12 Cornell Muiversity Library BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME FROM THE SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND THE GIFT OF Henry W. Sage 1891 ANOS 4. 4 Ce 5474 RETURN TO ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY ITHACA, N. Y. Cornell University Library SB 435.C77 ish gardens. STAT 3 1924 003 680 240 sam Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003680240 TREES AND SHRUBS FOR ENGLISH GARDENS THE CLUSTER PINE (Pinus Pinaster) THE “COUNTRY LIFE” LIBRARY. ‘TREES @ SHRUBS FOR ENGLISH GARDENS. ae a2 ES TY COOK. PUBLISHED BY “COUNTRY LIFE” GEORGE NEWNES, Lr. 20, TAVISTOCK STREET, 7-12, SOUTHAMPTON STREET, COVENT GARDEN, W.C. COVENT GARDEN, W.C, 1902. PREFACE IT cannot be urged against this work that it travels along a path already well worn, for the subject of trees and shrubs for English gardens, though almost inexhaustible, has never been so fully treated and illustrated as it deserves. The book may have many defects, but its pages will show that an honest effort has been made to offer helpful and instructive information to the many who wish to know more of the beauty of trees and shrubs. In writing this book, the labour of my spare hours. for many months, I have been greatly helped by Mr. Bean, the assistant-curator of the Royal Gardens, Kew, whose deep knowledge of the subject has been willingly imparted ; and by Miss Jekyll, to whom I am indebted for many valuable suggestions and notes. Among others to whom grateful thanks are tendered are Mrs. Davidson, Mr. J. Clark, Mr. Dallimore, and Mr. S. W. Fitzherbert. Some of the chapters have already appeared in the Garden, with the object of making known as widely as possible the importance of the most beauti- ful trees and shrubs for English woodland and pleasure-grounds. The illustrations will show how a shrub, so often : b vi PREFACE stunted and mutilated by unwise pruning, becomes beautiful when allowed to develop naturally. The illustrations have their own teaching value, and in this matter also I desire to thank many willing helpers, especially Miss Jekyll, Miss Willmott, and Mr. Crump, of the Madresfield Court Gardens. It is the wish and hope of the author, whose notes, taken during many years, are embodied, that the book may do something to make English gardens more beautiful and interesting, and that it may win many to see the better ways of planting; also that it may be the means of bringing forward the many trees and shrubs of rare charm that are generally unknown or unheeded. The word ‘ English,” of course, stands for the British Isles. BES, November 1902. CONTENTS WANT OF VARIETY A BLEMISH ORNAMENTAL PLANTING IN WOODLAND GROUPING OF TREES AND SHRUBS HEATHY PATHS IN OUTER GARDEN SPACES TREES AND SHRUBS IN POOR SOILS PRUNING FLOWERING TREES AND SHRUBS PROPAGATION OF HARDY TREES AND SHRUBS A WINTER GARDEN OF TREES AND SHRUBS AUTUMN COLOURS TREES AND SHRUBS WITH FINE FRUITS WEEPING TREES AND THEIR USES THE USE OF VARIEGATED TREES AND SHRUBS TREES AND SHRUBS FOR SEA-COAST TREES AND SHRUBS FOR WIND-SWEPT GARDENS CONIFERS (INCLUDING PINES) IN ORNAMENTAL PLANTING CARE OF OLD TREES . TREES AND SHRUBS FOR WATERSIDE TREES AND SHRUBS FOR ROCK GARDEN REMOVAL OF LARGE TREES AND SHRUBS vii PAGE Vill CONTENTS YOUNG TREES AND SUNSTROKE . eee SHADE TREES FOR STREETS .. Lee TSE TREES AND SHRUBS IN SCOTLAND... - +154 TENDER SHRUBS AND TREES IN THE SOUTH-WEST 175 TENDER WALL PLANTS IN THE SOUTH-WEST . .__ 196 HARDY BAMBOOS. . Ce 203 THE HEATHS f cs as oF 8 . 2Ir NATIVE AND OTHER HARDY EVERGREENS . 2265 SHRUBS FOR SMALL AND TOWN GARDENS 4 236 SHRUB AND FLOWER BORDERS . . .. .. «242 SHRUBS UNDER TREES . . . . «248 HARDY SHRUBS IN THE GREENHOUSE... 248 SHRUB GROUPS FOR WINTER AND SUMMER EFFECT 268 THE USE OF HARDY CLIMBING SHRUBS _. . 2897 FLOWERING AND OTHER HEDGES : ‘ - 308 PLEACHED OR GREEN ALLEYS ‘ : : . 