‘i ea Cornell University Library SF 747.M47 1913 of animals; a book of bri ‘il | i IM [ EXITOS OI CULLUOO TCC LECCE CLEC CCL CCC CCC CCC CL CCC CCC CCC CCC CCCs LIBRARY NEW YORK STATE VETERINARY COLLEGE ce ITHACA, N. Y. UAV UUT ECT ETT EEE TUUU UU 0000000 0 EU C000) eee eee SaMTITUEECOMOUECEELL OOTP ee Cornell University The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http:/Awww.archive.org/details/cu31924001092463 Che Rural Science Series Epitep By L, H. BaiLEy THE DISEASES OF ANIMALS a1v0 Pood JO SeOMEPTAS OYI—"JWsUTJUIINOD puw AOI A "T ‘SL THE DISEASES OF ANIMALS A BOOK OF BRIEF AND POPULAR ADVICE ON THE CARE AND THE COMMON AILMENTS OF FARM ANIMALS BY NELSON §. MAYO, M.S., D.V.S. Professor of Veterinary Science in the Virginia Polytechnie Institute. Form- erly Professor of Veterinary Science in the Kansas State Agricul- tural College, and State Veterinarian of Kansas EIGHTH EDITION Pew Work THE MACMILLAN COMPANY LONDON: MACMILLAN & CO., Lrp. 1913 All rights reserned \\ ey \ NEW YORK STATE VETERINARY COLLEGE LIBRARY del, 1903 anp 1913 Bry THE MACMILLAN COMPANY Set up and electrotyped November, 1903 Reprinted February, 1905, August, 1907, November, 1908, May, 1910, June, 1911, March, 1912 New and Revised Edition, September, 1913 SF blo AMount Pleasant Press J. Horace McFarland Company Harrisburg, Pennsylvania PREFACE THE proper care of animals is more than supply- ing their physical needs and comforts. Animals are subject to ills and accidents. It is the part of every farmer to know how to care for the simpler diffi- culties, and when to eall for advice from the vete- rinarian. The animal industry is rapidly increasing in extent and importance. The day of the skilled veterinarian is coming; but his profession must rest on a quickened public knowledge of the diseases and accidents to which animals are subject. The greater the knowledge of these subjects on the part of the man who raises animals, the keener is his interest in these and all related matters, and the more frequent will be his demands on the veteri- narian. The day of the “horse-doctor book” is pass- ing. Prevention, sanitation, careful handling are more important than mere medication. We are coming to a rational treatment of disease in animals, as we are of disease in man. Now that the farmer is giving so much attention to feeding and breeding, he should also give additional thought to the extra difficulties and ailments that overtake his flocks. (v) vi Preface This little volume is based on an experience of some twelve years in Michigan, Connecticut and Kansas, as a practitioner, as a teacher of veterinary science to students in agricultural colleges, and as a lec- turer before farmers’ institutes. It has been the aim to give concise, practical directions that can be used by those who have to do with the care of animals. Special attention has been given to the use of domes- tic and simple remedies. Complicated medicinal treat- ment has been omitted, as not being practicable in ordinary hands. For the same reason, rare and unusual diseases are omitted because of the danger of confusion. The writer will be glad to receive suggestions from those into whose hands this book may fall, as to measures that will make it more useful and practical. NELSON 8S. MAYO NOTE TO THE SECOND EDITION This book was first issued under the title, “Care of Animals.” The name is now changed in order that the contents of the book may be better expressed. There is no change in the text. Iruaca, N. Y., L. H BAILEY. March 31, 1906 CONTENTS CHAPTER I Paces GENERAL ADVICE. se. giant Saber Seer Gee 1-16 Feeding and Witerian Sat Bs Ate Penh eines Wane 8 3 Exercise : : agtiehe auton inst ak. 48s ek CeO il Protecting the Animals dete asaya. atlbeced 12 Give the Animal Your Personal Ananton: sai ats iy Rae wise 13 CHAPTER II Tue Care or ANIMALS IN STABLES AND YARDS .... . 17-29 Horse Stalls : : , : ‘ 18 Cow Stables oe Ag Gazeta caeibiaio oh 19 The Grooming of Horses ........ bt The Clipping of Horses... ...... 23 The Care of the Feet apts ieee ae ee 24 Bedding Seite te a tert toons ia 23 25 Care of Swine .....2658 eeevee 26 Yards and Corrals eh dee, Use ee RE 5 28 Quarantine Sy . . B4l Gid, or Staggers in Sheep wae B42 Intestinal Worms : ‘ 343 Stomach Worm of Sheep ae oe aot 348 Lung Worm : ee ee 9 ar 350 Gapes in Fowls . Die wedi Span athe . 852 Measles in Meat : Baa hase gi oat leee Ge BOS Trichine in Meat... . Beep arth a lech le Dae ee AL i oat 354 CHAPTER XVI Contagious AND InFEcTIoUS DISEASES. . . . 356-400 Glanders and Farcy . 358 Anthrax, Charbon eo .. 362 Blackleg : ... . 364 Directions for Using Pixades Virus. - ow . 866 Rabies, Hydrophobia ‘4 . ‘ . . 369 Texas, or Southern Cattle Fever. . 7 ode BRL Contagious Abortion. Segisntackecst tat sila .. 2. . 876 Foot and Mouth Disease . 2... 2... j . . 378 ‘Tuberculosis; 9 yap fede Ate rape et ee Ge are Se? ca 380 The VYubérculit Test. 24.4 0 4 % @ aoe we ew s 384 Cowpox ar & apts pitas Tat Lage eats 387 Dog Distemper a Sie . 388 Hog Cholera and Swine Bane som arts 890 Fowl Cholera . ‘ pe ae ; aw . 397 Blackhead Pare ods ‘ om ar . . 399 Roup ... : Some Grell arse 399 Xvi Contents CHAPTER XVII Paces MISCELLANEOUS DISEASES. ......... . . . . 401-429 Azoturia . io he Gana Fee os ee oe ee AOL Retention of ene cys af ay Cate ta Balad ML Gees . . 403 Stone in the Bladder... 2... 2... ...22.--. 404 Foul Sheath a5 Bo eaee chy Sb dane ase ae wae Gee 405 Paralysis of the Penis is Se ee et et ee . 406 Frequent Urinating in Mares. pit eds I hae eteo hs eves . 406 Dropsy .. las bah ie Ses SADE AE 407 “Big leg,” Lymphangitis ..... 0... ee ee . 408 Loco Disease es BMA Slate BIG) Be sal . . . 409 Cornstalk Disease . ae Bole ce eens CAN Big-jaw, or Actinomycosis of Cattle bg og oe og ETA Rheumatism ; : Bae oe 2 417 “Thumps” in Pigs : ‘ beater ee Se eo ae eer AIS: Poisoning of Animals ‘ ee i . 419 Poisonous Foods eden de ky Sele pal ee WA ds sa Re: a tO Moldy Corn Fs xi ih Nea 'ae 3a? ane 424 Moldy Silage 2 el ‘ 426 Moldy Oats, Hay and Forage ....... wa a “42% Injury from Cotton-seed Meal. . 2... 