i
pias
ater

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New York
State College of A griculture
At Cornell University
Ithaca, N.Y.

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Home vegetable gardening; a complete and

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HOME
VEGETABLE
GARDENING

vegetables may be grown not only cheaper but infinitely
better than can be bought. Nor need the “garden patch”
be unsightly

HOME
VEGETABLE GARDENING

A COMPLETE AND PRACTICAL GUIDE
TO THE PLANTING AND CARE OF ALL
VEGETABLES, FRUITS AND BERRIES
WORTH GROWING FOR HOME USE

BY

F. F. ROCKWELL |

NEW YORK
ROBERT M. McBRIDE & COMPANY
1917

COPYRIGHT, 1911, BY
McBRIDE, WINSTON & COMPANY

First Eprtion
PosusHep Apait, 1911

PREFACE

ITH some, the home vegetable garden
is a hobby; with others, especially in
these days of high prices, a great

help. There are many in both classes whose
experience in gardening has been restricted
within very narrow bounds, and whose present
spare time for gardening is limited. It is as
“first aid’ to such persons, who want to do
practical, efficient gardening, and do it with
the least possible fuss and loss of time, that
this book is written. In his own experience
the author has found that garden books,
while seldom lacking in information, often do
not present it in the clearest possible way.
It has been his aim to make the present vol-
ume first of all practical, and in addition to
that, though comprehensive, yet simple and
concise. If it helps to make the way of the
home gardener more clear and definite, its
purpose will have been accomplished.

CHAPTER

I
II

XVI
XVII
XVIII
XIX
XX

CONTENTS

PAGE
INTRODUCTION) csc Secs oe bee ene ewes I
WHY YOU SHOULD GARDEN............ 6
REQUISITES OF THE HOME VEGETABLE
GARDEN ........... treba caw ee abe is 9
THE PLANTING PLAN ...........000. .. 16
IMPLEMENTS AND THEIR USES......... 30
MANURES AND FERTILIZERS ..... siieueherer 42
THE SOIL AND ITS PREPARATION....... 61
Part Two—VEGETABLES
STARTING THE PLANTS........ eieraetareceun 2
SOWING AND PLANTING......... Saintes, 1.O 2
THE CULTIVATION OF VEGETABLES...... IOI
THE VEGETABLES AND THEIR SPECIAL
NEEDS words ba aca a ee a eS 108
BEST VARIETIES OF THE GARDEN VEGE-
TA BURBS ed. gs eh emg cued arsine . 141
INSECTS AND DISEASE, AND METHODS OF
FIGHTING THEM ........... ane ESS
HARVESTING AND STORING ...eeeeevees 173
Part THREE—FRUITS
THE VARIETIES OF POME AND STONE
FRUITS scsi ae Gane sions een ach teat 184
PLANTING; CULTIVATION; FILLER CROPS 206
PRUNING, SPRAYING, HARVESTING ..... 210
BERRIES AND SMALL FRUITS.......... 226
A CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS.......-- 249
CONCLUSION jeiec ceredaisd wid pee caress 200

Cuapter I

INTRODUCTION

to invest their labors and achievements
_ with a mystery and secrecy which might
well have discouraged any amateur from tres-
passing upon such difficult ground. “Trade
secrets” in either flower or vegetable growing were
acquired by the apprentice only through practice
and observation, and in turn jealously guarded by
him until passed on to some younger brother in
the profession. Every garden operation was made
to seem a wonderful and difficult undertaking.
Now, all that has changed. In fact the pendulum
has swung, as it usually does, to the other extreme.
Often, if you are a beginner, you have been flatter-
ingly told in print that you could from the beginning
do just as well as the experienced gardener.

My garden friend, it cannot, as a usual thing, be
done. Of course, it may happen and sometimes
does. You might, being a trusting lamb, go down
into Wall Street with $10,000 and make a fortune.

(1)

Pee eves it was the custom for gardeners

2 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

You know that you would not be likely to; the
chances are very much against you. This garden
business is a matter of common sense; and the man,
or the woman, who has learned by experience how
to do a thing, whether it is cornering the market or
growing cabbages, naturally does it better than the
one who has not. Do not expect the impossible. If
you do, read a poultry advertisement and go into the
hen business instead of trying to garden. I have
grown pumpkins that necessitated the tearing down
of the fence in order to get them out of the lot, and
sometimes, though not frequently, have had to use
the axe to cut through a stalk of asparagus, but I
never “made $17,000 in ten months from an egg-
plant in a city back-yard.”’ No, if you are going to
take up gardening, you will have to work, and you
will have a great many disappointments. All that
I, or anyone else, could put between the two covers
of a book will not make a gardener of you. It must
be learned through the fingers, and back, too, as well
as from the printed page. But, after all, the greatest
reward for your efforts will be the work itself;
and unless you love the work, or have a feeling
that you will love it, probably the best way for you,
is to stick to the grocer for your garden.

Most things, in the course of development,
change from the simple to the complex. The art
of gardening has in many ways been an exception

INTRODUCTION %

to the rule. The methods of culture used for many
crops are more simple than those in vogue a gen-
eration ago. The last fifty years has seen also a tre-
mendous advance in the varieties of vegetables, and
the strange thing is that in many instances the new
and better sorts are more easily and quickly grown
than those they have replaced. The new lima
beans are an instance of what is meant. While
limas have always been appreciated as one of the
most delicious of vegetables, in many sections they
could never be succesfully grown, because of their
aversion to dampness and cold, and of the long sea-
son required to mature them. The newer sorts are
not only larger and better, but hardier and earlier;
and the bush forms have made them still more gen-
erally available.

Knowledge on the subject of gardening is also
more widely diffused than ever before, and the
science of photography has helped wonderfully in
telling the newcomer how to do things. It has also
lent an impetus and furnished an inspiration which
words alone could never have done. If one were
to attempt to read all the gardening instructions
and suggestions being published, he would have
no time left to practice gardening at all. Why
then, the reader may ask at this point, another
garden book? It is a pertinent question, and it is
right that an answer be expected in advance. The

4 HomMeE VEGETABLE GARDENING

reason, then, is this: while there are garden books
in plenty, most of them pay more attention to the
“content” than to the form in which it is laid before
the prospective gardener. The material is often
presented as an accumulation of detail, instead of by
a systematic and constructive plan which will take
the reader step by step through the work to be done,
and make clear constantly both the principles and
the practice of garden making and management,
and at the same time avoid every digression un-
necessary from the practical point of view. Other
books again, are either so elementary as to be of
little use where gardening is done without gloves,
or too elaborate, however accurate and worthy in
other respects, for an every-day working manual.
“The author feels, therefore, that there is a distinct
field for the present book.

And, while I still have the reader by the “‘intro-
duction” buttonhole, I want to make a suggestion
or two about using a book like this. Do not, on
the one hand, read it through and then put it away
with the dictionary and the family Bible, and trust
to memory for the instruction it may give; do not,
on the other hand, wait until you think it is time to
plant a thing, and then go and look it up. For in-
stance, do not, about the middle of May, begin in-
vestigating how many onion seeds to put in a hill;
you will find out that they should have been put in,

INTRODUCTION 5

in drills, six weeks before. Read the whole book
through carefully at your first opportunity, make
a list of the things you should do for your own
vegetable garden, and put opposite them the proper
dates for your own vicinity. Keep this available,
as a working guide, and refer to special matters as
you get to them.

Do not feel discouraged that you cannot be prom-
ised immediate success at the start. I know from
personal experience and from the experience of
others that “book-gardening” is a practical thing.
If you do your work carefully and thoroughly, you
may be confident that a very great measure of success
will reward the efforts of your first garden season.

And I know too, that you will find it the most
entrancing game you ever played.

Good luck to you!

CHAPTER II
WHY YOU SHOULD GARDEN

HERE are more reasons to-day than ever be-
fore why the owner of a small place should
have his, or her, own vegetable garden. The

days of home weaving, home cheese-making, home
meat-packing, are gone. With a thousand and one
other things that used to be made or done at home,
they have left the fireside and followed the factory
chimney. These things could be turned over to
machinery. The growing of vegetables cannot be
so disposed of. Garden tools have been improved,
but they are still the same old one-man affairs—
doing one thing, one row at a time. Labor is still
the big factor—and that, taken in combination
with the cost of transporting and handling such
perishable stuff as garden produce, explains why
the home gardener can grow his own vegetables at
less expense than he can buy them. That is a good
fact to remember.

But after all, I doubt if most of us will look at
the matter only after consulting the columns of the

(6)

Wuy You SHouLD GARDEN 7

household ledger. The big thing, the salient fea-
ture of home gardening is not that we may get our
vegetables ten per cent. cheaper, but that we can have
them one hundred per cent. better. Even the long-
keeping sorts, like squash, potatoes and onions, are
very perceptibly more delicious right from the home
garden, fresh from the vines or the ground; but
when it comes to peas, and corn, and lettuce,—well,
there is absolutely nothing to compare with the home
garden ones, gathered fresh, in the early slanting
sunlight, still gemmed with dew, still crisp and ten-
der and juicy, ready to carry every atom of savory
quality, without loss, to the dining table. Stale, flat
and unprofitable indeed, after these have once been
tasted, seem the limp, travel-weary, dusty things
that are jounced around to us in the butcher’s cart
and the grocery wagon. It is not in price alone that
home gardening pays. There is another point: the
market gardener has to grow the things that give
the biggest yield. He has to sacrifice quality to
quantity. Youdo not. One cannot buy Golden Ban-
tam corn, or Mignonette lettuce, or Gradus peas in
most markets. They are top quality, but they do not
fill the market crate enough times to the row to
pay the commercial grower. If you cannot afford
to keep a professional gardener there is only one
way to have the best vegetables—grow your own!
And this brings us to the third, and what may be

8 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

the most important reason why you should garden.
It is the cheapest, healthiest, keenest pleasure there
is. Give me a sunny garden patch in the golden
springtime, when the trees are picking out their new
gowns, in all the various self-colored delicate grays
and greens—strange how beautiful they are, in the
same old unchanging styles, isn’t it?—give me seeds
to watch as they find the light, plants to tend as they
take hold in the fine, loose, rich soil, and you may
have the other sports: And when you have grown
tired of their monotony, come back in summer to
even the smallest garden, and you will find in it,
every day, a new problem to be solved, a new cam-
paign to be carried out, a new victory to win.

Better food, better health, better living—all these
the home garden offers you in abundance. And the
price is only the price of every worth-while thing—
honest, cheerful patient work.

But enough for now of the dream garden. Put
down your book. Put on your old togs, light your
pipe—some kind-hearted humanitarian should de-
vise for women such a kindly and comforting vice
as smoking—and let’s go outdoors and look the
place over, and pick out the best spot for that gar-
den-patch of yours.

Cuapter III
REQUISITES OF THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

N deciding upon the site for the home vegetable
garden it is well to dispose once and for all of
the old idea that the garden “patch” must be

an ugly spot in the home surroundings. If thought-
fully planned, carefully planted and thoroughly
cared for, it may be made a beautiful and harmo-
nious feature of the general scheme, lending a touch
of comfortable homeliness that no shrubs, borders,
or beds can ever produce.

With this fact in mind we will not feel restricted
to any part of the premises merely because it is out
of sight behind the barn or garage. In the average
moderate-sized place there will not be much choice
as to land. It will be necessary to take what is to
be had and then do the very best that can be done
with it. But there will probably be a good deal of
choice as to, first, exposure, and second, convenience.
Other things being equal, select a spot near at hand,
easy of access. It may seem that a difference of
only a few hundred yards will mean nothing, but if

(9)

Io HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

one is depending largely upon spare moments for
working in and for watching the garden—and in
the growing of many vegetables the latter is almost
as important as the former—this matter of conven-
ient access will be of much greater importance than
is likely to be at first recognized. Not until you
have had to make a dozen time-wasting trips for
forgotten seeds or tools, or gotten your feet soaking
wet by going out through the dew-drenched grass,
will you realize fully what this may mean.

EXPOSURE

But the thing of first importance to consider in
picking out the spot that is to yield you happiness
and delicious vegetables all summer, or even for
many years, is the exposure. Pick out the “earliest”
spot you can find—a plot sloping a little to the south
or east, that seems to catch sunshine early and hold
it late, and that seems to be out of the direct path
of the chilling north and northeast winds. If a build-
ing, or even an old fence, protects it from this direc-
tion, your garden will be helped along wonderfully,
for an early start is a great big factor toward suc-
cess. If it is not already protected, a board fence,
or a hedge of some low-growing shrubs or young
evergreens, will add very greatly to its usefulness.
The importance of having such a protection or shel-
ter is altogether underestimated by the amateur.

REQUISITES II

THE SOIL

The chances are that you will not find a spot of
ideal garden soil ready for use anywhere upon your
place. But all except the very worst of soils can be
brought up to a very high degree of productiveness
—especially such small areas as home vegetable gar-
dens require. Large tracts of soil that are almost
pure sand, and others so heavy and mucky that for
centuries they lay uncultivated, have frequently been
brought, in the course of only a few years, to where
they yield annually tremendous crops on a commer-
cial basis. So do not be discouraged about your
soil, Proper treatment of it is much more import-
ant, and a garden-patch of average run-down,—or
“never-brought-up”’ soil—will produce much more
for the energetic and careful gardener than the rich-
est spot will grow under average methods of culti-
vation.

The ideal garden soil is a “rich, sandy loam.” And
the fact cannot be overemphasized that such soils
usually are made, not found. Let us analyze that de-
scription a bit, for right here we come to the first
of the four all-important factors of gardening—food.
The others are cultivation, moisture and tempera-
ture. “Rich” in the gardener’s vocabulary means
full of plant food; more than that—and this is a
point of vital importance—it means full of plant
food ready to be used at once, all prepared and spread

12 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

out on the garden table, or rather in it, where grow-
ing things can at once make use of it; or what we
term, in one word, “available” plant food. Practi-
cally no soils in long-inhabited communities remain
naturally rich enough to produce big crops. They
are made rich, or kept rich, in two ways; first, by
cultivation, which helps to change the raw plant
food stored in the soil into available forms; and sec-
ond, by manuring or adding plant food to the soil
from outside sources.

“Sandy” in the sense here used, means a soil con-
taining enough particles of sand so that water will
pass through it without leaving it pasty and sticky
a few days after a rain; “light” enough, as it is
called, so that a handful, under ordinary conditions,
will crumble and fall apart readily after being pressed
in the hand. It is not necessary that the soil be
sandy in appearance, but it should be friable.

“Loam: a rich, friable soil,” says Webster. That
hardly covers it, but it does describe it. It is soil in
which the sand and clay are in proper proportions,
so that neither greatly predominate, and usually dark
in color, from cultivation and enrichment. Such a
soil, even to the untrained eye, just naturally looks
as if it would grow things. It is remarkable how
quickly the whole physical appearance of a piece of
well cultivated ground will change. An instance
came under my notice last fall in one of my fields,

REQUISITES 13

where a strip containing an acre had been two years
in onions, and a little piece jutting off from the mid-
dle of this had been prepared for them just one sea-
son. The rest had not received any extra manuring
or cultivation. When the field was plowed up in the
fall, all three sections were as distinctly noticeable
as though separated by a fence. And I know that
next spring’s crop of rye, before it is plowed under,
will show the lines of demarcation just as plainly.
This, then, will give you an idea of a good garden
soil. Perhaps in yours there will be too much sand,
or too much clay. That will be a disadvantage, but
one which energy and perseverance will soon over-
come to a great extent—by what methods may be
learned in Chapter VIII. ,

DRAINAGE

There is, however, one other thing you must look
out for in selecting your garden site, and that is
drainage. Dig down eight or twelve inches after -
you have picked out a favorable spot, and examine
the sub-soil. This is the second strata, usually of
different texture and color from the rich surface
soil, and harder than it. If you find a sandy or grav-
elly bed, no matter how yellow and poor it looks, you
have chosen the right spot. But if it be a stiff, heavy
clay, especially a blue clay, you will have either to
drain it or be content with a very late garden—that

14 HomMeE VEGETABLE GARDENING

is, unless you are at the top of a knoll or on a slope.
Chapter VII contains further suggestions in regard
to this problem.

SOIL ANTECEDENTS

There was a further reason for mentioning that
strip of onion ground. It is a very practical illus-
tration of what last year’s handling of the soil means
to this year’s garden. If you can pick out a spot,
even if it is not the most desirable in other ways, that
has been well enriched or cultivated for a year or
two previous, take that for this year’s garden. And
in the meantime have the spot on which you intend
to make your permanent vegetable garden thor-
oughly “fitted,” and grow there this year a crop of
potatoes or sweet corn, as suggested in Chapter IX.
Then next year you will have conditions just right
to give your vegetables a great start.

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS

There are other things of minor importance but
worth considering, such as the shape of your garden
plot, for instance. The more nearly rectangular,
the more convenient it will be to work and the more
easily kept clean and neat. Have it large enough,
or at least open on two ends, so that a horse can be
used in plowing and harrowing. And if by any
means you can have it within reach of an adequate
supply of water, that will be a tremendous help in

REQUISITES 15

seasons of protracted drought. Then again, if you
have ground enough, lay off two plots so that you
can take advantage of the practice of rotation, al-
ternating grass, potatoes or corn with the vegetable
garden. Of course it is possible to practice crop
rotation (see page 106) to some extent within the
limits of even the small vegetable garden, but it will
be much better, if possible, to rotate the entire gar-
den-patch.

All these things, then, one has to keep in mind
in picking the spot best suited for the home vege-
table garden. It should be, if possible, of conven-
ient access; it should have a warm exposure and be
well enriched, well worked-up soil, not too light nor
too heavy, and by all means well drained. If it has
been thoroughly cultivated for a year or two pre-
vious, so much the better. If it is near a supply of
water, so situated that it can be at least plowed and
harrowed with a horse, and large enough to allow
the garden proper to be shifted every other year or
two, still more the better.

Fill all of these requirements that you can, and
then by taking full advantage of the advantages you
have, you can discount the disadvantages. After all
it is careful, persistent work, more than natural ad-
vantages, that will tell the story; and a good garden
does not grow—it is made.

CHAPTER IV.
THE PLANTING PLAN

AVING selected the garden spot, the next
consideration, naturally, is what shall be
planted in it.

The old way was to get a few seed catalogues,
pick out a list of the vegetables most enthusias-
tically described by the (wholly disinterested) seeds-
man, and then, when the time came, to put them in
at one or two plantings, and sowing each kind as
far as the seed would go. There is a better way—a
way to make the garden produce more, to yield
things when you want them, and in the proper pro-
portions.

All these advantages, you may suppose, must mean
more work. On the contrary, however, the new way
makes very much less work and makes results a hun-
dred per cent. more certain. It is not necessary even
that more thought be put upon the garden, but fore-
thought there must be. Forethought, however, is
much more satisfactory than hind-thought.

In the new way of gardening there are four great

(16)

PLAN 17

helps, four things that will be of great assistance to
the experienced gardener, and that are indispensable
to the success of the beginner. They are the Plant-
ing Plan, the Planting Table, the Check List and
the Garden Record.

Do not become discouraged at the formidable
sound of that paragraph and decide that after all
you do not want to fuss so much over your garden;
that you are doing it for the fun of the thing any-
way, and such intricate systems will not be worth
bothering with. The purpose of those four garden
helps is simply to make your work less and your re-
turns more. You might just as well refuse to use
a wheel hoe because the trowel was good enough for
your grandmother’s garden, as to refuse to take ad-
vantage of the modern garden methods described in
this chapter. Without using them to some extent,
or in some modified form, you can never know just
what you are doing with your garden or what im-
provements to make next year. Of course, each of
the plans or lists suggested here is only one of many
possible combinations. You should be able to find,
or better still to construct, similar ones better suited
to your individual taste, need and opportunity. That,
however, does not lessen the necessity of using some
such system. It is just as necessary an aid to the
maximum efficiency in gardening as are modern
tools. Do not fear that you will waste time on the

2

18 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

planting plan. Master it and use it, for only so can
you make your garden time count for most in pro-
ducing results. In the average small garden there
is a very large percentage of waste—for two weeks,
more string beans than can be eaten or given away;
and then, for a month, none at all, for instance. You
should determine ahead as nearly as possible how
much of each vegetable your table will require and
then try to grow enough of each for a continuous
supply, and no more. It is just this that the planting
plan enables you to do.

I shall describe, as briefly as possible, forms of
the planting plan, planting table, check list and rec-
ord, which I have found it convenient to use.

To make the Planting Plan take a sheet of white
paper and a ruler and mark off a space the shape of
your garden—which should be rectangular if pos-
sible—using a scale of one-quarter or one-eighth
inch to the foot. Rows fifty feet long will be found
a convenient length for the average home garden.
In a garden where many varieties of things are
grown it will be best to run the rows the short way
of the piece. We will take a fifty-foot row for the
purpose of illustration, though of course it can read-
ily be changed in proportion where rows of that
length can not conveniently be made. In a very
small garden it will be better to make the row, say,
twenty-five feet long, the aim being always to keep

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“POAT eye

PLAN 19

the row a unit and have as few broken ones as pos-
sible, and still not to have to plant more of any one
thing than will be needed.

In assigning space for the various vegetables sev-
eral things should be kept in mind in order to facili-
tate planting, replanting and cultivating the garden.
These can most quickly be realized by a glance at
the plan illustrated herewith. You will notice that
crops that remain several years—rhubarb and as-
paragus—are kept at one end. Next come such as
will remain a whole season—parsnips, carrots,
onions and the like. And finally those that will be
used for a succession of crops—peas, lettuce, spinach.
Moreover, tall-growing crops, like pole beans, are
kept to the north of lower ones. In the plan illus-
trated the space given to each variety is allotted ac-
cording to the proportion in which they are ordina-
rily used. If it happens that you have a special weak-
ness for peas, or your mother-in-law an aversion to
peppers, keep these tastes and similar ones in mind
when laying out your planting plan.

Do not leave the planning of your garden until
you are ready to put the seeds in the ground and then
do it allina rush. Do it in January, as soon as you
have received the new year’s catalogues and when
you have time to study over them and look up your
record of the previous year. Every hour spent on
the plan will mean several hours saved in the garden.

20

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POLE BEANS-Z

TOMATOES-1

SI CABBAGE

EARLY-1
LATE-1!

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ROCOLLI-1
PEPPERS-1

BRUSSELS SPROUTS—1
LGG-PLANT-1

CELERY-1

OMNIONS- 3%
LEEKS-

CARROTS-4

BEETS-4

TURNIPS-15
P,

RUTABAGA-£

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P PUMPKINS-4H.

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481 WINTER SQUASH-SH.

SUMMER SQUASH, BUSH-SH|

QUMMER SQUASH, VINE SH,

A typical Planting

Plan. ic The scale

measurements at the left and top indi-
cate the length and distance apart of

TOws.

HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

The Planting
Table is thenext
important sys-
tem in the busi-
ness of garden-
ing, especially
for the begin-
ner. In it one
can see at a
glance all the
details of the
particular treat-
ment each vege-
table requires—
when to sow,
how deep, how
far apart the
rows should be,
etc. I remember
how many trips
from garden to
house to hunt
through cata-
logues for just
such informa-
tion I made in
my first
seasons’

two
gar-

PLAN 21

dening. How much time, just at the very busiest
season of the whole year, such a table would have
saved!

The Planting Table prepared for one’s own use
should show, besides the information given, the
varieties of each vegetable which experience has
proved best adapted to one’s own needs. The table
shown herewith gives such a list ; varieties which are
for the most part standard favorites and all of which,
with me, have proven reliable, productive and of
good quality. Other good sorts will be found de-
scribed in Part Two, pages 141 to 157. Sucha table
should be mounted on cardboard and kept where it

_™ay readily be referred to at planting time.

The Check List is the counterpart of the planting
table, so arranged that its use will prevent anything
from being overlooked or left until too late. Prepare
it ahead, some time in January, when you have time
to think of everything. Make it up from your
planting table and from the previous year’s record.
From this list (see page 23) it will be well to put
down ona sheet of paper the things to be done each
month (or week) and cross them off as they are at-
tended to. Without some such system it is almost
a certainty that you will overlook some important
things.

The Garden Record is no less important. It may
be kept in the simplest sort of way, but be sure to

22 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

keep it. A large piece of paper ruled as follows, for
instance, will require only a few minutes’ attention
each week and yet will prove of the greatest assist-
ance in planning the garden next season.

VEGETABLE GARDEN RECORD—IQIO

VEGETABLE VARIETY Put 1n | Reapy NoTEs

Beans, dwarf |Red Valentine...|May 10|July 6 {Not best quality. Try
other earlies

Golden Wax ..../May 15 |July 22|Rusted. Spray next year
Bean, pole . .|Old Homestead..! May 16 | July 26 | Toomany. 6 poles next year
Early Leviathan | May 25 |Aug. 19|Good. Dry.

Bean, lima. .}Fordhuok ......|May1s5]|......./Rotted. Try May 25

Beet ....... Egyptian ......)Apr.10 |June 12|Roots sprangled
Eclipse.........|Apr.10|June 14| Better quality

Cabbage ....|Wakefield...... Apr. 9 |June 20/Injured by worms. Helle-

bore next year
Etc., etc. .

The above shows how such a record will be kept.
Of course, only the first column is written in ahead.
I want to emphasize in passing, however, the impor-
tance of putting down your data on the day you
plant, or harvest, or notice anything worth recording.
If you let it go until tomorrow it is very apt to be
lacking next year.

Try these four short-cuts to success, even if you
have had a garden before. They will make a big
difference in your garden; less work and greater re-
sults.

PLAN 23

CHECK LIST

Jan. tst—Send for catalogues. Make planting
plan and table. Order seeds.

Feb. 1st—Inside: cabbage, cauliflower, first sowing.
Onions for plants.

Feb. 15th—lInside: lettuce, cabbage, cauliflower,
Brussels sprouts, beets.

March 1st—Inside: lettuce, celery, tomato (early).

March 15th—Inside: lettuce, tomato (main), egg-
plant, pepper, lima beans, cucumber, squash;
sprout potatoes in sand.

April 1st—Inside: cauliflower (on sods), musk-

melon, watermelon, corn.
Outside: (seed-bed) celery, cabbage, lettuce.
Onions, carrots, smooth peas, spinach, beets,
chard, parsnip, turnip, radish. Lettuce, cabbage
(plants).

May ist—Beans, corn, spinach, lettuce, radish.

May 15th—Beans, limas, muskmelon, watermelon,
summer squash, peas, potatoes, lettuce, radish,
tomato (early), corn, limas, melon, cucumber and
squash (plants). Pole-lima, beets, corn, kale,
winter squash, pumpkin, lettuce, radish.

June 1st—Beans, carrots, corn, cucumber, peas, sum-
mer spinach, summer lettuce, radish, egg-plant,
pepper, tomato (main plants).

June 15th—Beans, corn, peas, turnip, summer let-
tuce, radish, late cabbage, and tomato plants.

24 HoMeE VEGETABLE GARDENING

July 1st—Beans, endive, kale, lettuce, radish, winter
cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts and celery
plants.

July 15th—Beans, early corn, early peas, lettuce,
radish.

Aug. 1st—Early peas, lettuce, radish.

Aug. 15th—Early peas, lettuce, radish in seed-bed,
forcing lettuce for fall in frames.

Sept. rst—Lettuce, radish, spinach and onions for
wintering over.

Notg.—This list is for planting only (the dates are approxi-
mate: see note 1 at head of page 29). Spraying and other
garden operations may also be included in such a list. See
“Calendar of Operations” at end of book.

PLAN

PLANTING TABLE

25

DISTANCE APART

DEPTH TO
VEGETABLE PLANT! SOW—INS.
SEEDS3 ROWS
I. CROPS REMAINING ENTIRE SEASON

Asparagus, seed...} April-May........ I 2-4 in, 15 in.
Asparagus, plants..| April inet 4 x ft, 3 ft.
Bean, pole........}| May 15-June 10... 2 3 ft. 3 ft.
Bean, lima........] May 20-June ro... 2 sft; 3 ft.
Beet, late.........| April-August...... 2 3-4 in. 15 in.
Carrot, late. .cia 4. May-July........ $-1 2-3 in. 15 in.
Corn, late........| May 20-July ro... 2 3 ft. 4 ft.
Cucumber.........} May ro-July 15... I 4 ft. ait
Egg-plant, plants | June 1-20... .... 2 ft. 3o in.
Beeksiacsna ke oias ADH a sane Wenn ss 2-4 in 15 in.
Melon, musk...... May 15-June 15... I 4 ft. 4 ft.
Melon, water.. ...| May 15-Juners . 1 6-8 ft. 6-8 ft.
Onions ee sgsc oe sf Aprile cain asics d-r 2-4 in. 15 in.
Okiransiue tas se ase May 15-June 1s... $1 2 ft. 3 ft.
Parsley’..........| April-May.,....... + 4-6 in. 1 ft.
Parsnip 3c. a's 24-00-0-3 (ADDI fe sa ecad-s es d-1 3-5 in. 18 in.
Pepper, seed...... June rst t 3-6 in. 15 in.
Pepper, plants... .| June 1-20........ ie 2 ft. 30 in.
Potatoes, main....| April 15-June 20... 4-6 13 in. 30 in.
Pumpkins........| May 1-June 20.... 1-2 6-8 ft. 6-8 ft.
Rhubarb, plants...} April............ re 2-3 ft. 3 ft.
Salsify...........| April-May........ I 3-6 in. 18 in.
Squash, summer...| May 15-July 1.... 1-2 4 ft. 4 ft.
Squash, winter.... .| May 15-June 20... I-2 6-8 ft. 6-8 ft.
Tomato, seed..... Jae se ses eesarsv ae ey 3-4 in. 1s in.
Tomato, plants....}| May 15-July 20... 3 ft. 3 ft.

Note.—The
page 29.

index reference

numbers refer to notes on

26

HomME VEGETABLE GARDENING

SEED FOR
VEGETABLE 50 FT. VARIETIES
ROW

Asparagus, seed...} 1 0z Palmetto, Giant Argenteuil, Barr's Mammoth

Asparagus, plants.} 50 Palmetto, Giant Argenteuil, Barr's Mammoth

Bean pole........| 4 pt. Kentucky Wonder, Golden, Cluster, Burger's
Stringless

Bean, lima,...... 4 pt. Early Leviathan, Giant Podded, Burpee
Improved

Beet, late....... I OZ Crimson Globe

Carrot, late. .... $ oz. Danver’s Half-long, Ox-heart, Chantenay

Corn, late,........] 4 pt. Seymour's Sweet Orange, White Evergreen,
Country Gentleman

Cucumber. .......| 4.02 Early White Spine, Fordhook Famous, Davis
Perfect

Egg-plant, plants. | 25 Black Beauty, N. Y. Purple

Leek.............| $02 American Flag

Melon, musk..... . $02 Netted Gem, Emerald Gem, Hoodoo

Melon, water......] 402 Cole's Early, Sweetheart, Halbert Honey

Onion............| 402 Prizetaker, Danver’s Globe, Ailsa Craig,
Southport Red Globe, Mammoth Silver-
skin (white)

Okras ccs sens 4 02 Perfected Perkins, White Velvet

Parsley.. sends 4 02 Emerald

Parsnip.........+..| 4 02 Hollow Crowned (Improved)

Pepper, seed......] 4 0z Ruby King, Chinese Giant

Pepper, plants.....) 25 Ruby King, Chinese Giant

Potatoes, main....| 4 pk. Irish Cobbler, Green Mountain, Uncle Sam
(Noroton Beauty, Norwood, early)

Pumpkins.........] 4 0z Large Cheese, Quaker Pie

Rhubarb, plants..} 25 Myatt’s Victoria

Salsify...........] 2oz Mammoth Sandwich

Squash, summer...} + oz White Bush, Delicata, Fordhook, Vegetable
Marrow

Squash, winter....| } oz. Hubbard, Delicious

Tomato, seed.....| 4 0z Earliana, Chalk’s Jewel, Matchless, Dwarf
Giant

Tomato, plants....} 20 Earliana, Chalk's Jewel, Matchless, Dwarf

Giant

PLAN

27

Supre ot6 DISTANCE APART
VEGETABLE PLANT! SOW—INS.
SEEDs? ROWS
II. CROPS FOR SUCCESSION PLANTINGS
Bean, dwarf...... May s-Aug. 15... . 2 2-4 in. 14-2 ft.
Kohlrabi‘........ .| April-July........ 4-1 6-12 in, 14-2 ft.
Lettuce!.......... April-August...... 4 x ft. 1-14 ft.
Peas, smooth... .. April r-Aug. 1... . 2-3 2-4 in, 3 ft.
Peas, wrinkled... .| April 10-July 15.. 2-3 2-4 in. 3-4 ft.
Radish...........] April 1-Sept r.... + 2-3 in. x ft.
Spinachiniadeveas os April-Sept 15..... I 3-5 in. 18 in,
Turnip...........] April-Sept....... 4-1 4-6 in. 15 in.
III. CROPS TO BE FOLLOWED BY OTHERS
Beet, early.......] April-June....... 2 3-4 in. 15in
Broccoli, early4....| April.. h-r rt ft. 2 ft.
Borecole!......... April $-1 2 ft. 2g ft.
Brussels sprouts‘...| April...........-. h-x th ft. 2 ft.
Cabbage, early’..... April 3-1 rt ft. 2 ft.
Carrot. S260] Aptilasece ates co 4-1 2-3 in. 15 in,
Cauliflower! Je castes Aprils c.gercinsneeie ea 3-1 1h ft. a ft.
Corn, early....... May 10-20....... 2 3 ft. 3-4 ft.
Onion sets........ April-May 15..... 1-2 2-4 in. 15 in.
Peasiace teins ss April 1-May1.... a 2-4 in. 3 ft.
Crops in Sec. II
IV. CROPS THAT MAY FOLLOW OTHERS
Beet, late......... July-August...... 2 3-4 in. isin
Borecole May-June?....... $-1 2 ft. 2y ft
Broccoli May-June?....... 4-1 2 ft. ay ft
Brussels sprouts...| May-June?....... $-1 th ft. 2t ft.
Cabbage late.....| May-June? 4-1 ay ft. 2k ft.
Cauliflower....... May-June?....... 4-1 2 ft. 2k ft.
Celery, seed.......| April............ $ 1-2 in. rft. !
Celery, plant...... July r-Aug. 3... .. mx 6 in, 3-4 ft
Endive’..........] April-August..... t 1 ft. x ft.
Peas, late......... May 15-Aug. 1.... 2-3 2-4 in. 4 ft.
Crops in Sec. II.

28

HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

SEED FOR
VEGETABLE 50 FT. VARIETIES
ROW
II. CROPS FOR SUCCESSION PLANTINGS
Bean, dwarf.....] 1 pt. Red Valentine, Burpee’s Greenpod, Improved
P Refugee, Brittle Wax, Rust-proof Golden
Wax, Burpee's White Wax
Kohlrabi. 4 oz. White Vienna
Lettuce. 50 Mignonette, Grand Rapids, May King, Big
oston, New York, Deacon, Cos, Paris
White
Peas, smooth. .... 1 pt. American Wonder
Peas, wrinkled. I pt. Gradus, Boston Unrivaled, Quite Content
Radish... ccc. 4 oz. Rapid Red, Crimson Globe, Chinese
Spinach. ........] 4002. Swiss Chard Beet, Long Season, Victoria
Turnipyecginias scene) Oz: White Milan, Petrowski, Golden Ball
III. CROPS TO BE FOLLOWED BY OTHERS
Beet, early. ......) 1 oz, Edmund s Early, Early Model
Broccoli, early. ...} 35 Early White French
Borecole.........] 25 Dwarf Scotch Curled
Brussels sprouts. .| 35 Dalkeith, Danish Prize
Cabbage, early ...| 35 Wakefield, Glory of Enkhuisen, Early Sum-
mer, Succession, Savoy
Carret cssiscsis viens 4 02. Golden Ball, Early Scarlet Horn
Cauliflower. 35 Burpee's Best Early, Snowball, Sea-foam
Dry Weather
Corn, early. ...... pt. Golden Bantam, Peep o’ Day, Cory
Onion sets... 2 pt.
pt

Crops in Sec. II.

IV. CROPS THAT MAY FOLLOW OTHERS

Beet, late........
Borecole... 5.0535.
Broceohine jccsise-nae
Brussels sprouts. .
Cabbage, late......
Cauliflower. ......
Celery, seed. .....

Celery, plant. ....
Endive. .........

Peas, late.........
Crops in Sec. II.