318 THE GARDEN ORCHARD . ‘ : 322 THE WORTHY USE OF ROSES . : ‘ 326 PLANTING AND STAKING TREES é : - 337 HARDY TREES AND SHRUBS, TABLES OF . 341 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS CLUSTER PINE (Pinus Pinaster) . F b Frontispiece GUELDER ROSE. @ ; ‘ . To face page 2 MAGNOLIA STELLATA : : : ; i oa 3 “ESCULUS PARVIFLORA (late July): ‘ By 4 SLOE, DOUBLE-FLOWERED (Prunus spinosa, fl. pl.) : oy 5 IN THE WOODLAND AT KEW 5 ‘ : ae 6 WAYFARING TREE (Viburnum Lantana) ‘ : as, ete 7 GROUPING OF SHRUB AND DAFFODIL. : ¥ 3% a Jo NATURAL GROUPING OF SHRUB IN ROUGH GROUND ee eee SHRUB AND IRIS GROUPS BY WOODLAND . é " ahi ca WEA AZALEA GARDEN AT KEW . F z . ‘ : ie cay ES CEANOTHUS AzUREUS aT Kew. ‘ ‘: i sy aa. 20 CEANOTHUS AZUREUS, MARIE SIMON . i i sh. ay SE PEARL BusH (Exochorda grandiflora) . 4 . sa pe. 2H HYDRANGEA PANICULATA GRANDIFLORA (Unpruned) “ae 28: HYDRANGEA PANICULATA GRANDIFLORA . ‘i é sg: “sup (26 TuLip TREE AT RANELAGH (Winter) . : F ee ae Lime (Winter Beauty) é F é ‘ ee ee WitTcH HAZEL (Hamamelis japonica, var. siccariniana) aga 309 ULMUS ALATA 7 ‘ é : ; F is, agen OL WILLow, erate BY ele c ‘i ys. 38 ASH, WEEPING 2 ‘ ‘ ‘ : ig age. BT WEEPING ASPEN (Populus pay var. aaa - : Te ee WEEPING ELM z é : : ‘i < ‘ ‘ se 6p 85 ELAAGNUS PUNGENS . : j , : , ee ag 10S Cornus Mas (var. vartegata) : . 3 ; » > ~—89 TAURIAN TAMARISK (Tamarix tetrandra) IN : anans ic a 04 ASHES BY WATER EDGE ‘ ‘ ‘ ; ‘ ‘ see abe OS LOMBARDY POPLAR ‘ : so : : . » 9 99 1x x LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS CorsIcaN PINE WALK . 3 : : . To face page 100 ARAUCARIA IMBRICATA (Chili Pine) eee . : si Gg? AOL MAIDENHAIR TREE AT FROGMORE : : : ‘ sy 99, «LOR MAIDENHAIR TREE AT KEW e : . j i! +, 103 Corsican PINE (var. tenuifolia) . a ‘ ; 3 yy 93, «106 AVENUE OF ABIES (xobzlis glauca) ff ° : : + 93-«T08 CEDRUS ATLANTICA GLAUCA AVENUE . , ; 3,9 «LOO LIBOCEDRUS DECURRENS (Frogmore) . 7 ‘ i, seg teed AVENUE OF YEW (Murthly) . , f i ‘ oe oe Ia ALDERS NEAR WATER . ‘i i ‘ . P ‘i a3 22 WHITE WILLOW (Salix alba) BY WATERSIDE . ‘ so. og. 823 NATURAL TREE GROWTH BY WATER (Burnham Beeches) . - : p : ‘ ; 4 oy 4g 024. WILLOWS BY WATERSIDE . i é i : i a ae 125 CisrusEs AND Rosgs IN RocK GARDEN. ‘ ep. 4g 232 DwarF SHRUBS IN RocK GARDEN. 5 : oe a CESS ONONIS FRUTICOSA (Shrubby Rest-Harrow) ar Eeeren ae ay 138 TREE IN COURSE OF REMOVAL . i : ‘ A +, 139 PLANE TREE (Platanus orientalis) . : - : 4 % ~@ 52 CyTISUS PRACOX . : ‘ ‘ : ; os osy «56 A VARIETY OF MAHALEB CHERRY (Prunus Mahaleb, var. chrysocarpa) . ‘ ; . * : : yy )-~«57 GUELDER ROSE OR SNOWBALL TREE . ; : gos. deg G2: Wycu ELMs By HEDGEROW : é we Jap E73 EDWARDSIA GRANDIFLORA . . . ‘ » ~—ay_-~—«T86 FABIANA IMBRICATA , . . Gy 187 Pinus MONTEZUM& ‘ ‘ ‘ “4 » 192 PUERARIA THUNBERGIANA . . F +> ss 200 Yuccas, PAMPAS GRASS, AND Haninoge (Kew) , 1 ty 204 BAMBOO GARDEN AT Kew .. : : aio ge 2208 ERICA CARNEA z : e ‘ i ‘ sie

> 99 219 WHITE SCOTCH HEATHER (Erica cinerea alba) 1-93, 220 WHITE MEDITERRANEAN HEATH (Zrica mediterranea alba) is pe DDT WEEPING HOLLy . . ; 3 2 F Fa, (aie 33 ARBUTUS MENZIESII : i . ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ - »» 234 Hiiscus syriacus (Althea frutex, var. ceruleus) 9 238 Mock ORANGE (Phzladelphus coronarius) . ”? » 239 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xi TALL EVERGREEN SHRUBS IN FLOWER BORDER . To face page 242 SPIR4ZA CANESCENS F ‘ . é : ‘: ‘ +.) 280 CLEMATIS MONTANA OVER RouGH WALL . . sg 2280 CLEMATIS MONTANA OVER ARCHWAY . ‘ ‘ ss ay, 287 CAMELLIA LEAF AND FRUuIT (Outdoors) . . : 199-300 DutcH HONEYSUCKLE ON WALL. 2 ‘i : ; Se sgn SRO POLYGONUM BALDSCHUANICUM OVER FIR . ‘ : ‘5 aie. 3302 PRUNUS TRILOBA ON SUNNY WALL . : i. 308 OLD WISTARIA AT HaMPTON Court . 5 33 a6 WISTARIA RACEMES). “ . : ‘ 4 307 Great BEECH HEDGE . é ‘ . we «qe SEA HEDGE OF MAIDENS’ BLUSH ROSE . > 315 Nut WALK . . 