THE
BOOK OF BEE'KEEPING.,

By W. B. WEBSTER.

ALBERT R. MANN
LIBRARY

NEw YorK STATE COLLEGES
OF
AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS

AT

CORNELL UNIVERSITY

EVERETT FRANKLIN PHILLIPS

BEEKEEPING LIBRARY

Cornell University Library

The book of bee-keeping :a practical and

Cornell University

Library

The original of this book is in
the Cornell University Library.

There are no known copyright restrictions in
the United States on the use of the text.

http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924001794381

THE

BUUK OF BEE-KEEPING.

A Practical and Complete Manual on the
Proper Management of Bees.

Specially Written for Amateurs, Beginners, Cottagers, and Others
who are not Experts.

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS.

By W. B. WEBSTER,

First-class Expert, B.B.K.A.; Specialist on Bee-Keeping to “‘ The Bazaar,”
and Senior Expert on Bees and Bee Appliances.

SECOND EDITION.

LONDON :
L. UPCOTT GILL, 170, STRAND, W.C

LONDON:
L. UPCOTT GILL, LONDON AND COUNTY PRINTING WORKS,
DRURY LANE, W.C.

CONTENTS.

SECTION
I.— INTRODUCTION ‘ ‘ . . :
II.—ADVANTAGES OF BEE-KEEPING . - - ;

IIIl.—THE HONEY BEE . - < F i
IV.—PRODUCTS OF BEES. . ‘ ‘ .

V.—COMBS

VI.—MODERN BEE-KEEPING i : : .
VII.—APPLIANCES. a 9 ‘ ‘
VIUIL—Foop. ‘ . 3 . : ‘ : r

IX.—SWARMING : . ‘i . 7 .
X.—MANIPULATING . . : ‘
XI.—HONEY
XII.—DISEASES OF BEES . ‘ s : . .
XIII—ENEMIES OF BEES . . . . ,
INDEX . : . ; ; ‘ 7 .

BARRS y= QEEDS

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FLOWERING BULBS have a_ world-wide
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Covent Garden, London, Priced and Descriptive Catalogue Free on application.

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A Grand Collection for Amateurs to Select from.

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Covent Garden, London.

The Wurseries are reached from London by South-Western rail to Surbiton
Station, and from thence a short walk past the New Recreation Grounds, or
cab to Pound Farm entrance, 1/-. Daffodils in flower, April; Tulips in
flower, May ; other hardy flowers “ the year round.”

BARR & SON, 7828 2e2%,, [ondon.

ABBOTT BROS.,

SOUTHALL, NEAR LONDON.

Ree Wee

BEEHIVE:and APPLIANCE MANUFACTURERS.

Importers and Breeders of Foreign
Bees and Queens.

DEALERS IN HONEY AND BEESWAX.

Inventors of most of the approved Appliances
now in use in the Bee world.

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ABBOTT BROS..,

SOUTHALL.

URTT, GLOUCESTE

EE-APPLIANCE
» MANUFACTURE

PALA

| AM VERY CAREFUL TO HAVE ONLY WELL-SEASONED WOOD
USED, AND SOLICIT A TRIAL.

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE FREE.
USEFUL BOOKS.

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London: L. UPCOTT GILL, 170, Strand, W.C.

A. W. HARRISON,

BEE APPLIANCE and COMB-
FOUNDATION MANUFACTURER.

POTTERS BAR, MIDDLESEX.

THE EMPORIUM FOR BEE-KEEPERS’
REQUISITES.

ORDERS PROMPTLY EXECUTED.

Cheapness and Quality Combined. Catalogues Free.

THOS. LANAWAY & SONS.

MANUFACTURERS OF

BEE APPLIANCES.

WARWICK WORKS,
REDHILL.

lllustrated Price List on Application.

THERE IS NO MEDIUM EQUAL TO THE

BAZAAR, EXCHANGE AND MART,

‘PUBLISHED EVERY WEEK FOR THE USE OF PRIVATE PERSONS, FOR

Priwate Sales & Bargains.

ESTABLISHED 27 YEARS,

170, LONDON, W.C.

TELEGRAMS : ‘‘ BAZAAR LONDON,”

For INFORMATION and ADVICE

ON EVERY POSSIBLE SUBJECT BY SPECIALISTS AND EXPERTS,
THERE IS NO MORE RELIABLE SOURCE THAN THE

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PRICE 2D. AT ALL NEWSAGENTS.

W.P. MEADOWS,

SYSTON, near LEICESTER,

WHOLESALE MANUFACLURER OF : Our

Bee Appliances, EXTRACTORS

Benches for Carpenters, the Best

Sloyd, and School Use. ae a

: 7 Little Wonder..

M 1 h tak Z t
the best shows for nearly 20 years. Windsor........ 15/-
None are better. Catalogue Post Free. d Guinea,
We supply the Trade, and make nearly 2 Patterns } al/-
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The Cowan ....50/-

Our Noted Hives

are known to every good
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p, i Free: | eee on one 15/6
Guinea, on the

W.B.C. Plan..21/-
Wells’ Hive....25,-

W.B.C. Ends.

We are the sole authorised Makers. None Genuine
unless stamped ‘‘ W.B.C.” (Registered),

New Super Clearer and Smokers,
Swarm Catcher. Feeders, &c.

MANY NEW ITEMS FOR 1896. Post Free.

THE

Book OF REE-KEEPING.

I.—INTRODUCTION.

1. Spread of Bee-keeping.—Apiculture, or, as it is most
frequently called, Bee-keeping, has made such rapid strides
during the last few years, that it is scarcely credible that even
so short a time ago as the commencement of this decade it was
quite an exceptional thing to see a bar-frame hive in a cottager’s
garden. Now, owing to the exertions of a few in promoting
this most useful employment, and greatly to the spread of in-
formation contained in periodicals—a few entirely devoted to
bee-culture, many others giving a share of their columns to its
advancement—it has spread itself over not only the British Isles,
but many countries far distant, even to the Antipodes.

2. Advantages.—It is an employment that, when once
commenced in real earnest, few get tired of; enthusiasts in bee-
culture are the rule, not the exception. Why is this? It offers
inducements that no other description of stock-keeping presents.
These advantages and inducements we will endeavour to set
forth in the following pages.

3. Object of this Book.—Many works have been written on
the subject; a great number of these have become obsolete, as
the researches of bee-masters have slowly and surely unravelled
the mysteries surrounding the bee-hive, or have discovered new
and more favourable methods of treating their little dependents.
Some, although recognised as standard works, are quite beyond
the reach of the artisan or cottager class, on account of their
expense. It is, therefore, desirable that a perfectly compre-
hensible manual on apiculture should be brought before the
public—one treating upon this subject in its most modern
aspect, but, at the same time, being quite free from any techni-

B

2 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

calities that would confound its readers, and so defeat the objects
of the work ; whilst the price would ensure its sale among those
who, without a help of this description, would stumble about
as one in the dark having no friendly light to guide them. We
will thus, while inditing the pages of this book, endeavour to
be guided by these precepts, trusting that, by so doing, we shall
be fully understood, and thus be of practical utility in the fur-
thering of this industry among those whose necessity compels
them to augment their slender incomes through its most certain
means, as well as those who look upon bee-keeping as a
pastime only, of the most healthful description.

4. Persons Suited to Bee-keeping.—Many commence
bee-keeping with the idea that it is simply to obtain a hive, stock
it with bees, and then allow them to look after their own and
their keeper’s interests. This idea has, no doubt, arisen from
the fact that before the modern system was introduced, it was
the only method of bee-keeping ; but such a system is of no
use with modern appliances ; better by far to keep the old straw
skeps. A modern bee-keeper who wishes to obtain the greatest
results, both intellectually and financially, is one who will neglect
no opportunity of attending, at the time being, to the wants of
his charges; procrastination must form no part of his character.
It may be that just at the moment when his attendance is
required, by procrastinating, that golden moment is passed,
which, in such a fleeting season as ours, is never regained.
Fear of his labourers must be banished from his mind; nothing ’
is gained by being afraid of them—there is no necessity for
such. If a bee means stinging, you cannot get away from it,
as it moves much faster than you possibly can. One might
almost try to dodge the lightning as to get away from a bee
that has actually made up its mind to introduce its weapon into
your skin. A careful, persevering man is bound to succeed.
An observant mind is a great desideratum; it is by noting the
behaviour of the bees that a knowledge of their requirements
is mostly gained. Note the movements of a queenless stock
in comparison to one having a queen. Their movements out-
side the hive are a certain indication of their condition within.
Open a hive, and if the bees are going to oppose you, an
observant eye will foresee their intentions at a glance. How
many times we have been asked the question, “ When does
the honey flow set in?” An observant bee-keeper will know at
once. A certain amount of business tact will be required in
finding a market for the produce, and here the careful bee-
keeper will gain the ascendency; his honey will be neatly
packed and graded as to quality. The careless will have
theirs with propolis on the sections, honey leaking from the
bottles, and a look of messiness pervading the whole —a
bad market being the result.

ADVANTAGES, 3

5. Persons Unsuited to Bee-keeping. — Those who
have an idea that bees require no attention; that care little for
their requirements, be it food in winter, or ventilation and shade
in summer—their only thought being the amount of honey
they can get without any trouble to the keepers. The I’ll-do-
it-to-morrow bee-keeper cannot be successful. There are just
a few who are physiologically debarred from being bee-keepers,
but these are seldom met with. One who, when stung, feels
the effects in a highly dangerous form; for such a one it is
extremely injudicious to keep, or, rather, to handle, bees.
There are many—and I wish to emphasise this—who start
bee-keeping, and expect others to look after their stocks. The
number of these is legion. To these, we advise either a little
more energy, or get rid of the bees.

IIlL—ADVANTAGES OF BEE-KEEPING.

6. An Intellectual Pursuit._-No one can watch a hive
of bees, be it an ordinary skep, a bar-frame, or an observatory
hive, without gaining intellectually. Watch the bee as it
brings home its load of pollen, carefully packed on its posterior
legs, just at the very time it is wanted for the hungry larve
within. Step into the garden, and see it gathering these loads ;
not first on this species of flower and then on that, but choosing
all those belonging to one family—passing from a dandelion,
right over that box tree, choking with pollen, to another
dandelion adjacent; dusting itself all over, and then, poising
in the air, removing the pollen grains from its body, and pack-
ing it tightly in its pollen baskets on each of its hind legs
while thus on the wing, and then returning to the flower for
another supply. Look into the observatory hive, and gaze
on the workers, hanging in clusters while secreting the wax,
and then, with busy feet and jaws, building their snow-white
comb with the minute scales of wax obtained from underneath
their bodies. Note the energy of those sentinel bees at the
entrance to the hive, in a moment detecting a stranger with
evident hostile intent—driving it away, or, perhaps, capturing and
killing it; the industry with which they go and return with
their stores, collecting only such a description as is wanted at
that particular time, never for a moment at fault as to which to
take. What an example to the onlooker! How dense must be
his mind to fail to gain something intellectual from these
examples !

7. An Aid to Health.—Fresh air, plenty of sunlight,
healthy occupation for the mind, a moderate amount of exercise,
are all conducive to our well-being. All these bee-keeping
offers. The weakly are sufficiently strong to manage a few
hives of bees; they require no great physical strength, but,
to attend to them, we must be in the fresh air and sunlight.

B2

4 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

One feels invigorated after a few hours’ work in the apiary.
A plant cannot thrive without sunlight; no man can obtain
thoroughly good health without it. Fresh air resuscitates our
energies, and acts as a sedative upon the nervous person; our
whole tone is brought to a healthy standard, which cannot be
so if we occupy ourselves in close, ill-ventilated, and shaded
apartments. Bee-keeping is a preventive; it is a poor man’s
doctor, or, rather, anti-doctor.

8. A Financial Success.—We say, without fear of con-
tradiction, that no description of stock-keeping is such a financial
success as bee-keeping. The old straw skep of our forefathers
was a considerable source of income; how much more so
must the modern hive be, replete with all the improvements
introduced by intelligent and ingenious bee-keepers? One
experiences a feeling of astonishment as quantities and quanti-
ties of golden honey or snow-white sections are removed from
the hive, each ounce having a marketable value and forming a
handsome total. We recently met a bee-keeper who, in one
season, took 200 sections from one hive; 135 he sold at one
shilling each, the remaining 65 (heather) at eighteenpence each.
Although this is quite an exceptional case in England, scores
and scores of modern bee-keepers take on an average 6olb.
from a colony. Even at sixpence per pound this will show a
fine profit on the outlay—thirty shillings per year is not to be
despised, as a man engaged in his ordinary avocations can easily
attend to ten colonies. In our Colonies, notably Australia,
a crop of 2oolb. from one colony would be looked upon as
rather insignificant or below the average. The honey produce
is not the only source of profit; wax finds a ready sale, and
when one does get a swarm, a good price is usually obtainable
for them upon the market.

9. An Assistance to the Working Man.—Perhaps a
few quotations of accounts that we know have been paid
working men for the produce of their bees, will not here be out
of place. One we ourselves have paid on an average of £6 per
year for some time past, and are not his only customers by far.
Another, £8 in a lump sum. A working man we met in North
Wales (Llanwrst) showed us his account book, and, after auditing
it, we found him £29 to the good in one season. Another, in
Northumberland (Felton), last season obtained a profit of £25.
There are one or two we know, notably a plate-layer on a
southern railway, who, keeping his bees on the railway bank, nets
quite a handsome income from them. We met him last season
taking a holiday in London, and a more intelligent man it would
be impossible to meet; bee-keeping, to him, he owns, has
raised him both intellectually and financially above his co-
workers. A lady we are acquainted with netted £2 Ios. from
one hive in 1885. We think that the foregoing is a positive

ADVANTAGES. 5

proof as to the financial superiority of bees above other descrip-
tions of stock kept by the working man.

10, An Adjunct to Farming and Gardening.—We
have been amused, on several occasions, at the ideas of a few
farmers, who deprecate bee-keeping as being detrimental to their
crops. In what manner are they so? The answer has always
been: “They take the saccharine matter from the clover, and
so rob the hay of its sweetness.” Let us look at this in its true
light. What is the nectar in the clover flower produced for?
As an attraction to the bees and other insects who, whilst col-
lecting same, carry the pollen from the male to the female
flower, or from the male to the female portions of different
flowers, and so fertilise them. By this we obtain the production
of seeds; a great impetus is given the plant in order to produce
them; and they—the seeds—contain the chief elements necessary
for the formation of flesh upon the cattle fed thereon. Without
the seeds the hay would, in comparison, be of small value.
Let us take the instance of hay that has been threshed for its
seed: would a farmer give as much per ton for such hay?
No. Would his stock fatten as well on such hay as that with
the seeds in? No. Any stock-keeper would substantiate this.
Without the bees the flowers would not be fertilised, and would
produce no seeds. If this is so, the bees are a source of profit
to the farmer, the stock-keeper, and the bee-keeper; the
consumer of the meat even reaping a benefit therefrom. This
is only one instance, as applied to clover; but it also applies
to all descriptions of seed stuffs which are fertilised by insects.
With the gardener or fruit-grower the above facts must be
self-evident. Without bees, their cherry, apple, raspberry, plum,
and currant orchards would be far less productive, and the
market gardener would obtain less quantities of edible seeds
and seed-pods. An apple-grower of our acquaintance, when
asked the question, ‘““Why do you keep so many bees?” replied,
with a smile, “Why, I tried doing without them a few years
ago, and it didn’t answer ; my crops of apples were hardly worth
gathering.” A widow woman in Hertfordshire, who depended,
in a great measure, upon her cherry orchard for a subsistence,
was obliged to obtain a fresh supply of bees after she had sold
her original hives, as her orchard was not nearly so productive ;
this quickly righted itself after the introduction of the bees.
These facts speak for themselves.

11. Honey as a Nutritious Food.—To those who can
eat honey at any time—and there are but a few who cannot—
it is a nourishment of the most agreeable form. It is the
quintessence of food. As a mild aperient it ranks as one of
the best. Its sweetening properties, as compared with sugar,
are far superior in their action upon the health, We cannot
do better than quote from the opinions of several eminent

,

6 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING

analysts, as set forth in a pamphlet issued by the British Bee-
keepers’ Association : “All food, if not soluble in water, requires
to be changed within the body before its nutritive parts can be
received into the system. This change is accomplished by the
process of solution, and is called digestion. Starch, which
forms three-fourths of the bread we eat, is useless as food while
it remains in the form of starch—undissolved. In the act of
eating, saliva changes part of the starch into sugar, which, in
due course, being received in solution into the blood, supplies
heat and power. Honey, in its natural state, is already in con-
dition for absorption into the system, and requires no labour
to render it a heat-producing power. Hence the superiority of
honey over all other kinds of sugar food.” But here we must
call attention to the fact that the honey must be pure, and none
of the compounds—usually consisting of glucose—sold as such.
Tons of this so-called honey have been sold in England, the
purchasers becoming disgusted with it. It has frequently pro-
duced nausea and other ailments, which many have laid at the
door of honey. Pure unadulterated honey, extracted from clean
combs, or eaten in the form of “sections,” will produce a healthy
condition of the body, which no other food-stuff has a like pro-
portion of power in so eminent a degree.

IlIl.—_THE HONEY BEE.

12. Object of Knowing its Natural History.—A con-
densed account of the bee’s natural history is of much importance
to the would-be bee-keeper; without this he will be like a man
groping in the dark. The reason of this or that happening will
be inexplicable, cause and effect will be an enigma. We will,
therefore, endeavour to give sufficient information upon this
subject that the veriest tyro will, after some reflection and
observation, be able to enter into conversation upon bee-keeping
matters with an assurance—at all times pleasant to feel—that
his knowledge and observations have placed him in a position
to substantiate any advice he may give or argument he may
desire to support. But we should wish especially to give this
caution; that not alone from quotations from books should the
knowledge be gained, but from close application to the practical
study of the hive and its contents; deducing such theories as
seem probable, and comparing these with those as written here
and in other works upon the subject.

13. Place in the Animal Kingdom.—The bee belongs
to the branch of the animal kingdom called Ardéculata, as all
its parts are jointed or articulated, and having no internal
skeleton. It forms one of the class of /#secta, which breathe
the air through a complication of tubes, branching all over the
body. The openings of these tubes are called spiracles, and
are situated along each side of the body; these are fringed

THE HONEY BEE. 7

with hairs, which exclude any dust or foreign particles from
entering. Its sub-class is the true insects or Hexapoda (mean-
ing six feet). This sub-class is characterised by their having
three divisions to the body—head, thorax, and abdomen. The
order of the honey-bee is Hymenoptera, or membranous wings,
of which the bee has four. The members of this order, with
few exceptions, are characterised by their providing and caring
for their young, which at first are quite helpless. Its family is
called Apzde ; the insects of this family all feed their young upon
pollen, or honey and pollen, and all of this family have the first
joint, or tarsus, of the two posterior legs widened, which, together
with a broad tibia hollowed out, and in the genus 4Zzs fringed
with stiff hairs, form a receptacle in which they carry pollen and
propolis to their hives. This receptacle is called by bee-keepers
the pollen basket. The honey bee belongs to this latter genus
Apis, which is again sub-divided into a number of varieties.

14. Natural Habitat.—The honey bee, in England, has
been so long associated with the straw skep that old-fashioned
bee-keepers have long ago given up the idea as to any other
form of outward architecture, and seem to be quite assured in
their own mind that straw is, and always has been, the material
from which its home has been, and ought to be, constructed ; so
convinced are they of this, that upon the advent of wood hives
they dubiously shook their heads and prognosticated a com-
plete failure, simply because a straw hive was, according to their
ideas, a more natural dwelling. We are frequently astonished at
even advanced bee-keepers upholding this theory. Did our
forefathers of many generations ago make straw skeps? We
venture to assert that they did not, but preferred—as in many
uncivilised tribes of the present day—-to take their honey from the
holes in trees, where the bee’s natural home is to be found.
Wood, not straw, is the bee’s choice of outside architecture. We
make our bar frame hives of wood. It is not our wish to assert
that in all cases this desire on the part of the bees to build
their combs in hollow trees is strictly adhered to ; but will simply
say that any hollow space, be it in straw, wood, stone, brick, or
any other material that will keep out the rain is the bee’s
natural habitat. Of course, straw would be, unless specially
fashioned by man, the most unlikely material in which we should
expect to find a colony of bees. There are a few varieties of the
genus Afzs who construct their combs without any covering,
under the limbs of trees, notably 4Z7s dorsata, of India and
Ceylon. Even in our own country, an exceptional case here and
there has occurred of such proceedings on the part of a swarm
of ordinary English bees, but successful wintering has never been
accomplished under such circumstances. The tribes along a
portion of the Congo, in Central Africa, keep quantities of bees
in rush baskets, suspended upon the branches of trees, and

8 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

remove the honey by means of frightening the bees with
smoke.

15. Varieties of the Honey Bee.— We are not, in the
present volume, at all interested in the varieties of the honey
bee which have not been brought under our notice within our
hives. We pass over the little, stingless bees of Mexico with
supreme contempt, as, according to the experiences of several
entomologists, they are simply miniature humble bees, or, as they
are more familiarly styled, ‘‘dumble-dores,” storing very little,
if any, honey. The giant Afzs dorsafa—one would wish it could
be acclimatised—with its worker-cells as large as the English
drone-cells, albeit the drone is no larger than the worker—a
famous storer of honey. We will now turn our attention to
those bees most familiar to English bee-keepers.

16. The Black Bee.—First comes the well-known English
(German) black bee, now rapidly being changed into a mongrel
by constant crossing with imported varieties. All know this
sombre little labourer, and, take it all round, one will find it difficult
to beat as a hardy, industrious, and serviceable honey gatherer.

17. The Ligurian, or Italian Alp Bee.—This stands
next in order of more general distribution over the British Isles ;
is a handsome, thrifty, and hard-working member of the family
of honey bees. Our opinion of them is of the highest description ;
in our own apiary, no other variety of bees has given so large
a return. At this season (1887), every Italian stock has beaten
the blacks by quite 25 per cent. The manner of protecting
their hives from robbers is most remarkable as compared with
the English or black bee. With this latter, a half-hearted sort
of resistance is made, perhaps only one sentinel tee beating off
the would-be robber ; but with the Italian, four, five, and even
six sentinels will pounce down upon any single stranger trying
to invade the precincts of their hive; not only will they attack them
on the alighting-board, but will even venture to repulse them upon
the wing. Go to the hive, and remove a frame—very little intimida-
tion is required—and, when it is held up to the gaze, they remain
so immovable on the comb that the discovery of the queen is an
easy task. But, like all things, they have their failings ; one of
these is that, if you wish to shake them off the comb, they will
not fall properly, but very diligently endeavour to spread them-
selves all over the apiary, as they take wing directly they fall
from the comb. We remember on one occasion endeavouring to
throw a swarm down in front of a hive—their future abode—when,
to our great surprise, they distributed themselves on every avail-
able portion around the apiary: flowers, trees, walls, hives, each
received its share; but, after a time, they collected together, and
soberly walked in, to found a colony that we have never had
beaten. The queen is about the same size as our English black
bee, but differs very materially in point of colour. The body

THE HONEY BEE, 9

colour is a light brown, the under part of the abdomen being
quite an orange yellow, except at the tip; each segment of the
upper part has a broad band of this colour on its anterior edge,
giving it a striped appearance. The drones are much darker
than the queen; they are rather imperfectly striped with a bronze
yellow colour; they, on this account, are very easily distinguished
from the drones of the black bee. The worker is a slightly
smaller and sharper-looking bee than the black, and has the
three anterior rings of the abdomen at their front edges, coloured
with an orange-yellow band; the middle or second segment
being much broader than the other two. When young, the
hairs with which: their body is covered are quite auburn-coloured,
which gives the bee a very light appearance. They have also
the anterior edges of each segment of their abdomen fringed
with light-coloured hairs.

18. The Carniolan.—The Carniolan, or “ Ladies’ Bee,”
as some have termed them, is scarcely distinguishable—except
by a close observer—from our own black bee. They have
each segment of the abdomen, at its anterior edge, fringed with
light-coloured hairs, which give it quite a silvery look. They
are celebrated for their gentleness when handled; although
we have found that they can use their stings, and, in some
cases, very freely. We never did anything very extraordinary
with them in the way of honey gathering, whilst their swarming
proclivities are unfortunately very pronounced.

19. The Cyprian.—This is very much like the Italian,
with the exception that they have a greater preponderance
of yellow on their bedy; in fact, the whole under side of the
abdomen is yellow to the tip. We have found these extremely
irritable—in fact, so much so that we discarded them entirely,
but mean to try them again, as, by careful selection, we are
assured that this pugnacious feature is being gradually bred
out of them. They are excellent honey-gatherers and feeders.

20. The Syrian.—This is a very similar-looking bee to
the Cyprian. They are exceedingly prolific and active, and,
to a careful bee-keeper, would prove quite an acquisition.

21. The Albino.— This, although frequently advertised
for sale as a distinct species, is, without doubt, but a slight
variation of the Italian or Ligurian, and may be passed over
as of no more practical utility than its progenitors.

There are a few other varieties than those enumerated above
which one hears of now and again, but those we have described
are the ones chiefly claiming attention at the present time.

22. Kinds of Bee in a Hive.—A hive in a normal
condition, during the swarming season, contains three different
kinds of bees—viz., the queen, or mother bee; the drone, or male ;
and the worker, an undeveloped female. But, during autumn,

Io THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

winter, and early spring, only two kinds populate the hive—the
queen and the worker bees, the drones having been expelled.

23. Physiology of the Honey Bee.—A treatise on the
anatomy of the honey bee would be rather foreign to the present
volume, but some insight into the physiology will be found of
great service to the bee-keeper, as placing him in a position
to be able to support assertions which, without such a know-
ledge, would be almost an impossibility. This knowledge we
have often found of great service to us in our arguments with
the bee-keeper of, happily, bygone times.

24. The Queen.—We will give a description, in the first
place, of the queen, or, more correctly speaking, the mother
bee. She is the only perfectly-developed female in the hive.
Her outward appearance is quite distinct from either a drone
or worker. She is much longer—her length, when in the heignt
of the egg-laying season, is about %in. as against the length
of a worker about %in.; this length is principally caused by
the size and length of the abdomen. Her wings, although as
long as those of a worker, appear much shorter ; this is but an
optical delusion, caused by the contrast to the length of her
body. Her jaws are weaker, and her tongue much _ shorter,
than those of a worker. Her eyes, instead of meeting on top
of the head, as a drone, are placed at the side,
having quite a space between the topmost edges
of each. Her two posterior legs are very broad,
but do not have any indentation on the surfaces,
or stiff hairs, which the worker has to form pollen
baskets. She has a sting, but differing from the
workers in its being curved scimitar-like, and
also possessing a less number of barbs. It is
quite a rare occurrence for a queen to use her
sting when handled; in fact, only two isolated

The Queen. cases have come under our notice. Her legs

and under portions of her body are much lighter-
coloured than the workers or drones. Upon dissection, we find
a still greater difference ; the two air sacs of the worker are
here partially displaced by two huge ovaries, communicating
with which are two tubes or ducts, terminating in a single one,
and thence to the outside of the queen’s body ; these are called
oviducts, and form the channel whereby the egg is conveyed from
the ovaries into the cell, when laying. Situated just below the
junction of these two tubes, and communicating with the single
tube, is the spermatheca, or receptacle for the spermatozoa from
the Crone at the time of impregnation. Leukart estimates that
the spermatheca of a bee is capable of holding 25,000,000 sper-
matozoa. As connection only takes place once in the queen’s
life, it is necessary that there should be a receptacle to hold
a sufficient quantity of the seminal fluid of the drone to fertilise

THE HONEY BEE. Il

the enormous number of eggs laid by the queen. It has been
estimated that, at the height of the breeding season, a pro-
lific queen will lay from 2,000 to 3,000 eggs per day; each
of these, before it will hatch to a worker or queen, must receive
its share of the seminal fluid. If a queen should not meet the
drone, which sometimes takes place through stress of weather,
she will still lay eggs, and these same eggs will hatch, but all
such will only produce drones, or males. This strange anomaly °
is called parthenogenesis, or virgin breeding. We often find very
old queens producing but drones; this is accounted for by the
fact that, the spermatheca having been emptied of its contents,
there are no spermatozoa to fertilise the eggs, which fertilisation
must take place before such eggs will produce workers or
queens. In this case, the bees usually supersede the queen
shortly before she has laid the last of the fertilised eggs; but
how they can obtain a knowledge of this we are at a loss to
know. As great doubts have been frequently expressed by
many as to the possibility of there being such a condition of
things as virgin breeding, we give a few proofs which are
irrefutable. We find that unmated queens can, and do, lay
eggs, and these same eggs hatch, but they always produce
males (drones). Old queens, upon microscopical examination,
are always found to be destitute of spermatozoa in the sper-
matheca. A very celebrated microscopist, Herr von Siebold,
found that eggs laid in drone-cells were devoid of spermatozoa,
whilst others laid by the same fertilised queen, in worker-cells,
were found to contain spermatozoa.

