ll ) y New Yurk State College of Agriculture At Gornell University Dthaca, N. Y. Library Cornell University Library SF 523.P388b Beginner's bee book, Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003437948 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK Queen Drone Worker ITALIAN BEES BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK BY FRANK C. PELLETT ASSOCIATE EDITOR AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL, FORMER STATE APIARIST OF IOWA; AUTHOR “PRODUCTIVE BEEKEEPING,” “PRACTICAL QUEEN REARING,” ETC ILLUSTRATED PHILADELPHIA AND LONDON J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY COPYRIGHT 1919, BY J. L. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY PRINTED BY J. ». LIPPINCOTT COMPANY AT THE WASHINGTON SQUARE PRESS PHILADELPHIA, U.S: A. PREFACE In writing this book the author has an- swered such questions as are put to him in the hundreds of letters that come to his desk from every part of our own country and from many foreign lands. There is a constantly increas- ing interest in beekeeping. Men and women in large numbers are looking to beekeeping as a possible source of livelihood, while others find an interesting diversion from routine duties with a few colonies of bees. The novice wants a book that covers the fundamental without going too much into detail regarding the vari- ous systems of honey production. This book is designed to meet such a need, and does not pretend to cover the whole field of beekeeping. The business is too complicated to make pos- sible anything more than a casual introduction in a book of this size. Those who desire to make a more extended study, will find “ Productive 5 6 PREFACE Beekeeping,” by the same author, or some sim- ilar book, of assistance in pursuing the subject further. It has been the author’s aim to set down only such facts as will be of practical value to the beginning beekeeper in producing and mar- keting honey. The author has had practical experience in the commercial production of honey. His work as State Apiarist of Iowa and as Associate Editor of The American Bee Journal, has given him opportunity to visit many of the most extensive beekeepers in the United States and Canada, and to observe the various systems of honey production which are profitably followed. Nothing is included here which it is not believed will stand the test of general usage under a variety of conditions. Frank C. PELLETT. Hami.tton ILuIno!s, April, 1919. CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE I Attractions or BEEKEEPING eT RMacwiec clown eal x BS etpatnm ase 11 TI OutLook ror BEEKEEPING..............0.0.00000.0005 17 TI Tue Honty Bre Faminy...............0..00.0.0.000. 25 IV Necessary EQUIPMENT... ........... 0000 e cece ee 46 V Hives ano Hive Parts...........000..0 cece cee eee 61 VI Pasture FOR BEES........0.. 00600 c cc eenene 70 VII Succestions ror GETTING StTaRTED witH BeEgs........ 85 VIII Wuen Bees Must Be Fep........................0.. 100 IX Us or FOUNDATION..........0.0.0 0000s cece eee cee 109 X Breepine Berrer Bues.............0...0. 0.00 c eee eee 118 XI Gertine THE Honey To MaRKET..................... 183 XII Enemies anp Diseases or BEES.............-...-- 149 XIII Winter PREPARATION............6.00 000 e eee eee eens 154 XIV Review or tHe Season’s WoRK...........--.+0--55- 160 GLOSSARY iio di mn tegaies peers eng sing oar e os 169 FIG. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE The Queen, the Drone, and the Worker....... Frontispiece A Good Smokers io. j54 i ba waecnack acdsee hans eww ecngaended es 47 The Value of the Hive Tool is Far Above Its Cost......... 52 - It is Easy to Remove Honey from the Hive by Placing a Bee-escape under the Super................... 00.0... 54 . Honey is Extracted by Placing the Combs in the Baskets and Revolving Them Rapidly......................... 58 oe He Lan StrOthy PYAR Sse seascs ese narevecse aan amarante oop woe webb 63 . The Hivebody is Like an Empty Box........ ........... 66 . Hivebody With Frames in Place............0...00....000. 66 . Hive for Production of Honey in Sections, or Comb Honey. 67 . Hive for Producing Extracted Honey. . ie Sse 68 . A Good Brood Comb as a Result of a Full Bist, of POUNG SHO Moc sce aceon eace moe ananbeand 5 5 Meats tenmmanndinn et 11 . A Comb Composed Largely of Drone Cells as a Result of a Narrow Startetinn aay: yc chcanmotis ete ee tem oe ese: 111 . FullSheet of Foundation in Wired Frame, Ready forthe Bees 113 . Different Methods of Using Foundation in Sections........ 116 . The Thin Sheets of Wax Are Impressed With the Cell Bases of Proper Size to Induce the Bees to Build Worker Combs. 116 - Queen Cells Produced by the Cell Cup Method............ 128 . The Queen Excluder Prevents the Queen from Passing into HERS UP ERs 4. csevascamansonte seh fi 5 aap HrortoreemaiRTANNMRR Maa ehenet 129 . Hive Divided into Three Compartments for Mating Queens 131 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK CHAPTER I ATTRACTIONS OF BEEKEEPING BEEKEEPERS as a class are very enthusias- tic about their occupation. The successful beekeeper who is not an enthusiast is an excep- tion and there is no class which welcomes new recruits more warmly or gives the secrets of the business more freely. One who having once attended a typical convention of beekeepers, or a field day, does not feel something of this animated interest commonly spoken of as “bee fever,” is never likely to become a honey producer. Beekeeping has some decided advantages over poultry, gardening, fruit growing, or other light occupations often spoken of as in the, same class. The first advantage is that no spe- ul 12 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK cial situation is necessary. If the bees are within flying distance of nectar-producing flowers they can be kept almost anywhere. It is surprising in what unpromising places bees are to be found. An occasional hive will be found in the attic with an opening through a window sash, or on the roof when there is no more convenient place for them. Roof apiaries are not uncommon in the cities. The author has visited many back lot apiaries in various cities and has found that many of them are the source of several hundred dollars of yearly revenue. By placing the bees at the back end of the lot and facing the entrances away from the street there is seldom complaint of annoyance of neighbors, especially when a gentle strain of Italian bees is kept. Another great advantage of beekeeping lies in the fact that one can so plan his work that a day’s absence from home does not result in dis- aster or inconvenience. In fact, at some sea- ATTRACTIONS OF BEEKEEPING 13 sons of the year, the bees need little attention for days or weeks at a time. Poultry must be fed daily, while the bees gather their own food. Business or professional men or women who are looking for a light occupation to take them into the open air will find just the thing in car- ing for a few bees. On stormy days when it is unpleasant to go out, the bees are better for being undisturbed. The work is mostly clean and light, just the kind of work that should engage the attention of one who is tired from office work. The product of the apiary is ready to serve when it is taken from the hive and needs no special preparation on the part of the house- wife. This fact is too often overlooked in com- paring the price of honey with other foodstuffs. If the housewife who buys the family groceries will take account of all the time spent in pre- paring fruits, vegetables, etc., for the table and add the cost of fuel for cooking them, she will 14 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK find that honey is a very economical food to serve as frequently as her family can enjoy it. Tur Busy Brers.—The activities of the bees are sufficient in themselves to attract many people, even though there was no profit to be made from the production of honey. On bright days when one most enjoys being in the open air, the bees are tremendously active. ‘There will be a great bustle and hurry about the hive that makes one feel like sitting in the grass and watching them for hours at a time. There is something of mystery, also, in the little com- munity where many thousand active little crea- tures live together in perfect harmony, all bent on the one aim of piling up as much honey as possible while the nectar is abundant in the fields. When the workers are no longer of use to the community they receive no considera- tion from their busy sisters, but are permitted to drag themselves off to die alone. If they are slow about leaving the hive they are often ATTRACTIONS OF BEEKEEPING 15 dragged out, as there is no place for the decrepit and the infirm in the economy of the bee. When the season is over the drones are no longer likely to be useful in the fertilization of virgin queens, they are also driven out without mercy to die of cold or hunger in the open air. On chill autumn days. little groups of discon- solate drones huddled together beside the hive are acommon sight. When they are no longer permitted to return to the warmth of the cluster they gather into little bunches to get such com- fort as they can from each other. While we may not be pleased with their con- duct toward the helpless members of the com- munity, we cannot but admire the singleness of purpose with which they pursue their daily activities. Seldom do we find a student of na- ture but sooner or later becomes interested in bees and since there is so much to be learned concerning them it is usually a lifelong at- traction. 16 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK BEEKEEPING FoR Women.—The woman who keeps bees does not have problems that are essentially different from those which confront aman. Many women are engaged in honey production successfully, and while there is some work for which she is not physically adapted, such as putting the bees into the cellar, where they are wintered in that way, it is usually pos- sible to have such heavy work done by men or boys. Beekeeping can be developed to occupy one’s entire time for the year or merely: the summer season, as best suits one’s inclination and opportunity. CHAPTER II OUTLOOK FOR BEEKEEPING THE outlook for beekeeping was never bet~- ter than it is now. Greater prosperity for an agricultural specialty has always come with its general development over a large scope of country. This has been notably true of the dairy industry which formerly returned but a small part of the revenue that it does to-day. Beekeeping as a business is very new, so new in fact that many people do not yet realize that beekeeping offers an opportunity as an ex- clusive occupation. It is only within the past half century that honey production has become commercially possible and but a very few years have passed since the first agricultural college established beekeeping as a regular part of its curriculum. Within the recent months many 2 17 18 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK more agricultural colleges have added this sub- ject to their regular work. The total output of the apiaries of the entire country probably does not amount to more than a pound or two of honey per capita for the population of the country, while many times the amount of sugar is consumed by the public. This fact should offer assurance that there is no immediate danger of over-production if the beekeepers use good business methods in the development of markets. Foop VaLuE or Honry.—In a recent bul- letin by the Food and Dairy Department of Iowa, it has been shown that for actual food value, honey is one of the cheapest of foods. While with most foods, a large part of the bulk is waste which adds neither fuel to warm the body nor rebuilds dead tissue, the bees have removed most of the waste from honey, so that it is nearly all consumed within the body. When its actual food and fuel value is considered, it is OUTLOOK FOR BEEKEEPING 19 shown to be a low-priced product, rather than a luxury as it is generally regarded. The fol- lowing table shows the comparative value of several common commodities at pre-war prices as shown by the bulletin above mentioned. At average prices: Honey;,'7 ounces 2. sce esecsweseewe 7 cents Milk 1 quan’ noc.) eas eee oe 10 cents Cream cheese, 5.6 ounces .......... 9 cents Bes) VO see cet eacice ean ten a oe ae tek ace 25 cents Round beefsteak, 12 ounces ........ 15 cents Boneless codfish, 15 ounces ...... 20 cents OREMBES AS aigeiina ean aside cae ee alee 20 cents Walnuts, 814 ounces ............. 13 cents It will be noticed that for actual food and fuel value, honey is the cheapest food in the list. The table is designed to show a quantity of each article exactly equal in such value to any one of the others shown. Prices have since greatly changed. If the beekeepers will use diligence in lay- ing these facts before the public there will shortly be no lack of demand for the product of the hive. Most people like honey, but for some 20 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK reason its use has been neglected by many, who have substituted the cheaper corn syrups so widely advertised. When it is considered that these low-priced substitutes are low in sweet- ening value and also injurious to the digestive system, it will only require that the public be informed of the facts to restore honey to its former popularity as a food product. The establishment of courses in beekeeping in so many agricultural colleges will tend to popularize its use, since its merits will be in- vestigated and made known by the domestic science departments as well as apiculturalists. BEEKEEPING A SPECIALTY.— Beekeeping is becoming more and more a specialty. While there are still thousands of professional people who keep a few bees as a diversion, the bees under the apple tree on the general farm are becoming fewer every year. The spread of dis- ease is largely responsible for this condition. While it is not difficult for the well-trained bee- OUTLOOK FOR BEEKEEPING 21 keeper to deal with bee diseases, bees that re- ceive no attention, other than to give them a super for surplus in the spring and to remove it in the fall, sooner or later fall victims to ad- verse conditions. While beekeeping is not difficult, bees can never be profitable without intelligent atten- tion. ‘Those who are devoting their attention to bee culture are receiving as large returns as those who follow other agricultural specialties and the work is no more trying nor is the risk any greater. In few localities are there bees enough to gather the nectar in the fields, most of which now goes to waste. While good bee pasture is not plentiful in an occasional limited local- ity, there are many places where commercial orchardists are offering some inducement for beekeepers to locate within reach of their or- chards, because of the better fruit crops that will result from the increased number of insects 22 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK among the blossoms. There are untold hun- dreds of good locations that will support profit- able apiaries in any one of several of the northern states and perhaps as good openings in many of the southern states. In only a few states has beekeeping been commercially spe- cialized, although the development bids fair to be much more rapid in the very near future. PossisLE DrveLOpMENT.—There are men of limited observation who are breaking into print with a warning against a possible over- production of honey. Their arguments are very weak, and it is safe to say that the present output might be doubled two or three times over before there would be any danger of over- production. As an example of the possibilities of market development, it is only neces- sary to point to the growth of the -orange business during the past few years. Concern- ing the growth of that industry Mr. R. C. Gano, in the American Bee Journal, writes as follows: OUTLOOK FOR BEEKEEPING 23 EXPERIENCE OF OrANGE GROWERS Back in 1895 the orange situation was much what the honey situation is to-day. Though at that time our national population was over 65,000,000, nearly two-thirds of what it is today, the California citrus growers found it difficult to sell at a fair profit an orange crop which was one-ninth the size of the crop they sell at a good profit to-day. These figures are absolutely authentic. The Cali- fornia citrus production in 1895 was less than 5000 car- loads whereas the normal crop to-day is 45,000 carloads. The orange crop has increased 900 per cent., while the population has increased 50 per cent., and this indicates what is an actual fact, namely, that the people of the United States eat to-day seven or eight times as many oranges in a year as they did in 1895. What has changed their habits, in this regard? Nothing more nor less than advertising. In 1895 they not only sold fewer oranges per capita, but they received a smaller profit per box. In 1895 orange growers were every year afraid of over-production. About that time the California Fruit Growers’ Exchange was formed, because the growers realized that something would have to be done to develop a future for their business. To say that it began working miracles right from the start would hardly be an exaggeration. It studied the science of selling, and soon had the marketing end of the industry on a business basis. It began put- ting agents in the various market centres, and when a car- 24 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK load was ready for shipment it knew from its agents where to send it to get a good price. Fear of over-production soon became a thing of the past. During the first five years of the Exchange’s operation the citrus crop increased 255 per cent., from 1900 to 1905 it increased 71.7 per cent., from 1905 to 1910 it increased 10.9 per cent., and from 1910 to 1914 it in- creased 48.5 per cent. Two hundred million dollars is now invested in this industry in California. The development of the markets can be ex- pected to keep pace with the growth in pro- duction, at least until such a time as the amount of honey produced equals the output of many minor articles of food not in general demand. When we consider the enormous development of which the beekeeping industry is capable, there is certainly no need of being alarmed about over-doing it, while still much less than one per cent. of the available honey harvest is being gathered. To the author’s way of think- ing there is no better opportunity for the man of limited means in the whole agricultural field than is offered by beekeeping. CHAPTER III THE HONEY BEE FAMILY Wiru all the multitude of species of insects, man