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MEMORIAL POULTRY LIBRARY

CORNELL

"aE, WV Darr

>: GIFT OF

ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY

New YorK STATE COLLEGES
OF
AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS

AT
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The original of this book is in
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THE NEW AMERICAN

POULTRY BOOK,

CONTAINING ALL THE DIFFERENT

Varieties of Fowls,
WITH COMPLETE INSTRUOTIONS.

HOW TO R4*SE POULTRY—THE BEST LAYERS, AND SITTERS=—=
THE BEST SOILS ON WHICH TO KEEP THEM—HOW TO:
WEED—MANAGEMENT OF LAYERS AND SITTERS—

POINTS. OF BEAUTY——DICTIONARY oF
POULTRY TERMS—INCUBATION—

MANAGEMENT OF THE

MOTHER—
HOW. TO REAR THE CHICKS,’ ETC.

BY
—JOHN TAGGART,—
Fellevue Poultry Farm, Richmond, Pa.

PHILADELPHIA :,
“ORAWFORD | &, co.,
“4 N. Ninth’ ‘Streets -
1888,

of . in th IpB4rby Caawvoan & Co., in the Office of the
Kutered according to 400 $ fnaren, i in. the year je M4 on : ig

CHEAPEST! POPULAR! SALEABLE
woon’s.

Illustrated Natural History

COMPRISING

Descriptions of Animals, Birds, Fishes, Reptiles,
Insects, Etc., with Sketches of their Peculiar
Habits and Characteristics,

BY THE “4

~——REV.J.G. WOOD, M. A,

Author of “ The Illustrated Natural History ‘of Man,” « mat at Home,’”
“ Homes without Hands.” Etc., Etc.

HANDSOMELY ILLUSTRATED BY 800 FINE ENGRAVINGS,

12mo. size, 423 pages, neatly bound in Fine English Cloth, with
‘superb gold and Diack stamps on side and back in’ apratiate
designs.

RETAIL PRICE, $1.00

- The above described volume has been written with the view
of presenting the requisite information, in such shape as will make
the subject attractive alike.to youth or to'the mature reader, who
‘might perhaps be deterred from a perusal of more diffuse histories.
by the prolixity of detail, or the too scientific character of the
work, Written in plain and familiar language, and divested of
most of the technicalities which are calculated rather to embartass
than to inform the general reader, this. volume is so arranged as 6
be diverting as well as instructive reading.

The text is illustrated by three hundred beautiful wood engrav-’
ings, and a well arranged Index rendersthe work complete.

CRAWFORD & CO.,.

No. 47 N. NINTH STREET,
PHILADELPIIIA, PA. ;

DOMESTIC POULTRY.

VARIETIES; THEIR CHOICE AND
MANAGEMENT.

In the choice of fowls, no inconsiderable amount of know-
ledge of the characters of the different varieties is necessary to
insure success to the bréeder. From my own experience, and.
that of the most eminent poultry-keepers, I have attempted to
jot down such information as may be found useful in the selec,
tion and management of these really useful-and elegant birds.
I shall first introduce to the reader’s notice the largest and one
of the most important breeds in our country.

THE BRAHMA FOWLS

Are divided into two classes,-the light and dark; as a rule the
dark are preferable, although either are good enough for any.
‘farm yard. They are now almost universally cultivated through
‘out America, and a most valuable variety—so hardy, so beauti- :
ful, and so excellent in all-the relations of poultry life.

The hens.are the bestof mothers, and lay fine large eggs during’
the winter. Even when the ground is covered with snow, they
lay regularly, and in fact at all times when not employed in sit-

4 ‘ BRAHMA FOWL.

ting or renewing their plumage. The pullets attain full size at
an early age, and are in their prime when eight months old.
Brahmas are doubtless the largest of all the varieties of domes-
tic fowls; some have been known to weigh seventeen pounds,
"which exceeds the weight of any other breed.

LIGHT BRAHMA, COCK AND HEN,

The dark Brahmas have steadily progressed i in favor since their
first introduction; ‘their Sigantic size; great weight, hardihood
‘and prolificacy, and the ease with which they can be kept i in
_ confined ranges, all tend to:render them much. esteemed. - ‘To
sum up their merits, as good, useful, hardy fowls, they are un-
surpassed, They are good layers of good sized eggs, good: fora-
gers and good sitters; as mothers they cannot be excelled, no
fowls being more careful not to step on their chickens, brooding.
them better, or searching more diligently for food. The chick- .
ens grow fast and are exceedingly hardy; old and young take

BRAHMA FOWL. : 5

good care of themselves, and often recover from ailments that
would carry off any of a less hardy sort. They are very good )
for the table, putting on flesh-readily; they are also small eaters.

DARK BRAHMA HEN,

DESCRIPTION OF THE DARK BRAHMA.
The head of the dark Brahma cock should have a pea comb,
that is-a triple comb; this should be small, low in front, and
firmly set in the head without falling over on either side, dis-
_ tinctly divided, 80 as to have the appearance of three small combs
joied together i in the lower part and back, the largest being in
the middle, and each part slightly and evenly serrated.
The upper part of the body is silvery white striped with black;
the breast, under Sa of body and thighs either pure black or

6 BRAHMA FOWL.

slightly mottled with white. The feathers that cover the bases
of the quill-feathers of the wings are of a lustrous green, black,
and form a broad well-marked bar across the wings. The flight-
feathers are white on the outer and black on the inner webs.- The
secondary quills have a broad, dark, green black spot atthe end
ofeach feather. The tail is black. The shank should be of a
yellow color, and well clothed with dark feathers slightly mot-,
tled with white.

Tho hens have a grey head; neck-hackle silvery white, striped
with black. The comb is the same only of a smaller size. The
remainder of the plumage should be dull white, and closely pen-
cilled with dark steel grey so as almost to cover the ground color
and reaching well up the front of the neck, The hen is not so
upright in carriage as the cock, and it is much shorter in the
legs.

LIGHT BRAHMAS.

LIGHT BRAHMA HEN,

- BRAHMA FOWL. q

In color, the light Brahmas are characterized by the general
white color-of the body, ‘breast and thighs. The neck-hackle »
should be marked with a distinct black stripo down the centre
of each feather; there is a tendency in the cock to come light or:
cloudy i in the hackle—defects which very greatly detract from
their beauty. The saddle-feathers in the cock are.white or light-

ly striped with black, those of the. hen being white. The first
ten flight-feathers are black, but the’ ‘secondary quills, which
alone are visible when the wing is closed, are white on the outer
‘web, consequently the dark color of the wing is not visible when, ;
folded. In the cock the tail is’black, the tail-coverts being beau- "
‘tifully glossed with green, the lower ones being margined with

LIGHT BRAHMA COCK.

silver, as-are the _— highest tail-feathers in thie hen. The | HATE
in this variety should be bright yellow, well closed with. white
feathers slightly mottled with black.

8. COCHINS.

In conclusion I would ‘state that I do not believe, all things
considered, that there is any better market fowl than the Brahma; :
some pibes breeds are doubtlessly: supérior table fowls, but they

- are more tender and. harder to rear. :

Give. your Brahmas large roomy’ quarters in winter, and if
possible plenty of range for exercise; feed well, and they. wil]
-give you winter-eggs, and those are the kind that bring money,

COCHINS.

BUFF COCHINE.

‘The Cochins were first introduced into this country under the
name of Shanghaes; they originally come from Shanghae, and

COCHINS. 9

are to this day found in great numbersthere. Butthe Shanghaes,
as originally introduced and widely grown in this country, were
gigantic muscular birds of great activity and wonderful powers
of storing away food, which was absorbed into muscle and bore,
but made comparatively little juicy flesh. The consequence was,
they got a bad reputation, and the term was finally one of re-
proach; but upon the vast improvement which was made in them
by careful breeding, the name of Cochins, as designated by °
cinnamon or white or buff or partridge, rapidly superseded the
old term, and the despised but vastly improved Shanghae sailed
under a new name, and are now raised as profitable birds all over
the United States.

They are first-class layers, and in season when new-laid eggs
are rare, and from their scarcity of so much increased value, this
species often proves a source from whance we can obtain supplies.
They also make capital mothers, and are quiet when sitting.

In many places where space is limited, the Cochins are found
convenient guests; they can put.up with worse accommodation,
and require less space than almost any other race. I do not
mean to say that they will thrive the better for confinement,
neither that fowls in general will pine and die if kept in a narrow
range; all fowls are better for having ample space; but in cases
where their liberties are necessarily abridged and more careful
tending ig required to counterbalance. want of field-room, the
Cochin can bear captivity better than any other fowl. ,

The roosting-poles for Cochins and in fact all bulky fowls
should be near the ground; they should be largé in diameter in
order that the claws may maintain a firm clutch and perfect .
equilibrium without inconvenience or effort, —

VARIETIES OF THE COCHIN.
The Cochin fowl is a large heavy bird, very broad and clumsy:

10 & SPANISH FOWL.

looking. The tail is very short and nearly destitute of feathers:
but the remainder of its body is abundantly covered, The ‘legs~
are short, stout, and well feathered; the head should: be small, -
with a single straight comb; the beak short and stron gi: the wat-
_tles small, and, thé. mentite red and fine as to texture, “There
are many arietien of the Cochin viz—Burrs; this is ‘the true |
type of the colored birds, and for utility, I think the best,.

Partripck Cocuins.—Very heavy; full round ‘plump forms
anda majestic carriage, : 2 Ss

Waite Cocuins.—These should be pure white all over. An city ‘3
yards amid the smoke and dust the White Cochin do not appear
to advantage but in the country no. variety looks more pleasing,
as thé beauty of their plumage depends « on its clean and eieale.
condition, ~

If well selected; properly taken’ care of, and well fed, “they *
make a first-class table bird; they are hardy, donot require smiuch, .
space; and I should recommend them to any person ‘who only
wants to Reap a few birds.

SPANISH FOWLS.

“The Spanish fowls'have long been known and highly esteemed .
in the United. States for their great laying and va iting 3 pro.
pensities. 4 :

All fowls are better for being hatched in a warm season, and
the Spanish are no exception to this. ‘Though of a sound consti-
_ tution, no fowl is more injured by cold wet weather. ‘ Their

BLACK SPANISH FOWLS. | | 11

12 SPANISH FOWL,

roosting-places therefore should face the south, and be well-pro-

tected from cold winds, especially as they are subject to long-and °
protracted moultings. The cold affects their comb also, which
is sometimes frost-bitten, with a liability to mortification.

The flesh of the Spanish Black fowl is juicy and of good flavor,
_ but not equal to that of the “ Dorking.’ ” . The flesh of the White
Spanish is not considered so fine in flavor, as that of the Black,
yet it is not bad, especially if young.

As layers they are among the best, but are seldom inclined to
sit ; they generally produce two eggs consecutively and then mise
a, day.

As to healthiness, they are less liable to roup than lighter-
colored birds; in fact, thé Spanish fowl is lese subject to disease -
than are most of the common black varieties.

In general they are rather quarrelsome, and are ‘very averse to
strange fowls, and if separated from each other even for two or
three days, the hens will disagree seriously upon being reunited,

In case of a strange hen being tormented by her companions
for any length of time, so that she is afraid to come and feed with
them, or of the cock displaying his protracted dislike to her, ‘it
will be right to remove her, or she may be reduced’ to so low a
condition as to render her unable to escape their persecutions, and
avoid death from their violence.

The Spanish pullets commence laying when six or seven months |
old, and occasionally sooner; though some of them commence
at a later period, according to feeding and treatment, But _pre-
‘mature fertility is not to be wished for, as it will frequently hap-
pen that pullets which commence very early, seldom lay when
fully grown so large an egg as those produce which do not lay
before they are eight monthsold. Indeed the debilitating effects
of either premature, or continual laying in ripe age, as respects.
the Spanish breed are now and then manifested by the loss.of the

SPANISH FOWL, : 13

,

body feathers in moulting, besides the usual falling off of the
neck, and wing, and tail fcathers; and when thus ‘stripped, the
poor birds look very miserable in bad weather.

In sitting Spanish eggs, nine of them are sufficient for hens of
ordinary size, as they are much larger than the generality of
fowls eggs..

*

It will be unwise, with any breed, to select the first dozen of
a pullet’s eggs for hatching; they being comparatively immature
and small, it is not likely that large and strong chicks will be
the issue. Besides, pullets occasionally do not enter into tender
union with their male companions until they have laid five or
six eggs. :

The color of the Spanish chick, when first hatched, is ashining
black, with a biotch of white sometimes on the breast, and a
little white also around the bill and the eyes. They do not until -
nearly grown, get their full feathers, and therefore they should:
be hatched at a favorable season of the year, - ‘BO be well feathered
before it grows cold in the Fall.

Spanish hens seldom exhibit a disposition to undertake the
task of incubation, and if it be attempted, they will in- the gen- :
erality of cases forsake the nest long before the chicks would be
hatched. Sometimes, however, they will perseveringly pastas
the maternal duties; but it.is against their general character.
They are exceedingly long in the leg, consequently are subject
to cramp; this partly accounts for their being so averse to such
sedentary occupation. Since, therefore, they will not undertake
the office of mothers, we must impose. it upon some other class .
of fowl, that will not only aceept the task, but will joyfully hatch
and rear the youn~ of even another species until they are able to

' take care of . “witylves. It is by this means the @ Ebsukh breed
‘is still preservea oad multiplied.

14 SPANISH FOWL.’

VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTION OF THE SPANISH FOWL, -

“A full grown black Spanish cock weighs seven pounds; the hen,
about six pounds. ‘The principal features, and those which form
the most striking contrasts to those of. other fowls, are, its com-
plete suit of glossy black, large face, and ear-lobe of white;
enlivened by comb and gills of excessive development. The
peculiarities of these contrasts induce me to describe them in
detail. The plumage is of a rich ‘satin, black, reflecting. their
shades of bluish, greenish purple, when exposed to the sun’s rays;
the feathers of the breast, belly, and thighs, are. black, of the
‘most decided hue. The hens are of a similar feather, but less
brilliant. The face and ear-lobes especially the latter, are of
‘pearly whiteness; the face should extend above the eye, encircle
it, and meet the comb; it still increases as the bird grows older,
continuing to enlarge in size, especially with hens, which seldom
have a really good show of face until two years of age, even
beyond the time of their full growth; and the more face and ear-
Tobe, the more valuable either the. cock or hen, The comb of
the cock should be erect and ser. rated, almost extending to the
nostrils, and: of bright scarlet; it should be fine in texture, and
exhibit no sign of excreséences. In hens this uprightness” of
comb cannot be obtained, owing to its abundant size and thin-
ness of base. The wattles are long, pendulous, of high color,
and well folded. The head is long, and there should be no top-
knot behind the comb, nor muff round the néck. The beak ‘is
long, and generally black, it should be slightly curved, and thick
at the base. The eyes are very full, bright and of a rich chest-
nut color: they are somewhat prominent. The neck is rather
long, but strong and thick towards the base,.the neck hackle
being a glossy black; the chest and body are bro, and black,
the former being’ particularly dark; the wings » a3 a moderate
size, whilst the coverts are beautifully shaded, and of a bluish

SPANISH FOWL. 15

black. The thighs are neat but long, as also is the shank, which
is of a leaden or dark blue color, and sometimes of a pale blue-
Shite. The soles of the feet are of a dingy flesh-color; the tail
is rather erect and well balanced, presenting if well plumed (as
‘it should be) a very elegant green hued shade.

‘Waitt Spanisn.—These birds are not so hardy, but they
inherit the usual qualities of the black; the general feathers, like
the face being perfectly white.