25. Functions of the Queen.—The duties of the mother
bee, miscalled the queen, are of paramount importance in a
hive. She is the life; the success or non-success of the
colony rests entirely upon her prolificacy or non-prolificacy.
Each of the many thousands of workers, or hundreds of drones,
owes its existence to this bee ; she is the mother of the entire
colony. Remove a queen from a hive, and after a short period
has elapsed the bees will run about searching for her, not
looking much beyond the actual entrance; but soon they will
settle down, and commence constructing queen-cells over several
young worker larva. These will be fed very plentifully with
a specially prepared food, called by bee-keepers “royal jelly,”
and by this course of feeding will, in the space of sixteen days
from the time the eggs—which otherwise would have pro-
duced workers—were laid, produce virgin queens. You will
note by this that not only is she the mother of workers
and drones, but also that of future queens. As her duties are
simply the reproduction of her species, a bee-keeper will note
the absolute necessity of having young and vigorous queens in
his colonies. Directly the queen’s powers of reproduction begin
to wane, the colony must dwindle, and ultimately—if the queen

12 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING,

be not superseded by the bees, or man—perish. When a virgin
queen issues forth from her cell, very little notice is taken of her
by the workers; she has just to shift for herself. At the end of
three days, weather being propitious, she flies forth from the
hive, many writers say, to meet the drone; but this is very
rarely the case. Her first flight is but a prospecting one;
in fact, she will issue from the hive two or three times in
quick succession on the same day, and will do this in some
instances for several days before fertilisation by the drone takes
lace.

We have just now observed two instances in our own apiary
where the queens have been flying for five days. In one case,
we saw her issue and return four times during one afternoon,
yet were only watching for an hour; perhaps she had made
more flights than even this number. Shortly after fertilisation
takes place—the time varying considerably with different queens—
she commences to lay eggs; these are fastened to the bottom
of the cell, at one end, by a glutinous substance, with which the
egg is coated when voided. Often the first few eggs laid by
the queen produce only drones, and, in exceptional instances,
quite a large number of such eggs are laid; but having
settled fairly to her duties, she will lay in the height of the
season from 2000 to 3000 eggs per day. It has become quite
an accepted fact among the old-fashioned bee-keepers, that the
queen leads the swarm ; this is entirely wrong. She may leave
the hive at any time during the issue of a swarm, oftentimes
one of the last, in some cases refusing to leave at all; the
bees will then return to the hive: or maybe she leaves with
the swarm, and returns again to the hive; in this case the bees
return. Why is this ? Not because she rules them, but, being
the life of the stock, they cannot commence founding a new colony
without her. If they had eggs or larve from which to rear
another queen, very little notice of her leaving the hive would
be taken. Remove a queen from a swarm, and place them in
a hive furnished with eggs and young larvze, the major portion
will stop; but place them in an empty hive without the queen,
and they will return to the parent stock. Hence, a knowledge
that without a mother they perish causes them to follow a
queen, but only when they have no means of rearing another.
In rearing queens in “nuclei” (see “Queen-rearing), one must
keep some uncapped brood in them; the inhabitants will not
then leave with the queen when she takes her wedding flight ;
but if none or only capped brood is there, they, having no
means of rearing a mother, will very likely issue with her. She
will follow them, they will follow her, and thus both will be
lost to you. Equally so is it the queen’s desire not to be
separated from ahive. Suppose, for instance, that in removing
a queen from a hive you let her slip from your fingers; she
takes flight, you think she is gone, and shut up the hive. Do

THE HONEY BEE. 13

not do so; leave the hive open, and stand on one side; she is
almost sure to return in a few minutes,

26. The Drone.—This is a very large and burly-looking
bee. One can easily identify him if we go, about noon, on
a fine sunny day between the end of May and the middle
of July, to a populous colony. Listening, we hear a tremendous
buzzing, and looking at the entrance we see the drones come
forth, and, after a great deal of attention has been paid to
wiping their antennze with their anterior legs and their jaws,
fly away with a regular booming sort of noise; their life is
a life of pleasure, short-lived, it is true. The eyes of the
drone are, in point of form, quite distinct from those of either
the worker or queen, being much larger, and extending to and
quite meeting on top of the head. The thorax and abdomen
are very broad, the latter being fringed with a row of hairs
at the posterior portion. Their jaws are weaker,
and tongue shorter, than the worker ; they also,
like the queen, have no pollen-baskets. They are
stingless. The drone is the male bee, its gene-
rative organs being very similar to those of most
other insects. It is much longer than the worker,
but less than the queen. The queen begins to
lay drone eggs from the commencement of May
until the middle of July: these, having been
hatched. and reared, remain as inmates until their — ye Drone,
services—mating with the queen—are no longer
required; they are then driven forth by the worker bees, and
allowed to perish outside. This takes place from about the
middle to the latter end of July; at this time you will find
quite a heap of dead drones underneath the alighting-boards of
your hives, where they have died, after repeatedly. endeavouring
to gain a shelter from which they have been mercilessly expelled
by the workers. In the case of a bar-frame hive where swarm-
ing has been retarded, the drones will be allowed to live until
late in August.

27. Duties of Drones.—Various surmises have been made
as to the duties of drones in a hive, besides the one important
one—the fertilisation of the queens. Some have supposed that,
being in such large numbers, they were there for the purpose
of increasing the temperature, in order to evaporate the honey
more expeditiously. We have removed all the drones from
a hive, but have never been able to detect any fall in the
temperature. If such is the case, why are not drones raised
always before the bulk of the honey-flow sets in? they will be,
without doubt, if the space of the hive is restricted, in which
case there would be sufficient workers to keep up the temperature ;
but by contracting the hive we induce swarming. Hence the
necessity of the drones to fertilise the virgin queens which will

14 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

be produced at the time of swarming. If they were reared for
the sake of the warmth they are presumed to produce, one
would naturally suppose that they would be allowed to remain
in the hive all through the winter, or, at least, later in the season
than they do. Presuming a hive has swarmed, and turned out
the drones at the usual time, and the same is placed in a field
of buckwheat during August, the bees would, if they required
the drones for increasing the temperature for evaporating pur-
poses, raise others; but they do not. We are strongly of
opinion, that the duties of the drones are to fertilise the
queens, and that only. The bees turn them out in July,
those which swarm early being the first, as a rule, to accomplish
this end; only in the case of a queenless colony—which
usually collects very little honey—are they allowed to remain
for any lengthened period beyond that date. A queenless colony
requires the drones to fertilise the virgin queens, but which queens,
when there are no eggs or larve to rear them from, are never
produced, although the bees’ instincts to preserve the drones
for such an event are stronger than the knowledge of their
condition; but introduce a fertile queen, and they are at once
turned out.

28. The Worker.—This is an undeveloped female. It has
strong jaws, so strong that it can chop up paper, cut linen
tape, gnaw through straw, and, according to A. I. Root, of
Ohio, U.S.A., can gnaw wood; this latter we have never
seen, but, upon the word of such an observant bee-keeper, to
negative it would be impolitic. We have, unfortunately, found
that bass—the material used by gardeners for tying flowers—is
as easily cut through, by their strong jaws as the plastic wax
with which they form their combs. On one occasion, when trans-
ferring a stock, there being no tape obtainable, we used this
material for tying in the combs ; the next morning
all this was gnawed away, the consequence being
that most of the combs dropped out of the frames.
Everyone knows the worker bee who has seen it in
the garden or field, as it flits from flower to
flower, in its eager search for either nectar or pol-
len. The smallest kind of bee in the hive, but
doing the largest ammount of work. It is about 4in,
The Worker, in length, but when filled with honey nearly $in.

It has, as all bee-keepers know, a sting; this sting,
instead of being curved like the queen’s, is quite straight. One
can very easily make the bees expose their stings, by turning
back the quilt of a bar-frame hive, and allow the breath to
enter; instantly a number will unsheath them, each with its tiny
drop of poison near the tip, turning them by a movement of
their bodies upwards. The smell of this poison is quite dis-
cernible, even at a distance, and seems to infuriate other bees,

THE HONEY BEE, 1S

as, when stung on a garment, where the poison evaporates
quickly, and thus gives forth its odour, others, until then
well-disposed, will instantly commence to buzz around, and
insert their weapons where not needed. The worker has
most of the generative organs as in the queen, but in a very
rudimentary form. The compound eyes are set well apart,
the ocelli, or simple eyes (three), being easily discernible,
with a strong magnifying glass, on the forehead, between the
two compound eyes. It has pollen-baskets, one on each of
its two posterior legs, in which it carries pollen and propolis
to the hive. The tongue of the worker is much longer than
either the queen’s or drone’s; hence we see its adaptability
for gathering the nectar from the innermost portions of the
flowers. On the underneath, and under the articulations of
the abdomen, there are receptacles called wax-pockets, in
which, when comb building, the wax is secreted, in the form
of small scales looking not unlike fish scales; these are
removed by the bee, and kneaded by its jaws, assisted by its
anterior legs, into ribbons before forming into comb. It has a
receptacle in the anterior portion of the abdomen, called a
honey-sac, in which the nectar from the flowers is collected, and
transformed, by a chemical action, into honey; it is also there
partially separated from its watery element while the bee is
gathering; this can be easily observed by watching a bee on
the wing voiding the water so abstracted. Although in a
normal condition the worker bee does not breed, there are
exceptional instances where a worker or workers, in a queenless
colony, will partially usurp the queen duties, and lay eggs; but
in every such case these eggs produce drones. They are then
called “fertile workers.” Whether the drones thus produced
are capable of fertilisation is a moot point, and has not yet
been satisfactorily determined.

29. Duties of Workers.—What a multiplicity of employ-
ments! A perfect “Jack of all trades!” All the various and
multifold duties appertaining to the well-being of a colony are
performed by these industrious little labourers. Directly, or
within a few hours of emerging from the cells, work is their
portion, continued without intermission until the time when,
with torn and battered wings, they are cast out as of no more
use. They have worked and worked, living only for work, and
dying only when nature is completely exhausted and worn out.
When a worker egg is laid in the cell by the mother bee, it
hatches in three days; it is then fed, in the larval stage, for seven
days. Having grown to its fullest size, it is capped over by the
bees with a mixture of pollen and wax; this being of a porous
nature, allows the immature insect to obtain the requisite amount
of oxygen to support its existence. At the end of twenty-one days
—twenty days in warm weather—it issues forth, a lightish-coloured,

16 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

downy little creature. It spends the first twelve hours of
Its existence in idleness, but directly after commences to act
the part of nurse to the larve, feeding them with as much
assiduity as one would suppose appertained to an older head;
this employment is continued for about a fortnight. If there is
any comb-building going on, it will take its turn at this; but at
the end of this time it goes forth to collect honey and pollen,
wherewith to nourish its fellows of the hive. By this you will
note how much better it is to examine a colony in the warm
part of the day, if honey is coming in, as then the old bees (the
ones that sting) are foraging in the fields, leaving the youngsters
at home, who are more easily dealt with. By it the honey is
collected and brought into the hive, where it is disgorged into
the cells prepared for it. Pollen is gathered from the stamens
of the flowers by means of the anterior legs and hairs of the
worker’s body; and, while the bee is poised on the wing, it is
removed and transferred to its mouth, and then on to its
posterior legs. When the bee has thus formed two huge, bright,
coloured lumps, it flies back to the hive, and places it in a cell,
there to be properly packed by the other bees, until it is
wanted to feed the numberless immature bees waiting for it.
The worker coliects the propolis in much the same manner, and
carries it into the hive, where it is removed from its legs by the
other bees, and then used to stop up all crevices, or fix any
loose portions of the hive. The worker-bee is the water-carrier,
and keeps the hive well supplied if it is obtainable within a
reasonable distance. Another important duty is performed
by the worker—that of ventilation; watch a hive at mid-
day, and note the vigour with which the several bees at
the entrance fan, with their wings, the cool, refreshing air in;
others in the inside are doing their duty by fanning an equal
quantity of hot, vitiated air out. The removal of all dééris and
filth is another important sanitary occupation which devolves
upon the worker bee; in this, as in all things, its great industry
develops itself. Note a bee struggling with the corpse of a
deceased member, and then flying off with the same, dropping
it some distance away from the hive. All little pieces of comb,
or foreign matter of any description, are laboriously removed
to the outside. The worker-bee stands foremost as the most
wonderful type of an insect-architect and builder, although the
idea that it makes the cells hexagonal, with such geometrical
precision as we see them, is, according to our ideas, a fallacy.
The hexagonal form is produced by the pressure from the
surrounding cells, as, when first commenced, they are circular.
Look at the outermost cells of a comb just commenced;
they are circular at their outside edges; it is only when they
meet the walls of the surrounding cells that the hexagonal
form is produced. A queen-cell is circular; it has no sur-
rounding cells to produce the hexagonal form. The worker-

PRODUCTS OF BEES. i7

bee is the soldier, the policeman—in fact, a perfect vigilance
committee in itself. No robber dare venture to confiscate its
treasure ; if attempted, it is repelled with great energy. The
useless bees of the hive—those who, through some malformation,
are unable to perform their share of the work—are ruthlessly
cast out. Queen-cells, with their larval contents, when not
wanted are cut down and removed. The providing of wax for
comb-building is exclusively the task of the worker-bee, and is
principally performed by the younger members of the community.

IY.—PRODUCTS OF BEES.

30. Honey.—Honey in its crude form—nectar—is the produce
of flowers, and, in some few exceptional instances, notably the
laurels, the leaves of shrubs. In the form of nectar it is met
with in varying quantities in all flowers fertilised by insects,
and is produced by Nature as an inducement for insects to
visit these flowers that they may be, by their instrumentality,
rendered capable of the reproduction of their species. By many
it is supposed that, not only is the nectar produced for this
purpose, but also for nourishing the young seeds in their early
growth. The ground for this supposition lies in the fact that
many flowers produce nectar even after they have been properly
fertilised ; whether such is the case it would be foreign to this
work to endeavour to substgntiate. The nectar in the flowers,
before being gathered by the bees, is of a very thin consistency,
being largely charged with water; this is separated by the bee as
alluded to before ; it is then placed in the cells, and, after being
evaporated by the heat of the hive, is sealed over, and is
then called by bee-keepers, “ripe.” A large proportion of the
honey is fed to the larvee in its unevaporated form, after being
mixed with a certain proportion of pollen (bee-bread). It will be
noticed by this that during the honey season less water is con-
sumed by the bees, on account of the quantity already contained
in the honey ; hence, bees require less water provided for them at
this season, in comparison to the quantity required in early spring,
as then old, evaporated honey, is only obtainable by them.

While hanging thus, the secretion of the wax
takes place in the pockets; it is then removed by

(Enlarged),
c

18 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

the bee’s anterior legs, assisted by a peculiar motion of the body,
and carried thence to the mouth, where it is moulded into
ribbons, and then adjusted to any particular portion of the combs
required. When comb-building is going on, a quantity of these
scales are dropped on the floor-board of the hive; they can then
be examined, and will be found to be in the form of an irregular
pentagon (five-sided figure), not unlike fish-scales, or flakes of
spermaceti.

32. Pollen.—The nitrogenous portion of the bee’s food is called
pollen. This can scarcely be called a product of the bee, as it
is gathered from the stamens of the flowers, and in its original
condition conveyed, on the two posterior legs of the bee, to the
hive. When a bee arrives in the hive with its load of pollen,
it proceeds to a worker-cell, and, placing its legs in the cell, it
scrapes the two pollen balls off, and leaves them there, to be packed
by the other bees ; these cells are very rarely filled with pollen,
a number being partially filled, and honey placed on the top.
We are very much of opinion that such proceedings are essential
for the preservation of the pollen through the winter, as, in the
springtime, where the honey has been consumed from off the
top, it quickly mildews, and forms into a solid, white substance;
which, in the form of hexagonal pellets, are frequently seen cast
out of the hive at this season.

33. Propolis.—This is another material collected—not pro-
duced—by the bees, principally from the buds of resinous trees
and shrubs, such as firs and horse chestnuts, and packed by them
in their pollen-baskets. When taken to the hive, it is removed
by the other bees, and drawn out into thin lines, and then used
to stop up all crevices, affix loose portions of the hive, and cover
over any noxious substance that is too heavy for removal from
the hive, thus forming an hermetically sealed casing. It is
never packed by the bees in their combs as pollen. Although
principally collected from trees and shrubs, the bees will also
remove it from old, disused hives, or varnished materials. We
once saw a hive, which the owner had taken great pains to
varnish, literally covered with bees, who in time removed nearly
every scrap of varnish from off it. Autumn is the chief time
for bees to propolise their hives, no doubt to keep out the severe
weather expected during winter.

V.—COMBsS.

34. Worker-combs.—These are built by the worker bees
entirely of wax, and vary in shape very considerably, in order to
accommodate them to the position they occupy in a hive or
other place. They are constructed of numerous hexagonal cells,
branching out almost horizontally from each side of a midrib,
or septum. The worker-cells are about lin. in diameter, there-

COMBS, 19

fore five of them will occupy an inch of lineal space; by this
we can compute how many larve the combs will accom-
modate, as in each square inch of comb fifty bees can be
reared. The cells are not quite horizontal, but have an upward
tendency, not so perceptible in the brood as
in those cells used for the storage of honey,
although both are used indiscriminately, when
required for either. In an ordinary size (15Sin.)
straw skep, eight of these combs are usually
built ; the measurement from centre to centre
of two combs is 1% in. Their positions in
the hive vary very much according to chance,
being found built in a line with all points of
the compass. There is an idea prevalent that
bees always build their combs at right angles
to the entrance; this will be found to be
erroneous, as, in many thousands of hives
that we have examined, every angle was used,
and in many cases two, and even three,
angles were built to in the same hive. When
worker-comb is used for brood purposes, only
workers are produced in the cells—that is,
if the hive is in a normal condition; but if
a queen is a drone-breeder, drones will be ‘
reared in the same size cells as workers ; Aisnecand: Worker
or if a fertile worker is in the hive, the same ej/s,_ showing the
results will happen. When worker-brood jejatiye Size and
occupy the combs, each cell is capped over, Shape of Cells after
after the feeding of the larve is completed, Capping.

with a mixture of pollen and wax; the appear-

ance of these cells then is entirely different to either honey or
drone comb; the cappings are a shade lighter than the sur-
rounding comb, having a slight convexity of surface, with a
dead colour. They are closely packed together, forming a solid
mass of brood—called the brood-nest—in the middle of the hive,
but more inclined to the bottom and front, and forming almost
a sphere if a line is struck from comb to comb on its outer
edge. When honey is stored in worker-cells, the cappings are
irregularly concave, and have a shining appearance, as against
the dead colour of brood-capping, in consequence of their being
formed of wax only.

35. Drone-comb.—This is exactly similar in shape to worker-
comb, but the cells are much larger, being jin. in diameter ;
thus, four cells occupy an inch of lineal space, and _ thirty-
two drone-cells are contained in a square inch of comb.
When these cells are used for brood, they are capped over with
the same material as those for workers, but entirely different in
shape—each cell is domed over, these domes standing in relief

C2

20 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

from the surface of the combs nearly }in.; thus a provision is
made for the greater length of the inmates.

36. Honeycomb.—Both drone and worker comb are used
indiscriminately by the bees for the purpose of storing honey.
The cells surrounding the brood-nest, on top and on both sides,
are used for honey; but they rarely store it below the nest, in
close contiguity to same. When honey is stored, wax is used
for the cappings. Pollen is also stored in the same cells as honey,
but only in worker-combs. When honey is very plentiful, any
fresh comb made for its accommodation will be usually built
in cells of drone size. The length of honey-cells varies con-
siderably ; instead of being about gin. in depth, as for brood, cells
of less and also greater depth will be found. We on one occasion
saw honey-cells which were 2tin. deep; when such a depth is
attained, the cells will be found to be very irregularly formed.

37. Queen-cells.—These form a portion of the comb at
certain seasons. They are composed of wax and pollen mixed,
and are totally different in shape to any other cells in the
hive. When the bees are about to build queen-cells, they
choose the edge of, or, preferably, a hole in, the comb, and
after an egg has hatched in a worker-cell, in this position, and
been fed a few hours, they construct, by enlarging the side walls,

Worker-comb with Queen-cells commenced, Queen-cell with
before Capping over, and after, showing In- Hinged Cap, after
dentations on Surface. Exit of Queen.

a dome, not unlike an acorn cup; in this is placed a quantity
of food for the larva, which floats, or rather adheres, to this food.
During the course of feeding, the cell is gradually elongated
downwards, and when it is finished it is capped over, looking
then something like a perfect acorn hanging downwards. On
some occasions, as in a colony with no worker larva, the bees
will endeavour to rear a queen from drone larve; in this case,

MODERN BEE-KEEPING. 21

the cell or cells are built in abnormal shapes, and their surface
is smooth, as compared with the indented surface of a normal
queen-cell.

VI.—_MODERN BEE-KEEPING.

38. How to Commence.—Before commencing, the pro-
spective bee-keeper should thoroughly study the art, by reading
some good modern bee publication. Do not read more than one,
as a complexity often mystifies, in order to master which, the
assistance of a friend—an adept in the business—should be
requisitioned. If it should be the summer season, a few lessons
in a good apiary will be of assistance ; these are easily obtain-
able. A visit paid to one or two of the numerous agricultural
or horticultural shows where bee-keeping forms a portion of
the programme, will be time well spent, especially if it is in the
company of a bee-keeper who does not mind giving some
information respecting the exhibits. Having sufficiently mastered
the preliminaries, a hive should be purchased ; now mind, not
two or three, but only one. With this hive go through all the
details of its management—without the bees—until you have
gained a knowledge of all its parts and uses. Then further
purchases can be made, as follows: a stock or swarm of bees;
a fumigator, or smoker—preferably the former; bee-veil. If you
purchase a stock, you will want five sheets of “foundation,” but
if only a swarm, ten will be needed.

39. Purchasing Hives.—In the matter of hives, do not,
on any account, purchase one that has not Association standard
size frames, as another size will only be worth the price of so
much firewood. The whole success of the modern bar-frame
hive rests upon its interchangeability; therefore, if you have
two sizes in your apiary, you might almost as well have all
straw skeps, as their non-interchangeability, on account of the
different sized frames, nullifies the advantages of the modern
system. Let me very strongly emphasise this latter. Do not
purchase any hives that the bees have died in, unless you
know positively that they have been starved, or have died out
from the loss of queen; if they have died from disease, it is
sure to be a contagious one.

40. Purchasing Stocks.—The variety of bees I should
strongly recommend to be purchased are pure Italians, as they
are much less trouble to handle than English, and are a deal
less irritable. If you purchase these from a distance, have
them from some responsible and thoroughly reliable person,
as perhaps only hybrids may be sent, or diseased stocks ; in
the event of the latter, all your prospects of bee-keeping will
be destroyed, as well as nearly all the money you have spent in
necessaries being wasted. In purchasing stocks, be sure that
they are very strong, and endeavour to obtain those with straight

22 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

combs, as, in the event of your wishing to transfer them, they
will be found much the best and cheapest. Those skeps having
sticks thrust across them will usually be found to have crooked
combs.

41. Location.—Choose a good location for the hives to
stand in. A south-east aspect is the best, if you can provide
shade for them during the middle of the day; this is very
essential, unless made with double walls, and painted white
or a very light colour. We are obliged, on account of the
number we keep, to disregard the service of shade, but have
all the hives painted a light stone colour, with white roofs. On
not a single occasion have we had an accident from the heat.
Do not place them close against a wall, but leave a clear
path of at least 3ft. behind, and have the front clear from
grass or weeds. It is a very good plan, in order to make this
clear space in front, to dig out the earth, and fill in with tar
and rubble, sifting some grit sand on the top, to make all neat.
This is of great service to the bees, as, when coming home
heavily laden, the wind will frequently blow them on the ground;
but by having the front clear they can, after resting, easily take
wing again, whereas with damp grass or weeds they get chilled
and perish.

42. When to Commence.—The best time of the year
is about the commencement of April, if you are going to start
with a stock of bees; but if a swarm, you will have to wait
until June; if so, you are very unlikely to get any surplus
honey the same season. The English honey season being so
short, they will only have time to get sufficient for their winter’s
consumption. This does not apply to places where heather
or buckwheat honey is obtainable; nor is it always the case,
as an early swarm in May will give a very good account of
itself if attended to (see par. on “Swarming”). We have, on
several occasions, taken from 2olb. to 3olb. of super honey
from a swarm of the current year. Let me here caution my
readers to be very careful in purchasing stocks during early
autumn, as novices will not infrequently send swarms of that
season, whose combs are so soft and laden with honey that
they will not bear the rough usage incidental to a journey,
and will break down, drowning all the bees ;‘but if such stocks
are very near at hand, no fear need be entertained, if moved
carefully at night.

VII.—APPLIANCES.

43. Bar-frame Hives.—“ What description of hive would
you recommend?” How often this question is asked! The
first thing to be considered is the size of the frames. They
must be Association standard size, for obvious reasons, men-
tioned before. All parts must be made to fit each and every

APPLIANCES, 23

hive. There must be no sorting required—as to which rack
belongs to No. 2, or what dummy-board belongs to No. 8. If
you pick up a portion, it must go into any hive you require it
for. We have illustrated a bar-frame hive in which all the
complications of several on the market are done away with. It is
just a simple affair—can be understood in a few minutes. All
parts are not only interchangeable with other hives, but also with
itself. No extensive winter packing is required, but just enough
thickness to ensure
warmth when snow
lies thick on the
ground. Itcan be
enlarged to any
size—not __longitu-
dinally, as that is
not wanted, but
horizontally; a
good roof, with iG
eaves overlapping, Hi
and water-tight
joints, preventing
that bane to suc- —
cessful wintering,
dampness.

We will now give
a description of this
hive, commencing
with the lower por-
tion: This, as will
be seen in the
illustration, has the
floor-board and
stand in one piece,
and is supported ,
by four short legs.
Upon this is the
body-box, having
double walls at the
sides, and in the
space between the Bar-frame Hive.
walls, not occupied
by the wood blocking, sawdust or other non-conducting substance
is packed. The outer wall is 11in. high and {in. thick, and the
inner one 83in. by 3in. The distance between the two inner
walls is 143in. and between the outer 17in. full, The measure-
ment from back to front is 18in. All the foregoing are
inside measurements; the outside need not be exact but the
inside must be. By having an inner wall on each side of the
hive of a lesser height than the outer, the top edge of the former

Z

CATT ==

‘24 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

forms a rest for the frames to hang upon, as the annexed
sectional illustration shows. The outer wall, being I1in. high,
reaches above the tops of the frames just over 2in.,and thus forms
a space for packing the quilts on the top of the latter. Some
bee-keepers do not care for this space, using the riser to provide
packing accommodation instead, but we prefer it as illustrated. The
frames (see p. 26), ten in number, hang in the hive one behind the
other from front to back, and are kept at a proper distance apart
by distance-keepers called “metal ends,” which fit on to the “lugs”
of the frames. If you will compare the size of a frame with the
dimensions given above for the inside of the body-box you will
find that there is a space of jin. between the sides of the hive
and the end-bars of the frames, and a space of 3in. between
the bottom bar of same and the floor-board of the hive;
this is the “‘bee-space,” allowing the bees access to any
of the combs or to any

r mr part of the hive proper.
q Behind the last frame is
y| a division, sometimes
{| called a “dummy”
| board; this fits the inside
(4 ¥| of the hive, that is, it is
#| 4sin. across and 83in.

deep. It has a top bar
na 4 nailed on as a frame has,
oer and is cleated at both
Sectional View of Body- box of Frame Hive Baas aoe ele
with Frame adjusted. part of the body-box,
from back to front, the
capacity of the latter can be adjusted to suit the requirements
of the bee-keeper. The front wall of the body-box is Zin. shallower
than the back, but is nailed in position flush with the top edges of
the other three walls ; thus an entrance is formed 3in. high right
across the hive at the bottom. Above the entrance is a piece of
wood “rabbeted” for the two slides (A) torun in. The slides are
used for adjusting the size of the entrance. A porch, having a
water gutter along its front edge, keeps the rain from blowing
in the entrance. The alighting board should be broad, reaching
within a short distance of the ground.

The next figure in the illustration (p. 23) above the body-box is
the “riser.” This consists simply of four pieces of 4in. (not
thicker) wood nailed together for the purpose of covering the
supers when on the hive. It is made just a shade larger than
the body-box, so that when the plinths are nailed on the bottom
edges, they just fit over the outside edges of the latter, and
thus make the junction weather-tight. This must fit fairly
loose, so there will be no difficulty in lifting it on or off
during wet weather. Any moisture causes the wood to swell to

APPLIANCES 25

some extent, no matter how well it is painted. The height of
the riser is immaterial, as if made shallow others can be pro-
vided to increase the height We use them from gin. to rin. high,

The illustration shows how the roof is formed. It is made of
in. stuff, and has a ventilating hole at back and front under the
eaves at the top of the ridge; this is covered with wire gauze to
prevent the ingress of insect pests.. The ventilators allow of
the escape of moisture which would otherwise accumulate in the
inside during winter, and so cause dysentery among the bees and
rotting of the quilts. The roof is made ofa size to just loosely fit
over the riser without plinths. There is a “stop” all round the
inside #in. from the bottom edge; this rests on the edge of the riser
when the roof is in position.

All our hives stand upon platforms of creosoted wood. These
platforms consist of two pieces of yellow deal 11in. by 24in. by Iin.,
battened together. There isa great difficulty in getting the boards
creosoted ; in this condition they are practically indestructible,
except by fire ; if they are coated instead with hot gas-tar and then
covered with hot sand they will last for years.

