Cornell University Library The principles of fruit-growing. Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924002820169 The Rural Science Series EDITED BY L. H. BaILey THE PRINCIPLES OF FRUIT-GROWING THE PRINCIPLES OF FRUIT-GROWING BY L. H. BALLEY SECOND EDITION Netw Work THE MACMILLAN COMPANY LONDON: MACMILLAN & CO., Lrp. 1898 All rights reserved COPYRIGHT, 1897 By lL. Hs BAILEY Set up and electrotyped June, 1897 Reprinted July, 1898 /2A4¢, (70 Mount Pleasant Printerp J. Horace McFarland Company Harrisburg, Pa. PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. It is nearly a year since I left this work with the printer. The first copy of the book which I saw was procured in a foreign land; and now that a second edition is called for, I find myself again in fields and orchards of another country. These per- sonal remarks are not of themselves worth making here; but they shall be my excuse for writing a few contrasts of American and European fruit-growing. Classified in respect to the objects in view, there are two kinds of fruit-growing,—that which desires the product primarily for home use, and that which desires it primarily for market. Of market or com- mercial fruit-growing, there are again two types,— that which aims at a special or personal market, and that which aims at the general or open market. The ideals in these two types of fruit-growing are very unlike, and the methods and the varieties which suc- ceed for the one may not succeed for the other. The man who grows fruits for the special market, has a definite problem. The product is desired for its intrinsic qualities; and special products demand special prices. The man who grows fruit for the world’s market, has no personal customer. The product is (v) vi Preface. desired for its extrinsic or market qualities; and the world’s products bring the world’s prices. The special-market fruit-grower generally works on a small base. The world’s-market fruit-grower works on a large base; or he sells to another who, by com- bining similar products of many persons, is able to command the attention of the market. Now, it is the large base upon which American fruit-growing is established which enables it to enter European markets. In America are thousands of acres of one variety, and the conditions under which the fruits are grown are so similar as to produce uni- formity in the product. We speak one language, and, although we are two nations, we live in practically the same political environment. We go to Hurope, and to our own great markets, with wholesale quan- tities. In Europe, on the contrary, nearly every fruit- growing center is unique. The industry is the out- come of years, may be of centuries, of local effort and tradition. There is no general uniformity of methods and varieties. Community of interests on a large base is impossible. There are insurmountable difficulties of physiography, of races, languages and political systems. In the staple products, the Euro- pean grower may not be able to compete with Ameri- cans in his own markets, so long as those markets remain naturally open. The American fruit-grower quickly assimilates new methods. He is unfettered by tradition; and how: much this means only those can understand who know Preface. vii the European customs and ideals. He is bold and confident. He easily buys and sells land. He con- trols his own efforts and destinies. He has more help from teachers and experiment stations than the Euro- pean has. A single instance will illustrate all this. Spraying for fungous diseases is a European develop- ment, whereas large-area spraying for insects is an American development. The American has assimi- lated the spraying for plant diseases and has made improvements in the machinery, while he has at the same time made equal progress in fighting insects; but the European has not assimilated the American methods of handling insects, and spraying for plant diseases is probably less generally understood than in America. In many parts of Europe, the farmer is a tenant, and he therefore has little interest in planting trees. But even if he owns land, the area is usually small, notwithstanding the fact that there are many very large individual plantations. There are few great geo- graphical regions which are adapted to fruit-growing, or which, if they are adapted, can be utilized for that purpose. The environments of the Old World farmer are relatively inflexible. The result is that his methods tend to become stereotyped and rigid. He lacks the inspiration which comes of conditions which are easily recast and modified. His small areas must be so crowded with many kinds of plants that machine- work is impossible. There are few orchards in Europe, as that word is understood in America, meaning an area devoted exclusively to tree fruits set at regular viii Preface, distances and cultivated systematically with labor- saving machinery. For these and other reasons, as well as for the fact that our fruits and their manufactured products are attractive and of good quality, I believe that the American fruit-grower will find an increasing market in Europe. But the greater the quantity sent abroad, the more discriminating will that market become; and it must be true that the brands and the varieties of inferior quality tend to supply the inferior markets. But if I believe that American fruit-growing is in advance of the European in its general commercial aspects, I am equally convinced that the European is in advance in growing for special and personal uses. The narrowness of the enterprises, the competition im restricted areas, the respect for traditional methods and varieties, conserve the very elements which appeal to the discriminating consumer, while, at the same time, they develop great skill in the fruit-grower. The care which is bestowed on individual plants, the niceties of exposure and of training, the patient hand- work, may almost be said to develop personal traits in the fruits themselves. Such fruits may not find a place in the open market, but for that very reason they may have a higher commercial value. At the head of a little valley, closely shut in by the Alps, is a famous apple orchard. The trees are trained upright on the opposite sides of a double espa- lier or trellis, the sides of which are less than two feet apart. In each of these rows, the trees are two to four feet asunder. These trellises are perhaps ten feet Preface. 1x the one from the other, and between each two is a row of apples on cordons or single horizontal wires; and in the spaces potatoes or other annual crops are often planted. Even the wires that brace the end posts of the trellises have apple trees trained on them like strands of vines. Each tree is trained to a definite number of branches or arms, and even the fruit-spurs are carefully determined. This plantation is the property of a company whose business it is to eare for the land and the trees, and to find a mar- ket for the fruit. It is expensive to grow apples in this way; but the best Calvilles often fetch a guilden (about forty-one cents) apiece. Perhaps the most important lesson which the American fruit-grower has yet to learn is the fact that there are two types of effort in commercial fruit- growing, and that there may be pecuniary reward in fruits which are unknown in the market. Failure to distinguish these two categories is the result of a con- fusion of ideas. One grows fruit either for a special and personal market, in which case he looks for his own customer and is independent of general trade; or he grows what the market demands, and allows the machinery of trade to handle the product. In the latter effort, the American fruit-grower is preéminent; but in the former he has made little more than a beginning. L. H. BAILEY. Bozen, Tyrou, May 20, 1898. CONTENTS CHAPTER I, IntRopuctToRY DIscUSSION ‘ 5 ‘ ‘ ‘ . 1-36 INVENTORY OF FRUITS. Orchard culture or tree-fruit cul- twre—Pomaceous fruits— Drupaceous or stone fruits— Citrous fruits—Moraceous fruits—Anonaceous fruits—Myrtaceous fruits—Sapotaceous fruits—Anacardiaceous fruits—Eben- aceous fruits—Leguminous fruits—Nut-fruits—Palmaceous fruits— Miscellaneous tree-fruits.— Vine-fruit culture—Viti- culture—Passifloraceous fruits.—Small-fruit culture—Ru- baceous fruits—Ribaceous fruits— Miscellaneous bush-fruits —Strawberry culture—Cranberry culture.—Non-woody or herb-like fruits—Musaceous fruits—Pineapple—Cactaceous fruits—Miscellaneous herb-like fruits . ‘ é é a 2-7 THE GEOGRAPHY OF FRUIT-GROWING. The temperature determinant—The moisture determinant—The soil deter- minant—The parasite determinant . E 7 i F 7-25 THE COURSE OF EVOLUTION OF A FRUIT-REGION, ‘ . 26-27 THE OUTLOOK FOR FRUIT-GROWING. The two factors con- cerned—Farmers do not become rich—Always a demand for the unlike—Choice of business is a matter of taste and cap- ital—Farmer must master his local conditions—The fruit- grower, therefore, must be trained—Best farmers are often not brought up on the farm—The farmer is his own business manager—Outlook best in those fruits which make the greatest number of secondary products.—Is there over pro- duction of fruit?—Insufficient distribution—Tendency must be for cheaper fruit—Normal failure of many plantations. . 27-36 (xi) xil Contents. CHAPTER II. Tue LocATION AND ITS CLIMATE. : ‘ 3 - . 37-131 THE PLACE. The geography of a fruit farm—Choice with reference to markets and frosts.—Location with reference to market—Importance of transportation facilities—The per- sonal markets.—Location with reference to frosts—Frosts and freezes—Proximity to bodies of water—Nature of the influence of lakes—Retardation of bloom—Elevation and frost—Climate held responsible for too much—The declining peach areas.— Winds and air-currents in relation to friit- growing—High and rolling lands—High winds to be avoided —Effects of winds in drying up land and plants—Low wind- breaks to’ lessen evaporation.—Atmospheric drainage—The -eurrents of air—Cold and dense air settles in low places— The frosty belt below a wood—Very small objects intercept movement of cold air—Temperatures of high and low sta- tions. THE SITE FOR THE FRUIT PLANTATION. Elevated sites usually better—The exposure. — Tie aspect—North and south slopes. : : WIND-BREAKS FOR FRUIT PLANTATIONS. Tabulated opin- ions of fruit-growers— Epitome of benefits of wind-breaks— Experiences adverse to wind-breaks.— Statements of authors —Wind-breaks for many kinds of fruits and in various parts of the country.— Forests and fruit-growing —Influence upon wind and moisture—Its relation to insects and diseases.— Review of the influences of wind-breaks upon fruit planta- tions —What winds it is desired to break— Winds from bodies of water—The effect of a wind-break upon winds.— Position of the wind-break with reference to the fruit plantation—The prevailing winds— Opinions of fruit-growers.— How to make the wind-break— Kinds of trees— Opinions of fruit-growers— Conelusions.— General summary upon wind-breaks—Con- densed statements of benefits and injuries . PROTECTING PLANTATIONS FROM FROST. Jfulching to en- able plants to escape frost—Experiments ut Ithaca—Mulehing strawberries—Conclusions. — Covering plants for protection— Methods of covering—Laying down blackberries and rasp- berries— Protecting peach trees.—Adding vapor of water 58-61 62-92 Contents. Xill PAGES to the air—Irrigating and flooding—Spraying for frost—Till- ing-—Systematie evaporation of water in orchards.— The making of smudges—Characteristies of a good smudge—Ma- terials to use—Spraying the smudges—An account of Euro- pean experience.— Muking currents of air—Heating the air —Use of large fires é , ‘ 92-121 THE PREDICTION OF FROST. Reeords of frosts—Frost charts—The psychrometer— Finding the dew-point. 121-121 CHAPTER Iii. THE TILLAGE OF Fruit Lanps. : " : 133-174 Evolution of tillage—Apparently contrary to nature—Com- parison with the forest—~ Weeds—Neglect of apple orchards. THE PHILOSOPHY OF TILLAGE. Three main objects of till- age.— The terture of the soil—Physical conditions more im- portant than mere plant-food.— The moisture of the soil— Drought and rainfall—The moisture reservoir—Fall plowing — Tillage to save moisture—The earth-mulch. Vts-145 Use OF THE VARIOUS TOOLS IN RELATION TO CONSERVA- TION OF MOISTURE. Plowing to save moisture—The test of good plowing.— Harrowing to save moisture—The spring- tooth harrow—The acme harrow—The dise harrows—The smoothing harrows.—Cultivators and conservation of mois- ture—Level culture vs. ridge culture.—The roller in its relation to soil moisture—Difficulty of using the roller prop- erly—Its relation to seeding—Shbould be followed by tillage 145-154 SUGGESTIONS FOR THE TILLING OF FRUIT LANDS. Drain- ing—Subsoiling— Preliminary preparation of land for fruit plantations—The plowing of the orchard—Level culture— The tools— Harnesses— The tillage in the early and late years of the orchard.— Specific remarks—1, Begin to till when the orchard is planted, and till the entire surface—The deep root- ing of trees—2, Tillage should be begun early in the season, in orchards—The early growth of trees—3, Tillage should generally be stopped in late summer or very early fall—4, Till in such manner that the land may be in uniform fine tilth— 5, Tillage may be overdone—Too rapid growth . ‘ . 154-169 Xiv Contents. PAGES CROPPING THE ORCHARD. The open space about the tree— The kind of crops for an orchard—Nursery stock in fruit plantations— Sod in the orchard—F allowing the orchard 170-174 CHAPTER IV. THE FERTILIZING OF FRuIT LANDS , F ‘ 175-223 Plants will grow without fertilizers—Profit may lie in using additional plant-food, however—Humus-— Formation of soils—Weeds, THE LESSON OF NURSERY LANDS. Injuries to such lands— Source of fertility in soils—Man’s treatment of the land— The features of the nursery lands—The conclusions respect- ing the depletion of nursery lands : 178-183 Cover crops. What they are—Objects of their use—Ex- periments with covers at Cornell.— Zhe kinds of cover crops —A local question—Rye—Corn, buckwheat and cereals— Peas and beans—Cow pea—Vetch—Crimson Clover—Analyses 184-202 FERTILIZING THE FRUIT PLANTATION. Trees vs. annual crops—Plant-food taken up by trees—Effects of the various elements—New Jersey experiments in fertilizing peaches. — Stable manure—Rotation in manures—Danger of over use of barn manures. — Chemical fertilizers —Nitrogen—Potash— Phosphoric acid—Recommendations by Voorhees.—Swm- mary statement . ‘. a : é i 202-223 CHAPTER V. THE PLANTING oF Fruit Grounps F . i . 