Lz ZL ZL Zi Zee ZZ LL eevee Yih ZZ LZ ZZ Wit ZZ aa oN _ aR ~ ( Zz iT Zz ZZ ZZ Zz Aah 0 a ‘ ee CZ LLL ZZ thi ALLL ZZ tlie ZL LLL ZZ YY ay C. New York State College of Agriculture At QGornell University Ithara, N. Y. Library Cornell University Library SB 356.B94 Frui t 3 far ii A 1924 003 362 674 Cornell University The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003362674 FRUIT FARMING FOR PROFIT BY GEORGE BUNYARD, V.M.H. Fruit Farming for Profit (REVISED TO 1911) A practical treatise embracing chapters on all the most profitable Fruits, with DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS For SUCCESSFUL COMMERCIAL CULTURE ON THE KENT SYSTEM GEORGE BUNYARD, Chairman of the Fruit Committee, Royal Horticultural Society, and Member of Council ; . Expert at Chiswick and Edinboro’ Fruit Conferences ; Master of the Fruiterers’ Company of London, 1906; éc., dc. (For 50 years Manager of the Maidstone Nurseries). SIXTH EDITION. Maidstone : VivisH & Baker, GENERAL Printers, 28, Kinc Street. PRICE 2s. 6p.; oR FREE BY POST 2s. 9p. CopyriGHT.—ENTERED AT STATIONERS HALL.) (a SBBE6 aa Genes | Chapter. Page, Introductory Remarksy..siiiesscsesoissavereraravernsecnaveeseseses 1 I. Choice of Situation—Soil—Shelter ...........0.. cece eee 11 II. Cultivation and Manuring ..................:cecseeccee cece esse eeeeee 16 III. Setting-out and Planting.................:ccccseceecceeeeeeeeeeeenseeees 23 IV. Pruning in Commercial Fruit Culture..................eeeeee 34 V. Apples—Table and Kitchen: wiscisoscnsecrmmscoever va axeorwe 56 VI. $i Kor Profit-—-R.H-Sy Paper snc.gseeeceeep en sesevyes 67 VII. Plums, Damsons and Bullaces ................eceeececeeeeeeeneeeeees 74 WATTS > SPOAYS ce) seioteint st pemsmatondcamadncaisamanmssusuneaginnngeweaurecasempeatessne 79 ER 6 CHEPTIOS! icine cen viiaidanaseinsigilensea soi asnnadaus suka biedeahiehtovinndmactondas 83 K “Walnutsvand Chestnuts: cicciccnswscevecaniccniieu cars cases eyes 87 MI. Gooseberries: sescssscievoscspusieie-nawersecavenweeesstaunensewewsravesnen 88 XII. Red and Black Currants .............:.cccccsccecesnecnessececeseneenes 91 XITI. Kent Cob Nuts and Filberts ...............cccecceeeeceec ese neseeeeeee 93 XIV. Strawberries and R.H.S. Paper.............:..ccccsseereeeeceeeeenee 95 SOV). FREUD BED ees csicccicinniscss sea tairwanmnanemarivtrsein sents reateinaacten seinepnantemancments XVI. Raspberries XVII. Extra Fruits—Grapes, Peaches, Figs, etc. ......... xe LEO XVIII. Purchase of Trees, and Propagation..... 117 XIX. Prices of Trees, Bushes, and Plants.. 122 XX. Packing for Market ....... 126 XXI. Gathering and Storing.... 136 XXII. Profits and Expenses ............... .. 140 XXIII. Insects, Diseases, and Enemies... 148 XXIV. Future of Fruit Growing and Market Weights ... 180 XXV. Labelling and Fruit Naming ................:c.c:seeeee 196 XXVI. The R.H.S. Fruit Conference & Lord Onslow’s Committee. 198 . Summary of Year’s Work CONTENTS: Append: axawegcews aes weetwancpeeenineatejes . comeatwens .canaenmace setae eee INDEX ITO ADVERTISERS, Pare “The Kentish Express and Ashford News") ......cc:cccssceseesceseee nee ils The Insect and other allied Pests—Their Prevention and Treatment—F red. V. Theobald, M.A. ...........ceccccceenceeeeeeeeees ii. Insecticides — Corey CO2 Tt... sicscemiasisdsnesanciemadancidecmmemancwaiidi iii. Victa Tree Grease—Howard Chapman .............sc:cesseeseseseeere vere rvs Abol Fruit Tree Wash—E. A. White, Ltd. ...........cccccseceeceseeeees Nis Woburn Bordeaux Paste, etc.—Walter Voss « Co., Ltd. ............ vi. Fruit Tree Pruners—Coppin & Sons Spraying Machinery—Drake & Fletcher Reliable Salesmen :— G. J. Bedford-—Champion Bros.—R. Thurlow & Sons ......... ix.-X. Fruit Growers’ Specialities—G. Mence Smith Xi. Kent. Insuraneé Conipany® spssuenannnamey semen tteedsaus sauce iedagenae Xi. ASAPH ES PRONG saree secrets caiti eaWE ahs clade aaitianaistideamamsmasemamiaceinse Xi. SAB Gui bas term GAZE Cle 51552725 anc aeauatiaaeiiedd smelt eseeininanwaremtueaiiens ili. ““Kent Messenger & Maidstone Telegraph ”’ ............0..025 6. ceeeeees ili. Vermorel’s Eclair Knapsack Sprayers—Cooper, Pegler & Co. ...... 1% Bee Hives, etc.—C. T. Overton & Sons .............. » sNuonrerapsnieys EVE Erait Exhibitions :c«:sese-ceesusnsoneeasereveunmess eaeeeenekveaSaawaealnsasvane aa a Drete=-Gegese Buriyard Cui Gite, crass exnasmscadcnmamiaasaawon XVii. INGOs aT DM BOGUIC AGB excc cam oansu cc. s calrsmiantaaldinmsuanasmadmnsianawmecteions XVI. Fruit Farming Adviser ” + Literature PREFACE TO THE SIXTH EDITION. N preparing another edition of this book, I have again to record remarkable progress in the Fruit industry throughout Britain. Old ideas are giving way rapidly to modern systems, and although the main points of my first edition in 1881 are still reliable, we have recently learnt so much that is valuable and of practical importance, that the present edition is entirely revised, so as to bring it up to date in every particular. The new facts brought out by the interesting Conference held by the Royal Horticultural Society, and the important conclusions arrived at by the Parliamentary Enquiry or Commission, instituted by Lord Onslow, before which I had the honour of being summoned, are herein enumerated. The published Journals relating to these meetings are well worth study by all interested in fruit culture. (For notes see Chapter X XVI.) The steady demand for this little brochure continues, and, the last edition being exhausted, I have en- deavoured to bring together the latest information available in the present work, and have carefully revised and reduced the lists of sorts and given fuller hints on spraying and insect pests than before. The importance ot some operations has induced me to repeat them again and again, that they may not escape notice. I offer this new edition to that generous public, who have shown their appreciation of my former endeavours to help on the better culture of hardy fruit in these Islands, and to inculcate such modes of treatment as shall enable British growers not only to hold their own, but to compete favourably with imports from abroad. GEORGE BUNYARD, V.M.H. The Royal Nurseries, Maidstone, Kent. INTRODUCTION. RITICS may still ask “Do you not think that fruit culture will be overdone? and in view of blights, spring frosts, and occasional gluts of produce, are you still justified in advising an extension of the industry ?” The author’s reply is, that, living as he does in the greatest fruit-growing County, and being in touch with the largest growers elsewhere, he is still perfectly convinced that there is room for extension, but on modern lines. He would advocate the ‘“ Kentish system,” which may be stated briefly as intelligent fruit cultivation, as distinguished from the old system of fruit planting at hazard. One fact alone will answer all pessimists. It is this: the largest growers — keen, hardworking, business men, who would be the first to feel lessening demand or the fall of prices below a paying scale—are yearly and _ constantly enlarging their acreage; and as they number their soft fruit produce by tons, and hard fruits by thousands of bushels, their action furnishes a complete reply. But new growers must approach the business on modern methods—paying attention to the smallest details; cultivating those kinds that by name command market value; adopting the best system of grading, and endeavour to build up a reputation for honest packing and high quality; growing but few kinds and doing them well. B 2 FRUIT FARMING One incident will suffice to bring out the author’s meaning. He visited a Scottish market, which was well attended by buyers, where the custom is for apples to be packed in one cwt. barrels. The inferior lots were first offered, and in many cases “turn ‘em out’’ came from the crowd. This cry was justified ; as bruised and under-sized fruits were mixed with good examples, and consequently sold at low prices. Then the auctioneer shouted ‘‘now we come to A. and B.’s fruit—you all know about that!” Bidding at once became brisk, and from these growers, fruit of the same varieties in many cases fetched three times as much as the first lots offered. This shows the advantage of quality and honesty. Had the growers of the inferior fruits sorted out the small and badly formed apples, and only marketed the best, they would have realized more money for them than they did for a bulk perhaps one third larger. e@97 ers ‘S's oe S35 Ses Ree oe An elt camrc ae a 93 ~?PFreFeFF>F DDFVFTFR BERD? > 3399 5 » 32 839 3 5 8d 7 232 ¢ > Pod DS SS ai ais ele ee a . 3 . a a 8. 1 22 2 ee See OY Dw OP eRe em Sil i Se ee SS ee ee eee ee yang Sry age as ? ee) >? > 5 ed oe ee Be Pe oO > Ss 9 303 ale pe, 8 Se 237924, 9 >39 2 Pk d QP eH DY SRO nnn 27 a #5 SPF dD a a ay ae Sea oS ge s+ So + Se ow PPE ee ees 2 9.% 3 ° S ae 5: a3 Pe ae aie ag or > ree a eee ay ora es a3 ae > Nae xo 2d 2 ms wa GSS LY ee 393 ares 2983>s3 9? 3a 98953933 93593 3 ee ee ae oe eo ee i ee i ie ee eo > 2 Se An > 2? @ 5 R35 35_% > Ss > a ee 343333 ‘eo? P29 D2 FBG SZ VY S~ > a> 32S a> 236 > 9 @ B 7399? 8 § 9 so 66 eg 27> 9S » eee | ’ oft. 5 LANTATION.= Stundircds or Half Stundards at 1 Bushes wt Sft. apart. 3 ‘Trocn and abort 1800 Bushes per acre, 1h Eee on ss4 st e/a ats 3 Sos > su star J suse sts! gt! yw {Pugh SH SS Hs oH Tho os she ah oa ok os | SYR SI BIS RY ys! ZI gQU HY WS SI a a a ot a oh Z/3s 54 54 34 S454 54 B44 ar Zt QI St | ER: ae PLAN No. 3. ebo bebe bebe te Ge ae ie oe ae bw ae) 2» 26 BIG NEES EONS: Pyramid or Bush Apples left, apart, with Soft Fruit at 6ft. BOO Bush ‘Treos and S20 Currants, ete, per acre, 27 4, PLAN No. Pred >s> 2 PREV ST = RS VAPVS Ze PVT TST PT SSH PLT ee HHS F227 2272725753 ae ae er Be a ae sa2 ees ies 2S} >s (CLARE Ae RAE RT NOLES ee PPS Pease FFB B>s5 x2 FF eee eer Se > BPzPPD Seay ee ST SPS TPP POA aS ees se TP ST Se FSS HSS HTS eBVVWSD Ses So a Se oS oS a ee eS ee mw ShO Des BePBBaeera sr >ddsapr SerPx=ovzasertbsrrracs rez ever ss ase ese THsess DWP ew. SSeS EPP ET SVAS eR Tes Sees rser arr eepvpas es es esse eseseT> Por rsrapPoa Ee rr eee ee ee eee ee ee PTR ar PSPe RE TSS SRR SSP S Sa DT FP se wee KS ep r Sere SSS ees SF SBSSS BDH HPSS 2 3 8s * 8 FS 7 2 8 Oe PF FS 2d FP > DT BS oe e SB eB eS Ss | 3 3: Ss: > :3-°?>3- aS 2S 2 > a 2 a y oe @ eA F 2 FF 3d dF 2 8 3 SF FS BF F Fd FS > FF SF FS 3B 8 Be Dd FD ee2e% 3 @€ 83 3 3 de @ > FS B23 8 3 88 9B 3 33a BAS a BA +. > 2> >> .>- >_> »>- >>- Ss >> a > 2 8 59> 6 ® 833 82 8 3B PP FF 8 TDR. SF 9B}.F dT F#F FH 39 TBD DD ». 8 > $ ¢@ pe 2 3} 3 ® 9 B 6 a 3 i uv ee ae et Soe de SMR PT ae ka weve + ke os omy eer powsoo a ee) eu eee Ce a aus eed OR rer ePveD amd acd v99 1 Qo oh a2d aoF vo ced cede ed sod ova vey or ZasQ o19 ocd 20d ot} ood v93 on3 ory org reg e-s reget or Raspberries and Strawberries between. HOME PLANTATION.