Crimson Globe

Dwarf Scotch Curled

Early White French

Dalkeith, Danish Prize

Succession, Danish Ballhead Drumhead
s above. [Savoy, Mammoth Rock (red)

White Plume, Golden Self-blanching, Winter

Queen
White Plume, Golden Self-blanching, Winter
Queen
Broad-Leaved Batavian, Giant Fringed
Gradus

GE on il ic IA EEL

Select a bow-head rake rather than one in which

the teeth-bar is fastened directly to the shaft.
At the right is the uscful prong-hoe

PAPO CHR NRo tt

Four types of hoe;

from the left, the scuffle-
hoe, the heart-shaped hoe, the short hoe,

and the common hoe

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HIM nos jt umturuiu e 0} paonpar aq [LM ued Suljurid jo ssaso0id ajoyM ay} ‘JUgWYIL}}e
Japees []IIp ay} YUM soy JaayM eB savy NOA Fy

PLAN 29

REFERENCE NOTES FROM THE TABLES

1In the vicinity of New York City. Each 100 miles north or south will
make a difference of 5 to 7 days later or earlier.

2This is for sowing the seed. It will take three to six weeks before
plants areready. Hence the advantage of using the seed-bed. For instance,
you can start your late cabbage about June rsth, to follow the first crop of
peas, which should be cleared off by the roth of July.

8Distances given are those at which the growing plants should stand,
after thinning. Seed in drills should be sown several times as thick.

‘Best started in seed-bed, and afterward transplanted; but may be
sown where wanted and afterward thinned to the best plants.

Carter V,
IMPLEMENTS AND THEIR USES

T may seem to the reader that it is all very well
to make a garden with a pencil, but that the
work of transferring it to the soil must be

quite another problem and one entailing so much
work that he will leave it to the professional market
gardener. He possibly pictures to himself some
bent-kneed and stoop-shouldered man with the hoe,
and decides that after all there is too much work
in the garden game. What a revelation would be
in store for him if he could witness one day’s opera-
tions in a modern market garden! Very likely
indeed not a hoe would be seen during the entire
visit. Modern implements, within less than a gen-
eration, have revolutionized gardening.

This is true of the small garden as certainly as of
the large one: in fact, in proportion I am not sure
but that it is more so—because of the second won-
derful thing about modern garden tools, that is, the
low prices at which they can be bought, considering
the enormous percentage of labor saved in accom-

(30)

IMPLEMENTS 31

plishing results. There is nothing in the way of
expense to prevent even the most modest gardener
acquiring, during a few years, by the judicious ex-
penditure of but a few dollars annually, a very com-
plete outfit of tools that will handsomely repay their
cost.

While some garden tools have been improved and
developed out of all resemblance to their original
forms, others have changed little in generations, and
in probability will remain ever with us. There is a
thing or two to say about even the simplest of them,
however,—especially to anyone not familiar with
their uses.

There are tools for use in every phase of horticul-
tural operations; for preparing the ground, for
planting the seed, for cultivation, for protecting
crops from insects and disease, and for harvesting.

First of all comes the ancient and honorable spade,
which, for small garden plots, borders, beds, etc.,
must still be relied upon for the initial operation in
gardening—breaking up the soil. There are several
types, but any will answer the purpose. In buying
a spade look out for two things: see that it is well
strapped up the handle in front and back, and that it
hangs well. In spading up ground, especially soil
that is turfy or hard, the work may be made easier
by taking a strip not quite twice as wide as the
spade, and making diagonal cuts so that one vertical

33 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

edge of the spade at each thrust cuts clean out to
where the soil has already been dug. The wide-tined
spading-fork is frequently used instead of the spade,
as it is lighter and can be more advantageously used
to break up lumps and level off surfaces. In most
soils it will do this work as well, if not better, than
the spade and has the further good quality of being
serviceable as a fork too, thus combining two tools
in one. It should be more generally known and
used. With the ordinary fork, used for handling
manure and gathering up trash, weeds, etc., every
gardener is familiar. The type with oval, slightly
up-curved tines, five or six in number, and a D
handle, is the most convenient and comfortable for
garden use.

For areas large enough for a horse to turn around
in, use a plow. There are many good makes. The
swivel type has the advantage of turning all the fur-
rows one way, and is the best for small plots and
sloping ground. It should turn a clean, deep furrow.
In deep soil that has long been cultivated, plowing
should, with few exceptions, be down at least to the
subsoil; and if the soil is shallow it will be advisable
to turn up a little of the subsoil, at each plowing—
not more than an inch—in order that the soil may
gradually be deepened. In plowing sod it will be
well to have the plow fitted with a coulter, which
turns a miniature furrow ahead of the plowshare,

ssary in

s implements

ys buy bras

Of the sprayers alwa

aa
Hibs

There are many types of hand “dusters” and sprayers, one at least of which will be nece
the home garden.

A barrel-pump suitable for spraying on a larger
scale—useful in the home orchard

IMPLEMENTS 33

thus covering under all sods and grass and getting
them out of the way of harrows and other tools
to be used later. In plowing under tall-growing
green manures, like rye, a heavy chain is hung from
the evener to the handle, thus pulling the crop down
into the furrow so that it will all be covered under.
Where drainage is poor it will be well to break up
the subsoil with a subsoil plow, which follows in
the wake of the regular plow but does not lift the
subsoil to the surface.

TOOLS FOR PREPARING THE SEED-BED

The spade or spading-fork will be followed by
the hoe, or hook, and the iron rake; and the plow
by one or more of the various types of harrow. The
best type of hoe for use after the spade is the wide,
deep-bladed type. In most soils, however, this work
may be done more expeditiously with the hook or
prong-hoe (see illustration). With this the soil can
be thoroughly pulverized to a depth of several inches.
In using either, be careful not to pull up manure or
trash turned under by the spade, as all such mate-
rial if left covered will quickly rot away in the soil
and furnish the best sort of plant food. I should
think that our energetic manufactures would make
a prong-hoe with heavy wide blades, like those of
the spading-fork, but I have never seen such an
implement, either in use or advertised.

3

34 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

What the prong-hoe is to the spade, the harrow
is to the plow. For general purposes the Acme is
‘an excellent harrow. It is adjustable, and for
ground at all mellow will be the only one necessary ;
set it, for the first time over, to cut in deep; and
then, set for leveling, it will leave the soil in such
excellent condition that a light hand-raking (or, for
large areas, the Meeker smoothing-harrow) will pre-
pare it for the finest of seeds, such as onions and
carrots. The teeth of the Acme are so designed that
they practically constitute a gang of miniature
plows. Of disc harrows there are a great many
makes. The salient feature of the disc type is that
they can tear up no manure, grass or trash, even
when these are but partly turned under by the plow.
For this reason it is especially useful on sod or other
rough ground. The most convenient harrow for
putting on the finishing touches, for leveling off and
fining the surface of the soil, is the lever spike-tooth.
It is adjustable and can be used as a spike-tooth or
as a smoothing harrow.

Any of the harrows mentioned above (except the
Meeker) and likewise the prong-hoe, will have to be
followed by the iron rake when preparing the
ground for small-seeded garden vegetables. Get the
sort with what is termed the “bow” head (see illus-
tration) instead of one in which the head is fastened
directly to the end of the handle. It is less likely

A fine way to manage the compost heap—no waste and no unsightly pile

In order to be able to supply your garden soil with the
elements of plant food it really needs, you will have to keep a
record of production under various conditions, and then mix
your fertilizers in the proper proportions to suit. Break up
all lumps and mix the ingredients by hoeing in a box

IMPLEMENTS 26

to get broken, and easier to use. There is quite a
knack in manipulating even a garden rake, which
will come only with practice. Do not rake as though
you were gathering up leaves or grass. The secret
in using the garden rake is no¢,to gather things up.
Small stones, lumps of earth and such things, you
of course wish to remove. Keep these raked off
ahead of where you are leveling the soil, which is
accomplished with a backward-and-forward move-
ment of the rake.

The tool-house of every garden of any size should
contain a seed-drill. Labor which is otherwise te-
dious and difficult is by it rendered mere play—as
well as being better done. The operations of mark-
ing the row, opening the furrow, dropping the seed
at the proper depth and distance, covering imme-
diately with fresh earth, and firming the soil, are all
done at one fell swoop and as fast as you can walk.
It will even drop seeds in hills. But that is not all:
it may be had as part of a combination machine,
which, after your seeds are planted—with each row
neatly rolled on top, and plainly visible—may be at
once transformed into a wheel hoe that will save
you as much time in caring for your plants as the
seed-drill did in planting your seed. Hoeing
drudgery becomes a thing of the past. The illustra-
tion herewith shows such a machine, and some of
the varied attachments which may be had for it.

30 HomMeE VEGETABLE GARDENING

There are so many, and so varied in usefulness, that
it would require an entire chapter to detail their
special advantages and methods of use. The cata-
logues describing them will give you many valuable
suggestions; and other ways of utilizing them will
discover themselves to you in your work.

Valuable as the wheel hoe is, however, and varied
in its scope of work, the time-tried hoe cannot be
entirely dispensed with. An accompanying photo-
graph (facing p. 28) shows four distinct types, all
of which will pay for themselves in a garden of mod-
erate size. The one on the right is the one most
generally seen; next to it is a modified form which
personally I prefer for all light work, such as
loosening soil and cutting out weeds. It is lighter
and smaller, quicker and easier to handle. Next to
this is the Warren, or heart-shaped hoe, especially
valuable in opening and covering drills for seed,
such as beans, peas or corn. The scuffle-hoe, or
scarifier, which completes the four, is used between
narrow rows for shallow work, such as cutting off
small weeds and breaking up the crust. It has been
rendered less frequently needed by the advent of
the wheel hoe, but when crops are too large to admit
of the use of the latter, the scuffle-hoe is still an
indispensable time-saver.

There remains one task connected with gardening
that is a bug-bear. That is hand-weeding. To get

IMPLEMENTS 37

down on one’s hands and knees, in the blistering hot
dusty soil, with the perspiration trickling down into
one’s eyes, and pick small weedlets from among ten-
der plantlets, is not a pleasant occupation. There
are, however, several sorts of small weeders which
lessen the work considerably. One or another of the
common types will seem preferable, according to
different conditions of soil and methods of work.
Personally, I prefer the Lang’s for most uses (fac-
ing p. 38). The angle blade makes it possible to cut
very near to small plants and between close-growing
plants, while the strap over the back of a finger or
thumb leaves the fingers free for weeding without
dropping the instrument.

There are two things to be kept in mind about
hand-weeding which will reduce this work to the
minimum. First, never let the weeds get a start; for
even if they do not increase in number, if they once
smother the ground or crop, you will wish you had
never heard of a garden. Second, do your hand-
weeding while the surface soil is soft, when the
weeds come out easily. A hard-crusted soil will
double and treble the amount of labor required.

It would seem that it should be needless, when
garden tools are such savers of labor, to suggest that
they should be carefully kept, always bright and
clean and sharp, and in repair. But such advice is
needed, to judge by most of the tools one sees.

38 HomE VEGETABLE GARDENING

Always have a piece of cloth or old bag on hand
where the garden tools are kept, and never put them
away soiled and wet. Keep the cutting edges sharp.
There is as much pleasure in trying to run a dull
lawnmower as in working wth a rusty, battered hoe.
Have an extra handle in stock in case of accident;
they are not expensive. In selecting hand tools,
always pick out those with handles in which the
grain does not run out at the point where there will
be much strain in using the tool. In rakes, hoes,
etc., get the types with ferrule and shank one con-
tinuous piece, so as not to be annoyed with loose
heads.

Spend a few cents to send for some implement
catalogues. They will well repay careful perusal,
even if you do not order this year. In these days
of intensive advertising, the commercial catalogue
often contains matter of great worth, in the gath-
ering and presentation of which no expense has been
spared.

FOR FIGHTING PLANT ENEMIES

The devices and implements used for fighting
plant enemies are of two sorts:—(1) those used to
afford mechanical protection to the plants; (2) those
used to apply insecticides and fungicides. Of the
first the most useful is the covered frame. It con-
sists usually of a wooden box, some eighteen inches

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Pulverize and level the soil by a backward-and-
forward motion of the rake, not attempting to
rake off all the small stones. Choose the bow-
head rake rather than this pattern, as_ the
former is stronger

IMPLEMENTS 39

to two feet square and about eight high, covered with
glass, protecting cloth, mosquito netting or mosquito
wire. The first two coverings have, of course, the
additional advantage of retaining heat and protect-
ing from cold, making it possible by their use to plant
earlier than is otherwise safe. They are used exten-
sively in getting an extra early and safe start with
cucumbers, melons and the other vine vegetables.

Simpler devices for protecting newly-set plants,
such as tomatoes or cabbage, from the cut-worm, are
stiff, tin, cardboard or tar paper collars, which are
made several inches high and large enough to be
put around the stem and penetrate an inch or so into
the soil.

For applying poison powders, such as dry Paris
green, hellebore and tobacco dust, the home gardener
should supply himself with a powder gun, two types
of which are illustrated facing p. 32. If one must
be restricted to a single implement, however, it will
be best to get one of the hand-power, compressed-
air sprayers—either a knapsack pump or a com-
pressed-air sprayer—types of which are illustrated.
These are used for applying wet sprays, and should
be supplied with one of the several forms of mist-
making nozzles, the non-cloggable automatic type
being the best. For more extensive work a barrel
pump, mounted on wheels, will be desrable, but one
of the above will do a great deal of work in little

40 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

time. Extension rods for use in spraying trees and
vines may be obtained for either. (See illustration in
chapter on spraying, facing p. 215.) For operations
on a very small scale a good hand-syringe may be
used, but as a general thing it will be best to invest a
few dollars more and get a small tank sprayer, as
this throws a continuous stream or spray and holds
a much larger amount of the spraying solution.
Whatever type is procured, get a brass machine—
it will out-wear three or four of those made of
cheaper metal, which succumbs very quickly to the,
corroding action of the strong poisons and chemicals
used in them.

Of implements for harvesting, beside the spade,
prong-hoe and spading-fork already mentioned, very
few are used in the small garden, as most of them
need not only long rows to be economically used,
but horse-power also. The onion harvester attach-
ment for the double wheel hoe, costing $1.00, may
be used with advantage in loosening onions, beets,
turnips, etc., from the soil or for cutting spinach.
Running the hand-plow close on either side of car-
rots, parsnips and other deep-growing vegetables
will aid materially in getting them out. For fruit
picking, with tall trees, the wire-fingered fruit-picker,
secured to the end of a long handle, will be of great
assistance, but with the modern method of using low-
headed trees it will not be needed.

IMPLEMENTS 41

Another class of garden implements are those
used in pruning—but where this is attended to prop-
erly from the start, a good sharp jack-knife and a
pair of pruning shears (the English makes are the
best, as they are in some things, when we are frank
enough to confess the truth) will easily handle all
the work of the kind necessary.

Still another sort of garden device is that used
for supporting the plants; such as stakes, trellises,
wires, etc. Altogether too little attention usually is
given these, as with proper care in storing over win-
ter they will not only last for years, but add greatly
to the convenience of cultivation and to the neat
appearance of the garden. Various contrivances are
illustrated in the seed catalogues, and many may be
home-made—such as the stake-trellis for supporting
beans, illustrated facing p. 106.

As a final word to the intending purchaser of gar-
den tools, I would say: first thoroughly investigate
the different sorts available, and when buying, do
not forget that a good tool or a well-made machine
will be giving you satisfactory use long, long after
the price is forgotten, while a poor one is a constant
source of discomfort. Get good tools, and take
good care of them. And let me repeat that a few
dollars a year, judiciously spent, for tools afterward
well cared for, will soon give you a very complete
set, and add to your garden profit and pleasure.

CHAPTER VI.

MANURES AND FERTILIZERS

O a very small extent garden vegetables get
their food from the air. The amount ob-
tained in this way however, is so infinitesi-

mal that from the practical standpoint it need not be
considered at all. Practically speaking, your vegeta-
bles must get all their food from the garden soil.

This important garden fact may seem self-evi-
dent, but, if one may judge by their practice, ama-
teur gardeners very frequently fail to realize it. The
professional gardener must come to realize it for the
simple reason that if he does not he will go out of
business. Without an abundant supply of suitable
food it is just as impossible to grow good vegetables
as it would be to train a winning football team on a.
diet of sweet cider and angel cake. Without plenty
of plant food, all the care, coddling, coaxing, culti-
vating, spraying and worrying you may give will
avail little. The soil must be rich or the garden will
be poor.

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FERTILIZERS 43

Plant food is of as many kinds, or, more accurately
speaking, in as many forms, as is food for human
beings. But the first distinction to make in plant
foods is that between available and non-available
foods—that is, between foods which it is possible
for the plant to use, and those which must undergo
a change of some sort before the plant can take
them up, assimilate them, and turn them into a
healthy growth of foliage, fruit or root. It is just
as readily possible for a plant to starve in a soil
abounding in plant food, if that food is not avail-
able, as it would be for you to go unnourished in the
midst of soups and tender meats if the latter were
frozen solid.

Plants take all their nourishment in the form of
soups, and very weak ones at that. Plant food to be
available must be soluble to the action of the feeding
root tubes; and unless it is available it might, as far
as the present benefiting of your garden is concerned,
just as well not be there at all. Plants take up their
food through innumerable and microscopic feeding
rootlets, which possess the power of absorbing
moisture, and furnishing it, distributed by the plant
juices, or sap, to stem, branch, leaf, flower and fruit.
There is one startling fact which may help to fix
these things in your memory: it takes from 300 to
500 pounds of water to furnish food for the build-
ing of one pound of dry plant matter. You can see

44 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

why plant food is not of much use unless it is avail-
able; and it is not available unless it is soluble.

THE THEORY OF MANURING

The food of plants consists of chemical elements,
or rather, of numerous substances which contain
these elements in greater or less degrees. There
is not room here to go into the interesting science
of this matter. It is evident, however, as we have
already seen that the plants must get their food
from the soil, that there are but two sources for
such food: it must either be in the soil already, or
we must put it there. The practice of adding plant
food to the soil is what is called manuring.

The only three of the chemical elements mentioned
which we need consider are: nitrogen, phosphoric
acid, and potash. The average soil contains large
amounts of all three, but they are for the most part
in forms which are not available and, therefore, to
that extent, may be at once dismissed from our con-
sideration. (The non-available plant foods already
in the soil may be released or made available to some
extent by cultivation. See Chapter VII.) In prac-
tically every soil that has been cultivated and
cropped, in long-settled districts, the amounts of
nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash which are im-
mediately available will be too meager to produce
a good crop of vegetables. It becomes absolutely

FERTILIZERS 45

necessary then, if one would have a really successful
garden, no matter how small it is, to add plant foods
to the soil abundantly. When you realize, (1) that
the number of plant foods containing the three es-
sential elements is almost unlimited, (2) that each
contains them in different proportions and in differ-
ing degrees of availability, (3) that the amount of
the available elements already in the soil varies
greatly and is practically undeterminable, and (4)
that different plants, and even different varieties of
the same plant, use these elements in widely differing
proportions; then you begin to understand what a
complex matter this question of manuring is and
why it is so much discussed and so little understood.
What a labyrinth it offers for any writer—to say
nothing of the reader—to go astray in!

I have tried to present this matter clearly. If I
have succeeded it may have been only to make the
reader hopelessly discouraged of ever getting at any-
thing definite in the question of enriching the soil.
In that case my advice would be that, for the time
being, he forget all about it. Fortunately, in the
question of manuring, a little knowledge is not often
a dangerous thing. Fortunately, too, your plants do
not insist that you solve the food problem for them.
Set a full table and they will help themselves and
take the right dishes. The only thing to worry
about is that of the three important foods men-

46 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

tioned (nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash) there
will not be enough: for it has been proved that when
any one of these is exhausted the plant practically
stops growth; it will not continue to “fill up” on the
other two. Of course there is such a thing as going
to extremes and wasting plant foods, even if it does
not, as a rule, hurt the plants. If, however, the fer-
tilizers and manures described in the following
pages are applied as directed, and as mentioned in
Chapter VII., good results will be certain, provided
the seed, cultivation and season are right.

VARIOUS MANURES

The terms “manure” and “fertilizer” are used
somewhat ambiguously and interchangeably. Using
the former term in a broad sense—as meaning any
substance containing available plant food applied to
the soil, we may say that manure is of two kinds:
organic, such as stable manure, or decayed vegetable
matter; and inorganic, such as potash salts, phos-
phatic rock and commercial mixed fertilizers. Ina
general way the term “fertilizer” applies to these
inorganic manures, and [I shall use it in this sense
through the following pages.

Between the organic manures, or “natural”
manures ‘as they are often called, and fertilizers
there is a very important difference which should
never be lost sight of. In theory, and as a chemical

FERTILIZERS 47

fact too, a bag of fertilizer may contain twice the
available plant food of a ton of well rotted manure;
but out of a hundred practical gardeners ninety-nine
—and probably one more—would prefer the manure.
There is a reason why—two reasons, even if not one
of the hundred gardeners could give them to you.
First, natural manures have a decided physical effect
upon most soils (altogether aside from the plant
food they contain) ; and second, plants seem to have
a preference as to the form in which their food ele-
ments are served to them. Fertilizers, on the other
hand, are valuable only for the plant food they con-
tain, and sometimes have a bad effect upon the
physical condition of the soil.

When it comes right down to the practical ques-
tion of what to put on your garden patch to grow
big crops, nothing has yet been discovered that is
better than the old reliable stand-by—well rotted,
thoroughly fined stable or barnyard manure. Heed
those adjectives! We have already seen that plant
food which is not available might as well be, for our
immediate purposes, at the North Pole. The plant
food in “green” or fresh manure is not available,
and does not become so until it is released by the
decay of the organic matters therein. Now the time
possible for growing a crop of garden vegetables is
limited; in many instances it is only sixty to ninety
days. The plants want their food ready at once;

48 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

there is no time to be lost waiting for manure to
rot in the soil. That is a slow process—especially
so in clayey or heavy soils. So on your garden use
only manure that is well rotted and broken up. On
the other hand, see that it has not “fire-fanged” or
burned out, as horse manure, if piled by itself and
left, is very sure to do. If you keep any animals
of your own, see that the various sorts of manure—
excepting poultry manure, which is so rich that it
is a good plan to keep it for special purposes—are
mixed together and kept in a compact, built-up
square heap, not a loose pyramidal pile. Keep it
under cover and where it cannot wash out. If you
have a pig or so, your manure will be greatly im-
proved by the rooting, treading and mixing they
will give it. If not, the pile should be turned from
bottom to top and outside in and rebuilt, treading
down firmly in the process, every month or two—
applying water, but not soaking, if it has dried out
in the meantime. Such manure will be worth two
or three times as much, for garden purposes, as that
left to burn or remain in frozen lumps. If you have
to buy all your manure, get that which has been
properly kept; and if you are not familiar with the
condition in which it should be, get a disinterested
gardener or farmer to select it for you. When pos-
sible, it will pay you to procure manure several
months before you want to use it and work it over

FERTILIZERS 49

as suggested above. In buying manure keep in mind
not what animals made it, but what food was fed—
that is the important thing. For instance, the ma-
nure from highly-fed livery horses may be, weight
for weight, worth three to five times that from cattle
wintered over on poor hay, straw and a few roots.

There are other organic manures which it is some-
times possible for one to procure, such as refuse
brewery hops, fish scraps and sewage, but they
are as a rule out of the reach of, or objectionable
for, the purposes of the home gardener.

There are, however, numerous things constantly
going to waste about the small place, which should
be converted into manure. Fallen leaves, grass clip-
pings, vegetable tops and roots, green weeds, gar-
bage, house slops, dish water, chip dirt from the
wood-pile, shavings—any thing that will rot away,
should go into the compost heap. These should be
saved, under cover if possible, in a compact heap
and kept moist (never soaked) to help decomposi-
tion. To start the heap, gather up every available
substance and make it into a pile with a few wheel-
barrows full, or half a cartload, of fresh horse man-
ure, treading the whole down firmly. Fermentation
and decomposition will be quickly started. The heap
should occasionally be forked over and restacked.
Light dressings of lime, mixed in at such times, will
aid thorough decomposition.

4

5° HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

Wood ashes form another valuable manure which
should be carefully saved. Beside the plant food
contained, they have a most excellent effect upon the
mechanical condition of almost every soil. Ashes
should not be put in the compost heap, because there
are special uses for them, such as dusting on squash
or melon vines, or using on the onion bed, which
makes it desirable to keep them separate. Wood
ashes may frequently be bought for fifty cents a
barrel, and at this price a few barrels for the home
garden will be a good investment.

Coal ashes contain practically no available plant
food, but are well worth saving to use on stiff soils,
for paths, etc.

VALUE OF GREEN MANURING

‘Another source of organic manures, altogether
too little appreciated, is what is termed “green
manuring”—the plowing under of growing crops to
enrich the land. Even in the home garden this sys-
tem should be taken advantage of whenever possible.
In farm practice, clover is the most valuable crop
to use for this purpose, but on account of the length
of time necessary to grow it, it is useful for the vege-
table garden only when there is sufficient room to
have clover growing on, say, one half-acre plot,
while the garden occupies, for two years, another
half-acre; and then changing the two about. This

FERTILIZERS 51

system will give an ideal garden soil, especially
where it is necessary to rely for the most part upon
chemical fertilizers.

There are, however, four crops valuable for green-
manuring the garden, even where the same spot
must be occupied year after year: rye, field corn,
field peas (or cow peas in the south) and crimson
clover. After the first of September, sow every
foot of garden ground cleared of its last crop, with
winter rye. Sow all ground cleared during August
with crimson clover and buckwheat, and mulch the
clover with rough manure after the buckwheat dies
down. Sow field peas or corn on any spots that
would otherwise remain unoccupied six weeks or
more. All these are sown broadcast, on a freshly
raked surface. Such a system will save a very large
amount of plant food which otherwise would be
lost, will convert unavailable plant food into availa-
ble forms while you wait for the next crop, and add
humus to the soil—concerning the importance of
which see Chapter VII., page 67.

CHEMICAL FERTILIZERS

I am half tempted to omit entirely any discussion
of chemical fertilizers: to give a list of them, tell
how to apply them, and let the why and wherefore
go. It is, however, such an important subject, and
the home gardener will so frequently have to rely

52 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

almost entirely upon their use, that probably it will
be best to explain the subject as thoroughly as I can
do it in very limited space. I shall try te give the
theory of scientific chemical manuring in one
paragraph.

We have already seen that the soil contains within
itself some available plant food. We can determine
by chemical analysis the exact amounts of the va-
rious plant foods—nitrogen, phosphoric acid, potash,
etc.—which a crop of any vegetable will remove
from the soil. The idea in scientific chemical ma-
nuring is to add to the available plant foods already
in the soil just enough more to make the resulting
amounts equal to the quantities of the various ele-
ments used by the crop grown. In other words:

Available plant food elements in
the soil, plus
Available chemical food elements
supplied in fertilizers

Amounts of food ele-
= ments in matured
crop

That was the theory—a very pretty and profound
one! The discoverers of it imagined that all agri-
culture would be revolutionized; all farm and
garden practice reduced to an exact science; all older
theories of husbandry and tillage thrown by the
heels together upon the scrap heap of outworn
things. Science was to solve at one fell swoop all
the age-old problems of agriculture. And the whole
thing was all right in every way but one—it didn’t

FERTILIZERS 53

work. The unwelcome and obdurate fact remained
that a certain number of pounds of nitrogen, phos-
phoric acid and potash—about thirty-three—in a
ton of good manure would grow bigger crops than
would the same number of pounds of the same ele-
ments in a bag of chemical fertilizer.

Nevertheless this theory, while it failed as the
basis of an exact agricultural science, has been de-
veloped into an invaluable guide for using all
manures, and especially concentrated chemical ma-
nures. And the above facts, if I have presented
them clearly, will assist the home gardener in solv-
ing the fertilizer problems which he is sure to
encounter.

VARIOUS FERTILIZERS

What are termed the raw materials from which
the universally known “mixed fertilizers” are made
up, are organic or inorganic substances which con-
tain nitrogen, phosphoric acid or potash in fairly
definite amounts.

Some of these can be used to advantage by them-
selves. Those practical for use by the home gar-
dener, I mention. The special uses to which they
are adapted will be mentioned in Part Two, under
the vegetables for which they are valuable.

Grounp Bone is rich in phosphate and lasts a
long time; what is called “raw bone” is the best.

54 HomME VEGETABLE GARDENING

“Bone dust” or “bone flour” is finely pulverized; it
will produce quick results, but does not last as long
as the coarser forms.

CoTTON-SEED MEAL is one of the best nitrogenous
fertilizers for garden crops. It is safer than nitrate
of soda in the hands of the inexperienced gardener,
and decays very quickly in the soil.

‘PERUVIAN GUANO, in the pure form, is now prac-
tically out of the market. Lower grades, less rich
in nitrogen especially, are to be had; and also “forti-
fied” guano, in which chemicals are added to in-
crease the content of nitrogen. It is good for quick
results.

Nitrate oF Sopa, when properly handled, fre-
quently produces wonderful results in the garden,
particularly upon quick-growing crops. It is the
richest in nitrogen of any chemical generally used,
and a great stimulant to plant growth. When used
alone it is safest to mix with an equal bulk of light
dirt or some other filler. If applied pure, be sure
to observe the following rules or you may burn
your plants: (1) Pulverize all lumps; (2) see that
none of it lodges upon the foliage; (3) never apply
when there is moisture upon the plants; (4) apply
in many small doses—say 10 to 20 pounds at a time
for 50 x 100 feet of garden. It should be put on
so sparingly as to be barely visible; but its presence
will soon be denoted by the moist spot, looking like

: iE Mie i
If the soil after rain compresses into a pasty compact
mass, turn to another spot for your garden site

If the compressed ball of earth crumbles apart in the
hands when released, it is good garden loam.

a a al

~ ie oe Di 3

Sow small seeds directly from the packet, shak-
ing them directly into the drill when there is
no wind. Cover at once

Tn order to avoid washing out the seeds by
watering, cover the flat with burlap to case the
force of the water

FERTILIZERS 55

a big rain drop, which each particle of it makes in
the dry soil. Nitrate of soda may also be used
sately in solution, at the rate of 1 pound to 12
gallons of water. I describe its use thus at length
because I consider it the most valuable single chemi-
cal which the gardener has at command.

MouriaTE and SULPHATE OF PoTasH are also
used by themselves as sources of potash, but as a
general thing it will be best to use them in combina-
tion with other chemicals as described uader “Home
Mixing.”

Lime will be of benefit to most soils. It acts
largely as an indirect fertilizer, helping to release
other food elements already in the soil, but in non-
available forms. It should be applied once in three
to five years, at the rate of 75 to 100 bushels per
acre, after plowing, and thoroughly harrowed in.
Apply as long before planting as possible, or in the
fall.

MIXED FERTILIZERS

Mixed fertilizers are of innumerable brands, and
for sale everywhere. It is little use to pay attention
to the claims made for them. Even where the
analysis is guaranteed, the ordinary gardener has
no way of knowing that the contents of his few bags
are what they are labeled. The best you can do,
however, is to buy on the basis of analysis, not of

56 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

price per ton—usually the more you pay per bag,
the cheaper you are really buying your actual plant
food. Send to the Experiment Station in your State
and ask for the last bulletin on fertilizer values. It
will give a list of the brands sold throughout the
State, the retail price per ton, and the actual value
of plant foods contained in a ton. Then buy the
brand in which you will apparently get the greatest
value.

For garden crops the mixed fertilizer you use
should contain (about) :

Nitrogen, 4 per cent. Basic formula
Phosphoric acid, 8 per cent. } = for
Potash, 10 per cent. Garden crops

If applied alone, use at the rate of 1000 to 1500
pounds per acre. If with manure, less, in propor-
tion to the amount of the latter used.

By “basic formula’ (see above) is meant one
which contains the plant foods in the proportion
which all garden crops must have. Particular crops
may need additional amounts of one or more of the
three elements, in order to attain their maximum
growth. Such extra feeding is usually supplied by
top dressings, during the season of growth. The
extra food beneficial to the different vegetables will
be mentioned in the cultural directions in Part Two.

FERTILIZERS 57

HOME MIXING

If you look over the Experiment Station report
mentioned above, you will notice that what are called
“home mixtures’? almost invariably show a higher
value compared to the cost than any regular brand.
In some cases the difference is fifty per cent. This
means that you can buy the raw chemicals and make
up your own mixtures cheaper than you can buy
mixed fertilizers. More than that, it means you
will have purer mixtures. More than that, it means
you will have on hand the materials for giving your
crops the special feeding mentioned above. The
idea widely prevails, thanks largely to the fertilizer
companies, that home mixing cannot be practically
done, especially upon a small scale. From both in-
formation and personal experience I know the
contrary to be the case. With a tight floor or plat-
form, a square-pointed shovel and a coarse wire
screen, there is absolutely nothing impractical about
it. The important thing is to see that all ingredients
are evenly and thoroughly mixed. A scale for
weighing will also be a convenience. Further in-
formation may be had from the firms which sell raw
materials, or from your Experiment Station.

APPLYING MANURES

The matter of properly applying manure, even on
the small garden, is also of importance. In amount,

58 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

from fifteen to twenty-five cords, or 60 to 100 cart-
loads, will not be too much; although if fertilizers
are used to help out, the manure may be decreased
in proportion. If possible, take it from the heap in
which it has been rotting, and spread evenly over the
soil immediately before plowing. If actively fer-
menting, it will lose by being exposed to wind and
sun. If green, or in cold weather, it may be spread
and left until plowing is done. When plowing, it
should be completely covered under, or it will give
all kinds of trouble in sowing and cultivating.

Fertilizers should be applied, where used to sup-
plement manure or in place of it, at from 500 to
1500 pounds per acre, according to grade and other
conditions. It is sown on broadcast, after plowing,
care being taken to get it evenly distributed. This
may be assured by sowing half while going across
the piece, and the other half while going lengthwise
of it. When used as a starter, or for top dressings
—as mentioned in connection with the basic formula
—it may be put in the hill or row at time of planting,
or applied on the surface and worked in during the
growth of the plants. In either case, especially with
highly concentrated chemicals, care must be taken to
mix them thoroughly with the soil and to avoid
burning the tender roots.

This chapter is longer than I wanted to make it,
but the problem of how best to enrich the soil is the

4)

FERTILIZERS 59

most difficult one in the whole business of gardening,
and the degree of your success in growing vegetables
will be measured pretty much by the extent to which
you master it. You cannot do it at one reading.
Re-read this chapter, and when you understand the
several subjects mentioned, in the brief way which
limited space made necessary, pursue them farther
in one of the several comprehensive books on the
subject. It will well repay all the time you spend
upon it. Because, from necessity, there has been so
much of theory mixed up with the practical in this
chapter, I shall very briefly recapitulate the direc-
tions for just what to do, in order that the subject
of manuring may be left upon the same practical
basis governing the rest of the book.

To make your garden rich enough to grow big
crops, buy the most thoroughly worked over and
decomposed manure you can find. If it is from
grain-fed animals, and if pigs have run on it, it will
be better yet. If possible, buy enough to put on at
the rate of about twenty cords to the acre; if not,
supplement the manure, which should be plowed un-
der, with 500 to 1500 pounds of high-grade mixed
fertilizer (analyzing nitrogen four per cent., phos-
phoric acid eight per cent., potash ten per cent. )—
the quantity in proportion to the amount of manure
used, and spread on broadcast after plowing and
thoroughly harrowed in. In addition to this general

60 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

enrichment of the soil, suitable quantities of nitrate
of soda, for nitrogen; bone dust (or acid phosphate),
for phosphoric acid; and sulphate of potash, for
potash, should be bought for later dressings, as sug-
gested in cultural directions for the various crops.

If the instructions in the above paragraph are
followed out you may rest assured that your vegeta-
bles will not want for plant food and that, if other
conditions are favorable, you will have maximum
crops.

CHAPTER VII

THE SOIL AND ITS PREPARATION

limited space available permitted, the mat-

ter of plant foods, we must proceed to the
equally important one of how properly to set the
table, on or rather in, which they must be placed,
before the plants can use them.

As was noted in the first part of the preceding
chapter, most tillable soils contain the necessary
plant food elements to a considerable extent, but
only in a very limited degree in available forms.
They are locked up in the soil larder, and only after
undergoing physical and chemical changes may be
taken up by the feeding roots of plants. They are
unlocked only by the disintegration and decomposi-
tion of the soil particles, under the influence of cul-
tivation—or mechanical breaking up—and the access
of water, air and heat.

The great importance of the part the soil must
play in every garden operation is therefore readily
seen. In the first place, it is required to furnish

(61)

| | AVING considered, as thoroughly as the

62 HoMeE VEGETABLE GARDENING

all the plant food elements—some seven in number,
beside the three, nitrogen, phosphoric acid and
potash, already mentioned. In the second, it must
hold the moisture in which these foods must be
either dissolved or suspended before plant roots can
take them up.

