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Bird-hunting through wild Europe /

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BIRD-HUNTING
THROUGH WILD EUROPE

GRIFFON VULTURE AT NEST (GYPS FULVUS)

Frontispiece

BIRD-HUNTING

‘THROUGH WILD EUROPE

BY

R. B. LODGE

AUTHOR OF
‘PICTURES OF BIRD-LIFE,’ ‘THE BIRDS AND THEIR STORY,’ ‘THE STORY OF
HEDGEROW AND POND,’ § ONE HUNDRED PHOTOS OF BRITISH BIRDS”

With 124 Illustrations, from Photographs by the Author

NEW YORK
D. APPLETON AND COMPANY
1909

INTRODUCTION

In the opening chapter of my Pictures of Bird-
Life, written in 1903, I indicated roughly, in the
following words, what a splendid field there was for
the photographic ornithologist in various parts of
Europe :

‘A most interesting expedition could be made now
in pursuit of the Eagles and Vultures of Southern
Europe. In Spain alone there are still to be found,
in the big pine-woods and rugged sierras, five
different kinds of Eagles and four kinds of Vultures.
Some of these are yearly decreasing in numbers,
and in a few more years will be extremely rare.
Hungary and the country round the Danube is also
particularly rich in raptorial and marsh birds.’

I had already visited the marismas of the
Guadalquivir once, Denmark once, and Holland
three times; and had succeeded in photographing
many interesting species at home: for example, the
Spoonbill, the Purple Heron, Little Egret, Buff-

backed Heron, Glossy Ibis, Black Tern, White
5

6 INTRODUCTION

Stork, Grey Shrike, and other interesting forms of
bird life which it would be hopeless to expect to find
in this country. I had also seen many others which
had succeeded in evading the near approach of my
camera. But /appetet vient en mangeant, and I was
bitten with an insatiable longing to add more rarities
to my list of photographic subjects. Lack of means,
however, was an effectual bar to any further pursuit
on my part, especially in those countries which |
was most anxious to visit. However, by good
fortune, I have in quite an unexpected way been
enabled to make three most interesting expeditions
to some of the least known and most out-of-the-
way parts of Southern and Eastern Europe in the
search for rare members of the bird world, and the
present volume deals with my experiences and
adventures.

To me these expeditions after birds, in spite of
the difficulties and hardships inseparable from
working in the inaccessible marshes and mountain
solitudes, where alone one may expect to have any
success, have been most intensely enjoyable. Many
rare birds, quite new to me, have been found and
photographed at close quarters, many strange
countries and strange people have been visited,
and many friendships made. Fresh experience
has also been gained in other directions, for while
previous expeditions at home and abroad have been

INTRODUCTION 7

made with camera only, photographs of wild and
living birds in the native haunts being the sole object,
in these last journeyings bird collecting, as well as
egg collecting has been included in the programme.

The inhabitants of these wild countries attach so
little importance to birds that they find it difficult
to understand why any sane person should take the
trouble and go to the expense of travelling about to
photograph them or even to shoot them. No doubt
in many cases they look upon the search for birds
as merely an excuse, a blind to hide some reason of
more importance, political or otherwise; especially
when they see an imposing cavalcade of from half a
dozen to a dozen or more mounted men. But
perhaps the proverbial madness of all Englishmen
accounts for much that is otherwise unaccountable in
their eyes; and I must say that J have met with
much genuine kindness and hospitality from the
peasants and fishermen of the most remote regions,
many of whom had never seen an Englishman before
in the whole course of their lives. Few of them,
indeed, had the slightest idea where England was
situated, though they had a dim sort of idea that
there was such a country somewhere.

My most grateful thanks are due to Baron
Bornemisza, late vice-Consul for Austria-Hungary,
at Durazzo in Albania, for the most generous
hospitality and assistance during two seasons spent

8 INTRODUCTION

in that country; also to Herr Otto Hermann, and
the ornithologists at the Bureau of Ornithology at
Budapest, and Dr. von Madarasz of the Museum
of that city, Herr Othmar Reiser of the Sarajevo
Museum, Dr. Antipa of Buccarest, Dr. Jonescu and
M. Panaitescu of Tulcea, Roumania ; also to Messrs.
J. and A. McLean Marshall, and many others, some
of whom I forbear to name at their own request, and
others because their hospitality has, I fear, been
somewhat overtaxed of late years by wandering
ornithologists, and I am unwilling to abuse their
kindness by running the risk of adding to their
number.

R. B. Lopce.
June, 1908.

CHAP.

XIII.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION. ; : i : ; : 5
BIRDS-NESTING IN SPAIN. ‘ : 2 a Bg
BIRDS’-NESTING IN SPAIN (continued) . ‘ . 41
THE JOURNEY OUT TO BOSNIA AND MONTENEGRO. 60
THE QUEST OF THE PELICAN—-MONTENEGRO a
THE QUEST OF THE PELICAN—ALBANIA P . 85
AN INTERLUDE WITH EAGLES AND STORKS . » 106

THE QUEST OF THE PELICAN—ALBANIA (continued) 114

THE SEARCH AFTER THE GREAT WHITE HERON. 137
BIRDS’-NESTING IN HUNGARY : . : . 179
THE BALKANS REVISITED 3 ‘ : : . 196
THE BALKANS REVISITED—ALBANIA —. ‘ . 205
THE BALKANS REVISITED—MONTENEGRO : . 242
COLLECTING IN THE DOBRUDSCHA : : . 259
COLLECTING IN THE DOBRUDSCHA (continued) . 282

APPENDIX. LIST OF SPECIES MET WITH, AND
LOCALITIES . . . . . . - 322

INDEX . ; ' i : j i . 329

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

To face page

GRIFFON VULTURE AT NEST .
FERNANDO FLORES AND HIS WIFE
INTERIOR OF SPANISH CHOZA A
FILLING THEIR CANTAROS . .
NEST OF CALANDRA LARK . .
GRIFFON VULTURE ‘ . .
NEST OF EGYPTIAN VULTURE

NEST OF BONELLI’S EAGLE . .
YOUNG GRIFFON VULTURE IN NEST
IN THE ALCAZAR GARDENS, SEVILLE
SPANISH CHOZAS . .
THE EDGE OF THE SAND DUNES
NEST OF BLACK KITE . .
NEST OF SHORT-TOED EAGLE .
BOOTED EAGLE AT NEST . .
SOUTHERN GREY SHRIKE . .
CROSSING THE DRIED-UP MARISMA
NEST OF BOOTED EAGLE . .
NEST OF ORPHEAN WARBLER .

NEST OF WESTERN OLIVACEOUS WARBLER

MOORISH DOORWAY, ALCAZAR, SEVILLE

SPALATO ORANGE-BOATS . .
GRAVOSA . . . . .
CATTARO . ‘ . . .
OLD VENETIAN CASTLE, DULCIGNO
THE QUAY, SEBENICO, DALMATIA
SPALATO . . . . .
PACK-HORSES ‘ .

MONTENEGRIN FERRY . .
PELICANS SWIMMING . . .
PELICANS . . . . 3
STREET SCENE, DULCIGNO . .
MELITZA—A MONTENEGRIN GIRL.
DULCIGNO . . . . .
STREET SCENE, DULCIGNO . ‘

Frontispiece

TURKISH MOSQUE AND RUINED CASTLE, DULCIGNO .

10

'
17
17

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

II

To face page
LITTLE BITTERN ‘i 84
JACKDAWS A ‘ 97
ARMED ALBANIAN CONGREGATION aT OPEN-AIR "SERVICE . Ior
MOHAMMEDAN FUNERAL . » Ts
THE AUTHOR IN ALBANIAN COSTUME. é 125
EMBARKING WITH THE FISHERMEN . ‘ ; 127
PELICANS . ! ; ‘ 127
PELICANS ON THEIR NESTS : ‘i : . 129
NEST OF PELICANS . ‘ : . 31
OUR PARTY PREPARING TO CROSS AN ALBANIAN RIVER 133
LANDING THE PELICAN . ‘ : . ee P33
ALBANIAN FERRY. ‘ . ; ‘ 134
OUR CAMP IN THE FOREST : ‘ : . . 134
FIREWOOD PONIES . . : 146
ATTITUDES OF GREAT WHITE HERON WHEN FEEDING 161
GREAT WHITE HERON AND LITTLE EGRET . 163
GREAT WHITE HERON FEEDING. 3 ‘ : : 163
ALBANIAN FAMILY . f ‘i : * F 168
HANGING NEST OF PENDULINE TIT : 170
YOUNG GREAT WHITE HERONS . : : : 7 - 172
GREAT WHITE HERON AND YOUNG . : : . a TA
ON VALENCZE SEE . j ‘ : : ) 179
NEST OF SPOTTED CRAKE . 181
NEST OF BLACK-NECKED GREBE 183
NEST OF WHITE-WINGED BLACK TERN 185
NEST OF LITTLE BITTERN . 187
NEST OF LITTLE BITTERN . : F F ; 188
LITTLE BITTERN 3 ‘ : : i : é 189
NEST OF WATER-RAIL 190
NEST OF LITTLE CRAKE . ‘ . IQI
WHITE-WINGED BLACK TERN ON NEST ‘ i . 92
NEST OF SPOTTED CRAKE . ; ‘ : ‘i 5 . 193
NEST OF GOLDEN ORIOLE. ‘ ‘ : 194
DALMATIAN PELICANS : ‘ 5 ‘ . 208
LITTLE BITTERN ; ‘ j ‘ : 212
PELICAN ON NEST . : 3 : ‘ . a 212
PELICANS AT THEIR NESTS : : ; 215
PELICANS AT THEIR TOILET. 3 3 217
EGYPTIAN VULTURES AND RAVENS 220
UNEXPECTED VISITORS IN THE FOREST 223
‘ONE OF THEM BROUGHT BACK MY HORSE’ ; 223
SEA EAGLE RETURNING TO ITS NEST : 3 . 225

NEST OF SEA EAGLE. . . . . .

12 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

To face page
RAVEN AND MAGPIE ON A CARCASE . 5 : ‘ . 227
KITES ON A CARCASE ; F D é ‘ a . 229
SEA EAGLE ON A CARCASE i A j : ‘ . 231
MY ALBANIAN HOSTS - . : ‘ ‘ ‘ 3 233
THEIR WOMENKIND AND CHILDREN . . ‘ 3 » 233
ALBANIAN INTERIOR F . : F : . 235
PLOUGHING WITH OXEN . . ; : é 3 - 236
PLOUGHING WITH BUFFALOES . 4 3 : 5 . 236
STREET SCENE . ‘ ‘ ; : : : ‘ . 240
HEAD OF A MOHAMMEDAN MONASTERY . z F . 240
L’ALBERGO ATHANASE, DULCIGNO : ‘ : - 245
ALBANIANS . ; A ; : ‘ ‘ ‘ . 246
MOHAMMEDAN WOMEN 2 F : ; 3 . 249
STREET SCENE . : : ; . : ‘ F . 249
IN THE FISH-MARKET ‘ Z 3 : , , . 250
MOHAMMEDAN DECK PASSENGERS : ‘ . p . 250
YOUNG GREAT WHITE HERONS . ‘ ‘ ‘ , - 253
YOUNG GREAT WHITE HERONS . ‘ : ‘ ‘ + 255
NEST OF GREAT WHITE HERON ‘i ‘ : ° » 255
GREAT WHITE HERON ‘ : 3 ‘ ‘i - 256
FISH DEPOTS ON THE DANUBE . : 3 ‘ é . 264
WHITE STORKS . . ‘ ‘ ‘ : : . 269
FISH-TRAP ON THE DANUBE. j ‘ ‘ ; . 274
FISH-BOATS OFF THE QUAY, BUDAPEST é . ‘ - 274
SEA EAGLE ‘ ‘ : 5 5 ‘4 - ‘ . 280
WHITE STORK ON NEST . ‘ . ‘ A ‘ - 286
CARRYING BACK THE BLACK VULTURE ‘ ‘ ‘i . 291
IMPERIAL EAGLE RETURNING TO NEST. ‘ : + 295
ROUMANIAN SHEPHERDS’ HUT . F é i : . 297
A MEAL OF POLENTA : : A ‘ - : . 297
NEST OF ORTOLAN BUNTING . . : F ‘ . 300
NEST OF PIGMY CORMORANT . ‘ : , : + 305
NESTS OF NIGHT HERON AND SQUACCO HERON : + 307
SQUACCO HERON é , i é ; : ; - 308
HOBBY : : ‘ . ‘ : : : + 308
SCENERY NEAR THE IRON GATES. . 5 . + 310
SUNSET IN THE BALTA . , : A : - + 310
SERVIAN VILLAGE ON DANUBE . i ; j . . 314
BULGARIAN VILLAGE . : . : : ‘ - 314
SPALAX TYPHLUS - d ‘ : , is é > 317
SCENERY NEAR THE IRON GATE ‘ 5 ‘ : - 319
LOADING MAIZE LIGHTERS AT RUSTCHUK . : ‘ * 320

HUNGARIAN VILLAGE ON THE DANUBE . . ei + 320

BIRD-HUNTING
THROUGH WILD EUROPE

]

BIRDS -NESTING IN SPAIN

Earty in March 1905, my friend M and
myself left London bound for Andalusia, intent on
seeing and photographing as many as possible of
the Eagles, Vultures, and marsh birds of that prolific
region.

Nowadays, according to the latest scientific
classification, the Eagles and birds of prey have
been deposed from the place which they long held at
the head of the bird world. However, in popular
estimation they still hold the imagination as kings
and princes of the air, in spite of occasional
questionable proceedings on the part of some of
them.

Though the Golden Eagle is not uncommon even
now in some parts of Scotland, the sight of the king

of birds is not by any means a matter of daily
13

14 BIRD-HUNTING

experience ; while the White-tailed Eagle is now
but seldom met with.

It would therefore be better for any one who is
desirous of having something more than a chance
sight of a passing Eagle to travel to a land where
the preservation of game is not so rigorously carried
out, where the noblest forms of animal life are not
yet mercilessly exterminated as vermin, and where
the balance of Nature is the only factor in the
abundance or scarcity of any species.

Luckily, it is not necessary to travel very far.
Twenty-four hours will bring one to the Spanish
frontier, and in Spain the present fauna is something
like that which existed in England some four or five
hundred years ago. There the wolves still take toll
of the flocks and herds during the winter, and, not
content with the sheep, occasionally devour the
shepherd as well. The Brown Bear and the Lynx
still exist in certain parts, the former in the north,
the latter, with the Wild Boar, in the tangled thickets
and wooded solitudes of the south. The Eagles
breed in security in the rocky heights of the sierras,
and in the immense pine-forests and cork-woods.
The Griffon Vulture and the Egyptian Vulture nest
in the precipitous heights of the sierras, and the rare
Lammergeier, now almost extinct in Europe, still
exists in greatly diminished numbers in the most
remote and inaccessible parts of the mountains.

THROUGH WILD EUROPE rg

One journey into Spain in 1897, and the ex-
periences with marsh birds there met with, had
imbued me with a love of that captivating country,
and a great desire to see more of it and its people.
I believe the usual thing for everybody who has
once visited Spain is never to be content until he
has been again and yet again. Certainly for the
naturalist there is hardly a richer field in Europe.
For, as will be seen from its position on the map, it
lies right in the track of the chief migratory route
by which birds passing up from the African con-
tinent reach their breeding-places in Northern
Europe, and its close propinquity to that great
continent induces others, which otherwise would
not be included among the list of European birds
at all, to cross the straits at Gibraltar.

After an interesting but uneventful journey we
duly arrived at Ronda, our first destination, and
found very comfortable quarters at the fonda over
the railway station.

We had hardly been in the place an hour, and
were on our first tour of inspection into the country
round the town, when we saw our first Griffon.
The great bird came sailing along just over our
heads before we had gone half a mile, almost within
pistol-shot. It was the first I had seen in a wild
state; but though I have been able to observe
hundreds since then, I do not think I have ever

16 BIRD-HUNTING

seen one at such close quarters except when I have
been well hidden near to a carcase and perfectly
invisible.

We had half hoped to find them nesting in the
tajo, the precipitous height on the edge of which is
perched the ancient town of Ronda, in such a fashion
that some of the houses actually overhang the per-
pendicular cliff. From the back windows of those
houses there must be a clear fall of at least 500
feet.

Standing on the picturesque bridge which spans the
ravine at the end of the town we could see, circling
and wheeling far below, numbers of Lesser Kestrels,
Crag Martins, and Pallid Swifts; but there was no
evidence of any nesting colony of Griffons; nor,
though we made inquiries, did we find anybody who
knew anything about them. We did indeed meet
one ancient cazador, sun-dried and lean, who
professed that he could take us to a nest; so we
engaged him on the chance of his being able to
make good his word, though without any great
expectation of success. We arranged for him to
meet us on the morrow provided with a sheep's
head, intended to be used as a bait for the automatic
electric camera.

Our friend was possibly a good sportsman in
his time, but that must have been some years ago.
He was a nice old fellow, and we took rather a

FERNANDO FLORES AND HIS WIFE

INTERIOR OF SPANISH CHOZA

[To face page 17

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 17

liking to him; but though he did his best he was
very shaky, sometimes even wanting a helping hand
over a difficult bit.

Under his guidance we went to the bottom of
the cliff by a winding pathway ; and then followed a
rocky stream, horribly polluted by the town sewage,
until the valley opened out on one side, having a
great semi-circular wall of rock on our right. The
bottom of the valley was cultivated with olive groves
and small fields, and from the perpendicular rock-
face were occasional buttresses or spurs projecting
into the valley. It was very evident that our guide
knew of no nest, so one of these rock buttresses was
selected on which to display the bait temptingly to
any Vulture which might be soaring overhead. Up
the rocky slope we scrambled, sometimes on all-
fours, and holding on to tufts of herbage or jutting
stones until we arrived at the top, from which there
was a fine view of the smiling valley laid out
before us like a garden. As quickly as possible
we adjusted the electric battery and carefully
covered over the camera, to the electric shutter
of which the bait was attached by a fine but
strong thread.

We had intended remaining within sight of the
arrangement in some crevice of the rock, but the
broiling sun found out in turn each hiding-place we

chose, and fairly scorched us out, the heat being to
2

18 BIRD-HUNTING

me quite unbearable. Accordingly we sought shelter
in one of the small, whitewashed cottages at no
great distance, from which the spot could be watched
through our glasses. Needless to say, we did not
seek hospitality in vain, but were welcomed with
true Spanish courtesy by the whole family. The
master of the house was out working in his fields,
but arrived about an hour later, and we were soon
on the most friendly footing, and satisfying to the
best of our abilities their questions about the outside
world. In their eyes—for I think not one of them
had ever been ten miles from the spot—we were
wonderful travellers; our friend Fernando Flores
declaring that we must have spent our whole lives
corriendo por todo ef mundo, running over the
whole world. And as M had visited India,
China, Japan, Vancouver, the States, &c., and I had
seen South America, Newfoundland, the West
Indies, the Mediterranean, and several European
countries, our collective travels certainly did cover
a good part of the world’s surface.

As we had brought provisions for the day we had
no need to share their midday meal, to which we
were invited: a central dish of stew, from which the
family at the circular table helped themselves with
wooden spoons, the meal being washed down by
deep draughts of water from the porous, chatty-like
jars kept in the coolest corner. Delightfully

FILLING THEIR CANTAROS

(To face page 19

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 19

cool and refreshing this water was, though I much
fear that it came from the sewage-tainted stream
which flowed past their door, for before leaving I
photographed the two pretty daughters filling their
cantaros from its polluted depths.

I must say that the sight gave me sundry mis-
givings, for I had refreshed myself more than once
while waiting ; however, no ill results followed, and
perhaps after all the drinking-water had come from
some purer source, for in Spain they well know
and appreciate the value of good and pure
water.

We had not forgotten the Vultures, but from time
to time kept a look-out from the doorway. We
started with fair hopes of success, for while setting
the bait out and arranging the camera we had
noticed a soaring Griffon which had evidently espied
the bait. Sure enough before long, four, and pre-
sently ten, of these great scavengers of Nature were
wheeling over the spot. But for some reason or
other they gradually soared higher and higher until
they were mere specks in the blue sky, and finally
disappeared altogether. Then four or five of the
smaller Egyptian Vultures took their place, but
though these came much nearer, some of them even
settling on the hillside not far away, they did not
actually touch the bait, and at the approach of
sunset we had to take up the camera.

20 BIRD-HUNTING

I think that if we had procured a bigger bait, say
a goat or a lamb, we should have had a better
chance of success. They told me that if we could
wait for five or six weeks for the next bull-fight we
should be certain of success, for the carcases of the
unfortunate horses would be thrown over the cliff
near where we were, and the Griffons would assemble
from far and wide for the feast. This, however, we
could not do, for we had made arrangements to visit
Malaga and the surrounding country before going
to the marismas.

But before taking this journey we were tempted
by the waiter at our hotel to make a day’s expedition
to a small place along the line at no very great
distance, where he declared we could see Vultures
on their nests close to the railway station.

As Prince Rudolf in his book describes just
such a nesting colony of Griffons somewhere in
this region, but without mentioning the name of
the place, we went off in full expectation of seeing
them at least, even if it should be impracticable
to do anything more. But our waiter had either
made a mistake in naming the station, or he had
imagined the whole thing, for on alighting we found
ourselves in the midst of a plain, with no possible
nesting-place of Vultures within two or three
miles.

As there was no return train for many hours we

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 21

made the best of the situation by wandering along
a small, muddy river, in which were lying immersed
hosts of reddish-coloured swine, and inquiring of all
and sundry whom we met if they knew of any
Eagles’ nests.

The sight of two hot and perspiring Englishmen
loaded with heavy bags and odd-looking impedi-
menta, staggering along over the fields under a
broiling sun, and making such inquiries, would in
most countries cause surprise, and questions as to our
sanity. However, nothing can surprise a Spaniard
or upset his grave courtesy. One and all of these
swarthy labourers toiling on the fields, burnt by the
torrid sun into the semblance of negroes, gave us
polite attention ; and presently one of them said that
he knew of none himself, but would go with us and
find some one who did.

Forthwith he left his hoe sticking up in the ground
and followed us, or, to be more precise, preceded
us. After perhaps an hour’s walk he found a goat-
herd, who sent his boy, while he himself looked
after his flocks, along with our new-found friend
to show us the way. Sure enough, on proceeding
farther he took us to the entrance of a forbidding-
looking gorge, where on one side the perfectly
perpendicular rock rose to the height of quite
600 or 800 feet. Then, pointing with his staff,
we beheld the desired xzdo del agutla two-thirds

on BIRD-HUNTING

of the way up, where the crag overhung. The
owner of the nest, a fine Bonelli’s Eagle, then flew
off, giving us a good view as she crossed the gorge
and disappeared.

It was in a perfectly hopeless situation; for even
if we had come provided with a rope long enough,
the cliff overhung at this particular spot so far that
it would have been impossible for any human being
to reach the nest, and we could only gaze at it
with interest. It probably contained young, Eagles
being very early breeders. All my attempts to
photograph the nest, either from the bottom or by
climbing up the opposite side as far as possible and
using the telephoto lens, were of no avail. Such a
strong wind came rushing through the gorge that it
was impossible to keep the camera steady.

We had a hot and weary tramp back, and when
our guide invited us, with Spanish politeness, to visit
his home and rest ex la sombra de la sala de mt
casa {in the shade of the hall of my house), we
accepted gratefully.

The ‘hall of his house’ we found a very grandilo-
quent figure of speech, for the house consisted of
but one room with earthen floor; but the welcome
was worthy of a palace, and when they prepared a
meal for us we were able to do full justice to it.
In a big wooden bowl maize bread was broken up
and soaked in water, oil, and vinegar. This was

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 23

placed between us, and being each provided with
a wooden spoon we were soon busily engaged,
and found it very cool and satisfying after our
exertions.

Our trip to Malaga may be briefly described as a
failure. The sierras which surround the town are, I
believe, good, and the district had been recommended
as quite worth visiting, but we were unfortunate in
not being able to find any reliable guide who could
direct us in which quarter to try. We were dis-
appointed also in the town itself. The drought,
under which Spain suffered so terribly that year,
was beginning to make itself felt, and the clouds of
dust, which lay to the thickness of four inches in the
streets, were intolerable. The smells everywhere
were terrible; and, to crown all this, our hotel, one -
of the biggest in the place, was alive with bugs!
Insect pests are the curse of Spanish travel. We
had changed our room soon after our arrival because
it stank so abominably of drains that it was impossible
to remain in it. We had a double-bedded room as
usual, and I slept all right, but poor M spent
half the night in agony, until, in desperation, he un-
packed his luggage and unearthed a box of Keating's
insect powder and plentifully besprinkled his bedding
with it. After that he had a little unquiet sleep, and
in the morning we examined the field of battle.
The ‘ Keating’s’ had done its work faithfully. We

24 BIRD-HUNTING

recovered forty bodies of the slain enemy and
arranged them in rows on the pillow, where they
made quite an imposing show. Then, ringing the
bell, we confronted the chambermaid with the
awful spectacle, expecting her to be overwhelmed
with confusion. Unfortunately, my knowledge of
Spanish was not equal to the emergency. My
education had been neglected, for I didn’t even know
the Spanish name of the obnoxious pest in question.
Malos insectos (bad insects) was the best epithet I
could think of on the spur of the moment. But she
was quite equal to the occasion, for pointing to the
window, which we had opened, she replied, that if
Englishmen would insist on having the windows
open they must put up with malos zxsectos. Now I
knew perfectly well that the zmsectos had not
entered by the window, but were, so to speak,
original inhabitants, born and bred on the premises.
But all this was beyond my powers of explanation,
so we had to leave her victorious after all.

Being disappointed in our expectations of Ma-
laga, we took the train to Gibraltar and Algeciras,
and spent a weary day’s journey in going this short
distance. From Algeciras we chartered a carriage
and four—or three, I forget which. I rather think
there were two horses and a mule. But, at any rate,
I am sure of this, that it was a most imposing-looking
equipage in which we started, to the admiration of

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 25

half the youthful populace of the place, for a spot
not far from the little town of Tarifa.

Here we found comfortable quarters in the
cottage of a labourer. The accommodation, it is
true, was somewhat primitive, but the two little
whitewashed rooms were beautifully clean, and we
saw no malos insectos or other pests. Above all,
old Juan, his wife, and their son, did their best to
make us feel at home and comfortable.

We were surrounded on each side by a level plain
encircled with mountains, and immediately in front
of the house was a large marsh, or what would have
been such under ordinary conditions. Now it was
partly dried up, and at the back of the marsh flowed
a sluggish river. We found here a fair amount of
bird life, Whiskered Terns (ydrochelidon hybrida)
were constantly seen hovering and skimming over
the reeds in some numbers, and small flocks of Buff-
backed Herons (Ardea bubulcus) attending on the
herds of cattle feeding on the plain; but the date
(April 13) was too early for any hopes of seeing
nests of these species. Marsh Harriers were fairly
common, and also Purple Herons, and a few
specimens of the White Stork were observed. On
the roth of April we watched three Cranes (Grus
communts) which were evidently thinking of com-
mencing nesting operations; but though we waded,
and systematically searched, a large expanse of marsh,

26 BIRD-HUNTING

we failed to find any nest. Probably these birds had
only just arrived. On the same day we saw Turtle
Doves. On the 13th of April Cuckoos, Nightingales,
and Woodchat Shrikes were observed, and on the
15th of April there was a sudden invasion of a large
flock of Bee-eaters, which sat in rows on the single
telegraph wire which passed our door. The beautiful
Blue Rock Thrush was fairly common; we had also »
seen it at Gibraltar. Dartford Warblers had young
birds ; they were very abundant in the tangled scrub
growing at the base of the spurs of rocks and the
outlying sierras. While searching for a nest of this
small species M was fortunate enough to put
off an Egyptian Vulture from her nest in a low rock,
and to reach the two richly-coloured eggs by means
of his nesting-stick. This is a telescopic arrange-
ment fitted at one end with a mirror set at such an
angle that the contents of a nest can be easily seen,
even though it may be several feet above one’s head.
There is also a small landing-net in which these
contents can be scooped out.

While here we tried again for an automatic
photograph of Vultures, using as bait the head and
inside of a kid we had purchased from our host; but
though I carried this bait about from day to day,
until it became decidedly offensive, in trying fresh
situations, we had no luck. Here, by the by, the
Spaniards always declared that our bait didn’t smell

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 27

strong enough for the Vultures to be able to find
it. This belief is very common, that the Vultures
find their food by smell. It has, of course, been
proved beyond question that they do so by sight
alone.

Indeed it was most noticeable that, every time I
tried putting out a bait it was invariably discovered
by a Griffon before I had finished concealing the
camera; and perhaps that is why they refused to
approach it. At this place also the Egyptian
Vultures settled on the ground close to the bait
without touching it.

One day, while wading in the marsh, a large
number of Griffons were observed in the air at a
little distance : there must have been some hundreds
of them. Thinking that a carcase was probably
somewhere about, we left our search for Cranes’ nests
and went off to investigate. Unfortunately, we had
noticed the birds just too late, for they had almost
demolished the carcase—that of a large pig—and
were rapidly departing. By the time I reached the
spot there was nothing left but the head, the back-
bone, and one or two of the legbones, which were
picked quite clean and bare. The rest had vanished.
Sitting round these scanty remains was a ring of
about thirty Griffons. There was a donkey feeding
near, and creeping up behind it with the camera
I was able to approach near enough to focus the

28 BIRD-HUNTING

curious scene. I ought, of course, to have exposed
one plate before proceeding further ; but, thinking
that the birds were gorged and unwilling to fly,
I foolishly attempted to get a little nearer. Of
course they all rose and flew off, the last to depart
being a couple of Marsh Harriers, which were
engaged in clearing off the smaller morsels and
débris.

We left the automatic camera to look after itself
while we went back for dinner, but this only resulted
in the photograph of a hungry dog!

Soon after this disappointment we determined to
visit the range of cliffs in the distance opposite the
house, one high crag in particular looking as if it
would be worth a visit.

On reaching the river, which was a fair-sized
one, we had some doubts about the whereabouts
of the ford, and inquired at a choza, a rude
hut of branches, near by. The owner, a typical,
sunburnt Andaluz, came out himself, with character-
istic politeness, to show us where we could
cross.

These Spanish plains in spring-time, before the
fierce sun has scorched and burnt everything up,
are ablaze with brightly-coloured flowers. Sometimes
we waded knee-deep through acres of pink mallows,
at other times thousands of blue irises made the
prevailing colour blue. Patches of silvery-grey

NEST OF CALANDRA LARK (MELANOCONY?PILA CALANDRA)

(To face page 29

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 29

thistles in some places gave a peculiar grey bloom
to the landscape. Calandra Larks and Short-toed
and Crested Larks rose before us, and on the
cultivated cornland we put up several Little Bus-
tards and wuails. The former show a good deal
of white onthe wing. Nearing the slopes of the
hills, brilliantly-plumaged Bee-eaters and Woodchat
Shrikes, their red heads shining like blood in the
bright sun, sat on the oak- and cork-trees, watching
for passing insects.

The base of all these rocky crags is festooned
and entwined with clinging, prickly briers, which
hold you fast in their embrace and trip up your feet,
and do all in their power to obstruct the way ; and
after our long tramp with heavy cameras in the
broiling heat we were glad enough of a rest in the
shade of some cork-trees. Scanning the lofty face
of the rock before us, we were delighted to find that
in many of the holes and crevices, wherewith the
precipice was pitted, Griffon Vultures were sitting
motionless on their nests. Dwarfed by their colossal
surroundings, these great birds, which have a spread
of wing of about ten feet, appeared to be no larger
than Starlings. Others soared high overhead, passing
and repassing as they circled round the summit of
the rock. From below it appeared to be unassail-
able, but, as we found out later, many of these
rocks, which appear so formidable from below, are

30 BIRD-HUNTING

comparatively easy to climb from the top, even
without a rope.

While we were watching with interest the Griffons
in their mountain home, a smaller bird, with whitish
breast, appeared and settled on a dead tree which
projected near the top, and we recognized the noble
form of a Bonelli’s Eagle. Presently it left its perch
and sailed round in front of the great crag. But,
though so much smaller, it appeared to disdain the
too close propinquity of its larger but more ignoble
neighbours ; for, on one of the Griffons venturing
too near, it made a most magnificent ‘stoop’ and
struck the Vulture with such force that the great
bird fairly toppled over, and fell several feet in the
air before it could recover itself.

It was a splendid example of natural falconry on
a large scale, and reminded us at once of the
antagonism and fierce conflicts between the Eagles
and the Cinereous Vultures in the forests of Slavonia,
so graphically described by the late Crown Prince
Rudolf of Austria in his book Sport and Ornithology.

A little to the right of this Griffonry was a gap
through which flowed a small, rocky stream, and on
the other side of this stream the rocks were much
lower. Here, fortunately, we found a Griffon quietly
sitting in her nest in a big hole by the side of a
half-grown young bird. After a little manoeuvring
by climbing up an adjacent hillside so as to clear

of aSnd 29vf 07)

(SAATONA SdA5) ISHN NI AWALTAA Nosarug

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 31

some trees which obstructed the view from below, I
was able to bring the camera and telephoto lens to
bear on her at a workable distance. It was really a
great stroke of luck to find a Griffon’s nest in such
an accessible situation, for as a rule they choose a
perpendicular precipice of anything over 500 or
600 feet in which to nest. The curious part of
it was that so long as I was alone the bird sat
quietly on her nest, and I was free to move about
in full view of her without disturbing her in the
least ; but as soon as M: or the young Spaniard
appeared on the scene she flew off, and would not
return until they had retired.

Only a few yards from this nest I had put off
from a cave higher up a fine Egyptian Vulture, and
could see the outside sticks of her nest projecting
over the edge. I tried hard to climb to this nest,
which was not more than sixty feet up, but could
not manage more than half-way, and there stuck, so
I had to give it up.

All that night after our return I lay awake con-
sidering how I could master this difficult bit of rock-
face ; and at last I thought I had hit upon a feasible
idea. The next day, therefore, we hired some
horses and rode back, provided with a coil of rope
and the nesting-stick before described. The idea
was for me to climb up as far as I could, and then,
by placing the nesting-stick extended to its full

32 BIRD-HUNTING

length, about ten feet, in the bight of the rope, to
hitch it over a projecting rock, haul myself up, and
repeat the process until I reached the nest. The
descent would be easy with the doubled rope. It
worked all right at first, and I reached a spot much
higher than before, and not very far from the nest ;
but from this spot I could ascend no farther. It was
impossible to find any corner on to which to hitch
the rope. What corners there were were inclined
the wrong way, and on the slightest pull the rope
slipped back. So once more | had to give it up
and descend empty-handed. All I could do was
to photograph the rock from below and make some
more exposures of the Griffon, which proved quite
as obliging as on the previous day.

In the meantime we had set an old Spaniard to
work, making inquiries among the goatherds, and
offering a small reward for news of any Eagles’
nests. One day he told us he had information of
one to which he could conduct us when we liked.
Accordingly we started off next day with him and
another Spaniard, who had hired for us a small
donkey with panniers, in which we could stow the
cameras and enough food and wine for a day’s
work.

We found the heat too terrific and the distances
too great to carry everything ourselves over such
rough ground. Even with this extra assistance it

NEST OF EGYPTIAN VULTURE (PERCNOPTERUS NEOPHRON)
[To face page 32

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 33

was a good day’s work, what with the long walk
and the climbing and clambering about the rocks ;
so much so that our guide—as we both refused to
do so—for the greater part of the return journey
was glad to mount the poor little donkey, which
made no bother about carrying him as well as her
proper load.

The Eagle’s nest was situated in an isolated rocky
crag, perhaps 100 feet in height, in the middle of a
plain. As we approached, guided by two goat-
herds whose flocks were grazing near by, a Bonelli’s
Eagle flew off, revealing her nest high up near the
summit. Making a long détour by means of a
narrow, slippery goat-track, we came out at the
back, and then clambered along the top from one
great boulder to another until we were immediately
over the nest. Then craning our necks over the
edge we could see below us a great, flat nest in
which was a large, single egg.

I was much relieved at the sight; first, because
it was a very late date for eggs of Bonelli’s Eagle,
and, secondly, because I had somewhat rashly under-
taken, if there should be an egg, to take it myself,
and Bonelli’s Eagle has the worst possible reputa-
tion for building in inaccessible situations—‘ places
that make one’s flesh creep to look at,’ says Chap-
man in W2/d Spain—and | was prepared for a much

more difficult task.
3

34 BIRD-HUNTING

After the Alpine rope had been securely knotted
round my chest, my three companions, bracing
themselves firmly one above the other, lowered me
over the edge until I stood upright in the nest.
Holding up the egg to show to the goatherds who
had remained below, I gave the signal to the men
above, and was quickly hauled up with the egg safe
in my pocket. It was very long and pointed, a
dirty white with rusty-coloured stains, and proved
to be addled. This was fortunate, however, for us ;
for, had things gone well with it, there should by
this date (April 20) have been a half-grown Eaglet
in the nest.!

While eating our lunch under some small trees
near the foot of this crag we found that a Goldfinch
was quietly sitting on her nest just over our heads.
There was another nest in a neighbouring tree.
The Gzlguero is exceedingly common throughout
Spain, perhaps on account of the abundance of its
favourite food, the thistle. Later we discovered
numbers of them nesting in orange-trees. These
Spanish Goldfinches are small, but very brightly
coloured.

After this we proceeded towards the coast in
search of the nest of a Golden Eagle, Aguzla real,
as the Spaniards call it, of which we had tidings

1 In the following year a friend found in this same nest a young
Golden Eagle in the middle of April.

NEST OF BONELLI’S EAGLE (AQUILA BONELLI1)
[To face page 34

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 35

from the goatherds. Following our guide, after we
had hobbled the donkey at the nearest available
spot, we clambered for some distance over a series
of huge boulders, by degrees getting higher and
higher, until we arrived at the verge of a tremendous
cliff. I had carried a pair of a4aragatas in my bag,
and put them on as soon as there was any climbing
to do. These are the canvas rope-soled shoes so
common in Spain, and are by far the best things I
know for rock-work, much better than the raw hide
opankis \ used later in the Balkans. In them one
can go in ease and comfort over places where I, for
one, would have to go down on hands and knees
if clad in ordinary boots. Our old guide skipped
about like an ancient billy-goat, and we were able to
follow him without any difficulty.

But we could see no signs of any Eagle’s nest
until I fired a pistol, when out swept, a few yards to
our right, with a tremendous rustle of big wing-
feathers, not the expected Eagle, but an immense
Griffon Vulture.

Not one in ten of these goatherds, though they
must see Eagles and Vultures every day of their
lives, know the difference between them, so that, in
spite of their willingness to give information, no
dependence can be put upon its correctness.

The Griffon had appeared from a ledge not far
down the precipice, and the next thing was to make

36 BIRD-HUNTING

an attempt to reach the spot. The guide went first
to reconnoitre and was soon lost to sight ; but after
a few minutes we could hear his hail and see his
head over a rock corner. Shouting out that there
were eggs, he directed us to make the best of our
way down to where he was. Our path ran down-
wards ina slanting direction. The rock was com-
posed of titanic boulders, many of them as big as a
room in an ordinary house ; and from one to another
of these we had to drop or make our way as best
we could. Sometimes we were obliged to slide
down a short incline, only to be brought up by the
next obstacle ; but after a rough scramble all four of
us found ourselves actually standing in the Griffon’s
nest.

I had been a little hampered by the heavy camera-
case on my back and the strapped-up tripod carried
in my hand, and was not sorry to find myself at last,
with my photographic equipment uninjured, in this
great nest, from which we enjoyed a magnificent view.

Looking straight down under our feet we could
see, 1,000 feet below us, a tiny patch of yellow
sand on which the little waves were lazily rolling ;
while far away to the horizon the sea shimmered
and shone in the glorious sunshine, with opalescent
tints of blue, green, and purple, until lost in the blue
sky above.

In the nest, which was very large and well made

LE avg anfo,7)

LSaN NI FNALTNA NOATIYO ONNOA

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 37

of sticks outside, with a finer lining of grasses and
small stuff, was a young bird. This youngster, which
was still in down, appeared to be in a very limp con-
dition and unable to raise its body or even its head,
but lay quite prone and prostrate in the bottom of
the nest. Whether this was due to the heat or to
an enforced fast of some duration it is, of course,
impossible to say. It is well known that the adult
Vultures, as indeed is the case with all birds of
prey, can exist without food for an almost incredible
number of days ; and that when they get the chance
they make up for past shortcomings in one tre-
mendous gorge. Of course even in Spain it must
happen sometimes that the supply of carcases runs
short for the enormous number! of the great flesh-
eating birds, which are entirely dependent on what
dead bodies they can find—for they mever kill any-
thing for themselves. And if these times of scarcity
happen in the spring, it follows that the young, as
well as the adult birds, must sometimes be obliged
to go without food for some time. Be this as it
may, this young Griffon appeared to be in the last
stage of exhaustion.

Still lower down, on a ledge which we could only
reach with our rope, were two more Griffons’ nests,
each of which held one great, round, white egg, and
also the nest of an Egyptian Vulture, with two .
beautifully marked eggs of a rich reddish-brown.

38 BIRD-HUNTING

This concluded a good day’s work, for we had a
long march home, where we arrived very tired and
hungry, but very well satisfied with the results.
One egg of Bonellis Eagle, two eggs of Griffon
Vulture, and two eggs of Egyptian Vulture, consti-
tuted a very good day’s takings, without reckoning
the Goldfinches’ and other small eggs we had picked
up accidentally on our way.

This was our last day’s work in this locality, for
we had arranged for our carriage to come out again
from Algeciras to take us on to the railway between
Cadiz and Jerez-de-la Frontera.

On the way we passed a great assemblage of
Griffons hurrying at full speed from every point of
the compass, and converging in hundreds in a field
at a little distance from the road, where, no doubt,
was a carcase in process of being devoured. There
was no time to stop, however, for we had before us
a journey of something like forty miles, and the
certainty that if we missed our train we should have
from twelve to twenty-four hours to wait. But for
some distance as we drove along, belated birds
passed us, all bound for the same spot.

This well illustrates their method, and explains
why it is that so many congregate in so short a
time in a spot where perhaps the keenest observer
would fail to discover a single Vulture. They spend
the day soaring in great circles at an immense height,

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 39

from whence they can survey a great expanse of
country. Nothing escapes their telescopic gaze, and
at the first sight of a carcase the bird which first
notices it descends. Other Griffons at varying dis-
tances see this descent, and, knowing exactly what
it portends, also make for the same spot; and so it
goes on, for birds still farther off watch the pro-
ceedings and also hurry down, they in their turn
being followed by others, until hundreds of hungry
scavengers are making up for their long fast, and
trying to bolt as much food as possible in the shortest
possible time.

It is quite usual to hear people express their
disgust at the very idea of a Vulture; but I think
this prejudice is merely sentimental. Certainly their
habits and food do not recommend them, however
useful they may be; but their appearance is
exceedingly picturesque, and the sight of a number
simultaneously on the wing is a most interesting ex-
perience. When at rest on their native rocks, too,
their huge size, and their statuesque and motionless
pose amid the grandeur of the massive rocks and
beetling precipices in which they live, combine to
invest them with a certain beauty and distinction of
their own.

The Egyptian Vulture, though its habits are even
more repulsive and disgusting than those of the
Griffon, is a most striking-looking and handsome

40 BIRD-HUNTING

bird; and seen on the wing at close quarters, with
its jet black primaries and creamy white plumage, it
has quite a distinguished appearance.

On reaching the railway at San Fernando we
were struck by the mountains of salt. All round
Cadiz there are miles of sa/uas, where the salt is
obtained by evaporation, and is piled up in glistening
pyramids. The sea-water here is intensely saline,
but the salt is very coarse and badly prepared, and
not by any means free from a proportion of dirt.

After roughing it in the country, we now enjoyed
to the full, for several days, the hospitality of our
friends at Jerez, while preparations were made for
our journey to the marisma district beyond the
Guadalquivir.

OF aSvy avsfoz]

QTITIAIS ‘SNTIVVO UAVZVOTV HILL NI

II
BIRDS -NESTING IN SPAIN—continued

WE had already seen some of the effects of the
disastrous drought, and had heard dismal tales of
the condition of the marismas ; but when we arrived
there we found that the reality exceeded our worst
expectations.

I could hardly believe my eyes, or realize that
it was the same district I had visited in 1897. In
ordinary years this region is covered with shallow
water during the winter and spring months, which
gradually dries up under the burning heat of the
summer sun. As far as the eye can see, shut in
between desolate sand-dunes, the home of many
rabbits, and extensive pine-woods, inhabited only
by Eagles, Ravens and Kites, and tangled, thorny
thickets, which shelter the Red Deer, the Lynx, and
the Wild Boar, are leagues and leagues of water
stretching to the horizon. In the shallows stand thou-
sands of Flamingoes in long lines, just like regiments
of soldiers. Circling flocks of Gulls and Terns are

screaming overhead, while on the moist, muddy
AI

42 BIRD-HUNTING

shores, and wading about in the water, are countless
thousands of marsh birds—Godwits, Curlews, Knots,
Dunlins, Plovers, Stilts, and Avocets. For through
these marismas must pass twice each year more
than half of the wading birds bound for the north
of Europe. Those Knots, for instance, are not
stopping here, but merely feeding and resting on
their long journey to their nesting-grounds round
the Pole. To-morrow they will probably have
passed on and their places will have been taken
by others. The deeper pools, fringed with reeds
and tamarisks, are resorted to by the beautiful
Southern Herons, which nest in great numbers on
the submerged bushes.

This year, however, in April, where there should
have been this great expanse of water, alive with
an infinite variety of graceful bird forms, there was
absolutely no water at all for miles. The ground
was perfectly dry and baked by the sun to the hard-
ness of brick. Around the few damp spots in the
deeper parts where there still lingered a little
moisture were pitiable groups of half-starved cattle
and horses, struggling in the stiff mud up to their
bellies in order to reach what little vegetation still
remained, and find a few drops of water to quench
their thirst. It was a dreadful sight; and if this
was the state of affairs in April one does not like
to think of their sufferings during the long, scorching

SPANISH CHOZAS

THE EDGE OF THE SAND DUNES

{To face page 43

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 43

days of summer. The Vultures would probably
have cause to remember 1905 as a year of unusual
plenty. For no rain fell until late in the autumn,
the drought having lasted for ten months; the crops
were an utter failure, and the cattle perished by
thousands.

There was the greatest distress among the popula-
tion, and starving mobs of people paraded the towns
clamouring for work and bread. In ordinary years
brigandage in Spain is almost stamped out, or at
least kept under by the efficiency of the Guardas
civiles ; but in times of scarcity like these it is apt
to crop up unexpectedly, especially in remote dis-
tricts and in the sierras. Smuggling, too, is never
altogether kept under—desperate conflicts between
armed contrabandistas and the civil guards being
of constant occurrence, and it does not take much
to convert a contrabandista into a brigand. We
had, in fact, been strongly advised not to travel
unarmed ; and when we left Gibraltar many of the
residents who have country houses in the neighbour-
hood were shutting them up and coming into the
town with their families and movables.

Under these circumstances we could not expect
to find a great number of birds in the marismas.
And indeed there was hardly one to be seen, nothing
to break the bare expanse of sun-baked mud except
the deceptive glamour of the mirage. In the middle

44 BIRD-HUNTING

distance would be plainly visible sometimes broad,
reed-fringed pools, or busy havens full of shipping,
with the towers and cupolas of a phantom town
bathed in a mysterious golden haze. You knew
it was but the mirage, that such things had no
existence ; but so realistic was the deception that
it was almost impossible to believe that it was simply
an illusion.

A few Buff-backed Herons were to be seen in
attendance on the groups of half-starved cattle.
They are called Garrapatosas—‘tick-eaters’—by the
Spaniards, from their habit of perching on the backs
of cattle and horses in order to free them from their
insect pests; but their usual nesting-place, a remote
lagoon surrounded by leagues of desolate sand-dunes
and forests, had been completely dried up and
obliterated, literally stamped out of existence by
the cattle seeking in their thirst the last drop of
moisture.

Gone was all the wealth of bird life which makes
this region of such intense interest to the naturalist.
The Flamingoes, the graceful Little Egrets, the
Night and Squacco Herons, the funereal Glossy
Ibis, the quaint Stilts, and Avocets had not arrived
this season, or if they had arrived they had gone
on elsewhere. The few Pratincoles, Redshanks,
and Plovers which could be seen did not appear to
be nesting.