Tug Ancona.—There is seldom much white about the face
of this variety, and in many cases none; the ear-lobes is, however,
of that color, though not so long and fullasinthe Black. They
possess the general characteristics of the Spanish class, and are
excellent layers. They are of a very unsettled color, spotted
with white but far from regularly marked; they also present many
other shades and colors.

Mrnorcas.—These are very similar to the last named variety,
wanting the white face of the Black tribe; the shank is not. so
‘long as in the true Black. They are good layers, but bad sitters .
and mothers. .

ANDALUSIAN.—When ‘carefully selected, the chicks throw
black and white and if those most resembling the originals are
bred together, a neat grey bird may be obtained. They are good
layers, and far better sitters and mothers than the. Blacks, and
have shorter shanks ; whilst their principal peculiarity consists in
a tail standing very erect, the feathers of which in many spe-
cimens nearly touch the hackle-feathers of the neck. They are
a very hardy fowl, and possess a fair share of the Black’s good
qualities. .

There are many other sub-varieties, or rather strains, : that
have crossed with the Spanish -stock, but they neither deserve
nor possess a distinct name. ,

”

16 | DORKING FOWL.

The superiority of the Spanish generally, as egg producers, is 80,
decided, that any cross from them meriting the character of
everlasting layers, is worth encouragement. It is to be recol-
lected that the Hamburgh or Dutch is not the only sort from which
everlasting layers have sprung. Any hens which with warmth
and good feeding will lay eggs continuously, and especially
through the winter, are to be welcomed, And though the debil-
itating effects of continued laying must tell upon the constitution,
-yet where stock is not desired: for a mere gratification of the eye,
but kept on economical principles, it cannot be inexpedient to
stimulate the prolific’ powers of hens to the utmost, If good
layers which have not the presumption to compete for the prizes
of birth or beauty, can by clever management, be induced to lay
within two years the entire compliment of eggs which in the
ordinary course of riature would not be yielded by them in less
than three years, there is an actual saving gained of at least one-
third of food, if these.effete layers be then fattened and killed.
No breed would be better if this plan is, strictly applied, than
that of. the common Blacks of Spanjsh blood, or some of their
sub-varieties.

THE DORKING FOWL.

Of distinct English breeds the Dorkings are the most celebra-
ted. For those who wish to stock their poultry-yard with fowls
of the most desirable shape and size, clothed in rich and varie-
‘gated plumage, and not expecting perfection are willing to over-
look one or two other points, the speckled Dorkings are the
breéd to be at once selected. The hens, in addition to their gay

DORKING FOWL, VW

GRAY ENGLISH DORKINGS.

r

colors, have a large vertically flat comb, which, when they are
in high health, adds very much to their brilliant appearance.
“The eocks are magnificent; the most gorgeous hues are frequently
lavished upon them; which their great size and peculiarly square=
built form displays to great advantage. The breeder, and the
farmer’s wife, behold with delight their broad breast, the small
proportion of offal; and the large quantity of profitable flesh.

18 DORKING FOWL.

The Cockerels may be brought to considerable weight, and the
flavor and appearance of the meat are inferior to none. They

‘are only fair layers, but at due and convenient intervals mani-
fest the desire of sitting. Having short, compact legs, they are
well formed for incubation. The ‘Dorkings are not well suited for
damp soils, by reason of the shortness of_their legs. They are
also distinguished for breadth of body, the somewhat partridge
form, and also, in the poultry phraze, for being elean headed,
Though they possess great similarity of form, there is much vari-
ety of color; but they are generally distinguished as white, grey
or speckled, and also by the character of the comb—viz, as single
and double, or rose combed; and classed accordingly at the poul-
try shows.

The fifth or supernumerarytoe is the peculiar mark distinctive of
the whole breed under consideration. Though. the Creator has
not designed anything without its appropriative purpose, this
additional member must rather be deemed a distinctive than a
useful one, just as the absence of a tail, or the color and size of
a comb may distinguish an individual race of fowls. These over-
furnished claws have been denounced as sources of danger and.
annoyance to young chicks when first issuing from the shell,
rendering the mother’s movements hazardous to them. I have
“never seen them do so, and even if they did how is the hen to be
employed when the sitting fit comes on, for they are persevering
sitters, and as neither worrying, nor whipping, nor fettering, nor
physicking, or the cold shower bath, will subdue their natural
instinct to set, they should be allowed to fellow their instinct, .
and incubate in peace.

The Dorkings are a very heavy fowl when fat, as their frame
work is not of that lengthy, incompact structure which it is so
difficult to fill up with flesh and fat; they’ much sooner become
tempting figures for trussing and-skewering than other fowls.
They have a great aptitude for fattening when rendered capons,

DORKING FOWL. 19

VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTION.

Wurtz Dorxrnas.—This variety seldom produces more than
two broods a year, because they require more favorable ‘seasons,
and greater warmth than the colored.

The white is not so large as the colored, and, as a general rule,
whiteness in animal physiology is indicative of constitutional
‘delicacy. Their average weight is less than that of the colored,,
and like all white feathered poultry, the flesh has a tendency to
yellowness.

The white cock and hen are cde white in the plumage,
bills, and legs; both should have a double or rose-comb of bright
red, though a single one is frequent, but this is considered asign
of degeneracy. The cock is very. upright and spirited in his

appearance, and his spurs are usually lower than those in other
species. The fifth toe should be well defined. The hen has no

individualities.

Tur Grey orn SreckteD Dorxine Cocx.—The head round,
and furnished with double or single comb, of bright red; wattles,
large and pendent; the ear-lobes almost white; hackles, a cream
white, and the feathers of the hackles dark along the centre; the
back, grey of different shades, ‘interspersed with black; saddle
. feathers, same as hackles in color; wing feathers, white, mixed
. with black; the larger wing coverts, black; the lesser, brown and
- yellow, shaded with white; breast and thighs, black or dark
brown; tail feathers, very dark, with a metallic lustre.

Taz Grey or CororeD Hen.—Face, lighter colored than
that of the cocks; hackles, black and white; back, dark grey;
saddle and wing, grey, tipped with black; tail, almost black.
Five claws and white legs characterize both. sexes.

20 POLAND FOWL. _

POLAND FOWLS.

WHITE CRESTED BLACK POLISH COCK AND HEN.

The Polands are excellent layers of perfectly white and mod-
erately-sized eggs, much pointed at thesmallerend, Theyseem
to be Jess inclined to sit than any other breed, and it is judicious
to put their eggs under other nurses. The chicks of both sexes,
which are hardly distinguishable for many weeks, are very or-
namental. The male bird is first distinguished by the tailremain-
ing depressed, awaiting the growth of the sickle feathers, whereas
the female carries it uprightly from the first’ also, the top-knot
in the cockerels hangs more backward than in the pullets,

Their flesh is excellent, being white, tender and juicy.

During three or four years the cocks in particular increase in
size, hardihood, and beauty, different in this from fowls gener-
ally, which advance much more rapidly to their highest points

POLAND FowL, 21

of perfection, but from which they fall away with corresponding
rapidity.

The Polands are extremely tender, and so difficult to rear, that
the eggs should not be set before the middle of May, as dampness
is fatal to them while very young; but, if they live to be adults,
no fowls are more hardy, or profitable as sti or more delicious
for the table. pial

Their demerits are few, and of no serious importance. They
are not at all suited tu dirty farmyards, becoming blind and
miserable with dirt. They do not lay quite so early in the year
as other tribes, and are not suited for the office of mothers and
nurses, from their great disposition to lay; and when they do sit,
they are rather unsteady and perverse, Now these objections
may be dismissed, because there is nothing to prevent the sub-
stitution of hens of other tribes for hatching, and if the Polish
hens and pullets themselves in the mean time lay eggs, there is
no loss in an economical point of view.

We have good practical authority for stating that the critical
period of their lives is from the second to the sixth month.

DESCRIPTION AND VARIETIES,

The crest of the cock is composed of straight feathers, some-
thing like those of a hackle or saddle; they grow from the centre
of the crown and fall over outside, forming a circular crest. That
of the hen is made up of feathers growing out and turning in at
the extremities, till they form a large top-knot, which should™in
shape resemble a cauliflower. The comb of the cock is peculiar,
inasmuch as it is very small, scarcely any on the top of the head,
and having in front two small spirals or fleshy horns. The car-
riage is upright, and the breast more protuberant than in any
other fowl, save the Sebright bantam, The body is very round
and full, slightly tapering to the tail, which is carried erect, and

22 POLAND FOWL.

. which is ample, spreading towards the extremity i in the hen, and |
having well défined sickle feathers in the. cock. The legs should
be lead color or black, and rather short than otherwise.

POLISH FOWLS,

The varieties among usare the Black; White; the Golden Span-

. gled; and the Silver Spangled. ,
Buiacx Ponanps.—Cock; body, neck, and tail, black, with
metallic tints of green; crest, white, with a few black feathers
at the base of the bill; comb, very sinall, consisting only of two

SULTAN FOWL. 23

or three spikes; large wattles, bright red; ear-lobe, white; the
skull, instead of being flat as in other varieties, has a fleshy pro-
tuberance or round knob.

Hex; the same colors; wattles smaller than those of the cock;
in other points the same.

Wart Potaxps.—These should be pure white all over with
the exception of the legs which are of a blue or slate color.

Gotpry SpaxeLep.—Cock; ground color, very bright ochre
yellow, black spangles, which, in a particular light, havea beau-
tiful greenish tint; crest, chestnut, with a few white feathers,
black beard; comb and wattles small; hackle and saddle feathers,
golden yellow; thigh, generally black, but some specimens have
them spangled; sickle feathers, dark brown and very large, the
smaller side ones lighter in the colors, and beautifally faced with
black; legs, slate color. ;

Hxss;—general colors the same; breast, neck, and back, span-
gled; tail and wing feathers, laced.

Sirver Spaneitep.—The only difference between this variety
and the preceding one is in the ground, which is.a beautiful

_ Silver white.

The Polands very often have crooked backs; when buying
them the best mode for detecting the deformity is to lay the palm
of the right hand flat on the bird’s back, by which any irregu-
larity of either hip, or a curve im the back bone from the hips to
the tail will be detected.

THE SULTAN FOWL.

The Sulians, or Feather-footed White Polish, are 2 very ele-
gant and pleasing variety, and were imported from Constanti-
-zople. They partake of the character of the Polish in their chief

24 SULTAN FOWL.

chumeedation in. compactness of form and good laying qualities. ,

-In general habits they are brisk and happy tempered. They
are very good layers of large white eggs, but are non-sitters and
small eaters.

As adults they are very hardy, with the exception of the ten-
dency to cold, to -which all crested birds are subject when ex-
posed; but the chickens, from their rapid ard early feathering, i
are difficult to rear, evidently suffering severely -from the extra
strain on their young constitutions.

DESCRIPTION.

\. To form thet & are very plump, full ea short-legged and
compact; the ~pliitage pure and unsullied white throughout and
very abundant: ‘thet tails are ample, and carried erect; > their
thighs are short, and ‘farnished with feathers which project
beyond the joint, or vulture hocked. Their legs are short, white,
and profusely feathered to the feet, which are five toed. The
comb consists of two small spikes situated at the base of a full-
sized globular Polish: ‘rest; the wattles are small and red, wrin-
kled, both sexes being amply bearded. No fowlsare more abun-
dantly decorated—full tail of sickle-feathers, abundant furnish-
ing, boots, vulture-hoeks, beards, whiskers, and full round Polish
crests, formed of closely-set, silky, arched feathers, not concea]-

‘ing the eyes, but leaving them unobscured. ;

The legs, as old age approaches, are apt to get red, swollen and
inflamed, perhaps from the spur growing in a curved form and
producing irritation.

All the varieties of the Polish if kept in a damp situation are
liable to a cold, apt to degenerate into roup, and if they ‘are téo
closely bred, liable to tuberculous diseases and deformity of the
spine, causing humpback, they are also very subject to vermin

MALAY FOWL. 25

t

unless supplied with a sand bath; vermin, however, may be
readily destroyed by dusting flour of mayen under the feathers
with a common flour-dredger.

THE MALAY FOWL.

The Malay is a large heavy fowl, with close fitting plumage}
it stands very high, and has an upright carriage; height is con-
sidered a great point in this breed; the head is small for the size
of the bird, with considerable fulness over the eye, which should ;
be pearl, and the hawk bill should be quite free fromstain, Like
the game fowl, the Malays are most pugnacious and determined ©
fighters, and therefore not suitable for small yards. If they can
get no other enemy they will even fight their own shadows.

The chickens fledge late, and have for a long while a bare,
wretched appearance. They require a dry, warm temperature,
as in youth, before being fully feathered, they are very delicate
and highly susceptible of cold and wet.

The Malays are good layers and sitters and after fiey. are full
grown, can be kept most anywhere, but on account of their
vindictive cruel nature they are by no means desirable to chave
and my advice is, to have nothing to do with them,

,

26 GAME FOWL.

GAME FOWLS.

BLACK BREASTED RED GAME FOWLS.

- \

This noble race has relationship, though now of remote gener-
ations, with the Malays. Before we had any of this breed, the
inhabitants of several portions of the Malay or Malacca peninsula,
and various parts of the-East, possessed them, and used them
chiefly for the purpose of cock-fighting,

a thorough-bred Game cock of high degree never fails in

courage when opposed to one of his own order. And the Game

fowls the only bird put to the test of combat to prove whether
he be genuine or not. =. ,.. :

GAME FOWL. at

‘There is a generally recognised standard for form and figure,
which must not be departed from, whatever variety of color the
birds may present. In weight they vary; four pounds eight or
ten ounces was the weight aimed at by the breeders‘for the cock-
pit, but six pounds is often reached, when two years old; but
beyond this weight impurity of blood may be suspected.

The carriage and form of the Game cock are certainly more
beautiful than that of any other variety of domestic fowl. ‘The
neck is long, strong and gracefully curved; the hackle'short and
very close; the breast broad; the back short, broad across the
shoulders; the whole body very firm and hard, with a perfectly
straight breast and back, the latter tapering toward the tail; the
wings large and powerful, and carried closely pressed into the
sides; the thighs strong, muscular and short, tightly clothed with-
feathers, and well set forward on the body, so as to be available
for fighting; the shanks rather long, strong but not,’ égarse » COV-
ered with fine scales; the feet flat and thin, thé toes long and
spreading, so as to give a good hold on the ground; the hind toe
must be set low down, so as to rest flatly on the ground, and not
merely touch with the point—a defect which is known as “‘duck-
footed,’’ and renders the bird unsteady when pushed backward
by his opponent.

The plumage is compact, hard and mail-like to a yemadiatile
degree, and possesses a brilliant glossiness that cannot be sur-
passed, The tail in the cock is tather long, the sickle feathers
gracefully arched and carried closely together, the whole tail
curved backward and not brought forward over the back—a
defect called squirrel-tailed.

The head is extremely beautiful, being thin and long, like that
of a greyhound; the beak massive at its root, strong, and well
éurved; the eye large, very full, and brilliant in lustre; the ear-
lobe and face of a bright scarlet, and the comb in undubbed
birda single, erect, and thin, The spur, which is exceedingly

28 GAME FOWL,

dense and sharp, should be set low on the leg, increasing its

power; spurs are frequently on the hens,
In the hen, the form, making due allowance for the difference

GAME FOWLS. .

of sex and alteration of plumage, resembles that of the cock.
The head is neater, the face lean and thin. The small thin comb
should be low in front, evenly serrated, and perfectly erect,

GAME FOWL. 2g

The deaf-ear and wattles should be small. The neck, from the
absence of hackle feathers, looks longer and more slender than
that of her mate. The tail feathers should be held closely
together, and not spread out like a fan. The plumage should be
so close that the form of the wing should be distinctly visible,
the outline not being hidden by the feathers of the body.