A cheaper form of hive
for cottagers’ use is here
shown. The floor-board,
made of 4$in. pine, rests
upon two battens, 3in. by
4in., placed edgeways and
sloped at the front end
to support the alighting-
board. The body-box is
formed of four pieces of
pine, the front piece being
17in. full by 10%in. ‘by
3in., and the back 17in.
full by 11in. by #in. The
two sides are 173in. by
Ilin. by 4in, and on
three sides there are Cottager’s Bar-frame Hive.
plinths 3in. by in. The — :
inner walls are 16in. by 83in. by 3in. ; the spaces between the
inner and outer walls are not blocked in with wood, but are filled
up with sawdust or chaff. This body-box must be fitted up with
ten frames and a division-board, as in the hive last described.
The riser consists simply of four pieces of wood nailed together ;
the front and back pieces being 183in. by 11in. by 3in., and the
sides 183in. by r1in. by Zin. At gin. from the inside bottom
edge a stop is nailed all round, so as to rest upon the top edge
of the body-box when placed in position. This riser during
winter can be made to cover the body-box, by removing the porch,
which is not a fixture, and inverting the riser over the body-box,
thus adding materially to the comfort of the inmates. The roof is

26 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

made of din stuff, and fits over the riser. This hive will accom-
modate three tiers of section-racks or two of shallow frame supers.
If you desire to add a larger number of supers than this to the hive,
cover the exposed supers with sacks, tie the loose ends tightly
round the riser, and place the roof over all ; although, perhaps,
somewhat unsightly, this arrangement is economical and effective.

44. Dummy-boards.—All dummy-boards to hives should be
prevented from warping by having battens, or end pieces of wood,
nailed on in an opposite direction to the grain of the wood. The
boards are preferably made with cushions on each edge, preventing
sticking, and adapting them to any inequalities of the hive.

45. Quilts.—We are strong advocates of enamel (American)
cloth quilts next the frames, placing them on with the enamel
side down. They are quite a boon, especially with very
irritable bees, removal being comparatively easy—so different
to woven material, which is usually fixed so firmly by the bees that
they become irritated before one can remove it from off the
frames. When using these quilts, it is essential that plenty of
warm coverings be placed above them, and that the stocks be
very strong, or the condensation of the atmosphere will produce
too much dampness. In the matter of quilts one cannot err on
the side of too large a quantity or too great a thickness. Cover
the frames up as thickly at one season as the other; the bees will
appreciate the comfort of a thick covering when the sun’s scorching
rays beat down upon the hive, as they will when the perishing
north-east wind blows furiously through the apiary.

46. Frames.—As before recommended, all frames should be
the Association standard size; the illustration will give you this.
All are outside measurements. The top bar is 2in. thick, the side

bars jin., and the bottom

pS ieee 17 “veeeeeeeeeeee---c> = bar Pin. Shallow frames

extracting purposes ; these
are simply made like
brood-frames, but shal-
lower, 53in. from top to
bottom bar. The object
is that a whole set of these
combs may be placed on
The Association Standard Frame, with a hive without a too
Metal Ends. sudden or great enlarge-
‘ ment, which would be the

case if a set of standard frames were placed on in a like manner.
47. Frame Spacing.—lIt is the custom of many advanced
bee-keepers to space their frames in the hive by the eye,
assisted with the tips of the fingers; this can easily be done
with a little practice, but it is not advisable for beginners to
attempt this. All should use distance-keepers—the distance from

S : ¥ are frequently used for

APPLIANCES, 27

centre to centre of combs should be 1,%in.—of which there are a
great variety on the market. We will therefore enumerate some of
the chief, and recommend those which in practice have been found
most serviceable. To commence, we must note that the most
ancient were pieces of wood tacked on each side of the ends ; or
else they were cut out of the solid wood, to form half-space—the
frames resting on zinc runners in the hive. The next advance (?)
was having the full space blocks on each end of opposite sides
of the bar; this, in our opinion, was a retrograde step, although
it is used at the present time by many ; but their disadvantages
are being gradually found out. At about the same time wire
staples were introduced, and are used in a few hives now,
although these are but a poor contrivance at the best. A great
advance was made by the introduction of solid metal ends
(under this separate heading we will describe various makes of
these). No bee-keeper who has used these will ever revert to the
former contrivances ; the only alteration likely to be made will be
to do without any spacing guides at all.

48. Broad Section-frames.—Broad frames are used for
what is called back supering. They are of a size to take six
44 by 4% sections, as
illustration. The “sepa-
rators” are strips of zinc “4
(No. 6), tacked across |
the two rows of sections.
These frames are grad- HA
ually going out of use :
in England, as all ad- ———

vanced bee-keepers “tier | un

up” their hives instead
of supering laterally, the
former being found to :
be much the better plan. The Broad Frame, with Sections fitted with
The width of frame en- Pe indation:

tirely depends upon that ;

of the sections used, but, as almost all sections are 2in. wide,
this size is the usual one made.

49. Supers.—The varieties are legion. In a box, no matter
of what material made, the bees will store their surplus honey ;
but as this work is intended solely for the advancement of
modern bee-culture, we will confine ourselves to a descrip-
tion of those supers used by advanced apiarists, not only on
account of their simplicity, or ease in management, but also for
their adaptability to the production of honey in the most saleable
forms.

50. Skep Super.—We have until the present given only @
description of bar-frame hives and their adjuncts; but here, as

28 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

the old-fashioned bee-keeping becomes merged into the modern—
a sort of connecting link—vwe illustrate a super adapted to skeps
for the production of comb honey in a form equal to that pro-
duced ina bar-frame hive. For this rack we took First Prize at
the Windsor Show of the Berks Bee-keepers’ Association, 1887.

With a straw skep
having only a hole in
the top, an ordinary
rack of “sections”
(par. 52) could not
be used; therefore,
it has a bottom (not

shown in the en-

{ ay

ee SSF >i

iy

graving), with a hole
to correspond to the
one in the skep. It
also has a roof (R),
to protect the sec-
tions from the
weather. We took
forty-nine lb. sec-
tions from one skep
by means of these

Skep Rack with Roof, for use in Straw Skep. —using two,“ tiered”

up (see paragraph on

“Tiering”). The arrangement of sections in it is precisely
the same as in a rack for a frame-hive.

51. Frame Hive Super.—The accompanying illustration

Sectional Supers on Rack or Crate, with
Fall Over, Spring, Sections, and Separators.

will give a good idea as
to the form adopted ina
super, or, as it is called,
a rack or crate, for a bar-
frame hive. This consists
of a square box without
top or bottom, and of
sufficient size to accom-

. modate twenty-one 1b.

sections (T, T, T) A
space of zin. between the
bottom of the sections
and the top bar of the
frames, for the passage
of the bees, is called the
“bee-space”; if this
space is more "than that
measurement, the bees

will build combs between, and so very firmly fix the sections to the
tops of the frames, and if it is less, they will glue them with

APPLIANCES, 29

propolis—so that a happy medium will result in clean section
bars, and an easy removal from rack. This space is formed by
four bars (6, 4, 4), placed from end to end of the box, exactly
xin. thick ; the ends being spaced by the same thickness of stuff
(¢, ¢, €) being nailed on between each of these bars, the sections
thus rest entirely on these bars by their bottom side edges. If
these sections were placed in the rack side by side, combs would
be built along, across, diagonally—in fact, every way that we
did not wish them so to do. In order to regulate their comb-
building, pieces of foundation (7, 4, f)—a description of which
will be found under heading “ Foundation” (par. 53)—are fastened
to the top bars of the sections ; the comb will be then built to the
exact line that the foundation is laid to. We thus get straight
combs if this is put in straight. But even then the combs would
be built one into the other ; therefore, to prevent this, separators
are used (S). Across and between each row of sections a strip
of thin (No. 6) zinc, called a separator or divider, is placed.
The bees work at the combs until they have approached these
sufficiently near as to allow of only one bee-space between
the separator and comb; the section is then capped, and so
finished off with a flat surface. In order to keep these sections
close together, an oblong piece of wood, called a follower
(R), is placed across the last row of sections, which is kept
in its place by one or more springs (9), fitted into a small
block of wood. One of these, in the centre, we find quite
sufficient.

51*.—Shallow Frame Supers.—A great advance has re-
cently been made by the introduction of shallow frame supers,
used exclusively in the production of extracted honey. This super
consists of a shallow box, in which fit either eight or ten shallow
frames; the frames are of exactly the same shape and make as
those in the body-box, but are only 53in. deep, consequently the
box to contain them must be 53in. deep, so as to allow of a bee-
space between the tops of the frames in the body-box and the
bottoms of those in the super. The frames are spaced by means
of metal ends, but either of two sizes of these ends can be used,
viz, “wide” or “ordinary,” according as the bee-keeper desires
thick or ordinary combs. When using a super of this description
it is imperative that an “excluder” be provided.

52. Sections.—Quite a number of individuals have laid
claim to having first ‘ .

originated these; it will

be sufficient for our pur- | =] 5
pose to inquire into the

present manufacture. F F F

They are made entirely by Onassteia Beaton Uapolited:

Canadian and American ch
firms, for the simple reason that wood of the description most

30 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

suited is not obtainable in the British Isles; therefore, all
sections of any worth are imported from Canada and the
United States. The best are made in one piece, having
a V cut (F, F, F) where each fold is to take place, the two
ends being square-dovetailed ; when, by simply—having first
wetted the reverse side of the VY cut—bringing the two dove-
tailed ends together, it forms a small box without top. or
bottom. The top and bottom bars are made narrower than
the sides (N,N). This is to form a pas-
sage, when the sections are placed close
together, for the bees to enter from the
hive below. In the autumn of 1886, four-
bee-way sections were introduced, as
it was presumed that the bees, having
passage-ways all round the comb, it
would be easier for them to pass from
one comb to another, and finish them
off quicker and more perfectly ; it has
these advantages, but in a very minor
form. We used them with advantage

Fae Nee ee during 1887, but we should not advise

any bee-keeper to go to the expense
of altering his plant to suit them. When such -sections are
used, the separators have to have a slot cut in them, just
at the point where the side passages occur.

53. Foundation.—This, although but recently used in any
very large quantities, was invented as far back as 1857, by a
German, and further perfected in America, notably by A. I. Root,
of Ohio. It consists of sheets of beeswax, impressed by means
of a machine with the shape of the base of the natural cells.
The machine is made with two rollers, in a framework having
gearing for raising or depressing the upper one. The wax sheet,
after being warmed to render it more plastic, is placed between
these rolls, which are moulded so as to give the required form,
and, after being subjected to the necessary pressure, receives this
impression. It is one of the most valuable adjuncts to modern
bee-keeping ; without it, honey in the form and quantity in which
we see it would be unknown. The wax of which this is made
must be absolutely pure beeswax. The price of such wax having,
on account of the large demand for same, risen so considerably
lately, and the price of foundation declined, has given rise to a
considerable amount of adulteration with some descriptions of
earth, wax, and fats. Beeswax melts at a temperature of 146°
Fahr., while the melting point of other wax and fats is much
lower. This adulterated foundation will not stand the internal
heat of the hive, and so sags, or breaks down; in which case it
is most likely to destroy all or most of the bees in the hive,
drowning them in the honey which has been stored in the combs.

APPLIANCES. 31

The bees will work out adulterated foundation almost as readily
as pure. There is no doubt that bee-keepers are bringing this
‘condition of things upon themselves. Many will have their
foundation of a high colour in the case of stock, and perfectly
white in that of super; they seem to forget the fact that perfectly
white beeswax cannot possibly be obtained without subjecting
ordinary coloured wax to a chemical change. The least deleterious
method of doing this is by exposure to sunlight; but this entails
so much labour, that it cannot be produced at the price charged
for the foundation. The wax has to be made into thin sheets,
exposed to the light for two days, then re-melted, made up again
into thin sheets, again exposed to the light, and then melted into
blocks. In consequence of the expense attending this process,
other wax, or a mixture of chemically bleached beeswax with
paraffin wax is used. Some super foundation we have tested had a
strong odour of tallow. This was made from Cera japonica without
a particle of beeswax in its composition, and was exhibited at
a very large show as pure. As this wax
is eaten with the honey from sections, bee-
keepers cannot be too particular that they
obtain the genuine, unpolluted article, which,
as foundation, is never white. In the case
of stock foundation the same system occurs,
bad-coloured wax being bleached, re-coloured,
and scented, to make up for the loss of
aroma in the bleaching process. Chlorine will
bleach wax, but it makes it very brittle. The
following rough method of testing wax by its
specific gravity will be found of service. Take
a 60z. vial, and half fill it with gin; then obtain
a piece of beeswax that you know is pure, and,
after kneading it into a ball about as large as
a pea, drop it in the gin; it will sink to the
bottom, as a stone; gradually add water to the
gin, keeping it agitated while so doing, until
the wax very slowly sinks. It is now ready.
Take a portion of the foundation to be examined,
and knead it into a ball of the same size as
the first piece, taking great care that no air
becomes embedded ; drop this into the bottle ; Appliance for
if it sinks in the same manner as the first piece Testing Spurious
put in, it is pure ; but if it floats, it is not, as Wax,

its specific gravity is lighter than pure wax.

You must wait, before testing, until both pieces are of the same
temperature. Another and more satisfactory method is by
testing its melting-point ; this is performed by the following
means: Having procured a thermometer that will register
200° Fahr., get a canned salmon or lobster tin, and remove
both top and bottom; make some holes round the edge; in

32 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

this tin place a small lamp. Next obtain an empty condensed
milk tin, and half fill it with water; light the lamp, and place
this on top. Now melt a small portion of the wax to be
tested, and draw it into a capillary tube (a small glass tube,
which can be obtained at any instrument maker’s for a nominal
sum); when cool, stop up each end, and tie it to the bulb of
the thermometer; place them in the water, and wait until it
registers about 135° Fahr., then watch the capillary tube. The
very instant the wax turns transparent, and darkens, note what
the thermometer registers, as that will be the melting-point.
If pure, it ought not to register lower than 146° Fahr.; you
must not be particular to one degree with such rough appliances.
There are several makes or patterns of foundation, namely:
Stock, super, natural base, flat-bottom, drone-size, and thick-wall.
With the exception of flat-bottom, the septum or mid-rib of all is
exactly the same shape as the bees naturally fashion their cells,
but the flat-bottom, being simply a sheet of wax having the shape
(hexagonal) of the edges of the comb-cells slightly raised on its
surface, the septum is perfectly flat, ze. quite unnatural. This
latter make affears much thinner than the “natural base.” The
makers claim that the bees thin it out more perfectly than they do
the “natural base.” This is not so. The foundation looks better for
sale ; that is the only advantage, and a very questionable one to
the bee-keeper. Super foundation is made of better-coloured wax,
also thinner, than stock, as it is used only in the sectional supers,
while stock is kept entirely for the body-box and shallow frame
supers. The foundation we advise for use is the “natural base,”
both for the body-box and the supers. Sectional supers should be
fitted up with thinner foundation, that is, super foundation, which
on no account should be made of white wax (usually adulterated),
but of yellow, with plenty of honey-like aroma to it. When held
up to the light it should be very clear ; if ithas a granular appear-
ance, after warming, there is almost sure to be an adulterant
present. Foundation over twelve months old is exceedingly
britle and hard. This can easily be remedied by thoroughly
warming it either before a fire, or, better, by immersing it in water
heated to a temperature of from 1oodeg. to 1o5deg. Fahr.

54, Subjugators.—To beginners well knowing the natural
irritability of these insects, the most astonishing part of modern
bee-keeping is the ease with which an expert handles his
charges; removing combs from the hives covered with bees,
taking up handfuls from skeps with bare hands, causing them to
perform an exodus from their hive into an empty one placed
near. It would be of no use trying thus to get the bees under
command unless means had been devised for reducing them into
a state of subjection. In order to accomplish this, the bees must
be frightened. Now, to frighten or intimidate a bee requires a
different course of procedure to the ordinary method of subjugating

APPLIANCES. 33

members of the animal kingdom. It was discovered that, when
smoke was blown into a hive, the bees were thrown into a state
of great commotion, and with evident trepidation commenced
filling their honey sacs from the open cells; in this condition of
demoralisation and surfeit they were comparatively harmless.
When this discovery was made we know not; but, no doubt,
it was centuries ago, as the natives of Central Africa, who Jive on
the banks of the Congo, and are great bee-keepers, use smoke
when they take the surplus honey (Johnstone). The natives of
India do the same. This being so, an appliance was introduced
called a “smoker,” which consists of a tin cylinder mounted on, and
connected with, a bellows ; the cylinder, on being filled with fuel,
such as cotton, rotten wood, or brown paper, was lit, and by means
of the bellows kept alight, at the same time sending forth a
volume of smoke from the nozzle. The great difficulty to contend
with was the fact of its “going out,” perhaps just as the apiarist
was in the middle of some manipulation, and required its services.
To leave the bees while he re-lit the smoker, meant their
endeavouring to subjugate him, instead of him them ; again, after
a smoker has been used a short time, a nasty black fluid runs from
it, and will, unless great care is taken, soil the combs, hives, or
sections. It has to be frequently filled with fuel, and is very
cumbersome. There is also the danger of setting fire to the hives
or combs, which is not infrequently done. Knowing these
disadvantages we devised another appliance, called a “ fumigator,”
although this is scarcely a correct term to apply to an instrument
in connection with which no fire is used or smoke produced.

The Smoker. Webster's Fumigator.

This is a zinc cylinder mounted upon, and in direct communi-
cation with, a bellows. At one end of this cylinder is an inverted
cone, from the lowest part of which a nozzle protrudes ; covering
over the hole at the back of this nozzle is a shield, to prevent
anything but air or vapour being blown through; the other end
of this cylinder has a cover, the inside of which is furnished with
four hooks holding a piece of sponge. The sponge is saturated
with carbolic acid, creasote, and water. At the back of this
sponge, a piece of carbonate (the common hard, or crystal form)
of ammonia is placed; when so prepared, the fumigator is ready
for use, and will last, according to the amount of work, for weeks

D

34 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

or months, without any further trouble. It is more effective
than a smoker, without any of its trouble or mess.

55. Webster’s Subjugator.—This is a liquid which is
sprinkled upon pieces of washed calico, and kept in an ordinary
4lb. mustard tin to conserve the odour. In use, a piece of this
scented calico is laid upon the tops of the frames for a few seconds,
or until the bees are thrown into a state of commotion, which can
be known by their loud buzzing; it is then removed, and the
colony manipulated. Any return of organisation can be thwarted
by applying the calico again.

55*, Apifuge.—This is a liquid used for scenting the hands,
and, to some extent, prevents the bees from stinging them.

56. Honey Extractors.— These are appliances used for
the purpose of extracting the honey from the combs without
any Injury that would impair their future utility in being re-filled
by the bees with honey. A tin cylinder,
having a treacle valve at the bottom, is
furnished with a rod, or pivot, having one
end fitted in a centre at the bottom, and
the other carried in a cross-bar, which is
screwed on the top of the same. A
square cage is fitted upon this rod, having
very thin, woven wire, this wire being
prevented from bulging by strips of tin
placed edgeways against it, acting as
battens. The combs, after being un-
capped—the cell coverings removed—are
Wes placed in this cage, it accommodating
two, when, by rapidly turning the handle
connected with the cage, the contents
(honey) of the comb are thrown out into
the cylinder by the centrifugal motion
imparted thereto. There is another make
of extractor, called the “ Little Wonder,”
in which the comb-holder is fitted on a long rod, to which the
necessary rotary motion is given by the hand, one end of the rod,
or spindle, being fixed in the ground by a spike, and the other
grasped by the hand. This is not of much service, especially
as cylinder extractors can be purchased for a very little more

money. The best cylinder extractor is one invented by Mr. Raynor,
and bearing his name.

57. Wax Extractors.— The trouble and inconvenience
experienced by bee-keepers in the separation of wax from
the dross contained in the combs, brought forth the inventive
genius of a Swiss gentleman named Gerster, who produced
an appliance called the “ Gerster Wax Extractor.” This is, almost

The Raynor Honey Ex-
tractor,

APPLIANCES. 35

in its original form, the wax extractor of to-day. By the old-
fashioned method, all dark comb had to be melted separately
from the light, as the process of boiling dyed the wax with
the dross ; but by using the wax extractor, we obtain an almost
uniform colour, no matter whether clean or dirty combs are
placed in it for extraction. The engraving will give a clear idea
as to its principles. A
boiler like a saucepan is
surmounted with a tin
cylinder, at the bottom of
which is a stationary dish,
connected with the outside
by a spout ; resting upon
short legs in this dish is
a perforated zinc or tin
basket, having a tube of
the same material in the
centre ; a lid covers all.
The comb is placed in
this basket, and the
boilerabout half filledwith _.
water; upon the whole
being placed on a brisk Improved Gerster Wax Extractor.

fire the steam surrounds

the basket and also passes up the tube, thus thoroughly heating
the combs; the wax in them melts, and percolating through
the basket falls into the dish below, and thence runs out of
the spout into some receptacle placed under to catch it. In this
receptacle some hot water is placed; any little dirt that may
run out with the wax settles at the bottom, and is easily removed
when cold. This is rather an expensive appliance, and only
suitable to those making some considerable quantity of wax. A
cheaper extractor, the invention of Mr.
Redshaw, was some two years ago intro-
duced ; it is formed of two tin basins, fitting
one in the other, the upper one having a per-
forated zinc bottom ; the whole is placed in
the oven, water being in the underneath one ;
the wax melts, and runs through the bottom
of the top basin, and is caught by the under-
neath one. This can be purchased for 2s, 3d.
Another, called the “ Killick Wax Extractor,”
is very similar in its method of working to
the above one, but will not hold more than
sufficient comb at one melting—which takes
about three-quarters of an hour—to produce
60z. or 80z. of wax. Both these are very suitable for a small
apiary of from one to four hives

Redshaw's Wax
Extractor.

D2

36 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

58. Queen and Drone-excluder.—This is sheet zinc per-
forated with oblong holes of a size that workers can pass through,
but not large enough for queens or drones—in fact, a bee sieve.
It is rapidly getting into disfavour, as it is found very materially
to impede the workers’ passage into the sections or supers. The
object of using it is that the queen may not deposit her
eggs in the supers. Where very
large supers (non-sectional) are
used, or where back-supering is
practised, it is imperative that it
should be used. In the first place,
if a queen should happen to ascend
into a large super (non-sectional) it

Queen-excluder for Body-box. is spoilt, but in a section-rack the

section or sections spoilt can be
easily removed and the portion visited by the queen cut out, the
section being then returned again to the hive to be repaired. Our
advice is not to use it under sections. Where it is obliged to
be used, always place it with the burr side turned towards the
entrance ; the holes being punched, there is, in consequence, a
burr on one side, which acts as a trap for any bees dying in the
super if the zinc is not placed on properly, the removal of them
being prevented by their articulations catching in this burr.

59. Feeders.—There are so many descriptions of bee-
feeders now before the bee-keeping public, that a description
of all would be a task of some magnitude; we will, therefore,
choose two which have been found to be all that can be desired.
First is the regulating bottle-feeder. This should be in the
hands of every bee-keeper, as by
its means a hive can be fed as
slowly and almost as quickly as
desired. It consists of a stage, made
in two parts, having a hole about
2kin. in diameter in each; between
these a zinc diaphragm is placed,
having a slot cut half way round,
and corresponding with several
small holes in a metal cap covering
the mouth of an inverted bottle;
attached to this cap is an index.
The stage is numbered from 0 to 9. ; :

When if is desired to feed slowly, Reginlitine: Poexieenet

this index is pointed at No. 1; this allows only one of the holes
in the metal cap to be exposed; by turning it to No. 9, nine holes
are uncovered ; or by shifting it to 0, feeding is stopped. With
this feeder it is impossible for the bees to be able to sting you.
When it is desired—as in the case of condemned bees placed

APPLIANCES, 37

upon empty combs—to feed them very quickly, a different feeder
is used. It is a wood box
with a lid. The box should
be coated with wax (cheap
paraffin wax will do); the
diagram will fully explain
its construction. The bees,
upon the box being placed
over a hole in the quilt,
pass up in the direction of 5&
the arrows, and obtain the
syrup as quickly as they
deem fit ; they are prevented from getting into the box, and
so drowning, by the cover (Cc, C).

UX

Sectional View of Fast Feeder.

60. Veils.—It is advisable for all bee-keepers to wear veils,
not only on account of the unpleasantness of being stung in a
tender part of the face, but also to prevent the bees crawling
over it while both hands are engaged; the titillation produced by
this will often cause a sudden movement to be made, which
irritates the bees. We have sometimes had them persist in
crawling backwards and forwards over the eyes; this is not at
all conducive to a calm demeanour in manipulating, which is a
sine gud non. The best veils are those with wire fronts, as this
prevents the veil being blown against the face—a bee usually
chooses this place to sting. For ordinary use, a veil made of
black net, with a band of elastic run in at one end, by which it
is fitted round the crown of a hat, will be found sufficient. The
loose end should be carefully tucked inside the collar of the
coat, to prevent the bees getting inside. All veils, whether they
be wire or net, should be black, as the light being reflected
from white net prevents a clear vision.

61. Gloves.—These should never be worn, but the wrists of
the coat should be fastened with an indiarubber band, to prevent
the bees exploring up them, which they are sure to do. Where
gloves are worn, two pairs of wool, wetted, having gauntlets on
the outside pair, will be found very effectual; kid or single
leather gloves are of no use. A glove has been manufactured of
lambskin, the fleece being left on. This very effectually prevents
the stings puncturing the leather; but all are a nuisance, on
account of the clumsiness it occasions when manipulating, and
so irritation of the bees. The best gloves are those made of
indiarubber, although rather expensive and very perishable. They
are made of a sort of macintosh material, although we have
seen some made from pure rubber. American cloth has been
used for making bee-gloves ; but as we have heard little of them,
they no doubt do not answer.

38 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

62. Dresses for Ladies.—These are an absolute necessity.
A thin muslin or calico bag is made, having two holes, with
elastic bands, the feet to pass through the holes, and the bands to
fix round the ankles, the outside edge being looped up outside
the dress or petticoats.

63. Wire-embedder.—This little instrument
is one of the most useful that has been invented
during the last two or three years. It is used for
the purpose of embedding wire into foundation,
particulars of which will be found further on. Being
the invention of a Swiss gentleman named Woiblet,
it is called “ The Woiblet Spur Embedder.” Every
apiarist should have one.

64. Foundation Fixer.—There are two or
three on the market; but we have always found
that the handle of a table knife does the work as
quickly and, with a little practice, as well. The illus-
tration below represents one of the best. The section
is placed, together with the wax “starter,” between
the jaws, the slot in lower one acting as a gauge, Wovsb/etSpur
that the foundation may be fixed exactly in the Embedder.
centre; the jaws are squeezed together by raising

the end of the upper one,

the lower being screwed to a

table, the foundation being

mashed into the wood by

a draw-back motion of the

des, : handle of the machine, allowed

fm for by the peculiar hinges at

: — the sides; the “starter”—

Foundation Fixer. ze. the little triangular piece

of foundation—is then turned at right angles to the section
with the fingers.

65. Frame Stands.—It is quite a bother sometimes in
the apiary to know where to temporarily rest a frame of comb
and bees after removal from a hive; especially so is it when your
hives are not made larger than will hold the necessary number
of them. If you rest it on the grass, by the side of the hive,
quite a number of the bees are left on the ground—maybe the
queen. It will, therefore, be found very handy to have a frame
stand, which can be made by any novice in carpentering; in
fact, a box of the exact width of the hive will do nicely, and
will also be useful for carrying combs from the hives into the
house when extracting, if provided with a lid. A comb stand
is sold to hang on the side of the hive, but it has the same
disadvantage as resting by the side of same—the queen is apt
to drop on the ground.

APPLIANCES. 39

66. Super-Clearer.—This appliance is one of the most
important helps to the apiarist. We had the honour some four
years ago of introducing it to the bee-keepers of this country, and
at the present day it can be found in use in every well-ordered
apiary. It consists of a flat board the same size as the bottom of
a super; upon each side is a bee-space (6446 in the annexed
illustration), and in the centre is a trap formed of wire gauze (@),

a4 aye be
Z Le Vay, ae Ze ELI
4 Co

Section View of Webster’s Super-Clearer.
a, Wire Cloth Tubular Escape; 6b, Bee Spaces.

which allows the bees to pass through one way, but effectually
prevents their returning. When it is desired to remove a super,
the “clearer” is quietly slipped underneath it, and allowed to
remain in this position for from six to twelve hours; at the
expiration of this time the super will be found quite clear of bees,
and thus can be removed without the remotest chance of the
manipulator getting a sting.

67. Travelling Cages.—Bee-keeping, at the present time,
has assumed such extensive proportions, that whereas, a few years
ago, no one thought of sending bees any distance by rail or other-
wise, now they are sent hundreds and even thousands of miles.
Hives of bees have
been sent to Aus-

at wa Ue

give a description :
of the cage used
for queens. An
oblong block of
ane pi ae Travelling Box for Queen.

cured; into this are ;
bored, almost through, two holes with a {in. centre-bit, at
the extremity two smaller ones are made contiguous to each
other ; the division thus formed is cut away with a sharp knife, this
forms along narrow hole across the end of the block. At the
bottom of each division between these three holes a tunnel is cut,
thus connecting all three together. In the narrow hole food is
placed and covered over by a piece of thin wax to prevent its
evaporating. This food is made by mixing finely powdered loaf
sugar with honey until it is about the consistency of putty. It is

40 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

called “Good Candy.” Along each side of this block three longi-
tudinal grooves are made, and in these grooves, at each side of
the hole furthest away from the food, six small holes are bored
through in to this hole for the purpose of ventilation. A thin wood
lid covers all. When a queen and about half-a-dozen workers are
placed in they can obtain a varying temperature according to the
changes outside; thus, if the weather is cold, they can cluster in
the hole without the ventilators, or, on the contrary, can go into the
one with plenty of ventilation, the food being placed nearest the
warm chamber is easy of access in each instance. Queens thus
packed will live a very considerable time without injury ; we have
one now that has been in the box a fortnight. Swarms are best
packed in a box having large holes at least 6in. square (larger
if the box is very crowded), on each side, covered with perfor-
ated zinc. Driven bees must be packed in the same description
of cages aS swarms.