—Standard Apples or Plums 18ft., with Bushes, 132 Standard Trees and about 200 Gooseberries, 2000 Strawberries, and 500 Raspberries per acre. 28 FRUIT FARMING Care of Trees received in frost.—Should any trees ordered come to hand during frost or snow, they may (without unpacking) be placed in a warm cellar or frost-proof house till the return of suitable weather for planting, and will then take no harm. Trees should not be allowed to have their roots dried by the wind or sun during the planting. In planting, the small fibres should be well spread out, and the coarse roots be slightly shortened with a sharp knife, and any roots injured in lifting should be cut away, by holding the root in the left hand, and making a clean cut from the underside. In rich soil, no manure need be put in contact with the roots at planting time, but a thin mulching on the surface (about 3-ft. circle round the stem) will be very beneficial if applied at planting time or in the spring. The root fibres should be well enveloped in fine soil, and the tree be staked at once for standard orchard trees. The soil should be made quite firm in planting, but the surface should be of loose soil. Two upright stakes are preferable to a single one, or three may be placed at an angle. These stakes should be of ash, chestnut, oak, or bamboo. Never plant trees deeply, it is safer to err at the other extreme. If the soil is wet, plant on the surface, and make a mound over the roots of the tree. Should the soil be poor, some well decayed manure should be mixed with it at planting time. To save expense, fruit trees are frequently planted in holes, which of course is the only plan on grass, but the cultivator would be amply repaid by having all land intended for plantations cither steam cultivated or trenched. In the case of holes dug in a wet soil, they become so many traps tor the water; and if the FOR FROFIT. 29 soil is not particularly good the roots do not penetrate beyond the original hole, and trees come to grief in a few years. On light lands dig out a round hole 3 feet over, and about 1} to 2 feet deep, break up the bottom with a mattock, make a little mound in the centre of the hole, then place the tree upon this ; if the roots then reach beyond the circle, a cut with the spade is made to receive them; the tree is then lifted out and the hole is then levelled to such a height that when the tree is replaced (the mark place where the stem has been on the ground level before) is four inches de/ow the level, then throw some fine soil upon the roots; the tree should then be shaken up and down to settle the soil round the lower roots, the upper roots are then lifted by hand, again spread out, more soil is added, the tree is again slightly shaken, and the collar mark allowed to remain two inches aéove the level, fine soil is shovelled in, this should then be trodden down firmly, beginning at the outside edge of the hole, and finishing in the centre, using great care not to bruise the roots. The hole is then neatly filled in, and the collar will generally be found a little above the level, but after the winter settling this will not be noticed. These remarks refer to standard, half-standard, and bush or pyramidal trees. In a few years this original hole may be extended by digging round it, to assist the trees to make fresh roots if they do not grow satisfactorily. For Currants and other bush fruit so much care is not required, but in no case should the roots be deeply buried. There are three ways of applying manure when planting, two being wrong. The first and worst 30 FRUIT FARMING method is to place it at the bottom of the hole. This starts the trees into growth for a short time, but as soon as the roots are through the layer of manure and strike the subsoil, unhealthiness is bound to set in. The second wrong way is to put too thick a surface layer round the tree stem after planting. As rains come, the action of water filtering through manure, renders the land hard and unkindly, and if left so it will in time become so caked as to throw off the summer rains, leaving the young tree to perish of drought. The right way is to almost finish plant- ing without manure, leaving the hole wanting three inches of soil to raise it to proper height; then apply two inches of well-rotted farmyard manure, covering this with one inch of soil. In this way nutriment is given gradually to the roots; the natural moisture in the soil is sufficient to allow the roots to benefit by it, even in dry weather; and instead of making the surface hard and cakey, it renders it beautifully friable, and will materially assist working the hoes to keep down weeds in the following summer. Bearing in mind that the surface fibres are those that nourish fruit, it is advisable that these be encouraged. The chief mischief accruing to young trees arises from too deep planting, and striking of the larger roots into a badly drained or unsuitable subsoil, causing canker, and apparently healthy trees may die back wholesale. In a mild winter the sap scarcely leaves the tree, when the branches being charged with moisture, a severe and sudden frost ruptures the cellular tissue, and perhaps the damage is not seen until some months after, when the points of the shoots die back, and even main branches split; such trees FOR PROFIT. qr then make a mass of small shoots from the main branches, which should be thinned out in August, or the result will be more disastrous. It is hoped that we may not often experience a zero winter’s tempera- ture. It is not surprising that under such circumstances fruit trees should suffer, when Poplars, Hazel, Elms, and Chestnuts are crippled. MARKET TREES REQUIRED PER ACRE. 1210 at 6-ft. apart, for Pyramid Pears on Quince stocks, or Apples on Paradise stocks (where the trees are to be thin- ned to 12-ft. in a few years). 1742 ,, 5-ft. ,, ,, Lancashire Lad Gooseberries. 1210 ,, 6-ft. ,, ». Gooseberries and Red Currants. 680 ,, 8-ft. ,, ,, Black Currants. Some growers now plant on the six years’ system—6-ft. between the rows and 3-ft. from tree to tree, destroying the trees if they take the ‘‘ Big-bud”’ or become unfruitful. 302 ,, 12-ft. , ,, Permanent Bush or Pyramid Trees and Cob Nuts. 193 5, 1§-ft. ,, 4, Standard Plums, Damsons, May Duke or Kentish Red Cherries. 132 ,, 18-ft. ,, , ditto. 108 ,, 20-ft. ,, ,, Apples, Pears, etc., as Standards. 75 5, 24-ft. ,, ,, ditto, or the moderate growing Cherries. 48 ,, 30-ft. ,, ,, Strong growing Cherries, where pastured underneath. 36 ,, 40-ft. ,, 4, Strong Cherries, or the largest spreading Apples. Strawberries for market require (about) at 1-ft. 43,000, 14-ft. 19,350 2-ft. 11,000 per acre. In the foot planting the alternate plants are ploughed up the second and third year, leaving the plantation 2-ft. apart each way. 32 FRUIT FARMING In forming Orchards, the several distances that trees are planted will be found in the foregoing table. Orchards are best in square fields, as long narrow plots of Cherries are difficult to tend to keep off birds. If Cherries are selected, the distance being great, the intermediate space may be filled either with the early fruiting Apples and Pears of moderate or upright growth, or Plums and Damsons, which can be removed when the Cherries require the space. Cherries are best on grass land. The same remark as to distance holds good as regards the larger growing Apples and Pears; and there is one matter to which particular attention is called, viz., the very different rate at which trees progress. Unless this is borne in mind at planting, some parts of the orchard will be over-crowded, and others will be too thin. If an entire Apple or Pear orchard is required, the rows should be alternated. Some are widely spreading trees, others take a conical form: thus, if a row of a kind be planted, the orchard presents that even and regular appearance which allows the sun full play. To assist planters, the growth of each kind is stated in the lists of varieties. Experience further teaches us that large blocks of one kind do not fruit freely, because cross fertilization with another kind is absolutely essential to fertility. Strawberries are planted with a dibble, a flat one being preferable; they must be well closed at the base of the roots, or they are liable to be lifted by frost. March is considered the best month to do the work, but the plants must be ordered, as most yrowers clean off their Strawberry lands and kill all the young plants as soon as the fruit is wathered, and they may FOR PROFIT, 33 not have plants left in March. The land used for these must be cleaned, and heavily manured previously. Care should in all cases be taken to plant the lines Straight, as it facilitates horse work. Avoid contract planting, of which the following is a sample :—We had to take in hand an orchard in East Kent that had failed, and on removing the dead trees we found that in order to make a sightly job, the planter had sunk the tall trees deeply in the ground to make the heads come level; he literally dug graves for them. The trees were a bad lot to start with, being all heights and sizes.—Contract for holeing it you wish, fixing the area and depth they are to he made. As regards the time for planting: for all fruits November is undoubtedly the best month, as there is yet a little sap in the trees, which, on returning to the roots, assists in giving the tree a start, and helps to heal root wounds from lifting, the tree is thus placed in the best possible position for success. On the other hand, planting may be done all through the winter in open weather, starting in November, and as late as March, the main point being to secure the ground in good working order; and if much planting is to be done, valuable time will be saved by having stakes, yarns, hay bands, etc., ready for use. Soft fruits (Currants, Gooseberries, etc.), may even be planted the end of October, and it is surprising what roots these make before Christmas if they can be settled thus early. For further particulars see Chapter IV. 34 FRUIT FARMING CHAPTER IV. PRUNING IN COMMERCIAL FRUIT CULTURE. A Paper vead at the Rochester Farmers’ Club by Mr. George Bunyard, V.M.H. (revised). The Object of Pruning.—This operation is designed to assist nature in the production of superior fruit; which, by reducing the quantity of fruiting spurs and excess branches, enables the tree to concentrate its vital energy on a fewer number of buds, to their better individual development. Further than this, a skilful pruner leaves all fruit buds in the best possible position to catch the sun and air, with a view of obtaining not only increased size in the fruit, but to ensure that high colour and perfect ripeness which such exposure alone can produce. All growers know that fruit from the inside of a tree is not so highly developed or coloured as that from the outside. Thus a careful man will operate with a view to create a natural balance between roots and branch, so that each tree may produce a yearly crop, and not, as when left unpruned, a heavy crop in one year and none the next, because the tree requires a year’s rest to recover itself. .