The soil is naturally classified in two ways: first,
as to the amount of plant food contained; second,
as to its mechanical condition—the relative propor-
tions of sand, decomposed stone and clay, of which
it is made up, and also the degree to which it has
been broken up by cultivation.

The approximate amount of available plant food
already contained in the soil can be determined sat-
isfactorily only by experiment. As before stated,
however, almost without exception they will need
liberal manuring to produce good garden crops. I
shall therefore not go further into the first classifica-
tion of soils mentioned.

Of soils, according to their variation in mechan-
ical texture, I shall mention only the three which the
home gardener is likely to encounter. Rocks are the
original basis of all soils, and according to the de-
gree of fineness to which they have been reduced,
through centuries of decomposition by air, moisture
and frost, they are known as gravelly, sandy or
clayey soils.

Cray Soirs are stiff, wet, heavy and usually

THE SOIL 63

“cold.” For garden purposes, until properly trans-
formed, they hold too much water, are difficult to
handle, and are “late.” But even if there be no
choice but a clay soil for the home garden, the gar-
dener need not be discouraged. By proper treatment
it may be brought into excellent condition for grow-
ing vegetables, and will produce some sorts, such as
celery, better than any warm, light, “garden” soil.
The first thing to do with the clay soil garden, is to
have it thoroughly drained. For the small amount
of ground usually required for a home garden, this
will entail no great expense. Under ordinary con-
ditions, a half-acre garden could be under-drained
for from $25 to $50—probably nearer the first
figure. The drains—round drain tile, with collars—
should be placed at least three feet deep, and if they
can be put four, it will be much better. The lines
should be, for the former depth, twenty to thirty
feet apart, according to character of the soil; if four
feet deep, they will accomplish just as much if put
thirty to fifty feet apart—so it pays to put them in
deep. For small areas 21-inch land tile will do.
The round style gives the best satisfaction and will
prove cheapest in the end. The outlet should of
course be at the lowest point of land, and all drains,
main and laterals, should fall slightly, but without
exception, toward this point. Before undertaking to
put in the drains, even on a small area, it will pay

64 HomME VEGETABLE GARDENING

well to read some good book on the subject, such as
Draining for Profit and Draining for Health, by
Waring. ;

But drain—if your land requires it. It will in-
crease the productiveness of your garden at least 50
to 100 per cent.—and such an increase, as you can
readily see, will pay a very handsome annual divi-
dend on the cost of draining. Moreover, the drain-
ing system, if properly put in, will practically never
need renewal.

On land that has a stiff or clay sub-soil, it will
pay well to break this up—thus making it more
possible for the water to soak down through the
surface soil rapidly—by using the sub-soil plow.
(See Chapter V.)

The third way to improve clay soils is by using
coarse vegetable manures, large quantities of stable
manures, ashes, chips, sawdust, sand, or any similar
materials, which will tend to break up and lighten
the soil mechanically. Lime and land plaster are
also valuable, as they cause chemical changes which
tend to break up clayey soils.

The fourth thing to do in treating a garden of
heavy soil is to plow, ridging up as much as possible,
in the fall, thus leaving the soil exposed to the pul-
verizing influences of weather and frost. Usually
it will not need replowing in the spring. If not
plowed until the spring, care should be taken not to

THE SOIL 65

plow until it has dried out sufficiently to crumble
from the plow, instead of making a wet, pasty
furrow.

The owner of a clayey garden has one big conso-
lation. It will not let his plant food go to waste.
It will hold manures and fertilizers incorporated
with it longer than any other soil.

SANDy Sort is, as the term implies, composed
largely of sand, and is the reverse of clay soil. So,
also, with the treatment. It should be so handled
as to be kept as compact as possible. The use of a
heavy roller, as frequently as possible, will prove
very beneficial. Sowing or planting should follow
immediately after plowing, and fertilizers or ma-
nures should be applied only immediately before.

If clay soil is obtainable nearby, a small area of
sandy soil, such as is required for the garden, can be
made into excellent soil by the addition of the
former, applied as you would manure. Plow the
garden in the fall and spread the clay soil on evenly,
harrowing in with a disc in the spring. The result
will be as beneficial as that of an equal dressing of
good manure—and will be permanent.

It is one of the valuable qualities of lime, and also
of gypsum to even a greater extent, that while it
helps a clay soil, it is equally valuable for a sandy
one. The same is true of ashes and of the organic
manures—especially of green manuring. Fertiliz-

5

66 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

ers, on sandy soils, where they will not long be
retained, should be applied only immediately before
planting, or as top and side dressing during growth.

Sandy soil in the garden will produce early and
quick results, and is especally adapted to melons,
cucumbers, beans and a number of the other garden
vegetables.

GRAVELLY SOIL is generally less desirable than
either of the others; it has the bad qualities of sandy
soil and not the good ones of clay, besides being
poorer in plant food. (Calcareous, or limestone
pebble, soils are an exception, but they are not widely
encountered.) They are not suited for garden
work, as tillage harms rather than helps them.

Tue IpEAL GARDEN Sor is what is known as a
“rich, sandy loam,” at least eight inches deep; if it
is eighteen it will be better. It contains the proper
proportions of both sand and clay, and further has
been put into the best of mechanical condition by
good tilth.

That last word brings us to a new and very im-
portant matter. “In good tilth” is a condition of
the soil difficult to describe, but a state that the gar-
dener comes soon to recognize. Ground, continually
and properly cultivated, comes soon to a degree of
fineness and lightness at once recognizable. Rain is
immedately absorbed by it, and does not stand upon
the surface; it does not readily clog or pack down;

THE SOIL 67

it is crumbly and easily worked; and until your gar-
den is brought to this condition you cannot attain
the greatest success from your efforts. I emphasized
“properly cultivated.” That means that the soil
must be kept well supplied with humus, or decom-
posed vegetable matter, either by the application of
sufficient quantities of organic manures, or by green
manuring, or by “resting under grass,” which pro-
duces a similar result from the amount of roots and
stubble with which the soil is filled when the sod is
broken up. Only by this supply of humus can the
garden be kept in that light, friable, spongy condi-
tion which is absolutely essential to luxuriant vege-
table growth.

PREPARING THE SOIL

Unless your garden be a very small one indeed, it
will pay to have it plowed rather than dug up by
hand. If necessary, ar-

range the surrounding tie eer
fence as suggested in % ye

the accompanying dia- ees Phas sae eed
gram, to make possible 2 emme ,
the use of a horse for | I

plowing and harrow- | |

ing. (As suggested in i

the chapter on Imple- | }z
ments, page 32), if

‘noheates Sunken
reve bones b beM Poste

68 HoMeE VEGETABLE GARDENING

there is not room for a team, the one-horse plow,
spring-tooth and spike-tooth cultivators, can do the
work in very small spaces.

If however the breaking up of the garden must be
done by hand, have it done deeply—down to the sub-
soil, or as deep as the spading-fork will go. And
have it done thoroughly, every spadeful turned com-
pletely and every inch dug. It is hard work, but it
must not be slighted.

PLOWING

If the garden can be plowed in the fall, by all
means have it done. If it is in sod, it must be done
at that time if good results are to be secured the fol-
lowing season. In this latter case, plow a shallow
furrow four to six inches deep and turning flat, as
early as possible in the fall, turning under a coating
of horse manure, or dressing of lime, and then going
over it with a smoothing-harrow or the short blades
of the Acme, to fill in all crevices. The object of the
plowing is to get the sods rotted thoroughly before
the following spring; then apply manure and plow
deeply, six to twelve inches, according to the soil.

Where the old garden is to be plowed up, if there
has not been time to get in one of the cover crops
suggested on page 51, plow as late as possible, and
in ridges. If the soil is light and sandy, fall plowing
will not be advisable.

THE SOIL 69

In beginning the spring work it is customary to
put on the manure and plow but once. But the labor
of double plowing will be well repaid, especially on a
soil likely to suffer from drouth, if the ground be
plowed once, deeply, before the manure is spread on,
and then cross-plowed just sufficiently to turn the
manure well under—say five or six inches. On stiff
lands, and especially for root crops, it will pay if
possible to have the sub-soil plow follow the regular
plow. This is, of course, for thoroughly rotted and
fined manure; if coarse, it had better be put under
at one plowing, making the best of a handicap. If
you have arranged to have your garden plowed “by
the job,” be on hand to see that no shirking is done,
by taking furrows wider than the plow can turn com-
pletely; it is possible to “cut and cover” so that the
surface of a piece will look well enough, when in
reality it is little better than half plowed.

HARROWING

That is the first step toward the preparation of a
successful garden out of the way. Next comes the
harrowing ; if the soil after plowing is at all stiff and
lumpy, get a disc-harrow if you can; on clayey soils
a “cut-a-way” (see Implements). On the average
garden soil, however, the Acme will do the work of
pulverizing in fine shape.

If, even after harrowing, the soil remains lumpy,

70 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

have the man who is doing your work get a horse-
roller somewhere, and go over the piece with that.
The roller should be used also on very sandy and
light soils, after the first harrowing (or after the
plowing, if the land turns over mellow) to compact
it, as suggested on page 65. To follow the first
harrowing (or the roller) use a smoothing-harrow,
the Acme set shallow, or a “brush.”

FINING.

This treatment will reduce to a minimum the labor
of finally preparing the seed- or plant-bed with the
iron rake (or, on large gardens, with the Meeker
harrow). After the finishing touches, the soil should
be left so even and smooth that you can with diffi-
culty bring yourself to step on it. Get it “like a
table’—and then you are ready to begin gardening.

Whatever implements are used, do not forget the
great importance of making the soil thoroughly fine,
not only at the surface, but as far as possible below.
Even under the necessity of repetition. I want to em-
phasize this again by stating the four chief benefits,
of this thorough pulverization: First, it adds mate-
rially in making the plant foods in the soil available
for use; secondly, it induces the growing plants to
root deeply, and thus to a greater extent to escape
the drying influence of the sun; thirdly, it enables
the soil to absorb rain evenly, where it falls, which

Tf you have not time to make your own coldframe, buy one
ready-made that simply needs vulting together

The sash, ih fie glass whitewashed, may be used for shading
and protecting fine seed sown outdoors

The figures show the sizes of the various parts and their
proper relation for a frame to hold the standard 3 x6 ft. sash

tw Ww
Sanu 98

The compost of leaves and fresh horse manure, before going

into the bed, must be turned over several times at intervals of

a few days, to be got in condition for furnishing an even,
lasting heat

THE SOIL 71

would otherwise either run off and be lost altogether,
or collect in the lower parts of the garden; and last,
and most important, it enables the soil to retain mois-
ture thus stored, as in a subterranean storage tank,
but where the plants can draw upon it, long after
carelessly prepared and shallow soils are burning
up in the long protracted drouths which we seem
to be increasingly certain of getting during the late
summer.

Prepare your garden deeply, thoroughly, care-
fully, in addition to making it rich, and you may
then turn to those more interesting operations out-
lined in the succeeding pages, with the well founded
assurance that your thought and labor will be re-
warded by a garden so remarkably more successful
than the average garden is, that all your extra pains-
taking will be richly repaid,

Part Two—Vegetables

CuHapPTER VIII.
STARTING THE PLANTS

HIS beautifully prepared garden spot—or
rather the plant food in it—is to be trans-
formed into good things for your table,

through the ever wonderful agency of plant growth.
The thread of life inhering in the tiniest seed, in the
smallest plant, is the magic wand that may transmute
the soil’s dull metal into the gold of flower and fruit.

All the thought, care and expense described in the
preceding chapters are but to get ready for the two
things from which your garden is to spring, in ways
so deeply hidden that centuries of the closest obser-
vation have failed to reveal their inner workings.
Those two are seeds and plants. (The sticklers for
technical exactness will here take exception, calling
our attention to tubers, bulbs, corms and numerous
other taverns where plant life puts up over night,
between growth and growth, but for our present
purpose we need not mind them.)

The plants which you put out in your garden will
have been started under glass from seed, so that, in-

(72)

STARTING THE PLANTS 72

directly, everything depends on the seed. Good
seeds, and true, you must have if your garden is to
attain that highest success which should be our aim.
Seeds vary greatly—very much more’so than the
beginner has any conception of. There are three
essentials ; if seeds fail in any one of them, they will
be rendered next to useless. First, they must be true;
selected from good types of stock and true to name;
then they must have been good, strong, plump seeds,
full of life and gathered from healthy plants; and
finally, they must be fresh.* It is therefore of vital
importance that you procure the best seeds that can
be had, regardless of cost. Poor seeds are dear at
any price; you cannot afford to accept them as a
gift. It is, of course, impossible to give a rule by
which to buy good seed, but the following sugges-
tions will put you on the safe track. First, purchase
only of some reliable mail-order house; do not be
tempted, either by convenience or cheapness, to buy
the gaily lithographed packets displayed in grocery
and hardware stores at planting time—as a rule they
are not reliable; and what you want for your good
money is good seed, not cheap ink. Second, buy of
seedsmen who make a point of growing and testing
their own seed. Third, to begin with, buy from
several houses and weed out to the one which proves,
by actual results, to be the most reliable. Another

*See table, page 8s.

74 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

good plan is to purchase seed of any particular va-
riety from the firm that makes a leading specialty of
it; in many cases these specialties have been intro-
duced by these firms and they grow their own sup-
plies of these seeds; they will also be surer of being
true to name and type.

Good plants are, in proportion to the amounts
used, just as important as good seed—and of course
you cannot afford losing weeks of garden useful-
ness by growing entirely from seed sown out-doors.
Beets, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, tomatoes, pep-
pers, egg-plant, and for really efficient gardening,
also onions, corn, melons, celery, lima beans, cucum-
bers, and squash, will all begin their joyous journey
toward the gardener’s table several weeks before
they get into the garden at all. They will all be
started under glass and have attained a good, thrifty,
growing size before they are placed in the soil we
have been so carefully preparing for them. It is next
to impossible to describe a “good’’ vegetable plant,
but he who gardens will come soon to distinguish
between the healthy, short-jointed, deep-colored
plant which is ready to take hold and grow, and the
soft, flabby (or too succulent) drawn-up growth of
plants which have been too much pampered, or
dwarfed, weazened specimens which have been
abused and starved; he will learn that a dozen of
the former will yield more than fifty of the latter.

How one home-owner solved the problem of securing an
effective and unobtrusive place for raising seedlings in the
early spring. Unfortunately, not many houses have a roof of
this form, but perhaps there. is some other place about your
own home in which you can build a garden under glass

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STARTING THE PLANTS 75

Plants may be bought of the florist or market
gardener. If so, they should be personally selected,
some time ahead, and gotten some few days before
needed for setting out, so that you may be sure to
have them properly “hardened off,” and in the right
degree of moisture, for transplanting, as will be
described later.

By far the more satisfactory way, however, is to
grow them yourself. You can then be sure of hav-
ing the best of plants in exactly the quantities and
varieties you want. They will also be on hand when
conditions are just right for setting them out.

For the ordinary garden, all the plants needed
may be started successfully in hotbeds and cold-
frames. The person who has had no experience with
these has usually an exaggerated idea of their cost
and of the skill required to manage them. The skill
is not as much a matter of expert knowledge as of
careful regular care, daily. Only a few minutes a
day, for a few sash, but every day. The cost need
be but little, especially if one is a bit handy with
tools. The sash which serves for the cover, and is
removable, is the important part of the structure.
Sash may be had, ready glazed and painted, at from
$2.50 to $3.50 each, and with care they will last ten
or even twenty years, so you can see at once that
not a very big increase in the yield of your garden
will be required to pay interest on the investment.

76 HomMeE VEGETABLE GARDENING

Or you can buy the sash unglazed, at a proportion-
ately lower price, and put the glass in yourself, if
you prefer to spend a little more time and less money.
However, if you are not familiar with the work, and
want only a few sash, I would advise purchasing the
finished article. In size they are three feet by six.

Frames upon which to put the sash covering may
also be bought complete, but here there is a chance
to save money by constructing your own frames—the
materials required being 2 x 4 in. lumber for posts,
and inch-boards; or better, if you can easily procure
them, plank 2 x 12 in.

So far as these materials go the hotbed and cold-
frame are alike. he difference is that while the
coldframe depends for its warmth upon catching and
holding the heat of the sun’s rays, the hotbed is arti-
ficially heated by fermenting manure, or in rare in-
stances, by hot water or steam pipes.

In constructing the hotbed there are two methods
used; either by placing the frames on top of the ma-
nure heap or by putting the manure within the
frames. The first method has the advantage of per-
mitting the hotbed to be made upon frozen ground,
when required in the spring. The latter, which is
the better, must be built before the ground freezes,
but is more economical of manure. The manure in
either case should be that of grain-fed horses, and if
a small amount of straw bedding, or leaves—not

STARTING THE PLANTS i,

more, however, than one-third of the latter—be
mixed among it, so much the better. Get this ma-
nure several days ahead of the time wanted for use
and prepare by stacking in a compact, tramped-
down heap. Turn it over after three or four days,
and re-stack, being careful to put the former top and
sides of the pile now on the inside.

Having now ready the heating apparatus and the
superstructure of our miniature greenhouse, the
building of it isa very simple matter. If the ground
is frozen, spread the manure in a low, flat heap—
nine or ten feet side, a foot and a half deep, and as
long as the number of sash to be used demands—a
cord of manure thus furnishing a bed for about
three sash, not counting for the ends of the string
or row. This heap should be well trodden down and
upon it should be placed or built the box or frame
upon which the sash are to rest. In using this
method it will be more convenient to have the frame
made up beforehand and ready to place upon the
manure, as shown in one of the illustrations. This
should be at least twelve inches high at the front
and some half a foot higher at the back. Fill in
with at least four inches—better six—of good gar-
den soil containing plenty of humus, that it may
allow water to soak through readily.

The other method is to construct the frames on
the ground before severe freezing, and in this case

78 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

the front should be at least twenty-four inches high,
part of which—not more than half—may be below
the ground level. The 2x 12 in. planks, when used,
are handled as follows: stakes are driven in to
support the back plank some two or three inches
above the ground—which should, of course, be
level. The front plank is sunk two or three inches
into the ground and held upright by stakes on the
outside, nailed on. Remove enough dirt from inside
the frame to bank up the planks about halfway on
the outside. When this banking has frozen to a
depth of two or three inches, cover with rough ma-
nure or litter to keep frost from striking through.
The manure for heating should be prepared as above
and put in to the depth of a foot, trodden down,
first removing four to six inches of soil to be put
back on top of the manure,—a cord of the latter, in
this case, serving seven sashes. The vegetable to be
grown, and the season and climate, will determine
the depth of manure required—it will be from one to
two feet,—the latter depth seldom being necessary.

It must not be overlooked that this manure, when
spent for heating purposes, is still as good as ever to
enrich the garden, so that the expense of putting it
in and removing it from the frames is all that you
can fairly charge up against your experiment with
hotbeds, if you are interested to know whether they
really pay.

STARTING THE PLANTS 79

The exposure for the hotbeds should be where the
sun will strike most directly and where they will be
sheltered from the north. Put up a fence of rough
boards, five or six feet high, or place the frames
south of some building.

The coldframe is constructed practically as in the
hotbed, except that if manure is used at all it is for
the purpose of enriching the soil where lettuce, rad-
ishes, cucumbers or other crops are to be grown to
maturity in it.

If one can put up even a very small frame green-
house, such as illustrated facing page 3, it will be
a splendid investment both for profit and for pleas-
ure. The cost is lower than is generally imagined,
where one is content with a home-made structure.
Look into it.

PREPARING THE SOIL

All this may seem like a lot of trouble to go to for
such a small thing as a packet of seed. In reality it
is not nearly so much trouble as it sounds, and then,
too, this is for the first season only, a well built
frame lasting for years—forever, if you want to
take a little more time and make it of concrete in-
stead of boards.

But now that the frame is made, how to use it is

_ the next question.

The first consideration must be the soil. It should

be rich, light, friable. There are some garden loams

80 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

that will do well just as taken up, but as a rule better
results will be obtained where the soil is made up
specially as follows: rotted sods two parts, old rotted
manure one part, and enough coarse sand added to
make the mixture fine and crumbly, so that, even
when moist, it will fall apart when pressed into a
ball in the hand. Such soil is best prepared by cut-
ting out sod, in the summer, where the grass is green
and thick, indicating a rich soil. Along old fences
or the roadside where the wash has settled will be
good places to get limited quantities. Those should
be cut with considerable soil and stacked, grassy
sides together, in layers in a compost pile. If the
season proves very dry, occasionally soak the heap
through. In late fall put in the cellar, or wherever
solid freezing will not take place, enough to serve
for spring work under glass. The amount can read-
ily be calculated ; soil for three sash, four inches deep,
for instance, would take eighteen feet or a pile
three feet square and two feet high. The fine ma-
nure (and sand, if necessary) may be added in the
fall or when using in the spring. Here again it may
seem to the amateur that unnecessary pains are
being taken. I can but repeat what has been sug-
gested all through these pages, that it will require
but little more work to do the thing the best way
as long as one is doing it at all, and the results will
be not only better, but practically certain—and that

STARTING THE PLANTS 81

is a tremendously important point about all garden-
ing operations.

SOWING THE SEED

Having now our frames provided and our soil
composed properly and good strong tested seed on
hand, we are prepared to go about the business of
growing our plants with a practical certainty of
success—a much more comfortable feeling than if,
because something or other had been but half done,
we must anxiously await results and the chances of
having the work we had put into the thing go, after
all, for nothing.

The seed may be sown either directly in the soil
or in “flats.” Flats are made as follows: Get from
your grocer a number of cracker boxes, with the
tops. Saw the boxes lengthwise into sections, a few
two inches deep and the rest three. One box will
make four or five such sections, for two of which
bottoms will be furnished by the bottom and top of
the original box. Another box of the same size,
knocked apart, will furnish six bottoms more to use
for the sections cut from the middle of the box. The
bottoms of all, if tight, should have, say, five three-
quarter-inch holes bored in them to allow any sur-
plus water to drain off from the soil. The shallow
flats may be used for starting the seed and the three-
inch ones for transplanting. Where sowing but a

6

82 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

small quantity of each variety of seed, the flats will
be found much more convenient than sowing directly
in the soil—and in the case of their use, of course,
the soil on top of the manure need be but two or
three inches deep and not especially prepared.

Where the seed is to go directly into the frames,
the soil described above is, of course, used. But
when in flats, to be again transplanted, the soil for
the first sowing will be better for having no manure
in it, the idea being to get the hardest, stockiest
growth possible. Soil for the flats in which the
seeds are to be planted should be, if possible, one
part sod, one part chip dirt or leaf mould, and one
part sand.

The usual way of handling the seed flats is to fill
each about one-third full of rough material—screen-
ings, small cinders or something similar—and then
fill the box with the prepared earth, which should
first be finely sifted. This, after the seeds are sown,
should be copiously watered—with a fine rose spray,
or if one has not such, through a folded bag, as illus-
trated facing page 55, to prevent the washing of the
soil.

Here is another way which I have used recently
and, so far, with one hundred per cent. certainty of
results. Last fall, when every bit of soil about my
place was ash dry, and I had occasion to start im-
mediately some seeds that were late in reaching me,

A coldframe need by no means be an unsightly garden
accessory. ‘his frame is tucked away in a southeastern
angle of the house

Bir

A flat of cabbage just breaking ground. If the soil is crusted
and makes “tents,” break it through by watering

Cabbage almost ready for transplanting. The first leaves are
just showing

STARTING THE PLANTS 83

my necessity mothered the following invention, an
adaptation of the principle of sub-irrigation. To
have filled the flats in the ordinary way would not
have done, as it would have been impossible ever to
wet the soil through without making a solid mud
cake of it, in which seeds would have stood about as
good a chance of doing anything as. though not wa-
tered at all. I filled the flats one-third full of
sphagnum moss, which was soaked, then to within
half an inch of the top with soil, which was likewise
soaked, and did not look particularly inviting. The
flats were then filled level-full of the dust-dry soil,
planted, and put in partial shade. Within half a day
the surface soil had come to just the right degree
of moisture, soaked up from below, and there was
in a few days more a perfect stand of seedlings. I
have used this method in starting all my seedlings
this spring—some forty thousand, so far—only
using soil screenings, mostly small pieces of decayed
sod, in place of the moss and giving a very light
watering in the surface to make it compact and to
swell the seed at once. Two such flats are shown
facing p. 86, just ready to transplant. The seed-
lings illustrated in the upper flat had received just
two waterings since being planted.

Where several hundred or more plants of each
variety are wanted, sow the seed broadcast as evenly
as possible and fairly thick—one ounce of cabbage,

&4 Home V&GETABLE GARDENING

for instance, to three to five 13 x 19 inch flats. If
but a few dozen, or a hundred, are wanted, sow in
rows two or three inches apart, being careful to
label each correctly. Before sowing, the soil should
be pressed firmly into the corners of the flats and
leveled off perfectly smooth with a piece of board or
shingle. Press the seed evenly into the soil with a
flat piece of board, cover it lightly, one-eighth to
one-quarter inch, with sifted soil, press down barely
enough to make smooth, and water with a very fine
spray, or through burlap.

For the next two days the flats can go on a pretty
hot surface, if one is available, such as hot water or
steam pipes, or top of a boiler, but if these are not
convenient, directly into the frame, where the tem-
perature should be kept as near as possible to that
indicated in the table on the next page.

In from two to twelve days, according to tempera-
ture and variety, the little seedlings will begin to
appear. In case the soil has not been made quite
friable enough, they will sometimes ‘‘raise the roof”
instead of breaking through. If so, see that the
surface is broken up at once, with the fingers and a
careful watering, as otherwise many of the little
plants may become bent and lanky in a very short
time.

From now on until they are ready to transplant, a
period of some three or four weeks, is the time when

STARTING THE PLANTS 85

they will most readily be injured by neglect. There
are things you will have to look out for, and your

VEGETABLE Date To Sow eas pci isla abet
(aBouT)
Beets ...... Feb. 15—Apr. 1 5 years
Broccali ....| Feb. 15-Apr. 1 gy te
Brussels
Sorouts Feb. 15-Apr. 1 hae 55 degrees
Cabbage ....| Feb. 1-Apr. 1 1 Res
Cauliflower ..| Feb. 1-Apr. 1 ’ ee
Celery ...... Feb. 15-Apr. 1 Sess 50 4
Corn si2eees Apr. 1-May 1 a ss 65 ss
Cucumber. ..| Mar. 15-May 1] 10 ‘“ 15 oc
Egg-plant...) Mar. 1-Apr. 15 iris 88 75 bbe
Kohlrabi....| Mar. 1-Apr. 1 De 55 ig
Lettuce .....| Feb. 15-Apr. 1 Gi. 7st 55 ad
Melon, musk.) Apr. 1-May 1 aS age 75 es
Melon, water | Apr. 1-May 1 ge 8 5 es
Okranais.<s aie < Mar. 15-Apr.15} 3 “ 65 ce
Onion ...... Jan.15-Mar.15| 2 “ 50 as
Pepper...... Mar. 1-Apr. 15 a 715 ct
Squash...... Mar.15-Apr.15| 7 ‘ 75
Tomato .....| Mar. 1-Apr.15.| 5 ‘“* 15 s

attention must be regular to the matters of tempera-
ture, ventilation and moisture.

The temperatures required by the different varie-
ties will be indicated by the table above. It should be
kept as nearly as possible within ten degrees lower
and fifteen higher (in the sun) than given. If the
nights are still cold, so that the mercury goes near

&6 HomME VEGETABLE GARDENING

zero, it will be necessary to provide mats or shutters
(see illustrations) to cover the glass at night. Or,
better still, for the few earliest frames, have double-
glass sash, the dead-air space making further pro-
tection unnecessary.

VENTILATION: On all days when the tempera-
ture within the frame runs up to sixty to eighty de-
grees, according to variety, give air, either by tilting
the sash up at the end or side, and holding in posi-
tion with a notched stick; or, if the outside
temperature permits, strip the glass off altogether, as
shown facing p. 75.

WaTERING: Keep a close watch upon the condi-
tions of the soil, especially if you are using flats
instead of planting directly in the soil. Wait until
it is fairly dry—never until the plants begin to wilt,
however—and then give a thorough soaking, all the
soil will absorb. If at all possible do this only in the
morning (up to eleven o’clock) on a bright sunny
day. Plants in the seedling state are subject to
“damping off”—a sudden disease of the stem tissue
just at or below the soil, which either kills the seed-
lings outright, or renders them worthless. Some
authorities claim that the degree of moisture or
dampness has nothing to do with this trouble. J am
not prepared to contradict them, but as far as my
own experience goes I am satisfied that the drier the
stems and leaves can be kept, so long as the soil is

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STARTING THE PLANTS 87

in good condition, the better. I consider this one
of the advantages of the “sub-irrigation” method of
preparing the seed flats, described above.

TRANSPLANTING: Under this care the little seed-
lings will come along rapidly, as shown in the two
stages illustrated facing p. 83. When the second
true leaf is forming they will be ready for trans-
planting or “pricking off,” as it is termed in garden
parlance. If the plants are at all crowded in the
boxes, this should be done just as soon as they are
ready, as otherwise they will be injured by crowding
and more likely to damp off.

Boxes similar to the seed-flats, but an inch deeper,
are provided for transplanting. Fill these with soil
as described for frames—sifted through a coarse
screen (chicken-wire size) and mixed with one-third
rotted manure. Or place an inch of manure, which
must be so thoroughly rotted that most of the heat
has left, in the bottom, and fill in with soil.

Find or construct a table or bench of convenient
height, upon which to work. With a flat piece of
stick or one of the types of transplanting forks lift
from the seedling box a clump of seedlings, dirt and
all, clear to the bottom. Hold this clump in one
hand and with the other gently tear away the seed-
lings, one at a time, discarding all crooked or weak
ones. Never attempt to pull the seedlings from the
soil in the flats, as the little rootlets are very easily

88 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

broken off. They should come away almost intact,
as shown facing p. 86. Water your seed-flats the
day previous to transplanting, so that the soil will be
in just the right condition, neither wet enough to
make the roots sticky nor dry enough to crumble
away.

Take the little seedling by the stem between
thumb and forefinger, and with a small round
pointed stick or dibber, or with the forefinger of the
other hand, make a hole to receive the roots and
about half the length—more if the seedlings are
lanky—of the stem. As the seedling drops into
place, the tips of both thumbs and forefingers, by one
quick, firm movement, compress the earth firmly
both down on the roots and against the stem, so
that the plant sticks up firmly and may not be readily
pulled out. Of course there is a knack about it
which cannot be put into words—I could have
pricked off a hundred seedlings in the time I am
spending in trying to describe the operation, but a
little practice will make one reasonably efficient at it.

In my own work this spring, I have applied the
“sub-irrigation” idea to this operation also. The
manure placed in the bottom of the boxes is thor-
oughly watered and an inch of soil put in and wa-
tered also, and the box then filled and the plants
pricked in. By preparing a number of flats at one
time, but little additional work is required, and the

STARTING THE PLANTS 89

results have convinced me that the extra trouble
is well worth while. Of the early cabbage and cauli-
flower, not two plants in a thousand have dropped
out.

Ordinarily about one hundred plants are put in a
13 x Ig inch flat, but if one has room and is growing
only a few plants for home use, somewhat better
plants may be had if fifty or seventy-five are put in.
In either case keep the outside rows close to the
edges of the flats, as they will have plenty of room
anyway. When the flat is completed, jar the box
slightly to level the surface, and give a thorough
watering at once, being careful, however, to bend
down the plants as little as possible. Set the flats
close together on a level surface, and, if the weather
is bright, shade from the sun during the middle of
the day for two or three days.

From now on keep at the required temperature
and water thoroughly on bright mornings as often
as the soil in the flats gets on the dry side, as garden-
ers say—indicated by the whitening and crusting of
the surface. Above all, give all the air possible while
maintaining the necessary temperature. The quality
of the plants will depend more upon this than any-
thing else in the way of care. Whenever the temper-
ature allows, strip off the sash and let the plants
have the benefit of the rains. A good rain seems to
do them more good than any watering.

go HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

Should your plants of cabbage, lettuce, beets or
cauliflower by any chance get frozen, do not give
them up for lost, for the chances are that the follow-
ing simple treatment will pull them through: In
the first place, shade them thoroughly from the sun;
in the second, drench them with cold water, the
coldest you can get—if you have to break the ice
for it, so much the better. Try, however, to prevent
its happening again, as they will be less able to resist
subsequent injury.

In hot weather, where watering and ventilation
are neglected, the plants will sometimes become in-
fested with the green aphis, which under such con-
ditions multiplies with almost incredible rapidity.
For treatment in this case see page 161.

HARDENING OFF: For five days or a week before
setting plants in the field they should be thoroughly
hardened off. If they have been given plenty of air
this treatment will mean little change for them—
simply exposing them more each day, until for a
few nights they are left entirely without protection.
They will then be ready for setting out in the open,
an operation which is described in the next chapter.

STARTING PLANTS OUTSIDE

Much of the above is applicable also to the starting
of plants out-of-doors, for second and for succes-
sion crops, such as celery and late cabbage. Select

STARTING THE PLANTS QI

for the outside seed-bed the most thoroughly’ pulver-
ized spot to be found, enriched and lightened with
fine manure. Mark off rows a foot apart, and to the
necessary depth; sow the seed evenly; firm in if the
soil is dry (facing p. 93), cover lightly with the
back of the rake and roll or smooth with the back
of the spade, or of a hoe, along the drills. The seed,
according to variety, will begin to push through
in from four to twenty days. At all times keep the
seed-bed clear of weeds; and keep the soil between
the rows constantly cultivated. Not unless it is very
dry will watering be necessary, but if it is required,
give a thorough soaking toward evening.

As the cabbage, celery and similar plants come
along it will add to their sturdiness and stockiness
to shear off the tops—about half of the large leaves
—once or twice after the plants have attained a
height of about six inches.

If the precautions concerning seed and soil which
I have given are heeded and the details of the work
of planting, transplanting and care are carried out,
planting time (April) will find the prospective gar-
dener with a supply of good, stocky, healthy plants
on hand, and impatient to get them into that care-
fully prepared garden spot. All of this work has
been—or should have been—interesting, but that
which follows in the next chapter is more so.

Carter IX
SOWING AND PLANTING

HE importance of having good seeds has al-
ready been declared. They must not only
grow, but grow into what we have bought

them for—be true to name. Without the latter
quality we cannot be sure of good gardens, and with-
out the former they will not be full ones. A meagre
“stand” from seeds properly sown is a rather exas-
perating and discouraging experience to encounter.
The cost for fertilizing and preparing the land is just
as much, and the cost of cultivating very nearly as
much, when the rows are full of thrifty plants or
strung out with poor ones. Whether you use ten
cents’ worth or ten dollars’ worth, the best seed to be
had will be the most economical to buy—to say noth-
ing of the satisfaction that full rows give.

And yet good seedsmen are more thoughtlessly
and unjustly abused in the matter of seed vitality
than in any other. Inexperienced gardeners seem
universally to have the conviction that the only thing
required in seed sowing is to cover the seed with

(92)

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:SUIPIOM PuL Suruuly] Juatuaauod arour FO JSPIURAPE dy} SULATS ‘oWUeS IOJ [Ip UIA} (Z)
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SSS Ss

Dee emieh sag eon

If the soil is at all dry firm the seed into the
rows with the ball of the foot before covering

a te

SOWING AND PLANTING 93

soil. What sort of soil it is, or in what condition,
or at what depth or temperature the seed is planted,
are questions about which they do not trouble them-
selves to think.

Two conditions—moisture and warmth—are nec-
essary to induce germination of seeds, no matter how
full of life they may be; and as was shown in the
preceding chapter the different varieties have some
choice as to the degree of each, especially of temper-
ature. This means of course that some commonsense
must be used in planting, and when planting out-
doors, where we cannot regulate the temperature
to our need, we simply must regulate our seed sow-
ing to its dictates, no matter how impatient we may
be.

To insure the best possible germination, and thus
the best gardening, we must, first of all then, settle
the question of temperature when sowing out-of-
doors. For practical work it serves to divide the
garden vegetables into two groups, though in plant-
ing, the table on page 25, and special suggestions
in the following chapter, should be consulted.