68. Frame Ends.—At one time the varieties of these were
legion, but at the present time no end can bear comparison in any
way with that known as the “W.B.C.” This is an end made of
sheet tin, stamped and folded by machinery. Though answering
the purposes, in the most effective manner, for which a metal end
is so necessary, yet, owing to the ingenious way in which it is
manufactured, it weighs less than if the ends of the frames were
made of wood.

69. Bee-Houses.—These are generally very awkward
contrivances and a great nuisance. No doubt if a very con-
siderable expenditure was made, a bee-house could be built
with advantage to the bee-keeper, and also to the bees; but
unless a house is made of sufficient height and size for the
bee-keeper to stand upright and have plenty of elbow-room in,
it had better be left undone. Much better to have your hives in
the open, where they can be manipulated with ease and comfort.

VITI.—FOOD.

IT will be found very essential, at certain times and seasons,
to feed the bees with artificial foods, a description of which
and recipes for making are therefore of great importance. Any
sugar food that may be burnt must on no account be given to
the bees.

70. Syrup.—Sugar is provided in this form to the bees
that it may be used directly as a substitute for honey, and will
be found equally as valuable to them. During autumn the
syrup to be fed must be of a much thicker consistency than
at any other time ; the reason for this is that by giving it to

FOOD. 41

them in a more condensed form, less evaporation is necessary,
it having to be brought toa certain consistency before the bees
will seal it over. They will also labour under considerable
disadvantage in doing so at this season, the temperature being
much lower than at the time of honey gathering, so that, in
order to keep up the necessary warmth, their physical capa-
bilities are impaired, which at this time ought to be of the
strongest that they may survive the rigours of the winter.

71. Recipe for Syrup in Autumn.—Take 5lb. of the
best loaf or granulated sugar, and place it in a preserving pan ;
add to this 23 pints of water, put the pan upon the fire, and
stir. As soon as the sugar is quite dissolved, the syrup is done.
No boiling is required, as this frequently causes the syrup to
crystalise.

72. Recipe for Syrup in Spring.—To every pound of
loaf or granulated sugar add ? pint of water, and treat as above.

Both the above syrups can also be made by pouring boiling
water upon the sugar and stirring until dissolved.

73. Medicated Syrup and Candy.—Procure some naph-
thol beta (8 Naphthol) from the chemist, dissolve this in
spirits of wine (about a tablespoonful to a scruple is sufficient)
by agitating it in a bottle. While the syrup is still hot, stir the
solution in at the rate of 1 drachm naphthol beta (apothecaries’
weight) to 2olb. of sugar. Candy is medicated in the same
manner and in the same proportion.

74, Dry Sugar.—This is sometimes used in place of candy.
Porto Rico is the description to use.

75. Candy.—The present make of candy, quite different from
the barley sugar sort of old, has almost supplemented dry-
sugar feeding. This food, if carefully made as we describe
in every particular, will be found to be a very fine-grained
mass of sugar, far superior to raw sugar, and one
upon which the bees will feed ravenously. When cold
it must be so soft as to be readily scraped with the finger-nail,
and if a piece is placed in the mouth it should dissolve
almost instantly; these conditions must be arrived at if
it is to be of the greatest service to the apiarist and his
bees. The recipe is as follows: Put into a preserving-pan of
either copper or enamel ware (copper is better) Iolb. of granulated
sugar and a teaspoonful of cream of tartar, and upon this
pour 12 pints of cold water; put the pan upon a brisk fire and
stir occasionally to prevent burning. When the sugar commences
to froth up, watch that it does not froth over the sides of the
pan: if there is a likelihood of its doing so, remove it from the
fire for a few seconds, then replace it. Presently it will

42 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

commence to boil violently with a crackling sort of noise but
will cease to froth up. Keep it thus boiling for exactly
three minutes, then remove it trom the fire. Now procure a
bath of sufficient size to accommodate the preserving - pan
within it; into this put sufficient cold water so that when the
pan with its boiling contents is put into the water, the latter
will not overflow into the sugar. Having put the pan into the
cold water, leave it thus while you place some pieces of clean
white paper on some plates or dishes upon which to run the
candy into cakes. Return to the hot sugar and with a spatula
quickly stir it. Continue to do this without intermission until
it commences to change colour from transparent to cloudiness,
which gradually increases, until the whole mass assumes the
appearance of very thick gruel; then pour it into the plates.
It will be sufficiently cool to give to the bees in about half
an hour. flour candy is simply made by stirring into the
above candy when hot half of a Id. packet of pea-flour to every
5lb. of sugar.

76. Artificial Pollen.—Artificial pollen is flour made from
peas, wheat, or rye; preference is given to pea-flour.

77. Water.—This is a very important food to be provided
for the bees, especially in spring. It is placed in vessels so
formed that the bees can drink without any danger of drowning.
Pieces of cork form convenient floats for the bees to stand on.
A small quantity of salt sprinkled in is of great benefit, and
ought not to be neglected.

IX.—S WARMING.

78. Natural Swarming.—Swarming is the bee’s natural
mode of procedure for the reproduction of colonies. At a certain
season of the year, usually from May to July, the hive having
become too crowded, the queen lays drone eggs. When a number
of these have been produced, the bees commence forming a
variable number of queen cells; most frequently when the first
of these is sealed over, the weather being propitious, the major
portion of the population, together with the old queen, issue
forth from the hive, and, after circling in the air for some time,
settle in a compact mass upon some adjacent position, usually
on the branch or branches of some low tree or bush; this mass
of bees is called a swarm. After remaining in this position for
an uncertain period, they, if not secured by the bee-keeper, fly
to another place, perhaps some miles away, and there, if a
suitable place is found, construct combs, gather honey, rear
brood, and go through the same routine as has been before done
in the original community ; when they have so furnished their
home they are called a stock. This description of swarming is

SWARMING. 43

very troublesome to the bee-keeper, not only as to its uncertainty as
to the time it will take place, but also as to the position they will
occupy when they have settled, perhaps in a most inaccesible
place; the swarm by such proceedings being frequently lost.
Again, where a few colonies only are kept, it does not answer
the bee-keeper’s purpose to watch, or employ some one to do so,
for the exodus of a swarm; and yet, by neglecting to do so,
the swarm may be lost. Natural swarming being of such an
‘uncertain character, modern bee-keepers devised a method
whereby the ‘bees were made to give a swarm just at their
pleasure or convenience; this is called artificial swarming.

79. Artificial Swarming.—One of the simplest methods
to form an artificial swarm from skeps is thus conducted. The
bee-keeper is supposed, for example, to be the owner of two
skeps, both of which—this is imperative—are in a condition for
natural swarming, or at least one is, and the other well crowded
with bees. On a fine, warm, and bright mid-day, the skep which
we shall call No. 1 is driven (see “ Driving,” par. 90); when nearly
all the bees and the queen have left No. 1, and gone into the
empty skep, which will be called No. 3, No. 3 is placed in the
original position occupied by No.1. The other skep, which until
now has not been interfered with, will be called No. 2; this must
now be placed on a stand some little distance away, and No. 1
put in No. 2’s original position. After a time, all the bees
that were flying from No.1 at the time of driving will have
joined the cluster in No. 3; this is the swarm. The combs
and brood of No. 1 having been placed on the stand of No. 2, all
the bees that were flying from No. 2 at the time of moving
it will return to No. 1, it being in the position only known as
their home to such bees ; they will rear the brood, and also another
queen. No. 2 will have thus given a portion of its population
to No. 1. It is upon these lines, with slight variation, that
artificial swarming is usually conducted. It is far preferable to
natural swarming, inasmuch as no risk is run of losing the
swarm, there is very little likelihood of a second swarm, and
the bees are kept continually at work, which is a very important
gain, as frequently, when allowed to swarm naturally, much
time is wasted before all the conditions are exactly suitable
for swarming. During this time of waiting very little work
is done, the greater portion of the colony hanging outside
the hive in a huge cluster, idling their time away. By these
means a swarm can be obtained for sale, or otherwise, just
on the very day the bee-keeper requires it. Swarming from
bar-frame hives is conducted much on the same_ principle,
but it is managed with greater ease and certainty. By many it
is called “dividing,” and no doubt that is the most correct term
to use

44 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

80. Dividing one Colony, in a Bar-frame Hive,
into Two.—lIf one colony is wished to be divided, we go to
the hive and shift it to another position, not less than two
yards away, then place a fresh hive in the position vacated by
this stock. Next remove three frames of brood bees and queen
from the stock into the empty hive, and fill up with three
frames of foundation, alternating them with the full combs;
also replace the frames removed from stock with fresh ones
of foundation or empty combs. If a fertile queen can be given
to this stock, much time and honey will be saved.

81. Dividing Two Colonies into Three. — Remove
half the number of frames of brood from one hive (No. 1),
but brush or shake the bees back into it; then place
these combs in a fresh hive (No. 3). Now remove another
strong stock (No. 2) to a fresh stand, and place the new hive
(No. 3) in the position vacated by No. 2. Thus No. 1 provides
brood; No. 2, bees; and No. 3 receives the bees flying from
No. 2, and will rear a fresh queen, and hatch the brood given
to it. A queen can be given to No. 3 in about seven or eight
hours (see “Queen Introduction”). The hive (No. 1) from
which the frames were removed, must have them replaced with
sheets of foundation, and No. 3 must have three sheets given
them, to be increased gradually to the full complement as the
first ones placed in are gradually drawn out. Empty combs are
much better than sheets of foundation.

82. Forming a Colony from an Indefinite Number
of Others.—Remove a frame with queen and bees from a colony,
and a frame, without bees, from each of the other colonies until
the required number (six or seven) is obtained ; then place this fresh
hive in the position occupied by a very strong stock.

All these manipulations must be performed on a very fine
day when the bees are flying freely, between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m.,
not after or before such times, and during the swarming
season; the hives must also be thickly populated. Unless all
these conditions are observed, failure is certain.

83. Hiving Natural Swarm.— When the bees have
clustered in a compact mass on a branch, a perfectly clean skep
should be held under them; then shake the whole mass into it,
and turn it right way up upon the ground. Yor a few seconds
all is quiet, then a loud hum is heard as the bees run up into
the dome-shaped roof. It is the best plan to place the floor-
board of the hive upon the ground, and turn the skep upon this.
If the queen has not been shaken in with the cluster, they will,
in a few minutes, vacate the hive and join the queen in the
position occupied by her. If the queen is inside the skep, the
bees outside will gradually converge towards it, and quickly

SWARMING. 45

enter. By these motions of the bees will a knowledge of the
position of the queen be obtained. As soon as the bees have
settled down quietly, which will be in about from ten to twenty
minutes, the hive and its contents should be removed to the posi-
tion it is permanently to occupy. Bees do not always cluster in such
convenient places as the outstretched branch of a tree, and often
the ingenuity of the bee-keeper is severely tested, in order to
devise some means of obtaining possession of them. The middle
of a quickset hedge is a favourite position ; they can be dislodged
from here by placing on top of the hedge, and directly over the
cluster, a clean skep; then dip some large feathers (goose wing)
or sticks in a weak solution of carbolic acid, and drive them
up into the skep by placing the feathers or sticks close to the
bottom of the swarm, moving them continually to it as the bees
ascend, until they are lodged safely within. If the queen can
be seen to enter the skep, no further trouble need be taken; the
hive can be placed on the ground near, when, in a short time,
all the remaining portion of the cluster will join those in the
skep. Their movements can be accelerated by shaking the
bushes about, dislodging as many of the bees as possible, and
so causing them to take wing. Swarms can always be gradually
shifted from their positions by manipulating with feathers or
sticks dipped in carbolic acid solution, or with a fumigator; the
first-named are the handiest for the above purpose. There is
no occasion to anoint the inside of the skep with any mixture
of sugar, beer, &c., as is frequently done, with the idea of enticing
them to stay ; it is simply old-fashioned folly to do so, it makes
not the slightest difference, but only gives the bees the trouble
of removing it again. : :

84. Preparing Bar Frame Hive for Reception of
Swarm.—Having hived the swarm in some clean receptacle—
it is not imperative to use a skep—and taken them to the
position they are permanently to occupy, leave them there until
about an hour before sunset, and start preparing the bar-frame
hive for their reception. We will take it that the hive is one
made upon much the same principle as those illustrated at the
commencement of this work, the floor-board being quite separate,
and removable from the body box, for convenience in putting
swarms in, and also for cleanliness. Six frames must be arranged
as described below, and then placed in their proper positions in
the hive; their shoulders must come close together. Now bring
the dummy board right up close to the frames, and place the
quilts on. You will do well to have a good piece of American
cloth (with little or no smell) next the frames, with the enamel
side downwards, and then two or three thicknesses of very warm
material—such as felt—on top. A regulating bottle feeder must
also be put in position on the hive. The hive is then ready for
the reception of the swarm.

46 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

85. Fixing Foundation.—You will require sheets of founda-
tion equal to the number of frames you wish to fit up, some thin
wire (No. 30 tinned), a spur embedder, a board exactly fitting the
inside of the frame, and
just a shade under half

the thickness of the width
ly j of the bars of the frame,

having two ledgers as in

LZ illustration. Now take

= the frame and drive four
Appliance for keeping Frames in three-quarter-inch wire
Position for Wiring. nails at a, 4, ¢, @. and turn

up the points inside the
frame as hooks; then measure off two and a half yards of the wire,
and make a small loop at one end ; put this loop over hook a, then
put the wire over hook 4, to ¢, to ¢, back to ¢, under at e to @, to a,
over at f, to 4, and fasten off. The wire must be pulled tight
at each turn during the fixing. Now place upon the board
a full sheet of foundation,
lay the frame upon this
with the wires pressing
close down upon it, make
the embedder hot over a
lamp—not red hot—then
wheel it along each wire,
using a little pressure. This
will embed the wires right
into the septum, or midrib inj
ae thie nde: Oa Method of Wiring Frame.
lifting the frame from the board, the foundation will be found
to be firmly fixed into the frame, and it will be worked out by the
bees without sagging or buckling in the least. A sheet of paper
should be put between the foundation and the board while doing
this ; it will prevent its sticking and so tearing upon removal.

86. Placing a Swarm in a Bar-frame Hive.—At the
time advised, procure a flat board quite as wide as the hive
and about the same length; if the hive is on a stand it will be
necessary to have a box, or another stand, the same height as
that of the hive. Now put the swarm in the skep on one side
for a time, and place the frame hive in the position vacated
by the skep. It is of very great importance that the hive should
stand perfectly level; therefore, with a spirit level and a long
straight-edge, adjust the hive correctly each way. If it is out
of the perpedicular, all the combs being built by the bees
plumb with the earth, they will be irregularly formed, thus,
in many cases, entirely nullifying the advantages of the bar-
frame system. When the levelling has been completed, raise

SWARMING. 47

the front of the body-box up about an inch from the floor-board,
propping it in that position by means of two stones or pieces of
wood. Now rest one edge of the square board upon the alighting-
board, and bring the opposite edge about level with it; this then
will form a table in front, and extending to the entrance of the hive.
Get your subjugating cloths near at hand, as occasionally these are
wanted, and a stiff feather from a goose wing. Everything being
now ready, gently lift the skep and with a very slight rolling sort
of jerk precipitate a handful or so of the bees upon the table; push
these near to the entrance with the feather, and they will com-
mence to run in. When you see this jerk some more of the bees
among them, and when these are all busily engaged running in
precipitate the whole by jerking the skep violently between the
hands ; those running in will give the signal to the remainder that
a suitable home has been found. The latter, nothing loth, rush in
as fast as possible like a flock of sheep, each giving the signal to
the others until quite a loud, contented sort of hum is set up by
all. Sometimes a few will endeavour to run over the edge of the
board and congregate underneath : any attempt of this kind must
be at once stopped by putting a subjugating cloth in their way,
when they will instantly run from it. When running bees into
any receptacle, it is as well to bear in mind that they always make
for the darkest part, that is the reason why they run into the hive,
it being quite dark within. Sometimes even the shadow of the apiarist
falling upon the board will cause them torun inits direction. This isthe
easiest and cleanest method of populating a frame hive, and
proves the advantage of having body-boxes separate from the
floor-board and stand. If the floor-board is a fixture, or is
simply removable from body-box and stand, the two latter
being fixtures, a different course must be pursued, as the bees
cannot be run in at an ordinary entrance. The hive must be
uncovered, the frames spaced wide apart, and the bees thrown
down upon the tops of the frames, then driven down between
with the fumigator. Often, in doing this, they “boil over” the
sides of the hive, when, in such cases, many are lost, and some-
times the queen ; if she is lost from a swarm, they will gradually
dwindle away and perish. When driven down, place the quilts
on, to prevent their ascending into the roof. After some time,
the frames must be brought close together, and the quilts
re-arranged, the dummy-board being pushed close up against the
dJast frame. All this occasions a vast amount of trouble as com-
pared to the former method. Where a bar-frame hive is of
sufficient capacity to hold, say, sixteen frames, the bees can be
put in very easily, by drawing the dummy-board close to
the back, and placing the six frames in front, with the quilts
on them; then throw the bees ‘in between the last frame and
the dummy-board, and prevent them ascending the sides with
the subjugating cloths; they will, in a very short time, run

48 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

in and cluster among the frames. The dummy-board can
then be shifted right up to the last frame, and all covered up
snugly.

87. After-treatment of Swarms.— Directly a swarm
is put in a hive, it should be fed with syrup, of the strength
recommended for spring feeding. To do this, cut holes through
the quilts in the form of the letter C; thus you will have a piece
of the quilt to form a shutter when not feeding. The different
thicknesses of quilting should each have this shutter to open
in different directions, or the feeder will not stand level. Keep
the bottle continually replenished. Feeding is of very great
importance, especially with early swarms. When the bees have
been in the hive about a week, examine them, to see whether
all the foundation has been drawn out into combs; if they
have, place two more frames of foundation in the hive, alterna-
ting them with built combs. Keep on feeding, and, in about
three days, see that these last two sheets are drawn out; if so,
add two more in the same manner, or as soon as they are
finished ; they will then have their full complement of combs.
When these are finished, feeding can be stopped—if the honey
flow is on—and the section racks put on. If there is little honey
coming in, keep feeding slowly—that is, allow about two holes
of the feeder to be uncovered.

88. Prevention of Absconding Swarms.—When a first
swarm issues from a hive, it usually settles somewhere very near
the apiary; but in the case of second swarms, or casts, they
will frequently fly some distance before settling. The reason is
obvious: a first swarm is accompanied by the old, and a cast
by the young, queen; the latter, being frequently unfertilised,
is more agile than the former, taking longer flights. When a
swarm does not seem inclined to settle water should be thrown
over it, in the form of ‘a spray from a syringe or garden
engine. This, if skilfully applied, will have the desired effect.
Sand thrown among them will sometimes cause them to settle;
but the old style of beating a “tom-tom” on pots, frying pans,
and kettles is but a little amusement to the beater—it has no
effect whatever on the bees. Often, on placing a swarm in a
hive, it will issue again ; the reasons of these erratic movements
are often a mystery. If this occurs, re-hive the bees, and place
a frame of brood, some of which should not have been capped
over, in the middle. This offers a great inducement for them
to stay as they have a considerable amount of affection for the
nurselings of the hive. Where such a frame is not obtainable,
enlarge the hive and shut the bees in, with perforated zinc over
the entrance; then remove them to a cool, perfectly dark place
—such as a cellar—for twenty-four hours. They will then,
upon being returned to their stand and allowed to fly, settle

MANIPULATING. 49

down quietly. When a swarm is first placed in a skep, the latter
should always be allowed to stand in the shade until the bees
have settled, and then at once moved on to its stand, keeping it
well shaded from the sun.

X.—_MANIPULATING.

89. Quieting and Handling Bees.—Confidence, in a
great measure, is the bee-keepers safeguard ; skill, perhaps,
ranks as second in importance; and while the appliances used in
quieting the bees only take a third position, yet we cannot do
without them. For particulars of these appliances we refer the
reader to par. 54. Various conditions have to be borne in
mind when handling bees. A hive in the middle of the day,
when honey is coming in plentifully, is in its most amiable mood,
and requires very little, if any, intimidating ; the same hive on
a cool evening will hardly allow even a corner of the quilt to
be turned up without resenting it. A hive having no stores, or
all stores sealed over, is exceedingly difficult to handle. A
queenless colony is usually more vicious than one in a normal
condition. During autumn on a hot day, it is unwise to make
any very extensive manipulation, and all such should be per-
formed towards evening. A full colony is more difficult to handle
than a weak one. If a colony is once raised to the pitch of
stinging in earnest, cover it up and go to it on a future occasion.
Many colonies which are not to be subdued by smoke or carbolic
acid will frequently be as tame as flies if well sprinkled with
warm syrup before handling. An incautious jarring of the hive
will often raise a~colony to the extreme of viciousness. In com-
mencing to subjugate, walk as gently as possible to the hive
and raise the roof without a sound, place it somewhere near,
then gently raise one end of the quilt and Zee/ it back with one
hand while you drive the bees down between the combs with
fumigator or smoker; do not puff in the entrance; as soon
as the bees are busily engaged filling themselves with honey—
this can easily be seen by their poking their heads in the cells—do
what is required quickly and gently, but quietly; never make
any swift or sudden movement, and on no account allow your
breath to enter the hive. Do not allow, upon removing a frame,
any portion of it to knock against the hive. Never lift out a
frame until you have shifted it laterally sufficient to clear the
adjoining ones; nothing irritates the bees more than being
rubbed between two combs. Never crush a bee: the smell of
the poison in its body irritates the others. If a bee stings
you, do not flinch if you can help it, but scrape the sting
out with the nozzle of the fumigator—the smell of this
counteracts that of the sting: the quick movement of a
flinch will cause others to try their stings upon you. Always

E

50 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

wear a veil, but not gloves, as they make you very clumsy,
and so irritate the bees. When intimidating bees with subjugating
cloths—the easiest and readiest method—do not lay the cloths about
in the sun, but when not required place them in the tin box; the
sun will remove the effects of the subjugator if exposed to its rays
for any length of time. It is advisable to occasionally wash the
cloths in plain water (the subjugator will act as soap); after
drying they can again be sprinkled, and are then as effective
as fresh ones. These cloths are used dry,so that the honey is
never contaminated with the odour as with carbolic acid cloths.
In spring, before the honey flow sets in, or in autumn, after
the honey flow has ceased, bees become very troublesome when
a hive is opened; the attractions of a honey feast thus exposed
are irresistible to the af
occupants of the neigh-
bouring hives, who will
at such times make a
perfect onslaught on
the exposed colony, a
free fight, as well as
plenty of stings to the
apiarist, being the re-
sult. To obviate this,
a tent was introduced
by A. J. Root, of Ohio,
which is of sufficient
size to cover colony
and manipulator right
over when it is impera-
tive that a hive should
be opened at such
times, which very effec- #¢
tually prevents the Root's Manipulating Tent.
intrusion of strange
bees into the opened hive. This tent is made to fold up into
a very portable package for convenience when not in use. It is
made by taking four sticks of some tough wood, such as ash,
about 8$ft. long, and fastening them together like two letter X’s,
with a screw just where they cross. A piece of strong, fine
cord, makes the ridge, and the same cord unites the sticks at
the tops. A mosquito-net bag is made, having the same de-
scription of cord along its lower four edges, and down each of
the four corners; this is slipped over the sticks and secured
at the bottom corners by loops or rings, sewn on to this bag,
and slipped over screwheads at bottoin of sticks. When thus
looped tightly, they bow the sticks, which should be scraped
thinner at this point, at the top, to allow of room for the
operator.

MANIPULATING. §I

90. Driving.—By “ driving” is meant the act of causing the
bees to vacate their skep, leaving combs and brood, and entering
another skep or other receptacle. Before commencing provide
yourself with the following articles: A table, a fumigator or
smoker, subjugating cloths, two iron staples, a short skewer, a
veil, and an empty skep. Having thus prepared yourself, put on
the veil, go to the skep to be driven and blow about a dozen
or so puffs with the fumigator right into the entrance—pushing
the nozzle well in—directly stopping it up with a tuft of grass
placed in lengthways, not screwed up anyhow ; then tap the outside
of the skep a few times all round with your open hands—this is
more especially required on a cool day; directly you hear a con-
siderable hum, it is time to leave off. Now withdraw the grass,
and give five or six more puffs, after which allow the bees a couple
of minutes’ rest in order that they may fill themselves with
honey. During this time you must prevent any bees from coming
out by means of the fumigator or subjugating cloths. Then gently
turn the skep upside down, driving the
bees between the combs as you do it;
place it upon the table in this inverted
position. If it is a flat-topped skep, it
will stand without any support ; but if
of a dome shape, it must be put in a
pail to steady it. Now take the empty
skep, and push the skewer through its
extreme edge, from inside to outside ;
then place it nearly mouth down upon
the stock, and push the pointed end
of the skewer into the top edge of the
lower skep—this forms a hinge. Lift
the top skep up in front, and insert
the two staples on the outside, so as
to fix it in the position as seen in the engraving. Be parti-
cular that the combs run from back to front, and not across
the opening thus made, or you will have some trouble to
make the bees ascend. Then drive the bees down from the
front and two sides, as you want the bees to run up the back
part. So arrange your skeps that the strongest lhght comes
from your back, Now commence with the palms of your two
hands to give regular, slow, and continuous taps, so as to jar
the combs, but not hard enough to break them; presently the
bees will get into a violent commotion, and will commence to
man up the back part of the skep into the top one. Some ‘will
endeavour to “boil over” the sides ; these must be driven down.
After a short time, the stock skep will be emptied of its bees ;
then the top one with the bees in it can be removed. In driving
with a smoker the same course is pursued ; but the entrance must
not be stopped. The easiest plan to subjugate the bees in a

E2

Position of Skeps when
Driving.

2 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

skep is to stand behind it and then drop a subjugating cloth over
the entrance as a curtain, the two top corners being held between
the two thumbs and the side of the skep, and the hands pressing
on the latter. Loosen the skep from its stand and turn it upside
down, the top coming towards you; this will cause the cloth to fall
right over the mouth of the skep and so prevent any escape of
bees, at the same time effectively subjugating them.

91. Transferring.—As the term denotes, this applies to
the removal of a stock, with combs and brood, from one hive
and placing them in another; but in bee-keeping it only applies
to such a proceeding when practised between skeps or boxes and
bar-frame hives. If we take a stock and combs from one bar-
frame hive and put them in another, although it is transferring,
it would not come under that denomination from a bee-keeper’s
point of view. This manipulation is frequently performed if the
stock has nice straight and fairly new combs ; but, on the other
hand, one having old, dark, and crooked combs is not worth
the trouble. It is, to a novice, the easiest method to transfer
three weeks after swarming, as then there is usually no capped
brood in the hive—
consequently, no like-
lihood of damage be-
ing done to it. We
will suppose that you
have a stock with
quite straight combs,
and the skep is at
least tlin. high. The
appliances needed will
be two penny bundles
of the narrowest tape Method of Securing Comb in Frame,
procurable, a board ; 5
of a size rather larger than a bar-frame, a pair of scissors,
and a sharp table-knife. Now commence by driving the stock
as described under the heading “ Driving” (par. 90), and, when
finished, place the bees on one side. Take the skep containing
the combs, and cut it in halves between the two centre combs :
this allows them to be taken out with much ease, although it
destroys the skep. A knife is sold, having a hooked blade, that
can be used to cut the combs out without destroying the skep ;
but cutting it in halves is much the easiest plan. Now place
the board upon a table and lay two pieces of tape, each 265in.
long, across this board; then take one of the combs from the
skep, lay it flat upon the tapes, and then put one of the frames
of the bar-frame hive upon it, marking the exact size of the inside
of the frame upon the comb; remove the frame and cut the comb
as marked. Now place the frame about the comb, and, bringing
the two ends of each tape together, tie the comb into the frame.

MANIPULATING. 53

If the comb is not deep enough to reach the bottom bar of frame,
a slat of wood must be placed along the bottom edge of it, and
the tapes passed under that instead of the bottom bar. The
frame with the comb tied in, as illustrated, is to be placed in
the bar-frame hive, and every comb in the skep of sufficient size
treated in the same manner. Reject all drone-comb.

A comb can be made up of pieces of others, if they are nicely
fitted in and well secured with tapes. The whole of the combs
having now been utilised, the bees are to be put in the hive in
the same manner as described at par. 86 (“Placing a Swarm in
a Bar-frame Hive”)—that is, if the transferring is done quickly ;
but if but slow progress is made, after having transferred a
couple of frames, a quantity of the bees must be shaken in and
the quilts put on; this is done that the brood or eggs may not
get chilled, a frame being added from time to time as finished.
The combs must be placed in the same position as they occu-
pied in the hive—that is, honey at top, brood at bottom—and
all brood must be crowded in the centre of the hive.