\ story is told that the owner of a small garden had two standard apples that produced a heavy crop every other year, and my grandfather advised him to cut off the blossom from one at flowering time, after which he had a crop every year. The exhaustion of a tree FOR FROFIT. 35 by an overcrop is emphasized by the fact that most early fruits (whether Apples, Pears, or Plums) are as a rule more regular bearers than later kinds, because the tree has time to recover its lost power between the gathering of the crop and the fall of the leaf, when nature’s repose comes on. Evidently, therefore, it is on these lines that rational pruning should be done. In dealing with this subject from a grower’s point of view, we are naturally at once met with the cost of the operation, and it is here that we are at a disadvantage compared with the cheap labour of the Continent; but I would suggest that growers should teach their sons to look after this most interesting operation, and I am sure they would enjoy it, as I did looking after our orchard some years ago. The next point is:—How to go to work. I can remind you that, in dealing with some fruits, growers are already on the right track as cultivators, but I want to see the system extended. Take, for example, your Red Currants and Gooseberries after pruining; a novice would at once say you had ruined them entirely, whereas you know by experience that your berries are twice as large as when the trees are unpruned, and your Currants, too, are larger in the berry and longer in the bunch, while, in some cases, you summer-prune as well, to let in the sun to ripen the wood. If this pays in the case of the small soft fruits, it will also pay in the case of the harder “top” fruit; and you all know too well that it is the best samples from reputed growers which command the highest price; under-sized fruits and spotted samples really bring down the value of an entire crop. In a warm summer 36 FRUIT FARMING on trees or bushes thus treated, your fruit would be super-excellent; and in a wet or cold season, what you produced would be much larger and clearer in the skin than from neglected trees. Again, in the case of Raspberries, you cut off 2 to 4 feet of the canes, certainly to save staking on the one hand, but also because you get much larger cones, and jam makers do not like Raspberries that are all seeds, as they must be if left uncut. In neglected gardens, Gooseberries are not one-fourth the size of those from properly pruned plantations. The most forcible example is that of the Cob Nut as pruned in Kent. The tree appears a miserable object after the cutter has done his work, but as the result proves, a better crop and far larger nuts are produced than on trees not pruned; in fact, if allowed to grow as they like the nuts are but a trifle larger than those called Barcelona in the shops. Again, why is wall fruit so much finer than that from the open? Because such trees must be pruned to keep them in position, and moreover, the spurs are always (in properly cared-for gardens) thinned out and naturally all face one way to catch the sun, and have the additional benefit of the radiation of heat from the wall to assist in the ripening of the wood. Having given you, perhaps, too much theory, I will now proceed to indicate how I would recommend the pruning to be done on young trees, say séandurd and half-standard Pears and Apples. In planting, all that is necessary is to cut off any injured roots, and then to shorten back slightly the lower anchor-like roots, taking care to cut in closely the tap root, as well as those that have a distinctly downward tendency, always cutting from the under side. Pears have fewer roots FOR PROFIT. ay than Apples, and must not be cut so severely. The tree should then have its head examined, the planter holding it so that he can, as it were, look it in the face on a line with the trunk. He will then see at a glance if there are more shoots than are required to form a symmetrical head, by preference he retains 3, 5, or 7 shoots, placed at equal distances, like the spokes of a wheel. I mean if we get seven, so much the better, but it is, for the purpose of foundation, preferable to have even three at a regular distance between each other, than to have four or five, the balance of which is uneven. All surplus shoots must be cut clean away, and the rest should not be cut or tipped. After a summer's growth (in February by preference, avoiding frosty weather), this head is to be cut back rather severely, leaving, say five or six eyes at the base, but cutting so that the end bud is left pointing outwards at the extremity. From this cutting several shoots will issue, and in July the pruner should go over his trees and cut back (leaving only one inch of wood) those that are in the middle of the tree, preserving at their full length all those that form a head like an inverted umbrella. The following February these are again shortened; but this time allow about six inches of the new wood, and continue the operation for a few years, leaving 9 to 12 inches for extension; the trees will begin to bear on the old wood in the third year. Keep the centre of the trees thinned out winter and summer, and do not allow too many shoots to encumber the tree, but prune so that all main branches hang free and do not cross each other. Possibly, in a few more years, some branches may be cut away with advantage, as there will be 38 FRUIT FARMING stronger ones taking the lead, which, provided they are in proper places, may be allowed to go ahead. I consider this severe pruning necessary at first, because some Apples and Pears, if left uncut, form a mass of frnit buds, come into bearing, and never afterwards get beyond a mop-sized head. Some plums have the same tendency. Stding.—Feathered trees and young half-standards are greatly assisted in strength and vigour, if some of the side shoots on the main stem are left on for a few years. Cautton.—A word against the treatment generally meted out to young trees, both bush fruits and standards, in the matter of pruning. Given a tree of say two or three years’ growth that has made a good start in life, your average cutter will prune it just the same, that is to say he will cut rather more than half the current year’s shoots away for the first three or four years of its existence. In this way the tree is certainly kept healthy, but it practically does nothing more than make wood, and far too much of that, so year by year the cutter has more superflous wood to take out, and this treatment forces the tree to make renewed efforts at wood growing. If the young tree, instead of being cut so hard—(the hard cutting is necessary for two years, but no longer)—is allowed to carry a much greater length of its year’s growth, say two-thirds in place of a quarter, it will at once commence forming bloom-buds, and the vear tollowing will probably bear a little fruit. At the same time, if treated well in the matter of manure, it will also make plenty of new growth to continue building up the foundation of a yood tree. The foregoing is what FOR PROFIT. 39 one might describe as advice for general treatment, but it must be remembered that no two varieties of fruit have quite similar habits, and the grower must exercise discretion to a great extent in their manage- ment. For instance, Apples like Lane’s Prince Albert, Stirling Castle, etc., are such prolific croppers that unless they are heavily pruned every year they make no new wood growth. On the other hand Bramley’s, Newton Wonder, etc., make such vigorous shoots that it is best, as soon as a tree has shaped out a little, to cease cutting it altogether, merely regulating the growth by removing superflous branches. The pruner must himself learn to distinguish between sorts and the treatment they require, for it is just the care bestowed in matters of this kind that makes for success. With Plums (from the nature of their roots) if planting is completed before Christmas, they may be pruned the first season of planting, but if planted after that time it is better to allow them to wait one year. Their after attention is the same as that advised for Pears and Apples, but as they grow more freely, they need not be cut back so severely, as they form a head rapidly. In planting Cherries, I strongly advise planters to let them stand the first year without cutting at all, excepting. the roots, as advised for apples. In the following February cut the heads back as required, after which, the less “knifing” done on them the better, merely removing the crossing boughs. The management of Bush or Feathered Trees on the Crab stock will be the same as advised for standards, having regard to the form of tree desired, but as they 40 FRUIT FARMING are more protected from the wind, and the crop can be thinned, they may in pruning carry longer shoots than standards. Apples upon the Paradise stock may be cut back the first season if planted early. In all cases prune the roots as advised on the previous pages. Much controversy has arisen as to the wisdom of pruning or not, the first year of planting, but I am convinced that the system here advocated is the best for orchard and plantation work, where every tree cannot have that special attention which can be given in a garden. In Soft Fruzts, the prevailing custom of cutting them hard the first year cannot be improved upon; but in case of late planting (say February or March) the resulting shoots are so thin and sappy that it may be best to let them stand a year to establish themselves before pruning. It is most desirable that they should be planted before December, as in that case the rootlets push and get a firm hold of the soil before winter sets in. In planting Raspberries for market, they must be shortened, before planting, to about 2 feet. Old Trcves.—I now come to a more important point in prwwing, namely, that of old and neglected trees, which are far too prevalent, and where faggots must be taken out to make any impression on the mass of useless wood they contain. In dealing with such examples, one need be very careful, for it is well known that where large boughs are sawn off, the remaining end of the bough will sometimes rot away and decay, and in that case the tree suffers loss by heavy-laden boughs giving way at a weak spot. | am of opinion that it would be well not to cut these so FOR PROFIT. 