As the Game fowl is impatient of restraint, a good grass run
is essential to keep it in good condition. In breeding great care
must be taken in matching, as regards form, feather and the
color of the beak and legs. Much depends upon the purity of
the hens, for a good Game hen, with a dunghill cock, will breed
-good fighting birds, but the best Game cock, with a dunghill
hen, will not breed a bird good for anything. It is not desirable
to-mate old birds; a stag, or last year’s bird placed with hens
two or three years old, will produce finer chickens than when
an old cock is mated with last season’s hens. For great excel-
lence, four hens with one cock is sufficient.

The hens are good layers and as sitters have no superiors.
Quiet on their eggs, regular incoming off, and confident, in their
fearlessness, of repelling intruders, they rarely fail to rear good
broods, and defend them from violent attacks.

The newly-hatched chickens are very attractive; those of the
darker breeds are light brown, with a dark brown stripe down
the back and a narrower line over the eye. The duck-wings,
grays and blues have proportionally paler oe but the stripe is -
seldom absent.

The chickens feather rapidly; and with a care and liberal,
-varied diet, such as cottage cheese, chopped egg, with a portion

of onions, bread crumbs, grits, boiled oatmeal, barley and wheat,
with some milk in the earlier stages of their growth, are reared
with less difficulty than other fowls.

As Game fowls will fight, and as they are frequently trained
for fightiag, it is argued that their combs, ear-lobes and wattles

‘80 DOMINIQUE FOWL.

should be removed, or “‘dubbed.’? This had best be entrusted
to the skilled professional.
VARIETIES,

The recognized varieties of Game fowls are—the Black; Black
breasted Red; White; White Pile; Blue; Brown-red; Red Pile;
Gray; Spangled; Ginger-red; Silver Duck-wing; Yellow Duck-
wing.

a

ee
we i Ihe yp

Ure,

DOMINIQUE FOWL,

BANTAMS. 31

THE DOMINIQUE FOWL.

This seems to be a tolerable distinct and permanent variety,
about the size of the common Dungbill Fowl. Their name is
taken from the island of Domini¢a, from which they are reported
to have been imported. Take all in all, they are one of the very
best breeds of fowl which we have; and although they do not
come in to laying so young as the Spanish, they are far better
sitters and nursers. Their combs are generally double, and the
wattles are quite small. Their plumage presents, all over, a sort
of greenish appearance, from a peculiar arrangement of blue and
white feathers, which is the chief characteristic of the variety;
although, in some specimens, the plumage is gray in both cock
and hen. They are very hardy, healthy, excellent layers and
capital sitters. No fowl have better stood the tests of mixing
without deteriorating than the pure Dominique.

\

SEBRIGHT BANTAM.

82 HAMBURG FOWL.

THE BANTAMS.

Bantams are generally kept more for show and amusement

than anything else, although, even as profitable poultry they are
not destitute of merit; in proportion to the food they consume,

they furnish a fair supply of eggs. As table fowls, the hardy
little Game Bantams are excellent, plump, full chested and
meaty, As useful and ornamental pets, I know of no birds that
are superior. The Sebright Bantams are the most esteemed by
fanciers, The cocks should not weigh more than twenty-seven
ounces; hens about twenty-three, but the lighter in weight ‘thé.
‘more they are appreciated.

The chicks-of the Bantams generally should be hatched’in fine
weather, and kept for some time ‘ina cozy place,

VARIETIES,
Golden Sebright; Silver Sebright; Game; Rose-combed Black;
Rose-combed White; Japanese; Pekin; Booted White; and White.
crested White Polish,

GOLDEN 8PANGLED HAMBURG COCK AND HEN,

HAMBURG FOWL. 88

THE HAMBURG FOWL.

These fowls are ‘‘Everlasting layers’’ and are seldom inclined
to sit. They are too small in sizo to rear for table, and I think
too delicate when young to rear at all; only they are such wo:
derfully good layers, that one dislikes to dispense with them.
They are also known as Chittaprats, Belton Greys, Pencilled
Dutch, Silver Hamburgs, Creole, Bolton Bays, Golden Ham-

-burgs. They are a very noisy fowl, and if the hen-roost. should
be disturbed at night, nothing but death or liberty will induce
chem to hold the peace.

SILVER SPANGLED HAMBURGS.

DESCRIPTION AND VARIETIES.
_ The Hamburgs have a graceful and upright carriage. The
head in the cock is small; beak ofa ‘dark color, medium in size;
rose comb of a deep red color not inclining to droop on either

34 PLYMOUTH ROCKS.

side, the top covered with small points and ending in a spike;

ear-lobes, white of medium size; wattles, red; neck curved;

hackle, large and flowing; body, round; breast, very fall; plu-

mage close and glossy; legs rather short. The varieties are—

Black; White; Golden Pencilled; Silver Pencilled; Golden
. Spangled; Silver Spangled.

PLYMOUTH ROCKS.

- “If there is a better breed for the farmer, or for those who
desire both eggs and chickens, we have failed to find it: although
many have been tried and ‘found wanting.’ ”

The great popularity that the Plymouth Rock fowl has attained
in so short a time, is without a parallel in the annals of gallina-
culture, and no other breed is so highly esteemed in America
to-day. It has attained this popularity, too, entirely on its own
intrinsic merit, without the eclat of foreign origin, or the outlay
of large sums of money in “‘pu’ ” As table fouls, they have
no equal in America; being exceedingly sweet, juicy, fine-grained,
tender, and delicate. As spring chickens, they are the very best
breed, for, added to the excellence of their flesh, they feather
early, and mature with remarkable rapidity. As market fowls,
they are unsurpassed, being large (cocks weigh 9 to 11 pounds,
hens 7 to 9), and very plump bodies, with full breasts, cleau,
bright yellow legs, and yellow skin; they always command the
highest price. As egg-producers, they are only excelled by the
Leghorn class, and lay more eggs than any other breed that

PLYMOUTH ROCKS. 35

hatches and rears its own young, and can be depended upon for
eggsallthe yearround. Theireggs arealsoof large size, very rich,

and fine-flavored, from white to redish-brown in color. In
hardiness, both as chicks and mature fowls, they are also

88 PLYMOUTH ROCKS.

unequaled, and being out-and-out an American breed, they adapt
themselves to all climates and situations better than any other
breed. Their combs and wattles being of moderate size, are not
liable to freeze, and they have no feathers on the lower part of
their legs to drabble in the snow and mud, and thereby chill
them. In plumage, they are bluish-gray, each feather distinctly
penciled across with bars of a darker color, hence are very
admirable, and not likely to become soiled by the smoke and-
dust of the city. Added to their fine plumage, their symmetrical
form and upright and pleasing carriage enable them td vie with
most breeds, either upon the lawn, in the yard. of the fancier, or
in the exhibition hall. As mothers, they are excellent, being
neither non-sitters nor persistent sitters, are kind and gentle,
‘and good foragers. In, disposition, they are quict,., gentle, amd
cheerful, bear confinement well, and are easily confined, their
~wings being too small, and bodies too large to admit to much
progress in fight, If given range, they will find their own living,
and if confined, need a remarkably small amount of food for
such large fowls. In‘fine, this comparatively new breed com-
bines all the sturdy and excellent qualities of the ideal fowl to a
wonderful degree, (the merits of the large flesh-producing and
small egg-producing breeds, ) filling a place long-8 sought for, but
never before attained, and isagoldenmcan. Iti is 3s pre-eminently
the farmer’s and mechanics’ fowl—-in fact the Best fowl for all
who have facilities for keeping but one variety, and desire that
one to be a “general purpose” breed.

LANGSHANS, 37

LANGSHANS,

LANGSHAN FOWL,

The Langshan is the latest acquisition to our poultry yards
from Asia, and, judging from our experience with other Asiatic
"breeds, their origin certainly augers well for their future in this

country. They are natives of northern China, and consequently
accustomed to its rugged climate.

The discoverer of this variety in China was a scientist in the
employ of the British government, and not a ‘‘chicken fancier,”
particularly. Eight years ago, he wrote thus to his English

* friends: ‘I send you some fine fowls by the steamer Archilles,
of Hall & Holt’s line. They are clear black, and are called Lang-
shans. Look out for their arrival and send for them without

68 LANGSHANS;

delay.” * * * A second letter stated that “the fowls I am
sending you are very fine. Their plumage is of a bright glossy -
black. I have never seen any like them before, and I am told
their flesh is excellent. The Chinese say they are allied to the
wild turkey; they are very’ valuable birds. You must be very
careful of them, and get them acclimated by degrees.”

These birds we sent to Major A. C. Croad, Durington Worth-
ing, England, from his nephew, who was, a few yearsago, upon
an exploring expedition under orders from the English govern-
ment, in the north of China, where he discovered this fine variety ;
of fowls, in the province of Langshan, and sent home the first
that were ever seen in England.

Upon the arrival of the Archilles, in England, Major Croad
lost no time in sending for his birds; and the messenger, on his
return, informed him that the new arrivals had received quitean
ovation in the docks, people crowding to have a look at them,
asking what breed they were, and whether they were for sale,
etc. The captain of the steamer told him that, although he had
been several times to china, he had never met with any fowls
like these before.

The Langshans were publicly exhibited the next year at the

: Crystal Palace and other leading shows, and were bred success-
fully for three or four years, the stock being kept under the
supervision of the agents of the original importer.

They were of late years imported to America, and our Ameri-
ean fanciers speak well of them; in fact they are the best birds
that were ever imported from China. Langshans have straight
red combs, somewhat larger than those of Cochins.. Their
breast is full, broad and round, and carried well forward, being
well meated, similar to the Dorkings. Their body is round and
deep like the Brahmas. The universal color of the plumage is a
rich metallic black. The tail is long, full feathered, and of the.
same color as the body. The color of their legs is a blue black,

WYANDOTTES. 39

with a purplish tint between the toes. The average weight of a
»ockerel, at seven or eight months, when fattened, is about ten
younds; and a pullet about eight pounds. Their carriage is sty-
ish and stately.

. The good qualities claimed for the Langsbans are the follow-
ing: They are hardy, withstanding readily even severest weather.
They attain maturity quite as early as any of the large breeds.
They lay large, rich eggs all the year round, and are not inveter-
ate sitters. Being of large size, with white flesh and skin, they
make an excellent table fowl; more especially so on account of
the delicacy of the flavor which the flesh possesses. To briefly
summarize, I may then say that this breed is worth the attention
of all. Firstly, because they come from a part of the world
which has given us many of our most excellent breeds; and
secondly, because their popularity is in the ascendency, and they
seem to combine in themselves nearly all the valuable charac-
teristics that go to make up a practically usefal fowl.

1 give in connection with this article a wood-cut of a pair of
Langshans, believing that a faithful illustration will do more
to give an accurate idea than even an extended description. It
will be observed that, apparently, they are more like the Black
Cochin than any other breed with which we are familiar, but
in reality they differ very essentially from them.

WYANDOTTES.

This new breed have so many points to recommend them, both
to the fancier and farmer, that they will surely become very

Ea “ WYANDOTTES. ,

popular. © Their plumage is white, heavily laced with blacks:
the tail alone being solid black; the lacing on the breast
is peculiarly handsome. Tliey have a small rose comb, close

TS

fitting ; face and ear lobes ,, bright red, Their legs ‘are
free from feathers and are of a rich yellow color. In shape
they bear more resemblance to the Dorkings than any other

LEGHCRN FOWL. 41

breed. Hens weigh 8 to 9 pounds, cocks 9 to 10 pounds, when
full grown. They are very hardy, mature carly, and are ready
to market at any age. Their flesh is very fine flavored and close
grained, which, with their yellow skin, model shape and fine,
pump appearance, particularly adapts them fur market. Thcy
are extraordinary layers, surprising every brecder at the quan-
tity of eggs they produce. If allowed to sit they make most
careful mothers, are content anywhere, and will not attempt to
fly over a fence four fect high. Their great beauty and good
qualities will make for them a host of friends wherever the breed
is introduced.

THE LEGHORN FOWL.

ROSE COMB BROWN LEGHORN.

42 LEGHORN FOWL.

This abmirable breed of fowls has become widely disseminated
in the United States. They are valued for their many good
qualities, among which are beauty and constant laying propensi-
ties.

BROWN LEGHORN COCK,

They are very hardy fowls, possessing all the advantages of
the Spanish without their drawbacks. Their legs are bright
yellow, and perfectly free from feathering on the shanks, The
faces are red, the ear lobes only being white. The comb i in the
cock is thin, erect and evenly serrated. In the hen it falls over
like that of a Spanish hen. The tail in. the cock is exceedingly
well furnished with side sickle-feathers, and in both sexes is
earried perfectly erect. The birds are active, good foragers,

LEGHORN FOWL, 43

ind have a very handsome and sprightly carriage. They are
abundant layers of full sized eggs, the hens rarely showing any
inclination to sit, but laying the whole year round, except during
the annual month. The chickens are very hardy; they feather
quickly and mature rapidly, thus having the advantage over the
Spanish.

These fowls are exceedingly useful as well as ornamental
addition to our stock of poultry; they are more valuable to egg-
farmers than breeders of table fowls, as they are but small eaters
and so do not put on flesh quickly. To people, however, who
depend on their poultry bringing them a constant supply of eggs,

they are invaluable.

44 FRENCH BREEDS.

LEGHORN VARIETIES, .
Black; White; Brown, and Dominiques.

LEGHORN FOWL.

THE FRENCH BREEDS.

CREVECaURS.—These birds are generally supposed to be of
Norman origin, and to owe their name to the little village of
‘Creveceurs, not far from Lisieux. They are fine, well plumaged

FRENCH BREEDS. 4

black birds, with large crests on their heads, in the front of which
are situated the two horns, or spikes, which arise from the
bifurcation of the comb. They give the bird a very curious
look, and make his head resemble the pictures of that of his
Satanic majesty. The birds are well shaped, with rather large
legs of a leaden, grey color. The hens lay large white eggs,
but are not good sitters. The pullets mature early, and as they
lay soon, put on fat readily, and are of a good shape for table;
they are, in dry warm localities, profitable fowls to keep; they
bear confinement well, but are rather difficult to rear, and have
a decided tendency to “Youp.,’ If ‘crossed with Brahmas or
Leghorns they might probably become more hardy.

LA FLECHE FOWLS.

These birds may be’ considered, I think, the best of the
¥rench fowls for table; they are’ also more hardy than the
Crevecoours, and have more size and more style, being
handsome, upstanding birds, in color jet black, with rich, me-
tallic plumage; their ear lobes are large and perfectly white,
their faces bright: red and free from feathers. The comb in
good well-bred birds does not vary with the sex, and is in the
shape of a pair of straight horns; the leg-scales are lead color,
hard and firm. The cocks are tall without being at all leggy;
the hens have large and rather long bodies, longish necks, and
thin clean legs. The best specimens come from the North of
France, though they are not even there easy to procure, as the.

"French do not go in for keeping the different breeds of fowls,
distinct, so it is hard to obtain really pure-bred birds.

46 FRENCH BREEDS.

HOUDANS.

HOUDAN COCK AND HEN.

These are considered the best French fowls, and of late years
have become great favorites with poultry- fanciers, They have,
like the Dorkings, five claws on each foot ; their plumage is black
and white, shaded with violet and green ; they are crested birds,
the crest turning backwards.over the neck ; their cheeks are well
feathered, and wattles well developed. They differ from other

& species by several remarkable “traits, the head forms a very.
‘obtuse angle with the neck, so that the beak is depressed and
viewed from above appears like anose. The flat square comb
looks like a fleshy forehead; the eheeks are surrounded with
curling feathers which resemble whiskers; the reversed cornérs
of: the beak have the appearance of amouth, The crest looks-
like a head of hair, and the entire visage instantly reminds the
spectator of a man’s face.