92. Transferring with Old and Crooked Combs.—
Place the frame hive in the exact position as occupied by the
skep, and fit up all the frames with sheets of foundation. Then
drive the bees, and, after the queen has been seen to go up into
the upper hive, stop driving. Lay a sheet of excluder zinc upon
the tops of the frames, completely covering the space occupied
by them; then put the skep upon the top of the excluder zinc,
and stop up all means of ingress from the lower portion of the
frame hive into the upper, around the outside of the skep. Now
run the bees, with queen, into the lower portion, or body-box ; the
queen, with a portion of the bees, will keep in there, the bees
drawing out the foundation. Some of them will stay in the skep
and rear the brood. The excluder zinc preventing the queen going
up and laying any more eggs in the skep, all brood will be hatched
out in three weeks, when the skep can be removed, the bees
driven out and returned in at the entrance to body-box, the ex-
cluder zinc removed, and quilts placed on, the honey being taken
out of skep, and combs melted. Another plan is by making an
artificial swarm (par. 79), and placing that in the frame hive;
in three weeks drive the skep from which the swarm was
taken, and remove the queen, uniting the bees to the frame
hive. It is better to remove the old queen, which will be the
one in the frame hive. The skep must be gradually brought
close up to the frame hive before the uniting takes place, or a
number of the bees will be lost.

93. After-treatment of Transferred Colonies.— When
a colony has been transferred as advised, it should be fed
plentifully until the combs have been firmly fixed in the frames,
the broken portions mended, and all spaces filled up with new

54 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

comb. In from three to four days remove the tapes; this can
easily be done by cutting them on the tops of the frames with
a pair of scissors, and then drawing them out. If any of them
have been fastened by the bees, it cannot be done thus; the
frame will have to be taken out and tapes removed. These
tapes, if left in the hive, will be gradually removed by the bees ;
but it is very injudicious to leave them in, as a number of the
bees will be engaged for days in gnawing them to pieces for
removal, and will also get entangled in the fibres. Sheets of
foundation must be added gradually to make up the full number
of combs ; but this need not be done if the transfer has been
made late in the season; then well feed the stock up on six
frames. Never transfer a stock after the middle of August.

94. Uniting.—It is very frequently of great service to
unite two or more colonies, as, by so doing, the harvest
is very considerably increased, and many other advantages
gained. It is a well-known fact that two weak colonies will
never collect any surplus; but unite them, and so form one
strong colony, and a good return will almost invariably be
obtained. In winter, if a small cluster only of bees is left in
a hive, they stand very little chance of living through its rigours.
When so small a quantity are thus situated, a large amount of
stores must be consumed to keep up the required heat; but
unite two such lots, making one strong colony, less heat is
required, and, as a consequence, less food is consumed. A
queenless colony can be united to one having a queen, when
spare queens are not procurable, as in early spring. In all cases
of uniting, the hives must be gradually brought close together,
if they are in the same apiary, or less than a mile apart.
Driven or condemned bees can be united, in order to form strong
colonies, in bar-frame hives ; such are usually very successful.
Swarms may be united by shaking them together, if this is done
within twenty-four hours of swarming. In the matter of uniting,
it is a hard-and-fast rule that any two colonies, both being deprived
of their hives, combs, and brood, will unite peaceably if thrown
together and mixed, the two queens, unless one is removed,
fighting it out for supremacy.

95. Uniting Two Colonies in Bar-frame Hives.—First
move the two colonies close together, by gradual stages of not
more than a yard per day (see par. 108), Having brought them
quite close together, obtain about half-a-pint of thin syrup— rb. of
granulated sugar to a pint of water—and mix in it eight drops
of essence of peppermint—not oil of peppermint; this latter
caution is given, as we saw a colony ruined by using the oil
instead of the essence, the former being much too strong for the
purpose. When this is prepared, go to the hives, and, after subju-
gating the bees, well sprinkle them with this scented syrup. This

MANIPULATING. 55

plan can also be modified by well dusting each lot with ordinary
flour. After about three minutes have elapsed, space the
frames of one colony wide apart ; this had better be done with
the hive that the queen is to be removed from. After she has
been removed, take the frames from the other hive and alter-
nate them with the frames of the first one, being particular that
all combs with brood are placed close together, in the centre.
As all the bees smell alike, no fighting will take place. Pre-
suming that there are too many frames in both hives for the
capacity of one, keep out any not having brood in them, brush-
ing the bees off with a stiff feather back into the hive.
Those who are at all timid of bees had better put all the frames
in the hive, and, early the next morning, if cold, remove the out-
side frames; they will have no bees upon them, the cold night
causing them to cluster closely over the brood in the centre of the
hive. Some of the frames without brood, if too many for the
body-box, can be rested on top of the others, but over the quilts,
until the next day ; all the bees will join those below if a passage-
way is left for them. Two colonies, one being queenless, can be
united in the same manner. In the hands of an adept the scented
syrup need not be used, as, in the event of fighting commencing,
or any signs of it, it can be prevented by shaking the bees
well up together, which a novice would hardly care about doing.
Even when the frames are simply alternated, fighting rarely
takes place, but in autumn or spring the queen is likely to be
“balled”—z\e., killed by suffocation—the bees forming a com-
pact mass around her about the size of a walnut.

96. Uniting a Skep with a Bar-frame Hive.—
Drive the skep, then subjugate the colony in the frame hive,
and remove the least valuable of the two queens. Then take
out the frames from the bar-frame hive, and shake off all the
bees on to a board placed in front and contiguous to the
entrance of the hive; then shake all the driven bees from the
skep among them—they will get thoroughly mixed, and run
in together at the entrance quite peaceably (see par. 86).
Scented syrup need not be used in doing this, as both colonies
have been for a short time deprived of the hive, combs, and brood.

97. Uniting Nucleus Colonies.—At the end of the season
there are frequently a few nuclei without queens; these can all
be united to one nucleus colony having a queen by alternating
the frames of each in a fresh hive, first dusting them with flour.

98. Uniting Swarms.—Throw the two swarms together
upon a sheet or large board, and let them run in a hive together.
This must be done within twenty-four hours of swarming. Casts,
or second swarms, can be treated in this manner; they will
then pay, if fed up well. Swarms will frequently unite of their

56 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

own accord if they issue at the same time from hives contiguous
to each other.

99. Difficulty in Uniting Two Distinct Varieties.—
Two distinct varieties of bees do not unite so easily as two of
the same race. This is most noticeable with Italians; it is much
the best plan to use scented syrup with these.

100. Feeding.—When to feed, and how to feed, are ques-
tions of very great importance to the bee-keeper. By feeding
at an inopportune time much damage is done; by not feeding,
the same results will most likely accrue. There are two most
important seasons when feeding must be done ; they are, Spring
and Autumn. Both these descriptions of feeding are totally
different in their mode of application, and also the description
of food supplied. We will therefore enumerate the various
systems in their proper order as the bee-keeper will be called
upon to practise them.

101. Spring Feeding.—A hive at the commencement of
spring is in a very depopulated condition ; especially is this the
case when, through an excess of stores the previous autumn,
the queen has been restricted in her breeding space. Under
these circumstances there will be very few bees left in the hive
when spring arrives. The oldest bees of a community die first ;
as a consequence, the young ones are the most likely to live
through the winter and come out in the spring in the best
condition. If the number of these can be augmented by young
ones reared earlier in the spring than they would be in the
natural course of things a great gain will be made. Not only
is this done, but a hive can, by judicious feeding, be brought
into such a condition before the honey flow as it would be, if left
unattended, after such had commenced. It is well known that
bees, if left entirely to their own inclinations, are not in so
flourishing a condition when the honey flow sets in as they are
a short time after—therefore much honey is left to waste, as
there are not sufficient bees to collect it; but if we can,
by a certain system of management, get our hives in as strong
a condition just before this event takes place, this early honey
will be saved to the bee-keeper. It is also of a quality far
superior to that gathered very late in the season, excepting
heather honey. At about six weeks before the expected honey
flow the graduated bottle-feeder is placed in its position upon
the top of the frames, but over the quilts, a hole being cut
through these to enable the bees to get to the under part of
the feeder and so obtain the syrup. The bottle is filled with
sugar syrup of the consistency as directed under the heading
“Spring Syrup” (par. 72). If the whole number of holes were
uncovered, so as to enable the bees to get an unlimited supply

MANIPULATING, 57

of the food, they would so fill their combs that the queen would
be “crowded out”—the meaning of which is that the cells would
be filled with syrup until there were none, or very few, empty
ones left for her to lay eggs in; the colony must then gradually
dwindle away. But, on the contrary, if the amount of syrup fed
to the bees is restricted to suit the ideas of the advanced bee-
keeper, a great advantage will be gained; therefore, unless the
colony is in a starving condition, the bees must only be allowed
to obtain the syrup through not more than two holes of the
feeder, and if they take down more than a half-pint of syrup
per day, this must be reduced to one hole. The manner in
which this so favourably affects the colony is thus explained:
Unless an amount of stores is being collected by the bees
sufficient for their consumption as well as for the larve, the queen
will not lay eggs much beyond the number that can be sup-
ported upon that quantity. If no stores are coming in, but
there is a sufficiency in the hive to support the colony, the
queen will lay a moderate number of eggs—in fact, will breed
in a half-hearted sort of manner—but the instant stores begin
to come in her laying is greatly increased; hence by practising
this mild deception upon the queen, causing her to suppose
that natural stores are being collected, she increases the number
of eggs laid, and the colony by this increases proportionately in
strength. In some cases a stock is so well supplied with
natural stores that it is unwise to feed even the small amount
from one hole in a feeder, as we must allow the queen as
much space as possible for her to lay in. When such is the
case, the cells contiguous to the brood-nest containing honey
must be uncapped. This can easily be done without removing
any of the frames—which is inadvisable in early spring—by
simply inserting an ordinary table-knife between the frames and
raising the cappings of a few cells every two or three days.
This will very much increase breeding in the hive, and by
many is thought superior to feeding; but our colonies are not
always in so flourishing a condition as to admit of this being
done. Often colonies at springtime—about February or March
—are found to be short of stores, especially when the winter
has been mild, causing the bees to move about, and in conse-
quence to feed more freely. If at this early time syrup is given
them, it will most likely produce dysentery ; this must be avoided
by giving them candy or dry sugar. In the recipe for making
candy (par. 75), we have advised running it while in a soft state
upon sheets of paper; these slabs of candy must be broken up
into pieces of about 3in. square, and laid with their unpapered
side downwards upon the tops of the frames, the quilts being
covered over and tucked down snug and warm. The object of
having the paper is that, as the candy is eaten away, the paper
forms an archway through which the bees can pass from one

58 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

frame to another without having to go into the cold atmosphere
at the lower part of the hive. Flour candy can be given them
with advantage at this season of the year.

102. Dry Sugar Feeding.—This is another system of
feeding in very early spring (but feeding with soft candy is
preferable), It is conducted in the following manner: A
thin piece of paper, having about a dozen holes made with a
pencil being pushed through just over the position where the
bees cluster, is laid on top of the frames, first removing the
quilts. On this paper three or four pounds of Porto Rico sugar
is laid and pressed down firmly; it will then form almost a solid
cake. Upon this the quilts are laid, an enamel one first, with its
bright side down. The condensation of the moisture from the
bees will soften the sugar, which has the peculiar property of
taking up moisture more readily than any other description, and
so forms syrup, the bees using it as fast as produced. This sugar
can also be fed to them in a feeder at the back of the hive; but
in cold weather this often fails, as the bees have to leave the
cluster to get at the food. The feeder used for this purpose is
a double dummy-board, having one wall removable. The space
between the two walls is filled with sugar. The inner wall does
not quite reach the top bar; this allows a space for the bees to
enter at the top and
feed. There is a little
more waste by feeding
on top of the frames,
but it is much the
safest plan.

103. Artificial
Pollen.— This must
be given the bees,
directly crocuses blos-
som, in boxes distri-
buted in sunny corners
near the hives. Straw
should be first chopped
up in lengths of 2in.
or 3in., and laid on the
bottoms of the boxes,
the flour (par. 76) be-
ing thickly sprinkled
on this. A roof must
be provided, to prevent
any rain driving in, or
the flour will cake; the boxes must also be raised from the ground,
that dampness may not similarly affect the flour. The illustration
makes this clear; A, A, A are the roof supports to allow bee-space.

Inexpensive Pollen- feeder.

MANIPULATING, 59

104, Summer Feeding.—Feeding in the summer months
is very seldom resorted to, except with swarms. These ought
always to have an abundance provided directly they are placed
in the hive, the feeding to be continued for about a fortnight.
The syrup used should be of the same consistency as that
advised for spring feeding. There are times in the sunimer
months when, perhaps, feeding will be found advantageous ;
but it should never be resorted to unless the bees are unable
to do without it. Of course, when so feeding them, the sections
(if on the hive) must be removed, or they will become the
receptacles of the syrup. Under these circumstances we strongly
deprecate the feeding of stocks in summer.

105. Autumn Feeding.—This is the most important time
of feeding, and it should receive the bee-keeper’s best attention.
It is almost entirely owing to the care bestowed upon this
whether the stocks live or die during the rigour of winter.
Autumn feeding should on no account be continued later than
the 1st of October; prior to this date all feeding should have
been done and finished. Every stock before then must have
received its quota of stores. This is of great importance, the
success of our harvest the next season depending, in a great
measure, upon it. If a colony is fed upon syrup after the above
date, the bees will be unable to evaporate and seal it over in the
combs, on account of the lowness of temperature. Bees cannot
manipulate their wax in a temperature lower than 85° Fahr.
The temperature in a cluster when comb-building will be found
to be not less than go° Fahr. As such is the case, the wax
at a lower degree is not sufficiently plastic for them to form
cappings to their cells ; the syrup is thus exposed to the air, and as
a consequence it will ferment and turn sour, producing dysentery
in the bees that feed on it. Where the honey-flow ceases at the
end of July, or beginning of August, autumn feeding should be
commenced soon after, but only in those colonies that are
very short of stores, and even with these by very slow degrees,
or the queen will be “crowded out”; but as soon as the advent
of September the feeding must be as fast as possible. The syrup
to be used is that recommended under the heading “ Autumn
Syrup” (par. 71). When a colony ina bar-frame hive has 3olb. of
stores feeding can be stopped, as this amount is sufficient to last
them until the following spring. A very good calculation can
be made as to the weight of food in a hive by taking, as a
basis, the weight of one frame when filled, and of the average
thickness. An Association Standard frame, if fairly new—say not
more than three years old—will contain about 5lb. of stores.
If the total amount is reckoned upon this assumption, a very
correct estimate can be made, which will always be on the right
side, as a comb three parts filled will represent a trifle over

60 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

three-fourths of a full comb, as the upper—just where the honey
is stored—holds more than the lower portion. Where autumn
feeding has been neglected, candy can be placed upon the tops
of the frames, or Porto Rico sugar, as recommended in “Early
Spring Feeding” (pars. Io1 and 102). On no account must
syrup be fed to bees during the winter. All feeding is preferably
conducted on the top of the hive, and the feeders well covered
to prevent any bees gaining access to them. The feeder de-
scribed on p. 37, a sectional view of which is there given, is a
very good one for feeding up quickly in autumn; and where
such quick feeding is imperative, as in driven bees or neglected
stocks, a feeder upon this principle must be used. A large stock
can be very easily fed up in a little over a week with this
feeder. Many apiarists cause one or two colonies to store a
sufficiency of combs for a larger number of stocks, removing
such combs as fast as filled, and giving them to the other
colonies in want. In the case of colonies being over full of
stores, frames may be taken from them and given to needy
stocks, thus saving the trouble of feeding, which at the best
is a source of much trouble and labour.

106. Feeding Nuclei.—Nucleus hives should always contain
a fair proportion of stores, which should be given them in frames—
that is, at least one frame in the hive should be well filled with
honey, some of which must be uncapped.

107. Winter Feeding.—The necessity for this only occurs
when a bee-keeper has neglected his stocks. Warm cakes of
candy should be quickly and quietly slipped under the quilts on a
warm day, taking the greatest care that the least amount of cold
air enters the hive while doing so.

108. Moving Bees.— The difficulty of moving hives of
bees a short distance without its entailing a considerable loss
to the population is very great. When a bee first flies from
the hive it takes note of all the surroundings, continually flying
from the hive in gradually increasing circles and returning
again, until it has become quite familiar with the exact position
of its home. If that home is moved the bees, not being aware
of such removal, when they again fly forth will return after to
the only position known to them. There being no hive there,
they will, after searching around the spot for a considerable
time, perish, unless they are allowed to enter a neighbouring
hive, which they will be permitted to do if filled with honey,
and thereafter form part of that colony; but the major portion
of such lost bees settle upon some adjacent object and die. The
surrounding country is so well known to the inhabitants of a
hive that, if it is moved two miles away, quite a number
will find their way back to the original position and die, but

MANIPULATING. 61

not in such numbers as to be of much detriment to the stock,
as most of these voyageurs are old bees who have pretty nearly
“run their course.” As will be seen by this, it is inadvisable to
alter the position of any hive unless it is moved at least two
miles. But this does not apply to the winter time, after the
bees have been confined to their hive for some weeks. During
this period they seem partially to have forgotten the topo-
graphy of the neighbourhood, but not entirely so, as even then
a tew will fly back to the old stand. Therefore, if it is
required to move hives a short distance, one of the following
plans must be adopted: it must be done during the winter, and
after a considerable interval of bad weather; or they must be
taken at least two miles from their original position, and then,
after about a fortnight, brought back to the position required ;
or the hives must be moved towards a given spot, by short
stages at one time. If a colony is moved two yards from its
position it is found that a large number of the bees will be
lost; but if the distance moved is only one yard, all will be
able to discover the whereabouts of the hive. Particular atten-
tion must be paid that the moving is only done on the evening
of each day when the bees, through this same day, have been
flying very freely. The position of two hives can be inter-
changed—a course of action frequently desirable if this is done
when honey is coming in plentifully. Bees coming home laden
with honey will almost invariably be received into a strange
hive, as also will very young bees. This strange fact accounts for so
many bees of distinct and different races being found in other
than their own hives.

109. Spring Management.—As soon as winter becomes
a thing of the past the bees will commence to move in a more
business-like manner; not but what, even before this, they have
been preparing for the coming season. Brood-rearing has been
going on for some time; very often in January a commencement
will be made, and nearly all hives contain a certain amount of
brood, in various stages, during February. It is then but a
small patch, right in the centre of the cluster, which, as the
season advances, gradually increases in size until nearly the
whole of the combs in the body-box are one mass of brood.
When breeding has started the bees must be kept particularly
warm; more so is this necessary than even in winter. It is
by the warmth of the bees’ bodies that the eggs are hatched,
and the larve protected from the cold. A sudden chill will
kill them. The greatest care must be taken that no cold
draughts are allowed to enter the hive, and that the cover-
ings on top of the frames are sufficient and well packed.
Many careless bee-keepers place the quilts on, but do not
notice whether they properly cover the frames or not, so

62 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING,

that frequently there will be quite a current of cold air through
the hive.

See that all colonies are well supplied with food, and, if any
are found short, feed with slabs of candy on top of the frames.

Examine all colonies some warm day in March, to see that
none are queenless; if so, they must be united at once to
another stock having a queen (see “ Uniting,” par. 94). Remove
all frames not occupied by bees, and close up the division-board
nice and snug.

All floor-boards should be cleansed from the a@éérzs which has
collected through the winter. In the crevices of the floor-boards,
and at the junction of them with body-box, are favourite retreats
of the larve of the wax-moth: these must be killed. To remove
the floor-board, lift up the body-box very gently, and place it
close alongside upon a slightly carbolised cloth; then scrape
and brush the floor-board at some distance from the hive, thus
preventing any of the wax-moth larve gaining access to it
again ; then replace it in its proper position, with the body-box
in its place. The bees have now a clean hive to commence the
work of the season in, as no dirt is ever allowed to remain
inside the body-box, and the bee-keeper has removed the dirt
from the floor-board.

Soon after the commencement of April will be the best time to
commence stimulative (Spring) feeding; but in certain districts,
where early honey-producing flowers blossom, a commencement
can be made before this time. In locations near fruit plantations
and orchards, bees are in a strong condition much earlier than
where the first honey crop is from the clovers. This well
exemplifies the fact that early or stimulative feeding produces
forward colonies. Where a stock has plenty of stores, it can
be stimulated by uncapping a portion of the honey cells (see
“Spring Feeding,” par. 101).

At this season add frames of comb or foundation to the outside
of the brood-nest, where the hives have been contracted, but not
until warm weather sets in, or if the hive gets uncomfortably
crowded ; and then only add one at a time, until the full comple-
ment of frames occupy the body-box. Ten Association Standard
frames will be found the most convenient size for a brood-
nest ; very few queens occupy a larger number.

Robbing is very prevalent in spring before the honey-flow
sets in, but is never so difficult to eradicate as in autumn.
Keep the entrances of hives contracted according to the strength
of the colonies, or their aptitude for protecting their hives.

Artificial pollen must be supplied to the bees Just before crocuses
blossom, unless there are considerable sources for the supply of the
natural in the neighbourhood, such as from the willows, furze,
whin, crocuses, and other early flowers (see pars. 76 and 103).

The providing of water at this season is very important ; this

MANIPULATING. 63

should be given in shallow dishes, filled with pieces of brick for
the bees to alight on, and placed in some warm corner. Do not
allow any miniature pools between the pieces of brick, or quite
a number of bees will be drowned.

Stocks can be equalised at this season by removing frames
of brood from ‘very strong hives and giving them to weaker
ones ; but this may only be done when warm weather sets in ;
and the colony added to must have all its combs thickly
covered with bees. It will take about six weeks to build up a
colony to its required strength ; this time must be allowed from
the commencement of stimulative feeding until the usual time of
the honey-flow in a certain district.

This will be found a very convenient time to repaint and repair
any hives in use. The frames should be lifted ex dloc, if it is
at all cold, into a fresh hive, and the old one taken into the
workshop. During spring will be found the great advantage of
having the alighting-boards of hives to reach the ground;
thousands of bees are saved by thus preventing their being
blown, by the strong and cold winds prevalent then, under the
hives to perish. During spring hives should be fitted up ready
for swarms, section-racks cleaned and re-filled; and all little
matters of detail which can be done during the slack months
will be found of great assistance when the busy season arrives.
Purchases of appliances required in the summer months should
be made, as when the latter season arrives orders are sent in
for goods in such numbers, and all wanted “at once,” that the
manufacturers cannot execute them fast enough, many of their
customers having to wait a week or two before the receipt of
goods.

110. Spreading Brood.—Some writers advocate what is
termed “spreading brood” in springtime; this is, we venture to
assert, the worst advice that can possibly be given. The brood-
nest of a hive is almost a sphere, which shape is always preserved,
so that if a portion of the middle of it (a frame) is exchanged
with one on the outside of the brood-nest, an irregularity is made.
This not being countenanced in the hive, eggs are laid by
the queen to preserve the circular form; as a consequence,
she thus enlarges the brood-nest considerably. The bees in the
hive are thus distributed over a wider area, quantities of brood
being chilled—more than the number gained by spreading.
Even an expert cannot prognosticate the temperature that may
occur at any particular time, and if that suddenly drops the
cluster of bees will contract, and leave quantities of brood
uncovered, to become chilled. Not only is it the loss of eggs
and larve, but, without doubt, the decomposition of the bodies
in the cells must be a fertile source of disease; then, again,
all the dead larve have to be removed by the bees, whose

64 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

time might be occupied in a more profitable manner. We
should desire to see this manipulation banished entirely from
the pages of all bee manuals.

111. Autumn Management.—Directly after the honey-
flow ceases, the bees will commence to rob where they have the
opportunity ; any weak colony will be a desirable object for their
attention, therefore preventive measures should be taken (see
“Robbing,” par 117) to stop this inveterate habit of the bee.

All colonies should be thoroughly examined to see that there
are none queenless ; when any are so found, a queen must be
introduced (see “ Queen Introduction,” pars 124, 125).

Any supers which have been allowed to remain on the hives
must be removed, as the honey contained therein will be taken
down into the body of the hive as soon as cool nights set in.
Should there be any partially filled sections, these can either be
extracted or placed behind the division-board—which must be
raised up 4in. from the floor-board—for the bees to clear out.

From the beginning until the end of August the queen should
be kept breeding; this cannot be if the combs in the centre
of the hive are full of honey; extract three or four frames, and
place them: in the middle of the brood-nest, removing some of
the outside ones to make room for them. The young bees
hatched at this season will be of great benefit to the hive in
early spring. Supersede all old or worthless queens.

Drive bees from cottagers’ skeps, and unite them to any
hives that have become depopulated. Strong colonies always
winter better than weak ones. Second and third swarms—
usually weak—should be united to form strong colonies, and
then fed up. The youngest or most desirable queen in all
cases should be kept.

As soon as September arrives, feed up all colonies as quickly as
possible (see “ Autumn Feeding,” par. 105). When this has been
done, prepare them for the coming winter. Each comb should
have a winter passage cut through it; this is a hole about 3in.
in diameter. Cut by means of a pointed knife, thrust through
at about two-thirds the height of the comb, when, by giving
the knife a twist, a circular hole is made. These holes enable
the bees to alter their position from comb to comb without
passing through the cold atmosphere at bottom of hive. A
better plan—one that does not disfigure the combs—is to place
narrow pieces of wood, about 4in. thick, here and there on top
of the frames; when the quilts are laid over these they form
tunnels for the bees to pass over the tops of the combs. Many
bee-keepers reduce the number of frames in the body-box for the
bees to winter upon; where combs are wanted for other purposes,
this can be done, but if not wanted leave them in the hive.
We have failed to discover any advantage by removal.

MANIPULATING. 65

Provide thick cushions for covering over the quilts ; these can
be made of calico and filled with chaff; but the best description,
as well as the most convenient, is a shallow box, without top o1
bottom, of a size to cover the number of frames in the hive;
on the bottom of this tack loosely a piece of calico. This tray
is to be laid over the quilts, and filled with cork dust, obtainable
at any fruiterer’s, it being used for packing foreign grapes in.
Place American cloth quilts next the frames, with the glazed
side down; these are, without doubt, the best quilts to use
at all seasons, but they must be thickly covered over on top,
and the colonies must be strong—both necessaries in successtul
wintering.

The entrances to the hives should be kept open to the extent
of about six or eight inches in the case of strong colonies, and
covered with excluder zinc, loosely tacked on, in order to prevent
the entrance of mice.

Roofs of hives should be thoroughly examined before winter,
and mended where found defective; dampness is a source of
many of the evils attendant upon bee life.

It is during autumn that the greatest difficulty is experienced
in handling bees; extra precautions must be then taken, not
only on account of the bees’ increased pugnacity, but to prevent
the access of strange bees into the hive when manipulating.
Where possible, all manipulations should take place after the
bees have ceased flying, or before they have commenced.
Frequent failures to intimidate a colony are experienced at this
season, mostly from the fact that all their stores are sealed over ;
in consequence, the bees are prevented from filling themselves
with honey. This is obviated by taking a little can of warm
syrup to the hive, and pouring a small quantity between the
combs; it is greedily licked up by the bees, and is a very
effectual substitute for uncapped stores. It is at such times as
these that the superiority of subjugating cloths over smoke as an
intimidant is fully seen. Not only is it possible to intimidate a
hive, but also at the same time prevent the ingress of strange
bees when the manipulations have to be performed while the
bees are flying. On such occasions provide two pieces of washed
calico, 17in. broad and about rgin. long ; these, after being charged
with the subjugator, as before recommended (see page 50), fold up
into two rolls, 17in. long ; remove the quilts from the hive, using
the fumigator to drive the bees down; then nearly unroll one
_of the cloths on top of the frames, covering them right over,
the now unrolled portion to be at the back of the hive. When
the bees are sufficiently occupied—two or three minutes—in
their honey cells, the dummy-board and first frame must be
shifted to the back of the hive, and the frame examined, the
other rolled-up cloth to be placed lengthways on top of these ;
now roll up the first cloth so as to uncover one frame, examine

F

66 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

it, shift it to the back of the hive, and unroll a portion of the
second cloth on top of it; you thus have only one frame
uncovered at a time, and only a very small quantity of bees to
contend with, as the rest are being kept in a state of subjection
all the time by the subjugating cloths. The bees flying will have
hittle to do with the hive while these cloths remain on.

112. Packing for Travelling.—The bee-keeping industry
has made such rapid strides during the last few years, that bees
have become quite frequent articles of commerce; this being so,
many railway and other journeys must be made by them, when
often, through the fault of inexperienced people, accidents occur
which under a different method of packing would have been
averted. If greater care is not taken in the packing of bees
for railway journeys, the railway companies will, as in some
parts of America, refuse to carry them. We give directions how
to pack bees for travelling in safety in the United Kingdom.
For foreign countries the packing 1s too difficult for novices.
We have, however, sent full colonies with perfect safety to Natal,
Cape Colony, and Australia.