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 45

In the extensive pine-forests which intersect and
surround the marismas there was an equal change,
The whole district had passed into different hands,
the Spanish Duke, the former owner, having sold it
to a capitalist. In the place of the solitude I had
found in 1897 there were now armies of men, with
scores of wagons and horses, engaged in felling the
largest of the trees and in conveying them to the
river, where a great steam saw-mill cut them up for
tramway sleepers before being shipped to their
destination ; and the peaceful stillness of the forest
was broken by the buzz and hum of machinery, the
sharp strokes of the axe, and the shouts of the
labourers.

As we gazed around us at the havoc they had
made, our hopes for Eagles and Kites dwindled
away to zero. Every tree of any size had vanished ;
the charcoal-burners’ fires were disposing of the
piles of branches, and even the very roots and
stumps, which were all that was left to remind me
of the monarchs of the forest of former years, were
being howked up and dragged out of the earth for
charcoal. :

It seemed quite ridiculous to expect an Eagle,
or even a Kite, to build on the puny little trees
which we saw. But to our surprise we found many
Kites and Black Kites nesting on the small pines,
and whenever we saw a silver poplar towering over

46 BIRD-HUNTING

the surrounding pines it was always worth a visit.
Many Booted Eagles (Aguzla pennata) were nesting
in them.

And here I may mention that the silver poplar is
a favourite tree with the large raptores, and is often
chosen by them to nest in: I can recall many
instances. Besides these Booted Eagles we found
in these trees a nest of the Short-toed or Snake
Eagle (Czrcattus gallicus). In Albania, in 1906, |
found a nest of the Sea Eagle (Haliadtus albtcilla)
in a silver poplar, and in the following year nests
of Black Vulture (Vudtur monachus) and Imperial
Eagle (Aguzla imperialis) in the same kind of tree
in a Roumanian forest.

To show the abundance of raptorial birds in
these forests, in a space of not more than a few
acres were the nests of a Black Kite, a Short-toed
Eagle, and a Booted Eagle, and none of them were
half a mile from a village.

The first nest we found was that of a Black
Kite, placed at the summit of a small pine-tree.
As it contained three well-marked eggs, a choice
collection of old rags, and an empty matchbox,
I carried the camera up and photographed the
nest 22 stfu, as it has been said that the Black Kite
does not use rags in constructing its nest. We had
seen the bird leave the nest, so that there was no
doubt about its being that of a Black Kite (AZz/vus

gb aS a2vf 07]

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NEST OF SHORT-TOED EAGLE (CIRCAETUS GALLICUS)

(10 face page 47

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 47

mugrans). The Common Kite (Milvus regalis) not
only uses rags, but also horse dung, and almost
invariably a piece of newspaper is to be found in
its nest.

A few yards farther on was an enormous nest
in a silver poplar, from which a Short-toed Eagle
flew off. M , who had climbed up, had some
difficulty in reaching over the edge of the nest, but
shouted that he could feel an egg. This he brought
down, and as this Eagle lays but one egg, generally
speaking, we naturally supposed that there were no
more. Then, as it was impossible to get above
the nest for a photograph without knocking it all
to pieces, we went back for a saw and a rope, and
I ascended the tree and cut off the whole of the
upper part of it, including the nest, and lowered
it to the ground by means of the rope. It was a
tough job, and required careful engineering to avoid
a broken limb or being swept out of the tree
with the fall; but by cutting through a double stem,
and using the fork that was left as a pulley for the
rope, and having two men below to hang on with
all their strength and weight at the moment when
the saw cut through the great mass above me,
we managed to get it safely to the ground with-
out accident. But, most unfortunately, during this
lowering a second egg rolled out of the nest, and
was of course smashed. It is so extremely unusual

48 BIRD-HUNTING

for this Eagle to lay two eggs that we never
thought of the possibility of there being another
one.

Not a hundred yards from these two nests we
found a Booted Eagle breeding in a poplar. And
as the nest was not at a great height, and could
be clearly seen from the ground, I constructed a
shelter of tamarisk bushes, meaning to come the
next day and try to photograph the bird itself
before we started on a three days’ visit to another
distant part of the marismas. It was while waiting
at this nest that I first heard the curious, musical
note of the Booted Eagle.

Prince Rudolf says: ‘The Pygmy Eagle has a
fine, melodious voice—I might really speak of it
as the singing Eagle; for the varied notes which
it utters constitute a song, short indeed, but still
not a call, and more like the utterances of the
song-birds than the shrill whistle of the other
raptorial birds,’

This last sentence exactly coincides with my
experience. While crouching behind my rude
shelter of branches I had heard a curious and
rather melodious note repeated several times, with
which I was quite unacquainted, and wondered
what it could be. It resembled the sounds ‘ kivi-
kivi,’ and from the peculiar quality of the note I
thought it proceeded from some bird about the

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THROUGH WILD EUROPE 49

size of an Oriole, and looked around me to try to
discover from whence it proceeded.

To my great surprise I found that it was the
Booted Eagle, the owner of the nest. (The Booted
Eagle is now, of course, universally recognized as
identical with the Pygmy Eagle.) The bird was
sitting on the ground quite close to me, in fact
not more than six or seven yards away. But the
moment I saw it it flew up, and I was afraid that
it had seen me and taken the alarm. However,
within half an hour it. glided past me, low down,
and swept upwards in a graceful curve to the nest,
perching in the nest itself so that I could only see
its head. It did not stay there more than a moment
or two, however, but flew off to return again pre-
sently. This time it perched on the thick branch
near the nest, where I had a good view of it, and
on this same branch I] photographed it twice before
I left. The photograph shows well the peculiar
feathering, right down to the toes, which gives it
its name of ‘ Booted’ Eagle, and caused it to be
called the ‘Eagle with the breeches’ by Prince
Rudolf’s Slavonian climber.

There was one egg in the nest, which I took as
we were going away, leaving a hen’s egg in its
place, for I expected she still had another egg to lay.
However, on our return this hen’s egg had gone,

probably some hungry charcoal-burner or herdsman
4

50 BIRD-HUNTING

had eaten it. These men take all the Kites’ and
Eagles’ eggs they can find, for eating purposes, as
well as any others they come across.

A boy told me he had recently eaten a clutch of
Polluelas’ eggs. This is the name they give to all
the small Crakes. The Little Crake, Spotted Crake,
and Baillon’s Crake are all called ‘ Polluela.’ On
my previous visit I saw one of our men carry
home a basketful of the eggs of Little Egrets and
Buff-backed Herons for eating. I have myself
partaken of omelets composed of Whiskered Terns’
eggs.

For the expedition across the dried-up marismas
we had three donkeys and a mule to convey our
effects, for we were going to put up at a rude
choza, or hut, belonging to one of the keepers, and
it was necessary to take our bedding with us, as well
as our food. This choza was entirely composed of
pine-branches thatched with reeds: in the centre was
the living-room, and at each end were small sleeping-
rooms. In one of these our mattresses and bedding
were spread on the earth floor.

Now I don’t mind sleeping on the floor at all, and
can make myself comfortable almost anywhere, but I
must say I do not like to share rooms with hens,
pigeons, and pigs. Whenever I came in there were
always hens scratching about on our beds, and some
pigeons roosted on the rafters over our heads, with

SOUTHERN GREY SHRIKE (LANIUS MERIDIONALIS)

CROSSING THE DRIED-UP MARISMA

(To face page 50

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 51

results that are easier imagined than described ;
several times I turned out a huge, gaunt-looking
sow, which apparently considered that it had as
much right there as myself. I thought differently
about this, however, and had to enforce my ideas
with a thick stick before she gave in and cleared out
with a grunt.

But old Vasquez and his wife and two daughters
did their best to make us comfortable, and notwith- |
standing these trifling drawbacks we had a very good
time and enjoyed our stay in the wilds.

We found several more Kites, Black Kites,
Ravens, and Booted Eagles, also two nests of Marsh
Harrier, but the Waders and Herons, as I mentioned
before, were non-existent. The drought had one
unexpected effect, for it brought nearer to human
habitation the famous wild camels which inhabit this
region, the mention of which by Mr. Abel Chapman
caused such a controversy in the Fze/d some years
ago. They are the descendants of a small herd
imported many years ago from the Canary Islands,
and being unsuitable for the work for which they
were intended, were turned out or allowed to escape.
Since then they have lived in the marismas in an
entirely feral state, seldom seen by any human
eye save that of an occasional herdsman or guarda,
in the far distance. On several occasions we saw
two at a distance of about 1,000 yards. From the

52 BIRD-HUNTING

difference in size they were apparently an old camel
and a young one about half-grown.

The Red Deer, of which there were great numbers,
were also frequently to be seen close to the few and
scattered huts. For this is one of the most famous
and best-stocked sporting preserves in all Spain,
both for big game, such as deer and boar, &c., and
for ducks, geese, partridges, woodcocks, and snipe.

The sand-dunes, which cover an immense extent
of country, and which are ever encroaching on the
forests, and filling up the numerous lakes and lagoons
with fine particles blown about by the wind, are a
curious feature of this district. As these dunes
advance one sees the pine-trees in all stages of being
engulfed. Here is one buried but a foot or two,
vigorous as ever; there are trees the whole of whose
trunks are completely covered with the advancing
sand ; while higher up, bleached and lifeless branches,
like the gaunt skeletons of extinct monsters, testify
to the buried forests beneath. These sand-dunes
are inhabited by rabbits, Stone Curlews, and
Red-necked Nightjars, while the tamarisks and
cistus bushes provide shelter for the Red Deer,
and the manchas, or jungles, harbour many a Wild
Boar. Over the dazzling surface dart the great
green Eyed Lizards, some of them nearly three feet
long, and snakes up to six feet; while overhead
are Kites and Eagles incessantly on the watch,

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THROUGH WILD EUROPE 53

ready to devour either snake, lizard, or rabbit. A
Kite we shot was packed full of pieces of a freshly-
swallowed Eyed Lizard, while a Booted Eagle, in the
uniform dark brown plumage, had evidently dined
last on a rabbit. There are two distinct phases of
plumage in this Eagle, which may perhaps account for
the confusion which formerly prevailed, viz. a light
form with white breast, and a dark form ; and, as in
most raptorial birds, there is considerable variation
in size. It is quite the smallest of the Eagles, being
hardly larger than the Buzzard, and its eggs are, if
anything, rather smaller than the Buzzard’s. Two
eggs are usually laid; but in one nest—again in a
large silver poplar—we found three young birds.

In another nest quite low down in a half-buried,
spreading pine-tree at the edge of a sand-dune, were
two eggs and the hind quarters of a rabbit. While
I was engaged in photographing this nest, and was
in the act of lashing the camera legs to the bough,
the female Eagle dashed in and sat on the same
bough, almost within reach of my hand, then, realiz-
ing my presence, she flew off with a scream. The
tree was very heavily foliaged, and in consequence
it was very dark, and it is possible that she had not
seen me, her attention being taken up with the
others below me on the ground.

I tried here the automatic electric camera carefully
hidden with cistus bushes on the top of a sand-dune,

54 BIRD-HUNTING

and baited with a rabbit. On the first attempt the
rabbit was carried off bodily, the string which
connected it with the camera being snapped without
releasing the shutter. As no footprint showed in
the smooth surface of the sand it was evident that
some powerful bird had swooped down and carried
it off without alighting. At the second attempt,
after procuring another rabbit, the shutter duly went
off, and by the tracks left in the sand it was plain
that a Kite or Kites had been there. Unfortunately,
the plate, from which I expected an interesting
photograph, was badly fogged from being left so
long in the brilliant sun, only protected by the fabric
of the focal-plane shutter.

Many Peregrines were flying about the forests,
and were apparently resting or sitting in empty
nests, for from one nest from which we disturbed
a Peregrine we afterwards took four eggs of the
Raven.

Kestrels also use the old nests of the Kite in
which to lay their own eggs. Barn Owls and Jack-
daws nest in the old cork-trees, while the quaint
Little Owls use the Woodpeckers’ holes in the same
trees, and also the holes in the gnarled and twisted
olive-trees.

Bee-eaters, Hoopoes, Rollers, and Golden
Orioles also abound, and add to the interest of the
scene by their brilliant plumage ; and a few Southern

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(VaHaNO VIATAS) UATAUVM NvaHdyo 10 SAN

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 55

Grey Shrikes and many Woodchat Shrikes sit on
the bushes and smaller trees on the watch for
passing beetles. This Grey Shrike is not the
northern form, Lanius excubttor, but Lantus mert-
dionalis, which has the breast vinous coloured ; the
former is not found anywhere in Spain.

In the orange orchards nearer the river we found
many Goldfinches’ nests, and several nests of Wood-
chat Shrike.

Another nest of the Woodchat, with six eggs,
was in a tangled bush at the height of about
seven feet from the ground. The only nest of
Lantus meridionalis, the Southern Grey Shrike,
was also in a very thick bush, but lower down,
perhaps five feet from the ground.

In the orange-trees was a nest of the Orphean
Warbler, while Great Tits, called by the Spanish
boys Santa Cruz (Holy Cross), from the black
throat and breast stripe forming a rude sort of cross,
were very abundant, nesting in similar holes and
crannies to those usually chosen by these birds at
home.

Nightingales in Spain habitually nest much
higher up than is usual in England. In a Jerez
garden I saw two nests in bamboos some four feet
from the ground. In the same garden was a nest of
the Western form of the Olivaceous Warbler (/7y-
polats opaca), containing four eggs. This was at a

56 BIRD-HUNTING

considerable height—quite ten feet—while the nest
of a Blackcap was thirty feet up a tree. This looks
as if these birds had been driven to nest in higher
situations on account of some danger likely to be
met with in more lowly sites. The abundance of
large snakes and lizards, both with very carnivorous
tastes, is no doubt a factor to be reckoned with by
small birds in making their domestic arrangements.
As these huge lizards think nothing of swallowing
whole a half-grown rabbit (vzde Chapman’s Wild
Spain), a brood of young birds would not be at all
safe on or near the ground.

While we were in the desolate marismas, far re-
moved from any of the luxuries of life, my friend fell
ill. There was no doctor anywhere available, and I
had to turn doctor for the occasion. As he was in
great pain, with internal inflammation, hot flannels
seemed to be desirable; and failing anything else
more suitable, a flannel shirt was wrung out of boiling
water, and in this the patient was packed, while hot-
water bottles were improvised out of wine-bottles
wrapped up in a focusing-cloth. A day or two of
this treatment proved very beneficial, but then the
difficulty arose about feeding him. Luckily, our
stores contained one tin of cocoa, and as we could
get no meat, except by shooting for the pot, Benitez,
the Spanish keeper, who acted as our factotum and
handy man, was dispatched to shoot some Turtle

NEST OF WESTERN OLIVACEOUS WARBLER (HYPOLAIS OPACA)
(To face page 56

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 57

Doves and Woodpigeons, and with these some
capital strong soup was made. A few days later
the patient was about again, though somewhat shaky
on his legs.

On these expeditions it does not pay to be ill.
As long as one is well, the rough, open-air life and
the constant occupation are most enjoyable; but
during sickness it is a very different affair. I make
a point of carrying a few remedies, but have very
seldom had occasion to use them myself. Quinine,
for example, is a necessity ; some arnica, or Elliman’s
embrocation, for strains or muscular fatigue, is also
often wanted, and a few homoeopathic medicines
take up little room and are decidedly useful—these
and a bottle of chlorodyne are always included in
my luggage wherever I go; and last, but not least
important, a tin of Keating’s insect powder.

Luckily, I am not a fersona grata with insect
pests, and I can often sleep unmolested while my
companions are horribly tormented. But when in
doubt about sleeping-quarters I always make a
point of using my sleeping-bag, without which no
traveller is perfectly equipped. Mosquitoes, how-
ever, are not very discriminating ; and any stranger,
be he dry or juicy, is bound to suffer more than a
native. A mosquito-net is therefore a necessity, for
a disturbed night, and especially a succession of
disturbed nights, renders it impossible to be in fit

58 BIRD-HUNTING

condition for work during the day. In the southern
countries of Europe mosquitoes as a rule only
trouble one at night, and one can generally depend
upon being unmolested during the day. There are
exceptions, however. On the Danube Delta, for
example, the mosquitoes are always hungry, and
give one no peace by day or night. A green gauze
bag, big enough to go over the hat and long enough
to tuck under the coat collar, is a great defence for
the face; and this, with gloves for the hands, will
give sufficient protection.

In these Spanish marismas you need no pre-
cautions against mosquitoes until April; they then
begin to be troublesome. During May the interior
of a choza, or even the airy rooms of the ancient
shooting-boxes of the old Spanish nobility, are
veritable infernos, and without the protection of
mosquito-curtains a stranger would be almost eaten
alive. During the later summer months they must
equal the winged hordes of the Dobrudscha region,
where, to live at all, the people are obliged to have
bonfires of dried reeds in the streets, which emit
stifling volumes of smoke, and in the towns it is
almost impossible to see the light from the feeble
street-lamps for the hosts of mosquitoes that circle
around them.

One hears about the campaign against mosquitoes
in tropical countries in the attempt to fight the

MOORISH DOORWAY, ALCAZAR, SEVILLE

(To face page 59

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 59

yellow fever and similar tropical diseases, but to
disinfect a district like the marismas of Southern
Spain, or the impenetrable swamps and morasses of
the Danube, seems to me to be an utterly impossible
task, and beyond even the powers of science to
effect.

No visit to Andalusia is complete without a stop
at Seville, and we spent a few days at this beautiful
town, in order to see the old Moorish palace of
Alcazar, and the Cathedral, a typical example of
Spanish architecture.

Any attempt, however, at describing the beauties
of Seville is beyond the scope of a book which only
professes to deal with the birds of Wild Europe.

IT]
THE JOURNEY OUT TO BOSNIA AND MONTENEGRO

Earty in April 1906, I found myself in Serajevo,
a place the very existence of which, let alone its
whereabouts, I had been profoundly ignorant a few
weeks before. It is possible that some of my readers
will sympathize with this ignorance, for, though the
capital of Bosnia, it is not a place which makes much
stir in the world, and it would be easy to go through
life and never hear of it or see any reference to it.

The railway journey from Vienna and Budapest
had been through a desolate, snow-covered country,
and on arrival early in the morning at my destination
the snow was still falling heavily, and the mountains
which encircle the town gleamed white through the
morning mist as a rickety omnibus bumped along
the stone-cobbled streets and deposited me at the
door of the Hétel de l’Europe.

The object of my visit was to interview the
naturalists at the National Museum, to whom I had

introductions, in order to glean some information as
60

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 61

to the nesting-places of the Dalmatian Pelican
(Pelecanus crispus). 1 had come out with the
intention of finding, and photographing if possible,
this Pelican, and also the other European Pelican,
P. onocrotalus, as well as the rare and beautiful Great
White Heron (Avaea alba).

I suppose that, comparatively speaking, few of those
who see the Pelicans solemnly sitting round their
small pond in the gardens of the Zoological Society
have any idea that these great birds, so curious in
their structure and appearance, are still inhabitants
of Europe in this twentieth century. We think of
them almost instinctively as the ‘Pelican of the
wilderness,’ and associate with them the idea of vast
African lakes and the fever-laden banks of remote
tropical rivers, where the crocodiles crawl among
the mangrove stems, and stretch their scaly bodies
along the steaming mud-banks.

Needless to say, they are only to be found in the
most out-of-the-way parts of Wild Europe, far from
the haunts of man, and very far from any remnants
of civilization. This I was, of course, prepared for,
but the reality far exceeded my anticipations ; and
before I succeeded in photographing these birds at
home I was fated to spend a whole month in the
search, my travels being extended considerably
farther than I had expected.

Yet this can hardly be considered a disadvantage.

62 BIRD-HUNTING

Travelling in itself is pleasant enough; travelling
for any specified object adds enormously to the
interest. And the search after rare birds is a most
fascinating pursuit, inasmuch as it leads one of
necessity into the most out-of-the-way and therefore
the most interesting places, where the scenery is of
the finest, and where the people, if there are any at
all, are genuine representatives of their country,
unspoilt by the life of cities and by contact with the
ubiquitous tourist. The very difficulty of the pursuit
adds to the enjoyment of success; and if there is a
suspicion of danger attached to the work it gives
fresh zest to the whole.

At Serajevo one feels on the threshold of Eastern
Europe, and of another world; a world of strange
costumes and baggy breeches, and of Oriental ways
and customs, far removed from the frock-coated,
top-hatted world of the rest of Europe. And yet
we are still only in Austria—Austria, that is, to all
intents and purposes. For the Treaty of Berlin,
which played the game of General Post thirty years
ago in this part of Europe, gave the administration of
Bosnia, Dalmatia, and Herzegovina into the care of
Austria, and this country now practically governs them
as if they were her own. She has certainly spent
much money on railways and more on fortifications,
and her soldiers (in blue tights) are everywhere
present. There are banks, public buildings, and a

£9 aSng aonf of)

SLVOdA-TONVUO OLVTVdS

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 63

museum at Serajevo, and one hears much of the
prosperity of the country under Austrian rule. It
may be so, but whether the prosperity is for the
Austrian officials or for the inhabitants of the
country I know not. All I can say is, that never
in my life have I seen such depressed-looking, hope-
less, poverty-stricken people as I saw coming into the
town on market-day, driving sheep not much bigger
than terriers and ponies the size of a Newfoundland
dog, Clad in rags and tatters, and bearing in front
a leather band like a shelf—which looks as if origin-
ally intended to carry a battery of weapons ’—they
slouch along, with their feet wrapped up in shapeless
bundles of rags, exactly like the bears in the Zoo.
Very different is their bearing from that of the
free and independent Montenegrins, or the warlike
Albanians.

The mountains in the immediate neighbourhood
of the town are still inhabited by bears and wolves ;
and I heard that not only the great Eagle Owl
(Bubo maximus), but also the rare Ural Owl (Syrnzum
uvalensis) is to be found there. The abundance of
Jackdaws and Hooded Crows in the streets is very
noticeable, and I found them equally numerous
everywhere throughout the Balkans. At first it

1 Carrying arms is now prohibited, and the custom has been
stamped out after some hundreds have been hung for carrying
alone, but they still cling to the now useless belt.

64 BIRD-HUNTING

seemed strange to find these birds—which I had
always been accustomed to regard as northern birds
—down here so far south, and to see how tame and
familiar they are compared with the wariness and
caution they display in England. Here in the
streets, and on a piece of waste ground outside the
town used as a rubbish heap, it was quite easy to
walk within a few yards of them. On this same
waste ground were many Wheatears and flocks of
Tree Sparrows, while along the river-banks were
White and Yellow Wagtails and Sandpipers. A
few Sandmartins were skimming over the river on
April 4.

The museum has some good birds and mammals,
a group of Brown Bears killed in the mountains
about an hour’s journey from the town being
excellent. But the rooms are too small for large
groups to be displayed to advantage.

The railway from Serajevo to Gravosa, on the
Adriatic, is a fine bit of engineering, the line winding
round the mountains in zigzag curves. Through
Herzegovina especially the scenery is very im-
pressive. From the carriage window one sees a
constant succession of pictures of snow-clad moun-
tains, waterfalls, and rocky rivers. Occasionally an
Eagle may be seen suspended over the valleys, and
once a huge nest was seen ina small tree, not ten
feet from the ground, half-way up a steep hill-

GRAVOSA

CATTARO

(To face page 65

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 65

side, while a magnificent pair of Golden Eagles,
the probable owners of it, were searching the
surrounding country.

This line goes as far as Gravosa, on the Adriatic,
from which the steamers of the Austrian-Lloyd
Company run about twice a week to the various
ports down the coast.

The scenery of the Dalmatian coast is disappoint-
ing. Monotonous and depressing in the extreme
as it is, however, the frequent small ports are in-
teresting, and some of them picturesque. The
entrance into Cattaro, the famed Bocca di Cattaro,
is very fine. It is heavily fortified by Austria, and
photography is strictly forbidden on the boats. More
because it was forbidden than from any expectation
of doing any good, I tried to get some photographs
from the porthole of my cabin ; the results, however,
were not encouraging. Cattaro is the last Austrian
port, being at the southern extremity of Dalmatia,
close to the Montenegrin frontier. The next two
ports, Antivari and Dulcigno, belong to that country.
The latter of these, Dulcigno, was my destination,
for I had been advised at Serajevo to try there first
for Pelecanus crispus, as being safer than the neigh-
bouring country of Albania, whose inhabitants bear
a reputation not of the best. In fact, from what I
had heard, I had a decided unwillingness to have

anything more to do with them than I could possibly
5

66 BIRD-HUNTING

help. One never knows, however, what is to befall
one; and I was destined to see a good deal of Albania
and the Albanians before I had finished my quest.
My first landing on Montenegrin soil was a very
weird experience. Owing to a strong sirocco
wind, the steamer was unable to put into Dulcigno
itself, but was obliged to use an alternative landing-
place behind the hills which encircle the town, called
Val de Noche, always used when this particular
wind prevails. Here I was landed, the only
passenger, sitting on a tub in a large boat full of
cargo. On arrival at the pebbly beach at the end
of the inlet, where one solitary building was the
only sign of human habitation, I was received
by a band of half-naked savages, to all appearance,
capering in and out of the surf preparing to land
the cargo. One of these, as black as any negro,
landed me on his back. On the steamer J had just
left nobody had thought it necessary to tell me that
this was not Dulcigno itself, so that I found myself
alone with these men unable to speak a single word
which they could understand or to understand any
word of theirs, and without the faintest notion
where Dulcigno was situated, how far it was, or
how to reach it. Above all, I did not know then,
as I found out later, that a stranger in Montenegro,
more especially an Englishman, is perfectly safe,
that theft and robbery or brigandage is absolutely

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 67

unknown, and that the huge revolvers worn
universally are only used in avenging private
vendettas, in their feuds with their ancient enemies
the Albanians, and in saluting parting friends. All
this I had to find out, and I must say that this first
experience was by no means pleasant. However,
by signs I managed to engage two men and a
couple of horses to convey my baggage to the
town. As the heavily laden horses toiled uphill
through the olive-woods my men, two of the
wildest-looking rascals I had ever beheld, beguiled
the way with song and laughter, while I walked
with them in perfect ignorance of what was going
to happen. After an hour’s journey over narrow,
rocky mountain-paths we reached a small town of
grey stone houses built irregularly round the small
bay. Then, after descending a narrow, stony road
or lane, my conductors halted in front of a building
which proved to be the custom-house. The official,
a burly man in the national costume of crimson gold-
edged jacket, baggy blue breeches, and top-boots,
with the inevitable revolver stuck in a_ scarlet
sash, passed all my things without the slightest
bother, and I was free to proceed. The only
inn appeared to be a small building pleasantly
situated on the beach, and here I engaged a room—
at least I got my things carried up there—and
obtained something to eat and drink; but as for

68 BIRD-HUNTING

making any arrangement about terms, that was far
beyond my powers. However, as soon as I had
settled down and finished my repast, I went forth
to try to find the house of one of the chief men in
the town, to whom the Austrian consul at Antivari
had given me an introduction. He also was dressed
in the national costume, and a handsome old fellow
he looked. Tall, as are all the Montenegrins, with
an imposing, aristocratic presence, his beetling brows
and strong, hooked nose gave him the appearance
of some fierce bird of prey. He accorded me a
most courteous reception, while I explained, as
well as I could, my reasons for visiting his country.
Unfortunately, he could speak very little French,
and of course no English, but promised to do what
he could to assist me. This promise was very soon
redeemed, for shortly after my return to ‘mine inn’
he brought to my room a law student who spoke
most excellent French: indeed, I soon found that
he knew and spoke fluently nearly every European
language except English and Spanish.

It is quite a common thing in these countries
of Eastern Europe to find, not only among the
educated classes, but among the ordinary working
population, people who speak fluently two or three
languages besides their own. This is not a
question of education at all, for the majority have
never had any, but they have acquired from their

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infancy, instead of one language, the two or three
which have happened to be generally used around
them. Italian, for instance, is the language of the
Adriatic generally, the sailors’ language, from the
small coasting craft, which make such a picturesque
feature in all the small ports on both shores of the
Adriatic, to the large steamers of the Austrian-
Lloyd, and the Ungaro-Croatia, on board of which
Italian is the official language. Shipping, of course,
means trade; and in consequence Italian is the
most universally spoken language all down the
coast, and for some considerable distance inland.
In fact, it is so indispensable that, previous to my
second visit to these parts, I took some lessons in
Italian, and in consequence enjoyed my travelling
much more, was considerably more independent,
and saved a great deal of expense. French is also
useful, but only in the towns, among the officials,
the consuls, and the higher classes. Among the
fishermen, boatmen, and the working people whom
I have to engage as guides and carriers, French is
quite useless, as is English. People who say that
they can travel all over the world with English
should visit some of the places in these countries,
and they would find themselves very much at sea
if they knew no other language. On all the regular
routes, and in towns visited by tourists, English
serves well enough all over the world. On the

70 BIRD-HUNTING

steamer lines in the Adriatic, for example, the
captains, and generally several of the officers, speak
English. In fact, unless they can speak English,
French, and German, as well as Italian, there is
no chance of their obtaining a captain’s certificate—
this being one of the rules of the Austrian-Lloyd
Company. But once off the steamer English is
perfectly useless until Corfu is reached. This, of
course, belonged to England for many years until
restored to Greece some thirty years ago. And
in some of the small south Albanian ports opposite
Corfu, where English sportsmen go regularly for
Woodcock and Wild Boar shooting, doubtless some
English might be understood by the natives.

German is the official language from Trieste to
Cattaro, the southernmost port of Dalmatia being
that country under the sway of Austria. Indeed,
there is great rivalry between Austria and Italy, not
only in language, but in politics and trade. Each
country is doing all it can to push its own trade, its
own influence, and its own language to the front.
Both countries, and, in a lesser degree, Greece also,
are undoubtedly looking forward to the time when
the Turk shall be pushed back still farther south,
and are preparing by all the means in their power
to step into the vacant territory.

Montenegro, with its own ambitions of a Servian
kingdom, has so far preserved its independence, but

SPALATO

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THROUGH WILD EUROPE 71

fears and hates Austria almost as much as it does
its hereditary enemies the Turk and the Albanian ;
but in Albania, the most northern Turkish possession,
Italy and Austria are openly vying with each other
in extending their sphere of influence.

In Albanian towns there are Italian and Austrian
schools which almost pay children to come and be
educated. As far as language goes, however, Austria
is at an immense disadvantage, for German taught
in the schools can never hope to ‘compete with
Italian picked up spontaneously by the people in
their daily lives.

The Jews in these countries were originally of
Spanish extraction, so that it is not at all unusual to
find Spanish spoken.

In Montenegro the people are Serbs, and Servian
is the national language. In Albania the officials
are Turks, so that two quite distinct languages are
spoken. Farther south Greek begins to be in much
use. So that it is not very surprising to find amid
all these complexities of race and language a poly-
glot people who speak fluently from three to seven
or eight different tongues.

IV

THE QUEST OF THE PELICAN : MONTENEGRO

Wiru the assistance of the law student before
referred to, M. Saverias Djouraschkovitch, I began
to make preparations for my search. The first thing
was to find somebody who knew the country and
the best localities for birds, and I presently engaged
a certain Nikola, who had been recommended to me
as a great chasseur, for four crowns a day (Austrian
currency seems to be in general use here).

On the roth of April I began operations by a visit
to the mouth of a river about twenty miles off, where
I was told Pelicans were generally to be seen.

A pack-horse was engaged to carry cameras and
my sleeping-bag and rugs, while Nikola, Djourasch-
kovitch, and I walked. Nikola carried my small
collecting gun, of which he had taken possession as
a matter of course, and a fine Hobby having been
seen in a tree soon after we had passed the town, I
sent him after it to see what he could do. After
missing it twice he came back without the bird. As
a chasseur Nikola was certainly a failure, for he was

a bad shot both with my gun and his own, a
72

PACK-HORSES

FERRY

MONTENEGRIN

[To face page 73

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 73

dilapidated double muzzle-loader fastened together
with string and wire, with a bit of stick for a ram-
rod. My gun, adouble ‘410, wasa mistake. While
too small for very large birds, it shot so close that
it was very difficult to hit a small bird, and when
it did, the bird was generally knocked to bits and
spoilt as a specimen. I certainly made some good
and long shots with it at the larger Herons and
Hawks, but I should not like to say how many
were missed.

Goldfinches and many other small birds were
very numerous in the fields on each side of our
road, and on the banks of a small, navigable river,
which we crossed in a very primitive ferryboat
wound up by a rope, were many Sandpipers
(Zotanus hypoleucus). Magpies flew constantly over
the fields and perched. on the roadside trees, in
which were many half-finished nests. Hooded Crows
were also nesting, but the most advanced. nest at
this date only contained one egg. As we neared
our destination birds began to be more plentiful,
many Godwits feeding in the swampy places, while
Marsh Harriers flew over the plains; and once we
saw a very light-coloured Harrier, either Cyaneus or
Palhdus, sweeping to and fro over a small marsh.

A pair of Sea Eagles then flew past us, and
presently I saw three large, heavily-built birds flying
low down, with their heads drawn back and large

fee BIRD-HUNTING

beaks projecting in front. They were unmistakably
Pelicans, the first I had ever seen in a wild state.
It seemed a good omen for this first day of actual
search, and my hopes began to rise. Seeing birds,
however, is one thing, and photographing them is
something very different. I knew this well enough
before from many a bitter experience, and the
present case was to prove no exception to the
rule.
‘ On arrival at a small village mostly inhabited
by Albanians we had something to eat, while
a boat was got ready with three men, as the
current is of exceptional strength. Two of these
men were armed with magazine rifles, for we
were now on the frontier, where there is a con-
stant state of hostility, and bloodshed is a com-
mon occurrence. The revolver is a part of the
national costume in Montenegro, and is always
worn even in the towns, but along the frontier the
rifle is also almost universally carried. These are
Mausers provided by Russia, and every able-bodied
Montenegrin has one, and is expected to turn out
in case of need. They are but a small and poor
nation, but are always under arms. I was told that
even the unmarried girls over a certain age have
rifles served out to them, and are trained in their
use.

At the mouth of the river we saw several Pelicans

PELICANS SWIMMING

PELICANS (PELECANUS CRISPUS)
{Zoface page 75

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 75

busy fishing in the sea, while others were resting on
the sand digesting their last meal of fish, They
were exceedingly shy, however, and it was impos-
sible to approach within about 4oo yards, and
at a quarter of that range even a Pelican is im-
possible to photograph with the telephoto lens,
while with an ordinary lens it would be nearly
invisible. I hardly knew where to look for nests,
some information I had received leading me to
suppose that they nested among reeds, while these
people here assured me they nested on the sand at
the water’s edge. But as we were divided in the
search over a sandy tract with pools of water,
bushes, and swamps, suddenly three men armed
with magazine carbines and Martini rifles were seen
coming towards us. Their attitude did not appear
to be friendly, and Djouraschkovitch seemed inclined
to avoid them; but as we were in full sight, and
meeting them was perfectly inevitable, I thought it
best to put on a bold face and see what they
wanted. It seemed that we were on a disputed
tract of land, claimed by both Montenegro and
Albania, in consequence of the altered course of the
river, which had shifted its bed—as rivers occasion-
ally do—some years previously. As I was accom-
panied by Montenegrins, these Albanians, seeing
my camera, thought we were surveying, or taking
some steps towards seizing or fortifying the place,

76 BIRD-HUNTING

and they told us very plainly, through Djouraschko-
vitch, who acted as interpreter, to go. During the
discussion one of them, an evil-looking ruffian, the
most unprepossessing of the three, all of whom
looked very murderous blackguards, sat down and
deliberately pointed his loaded rifle at my head
at a distance of about six yards. I have often
wondered since what his intention was; I don't
know whether he meant to shoot, or whether, per-
haps, he thought to frighten me. At any rate I
took it as a joke, and, turning my camera at him,
pretended ‘to take his photograph. I wish I had
done so in reality, it would have been an interesting
photograph to have, but, unfortunately, I had no
plate ready at the time for instant action.

However, we had to go, there was no help for
it; and after seeing the Pelicans of which I was in
search, further pursuit of them had to be abandoned,
at all events in this particular locality, and we
returned the next day to the town.

My quarters in the little inn proved to be very
comfortable, and the cooking, though plain and
simple, was good. The mutton from the small
sheep of the country, fed on the salt marshes near
the sea, was excellent, and the wine good and
cheap. It being Lent, my men absolutely refused
to touch meat or wine, and ate only bread and
vegetables enough to keep themselves alive. The

STREEL SCENE, DULCIGNO

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THROUGH WILD EUROPE a

religion here is that of the Greek Church, and fast-
ing is rigorously carried out. The consequence is
that towards the end of Lent the men are quite
unfit for a good day’s work.

On Easter Day they make calls on all their
friends and acquaintances, stopping a few minutes
to drink a glass of wine, and to take away one or
two Easter eggs, dyed red, in the pocket. With
these eggs they play a game resembling that
engaged in by English boys with chestnuts, tapping
one egg against the other until the weaker one is
cracked ; and the same custom is found in Albania,
as it is among the boys in Cumberland to-day. I
was invited by Djouraschkovitch to his home on
purpose to see the proceedings. There was a con-
stant succession of arrivals, each of whom was
served with a glass of wine and a plate of hard-
boiled eggs stained in colours, mostly red. The
wine, as a rule, was only sipped, and the greater
part left. A snuffy little priest, however, had
evidently done more than sip, or else he had had
a larger round of acquaintances to visit, for he was
decidedly jovial, as he saluted everybody present
with three kisses on the cheek. I tried to get off
with one, but there was no escape. I met him again
later in the day at another house, but, luckily, he re-
membered having saluted me before, and contented
himself with a handshake, much to my relief.

78 = BIRD-HUNTING

Dulcigno is, I think, the most, or at all events
one of the most, picturesque places I have ever
seen. At one end of the small bay, and dominating
the harbour, stands the old Venetian castle, or its
ruins, one of the many memorials along this Adriatic
coast of the long-vanished supremacy of Venice.
This is now a curious collection of ruined buildings,
and small houses made out of their materials, inter-
sected by narrow, tortuous passages and rocky
stairways, and crowned at the highest part by a
ruined church. It is a perfect human warren; even
the roofless, windowless cellars sheltering crowds
of half-naked people, whose eyes glare at you out of
the darkness of their noisome abodes like those of
wild and unclean animals, while their muttered curses
at the intruder follow him as he stumbles and slips
along the rock-hewn paths. Myriads of Jackdaws
nest in the crevices of the walls, and also in the rocks.

At the other extremity is the modest villa of the
Prince of Montenegro, perched on the top of a low
cliff, and surrounded by trees. Between the two is
the beach, the road along which forms the chief
promenade of the inhabitants, and two or three
buildings, which include the Turkish Consulate
and the small inn in which I stayed, l’Albergo
Athanase. But the principal attraction to me was
the bazaar, the main street, where the shops were
collected together. On bazaar day, or market day,

MELITZA—A MONTENEGRIN GIRL

DULCIGNO

(To face page 79

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 79

the people poured in from all the country round
until the narrow street was packed full of men
and women in the most extraordinary variety of
costumes I had ever seen. It was just like stepping
backward into the Middle Ages, only instead of
carrying sword and spear the men are armed with
huge revolvers and rifles. One man had in his
waistcloth a very handsome silver-handled sword.
I was told it had been presented by the Russian
Government for having cut off a Turk’s head in
the late war. He had evidently lost an eye over
the job, but looked immensely proud of himself.

The Montenegrin costume is handsome enough,
but the Albanians are more picturesque and fantastic
in their attire. It would be a great chance for a
figure artist in search of new subjects to come and
stop here for two or three or six months. He
would get abundance of new material in the way of
costume, colour, and a type of humanity quite fresh
to the picture galleries overcrowded with Italian
and Egyptian subjects.

Albanian mountaineers, with black jackets tufted
heavily with black worsted, their national white fez
with headcloth, and thick, white felt trousers cut
tight, with fantastic stripes of broad, black braid
down the outside and inside of each leg; venerable
Turks, Bosniacs, negroes, Turkish women in
shapeless camel-hair cloaks with enormous hoods,

80 BIRD-HUNTING

their faces entirely covered with semi-transparent
veils, hideously striped with grotesque daubs of
black and yellow; and rough, shaggy ponies loaded
with firewood,—all jostle one another in the narrow
street, and collect in crowds round the open shops,
where the various artisans ply their handicraft,
squatting cross-legged on the floor.

Here there is a blind minstrel surrounded by a
listening crowd as he plays on the guza, or one-
stringed guitar, and sings ballads about the brave
deeds of his countrymen against the hated Turk. It
isa melancholious and monotonous instrument, some-
what akin to the African tom-tom, but the subject
of his verses fills with enthusiasm the hearts of his
hearers, and the coins collect in his cap placed beside
him on the ground.

Farther on a group of women squat cross-legged
on the ground, with various goods for sale placed in
front of them. They are Mohammedans, and are
carefully muffled up to the eyes in flowing white
draperies. At my approach, intent on photograph-
ing the picturesque and curious group, they bend
forwards until their heads almost touch the ground,
so that I shall see as little as possible ; women
standing outside the shops looking for bargains
take refuge in the dark interiors as soon as they see
me; while the Turkish ladies, on seeing a stranger
approach, sidle along with their faces turned towards

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THROUGH WILD EUROPE 81

the wall and away from the unbeliever. This is
perhaps wise on their part, for anything more
hideous and ghastly—not to say devilish—than
their appearance it is impossible to imagine. I
think it was Mark Twain who said that he could
never understand why Mohammedan women should
cover their faces so carefully until one day he saw
one unveiled by chance, then he understood. If it
was not Mark Twain who made this remark it
ought to have been, for it is quite characteristic of
him. However that may be, Turkish children are
very often remarkably pretty, with oval faces, and
large, lustrous eyes heavily fringed with long eye-
lashes. But their appearance is generally spoilt by
the fact that their hair is stained a fiery red with
lime, and their fingers stained yellow with henna.

The Montenegrin women do not cover their faces.
They wear the same small, red, gold and black
forage cap as the men, a plain blue skirt, and a long
white or blue sleeveless jacket. The younger women
often have their black hair hanging down in two
tails, which in the older ones are generally wound
round the forehead like a coronet, and a very
effective fashion it is, and one which suits well their
strong and often noble-looking faces. They are a
fine people, both men and women.

The trade seems to be chiefly in the hands of

Turks, and there are at least three or four mosques
6

82 BIRD-HUNTING

in the place.1 One of them is just opposite my
window, and | can hear the muezzin call the faithful
to prayers as I lie in bed in the morning. The
people who flock into the town on bazaar days are
chiefly Albanians, who appear to occupy and culti-
vate much ‘of the land around. It speaks volumes
for the Montenegrin rule that these people, naturally
so antagonistic, can mingle together as harmoniously
as they do on Montenegrin soil. It is also curious
that the Albanians appear to thrive, while poverty
drives the Montenegrins to emigrate to the United
States at the rate, I was told, of 500 a week, there
to work in the mines of California.

I have seen many parties of these poor people
embarking, with their small bundles of possessions,
bravely enough, with songs and fusillades of revolver
shots. I have also been behind the scenes, as it
were, and have accompanied them in their march
over the hills, through the olive-woods, which they
were seeing for the last time. I have watched
these stalwart men singing with the tears running
down their faces, and sobbing like children when
the moment of parting arrived. On these occasions
half the population of the town turns out to give
them a good send-off, and the consumption of
cartridges for their revolver salutes is considerable.

1 Dulcigno was originally a Turkish port, and was only captured
by Montenegro about thirty years ago.

i
'

ee ee ie.

TURKISH MOSQUE AND RUINED CASTLE, DULCIGNO
[To face page 82

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 83

The first search for a nesting-place of Pelicans
having been frustrated, another locality was visited,
of which I had received information in Serajevo.
This was a lake not far from the town, but difficult
of access, from the extraordinary strong current,
against which it was almost impossible to force the
rude, dug-out canoe we had borrowed for the occa-
sion. At last, after great exertion, we succeeded in
navigating the narrow but impetuous stream, and
found ourselves in a small lake with a thick growth
of tall reeds all round, leaving an open space in the
middle. There were immense numbers of Coots
and White-eyed Ducks. Purple Herons were carry-
ing sticks and evidently beginning their nesting
arrangements in the reeds, but all our search failed
to find any sign of Pelicans or their nests. Marsh
Harriers were numerous, and observing one sitting
on what appeared from a distance to be a nest, we
rowed towards it. The supposed nest, however,
was only a pile of reeds ; but to make sure, | got
out of the boat and waded into the reed-bed to
make a more thorough search. Not many yards
from where the Harrier had been first seen a
curious-looking object was observed on the surface
of the water. As I approached nearer this looked
like a dead bird; still nearer it was seen to be a
Little Bittern, but alive, and crouching motion-
less in a very unbirdlike attitude. I remembered

84 BIRD-HUNTING

having read that this bird had sometimes allowed itself
to be caught in the hand, and so I approached through
the deep water, nearly up to my waist, very slowly
and cautiously until within arm’s length. Then, by a
quick movement, I succeeded in grasping it by the
neck. In truth I was almost as much astonished as
the bird at such a curious capture, perhaps more so,
for it showed neither surprise nor fear, but sat on my
knee, after returning to the boat, quite contentedly,
without making the least attempt to escape.

A few days after this second unsuccessful search
I received a letter from an English lady I had met
on the steamer before arriving at Dulcigno, to say
that she had mentioned my quest after Pelicans to
the Austrian Consul at Durazzo in Albania. He
had told her that Pelicans were numerous there,
close to the town—in fact, that they were visible
from his windows with the aid of a glass, and that
if I liked to come he would be very glad to put me
up and assist me to the best of his ability.

This offer, so unexpected, coming from a com-
plete stranger, was as welcome as it was unlooked
for. In fact, it relieved me of so much doubt as to
what I should do next that I wrote at once to say
that I should come as soon as I possibly could. |
packed up all my belongings, lost no time in board-
ing the next steamer bound for the Albanian ports,
and started off to see my unknown friend.

(To face page 84

LITTLE BITTERN (ARDETTA MINUTA)

Vv

THE QUEST OF THE PELICAN : ALBANIA

THE traveller arriving at a Turkish port must be
prepared for unpleasantness. Unable to speak the
language, I was not long in finding out the difference
between the manners of Montenegrin and Turkish
customs officials, and very soon found myself in
difficulties. The whole of my luggage was opened
and subjected to a vigorous search, and all my goods
and chattels were quickly scattered over the floor in
inextricable confusion, while the Turkish officials
were busy confiscating my gun and all the cartridges.
Then they came on several gross of photographic
dry-plates, and proceeded to commence opening
them to see what they contained. The previous
proceedings had sufficiently exasperated me, but
this was more than I could stand.- How I managed
to stop them I hardly know to this day; but by
very vigorous expostulations I did manage to stay
proceedings, and induced one of the bystanders—
for by this time a considerable crowd had collected
—to take my card to the Consul and request him to

come to my assistance.
85

86 BIRD-HUNTING

Judge of my relief when, a very few minutes
afterwards, a cheery voice shouted out from the
doorway, and in perfect English too, ‘Hullo, Mr.
Lodge! what can I do for you?’ The obvious
reply was to beg him to get me out of this bother
as soon as possible; and in ‘less than no time’ my
things were bundled back into the portmanteaux
and boxes, and I was on my way to the Consulate
with my new friend. The gun and cartridges had
to be left for the time being, but they were restored
two or three days later.

This was my first introduction to Baron B F
the Austrian Consul, the best sportsman and most
jovial companion I ever had the good luck to meet
anywhere. A keen naturalist, good shot, and full
of enthusiasm for whatever he undertook, I could
not possibly have met a man better qualified to help
me in my difficult search ; for besides his power as
Consul, he spoke fluently all the languages and
dialects of the country—Servian, Turkish, Italian,
and Albanian, besides German, Magyar, French,
and English.

On arrival at the Consulate he lost no time in
fulfilling his promise to show me Pelicans from his
windows. Sure enough, with a prism binocular, |
could see on the lagoon beyond the town seven or
eight Pelicans resting on a small island, and after
lunch we walked out to see them nearer.

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 87

Durazzo lagoon is a large sheet of shallow, brackish
water stretching behind the town, and divided from
the sea at each end by a narrow strip of sand. It is
surrounded by marshy ground, behind which lie
forests, and behind them, on the landward side, high
mountains, on which the snows lie unmelted until
May. There are a few fish, but apparently not
enough to attract the attention of many fishermen ;
and as there are many low islands covered with
samphire and other plants, and an extensive reed-
bed at one end, it is an ideal place for ducks and all
kinds of wading and water birds. Plenty of feeding
ground, shallow water, small fish, quietness, and
cover for resting in during the day—what more could
water-fowl desire? and in consequence they were
there in immense numbers. And, above all, there
were the Pelicans, which my host believed to nest
on the lagoon.

