Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924002825762 Cornell University Libra TE Ebvvard, Q While: How to Grow Cut Flowers. A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE CULTIVATION OF THE ROSE, CARNATION, CHRYSANTHEMUM, VIOLET, AND OTHER WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS. ALSO GREENHOUSE CONSTRUCTION. ILLUSTRATED, A BOOK FOR THE FLORIST AND AMATEUR. BY MM. 2. BUST. PUBLISHED BY THE AUTIIOR, 1893. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the vear 1893, by ° M. A. HUNT, In the Oflice of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington Press oF MoorE & LANGEN, TERRE HAUTE, LIBRARY Department of Floriculture and Ornamental Horticulture New YORK STATE COLLEGE of AGRICULTURE at CORNELL UNIVERSITY ITHACA, N.Y. PREFACE CHAPTER.—I. Greenhouse Construction . . ll. Ventilation—How Constructed. . . HI. The Short Span tothe South . . IV. Greenhouse Heating . V. Hot Water Heating VI. The Down-Hill System . VII. Hot Water under Pressure VIII. Heating by Steam. IX. Overhead Heating. z X. Roses—Their Cultivation . . XI. Soil : XII. Stock for Planting XIII. The Renewal of Rose Plants . XIV. Roses in Summer XV. Depth of Soil for Planting XVI. Planting XVII. Staking and Tying. XVIII. Mulching. . XIX. Watering. AX: Ventilation | sits x XXII. Temperature of Water 8 is XNIJ. Shading XXIII. The Cutting of Buds . NNIV. Grading and Packiog XXV. The Preservation of Flowers. . XXVI. Insect Enemies . XXVII. Insect Exterminators . . XXVIII. Diseases ofthe Rose ..... XXIX. Forcing Varieties—Cultural Notes .. XXX. The Forcing of Hybrids. . . XXXI._ Florists’ Green. . XXXII. The Carnation . XXXII. Diseases of the Carnation... XXXIV. Chrysanthemums. . . . XXXV. Violets . XXXVI. Mignonette a ee XXXVII. The Forcing of Bulbs. : Binet XXXVIJI. Orchids. . iis XXXIX. CONTENTS. Miscellaneous Topics. . PAGE . i-iii. 1-17 18-22 23-28 29-30 31-34 33-36 37-38 39-43 44 45-46 47-49 50 56 57-58 59-61 62-63 63-65 66-71 72-73 74-76 78-80 81-83 84-85 86-89 90 91-93 94-107 - 108-118 « 119-126 . 127-140 « 141-17 - . 148-152 - 153-167 . . 168-180 - 181-187 - 188-194 - 195-197 + 198-205 - 206-208 - 209-228 * ILLUSTRATIONS, Anthracnose of Carnation Benching Black Spot Bacterial Disease of Carnation Club Root . a Down-Hill System of laying Water-pipes . End of Sash Bar—How Made Evaporating Pan - Form of Gutter where Houses Join Forcing House for Lily of the Valley Gauge for setting Bars - z Gutter for Outside Wall How to Join Gutters . e Header used at foot of Ventilator . How to fill in between the foot of the Bars . Method of Laying Hot Water Pipes . Movable Wire Frame for Staking New Method of Building - Pot Racks . Ridge—how joined Red Spider e Rose Bug and Larva Rust on Carnation leaf - Roof—how supported . . oS Ridge—how supported “ide Ventilation . . bse >pot on Carnations . The First American Greenhouse. . Three-Fourths Span House ag The Short Span to the South - Thrip .. Vaporizing Tank and Pipes Violet House . Violet Root Galls . — Wire Support for Carnations... . . . Zine Joint . 2S ae 1Au Ape . Frontispiece. 10 24-25 # -iM-l2 190 193 15Y 17 INDEN. PAGE Adiantums, to grow... ... 2. ae ae . 150 American Beanty, cuttings tat, : 54 Treatment of Saya e ahd, r @s a« 4436 Ammonia, to use os ee 8 . « - 168, 217, 205 -\sparagus Plumosa : chee. HER y-acgie - 152 Black spot, remedy for . e ahs 3 Pus -.127 Bone Meal, value of ‘ : ik Pees ee - 216 Boilers, care of... .. ‘ . 224 Bulbs, how forced. - igs owe - 198 Calla Lilly, to grow - ‘ 205 Carnations, average night temperature elie Ge . 161 Cut worms on . ps ‘ > Wii Se ie Sete Fao 166 Cuttings, when made. . 4 eae ee RTS Early planting ose ¢ 7 De 157 Fungoid diseasesof .... . ,e ee we og ee 16 TTR Remedies for.... .... . . - 2 RTA, TTT Fertilizersfor. . eee : - 163, 164 Grading the flowers Sao aS Sy ein a TS - 168 Improvements in iets - s . » 153 Insects injurious to . 6 Rites 2 2% - - 165, 166 Rust on ‘ ae - 169 To prevent sa -171 Soil for ‘ 3 - a . + 163 Supporting, how per rornied, * 159, 160 Vitality lost . tae . - 1d When to house . 158 When to syringe - ‘ . 185 Chrysanthemums, black apis to kil i. o . 187 “Crops to succeed them . 182 Cuttings, when made - IN2, JS4 Distance to plant ox 1S4 Grown in Sprays - 182 To single flowers - 183 Grown in pots . 189 New disease of 186 Soil for i - 183 Varieties for cut flowers - 186 iv Cement, use of . C. Mermet, temperature for e Cleanliness . . Club root, to pr event. Coal tar, its use . Crade oil . Cuttings, wood for Cut worms Disbudding carnations . Chrysanthemums . Roses Distillery manure, value of . Eel worms, to prevent Fertilizers . Florists’ Green . Freezias. . Fungus in cutting bed, cure for Fumigating .. . Green Fly, to Kill . Greenhouse Construction Benches, how made . Butted glass Gutters, how to join INDEX. How to attach roof to gutter e fe Houses for summer growing . rae Length of ahouse . Lumber, kind touse . New Style of house. . Outside wall, to cover nlm Rie Painting . Parlin, what made of. a c ate Ridge, how made . Roof, to raise . Size of glass . Solid bench, new method. .. . Support of ridges . Short span to the south o wae Ventilation Greenhouse Heating . . Boiler, kind to use Fuel to use Heating by steam . . 200 - 2105, 214 . . 219 - - 221 -- ol INDEX. Greenhouse Heating.— Hot water heating ..... Under pressure. . Pipes to lay. . Overhead heating . The down hill system . The best system of heating Steam boiler, to set. Pipes, size of Number of . 7 To lay. . Harrisii, how forced . ‘ How to Scald a House Horn Shavings . Hops, use of How to Repair a Brick Fire Box. Hot Water, to heat with . Insect Exterminators 6 &% Lily of the Valley, house for . . Forcing of Lilium Candidum ede eedaly Sect Liquid Manure . we ea & Leaking Pipes, to stop a Madam Hoste, treatment. . aos Meteor, temperature for .... Mortar for Fire Brick, to make . Miscellaneous topics... ... Mildew, how to prevent... ... Mignonette, butterfly to kill... .. Disease, remedy for ... House, how constructed . Seed, selection of. When sown. Temperature for . . Narcissus ..... “ Nitrate of Soda. . Se ‘ Niphetos, hadded on ejay ete Orchids . . e Hs Best varieties to ero 7 Overhead Heating ... . : Papa Gontier, treatment of . Pot Racks. ...... ae Preparation of Soil . nS Roses ‘ eae 4g Roses. INDEX. American Beauty. .. .-.. A cellar for . Black Spoton. .. . Buds, Grading and Packing How to cut How to preserve Catharine Mermet Club Root . To prevent Cultural Noteson. . Depth of soil to plant in Diseases of Forcing varieties of . Hybrids, forcing of . Impaired vitality . - La France, culture of - Madam Cusin Madam Hoste. . Madam P. Guillott Madam Watteville Meteor a i Mealy Bug, to kill - Mildew, to prevent . Mulching of. . . Movable frame for New varieties - Niphetos Papa Gontier . Perle des Jardins . Planting, when and how . Propagating from blind wood Resting of . Renewal of . Red Spider Solid beds for . Shading of . oa Souv de Wootton Staking and tying. Summer growing of Varieties for Thrip . The Bride. . e ac The Leaf Roller Roses.— PAGE The Rose Bug . a ee ee . - 96,97 Two-eyed cuttings... ... Bate} SeOecIse ) # i) GREENHOUSE CONSTRUCTION. 7 will make them water-tight at the joints, if they have been well leaded betore putting together, and it does not matter whether the joints come directly over a post or not, as the iron tenons will prevent all warp- ing. See Fig. 2. To form a gutter in this way, where houses do not join each other, take two by six-inch plank, size them, and after having painted the edges to be joined with good thick paint, bolt them on the nVrrnnnnnwwvvwer* Fig. 4. lower edge with four-inch lag screws. See Fig. 3. These pieces can be butted together and the joint secured as described in Fig. 2. The other form where houses join, is to give the top of 8 How to Grow Cur Fiowers. the posts a square cut, after which place on them plank as described for the other, on either edge of which bolt two by four pieces that have been dressed on either side and run through a sticker to form the top bevel. See Fig. 4. Throughout the northern states I think as good lumber as can be used in this construction is white pine, and it need not be first clear, as small knots are no detriment, and the sides can be selected from first- class 2x4, being careful that there is no sap on any of them. After the posts are sawed, begin at one end with the first piece of gutter. Spike this to the end post and brace it well, after which bring on each suc- ceeding piece, driving each joint together as you pro- ceed, and when all are in place, straighten them toa line, and fasten securely by spiking to the posts. For the first covering of the wall, use ship lap or common flooring. Place this with the smooth side in, and with the joint so that no water can find lodgment in it from the interior of the house; cover with heavy building paper (use none that has tar on it) and fasten the same by nailing lath up and down over each post. When finished, this will give a hollow space in the wall half an inch in thickness, which is as good pro- tection against frost as would be a wider space. Foran outside covering drop siding is preferable, as it not only makes a good finish, but being tongued and grooved, excludes all air. Use two by eight for the ridge, and when ordering, have a groove three-eighths of an GREENHOUSE CONSTRUCTION. 9 inch deep and of equal width made for the reception of the glass, letting the same be at such a distance from the lower edge, that when the bars are in place, the under surface of both the bars and the ridge will _ t ' Fig. 5. be fair. See Fig.5. This permits the ridge to rise five inches above the bars, which will be found of great ad- vantage when ventilators open at the top. With the walls complete, it saves labor to construct the benches before putting on the roof, as they can usually be utilized as staging for the superstructure. In the construction of benches there are many kinds of material used. Wood or gas pipe for uprights, slate or tile for the floor. The method adopted will de- pend mainly upon the amount of money one has to put into their construction. If wood is used for up- rights, it is not advisable to use anything but the best cedar, but if this is not at hand, locust, chestnut, white oak or cypress according to their availability. Fig. 6 shows the usual mode of bench construction in three fourths span houses. This method of building has long been deemed necessary in northern latitudes. 10 How to Grow Curt FLowEss. 7 Fig. 6. A noted grower near New York has recently bu: a few houses upon a plan differing materially fro that of any others. The frame is iron, built in tl usual way—three-fourths span. The north and sou walls, as well as the ends, are also constructed of gla to within two feet of the ground, and with side ven lation in both walls. The house is twenty feet width, with two benches, the sides of which are ty feet deep. A path runs all around the house betwe the walls and benches. There is also a path betwe thebeds. The main peculiarity consistsin the constrv tion of the beds. The first sixteen inches is made broken stone, through the center of which three or inch steam pipes pass at such distances from each otk GREENHOUSE CONSTRUCTION, 11 as to best equalize the distribution of heat. This foun- dation is then covered with eight inches of soil in which the roses are planted. The following claim is made for this method. Heat being applied to the broken stone by means of the pipes passing through it, renders it possible to use water freely during Novem- ber and December, and this overcomes, in a measure, the difficulty experienced in inciting a rapid growth during those months by the usual methods. The writer would only add that in February it was his pleasure to examine these houses, and the growth of foliage would seem to substantiate the claim made. An A \ ——— ai Fig. 7. Another method of bench construction, as shown in Fig. 7, is preferred by some, as it gives more head room to tall, strong growing varieties. 12 How to Grow Cut FLOWERS. Gas pipe in bench construction, though expensive at first, is durable. So also is that made of rejected street car rails, and when such can be obtained at the cost of old iron they are not very expensive. Angle iron has also been used by some, but one grower who built with it tells me he thinks its life not long enough to repay the outlay, as it rusts and scales rapidly. Whatever the method adopted, let no part of the weight of the bench be borne by the walls. This is of great importance. The side benches can be fastened to the walls as a means of bracing, but shores should le provided to carry the benches, otherwise the weight will soon throw the gutter out of astraight line. For the bottoming of benches, nothing in my estimation, is better than the most lasting kinds of wood. For pot growing, either slate or tile may be the most economical in the end, but for cut flowers, tile slabs dry so quickly as to make their use hazardous in un- skilled hands. GREENHOUSE CONSTRUCTION. 13 For a purlin, inch pipe is neat and strong. See Fiv. &. Let it be supported by uprights every eight feet, and sec that they rest on a solid base, a stone or small brick pier. Before glazing, the purlin should be fastened to each bar by means of screws and a narrow band of sheet iron or tin. The ridge should be supported by inch and a quarter pipe. Iron plates are kept in stock Fig. 9. by builders which can be fastened to the ridge aad the pipe secured to them by a thread. In the absence of these, substitutes may be easily made of hard wood as shown in Fig. 9. A hole of suitable size is bored in 14 How to Grow Cur FLoweErs. the wood to receive the thread of the pipe, and - wood is then fastened by means of screws to the rid These iron supports to the ridge should not be o seven feet apart, and it is well to construct the ridge 14 foot lengths, asin this way one of the supports < beplaced directly under each joint. Asa large port: of the weight of a roof is carried by these uprights, ' foot of each should rest on a solid foundation, otk wise they will settle, and the building spread. grooved bars are used to convey the condensation, that the grooves are smooth before painting, else tl will be a constant source of annoyance, through fill and overflowing. Bars 2}x13 inches area good size the long roof, for the short one 2x1% inches are hez enough. To frame them, place in a mitre box and | both ends before moving the bar, so that all shall be a uniform length, cutting the foot square and the’ to the bevel of the roof. Notch the under side of: foot 1# inches in length by a depth that shall leave: rs Lo Fig. 10. timber between shoulders 1$ inches. See Fig. 10. Ai all are framed, before joining them, stand the lo ends in tubs of boiled linseed oil, three inches de and when dry give the whole roof two coats of the t white lead and pure linseed oil. GREENHOUSE CONSTRUCTION. 15 To erect the roof commence at one end of the build- ing, raise one length of the ridge, putting bars on either side at each end, fasten those at the end of the building permanently, the others temporarily, so that should your ridge not be straight, it can be lowered or raised as you proceed to place the bars in position. When using a continuous ventilator let one-third of the bars run to the roof—and these should be put up first—in doing which use a gauge sufficiently long to allow for three rows of glass with their short bars between. As soon as one section of ridge is complete, plumb it by drawing a line from plate to plate at the base of the first set of bars, dropping a plumb line from the top of the same bar and vary until the lines touch. Brace se- curely and proceed to erect in the same manner the rest of the roof. After setting thelong bars have some head- = } Fig. 11. ers prepared (Fig. 11), of suitable length and thickness to fill in between them, for the support of the shorter bars on the same side, and if the upper surface of this header is as wide as can be made from two inch stock it will serve to hinge the ventilators on if they are to open at the top. With a short gauge (See Fig. 12), set your shorter bars. Fill in between these, where 16 How to Grow Cut FLowErx. Fig. 12. they rest on the plate, with pieces prepared for the purpose, cutting them to their place one by one, for as there will be a slight variation in the distance between the bars these pieces cannot all be cut to a length before- hand. See Fig. 18. Dip the freshly cut ends in paint QB Pig. 13. and fasten in place. Then run a gauge from the inner surface of these that will mark one-fourth of an inch from the edge and two inches from each bar, drive heavy one inch wire nails for the end of the first glass to rest against, and after the purlin is in place and fastened, you are ready to glaze. GREENHOUSE CoNSTRUCTION, ne; Double thick glass, 16x20, is too heavy to lap in the usual way and keep in place. Neither is butted glass desirable on account of the great amount of leakage, but this:can be obviated by using a zine joint, an } invention of Mr. J. M. { Gasser, of Cleveland,Ohio. See Fig. 14. I have used these for several seasons, as I have been repairing, Fig. 14. and like them very much. Where the glass is not lapped, as is the case when these joints are used, the putty can be applied to the bars with a machine, saving the work of two men, and again, after the glass is set, the corners can be drawn on the outside by the same process, filling any space there may be at the edge of the glass, thus making a perfectly tight roof. As fast. as the glass is laid it should be fastened with glazier’s points, No. 00, as its weight will otherwise cause it to. . buckle and slide. I once heard a careless workman say, “paint and putty are great rectifiers,” and while open joints are to be deprecated, should they occur through accident or otherwise, see that they are carefully filled, and that all nails about the gutters are well set and the holes puttied before giving the final coat of paint. Every season as the houses are replanted, the gutters, both inside and out, as well as the foot of the bars where they join the 18 How to Grow Cut FLoweErs. gutter, should be given a coat of paint. All the roof work should be given a thorough cleaning and painting once in two years, and some consider it economy to paint thoroughly every year, because every particle of light that can be obtained during the winter months is desirable, and both cleaning and painting add so largely to this result, that one or both should be adopted. CITAPTER Ll. . VENTILATION, HOW CONSTRUCTED. First, I would have it continuous on the south roof, and from 20 to 86 inches wide. Never ventilate on the north side unless hinged at the tap, otherwise, when open, the sun will be admitted in such a way as to burn the plants on the north bench. An error of. this kind will necessitate the protection of the bench by shading with some thin material like cheese cloth under the ventilator, and as far as the opening extends, as the writer has found from experience. These con- tinuous ventilators can be made of various lengths, according to the size of glass used. It is usual to hinge them at the bottom, and if the upper edges are doweled, all will move alike when raised, and the open- ing will be uniform throughout the entire length of the house. For raising and lowering this there is but one VENTILATION. 19 way, and that by some of the various machines con- structed for the purpose. In addition to this, I would have at least eight ven- tilators on the north side of a house 125 feet long, if con- tinuous ventilation is not used on this side. These can be made in the form of sash, and of varying sizes, according to the size of glass used. Hinge these at the ridge and they will be found exceedingly conven- ient in airing when the wind is blowing from the south, also for maintaining a low summer temperature. As these ventilators will rest on the top of the bars, they can be made wind-tight by fastening a continuous piece of quarter round on their under surface, in such a manner that when shut, the round will be inside the opening, thus covering any crack or opening made by the warping or springing of the ventilator. It not be- ing necessary to use these small ventilators as often as the main ones, it is optional with the builder as to the best way of raising or lowering them. If it is not deemed desirable to run two lines of shafting, they can be opened and closed in the old way, by means of an iron lift, in which holes have been made at varying distances. But whatever the method, I would not be without them, as they are needed from July to Novem- ber. Still another and a better way—if it can be af- forded—is to bave continuous ventilators on each side, making each ventilator of a suitable width to receive one light twenty inches long. Hang these at the ridge 20 How ro Grow Cut FLoweErs. for rose houses, and you will always have asystem that will be the best possible preventive of mildew, so far as ventilating is concerned, while both openings can be used to advantage through the heated term. This of course necessitates two lines of shafting and a double apparatus for lifting the two lines of ventilators. For carnations I would advise continuous ventilators three feet in width, the south one to open at the ridge, the north one to be hung to the ridge. These, with wall ventilation on either side will give a fine circulation of air. Fig. 15. For summer work in houses adapted to the growth of cut flowers, I consider wall ventilation indispensa- ble, and for this reason would never join houses used VENTILATION. 21 for this purpose, but place them far enough apart so that the ridge of one will not shade the south bench of | the one north of it during the short days of winter. On level ground they should be from 15 to 18 feet apart, according to their height, butif on a slope the distance can be lessened in proportion to its declivity. Each house should be connected at one end with a work room, and if several houses are built it is very conven- ient to have this room in the centre, but its roof should be low in order that it may produce the least amount of shade. While building the walls, if such ventilation cannot be provided as in Fig. 16, putin at least every 12 feet, a frame 12 inches wide in the clear, and of a length that will fill the space between two posts. See Fig. 15. This frame should be of sufficient depth to admit of a temporary filling on the inside for winter use, while the door for the outside may be constructed of tlfe same material as the rest of the wall, and hinged so that when shut it shall be fair with its face. These side ventila- tors should be placed in both the north and south walls, and directly against the line of pipes, but under rather than over them. In this way, they can be used at times of the year when the air as it enters the house will be tempered by passing over the pipes. This is of course on the supposition that the pipes are filled with water that has not had time to cool. One grower has recently built a house, in the north wall of which he has placed at intervals of 20 feet, reg- 22 How to Grow Cut FLowERs. ular doors. These are 6x24 feet, and instead of being placed up and down in the wall are horizontal, and as high as can be opened and swing under the eaves. These are for the double purpose of ventilation, and for convenience in emptying and filling the benches. Where houses are needed exclusively for the sum- mer growing of cut flowers a roof of equal span and from 11 to 12 feet in width is preferable. These can be built in the same way as already described, only that I would make all the rafters the full length of the roof, and have the ventilation continuous on both sides, hanging each line at the ridge. I do not like a western exposure for any house, and think the sun takes stronger effect on such a house from 1 to 5 P.M. in summer, than it does from 10 to 2 o’clock on a south- ern face. The best varieties to plant for the purpose of sunfmer flowering and their treatment will be de- scribed hereafter. ‘THE SHoRT SPAN TO THE SOUTH. 23 CHAPTER III. THE SHORT SPAN TO THE SOUTH. Fig. 16 gives a good idea of the latest style of build- ing. This is from a photograph of two houses built last fall by the well known carnation grower, Mr. Fred Dor- ner, of La Fayette, Ind. If lack of ground space renders it necessary to build continuously, this plan will give less shade than when reversed, but if necessary to build together, it would be far better not to join more than two houses as seen in the illustration. This wilkadmit of wall ventilation on each side of the two. This innovation upon existing and tried methods has been viewed with great incredulity by the profession at large, and I must confess that I have also been skeptic- al as to its practicability. It is unquestioned, however, that mere prejudice should not deter us from surround- ing ourselves with whatever will contribute to the high- est success, and this has led me to investigate the new system by visiting some who have adopted it. I am told on good authority—though I have not visited the place—that the gentleman with whom the idea origin- ated, and who had such phenomenal success the first season, has since changed growers, and that this success passed out of the same door and at the same time, as did the man under wh »se watchful eye it was obtained. However this may be, there are some features in this mode of construction which commend themselves while THE SHort Span TO Tire SoutTH. 