113. To Pack a Straw Skep.—These should never be
sent on a railway journey between the middle of June and the
end of October, as the combs being laden with honey, the
temperature high, and the hives crammed with bees at such
season, the whole structure will give way, and the bees be drowned
in their own honey. Swarms of the current year in straw skeps
must not be moved until December at the earliest, or certain
destruction will ensue, the combs being so very tender. It is
much the best plan to defer any railway journey during frost
or very cold weather. A straw skep, if not laden with honey,
and at least a twelvemonth old, can be so packed as to travel any
distance. The following is the best plan of packing for a long
journey: Provide a number of pieces of cork—wine corks cut up will
do nicely— in. thick (each having a hole bored or burnt through
the centre), a piece of stout wire three inches longer than the skep
is wide, and pointed at one end, three-quarters of a yard of strainer-
cloth, and some string ; place these articles handy and close to the
hive to be packed. Now intimidate the bees as before directed
when Driving, and then invert the skep in a pail to keep it steady;
now take one of the pieces of cork, and placing it between the
middle top edge of the first comb and the inside of the skep,
push the pointed end of the wire through the skep from the
outside through the cork and comb; then place another piece
of cork between this first comb and the next, and push the wire
through this piece of cork and comb; and so on until the whole
of the combs have a piece of cork between each two, the wire
skewering them all solidly together: this keeps the combs from
swaying and consequent breaking. Turn the wire at each end

MANIPULATING. 67

on the outside of each side of the skep where it protrudes; now
replace the skep on its stand to collect the flying bees; when
they have returned and quieted down, spread the strainer-cloth
upon the ground, lift the hive mouth down upon this, and
gathering up the four corners of the cloth,
tie it round the skep securely with string.
After the bees are thus fastened in, the
hive can be inverted and two more strings
fastened round separately, four small wire
; staples being driven in over these strings
to prevent their slipping up or down. The
hive has now only to be placed in a
hamper in its inverted position, labelled
“Live Bees—With Care” in large letters,
and then sent off to its destination. Where
a hamper is not obtainable get the top of
an American cheese box, and coil a straw
band within this, then set the hive on this band and cord it
tightly on; the straw acts as a cushion, preventing violent
jarring. In packing straw skeps for travelling short distances,
where no changing of trains takes place, the corks and wire can
be dispensed with, but they must always be sent in an inverted
position, with the mouth of the skep covered either with strainer-
cloth or perforated zinc.

114, To Pack a Bar-frame Hive for Travelling.—
This will require a little more attention than a straw skep, but
usually bears the jour-
ney much better. The t=
articles used in the =
packing will be a ==
number of pieces of
the narrowest tape
procurable, each 251n.
long, and a_ board
17in. wide and as
long as will cover
the entire number
of frames and the
dummy-board in the
hive. In this board
an oblong hole is
made, at least 4in.
wide, and of the Flat Board Covering Frames.
greatest length that : : :
the board will allow; over this hole a piece of perforated zinc
is affixed. A few long screws and a narrow strip of perforated
zinc, of a size to cover over the entrance to the hive, are also

r2

Method of Securing
Combs.

68 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

required. Go to the hive to be packed and remove each
frame, tying them round with two pieces of tape in the exact
manner as advised under “ Transferring” (par. 91), returning
each to the hive as finished. Now lay upon the tops of
the frames the board with the oblong hole, the side where
the zinc is tacked on being uppermost ; then tightly screw
this board down on the tops of the frames, so that it presses
them firmly down: it will then hold them perfectly rigid.
The hole provides ventilation, which is very essential when the
bees are excited with the journey. When this is done, cover
the board with the quilts and leave the bees alone until they have
settled down quietly ; when they have, tack the narrow strip of
perforated zinc over the entrance. They will now be firmly fastened
in the hive. The body-box must now be screwed to the floor board,
the quilts removed, and the roof fixed, partially open, to the body-
box; the dummy-board must be fixed, to prevent it slipping, by
some screws properly adjusted. Now thoroughly overhaul the
hive, to see that there are no little crevices left open where the
bees could crawl through; any, if found, must be plugged up.
The hive will now be ready to send anywhere within a three
or four days’ journey. No tapes are required if the frames are
wired. (See paragraph 85).

115. Packing Swarms and Driven Bees.—These are
best sent in wood boxes having large holes about 6in. square
or more at each side, covered with perforated zinc. A box to
contain 4lb. of bees should be at least 15in. by 8in. by 8in. It
is quite a simple operation to put the bees in these boxes, and
is thus done :—Cover the perforated zinc over with some material
that will darken the interior of the box, placing it upon a large
board, or table, the lid downwards; the box is now opened
about an inch, and kept in that position by propping it up with
a couple of blocks, one on each side. The bees are then
shaken down in front of this box, and they will all run in peace-
ably ; when they have done so, shut the box, drive a few
nails in the lid to hold it firm, and cord it tightly. When a
great number have to be packed in boxes, a large tin funnel is
used. The bees are shot into this; the sides being smooth
afford no foothold to them, and they are thus precipitated into
the box, which can then be quickly fastened down.

116. Packing Queens for Travelling.—Queens can be
sent with perfect safety for considerable distances. To any part
of the British Isles is but a simple matter. We are constantly
exporting them to all our colonies, and have had the satisfaction
of successfully sending them to Persia, a journey occupying over
a month, and the greater part of the route being overland in a
very hot climate. For particulars of a convenient travelling-box
that may be used for short distances, say, three or four days’
journey, see paragraph 67.

MANIPULATING, 69

117. Robbing.— Bees are by nature inveterate robbers.
While honey is coming in plentifully, no robbing will take place ;
but at those seasons when from dearth of blossoms of honey-
producing plants nectar cannot be obtained, an exceedingly
strong desire seems to possess every bee to obtain that or a sub-
stitute in any manner possible. Any bee-keeper who has once
had experience of a determined case of robbing in an apiary
of any size will not soon forget it. The air is alive with bees
dashing about in all directions with angry hiss. Around the
entrances of the hives the condition of things is worse, fighting,
stinging, and struggling taking place as if their very existence
depended upon the amount of damage they could do in a given
time. The killed are cast down to the ground in hundreds,
whilst all around the combatants are struggling in each other’s
embrace. Woe betide the apiarist who endeavours to go among
this turbulent crowd without some protection in the shape of
veil; any living creature will be sure to receive a more than
fair allowance of the bees’ spite. This condition of things
is usually the fault or accident of the bee-keeper; some honey
laid about, or syrup spilt, perhaps a hive carelessly left uncovered.
Before robbing has grown to such an extent, the fact should
have been found out by the bee-keeper—it could then very easily
be stopped; but when such dimensions have been reached, it is
an exceedingly difficult job. It is very rarely we hear of such
wholesale robbery, as when a knowledge is gained of the time
of year when such is likely to take place extra precautions are
observed. It will, therefore, be to the bee-keeper’s advantage if
he keeps a very sharp look-out just after the close of the honey
flow and until cold weather sets in. Very little trouble need be
taken with strong colonies—these will usually look after their own
interests; but in the case of weak ones or nuclei, their entrances
must be contracted at once to about two bee-space width, and the
greatest care must be taken that no honey, honey-comb (having
honey or the smell of such attached to it), syrup, or freshly ex-
pelled larvee lay about the apiary. Where a hive is being attacked
a tuft of grass laid against the entrance will often baffle the
marauders, as in attempting to gain an entrance the besieged can
tackle them singly in the labyrinth of grass blades. Carbolic
acid smeared on the alighting-board and around the entrance will
have a good effect; but where none of these will stop the strife,
a carbolised sheet thrown completely over the attacked colony,
and left on until just before nightfall, will usually overcome the
attentions of the besiegers. Where such will not answer—this
is exceedingly rare — the hive must be moved into a dark cool cellar
or shed (the inmates being fastened in with perforated zinc), and
not returned to its original stand for at least two days, during
which time the enemy will have forgotten all about it. The
time of season when robbing is likely to take place is in spring,

7O THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

before honey commences to come in, in autumn after the flow
has ceased, or in the interim between the cessation of one
description of flower blossom and the commencement of another.
Spring robbing is quite a mild affair as compared with autumn.
In an apiary where many hives are kept, the application of the
tuft of grass, contracted entrances or carbolised sheet will be
found most effectual. ‘Prevention is better than cure”—take
the precautions we have advised, keep all colonies strong, and
be sure no queenless stocks remain in the apiary, and any
serious case of robbing will be unknown.

118. Loss of Mother (Queen) Bee.—The absence of the
queen from a hive before the honey-flow takes place is a very
serious consideration—in fact it is so at any time, with the
exception of very late in the season, when a hive can be queenless
for some considerable time without any very serious consequences
resulting; but it is advisable to have a young, strong, and
fertile queen in the hive at all times. The age of the queen
ought very rarely to exceed two years. There are cases when
a queen in her third year is as prolific as in her second ; such
a one should be preserved, if only for rearing others from.
Queens are lost in a variety of ways, frequently, when flying
to meet the drone, failing, on returning, to enter their own hive.
Especially is this so when a number of hives are collected close
together, and all are of one shape and colour. Birds occasionally
catch and kill a queen. Queens whose wings have become
damaged are unabie to fly, and so drop upon the ground when
swarming takes place, and are thus frequently lost; or in the
case of a virgin queen whose wings are imperfectly developed,
the same accident may take place. The loss of a virgin queen
from a hive which has recently swarmed is a very serious accident,
as there are frequently no larve young enough to raise into a
queen, and such a colony must dwindle away and die. Colonies
frequently become queenless in late autumn and in early spring
through being over-manipulated. Manipulate as little as possible
at these times, and always with great care; do not excite the
bees too much. Some thin warm syrup poured between the
combs before handling will prevent the loss of the queen at these
seasons by what is termed “balling.” This is the cause of
numbers of colonies becoming queenless. Queens usually live
about four years, and when their powers of reproduction visibly
commence to fail, the workers supersede them, killing the queen
and rearing another in her place.

119. Balling.—When a hive is over- manipulated in the
autumn or spring, it will sometimes occur that the workers will
form a compact mass around the queen, like a ball the
size of a walnut, and will thus suffocate her, unless she is released
from their embrace. This is called “ Balling.” When it is

MANIPULATING. 71

observed, some thin, warm honey should be dropped freely on
the ball: this will cause them to release their prisoner; she
must then be placed in a cage for a day, or until the bees will
receive her again in a proper manner. Usually, in such cases,
they will receive her directly they have quieted down. When
a queen is balled she very rarely recovers from the rough
usage, unless she is released soon after it takes place.
“Balling” is the usual method of bees of taking the life of a
queen, although they sometimes sting her to death.

120. Obtaining a Knowledge of a Queenless Colony.
—A queenless colony can be detected from outside as easily as
from inside appearances, except in late autumn, when it is rather
difficult. “ Almost directly a queen is removed from a hive the
bees become restless, running about in all directions in front of
the hive and on the alighting-board, flying a few feet from the
hive and returning again at once; they seem to be searching for
something which they cannot find. This is more noticeable when
all other hives in the apiary are quiet. These proceedings will
last for a varying period. In the event of there being plenty of
young larvee in the hive, they will not prosecute their search for
any considerable time, but will commence making queen-cells and
rearing another queen; but where they have no chances of rear-
ing another they are uneasy for the rest of their existence unless
provided with one, and will search around the entrance for
days. No work will be done, an air of laziness pervades the
hive, pollen is rarely carried in, or, if it is, in very small quan-
tities, the pellets being about a quarter their normal size. The
inmates, instead of flying from the entrance with a quick dart,
listlessly crawl forth, take just a little turn round, and go
back again; there is no rushing or tumbling over each other on
returning with a load, as a colony in a normal state, but a drowsy,
sleepy look seems to settle upon all the community. Queens
sometimes die naturally; this is more frequently the case in the
winter, and is then very easily detected, as upon the hive being
opened in the spring, the absence of brood is an unfailing sign.
The loss of a queen in late summer can frequently be dis-
covered by the colony allowing the drones to live, and they will
then tolerate their presence all through winter if they are allowed
to remain queenless.

121. What to Do with a Queenless Stock.—In spring a
queenless colony must be united to one having a queen (see “ Unit-
ing,” pars. 94 and 95), as then spare queens are most difficult to
obtain. In summer the advanced bee-keeper will have ready some
spare queens; one of these must be introduced directly on dis-
covering the loss. In autumn either unite to a colony possessing
a mother, or introduce a queen. In autumn queens can be
obtained in any quantity from dealers. A very good plan is to

72 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

drive a skep for anyone who wishes to take the honey, and unite
these driven bees to the queenless colony. Always examine a
colony eleven or twelve days after the issue of a swarm, to see
that it is not queenless.

122. Queen-rearing.—If the queen is old and unprolific the
colony must dwindle, as the number of eggs laid is not in pro-
portion to the natural decay of its numerous members. A prolific
queen, in early summer, will lay so many eggs that the stock
will become over-populous ; this is just what the bee-keeper wants,
as, by enlarging the hive just at that time, he has a number of
willing workers ready to carry in the harvest awaiting for them
in the pastures. But if an unprolific queen is in the hive,
instead of increasing in numbers as the harvest time advances,
the bees, by their indefatigable industry in endeavouring to
bring in as much as they possibly can, dwindle gradually away
by the extra exertions imposed upon themselves, and get less
and less in numbers. As the colony gets smaller and smaller its
members, in proportion, relax in their efforts and quickly lose
heart, becoming an encumbrance in the apiary instead of a use.
Presuming that such a queen is unprolific from some physical
failing and not from old age, it would be most unwise to remove
her and allow the colony to raise another from eggs laid by
this one, as her failings would, without doubt, be perpetuated in
after generations; it therefore becomes incumbent upon the
bee-keeper to rear queens from specially-selected mothers that
have shown their superiority in the apiary. Too much emphasis
cannot be laid upon the fact that it is also of the utmost import-
ance that all drones should be reared from mothers showing a
marked superiority.

When a swarm issues from a hive the colony remains mother-
less for a period sometimes extending to three weeks, and, in
the case of a queen dying, to a period not less than three weeks ;
here is seen the utility of the apiarist having a supply of queens
ready at any moment to introduce to a colony that has lost its
queen, as then the prosperity of the hive is not hindered by
any cessation of egg-laying which must take place if there is
no queen. Swarming usually taking place just as the honey-
flow sets in, a diminution in the numbers of a colony means an
equal falling off in the amount of honey brought into the hive.

Then, again, in rearing queens it is desirable to mate them with
selected drones; but this, owing to the peculiar nature of their
fertilisation, is a very difficult matter. Under ordinary circum-
stances the selection of drones is not of so much importance, owing
to the fact that a colony, before rearing them, is sure to be in
a prosperous condition. A poor colony, in a normal condition,
will rarely rear drones, thus reducing the chances of any virgin
queen being mated with the produce of an inferior queen.

MANIPULATING. 73

Another point to be observed in rearing queens is the desir-
ability of selecting mothers from colonies whose character of
amiability is well marked. Often colonies will be so vicious
that it is very unpleasant even for an adept to handle them ; from
such queens should not be reared, as the irritability of the
mother seems usually to be developed in her progeny.

From the foregoing it is seen that it is much the best plan to
have the queens mated with selected drones, as well as reared
from special mothers. To accomplish this, we must so arrange
the time of departure of the queen on her wedding flight that
the selected drones only are flying at that time. Among the
different plans for so doing none have been, up to the present,
introduced that fulfil all the conditions necessary to ensure success.
Causing a colony to raise drones before other colonies have done
so is frequently advocated. We can always ensure a colony rearing
queens, but not so drones. We must begin by stiniulating a
strong colony (see “Feeding,” pars. 101 and 102) very early, and
when the hive is crowded with bees, a frame containing drone-
comb is inserted in the middle of the brood-nest ; the queen will
then most likely lay drone-eggs in it. In twenty-five days there
will be drones in the hive ; these ought to leave their cells about
the middle of April, or as much before that time as possible.
Feeding must be kept up all the time they are in the hive, until
the honey-flow sets in, or very likely they will be killed by the
bees. When the drones are on the point of emerging from their
cells, another hive, which has been stimulated in the same
manner, is deprived of the queen, she being given to a hive that
has an inferior one. The bees will at once commence to raise
queen-cells ; but if they are allowed to do so without any assist-
ance from the bee-keeper, they will so arrange them on the comb
that they will be most difficult of removal without damage. In
handling a queen-cell the greatest care must be taken, as the
occupant is exceedingly tender; it should always be handled by
the piece of comb left attached when cutting it out of the comb.
In order that the cells may be built in positions as the bee-
keeper desires, a new comb is obtained, and placed in the middle
of the brood-nest of a hive from which it is wished to raise queens.
In about three or four days this is removed; it will then be found
partially filled with eggs. Quite in the middle of these eggs
an oblong hole or holes are cut, not less than an inch deep;
these are so made that along the top edge a row of cells is left,
having eggs or very young larve in them. Every other one of
these eggs or larve must be destroyed, by twisting the end of
a lucifer or drugget-pin against the bottom of the cell, and those
cells with eggs that are left should be enlarged at their entrances,
by means of a small cone pushed gently in. The row of cells
on the reverse side of the comb must have all the eggs or larvae
destroyed. The effect of these proceedings is as follows:

74 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

Each cell having an egg or larvee in it will be formed by the
bees into a queen-cell, as they are just in the position that
seems most desired by the bees for that purpose. As there is
an egg only in every other one of the cells, there is sufficient
space left for the queen-cell to be completed without its being
made to adhere to its next neighbour ; it can therefore be cut
out without interfering or damaging any of those contiguous to
it. The queen-cells are sure to be built on this comb, as bees,
when they have the opportunity, always choose a new one for
this purpose. There may be one or two cells built on the other
combs, and these can be removed when wanted. In ten days,
when this comb is removed, a row of queen-cells will be hanging
regularly along from the top edge of the holes cut in it; it will
then be time to transfer these to nucleus-hives.

123. Nucleus-colonies.—A nucleus-colony, as its name de-
notes, is a commencement or small colony of bees, and is formed
thus : Having obtained a hive of a size to take three frames—
an ordinary hive contracted by its division-board will do—three
combs from a populous colony, with the adhering bees, are
placed in it, the greatest care being taken that the queen is
not put in with the bees; it is then covered up, and left for a
day. When this time has elapsed, it must be examined to see
whether too many of the bees have left to join the old stock; if
so, a frame of bees must be shaken in with the others. It is
much the safest plan to do this when the frames are first put
in, as there are sure to be some old bees who, when they fly
out, will discover their original home, and will thus desert the
nucleus. The combs should have both brood and honey in
them—the two outside ones honey, and the middle one
brood and eggs. It is inadvisable to have brood in the outside
of the two side combs, as it is almost sure to get chilled. The
nucleus is then ready for the reception of the queen-cells. as
by this time the bees will have discovered that they are without
a queen.

The queen-cells must now be cut out of the comb by means
of a very thin, sharp knife. By some bee-keepers it is advised
to cut a hole in one of the combs of the nucleus and insert
the queen-cell in the hole so made; but this damages the
comb. The best plan is to get a cone-shaped piece of wood,
using it as a mandril, and wind some No. 20 iron wire round
it so as to make a spiral cage of sufficient size to only just
contain the cell; then place the same, with the cell within it,
between two bars of the nucleus. The top end of the spiral
wire being bent at right angles prevents it from slipping down
between the frames. The opening in the thin end of the spiral
cage must be zin. in diameter to allow of the egress of the
future mother from the cell into the hive. Draw the frames

MANIPULATING. 75

close together and cover up. This plan is so much handier,
as, if it is desired at any time to examine the cell, this can be
done by simply turning back the quilt, so very slightly dis-
turbing the bees; it is also in the warmest portion—the top—
of the hive.

In about two days—the fifteenth or sixteenth from the day
the egg was laid—the virgin queen will come forth. She will
then stay in the hive for a varying period, extending from
three to seven or eight days, and on the afternoon of a
bright, warm, sunny day, she will fly from the hive, but usually
for only a couple of minutes, during which time she is taking
notes of the surroundings, that she may return in safety
to the right hive. Returning again, she will in a few
minutes take another flight, and will do this every suitable
afternoon for some days until she meets the drone (this taking
place high up in the air) and afterwards returns to the hive.
During the remainder of the afternoon of this day she will
continually fly in and out of the hive, but never leave it after
again unless it is to accompany a swarm. In about three days
she commences to lay eggs. The bee-keeper will thus have a
fertile queen ready to introduce to any colony requiring one;
and if the drones have been reared before any others have
been so in other hives, the queen will be fertilised by a selected
one.

The fertilisation of queens by selected drones at other
seasons of the year is very uncertain. We will give the best
methods to be adopted to accomplish this end under these dis-
advantageous circumstances. Upon the evening before the
queen is expected to fly, all the nuclei, together with the hive
containing the drones, are removed from their stands, placed
in a cool, perfectly dark place—the entrances of hives being
closed with perforated zinc—and left until the following day
about 5.30 or 6 p.m. They are then brought out, and placed
on their respective stands. On no account intermix them. As
the drones from all other colonies have ceased flying, or are
just returning, at this time a good chance is obtained of
getting the queens properly fertilised. When the hives have all
been placed in position—-which must be so that the sun shines
directly in the entrances—a little honey is smeared just at the
flight-holes of the nuclei, and some thin, warm honey poured
over the frames of the hive containing the drones; this raises
a great commotion in the hive, and consequent increase of
temperature. The drones will then fly forth, and the queens like-
wise. It is very easy to get the queens to fly out, but more
difficulty is experienced in getting the drones to do so. Some-
times it is expedient, if they will not fly, to lift out a frame,
and toss them in the air; but do not do so if there is a possi-
bility of their flying without such extreme measures.

76 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

A few cautions anent queen-rearing are advisable. Never
expose queen-cells in the direct rays of the sun, nor in cold air
or wind, for any length of time. Do not violently shake or turn
upside down a frame having queen-cells in it. Never leave a
nucleus, before the queen is mated, without wscafped brood and
honey. If it is required to remove the bees from off a comb
having queen-cells, they must be brushed off, not shaken. Always
keep entrances of nuclei contracted to about two bee-space
width. If a queen-cell is destroyed by having its side torn
open, there is most likely to be a queen already in the hive.
A second cell can be given to a nucleus if the first is destroyed
or its occupant dies, as also another cell after a queen has been
removed, provided its strength has been kept up by the
addition of brood.

124. Queen-introduction.—A colony that has lost its queen
can be re-queened very easily if certain precautions are taken
when placing her in the hive, or, as it is usually termed, “intro-
ducing” her. If these precautions are not taken, the bees will
certainly kill any alien queen that may enter; there have been
a few exceptions to this rule in the case of queenless colonies.
For many years the only system advocated and adopted was
by caging. This was performed by inclosing the queen in a
cage made for the purpose, and allowing her to remain thus
protected from the assaults of the inhabitants in the hive for
about two days. On the expiration of this time the bees had
got acquainted with her, and when released she would be accepted
by them with the usual tokens of filial respect. Caging is not the
perfection of queen introduction, though for a novice it is about
the safest method. Often, while confined, the mother-bee may
poke a leg through the bars of the cage; this is instantly seized by
some of the crowd of irritated bees who thickly surround the cage
containing her, and it may be torn off. Although the actual loss
of a portion of a leg does not seem to affect her prolificacy, yet the
whole of the leg, even to a part of her body, has been known to
be torn away and death result. To get over this difficulty seems
to be impossible; therefore, we must remember that with queen-
introduction a certain loss of mothers is inevitable. We have
been most successful with the system called “direct queen-intro-
duction,” though in the case of novices results are not always as
satisfactory as with us. The first style of cave introduced was
the ‘‘pipe-cover” cage; this is a dome of wire net soldered on to
a narrow rim of thin tin, about 14in. in diameter. When a mother-
bee is to be introduced she is placed in the cage, and then the
cage is slipped on toa piece of cardboard. It is placed in its
position on the face of the comb, the card is gently withdrawn, and
the cage pressed with a scfewing motion into the comb, until
firmly fixed. The mother-bee is allowed to remain thus imprisoned

MANIPULATING. 77

for forty-eight hours, and then released. This system entails a lot
of trouble, as the comb has to be removed from the hive twice,
and at the first removal the greater part of the bees must be
brushed off. The next style of cage is better; it is called by
several names, but the illustration (cut, page 77) will give an idea
as to its appearance and make, though it does not in the engraving
appear nearly long enough. This cage should be qin. in length,
tin. broad, and in. thick. It is made of perforated tin or zinc,
and is placed between two combs, the flange on the top resting on
the tops of the frames. When the mother-bee is to be released,
the wire on the top is pressed down; this opens the door at the
bottom and she walks forth into the hive. Yet another form of
cage we have found most successful and cheap. It is made as
follows : Obtain a piece of wire cloth, the
same as that used for wire bee-veils, make
a tube of the same dimensions as those
given for the preceding one, also two
wooden plugs, fitting fairly tightly, to close
top and bottom, as a cork in a bottle;
into the bottom plug insert a piece of wire,
so that it passes close along the inner side
of the cage and out at the top, at the side
of the top plug. Place on the top of
the bottom plug a piece of “Good” Queen Cage.
candy (this is made by mixing icing sugar

and warm honey together to the consistency of putty); remove
the top plug and put in the mother-bee, replacing the plug to
keep her in. Now bend the free end of the wire at right angles
to the cage; this prevents its slipping down between the combs.
With a knife uncap some of the honey-cells at the top of one of
the combs, and place the cage with its flat side close against
where the honey is so exposed; this, together with the “Good”
candy, provides food for the mother while she is imprisoned,
previous to the bees feeding her through the bars of her cage.
Now push up the frames close together, cover up the quilts, and
leave her for forty-eight hours. To release her, bend up the wire,
which must be, fairly thin, take hold of the top of the cage
between the finger and thumb, and press the wire down: this will
push out the bottom plug and so release the mother-bee.

125. Direct Queen-introduction.—This system is fre-
quently called the “Pond-Simmins.” It is almost perfection,
or as near that as it is possible to get. We have introduced
hundreds of queens with but few failures—not 5 per cent.,
and not nearly as many as by means of a cage—with much
less trouble, and also—which is of far greater importance—saving
two days’ breeding by the queen. It is a very simple manipulation,
and is thus performed : Remove the queen to be superseded from
the hive about 9 or Io a.m., then cover up properly, and leave the

78 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

colony undisturbed until about 9 p.m., or some time after
darkness has set in. Take the queen that is to be introduced
and place her in a small box, alone and without food, keeping
her thus for not less than half an hour. While she is im-
prisoned great care must be taken that she is not chilled; it
is a good plan to place the box containing the queen under
the waistcoat to prevent such an accident. Now get a lantern, go
‘to the hive and turn up a corner of the quilt; drive the bees
that come to see what is going on back with a puff from the
fumigator, and allow the queen to run in between the combs.
Be very careful to keep a sharp look-out that she does run
down, as frequently she will get in the folds of the quilt, or
under the lugs of the frames. The best method of putting her
in is to place a card under the open reversed box, then lay it
on top of the frames and slip the card away; for this purpose
a little glass-topped box is preferable, as then one can see all
her actions after the card has been withdrawn. Now cover up
the hive, and do not disturb it again for at least forty-eight
hours. If you are very impatient to know whether the queen
has been received properly, spread a sack or cloth in front, and
under the entrance of the hive, before the introduction. If she is
killed, you will find her lying on this cloth the next morning ; but
you will, if the above directions are strictly adhered to, no doubt
have to look for her in vain. Other systems of introducing
queens come more properly under the denomination of “Uniting”
(see pars. 94 to 98).

126. Placing Supers on Hive.—There may be, perhaps,
with many, very little importance attached to the manner in which
supers are placed on a hive; in fact, we are well aware that in
dozens of cases they are simply “clapt” on, the cover replaced,
and then left to their (or rather the bees’) fate. No notice of
season is taken: they may be put on in March, if there are a
few fine days, or in July, when most of the harvest is over.
What is required is observation. When colonies are strong—which
means that they must be thickly packed with bees on at least
ten frames—it will be time to think of supers. If there are but
few flowers blossoming, do not trouble to examine the bees: but
as soon as the meadows and hedgerows begin to be well
sprinkled with the advance guard of the army of wild flowers
to follow, then remove the quilt from off the frames, and note
whether the cells on top of the combs are beginning to be
elongated. This can easily be seen by the new (white) wax
with which the bees are adding to the walls, that they may
accommodate the precious nectar that is then commencing to
be produced by the flowers; if this is so, the supers must be
put on at once. If a section-rack is to be the super, after
removing the quilt, place it on top of the frames; it will then

MANIPULATING. 79

be found that it does not entirely cover the frames. Along the
side the spacings between the frames are open; if this is left so—
and we have found hundreds of such cases—the heat from the
bees ascends into the roof of the hive instead of the super. The
bees are thus exposed to quite a cold current of air, which is
frequently sufficient to prevent their going up in the super or
building combs in the sections ; therefore, strips of some warm
material must be laid along each side, and the quilts placed on
top of the rack, to economise the warmth and to prevent the
bees getting inside the roof of the hive. The super must
now be wrapped up as warm as possible, to prevent any sudden
change in the outside temperature being felt within it. If a
super is ill-protected, the bees will, on a cold night, descend
into the body of the hive for warmth. By this all work is
suspended in the super during this time, and it will be quite
late in the morning before it will be again filled with the bees,
a loss of twelve hours out of the twenty-four being the result.
Bees work almost as energetically between sunset and sunrise
as they do during the day; but this work is confined to the
inside of the hive, such as comb-building, feeding larva, evapo-
rating and sealing over honey. Some racks are made with wood
flanges to take the place of the strips of quilting laid along the
side ; these will be found a very serious drawback, as much more
space is thus given the bees to propolise, the racks being so
firmly glued down that it is quite a labour to remove them, as
well as causing great irritation to the bees when so doing.
When large supers are used (not being sectional), excluder zinc
is placed between them
and tops of frames ; but
with sectional racks it
is the best plan to dis-
card it, thus allowing
a freer passage for the
bees into the supers ; Slotted Separator (No. 2).

for reasons of this see

“ Queen and Drone-Excluder ” (par. 58). Where four-bee-way
sections are used in racks, slotted separators (as illustration) must
be used.