WHEN TO SOW OUTDOORS

Sow from the end of March to the beginning of
May, or when plum and peach trees bloom, the fol-
lowing :

Beet Cabbage Carrot Cauliflower

94 HomE VEGETABLE GARDENING

Celery Endive Kale Kohlrabi
Lettuce Onions Parsley Parsnip
Peas Radish Spinach Turnip

Water-cress

Sow from the beginning of May to the middle of
June, or when apple trees bloom, the following:

Beans Corn Cucumber Melon, musk
Melon, water Okra Pumpkin Squash
Tomato

Getting the seed to sprout, however, is only the
first step in the game; they must be provided with
the means of immediately beginning to grow. This
means that they should not be left to germinate in
loosely packed soil, full of air spaces, ready to dry
out at the first opportunity, and to let the tiny seed
roots be shriveled up and die. The soil should touch
the seed—be pressed close about it on all sides, so
that the first tiny tap root will issue immediately
into congenial surroundings where it can instantly
take hold. Such conditions can be found only ina
seed-bed fine but light enough to pack, reasonably
rich and sufficiently moist, and where, in addition
to this, the seed has been properly planted.

METHODS OF PLANTING

The seed-bed, as it is called, is the surface pre-
pared to receive the seed, whether for a patch of

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fives

,

result in heavier vines and tomatoes free
from rot or blemish

Tomato “tables’

Your garden will be several days earlier for a shelter on
the northern exposure

SOWING AND PLANTING 95

radishes or an acre of onions. For crops to be sown
directly where they are to go, the chapter on Prep-
aration of the Soil takes us to this point, and as
stated at the conclusion of that chapter, the final
preparation of the bed should be made only imme-
diately prior to its use.

Having, then, good seeds on hand and the soil
properly prepared to receive them, the only problem
remaining is what way they shall be put in. The
different habits of growth characteristic of different
plants make it patent at the outset that there must be
different methods of planting, for very evidently a
cabbage, which occupies but three or four square feet
of space and stays in one place to make a head, will
not require the same treatment as a winter squash,
roaming all over the garden and then escaping under
the fence to hide some of its best fruit in the tall
grass outside.

The three systems of planting usually employed
are known as “drills,” “rows” and “hills.” I do not
remember ever seeing a definition giving the exact
distinctions between them; and in horticultural writ-
ing they seem to be used, to some extent at least, in-
terchangeably. Asa rule “drills” refer to the grow-
ing of plants continuously in rows, such as onions,
carrots or spinach. “Rows” refer to the growing
of plants at fixed distances apart in the rows such
as cabbage, or potatoes—the cultivation, except hand

96 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

weeding and hoeing, being all done in one direction,
as with drills. ‘Hills’ refer to the growing of plants
usually at equal distances, four feet or more apart
each way, with cultivating done in both directions,
as with melons and squashes. I describe the differ-
ent methods at length so that the reader may know
more definitely just what is meant by the special
instructions given in the following pages.

SOWING THE SEED

If one observes the suggestions as to temperature
just given, and the following precautions in placing
the seed within the soil, failure of good seed to
germinate is practically impossible. In the first
place, plant on a freshly prepared surface, always
just before a rain if possible, except in the case of
very small seeds, when just after a rain will be
better. If the soil is at all dry, or likely to be fol-
lowed by a spell of hot, dry weather, always firm
by using the back of the hoe for small seed, or the
ball of the foot for larger ones, such as peas, beans
or corn, to press the seed firmly and evenly into the
soil before covering (see illustration facing p. 93).
Then when the soil is covered in over the seed, firm
along the top of the row very lightly, just enough
to mark it and hold the soil in place.

The depth of the drill furrow in which the seed
is to be sown will depend (1) on the variety of vege-

Here they are at last, after all these chapters of
planning, preparing and planting

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2.

SOWING AND PLANTING 97

table, (2) on the season of planting, and (3) on
weather conditions. Remember that the seed must
be supplied with moisture both to germinate and to
continue to exist after germination; and also that
it must have soil through which the air can to some
extent penetrate. Keeping these things in mind,
common sense dictates that seed planted in the
spring, or during a wet spell of weather, will not
need to be put in as deeply as should the same seed in
summer or early autumn, or during a hot, dry spell.

The old general rule is, to cover seed planted un-
der glass, where the moisture can be controlled, to a
depth of two or three times its diameter ; and out-of-
doors, to four or five times. I should say these
depths were the minimums desirable. In _ other
words, the smallest seed, such as onion, carrot, let-
tuce, will go in one-quarter to one-half inch deep.
Beets, spinach, parsnips and other medium-sized
seed one-half to one inch deep, and peas, beans, corn,
etc., two to four inches deep—usually near the first
figure.

After the seed is sown it is of course desirable
to keep the ground from baking or crusting on top,
as it is likely to do after a morning rain followed di-
rectly by hot sun. If the seed sprouts have not yet
reached the surface of the soil, rake very lightly
across the rows with an iron rake; if they have
broken through, work as close as possible to the

7

98 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

row. The best implement I have ever seen for this
purpose is the disc attachment of the double wheel
hoe—see Implements, page 35. An _ ordinarily
good garden loam, into which the desirable quantity
of short manure has been worked, will give little
trouble by raking. In a clay soil, it often will pay,
on a small scale, to sift leaf mould, sphagnum moss,
or some other light porous covering, over the rows,
especially for small seed. The special seed-bed, for
starting late cabbage or celery, may easily be shel-
tered, as shown facing p. 70. In very hot, dry
weather this method will be a great help.

SETTING OUT PLANTS

The reader has not forgotten, of course, that
plants as well as seeds must go into the well man-
aged garden. We have already mentioned the
hardening-off process to which they must be sub-
jected before going into the open ground. The flats
should also be given a copious watering several
hours, or the day before, setting out. All being
ready, with your rows made straight and marked
off at the correct distances, lift out the plants with a
trowel or transplanting fork, and tear or cut them
apart with a knife, keeping as much soil as possible
with each ball of roots. Distribute them at their
positions, but not so many at a time that any will dry
out before you get them in place. Get down on your

Inviting blight and 1ruit-rot. For sure results and the best
specimens of fruit, always tie tomatoes up

° ti ip Ag”

The leaf crops are greatly benefited by early applications of
nitrate of soda. Cabbage should grow like this

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‘sajddv sv pjiu se aie siaddad asie, usapoyy ‘usejod pue yeay savy ysntu sdoly yay ayy

MZ |

SOWING AND PLANTING 99

hands and knees, and, straddling the row, proceed
to “set.” With the left hand, or a trowel or dibber
if the ground is not soft, make a hole large enough
to take the roots and the better part of the stem,
place the plant in position and firm into place by
bearing down with the backs of the knuckles, on
either side. Proceed so to the end of the row, being
careful to keep your toes from undoing your good
work behind you, and then finish the job by walking
back over the row, still further firming in each plant
by pressing down the soil at either side of the stem
simultaneously with the balls of the feet. When all
the rows are completed, go over the surface with the
iron rake, and you will have a job thoroughly done
and neatly finished.

If the weather and soil are exceptionally dry it
may be necessary to take the additional precautions,
when planting, of putting a pint or so of water in
each hole (never on the surface) previous to plant-
ing; or of puddling the roots in a thick mixture of
rich soil and water. The large leaves also should be
trimmed back one-half. In the case of plants that
are too tall or succulent, this should be done in any
case—better a day or two previous to setting out.

AFTER-CARE

Transplanting should be done whenever possible
in dull weather or before rain—or even during it if

100 HoMeE VEGETABLE GARDENING

you really would deserve the name of gardener! If
it must be done when the sun continues strong, shade
the plants from, say, ten to three o’clock, for a day or
two, with half sheets of old newspapers held in tent-
shaped position over the plants by stones or earth.
If it is neecssary to give water, do it toward evening.
If the plants have been properly set, however, only
extreme circumstances will render this necessary.

Keep a sharp lookout for cut-worms, maggots or
other enemies described in Chapter XIII.

And above all, CULTIVATE.

Never let the soil become crusted, even if there is
not a weed in sight. Keep the soil loosened up,
for that will keep things growing.

CHAPTER X

THE CULTIVATION OF VEGETABLES

EFORE taking up the garden vegetables in-
dividually, I shall outline the general prac-
tice of cultivation, which applies to all.

The purposes of cultivation are three—to get rid
of weeds, and to stimulate growth by (1) letting air
into the soil and freeing unavailable plant food, and
(2) by conserving moisture.

As to weeds, the gardener of any experience need
not be told the importance of keeping his crops clean.
He has learned from bitter and costly experience
the price of letting them get anything resembling a
start. He knows that one or two days’ growth, after
they are well up, followed perhaps by a day or so
of rain, may easily double or treble the work of
cleaning a patch of onions or carrots, and that where
weeds have attained any size they cannot be taken
out of sowed crops without doing a great deal of
injury. He also realizes, or should, that every day’s
growth means just so much available plant food
stolen from under the very roots of his legitimate

crops.
(101)

102 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

Instead of letting the weeds get away with any
plant food, he should be furnishing more, for clean
and frequent cultivation will not only break the soil
up mechanically, but let in air, moisture and heat
—all essential in effecting those chemical changes
necessary to convert non-available into available
plant food. Long before the science in the case was
discovered, the soil cultivators had learned by obser-
vation the necessity of keeping the soil nicely
loosened about their growing crops. Even the
lanky and untutored aborigine saw to it that his
squaw not only put a bad fish under the hill of
maize but plied her shell hoe over it. Plants need
to breathe. Their roots need air. You might as
well expect to find the rosy glow of happiness on
the wan cheeks of a cotton-mill child slave as to
expect to see the luxuriant dark green of healthy
plant life in a suffocated garden.

Important as the question of air is, that of water
ranks beside it. You may not see at first what the
matter of frequent cultivation has to do with water.
But let us stop a moment and look into it. Take a
strip of blotting paper, dip one end in water, and
watch the moisture run up hill, soak up through
the blotter. The scientists have labeled that “‘capil-
lary attraction”—the water crawls up little invisible
tubes formed by the texture of the blotter. Now
take a similar piece, cut it across, hold the two cut

VEGETABLE CULTIVATION 103

edges firmly together, and try it again. The mois-
ture refuses to cross the line: the connection has
been severed.

In the same way the water stored in the soil after
a rain begins at once to escape again into the atmos-
phere. That on the surface evaporates first, and
that which has soaked in begins to soak in through
the soil to the surface. It is leaving your garden,
through the millions of soil tubes, just as surely
as if you had a two-inch pipe and a gasoline engine,
pumping it into the gutter night and day! Save
your garden by stopping the waste. It is the easiest
thing in the world to do—cut the pipe in two. And
the knife to do it with is—dust. By frequent culti-
vation of the surface soil—not more than one or
two inches deep for most small vegetables—the soil
tubes are kept broken, and a mulch of dust is main-
tained. Try to get over every part of your garden,
especially where it is not shaded, once in every ten
days or two weeks. Does that seem like too much
work? You can push your wheel hoe through, and
thus keep the dust mulch as a constant protection,
as fast as you can walk. If you wait for the weeds,
you will nearly have to crawl through, doing more
or less harm by disturbing your growing plants,
losing all the plant food (and they will take the
cream) which they have consumed, and actually
putting in more hours of infinitely more disagree-

104 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

able work. “A stitch in time saves nine!” Have
your thread and needle ready beforehand! If I
knew how to give greater emphasis to this subject
of thorough cultivation, I should be tempted to de-
vote the rest of this chapter to it. If the beginner
at gardening has not been convinced by the facts
given, there is only one thing left to convince him—
experience.

Having given so much space to the reason for
constant care in this matter, the question of methods
naturally follows. I want to repeat here, my
previous advice—by all means get a wheel hoe. The
simplest sorts cost only a few dollars, and will not
only save you an infinite amount of time and work,
but do the work better, very much better than it
can be done by hand. You can grow good vegeta-
bles, especially if your garden is a very small one,
without one of these labor-savers, but I can assure
you that you will never regret the small investment
necessary to procure it.

With a wheel hoe, the work of preserving the soil
mulch becomes very simple. If one has not a wheel
hoe, for small areas very rapid work can be done
with the scuffle hoe (facing p. 28).

The matter of keeping weeds cleaned out of the
rows and between the plants in the rows is not so
quickly accomplished. Where hand-work is neces-
sary, let it be done at once. Here area few practical

VEGETABLE CULTIVATION 105

suggestions that will reduce this work to a mini-
mum. (1) Get at this work while the ground is
soft; as soon as the soil begins to dry out after a
rain is the best time. Under such conditions the
weeds will pull out by the roots, without breaking
off. (2) Immediately before weeding, go over the
rows with a wheel hoe, cutting shallow, but just as
close as possible, leaving a narrow, plainly visible
strip which must be hand-weeded. The best tool
for this purpose is the double wheel hoe with disc
attachment, or hoes for large plants. (3) See to it
that not only the weeds are pulled but that every
inch of soil surface is broken up. It is fully as
important that the weeds just sprouting be de-
stroyed, as that the larger ones be pulled up. One
stroke of the weeder or the fingers will destroy a
hundred weed seedlings in less time than one weed
can be pulled out after it gets a good start. (4)
Use one of the small hand-weeders until you become
skilled with it. Not only may more work be done
but the fingers will be saved unnecessary wear.

The skilful use of the wheel hoe can be acquired
through practice only. The first thing to learn is
that it is necessary to watch the wheels only: the
blades, disc or rakes will take care of themselves.
Other suggestions will be found in the chapter on
Implements.

The operation of “hilling” consists in drawing up

106 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

the soil about the stems of growing plants, usually
at the time of second or third hoeing. It used to
be the practice to hill everything that could be hilled
“up to the eyebrows,” but it has gradually been
discarded for what is termed “level culture’; and
the reader will readily see the reason, from what
has been said about the escape of moisture from
the surface of the soil’s; for of course the two upper
sides of the hill, which may be represented by an
equilateral triangle with one side horizontal, give
more exposed surface than the level surface repre-
sented by the base. In wet soils or seasons hilling
may be advisable, but very seldom otherwise. It
has the additional disadvantage of making it diffi-
cult to maintain the soil mulch which is so desirable.

ROTATION OF CROPS

There is another thing to be considered in making
each vegetable do its best, and that is crop rotation,
or the following of any vegetable with a different
sort at the next planting.

With some vegetables, such as cabbage, this is
almost imperative, and practically all are helped by
it. Even onions, which are popularly supposed to
be the proving exception to the rule, are healthier,
and do as well after some other crop, provided the
soil is as finely pulverized and rich as a previous
crop of onions would leave it.

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Blanching celery in drain tile. Put the tile on a
few weeks before the celery is wanted

VEGETABLE CULTIVATION 107

Here are the fundamental rules of crop rotation:

(1) Crops of the same vegetable, or vegetables of
the same family (such as turnips and cabbage)
should not follow each other.

(2) Vegetables that feed near the surface, like
corn, should follow deep-rooting crops.

(3) Vines or leaf crops should follow root crops.

(4) Quick-growing crops should follow those oc-
cupying the land all season.

These are the principles which should determine
the rotations to be followed in individual cases. The
proper way to attend to this matter is when making
the planting plan (see page 18). You will then
have time to do it properly, and will need to give it
no further thought for a year.

With the above suggestions in mind, and put to
use, it will not be difficult to give the crops men-
tioned in the following chapter those special atten-
tions which are needed to make them do their very
best.

CHAPTER XI
THE VEGETABLES AND THEIR SPECIAL NEEDS

HE garden vegetables may be considered in
three groups, in each of which the various
varieties are given somewhat similar treat-

ment: the root crops, such as beets and carrots; the
leaf crops, such as cabbage and lettuce; the fruit
crops, such as melons and tomatoes.

ROOT CROPS

“Under the first section we will consider:

Beet Carrot Kohlrabi
Leek Onion Parsnip
Potato — Salsify Turnip

Any of these may be sown in April, in drills (with
the exception of potatoes) twelve to eighteen inches
apart. The soil must be rich and finely worked, in
order that the roots will be even and smooth—in
poor or ill-prepared soil they are likely to be mis-
shapen, or “sprangling.” They must be thinned out
to the proper distances, which should be done if pos-
sible on a cloudy day, hand-weeded as often as may

(108)

SPECIAL NEEDS 109

be required, and given clean and frequent cultivation.
All, with the exception of leeks and potatoes, are
given level culture. All will be greatly benefited,
when about one-third grown, by a top dressing of
nitrate of soda.

Beet:—Beets do best in a rather light soil. Those
for earliest use are started under glass (as described
previously) and set out six to seven inches apart in
rows a foot apart.

The first outdoor sowing is made as soon as the
soil is ready in spring, and the seed should be put
in thick, as not all will come through if bad weather
is encountered. When thinning out, the small plants
that are removed, tops and roots cooked together,
make delicious greens.

The late crop, for fall and winter use, sow the
last part of June. For this crop the larger varieties
are used, and on rich soil will need six to eight
inches in the row and fifteen inches between rows.

Carrot:—Carrots also like a soil that is rather on
the sandy side, and on account of the depth to which
the roots go, it should be deep and fine. The quality
will be better if the soil is not too rich. A few for
extra early use may be grown in the hotbeds or
frame. If radishes and carrots are sown together,
in alternating rows six inches apart, the former will
be used by the time the carrots need the room, and
in this way a single 3 x 6 ft. sash will yield a good

Iio HOME VEGETABLE GARDENING

supply for the home garden. Use Chantenay or Ox-
Heart (see Chapter XII) for this purpose.

The late crop is sometimes sown between rows of
onions, skipping every third row, during June, and
left to mature when the onions are harvested; but
unless the ground is exceptionally free from weeds,
the plan is not likely to prove successful.

Kohlrabi:—While not truly a “root crop”—the
edible portion being a peculiar globular enlargement
of the stem—its culture is similar, as it may be sown
in drills and thinned out. Frequently, however, it
is started in the seed-bed and transplanted, the main
crop (for market) being sown in May or June. A
few of these from time to time will prove very
acceptable for the home table. They should be used
when quite young; as small as two inches being the
tenderest.

Leek:—To attain its best the leek should be
started in the seed-bed, late in April, and trans-
planted in late June, to the richest, heaviest soil
available. Hill up from time to time to blanch lower
part of stalk; or a few choice specimens may be had
by fitting cardboard collars around the stem and
drawing the earth up to these, not touching the stalk
with earth.

Onions:—Onions for use in the green state are
grown from white “sets,” put out early in April,
three to four inches apart in rows twelve inches

Try to get over every part of your garden, especially where
it is not shaded, once in every ten days to break up the surface
crust; the plants will show the result

ic a, . «te, Fle x 2
With beans the ground may be worked over more deeply than
with some of the other vegetables. Hoe the earth up about
them a little cach time. Do not touch when foliage is wet

SPECIAL NEEDS III

apart; or from seed sown the previous fall and pro-
tected with rough manure during the winter. These
will be succeeded by the crop from “prickers’” or
seedlings started under glass in January or Feb-
ruary. As onions are not transplanted before going
to the garden, sow directly in the soil rather than
in flats. It is safest to cover the bed with one-half
inch to one inch of coarse sand, and sow the seed
inthis. To get stocky plants trim back twice, taking
off the upper half of leaves each time, and trim back
the roots one-half to two-thirds at the time of setting
out, which may be any time after the middle of
April. These in turn will be succeeded by onions
coming from the crop sown from seed in the open.

The above is for onions eaten raw in the green
state when less than half grown. For the main crop
for bulbs, the home supply is best grown from prick-
ers as described above. Prize-taker and Gibraltar
are mostly used for this purpose, growing to the size
of the large Spanish onions sold at grocery stores.
For onions to be kept for late winter and spring use,
grow from seed, sowing outdoors as early as
possible.

No vegetable needs a richer or more perfectly pre-
pared soil than the onion; and especial care must be
taken never to let the weeds get a start. They are
gathered after the tops dry down and wither, when
they should be pulled, put in broad rows for several

112 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

days in the sun, and then spread out flat, not more
than four inches deep, under cover with plenty of
light and air. Before severe freezing store in slatted
barrels, as described in Chapter XIV.

Parsnip:—Sow as early as possible, in deep rich
soil, but where no water will stand during fall and
winter. The seed germinates very slowly, so the
seed-bed should be very finely prepared. They will
be ready for use in the fall, but are much better
after the first frosts. For method of keeping see
Chapter XIV.

Potato:—If your garden is a small one, buy your
main supply of potatoes from some nearby farmer,
first trying half a bushel or so to be sure of the
quality. Purchase in late September or October
when the crop is being dug and the price is low.

For an extra early and choice supply for the home
garden, start a peck or so in early March, as follows:
Select an early variety, seed of good size and clean;
cut to pieces containing one or two eyes, and pack
closely together on end in flats of coarse sand. Give
these full light and heat, and by the middle to end
of April they will have formed dense masses of
roois, and nice, strong, stocky sprouts, well leaved
out, Dig out furrows two and a half feet apart, and
incorporate well rotted manure in the bottom, with
the soil covering this until the furrow is left two to
three inches deep. Set the sprouted tubers, pressing

SPECIAL NEEDS 113

firmly into the soil, about twelve inches apart, and
cover in, leaving them thus three to four inches
below the surface. Keep well cultivated, give a light
top dressing of nitrate of soda—and surprise all
your neighbors! This system has not yet come ex-
tensively into use, but is practically certain of
producing excellent results.

For the main crop, if you have room, cut good
seed to one or two eyes, leaving as much of the tuber
as possible to each piece, and plant thirteen inches
apart in rows three feet apart. Cultivate deeply
until the plants are eight to ten inches high and then
shallow but frequently. As the vines begin to
spread, hill up moderately, making a broad, low
ridge. Handle potato-bugs and blight as directed in
Chapter XIII (page 166). For harvesting see
Chapter XIV.

While big crops may be grown on heavy soils,
the quality will be very much better on sandy, well
drained soils. Planting on well rotted sod, or after
green manuring, such as clover or rye, will also im-
prove the looks and quality of the crop. Like onions,
they need a high percentage of potash in manures
or fertilizers used; this may be given in sulphate of
potash. Avoid planting on ground enriched with
fresh barnyard manure or immediately after a dress-
ing of lime.

Salsify:—The “vegetable oyster,” or salsify, is

8

114 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

to my taste the most delicious root vegetable grown.
It is handled practically in the same way as the
parsnip, but needs, if possible, ground even more
carefully prepared, in order to keep the main root
from sprangling. If a fine light soil cannot be had
for planting, it will pay to hoe or hand-plow furrows
where the drills are to be—not many will be needed,
and put in specially prepared soil, in which the seed
may get a good start.

Radish:—To be of good crisp quality, it is essen-
tial with radishes to grow them just as quickly as
possible. The soil should be rather sandy and not
rich in fresh manure or other nitrogenous fertilizers,
as this tends to produce an undesirable amount of
leaves at the expense of the root. If the ground is
at all dry give a thorough wetting after planting,
which may be on the surface, as the seeds germinate
so quickly that they will be up before the soil has
time to crust over. Gypsum or land-plaster, sown
on white and worked into the soil, will improve both
.crop and quality. They are easily raised under
glass, in autumn or spring in frames, requiring only
forty to fifty degrees at night. It is well to plant
in the hotbed, after a crop of lettuce. Or sow as a
double crop, as suggested under Carrots. For out-
side crops, sow every ten days or two weeks.

Turnip :-—While turnips will thrive well on almost
any soil, the quality—which is somewhat question-

SPECIAL NEEDS IIS

able at the best—will be much better on sandy or
even gravelly soil. Avoid fresh manures as much
as possible, as the turnip is especially susceptible to
scab and worms. They are best when quite small
and for the home table a succession of sowing, only
a few at a time, will give the best results.

LEAF CROPS

Under leaf crops are considered also those of
which the stalk or the flower heads form the edible
portion, such as celery and cauliflower.

Asparagus Brussels Sprouts Cabbage

Cauliflower Celery Endive

Kale -Lettuce Parsley

Rhubarb Spinach

The quality of all these will depend largely upon
growing them rapidly and without check from the
seed-bed to the table. They are all great nitrogen-
consumers and therefore take kindly to liberal sup-
plies of yard manure, which is high in nitrogen.
For celery the manure is best applied to some pre-
ceding*crop, such as early cabbage. The others will
take it “straight.” Most of these plants are best
started under glass or in the seed-bed and trans-
planted later to permanent positions. They will all
be helped greatly by a top-dressing of nitrate of
soda, worked into the soil as soon as they have
become established. This, if it fails to produce the

116 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

dark green healthy growth characteristic of its pres-
ence, should be followed by a second application
after two or three weeks—care being taken, of
course, to use it with reason and restraint, as
directed in Chapter VI.

Another method of growing good cabbages and
similar plants, where the ground is not sufficiently
rich to carry the crop through, is to “manure in the
hill,” either yard or some concentrated manure being
used. If yard manure, incorporate a good forkful
with the soil where each plant is to go. (If any
considerable number are being set, it will of course
be covered in a furrow—first being trampled down,
with the plow). Another way, sure of producing
results, and not inconvenient for a few hundred
plants, is to mark out the piece, dig out with a spade
or hoe a hole some five inches deep at each mark,
dilute poultry manure in an old pail until about the
consistency of thick mud, and put a little less than
half a trowelful in each hole. Mix with the soil
and cover, marking the spot with the back of the
hoe, and then set the plants. By this method, fol-
lowed by a top-dressing of nitrate of soda, I have
repeatedly grown fine cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce
and sprouts. Cotton-seed meal is also very valuable
for manuring in the hill—about a handful to a plant,
as it is rich in nitrogen and rapidly decomposes.

The cabbage group is sometimes hilled up, but if

SPECIAL NEEDS 117

set well down and frequently cultivated, on most
soils this will not be necessary. They all do best
in very deep, moderately heavy soil, heavily ma-
nured and rather moist. An application of lime
some time before planting will be a beneficial pre-
caution. With this group rotation also is almost
imperative. (See page 106.)

The most troublesome enemies attacking these
plants are: the flea-beetle, the cabbage-worm, the
cabbage-maggot (root) and “club-root’’; directions
for fighting all of which will be found in the follow-
ing chapter.

Asparagus:—Asparagus is rightly esteemed one
of the very best spring vegetables. There is a gen-
eral misconception, however—due to the old meth-
ods of growing it—concerning the difficulty of hav-
ing a home supply. As now cared for, it is one of
the easiest of all vegetables to grow, when once the
beds are set and brought to bearing condition. Nor
is it difficult to make the bed, and the only reason
why asparagaus is not more universally found in
the home garden, beside that mentioned above, is
because one has to wait a year for results.

In selecting a spot for the asparagus bed, pick
out the earliest and best drained soil available, even
if quite sandy it will do well. Plow or dig out
trenches three feet apart and sixteen to twenty inches
deep. In the bottoms of these tramp down firmly

118 HomME VEGETABLE GARDENING

six to eight inches of old, thoroughly rotted manure.
Cover with six to eight inches of good soil—not that
coming from the bottom of the trench—and on this
set the crowns or root-clumps—preferably one-year
ones—being careful to spread the roots out evenly,
and covering with enough soil to hold in position,
making them firm in the soil. The roots are set one
foot apart. Then fill in level, thus leaving the
crowns four to six inches below the surface. As the
stalks appear give a light dressing of nitrate of soda
and keep the crop cleanly cultivated. (Lettuce, beets,
beans or any of the small garden vegetables may be
grown between the asparagus rows during the first
part of the season, for the first two years, thus get-
ting some immediate return from labor and ma-
nure). The stalks should not be cut until the second
spring after planting and then only very lightly.
After that full crops may be had.

After the first season, besides keeping cleanly cul-
tivated at all times, in the fall clear off and burn all
tops and weeds and apply a good coating of manure.
Dig or lightly cultivate this in the spring, applying
also a dressing of nitrate of soda, as soon as the
stalks appear. If the yield is not heavy, give a
dressing of bone or of the basic fertilizers mentioned
on page 53. It is not difficult to grow plants from
seed, but is generally more satisfactory to get the
roots from some reliable seedsman.

SPECIAL NEEDS 119

Broccoli:—The broccoli makes a flower Fead as
does the cauliflower. It is, however, inferior in
quality and is not grown to any extent where the
latter will succeed. It has the one advantage of
being hardier and thus can be grown where the cau-
liflower is too uncertain to make its culture worth
while. For culture directions see Cauliflower.

Brussels Sprouts:—In my opinion this vegetable
leaves the cabbage almost as far behind as the cauli-
flower does. It is, if anything, more easily grown
than cabbage, except that the young plants do not
seem able to stand quite so much cold. When ma-
ture, however, it seems to stand almost any amount
of freezing, and it is greatly improved by a few
smart frosts, although it is very good when succeed-
ing the spring crop of cauliflower. It takes longer
to mature than either cabbage or cauliflower.

Cabbage :—Cabbage is one of the few vegetables
which may be had in almost as good quality from
the green-grocer as it can be grown at home, and as
it takes up considerable space, it may often be advis-
able to omit the late sorts from the home garden if
space is very limited. The early supply, however,
should come from the garden—some people think it
should stay there, but I do not agree with them.
Properly cooked it is a very delicious vegetable.

What has already been said (page 115) covers
largely the conditions for successful culture. The

I20 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

soil should be of the richest and deepest, and well
dressed with lime.

Lettuce is grown with advantage between the
rows of early cabbage, and after both are harvested
the ground is used for celery. The early varieties
may be set as closely as eighteen inches in the row,
and twenty-four between rows. The lettuce is taken
out before the row is needed.

The late crop is started in the outside seed-bed
about June Ist to 15th. It will help give better
plants to cut back the tops once or twice during
growth, and an occasional good soaking in dry
weather will prove very beneficial. They are set
in the field during July, and as it often is very dry
at this time, those extra precautions mentioned in
directions for setting out plants, in the preceding
chapter, should be taken. If the newly set plants
are dusted with wood ashes, it will be a wise pre-
caution against insect pests.

Cauliflower :—The cauliflower is easily the queen
of the cabbage group: also it is the most difficult
to raise. (1) It is the most tender and should not
be set out quite so early. (2) It is even a ranker
feeder than the cabbage, and just before heading up
will be greatly improved by applications of liquid
manure. (3) It must have water, and unless the
soil is a naturally damp one, irrigation, either by
turning the hose on between the rows, or directly

Sow seeds for succession crops in a frame, where you can
water them and keep close watch

The plants all ready to be set out in the open garden.
Remember above all to set them in firmly

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SPECIAL NEEDS I2I

around the plants, must be given—two or three times
should be sufficient. (4) The heads must be pro-
tected from the sun. This is accomplished by tying
up the points of leaves, so as to form a tent, or
breaking them (snap the mid-rib only), and folding
them down over the flower. (5) They must be
used as soon as ready, for they deteriorate very
quickly. Take them while the head is still solid and
firm, before the little flower tips begin to open out.

Celery:—This is another favorite vegetable which
has a bad reputation to live down. They used to
plant it at the bottom of a twelve-inch trench and
spend all kinds of unnecessary labor over it. It can
be grown perfectly well on the level and in the
average home garden.

As to soil, celery prefers a moist one, but it must
be well drained. The home supply can, however, be
grown in the ordinary garden, especially if water
may be had in case of injurious drouth.

For the early crop the best sorts are the White
Plume and Golden Self-blanching. Seed is sown in
the last part of February or first part of March.
The seed is very fine and the greatest pains must be
taken to give the best possible treatment. The seed
should be pressed into the soil and barely covered
with very light soil—half sifted leaf-mould or moss.
Never let the boxes dry out, and as soon as the
third or fourth leaf comes, transplant; cut back the

122 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

outside leaves, and set as deeply as possible without
covering the crown. The roots also, if long, should
be cut back. This trimming of leaves and roots
should be given at each-transplanting, thus assuring
a short stocky growth.

Culture of the early crop, after setting out, is
easier than that for the winter crop. There are
two system: (1) The plants are set in rows three or
four feet apart, six inches in the row, and blanched,
either by drawing up the earth in a hill and working
it in about the stalks with the fingers (this operation
is termed “handling’’), or else by the use of boards
laid on edge along the rows, on either side. (2)
The other method is called the “new celery culture,”
and in it the plants are set in beds eight inches apart
each way (ten or twelve inches for large varieties),
the idea being to make the tops of the plants supply
the shade for the blanching. This method has two
disadvantages: it requires extra heavy manuring
and preparation of soil, and plenty of moisture; and
even with this aid the stalks never attain the size
of those grown in rows. The early crop should be
ready in August. The quality is never so good as
that of the later crops.

For the main or winter crop, sow the seed about
April 1st. The same extra care must be taken as in
sowing under glass. In hot, dry weather, shade the
beds; never let them dry out. Transplant to second

SPECIAL NEEDS 123

bed as soon as large enough to develop root system,
before setting in the permanent position.

When setting in late June or July, be sure to put
the plants in up to the hearts, not over, and set
firmly. Give level clean culture until about August
15th, when, with the hoe, wheel hoe or cultivator,
earth should be drawn up along the rows, followed
by “handling.” The plants for early use are
trenched (see Chapter XIV), but that left for late
use must be banked up, which is done by making
the hills higher still, by the use of the spade (or
see illustration facing p. 107). For further
treatment see Chapter XIV.

Care must be taken not to perform any work in
the celery patch while the plants are wet.

Corn salad or Fetticus:—This salad plant is not
largely grown. It is planted about the middle of
April and given the same treatment as spinach.

Chicory:—This also is little grown. The Wit-
loof, a kind now being used, is however much more
desirable. Sow in drills, thin to five or six inches,
and in August or September, earth up, as with early
celery, to blanch the stalks, which are used for
salads, or boiled. Cut-back roots, planted in boxes
of sand placed in a moderately warm dark place and
watered, send up a growth of tender leaves, making
a fine salad.

Chervil:—Curled chervil is grown the same as

124 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

parsley and used for garnishing or seasoning. The
root variety resembles the stump-rooted carrot, the
quality being improved by frost. Sow in April
or September. Treat like parsnip.

Cives:—Leaves are used for imparting an onion
flavor. A clump of roots set out will last many
years.

Cress:—Another salad little grown in the home
garden. To many, however, its spicy, pungent
flavor is particularly pleasing. It is easily grown,
but should be planted frequently—about every two
weeks. Sow in drills, twelve to fourteen inches
apart. Its only special requirement is moisture.
Water is not necessary, but if a bed can be started
in some clean stream or pool, it will take care of
itself.

Upland cress or “‘pepper grass” grows in ordinary
garden soil, being one of the very first salads. Sow
in April, in drills twelve or fourteen inches apart.
It grows so rapidly that it may be had in five or
six weeks. Sow frequently for succession, as it
runs to seed very quickly.

Chard :—See Spinach.

Dandelion :—This is an excellent “greens,” but as
the crop is not ready until second season from plant-
ing it is not grown as much as it should be. Sow
the seed in April—very shallow. It is well to put in
with it a few lettuce or turnip seed to mark the rows.

SPECIAL NEEDS 125

Drills should be one foot apart, and plants thinned
to eight to twelve inches.

The quality is infinitely superior to the wild dan-
delion and may be still further improved by blanch-
ing. If one is content to take a small crop, a cutting
may be made in the fall, the same season as the
sowing.

Endive :—This salad vegetable is best for fall use.
Sow in June or July, in drills eighteen to twenty-
four inches apart, and thin to ten to twelve inches.
To be fit for use it must be blanched, either by tying
up with raffia in a loose bunch, or by placing two
wide boards in an inverted V shape over the rows;
and in either case be sure the leaves are dry when
doing this.

Kale:—Kale is a non-heading member of the cab-
bage group, used as greens, both in spring and
winter. It is improved by frost, but even then is a
little tough and heavy. Its chief merit lies in the
fact that it is easily had when greens of the better
sorts are hard to get, as it may be left out and cut
as needed during winter—even from under snow.
The fall crop is given the same treatment as late
cabbage. Siberian kale is sown in September and
wintered-over like spinach.

Lettuce:—Lettuce is grown in larger quantities
than all the other salad plants put together. By the
use of hotbeds it may be had practically the year

126 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

round. The first sowing for the spring under-glass
crop is made in January or February. These are
handled as for the planting outside—see Chapter
VIII.—but are set in the frames six to eight inches
each way, according to variety. Ventilate freely
during the day when over 55° give 45° at night.
Water only when needed, but then thoroughly, and
preferably only on mornings of bright sunny days.

The plants for first outdoor crops are handled as
already described. After April 1st planting should
be made every two weeks. During July and August
the seed-beds must be kept shaded and moist. In
August, first sowing for fall under-glass crop is
made, which can be matured in coldframes; later
sowings going into hotbeds.

In quality, I consider the hard-heading varieties
superior to the loose-heading sorts, but of course
that is a matter of taste. The former is best for
crops maturing from the middle of June until Sep-
tember, the latter for early and late sowings, as they
mature more quickly. The cos type is good for sum-
mer growing but should be tied up to blanch well.
To be at its best, lettuce should be grown very rap-
idly, and the use of top-dressings of nitrate are par-
ticularly beneficial with this crop. The ground
should be light, warm, and very rich, and cultivation
shallow but frequent.