41 close to the main stems and branches as is usually done, but about 6 inches from the stem, and that after the saw has been used, the surface should be planed over and the edges be rounded and smoothed with a knife, so that new bark can creep over and cover the wound. All Old Orchards have trees with holes in them —the favourite nesting places of the starling and tom-tit. The wood decays, and the woodpecker first starts the aperture by searching for its food, and other birds take the opportunity to nest where they can readily make room in the soft spongy wood. All shoots sawn off over half-an-inch across should be rounded in the way indicated, and I strongly recommend that this pruning should be done as soon as the fruit ts gathered, as the bark then makes some progress to cover the wound the same season, and the air being dry, the exposed wound hardens ‘so to speak heals) more than in the winter; and moreover, the shoots that are dead and leafless can be detected much more readily than when the leaf falls. J must repeat that all this severe pruning should be done in the long days of summer or autumn. Especially should all broken and split boughs be removed from Plums where injured by ladders or an over-crop. I have heard of trees being severely injured by being pruned in a heavy frost, when the men could not work on the land, but I cannot say that it is always so. In pruning these “old stagers,” it is not advisable to tip the branches, as the most lively wood, which draws the sap up freely, is on the points, and they nourish the tree. 42 FRUIT FARMING The next point which I think worth a trial on a large scale is the thinning of fruit spurs on old trees. I submit a fruiting branch of the old Yorkshire Apple, the “Cockpit” (a free bearer, but too small for profit here). When these trees bear, I have half the fruit taken off, but although that makes the fruit finer I am now thinning the spurs so that they may be larger still, and I am persuaded that if half the spurs were taken from our old orchard trees, which is easy work with a tool like the one I am using (see page 46;, we should get much finer fruit, and these spurs if cut about an inch from the stem, would in some cases throw out other spurs, which in time would enable us to prune out those left in the former cutting, and thus we should have perpetual youth on the head of an ancient body. Pears are most profuse in the way they spur, and some kinds bear so freely that they are not inaptly said to crop “like ropes of onions.” In the case of Plums it is the same. The “ Diamond” would bear more freely if half its spurs were taken out; and the “ Victoria,” under this treatment, would not be so liable to break as it does from carrying such heavy crops. ‘‘ Jefferson” again is a mass of spurs; in fact, even in winter, an expert can tell the names of leafless trees by the form of the spurs, and the way they set on the branches. In removing what I may term surplus spurs, those found on the zndersedes of the branches are of little value; and if I say, negatively, that the pruner should retain all spurs in the best positions, and remove the rest, you will get an idea how to work. The Crittenden or Cluster Damson is one which makes a mass of thorny spurs; these require thinning, as, if left too FOR PROFIT. 43 thickly on the boughs, the fruit is very small, and you will have noticed that trees from suckers are much more inclined to thorn than those budded, which take more of the Plum nature, and they are much more liable to Aphis blight when the heads are crowded. The King Pippin and Manx Codlin Apples, for example, are very fruitful trees, and I know that those who prune them on the spur system, and shorten all the young growths, defy the inevitable canker which affects these sorts. These closely pruned trees grow marvellous fruit, which sells at a price that pays for extra labour expended. I can scarcely leave the subject of pruning without reference to the Kentish Cob Nut, which requires more pruning than any other fruit. Our Kent men use Saynor’s Sheath Knives, No. 185, for this work. When received from the growers, Cob trees have a small head upon a steam of 12 to 15 inches, this stem is intentional, so that the ground beneath the bush may be the more readily kept free from weeds and be dug. They are planted as received, and must be allowed to grow for one year, when they should be cut hard in, to make them throw out vigorous shoots from the base of the head to form the future tree; this is done by annually cutting, so that the next terminal shoot is made from an under bud, which in course of time makes a tree formed like a washing basin. I note the best shaped trees have started with six to be doubled to twelve main branches, from these a set of spurs or shoots are given off, on which the nuts are produced, and the trees should be so managed, that at the end of 100 years old they should be 15 or 20 feet across the top, but not higher than 54 feet 44 FRUIT FARMING from the ground. From the central portion of the main boughs a number of strony yearling shoots will be given off, which in Kent are called ‘ wands.” These are taken out in September, or partially so, for packing the autumn fruit, and in winter the rest are broken out, and either sold for flower sticks or basket making, or reserved to pack soft fruit the next season. The male or catkin blossoms are produced in February and March most freely at the upper part of the trees, and should be allowed to remain long enough before pruning to fertilize the minute red pistillate or female flowers, which are produced on the smaller boughs; should the weather be very still and warm it would pay to tap the boughs with a stick, to make the pollen fly. In the winter pruning, the spurs are thinned; old wood is removed and the stronger growths shortened and thinned, leaving the trees regularly balanced on all sides, and with free play for the air and sun among the branches, remembering that the foliage is large on pruned trees. If time permits in July and August, it is a great help to the strength of the tree to break the stronger shoots off the upper boughs with the finger and thumb (a sharp twist being all that is required), this plumps up the buds below the fracture, assists in ripening up the wood; this is found better than cutting, as the broken surface allows some sap to exude, which prevents the formation of a secondary growth, which would weaken the bush and be of no value to produce nuts. In winter pruning these broken ends are smoothly severed with a sharp knife. A careful pruner will proceed so that there is always abundance of fresh young wood in his Cobs, and when a twig shows signs of ave, he FOR PROFIT. 45 prunes so that a fresh young one shall succeed it in the next year’s cutting, so that worn out twigs are never seen in ancient trees. Suckers from the roots should be hoed off in growth or in winter be severed with a sharp spade, and if well rooted some may be reserved to make future plants. Some fair nuts are produced on trees 10 to 12 feet high, which have their spurs shortened in the same way as Espalier Apples, gaining a few inches of upward extension yearly at the top. It is worth consideration whether existing copses and covers could not advan- tageously be planted with these Nuts. The trees over head need not be removed; as in Kent, Apples, Pears and Plums frequently form a dense cover over Cob Nuts, and yet they produce, but naturally not so freely as those in more open quarters. A Photograph of a Kent Cob Nut 8 years old, summer and winter Winterfaspect of Cob Nut before Pruning. 46 FRUIT FARMING pruned, will give an idea of form, etc. In this example the longer top shoots will require pruning back to four eyes, and the side spray on the branches should be thinned where too thickly placed. Further information bearing on these subjects is given under the heading of planting, and in the chapters on the several fruits. For digging, Parkes’ 4 and 5 prong cast-steel forks for light land, and spuds of 3 prongs for heavy work, are used; the latter, as sold by ironmongers, are not well made, the local blacksmiths generally turn them out stronger. In Continental works on fruit culture much stress is laid on the tools used, and I have brought up a few which we find useful as labour-savers, and they are so simple that they explain themselves. 1. Coppin’s tree pruner, avoiding the use of ladders in young trees; made from 6 to 10 feet long.— (See advertisement). 2. American lightning saw, with teeth on both sides, very easy and rapid in its work; capital for green wood. 3. Aubert’s secateurs.— Sve sllustration. The best make. No springs to get out of order. 4. Samples of Saynor’s clasp knives, Nos. 189, 190, and sheath knives, 185. RED CURRANTs are greatly improved by summer pruning in August, shortening the small inner shoots, and leaving two or three the full length at the end of each bough to take away the sap. They then form a mass of fruit buds, and the fruit hangs as thickly as possible. The winter pruning here being merely to shorten the lony shoots (left from the summer} to three FOR PROFIT. 47 or four inches, or less if the tree has gained its full size, care being taken to get the boughs well above the ground to prevent the fruit beiny spoiled by the soil washed in the rains. BLACK CURRANTS require to be heavily pruned, and the work should be so arranged that old wood is cut away every year, as, if allowed to grow tall, the crop being mostly on the points of the shoots, causes the branches to break off, whereas if the trees are kept low in the way indicated, there is always young wood, and the only care required is to thin this out, removing weakly and ill-placed shoots, retaining the strongest and best—those with prominent buds. Black Currants are best cut back to four eyes the first year of planting, and Red Currants the same. GOOSEBERRIES should be pruned hard for a year or two. If allowed to bear too freely when young, the bushes become stunted and checked, and do not recover for a time. If planted early, they may be cut back before planting, and are then easier to set. The object in pruning Gooseberries is to raise the main branches off the ground, otherwise the fruit gets dirty, and to cut in such a way that the tree forms some stout young wood every year; preference being given to those shoots that stand up with an outward bend. The fruit of recently planted trees would be better gathered green the first year, as the tree has then a chance to recover itself the same season. Gooseberries are usually grown on a leg (a stem of 6 to 8 inches), as the land can be more readily cleaned, and it keeps the fruit from the soil, but some planters prefer them without a leg, as there is then a chance of re-making a tree if branches are broken off; especially the Lancashire Lad variety. 