7 : js s ‘ ‘ : 3 oo 318 OLp APPLE WALK ‘ ‘ ‘ r ae oa BIO OLD MULBERRY TREE, SYON ‘ ; ‘ ‘ s ay 922 OLD MEDLAR TREE ; ; 4 wen gy 328 ROSA MULTIFLORA ‘ : i ; je “ap 6332 HyBrip RosE UNA : - : » a9 333 STAKING TREES . ‘ & * a“ : shy. hgs S330 HorsE CHESTNUT . ‘ : , , : 3 93 342 CATALPA OR INDIAN BEAN TREE (C. bignonioides) . yy 350 CIsTUS VILLOSUS . : : : 2 ‘i é é on 354 CYTISUS CAPITATUS % " . x ‘ ae 3h B57 MOONLIGHT BROOM (Cpidsus erate! var. pallidus) . on 358 A Hyprip Broom (Cytésus kewensis) . ‘ ‘ we dar 359 GARLAND FLOWER (Daphne Cneorum). , . > 99 366 ERINACEA PUNGENS ‘ a : : ‘ < ws 19 307. May-FLowER (Zfigea pen : : : : : 4 wp 968 ESCALLONIA PHILLIPPIANA . ; j ‘ , soy 309 SPANISH FURZE (Genista (Ulex) Hpawtcds , ; gs, Ogg 72 SPANISH FURZE ON ROUGH SLOPE . Fi 2 ‘ a ee 373 GENISTA MONOSPERMA . : . 4 P z so dpe STA SHOOT OF SNOWDROP TREE (Halesia tetraptera) di si. ae 370 HYDRANGEAS . ‘ ‘ . 5, 2 : : F i. a BIT HYDRANGEA PETIOLARIS 2 ‘ ; : : : se 30 378 KALMIA LATIFOLIA ri f . : - é . sa ayn 2379) Yuan (Magnolia conspiuca) . : : F ; a yor: 386 Yuan aS A WALL SHRUB . , é ‘ 2 5 ss ae 387 Xil LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS MAGNOLIA CONSPICUA, var. soudangeana (lateSpring) To face page 388 OLEARIA MACRODONTA . : ‘ : . . : » 9 389 PRuNuS PERSICA ; ‘i 7 » 99 394 PRUNUS JAPONICA . : é : ‘ 3 . we 9 B98 PRUNUS SERRULATA F ‘ . ‘ a é 2 9, 400 PRUNUS PADUS. : . A - . : : 4 GOR PYRUS SINAICA. : : z 3 4 ; : on 404 PYRUS SPECTABILIS ‘ F a A ‘ 3 9p ~-400 SIBERIAN CRaB (Pyrus Malus baccata) . . r x ma oe BCT PYRUS LOBATA ‘ * é 5 é , 0 op «ET RHODODENDRON ARBOREUM (Hybrid) . P ‘“ . ge age 42 RHODODENDRON HybriD (Donegal) . i é ‘ in ae ATS RHODODENDRON PRA&COX. : 3 ‘ oon: «46 RHODODENDRON SAPHO IN IRISH GARDEN (Donegal oy ag ALT CALIFORNIAN Poppy (Rommneya Coulter?) . z ise gp 433} SPIR4ZA CANESCENS : ; ‘ ; sa 952-430 SPIR@A LINDLEYANA . ‘ : : , ey eid Litacs . . : . ; . ; 0 438 STANDARD LILac . . : . 2 i> 93 439 VIBURNUM MACROCEPHALUM : $5) Ay YUCCA GLORIOSA IN A SURREY GARDEN . ‘ F 93 «446 YUCCA FILAMENTOSA . ‘ ‘ ga 9: “AAT. PTEROCARYA CAUCASICA : ‘ é oon 458 Cork Oak (Quercus Suber) . ‘ or 459 EVERGREEN OAKS z >> 93 460 DovasTon YEW ON STEEP BAe : { 99> 404 Res TREES AND SHRUBS WANT OF VARIETY A BLEMISH THERE is a sad want of variety amongst evergreen and deciduous shrubs in the average English garden. Faith is placed in a few shrubs whose only desire is to rob the soil of its goodness and make a monotonous ugly green bank, neither pleasant to look at nor of any protective value. As one who knows shrubs well and the way to group them says, “Even the landscape gardeners, the men who have the making of gardens—with, of course, notable exceptions—do not seem to know the rich storehouse to draw from.” Very true is this. We see evidence of it every day, and the mixed shrubbery fondly clung to as a necessary feature of the garden, with distressing results. There are other shrubs than Privet in this fair world of ours, and as for providing shelter, the wind whistles through its bare stems and creates a draught good for neither man, beast, nor plant. Mr. Bean denounces the Cherry Laurel in no measured terms. “Few other plants can stand against its greedy, searching roots, and its vigorous branches and big leaves kill other leaf-growth near them. A 2 TREES AND SHRUBS Grown in the proper way, that is, as an isolated shrub, with abundance of space to develop its graceful branches and brilliant green leaves, the Cherry Laurel is a beautiful evergreen ; it is quite happy in shady, half-wooded places. But grown, as it is so often, jammed up and smothering other things, or held in bounds by a merciless and beauty- destroying knife, its presence has not been to the advantage of English gardening.” When the planting season comes round, think of some of the good shrubs not yet in the garden, and forget pontic Rhododendron, Laurel, Aucuba, and Privet. By this is not meant rare shrubs, such as may only be had from the few nurseries of the very highest rank or from those that make rare