It was quickly decided to start work on the very
next day, and I turned in to bed that night with
great hopes for the morrow, confident that success
could not be far off with such efficient assistance.

Next morning we set off on horseback, having
sent on previously Marco, the kavass, and another
man, with the camera and belongings, with orders
to wait for us at a certain point which seemed to be
the best place at which to hide up while B
tried to drive the birds round to me.

88 BIRD-HUNTING

This first day was conclusive proof to me of the
sort of man I had come across; for no sooner had
we finished making a rude hiding-place for me at
the extremity of the point than he plunged gaily
into the lagoon and commenced his long and arduous
drive. Waist-deep in water he waded across and
across, dodging behind islands, and sometimes lying
flat on one of them, driving and turning them with
consummate skill. But Pelicans are kittle cattle
to drive, and, in spite of some hours of hard work,
only once did they approach me within 1,000 yards.
Then I did a long range telephotograph of two
of them on a small islet about 400 yards away,
knowing perfectly well all the time that I was only
wasting a plate. However, I would have wasted
willingly a gross of plates rather than run any risk
of even appearing to lose an opportunity obtained
by so much labour.

To make a long story short, and to save re-
cording unnecessary and trivial details, we spent a
fortnight searching the whole of the lagoon, wading
to all the numerous islets, exploring the reed-beds,
watching the lagoon from the neighbouring hills
with powerful glasses, and trying every plan we
could think of. It was impossible, however, to get
the better of their incessant watchfulness and to
approach them within a reasonable distance, or
to find out where they were nesting. I even tried

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 89

the plan of hiding a camera overnight on one of the
islets much favoured by them, connecting the shutter
with an electric battery in such a way that the
slightest touch on a silk thread stretched along
the ground would release it and make the expo-
sure, in the hope that in the early morning one of
them might unsuspectingly photograph itself without
knowing anything about it. But all in vain.

The worst of it was that I seriously began to
doubt whether the Pelicans were in the habit of
nesting there at all. I had noticed from the first
that nearly all the birds were in immature plumage,
and I suspected strongly that, though there probably
was a breeding colony somewhere not far off, the birds
here were not breeding. This supposition was con-
firmed by a family of fishermen and gunners who
lived near the shore, who declared that they had not
nested in the lagoon for many years. (These men
showed us a box of dark yellow fat from a Pelican,
which they declared was first-rate stuff for rheuma-
tism.) But if we did no good with the Pelicans
we had some most interesting experiences with
other birds, and some of my pleasantest memories
are connected with Durazzo lagoon and the
surrounding country.

What delightful days were spent with gun and
camera, sometimes accompanied by B , and
sometimes, when he was prevented by his Consular

go BIRD-HUNTING

duties, alone! Not the least enjoyable part of the
day’s programme were the glorious gallops we had
on our way there. There was generally a man sent
on ahead with the cameras and luncheon basket,
who brought back the horses, bringing them again
for us at the close of the day.

Luckily (for me) the Baron was a bachelor, and so
we were free to spend the evenings in our own way,
skinning and preparing the slain, and identifying
doubtful species. B had in his library the
latest edition of Naumann, with large, coloured
plates. These volumes were constantly consulted,
and were most useful in settling questions under
discussion,

Among the ducks seen on this water were
Mallard, Teal, Wigeon, Shoveler, Sheldrake, White-
eyed Pochard, Gadwall, and Pintail—all these in
immense numbers. There were also great flocks of
Coots and Spoonbills, Grey Herons, Little Egrets,
occasionally Great White Herons, Avocets, Curlew,
Redshanks, Night Herons, Snipe, Ringed Plovers,
Kentish Plovers, Green Plovers, and many others
swimming and wading about in the shallow water
and feeding on the muddy shores. The great
Yellow-legged Herring Gull floated overhead, uttering
his curious laugh, and numberless Marsh Harriers
quartered the reeds and skimmed over the water,
intent on eggs or helpless young birds, frogs, or

THROUGH WILD EUROPE gI

whatever else they could find; and almost daily we
could see a magnificent pair of Sea Eagles hunting
for their daily food over marsh and hillside.

Booted Eagles, Bonelli’s Eagle, and Short-toed
or Snake Eagles I had seen before in Spain; but
the Sea Eagle was a new species in my experience,
and as such all the more interesting.

One day we had a splendid view of both birds
at close range as they quartered the reed-beds ; both
male and female had perfectly white tails, and in
the bright sun we could see every feather in their
plumage through our glasses. It was a splendid
sight, and we began to make plans for a search for
their nest in a neighbouring forest, where we felt
sure they must be breeding. The large flocks of
Coots on the lagoon seemed to be a great attraction
for them, and we often saw their attacks, and from
a very considerable distance could hear the roar
made by thousands of terrified Coots and Ducks
rising from the water in a huge black mass. Doubt-
less many of the nearer birds would dive to avoid
the “stoop” of the Eagle, that being the method
generally ascribed to these birds in evading similar
attacks, but this we were always too far away
to witness. Gulls also form part of their prey.
On one occasion I found the nest of a Yellow-
legged Herring Gull (Larus cachinnans) which
contained three eggs and the freshly-severed head

92 BIRD-HUNTING

of the bird. A perfect cloud of feathers lay
by the nest, showing where the body had been
devoured. From the size and strength of the victim,
which has a spread of wing of nearly five feet, the
aggressor could have been nothing less than one
of this pair of Eagles, The head was afterwards
carried off, before I could fetch the camera to
photograph the scene of the tragedy, by a Marsh
Harrier; but no Harrier would have the pluck to
attack a bird far heavier and stronger than itself.
Another time we saw the Eagle swoop at something
on the other side of a low point of land, and on
rowing to the spot found a freshly-killed Black-
headed Gull, which the Eagle had left where it lay
on seeing our approach.

An attempt was made to photograph these
Eagles, which are also very fond of carrion, by
laying out on one of the islands a large dog which
we bought and killed. Focused on the carcase,
and carefully hidden among the herbage, the auto-
matic electric camera was placed, the shutter of
which was connected to the dog’s hind leg by a
fine thread. This was left out all night, but our
hopes of an automatic photograph were doomed to
disappointment, for neither Eagles nor Vultures came
near it, so far as we could tell, and the carcase was
eventually disposed of by the humble but necessary

‘ gentile.’

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On most of the islands in the lagoon was a nest
of Larus cachinnans, but never did we see more
than one nest on each island. Here, at all events,
it appeared to be solitary in its breeding habits, and
too distrustful of the predatory instincts of its own
kind to nest in close proximity to one another. In
like manner our Great Black-backed Gull, instead
of nesting in colonies, like its smaller relatives,
prefers to nest, each pair by itself, generally on the
summit of some rock island. The three eggs were
indistinguishable from eggs of the Herring Gull
(Larus argentatus). The birds also are similar,
with the exception of their bright yellow legs and
feet : those of the Herring Gull being flesh coloured.

Another conspicuous though much smaller bird
on these islands, as well as along the shores of the
lagoon, was the lovely little Black-headed Yellow
Wagtail (Motacilla atricapilla). All the Wagtails
are very graceful and very beautiful, the Grey
Wagtail being perhaps the most elegant of our
British Wagtails, though daintiness and elegance
are the chief characteristics of the whole Wagtail
family. But the strong contrast afforded by the
jet black head and the bright yellow breast of this
bird made it particularly striking and noticeable.
They were very common, flitting about from one
tall plant to another, and evidently beginning to
breed; but though I searched carefully several

94 BIRD-HUNTING

times I was quite unable to find anest. Possibly
they had not yet commenced to build. That was
the opinion I formed at the time, and it was
probably correct, for the male birds were pursuing
the hens, as though they were still busy pairing.

The Common Terns (Sterna fluviatehs) and
Lesser Terns (Sterna minuta) were also in
possession of their breeding-ground, and evidently
about to begin; but up to nearly the end of April
I could find no eggs, though they were very excited
and clamorous, in the usual Tern fashion, all the time
I was searching.

A Reeve (Machetes pugnax) was shot out of a
flock on April 25, and a Wood Sandpiper (Zotanus
glareola) out of another small flock feeding in a
tamarisk swamp on April 26. In this same swamp
was a Magpie’s nest with six eggs.

On the same day | shot four Little Stints (Zringa
minuta) out of a large number which swept past my
hiding-place. These were all on migration on
their way to Northern Europe, the Little Stints
bound for far-distant Siberian tundras, where they
will spend the short summer in nesting operations
and return southwards again in the autumn.

This coast is, of course, famous for the great
numbers of Woodcock which pass up and down,
to and from their more northern breeding-quarters.
Southern Albania, opposite Corfu, is well known to

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 95

many English sportsmen, who resort there regularly
for the excellent Woodcock shooting and also for
an occasional Wild Boar.

Here, my friend B , the Greek Consul, and
one or two more, have the Woodcock shooting all
to themselves, and very good sport they have some-
times. I can well remember his old Transylvanian
shooting-cap, very much bashed in and broken at
the crown, but with four or five rows of the small
pin feathers from the wings of the Woodcock which
had fallen to his gun fixed all round the hat. He
had an excellent dog, a large English pointer, which
was not only worth his weight in gold as a sporting
dog, more especially for Woodcock, but was a most
faithful friend and companion. Poor old Nero! I
was very sorry to hear of his untimely death after
my return home, because I knew well how much
he would be missed. He was a very gentlemanly
dog and exceedingly dignified in manner, while his
exploits, both in love and war, were numerous and
sometimes amusing. He was the biggest pointer,
I think, I have ever seen; and his height and
strength were of great service in forcing his way
through the tangled Albanian coverts after the
‘cock,’ while in his frequent fights it enabled him to
hold his own against great odds. I have often seen
him attacked by three or four of the town dogs at
once, and he always came out of the ‘scrap’ with

96 BIRD-HUNTING

honour, though not invariably without wounds, for
he was covered with the scars of old battles.

It takes a good dog to hold his own against
these dogs of Albania. They are like wolves in
size and fierceness, and are exceedingly dangerous,
for they attack a stranger with great determination.
Often I have only kept them at a distance, after
much difficulty, with the butt end of a gun.
Perhaps the best way with all dogs is to throw
stones. Even stooping as if to pick up a stone
where there are none to pick up, very often suffices
to make them turn tail when everything else fails.
Sometimes I have had the satisfaction of sending
them to the right about, howling, with a well-directed
stone; and once to my great delight I knocked the
forelegs of one from under it with a half-brick, and
sent it head over heels: this was in passing through
a Roumanian village, where the dogs are nearly
as big a nuisance as in Albania. But whatever
happens you must not shoot one. I have heard of
men who have been killed in retaliation for having
shot a dog in self-defence. They are greatly valued
by their owners, who depend upon them to guard
their flocks and herds from wolves in the winter
months. The most you can do in case of need is
to knife them. It is at all events a sign of close
quarters, and consequent necessity, and even then
there would be trouble, and a big claim for

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THROUGH WILD EUROPE 97

compensation, if nothing worse. I have often felt to
make sure that the handle of the big hunting-knife
I always carried with my revolver was within reach
and ready for use. On one occasion, while our
boat was towing on the Danube, a big brute of a
dog attacked the men on the bank with the tow-
rope so savagely that I fired one barrel of my gun,
striking the ground just in front of its nose. Even
then it only retired very reluctantly and growling
horribly.

Besides the birds mentioned as belonging more
exclusively to the lagoon, during April we saw
many Blue Tits, Great Tits, Blackbirds, Missel
Thrushes, Thrushes, Magpies, Rooks, Hooded
Crows, Ravens, and Jackdaws. These last in-
habited in great numbers the old Castle, and also
the castle ruins at Dulcigno. Many of these Jack-
daws appearing to be very light about the neck, |
shot a series, and found them with more or less
distinct whitish edges to the grey patch on the
neck. As there is a supposed sub-species in Mace-
donia (Corvus monedula var. collarts) | preserved
the skins of nearly a dozen in case they approached
this form. I should say that it is merely a varia-
tion, by no means constant: some having the white
collar much more distinct than others. A photograph
of two perched on the roof of a neighbouring house

shows the white rings fairly well.
7

98 BIRD-HUNTING

They were very tame and familiar, nesting in the
house-roofs and town walls, and walking about the
streets, so I tried ground baiting the roof adjacent
to the Consulate with bread for a few days, leaving a
box covered over with a cloth, where I intended to
place the camera. Then when they came freely the
camera was placed in position on the parapet, with
a string, and while I sat with a book in an open
doorway, old Mirto, the other kavass, kept watch,
and gave me notice when they were near.

There were two kavasses attached to the Con-
sulate: Mirto, a Turk, and Marco, an Albanian.
The former generally was on duty in the house
and about the town. When making calls on the
governor, or at any of the other consulates, Mirto
walked ahead with a big brass-handled stick, and a
pair of enormous silver-mounted revolvers in his
waistband, while after dusk he carried a large
lantern. Marco nearly always accompanied us on
our excursions farther afield, and whenever I waited
hidden up to photograph Pelicans he was always
lying concealed among the bushes within hail, with
his magazine carbine loaded and ready in case of
any trouble.

In Albania there is very little protection from law
either for life or property. You have to protect
yourself, and nobody moves outside the towns, and
not often inside, without being armed. While in

t

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Scutari, the secretary to the Austrian Consulate
dined with me one evening at my.hotel. During
dinner he talked much of the safety of the town,
and declared that all statements as to its insecurity
and danger were greatly exaggerated. When it
was time to go he suddenly disappeared, and after
some time we found him trying to dorrow a revolver
Srom the landlord to go home with, as he had for-
gotten his own! He positively refused to go home
without one, though he had barely 100 yards to
go to reach his own house. In fact, it wasn’t
much more than across the road.

Bribery is rampant among the officials, from the
highest to the lowest, and murder can be committed
with impunity as far as arrest or trial is concerned,
provided the murderer can take a sufficient back-
sheesh to the authorities. There is some excuse,
therefore, for the custom of the vendetta which
obtains here universally. Everybody avenges his
own injuries, as well as protects his own life. In
the event of a murder the friends and relatives are
bound in honour to exact another life for the blood
that has been shed. If the actual offender can be
slain, why, so much the better; but sooner than
have nothing to show in revenge they will kill the
nearest relative they can get at. In this way it is
dangerous to be one of a large family, because if
your brother should kill anybody and escape you

100 BIRD-HUNTING

may have to pay the penalty. Among some of the
mountain tribes, it is allowable to kill anybody from
the same village. Probably this is a practical equiva-
lent to killing a relative, for the mountaineers have
a tribal system something like the old Scottish clans,
and all are probably related to one another. Thus
an injury to one is avenged by the whole clan ; and
as many of these clans number some thousand rifles,
the organization is powerful enough to cause some
hesitation in offending any of its members.

I heard of men who had been prisoners in their
own houses for years, unable to go outside for fear
of being shot at sight. One man had sworn to be
avenged on the body of his father some years
previously. Up to last year he had killed twenty-
four people. 1 don’t know if he is still alive, and if
so what the tale of vengeance now amounts to; but
he is sure to be killed himself some day, and could
hardly have survived as long as he has but for the
fact of his being rich and powerful, with a large
following.

Houses in the country are commonly loopholed
for musketry, and provided with a watch-tower ;
and several times I have found a body of armed
retainers in attendance upon men over whom hung
the threatened vengeance of a blood-feud. It is
difficult to imagine such a state of things existing in
the twentieth century.

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It is quite common to see farmers ploughing their
lands with a loaded rifle slung over the shoulder ;
and even on the way to church the men all go armed.
No doubt there is a close time observed for the
actual service, and probably for a certain distance
from the church or open-air meeting ; but beyond
that there would be no scruple in shooting down an
enemy. The majority of the people, especially in
the mountains, are Roman Catholics, and very de-
vout so far as the wearing of beads and crosses, and
the observance of fasts. Beyond that there is not
much difference between the Christians and the
Mohammedans. The Greek Church, too, has a
large following.

Their chief virtue is that of most savage and
uncivilized, or half-civilized, races, hospitality. On
riding up to a house the head of the family, if he is
in—if not, his wife—comes out and welcomes you,
and takes your rifle, which is hung up on the wall.
This is a sign that you no longer need to defend
yourself, and that he makes himself responsible for
your safety. And asa matter of fact, you are then
perfectly safe, and he will protect you at the risk of
his own life. For the killing of a guest while under
his protection can only be avenged with blood,
although in certain cases I believe money can be
accepted without loss of honour as compensation
for the death of a relative. You are then ushered

102 + BIRD-HUNTING

into the house, where a dyed sheepskin rug is spread
in the place of honour, near the fire of logs which
burns in the middle of the floor. A cigarette is
rolled and handed to you, while coffee is prepared
and brought in on a tray in tiny cups—genuine
Turkish coffee, very sweet and thick, and of course
without milk. How the taste for it grows on one
after a short sojourn in these countries! Unless
the people are very poor, vakz is also produced,
and sour milk or cream cheese.

In the mountains | was told that a guest is passed
on from one village to another, perhaps conducted
by a child, with a password or a recommendation.
But very few travellers have penetrated to the
higher mountains. There the Albanian moun-
taineer, as wild and rugged, not to say as savage,
as his native mountains, exercises undisputed sway,
untroubled by any other authority, Turkish or
otherwise. For though nominally under Turkish
rule, this is of no practical value beyond the fer-
tile lowland country and the towns. There it is
confined to exacting as much money as possible
and to doing as little as possible in return. The
officials, from the governors and valis downwards,
obtain their places by bribes. On payment of
a certain sum down one is nominated governor, or
what not. The first necessity, once he is in power,
is to get back this sum, then to amass as much more

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 103

as he can as quickly as possible. Well he knows
the time and opportunity is short, for soon some
other official will be making a bid for the post, and
he will be shelved to make room for him. Then,
unless he has acquired sufficient for another post
elsewhere, he will be left without employment. A
nice picture truly, and a nice state of things!

This year a law was made forbidding the export-
ation of timber from the forests. A German mer-
chant in the town who had or was about to purchase
timber from a neighbouring forest was approached
personally by the governor, who gave him to under-
stand that in return for a present of £20 or 430,
I forget which, no notice would be taken of any
infringement of the law!

There are no roads, no bridges, no law, no
protection, no justice for anybody.

I have myself heard a Bey offer a man £5
to swear falsely that a Christian, whom he
named, was guilty of a recent murder. The offer
was refused, not at all on the ground of its being
a false charge, but solely because it wasn’t enough.
For £10 he said he would do it willingly! It
is true I didn’t understand what they said, as
they spoke in Albanian, but B understood,
although they thought that he didn’t know Al-
banian, but only Turkish; and he translated their
conversation to me afterwards.

104 BIRD-HUNTING

Here is another case of Turkish justice. A
governor of an inland town, having a grudge against
a man, asked him, as a favour, to take care of some
gunpowder for him. Having done so, he was de-
nounced to the police for having explosives concealed
in his house, and imprisoned. Being offered his
freedom on payment of a certain sum, he indignantly
refused to pay a penny for two years. Then the
horrors of a Turkish prison broke down his resolu-
tion, and he paid up the sum demanded. But he
didn’t long enjoy his freedom, for on the second
day after his release he died suddenly. The official
report was to the effect that excessive joy at his
release had affected his heart ; but at the time it was
strongly suspected that poison was the real cause of
his so sudden death.

A gentleman, whom I knew well, an Albanian
landed proprietor, told me he was imprisoned once
for murder. There was not the slightest foundation
for the charge, and after some months he was
released without having been tried. He didn’t say
so, but I have no doubt he effected his release by a
backsheesh to the authorities.

And these Turkish governors, governor-generals,
and other officials whom I have met, are to all
appearance charming and most courteous gentle-
men. Speaking perfect French, they talk most
eloquently and plausibly on education, the reforms

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 105

they are effecting, and similar matters, until one
begins to doubt the evidence of one’s senses, to
forget the abuses which are so palpably visible
everywhere, and to think that this must be at all
events an honest man, who is trying to do his duty.
But they are all alike. There is really no room in such
a system for an honest man; he simply couldn’t exist.
The roads are abominable. They certainly make
a pretence at leaving a town, but soon become a
mere track. The bridges are the rudest structures
of rough, wooden planks, extremely rickety and
shaky, and almost invariably with holes big enough
to lame a horse if he doesn’t pick his way carefully.
In early spring the country in the plains is com-
pletely water-logged and saturated, the mud is
terrible, and the frequent puddles nearly deep
enough to engulf a horse. The roads are so bad
that nobody attempts to keep to them, but it is
customary to make your way over the fields on
each side, keeping a careful eye on the tracks so
as to follow the most lately-used passage over the
streams and ditches and bad, boggy places. Through
the forests a man on foot would have to wade nearly
up to his middle, besides having his clothing nearly
torn off his body by the terrible thorns, while on
horseback it is only possible to proceed very slowly,
and with great exertion to the horse, which sinks
into the sticky mud about a foot at each step.

Vi

AN INTERLUDE WITH EAGLES AND STORKS IN
ALBANIA

THE daily sight of a pair of Sea Eagles harrying
the ducks and Coots on Durazzo lagoon induced us
to spare a couple of days searching for their nest in
a neighbouring forest. At this time of year the
roads or tracks through the forests are in a dreadful
state. As we plodded along, plastered with mud
from head to foot, I wondered sometimes how the
horses could keep going at all. B——, however,
assured me that the ground was better than he had
ever known it—at this time of year, and that the
last time he had passed that way for Woodcock
it had been ever so much worse. There was an
abundance of bird life as we proceeded through the
forest. Hoopoes, Rollers, and Golden Orioles had
now arrived, and the harsh scream of the Jay
resounded through the forest glades as at home.
Nightingales sung lustily in every direction, and the
voice of the Turtle was heard inthe land. Blue Tits
and Great Tits appeared to be of much brighter

106

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colours than at home. Birds of prey flew past
occasionally ; amongst others a male Goshawk and
a young Imperial Eagle were identified as we rode
along.

There was also a small bird, of sober colouring,
whose note was astonishingly loud and strong,
starting off suddenly like an explosion of fireworks.
I had a suspicion it was the Penduline Tit, but
never settled the point to my satisfaction. Either it
was met with when we were travelling or else when
we were intent on more important game, and
couldn’t attend to it.

There was such a variety of attractions that once,
not looking where I was going, as I should have
done, and my horse taking a short cut under an
overhanging bough, I was swept ignominiously out
of the saddle. I generally rode a sturdy little black
horse belonging to B——, which played me many a
trick, and was brimful of life and devilment.. He
had been ridden chiefly by Marco before my arrival,
and for some time I could not overcome his habit of
keeping behind B It was most exasperating
to ride through the town at the heels of his horse,
and without a whip it was almost impossible to keep
him level for more than a minute or two. B——’s

horse was, too, a very quick ambler, a pace much
prized in these countries where so much travelling
has perforce to be done at a walking pace. The

108 BIRD-HUNTING

Black pretended to be unable to keep up, and I was
alternately dropping astern and making spurts to
catch up. All this was very annoying, so one day I
unpacked an old pair of spurs that have seen service
in many parts of the world and put them on, and
the next time he tried his usual tricks ] let him know
they were for use and not for ornament. After that
I always wore them, and I found he was perfectly
well able to keep up with the other horse ; and when
he tried to carry on his games in the narrow streets
of the town, as he generally did, he was soon brought
to see the error of his ways. He was so full of
tricks that I always called him the ‘Little Black
Devil,’ until one day I thought of asking if he had a
name, and if so, what it was. I was told ‘ Shaitan,’
which means Satan, so that unconsciously I had
given him his rightful name.

But he was an excellent horse, as sure-footed as a
cat and as strong as a bullock. I have ridden him
ten hours a day over terrible country, and he has
been perfectly fresh and as full of mischief at the end
of the day as he was at the beginning. I have often
had to give alead over a nasty ditch or bad crossing
where the horses of native guides had refused to go,
and have ridden up azd down steep slopes where the
guides have been obliged to dismount and walk.
The grey which B—— always rode was not so
strong as Shaitan but equally game, and equally

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sure-footed, and the pleasantest and easiest horse to
ride I have ever been on. What splendid gallops I
have had on both of them! and what glorious days
of wild, free life through forest and hillside and
marsh we have had together!—days long to be
remembered with delight, mingled with regret at the
unlikelihood of ever meeting again. For B has
gone, transferred to the United States;! his two
horses have been sold;. and poor old Nero, our
constant companion, is dead.

After a long search, at last we found a large nest
which B—— remembered having seen when Wood-
cock shooting, and sure enough it was occupied by
a pair of Sea Eagles, presumably our friends of the
lagoon, It was placed high up an immense silver
poplar, a very favourite tree with large birds of
prey, and in it we could see the head and neck, and
presently nearly the whole body, of a nearly fledged
young bird. This was on the 2oth of April.

I photographed this young bird, but without
much hopes of a very successful result, for there
were many leaves of the tree in the way, which
moved about in the high wind, besides which the
surrounding trees made it impossible to get a clear

1 While this book is going through the Press, comes an invita-
tion to meet him on his way back from the States and join him in
a foray among the Chamois, Trout, and Eagles of the Carpathians,
with the chance of photographing a Lammergeier.

110 BIRD-HUNTING

view. Some of the smaller ones we cut down,
utilizing their branches in making a cover over the
camera, but all the disturbance thus made rendered
the return of the parent Eagles very improbable.
Though we waited seven hours, terribly tormented
by mosquitoes the whole time, they never came to
the nest, but we could see them soaring overhead,
and flying in great circles over the forest. In these
evolutions they were constantly pursued by a pair
of Ravens, which bullied them most persistently,
making all the time a great outcry. They had
themselves in all probability a nest of young some-
where in the neighbourhood, though we did not
succeed in finding it. It was an extraordinary sight
to see the great Eagle flying away from the Ravens,
and by dodging and turning doing its best to evade
pursuit, without attempting once to retaliate or to
defend itself.

We slept that night in the house of the proprietor
of the forest, who was away from home; but as he
was a friend of B——’s, who knew the house and
the servants in charge well, that made no difference,
except that we had to sleep in our clothes on some
couches, and to take our chance about food. How-
ever, Marco got some eggs for us, and with milk
and maize bread we did pretty well.

The house, being in such a lonely place, was
provided with a watch-tower at one corner, This

THROUGH WILD EUROPE Ill

was loopholed all round so as to be defended from
an attack from any quarter, while the windows
were fitted with iron, bullet-proof shutters, which we
were careful to close as soon as we had lighted the
lamp in the evening. These precautions were not
unnecessary, for B——told me how on a former
visit the robbers, who infest all these forests, had
stolen all the horses during the night and had
got right away with them. They were recovered,
however, some days later, after an interchange of
rifle-shots.

Very early in the morning we turned out and
proceeded again to the nest. As we had expected,
the Eagles had left to hunt for food; and about
eight o’clock one of them returned to feed the
young bird, which was evidently getting restless
and hungry. I just succeeded in exposing the
plate, which was all ready, before the Eagle dis-
appeared into the nest, shortly afterwards leaving
by the other side. But, as I feared at the time, all
the photographs at this nest were useless, owing to
the movement of intervening branches and leaves.
The nest proved to be full of skulls and bladebones
of sheep, goats, and a calf, showing that the Eaglet,
which was very nearly ready to leave the nest, had
been largely brought up on carrion.

On returning to the house I investigated the nest
of a White Stork in the courtyard. It was placed

112 BIRD-HUNTING

on the top of an old stump of a dead tree, at no
height, but exceedingly rotten and shaky, Just as
I reached the nest it gave a loud crack, and all the
bystanders shouted out that it was going to fall.
However, as I was there, and as it was the first
Stork’s nest I had ever been able to get at without
offending the owners, I stuck to it and burrowed
through the bottom of the nest with one hand, it
being impossible to get at it in any other way. I
could feel four eggs, which I took. They were
white and smooth, and smaller than I had expected,
judging from the size of the birds. I had been
careful before going up to ascertain if I could take
the eggs without upsetting the superstitions or
prejudices of the people. There were dozens of
Tree Sparrows in the outside sticks and underneath
the nest of the Storks. I wished afterwards I had
taken some of their eggs, but at the time I was too
anxious to reach firm ground safely to bother about
them. 1 was surprised to see that the old Stork
did not desert the nest, but came back very
soon afterwards and went on sitting as though
nothing had happened. I concluded that I must
have missed an egg, or perhaps two, and as I heard
later that they had brought off a brood all right,
this was probably the case, or else they laid again.
It is a most difficult thing to take Storks’ eggs.
They are exceedingly common, and I have seen

€11 aSvg avfosz)

IVYINAAT NVGANNVHOW

THROUGH WILD EUROPE £13

hundreds of their nests in Holland, Denmark,
Spain, Hungary, Roumania, Albania, and Montene-
gro. But as they are almost invariably on or near
houses, the owners of which regard them with much
affection or superstitious regard, it is nearly always a
matter of impossibility to take the eggs. Once, I
remember, in Jutland, a friend who was with me
asked a farmer for permission to mount a ladder,
only to look into a Stork’s nest on the roof, and
was very decidedly refused.

In Spain, it is true, I have occasionally seen nests
on pine- and cork-trees in the forests, but always on
large trees difficult to climb, and at the time there
were young birds in the nests. In Spain I do not
think the people pay much regard to them, merely
considering them useful in eating locusts, mice,
and even rats and snakes; but in Holland and
Denmark it would be very unsafe to disturb them,
and even more dangerous in Mohammedan countries,
where the people look upon them with peculiar
reverence.

VII
THE QUEST OF THE PELICAN : ALBANIA—continued

ALL this while time was flying, it was getting on
towards the end of April, and in spite of all our efforts
no nesting colony of Pelicans had been discovered,
and no photographs done. Matters were looking
serious, as I had no intention of going home without
something to show.

So one evening we got out a large-scale map of
the country, in the hope of finding therein some
other locality where we might hope to discover
them, and held a council of war. As they were not
nesting round Durazzo it would be necessary, I
declared, to make an expedition into the surrounding
country and search there until they were found.

The result was that we decided to take Marco,
with a pack-saddle loaded with a few necessaries,
including a camera and photographic equipment,
and ride southwards for two or three days, searching
thoroughly two localities which looked likely.

Accordingly, on the 29th of April, we started off,

after a good square meal, in the middle of the day,
114

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 115

intending to sleep at the house of a Bey who had
often pressed B to visithim. The village where
he lived was on our way, so that it just suited our
purpose.

The first part of our journey lay along the shore,
where the going was good enough on the firm
sand, but after we left that we had the usual
experiences of deep mud and extremely bad roads.

In front of some cliffs, about fifty feet in height,
were numbers of Kestrels, and a pair of Peregrines,
apparently nesting. Presently, after two or three
hours’ riding, we approached a long, straggling
village, with a villainous road through it paved with
irregular stones of all shapes and sizes. Turning off
at the end of this we reached our friend’s house, and
rode through the open gateway into a large court-
yard, where we were hospitably welcomed and
conducted to the guest-chamber over the gateway.

The Bey is an Albanian, descended from a once
powerful and noble family, whose possessions have
been much reduced. His grandfather, I was told,
used to ride abroad with a ‘tail’ of 100 mounted
and armed retainers ; but either in consequence of
having got too big for his boots, or for some act of
rebellion, his estates, or the greater part of them,
were confiscated, and the present Bey is in conse-
quence much less powerful than his ancestors.

He is not by any means a warlike individual in

116 BIRD-HUNTING

appearance, but a rotund tub of a man, with a flabby
face—just the man you would expect to see from
his way of life. He takes no exercise, but spends
the whole day smoking cigarettes and drinking vakz.
He is a Mussulman, and I heard had lately married
a second wife, who is extremely jealous, and will not
allow him to spend any time with his first wife. As
this second wife has a separate establishment the
poor man is kept busy running about, and dare not
sit up late at night for fear of a scolding. This,
of course, was only servants’ gossip, which came
to our ears through Marco; for, needless to say,
nothing was seen or heard of any of his womenfolk.

This was my first visit to a Mohammedan house,
and I found it rather awkward, for though B
had coached me beforehand in the various points of
etiquette to be observed, I constantly forgot at the
critical moment what to do. I couldn't even get
any hints from watching him, for being a stranger I
was, in a way, the chief guest, and was always
served first. It was decidedly embarrassing, for
instance, to be presented by an obsequious man-
servant with a large brass tray on which were
mysterious pots and glasses and spoons. What to
do with them I couldn’t think. What I did do I don’t
exactly remember now, but I am perfectly sure it
was not what I ought to have done, and what I
learned to do later, viz. to take a spoon from a

THROUGH WILD EUROPE BIZ

glass containing several, help myself with it to a
mouthful of a sweet, sticky conserve of some fruit,
and then place the spoon I had used in an empty
glass on the other side of the tray put there for that
purpose. Then cigarettes and coffee were handed
to us as we sat on divans round the room, while
B and our host exchanged compliments, and I
tried to look interested in a conversation I couldn’t
understand. It was settled that we should dine and
sleep there ; but I was warned that dinner was likely
to be a long time preparing. And it was a long
time, finally appearing a little before midnight. We
were very hungry, so that when a tray was brought
in with various snacks of roast chicken, olives, pine
pips, and small trifles of a similar nature, I was glad
to help myself with my fingers like the rest, but for
some time very sparingly, as I didn’t want to spoil
my dinner. However, the hours went by, and still
the dinner didn’t turn up, so that in desperation I
made a meal on what was before me. These were
washed down with small glasses of vai, a colourless
spirit flavoured with aniseed. Our host, though a
Mohammedan, drank copiously, until I calculated he
must have had at least twenty-five glasses, and
when the dinner finally appeared he was in a jovial
mood. The pzéce de resistance came first in the
shape of a lamb roasted whole. This alone was
sufficient to account for the delay, as no doubt the

118 BIRD-HUNTING

beast was alive when we rode up, and had to be
killed and cooked. It was certainly cooked to per-
fection, and our host had no difficulty in pulling it
to pieces with his hands. B on these occa-
sions has Marco to help to wait, besides the servants
of the house, and travels provided with plates and
knives and forks in case these necessary articles,
from our point of view, should be omitted. I had
some difficulty in getting through my first liberal
help, especially as Humdy Bey kept putting fresh
pieces on to my plate. Diving into the interior of
the lamb he would pull out the kidneys, or some
similar morsel, and give it to me in his hand.
This is considered a mark of honour; but I could
only look forward with apprehension to the succeed-
ing courses, and hope that I should be able to keep
going. The last dish was the fz/aff, mutton stewed
with rice; but before this appeared nearly a dozen
courses, alternately meats and sweets, were served
until I was in desperation. Turkish sweets are fear-
ful concoctions—very sweet, very sickly, and very
tasteless. The wine was of a special kind, of which
the Turks think very highly, made of grapes natur-
ally perfumed. It tastes as if heavily flavoured with
scent, and I thought it particularly offensive.

The correct fashion is to eat enormously, and
to express repletion audibly in a very disgusting
fashion. Our host set the example, but we, his

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guests, were unable to follow suit as we should have
done, and were no doubt considered very degenerate
and ill-bred in consequence.

It was a great relief when the meal was at last
finished, long past midnight, and we were left alone.
Marco and the servants had cleared away the table
and spread for us on the floor two mattresses and
gorgeously-coloured coverlets of flowered silk, on
which we slept comfortably the sleep of utter
satisfaction.

Early in the morning—too early for me, for I
would gladly have had another hour or two—we
were roused by Marco bringing water and towels,
and an indiarubber collapsible basin. This was
another indispensable article always carried, and |
found it so necessary that on B leaving Albania
for the United States, I bought it from him. You
can’t wash yourself at all satisfactorily, Turkish
fashion, by having a little water poured over your
hands out of a brass teapot over a shallow brass
tray.

After breakfast we started off again under the
guidance of two Albanian retainers of the Bey, lean,
wild-looking mountaineers mounted on rough, shaggy
horses, each man carrying a Martini slung over his
shoulder.

All day we rode, sometimes over hills covered
with brushwood, sometimes ploughing through

120 BIRD-HUNTING

treacherous bogs. Once we stopped for a_half-
hour’s rest and a cup of coffee at a small an, or
Turkish inn. Here I was amused at seeing two
buffaloes resting from their labours after ploughing,
submerged in a small but muddy pond, while their
owner plastered them liberally with wet mud scooped
up with his hands. This was, of course, to protect
them from insects.

On the way we put up, from a dead and putrid
cow, two Sea Eagles and two Egyptian Vultures,
the first I had seen in these regions. I should have
much liked to wait for their return, but it was too far
from anywhere to be worth while. Besides, we were
now too large a party, and it didn’t seem practicable
to stop the whole cavalcade for a doubtful chance of
a photograph. Presently we found we were ap-
proaching the large lake, which was one of the
objects of the expedition to explore, but on the
wrong side. The guides had mistaken the direc-
tion, and appeared to be in some doubt as to our
whereabouts. Finally, after a look at the map, we
took charge ourselves, and they had to follow us,
which they did at a distance and very unwillingly.
The ground was very boggy, even for Albania, and
the going was the worst I had ever experienced.
Sometimes it proved impossible to proceed, and we
had to try another way round; but after struggling
for a couple of hours, and crossing with great

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 12o

difficulty a narrow but very deep stream, we finally
found ourselves in the right direction on the right
side of the lake.

It was by now midday and very hot, and our
horses were badly in need of a rest; so, seeing a
large fig-tree close to some huts, the word was given
to off-saddle. The luncheon basket was unpacked,
and some eggs procured from the people, and we
were soon enjoying a welcome meal.

The Baron had a very good cook, a German, and
even when dining in the open air away from home we
generally fared very well—the first day, at any rate.
The second day out, after the basket was exhausted,
of course we had to take our chance with what we
could get.

This lake covered a large expanse, but more
resembled a vast reed-bed than a lake; we could
only see at a distance from the summit of a hill two
pieces of open water. I should say that it would be
full of breeding Herons, for we saw quantities of
Little Egrets, Glossy Ibis, Squacco Herons, and
similar birds ; but there were no signs of a colony of
Pelicans. The people told us that they didn’t nest
there ; and, as they seemed to know what they were
talking about, which isn’t always the case in these
parts, we determined to ride on over a range of hills
to our second locality. For hours we rode in single
file, winding in and out along a narrow path through

122 BIRD-HUNTING

the woods, which covered the hills thickly, now
stooping under an overhanging branch, now sway-
ing on one side to avoid a tree-trunk or rocky pro-
jection. Towards evening we arrived at a miserable
village, and the guides rode on to the house of the
chief inhabitant, a small farmer, to arrange that he
should give us quarters for the night. In all proba-
bility he was simply ordered to do so in the name
of the Bey, their master.

Whether this was the case or not we were received
very hospitably, and shown up a rickety ladder to
the living-room, which was over the cowshed and
stable, as usual. All night we could hear the beasts
moving about, and we could also smell them! The
courtyard round the house was used as a cattle-yard,
and was literally knee-deep in liquid mud and filth.
In one corner of the room was a pile of golden
maize, while in the middle burnt the usual log-fire,
filling the room full of smoke. Cushions and rugs
were spread for the Baron and myself, while our
men were made comfortable in another room, and
coffee and cigarettes were quickly brought to us.

There seemed to be an unusual number of stal-
wart Albanians about the house, every man armed
with his Martini, and a double row of shining brass
cartridges round his waist. At dinner, which we
ate squatting on the floor at a table four inches high,
we three were waited on by six Albanians, whose

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 124

rifles hung on the wall behind ready for use. It
turned out that our host had a vendetta, or blood-
feud hanging over him, and was obliged to maintain
a bodyguard of ten men, who were eating him out
of house and home. He besought B to try to
make some arrangements through Humdy Bey to
settle the feud by a compromise ; and I believe the
Bey afterwards expressed his willingness to use his
influence towards ending the affair for a payment of
about £30, the bulk of which would probably go into
his own pocket. While waiting for dinner we had
some impromptu shooting at a mark, a piece of
broken tile on a hillside some 200 yards away. When,
at his third shot, B broke it in half with his
Mannlicher carbine, the enthusiasm was immense.
The weapon was handed round from hand to hand

and examined, while anxious inquiries were made as
to the price of a similar one. Several of the men
wished to sell their Martinis and get one like it if
it were possible.

Nowhere have I seen such interest taken in
weapons, especially in firearms, as is manifested by
the people in these countries. To possess a rifle is
the first necessary of life. Even the boys, as soon
as they reach the age of sixteen, may be seen armed
like their fathers. In fact, one is hardly accounted
a man without one. Frequently one sees the old
long-barrelled Turkish muzzle-loading rifle with

124 BIRD-HUNTING

curved stock, sometimes beautifully inlaid. Many,
probably the majority, carry Martinis, the stocks of
which are decorated with brass-headed nails in lines
and circles. They are generally old, and I should
imagine, in spite of the care they take of them, that
the barrels must be very worn and corroded. The
mountaineers very frequently have Mauser magazine
carbines, and very handy weapons they are, espe-
cially on horseback, and I believe they are very
accurate. The curious thing is that these people,
accustomed as they are to shooting all their lives,
are not first-rate shots except at short range, and |
am told they are bad judges of distance. When it
came to shooting competitions, both B and |
could always beat them hollow. I fancy their
shooting at one another is at close quarters, and
under cover, behind a tree or rock, on which they
can rest their rifle, and behind which they are
protected from any shots in return. But they make
sure of the first shot; it doesn’t pay to miss in
these countries. I think a man at 600 yards
would be pretty safe, especially from Martinis, the
trajectory of which is much higher than with the
Mauser and other modern rifles, so that any error
in judging the distance would render the man shot
at perfectly safe. Another reason is, I expect, the
high price of cartridges, which are all smuggled.
This makes them unwilling to risk uncertain shots

bd a
OEE

THE AUTHOR IN ALBANIAN COSTUME
[To face page 125

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 125

at anything, and they don’t get enough constant
practice. The rifles are handed over to the host on
entering another man’s house, and are left in the
guard-house on entering most of the towns, but the
bandolier of cartridges is never laid aside. Even
at night I believe they are slept in, and the men
certainly sleep in their clothes, including the fez, for
I have many a time slept alongside them on the
floor, round the fire. Nowa single row of Martini
cartridges all round the body is a considerable
weight, and as many men carry two complete rows,
the burden constantly carried must be very great.
But I have noticed occasionally, whether from
inability to replace them from poverty, or to econo-
mize weight, that some of them are merely empty
cases which have been fired, and consequently
have no bullets in them. Considered merely as an
article of dress, the even row of shining brass cases
against the scarlet waistband is most effective and
picturesque, and certainly gives a man a martial
appearance. The whole Albanian costume is very
wild and fantastic, especially the wide white kilt
like a big fluted petticoat ; but the more usual garb
is a pair of trousers fitting tightly to the leg, made
of thick white felt, decorated in a weird and curious
fashion with broad black braid. These are held up
by a scarlet sash wound many times round the body,
in the folds of which is the revolver, while the

126 BIRD-HUNTING

cartridges for the rifle are held in a leather bandolier
put over the waistband. The black jacket, with
heavy tufts of black worsted on the shoulders and
arms and a long black fringe hanging down the
back, makes a man look much bigger than he really
is and adds much to his imposing appearance. (1
was surprised to find on donning the costume what
a difficulty I had to squeeze myself into it.) The
fez is always white, either square topped, like the
Turkish red fez, but without the tassel, or round,
like a skull cap; and round the head and under the
chin is wrapped a white head-cloth. The rifle is
carried slung over the left shoulder when on foot,
but a mounted man more often holds it in front of
him across the saddle. It is then ready for instant
use.

In spite of the vendetta our host saddled his mare
in the morning and accompanied us on our way
through the forest in order to take us to two fisher-
men to whom he had sent word overnight, and who
were considered to be the most likely persons to
know about the Pelicans.

It was a happy thought to send for these men, for
it was through them that we at last succeeded in
finding the Pelicans’ nesting-place. Clad in loose,
brown garments, with keen, wild faces and piercing
eyes, these two fishermen resembled birds of prey.
They were very civil, and said at once that they

EMBARKING WITH THE FISHERMEN

PELICANS

[To face page 1a7

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knew where the Pelicans nested, and that they could
conduct us to the place. One of them could speak
Italian, and described their nests and eggs, so that
we started off with them in two rude dug-out canoes
in high spirits. The Baron squatted in the bottom
of one, while I did the same in the other, and the
men paddled with single paddles at the stern.
There were numbers of Pelicans swimming about,
and presently we could see in front of us on the
horizon a white mass. These our guides declared to
be Pelicans sitting on their nests.

- How eagerly we scrutinized them through our
glasses as we drew nearer and nearer! After a time
it appeared as if the birds were sitting on the farther
shore in front of a belt of tamarisks, but as we
advanced we found that this was not the case. The
nests were at last made out to be on two low, sandy
islets some distance from the shore. The men, on
being asked, said they could take us to within thirty
yards of the islands without causing much dis-
turbance. This we found to be the case; and
accordingly I stepped out of my canoe with the
camera (the water was not much more than
knee-deep) and proceeded to make sure of some
photographs in case of not being able to get at
closer quarters. But in our hurried journey across
country we had not been able to bring more than
one box of photographic plates in addition to those

128 BIRD-HUNTING

already in position in the slides ; and when I started
to use these I found to my dismay that the whole
boxful had been reduced to powder. The pack-
saddle had undoubtedly received a hard knock
against a tree or rock, probably in traversing the’
forest the previous day.

There was nothing left to do but to examine the
colony, take a few eggs, and hurry back for a better
supply of plates, and to come again provided with
a tent so as to be able to camp out on the shores of
the lagoon within easy reach of the islands. We
could thus be independent of the villagers, be much
nearer the Pelicans, and could remain as long as we
liked.

It was still only early in the morning, and by
riding hard we reached the Bey’s house that same
night, and the Consulate the following day.

At once we set to work to pack the tent and
provisions, and started all the things off early the
next morning on two pack-horses, while we followed
later, after breakfast, with Marco. One of the fisher-
men—the younger one—accompanied the pack-
horses, having brought the eggs we had taken
well packed in moss in a basket. He had done the
whole distance on foot, arriving overnight in a
drenched condition, as there had been a series of
thunderstorms all day. He was now walking back,
very footsore, and very stiff from having slept in his

| es

PELICANS ON THEIR NESTS (PELECANUS CRISPUS)
(To face page 129

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 129

saturated clothes, but very contented with the liberal
backsheesh I had given him for bringing them safely.

Halting again at the Bey’s for something to eat
and to rest the horses, in the middle of the day, we
pushed on as hard as we could, and reached the
shores of the lagoon in the evening. Before night
fell we had pitched the tent in the forest, and made
a rousing fire.

The villagers were amazed at our preferring to
sleep in the forest, affirming that it was not safe,
many robbers being known to be about ; and they
pressed us repeatedly to put up in the village. One
man was quite importunate in begging us to sleep
at his house. But we were a strong party, four men
besides ourselves, all of us well armed with Martinis
and magazine rifles; and we decided to stay where
we were and chance any attack.

As a matter of fact two nights passed off peace-
ably, although there was a certain amount of danger
—or would have been for a weaker party. And we
were much more comfortable in the well-appointed
tent with our own things and Marco to wait on us
and cook, than in a smoky and dirty native hut.
We slept comfortably if not luxuriously, B in
his camp-bed, and I in my sleeping-bag and rug
placed on an indiarubber ground sheet, my constant
companions in all these wanderings in strange

countries, bird-hunting and collecting.
9

130 BIRD-HUNTING

These articles don’t take up much room on a pack-
horse, and are less bulky and weighty than a tent ;
and it is a great advantage when travelling in a wild
and sparsely inhabited country to know that in case
of need one can sleep out in the open if belated and
unable to reach one’s destination by nightfall. For
after dark it is impossible to travel over such a
rough country. Snugly enveloped in my bag, I have
slept warmly and comfortably on cold nights with
ice on the ground outside the tent, and even in the
open air on damp ground during heavy rain.

Turning out early in the morning, we were soon
afloat with our friends the fishermen, and on reaching
the islands I was landed quietly with camera and
several dozen plates, and left to myself. B
remained on a small island opposite, where, prone
on the ground, he watched the proceedings through
his glass.

There was no great difficulty in approaching the
birds. Taking care to move slowly and quietly, and
not to cause them undue alarm at first, I found it
possible to advance nearer and nearer, taking photo-
graphs at each stopping-place, and then crawling a
little nearer for another batch. In this way they
ultimately permitted me to come within twelve or
fifteen yards. If sometimes they left their nests
it was only for a short distance, and they soon
returned and resumed their places on their eggs,

NEST OF PELICAN (PELECANUS CRISPUS)

[To face page 13%

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 131

apparently satisfied that I was not in any way
dangerous.

It was a great satisfaction to find myself at last at
such close quarters and on such familiar terms with
these birds, which had evaded my pursuit for a
whole month, and to be able to watch the habits of
such a wary and comparatively little known species
—little known, that is, of course, in a wild state,
Pelicans in captivity being very common objects in
all zoological gardens.