25 there are others which awaken distrust; nor will the objection produced by these features be removed from the mind without further investigation and trial. The claim for this method of building is, that the short span and the sun are at right angles during the shortest days, and that this position admits the greatest amount of sunlight and warmth, while the more either the sun or glass vary from a right angle, just in that proportion are the sun’s rays deflected and the heat less- ened. The feeling of the sun upon the face and person as it comes through the sharp roof, is both marked and pleasant, as compared with that of a roof at the com- mon angle, and so far as appearances go, would seem to prove the theory correct. The roof being so steep, snow cannot remain upon it, and it is quickly free from frost onasunny day, though the air is keen outside. Added to this is the fact that owing to the sharpness of the roof the strain on the bars lessens as they approach the perpendicular, rendering it possible to use less wood and more glass, thus securing the maximum amount of light. ; On the other hand, if the weather is severe the north roof is a sheet of snow and frost, and this is removed only as the heat from the interior melts it, no rays of ‘the sun touching its exterior surface during the en- tireday. This state of things of course causes the plants to turn toward the light, but how much it has a tend- ency to draw them in long continued cold weather, the writer is unable to say. 26 How tro Grow Cur Flowers. My visit to Mr. Dorner was during the severe weather of January, and at that time I suggested to him a trial of temperature between this and a three-fourths span house, on some day when artificial heat could be dis- pensed with. Under date of January 30th he gives me the following result: ‘‘On the basis of the temperature being the same in both houses fifteen minutes after steam was shut off, the house having the short span to the south at the end of an hour had gained six de- grees on the other, the test being made by keeping the thermometer in the shade.” \, x Fig. 17. At another place visited by the writer where this method is being used, a portion of the benefit sought was lost through faulty construction, the gutters being so high as to cast a shade of six feet at3 P.M. This together with the result of observations elsewhere, leads THE Suort SPAN TO THE SOUTH. Oe me to the conclusion that were I to build a house for myself as an experiment, it would be as shown by an end view in Fig. 17. Nothing should join it on either side, and if for carnations, it should have wall ventila- tion on each side, and continuous on both the north and south roof, the south ventilator being hinged at the bottom, the north at the top. For roses, the same in every respect save that both continuous ventilators would be hinged at the ridge. Mr. Dorner feels that he obtains more light during the short days under the new system than with the old, and about the only criticism I could find when there, aside from the frost on the long roof, was that the south gutter cast a shade during the latter part of the day on benches built low enough to be handy, This could be obviated by lowering the south gutter as far as it can be and leave room for a foot of ventilation he- tween it and the ground. With all the facts it has been possible to obtain up to the present time, for my own use I would not feel justified in changing the old style for the new until the latter has been more thoroughly tested. Still another plan is advocated by some, which does away with the objection found in the system last men- tioned, so far,as snow and frost are concerned. I know of but one grower who has adopted this style of build- ing, but there may be others. This gentleman thinks he finds in it the advantages claimed for the former 28 How to Grow Cut FLoweErs. method, with none of its disadvantages. Fig. 18 gives an end view of this house. Dimensions, 16 feet inside measurement between posts. Height to under side of ridge, 14feet. Walls 2 feet 6 inches. 11 ) 3 6 Fig. 18 If the side benches are used for planting, they should be built as near the ground as possible and have a space of two or three inches between the ground and the bot- tom of the bench. Two pipes are hung on each wall, and the radiation from them is prevented from reaching the plants by ceiling the back of each side bench about 1& inches. This will also prevent air from the side vent- ilators from coming in direct contact with the plants. If large glass is used, each roof should be supported by GREENHOUSE HEATING. 29 purlins of one-inch gas pipe, and braces of the same material can be made to support them by connecting them with the iron supports of the roof, which should be of two-inch pipe. Seven pipes for heating are used in this house, one of which is in the roof, three feet below the ridge through which the flow is carried, re- turning in six pipes of the same size, as seen in Fig. 18. Instead of facing directly south, if built to face s. s. east, it is claimed that both the morning and afternoon sun will have the greatest effect, or rather, will be more equally divided. I should hesitate to build in this way, unless the two side benches could be used for small pot plants. In this case, if these were built two feet wide and near the glass, it would permit of an eight foot bench in the middle of the house which would no doubt do splendid work, CHAPTER IV. GREENHOUSE HEATING. The problem connected with this much agitated question, has been solved to the entire satisfaction of the advocates of the different systems time and time again, and still, one who would commence anew is as much in the dark as ever, as to which is the best for him to adopt. Climate, fuel and space enter largely into the decision of the question in each individual 30 How to Grow Crt FLoweErs. case. There is no question but that the ideal method is by steam generated by natural gas, both for its clean- liness as well as the ease with which it is cared for when once in working order. To only a few highly favored individuals has this great boon been given, while the rest of us must see much of the profits roll into the furnace in the form of “ trust” anthracite, or if we seek a cheaper article and fall back upon bituminous coal, we are not only sufferers ourselves, but our neighbors, if we have any, proclaim us a nuisance. But notwith- standing dust, dirt, and ribald tongue, we must each burn what is the most economical, for the profits are not large, as many suppose them to be, and our product must enter the markets in competition with that of men of wealth to whom it matters little whether their investment pays expenses or not, so long as they per- sonally have what they wish to use, and can sell enough to help out on the salary of the gardener. The question of fuel must largely control the kind of boiler we adopt. If natural gas, then a marine will be found to be a great heat producer. If anthracite, such as have proved to be the most economical in the sections where that coal is used. If bituminous, such boilers must be selected as will produce the best com- bustion and thus aid the fireman in his efforts to keep the smoke at a minimum. The original method of heating, now nearly obsolete, was by means of brick flues, and while the more common Hot Water Hearne. 31 plants can be grown in this manner, for fine work this method is useless, and unworthy the space necessary to describe it. CHAPTER V. : HOT WATER HEATING. e Hot water is used in three forms. The first and original method of laying pipes, consisted in having the flow rise gradually from the boiler to the extreme end of the house, a rise of one foot in one hundred be- ing deemed sufficient. At this point an expansion or standpipe was usually placed, and from it the water returned to the boiler in another set of pipes, having the same fall as the flow had elevation. The pipe used in this system is four-inch cast iron in lengths of about five feet, and a quick and durable way to put this together is as follows: Buy a coil of eight strand, inch and a quarter hemp rope. Cut this in lengths that will allow a strand to go twice around the pipe. Put this once around the joint and tamp it lightly. Between this and the next layer of hemp, put about the same quantity of Portland cement ax you have of rope. The cement should be of the consistency of good putty. Tamp in another strand of hemp. This, when well tamped, will fill the joint 32 How to Grow Cut FLoweErs. within about half an inch of the top. After putting together several joints in this way, finish with cemen’ in the same way as you would if you were using rec lead, and you will have a much cheaper joint, and on that will be as durable as any, providing care is taker to use nothing but the best Portland cement It will be ebvious to any builder, that the rests shoulc be in position and the pipe all laid before the benche: are erected. The number of pipes necessary will depenc of course on the location. Seven is none too many and eight for all localities north of the fortieth parallel rT U UU i U iw Ai. _— Cd Fig. 19. the house being eighteen or twenty feet in width. The first cost is a little more, but it insures fully agains! great falls in temperature to which all sections are liable, and while five pipes will do the work in ordinary weather, there are a few days in nearly every seasor Hot Water HeEatine. 33 when they will all be needed, and the saving effected by not having the plants given a check, will oftentimes in one season compensate for the extra expense. To lay these pipes, carry one flow nearly to the ex- treme end of your north bench (See Fig. 19), and re- turn it in two pipes laid directly south of it. Puta valve on this flow at some convenient point near where it enters the house, and these three pipes can be used at will. Carry another flow under the south side of the same bench to within one foot of the extreme end, put on an ell and carry across the end of the house, bring- the water back under the south bench in four pipes, and when these approach the boiler they may be united in one and returned to it in that form. In this way you have your heat on the outside of your house for the entire distance, leaving the space under the middle bench clear and free. I have noticed that if the circulation is carried up and down a house without crossing the end farthest from the boiler, sev- eral feet of that end will be cooler than any other part. of the house, causing dampness to be driven there, and a consequent condensation of moisture on the fohage during the night, which will soon cause the. leaves to fall. The inlets to a boiler should always be greater than the outlet, and it is customary to use them in the pro- portion of a four-inch outlet or flow to two inlets or re- turns of the same size. If the boiler is of suitable ca- 84 How to Grow Cur FLowers. pacity to carry several houses, it will facilitate the cir lation to have the outlet six inches, and carried b pipe of the same size as a header, from which all four-inch flows may be taken. Should it seem advisable to adopt this, as it is tern “the up hill system,” it will be necessary to obse four things: First. That your boiler is set low enough, so that point from which the water flows out of it shall be least twelve inches lower than where the flow p commences to return to the boiler. Second. That at the highest point of the flow th be a vent for the escape of air. This may be provi for by a regulation stand pipe. A simple way is tap the casting at that point and screw into it a1 inch gas pipe, letting its end be a few inches hig than your expansion tank, or by asimple pet a which can be opened and closed at will. Third. That neither the flow nor return be alloy to make short dips or depressions from the settling the rests, as by this means the circulation is sometir impeded, but that the pipes be so graded that the : and fall will be as nearly uniform as possible. Fourth. That what is called an “expansion tar be placed at some convenient point near the boi This may vary in size from one-fourth to a full bar according to the amount of pipe it is expected to sei a barrel being as large as will be needed for any o: Hor Water HEatING. Ys) nary sized boiler. Connect this barrel by means of an inch pipe with your return just before it enters the boiler, and all waste of water in the circulation can be supplied from this point. Should the flow at its highest point not be supplied with a stand pipe, it is best to tap the flow as it leaves the boiler, inserting an inch pipe and carrying it over and just into the top of the expansion tank. This will not only allow air to escape, but should the fires be crowded so that steam is generated, it can escape at this point and what is termed “kicking” pipes will be avoided. As to the height of this tank, the bottom of it should always be higher than the highest part of any of the pipes. CHAPTER VI. THE DOWN HILL SYSTEM. The second system of hot water heating is what is called the “down hill system,” and differs from the one just described in that the water is raised to the highest point at once, and from that point gradually falls until it reaches the boiler again. This gives an opportunity for overhead heating, which for some crops is beneficial, while to others it is detrimental. To lay these pipes, commence with the flow, raising it perpendicularly from the boiler, to such a height as will permit you to carry the main from which your 36 How to Grow Cur FLowERs. flows are taken, over your doorways. © From your highest upright point, let the pipes fall gradually all the way round. If you use a barrel for expansion, let. the bottom of it be a little above the top of the flow. Connect it with the return as described already, tapping oe ae ia i... [Ler eee" s Fig. 20. the highest point on the flow pipe and carrying thence an inch pipe over and into the top of the barrel. See Fig. 20. It is also well to have one or more pet cocks at other points, in order to facilitate the exit of air when filling the pipes. Hot Water UNDER PRESSURE. 37 Two things can be said in favor of this system. It permits of setting the boiler on the surface of the ground. It can be used in the growth of such crops as are benefited by overhead heat. L CHAPTER VIL. HOT WATER UNDER PRESSURE. The third system is that of hot water under pressure, and requires that both pipe and boiler be of wrought iron, if the pressure is over twenty pounds.’ Two inch gas pipes are commonly used for this and they may be laid as already described, on the “down hill” plan; but for this no expansion tank is required. This system is practicable only when it can be con- nected with water pressure, either public or private, and should not be less than ten pounds as indicated by a steam gauge. If you have city water works, carry an inch pipe from the coldest part of your boiler—which is usually the rear and near the bottom—connecting the same at some convenient point with the hydrant. This will consti- tute your expansion tank, and the amount of pressure you can carry on your boiler without emptying it, will be a fraction less than a gauge will indicate as being the pressure of the hydrant water. If a higher degree of pressure is maintained on. the 38 How to Grow Cut FLoweErs. boiler than the water works give, the result will be empty your boiler and pipes into the hydrant. Wh a valve is essential on the pipe connecting the hydra with the boiler, it must always be left open when the boi isin use. Do not commit the error of a brother flor who was also searching for “purchased wit,” and | cause the fire was moving the water towards and ir the hydrant, shut the valve!—the result of his expe ment being, that the next time he looked at his boi the pressure was above danger point, and had not ve been given at once and the fire raked out, boiler, hou: and all would have traveled skywards. : To insure a free circulation, connect a stand pi with the flow at its highest point near the boil This should be of the same size as the pipe with whi it is connected, and from three to five feet long. Ch the top securely, tap and screw into its highest po! an automatic air cock, in order that all air may be « pelled as fast as it gathers. Marvelous figures were given, a few years since, the saving in pipe by this method over the other ty but experience does not substantiate them. I he found seven two-inch pipes none too many to maints a temperature of 65 degrees in a house twelve feet wi: and for one eighteen feet wide, sixteen are used. T- is more than twice the amount of pipe needed wh the circulating medium is steam. HEATING BY STEAM, aS CHAPTER VIII. HEATING BY STEAM. The fourth and last system is that of steam. To give all the various methods advocated for steam heating would of itself require a larger volume than this. For this reason only a few general principles can be given, leaving the builder to apply them to any particular system he may choose to adopt. First, the boiler should have a power of at least 50 per cent. in excess of what will be demanded of it in all ordinary weather, and more is better. What is true of this, is true of all heat generators. Time and coal are largely economized by having a capacity for heat far in excess of the need. For instance, if you are sat- isfied a boiler costing $300 will do your work with close attention, add $200 more to it and let your fire burn naturally, thus reducing much coal to ashes that other- wise would go out of the stoke hole in the form of coke and charred coal. These rules apply in the main te boilers in which a cheap grade of bituminous coal is used. Having had less experience in burning anthracite I cannot speak intelligently of its requirements. It is not uncommon for a boiler, especially if old or second hand, to fail at a time when needed most, and it is mistaken economy to ever set any but those newly made, and in which the best of material has been used. Even in this case, some prefer to insure themselves against loss by setting two, each of them being of suffi- 40 How to Grow Cut FLowers. cient capacity to do the work required, but so con- nected that a change can be made at short notice in case a flue should collapse, or for any other reason one should become disabled. Many years ago, an accident of this kind occurred with the writer, and had it not been that it was during a “January thaw” when the thermometer did not fall below 60 at any time during the six days required for repairs, it would have been a serious matter and resulted in great loss. At the time alluded to, the work was being done by one thirty horse power locomotive boiler. One morning a crack was found in the crown sheet, from which water enough soon escaped to render firing impossible. Examination developed the fact that between the bars which held it in position, a deposit of scale and mud had formed, suf- ficient to prevent water from reaching the sheet and counteracting the heat of the fire. This fact is cited to show that whatever our heating system, boilers should be carefully examined every season before commencing a winter’s work. The second thing to be observed is the setting of your boiler. A perfect circulation of steam should be obtained with a pressure of two pounds or less, and it is desirable to return the condensation directly to the boiler without the intervention of traps or pumps of any kind. To do this, it is necessary to have the boiler lower than the return pipes. If you are building on descending ground, have your boiler pit at the lowest HEATING BY STEAM. : 41 point. If on level ground, let your pit be deep enough so the top of the boiler will be two or three feet lower than are your returns at any point where they leave your houses and are connected with a main ready to be dropped perpendicularly or otherwise, and be con- nected with the boiler at its lowest point. This will give a fall of from six to ten feet according to the size and kind of boiler you use, and is essential to a perfect circulation. Third, see that your main pipe from which all the lesser mains are fed, is of sufficient size. A boiler of sufficient capacity to feed 10,000 feet of 14 inch pipe should have a six-inch distributing main 15 feet long, when it may be reduced to 4 inches, and this should extend as far as the combined width of your houses, whether you feed them all from one end, or whether the distribution is made each way from a central house. The size of the connecting: mains will depend upon the length and size of the house. Two inches is sufficient to feed six two-inch returns, or nine one and one-quarter inch. If radiation is not wanted from this pipe it, as well as the six-inch, should be well protected by some of the best forms of covering. The main which feeds the house should be carried to its extreme end and from that point distributed into as many returns as are necessary to keep the temperature at the degree desired. For a house eighteen feet wide one two- inch flow and six two-inch returns, or one two-inch 42 _ How to Grow Cur FLowers. flow and nine one and one-quarter inch returns will maintain a temperature of 60° when the outside tem- perature is twenty below zero. From the point where the main feed leaves the four or six inch pipe, all the pipes should have a fall until connected again with the boiler, and the point where they emerge from the house on their return should be supplied with air cocks. These should all be closed as soon as circulation is fully established. As the returns emerge from the houses connect them with a three- inch pipe, but place this last named pipe below the water line of the boiler before the returns are connected with it. It can then be joined to the base of the boiler. Although not absolutely necessary, it is probably bet- ter to carry the main feed of a house down the centre, and from twelve to fifteen inches below the ridge. As before mentioned, if radiation from this pipe is not de- sired, it can very easily be retained by asbestos or other covering. A careful observance of ali these points is necessary to a perfect circulation. The valves and checks necessary to the control of the circulating me- dium are well known to all steam fitters and need not be enumerated here. I am sometimes asked the question which of ali these systems I like the best, and which I would advise a beginner to adopt. This last question cannot be answered definitely, for reasons already stated, and as to the first, I can only give my own experience. HEATING By STEAM. 43 For ten years and more prior to the general introduc- tion of steam for greenhouse heating I was conversant with its use, but in a more imperfect form in some respects than as used at the present time. In the growth of cut flowers for the past ten years, hot water in its various forms has been used by me exclusively. Iam unable to say, however, by actual test, which of the two systems will produce the best results, as I have had no opportunity to try them in comparison and under equal circumstances. The consensus of opinion undoubtedly favors the use of steam on large places, and while it may be best to equip a new and large range of houses in this way, I have not as yet seen it to be to my interest to change a system that works satisfactorily, as that change must necessarily mean a large sacrifice of material in the process of reconstruction. On the other hand, if your place is small, you will doubtless find the old system of hot water to require less care and trouble in the production of good results. 44 How to Grow Cut FLowers. CHAPTER IX. OVERHEAD HEATING. For growing roses, I am satisfied that ‘overhead heating” is a positive injury, unless the pipes are at such a distance from the plants that the radiation will not foster spider. The distance not being less than that of the main feed pipe near the ridge previously described. But that it is beneficial to some crops has been demonstrated in my own experience. In the growth of carnations, I consider a portion of the heat thus applied of positive benefit, as it helps to dry the foliage at a season of the year when artificial means are necessary. For the growth of small roses in pots, this method is also of great value, and were I piping my houses anew, I should provide an extra pipe over every bench used for this purpose, arranging it so as to be under perfect control, to be used or not, as seemed necessary. A knowledge of the benefit derived from this meth- od came to me by accident. In the winter of ’91, being crowded for room, I removed the contents of a north bench which had been occupied by “‘ Wabans” (more experience) and filled it with young pot plants. that had been potted about three weeks, and which up to date had been given what is considered the best room ina house, a south bench near the glass. The bench to which they were removed was fully three feet from the glass, and partially shaded by a rank growth of Roses. 