has been able to adapt very few to his own immediate needs. Hundreds of insects render an indirect service, such as the pollenation of blossoms, and a few have been used for food, as John ate locusts in the wilderness. Because of the social habit whereby thousands of bees live together in a single community and lay up a common store of honey, man has been able to provide them with a suitable home, in the hive, and so to manipulate the combs which they build as to greatly increase the amount of honey stored and to profit thereby. By the preven- tion of swarming at the time when the honey harvest is at its best, by reducing the number of non-producing drones which the colony is per- 25 26 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK mitted to raise and by improving the strain by selecting queens from the most vigorous stock, it is possible to secure several times the amount of surplus that could be taken from bees in the old-fashioned box hive or gum, managed on the let-alone plan. Other insects, such as ants, termites, etc., have formed communitites and live from a com- mon store. However, none of the others are of direct service to man as is the bee. For cen- turies their habits have been studied and much still remains to be learned concerning them. The life of the hive centers in the queen, which is the mother of the Tue Bee FamIty. colony and upon whose vigor the prosperity of the hive depends. Should she die, and the bees be unable to replace her, the colony would soon perish. While the workers are also females, the sexual organs are undeveloped and they could not supply the place of the queen mother. In queenless colonies laying workers often ap- THE HONEY BEE FAMILY QT pear, but since they have never been mated, their offspring are all drones and the life of the community is not thereby prolonged. A prosperous hive contains many thousands of workers whose purpose in life is the gathering of the food supply, building of the combs, pro- tection of the store, cleaning the hive and other labor necessary to the comfort of the inmates. The drones are males, but do not share in any productive work for the community. They are dependent upon their industrious sisters for their entire support and are tolerated, apparently, because of necessity for the per- petuation of the species. Late in fall when con- ditions no longer favor the gathering of honey, and when brood rearing has greatly diminished, or in seasons of scarcity, they are driven from the hive to perish. In common with other insects, bees pass through four stages in completing their devel- opment. Strangely enough, different periods 28 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK of time are necessary for the growth of the dif- ferent sexes and even of the queen and worker. First the eggs are laid by the queen mother, who lays hundreds and even thousands daily during the height of the season. Worker eggs are laid in the same kind of cells in which the honey is stored. Drone eggs are laid in similar cells somewhat larger in size, while eggs which are to produce queens are laid in specially built cells shaped like an inverted thimble and which have little depressions giving them something of the appearance of peanuts. At times only worker eggs will be laid for days at a time. When the colony gets very strong, and the hive is getting crowded, eggs will be laid in drone cells also, and queen cells may be built in prep- aration for swarming. Three days are required for the eggs to hatch, all the eggs being alike in this respect. For the first three days all the larve are ap- parently treated alike, being fed on royal jelly, THE HONEY BEE FAMILY 29 a milky white substance furnished in abun- dance by the nurse bees. When the eggs hatch the little larve are very delicate, white in color, and show few external organs. By close ex- amination the beekeeper can see them floating in the royal jelly so freely supplied. The queen larve are fed with this rich food through- out the entire larval period and complete the larval development in about a half day less time than is required for the workers. Any worker egg may be made to develop into a queen if the egg or newly hatched larva is transferred to a queen cell where it is fed on the richer food and has the larger cell in which to develop. Beekeepers take advantage of this fact. to rear queens from good stock in large numbers. The worker and drone larve are only fed royal jelly during the first three days of their growth and then are weaned and fed on coarser food. Six days are required for the development of the worker larve and a few hours longer for 30 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK the drones. During the earlier stages of their development the little larva remain curled up in the bottoms of the cells, but when they com- plete their growth they stretch out lengthwise in the cells and spin very delicate cocoons and the cells are sealed over with wax. The bee now enters upon the third stage of its life, that of the pupa. During this stage it takes no food and remains in absolute quiet. In something less than eight days the queens will complete the transformation, only sixteen days being required from the time the egg is laid until the mature queen is ready to leave her royal cell. The workers require twelve days for this stage and drones fifteen days. Twenty- one days is the time required for worker bees to develop from the egg and twenty-four days for the drone. It will be seen that it takes eight more days for the male bee to develop than for the perfect female, and three days more than for the worker or modified female. THE HONEY BEE FAMILY 31 The normal food of the bee is honey and pollen, both of which are gathered from flow- ers. Water is essential, especially during brood rearing and the bees seek it eagerly in early spring. In time of scarcity bees will take fruit juices or other sweets, but when there is plenty of nectar in the fields they pay little at- tention to anything else. At such times even honey may be exposed in the open air for days without attracting the bees. Nectar.—Since the bees are known to be very useful in distributing the pollen among the flowers it seems that nectar is secreted for the purpose of attracting the bees and other insects and thus insuring proper fertilization of the bloom. When first gathered by the bees it is very thin and watery, but a change of com- position, called inversion, takes place in the honey sac of the bee, in which it is carried to the hive. After being placed in the cells it is evap- orated and thickened and finally sealed. If 32 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK honey is taken from the hive too soon it is thin and will sour. The process of evaporation and thickening which takes place in the hive is called ripening. Usually honey that is well sealed is sufficiently well ripened for use, but honey from some flowers requires a good deal of time before it will reach the best condition. Pollen, often called bee-bread, is used in large quantities as food for the young bees. A mixture of pollen and honey furnishes food for the worker larve after they are three days old. Both queens and drones when in the hive are fed by the workers. Aside from pollen and nectar the bees also gather another substance, called propolis. This is used as a glue to close up the cracks on the approach of winter, to fasten down the cover, or other similar use. The beekeeper finds it difficult to remove the propolis from his hands after a few hours’ work in the apiary on a warm day. When the worker emerges from her cell she THE HONEY BEE FAMILY 33 does not go at once to the field, but remains within the hive for several days. At first she is as downy as a little chick and probably does nothing for a day or two. Soon, however, she begins her work as a nurse to the larve, which is probably her first duty. She shortly takes hold wherever a task needs attention, whether it be to feed the queen or drones, clean the hive, build combs, guard the entrance to the hive, or fanning to keep up a circulation of air, or any of the many duties necessary to care for such a large family. After a few days the young workers will take short flights outside the hive, thus becom- ing familiar with surrounding conditions. At first they fly back and forth in front of the hive, never going more than a few feet from the en- trance. With several hundred workers taking their first flights on a warm day, there is an appearance of great activity and the novice may be deceived into thinking that there is 3 34 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK much honey coming to the hive or that strange bees are robbing them. The distance of the flight is gradually lengthened until the worker becomes so familiar with the hive and its sur- roundings that it is no longer necessary for her to make note of her situation. She will then fly directly to the field and return to the exact place where the hive stood, even though it has been removed before she left. It thus becomes necessary to use great care in moving the hive to either make the distance so great that every- thing will be strange and the bees will make note of the change or else move it but a very short distance each day so that they will be able to find it after they return to the former position. After the worker is two or three weeks old she will begin her trips to the field in search of honey or pollen and will continue the outside work as long as she lives. In summer when the harvest is on, the THE HONEY BEE FAMILY 35 worker bee lives but a short time, probably not much more than six weeks. If the harvest is over before she emerges from her cell she may * live for six months and help to begin the next season’s garnering. Tue Swarm.—When the warm days come in spring the population of the hive will in- crease very rapidly. Apparently there is no settled rule that governs swarming. It is the natural method of increase, and as soon as a colony becomes strong, preparations for a division of the household may be made. In late May or early June, in a favorable season, the hive will be getting crowded. Thousands of workers will be gathering honey and caring for the multitudes of young bees that are daily hatching. By this time drones will be getting numerous and an examination may disclose from one to a dozen or more queen cells. The box hive beekeepers of our grandfathers’ day would say that the bees will swarm, when they 36 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK begin to lay out in large clusters outside the hive. Practical beekeepers of the present day furnish the bees with sufficient room in which to work, and thus guard against such loafing. Under such conditions there was nothing for the bees to do but to swarm, since there was not room for them all in the hive, and, with honey abundant in the fields, the instinct to gather it was too strong to permit them to spend a sum- mer in idleness. When the beekeeper finds a number of queen cells in the hive at this season of the year he knows that the bees are preparing to swarm and makes plans accordingly. The bees will build queen cells also, when the queen is grow- ing old and beginning to fail. This is done to insure a young queen to replace the feeble mother and is called “ supercedure.” When the old queen is replaced during the honey flow the bees are very likely to swarm anyway, even though there is an abundance of room in the hive. THE HONEY BEE FAMILY 37 The swarm may issue at any time after the queen cells are sealed, though it often delays until the young queens are ready to emerge. Everything will apparently be going on as usual, when, suddenly, the bees begin to pour out of the hive like mad. They fairly tumble over each other in their haste to reach the open air, where they begin circling about with a loud buzzing. 'The queen may be among the first to leave the hive or she may be near the last. While her going is necessary, and unless she does go the bees soon return to the hive, there is no more attention paid to her going, as far as can be seen, than to that of any other bee. After circling about for a short time the swarm usually clusters on a limb of a tree, or in some other convenient place. The place which proves most convenient for the bees is often most in- convenient for the beekeeper when there are large trees about. The time was when there was a great beat- 38 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK ing of pans and other noise-making implements when the bees swarmed. The idea was that the noise would cause the bees to cluster. Bee- keepers know now that ninety-nine times out of one hundred they will cluster anyway with- out so much fuss, and the hundredth time they will leave without ceremony in spite of the noise. Clustering is a normal part of the swarming and is as much to be expected as any other natural impulse. It is an easy, matter to hive the swarm by placing a hive in position and shaking the bees in front of it. They will usually go in without difficulty. If a small cluster remains on the outside, care should be used to see that the queen is not left behind, for otherwise the bees will not stay long inside the new home. The first swarm to issue is called the prime swarm and there is no way to foretell its ap- pearance without an examination of the in- terior of the hive. Since the colony is divided THE HONEY BEE FAMILY 39 for the purpose of founding a new establish- ment, the bees will fill their sacs with honey so that they are prepared to begin building combs at once. The swarm may remain clustered for several hours, or even for a day or two, in rare cases. The beekeeper should be prepared to hive his swarm at once to prevent them from absconding, or leaving for parts unknown. It is evident that scouts are out in search of a new home. It often happens that bees will be seen about a suitable opening for several days, when suddenly a swarm will appear and take pos- session. Where swarms remain clustered for long periods, it is apparent that the scouts have not yet found a suitable habitation. The parent queen will leave the hive with the new swarm, which also attracts most of the field bees. The first queen to emerge from the cell after the swarm has left will usually seek for other queen cells and at once kill her rivals, unless she is prevented from doing so by the 40 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK bees. It often happens, however, that the bees have the swarming fever to such an extent that they are not satisfied with casting a prime swarm but will at once prepare for an after- swarm. In this case the queen is not permitted to injure the others still in the cells, but after a day or two a second swarm with this new queen will emerge. It often happens that sev- eral virgin queens will emerge and go with an after-swarm. Sometimes several after-swarms issue at brief intervals until the parent colony is reduced to a point where it is almost worthless. Excessive swarming results disastrously to the dreams of a honey crop on the part of the beekeeper. Where natural swarming is per- mitted, steps should be taken to see that not more than one swarm is permitted to issue. The usual method is to place the new swarm on the old stand and to move the old hive some dis- tance away. In this way the returning field THE HONEY BEE FAMILY 41 bees will go with the new swarm and the old stock will be so badly reduced that excess queen cells will be destroyed, and the bees will there- after attend to business. It is well, also, to open the hive and remove all queen cells but one, or if a virgin queen has already issued and is present in the hive to remove all remaining queen cells. Ture Marine Fiicur.—When the young queen has been out of her cell from four to eight days she takes her mating flight. In the mean- time she takes short flights outside the hive, apparently for the purpose of marking the lo- cation. When time for mating arrives she circles high in the air, pursued by drones that chance to be flying near at hand. The mating always takes place in the air, the act being fatal to the drone. One mating is sufficient for life, under normal conditions, and the queen returns to the hive to remain until such time as she shall leave with a swarm. If perchance the queen 42 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK fails to become fertilized at the proper time, she disappears or becomes a drone layer. It has been proved beyond question that an unmated queen can produce male offspring. In fact, this is rather a common occurrence in the apiary. An unmated queen is worthless, how- ever, since all her offspring will be drones, and unless she is replaced the colony will soon die. With a drone-laying queen, conditions in the hive are very similar to when there are fertile workers, as already mentioned. Since the drone is hatched from an unfertilized egg, he has no father. This is the case with several other in- sects, as is well known to naturalists. ACTIVITIES OF THE NEW CoLony.