The nests were usually in groups of six or eight
together, some of them quite small and flat on the
ground—mere flat-trodden rings of sticks; but in
each group there were generally one or two con-
siderably higher than the rest. These were well
and completely made of sticks and about two feet
high—very similar to a Cormorant’s nest, but better
made and with a deeper hollow. Two eggs appeared
to be the full clutch ; these were long and white and
chalky, but by this date, May 4, the great majority
of the nests contained young birds. However, nine
clutches of eggs were obtained, and a few more
might have been taken. As these were fairly fresh
it is probable they were second layings. A great
number of the young were as large as their
parents, and were swimming about in the lagoon, so
it is evident that they must begin nesting operations
very early in the year. Others were still in the

132 BIRD-HUNTING

nests—a few only a day or two old, others as large
as a goose. Many young were scattered over the
island, sitting on the sand; the smaller ones pro-
gressed by crawling, helping themselves along with
their wings.

Those in down presented a curious appearance.
Their colour was a dull, dirty white, with leaden-
coloured beaks and feet, and small pouches of the
same colour. These young Pelicans made a constant
moaning sound like the lowing of cows, or as B
described it, like buffaloes.

The stomach of one of these young birds in
down which I skinned was enormously distended,
and contained a large double handful of what looked
like vegetable matter. It was difficult to imagine
that it could have proceeded from a fish diet, but
rather resembled the contents of a goose’s stomach
after grazing in a field. I had several opportunities
of watching the young being fed by their parents.
Naumann says" that Pedlecanus onocrotalus feeds its
young from the pouch. Inthe case of Pelecanus cris-
pus, however, the young bird inserts its whole head
down the parent’s throat much lower than the opening
of the pouch. In fact, the point of the young bird’s
beak could be distinctly seen pressing from inside at
the base of the old bird’s neck. In this observation
I was corroborated by B , who watched with his
glass from a neighbouring islet on which were also

OUR PARTY PREPARING TO CROSS AN ALBANIAN RIVER

LANDING THE PELICAN
Photographs by Baron Bornemisza) (To face page 133

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 133

many nests. His description of what he observed
exactly corresponded in every particular with what I
saw myself as described above.

The old birds frequently yawned, stretching their
necks and beaks upright, at the same time arching
their lower mandibles, which are exceedingly flexible, -
into the shape of a hoop. It may be perhaps that
this is an attempt to dislodge the numbers of
parasites, like intestinal worms, which adhere in
large numbers to the inside of the pouch. Large
bunches of these worms were found inside the
pouch of an adult female which was shot and
skinned.

The peculiar character of the skin was very
noticeable. It was porous and cellular to an extra-
ordinary degree, resembling nothing so much as a
series of innumerable air bubbles. Even the body
had large air cavities, and the bones were very
hollow. This porosity no doubt helps to support
their huge bodies in the air, and so must serve a
most useful purpose during flight. They fly well
and strongly, with the head drawn back and the
beak resting on the doubled-back neck.

This colony had its parasites in the shape of
Hooded Crows (Corvus cornix) and Gulls (Larus
cachinnans) which walked about among their huge
hosts in a most familiar, not to say impudent
manner. They no doubt act as scavengers, and

134 BIRD-HUNTING

devour the fish dropped, and also the eggs, and
those young birds which are dead in the nests.
Eagles also were described by the fishermen as
spending whole days devouring the young Pelicans,
and we found the remains of a nearly full-grown
young bird almost entirely eaten, and near by lay
the wing feather of an Imperial Eagle.

The fishermen to my surprise did not appear to
regard the Pelicans, as I had been told they did, as
rivals, as it were, in business. I had heard that
they destroyed their eggs whenever they had the
opportunity. But on the contrary, they had quite
a friendly regard for them, and were quite unwilling
for any of them to be shot.

Curiously enough, too, they denied that they fed
on fish, and were quite surprised when a mass of
eels which they had disgorged was pointed out to
them. On the other hand, they gladly went in
pursuit of a wounded Larus cachinnans which had
been winged, and described these birds as being
very mischievous and doing a great deal of damage
to the fishing.

The soil of the islands was entirely composed
of shell-sand—broken-up cockle-shells. The only
vegetation was a species of samphire, growing
like heather, but this only flourished on the parts
where there were no nests. In the neighbour-
hood of the nests this was utterly destroyed and

ALBANIAN FERRY

OUR CAMP IN THE FOREST
Photographs by Baron Bornemisza) [To face page 134

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 135

trodden down. In it were countless hosts of mos-
quitoes and poisonous-looking horse-flies, and I
fully expected to be fearfully tormented by them.
However, much to my relief, I was not stung once
during my five hours’ stay on the islet. The same
flies were met with later in the Dobrudscha, when
I was not so lucky. They can fetch blood every
time |

This expedition of ours, being quite unauthorized,
caused great excitement in the minds of the Turkish
authorities. I heard afterwards that the telegraph
wires between Scutari and Constantinople were kept
busy with official reports and inquiries about the
mysterious Englishman who was travelling about
the country without leave or licence. As they could
not get hold of me they put into prison the poor
Albanian, whose only offence was that he had given
us food and shelter for a night. He was accused
of ‘conspiring with foreigners,’ and B , on
hearing of it, had considerable difficulty in effect-
ing his release. All the time, as it happened, I
was provided with official permission from Constan-
tinople, but I had not known that I was within the
jurisdiction of the Governor-General of Scutari, to
whom I had been recommended. He had actually
received from Constantinople telegraphic orders to
assist me in all my undertakings.

It will not be an easy matter in future for anybody

136 BIRD-HUNTING

to penetrate as far as we did, for the natives will,
not unnaturally, oppose any visit, for fear of getting
into trouble again. This is no doubt exactly the
effect desired by the Turks, and after all it will
serve a good purpose in protecting the Pelicans
from any molestation, for they appear to be reced-
ing farther and farther from civilization, and I hope
that this particular colony may remain in undis-
turbed possession of their remote islands for very
many years.

Vill
THE SEARCH AFTER THE GREAT WHITE HERON

Tue quest of the Pelican having been brought at
last to a successful end, I set to work packing up
and making preparations to start for the Dobrudscha
to look for the other European Pelican, Pelecanus
onocrotatus, But before the steamer arrived by
which I expected to travel to Trieste, in order to
take the train to Roumania, I received telegraphic
instructions to proceed to Scutari in Albania to
search for the Great White Heron (Ardea alba).

This is one of the least known among European
birds by English naturalists, not so much on account
of its rarity in point of numbers, for in places it
still exists in more or less abundance; but these
places are invariably very remote and inaccessible.
It is also extremely shy, and with good reason. It
has suffered persecution all over the world on
account of the beautiful plumes which it assumes in
the breeding season. These plumes and those of
the Little Egret are known to the millinery trade

137

138 BIRD-HUNTING

and the fashionable world as Ospreys, and fetch
very high prices.

In consequence of this persecution these birds
have become exterminated in most countries, and
it is only in very remote and out-of-the-way places
that they can exist at all. I did not altogether
consider Scutari the best place, although I knew
that they were to be found there, but my instructions
left me no choice in the matter.

Now Scutari is not an easy place to get at, nor is
it, when you do reach it, a very desirable place to
live in. I could have gone overland from where I
was, but it would have taken me four days over
very difficult and dangerous country. There is also
a small Italian steamer which runs up the Bojana
river, when there is sufficient water, and calls at
Scutari. But taking all things into consideration I
determined to go by steamer to Dulcigno, and from
there travel by horse. One reason for this was
the hope of being able to procure the services of
Djouraschkovitch as interpreter, for after my experi-
ence of Albanian towns I was not anxious to
arrive at one alone and unable to understand the
language.

But engaging Djouraschkovitch was not quite
such a simple matter as I had expected. It turned out
that he had employment at the Turkish Consulate,
and also at the local office—a sort of town hall.

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 139

He declared himself unable to leave without pro-
curing a substitute to do his work—and it seemed
there was only one man in the place able to do the
work, This one man naturally stuck out for his
price; and eventually I had to promise to pay all
expenses and 41 per day.

This matter being at last settled, two horses were
engaged for the next day for us to ride, and two
more, in charge of two men, as pack-horses to carry
the luggage. We had a long and difficult journey
in front of us, so an early start was made. After
crossing the little ferry an hour beyond the town
we struck off to the hills, crossing them in single
file by means of a winding track. These tracks in
Montenegro, as in Albania, over the mountains are
probably nearly as old as the mountains themselves.
As our horses toiled upwards in single file I noticed
that each horse put its feet into the same place as
the one preceding it, and looking more closely, it
was evident that the solid, living rock was worn
into holes like a rough stairway. What countless
generations of men and horses must have passed
over these mountains to have thus eaten out a
visible path! The rocks, could they but speak,
could tell queer tales of rapine, murder, and blood-
shed. For thousands of years this country has
been the scene of endless fighting, invasions, and
marauding forays.

140 BIRD-HUNTING

And it is so still. When on the frontier this
year, only a few months ago, the ‘capitan’ of the
little village I was in told me that within the last
three years thirty men had been shot in his district
alone. He described to me how one morning,
riding through the forest, he came on five dead
bodies lying around a pool of blood. The Albanians
of Northern Albania are not only more fanatical
and savage than they are in other parts, but the race
hatred between them and the Montenegrins is as
old as the hills, and is kept at fever heat by constant
bickerings and bloodshed.

The frontier is in a constant state of turmoil and
unrest, and both sides are ever on the watch. At
present the Bojana river and the Lake of Scutari
form a boundary between these ancient enemies,
but only thirty years ago Turkish territory em-
braced the strip of coast, and included the town
of Dulcigno and the port of Antivari, shutting
off Montenegro entirely from the sea.

Travelling here one has to be always armed and
ready for emergencies—almost to ride rifle in hand
with the finger on the trigger, and across the border
aman may be killed for the sake of the cartridges
in his bandolier !

We had not proceeded very far before we dis-
covered that one of the pack-horses was not up to
the weight he carried. Coming down a steep and

THROUGH WILD EUROPE I4I

stony hillside he nearly fell, and soon afterwards in
a narrow lane he stumbled and rolled over, sending
the man flying over his head. We were by now
riding along the Bojana river, against whose strong
current fleets of Turkish craft were sailing towards
the town. I knew we should have to cross this
river twice, and was told there were bridges. About
these, however, I had my doubts, so that when we
reached the first crossing I was not surprised to see
on the other side a very ancient and crazy-looking
ferryboat, but no bridge. They told me that it
had been carried away by the winter’s floods, but if
so it had been swept away so completely that there
was not the very slightest trace of it left, and the
ferryboat looked as if it had been running since
the Deluge.

They do not take the trouble here to make any
landing-places for these ferryboats, and embarking
horses, especially if they are at all restive, is a
difficult and tedious business. However, in due
time we did cross, bag and baggage. On the
Albanian side we had coffee at the dirty little
han—after some bother with the people, who were
stupidly suspicious of the money we tendered in
payment.

From here we were joined by a Turk, who was
also going part of the way to Scutari, and we were
glad of his company, for he knew the way, and none

142 BIRD-HUNTING

of us did. There were now no,roads which could
be recognized as such. Sometimes we splashed
between high banks through what was either a
submerged road or a river-bed, I am not quite
sure which ; and at other times we rode over boggy
ploughed fields covered with maize stubble, forcing
our way through hedges and over ditches. Several
times we had to turn back and make long détours
owing to deep water in front. One deep river
we crossed with some difficulty, my horse almost
swimming. One of the pack-horses was just behind
me—the same beast which had fallen before. Mid-
way I heard a cry, and, turning my head, saw the
pack-horse roll completely over and disappear under
water. My luggage and the rider were also com-
pletely submerged. I had to ride back and help to
cut loose the luggage, and repack it in mid-stream.
Everything was of course completely saturated.

These are events of everyday occurrence when
travelling in Albania, with the chance of being held
up by brigands, or shot at by some fanatic, thrown
in. The conditions are about equal to those met
with in travelling in Central Africa, without the
chance of seeing any big game.

However, everything comes to an end at last,
and we were not sorry when we reached the out-
skirts of Scutari, though our troubles were by no
means over. A long and very shaky wooden

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 143

bridge over the river had to be crossed. We all
dismounted for this, and it certainly looked so
rickety that I should not have been surprised if the
whole structure had collapsed. At the guard-house
at the end we were stopped and our passports
examined, but of course there was nobody there
able to read, so a sentry was sent with us through
the town in search of an officer. After he was
found another search had to be made for an inter-
preter, and when all this troublesome business was
at last settled we had to retrace our steps through
the bazaar for our things to be examined at the
custom-house.

Our weary horses slipped and stumbled along in
a stone-paved gutter full of filth, about a foot wide
and nearly a foot deep, between rows of open booths
or shops. The light overhead was shut off with
crazy roofings, and mattings hung at every angle,
while the bystanders jeered and made uncompli-
mentary and hostile remarks. I had no need to
understand the language to perceive the nature of
their behaviour, and on asking Djouraschkovitch
afterwards he told me it was lucky I could not
understand the actual words.

This town of Scutari, or Skodra, used to be the
ancient capital of Montenegro, when that warlike
little Principality was much larger than it is to-day,
for it then included parts of Herzegovina and a part

144 BIRD-HUNTING

of what is now Albania. But later it was ceded to
Venice in return for assistance against the forces of
Turkey. Since then it has been taken and retaken
many times, and is now a Turkish town of some
importance, and the chief town of a province or
vilayet. It is without exception the most fanatical
town I have ever seen. Murders are of constant
occurrence. Quite recently two Christian judges,
appointed to try Christian cases, were both shot dead
as they sat at a café in the street, while the murderer
boasted to a police officer of what he had done. No
attempt was made to arrest him until Baron B——,
who was then Consul, went to the Governor-General
and insisted on his arrest, giving information at the
same time as to where he was to be found. The
house was not visited by the authorities for two
days, and only then after they had sent notice to
the culprit beforehand. Needless to say there was
nobody there to arrest when they did search it.

At the custom-house, by a great bit of good luck,
the officer in charge knew Djouraschkovitch, and we
had no trouble. At last we were free to find an
hotel which had been recommended to me. As soon
as we had cleared the bazaar, whose streets were too
narrow for wheeled vehicles, we chartered a cab and
transhipped all our luggage into it.

Never have I seen such a cab before or since.
An open carriage in the very last stage of decrepitude

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 145

and decay, two groggy-looking horses harnessed
with scraps of leather and bits of rope and string, and
driven by a dirty individual in a tattered great-coat
and a fez. But this ramshackle turn-out must have
been stronger than it seemed or it would never have
survived one trip through the town. I thought I
knew the worst of Albanian roads, but this chief
street, the main thoroughfare of one of the most
important towns in Albania, was far worse than any
road I have ever seen in any part of the world.
Several puddles were, without any exaggeration, up
to the axles; and as our Jehu, standing up in his
box, urged on his crazy steeds, one terrific bump
nearly sent us out headlong into the mud, and
did quite send flying one of my portmanteaux.
Djouraschkovitch turned quite white, and said he
would get out and walk, ‘that he didn’t like it’; no
more did I, but I prevailed on him to sit still ; in fact,
I held him in his seat. To tell the truth, I wanted
him for ballast! Alone, and without his weight to
steady the affair, I felt that it would be impossible
for me to remain in it for a moment; I should
presently be tossed up like a shuttlecock and find
myself on my back in a morass.

It was a great relief at last to find ourselves under
a decent roof with a good dinner in front of us.
The hotel, to my surprise, was really comfortable
and homelike. It was kept by a Serb, assisted by

Io

146 BIRD-HUNTING

his son and daughters. Perhaps compared with
hotels in other cities it had its shortcomings ; but
considering the state of things outside it was a
perfect oasis of comfort. And inside one felt safe,
which, to tell the truth, I never once did outside the
door. The Hétel de l'Europe in Scutari, in Albania,
is quite a pleasant recollection.

One day, hearing a great uproar in the street, I
looked out and saw a powerfully-built mountaineer
being marched along, firmly held on each side by
two men. He was struggling violently and doing
his best to get at his revolver. Behind them walked
six soldiers with loaded rifles ready to shoot him the
moment he should break away. It seemed he had
gone into a café very drunk, and had started to
throw the furniture about and to smash the crockery.
On the proprietor objecting to this behaviour he
had drawn his revolver and fired at him.

The mountaineers coming into the town are
required to give up their rifles at the guard-house
outside, but as they always have a revolver in their
waistcloth this does not do much good. On bazaar
days it is a curious and interesting sight to see these
wild-looking people flocking into the town. On
horseback and on foot they come in droves, driving
small and shaggy ponies laden with firewood. Some
of the younger women ride astride, the older ones
stagger in on foot, veritable beasts of burden. I

obi aSvg aovfof)

SUINOd GOOMAAIA

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 147

have seen old women—judging from their appearance,
eighty years of age, though perhaps in reality not
more than fifty—bent double under enormous loads
of firewood which they have cut in the mountains
and carried in on their heads. If they can’t sell it
they carry wt back and bring it in again the next
bazaar day. When they do sell it the price may
amount to as much as fourpence!

These poor old tottering creatures are barefooted
and bareheaded, their only garments apparently
a bit of rough sacking in front and another behind,
and a coarse petticoat held together with a broad
and heavy leather belt. Sitting on the curb at the
edge of the path to rest, they are only able to rise
again after repeated efforts. Once, seeing one of
them vainly endeavouring to rise, I went out and
gave a heave up behind to her load, to the great
amusement of a crowd of loafers, who laughed and
jeered at such an unusual act, while the poor old
woman herself probably thought she was being
moved on.

There are two dirty little Italian steamers running
on the lake, which is over thirty miles long, and on
one of these we embarked one morning for Plavnica,
a small Montenegrin village at the farther end of
the lake.

This lake is surrounded by high mountains, and,
as is usual in such cases, subject to violent storms. I

*

148 BIRD-HUNTING

never experienced a single fine day on it. There
was always a thunderstorm raging on one or other
of the mountain peaks. While the rest were lit up
by a brilliant sun, round one particular peak the
storm-clouds would gather, and the lightning would
flash and the thunder roll and mutter, while the wind
would rise and cause a regular little cyclone.

Many White Herons were seen fishing about the
shallows, and once, passing one of the submerged
forests of willows which are so commonly seen in
these parts, I saw a nesting colony of Herons through
the glass at a distance of perhaps half a mile. I was
almost sure that they were the Great White Herons,
a nesting colony of which I was so anxious to find, and
I made a mental note of the place with the intention
of returning to pay it a visit at the first opportunity.

On arriving at Plavnica we arranged to sleep at a
rough-looking wine-shop, or az, and while our things
were being carried in I set Djouraschkovitch to work
questioning his countrymen about the White Herons.

‘Oh yes,’ they said, ‘there were any number of
them, and they were nesting in great abundance.’
One man declared that he knew a big tree quite
close with at least fifty nests on it. He was engaged
at once to conduct me to the place, while Djourasch-
kovitch made things straight and arranged about
our supper.

Off I started with this man, with great hopes of

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 149

an easy conclusion to my search. I ought to have
known better. In whatever part of the world I
have been in the peasants are almost invariably
utterly ignorant of birds and quite unable to tell
one from the other even in their own language.
Neither the Spanish herdsmen nor the Albanian
peasants, who see Eagles and Vultures every day of
their lives, can tell the difference between them ;
they don’t, in fact, know there is any difference. I
had brought with me a series of coloured tracings of
birds, with the local names in various European
languages to help me in making inquiries, but found
them utterly useless. An Inspector of Fisheries in
Roumania, for instance, a man sufficiently educated
at all events to keep accounts and write reports, on
being shown a Little Egret said it was Lebeda.
Now I knew Lededa in the Dobrudscha means Swan !
He only saw the bird was white, but could not see
that the shape of an Egret is as unlike as it could
possibly be to that of a Swan. It is sufficiently
exasperating to make a long day’s journey only to
find something not worth going out of the way for ;
and yet you have to chance it. Your information
may be right, or it may be wrong, it probably is
wrong, but all the same you must go and see for
yourself; and you have to pay just as much for
false information as if it had led to a good result.
Sure enough, after walking, or rather wading, about

Iso BIRD-HUNTING

three miles we saw a large tree in which were per-
haps a dozen nests of Ardea cinerea, the Common
Grey Heron!

At this time of year the low-lying lands are
fearfully water-logged. Everywhere the ground is
flooded. The fields have from a foot to two feet of
water; the forests are submerged half-way up the
trunks of the trees; the roads—where there are
any—are a succession of puddles and morasses, so
that working here it is simply impossible to keep
dry. On foot you are constantly mid-leg deep in
water, and even riding you very soon become wet
with the splashing of water and liquid mud. Any-
body liable to rheumatism would very soon be
crippled after birds’-nesting here. And itis curious
what a number of snakes there are in the water ;
even the puddles on the road often have three or
four snakes swimming about in them, and in the
ditches they simply swarm. Most of them are
harmless, but on one of these aquatic expeditions I
came on a very deadly-looking viper coiled up asleep
on the stile between one flooded field and another.
The broad, flat head and unmistakable expression
left no doubt as to its dangerous character. I nearly
got a photograph of it, but while putting in the
plate, after focusing at very close quarters, it un-
coiled itself and glided away, greatly to the relief
of my guide, who was in a great fright.

THROUGH WILD EUROPE Ig

Returning to the village I found our supper nearly
ready, and the floor of a carpenter’s shed adjoining
swept out and more or less tidied up for our recep-
tion. Squatting around the wood-fire on the floor
we dined in company with some labourers, who
were discharging goods from a barge, Montenegrins
and Turks; and very good company they were.
Turkish coffee followed the stew, and cigarettes, of
course; after which we all lay down round the fire
and slept comfortably.

The morning was very unpropitious for our work.
Heavy and continuous rain delayed our start for
some hours. A boat and a couple of men had been
engaged to take us to a likely marsh on the Albanian
side ; all the luggage was piled up amidships and
covered with my waterproof sheet, while Djourasch-
kovitch and myself huddled together in waterproofs
at the stern, covered or partly covered with an
umbrella he had thoughtfully dorvvowed from the
hotel. He had forgotten the trifling ceremony usual
in such cases, of asking permission from the owner ;
but I did not feel inclined to find fault with him, and
only regretted that he had not brought away two
instead of only one.

As soon as we reached the open water it became
evident that we could not possibly reach our in-
tended destination. The wind was blowing half a
gale, and the waves threatened every moment to

152 BIRD-HUNTING

swamp our heavily laden boat. The two boatmen
flatly refused to cross the lake, and for some time
we could only cling on under the lee of a submerged
willow-tree, which gave us a slight shelter, while we
deliberated as to what could be done.

Finally. it was decided to go in the opposite
direction, which would bring us to the heronry I had
seen from the steamer the previous day, and we
should be able to keep, most of the way, under the
shelter of a belt of submerged trees, reed-beds, and
water-lilies. A big bed of water-lilies makes a most
efficient breakwater. The force of the heaviest
waves is quickly spent and lost among the heavy,
floating leaves and long stalks of the lilies; and
in place of the heavy water continually breaking
over the boat we rode comfortably and easily over
a long, oily swell. But the rain continued, and
though heavy rain is also very good in keeping
down asea, yet it is most miserable to sit in a
small boat with no room to move, exposed hour
after hour to its pitiless pelting.

Seeing at last a small huddle of poverty-stricken
huts on a rocky shore we determined to land for
the purpose of obtaining a hot meal of some kind if
it were possible. But the only things eatable to be
had were some smoked fish, which we broiled over
the fire in one of the houses. The people here
were so poor that though they had coffee there was

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 153

no sugar in the house. However, they managed to
get some from a neighbour, and very welcome we
found a cup of hot coffee in our drenched condition.
The small sum I gave in payment was accepted
gratefully, the woman kissing my hand as I left:
this I found to be a very common form of salutation
and a way of expressing thanks for any benefits, but
one I felt rather embarrassing. Men frequently do
it as well as women, especially after receiving a
liberal backsheesh for any services they have
rendered. More embarrassing still is it to be
embraced and kissed by an Albanian, bristling with
deadly weapons.

It was still raining heavily when we re-embarked,
still very wet but rather more comfortable after our
rest and refreshment.

Presently we approached the heronry I had
noticed, but, to my great disgust, I found that this
time I had myself mistaken the Common Grey
Heron for the Great White Heron. The bright sun-
shine on the white necks of the birds, and the fact that
their bodies were hidden by the branches, together
with the distance at which the steamer had passed,
had helped to mislead me. There were many nests
on the tops of a clump of tall willows growing in
deep water ; and from the treetops came the unmis-
takable chipping cry of young Herons. Evidently
the eggs had all hatched, but to make sure |

154 BIRD-HUNTING

climbed to one of the nests to see what there was.
And a nasty climb it was in my wet clothes. The
boat plunged and rolled in the heavy sea which
surged among the trees, while the trunks were
perfectly slimy with moisture. To add to my
difficulties, the small branches were very rotten,
and broke off short in my hands as I ascended one
after the other. Djouraschkovitch was in a great
fright, shouting frantically, ‘ Monsieur, déscendez-
vous, je vous prie; les ramiers sont trop faibles
pour vous; vous tomberez,’ &c., &c.

However, I got up all right, only to find young
birds, as I expected, and descended safely, though
stepping into the plunging boat from the slippery
trunk was no easy job, as the men were unable to
bring it in very close; though even if I had gone
overboard—as I fully expected to do—I could not
have been any wetter than I was already. I was
glad to find myself once more inside the boat,
uncomfortable as it was, and we proceeded on our
way, more or less dispirited by this fresh dis-
appointment.

It was now necessary to cross an open arm of the
lake exposed to the full force of the wind. Luckily
both wind and rain had by now somewhat abated ;
and after a hard pull, during which the waves
frequently broke over us, half-filling the boat, we
finally arrived at a village on the Montenegrin side.

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 155

The Lake of Scutari forms a natural boundary
between the two countries, the frontier running
diagonally across. There was a very decent little
inn at this village, Vir-Pazar, where we stopped for
the night. It was a market day, and the busy but
peaceful scene in the streets was a pleasant change
after our experiences in Scutari.

After dinner we had a conversation with two
Montenegrin gentlemen stopping there on their
way to Cetinje, the capital, one a doctor, the other
some official. On learning I was an Englishman
they began to pour their troubles into my ears, in
the most impassioned language, begging for the
protection of England as the only way to save their
country from Austria or Italy on the one side, and
from Turkey on the other. In vain I pleaded that
I was not the Prime Minister, but merely an
obscure naturalist with no influence whatsoever ;
that England had quite enough on her hands with-
out incurring the further jealousy of all the great
European powers, who were already jealous enough ;
that even if I wrote to the papers, and had my
writings accepted, my name would carry no weight
at all; and that the complications of Balkan politics
were far beyond my comprehension or the compre-
hension of anybody who had not given them a
life-long study. All this was of no avail ; they still
talked and pleaded, sometimes with tears in their

156 BIRD-HUNTING

eyes, as they spoke of the dreadful barbarities to
which they had been subjected. And certainly,
though I must have lost a good deal— for
they spoke at length in Servian, which had to be
translated into French by my interpreter, and my
replies in French translated again into Servian—
yet I heard enough to sympathize with them even
if it was out of my power to help them. I heard
tales of peaceful Montenegrin peasants being shot
dead while ploughing in their own fields by some
bloodthirsty Albanian across the frontier, out of
mere sport, and blood-curdling accounts of how
their girls and women are constantly seized and
carried over the border, never to be seen again by
their friends, parents, or husbands, sometimes to be
butchered by being knocked on the head with an
axe when their captors have tired of them.

All this was very painful, and though perhaps
some of these tales were slightly coloured by
national prejudice, still I knew enough to realize
that in the main these terrible accounts were true,
and also that it has only been through great
difficulty and constant fighting that Montenegro
has until now preserved her independence. But
whether the protection of England is really desired
by the people I am not in a position to say. I
know that England is still regarded with gratitude
and affection ever since the British fleet made a

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 167

demonstration in Dulcigno harbour and compelled
the Turks, who were advancing to the attack, to
retire, and I can quite believe that if the protection
of any country became necessary they would prefer
that of England. But I must say that I was very
glad when finally, at a very late hour, they retired
to their room and left me free to go to bed, for I
had had a long and tiring day.

The next day we boarded the steamer for the
return voyage to Scutari. If possible, this steamer
was smaller and dirtier than the one in which we
had gone to Plavnica. Besides which, the captain,
the engineer, the agent, and several passengers were
exceedingly drunk on the bridge. Singing and
shouting, throwing empty bottles about the deck,
and reeling to and fro, they caused a pandemonium
I have never seen equalled in any ship in any part
of the world—and I have seen some curious sights,
too, in my travels. Luckily the steersman and the
engineer in charge of the engines were sober, and
the weather was fine, so that in due time we reached
our destination.

In my innocence I imagined that, as we had
passed the custom-house only three days ago we
should have no more trouble; but I was soon to
know better. Luckily I had determined not to
bring a gun in case of confiscation, only a revolver
in my pocket out of sight; but the officials quickly

158 BIRD-HUNTING

got to work @ la Turgue, and my things were
strewed about all over the floor. I had with me
tools and materials for preserving birdskins, and
when they found a bag of plaster of Paris, and
asked what it was, I told them ‘ Poison, arsenic.’
The man who was holding it at once dropped it as
if it were red-hot, much to my amusement. But
he soon found a piece of insulated copper wire
belonging to the electric camera and took possession
of it. Anything of the nature of electric apparatus
is always regarded with great suspicion here, where
they have a lively apprehension of bombs. How-
ever, as I could not replace this I quietly took it
out of his hands and put it in my pocket. Next
moment the dry battery was unearthed. This con-
firmed their suspicions, and I had to give up again
the rescued wire, and they were promptly confis-
cated. I was by this time thoroughly angry, and
told them in plain language what sort of fools |
thought them, that the electric arrangement was
only for photographic purposes, and that I should
complain to the Va, or Governor-General, and
insist on their return, and that he, the Vad, had
received telegraphic orders from Constantinople to
assist me, and’ had personally given me permission
to do as I liked here.

Though I thought I made a decided impression
by all this, they still refused to give them up. But

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 159

by making a complaint to the British Vice-Consul,
who, by the way, was a wealthy Albanian who
could speak no English, they were compelled to
restore them to me within a couple of days.

That evening my hopes were again raised by a
visit from the secretary of the Austrian Consulate,
to whom I had brought an introduction from Baron
B He told me that he had, at my request,
sent a fisherman, whom he sometimes employed, to
search for nests of the White Heron while I was at
Plavnica, and that he had reported the finding of
several nests with eggs.

This circumstantial report, from a man described
by M. Ljoubanovitch as trustworthy, seemed at last
to promise well. It was agreed that Ljoubanovitch
and myself should accompany this fisherman to the
spot where he had found the nests, that he was to
come for me soon after daybreak, and that we should
go down to the custom-house to embark together.

This was done, but the morning again was most
unpromising. We started in heavy rain, and my
companion, who was crippled in one leg with long-
standing rheumatism, was in such evident pain that
I refused to allow him to proceed, and said I would
go alone with the fisherman and his son.

They were Turks, and of course I could not
speak a word to them, but they were very civil and
plausible, and I thought I should be able to manage

160 BIRD-HUNTING

with them. However, the rain got worse and
worse, the wind rose, the thunder rolled just over
our heads, and the lightning ran in sheets over the
water. It was a terrible day, and several times we
took refuge behind a tree before we could proceed.
After some hours of this my boatmen at last refused
to goon. Their hands shook, their teeth chattered,
and their dusky faces went an unearthly pallid blue-
grey colour. They were evidently ‘done,’ and
absolutely unable to proceed. The fact is these
Turkish fishermen, though muscular and very
strong, are soft, and unable to stand bad weather.
The day was certainly as bad as I have ever
experienced ; but I am sure no English boatman or
fisherman would have been in such a state of collapse
as they were.

There was no help for it, of course, and I was
compelled to return, zolens volens. The next day
we tried again, this time taking my interpreter,
Djouraschkovitch. Again we had heavy rain on
the way, but eventually it cleared up, and we
reached a submerged forest where the nests were
supposed to be. The interpreter was left on a
sandy island while we attempted to force the
londra (boat) into the forest. It was, I saw at
once, too big for the work. The trunks were close
to one another and matted together in inextricable
confusion with fallen trees and branches, creepers,

ATTITUDES OF GREAT WHITE HERON WHEN FEEDING
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THROUGH WILD EUROPE 161

and every description of obstacle. By dint of great
exertion, all three of us pushing with the oars with
all our strength, we managed to penetrate perhaps
100 yards into this labyrinth, and there we
stuck. At this point I went overboard up to my
waist and pushed behind, while the two Turks
worked with the oars against the trunks of the
stunted trees, and in this manner we progressed
about as far again. Then the men began to look
about as if they had reached the spot. It was not
possible to see more than a few yards on each side
of us, so I took my revolver and fired a shot, hoping
to see Herons rising from their nests against the
sky. But no such result happened. There was
evidently nothing there, and we returned, with the
same difficulty, to where we had left the interpreter,
as I felt that some explanation was desirable.

As I expected, a close cross-examination brought
out the fact that they had never found any nests
at all, and I firmly believe they had never even
attempted to look. They had brought me to this
place ‘on spec.’, trusting to my finding something.
In fact, they had behaved exactly as Turks generally
may be expected to behave, whatever their station
in life.

Pelicans were frequently to be seen on the lake,
and no doubt they breed somewhere in the im-

penetrable swamps, submerged forests, and morasses
II

162 BIRD-HUNTING

to be found on the low-lying Albanian side of the
lake; but as I had already found them breeding
farther south I did not trouble further about them.
I had no doubt that the Great White Heron, too,
must be nesting in similar situations; but the
difficulty was how to search such a labyrinth,
especially as the fishermen absolutely refused to
take me out farther away from the town. They
said that if they were to be seen searching about
with Christians we should all certainly be shot by
the people inhabiting the country between the lake
and the hills.

In the meantime I had noticed that several White
Herons were in the habit of feeding close to the
Custom-house in the very early morning, where the
water is shallow, and as there was a belt of willow-
trees which would serve to hide behind, I determined
.to try to photograph them there.

The next morning I succeeded in photographing
Ardea alba, fishing in this spot, and had the best
view I had yet been able to have of their method
of feeding. For close to my hiding-place I was
able to watch three different species of Herons and
to compare their behaviour.

The common Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea) stood
in its usual and well-known position, motionless and
expectant, ready to make a lightning-like stroke
with its pointed beak the moment any unwary fish

GREAT WHITE HERON FEEDING (ARDEA ALBA)
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THROUGH WILD EUROPE 163

or frog should approach it. Avdea alba, on the
contrary, stalked rapidly hither and thither, never
stopping still but always in motion, snapping quickly
to right and left as it went, at small fry, aquatic
insects and suchlike, while Ardea garzetta, the
Little Egret, fairly ran through the water, using its
wings to help it along when it saw anything likely
to escape at a little distance, in its eagerness to
secure it.

Ardea alba had been described to me as an
awkward-looking bird, and certainly some of its
postures are ungainly ; but at other times, especially
when, with neck arched ready for the stroke, and
uplifted foot, it advances deliberately through the
water, it is the perfection of grace and beauty,
while its snowy plumage adds much to its appear-
ance, whether seen against a background of reeds
or willows, or wading in water with dark reflections.
The dorsal plumes hang over the tail, giving it a
Crane-like look, so that I could find some excuse for
their being called ‘White Cranes’ in a book on
Albania and Scutari which I have lately read.

At this point Djouraschkovitch, who had been in
a ‘blue funk’ all the time we had been in Scutari,
positively refused to stop there any longer. Never
again, he said, would he put foot inside this place,
not even if I gave him £5 aday. And as I had
given up by now all hope of doing any more

164 BIRD-HUNTING

good there I consented to leave as soon as we
could pack and make arrangements for horses for
the return journey.

It was determined to ride to a small village on
the frontier which I had visited before, there being
there an undisturbed marsh, which I thought would
be the most likely place to find such shy birds as
those I was in search of.

We had the usual difficulties on the journey,
increased by the fortnight’s heavy rain. One deep
ford was so swollen that our progress was delayed
for some time, while we tried in vain to find a safe
place to cross. Eventually we succeeded in doing
so, but the horses were almost carried off their feet
by the heavy water. Then, while waiting for the
ferry over the Bojana, one of the men, a mountaineer
in charge of one of the pack-horses, met an enemy
who used some threats towards him. ‘All right,’
said the man, who for a wonder carried no arms,
‘you can kill me if you like, as I am unarmed, but
if you do, 2,000 of my clan will come and have
their revenge.’

There was no killing that day, and we pursued
our journey in peace, arriving at the same village
from which we had been turned away, in our search
for Pelicans, by the three armed men.

My very first day’s work was brought to an
abrupt close by a repetition of the same thing.

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 165

Again three men with rifles swooped down on us,
one of them also provided with a length of rope, with
which they actually commenced tying up one of my
men. But nothing came of it except that again we
were escorted back to our boat in a sort of informal
arrest. The men, it seemed, were gens darmes,
though wearing no uniform. In fact, for all intents
and purposes, they are murderers and _ banditti.
Among them was the same ruffian who had pointed
his rifle at me on my previous visit. I saw a good
deal of this man later, and at the little Zaz out-
side the guard-house across the frontier he would
sit cross-legged on the table and make cigarettes for
me, and in his company I have drank many cups
of coffee. He boasted of having shot eighteen
men, and I haven't the slightest doubt he would
shoot anybody he was paid to kill without any
scruples—and his price would not be so very expen-
sive either. A couple of medjzdiehs, perhaps, at
four shillings each!

He was told off to accompany me afterwards to
see I did no mischief, for I telegraphed to the
British Consul at Scutari to ask the Governor-
General to send orders to the people here not to
molest me. Rather to my surprise he did so. It
is true that he had promised to assist me to the
utmost of his power when I had called on him
with my credentials, and he had besides received

166 BIRD-HUNTING

instructions from Constantinople to do so. But
promises in Turkey are not always meant to be kept.

The way this man performed his duty was funny.
All I had to do was to provide my boatmen with
a sufficiency of rum. I was then quite free to do
what I liked—I could have surveyed the whole
place, or done anything else, while he was imbibing
rum out of the bottle. When at the end of the day
we left him at the landing-place opposite his guard-
house, he was always exceedingly drunk, waving in
farewell a big blue cotton umbrella in one hand, and
his loaded rifle in the other. I was always very
glad to see the last of him, for he used in his
drunken way to point his rifle at any of us, and in
the state he was in an accidental touch of the
trigger was not by any means an unlikely thing to
happen.

Before he used to come with me his officer
accompanied our party one day. A very smart,
good-looking man he was too, and spoke a little
French.

But he was no more efficient in watching me than
his subordinate. We had gone some distance up
the river to enlist the services of a family of
Albanian mountaineers in exploring some sub-
merged forests which looked promising, but on arrival
at their house so much time was taken up in the
duties of hospitality that I thought I should never

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 167

get away to do any work. We were ushered inside,
of course, where we all squatted round the fire
while the usual coffee was made, then cigarettes,
vakt, and cream cheese were handed round. We
were a large party, and the family was a large one:
two brothers, apparently, with their wives and in-
numerable children, and an old woman, possibly the
mother, all living together in a big basket, for the
house was entirely made of wicker-work ; inside and
out, partitions, cupboards, sleeping-bunks, and every
part was made of osiers, or willow twigs, roughly
matted together, so there was plenty of ventilation,
and a free outlet for the smoke.

As soon as I could I escaped outside, and, ac-
companied by two boys and one of the men, armed
with a first-rate magazine carbine, went in search of
the Velika biyella charplya (Great White Heron).
The bird had been described to them, and the local
name used, and they professed their ability to take
me to a nest. Off we went, nearly waist-deep in
water for about an hour, when they conducted me
with great pride to the nest of a Hooded Crow!

The four skinny, ungainly-looking little Crows
which were the inhabitants of this nest seemed to
wear a grin of derision on their ugly faces as I
looked at them, and I felt inclined to wring their
necks. But it was no use being angry; the people
had done their best according to their limited

168 BIRD-HUNTING

ability, so I had to make the best of it. We waded
altogether for three or four hours and found nothing
more. The Turkish police officer meanwhile had
been reclining at his ease drinking va&, and when
I returned, sopping wet and very tired and hungry,
he was more than ‘half seas over.’ With his boots
off and his uniform unbuttoned he looked a very
disreputable and dissipated Turk. By this time
they had prepared a dinner for us all, to which we
did full justice, though I have to this moment a
vivid recollection of the nastiness of the chief dish,
a sort of maize porridge, very thick and stodgy.

The people and the house generally had such a
wild look about them that I set up the camera for
a family group, after which I invited them to look
through the camera at one another. It was a funny
sight to see about seven or eight women, children
and boys, all trying to get their heads under the
focusing-cloth together, while a dirty-looking brat
would be doing his best to look in at the lens at the
same time. It was a hard task to keep them in order,
and give them each a chance of seeing something.
No doubt this was the first time any of them had
ever seen such a thing, and they evidently took me
for something like a magician.

I had announced a reward of a napoleon for any
news of a veritable nest of White Herons, and
several times made expeditions to more or less

ALBANIAN FAMILY

(To face page 163

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 169

distant localities on false information. Once they
took me to an Albanian village, only to find a
Stork’s nest, and were very aggrieved because I
refused to pay. After all, there was a Stork’s nest
in the village, within 100 yards of where I was
living, but I suppose the more distant one to
them seemed better value for the money, and a
better excuse to make me pay up.

At last, one day (May 27), after many disappoint-
ments such as I have described, and many failures,
I succeeded in finding a nesting colony of Ardea
alba. 1 had been wading all day searching several
thick reed-beds. The day was a very hot one, and
I was thoroughly exhausted and done up, so much
so that several times I had been obliged to sit down
in the water and rest on clumps of reeds. Hardly
able to drag myself along, I was on my way slowly
back to the boat where I had left wine and food,
when suddenly the unmistakable grunting of breed-
ing Herons attracted my attention. On firing my
revolver up got several Common Herons, but with
them were some Great White Herons. Fatigue,
hunger, and thirst, were all forgotten, and I plunged
again into the reeds with renewed strength. The
water was waist-deep—sometimes over—but luckily
the bottom was fairly firm. Each step required the
exercise of my whole strength and weight to force a
passage through the thick reeds. For over an hour

170 BIRD-HUNTING

this went on, until at last a nest was found high up
in the reeds, made like a Purple Heron’s nest, in
which were lying four pale-blue eggs.

But this alone was insufficient. I had seen Grey
Herons rise from the reeds, and the eggs of the two
species are so much alike that further identification
was necessary, if only for my own satisfaction.
Crouching in the reeds at a little distance I waited
until a pair of veritable Great White Herons
hovered over the nest, preparing to alight.

At last, after a whole month’s search in Montene-
gro and Albania! Only those who have experienced
the difficulties, uncertainties, and disappointments of
such a search can sympathize with the relief I felt
at having finally succeeded.

Then I went back to the boat for some much-
needed refreshments, and received the compliments
and congratulations of Djouraschkovitch, who con-
fessed that he would have given up the search long
ago as hopeless. During my absence he had found
the beautiful nest of a Penduline Tit suspended from
the extreme tip of a willow twig.

Back we went with the camera so as to lose no
time in obtaining a photograph. Djouraschkovitch,
being anxious to see the nest, accompanied me into
the reeds. It will give some idea of the difficulty
of birds’-nesting in these places when I say that for
two hours we searched in vain for it, though I

DULINE TIT

GING NEST OF PEN

HAN'

To face page 170

E

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 171

thought I had left a plain track of broken reeds
Straight to the spot. But, no; we lost ourselves
completely, and not only could we not find the nest,
but we had considerable difficulty in finding our way
Out again,

When once we had entered the water the reeds
towered over our heads to the height of six or
eight feet, and it was impossible to tell in which
direction we were going. High mountains were
on three sides of us, but it was impossible to see
them, or, in fact, to see anything more than a yard
away.

We had to leave the nest for that day, and it was
only after two hours’ more hard work on the next
day that we succeeded in finding it again. By that
time one of the four eggs had hatched, and the
other three were on the point of doing the same.
It was only by a very prompt and rough surgical
operation with my knife that I was able to save
them.

Not far from this nest we then found more than a
dozen nests of the Common Heron and the Great
White Heron. Each of these contained young birds,
the Common Herons nearly fledged, the White
Herons in all stages, from a few days to a couple of
weeks or more. There were no more eggs, so that
I was only just in the nick of time to obtain any at
all; another hour’s delay and I should have been

172 BIRD-HUNTING

too late. On being approached, the young Herons
leave their nest and retire into the reeds, sometimes
going to some distance, and returning when the
danger has passed. On these occasions they pull
themselves along with their feet—the toes of which
have considerable grasping powers—by their man-
dibles, and by hitching their chins over the reeds,
using the beak as a hook.

Both nests and eggs appeared to be smaller than
those of A. cznerea. The nests were sometimes
raised about two or three feet above the water,
others were nearly flush, The birds themselves
were quieter than czmerea or purpurea, and I only
heard low croakings while waiting at the nests.

But they were exceedingly shy. In vain I tried
every dodge and artifice I could think of. One day
I spent hiding at a little distance with reeds tied all
round my waist, with a long string on to the shutter
of the camera. For hours I stood in the water thus
hidden, swaying backwards and forwards in the
wind like the other reeds, till I almost began to
think I was a reed myself. But the birds either
saw the hidden camera, or detected me through my
disguise, and obstinately refused to alight.

Then I tried the electric camera, and this did
go off several times. It was lucky, however, that I
did not altogether trust to this plan, which has its
advantages for very shy birds, but at the same time

YOUNG GREAT WHITE HERONS

[To face page 172

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 173

is very tricky and unreliable, for it turned out
afterwards that for some reason or other all these
exposures were failures.

Then I used an empty nest as a hiding-place. It
was at a good height up, and, by burrowing a hole in
the mud with my feet, so as to make it rather deeper,
I found I could stand behind and partly under it and
be pretty well hidden, and at the same time get a
good, clear view of a likely nest opposite.

Here, then, I remained almost motionless for two
entire days of ten hours each day, from eight o'clock
in the morning until six o’clock in the evening. I
had some food in my shoulder-bag, for my pockets
were full of water, and munched hard-boiled eggs
and dry bread when I was hungry. The only
exercise I could take to keep the circulation going
in my legs was working with my feet to deepen the
hole I was standing in. The water was up to my
waist, and to make things still more unpleasant, the
leeches found out some holes in my breeches made
by the reeds, and I was losing blood all the time ;
there were several also inside my boots.

I had started the search with a pair of wading-
trousers. They were very old, however, and had
seen much service in England, Scotland, Spain,
Holland, and Denmark, and were nearly worn out
when I started, and the reeds here had quite
finished them some days ago. They were literally

174 BIRD-HUNTING

cut to ribbons, and perfectly useless, having gashes
in them over a foot long, so that I had to finish the
work without them.

On the first of these two days the hen bird came
to the nest, but in a very timid, hesitating manner,
first of all not actually on the nest, but a little way
behind it. She waited there a few minutes, and
then flew off, as if she didn’t like the look of things.
An hour later she came again, but still on one side,
and I made one exposure. Two hours after that I
had another chance, after which she advanced right
into the nest and fed the young like a Spoonbill,
leaving before I could get another plate in.

The young ones were very disappointed, and so
was I. Their note when they see their parents in
the neighbourhood of the nest, and when they alight,
sounds exactly like ‘ Be quick, be quick,’ and in this
I quite sympathized with them. I knew that the
poor little beggars must be hungry; and so was |
very hungry, and very wet, and very tired of stand-
ing there so long, and I was quite as anxious as they
were for her to ‘be quick.’

I was much annoyed by my men, two of whom
were waiting at the edge of the water, talking loudly,
and even singing, to pass the time, though I had
particularly told them to be quiet. The next day I
sent them back to the village in the boat, telling
them to come for me in the evening. I thus had

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THROUGH WILD EUROPE 175

the place entirely to myself. I ought to have done
this before, for hardly had they left the place than
the bird returned to the nest, standing up well in
the middle as I had seen her the day before. I had
made up my mind to be satisfied with no other
position, but to keep on until I had secured it, so
that I was pleased at having succeeded so early in
the day. After that I had to wait two or three
hours, as she seemed more timid than ever, and
when she did come it was only to the back of the
nest, where I could barely see her through the
reeds. As her young ones couldn’t get to her, she
gradually forced her way through and stood in the
nest, where I was able to photograph her several
times.

The electric camera was also set at a neighbouring
nest, and I found it had gone off at the end of the
day. I had hidden it on what I had thought was
an empty nest, but when I went to it I found a
young Grey Heron, nearly fledged, sitting on it.
For the bird to make the exposure I had stretched
a fine green thread over the nest, so that on returning
she would be bound to touch it.