2. ee . 427 Dirty Hay —“—sSS le ig ee og ASE Lead Poisoning in Cattle Soy ee eo Se os . 428 Other Poisons. Seve GEER AS des ees ee eee 429 CHAPTER XVIII Recipes AND Brigr ADVICE. ........... . 430-450 Doses of Medicine biter Use ke Ge 430 Common Prescriptions . . Wid ar wei gee 489 Brief Advice on the Canmbner: Diseases . .... 442 INDEX ; . 451 THE DISEASES OF ANIMALS CHAPTER I GENERAL ADVICE Domestic animals are kept under conditions that are more or less artificial.—conditions created by man and largely under his control. These conditions may be conducive to the good health and utility of ani- mals, or if neglected or improperly attended to they may prove injurious; and they are frequently the active agents in the production of disease. Wherever animals are gathered in large numbers there is an increased tendency toward contagious and infectious diseases, and extra precautions must be taken. It has been stated by some writers that the function or economy of disease-producing germs is to prevent an undue population of the earth. The fact that contagious diseases are most prevalent where numbers of animals are gathered, where hygienic and sanitary rules are not enforced, and where ignorance prevails, tends, at least, to enforce this conclusion, and to show that, in the main, “the fittest survive.” In the care of domestic animals, the old adage that “9 stitch in time saves nine” is applicable, for it is much easier and more economical to prevent diseases A 1) 2 The Diseases of Animals than to cure them. A man who understands the wants and needs of domestic animals, and who uses good judgment and care in dealing with them, is amply repaid in the profits and satisfaction returned. One of che first essentials to the successful care and handling of stock is suitable quarters. The quar- Fig. 2. The old-time barn and yard, in which shelter is inadequate and much of the manure is wasted ters should protect from the inclemencies of weather, both in winter and summer. They ‘should be light, dry and well ventilated. Dark, damp and _ poorly ventilated stables are hotbeds of disease. Light and an abundance of fresh air are essential to the main- tenance of health; and these can be so cheaply sup- plied that no exeuse can be offered for the lack of them, The Stables 3 Cleanliness is another very important factor, for the excrements of the animal body are not only injurious themselves, but they afford a breeding-place for bae- teria, and in the processes of decomposition give off noxious gases. The common practice of stabling ani- mals over manure-pits is not beneficial to the health of animals, however convenient it may be. Modern veterinary hygiene, both in theory and practice, fol- lows human hygiene very closely. In cases of doubt as regards hygienic or sanitary conditions, it is a good plan to put yourself in the animal’s place. Fig. 2, while interesting as a picture, shows some of the con- ditions to avoid. : The temperature of stables and barns is an important matter. Many modern stables are too warm; the old- time ones are likely to be too cold. Too high tempera- ture produces lassitude, reduces appetite and tends to breed germs. Too low temperature prevents the animal from making strong and continuous growth; the food energy that would otherwise go to the building up of the body is consumed in merely keeping warm. As a rule, a temperature of 45° to 50° is best for most animals in winter. FEEDING AND WATERING More animals are injured by overfeeding than by underfeeding. It is mistaken kindness to feed ani- mals merely because they will eat. Under ordinary conditions, animals should be given only sufficient food to keep them in fairly good flesh. Animals 4 The Diseases of Animals that are fat are susceptible to disease, do not breed readily, do not endure well in parturition, nor per- form ordinary labor easily. It is a somewhat common practice, when severe exertion is required of a horse, either at draft or on the road, to give him an extra heavy feed. Such practice is injurious to the animal, as he cannot do his best work when the digestive system is overloaded with food and thus taxed to its utmost capacity. Animals of which hard work is ex- pected Should be fed sparingly. Of course, horses or other animals that are continuously at hard labor should be given food enough to keep them in good physical condition. When warm, and especially when tired, an animal should be allowed to rest before receiving its usual food. The overtaxing of organs already tired tends to bring on diseases of the digestive system. It is usually a good plan to water the animal sparingly at first and: give a light feed of hay; then, when it is cool and rested, to give what water is desired and the customary feed of grain. Rubbing an animal with a brush, cloth, or wisp of straw. is an excellent method of resting and soothing it when it is tired and nervous. When animals are fed out of doors or in pens it is best to have them divided into small groups, or to have individual places for feeding each animal. The food should be so distributed that each animal has opportunity to get its fair share. When this is not done the strone and aggressive animals are likely to keep the weaker ones from getting their share of How to Feed 5 the food, while they themselves may eat more than is good for them. The same general principles hold in watering animals; every opportunity should be viven for the weaker ones to get sufficient water ; otherwise the “bosses,” after obtaining what water they wish, will often keep other animals away. Ex- perience has demonstrated that, in feeding calves or similar animals, they do much better when each is kept in a stall or stanchion by itself, at least during the feeding period. Calves herding together frequently suck one another’s ears or other parts of the body to such an extent that it interferes with their growth. In feeding young animals, cleanliness is of the greatest importance, especially for those that are fed milk or similar foods, which soon decompose. Not only should the