Mushroom:—While the mushroom is not a gar-

SPECIAL NEEDS 127

den crop, strictly speaking, still it is one of the most
delicious of all vegetables for the home table, and
though space does not permit a long description of
the several details of its culture, I shall try to include
all the essential points as succinctly as possible. (1)
The place for the bed may be found in any sheltered,
dry spot—cellar, shed or greenhouse—where an
even temperature of 53 to 58 degrees can be main-
tained and direct sunlight excluded. (Complete
darkness is not necessary; it is frequently so con-
sidered, but only because in dark places the tempera-
ture and moisture are apt to remain more even.)
(2) The material is fresh horse-manure, from
which the roughest of the straw has been shaken out.
This is stacked in a compact pile and trampled—
wetting down if at all dry—to induce fermentation.
This process must be repeated four or five times,
care being required never to let the heap dry out and
burn; time for re-stacking being indicated by the
heap’s steaming. At the second or third turning,
add about one-fifth, in bulk, of light loam. (3)
When the heat of the pile no longer rises above 100
to 125 degrees (as indicated by a thermometer) put
into the beds, tramping or beating very firmly, until
about ten inches deep. When the temperature re-
cedes to 90 degrees, put in the spawn. Each brick
will make a dozen or so pieces. Put these in three
inches deep, and twelve by nine inches apart, cover-

128 HomME VEGETABLE GARDENING

ing lightly. Then beat down the surface evenly.
After eight days, cover with two inches of light
loam, firmly compacted. This may be covered with
a layer of straw or other light material to help
maintain an even degree of moisture, but should be
removed as soon as the mushrooms begin to appear.
Water only when the soil is very dry; better if water
is warmed to about 60 degrees. When gathering
never leave stems in tle bed as they are likely to
breed maggots. The crop should appear in six to
eight weeks after spawning the bed.

Parsley:—This very easily grown little plant
should have at least a row or two in the seed-bed
devoted to it. For use during winter, a box or a
few pots may be filled with cut-back roots and given
moderate temperature and moisture. If no frames
are on hand, the plants usually will do well in a
sunny window.

Parsley seed is particularly slow in germinating.
Use a few seeds of turnip or carrot to indicate the
rows, and have the bed very finely prepared.

Rhubarb :—This is another of the standard vege-
tables which no home garden should be without.
For the bed pick out a spot where the roots can stay
without interfering with the plowing and working
of the garden—next the asparagus bed, if in a good
early location, will be as good as any. One short
row will supply a large family.

| 7

| y -. Z B

Early Jersey Wakefield, the standard sugar-loaf
cabbage, fine in quality

Drumhead Savoy cabbage. The Savoy type
is the finest in quality of all the cabbages

& Fei

Early Snowball cauliflower. Not quite so

hardy as cabbage. To keep white, tie leaves
over maturing heads

Vegetable Marrow Squash is one of the good
vegetables which should be more generally
grown

SPECIAL NEEDS 129

The bed is set either with roots or young plants,
the former being the usual method. The ground
should first be made as deep and rich as possible.
If poor, dig out the rows, which should be four or
five feet apart, to a depth of two feet or more and
work in a foot of good manure, refilling with the
best of the soil excavated. Set the roots about four
feet apart in the row, the crowns being about four
inches below the surface. No stalks should be cut
the first season; after that they will bear abundantly
many years.

In starting from seed, sow in March in frames or
vutside in April; when well along—about the first
of June—set out in rows, eighteen by twelve inches.
By the following April they will be ready for their
permanent position.

Manuring in the fall, as with asparagus, to be
worked in in the spring, is necessary for good re-
sults. I know of no crop which so quickly responds
to liberal dressings of nitrate of soda, applied first
just as growth starts in in the spring. The seed
stalks should be broken off as fast as they appear,
until late in the season.

Sea-Kale:—When better known in this country,
sea-kale will be given a place beside the asparagus
and rhubarb, for, like them, it may be used year after
year. Many believe it superior in quality to either
asparagus or cauliflower.

9

130 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

It is grown from either seed or pieces of the root,
the former method, being probably the more satis-
factory. Sow in April, in drills fourteen inches
apart, thinning to five or six. Transplant in the fol-
Jowing spring as described for rhubarb—but setting
three feet apart each way. In the fall, after the
leaves have fallen—and every succeeding fall—cover
each crown with a shovelful of clean sand and
then about eighteen inches of earth, dug out from
between the rows. This is to blanch the spring
growth. After cutting, shovel off the earth and sand
and enrich with manure for the following season’s
growth.

Spinach:—For the first spring crop of this good
and wholesome vegetable, the seed is sown in Sep-
tember, and carried over with a protection of hay
or other rough litter. Crops for summer and fall
are sown in sucessive plantings from April on, Long-
Standing being the best sort to sow after about May
15th. Seed of the New Zealand spinach should be
soaked several hours in hot water, before being
planted.

For the home garden, I believe that the Swiss
chard beet is destined to be more popular, as it
becomes known, than any of the spinaches. It is
sown in successive plantings from April on, but
will yield leaves all season long; they are cut close
to the soil, and in an almost incredibly short time

SPECIAL NEEDS 131

the roots have thrown up a new crop, the amount
taken during the season being wonderful.

Spinach wants a strong and very rich soil, and
dressings of nitrate show good results.

THE FRUIT CROPS

Under this heading are included:

Bean, dwarf Bean, pole Corn Cucumber

Egg-plant Melon, musk Melon, water Okra

Peas Pepper Pumpkins Squash
Tomato

Most of these vegetables differ from both the pre-
ceding groups in two important ways. First of all,
the soil should not be made too rich, especially in
nitrogenous manures, such as strong fresh yard-
manure; although light dressings of nitrate of soda
are often of great help in giving them a quick start
—as when setting out in the field. Second, they
are warm-weather loving plants, and nothing is
gained by attempting to sow or set out the plants
until all danger from late frosts is over, and the
ground is well warmed up. (Peas, of course, are an
exception to this rule, and to some extent the early
beans.) Third, they require much more room and
are grown for the most part in hills.

Light, warm, “quick,” sandy to gravelly soils, and
old, fine, well rotted manure—applied generally in

132 HomE VEGETABLE GARDENING

the hill besides that plowed under, make the best
combination for results. Such special hills are pre-
pared by marking off, digging out the soil to the
depth of eight to ten inches, and eighteen inches to
two feet square, and incorporating several forkfuls
of the compost. A little guano, or better still cotton-
seed meal, say 14 to 1 gill of the former, or a gill
of the latter, mixed with the compost when putting
into the hill, will also be very good. Hills to be
planted early should be raised an inch or two above
the surface, unless they are upon sloping ground.
The greatest difficulty in raising all the vine
fruits—melons, etc.—is in successfully combating
their insect enemies—the striped beetle, the borer
and the flat, black “‘stink-bug,” being the worst of
these. Remedies will be suggested in the next chap-
ter. But for the home garden, where only a few
hills of each will be required, by far the easiest and
the only sure way of fighting them will be by pro-
tecting with bottomless boxes, large enough to cover
the hills, and covered with mosquito netting, or
better, “plant-protecting cloth,” which has the addi-
tional merit of giving the hills an early start. These
boxes may be easily made of one-half by eight-inch
boards, or from ordinary cracker-boxes, such as used
for making flats. Plants so protected in the earlier
stages of growth will usually either not be attacked,
or will, with the assistance of the remedies described

SPECIAL NEEDS 133

in the following chapter, be able to withstand the
insect’s visits.

Beans, dwarf :—Beans are one of the most widely
liked of all garden vegetables—and one of the most
easily grown. They are very particular about only
one thing—not to have a heavy wet soil. The dwarf
or bush sorts are planted in double or single drills,
eighteen to twenty-four inches apart, and for the
first sowing not much over an inch deep. Later
plantings should go in two to three inches deep,
according to soil. Ashes or some good mixed fer-
tilizer high in potash, applied and well mixed in at
time of planting, will be very useful.

As the plants gain size they should be slightly
hilled—to help hold the stalks up firmly. Never
work over or pick from the plants while they are
wet. The dwarf limas should not be planted until
ten to fourteen days later than the early sorts. Be
sure to put them in edgeways, with the eye down,
and when there is no prospect of immediate rain,
or the whole planting is fairly sure to be lost.

Beans, pole:—The pole varieties should not go in
until about the time for the limas. Plant in specially
prepared hills (see above) ten to twenty seeds, and
when well up thin, leaving three to five. Poles are
best set when preparing the hills. A great improve-
ment over the old-fashioned pole is made by nailing
building laths firmly across 2 x 3-in, posts seven or

134 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

eight feet high (see illustration). To secure extra
early pods on the poles pinch back the vines at five
feet high.

Corn:—For extra early ears, corn may easily be
started on sod, as directed for cucumbers. Be sure,
however, not to get into the open until danger from
frost is over—usually at least ten days after it is
safe for the first planting, which is seldom made
before May ist. Frequent, shallow cultivation is a
prime necessity in growing this crop. When well
up, thin to four stalks to a hill—usually five to
seven kernels being planted. A slight hilling when
the tassels appear will be advisable. Plant fre-
quently for succession crops. The last sowing may
be made as late as the first part of July if the seed
is well firmed in, to assure immediate germination.
Sweet corn for the garden is frequently planted in
drills, about three feet apart, and thinning to ten
to twelve inches.

Cucumber:—This universal favorite is easily
grown if the striped beetle is held at bay. For the
earliest fruits start on sod in the frames: Cut out
sods four to six inches square, where the grass indi-
cates rich soil. Pack close together in the frame,
grass side down, and push seven or eight seeds into
each, firmly enough to be held in place, covering with
about one and a half inches of light soil; water thor-
oughly and protect with glass or cloth, taking care

SPECIAL NEEDS 135

to ventilate, as described in Chapter VIII. Set out
in prepared hills after danger of frost is over.

Outside crop is planted directly in the hills, using
a dozen or more seeds and thinning to three or four.

Egg-plant:—The egg-plant is always started un-
der glass, for the Northern States, and should be
twice transplanted, the second time into pots, to be
of the best size when put out. This should not be
until after tomatoes are set, as it is perhaps the
tenderest of all garden vegetables as regards heat.
The soil should be very rich and as moist as can be
selected. If dry, irrigating will be necessary. This
should not be delayed until the growth becomes
stunted, as sudden growth then induced is likely to
cause the fruit to crack.

Watch for potato-bugs on your egg-plants. They
seem to draw these troublesome beetles as a magnet
does iron filings, and I have seen plants practically
ruined by them in one day. As they seem to know
there will not be time to eat the whole fruit they
take pains to eat into the stems. The only sure
remedy is to knock them off with a piece of shingle
into a pan of water and kerosene. Egg-plants are
easily burned by Paris green, and that standard
remedy cannot be so effectively used as on other
crops; hellebore or arsenate of lead is good. As
the season of growth is very limited, it is advisable,
besides having the plants as well developed as

136 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

possible when set out, to give a quick start with
cotton-seed meal or nitrate, and liquid manure
later is useful, as they are gross feeders. The
fruits are ready to eat from the size of a turkey
egg to complete development.

Melon, musk :-—The culture of this delicious vege-
table is almost identical with that of the cucumber.
If anything it is more particular about having light
soil. If put in soil at all heavy, at the time of
preparing the hill, add sand and leaf-mould to the
compost, the hills made at least three feet square,
and slightly raised. This method is also of use in
planting the other vine crops.

Melon, water:—In the warm Southern States
watermelons may be grown cheaply, and they are so
readily shipped that in the small home gardens it
will not pay to grow them, for they take up more
space than any other vegetable, with the exception
of winter squash. The one advantage of growing
them, where there is room, is that better quality than
that usually to be bought may be obtained. Give
them the hottest spot in the garden and a sandy
quick soil. Use a variety recommended for your
particular climate. Give the same culture as for
musk melon, except that the hill should be at least
six to ten feet apart each way. By planting near
the edge of the garden, and pinching back the vines,
room may be saved and the ripening up of the crop
made more certain.

SPECIAL NEEDS 137

Okra:—Although the okra makes a very strong
plant—and incidentally is one of the most orna-
mental of all garden vegetables—the seed is quickly
rotted by wet or cold. Sow not earlier than May
25th, in warm soil, planting thinly in drills, about
one and a half inches deep, and thinning to a foot
or so; cultivate as with corn in drills. All pods not
used for soup or stems during summer may be dried
and used in winter.

Peas:—With care in making successive sowings,
peas may be had during a long season. The earliest,
smooth varieties are planted in drills twelve to
eighteen inches apart, early in April. These are,
however, of very inferior quality compared to the
wrinkled sorts, which may now be had practically
as early as the others. With the market gardener,
the difference of a few days in the maturing of the
crop is of a great deal more importance than the
quality, but for the home garden the opposite is
true.

Another method of planting the dwarf-growing
kinds is to make beds of four rows, six to eight
inches apart, with a two-foot alley between beds.
The tall-growing sorts must be supported by brush
or in other ways; and are put about four feet apart
in double rows, six inches apart. The early varieties
if sown in August will usually mature a good fall
crop. The early plantings should be made in light,

138 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

dry soil and but one inch deep; the later ones in
deep loam. In neither case should the ground be
made too rich, especially in nitrogen; and it should
not be wet when the seed is planted.

Pepper:—A dozen pepper plants will give abund-
ance of pods for the average family. The varieties
have been greatly improved within recent years in
the quality of mildness.

The culture recommended for egg-plant is ap-
plicable also to the pepper. The main difference is
that, although the pepper is very tender when young,
the crop maturing in the autumn will not be injured
by considerable frost.

Pumpkin:—The “sugar” or “pie” varieties of the
pumpkin are the only ones used in garden culture,
and these only where there is plenty of ground for
all other purposes. The culture is the same as that
for late squashes, which follows.

Squash:—For the earliest squash the bush varie-
ties of Scallop are used; to be followed by the sum-
mer Crookneck and other summer varieties, best
among which are the Fordhook and Delicata. For
all, hills should be prepared as described at the
beginning of this section and in addition it is well
to mix with manure a shovelful of coal ashes, used
to keep away the borer, to the attack of which
the squash is particularly liable. The cultivation is
the same as that used for melons or cucumbers,

SPECIAL NEEDS 139

except that the hills for the winter sorts must be
at least eight feet apart and they are often put
twelve.

Tomato:—For the earliest crop, tomatoes are
started about March Ist. They should be twice
transplanted, and for best results the second trans-
planting should be put into pots—or into the frames,
setting six to eight inches each way. They are not
set out until danger of frost is over, and the ground
should not be too rich; old manure used in the hill,
with a dressing of nitrate at setting out, or a few
days after, will give them a good start. According
to variety, they are set three to five feet apart—four
feet, where staking or trellising is given, as it
should always be in garden culture, will be as
much as the largest-growing plants require. It will
pay well, both for quality and quantity of fruit, to
keep most of the suckers cut or rubbed off. The
ripening of a few fruits may be hastened by tying
paper bags over the bunches, or by picking and
ripening on a board in the hot sun. For ripening
fruit after frost see Chapter XIV.

A sharp watch should be kept for the large green
tomato-worm, which is almost exactly the color of
the foliage. His presence may first be noticed by
fruit and leaves eaten. Hand-picking is the best
remedy. Protection must be made against the cut-
worm in localities where he works.

140 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

All the above, of course, will be considered in con-
nection with the tabulated information as to dates,
depths and distances for sowing, quantities, etc.,
given in the table on page 25, and is supplemented
by the information about insects, diseases and har-
vesting given in Chapters XIII and XIV, and espe-
cially in the Chapter on Varieties which follows, and
which is given separately from the present chapter
in order that the reader may the more readily make
out a list, when planning his garden or making up
his order sheet for the seedsman.

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CHAPTER XII
BEST VARIETIES OF THE GARDEN VEGETABLES

T is my purpose in this chapter to assist the
gardener of limited experience to select varie-
ties sure to give satisfaction.

To the man or woman planning a garden for the
first time there is no one thing more confusing than
the selection of the best varieties. This in spite of
the fact that catalogues should be, and might be, a
great help instead of almost an actual hindrance.

I suppose that seedsmen consider extravagance in
catalogues, both in material and language, necessary,
or they would not go to the limit in expense for
printing and mailing, as they do. But from the
point of view of the gardener, and especially of the
beginner, it is to be regretted that we cannot have
the plain unvarnished truth about varieties, for
surely the good ones are good enough to use up all
the legitimate adjectives upon which seedsmen
would care to pay postage. But such is not the case.
Every season sees the introduction of literally hun-
dreds of new varieties—or, as is more often the case,

(141)

142 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

old varieties under new names—which have actually
no excuse for being unloaded upon the public except
that they will give a larger profit to the seller. Of
course, in a way, it is the fault of the public for pay-
ing the fancy prices asked—that is, that part of the
public which does not know. Commercial planters
and experienced gardeners stick to well known sorts.
New varieties are tried, if at all, by the packet only
—and then “‘on suspicion.”

In practically every instance the varieties men-
tioned have been grown by the author, but his re-
commendations are by no means based upon personal
experience alone. Wherever introductions of recent
years have proved to be actual improvements upon
older varieties, they are given in preference to the
old, which are, of course, naturally much better
known.

It is impossible for any person to pick out this,
that or the other variety of a vegetable and label it
unconditionally ‘‘the best.’ But the person who
wants to save time in making out his seed list can
depend upon the following to have been widely
tested, and to have “made good.”

Asparagus:—While there are enthusiastic claims
put forth for several of the different varieties of
asparagus, as far as I have seen any authentic rec-
ord of tests (Bulletin 173, N. J. Agr. Exp. Station),
the prize goes to Palmetto, which gave twenty-eight

VEGETABLE VARIETIES 143

per cent. more than its nearest rival, Donald’s EI-
mira. Big yield alone is frequently no recommen-
dation of a vegetable to the home gardener, but in
this instance it does make a big difference; first, be-
cause Palmetto is equal to any other asparagus in
quality, and second, because the asparagus bed is
producing only a few weeks during the gardening
season, and where ground is limited, as in most
home gardens, it is important to cut this waste space
down as much as possible. This is for beds kept
in good shape and highly fed. Barr’s Mammoth
will probably prove more satisfactory if the bed
is apt to be more or less neglected, for the reason
that under such circumstances it will make thicker
stalks than the Palmetto.

Beans (dwarf) :—Of the dwarf beans there are
three general types: the early round-podded “string”
beans, the stringless round-pods, and the usually
more flattish “wax” beans. For first early, the old
reliable Extra Early Red Valentine remains as
good as any sort I have ever tried. In good strains

of this variety the pods have very slight strings, and
- they are very fleshy. It makes only a small bush
and is fairly productive and of good quality. The
care-taking planter, however, will put in only enough
of these first early beans to last a week or ten days,
as the later sorts are more prolific and of better qual-
ity. Burpee’s Stringless Greenpod is a good second

144. HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

early. It is larger, finer, stringless even when ma-
ture, and of exceptionally handsome appearance. Im-
proved Refugee is the most prolific of the green-
pods, and the best of them for quality, but with
slight strings. Of the “wax” type, Brittle Wax is
the earliest, and also a tremendous yielder. The
long-time favorite, Rust-proof Golden Wax, is an-
other fine sort, and an especially strong healthy
grower. The top-notch in quality among all bush
beans is reached, perhaps, in Burpee’s White Wax
—the white referring not to the pods, which are of
a light yellow, and flat—but to the beans, which are
pure white in all stages of growth. It has one un-
usual and extremely valuable quality—the pods re-
main tender longer than those of any other sort.
Of the dwarf limas there is a new variety which
is destined, I think, to become the leader of the
half-dozen other good sorts to be had. That is the
Burpee Improved. The name is rather misleading,
as it is not an improved strain of the Dreer’s or
Kumerle bush lima, but a mutation, now thoroughly
fixed. The bushes are stronger-growing and much
larger than those of the older types, reaching a
height of nearly three feet, standing strongly erect;
both pods and beans are much larger, and it is a
week earlier. Henderson’s new Early Giant I have
not yet tried, but from the description I should say
it is the same type as the above. Of the pole limas,
the new Giant-podded is the hardiest—an important

VEGETABLE VARIETIES 145

point in limas, which are a little delicate in consti-
tution anyway, especially in the seedling stage—and
the biggest yielder of any I have grown and just as
good in quality—and there is no vegetable much
better than well cooked limas. With me, also, it has
proved as early as that old standard, Early Levia-
than, but this may have been a chance occurrence.
Ford’s Mammoth is another excellent pole lima of
large size. Of the other pole beans, the two that are
still my favorites are Kentucky Wonder, or Old
Homestead, and Golden Cluster. The former has
fat meaty green pods, entirely stringless until nearly
mature, and of enormous length. J have measured
many over eight and a half inches long—and they
are borne in great profusion. Golden Cluster is one
of the handsomest beans I know. It is happily
named, for the pods, of a beautiful rich golden yellow
color, hang in generous clusters and great profusion.
In quality it has no superior; it has always been a
great favorite with my customers. One need never
fear having too many of these, as the dried beans
are pure white and splendid for winter use. Last
season I tried a new pole bean called Burger’s Green-
pod Stringless or White-seeded Kentucky Wonder
(the dried seeds of the old sort being brown). It
did well, but was in so dry a place that I could not
tell whether it was an improvement over the stand-
ard or not. It is claimed to be earlier.

10

146 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

Beets:—In beets, varieties are almost endless, but
I confess that I have found no visible difference in
many cases. Edmund’s Early and Early Model
are good for first crops. The Egyptian strains,
though largely used for market, have never been
as good in quality with me. For the main crop I
like Crimson Globe. In time it is a second early,
of remarkably good form, smooth skin and fine
quality and color.

Broccoli:—This vegetable is a poorer cousin of
the cauliflower (which, by the way, has been termed
“only a cabbage with a college education’). It is
of little use where cauliflower can be grown, but
serves as a substitute in northern sections, as it is
more hardy than that vegetable. Early White
French is the standard sort.

Brussels sprouts:—This vegetable, in my opin-
ion, is altogether too little grown. It is as easy to
grow as fall and winter cabbage, and while the yield
is less, the quality is so much superior that for the
home garden it certainly should be a favorite. To-
day (Jan. 19th) we had for dinner sprouts from a
few old plants that had been left in transplanting
boxes in an open coldframe. These had been out all
winter—with no protection, repeatedly freezing and
thawing, and, while of course small, they were bet-
ter in quality than any cabbage you ever ate. Dal-
keith is the best dwarf-growing sort. Danish Prize

VEGETABLE VARIETIES 147

is a new sort, giving a much heavier yield than the
older types. I have tried it only one year, but should
say it will become the standard variety.

Cabbage:—In cabbages, too, there is an endless
mix-up of varieties. The Jersey Wakefield still re-
mains the standard early. But it is at the best but
a few days ahead of the flat-headed early sorts
which stand much longer without breaking, so that
for the home garden a very few heads will do. Glory
of Enkhuisen is a new early sort that has become
a great favorite. Early Summer and Succession are
good to follow these, and Danish Ballhead is the best
quality winter cabbage, and unsurpassed for keep-
ing qualities. But for the home garden the Savoy
type is, to my mind, far and away the best. It is not
in the same class with the ordinary sorts at all. Per-
fection Drumhead Savoy is the best variety. Of the
red cabbages, Mammoth Rock is the standard.

Carrots:—The carrots are more restricted as to
number of varieties. Golden Ball is the earliest of
them all, but also the smallest yielder. Early Scarlet
Horn is the standard early, being a better yielder
than the above. The Danvers Half-long is probably
grown more than all other kinds together. It grows
to a length of about six inches, a very attractive
deep orange in color. Where the garden soil is
not in excellent condition, and thoroughly fined and
pulverized as it should be, the shorter-growing kinds,

148 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

Oxheart and Chantenay, will give better satisfaction.
If there is any choice in quality, I should award it to
Chantenay.

Cauliflower:—There is hardly a seed catalogue
which does not contain its own special brand of the
very best and earliest cauliflower ever introduced.
These are for the most part selected strains of either
the old favorite, Henderson’s Snowball, or the old
Early Dwarf Erfurt. Snowball, and Burpee’s Best
Early, which resembles it, are the best varieties I
have ever grown for spring or autumn. They are
more likely to head, and of much finer quality than
any of the large late sorts. Where climatic condi-
tions are not favorable to growing cauliflower, and
in dry sections, Dry-weather is the most certain to
form heads.

Celery:—For the home garden the dwarf-grow-
ing, “self-blanching” varieties of celery are much to
be preferred. White Plume and Golden Self-blanch-
ing are the best. The former is the earliest celery
and of excellent quality, but not a good keeper. Re-
cent introductions in celery have proved very real
improvements. Perhaps the best of the newer sorts,
for home use, is Winter Queen, as it is more readily
handled than some of the standard market sorts. In
quality it has no superior. When put away for win-
ter properly, it will keep through April.

Corn:—You will have to suit yourself about corn.

2 a Li tanita po re le eae)

» Sow kale for use in fall and winter when greens
are scarce. Frost only improves it

Seedlings of Prizetaker onions, started in com-

post covered with one inch of sand. The large

onions are from previous year’s crop, started in

the same way. They were prize-takers at
several local fairs

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cs : x |

VEGETABLE VARIETIES 149

I have not the temerity to name any best varieties—
every seedsman has about half a dozen that are ab-
solutely unequaled. For home use, I have cut my
list down to three: Golden Bantam, a dwarf-grow-
ing early of extraordinary hardiness—can be planted
earlier than any other sort and, while the ears are
small and with yellow kernels, it is exceptionally
sweet and fine in flavor. This novelty of a few years
since, has attained wide popular favor as quickly as
any vegetable I know. Seymour’s Sweet Orange
iS a new variety, somewhat similar to Golden Ban-
tam, but later and larger, of equally fine quality.
White Evergreen, a perfected strain of Stowell’s
Evergreen, a standard favorite for years, is the
third. It stays tender longer than any other sweet
corn I have ever grown.

Cucumbers:—Of cucumbers also there is a long
and varied list of names. The old Extra Early
White Spine is still the best early ; for the main crop,
some “perfected” form of White Spine. I myself
like the Fordhood Famous, as it is the healthiest
strain I ever grew, and has very large fruit that
stays green, while being of fine quality. In the last
few years the Davis Perfect has won great popular-
ity, and deservedly so. Many seedsmen predict that
this is destined to become the leading standard—
and where seedsmen agree let us prick up our ears!
It has done very well with me, the fruit being the

150 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

handsomest of any I have grown. If it proves as
strong a grower it will replace Fordhood Famous
with me.

Egg-plant:—New York Improved Purple is still
the standard, but it has been to a large extent re-
placed by Black Beauty, which has the merit of being
ten days earlier and a more handsome fruit. When
once tried it will very likely be the only sort grown.

Endive :—This is a substitute for lettuce for which
I personally have never cared. It is largely used
commercially. Broad-leaved Batavian is a good va-
riety. Giant Fringed is the largest .

Kale:—Kale is a foreigner which has never been
very popular in this country. Dwarf Scott Curled
is the tenderest and most delicate (or least coarse)
in flavor.

Kohlrabi:—This peculiar mongrel should be bet-
ter known. It looks as though a turnip had started
to climb into the cabbage class and stopped half-way.
When gathered young, not more than an inch and a
half in diameter at the most, they are quite nice
and tender. They are of the easiest cultivation.
White Vienna is the best.

Leek :—For those who like this sort of thing it is
—just the sort of thing they like. American Flag
is the best variety, but why it was given the first
part of that name, I do not know.

k

Defender is one of the
best colored-flesh mid-
season varieties

Eden Gem is a favorite
variety of the green-
flesh sorts

1 sorts are
Spray early to save crops

Muskmelons of this sort-—Muskmelons of al
susceptible to disease.

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aye, poos e st toiedng eyL

dod a}¥] 10} poos st asvsCQ

uojaut
‘punoir = “{y ews
e st yonbueg

= <I

uostas-prt
Apa anjesreduros

a

VEGETABLE VARIETIES 151

Letiuce:—To cover the lettuces thoroughly would
take a chapter by itself. For lack of space, I shall
have to mention only a few varieties, although there
are many others as good and suited to different
purposes. For quality, I put Mignonette at the
top of the list, but it makes very small heads. Grand
Rapids is the best loose-head sort—fine for under
glass, in frames and early outdoors. Last fall from
a bench 40 x 4 ft., I sold $36 worth in one crop,
besides some used at home. I could not sell winter
head lettuce to customers who had once had this
sort, so good was its quality. May King and Big
Boston are the best outdoor spring and early sum-
mer sorts. New York and Deacon are the best solid
cabbage-head types for resisting summer heat, and
long standing. Of the cos type Paris White is good.

Muskmelon:—The varieties of muskmelon are
also without limit. I mention but two—which have
given good satisfaction out of a large number tried,
in my own experience. Netted Gem (known as
Rocky Ford) for a green-fleshed type, and Emerald
Gem for salmon-fleshed. There are a number of
newer varieties, such as Hoodoo, Miller’s Cream,
Montreal, Nutmeg, etc., all of excellent quality.

Watermelon :—With me (in Connecticut) the sea-
sons are a little short for this fruit. Cole’s Early
and Sweetheart have made the best showing. Hal-
bert Honey is the best for quality .

152 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

Okra:—In cool sections the Perfected Perkins
does best, but it is not quite so good in quality as the
southern favorite, White Velvet. The flowers and
plants of this vegetable are very ornamental.

Onion:—For some unknown reason, different
seedsmen call the same onion by the same name. I
have never found any explanation of this, except
that a good many onions given different names in
the catalogues are really the same thing. At least
they grade into each other more than -other vege-
tables. With me Prizetaker is the only sort now
grown in quantity, as I have found it to outyield all
other yellows, and to be a good keeper. It is a little
milder in quality than the American yellows—Dan-
vers and Southport Globe. When started under
glass and transplanted out in April, it attains the size
and the quality of the large Spanish onions of which
it is a descendant. Weathersfield Red is the stand-
ard flat red, but not quite so good in quality or for
keeping as Southport Red Globe. Of the whites
T like best Mammoth Silver-skin. It is ready early
and the finest in quality, to my taste, of all the
onions, but not a good keeper. Ailsa Craig, a new
English sort now listed in several American cata-
logues, is the best to grow for extra fancy onions,
especially for exhibiting; it should be started in
February or March under glass.

Parsley :—Emerald is a large-growing, beautifully

VEGETABLE VARIETIES 153

colored and mild-flavored sort, well worthy of
adoption.

Parsnip :—This vegetable is especially valuable be-
cause it may be had at perfection when other vegeta-
bles are scarce. Hollow Crown (“Improved,” of
course!) is the best.

_ Peas:—Peas are worse than corn. You will find
enough exclamation points in the pea sections of cat-
alogues to train the vines on. If you want to escape
brain-fag and still have as good as the best, if not
better, plant Gradus (or Prosperity) for early and
second early; Boston Unrivaled (an improved form
of Telephone) for main crop, and Gradus for au-
tumn. These two peas are good yielders, free grow-
ers and of really wonderfully fine quality. They
need bushing, but I have never found a variety of
decent quality that does not.

Pepper:—Ruby King is the standard, large, red,
mild pepper, and as good as any. Chinese Giant is
a newer sort, larger but later. The flesh is extreme-
ly thick and mild. On account of this quality, it will
have a wider range of use than the older sorts.

Pumpkins:—The old Large Cheese, and the newer
Quaker Pie, are as prolific, hardy and fine in quality
and sweetness as any.

Potato :—Bovee is a good early garden sort, but
without the best of culture is very small. Irish Cob-
bler is a good early white. Green Mountain is a

154 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

universal favorite for main crop in the East—a sure
yielder and heavy-crop potato of excellent quality.
Uncle Sam is the best quality potato I ever grew.
Baked, they taste almost as rich as chestnuts.

Radish:—I do not care to say much about rad-
ishes; I do not like them. They are, however, uni-
versal favorites. They come round, half-long, long
and tapering; white, red, white-tipped, crimson,
rose, yellow-brown and black; and from the size
of a button to over a foot long by fifteen inches in
circumference—the latter being the new Chinese or
Celestial. So you can imagine what a revel of va-
rieties the seedsmen may indulge in. I have tried
many—and cut my own list down to two, Rapid-
red (probably an improvement of the old standard,
Scarlet Button), and Crimson Globe (or Giant), a
big, rapid, healthy grower of good quality, and one
that does not get “corky.” A little land-plaster, or
gypsum, worked into the soil at time of planting,
will add to both appearance and quality in radishes.

Spinach:—The best variety of spinach is Swiss
Chard Beet (see below). If you want the real sort,
use Long Season, which will give you cuttings long
after other sorts have run to seed. New Zealand
will stand more heat than any other sort. Victoria
is a newer variety, for which the claim of best qual-
ity is made. In my own trial I could not notice very
much difference. It has, however, thicker and “sa-
yoyed” leaves,

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URITIIUTY “WOIUO ay} 0} SuISNOD ysIy ‘sysa7J purl ay] & AOA, ‘soysipes ao1-se-dsti5

Mammoth Santwich Is- Black radishes. They

land salsify, the vege- come also in red, white,

table oyster, is a deli- scarlet, yellow and com-
cious root vegetable bination colors

VEGETABLE VARIETIES 155

Salsify:—This is, to my taste, the most delicious
of all root vegetables. It will not do well in soil not
deep and finely pulverized, but a row or two for
home use can be had by digging and fining before
sowing the seed. It is worth extra work. Mam-
moth Sandwich is the best variety.

Squash :—Of this fine vegetable there are no bet-
ter sorts for the home garden than the little Delicata,
and Fordhook. Vegetable Marrow is a fine English
sort that does well in almost all localities. The best
of the newer large-vined sorts is The Delicious. It
is of finer quality than the well known Hubbard.
For earliest use, try a few plants of White or Yellow
Bush Scalloped. They are not so good in quality as
either Delicata or Fordhook, which are ready within
a week or so later. The latter are also excellent
keepers and can be had, by starting plants early and
by careful storing, almost from June to June.

Tomato :—If you have a really hated enemy, give
him a dozen seed catalogues and ask him to select
for you the best four tomatoes. But unless you
want to become criminally involved, send his doctor
around the next morning. A few years ago I tried
over forty kinds. A good many have been intro-
duced since, some of which I have tried. I am pre-
pared to make the following statements: Earliana is
the earliest quality tomato, for light warm soils, that
I have ever grown; Chalk’s Jewel, the earliest for

156 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

heavier soils (Bonny Best Early resembles it);
Matchless is a splendid main-crop sort ; Ponderosa is
the biggest and best quality—but it likes to split.
There is one more sort, which I have tried one year
only, so do not accept my opinion as conclusive. It
is the result of a cross between Ponderosa and
Dwarf Champion—one of the strongest-growing
sorts. It is called Dwarf Giant. The fruits are tre-
mendous in size and in quality unsurpassed by any.
The vine is very healthy, strong and stocky. I be-
lieve this new tomato will become the standard main
crop for the home garden. By all means try it. And
that is a good deal to say for a novelty in its sec-
ond year!

Turnip:—The earliest turnip of good quality is
the White Milan. There are several others of the
white-fleshed sorts, but I have never found them
equal in quality for table to the yellow sorts. Of
these, Golden Ball (or Orange Jelly) is the best
quality. Petrowski is a different and distinct sort, of
very early maturity and of especially fine quality.
If you have room for but one sort in your home
garden, plant this for early, and a month later for
main crop.

Do not fail to try some of this year’s novelties.
Half the fun of gardening is in the experimenting.
But when you are testing out the new things in

comparison with the old, just take a few plants of
i

VEGETABLE VARIETIES 157

the latter and give them the same extra care and
attention. Very often the reputation of a novelty is
built upon the fact that in growing it on trial the
gardener has given it unusual care and the best soil
and location at his command. Be fair to the stand-
ards—and very often they will surprise you fully as
much as the novelties.

CHAPTER XIII

INSECTS AND DISEASES AND METHODS OF FIGHTING

THEM

than the more usual one, “‘remedies,’’ because

by both experience and study I am more and
more convinced that so long as the commercial
fields of agriculture remain in the present absolutely
unorganized condition, and so long as the gardener
—home or otherwise—who cares to be neglectful
and thus become a breeder of all sorts of plant pests,
is allowed so to do—just so long we can achieve no
remedy worth the name. When speaking of a
remedy in this connection we very frequently are
putting the cart before the horse, and refer to some
means of prevention. Prevention is not only the
best, but often the only cure. This the gardener
should always remember.

This subject of plant enemies has not yet received
the attention from scientific investigators which
other branches of horticulture have, and it is alto-
gether somewhat complicated.

(158)

I USE the term “methods of fighting’ rather

INSECTS AND DISEASES 159

Before taking up the various insects and diseases
the following analysis and list will enable the reader
to get a general comprehension of the whole matter.