45 roses on a middle bench south of it. Directly under .the gutter was a four-inch hot water main running the entire length of the house, and notwithstanding it was in January when sun heat is scarce, the radiation from this main evaporated all dampness and moisture from the plants, rendering it possible to syringe often, and to produce under these seemingly unfavorable circum- stances, a health and vigor of growth seldom seen at that season of the year, even under the best possible conditions. CHAPTER X. ROSES. THEIR CULTIVATION, DISEASES, ETC. No other plant is to-day so largely grown for cut flowers as the rose. Nor is there another upon which so much time and thought has been expended in its development, or in its perfection. The short season during which roses are sold at a profit renders it im- perative that he who would make the most of that period, must avail himself of every facility which will contribute to success. To this end essays have from time to time been called for from the most successful growers. Discussions calculated to bring to the surface thoughts born of experience have been called out, and while in this way many valuable facts and suggestions 46 How to Grow Cut FLowers. have been brought to our attention, still each growei has had to act largely upon his own judgment, and draw conclusions in the main from his own experi- ence. I well remember the eager anticipation with which ] listened to the first essay on this subject, as well as the unsatisfied hunger and disappointment with which 1] turned away at its close, simply because I did not find in it the solution of the one question above all others which was then troubling me. In the light of subse. . quent events I can see that it was ali clear to the mind of the essayist, and that he could not have known the conditions which constituted a failure with me, while with him, seemingly, similar conditions were a success. As this line of thought tends directly to the use of soils, and as my belief increases with each passing year, that on them, and on their adaptability to the needs of the different varieties of roses we grow, depends, in nc small degree, our success, it seems to me wise to com- mence with what may be truly considered the foun- dation stones of our superstructure. Son. ; AT CHAPTER XI. SOIL. The impression at one time prevailed to a consider- able extent that a chemical analysis would reveal what was lacking to make a perfect soil, and that this ingredi- ent could be supplied artificially. Unfortunately, ex- periments in this line only went to prove that Dame Nature resented any such interference with her secret laboratory, so that observation and experiment seem to be the only means at our command with which to prove their adaptability for producing certain desired results. For ten years past, no one rose has been cultivated so extensively, as Perle des Jardins, and still in some localities it cannot be grown with any degree of suc- cess. In fact it has been discarded by some prominent growers for that reason. Where I am located, the soil is a rich loam with a slight mixture of sand, and has a sandy clay subsoil, but not of sufficient strength for the manufacture of either brick or pottery ware. It is a soil perfectly adapted to the growth of Perle, and in which a crop has never failed to give the best results. When Catherine Mermet and American Beauty ap- peared and were given a trial,. disappointment was the only result. Both made a magnificent growth, but the Beauties rarely formed a bud, while those that matured on Mermet were so inferior in size and color as to be 48 How to Grow Cut FLowErs. practically worthless. It was at this stage that 1 found myself so hungry for the essay already alluded to. Visits to eastern growers made about this time, re- vealed the fact that some of them were unable to grow Perle, while other varieties which failed with me, grew there to perfection. A careful examination and comparison of soils showed theirs to be much firmer and heavier than mine, with a stiff subsoil, through which there was no apparent mixture of sand. This convinced me that herein lay the secret of my failure and their success, but how to supply the needed soil was a knotty prob- lem. One summer day a short time previous to this, while visiting a brother florist, my attention was called to a magnificent growth of roses, as well as to the peculiar character of the soil in which they were planted. In- quiry elicited the fact, that being out of sod soil, the thought had occurred to him to try a gravelly paste which was found ten feet below the surface. He had discovered this in a bank he was excavating close by in order to make room for another house. No fertilizing © material was added, and still the luxuriance of foliage was astonishing. So impressed was I with these re- sults that I took a sample of the soil home with me, and called the attention of my foreman to its peculiar char- acter. Not long after, he brought me one day a soil of similar texture found on our own premises, and upon. SoIL. 49 land hitherto considered worthless. This vein is from one to two feet thick and about six feet below the sur- face, and consists of both coarse and fine gravel, thor- oughly mixed and held together by a sticky, paste-like substance. reason unknown to us, the cross Fig. 32. is much more subject to it than is the parent hybrid. It is rarely seen in a true tea: rose unless it has been subjected to contagious influences, while many of the hybrids cannot be grown in the open air on account of its ravages. Of the many hybrid teas which have appeared within the last ten years and have been given a trial, none re- 126 How to Grow Cut FLowers. main in general use save La France, and both this and American Beauty need careful handling in order to keep the disease at bay. It will have been noticed by those who grow hybrids in the open air, that usually they show comparatively little tendency to take on the disease until late summer or early autumn, then with the heavy dews, cool nights and scorching sun at midday it develops rapidly, oft- times stripping the plants of foliage in afew days. The same conditions, though in less severe form, will have the same effect on both La France and Beauty under glass. I have seen a house of the former ruined in three days, by an over watered bench being exposed for a short time to asudden change of temperature, though the thermometer did not fall below fifty. This teaches us that the conditions producing this result must be avoided. Another means of prevention is perfect clean- liness. Leaves showing the disease should be removed and burned as fast as they appear, thus preventing the spores from maturing and spreading. Having been careful to observe the preventives mentioned, I have not had a serious case of spot for some years, conse- quently have had no occasion to prove the remedies others have advocated, but enumerate them here for the benefit of any who desire to give them a trial. Jean Sisley recommends spraying the foliage with a solution of salt water, in the proportion of six pounds of salt to twenty-four gallons of water. CULTURAL NorEs. 127 My. Halliday finds the remedy he gives for mildew, as round on page 123, beneficial for this also, while both Mr. Wheeler and Mr. Fisher recommend their com- pound for this form of fungus. In relation to its cure Prof. Halstead says: “This trouble may be held in check by the carbonate of cop- per compound, using three ounces of carbonate of cop- per, one quart of ammonia and fifty gallons of water. The spraying should be done once a week, using a hose and nozzle that gives a fine spray. The point should be to wet every part of the plant and yet not to drench it.” After giving the whole matter careful study, I have come to the conclusion that wherever it is met with in an advanced stage, it is more the fault of the grower than the plant—that is, the laws governing a healthy plant growth have not been observed, thus inviting this disease to fasten upon an impaired vitality, no matter which of the various causes producing that state of things has been the medium through which the disease has been invited. CHAPTER XNIX. FORCING VARIETIES—CULTURAL NOTES. The number of forcing varieties suitable for contin- uous winter flowering, is exceedingly limited. Many varieties which are simply grand under glass in sum- 128 How ro Grow Cut FLoweErs. mer, are utterly worthless for winter work, and the re- verse is also true of some of our best winter bloomers. Perle des Jardins undoubtedly stands at the head of the list as an all the year around rose, and still, if not proper- ly treated, or if the weather is for a long time unfavor- able during the winter months, its buds will be more or less imperfect. The conditions being favorable, and particularly the nights being cool, the most perfect specimens are produced in the month of October, and again in March on plants that were set late, and have bloomed lightly previous to that date, and this will occur without any specially prepared soil. To insure paying results during November, December and Jan- uary, while the days are shortest and often sunless, is a conundrum that has confronted many agrower. Tam satisfied so-called “ bullheads” may be attributed large- ly to four causes: Too heavy soil, excessive feed, a low temperature, absence of sun heat. All these influences have a direct bearing, and singly or combined, each plays a part in producing unsatis- factory results. It can be accepted as a fixed rule, that all varieties which do well in summer heat, need a higher tempera- ture in winter than the average standard. Applying this to Perle, we find it does not require as high a degree of heat in summer to bring it to perfection, as do Mad. Margottin, Etoile de Lyon and others that might he mentioned. From this we reason that the degree of CuLruraL Notes. 125 temperature given it should be above the average, but still under the maximum. Repeated trials have con- vineed me that in my soil the night temperature best suited to Perle during the three dark months, is 62°, and prefer 63° to 60° or 61°. Allusion has previously peen made to a trial of this rose in a heavy soil, and the unfavorable result that followed. If your soil is very heavy and you have not the means of lightening it, the temperature will need to be some higher, 68° to 65°. A light loam is undoubtedly the best, and if that is not at hand, reduce the texture of your soil by the addition of one-fourth clean sand. Let the compost used be old and well decomposed. Mix all thoroughly by turning several times before bringing into the house, I would not advise the use of bone meal for this variety except in a very small quantity, until January, being careful during December not to mulch or feed heavily. From the time the buds are wanted until October, the quality of the buds will be greatly enhanced by disbud- ding all-laterals, but after this date this should not be practiced, as throwing all the sap to the centre bud tends to malform it. On the contrary, from this time until spring, the buds should be watched as they form, and if the centre one on the strong shoots shows any tendency to curve or cling its petals, it should be re- moved at once, thus giving the strength of the plant to the development of laterals, which will usually form fine buds. With the turn of the season and strong 130 How to Grow Cut FLoweErs. sunlight, liberal treatment may be used with safety and disbudding resumed. As this is really the only yellow rose that can be relied upon for winter work at present, a vacancy occurs and a want is felt if it is not in good form. A careful observance of the foregoing suggestions, to- gether with an intelligent application of general cul- tural treatment, and I do not think any grower will have cause to complain that this rose does not pay him. Meteor is one of the roses requiring a high summer temperature to develop it perfectly, and possesses some characteristics which render it almost indispensable. It is the only rose of its color available during the win- ter months. Its habit of throwing single terminal buds instead of clusters is in its favor, while the length of stem and foliage that can be given with each bud ma- terially increases its value for retailing. It revels in a temperature of sixty-eight to seventy and will need more heat by day than others. Still, air must be given, and in sufficient quantity to keep the house pure and sweet. It is very sensitive to sudden changes and takes on mildew easily, hence careful watch is necessary. During the short days, should any of the canes throw buds in cluster form, remove the center one as soon as itforms. Spider, also, quickly gains a foothold with this variety, not that it isa favorite, and toothsome above all others, but on account of the higher temperature, coup- led with the tendency the larger leaves have to cup CuLtuRAL NOoTEs. - 131 slightly, making it necessary to be careful about syring- ing, and to see that all under surfaces are reached. It is arose that cannot be spared, and should be found in every collection where enough are grown to be able to give it a house by itself, or in connection with another requiring the same amount of heat, and even where this cannot be done, those growing for their own retail trade, will find it to add greatly to their assortment if given a warm corner in one of their houses. Catherine Mermet, all things considered, has been, up to the present time, the leading favorite in pink. Its habit of bleaching in dark weather is against it, but when in perfect form and color, nothing of this shade. in the opinion of many, approaches it in beauty. Unlike the preceding rose, this requires a tempera- ture below the average, and is practically worthless six months in the year, because it cannot be grown cool enough. For this reason diligence should be exercised to have it in good producing form by the last of Octo- ber, and this necessitates early planting, as well as constant care. >It is not reasonable to expect a large cut of buds during the winter, unless there is a corres- pondingly large and strong plant from which to grow them. Spring work and sales often reach into the sum- mer months, retarding both shifting and planting. The loss resulting, is noticeable in this variety more than in some others, owing to the limited time during which the buds mature perfectly; hence it is of the utmost 132 How to Grow Crt FLoweErs. importance they should be planted early, in order that they may have a large amount of bud producing wood by the last week in October. As previously stated, the soil best adapted to the growth of Mermet is a stiff loam with little if any admix- ture of sand. They are strong feeders, and will repay. anything administered to them intelligently. Whena new growth is forming, and just before the buds set, the tendency to go blind can be controlled to a certain ex- tent, by applying a little less water to the roots for a few days, but syringe the foliage as usual. Neither should stimulants of any kind be given in this stage—either apply when the breaks are commencing, or else after the buds are set. Quality is always produced at the expense of quantity, and if large, perfect buds are desired, the night temperature should not be above fifty-five, and if it occasionally falls to fifty or fifty- two, no harm will result, providing the plants are hardy and if sufficient air is given to keep the day tempera- ture well in hand. This rose is more liable to mildew than some of the other teas, and requires constant watchfulness. I have seen the entire crop for the two best paying months in the year, utterly ruined by one day’s carelessness. Some one has said, “Success in this business depends upon constant watchfulness every moment, every hour, twenty-four hours each day and three hundred and six- ty-five days in the year,” and if true of any variety, it is doubly so of this. CULTURAL NOTES. 133 For a fancy white, nothing as yet equals the Bride— Victoria being of too recent introduction to have been able to prove her claim to first place. As the Bride is asport from Mermet, partaking of all the characteristics of that plant, save in color, conditions suitable to the development of the latter are applicable to this also. We have another useful white in Niphetos, and this is the most prolific rose in cultivation, as well as the purest white. It is not a strong grower, and if used on its own roots should be planted on a south bench near the glass. Purchasers sometimes find fault because this is not as large as stronger growing varieties bought at the same price. This cannot be expected unless the plants have had one or two more months in which to grow than their more vigorous companions. For this reason this is another variety requiring time in which tomake flowering wood, and should be made from strong cuttings, as early in the year as the wood is in prime condition. If they attain good size in the bench, it will not pay to flower them the second season. If planted late and they have not grown too large, they may, per- haps, do good work the second year, if one cannot ob- tain new and better stock. The only way promising success, if they are to be carried over, is to withhold water from them in May until the wood is ripened, prune them back, take up, shake out all the soil, and pot in as small pots as will well contain the roots. Set in a shaded place outside, and as soon as they have 134 How to Grow Cur FLowers. formed roots that will hold the ball together give one shift, move to a sunny place, and when well established plant where they are to remain for the winter. Far finer buds can be obtained by budding as described on page 61, (Roses for Summer), the ground where the stocks are to remain having been excavated to a good depth, drainage supplied, and a quantity of rich soil filled in. Niphetos will thrive in a moderately high or low tem- perature. If quantity is desired, keep them at sixty- three to five. If quality, on budded stock, fifty-five to fifty-eight. At fifty the flowers will be of monstrous size, but correspondingly less in quantity. The petals of this rose being so delicate in both structure and color, excessive dampness, as well as tobacco smoke even in moderate quantity, is equally disastrous. For a lighter color in red than Meteor, Papa Gontier supplies the place so long held by the now nearly ob- solete Bon Silene, of which it isa seedling. This rose seems to do well in any good rose soil, if porous and well drained. It matures best in a cool atmosphere, not over fifty-six at night, and. with an abundance of air by day, but is impatient of sudden changes or too wet soil. While the wood is of good size, it does not grow as rap- idly as some varieties; root action is not so vigorous; for these reasons it will not absorb so much water, and requires a fleet bench, not over four inches of soil, and this well drained. If you discover in it a tendency to shed its leaves, look for sudden changes in temperature CULTURAL NOTES. 135 or over watering as the cause. To show at their best, the buds should be cut before they are open at the tip, and be placed in water under the cellar skylight until matured. One who has not tried this will be astonished at the transformation that will take place in a few days. Sometimes in cold weather four days after cutting will be required to develop them perfectly and show them at their best. If exposed to the light and no ice allowed to come near them in the cellar they will retain their fine coloring and be of twice the value they were when first cut. All lovers of color admire the silvery pink of La France, and in popular favor it stands second only to Mermet, while with many it occupies first place. It is by no means a difficult rose to grow, though somewhat delicate in comparison with others. It loves a soil suit- able for Perle, but as it is subject to black spot, water- ing and atmospheric changes must be carefully attended to. To develop well it should be grown in a tempera- ture varying but little from sixty-two at night. The buds should never be cut until well expanded, which detracts from its value as a shipping rose. With- in afew hours from the time they are open, they should be on the market, undergoing in the meantime as little handling as possible, the delicacy of both petals and color—which makes them such favorites—forbidding what to some varieties is a benefit. White La France, a rose of exceedingly delicate col- 136 How to Grow Cur FLOwERs. oring, and a favorite in some sections, requires much the same treatment as that already described for La France. American Beauty supplies both form and color not found in any of the foregoing. Not all who try, suc- ceed with it, but the cause of failure is not always easy to determine. Some who succeed once, fail on the next trial, and it is desirable that all the conditions of both success and failure should be made a subject of careful study. No one would dare lay down any set formula of treatment, as may be done with some varieties, for all such are liable to fail, as the writer has had the op- portunity of proving. This dear rose—in more senses than one—is exceed- ingly capricious, and often found in the condition in which a cynic once classed her glorious namesake, “ when she will she will,and when she wont she wont.” I venture the assertion, however, that he whose percep- tions are keen enough to match the latter, will usually succeed with the first also. Were I to venture any cultural suggestions they would be the following: Give it the same soil as Mermet, plant early, the last ot May if possible, and with good strong plants that have never been allowed to become pot bound. Do not let the night temperature fall below 58° or exceed 63°. Should very thick, heavy canes come up from the bot- tom, that will not form a bud when left to mature, pinch off such as they appear when from twelve to fifteen CuLtruraL Nores. 137 inches high, and from one to four side shoots will form that are pretty sure to bud. Strong shoots that go blind will, if bent over, usually throw blooming shoots from the lower buds, or from the base of the plant. It isa ravenous feeder and you must do well by it if you would see a fine growth. The remaining roses used for winter work are mainly duplicates in color of those already described. Among these, Sunset, asport from Perle, and Duchess of Albany, from La France, should be given in the main the same treatment as described for the varieties from which they originated. Sunset is less apt to come deformed in winter than its parent, Perle, the buds being formed mainly on single stems instead of in cluster form, as is sometimes the case with the latter. Waban, a sport from Mermet, has, so far as I know, been utterly unable to redeem herself in the estimation of growers, and must be set down as worthless in most localities, but the color so much sought after, as well as good habit, seems to have been found in her sister, the Bridesmaid. This is also a sister of the Bride and bids fair to rank with her in popular favor. It shows no inclination to throw malformed buds, and holds its color well dur- ing long continued dark weather, the only defect which can be found with its illustrious parent. I have had the opportunity of watching this rose for a year, and find treatment accorded Mermet, suited to this also. Madam Pierre Guillott is another rose not as well 138 How to Grow Cur FLOwERs. known as some but one highly prized by those who love variegation in color. The ground work of lemon white, daintily bordered with pink, gives us ashade not found in any save Watteville, and superior to that va- riety in both coloring, productivness and ease with which it isgrown. Like many others it is better suited for summer flowering, being seen at its best in early fall and spring. To be made profitable in winter, it should be given a shallow bench near the glass, and grown ina night temperature of from 65° to 68°. It is one of the best keepers we have and exceedingly productive. Those desiring to grow Meteor, and not wishing to plant an entire house of it, will find this to do well in the same temperature, the three south rows of a middle bench, as well as the south bench itself, being well adapted to its growth. Pierre Guillott is another of this class though different in color. It may not re- quire quite so high a temperature as the former, but should not be grown at less than 63°. This also is a better summer than winter rose. Madam Watteville succeeds well with only a few growers ; with me it does best in asoil and temperature suited to La France, but burns easily and needs care- ful watching and the glass clouded slightly, as soon as the sun commences to take strong effect. It should be allowed to expand well on the bush before cutting, placed in water and kept twenty-four hours before being offered for sale. CuLTURAL NOTEs. 