—As soon as the swarm is settled in the new quarters the bees will form a compact cluster for the purpose of secreting wax and building combs. The wax scales are exuded from between the segments of the abdomen. A high temperature seems to be necessary to enable the bees to pro- THE HONEY BEE FAMILY 43 duce the wax and several pounds of honey are digested for each pound of wax secreted. Within a few hours the wax scales will be plen- tiful and the bees will begin building the new combs. Since the queen will need worker cells for immediate use the first cells built will be all of the worker size. If the queen is prolific the bees may build the hive nearly full of worker cells, but ordinarily it will not be long until the bees have more comb built than she can occupy, so the bees begin to build drone cells, which are larger and apparently easier to construct. It often happens that a new swarm which is allowed to build the combs with- out interference will construct from one fourth to three-fourths of the combs of drone cells. Too much drone comb insures that the follow- ing season large numbers of drones will be reared and that the colony can never be very profitable. The drones not only require more food, because of their larger size, but they add 44 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK nothing to the product of the hive and consume large quantities of stores after they have reached maturity. This condition is easily pre- vented by filling the frames with full sheets of foundation. Foundation is pure beeswax rolled very thin and impressed with the exact size and shape of worker combs. The bees are quick to avail themselves of this big start toward building their combs and a hive full of worker combs is the result. If the swarm finds a home in a hollow tree or other natural cavity or is hived in a box, the combs will be curved and built in an irregular fashion, that facilitates the passing from one part of the brood nest to another. The opera- tions of the beekeeper necessitate straight combs that can be examined without difficulty, so frames are placed in the hives and founda- tion placed in them as above mentioned, to in- sure straight and even combs, as well as cells of the desired size. THE HONEY BEE FAMILY 45 The combs serve the bees for several pur- poses. First the cells serve to provide snug receptacles for the young. They also serve as places to store the reserve food supply of honey and pollen and resting places for the bees. The combs when first built are white, gradu- ally growing darker with use until some old combs are almost black. However, there is a difference in color of the wax depending upon the source of the honey which the bees were gathering at the time. In some warm climates the wax is quite dark, and even in our northern states where white wax is the rule, some is yel- low even at first. CHAPTER IV NECESSARY EQUIPMENT THE equipment which the beginner should buy will depend upon the extent to which he wishes to engage in honey production, and whether he intends to produce comb or ex- tracted honey. If the intention is to engage in beekeeping on a commercial scale as soon as possible, a very careful study of the local flora and of honey-producing systems should be made before starting, in order to avoid the pur- chase of a large amount of equipment which will later be discarded. If the intention is to take up beekeeping merely as a diversion and only to keep a few colonies, extracted honey will probably be more satisfactory in nine cases in every ten. Equipment recommended in this chapter will be more especially for the novice who wishes to 46 w. NECESSARY EQUIPMENT 47 keep but a few bees. The advice will be sound, however, for the man or woman who wishes to develop as rapidly as possible into a commercial business. ‘‘ Productive Beekeeping,” by the Fic. 1—A good smoker. author of this book, is designed especially for commercial beekeepers, and considers many problems not possible in a book of this size. ImporTANCE OF A Goop SmoxeER.—The first implement that the novice should buy is a good smoker (Fig. 1). If he has black or mixed bees, it will be next to impossible to do 48 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK anything with them without the use of smoke. To appreciate the value of smoke in bee con- trol it must be remembered that the beehive contains a highly organized community. While apparently there is no overlord who directs the work, each individual dee fills a place in per- forming the duties of the hive. As mentioned in the previous chapter, some are nurses, some are foragers, some are guards, etc. Probably every bee that lives out her normal life cycle performs all of these duties at some period of her existence. The only division of labor seems to be one of age. The young bees feed the young, secrete wax, etc., while the older ones go to the fields for nectar, pollen, ete. Aside from this general division of labor be- tween young and older workers, the bees seem to take hold wherever inclination leads, or where the need is most pressing. Since the prime object of the labor of the community is the accumulation of a store of honey, guards NECESSARY EQUIPMENT 49 are very important to the safety of the hive. On the approach of strange bees or strange men, these guards are likely to use their stings vigorously to prevent the looting of their treasure. By the use of smoke, the beekeeper can quickly disorganize the whole community and tear the hive to pieces without resistance. If the bees are blacks, much more smoke will be necessary than with gentle Italians or Cau- casians. By placing the nozzle of the smoker against the front of the hive and blowing a few puffs of smoke into the entrance, and then re- moving the cover and blowing more over the tops of the frames, even cross bees are likely to be quickly quieted and to lose all thought of defence. Care should be used not to use any more smoke than is necessary, a very common fault with beginners. If the bees are gentle it will not be necessary to use smoke at the en- trance, but only a little across the top of the 4 50 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK frames when the cover is removed. During the honey flow it is often possible to manipulate the hives of gentle strains without using any smoke. When the smoke is blown into the hive the bees rush about confusedly for a moment, and then seek the open cells of honey. Their honey- sacs are filled as though they were about to swarm. When a worker bee is carrying a load of honey she seldom shows any desire to sting. This is why swarming bees are usually gentle. When the swarm is about to depart each bee will take a load, which will furnish a supply of available food for several days after the new home is reached. PROTECTION FROM Stincas.—While ex- perienced beekeepers often work among the bees without protection, especially during a honey flow, it is very unwise for the novice to do so. The experienced beekeeper is so famil- iar with the habits of the bees that he is not NECESSARY EQUIPMENT 51 likely to disturb them under conditions that will arouse serious resentment. On the other hand, the novice may be greatly surprised by a furore of excitement in the hive and numerous stings, even though he approaches the hive exactly as he may have done on other occasions without seeming to attract much notice from the bees. The inmates of the hive are very responsive to changes in weather or other conditions, and their temper varies accordingly. During a bright day when there is a good honey flow they may be very gentle, while on a chill or cloudy day when there is no honey coming from the fields, they may be very cross and easily aroused. A veil that will prevent the bees from reach- ing the head is easily made at home, or one can be bought from any dealer in bee supplies. While mosquito bar sewed to the rim of a straw hat will serve the purpose, it obstructs the vision and is not nearly as good as one made of 52 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK wire screen, sewed to the rim of a felt hat. An apron sewed to the bottom with a draw string in it, prevents the bees from crawling under. Some kind of gloves should also be worn to protect the hands. Any protection that will prevent the bees from reaching the exposed parts of the body, while permitting freedom of motion and unobstructed sight will answer the purpose very well. Fic. 2—The value of the hive tool is far above its cost. THE VALUE OF A HIVE TOOL cannot be meas- ured by its cost. While many persons get along with a small chisel or screw driver, the cost of a hive tool is so slight and it can be put to so many uses that one cannot afford to be without it, even though he has but two or three colonies of bees (Fig. 2). The hive tool is used to loosen the cover, pry up the frames, scrape off the burr combs and bits of wax and propolis NECESSARY EQUIPMENT 53 attached to unnecessary and _ inconvenient places, and for many similar purposes. If one has a small box or can in which to drop all stray bits of wax he will keep his frames in enough better condition to make his work much easier and pleasanter, while at the same time saving enough wax that would otherwise go to waste to pay for the tool many times over. BreE-Escares SHouLD Aso BE INCLUDED IN Even A SMALL OutrFit.—It is so easy to remove surplus honey from the hive by the use of bee-escapes that they are a practical neces- sity. These are of different kinds, but the principle is the same. The bees are able to go down but cannot return. By placing a honey- board containing an escape under a super the bees are all down in the hive below within a few hours, and the super can be lifted off and the honey removed without any annoyance of fight- ing bees (Fig. 3). If the super is taken off without using an escape it will be full of bees 54 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK which must be driven out. This takes time, is unpleasant and also results in more or less damage to the honey, as the bees will gnaw the cappings when smoke is used to drive them out. Escapes are inexpensive, and if one has but Fic. 3.—It is easy to remove honey from the hive by placing a bee-escape under the super. a few colonies of bees, but one or two will be necessary as the honey can be removed from one hive at atime. They can be bought singly at about fifty cents each, board and all. In quantities they can be had for still less. Use.ess EQquipMentT.—The author, in com- mon with most other beekeepers, has invested NECESSARY EQUIPMENT 55 many dollars in equipment which is never used. While there are other articles which can be conveniently used, and which become necessary in handling a large number of hives, the above meagre list includes all the tools actually neces- sary to care for three or four hives of bees run for comb honey. Hives and hive parts will be considered in the next chapter, but even with hives, simplicity and economy work for effi- ciency in honey production. Nearly every supply catalogue lists swarm catchers, and they are usually about the first thing purchased by the beginner, yet after vis- iting hundreds of apiaries the author cannot recall one where a swarm catcher such as is de- scribed in the supply catalogues is used for taking swarms. Queen and drone traps are not useless, but they are of little value and are very seldom used by an efficient beekeeper. It is far easier and cheaper to prevent the raising of too many 56 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK drones in the first place, which is easily done by the use of full sheets of foundation in the brood-frames, as explained later on. Numer- ous articles of this kind appear from time to time only to be discarded and their manufac- ture discontinued for lack of demand. The tendency of the supply dealers of late is to eliminate useless equipment from their cata- logues, so that the novice is not tempted by things of this kind as much as formerly. Ir A NUMBER OF COLONIES are kept, a sec- tion press for folding the sections and a founda- tion fastener will be necessary, as too much time will be required in preparing the comb honey supers without them. Since there are several different kinds described in every cata- logue of supplies, most all of which are good, it is not necessary for the author to state his personal preference here. To do so might lead the reader to buy the special kind, when an- other might suit him better after giving both a trial. NECESSARY EQUIPMENT 57 SpeciaL EQuipMENT FoR EXTRACTED Honry.—For the production of extracted honey, an extractor, of course, is necessary. A small two-frame hand extractor will be suf- ficient for the small apiary. A commercial apiary will need at least a four-frame machine, and many of them use eight-frame or larger machines. To extract the honey the beekeeper takes the frames of honey from the bees and carefully cuts the cappings from both sides of the comb with a warm knife. The frames are then placed in the baskets of the extractor and turned very rapidly (Fig. 4). The motion of the baskets whirling inside the big can throws the honey out of the combs and against the side of the can. It is then drawn off through a faucet in the bottom of the extractor. Ex- tracted honey differs from strained honey in thus being thrown out by centrifugal force, instead of being strained through a cloth after 58 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK the combs have been broken up. When the honey is extracted the combs are returned, un- damaged, to the bees to be filled again, while with strained honey the combs are destroyed, Fic. 4.—Honey is extracted by placing the combs in the baskets and revolving them rapidly. and more or less foreign material is mixed with the honey. Cost or Srartinc.—The price of bees varies in different localities. In general it is safe to presume that a full colony of bees can NECESSARY EQUIPMENT 59 be bought for ten to fifteen dollars where there are any for sale. Often if one can find a bee- keeper who is offering bees for sale, he will ask not more than half that price, unless he has pure stock. Three hives are included, as but little more time will be necessary to care for three colonies than for less. For Comp Honey Two pounds surplus foundation. Four pounds medium brood foundation. Three hives with one super each, nailed and painted. Three extra supers complete. Smoker. Hive tool. Veil. Two honey boards with escapes. For Extractep Honry Three two-story hives. Three extra supers, full depth. Eleven and a half pounds medium brood foundation. Smoker. Hive tool. Veil. Extractor. Uncapping knife. 60 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK If but one colony of bees is purchased the extra hives will probably be sufficient for the natural increase the first year at least. The man who expects to go into honey pro- duction extensively must expect to invest about ten to twenty dollars per colony in hives, bees, equipment, ete. Thus five hundred colonies of bees will represent a working capital of five to ten thousand dollars. In addition to the hives and equipment necessary for a few colonies, the large producer will need honey houses, cellars or wintering cases, and a team or automobile for getting his product to market and going to and from his various apiaries. CHAPTER V HIVES AND HIVE PARTS In their wild state bees lived in hollow trees or in cavities in the rocks. Instead of being straight, their combs were often built with a curve suited to the particular cavity in which they were built. Since the convenience of the bees in passing from one part of their hive to another was the only thing to be considered, the combs were built in a natural manner. When man first undertook to profit from the labor of the bees by supplying them with suitable shelter, he was content to furnish them with a hollow log, a straw skep, or a rude box and permit them to build their combs in their own way. Such honey as could be secured was taken from them by cutting out a part of the combs from the main cavity or by killing the bees and taking all their store. After a time 61 62 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK they were supplied with boxes with holes in the top and another box was set on top of the other. If the colony became strong and the lower box became crowded they would some- times fill the upper one also, and that would then be removed with little injury to the bees, since they would usually have sufficient stores below to keep them through the winter. It is easy to see that beekeeping could never develop into a profitable enterprise under such conditions. There are men still living who re- member the time when it was thought that there was no better way in which to keep bees. When Langstroth invented the movable frame hive, it resulted in the revolution of honey produc- tion and the development of an industry, which while yet in its infancy, adds millions to the wealth of the commonwealth, and from which many people derive their livelihood. Mr. Langstroth’s invention provided a sep- arate frame for each comb (Fig. 5) and led HIVES AND HIVE PARTS 63 the bees to build straight, instead of curved combs. This enables the beekeeper to reach any corner of the hive at any time desired and to remove combs which are full of honey and to replace them with empty ones, or if the col- Fic. 5.—The Langstroth frame. ony needs feed to give them full combs in place of the empty ones. Instead of a matter of guess it now becomes one of the most easily directed agricultural pursuits, for with a suitable sea- son, the beekeeper can so manipulate his col- onies as to obtain the maximum amount of honey. It is now possible to examine the brood nest at any time and ascertain whether or not 64 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK disease be present, whether the queen is prolific, or failing, or whether the bees are building queen cells in preparation for swarming. Kinps or Hives.—There are still several kinds of hives in the market, although not nearly as many as there were a few years ago. The supply dealers are finding it greatly to their advantage to standardize their goods and are making a conscientious effort to offer their customers only such as will give satisfactory results. There are still a few small hives of- fered for comb honey which should not be manufactured, and which in the writer’s opin- ion will not find a market much longer. In order to give the best results the brood cham- ber of any hive must be large enough to give a prolific queen plenty of room to lay, for it is only the strong colonies that pile up big crops of honey. Unless there is plenty of room for the queen to lay to the limit of her capacity, the colony can never store as much honey as it would under more favorable conditions. HIVES AND HIVE PARTS 65 The author always recommends the ten- frame Langstroth or dove-tailed hive for both comb and extracted honey. This hive is pre- ferred for the reason that it is in more general use, and has found favor with more people than any other hive. If the beekeeper proposes to produce only extracted honey, the Dadant hive with its deeper frame has some advantages which it will pay to consider well before making a final decision. The beginner who expects to keep only a few colonies for pleasure will find the ten-frame dove-tailed hive best for his pur- pose, for surplus stock can be sold in these hives more readily, and the same hivebody can be adapted to the production of either comb or extracted honey by simply a change of supers. Parts or H1ves.—Whether one intends to produce comb or extracted honey the brood chamber of the hive will be the same, as will the top and bottom. The super, which is the store room for the surplus honey, is very different, however. 5 66 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK The empty hivebody is like a box with neither top nor bottom (Fig. 6). Inside this hivebody the frames hang. The bees build a comb in each frame. Fig. 5 shows the empty { YS RERESENER Fic. 6—The hivebody is like an Fic. 7.