224-276 THE CHOICE OF VARIETIES. A personal question—The mental ideal—1, Follow personal preferences—2, Obtain a specific ideal of the purpose for which the fruit is to be grown—3, Do not covet varieties of other geographical re- gions—4, Choose with reference to local environment—5, Choose with reference to inter-pollination—The mixing of varieties—Lists of self-fertile and self-sterile varicties—6, The choice should be aided by inquiry of many persons and accessible writings . ‘ ‘ ‘ : ‘ » 224-230 Contents. XV PAGES THE SELECTION OF THE PLANTS. What is first-class stock? ~Age at which to buy.— Dwarfs us. standards—The parent- age of the stock may affect its value—Buying the trees— Peddlers—Near-by nurseries . ‘ ‘ @ 230-237 THE SETTING OF THE PLANTS. When to plant—Fall vs. spring—Stripped trees.—Distance apart—The mixing of species, or double planting—The opinions of Van Deman.— How to plant the stock—Preparing the land—Making the holes—Mulching—Puddling.— Trimming the trees—The two ideals —Illustrations of methods— Trim after planting—Trim- ming fall-set trees. e F i " F i ‘ . 237-254 THE LAYING OUT OF THE FRUIT PLANTATION. Surveying the land— The corn marker—Tree placers.— To lay out with the plow—Laying out with a line—Another line method— Stuking methods—Orchard plans—The hexagonal or Van Deman plan—The alternate plan—The Wellhouse plan— The Parker Earle plan—The Olden plan—Hale and Olden plans for peach orchards.— The family fruit plantation... 254-276 CHAPTER VI. Tue SECONDARY AND INCIDENTAL CARE OF THE FRUIT PLANTATION . 7 ‘ : é 7 ‘ oF 7-343 Epitome of methods of tilling the Jand— May not be neces- sary to plow when orchard is grown—Effect of breaking the roots—The tools—Importance of saving the moisture. THE GENERAL CARE OF THE PLANTS. Staking young trees—Sun-scald—Bark-bound trees—Scrapiny trees—Gir- dled trees and girdling—Pruning and heading-in— Winter preparations—Depredations of stock and ee ee ing bearing trees—Thinning the fruit. a 282-306 Mars AND RECORDS. Record books and plans—Labels . 307-313 INJURIES BY COLD AND RAIN. Winter-killing of the wood — Winter-killing of the fruit-buds—Injuries to the swelling buds—Injuries to flowers and growing parts— What is an in- jurious degree of cold ?—The effect of rain upon blossoms 313-340 RENOVATING OLD ORCHARDS. Nature of the problem—How to begin and what to expect— Why are orchards barren ? . 340-343 Xvl Contents. CHAPTER VII. DisEAsES, INSECTS AND SPRAYING. . , 344-377 Historical contrast respecting spraying—Secondary results of the spraying idea—Calls attention to pests—Forees new ideals— Will bring in some of the discarded varieties — Forces a closer study of companionships of pests and crops, and of rotations— Will take its place as one of the cardinal opera- tions of fruit farming— Will force better care of the planta- tion— Will make the grower more watehful— Will enlarge his horizon—Classification of pests and diseases— Insects — Para- sitic fungi— Physiological and germ diseases—Borers— Root- galls—Injuries by hail— Bagging. SPECIFIC REMARKS UPON SPRAYING. 1, Spraying is ouly one of the requisites to success in fruit-ruising—2, Spraying is an insurance—3, Spraying is of some value every year upon apples, pears, plums, quinces, grapes and various other fruits—4, Spray thoroughly, or not at all—5, Prepare for nert year’s work during the winter—6, The style of pump and nozzle to use depends almost wholly upon the particular kind of work to be done—7, The farmer should know what he wants to kill before he begins to spray—8, The time to spray must be determined for each particular case—9, Prepare stock solutions for the Bordeaux mixture, rather than to make each batch in the quantities culled for by the formula— 10, How can one tell if soluble arsenic is present in Paris green 2?—11, How can one determine if Paris green is pure ? —12, What becomes of the arsenic when it falls upon the soil ?—Summary. ‘ 4 4 . a . ‘ » 353-377 CHAPTER VIII. HARVESTING AND MARKETING FRUIT . ; é 378-479 Picking Fruits. When lo pick—Long-keeping and ripe- uess—Apples—Pears—Peaches and apricots—Cherries and plums.—How to pick—Pick by the stem—Leave the stem on —Fruit is picked in temporary receptacles—Ladders— Fruit- pickers—Keep fruit away from the sun-— Keeping records with the pickers—Necessity of hand-picking. ; ‘ . 378-401 Contents. xvii PAGES THE PACKING OF FRUIT. What is first-class fruit ?—Im- portance of uniformity in size.—How to pack—The tiers or layers of fruit— Facing fruit in barrels—Packing for export —Packing in California~German agitation—Wrapping the fruits—Snugness in packing—Trade-marks—Fruit must be well grown.—Puchages . is Fi . P 4 é . 401-425 PACKING HOUSES AND APPLIANCES. Two types of houses —Packing tables—Sorting tables—Apple presses . i 425-434 STORING FRUITS. General advice—Storage is a business by itself—Temporary storage—Risks in storing—Coépera- tive storage.— Requisites for domestic storage—Ventilation —Moisture—Fruit trays.— Storage Buildings—Various types —Vermont apple house—Alwood’s house— aut) jo sopuleu oO a 2 ti BR -91 ‘MOUS sep om) fourysuns a cS) bal q Aep auQ =: Suontpuod JayIVa A, a 7 < 3s a q iv AY AY oO & *26g1—-sSimy Burqyno jo ayeqy a re = aq Gy a) ture Loss. ics of Mois Statist ‘OTM OY} MUTOIpUAyWOD SUT] ‘MBIZ LayV ss9[ BIN4SLOTY y ‘OSRIOAY ; ‘sat, | canafo | *pnojo Pet eur gp ur | "say ep | “say ty aese ssory | 10} V pets | L619 ‘oc | Say & | 98" | soot | goog: se'Or | C2EFOE | LIF OL | AUPE OUMA | # “VOT THO" aver larrr| soo far |e jee | ty er | soto | ostr | atsr J aetor | oor | ovtor vdyuqep ROTO" +++ odeur LOG" | GLE si g if 82° | F900" | SEO" ROTC OLEGL | LOFOT | Peavol- Usy 8 con" IL ER RE PE | Gk’ | xo'R 6 Mali f Te | G6ETO" | 9FRO | TeGr Pb | GOXF bh | LROG P| GREE sees” UOT L w% Gal’ LOPh | OL FR | S66" | £96 ya T Té | #S00° FOGOT | S6TL'T POLL'T *eLoummBasg 160" LOS | pO'FE | Tae’ | Gos ae L T 13° | LITO" | GOL0" | RBGG'F 6Lo'r fr | 8996" “*poomssuq 8 zB S695 gaa" | OLY % aay &@ | Ge" | Txo0" | gato’ | 690% GLOVE | FSHOTR. | TUTTE ayOy | Re we eth aO'Gr LGL | EOL | qitto One G | 8a | LETO" | CG80" | ORERF GOBER | RATS | 1177 ANOTILAN | | % | 49 FIO" | Goer | IW Lb | Gel g & | 9G" | FL00" | FHROT | F2G8"G | GIS8'S | HIER 78 ANOTILAA, | \ G | ’ oe pa G8 Fel og | te | cero’ | aetor | Lease “++ RLOMTET LORE STOP ROG" Te" | pao" | ORSL | FLOR"9 9669 | STEGO | “TT ood | og “aU 16 The Principles of Fruit-growing. “In observing trees in continuous severe winter weather, my attention has often been ealled to the fact that the twigs seem somewhat duller and more somber than usual, and in some eases tend to shrivel up and have the appearance of drying out. When a warm spell comes, this condition changes, and the twigs become brighter and seem to freshen up, and sometimes I imagine that they become more plump. The freshening-up feature is especially noticeable on large clumps or groves of willow; the twigs usually take on a much brighter color during warm spells in winter than during the continued freezing weather. During thawing weather, the equilibrium is main- tained between the moisture or sap in the tree top and that taken in by the roots, and as fast as mois- ture evaporates from the tree top, sap flows up from the roots and the equilibrium is re-established. In freezing weather, the moisture, even though frozen, is probably evaporating from the tree tops; and the sap, being frozen, does not flow up from the roots and replace the evaporated moisture. Thus the equilibrium between the tree tops and roots is unbalanced, and it is at this time that the twigs become shriveled hy reason of moisture being lost and not replaced. “In support of these statements, I made the fol- lowing investigation: After several days of con- tinuous freezing weather, and at a time when I expected a thaw, I cut twigs of a variety of trees and estimated the percentage of moisture contained in them. Again, just as soon as a thaw came, I eut Amount of Moisture Lost in Winter. 17 twigs from the same trees and from the same parts of the trees, and estimated the percentage of moisture again, the object being to determine if the twigs contained less moisture after several days of con- tinued freezing than they did a short time later, dur- ing a thaw. The last two columns of figures in the table (pages 14 and 15) are upon this subject. The average water content of those twigs cut dur- ing a freeze was 47.27 per cent, while that of those eut later, during a thaw, was 48.40 per cent, being an increase of 1.13 per cent, even though the trees had been constantly losing moisture by evaporation. Therefore I conclude that during every thaw in winter, the tree top fills with sap, and then if a sudden severe freeze comes, we are likely to have injured trees, due, no doubt, to the sudden freezing of the sap, and to the loss of moisture when none can be supplied. “Tt will be interesting to ecaleulate what weight of moisture a tree may lose in winter. at 1,000 feet, 48 plants. “No. 3, at 50 feet, 1,130 plants; at 400 feet, 600 plants; at 700 feet, 543 plants. “In these cases the difference in stand appears to have resulted from an increasing drying action of the wind. On the majority of fields the de- structive effects of the winds were very evident to Uses of Low Wind-breaks. 51 the eye, and augmented as the distance from the wind-breaks increased. “It appears from these observations, and from the protection against drifting which is afforded by grass fields, hedge-rows and groves, that a system of ro- tation should be followed on such lands which avoids broad, continuous fields. The fields should be laid out in narrow lands, and alternate ones kept in clover and grass. Wind-breaks of suitable trees must also have a_ beneficial effect when maintained in narrow belts along line fences and railroads, and, perhaps, wagon roads, in places.” Budd writes* as follows respecting the low wind- breaks of Manitoba: ‘Professor N. E. Hansen and others recently made a trip to Indian Head and Brandon. He was surprised to find miles of low wind-break not over five or six feet in height to stop the sweep of the wind on the surface of the earth. These low hedges are made: by planting the shrubby artemisia. This grows readily from cuttings stuck in early spring, and soon attains its final height. It is really proving a blessing in that land of winds, where even the wheat is blown out of the ground if the wind is permitted to hug the earth’s surface. We found this a common shrub on the steppes of central Russia, and introduced it as an ornamental plant. The thought did not occur that it would become the most popular wind-break of the wheat districts of Manitoba and Northwest Territory.” Atmospheric drainage.—The air is rarely, if ever, * Rural Life, 1896. 52 The Principles of Fruit-growing. perfectly still. This is well illustrated in the vagaries of light frosts, which touch here and there where the air is the stillest or the radiation most rapid. This is particularly true in the growing months, when the earth becomes very warm during the day and loses the heat rapidly at nightfall, and when, also, the sky is less overcast by clouds than it is in the win- ter months. After studying the disastrous frosts of May, 1895, in the Chautauqua vineyard district, Tarr wrote* as follows: ‘The behavior of this frost was altogether remarkable, leaving some districts or vineyards almost unharmed, and nearly ruining the crop in others, while even in the same vineyard these extremes were sometimes noticed. This was probably chiefly due to eddies of the air, for even though air is almost quiet, it is still in uneven motion. One may see this illustrated on a calm day by noticing the movements of a column of smoke. The air, be- ing invisible, does not reveal these movements, and we become aware of them only when the conditions are exceptional, as when a frost is dealing out de- struction to vegetation. The condition of the ground also affects the frost, and the question whether it is dry or moist, freshly plowed or turf covered, whether there are trees or pastures or plowed ground in the neighborhood, all have their influence; but this sub- ject has never been properly studied, and it is not possible to state just how these differences affect frost action.” Much of this unrecognizable movement of the air * Bull. 109, Cornell Exp. Sta., 121, Air Drainage on a Hillside. 53 is due to the draining off or settling away of the cold air, which is densest, and therefore heaviest. It pours down the valleys of hilly and mountainous countries, and as its vapor condenses it gives rise to the valley fogs and clouds. It lies in the low places upon the farm, and there may cause frost. A person riding across an undulating country upon a still sum- mer night can scarcely fail to notice the chillier air of the depressions. This escape of the cold air is’ the secret of much of the success of fruit-growing on rolling and sloping land; and this fact explains Fig. 1. The frosty belt below a wood upon a hillside. the importance of giving great attention to the selec- tion of the site and aspect when setting a planta- tion of the tenderer fruits. Features of such little apparent importance as not to appeal to the fruit-grower often exert great influence upon the quiet movements of air. A fre- quent case is this: A strawberry field is upon a gentle slope, and on the upper side is a wood. In time of frost, the only injury occurs in a belt two or three rods wide just against the wood, in the very place where the greatest immunity was ex- pected. This is because the slight bodily movement of the air down the hillside and over the forest 54 The Principles of Fruit-growing. strikes obliquely downward from the edge of the wood-top, and leaves a narrrow belt of dead air against the timber (as at A in Fig. 1, page 53.) The atmospheric drainage is marked only in still air. Winds mix up the air, and bring it all to a comparatively uniform condition. The slightest ob- stacles may sufficiently retard the movement to leave their impress in the distribution of a light frost. A rail fence, a stone wall, a row of bushes, a slight elevation of land, the earth thrown out of a ditch,— all of these are obstacles to drainage of cold air when they extend across a slope. In some cases, there may be a difference of ten degrees in tempera- ture in as many feet of elevation. A dense row of trees standing diagonally across a slope may convey away the cold air which settles down against it, and thereby prevent injury to plants on the lower levels. It has been suggested that in certain hilly regions, levees a few feet high be built diagonally across the slopes, with ditches or moats above them to hold water, the evaporation of which would tend to raise the dew-point. The range of elevation through which atmos- pheric drainage acts beneficially to the fruit- grower is limited. " 1.28 ** NWWALCR ass ead ceeme races sen 86.05 as 202 The Principles of Fruit-growing. COW PEAS (WHIPPOORWILL) IN BLOSSOM, STRAW ONLY. Original substance. Dry substance. MAG RON acer nsanawsh gawd ek -618 per cent. 3.09 per cent. Phosphoric acid ........... a: es 5) es Potash) osiasasesauauan soe nee 396. ioe * WS? aerniaidaa ass pana 80. e RED CLOVER—AVERAGE OF SEVERAL ANALYSES. Original substance. Dry substance. NIGFOSON cic ciao des seeees .41 percent. 