shrubs a speciality, but good things that may be grown in any garden and that appear in all good shrub catalogues. Perhaps no beautiful and now well-known shrub is more neglected than beautiful Exochorda grandiflora (the Pearl Bush). Its near relatives, the Spirzas, are in every shrubbery, but one may go through twenty and not see Exochorda. Even of the Spirzas one does not half often see enough of S. Thunbergi, a perfect milky way of little starry bloom in April and a most shapely little bush, or the double-flowered S. prunifolia, with its long wreaths of flower-like double thorn or minute white roses and its autumn bravery of scarlet foliage. The hardy Magnolias are not given the opportunity they deserve of making our gardens lovely in earliest summer. Who that has seen Magnolia stellata in its April dress of profuse ‘ASOY YUACTAND ASANIAD ‘PIVITHLIS FITONOFIM AO ONICNOUD PV WANT OF VARIETY A BLEMISH 3 white bloom and its summer and autumn dignity of handsome though not large foliage, would endure to be without it ? or who would not desire to have the fragrant chalices of M. soulangeana, with their outside staining of purple, and M. conspicua, of purest white in the early months of March and April? And why does not every garden hold one, at least, of the sweet Chimonanthus, offering, aS it does in February, an abundance of its little blooms of a fragrance so rich and powerful that it can be scarcely matched through- out the year. Cassinea fulvida, still known in nurseries by its older name of Diplopappus, in winter wears its fullest dress of tiny gold-backed leafage in long graceful sprays, that are borne in such profusion that they only beg to be cut to accompany the rare flowers of winter that we bring indoors to sweeten and enliven our rooms. Of small -flowering trees none is lovelier than the snowy Mespilus (Amelanchier), and for a tree of somewhat larger size the good garden form of the native Bird Cherry is beautiful in the early year. The North American Halesia (the Snowdrop Tree) should be in every garden, either as a bush or tree, every branch hung in May with its full array of pendent bloom of the size and general shape of Snowdrops, only of a warm and almost creamy instead of a cold snow-white colour. Few spring-flowering shrubs are more free and graceful than Forsythia suspensa, and if it can be planted on a slight eminence and encouraged to 4 TREES AND SHRUBS throw down its many-feet-long graceful sprays it then exhibits its best garden use. The Japanese Viburnum plicatum is another shrub well known but unfairly neglected, flowering with the earliest Irises. Grouped with the grand Iris pallida dalmatica it is a thing never to be forgotten. Zesculus or Pavia macrostachya, blooming in July when flowering shrubs are rare, is easily grown and strikingly handsome, and yet how rarely seen! Caly- canthus floridus, with its spice-scented blooms of low- toned crimson, also a late summer flower, is a fine thing in a cool, well-sheltered corner, where the sun cannot burn the flowers. The Rose Acacia (Robinia hispida), trained on a wall or house, is as beautiful as any Wistaria, and the quality of the low-toned rosy bloom of a much rarer colour. It is quite hardy, but so brittle that it needs close and careful wall training or other support. To name a few others in the same kind of category, but rather less hardy, the Sweet Bay is the noblest of evergreen bushes or small trees; the Tamarisk, with its grey plumes of foliage and autumn flower-plumes of tenderest pink, is a delightful plant in our southern counties, doing especially well near the sea. Clethra alnifolia, against a wall or in the open, is a mass of flower in late summer, and the best of the Albiscus syriacus, or Althea frutex, the shrubbery representatives of Mallows and Hollyhocks, are autumn flowers of the best class. A bushy plant of half-woody character that may well be classed among