DOMESTIC TURKEY. 47

Houdans are hardy, not difficult to rear good steady layers,
but non-sitters ; they put on fat readily, and are very good table
fowls, flesh excellent and shapely in form.

THE DOMESTIC TURKEY.

The domestic turkey can scarcely be said to be divided, like
the common fowl, into distinct breeds ; although there is consi-
derable variation in color, as wellasin size, The finest and

48 DOMESTIC TURKEY. 2
strongest birds ard those of a bronzed-black ; these are not only .
reared the most easily, but are genorally the largest, and fatten
the most rapidly. Some turkeys are of a coppery tint, some ofa
Celicate fawn-color, while others are parti-colored, grey, and.
white, and some fow of a pure snow white. All of the latter-
are regarded a as inferior to the black, their color indicating some-
thing like degeneracy of ‘constitution.

To describe the domestic turkey is superfluous; the voice of
the male; the changing colors of the skin of the head and neck;
his proud strut, with expanded tail and lowered wings, jarring
on the ground; his irascibility, which is readily excited by red
or scarlet colors, are points with which all who dwell in the
country are conversant.

The adult turkey, is extremely hardy, and bears the rigors of
winter with impunity even in thd’ open air; for during the
severest weather, flocks will frequently. roost at night upon the
roof of a barn, or the branches. of tall trees, preferring such an
accommodation to an indoor roost. The impatience of restraint
and restlessness of the turkey, render it unfit company for fowls
in their domitory; in fact the fowl house is altogether an im-
proper place for these large birds, which require open sheds and
high perches, and altogether as much freedom as is consistent

_ with their safety.
Although, turkeys will roost even during the winter months
- on trees, it is by no means recommended that this should be
allowed, as the fect of these birds are apt to become frostbitten
from such exposure to the air on the sudden decline of the tem-
perature far below the freezing point.

Turkeys are fond of ‘wandering about pastures, and the borders

of fields, or in fact any place where thcy can find insects, snails,

' slugg, ete., which they greed:ly devour. In the morning, they
should have a good supply of grain, and after their rerurn from
their peregrinations another feed; by this plan, not only will the

DOMESTIC TURKEY 49

‘due return home of the flock be insured, but the birds will be
kept in good condition, and ready at any time to be put upon
- fattening diet. Never let them be in poor condition—this is an

axiom in the treatment of all poultry—it is difficult, and takes.a
long time, to bring a bird into proper condition, which has. been
previously poorly fed or half starved.

The turkey hen is a steady sitter; nothing will induce her to
leave the nest; indeed, she often requires to be removed to her
food, so overpowering is her instinctive affection; she must be
freely supplied with water within her reach; should she lay any
eggs after she has commenced incubation, these should be
removed—it is proper, therefore, to mark those which were
given to her to sit upon. The hen should now on no account, be
rashly disturbed; no one except the person to whom she is accus-
tomed, and from whom she receives her food, should be allowed
to go near her, and the eggs, unless circumstances imperatively
require it, should not be meddled with.

The hen usually sits twice in the year, after laying from a
dozen to fifteen or more eggs, on alternate days, or two days'in
succession, with the interval of one day afterwards, before each
breeding. _ She commences her first laying in March; and if a
second early laying is desired, after she has hatched her brood,
it is economical to transfer the chicks immediately after they
leave the shell to another turkey-ben which had begun to incu-
bate contemporaneously with her, and will now take willing
charge of the two young families. This, however, cannot be
viewed as a benevolent proceeding; and much less so if the
mother be deprived of her offspring, and the consequent pleas-
ure of rearing them, for the purpose of putting a fresh set of
eggs under her, which she will steadily hatch for three or four
weeks more. In this case, however, fowls’ eggs are usually -
given, from merciful consideration to abridge the period of ineu-_
bation from thirty-one to twenty-one days.

50 DOMESTIC TURKEY.

‘According bs the size of the hen, the season, and the range
local temperature, the number of eggs for each hatch may be
stated at from éleven to seventeen; thirteen is & fair average~
number. As the hen lays them, her eggs should be immedi-.
ately removed, and kept apart until the time for sitting them;'
else the awkward bird might break them in the nest, as she
‘goes in or out of it. While she is incubating, the cock bird
should not'be permitted to approach it, lest he should mischiev-
ously break the eggs or disturb the hen. ‘

On about the thirtieth day, the chicks leave the eggs; the
little ones for some hours will be in no-hurry to eat; but when
they do begin, supply them constantly and abundantly with
chopped eggs, shreds of meat and fat, curd, boiled rice, mixed
with lettuce, and the green of onions. Melted mutton suet
poured over barley or Indian-meal dough, and cut up when cold.
is an excellent thing. Little turkeys do not like their food to be
minced much smaller than they can swallow it; indolently pre-.
ferring to make a meal at three or four mouthfuls to troubling -
themselves with the incessant pecking and scratching in which °
chickens so much delight. Butat any rate, the quantity con-
sumed costs but little; the attention to supply it is everything.

As in the case of young fowls, the turkey chicks do not require
food for several hours after they have emerged from their shells.

It is useless to cram them as some do, fearing lest they should
starve; and besides, the beak is as yet so tender that it runs a
chance of being injured by the process. There is no occasion
for alarm if, for thirty hours, they content themselves with the
warmth of their parent and enjoy her care. When the chicks
feel an inclination for food, it will soon become apparent to you
by their actions, then feed them as I have before directed.

FATTENING.
About the middle of September or the first of October, it will

DOMESTIC TURKEY, 51

be time to begin to think of fattening some of the earliest broods,
in order to supply the markets, A hen will be four or five weeks
in fatting; a large cock two months or longer, in reaching his
full weight. The best diet is barley or Indian meal, mixed with
water, given in troughs that have a flat board over them, to keep
dirt from falling in. A turnip with the leaves attached, or a
hearted cabbage, may now and then be thrown down to amuse
them. When they have arrived at the desired degree of fatness,
those which are not wanted for immediate use must have. no
more food given them than is just sufficient to keep them in
that state; otherwise the flesh will become red and: inflamed, ©
and of course less palatable and wholesome. But with the very
best management, after having attained their acme of fattening,
they will frequently descend again, and that so quickly,. and
without apparent cause, as to become quite thin, Turkeys fatten
faster, and with less expense, by caponizing them, which, also,
produces better and sweeter flesh.

52 ‘GUINEA FOWL,

THE GUINEA FOWL.

THE GUINEA FOWL.

Of all known birds, this, perhaps is the most prolific of eggs.
Week after week and month after month see little or no inter-
mission of the daily deposit. Even the process of moulting is
sometimes insufficient'to draw off the nutriment the creature
takes to make feathers instead of eggs. From their great apti-.
tude for laying, and also from the very little disposition they show
to sit, it is believed, that these birds in their native country;
; (Africa) do not sit at all on their eggs, but leave them to- be
hatched by the sun.

It is not every one who knowsacock from a hen of this
species, An unerring rule is, that the hen alone uses the call
note ‘come back,”’ ‘‘come back,” accenting the second syllable

GUINEA FOWL, 538

strongly. The cock has only the harsh shrill cry of alarm,
which, however, is also common to the female,

There is one circumstance, in regard to the habits of the guinea
cock, that is, he pairs only with his mate in most cases, like a
partridge or a pigeon. In the case where a guinea cock and two
hens are kept, it will be found, on close observation, that though
the three keep together so as to form one pack, yet that the cock
and one hen will be unkind and stingy to the other unfortunate
female, keep her at a certain distance, merely suffering her
society. The neglected hen will lay eggs, in appearance, like
those of the other, in the same nest. If they are to be eaten, all
well and good; but if a brood is wanted and the eggs of the
despised one chance to be taken for the purpose of hatching, the
result is disappointment and addled eggs.

It is best to hatch the eggs of the guinea fowl under a hen of
some other species; a Bantam hen makes a first class mother,
being lighter, and less likely to injure the eggs by treading on
them than a full sized fowl. She will well cover nine eggs, and
incubation will last about a month.

' Feed the chicks frequently, five or six times a day is not too
often, they have such extraordinary powers of digestion, and
their growth is so rapid, that they require food every two hours.
A check once received can never be recovered. In such cases
they do not mope and pine, for a day or two, like young turkeys
‘ undersimilar circumstancesand then die; but inhalf an hourafter,
being in apparent health, they fall on their backs, give a convul-
sive kick or two, and fall victims to starvation. Hard-boiled
egg, chopped fine, small worms, bread crumbs, chopped meat,
or suet, whatever, in short, is most nutritious, is their most
appropriate food,

BA, DOMESTIO GOOSE,

THE DOMESTIC GOOSE.

THE DOMESTIC GOOSE,

‘With respect to the range and accommodation of geese, they
require a house apart from other fowls, and a green pasture,
with a convenient pond or stream of water attached. The house
must be situated ina dry place, for geese at all times, are fond
of a clean, dry place to sleep in, however much they may like to
swim in water. It is not a good method to keep geese with other
poultry; for when confined in the poultry-yard, they become very
pugnacious, and will very much harrass the hens and turkeys, é

In allowing geese to range at large, itis well to know that they.
are very destructive to all garden and farm crops, as -well as to

DOMESTIC GOOSE. 55

“young trees, and must, therefore, be carefully excluded from
orchards and cultivated fields: It is usual to prevent them get-
ting through the gaps in fences, by hanging a stick or ‘“‘yoke’’
across their breast,

Those who breed geese, generally assign one gander to four or
five females. When well fed, ina mild climate, geese will lay
twice or three times a year, from five to twelve eggs each time,
and some more, that is, when they are left to their own way; but
if the eggs be carefully removed as soon as laid, they may be
made, by abundant feeding, to lay from twenty to fifty eggs
without intermitting. They begin to lay early in the spring,
usually in March, and it may be known when an individual is
about to lay, by her carrying about straws to form her nest with;
but, sometimes, she will only throw them about.

When a goose is observed to keep her nest longer than ueual,
after laying an egg, it is a pretty sure indication that she is
desirous of sitting. The nest for hatching should be made of
clean straw, lined with hay, and from fourteen to eighteen eggs
will be as many as a large goose can conveniently cover. She sits
about one month, and requires to have food and water placed
near her, that she may not be so long absent as to allow the eggs
to cool. The most economical way of getting a great number of
goslings, is to employ turkey hens to hatch, and keeping the
goose well fed she will continue laying.

Goslings must be kept from cold and rain as much as pos-
sible. Feed them on barley or Indian meal or crusts of bread
soaked in milk.

VARIETIES.
African; Toulouse; Embden; Egyptian; White Chinese; Brown
Chinese.

6s DUCK.

THE DUCK.

MUSCOVY DUCE.

It is not in all situations that Ducks can be kept with advan-
tage; they require water much more, even, than the goose; they
are no grazers, yet they are hearty feeders. Nothing comes
amiss to them in the way of food: green vegatables; kitchen
scraps; meal of all sorts made into a paste; grains; bread; worms;
insects; all are accepted with eagerness, Their appetite is not at
all fastidious; in fact they eat most everything, and eat all they.
oan, They never need cramming, give them enough, and they
will cram themselves; but remember, confinement will not do
for them; they must have room, and plenty of it, also a large

DUCE, 57

pond or stream, if you have these requirements they can be kept
at little expense.

Where they have much extent of water or shrubbery to roam
over, they should be looked after and driven home at night, and
provided with proper houses or pens; otherwise they are liable
tw Jay and sit abroad. As they usually lay either at night, or
very early in the morning, it is a good way to secure their eggs,
to confine them during the period when they must lay, a eircum-
stance easily ascertained by feeling the vent.

COMMON DUCK.

The duck is not naturally disposed to incubate, but in order
to induce her to do so, you may, towards the end of the laying,
leave two or three eggs in the nest, taking care every morning
to take away the oldest laid, that they may not be spoiled,
When she shows a desire to sit, from eight to ten eggs may be

58 : DUCK.

given according to the size of the duck, and her ability to cover.
them, The duck requires some care when she sits; for as she
cannot go to her food, attention must be paid to place it before
her; and she will be content with it, whatever be its quality; it
has been remarked that when ducks are too well fed, they will not
sit well. The period of incubation is about thirty days.

WILD DUCK.

The duck is apt to let her eggs get cold, when she hatches
and many thereby are lost, this together. with the fact of ber
often leading the ducklings into the water immediately after
they are excluded from the shell and thus losing many if the
weather is cold, often induces poultry keepers to have duck eggs |
hatched by hens or turkey hens; and being more assiduous than
ducks, these borrowed mothers take an affection for the young,
to watch over, which requires great attention because as these
are unable to accompany them on the water, for which they show
the greatest propensity as soon as they are excluded, they follow
the mother hen on dry land, and get a little hardy before they
are allowed to take to the water without any guide,

The best mode of rearing ducklings depends very much upon
the situation in which they are hatched, For the first month, |

DUCK. 59

the confinement of their mother, under a coop is better than too
much liberty, All kinds of sopped food, buckwheat flour, Indian
or barley meal and water mixed thin, worms, &c., suit them,

When ducklings have been hatched under a common hen, or
a turkey hen and have at last been allowed to go into the water,
it is necessary, to prevent accidents, to take care that such duck-
lings come regularly home every evening; but precautions must
be taken before they are permitted to mingle with the old ducks
lest the latter ill-treat and kill them, though ducks are by no
Means 50 pugnacious and jealous of new-comers as common fowls
uniformly are.

VARIETIES.

Roven Ducxs.—The flesh is abundant and of good flavor; good
specimens will dress from five to seven pounds each.

Arizssury Ducxs.— These are considered the most valuable
of the English breeds and is well thought of in this country.
They are good layers, but do not weigh quite as much as the
Rouen breed. ; :

Cayuaa Ducxs—These are the finest of the American breeds,
they are also the largest and most valuable of the duck family.
They weigh generally from eight to ten pounds, are good layers,
and easily raised.

The other varieties are the Mandarin; Carolina; Muscov?; Call
Duck; Black East India.

The duck is peculiarly the poor man’s bird (its hardihood ren-
ders it so entirely independant of that care which fowls perpet-
ually require); and indeed of all those classes of persons in humble
life, who have sloppy offal of some sort left from their meals,
and who do not keep a pig to consume it. Ducks are the best
save-waste for them; even the refuse of potatoes, or any other
vegetables will satisfy a duck, which thankfully accepts, and
with a degree of good virtue which it is pleasant to contemplate,

60 DUCE,

swallows whatever is presented to it, and very rarely occasions "
trouble. Though fowls. must be provided with a roof and a

decent habitation, and supplied with corn, which is costly, the

cottage garden waste, and the snails and slugs which are gener-
ated there, with the kitchen scraps and offal, furnish the hardy
ducks with the means of subsistence. And at night they require

no better lodgings than a nook in an open shed; if a house be

expressly made for them, it need not necessarily be more than

afew feet in height, nor of better materials than rough boards

and clay mortar, a door being useless, unless to secure them

from thieves, :

POINTS OF POULTRY. 61

POINTS OF POULTRY.

A—Neck hackle. B—Saddle hackle. C—Tail. D-—Breast.
H—-Upper Wing coverts. /—Lower Wing coverts. G—Pri-
mary quills, H—Thighs, L—Legs. K—Comb. L—Wattles.
H—Far-lobe.

62 DICTIONARY.

Dictionary of Poultry Terms.

Brarp.—A bunch of feathers under the throat of some breeds,
as Houdans or Polish.

Brezep.—Any variety of fowl presenting distinct characteris- «
tics. :

Broop.—The number of birds hatched at once; a family of
young chickens,

Broopy.—When the hen desires to sit she is said to be
broody.