2.05 per cent. Phosphoric acid............. « «1B 66 oi Potash escwic< size iseare « vlgaare st 2/4 Aa) 2.24 te "Wate Pits fs. sins cee die ues Sivas Ae 80 BY CRIMSON CLOVER (TRIFOLIUM INCARNATUM). Original substance. Dry substance. INTRO SEN ei. ticis wiviecadloawasener -43 percent. 2.45 per cent. Phosphorie €0i0,. ncccscaaaen a alZi Ef «74 e Potas De cascawasgesasceiecied 49 ae 2.80 af WetGrsatasionxs seas ems wa g2o0 FERTILIZING THE FRUIT PLANTATION. Having now discussed how, by tillage and cover erops, the land may be made fit for the growing of fruit plants, we come to the question of what plant-foods may be added to the soil. It should first be said that fruit plants use up _ plant-foods Note. The following figures show the approximate quantities of seed which are recommended per acre for cover crops in young orchards : OE io edatcaimacdwiciecrciaweis 1 to 1% bus. RIGS, caer ammachnene as 4 2% to3 “* Peas scaycn in aaas ahah seats 2te3 “ Ee Gancas oh yeceneoss Hee 1% to 2% “* SPO ise neecien taker ens 6to1l2 “ GF AT Passat seen canes ous 3 to 4 Ibs. MGtehi cass iessicanid asters emanec ace ne 1 bus. Plant-food Removed by Trees. 203 the same as other crops, and yet the common neglect. of orchards seems to show that many people think otherwise, or else do not. think at all. In fact, the depletion of the land by fruit trees is more serious than by annual crops, from the fact that plant- foods are locked up for many years in the trunks and branches of the trees, whilst a large part of the fertilizing constituents in common erops returns to the soil each year. On the other hand, it should be said that the roots of trees have a larger foraging area than the roots of small crops do. This is well shown in Figs. 17 and 18 (pages 160 and 162). The former shows the roots running far away in the poorly tilled soil in search of food, and the latter shows the home-staying roots in the rich soil. Roberts has computed,* from analyses, the values of nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash taken from an acre by apple trees (the trees thirty-five feet apart) in twenty years, counting in ten crops of fruit : Value. “Total in fruit for twenty years.......... erty ot tediere eS $147.00 Total in leaves for twenty years..............-eee eee 160.51 Total in wood for life of tree... ..04scscvs sean reece ee 70.00 Grand total. ...... see cece eee eee eee eee eee $377.51 “The value of nitrogen, ete., in any given case is so indefinite and variable that stress should not be laid on values as given above, but on the total amounts of plant-food used by the orchard. *Bull. 103, Cornell Exp. Station. 204 The Principles of Fruit-growing. “The total amount of nitrogen, exclusive of that used in the growth of the trees, is 1,336.8 pounds, of phosphoric acid 310 pounds, and of potash 1,895.4 pounds. To restore the potash alone, as above, and that used by the growth of the tree, it would re- quire 21.69 tons of high-grade ashes containing 5 per cent of potash. To restore the nitrogen as above, would require 16.19 tons per acre of a com- mercial fertilizer containing 5 per cent of nitrogen. “How much of this plant-food is usually fur- nished to the orchard by leguminous plants and by feeding supplementary foods to animals which graze upon it, and how much by the fallen leaves and apples which are not blown or carried off, cannot be told. "While some of the computations and conclusions are based on estimates, yet it is believed that the tables represent average conditions, and need only the good judgment of the observant reader to make them apply to his individual ease with such degree of accuracy as to give valuable aid in the care and feeding of orchards. “Many old orchards have not only been making these large demands on the soil for the last twenty years, but in many instances the land has been used for the production of hay or grain, or more fre- quently for the growing of lambs or pigs, with little or no supplementary food. The grazing of orchards, expecially with growing animals without extra food, is as certain to deplete the land as grain raising, though the soil robbery is not so rapid. Plant-food Consumed by Apples. 205 “These investigations, when considered in all their bearings, lead one to wonder not why old orchards are failing, but why they have not ceased to pro- duce merchantable fruit long since.” Another ealeulation by the same _ investigator shows the amount of plant-food which may be ex- pected to be carried away in the fruit, and blown off in: the leaves (not computing the amount in the wood), for the period between the ages of 13 and 33 years of apple trees: Apples. Leaves. Value. WNUGPOP CT ae saya serecreeicis as 498.60 Ibs. 456.75 lbs. $143.30 Phosphoric acid ........ 38.25 ¢ 126; gy 11.50 Potash « tere dean te ows 728.55 ** 441, oe 52.63 Total value.sccs ois. $207.45 “While the above results are reached by assum- ing a given amount of apples and leaves per year in a bearing orchard, and while the facts in any given case at any given time may vary widely, yet it is believed that they are valuable, as they fur- nish a means of measuring in any given case, with a great degree of accuracy, the amount of soil ex- haustion.” He also “shows that an average crop of apples removes in round numbers eleven pounds of nitro- gen, nearly one pound of phosphoric acid and six- teen pounds of potash, and that the leaves of a tree large enough to produce the apples would con- tain ten pounds of nitrogen, nearly three pounds of phosphoric acid and ten pounds of potash, or a total 206 The Principles of Fruit-growing. of twenty-one pounds nitrogen, three pounds phos- phorie acid, twenty-six pounds potash.” “As a clearer comprehension is had by comparing unfamiliar things with familiar things, a table follows which gives in brief the soil exhaustion which is likely to oceur from a continuous twenty-year wheat production. Here, again, an average yield has been assumed which, while approximately correct for New York, may be wide of the mark in some states where the average yield of wheat falls to eight or ten bush- els per acre. “The following tables show the amounts and values of the fertilizing ingredients removed by wheat (grain and straw) in twenty years’ continuous crop- ping, assuming an average yield of fifteen bushels per acre and seven pounds of straw to three pounds of graln: “COMPOSITION CF WHEAT AND STRAW. Water, Nitrogen, Phos. acid, Potash, per cent. per cent. per cent. per cent. CPB coy wees GREY 8X 14.75 2.36 89 -61 BUPOW ocak die e mag 0% 12.56 -559 12 -51 “AMOUNTS AND VALUE OF PLANT-FOOD REMOVED IN ONE YEAR AND IN TWENTY YEARS. Nitrogen, Phos,acid, Potash, Total Ibs. lbs. lbs. value. Grain, 1 year. co. ans 21.24 8.01 5.49 $3.99 Grain, 20 years...... 424.80 160.20 109.80 79.86 Straw, l year ....... 11.74 2.52 10.71 242 Straw, 20 years...... 234.78 50.40 214.20 48.37 Total value in wheat, grain and straw for 20 years. $128.23 Total value in apple, fruit and leaves for 20 years.. 207.45 “The above table shows that the orchard requires, Needs of Fruit Trees. 207 if fruitful, plant-food equal in value to eighty-seven dollars more than the wheat. No one would think for a moment of trying to raise wheat, even on our best New York land, for twenty consecutive years, even though the soil was fitted in the best possible manner yearly.” Respecting the need of fertilizers for orchards, Voorhees writes as follows:* “It is argued by many, and sometimes by those who should know better, that fruit-growing is quite similar to growing trees; that the question of soil exhaustion is not a matter of very great importance, provided the soil is well culti- vated, and that all soils contain sufficient quantities of the food elements to insure the relatively small available supply required from year to year. “Tt is admitted that on soils of good mechanical condition, well drained and cultivated, which are naturally adapted for fruit as well as other crops, )be- cause well supplied with the essential constituents— nitrogen, phosphoric acid, potash, and _ lime — the exhaustion arising from the continuous removal of crops will not become apparent for a long time, but it should be emphasized that it is only upon soils which possess these characteristics that the growth of fruit, even poor fruit, can be continued for any considerable period without the application of manures.” “Tt is obvious that such specific results as have been obtained concerning the needs of general farm *E, B. Voorhees, “Manuring Orchards”, before Mass. Hort. Soc. Mar. 28, 1896. 208 The Principles of Fruit-growing. crops, as grain and grass, for specific plant-food ele- ments, cannot be applied with any degree of accuracy to fruit crops, particularly the larger fruits, as pears, apples, peaches, grapes, and plums, because these dif- fer from the cereals, grasses, and vegetables, first, in their habits of growth, second, in the character of the produce, and third, in their relation to soil ex- haustion. “Tn the first place, farm crops, as a rule, require but one year for the entire processes of vegetation and maturation. For fruit crops, with but few ex- ceptions, the purely vegetative processes continue for at least three years, and with many kinds much longer, while after the fruit-bearing period begins the vegetative processes do not cease, but are coincident with the growth and ripening of the fruit. In the second place, the product of the harvest, namely, the fruit, differs very materially in its character from that of ordinary farm crops, which mature their fruit and die in one season, because a whole season is re- quired for its growth and development; that is, it is necessary that there shall be a constant transfer of the nutritive juices from the tree to the fruit throughout the entire growing season, while the growth for each sueceeding year of both tree and fruit is dependent upon the nutrition acquired and stored up in buds and branches, as well as upon that which may be derived directly from the soil. In the third place, the relation of fruit-growing to soil ex- haustion is very different from that in general-crop farming, because in orchards there is an annual de- Needs of Fruit Trees. 209 mand for specific kinds and proportions of soil con- stituents; it is really a continuous cropping of the same kind; there is no opportunity, as in the case of ordinary farm crops, to correct the tendency to exhaustion by a frequent change of crops, or the frequent growth of those which require different kinds and amounts of plant-food constituents. “In studying methods of manuring orchards, how- ever, it must be admitted that the general princi- ples of manuring which apply to fruits apply quite as well to farm crops; that is, the essential con- stituents of manures must be the same. A fruit tree will not make normal growth in a soil destitute of nitrogen. That nitrogen encourages leaf-growth is a recognized fact, and, since trees grow by means of both leaf and root, its presence is required in the soil in order to promote the growth and extend the life of the tree. It is very evident, too, that pot- ash is an essential constituent in the growth of fruits, not only because it constitutes a large pro- portion of the ash of the wood of the apple, pear, cherry, and plum, and more than 50 per cent of the ash of fruit, but because it forms the base of the well-known fruit acids; and in order to nourish a tree properly, as well as to insure proper ripen- ing, phosphoric acid is also very essential, though it is apparent from such investigations as have been made that this constituent is relatively of less importance than for the cereals. “It is also a matter of common observation that, in the production of stone-fruits particularly, lime ce) 210 The Principles of Fruit-growing. is an important constituent. Its function seems to be to strengthen the stems and woody portion of the tree, to shorten the period of growth, and to hasten the time of ripening. Fruit trees growing on soils rich in lime show a stocky, steady, vigorous growth, and the fruit ripens well, while those on soils which contain but little lime, particularly the clays, appear to have an extended period of growth, the result of which is, that the wood does _ not mature and the fruit does not ripen properly.” Voorhees also reports* an experiment in the fer- tilizing of peaches, showing large gains in crop from the separate use of stable manure and fertilizer. “Tt is interesting to observe,” he writes—“and it is a point of great importance—the effect of an abundance of food in overcoming unfavorable weather or seasonal conditions. The year 1889 was extremely unfavorable, and the crop throughout the state [New Jersey] was small. In this experiment the unmanured plot yielded at the rate of ten and nine-tenths bas- kets per acre, while the manured and fertilized plots both showed a yield exceeding one hundred and fifty baskets per acre. The manure strengthened and stimulated the trees, and enabled them successfully to resist such conditions as were fatal to the crop on the unmanured land. This point is one that is seldom considered in calculating the advantages to be derived from proper manuring, though it is of extreme value, since the expenses of cultivation, trim- * See, also, Repts. N. J. Exp. Sta., 1884-1894, Stable Manures for Fruits. 211 ming, and interest on investment are quite as great in one case as in the other.” Stable manure.