127. Removing Supers from Hives.—This manipulation,
until we introduced the “Super-clearer,” was always a rather
serious task for the novice, by reason of the large numbers of
bees present that had to be contended with, though at the season
when it is necessary to do this the bees are a rule in their gentlest
mood ; that is, during the honey flow. In the case of sectional
supers, never remove just one or two or a part of the sections
from a section rack, as is often done, for nothing discourages the
bees more than this; in fact, we have often found them discontinue

80 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

work in the super for the rest of the season when treated in this
fashion. A very good motto to remember is “ Handle supers, not
sections.” When “tiering up” (see par. 128) it is necessary to re-
move the super or supers ; this is also necessary when it is desired
to put the super-clearer in position, so that almost the same direc-
tions will apply in either case. First provide yourself with a strong
screw-driver, some pieces of broken section, and your subjugating
cloths. Very quietly insert the end of the screw-driver between the
super and the frames at one of the back corners, prise the super up
very gently, and slip one of the pieces of broken section under ;
now serve the opposite corner in the same manner. Perhaps one or
more of the frames will be stuck fast to the bottom of the super,
and if you prise the super up much higher, the frame or frames
will break away and drop back into their place with a sudden jerk ;
if they do, cover the hive up and leave it for an hour or so as the
bees will instantly endeavour to avenge such rough treatment. This
accident will make the most mild-tempered bees vicious. To
prevent such an occurrence prise the super up about din. at
one end, and then notice if by so doing you lift any of the frames ;
if so, very gently push them into their place by pressing upon the
lugs of same. Now you have loosened the super, which is raised
by means of the pieces of broken section, away from the frame
tops, leave it thus for about five minutes, the bees will then be
busily engaged in clearing up the little honey which is sure to be
exposed owing to the breaking away of the super from the frames.
Now, bodily and quietly lift off the super either to put another on
or to put on the super-clearer. No subjugation is really necessary at
the time of “tiering-up,” as the bees will then be bringing in honey
very fast and so will be in an amiable temper; also, it is inadvisable
at such a time to drive the bees out from the super as will be done
by subjugation. But when it is desired to remove a full super a
subjugating cloth should be spread right over the top, in the place
of the quilts, fora few seconds or until you can put the super-
clearer under ; it must then be removed and the hive left until the
super is tree from bees. The most noticeable effect when using a
super-clearer is that the sections will never be damaged (“ pin-
holed”) by the bees, as they always are, more or less, especially
towards the end of the honey flow, when such an appliance is not
used. The bees are in an almost normal condition during their
exodus, as they have direct communication through the trap of the
super-clearer with their comrades in the body of the hive, and only
vacate the super when passing from super to body-box. Any odd
super, such as a skep super, can be cleared of bees by putting a
super-clearer over its mouth, thus allowing them to escape through
the trap but preventing their re-entrance; or by placing the
super to be cleared of bees in a box of sufficient size to accom-
modate it, and using the clearer as a lid to the box, in a
couple of hours the super will be clear.

MANIPULATING, 81

128. Tiering-up.—This is a system applied to the manipu-
lation of supers or sectional racks upon the hive, and is without
doubt the most effectual method whereby swarming can be
retarded to a great extent, or almost entirely prevented. The idea
of using supers in this manner is that a sort of telescopic power
can be given the hive, and it is this power that forms the
fundamental principle whereby non-swarming results are obtained.
It must be the apiarist’s chief aim in supering upon these lines
that just a trifle more room is allowed in the hive than the
then present necessities of the bees require ; hence, their natural
aptitude for entirely filling their hive with combs, honey, and
brood before swarming, is allowed to absorb their attentions
instead of swarming. Presuming that a hive has one rack of
sections on, and this almost full, the bees, on account of there
being little or no more work to do, would swarm; but if
‘just before this event takes place—that is, when the rack is
about three-quarters full—it is removed, bees and all, a fresh
rack put on in its place, and the removed one placed on top,
a space is given the bees to fill, and they start work in the
lower, at the same time completing that in the upper, rack.
By this arrangement, removing the top storey when full, rais-
ing the lower one when three-quarters full, and placing an
empty one underneath, the hive is kept just too large for
the bees’ requirements, and the work progresses at a rapid rate.
When the honey season is at its highest, on the enlargement
taking place the bees will build comb and store it with almost
the vigour that characterises a new swarm. In some cases three
and even four racks can be piled one on top of the other—we
have on some occasions had as many as five—thus giving
sufficient room for large quantities of freshly-gathered honey to
be evaporated at the same time; if this storage space was not
provided by the apiarist, the bees would most likely swarm, but
upon their being thus provided for all ideas of an exodus will
be given up.

129. Doubling and Storifying.—The first is a plan for
obtaining extracted honey, and is a very effectual means of
obtaining an apparently large return from a single colony ; but
two colonies are used in order to carry out this system. The
hive to be doubled is one that has a sufficient capacity, or
can be so enlarged that it will accommodate two or more rows
of frames on top of each other. This hive having been brought
to a very populous condition is, just before the honey flow sets
in, provided with an upper storey. Another hive in as equally
a prolific condition is deprived of its brood ; the frames being taken
out, the bees are shaken off back into their hive, and afterwards
provided with sheets of foundation, or other combs, and treated
exactly asa swarm, The removed brood is then placed in the upper

G

82 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING,.

storey of the first hive, the quilts being taken from off its frames, and
placed on top of the upper one. A quantity of the bees from
the lower will ascend into the upper storey and rear the brood ;
this, continually hatching, will provide a large population, who
will hasten to bring in the harvest, storing it away in those
cells recently vacated by the brood; thus, the combs on
top act as a super, the honey being extracted from them as
soon as sealed over. In some cases, directly all the brood
has hatched out, a third storey with combs is_ placed
between first and second; this, together with the lower, will
be used by the queen for breeding in ; the upper one, after being
extracted from, is placed beneath the second tier. Four rows
of frames in some districts can be used, but a stock to be able
to fill this number must be exceptionally prolific, and the country
around a good honey-producing one. We do not recommend
this system, as the honey is usually not of so good a colour—a
very important factor in the sale of same—as that from shallow-
frame supers.

130. Working with Shallow-frame.Supers.—Extracted
honey is far superior in colour, flavour, and aroma, if produced
in the most modern form, 2.2. by using shallow-frame supers.
Considerable opposition was offered to this system when first
introduced some few years ago, but the great superiority of the
product when stored in these appliances has very rapidly overcome
the opposition to their use. The cause of this opposition was the,
at first sight, very natural one of having two different-sized frames
in the apiary. Now, if it were proposed to have two different
sized body-box frames the opposers would have very good
grounds for their opposition, the reason being that the body-
box frames of one hive would not be interchangeable with the
body-box of another hive. With shallow frames we know
that these simply belong to the supers, while the standard-size
frames belong to the body-boxes only ; that is, one description
of frame fits supers only, the other size body-boxes only, in just
the same manner as sections fit supers and standard-frames
fit body-boxes. As a matter of fact the shallow-frame supers have
come to stay for good. A shallow-frame super can be used to
produce honey in combs of varying thicknesses. This is accom-
plished by spacing the frames further apart, so that the bees
have plenty of room to elongate their cells on each side of the
septum (midrib) of a comb (see “Metal Ends,” paragraph 68,
page 40). It is well known among apiarists that bees when
storing their honey elongate their cells, where there is suf-
ficient space to do so, almost indefinitely. We have measured
a cell just over 2in. in depth as against the normal size of a
little over Zin. The advantage ot having these thick combs
is that a larger quantity of honey can be stored in proportion to

MANIPULATING. 83

the amount of comb (wax) used. A lesser amount of labour is en-
tailed when uncapping, as it is necessary to uncap ten combs of a
normal width as against eight wide-spaced, and each lot contains
about the same weight of honey; this, all must agree, is a very
important item. The disadvantage of the wide spacing is that it
does not answer so well as the narrow during bad seasons, or in
districts where the honey-flow is not very extensive ; it requires
a rapid flow of honey to fill them as they should be: therefore, it
is the best plan in poor districts to use the ten-frame or normally-
spaced super. With shallow frame supers, or any other that is
not sectional (containing sections), a sheet of excluder zinc must
be laid flatly on top of the frames, the holes of such being parallel
with the bars of the frames. These supers are “tiered up” i
exactly the same manner as that recommended for supering with
section-racks.

131. Condemned or Driven Bees—Bumping.—Allusion
has been made in par. 94 to condemned bees. These at certain
times are of great utility to the modern bee-keeper. For genera-
tions it has been the practice of keepers of bees to kill their
charges at the end of autumn—by suffocating them with burning
sulphur—in order to obtain the honey collected by them during the
preceding season The straw- skeppist usually “takes up,” or, as
it is called in the North, “smeakes ”—z.¢., kills—his bees about
September, quite a long time after the honey flow has ceased, and
so obtains less honey from them than he would have done if
taken shortly after this event. It would be much better if he
allowed some expert bee-master to drive his bees about the
commencement of August, excepting in places where heather or
buckwheat grows, when it would have to be done about the
first or second week in September. There are two methods
of obtaining condemned bees; the first is by the ordinary
method of Driving (par. 90), and the other by “bumping.”
This latter is much the more expeditious of the two, and is
thus performed: Go to the hives and stop up all the entrances
—both those that have and those that have not to be taken
—with a tuft of grass placed in lengthways, not screwed up
anyhow, or a piece of perforated zinc; then give the first hive to
be operated upon a few puffs with the fumigator, replace the
grass, and with the open hands regularly tap the outside until
a great commotion is heard within; then allow them to remain
for two or three minutes, withdraw the grass, give a few more
puffs, and gently turn the skep upside down. If there are any
sticks through the hive, these must be withdrawn with a pair of
pincers. Now drive the bees down from the tops of the combs, and
raising the skep up in the two hands, “bump” it upon the ground in
the exact position shown in the engraving; this will break the
attachments of the combs from the roof and sides of the hive

G2

84 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

The combs are lifted out one by one—the bees brushed back into
the hive—and when free from bees laid in a pan having a cloth
to cover over, as each comb is put in, to prevent the ingress of
any flying bees. After thus treating all the combs, the hive
containing the bees
is to be placed in
its original position
for a time, in order
to collect the flying
bees. Treat every
hive to be taken in
this manner, and
allow the bees to
settle quietly ; then
throw two lots into
one, by placing two
of the skeps mouth
to mouth, and jerk-

, ing them suddenly
Method of Removing Comb from Hive by Bumping. on the ground.
Cover over the
lower one (having now all the bees in it) with a piece of
strainer-cloth, and tie firmly round with string.

One or two cautions must here be given. Be particularly careful
that all stocks are healthy. Do not “bump” exceptionally full
colonies having combs heavily laden with honey, without driving
a rortion of the bees out first. Any very deep hives had better be
driven, as frequently the combs break in the middle, especially
if it is a warm day and the combs new. Remove all stoppings
from entrances of other hives when the work is finished. En-
deavour to take condemned bees during late afternoon or early
evening. Leave no litter about the place, and if robbing should
happen to commence very seriously, leave off, or the owner will
think little of the taker’s expertness. These bees can be made up
into strong colonies for the next season by placing them upon ready-
built combs and feeding up as fast as possible, using the feeder
described in par. 59. A good many bee-keepers have an idea that
condemned bees can be placed in an empty hive, fed up, and then
come out the next spring in as good a condition as stocks ; this is
an egregious blunder, as all their stamina is wasted by the extra
amount of work imposed upon them by comb-building. They
must be put on fully built-out combs if the greatest advantages
are to be reaped from them. Foundation alone is almost as
bad as empty hives, but foundation alternated with full combs,
if the bees are put in early in the season, answers very well. Con-
demned bees can be used to strengthen weak colonies before the
winter sets in, as also provide queens for queenless stocks, and
increase the numbers in nuclei to form stocks (see “ Uniting,

pars. 94 to 97).

a

HONEY. 85

132. Wiring Foundation.—All foundation for the body-
box is best wired into the frames; not only is it less liable to
“sag,” but straight combs are always the result. Foundation
can be bought ready wired, but it is much more expensive, and
less effective than if made as described in par. 85.

XI.—HONEY.

_133. Extracting Honey from Supers.—This descrip-
tion of extracting is the one usually practised. Some, but very
few, bee-keepers extract from the combs having brood in them;
this is greatly to be condemned. Not only is there a great chance
of killing the brood, either by chilling it or throwing it out of
the cells, but the honey gets soiled with lacerated brood and
pollen. Having removed a quantity of sealed honeycombs from
the doubling hive, and jerked and brushed the bees from off
them back into the hive, replace them with empty combs, allowing
the unsealed ones to remain in, placing them in the centre of
the empties. Take the full combs indoors, preferably in a warm
room. Have ready a pair of un-
capping knives, a jug of hot water,
a pan for the cappings, and the
honey extractor nicely cleaned out.
With a few combs these are all Uncapping Knife.

the requisites necessary, but where

a large number have to be extracted it is essential that
you have, instead of a jug of hot water, some receptacle that
will keep the water at about 140degs. Fahr., or long before you
have finished uncapping the water will be too cold. Place the
knives in the hot water, but before doing so see that they have a
very sharp edge. Now hold a frame by one corner, resting the
bottom corner in a dish, and then, with one of the knives, make a
shaving sort of cut upwards, and just underneath the cappings ;
these will come off in a sheet, and lay upon the broad blade of the
knife. As soon as the knife begins to drag, replace it in the
hot water and use the other. Having removed all the cappings
from one side, turn the comb, and uncap the other, and place
it, when finished, in the cage of the extractor. Take another comb,
and, after uncapping, place it in the opposite cage of extractor ;
thus, having two combs will balance the cages properly. We are
presuming that a cylinder extractor is being used; the one called
“The Little Wonder” has only one cage. Now twist the handle
of the extractor, gradually increasing the speed until you hear
the honey pattering upon the sides of the tin or honey-catchers.
Keep up this speed for about half a minute, but do not increase
it. By experience will be found just the right speed necessary
to throw out the honey without damaging the combs. When one
side of each comb is finished, reverse them and extract the

86 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

other. No combs under two years old should be extracted
from, as, being so very tender, they will usually break; this
does not apply to those which have been properly wired
(par. 85); or where shallow combs have been used, as alluded
to in “Doubling” (see par. 129). After the combs have
been extracted from, they should, if it is not required to use
them again at once, be placed behind the dummy-board of the
hive, to be cleared out by the bees. Where empty combs are
not obtainable, two or three full ones can be taken from a hive
and replaced with sheets of foundation, these full ones extracted
and put in the next hive to replace full ones taken out; and
so on right through the apiary. When it is imperative that new,
unwired combs should be extracted, one side should be partially
emptied, and then the other side wholly, reversing the comb
again to finish the first side; this is a very good preventive
of breakage.

For removing the honey from partially-filled or broken sections,
a good makeshift way is to place the comb in the centre of a good-
sized piece of muslin, gather up the ends, and tie them firmly.
round with string, so as to leave the comb in a bag; then suspend
the bag in a warm place, or before a fire, with a dish underneath
to catch the honey. The comb can be crushed by the fingers
whilst in the bag. If quicker extraction is required, a weight can
be hung from the lower end of the bag. This will force the honey
through the muslin.

134. Extracting from Body-box of Hive. — This
should only be done where it is found that the queen is “ crowded
out” by the cells being loaded with honey, and then only those
combs that are free from uncapped brood ; these combs should
have the honey-cells uncapped, the honey extracted, and then
returned to the middle of the brood-nest for the queen to fill
with eggs. If it is very late in the season, be careful not to
extract all their stores, or they will have to be fed. It is not
very often that a colony will so fill the combs in the body-box
if they have been properly attended to and allowed sufficient super
room; although, just at the latter end of the season, much of the
honey is stored in the body-box. In heather districts the combs
will usually be found to be filled with honey at the end of the
season.

135. Extracting Heather Honey.—Heather honey can-
not be extracted by means of an ordinary honey extractor, it being
of so dense a nature. A press has been invented which squeezes
the comb, the honey escaping through perforated zinc and the
comb being left as a cake in the press. The cheapest form of
press is that made by Messrs. Turner and Son, and sold by most
Ironmongers as a “vegetable presser” ; it costs from Is. to 2s. 6d.
There is another, but more expensive, the invention of Mr. Raitt.

HONEY. 87

The honey coming from these appliances is very clouded with
the small particles of wax broken off by the pressure. Heather
honey is best eaten in the form of sections.

136. Treatment of Honey before Packing. — The
honey accumulated in the extractor should be strained into tall
vessels having treacle-valves at the bottom. All the cappings
and droppings from the combs should be strained into the same
receptacle, and should then be allowed to stand in a warm room
for some days. During this time—which will vary according to
the density of the honey, and also the temperature—all the
particles of wax, air-bubbles, and any thin, unripe honey that may
have been extracted will rise to the top, leaving clear, thick, well-
ripened honey at the bottom, which can then be drawn off from
the treacle-valve into nice white, clear, transparent glass bottles,
either holding 1lb. or 2lb. These bottles should be corked, and
tied over with vegetable parchment, first soaked in milk or
white of egg, and tied on damp; it will then, on drying,
stretch smoothly over the top, giving the bottle quite a nice
appearance. The bottles should then be labelled “ Pure British
Honey from the Apiary of ,” filling in the name of the
producer in the blank space. There are a large variety of honey-
labels sold, some of very good design; one description can be
bought having either English, Welsh, Scotch, or Irish Honey upon
it, according to the desire of the bee-keeper. All bottles, after
being nicely wiped, should be wrapped in bottling paper. When
extracted honey is intended for exhibition, it is usually taken
from sections, unless shallow frames are used expressly for this
purpose. After being extracted, it is heated, by means of steam
or hot water, until it has fined down and become bright ; fire heat
must on no account be used in direct contact with the bottles.
This system of heating honey is bad, as, unless a great amount
of care is exercised, nearly all the flavour is destroyed. Honey
when once highly heated rarely granulates thoroughly afterwards.

Sections after being removed from the hive should have all
propolis and brace-combs nicely scraped off; they should then
be glazed—a sheet of glass, of the exact size of the section,
placed on each side, and a strip of white paper, Zin. wider than
the section, pasted round, turning the two in. edges left over the
face of the glasses to secure them in their place. Boxes having
glass tops and bottoms are sold for this purpose. A much better
method of packing is in tin boxes with glass sides; this style
was first shown at the Indian and Colonial Exhibition, by Mr.
Griffin, where it attracted little attention, but was afterwards
improved by colouring the tin, and is now kept by a dealer who
has sold large quantities. It is, without doubt, the neatest package
yet introduced, but rather expensive—so much s0, that it will only
answer for show purposes. Sections should be stored in a warm,

88 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

dry place, where the temperature does not fall below sodegs. Fahr.
A higher temperature is preferable.

137. Packing Honey for Travelling. — In sending
away extracted honey by rail or otherwise, it is better for it to
be packed in stout tin vessels—small quantities in self-opening
tin boxes, and larger in properly constructed tin cans. Where
it has to be sent away in glass bottles, each must be surrounded
with straw to prevent breakage; this is the best material, when
properly applied, for packing.

Sections must be tightly packed in a box, and this box either
packed in another with straw, or—as we have found very success-
ful—provided with a thick straw cushion on its under side and
edges ; this is made as follows: Obtain a piece of bacon wrapper,
or any cheap strong material, about 8in. or gin. larger each
way than the bottom of the box ; spread this on the ground, and
lay a good armful of straw on it; now place the box on top,
and gather up the edges of cloth, tacking them to the side of
the box. See that there is plenty of straw, especially at the
corners and bottom. Label the box “Honey in the Comb,”
“Very Fragile,” ‘This Side up, or will be Broken.”

Crates for the conveyance of sectional honey are made by
bee-appliance manufacturers, but are very expensive. They
usually consist of a box within a box, the space between being
fitted with chair-springs.

XII.—DISEASES OF BEES.

FORTUNATELY for the bee-keeper, bees are less liable to disease
than any other description of stock. Up to the present time there
are only two kinds that claim any attention, namely, dysentery
and “foul brood.” To those who have studied bees and noted
well all their little failings, this short category of diseases is
not the limit. Without doubt, in time to come, when this sub-
ject has been fully studied by scientists, it will be found that
“foul brood” will have to be divided into several distinct diseases,
although all affecting the brood in its larval or pupal stage. But
little is known further than that it is a bacillus, varieties of which
are presumed to be the cause of most contagious and many other
diseases known to the medical faculty. We wish to impress upon
all bee-keepers the necessity of using the most stringent measures
to prevent spreading disease among neighbouring apiaries. “ Foul
brood” 1s gaining ground in these Islands. Only those who
by their duties are brought into communication with the out-
side world of bee-keepers have any idea as to the extent that
this plague has increased lately. In one district we are cognisant
of it was imported with a single colony of bees, which the
owner refused to destroy; now it has spread in all directions.

DISEASES OF BEES. 89

Thus, one person’s folly or selfishness has caused misfortunes
too numerous to particularise.

138. Dysentery.—This disease, as its name implies, is a
form of diarrhoea. It affects bees during late winter or early
spring. The causes are insufficient or unwholesome food—mostly
the latter—dampness, and often disturbances occurring during
what ought to be a lengthened period of semi-hybernation, pre-
venting the repose necessary at such a time. The bees consume
a much larger quantity of honey than is natural for them, and
having, on account of the bad weather, no chance of going abroad
to relieve themselves, their bodies become distended with the
consequent accumulation of foeces, which produce inflammation,
dysentery, and death. Feeding very late in the autumn produces
unwholesome food, as the bees being unable at such a time to seal
these stores, fermentation takes place, when the food turns acid.
Feeding with syrup made too thin is also another cause; there
being too much water in the food, the bees are unable to evaporate
it before the cold weather sets in, and it turns sour. By this
it will be seen that if any food is fed to the bees after the tem-.
perature has fallen below the point at which wax can be
manipulated by them into cell cappings, it must be in a per-
fectly dry condition, such as candy, dry sugar, unflavoured
barley sugar, or sugar candy. The signs of dysentery are:
Soiling the combs, the inside of the hive, and around the entrance,
with a dark brown, semi-liquid substance, having a very nauseous
smell, the bees themselves being frequently soiled with the
same; their abdomens become unnaturally distended, their
numbers decrease, and ultimately the stock, if not attended
to, dwindles away and perishes. The cure for this disease
is very effectual: it is simply to remove the cause and supply
a healthy regimen. Remove the bees—in a warm room—
to a clean, dry hive, and supply them with warm combs of
honey ; then cover up with warm, dry quilts, and place them on
their original stands. If the weather is cold, it is imperative
that this should be done in a warm room; but if a bright,
warm day, it can be done in the sunshine ; but the fresh hive
and combs must be well warmed before the transfer. It is a very
good plan to put a bottle of hot water on the top of the quilts
for a short time after. ;

The signs of dysentery must not be confounded with the natural
marks made by the bees outside a hive after they have been con-
fined to it by bad weather for some considerable period.
These marks are quite in accordance with what might be
surmised ; they are always outside, on the roof, or surrounding
objects, and very little around the entrance.

139. Foul Brood.—Various have been the surmises as to
the origin of this disease. It is not a modern importation. Many

go THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

ancient writers speak of the loss of their bees by disease, even
as far back as Virgil, and Dryden in more recent times. A
district in our own county, Berks, was celebrated some half
century ago for the number of its bee-keepers, but through disease
has ceased to be so, it now being quite the exception to find a bee-
keeper in the district. Foul brood is the bee-keeper’s bane. No
good will accrue from inquiring into its source; it is here! Let
it be stamped out! The ap-
pearance presented by this
disease is only to be observed
in the combs. As its name
implies, it is a disease of the
larve or pup, although it can
be microscopically traced in the
imago stage. Remove a frame
from a hive affected with this
disease; the first object that
i meets the eye is that some
patches of cappingsare very much
darker than the surrounding
ones, and these, instead of being
Foul Brood, with Row of Healthy convex, as healthy ones are,
Larvee on Top. are irregularly concave. In some

of these cappings there are

punctures, as though the bees had commenced to remove them,
but had been driven away by the unpleasant contents. Remove
the cappings from one of these cells, and insert the end of a
lucifer match ; withdraw it, and a dark brown, semi-liquid material
will be brought forth, adhering to the end, which can be drawn out
into a thin line, as can be done with treacle or partially dry
varnish; the smell of this is most offensive, reminding one of
putrid fish. In many of the uncapped cells the larve are in
abnormal positions ; in others, all that remainsof them are masses
of dark grey or dirty yellow substances. These have the
same nauseous smell as before described. In a healthy comb—
as top row of cells in illustration—the larvee are always curled
round in the cell; this position is rarely seen with diseased
larve after the disease has commenced to attack them. All the
larvee of a healthy colony are pearly white, but the diseased are
yellowish grey. Owing to the destruction of the larvee, the colony
gradually dwindles, and ultimately becomes a mass of rotting
brood ; at this time the disease can be detected by the smell
which emanates from the entrance, at some distance away from
the hive. A colony slightly affected has the same smell, but this
is only noticeable on removal of quilts from top of frames, and
can rarely be smelt at the entrance. Another form of “foul
brood” is frequently met with, in which all the various symptoms
of the former virulent kind are seen, but with little or no smell,

eK pene one

3

DISEASES OF BEES. 9g!

This has had the name of Baci//us minor given it. With this
disease many of the brood reach the stage of the perfect insect,
but die before emerging from their cells ; the larve also dry up
in the cells instead of—as in the virulent form—remaining in
a_semi-liquid condition. “Foul brood” is exceptionally conta-
gious ; it can be carried on the hands or clothes of the apiarist
from one hive to another. As soon as one stock in a apiary
becomes affected, it quickly travels from colony to colony, and,
if not checked, will destroy all. Many have been the methods
submitted for curing this disease, but none seem absolutely cer-
tain in their effect. By an antiseptic system of treatment the
disease has been checked but never cured without the destruction
-of combs, eggs, larvae, and pupz ; this is almost tantamount to a
destruction of three-fourths of the colony. The bacillus in
what we may call its energetic stage is easily killed with a
minimum of danger to the bees, but unfortunately it has a knack
of changing into the spore stage—we will liken this to a hyberna-
ting condition—or vice versa. In the spore condition it is im-
possible to apply an antiseptic of sufficient strength to destroy it
without killing the bees; therefore, when a colony is affected with
this disease, we must adopt drastic measures. The greatest
danger arises while the bacillus is in the spore condition, as,
according to scientists, the spores will float in the air and so enter
other hives, where, if they happen to alight on suitable media,
they will change into the energetic condition and commence
increasing enormously by division. Both in the energetic and in
the spore condition the bacilli can be carried upon the hands or
clothes, unless these have been thoroughly disinfected. The idea
of administering drugs to a colony, except as a precautionary
measure, must be given up. It is disappointing to have to give
this advice, yet the therapeutical researches of modern scientists
have not yet found a suitable medium which could be used by all
classes of operators alike. Although it seems at the present time
that the disease, from a bee-keeper’s point of view, is incurable, yet
an attack need not necessitate the destruction of the hive appliances.
We find that neither the bacillus nor the spore can exist in a
temperature above 212deg. Fahr.; therefore, if all hives and other
infected appliances are thoroughly boiled, so that this degree of
heat reaches every chink and cranny, perfect security from con-
tagion is insured. We have cured many colonies by what is
called the “starvation plan,” but although you may cure nineteen
cases out of twenty by this method, yet the twentieth may not
be cured, and will again infect the other nineteen. We will,
however, describe this plan. First remove all the bees from
the diseased colony into a clean skep or box and fasten them in
with strainer-cloth tied over the mouth ofsame. This must be done
at a time when all other bees have ceased flying, and the
entrances to other hives near at hand must be secured, so that

92 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

none of the bees from the diseased colony may enter. The
bees in the skep, or box, are to be put in a cool, dark place
for forty-eight hours without food. Remove all the combs,
both brood and store, from the diseased colony and at once
burn them. Next, by boiling, thoroughly disinfect hive, quilts,
frames, &c. When dry, fit up the frames with starters of
foundation only, and at the expiration of the two days’
imprisonment, return the bees to their clean hive and feed
them for a fortnight with medicated syrup. (See page 41.)
Preventive measures are taken as follow. Into each _ hive,
before covering up for winter, five or six pieces of napthaline
(obtainable at any drysalter’s at 3d. or 4d. per pound), about
3in. square, should be placed on the floor-board (do not leave
half the quantity in the hive during summer) ; and if there are
diseased colonies near, the bees should be fed—if feeding is
necessary—on medicated syrup. The ground should. be dug in
for at least 6ft. around any hives that have contained diseased
colonies. All colonies should be kept as clean and dry as
possible at all times, whether disease is prevalent or not. On
no account use second-hand appliances unless you previously
boil them. Never feed honey to a healthy colony, unless you
know for certain that it is from a healthy colony or colonies.

