellar in which we are sure of our ability to control the temperature, needs to be also dry, dark, and quiet, and venti- lated as described above. As already stated, the ventilator to bring air may well be made of tile, and pass through the earth for some feet and then open at the bottom of the cellar. If possible, the ventilator that carries the foul air off should be connected with a stove pipe in a room above, with its lower end reaching to the bottom of the cellar. The College apiary cellar is grouted throughout, which makes it more dry and neat. Of course it should be thoroughly drained. The colonies should be put into the depository when the hives are dry, before cold weather, and should remain till April; though in January and March, if there are days that are warm, they should be taken out and the bees permitted to fly, though not unless they seem uneasy and soil the entrance to their hives. Always when taken out they should be placed on their old stands, so that no bees may be lost. Towards night, when all are quiet, return them to the cellar.. I would not remove bees till towards. MANUAL OF THE APIARY, 253 night, as it is better that they have a good flight, and then become quiet. When moved out it is very desirable to brush away all dead bees whichis an argument in favor of a movable bottom-board. In moving the hives, great care should ‘be exercised not to jarthem. It were better if the bees should not know that they were being moved at all. That the moisture may be absorbed, I cover the bees with a quilt, made of coarse factory cloth, enclosing a layer of cotton batting. Above this I fill in with straw which is packed in so closely that the cover may be removed without the straw falling out. If desirable the straw may be cut— or chaff may be used—and may be confined in a bag made of factory, so that it resembles a pillow. I now use these and like them. This is not. only an excellent absorbent, but ls the heat, and may well remain, till the following une, I have found it advantageous, when preparing my:bees for winter, in October, to contract the chamber by use of a divi- sion board. This is very desirable if wintered out doors, and with frames a foot square is very easily accomplished. By use of eight frames the space (one cubic foot) is very compact, and serves to economize the heat, not only in winter, but in spring. By thus using a division board with only three frames, I have been very successful in wintering nuclei. We have only to guard against low temperature. Perhaps I ought to say that all colonies should be strong in autumn ; but I have said before, never have weak colonies. Yet for fear some have been negligent, I remark that weak colonies should be united in preparing for winter. To do this, approximate the colonies each day four or five feet till they are side by side. Now remove the poorest queen, then smoke thoroughly, sprinkle both colonies with sweetened water scented with essence of peppermint, putting a sufficient number of the best frames and all the bees into one of the hives, and then set this midway between the position of the hives at the commencement of the uniting. The bees will unite peaceably, and make a strong colony. Uniting colonies may pay at other seasons. It may seem rash to some, yet I fully believe that if the above suggestions are carried out in full, I may guarantee successful wintering. But if we do lose our bees— 254 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. with all our hives, combs and honey, we can buy colonies in the spring, with a perfect certainty of making 200 or 300 per cent. on our investment. Even with the worst condition of things, we are still ahead, in way of profit, of most other vocations. BURYING BEES. Another way to winter safely and very economically, is to bury the bees. If this is practiced the ground should either be sandy or ell drained. If we can choose a side-hill it should be done. Beneath the hives and around them, straw should be placed. I should advise leaving the entrance well open, yet secure against mice. The hives should all be placed beneath the surface level of the earth, then form a mound above them sufficient to preserve against extreme warmth or cold. A trench about the mound to carry the water off quickly is desirable. In this arrangement the ground acts as a moderator. Five colonies thus treated the past winter, (1877-8) lost all told less than one-half gill of bees. As this method has not been so long tried, as the others, I would suggest caution. Try it with a few colonies, till you are assured as to the best arrangement, and of its efficacy. I am inclined to think that it is next to a good snow-bank, as a winter repository. SPRING DWINDLING. As already suggested, this is not to be feared if we keep our bees breeding till late autumn. It may be further prevented by forbidding late autumn flights, frequent flights in winter, when the weather is warm, and too early flying in spring. These may all be curtailed orprevented by the pack- ing system as described above, as thus prepared the bees will not feel the warmth, and so will remain quiet in the hive. Nine colonies which I have packed have been remarkably quiet, and are in excellent condition this, February 25th, while two others unpacked have flown day after day, much, I fear, to their injury. I would leave bees in the packing till near May, and in the cellar or ground, till early flowers bloom, that we may secure against too rapid demise of bees in spring. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 255 CHAPTER XVIII THE HOUSE APIARY. DESCRIPTION. This is a double-walled house, which may be rectangular or octagonal in form. The outer wall should be of brick, and made as thin as possible. Inside of this there should be wooden strips two-inches thick, which should receive a layer of paper-sheeting inside, which may be held by nailing strips two-inches wide immediately inside the first mentioned strips. These last strips should receive lath, after which all should be plastered. This may cost more than a purely wooden structure, but it will be more nearly frost-proof than any other kind of wall, and in the end will be the cheapest. There will be two dead air-chambers, each two inches deep, one between the paper and brick, the other between the paper and the plaster. The entire wall will be at least eight inches thick, If desired, it may be made less thick by using one- inch strips, though for our very severe winters the above is none toothick. The doors and windows should be double and should all shut closely against rubber. The outer ones should consist of glass, and should be so hung as to swing out, and in hot weather should be replaced with door, and window- screens, of coarse, painted, wire gauze. A small window just above each colony of bees is quite desirable. Somewhere in the walls there should be a ventilating tube —a brick flue would be very good—which should open into the room just above the floor. Above it might open into the attic, which should be well aired. Ventilators such as are so common on barns might be used. The pipe for admitting air, should, as in the cellar before described, pass through the ground and enter the floor from below. A good cellar, well ventilated and thoroughly dry will be convenient, and should not be neglected. I would have the building but one story, with joists in ceiling above 256 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. eight inches thick. Above these I would sheet with building paper, fastened by nailing strips two inches deep on top, above which I would ceil with matched boards. I should lath and plaster below the joists. The hives, which are to be kept constantly in this house, may rest on two rows of shelves, one at the floor, the other three feet high, and should be ar- ranged for both top and side storing in the small section frames. Indeed, the hive need only consist of the two rab- beted side-boards (Fig. 30, ¢), and a division-board with quilt. The entrances of course pass through the wall. An alighting-board, so hinged as to be let down in summer, but tightly closed over the entrance during very severe winter weather, I should think would. be very desirable. Between the double windows, which it will be remembered shut closely against rubber, sacks of chaff may be placed in winter, if found necessary to keep the proper temperature. With few colonies this might be very necessary. The adjacent entrances should vary in color, so that young queens would not go estray, when they returned from their “marriage flight.” ARE THEY DESIRABLE ? As yet, I think this question cannot be answered. Some who have tried them, among whom are Messrs. Russell and Heddon, of this State, pronounce against them. Perhaps they have faulty houses, perhaps they have had too brief an ex- perience to judge correctly. Others, among whom are Messrs. A. I. Root, Burch, and Nellis, have tried them, and are loud in their favor. I think these first trials are hardly conclusive, as perfection seldom comes in any system with the first expe- rience. That the early use of these houses has met with so much favor, seems to argue that with more experience, and greater perfection, they may become popular. Yet I would urge people to be slow to adopt these costly houses, as enough will do so to thoroughly test the matter ; when, if they prove a desideratum, all can build; whereas, if they prove worth- less, we shall not have to regret money squandered, in the adoption of what was of doubtful value. THE CASE AS IT NOW STANDS. The desirable points as they now appear, are: First. The bees are in condition to winter with no trouble or anxiety. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 257 Second. The bees are handled in the house, and as thiey fly at once to the windows, where they can be suffered to escape, they are very easily and safely handled, even with little or no protection. Third. As we can extract, manipulate honey boxes, ete., right in the same house, it is desirable on the score of convenience. Fourth. As the bees are protected from the sudden rise of the out-door temperature, they will be kept from frequent flights during the cold, forbidding days of fall, winter and spring, and will thus be more secure against spring dwindling. Fifth. As the bees are so independent of out-door heat, because of the thick walls, with intervening alr-spaces, they are found less inclined to swarm. Sixth. We can lock our house, and know that thieves cannot steal. our hard-earned property. The objections to them are: First. The bees leave the hives while being handled, craw! about the house, from which it is difficult to dislodge them, especially the young bees. This objection may disappear with improved houses and prac- tice. Sevond. In very severe winters, like that of 1874 and 1875, they may not offer sufficient protection, yet they would be much safer than chaff hives, as there would be many colo- nies all mutually helping each other to maintain the requisite temperature, and the walls might be even thicker than speci- fied above, without any serious inconvenience. Third. Some think it pleasanter and. more desirable to handle bees out- doors, where all is unconfined. Fourth. The cost of the house ; yet this is only for once in a life-time, and saves pro- viding shade, sawdust, packing-boxes, complex hives, ete. So, we see the question is too complex to be settled except by careful experiment, and this, too, for a series of years. There are so many now in usc in the various States, that the question must soon be settled. I predict that these structures will grow more and more into favor, 258 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. CHAPTER XIX. EVILS THAT CONFRONT THE APIARIST. There are various dangers that are likely to vex the apia- rist, and even to stand in the way of successful apiculture.— Yet, with knowledge, most, if not all of these evils may be wholly vanquished. Among these are: Robbing among the bees, disease, and dey redations from other animals. ROBBING. This is a trouble that often very greatly annoys the inex~ perienced. Bees only rob at such times as the general scarcity of nectar forbids honest gains. When the question comes: Famine or theft, like many another, they are not slow to choose the latter. It is often induced by working with the bees at such times, especially if honey is scattered about or left lying around the apiary. It is especially to be feared in spring, when colonies are apt to be weak in both honey and bees, and thus are unable to protect their own meager stores. The remedies for this evil are not far to seek : ; First. Strong colonies are very rarely molested, and are almost sure to defend themselves against marauders ; hence, it is only the weaklings of the apiarist’s flock that are in danger. Therefore, regard for our motto, “Keep all colo- nies strong,” will secure against harm from this cause. Second. Italians, as before stated, are fully able, and quite as ready, to protect their rights against neighboring tramps. Woe be to the thieving bee that dares to violate the sacred rights of the home of our beautiful Italians. For such temerity is almost sure to cost the intruder its life. But weak colonies, like our nuclei, and those too of black bees, are still easily kept from harm. Usually, the closing of the entrance so that but a single bee can pass through, is MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 259 all sufficient. With the hive we have recommended, this is easily accomplished by simply moving the hive back. Another way to secure such colonies against robbing is to move them into the cellar for a few days. This is a further advantage, as less food is eaten, and the strength of the indi- vidual bees is conserved by the quiet, and as there is no nectar in the fields no loss is suffered. In all the work of the apiary at times of no honey gather- ing, we cannot be too careful to keep all honey from the bees unless placed in the hives. The hives, too, should not be kept open long at a time. Neat, quick work should be the watch-word. During times when robbers are essaying to practice their nefarious designs, the bees are likely to he more than usually irritable, and likely to resent intrusion ; hence the importance of more than usual caution, if it is desired to introduce a queen. DISEASE, The common dysentery—indicated by the bees soiling their hives, as they void their feces within instead of without— which has been so free, of late, to work havoc in our apiaries, is, without doubt, I think, consequent upon wrong manage- ment on the part of the apiarist, as already suggested in Chapter XVII. As the methods to prevent this have already been sufficiently considered, we pass to the terrible FOUL BROOD. This disease, said to have been known to Aristotle—though this is doubtful, as a stench attends common dysentery— though it has occurred in our State as well as in States about us, is not familiar to me, J having never seen but one case, and that on Kelly’s Island, in the summer of 1875, where I found it had reduced the colonies on that Island to two. No bee malady can compare with this in malignancy. By it Dzierzon once lost his whole apiary of 500 colonies.