48 FRUIT FARMING RASPBERRIES are generally too little pruned; the forests of cane which the best grounds produce would pay for thinning as soon as the crop is gathered; and at the same time the old canes that have fruited should be removed, to assist those that are to crop the following year, and in February or earlier, the canes should be shortened to about 4 feet long, according to the strength of the cane, the object being to leave as much as the cane can support without assistance, as they are not staked in fields. Some growers gather the shoots at the top with yarn, which prevents the canes bearing down under the weight of foliage and fruit, which may happen in showery weather. Where Raspberries are grown for sale in punnets, it pays to leave the canes longer, and arch them over, tying them in a continuous line. One grower states that by tipping back the points of the summer growth on young canes in August, he increased his crop to three tons per acre. The land should be cleaned as directed for Strawberries. Early in August, Apple trees, especially those from five to ten years old, will pay well for attention. The Americans understand a good many of these matters quite as well as we do, and they always have their trees thinned out in August or gwmedtately after the fruit ts picked ; this system is strongly advocated and practised in the Allington Nurseries of my firm. The correct plan is to thin out the superfluous central wood so as to admit all the light and air possible to ripen the main branches. If pruned too early in the year, the trees make a second shoot, which does harm. The month of August is the best time for this “summer pruning.” It is immaterial whether the fruit FOR PROFIT. 49 is picked or not, only it is an awkward job if the tree is heavily laden. Only those shoots should be cut away that would have to be removed in winter pruning, and the pruner should leave shoots with three or four leaves on the pruned shoots next the main branch. This makes a small spur that will in all probability throw one or two bloom buds in future. The leading shoots should be left their full length, but if very long they can have 1 to 14 feet cut off their ends. Trees that are planted in hops benefit very much from this treatment. The shade of the hops, and generally too rank a growth, tend to develop an abundance of long sappy wood, which left to itself, cannot ripen sufficiently to withstand frost. If, after thinning, the remaining shoots look too weak and bending, it is a good plan to cut g inches off their ends in a fortnight’s time, just before the hops are picked. This prevents them from being damaged by sudden exposure to the wind. The most useful work on Pruning we know is Udale’s (see literature page end of book). It is nicely illustrated and gives careful instructions. 50 FRUIT FARMING Extract from “The Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society,” March, 1910. THE PHYSIOLOGY OP PRUNING, by my son, E. A. BUNYARD, F.R.H.S. ““To students in this case I would recommend a study of plant physiology or plant functions as the only sure basis upon which a knowledge of correct pruning can be founded. A short consideration of the vital processes of plants will, I think, demonstrate how much the pruner may learn from the physiologist. . . . Then follows a lucid explanation of the functions of sap, leaves and roots, and their elaboration—which are too long to include here. We may now consider how this supply of sugar and starch in the sap is drawn upon for the nourishment of fresh growths. The most convenient example ot this is the development of the bud. The buds are developed in the axils of the leaves, and an examination of a strong shoot in winter will reveal a certain difference between the buds situated on different parts of the shoot. The buds at the base will be seen to be very small, while those midway up the shoot are conspicuous and are covered with a downy felt. The latter are fruit buds. Higher up the shoot the buds again decrease in size, except perhaps the terminal bud of the shoot, which may be a fruit bud again. The shoot can therefore be divided into three dintinct parts: dormant buds at base, fruit buds at the centre, and above these the wood buds, viz., those which will produce only fresh branches and no fruit. It may be asked: What is the cause of the difference of these buds? It is entirely a question of development. FOR PROFIT. 51 Given a sufficient food-supply all buds will develop into fruit buds, but a deficiency results in either dormant or growth buds only. Bearing in mind what has been said about the importance of light, it will be seen that this factor alone will account for the whole difference of the buds shown on the shoot. The dormant buds at the base were nourished by leaves which were to a certain extent shaded by those above and therefore not so capable of forming food- products. The leaves above these are the most favourably situated and are produced at a period of maximum sunshine (midsummer), and their activity is therefore the greatest. The leaves higher still are borne on the second or autumn growth, during which weather conditions are not so favourable and consequently only wood buds are produced. The leaves at the extreme end of the shoot are, however, in an excellent position and, moreover, are in a rosette, which results in many leaves supplying all their food to one bud, and the result is frequently a terminal fruit bud. In varieties of great vigour and with a large leaf- surface the activity of one season is often sufficient to produce a fruit bud when it is very favourably placed. The formation of fruit buds and spurs in varieties of less vigour and of buds less well situated as to light and air is a matter of two seasons. Let us assume that the shoot above referred to is unpruned, and follow the development of the different buds the following season. The dormant buds at the base of the shoot will remain unaltered. The fruit buds will produce their blossoms and a supply of leaves which will feed the ensuing fruit. The wood buds above 52 FRUIT FARMING these, however, may take one of two courses. If the supply of sap be plentiful they will develop into moderate shoots. If, on the other hand, the supply be inadequate, each bud will produce a rosette of five leaves which will nourish a fruit bud in their midst exactly as did the terminal bud of last season, and this bud will of course produce fruit the next season. If pruning is done in the winter, the results of cutting to the different buds will naturally vary greatly. When the shoot is cut down to the dormant buds at the base the result is that the roots being capable of supplying the entire shoot with sap will concentrate on one or two buds the amount intended for the whole shoot. These buds, thus stimulated, will commence avery strong growth, and this is of course the reason that hard pruning encourages strong growth. If the branch is cut down to a fruit bud the result will be that these will develop into spurs, a develop- ment which we will briefly consider. A spur is a dwarf branch. If we imagine that the spaces between the leaves on a normal shoot were elastic and that it were possible to extend or close the shoot like a telescope, we shall see how this applies. When extended on the branch, the leaves are, let us say, one inch apart. When we push in the branch the leaves will naturally be quite close toyether and have an appearance exactly similar to that of a spur, the terminal fruit bud having its rosette of leaves. The spur is then an unextended branch, and the rugged appearance of its bark is mercly due to the leaf scars being quite close together. Each of these leaves will produce in their axils a small bud which will, according to circumstances, remain dormant, or in time develop FOR PROFIT. 53 into another spur exactly as on the extended branch considered above. We may now briefly refer to the case of the shoot should the tree be moved. This means in effect that the roots will be damaged, that new roots will have to be made from the foodstuffs stored in the stem and coarse roots. But this is a slow process, and until the old root system is entirely replaced it means that the branches will have to go short of their usual supply of sap. The effect upon them will be marked. No strong growth will be made, and even if cut back to the dormant bud a weak shoot only will result. If the branch is unpruned the shoots will put forth their flowers, but lacking sufficient sap, fruit will probably not set, and if it does there will be a lack of nourishment and consequently small, undersized fruit. The leaves will be small for the same reason, and the result will be that the supply of food material that is made—not being used up in the production of growth, will all be used in making fruit buds. Thus we see how it is that root-pruning will throw a tree into fruit by allowing the elaborated (organic) sap to predominate over the crude (inorganic). This puts the whole question of fruitfulness into a nutshell. Predominance of root sap means growth; predominance of leaf sap, fruit. This is illustrated in another way. It is often said that canker causes a tree to fruit. It is not, of course, the disease that causes this, but merely that the elaborated sap on its way to stems and roots is stopped by the damaged bark and held up in the branch. The buds therefore get an abnormal supply of food material which aids their development into 54 FRUIT FARMING fruit buds. The ancient practice of bark-ringing is based on the same principle, as is also that of wassailing the apple trees. Readers of Philpotts’ “ Children of the Mist’ will remember the “wassailing ’”’ of the Devonshire orchard described therein. The ceremony of discharging guns at the trees had no doubt the practical result of causing many wounds in which canker would establish itself and thus check the downward sap flow, and thus the fruitfulness which was believed to follow this ceremony would be capable of a simple explanation. Another well-known practice, that of bending down a branch to make it more fruitful, also owes its success to the fact that it would be more difficult for the elaborated sap to flow out of the branch into the stem and thence to the roots. All fruit-growers will know how freely the middle portion of a fan-trained tree will grow compared with the side branches which are parallel to the ground. This is due to the fact that the straighter the passage the quicker the flow of sap. The centre branches take more than their share of root sap, and the freedom with which the elaborated product flows back to the root prevents those strong branches attaining the fruitfulness of those situated at the sides. Other examples might be given, but enough has been said to illustrate the point and to show how a knowledge of physiology may be of value to the pruner. It is manifestly impossible in the short space of a lecture to more than roughly sketch these possibilities. In the different conditions in which the pruner finds his subjects, in their varying constitutions and habits, FOR PROFIT. 