159 Wm. Francis Bennett has been grown less with each passing year, for the reason that it is not an easy rose to cultivate, and that others of nearly the same shade, with which success is more assured, have in a great measure taken its place. Its delicious fragrance, warm color, perfect form and beautiful foliage, made all ac- quainted with it reluctant to part company with so agreeable a variety, but one by one the growers have abandoned its cultivation. It should be grown at about 60°, allowed to expand fully, cut and placed in a cool cellar for a few hours, when it will gather its petals like a tulip and be ready for a quick sale. Many who are unable to grow American Beauty to profit, find a substitute for it in some respects in Souy. de Wootton. It will bear very high feed, and if the manure is two years old and well composted, use half manure and half soil. Let the soil used be a stiff strong loam. Grow in a night temperature of from 50° to 55°, and do not allow more than one bud to mature on acane. If we could all grow such blooms of this as were shown at Toronto in the winter of ’90, I very much fear American Beauty would fall into “ innocu- ous desuetude.” If those who cannot grow Beauty successfully, and still desire a rose of that form and color for their own retail trade, will give this a trial under the above con- ditions, they will find in it a very fair substitute for Beauty save in fragrance. 140 How to Grow Cut FLOwERs. Mad. Cusin is a rose which seems to succeed wit only a few, and these few eastern growers. I am fre to say I have not as yet found what it requires, nor ¢ I know a western grower who succeeds with it as we as they do around New York. Those who have ha the best success, grow it in a heavy soil and in a nigl temperature of 58 to 60°. At first sight, it display but few qualities except prolificness that are calculate to attract the grower, and the purchaser must also ] educated to its use. Unattractive in color by sunligh its beauty of color is brought out only under gasligh Seen thus in masses with an abundance of foliage, at once chains the attention of all beholders. Th makes it one of the most popular roses for evenir decoration. For a rose to “fill in,” used either for cut sprays | asa substitute for white in designs when that col cannot be obtained, probably no one rose grown t day answers the purpose better than Clothilde Soupe: Though worthless from a commercial standpoint, it valuable to the small grower for home trade, as it w: grow in almost any good soil, and in a mixed collectio The last rose among the older teas worthy of me tion in this connection, is Mad. Hoste. It requires stiff soil, strong feed and a temperature of from 58 60°. It is very productive, many who grow for the own use preferring it to any other of its color, becau they can, if necessary, substitute it for either Perle THE Forcing or Hyprips. 141 Bride. All weak wood, as well ax buds, should be re- moved, as it has the habit of producing more than it can mature into first-class flowers. Among the new roses of more recent date, Kaiserina Augusta Victoria and Mad. Testout give great prom- ise, and there is no doubt a place for both if they con- tinue as they have commenced. The former resembles Cornelia Cook in form, more than any now grown, but is much more easily handled than that variety was ever capable of being. It is an exceedingly strong grower, and will undoubtedly become popular wher- ever a rose of that color is needed for vase decoration, as the foliage is fine and abundant. Mad. Testout re- sembles La France in many respects, but is a stronger grower, and the blooms larger. It is of too recent origin to be able to say just what treatment is best adapted to its need. CHAPTER XXX. ‘THE FORCING OF HYBRIDS. The difficulties attending hybrid forcing are so great, very few, comparatively, attempt it. In order to be profitable, wholesale prices should range from $100 per 100 at Christmas, to $25.00 per 100 two months later, and the markets are few that encourage a grower to incur the necessary risk. Three methods are employed for blooming this class—the solid border, growing in 142 How to Grow Cut FLoweErs. pots, and in shallow benches. The first of these meth- ods was the only way until within a few years, and Gen- eral Jacquimenot about the only variety, and there are many fine producing beds of this kind in existence yet. Before planting, the ground should be thoroughly and deeply trenched, tile drainage provided where inclined to be wet, rich soil filled in and planted with budded or grafted stock, as these unquestionably give larger blooms. After blooming they will make their growth for the following season’s work, and after this time water should be withheld in order to have the wood ripen early, in some cases scarcely any water being used save that applied to the foliage during the period of growth. Plenty of air should be given, but the sash should be so arranged as to exclude all rain. After two or three severe frosts in the fall, to which they should be ex- posed, prune them back to strong eyes, clean the house of leaves, give a mulch of cow manure two inches deep and wash this into the soil by a good watering. Bend over and tie all canes so as to fill the space evenly, and for the first. week carry a low temperature. As the buds swell and breaks commence, the temperature can be gradually raised, but should not be above fifty until the buds commence to set, which will be in from four to six weeks. During this time, or while the buds are form- ing, water must be used with great care, but syringing on bright days should be well attended to. After the buds are formed, both water and feed may be supplied Tue Forcing or Hyzrips. 143 more liberally, and from this time the temperature grad- ually raised to fifty-six or eight. From ten to twelve weeks are required from the time the plants are started until the first buds are ready for market. One thing to be avoided in a crop of this kind is to have it mature to any extent during Lent, but as these dates vary, each grower must figure for himself, taking into account the ripeness of the wood as well as the coolness, or other- wise, of the fall. The blooming period can then be advanced by a week, or retarded several at the option of the operator, by either raising or lowering the tem- perature of the house. Less risk attends this than other _ methods, and it is well adapted to the want of those who have a retail trade which will warrant them in de- voting a small house to this purpose, but of course early bloom cannot be obtained in this way. Growing hy- brids on benches for early bloom is a trade in itself, and requires not only experience but great skill and sound judgment. Although I have tried this method to some extent in years past, the markets of the west have not as yet given the encouragement necessary for supplying this class of stock, consequently I have not given the time and study needed to render success assured in this method. For this reason I give here the system recom- mended by a prominent eastern grower, who has had great success in this special line. The Hon. Jno. Burton, who has the reputation of be- ing the best grower of hybrids about Philadelphia, thus states his method of growing them on shallow benches: i44 How to Grow Cut FLowers. “ Shallow benches are preferred, not because they wil! produce more flowers, but for the reason the moisture is under such perfect control they can be produced much earlier than in solid beds. No matter what plan s adopted, there is great uncertainty about getting hybrid roses to bloom early. I have often had a par- tial failure when the treatment has been as nearly as possible the same as that given in other houses in which the best success was obtained. But when you do obtain them in perfect form it will repay you, whether grown for profit, or for your own pleasure or amusement. A few well finished hybrids on stems two feet long, with tine foliage and good substance of petal, will give as much satisfaction generally, as an armful of teas. “The houses used for this purpose are of the ordinary pattern, three-fourths span, the benches constructed in the usual way, provided with good drainage and filled with soil five inches deep. For two years past I have used no manure in the soil provided for this work, but have mixed with it flour of ‘bone at the rate of twe hundred pounds to a house one hundred feet long Were the soil poor I would also add one load of manure to eight of soil. “For early planting, two methods are adopted for ob taining the plants needed. They are either soft cut tings taken from the crop flowering the last of Decem: ber, or, as is more generally the case, plants made fron cuttings from the last crop of the previous summer’ Tue Forcine or Hysrips. 145 growth. These should be grown in three-inch pots, rested through November and December, washed out and repotted about January first, and in this way they make fine plants for placing in the border in March or April. “When planting, place the weaker growers on the low benches, and those required for first flowering should be in position by April, as the growth must be made by the last of July and the plants ready for ripening. Some growers prefer plants budded or grafted on ma- netta, but if I have a good plant from a three-inch pot, as already described, ready to plant April first, I am satisfied. ; “From this time until you are ready to ripen the wood every means must be adopted for producing a strong, rapid growth. Give them plenty of water, and all the air needed for a healthy, sturdy growth. When the days are hot and dry, do not fail to syringe often, in order to keep down red spider, for if there is much of this when it becomes necessary to ripen the wood, as soon as water is withheld the leaves will begin to fall and the result will be, the plant will have neither leaves nor flowers. “The ripening of the wood is the most important, as wellas difficult part of the process. What is sought to be accomplished is to stop the growth, harden the wood and drop the leaves without loosing the roots, and this can only be done by the very careful use of water. If they have 146 How to Grow Cut FLoweErs. been getting water every day, use it only every other day, then every third day, but watch carefully that the wood does not shrivel, or the leaves burn. When water is given, do not be afraid of supplying it liberally, for if the plants are kept fresh by syringing, or damping the top soil only, the surface roots will be kept alive, while all below will be dead. “Two months will be required in which to thoroughly harden the wood. After this is accomplished, prune out all soft and weak wood, leaving from two to four canes, according to the strength of the plant, the chances being that the strongest of these will break from two eyes, and mature buds from each. These canes should be cut back to within from six to twelve inches of the bed, according to the strength of the plant. The house should be cleaned of dead leaves, trimmings and ac- cumulations of any kind, by a thorough sweeping, after which give two or three light waterings to soften the soil. When this has been done, give a top dressing of two inches of strong, fresh cow manure, and water un- til the bed is weil soaked. “Tf this is the first house to be brought to bloom, it will now be the last of September or the first of October, so give all the ventilation possible as they will soon start into growth. Syringe every fine day, but be careful about water, as.the heavy top dressing will keep them from drying out very fast, and root action has only just commenced. Guard against green fly and mildew, as the last is apt to appear with the advent of cool nights. Tue Forcrxnc or Hyprips. 147 “Karly hybrids are apt to be short stemmed, soas soon as you are satisfied the buds are set, give a little higher temperature, about sixty-five at night, which will have a tendency to lengthen out the stem and not injure the flowers, if you gradually reduce the temperature some time before the buds show color. The flowers should open in a night temperature of from fifty to fifty-five; lower than that they do not develop freely. ‘““Never let the beds get dry after the plants are well covered with foliage, as a bed of healthy hybrids carries a great quantity of large leaves that quickly suffer if the soil become at all dry. Occasionally I find it neces- sary to use manure water after the buds are set, but only when the plants are not of the right color, or the top dressing appears dried, which will happen if too old when applied. ‘After the flowers have been cut from an early house, the plants can be removed and the room occupied with those grown in boxes for the purpose, or they can be dried off for about three weeks, the blind wood removed and started up as before. By this plan you will obtain about half a crop of flowers for Easter. or early spring, when they are still in demand. “The treatment of later houses will be the same, ex- cept the planting need not be done as early, and the drying will not be so tedious, the cool nights helping to check the growth. When starting a house in midwin- ter, use a little more heat and a little less water. 148 How to Grow Cur FLowers. “The best soil is a rich, free, sandy loam. If too stiff and heavy it is apt to open large cracks, when quite dry, in that way breaking and injuring a great many of the roots; because of this it would be well to use plenty of sand with such a soil. “The varieties mostly grown around Philadelphia are, Mrs. John Laing, Magna Charta, Uhlrich Brunner, Ba- roness Rothschild and Madam Gabriel Luizet. Some other varieties are also used, but not in quantity. Baroness Rothschild will not succeed well if brought into flower before the last of February. Mrs. John Laing must not be dried too severely or it will die after being cut back.” CHAPTER XXXI FLORIST’S GREEN. This fills such an important place in all cut flower work, especially in connection with roses, this volume would seem incomplete without a short descrivtion of such kinds as are most in demand. For many years smilax was all that could be de- pended upon for this purpose, but now both ferns and asparagus are largely grown and in many instances by specialists. Smilax is of exceedingly easy culture, but to be grown to profit, should have under heat and a rich soil about eight inches in depth. If grown more than one year, it should have a rest in July and be started Fiorist’s GREEN. 149 into growth in August by top dressing and watering, and the stringing should be all done before it makes much growth. “After the runners begin to push out strong, it should be gone over every few days and pains taken to keep the growth of each plant on its own string. This takes but little time if attended to often, but when neglected a few days causes no end of trouble. When growing rapidly, it will take considerable water, but care should be taken not to have the soil become sod- den, neither will it do to let it go for any length of time, without examining to see if the bed is dry at the bottom, as the under heat so necessary to grow a crop quickly, soon dries the nearest roots if not carefully watched. The syringe must be used to keep spider at bay, and for this purpose perfectly clear water should be used, as any sediment, clay or lime deposit will mar the clear glossy surface of the leaves. The usual reme- dies for the subjugation of green fly must be used, and in the fall when the new crop is growing, grass- hoppers must be carefully excluded, as well as con- stant watch kept for cut worms. These last are very destructive, and sometimes attain a size equal to any seen in cornfields or truck gardens. Two varicties of cut worms are often found,—the dark ones, which as a rule cut the plant at the root; and the lighter brown, that climb the plant and destroy the young shoots. Until recently no means of extermination were thought to be practicable but hand picking. Those that climb 150 How to Grow Cut FLOwERs. and work among the foliage may be easily found by lamplight, and a few nights of careful hunting will rid the bench of them. The others are more difficult to find, but the same course must be pursued, and thor- ough search made in the soil where one is suspected of being secreted. A more detailed description of the methods of destroying these worms will be found on page 167. When a crop has nearly made its growth, it may be hardened by a partial withholding of water, commenc- ing with one end and progressing each day as fast as it will be needed when ready to cut. In this way, when cutting commences, it can all be taken, the bed cleaned, mulched, watered and started into a new growth as fast as the first crop isremoved. A little liquid manure applied with the water is very beneficial after growth has commenced, and when beds are grown two years, considerable of this will be needed the second year. I would neither divide old roots for replanting, nor grow them more than two seasons. It is better to grow from seed and plant at least every two years, and thus be enabled to furnish a new and unexhausted soil. Young plants should be well grown in four inch pots by the first of August and ready to plant. Adiantums are also grown in large quantities for this purpose. Of these, cuneatum and gracillimum are used most in connection with cut flower work and respond to the same treatment. It is not necessary to raise FLorist’s GREEN. 151 seedlings every season, for if properly performed the stocks niay be divided several times. This should be donein June. Itis preferable to divide to crowns that will goin a three inch pot, removing at the same time all rusty fronds and stumps of former cuttings. If at hand, obtain a part of the soil from some upland locality where wild ferns grow, or leaf mould is to be found. If these are not to be had, chopsome sphagnum fine, mix with it flour of bone in the proportion of four quarts to a bushel, using one bushel of sphagnum so mixed, to six of good loam. The soil should be good, but free from anything in the shape of manure that is not thoroughly decomposed, and tne manure should be used rather sparingly even then. When these plants have been di- vided and potted, they should be set on a bench that has been properly shaded, all drafts kept from them, and the house kept warm, damp, and free from the en- trance of any air for a few days, or until they commence to make root. When the plants are ready, shift to a five inch pot, and from this size to an eight, which will be the last, and this should be done early in September. Crock the pots well, and for the last shift cover the crocking with a handful of sphagnum through which bone meal has been mixed in the proportion of one to eight. Fill around the ball with soil as first recom- mended, being careful to settle it with a tamping stick so there shall be no vacancies or loose places. In the spring a little liquid manure in the water once or twice 152 How to Grow Cut FLoweErs. a week will carry them through, being careful not to apply it to them when they are dry. They should be grown in a temperature of from 68° to 70°, no air ad- mitted to the plants direct, but sufficient allowed to es- cape to keep the house sweet. Shading should be sup- plied in a way that will be permanent, and for this, com- mon paint is best. If desired to give it a green tinge, it can be easily done, and the effect produced is much the same as seen in their native wilds. Warmth, a moist atmosphere and shade are the three great requi- sites to asuccessful growth. Of insect enemies, the snail is the worst, and must be guarded against. Before any plants are putina house it should be thoroughly scalded, every inch of it, wood work benches and all the soil underneath them, with boiling water. If this is done thoroughly, and snails are not brought in afterwards by means of soil or other methods, but little trouble will be had from them during the entire season. I would not advise the planting of ferns on benches, as they will not produce as many fronds by one third as when treated in the way described. Asparagus plumosus is largely taking the place of smilax for decorations. Form a solid bed on the ground where plenty of head room can be had, giving tile drainage and a foot of good soil. For the first sea- son’s growth, plant as early as you can spare the room, giving it as much of the season as possible, but the same plants will do well a or three years. After THE CARNATION. » 153 the crop has been cut, if bench room is needed, build a temporary one over it and let it go wild until August Ist, withholding water from it. This gives a natural period of rest. As early as September 1st, clean up, top dress and start into growth, and by December it should have made its growth, been. hardened off and be ready for cutting. Asa good two year old plant will make from one to three strings, commanding from 50 to 75 cents each, it will readily be seen that this is a paying crop. CHAPTER XXXII. THE CARNATION, In the estimation of most flower lovers, this ranks second only to the rose. The beautiful variegations in color, its delightful fragrance, and good keeping quali- ties rendering it a favorite with all, and I somewhat doubt if the rose, even, is now claiming as much atten- tion from growers of cut flowers as is this grand flower. Improvements through hybridization during the past few years have been very marked, and to-day buyers are oftentimes at a loss to decide which of the many varieties offered, they shall replace the older ones with. It is a well established fact that the life of all varie- ties is comparatively short. Some place the period during which any one varigty can be grown to profit, as being limited to five or six years. It is certainly true 154 How to Grow Cut FLoweErs. —and as we look backward our own experience proves it beyond question—that many well known-varieties fail to do as well as at first, some having failed altogetiver, deterioration going on from year to year until they ceased to be a source of profit and had to be discarded. There is little doubt but that the method of reproduc- tion is largely responsible for this state of things, for the reason that nature designed a period of rest for this plant, but when we find a variety suited to our trade or locality, we usually keep it growing three hundred and sixty- five days in the year, and as many years as its consti- tutional vigor will sustain it. That the vigor of all plants of this class is greater the nearer they are to the parent seed, the numerous new seedlings now produced every year fully attest. It has come to be a fixed opin- ‘ion, with those who have given the matter carefulstudy, that so long as plants are renewed from cuttings with- out rest— which, by the way, it seems almost impossi- ble to give to any extent when propagated in the usual way—just so long will it be necessary to replace the old plants, every few years, with seedlings. Some of our best growers are raising seedlings each year with this end in view, hoping thus to keep the product fully up to the standard in quantity, quality also being increased through ability to keep them in more perfect health. Some varieties: show a greater degree of vital- ity than others, but with few exceptions the tendency downward can be detected early in their career. Care- THe CARNATION. 155 ful observation and trial will undoubtedly prove the life of any seedling to be longest when surrounded by all the conditions of soil and climate where it origi- nated. The record of two well known varieties, Butter- cup and Grace Wilder, would seem to prove this. The former of these grows luxuriantly in sections near where it originated, while few have any success with it else- where. Grace Wilder also is still a favorite in many localities, while in others, notwithstanding it usually makes a fine growth of foliage, the color of bloom—so exquisite in some sections—is badly mottled, rendering it utterly worthless. This would seem to indicate that growers would do well to try new varieties carefully, until they prove to be adapted to their soil and loca- tion. That a seeming necessity exists for a change of stock every few years, none who have given the matter thought will hardly deny, and the carnation grower -should carefully test every meritorious variety each year, retaining only such as suit his soil and climate. The large place this plant fills in the world of flowers warrants much more space than can be accorded it here, and if all its various interests were fully treated, it would require a volume of itself. Opinions differ materially among growers in relation to many points in its cultivation, and as these differences of opinion cannot all be given here, the writer can only state the conditions producing success or failure with him. I 156 Ilow to Grow Cur FLowers. know of no plant, seemingly of such easy cultivation, that requires more careful study than this, and this fact is coming to be generally recognized more and-more each year. So important has it become in the eyes of cultivators, a national society has recently been formed, through means of which, it is hoped, an interchange of thought and experience will result in greatly ad- vancing the interest and value of this general favor- ite, as well as stimulate all to a closer study of both its nature and needs. This is well, and everyone should avail himself of every means at his com- mand relating to its wants, through intercourse with others, and knowledge of their experience; and still, perhaps more than with any other flower we culti- vate, are we at last obliged to fall back upon our own resources. And this, because varieties and conditions which succeed with one fail with another, so there is no certainty without a trial—however popular or per- fect a plant may be in one section of the country—of its reproducing itself in these respects in another. Itisa study absolutely necessary for each grower to make for himself. Only a few general principles can be laid down as a basis of growth, and some of these must be varied to meet the want produced by variety, soil, or climate. With the writer, the following conditions have been conducive to the greatest degree of success, though failures have sometimes come where they have been THE CARNATION. 