These few photographs of the Great White Heron
cost me no less than six days’ hard work in three
and a half feet of water, while I had spent a whole
month in the search for a nest.

There were a good many Marsh Harriers about,

176 BIRD-HUNTING

which seemed to pay much attention to this heronry.
Many young birds had been devoured in the nests,
but whether the Harriers had killed them first, or
whether they had simply devoured the dead ones
they found I cannot say. Eagles, too, were con-
stantly seen flying over, also the Mediterranean
Herring Gulls (Larus cachinnans). These birds
were nesting not far off on a sandy stretch with
occasional bushes and pools of water. There also
was a large colony of Caspian Terns apparently
nesting, although I could find no eggs. Norfolk
Plovers were numerous, and I found two of their
stone-coloured eggs after noticing the place from
which a bird had risen. A few Pratincoles also
frequented the same spot, and I picked up one day
a broken egg-shell. Purple Herons were common,
and daily a Bittern boomed close by. I could hear
them booming every night, while a Scops Owl
regularly uttered its curious cry from across the
river, and sometimes a glimpse of one could be
seen flying over the house. Little Owls also are
common here; I have often seen them sitting on
a house-roof in the broad sunshine in the middle
of the towns and villages.

Bee-eaters were abundant, and were often seen
sitting on the single telegraph wire which here
crosses the river. One day we borrowed a spade
and dug out a couple of holes in the level ground,

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 177

but though the burrows extended four feet in length
there were no eggs.

Having at last finished with the Herons it was
necessary to rush back to Dulcigno in order to catch
the steamer. There is no time to spare, as if I
missed it I should have to wait another week.

At the little inn in Dulcigno I had left one big
box of luggage when I went to Scutari. At the
last moment, with the horses at the door to take
me to the Val de Noche landing-place, the landlord
presented me with a bill charging rent of my room
for the twenty days I had been away, on account
of the box left in his charge. Of course I refused
this demand and offered a napoleon in full payment
of everything. But there was no time to argue, or
I should have lost my passage, and I had to pay
under protest.

Judge of my surprise when, on arrival at Antivari
about three hours afterwards, I received a telegram
that was waiting for me from Djouraschkovitch,
which said, ‘Autorité judicial vous envoie 34
courronnes que la patron de l’hétel vous a fait
illegalement payer.’

Three hours in which to bring an action, receive
the money, and forward it by telegram in time to
catch me at the next port strikes me as a smart bit
of legal work, and a record for speed.

I was very glad of this money, for I was running
I2

178 BIRD-HUNTING

very short, and could not draw any more on my
letter of credit until I reached Budapest. Without
it I should certainly have stuck on the way, for as
it was I only lasted out by going practically without
anything to eat the last day, and arrived at my hotel
in a penniless condition without enough money to
pay for the cab.

621 2sny avo)

Was AZONYIVA NO

IX
BIRDS -NESTING IN HUNGARY

In all the capitals where I carried introductions
to the leading naturalists I met with a most cordial
reception and the greatest possible kindness. And
to the circle of ornithologists in Budapest I shall
feel ever grateful for theit cordiality and hospitality.
I say czvcle advisedly, for they resemble more a
family circle, every member of which sympathizes
with the tastes and likings of the rest, and when
a stranger of like mind arrives in their midst they
vie with one another in entertaining him and helping,
him to the utmost of their ability.

Hungary, too, is a country of extreme interest to
the ornithologist, although to the casual traveller no
doubt it may appear not particularly likely or suitable
for any large number of birds.

As a matter of opinion, without the opportunity
of consulting statistics, I should say that the list of
Hungarian birds would show that the country is
second to none in Europe in the richness of its bird

179

180 BIRD-HUNTING

fauna. Russia probably would show a larger number
with its vast area, embracing as it does both the
birds of Northern and Southern Europe with the
overlapping of Asiatic and Eastern species ; but with
that exception Hungary has few rivals. Nor is this
surprising when its central position is considered, for
this necessarily ensures its being in the path of the
migrating hosts from north to south and vice versa
every spring and autumn. There is also every
diversity of feature within its boundaries, so that
every class of bird can find a suitable habitat. The
Danube runs the whole length of the country, and
its many tributaries and almost impenetrable swamps
are inhabited by countless numbers of marsh birds,
waders, and water-fowl. There are also many remote
lakes of large size where other birds of the same
class, as well as a great diversity of smaller warblers,
can find a safe refuge. Its woods and forests shelter
many birds of prey, and in its mountains are still
to be found the Griffon Vulture and other large
raptores, and the vast plains are an attraction to
the Bustards and similar ground birds.

Even in Budapest itself it is possible to see
many most interesting forms of bird life. In the
parks, and especially on the Margareten Island,
there are Hoopoes, Golden Orioles, and Red-footed
Falcons, besides hosts of Tits and Finches, which
find protection and encouragement in the form of

NEST OF SPOTTED CRAKE (PORZANA MARUETTA)
[To face page 181

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 181

nesting-boxes in the spring and _ feeding-tables
during the winter months.

Last February a Wall-Creeper (7richodroma
muraria) was seen daily on the rocks on the Buda
side of the Danube, no doubt having been driven
from its mountain home by the heavy snow then
prevailing everywhere throughout Europe. The
Danube was then almost blocked by great masses
of ice floating down the turgid current, which was
nearly up to the level of the embankments. On these
blocks of ice were many Goosanders, Smews, and
Red-throated Divers, and it was interesting in the
extreme to be able to watch these birds in the middle
of a large city.

Later in the year there were immense numbers of
Sparrows roosting in the bushes in the squares.
There must have been thousands of them, and when
bed-time arrived the chattering was almost deafening.

And if birds are plentiful in Hungary, ornitholo-
gists and field observers are also numerous. There
is even a Government department, or bureau, the
Ungarische Ornithologische Centrale, established for
the express purpose of determining the economic
value of birds. Among other methods, the contents
of the stomachs of the various birds are examined
scientifically, and records kept of the proportion of
insect, vegetable, or animal food devoured by them
at different seasons of the year, and in different

182 BIRD-HUNTING

localities. These records are properly tabulated and
classified, so that authoritative reports are always
available on the usefulness or otherwise of any bird.

Some such bureau in England would be very
useful, and might with advantage be instituted by
the Board of Agriculture. Any question then of a
bird’s alleged destructiveness to any crop could be
authoritatively and officially answered.

The head of this bureau in Budapest is Herr
Otto Hermann, whose striking and picturesque
personality is well known to English naturalists.
Dr. von Madarasz, the genial ornithologist of the
museum, is also well known to all ornithologists.
Here, too, I met Herr Cerva, the dealer and
collector, and under his guidance, in company with
Herr Schenk, from the Bureau, I made two
memorable birds’-nesting expeditions, to Valencze
See, and to a marsh at some distance from Buda-
pest. Valencze See is a long, narrow lake, well
provided with extensive reed-beds, and is one of
the best known of the celebrated Hungarian bird
resorts.

It is only a short distance from Budapest, and the
railway station is close to the water, so that it is very
easily reached. Permission, however, has to be
obtained from the owner. From the little railway
station platform I could see large flocks of birds on
the water as soon as we stepped from the train, and

NECKED GREBE (PODICEPS NIGRICOLLIS)

NEST OF BLACK-

(To face page 183

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 183

by the aid of my glass, a Goerz prism, could distin-
guish Little Grebes from the Black-necked Grebes
(Podiceps nigricollis), much to the surprise of my
companions; there were also Mallards, Pochards,
Coots, and other similar birds in great numbers.
We were soon afloat with some boatmen, who
have been employed by Cerva for years, and I was
surprised to find them using the scientific names of
the birds as if they were perfectly familiar with
them. We had not proceeded very far when I saw
a Black-necked Grebe sitting on its nest at a little
distance, and pointed it out to the rest. This
species was quite new to me, and I was naturally
rather pleased at having found a nest, but the
men proceeded on their way, saying we should
soon see plenty more. Sure enough, we did see
plenty more, and nearly always found them nest-
ing in small colonies. The Black-necked Grebe
appeared to be the predominant species, but with
them was sometimes a single nest of the Little
Grebe (Podiceps minor), or of the beautiful Crested
Grebe (Podiceps cristatus). It was very late in the
year (June 11), and the clutches were small and the
eggs much incubated. None of the nests of Podzceps
nigricollis contained more than three eggs, the
majority only two. Like all Grebes’ eggs which
have been laid more than a few days, these were
stained a dark mahogany brown from the feet of

184 BIRD-HUNTING

the birds and the wet, rotting weeds of which the
nests were composed, and with which the eggs
were also covered.

Here I also heard for the first time in my ex-
perience the curious, reeling note of Savi's Warbler
(Locustella luscinioides), which vanished from our
Eastern counties more than fifty years ago, owing
to the drainage and reclamation of the fens. It was
in all probability never an abundant species with us,
or it would not have disappeared so utterly and
completely as it has done, for after all there are
still remaining plenty of suitable and extensive reed-
beds in Norfolk and elsewhere. It nests here more
or less abundantly, but at this late date it was quite
useless to expect to find eggs.

Larus rvidibundus, the Black-headed Gull, was
common, but I only picked out one clutch of well-
marked eggs for the sake of having some from this
locality.

Of the Pochard (Anas ferina) we found several
nests. One of them held nine eggs, but another
had evidently been recently discovered and looted
by that incorrigible egg-sucker, the Marsh Harrier
(Circus ceruginosus). This fine-looking bird may
be seen constantly all over Europe. At any rate
wherever I have been I have always met with it
frequently, gliding along with easy and buoyant
flight over marsh and reed-bed and open country,

NEST OF WHITE-WINGED BLACK TERN (HYDROCHELIDON LEUCOPTERA)
[To face page 185

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 185

never in forest districts, where it is quite out of
place. It is very bold, and will approach shooters
in the most impudent manner. Even if fired at
and missed it will come again within shot directly
afterwards; and it is curious how easy it is to
miss a Marsh Harrier. Its vulnerable surface is,
I suppose, small in comparison with its imposing
spread of wing, which makes it look very much
larger than it really is. During the nesting season
they devour immense quantities of eggs and young
birds. I have seen them, when picked up after
being shot, so full of yolk and white of eggs that it
has dribbled out of their beaks. But after the breed-
ing season I am convinced that they do a certain
amount of good by catching rats, mice, and other
destructive rodents, and also probably a certain
proportion of beetles, locusts and large insects.
The harsh note of the Great Reed Warbler was
as usual in such places a very conspicuous feature,
and slung between the upright stalks of the reeds
were several nests. It is always a very late breeder.
I had left it on the Montenegrin and Albanian
frontier in May, not having yet commenced nesting
operations. Here some of the eggs were incu-
bated, but others we found quite fresh. They seem
to wait until the reeds are grown to their full
height before they begin to build their beautiful
and interesting nests. (I have noticed the same thing

186 BIRD-HUNTING

with the Small Reed Warbler, having found eggs as
late as August, both in Norfolk and in Essex.)
Several nests of the Black Tern (Hydrochelidon
nigra) were also found.

The next day we drove to the farther end of the
lake, in a typical country wagon without springs,
sitting on sacks filled with hay or straw, along a
typical Hungarian road, sandy and very rough, and
bordered the whole way with acacia-trees. Hay-
making was in full swing, and working in the fields,
vigorously swinging the scythe through the tall
grass, were many women, clad in blue jackets and
white skirts. But they are very big women, surely,
in Hungary, and given to tobacco. There is one
with a well-coloured clay pipe in full blast. And a
beard! Why, they are men after all! Men in
petticoats! They are really divided skirts, or very
long and very, very wide linen drawers ; but the
effect is exactly that of a petticoat or skirt, and looks
very incongruous, especially for men working in the
fields. One can understand women desiring to
emancipate themselves from the inconvenience of
skirts and petticoats, but that men should go out of
their way thus to hamper themselves is past all
comprehension. The head-gear with this astonish-
ing costume is a very hard-looking, broad-brimmed
black felt hat.

Our boatmen on this second day were attired

)

NEST OF LITTLE BITTERN (ARDETTA MINUTA

(To face page 187

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 187

in this petticoat costume, and perhaps it is not so
out of place in a boat. On occasions it is even
convenient, for wading it is very easy to pull up
one’s skirts, or trousers, shall we say? and wade
deep without getting any garment wet. These men
were equally as intelligent as those of the previous
day, and knew exactly where to take me for any
bird I desired.

The very first nest seen was one of the rare and
local Luscenzola melanopogon, built at the outside of
a ‘clump’ of tall reeds. This nest was extremely
long and compressed between the close reed-stalks
about a foot from the water. The bird resembles a
very well-marked Sedge Warbler, but the markings
about the head are nearly as conspicuous and well
defined as those of a Whinchat. An attempt to
photograph this bird was a failure, from the impossi-
bility of hiding either myself or the camera; but
during the time I was waiting I had plenty of oppor-
tunity to see it at close quarters, as it crept about
the clump of reeds in the near neighbourhood of
the nest, and to hear its peculiar note.

There were plenty of Bearded Tits (Panurus
brarmicus), and my experiences with these birds in
the Norfolk Broads, their last stronghold in England,
enabled me to find several nests where one would
naturally expect to find them, among the rough
tangle of dead stuff at the bottom of the floating reed

188 BIRD-HUNTING

islands just above the water. But there were also
several nests built underneath a rough sort of pent-
house formed by tying a handful of growing reeds in
a knot and bending down the upper part. Whether
these had been made by the boatmen purposely for
the Bearded Tits, or for some other purpose, and
taken advantage of by the birds, I do not know and
could not ascertain, for I was unable to talk to my
boatmen at all, except just the Latin names of the
birds. Even with Herr Cerva, who was in another
boat, I could only speak with difficulty, his know-
ledge of English being limited, and eked out with
the constant use ofa small dictionary. But one thing
was certain, the men always looked under each of
these rough shelters for nests, and very often with
success.

I hardly expected to find the Purple Heron
(Ardea purpurea) nesting at such a late date, but
on mentioning the name to my man he at once took
me to a small colony in an out-of-the-way corner.
The eggs were naturally much incubated, and no
nest held more than three eggs, most of them only
two, being probably second layings.

On the way thither we passed two nests of the
Little Bittern (Avdetta minuta). The first had
been known of before by my boatman, but since his
last visit to the spot it had been looted by a Marsh
Harrier, and the broken egg-shells were strewed

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about the disordered nest. The second was found
by myself, for, thinking that the men were keeping
too much to the narrow, navigable channels, and
seemed very averse to getting their feet wet, I
stopped my boat ata likely-looking place and waded
through the tall reeds. I had not gone very far
before I was waist-deep in mud and water, the
water being very deep in this lake and the bottom
very uneven, but I soon found another nest of
Ardetta minuta containing five eggs, which proved
to be much incubated. The nest was very small
and slight, just a collection of small, dead reed-
leaves and stems at the base of the growing reeds,
on which the five white eggs were conspicuous
enough.

The Little Bittern is one of the most extraordinary
birds I know. It is quite small—not much more
than a foot in length—and its colour is dark greenish-
black and light buff, strongly contrasted, but it is
firmly convinced that it is invisible. In this idea
it is justified by results—and this not by carrying
fern-seed, or the invisible cap of fairyland, but simply
by faith in its own power of immovability. When
approached it will grasp the surrounding reeds with
its very prehensile toes and point its yellowish beak
straight up in the air. The long, compressed body,
always kept facing the intruder, is so exactly like
a dead reed-stem as to:escape notice from all but

190 BIRD-HUNTING

the most keen-sighted observer. The dark back
also much resembles the hard black shadows among
the reed stems in the bright sun. Such faith has
the bird in this extraordinary device that it will
often allow itself to be caught alive by the hand. I
have, in fact, done so myself, and have read of
many similar instances.

The country here can hardly be called picturesque.
With the exception of the acacia-trees, always to be
found in the villages, and frequently bordering the
roadsides, there is hardly a tree to be seen. You
may drive for hours over undulating sandy plains,
with nothing to break the horizon line save an
occasional belt of acacias in the distance, or the long
lever of the old-fashioned well, around which stand
innumerable numbers of the white, long-horned
cattle, so characteristic of the Hungarian plains,
with their attendant herdsmen either mounted or
on foot, and sometimes groups of uncouth-looking
buffaloes.

The Hungarian cattle have most formidable
horns. A pair in the new Museum of Agriculture
in Budapest measure across the span 2°35 metres.

This museum was only opened on the 8th of
June, 1907, and it is a striking testimony to the
extraordinary advance of the Hungarian nation.
In fact, when one sees the beautiful city of Budapest
and its many fine buildings it is almost impossible

NEST OF WATER-RAIL (RALLUS AQUATICUS)

(To face page 190

NEST OF LIVTLE CRAKE (PORZANA PARVA)

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(Te face page 191

THROUGH WILD EUROPE IgI

to realize that only 250 years ago it was still in the
paralyzing grip of the Turk. When the Turks left,
the population of Budapest was 250, now it numbers
800,000, and the city is second to none in Europe
in the beauty of its public buildings, its wide streets,
and its evident prosperity.

For long almost exclusively a pastoral country,
breeding horses and rearing cattle being the chief
industry of its people, Hungary has recently realized
the importance of agriculture, and her vast plains
now produce great quantities of wheat, maize, roots,
tobacco, and vines.

If the magnificent show of modern agricultural
implements and specimens is a proof of the up-
to-date and progressive state of things in rural
Hungary, the models and implements in the ethno-
graphical section show vividly the domestic occupa-
tions of the original inhabitants of the country—the
primitive herdsmen, shepherds, and fishermen, the
forerunners of the great Hungarian nation. Among
other interesting objects one may see a series of
models representing the evolution of the house.
From the first rude wind-screen of reeds or bushes
erected by primitive man as a protection against
the elements, we can see the slow stages by which
his posterity advanced towards civilization, until the
four walls, and finally the roof, placed him in posses-
sion of a home. And in the country villages to-day

192 BIRD-HUNTING

one sees the same type of house as these earliest
buildings. No doubt they are larger and better
furnished, but they are the same low, whitewashed
and reed-thatched cottages, standing each by itself,
and scattered irregularly on each side of the wide,
sandy road.

Goose-keeping seems to be a universal village
industry, judging from the multitudes of geese one
meets with round the villages. Each flock is guarded
by a child, who accompanies them everywhere, and
sees that one hissing family does not get mixed up
with another while grazing along the roadsides or
disporting themselves in the village pond. On hot
days these ponds are full of a mixed crowd of naked
children, geese, and yellow goslings, all enjoying
themselves hugely in the muddy water.

Under Herr Cerva’s guidance I visited a distant
marsh where we found many birds nesting of great
interest to me. It was an extraordinary place; no
stranger could have told that there was a marsh at
all. It looked exactly like the surrounding country,
being grown over with grass instead of the high
reeds and water-plants generally found in marshy
situations. Almost the first thing to be seen close
to the roadside was a colony of Black Terns and
the beautiful White-winged Black Terns (ydro-
chelidon leucoptera) apparently flying and hovering
over a field. But to reach the nests it was

(To face page 192

WHITE-WINGED BLACK TERN (HYDROCHELIDON LEUCOPTERA)

NEST OF SPOTTED CRAKE (PORZANA MARUETTA)
[To face page 193

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 193

necessary to wade knee-deep for some distance. The
eggs of the latter species are generally somewhat
greener in colour than those of the Black Tern,
and, like them, boldly splashed with dark markings ;
but sometimes a clutch may be so like the allied
species that it is necessary to identify the birds to
enable one to be perfectly sure. It came on to rain
heavily while I was fixing up the camera at the
nest of a White-winged Black Tern, and though
the bird came on twice in a short time I was
somewhat doubtful about the results. However,
fortunately they turned out better than I had
expected.

A little farther on, in a clump of grass surrounded
by water, was a Spotted Crake (Porzana maruetta)
sitting on thirteen eggs. The bird itself was caught
on the nest, and proved to be the male; and later
we found another containing eleven eggs.

In another part, where the water was much
deeper and the vegetation more marsh-like, was a
nest of Water-rail (Rad/us aguaticus) containing eight
eggs, and one of the Little Crake (Porzana parva)
with seven eggs. Big clutches seemed to be the
fashion in this locality, as we afterwards took a nest
of the Little Grebe containing the, to me, extra-
ordinary number of seven eggs. On the drier
ground was a solitary nest of Pratincole (G/areola

pratincola) with three eggs.
13

194 BIRD-HUNTING

In another direction, in a belt of small acacias, we
found two nests of the Red-footed Falcon (Fako
vespertinus), one of which contained young birds,
and the other four eggs. In the same belt was the
empty nest of a Lesser Grey Shrike, the owner. of
which anxiously watched our movements until we
were at a safe distance.

Proceeding alone, under the guidance of a small
boy who declared his knowledge of a Golden Oriole’s
nest, I was surprised to find it on a very small
and slender acacia, at a height of about ten feet
from the ground. So slender was this tree, that it
could not support the weight of the boy, whom I
sent up for the eggs, and I had to call him down
again. I then cut down the tree with my knife,
but after all, to my regret, the nest was empty. It
was the first I had seen outside of a museum, and
was a beautiful specimen of bird architecture. The
hanging cradle, suspended between the fork of a
branch, was supported by broad strips of flexible
bark, and was composed to a great extent of pieces
of white paper.

This was the last nest I saw in Hungary, for the
lateness of the date (June 13) made it imperative
for me to hurry on to Roumania before I lost the
best of the season there. The fact was that my
plan of campaign was much too comprehensive
and ambitious. To work countries so far distant

+61 av 22nf0 7)

(vIaWwiIve SN'IOINO) ATOMMO NTATOO TO SN

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 195

from one another as Montenegro, Albania, Hungary
and Roumania in one season was a great mistake.

Arriving as a stranger in a new country, unable
to speak the language, it is simply impossible to
begin work at once. Sometimes weeks have to be
spent in interviewing officials, obtaining permission
and information, engaging guides, and overcoming
unexpected obstacles of every description, before
one can even commence operations. Then as
soon as one begins to understand the ways of the
people, and to find out where to go, and how to set
to work, it is necessary to move on, leaving many
things which are not quite ready, or which are too
remote, so as to be in time for something else in a
distant country where the same difficulties have to
be gone through again de ovo.

If a country is worth working at all, one whole
season is none too long for anything like a good
result, and for the photographic naturalist a season
in Hungary ought to be very productive of good
and interesting results.

xX

THE BALKANS REVISITED—-I907

Earty in 1907 I received another commission to
revisit the same countries in Eastern Europe as
the previous year, in order to search for the larger
raptorial birds, to procure more eggs of Pelecanus
crispus and Ardea alba, and if possible to dis-
cover a breeding-place of Pelecanus onocrotalus in
the Dobrudscha, together with any other species |
could find.

An early start was necessary, and accordingly I
left England on the 2nd of February in the hope of
being perhaps able to find a nesting-place of the
rare Lammergeier (Gypietus barbatus), which is now
on the verge of extinction in Europe. A very early
breeder, its nesting-places in the most remote moun-
tain ranges are extremely difficult to reach before
the young are hatched on account of the deep snow
which prevails in the early parts of the year. If it
were not for this it would in all probability have
been extinct before now, for the habit of laying out

of strychnined carcases for wolves, by the shepherds
196

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 197

and herdsmen in Spain, and other mountainous
countries, has resulted in the destruction of great
numbers of these and other raptorial birds, and
they are in consequence of extreme rarity. A few
pairs may still perhaps linger in the most inaccessible
of the Spanish sierras, and these, with a pair or two
in the Carpathians, and in Bosnia and Greece, are
now all that remain in Europe.

My first intention was to visit a certain range in
the Carpathians where I had heard of its recent
existence, but at the last moment news of the ex-
ceptional depth of snow, which rendered the locality
absolutely inaccessible, made an alteration of plans
necessary. I went therefore instead, first of all to
Corfu, to discover, if possible, the whereabouts of a
nest from which a young bird had been taken in the
previous year, and which was now a captive at a
small wine shop in that island. It was thought pro-
bable that it had been procured from the mountains on
the mainland opposite, either in Albania or Greece.

The journey began badly. There was much snow
everywhere, and it was certainly cold, but I think
on the whole that travelling outside on the roof
of the carriage would have been preferable to my
experience inside. The German idea of comfort
when travelling apparently is to shut carefully all the
windows and ventilators, to turn the steam-heating
apparatus full on, and to stew in their own juice.

198 BIRD-HUNTING

As my carriage was very full, and everybody smoked
incessantly the thin and very rank cigars so popular
in the Fatherland, I was very nearly poisoned with
the foul atmosphere, reeking with vile tobacco and
bottled-up Germans. Then, either when driving
through Vienna, or at Budapest on my way to the
hotel in an open cab I must have taken a bad chill.
At any rate I felt so ill that I had to go straight
to bed, and remained there about twenty-four hours
before I felt equal to going to see my friends at the
museum and the Ornithological Bureau.

Though I was anxious to start again as soon as
I could, it was impossible to escape their hospitality,
and we all met one day at the Zoo restaurant for a
friendly dinner, at which I was the guest, and after-
wards went over the gardens. These are not worthy
of Budapest. In fact, instead of the restaurant being
a necessary adjunct to the Zoo, this is merely a side
attraction of the restaurant. The animals are badly
housed, and not too well looked after.

This year the chief attraction was the lion’s cage,
where were to be seen two little lion cubs as playful
as kittens, and to all appearance perfectly strong
and healthy. There was a Lammergeier in good
plumage, and one or two other interesting things;
but as a zoological gardens it is the worst I have
yet seen, even worse than at Lisbon.

After these festivities I pushed on for Trieste and

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 199

just caught the direct steamer to Durazzo. At this
time of year there were no passengers, and I] had
the whole passenger accommodation of the steamer
and the staff of stewards to myself. Even in the
summer, when the boats are full, the Austrian-Lloyd
service to the Dalmatian and Albanian ports does
not pay. They confess to a very heavy loss, but
are obliged to keep it up to earn the Government
subsidy. It is all a part of the Austrian policy to
keep up the Austrian influence, and to push Austrian
trade in the Adriatic.

On February 10, in the morning, I found myself
once more in Durazzo harbour, and presently landed
on the rickety little wooden pier. Dreading the
custom-house after my experience last year, I sent
one of the boatmen with my card to the Baron, and
waited a short time with my luggage outside. Marco,
the kavass, soon appeared, the Baron being engaged,
and we had the things carried in.

The photographic things were not noticed this
time, but they soon discovered a bandolier of car-
tridges which put them on the right scent, and the
gun and rifle were quickly unearthed, though I had
taken them to pieces, packing the stocks and barrels
separately. Then a box of revolver cartridges was
found, and I was asked for the revolver. As it
happened I had a revolver in my pocket and a single
Smith & Wesson in my luggage, both of the same

200 BIRD-HUNTING

calibre, so I gave up the single barrel and stuck to
the revolver. A walking-stick collecting gun which
I had in my hand was not recognized, and con-
sequently escaped ; but all the other weapons and a
number of cartridges were confiscated in spite of all
I could say or do.

Baron B——- took me up to the Consulate for
breakfast and introduced me to the Baroness his
mother, and to his sister, who were staying with him
for a short visit on their way back from Corfu. But
he advised me to proceed at once by the same
steamer to Corfu to investigate the Lammergeier,
and return to Durazzo later. If I had known this
before I need not have landed my luggage at all,
and so should have saved a lot of bother. For the
Customs officials positively refused to restore the
guns, although I was leaving the country, and I was
obliged to leave them in their clutches, and proceed
to Corfu without them.

Baron: B , however, promised to do his best
to effect their release, and | lost no time in writing

to the British Consul in Scutari, whom I met last
year, and to the Embassy at Constantinople. And
on arrival at Corfu my first step was to interview
there the British Consul, who took me to see the
Turkish Consul.

All this combined influence brought to bear on
the Turkish Customs was not without its due effect,

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 201

for I presently heard from B-—— that the gun, rifle,
pistol and cartridges had been duly delivered to him,
and that he was sending them on by steamer. This
was good news, though I did not want them delivered
to me at Corfu in case of fresh troubles with the
Greek Customs, so arranged to have them kept on
board the steamer while she went on to finish her
round at Constantinople and return, by which time
I expected to be able to leave again for Durazzo.
The Lammergeier I had heard about was found
without any difficulty at a wine shop at the little
village of Achilleon, where the late Empress of
Austria had a palace which has been recently pur-
chased by the German Emperor. It was still in
immature plumage, as was to be expected, seeing
that it was only taken from the nest the year before.
This nest, I was told, was in the Greek mountains
on the mainland to the southwards. But the idea
I had had of going there was abandoned. The
winter had been of quite exceptional severity, and
the mountain ranges of Europe generally were quite
impassable with deep snow. From the island we
could see the snowy summits of the Albanian moun-
tains gleaming opposite, and I heard from some of
the English sportsmen who make Corfu their head
quarters for Woodcock and Wild Boar shooting ex-
peditions in Albania that there was quite sixteen
feet of snow in the mountains, and that the forests

202 BIRD-HUNTING

which clothed the lower slopes were completely
covered. Under these circumstances, especially as
I was still far from well, I considered it wise to give
up the idea. Success even under the most favour-
able circumstances must necessarily be extremely
uncertain ; the expense would be considerable, and
if I knocked up completely from exposure and hard-
ship I might be obliged to abandon the whole
expedition and return home without accomplishing
anything in return for the outlay, which would be
incurred for nothing.

In Corfu itself there is very little to attract or
interest the naturalist. Birds are few and far
between, and during my short visit I saw many
peasants parading their fields armed with rickety-
looking guns with which they fired at every living
thing they could see.

In a creek which nearly bisects the island at the
back of the town, I found a good many Pygmy
Cormorants (Phalacrocorax pygmeus). When I first
saw them they were resting on some stakes, in
the usual quaint Cormorant attitudes, drying their
feathers, not far from a small fishing-house built in
the water. Thither I repaired the next day with a
camera, intent on a photograph, but found the distance
too great. There were many Curlews feeding, also
Mergansers and flocks of small Grebes, I think
Podiceps nigricollis, but there was such a strong

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 203

glaze and ripple on the water that I couldn’t make
out the species with any certainty. Black-headed
Gulls, some of which were already acquiring their
nuptial plumage, were numerous.

In the fields near the town were a few birds.
Great Tits and Blue Tits were noticeable on account
of their bright colours; compared with our birds
they looked positively brilliant. The Robin also
was of the same familiar habits as at home. Black-
birds, Chaffinches, and Wrens were also seen. White
Wagtails were running over the ploughed land and
also Yellow Wagtails; but whether these last were
Motacilla flava or raiz 1 am unable now to say. A
solitary Magpie was the only one noticed, and in
the distance I saw a yellowish-green bird flying
which reminded me of Prcus viridis; but the flight
was direct and straight, not undulating like a Wood-
pecker. It alighted on the top of a tree, where I
could see it perched through my glass; but the
distance was too great for me to be able to determine
the species. A Woodpecker would have alighted,
not at the top, but lower down, nearer the bottom,
and worked its way up to the top. If it had been a
month later I should have put it down for a female,
or young male, Golden Oriole, the plumage of which
much resembles at a distance that of the Green
Woodpecker.

This is not a very long or interesting list of Corfu

204 BIRD-HUNTING

birds ; but I was only there a few days and made
no long excursion into the island, which would no
doubt repay a more careful search. But the weather
was very bad, with heavy rain and cold winds nearly
every day; and I found it necessary to take things
easy and take care of myself so as to be able to start
work in earnest in Albania.

In spite, therefore, of the beautiful scenery, of
which I had been able to see very little, | was very
glad to leave Corfu, and to return to the hospitable
roof of the Consulate at Durazzo.

XI
THE BALKANS REVISITED: ALBANIA

Ow returning to Durazzo I had again to face the
vexations of the custom-house. It will, perhaps,
hardly be believed, but the gun, rifle, pistol, and
cartridges which had been seized before and
returned barely a week ago were again confiscated.
Not only that, but they refused to release any of
my luggage until the next day. I wanted par-
ticularly one portmanteau to enable me to dress
for dinner; but although it had been opened
and shown to contain nothing but clothes they
obstinately refused to give it up. Three times
the kavass went to demand it in vain, and it was
only obtained at last by the urgent representations
of the dragoman attached to the Austrian Consulate,
and then too late to be of any use, and I had to
appear at dinner in knickerbockers.

Once more J had to invoke the assistance of the
British Consul at Scutari, and the Embassy at
Constantinople. They must have been very sick

of me and my guns; but finally a telegram was
205

206 BIRD-HUNTING

received by my friends at the custom-house which
compelled them, zo/ens volens, to disgorge, and they
did so, but with a very bad grace. I have no doubt
they thought they had made a good haul.

But all this took some time to accomplish; and
while I was waiting for a reply a call was made
on the governor—a new one since I was here last
year—and I was formally presented and introduced
by B
after the usual coffee and cigarettes I was introduced
by his Excellency to the head of the gens d’armerie,
who there and then received special instructions
to look after my protection and furnish me with
guards whenever I wanted to make any expedition
into the surrounding country. At the same time
profuse promises were made for the return of my
weapons ; but if it had not been for the influence
I had brought to bear on the authorities, I have
more than a strong suspicion that I should never
have seen my things again. It came to light,
moreover, that by a treaty or agreement between
Turkey and Great Britain, which B
found among his papers, that I was within my
rights in bringing weapons for sporting purposes
into the country for my own use, although otherwise
the importation of arms is strictly forbidden.

As for the offer of guards, B thought it ad-
visable, as a matter of policy, and not to offend

He was, of course, politeness itself, and

luckily

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 207

the authorities, that I should avail myself of their
services from time to time. Last year the then
governor had protested at my riding about the
country as I did, and declared it was not safe.
As a matter of fact I was a good deal safer with
Marco riding behind with a magazine rifle, and a
revolver in his belt, without counting my own rifle
and revolver, than under the safe conduct of his
men. Not that they would dare to do anything to
harm a foreigner, especially an Englishman; but
they are not above robbing the country women of
their few ornaments when they meet them alone, and
otherwise acting more like brigands than police.

So one day when I wanted to have a little shoot-
ing in the lagoon, application was made for a man
to accompany me. For his services, and for acting
as retriever, wading into the lagoon to pick up the
birds I shot, I paid rather less than eighteenpence,
with which he was perfectly satisfied. His uniform
was completely in rags, and on his feet he had pink-
and-white striped socks and heelless slippers, hardly
the footgear one would choose for the thick adhesive
mud and shallow pools through which we had to go.
Of course I could only communicate with signs, but
he was very willing and civil. On our way back
I met with a good many Snipe, but it was getting
late, and I found it impossible to see them, as they
dodged round the tall clumps of rushes and settled

208 BIRD-HUNTING

again before I could shoot. The bag in consequence
was light when we returned.

There was a sporting family of Albanians higher
up the lagoon whom we used to employ on duck-
shooting expeditions as boatmen and beaters. But
the boats here are of very primitive construction,
merely rude dug-out canoes, cracked with the heat
of the sun, and exceedingly ancient. On one occa-
sion three of these canoes lashed together failed to
support the weight of B , myself, and the man
who was to paddle us in search of Pelicans. The
water came over the top at such a rate that it was
evidently impossible to proceed in such unseaworthy
craft, and we had to land and devote our attention
to Woodcock on the hillsides instead of the water-
fowl and Pelicans.

Talking of Woodcock reminds me of a beauti-
ful cream-coloured variety with a few pale-brown
markings which had been given me on arrival by
B It had been shot some days before, and
was unfortunately in a very tender state when I got

it; and a Woodcock, especially when fat, is at all
times a very difficult bird to skin. However, I
made a fairly good specimen of it considering that
the feathers were beginning to come out when I
took it in hand.

Later we succeeded in procuring some canoes
able to float us, and had some enjoyable days in

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ara

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THROUGH WILD EUROPE 209

the lagoon after the duck. B used to lie up
among the herbage on one island, and I would do
the same on another at a little distance; while the
man would paddle round and disturb the ducks,
putting up the flocks as soon as they had con-
gregated together. But the pace the Pintails, Teal,
Wigeon and other ducks would pass our stands
was astonishing. Sometimes a falling duck or two
would splash into the water in reply to our fire;
sometimes a cripple would require another cartridge
to stop it; but on the whole the weight of the
bag would be wofully light in comparison with
the expenditure of cartridges. Once I remember
bagging five birds with six cartridges, but as a
rule the results were far less satisfactory ; and when
the man returning from his long round to pick us
up at the end of the day found me empty-handed,
as once happened, I felt rather small.

The fact was that I hadn't fired a shot-gun
for nearly thirty years, until last year, and then
only for collecting purposes, when sitting shots are
the rule; and I was very much out of practice.
I had had plenty of rifle-shooting at a target, but
that, I am convinced, spoils anybody for shooting
flying.

But if I had little to show on some of these
occasions there was generally a goodly lot of duck

to be picked up round B ’s island, for he was
14

210 BIRD-HUNTING

a good shot. He was also the most enthusiastic
sportsman I have ever met, and would cheerfully
go through any fatigue and discomfort for the sake
of a little shooting. The enjoyment he would get
out of these rough days on the lagoon was quite
infectious, and he was quite as enthusiastic in
watching and observing birds, and would spend
hours in the reed-beds noting the intervals of time
in the booming of the Bitterns, and trying to watch
them at close quarters. He did succeed in finding
a nest with four eggs. Unfortunately this was after I
had left, for it is a nest I have never yet been lucky
enough to see, and a photograph of a Bittern’s nest
is, as far as I know, not yet an accomplished fact.
He was also much interested in archeology, and
possessed a fine collection of coins and objects of
art. The place is full of remains of Greek sculpture,
and as he was known to be a buyer, the treasure-
trove of the neighbourhood was certain sooner or
later to be offered to him. A beautiful female head
in marble, and an exquisite little torso, were among
his choicest possessions. I have seen carved marble
capitals used as door-steps to the rude huts of the
peasants, and sticking out of the town wall; and
they are frequently dug up in working the fields.
The remains of an old Roman road across the lagoon
are still to be seen, and on the hill commanding
the town are the ruins of an ancient castle, either

THROUGH WILD EUROPE ZUI

Venetian or Byzantine. For here, as in the Balkans
generally, various powers have held the place and
given way to others. Durazzo itself has been in turn
Greek, Roman, Venetian, Bulgarian, and Turkish.
The whole of the Balkans is, in fact, one gigantic
battlefield, and there can hardly be a square inch
of soil which has not soaked up its quantum of
human blood. For thousands of years Romans,
Greeks, Turks, Huns, Goths, Tartars, and Serbs
have struggled and fought and died; and it is
curious to reflect that before the Norman invasion
of England there was a vast Bulgarian Empire
governed by a Czar, whose realms included what
are now Bosnia, Herzegovina, Dalmatia, Servia,
Albania, and a goodly portion of Turkey and
Greece.

But this ancient Bulgarian Empire fell, as did every
Christian state south of the Danube, except Monte-
negro, into the all-devouring power of the Turk.
They even attacked Vienna, and until comparatively
recent times Budapest was a Turkish town. The
petty jealousies of the various Christian sects could
make no stand against the united strength of the
followers of Mohammed.

Even to this day the bickerings and jealousy
between the Greek and the Roman Catholic
Churches, as well as the jealousy of one great
power of another, all help to keep the Turk in

212 BIRD-HUNTING

Europe. And it is the greatest reproach against
England by the Balkan peoples that Turkey is
solely able to remain by her influence in maintaining
the séatus guo. There is no doubt that by rights the
Turks should be driven out entirely, being as they
are a retrograde power, utterly opposed to all progress
and enlightenment.

The Pelicans seemed to be in smaller numbers
than last year, but they were just as shy and watch-
ful as ever. They drew the line at any approach
nearer than 300 or 400 yards, even when we
lay down flat in one of the small dug-out canoes,
and were paddled slowly and cautiously towards
them. It was hopeless to try to get within gun-
shot ; and though one day I had several shots with
my rifle, lying down in a wobbly canoe makes rifle-
shooting very uncertain work at such a distance, and
I never succeeded in hitting one of them, though
they had some extremely narrow escapes.

We had planned to revisit the nesting colony by
boat, intending to sail down the coast with tents,
&c., and camp out again on the shores of the lagoon.
When the day came, however, such a strong sirocco
wind was blowing that the attempt by boat had
to be abandoned, and we determined to ride as
before. As the weather was still (March 13) very
cold, we took my tent as well as B ’s, so that
the men should also have some shelter at night.

LITTLE BITTERN (ARDETTA MINUTA)

PELICAN ON NEST (PELECANUS CRISPUS)

{To face page 214%

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 213

We were quite a formidable party as we rode out
in the morning. Marco, of course, followed us
perched on top of the big pack-saddle, but as the
horse we had hired for him was not up to the
combined weight, I had presently to dismount, and
to ride his groggy-looking beast, while my old
friend the black, Shaztan, was allotted the heavy
pack, plus Marco, under which he did the long day's
journey over rough country with perfect ease. Then
there were three other pack-horses with the tents,
each in charge of a man, the Baron and myself, and
two suwarries; mounted zaptiehs or genus darmes,
with their rifles and bayonets. These we engaged
ostensibly for our protection, but really so as to
guard against the possibility of the natives getting
into trouble with the local authorities for assisting us
on the journey, and to show them that we were
acting with the permission of the governor. For as
last year the head-man of the village had been
imprisoned for giving us hospitality for a night, the
natives everywhere would naturally be very un-
willing to assist us, and might even oppose our
progress if they thought we were engaged in
anything underhand or against the Government.

This time we struck out a new route which we
imagined would be shorter, and hoped to do the
whole journey in one day. As it happened, how-
ever, the advantage we had gained in actual distance

214 BIRD-HUNTING

was lost by the absence of a ferry or ford over the
river we had to pass, which we had expected .to find
lower down nearer the mouth. We found there no
signs of any ferry, and from inquiries made among
the few people we met on the way it turned out that
we should have to ride some distance up the river
to reach the ferry we had used last year, which was
the only one. We therefore halted at a house close
to the extensive ruins of an old Turkish castle, on
whose broken walls and crumbling battlements were
thousands of Jackdaws, now the only inhabitants of
what at one time must have been an important
stronghold.

We were as usual most hospitably received, and
regaled with cigarettes, coffee, and vakz, while they
killed and got ready a turkey for our dinner, and
prepared sundry weird concoctions in the shape of
sweets. Just before the actual dinner was served
they brought us the wings, which had been pulled
or broken off and roasted.

In the morning we started off again for the ferry,
and made for the pine-forest on the opposite side of
the lagoon to where we camped last year, having in
the meantime picked up our old friends the fisher-
men, to whom we had sent word to look out
for us. |

Our camp was pitched by midday under a pine-
tree at the water's edge. From the tent-door we

(To face page 215

PELICANS AT THEIR NESTS (PELECANUS CRISPUS)

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 215

could see the white groups of Pelicans clustered on
their islands, and swimming about in the lagoon.
Numerous Black-headed Gulls were industriously
fishing just in front of us; while in the shallows
were wading birds of various descriptions with
Squacco Herons and occasional Little Egrets, and
overhead were soaring Sea Eagles. These inter-
esting glimpses of bird life before us, with the
sombre depths of the pine-forests behind, made
it an ideal camping-place for two enthusiastic
ornithologists.

After a hasty meal we were soon under weigh in the
dug-out canoes awaiting us, while our men were
busy cutting firewood and getting things snug and
shipshape for the night, and preparing a hot dinner
ready for our return. On the way we shot a Green-
shank, and saw a fine adult Sea Eagle knock over a
Black-headed Gull, which it left behind for us to
pick up.

The three islands used by the Pelicans were
covered with nests. B took the trouble to
count them, and made out 250 nests with eggs. Six
nests held clutches of three eggs, the rest only two.
There were already many freshly hatched young
birds, and the eggs without exception were much
incubated. They must therefore lay very early in the
year, early in February or thereabouts ; and the fresh
eggs taken by us in May of the previous year must

216 BIRD-HUNTING

have been second clutches. This is just what we ex-
pected, for in May we found young birds almost as
big as their parents ; and others of all ages and sizes.
Having picked out some good clutches of eggs, the
cleanest we could find in the hope of their being less
incubated than the others, we returned to our camp
to find everything fixed up comfortably. The men
had made for themselves a high wind-screen of
pine branches, and built an enormous fire for cooking
and to keep themselves warm during the night. To
keep the fire going they had piled up a great stack
of resinous pine-boughs as big as a haystack.
Presently Marco served us up a most luxurious
dinner. The first course consisted of roast leg of
lamb cooked to perfection, followed by tinned apri-
cots, after which came Turkish coffee and cigarettes.
The coffee, I learnt, was made by one of our su-
warries, whose only luggage for four days consisted
of an old blanket, a coffee-mill, and a bag of roasted
coffee berries. It was exquisite. After such a
dinner we felt at peace with all mankind, and
enjoyed a short rest before turning in. It was
bitterly cold at night in spite of the big fire outside,
everything being frozen in the morning, much ice
forming on all the puddles. But in spite of the cold
the men elected not to put up my double-roofed tent,
merely using it as a comprehensive blanket where-
with to cover themselves as they lay round their fire

Liz 280 a2vf of)

LUTIOL WIFHL LV SNVOITAd

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 217

and I dare say they found it warmer. I slept com-
fortably enough in my bag; but B—— complained
of the cold, and the next night used his heavy fur-
coat as a counterpane. But the coldest part of all
was the wash in the open in the morning, stripped to
the waist with a bitter wind blowing enough to cut
the flesh off one’s bones. Honestly I should have
preferred my ablutions inside; but as the Baron
started outside I followed suit, as it would never
have done for an Englishman to funk cold water.
The second morning, however, he was less exacting,
somewhat to my relief. As for our men, I don’t
suppose they washed at all.

The eggs which we had taken the previous day
proved to be a tough job. They were hard sat on,
so much so that I spent the whole day over them,
while B
Pelican or two for me. On his return with a few
eggs and a splendid adult male Pelecanus crispus, we
both set to work, one at each side of the india-rubber
basin, alternately blowing for all we were worth
and hauling out young Pelicans with scissors and
hooked wires. It was a most unpleasant proceeding
snipping them into pieces inside the eggs with fine-
pointed scissors, and then hunting and feeling for
the fragments, and dragging them very cautiously
for fear of bursting open the shells, cutting off the
pieces outside when we came to a bit of leg or a

went off for some more and to shoot a

218 BIRD-HUNTING

head too big to pass through the hole. Luckily the
shells were very big and hard, and I don’t think we
broke many—but the holes were necessarily rather
large for some particular collectors. It was no good
taking too many of these eggs, plentiful as they
were, for we had to carry them back on horseback
a long day’s journey over a rough, roadless country.
We therefore contented ourselves with as many as
could be packed into my shoulder-bag, and I carried
them back myself.

I should have much liked to spend a week ex-
ploring the pine-forests. No doubt the Sea Eagles,
observed daily harrying the Coots and Gulls, must
breed there, and perhaps other raptores, of which
we saw a few (Buzzards, &c.), but we were unable
to delay. It was positively B ’s last sporting
experience in Albania, as he had been transferred to
the United States. The steamer was due in less
than a week, and his things were still unpacked, so
we were obliged reluctantly to turn our backs on the
Pelicans and all the possibilities of the forest.

But before we left the fishermen were set to work
collecting pine-cones. The kernels of the seeds
embedded in the big cones are much used for food,
and are always included in the little dishes served
before a Turkish dinner. It may be noted that
‘kernels of the pine,’ with pistachios, walnuts, hazel-
nuts, and almonds, are mentioned in the tales of the

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 219

Arabian Nights as included among the delicacies
purchased by Amina and Zobeide when they enter-
tained the porter, the three calendars, and the Caliph
Haroun-al-Raschid. The cones are roasted over a
fire until they open, and the pips are then taken out
and peeled. They resemble small peeled almonds,
and have a pleasant nutty flavour. We found them
very nice for dessert, and they go very well with a
glass of sherry or Hungarian wine.

Returning we had to make a long détour, for our
fishermen guides besought us to show ourselves at
their village. It seemed that the inhabitants were
very uneasy about our presence again in their neigh-
bourhood, and were afraid of getting into trouble with
the Turkish authorities, as last year the chief man
had been imprisoned for helping us. They wanted
to see with their own eyes our suwarries, so as to
make sure that we were travelling with the knowledge
of the pasha.

When we reached their village we found all the
men assembled to meet us. We halted a few
minutes to greet them and to pay off the fishermen
who had served us so well. But we couldn't stay
long, as we had a long day’s ride before us, and I
expect they were relieved to see the last of us.

We were very glad to find ourselves back at the
Consulate, for the ride was a-:trying one on account
of the bitter cold wind which was blowing. On the

220 BIRD-HUNTING

way B borrowed my rifle for a shot at a Wild
Goose he had spotted while riding through a plain
near the salt-pans. The bullet I saw strike just
over the bird, probably from his having over-
estimated the distance.