Plant enemies are of two kinds—(1) insects, and
(2) diseases. The former are of two kinds, (a)
insects which chew or eat the leaves or fruit; (b) in-
sects which suck the juices therefrom. The diseases
also are of two kinds—(a) those which result from
the attack of some fungus, or germ; (b) those which
attack the whole organism of the plant and are
termed “constitutional.” Concerning these latter
practically nothing is known.

It will be seen at once, of course, that the
remedy to be used must depend upon the nature of
the enemy to be fought. We can therefore reduce
the matter to a simple classification, as follows:

PLANT ENEMIES

Insects Class
Patines 2G alata thera od eocee a
Sucking wis cewsantesetien b
Diseases
Parasitical acci geek vosweaees c

Constitutional ............ d

160 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

REMEDIES
Mechanical Number
Covered boxes .......... I
Collatsvcrnscivreees saree 2
Cards sitet tek Betis seers 3
Destructive
Hand-picking ........... 4
Kerosene emulsion ....... 5
Whale-oil soap .......... 6
Miscible oils ............ 7
Tobacco dust ..........- 8
Carbolic acid emulsion.... 9
Corrosive sublimate ..... 10
Bordeaux mixture ....... II
Poisonous
Paris green .........005- 12
Arsenate of lead ......... 13
Hellebore .............. 14

It will be of some assistance, particularly as re-
gards quick reference, to give the following table,
which shows at a glance the method of fighting any
enemy, the presence of which is known or antici-
pated.

While this may seem quite a formidable list, in
practice many of these pests will not appear, and
under ordinary circumstances the following six
remedies out of those mentioned will suffice to keep
them all in check, if used in time: Covered boxes,

INsEcts AND DISEASES

161

hand-picking, kerosene emulsion, tobacco dust, Bor-
deaux mixture, arsenate of lead.

ENEMY ATTACKING Crass REMEDY

Aphis (Plant-lice).| Cabbage and other aed ore
cially under glass. . : b 5, 8, 6
Asparagus-beetle. .| Asparagus. .............200006 a 13,12
Asparagus rust ...] Asparagus. ............-000-5- c Ir
Black-rot........ Cabbage and the cabbage group.. d Io
Borers. 72.2.+ se0.0 | SaQuash ss ssc insseccredeseeces b 4
Caterpillars ......| Cabbage group................ a 12,14, 4
Caterpillars ...... CDOMA CO vies love: sc a0.o, cia stereo evened a 4
Club-root ....... Cabbage group............-.-. c (page 163)
Cucumber-beetle
(Striped beetle)] Cucumber and vines............ a 1, 11,8

Cucumber-wilt ...| Cucumber and vines.. a c 1r
Cucumber-blight. .| Cucumber, muskmelon, cabbage. c Ir
Cut-worm........ Cabbage, tomato, onion. res a 2, 4,12, 13
Flea-beetle....... Potato, turnip, radish.......... a 11,5
Potato-beetle..... Potato and Sees ea. Mary ert a 12,13,4
Potato-blight..... Potato. . ELEN Gale ee oho c 11
Potato-scab ..... Potato (tubers). bee Ade ca eaorsaent ote caides c to
Root-maggot.....| Radish, onion, cabbage, melons..| a 4,3,
Squash-bug...... ‘| Squash, pumpkin. ies ses ba eee b 4, 8, 12,
White-fly........ Plants; cucumber, tomato...... b 6,5, 8
White-grub...... Plants: sasind se Sou Rea aie Cas Sees a 4

However, that the home gardener may be pre-
pared to meet any contingency, I shall take up in
brief detail the plant enemies mentioned and the
remedies suggested.

Aphis:—The small, soft green plant-lice.

They

seldom attack healthy growing plants in the field,
but are hard to keep off under glass. If once estab-

11

162 HomME VEGETABLE GARDENING

lished it will take several applications to get rid of
them. Use kerosene or soap emulsion, or tobacco
dust. There are also several trade-marked prepara-
tions that are good. Aphine, which may be had of
any seed house, has proved very effective in my own
work, and it is the pleasantest to use that I have so
far found.

Asparagus-beetle:—This pest will give little trou-
ble on cleanly cultivated patches. Thorough work
with arsenate of lead (1 to 25) will take care of it.

Black-rot:—This affects the cabbage group, pre-
venting heading, by falling of the leaves. In clean,
thoroughly limed soil, with proper rotations, it is
not likely to appear. The seed may be soaked, in
cases where the disease has appeared previously, for
fifteeen minutes in a pint of water in which one of
the corrosive sublimate tablets which are sold at
drug stores is dissolved.

Borers:—This borer is a flattish, white grub,
which penetrates the main stem of squash or other
vines near the ground and seems to sap the strength
of the plant, even when the vines have attained a
length of ten feet or more. His presence is first
made evident by the wilting of the leaves during
the noonday heat. Coal ashes mixed with the ma-
nure in the hill, is claimed to be a preventative. An-
other is to plant some early squash between the
hills prepared for the winter crop, and not to plant

INSECTS AND DISEASES 163

the latter until as late as possible. The early squash
vines, which act as a trap, are pulled and burned.

Last season almost half the vines in one of my
pieces were attacked after many of the squashes
were large enough to eat. With a little practice I
was able to locate the borer’s exact position, shown
by a spot in the stalk where the flesh was soft, and
of a slightly different color. With a thin, sharp
knife-blade the vines were carefully slit lengthwise
on this spot, the borer extracted and killed and the
vines in almost every instance speedily recovered.
‘Another method is to root the vines by heaping
moist earth over several of the leaf joints, when the
vines have attained sufficient length.

Cabbage-caterpillar:—This small green worm,
which hatches upon the leaves and in the forming
heads of cabbage and other vegetables of the cab-
bage group, comes from the eggs laid by the com-
mon white or yellow butterfly of early spring. Pick
off all that are visible, and spray with kerosene emul-.
sion if the heads have not begun to form. If they
have, use hellebore instead. The caterpillar or worm
of tomatoes is a large green voracious one, men-
tioned on page 139. Hand-picking is the only rem-
edy.

Club-root:—This is a parasitical disease attacking
the cabbage group, especially in ground where these
crops succeed each other. Lime both soil and seed-

164 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

bed—at least the fall before planting, unless using a
special agricultural lime. The crop infested is some-
times carried through by giving a special dressing
of nitrate of soda, guano or other quick-acting pow-
erful fertilizer, and hilled high with moist earth, thus
giving a special stimulation and encouraging the
formation of new roots. While this does not in any
way cure the diseasé¢, it helps the crop to withstand
its attack. When planting again be sure to use crop
rotation and to set plants not grown in infested soil.

Cucumber-beetle:—This is the small, black-and-
yellow-striped beetle which attacks cucumbers and
other vines and, as it multiplies rapidly and does a
great deal of damage before the results show, they
must be attended to immediately upon appearance.
The vine should be protected with screens until they
crowd the frames, which should be put in place be-
fore the beetles put in an appearance. If the beetles
are still in evidence when the vines get so large that
the screens must be removed, keep sprayed with Bor-
deaux mixture. Plaster, or fine ashes, sifted on the
vines will also keep them off to some extent, by keep-
ing the leaves covered.

Cucumber-wilt:—This condition accompanies the
presence of the striped beetle, although supposed not
to be directly caused by it. The only remedy is to
get rid of the beetles as above, ard to collect and
burn every wilted leaf or plant.

INSECTS AND DISEASES 165

Cucumber-blight or Mildew is similar to that
which attacks muskmelons, the leaves turning yel-
low, dying in spots and finally drying up altogether.
Where there is reason to fear an attack of this dis-
ease, or upon the first appearance, spray thoroughly
with Bordeaux, 5-5-50, and repeat every ten days
or so. The spraying seems to be more effective on
cucumbers than on melons.

Cut-worm:—The cut-worm is perhaps the most
annoying of ail garden pests. Others do more
damage, but none is so exasperating. He works at
night, attacks the strongest, healthiest plants, and
is content simply to cut them off, seldom, apparently,
eating much or carrying away any of the sev-
ered leaves or stems, although occasionally I have
found such bits, especially small onion tops, dragged
off and partly into the soil. In small gardens the
quickest and best remedy is hand-picking. As the
worms work at night they may be found with a lan-
tern; or very early in the morning. In daytime by
digging about in the soil wherever a cut is found,
and by careful search, they can almost invariably be
turned out. As a preventive, and a supplement to
hand-picking, a poisoned bait should be used. This
is made by mixing bran with water until a “mash”
is made, to which is added a dusting of Paris green
or arsenate of lead, sprayed on thickly and thor-
oughly worked through the mass. This is distrib-

166 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

uted in small amounts—a tablespoonful or so to a
place along the row or near each hill or plant—just
as they are coming up or set out. Still another
method, where only a few plants are put out, is to
protect each by a collar of tin or tar paper.

Flea-beetle:—This small, black or striped hard-
shelled mite attacks potatoes and young cabbage,
radish and turnip plants. It is controlled by spray-
ing with kerosene emulsion or Bordeaux.

Potato-beetle:—The striped Colorado beetle,
which invariably finds the potato patch, no matter
how small or isolated. Paris green, dry or sprayed,
is the standard remedy. Arsenate of lead is now
largely used. On small plots hand-picking of old
bugs and destruction of eggs (which are laid on
under side of leaves) is quick and sure.

Potato-blight:—Both early and late forms of
blight are prevented by Bordeaux, 5-5-50, sprayed
every two weeks. Begin early—when plants are
about six inches high.

Potato-scab:—Plant on new ground; soak the
seed in solution prepared as directed under No. Io,
which see; allow no treated tubers to touch bags,
boxes, bins or soil where untreated ones have been
kept.

Root-maggot:—This is a small white grub, often
causing serious injury to radishes, onions and the
cabbage group. Liming the soil and rotation are

INSECTS AND DISEASES 167

the best preventives. Destroy all infested plants,
being sure to get the maggots when pulling them
up. The remaining plants should be treated with a
gill of strong caustic lime water, or solution of
muriate of potash poured about the root of each
plant, first removing an inch or so of earth. In place
of these solutions carbolic acid emulsion is some-
times used; or eight to ten drops of bisulphide of
carbon are dropped into a hole made near the roots
with the dibber and then covered in. Extra stimu-
lation, as directed for Club-root, will help carry the
plants through.

Squash-bug :—This is the large, black, flat “stink-
bug,” so destructive of squash and the other running
vines. Protection with frames, or hand-picking, are
the best home garden remedies. The old bugs may
be trapped under boards and by early vines. The
young bugs, or “sap-sucking nymphs,” are the ones
that do the real damage. Heavy tobacco dusting,
or kerosene emulsion will kill them.

White-fly:—This is the most troublesome under
glass, where it is controlled by fumigation, but occa-
sionally is troublesome on plants and tomato and
cucumber vines. The young are scab-like insects
and do the real damage. Spray with kerosene emul-
sion or whale-oil soap.

White-grub or muck-worm:—When lawns are in-
fested the sod must be taken up, the grubs destroyed

168 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

and new sward made. When the roots of single
plants are attacked, dig out, destroy the grubs and,
if the plant is not too much injured, reset.

The remedies given in the table on page 160 are
prepared as follows:

MECHANICAL REMEDIES

1.—Covered boxes:—These are usually made of
half-inch stuff, about eight inches high and covered
with mosquito netting, wire or “protecting cloth’—
the latter having the extra advantage of holding
warmth over night.

2.—Collars are made of old cans with the bot-
toms removed, cardboard or tarred paper, large
enough to go over the plant and an inch or so into
the ground.

3.—Cards are cut and fitted close around the stein
and for an inch or so upon the ground around it, to
prevent maggots going down the stem to the root.
Not much used.

DESTRUCTIVE REMEDIES

4.—Hand-picking is usually very effective, and if
performed as follows, not very disagreeable: Fasten
a small tin can securely to a wooden handle and fill
one-third full of water and kerosene; make a small
wooden paddle, with one straight edge and a rather
sharp point; by using this in the right hand and the

INSECTS AND DISEASES 169

pan in the left, the bugs may be quickly knocked off.
Be sure to destroy all eggs when hand-picking is
used.

5.—Kerosene emulsion is used in varying
strengths; for method of preparing, see page 221.

6 and 7.—For use of whale-oil soap and miscible
oils, see pages 216, 221.

8.—Tobacco dust:—This article varies greatly.
Most sorts are next to worthless, but a few of the
brands especially prepared for this work (and sold
usually at $3 per hundred pounds, which will last
two ordinary home gardens a whole season) are
very convenient to use, and effective. Apply with a
duster, like that described on page 39, Implements.

9.—Carbolic acid emulsion:—1 pint crude acid, I
Ib. soap and 1 gal. water. Dissolve the soap in hot
water, add balance of water and pump into an emul-
sion, as described for kerosene emulsion.

10.—Corrosive sublimate is used to destroy scab
on potatoes for seed by dissolving 1 oz. in 7 gals. of
water. The same result is obtained by soaking for
thirty minutes in a solution of commercial formalin,
at the rate of 1 gill to 15 gals. of water.

11.—-Bordeaux mixture :—See page 220.

POISONOUS REMEDIES

12.—Paris green:—This is the standard remedy
for eating-bugs and worms. With a modern dust-

170 HomME VEGETABLE GARDENING

ing machine it can be put on dry, early in the morn-
ing when the dew is still on. Sometimes it is mixed
with plaster. For tender plants easily burned by the
pure powder, and where dusting is not convenient, it
is mixed with water at the rate of 1 Ib. to 50 to 100
gals. and used as a spray. In mixing, make a paste
of equal quantities of the powder and quicklime, and
then mix thoroughly in the water. It must be kept
stirred up when using.

13.—Arsenate of lead:—This has two advantages
over Paris green: It will not burn the foliage and it
will stay on several times as long. Use from 4 to 10
Ibs. in 100 gals. of water; mix well and strain before
putting in sprayer. See also page 222.

14.—Hellebore:—A dry, white powder, used in
place of Nos. 12 or 13 on vegetables or fruit that is
soon to be eaten. For dusting, use 1 Ib. hellebore to
5 of plaster or flour. For watering or spraying, at
rate of 1 lb. to 12 gals. of water.

PRECAUTIONS

So much for what we can do in actual hand-to-
hand, or rather hand-to-mouth, conflict with the en-
emy. Very few remedies have ever proved entirely
successful, especially on crops covering any consid-
erable area. It will be far better, far easier and far
more effective to use the following means of pre-
caution against plant pest ravages: First, aim to

INSECTS AND DISEASES 171

have soil, food and plants that will produce a rapid,
robust growth without check. Such plants are sel-
dom attacked by any plant disease, and the foliage
does not seem to be so tempting to eating-insects ;
besides which, of course, the plants are much better
able to withstand their attack if they do come. Sec-
ond, give clean, frequent culture and keep the soil
busy. Do not have old weeds and refuse lying
around for insects and eggs to be sheltered by. Burn
all leaves, stems and other refuse from plants that
have been diseased. Do not let the ground lie idle,
but by continuous cropping keep the bugs, caterpil-
lars and eggs constantly rooted out and exposed to
their natural enemies. Third, practice crop rotation
(described on page 106). This is of special import-
ance where any root disease is developed. Fourth,
watch closely and constantly for the first appearance
of trouble. The old adages “eternal vigilance is
the price of peace,” and “a stitch in time saves nine,”
are nowhere more applicable than to this matter.
‘And last, and of extreme importance, be prepared to
act at once. Do not give the enemy an hour’s rest
after his presence is discovered. In almost every
case it is only by having time to multiply, that dam-
age amounting to anything will be done.

If you will keep on hand, ready for instant use,
a good hand-sprayer and a modern powder gun, a
few covered boxes, tobacco dust, arsenate of lead

172. Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

and materials for kerosene emulsion and Bordeaux
mixture, and are not afraid to resort to hand-pick-
ing when necessary, you will be able to cope with
all the plant enemies you are likely to encounter.
The slight expense necessary—considering that the
two implements mentioned will last for years with a
little care—will pay as handsome a dividend as any
garden investment you can make.

CHAPTER XIV,
HARVESTING AND STORING

T is a very common thing to allow the garden
vegetables not used to rot on the ground, or
in it. There is a great deal of unnecessary

waste in this respect, for a great many of the things
so neglected may just as well be carried into winter,
and will pay a very handsome dividend for the slight
trouble of gathering and storing them.

A good frost-proof, cool cellar is the best and
most convenient place in which to store the surplus
product of the home garden. But, lacking this, a
room partitioned off in the furnace cellar and well
ventilated, or a small empty room, preferably on
the north side of the house, that can be kept below
forty degrees most of the time, will serve excellently.
Or, some of the most bully vegetables, such as cab-
bage and the root crops, may be stored in a prepared
pit made in the garden itself.

As it is essential that such a pit be properly con-
structed, I shall describe one with sufficient detail
to enable the home gardener readily to construct it.

(173)

174. Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

Select a spot where water will not stand. Put the
vegetables in a triangular-shaped pile, the base three
or four feet wide, and as long as required. Sepa-
rate the different vegetables in this pile by stakes
about two feet higher than the top of the pile, and
label them. Then cover with a layer of clean straw
or bog hay, and over this four inches of soil, dug
up three feet back from the edges of the pile. This
work must be done late in the fall, as nearly as one
can judge just before lasting freezing begins, and
preferably on a cold morning when the ground is
just beginning to freeze; the object being to freeze
the partly earth covering at once, so that it will not
be washed or blown off. The vegetables must be
perfectly dry when stored; dig them a week or so
previous and keep them in an airy shed. As soon
as this first layer of earth is partly frozen, but before
it freezes through, put on another thick layer of
straw or hay and cover with twelve inches of earth,
keeping the pile as steep as possible ; a slightly clayey
soil, that may be beaten down firmly into shape with
a spade, being best. The pile should be made where
it will be sheltered from the sun as much as possible,
such as on the north side of a building. The disad-
vantage of the plan is, of course, that the vegetables
cannot be got at until the pile is opened up, in early
spring, or late if desired. Its two advantages are
that the vegetables stored will be kept in better con-

HARVESTING AND STORING 175

dition than in any cellar, and that cellar or house
room will be saved.

For storing small quantities of the roots, such as
carrots or beets, they are usually packed in boxes
or barrels and covered in with clean sand. Where
an upstairs room has to be used, swamp or sphagnum
moss may replace the sand. It makes an ideal pack-
ing medium, as it is much lighter and cleaner than
the sand. In many localities it may be had for the
gathering ; in others one may get it from a florist.

In storing vegetables of any kind, and by what-
ever method, see to it that: (1) They are always
clean, dry and sound. The smallest spot or bruise is
a danger center, which may spread destruction to
the lot.

(2) That the temperature, whatever required—in
most cases 33-38 degrees being best—is kept as even
as possible. .

(3) That the storage place is kept clean, dry (by
ventilation when needed) and sweet (by use of
whitewash and lime).

(4) That no rats or other rodents are playing
havoc with your treasures while you never suspect it.

So many of the vegetables can be kept, for either
part or all of the winter, that I shall take them up
in order, with brief directions. Many, such as green
beans, rhubarb, tomatoes, etc., which cannot be kept
in the ordinary ways, may be easily and cheaply

176 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

canned, and where one has a good cellar, it will
certainly pay to get a canning outfit and make use
of this method.

Beans:—Almost all the string and snap beans,
when dried in the pods, are excellent for cooking.
And any pods which have not been gathered in the
green state should be picked, as soon as dry (as wet
weather is likely to mould or sprout them), and
stored in a dry place, or spread on a bench in the
sun. They will keep, either shelled or in the dry
pods, for winter.

Beets:—In October, before the first hard frosts,
take up and store in a cool cellar, in clean, perfectly
dry sand, or in pits outside (see Cabbage) ; do not
cut off the long tap roots, nor the tops close enough
to cause any “bleeding.”

Brussels sprouts:—These are improved by freez-
ing, and may be used from the open garden until
December. If wanted later, store them with cab-
bage, or hang up the stalks in bunches in a cold
cellar.

Cabbage:—If only a few heads are to be stored,
a cool cellar will do. Even if where they will be
slightly frozen, they will not be injured, so long as
they do not freeze and thaw repeatedly. They
should not be taken in until there is danger of severe
freezing, as they will keep better, and a little frost
improves the flaver. For storing small quantities

HARVESTING AND STORING 177

outdoors, dig a trench, a foot or so deep, in a well
drained spot, wide enough to admit two heads side
by side. Pull up the cabbages, without removing
either stems or outer leaves, and store side by side,
head down, in the bottom of the trench. Now cover
over lightly with straw, meadow hay, or any refuse
which will keep the dirt from freezing to the cab-
bages, and then cover over the whole with earth,
to the depth of several inches, but allowing the top
of the roots to remain exposed, which will facilitate
digging them up as required. Do not bury the cab-
bage until as late as possible before severe freezing,
as a Spell of warm weather would rot it.

Carrots:—Treat in the same way as beets. They
will not be hurt by a slight freezing of the tops, be-
fore being dug, but care must be taken not to let the
roots become touched by frost.

Celery:—That which is to be used early is
blanched outside, by banking, as described in Chap-
ter XI, and as celery will stand a little freezing,
will be used directly from the garden. For the
portion to be kept over winter, provide boxes about
a foot wide, and nearly as deep as the celery is high.
Cover the bottoms of these boxes with two or three
inches of sand, and wet thoroughly. Upon this
stand the celery upright, and packed close together.
In taking up the celery for storing in this way, the
roots and whatever earth adheres to them are kept

12

178 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

on, not cut, as it is bought in the stores. The boxes
are then stored in a cellar, or other dark, dry, cold
place where the temperature will not go more than
five degrees below freezing. The celery will be ready
for use after Christmas. If a long succession is
wanted, store from the open two or three different
times, say at the end of October, first part of No-
vember and the latter part of November.

Cucumbers, Melons, Egg-plant:—While there is
no way of storing these for any great length of time
without recourse to artificial cold, they may be had
for some time by storing just before the first frosts
in a cool, dark cellar, care being taken in handling
the fruits to give them no bruises.

Onions:—If the onions got a good early start in
the spring, the tops will begin to die down by the
middle of August. As soon as the tops have turned
yellow and withered they should be pulled, on the
first clear dry day, and laid in windrows (three or
four rows in one), but not heaped up. They should
be turned over frequently, by hand or with a wooden
rake, and removed to a shed or barn floor as soon
as dry, where the tops can be cut off. Keep them
spread out as much as possible, and give them open
ventilation until danger of frost. Then store in a
dry place and keep as cool as possible without freez-
ing. A few barrels, with holes knocked in the sides,
will do well for a small quantity.

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HARVESTING AND STORING 179

Parsley:—Take up a few plants and keep in a
flower-pot or small box, in the kitchen window.

Parsnips:—These will stay in the ground with-
out injury all winter, but part of the crop may be
taken up late in the fall and stored with beets, car-
rots and turnips, to use while the ground is frozen.

Potatoes: —When the vines have died down and
the skin of the new potatoes has become somewhat
hardened, they can be dug and stored in a cool, dry
cellar at once. Be sure to give plenty of ventilation
until danger of frost. Keep from the light, as this
has the effect of making the potatoes bitter. If
there is any sign of rot among the tubers, do not
dig them up until it has stopped.

Squash and Pumpkins:—The proper conditions
for storing for winter will be indicated by the dry-
ing and shrinking of the stem. Cut them from the
vines, being careful never to break off the stem, tura
over, rub off the dirt and leave the under side ex-
posed to a few days’ sunlight. Then carry in a
spring wagon, or spring wheelbarrow, covered with
old bags or hay to keep from any bruises. Store in
the dryest part of the cellar, and if possible where
the temperature will not go below forty degrees.
Leave them on the vines in the field as late as possi-
ble, while escaping frosts.

Tomatoes:—Just before the first frosts are likely
to begin, pick all of the best of the unripened fruits.

180 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

Place part of these on clean straw in a coldframe,
giving pfotection, where they will gradually ripen
up. Place others, that are fully developed but not
ripe, in straw in the cellar. In this way fresh toma-
toes may frequently be had as late as Christmas.

Turnip:—These roots, if desired, can be stored
as are beets or carrots.

It is hard to retain our interest in a thing when
most of its usefulness has gone by. It is for that
reason, I suppose, that one sees so many forsaken
and weed-grown gardens every autumn, where in
the spring everything was neat and clean. But there
are two very excellent reasons why the vegetable
garden should not be so abandoned—to say nothing
of appearances! The first is that many vegetables
continue to grow until the heavy frosts come; and
the second, that the careless gardener who thus for-
sakes his post is sowing no end of trouble for him-
self for the coming year. For weeds left to them-
selves, even late in the fall, grow in the cool moist
weather with astonishing rapidity, and, almost be-
fore one realizes it, transform the well kept garden
into a ragged wilderness, where the intruders have
taken such a strong foothold that they cannot be
pulled up without tearing everything else with them.
So we let them go—and, left to themselves, they
accomplish their purpose in life, and leave upon the
ground an evenly distributed supply of plump ripe

HARVESTING AND STORING 181

seeds, which next spring will cause the perennial
exclamation, “Mercy, John, where did ail these
weeds come from?” And John replies, “I don’t
know; we kept the garden clean last summer. I
think there must be weed seeds in the fertilizer.”
Do not let up on your fight with weeds, for every
good vegetable that is left over can be put to some
use. Here and there in the garden will be a strip
that has gone by, and as it is now too late to plant,
we just let it go. Yet now is the time we should be
preparing all such spots for withstanding next sum-
mer’s drouth! You may remember how strongly
was emphasized the necessity for having abundant
humus (decayed vegetable matter) in the soil—how
it acts like a sponge to retain moisture and keep
things growing through the long, dry spells which
we seem to be sure of getting every summer. Sa
take thought for next year. Buy a bushel of rye,
and as fast as a spot in your garden can be cleaned
up, harrow, dig or rake it over, and sow the rye
on broadcast. Just enough loose surface dirt to
cover it and let it sprout, is all it asks. If the
weather is dry, and you can get a small roller, roll
it in to ensure better germination. It will come up
quickly ; it will keep out the weeds which otherwise
would be taking possession of the ground; it will
grow until the ground is frozen solid and begin
again with the first warm spring day; it will keep

182 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

your garden from washing out in heavy rains, and
capture and save from being washed away and
wasted a good deal of left-over plant food; it will
serve as just so much real manure for your garden;
it will improve the mechanical condition of the soil,
and it will add the important element of humus
to it.

In addition to these things, you will have an at-
tractive and luxuriant garden spot, instead of an
unsightly bare one. And in clearing off these
patches for rye, beware of waste. If you have hens,
or by chance a pig, they will relish old heads of
lettuce, old pea-vines, still green after the last pick-
ing, and the stumps and outer leaves of cabbage.
Even if you have not this means of utilizing your
garden’s by-products, do not let them go to waste.
Put everything into a square pile—old sods, weeds,
vegetable tops, refuse, dirt, leaves, lawn sweepings—
anything that will rot. Tread this pile down thor-
oughly ; give it a soaking once in a while if within
reach of the hose, and two or three turnings with a
fork. Next spring when you are looking for every
available pound of manure with which to enrich
your garden, this compost heap will stand you in
good stead.

Burn now your old pea-brush, tomato poles and
everything that is not worth keeping over for next
year. Do not leave these things lying around to

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HARVESTING AND STORING 183

harbor and protect eggs and insects and weed seeds.
If any bean-poles, stakes, trellises or supports seem
in good enough condition to serve another year, put
them under cover now; and see that all your tools
are picked up and put in one place, where you can
find them and overhaul them next February. As
soon as your surplus pole beans have dried in their
pods, take up poles and all and store in a dry place.
The beans may be taken off later at your leisure.

Be careful to cut down and burn (or put in the
compost heap) all weeds around your fences, and
the edges of your garden, before they ripen seed.

If the suggestions given are followed, the vegeta-
ble garden may be stretched far into the winter.
But do not rest at that. Begin to plan now for your
next year’s garden. Put a pile of dirt where it will
not be frozen, or dried out, when you want to use it
next February for your early seeds. If you have
no hotbed, fix the frames and get the sashes for one
now, so it will be ready to hand when the ground
is frozen solid and covered with snow next spring.
If you have made garden mistakes this year, be
planning now to rectify them next—without prog-
ress there is no fun in the game. Let next spring
find you with your plans all made, your materials
all on hand and a fixed resolution to have the best
garden you have ever had.

Part Three—Fruits and Berries

CHAPTER XV,

THE VARIETIES OF POME AND STONE FRUITS

ANY a home gardener who has succeeded
well with vegetables is, for some reason
or other, still fearsome about trying his

hand at growing his own fruit.

This is all a mistake; the initial expense is very
slight (fruit trees will cost but twenty-five to forty
cents each, and the berry bushes only about four
cents each), and the same amount of care that is
demanded by vegetables, if given to fruit, will pro-
duce apples, peaches, pears and berries far superior
to any that can be bought, especially in flavor.

I know a doctor in New York, a specialist, who
has attained prominence in his profession, and who
makes a large income; he tells me that there is noth-
ing in the city that hurts him so much as to have
to pay out a nickel whenever he wants an apple.
His boyhood home was on a Pennsylvania farm,
where apples were as free as water, and he cannot
get over the idea of their being one of Nature’s
gracious gifts, any more than he can overcome his

(184)

Fruit VARIETIES 185

hankering for that crisp, juicy, uncloying flavor of
a good apple, which is not quite equaled by the taste
of any other fruit.

And yet it is not the saving in expense, although
that is considerable, that makes the strongest argu-
ment for growing one’s own fruit. There are three
other reasons, each of more importance. First is
quality. The commercial grower cannot afford to
grow the very finest fruit. Many of the best varie-
ties are not large enough yielders to be available
for his use, and he cannot, on a large scale, so prune
and care for his trees that the individual fruits re-
ceive the greatest possible amount of sunshine and
thinning out—the personal care that is required for
the very best quality. Second, there is the beauty
and the value that well kept fruit trees add to a
place, no matter how small it is. An apple tree in
full bloom is one of the most beautiful pictures that
Nature ever paints; and if, through any train of
circumstances, it ever becomes advisable to sell or
rent the home, its desirability is greatly enhanced
by the few trees necessary to furnish the loveliness
of showering blossoms in spring, welcome shade in
summer and an abundance of delicious fruits
through autumn and winter. Then there is the fun
of doing it—of planting and caring for a few young
trees, which will reward your labors, in a cumula-
tive way, for many years to come.

186 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

But enough of reasons. If the call of the soil is
in your veins, if your fingers (and your brain) in
the springtime itch to have a part in earth’s ever-
wonderful renascence, if your lips part at the
thought of the white, firm, toothsome flesh of a
ripened-on-the-tree red apple—then you must have
a home orchard without delay.

And it is not a difficult task. Apples, pears and
the stone fruits, fortunately, are not very particular
about their soils. They take kindly to anything
between a sandy soil so loose as to be almost shift-
ing, and heavy clay. Even these soils can be made
available, but of course not without more work.
And you need little room to grow all the fruit your
family can possibly eat.

Time was, when to speak of an apple tree
brought to mind one of those old, moss-barked
giants that served as a carriage shed and a summer
dining-room, decorated with scythes and rope
swings, requiring the services of a forty-foot ladder
and a long-handled picker to gather the fruit. That
day is gone. In its stead have come the low-headed
standard and the dwarf forms. The new types
came as new institutions usually do, under protest.
The wise said they would never be practical—the
trees would not get large enough and teams could
not be driven under them. But the facts remained
that the low trees are more easily and thoroughly

Fruit VARIETIES 187

cared for; that they do not take up so much room;
that they are less exposed to high winds, and such
fruit as does fall is not injured; that the low limbs
shelter the roots and conserve moisture; and, above
all, that picking can be accomplished much more
easily and with less injury to fine, well ripened
fruit. The low-headed tree has come to stay.

If your space will allow, the low-headed stand-
ards will give you better satisfaction than the
dwarfs. They are longer-lived, they are healthier,
and they do not require nearly so much intensive
culture. On the other hand, the dwarfs may be
used where there is little or no room for the stand-
ards. If there is no other space available, they
may be put in the vegetable or flower garden, and
incidentally they are then sure of receiving some
of that special care which they need in the way of
fertilization and cultivation.

As I have said, any average soil will grow good
fruit. A gravelly loam, with a gravel subsoil, is the
ideal. Do not think from this, however, that all
you have to do is buy a few trees from a nursery
agent, stick them in the ground and from your neg-
ligence reap the rewards that follow only intelligent
industry. The soil is but the raw material which
work and care alone can transform, through the
medium of the growing tree, into the desired result
of a cellar well stored each autumn with fruit.

188 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

Fruit trees have one big advantage over vegeta-
bles—the ground can be prepared for them while
they are growing. If the soil will grow a crop of
clover it is already in good shape to furnish the
trees with food at once. If not, manure or fer-
tilizers may be applied, and clover or other green
crops turned under during the first two or three
yeas of the trees’ growth, as will be described later.

The first thing to consider, when you have de-
cided to plant, is the location you will give your
trees. Plan to have pears, plums, cherries and
peaches, as well as apples. For any of these the
soil, of whatever nature, must be well drained. If
not naturally, then tile or other artificial drainage
must be provided. For only a few trees it would
probably answer the purpose to dig out large holes
and fill in a foot or eighteen inches at the bottom
with small stone, covered with gravel or screened
coal-cinders. My own land has a gravelly subsoil
and I have not had to drain. Then with the apples,
and especially with the peaches, a too-sheltered
slope to the south is likely to start the flower buds
prematurely in spring, only to result in total crop
loss from late frosts. The diagram on the next page
suggests an arrangement which may be adapted to
individual needs. One may see from it that the
apples are placed to the north, where they will to
some extent shelter the rest of the grounds; the

Fruit VARIETIES 189

peaches where they will not be coddled; the pears,
which may be had upon quince stock, where they
will not shade the vegetable garden; the cherries,

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A suggested arrangement of fruit
trees on the small place: 1—
Apples, 2—Peaches, 3—Cherries,
4—Quinces, 5—Plums, 6—Pears

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which are the
most ornamental,
where they may
lend a decorative
effect.

And now, hav-
ing decided that
we can—and will
—grow good
fruit, and having
in mind sugges-
tions that will en-
able us to go out
to-morrow morn-
ing and, with an
armful of stakes,
mark out the loca-
tions, the next con-
sideration should
be the all-import-
ant question of

what varieties are most successfully grown on the

small place.

The following selections are made with the home
fruit garden, not the commercial orchard, in mind.

190 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

While they are all “tried and true” sorts, succeeding
generally in the northeast, New England and west-
ern fruit sections, remember that fruits, as a rule,
though not so particular as vegetables about soil,
seem much more so about locality. I would sug-
gest, therefore, submitting your list, before buying,
to your State Experiment Station. You are taxed
for its support; get some direct result from it.
There they will be glad to advise you, and are in
the best position to help you get started properly.
Above all, do not buy from the traveling nursery
agent, with his grip full of wonderful lithographs
of new and unheard-of novelties. Get the catalogue
of several reliable nurseries, take standard varieties
about which you know, and buy direct, Several
years ago I had the opportunity to go carefully over
one of the largest fruit nurseries in the country.
Every care and precaution was taken to grow fine,
healthy, young trees. The president told me that
they sold thousands every year to smaller concerns,
to be resold again through field and local agents.
Yet they do an enormous retail business them-
selves, and of course their own customers get the
best trees.

The following are listed, as nearly as I can judge,
in the order of their popularity, but as many of the
best are not valuable commercially, they are little
known. Whenever you find a particularly good
apple or pear, try to trace it, and add it to your list.

i yi . : # fi We

Peach trees come into bearimg in three years, so they are
frequently used as “fillers” between the rows of slower trees

#2e

Two crops on the same ground at the same time—fruit and
poultry. The chickens help to keep in check the devastating
hordes of insects

Cut out

cross one another

Prune trees to secure an open center.

all limbs that

FRuIT VARIETIES IgI

APPLES

Without any question, the apple is far and away
the most valuable fruit, both because of its greater
scope of usefulness and its longer season—the last
of the winter’s Russets are still juicy and firm when
the first Early Harvests and Red Astrachans are
tempting the “young idea’’ to experiment with colic.
Plant but a small proportion of early varieties, for
the late ones are better. Out of a dozen trees, I
would put in one early, three fall, and the rest win-
ter sorts.