55 it is evident that mere dogmatic rules for pruning cannot suffice. A knowledge of the principles of plant growth will place him on a sure foundation from whence he can estimate the value of rules and their exceptions, and will lead him to approach his work in the spirit which is expressed in the motto of our sister Society, ‘Practice with Science!’” Before concluding this chapter, we would give a general invitation to all contemplating Fruit culture to visit our Allington Nurseries, to see the various modes of fancy training and pruning; such practical examples will be found most useful to Amateurs, who are often rather confused by technical terms which are new to them, and much can be learnt in a few hours. The months of August and September are the best for such a visit—for routes consult G. B. & Co.'s Fruit Catalogue. 56 kRUIT FARMING CHAPTER V. APPLES. In Kent, where hops are grown, the oasthouses afford capital places for storing Apples, being airy, dark, and cool. It is common for Apples in these stores to keep three months after their usual season; but the Market BusH APPLE, 2 years old, on Paradise Stock. Fruit Farmer may not have such conveniences at hand, we therefore divide our notice of this valuable fruit into two divisions—first, Apples that can be marketed direct from the tree, and secondly, those that pay for { storing. The former method has many advantages, and on the whole pays best. The bruising in gathering and storing, the loss by rotten fruit, and the double operation of picking and packing is perhaps rarely re- couped by the higher price obtained for stored Apples. Where Apples are stored, the straw used to protect the fruit from frost being clean, can be utilized elsewhere afterwards. EARLY DESSERT APPLES, to sell direct from the tree, in their order of ripening :— 1. Beauty of Bath—Very carly, a free cropper, which sells at a good price. A moderate grower. Fruit flat, with bright scarlet colour, speckled white. Mid-July. FOR PROFIT. 57 2. Mr. Gladstone—very fine, good regular bearer, of rather pendulous medium growth. Fruit with a bright crimson-scarlet skin, rich aroma. Should be sent to market before the fruits are fully ripe, or it bruises in transit, and then only realises a small price. July—August. 3. Lady Sudeley—A grand September fruit, of brilliant colour, rich aroma, growth spreading, fruiting at the points—a splendid variety which succeeds well both North and South; sells best in boxes. Trees pay for spur pruning, when they bear freely all over the head. 4. Worcester Pearmain—Of upright growth, a free cropper, fruit of medium size, conical, very handsome, with a bright crimson cheek. This has become the best paying Autumn Apple, and is a great favourite in the markets. September. No. 6,—Ben’s Red. 58 FRUIT FARMING 5. James Grieve—Growth free, but compact; an early seedling from Cox’s Orange raised at Edinboro’. A regular bearer, fruit handsome; sells well, as it comes for use when Dessert Apples are scarce. Sep- tember—early October. 6. Ben’s Red (see zllustration) —Growth short-jointed and compact—may be called a late Quarrenden—but a sure bearer and altogether more reliable; selling very freely in the market; fruit bronzy-red-flat. September and October. 7. Ingestre, or Summer Golden Pippin—Tree pendulous, and on that account most suitable for plantations; a great cropper, soon coming into bearing, fruit small, clear primrose yellow, a favourite ‘* costers”’ Apple, generally brings many shillings more per bushel than others; fine on dwarf Paradise trees. End September. 8. Duchess Favourite—Forms a close upright tree; fruit small, brilliant scarlet, a valuable fruit to market before King of Pippins; sells freely. Early September. CULINARY APPLES, to sell direct from the trees :— g. White Transparent—Growth upright, free. The earliest kitchen Apple, fruit medium sized, pale cream colour, of taking appearance, a very free bearer which succeeds both near the sea and inland; good as a dwarf on Paradise. End July and August. 10. Early Victoria—Growth compact, an enormous bearer and the best carly yellow Codlin. Grown extensively at Wisbech as) Emneth’s Karly; fruit above medium size. August or carly September. FOR PROFIT. 59 t1, Early Julian—Tree vigorous but not large, a tremendous cropper, fruit very pale and clear, one of the best early Kitchen Apples; on half-standards or dwarfs. August. BUSH APPLE on Paradise Stock.—Three years unpruned. Though pretty to look at, such a tree is started badly, and the stock is exposed whereas it should be 3-in. underground. 60 FRUIT FARMING 12. Lord Grosvenor—Very compact grower, suited for plantation and orchard; fruit conical, whitish yellow, produced in bunches, so that it requires thinning; succeeds in lands where Lord Suffield fails. This Apple pays for high culture and comes to profit quicker than any. September. 13. Grenadier—A great improvement on Keswick Codlin, a free bearer, of upright growth, fruit flat and angular, greenish yellow, tree hardy and_ robust. Stores well, and grows to a large size on bushes. September. 14. Stirling Castle—This bears too freely to form a standard, but is valuable for a plantation. Fruit shining greenish yellow, of perfect globular shape, never fails to bear, and requires severe thinning: compact grower, can be planted 8-ft. apart. August— September. 15. Warner's King—a monster, bearing freely ; tree vigorous and spreading, of very distinct growth, fruit flat oblate, smooth and clear, greenish yellow, requires warm soil. End September. The whole of these Apples succeed as pyramids or bushes on the Paradise stock, and produce very freely. Such dwarf trees are worthy of extensive cultivation, the fruit comes particularly handsome; after the first few years the trees require but little pruning, all that is needed being to regulate their growth. \When heavily cropped, mulch the trees freely the end of May with long fresh straw manure In planting these Apples upon the Paradise stock, it is important to get them upon the ‘* broad-leaved Paradise,” and to plant them so that the junction of stock and scion is 3-in. below the surface of the soil. They should be planted 12-ft. apart. FOR PROFIT. 61 All Apples require thinning early in August, such thinnings will pay for the labour, while the crop left on the trees benefits greatly by this operation, and developes to greater perfection. We now come to what may be termed the better class Apples, for storing, 7.2, those that will pay for such attention. In a scarce year many of these may also be marketed from the trees to advantage. DESSERT APPLES that are recommended for storing, in their order of ripening :— 16. King Pippin—A great bearer, and a favourite in the markets. This requires storing till of a rich golden colour, and if the summer has been fine, it assumes a red cheek, which makes it very acceptable. Fruit small to medium. Although this close upright tree is very liable to canker, it bears freely, and is one of the best for warm, dry, stony soils. Early October. 17. Allington Pippin—Growth free and compact. This desirable Apple was introduced by my firm, and proves to be a sterling kind; the fruit closely resembles Cox’s Orange, but is larger, cleaner, and handsomer in appearance, while the tree is a better bearer and more suited than Cox’s for a Northern climate and cold districts; often first class in flavour, a splendid bearer in any form. November. (See zllustration). 18. Cox’s Orange—The finest dessert Apple. Prefers a warm situation, and then crops heavily, and the fruit takes a fine colour. It is a nice size for dessert, and having a Ribston flavour is much fancied. It does not succeed in cold damp places, although when fruited there it is superior in quality to those grown in lighter soil. Fruit with a bronzy red cheek, shaded 62 FRUIT FARMING to yellow. It makes a nice small standard, and is at its best in plantations upon the Paradise stock. The larger fruits sell at a high price in boxes of 12 or 24. During the past cold seasons Cox’s has failed in many places, and it is not advisable to plant any number until it is found the soil suits it. November—December. No. 17. Allington Pippin. 1g. Blenheim ranye—Although mainly a culinary Apple, small sized fruits are very acceptable for table use, and frequently make long prices. The tree grows very widely, and requires room, and when old, assumes a pendulous habit, and then is a good bearer, but is slow in coming into fruit. November—January. FOR PROFIT. 63 20. Gascoyne’s Scarlet-—Remarkable for its great beauty; after being laid up for a few days it turns yellow on shaded side, and its wonderful scarlet cheek gives it a striking appearance. It is sweet and agree- able, makes a large tree, and crops most profusely when the tree gains size. November. 21. Christmas Pearmain—Growth free, compact, and very short jointed; fruit yellow, russety, with bright colour, enormous bearer; introduced by my firm. A variety which can he grown where King Pippin fails; a nice size for market, travelling well. November— December. 22. Baumann’s Reinette—A capital cropper, making a neat upright tree. Takes a crimson colour, and fruits in clusters; very handsome; keeps well till February; fine as a dwarf on Paradise. December. Several Seedlings have been raised from Cox’s Orange, such as Coronation, Charles Ross, the Houblon, St. Everard and William Crump. Their value for market is not yet appraised, but they may prove useful for Garden culture. Houblon and William Crump are most promising. CULINARY APPLES FOR STORING, in their order ot ripening :— 23. Peasgood’s Nonsuch—A remarkably fine large fruit, of handsome appearance, cropping every other year, of free spreading growth, succeeding as a standard or on Paradise. Market as soon as well coloured, in boxes; apt to canker. Early October. 24. Lord Derby—This has become very popular; the tree grows upright and bears freely, annually; green when gathered, turning to a most beautiful yellow; good for cool soils. A local grower secured 3,000 64 FRUIT FARMING bushels in the short year 1909, and marketed them from the tree direct at a good price; large prices have been made at orchard auctions. October— December. 