—The kinds of fertilizing applica- tions are of two types, stable manures and concen- trated or commercial plant-foods. The stable manures exercise a most important effect upon the physical features of the soil, and, in fact, this is often their greatest value. In this respect, stable manures may answer much the same purpose as green or cover crops, particularly if they are applied in fall or early winter. When manure is not sufficient to cover the entire plantation, it should be applied to the hardest and driest spots only, and these spots should be observed and noted the previous season. Lands which are so hard or dry that even rye will not catch, may be got under way for the cover crops by liberal applications of barn manures. Rota- tion in the use of fertilizers may be found to be as useful as it is in the case of cover crops. A soil which has had a liberal application of stable manure one year, may profit more by some chemical fertilizer the next year. In orchards which are thorougly tilled, the use of barn manures should sometimes be discouraged, for the chief element of fertility in them—if they are not leached—is usually nitrogen. This advice is particularly applicable to vineyards, and all other fruits which run very strongly to wood. In such cases, it is better economy to apply the manures to the annual crops of the farm. The old, neglected apple orchards of the country, however, may receive 212 The Principles of Fruit-growing. barn manures with safety; yet, even here it is a question if economy would not. dictate tillage and late green manures to supply the nitrogen, except, perhaps, for a season or two when an attempt is making to rejuvenate an orchard. Mulching a sod orchard with manure often gives fairly good results in cases in which the land cannot be cultivated; but better results in the way of fertilizing and in freedom from weeds and insects can be obtained by pastur- ing closely with sheep or swine. Chemical fertilizers. — Nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus are the elements which need to be ap- plied to orchard lands; and to these should some- times be added lime, mostly for its secondary effects upon the soil. Nitrogen is particularly efficacious in promoting growth. “The general tendency of nitrogenous ma- nures is toward the excessive production of wood and foliage,” writes E. F. Smith, after having made many explicit experiments upon peach trees.* In fact, the amount of growth and the color of foliage are reliable guides for the application of nitrogen. When mature or bearing trees make a foot or more of growth upon all shoots, and when the leaves are of good size and dark color, the orchard probably has enough nitrogen. A free application of nitrogen to such orchards might do more harm than good, in promoting growth at the expense of fruit, or, in the case of some stone fruits, in pro- * Bull. 9, Section of Veg. Path., Botanical Div. U.S. Dept. Agr., 142. Nitrogen for Orchards. 218 ducing a poorly matured growth, which will be likely to suffer in winter. Orchards are grown for fruit, not for forestry purposes. In general, it is better to supply nitrogen by good cultivation—which assists nitrification—and an occasional green-manure crop, than by the application of nitrogenous fertilizers. If the orchard is not growing, and is yellowish in foliage, good cultivation—begun early and repeated very frequently—in connection with the use of pot- ash, phosphoric acid and green manures, will com. monly correct it. It is probable that lack of moisture is quite as much the cause of the weak- ness as lack of nitrogen, particularly if the orchard has been in sod. Now and then a tree will be found which fails to respond to ordinary treatment. If the tree is healthy—that is, not attacked by dis- ease or borers—it may sometimes be brought into a vigorous condition by applying to it a_ light dressing of nitrate of soda; but this treatment need seldom be applied to an entire orchard which has been well handled. An experiment made by the Cornell Station (and unreported) gave very decided results from the use of nitrate of soda alone. An apple orchard about twenty-five years old and unproductive, standing upon a rather hard and dryish light clay loam, was plowed in the fall of 1894, and certain trees were given an application of ten pounds of nitrate of soda. Contiguous rows received heavy applications of sulfate of potash and muriate of potash. All materials were applied October 1, 1894. The or- 214 The Principles of Fruit-growing. chard was plowed again in the fall of 1895, and a third time in the spring of 1896. None of the dressings showed any effect in 1895, but in 1896 the trees which had received the nitrate of soda were very remarkably superior to those which had received the other treatments and to those which had received none. They had very much heavier and darker green foliage, so that they could be readily distinguished many rods away, and they had a heavier load of fruit, which was larger and finer than that upon the other trees. This heavier crop was probably not due to more profuse blossoming, but to a less dropping of young apples. The potash-treated rows showed some improvement over adjoining trees, but the result was not marked. It is probable that the beneficial results of the potash are yet to come. Nitrogen-fertilizing often exerts a decided influ- ence in delaying the maturity of fruit, and it is worth while to consider the application of such fertil- izers to winter apples which tend to ripen too early. These fertilizers also tend to the production of low colors in fruit. Lodeman found,* as the result of experiment, that “the apples produced upon the plot which -was, in all probability, the richest in nitrogen, were late, and they were also poorly colored.” Potash is generally the most important element to be apphed directly to orchards, particularly after * Rural New-Yorker, Jan. 2, 1897, 2. Potash for Fruits. 215 the trees have reached bearing age. The store of available potash in the soil is much increased by the thorough tillage which has already been recom- mended, but in bearing orchards it should also be supplied every year in some commercial form. One of the best sources of potash for orchards is wood ashes, but this material is so often weakened by leaching that it cannot be confidently recommended. A good sample of unleached hard wood ashes should contain from 5 to 9 per cent of potash, but some of the commercial article does not analyze above 2 to 3 per cent. Potash in this form has a trade value of 4% cents per pound. To this value of wood ashes should also be added 2 per cent or less of phosphoric acid, now worth 6 cents a pound. Forty to fifty bushels to the acre is considered to be a good dressing of wood ashes, if it has been kept dry. Muriate of potash is perhaps the best and most reliable form in which to secure potash at the present time for fruits. Commercial samples gener- ally contain from 80 to 85 per cent of muriate of potash, or about 50 per cent of actual potash. Kainit is an impure muriate of potash, containing about 12 to 15 per cent of potash. An apple or- chard in full bearing and upon loose soil may receive as high as one thousand pounds of muriate of potash per acre, but a normal and economical application is from one hundred and fifty to three hundred pounds, if applied every year. Sulfate of potash is also thought to be a good form in which 216 The Principles of Friuit-growing. to buy potash. The commercial article analyzes 50 per cent or less of actual potash. Sylvinit is a lower grade of potassium fertilizer. Its value—like that of other materials mentioned—should be reck- oned upon the amount of potash present. Phosphoric acid may be obtained in the form of a high-grade plain superphosphate (like dissolved South Carolina rock), in bone compounds, and Thomas slag. The plain superphosphate contains about 16 or 18 per cent of phosphoric acid, and two hun- dred to five hundred pounds per acre is a liberal and very useful dressing for bearing orchards. The bone fertilizers are always valuable. Those which are untreated give up their phosphoric acid slowly, unless they are very finely ground. Dissolved bone gives more immediate results. Thomas or basic slag, which is yet less known to farmers in this country, has given good results in many tests, but it parts with its fertility very slowly. It is yet too early to recommend this material for orchards with full confidence. In general, phosphoric acid is probably less im- portant in fruit plantations than potash, although this order is reversed in general farming. Potash should undoubtedly be the leading factor in orchard fertilizers, and nitrogen may be obtained largely, or even wholly, in some cases, by means of tillage and green crops. It will then be seen that the use of combined or “complete” commercial fertilizers may not be economical. The best results are to be ex- pected when the fruit-grower observes closely the Fertilizing Orchards. 217 behavior of his trees and then applies such materials as the plants appear to need. Any of the mate- rials mentioned in the foregoing remarks may be mixed together, so that the phosphorus and_ potas- sium can be applied at the same sowing. It should be said, however, that if wood ashes is mixed with a nitrogenous fertilizer, some loss of nitrogen may ensue, unless the material is used at once.* Voorhees givest the following “practical sugges- tions” for the fertilizing of orchards: “A system of manuring for cultivated orchards, based upon the limited data at our disposal, may be outlined as follows : “To provide vegetable matter and to improve the physical quality of poor soils, apply yard manure once in four years, in fall or winter, at the rate of from five to ten tons per acre. To aid in the decomposition of vegetable matter, and to insure a *To answer inquiries concerning the prices of fertilizing materials, it may be said that muriate of potash costs $40 and upwards per ton, sulfate about $48, dissolved boneblack about $24, ground bone about $30, kainit about $13, and nitrate of soda 244 cents per pound. These prices vary, of course, with the composition or mechanical condition of the materials. The average com- position of unleached ashes in the market is about as follows: Potash, 5.25 per cent; phosphoric acid, 1.70 per cent; lime, 34 per cent; magnesia, 3.40 per cent. The average composition of kainit is 13.54 per cent potash, 1.15 per cent lime. The composition of sylvinit (which is said to be known as sulfate of potash in some quarters) is about 16 per cent of potash, in the form of both muriate and sulfate, mostly the former. The fact that the soil itself is the greatest storehouse of plant-food is shown by the follow- ing average of thirty-five analyses of the total content of the first, eight inches of surface soils, per acre: 3,521 pounds of nitrogen, 4,400 pounds of phosphorie acid, 19,886 pounds of potash. Much of this is unavailable, but the good tillage and cover cropping which have been recommended tend to unlock it. +E. B. Voorhees, address before Mass. Hort. Soe. Mar, 28, 1896. 218 The Principles of Fruit-growing. sufficiency of lime as plant-food, apply lime at the rate of twenty-five bushels per acre once in five years. To provide, in addition, an abundance of all forms of available plant-food at the times needed for the development of the tree and fruit, apply annually chemical fertilizers in the following pro- portions : WNITPATONOL SOD Aiscs, iaijscadeseiacie aarsselo vend anew HERE SS BEES 100 Ibs. South Carolina rock superphosphate................ 100 ‘ Ground-boned.).isveoseans haeae toe da tevad cules bea 200: 5 Muriateof potash s i: scss ssa sewed veo dais oa ka 8 200 “The amounts to be applied depend upon the character of the soils, as previously outlined, the kind of fruit, and the age and vigor of the tree; these given perhaps mark the minimum. “In a number of best orchards the quantities applied are very much larger than is here indicated, and the larger application is believed by the grow- ers to be proportionately profitable. “By the recent introduction of crimson clover, we have a plant admirably adapted to supply cheaply nitrogenous vegetable matter for orchards, and _ its growth is to be recommended wherever the plant ean be successfully grown, instead of the use of barnyard manure, particularly upon the poorest soils, until they are abundantly supplied with vegetable matter. The clover should be plowed down early in the season, in order not to retard the spring growth of the trees. Where the conditions are favorable for the growth of clover, the application of nitrate of soda may be omitted.” What Treatment is Necded. 219 - Summary statement.—The fruit-grower will no doubt desire to ask how he is to tell just what kind and what quantity of fertilizers to apply to his land. This is one of those questions which no person can answer for him. MHaving studied the matter carefully, and having observed his plantation from day to day and year to year, he should be able to discover about the treatment which it needs. As a general statement, it may be said that the fruit plantation which is giving satisfactory results is receiving the very treatment which it needs; but when it is giving unsatisfactory yields, some change in the management should be made. An_ orchard which is in sod and not doing well should certainly be plowed and tilled. One which is tilled and is not doing well may be benefited by seeding down, or it may not. If the growth is strong and rapid, and the trees or vines seem to be going to wood at the expense of fruit, then some check may be necessary. This check may be given by seeding down for a time, by giving somewhat less thorough or prolonged cultivation, or by the use of rather more mineral fertilizers and less nitrogenous ones. In all cases in which the growth is not sufficient and the leaves are yellow and drop early, it is probable that either more nitrogen or more moisture, or both, is needed. As a general principle, it may be said that nitrogen can be had in sufficient amount by thorough and judicious tillage, by the use of leguminous cover crops, and by stable manure. In some cases, how- ever, quicker and cheaper results may be had by 220 The Principles of Fruit-growing. the direct addition of nitrogenous materials, like nitrate of soda, sulfate of ammonia, or some of the animal compounds. The grower should also remember that the plants need all the elements of plant growth, and not one of them alone. For example, a heavy application of nitrogen upon soil which is deficient in potash and phosphoric acid cannot be expected to give useful results. In the same way, the application of pot- ash to soil which is very poor in nitrogen or phos- phorie acid would be comparatively useless. The heavy loamy or clay lands nearly always contain an abundance of potash and phosphoric acid in a more or less unavailable condition, and much of these materials can be liberated to the plant by care- ful tillage and the incorporation of humus. MHow- ever, it is nearly always advisable, in orchards which are bearing, to add these materials in the shape of manures or concentrated fertilizers. The quickest results following the use of fertilizers will be seen upon the sandier lands. Two or three years often elapse after the application of chemical fertilizers to heavy lands before any decided results are observed. In other words, clay lands ordinarily show quicker results from tillage than they do from the application of fertilizers. The farmer should bear in mind that he should never rely exclusively upon chemical plant-foods, because they contain no humus, and the soil is apt to become hard and _ life- less. They should be used in judicious rotation, or in connection with cover crops, or stable manures, Humus Improves the Land. 221 or applications of muck or some other organic dress- ings. It is not necessary that the chemical fertil- izers should be mixed before application; in