shrubs, and that was beloved of our grandmothers, is Leycesteria formosa, a (Qu M)) FYOTTIAUFd SATAOSE DOUBLE-FLOWERED SLOE OR BLACKTHORN. WANT OF VARIETY A BLEMISH 5 delightful thing in the later autumn. The large- fruited Euonymus (Spindle Tree) is another good thing too little grown. For a peaty garden there are many delightful plants in the neglected though easy-to-be-had list. One of these is the beautiful and highly fragrant Azalea occidentalis, all the better that the flowers and leaves come together and that it is later than the Ghent Azaleas. Then there are the two sweet- scented North American Bog Myrtles, Myrica cerifera and Comptonia asplenifolia, the charming little Ledum buxifolium, of neatest bushy form, and the larger L. palustre, whose bruised leaves are of delightful aromatic fragrance ; Vaccinium pennsylvanicum, pretty in leaf and flower and blazing scarlet in autumn, and Gaultheria Shallon, a most important sub-shrub, revel- ling in moist peat or any cool sandy soil. These examples by no means exhaust the list of desirable shrubs that may be found for the slightest seeking. This brief recital of their names and qualities is only meant as a reminder that all these good things are close at hand, while many more are only waiting to be asked for. ORNAMENTAL PLANTING IN WOODLAND WHERE woodland adjoins garden ground, and the one passes into the other by an almost imperceptible gradation, a desire is often felt to let the garden influence penetrate some way into the wood by the planting within the wood of some shrubs or trees of distinctly ornamental character. Such a desire very naturally arises—it is wild gardening with the things of larger growth; but, like all forms of wild gardening (which of all branches of gardening is the most difficult to do rightly, and needs the greatest amount of knowledge), the wishes of the planter must be tempered with extreme pre- caution and restraint. It does not do to plant in the wild garden things of well-known garden charac- ter. This is merely to spoil the wood, which, in many cases, is already so good that any addition would be a tasteless intrusion of something irrelevant and unsuitable. Still, there are certain wooded places where a judicious planting would be a gain, and there are a certain number of trees and shrubs which those who have a fair knowledge of their ways, and a true sympathy with the nature of woodland, recognise as suitable for this kind of planting. They will be 6 AYN LF GNF TGOOM YZHL NI ‘AFM ASSFYO AT CAXHS UNF JAUL ONIAMOHS ); d NATIVE SHRUB ON CHALK. WAYFARING TREE (Viburnum Lai ORNAMENTAL PLANTING 7 found in these classes: Native growths that are absent or unusual in the district, such as the Spindle Tree “(Euonymus), White Beam, Service Tree, White and Black Thorn, Wild Cherry, Bird Cherry, Wild Guelder Rose (Viburnum Opulus), and V. Lantana, Honeysuckle, Wild Roses, Juniper, and Daphne Laureola. Then, among cultivated trees and shrubs, those that are nearly related to our wild kinds, including some that are found in foreign woodlands that have about the same latitude and climate as our own. Among these will be Quinces and Medlars, many kinds of ornamental Cratzgus, Scarlet Oaks, various Elders and Crabs, and the grand Sorbus americana, so like our native Mountain Ash, but on a much larger scale. A very careful planting with trees and shrubs of some of these and, perhaps, other allied kinds, may give additional beauty and interest to woodland. Differences of soil will, of course, be carefully considered, for ‘if a piece of woodland were on chalky soil, a totally different selection should be made from one that would be right for a soil that was poor and sandy. In moist, sandy, or, still better, peaty ground, especially where there is a growth of Birches and Scotch Firs, and not many other kinds of trees, a plantation of Rhododendrons may have a fine effect. But in this case it