food be sweet and pure, but the pails, troughs and other utensils should be kept scru- pulously clean. All food that the animal does not consume should be removed, and not allowed to de- compose. The food for young animals is often fed in a too concentrated form. Much better results can be secured by diluting the food and feeding more frequently. For horses at ordinary work, oats and_ bright timothy hay constitute an excellent diet. When horses are at hard labor, an addition of cornmeal is excellent to make up for the increased waste. For such horses, and for old animals whose teeth are not in good condition, better results are secured if the corn and oats are ground together. Animals should be fed regularly, and then watered 6 The Diseases of Animals before receiving grain. Bulky food, or that con- taining a large amount of indigestible substance, should be fed to horses sparingly. Cattle and sheep are not so easily injured by it, since they have greater digestive capacity. Musty or dusty hay fed to horses is likely to produce indigestion or heaves; and it is often a source of much trouble to other animals. Moldy and wormy food is often the cause of a serious brain disease among horses and mules; and moldy ensilage sometimes poisons cattle. Grasses or grain often contain ergot, a parasitic fungus, which shows itself among the healthy grains as long black kernels. This fungus most frequently attacks rye and related wild grains. The feeding of this “spurred rye” to animals is likely to produce in them a disease called ergotism. In this disease the blood-vessels of the extremities contract to such an extent that the feet of the afflicted animals frequently slough off, and sometimes, also, the tails. Corn-smut, so far as known, does not cause disease. If fed in large quantities, however, it is likely to produce indi- gestion. Underfeeding is a result of insufficient food, or of food that is not sufficiently nutritious and diges- tible. As a result of underfeeding, animals fall away in flesh, become “hidebound,” and the coat takes on a harsh and lusterless appearance, which is caused by the absorption of fat from beneath the skin. A sim- ilar appearance may also be produced by disease. In bringing underfed animals back into condition, care must be taken not to overfeed. It is best to increase Violent Changes in Food q A At AEP Fig. 3. Salting the sheep the rations very gradually, so that the digestive system may adapt itself to the change. Sudden and violent changes of food are always to be avoided if possible. When it is necessary to change the food, this should be done gradually, and the new food should not be taken on an empty stomach. If a horse is to be turned out to pasture, it is better that he have a feed of hay and grain before being let out, 8 The Diseases of Animals as then he is less likely to gorge himself on the new diet. Fresh grass usually acts very beneficially on an animal, improving the tone of the whole system. A variety of foods generally gives the best results. Animals at severe work rarely keep up in flesh if fed chiefly on green succulent food. Palatability of food,— that is, agreeable taste,—is also very important. Common salt is essential to practically all domestic animals, and it should be given to them frequently. If animals are allowed free access to salt they eat only what nature requires; but to animals not ac- customed to it, salt must be supplied very gradually, or they will eat too much at first and are likely to be overtaken by indigestion or even death. Sheep are sometimes poisoned by eating too much salt when they are not accustomed to it. Fine or rock salt may be used. Every good farmer knows that he must salt his sheep often (Fig. 8). “Bolting” the food, or gulping it rapidly and without sufficient mastication, is always injurious to animals. Some horses acquire this as a habit, and it is hard to overcome. One of the best methods of prevent- ing it is to spread the grain over a large area, as on the bottom of a manger, so that the horse cannot easily obtain large mouthfuls. There are iron feed- boxes, divided into small compartments, that accom- plish the same results. Smooth round stones, the size of a man’s fist, can be placed in the ordinary feed-box, so that the horse is required to nose them over in order to get the grain. Animals that bolt their food should be given ground feed. ASLO1OXO ANU SOD YOTTUT oLOYA ‘spIek e[GLIS pooy ‘pF ‘SLT sftd Suruewyey poos Jo ued y ‘¢ ‘BLT Value of Exercise 11 EXERCISE Exercise is important in maintaining the general health and vigor of animals. The practice of keep- ing milch cows closely confined the year round, while conducive to an_ inereased milk - flow, also Fig. 6. A good Yorkshire pig tends to weaken the animals’ constitutions, and pre- dispose them to disease, especially to tuberculosis. Exercise is necessary to keep the muscles, digestive system, skin and other organs of the body in a healthy condition. But animals that are being fattened for the market should have very little exercise, as ex- ertion consumes some of the food that should go 12 The Diseases of Aninutls Fig. 7. Young Galloway bulls toward the making of fat. Cow barns should be provided with ample yards, placed in such position that they are well protected from winds (Fig. 4). In severe weather, cows should be exercised under cover, as in a covered barnyard. PROTECTING THE ANIMALS Animals that have to be exposed to severe weather should be protected by means of blankets, especially when allowed to stand while sweating after severe ex- ertion. This is especially true of horses during cold weather. The best and most economical horse-blankets are the large, square, all-wool kinds. They should always be securely fastened on by means of straps or large blanket pins. During the summer, horses that are subjected to severe exertion, which causes them to sweat freely, can be protected from drafts and from The Care-taker 13 danger of taking cold by light thin blankets. com- monly known as “steaming blankets.” In localities where