157 observed ; but, as already stated, these failures were due mainly to changing to such varieties as had not been previously proved, but which had succeeded in other localities, and in other soils. My experience has been that cuttings made in December, potted and kept in a temperature of from 50° to 55° until shifted to a two and a half or three-inch pot, gave the best results, as when this shift is given, the centre can be removed, causing eyes to break from the base of the plant, and if allowed to remain in the same temperature until the new roots begin to push, the plants can then be removed to a cold house or frame. This not only relieves benches always needed at that season of the year, but gives the plant a short period of rest, hardens and fits it for being placed in the open ground without injury, as soon as the season opens sufficiently. Early planting, especially in warm latitudes, is one of the great essentials, otherwise root action will not be well established with theadvent of dry or warm weather, rendering the plant liable to a feeble stunted growth. For soil, the best in my opinion for field growth, is an upland light loam that was thoroughly manured the previous season, no fertilizer whatever being used the year of planting, unless it be wood ashes, bone meal, or some known and proved commercial fertilizer that will not increase the dryness of the soil. Plant in squares fourteen by fourteen inches, so they can be worked both ways with a hand cultivator. Care should be had 158 How to Grow Crt FLoweErs. not to plant too deep, and if done early, the ball should be just below the surface, pressed down carefully, leav- ing a slight depression around the plant. If the season is dry, a light stirring of the soil each day will be of benefit, as will also a slight syringing of the foliage just at night. Topping, as a rule, should cease by the middle of August, but this must be modified by the time bloom is desired, by variety and locality, and is a point for each grower to determine for himself. No frost should ever be allowed to touch them in the fall, though a light frost on acclimated plants in the spring is not harmful. Benches should be well drained, and the soil in them six inches deep. Early out of doors, and early in doors, is the result of my observation, as it gives a strong plant early in the fall for lifting, and one that will soon adapt itself to the new order of growth. Taking one season with another, in all localities north of central Indiana, they should be housed by Septem- ber 10th. If grown. and planted as already recom- mended, by the first of September the new breaks will have formed from the last topping, the plant will be strong and in a condition to bear transplanting much better than when the blooming stems are well advanced, as in this condition the check given sometimes blasts the first buds. For this class of plants, and at this season of the year, provided the soil from which they are taken and to which they are to be removed is simi- lar in character, lifting carefully with a ball is far pre- Tue CARNATION. 159 ferable to shaking out clean, as may safely be done with smaller plants. A preservation of all the roots should be sought first, and as much of the ball supporting them as can be handled conveniently, second. The distance at which they should be planted in a bench depends upon the growth they have made in the field, as well as to the length of time they are to remain in the house. In either case, they must *not be so close that air cannot circulate freely among them. Never plant them any deeper in the bench than they were grown in the field, or they are liable to decay at the base and their usefulness be destroyed. The method of planting depends upon the way it is desired to support them, and this supporting should be VAN AN AN ANY AN ANY ANY ANN ANY ANY ANY A LARK LD ROOOQOX OO XNN, Fig. 33. done as soon as planted. If the plants of a row are su arranged as to come between those of the preceding row, they can be supported best by wires running lengthwise of the bed, interlaced with string running across them. To do this, stretch rows of No. 16 galvanized wire from end to end of the bench, ten inches apart and six inches above the soil. Support these by light wooden cross 160 How to Grow Cur FLowers. pieces every twenty feet. Take common white cord, and instead of running at right angles with the first wire, carry it across the bed diagonally, passing the ball around each wire as you proceed. The distance between the strings should be six inches, and when finished the surface will be as represented in Fig. 33. Two men, one on each side of a bench, will perform the work rapidly. The plants will soon grow up through this net work and it will prevent their being pressed to the ground by the weight of additional growth. For strong plants my preference is for wire netting. Take a roll of two inch mesh chicken-wire, cut in lengths the width of the bench, divide this into two pieces, lengthwise, fasten each edge to oak or yellow pine strips one inch by half inch with small staples one-fourth of an inch in length. A still more durable way is to sew the edges with wire to five-eighths inch iron rods of suitable length. Bend this now in the form of an inverted V, and place be- tween the rows, fastening the ends of the strips to which the wire is fastened to the edge of the bench, by means of common staples. This will commend itself to all who adopt it, for the following reasons: It keeps all foliage from touching the ground at any time during the season; a constant current of air passes through the space caused by the inverted V, drying out any damp- ness that may have gathered ; liquid food can easily be supplied without wetting the foliage, and when the sea- son is over, shut one into another, they occupy but little THE CARrNatvion, 161 space, can quickly be placed in position when wanted, and will last for years if properly cared for. Early in-door planting requires watchfulness as well as the best of facilities for keeping down the tempera- ture. To grow carnations successfully, abundant ven- tilation must be provided both in the roof, at the ends and in both walls, and for this reason houses used for them should never join each other. Build to obtain the greatest amount of sunlight, but above all, provide all the ventilation possible. The soil in which they are planted shouid not be made as firm as described for roses, but left loose enough to be able to plant with the hand, after which, water well. For the first week shade with a clay wash, put on every inch of air possible, and if very warm, syringe the foliage with a fine spray ax often as it becomes dry, being careful not to saturate the soil. Root action under these conditions will com- mence at once, and no matter how hot it is, your plants will in a week forget that they were ever moved. The average night temperature in which carnations should be grown for flowering, is fifty-six, but varies with varie- ties, some requiring more, some less. It also depends upon the use to which the plants are to be put. If itis to fill up space that will be wanted for other purposes after the first crop is off, they should be cut back in the field with thisend in view. In this case the night tem- perature can be a few degrees higher, but all plants which you desire should bloom from November to July 162 How to Grow Cut FLOWwERs. must be given a lower temperature; nor will it do to deprive them to any extent of their foliage. I consider this a fruitful source of some of the obstacles we meet to- day, and shall have occasion to refer to it again under the head of the diseases to which this plant is susceptible. Tt will have been observed by those acquainted with carnations, that the conditions most suitable to their ‘development in the open air, are to be found in the month of September. It is then they make the most rapid as well as healthy growth, and if we would obtain the most perfect success it is well for us to study nature’s methods during the month spoken of. At this season of the year the days are usually warm but the nights cool, and in the latter part of the month, mercury often indicates forty. I do not believe in grow- ing carnations cool, as it is termed, if that means the thermometer should never be allowed to rise above sixty during the day if it can be kept that low. Sep- tember days are warm, and from this we may conclude warmth with plenty of air is not injurious, and if the temperature remains at sixty during the evening, grad- ually falling from that during the night, even to forty, it is much more in accord with the condition of things in the month referred to, than to aim to keep alow tem- perature both day and night. While a mean degree is given at fifty-six, there is no doubt but that varia- tions during the twenty-four hours of from seventy-five at noon to forty or forty-five at four in the morning, THe Carnation. 163 are more in accord with natural conditions, at the season of the year in which they do the best in the field. The soil, if it be asandy loam sod, may be made as strong as one part of manure to five of soil, but it is imperative that the manure be:so thoroughly decom- posed and mixed through the soil, as to render its pres- ence difficult of detection. Bone meal and wood ashes are also good, but to be available as food, should be incorporated with the soil pile when made, and this should be several months in advance of the time when it will be needed, in order to have it thoroughly de- composed, as the structure of carnation roots is fine, and they are impatient of any coarse or green material. When necessary to supply food during their period of flowering, if the dirt has settled so the top has fallen below the balls of the plants, a light mulching between the rows will be of benefit, otherwise it is easiest to supply what is needed in a liquid state, but it is always better to supply this in small doses and often, than to give it in any abundance. Some growers supply a lit- tle with the water every time it is applied to the soil. For a change from the usual forms, aqua ammonia is good, and if used should not exceed one pint to two barrels of water, and in this strength no fears need be entertained of injury to the plants, even though used quite often. Asin the feeding of roses, it is. well to rotate liquids, but care must be taken not to give them more than they can assimilate. 164 How to Grow Cur Flowers. One of the most congenial forms of food is to be found in spent hops. These must never be used in the green state, but should be at least a year old before they are fit for plant food, and if exposed to the air and weather for two years, so much the better. When brought from the brewery they should not be piled more than three feet deep, and turned often in order not to have them fire-fang. When all danger of this ix passed, they can be brought together in more compact form, and turned occasionally until wanted for use. I would not advise mixing them with the soil, but have had excellent success when they have been used on the bottom of a bench. Before filling with soil, spread evenly over the whole surface a cout from an inch to one and a half inches deep, and let the roots seek them when they wish. Eventually they will be completely matted with roots if a proper degree of moisture is given. Some of the finest and most prolific plants I have ever grown were the result of this treatment. When it is desired to bloom a house of carnations the entire season, the night temperature should not exceed 55° during the winter months, nor should any foliage be taken from the plants. As the power of the sun increases in the spring, a light shading should be applied to the glass. Keep all weeds removed, and carly in March apply a mulching two inchesdeep. The manure used for this purpose should be a year old. For spider and green fly, both spraying and fumiga- Tue CARNATION, 165 ting must be attended to, but never syringe in the lat- ter part of the day, or allow any dampness to be pre- sent on the foliage as night approaches. Some of our finest varieties, in order to make first-class flowers, need to be disbudded. This also each grower must regulate in accordance with the requirement of his market. Varieties change so often, and there are so many in cultivation, it does not seem best to occupy space here in an endeavor to describe their individual treatment, and in this connection I will only speak of Buttercup, as up to the present time it is the best of its color, and comparatively few succeed with it. More than usual care should be exercised to have every cutting in per- fect health when taken from the plant. These should be rooted, and treated as previously described, as they are more difficult to propagate after January. In the field they can be planted in a good loam, but for bench work they need a stiffer soil than other varieties, and I have had the best success on south benches and where under heat was abundant. Propagate and grow twice the number you wish to flower, and when hous- ing never allow any plants to come inside that have the slightest indication of anything but the most per- fect health. The chief insect enemies, aside from those mentioned, are slugs, mice, twitter and cut worms. Slugs and snails will be conspicuous by their absence if the house has been thoroughly scalded before being planted. 166 How Tro Grow Cur FLowers. Mice are often very destructive and must be disposed of by trapping, or by poison. Twitter is caused by a small insect similar to the green fly—so says Prof. Ba- ker—and the remedies effectual with that, are with this also. Their presence becomes known when the leaves are seen to curl, and the shoot curve as though it had been stung. For a remedy in the field, kerosene emulsion is recommended by the same authority. Not having been troubled with it since knowing what it was, I have not had occasion to try this remedy. Cut worms work on the buds, cutting a small hole through its case and eating off the petals at their juncture with its base. Their work is done at night, secreting them- selves in the soil, under anything on its surface, or among the foliage at the base of the plant as soon as dawn appears. The appearance of cut worms among carnations is comparatively new, and the writer has been afflicted with their presence but once, in the win- ter of ’92. The fact that only one variety was at- tacked by them, although there was another in the same house, led to the conclusion the eggs must have been deposited on the plants while in the field, as no others were affected, nor were other carnations grown in the same part of the field as those upon which the worms were found. When their depredations are first noticed, they should be attended to at once, or every bud is liable to be destroyed in a short time. In the instance referred to, but little attention was THE CARNATION. 167 paid to them at first, the carnations were removed when the bench was needed, a little sand spread over the soil and the bench filled with plants of Meteor in five inch pots. After these had been there a short time, it was noticed something was at work on the foliage, but no worms were found at first, but in a short time they had grown so rapidly that in two nights they nearly stripped the plants of foliage. A search among the pots unearthed nearly a quart two-thirds grown, on a bench of seven hundred square feet. Al- though no opportunity has been given to try it, I feel confident a dose of vaporized extract applied at night would exterminate them. Mr. Lombard, a large grower in Massachusetts, recommends Dalmation powder in about the proportion of one pound to 1,000 plants, dusting it all over the foliage. He states he has tried it for both carnations and smilax, with the result that large quantities were killed, and that three applications rid the place of them. Carnation blooms are benefited by keeping the stems in water in a cool place a few hours before placing them on the market. If you would establish a repu- tation for first-class flowers, careful attention must be given to every detail connected with their growth. Keep pace with the times by proving varieties that take high rank elsewhere, and if adapted to your soil, be in a condition to compete with others for the pat- ronage of your section. As the cut flower business is 168 How to Grow Crvr FLowEers conducted now, it is the man who keeps both eyes and ears open to what is going on around him, who reaps profit from his investment. Study carefully all the peculiarities of both plant and soil. Allow no flowers to go on the market until fully developed, and thus in- crease both size and value. Above all, do not place first and second-class flowers together. Bunch the lat- ter by themselves or discard them altogether, the others will bring more money, even if their number is con- siderably less. As fast as a variety ceases to do as well with you as in former'years, no matter how great a favorite it has been, substitute for it new and younger blood from among the varieties you have tested, and that have proved to be adapted to your locality. CHAPTER XXXII. DISEASES OF THE CARNATION. The subject of the various diseases to which this plant is liable, is being made a careful study by men well qualified for this particular line of investigation. Much has already been revealed by these researches, much also is yet to be discovered as to prevention and cure. No doubt exists in my mind but what the disease de- nominated the “yellows” in former years, was caused to a great extent through exhausted vitality. The plant had served its day and generation, had been grown without cessation, and either died of premature DISEASES OF THE CARNATION. 169 old age or became so debilitated as to fall an easy prey to some of the diseases about which we then knew so little. I remember also that some years since, when living where land was scarce, this trouble was more frequent among plants grown for twoor more years upon the same ground. An experience of many years with various species of plants, has convinced me that almost without exception, health and vigor are best preserved when a system of rotation is strictly adhered to. I do not believe the carnation is an exception to the gen- eral rule, but on the contrary, that disease is less liable to attack plants full of vigor, and that this vigor is in- creased when the plants are grown in fresh soil each season. Rust, a later and very dangerous enemy, scientists tell us is a fungus, and spreads with great rapidity. It is only within a few days that the writer has seen this pest, and from what little was seen of it then, he be- came convinced it was a disease every grower should take the utmost precaution to avoid. There is no doubt but that it is highly contagious, and if once seen, vigorous measures should be taken to stamp it out. It first appears on the leaves in form of small brown 170 How to Grow Cur FLowErs. spots. These are raised above the surface and will rub off and discolor the hand when it is passed over them. Prof. Arthur, of Purdue University, describes this very fully in a paper read before the American Carna- tion Society at Buffalo, in 1892, from which I make the following extract: “Rust has long been known in Europe, and is especi- ally common in Italy and Germany. The first impres- sion that it was brought from Europe in the importa- tion of 1891 is found to be erroneous, it having been found by Prof. Taft, of Lansing, Mich., in 1890, and was known in some places along the Hudson River three years previous. So far as present information goes, the distribution of carnation rust in America has been accomplished within four years. Itisnow known to occur in Massachusetts, Pennsylvania, New York, Ohio, Michigan and Indiana, and a few infected centres might distribute the rust by means of rooted cuttings, as widely as there is a demand for the flowers. “A precautionary measure, after rust has appeared in a house, is to keep the air as cool and dry as is com- patible with the health of the plants, thus retarding the growth and distribution of the spores. “Wherever the rust has obtained much headway, and especially where it appears shortly after the plants have been housed in the fall, the use of some fungi- cide is almost imperative.” The full text of this paper may be found in Vol. 7, DISEASES OF THE CARNATION. 171 page 587 of the American Florist. Another illustrated paper from the pen of Prof. Atkinson, of Cornell Uni- versity, may also be found in Vol. 8, No. 247, of the same publication. The main thing is to avoid rust by being careful not to import upon the place any diseased plants, as well as to use preventive measures, and not wait for the disease to develop and have to burn the crop. Mr. Ward, a large grower in the state of New York, recommends the following treatment: CurRaTIve AGENCIES UsrEp—Bordeaux Mixture Dry, Bor- deaux Mixture Liquid, Ammonia Solution and Fostite. FormuLa—Dry Bordeaux.—Dissolve 4 lbs. sulphate of cop- per in two gallons boiling water. Dry slack two bushels of quick lime with the copper solution. The lime must be dry powder after slacking. BorpEAux MIxtuRE—Liquid.—Dissolve 6 lbs. sulphate of copper in two gallons boiling water and let cool. Mix one peck quick lime in six gallons water and let cool and mix the two solutions. Pour same into a kerosene barrel containing 40 gal- lons water and stir while using. AMMONIA SOLUTION.—Two quarts ammonia in which dis- solve one pound sulphate of copper, and pour this solution in 20 or 30 gallons of water. = TREATMENT. DippPinG.—All young plants are immersed in the liquid Bor- deaux mixture when set in the open ground. All mature plants are immersed (tops only, not the roots) in the same mixture when benching in. 2 SprayING.—All young plants are sprayed with either the liquid Bordeaux or ammonia solution once in two jweeks while under glass, and all field plants are sprayed the same in field. © 172 How to Grow Crt FLowens. Fostitre.—Under glass all plant houses are blown full of Fostite in a fine cloud every dark, cloudy day. * Dry Bordeaux is sprinkled over all paths and under all benches every two months. DISEASES OF THE CARNATION. 173 These precautionary measures it is well to adopt if there is the least suspicion of the presence of the disease. If it should appear, avoid using water on the foliage save in the distribution of the solu- tion, and remove and burn all affected plants at once. The other diseases to which the carnation is subject are: Leaf spot (Septoria), as shown in Fig 35. Anthracnose, as y seen in Fig. 36, and Bacterial disease shown in Fig. 37, These engravings were used in illus- trating the papers read before the Car- nation Society at Pittsburgh in Febru- ary of the present year by Professors Atkinson and Hal- stead. A fuller de- scription of the en- gravings will be found in those pa- pers as published. By these illustrations readers will be able to recog- 174 How to Grow Cur Frowers. nize the different forms of disease as they may develop, without the detailed description so clearly given in the pages referred to. The practical question which arises is, how shall these diseases be avoided, or if they ap- pear, what is the remedy. In answer to this last ques- tion Prof. Halstead, who has given this matter careful study, recommends the following formulas: “(1.) Potassium sulphide solution: Potassium sul- phide, one ounce; water, ten gallons. The potassium sulphide is a solid, costing fifteen cents a pound, and is easily dissolved in the water as needed. In some cases it has been most convenient for me to dissolve the solid in a quart bottle and ask the gardener to pour out the required amount as needed. The application is by spraying thoroughly about once a week. The results have been so marked that in one instance a large grower of carnations after using this mixture for a sea- son wrote me that he felt confident that it had saved him a great deal and that if generally used it would prove a blesssing to all who are affected with carnation diseases of the sorts above mentioned. Possibly it would be of benefit when rust is the leading enemy. “@Q.) The Bordeaux mixture. Perhaps the best fun- gicide now in use in orchard and garden is the Bor- deaux mixture. This is made as follows: Copper sul- phate, three pounds; lime (unslacked), two pounds; water, twenty-two gallons. Dissolve the sulphate of copper in one vessel and slack the lime in another, DISEASES OF THE CARNATION. 