The next few days were devoted to packing and
getting ready for B ’s departure, and in skinning
the Pelican and a Sea Eagle I had laid low with a
rifle-bullet. A few days later a Griffon Vulture was
obtained in the same way.

Before B left me to my own resources I had
arranged to spend a week on the outskirts of a large
forest, a few hours’ ride along the farther side of the
lagoon, with a friendly Albanian family whom I had
met last year. It would be a good opportunity for
trying to photograph some of the numerous Eagles
and Vultures which had been seen by us daily on
our rides abroad, and also would enable me to see
something more of the home life and customs of the
Albanians.

There were an extraordinary number of carcases
of animals lying about the country in every direction,
which had been bogged in the deep mud. On
several occasions I had ridden past Eagles quietly
sitting on low trees and even in quite small bushes,
and had determined not to leave the country without
making an effort to attract them within reach of my
camera.

ore ang amfoz)

SNAUAVY AGNV SHYALINA NVIIMADT

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 221

I had made one attempt at the carcase of a horse,
but it was in a bad place: too near a frequented
roadway, and by the time we heard of it it had been
almost devoured. From the hollow cavity encircled
by the rib-bones, now bare and white, flew a perfect
cloud of Magpies and Hooded Crows, like a legion
of evil spirits, while three or four savage dogs from
some huts which were near tore at the bones and
growled fiercely at one another. I had some diffi-
culty in driving them off. A Golden Eagle sat on
the top of a tree in a neighbouring field, and at least
a dozen Ravens were assembled on another, hardly
condescending to move or even to look round as we
rode past, while four Griffons occupied a dead and
withered stump in the borders of the forest. But I
did no good here, it was altogether too near the
houses, yet-it seemed to prove that the birds were
there and could be attracted by a carcase if I could
find a suitable place provided with a hollow tree in
which to hide, sufficiently remote to be out of the
reach of the dogs, which would be certain to smell
out anything within half a mile.

From my friends’ house, which was on an elevated
hill, there was a good view of the forest and country
round. One evening, while examining the distance
through my field-glass for any signs of birds or nests,
I thought I could make out at a great distance a
large nest on the summit of a tree. I even fancied

222 BIRD-HUNTING

I could see the head of a bird in it. Pointing it out
to one of the Albanians who was with me, he said it
was a Houtin. This meant, I knew, an Eagle or
Vulture ; for, like the Spanish herdsmen, these men
do not know there is any difference, and have but
the one name for both birds. But he said that there
was much water in the forest, and that it would be
no easy thing to reach the spot. However, I made
arrangements to go there the next morning under
his guidance, and see for myself what it was. I
thought that in all probability, judging from the size
of the nest visible from such a great distance, that it
would be that of a Black Vulture (Vu/tur monachus).
For only a few days before I had seen one of these
great birds circling round in company with some
Griffons above the carcase of a donkey as we rode
out from Durazzo.

We found it an hour’s ride to reach this nest, and
certainly there was much water in the forest. These
Albanian forests are very weird-looking places, and
most difficult to penetrate owing to the lack of roads,
the deep mud, the water-logged state of everything,
and the thorns. The trees are chiefly oak and very
large, but in this part they had been lopped and
burnt until they presented the most curious appear-
ance. Their twisted branches and gaunt trunks
divested of bark were of a ghastly dead-white, and
the hollowed trunks were burnt and scorched with

OREST

UNEXPECTED VISITORS IN THE

>

HORSE

‘ONE OF THEM BROUGHT BACK MY

[To face page 223

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 223

fire, looking as black as ink within. The fantastic
shapes of these dead monsters of the forests, and the
strange contrasts of black and white, gave them the
resemblance of skeletons of gigantic beasts which
had been tortured to death in an upright position,
rather than the remains of trees.

When at last we reached the nest, which was
placed on the top of a huge pollarded oak, a fine
Sea Eagle flew off. Having set up the camera and
made a screen of branches, the men and horses were
sent back with instructions to come for me before
dusk, leaving me quite alone in the depths of the
forest—quite alone, that is, as far as I knew. But
after I had been there about two hours, suddenly
and noiselessly, without the slightest warning, two
wild-looking Albanians, in ragged garments but
armed to the teeth with rifles and revolvers, stepped
out from behind the nearest tree. I had been intent
on watching for the Eagle’s return to her eyry, and
had neither seen nor heard anything of their ap-
proach, so that I was completely taken by surprise.

My rifle was leaning against the tree within reach,
and a loaded revolver was in my pocket, but though
they looked two of the most unprepossessing ruffians
I had seen for some time they made no hostile
demonstration, they merely stood and looked at me
silently as though they wondered what on earth I
was up to. Well they might! I must say I also

224 BIRD-HUNTING

wondered what ¢hey were up to, and I wasn’t quite
easy in my mind, for I knew that this forest, like all
the forests in Northern Albania, was infested with
robbers, and I let them see that I was well armed,
and accosted them in Italian, which is very generally
used here. However, they only answered in Al-
banian, which of course I was unable to understand.
Here was a deadlock. However, I tried to show
them by signs what I was about, and handed them
a glass of wine from my flask. In return they rolled
me a cigarette. After this exchange of civilities
there was no fear of anything wrong, and after a
short time I tried to get them to move on, as they
were wasting my time. But they wouldn't budge,
so as it was no good expecting the Eagle to come I
determined to photograph my visitors instead, which
seemed to amuse them mightily, though I don’t
suppose they had ever seen a camera before.

Finally they departed, after stopping three-quarters
of an hour, and left me free to continue my work.

After some time the Eagle came as I was eating
my lunch. Looking up I saw her sitting on a bough
just over the nest, and was so taken by surprise that
I didn’t get the exposure made in time, and she
must have seen me, for she never returned. There
were two eggs in this nest, rather incubated.

To my great surprise, after returning to the
house, while we were having dinner who should

SEA EAGLE RETURNING TO ITS NEST

NEST OF SEA EAGLE (HALIAETUS ALBICILLA)

[Zo face page 225

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 225

come in but my two friends of the morning.
After delivering up their weapons, which were
hung up on the wall with the rest, they shared
our meal—for here anybody passing looks in for a
rest and something to eat as a matter of course—and
afterwards we all slept round the fire together. 1
don’t know if they were robbers or not, very probably
they were, for I knew that my hosts had been in
trouble recently for harbouring and assisting robbers.
But living as they do on the outskirts of the forests
they have to keep in with them for fear of losing
their own cattle, or perhaps having a bullet put into
them from behind a tree if they refuse hospitality
when it is demanded. At the same time, if it comes
to the ears of the authorities they are accused of
being accomplices and imprisoned until a sufficient
backsheesh is paid. Anyhow, the men, whether
robbers or not, were very civil, and one of them
accompanied me into the forest the following day,
and brought back my horse for my return in the
evening.

There was another nest of Sea Eagle not far
away from the first, perhaps 300 yards, not more,
which also held two eggs, both addled.

The number of addled eggs one finds in the
nests of the great Raptores has been, as far as my
experience goes, very large. I don’t know how to

account for it, unless it is that these birds in the
15

226 BIRD-HUNTING

absence of enemies powerful enough to prey on
them, and being but seldom molested by the in-
habitants of these wild countries, live to a great
age, in fact outlive their powers of reproduction. In
the course of the time covered by this book, for
example, I have met with the following addled
eggs of raptorial birds: one Bonelli’s Eagle’s and
two Griffon Vultures’ in Spain, three Sea Eagles’ in
Albania, and one Black Vulture’s in Roumania.

Between these two nests there was an open space
among the trees, in which lay a dead donkey, recently
eaten by Vultures. The bones were picked bare,
and the earth around trampled with many feet, and
covered with splashes of their dung. There was a
big, hollow tree close at hand, in which I thought
would be room to hide myself and the camera.
Accordingly I had another dead donkey brought by
bullock-cart from another part of the forest and
deposited there, while one of the men enlarged with
his axe the interior of the tree.

Here I took up my position early the next
morning hoping for a photograph of Vultures, or
perhaps one or other of the Eagles from the
neighbouring nests. And here I spent four days of
torture. The tree was after all far too small, in spite
of all the axe work, and though I have spent long
hours waiting for birds in many queer positions and
uncomfortable attitudes, never in all my life have |

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THROUGH WILD EUROPE 227

spent such weary hours as in this tight-fitting tree.
I had to stand with my feet straddled out, and it was
impossible to move either of them an inch without
upsetting or disturbing the camera. The worst of it
was that all my four days’ discomfort was utterly
wasted, for I never did one single photograph. The
first day I could see in front of me, on a dead tree
about fifty yards away, three Griffons. For hours
they sat there quite motionless, as if dead donkeys
were the last things in the world they wanted. Each
moment I hoped they would descend, but the hole
in front of my tree was too big to fill up closely
enough for such keen-eyed birds, and finally they
departed silently, no doubt having seen enough to
arouse their suspicions. Magpies, Hooded Crows,
and Ravens, all came to the donkey ; but during the
four days nothing else touched it during the hours of
daylight. And at night it was devoured by jackals,
who dragged it about and finally finished it.

There are a good number of these beasts in
Albania. I often heard them howling at night while
staying on the borders of the forest, and on one
occasion I saw one run in front of us as we were
riding back from our Pelican expedition. The two
mounted guards were in front, and I was about third,
as we rode in single file, so I was too far away to shoot.
The leading guard unslung his rifle, but the beast
vanished into some bushes and was no more seen.

228 BIRD-HUNTING

We afterwards found another fallen hollow tree,
much nearer the house, in fact, it was on one of the
outlying fields worked by my hosts, and sufficiently
far away to be out of the reach of dogs. The
prostrate trunk was a mere shell, and after we had
roofed in the back, which was open, with branches
and straw, and cut a hole for the lens, there was
plenty of room for me to crawl in, and sit com-
fortably, and even to lie down when I wanted a
change. Under the hole we rigged up a rough shelf
for the camera, which did away with any necessity
for a tripod. In this comfortable hiding-place I
spent six or seven days, with a succession of carcases
put down about twenty yards away. First of all |
bought a sick cow, and had it brought in a bullock-
cart and killed on the spot. This was cleared away
to the bones the next day before I could get to the
spot, but no doubt served to draw attention to the
place, and act as ground-bait ; after that I had two
calves and another donkey.

Early one morning soon after I had taken up my
quarters and arranged everything comfortably, I could
hear my guests arriving at the banquet. At first I
could see nothing ; but the scratching of claws over
my head, the croaks of Vultures, and the swish-swish
of heavy wings all around, told me that they were
beginning to assemble. I had only provided one
round hole just large enough to take the lens, so that

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(SIIVDaua SAATIW) AsVOUVD NO SHLIM

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 229

to see what was happening I had to look through the
camera, which was rather a drawback. Very quickly
a host of Griffon Vultures came into view, until there
were about thirty of these huge birds, and one Black
Vulture. The carcase was soon covered with a seeth-
ing mass of hissing, grunting birds, tearing off great
lumps of flesh, arid gulping down entrails until in
little more than an hour there was nothing left but
the bones, when they flapped heavily away, one by
one. I had been very busy all the time exposing
plate after plate ; I did altogether eighteen, but with
no great hopes of success. Most unfortunately the
morning was very dull, and dark, heavy clouds
obscured the light ; and presently it began to rain. I
was afraid they would all be hopelessly under-exposed,
and sure enough such was the case.

The night before, almost at dusk, I had seen the
carcase move suddenly, evidently dragged by some
powerful animal. I thought it must be a dog, and
turned the camera a trifle, and saw a big Griffon
tugging at the farther end. It was astonishing to
see with what ease the bird could pull the carcase,
that of a large calf. It was too dark to photograph,
though I exposed two plates, and then put a bullet
through it, as I wanted askin. It wasa fine female,
with a spread of wing of 251 c.m.

(The Pelican (Pelecanus crispus) we shot was
a male, and measured in length 188 c.m., and from

230 BIRD-HUNTING

wing-tip to wing-tip 288 c.m., while a Sea Eagle
(Haliietus albicilla), measured 210 c.m. across the
wings.)

It is often said that the first bird to arrive at a
carcase is the Raven. Here the first arrival was
invariably a Magpie. First of all the cry of a Magpie
would be heard in the neighbouring bushes, and then
with wavering flight Mag would flit across and alight
on the carcase, soon to be followed by others until
quite a number would be collected together. Then
the Hooded Crows would begin to arrive. Presently
the deep guttural croak of a Raven from the summit
of some tree near at hand would tell me that one of
these birds had made its appearance, and after it had
satisfied itself that all was safe it would fly down and
advance with long hops to the feast. Sometimes I
had from six to a dozen of these birds in front of me
at a time, and could often hear them on the tree-
trunk within a few inches of my head. At times
they made a curious bubbling kind of note, which
might almost be called a song, accompanied with
much puffing of the throat and long throat-feathers.

One day at the end of March I had another
interesting experience in this same tree. After
photographing several Magpies, Hoodies, and
Ravens, two Kites (Mzlvus regalis) appeared
together, and remained some little time, giving me
several chances. Then an Egyptian Vulture came

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THROUGH WILD EUROPE ai

into view of the focusing screen, and there were
quickly nine of these handsome birds quarrelling and
fighting over the calf. A single Griffon also came,
but departed before I could get a plate in. Then
suddenly appeared on the carcase a Sea Eagle,
an immature bird.

All the Neophrons and Ravens retired to a
respectful distance while his majesty dined. It was
a splendid sight to see this noble-looking bird draw
himself up and stare around him in disdain if any of
the Vultures presumed to approach him too closely.
Though he condescended to dine off carrion it
was done in a most dignified manner, with none of
the gulping and gobbling so characteristic of the
Vultures.

The further use of this useful hiding-place was
brought to an end by ploughing being commenced
by my hosts in the field, and it was useless to expect
Vultures, let alone any more Eagles, to come to it.
The dogs also, which had followed the men, had by
now found it out, and quickly finished it.

This family with whom I stayed, a self-invited
guest for a week, treated me with the utmost kindness
and courtesy. They were three brothers, Hilo,
Filipo, and Drek Kanchay, and they all lived
together with their wives and families, as is the
custom here. Inan unsettled country this patriarchal
mode of living has its advantages, three families

232 BIRD-HUNTING

being three times as strong as one single family.
They were Christians, Roman Catholics, of a sort,
as are most of the Albanians, though there are many
members of the Greek Church and Mohammedans
among them; but the Mohammedan influence is
evident in many of their ways and customs. The
women, for instance, do not cover their faces, but
are kept very much in the background. They are
merely servants, and almost beasts of burden, cutting
and carrying in firewood, bringing water from the
well, besides doing all the household work. They
never presume to eat with the men, at all events
when there are guests, but cook and bring in the
meal, eating what is left when and how they can
afterwards. These people had lately built a new
house, since my visit last year, of which they were
very proud. It was quite one of the best I have
seen among the country people, actually provided
with a chimney, through which some at least of the
smoke could escape, and with four glazed windows
which would open and shut! As a rule the
smoke escapes as best it can through the holes
in the roof and walls, and to sit inside enveloped
amid rolling clouds of wood-smoke is a very trying
experience.

In this house lived the men and boys old enough
to carry a rifle, while the women and children kept
entirely to the old house, which was quite detached.

MY ALBANIAN HOSTS—THE FAT MAN IN MIDDLE IS A VISITOR

THEIR WOMENKIND AND CHILDREN

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THROUGH WILD EUROPE 233

But the new house, though so well built of stone
with tiled roof, could only be entered through the
stable; this is the usual fashion. In two-storied
houses the cattle and horses live on the ground
floor, and the people above. The smell can be
imagined. The same arrangement generally prevails
also in Montenegro.

The fire of logs burnt on the open hearth, round
which were spread mats, with sheepskin rugs for
guests, on which we all sat cross-legged or reclining
against cushions. At night two thin mattresses
were unrolled from the corner and spread one on
each side of the fire on the earthen floor, one for
me, the other for Hilo Kanchay, the elder brother,
the rest lay down on the mats about the floor, just
as they were. They never remove any of their
clothes, even sleeping in their head-gear, the white
Albanian fez ; though the head-cloth which is wound
round the fez over the head and under the chin is
taken off on entering the house. It is not con-
sidered good form to step on the mats in boots. On
approaching the fire, boots, or ofankis—the raw-hide
sandals generally worn—are taken off, and left at the
edge ready to be resumed on rising.

An hour before the midday meal or the evening
meal, bottles of va&z, colourless spirit flavoured with
aniseed, were brought out and passed round, and a
plate of sour milk cheese, eaten in the fingers, placed

234 BIRD-HUNTING

in the middle on the floor. Cigarettes made of ex-
cellent home-grown tobacco are smoked incessantly
in long wooden tubes about two feet long. The
raki luckily is not very strong, for it is passed round
continually. As a guest I had a small flask anda
liqueur-glass ; the rest drank from the bottle. And
though I drank as little as possible, it was impos-
sible to avoid taking a little each time they raised
their bottle to me with the Italian ‘Viva,’ or the
Albanian ‘ Pit-mir.’ Then I used to respond either
‘Viva’ or ‘ Bof-mir.’ With two of the brothers I could
speak pretty freely in Italian, as also with a sporting
old chap called ‘Zef,’ who attached himself to my
service. This last was a Scutarine, but I fancy had
left Scutari for the good of his health somewhat
suddenly about two years before.

At first I used to have my meals served separately,
but after I had been with them a few days and had
got to know them better, I hinted that I should
prefer to eat with them; and I think that this made
a good impression and gratified them all.

When dinner was ready the raz and cheese were
put away, and a large round wooden table about four
inches high brought in, while we all squatted round
it, provided each with a long-handled wooden spoon.
Then a large flat round basket was brought, in
which was a big round loaf of maize bread, which
just fitted it. This was cut up by the head of the

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ISHND V ONINIVINTLINA * YOINALNI NVINVATV

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 255

family after devoutly crossing himself, and a large
slab placed in front of each person. Then a bowl
of stewed meat was brought in and put in the middle
of the table. Each man then dipped his spoon in
that part of the central dish which was opposite to
him, using the slab of bread as a plate, or fished
out a piece of meat with the fingers. I used an
aluminium plate out of my basket, and generally
had first dip out of the dish The cooking was
really very good, the meat tender and well flavoured,
and the home-made maize bread excellent. But
during Lent they fast rigorously, living entirely on
bread, cheese, and huge leeks, the biggest I have
ever seen. In the morning before riding off into
the forest I used to have a jug of hot buffalo
milk, with bread broken into it. This buffalo
milk is better and richer than any cow’s milk, and
the cheese from it is first-rate. These ungainly-
looking animals are largely used for beasts of burden,
ploughing, and for pulling the curious carts of the
country with huge solid wheels about eight feet
across, which make a slow and tedious progress of
about two miles an hour, to the accompaniment of
the most hideous and unearthly groanings and
creakings. The first time I heard one of these
carts I couldn’t for the life of me imagine what was
coming, for I could hear the noise long before I could
see the cause of it.

236 BIRD-HUNTING

The Albanians are a fine people, with many good
qualities, and I never felt more comfortable and
thoroughly at home in my life than while living
with them and sharing in their usual mode of life.
Hospitality is their chief virtue, and the person of a
guest is sacred. They are tall men, good-looking,
with piercing eyes and with remarkably small and
well-shaped hands and feet. Always accustomed to
carry arms and to use them, they have a free and
independent carriage, and look a much superior race
to the Turk. I would back an Albanian mountaineer
to account for three Turkish soldiers any day. I
cannot account for the reputation which the Turkish
soldier undoubtedly has as a fighter. All I have
seen in Albania were miserable specimens of
humanity, in ragged uniforms, in down-at-heel boots,
or else in top-boots, which would assuredly be left
behind if they marched a mile over an average
Albanian road, with sullen, brutal, stupid faces with
no redeeming feature or sign of any life, or anima-
tion, or self-respect. If it were not for the Albanians
being divided by three religions, each one jealous
of the other two, I believe they could sweep the
Turk from their country to-morrow, if they could be
properly disciplined under a good leader of their
own race—rather a big ‘if,’ I admit. Still, they
have done it once, four hundred years ago, and they
still remember and mourn for Scanderbeg, their

PLOUGHING WITH OXEN

bie Wives 4
:

ors,

PLOUGHING WITH BUFFALOES

(To face page 236

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 237

national hero, and remember how he freed them
from the Turkish yoke.

Their code of honour may seem peculiar in our
eyes, but such as it is they keep to it religiously,
and, after all, there is much excuse for the custom
of the vendetta among a proud and warlike
people bereft of any semblance of law or order.
They know there is no protection for life or property
except that of their own right hands, and small
blame to them if they exact a life for a life.

We had several impromptu shooting competitions,
in which I could always beat all comers, partly, no
doubt, owing to my being better armed than they
were. Shooting one day at a hen’s egg on the top
of a stack fifty yards away, I only missed once out of
five shots, whereas three of them only made one hit
between them in about a dozen shots, though they
all used a rest for the rifle. With my Greener ‘310
I could put a bullet through a reed-stem every time
at twenty-five yards. With a Smith and Wesson
pistol I could hit a mark the size of a shilling at
twelve yards nearly every time; so that I acquired
a reputation for a good shot, very useful in a country
like Albania.

One day we had a visitor, a tall and handsome
man, who had one arm crippled. They told me
the history of the accident. It seemed that about
twelve months before he had been attacked by two

238 BIRD-HUNTING

men, and had received a Martini bullet through the
arm, but in spite of the wound he had succeeded in
killing both his assailants.

Another visitor we had once in the shape of a
Turkish tramp on his way to Scutari. He arrived
one wet afternoon perfectly plastered with mud from
head to foot, and wet through. We were rather a
large party that day, for several wayfarers had
dropped in, among them two boys not more than
sixteen and eighteen years old, both armed with
Martini rifles. I was glad to see that these boys
and the tramp were given a small table to themselves.
I had been looking forward with apprehension to
having to sit with him, for he was without exception
the dirtiest human being I had ever seen, and
scratched himself in a way that made me very
uncomfortable. They must have noticed it, for he
was allotted the stable to sleep in, a thing which
had never happened during my stay ; and after he
had departed next morning I noticed that they took
the mat on which he had sat outside and gave it a
good shaking.

I was very glad of my indiarubber basin, and
they got used to my washing myself. At first in
these countries they do not think they are showing
you proper respect in allowing you to do so, but
hover around and try to pour water over your hands.
Their own ablutions are very scanty. After sleeping

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 239

in all their clothes, including the fez, they pour a
pint of water over the hands, and give their face a
dab with their wet hands, still with the fez on, and
that is all. At night they used to be exceedingly
interested and amused in seeing me undress and
wash, and get into my pyjamas and sleeping-bag for
the night.

The log-fire, alongside of which we lay, was kept
going all night, and I always slept like a top; but
my companions—and I noticed the same thing in
Montenegro—though in perfect health all day,
coughed all night as though in the last stage of
consumption, and ‘spat all over the floor in the most
disgusting fashion. Luckily they draw the line at
spitting on the mats; this is never done.

On leaving these hospitable people I wanted to
give them something, but it would never have done
to have offered them money. The difficulty was got
over by my giving one brother my watch, a cheap
American 5s. one, and the elder one was immensely
pleased with my spurs. He had borrowed them to
ride into the town on his showy little grey stallion,
and had evidently taken a great fancy to them, though,
truth to say, I didn’t like parting with such old friends,
which have accompanied me into many parts of the
world for at least thirty-five years. However, I had
nothing which would have pleased him so much, and
they had to go. As it happened I wanted them badly

240 BIRD-HUNTING

the very same day, for riding back to the town a
stubborn, hard-mouthed brute of a horse, it took
fright at something and nearly backed over the edge
of a raised causeway about three feet high. I only
had a stick, and the more I belaboured the beast
the more backward it went until we were half over.
I believe we should have gone over if a man had
not seized him by the bridle, and led him past the
offending object. If I had had my spurs I should
never have been in such an ignominious and un-
dignified position, but could have given him a
lesson he would have remembered for some time.
Travelling on these expeditions, when one has to
ride everything in the shape of a horse which happens
to be available, spurs are a seve gua non, and I have
found them invaluable many and many a time.

B ’s successor at the Consulate most kindly put
me up for a day and night until the arrival of the
steamer, otherwise I should have had to stay at
the dirty little albergo in the town. I had already
slept there for a week on first coming to Durazzo,
as the rooms were all occupied at the Consulate.
There is no better hotel, but the place stank most
frightfully, and nothing short of starvation could
have compelled me to have eaten a meal in such a
dirty hole. There had been a venerable-looking old
Turkish officer staying there, with whom I had
promised to change rooms, as it appeared that my

HEAD OF A MOHAMMEDAN MONASTERY
Photo by Baron Bornemisza] [To face page 240

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 241

room had been promised to him first, and that it had
been given to me in the idea that I should only
want it for one night. However, I didn’t have to
give up my room after all, for the old man was shot
dead in his room opposite mine before I could do
so. I had seen him sitting on his bed when I came
round to dress for dinner, and half-an-hour later we
had word that he had been shot with a revolver
twice in the throat by an Albanian whom he had
offended. Afterwards it was given out that he had
committed suicide from fear of arrest for embezzle-
ment. Which was the true version I do not know.

Before I left Albania I had seen the first White
Stork, Swallows, and Hoopoes on April 4.

16

XII
THE BALKANS REVISITED : MONTENEGRO

Wuen the steamer reached Dulcigno on April
6, 1907, there was, as usual, a strong sirocco wind
blowing, and we had to proceed to Val de Noche.

I have always been unlucky on arriving and
departing from this port, having only succeeded
once in landing at Dulcigno itself, and I have
never yet left from there. The sailors of Dulcigno
have the reputation of being the best in the
Adriatic, but all the same I have known the steamer
to be signalled to go round when the wind and sea
have been quite moderate; while I have boarded them
at Durazzo, where the port is equally unprotected,
in a far worse sea, without any great difficulty.

Being obliged to hire three horses to take my
luggage every time adds considerably to the expense.
Passengers, it is true, are but few and far between.
Most travellers visiting Montenegro land at Cattaro
and drive to Cetinje the capital, and so I suppose
the passenger traffic is not worth considering; but

the expense of carrying all goods and merchandise
242

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 243

over the bridle-paths across the mountains, where
there is not even a road, must add very considerably
to the cost of living, and I wonder that they have not,
for their own sakes, before now contrived to make
some sort of breakwater, so as to enable steamers to
call at Dulcigno in all winds. Materials at any rate
are abundant enough in the shape of rocks. Accord-
ing to the Montenegrin legend, when the Almighty
was distributing stones over the earth, the bag burst
and they all fell on to Montenegro.

As we rounded the point, a large boat pushed off
from the shore, packed to the gunwale with an
excited throng of emigrants leaving their native
land for the States. Fusillades of revolver shots
re-echoed from the rocky headlands, and were re-
peated again and again until they drew alongside
the ship. These revolver shots form a very pic-
turesque farewell, and one particularly appropriate
to these warlike people ; but they are not locked on
with much favour by the ships’ officers. And amid
such a frantic crowd, all of whom are singing and
shouting at the top of their voices, it is a wonder
that accidents do not frequently happen, as man
after man, half frenzied with excitement, draws his
huge revolver from his waistband and discharges it
into the air. However, I never heard of anybody
being hurt on these occasions.

The waist of the steamer was soon packed with

244 BIRD-HUNTING

these people and their poor belongings—bedding,
brightly coloured chests, and rude bundles. They
take a deck passage to Cattaro, from whence they
are transhipped to New York. I heard they earned
good wages in the States, and send money back to
their relatives in Montenegro.

Though the passengers—mostly German and
Austrian tourists—and the ship’s officials might
consider them savages, I knew from previous expe-
rience that, despite the shouting and bravado and
flourish of revolvers, they carried sore hearts in their
breasts at parting from their rugged birthplace, and
that sad eyes will strain through the falling tears
for the last sight of the ship as she fades away from
the vision of those left behind on the shore.

But there was no time for sentiment. I could see
several friendly faces as the boat drew near, and as
soon as the Montenegrins had all surged on board I
had my luggage stored away in it, while I inquired
about horses to tranship it tothe town. Nikola was
there, smiling a welcome, and I was overwhelmed
with offers of cigarettes from all and sundry. It
was a very different arrival from that first one only
twelve months before. Even the men in charge
of the packhorses grinned at me delightedly, and
kept rolling cigarettes to offer me as we clambered
up the rocky terraces through the grey-green olive
trees. I felt quite an abztué of the place, and the

L’ALBERGO ATHANASE (THE FRONT DOOR)
[To face page 245

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 245

little town of Dulcigno looked very familiar when we
first sighted the bay from the summit of the hill, and
began our descent through the narrow, stony lane.

However, I was sorry to find that the Albergo
Athanase, which last year was on the shore, had
removed to near the Custom House, whose portly
official, revolver in belt, passed all my luggage with a
wave of his hand, without even opening one of them.

Signora Draga, the patrone, and the fair, or rather
the dark, Melitza gave me a hearty welcome, and
appeared delighted to have me once more under
their roof, where they allotted me a comfortable
enough room. But I missed here the serenade of
the waves on the beach, which used to lull me to
sleep in the little balconied room in my old quarters.
However, it was very pleasant thus returning to so
many old acquaintances. I felt that I was among
friends again, which is not a bad feeling to have in
a foreign country.

But as soon as I had settled down and begun to
get my belongings unpacked and in order, I missed
my revolver. I knew I had had it on the boat
while landing, because I had compared it with that
belonging to a Montenegrin, who had one of a
similar make, but now it couldn’t be found anywhere.
The Montenegrins have the reputation of being
strictly honest—it is said, indeed, that you could
leave a purse of gold on the highway for days and

246 BIRD-HUNTING

nobody would touch it—but I feared that a revolver,
especially one of a superior pattern, had been too
great a temptation to these weapon-loving people,
where everybody is required, nay ordered, to carry a
revolver always, and to carry it loaded.

But J had done them an injustice ; about three
days later the missing revolver was found stuck
inside the mouth of a large sack which contained
my tent. One of the boatmen must have picked it
up and put it where he felt sure I should find it,
without saying anything about it. I was very glad
to see it again; and when Melitza, who had found
it, displayed it dramatically, I had to apologize
inwardly for my doubts as to the national honesty.

I begin to see now why this town appears so
Turkish in character. Of course it zs Turkish, or
rather was so up to thirty years ago, when it was a
Turkish port and part of the province of Albania.

Before then Montenegro for several centuries had
possessed no port nor any coast-line. At a still
earlier date its coast extended from Ragusa to the
mouth of the Drin, the capital being Skodra or
Scutari; but as the fortunes of war have fluctuated,
so the dominions of the Prince of Montenegro have
waxed or waned. But whether large or small,
Montenegro has ever existed a free and independent
State, owning no suzerainty to any other power.

At the collapse of the ancient Servian kingdom in

ALBANIANS

[To face page 246

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 247

the disastrous battle of Kossovo in 1389, the rem-
nant of the conquered Serbs took refuge with their
kinsfolk of Montenegro. And though at one time
or another the Turks have overrun the whole of the
Balkan peninsula as far as the Danube, and over-
thrown every other Christian kingdom, this small
State, the smallest and the poorest of them all, has,
through the centuries of strife and bloodshed, alone
preserved her independence. Again and again have
the Turkish hosts in overwhelming force surged
forward to the attack, only to be repulsed, and
sometimes annihilated, by the hardy and warlike
men of the Black Mountain.

When at last, after having been cut off from the
sea for generations, Cattaro and its famous gulf was
captured, what had been gained by the sword was
lost by diplomacy. The Powers interfered, and
Cattaro was handed over to Austria. Then again,
when Antivari and Dulcigno were taken by the
present Prince, the Treaty of Berlin restored
Dulcigno to Turkey, awarding to Montenegro the
Albanian towns of Gusinje and Plava.

However, the turbulent inhabitants of these places
flatly refused to become part of Montenegro, and
finally Dulcigno was given back, in spite of the
Turkish opposition. In fact, a Turkish army was
advancing to the attack for the purpose of regaining
possession, when the naval demonstration of the

248 BIRD-HUNTING

combined fleets, led by England, off Dulcigno, led
to a cessation of hostilities and confirmed the pos-
session of Dulcignoto Montenegro. To this day the
memory of Gladstone is venerated in Montenegro,
and all Englishmen are treated with respect, so
grateful are they for the timely service done them in
their need.

I was probably the only Englishman in Monte-
negro, unless by chance there might have been one
in Cetinje, and my fame had evidently spread far
and wide. Hardly a day passed but that some
queer visitor did not find his way up to my little
room. Once I was accosted in very fair English by
an Armenian priest who had been in England, on a
begging expedition, of course. He showed me his
collecting-book, in which figured the names of some
of our bishops. To my great relief he didn’t beg
of me; to my surprise also, for I had met these
priests before. In fact, one of them was a passenger
in the steamer I had left quite recently, who was
then actually on his way to England, and spoke of
walking across Europe from Trieste to the English
Channel as if it was the ordinary way of proceeding.
He was rather downcast when I told him of the new
Aliens Act, which would bar his landing in England
unless he had a certain sum of money in his posses-
sion. He had heard nothing about it, but I thought
it only fair to warn him; it would be much better

STREET SCENE

{To face page 249

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 249

than to have it unexpectedly sprung on him without
any notice.

Djouraschkovitch, J heard, had become a member
of Parliament, and was at Cetinje; but my small
knowledge of Italian had rendered me much more
independent than I had been on my former visit to
the country. My first visitor, before I had arrived a
day, was a stalwart young Montenegrin, who came
to offer me his services as guide and hunter as long
as I should remain in Montenegro. As he had the
reputation of being a great ‘ cacciatore,’ I engaged
him, and found him a first-rate fellow. The only
drawback was that he knew no Italian, and I no
Serb. However, I have worked under similar con-
ditions so many times in different countries that I
can generally get on without much difficulty.

Marco lived with his father and mother and
brothers and sisters in a typical grey stone house
on the hill-side at the back of the town.

The Montenegrin houses are very different in
style from the Turkish, being gaunt and bare in the
extreme—mere hollow stone blocks which look as
if they had grown spontaneously from the rocks
around. The shops in the bazaar and the houses in
the main street are mostly Turkish, with heavy
overhanging eaves and closely latticed windows,
picturesque and dirty. They have the unmistak-
able Eastern and Mohammedan look about them,

250 BIRD-HUNTING

thoroughly in keeping with the mysterious figures
muffled in ungainly camel-hair cloaks and huge
pointed hoods which issue from them in flapping
heel-less slippers and white-stockinged feet.

Whether these bundles are beautiful as houris or
hideous as the witch of Endor, it is impossible even
to guess. You can see nothing, not even the eyes,
the whole face being covered inside the cavernous
hood with a coarsely-painted canvas screen.

Even this protection against being seen by an
unbeliever does not appear to satisfy their modesty,
religious scruples, or whatever it is that influences
them ; for they turn their backs on him in the street
and show the greatest reluctance even to pass him.

To see one of these Mohammedan women travel-
ling, especially on board a steamer, is an incongruous
sight. One may be seen sometimes as a deck-
passenger on the Adriatic steamers, where she
looks wofully out of place, and still more so on
the gangway embarking on or disembarking from a
boat. She is terribly afraid of being seen, and
equally afraid of falling overboard. Her baggy,
shapeless clothing and ridiculous little heel-less
slippers handicap her dreadfully, and her own folk
take no notice of her, and never condescend to
assist her in any way. If you forget her prejudices,
and extend a helping hand, as I did once or twice
without thinking, she won't see it, or you. As far

MARKET

IN THE FISH

MOHAMMEDAN DECK PASSENGERS

(To face page 250

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 251

as she is concerned you don’t exist at all, and it is
quite impossible to help her in any way. But if the
Mohammedan woman is a more or less helpless and
ridiculous object, the man, especially when seen at
his prayers, is an impressive figure. One can’t help
realizing that his religion is very real to him—one
to live for and, if necessary, to die for. At the
appointed hour for prayer, wherever he may be, he
goes through the long series of genuflexions and
prostrations enjoined by the Koran, so perfectly
absorbed in his devotions as to be oblivious to his
surroundings, and it makes no difference to him
whether he is in the midst of curious unbelievers,
or in the circle of his own family and faith.

A large proportion of my visitors were beggars,
and amongst their number was a certain ragged and
dilapidated Turk whom I seemed fated to meet
wherever I went. I had seen him first at Durazzo,
where he used to turn up periodically and wheedle
money out of B I had met him again at
Scutari, where he had made himself useful to me
in one or two small employments; again he had
accosted me at Vir-pazar, and now one day he was
ushered into my room in Dulcigno. I knew his
errand perfectly well as soon as I saw him. He
was always, according to his own account, starving,
after just having walked from some distant town,
generally from wherever I had seen him last. If

252 BIRD-HUNTING

he hadn’t always been very moderate in his wants I
might have thought that he had followed me from
place to place, but I could hardly suppose it worth
anybody’s while to walk fifty or a hundred miles for
the chance of a crown or two. Here he wanted two
crowns to make his way to Durazzo, I think. It
was quite worth this small sum to be rid of him, for
[ knew that as long as he remained there he would
waylay me every day. So I gave it to him and he
departed, after trying to kiss my hand to show his
gratitude.

Another more interesting visitor was an elderly
Montenegrin. He told me he had collected birds
for many years with Count Alléon of Constantinople,
both in Turkey and in the Dobrudscha, and pressed
me to visit him at his house in a neighbouring hill
village, where he had bought a small farm. Accord-
ingly Marco and I walked over one day, and were
most hospitably received: too hospitably in one way,
for he pressed his home-grown wine on us as if it
was of the choicest vintage, and though it was like
vinegar in its exceeding sourness, I had to drink
it freely to avoid hurting his feelings. We had a
good dinner, and slept there a night in the hope of
getting a brace or two of Greek partridges in the
morning, for he said there were a good many on the
surrounding hill-sides. Unfortunately the next day
was wet; and though we turned out and made an

(To face page 253

YOUNG GREAT WHITE HERONS

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 253

attempt, the rain was so heavy and the wind of such
piercing coldness that we gave it up and returned
to his house empty-handed. We were waited upon
during our stay by his wife and daughter-in-law—a
handsome Albanian in a striking-looking scarlet
costume. This man and his son spoke good French,
as well as Italian, and had lived in Paris some years.
It was curious to hear them lamenting the absence
of theatres and picture-galleries. ‘Ah, Monsieur,’
said one of them, ‘c'est un pays sauvage,’ speak-
ing of his native country. However, they seemed
prosperous for Montenegrins, and were, I expect,
contented enough; but the sight of a foreigner
had served to awake memories of half-forgotten
experiences. J

There were not many birds to be seen in this
barren and stony country. The most interesting,
because it was new to my experience, was the
Alpine Swift, Cypselus melba. There were fair num-
bers of them flying at tremendous speed, sweeping
along the sides of the rocky valleys and mounting
high up into the sky. Marovitch told me that he
knew a place at some distance where they bred,
but said that it was a matter of extreme difficulty to
reach their eggs. I was glad to receive a specimen
which Marco shot for me the next day at Val de Noche.

All this while I had not forgotten the chief object
of my visit to Montenegro, which was to obtain

254 BIRD-HUNTING

some more eggs of Ardea alba, the Great White
Heron, which I had found breeding last year, but
too late to get more than one clutch of eggs on the
point of hatching. This time I had resolved to
try another locality, not so remote and inaccessible,
where I fully expected to find them.

But though this place was nearer, it was not so
easy to reach as I anticipated, owing to the exceed-
ingly strong current which fills the rivers from the
snow melting on the mountain heights. Marco had
borrowed a rude affair, which I suppose called itself
a boat. It was a dinghy from one of the small
coasters, and was, as usual, miserably equipped with
one crooked oar and a broken paddle, one of which
he wielded while I used the other. Only after
great exertions were we able to force our tubby
craft against the stream. Sometimes we hung at a
ticklish corner, quite unable to stem the current,
and if we relaxed our frantic exertions we were
swept down for many yards. After about two
hours of extremely hard work we finally reached the
spot, and were delighted to find Great White Herons
among the thick reeds. But at this date we could
find no nests. Still, it was most satisfactory to find
them on our first day’s search, evidently thinking of
nesting if they had not already actually begun to do
so. The water was very deep, and we had to
support each other as we struggled through the reeds.

NEST OF GREAT WHITE HERON (ARDEA ALBA)
(To face page 255

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 255

Hoopoes, of which I had seen the first on April 4,
in Albania, were now to be seen daily, and I shot
one this day (April 8), also a Little Owl (Athene
noctua). We saw a large flock of Reeves, and
stalked them successfully, after a long crawl on
hands and knees, only to miss them all ignomini-
ously. On the 15th of April we saw Whinchats
and Pied Flycatchers, and shot a Black Chat. On
this day we paid another visit to the White Heron
locality, and found four nests, in one of which was
one egg; there were also Purple and Common
Herons, apparently nesting, or about to nest, in
close proximity.

On the 15th of April I obtained a pair of Marsh
Sandpipers (Zotanus stagnatilis) and a female
Lesser Kestrel. On the 22nd of April we visited
again the Heron colony. The nest which had held
one egg a week ago now had four, which I took.
It was built very high up in the reeds, so much so
that I had some difficulty in reaching the eggs from
the deep water in which I stood. I also took four
eges of Ardea purpurea, the Purple Heron. As
there were many nests of the White Herons with
one egg only, I determined to leave them for some
days. On our way back Marco knocked over, with
a long shot, a fine Drake White-eyed Pochard
(Fuligula nyroca).

While waiting for more eggs from this colony I

256 BIRD-HUNTING

paid a flying visit to the locality of last year.
Meeting the jovial ‘capitan’ of the little frontier
village, he invited me to ride back with him. I did
so, returning to Dulcigno the next day.

Unfortunately, there was so much water that we
couldn’t reach the reed-bed in which I found them
nesting last year. I had three or four shots at
Pelicans fishing on the river bar, but at very long
range. I had to put up the qoo-yard sight to reach
them, and failed to secure one. We saw the first
Golden Oriole on our way back, and some Pratin-
coles, of which we got one, shot by Nikola, who had
walked over when he heard I was going there—I
believe in order to see that I didn’t get into any
danger. He is now a gens darme employed by the
Customs. I bought at this place some Turkish
tobacco of the finest quality, at the rate of something
under one shilling per pound.

On the 25th of April I paid a final visit to the
Great White Herons, and took six more clutches of
eggs ; leaving many nests untouched which held
only one or twoeggs. I tried the automatic camera
at these nests, and it had gone off when I returned,
but I found no bird on the plate when developed.
Probably the wind had moved the reeds to which the
thread stretched across the nest had been attached.
All automatic devices are necessarily very uncertain
in their action, unfortunately. I should have liked

GREAT WHITE HERON (ARDEA ALBA)

[To face page 256

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 257

to wait at these nests for a photograph of the birds,
as I did last year, but the water was excessively
deep, and it was only with great difficulty that I
could reach some of the nests at all. My man
always looked very anxious when I left the boat
and disappeared from his sight into the depths of
the reed-bed, and very relieved when I turned up
again all right.

For the sake of identification I shot, as ] thought,
a pair of birds, for one of them had such long plumes
that I felt sure it was a male. On dissection,
however, they both proved to be females.

Marco couldn’t accompany me on this last day,
for his old father had died on the previous day, after
an illness of some weeks. I had seen him only four
days before, when the poor old chap, then on his
death-bed, crawled out of bed and tottered to his
feet in order to examine my gun, and have the
action explained to him. It was a striking example
of the love of arms so universal in these countries,
and a case of ‘the ruling passion strong in death,’
for within four days he was dead from exhaustion,
having been unable to retain any food for some
weeks.

I went to the funeral, and a most painful scene it
was ; for these people, so hardy and so accustomed
to bloodshed, are as simple and as emotional as

children. Marco, big as he was, fairly lifted up his
17

258 BIRD-HUNTING

voice and fowled—no other word expresses it—
while the women gave way to paroxysms of sobs
and weeping, and had to be almost carried from
the grave-side.

I did not go into the church, being somewhat late,
but sat outside with crowds of sympathizing neigh-
bours ; but I thought the elaborate musical service
cruelly long, especially for such a people, compared
with the merciful brevity and simplicity of our
burial service.

A day or two later I bade farewell to all my
friends in Montenegro, and embarked for Trieste
amid a salvo of revolver-shots.

Trieste being only six hours from Venice, and
having to stop on the way until I could procure
some money from the bank at Budapest, on which I
had a letter of credit, I ran across there to wait for
the necessary funds to be remitted to me by post.

After a couple of days in this beautiful place,
which I had never before seen, I proceeded to
Budapest, ex route for Roumania, for a_ second
attempt to find a nesting colony of Pelecanus
onocrotalus in the Delta of the Danube.

XIII
COLLECTING IN THE DOBRUDSCHA

I now return to the previous years’ work.
Arriving at Bucharest about the 2oth of June,
1906, I found everybody in a state of excitement
over the exhibition, which was on the point of
opening. I had introductions to the British Embassy
and to the Minister of Agriculture and Fisheries,
and other officials, to present before proceeding to
the Dobrudscha ; but everybody was so occupied
that I was obliged to remain, whether I liked it or
not, in spite of the lateness of the season, until it
was opened by the King and Queen of Roumania.
Exhibitions do not appeal to me, but to pass the
time, as I had nothing to do, I went to see what
there was. This was mighty little. Whether it
was better worth a visit later on I do not know, but
when first opened there was absolutely nothing to
see. The Austrian pavilion was the only exhibit
ready; the other buildings were, without excep-
tion, either empty or locked up and in a state of
confusion.

Bucharest is a gay little town, and possesses the
259

260 BIRD-HUNTING

finest cabs and the most imposing cabmen I have
ever seen. The Roumanians like to compare their
capital to Paris on a small scale, but I was very
glad to get away as soon as I could, provided, by
the kindness of the Minister of Fisheries, with a letter
of introduction to the Administrator of Fisheries at
Tulcea.

Leaving Bucharest by the night train I was at
Galatz early the next morning in time to catch the
steamer for the little town of Tulcea, which was
reached soon after midday.

There are a good many tiresome formalities to be
observed on entering Roumania, where bureaucracy
and red-tapeism reign supreme. It is one of the few
countries in Europe which insists on travellers being
provided with passports, and these have to be viséed
and stamped and inspected ad nauseam. Though |
had shown my passport at the frontier, the same
formality had to be again gone through at this little
place before I could seek ‘mine inn.’ There are
two little inns here which call themselves ‘hotels,’
but the accommodation is of a very humble charac-
ter. Still, the bill is of a corresponding humility ;
and the traveller, if not too exacting, can make
himself very comfortable as long as he has some-
thing to do to occupy his leisure.

To lose no time I called at once at the office of
fisheries, but, as usual, was doomed to waste time

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 261

in spite of myself, for the administrator was away,
and I had to wait for a day or two.

When at last he returned, and I explained my
desire to find a nesting-place of Pelecanus onocro-
talus, he was kind enough to propose that I should
accompany one of his inspectors who was starting
early the next morning on a tour of inspection to
the stations in his district. By this means I should
cover the whole, or nearly the whole, of the Delta
district of the Danube, and he promised to give
instructions to the inspector to make all necessary
inquiries ex route of the fishermen and the officials
in charge of all the depéts.

This was too good a chance to lose, and I lost
no time in getting ready for the expedition, which
promised to be an interesting one.

Here, in Roumania, the fish, and all other natural
products, as far as'I could see, are presumed to be
the property of the State. The fishermen are all
licensed, and are obliged to bring their fish to the
depots, where they are packed in ice and sent to
market and sold, the men getting a proportion of
the sales. This system leads of course to a lot
of friction, and to much grumbling on the part of
the fishermen; but considering the nature of the
district I do not see how they could improve
upon it. If the men had to send their catch
to market for themselves, or through middle-

262 BIRD-HUNTING

men, I fancy they would fare still worse than
they do.

The whole of the Danube Delta is in the hands
of the Administration, and it would have been im-
possible for me to have made this expedition without
their sanction, for there are strict laws as to the pro-
tection of birds as well as to the catching of fish, and
their officials everywhere have much power. But the
fishing population are an unruly lot, and it is much
easier to make laws in Bucharest than it is to enforce
them in such a desolate region. There is much
contraband fishing, in and out of season, and whole-
sale and systematic breaking of the bird protection
orders is carried on everywhere.

The inspector’s boat was a fine, large, open craft,
fitted with two masts, each carrying a large sprit-
sail, and with a crew of three men—Russians. She
was a very fast sailer with a good wind, and was
built on beautiful lines ; and I spent ten most inter-
esting and sometimes exciting days on board of her.
But the inspector, a Roumanian ex-sergeant of the
army, was unable to speak any language but his
own, though for the first two days I had the
advantage of the company of the secretary of
the Administration, M. Panaitescu, who spoke
excellent French, as do all the educated classes in
Roumania.