—Hivebody with frames in empty box. place. frame. The beginner is often confused’ by the different kinds of frames offered in the cata- logue. Hoffman frames are the same size as the regular Langstroth frame, but they are so constructed that they are more nearly self- spacing. Fig. 7 shows a hivebody with frames in place. In late fall when no more honey will HIVES AND HIVE PARTS 67 come in, there is no need of supers, so with the addition of the top and bottom the hive will be complete as used at that season. Coms-Honry Stuprer.—Many beginners will prefer to produce comb honey, especially Fic. 8.—Hive for production of honey in sections, or comb honey. if they have only a few bees. At Fig. 8 will be seen a hive with comb-honey super in place and a second super showing parts beside it. Comb honey is marketed in the small sections which are designed to hold one pound. When filled entirely and well finished they will weigh six- teen ounces, but the greater part of the sec- 638 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK tions marketed fall somewhat short of the full weight. A comb-honey super for a ten-frame hive holds twenty-eight of these one-pound sec- tions. In the figure there is a section holder woot oe Fic. 9.—Hive for producing extracted honey. with four sections laying across the top. There is also a separator lying beside it. The sep- arator is a thin sheet of wood which is placed between the rows of sections to prevent the bees from building the combs too thick or uneven. By placing thin sheets of starter, or foundation in these sections as described elsewhere, the bees HIVES AND HIVE PARTS 69 are induced to build nice straight combs such as we see in the markets. Extractep-Honry Super. — Extracted- honey supers are of two kinds, the deep and the shallow. The author prefers the deep super because it is the same size as the hivebody, and serves the same purpose in an emergency. If the hives and supers are of the same size, it saves much needless duplication which becomes necessary if different sizes are used. Fig. 9 shows an extracted honey hive together with empty super by its side. It is in fact a two- story hive. The shallow super is very similar excepting that the frames are not so deep and the super correspondingly smaller. CHAPTER VI PASTURE FOR BEES SomME or THE PLants THat MAKE THE Best Honey 1n Various SEctions.—Since the invention of the movable-frame hive has made commercial honey production possible, it has been the dream of the beekeeping specialist to grow special honey-producing plants in suf- ficient quantity to insure a honey crop. At one time the Michigan Agricultural College sowed a field to Rocky Mountain bee plant to find out its value for the honey producer, but as yet no plant has been found that will produce nectar in sufficient quantity to justify its cultivation for honey alone. There are, however, a number of forage plants that are valuable both as sources of nec- tar and for hay or pasture, and beekeepers have sometimes found it profitable to pay part of the 70 PASTURE FOR BEES 71 cost of seed sown by neighboring farmers in order that they might profit by the honey. Alsike and white or Dutch clover are especially valuable for this double purpose. When clover is grown for seed an arrangement satisfactory to both farmer and beekeeper may be made, as the presence of large numbers of bees greatly facilitates pollination of the blossoms, with the result that a larger crop of clover seed will be secured. Sweet clover has long been a favorite with beekeepers, because of its abundant nectar secretion. For many years it was regarded as a weed, and its introduction was regarded with disfavor by farmers. In one locality of my acquaintance a beekeeping farmer so stirred his neighbors by sowing a small field of sweet clover that they sought to have him prosecuted for introducing noxious weeds. Sweet clover has now come into its own in that locality; many farmers are growing it, and the original 72 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK introducer has 170 acres of it on his 400-acre farm. He also has 300 colonies of bees, and more than a carload of the finest white honey is shipped from his apiary some seasons. Since it is not profitable to grow crops espe- cially for bee pasturage, the beekeeper must have land enough for a large acreage of some crop valuable for honey production and for forage for livestock, or he must select a loca- tion where suitable plants are grown. Unless he is surrounded with suitable flora he will find it difficult to grow a sufficient acreage of any plant to make his apiary profitable. Bees fly over an area from one to three miles in every direction from the hive. It is evident that considerable territory is required to grow a sufficient amount of bee pasturage to support even a moderate-sized apiary. Five to ten acres of any special crop will help, of course, but no very appreciable increase of honey will be noticed from such a small area, except under - unusual circumstances. PASTURE FOR BEES 73 PastuRAGE Earty IN THE SEASON NECES- sary.—No single crop will make a satisfactory dependence for the honey producer, although sweet clover will come as near doing it as any- thing. If the beekeeper wants to make honey production an exclusive business he should seek a location where there is a great variety of honey-producing plants through a long sea- son. Some of the sources that produce the largest yields are uncertain, yielding profitably only once in two to five years. Such a source is basswood. When there is a large acreage of basswood forest within reach the beekeeper should get a splendid crop from it now and then. But if this is his main dependence profit- able crops are likely to be several years apart. Some plant that yields nectar and pollen early in the season, to stimulate brood rearing in advance of the main flow, is of great import- ance. For this purpose fruit bloom and dande- lions are much sought for in the Northern 74 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK States. When nectar is coming to the hive the queen will be active and will lay large numbers of eggs. Young bees will shortly appear in large numbers, making strong colonies that are absolutely essential to storing profitable honey crops. After the long winters the colonies will be greatly reduced and some time will be re- quired to enable them to reach normal strength. When the main honey flow is from white clover, as in most of the Northern States, the beekeeper must lend every aid to get the bees ready for the harvest. Colonies that are weak at the beginning of harvest are seldom profit- able, as the honey flow will be over before they are ready for storing in earnest. Big colonies, with the hives fairly running over with bees, are the ones that pile up honey. To begin the season, as soon as frost is out of the ground and the days are warm enough for the bees to fly. the willows and maples fur- nish the first taste of nectar. The elms fur- PASTURE FOR BEES 75 nish large quantities of pollen, which is an essential food for the young bees. Following these, the fruit trees bloom and then the dande- lions. Thus there is no break. If nectar secre- tion is suddenly checked, the queen will stop laying until it begins again, unless the bees are fed to stimulate a light honey flow. Thus a locality that favors early brood rearing is one where the bees are ready for business when the flow from clover really begins. It often hap- pens that the clover flow does not last more than two to four weeks. Strong colonies will store a surprising amount of honey in that short period, which in many localities is the only source of surplus. Alfalfa is the principal source of nectar in many irrigated sections of the West. For some unaccountable reason it secretes little nectar in the humid regions east of the Missouri River, but many carloads of alfalfa honey reach the Eastern markets from Colorado, Idaho, Utah and other Western States. 76 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK A number of minor crops produce well in limited localities. Wild asters, of many species and of wide distribution, bloom late in the fall and often furnish a crop of honey in seasons when other sources have failed. The pariridge pea of the roadside is visited freely by the bees in the Northern States, but little is thought of it as a honey plant. In parts of Florida large crops are gathered from it. In some localities wild sunflowers are so abundant that the bees profit wonderfully, and a substan- tial addition is made to the beekeeper’s output. Goldenrod is an uncertain yielder in late au- tumn. In some localities it is valued very highly, and is sufficiently abundant to produce a profitable quantity of nectar; in other sec- tions the bees seldom visit it. Heartsease or smartweed, also called lady’s thumb, is an important source of honey in many places. In extremely wet years, when fields are too wet to plant to the usual crops or when PASTURE FOR BEES 77 large areas are overflowed, this plant often comes up over large areas and yields heavily to the bees in mid-summer. Plants like catnip, which are not abundant, but yield large quan- tities of nectar, add to the sum total of the sea- son’s production. Locality is the beekeeper’s big problem. If the locality is poor little can be done to improve it unless some profitable nectar-yielding plant is generally introduced into the neighborhood. The commercial growing of cucumbers and cantaloupes furnishes splendid pasturage for the bees during the season of bloom. Buck- wheat is one of the main sources of dependence in New York and other Eastern States, yet in Iowa it seldom amounts to much as a honey plant. It often happens that a season is unfavor- able in one place while a fair crop is gathered not more than ten to twenty miles distant, be- cause of rains or some other local condition. 78 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK The wide-awake beekeeper often avoids failure by moving his bees to favorable pasturage. The same general principles will apply to the Pacific Coast and the South, although the list of plants will be different. In mild climates where the bees can fly every week in the year, it is important to have as many plants that bloom during the season between honey flows as possible. IN CITIES AND TOWNS it is seldom advisable to keep a large number of colonies. Usually there is sufficient pasture from sweet clover and such weeds as motherwort along the canals and railroads, white clover on the lawns and such trees as basswood in the parks and along the residence streets to support the bees. The author often receives letters from city dwellers asking what crops they can plant in order to keep bees. There seems to be a common im- pression that it might be possible to grow enough of some nectar-producing plant in the PASTURE FOR BEES 79 back yard to supply the needs of a colony or two of bees without difficulty. Such persons are always informed that there is nothing that they can plant in such limited space which will make any noticeable difference in the product of the hive. ImporTANCE OF PoLLEN.—An abundance of pollen for spring brood rearing is very im- portant, and plants that produce pollen in quantity at this important season are second in value, only, to plants that yield a liberal surplus of honey. Without a plentiful supply of pol- len, brood rearing will not progress in a satis- factory manner, as it is absolutely essential for larval food. In most localities there is seldom a scarcity of pollen during the height of the sea- son, but in some places the bees do not find it plentiful at the time when they should be build- ing up in preparation for the honey flow. Rye flour, meal or other substitutes which will sup- ply the bees with protein are sometimes resorted 80 BEGINNER'S BEE BOO to im an emergency, but there is nothing equal to natural pollen for brood rearing. The sue- cessful beekeeper always studies the honey and pollen sources of his locality. There are many plants that furnish both honey and pollen, while there are others that furnish only one. Many of the plants which furnish pollen in greatest abundance furnish no nectar at any time. The corn plant furnishes pollen in: preat quantities, yet the blossoms do not secrete nee- tar. The bees are said at times to sceure a sweet substance from the base of the Teaves, and since aphids are sometimes found on the plant, honeydew, which is an inseet exeretion, may be gathered from this source. Ragweed, elm, cte., are also valuable sources of pollen. Dirrerences tx SraAson. There may be an abundance of blossoms of the best honey plants and yet, in some seasons, the bees will get but little honey. Just what conditions in- PASTURE FOR BEES 81 fluence the flow of nectar are not fully under- stood. One plant will yield most freely under given conditions when another will not yield at all. Some plants yield best under warm and moist conditions, while others require hot and dry weather. For this reason plants that fur- nish honey in quantity in one locality, often fail entirely in another. Alfalfa is one of the best honey plants in the West, but of little value in the humid climate of the East. Buckwheat is a dependable source in New York, but seldom produces any surplus in Iowa. All these things must be taken into account by the beginner who expects to realize a good return from his bees. He must learn the kind of blossoms on which to place the most depen- dence in his locality, and plan his operations so as to have his bees in the best possible con- dition at the time of the bloom of these plants. In Iowa it is of little importance to have col- onies strong after the close of the white clover 6 82 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK flow, except in a few limited spots. In some eastern localities it is not important that the colonies reach their maximum strength so early since there will be little for them to gather until after midsummer. In almost any locality there will be an occa- sional season when the honey crop will be a failure. There will also be several vears when poor or moderate crops are gathered and an occasional year when a bountiful harvest will be brought in by every colony of reasonable strength. It should always be borne in mind that it is only the strong colonies that gather the profitable crops. Tue Principat Honey Piants Northeastern States: Basswood, or Linden. Willows. Buckwheat. Maples. Clover, alsike, white, Milkweed. sweet, etc. All the Spanish needles. clovers yield nectar, but Indian currant, or coral some have corollas so berry. deep that the bees are MHeartsease, or smart- unable to reach it. weeds. PASTURE FOR BEES 83 Fruit blossoms. Apples, pears, peaches, straw- berries, raspberries and other fruits are valuable honey plants. both and pollen in abundance. Dandelions furnish nectar California: Yucca. Willows. Mustard. Rocky Mountain bee plant. Fruit, including orange, apple, pear, etc.” Clover, including sweet clover. Alfalfa. Lima bean. Alfilerilla and filaree. Teaas: Horsemint. Alfalfa. Basswood. Cactus or prickly pear. Catsclaw and _ huajilla, species of acacia. Wild sunflowers. Mezquit, or screw bean. Cotton, Vervain, or verbena. Wild sunflowers. Sumac. Asters. Golden rod. Prickly pear. Gum, or ‘eucalyptus, of which there are several species. Blue thistle. Manzanita. Carpet grass. Sage, of several kinds. Blue curls. Tarweed. Goldenrod. Sumac. White and sweet clover. Fruit, pears, etc., and such wild fruits as including apples, haw- thorne. Melons and cucumbers. Hoarhound, 84 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK Florida and Southeastern States: Gallberry. Palmetto. Tupelo. Partridge pea. Cow pea. Pepper bush. Hop tree. Pepper tree. Holly. Pennyroyal. Logwood. Rhododendron. Manchineel. Sourwood. Fruit, including orange, Snowvine. which yields well in Titi, both white and black. Florida. Tulip tree. CHAPTER VII SUGGESTIONS FOR GETTING STARTED WITH BEES Iv is usually best to seek out some beekeeper as near home as possible, and buy two or three colonies to be moved to the new location. If the bees are not in such hives as the buyer wishes to use they must be transferred with the atten- dant discomfort and danger of loss of brood and queen, as well as the severe setback given the colony in the operation. The up-to-date beekeeper who cannot get what he wants near home buys bees in pack- ages, queens included, and places them on full sheets of foundation in new hives. There is a minimum of trouble and bother, while the bees act much like a newly hived swarm and proceed to comb building at once. By this method it will be necessary to wait until there is honey to be had in the fields, so that the bees 85 86 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK can build their combs under favorable condi- tions. Since there are now numerous breeders who specialize in bees in combless packages it is an easy matter to buy whatever number are wanted and to get them at about the time de- sired. Correspondence with the breeder some time in advance will insure delivery at the proper time. Some care should be used to in- sure dealing with a reliable person. Since the bee journals go to a good deal of trouble to investigate the standing of their advertisers, it is easily possible to protect one’s self in ad- vance by writing to the editor of one of the journals and making enquiry about the stand- ing of the particular breeder with which one contemplates placing the order. If it seems desirable to purchase bees al- ready on combs, the novice should always have some experienced beekeeper examine them for him if possible, to insure that the bees are not queenless, or that there is not too much drone GETTING STARTED WITH BEES 87 comb in the hive. It often happens that the person wishing to buy bees will find it neces- sary to take about what is offered. If bees in poor condition are purchased, the buyer should pay accordingly and know what is necessary to put them in proper condition to harvest a prof- itable crop. Personally the author would pre- fer to pay a liberal price for Italian bees, on straight combs, in good hives, than to buy black or hybrid bees in undesirable hives at any price. The bother of transferring, the cost of new hives and queens and the time lost will amount to considerable, to say nothing of the irritation caused by such a disagreeable task. TRANSFERRING.