Among the summer apples are several deserving
special mention: Yellow Transparent is the earliest.
It is an old favorite and one of the most easily
grown of all apples. Its color is indicated by the
name, and it is a fair eating-apple and a very good
cooker. Red Astrachan, another first early, is not
quite so good for cooking, but is a delicious eating-
apple of good size. An apple of more recent intro-
duction and extremely hardy (hailing first from
Russia), and already replacing the above sorts, is
Livland (Livland Raspberry). The tree is of good
form, very vigorous and healthy. The fruit is ready
almost as soon as Yellow Transparent, and is of
much better quality for eating. In appearance it is
exceptionally handsome, being of good size, regular
form and having those beautiful red shades found
almost exclusively in the later apples. The flesh is

192 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

bright white, reddish sub-skin, tender and of an
agreeable sourish flavor. Another good early is
Chenango (Chenango Strawberry). It is not so
well known, nor so much appreciated as it should
be, for two of its characteristics have mitigated
against its commercial use, and these same char-
acteristics add to its value in a home orchard. First,
it does not attain a very large size; and second, it
is a “successive” ripener, the maturing of its fruits
being stretched throughout September. In shape
it is oblong, not very regular; in color, yellow un-
derground, with attractive red, irregular stripes
overlaid. It is essentially an eating-apple, being too
mild for cooking purposes.

Among the autumn group my preference is Por-
ter, for an early sort, handsome and regular in
shape, and of an attractive ripe yellow color. I
remember how the first windfalls from the two trees
in our orchard used to be prized in the daily hunts
after school, and very often, when no one was look-
ing from the house, the force of gravity seemed to
have a strangely selective action in the case of the
biggest fruits. Gravenstein is another early, well
and favorably known. For, late autumn sorts,
McIntosh Red is without an equal. The color is
one of the most tempting reds of any apple grown,
shading to dark velvet, overspread with a delicate
bloom, in form remarkably even and round. Its

FRuiIT VARIETIES 193

quality is fully up to its appearance. The white,
crisp-breaking flesh, most aromatic, deliciously sub-
acid, makes it ideal for eating. A neighbor of mine
sold $406 worth of fruit from twenty trees to one
dealer. For such a splendid apple McIntosh is re-
markably hardy and vigorous, succeeding over a
very wide territory, and climate severe enough to
kill many of the other newer varieties. The
Fameuse (widely known as the Snow) is an ex-
cellent variety for northern sections. It resembles
the McIntosh, which some claim to be derived from
it. Fall Pippin, Pound Sweet and Twenty Ounce,
are other popular late autumns.

In the winter section, Baldwin, which is too well
known to need describing, is the leading commer-
cial variety in many apple districts, and it is a good
variety for home growing on account of its hardi-
ness and good cooking and keeping qualities; but
for the home orchard, it is far surpassed in quality
by several others. In northern sections, down to
the corn line, Northern Spy is a great favorite. It
is a large, roundish apple, with thin, tender, glossy
skin, light to deep carmine over light yellow, and
an excellent keeper. In sections to which it is
adapted it is a particularly vigorous, compact, up-
right grower. Jonathan is another splendid sort,
with a wider range of conditions favorable for
growth. It is, however, not a strong-growing tree

13

194 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

and is somewhat uncertain in maturing its fruit,
which is a bright, clear red of distinctive flavor. It
likes a soil with more clay than do most apples.
In the Middle West and Middle South, Grimes
(Golden) has made a great local reputation in many
sections, although in others it has not done well
at all.

The Spitzenberg (Esopus) is very near the top
of the list of all late eating-apples, being at its prime
about December. It is another handsome yellow-
covered red apple, with flesh slightly yellowish, but
very good to the taste. The tree, unfortunately, is
not a robust grower, being especially weak in its
earlier stages, but with good cultivation it will not
fail to reward the grower for any extra care it may
have required.

These, and the other notable varieties, which
there is not room here to describe, make up the
following list, from which the planter should select
according to locality:

Earliest or Summer:—Early Harvest, Yellow
Transparent, Red Astrachan, Benoni (new), Che-
nango, Sweet Bough, Williams’ Favorite, Early
Strawberry, Livland Raspberry.

Early Autumn:—Alexander, Duchess, Porter,
Gravenstein, McIntosh Red.

Late Autumn:—Jefferies, Fameuse (Snow),
Maiden’s Blush, Wealthy, Fall Pippin, Pound

FRuIT VARIETIES 195

Sweet, Twenty Ounce, Cox Orange, Hubbardston.
Winter:—Baldwin, Rhode Island Greening,
Northwestern Greening, Jonathan, Northern Spy,
Yellow, Swaar, Delicious, Wagener, King, Esopus,
Spitzenberg, Yellow Bellflower, Winter Banana,
Seek-no-further, Talman Sweet, Roxbury Russett,
King David, Stayman’s Winesap, Wolf River.

PEARS

Pears are more particular than apples in the mat-
ter of being adapted to sections and soils. Submit
your list to your State Experiment Station before
ordering trees. Many of the standard sorts may
be had where a low-growing, spreading tree is
desired (for instance, quince-stock pears might be
used to change places with the plums in the diagram
on page 189). Varieties suitable for this method
are listed below. They are given approximately in
the order of the ripening:

Wilder: Early August, medium in size, light yel-
low, excellent quality. Does not rot at the core,
as so many early pears are liable to do.

Margaret: Oblong, greenish, yellow to dull red.

Clapp Favorite: Very large, yellow pear. A
great bearer and good keeper—where the children
cannot get at it.

Howell: A little later than the foregoing; large,
bright yellow, strong-growing tree and big bearer.

196 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

Duchesse d’Angouleme: Large greenish yellow,
sometimes reaching huge size; will average better
than three-quarters of a pound. The quality, despite
its size, is splendid.

Seckel: Small in size, but renowned for exquisite
flavor—being probably the most universally ad-
mired of all.

Beurre Superfine : October, medium size, excellent
quality.

Bartlett: The best known of all pears, and a uni-
versal favorite. Succeeds in nearly all sections.

Anjou: One of the best keepers, and very pro-
ductive. One of the best in flavor, rich and vinous.

For trees of the standard type the following are
worthy of note:

Congress (Souvenir du C.): A very large sum-
mer sort. Handsome.

Belle Lucrative: September to October.

Winter Nelis: Medium size, but of excellent
quality and the longest keeper.

Kieffer: Very popular for its productiveness,
strength of growth and exceptional quality of fruit
for canging and preserving. Large fruit, if kept
thinned. Should have a place in every home
garden.

Josephine de Malines: Not a great yielder but
of the very highest quality, being of the finest tex-
ture and tempting aroma.

Fruit VARIETIES 197

PEACHES

Success with peaches also will depend largely
upon getting varieties adapted to climate. The
white-fleshed type is the hardiest and best for eat-
ing ; and the free-stones are for most purposes, espe-
cially in the home garden, more desirable than the
“clings.”

Greensboro is the best early variety. Crawford
is a universal favorite and goes well over a wide
range of soil and climate. Champion is one of the
best quality peaches and exceptionally hardy. El-
berta, Ray, and Hague are other excellent sorts.
Mayflower is the earliest sort yet introduced.

PLUMS

The available plums are of three classes—the na-
tives, Europeans and Japans; the natives are the
longest-lived, hardier in tree and blossom, and
heavier bearers.

The best early is Milton; brilliant red, yellow and
juicy flesh. Wildgoose and Whitaker are good
seconds. Mrs. Cleveland is a later and larger sort,
of finer quality. Three late-ripening plums of the
finest quality, but not such prolific yielders, are
Wayland, Benson and Reed, and where there is
room for only a few trees, these will be best. They
will need one tree of Newman or Prairie Flower

198 HoMmME VEGETABLE GARDENING

with them to assure setting of the fruit. Of the
Europeans, use Reine Claude (the best), Brad-
shaw or Shropshire. Damson is also good. The
Japanese varieties should go on high ground and
be thinned, especially during their first years. My
first experience with Japanese plums convinced me
that I had solved the plum problem; they bore loads
of fruit, and were free from disease. That was five
years ago. Last spring the last one was cut and
burned. Had they been planted at the top of a
small hill, instead of at the bottom, as they were,
and restricted in their bearing, I know from later
experience that they would still be producing fruit.
The most satisfactory varieties of the Japanese type
are Abundance and Red June. Burbank is also
highly recommended,

CHERRIES

Cherries have one advantage over the other fruits
—they give quicker returns. But, as far as my ex-
perience goes, they are not as long-lived. The sour
type is hardier, at least north of New Jersey, than
the sweet. It will probably pay to try a few of the
new and highly recommended varieties. Of the
established sorts Early Richmond is a good early,
to be followed by Montmorency and English
Morello.

Fruit VARIETIES 199

Windsor is a good sweet cherry, as are also
Black Tartarian, Sox, Wood and Yellow Spanish.

All the varieties mentioned above are proved
sorts. But the lists are being added to constantly,
and where there is a novelty strongly recommended
by a reliable nurseryman it will often pay to try
it out—on a very small scale at first.

CHAPTER XVI
PLANTING: CULTIVATION : FILLER CROPS

S the pedigree and the quality of the stock
you plant will have a great deal to do with
the success or failure of your adventure in

orcharding, even on a very small scale, it is im-
portant to get the best trees you can, anywhere, at
any price. But do not jump to the conclusion that
the most costly trees will be the best. From relia-
ble nurserymen, selling direct by mail, you can get
good trees at very reasonable prices.

As a general thing you will succeed best if you
have nothing to do with the perennial “tree agent.”
He may represent a good firm; you may get your
trees on time; he may have a novelty as good as the
standard sorts; but you are taking three very great
chances in assuming so. But, leaving these ques-
tions aside, there is no particular reason why you
should help pay his traveling expenses and the
printing bills for his lithographs (“made from
actual photographs” or “painted from nature,” of
course!) when you can get the best trees to be had,

(200)

Fruit CULTIVATION 201

direct from the soil in which they are grown, at the
lowest prices, by ordering through the mail. Or,
better still, if the nursery is not too far away, take
half a day off and select them in person. If you
want to help the agent along present him with the
amount of his commission, but get your trees direct
from some large reliable nursery.

Well grown nursery stock will stand much abuse,
but it will not be at all improved by it. Do not
let yours stand around in the sun and wind, waiting
until you get a chance to set it out. As soon as you
get it home from the express office, unpack it and
“heel it in,” in moist, but not wet, ground; if under
a shed, so much the better. Dig out a narrow trench
and pack it in as thick as it will go, at an angle of
forty-five degrees to the natural position when
growing. So stored, it will keep a long time in
cold weather, only be careful that no rats, mice, or
rabbits reach it.

Do not, however, depend upon this knowledge to
the extent of letting all your preparations for plant-
ing go until your stock is on hand. Be ready to
set it the day it arrives, if possible.

PLANTING

Planting can be done in either spring or fall. As
a general rule, north of Philadelphia and St. Louis,
spring planting will be best; south of that, fall

202 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

planting. Where there is apt to be severe freezing,
“heaving,” caused by the alternate freezing and
thawing; injury to the newly set roots from too se-
vere cold; and, in some western sections, “‘sun-
scald” of the bark, are three injuries which may
result. If trees are planted in the fall in cold sec-
tions, a low mound of earth, six to twelve inches
high, should be left during the winter about each,
and leveled down in the spring. If set in the spring,
where hot, dry weather is apt to follow, they should
be thoroughly mulched with litter, straw or coarse
manure, to preserve moisture—care being taken,
however, against field mice and other rodents.

The trees may either be set in their permanent
positions as soon as bought, or grown in “nursery
rows” by the purchaser for one or two years after
being purchased. In the former case, it will be the
best policy to get the strongest, straightest two-year
stock you can find, even if they cost ten or fifteen
cents apiece more than the ‘‘mediums.” The former
method is the usual one, but the latter has so many
advantages that I give it the emphasis of a separate
paragraph, and urge every prospective planter to
consider it carefully.

In the first place, then, you get your trees a little
cheaper. If you purchase for nursery row planting,
six-foot to seven-foot two-year-old apple trees, of
the standard sorts, should cost you about thirty

’ Fruit CULTIVATION 203

cents each; one-year “buds,” six feet and branched,
five to ten cents less. This gain, however, is not an
important one—there are four others, each of which
makes it worth while to give the method a trial.
First, the trees being all together, and in a con-
venient place, the chances are a hundred to one that
you will give them better attention in the way of
spraying, pruning and cultivating—all extremely
important in the first year’s growth. Second, with
the year gained for extra preparation of the soil
where they are to be placed permanently, you can
make conditions just right for them to take hold at
once and thrive as they could not do otherwise.
Third, the shock of transplanting will be much less
than when they are shipped from a distance—they
will have made an additional growth of dense, short
roots and they will have become acclimated.
Fourth, you will not have wasted space and time
with any backward black sheep among the lot, as
these should be discarded at the second planting.
And then there is one further reason, psychological
perhaps, but none the less important; you will watch
these little trees, which are largely the result of
your own labor and care, when set in their perma-
nent positions, much more carefully than you would
those direct from the nursery. I know, both from
experience and observation, how many thrifty
young trees in the home orchard are done to an un-

204 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

timely death by children, careless workmen, and
other animals.

So if you can put a twelve-month curb on your
impatience, get one-year trees and set them out in
a straight row right in your vegetable garden where
they will take up very little room. Keep them culti-
vated just as thoroughly as the rest of your growing
things. Melons, or beans, or almost any low-
growing vegetable can be grown close beside them.

If you want your garden to pay for your whole
lot of fruit trees this season dig up a hole about!
three feet in diameter wherever a tree is to go per-
manently. Cut the sod up fine and work in four
or five good forkfuls of well rotted manure, and on
these places, when it is warm enough, plant a hill
of lima pole-beans—the new sort named Giant-
podded Pole Lima is the best I have yet seen. Place
a stout pole, eight to ten feet high, firmly in each
hole. Good lima beans are always in demand, and
bring high prices.

Let us suppose that your trees are at hand, either
direct from the nursery or growing in the garden.
You have selected, if possible, a moist, gravelly
loam on a slope or slight elevation, where it is nat-
urally and perfectly drained. Good soil drainage
is imperative. Coarse gravel in the bottom of the
planting hole will help out temporarily. If the land
is in clover sod, it will have the ideal preparation,

Fruit CULTIVATION 205

especially if you can grow a patch of potatoes or
corn on it one year, while your trees are getting
further growth. In such land the holes will not
have to be prepared. If, however, you are not
fortunate enough to be able to devote such a space
to fruit trees, and in order to have them at all must
place them along your wall or scattered through
the grounds (as suggested in the diagram, page
189), you can still give them an excellent start by
enriching the soil in spots beforehand, as suggested
above in growing lima beans. In the event of
finding even this last way inapplicable to your land,
the following method will make success certain:
Dig out holes three to six feet in diameter (if the
soil is very hard, the larger dimension), and twelve
to eighteen inches deep. Mix thoroughly with the
excavated soil a good barrowful of the oldest, finest
manure you can get, combined with about one-
fourth or one-fifth its weight of South Carolina
rock: (or acid phosphate, if you cannot get the
rock). It is a good plan to compost the manure
and rock in advance, or use the rock as an absorbent
in the stable. Fill in the hole again, leaving room
in the center to: set the tree without bending or
cramping any roots. Where any of these are in-
jured or bruised, cut them off clean at the injured
spot with a sharp knife. Shorten any that are long
and straggling about one-third to one-half their

206 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

length. Properly grown stock should not be in any
such condition.

Remember that a well planted tree will give more
fruit in the first ten years than three trees carelessly
put in. Get the tree so that it will be one to three
inches deeper in the soil than when growing in the
nursery. Work the soil in firmly about the roots
with the fingers or a blunt wooden “tamper’’; do
not be afraid to use your feet. When the roots are
well covered, firm the tree in by putting all your
weight upon the soil around it. See that it is
planted straight, and if the “whip,” or small trunk,
is not straight stake it, and tie it with rye straw,
raffia or strips of old cloth—never string or wire.
If the soil is very dry, water the root copiously
while planting until the soil is about half filled in,
never on the surface, as that is likely to cause a
crust to form and keep out the air so necessary to
healthy growth.

Prune back the “leader” of the tree—the top
above the first lateral branches, about one-half.
Peach trees should be cut back more severely. Fur-
ther information in regard to pruning, and the dif-
ferent needs of the various fruits in regard to this
important matter, will be given in the next chapter.

SETTING

Standard apple trees, fully grown, will require

Fruit CULTIVATION 207

thirty to forty-five feet of space between them each
way. It takes, however, ten or twelve years after
the trees are set before all of this space is needed.
A system of “fillers,” or inter-planting, has come
into use as a result of this, which will give at least
one hundred per cent. more fruit for the first ten
years. Small-growing standards, standard varieties
on dwarf stock, and also peaches, are used for this
purpose in commercial orchards. But the principle
may be applied with equally good results to the
home orchard, or even to the planting of a few scat-
tered trees. The standard dwarfs give good satisfac-
tion as permanent fillers. Where space is very lim-
ited, or the fruit must go into the garden, they may
be used in place of the standard sorts altogether.
The dwarf trees are, as a rule, not so long-lived as
the standards, and to do their best, need more care
in fertilizing and manuring; but the fruit is just as
good; just as much, or more, can be grown on the
same area; and the trees come into bearing two to
three years sooner. They cost less to begin with
and are also easier to care for, in spraying and
pruning and in picking the fruit.

CULTIVATION

The home orcnard, to give the very finest quality
of fruit, must be given careful and thorough culti-
vation. In the case of scattered trees, where it is

208 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

not practicable to use a horse, this can be given by
working a space four to six feet wide about each
tree. Every spring the soil should be loosened up,
with the cultivator or fork, as the case may be, and
kept stirred during the early part of the summer.
Unless the soil is rich, a fertilizer, high in potash
and not too high in nitrogen, should be given in the
spring. Manure and phosphate rock, as suggested
above, is as good as any. In case the foliage is
not a deep healthy green, apply a few handfuls of
nitrate of soda, working it into the soil just before
a rain, around each tree.

About August Ist the cultivation should be dis-
continued, and some ‘‘cover crop” sown. Buckwheat
and crimson clover is a good combination; as the
former makes a rapid growth it will form, if rolled
down just as the apples are ripening, a soft cushion
upon which the windfalls may drop without injury,
and will furnish enough protection to the crimson
clover to carry it through most winters, even in cold
climates.

In addition to the filler crops, where the ground
is to be cultivated by horse, potatoes may be grown
between the rows of trees; or fine hills of melons
or squash may be grown around scattered trees,
thus, incidentally, saving a great deal of space in the
vegetable garden. Or why not grow a few extra
fancy strawberries in the well cultivated spots about

FRUIT CULTIVATION 209

these trees? Neither they nor the trees want the
ground too rich, especially in nitrogen, and condi-
tions suiting the one would be just right for the
others.

It may seem to the beginner that fruit-growing,
with all these things to keep in mind, is a difficult
task. But it is not. I think I am perfectly safe in
saying that the rewards from nothing else he can
plant and care for are as certain, and surely none
are more satisfactory. If you cannot persuade your-
self to try fruit on any larger plan, at least order
half a dozen dwarf trees (they will cost about
twenty cents apiece, and can be had by mail). They
will prove about the best paying investment you
ever made.

4

CHAPTER XVII
PRUNING, SPRAYING, HARVESTING

HE day has gone, probably forever, when
setting out fruit trees and giving them
occasional cultivation, “plowing up the or-

chard” once in several years, would produce fruit.
Apples and pears and peaches have occupied no
preferred position against the general invasion of
the realm of horticulture by insect and fungous ene-
mies. The fruits have, indeed, suffered more than
most plants. Nevertheless there is this encouraging
fact: that, though the fruits may have been severely
attacked, the means we now have of fighting fruit-
tree enemies, 1f thoroughly used, as a rule are more
certain of accomplishing their purpose, and keeping
the enemies completely at bay, than are similar
weapons in any other line of horticultural work.
With fruit trees, as with vegetables and flowers,
the most important precaution to be taken against
insects and disease is to have them in a healthy,
thriving, growing condition, It is a part of Na-
ture’s law of the survival of the fittest that any

(210)

PRUNING 211

backward or weakling plant or tree seems to fall
first prey to the ravages of destructive forces.

For these reasons the double necessity of main-
taining at all times good fertilization and thorough
cultivation will be seen. In addition to these two
factors, careful attention in the matter of pruning
is essential in keeping the trees in a healthy, robust
condition. As explained in a previous chapter, the
trees should be started right by pruning the first
season to the open-head or vase shape, which fur-
nishes the maximum of light and air to all parts of
the tree. Three or four main branches should form
the basis of the head, care being taken not to have
them start from directly opposite points on the
trunk, thus forming a crotch and leaving the tree
liable to splitting from winds or excessive crops. If
the tree is once started right, further pruning will
give little trouble. Cut out limbs which cross, or
are likely to rub against each other, or that are too
close together; and also any that are broken, de-
cayed, or injured in any way. For trees thus given
proper attention from the start, a short jackknife
will be the only pruning instrument required.

The case of the old orchard is more difficult.
Cutting out too many of the old, large limbs at one
time is sure to give a severe shock to the vitality
of the tree. A better plan is, first, to cut off close
all suckers and all small new-growth limbs, except

212 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

a few of the most promising, which may be left to
be developed into large limbs; and then as these
new limbs grow on, gradually to cut out, using a
fine-tooth saw and painting the exposed surfaces,
the surplus old wood. Apples will need more prun-
ing than the other fruits. Pears and cherries need
the least; cutting back the ends of limbs enough to
keep the trees in good form, with the removal of an
occasional branch for the purpose of letting in light
and air, is all the pruning they will require. Of
course trees growing on rich ground, and well cul-
tivated, will require more cutting back than those
growing under poorer conditions. A further pur-
pose of pruning is to effect indirectly a thinning of
the fruit, so that what is grown will be larger and
more valuable, and also that the trees may not be-
come exhausted by a few exceptionally heavy crops.

On trees that have been neglected and growing
slowly the bark sometimes becomes hard and set.
In such cases it will prove beneficial to scrape the
bark and give a wash applied with an old broom.
Whitewash is good for this purpose, but soda or
lye answers the same purpose and is less disagreea-
bly conspicuous. Slitting the bark of trunks and the
largest limbs is sometimes resorted to, care being
taken to cut through the bark only; but such prac-
tice is objectionable because it leaves ready access
to some forms of fungous disease and to borers,

SPRAYING 213

Where extra fine specimens of fruit are desired,
thinning is practiced. It helps also to prevent the
tree from being overtaxed by excessive crops. But
where pruning is thoroughly done this trouble is
usually avoided. Peaches and Japan plums are
especially benefited by thinning, as they have a great
tendency to overbear. The spread of fruit diseases,
especially rot in the fruit itself, is also to some
extent checked.

Of fruit-tree enemies there are some large sorts
which may do great damage in short order—rab-
bits and field mice. They may be kept away by
mechanical protection, such as wire, or by heaping
the earth up to a height of twelve inches about the
tree trunk. Or they may be caught with poisoned
baits, such as boiled grain in which a little Rough
on Rats or similar poison has been mixed. The
former method for the small home garden is little
trouble, safer to Fido and Tabby, and the most re-
liable in effect.

Insects and scale diseases are not so easily man-
aged; and that brings us to the question of spraying
and of sprays.

For large orchards the spray must, of course, be
applied with powerful and expensive machinery.
For the small fruit garden a much simpler and very
moderate priced apparatus may be acquired. The
most practical of these is the brass-tank com-

214 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

pressed-air sprayer, with extension rod and mist-
spray nozzle. Or one of the knapsack sprayers may
be used. Either of these will be of great assistance
not only with the fruit trees, but everywhere in the
garden. With care they will last a good many
years. Whatever type you get, be sure to get a
brass machine; as cheaper ones, made of other
metal, quickly corrode from contact with the strong
poisons used.

APPLE ENEMIES

The insects most commonly attacking the apple
are the codlin-moth, tent-caterpillar, canker-worm
and borer. The codlin-moth lays its eggs on the
fruit about the time of the falling of the blossoms,
and the larvz when hatched eat into the young fruit
and cause the ordinary wormy apples and pears.
Owing to these facts, it is too late to reach the trou-
ble by spraying after the calyx closes on the grow-
ing fruit. Keep close watch and spray immediately
upon the fall of the blossoms, and repeat the spray-
ing a week or so (not more than two) later. For
spray use Paris green at the rate of 1 lb., or arsenate
of lead (paste or powder, less of the latter: see
accompanying directions) at the rate of 4 lbs. to
100 gallons of water, being careful to have a thor-
ough mixture. During July, tie strips of burlap
or old bags around the trunks, and every week or so

A plum tree in full yeaniiee pe headed trees

are come to stay. They are less liable to

damage by wind and facilitate the gathering
of fruit

The efficiency of spraying depends upon the

thoroughness with which the liquid is applied

—cover every twig. A compressed air tank
sprayer with extension rod is seen here

SPRAYING ais

destroy all caterpillars caught in these traps. The
tent-caterpillar may be destroyed while in the egg
state, as these are plainly visible around the smaller
twigs in circular, brownish masses. (See illus-
tration.) Upon hatching, also, the nests are
obtrusively visible and may be wiped out with a
swab of old bag, or burned with a kerosene torch.
Be sure to apply this treatment before the cater-
pillar begins to leave the nest. The treatment
recommended for codlin-moths is also effective for
the tent-caterpillar.

The canker-worm is another leaf-feeding enemy,
and can be taken care of by the Paris green or
arsenate spray.

The railroad-worm, a small white maggot which
eats a small path in all directions through the ripen-
ing fruit, cannot be reached by spraying, as he
starts life inside the fruit; but where good clean
tillage is practiced and no fallen fruit is left to le
and decay under the trees, he is not apt to give much
trouble.

The borer’s presence is indicated by the dead,
withered appearance of the bark, beneath which he
is at work, and also by small amounts of sawdust
where he entered. Dig him out with a sharp pocket-
knife, or kill him inside with a piece of wire.

The most troublesome disease of the apple, espe-
cially in wet seasons, is the apple-scab, which dis-

216 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

figures the fruit, both in size and in appearance, as
it causes blotches and distortions. Spray with Bor-
deaux mixture, 5-5-50, or 3-3-50 (see formulas
below) three times: just before the blossoms open,
just as they fall, and ten days to two weeks after
they fall. The second spraying is considered the
most important.

The San José scale is of course really an insect,
though in appearance it seems a disease. It is much
more injurious than the untrained fruit grower
would suppose, because indirectly so. It is very
tiny, being round in outline, with a raised center,
and only the size of a small pinhead. Where it has
once obtained a good hold it multiplies very rapidly,
makes a scaly formation or crust on the branches,
and causes small red-edged spots on the fruit (see
illustration). For trees once infested, spray thor-
oughly both in fall, after the leaves drop, and again
in spring, before growth begins. Use lime-sulphur
wash, or miscible oil, one part to ten of water, thor-
oughly mixed.

CHERRY ENEMIES
Sour cherries are more easily grown than the
sweet varieties, and are less subject to the attacks
of fruit enemies. Sweet cherries are troubled by
the curculio, or fruit-worm, which attacks also
peaches and plums. Cherries and plums may be
sprayed, when most of the blossoms are off, with a

SPRAYING 217

strong arsenate of lead solution, 5 to 8 Ibs. to 100
gals. water. In addition to this treatment, where
the worms have once got a start, the beetles may
be destroyed by spreading a sheet around and be-
neath the tree, and every day or so shaking or
jarring them off into it, as described below.

PEACH ENEMIES

Do not spray peaches. For the curculio, within a
few days after the flowers are off, take a large sheet
of some cheap material to use as a catcher. For
large orchards there is a contrivance of this sort,
mounted on a wheelbarrow frame, but for the home
orchard a couple of sheets laid upon the ground, or
one with a slit from one side to the center, will
answer. If four short, sharp-pointed stakes are
fastened to the corners, and three or four stout
hooks and eyes are placed to reunite the slit after
the sheet is placed about the tree, the work can be
more thoroughly done, especially on uneven ground.
After the sheet is placed, with a stout club or mallet,
padded with a heavy sack or something similar to
prevent injury to the bark, give a few sharp blows,
well up from the ground. This work should be
done on a cloudy day, or early in the morning—the
colder the better—as the beetles are then inactive.
If a considerable number of beetles are caught the
operation should be repeated every two or three
days. Continue until the beetles disappear,

218 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

Peaches are troubled also by borers, in this case
indicated by masses of gum, usually about the
crown. Dig out or kill with a wire, as in the case
of the apple-borer. Look over the trees for borers
every spring, or better, every spring and fall.

Another peach enemy is the “yellows,” indicated
by premature ripening of the fruit and the forma-
tion of stunted leaf tufts, of a light yellow color.
This disease is contagious and has frequently
worked havoc in whole sections. Owing to the
work of the Agricultural Department and the vari-
ous State organizations it is now held in check. The
only remedy is to cut and burn the trees and replant,
in the same places if desired, as the disease does not
seem to be carried by the soil.

PEAR ENEMIES

Pears are sometimes affected with a scab similar
to the apple-scab, and this is combated by the same
treatment—three sprayings with Bordeaux.

A blight which causes the leaves suddenly to turn
black and die and also kills some small branches
and produces sores or wounds on large branches
and trunk, offers another difficulty. Cut out and
burn all affected branches and scrape out all sores.
Disinfect all sores with corrosive sublimate solution
—1 to 1000—or with a torch, and paint over at
once,

SPRAYING 219

PLUM ENEMIES

Plums have many enemies but fortunately they
can all be effectively checked. First is the curculio,
to be treated as described above.

For leaf-blight—spotting and dropping off of the
leaves about midsummer—spray with Bordeaux
within a week or so after the falling of the blos-
soms. This treatment will also help to prevent
fruit-rot. In addition to the spraying, however,
thin out the fruit so that it does not hang thickly
enough for the plums to come in contact with each
other.

In a well kept and well sprayed orchard black-knot
is not at all likely to appear. It is very manifest
wherever it starts, causing ugly, black, distorted
knarls, at first on the smaller limbs. Remove and
burn immediately, and keep a sharp watch for more.
As this disease is supposed to be carried by the
wind, see to it that no careless neighbor is supplying
you with the germs.

As will have been seen from the above, spraying
poisons are of two kinds: those that work by con-
tact, which must be used for most sucking insects,
and germs and fungous diseases; and those that
poison internally, used for leaf-eating insects. Of
the former sort, Bordeaux mixture is the standard,
although within the last few years it has been to a
considerable extent replaced by lime-sulphur mix-

220 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

tures, which are described below. Bordeaux is
made in various forms. That usually used is the
5-5-50, or 5 lbs. copper sulphate, 5 lbs. unslaked
lime, 50 gals. water. To save the trouble of making
up the mixture each time it is needed make a stock
solution as follows: dissolve the copper sulphate
in water at the rate of 1 Ib. to 1 gal. This should
be done the day before, or at least several hours
before, the Bordeaux is wanted for use. Suspend
the sulphate crystals in a cloth or old bag just below
the surface of the water. Then slake the lime in a
tub or tight box, adding the water a little at a time,
until the whole attains the consistency of thick milk.
When necessary, add water to this mixture if it is
kept too long; never let it dry out. When ready
to spray, pour the stock copper sulphate solution
into the tank in the proportion of 5 gals. to every
50 of spray required. Add water to amount re-
quired. Then add stock lime solution, first diluting
about one-half with water and straining. The
amount of lime stock solution to be used is deter-
mined as follows: at the druggist’s get an ounce of
yellow prussiate of potash dissolved in a pint of
water, with a quill in the cork of the bottle so
that it may be dropped out. (It is poison.) When
adding the stock lime solution as directed above,
continue until the prussiate testing solution when
dropped into the Bordeaux mixture will no longer

SPRAYING 221

turn brown; then add a little more lime to be on the
safe side. All this sounds like a formidable task,
but it is quite simple when you really get at it.
Remember that all you need is a few pounds each
of quicklime and copper sulphate, an ounce of prus-
siate of potash and a couple of old kegs or large
pails, in which to keep the stock solutions.

Lime-sulphur mixtures can be bought, or mixed
by the home orchardist. They have the advantages
over Bordeaux that they do not discolor the foliage
or affect the appearance of the fruit. Use accord-
ing to directions, usually about I part to 30 of
water. These may be used at the same times and
for the same purposes as Bordeaux.

Lime-sulphur wash is used largely in commercial
orcharding, but it is a nasty mess to prepare and
must be used in late fall or winter. For the home
orchard one of the miscible oils now advertised will
be found more satisfactory. While they cost more,
there is no time or expense for preparation, as they
mix with cold water and are immediately ready for
use. They are easier to apply, more comfortable to
handle, and will not so quickly rot out pumps and
spraying apparatus. Like the sulphur wash, use
only during late fall and winter.

Kerosene emulsion is made by dissolving Ivory,
soft, whale-oil, or tar soap in hot water and adding
(away from the stove, please!) kerosene (or crude

222 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

oil); % Ib. soap, 1 gal. water, 2 gals. kerosene.
Immediately place in a pail and churn or pump until
a thick, lathery cream results. This is the stock
solution: for use, dilute with five to fifteen times
as much water, according to purpose applied for—
on dormant fruit trees, 5 to 7 times; on foliage,
10 or even I5.

Of the poisons for eating-insects, arsenate of lead
is the best for use in the fruit orchard, because it
will not burn the foliage as Paris green is apt to
do, and because it stays on longer. It can be used
in Bordeaux and lime-sulphur mixtures, thus kill-
ing two bugs with one spray. It comes usually in
the form of a paste—though there is now a brand
in powder form (which I have not yet tried). This
should be worked up with the fingers (it is not
poison to touch) or a small wooden paddle, until
thoroughly mixed, in a small quantity of water and
then strained into the sprayer. Use, of the paste
forms, from one-fourth to one Ib. in 20 gals. clear
water.

Paris green is the old standard. With a modern
duster it may be blown on pure without burning, if
carefully done. Applied thus it should be put on
during a still morning, before the dew goes. It is
safer to use as a spray, first making a paste with a
small quantity of water, and then adding balance
of water. Keep constantly stirred while spraying.

SHINING AL LINYA NOWWOD FHL AO OMI
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| |
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Plums slightly infested with San José scale
and its attendant discoloration

Male scale surrounded by young scales
in various sizes—greatly enlarged

HARVESTING 223

If lime is added, weight for weight with the green,
the chances of burning will be greatly reduced. For
orchard work, 1 Ib. to 100 gals. water is the usual
strength.

The accompanying table will enable the home
orchardist to find quickly the trouble with, and
remedy for, any of his fruit trees.

The quality of fruit will depend very largely upon
the care exercised in picking and storing. Picking,
carelessly done, while it may not at the time show
any visible bad results, will result in poor keeping
and rot. If the tissue cells are broken, as many will
be by rough handling, they will be ready to cause
rotten spots under the first favorable conditions, and
then the rot will spread. Most of the fruits of the
home garden, which do not have to undergo ship-
ping, will be of better quality where they ripen fully
on the tree. Pears, however, are often ripened in
the dark and after picking, especially the winter
sorts. Apples and pears for winter use should be
kept, if possible, in a cold, dark place, where there
is no artificial heat, and where the air will be moist,
but never wet, and where the thermometer will not
fall below thirty-two degrees. Upon exceptionally
cold nights the temperature may be kept up by using
an oil stove or letting in heat from the furnace cel-
lar, if that is adjacent. In such a place, store the
fruit loosely, on ventilated shelves, not more than

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HARVESTING 22'

six or eight inches deep If they must be kept in a
heated place, pack in tight boxes or barrels, being
careful to put away only perfect fruit, or pack in
sand or leaves. Otherwise they will lose much in
quality by shriveling, due to lack of moisture in the
-atmosphere. With care they may be had in prime
‘ quality until late in the following spring.

Do not let yourself be discouraged from growing
your own fruit by the necessity for taking good
care of your trees. After all, you do not have to
plant them every year, as you do vegetables, and
they yield a splendid return on the small invest-
ment required. Do not fail to set out at least a few
this year with the full assurance that your satisfac-
tion is guaranteed by the facts in the case,

15

CuHapter XVIII
BERRIES AND SMALL FRUITS

ESIDES the tree-fruits discussed in the pre-
ceding chapters, there is another class
which should be represented in every home

garden—the berries and small fruits. These have
the advantage of occupying much less room than
the former do and are therefore available where the
others are not.

The methods of giving berries proper cultivation
are not so generally known as the methods used
with vegetables. Otherwise there is no reason why
a few of each should not be included in every garden
of average size. Their requirements are not exact-
ing: the amount of skill, or rather of attention, re-
quired to care for them is not more than that
required by the ordinary vegetables. In fact, once
they are well established they will demand less time
than the annual vegetables.

Of these small fruits the most popular and useful
are: the strawberry, the blackberry, dewberry and
raspberry, the currant, gooseberry and grape.

(226)

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These currant bushes, though fifteen years old, are
kept pruned down to three feet in height. They bear
fruits that are as large as cherries

BERRIES AND SMALL FRuits 2347

The strawberry is the most important, and most
amateurs attempt its culture—many, however, with
indifferent success. This is due, partly at least, to
the fact that many methods are advocated by suc-
cessful growers, and that the beginner is not likely
to pick out one and stick to it; and further, that he
is led to pay more attention to how many layers he
will have, and at what distance he will set the plants,
than to proper selection and preparation of soil and
other vital matters.