fact, upon lands of varying soil and conformation, it is ordinarily better to apply the different ingredients separately, because different parts of the plantation may need different amounts of the various materials. The low lands will ordinarily need less of the nitro- gen and perhaps more of the potash and phosphoric acid. In general, it is advisable to buy the plant- foods separately, as advised in the preceding pages. Farmers do not appreciate the importance of humus as an ameliorator of land. In farm lands, it is usually supplied in form of green crops, stubble or sward, and barn manures. When humus is ab- sent, sandy soils become too loose and leachy and hot, and clay soils bake and become lumpy. The different physical characteristics of clay lumps and mellow soils are largely due to the greater amount of humus in the good soil, and yet we have seen that the chemist may pronounce the cloddy soil richer in native plant-food. If the farmer has much of this hard, unproductive land, what is to be done with it? To cover it with commercial fer- tilizer would be of little benefit. It must first be put in fit condition for the growing of crops. A crop of clover plowed under would quickly improve it, but if the land is planted to orchard he does not care to seed it down. The next recourse is stable manure. Of this, perhaps enough can be had to cover the hardest spots. For the rest, 222 The Principles of Fruit-growing. catch or cover crops must be used. Following the early tillage, he can sow rye, and plow it under very early in the spring. Now and then he can use a fall erop of sowed corn or oats, or something of the kind. After a time, he may be able to get the land in such condition of tilth as to secure an occasional stand of crimson clover. This practice, continued judiciously for a few years, ought to radi- cally change the character of the land; but all this will be of little avail unless the plowing and cul- tivation can also be done in a timely and_ intelli- gent way. All this will take time and patience. He may wish that there were some short-cut and lazy way of improving this land by making some appli- cation of fertilizer to it, but there is not. The most he can do is to slowly bring it into such condition that it will pay to put concentrated fertiliz- ers on it. In short, the first step in the enrichment of unproductive land is to improve its physical con- dition by means of careful and thorough tillage, by the addition of humus, and perhaps by underdrainage. It must first be put in such condition that plants can grow in it. After that, the addition of chemi- cal fertilizers may pay by giving additional or re- dundant growth. All this means that no amount of penance in the way of applications to the land can ever atone for the sins of poor tillage; or, farm- ing cannot be done by recipe. The gist of the whole matter respecting the use of fertilizers is that the grower should experiment with his plantation, adding a little more of this Summary Conclusions. 223 and a little more of that as he thinks the different trees or the different types of land may need. There is no other way of arriving at this local knowledge except by trying for oneself. If one is observant of the conditions, he will after a time come to have an intuitive sense of what the land prob- ably needs, but he may not be able to tell just why it needs it. In most matters of handicraft in agriculture, the skilled man develops methods and results almost unconsciously. These methods are really founded upon close observation and truthful inductions, but the person can rarely ever impart this particular information to his neighbor. The only general statement, perhaps, which can be made, is that liberal applications of potash and_ phos- phoric acid should nearly always be made to bearing fruit plants, if the grower desires the best results; and he may be able to supply his nitrogen more cheaply by cover crops and tillage than by buying chemicals, CHAPTER V. THE PLANTING OF FRUIT GROUNDS. ©‘ THE subjects which one naturally considers when starting out to begin the planting of a fruit area fall into four categories,—the choice of the varie- ties, the selection of the trees or plants, the actual setting of the stock, and’ the laying out of the fruit plantation. These matters may now be con- sidered. THE CHOICE OF VARIETIES. The most personal matter connected with the making of a fruit farm is the subject of choice of varieties. This is the one subject upon which most questions are asked, and it is also the one upon which the least specific and dogmatic advice can be given. The choice of varieties depends primarily upon the personal preferences of the grower, upon the purpose for which the fruit is to be grown, and upon the locality. Without knowing these three elements, it is impossible for any person to give satisfactory advice as to varieties. The grower who has no personal preferences for varieties is one who has not yet mastered the first essential to (224) Choosing the Varieties. 225 successful fruit-growing,—the obtainment of a spe- cific ideal. In the greater number of cases it is easy to answer questions as to what varieties to plant by asking the questioner what he wants to plant. He will commonly answer his own question fully. The intelligent question about varieties is that which asks for specific information; as, for example: What is the best red fall apple for southern Ohio? What is the earliest raspberry? What is the hardi- est apricot? What is the largest plum? What is the best strawberry for canning? Such questions as these indicate that the questioner has classified his own ideas, and that he is driving straight to the point for information; and they are usually capable of rather definite answer. When a man asks, “What variety of fruit shall I plant?” no one should attempt to answer. The writer has long since come to the practice of refusing to recom- mend specific varieties to individual persons. He prefers to name those varieties which he thinks might please himself for the purpose or place named, or to give lists of the kinds most likely to meet the requirements; but the grower must choose for himself. There are a few general rules or precepts which may be stated to aid the intending fruit-planter in the choice of varieties:* 1. So far as possible, follow your own personal preferences,—the type of fruits which you love best *The whole question of the running out of varieties is discussed in “The Survival of the Unlike.” P 226 The Principles of Fruit-growing. or take most interest in. ‘These are the ones with which you will most likely succeed. 2. Obtain a clear and specific ideal of the pur- pose for which the fruit is to be grown,— whether for dessert, for canning, for a local market, for ex- port, for evaporating, and the like. Then choose the varieties which are best suited to meet these ideals. 3. Do not covet a variety simply because it is eminently successful in another region. Varieties have distinct adaptations to geographical areas. If a given variety is a universal success in the plains regions, the probabilities are that it will not thrive equally well in New England. The farmers of the east have learned that they cannot compete with those of the west in the growing of wheat, but they have not yet learned that one region may not be able to compete with another in some particular variety of fruit, even though the variety thrive well in both. It is a question if the northeastern states can compete with the mid-western states in the growing of the Ben Davis apple. The south and mid-south are being planted extensively to the Kieffer pear, largely because it thrives better over a large area than most other varieties. It is doubt- ful, then, if it is wise to plant it extensively in the north, where other pears will thrive which do not sueceed in the Kieffer region. Diversification must come to be more and more important in fruit-growing; and any region should grow that type of fruit most freely which other regions can- not grow so well. Choosing the Varieties. 227 4. Choose with reference to the local environment. One must consider the adaptation of the variety to his particular climate, to the probable length of his season, to his distance from market, and to his system of husbandry. The adaptation of varieties to soils is an important consideration, and one which demands closer attention as cultivation becomes more intense and perfect. As a rule, the finer the variety in quality, the less able it is to thrive equally well under diverse ‘methods of treatment. It is partly for this reason that des- sert fruits are commonly regarded as unreliable and difficult to grow. Fig. 22. Strawberry One can scarcely hope for success in S°*e'S modified by the best horticulture unless he gives particular study to the adaptations of species and varieties to soils. 5. Choose with reference to inter-pollination. It is known that some varieties of fruits are self-sterile,— that is, they are not fertile with themselves. This sterility may be due, as in the ease of the straw- berry, to imperfect (or unisexual) flowers, or, more commonly, to pollen which is impotent upon the pistils of the same flower.* This infertility or self- sterility is largely a varietal characteristic, yet it is no doubt greatly modified by seasonal and environ- *For a discussion of the philosophy of this self-sterility, see the essay on “Sex in Fruits,” in “Survival of the Unlike,” p. 347. 228 The Principles of Fruit-growing. mental conditions. It is probable that varieties may sometimes be self-fertile and at other times self- sterile. The strawberry flowers in Fig. 22 show the marked influence upon pollen-bearing which is ex- erted by different conditions. The flowers are of the same variety, and were grown under glass. The lower one shows the small development of stamens in a long cloudy spell, and the upper one shows the profusion of stamens which appeared in other flowers after two or three days of sunshine. It is probable that pollen is more profuse and more potent in some years than in others. There is very little positive knowledge concerning the inter-pollination of fruits,* and no subject con- nected with pomology is in greater need of study. We chiefly know that the most productive orchards are usually those of many varicties, and that some varieties sometimes refuse to fertilize themselves. The most positive knowledge respecting the impotency of pollen amongst our common fruits is in connection with the plums of the Wild Goose type. The safest practice, therefore, is to plant no more than two rows of any one variety together in fruits in which (like many apples and pears) self-sterility is often apparent. The following lists of self-sterile and self-fertile fruits are summaries of our present knowledge.’ *The best presentations of the subject are M. B. Waite’s “Pollination of Pear Flowers,” Bull. 6, Div. Veg. Pathology, U. S. Dept. Agrie., 1894; and S. A. Beach, in 13th Annual Rept. N. Y. State Exp. Sta., 633-648, 1894; also, Waugh on Pollination of Plums,” Bull. 53, Vt. Exp. Sta., 1896. Impotent Fruits. 229 Pears (Waite)— Varieties more or less self-sterile.— Anjou, Bartlett, Boussoeck, Clairgeau, Clapp, Colum- bia, De la Chéne, Doyenne Sieulle, Easter, Gansel’s Bergamotte, Gray Doyenne, Howell, Jones, Lawrence, Louise Bonne, Mount Vernon, Pound, Sheldon, Souvenir du Congres, Superfin, Colonel Wilder, Winter Nelis. Varieties generally self-fertile.—Angouléme, Bose, Brockworth, Buffum, Diel, Doyenne d’Alencon, Flem- ish Beauty, Heathcote, Kieffer, Le Conte, Manning Elizabeth, Seckel, Tyson, White Doyenne. Apples (Waite and Fairchild)— Varieties more or less self-sterile.—Bellfleur, Chenango (Strawberry), Gravenstein, King, Northern Spy, Norton Melon, Primate, Rambo, Red Astrachan, Roxbury Russet, Spitzenburgh, Talman Sweet. Varieties mostly self-fertile.— Baldwin, Codlin, Greening. “The varieties of apples are more inclined to be sterile to their own pollen than the pears. With the former, in the great majority of cases, no fruit resulted from self-pollination. The results, as w rule, however, were less clear-cut than in the pear, because, with most of the self-sterile varieties, an occasional fruit will set under self-pollination, and none of the varieties were very completely self-fertile.”— Faite. Other fruits.—Many of the native plums are no- toriously self-sterile, particularly Wild Goose.* Other self-sterile varieties are Miner, Wazata, Minnetonka, Itasca. Varieties more or less self-fertile are More- * Wild Goose is well pollinated by Moreman, Newman, Smiley and Miner, according to J. W. Kerr. 230 The Principles of Fruit-growing. man, Newman, Wayland, Golden Beauty, Marianna, Deep Creek, Purple Yosemite. Strawberries often lack stamens altogether, whilst others, like Crescent, have so few and so poor stamens that they are practically self-sterile. Ordi- narily, there should be a row of a_perfect-flowered variety for every two rows of a pistillate or infer- tile variety. “The quince seems to fruit nearly as well with its own pollen as with that of another variety.”— Maite. Grapes (Beach)—Unfruitful when planted by them- selves.—Black Eagle, Brighton, Eumelan, Massasoit, Wilder, Rogers’ No. 5, Gaertner, Merrimac, Requa, Aminia, Essex, Barry, Herbert, Salem. Able to set fruit of themselves.—Concord, Dia- mond, Niagara, Winchell or Green Mountain, Rogers’ Nos. 13, 24, and 32, Agawam, Delaware. 6. Determine which are the best varieties for your purpose by experimenting, and by diligent inquiry of neighbors, pomologists, nurseryinen, books, experi- ment stations,* and of marketmen. THE SELECTION OF THE PLANTS. It is first of all necessary, in selecting the plants for fruit grounds, to determine what first-class stock is. “The nurseryman contends that he grows the * Notes upon the uses of variety tests by experiment stations will be found in “Survival of the Unlike,” pp. 171 and 370. +The Methods of propagating fruit plants are fully set forth in “The Nursery-Book.” First-class Stock. 