25. Bismarck—Tree compact and pendulous. This never fails to crop heavily, and the large fruits sell equally well from the tree or stored. Best in a warm soil in the South; it does not colour well in the Midlands. November, keeping till January. 26. Norfolk Beauty—Growth free and branching, a valuable Apple, bearing freely in many parts, of splendid cooking quality, fruits globular, very large, pale yellow, very fine, keeping well until Christmas; tree requires to be well pruned as it makes much thin wood. 27. Royal Jubilee—Introduced by my firm, of a rich golden yellow, keeping till January, or may be sold from the tree direct; a great bearer; tree compact, medium size; blossoms late, and so can be planted in districts liable to late frosts; while by its late leafage it escapes the winter moth. 28. Tower of Glamis—Tree spreading; a valuable orchard kind; fruit large and heavy; a good regular bearer when 10 years old; vigorous. November— January. 29. Alfriston—Tree compact and hardy in growth, good as orchard or bush tree; stores well; fruit large. January. 30. Lane’s Prince Albert—\Wonderful for crop and beauty, keeping well till March; best as a plantation tree. The finest large late Apple for Dwarf trees. “Tt ia the hoavier and lntor fruita which suffor mest by Autumn gales, and therefore such kinds are bettor in a ahelterod orchard.’= Yeas Work FOR PROFIT. 65 31. Annie Elizabeth—Growth upright and sturdy; a fine standard tree in heavy soils; keeps firm and is fit for sale in March; fruit conical and firm. 32. Newton Wonder—This grand Apple is specially recommended ; it forms a very large Orchard tree and a fertile bush; fruit even, heavy, and as good a cooker as Wellington, which it entirely supersedes. November—February. 33-—Bramley’s Seedling—Of most robust habit, fine for orchard standard, one of the best of recent years; fruit large, freely produced, and keeping well till May; does not bear till the tree gains age; grand also as a pruned bush; preferable to Wellington; is now a leading sort, especially for cold soils, and sells well in market. February—March. The following are very promising, but we must not extend the list too far. Some growers plant these in quantity, but it is not advisable for beginners to experiment, the most reliable 33 are already named :— Sandringham, Edward the Seventh, and Byford Wonder for Kitchen sorts; and in Desserts, Langley Pippin (early), Ross Nonpariel (Oct.), for late keeping, Duke of Devonshire, Rosemary Russet, Sanspareil, and the Cox’s Orange Seedlings on page 63. The whole of these Apples succeed as Pyramids or free Bushes on the Paradise stock, and are worthy of extensive cultivation in that form, planted at 12-ft. apart. It is a significant fact that many of our best and most careful growers have for some years planted large quantities of Apples, as they feel that the foreigner has no chance against home produce; and it may be mentioned that they thin the fruits, and mulch when a good crop sets, and do all they can to improve the quality. The importance of these operations is the reason of their being here insisted on repeatedly. We F 66 FRUIT FARMING have always maintained that this should be done; with improved culture we shall produce better fruits ; and there is but little doubt that the general public will soon learn to discriminate between the bright but dry and often flavourless American kinds and fresh home grown English Apples. None of the foreign Apples cook like those home grown. GEORGE BUNYARD & Co.’s FRuIT RooM.— E. A. WHITE, Ltd., Fruit Growers, 116, BELTRINC, PADDOCK WOOD, Kent. ADVERTISEMENTS. 1s, INDISPENSABLES TO PROFITABLE FRUIT FARMING. Woburn Bordeaux Paste (Patent). A new improved, concentrated, and much cheaper form of Bordeaux Mixture. The best remedy for Apple and Pear Scab, Brown Rot of Fruit, Peach Leaf Curl, Potato Disease, etc. Full particulars and price on application. (Fusictad lien dsedyisieums Carlton Arsenate of Lead Paste. British and Best. The kind that sticks. Low in price. We are the actual Manufacturers. Do not be persuaded into buying elsewhere and paying exorbitant prices. No brand excels the ‘* Carlton.”’ The best remedy for Caterpillar. pecan ePratiie wkeeiactseae ae Mra eau alee od tn edhe tse Woburn Tobacco Extract. The accepted remedy for Apple Sucker, Aphis ‘in- cluding American Blight), : x Thrip, Cuckoo Spit, etc. xs ease Maik ce RES keene Blight Insist on having ‘‘ Woburn,” the original. NOTE.—The above three washes can be mired together and used at one spraying, thereby showing a considerable saving in labour. Voss’ Fruit Tree Banding Grease Remains unexcelled for trapping the females of the Winter, March Ae and Mottled Umber Moths, and ; preventing Caterpillar. wince enenlel ts Winged Mate of the Mottled Great Winter Moth wen. §=6 CHEAPEST AND BEST. 9 emu eiaare, Winter Washes and all Horticultural requirements a speciality. Full particulars from— WALTER VOSS & Co., Ltd., 3b, MILLWALL, LONDON, E. vii. ADVERTISEMENTS. COPPIN’S BY ROYAL LETTERS PATENT. As used In the Prince of Wales's Gardens at Sandringham, and also In the Public and Private Parks and Gardens In the United Kingdom and abroad. The Tree Pruners, And their advantages over others. 1st.—No. 2 is the only Tree Pruner which commences the cut at the top of branch. 2nd.—By the circular action of the Blade, a much cleaner cut is obtained. 8rd.—The Spring makes it automatic in opening, aud entirely does away the inconvenience of having to hold back the Lever for the same purpose. 4th.—Being made with Hook at the top, isa great advantage for pruning branches of an upright growth. PRICES of No. 2 TREE PRUNEBS. 2 ft. pole ... .. 4/6 each. Bits 34. = ee Ble 4it; ye sax ae BIG 35 BAG, 5" ete ne: ey Cp eee we 6/6 gy ie ( rere ace 9 ME Se Sht.. ay; 0 aes ie, TALOP 55 Oto yg han aaa BEE ays TOMEGS) 4 a oe) BL tte Gy awe ais: MOPS. 95 12 ft. sti wan LOB. ~ 5p Above 12 ft. made to order. Extra Blades, 1/6 each. Price Lists Fits on application to leading Tronmongrs and Horticultural Sundriesmen, or Patentecs. The “New Standard” Tree Pruner. PRICES of COPVIN’s No. 3. 4 ft. pole ... za t- each. Bib. 3g xe fs Mas Bite » ax em ee TO hts, 35. she ae PF te 11 oe a: Saws to fit in place ah Blade, $16 each. Extra Blades, 1/- each. No. 3. Patentees and Sole Makers— G. COPPIN & SONS, apnixcros, surrey, ADVERTISEMENTS. vill. Spraying JVachinery For HOPS, FRUIT TREES, BUSH FRUIT, RUBBER, COFFEE & TEA PLANTATIONS. OIL ENGINES and PUMPS For Water Supply, Irrigation and General Estate Work. Winners of:—Both First Prizes at Wisbech. Two Seconds at Gloucester. Special £50, R.AS.E. Gold Medal, Jamaica, etc., etc. Makers to all the principal Spray Fluid Manufacturers, including : Cooper & Nepheus. McDougall Bros. Voss & Co. The Duke of Bedford’s Experimental Farm. A large number of Agricultural Colleges, County Councils, etc. Makers of the New MISTIFIER’ Jar: Soray (Nozsle: DRAKE & FLETCHER, Engineers, IMIAIDSTONE. be ADVERTISEMENTS. RELIABLE SALESMEN L A V E R Pi NATIONAL TELEPHONE-1663 Rovat. TeLecrams-“ WaTercress,” LIVERPOOL. Sage = Nee eee eaiey ) Nees tat: B Postat Aopress-10, QUEEN SQuaAnE. 10 & 11, Queen Square. 29 & 31, Great Nelson Street. 144, 145 & 146, Wholesale Markets, Cazneau St. G. Jj. Bedford, WHOLESALE SALESMAN OF Fruits, Flowers, Salads & Vegetables. Special attention given to English Produce. Account Sales dally Cheques every Friday. Charges for Fruits, 5 per cent., and 2d. per Package for Rents. Use and Carriage of Empties, etc. Charges for Salads and Flowers, 7} per cent., ditto. READY SALE for all GOODS of RELIABLE QUALITY. O@ We require more Strawberries, Black and Red Currants, and Raspberries. Should be pleased to correspond with Growers. Prompt Returns G Best Market Prices Guaranteed. Bankers: THE LONDON CITY & MIDLAND LUM ark Branch). Hs raBListebp By Cr. Wo BRD KOR TD. Lest. ADVERTISEMENTS. xX. RELIABIEH SADLESMEN CHAMPION BROS., FRUIT, PEA AND POTATO SALESMEN, Borough and Covent Garden Markets, I NT ON Receive for Save all kinds of Fruit, VeGeTasirs and Potatoes, and Supply Baskets on application. References—London Joint Stock Bank, Southwark, S.E. TERMS ON APPLICATION. CuHEegues WEEKLY. Telegrams: Telephone: ““ THURLOW, SPITALFIELDS, LONDON.” No. 9627, LONDON WALL. ESTABLISHED 1850. R. Thurlow & Sons, Fruit, Pea and Potato Salesmen, SPITALFIELDS MARKET, LONDON, E., Solicit Consignments of Fruits, Potatoes & Wegetables. Bankers: LONDON CITY & MIDLAND, Shoreditch, E. LABELS, EMPTIES, etc., ON APPLICATION. No connection with any person or firm using same name or any address other than above. ScL. ADVERTISEMENTS. GEORGE MENCE SMITH Supplies at Lowest Possible Prices, Att Farmers’, Hop « FRuir GRowERS’ SPECIALITIES. Coir Yarn. Arsenate of Soda. Raffia. Arsenate of Lead. Soft Soap. Sulphate of Copper. Quassia Chips. Caustic Soda. Quassia Soft Soap. Banding Grease for Trees. Liver of Sulphur. Banding Paper for Trees. Grafting Wax. Paints, Oils, Varnishes, Acetate of Lead. etc., etc. OIL, COLOUR & GENERAL MERCHANT, 19, High Street, MAIDSTONE, Kent. : Kent }/ Insurance Company ESTABLISHED 1802. (Now merged in the Royal Insurance Co., Ltd.) Total Funds - - - £16,630, 262. Income - - - - £5,828,309. LocaL CHAIRMAN GEORGE MARSHAM, Eso. FIRE DEPARTMENT.—Claims promptly and equitably settled. LIFE DEPARTMENT. -Large participation in profits. Personal Accident. Burglary. Workmen's Compensation. Fidelity Guarantee. Property Owners’ Liability. Third Party. Plate Class. Loss of Profits by Fire, Marine, etc. Forms and Prospectuses on appheation to Next Orricr, Maipstont ; or to any of the Company's Representatives. J. DALBY HOBSON, Local Secretary. EDWIN RUCK, Assistant Secretary. ADVERTISEMENTS. Kil; GOLD MEDAL, after exhaustive trials, Hexham Fruit Congress, October, 1910. FIRST AWARD, Middlesex Demonstration. also 13 other Medals and Diplomas since Sept., 1909. No other sprayer can be compared with it for efficiency and simplicity ; no work, no trouble, never gets out of order, no continuous pumping. One person only required to use any size machine. Charged with compressed air by means of an ordinary bicycle foot pump. What the Royal Horticultural Society think of this Sprayer :— ‘We consider this to be one of the finest Sprayers on the market.” From R.H.S. Report in Journal, March, 1910. Jhe Alpha, KING OF SPRAYERS, for use in Orchard, Garden, Greenbouse & Conservatory. Can be used for Lime and Whitewash Spraying, Disinfecting, etc. The Knapsack, 3} gallons, awarded Gold Medal and First Diploma as above, complete with powerful foot pump, 60/-. No. 5. MADE IN SIX OTHER SIZES, DIFFERENT PATTERNS. 