The soil should be well drained and rich—a good
garden soil being suitable. The strawberries should
not follow sod or corn. If yard manure is used it
should be old and well rotted, so as to be as free as
possible from weed seeds. Potash, in some form
(see Fertilizers) should be added. The bed should
be thoroughly prepared, so that the plants, which
need careful transplanting, may take hold at once.
A good sunny exposure is preferable, and a spot
where no water will collect is essential.

The plants are grown from “layers.” They are
taken in two ways: (1) by rooting the runners in the
soil; and by layering in pots. In the former method
they are either allowed to root themselves, or, which
gives decidedly better results, by selecting vines
from strong plants and pushing them lightly down
into the soil where the new crown is to be formed.
In the second method, two-inch or three-inch pots

228 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

are used, filling these with soil from the bed and
plunging, or burying, them level with the surface,
just below where the crown is to be formed, and
holding the vine in place with a small stone, which
serves the additional purpose of marking where the
pot is. In either case these layers are made after
the fruiting season.

SETTING THE PLANTS

In using the soil-rooted layers, it is generally
more satisfactory to set them out in spring, as soon
as the ground can be worked, although they are
sometimes set in early fall—August or September—
when the ground is in very good condition, so that
a good growth can at once be made. Care should
be used in transplanting. Have the bed fresh; keep
the plants out of the soil as short a time as possible;
set the plants in straight, and firm the soil; set just
down to the crown—do not cover it. If the soil is
dry, or the season late, cut off all old leaves before
planting; also shorten back the roots about one-
third and be sure not to crowd them when setting,
for which purpose a trowel, not a dibble, should be
used if the condition of the ground makes the use
of any implement necessary. If so dry that water
must be used, apply it in the bottom of the hole.
If very hot and dry, shade for a day or two.

BERRIES AND SMALL FRUuITS 229
METHODS OF GROWING

I describe the three systems most valuable for the
home garden: (1) the hill, (2) the matted row, and
(3) the pot-layered. (1) In the hill system the
plants are put in single rows, or in beds of three or
four rows, the plants one foot apart and the rows,
or beds, two or three feet apart. In either case each
plant is kept separate, and all runners are pinched
off as fast as they form, the idea being to throw
all the strength into one strong crown. (2) In the
matted row system the plants are set in single rows,
and the runners set in the bed at five or six inches
each side of the plants, and then trained lengthways
of the row, this making it a foot or so wide. The
runners used to make these secondary crowns must
be the first ones sent out by the plants; they should
be severed from the parent plants as soon as well
rooted. All other runners must be taken off as they
form. To keep the beds for a good second crop,
where the space between the rows has been kept
cultivated and clean, cut out the old plants as soon
as the first crop of berries is gathered, leaving the
new ones—layered the year before—about one foot
apart. (3) The pot-layering system, especially for
a small number of plants, I consider the best. It
will be seen that by the above systems the ground
is occupied three years, to get two crops, and the

230 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

strawberry season is a short one at best. By this
third system the strawberry is made practically an
annual, and the finest of berries are produced. The
new plants are layered in pots, as described above.
The layers are taken immediately after the fruit is
gathered; or better still, because earlier, a few
plants are picked out especially to make runners.
In either case, fork up the soil about the plants to
be layered, and in about fifteen days they will be
ready to have the pots placed under them. The
main point is to have pot plants ready to go into
the new bed as soon as possible after the middle
of July. These are set out as in the hill system, and
all runners kept pinched off, so that a large crown
has been formed by the time the ground freezes,
and a full crop of the very best berries will be
assured for the following spring. The pot-layering
is repeated each year, and the old plants thrown
out, no attempt being made to get a second crop. It
will be observed that ground is occupied by the
strawberries only the latter half of the one season
and the beginning of the next, leaving ample time
for a crop of early lettuce, cabbage or peas before
the plants are set, say in 1911, and for late cabbage
or celery after the bed is thrown out, in 1912. Thus
the ground is made to yield three crops in two years
—a very important point where garden space is
limited.

BERRIES AND SMALL FRUITS 231

CULTIVATION

Whatever system is used—and each has its advo-
cates—the strawberry bed must be kept clean, and
attention given to removing the surplus runners.
Cultivate frequently enough to keep a dust mulch
between the rows, as advocated for garden crops
(page 102). At first, after setting, the cultivation
may be as deep as three or four inches, but as the
roots develop and fill the ground it should be re-
stricted to two inches at most. Where a horse is
used a Planet Jr. twelve-tooth cultivator will be just
the thing.

MULCHING

After the ground freezes, and before severe cold
sets in (about the Ist to the 15th of December) the
bed should be given its winter mulch. Bog hay,
which may be obtained cheaply from some nearby
farmer, is about the best material. Clean straw will
do. Cover the entire bed, one or two inches over the
plants, and two or three between the rows. If neces-
sary, hold in place with old boards. In spring, but
not before the plants begin to grow, over each
plant the mulch is pushed aside to let it through.
Besides giving winter protection, the mulch acts as
a clean even support for the berries and keeps tne
roots cool and moist.

232 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

INSECTS AND DISEASE

For white-grub and cut-worm see pages 165, 167.
For rust, which frequently injures the leaves so se-
riously as to cause practical loss of crop, choose
hardy varieties and change bed frequently. Spray-
ing with Bordeaux, 5-5-50, four or five times during
first season plants are set, and second season just
before and just after blossoming, will prevent it.
In making up your strawberry list remember that
some varieties have imperfect, or pistillate blossoms,
and that when such varieties are used a row of some
perfect-flowering (bi-sexual) sort must be set every
nine to twelve feet.

VARIETIES

New strawberries are being introduced con-
stantly ; also, they vary greatly in their adaptation
to locality. Therefore it is difficult to advise as to
what varieties to plant. The following, however,
have proved satisfactory over wide areas, and may
be depended upon to give satisfaction. Early crop:
—Michel’s Early, Haverland, Climax; mid-season
crop:—Bubach No. 5, Brandywine, Marshall, Nic.
Ohmer, Wm. Belt, Glen Mary, Sharplesss; late crop:
—The Gandy, Sample, Lester Lovett.

The blackberry, dewberry and raspberry are all
treated in much the same way. The soil should be

BERRIES AND SMALL FRUuITS 233

well drained, but if a little clayey, so muchethe
better. They are planned preferably in early spring,
and set from three or four to six or seven feet apart,
according to the variety. They should be put in
firmly. Set the plants in about as deep as they have
been growing, and cut the canes back to six or eight
inches. If fruit is wanted the same season as
bushes are set, get a few extra plants—they cost
but a few cents—and cut back to two feet or so.
Plants fruited the first season are not likely to do
well the following year. Two plants may be set ina
place and one fruited. If this one is exhausted, then
little will be lost. Give clean cultivation frequently
enough to maintain a soil mulch, as it is very neces-
sary to retain all the moisture possible. Cultiva-
tion, though frequent, should be very shallow as
soon as the plants get a good start. In very hot
seasons, if the ground is clean, a summer mulch of
old hay, leaves or rough manure will be good for
the same purpose.

In growing, a good stout stake is used for each
plant, to which the canes are tied with some soft
material. Or, a stout wire is strung the length of
the row and the canes fastened to this—a better
way, however, being to string two wires, one on
either side of the row.

Another very important matter is that of prun-
ing. The plants if left to themselves will throw

234 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

up altogether too much wood. This must be cut
out to four or five of the new canes and all the
canes that have borne fruit should be cut and burned
each season as soon as through fruiting. The
canes, for instance, that grow in 1911 will be those
to fruit in 1912, after which they should be imme-
diately removed. The new canes, if they are to
be self-supporting, as sometimes grown, should be
cut back when three or four feet high.

It is best, however, to give support. In the case
of those varieties which make fruiting side-shoots,
as most of the black raspberries (blackcaps) do,
the canes should be cut back at two to three feet,
and it is well also to cut back these side shoots one-
third to one-half, early in the spring.

In cold sections (New York or north of it) it is
safest to give winter protection by “laying down” the
canes and giving them a mulch of rough material.
Having them near the ground is in itself a great
protection, as they will not be exposed to sun and
wind and’ will sometimes be covered with snow.

For mulching, the canes are bent over nearly at
the soil and a shovelful of earth thrown on the tips
to hold them down; the entire canes may then be
covered with soil or rough manure, but do not put
it on until freezing weather is at hand. Ifa mulch
is used, it must be taken off before growth starts
in the spring.

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Sd11IaqMBIJS 9}L] JSaq ay} JO auo ‘Apurry

Strawberry plants are propagated

plants are

: 4 . oe -
by what is called pot-layering. Runners from the old
pegged down in pots until they take root and form new plants

BERRIES AND SMALL FRuItTs 235

THE BLACKBERRY

The large-growing sorts are set as much as six
by eight feet apart, though with careful staking and
pruning they may be comfortably handled in less
space. The smaller sorts need about four by six.
When growth starts, thin out to four or five canes
and pinch these off at about three feet; or, if they
are to be put on wires or trellis, they may be cut
when tied up the following spring. Cultivate, mulch
and prune as suggested above.

Blackberries will do well on a soil a little dry for
raspberries and they do not need it quite so rich,
as in this case the canes do not ripen up sufficiently
by fall, which is essential for good crops. If grow-
ing rank they should be pinched back in late August.
When tying up in the spring, the canes should be
cut back to four or five feet and the laterals to not
more than eighteen inches.

Blackberry enemies do not do extensive injury,
as a rule, in well-cared-for beds. The most serious
are: (I) the rust or blight, for which there is no
cure but carefully pulling and burning the plants as
fast as infested; (2) the blackberry-bush borer, for
which burn infested canes; and (3) the recently
introduced bramble flea-louse, which resembles the
green plant-louse or aphis (page 161) except that
it is a brisk jumper, like the flea-beetle. The leaves

236 #HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

twist and curl up in summer and do not drop off
in the fall. On cold early mornings, or wet weather,
while the insects are sluggish, cut all infested shoots,
collecting them in a tight box, and burn.

BLACKBERRY VARIETIES

As with the other small fruits, so many varieties
are being introduced that it is difficult to give a list
of the best for home use. Any selections from the
following, however, will prove satisfactory, as they
are tried-and-true:—Early King, Early Harvest,
Wilson Junior, Kittatinny, Rathburn, Snyder, Erie.

THE DEWBERRY

This is really a trailing blackberry and needs the
same culture, except that the canes are naturally
slender and trailing and therefore, for garden cul-
ture, must have support. They may be staked up,
or a barrel hoop, supported by two stakes, makes
a good support. In ripening, the dewberry is ten
to fourteen days earlier than the blackberry, and for
that reason a few plants should be included in the
berry patch. Premo is the earliest sort, and Lucre-
tia the standard.

RASPBERRY

The black and the red types are distinct in flavor,
and both should be grown. The blackcaps need

BERRIES AND SMALL FRuiItTs 237

more room, about three by six or seven feet; for
the reds three by five feet will be sufficient. The
blackcaps, and a few of the reds, like Cuthbert,
throw out fruiting side branches, and should have
the main canes cut back at about two and a half
feet to encourage the growth of these laterals, which,
in the following spring, should be cut back to about
one-third their length. The soil for raspberries
should be clayey if possible, and moist, but not wet.

RASPBERRY ENEMIES

The orange rust, which attacks the blackberry
also, is a serious trouble. Pull up and burn all in-
fested plants at once, as no good remedy has as yet
been found. The cut-worm, especially in newly set
beds, may sometimes prove destructive of the
sprouting young canes. For treatment see page 165.
The raspberry-borer is the larva of a small, flat-
tish, red-necked beetle, which bores to the center of
the canes during summer growth, and kills them.
Cut and burn,

RASPBERRY VARIETIES

Of the blackcaps, Gregg, McCormick, Munger,
Cumberland, Columbian, Palmer (very early), and
Eureka (late), are all good sorts. Reds: Cuthbert,
Cardinal (new), Turner, Reliance, The King (extra
early), Loudon (late). Yellow: Golden Queen.

238 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING
CURRANTS

The currant and gooseberry are very similar in
their cultural requirements. A deep, rich and moist
soil is the best—approaching a clayey loam. There
need be no fear of giving too much manure, but it
should be well rotted. Plenty of room, plenty of
air, plenty of moisture, secured where necessary by
a soil or other mulch in hot dry weather, are essen-
tial to the production of the best fruit.

The currant will stand probably as much abuse
as any plant the home gardener will have to deal
with. Stuck in a corner, smothered in sod, crowded
with old wood, stripped by the currant-worm, it
still struggles along from year to year, ever hope-
fully trying to produce a meager crop of poor fruit.
But these are not the sort you want. Although it
is so tough, no fruit will respond to good care more
quickly.

To have it do well, give it room, four or five
feet each way between bushes. Manure it liberally;
give it clean cultivation, and as the season gets
hot and dry, mulch the soil, if you would be certain
of a full-sized, full-flavored crop. Two bushes,
well cared for, will yield more than a dozen half-
neglected ones. Anywhere north of New York a
full crop every year may be made almost certain.

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jsour 9} JO 9uO aie Ayenb Jo sarsaqyoe[g_ pue afqe} a4} JO} syuviind uMO AMO MOID

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For what you would pay for these you c

ould buy a dozen good
raspberry plants—enough with a little care to yield several
dozen boxes of fine fruit the following season

Gooseberries like these may be grown In every garden. With
the advent of modern sprays the dreaded mildew may be held
in check

BERRIES AND SMALL FRuITS 239

PRUNING CURRANTS

Besides careful cultivation, to insure the best of
fruit it is necessary to give some thought to the
matter of pruning. The most convenient and the
most satisfactory way is to keep it in the bush form.
Set the plants singly, three or four feet apart, and
so cut the new growth, which is generously pro-
duced, as to retain a uniform bush shape, preferably
rather open in the center.

The fruit is produced on wood two or more
years old. Therefore cut out branches either when
very small, or not until four or five years later,
after it has borne two or three crops of fruit.
Therefore, in pruning currants, take out (1) super-
fluous young growth; (2) old hard wood (as new
wood will produce better fruit; and (3) all weak,
broken, dead or diseased shoots; (4) during sum-
mer, if the tips of the young growths kept for fruit-
ing aré pinched off, they will ripen up much better
—meaning better fruit when they bear; (5) to
maintain a good form, the whole plant may be
cut back (never more than one-third) in the fall.

In special situations it may be advisable to train
the currant to one or a few main stems, as against
a wall; this can be done, but it is less convenient.
Also it brings greater danger from the currant-

borer.

240 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

The black currant, used almost entirely for culi-
nary or preserving purposes, is entirely different
from the red and white ones. They are much larger
and should be put five to six feet apart. Some of
the fruit is borne on one-year-old wood, so the
shoots should not be cut back. Moreover, old wood
bears as good fruit as the new growth, and need not
be cut out, unless the plant is getting crowded, for
several years. As the wood is much heavier and
stronger than the other currants, it is advisable
gradually to develop the black currants into the tree
form.

ENEMIES OF THE CURRANT

The worst of these is the common currant-worm.
When he appears, which will be indicated by holes
eaten in the lower leaves early in spring, generally
before the plants bloom, spray at once with Paris
green. Ifa second brood appears, spray with white
hellebore (if this is not all washed off by the rain,
wipe from the fruit when gathered). For the
borer, cut and burn every infested shoot. Examine
the bushes in late fall, and those in which the borers
are at work will usually have a wilted appearance
and be of a brownish color.

VARIETIES OF CURRANTS

Red Dutch, while older and smaller than some

BERRIES AND SMALL FRUITS 241

of the newer varieties, is hardier and not so likely
to be hurt by the borer. London Market, Fay’s
Prolific, Perfection (new), and Prince Albert, are
good sorts. White Grape is a good white. Naples,
and Lee’s Prolific are good black sorts.

THE GOOSEBERRY

This is given practically the same treatment as
the currant. It is even more important that
it should be given the coolest, airiest, location possi-
ble, and the most moist soil. Even a partially
shaded situation will do, but in such situations extra
care must be taken to guard against the mildew—
which is mentioned below. Summer mulching is,
of course, of special benefit.

In pruning the gooseberry, it is best to cut out
to a very few, or even to a single stem. Keep the
head open, to allow free circulation of air. The
extent of pruning will make a great difference in
the size of the fruit; if fruit of the largest size is
wanted, prune very close. All branches drooping
to the ground should be removed. Keep the
branches, as much as possible, from touching each
other.

GOOSEBERRY ENEMIES

The currant-worm attacks the gooseberry also,
and is effectively handled by the arsenate of lead,

16

242 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING.

Paris green or hellebore spraying, mentioned above.

The great trouble in growing gooseberries suc-
cessfully is the powdery mildew—a dirty, whitish
fungous growth covering both fruit and leaves. It
is especially destructive of the foreign varieties, the
culture of which, until the advent of the potassium
sulfide spray, was being practically abandoned. Use
1 oz. of potassium sulfide (liver of sulphur) to 2
gals. water, and mix just before using. Spray thor-
oughly three or four times a month, from the time
the blossoms are opening until fruit is ripe.

GOOSEBERRY VARIETIES

Of the native gooseberries—which are the hard-
iest, Downing and Houghton’s Seedling are most
used. Industry is an English variety, doing well
here. Golden Prolific, Champion, and Columbus, are
other good foreign sorts, but only when the mildew
is successfully fought off.

THE GRAPE

No garden is so small that there cannot be found
in it room for three or four grape-vines; no fruit is
more certain, and few more delicious.

If it is convenient, a situation fully exposed to
the sun, and sloping slightly, will be preferable. But
any good soil, provided only it is rich and thor-
oughly drained, will produce good results,

BERRIES AND SMALL FRUITS 243

If a few vines are to be set against walls, or in
other out-of-the-way places, prepare the ground for
them by excavating a good-sized hole, putting in a
foot of coal cinders or other drainage material, and
refilling with good heavy loam, enriched with old,
well rotted manure and half a peck of wood ashes.
For culture in the garden, such special preparation
will not be necessary—although, if the soil is not in
good shape, it will be advisable slightly to enrich
the hills.

One or two-year roots will be the most satisfac-
tory to buy. They may be set in either fall or
spring—the latter time, for New York or north,
being generally preferable. When planting, the
cane should be cut back to three or four eyes, and
the roots should also be shortened back—usually
about one-third. Be sure to make the hole large
enough, when setting, to let the roots spread natu-
rally, and work the soil in well around them with
the fingers. Set them in firmly, by pressing down
hard with the ball of the foot after firming by hand.
They are set about six feet apart.

GRAPE PRUNING

As stated above, the vine is cut back, when plant-
ing, to three or four eyes. The subsequent pruning
—and the reader must at once distinguish between
pruning, and training, or the way in which the vines

244 HoME VEGETABLE GARDENING

are placed—will determine more than anything else
the success of the undertaking. Grapes depend
more upon proper pruning than any other fruit or
vegetable in the garden. Two principles must be
kept track of in this work. First principle: the an-
nual crop is borne only on canes of the same year's
growth, springing from wood of the previous sea-
son’s growth. Second principle: the vine, if left to
itself, will set three or four times the number of
bunches it can properly mature. Asa result of these
facts, the following system of pruning has been de-
veloped and must be followed for sure and full-sized
crops.

(1) At time of planting, cut back to three or four
eyes, and after these sprout leave only one (or two)
of them, which should be staked up.

(2) Following winter (December to March),
leave only one cane and cut this back to three or
four eyes.

(3) Second growing season, save only two canes,
even if several sprout, and train these to stake or
trellis. These two vines, or arms, branching from
the main stem, form the foundation for the one-
year canes that bear the fruit. However, to pre-
vent the vine’s setting too much fruit (see second
principle above) these arms must be cut back in
order to limit the number of fruit-bearing canes that
will spring from them, therefore:

(4) Second winter pruning, cut back these arms

BERRIES AND SMALL FRuits 245

to eight or ten buds—and we have prepared for the
first crop of fruit, about forty bunches, as the fruit-
ing cane from each bud will bear two bunches on
the average. However these main arms will not
bear fruiting-canes another year (see first principle
above) and therefore:

(5) At the third winter pruning, (a) of the canes
that bore fruit, only the three or four nearest the
main stem or trunk are left; (b) these are cut back
to eight or ten buds each, and (c) everything else
is ruthlessly cut away.

potion J

fete

A B c D

The dotted portions of the grape vines indicate what should
be cut away: A, when setting; B, following winter; C, a
year later; D, each winter thereafter.

Each succeeding year the same system is con-
tinued, care being taken to rub off, each May, buds
or sprouts starting on the main trunk or arms.

The wood, in addition to being cut back, must

246 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

be well ripened; and the wood does not ripen until
after the fruit. It therefore sometimes becomes
necessary to cut out some of the bunches in order
to hasten the ripening of the rest. At the same time
the application of some potash fertilizer will be
helpful. If the bunches do not ripen up quickly and
pretty nearly together, the vine is overloaded and
being damaged for the following year.

The matter of pruning being mastered, the ques-
tion of training is one of individual choice. Poles,
trellises, arbors, walls—almost anything may be
used. The most convenient system, however, and
the one I would strongly recommend for practical
home gardening for results, is known as the (modi-
fied) Kniffen system. It is simplicity itself. A
stout wire is stretched five or six feet above the
ground; to this the single main trunks of the vine
run up, and along it are stretched the two or three
arms from which the fruiting-canes hang down.
They occupy the least possible space, so that garden
crops may be grown practically on the same ground.
I have never seen it tried, but where garden space
is limited I should think that the asparagus bed and
the Kniffen grape-arbor just described could be
combined to great advantage by placing the vines,
in spaces left for them, directly in the asparagus
row. Of course the ground would have to be ma-
nured for two crops, A 2-8-10 fertilizer is right

BERRIES AND SMALL FRUITS 247

for the grapes. If using stable manure, apply also
ashes or some other potash fertilizer.

If the old-fashioned arbor is used, the best way
is to run the main trunk up over it and cut the
laterals back each year to two or three eyes.

The most serious grape trouble which the home
gardener is likely to encounter is the black-rot.
Where only a few grapes are grown the simplest
way of overcoming this disease is to get a few dozen
cheap manila store-bags and fasten one, with a
couple of ten-penny nails, over each bunch. Cut the
mouth of the bag at sides and edges, cover the
bunch, fold the flaps formed over the cane, and
fasten. They are put on after the bunches are well
formed and hasten the ripening of the fruit, as well
as protecting it. On a larger scale, spraying will
have to be resorted to. Use Bordeaux, 5-5-50, from
third leaf’s appearance to middle of July; balance of
season with ammoniacal copper carbonate. The
spray should be applied in particular just before
every rain—especially on the season’s growth. Be-
sides the spraying, all trimmed-off wood, old leaves
and twigs, withered bunches and grapes, or “mum-
mies,’ and refuse of every description, should be
carefully raked up in the spring and burned or
buried. Also give clean culture and keep the main
stems clean.

The grape completes the list of the small fruits

248 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

worth while to the average home gardener. If you
have not already experimented with them, do not
let your garden go longer without them. They are
all easily obtained (none costing more than a few
cents each), and a very limited number will keep
the family table well supplied with healthy delica-
cies, which otherwise, in their best varieties and
condition, could not be had at all. The various
operations of setting out, pruning and spraying will
soon become as familiar as those in the vegetable
garden. There is no reason why every home gar-
den should not have its few rows of small fruits,
yielding their delicious harvests in abundance.

CuarTer XIX

A CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS

NE of the greatest difficulties in gardening
is to get things started ahead at the proper

time, and yet upon the thoroughness with
which this is done the success of the garden must
depend, in large measure.

The reader may remember that in a previous
chapter (Chapter IV) the importance of accurately
planning the work ahead was emphasized. I men-
tioned there the check list used to make sure that
everything would be carried out, or started ahead
at the proper time—as with the sowing of seeds.
The following garden operations, given month by
month, will serve not only as a timely reminder of
things to be done, but as the basis for such a check
list. The importance of the preparations in all
matters of gardening, is of course obvious.

JANUARY

Probably one of the good resolutions made with
the New Year was a better garden for the coming

(249)

250 HomE VEGETABLE GARDENING

summer. The psychologists claim that the only
hope for resolutions is to nail them down at the
start with an action—that seems to have more ef-
fect in making an actual impression on the brain.
So start the good work along by sending at once
for several of the leading seed catalogues.

Planting Plan, Make out a list of what you are
going to want this year, and then make your Plant-
ing Plan. See pages 18, 20.

Seeds. Order your seed. Do tt now while the
seedsman’s stock is full; while he is not rushed;
while there is ample time to rectify mistakes if any
occur.

Manures. Altogether too few amateur gardeners
realize the great importance of procuring early
every pound of manures, of any kind, to be had. It
often may be had cheaply at this time of year, and
by composting, adding phosphate rock, and several
turnings, if you have any place under cover where
it can be collected, you can double its value before
spring.

Frames. Even at this season of the year do not
fail to air the frames well on warm days. Prac-
tically no water will be needed, but if the soil does
dry out sufficiently to need it, apply early on a
bright morning.

Onions. It will not be too early, this month, to
sow onions for spring transplanting outside. Get a

CALENDAR 2ey

packet each of Prizetaker, Ailsa Craig, Mammoth
Silver-skin, or Gigantic Gibraltar. See facing p.
118.

Lettuce. Sow lettuce for spring crop under glass
or in frames.

Fruit. This is a good month to prune grapes,
currants, gooseberries and peach trees, to avoid the
rush that will come later.

FEBRUARY

Hotbeds. A little early for making them until
after the 15th, but get all your material ready—
manure, selected and stacked; lumber ready for any
new ones; sash all in good repair.

Starting Seeds. First part of the month, earliest
planting of cabbage, cauliflower and lettuce should
be made; and two to four weeks later for main early
crop. At this time also, beets and earliest celery.

Tools. Overhaul them all now; order repairs.
Get new catalogues and study new improvements
and kinds you do not possess.

Poles and brush. Whether you use the old-fash-
ioned sort (now harder to obtain than they used to
be) or make your “poles” (facing p. 106) and use
wire trellis for peas, attend to it now.

Fruit. Finish up last month’s work, if not all
done. Also examine plum and cherry trees for
black-knot, See page 219.

252 HomME VEGETABLE GARDENING

MARCH

Hotbeds. If not made last of February, should
be made at once. Some of the seed sown last month
will be ready for transplanting and going into the
frames; also lettuce sown in January. Radish and
carrot (forcing varieties) may be sown in alternat-
ing rows (page 109). Give much more air; water
on bright mornings; be careful not to have them
caught by suddenly cold nights after a bright warm
day.

Seed-sowing nnder glass. Last sowing of early
cabbage and early summer cabbages (like Succes-
sion), lettuce, rhubarb (for seedling plants), cauli-
flower, radish, spinach, turnip, and early tomatoes;
towards last of month, late tomatoes and first of
peppers, and egg-plant. Sweet peas often find a
place in the vegetable garden; start a few early, to
set out later; they will do better than if started out-
side. Start tomatoes for growing in frames. For
early potatoes sprout in sand (page 112).

Planting, outside. If an early spring, and the
ground is sufficiently dry, sow onions, lettuce, beet,
radish, (sweet peas), smooth peas, early carrot, cab-
bage, leek, celery (main crop), and turnip. Set out
new beds of asparagus, rhubarb and sea-kale (be
sure to try a few plants of the latter; see page 125).
Manure and fork up old beds of above.

CALENDAR 253

Fruit. Prune now, apple, plum and pear trees.
And this is the last chance for lime-sulphur and
miscible-oil sprays.

APRIL

Now the rush is on! Plan your work, and work
your plan. But do not yield to the temptation to
plant more than you can look out for later on.
Remember it is much easier to sow seeds than to
pull out weeds.

The Frames. Air! water! and do not let the
green plant-lice or the white-fly get a ghost of a
chance to start. Almost every day the glass should
be lifted entirely off. Care must be taken never to
let the soil or flats become dried out; toward the
end of the month, if it is bright and warm, begin
watering towards evening instead of in early morn-
ing, as you should have been doing through the

‘winter. If proper attention is given to ventilation
and moisture, there will not be much danger from
the green plant-louse (aphis) and white-fly, but at
the first sign of one fight them to a finish. Use
kerosene emulsion, tobacco dust, tobacco prepara-
tions, or Aphine. See pages 158, 172.

Seed sowing. Under glass: tomato, egg-plant
and peppers. On sod: corn, cucumbers, melons,
early squash, lima beans.

Planting, outside. Onions, lettuce, beet, etc., if

254 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

not put in last month; also parsnip, salsify, parsley,
wrinkled peas, endive. Toward the end of this
month (or first part of next) second plantings of
these. Set out plants of early cabbage (and the
cabbage group) lettuce, onion sets, sprouted pota-
toes, beets, etc.

In the Garden. Cultivate between rows of sowed
crops; weed out by hand just as soon as they are
up enough to be seen; watch for cut-worms and
root-maggots.

Fruit. Thin out all old blackberry canes, dew-
berry and raspberry canes (if this was not done, as
it should have been, directly after the fruiting sea-
son last summer). Be ready for first spraying of
early-blossoming trees. Set out new strawberry
beds, small fruits and fruit trees.

MAY

Keep ahead of the weeds. This is the month
when those warm, south, driving rains often keep
the ground too wet to work for days at a time, and
weeds grow by leaps and bounds. Woe betide the
gardener whose rows of sprouting onions, beets,
carrots, etc., once become green with wild turnip
and other rapid-growing intruders. Clean cultiva-
tion and slight hilling of plants set out are also
essential.

The Frames, These will not need so much atten-

CALENDAR 255

tion now, but care must be taken to guard tender
plants, such as tomatoes, egg-plant and peppers,
against sudden late frosts. The sash may be left
off most of the time. Water copiously and often.

Planting, outside. First part of the month: early
beans, early corn, okra and late potatoes may be
put in; and first tomatoes set out—even if a few
are lost—they are readily replaced. Finish setting
out cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower, beets, etc., from
frames. Latter part of month, if warm: corn, cu-
cumbers, some of sods from frames and early squash
as traps where late crop is to be planted or set.
Page 162.

Fruit. Be on time with first sprayings of late-
blossoming fruits—apples, etc. Rub off from
grape vines the shoots that are not wanted.

JUNE

Frequent, shallow cultivation!

Firm seeds in dry soil (facing p. 93). Plant wax
beans, lima beans, pole beams, melons, corn, etc.,
and successive crops of lettuce, radish, etc.

Top-dress growing crops that need special ma-
nure (such as nitrate of soda on onions). Prune
tomatoes, and cut out some foliage for extra early
tomatoes. Toward end of month set celery and
late cabbage. Also sow beans, beets, corn, etc., for
early fall crops. Spray where necessary. Allow
asparagus to grow to tops,

256 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

Fruit. Attend to spraying fruit trees and cur-
rants and gooseberries. Make pot-layers of straw-
berries for July setting. Page 227.

JULY

Maintain frequent, shallow cultivation. Set out
late cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, leeks and celery.
Sow beans, beets, corn, etc., for late fall crops. Irri-
gate where needed.

Fruit. Pinch back new canes of blackberry, dew-
berry and raspberry. Rub off second crop of buds
on grapes. Thin out if too many bunches; also on
plums, peaches and other fruit too thick, or touch-
ing. Pot-layered strawberries may be set out.

AUGUST

Keep the garden clean from late weeds—espe-
cially purslane, the hot-weather weed pest, which
should be always removed from the garden and
burned or rotted down.

Sow spinach, rutabaga turnip, bush beans and
peas for last fall crop. During first part of month,
late celery may still be put out. Sow lettuce for
early fall crop, in frames. First lot of endive should
be tied up for blanching.

Fruit. Strawberries may be set, and pot-layered
plants, if wanted to bear a full crop the following
season (see page 228), should be put in by the 15th
Thin out and bag grapes (page 246).

CALENDAR 257

SEPTEMBER

Frames, Set in lettuce started in August. Sow
radishes and successive crop of lettuce. Cooler
weather begins to tell on late-planted crops. Give
cabbage, cauliflower, etc., deeper cultivation. “Han-
dle” celery wanted for early use (page 122).

Harvest and store onions (page 178). Get squash
under cover before frost. From the 15th to 25th
sow spinach, onions, borecole for wintering over.
Sow down thickly to rye all plots as fast as cleared
of summer crops; or plow heavy land in ridges.
Attend to draining.

Fruit. Trees may be set. Procure barrels for
storing fruit in winter. At harvest time it is often
impossible to get them at any price.

OCTOBER

Get ready for winter. Blanch rest of endive.
Bank celery, to be used before Christmas, where it
is. Gather tomatoes, melons, etc., to keep as long
as possible. Keep especially clean and well culti-
vated all crops to be wintered over. Late in the
month store cabbage and cauliflower; also beets, car-
rots, and other root crops. Get boxes, barrels, bins,
sand or sphagnum moss ready beforehand, to save
time in packing.

Clean the garden; store poles, etc,, worth keeping

N

258 Home VEGETABLE GARDENING

over; burn everything else that will not rot; and
compost everything that will.

Fruit. Harvest apples, etc. Pick winter pears
just before hard frosts, and store in dry dark place.

NOVEMBER

Frames. Make deep hotbeds for winter lettuce
and radishes. Construct frames for use next spring
(page 75). See that vegetables in cellar, bins, and
sheds are safe from freezing. Trench or store celery
for spring use. Take in balance of all root crops
if any remain in the ground, except, of course, pars-
nip and salsify for spring use. Put rough manure
on asparagus and rhubarb beds. Get mulch ready
for spinach, etc., to be wintered over, if they occupy
exposed locations.

Fruit. Obtain marsh or salt hay for mulching
strawberries. Cut out old wood of cane-fruits—
blackberries, etc., if not done after gathering fruit.
Look over fruit trees for borers.

DECEMBER

Cover celery stored last month, if trenched out-
of-doors. Use only light, loose material at first,
gradually covering for winter. Put mulch on
spinach, etc.

Fruit. Mulch strawberries. Prune grape-vines
(see page 242); make first application of winter
sprays for fruit trees,

CALENDAR 259

AND THEN

set about procuring manures of all kinds from every
available source. Remember that anything which
will rot will add to the value of your manure pile.
Muck, lime, old plastering, sods, weeds (earth and
all), street, stable and yard sweepings—all these
and numerous others will increase your garden suc-
cesses of next year,

CuapTErR XX
CONCLUSION

T is with a feeling in which there is something
of fear that I close these pages—fear that
many of those little things which become sec-

ond nature to the grower of plants and seem unim-
portant, but which sometimes are just the things that
the beginner wants to know about, may have been
inadvertently left out. In every operation described,
however, I have tried to mention all necessary de-
tails. I would urge the reader, nevertheless, to study
as thoroughly as possible all the garden problems
with which he will find himself confronted and to
this end recommend that he read several of the many
garden books which are now to be had. It must
be to his advantage to see even the same subjects
presented again from other points of view. The
more familiar he can make himself, both in theory
and in practice, with all the multitude of “opera-
tions which modern gardening involves, the greater
success will he attain.

Personally, the further I have gone into the grow-

(260)

CONCLUSION 261

ing of things—and that has now become my busi-
ness as well as my pleasure—the more absorbingly,
interesting I find it. Each season, each crop, offers
its own problems and a reward for the correct solu-
tion of them. It is a work which, even to the begin-
ner, presents the opportunity of deducting new
conclusions, trying new experiments, making new
discoveries. It is a work which offers pleasant and
healthy recreation to the many whose days must be,
for the most part, spent in office or shop; and it
gives very substantial help in the world-old problem
of making both ends meet.

Let the garden beginner be not disappointed if
he does not succeed, for the first season or two, or
possibly three, with everything he plants. There is
usually a preventable reason for the failure, and
studious observation will reveal it. With the mod-
ern success in the application of insecticides and
fungicides, and the extension of the practice of irri-
gation, the subject of gardening begins to be re-
duced to a scientific and (what is more to the point)
a sure basis. We are getting control of the uncer-
tain factors. All this affects first, perhaps, the
person who grows for profit, but with our present
wide circulation of every new idea and discovery in
such matters, it must reach soon to every remote
home garden patch which is cared for by a wide-
awake gardener.

262 HoMe VEGETABLE GARDENING

Such a person, from the fact that he or she is
reading a new garden book, I take the reader to be.
I hope this volume, condensed though it is, has
added to your fund of practical garden information ;
that it will help to grow that proverbial second
blade of grass. I have only to add, as I turn again
to the problems waiting for me in field and under
glass, that I wish you all success in your work—the

making of better gardens in America.

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