flies and mosquitoes abound, it is economy to protect working animals against them by the use of fly-nets; as the irritation of the animal,— to say nothing of the driver,—in fighting the pests, will be a serious loss of energy and nerve force. GIVE THE ANIMAL YOUR PERSONAL ATTENTION A sleek, well-fed, contented-looking animal is not often the result of accident. It is the product of good eare. The successful stockman is the one who likes his animals. He will sacrifice his own comfort rather than theirs. He will not stop with a half hour’s Fig. 8. Good Galloway cattle at pasture qoxrem roy Apvat af}1va yVq 6 “BL Fig. 10. Jerseys in good milk condition Fig. 11. Dorsets in good stock condition 16 The Diseases of Animals grooming of his horse if the animal needs an hour’s. “What do you give your horse to make him look so fine?” the traveler asked of the English farm lad. “Lot’s 0’ rubbin’, sir,” was the reply. The best of food, the fanciest stables, the most expensive implements and equipments, will not make up for the lack of good loving care. These are more than medicine or breed. Do not wait until your animal runs down before you inquire what ails him. It is better not to let him run down. Many persons do not know what a good animal is, even though they raise animals all their lives. Sleek, plump, close-haired, clean, docile, contented,— these are some of the words that we apply to animals that are well cared for. Scrawny, rough, restless, wild, dirty,— these are attributes of those that are poorly eared for. The accompanying pictures (Figs. 3-11) show good farm animals. Poor farm animals are so common that pictures of them are not needed. CHAPTER 11 THE CARE OF ANIMALS IN STABLES AND YARDS AsIDE from the necessity of stabling animals to protect them against inclement weather, it is often desirable to confine them for other reasons. Stabled animals are usually more gentle to handle, and their coats are improved in texture and appearance. The following brief remarks on stabling, however, are made from the veterinarian’s point of view. In the construction of stables, strength, simplicity and plainness should be emphasized. Under these condi- tions, the stables may be easily cleaned and disinfected. The animals should stand, if possible, with their heads toward the center of the building. This arrange- ment of stalls provides better ventilation and also better lighting, as the light should be admitted, whenever possible, from behind the animals. In man and beast, sight is impaired by having to face a glare of light. With the larger animals, such as horses and cattle, it is best to confine them in separate stalls, where they can not get their heads together. There should be a sufficiently strong partition between to keep them from turning crosswise and interfering with their neighbors. Animals that are not properly separated often fall into the habit of fighting each other. The feed-boxes should be so arranged that each animal is fed sepa- B (17) 18 The Diseases of Animals rately, and is prevented from consuming another’s food. Such an arrangement insures each animal a given amount of food, and it tends to prevent the spread of dangerous undetected diseases, as tuberculosis among cattle and glanders among horses. The front of the stalls should be built no higher than is necessary to keep the animal properly confined and to place the food within reach. When the animal is standing the expired air will pass out over the front of his stall. HORSE STALLS The size of stalls for horses must depend somewhat on the size of the animal to be confined. For ordi- nary horses the stalls should be at least five feet wide; five and a half to six feet is better. They should be nine and a half feet long. For flooring, hard wood two-ineh planks, well matched, are excellent. Some hard woods are too slippery, however, and hemlock may be used. The floor of the stall should have a very gentle slope to the rear, the plank running lengthwise of the stall. It is more convenient to have the flooring of the passageway behind the animals at right angles to that of the stall, as it is easier to clean. The partition separating the stalls should be strongly made, well set and smoothly ceiled on each side. The rear of the partition should be well rounded. The feed-box and manger may be of iron or hard wood; if of the latter, the edges should be protected with strips of iron securely screwed down to prevent the animals from gnawing the wood. Horse Stalls and Cow Stalls 19 Horses are best confined:in stalls by means of stout leather halters, which can be tied to the railing or to any suitable place on the manger or side of partition. The tie should be secure and short enough to preveut the possibility of a horse getting a foot over the halter stale. An excellent method is to pass the halter stale through a rope or ring or over a pulley, and attach a light weight to the other end; this always keeps the rope taut enough to prevent accidents of this nature. In some cases, where animals do not stand well when tied by the head, they can be confined in the stall by a chain fastened across behind the animal; this is also a good method of preventing the animal from backing and lying down in the manure. When room ean be afforded, box stalls are desirable. These may be as much as twelve feet square, although ten by ten is a good size. In all horse stalls, provide high walls or partitions for kicking animals,—three and a half to four feet high. COW STABLES The general arrangement of a cow stable, from a veterinarian’s point of view, should be similar to that of a horse stable, except that cement can be used more satisfactorily for feed-troughs, passageways and gut- ter behind the cows. Cement passageways for horse stables should be roughened, to prevent horses slip- ping, as the continuous wear from steel shoes is liable to make the cement smooth. The length of stalls for cattle must depend on the 20 The Diseases of Animals size of the animals. For small cows of the dairy type the length of stall from the manger to