175 then mix the two and dilute to the required strength. This is the so-called half-strength Bordeaux mixture which has, in many instances, during the past season, proved as effective as the full strength, and for car- ; by a re Fig. 37. nations will be strong enough. It is seen that this is a lime mixture and the foliage will be covered with a bluish white layer. But it is to be remembered that this does not differ greatly from the natural color of 176 How to Grow Cur FLowers. the carnation leaf and stem, and it is one that can be quickly removed from the portion sent to market. A weekly spraying of the plants with this Bordeaux mix- ture should prove remunerative in houses troubled with fungous enemies. The Bordeaux mixture is in- expensive, the copper sulphate (blue vitrio! or blue stone) costing eight cents per pound. “3.) Theammoniacal solution: A third compound that does not have the lime and therefore gives the sprayed plants no marked coating is the ammoniacal solution of copper carbonate. Its formula is as follows: Copper carbonate, five ounces; aqua ammonia (26), five pints; water, fifty gallons. The copper carbonate is first mixed with water into a paste and the ammonia slowly added until the solution becomes clear. This. can be kept in a bottle and the required amount diluted as desired for spraying. The carbonate of copper costs thirty-five cents a pound and ammonia sixteen cents a quart, and therefore enough for spraying a large house weekly is a small bill of expense. “Taking all things into consideration it is probable that the three preparations above described are arranged in the order of excellence, the best being placed last.” The disease called anthracnose, is better known by florists as “the cutting bed fungus.” This is the form so destructive at times to cuttings when in the sand. Hard wooded cuttings arc often blackened by it, but ~ its ravages are greatest among the more tender kinds DISEASES OF THE CARNATION. 177 among which is the carnation, and it is not unusual to find large numbers destroyed in a single night. Until quite recently nothing has been known that would keep this in check. The remedy I am now using for this form of fungus is similar to Prof. Halstead’s No. 3, and is 1 1b. of the sulphate of copper dissolved in 2 qts. of ammonia. In wetting down the sand before the cuttings are put in, use one pint of the solution in 60 gallons of water. Should any signs of fungus appear while the cuttings are in the sand, sprinkle them lightly with a solution made by adding one ounce of the original solution toa common can of water. One other form of disease described by Professor Halstead he calls “Rosette.” So far as my obser- vation extends, this is seen in Buttercup more fre- quently than in any other variety. Instead of grow- ing so freely in the field as to need topping, the plant affected rarely throws up a flowering shoot. Itseems to be dwarfed, and although clothed with the usual amount of foliage, this is so close jointed as to present the form suggested by the name Rosette. The first thing notice- able about these plants is their color. Instead of re- taining the beautiful dark green of perfect health, they gradually turn to a lighter hue, and if left to them- selves either remain stunted through the season, or die. I think it extremely doubtful if any remedy will reach and cure this form of disease. The best way is 178 How to Grow Cur FLoweErs. to remove them root and branch at once, and burn them. No plants should ever be removed from the field to a flowering bench that show the least traces of this disease, and if it appears, as it sometimes will, on seemingly healthy plants after removal to the house, drastic measures should at once be adopted. The first impression produced by a careful examina- tion of the illustrated papers previously referred to, on these various diseases, is, that with such an array of forces opposed to success, the fight is an unequal one, and the odds greatly against us. Be that as it may, it is a plain case of conquering or of being conquered, and while it is well to use every means at our command for overcoming and eradicating disease when present, ought we not to look for preventive, rather than curative, agencies? Have we not been violating some of nature’s laws, and thus weakened the resisting power of our plants. Iam firmly convinced that a radical change must take place in the cultivation of the carnation if we would preserve its flowering properties. In true Amer- ican style we have rushed this plant, as we do every thing else we think we see any money in, and in so doing have nearly doubled the time nature designed it to be in active working condition. We claim that exhausted vitality must be restored through the medium of healthy seedlings. After we have obtained these, what do we do? Plant a bench or DISEASES OF THE CARNATION. 179 a house with them, try to mature fine show blooms, at the same time stripping the plants of every cutting that can be obtained for sale. Disease is thus invited, and I think that cases in which the invitation is not quickly responded to, will be found to be the excep- tion. Two instances of this kind have come under my observation within twelve months, one of them upon my own place. The varieties in question were very strong growing two year old seedlings, apparently . In perfect health. The treatment given them was such as has just been described, and resulted in both in- stances in a bad case of the spot disease, while other varieties within the same walls, treated in a more hu- mane manner, gave no indication of its presence. While the removal of a few cuttings from healthy plants that produce them in abundance may be no in- jury, yet as a rule such as are set apart for flowering, especially if cut with long stems, should be given all the foliage with which nature surrounds them. Again it would be more in the line of natural con ditions could we give our young plants a longer period of rest. This can only be done by planting for this special purpose in the spring, taking out the bloom buds, and from the laterals which form, propagate the stock for next season’s planting. This should be done early enough to have them rooted and boxed, ready to setaway in a cool place, as soon as cold weather comes. In this way, from three to four months of rest can be given them. 180 How to Grow Cur FLOWERs. Still another method is to grow the plants as before described, but not to remove the bloom buds until time to take up the plants. They should then be pot- ted, and after roots have formed, the plants should be kept in a dormant state during the winter. Whenever the cuttings are wanted, the plants can be brought in- to a warm house and the laterals will soon form. This is the only way in which perfect rest can be given . and at the same time have young spring struck cut- tings for field planting. If a similar system were to be pursued with winter grown cuttings offered for sale, it would greatly lessen the danger we so much desire to avoid. On these no flowers should be allowed to mature. As soon as the bud fairly appears, break it off, removing with it such laterals as throw bloom, and from the rest make the desired stock, leaving the foliage at the base of the plant for its support. The plants should also be grown in a temperature somewhat below the average. The objection which will be raised by growers to this method, is its expense. Two or three times as much would have to be paid for cuttings as they can now be obtained for, in order to make it remunera- tive, but would it not be to the interest of the buyer to insist upon this class of stock and be willing to pay a fair price for it, rather than to risk the income from an entire crop upon a cheaper grade? It goes without saying that carnation growers will be willing to give CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 181 us whatever we are willing to pay for, but in the pres- ent headlong race for trade the price of rooted carna- tion cuttings has fallen below that at which a first-class article can be produced. CHAPTER XANIY. CHRYSANTHEMUMS. The first. question for the cut flower grower to decide is, not how many he shall grow, or in what form he shall grow them, but shall he grow any. Will the mar- ket upon which I depend for their sale, consume the crop at prices that will compensate me for the labor? Another query must also be answered while this is un- der consideration. Ifa house is devoted to them, what crops will follow that can be disposed of, and that will consume the space without loss of time? The amount of bloom placed on the market each season, by those who plant and gather it in much the same way they would sow and reap a sheaf of grain, and with as little care, is appalling. If this is the only class of bloom your market will take, it is better to leave their culti- vation to others, saving what little of time and strength would be expended on them, for other things. If on the other hand the taste of the consumer in your vicinity nas been educated to look for, and be willing to pay for a better article, no one who grows 182 How to Grow Cut FLoweErs. and sells his own product without the intervention of middlemen, will need to hesitate long as to the form in which they are to be grown or as to what shall succeed them. The demand will regulate the form, and on all retail places there are many ways of supplying a crop to occupy the vacant space. With the commercial grower, the matter of succession must be decided be- fore commencing. If your market will take a crop of Harrisii lilies for Easter, or of hybrids that have been grown through the summer in boxes, then a crop of chrysanthemums will add materially to the income to be derived from a house, as either of the above can then be followed by a crop of teas or hybrids for the season following, and no time will be lost. When the market demands well grown sprays, the cuttings should be made in April, potted, topped once, shifted, and planted in the bench in June twelve inches each way, and the first shoots pinched out once only. As they grow, all weak wood should be removed, and the buds on those allowed to mature, thinned to the number of blooms desired in a spray. This method will not give as strong or straight stems as when each plant is allowed to mature but one spray. When grown in the last named form the cuttings may be made and the planting done two or three weeks later. When grown to single stem the top should never be removed, but every facility given the plants to make straight stems by staking them at the proper time. CHRYSANTHEMUM. 183 They can also be more easily cared for when the rows across a bench are 12 inches apart, but the plants con- stituting the row may be six inches apart. Again, if single flowers on long stems are desired, soft cuttings should be rooted by the first of July, and planted as soon as ready from a two inch pot, in four inches of soil, six inches by 12, as before described. Care should be taken to plant the low growing varieties where there is the least amount of head room. If they are to be supported by wire stakes, the upper wires should be in position before the bench is planted. The soil should be composed of two-thirds decayed sod of a rather light texture, and one-third well com- posted manure, to which add fifty lbs of flour of bone to the amount of soil necessary for a hundred foot house. Give them plenty of air without drafts. See that they never lack for water, or receive a check of any kind from the time the cutting is made, until the bloom is perfected. Remove all laterals as fast as they appear, and as soon as the buds are formed, remove all but one. This should usually be the crown, but if that is in any way imperfect, select the best one. From this time until the flowers show color, liquid -manure should be supplied liberally, but not too strong, or when the soil is in the least dry. In whatever por- tion of the house your highest colors are planted, see that the glass is shaded slightly, or the full sunlight will fade the bloom. 184 How to Grow Cut Fiowers. When flowers are grown for exhibition purposes, the plants should be given more room, at least 10x12 inches. Some prefer planting 12 inches each way when grow- ing for single blooms, the plants being rooted in April, and pinched back twice, giving in this way three or four individual flowers and stems to a plant. The same objection is met in this method as when they are grown for sprays, the crooked stem lessens their value. Exhibition flowers, or such as it is desired to keep a week or more, should be cut just before they are fully developed, placed in water immediately, and set on a cool, light cellar bottom. Each morning the water should be changed and the stems freshened by cutting a thin slice from the ends. It does not properly come within the province of this work, to treat of growing pot plants for exhibition pur- poses, but it may not be amiss to speak of growing sin- gle flowers in small pots, as some may desire to grow a few in this way, who cannot devote a house to them. The cuttings should be made the last of June. Par- ticular care should be taken to see that each pot has a good sized hole for drainage. When they need a shift, they should be changed from a two inch to a four inch pot and matured in that size. As soon as they need it, supply them with a neat stake of sufficient length to confine the plant to as it grows. Great care must be taken not to let them become dry in the least. On hot or windy days, examine them every hour. Keep them CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 185 . inside through the entire season, encouraging them by every possible means to make as rapid a growth as iscon- sistent with sturdy vigor. Use weak liquid manure water every day. Keep all laterals removed, and just as the buds begin to show, strew a liberal sprinkling of flour of bone on the sand on which they stand. As soon as the bud that is to remain is selected, and the others are removed, handle and size them, giving to each plant three inches of space each way, and place them where they are to remain without being disturbed again until the flower is perfected. It will be but a few days before the roots will go through the bottom of the pot and spread out like a fan in search of the bone. This will cause the plants to produce flowers of enormous size compared with the amount of pot room given to the roots, and when placed where the size of the pot and bloom can be compared, beholders are filled with wonder and amazement at the result. Of course they are in blissful ignorance as to the cause, but that does not warrant any one in saying it isa trick. There are no tricks in our business. They were all appropriated by the trades which preceded us. If it is desired to exhibit any of these in pots, the roots should be severed that are outside of them, and in doing this no harm will result to the blooms if they have matured, and if they are kept liberally supplied with water. Changes are taking place yearly through the intro- 186 How to Grow Cut FLowers. duction of new seedlings, some of which prove supe- rior to existing varieties of the same shade. For this reason no list can be given which can be expected to stand intact for many years, but the following are some of those best adapted to growing for cut flowers, and the future will have to produce a more perfect list, before these will be supplanted : Joseph H. White, Ivory, Minnie Wanamaker, Flora Hill, Niveus, for white. For yellow, H. E. Wiedner, Golden Wedding, W. H. Lincoln. Pink—Vivian Morel, Mermaid, Ada Spalding. The chrysanthemum has always been considered as healthy and rugged as a weed, but experiences of the past year prove that this plant also is liable to disease. Eel worms have been found in the roots in sections where they have infested the rose. If there is any indication of their being present in either the soil or manure used for chrysanthemums, the same meas- ures of prevention should be adopted as described for the treatment of soil used for roses. In the fall of 1892, a new fungoid disease attacked a bed of chrysanthemums that were being grown for cut flowers. The plants were in a vigorous state of growth at the time, and the gentleman under whose care they were, states that they were treated with the usual fun- gicides but without avail. Mr. Dearness thus describes the disease : “The fungus can be easily recognized by the dark CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 187 blotches, usually about half to three-quarters of in inch in diameter. In these blotches are found the spore heaps or pits and beyond them the leaf turns yellow; not long afterwards the whole leaf shrivels and is drawn downward to the stem. “ As the hyphe of this fungus grow through the tis- sue of the leaf it cannot be easily reached by external applications. Doubtless the best course is to burn the affected leaves or destroy the plant as soon as the dis- ease is observed.” Another grower of the chrysanthemum tells me he observed the same disease on some imported plants at about the same time as those just described. These he removed at once and burned them. Evidently this was accomplished before the spores had time to ripen and spread, as he saw no indications of the disease aft erwards. The experience of these two growers shows us conclusively, that we cannot be too watchful, and that great care must be taken if the disease is once dis- covered, to stamp it out immediately. The black aphis so troublesome to the chrysanthe- mum is more tenacious of life than the common green fly. If the usual fumigation does not destroy it, the plants should be syringed with a strong decoction of tobacco water. 188 How to Grow Cut Flowers. CHAPTER XXXY. VIOLETS. The amount of capital invested in the production of the violet, while seemingly small, is in the aggregate a large sum. True, the greater part of it is represented by labor, but in some states and localities much time is devoted to its cultivation. In its native home the win- ters are mild, and here it is found at its best in a night temperature of from forty-five to fifty. Any attempt towards forcing this sweet scented flower through the application of heat, immediately defeats the object sought, and natural changes of temperature that come with the advent of spring, tend to gradually lessen the formation of buds, and at the same time encourage in their place an output of new foliage as the temperature incident to the change is raised. Since the advent a few years since of the disease which has proved so de- structive in some localities, much discussion has arisen in relation to the propagation and growth of the plants, some Claiming their vitality was lessened, and their lia- bility to disease increased, by a division of the parent stool at the expiration of the flowering season. How- ever this may be, it is the system 1 have always prac- ticed, and I have never been troubled with the disease. This leads me to the belief that the disease is commnu- nicated rather than produced, and that if none has ever appeared, and no interchange of plants brings it on the place, it is immaterial whether the new plants are made VIOLETS. 189 in September from cuttings, or by a division of both the old and new growth in spring. In either case the young plants should be potted and kept cool until the ground can be worked in early spring, when they should be planted. The soil should be in a good state of cul- tivation, and if that removed from the rose houses is spread one or two inches deep and worked into the beds where violets are to be planted, it will be beneficial to them. The distance at which they should be planted depends upon the amount of land at one’s disposal, and the mode of cultivation it is desired to adopt. If fora wheel hoe, fourteen inches each way will be sufficient; if by a horse cultivator, eight inches in the row by three feet between. All runners should be removed during the season of growth, but discrimination must be made be- tween thin runners and the formation of new crowns, and by September there should be from four to eight of these bud producers surrounding the original plant. Many living south of the snow line prefer to flower them in frames, chiefly because the preparation for doing so can be made at less expense, but in all parts of the north the great inconvenience attending their protec- tion from frost in frames, the regulation of temperature, as well as largely increased labors through heavy falls of snow, render house cultivation the more desirable method. Houses ten feet wide facing the south, with roof of equal span, and a walk in the centre, are much used. This form of building depends upon location. 190 How to Grow Cur FLowers. The farther north we go, the more desirable it is to bring the plants as near the glass as possible. Where a wall of suitable height is available, a “lean to” can be added that will accomplish the end sought, but the or- dinary south walls of houses built for other purposes are so low, the roof for an addition of this kind must necessarily be rather flat, and head room obtained by excavating a path along the wall is not desirable. Both of these methods are open to objections and are unsat- isfactory. . SS vas ae a He | Fig. 38. If the room can be utilized, an excellent plan is to build an equal span roof twelve feet wide, using the north part for propagating and the south bench for vio- lets. (See Fig. 38.) In this case it will be found ad- vantageous to support each roof with purlins and posts made of one inch gas pipe, in order to use as little wood VIOLETS. 191 and as much glass as possible. Winter propagation will also be facilitated by the use of twenty inches or more of glass in the partition wall through the centre of the house, and if permanent sunlight is not wanted through this, it can easily be excluded by a light coat of white paint, serving all the purpose of ground glass. For the north roof, continuous ventilation formed by sash wide enough to receive a twenty inch glass will be sufficient, and this should be protected by a cap projecting from the ridge to exclude gusts of air. The south one should also be continuous, and both should open at the top. In addition to this, if the part of the roof over the south bench is made of movable sash, and the joints between them capped by half-round battens, every other sash, or as many as may be desired, can be so constructed as to add to the ventilation on warm days by simply sliding them down the distance wanted. To do this the upright side of the gutter must be dispensed with. If it is de- sired, the sash on the south roof can be removed in the spring, the soil taken out, and the bench supplied with new soil and young plants,which can be grown where they are to remain for the winter. This presents many advan- tages, not the least of which is the avoidance of all dan- ger from the blasting of the buds by removal in the fall. If plants are grown in the field during summer, the benches should be provided with rich loamy soil, to which it is best to remove the plants before severe frosts prevail. By this time, if the plants have been carefully 192 How to Grow Cut FLowErs. attended to through the summer, the crowns should be full of buds. To avoid injury to these, after cleaning of all dead leaves and runners, they should be lifted with as much adhering dirt as will save the fibrous roots, and planted in soil sufficiently deep to cover the balls of earth, watered and shaded for a few days until root action commences. A convenient form of shading is by the use of cloth manufactured for the purpose. Fastened to light frames, this can also be used for cov- ering them with at night until time to put on the sash permanently. From the time it is necessary to put on the sash in the fall, until the plants are through flower- ing in the spring, they need constant care. Do not think because they flourish in a ceol atmosphere that heat can be shut off two-thirds of the time and that this is all that they need. Ventilation must be attended to almost as thoroughly as for roses, giving all the air con- sistent with the outside temperature on bright sunny days, less on cloudy days, but enough to keep the house at from sixty to sixty-five, with a night temperature of from forty-five to forty-eight. They should be cleaned of runners as fast as they appear, as well as leaves which have passed their usefulness. In case there should be an excess of foliage, some of it should be thinned out. Some growers claim the foliage should be seldom if ever wet, believing it has a tendency to spread disease if any is present, but spider must be kept in check, and enough water should be applied to accomplish this. VIOLETS. 