— Mr. E. Rood, first President of the Michigan Association, has lost his bees two or three times by this same terrible plague. The symptoms are as follows: Decline in the prosperity of the colony, because of failure to rear brood. The brood seems to putrefy, becomes “brown and salvy,’and gives off a 260 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. stench, which is by no means agreeable, while later, the caps o concave instead of convex, and have a little hole through them. There is no longer any doubt as to the cause of this fear- ful plague. Like the fell ‘Pebrine,’ which came so near exterminating the “silk worm,’ and a most lucrative and extensive industry in Europe, it, as conclusively shown by Drs. Preusz and Shonfeld, of Germany, is the result of fun- gous or vegetable growth. Shdnfeld not only infected healthy bee larvae, but those of other insects, both by means of the putrescent foul brood, and by taking the spores. Fungoid growths are very minute, and the spores are so infinitesimally small as often to elude the sharp detection of the expert microscopist. Most of the terrible, contagious diseases that human flesh is heir to, like typhus, diphtheria, cholera, small pox, &c., &¢., are now thought to be due to microscopic germs, and hence to be spread from home to home, and from hamlet to hamlet, it is only necessary that the spores, the minute seeds, either by contact or by some sustaining air current, be brought to new soil of flesh blood or other tissue—their garden spot—when they at once spring into growth, and thus lick up the very vitality of their victims. The huge mushroom will growin anight. So too, these other plants—the disease germs—will develop with marvelous rapidity; and hence the horrors of yellow fever, scarlatina, and cholera. , To cure such diseases, the fungi must be killed. To pre- vent their spread, the spores must be destroyed, or else con- fined. But as these are so small, so light, and so invisible— easily borne and wafted by the slightest zephyr of summer, this is often a matter of the utmost difficulty. In “Foul Brood” these germs feed on the larve of the bees, and thus convert life and vigor into death and decay. If we can kill this miniature forest of the hive, and destroy the spores, we shall extirpate the terrible plague. REMEDIES. If we can find a substance that will prove fatal to the fungi, and yet not injure the bees, the problem is solved. Our German scientists—those masters in scientific research MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 261, and discovery, have found this valuable fungicide in salicylic: acid, an extract from the same willows that give us pollen and nectar. This cheap white powder is easily soluble in alcohol, and when mixed with borax in water. Mr. Hilbert, one of the most thoughtful of German bee- keepers, was the first to effect a radical cure of foul brood in his apiary by the use of this substance. He dissolved fifty grains of the acid in five hundred grains of pure spirits. One drop of this in a grain of distilled water is the mixture he applied. Mr. C. F. Muth, from whom the above facts as to Herr Hilbert are gathered, suggests a variation in. the mixture. Mr. Muth suggests an improvement, which takes advantage of the fact that the acid, which alone is very insoluble in water, is, when mixed with borax, soluble. His recipe is as follows: One hundred and twenty-eight grains of” salicylic acid, one hundred and twenty-eight grains of soda borax, and sixteen ounces distilled water. There is no reason: why water without distillation should not do as well. This remedy is applied as follows: First uncap all the brood, then throw the fluid over the comb in a fine spray. This. will not injure the bees, but will prove fatal to the fungi. If the bees are removed to an empty hive, and. given no. comb for three or four days, till they have digested all the honey in their stomachs, and then prevented visiting the affected hive, they are said to be out of danger. It would seem that the spores are in the honey, and by taking that, the contagion is administered to the young bees. The honey may be purified from these noxious germs, by subjecting it to the boiling temperature, which is generally, if not always, fatal to the spores of fungoid life. By immersing the combs in a salicylic acid solution, or sprinkling them with the same, they would be rendered sterile, and could be used without much fear of spreading contagion. The disease is probably spread by robber bees visiting affected hives, and carrying with them in the honey the fatal germs.. sig, wate I have found that a paste made of gum tragacanth and water is very superior, and I much prefer it for either gen- eral or special use to gum Arabic. Yet it soon sours —which means that it is nourishing these fungoid plants— . 262 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. and thus becomes disagreeable. I have found that a very little salicylic acid will render it sterile, and thus preserve it indefinitely. ENEMIES OF BEES. Swift was no mean entomologist, as shown in the follow- ing stanza: “The little fleas that do us tease, Have lesser fleas to bite them, And these again have lesser fleas, And so ad infinitum,” Bees are no exception to this law, as they have to brave the attacks of reptiles, birds, and other insects. In fact, they are beset with perils at home, and perils abroad, perils by night and perils by day. THE BEE MOTH—Galleria Cereana, Fabr. This insect belongs to the family of snout moths, Pyra- lide. This snout is not the tongue, but the palpi, which fact was not known by Mr. Langstroth, who is usually so Fie. 102. accurate, as he essayed to correct Dr. Harris, who stated cor- rectly, that the tongue, the ligula, was “very short and hardly visible.” This family includes the destructive hop MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 263 moth, and the noxious meal and clover moths, and its mem- bers are very readily recognized by their unusually long palpi, the so-called snouts. The eggs of the bee moth are white, globular and very small. ‘These are usually pushed into crevices by the female moth as she extrudes them, which she can easily do by aid of her spy-glass-like ovipositor. They may be laid in the hive, in the crevice underneath it or about the entrance.— Soon these eggs hatch, when the gray, dirty looking cater- pillars, with brown heads, seek the comb on which they feed. To better protect themselves from the bees, they wrap them- selves in a silken tube (Fig. 102) which they have power to spin. They remain in this tunnel of silk during all their growth, enlarging it as they eat. By looking closely, the presence of these larva may be known by this robe of glis- tening silk, as it extends in branching outlines (Fig. 103) along the surface of the comb. A more speedy detection, Fig. 108. even, than the defaced comb, comes from the particles of comb, intermingled with the powder-like droppings of the caterpillars, which will always be seen on the bottom-board in case the moth-larvee are at work. Soon, in three or four weeks, the larvee are full grown (Fig. 104). Now the six 264 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. jointed, and the ten prop-legs—making sixteen in all, the usual number of caterpillars—are plainly visible. These larvae are about an inch long, and show, by their plump appearance, Fie. 104. that they at least, can digest comb. They now spin their cocoons, either in some crevice about the hive, or, if very nu- merous, singly (Fig. 105, «) or in clusters (Fig. 105, 6) on the comb, or even in the drone-cells (Fig. 105, ¢) in which they become pupz, and in two weeks, even less, sometimes, during the extreme heat of summer, the moths again appear. In winter, they may remain as pupx for months. The moths or Fie. 106. millers—sometimes incorrectly called moth-millers—are of an obscure gray color, and thus somimic old boards, that they MANUAL OF TIE APIARY. 265 are very readily passed unobserved by the apiarist. They are about three-fourths of an inch long, and expand (lig. 106) nearly one and one-fourth inches. The females (Fig. 107) are darker than the males (Fig. 107), possess a longer snout, and are usually a little larger. The wings, when the moths are quiet (Fig. 107) are flat on the back for a narrow space, then slope very abruptly. They rest by day, yet, when disturbed, will dart forth with great swiftness, so Réuamur styled them “nimble-footed.” They are active by night, when they essay Fia. 107. Male. Female. to enter the hive and deposit their one or two hundred eggs. If the females are held in the hand they will often extrude their eggs; in fact, they have been known to do this even after the head and thorax were severed from the abdomen, and still more strange, while the latter was being dissected. It is generally stated that these are two-brooded, the first moths occurring in May, the second in August. Yet, as I have seen these moths in every month from May to Septem- ber, and as I have proved by actual observation that they may pass from egg to moth in less than six weeks, I think under favorable conditions there may be even three broods a year. It is true that the varied conditions of temperature—as the moth larvee may grow in a deserted hive, in one’ with few bees, or one crowded with bee life—will have much to do with the rapidity of development. Circumstances may so retard growth and development that there may not be more than two, and possibly, in extreme cases, more than one brood in a season. It is stated by Mr Quinby that a freezing temperature will kill these insects in all stages, while Mr. Betsinger thinks that a deserted hive is safe, neither of which assertions are correct. I have seen hives, whose bees were killed by the 266 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. severe winter, crowded with moth pupz or chrysalids the succeeding summer. I have subjected both larvae and pupe to the freezing temperature without injuring them. I believe, in yery mild winters, the moth and the chrysalids might be so protected as to escape unharmed, even outside the hive. It is probable too, that the insects may pass the winter in any one of the various stages. HISTORY. These moths were known ‘to writers of antiquity, as even Aristotle tells of their injuries. They are wholly of oriental origin, and are often referred to by Huropean writers as a terrible pest. Dr. Kirtland, the able scientist, the first Pres- ident of our American Bee Convention, whose decease we have just had to mourn, once said in a letter to Mr. Lang- stroth, that. the moth was first introduced into America in 1805, though bees had been introduced long before. They first seemed to be very destructive. It is quite probable, as has been suggested, that the bees had to learn to fear and repel them ; for, unquestionably, bees do grow in wisdom.— In fact, may not the whole of instinct be inherited knowl- edge, which once had to be acquired by the animal. Surely bees and other animals learn to battle new enemies, and vary their habits with changed conditions, and they also transmit this knowledge and their acquired habits to their offspring, as illustrated by setter and pointer dogs. In time, may not this account for all those varied actions, usually ascribed to instinct? At least, I believe the bee to be a creature of no small intelligence. REMEDIES. In Europe, late writers give very little space to this moth. Once a serious pest, it has now ceased to alarm, or even dis- quiet the intelligent apiarist. In fact, we may almost call it a blessed evil, as it will destroy the bees ot the heedless, and thus prevent injury to the markets by their unsalable honey, while to the attentive bee-keeper it will work no injury at all. Neglect and ignorance are the moth breeders. As already stated, Italian bees are rarely injured by moths, and strong colonies never. As the enterprising apia- rist will only possess these, itis clear that he is free from MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 267 danger. The intelligent apiarist will also provide, not only against weak, but queenless colonies as well, which from their abject discouragement, are the surest victims to moth inva- sion. Knowing that destruction is sure, they seem, if not to court death, to make no effort to delay it. In working with bees, an occasional web will be seen glistening in the comb, which should be picked out with a knife till the manufacturer—the ruthless larva—is found, when it should be crushed. Any larva seen about the bot- tom board, seeking a place to spin its cocoon, or any pup, either on comb or in crack, should also be killed. If, through carelessness, a colony has become hopelessly victim- ized by these filthy, stinking, wax devourers, then the bees and any combs not attacked should be transferred to another hive, after which the old hive should be sulphured by use of the smoker, as before described (page 216), then by giving one or two each of the remaining combs to strong colonies, after kill- ing any pup that may be on them, they will be cleaned and used, while by giving the enfeebled colony brood, if it has any vigor remaining, and if necessary a good queen, it will soon be rejoicing in strength and prosperity. We have already spoken of caution as to comb honey and frames of comb (page 216), and so need not speak further of them. BEE KILLER—Asilus Jissouriensis, Riley. This is a two-winged fly, of the predacious family Asilida, which attacks, and takes captive the bee and then feeds upon its fluids. It is confined to the southern part of our country. The fly (Fig. 108) has a lcng, pointed abdomen, strong wings, and is very powerful. I have seen an allied species attack and overcome the powerful tiger-beetle, whereupon I took them both with my net, and now have them pinned, as they were captured, in our College cabinet. These flies de- light in the warm sunshine, are very quick on the wing, and are thus not easily captured. It is to be hoped that they will not become very numerous. If they should, I hardly know how they could be kept from their evil work. Fright- ening them, or catching with a net might be tried, yet these methods would