edge of gutter should be from fifty-six to sixty-two inches; and for the larger beef breeds seventy-two inches. The floor- ing of the stalls should be planks, well matched, run- ning lengthwise of the stall and having a slight incline to the rear. The gutter behind the stall should be from four to five inches deep and about fifteen inches wide. The edge of the gutter next to the stall should be vertical; otherwise animals are lable to ship when stepping on it. The width of the stall should vary, according to the size of the animal, from thirty-eight to forty-five inches. There should be a partition extending far enough back to keep the animals from fighting each other and from turning crosswise of the stall so as to interfere with the neighboring animal or to soil the adjoining stall. In the narrower stalls for mileh cows, it is an excel- lent plan to have the partition hinged near the cow’s shoulder, so that the rear portion can be unhooked and swung aside or raised to give more room for the milker. The manger should be as low as convenient, and should be so divided that the food of each animal is kept in a separate compartment. In the stabling of cows, each animal should have her own stall assigned to her, and she should not be shifted from place to place. Cows are fastened in stalls in various ways. Some of the swinging or chain stanchions give good satisfac- tion. An excellent method is merely to stretch a chain across the rear of the stall. This is a cheap and effi- Cleaning of Horses: 21 cient method if the stall is built of proper size; and it keeps the animal from being soiled by the droppings. Another economical and satisfactory method is to use a neck-strap to which a ring is fastened; through this ring a chain is passed from one side of the manger to the other, crosswise of the stall, and held in place by a slipping bolt; by means of a rope attached to this bolt and fastened to a lever, all the animals in a row can be released at once. The drainage from stables, especially from cow sta- bles, should be kept on the surface, as underground drains clog easily with the coarse material that is used for feed and bedding. Preferably, there should be no drainage of urine, for it should be absorbed in bedding for use as a fertilizer. THE GROOMING OF HORSES In most respects the skin of animals resembles that of man, except that it is more densely covered with hair for protection. This affords a place for the lodgment of dust and dirt, which is frequently retained by coming in contact with the perspiration. Dirt frequently collects upon the skin and coat of animals from lying down, either in the stable or out of doors. In order to improve the appearance of an animal, and to contribute to its general health, the skin should be cleaned frequently. This is best done by means of a good bristle brush. In addition to this tool, a metal comb is required for the purpose of loosening such hard material as cannot be removed 22 The Diseases of Animals lo with a brush. Combs, however, should be used lightly and only for the purpose of removing dirt. The es- sential part of grooming is to apply the bristle brush vigorously. This removes the accumulated dirt and dried perspiration, gives the coat a glossy appearance, and prevents various parasitic diseases of the skin. If possible, grooming should be performed after ani- mals have had exercise, as the perspiration produced by the exercise is then removed instead of being allowed to dry on the skin. This is especially important when the skin and coat are soiled with mud or water. After the coarse dirt is loosened by means of a curry-comb, it should be completely removed with the brush: and, after brushing, the loose dust can be removed from the outside of the coat by wiping with a slightly dampened cloth. The manes and tails of horses can be cleaned by using a very coarse comb and then thoroughly brush- ing with a mane brush, working on a small part of the mane or tail at a time. Curry-combs and finer combs should not be used upon the mane or tail, as they pull out and break off too many hairs. The mane and tail should be washed once in two weeks, eare being taken to clean the skin thoroughly by using warm soft water and some mild soap; after washing the hair, brushing it out straight and dry- ing it, a little bland oil or vaseline should be worked into the skin to keep it soft. In warm weather, when horses are brought in wet with perspiration, it is often a good plan to rinse them off thoroughly with water from which the chill Clipping Horses 23 has been removed. Then with a slightly curved stick, commonly called a scraper, the dirt and sweat can be thoroughly removed. The skin should then be rubbed dry with rubbing cloths and the hair brushed down straight. THE CLIPPING OF HORSES When horses are kept in comfortable stables dur- ing the winter, and are well protected against cold by stable blankets while in the barn and by street blankets while standing out, there is no serious ob- jection to clipping them. It improves the appear- ance of the horse and his coat is more easily kept clean. Horses with long, thick coats should be clipped, as they usually sweat easily and their coats hold the moisture, so that if the animal is allowed to stand it is liable to take cold. If horses are clipped twice a year, the operation should be performed the first time soon after the hair has grown out in the fall. This allows them to become accustomed to the change be- fore cold weather sets in, and it also allows for some growth of hair before winter. They should be clipped the second time in early spring, as soon as the weather begins to get warm and before the winter coats begin to be shed. When horses cannot be protected from the cold, either in the stable or outside, they should not be clipped in the fall; but the long hair on the legs, as far as the knee and hock, may be removed. This is particularly important in horses that are required to work in mud, as the legs are much more readily 24 The Diseases of Animals kept clean, and diseases such