—When the bees are pur- chased in such hives, it is usually the best plan to leave them in the old hive until they swarm. The new swarm should be hived in a new ten- frame hive and set where the old one stood. The old hive should be set close to one side of the new swarm, on the old stand. After about 88 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK a week set the old hive on the other side of the new one. The object of this is to get all the young bees as fast as they emerge to go into the new hive with the swarm. After three weeks from the time that the swarm issued all young bees will have emerged and they can then be shaken in front of the new hive with the swarm and the old hive broken up. The old combs ean be melted into wax. Another way is to set the new hive on top of the old hive at once and not wait for the bees to swarm. ‘The top of the old hive and bottom of the new one should, of course, be removed so that the new hive will serve as a super. Usually the queen will soon go above and begin to lay so that the old hive can be removed from underneath as soon as all the brood has emerged. Sufficient super room should be placed above the new hive to permit the bees to continue to work without crowding the new hive, or they may be slow to begin GETTING STARTED WITH BEES 89 housekeeping above and simply use the new hive to store their honey. Formerly it was a common practice to transfer bees by cutting out the combs from the old hive and tying them into the frames. The bees would fasten the combs to the frames and remove the strings. Such combs, however, are never very satisfactory and the plan is not to be recommended generally. There are times when bees are to be removed from the side of a building or hollow tree or other position where they are not readily accessible, when this method is necessary. In most cases it will be advisable to substitute new combs or full sheets of foundation, and to melt up the trans- ferred combs after the bees are established in the new hive. Time to Start.—In the Northern States the best time to begin beekeeping is in spring. When fruit trees are blooming is a good time. The bees can then find plenty of stores from 90 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK the beginning, and if the season be favorable they should store a crop of honey for their owner the first summer. The fruit trees bloom several weeks before the main honey flow, so that there is time for a small colony to build up and become popu- lous before the blooming of the white clover, which is the main source of nectar east of the Missouri River. Movine Brrs.—If bees are bought which are already on combs there are several things to be considered. If they are moved but a short distance, many of the bees will go back to the old location. If the distance is two or three miles or more there will be little to fear on that score. For shorter distances some means must be taken to insure that they will make note of their new location before going to the fields. It is a common practice to put the colony in a dark cellar for a few days before setting them on their new stand, and then to jar the hive GETTING STARTED WITH BEES 91 somewhat when releasing them or take some other means of causing them to notice their new location. If they are to be moved but a few rods or across a small lot, the best way is to move them two or three feet each day. Even this short distance will cause them great confusion at first, although they will quickly adjust them- selves to it. If there be brood and honey in the hive and the weather be hot, there is great danger of melting the combs and smothering the bees when confined. Even if the hives are to be hauled but a few miles and be on the way only an hour or two plenty of ventilation should be given. It is very difficult to move bees heavy with brood and honey in hot weather, for the amount of heat generated is surprising. An empty super on top of the hive to give the bees a place to cluster, and this covered with screen to provide ventilation is as little as can be done 92 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK with safety. In addition, the entrance should be closed, and if the hive can be raised a few inches off the bottom to leave a space under the frames it is very desirable. Nearly every beekeeper of experience can point to some dis- astrous result of moving bees without sufficient ventilation. In cold weather or when there is little brood in the hive, the difficulties are much less. STARTING BEEKEEPING COMMERCIALLY.— To the man who expects to make beekeeping a business some of the advice above given will hardly apply. He will wish to start on a larger scale and increase as rapidly as is consistent with safety in order to get returns as soon as possible. While many men have taken up bee- keeping without previous training and have succeeded, it is a better plan to spend a season in the employ of a successful apiarist and to become familiar with the general practice of beekeeping. He can then buy a reasonable GETTING STARTED WITH BEES 93 number of colonies and undertake their care with little risk. While the author is personally acquainted with one man who began by buying eight hundred colonies, even though he knew almost nothing about bees, and has been suc- cessful, there is a great deal of risk in such a venture. An epidemic of disease, a poor sea- son when robbing was bad or any one of sev- eral adverse conditions would result very disastrously. While the general advice to begin with not more than two or three colonies may not always apply, it is much safer to begin with such a number as one can lose without seriously crippling one’s resources. An apiary of fifty colonies properly handled can be increased to three or four times that number in a season, and give the owner some valuable experience. The person who has not had some previous ex- perience may very well be cautioned against plunging too heavily on the start. Even though there were no other danger, one who has no 94 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK particular system in mind would easily be led into buying a lot of equipment which will be unsuited to the location in which he lives, or the system of honey production which he may later decide to follow. Cuoosine a4 Location.—To the man who expects to make honey production a business the choice of a location is a most important mat- ter. The honey plants within reach and the markets available for his crop are both prime essentials for success. If the locality is already well stocked with bees he cannot hope for a profitable venture unless he buy out some man already on the ground, and thus take over the bees that are already located. If there are long periods of time when no honey is gathered, it will draw too heavily on the stores to make a profitable season probable. A desirable location is one where there is some- thing from which the bees can at least get a living during most of the growing season, so GETTING STARTED WITH BEES 95 that the honey stored during the main honey flow will be mostly surplus. If there are two good honey flows so much the better. There are many localities where the bees get sufficient stores for early brood rearing from fruit bloom and dandelion blossoms, followed by a good flow from white and sweet clover and also an- other later flow from heartsease, Spanish needle or some other plant. An abundance of pollen early in spring is an important consideration, for without it the bees are slow in breeding up populous colonies, such as are essential for storing big crops (see Chapter VI). In some favorable markets honey brings twice the price that it does in others. If one is so situated that he can build up a profitable retail trade and thus realize the maximum price for his product, it will add materially to his income. In general it will not pay a man to leave 96 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK his home community and move to a distant state to engage in beekeeping, unless there is some reason for going other than to find bee pasturage, for there are few bonanza bee loca- tions. However, it often happens that a dis- tance of but a few miles in one’s own county will make a great difference in the possible honey production. The character of the crops grown, nearness to streams and similar things make more difference than long distances in miles. A neighborhood where alsike clover is grown for seed, or where there are large areas of white clover pasture, should be much better than neighborhoods where most of the land is cultivated in such crops as corn and wheat. The vicinity of fruit growers, or truck gardeners should be desired, other things being equal. Puacine THE APIARY.—An apiary should never be placed in an exposed position if it can be avoided. A sheltered position is very de- sirable, especially during the cold spring GETTING STARTED WITH BEES 97 months. A natural windbreak is much more serviceable in breaking the winds than a tight board fence or a building. Partial shade is to be preferred to open sunshine, at least for the comfort of the bee- keeper. While many apiaries placed in the blazing sun seem to give as good results as those in shade, the shaded situation, if not too dense, is to be preferred. Bees will not do as well in a situation where there is too much shade. Hives left in the open sun should be shaded with boards. Keerinc Down WEEDS AND Grass.— Some provision should be made for keeping the entrance of the hive free from grass and weeds. One often sees the hives surrounded with such a dense growth that the bees coming in with their loads can reach the hive with difficulty. Many heavily laden bees will be lost under such circumstances.. Hives should be so placed that when a bee drops to the ground in front she can 7 98 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK crawl in without having to take wing again. A half hour’s watch beside the hive during the height of the honey flow will soon demonstrate the importance of easy access to the hive for the home-coming workers. Hives set up on stakes or blocks are very difficult of access to bees that fall to the ground before reaching the alighting board. In most well-regulated api- aries the hives are placed on cement hive stands, or on boards so that the bees can walk right into the hive from the ground in front. If they are two or three inches higher than the ground around, a board is leaned against the front of the alighting board to bridge the gap. Provininc Warter.—It is important that water be easy of access, as the bees use large quantities of it, especially in spring when brood rearing is at its height. A tub or half barrel of water, covered with chipped cork or shavings which will enable the bees to reach the water without drowning will serve the purpose very GETTING STARTED WITH BEES 99 well. Such a watering place should be placed early in spring before the bees form the habit of visiting water troughs or pumps, and thus annoying the neighbors. It is a simple matter to provide water in some open dish with suit- able provision to save the bees from drowning, but it is important, unless there be a pond or stream within easy reach of the apiary. CHAPTER VIII WHEN BEES MUST BE FED ALTHOUGH under normal conditions bees not only gather their own food, but store a sur- plus for their owner, there are times when it becomes necessary to supply them with food. Every year hundreds of colonies die for lack of sufficient stores because their owner is careless or ignorant of their needs. It is very poor policy to permit the bees to starve, and it is easy to supply their needs in this direction. SWARMS WHICH ISSUE LATE will often be unable to gather sufficient honey to carry them through the winter. They can either be fed or united with stronger swarms which have a plen- tiful supply, as seems best. A large swarm will winter on less honey than a small one, and be worth much more in spring. The reason of this is very apparent. The source of the heat of the 100 WHEN BEES MUST BE FED 101 colony is the honey consumed and it will require a larger consumption of food to maintain the temperature of a small cluster than a large one, just as less fuel is required to warm a room full of people, than one in which there are only two or three persons. If the colony be a large one, it will pay to feed them a considerable amount of stores in order to get them through the winter, but a weak colony is usually worth more to strengthen medium or stronger ones than alone. IN REMOVING THE HONEY it often happens that an insufficient quantity is left for the bees. Before the bees are put away for winter, they should be carefully examined to make sure that a plentiful supply of stores is still in the hive. An equivalent of five or six full combs will usually be needed, and sometimes more. It is much safer to leave more than they will need than to take chances on an insufficient supply. 102 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK The author usually plans to leave at least forty pounds of honey for wintering. If the following spring is mild and favorable, it will not all be used, but if the weather in March and April is cold and backward they will often need to be given an additional supply to keep up brood rearing until the honey flow begins (see Winter Preparation). The usual advice to allow twenty-five pounds does not make a sufficient allowance for an unfavorable spring following the winter, and it is easier and safer to give a plentiful supply in the fall to insure safety until after fruit bloom. IN sEASONS OF scaRcITY the beekeeper should always examine his colonies to make sure that they have sufficient stores. If the weather is cold and wet in early spring so that the bees have little opportunity to fly, there is danger that all stores will be consumed in brood rearing and the colony will perish, as already WHEN BEES MUST BE FED 103 stated. This is a common occurrence among bees whose owners give them little attention. Almost every season there will be times during the summer when no honey is coming to the hives, and if this condition prevails for any length of time the owner should guard against starvation. The author has known of many colonies starving in June, just at what should have been the time of a good honey flow. A long continued spell of rainy weather during which the bees could not fly was the cause. If such weather follows the time when the honey is taken from the hives at any time, some at- tention is necessary to guard against disaster from lack of food. Occasionally there will be a year when little honey is stored all season through. At such times there is great loss, for too many bee- keepers depend upon the bees looking out for themselves, and never make any provision for feeding them. It would be no more foolish to 104 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK permit cattle or hogs to die of starvation be- cause the forage crops are not sufficient, than to allow the bees to do so. They will harvest enough honey in a few weeks of good honey flow to tide them over a very long period of adverse condition. For QuEEN REARING AND BUILDING UP Nucie1—At any time during the summer when the honey flow stops and the bees stop bringing honey to the hive, the queen will check her egg laying. The queen breeder who wishes to raise queens at such seasons, or the beekeeper who has a lot of nuclei (small colonies made by division), will often find it necessary to feed the bees, even though there is plenty of honey in the hive. Brood-rearing must continue in these small colonies if they are to become suf- ficiently populous to winter as strong colonies. A little sugar syrup every day, in imitation of the natural amount of honey coming to the hive, will greatly assist in keeping the queen at her regular duties. WHEN BEES MUST BE FED 105 How to Frrp.—The best possible feed for bees is the natural food, which is honey. The beekeeper will do well to reserve one full comb for every colony of bees that he has for feed- ing in case of emergency. This does not in- clude the feed to be given at the close of the honey flow for the purpose of wintering, but there should be a liberal reserve after the bees are ready for winter, to insure an abundance of honey for spring brood-rearing. Some seasons it will not be needed, but it is very convenient to have at such times as feeding is necessary. One great advantage in using natural stores is the ease with which it can be given. When a colony is found that needs stores, all that is necessary is to remove an empty comb and give a filled one in its place. Frepine Sucar Syrup.—lf sealed honey is not available, sugar syrup is the next best thing. The author would never advise feeding extracted honey, since it is more convenient to feed sugar. 106 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK The novice will very often feed his bees with corn syrup, molasses, or other sweet, with the mistaken idea that the bees can make use of any sweet substance. Such experiments often re- sult in the death of the bees. If honey is not at hand, granulated sugar is the only thing that should be used. It is not safe to buy honey for feeding, because of the danger of getting honey from diseased colonies and thus bringing dis- ease into the apiary. A thick syrup should always be used for winter feed. Usually two parts sugar to one of water are used. By dissolving the sugar in boiling water and stirring freely the sugar will dissolve fully. Many use equal parts of sugar and water because it is easier to prepare the syrup than when a thicker one is made. When feeding for winter, it is well to save the bees as much as possible, especially if it be late in the season. In spring when feeding for brood- rearing or to carry the bees over a temporary WHEN BEES MUST BE FED 107 shortage of nectar, a thinner syrup will do. Frrepers.