231 varieties which the planters want — those for which there is a demand. As a matter of fact, he largely forees the demand by magnifying the value of those varieties which are good growers in the nursery. The nurseryman’s business ends with the growing of the young tree, and the tree which makes the straightest, most rapid and cleanest growth is the one which finds the readiest sale. Now, it by no means follows that the variety which is the cheapest and best for the nurseryman to grow is the best for the fruit-grower. Probably every apple-grower is now ready to admit that the Baldwin has been too much planted, whilst Canada Red and various other varie- ties which are poor growers in the nursery row have been too little planted. “The blame for this condition of things does not rest wholly with the nurseryman, although it is partly lis fault. The original difficulty lies in the fact, it seems to me, that our conception, and con- sequently our definition, of what constitutes a first- class tree is at variance with the truth. We con- ceive a first-class nursery tree to be one which grows straight and smooth, tall and stocky, whilst we know that very mauy — perhaps half—the varieties of apples and pears and plums will not grow that way. In order to make our conception true, we grow those varieties which will satisfy the definition, and, as a result, there is a constant tendency to elminate from our lists some of the best and most profitable varieties. “All this could be remedied if people were to be 232 The Principles of Fruit-growing. taught that varieties of fruit trees may be just as different and distinct in habit of growth as they are in kind of fruit, and that a first-class tree is a well- grown specimen which has the characteristics of the variety. It seems to me that it is time for nursery- men to begin to enforce this conception upon the public. Why may not a catalogue explain that a tree may be first-class and yet be crooked and gnarly? Why not place the emphasis upon health and vigor, and not upon mere shape and comeli- ness? And why may not a nurseryman give a list of those varieties which are comely growers, and another list of those which are wayward growers ?”* It is generally best to buy first-class trees,— those which are of medium size for their age, shapely in body and head, stocky, with straight, clean trunks and abundant roots, which are not stunted, and are free of borers and other injuries, and, in the case of budded trees, those in which the union is very near the ground; and the tree should show the natural characteristics of the va- riety. In dwarf pears, especially, it is important that the stock, to be first-class, shall be budded very low. It is often thought that large size is of itself a great merit in a nursery tree, but this is an error. Vigor, cleanness, stockiness, firm, hard growth, are much more important than _ bigness. The toughest and best trees are usually those of medium size. The very small extra expense which *¢The Survival of the Unlike,” p. 246. Age of Plants for Setting. 233 one incurs in buying the best trees is a good in- vestment. In an acre of apple trees, the difference in cost of first-class over second-class trees will not be more than a dollar or two, but the differ- ence in results is often great. The ave at which plants should be bought must be governed by circumstances and by variety. There is a general tendency to buy trees too old rather than too young. When varieties are new and scarce, it may be economy to buy young stock. Some of the freer-growing apples and pears are large enough when two years old, if grown from buds; but these fruits are usually set at three years from the bud or graft. Dwarf pears may be set at two or three years, preferably at the former age. Quinces are set at two and three years. Peaches are set at one year from the bud. Strawber- ries are set only from new plants (that is, those which have not borne); gooseberries and currants prefera- bly from two-year stock, and raspberries and black- berries from stock not more than one season old. Dwarfs vs. standards.—Fruit-growers are always asking whether standard or dwarf trees are the better to plant, but the question is a personal one, and cannot be answered for another any more than the question can as to whether peaches are more desirable than plums. Dwarf apples and dwarf pears are of a different type of fruit-grow- ing from the standards, and the intending grower must weigh the evidence for and against as_ best he can. As a general thing, the standards are the 934" The Principles of Fruit-growing. safer and more reliable; but persons who are will- ing and competent to give the extra care which the dwarfs need, and who have access to extra good markets, may generally grow the dwarfs with profit.* The parentage of the stock may affect its value.— “It is probable that many trees fail to bear because propagated from unproductive trees. We know that no two trees in any orchard are alike, either in the amount of fruit which they bear or in their vigor and habit of growth. Some are uniformly productive, and some are uniformly unproductive. We know, too, that cions or buds tend to reproduce the char- acters of the tree from which they are taken. A gardener would never think of taking cuttings from a rose bush, or chrysanthemum, or a_ carnation, which does not bear flowers. Why should a fruit- grower take cions from a tree which he knows to be unprofitable ? “The indiscriminate cutting of cions is too clumsy and inexact a practice for these days, when we are trying to introduce scientific methods into our farming. I am convinced that some trees can- not be made to bear by any amount of treatment. They are not the bearing kind. It is not every mare which will breed or every hen which will lay a hatfull of eggs. In my own practice, I am_ buy- ing the best nursery-grown stock of apples (mostly *Further remarks upon dwarf trees may be found in Nursery-Book, 3d ed., and in Lodeman’s “Dwarf Apples,” Bull. 116, Cornell Exp. Sta. Raising Trees from Seeds. 235 Spy), and am top-grafting them with cions from trees which please me and which I know to have been productive during many years. Time will dis- eover if the effort is worth the while, but unless all analogies fail, the outcome must be to my profit.” * If one is to plant hardy stocks and then work them over, he should usually plan to graft or bud them after they have stood in the orchard one year. Good results sometimes follow grafting in the very year in which the stock is set, but this is the exception. Some persons have proposed to sow seeds in the very spot where the trees are to stand, and thereby to raise stocks for top-working without transplanting them, but the labor and un- certainty of the method make it impracticable. It is cheaper to grow trees in the nursery row—the same as it is cheaper to buy trees of a nursery- man than to attempt to grow them—and the trees also receive better care. Again, seedlings vary, and the poor and weak ones should be discarded the same as they are by the budder in the nursery row who finds them to be too small or too scrawny to bud. Well-grown stock of a_ strong- growing variety usually gives more uniform results than a lot of home-grown seedlings can. Buying the trees.—It is best, when it can be done, to order trees late in summer or early in the fall, if *L, H. Bailey, Bull. 102, Cornell Exp. Sta. See, also, “Survival of the Unlike,” pp. 249, 250. 236 The Principles of Fruit-growing. one expects to plant an orchard. Buy where the best trees can be obtained, and where there is good reason to expect reliable stock and honest dealing. It is generally advisable to buy at the nearest nursery at: which the desired stock can be secured, for the buyer has more personal knowledge of the nurseryman, he can visit the nursery, he saves freight, and he may be able to secure his stock in fresher condition; but trees of equal excellence will generally thrive equally well when transported from long distances, if they arrive at their destination in good condition. While one should endeavor to secure low prices, it should be remembered that nursery stock should never be pur- chased simply because it is cheap. Poor stock is dear as a gift. Yet farmers who annually plant a few trees, and who buy of agents, often pay exorbi- tant prices. In a certain town, when farmers were paying 28 cents apiece for peach trees in lots of a dozen, any reliable nursery would have been glad to have supplied the same varieties at $8 per hundred, at the nursery. Plums which should have sold for 15 cents to 20 cents apiece were selling to farmers for 50 and 60 cents apiece. The man who seriously ex- pects to plant an orchard for profit will not be led into any wild scheme or new varieties by agents. He will generally buy directly of the nearest nurseryman who can supply the desired stock and varieties at the prices which suit him. Some nurserymen employ reg- ular and reliable agents, and such agents carry a cer- tificate from the firm they represent. But while these salesmen may be perfectly straightforward, and may Substitution of Varieties. 237 be the best channels through whom small orders can be secured by those who are uninformed in pomo- logical matters, all persons who expect to go into fruit-growing seriously should buy directly of the nurseries. But it must always be remembered that the tree agent has been the means of clothing the country with fruit trees, and of thereby adding much to the contentment of farm life. The buyer should make up his mind just what varieties he wants, and then find the nursery which has them, and order early enough to get them. There is then no occasion to consider the vexed ques- tion of substitution of varieties. If the varieties are not in market, buy stocks of some strong- growing, staple variety, and after these are established—usually the spring or summer of the next year—bud or graft over the tops to the desired varieties. THE SETTING OF THE PLANTS. When to plant.—There is much difference of opinion as to the relative merits of fall and spring planting. The writer’s opinion is that fall planting is generally preferable to spring planting upon thor- oughly drained soils, particularly for the hardy tree fruits, like apples, pears and plums; and if the ground is in good condition and the stock well ma- tured, peaches can sometimes be set in October, even in the northern states, with success. The advantages of fall planting are several. The trees become estab- lished during the open weather of fall, and they usu- 238 The Principles of Fruit-growing. ally make a start in spring before the ground is hard enough to allow of spring planting. This early start not only means a better growth the first season, but, what is more important, trees which get a very early hold upon the soil endure the droughts of midsummer much better than trees planted in spring. Planting is nearly always better done in the settled weather and workable soil of fall than in the capricious days - and in the hurry of springtime; and the orchardist is free to begin cultivation at a time when he would otherwise be planting his trees. Again, it is generally better to buy trees in the fall, when the stock of varieties is full and when the best trees are yet unsold: these trees must be kept until planting time, and it is about as cheap and fully as safe to plant them directly in the field as to heel them in until spring. In fall planting, however, it is important to insist that the trees shall be thoroughly well matured. In order to move stock quickly, it is the practice of some nurserymen to “strip” the trees before the growth is completed; that is, the leaves are stripped off, the growth stopped, and the trees are put upon the market for September deliveries. This process weakens the trees, and many failures in young plan- tations are probably attributable to this cause. Such trees may die outright, especially if set in the fall and a hard winter follows; or they may live to make a dwindling growth for the first few years. Like early-weaned calves, they lack vitality and push. If one were setting an orchard in the fall, he should Buy in the Fail. 239 place his order for trees in August or September, if possible, with the express stipulation that the trees should stand in the nursery rows until the leaves begin to die and fall. In the meantime, the land should be fitted and the holes dug, so that when the trees arrive they can go directly into their places without delay or without the expense of heel- ing them in. Trees are mature enough to dig late in September or early in October in the northern states, depending upon the season, soil and variety. When the tree is fully mature, some of the leaves will still hold upon the vigorous shoots, and these are stripped off; but this stripping does no harm, for the young growth is then mature and it.has a thick, strong, brown appearance which is very dif- ferent from the slender, soft and green branches of early-stripped trees. It should be said that there seems to be a ten- deney amongst nurserymen to urge fall planting in order to push sales; and there are many good planters who consider fall planting hazardous, espe- cially in the north. It is true that unless the con- ditions- are right, spring planting is the safer course; and farmers who have many fall crops to harvest will also probably find more time for tree setting in the spring. Distance apart.—Fruit plants are oftener set too close together than too far apart; in fact, the latter error scarcely exists. Trees, especially, are wide feeders; and the best results are obtained when each tree stands far enough from its neighbors to 240 The Principles of Fruit-growing. allow it to possess an individuality all its own. An additional reason for sparse planting has lately become important,— the necessity of spraying for in- sect and fungous pests; and for this reason, as well as to allow of better cultivation, the outside rows should not be set close to fences. The distance at which trees may be set depends much upon the system of pruning. If heading-in is followed vigor- ously and systematically, trees may be sect a third nearer than if allowed to take their natural form. Heading-in should always be practiced with dwarf pears, and many of our best growers pursue it with peaches, plums and quinces. Thin planting is_ the safer rule for the majority of cases. The following table may be supposed to represent the outside aver- age limit for the planting of fruits in New York, when the plants are allowed to take their natural form: Apples, 40 ft. each way. — dwarf, 10 to 15 ft. Pears, standard, 20 to 25 ft. — dwarf, 12 ft. to 1 rod. Quinees, 1 rod. Peaches and Nectarines, 20 ft. Plums, 20 ft. Apricots, 20 ft. Cherries, sour, 20 ft. — sweet, 30 ft. Figs, 20 to 25 ft. Kaki, 20 to 25 ft. Pecans, 40 ft. Distance of Planting. 241 Oranges and Lemons, 25 to 30 ft. Grapes, 6x8 to 8x10 ft. Currants, 4x6 to 6x8 ft. Blackberries, 4x7 to 6x9 ft. Raspberries, 8x6 to 5x8 ft. Strawberries, 1x3 or 4 ft. [way. Cranberries, 1 or 2 ft. apart each These are safe distances. In certain cases, how- ever, where the soil is strong and the grower makes thorough work of cultivating, pruning and fertilizing, these distances can be reduced somewhat with profit, except, perkaps, in the case of apples. (See, also, remarks by Van Deman, page 273.) The quincunx system is one which places five plants in every square. Four plants are set upon the corners and an odd one in the center. The num- ber of plants required to set an aere is double the number required for ordinary planting, less a row on one side and one end. The mixing of species, or double planting.