as scratches, mud fever and others, all caused by irritation from mud or dirt, are prevented. THE CARE OF THE FEET [he feet of animals should be looked after fre- quently and all accumulations of dirt removed. This is especially important with horses. Their feet should be examined and seraped out in the morning before being sent to work and at night after returning, as it is very common to find foreign bodies, such as nails and stones, either driven into the wall or sole of the foot, or collected in the elefts of the frog or between the bars and the frog. If the hoofs show a tendency to’ dry out and become hard and brittle they should be softened with some good oil or hoof ointment. If they are ragged and tend to split, they should be rasped on the edges and trimmed un- til smooth. When animals are closely confined in stalls, especially on bedding, the hoofs grow out long; and if not treated they will deform the animal and make traveling extremely difficult. This condition is often observed in sheep, cattle and horses when they do not get exercise enough to wear away the horn as rapidly as it grows. The hoofs of such animals can be trimmed by paring them with a knife, or, better, in most cases, by using hoof-paring instru- ments which are made for farriers. These resemble in construction a pair of pincers. In paring hoofs, care should be exercised not to eut them too short, Bedding for Animals 25 as the animal is likely to become footsore. The hoofs of colts should be examined often to see that they are growing symmetrically. It sometimes happens that a piece is worn or broken from one side of a hoof, and this throws the weight of the body in such a way as to bring a strain upon the joints, that causes deformity or disease. In trimming hoofs, the outside of the wall should not be rasped or cut away, as it naturally forms a protective coating over the hoof. BEDDING Animals that are confined in stables through the night should be well bedded with some material that will not only make a comfortable place for them to lie on, but that will keep the animal clean and dry. If possible, a bedding should be used that will absorb moisture and help to keep the quarters clean. Bedding should be free from chemical substances or irritants that are liable to injure the skin or feet, or that would be injurious to the animal if eaten. Among good substances used for bedding are straw, shavings, coarse hay, sawdust, peat moss and tan bark. The bedding in the stall should be spread so that most of it is fairly well forward, as there is a tendency for it to work backward with the movements of the animal. Heaping the bedding in the center of the stall should be avoided, in order to prevent the animals from getting cast. Rye-straw makes excellent bedding. Jt is bright and clean, is easily handled and wears well. The bedding should be removed from stalls in 26 The Diseases of Animals the morning, and, if possible, spread in the sun where it can be thoroughly dried; this not only purifies the bedding but puts it out of the way while the stall is being thoroughly scraped and aired. CARE OF SWINE In the rearing of swine it is important that they be not closely confined, except when they are being fattened for the market. If possible they should be allowed a large range, with much green food. Swine belong to the class which is known as omnivorous animals, because of the great variety of food, both animal and vegetable, that they eat. As a rule, swine do not thrive well when closely confined, or when fed largely on one kind of food. They may inerease in flesh, but their systems seem weakened and predisposed to disease. Swine should be changed frequently from pasture to pasture, and the runs should be so arranged that the animals have plenty of clean water to drink. In sum- mer they should have some protection against the sun. In winter it is necessary to give them protection against cold, as the hair and bristles are a very poor protection. Tf allowed access to straw-stacks swine will burrow into the straw and secure protection in this way, but such stacks should be destroyed at the end of each season. It is still better if the straw is changed once or twice during the winter. When special pens are built for swine. they should be so arranged that they can be easily and thoroughly cleaned. Cement. answers General Care of Sivine 27 well for a part of the floor, but in those parts in which the animals sleep and in which young pigs are kept, a well-matched plank floor is better. Young pigs that are kept on cement floors are likely to suffer from lameness and enlarged joints. When a large number of swine are kept, it is best to have them divided into separate lots, and not to confine very many together. They should be given a variety of food and allowed access to fresh, clean earth. There is often noticed in swine a disposition to eat dirt; this indicates a craving for mineral sub- stances. This appetite can usually be satisfied by a mixture of one part of common salt, two parts of air- slaked lime, one part of sulfur, two parts of charcoal, and one part of wood-ashes. This mixture should be placed where the swine can get it freely. In case garbage or swill from cities is used, care must be taken in its feeding, as such material is likely to con- tain substances that are poisonous. Garbage or animal food that is badly decomposed is also likely to contain poisons. Swine need clean wholesome food, as well as other animals. In case swine are confined in permanent buildings during the winter, the quarters should be thoroughly cleaned, disinfected and whitewashed as soon as the animals can be turned out to pasture. It is often an excellent plan to have some rubbing- posts in the yards where swine are kept. Old cloths tied to these posts and kept saturated with erude petro- leum furnish excellent means for ridding the hogs of lice. 28 The Diseases of Animals YARDS AND CORRALS Yards and corrals in which animals have been con- fined for feeding or other purposes should be thoroughly renovated at least once a