—The purchase of unnecessary equipment should always be discouraged. While at times a lot of feeders are convenient, the careful beekeeper will be able to plan his operations in such a manner as seldom to find use for them. As convenient a way of feeding as the writer has ever seen is that practiced by D. E. Lhommedieu, a well-known Iowa bee- keeper. He makes his syrup in a wash-boiler and when ready for use takes empty combs and holding them at an angle of about forty-five degrees, pours the warm syrup into them with an ordinary dipper. The syrup must not be hot for wax melts at a low temperature and if too hot it would injure the combs. By turning the comb first on one side and then over and filling both sides, it will hold enough syrup to make a very good supply for temporary pur- poses, such as spring stimulative feeding. If there be a long-continued dearth, several such 108 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK combs will be needed. These filled combs of syrup are placed in the hive in the same way that combs of honey or empty combs are given. Another method which utilizes equipment that every beekeeper has at hand, is to take an empty super and place on top of the hive. In this empty super is placed a tin pan of syrup and over the syrup a thin cotton cloth is spread. The bees can walk over the cloth and suck the liquid through it with little danger of drown- ing. The super is placed on the hive in the same manner as supers are for the storing of honey and the cover placed over all. Being directly over the cluster there is a minimum danger of starting robbing, as often happens when feed is placed near the entrance. There are numerous different kinds of feed- ers on the market and the reader who wishes something different can find them listed in the catalogue of any dealer in supplies. CHAPTER IX USE OF FOUNDATION One thing which has been impressed upon the writer by his work as a bee inspector, is the enormous losses among beekeepers gen- erally from rearing useless drones. It is not uncommon in neglected apiaries to find hives with one-third to more than one-half drone comb. In some apiaries where good equipment is used and fairly good practice followed other- wise, this fault is apparent. It is very evident that the owners of such outfits cannot realize the great cost of rearing such large numbers of loafers instead of producing a profitable work- ing force. If they did, such conditions would not be tolerated. It requires as much food and attention from the nurse bees to rear drones as workers, and the drones will continue to be a tax on the col- 109 110 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK ony after they reach maturity, since they are consumers and not producers. It will be read- ily seen that a colony which is producing twenty per cent. or more of drones will seldom yield a satisfactory profit to the owner. At the Iowa Beekeepers’ Convention, C. EK. Dustman had an, interesting paper on drones. He estimated that a square foot of drone comb in the hive would produce more than two thousand drones, while the same space and food might have been made to produce more than three thousand workers to add to the hive’s productive force. The writer has often found it hard to con- vince the novice of the value of full sheets of foundation. The first cost looks large and too often the bees are permitted to build their own combs with but a narrow strip of starter to pre- vent building crosswise. The two illustrations (Figs. 10 and 11) which we show in this con- nection tell more than pages of description. The impressions on the foundation being the USE OF FOUNDATION 111 v4 ets ee See iites Bornes Fic. 11.—A comb composed largely of drone cells as a result of a narrow starter. 112 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK exact size and shape of the bases of worker cells, the bees will build mostly worker cells where foundation is used. Drone cells being larger require less wax in their construction and less labor as well. This being the case wherever worker cells are not needed for immediate use to meet the needs of the queen, drone cells will be built, for they serve equally as well for stor- ing honey. Fig. 10 shows an ideal comb, at- tached on all four sides to the frame and composed entirely of worker cells most of which contain sealed brood. Fig. 11 shows a comb which is composed mostly of drone cells as a result of using a narrow starter instead of a full sheet of foundation. The high arched cappings show that many of these cells contain sealed drone brood. The cost in honey to rear a single brood of drones in such a comb would pay for a full sheet of foundation. This comb can be used as an extracting comb, but is a nuisance, since if it chances to get into the USE OF FOUNDATION 113 brood nest the queen will make use of it to rear a brood of drones. Usually it will pay better to melt up such a comb at once and replace it with a full sheet (Fig. 12) rather than risk getting it used in this manner. IRREGULAR COMBS, also, are often built Se a a) Fic. 12—Full sheet of foundation in wired frame, ready for the bees. where narrow strips are used. Not only are the combs likely to be composed mostly of drone cells, but they are likely to be uneven, which makes them undesirable. Uneven combs can- not readily be exchanged, and much time is also lost in uncapping or manipulating them. The bees will always build some drone cells 8 114 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK in the best regulated hives, and a small number are not objectionable. The presence of some drones is necessary to insure the mating of young queens, but there is little danger that there will be a shortage for this purpose under normal conditions. Where full sheets of foun- dation are used, small clusters of drone cells are often built in the corners or at the ends. If combs are damaged in any way, the ten- dency is always to repair them with cells of the larger size. Mice are fond of gnawing the combs and where the hive entrances are left wide open in winter, they are likely to enter and cause much damage. If the mice do not disturb the bees to the point where the colony will per- ish before spring, there will still be much dam- age to the combs. The portions that are rebuilt the following season will usually be composed of drone cells. The writer is not only convinced that it pays to use full sheets of foundation in the brood USE OF FOUNDATION 115 chamber, but fully believes that without them honey production is seldom profitable. That he practices what he preaches is evidenced by the fact that as this is written he is just finish- ing the preparation of more than twelve hun- dred frames of full sheets for use in one small apiary to replace discarded combs, and to pro- vide reserve extracting combs. Without a large working force, big crops can never be harvested. The rearing of several thousand worthless drones to consume the honey, take the attention of the workers and get in the way generally, does not tend in this direction. FounpDaTION IN SEcTIONS.—Some kind of starter is absolutely essential to getting the bees started to work in the comb-honey supers. It is very common practice to use a three-cor- nered piece of thin foundation no more than two inches across and sometimes much smaller. It is difficult for the bees to work to advantage on such small starters. Full sheets which lack 116 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK not more than a quarter of an inch of reaching the bottom or sides are much more economical, for they furnish the bees with a sufficient Fic. 13.—Different methods of using foundation in sections. The section at the left with full sheet and bottom starter is the best method. amount of wax to start working nicely and room enough to permit a nice little cluster to Bs Z S Fic. 14.—The thin sheets of wax are impressed with the cell bases of proper size to induce the bees to build worker combs. work at one time. Thin or extra thin founda- tion should always be used in the sections. It costs more per pound, but is so much lighter USE OF FOUNDATION 117 that a pound will go much further, and it is much better adapted to this purpose than the heavier foundation used in the brood frames. Not only do the bees occupy the sections more readily where full sheets are used, but they build more even combs and store more honey as a.result (Fig. 13). Economizing in the use of foundation is much like saving seed when one is planting a crop. While it costs more to use full sheets to begin with, so much more honey will be stored as a result that the increased cost is a profitable investment. Fig. 14 shows how the thin sheets of wax are impressed with the cell base which induces the bees to build worker combs. CHAPTER X BREEDING BETTER BEES Goon stock is as important to the beekeeper as to the stockman. It is, however, a much simpler matter to improve the strain of bees in an apiary than to make a similar change in a herd of cattle or even a flock of chickens. The life of the honeybee is short and the placing of a pure queen at the head of the colony will have the effect of replacing the whole working force of a hive with pure stock within a few weeks, or months, at most. If the colony is requeened in spring or summer the former stock will be replaced in a very short time. If the change is made in late autumn many of the late maturing bees from the former queen will remain in the hive until the following spring. During the honey flow the bees work at a furious pace and the whole colony is in a fever of excitement. As 118 BREEDING BETTER BEES 119 a result the individual soon wears her life away in adding to the store of the community. THE QUEEN Is Propuctive.—Since all the eggs from which this large working force is produced are laid by one queen, she must be enormously productive. All the beekeeper’s plans are laid with the end in view of bringing each colony to the beginning of the honey har- vest with the greatest possible number of bees in the hive. One extra strong colony will store more honey during a heavy flow than two or three medium colonies, and often more than a dozen weak ones. It is estimated that queens in populous colonies lay from two to three thousand or more eggs daily during the height of the season. In spite of this large produc- tion the colony often does not apparently in- crease in strength after the honey flow is really on, so rapidly do the workers wear themselves out in the harvest field. It is then of the utmost importance for the 120 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK beekeeper to breed from the most prolific queens. While this is of first importance, since it largely determines the size of the crop, there are other important characteristics which must not be overlooked. DestrasLé Tratrs.—No matter how good a record a colony may have for production, if the bees are cross and drive everybody out of the yard, the queen will not do to use as a breeder. Next to production, gentleness is the most desirable trait. If it were not for the fear of stings the number of beekeepers would be multiplied many fold. There are strains of bees which are very gentle under favorable con- ditions, and can often be handled safely with- out protection. Not long since the writer visited queen-breeding apiaries which are among the largest in the world. The propri- etor stated that he never uses a queen as a breeder when the colony cannot be handled safely without smoke. Beekeepers generally BREEDING BETTER BEES 121 use smoke to control the bees. While under general apiary conditions it is seldom desirable to undertake operations without a lighted smoker at hand, there are often individual col- onies which will not resent the manipulation of the frames even though no smoke is used. The selections of the queens at the head of such colonies for use as breeders, generation after generation, will hasten the time when stings will seldom interfere with the work of the beekeeper. Following production and gentleness the non-swarming tendency is greatly to be desired. While there is much difference in the strains in this respect, it is to a much greater extent under the control of the beekeeper than the other factors named. If the bees swarm and the working force is divided at the beginning of the harvest, the crop is likely to be reduced as a result, unless the flow lasts for a long period. In most localities where honey production is 122 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK followed extensively the honey flows are rapid and of short duration. It is of great import- ance under such conditions to keep the colony together until the harvest is gathered. Hence the non-swarming tendency is desirable. Tue Marte ParentraGe.—One - serious drawback in queen breeding is the difficulty of controlling the male parentage. The queen mates on the wing and often meets a drone from a distant colony which may be of another race or inferior stock. The man who cannot send his queens to some isolated position where there are no other bees within four or five miles can do little to overcome this condition, other than to raise such large numbers of drones from his desirable colonies that the chances of meeting undesirable males is very greatly reduced. Another difficulty lies in the fact that the quality of the male offspring is determined rather by the mating of the mother of the BREEDING BETTER BEES. 123 queen than by her own. If it so happens that a queen has no opportunity to mate, she may still lay large numbers of eggs which will hatch, but they will all produce drones. If her mother was purely mated her offspring will be pure, but if her mother was mismated, her drones will be impure, regardless of the fact of whether she is purely mated herself or whether she be mated at all. It thus sometimes happens that a mismated queen whose mother was purely mated will produce drones which are pure, and her female offspring influenced by her own impure mating will all be crosses. It should be mentioned in passing that one mating is sufficient for life and a mismated queen is unable to produce pure offspring from later pure matings. THe Practica, Resutt.—While the above conditions add greatly to the perplexities of the queen breeder who would breed scien- tifically, they offer decided advantages to the 124 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK beekeeper who wishes to improve his stock in the quickest time and with least expense. By buy- ing a purely mated queen and breeding from her he can soon change the conditions in his apiary even though his young queens meet im- pure drones. If he has, say, one hundred colonies of bees and will rear one hundred queens from the purely mated mother and re- queen all his colonies his yard will soon be full of pure drones. At the same time the workers will all be crosses since the young queens have had no opportunity to meet pure drones on their mating flights. If the yard is requeened early in spring a second lot of queens can be reared in late summer from the same purely mated mother. By this time most of the original drones will have disappeared and the apiary will be abundantly supplied with pure males. The second lot of queens will meet pure drones and they can be used to replace the mismated stock already present. In this simple BREEDING BETTER BEES 125 manner the entire apiary of one hundred col- onies can be changed from undesirable impure stock to pure stock of selected strain in one or, at most, two seasons and with little expense aside from the labor of the beekeeper. The beekeper can readily secure good stock at from one dollar to two dollars each for queens and selected queens at a somewhat. higher figure. MetTHops oF ReEaARING QvueEens.—The methods used for rearing queens will depend upon the number needed and the conditions under which the beekeeper is working. If only a few are wanted it is an easy matter to remove the queen from the colony from whose off- spring it is desired to produce them. In a nor- mal colony as soon as the queen is removed the bees will proceed to build cells to rear queens to make sure of replacing the mother of the colony. As soon as the queen cells are sealed they can be removed very carefully and one 126 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK placed in each of the hives which are to be re- queened. The queen to be replaced must be removed about twelve hours before the cell is given, or it may not be accepted. The cell should be fastened carefully in the center of the brood nest to insure that it will not be chilled. One cell must be left in the parent colony to replace the queen taken away in the beginning, unless she is to be returned. By this method the queens are mated from the hives in which they are to remain, and the beekeeper only needs to make sure that the col- onies where the young queen fails to return safely from the mating trip are given another cell or queen. While this plan is simple and will serve all purposes where but a few queens are wanted, it is too slow for extensive use. When large numbers of queen cells are wanted, artificial cells, made of beeswax and shaped as nearly as possible like an embryo queen cell are utilized. To begin with, a colony BREEDING BETTER BEES 127 is made queenless and permitted to start queen cells. From these a supply of royal jelly is secured. Royal jelly is a milky, jelly-like, sub- stance which the bees feed freely to queens in the larval stage. This richer food and the larger cell are sufficient to enable a young larva from a worker cell to develop into a queen. The brood is now taken from this cell-start- ing colony and given to another colony. The object of removing the brood is to relieve the nurse bees from brood rearing and to center all their attention on the rearing of queens. The beekeeper then takes a supply of the artificial cells which are attached in rows to an empty frame (Fig. 15). In each cell a small drop of royal jelly taken from the naturally built cell is placed. With a small instrument made for the purpose, a newly hatched larva is re- moved from a worker cell and placed in each of the artificial cell cups. The larva should not be more than twenty-four hours old, and 128 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK some of the best breeders advise the use of larve not to exceed twelve hours old. The frame is then placed in the middle of the hive oe, ohne ce A Rebs Par es q ; < f S: - : it ca eae Se I : | Fig. 15.—Queen cells produced by the cell cup method. occupied by the queenless and broodless col- ony. A large part of the cells should be accepted and within twenty-four hours should be well built up. The cell-starting colony will BREEDING BETTER BEES 129 not be permitted to finish the cells, but they are taken away and placed in the middle of another hive which occupies two stories, with the queen in the lower story and an excluder between to Fic. 16.—The queen excluder prevents the queen from passing into the super. The workers being smaller readily pass through the openings. keep her from going above and destroying the cells which are placed in the upper story (Fig. 16). The first colony is then given another lot of cells to start. Only strong colonies should be used for cell starting or finishing, since the best queens are not produced in small colonies. Larer TreatMent.