.CarriacE.—The upright attitude or bearing of a fowl.

CARUNCULATED.—Having a fleshy excrescence or protuber-,
ances, as on the neck of a turkey-cock. j

Cuick.—A very young fowl.

Cu1ozEN.—A name applied to fowls until they are full grown.

Ciurcu.—The eggs placed under a sitting hen, also the brood
hatched therefrom.

CockxrReEL.—A young cock. .

Cocx.—The full grown male bird.

Comsz.—The crest or red fleshy tuft growing on top of a
fowl’s head. ;

Crest.—A top-knot of feathers, as on the head of the Polands,

Crop.—The first stomach of a fowl, through which the food
must pass before the process of digestion begins.

Drar-rars.—Folds of skin hanging from the true ears, vary:
ing in color.

Duszrine.—To cut off the comb, wattles, &c » leaving the head
smooth.

Ean-Losxs.—Folds of skin hanging from the ears,

DICTIONARY. 63

Facr.—The bare skin extending from the top of the bill
around the eyes.
FLiGHt-FEATHERS.—The primary wing feathers, used in
flying.
Fiurrs.—The downy feathers around the thighs.
GILis.—A term sometimes applied to the wattles; the flap
that hangs below the beak.
HacxiEs.—The peculiar narrow feathers on a fowl’s neck.
HEN-FEATHERED.—A cock, which owing to the. absence of
sickle feathers resembles a hen. :
Henny.—The same as hen-feathered.
Hocx.—The elbow joint of the leg,
Kert..—The breast bone.
Lrea.—The shank.
LxreG-FEATHERS.—Feathers growing on the outside of the
shank. - :
Mossy.—Uncertain marking.
Pra-coms.—A tripple comb.
PEncitine.—Small stripes running over a feather.
Povutt.—-A young turkey.
Primaries.—The same as flight-feathers,
PuriEet.—A young hen.
Roostrr.—A word used in the United States to designate the
male fowl; generally called cock. -
SappLE.—The posterior of the back, the feathers that cover it
are termed saddle-feathers.
SECONDARIES.—The quill-feathers of the wing, which show
when the fowl] is at rest.
_Suanx.—The leg. :
SICKLE-FEATHERS.—The upward curving feathers of a cock’s
tail. :
’ - §pane.Ep.—Spots on each feather of a different color from
' that of the ground color of the feather.

64 DICTIONARY.

‘ SpuR.—A sharp bone protruding from the-heel of a cock,
Srramw.—A race of fowls that has been bred for years un-
mixed with other breeds.
TaiL-CovERTS,—The curved feathers at the sides of the bottom
of the tail.
TaIL-FEATHERS.—The straight feathers of the tail.
TuieoHs.—The upper part of the shanks,
Top-xNnoT.—The same meaning as crest.
TRIo.—One cock and two hens.
VULTURE-HOCK.—BStiff projecting feathers at the hock-joint,
Warties.—The red fleshy excrescence that ‘Brows under the
throat of a cock or a turkey. :
Wine-Bar.—A dark line across the middle of the wing.
Wina-covenrs.—The feathers covering the roots of the second-

ary quills.

FOULTRY-KEEPING. 65

POULTRY-KEEPING.

Any person who takes up poultry-keeping should have some
end in view; should either keep fowls for showing and prize-
taking, or for laying and fattening. Fowls for domestic use and
fowls for exhibition are two totally different things, and call for
entirely different methods of treatment.

In this small book I wish to adhere as much as possible to the
business of poultry-keeping on @ small scale within the means
of all people living in the country, and having a little ground of
their own. —

If there is a farm-yard to fall back on, and the birds are not
kept by themselves, but are allowed to-run with the other in-
mates of that yard, having a hen-house in which to roost, lay,
and sit, then your cares are reduced toa minimum. As all who
might and should keep poultry, have, however, no farm, but only
a garden and a plot of ground, I will not say any more about
the old farmyard system, but suppose that the. fowls have to be
kept on a small scale without the foregoing advantages. Much
depends on the purpose for which fowls are kept, if for show
and prize-taking, or merely for domestic uses, for table and for
eggs. . ;

- If for show, then the different breeds must be kept thoroughly
pure, entirely distinct, and great attention given to points
- generally. A higher class of fowl must be purchased in the
’ first instance; the diet must be more generous, size being a great
- point with judges; and the whole business of poultry-keeping ie

66 POULTRY-KEEPING. +

; placed on a more costly footing, and becomes an: expensive’ and
but rarely a remunerative amusement; whereas in merely keep- ;
ing a small stock of fowls for table use—the first and original
outlay of purchase and house-building- overcome—you should,.
and can easily, have, with a little trouble, a small profit each
month after the necessary food is paid for.

Thave done both myself: kept fowls for general use—ordinary
common birds, mostly cross-bred—and kept purely-bred birds to
show, and I have no hesitation in saying that the former is the
best plan, unless, of course, you are a poultry fancier and have
money enough to allow you to indulge your mania for prize birds;
then; with highly-bred stock, you may look to the sale of eggs
and the taking of prizes to, ina measure, recoup you for your
outlay. I was fairly successful with the high-class birds I
purchased, and got good prices for the sitting of eggs I sold, as
also for the birds themselves when I parted with them; but I
cannot honestly say I consider the keeping up of select and dis-
tinct sorts is worth the trouble it entails—that is, if you do the
work of looking after them yourself, Mine, I know--I
could not afford to keep a poultry-man — led me a sad
dance. I was always in trouble with them; they had separate
houses and runs, but unless I was near while the different sorts
were having their outing there was sure to be some disturbance,
a fight between the cocks through the bars and netting, and this
very likely occurred just before I wanted to show one of them,
when featherless heads and wounded bleeding combs would be
the result; and the hens too were nearly as pugilistic. . Some one
will probably remark, ‘‘Mismanagement.”? Possibly; but I had
not all the proper arrangements-a regular prize poultry-breeder’,
would have, and even in the very best regulated poultry-yards

accidents will, we know, occur, and so these creatures were a
perpetual torment to me,

POULTRY-KEEPING. 67

And when, after an interval of some years, I began poultry-
keeping again, I started on an entirely different plan and on a
very small scale. It is from my experience then gained that I
offer the following hints to those living in the country who wish
to keep poultry and yet do not mean to incur much expense in
so doing.

For general use I would say do not keep entirely to pure-bred
birds, but mix them with others; a good cross-breed is often
more desirable than a really pure breed; not only are the fowls
resulting from the cross stronger and less likely to become sickly
and degenerate, but you can, by a judicious selection in the cross
you allow, counteract many of the qualities you do not consider
quite desirable.

BEST BREEDS FOR MARKET.

‘I do not believe there are any better market fowl, all things
considered than the Langshans, next comes the Brahmas. The
Dorkings are a superior table fowl, but are tender and hard to
rear.

EGG PRODUCERS.

The Black Spanish; Polands; Houdans and Hamburgs_—« ail
inveterate layers; but the Black Spanish and Hambu. gs are

68 ~ POULTRY-KEEPING.

rather tender, and more fit for the fancier than for the practical
man, Fora desirable “all round’’ breed, I should recommend
the Plymouth Rocks. At any rate I have described the different
breeds, given you their good and bad points, and you may take

your choice. a

SORTS FOR SMALL YARDS.

If you have only a limited space to allow for your birds, do not
keep too many at first. Possibly, as you find your poultry,
answer, you may wish to considerably increase your stock, and
80 will have to enlarge your premises, which by that time you
may be able'to do; besides, you will have gained experience
during the time you have been looking after a limited number,
and will have learned many things respecting the nature of fowls,
their habits, diseases, constitutions, and general characteristics,’
of which before you were entirely ignorant. we ’

My own opinion is, I own, entirely against a very large poultry-
farm. I should always prefer having a small one under my own
immediate eye to possessing a quantity of birds and being obliged
to keep a man or woman to look after them. ;

If people want to lose money by poultry let them mass them in
numbers, and they will soon gain the desired result. If, on the
contrary, they will be content with modest profits, and patiently.
turn over pennies instead of expecting to turn over dollars, then
Jet them keep poultry ona small scale, attend to them themeelevs,

POULTRY-KEEPING. 69

spare no pains or trouble in looking after and thoroughly under-
standing the requirements of their stock, and they need not
fear but that the result will be satisfactory.

To buy pens, nests, rent land, pay a man to look after the
stock, waste money in sundries and expensive food, bay useless
items, and hand over all trouble to subordinates, ts not the way
to make poultry pay.

While, on the other hand, to look after a little poultry-yard
yourself, to vary the food by economising all kitchen refuse,
buying up cargo rice and second-class grain—which is really
quite good enough for fowls, and better suited to them than very
good barley, oats, or wheat—never to allow food to be wasted,
nor to keep an old and useless stuck, ts the way to insure certain
smau profits, if those will content you:

In trying to grasp too much you stand a chance of losing even
more than the original outlay. A great many people, who have
now little plots of ground suitable for fowls, but standing empty,
are deterred from keeping poultry by the idea that it isso expen-
sive a proceeding, and that they will eventually be out of pocket
by it. So they will, certainly, if they commence on too large a
scale; but if they began witha dozen or two dozen fowls, and

-and kept the original stock down to that number, only allowing
the chickens for killing during the season, and pullets for laying
to swell the numbers each year, then we should hear less about
poultry expenses, and more about eggs and chickens.

Now with regard to commencing operations, Branmas, LEc-
HORNS, PLymoutH Rocss and LanesHans are the fowls I should
keep. Brahmas as winter layers, good sitters, and good mothers;
Plymouth Rocks as good all round, and Langshans are especially ,
for table. 7 ‘

_ The number of hens I would allow to each cock would be;

’ Leghorns, twelve hens to each cock; Brahmas, eight hens to one

- cock; Plymouth Rocks, six hens to one cock; Langshans, six

hens to one cock.

70 FIRST OUTLAY,

THE FIRST OUTLAY.

y

If you have an adaptable outhouse, which can, with a little
contrivance and a little money spent on it, be turned into a fowl-
house, you are indeed lucky, for you will then for a few dollars,
say fifteen at the outside, be abie to fit it with perches and nests,
and see to the flooring, roofing and ventilation. ~

Your nests, of strong wickerwork or straw, will not cost you
more than 25 cents each. You should have twelve at first.

,You can easily have more if you want them for sitting purposes,
~ but you certainly will not require'a nest for each hen, An old
saucepan for cooking the food your kitchen will probably sup-
ply. Your water-pans should be of common strong yellow
stoneware.

If you have no run, you must inclose one with wire, and this
will be rather expensive; but your fowls, if they are to be kept
in a certain degree of confinement, must have exercise, so a run
or yard is an absolute necessity.

You should have a door in the run, at one of the ends adjoin-
ing the house, and a door besides in the house itself, with an
opening in it, closed by a slide, for the fowls to go in and out as
they like.

In the run must be the sheltered place for the dust-bath and
for the birds to run under in case of rain. (See ‘Houses and

FIRST OUTLAY. "1

Yards.’’). This inclosure I should not have covered at the top.

The height of three rows of ‘wire, one on top of the other—¢..
é., 72 inches—will be quite high enough to prevent heavy birds
getting out over; and the Hamburghs, whoare by nature great
roamers, must have their wings clipped; it will not improve their
appearance, but, as they are not kept for showing, that will not
much matter. The wire netting you will be able to fix yourself
with a little help, unless you are lone women in the house, in
which case you will have to get some man who is cleveratdoing —
odds and ends of work to help you.

It ts a fatal error to cramp fowls, Better far to have a small

- healthy family of poultry than a largesickly one. Ifafew birds

are well looked after and made comfortable they will be more

likely to pay than a number badly kept and allowed too little
room.

If from want of space or want of money you can only keep a
few fowls, do not be discouraged. A cock and a couple or three
or four hens will not eat much, but on the principle of “every
little helps’”’ the eggs and two or three broods of chickens from
them in the year will be something; they will give you amusement
in looking after them, and if you do not sell but merely eat the
eggs and the chickens, they will help out the household bilisand
pay for the extra food you will require; for with only three or
four birds, household scraps, if carefully economised, anda little
grain daily, will be quite enough to keep them healthy.

There are a great number of poultry-books, and very excellent
ones too; but most of them are written with the object of instruc-
ting would-be poultry-keepers in the method of keeping a large
number of fowls, but few hints being given to people who can
only afford to keep a few, and those not for exhibition andshow, .
but really for use. It is, however just these small poultry-keep-
ers we want to see multiplied in America, for until poultry- :
keeping becomes a national industry—which it cannot unless

12 t FIRST OUTLAY. i

taken up by the million—so long will the money which should
be kept in the country be sent out of it for eggs and chickens,
more particularly for the former articles.

Poultry-farming on a large scale has been tried often in America,
of late years more especially, but hitherto it has not proved very
successful; it does not do so, though, in other countries. When
‘fowls are massed they become unhealthy; this has been proved
very frequently. It is not poultry-farming on an extensive plan,
however, that I advocate, but general fowlkeeping. I would
wish to see every laborer with his few fowls, ‘making’ a little
extra money by the eggs and chickens they produce. Todo this,
‘however, profitably there must be thrift, and in this valuable
quality I fear the Americansasa nation are found wanting. Our
cooking is by no means good or economical; this is a well-known
fact. Where a French peasant’s wife will set her husbafid down
to appetising food, be it only a tasty potage, an American mecha-
nic’s wife will put before hers ill-cooked food costing far more, but
less nourishing from the fact of its being so badly dressed. Here
is a decided want of thrift. So in poultry-keeping, peasants in
France Keep a cock and a few. hens asa matter of course, but
feed them very economically on. household and garden scraps,
various odds and ends, and go make them not only pay their
way, but help in the housekeeping. besides. Unfortunately we
asa nation do not care to trouble over small matters, or ‘attend
to the merest details, as the French do; yet it is just this atten-
tion to trifles which makes poultry-keeping on a small scale pay.

It is-far better to attend to everything yourself—in fact, unless
you have plenty of money and can have an experienced man or
woman to look after your stock, you must do so, Leave nothing
undone for the comfort of your birds, and go through your daily
work in your poultry-yard regularly and methodically.

HOUSES AND YARDS, 73

HOUSES AND YARDS.

If you have to build a fowl-house it need not be in any way
an expensive erection. Let it be, if possible, built’ on to an
outside wall of the house, s«y with its back to the kitchen or
greenhouse, in such a position as to insure some degree of
warmth to the inmates. Let the floor be dry, the roof weatler-
_ tight, and the ventilation good, and your fowls will be sure to

do well in it. The cheapest material to make it of would be
rough boards. The roof can | also be boarded, only in that. case it
should be covered with felt. The holes for ventilation should be
so placed that the birds feel no cold air on them while roosting.
Such a house should measure at least eight feet square, and the
roof should slope from about seven to five feet. The door should
lock, and a trap-door should be made in it for the hens to go in:
and out at will: this trap-door should be a sliding one, and easily
elosed when required, at night being always kept shut for fear
of foxes, cats, &e.

Perches should be round poles, not less than four or five inches
in diameter, and should not be set too. high up—an error into
‘which many people fall. Three feet from the ground is ‘quite
high-enough for the most elevated perch, and there should be
others lower, two and a half feet and two feet from thé ground

If perches are too high, heavy fowls cannotfly up to them with
ease, and in descending are certain in time to injure themselves,
bending or breaking the breastbone and injuring their feet.