year, preferably in the spring. All manure, litter and rubbish should be removed, and puddles should be drained or filled. If any loose earth remains it should be carried away; but if this is not possible it can be stirred several times by means of a harrow or hoe, to allow the sun free aecess to it. If any sheds exist, they should be thoroughly cleaned and a eoat of whitewash or other disinfectant applied. Allow- ing the yards and corrals to remain unoceupied through the summer is an excellent method of disinfecting. Weeds should not be allowed to grow in the yard. QUARANTINE Quarantining is the separating and isolating from healthy animals of those suffering from a contagious or infections disease. Whenever there is suspicion of a contagious disease the animals should be quarantined until the nature of the disease is known. Healthy animals should be removed from those that are sus- pected, and taken to quarters where no sick animals have been confined. This is better than to remove the sick animals from the healthy, leaving the latter in infected quarters or on ground that may have hecome infected from the excretions of the sick animals. Care should further be taken that the healthy ani- mals are not exposed by means of infected food, water- Quarantine 29 ing places or feed-boxes. The sick animals should be separated from the others by some distance, and their lo- cation be such that the drainage is away from the healthy animals. Affected animals should not be allowed access to streams, as the infection may be carried by the water. Some diseases are carried from sick to healthy ani- mals by means of flies, lice, ticks, and possibly other insects. Dogs, foxes, buzzards and other animals that feed on flesh are liable to convey diseases from place to place. Persons are very liable to earry the infection on their feet after walking on infected ground or other material. When sick animals are confined in buildings it is possible to protect them from insects, so that this source of danger is eliminated. Should other cases of the disease occur among animals that have been ‘removed from the sick, the healthy animals should again be separated from the sick and removed to other non-infected quarters. Harness, saddles, blankets, utensils, ete., that have been used on or about animals, should be boiled or otherwise disinfected before being used about healthy animals. When animals have been quarantined, a separate attendant should be secured to care for the sick ones. If this is not possible, the attendant should care for the healthy animals first, and after caring for the sick should provide himself with a change of clothing. In handling contagious diseases, precautions should always be taken that the attendant does not himself become infected; for some diseases, among them glanders, an- thrax, probably tuberculosis and some parasitic diseases, may be communicated from animals to man. CHAPTER III THE CARE OF PETS THE care of pet animals must depend very largely on the species of animal, and on the location as to whether in the city or country. In the country pets are very much more easily cared for and much less lable to disease and injury, on account of the freedom, variety of food, exercise and free surroundings. In choosing pets, it is good policy to select pure-bred animals of excellent individuality, as it costs no more to keep a good individual than a poor one, and the in- creased satisfaction that results is ample compensation. In choosing pets two points should be taken into con- sideration: (1) Docility, as it is much easier to care for quiet animals than for uneasy and nervous ones; (2) as a rule, medium-sized, short-haired animals are most easily cared for. In some cases, as in Angora cats, the long hair is a leading attraction; and these instances, therefore, are exceptions to the rule. If possible, one should select pets that can be kept for use as well as for pleasure. In those animals in which the beauty and interest he largely in the coat, extra care and precaution must be taken to keep it in prime condition. Light-cclored animals require more attention than dark ones. In caring for pets it is important that the natural (30) Food for Pet Animals 31 tastes of the animal be taken into consideration; con- sider whether it is herbivorous, living largely upon grass and grain, or carnivorous, subsisting chiefly on meat and other animal foods. Yet domesticated ani- mals are usually not exclusively restricted to one diet, but will eat a variety of both animal and vegetable foods. Such variety, if palatable, is important in main- taining health and vigor. A food that is suited to nearly all pets, since it fur- nishes all the necessary elements for their growth, is milk. It should be fed while sweet and preferably while it is warm from the cow. Warm milk seems to possess unknown health-giving qualities that dis- appear after it has been kept a half day or more. In feeding milk to pets, care should be taken not to allow them to have too much at a time. One of the greatest dangers to pet animals is overfeeding. They should be allowed small quantities frequently in order to keep them in a thrifty, vigorous condition. DOGS Among animals that are kept for pets as well as for use, the dog undoubtedly holds the first place. Upon farms where stock is kept, a well-broken collie dog is an unfailing source of help and satisfaction, while an unbroken dog is a continual nuisance. In handling stock with a dog, it is important that the dog be well trained, and that great care be exercised while the animals are getting used to heing managed by him. When these two conditions are fulfilled it is 32 The Diseases of Animals surprising how easily and economically stock can be taken care of. Dogs are usually selected on account of their beauty, size, markings, intelligence, or some individuality that may appeal to the faney of the chooser. In deciding this matter the question of male or female is often important. If intended for a house dog, bitches are frequently preferred, as they are generally