—While the worker bees require twenty-one days for development 9 130 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK from the time the egg is laid, as described in Chapter III, the queen completes her growth in only sixteen days. On the eleventh day after the young larve are placed in the cells the queens will be nearly ready to emerge and it will be necessary to remove the ripe cells from the finishing colony. If they are to be used to requeen an apiary at once, the simplest way is to place one in each colony to be requeened, twelve hours after the old queens are removed. If they are to be kept for a time, it will be neces- sary to provide nuclei for the purpose of get- ting them mated. Fig. 17 shows a very satisfactory one for this purpose. An ordinary hive has been divided into three separate com- partments with the entrance to the middle one at one end, and an opening at each side for the outside ones. By this plan one hive serves for three and the bees are not able to pass from one apartment to another. In each, two frames of brood and bees are placed, without queens, BREEDING BETTER BEES 131 of course, and each is given one of the ripe cells. Usually the young queen will be mated and laying within two or three weeks from the time Fic. 17.—Hive divided into three compartments for mating queens. the cell is given. If the beekeeper wishes to mate a large number of queens and has a lim- ited supply of bees, he can get along very well by placing one frame of brood and bees in each 132 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK nucleus and also giving an additional frame with some honey. The newly mated queen will soon begin to lay and the little colonies will gradually grow stronger if conditions are fav- orable. In this way one strong colony broken up into nuclei will furnish sufficient bees to care for six or eight queens. Extensive queen breeders break up large numbers of colonies in spring to enable them to rear enough queens to supply their trade during the summer months, and they are again united in fall and wintered as full colonies. One firm was using fifteen hundred such nuclei at the time of the writer’s visit and were send- ing out nearly ten thousand queens that season. “ Practical Queen Rearing,” by the author of this book, gives an exhaustive account of the various methods of rearing queen bees both for home use and for commercial purposes. CHAPTER XI GETTING THE HONEY TO MARKET In most cases the beginner will find his local market the best place to sell his crop. It is usually possible to develop a local market for a small crop at much better prices than could be realized by selling through commission merchants in a large city. The man who sells at home is able to get retail prices for much of his product and to save the amount that would otherwise be consumed in freights and com- missions. The man or woman who expects to follow beekeeping as a business will make a great mistake if he fails to ask a good price for his product in the beginning. Too many are willing to sell their honey at retail, at the wholesale prices. This is a serious injury to the market and always tends to depress the prices. If one never expects to have much 138 134 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK honey to sell he should still have some regard for the rights of others and sell at a reasonable price. If one has anything to give away he may well do so, but should not injure his neigh- bor who depends upon honey production for a livelihood by cutting prices. Production of a commodity is one thing and selling it is quite another. If the producer chooses to market his product at retail he should get paid for the selling as well as the production of his crop. ReacHinec THE Distant Marxet.—On one occasion the writer made a journey to Chicago to see what could be learned about the marketing of honey through the large whole- sale centers and also something of the best re- tail trade in a large city. In order to learn as much as possible about conditions an effort was made to follow the honey from the producer to the consumer. This involved a study of the conditions of trans- portation by freight or express, a visit to the GETTING THE HONEY TO MARKET 135 wholesale district and to the retail stores which serve the best trade. One point that soon became very apparent was that of the hundreds of commission firms on South Water Street only a few handle honey at all. There were hundreds of crates of cabbages, celery, sweet potatoes, oranges, apples, and other staple products to one case of honey. It did not take the writer fifteen minutes to decide that the trouble was not due to over-production. After talking to a number of commission merchants who do not handle it at all as well as those who do, it began to look like the trouble was of quite a different kind. It looks very much to the writer like it is improper distribu- tion and lack of incentive for the merchants to push our product. A merchant dislikes to establish a trade for a product which he is un- able to supply. If even twenty per cent. of the commission merchants should undertake to 136 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK establish a trade in honey and should succeed to the extent that a few have done the supply would not last one-third the year. If a man orders honey from his grocer and is unable to get it, maple syrup or corn syrup will take its place and the next order will be for the substitute. Some beekeepers are forever talking about overproduction and lack of demand. When corn flakes first appeared on the market there was no demand but the manufacturers pro- ceeded to create a demand by extensive adver- tising and to fix the price at a point which would pay for their product and pay for the advertising in addition. Competition is very keen, especially in the large market centers. One firm visited, han- dled three million dollars’ worth of produce that year. This amount would make a pretty big hole in the honey crop for one season. «As it now stands there is no effort to supply GETTING THE HONEY TO MARKET 137 honey at all seasons of the year. The crop is moved as quickly as possible after it is har- vested with the result that the market is either crowded with honey or bare. A dealer who would build up a trade must depend upon buying large quantities long in advance and anticipate the demand of his trade for several months. The honey producers seem to be in about the same condition that the orange growers were in 1895 before they perfected their marketing organizations. Way Freicut Rates are Hicu.—To get back to the beginning, the first thing that con- fronts the honey producer who would send his honey to market is the matter of high freight rates. Too much care cannot be taken in pack- ing honey for shipment, not only to guard against damage in shipment but also to keep the number of broken packages down to the point which will enable the railroad to carry honey at a low rate and still make a profit. Too 138 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK many beekeepers take the attitude that it mat- ters very little, for in case the shipment is damaged in transit the railroad company will pay for it anyway. This is a mistaken view- point. Claims for damages are a part of the regular expense account of the railroad com- pany and when the damages absorb too large a part of the profits the rate is raised accordingly. It is not only the damage to the honey which results in a loss to the railroad but the damage to other goods which may happen to be in the same car with the broken package. As an ex- ample may be cited a case where a broken pack- age of honey damaged a shipment of silk. The railroad had to pay for both the honey and the silk, the latter, of course, worth many times the value of the honey. In many cases the damage from broken packages could be avoided if the producer would use sufficient care in preparing his shipment. It is easy to see that in the end the entire loss must be borne by the honey pro- GETTING THE HONEY TO MARKET 139 ducer. The careful shipper must divide the expense with the careless one, since the freight rate is made high enough to cover all such losses in addition to the operating expenses of the railroad. The writer was for a time engaged in the practice of law and never during the years when his time was so occupied did he find any difficulty in getting a fair settlement for a client for loss or damage in shipment by freight. Some railroads are much more prompt in pay- ment than others, but all with whom we had any dealings seemed entirely willing to make good any loss for which they were responsible. There was never any necessity to start suit on cases of this kind, for once proper proof of loss was presented settlement was secured without difficulty. The attitude of the railroads seemed fair enough and if it were possible for them to get into touch with the shippers and make clear the difficulties under which they work there 140 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK would be much less friction because of high freight rates. If the beekeepers desire to reduce freight rates, the first move to make is to educate the shipper to use more care in packing for ship- ment and thus reduce the amount of damage. If the careless man can be kept from shipping improperly crated honey there will be no diffi- culty in getting a reduction of freight rates on this commodity. Until then all honey shippers must contribute something to pay the losses. VaLue or ATTRACTIVE Packaces.— When aman goes into the large markets and sees the large variety of products that are offered, he at once learns that in order to appeal to the consumer any commodity to be used for food must be offered in the most attractive form possible. The writer saw a very good example of that in one of the well-known commission houses when a retailer came in to make a pur- chase with which to supply his trade. There GETTING THE HONEY TO MARKET 141 was a liberal supply of extracted honey in sixty-pound cans on the floor of the warehouse. He examined the various lots with a good deal of care, sampling each lot two or three times to make sure that the quality was good. The thing that impressed the writer, however, was not the care this man used in looking for the best flavor, but that he refused to sample honey in rusty cans. There was one shipment in cans that were rusty on top and which had a rather unattractive appearance generally. He sam- pled honey only in bright new cans that did not show a particle of rust. When the writer asked the commission man about the difference in price he was informed that they were com- pelled to sell the honey in rusty cans at from one to three cents per pound less. In spite of the difference in price this buyer would not even look at it. Probably the shipper of that lot of honey will blame the commission mer- chant and charge him with stealing a dollar or 142 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK two. per case on the shipment. It surely is a poor policy to save fifteen cents by using a sec- ond-hand can in which to ship the honey to market and lose from sixty cents to one dollar and eighty cents per can in making the sale. If the writer had not already been convinced of the value of new packages for honey this ob- servation would have convinced him. However, another example was in store, with comb honey this time. The honey was well graded and in new shipping cases, but seconds had been used which showed dark streaks of wood instead of the clean white of the first qual- ity shipping cases. This was on the floor of another store so that the two examples did not occur in the same establishment. Although the honey was of about the same quality, the more attractive package sold for fifty cents more per case than the other. Someone had bought inferior cases and had probably saved a few cents in the price, but it cost two cents GETTING THE HONEY TO MARKET 143 per pound in the selling price of the honey. The producer who must sell in a distant market should insist on the best possible quality in shipping cases, and before placing an order for supplies should know that the quality is O. K. In this establishment the writer was shown a model shipment of comb honey. The grading was remarkably uniform, the sections were per- fectly cleaned and the cases as clean and white as one could wish. This honey was selling at the highest price the market would afford. ATTRACTING THE ConsuMER.—After not- ing the great advantage that attractive pack- ages had in wholesale sales the writer was more interested than ever in the retail package. Re- tail stores were visited in the best part of Chi- cago where the rents paid for space would make most of us gasp. These stores sell to high-class trade and they are as neat and clean as a parlor. The first one visited offered “ Airline” honey. When asked if they handled no other kind they 144 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK replied that they did not. ‘The writer then enquired whether it was because the public in- sisted on “ Airline,” owing to its advertising, that they handled no other. The reply was that it was because of the clean packages in which it was offered. The salesman then showed the comb honey in clean tight cartons, and the ex- tracted jars wrapped in oil paper. There was no drip and every separate section or jar was as nice and clean as any other line which they had on their shelves. The public asked for “ Airline” honey because of its advertising, but most buyers would as readily accept any other if equally attractive. This dealer handled ‘“* Airline” honey because it was clean and saved him the annoyance of dirty packages. The reason was clear enough and we went out to find a store that handled something else. We found it but a few doors away and the honey was the only sticky package that we found in that store. The extracted honey packages were sealed in the ordinary way and nearly GETTING THE HONEY TO MARKET 145 every one showed a slight drip down one side. This little streak of honey would catch all the dust and thus it soon became anything but attractive. The label was printed in only one color so that altogether there was no compari- son in the appearance of the brands. Had the writer been in search of honey for his own table it is easy to guess which he would buy if he knew nothing of either producer. Further- more, he left the store with the feeling that he had learned some lessons which he could utilize to good advantage in marketing his own honey crop. One does not have to look far to see that money spent in putting up our product in the most attractive package will come back several times over when we sell the crop. PacxacE Must Fir tHe Trapve.—This brings us to another consideration; the kind of package in which to ship. This depends alto- gether on the trade to which the honey is to be sold. If to a buyer who will sell it again under his own trade name it should have no mark of 10 146 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK any kind excepting the net weight which the law requires. If, on the other hand, it is to be sold through some regular channel which rec- ognizes the producer’s trade-mark as an asset it should be labelled with the producer’s own mark. In one warehouse there was a big pile of shipping cases marked “J. E. Crane & Son, Middlebury, Vt.” One of the cases was opened and some of the sections removed. They were very nice and each was wrapped in a clean carton with the Crane name and the tsual printed matter. The dealer remarked that he had been handling Crane honey for nearly thirty years. In this case the honey was known to the buyer and the name was a guarantee of quality. But a few weeks before the writer had asked for honey in the Boston market and had been shown a jar of extracted honey with the Crane label. There is no question but that it is greatly to the advantage of the seller to market his best product under his own trade name when he can do so. However, it often GETTING THE HONEY TO MARKET 147 happens that when he goes into a strange mar- ket the only buyers who will present themselves will be those who buy to sell again under their own name and such would not buy honey with the individual trade-mark. It is well to corre- spond with the commission merchant with whom one expects to deal and learn something of the market requirements. Some of the largest sellers of honey in the Middle West have a trade which they supply with comb honey in their own cartons and with each case they send a placard for advertising purposes. This trade has come to look for the brand. Honey sold to this trade is placed in the cartons and repacked after it reaches their warehouse. Of course, not all of the honey that passes through their hands is handled in this manner. GENERAL REQUIREMENTS.—The writer interviewed a number of dealers both whole- sale and retail. When asked for some general advice to the honey seller they agreed on the following: 148 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK Sell through a firm that specializes in honey, for such a firm can get a better price. Be very careful about grading and packing and use corrugated paper lining for the shipping cases to catch drip. All agreed that in general comb honey sells better in bright wood ship- ping case with glass, than in corrugated paper cases, and usually arrives in better condition. The railroad claim agents gave the follow- ing advice in regard to shipping: Use only factory-made shipping cases and load the honey so that the combs will be parallel with the rails. This will place the shock of shipment on the edges instead of face of combs. Use cement-coated nails since they hold better, and use cushioned carriers. Stencil name and ad- dress on the package instead of using a ship- ping tag put on with tacks. Tags often get rubbed off and the shipment goes astray while the stenciled address cannot be lost. Also avoid as far as possible the shipment of comb honey in cold weather. CHAPTER XII ENEMIES AND DISEASES OF BEES THERE seems to be no agricultural pursuit free from the disorders common to life in gen- eral. While many localities are free from dis- ease, the beekeeper may have reason to expect its appearance sooner or later. While in trop- ical regions of many countries there are many enemies of the bees which may destroy whole apiaries, the temperate regions of the United States are free from serious danger on this score. The waxmoth is widely distributed and among amateurs generally feared. While it may destroy the combs of weak colonies, the waxmoth will not injure strong colonies, nor is there any animal known to the writer whose presence may endanger the success of his business. Mice frequently cause injury in winter 149 150 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK where the entrances of the hives are left wide open. All entrances should be contracted to not exceed three-eighths of an inch in height during the winter months to prevent the en- trance of mice. These little animals also often damage combs that are stored in outbuildings or other situations within their reach. AI un- used combs should be protected from both mice and moths. SKUNKS occasionally become troublesome by scratching at the entrance of a hive and de- vouring the bees as they rush out. Since they return to the same hive night after night, it is not usually difficult to catch the offender with a steel trap. Waxmorus are the source of great anxiety to most beginners. As soon as a colony is lost from any cause, the moths will enter the hive and deposit their eggs. The larve burrow through the combs and soon destroy them. If a colony becomes weakened the moths are quite ENEMIES AND DISEASES OF BEES 151 likely to destroy the combs, and thus hasten the end. However, the presence of moths may be regarded as a sign that all is not right, at least with the colony affected. If disease is present in the apiary, the colonies that become weak- ened by its ravages will fall easy victims to the moths. Queenless colonies or those whose con- dition is not normal from any reason, are the ones to be affected. Strong colonies easily de- fend themselves against the pest, so that the beekeeper who keeps close watch and knows that his bees are in good condition, seldom has any anxiety on account of waxmoths. Disrases or BEers.