irritate the bees, and need to be tried before 268 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. they are recommended. I have received specimens of this fly from nearly every Southern State. There are very similar flies North, belonging to the same genus, but as yet we have Fie. 108. no account of their attacking bees, though such a habit might easily be acquired, and attacks here would not be surprising. A fly very similar to the above in appearance, and possessed of the same evil habits, is the Nebraska bee-killer— Promachus bastardi, Loew. Brz-Lousse—Branla Ceca, Nitsch. This louse (Fig. 109) is a wingless Dipteron, and one of the uniques among insects. It is a blind, spider-like parasite, b Fie. 109. Imago. Larva. and serves as a very good connecting link between insects. and spiders, or, still better, between the Diptera, where it belongs, and the Hemiptera, which contains the bugs and MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 269 most of the lice. It assumes the semi-pupa state almost as soon as hatched, and strangest of all, is, considering the size of the bee on which it lives, and from which it sucks its nour- ishment, enormously large. Two or three, and sometimes even more, (the new Encyclopedia Britanica says 50 or 100), are often foundon asingle bee. When we consider their great size we cannot wonder that they very soon, devitalize the bees. _ These, as yet, have done little damage, except in the south of Continental Europe. The fact that they have not become naturalized in the northern part of the Continent, England or America, would go to show that there is something inimi- eal to their welfare in our climate, especially as they are constantly being introduced, coming as hangers-on to our im- ported bees. Within a year I have received them from no less than three sources—twice from New York and once from Pennsylvania—each time taken from bees just received from Italy. The only way that I could suggest to rid bees of them would be to make the entrance to the hive small, so that as the bees enter, they would be scraped off. IMPORTANT SUGGESTION. Tn view of the serious nature of this pest and the difficulty in the way of its extinction, I would urge importers, and people receiving imported queens, to be very careful to see that these lice, which, from their size, are so easily discovered, are surely removed before any queen harboring them is intro- duced. This advice is especially important, in view of the similarity in climate of our own beautiful South, to the sunny slopes of France and Italy. Very likely the lice could not flourish in our Southern States,. but there would be great cause to fear the results of its introduction into our Hldo- rado, the genial States of the West. In California, they might be even worse than the drouth, as they might come as @ permanent, not a temporary evil. BEE HAWK—Libellula. This large, fine lace wing is a neuropterous insect. It works in the Southern States and is called Mosquito-hawk.— 270 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. Insects of the same genus are called dragon flies, devil’s darning-necdles, &. These are exceedingly predacious. In fact, the whole sub-order is insectivorous. From its four netted, veined wings, we can tell it at once from the asilus before mentioned, which has but two wings. The Bee or Mosquito-hawk is resplendent with metallic green, while the Bee Killer is of sober gray. The Mosquito Hawk is not inaptly named, as it not only preys on other insects, swoop- ing down upon them with the dexterity of a hawk, but its graceful gyrations, as it sports in the warm sunshine at noon- day, are not unlike those of our graceful hawks and falcons. These insects are found most abundant near water, as they lay their eggs in water, where the larvee live and fved upon other animals. The larve are peculiar in breathing by gills in their rectum. The same water that bathes these organs and furnishes oxygen, is sent out in a jet, and thus sends the insect darting along. The larve also possess enormous jaws, which formidable weapons are masked till it is desired to use them, when the dipper-shaped mask is dropped or unhinged and the terrible jaws open and close upon the unsuspecting victim, which has but a brief time to bewail its temerity. A writer from Georgia, in Gleanings, volume 6, page 35, states that these destroyers are easily scared away, or brought down by boys with whips, who soon become as expert in capturing the insects, as are the latter in seizing the bees. The insects are very wild and wary, and I should suppose this method would be very efficient. TACHINA FLY. From descriptions which I have received, I feel certain that there isa two-winged fly, probably of the genus Tachina MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 271. (Fig. 110), that works on bees. I have never seen these, though I have repeatedly. requested those who have, to send them to me. My friend, Mr. J. L. Davis, put some sick looking bees into a cage, and hatched the flies which he told me looked not unlike a small house fly. It is the habit of these flies, which belong to the same family as our house flies, which they much resemble, to lay their eggs on other insects. Their young, upon hatching, burrow into the insect that is being victimized, and grow by eating it. It would be difficult to cope with this evil, should it become of great. magnitude. We may well hope that this habit of eating bees is an exceptional one with it. SPIDERS. These sometimes spread their nets so as to capture bees. If porticoes—which are, I think, worse than a useless ex- ” pense—are omitted, there will very seldom be any cause for complaints against the spiders, which on the whole are friends. As the bee-keeper who would permit spiders to worry his bees would not read books, I will discuss this subject no further. : ANTS. These cluster about the hives in spring for warmth, and seldom, if ever, I think, do any harm. Should the apiarist. feel nervous, he can very readily brush them away, or destroy them by use of any of the fly poisons which are kept in the markets. As these poisons are made attyactive by adding sweets, we must be careful to preclude the bees from gaining access to them. As we should use them in spring, and as we then need to keep the quilt or honey-board close above the bees, and as the ants cluster above the brood chamber, it is not difficult to practice poisoning. One year I tried Paris green with perfect success. ‘ ‘ WASPS. I have never seen bees injured by wasps. In the South, as in Europe, we hear of such depredations. I have received wasps, sent by our southern brothers, which .were caught destroying bees. The wasps are very predacious, and do 272 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. immense benefit by capturing and eating our insect pests. - I have seen wasps carry off “currant-worms”’ with a celerity that was most refreshing. As the solitary wasps are too few in numbers to do much damage—even if they ever do any—any great damage which may occur would doubtless come from the social paper- makers. In this case, we have only to find the nests and apply the torch, or hold the muzzle of a shot-gun to the nest and shoot. This should be done at nightfall when the wasps have all gathered home. Let us not forget that the wasps do much good, and so not practice wholesale slaughter unless we have strong evidence against them. THE KING BIRD—TZyrannus Carolinensis. This bird, often called the bee-martin, is one of the fly- catchers, a very valuable family of birds, as they are wholly insectivorous, and do immense good by destroying our insect pests. The king bird is the only one of them in the United States that deserves censure. Another, the chimney swal- low of Europe, has the sameevil habit. Our chimney swallow has no evil ways. I am sure, from personal observation, that these birds capture and eat the workers, as well as drones ; and I dare say, they would pay no more respect to the finest Italian Queen. Yet, in view of the good that these birds do, unless they are far more numerous and troublesome than I have ever observed them to be, I should certainly be slow to recommend the death warrant. THE TOADS. The same may be said of the toads, which may often be seen sitting demurcly at the entrance of the hives, and lap- ping up the full-laden bees with the lightning-like movement of their tongues, in a manner which can but be regarded with interest, even by him who suffers loss. Mr. Moon, the well known apiarist, made this an objection to low hives ; yet, the advantage of such hives far more than compensates, and with a bottom-board, such as described in the chapter on hives, we shall find that the toads do very little damage. MICE. These little pests are a consummate nuisance about the MANUAL OF TIIE APIARY. 273 apiary. They enter the hives in winter, mutilate the comb, irritate, perhaps destroy, the bees, and create a very offensive stench. ‘They often greatly injure comb which is outside the hive, destroy smokers, by eating the leather off the bellows, and if they get at the seeds of honey plants, they never re- treat till they make a complete work of destruction. In the house and cellar, these plagues should be, by use of cat or trap, completely exterminated. If we winter on the summer stands, the entrance should be so contracted that mice cannot enter the hive. In case of packing as I have recom- mended, I should prefer a more ample opening, which may be safely secured by taking a piece of wire cloth or perforated tin, and tacking it over the entrance, letting it come within one-fourth of an inch of the bottom-board. This will give more air, and still preclude the entrance of these miserable vermin. (See Appendix, page 293). 274 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. CHAPTER XxX. CALENDAR AND AXIOMS. WORK FOR DIFFERENT MONTHS.* Though every live apiarist will take one, at least, of the three excellent journals relating to this art, printed in our country, in which the necessary work of each month will be detailed, yet it may be well to give some brief hints in this place. JANUARY. During this month the bees will need little attention. — Should the bees in the cellar or depository become uneasy, which will not happen if the requisite precautions are taken, and there come a warm day, it were well to set them on their summer stands, that they may enjoy a purifying flight. At night when all are again quiet return them to the cellar.— While out I would clean the bottom-boards, especially if there are many dead bees. This is the time, too, to read, visit, study and plan for the ensuing season’s work. FEBRUARY. No advice is necessary further than that given for Janu- ary, though if the bees have a good fly in January, they will scarcely need attention in this month. The presence of snow on the ground need not deter the apiarist from giving his bees a flight, providing the day is warm and still. It is better to let them alone if they are quiet. MARCH. Bees should still be kept housed, and those outside still retain about them the packing of straw, shavings, &c. Frequent flights do no good, and wear out the bees. Colonies that are uneasy, and besmear their hives should be set out, and allowed a good flight and then returned. *These dates are arranged for the Northern States, where the fruit trees blossom about the first of May. By noting these flowers, the dates can be easily changed to suit any locality MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 275 The colony or colonies from which we desire to rear queens and drones should now be fed, to stimulate breeding. By careful pruning, too, we may and should prevent the rearing of drones in any but the best colonies. If from lack of care the previous autumn, any of our stocks are short of stores, now is when it will be felt. In such cases feed either honey, sugar, syrup, or place candy on top of the frames beneath the quilt. APRIL. Early in this month the bees may all be set out. It will be best to feed all, and give all access to flour, when they will work at it, though usually they can get pollen as soon as they can fly out to advantage. Keep the brood chamber contracted so that the frames will all be covered, and cover well above the bees to economize heat. MAY. Prepare nuclei to start extra queens. Feed sparingly till bloom appears. Give room for storing. Extract if neces- sary, and keep close watch, that you may anticipate and forestall any attempt to swarm. Now, too, is the best time to transfer. JUNE. Keep all colonies supplied with vigorous, prolific queens. Divide the colonies, as may be desired, especially enough to prevent attempts at swarming. Extract if necessary or best ; adjust frames or sections, if comb honey is desired, and be sure to keep all the white clover honey, in whatever form taken, separate from all other. Now is the best time to Italianize. : = JULY. The work this month is about the same as that of June.— Supersede all poor and feeble queens. Keep the basswood honey by itself, and remove boxes or frames as soon as full. Be sure that queens and workers have plenty of room to do their best, and suffer not the hot sun to strike the hives. AUGUST. Do not fail to supersede impotent queens. Between bass- " 276 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. wood and fall bloom it may pay to feed sparingly. Give plenty of room for queen and workers as fall storing com- mences. SEPTEMBER. Remove all surplus boxes and frames as soon as storing ceases, which usually occurs about the middle of this month ; feed sparingly till the first of October. If robbing occurs, contract the entrance of the hive robbed. If it is desired to feed honey or sugar for winter, it should be done the last of this month. OCTOBER. Prepare colonies for winter. See that all have at least thirty pounds, by weight, of good, capped honey, and that all are strong in bees. Contract the chamber, by using division board, and cover well with the quilt. Be sure that one or two central frames of comb contain many empty cells, and that all have a central hole through which the bees can pass. NOVEMBER. Before the cold days come, remove the bees to the cellar or depository, or pack about those left out on the summer stands. DECEMBER. Now is the time to make hives, honey-boxes, &c., for the coming year. Also labels for hives. These may just con- tain the name of the colony, in which case the full'record will be kept in a book; or the label may be made to contain a full register as to time of formation, age of queen, &c., &e. Slates are also used for the same purpose. I know from experience that any who heed all of thé above may succeed in bee-keeping,—may win a double success :— Receive pleasure and make money. I feel sure that many experienced apiarists will find advice that it may pay to follow. It is probable that errors abound, and certain that much remains unsaid, for of all apiarists it is true that what they do not know is greatly in excess of what they do know. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 27T AXIOMS. The following axioms, given by Mr. Langstroth, are just as. true to-day as they were when written by that noted author: There are a few first principles in bee-keeping which ought to be as familiar to the Apiarist as the letters of the alphabet. First. Bees gorged with honey never volunteer an attack. Second. Bees may always be made peaceable by inducing them to accept of liquid sweets. ; Third. Bees, when frightened by smoke or by drumming on their hives, fill themselves with honcy and lose all dispo- sition to sting, unless they are hurt. Fourth. Bees dislike any guwick movements about their hives, especially any motion which jars their combs. Fifth. In districts where forage is abundant only for a short period, the largest yield of honey will be secured by a very moderate increase of stocks. Sixth. A moderate increase of colonies in any one season, will, in the long run, prove to be the easiest, safest, and cheapest mode of managing bees. Seventh. Queenless colonies, unless supplied with a queen, will inevitably dwindle away, or be destroyed by the bee- moth, or by robber-bees. Eighth. The formation of new colonies should ordinarily be confined to the season when bees are accumulating honey; and if this, or any other operation, must be per- formed when forage is scarce, the greatest precautions should be used to prevent robbing. “ The essence of all profitable bee-keeping is contained in Oettl’s Golden Rule: KEEP YOUR sTocks sTRONG. If you cannot succeed in doing this, the more money you invest in bees, the heavier will be your losses ; while, if your stocks are strong, you will show that you are a dee-master, as well as a bee-keeper, and may safely calculate on generous returns. from your industrious subjects. “ Keep ail colonies strong.” APPHN DIX HISTORY OF MOVABLE FRAMES. Movable frames have revolutionized bee-keeping, and so out-rank the reaper and mower, and equal the cotton-gin. Few inventions have exerted so powerful an influence upon the art which they serve. Their history will ever be a sub- ject of exceeding interest to bee-keepers, and their inventor worthy the highest regard as the greatest benefactor of our art. In writing their history, I have no personal interest or bias, and am only impelled by a love of truth and justice. I am the more eager to write this history, as some of our apiarists, and they among the best informed and most influ- ential (American Bee Journal, vol. 14, p. 380), are misin- formed in the premises. In obtaining the data for this account, I am under many obligations to our great American master in apiculture, Rev. L. L. Langstroth, whose thorough knowledge and extensive library have been wholly at my command. We are informed by George Wheeler, in his ‘Journey into Greece,” published in 1682, page 411, that the Greeks had ‘partial control of the combs. “The tops’ of the willow hives “are covered with broad flat sticks. Along each of these sticks the bees fasten their combs ; so that a comb may be taken out whole.” Swammerdam had no control of the comb, nor had Réau- mur. ‘The latter used narrow hives, which contained but two combs ; but these were stationary. Huber was the first to construct a hive which gave him control of the combs and access to the interior of the hive. In August, 1879, Huber wrote to Bonnet as follows : ‘‘I took several small fir boxes, a foot square and fifteen lines wide, and joined them together by hinges, so that they could be opened and shut like the leaves of a book. When using a hive of this description, we took care to fix a comb in cach frame, and then introduced all the bees.” —(Edinburgh edition of Huber, p. 4). Although MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 279 Morlot and others attempted to improve this hive, it never gained favor with practical apiarists. The first person to adjust frames in a case appeurs to have been Mr. W. Augustus Munn, of England. I have in my possession a letter from Mr. Munn, dated November 9th, 1863, in which he states that the hive “had been in use since 1834.” The first printed description of any of his hives ap- peared in the “ Gardener's Chronicle” for 1843. This article was written by a lady, and signed “E. M. W.” Its premature publication made it impossible for Mr. Munn to secure a Fie. 111. patent in Great Britain. In 1843 he secured a patent in France. The hive patented is fully described in his “ De- scription of the Bar and Frame Hive,” published in London, in 1844. There is also a figure (Fig.111). I copy from the work which is before me, pp. 7 and 8: “ An oblong box is formed, about thirty inches long, sixteen inches high, and twelve inches broad. One of the long sides is constructed to open with hinges, and to hang ona level with the bottom. As many grooves half an inch broad, half an inch deep, and 280 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. about 94 inches long, are formed 14 inches apart on the inside. of the bottom of the box, as its length will admit. At the top are corresponding grooves to those made in the bottom of the box. The bee-frames are made of half inch mahogany, being 12 inches high, 9 inches long, and not more than half an inch broad, sliding into the fifteen grooves formed on the bottom, and kept securely in their places by the upper grooves,” and by propolis, the author might well have added. American apiarists need not be told that such a hive would be wholly impracticable. Without bees in it, the changes of weather Fig. 112. would make the sliding of the frames very difficult ; with the bees inside, the removal of the frames would be practically impossible. In 1851 Mr. Munn issued a second edition of his book, in the preface of which I find the following: “ Having materially simplified the bar-frame hive, by forming the ‘oblong bar- frames’ into ‘ triangular frames,’ and making them lift out of the top, instead of the back of the bee-box, I have repub- lished the pamphlet.” The triangular hive (Fig. 112) is described and figured, and is the same as found illustrated in MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 281 Munn’s “ Bevan on the Honey Bee.” This hive, although a possible improvement on the other, is costly, intricate, and still very impracticable. In the price-list of J. Pettitt, Dover, England, 1864, I find this hive priced at £3 3s., or about $15.00. From the figure we learn that there were some wide spaces about the frames. These would of course be filled with comb, and render the hives entirely unsuitable for com- mon use. That this hive lacked the essential requisites to success is evident from words penned by the inventor in 1863: “The hive matters little if the pasturage is good.” And it is easy to see from the complex arrangement of the frames, and the wide spaces about them, that as Mr. Munn said, referring to his hive, ‘‘ When left to themselves the bees shut up the shop.” Had invention stopped with Major Munn’s hive, we should to-day be using the old box hive, and sighing in vain for a better. Neighbour well says (3d edition, p. 129): “ Probably the reason of the invention’s failure was the expensiveness of the Major’s fittings, which make the hive appear more like some astronomical instrument, than a box for bees. Be this as it may, there was no such thing as a frame hive in use in England till 1860.” It would seem strange, that after going so far Major Munn should have failed to give bee-keepers a hive of value. Yet with his view that smoke injured the bees and brood (2d edi- tion, p. 21), we can readily see, that with his hive and black bees, 2 man would need the skin of a rhinoceros, and nerves of brass, to do much by way of actual manipulation for prac- tical purposes. It has been truly said that “ The Huber hive can be used with far greater ease and safety, by a novice, than can Munn’s.” It will be seen by reference to “ Bee Culture with Movable Frames,” published by Pastor George Kleine, Hanover, Ger- many, in 1853, p. 5, that a druggist by the name of Schmidt, in a work which he published in Freiburg, in 1851, entitled, “The New Bee Homes,” describes a hive with the Huber leaves having prolonged tops which hung on rabbets, much as do our frames. These Huber leaves were close-fitting, and so not practical. Kleine regarded this as inferior to the Huber hive, in that the combs must be taken out from above. With a side opening he thinks it would be a material improve- 282 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. ment. Itisevident from Kleine’s work, that he knew nothing either of Munn or his hive. In 1847, Jacob Shaw, Jr., then of Hinckley, Ohio, pub- lished in the Scientific American, March 5th, 1847, p. 187, the description of a hive devised by him. A person who has seen the hive tells me that as described and first used, this hive had close-fitting frames, which rested in a double-walled tin box. By turning hot water into the chamber, the frames would be loosened. We do not wonder that, as Mr. Shaw deposed, he only made one hive, and that he could only per- suade one colony of the several which he tried, to accept the situation, and that this one soon perished. He got no surplus, and wisely set the hive aside. In 1847, the well known agricultural writer, Solon Robin- son, suggested in an article published in the Albany Cultiva- tor, a tin hive made up of unicomb apartments which should set close side by side, and be connected by inter-communica- ting holes. Of course, such a hive would only succeed in the imagination. M. Debeauvoys published, in 1847, the 2d edition of “Guide de l’Apiculteur,’ at Angers, France, in which he described a movable comb hive, to meet the practical wants of French bee-keepers. This hive was not only no improve- ment on that of Huber, but even less easy of manipulation. The top-bar and uprights of the frames were close-fitting to the top and sides of the hive. Says M. Hamet, editor of the French bee paper, in his work, “Cours Pratique.D’ Apicul- ture,” 1859 edition: “The removal of the frames is more difficult than from the Huber hive, and it has never been accepted by the practical bee-keepers of France.” Mr. Chas. Dadant describes this hive, which he once made and used, in the American Bee Journal, vol. 7,p. 197. He says of it: “The hive worked well when new and empty; but after the bees had glued the frames, it was difficult to remove them without breaking the combs. It would have been entirely impos- sible to remove them at all, without separating the ends of the hive from the frames with a chisel. This hive, which had gained 2,500 proselytes in France, was very soon aban- doned by all, and the disciples of Debeauvoys returned to the old-fashioned straw hive.” ‘ He adds, further, that these MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 283 hives were disastrous to French bee culture. Once misled by movable frames, they ever afterwards refused them even for trial. Of course Mr. §. S. Fisher, once commissioner of patents, and an expert, could see nothing in this hive, or any of the inventor’s modifications of it, to invalidate the Lang- stroth patent. How grateful all American apiarists should be, that Mr. Langstroth’s invention was of a different type. As already stated, bars were used centuries ago in Greece. Della Rocca, in a work published in 1790, also’ describes bars as used by him. Schirach used slats across the top of a box with rear-opening doors, as early as 1771. In Key’s work, “Ancient Bee Master’s Farewell,” London, 1796, p. 42, such hives are described, and beautifully illustrated, plate 1, figs. 2 and 3. Bevan, London, 1838, describes on p. 82 a similar hive, with the bars set in rabbets, which is figured on p. 83. In 1835, Dzierzon, who has been to Germany what Lang- stroth has to America, commenced bee-culture. Three years later he adopted the bar hive, and although these bar hives were previously of little value to practical apiculture, in his hands they became a most valuable instrument. To remove the combs, the great German master had to cut them loose from the sides of the hives. Yet from his great skill in handling them, his studious habits, and invaluable researches, which gave to the world the knowledge of parthenogenesis among bees, his hive and system marked a new era in German apiculture. In 1851, our own Langstroth, without any knowledge of what foreign apiarian inventors had done, save what he could find in Huber, and edition 1838 of Bevan, invented the hive now in common use among the advanced apiarists of America. | It is this hive, the greatest apiarian invention ever made, that has placed American apiculture in advance of that of all other countries. What practical bee-keeper of America could say with H. Hamet, edition 1861, p. 166, that the im- proved hives were without value except to the amateur, and inferior for practical purposes? Our apiarists not native to our shores, like the late Adam Grimm and Mr..Chas. Dadant, always conceded that Mr. Langstroth was the inventor of this hive, and always proclaimed its usefulness. Well did the late Mr. 8. Wagner, the honest, fearless, scholarly and truth- - 284 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. loving editor of the early volumes of the American Bee Jour- nal, himself of German origin, say: ‘‘ When Mr. Langstroth took up this subject, he well knew what Huber had done, and saw wherein he had failed—failing, possibly, only because he aimed at nothing more than constructing an observing hive, suitable for his purposes. Mr. Langstroth’s object was other and higher. He aimed at making frames movable, inter- changeable, and practically serviceable in bee culture.” And how true what follows: ‘Nobody before Mr. Langstroth ever succeeded in devising a mode of makingand using a movable frame that was of any practical value in bee culture.” No man in the world, beside Mr. Langstroth, was so conversant with this whole subject as was Mr. Wagner. His extensive: library and thorough knowledge made him a competent judge. Now that the invention is public property, men will cease to: falsify and even perjure themselves, to rob an old man, whose: words, writings, and whole life, shine with untarnished ingenuousness. And very soon all will unite with the great. majority of intelligent American apiarists of to-day, in ren- dering to this benefactor of our art, the credit; though he has been hopelessly deprived of the pecuniary benefits of his. great invention. Mr. Langstroth, though he knew of no previous invention: of frames contained in a case, when he made his invention, in 1851, does not profess to have been the first to have invented them. Every page of his book shows his transparent honesty, and desire to give all due credit to other writers and inventors. He does claim, and very justly, to have invented the first practical frame hive, the one described in his patent, = pplies for in January, 1851, and in all three editions of his. ook. While the name of the late Baron Von Berlepsch will always stand in the front rank of apiarists, he never gave the world any description of a movable frame hive, until Mr. Langstroth had applied for a patent, and not until the Lang- stroth hive was largely in use. It has been claimed that Mr. Andrew Harbison invented and used in his father’s apiary, previous to 1851, the Lang- stroth hive. In the Dollar Newspaper for January 21,1857, a brother, Mr. W. C. Harbison, who also lived with his father MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 285 at the time the invention is said to have been made, says: «T will venture the prediction that both Quinby’s hive and mine will ere long be cast aside, to give place to a hive con- ‘structed in such a manner that the apiarian can have access to every part:of the hive at pleasure, without injury to the colony. In this particular both Mr. Quinby and myself have signally failed. The invention of such a hive was reserved for Mr. Langstroth.” It is significant that J. S. Harbison, another brother, who was also with his father at the time, in ‘his “ Bee Culture,” San Francisco, 1861, speaks of the Lang- stroth hive, p. 149, but not of that of his brother. It has also been claimed that W. A. Flanders, Martin Metcalf, and Edward Townley, each invented this hive prior to Mr. Langstroth’s invention. Yet, each of these gentlemen wrote a book, in which no mention is made of suchan invention. Well might Mr. Langstroth say, “I can well understand what Job meant when he said, ‘O ! that my enemy had written a book.’”’ It is also stated that Mr. A. F. Moon was a prior inventor of this hive. Mr. Moon’s own testimony, that he not only abandoned his invention, being unable to secure straight ‘combs, but even forgot all ubout zt, till it was discovered in an old rubbish pile, shows that he did nothing that would, in court, overthrow Mr. Langstroth’s claims, or that in the least conferred any benefit upon bee-keepers. Mr. Maxwell, of Mansfield, Ohio, was another who is said to have anticipated Mr. Langstroth. Yet Mr. Maxwell's own son swears that he helped his father make all his hives, and that his father never used a movable frame till after 1851. Solon Robinson thought his brother, Dr. Robinson, of Jamaica Plains, near Boston, made and used movable frame hives prior to 1852. The wife of Dr. Robinson testified that her husband bought a right to use the Langstroth hive, and with it made his first movable frames. Every claim, both at home and abroad, to the invention of a practical movable frame hive, prior to that of Mr. Lang- - stroth, when examined, is found to have no substantial foua- dation. All previous hives were plainly inferior to the improved Huber hive as described in Bevan, p. 106. Itisa sad blot upon American apiculture, that he who raised it to the proud height which it occupies to-day, should have been 286 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. shamefully defrauded of the just reward for his great inven- tion. But it gives me the greatest pleasure to state, that by no possible word could I gather that Mr. Langstroth feels any bitterness towards those who seem wilfully to have stolen his invention, while with a mantle of charity, great as is his noble heart, he covers the thousands who either thought he had no valid claim, or else that the purchase of a right from others, entitled them to hisinvention. Asan inventor and writer on apiculture, Mr. Langstroth will ever be held in grateful memory. How earnestly will American apiarists desire that he may be spared to us until he completes his autobiography, that we may learn how he arrived at his great discovery, and may study the methods by which he gleaned so many rich and valuable truths. LECANIUM TULIPIFERA—Coox. In the summer of 1870, this louse, which, so far as I know, has never yet been described, and for which I propose: the above very appropriate name, tulipiferee—the Lecanium of the tulip tree—was very common on the tulip trees about the College lawns. So destructive were they that some of the trees were killed outright, others were much injured, and had not the lice for some unknown reason ceased to thrive, we should soon have missed from our grounds one of our most attractive trees. Since the date above given, I have received these insects, through the several editors of our excellent bee papers, from many of the States, especially those bordering the Ohio River. In Tennessee they seem very common, as they are often noticed in abundance on the fine stately tulip trees of that goodly State—in the South this tulip tree is called the poplar, which is very incorrect, as it is in no way related to the latter. The poplar belongs to the willow family; the tulip to the magnolia, which families are wide apart. In Pennsylvania the louse has been noticed on the cucumber tree—Magnolia acuminata. Wherever the tulip-tree lice have been observed sucking the sap and vitality from the trees, there the bees have also. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 287 been seen, lapping up a sweet juicy exudation, which is secreted by the lice. In 1870 I observed that our tulip trees were alive with bees and wasps, even as late as August, though the trees are in blossom only in June. Examination showed that the exuding sweets from these lice were what attracted the bees. This was observed with some anxiety, as the secretion gives off a very nauseating odor. The oozing secretions from this and other lice, not only of the bark-louse family (Coccide), but of the plant-louse family (Aphidze), are often referred to as honey-dew. Would it not be better to speak of these as insect secretions, and reserve the name honey-dew for sweet secretions from plants, other than those which come from the flowers ? NATURAL HISTORY OF THE LECANIUM TULIPIFERA, The fully developed insect, like all bark lice, is in the form of a scale (Fig. 113, 1), closely applied to the limb or twig . on which it works. This insect, like most of its genus, is brown, very convex above, (Fig. 113, 1), and concave beneath, (Fig. 113, 2). On the under side is a cotton-like secretion, which serves to enfold the eggs. Underneath the species in question are two transverse parallel lines of this white down, (Fig. 113, 2). One of them, probably the anterior, is nearly marginal, and is interrupted in the middle; while the other ig nearly central, and in place of the interruption at the middle, it has a V-shaped projection back or away from the other line. The form of the scale is quadrangular, and not unlike that of a turtle, (Fig. 113,-1). When fully developed it is a little more than 3-16 of an inch long, and a little more than 2 as wide. Here at Lansing, the small, yellow, oval eggs appear late in August. In Tennessee they would be found under the scales in their cotton wrappings many days earlier. The eggs are 1-40 of an inch long, and 1-65 of an inch wide. These eggs, which are very numerous, hatch in the locality of their development, and the young or larval lice, quite in contrast with their dried, inert, motionless parents, are spry and active. They are oval, (Figs. 113, 8 and 4), yellow; and 1-23 of an inch long, and 1-40 of an inch wide. The eyes, antenne (Fig. 113, 5), and legs, (Fig. 113, 6), are plainly 288 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. visible when magnified 30 or 40 diameters. The 9-jointed abdomen is deeply emarginate, or cut into posteriorly, (Fig. 113, 3), and on each side of this slit is a projecting stylet or hair, (Figs. 113, 3 and 4), while from between the eyes, on the under side of the head, extends the long recurved beak, (Fig. 113, 4). The larvee soon leave the scales, crawl about the tree, and finally fasten by inserting their long slender beaks, when they so pump up the sap that they grow with surprising rapidity. In a few weeks their legs and antennee seem to disappear as they become relatively so small, and Fig. 118. 2 3 the scale-like form is assumed. In the following summer the scale is full-formed and the eggs are developed. Soon the scale, which is but the carcass of the once active louse, drops from the tree, and the work of destruction is left to the young lice, a responsibility which they seem quite ready to assume. In my observations I have detected no males. Judging from others of the bark-lice, these must possess wings, and MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 289 -will never assume the scale form, though Prof. P. R. Uhler writes’ me that the males of some bark lice are apterous. REMEDIES. If valued shade or honey trees are attacked by these ‘insatiate destroyers, they could probably be saved by discreet pruning—cutting off the affected branches before serious injury was done, or by syringing the trees with a solution of whale oil, soap—or even common soft soap would do—just as the young lice are leaving the scales. It would be still better to have the solution hot. Whitman’s Fountain Pump is admirable for making such applications. Fig. lis slightly magnified ; the others are largely magnified. MOTHERWORT AS A HONEY PLANT. (Leonurus cardiaca L.) Perhaps ‘none of our common herbs promises better, as a honey plant, than the one in question. It is a very hardy Fie. 114. perennial, and once introduced in waste places, it is sure to hold its own, until it becomes desirable to extirpate it, when, 290 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. at man’s bidding, it quickly lets go its hold, so that it is not a dangerous plant to introduce. The blossoms appear at this place about June 25th, and persist for a full month, and during the entire time are crowded with bees, whatever may be the character of the weather, whether wet or dry, warm or cool, whether the plant is in the midst of honey plants or isolated. We are thus assured that the plant is constantly secreting nectar, and is also a favorite with bees. Rape, mustards and borage scem indifferent to the weather, but are not favorites with the bees. Motherwort, then, has three admirable qualities: It is long in bloom, the flowers afford fine honey at all times, and it isa favorite with the bees. Fie. 115. If it could be made to bloom about three weeks later, coming in just after basswood, it would have nearly all the desired qualities. I think that we might bring this about by mowing the plants in May. J am led to this opinion from the fact that some plants which we set back by transplanting in May, are still in bloom this August 10th, and are now alive with bees, dividing their attention with the beautiful cleome, which. is now in full bloom, and fairly noisy with bees. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 291 DESCRIPTION OF THE PLANT. The stalk is square (Fig. 114), branching, and when culti- vated, attains a height of some four feet ; though, as it grows in waste places, it is seldom more than three feet. The branches, and also the leaves, are opposite (Figs. 114 and 115), and in the axiles of the latter are whorls of blossoms (Figs. 115 and 116), which succeed each other from below to the top of the branching stems. The corolla is like that of all the mints, while the calyx has five teeth, which are sharp and Fie. 116. spine-like in the nutlets as they appear at the base of the leaves (Fig. 115). As they near the top, the whorls of blos- soms and succeeding seeds are successively nearer together, and finally become very crowded at the apex (Fig. 116). The leaves are long and palmately lobed (Fig. 115). The small blossom is purple. 292 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. THE SOUR-WOOD TREE. The sorrel tree (Oxydendrum arboreum) (Fig. 117), so called because of the acidity of the leaves, is a native of the South, but has been grown even as far north as New York. Fie. 117. lt often attains no mean dimensions in its native home along the Alleghanies, often reaching upward more than fifty feet, and acquiring a diameter of twelve or fifteen inches. — The flowers are arranged in racemes, are more drooping than represented in the figure, are white, and with the beau- tiful foliage make an ornamental tree of high rank. The bark is rough, and the wood so soft as to be worthless, either as fuel or for use in the arts. Asa honey tree, it is very highly esteemed ; in fact, it is the linden of the South. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 293 THE JAPAN MEDLAR. Thave received from J. M. Putnam, of New Orleans, La., flowers of the Mespilus Japonica, or Japan plum. He states that it bears a most delicious fruit, blooms from August till January, unless cut off by a severe frost, and is proof against ordinary frosts. He statcs that it furnishes abundance of delicious honey, and that, too, when his bees were gathering from no other source. The Mespilus Germanica grows in England, and is much praised for its fruit. From Mr. Putnam’s account, the Japonica is unprecedented in its length of bloom. We thing two months a longtime. We pay high tribute to mignonette, cleome and borage, when we tell of four months of bloom ;, but this is mild praise when compared with this Japan plum, which flowers from August first till January. The flowers are in a dense panicle, and were still fragrant after their long journey. The leaf is lanceolate, and very thick, some like the wax plant. I should say it was an ever- green. The apiarists of the South are to be congratulated on this valuable acquisition to their bee forage. I hope it. will thrive North as well as South. THE STINGING-BUG.—Phymata Hrosa, Fasr. This insect is very widely distributed throughout the Uni- ted States. I have received it from Maryland to Missouri on the South, and from Michigan to Minnesota on the North. The insect will lie concealed among the flowers, and upon occasion will grasp a bee, hold it off at arm’s length, and suck out its blood and life. This is a Hemipteran, or true bug, and belongs to the family Phymatide Uhr. Itis the Phymata Hrosa, Fabr., the specific name erosa referring to its jagged appearance. It is also called the “stinging bug,” in reference to its habit of repelling .intrusion by a painful thrust with its sharp,. strong beak. 294 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. The “stinging bug” (Fig. 118) is somewhat jagged in appearance, about three-eighths of an inch long, and generally of a yellow color; though this latter seems quite variable. Fia. 118.