The floor should not be of brick, stone, or wood, but of beaten

44 HOUSES AND YARDS.

earth well battened down until it presents a perfectly. smooth,
hard surface, which should be swept out carefully daily and
sanded or sprinkled with fine sifted ashes. If, however, you
have to. build a house for your birds, there being no outhouse
you can turn into.a fowl-house, then you might prepare a floor
of either chalk battened down until quite hard, the ground being
dug out to the depth of a foot and filled in with the chalk, ever
which should be spread sifted ashes or sand; or else fillin the
space dug out with burnt clay, also thorsnghly rammed down
and spread over with a wet mass of cinders, fine gravel, quick-
lime, and water; this when dry forms 4 very good floor.

The nests should'be arranged so that they are screened from
view and darkened, not placed high up for the same reason as
before given with regard to the perches, and they should have a
ledge in front of. them for the hen to step on before going into

-her nest or on leaving it, else in flying down eggs are frequently
dragged out and broken in the fall; and if chickens are batched
high up they are liable to creep out of the nest, fall down, and
die. Soft straw is the best lining for nests, as it does not harbor.

insects so much as hay._ It should be frequently changed unless
hens are sitting, ‘and then it is best not to disturb the hen, or she
may forsake her nest. Nest-eggs of stone or china are easily
procured, ‘and should be kept.. Many hens will not lay in a nest
unléss there is an egg already in it, and will forsake a nest they
have been laying in if all the eggs are removed. Some people
leave in the nest an ordinary egg, but this plani is most objection-.
able; it imparts to the nest a musty smell, and gives also-a taste
of must to those fresh eggs which are laid in it, and which,
though really fresh in themselves, have thus a disagreeable odor:
and taste, quite leading one to suppose that they were stale.

‘This is the reason why so many eggs brought to table have this
defect; people will not take the trouble to change the straw in
the nest often enough, Besides all this there is the danger of

HOUSES AND YARDS, "6

the stale nest egg breaking, which if it does, the nest, and even
the whole hen-house, will become offensive. “A stone nest-egg
can always be kept in a nest, and if a hen wants to sit, a few
placed under her form a good trial of her steady sitting powers,
and settle her on her nest before the real eggs she has to hatch
out are placed under her.

If you keep more than one sort of fowl you must have divisions
in your houses, | If it is built either agaifist the kitchen wall, or
back to some room in which there is in winter constantly a fire,
the effect of the warmth will be apparent in the greater ‘number
of eggs your hens will lay during the cold weather. Orthe hen-.
house could be built on to a greenhouse wall which is kept
heated in the winter. The nests should be resting against the
warm back wall, and the birds roosting on the perches will also
feel the benefit of the heat. It is astonishing how mueh fowls
enjoy warmth, This is the reason why cottager’s fowls lay
often very much earlier than those kept by amateurs, because
they are generally kept in a lean-to outhouse built against the
cottage wall close to the fireplace. The fowls by this means get
the warmth of the fire, and in some cases they actually roost in
the kitchen. All poultry-keepers could have their fowl-houses
run-up outside some fireplace or flue, which would keep the birds
warm without the expense of an extra fire.

Yard or Run.—If fowls are not allowed free range, which is
not always possible on account.of gardens or neighbors, a space
should be inclosed for them, either fenced off with wooden
pailings or wire netting. In this run should be a plot of , grass,
and if possible a shrub or two for the birds to. pick insects off.
If the space allows of -it there should be a small covered shed in
one corner for the fowls to run under during the rain, as fowls
cannot endure damp, and under this shed should be the dust-bath,
Itisa downright necessity for all birds to roll or bathe in thé dust,

%6 FOOD.

They are very particular about their toilets. This may sound to
some absurd, but it is most important, No fowls will keep in
health unless they are clean, and by rolling in fine dust andashes, -
and eqvering themselves with them, they clean themselvés and
getrid of the fleas and parasites with which they are always more
or less infested. Fowls that are allowed their eutire freedom
always make dust-heaps for themselves, and retire to them _
daily.

If it is possible to have a little running stream conducted
through this yard then you may indeed consider yourself fortu-
nate, but most likely you will have to content yourself with pots
and pans for water. Let these be shallow, and change the water
frequently. The qnestion of coops for chickens I have considered
in the chapter on Hatching, but I may mention here that the ~
shed in the yard would be a very good place for mother hen and
her family when the weather was damp. A shed need not bean
expensive building. -A few rough poles, with a felt roof, could
be easily made by any one, and it is a very great boon to fowls.
It need not be of any gréat size or height, only the roof should
have a considerable slope for the rain to run off.

=

FOOD.

Overfeeding is as great a mistake as underfeeding. Three
times a day is quite enough to feed old fowls: a good meal in
the early morning, another before going to roost, and a midday
feed. Many people, however, only feed twice; this, if the fowls

FOOD. vei

“have a farmyard to dig and forage about in, is enough, but in
limited space I should certainly feed three times, giving grain
for the last meal as more sustaining and stimulating. Chickens,
of course, require food much more frequently. .

Before I describe the various sorts of food suitable for poultry,
a few general directions will be advisable,

Feed regularly—that is, at stated hours—and do not get into
the habit of giving handfuls of grain in and out in the course of
the day; if you do so you will spoil the birds’ digestion.

A supply of pure fresh water is another absolute necessity.
Every day in winter the pans should be washed out and filled
with fresh water, twice a day in summer if the weather is very
hot. =.

All poultry like @ change of diet, and should on no account be
fed day after day with the ‘same food; as fowls are not fastidious,
but will eat nearly any food, there is no possible reason why a
variety of: food should not be given them, and it is certain they
will thrive and do better when their tastes are consulted a
little. :

Rice is a cheap food, but is not very nutritious, therefore
should be given mixed. with other foods; it may, however, be
considered as an excellent food for fowls which are not kept up
for show purposes, and if poultry are suffering at all from diarr-
hoa should be at once given instead of their ordinary food. Rice,
whenever given, should be cooked as the raw grain is most inju-
rious, and by swelling in the crop after it has been swallowed
often: makes the fowl ‘“‘crop-bound.”? It should be prepared
thus:—Boiled until the grains are completely separated, not in
hard lumps, but easy for the birds to pick up when scattered
about in the yard; a piece of dripping dissolved in the water in
which the rice is boiled has a wonderfully softening effect on it.
In winter I always mix a little coarse black pepper with the
cooked rice. Fowls in cold weather need stimulants; and

18 FOOD.

pepper, when given in sparing, quantities, is very good for them.
Rice can often be purchased very cheaply; many grocers sell
what they term “fowl-rice,”’ but if you are tolerably near a sea-
port you can very often get the chance of buying damaged
“cargo” rice, which, though possibly just a little injured by sea-
water, is still excellent food “for poultry. I have ranked rice
first because of its cheapness. Of the different sorts of corn
barley is the least expensive, but it is too heating to feed fowls
on it alone; it should be ground into meal, mixed with water
and fine bran or scraps, and given in a crumbly state, not too
moist nor yet too lumpy. ,

Cooked or prepared food is good for all live stock of all de-
scriptions, for experience proves it to be more nutritious from
the changes effected, and therefore more readily digested. One
writer advises the following mixture:—

One peck of fine middlings and half a peck of barley-meal
placed in a coarse earthenware pan and baked for one hour, then
boiled water is poured in and the whole stirred together until it
becomes a crumbly mass—or the baked middlings can be mixed
with rice, previously boiled—two meals of this mixture might be
given each day, and one meal of grain.

Oats are good for laying hens, but to my mind are best ground;
it is not at first a favorite food with poultry, but they soon ac-
quire the taste, and it is even more nourishing than barley, but
also more expensive. Oatmeal is considered wonderfully good
and fattening diet, and in Ireland is generally used for poultry—
that is, when they are kept up for market, the meal is mixed
with milk and mashed potatoes. In oats there is as great an
amount of starch as in barley, more flesh-forming substance, and
more fat-producing matter.

Light Wheat is the grain I prefer for poultry-food; but, alas! it
is not easy to procure, though it is cheap as far as price goes.
If you have a farmer living near you he may perhaps let you have

FOOD, 19

some as a favor; but, as a rule, farmers keep it for feeding their
own poultry, and do not care to sell it at all,

Buckwheat and Hempseed are very good, the latter to be given
during moulting, but they are too expensive to be given fre-
quently.

Indian Corn is good and economical food, but too fattening to

be used much; as a change, though, it is desirable; its usual
cheapness, compared with the price of our home-grown grains,

commends it in some places; it should not however, be given .
whole, but ground into meal and mixed with water or milk.

Linseed is chiefly given to prize fowls and those intended ‘for
exhibition; it increases the secretion of oil, and wae: their.
plumage shine and look glossy.

Potatoes steamed and mashed are very nourishing, but rather
expensive.

Bullock’s Liver boiled and cut up into small pieces may be
given with much advantage once or twice a week to birds kept
in small inclosures.

Mait is one of the best things for poultry, but not very easy to -
procure; if, however; you are near a brewery you will not have
so much difficulty in obtaining it. It induces early and contin-
ued laying; should be given sparingly, either bruised or whole,
about two handfuls for every six fowls; it can be mixed with the
ordinary food. For chickens also it is desirable, about one :
handful to every six; if they are fledging it assists them in

, putting on feathers, and at all times helps their growth.

Milk should be constantly given—that is, where a cow or cows
are kept, otherwise perhaps it would be rather an expensive -
addition to the cost of poultry-keeping; but if the food is wetted
with fresh milk, or a little warm milk stirred into the rice or

. various meals in use, it-is astonishing how very much farther
the food goes, for it gives a satisfying property to it, andis most

80 ‘ FOOD.

nourishing, especially for the younger members of your fowl
family.

Green foods are‘all good, and should be given daily: chopped
cabbage, clover-heads, turnip-tops, lettuce, turnips, boiled or
steamed, form also a good change of diet, and grass fresh cut
from lawns, or a handful plucked and thrown into the yard now
and then, will be-much appreciated. Fowls, as E said before,
are by no means fastidious in their tastes; grain, soft, animal,
and green foods all come alike to. them; worms, maggots, and
slugs are also delicacies; but not very often procurable, though
French poultry-keepers and others take the trouble to form
heaps of earth, manure, dead leaves, and so on, on purpose to
generate supplies of worms with which to feed their fowls.

To those who would keep fowls economically, and yet profi-
tably, I say save all table and house scraps. Ifyou do not keep
a pig you'will have plenty for the fowls: crusts of bread, stale

. pieces, scraps of meat, fish, vegetables, bones broken up, soup
bones, after-they have been used and their goodness extracted by
‘boiling down for stock, yet contain no small share of nourish-

“ment; broken and pounded till small, they are almost necessities
for fowls kept in partial confinement.

If you feed fowls on grains and expensive meals you cannot
expect a profit from them; but if, on the contrary, you utilize
house-scraps—which would otherwise be wasted—and give green
food, you will be a considerable gainer; if you have to buy all
the.food, of course you will find poultry-keeping rather an ex-
pensive amusement instead of a paying one.

My poultry family I feed in this fashion—that is, the stock
birds—the chickens, of course, have more delicate food, and that
more frequently given:— }

, First meal, given about 7 a. m.—fowls are early risers—is of
grain, inferior barley, or wheat-tailings, or meal in a crumbly
state.

FOOD, 81

Second meal, midday, of soft food, pickings, such as bread,
sops, meat and fish scraps, with either barley, oats, or Indian
meal mixed with it, or else boiled rice, peppered in winter.

Third meal, before going to roost, grain. I vary the food as
much as possible, sometimes giving two meals of grain and one
of soft food, at other times two meals of soft mixture and one
of grain, and at least once a week give chopped liver, well boiled
but fresh—not in the horrible putrid state some people suggest.
I could not fancy eating a fowl fed on carrion myself, though I
know it is frequently done; but the flesh on fowls so fed must,
one would naturally think, be gross and rank-tasting.

Water should be plentifully supplied fresh and pure and the
pans refilled frequently in summer; in winter all water-pans
should be emptied out at night, as, if the water freezes in them
they often crack or break. |

Lime and mortar rubbish or broken oyster shells should be freely
scattered about the yards, also gravel and small stones. Fowls,
like to pick such things up; besides, it is necessary that they eat |
some shel]-forming material or their eggs will be soft, which is
very often the case if such substances are not provided. I do
not believe in cooking or grinding all the grain foods, and should.
certainly give wheat-tailings or inferior small barley in its
natural state. If the birds could not digest it they would not
have been provided by Nature with an elaborate apparatus for
softening and grinding it. If we feed entirely on moist food
even fowls in confinement, we must weaken the action of the
gizzard by not giving it enough work todo. The two extremes
of feeding entirely on cooked and moistened food, or entirely on
grain or hard food, are both mistakes; vary the food, and allow
only one meal of solid grain, which should be given either as
the first or last meal, but do not so completely interfere with
Nature’s laws, as to weaken an organ which is purposely pro-
‘vided to render the natural food wholesome. By allowing

82 FOOD.

plenty of lime and mortar rubbish in your yards, small stones,
and so on, your fowls, even in confinement, will be able to
digest a small portion of grain each. day. Iam well aware that
many poultry-fanciers say cook all food, but I am certain that too
much moistened food is not altogether good. I can only speak
from my own experience, and I never found the creatures under
my caresuffer from eating small whole uncooked grain once a
day.

The gizzard is a most powerful grinding-mill, being composed
of very thick muscles, and lined with a tough insensible coria-
ceous membrane. The two largest muscles which form the
grinding. apparatus are placed opposite each other, face to face,
just like two millstones, and they working on each other grind
_to a pulp the food which is subjected to their action and break
it down until it is ina fit state to be acted upon by the gastriv
juice, which ‘softens the grain. Until, however, it has gone
through Nature’s grinding-mill the gastric juices have no power
upon it to render it solvent. By giving food constantly which
does not require the action of this apparatus upon it to render it
wholesome we run the risk of injuring it by inaction: this surely
stands to reason. In the case of chickens even a little very
‘small grain should be given, that while the gizzard is growing
it may have something to act upon, and no grain is. so good for
this purpose as the tailings of wheat before-mentioned.

It is a bad practice to underfeed poultry, or, in fact, any
young stock; but, on the contrary, do not waste food ; scatter it
for them, and when they cease to run after it stop feeding them,
is a fairly good rule to goby. Itis said that one full-grown
bird will eat half-a-pint of grain each day, because, though it
may not positively consume that amount of grain—what with

meal-scraps, green stuff, &c.—it consumes food to, about that
value.

INCUBATION, 33

INCUBATION.

OF artificial incubation I may as well say at once I have had
no experience; therefore it is a subject of which I donot presume
to write; but I cannot think that it is at all adapted to very small
poultry-yards, for it must entail primary outlay, endless trouble
and considerable expense. On large farms it may answer, or
with persons who are bitten with the poultry mania, love trying
everything new that they hear of, and have more money than
they know what to do with unless they indulge in some hobby
or hobbies to help them in making away with it, The invention
of the artificial incubator cannot be considered, however, as a
new invention, for as early as 1848 Mr. Cantelo, manager of the
Model Poultry Farm at Chiswick, brought out the ‘‘Cantelonian
Hydro-Incubator,”’ and shortly afterwards Mr. Rouillier inven-
ted another—an improvement on the one named, Since then
their name has been Legion.

The old natural method of allowing the hen to sit on her eggs
and hatch out her small family is the only plan of which I have
had practical experience, and as being an entirely natural process
I cannot but think it the best, especially for poultry-Keepers on
a small scale.

There are very many little matters connected with eggs, and
* hatching them out, which can only be learnt by much practice
and long experience of domestic fowls, their manners and habits,

B4 INCUBATION.

This can only be gained by being constantly with them and
carefully watching them through all the various stages of their
lives.

It is never very difficult to procurea broody hen, Your Brahma
hens will most likely be quite willing to sit, probably more often
than you wish them to. Be careful, however, not to put
under her at once the eggs which you haye selected for your
sitting. She should be moved in at night,, placed on a
sitting of china eggs, and allowed to sit on them for at least
two days before you entrust: her with real eggs.