—There are several dif- ferent diseases known to affect the honeybee. The diseases of the adult bees are not well understood as yet. It is not definitely known how many there are, or what the cause may be, but it is quite probable that there are several distinct diseases of the adult bees. Paratysis is the name by which we most often hear of disease of the mature bees. It 152 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK usually appears in spring. The affected bees appear black and shiny and they may be seen in front of the hive apparently unable to fly. At times the abdomen is distended. Bees also sometimes suffer from dysentery, which is probably caused by poor stores or too long con- finement to the hive. Fouxsroop, of which there are two kinds, is the most serious disease with which the bee- keeper has to contend in America. However, both forms are now so well understood that the well-informed beekeeper no longer fears them as he once did. Both American and European foulbrood are diseases of the larve, and although they have well-defined differences, the novice would seldom be able to distinguish between them. If the brood is found to be dead without some ap- parent cause, it will be well for the beekeeper to cut out a piece of the comb containing some of the dead larve and send it to the Bureau of Entomology of the United States Department ENEMIES AND DISEASES OF BEES 153 of Agriculture, at Washington, D. C. Such samples will be examined by an expert and the beekeeper informed as to the nature of his trouble without expense, to him. It is impor- tant that the particular disease which may be present be early determined, as the kind of treatment necessary will depend upon which disease is present. In the case of American fculbrood it will be necessary to remove the bees to a clean hive and deprive them of all their brood and honey. The contamination seems to be spread in the honey with this dis- ease. If the disease is Kuropean foulbrood it will be necessary to check brood rearing for a time, and to requeen with a resistant strain, preferably Italian. _ SacBroop is a disease somewhat resembling those just described. It is milder in form and frequently disappears of itself during a honey flow. The author usually requeens colonies found to be affected with this disease and this is usually sufficient. CHAPTER XIII WINTER PREPARATION THE novice who plans to keep but a few bees will do well to buy some of the double- walled hives now on the market, and thus re- duce his winter preparation to the minimum. The ordinary single-walled hive provides in- sufficient protection in any of the Northern States and it is quite probable that the bees would be better for some extra protection in most of the Southern States. With the double- walled hive it is but a matter of a few minutes at the time of the last summer examination, to put the chaff tray in place over the frames, contract the entrance with the entrance blocks, replace the cover, and the job is done. No fur- ther attention needs to be paid to them, except to see that the entrances do not get clogged with ice during winter storms, until time to make the spring examination. In cold climates addi- tional protection should be given. 154 WINTER PREPARATION 155 PRELIMINARY PREPARATION FOR WINTER. —After the close of the honey flow the bees should be prepared for winter as early as pos- sible, to avoid disturbing the colony after the normal activities of summer have ceased. Care must be taken to insure plenty of honey to last the bees through the long months when no honey comes to the hive. In, the Northern States it is seldom safe to depend upon less than thirty pounds, and the author prefers forty to fifty pounds of sealed stores. This large amount will insure a sufficient supply for early brood rearing and will carry the colony safely through an unfavorable spring. The quality of the stores is important, especially in the North, where long periods of time elapse when the bees are unable to leave the hive to get a cleansing flight. The bees relieve themselves of the accumulated excrement only while on the wing, under normal conditions. If the stores be of poor quality, such as honeydew or im- 156 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK properly ripened honey, the long confinement is very hard on them and they often become affected with dysentery, soiling their combs and putting the hive in a filthy condition. Large clusters of young bees are also essen- tial to successful wintering by any method. If the hive is full of old bees that have gathered the fall harvest, they will die before spring and the colony will perish. If the honey flow con- tinues late, plenty of young bees will emerge late in the season to put the colony in prime condition for wintering. Old and _ failing queens will often fail to continue laying during the late summer and the colony will become greatly weakened, if it does not die before spring. Colonies known to have young queens will usually be in good condition unless there is a dearth of nectar during the fall months. At such times it is often necessary to feed lightly for a few days to stimulate brood rear- WINTER PREPARATION 157 ing, preparing the colony to go into winter quarters in proper condition. Given the above described conditions, young queens, plenty of good stores, and a large cluster of young bees, a colony will stand a surprising amount of cold weather and come through in fine shape. PROTECTION FoR WinTER.—As to whether outdoor or cellar wintering is best is not a mat- ter of agreement among beekeepers. Both methods are generally practiced and there are those who feel very sure that one is best while others are equally sure the other will bring bet- ter results. Bees can be safely wintered by either method if proper attention is given to see that conditions are right. As stated at the beginning of the chapter, the writer would rec- ommend double-walled hives, under ordinary conditions, to the person who has but a few col- onies to care for. They would hardly be suf- ficient protection for the extreme north, but 158 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK for most of the United States they will bring very good results if other conditions are right. Additional packing can be given where needed. CELLAR WINTERING has its advantages. The cellar should be dry and of a uniform tem- perature. A cellar that is warm during mild weather and cold when the thermometer drops, should never be used for the bees. The cellar should also be dark, as the bees will get restless in a cellar which is sufficiently warm, if the light enters during the day. For best results the temperature should not drop below forty degrees, and most of the time should stand about fifty degrees Fahrenheit. The bees should be placed in the cellar as soon as settled cold weather begins, and left there until danger of severe weather is past in spring. It is better to take them in a little early and to remove them a little late than to err in the other direction. Packine OursipE.—Various plans of pro- WINTER PREPARATION 159 viding extra protection to the hives on their summer stands have been used. The best plan is to use some kind of packing box outside the hive and fill the space between the hive and the box with leaves, planer shavings or some sim- liar material. When bees are packed in this manner provision must be made to leave the hive entrance open so that the bees can fly out on warm days and return again to the hive. If but a few hives are to be packed it is an easy matter to make such cases of goods boxes. If the beekeeper plans to operate extensively, special packing cases should be made that are of uniform size. The most widely used pack- ing case holds four colonies with two facing east and two to the west. F. W. Krouse of Ontario is an extensive beekeeper who has a separate packing case for each colony, and leaves them in place the year round. This gives ample protection against the changing weather of spring and fall, as well as winter. CHAPTER XIV REVIEW OF THE SEASON’S WORK Ir is difficult in a book of this kind which must be adapted to all parts of America to give a detailed chart for the operations necessary at different seasons of the year. The time of the principal honey flow varies so much in different localities that no time can be set for any opera- tion. The whole year’s work is planned with the one object in view of bringing the colony to the beginning of the main flow with as many bees as possible. The big colonies gather the big crops, and the beekeeper carries his work through the year so as to bring the colony to maximum strength at this time. Whether the beekeeper lives in Maine or California, there are certain essentials which must be considered. One of these is to supply the bees with sufficient stores at the close of 160 REVIEW OF THE SEASON’S WORK 161 the season to carry them through the winter months and to furnish a reserve for building up the following spring. If the bees must depend upon stores gathered from the field at this un- certain season much of the productive possi- bility of the colony is likely to be lost. It is only in the presence of a liberal reserve of food within the hive that the queen is likely to lay to her capacity in the cool and catchy weather of early spring. Especially is this true when little nectar is coming from the tields Accordingly, when the bees are removed from winter quarters, the first thing necessary is to make sure that an abundance of stores are still present to enable the bees to build up rap- idly. It takes a liberal supply of honey to rear the amount of brood necessary to make a strong colony, and one of the first essentials of good beekeeping lies in never allowing the colony to become short of stores. At the first examination, the general condi- rf 162 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK tion of the colony should be noted. Not only should the beekeeper make sure that the supply of stores is sufficient, but he should ascertain whether or not a queen is present and in good condition. It sometimes happens that some colonies will be very weak at this season of the year, and, unless given some help, will be lost. Such weaklings may be helped by giving them a frame of sealed brood from a strong colony. It is unwise to give very weak colonies unsealed brood, since they are unable to care for it prop- erly. If the cluster is too small, it is often bet- ter to unite them with some other colony than to try to build them up. Very weak colonies can sometimes be saved by removing the cover from the hive containing a strong colony and in its place covering the hive with ordinary wire screen. ‘The bottom of the hive containing the weak colony is then removed and the hive placed directly on top of the strong one. A hole to enable the bees to fly from the upper REVIEW OF THE SEASON’S WORK _ 163 body should be made on the end opposite the entrance to the strong colony. The bees above will get the advantage of the heat ascending from the strong cluster below, while there is no chance for the bees to pass through the wire cloth and thus unite the two clusters. After the bees in the upper hive have recovered their strength sufficiently to enable them to care for their brood properly, they may be set off again on their regular stand. Rossine.—In early spring when there is little to be had from the fields and some colonies are still weak, there is always danger of rob- bing. The bees from the strong colonies will fly around the openings of other hives until they find a suitable opportunity, and then come in such numbers as to overpower the rightful owners and carry off their honey. The best prevention is to contract the entrance to a very small space so that but few bees can pass at one time. All other cracks should be tightly 164 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK closed. This will make it possible for the guards to protect from prying bees from other hives. If robbing once gets started it is hkely to continue until the honey is all removed from the hive of the victims. Such a condition often leads to a general furore in the apiary, when one hive after another is robbed until many colonies are ruined. The beekeeper should al- ways be on guard against robbing, as preven- tion is far better than cure. If robbing has started it is easy to determine the colony which is doing the mischief by drop- ping flour on the bees as they leave the hives with their stolen plunder. At the beginning there is likely to be only one or two hives mak- ing mischief. When the trouble makers are located, to change places of the robbed colony with the one which is doing the robbing will often stop the trouble. Both entrances should be made smaller until only one bee is able to pass at a time. REVIEW OF THE SEASON’S WORK 165 The beekeeper should never leave bits of honey in the open where the bees can find ac- cess to it, as this often starts robbing. When the bees find honey exposed at a time when no nectar is coming from the fields, it starts them seeking out every crevice in the vicinity in. search of a larger supply, and much trouble is likely to result. PREPARING FOR THE Crop.—Aside from making sure that the bees are in good condition, have a suitable supply of honey and proper protection; there is not much to be done in early spring. Supplies should always be ready in advance so that when the crop season arrives there will be no delay. Care should be used to see that room is added as fast as needed. When the brood chamber becomes crowded it is time to give super room. If, when the cover is removed, the hive seems to be overflowing with bees and the combs are being whitened at the tops of the 166 BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK frames, it is safe to assume that more room is necessary. When the bees are found to be working in the supers, close watch should be kept to make sure that additional room is added as fast as the bees are ready to occupy it. Many beekeepers fail to get a satisfactory crop simply because they fail to provide the bees a place to put it in time. During a good honey flow they will often fill a super in a very few days and, under favorable conditions, will often fill two to five supers before the first one is ready to be removed from the hive. The honey should be left with the bees until it is well capped over. If removed from the hives before it is properly ripened, the quality is likely to be poor. Where the beekeeper waits till one super is filled and removed before giving another, he is likely to lose the larger part of his crop in a good season. A strong colony will have more bees than can work in such a small space, and it requires some skill to determine how much room is necessary to secure the maximum yield, REVIEW OF THE SEASON’S WORK 167 without scattering the honey too much. This is especially true of comb-honey production. REMOVING THE Honry.—When the supers are filled it is an easy matter to place those which are to be removed on top and place a bee’s escape board underneath, between the filled super and the ones below. Ina few hours the bees will have gone below and not being able to return the super can be removed, free from annoyance. CLosInc THE SEAson.—When the honey flow is over, the surplus honey should be re- moved from the bees as soon as possible. The preparations for winter should be made early in the fall, so as not to disturb the bees any later than necessary after active operations are over. At this season it is important to re- place any old and failing queens with vigorous young ones, to replace the queen in colonies where the stock is undesirable for any reason, and to make sure that an abundant supply of honey is present to carry the bees through till 168 BEGINNER’S BEE BOOK the following season opens. Many beekeepers make a practice of leaving a super of extract- ing combs on the hive for a reserve supply, in addition to the honey in the brood nest. Where the bees are wintered outside, the necessary packing should be done early. It is better to pack late than not to pack at all, but there is a decided advantage in favor of finish- ing the winter preparations as soon as con- venient after the nights begin to be frosty. All of the beekeeper’s activities center in the queens which head his colonies. Without good queens no matter how careful the man- agement there can be no satisfactory degree of success. Given vigorous young queens, the other essentials are not many. Mr. George Demuth of the U. S. Department of Agricul- ture sums up as follows: stores, room and pro- tection. Given plenty of stores, an abundance of room for colony activities at the proper time, and suitable protection, success is assured. GLOSSARY Absconding. A term com- monly used where swarms are lost through their de- parture for parts unknown. Adair Hive. A hive formerly popular in some localities but now alnrost gone out of use. The frames were 13% inches long and 11% inches deep. Afterswarm. A small swarm issuing after the first or prime swarm. Where bees are not given proper atten- tion it is not uncommon for them to send out several afterswarms, one after an- other until the parent col- ony becomes almost worth- less. F American Hive. A hive once common but now seldom seen. The frames were 12 inches square. Apiary.