more tidy in habits and often more easily trained than male dogs. The disadvantage, provided one does not. wish to breed them, is the period of heat which occurs about onee in six months, beginning usually when the bitch is about one year old. During. this period there is a tendency for the bitch to leave home and for other dogs to gather and remain about the premises. When bitches are kept without spaying, and it is not desired to breed them, during the period of heat they should be completely isolated at a considerable distance from other dogs, preferably in such a place as a barn loft or cellar, where the dogs will not be attracted. They should be kept isolated for at least ten days, or during the whole period of heat. If the bitch is not to be kept for breeding purposes it is usually best to have her spayed, preferably before she has come in heat at all. Spayed bitches make excellent house dogs, the only objection to them being that they take on fat readily. In some communities unspayed bitches are taxed heavily in comparison with male dogs, but a certificate showing that the bitch has been spayed usually brings them under the same tax rates as other dogs. Care of Puppies 33 If one wishes a dog to break or train for a special purpose, a young animal should be chosen. There is, of course, an increased danger of loss from death, especially if the puppy has not yet had dog distemper; but it is a great advantage to get acquainted with the puppy, and to begin to break him while he is still tractable. Puppies, as a rule, are weaned at four to six weeks old. After weaning they should be fed fresh milk diluted one-third with boiled water. In this milk dry crusts or a small amount of dog-cake may be soaked. A piece of bread or dog-cake may also be given dry for them to gnaw on, but it should not be supplied in small pieces that they can swallow whole. Long- haired puppies and kittens get the hair about the mouth dirty and matted with the food they eat. The parts should be carefully washed, else the skin may become sore. If possible to avoid it, puppies should not be washed all over until they are half grown. When it is necessary to wash puppies or kittens, use warm water and apply it with a sponge or soft rag. Avoid immersing the animal in a cold bath, as it is likely to cause a nervous shock. After long- haired puppies are six to eight months old, they may be washed, using soft, warm water and a mild soap. Some of the tar soaps are excellent, as they have a soothing action on the skin, and have a tendency to free the dog of vermin. After washing, the soap can be rinsed out and the hair dried by rubbing with cloths or by allowing the animal to roll in clean straw in a sunny place. It is important that puppies and their quarters be Cc 34 The Diseases of Animals kept clean, in order to avoid injury from parasites. Young dogs should be kept in roomy quarters where they have access to a sunny yard, and a dry place in which to sleep. It is best to keep but a few together in one yard. Puppies are active animals and need much exercise. It is a good plan to take them out- side their quarters once or twice daily for exercise, but. they should not be taken very far, especially when young. Dogs that are closely confined are likely to lack vigor and suffer from indigestion, diseases of the joints, and the like. Dogs that run wild are more difficult to break and handle. When puppies get to be two months old a little meat may be given. It should not be supplied in large pieces, for they are likely to swallow it without proper mastication. Large bones compel the dog to gnaw the meat off and are much better. When several puppies are fed together, care should be exercised that the stronger ones do not get more than their share. Again, in feeding puppies in company with old dogs, see that the puppies secure their share of the food, and that they are not bitten or injured by older ones. It is much better to feed each animal by itself, so that it will not be disturbed by others. When only a few dogs are kept, scraps from the table furnish a variety of excellent food, especially when a small amount of meat-gravy or drippings is added. When there are many dogs, well-baked corn- bread that has been slightly salted is an excellent and economical addition to the diet. Dogs always should be allowed all the clean water they want to drink. Training Dogs 35 THE BREAKING OF DOGS FOR FARM PURPOSES The essentials to a good trainer of dogs are: (1) An interest in the animal; (2) a knowledge of what is required; (3) good judgment and patience. It is an excellent plan to have an older and well-broken dog to assist in the training, as dogs are imitative. The puppy quickly learns what is wanted by association with the older dog. In breaking dogs to handle stock, it is also a great advantage to have stock that is used to being driven by a dog, upon which to break the puppy. Stock that is not used to a dog is often easily frightened, or it may fight the dog. If a puppy is hurt or gets into a notion of chasing stock, bad habits may be formed that are difficult to overcome. The first essential in breaking a dog for any purpose is to teach him to mind. Dogs are intelligent and affectionate animals, and are usually gratified to do the will of the master. If possible, an animal should be broken to mind without fear of punishment. When a dog obeys and does the required task, he should be rewarded by a word, caress or bit of something to eat. When it is necessary to punish a dog for disobedience, the trainer should be sure that the animal understands what is wanted, and if he refuses to do the task he should be punished judiciously — the punishment de- pending largely on the uature and disposition of the dog. Dogs of a sensitive organization must be pun- ished cautiously; it is usually a good plan to shut the dog up alone after punishment and allow him to think it ever. A mistake that is commonly made by novices 36 The Diseases of Animals in training dogs or other animals is to-attempt to teach too much at once.