The beginning of our journey we made under tow,

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 263

taking advantage of the passing down the Sulina
arm of a long string of iron corn-barges or lighters in
charge of a tug. When we reached a fishery depét
we parted company, and here I had a meal with
these men, tasting for the first time fish stew and
soup. The Danube fish are excellent; and, travel-
ling with the secretary and inspector of fisheries,
we had the pick of the fish in all the depéts we
passed, as well as from the /odkas and nets of the
fishermen. The Sterlet, resembling a small Sturgeon,
is without bones except a grisly backbone, and is of
excellent flavour, though to eat it in perfection it
should, I think, be cold, as prepared in the Budapest
restaurants. A Carp, cooked in the open by these
Russian sailors in a big iron pot slung on an oar
over a reed-fire, is food for a gourmand. The
Danube Salmon (Salmo hucho) and Fresh-water
Herrings are also splendid eating ; the latter espe-
cially are almost fatter and richer in flavour than
the Salt-water Herring.

These three men were willing and obliging—
at least two of them were, the other, a silent yellow
man with a Tartar-like cast of face, spoke hardly a
word, good or bad, to anybody. He must have
come from some far-remote corner of the great
Russian Empire, for neither of his compatriots could
understand his speech. All that was known of him
was that he had been one of the mutineers of the

264 BIRD-HUNTING

Russian war-ship the Potemkin, in the Black Sea,
2,000 of whom had taken refuge in Roumania, and
had settled down there.

At midday we left the Sulina arm and proceeded
to the north, along what had formerly been the
navigable channel before a short cut had been
made across a big bend. Up this channel the men
towed the boat against stream—our usual mode
of procedure when our course was against the
heavy Danube current, which runs with amazing
force. You hear about the blue Danube, but
never see it; the mud-charged waters of the
great river are a dark brown in colour, and must
carry into the Black Sea an astonishing amount of
sediment held in suspension. The navigable arms
forming the Delta—the Kilia, Sulina, and St.
George’s arms—are only kept to a navigable depth
by numerous powerful dredges incessantly at work,
clanking and groaning and snorting and puffing
enough to frighten all the water-fowl for miles.

Towards evening we arrived at a small fishing-
village, and put up at the superintendent’s house,
the men as usual sleeping in the boat. The
mosquitoes in this place were as thick as bees when
swarming. Around the houses the people were
burning dry reeds to windward, the pungent smoke
of which has some effect in lessening the plague,
and my first business was to unpack and rig up

FISH DEPOTS ON THE DANUBE

[To face page 264

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 265

my mosquito-net. This excited much admiration
for the fineness of its texture, the fabric in universal
use for the purpose being a thick, close sort of
cheese-cloth, which must be very suffocating in the
hot nights.

One of the fishermen here was engaged to take
me in his dodka (boat) the next day to a Swan’s
nest which he knew of. The Mute Swan (Cygnus
olor) is found here in a wild state, as well as the
Wild Goose (Anser cinereus); but both nest early
in the year, and by this time both species had
hatched their young. In fact, at the house we
were staying in they had a brood of young Wild
Geese nearly full grown.

This fisherman was a big, bearded, rough-looking
Russian, like nine-tenths of the fishermen in this
district, and as I was to spend the whole day alone
with him it was first necessary, before starting, to
give him full instructions to last all day, Accord-
ingly I explained to M. Panaitescu in French what
I wanted to do and what he was to do; he then
translated these instructions to one of our Russian
boatmen into Roumanian, who again translated into
Russian to the fisherman.

After these necessary preliminaries, off we started.
For hours we progressed through narrow channels,
at times crossing wide lakes covered with huge
water-lilies and strange water-ferns without sighting

266 BIRD-HUNTING

any human being. The only signs of life were the
water birds and the mosquitoes. Every few
yards a Purple or Grey Heron, so intent on
fishing in some secluded corner as to allow the
close approach of our boat, would start up and flap
off in a hurried and ungainly fashion. On the
matted water-lilies curious Night Herons stood,
with the air of pensive melancholy characteristic
to them, or Squacco Herons would hurry off at our
approach to settle farther on and resume feeding.

The moment the sharp, upturned prow of our
fodka pushed through the fringe of reeds which
concealed some more open pool, squattering flocks
of Coots and White-eyed Pochards (Fudzgula nyroca)
would hasten into the dense growth and be lost to
sight.

Presently, at the far side of a large lake we were
crossing, we saw a pair of Swans, and my guide
cautiously entered the reeds and made signs that we
were approaching the nest. The last hundred yards
we progressed with the utmost slowness and caution,
pulling ourselves forward with our hands; but the
nest when we reached it was empty, and had not
been occupied for at least twenty-four hours ; so
that my hopes of an automatic photograph of old or
young, by leaving the electric camera, were doomed
to disappointment.

For some time we hunted about for another nest,

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 267

but only succeeded in finding one that was sub-
merged under more than a foot of water by a recent
flood. The labour now expended in forcing the
fodka through the dense reeds which towered over
our heads was excessive ; sometimes all our efforts
could not move the boat an inch. The heat was
terrific; and shut in as we were by gigantic reeds
there seemed to be no air to breathe. We were
enveloped by dense clouds of hungry mosquitoes
and poisonous flies nearly as big as wasps, which
fetched blood at every bite, so that even the bare,
horny feet of the fisherman were streaked with blood.

Other insects, too, of a more interesting nature
were there in great numbers. I had been asked to
keep an eye open for specimens of the larva or pupa
of the moth Lela cenosa, which at one time was to
be found in our own Eastern counties, but which is
now extinct. Curiously enough, I had seen one
larva in Montenegro, but not knowing that it was of
any interest had not troubled about it. While strug-
gling in this desolate place I suddenly saw a similar
larva on a reed-leaf we had passed. Making signs
to the Russian to go back a little it was soon found,
and proved to be identical, and I then examined
the reeds with more care as we progressed. No
more larvz could be seen, but very many elongated
whitish cocoons were discovered on the stems of the
reeds. I had no evidence that these pupa cocoons

268 BIRD-HUNTING

were related in any way to the larve, but had strong
suspicions that they might be, and soon collected a
goodly number, only to find that the majority were
empty, the moths having emerged. That led me to
connect the cocoons with the numbers of small
whitish moths which were fluttering about the reeds
and settling on our clothes and about the boat.
Here was a scarce and valuable insect literally to be
seen in thousands, and I had nothing in which to
take the specimens or to keep them undamaged
until my return, not having provided myself with an
entomological collecting apparatus.

After emerging with the greatest difficulty from
this place we found a big colony of Common Terns
(Sterna fluviatilis) and the graceful Little Black Tern
(Hydrochelidon nigra) nesting on the floating masses
of roots of the water-lily in very deep water. These
roots, matted together into lumps of varying sizes,
formed floating islands on which the birds had laid
their eggs. Here, too, were many nests of the
Black-necked Grebe (Podiceps nigricollis).

The scene everywhere was of great interest,
and of remarkable beauty. The many floating
islands of gigantic reeds, with their undergrowth of
ferns of a vivid green, reflected in the deep water ;
the water-lilies,and other water-plants strange to
me, made up a strange but enchanting picture. But
I could not help wondering what chance I should

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THROUGH WILD EUROPE 269

have of ever escaping from this watery labyrinth if
anything were to happen to my boatman. Our boat,
which was nothing but a canoe sharp at both ends,
had turned and twisted in a dozen different direc-
tions, through channels each one of which exactly
resembled the other, and through reeds which closed
up and had completely hidden any trace of a passage.
There was no dry land, nothing but water of varying
depths, reeds, water-plants, and floating islands
which tip up when you put a foot on one, or sink
bodily under your weight. At rare intervals, groups
of willow-trees. stand up out of the sea of reeds. In
one of these we found the beautiful swinging nest
of a Penduline Tit, but it was not quite finished, the
spout being still wanting.

We spent a couple of days in this neighbourhood,
and I photographed a family of White Storks on a
hay-stack close to our lodgings. The orchards in
the village were much infested with the huge larve
of Saturnia major. Very curious and beautiful
objects they were. One man gave me a hatful of
them, and | found some myself on the apricot-trees.
They were full-grown, so that I put them into some
small cardboard cartridge-boxes, feeling sure that
they would spin up inside, which they did. It would
have been impossible for me to have looked after
them and fed them while on this boat expedition,
always on the move.

270 BIRD-HUNTING

From here we went back to Sulina, where I slept
one night in the hotel. It is a miserable place,
infested with hordes of bloodthirsty mosquitoes,
which must render miserable the lives of those un-
fortunates doomed to live there. During these hot
summer evenings everybody sits outside the cafés
and restaurants, listening to the tinkling strains of
the zithers and guitars of Jewish and Greek girls,
who sing Roumanian melodies, not forgetting to
come round with the hat, or with a big shell, at
frequent intervals. But I have seen the singers
fairly stopped sometimes by mosquitoes, and hand-
kerchiefs and fans are in constant motion in the
attempt to keep moving the poisonous throng of
winged tormentors. Fans are in regular use by
men as well as women here. The feeble light of
the oil-lamps in the streets is almost obscured by
the countless numbers of insects, in spite of the
stifling fumes of the bonfires of reeds kept burning
in the streets during these evening hours. Grumblers
who complain of the vicissitudes of the English
climate ought to be condemned to pass a summer in
Sulina, just to see how they like it.

Early in the morning we re-embarked in our
lodka, after laying in a stock of bread, chickens, and
other provisions; and, passing out of the entrance
of the Danube mouth, set our sails, and steered out
into the Black Sea. There was a fresh breeze, and

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 271

we bowled along at a good speed to the southwards,
making for the southernmost arm of the Danube
Delta—the St. George’s Arm.

M. Panaitescu had left us before reaching Sulina,
and had returned to Tulcea. As without him it was
impossible to communicate with any of my com-
panions, I picked up in the streets of Sulina, and
engaged, a Greek, who could speak fair English, well
enough at any rate to act as interpreter. I took
him entirely on trust, knowing nothing about him;
but he served me very well. I paid him, I think,
four shillings a day ; he ate and slept with the men,
and I paid his passage back to Sulina on our return
to Tulcea.

On reaching the St. George’s Arm about midday,
we landed and cooked one of the chickens we had
brought with us. These men were wonderfully
good cooks. The chickens, roasted over a fire of
reeds on a sharpened stick, one end of which was
stuck in the ground, were delicious. Of course,
living in this open-air life our appetites were good,
and I for one was always ready for our midday halt.

From this point we struck off to the southwards,
leaving the St. George’s Arm near its mouth, mak-
ing our way through narrow circuitous channels
through the Lake of Dranov, towards the large
Lake Razelm.

Looking at the map, the spaces between the arms

272 BIRD-HUNTING

of the Delta might be thought to be dry land. The
fact is, there is hardly an inch of dry land; all is
water, vast reed-beds, floating islands, and desola-
tion, inhabited by water-fowl, fish, otters, frogs, and
mosquitoes. All night the deafening croak of
millions and millions of frogs is unceasing. When
once the navigable channels are left one hardly
meets a human being. At long intervals, perhaps,
a solitary fisherman paddling his /odka may be seen
going the round of his nets. Drum-nets are largely
used, of great length, and whenever a long row of
sticks was sighted above the water, the contents of
the net would be investigated, and if there was any-
thing special, like a fine fat Carp, or a Sterlet, it was
abstracted for our pot. If by any chance the com-
missariat was empty, any passing fishing-canoe was
overhauled and the best fish taken for our use.
Payment was never made, and the men seemed to
take it as a matter of course, so I presumed that it
was all fair and square.

That certainly could not be said for all the doings
of our crew, who on occasions looted right and left,
snapping up any unconsidered trifles that were eat-
able. One evening we were passing a marsh not
far from a collection of huts, when they sighted a
flock of geese unattended. It was pouring with rain
at the time, and we had had a long and wet day’s
journey ; but in an instant two of the men fairly

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 273

flung themselves overboard, into waist-deep water,
chased the geese, like two great boys having a lark,
and caught three of them. The inspector made
them let one go, but the other two had their heads
cut off, and were plucked and in the pot in a very
few minutes. There was a trail of goose feathers
behind the boat for a mile at least.

Another time the men had been towing against a
strong current, and ] was having a nap on one side,
while the inspector followed suit on the other, where
we had made ourselves a comfortable lounge with
rugs and coats. Suddenly I missed the ripple of the
water against the bows, and there was a sudden
mysterious silence. I opened one eye lazily and
saw that the boat had stopped and one of the men
was in the act of cutting the throat of a sucking-pig
under water, so that it shouldn’t squeal, while another,
that had been already killed in like manner, lay
beside him. They had comeon a family of piglings
with the old sow. These two also went into their
omnivorous pot, and I don’t think the inspector
ever knew anything about it.

I told them I should expect an invitation to dinner
for holding my tongue, and suggested that they
might capture a cow, for the sake of fresh milk on
board. How quickly one becomes demoralized in
bad company!

Once or twice our progress in the narrower
18

274 BIRD-HUNTING

channels was stopped by a fish-trap barring the whole
width of the stream, necessitating a ‘ portage’ round
the obstruction. This was an arduous undertaking,
requiring all hands, as the boat was a large one.
These fish-traps are ingenious arrangements made
of reed-stems in intricate designs, so that the fish
can enter, but are unable to escape again. Generally
a man or two would be living there in a conical hut
of reeds—a most forlorn, miserable existence, de-
voured by mosquitoes and leeches. One poor old
fellow, over seventy years old in appearance, we
found alone in a most pestiferous spot, many miles
from anywhere. He was too feeble even to pretend
to assist us, and too apathetic to do more than look
up at us as we passed his lonely abode. The air
was perfectly thick with mosquitoes, which fell to
with greedy haste at the sight of fresh blood, and
while we were busy with the boat they punished us
most severely. They must have exhausted the veins
of the old fisherman long ago. I wouldn’t have
spent the night there without a mosquito-net for ten
pounds. For some reason the sight of the place, and
the old man laboriously catching fish, gave me the
horrors, such an impression it made on my mind of
unutterable loneliness and desolation.

As soon as we reached open water all sail was
set, and we simply tore through the water before
the strong wind. Razelm is perhaps ten miles

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FISH-TRAP ON THE DANUBE—OUR BOATMAN TRYING TO GET A FISH
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[To face page 274

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 27-5

across and thirty or more long, so that we had
plenty of room. About half-way over, a small boat
was seen under sail on the farther side, and as for
some reason the inspector fancied she was carrying
a cargo of contraband fish, we altered our course
to cut it off. Observing this she also altered her
course somewhat, and made for the shore. After an
exciting chase of seven or eight miles, during which
we gained on her fast, we watched her closely
through my glass to see if they were throwing any
cargo overboard, and on nearing her fired repeatedly
over her with revolvers until they took in the sail,
and lay to right in our track. Instead of shortening
sail or bearing away a trifle our steersman kept our
boat straight for her, crashing into her amidships with
terrific force, until her timbers cracked, and she
heeled over so much that I thought she was sinking.
There were no fish visible, only two Bulgars, looking
rather aggrieved, as well they might.

With no word of explanation, as soon as we could
get our boat free and under weigh again, we sheered
off and left them to make their way as best they
could, while we continued our voyage towards a
distant village. This we did not reach until long
after dark, and by the time we had landed and
entered a restaurant for some supper, I was quite
ready for bed. By a restaurant I do not mean the
comfortable room with marble-topped tables and

276 BIRD-HUNTING

velvet lounges we are used to at home. A restau-
rant in these regions is a rough wine-shop used by
fishermen. The tables and wooden stools are of the
plainest and roughest description, and the whole
place has a dirty and unkempt appearance. Inside
there are perhaps a dozen Russian fishermen drink-
ing vodka, or tea, singing and shouting and making
an inconceivable din. The wooden stools are some-
times used as missiles and weapons when the vodka
has been indulged in too freely.

As a rule I must say I found the Russian a
peaceable individual, except when exhilarated with
vodka; but I saw one who had been drinking all
day seize a Tartar by the throat and fling him on to
the floor merely for presuming to sit at the same
table. The waiter, quite a boy, came up as they
were struggling and felt the Tartar to make sure he
carried no knife, as if he was used to such incidents.

But on another occasion, while I was engaged in
blowing eggs under a tree, a drunken Russian who
approached, as he said, to talk English to the
Englishman, was seized and thrown into the Danube
by the inspector, who always seemed to consider
himself responsible for my safety. There he stood,
complaining in a whimpering tone like a whipped
baby. There would have been bloodshed in less
than no time if such a thing had happened in
Albania or Montenegro. Here, howéver, it is not.

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 277

customary to carry arms. The inspector, it is true,
carried a revolver, but he had to enforce orders on
an unruly body of men. On my next visit to these
parts I was told he had been savagely attacked by
a man, whose licence he had demanded for carrying
a gun, on one of the remote islets in the Balta, and
so beaten over the head with a gun-barrel that he
had been left for dead.

At one thing I was agreeably surprised. On
halting for the night we always managed to en-
gage a bed at the house of some fisherman. And
I must say that the sight of these rough, unkempt,
bearded fishermen drinking vodka in their grog-
shops was not calculated to lead to great expectation
for much comfort in their homes. But I always
found a very clean, comfortable bed, a clean room
tastefully decorated with home-made embroideries,
and as a rule no mosquitoes and no fleas—a dwelling-
place immensely superior to a Spanish choza or an
Albanian hut, both in comfort and cleanliness. In
one corner there was invariably a sacred picture in
a little niche, with a small oil-lamp perpetually
burning before it.

But these rooms were only engaged for the night,
our custom being to be away soon after daybreak ;
and when, as was the case here, we were delayed
by the weather, heavy rain and contrary wind, we
had no resting-place for the sole of our foot, except

278 BIRD-HUNTING

to wander from one restaurant to another through
the long and weary day. How sick I used to get
of them !

Immense numbers of sturgeon are caught here.
There was one huge building nearly full of them
packed in frozen snow. They were being dis-
patched to Tulcea in wagons. They are caught
by buoying large hooks on a chain, against which
the great fish come and scratch their backs and
rub themselves, with disastrous results. It seems a
curious method, but there is no doubt about its
success.

I used sometimes to wish I had brought a fishing-
rod and strong tackle. I believe that in this
lower Danube fine sport could be had. Some of
the fish run to immense size, five and six feet long.
Along the banks one constantly passes willow-
branches firmly stuck into the bank, generally at an
eddy at a jutting corner. From the end of this
rod dangles a hook, like a meat-hook in a butcher’s
shop,.at the end of a stout cord like a clothes-line.
The bait, I believe, is a small fish. Sometimes
from the Danube steamers I have seen these set
rods buckling and bending with the struggles of
some unseen monster in the depths below; but
though we passed hundreds on this boat expedition
I never saw anything caught. In fact, the hook
was always unbaited whenever I was able to stop

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 279

and haul up the line. I believe they take in this
way a huge big-headed fish like a Cat-fish, which I
have seen in the well-boats which bring live fish
up to Budapest.

This river, too, produces the biggest, fattest, and
juiciest-looking Mayflies I have ever seen. I wish
I could have brought some back to introduce into
our Trout streams. In spite of all our inquiries at
each stopping-place we never got any reliable in-
formation about the Pelicans. The fishermen we
questioned either professed ignorance or else con-
tradicted themselves and one another so hopelessly
that their evidence was never worth acting upon.
And though I was constantly on the look-out for
Pelicans, I never saw more than one passing glimpse
of some flying at a great distance off, so far away
in fact that even with a powerful glass I was unable
to say for certain that they were Pelicans. The
size of our boat made it necessary to keep to the
deeper channels, and we were obliged to leave all
the maze of reed-beds and shallow water which lay
between untouched. It was quite possible to have
passed a dozen colonies of Pelicans unseen and un-
noticed ; and I feel certain that the fishermen were
reluctant to give information to one in the official
position of an Inspector of Fisheries. The prob-
ability is that they didn’t want him to be making any
stay in their neighbourhood, there being a natural

280 BIRD-HUNTING

antagonism between them, and the sooner he took
his departure the better they would like it.

But if the search for Pelicans was a failure, we
saw great numbers of other birds. Sea Eagles were
constantly to be seen on the trees and stumps over-
hanging the water, while Marsh Harriers and Pallid
Harriers quartered marsh and reed-bed. In the
shallows fed multitudes of Night Herons (Vyctzcorax
griseus), Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus), Purple
Herons (Ardea purpurea), Grey Herons (A. cznerea),
and Squacco Herons (4. vallozdes). Bitterns boomed
in the impenetrable morasses, and Crested Grebes
(Podiceps cristatus), Red-necked Grebes (P. rubrt-
collis), and Black-necked Grebes (P. nigricollis) dived
among the water-lilies as their solitudes were dis-
turbed by the passage of our boat.

In the cliffs of earth which we sometimes passed
were great assemblages of Bee-eaters and Rollers,
their brilliant plumage shining in the sun as they
hovered in front of their nesting-holes, while Rollers
and Hoopoes flitted about through the willow-trees
which are such a characteristic feature of the banks
of the Danube. Amid the impenetrable and tangled
recesses of the reeds and sedges Savi’s Warblers
reeled their curious and monotonous song, invisible
save to the closest search; and the harsh and grating
song of countless numbers of Great Reed Warblers
resounded on every side. White Storks were

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(VYIIDIGIV SOLAVIIVH) WIOVa vas

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 281

nesting in most of the villages, as on the roofs of
the solitary fishing-huts in the most remote localities.

Huge dragon-flies of gorgeous colours darted
hither and thither through the dense clouds of
mosquitoes, doing their best to keep down the
numbers of these tormentors. On wellnigh every
reed-stem the empty pupa-skins of dragon-flies clung
like pale ghosts, most weird-looking and curious to
behold.

When at last we returned to Tulcea, after ten
days’ sojourn in the wilderness, it had to be acknow-
ledged that the search for Pelecanus onocrotatus, for
this season at least, must be accounted a failure.
And it was too late in the year, July, to expect to
do any good with the other species nesting in the
Dobrudscha. We had seen young Swans and Wild
Geese, and Herons. Young Night Herons in the
brown spotted plumage were flying about with their
parents, and it was obviously useless to remain any
longer.

XIV

COLLECTING IN THE DOBRUDSCHA—continued

Wuen I next visited the Dobrudscha in the middle
of May 1907, matters were not looking very
promising. A serious uprising of the peasants had
just been suppressed by troops and artillery. Many
villages had been entirely destroyed, and the un-
fortunate peasants had been shot down, comme les
mouches, as a lady described it to me in the train
on my way to Bucharest. To add to the distress,
the low-lying country all around the Danube mouth
was inundated from the melting snows, while at the
same time the fertile country too high to feel the
effect of floods was suffering from drought. A
somewhat unusual combination to have, too much
and too little water at the same time, but so it was.
No rain had fallen for some months, and it was
feared that the entire corn crop would be a failure
unless rain fell within a few days.

The fishermen also had risen in revolt, and the

administrator, for whose protection and assistance
282

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 283

I hoped, had been obliged to have a battalion of
soldiers to protect himself; but by this time this
difficulty also had been settled, and I was told that
everything was then quiet. I could see for myself
from the steamer the extent of the inundations
between Galatz and Tulcea, and could not help
having misgivings about the effect this would
be likely to have on the nesting of the birds.
These misgivings were justified. Herr Rettig
of Malcoci, whom I called on as soon as I arrived
at Tulcea, told me that the nesting-places of
many of the birds in the Balta were under water,
and that they were also disturbed by the fact
that the extra water had enabled the fishermen
to penetrate in their Jodkas into parts where, as a
rule, they were unable to go. It seems that the
wild animals had also suffered, hundreds of Wild
Cats being drowned, also many Wild Boars; while
others had been driven by the water to small islets,
and were so reduced by starvation that the fisher-
men knocked them on the head with oars for the
sake of their skins. Numbers of Wolves also had
been driven from their usual retreats into the forests,
where they were doing much damage, devouring
cattle and horses daily.

As Herr Rettig invited me to come and take up
my quarters in his house, I did so very gladly, for
he knows all the country and speaks the language;

284 BIRD-HUNTING

and it was much. more comfortable than putting up
at the miserable little hotel in Tulcea.

It was decided to make an expedition together to
the forest of Babadagh, distant some fifty kilometres ;
but as a first step permission had to be obtained
from the prefect before I could travel along the
high road.

This permission took us two days and two
journeys into Tulcea to obtain, for my passport,
which had been properly viséed in London, had not
been viséed by the British Consul in Galatz. I had
never heard of such a requirement before in any
other country. The prefect was away, and without
this tiresome formality no one in his absence had
power to do anything. However, on his arrival he
kindly gave me a temporary pass, while my passport
was posted to Galatz. This favour was probably
owing to Rettig’s representations; for though he
spoke in Roumanian, I could follow it enough to
understand that he was drawing on his imagination,
and endowing me with an important official position in
London at the British Museum! When taxed with
it afterwards he said it was quite right, that in
Roumania an official position is worshipped, while
without it one is nobody and can do nothing.

We were then free to start, and did so the next
morning early in a country wagon with two horses.
But at every village on the road where we halted

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 285

for refreshments, and to give the horses a rest, we
were interviewed by a prefect or a sub-prefect, and
had to show our passports, and answer innumerable
questions as to our business. Rettig was a very
useful companion in many ways, and he understood
these people thoroughly, being really very clever in
getting his own way with them.

One of these sub-prefects I shall never forget.
He was drinking with a priest, a pope of the Greek
Church, at a wine shop we had stopped at for some
food. Seeing that we were strangers, he came up
and introduced himself and demanded our passports
and business. After that he became friendly, and
though he was then half-drunk we had to call for
a fresh bottle of wine, and after that another, and
yet another, while he talked of his adventures in
foreign lands. He had been everywhere, all over
Europe, and spoke French, Italian, and Spanish
fluently, but was especially proud of his English.
For my benefit he poured out a torrent of the foulest
and filthiest talk I have ever heard anywhere, in
such extraordinary English that I could not help
laughing, but I told him he had evidently learnt
ina very bad school. This he took for a compli-
ment. Then he bragged of his skill as a sportsman,
and told us of the enormous Bears and Wild Boars
he had shot in places where to Rettig’s certain
knowledge they did not exist. Hearing I had a

286 BIRD-HUNTING

rifle with me, he begged to see it, and it was difficult
to keep from laughing to see him handle and point
it. He had evidently never handled one before. He
wanted to shoot at a swallow sitting on a telegraph
wire, in the middle of the village, and I have no
doubt that if I had provided him with a cartridge
he would have blazed away, and probably there
would have been a case of manslaughter. I thought
we were doomed to hear him ‘gas’ all night, but
at last we managed to escape. That sub-prefect
was a standing joke with us for the remainder of
my stay, and provided us with much amusement,
though at the time the man was an unmitigated
nuisance.

The roads we found fairly good, but terribly
uneven, and, the wagon being without springs, the
jolting was terrific. My teeth were nearly driven
through the top of my head sometimes, and I had
to hold my stomach together with one hand while
I clutched the side of the wagon with the other.

The dust was awful, quite four inches thick, and it
flew about in dense clouds.

After ten hours of this torture under a broiling
sun at last we arrived at our destination, the last
eight or nine miles being through the outskirts of
the forest, which gave us a relief from the dust and
the heat, though we could only progress sometimes
at a walk. An acquaintance of Rettig’s, with whom

98% a5ud 29vf0.7]

(V@1V VINOOID) HNOIS HLINM

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 287

we expected to put up, was away at his farm, and
as he had married a wife who knew us not we
could only leave our things until he returned, and
we had to wander about from one restaurant to
another until a very late hour. When at last he
did return we were given a good room with a
cushioned divan all round on which we slept
comfortably, as I had brought my rugs and
sleeping-bag.

All this Dobrudscha was Turkish before the
Treaty of Berlin, and many Turkish customs and
Turkish names still survive. These people had
their meals squatting on the floor round a low table
three or four inches high, just asin Albania. The
names of nearly all the villages are Turkish.
Babadagh, the name of the forest we had come
to work, is distinctly Turkish. The population is
exceedingly mixed. Some villages are entirely
inhabited by Bulgars, others are nearly all Italian
or German. The fishermen are generally all
Russians. In one village I found many Tartars
from the Crimea; and in the towns are Jews and
Greeks in great numbers, so that in a few genera-
tions there will be a fine blend here.

Though we slept here four nights, all our meals—
except when wé were in the forest, which was all
day—had to be taken in restaurants ; and a most
uncomfortable way of living it is. This was a big

288 BIRD-HUNTING

village and there was plenty of choice; but they
are all equally bare, rough, and comfortless. It
was extraordinary to see prefects and officials,
officers, priests, potmen, waiters, and barkeepers all
hobnobbing together on equal terms in these pot-
house places full of half-drunken fishermen all
singing and shouting at the top of their voices.

This forest is really a wooded range of rocky
hills, about 1,000 feet in height at one end; and
as there are one or two precipitous crags there
are a good many Griffon Vultures and Egyptian
Vultures nesting there, and Eagles of various sorts
are common. The Black Vultures also are fairly
numerous, but they nest in the large trees growing
on the higher parts.

Our first visit was to a colony of Griffons which
were nesting in a semi-circular wall of rock not far
from the village. But before we could reach the
top of this rock-face—for from below it was in-
accessible—there was a long tramp and a wind- and
muscle-testing climb up a steep, rock-strewn slope.
On the way we had seen a Black Kite (/z/vus ater)
and two or three Eagles; and as we neared the
colony many Griffons and a Black Vulture passed
overhead, and an Eagle Owl was seen on the other
side of a rocky valley. Two Egyptian Vultures
also flew along the face of a precipitous rock, some
ledges of which were liberally whitewashed as if

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 289

they might be nesting there, but it was too over-
hung to tackle. Besides, I felt very unsafe on these
rocks; I was wearing rawhide Montenegrin ofankis,
and after one or two bad slips I funked any place
that was at all dangerous. In Spanish afaragatas
I think I could have reached some of the ledges ;
but in these things I felt so insecure that I would
run no risks. From Rettig’s description I had
expected to find it easy to photograph the Vultures
on their nests, but it was not possible to get near
enough, and the birds were very shy—I believe
they are often shot at here—and a very long wait
would have been necessary with but poor hope of
success. It was of course too late to think about
eggs of such early breeders, so we left them in
peace, and proceeded first of all in search of water,
of which we were much in need, for the heat was
great. (While we were reconnoitring the position
of the griffonry I had laid my rifle down in the sun on
a rock, and on picking it up half an hour afterwards
it was so hot I could hardly bear to touch it.)
There were some delightful little streams running
through the valleys, and at one of these we rested
and ate our lunch lying on the soft turf, listening to
the babble of the water and watching the sun flicker-
ing through the leaves of the beech-tree overhead—
recubans sub tegmine fagi—until we all went fast

asleep.
19

290 BIRD-HUNTING

Then we had a hunt for a certain tree whereon
the Black Vulture had nested in former years ; but
after toiling up several hillsides, and forcing our
way through the undergrowth until we were tired
out, we found at last that the tree had fallen. We
were rather late for finding nests in this forest, for
the leaves were so thick and the trees so large that
it was very difficult to see even such a huge nest as
a Vulture’s. We ought to have been here at least a
month earlier, in April. It was now the 24th of May.

Some passing woodcutters on being questioned
told us of another nest at some distance, but again
we had great difficulty in finding it. At last after a
long search we saw an enormous nest on the summit
of a huge silver poplar, but so shut in with trees as
to be almost hidden.

While I was cutting down two small intervening
trees which grew higher up the hillside, so that I
could get a clear photograph, I saw the bird’s head
move in the nest, and, thinking there was a young
bird, called out to Rettig, who was lower down the
slope.

To my surprise a huge Vulture then flew off,
showing a tremendous expanse of wings, and though
our fool of a driver had fired at it as she had left
the nest, she returned again in a few minutes while
I was struggling to get the camera to bear on the
nest. Rettig, who had rushed up, was very excited,

CARRYING BACK THE BLACK VULTURE (VULTUR MONACHUS)
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THROUGH WILD EUROPE 291

and fairly pushed the rifle into my hands, saying,
‘Tirez—tirez.’ I tried to explain that it would be
very easy to photograph it first and to shoot it after-
wards ; but my French did not come very fluently,
and I was afraid that if I didn’t shoot he would,
so very reluctantly I took aim and pulled the
trigger. A tremendous crash followed as the great
bird collapsed and fell from the summit of the tree
through the branches to the ground. They all
patted me on the back and congratulated me on
the shot; but I felt very savage at not having been
able to get the photograph. For I remembered
Prince Rudolf’s account of how the Black Vultures
he had met with had come back to the nest after
having been repeatedly fired at, and I felt that a
great mistake had been made, and that in all
probability I should never have such another chance
again.”

To save carrying such a weight all the way back
we skinned her on the spot, for it proved to be a
female. (The length from beak to tail was forty-two
inches; iris hazel, cere blue, beak dark-brown, feet
bluish-white, claws black.) We found that it had
been shot before, for there were eight large pellets
of lead under the skin.

There was one egg, very handsomely freckled
all over with reddish-brown spots, which proved to

1 This foreboding proved to be too true.

292 BIRD-HUNTING

be addled. I have noticed before how frequently
one finds addled eggs of the larger raptorial
birds, and also how much the silver poplar is
favoured by them for nesting purposes.

This nest was of immense size, and had a
whitish look about it, also as described by Prince
Rudolf; but he must have drawn on his imagination
in his account of the terrible stench exhaled by the
bird he shot in Slavonia. There was no very offen-
sive smell either when we skinned this bird or
afterwards—for I slept several nights with the fresh
skin lying not far from my bed. Nor was skinning
the Griffon which I shot in Albania such a very
objectionable undertaking. In fact, neither of these
two Vultures smelt so much as a Pelican, and not
nearly so much as a Pygmy Cormorant. This last,
I believe, is called in Germany the Schtinker. At
any rate Rettig always called it that, and it certainly
justifies the name, for it is the foulest bird I ever
skinned.

I have often wondered how it is that such huge
birds as Griffon Vultures, which always live together
in great numbers in places where they are found at
all, can find enough carrion lying about to support
themselves. Here it was a common sight every day
to see the Griffons sailing along in great numbers
searching for dead bodies, and as two or three
Griffons can put away a dead sheep in a short time,

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 293

the amount of meat necessary to keep alive such
hordes of flesh-eating birds must be very consider-
able. But here the supply of dead animals was
more than sufficient to keep them; in one day we
passed five dead horses, sheep, and cows, and another
living skeleton in the shape of a horse feebly tottered
about hardly able to stand upright.

Many of these no doubt had perished on account
of the drought. There was hardly any grass, and
the country was overstocked with cattle from the
lower parts, all seeking food where there was not
sufficient for the ordinary numbers. Again, during
wet weather hundreds of cattle get bogged and
perish miserably, and in the cold weather they die
of exposure and starvation, so that all the year
round the Vultures are provided for. If there is a
little temporary scarcity in the supply they can go
without much inconvenience many days without
eating at all, and their power of flight enables them
to travel hundreds of miles, if need be, into another
country in their daily search for food.

The following day we went to a distant part of
the forest after a nest of Imperial Eagle, or what
had been occupied by a pair of Imperial Eagles
last year. Now we found it had been taken
possession of by a pair of Saker Falcons (Falco
sacer), which had four young in down.

It was one of the finest things I have seen in the

294 BIRD-HUNTING

bird world to watch the old bird—the female—dash-
ing round the tree as our man was climbing to the
nest, and making frantic stoops at his head, uttering
all the time fierce cries of rage. He told us that she
never actually touched him, but it certainly appeared
as if she was doing so from where we stood. Rettig
and our driver, Andreas, shot at her several times,
but luckily without effect, as she flew at such light-
ning speed that it was very difficult to see more than
amomentary glimpse as she passed the surrounding
tree-tops. I should have been very sorry if this
brave bird had been killed.

Returning this day in single file along a stony
path, three of us walked over a Viper coiled up
behind a stone. As Rettig passed just behind me,
the last man saw it strike at his foot, and called us
back. If he had been a bare-footed native he
would have been in all probability bitten. He told
me that he had known several fatal cases of bites
from this small Viper, which has two small curved
horns in its nose. I picked it up alive by the tail,
too quickly for it to strike, and held it up to show
them how it was powerless to turn round to bite in
that position ; but they were much alarmed, and very
unwilling for me to approach it until I assured them
that I could do it all right. It had been coiled up
behind a flat stone in the middle of the path, where
it was almost invisible.

IMPERIAL EAGLE RETURNING TO NEST

(To face page 295

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 295

Our third and last day we spent in the endeavour
to reach a distant nesting-place of the great Eagle
Owl (Bubo maximus). However, we never got
there, for after we had gone quite fifteen kilometres
I was told that it was still twenty more, and as it
was then 3 p.m. we decided to give up the quest.

We had delayed too long at a nest of Imperial
Eagle (Aguzla imperialis), which we had found on
the way. It being in a favourable position, an
attempt was made to photograph the bird, which had
left the nest as we approached. Hiding up among
some bushes on the hillside almost level with the nest,
which was in a silver poplar in a valley, we waited
some time in vain. Then I sent away two of the
men, Andreas and Dimitru, as there were five of us,
too many by far. Still another wait, and no sign of
the Eagle. I was just saying to Rettig, ‘2//e ne vient
pas, and was preparing to get up, when a low hiss
from him made me look up, and I saw that she had
alighted on the nest, unfortunately behind a branch
which hid nearly all her body. She gave me a
better chance a few moments later, after which she
left. But she soon returned. Neither time was
she in a good position, but I had to take it or
nothing.

Then Rettig handed me the rifle, and I fired
after taking a steady aim. She seemed to fall, but
recovered and went off apparently all right, and

296 BIRD-HUNTING

though I thought she had fallen ‘round the corner of
the hill, both of my companions declared she had
flown right away. I couldn’t make it out, for I
knew the aim had been right, and that I had been
perfectly steady ; and I felt that it was impossible I
had missed her. There was a chance that the bullet
had struck the branch which stuck up in front of
her, but I could see no mark on examining it with
my glass. There were two much-incubated eggs in
this nest.

Late that night we heard that a boy had found
this Eagle still alive, and had killed her with a stick
and left her. I was very disgusted, and would far
sooner have missed her altogether than have killed
her for nothing like this, for we were leaving early
the next morning, and the distance was too far to
send and fetch her in.

All this high ground was full of people with their
flocks and herds, who had been flooded out of the
Balta, the low, swampy country surrounding and
between the various arms and channels of the Balta,
by the inundations. The valley in which we had
found the Imperial Eagle was traversed in every
direction by herdsmen. Flocks of sheep were
grazing on the bare hillsides, where hardly a blade
of grass was visible ; and their owners were camping
out in rude conical shelters of reeds until the fall of
the water should allow them to return from whence

A MEAL OF POLENTA

[To face page 297

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 297

they came. At one of these shepherds’ huts we
were compelled to go begging for a meal, for when
I had sent Andreas away he had thoughtfully taken
all the ‘grub’ with him, and now couldn't be found.
We found them milking their flock, and had to wait
until they had finished.

I had never before known the use of a sheep's
tail, now I realized that if useless to the animal it
forms a very useful handle for the shepherd. Two
men sat at the entrance of a fold enclosing some
fifty sheep, and as each animal came forward it was
seized by the tail, pulled backwards over the pail
and milked dry in less than half a minute, and then
pushed forward to make room for another. As
soon as they had finished they conducted us into the
hut while they set about making some fo/enta over
a fire made in a hole in the ground. Maize meal
was cooked like porridge, mixed with water and a
pinch of salt, in a round iron pot. This rises like
bread and is turned out solid, and cut into slices with
a fine string. You can’t cut it with a knife. It
looks like sponge-cake, and eaten with fresh sheeps’
milk isn’t half bad; but I shouldn't like to live
entirely on it all the year round as these shepherds
do. It is very satisfying, and we went on the
strength of it until the evening. In fact, Rettig
couldn’t eat any supper that night, so it lasted
him till next day.

298 BIRD-HUNTING

By this time we had decided to give up the nest-
ing-place of Budo maximus, as the distance was too
great, and turned off to search a neighbouring hill,
an outlying spur of the forest. Here we found a
nest in a small oak, from which flew a Spotted
Eagle (Aguila clanga). 1 waited some time for a
photograph, hoping it would return ; but as we had
been obliged to cut part of a branch away which
obstructed the view of the nest, she took alarm and
refused to go back to it, though she sat on the
tree-top for some time, but in a position impossible
to get at with the camera. There was one large
white egg in the nest.

The situation was a charming one. Immediately
below the nest a small stream fell from one mossy
boulder to another on its course down the valley,
and its murmur mingled with the rustling of the
leaves and the songs of many birds; while from the
valley immediately below rose the cries of the herds-
men and the clanging of the cattle-bells as they
wandered hither and thither feeding among the
bushes.

The next day we returned to Malcoci, and were
not sorry to take it easy for a day or two after our
exertions, visiting some of the colonies of Bee-
eaters not very far from the village, for eggs and
photographs.

There are many clefts or cracks in the soft, loamy

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 299

soil, sometimes several yards in length and ten or
twelve feet deep. In the sides of these nest num-
bers of Bee-eaters (Merops apiaster), Rollers (Co-
vacias garrula), Hoopoes (Upupa epops), and Tree
Sparrows (Passer montanus), and an occasional Kes-
trel, or Little Owl; while if water is near, as is often
the case, then Kingfishers also may be found using
the burrows.

Just now there are numbers of Rose-coloured
Pastors passing through this district, and I was able
to obtain several with a walking-stick gun—some of
the cocks in extremely fine plumage, with long, glossy
crests, and bodies of a brilliant pink. When, as
sometimes happens, thirty or forty of these beautiful
birds settle in a small tree they look exactly like
brilliant pink blossoms at a little distance. On my
return journey through Budapest I heard that these
birds were nesting in Hungary. They have the
curious custom of not nesting regularly in any par-
ticular country, but sometimes in one district, where
for years they are never seen, and sometimes else-
where. They follow the locusts, on which they
largely feed, and their movements depend upon the
wandering flocks of those insects.

The Lesser Grey Shrike (Lanzus mznor) is exceed-
ingly abundant in this upper steppe-like country ;
in the lower parts you never see it. In the front of
Rettig’s house were three acacia-trees; in two of

300 BIRD-HUNTING

these were nests of this Shrike, and there was
another one at the back. The birds may be seen
in every direction, sitting on the telegraph wires,
as do the Bee-eaters and Rollers, and on the
small oak-trees and acacias. We found numbers
of their nests; they are generally at a height of
at least fifteen or twenty feet. The outside of
these nests is made of twigs of a whitish colour,
exactly like the nests of the Woodchat Shrike in
Spain, and there is almost always some of the
strongly-smelling aromatic vermouth worked into
the nest. This plant grows abundantly, and covers
the ground like a weed wherever it is left unculti-
vated. Five clutches were common, and we found
several of six and seven.

On the ground among the vermouth we found
several nests of Emberiza hortulana, the Ortolan
Bunting, and no doubt the Calandra Lark also
nested there. We saw many of these large larks,
but did not happen to find a nest.

On the 2tst of May we took two eggs of the
Great Bustard (O¢ts tarda); and on the same day a
young Golden Oriole in greenish-yellow plumage
was shot. I took it for a female, but on dissection
it proved to be a male; it must therefore have been
a bird of the previous year. I should have expected
this bird to have acquired its full adult plumage
sooner.

NEST OF ORTOLAN BUNTING (EMBERIZA HORTULANA)
[To face page 300

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 301

On the 22nd of May a male Barred Warbler
(Sylvia ndsoria) was brought in by a boy. It was
barred like a little Sparrow-hawk. A few days
later, I see, on reference to my note-book, that
we took a clutch of seven Bee-eaters’ eggs, and
also seven Hoopoes. Of Rollers the largest
clutch was four.

On the 3oth of May Rettig shot a Pygmy Cor-
morant, alias Schtenker. At the report a Purple
Heron and a Marsh Harrier both got up. From
the Harriers manner of rising I suspected a nest,
and on going to the spot found one containing four
nearly fresh eggs. On the same day I shot a
Savi's Warbler (Locustella luscinioides) with the
walking-stick at very close quarters. Three of us
—Rettig, a fisherman, and myself—were peering
into the recesses of a floating reed-island while
the bird was reeling away within two yards of
our noses, and we couldn’t see it. At last I caught
a glimpse and fired; but though we all saw it fall
it was not to be found, nor could we discover a
nest, though in all probability there was one quite
close to us. I also shot four Great Reed Warblers
(Acrocephalus turdordes), but only succeeded in
finding one. This bird is very dead-reed-like in
colour everywhere; the only bright part about it
is the palate, which is brilliant orange.

Two clutches of Black Terns’ eggs were also

302 BIRD-HUNTING

taken, one clutch containing a pale-blue egg. |
have seen similar eggs in the nests of Common
Tern, but I have never seen such a variation
among all the hundreds of Black Terns’ eggs I
have met with in different countries. We shot a
pair of Gadnall for the pot. These ducks are most
excellent eating. We had been having short com-
mons lately, and one reason for our coming out was
to shoot something to eat. I hadn’t tasted meat
for days. Rettig told me that he was sometimes
driven to eat Cuckoos and Hoopoes, which are
considered here good food. I also knocked over
a White-eyed Pochard and a Mallard, but the former
was only winged, and dived and was no more seen.
I ought to have fired again when it first fell, for
unless they are killed outright they nearly always
escape by diving.

When we had come to our last cartridge, loaded
with special big shot for Eagles or Swans, a pair
of Red-crested Pochards (Fuligula rufina) were
approached, but though the large shot tore up
the water all round them they both flew up
untouched.

One reason, as I have said, for our day’s outing
was to shoot for the pot; the other reason was
that this day was a special saints’ day in this village,
and all Tulcea would drive over, and the village
would be ez féte. Last year sixty people called to

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 303

see Rettig’s collection of birds, and entertaining
them hospitably cost him two sheep, and wine in
proportion. This sort of thing does not suit him
nor me; so we fled into the Balta, while his wife
went off to the town to see some friends, leaving
the house shut up and empty. When we returned
after sunset we saw the last of the carriages and
wagons starting back and congratulated ourselves
on our escape.

We had also expected to collect some larvz of
the moth Lea cenosa, of which I had seen such
numbers in the previous year; and in this we were
not disappointed. We found about a hundred of
them on reeds, and brought them back bottled up
in hollow reed-stems. They were still small, and are
fond of hanging on the extreme tip of a pendant
reed-leaf when at rest. Some were very pale,
almost whitish in colour; others bright yellow.
These are possibly male and female. Later, as
they grew larger, they became more brilliant in
colour, and were really very beautiful objects.

By this time my room had acquired the typical
characteristics of the abode of a naturalist. Every
available space was littered up with boxes of eggs,
and eggs waiting to be blown, birds waiting to be
skinned, and trays of skins drying on the bed,
There was a live Purple Heron tethered to the
leg of the table, a skin of a Black Vulture on

304. BIRD-HUNTING

the floor, cameras, tripods, guns, rifle, bandoliers
of cartridges, tins of arsenic, boxes of caterpillars,
et hoc genus omne; while a Great Bustard and a
Bittern looked down from the walls, and a wolf-skin
served as a carpet in front of the bed.

On the 5th of June we started on an exploring
expedition after Pelecanus onocrotalus, this time
saying nothing about it to the authorities. Rettig
was not in good odour with the officials, as there
existed some jealousy between him and the
naturalist at the museum, and the Government
had treated him very badly over the exhibition,
for which they had commissioned him to supply
a collection of birds and beasts. Not only did
he receive no payment, but he was unable to
obtain the specimens at its close; and in one way
or another there was a good deal of friction. I
had found out, too, that since I had associated
myself with him the fishery administration officials
were not so cordial, and though they promised their
assistance nothing seemed to be forthcoming from
them. So we quietly went off one day provided
with my written permission from last year which
they had promised to renew but had not.

First of all we hired Andreas again, and his
wagon, and drove through Mahmoudie, where |
was last year, to a village named Merigol (both
Turkish names). From this place we engaged a

NEST OF PIGMY CORMORANT (PHALACROCORAX PYGMEUS)
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THROUGH WILD EUROPE 305

couple of fishermen and two small Jodkas. These
were mere canoes; in each there was barely room
for two persons, without any luggage. But cameras
had to be taken, also sleeping-rugs, food, cooking
pots, materials and tools for preserving skins, and
guns. These required careful stowing to get in
at all, and everything else was left behind. No
brushes or combs, no knives and forks or plates,
only a big spoon each, two mugs, ten huge loaves,
an iron pot, and onions, olives, sugar, salt, and tea.