140. Cautions to be Rigidly Observed in Dealing
with Foul-Broody Stocks.—On no account handle a healthy
stock after manipulating one diseased before disinfecting the hands
with carbolic acid solution or carbolic soap. Prevent strange bees
from visiting diseased colonies by performing all manipulations
with the latter indoors or under a tent (see page 50). Do not allow
any portion of your clothes to touch, or become soiled with, the
honey of diseased colonies. Always roll up your sleeves, and
handle with bare arms. Wear, if possible, a linen or calico overall,
and remove this when finished. Never place bees in a hive that
has been tenanted by a diseased colony, unless it has been
thoroughly saturated with strong carbolic acid solution (preferably
hot), inside and outside. Destroy by burning all quilts and
frames, as these can be replaced at a very moderate outlay. Keep
entrances close when robbing is rife. In the present condition of
knowledge relating to the cure of “foul brood,” we should
strongly advise the entire destruction of a single colony, hives and
all, where such is found among a number of healthy colonies, as
“prevention is better than cure.” While the apiarist is doctoring
this one colony others may become diseased.

141. Disinfection of Hives with Bromine.—The Rev.
G. W. Banck’s method is as follows: Stop up ventilators and
all crevices opening to the air with clay. Remove the roof

ENEMIES OF BEES, 93

and place a saucer on the floor-board, into which put about
twenty drops of bromine; quickly return the roof and allow
the hive to stand for twenty-four hours; repeat this, and then
wash the hive with a solution of 30z. of bromine to a gallon
of water.

142. Care to be exercised when using Bromine.—
As this is an exceedingly volatile and dangerous drug, great
care must be exercised in its use. Keep the bottle stoppered
with glass and enclosed in a hermetically-sealed outer case.
Do not inhale the fumes, which can be seen distinctly.

XITI.—ENEMIES OF BEES.

LUCKILY for the bee-keeper, the British Islands contain very few
bee-enemies, and with few exceptions—which do not come under
the usual acceptance of the term enemy—little fear may be enter-
tained of much damage occurring by their depredations. Among
those which attack a colony openly, and are usually denominated
enemies, various birds are included—these commit the greatest
amount of damage; next in importance are wasps, toads, mice,
moths, and spiders ; but those which, although committing a far
greater amount of harm to the colonies, are not usually placed
in the category of bee-enemies, are fertile workers and aphides
(green or black fly).

143. SBirds.—These may be divided into two classes—
domesticated and wild. Among domesticated, ducks will be
found the most destructive; they seem quite proof against the
stings. Frequently have we seen them watching at the entrance
of hives, and “gobbling” the bees up almost as fast as they
emerged or alighted. Fowls, as well as ducks, will frequently con-
tract the habit of bee-killing ; but in both of these cases, as with
wild birds, it appears to be individual birds who contract this
habit, and so the whole of the members of any species or variety
must not be branded as “apicides.”. The Great Tit (Parus
major) and the Blue Tit (Parus ceruleus) are both addicted to the
habit of killing bees, watching at the entrance and snapping up
any bee that emerges from it. The Cole Tit (Parus ater) will fre-
quently eat dead bees, a few of which are usually found on the ground
under the entrance to hives; but we have failed to discover any mem-
ber of this variety killing bees. Many bee-keepers have supposed
that the Swallow (Airundo rustica), Swift (Hirundo apus), Martin
(Hirundo urbica), and Sand Martin (Airundo riparia), are ene-
mies, but we must differ from such an idea, and glad we are that
the character of these beautiful harbingers of spring can be cleared
of such a charge. Often have we watched the bees chasing the
swallows, and driving them away from the vicinity of the apiary.
Especially is this noticeable in early autumn, after the honey flow

94 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

has ceased, when the bees’ irritability is very much increased.
The Red-backed Shrike, or Butcher Bird (Lanzus collurio), we have
frequently seen catching bees and impaling them upon the barbs
of a wire fence surrounding the apiary.

144, Toads.—These should never be allowed in sufficient
numbers in an apiary to do any very serious damage. They will
watch the entrances of hives and lick up any bee coming within
reach of their long tongues; also those bees which have been
blown among weeds or grass under the hives.

145. Mice.—These busy little animals will cause much
destruction among the hives and bees if not kept within bounds.
Wherever their signs are noticed about the hives, search should be
made for them, and when found, killed. They will frequently get
into the hives among the combs if the entrances are too large;
when such is the case, the bees are quickly destroyed, the combs
irreparably damaged, and the honey consumed. A good preven-
tive is to place a wire lengthways across the entrance; this will
prevent the entrance of the mice, at the same time allowing suffi-
cient space for the exit and ingress of the bees, and ventilation.
Under the coverings of straw skeps is a favourite place for mice
to make nests, holes being frequently gnawed through the crown,
and the combs tainted with their excreta; this latter will fre-
quently cause the bees to vacate a hive.

146. Wasps.—These are very troublesome to the apiarist
in autumn and late summer. All entrances to hives should be
kept well contracted, as although a colony may be strong enough
to defend a wide entrance, the wasps being able to bear a greater
amount of cold than bees, will attack a hive and gain an
entrance at such times when the temperature is too low to admit
of the warmth-loving bees guarding their entrance properly. They
will also endeavour to gain an entrance, and are usually successful,
before the bees are fairly awake for the day, and also after sun-
down, while twilight lasts. All wasps seen during March, April,
and beginning of May, should be killed, as those found flying then
are the queens, who are searching for locations in which to found a
new colony ; so that killing one of these in spring means many
thousands less during autumn. Narrow-mouthed bottles of stale
beer hung about the apiary will be the means of trapping large
ae their nests should be searched for and destroyed at
night.

147. Moths.—These are a great nuisance in the store-room,
but not so much in the hives, although they are in the first instance
usually reared in them. If colonies are kept strong, especially if
they are Italians, moths have little chance to do any material
damage in the hive ; but where combs are stored, they will quickly
be spoilt by the moth larve drilling tortuous holes along the mid-

ENEMIES OF BEES. 95

rib and through the cells of the comb (see illustration), thus
rendering the combs nearly valueless to the bee-keeper. They
leave a quantity of dirt and
material, something like a
spider’s web, but woven into
the form of a tunnel, through
which the larve traverses
the comb ; this is very diffi-
cult of removal. Where any
traces of moth are discover-
able in combs, they should
be exposed to the fumes of
burning sulphur. All scraps
of wax and other débris
should be rigorously kept
from the store-room or Ravages of Wax-moth Larve through
apiary, as this attracts moths a Comb.

and provides lodgings for

them. The larve whenever seen should be killed; they will
frequently be found on top of the frames and between the folds
of the quilts, or anywhere where the bees are unable to dislodge
them. They are very like the white maggots found in apples,
and move very rapidly when disturbed; they vary much in
size, from jin. to the full-grown one of Zin.

148. Spiders.—These should be kept from spinning their
webs near the entrances of hives.

149. Ants.—These are a nuisance, and no doubt consume a
small quantity of honey; but they do little injury. A piece of
flannel wrapped round each leg or stand of a hive, and occasionally
saturated with carbolic acid, will prevent their entrance.

150. Earwigs.—These do no harm to the bees or stores, but
they make a nasty mess about the inside of the hives. As they
are provided with wings, the bee-keeper is powerless to prevent
their entrance. The plan advocated for ants will, however, pre-
vent the entrance of many.

151. Aphides.—We now come to one of those enemies which,
though not causing any visible damage to the colony at first sight,
do more harm to bees and bee-keeping than all the foregoing
massed together. Aphides, by some termed Green or Black Fly
and blight, are a considerable source of inconvenience to the
gardener, different varieties of the species attacking different
plants or trees, in many cases totally destroying them. They are
a parasitic insect, and in most cases adhere to the tender shoots
of the plant in clusters, sucking the juices and thus destroying the
plant. There is a most peculiar arrangement in many species, at
the extremity of the body, consisting of two horns; from these

96 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

the aphide exuviates a transparent saccharine fluid, which falls on
the leaves and ground surrounding the plant or tree, causing a
glistening appearance. This substance has been known for
centuries by the name of “honey-dew.” Ants, bees, and other
sugar-loving insects, eat this substance greedily, the bees storing
it in their cells'in exactly the same manner as honey. It is the
latter proceeding on the part of the bees that causes so much loss
to the bee-keeper. If sections are sold containing any of this
aphidian excreta, the bee-keeper will assuredly lose his customer,
thus damaging his reputation beyond recovery. If the hive is stored
for winter with the stuff, the bees suffer, as it is not suitable food
for them to winter upon. This latter circumstance is most likely
to take place, as it is just after the honey-flow—when the bees’
instincts lead them to fill the lower portion of the hive or body-
box—that it is most frequently collected, as there is little else for
them to obtain. At certain seasons, and in certain districts, a
greater number of these insects will be found than at others.* For
the purpose of preventing the storing of it in the body-box, it is
best to commence rapidly feeding with good sugar syrup directly.
it is found that the excreta is being stored in any quantity ; this is
the only defence to be made. Rain is the best preventive, as
that washes it from off the leaves. The storing of it in sections
can be prevented by removing them from the hive ; it is of no use
their remaining on, being of no value when filled. The appearance
of “honey-dew” is difficult of description. We will take, for
example, the case of a section being partially filled with honey, and
partially with aphide excreta. Hold it up to the light, and look
through ; in the centre the cells will be found to have a beautiful
golden transparent appearance—that is honey; but surrounding
these cells, and in some places becoming intermixed with them,
a dark grey, semi-transparent substance is stored, appearing dead
and in marked contrast by the side of the honey—this is the excreta.
It has no rich colour as honey, but looks as if soot had been sparingly
mixed with sugar syrup, although it has no granular appearance.
Its taste to most people is extremely nauseous, although we have
met exceptional instances where it has been described as passable
honey.

152. Fertile Workers.—In a normal condition there
is only one bee in the hive that has the power of reproduction—the
queen ; but when a hive has lost its queen, and is without the
means of rearing another, in some cases a worker or certain of
the workers usurp the functions of the queen, and commence to lay
eggs; as these workers have not and cannot be fertilised by the
drone, the eggs laid produce drones; as a consequence the stock,
unless provided with a queen, will die out. This condition of

* Honey-dew is also ascribed to a disease of the leaves of the plants on which it is
found (See “ Dictionary of Gardening," article “ Honeydew"),

ENEMIES OF BEES. 97

things is very rarely experienced with the English, or black bee,
but in foreign varieties it is more general, especially so with
Cyprians and Syrians. The means of detecting their presence
is easy. Although the hive is queenless, eggs will be found in both
worker and drone-cells, but not laid, as with a fertile queen,
regularly in one large patch, but scattered about, very rarely more
than four cells in close contiguity being used. Even in those cells
which are occupied by eggs they are not laid in a uniform
manner : here an egg is stuck on the side of the cell, instead of on
the bottom ; the next cell has four or five—this latter circumstance
is frequently observed where a prolific queen is in the hive, and
there are not sufficient workers to cover the number of eggs she
has the power of laying—the eggs are found in both drone and
worker-cells at times when it is not natural for drone eggs to be
laid. These eggs, after hatching and being capped over, are in
all cases capped as with drone-cells, although they may be laid in
worker-cells. The drones thus produced are smaller than the
natural ones, no doubt on account of their cramped condition in so
small a cradle as a worker-cell. The easiest way of getting rid
of these pests is to unite the colony to a strong stock having a
fertile queen; after a few days it can be divided, and a fertile
queen given, or a queen-cell, or brood and eggs; but in all cases
this latter should be provided. Caging a fertile queen in the hive
for two days will usually cause the destruction of fertile workers.
Again, we must quote the adage, “ prevention is better than cure.”
Never allow a colony to become queenless without a means of
rearing another queen, in which case fertile workers will be
unknown.

153. Finale.—All the foregoing instructions have been tested
by the writer himself, and have been found the most easy and
successful. One might almost wish that the skill required might
be imparted to others by writings, yet we know it cannot be;
but much time, trouble, and expense may be saved by listen-
ing to the teachings of others, or by reading their writings.
“Example is better than precept,” but where both precept and
example can be obtained, success by following both must be
assured. It is this that has made the writer call attention to
the good that may be gained by taking a course of instruction
from some apiarist of note. By watching his movements, that
delicacy of handling, in which so many are deficient, may easily
be obtained, and bee-keeping become a pleasure rather than a
fear.

Each of us thinks his hobby the best. If the writer, in the
foregoing pages, has allowed any such ideas to be advanced, he
apologises. “The astronomer who can unravel the mechanism
of the heavens—the chemist who can trace the atomic
processes of matter upon earth—or the metaphysician who

H

98 THE BOOK OF BEE-KEEPING.

can assign the laws of human thought—or the grammarian who
can discriminate the niceties of language—or the naturalist who
can classify the flowers, and the birds, and the shells, and the
minerals, and the insects which so teem and multiply in this
world of wonders; each of these respective inquirers is apt to
become the worshipper of his own theme, and to look with
a sort of indifference, bordering on contempt, towards what he
imagines the far less interesting track of his fellow-labourers.
Now, each is right in the admiration he renders to the grace
and grandeur of that field which he has explored; but all are
wrong in the distaste they feel, or, rather, in the disregard they
cast, on the other fields which they have never entered. We
should take the testimony of each to the worth of that which he
does know; and then the unavoidable inference is, that that must
be indeed a replete and gorgeous universe in which we dwell,
and still more glorious the Eternal Mind from whose conception
it arose, and whose prolific fiat gave birth to it, in all its vastness
and variety.”

The Writer has only to add, that if any of his readers are
ever in any difficulty with their bees, and will send full par-
ticulars to the Editor of Zhe Bazaar, 170, Strand, London,
the best and fullest advice the Writer can give will be freely
placed at their service.

A.

Abdomen of worker
Absconding swarms, pre-
vention of ..
Adjunct to farming and
gardening ..
as i of bee-keep-

ing

Aid to health, beerkeep-
ing as an

Albino bee.

Animal kingdom, ‘place
of see bee in the

Ants ae

Aphides ..

Apiculture

Apidze

Apifuge ..

Apis es

Appliances

Artificial pollen

Swarming ‘
Assistance to the work-
ing man
Autumn feeding
Management ..

B.

Balling :

Bar-frame hive for pre-
paring reception
ofswarm ..

INDEX.

Page
17

48

NeRNe}
NARMS D OW Go mon
I
Ww

ces)

Bar-frame hives
Hive super
Bee, albino .. .. .. 9
Black 8
Carniolan, or ‘lady’ 5 9
Cyprian .. 9
Weer 5 6
Houses! i: 45 s+ qo
Italian Alp 8
Lady’s 9
Ligurian .. i 38
Queen .. .. .. 10
Syrian sa «19
Varieties of fe 38
Bee-keeping, depot I
of. ‘ { 3
Modern Mi ade tih) Celk
Persons suited to .. 2
Persons unsuited to 3
Spreadof .. .. I

When to commence 22
Bees, diseases of .. 88
Enemies of 93
Moving .. 60
Packing . 66
Products of 5 1
pone Handling 49
Birds... 98
Black Bee
Bottle-feeder .. =
Broad section-frames 27
Bromine, disinfection of
hives with ., .. 92
Use of 93

100

Brood, spreading ..
Bumping..

Cage, queen .. ..
Cages, travelling
Candy ..
Canela or ‘lady's bee
Cautions to be observed
in dealing with
foul-broody stocks
Cells, queen .. 4
Worker ..
Clearer, super. iy
Colonial successes .
Colonies, after-treatment
of transterred
Dividing two,
three :
Nucleus .. ;
Uniting two, in bar-
frame hives .
Colony, dividing one, ina
bar-frame into two
Forming a, from a
number of others
Comb, drone ..
Honey
Remoying, from hive
Combs .,
Securing, for travel-
ling
Transferring with old
crooked
Worker .. .
Commencing bee- -keeping
Condemned or driven
bees—bumping
Cottager’s bar-frame hive
Cyprian bee ..

into

D;

Direct queen-introduction
Diseases of bees
Disinfection of appliances
Of hives .
Dividing one ‘colony into
two

INDEX.
Page Par. Page Par.
63 110 Dividing two colonies
83 131 into three .. 44 81
Doubling and storifying 81 129
Dresses for ladies .. .. 38 62
Driven bees, bumping .. 83 131
Bees, packing. . 68 115
tt pel Driving .. .. 5I 90
Drone-comb .. 19 35
t i Excluder . 36 58
, Drone, the .. 13 26
Drones, duties of . 13 27
Dry sugar. 41 74
ge: 140 ‘ Sugar feeding. . 58 102
Or ao Dummy-boards 26 44
eae: Duties of drones 13.32
66 3 27
39 8 Of workers 1§ 29
4 Dysentery 89 138
53 93
E.
44 81
74 123 Earwigs .. 95 150
Embedder, wire 38 63
54. 95 Ends, frame 4o 68
Enemies of bees » 93
44 80 Excluder, queen and
drone ... 36 «58
44 82 Extracting heather honey 86 135
19 35 Honey from body-
20 36 box of hive .. 86 134
84 131 Honey from supers 85 133
18 Extractors, honey .. 34 «56
Wax 34°57
67 113
53 92 Bs
% ae Farming, adjunct to .. 5 10
3 Fast feeder ss 37 59
Feeders .. +. 36
= a Feeder, pollen | fs 38 oy
9 19 Feeding. . se te Tae)
Autumn ., »» 59 105
Dry-sugar 58 102
Nuclei 60 106
77 125 Spring 56 101
88 Summer ., 59 104
92 139 ‘Winter 60 107
g2 I41 Fertile workers. 96 152
Financial success .. 4 8
44 80 Fixer, foundation ., 38 64

Page Par
Fixing foundation., .. 46 85
Flour candy 42
Food se ees 40
Honeyas a nutritious 5 11
Forming a colony from a
number others 44 82
Foul brood .. 89 139
Broody stocks, “deal:
ing with 92 140
Foundation 30 53
Fixer 38 64.
Fixing 46 85
Wiring 85 132
Frame ends 40 68
Hive super 28 St
Spacing .. 26 47
Stands 38 65
Wirng 46 85
Frames 26 46
Broad section. . 27 48
Fumigator 33 54
Functions of queen bee., Il 2 5
G.
Gardening, ee to.. § 10
Gloves 37 «61
H.
Habitat, natural 7 14
Handling bees ‘ 49 89
Health, ee as
anaidto ., 3 9
H er_ honey, ex-
tracting , 86 135
Hive, kinds of bee in 9 22
Hives, bar frame 22 43
Location of 22 qi
Packing .. 66
Purchasing in ZL. 39)
Hiving naturalswarm .. 44 83
Honey By ie A be 3e
Asa nutritious food 5 11
Bee .. 6 12
Bee, physiology of the 10 23
Bee, varieties of 8 15
Extracting, from
body-box of hive 86 134

INDEX.

Honey, extracting, from
supers ..
Extractors...
Heather, eigen
Honeycomb ke
Honey-dew
Houses, bee ..
How to commence mo-
dern bee-keeping

I.

Intellectual pursuit, bee-
keeping an ..

' Introduction, queen

Italian Alp, or Ligurian
Bee i ee es

K.

Kinds of bee in hive
Knife, uncapping ..

Li

Ladies, dresses for. . :

Lady’s, or Carniolan bee

Ligurian, or Italian ae
bee 44

Location . :

Loss of mother (queen)
bee

M.

Management, autumn ..
Spring .
Manipulating ..
Tent ‘%) Gs
Medicated syrup
Mice re
Modern bee-keeping
Bee-keeping, how to
commence ..

‘Moths .. ..
- Moving bees ..

IOI

Page Par.

102

Natural habitat
History of bee, ob-
ject of knowing ..

Swarming

Nectar :

Nuclei, feeding
Nucleus colonies ‘
Colonies, uniting ..
Nutritious food, honey
asa eee rege

O.

Object of knowing natu-
ral history of bee
Of this book ....

Ps

Packing a bar-frame hive
A straw skep..
Bees for travelling. .
Honey for travelling
Queens for travelling
Swarms and driven
bees ..
Treatment of “honey
before ..
Persons suited to bee-
keeping
Unsuited
keeping.
Physiology of the honey
bee...
Place of honey bee in the
animal kingdom , .
Pollen

Artificial .,

Preventive of ants ..
Of aphides
Of mice ..
Of wasps...
Products of bees
Profit to the working man
‘Propolis...
Purchasing hives
Stocks

to bee-

68
87

INDEX.
Par.
14 Queen and drone-ex-
eluder ..
12 Bee.. .. .
78 Bee, functions of ox
83 Bee, loss of
30 Cage
106 Cells ;
123 Introduction ..
97 Packing for travel-
ling
Ir Rearing .

Travelling- ‘box for.
Queenless colony, obtain-

ingaknowledgeofa ;

Stock, what to do
witha.
Quieting and handling
bees
Quilts

Rack, skep
Rearing queens 5
Recipe _ for medicated
syrup...
For syrup in autumn
For syrup in spring
Removing comb from
hive, method of .,
Supers from hives ..
Robbing ..

Ss.

Section-frames, broad ,.
Sections .,
Separator, slotted |
Shallow-frame supers
Working with
Skep, packing
Rack
Straw
Super...
Uniting, with a bar-
frame hive ..
Smoker .,
Spacing frames
Spiders

Page Par.
36 58
10 24
II 25
70 118
77 124
20 37
76, 77
68 116
po 122
39 67
FI 120
71 121
49 89
26 45
27° 50

122
41 73
41 71
ql 72
84 131
79 127
69 117
27 48
29 52
79 126
29 51*
82 130
66 113
27 50
27 «50
27° 50
55 98
33° 54
20 47

INDEX.

Page Par
Spreading brood << (63) 110
Spread of bee-keeping.. I I
Spring feeding » ee 56 TOI
Management .. 61 109
Stands, frame. . 38 «65
Stocks, purchasing 21 40
Storifying : 81 129
Straw skep, to pack 66 113
Skep rack 28 50
Subjugators ‘ 32 54
Success, a financial 4 8
In our colonies 4 8
Sugar, dry... 4 74
Dry, feeding . 58 102
Summer feeding 59 104
Super-clearer.. .. 39 66
Super, frame-hive .. 28 51
Supers sa wee 29 GQ
Extracting honey
from sve sai nei BH. 133
Frame-hive 28 31
Placing, on hive 78 126
Removing, from
hives - 79 127
*
Shallow-frame ‘ (ee an
Swarm, hiving natural... 44 83
Placing in a_bar-
frame hive .. .. 46 86
Preparing bar-frame
\ hive for reception
of.. . 45 84
Swarming... 42
Artificial . 43 79
Natural... 42 78
cae after treatment
48 37
ioe * driven ‘bees,
packing . 68 115
Prevention of ab-
sconding 48 88
Uniting .. .. 55 98
Syrian bee .. 9 20
Syrup... 40 70
Medicated 4i 73
Recipes for 41
T.
Tent, manipulating 50 89
Testing wax .. .. 31 53

Tiering-up
Toads iy Gate, Ware
Transferred colonies,
after-treatment of
Transferring .
With oldandcrooked
combs ,

Travelling cages i
Packing bar-frame
hive for
Packing bees for
Packing honey for. .
Packing queens for

U.

Uncapping knife ..
Uniting ..
A skep with a bar-
frame hive ..
Nucleus colonies
Swarms...
Two colonies in bar-
frame hive .. ‘
Two distinct varie-
ties, difficulty in, .

Vv.

Varieties of honey-bee ..
Veils os 8

Wasps 2. ve ve
Water 26. ee ae
Waki os oe
Extractors
Testing .. ..
When to commence
Winter feeding .. ..
Wire-embedder .. ..
Wiring foundation...
Frame... .. ..
Worker, the
Cells
Combs ..
Workers, duties of.
Fertile .,
Working-man, assistance
to. . oe
Profit ‘to the ae

From “The Field.”

HE two thick volumes of Mr. Frank Cheshire
are the most complete that have
ever been published in this country.
The first, of some 350 octavo pages, deals solely
with the scientific foundation of the subject,
namely, the anatomy, physiology, and natural
history of the honey-bee; the second, of two-
fold size, enters into the minutiz of practical
management, giving the details of the formation
of hives and of all the apparatus employed by
the skilled apiarian. A work of this size and
exhaustive character is perhaps hardly required
by the mere tyro, but it should find its place in
the library of every advanced bee-keeper in the
kingdom. It is profusely illustrated by some
hundreds of original wood engravings by the
author, and may be regarded as a perfect encyclo-
peda of the subject on which tt treats.

BEES AND BEE-KEEPING:

SCIENTIFIC AND PRACTICAL.

By F. R. CHESHIRE, F.L.S., F.R.M.S., Lecturer on
Apiculture at South Kensington.

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Physiology of the Hive Bee. Jn cloth gilt, price 7s. 6d.

Vol. II., PRACTICAL MANAGEMENT OF BEES. Jn cloth gilt,
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LONDON: L. UPCOTT GILL, 170, STRAND, W.C.

Published by L. Upcott Gill, r7e,
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Snakes, Marsupials, and Birds. A Charming Book of Anecdotes, Adven-
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Stamps, Postage, and their Collection. A Practical Handbook for Collectors
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Turning for Amateurs: Being Descriptions of the Lathe and its
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PRICE LIST OF BOOKS IN PRECEDING CATALOGUE,

£3 3/-
Book of Choice Ferns, 3 vols.

£3.
Dictionary of Gardening, 4
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£2 2/-
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37/6.

Painters and Their Works,
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31/6.

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25/-
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16/-
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15/-
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12/6.
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10/6.

British eee Birds.
Book of ne Fig:
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Book of the re Rabbit.
Sailing Tours, nye. ug

” ”

9/6.
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8/6.
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7/6.

Autograph Collecting.

Scientific Bee-Keeping.
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_. &e.
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_, Shooting.
Library ‘Manual.

‘Britain ’

POCO HTOSCOHEOD

Sailing Tours, evel .
1, TIT

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6/6.
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5/6.
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ler.
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5/-
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Englis Pottery and Porce-
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4/6.
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3/6.
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a *, vol. Il.
i vol. ITI.

Fox ‘Terrier’ Stud Book,

oe vol. V.
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Book of British Hawk Moths.
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Games of Patience.
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8t. Bernard Stud Book, pvt.

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Pe fe ot
08 amps.
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vO.
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2/6.

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firework Maki

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A Hundred Games.

The Greyhound.

Guinea

Handwriting.

Home Medicine.

Inland Watering Places.
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Pet Monkeys.

Welsh Mountaine B
Natural History geri 68.
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Poultry for Pies and Profit.
Rabbits »

g Guide ie Solent.
. Bernard.

Sea Fis e
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g.
ing for Amateurs.
Ventriloquism.

and Fancy

2/-
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1/6.

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t/-

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Angling for Pike.

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Bent Iron worl

Bulb Cultur:

Butterfly and Moth Collect-
ing.

PRICE LiIST—continued.

38 of Cage Bucs: Games of Patience, wel: I. Wood Carving.

C tion Cu ef a 1. IT. Shorthand Systems.
Chrysanthemum Culture. woL III. American Dainties.
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Fox ee -Keep’

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Qo. for Amateurs. Pool. ° ¥
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olist's B Route Map. Diseases of Rabbits.
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Hand Camera ‘Manual. Shadow fen ber painmen ta: $) Ti ting.

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eens Cultur Practical Trapping.

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=

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RECENTLY PUBLISHED.
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Contents:

Mechanical Drawing i, | Cacti and Founding in Iron, Brass, Bronze, and other 7, Alloys;
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Too. their Uses; “explanations (with ah rue of 116 Joints and Hines and Details of
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Principal Contents:

Hints for Or. bol eotng. a fond House; Sanitation; Water Supply; Ventilation and W:
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London: E, & F. ‘N. SPON, 125, Strand.
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V.R.
Issued to Commemorate the 60th Year of Her Majesty’s Reign.
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THE

VICTORIA REGING ATLAS,

Royal Quarto, 12% <x 10 inches.

Containing 200 Coloured Plates——Political, Physical,
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Frontispieces illustrating the Time of all Nations, Arms of
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Half-bound Persian Morocco, price £1 1s.;
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This Atlas is Dedicated by Special Permission to Her Majesty,
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The First Edition is limited, and the Publishers cannot
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“Tt is peculiarly fitting that the present period of Her Majesty’s reign
should be marked by the publication of such a work as ‘The Victoria Regina
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honouring the event it is intended to mark, and the publishers by whom it is
isaued.”—Dundee Advertiser, 17th December, 1896.

W. & A. K. JOHNSTON,

EDINA WORKS, EASTER ROAD, & 7, HANOVER STREET,
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Photo. by G. & KR, Lawns

Mr. Georce R. Sims.

Lasthourne,

The TESTIMONY of “DAGONET’S” DuGS.

12, Alarence errace
Regents Pork
NW

ALay ist, 1897.

Alessrs. Spratts, Limited.
Ie, the undersigned Dogs, in common council assembled
at opposite the Ducks’ Villa, desire to express our high approval

of “ Spratts.”” We have lived on them all our lives, and when
we ask for them we see that we get them.

(Signed) LAby Gopiva,
SANDOW, SAMSON,
BILLY GREET, BARNEY BARNATO,
PEDLAR PALMER, ALFRED SEWELL,
PRINNIE, FRIZZIE.

Witness to signatures Their <% mark.
of above, GEO. R. Sims.

SN
\ S AS
RA
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