193 For several years the violet has been a prey to two forms of disease which have nearly exterminated it in some sections. One of these is caused by the same worm which is making so much trouble aniong roses in some sections. Violet root galls (See Fig. 39), Dr. Halstead tells us, are identical with the lobes found in rose roots. It would be well to adopt the same precautionary measures for violets as were recommended for roses when nematoids are present in the soil. Carefully examine the roots when the plants are lifted in the field, and reject all that show any indication of their presence. The other form of disease, known to growers as leaf spot, is due to a fungus, so says the same au- thority. Of these, many forms exist, and several may be ~ Fig. 39. present on the plant at the same time. Much has been written in relation to this disease dur- 194 How to Grow Cur FLowers. ing the past three years, both as to cause and remedy. As very few writers agree as to the one producing cause of this trouble, it is reasonable to suppose that several combined may have a direct bearing in the production of this particular form of disease, to which the violet seems to be peculiarly susceptible. Among the various causes assigned are the following: Impaired vitality, springing from the plants being grown in too high a temperature, and propagated while in that condition ; an exhaustion, through long years of cultivation, of properties in the soil essential to their growth; extreme atmospheric changes, and the presence of either water or dew on the foliage during the summer. One large grower plants in frames, where they are to remain summer and winter, carefully protecting the plants from dew in the fall by means of canvass shutters. Another plants in the same way, but prevents any water from touching the foliage by means of raised and shaded sash placed two feet over them. In this instance water is applied between the rows as is needed, and spider kept at bay by an occasional syringing in the evening with water in which a small quantity of soap has been boiled, the temperature of the water when applied not being less than 100°. The same method is pursued in winter, save that while the plants are in flower the soap is omitted, and the syringing necessary to keep spider at bay is made with clear water of the same temperature, 100°. MIGNONETTE. 195 No remedy has yet been found that. will entirely cure this disease when once it takes possession. Air slacked lime is used by some as a preventive, both plants and soil being dusted with it. Mr. Richard Donovan, a successful grower of the violet near Chicago, recommends the use of the ammonia solution in the following proportions: Three oz. of the carbonate of copper dissolved in one qt. of ammonia. Use one gill to three gallons of water, and apply to the foliage by means of a syringe once a week. This will not eradi- cate the disease, but if applied as soon as any indica- tions of it are seen, it will do much towards holding it in. check. Were it not for these diseases, the flowers would be so abundant there would be no market forthem. Asit is, a scarcity is caused, and he who succeeds is reason- ably sure of being able to dispose of his crop to advan- tage. CHAPTER XXXVI. MIGNONETTE. For winter cutting, the first care is to obtain good seed. The giant varieties used for this purpose are not always reliable, and it is a much safer way for each grower to raise his own seed. after once obtaining a strain suited to his trade. 196 How to Grow Cur FLowers. When it is desired to grow this in quantity, the best success will be obtained in a span roof heuse with solid beds on either side of the walk. Continuous ventilation should be supplied in the same way as described for carnations. Good drainage should also be provided for the beds, after which from 18 to 20 inches of rich light soil should be filled in and the tops of the bed brought as near the glass as the flowers can mature without injury. Between the Ist and 15th of July sow the seed thinly in drills two inches deep and 18 inches apart. Water well after the bed has been made compact, and shade the glass until the plants are up and have made two inches of growth. They should then be thinned to twelve inches apart in the row. All the air possible should be given day and night, and as this is a season of the year in which mois- ture evaporates rapidly, the beds, even though they are solid, must be closely watched while the seed is germinating, and watered enough to prevent any dry spots from appearing. When the plants begin to push out their leaves, the shading should all be removed and pains taken to keep the glass clear. If butterflies appear, dust the plants with slug shot once or twice a week. It will not harm the plants and will effectually rid the house of the butterfly. As with chrysanthemums, if fine spikes of bloom are wanted, all‘laterals must be removed and the strength of the plant thrown into the flowering shoot. The house MIGNONETTE. 197 should be kept as cool as possible the first six weeks, and with the approach of cold weather a night tem- perature not to exceed 45° should be the standard. Should the thermometer fall to 40° occasionally, the effect will be to strengthen the bloom stems. All the air necessary to maintain a temperature of from 55° to 65° by day should be given. As this plant is also subject to fungoid disease, it is well to adopt precautionary measures. As a rule, it will be found to be better to apply the water necessary to be used during winter to the soil direct, refraining from the use of cold water on the foliage as much as possible. The particular form of fungus to which mignonette is liable, Prof. Seymour tells us, is very contagious, spreading from plant to plant with great rapidity. Its appearance is that of wilted or dried spots on the leaves, and oftentimes the whole leaf is destroyed by it. Upon the first signs of its appearance, syringing should be resorted to, using the same formula as given for violets on page 195, and though it may not in all cases prevent its increase, it is as yet the best known agent in that direction. 198 How to Grow Cut FLoweErs. CHAPTER XXXVII. THE FORCING OF BULBS. So many of our American growers are of foreign par- entage, if not themselves born and reared where all that pertains to the care and culture of bulbous stock is very familiar, it may seem to them like a waste of space to treat of-a subject so generally understood. It must be remembered that with the rapid development of this country, many men are led every year to take up our, industry without having had enough special training for_ it. Tosuch, this chapter will contain as much of interest, probably, as any that have preceded it, and if they are desirous of learning, it will be equally beneficial. to them. Whatever bulbs are used for this purpose, it will be to the interest of the grower to purchase none but the best. Narcissus, Roman hyacinths and tulips are available during August and September. It is much more convenient to plant these in boxes than in pots. The boxes should be made three inches deep and of asize to economize bench room in the house where they are to mature. Narcissus and white Romans should be planted about two inches apart, but tulips may be nearer together. In the northern states it is very convenient to have a cold house where they may be stored until the roots are well grown and the bulbs wanted for ma- turing their flowers. If this is not to be had, water well after planting, and place the boxes on well drained THE Forcine oF BuLBs. 199 ground, arranging and labeling them so the kinds wanted for early flowering may be readily found. Cover the boxes with about three inches of soil, and as cold weather approaches give a covering that will exclude frost, as it is anything but pleasant work to take them out when frozen in one mass. Tulips and Romans will not be injured by light freezing, but narcissus are more tender and will not endure it. Of those mentioned Paper White narcissus are the earliest, and if planted in August they may be brought into flower in Novem- ber. Ifa succession of flower is desired, bring in the number of boxes wanted every two weeks, planting and setting away others to take their places, but these should have four weeks at least in which to make root, before being placed in heat. Von Siun needs the same treat- ment, but no attempt should be made to bring it into flower before the middle or last of January. Both these and White Romans should be given an inside tem- perature of from 65° to 70°. Tulips should all be planted when received and en- couraged to make all the root growth they will. If planted early, those varieties which are the first to bloom can be brought inside soon after the middle of November and matured in a temperature of from 65° to 75°. In order to draw the stems, some growers place them over the pipes under the bench and curtain the front of the bench to exclude a portion of the light. Care must be taken in this case to give them plenty of 200 How to Grow Cut FLowers. water. Others grow on the benches in a temperature of 75° to 80°, and cover the under side of the glass with cheese cloth. This also tends to lengthen the stem. The great thing to be assured of is, that all varieties are well rooted. This accomplished, succeeding steps are.easy. Freesias should be boxed every three or four weeks, allowed to root well in a cool room or pit, and brought inas wanted. They require about the same tempera- ture as described for Narcissus, and can be brought to bloom-in from 12 to 14 weeks after they are rooted. Unlike the bulbs just described, lily of the valley cannot be obtained before November, and pips from the new crop can rarely be forced with satisfactory re- sults for Christmas. For this reason a few large growers . have built refrigerators in which to store them for use until wanted. Those stored in this way are used through the following fall and early winter, the new crop being used only for late winter and spring flower- ing. When the lily of the valley arrives it should all be heeled away in sand or soil under some kind of a roof, so that rains shall not drench it. The sand in which the roots are packed should be moist, and about two inches should be placed between each row of bunches. When all are in or the frame is full, cover two inches deep with sand which is not as moist as that used for THE Forcine or Buss. 201 the roots. This will protect the flower buds from the direct action of frosts, while the sand below will keep them plump. For convenience, the bench in which they are forced should not be over two feet wide, and if enough are Fig. 40. handled to be able to devote a house to them it can be arranged as seen in Fig. 40. The sides of the bench should be sealed up, doors being provided at the same time for the escape of heat when it is not all wanted 202 How ro Grow Cut FLowers. beneath the bench. Cloth screens should also be hinged that may be either used on the under side of the glass, or as a cover for the beds as desired. Before putting the pips in the forcing house, trim the roots so they will more readily absorb water. They need not be left more than two inches long. Plant them in the sand in rows, letting the rows be from two to three inches apart according to the amount of foliage they will make. The sand in which they are planted should indicate from 80° to 85°, and the top tempera- ture 65°. Use water liberally and let it be of the same temperature as the house. After the bells are formed, water must be given between the rows, as the bloom is very easily injured if water comes in contact with it. Matured flowers may be kept several days by freshly cutting the ends of the stems, changing the water, and keeping them in a cool place. The forcing of lilies has increased rapidly during the past few years. With some growers, near our large cities, these constitute the main crop for Easter. Mr. James Dean, an extensive grower of lilies, thus gives his method of preparing them for Easter : “Fully three-quarters of all the lilies that are now forced are Harrisii, which is a great deal more profitable to grow, as it flowers more freely than the Longiflorum, and the plants are not liable to come blind. It can be forced with safety at a higher temperature than the Longiflorum, and if the plants are removed to a tem- THE Forcine or Buss. 203 perature of 50 degrees at night and given air during the day two weeks before the flowers open, they will be just as firm as the Longiflorum and you will be able to cut nearly double the number of flowers. Most of the lily bulbs come from Bermuda, arriving here during the months of July and August. On the receipt of the bulbs they are potted in a light, sandy loam to which has been added about one-third of well rotted manure, using a 54 and 6 inch pot for the 5 to 7 inch bulbs; a 64 and 7 inch pot for the 7 to 9 inch bulbs; and a 7 and 8 inch pot for the 9 to 12 inch bulbs. In potting the bulb we place it about one inch below the surface of soil. They are then set close together in a frame out of doors, given a good watering and covered with a mulch of hay or straw which prevents the soil from drying out so rapidly and saves watering. They can re- main out of doors until frost comes, although a degree or two of frost will not injure the plants. From the time they are brought into the greenhouse until New Years, a night temperature of 40° to 45° with plenty of air during the day is all they require. After New Years they may be removed to another house or the night temperature increased to 60° or 65° and even to 70° if the weather proves bad and there is little sunshine. Try to have the flower buds well above the foliage six weeks before Easter, so that stand- ing in the door way of the greenhouse you can plainly see all the buds; bearing constantly in mind that it is 204 How to Grow Cut FLowers. a great deal easier to hold the flowers back by shading and giving plenty of air, which hardens and stiffens them and enables them to bear transportation better, than when you are compelled to hurry them into flower by steaming the pipes, and watering them with warm water. Under such treatment they are fit only for the rubbish heap.” When lilies are wanted for earlier bloom, they may be brought inside whenever they are well rooted in the pots. They should be given a temperature of 50° for the first few days, gradually increasing it to 65° or 70°, lowering it again for a week to 55° after the flowers are matured in order to harden them. From 10 to 12 weeks will be required from the time they are brought into heat before they will be in bloom. The greatest enemy of the lily is green fly, and these must be kept at bay from the first. Lilium candidum is but little grown of late years, but is still called for to some extent for use in work wher- ever smaller flowers than Harrisii are wanted. As these bulbs loose in vitality rapidly by exposure to the air, it is better to use home grown bulbs, or if imported ones are received, to plant them for a year. As soon as their flowering season outside is over, lift such as are wanted, putting two in a 7 or 8 inch pot, using a light soil for potting them. Plunge these pots to the rim and leave outside until early in November, when they may be brought into a temperature of 50°, gradu- THE Forcine or Burns. 205 ally raising it to 60°, and flowers may in this way be obtained in from 12 to 14 weeks. Give plenty of water during the period of growth, adding liquid manure as they seem to need it. The calla lily is a bulb that needs rest, and it will give more flowers when grown in pots. Planted on benches it is inclined to make too much foliage. After the flowering season is past, or as early as the first of July, take them to the shade of some building and lay the pots on their side for the first week, giving them a light sprinkling once a day. After this, turn the pots every other day for two weeks. By the middle of August they should be shaken out, trimmed, repotted, watered well and plunged in a partially shaded place. Give them one shift, letting the size of the pot be pro- portioned to the size and age of the bulb, and bring them into the house before there is any danger of frost. . From the time the pots are filled with roots, they should never be allowed to become dry. Place the pots in saucers and see that these are always supplied with water. Ammonia used in the water is beneficial to them, also weak liquid manure. If it is desired to mature a crop of blooms quickly, it may be accom- plished by giving them water each day for a short time as hot as can be borne by the hand. Water that is ap- plied directly to the roots, should always be warmer than the temperature of the house. This should not be less than 65°. 206 How to Grow Cut FLowenrs. CHAPTER XXXVIILI. ‘ ORCHIDS. So much might be written on this subject I hesitate to commence, lest no stopping place be found before the limited amount of space that can be accorded te it in these pages shall be exhausted. Orchids fill so large a place in the world of flowers to-day, and have come to be so much of a necessity in some localities— notably those occupied by people of wealth—that our list of winter cut flowers would seem incomplete with- out some mention of them. We will therefore consider them very briefly and with reference to the wants of the retail grower and amateur rather than to those of the wholesaler. For extensive commercial growing, per- haps more than any other family do these need to be made a specialty. To be grown on a large scale, requires first, a large capital. Second, it is necessary that a person should have received a practical training in all that pertains to their cultivation. The demand for this class of flowers is of such recent date many growers who are ex- pert in the cultivation of other kinds of plants, would tind themselves somewhat at sea were they to undertake the culture of Orchids on a scale at par with the lines they are already accustomed to. Again, from the very nature of things, the price of these flowers must be high for years to come, and as a consequence will be beyond the reach of many who buy liberally of other kinds. ORCHIDS. 207 Specialists in this line who already have large stocks of plants from which to produce the flowers, will proba- bly be able to meet transient demands for sometime to come. To the retailer, however, who grows a part or all of his own flowers, there exists a necessity for being able to supply the wants of his customers if he would keep pace with his competitors in business. To accomplish this in the best way is the object we have under con- sideration. If you have a home trade, and it is of a nature that demands a good line of decorative plants, you can grow a few Orchids with both pleasure and profit to yourself, as well as pleasure, if not profit, to your cus- tomers. It may take a little time to educate people to their use, but you will find it to be a great advertising medium, and if the public is invited on some special day to inspect your display which has been carefully arranged for the purpose, you will undoubtedly find that you will be more than compensated in other ways even if no sales of Orchids are made at first. The varieties of Orchids profitable to the retail grow- er thrive well in the same temperature, shade and moisture as are given to palms, and decorative plants of like nature. They may also be suspended or hung upon posts in various places in the house that would not otherwise be occupied. Thus the cost of housing practically amounts to very little. 208 How to Grow Cur FLowers. Open wooden baskets for growing them, or pots made for the purpose, are preferable to charred wood or wooden blocks. Fill the basket with fern roots and live sphagnum moss, after providing an abundance of broken crockery and charcoal for drainage. Fasten the plant securely to the top of the basket or pot with wire and assign it to its place in the house. Cypripedium insigne is one of the most common Or- chids in cultivation, and of exceedingly easy culture; it commences to bloom in November and continues until March. ‘ Of the many Cattleyas, Percivilliana is the earliest, commencing to bloom in the fall and continuing nearly to Christmas. This is followed by C. Trianz, which should be in flower during the period cut flowers are most in demand, from January to April. C. Mossiz blooms through the spring until the ap- pearance of warm weather. With these four varieties a succession of flowers may be obtained extending through the months during which the sale of cut flowers is most profitable. This small list is the most suitable for a beginner, be he florist or amateur. Other varieties can be added from time to time as desired, but those mentioned wilt will be found to give a succession of bloom, and should constitute the bulk of a stock kept for flowering. In watering, the same principle should be observed with Orchids as with other plants. During the period CLEANLINESS. 209 of rest, which commences after the growth is com- pleted, and the new flowering bulb has been formed, water should be. withheld from them, the moisture ex- isting in a palm-house being sufficient to keep them in good condition. Let them have only as much water as is needed to keep the bulbs plump, increasing the amount with their growth, and providing an abund- ance when the roots are most active. CHAPTER XXXIX. MISCELLANEOUS TOPICS. CLEANLINESS. Some one has called the Carnation the “Divine Flower.” Not only this, but all flowers reflect the love of the Divine for*man, and for this reason, if no other, their claim to cleanly surroundings is supreme. But this is not the only reason, for both beauty and purity are much enhanced by the exercise of this great virtue, increasing the pleasures which form and fragrance bring to our senses, as well as the corresponding value arising from more perfect conditions of growth. The first step in this direction should be taken when the crop in any house is to be renewed. After remov- ing the old soil and repairing such parts of the bench- ing as may need it, go over the whole ground surface, sweeping thoroughly and removing any scattered soil 210 How to Grow Cur FLoWERs. or other accumulations, after which thoroughly scald the house. No place of any size can be considered com- plete without having a boiler for this purpose, nu mat- ter what the system of heating may be. Usually this boiler can be used for other purposes also,—power, tem- pering of water, or for steam circulation. The interest on two or three hundred dollars bears no comparison to the benefit derived, even if the boiler is used for this sole purpose and remains idle ten months of the year. The boiler once set can be attached to the water sys- tem, thus requiring but little expense in extra pipe, and this connection should be made with the “ blow- off” at the rear. When a house is ready for scalding * fill the boiler four-fifths full of water, heat it thoroughly, and when from forty to fifty pounds pressure is indi- cated on the steam gauge, draw the fire. Connect a hose with the hydrant to be used. Fasten to the end of this a “leader” in much the same way you would a ring in the nose of ananimal. Take the “leader” in one hand and with a thick glove the hose in the other, open the connecting valves and the head of steam will drive all the water from the boiler. With this, thoroughly scald every inch-of ground surface, the benches, walls and sides of gutters. By opening the ends of the building before commencing, a draft will be created which will obviate any inconvenience arising from the hot steam, care being taken, of course, to begin at the end at which the draft escapes from the house. Never attempt this CLEANLINESS. 211 without a “leader” with which to guide the stream of -boiling water as the pressure drives it through the hose. You might as well dance around among the folds of a living snake, or attempt to lead a refractory animal with a string. Do not ever commence, either, until the fire has been drawn from the boiler, or ruin to it will be:the result. The under sides of benches sometimes harbor vermin and are hard to reach in all parts with the stream of hot water. To make thorough work, shut.the house up tight, and burn sulphur under them. This can be done by means of the stoves spoken of for fumi- gating, or if you do not have these, red hot bricks will answer the purpose. The only care to be taken is not to have plants within reach of the sulphur fumes. Salt is very cheap, and a liberal coat of it applied after this on the ground under the benches will not only prevent weeds from springing up, but will render it almost im- possible for insects to burrow and live in the soil. After this has been done, whitewash all interior surfaces of benches and walls. Wash, if needed, and paint all roof and gutter work, and you are prepared to commence anew. This process, followed every year, is almost equal in results to those experienced with new houses, which old growers will tell you increase the probabili- ties of success by a large per cent. These conditions of cleanliness should be maintained as far as practicable throughout the season. All litter, dirt and dead leaves, as well as weeds both on and under the benches should 212 How to Grow Cur FLoweErs. be persistently removed. It is well to have a box in some convenient corner at each end of the house, in which may be placed from day to day rejected blooms, leaves and buds resulting from succoring or disbudding, instead of allowing them to be thrown on the ground or behind the benches. Have the walks swept as often as necessary, and it will be found that when these are constructed with cement and the centre raised just enough to turn the water, it will greatly facilitate the object sought. POT RACKS, In this same connection, nothing helps to litter a house more than the storing of pots under the benches, the dirt and breakage attending their constant removal back and forth being very great, nor is ita sign of thrift PREPARATION OF SOIL. 213 to see houses so incumbered. Every place, no matter how small it is, should have provision made for unused pots in some locality convenient to the potting bench, where all the sizes may be kept by themselves and be ready at hand when wanted for use. The waste frorn breakage is less, and much more time is saved each season than would build a convenient pot rack every year. (See Fig. 41.) PREPARATION OF SOIL. In this, several things are sought to be accomplished. The decomposition, as well as the preservation of the fibre, destruction of, and protection against insect ene- mies, and thethorough mingling of all ingredients added to the soil. At first thought there is a seeming inconsistency in the first two, both destruction and preservation being sought in the same thing. This is because time is re- quired to turn the sod and make it tender, but it should not be so thoroughly decomposed as to destroy the fibre and thus allow the soil to pack too closely. AJ rose soil should contain sod and its roots. If it is a tough old blue grass sod, so much the better. The depth at which it should be taken must be regulated somewhat by the time elapsing before needed for use, as well as by the amount of land available. The ideal soil pile is com- posed of sods cut two inches deep and allowed to re- main in the pile several months before being used. It 214 How to Grow Cur FLOWERS. should also be frozen in all sections possible to do it, in order to destroy worms and insects usually found in grass lands. Some recommend cutting and storing in seasons of extreme drought, claiming that in this con- dition no insect life will be found to exist. This I have never proved, but can recommend early winter frosts. If the sod is tough it can be so plowed as to stand partially on edge, and in this condition the first cold spell will freeze it thoroughly, after which it can be brought together in a pile, whatever is to be mixed with it added, and the whole be ready for turning early in the spring. This cannot always be accom- plished in this way even in frosty sections, but some means should be devised for its accomplishment, and if no other offers, the labor entailed in the plan outlined on page 105 is to be preferred to using soil that has not been thus renovated. There are but few roses that will not be benefited by an addition to the soil of at least one-fifth manure—some use as much as one-third. In either case, especially in that of the larger amount, it must have been so well composted when added to the soil, as to have nearly disappeared when the soil is ready for use, or to have become so. thoroughly incorporated as to be nearly indistin- guishable. If green manure is all that can be had, not more than one yard, to seven of sod should be used, in which case more dependence will have to be had on the various modes of top dressing as the plants re- FERTILIZERS. 