With these scanty stores we pushed off into the
watery wilderness, known as the Balta, for a week,
during which time we never entered a roof or a
bed, but slept on the ground wherever we happened
to be—or rather, where we could find any ground
solid enough to sleep on, which was not always an
easy matter—and depended upon our guns and the
fish we could get from the nets we passed on
our way.

All my other expeditions have been luxurious in
comparison with this one, but I must say it was
from start to finish most enjoyable. I became quite
an adept at eating with my fingers, without plate, or
knife, or fork, such difficult foods as boiled fish, and
could enjoy my food under the very roughest con-
ditions. Some days we shot ducks, or took Coots’
eggs, and of fish we had the best—Carp, Danube

Salmon, Fresh-water Herrings, and so on. It seems
20

306 BIRD-HUNTING

to be the custom to help yourself from a set net,
but only enough for the present needs. Naturally
enough, however, when overhauling a drum-net for
our dinner-pot we did not leave the best fish behind
us. Our drink was Danube water scooped up in the
boat’s baler, or sucked up through a reed, and tea
made by boiling a handful of tea in the same iron
pot which had just cooked the fish. This was just
rinsed out, leaving the tea rather fishy from the
globules of fish-oil floating on the top. Our cook-
ing was done with reeds. This is the only fuel
used throughout the Dobrudscha. They give out
a great heat, but burn quickly. One of the paddles
being stuck into the ground at an angle, the big pot
was suspended from the upper end, and a double
handful of dry reeds lighted under it. This is
pushed forwards as it burns away, and replaced
with others when finished. Without reeds the
people here could hardly exist, they are useful
for such a variety of purposes. Like the fish, they
are a Government monopoly, and every household
pays a tax of about 115. a year for the privilege of
cutting or buying as many reeds as they like. Each
house has its reed-stack outside in some convenient
place, big enough to supply its needs for the
winter.

The cold here during the winter months is ex-
cessive. The ice forms on the Danube to the

)

N (TOP
BELOW)

(

NEST OF NIGHT HERO

ERON

EST OF SQUACCO H

N

(To face page 307

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 307

depth of six feet, and the snow is also many feet
deep.

The houses are all thatched with reeds, the fences
and fish-traps being also always made of the same
material. The cows and horses are fed on the green
leaves, while the young and tender shoots are boiled
for human food. They are even trying, so I heard,
to make paper from reeds. If they can succeed in this
—and it seems to me quite feasible—the manufacture
should be a profitable one.

We had not, gone very far on our first day’s
journey when Rettig, who was in advance with
Ivan, fell in with a flock of Caspian Terns (Sterna
caspia), and got four of them. Later in the after-
noon we found a big colony of Squacco Herons
(Ardea rallordzs), Night Herons (Mycticorax gri-
seus), and Pygmy Cormorants (Phalacrocorax pyg-
meus), in a thicket of half-submerged sallows. The
slender bushes were crowded with nests, and the
stench was, as usual, terrific. As our boats were
forced through the thickly-matted bushes the terri-
fied birds flew around in the greatest confusion and
alarm.

The water was very deep, in most places from
six to eight feet, but in one spot at the outside of
the colony I found it was just possible to stand
with the camera. I had provided extra legs to
screw on the tripod for the deep water generally

308 BIRD-HUNTING

found in this district, furnished with a broad flange
to prevent sinking in the soft mud; and after I had
donned a new pair of waders nearly up to my chin,
I lowered myself from the stern of my canoe.
Getting in and out of a boat in waders is a ticklish
operation, and in these small canoes I had to be
particularly careful, especially in getting back again,
for the slightest disturbance of the equilibrium would
have resulted in a capsize.

Even with the extra length on the tripod it was
only barely possible to work here, and to add to
my difficulties there was a raging wind blowing.
There generally is, I notice, when with great diffi-
culty I have been able to reach a good position for
a series of photographs of interesting or rare birds.

However, when | had sent the two boats away to
a short distance I waited for some time, with but
small hopes of success. After wheeling about in
confusion the birds at last began to return to their
nests, and | could see them settling in all directions
except just in front of me; and when they did
approach it was impossible to obtain a clear view
for the waving bushes and high reeds. The only
chance I had was at a Squacco Heron which
perched for some time on a tall sallow not far away,
but even then the difficulty in getting the camera
to bear on it in such deep water was considerable,
and the result was not very encouraging.

SQUACCO HERON (ARDEA RALLOIDES)

HOBBY (FALCO SUB-BUTEO)

[To face page 308

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 309

Then I called up the boats, and we proceeded to
take some eggs. The nests of Pygmy Cormorants all
contained young birds except one, which held a clutch
of much-addled eggs. They were white and chalky,
and very elongated in shape. The young birds were
the most hideous little wretches I have ever seen,
quite naked, with curious pink pouches on each side
of their beaks. The Squaccos’ and Night Herons’
eggs were much incubated, and a number of the
nests contained young birds. I had in a short time
a pile of eggs in the fore-peak of my boat, which
took me days to blow, so that it was not very sur-
prising that a good many were broken, especially
as some of them held quite well-formed and feathered
young.

Near this colony we saw six Pelicans flying over-
head. These were probably Pedecanus onocrotalus,
and were the only Pelicans seen on the trip. The
two Russian fishermen we had engaged had held
out very small hopes of our finding a colony of
these birds on account of the great depth of water
everywhere, which had submerged their usual
haunts.

At the approach of evening we had to think of a
suitable place for sleeping, and finally settled on a
small island on which grew several willows. The
canoes were drawn up on the bank, and a fire of
wood lighted on which our pot was soon in full

310 BIRD-HUNTING

swing. We had a fine carp for supper, and after
tea and cigarettes made ourselves comfortable for
the night. I had my india-rubber ground-sheet and
a sleeping-bag, in which, with my heavy Burberry
coat over all, I slept like atop. I could spare a rug
for Rettig, who was not so well provided. In fact,
with this outfit I was so warm and comfortable that
I could half undress and sleep through heavy rain
without shipping a drop inside. In the morning the
shallow water which surrounded us was alive with
Night Herons and Squacco Herons, Glossy Ibises
and other long-legged water fowl. I could have
spent the whole day here with great advantage, as
there was decent cover for hiding up, and I should,
no doubt, have been richly repaid in photographs,
as it was evidently a favourite resort. I have
regretted ever since that I didn’t stop longer; but
when one is on a quest for special objects it doesn’t
do to tarry anywhere or to be led aside for anything
else, however tempting. Until the Pelicans were
found I felt bound to keep moving on the search,
and accordingly we proceeded on our way with
reluctance. While the breakfast was cooking a
string of seven Mute Swans flew over.

Heavy rain drove us to take refuge towards mid-
day in an empty hut made of reeds. Nothing but
such bad weather, for it was a regular downpour,
would have induced me to enter this noisome abode;

SCENERY NEAR THE IRON GATES

SUNSET IN THE BALTA

{To face page 310

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 311

for it was full of mosquitoes, which clung to the
rotting walls in thousands and buzzed hungrily
round us as we entered. The ground was so sodden
that when we sat the water oozed up and made a
pool, and there was, to complete our discomfort, an
overwhelming stench of damp and rotten reeds and
general filth. However, here we were kept prisoners
for a couple of hours; and after eating some cold
food we had, we slept an uneasy siesta as well as we
could for the mosquitoes. This was the only roof
we had over us for the whole of this trip.

We reached this day the mouth of the St. George’s
arm into the Black Sea, and turned south to explore
the maze of marshes which surround the small lake
of Dranov, which I passed through last year. This
district was where Ivan thought we might, if any-
where, find the nesting-place of oxocrotalus, but we
saw no signs of them. There was very little dry
ground anywhere, and we searched for some time
before we could find a sleeping-place. Passing the
night in our small Zodzas would have been extremely
cramped and uncomfortable. It would have been
quite impossible to lie down, and, besides, we couldn’t
cook anything. At last we discovered a small grass-
grown islet, indistinguishable from the surrounding
water, Onall sides, as far as the horizon, nothing was
to be seen but a flat green expanse of water-grass and
rushes; we might have been on the boundless prairie,

312 BIRD-HUNTING

but there was in reality hardly an inch of dry land
for miles. In the far distance, about twenty miles
away, twinkled a lighthouse in the Black Sea, the
sole reminder of human presence. Bitterns boomed
on all sides, and the chorus of frog music all night
was unceasing.

How to procure fuel was the first difficulty ;
and while Rettig and I hunted about for a dry
spot, Ivan and Zincon went off in the Jodkas
in search of dry reeds, in which they were fortu-
nately successful, or we should have gone supper-
less to bed save for dry bread and olives. Our
island was not over and above dry; water oozed up
wherever we sat or lay down; and in the night |
had a dim sort of idea that it was raining hard, but
was too sleepy to trouble my head about it. But
mingled with the deafening croaks of the frogs was
the dreaded hum of countless mosquitoes, and I
slept with my head in a green gauze mosquito-veil
over my cap. However, this, though it kept out
the mosquitoes, must have got disarranged towards
morning, for on waking I found inside it, and sitting
comfortably in the middle of my forehead, a big
frog! Another croaker I found, on rising, squashed
perfectly flat underneath me. This camp we called
in consequence Hotel des Grenouilles.

We frequently saw Sea Eagles sitting among the
reeds on the banks or perching on the trees, mostly

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 333

willow, which grow along the Danube; but the com-
monest raptorial bird everywhere is undoubtedly the
Marsh Harrier, which simply swarms. The Bittern
also must be very abundant, judging from the boom-
ing, but we never saw one. In our devious wander-
ings in and out of these endless reeds and sedges it
is a wonder we never came on a nest; but though |
always kept a ‘sharp look-out, we never found
one. Grebes abounded, the Great Crested, Red-
necked and Black-necked Grebes appearing more
common than the Little Grebe. They are much
sought after by the fishermen, who kill them whole-
sale in spite of the protection nominally accorded
them, with very little risk of discovery in these
solitudes, where it is possible to travel all day
without seeing a human being. One day we passed
a Grebe-hunter, who told our men that he had
thirty odd Grebe skins on board. The skin of the
breast is roughly stripped off and stretched on a
reed framework. It is then rubbed with salt and
dried in the sun. The restaurant keepers in the
towns and fishing-villages are all Jews, who buy up
all the Grebe skins and Herons’ plumes they can
get for the plume trade, and also skins of otter, fox,
wolf, and martin. We shot the same day a pair
of Red-necked Grebes, the male being spoilt for
museum purposes, but I made a fine skin of the
female.

314 BIRD-HUNTING

‘Towards evening, as we approached a sparsely
inhabited region, we made for a house we could see
afar off in hopes of a night’s lodging, but found it
almost deserted, and half under water. One solitary
being sat in a boat moored to the front of the
house, but after an inspection we decided to move
on to his nearest neighbour an hour away, leaving
him sitting disconsolately half-way up a ladder lead-
ing to the roof, as though he contemplated roosting
in the Stork’s nest there placed. It was, no doubt,
the only dry spot in the whole establishment.

We found the other house on the shores of the
Black Sea, on a narrow strip of sand which divided
the salt water from the fresh. Here we met large
flocks of cattle and a lot of men, Bulgars, who were
employed by the Government, destroying locusts.
But Bulgars are notoriously the most inhospitable
people in Europe; and though a heavy thunder-
storm was brewing, they never asked us into the
house, which was a fairly big one for these parts,
and barely condescended to take any notice of us at
all. All we could get was permission to sleep on
the strip of sand between the cowshed and the
water. If we hadn’t had a fine carp with us we
might have gone supperless to bed, but we had a
good supper, and in return for their churlish behaviour
we pulled down a part of their dilapidated cowshed
with which to make our fire. As soon as it was dark,

SERVIAN VILLAGE ON DANUBE

BULGARIAN VILLAGE

[To face page 314

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 315

Rettig and I climbed up on the roof in order to loot
the Storks’ eggs, for there were several nests. Un-
fortunately, they all held young birds, which were
no good to us. If they had only been eatable we
would have taken ‘them fast enough. There would,
I expect, have been a fine shindy if we had been
seen up there, as the. Storks are much venerated
here, and it is difficult to get eggs for that reason.
On the lake of Raselm, which we passed again,
we found a large colony of Herring Gulls, which
seemed to have yellower legs and feet than our
Larus argentatus, a dirty, yellowish white, but not
yellow enough for Larus cachinnans, the usual
Mediterranean form. There were a lot of well-
grown young birds, but I managed to find a few
clutches of eggs, though no more than two in a clutch.
Rettig near here shot a pair of Great White Herons
(Ardea alba), the male of which had beautiful long
plumes—over forty, I think, writing from memory.
We had seen a few before, and near Galatz they
seemed not so uncommon, but we did not turn up
any nests in this country. The female, unfortu-
nately, was spoilt by being too badly shot. We
might have saved the skin, perhaps, if we had been
quietly at home; but working as one goes, in a
small boat, with no room to move and nowhere to
put anything, is not conducive to good results in
difficult cases. I must say, however, that the rest

316 BIRD-HUNTING

of our skins turned out very well, and were in fine
condition after a little work on them on our return,
Rettig being a first-rate taxidermist.

The last day we shot three Mediterranean Black-
headed Gulls—lovely birds they were, even more
striking than our brown hooded Larus ridibundus,
which is also common here. They had jet-black
heads, with a scarlet eyelid, and a white patch above
and below the eyes, with red beak and feet; we also
got a Little Gull, unfortunately damaged too much
to skin.

But this expedition, enjoyable enough though it
was, was quite unsuccessful in its primary object, the
finding of a nesting colony of Pelecanus onocrotalus.
And considering that last year’s search also failed, |
came to the conclusion that they probably nested in
some other part of the Dobrudscha higher up the
river. In this I was right, for eventually, months
after my return, Rettig, on a winter hunting expedi-
tion, fell in with an old nesting-ground of these
birds, almost by accident, and succeeded in shooting
two birds of the same year. He described the bushes
for a distance of 13 kilometres as destroyed by the
dung of the thousands of Pelicans and other birds
which had nested there—

¥
‘Tausende und Tausende von Pelicanen mussen
hier gewesen sein; Cormorane und Phalacr. pygm.

SPALAX TYPHLUS

(To face page 317

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 317

sind hier in solchen unmassen, dass die Weiden-
baume, ihre stand und Schlatplatze auf eine.
Entfernung von 1} kilometer infolge der Ablagerung
der excremente abgestorben sind.’

It fairly made my mouth water when I read this
letter, to think that we had missed such a gathering
of birds. Though they will probably nest in the
same place this year, I shall not be there to see, and
to photograph. But Rettig will, and I expect to
have a glowing account of his doings there before
long.

While at Malcoci I had an opportunity of photo-
graphing a dead specimen of that curious animal,
Spalax typhlus, which was brought in to Rettig by a
boy. This rodent has no visible eyes, at least I
could find none on examining it (but I didn’t dissect
it), and is supposed to be blind. It never comes to
‘the surface, but burrows among the roots of plants,
especially potatoes, on which it feeds. The photo-
graphs show the extraordinary development of the
gnawing teeth.

We had a day or two’s rest after our exertions in
the Balta, then I packed up my belongings and started
-homewards. The heavy luggage was sent round
by sea, including a huge case of bird-skins. A box
of eggs I took with me. Besides these, cases of
eggs and skins had been previously forwarded from

318 BIRD-HUNTING

Durazzo and Budapest. (For a list of species met
with, and specimens of eggs and skins procured, see
Appendix.)

The homeward journey was made by steamer up
the Danube as far as Vienna, a voyage of about
a week, I was anxious to see something more of
this great river, and more especially to have an
opportunity of seeing Servia and Bulgaria. Besides,
I had a lively remembrance of the discomfort of the
long railway journey I had last year from Galatz to
London in July—four days and nights in a stuffy
second-class carriage, so crowded that I was not
able to stretch my legs the whole way, day or night.
Compared with this uncomfortable state of things,
travelling by steamer was luxurious, if slow.

I should have liked to land at some of the pictur-
esque little riverside villages in Servia and Bulgaria,
especially the former, but time did not permit, and
all I could do was to attempt snapshots as the
steamer slowed up when about to stop. Objects
of interest were not wanting as we forged ahead
against the strong current; sometimes a Sea Eagle
could be seen watching for his prey on a dead
stump, or a willow-tree overhanging the water; some-
times a group of Herons and Ibises were passed ;
historic castles and the scenes of ancient battles
mingled with more peaceful sights such as the
curious boat-mills floating in the quieter backwaters,

SCENERY NEAR THE IRON GATES

[70 face page 319

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 319

or groups of peasants in quaint costumes going in
procession to some religious shrine or festival. In
the neighbourhood of the famous Iron Gates, the
scenery is particularly fine and impressive, far finer
than anything I have seen on the Rhine. Here the
river abandons its usual majestic but somewhat
monotonous course, and makes sudden turns and
twists through narrow gorges. Rocks of brilliant
colours, now bright red, now a creamy white, like
marble, rise abruptly in perpendicular pinnacles and
fantastic spires.

On the south side may be seen, hewn into the
rock which overhangs the river, the old Roman road
made by Trajan. These rocky cliffs and perpen-
dicular heights should be interesting to geologists.
The strata in some places appear to be twisted and
contorted to an extraordinary degree. The rocks
in consequence present such a curious appearance
that I attempted to photograph them in passing ;
but it is almost impossible to photograph such detail
from a moving steamer, and the results were quite
worthless.

After passing Belgrade, which happened after
dark, I interested myself in identifying the places
visited by Prince Rudolf in his memorable expe-
dition down the Danube. Since that date, 1878,
many changes seem to have taken place, which is
not surprising, for the farthest point reached by him

320 BIRD-HUNTING

in his fifteen days’ expedition is only twenty hours
by steamer from Budapest.

Of the Friiska-gora I can say nothing, for it is too
remote from the river; but of the other places I
fear that an ornithologist. rash enough to visit them
expecting to find Sea Eagles, Black Storks, and
Ospreys would be doomed to disappointment. It is
possible, of course, that a few birds may still exist
in the more remote parts, and in the solitudes of the
marshy woods and islands, but it would. be quite
hopeless to expect to find them in the abundance of
thirty years ago. The Osprey, indeed, constantly
mentioned by the Crown Prince as being found on
the Danube everywhere in great abundance, is now
very rare. Why, I do not know, but I failed to see
this bird at all; and though I made inquiries about
it wherever I went, nobody seemed to know any-
thing of it. One would think that in the solitudes of
the immense district of the Dobrudscha, where all
the conditions seem favourable to its habits, it would
find congenial hunting-grounds and nesting-places,
but such is not the case. Even in the lagoons of
Albania, where birds are absolutely unmolested by
the inhabitants, I never saw one, and Herr Reiser
informed me that it was extremely rare in Bosnia
and the surrounding countries.

Though I kept a good look-out during this voyage
up the river—it was, in fact, all I had to do to pass

LOADING MAIZE LIGHTERS AT RUSTCHUK

HUNGARIAN VILLAGE ON THE DANUBE

[To face page 320

THROUGH WILD EUROPE 321

the time—there were but few birds noticed above
Belgrade, and those few only of common species,
like Cormorants, Grey Herons, Ducks, or the smaller
Hawks, such as Hobbies and Kestrels. I saw no
Eagles or any of the larger birds of prey, which I
had been accustomed to see almost daily on the
lower parts of the Danube.

The journey home by train was spoilt by a stupid
German porter, who put me into the Hook of
Holland train instead of the Calais-Dover at
Cologne—a most irritating mistake to happen at
the very last day, after knocking about for six
months through many wild countries without any
mishap.

Thus ended an expedition full of interest, in spite
of some occasional hardship and discomfort and
constant and continual hard work. For bird and
egg collecting, combined with photography, in wild
countries, is no child’s play, and requires absolute
fitness in condition and general health, and plenty
of enthusiasm for the work, without which it is
impossible to stand the strain and bodily and mental

fatigue.

21

of

ot

°
°

APPENDIX

LIST OF SPECIES MET WITH, AND LOCALITIES
o Eggs taken. + Skins procured.

Mistle Thrush, Turdus viscivorus, Ziv. Albania.

Song Thrush, Turdus musicus, Ziv. Spain, Albania.

Blackbird, Turdus merula, Zz”. Spain, Albania, Corfu.

Blue Rock Thrush, Monticola cyanus. Spain.

Redwing, Turdus iliacus, Zim”. Albania.

Wheatear, Saxicola cenanthe, Zizz. Bosnia, Montenegro,
Roumania.

Black Chat, Saxicola leucura. Spain, Montenegro.

Whinchat, Pratincola rubetra, Zzzm. Spain, Montenegro.

Stonechat, Pratincola rubicola, Zzzm. Spain.

Redbreast, Erythacus rubecula, Zzmz. Corfu, Albania.

Nightingale, Daulias luscinea, Z7zz. Spain, Albania, Mon-
tenegro.

Whitethroat, Sylvia cinerea, Bech. Roumania.

Lesser Whitethroat, Sylvia curruca, Zzzm. Roumania.

Orphean Warbler, Sylvia orphea, Zenminck. Spain.

Blackcap, Sylvia atricapilla, Zé. Spain.

Western Olivaceous Warbler, Hypolais opaca. Spain.

Barred Warbler, Sylvia nisoria, Bechstein. Roumania.

Dartford Warbler, Sylvia undata, Boddaert. Spain.

Wood Wren, Phylloscopus sibilatrix, Bech. Montenegro.

Reed Warbler, Acrocephalus streperus, Viez//ot. Monte-
negro, Hungary.

Great Reed Warbler, Acrocephalus turdoides, AZeyer.
Hungary, Roumania, Montenegro, Albania.

Sedge Warbler, Acrocephalus phragmitis, Bech, Hungary.

Moustached Sedge Warbler, Lusciniola melanopogon. Hun-
gary.

Savi’s Warbler, Locustella luscinioides, Savi. Hungary,

Roumania.
322

APPENDIX 25

Hedge Sparrow, Accentor modularis, Zzzz. Albania.
ot Bearded Tit, Panurus biarmicus, Zizz. Hungary, Rou-
mania.
nest. Penduline Tit, A’githalus pendulinus. Albania, Roumania.
Long-tailed Tit, Acredula caudata, Zizz. Albania.
ot Great Tit, Parus major, Zzzz. Albania, Corfu, Spain.
Blue Tit, Parus coeruleus, Zizm. Albania, Corfu, Roumania,
Spain.
+ White Wagtail, Motacilla alba, Zinn. Bosnia, Albania,
Corfu, Dalmatia.

+t Blue-headed Wagtail, Motacilla flava, Z7zmz. Roumania.

+ Black-headed Wagtail, Motacilla atricapilla. Albania.
Wren, Troglodytes parvulus, Koch. Spain, Corfu, Albania.
Richard’s Pipit, Anthus richardi, Vier//ot. Spain.

ot Golden Oriole, Oriolus galbula, Zizn. Spain, Montenegro,
Hungary, Roumania.
of Southern Grey Shrike, Lanius meridionalis. Spain.
ot Lesser Grey Shrike, Lanius minor, Gmefn. Hungary,
Roumania.
ot Red-backed Shrike, Lanius collurio, Zzzz. Roumania,
Hungary.
ot Woodchat Shrike, Lanius pomeranus, Sfarrman. Spain.
Spotted Flycatcher, Muscicapa grisola. Zin. Spain.
1 Pied Flycatcher, Muscicapa atricapilla, Zzzz. Spain, Mon-
tenegro.
Swallow, Hirundo rustica, Zizx. Spain, Montenegro,
Roumania, Albania, Hungary.
House Martin, Chelidon urbica, Zimz. Spain, Montenegro,
Roumania.
Sand Martin, Cotile riparia, Zzz”. Spain, Bosnia.
Crag Martin, Cotile rupestris. Spain.
Swift, Cypselus apus, Zzzz. Spain.
1 Alpine Swift, Cypselus melba, Zizz. Montenegro.
Pallid Swift, Cypselus pallidus. Spain.
Greenfinch, Fringilla chloris. Spain.
Siskin Chrysometris spinus, Z7zz. Dalmatia, Montenegro.
Serin, Serinus hortulanus, Koch. Spain.
o Goldfinch, Carduelis elegans, S/ephens. Dalmatia, Spain,
Corfu, Montenegro.

324
of

APPENDIX

Tree Sparrow, Passer montanus, Zizz. Bosnia, Albania,
Roumania.

Chaffinch, Fringilla ccelebs, Zizm. Corfu, Spain.

Corn Bunting, Emberiza miliaria, Zia. Spain.

Black-headed Bunting, Emberiza melanocephala, Scopo/:.
Roumania. :

Reed Bunting, Emberiza schceniclus, Zim. Roumania,
Spain.

Ortolan, Emberiza hortulana, Zizz. Roumania.

Starling, Sturnus vulgaris, Zizz. Roumania.

Rose-coloured Pastor, Pastor roseus, Zz. Roumania.

Jay, Garrulus glandarius, Zizm. Albania.

Magpie, Pica rustica, Scofol. Spain, Hungary, Corfu,
Montenegro, Albania, Roumania.

Jackdaw, Corvus monedula, Zizz. Bosnia, Montenegro,
Albania.

Raven, Corvus corax, Zim. Spain, Albania, Montenegro.

Hooded Crow, Corvus cornix, Lian. Albania, Bosnia,
Roumania, Montenegro.

Rook, Corvus frugeligus, Zézz. Hungary, Albania.

t Crested Lark, Alauda cristata, Zim. Spain, Albania,

Roumania.

Dresser’s Short-toed Lark, Calandrella bcetica, Dresser.
Spain.

Calandra Lark, Melanoconypha calandra. Spain, Rou-
mania.

Nightjar, Caprimulgus europeus, Zzzz. Roumania.

Rufous-necked Nightjar, Caprimulgus ruficollis, Zenm.
Spain.

Wryneck, Yunx torquilla, Zam. Spain.

Sharpe’s Green Woodpecker, Gecinus Sharpii. Spain.

Kingfisher, Alcedo ispida, Zzzz. Spain, Roumania.

Roller, Coracias garrula, Zimz. Albania, Roumania.

Bee-Eater, Merops apiaster, Zizm. Spain, Albania, Monte-
negro.

Hoopoe, Upupa epops, Zinn. Spain, Albania, Monte-
negro, Roumania.

Cuckoo, Cuculus canorus, Zim. Montenegro, Roumania,
Albania.

APPENDIX 325

Great Spotted Cuckoo, Coccystes glandarius. Spain.
Barn Owl, Stryx flammea, Zizn, Spain.
1 Tawny Owl, Syrnium aluco, Z7zm. Montenegro.
Short-eared Owl, Asio accipitrinus, Pa//as. Montenegro.
+ Little Owl, Athene noctua, ScopolZ. Montenegro, Spain,
Albania.
Scops Owl, Scops giu, Scopo/. Spain, Montenegro,
Albania.
of Black Vulture, Vultur monachus. Roumania.
of Griffon Vulture, Gyps fulvus, Gmelin. Spain, Albania,
Roumania.
o Egyptian Vulture, Percnopterus neophron, Zznz. Spain,
Albania, Roumania.
of Marsh Harrier, Circus ceruginosus, Zin”. Spain, Rou-
mania, Hungary, Montenegro, Albania.
7 Pallid Harrier, Circus pallidus. Roumania. _
Montagu’s Harrier, Circus cineraceus, Montagu. Spain.
Buzzard, Buteo vulgaris, Leach. Albania.
+ Steppe Buzzard, Buteo desertorum. Albania.
o Spotted Eagle, Aquila clanga, Pav/as. Roumania.
Golden Eagle, Aquila chrysaétus, Lizz. Herzegovina,
Albania.
of Sea Eagle, Haliaétus albicilla, Zénm. Albania, Montenegro,
Roumania.
© Bonelli’s Eagle, Aquila bonellii. Spain.
of Imperial Eagle, Aquila imperialis. Roumania, Albania.
Spanish Imperial Eagle, Aquila adalberti. Spain.
ot Booted Eagle, Aquilla pennata. Spain, Roumania.
of Short-toed Eagle, Circaétus gallicus. Spain, Roumania.
Goshawk, Astur palumbarius, Zz. Albania.
Sparrow-hawk, Accipiter nisus, Ziv. Albania.
ot Kite, Milvus regalis, Sevigny. Spain, Albania.
of Black Kite, Milvus migrans, Bodd. Spain, Roumania.
Peregrine, Falco peregrinus, Zussta/l. Spain, Albania.
Saker falcon, Falco sacer. Roumania.
Lanner, Falco feldeggi. Albania.
+ Hobby, Falco subbuteo, Zina. Montenegro, Roumania.
ot Red-footed Falcon, Falco vespertinus, Zaz. Hungary,
Albania, Roumania.

326

°

T

of

of

ot

ot

~-

ot

of

—j-

APPENDIX

Kestrel, Falco tinunculus, Zzz#. Spain, Albania, Roumania.

Lesser Kestrel, Falco cenchris, Wauwmann. Montenegro,
Spain.

Dalmatian Pelican, Pelecanus crispus. Montenegro, Al-
bania.

Crested Pelican, Pelecanus onocrotalus. Roumania.

Cormorant, Phalacrocorax carbo, Zima. Austria.

Pigmy Cormorant, Phalacrocorax pygmeus. Montenegro,
Albania, Roumania.

Heron, Ardea cinerea, Zzzm. Montenegro, Hungary,
Roumania, Albania.

Purple Heron, Ardea purpurea, Zia. Spain, Hungary,
Montenegro, Albania, Roumania.

Great White Heron, Ardea alba, Zin. Montenegro,
Albania, Roumania.

Little Egret, Ardea garzetta, Zim. Spain, Albania, Mon-
tenegro.

Buff-backed Heron, Audouin. Spain.

Squacco Heron, Ardea ralloides, Scopoli. Albania, Rou-
mania.

Night Heron, Nycticorax griseus, Zinn. Montenegro,
Albania, Roumania.

Bittern, Botaurus stellaris, Zizm. Albania, Hungary, Rou-
mania, Montenegro.

Little Bittern, Ardetta minuta, Zinn. Montenegro, Rou-
mania, Hungary.

White ‘Stork, Ciconia alba, Beck. Spain, Hungary, Mon-
tenegro, Albania, Roumania.

Glossy Ibis, Plegadis falcinellus, Zinn. Montenegro,
Albania, Roumania.

Spoonbill, Platelea leucorodia, Zim. Roumania, Albania.

Grey-lag Goose, Anser cinereus, Meyer. Roumania.

Mute Swan, Cygnus olor, Gmelin. Roumania.

Sheldrake, Tadorna cornuta, Gmelin. Albania.

Mallard, Anas boschas, Zim”. Albania, Roumania.

Gadwall, Anas strepera, Zizm. Albania, Roumania.

Shoveler, Spatula clypeata, Zizm. Albania.

Pintail, Dafila acuta, Zinn. Albania.

Teal, Querquedula crecca, Zizz. Albania.

=

of

+

ot

APPENDIX 427

Wigeon, Mareca penelope, Zim7. Albania.

Pochard, Fuligula ferina, Zima. Hungary.

Red-crested Pochard, Fuligula rufina, Pa//as. Roumania.

Marbled Duck, Anas marmorata. Albania.

White-eyed Pochard, Fuligula nyroca, Guldenstédt. Rou-
mania, Montenegro, Hungary, Albania.

Goosander, Mergus merganser, Zinn. Hungary.

Red-breasted Merganser, Mergus serrator, Zinn. Hungary,
Corfu.

Wood Pigeon, Columba palumbus, Zizz. Spain.

Turtle Dove, Turtur communis, Sey. Spain, Albania.

Rock Dove, Columba livia, Gmelin. Spain, Montenegro.

Collared Turtle Dove, Turtur risorius. Albania.

Partridge, Perdix cinerea, Zizm. Hungary.

Red-legged Partridge, Caccabis rufa, Zin”. Spain.

Quail, Coturnix communis, Boxnaterre. Spain, Roumania,
Albania.

Spotted Crake, Porzana maruetta, Leach, Hungary.

Little Crake, Porzana parva, Scopoz. Hungary.

Water-rail, Rallus aquaticus, Zz. Hungary.

Coot, Fulica atra, Zim. Montenegro, Roumania, Albania.

Crane, Grus communis, Bech. Spain.

Demoiselle Crane, Grus virgo. Roumania.

Great Bustard, Otis tarda, Zzzm. Roumania.

Little Bustard, Otis tetrax, Zz”. Spain.

Stone Curlew, CEdicnemus scolopax, Gmelin. Spain, Mon-
tenegro.

Pratincole, Glareola pratincola, Zizz. Spain, Montenegro,
Albania, Hungary.

Kentish Plover, Aégialitis cantiana, Zatham. Spain, Al-
bania.

Ringed Plover, Agialitis hiaticula, Zzmz. Spain, Albania.

Lapwing, Vanellus cristatus, Bech. Spain, Albania, Hun-
gary.

Oystercatcher, Heematopus ostralegus, Ziv. Albania.

Avocet, Avocetta recurvirostra, Zinn. Albania.

Stilt, Himantopus candidus, Bonnaterre. Spain.

Woodcock, Scolopax rusticula, Zizz. Albania.

Snipe, Gallinago ccelestis, Fvenze/. Albania.

328 APPENDIX

+ Jack Snipe, Gallinago gallinula, Zizn. Albania.
Dunlin, Tringa alpina, Zinn. Spain.
+ Little Stint, Tringa minuta, Zeés/er, Albania.
Knot, Tringa canutus, Zim”. Spain.
+ Ruff, Machetes pugnax, Zizn. Albania.
+ Sandpiper, Totanus hypoleucus, Zizz. Montenegro.
+ Wood Sandpiper, Totanus glareola, Gmelin. Albania.
Green Sandpiper, Totanus ochropus, Zizm. Montenegro.
+ Marsh Sandpiper, Totanus stagnatilis. Montenegro.
+ Redshank, Totanus calidris, Zizn. Albania, Spain.
+ Greenshank, Totanus canescens, Gmelin. Albania.
Godwit, ?sp. Montenegro.
Curlew, Numenius arquata, Zizm. Albania, Corfu.
ot Black Tern, Hydrochelidon nigra, Z7zm. Hungary, Albania,
Montenegro, Roumania.
o White-winged Black Tern, Hydrochelidon leucoptera,
Schinz. Hungary.
Whiskered Tern, Hydrochelidon hybrida, Pad/as. Spain.
{ Caspian Tern, Sterna caspia, Pad/as. Montenegro, Rou-
mania.
ot Common Tern, Sterna fluviatilis, Waumann. Roumania,
Albania.
7 Little Tern, Sterna minuta, Zinz. Albania.
+ Little Gull, Larus minutus, Palas. Roumania.
o Black-headed Gull, Larus ridibundus, Zzazz. Corfu, Hun-
gary, Albania, Roumania.
t Mediterranean Black-headed Gull, Larus melanocephalus,
Natterer. Roumania.
ot Herring Gull, Larus argentatus, Gme/in. Roumania.
of Yellow-legged Herring Gull, Larus cachinnans, Pad/as.
Montenegro, Albania.
o Great Crested Grebe, Podiceps cristatus, Zim. Albania,
Hungary, Roumania.
7 Red-necked Grebe, Podiceps rubricollis, Bodd. Roumania.
o Black-necked Grebe, Podiceps nigricollis, Brehm. Corfu,
Hungary, Roumania.
o Little Grebe, Podiceps fluviatilis, Zumsta/Z Hungary.

INDEX

Acrocephalus turdoides, 301
Albania, 65, 85, 178, 205-241
Albanian costume, 79, 125
Albanian frontier, 74, 140
Albanian roads, 105, 142, 145
Albanian robbers, 111, 223
Albanians, Armed, I1o1
Alcazar, 59

Algeciras, 24, 38
Alparagatas, 35, 289

Anas ferina, 184

Andalusia, 13

Anser cinereus, 265
Antivari, 65, 177

Aguila clanga, 298

Aguila imperialis, 46
Aguila pennata, 46

Ardea alba, 61, 137, 193) 254, 315
Ardea bubuleus, 25

Ardea cinerea, 150, 172, 280
Ardea garzetta, 163

Ardea purpurea, 172, 188
Ardea ralloides, 280, 307
Ardetta minuta, 188, 189
Athene noctua, 255

Babadagh, Forest of, 284-298

Balkans, The, 35

Balkans, The, revisited, 196-258

Balkans, The, revisited : Albania,
205-241

Balkans, The, revisited: Monte-
negro, 242-258

Bear, 14, 64, 285

Bee-eater, 26, 29, 54, 176, 280, 298,
299, 300, 301 |

Birds’-nesting in Hungary, 179-
195

Birds’-nesting in Spain, 13-59

Bittern, 176, 210, 280, 304

Bittern, Little, 83, 188, 189

Blackbird, 97, 203

Blackcap, 56

Bojana river, 140, 164

Bornemisza, Baron, 86, 123, 199,
210

Bosnia, 60, 62, 197

Brigands, 43

Bubo maximus, 63, 295, 298

Bucharest, 259, 282

Budapest, 179, 190, 211, 258

Bugs, 23

Bulgarian Empire, 211

Bulgarian villages, 318

Bunting, Ortolan, 300

Bustard, 180, 300, 304

Bustard, Little, 29

Buzzard, 53, 218

Cadiz, 38

Camel, 51

Carpathians, 109, 197

Cattaro, 65, 70, 242, 249

Cerva, Herr, 182, 188, 192

Cetinje, 242, 248, 249

Chaffinch, 203

Chapman, 33, 51, 56

Chat, Black, 255

Choza, Spanish, 28, 50

Circaétus gallicus, 46

Circus eruginosus, 184

Coot, 83, 90, 91, 106, 183, 218, 266,
305

Coracias garrula, 299

Corfu, 70, 197-204

Cormorant, 321

339

Cormorant, Pygmy, 202, 292
Corvus cornix, 133
Corvus monedula, 97
Crag Martin, 16
Crake, Baillon’s, 50
Crake, Little, 50, 193
Crake, Spotted, 50, 193
Crane, 25

Cuckoo, 26, 302
Curlew, 42, 90, 202
Curlew, Stone, 52
Cygnus olor, 265
Cypselus melba, 253

Dalmatia, 62, 70

Danube, 58, 97, 180, 258

Danube fish, 262, 263

Diver, Red-throated, 181

Dobrudscha, 58, 193, 252, 281

Dobrudscha, Collecting in, 259-
321

Duck, 106, 321

Duck, White-eyed, 83

Dulcigno, 65, 242

Dunlin, 42

Durazzo, 84, 199, 211

Eagle, Bonellii, 22, 30
Eagle, Booted, 46, 47, 49, 51, 53,

go

Eagle, Golden, 13, 34, 64, 221

Eagle, Imperial, 46, 107, 134, 293,
295

Eagle, Pygmy, 48, 49

Eagle, Sea, 46, 73, 90, 106, 109,
III, 120, 215, 218, 220, 223, 230,
231, 312, 318, 320

Eagle, Short-toed, 46, 47, 90

Eagle, Spotted, 298

Eagle, White-tailed, 14

Eagles, 13, 41, 52, 220

Eagles and Storks, Interlude with,
106-113

Egret, Little, 44, 90, 121, 132, 149,
163-215

Emberiza hortulana, 300

Falcon, Red-footed, 180, 194
Falcon, Saker, 293
Falco sacer, 293

INDEX

Falco vespertinus, 194
Flamingo, 41, 44
Flycatcher, Pied, 255
Fuligula nyroca, 266
Fuligula rufina, 302

Gadwall, 90, 302

Gibraltar, 15, 24, 26, 43

Glareola pratincola, 193

Godwit, 42, 73

Goldfinch, 34, 38, 73

Goosander, 181

Goose, Wild, 220, 265, 281

Goshawk, 107

Gravosa, 64, 65

Grebe, Black-necked, 183, 268,
280, 313

Grebe, Great Crested, 183, 280,

313

Grebe, Little, 183, 193, 313

Grebe, Red-necked, 280, 313

Greece, 197

Greenshank, 215

Griffon Vulture, 14, 15, 16, 19, 27,
29, 30, 35, 38, 180, 220, 221, 226,
288, 292

Grus communis, 25

Guadalquivir, 40

Guardas civiles, 43

Gull, 41, 218

Gull, Black-headed, 92, 184, 204,

215
Gull, Great Black-backed, 93
Gull, Herring, 93, 315
Gull, Little, 316
Gull, Mediterranean

headed, 316
Gull, Yellow-legged Herring, 90,

91, 176
Gypaétus barbatus, 196

Black-

ffaliaétus albicilla, 46, 230

Harrier, Marsh, 25, 28, 51, 73,
83, 90, 92, 184, 188, 280, 301,
313

Harrier, Pallid, 280

Hermann, Herr Otto, 182

Heron, Buff-backed, 25, 44, 50

Heron, Great White, 61, 90, 135,
148-175, 254, 315

INDEX

Heron, Grey, 90, 150, 153, 162,
169, 170, 171, 255, 266, 280, 321

Heron, Night, 44, 90, 266, 280,
281, 307, 310

Heron, Purple, 25, 83, 170, 188,
255, 266, 280, 301, 303

Heron, Search for the Great
White, 137-178

Heron, Squacco, 44, 121, 215, 266,
280, 307, 308, 309, 310

Herzegovina, 62, 64

Hobby, 72, 321

Hooded Crow, 63, 73, 97, 133, 167,
221, 230

Hoopoe, 54, 106, 180, 241, 255, 280,
299, 301

Hungarian cattle, 190

Hungary, Birds’-nesting in, 179-

195
LHydrochelidon hybrida, 25
HHydrochelidon leucoptera, 192
Hydrochelidon nigra, 186, 268

Ibis, Glossy, 121, 280, 310, 318

Jackal, 227

Jackdaw, 63, 78, 97, 214
Jay, 106

Jerez de la Frontera, 38, 40

Keating’s powder, 23, 57
Kestrel, 54, 115, 299, 321
Kestrel, Lesser, 16, 255
Kingfisher, 299

Kite, 41, 45, 51, 52, 54, 230
Kite, Black, 45, 46, 51, 288
Knot, 42

Lammergeier, 14, 196, 198, 201

Lanius excubttor, 55

Lantus meridtonalts, 55

Lanius minor, 299

Lark, Calandra, 29, 300

Lark, Crested, 29

Lark, Short-toed, 29

Larus argentatus, 315

Larus cachinnans, 91, 93, 1335134)
176, 315

Larus melanocephalus, 316

Larus ridibundus, 184, 316

331

Lebeda, 149

Lizard, Eyed, 52, 53, 56
Locustella luscinioides, 184, 301
Lelia cenosa, 267, 303
Lusciniola melanopogon, 187
Lynx, 14, 41

Machetes pugnax, 94

Madarasz, Dr. von, 182

Magpie, 73, 94, 97, 203, 221

Malaga, 23

Mallard, 90, 183, 302

Marisma, 41

Merganser, 202

Merops aptaster, 299

Milvus ater, 288

Milvus migrans, 46

Milvus regalis, 47

Mohammedan funeral, 257

Mohammedan men, 251

Mohammedan women, 250

Montenegrin costume, 67, 81

Montenegro, 65, 66

Montenegro: Balkans revisited,
242-258

Montenegro, Journey to, 60-71

Montenegro: Quest of the Pelican,
72-84

Mosquitoes, 57, 58, 270, 312

Motacilla atricapilla, 93

Motacilla flava, 203

Motacilla rait, 203

Neophron, 231
Nightingale, 26, 55
Nightjar, Red-necked, 52
Nycticorax griseus, 280, 307

Opanki, 35

Oriole, Golden, 54, 106, 180, 194,
203, 256, 300

Osprey, 320

Outs tarda, 300

Owl, Barn, 54

Owl, Eagle, 63, 288, 295

Owl, Little, 54, 176, 255, 299

Owl, Scops, 176

Owl, Ural, 63

Panurus biarmicus, 187

332

Passer montanus, 299

Pastor, Rose-coloured, 299

Pastor roseus, 299

Pelecanus crispus, 60, 61, 65, 196,
217, 229

Pelecanus onocrotalus, 61, 132,196,
258, 261, 281, 304, 309, 311, 316

Pelican, 60, 74, 84, 86-136, 161,
208, 212, 215, 229, 279

Pelican, Quest of the, 72-136

Peregrine, 54, 115

Phalacrocorax pygmeus, 202, 307

Pintail, 90, 209

Plavnica, 147

Plegadis faicinellus, 280

Plover, 42, 44

Plover, Green, 90

Plover, Kentish, 90

Plover, Ringed, 90

Pochard, 183, 184

Pochard, Red-crested, 302

Pochard, White-eyed, 90, 255,
266, 302

Podiceps cristatus, 183, 280

Podiceps minor, 183

ee nigricolits, 183, 203, 268,
280

Podiceps rubricollis, 280

Polenta, 297

Polluela, 50

Porzana maruetta, 193

Porzana parva, 193

Pratincole, 44, 176, 193, 256

Quail, 29
Quest of the Pelican, 72-136

Quinine, 57

Ragusa, 246

Rallus aquaticus, 193

Raven, 41, 51, 54, 97, 110, 221, 230
Red Deer, 41, 52

Redshank, 44

Reeve, 94, 255

Robin, 203

Roller, 54, 106, 280, 299, 300, 301
Ronda, 15, 16

Rook, 97

Sand-dunes, 52

INDEX

Sandmartin, 64

Sandpiper, 64, 73

Sandpiper, Marsh, 255

Sandpiper, Wood, 94

San Fernando, 40

Saturnia major, 269

Schenk, Herr, 182

Scutari, 99, 137-165

Serajevo, 60, 62, 63, 64

Seville, 59

Sheldrake, 90

Shoveler, 90

Shrike, Grey, 55

Shrike, Lesser Grey, 194, 299

Shrike, Southern Grey, 55

Shrike, Woodchat, 26, 29, 55, 300

Sleeping-bag, 129

Smew, 181

Snake, 52, 190

Snipe, 90

Spalax typhlus, 317

Sparrow, 181

Sparrow-hawk, 301

Sparrow, Tree, 64, 112, 299

Spoonbill, 90, 174

Sterna caspia, 307

Sterna fluviatilis, 94, 268

Sterna minuta, 94

Stilt, 42, 44

Stint, Little, 99

Stork, Black, 320

Stork, White, 25, I11, I12, 113,
241, 269, 280

Swallow, 241

Swan, Mute, 265, 266

Swift, Alpine, 253

Swift, Pallid, 16

Sylvia nisoria, 301

Syrnium uralensis, 63

Teal, 90, 209

Tern, Black, 186, 192

Tern, Caspian, 176, 307

Tern, Common, 94, 268, 302
Tern, Lesser, 94

Tern, Whiskered, 25, 50

Tern, White-winged Black, 192
Thrush, 97

Thrush, Blue Rock, 26

Thrush, Missel, 97

INDEX

Tit, 181

Tit, Bearded, 187

Tit, Blue, 97, 106, 203

Tit, Great, 55, 97, 106, 203

Tit, Penduline, 107, 170

Totanus glareola, 94

Totanus hypoleucus, 73

Lotanus stagnatilis, 255

Trichodroma muraria, 181

Trieste, 70

Tringa minuta, 94

Turkish custom-house, 85, 144,
157, 205

Turkish dinner, 117

Turkish justice, 104

Turkish officials, 102

Turtle Dove, 26, 56, 106

Ungarische Ornithologische-Cen-
trale, 181

Upupa epops, 299

Valencze See, 182

Vasquez, 51

Vendetta, 99, 123

Venice, 258

Viper, 150, 294

Vulture, 13

Vulture, Black, 46, 222, 226, 288,
290, 303.

Vulture, Cinereous, 30

Vulture, Egyptian, 14, 19, 26, 27,
31, 37, 38, 120, 288

Joe

Vulture, Griffon, 14, 15, 16, 19,
27, 29, 30, 35, 38, 180, 220, 221,
226, 288, 292

Vultur monachus, 46, 222

Wagtail, Black-headed, 93

Wagtail, Grey, 93

Wagtail, White, 64, 203

Wagtail, Yellow, 64, 203

Wall-Creeper, 181

Warbler, Barred, 301

Warbler, Dartford, 26

Warbler, Great Reed, 185, 280,
301 .

Warbler, Orphean, 55

Warbler, Reed, 186

Warbler, Savi’s, 28, 484, 301

Warbler, Sedge, 187

Warbler, Western Olivaceous, 55

Water-rail, 193

Wheatear, 64

Whinchat, 187, 255

Wigeon, 90, 209

Wild Boar, 14, 41, 52, 95, 201,
203, 285

Wild Cat, 283

Wolves, 14, 283

Woodcock, 94, 106, 201, 208

Woodpecker, 54, 203

Woodpecker, Green, 202

Woodpigeon, 57

Wren, 203

RicuarpD Cray & Sons, Limite,
BREAD STREET HILL, K.C., AND
BUNGAY, SUFFOLK.