1 quart, 15/-; 2 quarts, 16/6; 3 quarts, 17/6; 13 gallons, 47/6; 3% gallons special Lime and Whitewash Spraying Machine, 58/6; 5-gallon Sprayer, suitable for any purpose, 75/-. Any Tree Spraying Solution or Insect-Killer may be used with : wonderful effect in these machines. Full particulars and I/lustrated Price List on application to— ALPHA EXTINGUISHER, LTD., ROSS, HEREFORDSHIRE. we =0AGENTS WANTED WHERE NOT REPRESENTED. pq SCT ADVERTISEMENTS. “THE SOUTH EASTERN GAZETTE.” The leading Newspaper, for Farmers and all interested in the land, in the County of Kent. Principal Medium for Auctioneers’ & Estate Agents’ Notices Regular weekly features include Special Reports on Markets, the Hop Crop, Fruit prospects, ete. “THE SOUTH EASTERN GAZETTE” Published Monday evening for Tuesday, price One Penny. Post Free, 3s. 3d. half-yearly. SATURDAY EDITION price One Half-penny. Proprietors -— The South Eastern Gazette Newspaper Co., Ltd., Head Offices: 56, Week Street, MAIDSTONE. The_ Family County Paper _of Kent. “We find that we get more results from your Paper than from all other Kent Papers and we have tried them all for over four years. “ Yours faithfully, “JOHN C. MURDOCH & Go., Ltb., “ F, Proctor, Manager. “78, Week Street, Maidstone.” a 12-page Foster Machine. Established 51 years Displayed Advertisements. er inch 13 insertions 2s. 6d. par insertion: TYPE OR BLOCKS. There Is no Newspaper printed in the County Town of Kent that can compare with the CIRCULATION of the “ KENT MESSENGER.” Heao Orrices: WEEK STREET, MAIDSTONE. Branch Ofiees 157, Parroak Struct, GRAVESEND: Dorset Stroot, SEVENOAKS > nnd 2d, Bink Street, ASHFORD. London Offleo: 114, FLEKT > Iroprictor: BARTEAYE PRAPE BOORMAN FRIDAY & SATURDAY~ONE PENNY. WEONESDAY ONE HALF-PENNY. (The above letter waa entirely unsolicited ) “Kent Messenger & Gravesend Telegraph & Dartford News.” “Kent Messenger & Sevenoaks Telegraph.” ADVERTISEMENTS. Xiv. VERMOREL’S knapsack SPRAYERS, For FRUIT TREES, HOPS, POTATOES, ete. The BEST and MOST RELIABLE. pe Have won over 500 FIRST PRIZES and MEDALS. Has never been beaten in competition. Recommended by all Authorities. The “ECLAIR,” for liquids, Gives a very fine, a medium, or a coarse spray, and is the best dis- tributor of either thick or thin fluids. Has a powerful agitator, and plenty of force behind the spray. Price—£1 15s. 6d. LONG TUBES for spraying tall trees,— (Bamboo Lance, fitted with light copper tubing and tap). Aft. 10in., 10/6; Gft. Gin., 12/6; Sft. tin., 14/6; 9ft. 9in., 18/6; 13ft., 22/6; 16ft. 3in., 25/6. The three largest sizes are in two pieces; either half can be used separately by affixing an extra top and nozzle. The “ TORPILLE,” for powders. For dusting powders of every description. Prices No. 1, 24/6; No. 2, 18/- Double action ‘ Torpille,’’ 33/6. “VERMORITE,” a spraying mixture, for instantaneous use. Sole Agents for the United Kingdom and the Colonies :— COOPER, PEGLER & Co., 24, 26, Christopher Street, Finsbury Square, LONDON, E.C. XV. ADVERTISEMENTS. C. T. OVERTON & SONS, CRAWLEY, “SUSSEX, MANUFACTURERS OF BEE HIVES AND BEE APPLIANCES of every description. Breepers and Importers of Ligurian Carniolan and English Bees and Queens. Stocks and Swarms. See Catalogue. Lectures & Instruction given in Bee-keeping. TERMS MODERATE. Illustrated Catalogue Free to any address. KINDLY SLEN TION THIS BOOK. ADVERTISEMENTS. Xvi. clAL APPOINT, et ort 2 MEy > 3 S\ = a = ae? ac, C ys GEORGE BUNYARD & Co., Ltd. HAVE BEEN Awarded many CUPS, GOLD and SILVER MEDALS, and HUNDREDS OF FIRST PRIZES, FOR THEIR EXAMPLES OF Apples, Pears, Cherries, etc., At all the FIRST-CLASS COMPETITIONS. Champion Exhibitors of Hardy Fruits for 26 years. "THE above Fruit has been grown by them in their Nurseries, and Visitors can always see 400 kinds of Apples & Pears on the Trees or in their Fruit Room, from October to February ; Peaches and Nectarines, in Orchard Houses—July to October. Such important practical knowledge of Pomology, gained over so many years, combined with extensive trials, has made the Maidstone Nurseries distinguished for selling Fruit Trees true to mame; healthy and vigorous in growth. Many Colonial Governments, as well as County Councils and the trade, have availed themselves of this fact, in order to get true stock for comparison and propagation. As far as can be spared, Collections or single examples can be supplied for County Council educational purposes or comparison, but not for competition at Exhibitions. XVil. ADVERTISEMENTS. ee Kent, the Garden of England.” == NEARLY: — A MILLION FRUIT TREES, In 600 SORTS, TRUE to NAME, CLEAN axpn HEALTHY iw GROWTH, ARE GROWN ANNU? LLY at GEORGE BUNYARD & Co.'s FRUIT TREE NURSERIES, ESTABLISHED 1796. MAIDSTONE. 7 SPECIAL ATTENTION is given to PROFITABLE MARKET SORTS. Illustrated Descriptive Fruit Catalogue, Post-free Six Stamps. Market Growers’ List, free. G. B. & Co., Ltd., ave also Extensive General Nurserymen, and will forward the following Lists free: Tue Descriptive © CULTURAL CATALOGUE OF STRAWBERRIES. THE GrNeRAL Tree & SuruB CATALOGUE. List oF Herpactrous Plants, A\guatics, ete. List oF Harpy CLIMBERs. Tur Descriptive List or Roses. DkSCRIPTIVE GF NERAL SreD & Suxprirs [isr. AsvaRAGts CUuLTuRE & Prices. All these Catalogues ave Copyright, and entered at Stattoners’ Hall. LIBERAL TERMS, FREE CARRIAGE AND DISCOUNT, DISTANCE NO OBJECT. Kveryone contemplating FRUEP FARMING should) pay these Nurseries a visit, and see examples of up to date Culture and Praming. For Ltoute, see Catalogue. ADVERTISEMENTS. XVili. TOOLS, etc., for use in . FRUIT PLANTATIONS, MAY BE OBTAINED DIRECT FROM GEORGE BUNYARD & Co., Ltd. Pincnes’ AcMe Lapgis, practically imperishable, strongly recommended, any names to order, per whole gross, 20/- ; per doz., 2/6; each 3d.; post free, to customers’ names. STANDARD TREE Pruners (see advertisement page vii). Pruninc Knives (clasp), special Sheffield make, each 2/9 to 3/6. PruninG Knives (sheath), for Cob Nuts, etc., each 2/6. SECATEURS FOR Prunina, 3/6 to 5/6 per pair. Tam O’SuHanter Hongs, for sharpening above, each 6d. Prunine Saws, “ American T'wo-edged Lightning,” each 3/6 & 4/6. Kent Hanp Bits, for lopping, each 3/6. Diccinc Forks, cast steel, four prongs, each 4/- and 5/-. Bunyarp’s SpeciaL PLANTING SPADES, extra strong, strapped, cast steel, as used in the Nursery, each 6/-. GALVANIZED Wire Guarps, for protecting stems of Standard Trees, very effective, price per 100, 30/- to 50/-. Better than when cut from a roll. Pianet Junior, Horse, Pony or Donxey Hokgs, very useful, and much ussd in our Nurseries. VerRMoREL’s Knapsack Sprayers, and the new English make, from 36/6 (see advertisement page xiv). Quassia Cups in quantity, price on application. Topacco Dust, per cwt., price on application. HELLEBORE Powner, 6d. and 8d. per Ib. ; per cwt. on application. Gtoves, strong leather pruning, per pair, 1/- to 1/8. Grease SMEAR, for dressing Trees to prevent Winter Moth; 56 lb., 12/6; cwt. casks, 21/-. Howarp Cnapman’s Grease in stock, (see advertisement page iv). Bunyarp’s AMERICAN BiicuT AND Insect Cours, per gallon, 5/-; five-gallon drums, 17/6. Buwyarv’s Speciric for Mildew and Curl on Peach foliage, 1/- & 2/6. XIX. ADVERTISEMENTS. Fruit Farming and Gardening. t Mr. GEORGE BUNYARD, F.R.H.S., V.M.H., (Actiny Member of the Chiswick Fruit Congresses ; Chairman of the Fruit Committee Royal Horticultural Society ; Chairman of the Edinboro’ [pple and Pear Conference ; For 50 years connected with the Maidstone Nurseries ; Master of the Fruiterers’ Company, 1906.) WILL (Gn Summer, by preference) be willing to give his services to Noblemen, Land Owners, or Farmers, who require practical professional assistance or Advice on Market Fruit Culture . or the Formation of Modern . Fruit or Rose Gardens, etc., etc. Terms on Application to THE ‘ROYAL NURSERIES, MAIDSTONE. Fruit will be named for Customers and Friends if sent Carriage Paid, with Stamped Addressed Envelope. but non- customers and the Urade will be asked for a fee of | - for every dozen or less, which will be handed to the Gardening Charities. ADVERTISEMENTS. XX. LITERATURE OF FRUIT CULTURE. The following Works are considered the best on their several subjects, and may be purchased through any Bookseller, or be posted direct from GEORGE BUNYARD & Co., LTD., the Royal Nurseries, Maidstone, at the prices affixed, net. The notes in parenthesis are the Author’s. The Standard Book.—“ The Fruit Garden.”—This important work contains about 400 Illustrations. and practical information of every kind relating to Fruit Culture, Insects, etc. By GEORGE BUNYARD, V.M.H., and OWEN THOMAS, V.M.H. In One Volume. ‘* The best and most important yet published.’’ 13/- net. Bunyard’s Modern Fruit and Rose Culture, for Amateurs. The set embraces :—Hints for the culture of Apricots, Peaches and Nectarines, Pears, Apples and Plums for Villa Gardens: Cordon and Candelabra Trees ; Strawberries in the open, or for forcing: and the management of Orchard-house Trees, hints on Root-pruning, Rose Culture, ete. 1/- post free. National Rose Society's Descriptive Catalogue, 2/2; also hints on Rose Culture. “England’s National Flower.”—Mr. G. B. has written a practical little manual with descriptions of ROSES grouped in families for special purposes, illustrated by photographs taken specially for this work by Mr. E. A. BUNYARD. It contains hints for culture, and will be specially valuable for amateurs who are often at sea with a catalogue that contains hundreds of varieties. 3/9 post free. Favourably reviewed by all Papers. See Rose Catalogue. Rev. A. Foster-Melliar’s Book of the Rose. ‘‘ Practical and a treat to read.”? 6/6. Royal Horticultural Society's Rules for Judging Fruit, Vegetables and Flowers, 1,9. Fruits for Cottagers.—R.H.S. pamphlets, containing valuable and simple hints for culture, of profitable sorts, etc., each 2d., or six for 7d. How to Build a Fruit Room on G. B. & Co.’s Plan, with two photographs. 2'6 post free. Vines and Vine Culture, by A. F. BARRON, late Superintendent of the Royal Horticultural Gardens. 5/6. ‘(The most complete work yet published + every detail given.) Profitable Fruit Growing, by J. WRIGHT. 1/2. Fifth edition revised. (The Prize Essay of the Fruiterers’ Company, iss. A most practical and valuable work for small growers, Cottage or Allotment holders, freely illustrated, and valuable for its sound teaching. Just the work for distributon among Cottage Garden Societies, ete.) A Year's Work on a Kent Fruit Farm. A practical series of capital articles ; highly recommended. (Copyright). 1/-. Board of Agriculture Leaflets post free as per List, see Chapter XXIII. Fruiterers’ Company Charts, illustrating Budding, Grafting, Layering, Pruning, ete. ; on cards of large size, mounted, 6/- the set of five ; too large for post. The Planter’s Handbook of Shrubs and Trees, with list of the months they blossom. 3/9 post free.