—These remarks upon the proper distances for trees call for some discussion of the common question as to whether it is good policy to plant shorter-lived trees, as peaches, between apples and pears. It all depends upon the man. In general, it should be discouraged; but if the orchardist gives the very best attention to fertilizing and cultivating, plantations can be mixed with good results. This mixing of species is a per- sonal question. Now and then a man succeeds ad- mirably with it, but the greater number fail to Q 242 The Principles of Fruit-growing. secure very good results with more than one type of effort upon the same piece of. land. Van Deman* writes the following upon this sub- ject: “For a number of years, the trees will neces- sarily have much more space than they really need, if planted the distance apart that they will require when grown to full bearing age. Not only will there be wide spaces between their tops, but much of the soil will be unoccupied by their roots. Therefore, some plan for using this space without in any way hindering the proper growth of the trees, is permis- sible, economical and desirable. Many plant peach trees among their apple trees to fill the ‘spaces until the apple trees get old enough to need all the room. I have done so myself, but do not like it now. The peach trees are of quicker growth, and rob the apple trees to a damaging degree, in many cases. Dwarf pears are occasionally sct in apple or standard pear orchards, but this is generally a mistake, because the trees often need very different culture, especially when the pear trees blight badly from too rapid growth. Moreover, if the dwarf pear trees are planted deep, they send out pear roots above the quince stocks, and become almost as long-lived as the other trees. The wiser plan is, usually, to plant apples, peaches, pears, cherries, plums, apricots, etc., by themselves, but to fill up the spaces until the permanent trees need the whole, plant varieties of *H. E, Van Deman, “Plans for Orchard Planting,” Rural New-Yorker, Mareh 6, 1897. Double Planting. 243 the same species that will come into bearing early. “Not only do different kinds of orchards fruits re- quire different distances between their trees, but the same species or the same variety often needs more or less space in different climates and soils. Despite all the manuring or cultivation we may give them, those planted in some localities will not attain the same size as they would had they been planted in others. For instance: the peach trees of Connecticut and northern Michigan are much smaller than those of Delaware and Missouri. No manner of treat- ment will cause them to grow to the same size, unless those in the more southern locality were cut back in summer time or starved, and thereby stunted. It is climate that does it—more warmth, more sun- light, and, in short, more congeniality. The apple trees of Michigan and New England are far larger than those of Texas and the tide-water sections of Virginia, because the apple delights in a climate both moist and cool. The gigantic cherry trees of the Shenandoah Valley far exceed in size those which grow in the richer lands of Illinois. “Where land is dear, economy of space is an important point; hence the plan that will put the most trees on a given area, provided they are not too thick, is the best. The more there are on an acre, the less it costs per tree to cultivate them.” Some of the small-fruits may be planted in or- chards with the very best results. Strawberries are practically an annual plant, and are much better for orchards than any kind of a sowed crop is. 244 The Principles of Fruit-growing. How to plant the stock.—Plow the land and fit it well. As all fruit grounds should be put into eulti- vated crops for the first two years, at least, it will ‘generally be found advisable to plow the entire area before the place is set, rather than to plow strips where the trees or plants are to go, for the land ean then be shaped better with reference to surface drainage and general convenience. Trees should be set neither in dead-furrows nor on back-furrows. Level culture should generally be adopted from the start, unless it is known to be necessary to displace surface water; and in that case it may be questioned if the land is fit for fruit plants. In all ordinary soils, holes must be dug by hand for the tree fruits. Plowing out a deep furrow in the line of the rows may lessen the dig- ging and aid in getting the trees in line. The hole should be dug broad and ample; and the harder the soil the larger ought the hole to be, for in that case the loose dirt which is filled in must give the tree its start. In loose and deep soils, the hole need be no larger than the spread of the roots. Chop up the soil in the bottom of the hole, or throw in a few shovelfuls of loose surface earth. Trees should be set an inch or two deeper than they stood in the nursery, for the loose earth will settle and wash away in the course of the season, even if it is well packed when the trees are set. Dwarf pears should be set from three to six inches below the bud. The roots are trimmed, as_ ex- plained further on. Every care must be exercised Setting the Plants. 245 to get the soil thoroughly firmed in about the roots—which are straightened out in approximately their natural position—and especially under the crown or fork of the roots, in order that no air-spaces may be left to dry out. This dirt can be best placed by fingering it in, moving the tree gently up and down at the same time. Once or twice in the pro- gress of filling the hole, the earth should be stamped down. Fill the hole to a little more than level full to carry off surface water, but be careful that. no hollows are left too close about the tree into which water can settle, especially when planting in the fall. Stamp or pound the earth very firmly about the tree before leaving it, for the double pur- pose of retaining moisture and of holding the tree against winds. Small stuff, like nursery stock and small-fruit plants, may often be well planted by means of a dibber or spud. All this operation of planting can proceed to perfection only when the earth is dry enough to crumble. Stock cannot be well planted in wet and sticky soil. If trees are set according to these directions, and the tops are cut back as explained farther on, there will rarely be any necessity for staking and tying the trees to keep them plumb. Mulches of straw or manure are sometimes ad- vised for newly set trees. For trees planted late in spring and upon droughty soils, a light mulch about the tree may be advised; but in other cases it is not. If mulches are applied to fall-planted trees, care must be taken to tramp them down well, or 246 The Principles of Fruit-growing. they may become a nesting-place for mice, which may girdle the trees when there are heavy snows. There are those who favor placing a forkful of ma- nure in the bottom of the hole, but this is a practice of doubtful value; and, at all events, the manure should be well mixed with the soil to pre- vent drying out. There is often discussion as to whether it is desirable to place the mulch on the surface or to place it an inch or two below the surface and cover it with soil. No dogmatic as- sertion can be made for either method, although, of the two, the former is probably more generally advisable. But it should be remembered that a mulch of tilled carth (as explained in Chapter III.) is more desirable than one of straw or manure in general fruit-planting. Puddling the roots is a good practice when trees ave to be shipped any distance or when they are likely to be unduly exposed, and it is a common practice amongst nurserymen. The operation con- sists in sousing the roots in a thin mud or paste of clay. Trimming the trees.*—There is much difference of opinion as to the best method of trimming trees when they are set. So far as the root is concerned, it is advisable, in the north, to eut away only those roots which are broken or badly torn. These should be cut off just back of the injury. It is the custom *Complete discussions of pruning and training, with a full analysis of the Stringfellow or stub-root method, may be found in “The Pruning-Book.” Trimming the Young Tree. 247 to cut off the ends of all roots of the size of a lead pencil or larger, for a clean, smooth wound is sup- posed to heal quicker than a ragged one. These euts are made from within outwards, so that the wound is more or less slanting across the roots, and so that it rests firmly upon the ground when the tree is set. When the tree is planted, all the roots should be straightened out to nearly or quite their normal posi- tion. If it is found that one or two roots run off to an inordinate length, they may be eut back to corre- spond somewhat with the main root system. Perhaps half the entire root system of the young tree is left in the ground when it is dug. It is there- fore evident that the top should be eut back to a cor- responding amount. In fact, the top should he more severely shortened-in than the root, because the root, in addition to being reduced, is also dislodged from the soil, with which it must establish a new union before it can resume the normal activities. Trees which are allowed to carry too much top when planted may fail to grow outright; or if they start, they are very likely to be overtaken by the droughts of summer. Even if they live, the growth is gen- erally small and uncertain, and the tree may fall a prey to borers or a victim to high winds. On the other hand, trees may be trimmed too severely when set. Except possibly in the case of peaches, it is probably unwise to trim the trees to a mere pole; and with peaches, it may be better to leave spurs with at least one bud than to trim to a whip. There should be a number of strong, bright buds left upon 248 The Principles of Fruit-growing. the top, for these are the points where early and active growth begins. These buds are upon strong branches. If they are removed, the weaker or half —* Fig. 23. Yearling peach tree. Fig. 24. Peach tree, pruned. dormant buds upon the main trunk or low down in the crotches, must take up the work, and these start slowly and often feebly. Trimming the Young Plant. 249 There are two general methods of trimming the tops of young trees at planting time. One method cuts back all the branches to spurs of from one to three buds; or sometimes, particularly with dwarf pears set when two years old, the side branches may be eut entirely away, leaving only the buds on the main stem or trunk. The tree, therefore, “ feathers out” the first season; that is, it makes many small shoots along the main trunk. The following fall or spring, the top is started at the desired height. Fig. 23 shows a peach tree as received from the nursery, and Fig. 24 the same tree, trimmed in this manner, ready for planting. This method is the one generally best adapted to the peach, which is always set when a year old; but for other fruits, unless the trees are slender and without good, branchy tops, it is doubtful if it is the best practice. If the bodies are thought not to be stiff enough, this man- ner of trimming may be used to good advantage. The main shoot should usually be headed back in this as in all styles of trimming, in order to make the trunk stocky. The second method aims to start the top at the required height when the tree is planted. It is adapted only to strong and well grown stocks which have a more or less branching and forking top. From three to five of the best branches are left, and these are headed back to a few buds each. Fig. 25 shows a pear tree, trimmed in Fig. 26, and the illustration may be considered to represent a good example of its class. Many of our best plant- 250 The Principles of Fruit-growing. ers prefer the spur system for all trees, and there are some who would trim all newly set trees to a Fig. 25. Three year old pear tree. Fig. 26. Pear tree pruned. straight whip; but there ig much to be said for this latter method. Fig. 27. Young Fig. 28. Second-class Fig. 29. Second-class plum stock apple tree, showing tree, showing well trimmed. leader at A. leader at A. Lo cr Lo 3 funy y s. = SS a) GN D wn Sy os S =. ™~ 1 i) pa $ $ s. > = ~~ bf It is, of course, evident that there Ss is no one method of pruning young \) trees which is all wrong, nor any other which is all right. The method must always be modified by the age and shape of the trees, by the climate (or part of the country) in which the plan- tation is set, by the species of plants, and especially by the ideal which the grower has set for himself. In general, it may be said that the younger the stock the more nearly to a whip it may be pruned. 2 Fig. 30. Grape plant, showing where it should be pruned. Trimming the Young Stock. - 253 It may be said in general, then, that peach trees and small or slender back and spurred (Figs. 23, 24); but that strong, well branched trees may have the head started at the desired height at the time of setting, all the branches being well headed back (Figs. 25 and 26). Fig. 27 shows a small plum tree cut to spurs, and the roots have also been properly dressed. Figs. 28 and 29 show second- class apple trees. In these the tops are not well formed, and it might be best to trim to a whip, allowing the branches A to be- come the leaders. Such whips may look very erooked and _ scrawny, but they will straighten as they grow. The lines in Fig. 30 show where trees should be well headed Fig 31. Pruning « newly-sel tree. a grape plant should be pruned. The top should be cut at @ and bd, the upper roots trimmed off at ec and d, and the main roots cut in from e to f. 254 The Principles of Fruit-growing. The trees may be trimmed before they are planted, although it is generally better to do it just after they are set, especially if the tree is trimmed after the method of Fig. 26, for one can then better esti- mate the proper height, the operation is easier done, and there is no further danger of breaking off the limbs by the handling of the tree. One foot is planted firmly at the base of the tree, and then with one hand the branch to be removed is bent upwards and with the other the knife is appled to the under side and the cut is made neatly and easily (Fig. 31, page 253). Never eut downwards on a limb, for a ragged wound nearly always follows. In fall-set trees it is generally inadvisable to prune them before spring (unless the tops are so heavy and the bodies so weak that they are likely to be injured by wind), because the eut surfaces are likely to dry out. The roots of the tree are not yet sufficiently established in the soil to supply the added evaporation which takes place from the wounds. If it seems to be desirable to trim the trees when they are set, they should be eut back only part way. They may be eut again, to fresh wood, in the spring. THE LAYING-OUT OF THE FRUIT PLANTATION. It is difficult to make the rows straight in large areas, especially on rolling ground. Persons who have had areas regularly surveyed with chain and compass, and a stake set for every tree, may have Making the Rows Straight. 