Now about the eggs themselves. Probably you have, out of
your family of hens, some that are better than the others, either
in shape and form, or more-+handsomely marked, or better layers,
or there is something or other about them, some distinguishing
point, which leads you to wish to perpetuate their stock. Their
eggs should, therefore, be saved; but do not keep eggs certainly
beyond a fortnight; the fresher the eggs the better, I believe.
Those you set apart for a sitting remove directly they are laid
and place them in bran, small end downwards, dating them in
ink, and adding the name ofthe hen. Does this sound absurd?
Possibly to people who know little and care less about fowls it
may, but those who keep a limited number I venture to say
would have their original family of birds named, either by names
caused by some distinguishing mark about the bird, or in groups
adhering to one initial letter.

When you have collected, say, thirteen eggs, which is quite
enough to put under any hen, though people do advise fifteen
for a large ben—too many really for a hen, though a turkey
would cover them comfortably—thirteen for a large Brahma hen,
and eleven for a smaller hen are the numberI usually place
under the hen, and find them quite enough. If a nest is too
full of eggs there is sure to be an accident: some eggs get broken
and the nes’. gets foul and sickly; besides, the hen covers a som-

INCUBATION, 85

pact nest of eggs much better, and they all get an equal share of
heat.

All the eggs placed under the hen should bo marked with
their proper dates. Have the eggs as near as possible in date, so
that the chicks may hatch out close together. <A great advan-
tage of marking the eggs is, that should the hen lay any when
first beginning to sit, or should other hens gain access to the nest,
the frésh eggs laid can be removed. Mr. James Long, a great
authority on poultry, advises that at the end often days the eggs

Should be tested. This should be done in the evening by the
light of a lamp, holding the egg betwixt the thumb and forefin-
ger of the righthand in front of the flame, and shading the large
end with the base of the left hand, the air-chamber is discovered;
this is apparerftly opaque, the rest of tho egg being dark and
heavy, the two portions being divided by aclear black line—thatis,
if the egg is fertile. If, on the other hand, the egg is light and
opaque throughout, or, in other words, exactly like a new-laid
egg when held before the same light, it is notfertile. This little
test is so simple that every one should adopt it, and use the eggs
found unfertile, not returning them to the nest. They are just
as edible and as wholesome as eggs laid on the same day but not
placed under a hen, and can always be used in the kitchen, being
quite as good if not better than the so-called “cooking eggs.”?
Sometimes, however, these unfertile eggs are not clear and edible,
but rotten; this can generally be detected. Ifthe egg, on being
tested in the manner described, is found neither clean nor fertile
with the dark line at the top, but without the dark line and dull

“throughout, especially in the centre, the whole mass within the
shell being in a movable state, its condition may be reasonably

‘suspected and it can be thrownaway. Thisstate may arise from
one or more cagises; it is fancied that it arises from the fertiliza-
tion being incomplete or weak, wanting sufficient strength to
break into positive life, but yet enough to affect the rest of the

86 INCUBATION.

egg, which, as in all cases in which any life has existed, decom.
poses, and in time engenders gas. Such eggs should be buried,
not thrown where they can be picked at by other birds.

It is a good plan to sit two or more hens at the same time; on
the tenth day you can test the eggs, and remove from both nests
the unfertile ones giving one hen all the other eggs and resitting
the other on afresh lot of eggs. Besides, if two hens sit at once,
one hen when they hatch out can take both broods, so you econ-
omige your stock of hens. I would never advise, as some people
do, that hen No. 2 should be given a fresh set of eggs and have to
sit another three weeks, for no hen could sit six weeks without
taxing her strength too much; this proceeding I look upon as a
downright cruel one.

»

Short-legged hens are the best for sitting, therefore Brahmas
and Dorkings make very good ‘‘broody’’ hens. Three weeks is
the usual time it takes for hens’ eggs to hatch, but they may
eithe: be a day or two before or a day or two after the twenty-
one days.

If possible have a sitting-house, or arrange that your sitting
hens are kept in a quiet, rather dark place, away from the other
‘birds, else you will have endless trouble; for if kept in the same
house in which the other hens lay, they will be constantly: inter-
fering with the sitting hens, trying to lay in the same nests, and
eggs are sure to be broken in the scuffle. Your sitter may prove
a little restless in a fresh place at first, but employ china eggs
for her to sit on until she is disposed to sit steadily, and she will
soon settle down, you will find, in her new nest, especially if she
be really “‘broody’’ or ‘“‘cluck.’”” And here it may be as well, per-
haps, to say a few words about “broody’’ hens, Sometimes they
are most tiresome, and very often this strong desire to sit, which
is termed storge, is so strong that no means you can try will abate
it. In such a case I should be tempted, even if I did not want
the chickens, to let the poor hen gratify her desire, and do as

INCUBATION, 87

the French acouveurs do. They only provide broods, but do not
rear them, selling their chickens at twenty-four hours old, and
sending them to the fermiere who has ordered them packed up

warmly in flannel in a small flat basket. Chickens, curiously
enough, travel’ very well at that early age, better even than when
they are older, because Nature provides them with nourishment
when they first hatch out, and they really need nothing till the

next day but to be kept snugand warm. When they reach their
destination, which must, of course, be within reasonable distance,

they are given at night to a hen who has a brood of chickens of
about the same age, who will, as a rule, welcome the addition
to het family with pleasure, seeming rather to delight in this

~ mysterious increase to her family. A hen is always very proud

of a large brood, and I have often noticed will apparently, inhen
language, crow over a less fortunate mother with only a few to

take care of.

T once had a hen who had only one chick. She got shut away
from her nest by accident, and was kept out so long’ that the
eggs were spoiled all but three, and from these were hatched
very weakly chicks. Two died in the act ‘of being liberated
from their shells, and the result of the sitting of thirteen eggs
was one chick, and that took a considerable amount of cosseting
and nursing before it became quite strong. It was most absurd.
tosee the mother, the fuss she made over her ove bantling: It
was a late sitting, and I had no other chicks ready to enlarge
her family. When the chick was a few days old, her favorite
mode of carrying it was on her back, and there the little creature
sat quite contentedly while the hen marched about. This went
on for months, until really the ‘single scion of the house of ‘Raca’’
was as strong as his mother. But the affection between the two
was toofunny. Even when he was a fine handsome éockerel,

about to be promoted to reign in the room of his father ‘“Raca’’
as Raca IL, or over another harem, his mother world insist. on

8&8 INCUBATION.

presenting him with scraps and dainties she had picked up. I
never knew a case in which the tie of relationship betwixt hen
and chick lasted so long.

To return tothe subject of ‘““broody’’ hens. I certainly wonder’ :
why here in America we do not adopt French methods with
regard to rearing poultry. We spend days, weeks, in trying to
cure 2 hen of wishing to sit, a perfectly natural inclination, very
often starving and really cruelly teasing the poor thing, while
all that time she might be fulfilling her end in life, and sitting
on a nest full of eggs. She does not cost more while she is sit-
ting, and, indeed, it is far more economical to employ her than
to chase the poor wretch off the nests, shut her up, ‘give her physic,
or otherwise torment her. You may argue, ‘‘Oh, but my hen
would lay again soon if I prevented her from sitting!’ Pardon
ome, but the hen certainly would not lay under a month, and pro-
ably not for six weeks, as she will pine at first and lose flesh from
the feverish anxiety of her state, will be some time before she gets
in condition again, and very often two or three months will elapse
before she will lay; whereas, after sitting, even if her chickens
are removed from her or she is,only left with one—perhaps you
feel inclined to allow her one or two after her trouble of sitting
so long—she will begin to lay again sooner than she would were
she laboring under the storge.. If it is very late in the season you
might get ducks’ eggs and sit your “broody’’ hen on them. Ducks
do better in cold, inclement weather than chickens, and when
sold bring ina good price. They cost more to fat, though, as
they are such ravenous feeders.

Sitting hens should have a. daily run. Do not remove them
forcibly from their fests, but let the door be open every day at
a certain hour for a certain time while you are about. Perhaps
for the first day or two you may have to take them gently off
their nests and deposit them on the ground outside the door.
They will soon, however, learn the habit, and come out when

INCUBATION. 89

the door is open, eat, drink, have a dust-bath, and return ‘to
theirnests. That this should be a daily performance is quite
necessary to their health and well-being, It is a very old and
mistaken notion to fancy that the chicks hatch out better if the
hen sits close and never leaves her nest, because it is not so; air,
food, exercise, and a rollin the dust are necessary to the hen’s
health, and the eggs will not come to any harm,

Some people, while hens are off their nests, damp the eggs
with lukewarm water. Moisture, they say, is necessary, and the.
chicks gain strength by the process. This may be correct, and,
in very dry weather, perhaps necessary. Myself I never fancied
it did much good, though I have tried the experiment; but I
consider it is a mistake to meddle too much.with nest or eggs;
the hen is only made restless and dissatisfied by so doing, and
the result is not such a very decidedly good one as to be.worth
the extra trouble. While the eggs are hatching out do not
touch the nests; it is very foolish to fuss the old bird and make
her angry, as she treads on the eggs in her fury, and crushes the,
chicks when they are in the most delicate state of hatching—
t¢é, when they are half in and half out of the shell, when a
heavy tread on the part of the old bird is nearly certain to kill
them.

Picking off the shell to help the imprisoned chick is always a
more or less hazardous proceeding, and should never be had
recourse to unless the egg has~ been what is termed. “‘billed”’
for a long time, in which case the chick is probably a weakly
one and may need a litile help, which must be given with the
greatest caution, in order that the tender membranes of the skin
shall not be lacerated. A little help should be given at a time,
every two or three hours; but if any blood is perceived .stop at
once, as it is a proof that the chick is not quite ready to be lib-
erated. If, on the contrary, the minute bloodvessels which are
spread all over the interior of the shell are- bloodless, then you

90 INCUBATION.

may be sure the chick is in some way stuck to the shell by its
feathers, or is too weakly ta get out of its prison-house,

The old egg shells should be removed from under the hen, .
but do not take away her chicks from her one by one as they
hatch out, as is very often advised, for it only makes her very
uneasy, and the natural warmth of her body is far better for
them at that stage than artificial heat.

Should only a few chicks have been hatched out of the sitting,
and the other remaining eggs show no signs of life when exam-
ined, no sounds of the little birds inside, then the water test
should be tried. Get a basin of warm water, not really hot,
and put those eggs about which you do not feel certain into it.
If they contain the chicks they will float on top, if they move
or dance the chicks are alive, but if they float without movement
the inmates will most likely be dead. If they (the eggs) are rot-
ten they will sink tothe bottom. Put the floating ones back
under the hen, and if, on carefully breaking the others, you find
the test is correct (one puncture will be sufficient to tell you this),
bury them at once.

Chickens should never be set free from their shells in a hurry,
because it is necessary for their well-being that they should have
taken in all the yolk, for that serves them for food for twenty-
four hours after they see the light, so no apprehension need be
felt if they do not eat during that period, if they seem quite strong,
gain their feet, and their little downy plumage spreads out and
dries properly. Their best place is under the hen for the time
named, then they may be fed in the manner described under the
head of ‘‘Management of Chickens,”

MANAGEMENT OF CHICKENS. 91

MANAGEMENT OF CHICKENS.

Chickens will, as I have already said, do without food for the
first day and night; but as soon as they begin to feed they should
be very well fed, and constantly. We all know the old saying,
that ‘‘Children and chicken are always picking.’? At first their
food should be crumbs of bread, sometimes dry, sometimes
soaked in milk, and the yolk of hard-boiled eggs crumbled: up
and mixed with bread-crumbs. This is quite enough for the
first week. Afterwards small grain may be given, chicken
wheat, or tailings of wheat, groats, canary-seed, a very little
hempseed, bits of underdone meat minced small, a little ‘finely-
chopped green food, macaroni boiled in milk and cut into small
bits, and so on. They should be fed very often, but only given
alittle atatime. I teed-mine every two hours for the first three
weeks or so, taking care that they only have just as much as
they can eat at a time, so that the food is not wasted. Hemp-
seed must be given with caution; but if the weather is cold and
damp it is very good for warming the chicks, and they are very
fond of it. Soft food mixéd dry should be given them after the
first week, macaroni, barley-meal, or middlings. This mixture
should be made with milk, or, if no milk is- given, then scalded
water, but on no account should any food for chickens be mixed -
with water which has not been boiled or scalded. The food
should not be mixed in a wet, sloppy mass, but of such a con-
sistency that when thrown on the ground it will crumble
readily.

92 MANAGEMENT OF CHICKENS.

The old hen should be supplied with grain (wheat), some of the -
meal, or any other food suitable for her when her little ones are
fed, but not.oats. All water which is given to the chickens
should be boiled first, or else it is very apt to give them diarr-
boa. A very good drinking-pan can be made for the small birds
by inverting an ordinary flowérpot in its saucer, and filling the
Jatter-with water. In this they cannot drown themselves, as
they might in a deeper pan or ordinary drinking-trough. Many
people give skim-milk instead of water at first, |

All the time chickens are growing they should be wellfed. It
is the very greatest mistake to stint any young stock; and chick-
ens, if you wish to bring them on quickly for market, must be
well and generously fed at all ages, not neglected when three-
parts grown, as is too often done, They should be constantly
supplied with fresh water.

It is certainly best to confine the hen under a coop for the first
month or so. If she is allowed her liberty she will wander about
with her brood in search of insécts, and so may expose her family
to the attacks of hawks, weasels, or other vermin. And, besides
this, -though you wish to feed your hen well while with her brood,
it would be rather foolish to allow her to satisfy her appetite on —
the dainties prepared for them, which she naturally will do un-
less you give them their meal where she cannot reach it, but
giving her under her coop at the same time coarserfood. Econ-

‘omy points out that delicate and expensive food, such as groats,
boiled eggs, and crumbs of bread, should be ‘reserved for the
chicks, while the hen has wheat or ordinary food. I should not
feel inclined to give her oats or barley unbruised for this reason:
she will, of course, call her little ones joyfully to her to partake
of the food given her, and they might choke themselves with
zarge whole grain, such as oats or barley, Rice will not hurt
them (boiled, of course), nor wheat, which is a much smaller

MANAGEMENT OF CHICKENS. 93

grain, especially in tailings, than the other cereals mentioned,
and cannot injure her little family, even if she does give them
a grain or two.

For the first week or two the coop should be placed in a warm
sheltered spot, but taken into a safe place at night. As the
chicks gain strength it should be moved on toa grass plat. The
ordinary-shaped coop, with a sloping roof and barred front, isas
good & one as any, only I should advise handles, strong wooden
ones, being fixed to each side to facilitate movement. ,Boarded
bottomed coops are not desirable—it is far better to place a bot-
tomless coop on the ground—else you might have small wheels
to your coops to push them along when . changing their place, :
Ina case of emergency, or if the expense of a coop cannot be

incurred, an old cask or beer-barrel makes a very fair coop.
Knock out one end and put laths across, leaving one to draw in
or out, and take out the staves which rest on the ground, The
barrel should be propped on each side to prevent its moving, and
a tarpaulin must be provided to throw over it at night to prevent
any rain soaking in the knocked-out end, and will serve as a
cover for the opening, which must be closed, for fear of cats,
foxes, rats, and such creatures, Holes for ventilation must be
drilled in this cover. I have reared many a healthy small brood
in a barrel in this way. It is easily rolled, too, into afresh place,
and if you have not coops enough, and do not know where to
stow your small families, barrels or boxes must be turned to
account. ‘ ;

The chicks when about a week old should be allowed:a little
liberty. The old hen might be turned out with them for an
hour or so during the warm part of the day, only she must be
watched in order that she does not lead them into mischief.
About this time, too, their food should be changed; less soaked
food and more small grain be given instead—grits, boiled barley,
and other articles of diet before advised.