—Side view, natural sie. Frequently there is a distinct greenish hue. Beneath the abdomen, and on the back of the head, thorax and abdomen, it is more or less specked with brown ; while across the dorsal Fie. 119.—Magnified twice. aspect of the broadened abdomen is a marked stripe of brown (Fig. 119 d, d). Sometimes this stripe is almost want- ing, sometimes a mere patch, while rarely the whole abdomen, Fie. 120.—Beak, much magnified. is very slightly marked, and as often we find it almost wholly brown above and below. The legs (Fig. 119, 5), beak and MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 295 antenne (Fig. 119, a) are greenish yellow. The beak (Fig. 120) has three joints (Fig. 120, a, b,c) and a sharp point (Fig. 120, d). This beak is not only the great weapon of offense, but also the organ through which the food is sucked. By the Fie. 121.— Antenna, much magnified. use of this, the insect has gained the soubriquet of stinging bug. This compact jointed beak is peculiar to all true bugs, and by observing it alone, we are able to distinguish all the ‘Fie. 122.— Anterior Leg, magnified—exterior view. .very varied forms of this group. The antenna (Fig. 121) is four-jointed. The first joint (Fig. 121, a) is short, the second and third (Fig. 121, 6 and c)are long and slim, while the ter- Fia. 123.—Interior view. minal one (Fig. 121, d) is much enlarged. This enlarged joint is one of the characteristics of the genus Phymata, as described by Latreille. But the most curious structural peculiarity of this insect, and the chief character of the 296 MANUAL OF TRAE APIARY. genus Phymata, is the enlarged anterior legs (Figs. 122, 123: and 124). These, were they only to aid in locomotion, would seem like awkward, clumsy organs, but when we learn that they are used to grasp and hold their prey, then we can but appreciate and admire their modified form. The femur (Fig. 122, 6) and the tarsus (Fig. 122, a) are toothed, while the Fie. 124.—Claw, extended. latter is greatly enlarged. From the interior lower aspect of the femur (Fig. 123) is the small tibia, while on the lower edge of the tarsus (Fig. 123, d) isa cavity in which rests the single claw. ‘The other four legs (Fig. 125) are much as usual. This insect, as already intimated, is very predaceous, lying in wait, often almost concealed, among flowers, ready to vap- Fie. 125.— Middle Leg, much magnified. ture and destroy unwary plant-lice, caterpillars, beetles, but- terflies, moths, and even bees and wasps. We have already noticed how well prepared it is for this work by its jaw-like anterior legs, and its sharp, strong, sword-like beak. It is often caught on the golden rod. This plant, from its very color, tends to conceal the bug, and from the very char- acter of the plant—hbeing attractive as a honey plant to bees. MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 297 —the slow bug is enabled to catch the spry and active honey- bee. - As Prof. Uhler well says of the “stinging-bug”: “It is very useful in destroying caterpillars and other vegetable- feeding insects, but is not very discriminating in its tastes, and would as soon seize the useful honey-bee as the pernicious saw-tly.” .And he might have added that it is equally indif- ferent to the virtues of our friendly insects like the parasitic and predaceous species. We note, then, that this bug is not wholly evil, and as its destruction would be well-nigh impossible, for it is as widely scattered as are the flowers in which it lurks, we may well rest its case, at least until its destructiveness becomes more serious than at present. THE SOUTHERN BEE-KILLERS. Mallophora orcina and Mallophora bomboides. I have received from several of our enterprising bee-keepers of the South—Tennessee, Georgia and Florida—the above insects, with the information that they dart forth from some Fra. 126. Fia. 127. convenient perch, and with swift and sure aim, grasp a bee, bear it to some bush, when they leisurely suck out all but the mere crust, and cast away the remains. The bee which is 298 MANUAL OF TIE APIARY. thus victimized, is readily known by the small hole in the back, through which the juices were pumped out. The insects plainly belong to the family Asilidz, the sam: that ineludes the Missouri bee-killer, Asilus Missouriensis, the Nebraska bee-killer, Promachus bastardi, and other predatory insects, several of which, I regret to say, have the same ev'l habit of killing and devouring our friends of the hive. The charactersof this family, as given by Loew, one of the greatest authorities on Diptera, or two-winged flies, are pro- longed basal cells of the wings, third longitudinal vein bifureate, third joint of antenna simple, under lip forming a horny sheath, empodium, a projection below and beneath the claws (Fig. 131, ¢), a horny bristle, Fie. 128. Fria. 181. The insects in question belong to Loew’s third group, Asilina, as the antenne end in a bristle (Fig. 128), while the second longitudinal vein of the wing (Fig. 129, b) runs into the first (Fig. 129, a). é The genus is Mallophora. The venation of the wings much resembles that of the genus Promachus, the same that con- tains the Nebraska bee-killer, though the form of these insects is very different. The Nebraska bee-killer is long and slim like the Asilus Missouriensis (see Fig. 108), while the one in question is much like the neuter bumble-bee in form.. In Mallophora and Promachus, the venation is as repre- sented in Hie, 129, where, as will be seen, the second vein MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 299 (Fig. 129, 6) forks, while in the genus Asilus (Fig. 130) the the third vein is forked, though in all three genera the third joint of the antennz (Fig. 128) ends in a prolonged bristle. One of the most common of these pests, which I am informed by Dr. Hagen, is Mallophora orcina, Weid, (Fig. 126) is one inch long, and expands one and three-fourths inches (Fig. 127). The head (Fig. 128) is broad, the eyes black and prominent, the antenne three-jointed, the last joint terminating in a bristle, while the beak is very large, strong, and like the eyes and antennz, coal black. This is mostly concealed by the light yellow hairs, which are crowded thick about the mouth and between the eyes. The thorax is prominent and thickly set with light yellow hairs. The abdomen is narrow, tapering, and covered with Fig. 129." yellow hairs except the tip, which is black. Beneath, the Insect is clear black, though there are scattering hairs of a grayish yellow color on the black legs. The pulvilli, or feet pads (Fig. 131, 5) are two in number, bright yellow in color, surmounted by strong black claws (Fig. 131, a), while below and between is the sharp spine (Fig, 131, c), technically known as the empodium. TI cannot give the distinctions which mark the sexes, nor can I throw any light upon the larval condition of the insect. The habits of the flies are interesting, if not to our liking. Their flight is like the wind, and perched near the hive, they rush upon the unwary bee returning to the hive with its full load of nectar, and grasping it with their hard strong legs, 300 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. they bear it to some perch near by, when they pierce the crust, suck out the juices, and drop the carcass, and are then ready to repeat the operation. A hole in the bee shows the cause of its sudden taking off. The eviscerated bee is not always killed at once by this rude onslaught, but often can crawl some distance away from where it falls, before it expires. Another insect nearly as common is the Mallophora bom- boides, Wied. This fly might be called a larger edition of the one just described, as in form, habits and appearance, it closely resembles the other. It belongs to the same genus, possess- ing all the generic characters already pointed out. It is very difficult to capture them, as they are so quick and active. This fly is one and five-sixteenths inches long, and expands. two and a half inches. The head and thorax are much as in Fie. 130. GED the other species. The wings are very long and strong, and, asin the other species, are of a smoky brown color. The - abdomen is short, pointed, concave from side to side on the under surface,while the grayish yellow hairs are abundant on the legs and whole under portion of the body. The color is a lighter yellow than in the other species. These insects are powerfully built, and if they become numerous, must prove a formidable enemy to the bees. Another insect very common and destructive in Georgia, though it closely resembles the two just describod, is of a different genus. Itis the Laphria thoracica of Fabricius. In this genus the third vein is forked, and the third joint of the antenna is without the bristle, though it is elongated and tapering. The insect is black, with yellow hair covering the upper surface of the thorax. The abdomen is wholly black both above and below, though the legs have yellow hairs on the femurs and tibia. This insect belongs to the same family as the others, and has the same habits. Itis found North as well as South, MANUAL OF THE APIARY. 301 HONEY-COMB CORAL. A very common fossil found in many parts of the Hastern and Northern United States, is, from its appearance, often called petrified honey-comb. We have many such specimens in our museum. In some cases the cells are hardly larger than a pin-head ; in others a quarter of an inch in diameter. These (Fig. 132) are not fossil honey-comb as many are led to believe, though the resemblance is so striking that no wonder that the public generally are-deceived. These speci- mens are fossil coral, which the paleontologist places in the genus Fayosites ; favosus being a common species in our State. They are very abundant in the lime rock in northern Michi- Fie. 132. gan, and are very properly denominated honey-stone coral. The animals of which these were once the skeletons, so to speak, are not insects at all, though often called so by men of considerable information. It would be no greater blundcr to call an oyster or a clam an insect. The species of the genus Favosites first appeared in the Upper Silurian rocks, culminated in the Devonian, and disap- peared in the early Carboniferous. No insects appeared till the Devonian age, and no Hymenoptera—hbees, wasps, etc.— till after the Carboniferous. So the old-time Favosites reared 302 MANUAL OF THE APIARY. its limestone columns and helped to build islands and conti- nents untold ages—millions upon millions of years—before any flower bloomed, or any bee sipped the precious nectar. In some specimens of this honey-stone coral (Fig..133), there Fie. 133. are to be seen banks of cells, much resembling the paper cells of some of our wasps. This might be called wasp-stone coral, except that both styles were wrought by the self-same animals. GENERAL INDEX. A B C oF BEE CULTURE ABDOMEN, OF INSECTS separate from bo ALSIKE CLOVER—see clover AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL ; dette function..... RY, where to locate.. a Rouse “see house apiary . 255 position of........ - 152 APIARY GROUNDS . 152 arrangement of. 152 improvement: of. - 153 screens fOR . 182 shade for. 153 APICULTURE, adaptation to WOMED.........-0+66 16 aS an avocation . 15 fascination of . 12 for amateurs... 15 for specialists .. uu inducements to .. ta 5 15 improves the mind lv recreation 12 elds deli Ww profits of.. 18 requisites 18 conventi 19 enthusiasm . 24 experience . 18 mental effor' 18 persistence . 24 Prompt attention 23 publications........ 19 study and thought..... 18 visits to other apiarists. 18 WOTK.... 20. ee. cece ee ee eee ll unsuited to whom 12 PID FAMILY...... 34 animals of 35 instincts of . 34 APIS GENUS.... 38 animals of.... 40 BARBERRY, gure... BARNES’ BANE Basswoop . ¥ Ke€p ......sene BEE-BREAD—see pollen BEE DRESS FOR LADIES. BEE ENEMIES ly for BEE-KEEPERS’ AXIOMS.. BExE-KEEPERS’ MAGAZINE BEE-KILLER .......+. figure of. remedies for . BEE-LOUSE figure of . remedy for: INDEX. E. PAGE. BEE-MOTH ... ... 262 | BoxEs—continued. cocoonsof . +» 264 FEULES OF cise sinwscavcnsier ves rive vere 143 figure of ++ 264 sham ....... . 142 eggsof .. - + 263 figure of -. 148 figure of.. 264, 265 oeition of.. . 144 larva of .. «» 263 LD cicccieisiormiscasiece . 142 figure uf. . 264 special support for. .12 remedies .... 266 WSO osreaie csi saree stines » 142 silk tube of.. +. 26 Box HONEY . - 142 figure of.......... 262, 263 when to secure. +. 215 BEE PLANTS —sée plants +. 220 where to keep.. . 216 necessary to success 218 | BRANCH........ 27 221 articulata .. aT 196 of the honey-bee .. 27 ! 196 | BREATHING OF INSECTS 59 201 | BREATHING-MOUTHS . 201 | BUCKWHEAT....... 201 figure o 197 | BUTTON-BA 106 figure of... 106 211 | CAGES 244 for introducing queen. . 184 238 for shipping queen. 186 22 figure of. 187 126 | CALENDAR..... 274 126 | CARPENTER BEES oe 126 | CATNIE......... 282, 240 BIBLIOGRAPHY. 113 | CHAFF HIVES oe 251 BINGHAM HIVE. 140 | CHRYSALIDS.. . 69 seawesteasn 440 | CrrcULATORY SYSTEM - - oF Brnguam SMOKER. . 199 | CLASS...... 28 gure Of............ - ly insecta.. 28 BLACK BEES—see German bees . 41 of the honey-bee wis ictoeravereastevabaiaus rai 28 BLACKBERRIES .......... . 236 | CLEOME—see Rocky M’t’n bee plant. 238 BLOOD OF INSECTS. . 5 Bi 228 BODY OF INSECTS .. - 48 parts of ........ 48 BomBus 35 BONESET 238 figure of. ~ 241 BONNET ics sciscstn ecto sien 45 BooKS FOR THE APIARIST . 21 | CLUSTERING OUTSIDE THE HIVE A BC of Bee Culture » 22 CATUSC OL ajereccrniainiarsstinsemure eciconare = Bevan’s Honey-Bee 113 how prevented. 158 foreign........... 22 adding room 176 Gray's Bota 244 extracting 188 greener 113 shading 153 unteris Manu 23 | COCOONS. 69 King’s Text-Book. 52 of bees 98 Langstroth on the 21 | COLLEGE C 118 Neighbour’s Apiary 118 | COLONIES, Quinby’s Mysteries . 22 always strong 119 BOOKS FOR THE ENTOMOLOGIST. 113 how moved 187 Duncans Transformations of bn COLUMELLA 44 e SOMB....... 108 Kirby & “Spence é cells in. . 110 Packard........ worker . 10 Wostwood 2 drone «. 110 Reports figure of. -. 109 Fitch for guide.. - 208 Harris. how fastened 157, 158 Riley how made..... 108, 110 BORAGE..... transparency of. . 10 figure of...... use of ......- gee ete ones . 0 BOTTOM-BOARD what determines kind. +» 110 igure of...... ComMB FOUNDATION..... + 203 immovable American....... « 204 Box HIVES figure of. = 203 OXES 2 aacasserescs history of = 208 Barker & Dicer. how cut..... ~» 207 crate for..... how fastened. 