255 found the orchards to be as crooked as others set with much less care. The surveyor sets his stakes by sighting across the field from certain fixed points; but it is difficult for the planter, when the stake is removed and the hole dug, to stand the tree in the exact place of the stake. It is better to regard the trees as stakes and to set them by sighting. The area can be “run out” on two or three of the sides, a conspicuous stake being set at the location of each tree on these outside rows. If the field is large or rolling, it may be necessary to set one or two lines of stakes across the center of the field also. For areas of a few acres, a garden- line stretched across the field will be found to be a great help and to save much time. This line is moved at either end to the adjoining row, as soon as one row is set alongside it. Persons sometimes tie conspicuous strings on the line at the given intervals between the trees, expecting to set a tree at every knot, but with the stretching of the line, and other sources of error, it is nearly impossible to get the cross rows straight in this manner, and the trees must be kept in line by sighting. Upon comparatively level fields, especially if the land is in good tilth, the plantation may be laid out with a corn-marker. If the planter keeps his back to the row of trees and sights ahead to the marked line or furrow, he will get his rows straighter than he will if he sights by the trees. Two men are better than one when setting plants, for one usually attends to the sighting whilst the other 256 The Principles of Fruit-growing. puts in the plants. There are various devices for locating the position of the original stake, after the hole has been dug. One of the best consists sim- ply of a thin board three or four inches wide and six or seven feet long, with a notch at its center, and a stationary leg or pin at one end (a). ‘The other end (b) is provided with a hole to receive the top of another stake or pin. The notch is set against the stake, the legs at each end of the board being thrust into the ground at the same time. The end (b) is now raised off the pin or leg, and the board is swung around out of the range of the hole. When the hole is dug, the end (b) is swung back and dropped upon the pin, and the tree is set in the notch.* The methods of laying out orchards have been discussed in detail recently by H. BE. Van Deman, formerly pomologist of the United States Depart- ment of Agriculture, and copious quotations are made from these writings.t “To lay out with the plow.—Before doing any- thing, one must decide which style or arrangement of the trees is to be followed and the distance apart to plant them. This having been decided, the first thing to be done is to establish a base line, which should be along a fence, road or some other perma- nent border of the tract to be planted. Prepare *The reader will find this implement and another one illustrated on page 56 of “Garden-Making.” tH. E. Van Deman, “Laying Out Orchards,” Green's Fruit Grower, April, 1897. : Making the Rows Straight. 207 enough small split stakes, that may be easily seen, to put at each end of every tree row; that is, enough to go entirely around the tract. Then, set a stake firmly at a spot which shall be the first established corner of the outside limits of the orchard. It must, however, be set at a spot which shall also be the end of another line running exactly at right angles to the ase line. In the west, where the farms are nearly all laid out in perfect squares or rectangles, the fields are apt to be rec- tangular. In the absence of a surveyor’s transit, a carpenter’s square may be used to establish the lines, by sighting along its edges when laid on the tops of three stakes at the corner. Set a stake at the farther end of each of these lines. From this first corner stake measure along the base line fifteen feet, or as far as it is thought best to have the width of the margin between the trees and the fence, and there set a stake. Next, measure along the base line from this second stake the distance that the trees will be apart, and set a_ stake. Measure along the entire length of the base line, setting a stake at every 1674, 20, 25, 33 feet, or whatever distance may have been decided upon. This line of stakes being only the ends of the transverse rows and not the places for trees, they need not be set absolutely in a straight line, but should be nearly so. Then, go back to the original corner stake and measure fifteen feet at right angles to the base line and set a stake, which determines the width of the border next the base line. Now, R 258 The Principles of Fruit-growing. measure and set stakes along this other side of the orchard site, up to the stake at the farther end. The two remaining sides should be measured and staked in* the same way. “Provide several tall stakes with a white rag tied at the top of each, to use as sight poles at each end. If one can run a straight line with a plow without intermediate sight poles, that is, with only one at each end, these will be enough; but I have found that it pays to have an extra line of stakes set a few rods from each end, and a guide pole to be set at each in turn, as the laying-out pro- gresses. “We are now ready for the plow. Some like one horse, but two make the plow run steadier, and it is easier for the plowman to sight between two horses than over the head of one. My plan is, to first mark out crosswise to the way I intend to plant, and to make but a single shallow furrow. This being done, we are ready to make the fur- rows in which to plant. If these run up and down the slope they will act as a drain to the trees, in some measure. By plowing two rounds and finishing with a dead-furrow or trench on the line, and then subsoiling in the bottom of it, there will be very little work for the spade in preparing to set the trees. It is by no means difficult to set them in the checks, with a little sighting, so straight that no one would know but that they were set by a line. After setting the trees, hitch one horse to a plow with a very short singletree covered Making the Rows Straight. , 259 with rags at the ends to prevent injuring the trees, and fill up the trench at two rounds. Then plow the space between the rows. One thing must be very carefully figured out the very first thing, if the hex- agonal style is used (which I prefer and use), and that is, the distances between the rows at right angles, and not diagonally from tree to tree, and then accurately measured and staked on the outer lines. The great Wellhouse orchards, in Kansas, were laid out with the plow. J. H. Hale substituted a 60-cent per day darkey and a mule for a six-dollar surveyor and transit, in laying out his rows for planting his 600-acre peach orchard in Georgia. “Laying out with a line.—For small orchards of an acre or two, I have often practiced a method of laying out in the hexagonal style, which is very quickly and easily done. As many stakes are pro- vided as there are trees to be set. sojquresaesy 10N 6 6 6 hourry oo ee ae ae oe ew wpe we we Jw wv Fa Pa em aaa Fig. 88. Picker’s tag. Fig. 89. Picker’s tag. pound (since a quart weighs 174 pounds), but the price can be dropped to 1 cent a pound in some varieties and in good picking. In the picking of fruits, it is always essential that each picker finish the particular job to which he is assigned. This is especially important in the small- fruits, for the picker must follow a certain row, and Picking cranberries at Cape Cod. Fig. 90. Picking and Packing. 401 not be wandering over the plantation in search of the best picking. Fig. 90 shows the method of “lining off” eranberry pickers. Necessity of hand-picking.—It would seem to be unnecessary to say that all) fruits which are to be put into a good market should be hand-picked, and yet it is a fact that a great quantity of the apples, and even of the pears and plums, which go into our common markets are shaken from the trees. It is impractieable to grade or sort such fruits, beeause the proportion of jammed or bruised fruits is so great that the samples of first qualty are found to be very few. It is an axiom in fruit- marketing that only the best fruit pays for careful packing, and that the poor fruit is rarely worth the trouble of grading. The better the fruit, therefore, and the more carefully if is picked, the more profit- able may be the attention which is given to sort- ing and packing. THE PACKING OF FRUIT. What is first-class fruit?—The very first thing to be considered in the packing of fruit is to deter- mine what first-class’ fruit is. Even amongst those persons who sell apples for the export trade, there is very little exact practice in the sorting of the apples. It seems to be ordinarily considered that any fruit which is sound enough to reach its desti- nation is good enough to be ealled first-class ; but such standard is a serious error. The fruit AA “ymaf Oy} Jo GdIId MOT EY} Jo YonUT 1oF WosBor oy} sysessns yf puew tstoutey T}TAd quenbery st Woy Surpeas jo ods} OY} [Tes ALIVF Spuaserdat emnjid sig ‘Sal, -puey ssoperes Aq Poult sum Yq ‘ozs zadoid Jo pus oat} OY} IFoT 4 8B qoazrod SVM FYSLI OULa11x9 OY} 4B temoeds eq ‘sdeay yf Auudutoa ey} FO esuvoeq popreasIp eLojoroy} S] Pue ‘suauitoeds Jey}O OY} Gis Ajmuosun epeis 0} [[ewas 00} ST Ff 4nq ‘qoop1ed ouoe st e[dde qsoudo} ey, “Su1}0s yOJe1vd UL SSBld-PAly} se oped pluvar Wey} JO OULOS PUB ‘SSU[V-PUODS EAOdL OLB suaupoeds OY} JO OUON “[ILAL « SSB[d-SAY,, [BlLodoULULOD B WLOAF usye} sojddy “16 “51d What is First-class Fruit? 403 should not only reach its destination in approxi- mately the same condition in which it leaves the orchard, but it should also be attractive and uni- form in quality, and capable of being held for some _time when it reaches the wholesaler. Mere sound- ness or perfectness of form and freedom from all bruises and blemishes do not constitute a first-class apple. 240, 273 Pears, dwarf, age for planting... — — depth to set............. — — good stock. —-—picking.... % Se SEALS OF c5s5.5.sicts aeandemasis 137 — hand-picking..................005 401 — how to pick... — injured by cold. = 1180" 4. sac 172 SRO ODING iiss cncmraacnm wana anistnarnte dna 444 > PACING ss s)sccmcicesevedeagarawee'ye oy 407 =" PIOSCIVINE news ge corneercanena se 459 — pruning Kieffer .................. 293 — rain on blossoms 334 — species of ...... 2 — sterile and fertile 229 FSW ONO (Di Clk. japspars debs cvnsereydechegaendve Se 380 — with peaches..................05. 241 =" WIADDIN Bis ae ge ayeneneiacs sxe anions 413 Peas, analysis of...............0..0- 201 — in orehards.. Pecan....... Pecans, distance for - POAAIEES 43 vs citron Gre gescicieaisie ak on Pegging down trees................- Penicillium glaucum................ Pennsylvania, frost................. — fruit trees in.............. Pepper tree for wind-breaks . Peres isis sicicisieiasaiatsts ia creisiarsrer Pericary . 2sccscsesa nescssianesiecs agi Perkins, C. H., on storage.......... POvs68s cavetereninsaa tenis Persimmons, species of .. Peru, smudging in....... : Pests and fruit-growing .......-.--- Petit, A., preservative ............-. Petroleum for frosts..... Pettit, W. W., house of .. Phenology ........-..+++- Philadelphus, growth of ..........-. Phin, quoted Phosphoric acid, amount of ........ —pelipe PR. scsws swxeutveakanwes 510 PAGE PHY ANCHUB sic cisseccugicars ve ssied onterseigans 5 Phylloxera, flooding for... -107 Physiological diseases ...... 849 Pickers, keeping records with. 898 Picking, how to do............ B84 SS WON LO WO incciae adage sacmmndionnioine 378 PineapplOwisspecoswcvacacsaes caesar — soils for Pineapples, covering..............- 106 Pines for wind-breaks. 89, 91 PiStaCiOss ssoseasen 0) Pistil, killing of......... -316 Place for fruit-growing ............. 37 Plains region Bl anRG isi dsiscetonaisaidig ce hanes Plans for orchards Plantainssisic ican Plant, how to.. Planting ws .csi0:2 a Plants; CHOGSINBG os 5.s.ccteelerdedates saris 230 Platanus, growth of...............65 167 PHYO Tr6sts: sccaesxs oe anceene 114 Plow, handy Plowing vs. moisture . Plow, laying-out by... Plum buds, killing .. — culture, status of................- OD PEACH sesensaves sae Plums, age for planting. -— distance for ......... é == NanGspieki Ng’ «2: -e0isesswries overs ea he NOW LODICK nis:2 s eirrereamaritray aeons ee SAmpotentiincadcorerscraimiss deel == KOPIN seiewcsdatcseaicdies wee nae s8 — species of .... — when to pick.......... F Plum tree, injured by cold. Index. PAGE Pomaceous fruits..........6.eee sees 2 Pomegranate. . 5 ="ZONCs250/s 302 8 POMEIG pivgeaa'sa casesiarcnsige cre tea 3 Pomology, definition of............. 1 POndSADDIGy: aaxnagecaris eas eeere 4 POMS accayaae hae idee eases 472 Poplars for wind-breaks.. . . 88, 89 Populus, growth of. -167, 168 Potash, amount of............2..005 204 = fOr EvItS: .: seaie dears os see see 214 Potato and the bug .........-.-..065 347 = bestlieeisss a eanesevaa yar hse 347, 369 Potato DUG. .3-ccncmeasees teeta 25 Powell, G. T., quoted .409 Prediction of frost . 121 Preserving fruits ... .258 Presses for barrels ..............055 433 Price of stock .... Prickly pear cisco. ceisensciceaesaantecn Productiveness of orchards......... Propagation and productiveness. Prophylaxis ......... Prune, distance for . Prunes, keeping . s Pruning and peodaelnedses sate asic’ — young trees Prunus, growth of......... —= SPOCies: Of is ca von ceesaens Psidium ...... Psychrometer. Puddling ... Pyrus, growth of .... — species Of wciesiceiscreneaes Quantities of seed for cover crops.. .202 Quercus, growth of ...... Quince-culture, status of. Pe Quinces, age for planting........... 233 — and cedar-apples ..............5-5 78 SS istanCer fOr. oo ocenssccaeodae sei 240 Sheep Piniassexs accanetersian nase 444 = Tow lands £00 s is. siicccsnsccs te nternie 59 Index. 511 PAGE PAGE Quinees, mulching.................. 93 | Rosin, for freezes.............00005 121 —“CPOCles Ofiixeswsaa ve sesaemena ceaxy 2 Rotation........ . 220 Quineunx system........... ... 241, 265 | — and pests - . 847 Quinn, quoted..................000 0s 74 | Rows, making atraisht:: Sg lsaigoatbienatsis 254 RAD DIES) wiisisiniss soresicinaareal aonds 283, 294 | Rubaceous fruits .............-. 00 6 Rain, effect upon blossoms . .--233 | Rubus, species of . 6 Raisins, keeping.......... -444 | Rudisill, quoted ..