215 quire it. Whatever manure is used, it should be ap- plied in layers as the pile is formed, and when turned, the pile should be cut through in narrow strips from top to bottom and well mixed. Piles put up late in the fall will require early and close attention in order to have them in readiness for the first planting. If more time elapses, turning need not be as frequent. In case sufficient fibre is not present in the soil when gathered, layers of straw through the pile and imcer- porated with it will be of benefit, though it will not take the place of good grass sod. FERTILIZERS. For mixing with the soil, nothing equals grain fed cow manure. Avoid distillery products as you would poison, for slops from these stalls are as fatal to plant life as is the so-called refined product to man. The writer has proved both and knows whereof he speaks. Keep at least two years stock of manure ‘on hand—three if you can. This should always be kept under cover, as exposure to storms greatly lessens its value. To prevent the May beetle from depositing her eggs, from which the white grub is hatched, turn the compost piles in April, smooth down the surface and cover two inches deep with plain soil, or that in which there is no manure, and she will seek a more con- genial atmosphere elsewhere. Of commercial fertil- izers, none are so valuable for all crops as pure ftour 216 How to Grow Cur FLowers. of bone, but be sure u is pure. Some years since the writer lost $2,000 worth of new roses through the use of bone which had been cut with acids. The manu- facturer’s purse being the longer, discretion counseled bearing the loss in silence, which was done. - This ex- perience leads me to emphasize the advice given, that you know absolutely that the article you are using is pure. With a change of manufacturers I have since found no trouble, and have used it freely every season. This is a matter of so much importance to all growers that I cannot do less than to say the article last referred to is obtained of the Cincinnati Dessicating Co. For field carnations unleached ashes sown broadcast and worked into the soil are very beneficial, they are also good as a top dressing on benches when used in small quantities. It will be remembered the color of To- ronto grown Woottons was referred to in the cultural notes on that variety. Since those notes were written, I have been told by one in whom I have every confi- dence, and who is in a position to know, that the ex- traordinary size and color produced by our Canadian growers in this particular variety was the result of a liberal use of unleached hard wood ashes. No oppor- tunity has been had to test this personally since learn- ing of it, and I would say to those disposed to try it, do so carefully until it proves to do for you as itis claimed to do for others. That ashes are good for al- most any field crop is a well known fact, but without FERTILIZERS. 217 having given them any very practical test on the rose, Thad formed the opinion there were other fertilizers that were better. Nitrate of soda has already been re- ferred to, and it only remains to say in addition, if used at all, let it be with the greatest care. Only a few days since, in visiting a florist in another city, I was sur- prised to see the condition of his roses, as he has the reputation of being a good grower. Enquiring the reason, he told me it was through the use of the article in question. Careful man as he is, he had, unwittingly, used enough to burn the surface roots. Action was destroyed, water had to be withheld, and the plants allowed to go dormant for a time, and this during the three months when flowers are in the greatest demand. While exceedingly sorry for his loss, many of us have been in the same position, not from just such a cause, perhaps, but through over-confidence in what we were trying, either as an experiment of our own, or acting on the advice of others. Another argument for conduct- ing experiments on a small scale. The application of aqua ammonia to the roots of plants, has also been referred to. For roses it is some- times beneficial when used on the foliage, but I would not advise it, unless from some cause they need a quick stimulant late in the season, and then only on plants that are to be rejected at its close. No doubt many of these more powerful liquids stimulate a plant to greater exertion for a short time, but as a rule it is safer to con- 218 How to Grow Cur FLowers. fine stimulants to such as seem to be the natural food. of all plants. If your soil has been properly prepared. they will find in it all the food they can assimilate for the first two months. When the last mulching seems exhausted, liquids may be applied with beneficial re-- sults if abundant root action is present to absorb it, but it should not be given too strong, or when the soil. is dry. If it is found desirable to use liquid food to any extent, use it lightly once or twice a week as the state of the soil demands, and change the ingredients. from time to time. A peck of fresh cow manure after remaining twenty-four hours in a barrel of water will be as strong as should be used. Alternate with the same quantity of sheep manure prepared in the same way, and that with half the quantity from the poultry yard. This in turn may be changed for one-half pint of aqua ammonia in a barrel of water, after which commence with the first if more is needed. Liquids should never be applied to a dry soil. Ifthe bed has for any reason become dry, or dry in spots, go over it first with clear water giving the larger portion of what. is needed in this way, following with the liquid to be applied. Experience and watchfulness alone can reg- ulate the amount and frequency of the applications. Horn shavings are used by some, both in the soil and by letting them stand in water a few days and then using the liquid. JI also know of some who will not use them the second time, having had all the ex- FERTILIZERS. 219 perience they desire in that line already. While some have used them successfully, they are dangerous and should be avoided. Beware of trying new things on a large scale, before prov- ing them for yourself. This has not reference so much to plants as to methods of building, food given to plants, or any treatment not in accord with past expe- rience or good common sense. Experimenting is one of the ways by which we learn, but it should be con- ducted on a small scale until proved to be both useful and reliable. The instance recently cited of the loss that attended the use of nitrate of soda, is only one of the many where great loss has occurred through using certain things largely on the recommendation of others. $5,000 would not compensate the man of my acquaint- ance who risked his crop in the season of ’92 on horn shavings. Opportunities for success coming with each year, if lost, never come again; a whole year’s work is blotted out. Worse than that, there is danger that the savings of years of toil may go with it. Some years ago an acquaintance conceived the idea that his hot water pipes needed a preservative, so during the early fall he gave them a coat of coal tar. A more senseless thing was never thought of, and still we occasionally hear of a case of this kind, and they are always at- tended with the same results, a total loss of the crop for the season. It is to be hoped the next generation will be wiser. 220 How to Grow Cut FLowers. A more recent error—for mistake I believe it to be— is the use of soil for any purpose but field work, that has been used in the houses one season. Rejected rose soil is rich in unspent food, and will bear abundant crops in the field where it can be fully exposed to sun-' shine and air, but I have never seen good results from its use for any crop the second year, indoors. When used for potting, as it sometimes is, instead of great white feeding roots being thrown out, they are often small and wiry, and plants are not apt to flourish in it. As I write the case of two growers comes to my mind who are lamenting the fact that they persuaded them- selves the past season to plant their carnations in spent rose soil, an experiment they will not try again, as it has lessened the production by at least one- third. Considerable has been written in relation to this matter of late by growers having a soil composed largely of mica. This soil seems to be well adapted to the growth of the carnation, cultivators telling us but little manure can be used with it, and while those in possession of soil of this nature may be able to use the same more than one year, the rule does not hold good with soils that must be heavily fertilized. The writer dried out.a pile of rejected rose soil the past season, thinking thus to sweeten and counteract any sourness there might be in it, and used it for carnations. The result is not satisfactory, leading to the conclusion that the best is none too good for artificial growth. For all CrubDE OIL. 221 flowering plants use nothing but new, fresh, sweet soi. Make it rich with all the food the plants will assimi- late, but let the basis of it each and every year, be virgin sod fresh from the field. CRUDE OIL. The use of this as a preservative is advocated by many, while others are emphatic and decided in their belief that it is injurious. The writer once washed with it some new boards used in a partition wall. The bench near them was afterwards planted to Duchess of Albany, time enough having elapsed for the oil to become perfectly dry and all scent to evaporate. The result was, these plants rusted badly, while others, from the same lot, planted on another bench, in the same kind of soil, all the conditions in fact being the same save in the use of the oil, remained perfectly healthy. No form of plant life seems to have any affinity for this product when brought in contact with it in any quan- tity, and it seems reasonable to suppose small quantities are proportionately injurious, though it may scarcely be perceptible. I would much rather chance a bed covered with decomposed hops than coal oil, whether for the growth of carnations or roses, and even if the result required a renewal of the lumber one-third sooner in the former case, I believe that the increased product would more than compensate for its early decay. Itis best to keep on the safe side of all things about which 222, How to Grow Cur FLoweErs. cultivators disagree. We oftentimes see roots growing in the decayed tissues of the bench when the soil is re- moved, but I do not believe that any one ever saw the same where the bench had been washed with crude oil the fall before. Lime we know is a preservative in a small degree, besides being food for plants. If any part.of a-building is benefited by the use of oil without injury to a crop, it is the posts which form the walls, but an exterior coat is claimed by some to be injurious to the timber if applied while the sap is present in the wood. If the posts are seasoned and placed in a vat and the pores allowed to fill with the oil, there can be little doubt but what the life of the timber is greatly lengthened. Another preservative of wood is cement, some claim- ing the life of a bench is twice as long when washed with this yearly. However this may be, from the na- ture of the material it seems safe, and is to be com- mended on that account, if it is desired to use any- thing ‘but lime for this purpose. RESTORING LOST VITALITY TO ROSES. In relation to the necessity of this, opinions vary, some Claiming that a ceaseless round of propagation and growth of our tea roses will, in the end, produce this result. The writer has never experienced any neces- sity for taking rested stock for this purpose. As usu- ally-advocated, it is a very expensive method to follow, Restoring Lost Virariry To Roszs. 223 requiring for its accomplishment two seasons of growth. The vitality of a tea rose is often impaired through the ignorance or neglect of conditions pertaining to a healthy growth, and when the plant sickens, or ceases to be profitable as a producer, it is easy to see that its vitality is impaired, but the cause is sometimes mis- stated, and should be laid at the door of the operator, instead of to the constitution of the plant. I have now in process of construction a bleck of houses for summer growing exclusively. In these-such of the winter flowering varieties as will thrive in a summer temperature will be planted, and from the dormant wood of these, after the term of flowering is over in the fall, a series of experiments will be made in order to fully test the advantage, if any, that is to be derived from a partial rest. Any grower who has stock in a condition to try this method, can easily ‘satisfy himself as to its utility, without the risk of loss or expense. The cuttings should be treated much as are those of hard wood, rooted slowly in a cool house, but after once rooted no check should ever be per- mitted to occur in their growth. DISBUDDING ROSES. During the summer it is better to let no buds ma- ture, but the practice of nipping them out as soon as they appear is to be deprecated, as it leaves a mass of eyes on unripe wood, and these tend to augment the 224 How to Grow Cur FLowErs. habit some varieties have of throwing blind wood. The better way is to let the bud partially mature or remain until its supporting stem has attained firmness and strength, then cut back one-third or one-half its length, as deemed advisable, or to a good strong eye, which in turn will quickly break and produce another strong bud-producing shoot. The strongest of the blind wood should be allowed to remain to feed the plant, until such time as its usefulness in this respect is passed, but the weak, spindling wood of this class should be removed after the plants have attained some size. This practice of disbudding should cease with the ad- vent of cool weather, or whenever the market demands the product and the plants are strong enough to ma- ture them without injury, but in most varieties the laterals should be removed in order to throw all the strength of the plant to the maturing bud. THE CARE OF BOILERS. Too much stress cannot be laid upon a careful an- nual inspection of so important a factor to success as is our heating apparatus. In relation to its care, when not in use, I do not think a better method can be recom- mended than that given a few years since in answer to this same question: The proper care of our boilers is a-very important matter, as they bear in a measure much the same relation to our business as do the foun- dations of a building to the superstructure. Let these THE CARE OF BOILERS. 225 be faulty and trouble arises. Let our boilers fail at a critical time and disaster and loss are sure to follow. But I find an answer to the question, as to. what is the best treatment to accord them during their period of rest, a difficult one to give; for like many others it is one on which doctors disagree. I have interviewed several parties, persons promi- nent either in the erection or care of these structures and find each has a theory or practice of his own. Doubtless we all have our views upon the best methods, as wellas our own ways of caring for our boilers, but lam afraid that in the majority of instances they are left to care for themselves. A. tells me to empty the boilers and let them stand dry—good advice if they can be kept so; B. says keep them full; while C. tells me to empty, take off the doors, take out the grates, carefully remove all ashes adhering to the fire-box, and see that there is a free circulation of air through the flues all the time. There are good points in each of these methods, but it must be remembered that in four cases out of five,—and I might safely say, I think, nine out of ten,—boilers are in situations damp of themselves, ana this dampness is largely increased by every rainfall, causing a continual corrosion of the ex- posed surface. My own way would be this: Leave the boilers full of water, carefully remove from and about them everything of a nature to retain moisture, thoroughly cleanse the flues, remove as far as possible 226 How To Grow Cur FLowERs. all rust or scale from the flue sheets and from all the iron accessible, and then give the whole inside surface a thorough dressing with crude or linseed oil. For an outside dressing, paint with asphaltum that has been cut with turpentine. Stop all draft so as to prevent damp air from circulating through the flues. Lastly, if your boilers are old, have them carefully inspected by a competent person, if you cannot do it yourself, as soon in the spring as they can be spared, in order that they may be in thorough repair for early fall work. MORTAR FOR FIRE BRICK. While conducting a series of experiments with clay some years since, I discovered that a mixture of com- mon clay and crude oil would endure great heat, and continue to harden under itsinfluence. For the inside lining of walls, or fire boxes that are constructed of fire brick, if the brick are laid in this mortar, the joints will be nearly as durable as the brick themselves. To make the mortar, the clay should be dry. Pul- verize it fine, and mix it with enough crude petroleum oil to bring it to the state of pliability desired, kneading and mixing it thoroughly. Use no more between the joints than is necessary to set the brick firmly. The interior of a fire box may also be temporarily repaired with this mortar, when burned out in places, by filling the vacancies with it. This will oftentimes save the re- To Stop «a Leak. 2207 building of the wall until such time as it can be con- veniently performed. TO STOP A LEAK. Leaks in heating pipes sometimes occur at a time when fires cannot be dispensed with long enough to repair them permanently. If these leaks are found to be caused by a flaw in the pipe, or by an opening seam, they can be controlled temporarily in the following manner: Mix fine sand with white lead until it is of the consistency of putty ; spread this half an inch thick on astrip of canvas, long and wide enough to cover the rent; if possible shut off the pressure of steam, or flow of water; apply the cement and canvas to the pipe, and’ bind it securely with a canvas bandage. When this is accomplished take some strong cord, commence at one end winding tight and close, until the whole surface is firmly covered with the cord. Great damage can often be prevented in this way, especially when cast iron pipe fails at a season of the year at which permanent repairs are impossible. Should a seam open in a steam pipe which is re- quired to resist several pounds of pressure, and at a time when permanent repairs cannot be made, split a piece of rubber hose and lay it over the seam. Cover this with a semi-circular piece of iron that will fit the pipe closely. Fasten all to the pipe by means of clamps similar to those used to fasten wood work to the axle- 228 How to Grow Cur FLowers, tree of a buggy. If one is living at a distance from where these materials can be quickly obtained, it will be prudent to have a few on hand before the commence- ment of cold weather. The following advertisements have the endorsement of the author of this book. First, because he has had occasion to prove their worth in his own business. Second, because a personal acquaintance with the men and firms they represent, has satisfied him they are men worthy of the confidence of all tradesmen. YS GUARANTEED OK .. PURE.. BONE FLOUR Manufactur spline a for the special u AND GREENHOUSE MEN POSITIVELY FREE FROM SULPHURIC ACID. Prices and samples furnished on application to CINCINNATI DESICCATING CO. Wo. 851 West Sixth St. CINCINNATI, OHIO. Greenhouse Construction Lumber. We mole SHORT SPAN TO THE SOUTH. ath acl THREE QUARTER SPAN. ‘ rll \ l (Ey (=) AL. co oo GABLE ROOF. See opposite page. A oe oe oe Oe oe oe oe Ok ee ee ee ee ee ee ee re or] John &. Moninger, SuCCESSOR_TO JOHN L. Diez & Co. MANUFACTURER OF se [ypress i= Building Greenhouses, Rosehouses and Gonservatories. Orrice ano Factory, 297 to 307 HAWTHORN AVE. CHICAGO, ILLINOIS Catalogue on Application. A'N ‘Hospnyj-u0-10,3urAdy “05 WVHNaNg ¥ aXo'T “SNDOIVLYS GALVULSNTH aO0d ADVLSOd SLNID anos ands | MDT 8, po, Hd 9) 2D pqiyxgy .t 0 UW id 0 {0 nar, “SYdANIDNa ddy uo peysraany DNILVAH YALVM LOH GNY WVvd JEWISH PUY suLT ‘SdopIINg 23 sDoYOI1y [eany[Ndy10;4 “OO WVHN&Ng ¥ Gao7 THE FAULTLESS FURMAN STEAM AND HOT WATER BOILERS For GREENHOUSE HEATING. sie . a Used in : Sa RUNAC . Green- * Popo Heating houses Wi os the LES pu of the cane World's Principal Fair Agricul- ral : i Green- Colleges | ate houses. =SS Wey uh i 3 = ECONOMICAL, SUBSTANTIAL, SAFE. SCREW JOINTS Hence no leakage. Vertical Circulation; rapid flow. Cool Smoke Pipe; Economy in Fuel. Large Fire Box; requires very little attention. Send for Our Large Catalogue and Book on ‘‘Modern Green- : house Heating’’—FREE. HERENDEEN MPF’G CO. 10 Fay St., GENEVA. N.Y. re peel es wchar: None re Na S Rae t K ee OR EE POE AT SO HESS Ra a (Cat ivi 1 eae Dx The ‘Evans 4 Improved Challenge Roller sto Bearing Ventilating This the Best! Apparatus. Why? No pull on the roof. No friction on the pipe. Self acting. Operates quicker and easier. A child can operate a 100 foot house. The only roller bearing ventilating apparatus on the market. Roller bearing is to a ventilating apparatus ‘as ball bearing is to a bicycle. Illustrated catalogue free. Address, QUAKER CITY MACHINE CO. Richmond, Indiana. @QQOOOOOOQOOOOOOS™~ EVERY WIDE-AWAKE, PROGRESSIVE »@ FLORIST ®® WHEN NEEDING CUT FLOWERS, FLOWER SEEDS, FALL BULBS, SPRING BULBS, or FLORISTS’ SUPPLIES OF ANY KIND WHATEVER TURNS FIRST TO HUNT As it is well known he keeps NEARLY EVERYTHING the trade requires. E. H. HUNT, SEEDSMAN, Z9 Lake Street. CHICAGO, ILL. METSEND FOR CATALOGUE. The. => John _— Company, 69 to 79 [ichigan Street, CHICAGO. CONTRACTORS FOR GREEN- HOUSE HEATING APPARATUS S-—S—© AND DEALERS IN —-AII Kinds of Material——- — FoR GREEN-HOUSE =:- HEATING. Write for Prices. ESTABLISHED 1854. INCORPORATED 1892. FRANK DAN, BLISH, President. WELLS B. SIZER, Vice-President. DANIEL W. BLISH, Secretary. ARTHUR HATFIELD, Treasurer. DEVINE BOILER WORKS, Steam # Hot Water Boilers SCHILLER No. 9 HOT WATER BOILER, As used in Greenhouses of M. A. Hunt and many others. Photographs on receipt of inquiry. Shops, Fifty-Sixth and Wallace Sts. OFFICE, 189 STATE ST., CHICAGO, U. S. A. ROSE: LEAF Extract of Tobacco. SURE DEATH .. to all Insects infesting Greenhouses, and a certain cure for the diseases caused by Para= site Life to FLOWERS, VEGETABLES np PLANTS. Also an Excellent FERTILIZER. For Particulars as to its use, see Page 116, this Book. Packed in 5 Gallon Cans. Price $1.50 per gallon, F.O. B. MANUFACTURED BY LOUISVILLE SPIRIT CURED TOBACCO 60. LOUISVILLE, KY., U. S. A. 22 24 26 South Fifth Street. TERRE HAUTE, IND. Printers Book Binders Blank Book Makers Floral Catalogues — a Specialty. AN