209 ot Spur of.. INDEX. inventor of. CoMB HONEY .. apparatus to eare of .. in boxes. in frames . in what for: marketing. when to se CONVENTIONS . COVER FOR FRAMES. COVER FOR HIVES DE GEE DIGESTIVE ORGANS. 6U DISEASES......... + 259 dysentery. \¢ foul brood «20% DISSECTION 5) DISSECTING INSTRUMENTS . 51, 65 eMses........... 4 needle points. . dividers —see separators .. DIVIDING. sCOLGNIES 2806 artificial MIO peice aieisincaidinicigiewiscmns 171, peas figure of USE OT ..seeneee Doran QUEENS DORSATA BEE DRESS FOR LADIES... S 87 86 88 89 86 92 86 87 88 86 86 88 why so numerous. - 8) ‘DYSENTERY PAT, 25: 67 . 67 be . 96 EGYPTIAN BEE . 43 Empty CELLS.. . 188 importance of. . 188 how to secure. . 188 ENTRANCE TO HIVE 128 EXPICRANIUM. ....-sceceeeeceeecceceuree 48 EXTRACTOR, of honey figure of. NistOry Of. ....cceee eee cee eee ee ow to us knives for... 53 compound .. 54 simple........... w FABRICIUS 46 vaMey 34 eva sterocieig less oa 34 oF on honey- sbee. FEEDER. LOWERS BY cause - 260 cure for - 260 ympt « 29 FOUNDATION 203 figure o: 203 histo) . 203 use 0: » 207 how cut 207 how fastened 209 how made. 206 FRAMES...... 132 arrangement for surplu: 147 block for making........ . 134 figure OF; 3 . 135 cover for.. ... 136 183, 134 ee 132 . 133 « 185 . 15 inventor rot. 13 Langstroth - 132 number of . « 132 INDEX GALLUP FRAME ERMAN OR BLACK ‘LEANINGS IN BEE CuLT figure of.. GRAPES INJURED BY BEES GRAPE VINES FOR SHADE . ai aia +» 228 GUNTHER ..... es. cece eeeeee eee nee eee 12 gust..... + 242 - 218 ist of .......... 221 HIANDLING BEES ...... 2... cee e cence eee 195 Housn APIARY . » 255 HARRIS’ INJURIOUS INSECTS. ess AT advantages of....... « 256 HARVEY.........-.. wee 4d are they desirable ?. « 256 HEAD OF INSECTS ae 48 objections to ........ . 257 organs of ..... . 48 | HUBER......... . 71 HEART OF INSECTS... . 57 | HUBER HIVE . 138 HEXAPODS—see Insects . - 30 kinds of.... . 138 HIVES. ....- eeeee eee ue ee ... 22 | HUNTER’S MANUAL...... » 2B alighting-board of --. 127 | HyMENOPTEROUS INSECTS - 31 Bingham...... ++. 140 the highest .. - 8 e 0. -. 140 parasitic 32 bottom-board of 27 Tre 0: . box not good . 122 70 chaff......-.. . 251 . & cover of...... 129 . 30 division-boara 37 28 entrance to 128 30 figure of 55 30 frames fo! 32 30: Huber.. 33 30 joints of 26 30 26 ransformations of ......... . 66 iB - 130 transformations, complete.. . 66 Langstroth ... - 123 transformations, incomplete..... 70 tigure of - 124 IyTRODUCTION OF CELL........- 1. 185 Tumber for... » Let fil eae .» 167 movable comb - 123 INTRODUCTION OF QUEEN. » 183 movable frame. 122 | INTESTINES ......... .. 61 near the ground - 128) IvaLian BEES.. 41, 180 nucleus ......... . 165 description of. , 18h position of.. 54 figure of.. Frontispiece figure of. 15 history of. Quindy 36° Bs superiority of.. igure oO: 2 eee 3 BH JAWS. HONEY .........000e eee | sopas TRE defined...........-++ . 104 figure of. excl : 1 or food.........--.- . ING: BURD s, s:cjcid siaaiwscioss, coneiealesnatisiseduale 22 granulated, h how dissolved. 183 | FING ete PEXT-BOOK.....0.ccsecccues 2 ow collected ...... 105 | Kinpy & SPENCE" SENTOMOLOGY 47, 13 how deposited. . 105 how transported . 1U5 marketing of 3 ane Lasium. - natural use 0 105 | LADIES’ 197 LANGSTROTH, Rev. L. L. - 13 BANGeTROTy "FRAME... “3 HONEY-COMB—see HONEY EXTRACTOR —see extractor.. 188 | La figure of ............ Sisjalatn o aiers/Si83 eee. 189 LA TRENLLE.. INDEX. LEAF-CUTTING BEE...: NEUTERS—continued. figure of... MASON BEES. MAXILLZ MEGACHILE.. 47 MELIPONA . 2 MICE 19 nate desirable. second swarms p NEIGHBOUR, THE APIARY ‘Ss Carty function of ..... old workers..... young workers . honey stomach of.. ausacenansseceneacaunl Sie SERRE Eee figure of....... jaws of...... figure of. figure of. larva of ..... fruit trees... figure of. golden-rod.. longevity of . figure of. number of...... Judas tree . pollen baskets of... figure of. PLANTS—continued. July. mignonette... figure of. 231 mustard..... 233, sour-wood. ‘Spanish need] clipping t wing of. ow done . not injurious why done.. cocoon of..... development of eggs Of..........2.. how impregnated . sa Wagner’s theory fecundity of ........ St. John’s wort. 240 laying o Sumac ........... 226 longevity of teasel ........ . 233 must have empty cells figure of. - 236 never to be wanting tick-seed.. » 244 never to be poor... . 186 tulip tree. « 234 no sovereign... . & _, igure of - 285 ovaries of. - 2 willow....... « 224 figure o - 64 figure of + 223 oviduct of. - 64 wistaria ....... 225 - 102 American. figure of. 225 ea od, Chinese..... . 186 figure of 226 . 7 PRIN Vivissisgerinanoase 44 spermatheca, of. - 7 POISON FROM ere rR sterility of . - 8 ignocualon, OF: 12 sting o . UW POISON SACK . 95 tongue of 3 POLLEN........- Nl figure 0 function of . 112 wings of. how carried. 111 | QUEEN CELLS nature of. 1 figure of source of.. ul how secured . where deposi introduction o PREPARATION FOR gu ae college course QUEEN REARING ererererey PESO SES UCP SSennREnE we 4 pollen or bee-bread. propolis or bee-glue ue PRODUCTS OF INSECTS.. PROPOLIS OR BEE-GLUE function of . nature of . source of.. PUBLICATIONS.. American Bee Journal... Bee-Keepers’ Magazine. . Gleanings 1 in Bee Pulture PA QUEEN SEIPEING QUINBY SuOKB. cage for. figure of. Italian or Ligurian. . INDEX. PAGE RACES OF THE HONE ye BEE cont d. history of characters of . REAUMUR 45 RESPIRATION 59 RILEY’S REPORTS 47 ROBBING .........- 5 how checked . how prevented when to fear..... Rock Y MOUNTAIN figure of... ROYALJELLY. RUSSELL HIVE. plassing... SECTION BLOCK. Ww ee Spi SECTION RACK.. Poole. prev brevents melting SMOKERS bellows. i 198 how used 201 Bingham...... . 199 figure of.... .., 199 . . PaGEe. SMOKERS -continued. MMs cccnicsaeaccinaca aciecea ces sewier 198 . 199 arsatiafhiga . 240° RAd ibeijencinnetarneenan . i SPECIES oF Tak HONEY-BEE. - 4l SPERMATHECA.. -. 65> SPIDERS ..... +. RL SPIRACLES . 59: SPRING DWINDLING 54 STARTING AN APIARY. SWARMING. after-swar: clustering... drone-brood started old colony—how known preparation for... drone-brood queen cells . how prevented. . TACHINA FLY figure of .... TAILOR-BEE . figure of... TRANSFERRING . method of .... when easiest...... TRANSFORMATIONS O incomplete TRIGONA . TULIP TRE figure of... VARIETIES OF THE HONEY-BEE— a see races. INDEX. E. PAGE 44 | WINTERING—continued. absorbents above bees « 253 chaff hives......... 261 WAGNER....... . 19 chamber contracte 253 WAGNER’S . 81 colonies prepared 248 WASBPS........ 271 depositories for . 252 remedies for, 272 ar.. 22 WATER, FOR BEES 98 se. aerate sarang 106 house apiar. ‘composition of 107 good foo®..... function of ... how secured importance of. os 106 1. BB 1 204 1 223 1. 65 1 86 of queen + of mor ker. BH WINTEHING..... 146 Tequisites tO Safe.......seeeeee eee « 248 INDEX TO BaRKE LOUSE of Tulip Tree. BEE ENEMIES .. BERLEPSCH DEBEAUYOx'S HIVE DELLA Hocee DatERZoNn HIVE.... Fosstt HoNEY CoMB fligures of GRECIAN HIVES. HARBISON HIVE.. » 284 “HISTORY OF MOVABLE FRAMES..... 278 FIVES........0:seeeeee : Berlepsch... - 284 Debeauvoy ... « 282 Della Rocca.. . 283 pete on ere . bn bison.. 7 aber Sa cese : 28 troth . Munn... - 29 agentes! uf Schirach . » 283 Schmidt. Shaw INSECTS ....---0 60005 Mallophora bomboid Mallophora orcina . Phymata erosa.. late breeding... packing” bo pnoe als gure of.......... protected St left out why disastrous .......... excessive moisture extremes of temperature. spring dwindling too early cessation - ‘storing. ait unwholesome food . WOMEN AS BEE-KEEPERS . WORKERS—see Neuters.. fertile .... WISTARIA,.. American . LANGSTROTH HIVE.. LAPHRIA THORACICA LECANIUM TULIPIFE figure of.. figures of... EavMArA AMEOSS, J Nts ‘medlar Motherwort Sourwood Sourwoop. figure of. SOUTHERN B figures of. STINGING B figures of. SWAMMERDAM DRANG ULAR HIVE figure of COOK'S NEW MANUAL OF THE APIARY. NOTICES BY THE PRESS. Needs no recommendation—recommends itself.— Western Rural, Chicago. This work is exceedingly valuable—indeed indispensable to apiarists.— Voice of Masonry. Treating the art in all its different branches in a clear, concise and interesting manner.—The Canadian Entomologist. It is the fullest, most practical, and most satisfactory treatise on the subject now before the public.—Oountry Gentleman. It contains the latest developments of science connected with bee-culture and honey production.—Chicago Evening Journal. It contains the latest scientific discoveries in apiarian management and bee- keeping upparatus.—Prairie Farmer, Chicago. The latest, fullest, most practical and satisfactory treatise on the subject, now before the public.—Lambton (Canada) Advocate. Every point connected with the subject is handled in a clear, exhaustive, yet pithy and practical manner.—Rural New Yorker. It is both a practical and scientific discussion, and nothing that could interest the bee-raiser is left unsaid.—Chicago Inter-Ocean. The most thorough work on the apiary ever published, and the only one illus- trating the various bee plants.—Lansing (Mich.} Republican. Prof. Cook is an entomologist, a botanist, a ready writer, a passionate lover of the honey-bee, and his new work savors of all these qualities.—Standard, New Bedford, Mass. I feel like thanking God that we have such a man as Prof. Cook to take bold of the subject of bee-culture in the masterly way in which he has done it.—Glean- ings in Bee Culture. Itisa book which does credit to our calling; one that every bee-keeper may welcome as a fit exponent of the science which gives pleasure to all who are en- gaged in it.—American Bee Journal. The boney-bee comes with the perfume of summer flowers, and one of its best friends, A. J. Cook, has written its history and, habits in a handsomely illustrated solume.—American Poultry Journal. Itis just what might have been expected from the distinguished author—a work acceptable to the ordinary bee-man, and a delight to thestudent of scientific apiculture.—Bee Keepers’ Maguzine. Cook’s new “‘Manual of the Apiary,” comes with high encomiums from America; and certainly it appears to have cut the ground from under future book makers, for some time to come.—British Bee Journal. . , It ig the most complete and practical treatise on bee-culture in Europe or America. Thearrangementis successive, and every topic is lucidly treated in the Professor’s blithesome, light-hearted, pithy, suggestive style.—Post and Tribune, Detroit, Mich. The typogra hy and general execution of the work is handsome and neat, and altogether we have a work that may be safely recc ded asthe M lof the Apiarist—the book, par excellence, to which all may revert with both pleasure and profit, for instruction in the mar nt of the apiary.—Michigan Farmer. It must rank with Henderson’s manuals, and share with them the praise of be- ing an indispensable adjunct to every specialist’s library, It is a scientific, practical book, a book of “ how to do” and “why to do,” tersely written, yet fully ex- pressed ; 2 book to the credit of American literature.—Scientijic Farmer, Boston. Prof. A. J. Cook’s “ Manual of the Apiary” contains, besides the description of the anatomy and physiology of the honey bee, beautifully illustrated, the pro- ducts and races of the bees, honey plants—the instructions for the different operations performed in the hives. All agree that it is the work of a Master, and is of real value.—L’Apiculteur, Paris. 1 have read with a great deal of interest the copy of Cook's Manual you sent me, and I intend to publish extracts from it in the ‘‘ Bulletin” of the Society of Apiculture of the Department of the Somme, so that our apiarists may be aware of the value of this estimable work. It is a credit to the author as well as the ublishers. Ihave never yet met with a work, either French or foreign, which I ike so much.—L’ Abbe L. DuBois, at La Malmaison Aisne, France. (It is printed in the best style of the art, on fine book paper and superbly illustrated. Price, bound in cloth, $1.25; in paper, $1.00, postpaid. Per dozen : cloth, $12.00 ; paper, $9.50. THOMAS G. NEWMAN & SON, Publishers, 972 and 974 West Madison Street, CHICAGO. PUBLICATIONS FOR THE APIARY, POR SALE AT THE OFFICE OF The American Bee Journal, 9474 West Madison Street, Chicago, Ill. COOkK’Ss NEW MANUAL OF THE APIARY, This is a new edition of Prof. Cook’s Manual of the Apiary, entirely re-written, greatly enlarged and supurbly illustrated. Being new, it be tully up with the times on every conceivable subject that interests the apiarist. It is not only instructive, but intensely interesting. It comprises a full delineation of the anatomy and physiology of the Honey- Bee, illustrated with costly wood engravings, full descriptions of honey-pro- ducing plants, trees and shrubs, &c., splendidly illustrated—and last, though not least, detailed instructions for the successful accomplishment of all the various manipulations necessary in the apiary. This work is a masterly production, and one that no bee-keeper, however limited his means, can afford to do without. It is printed in the best style of the art, on fine book paper, and superbly illus- fated PArOUEBOUE Price, bound in cloth, $1.25, postpaid ; in paper binding, $1.00, postpaid. : THE HIVE AND HONEY-BEE, by L. L. Langstroth. This is a standard volume, well illustrated and nicely printed. Price, $2.00. MYSTERIES OF BEE-KEEPING, by M. Quinby. The author has treated the subject of Bee- eeping in a manner that cannot fail to interest all who read this work. Price, $1.50. THE DZIERZON THEORY; being a full elucidation of Scien- tific Bee-Keeping. This “ theory” presents in the form of distinct propositions, the fundamental princlples of bee-culture, and in this work the late Baron of Berlepsch furnishes. a condensed statement of the facts and arguments by which these propositions are demonstrated. Itis of untold value to beginners and u]] others who desire to study the subject of apiculture. Itis just what thousands want. It contains 50 pages and is printed on fine book paper. Price, postpaid, 20 cents, or three copies for 50 cents. HONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE, by the Editor of the American Bee Journal. This is a pamphlet of 24 pages, discoursing upon the Ancient History of Bees and Honey ; the nature, quality, sources, and preparation of Honey for the Mar- ket; Honey, as an article of Food, giving recipes for making Honey Cakes, Cookies, Puddings, Foam, Wines, &c.; and Honey as Medicine, followed by many useful Recipes. It is intended for consumers, and should be scattered by thousands a]] over the country, and thus assist in creating a demand for honey.