94 MANAGEMENT OF CHICKENS.

Chickens should never be let out too early in the morning ,
even when they are three weeks or a month old, as itis certainly:
had for them to be about while the dew is on the grass.

The coops should be constantly changed about from place to
place, but never allowed to stand on “wet, moist ground. One
of the great secrets in rearing chickens is always tokeepthem dry.
If they are allowed to be out in the wet, or kept on damp ground,
they will soon become delicate. ‘‘Gapes,’’ that fatal malady
will attack them, or diarrhea, or some other ailment, and they’
will soon die off.

When they begin to feather the very greatest care should be
‘taken of them, as this is a very critical period. Hempseed and
bread soaked should be given, and iron in their water, At six
months they should be in full-plumage, and in seven or eight
months the pullets, if they have béen well fed up to this time,
will commence laying. ‘‘Tailings’’ (wheat) are really the best
grain food for chickens up to four months. After they first
‘begin to eat grain many people advise barley, but if you ean get
wheat—which is not, however, always easy to procure—I infi-
nitely prefer it. If you must give barley, then let it be bruised:

I am no friend to keeping chicks indoors, as some people advise,
for Iam convinced it makes them weakly. Find a sheltered
corner for the coop, and move them into it even in cold weather,
only put the coop under shelier at night. Confining them in-
doors, even in a barn or a stable, appears to produce cramp and
weakness of the legs, which when turned out is not the case, for
the best and surest preventive for cramp and leg-weakness is to
let the birds’so affected have their liberty in the air, where they
can get the exercise they really require.

With regard to the time for chickens to be hatched out, I rear
young chickens most months,in the year, but then my fowl
house is in a sheltered place and on good dry soil. If you sit

MANAGEMENT OF CHICKENS. 95

late in the autumn, say in October or Ni ovember, it is an advan-
tage—that is, if you are in a fairly-sheltered, warm, dry spot—
for chickens hatched in December and January bring in a hand-
some profit in the shape of “spring chickens.’’ “There is, of
course, a good deal of risk, and immense care must Be taken of
the young birds during the cold weather, but if the situation is
good it is well worth a trial.

By the end of June, or early in July, pullets hatched in Diesen:
ber should, if they have been really well fed, be commencing to
lay. Your early chickens will not, perhaps, be as strong as those
hatched two months after, say in February and March. This is
one reason why they should be reared for table. In any case I
should not breed from birds hatched in the coldest winter months;
but in the case of pullets, if I did not kill them all offas “spring
chicks,”’ fatten and kill them when they had finished laying, and
before they began to moult; for birds hatched, say in March or
April, would be really much-stronger, and ‘“‘selected’”’ ones for
keeping out of such broods be more to be depended on to supply
the place of some of the old as if you mean to kill any. of
them off.

If you wish to fatten ‘spring chickens’’ quickly for market,
when they are about two months old confine them in coops and
feed chiefly with moist food. In my opinion a fowl allowed its
liberty has a better flavor than one confined and fed upin a coop,
but it certainly does not put on flesh so quickly nor yet get so

_thoroughly plump and tempting-looking when trussed ready for
market, therefore I should advise that those chickens fattened
for sale should be kept in coopsand fed up, while those for home
use should be allowed their liberty until they were really wanted
by the cook.

With regard to foxes, rats, and such vermin, your best safe-
guard against them is to house all your stock at night, and see
yourself that their numbers are all right. .

98 MANAGEMENT OF CHICKENS.

Rats must be waged war against. They are the greatest ene-
mies to young ducklings, also chickens. Keep steel traps
prepared, putting them down when the fowls are shut up for
the night in the runs outside, and baiting them with cheese or
bits of meat, only drop a little oil of rodium on the bait. In
time, if you will persevere, you will either frighten them away or
else catch them; but you must of course, keep your traps out of.
the way of the fowls themselves. Boiling coal tar poured down
the holes, and followed by a deluge of water, is said to be very
effectual in making rats desert a yard. Iam averse to poison,
because, if if is used.in a fowl-house or yard, itis next to im-
possible to prevent an accident sooner or later.. Ferreting every
now and then will do good, unless your houses are adjoining
barns or extensive outhouses, in which case you are more likely
to lose your ferrets than destroy the vermin. The holes should
be carefully stopped with a mixture of ground glass, bits of glass
broken up, and ordinary plasfer. Rats ‘will not often attack
glass mixed in this way. If you do use poison you must nail it
up somewhere out of reach.of the birds. This you can do by
getting a small bit of meat, soaking it with the poison, and nailing
it on toa bit of wood, nailing that again to the wall. Myself I
should be afraid of the rat, in his efforts to get off the meat,
dropping little bits-of it on the floor, when of course the fowls
‘would be the sufferers.

Cats are enemies also. Dogs one has not much reason to
fear, but in the vicinity of a town cats of all ages and sizes will
sooner or later visit you, and if there is one delicacy they prefer
to another it is a young chick or duckling. © They are so cunning
too, it is hard fo catch them,

Traps are not much good. Poisoned fish put down near where
you fancy they get into the run is the only thing; but of course
it must be taken away without fail before you let your fowls
‘outof the house, and it should also be nailed to a piece of wood,

FATTENING 97

which might be smeared with oil of valerian—of which some cats
are 60 fond—to make it even more attractive. Inever lost any
chicks by cats, I am bound to say, and therefore should be loath
to set poison down for them, I dread poison too, as [ have
already said, ina fowl-yard. One cat I had who took a fancy
to a young duckling, but was discovered before she had eaten it,

so poor ducky was tied to her neck in sucha position that she
could not get rid of. it, and this effectually cured her of killing.
ducklings or chicks. A good hungry half-starved town cat,

however, one could not cure by such means; it would be a case
of “first catch your cat.’”? But still cats I look on ina light of
friends, unless I suffered too severely from their attacks I
should not like to demolian them by such a criel method as

foison.

.

FATTENING.

In feeding fowls for table, or rather for market—for I should
never coop chickens to fat merely for home use, as I have before
said—much depends on circumstances,

Spring chickens should be penned for fattening directly the
hen shows a desire to leave them, when they are, say, five weeks
old. They will not then have lost their first plump condition, 7
and will soon, if well fed, increase rapidly in weight. They
are not required to be very large; indeed, if fatted too long buy-
ers would fancy they were not really “spring chickens,’’ which
frequently make their appearance at table not much larger than

98 PATTERNING.

blackbirds, and are then considered all the greater delicacy.

Tf your chickens were hatched out in December, early in Feb.
ruary you can put them up to fat. Their coops or cages should
be placed in a warm dark sheltered place. There are a variety
of different coops or pens recommended by different authorities
on poultry to fat chickens. I do not remember to havezeen one,
however, which is, to my mind so suited to the purpose as this
of which I give a description.

As far as the general confurmation of the coop goes, it is made
on the same plan as many others; but the adaptable shelf which
is its chief feature is entirely my own idea, and if adopted would,
I feel sure, give general satisfaction.

The coop itself is made of boards, sides, back, and ends of
front; centre of front is barred, with the two middle bars mov-
able. It stands on legs between two and three feet in height,
the roof sloped sufficient to allow the rain to run easily off.
To hold four chickens at the same time the coop should be
about five feet in length, four in breadth, and three in height—
that is, above the legs on which it stands. If the birds are kept
in separate divisions then a little more length will have to be-
allowed for the partitions. This will give ample room for the
birds without uncomfortably cramping them.

The bars in front of the coop should be wide enough apart to
allow the birds to get their heads through easily to get at
their food, which should be given them on a shelf or board.
The shelf, when not in use, being fixed on hinges, would fold
down in front of the coop. This is a much better plan than
having a trough for food fized outside, as so many coops have,
the objection to it being that the food soon gets sour—I mean
what is left after the birds have fed—sticking to the sides of the
trough, which, if it is a box-like fixture, it is next to impossible
to clean properly.

The shelf should haye an upright lath nailed to it to prevent _

FATTENING. 99

the chickens pushing the food beyond their reach in efforts to
get at it, but the ledge should not be so deep as to interfere with
the shelf closing against the front of the coop. Between this
ledge and the coop should fit a zinc trough, the width of the
division, for water.

When food is put down this water-trough should be slipped out,
to be replaced when the meal is over. Two small wooden sup-
ports would prop up this miniature table; on the same plan an
extra shelf is made to enlarge an ordinary table. A further use
of this flat board would be to close up the front of the coop at
night. It should not close entirely the barred space, room being
left at the top for ventilation. Water not being required at

_ night, the zine trough should be removed to allow of the shelf
being closed, while the wooden buttons would keep it firmly in
its place, the small holes at the side of the coop supplying the
extra ventilation necessary.

With regard to sanitary arrangements, before the birds are

- put into the coop it should be thoroughly washed with a mix-
ture of lime and size, to destroy all vermin. This dries quite
hard and does not rub off. Ifa white wash is objected to in a
feeding-pen, then it could be darkened by the admixture of color,
only see that there is no lead in the color mixed with the wash
to procure the darker shade. The partially-boarded front will
prevent the coop being too light.

The floor should be first of all of flat bars placed length-wise—
fixtures these—and over them should slip in, from the back of
the coop, a movable board, which should be drawn out every
day and thoroughly scraped and sanded, but not washed, because
if not thoroughly dry when put in the birds would get a chill, and
very likely suffer from diarrhea in consequence.

If after a meal there is any food remaining, let down the shelf
and brush it off, giving it to the other fowls in order not to
waste it. Food should never be allowed to remain in the sight

100 : FATTENING.

of fattening fowls, or they will lose appetite. If they are only
fed at stated times, and when they have eaten as much as they :
require the board is carefully cleaned and the water-trough
replaced in the niche, the birds will feed again, when the time
comes round for their food, with eagerness, ‘which will not be the
case if the food. is left there for them to peck at.

I have had plenty of experience with fowls, having reared them
for show, for eggs, and for table, and have therefore no hesita-
tion in recommending my “adaptable shelf,” as I feel certain it
is an addition of the greatest use to an’ ordinary feeding-coop.
It adds very little to the expense, ‘is so simple that any carpenter
could easily make it from a plain drawing, avoids waste of food,
and insures cleanliness. As soft food is mostly used in- fatting'
chickens, it is all the more necessary that none-of it should be
allowed to remain after the meal to turn sour, disagree with the
birds, and take away their appetite. In a trough it is hardly
possible to prevent a little lodging in the corners and sides, as if”
the trough is a fixture it cannot be removed to be washed; on &
shelf remains of food need never be left, as the application of a
hard brush for a few minutes would remove every particle, a
little sand being afterwards sprinkled lightly ‘over the board
tq render it perfectly sweet before the water-trough is slipped
in, ,

Water should be constantly changed, and boiled water should
- be always used instead of that just. pumped or drawn from a
well or spring, as this will prevent the chickens ‘getting diarr-
‘hea. ‘

. You should have some voila of darkening your pens, either
by letting down a tarpaulin over the top or having sliding
boards to run in-and out, so that the light can be regulated at
will,

_ Some people keep their chickens separately, having their pens

divided. I do not think this is really necessary if’ you choose

?

PATTENING, 101

thickens of the same brood to fat together, Four are enough
)o fat at a time; but never allow your coop, if you have only
one, to remain empty; as you kill off one lot of chickens you
should have another batch ready to put in, Cramming I am
entirely averse to, It is a needlessly cruel and disgusting
custom, though very frequently precticed, especially in
France., .

Now comes the grand question of food. It should always be
pultaceous; the birds cannot pick up pebbles and little stones
when shut up, so cannot, digest grain of any sort. Feed them
on bread and milk, oatmeal and milk, rice well boiled with a
little pepper mixed with it, barley-meal, Indian corn meal, pota- .
toes steamed and mixed with barley-meal, chopped green food,
&c. Very many breeders give a large amount of suet mixed
with the food, but unless people are fond of greasy fat on their
poultry, which to me is an abomiration, I should not advise it,
as it makes the flesh so gross. Vary the diet as much as-poasible,

sad never give it in a sloppy state, but crumbly, Three weeks
i a month at the outside is enough to keep fowls up for fatting sif.
kept longer the confinement begins to tell on them. Some: peo-
ple mix treacle or sugar with their food. Saccharine matter is
no doubt conducive to fat, and oatmeal, or Indian corn ground
into meal and mixed with treacle until it is in a crumbling state,
is a food all chickens are fond of, but should only be given ‘to :
those you wish to feed; it would-not do for those pullets you
wish to bring on to lay quickly, as it would develop interior fat,
which is always fatal to constant laying.
_ Guard against waste of food. Only experience will cause you -
. to know how much to supply at once; and until you learn ‘this,
directly you see the chickens begin to pick daintily at their food
remove it, give to the other fowis then what is left, but on no
account allow it to stay in the trough for the fatting chickens. to-.
” eat, when, as the olf women say, “‘they’ve a mindto.” If they

102 ‘FATTENING.

do not-constantly see food before them they will eat it far. more
“readily when itis given. This is only common-sense treatment,.
and, believe me, in dealing with fowls you must often draw
F largely on this very desirable commodity. .

Four meals a day should be the allowance for penned-up chick-
ens, letting them eat, each time: you feed, as much as they will
with appetite.’ At night they will roost on the board. Some
people put down clean straw, but if you close up the pen so that
the birds are not cold it is not really necessary, and it only har-
bours insects. Perches you might have if you’ve room in- your
pen—sufficient height I mean, Before the birds are put in have
the coop well cleaned, white-washed, and sprinkled with car-
bolic acid. This should be done two or three times during tho
time the chicks are fattening.

- Fowls should of course be killed in the -most merciful: way.
It makes one shudder to read of the manner in which the poor
things are sometimes tortured, allowed to bleed slowly to death,
pins run into their brains, and horrors too dreadful to name.
Poultry dealers generally kill them in the quickest manner by
breaking their necks, and so quickly do they perform- their

‘work that one man will often kill and pick a dozen or more
in an hour. One of the easiest ways of. killing is to hit the bird -

‘a sharp blow on the back of the head with a heavy blunt stick;
‘death is almost instantaneous. Then pluck at once while the
bird is warm, as the process can then be accomplished much- -
more rapidly than if the bird is allowed to hang until cold.
When all the feathers are off the fowl will still be warm. It
-should then be carefully singed, floured, and trussed, and placed.
-between two boards witha weight, on the topmost; not too heavy
a, weight, of course, to spoil its shape, but just enough to keep’
the breast down and in good shape.

Capons of course fetch much better prices, and their flesh -
remains tender up to the age of two years,ewhereas a cock at

FATTENING, 108

that age is only eatable ina stew, or pie. Chickens converted
into capons increase in size to a wonderful extent; the birds will
in a year be nearly treble the size it would have been if left
alone, and double the market value.

In conclusion I may observe that I can most sincerely, from my
own practical experience, advise all ladies, as well as gentlemen,
who have a little room to spare in their back gardens, to set ‘up

| poultry-keeping on a small scale. Many more people keep
fowls now than used to years ago, know, but still not half
people enough. Many who have room to spare fora family of
fowls let that room remain unoccupied, either from a mistaken
idea that poultry-keeping is too expensive or will entail too much
trouble on them. With regard to the latter idea, it is, no doubt,
a partially true one. Fowls do cause trouble, and if they are to be

- made to pay their way cannot fail to do so. But whatever trouble’.

.they cause they are worth it, and no undertaking or pursuit that I.
ever heard of flourished without some amount of trouble. In
return they give fresh eggs—that you are sure of, and can offer
a guest without any inward misgivings—plump chickens, a little
pocket-money, and a great deal of interest,

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