— Prices: Single copies, 10 cents postpaid ; 15 copies for $1.00 by mail, postpaid ; 100 copies, with name and address of honey-producer printed on them, $5.00 by mail, postpaid ; 250 copies, by express, at 4 cents each ; or more copies, by express, at3centseach. Itis published in German also at the same prices. WINTERING BEES ; How to do it Successfully. This contains all the Prize Essays on this impartant subject that were read before the Centennial Bee-Keepers’ Association. The prize ($25 in gold) was awarded to Prof. Cook’s Essay, which is reported in full in this pamphlet. It contains 30 pages and is printed on fine book paper. Price, 1 cents, or five copies for 40 cents. SPECIAL EDITION of the Journal. Containing the Official Report of the Proceedings of the National Convention, held in New York, Oct., 1t-18, 1877, with all the Essays and Discussions,—together with a description of the implements for the Apiary, on exhibition at the Ameri- can Institute Fair.—Price 10 cents. Ge Send by Postal Money Order, Draft or Registered Letter at our risk. THOMAS G. NEWMAN & SON, 974 West Madison Street, Chicago, Ill. THE OLDEST, LARGEST AND BEST BEE PAPER IN AMERICA. Forty-eight Pages Monthly; $1.50 per annum. —0—— DEVOTED EXCLUSIVELY TO BEE-CULTURE. ——o———_- THE AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL. 0 APPRECIATIVE NOTICES. It is the most valuable publication on bee-culture in America,— Sun, Anoka, Minn. tis snthority in all matters pertaining to bee-culture.—Repub- lican, Mason City, lowa. It stands at the head of American publications devoted to bee- culture.—Patriot, Springfield, Mo. It is a complete guide to those interested in bee-culture.— Everybody's Ledger, Lewiston, Pa. It is most valuable, and will always find a hearty welcome in every apiary.—Herald, Los Angeles, Cal a The AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL is a publication of great value to all honey producers.— Daily News, Danville, Va. ‘We recommend the AMERICAN BEE JOURNALas the ablest bee paper in the United Stutes.—Furmers’ Home Journal. It is progressive, interesting and valuable to every, one who keeps bees, and is ably edited.—Agriculturist, Quincy, Il. It isfull of useful suggestions and instructive articles to every one interested in honey pruducing.—Democrat, Allegan, Mich. It is full to overflowing with matters pertaining to the success- © ful management of the little honey prcducers—a thoroughly live periodical.—_Standard, New Bedford, Mass. The JOURNAL surpasses itself ; each issue improves upon the last, in the bright, cheerful ep earance and instructive influence of its whole composition.—W. Williamson, Lexington, Ky. The AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL is increasing in influence with each number. It is a valuable auxiliary to the bee-keeper, and should be taken ‘and rea4 by all interested in bee-culture.—Stand- ard, Cedar Rapids, lowa. I hail the coming of the BEE JOURNAL with joy. It is the greatest light we have on bee-culture, bringing ideas, not only from the editor, but from all the other experienced bee men of the land.—L. A. Taber, Holyoke, Mass. In its depart iment of journalism, the AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL stands without arival. Devoted exclusively to bee-culture and the production of pure honey, its columns are filled _with such matter asa keeper of bees can read and profit by. Its table of contents is as full as itis interesting.—Gazette, Lewiston, Pa. The AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL ought to be taken by all bee- keepers ; it is neatly printed and replete in useful information about bees and honey. It fully describes the habits of those bus: extractors of sweets from flowers and herbs, whose products, witl the yield from our cows, makes our land literally flow with “ milk and honey.”—Muryland Farmer. The BEE JOURNAL is pre-eminently above all its competitors. It is full of fire, enterprise and vim; it discusses the various uestions pertaining to bee-culture with spirit and energetic thought ; itis an honor to its Editor and tothe interest which sustains it. It has no individual axe to grind, but is the fearless champion of allthat is useful and good ; steadfast, unwavering, honest ; never vascillating or swerving ; but true, as the needle to the pole, to the interest of bee-keepers. It should be supported by every une interested in bees or honey.—American Grocer. THOMAS G, NEWMAN & SON, Publishers, 972 and 974 West Madison St., CHICAGO. ‘LI UO ALIUM SUAdAHM-HHA TVOILOVUd GNV TOASSHO0NS Clear Ahead !--We Lead in Smokers! Our new invention of a DOUBLE BLAST, places our smoker far ahead of any inthe market. Doolittle suys of it: * the arrangement to change the draft so as to make it a cold-blast after the fire is kindled, places it ahead of any smoker in the market by a long way.” So say all who see it. Every bee-keeper in the Jand should _see an illustration and description of it before purchasing elsewhere. Prices—Large, 214 inch tube, $1.50 ; Medium, 2inch tube, $1.25 ; Small, without double-blast, 75c. By mail, 25c. extra each. QUINBY’S NEW BEE-KEEPING, by L. C. ROOT. __ This is the most practical work published, It contains 100 illustrations, includ- ing an excellent portrait of M. Quinby. Price, by mail, $1.50. : Wesell everything used by practical bee-keepers. Send for our illustrated Circular. L. C. ROOT & BRO., Mohawk, Herk. Co., N. Y. PERFECTION HONEY BOX. CLOVER & 27No, CPDL S4 ON Arar ONE BRO ATU, NO X08 WALLOVULLVY LSONW LAMAVN FHL QUICKEST METHOD GLASSING HONEY. Patented, “BIST ‘2 ABIL The Caps enclosing the glass to form the box, are of box pasteboard, and are made to fit any size Section or Prize Box used ; also to inclose 2, 3, 6 or.12 sections in one box if desired. Some of the advantages of this box are: the rapidity with which the boxes are glassed, and the honey prepared for market. The caps are bound with embossed paper, causing the honey to show to the best advantage. They are handsomely labelled in gilt, making the most attractive style of Honey Box on the market. There is no leakage, so that honey glassed with these Caps, will not draw flies more than other goods. The 2 caps for a2-lb box weigh % ounce. Send postal for descriptive circular. Address, J. BE. MOORE, Sup’t of Byron Apiary, Byron, Genesee Co., N.Y. DADANT & SON. Colonies of Italian Bees, Imported and Home-Bred Queens, Hives, Extractors, the BEST COMB FOUNDATION MADE, and divers Apiarian supplies. We can give references in nearly every State of the Union, and in Canada, and also among the most noted Apiarists of Europe. Circulars and samples of Foundation free. CHAS. DADANT & SON, WMamilton, Hancock Co., Ill, HEADQUARTERS IN THE SOUTH, For Bee Hives, Honey Boxes, Honey and Wax Extractors, Knives, Smokers, Comb Foundation, Dollar and Tested Queens, Nuclei and Full Colonies of Italian Bees, ete. Having fitted up alarge shop, with an 8-horse power steam engine to run my saws, planing mill, and all necessary machinery to manufacture bee hives, sec- Hone and apiarian supplies, I am now ready to fill all orders. PAUL L. VIALLON, BAYOU GOULA, LA. REV. A. SALISBURY, FINE QUEENS AND BEES CYPRIAN BEE, In its native purity, will doubtless be introduced this year, and offered to the public in 1881. Manufacturer of Comb Foundation, HIVES, SURPLUS HONEY. BOXES, QUEEN SHIPPING CAGES, Etc. DEALER IN ALL NECESSARY APIARY SUPPLIES. All work executed in good style, and at prices to suit the times. «= Send for Circular. Address, REV. A. SALISBURY, Camargo, Douglas County, I. SEEDS FOR HONEY PLANTS, Always kept in stock, including MELILOT CLOVER, ALSIKE CLOVER, WHITE CLOVER, CHINESE MUSTARD, CATNIP, SUMMER RAPE, BORAGE, BASSWOOD, TEASEL, MOTHERWORT, MIGNONETTE, RESEDA GRANDIFLORA, SILVER HULL BUCKWHEAT SPIDER PLANT, CLEOME, ROCKY MOUNTAIN BEE PLANT. @™ Send for Catalogue. Address, THOMAS G. NEWMAN & SON, 972 and 974 W. Madison Street, Chicago, Ill. THE BEST IS THE CHEAPEST! COFFIN BERRY’S EXCELSIOR HONEY EXTRACTOR! From Eight to Fourteen Dollars. Having made several improvements in the EXCELSIOR EXTRACTOR it is now offered to the Bee-Keepers of America as the MOS‘! PERFECT MACHINE IN THE MARKET. The universal favor with which the EXCEL- SIOR EXTRACTOR was received in 1878, has induced other manufacturers to adopt several of itsimprovements. My experience and experiments of last sea- son, With the assistance and suggestions of skillful workmen, have enabled me to erfectan Extractor that cannot be excelled, and can only be equaled y being closely imitated. The Excelsior is made entirely of metal, and is conse- quently very light, strong and durable, with lugs at the bottom for firmly attaching to the floor if desired. The strong over-motion gearing, so necessary to ease in running and speedy operating, was designed and is manufactured expressly for the Excelsior. A child ten years of age can operate the machine as rapidly as it can be supplied with combs. The top or cross-band, to which is attached the gear- fR ing. is wrought iron, three inches broad, with the ends turned down in such manner asto thoroughly brace and strengthen the can, and holding the basket firmly inan UPTIEDE pOsILlOn: The Comb Basket having vertical sides, insures the extracting power alike for top and bottom of frames. The sides of the basket being movable and interchange- able, greatly facilitate the operation of dusting before and thoroughly cleaning after use if desired. __ The basket can be taken from or replaced in the can in a moment, there being no rusty screws to take out or nuts to remove. At the bottom of the can, and below the basket, isa cone or metal standard. in the top of which revolves the bottom pivot of the basket, thereby giving room for sixty or seventy pounds of honey without touching the basket or pivot below. i Nos. 3, 4 and 5 have strainers covering the canal Jead- ing to the faucet, which obviate the delay of several hours in waiting for the honey to settle, and the tedious and wasteful process of skimming. The faucet being below the bottom level of the honey, renders unneces- sary the usual tipping and wrenching incident to draw- ing off the honey. These also have close-fitting metal covers, which entirely exclude dust, dirt, flies and bees when not in use. ‘The baskets of Nos.4and 5have no center rod running from top to bottom, which wiJl be found very convenient by those who uncap both sides of the comb pefore putting in the basket, as they can be turned without removal. The strong iron handles placed at the sides, a little above the center, are com- pletely side-braced, and add much to convenience in handling. * The wire baskets are very neat specimens of skiJlful workmanship, thoroughly braced at every point where experience has proven it to be most requisite, and nothing has been omitted that could add to its efficiency. e No. 4, for three frames, hasa triangular basket, movable sides, no center rod, runs smoothly regardless of number of frames, and is fast superseding the demand for four-sided baskets. A LOWER PRICED MACHINE. A cheaper machine being called for by those having but few colonies, and not making a specialty of bee-keeping, 1 have made a special size to take tbe Lang; stroth frame, and one for the American, to sell ut $8.00 each. These have no covers or strainer, and are smaller than the $12.00 and $14.00 sizes, but for the frames named are equal to the others for effective work, and are the best cheap Extractors made. Sizes and Prices. No. 1.—For 2 Langstroth frames, 10x18 inches “9..-Ror 2 American frames, 13x13 inches : . 1000 * 3.—For 2 frames, 13x20 inches or less (embracing all standard sizes).. a4 oo “4—For3 ‘ ae Oo “5 Wor4d & “ “ “ “ ’ 4600 ("A Wberal discount to dealers in Bee-Keepers’ Supplies and to parties order- ing in quantity. Address, c. C. COFFINBERRY, Chicago, I1l., Or American Bee Journal, Chicago, I1l,, where samples can be seen, Buecher ueber Bienenzencht. Cools neues Handbud fiir den Bienenftand. Gs halt gleichmigigen Sehritt mit allen Gegenjtinden die fiir den Bienengiichter Vrtereffe haben. C8 ift nicht nur lehrveid, fon- dern aud) dugerft intereffant und praftif. Preis in Leinwand gebunden, Portofret $1.25; in Papierumfdlag, Portofrei $1. Beim Dugend per Erpref, in Leinwand $12.00 ; Papier, $9.50. Dev Bieneufiod und die Gonigbiene, von Lv. Langftroth. Preis $2.00 Geheimnifie der Bienenzudt, von M. Quinby. Preis $1.50. Bienen-Kultur, oder erfolgreihe Behandlung der Bie- nen, von Thos. G, Newman. DHiejes Pamphlet fakt Beleh- rungen iiber folgende Gegenftinde in fidh: Oertlichfert des BHienenftandes—Honig - Pflangen—Crgiehung der Konigin— Gittern — Sdhwirmen—Vertheilen — Verfesen—Stalientfiren —GCinfiihrung von Kiniginnen—Uusziehen—Bienen behandeln und berubigen; wetter enthilt e3 ein Rapitel, worin die nevefte Methode fiir bie Hervidhtung des Honigs fiir den Handel befdjrie- ben ift,eb. “8 wird in deutfdher undenglifder Sprade herausgegeben. Preis einer jeden Wusqabe 40 Cents, porto- frei, oder $4.00 das Oubend. Honig als Nahrung und Medizin—von Thomas G&G. Newman. Diefed ift ein Pamphlet von 24 Seiten und giebt eine Flare Darlegung iiber Bienen und Honig ded Wlterthums ; die Befdhaffenheit, Qualitat, Quellen und Bubereitung des Honigs fiir den Handel; Honig als Nahrungsmittel, angebend -wie man Honigtuden, Formtidelden, Puddings, Gdaum- fonfect, Weine, u. j. w. guberciten fann; und Honig als Medizin, mit vielen Rezepten. C8 ijt fiir den Conjumenten beftimmt, und follte vieltaufendfaltig iiber das gange Land zerjtreut werden. Erfdeint in englifder und deutjder Sprade, und wird zu folgenden Preifen fir jede Xusgqabe, per Poft Por- tofrei verjdict: Cingelne Copien, 10 Gents; 15 do., $1.00; 100 do., mit Namen und Adrefe gedrudt, $5.00. Die Dzierzgon Theorie, cine vollftindige Crlauterung der wiffenfdaftliden Bienengucht enthaltend. Preis 20 Cents Portofrei, oder drei Ecemplare fiir 50 Cents. Ueberwintern der Bienen 5 Methoden um erfolareid damit gu fein. Prei3 15 Cents, oder 5 Copien fir 50 Cents, THOMAS G. NEWMAN & SON, Chicago. We supply Books for Bee-keepers and others at Publisher's prices. ITALIAN QUEENS, COMPRISING FULL COLONIES, Movable-Frame Hives, Honey Extractors, BEE VEILS, RUBBER GLOVES, ARTIFICIAL COMB FOUNDATION, BEE SMOKERS, Seeds for Honey Plants, —AND— Everything used by Bee-Keepers, for Sale by THOS. G. NEWMAN & SON, Chicago. Ne Every Bee-Keeper should take iz iN we La. IT Is THE Oldest, . Largest, AND é MOST Reliable “3 = Bee-Paper IN THE WORLD! It is the best scientific and practical Journal of APICULTURE ever published. The most successful and experienced Bee-keepers in Europe, as well as America, write for it. —:0:— TERMS: $1.50 PER ANNUM. A Sample Copy sent for 10 cts, Address, THOS. G. NEWMAN & SON, CHICAGO, ILL. ‘Arerdy oq} Joy syuemoerduy 70 nZorejeQ poyersni[] Meu Mo Joy pueg ~~ —_ 98G 86r 000 Veé6l © ‘Aseide ay} yo jenuew oss LZ2Z0°€2S 4S Aseaqry Ayissaaiun feausoD