is better to use the common R. ponticum only, as a mixture of differently coloured kinds is sure to give a misplaced-garden look, or an impression as if a bit of garden ground had missed its way and got lost in the wood. GROUPING OF TREES AND SHRUBS IF this subject were considered with only a reason- able amount of thought, and the practice of it con- trolled by good taste, there is nothing that would do more for the beauty of our gardens or grounds. Nothing can so effectually destroy good effect as the usual senseless mixture of deciduous and evergreen shrubs that, alas! is so commonly seen in gardens— a mixture of one each of a quantity of perhaps excellent things planted about three feet apart. There would be nothing to be said against this if it were the deliberate intention of any individual, for, as a garden is for the owner’s happiness, it is indisputably his right to take his pleasure in it as he will, and if he says, ‘I have only space for a hundred plants, and I wish them to be all different,” that is for him to decide. But when the mixture is made from pure ignorance or helplessness it is then that advice may be of use, and that the assurance may be given that there are better ways that are just as easy at the beginning, and that with every year will be growing on towards some definite scheme of beauty, instead of merely growing up into a foolish tangle of horti- cultural imbecility. If the intending planter has no knowledge it is well worth his while to take advice at the beginning, 8 GROUPING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 9 not to plant at random and to feel, a few years later, first doubt, and then regret, and then, as knowledge grows, to have to face the fact that it is all wrong and that much precious time has been lost. How to group is a large question, depending on all the conditions of the place under consideration. Whether a group is to be of tall or short growing shrubs or trees, whether it is to be of three or three hundred, and so on. The knowledge that can answer is the knowledge of gardening of the better kind. The whole thing should be done carefully on paper beforehand, or there will again be repented the error of huddled single plants. The groups will have to be well shaped and well sized and well related to each other and all that is near, or they may be merely a series of senseless blocks, not intelligently formed groups at all. Then, in proper relation to the groups, single plants can be used with the best possible effect, as, for instance, a snowy Mespilus or a Cherry or a Pyrus Malus floribunda against a dark mass of Yew or Ilex; or a Forsythia suspensa casting out its long flowering branches from among bushes of Berberis. Then the fewer individuals will have their full value, while the larger masses will have dignity even when in leaf only, and their own special beauty at the time when they are in flower or fruit. For some flower- ing and fruiting bushes are best grouped, while a few are best seen standing alone, and it is only knowledge of good gardening that can guide the designer in his decisions on these points. Still it does not follow 10 TREES AND SHRUBS that a shrub or flowering tree cannot be used both for groups and single use, for such an one as the Forsythia just mentioned is also of charming effect in its own groups, with the red-tinted Berberis or the quiet-coloured Savins, or whatever be the lower grow- ing bushy mass that is chosen to accompany it. Every one can see the great gain of such arrange- ments when they are made, but to learn to make them, and even to perceive what are the plants to group together, and why, that is the outcome of the education of the garden artist. Much has been done at Kew in the judicious grouping of plants, and here is a living place of in- struction open to all, where the best of plants may be seen and, to a considerable degree, the best ways of using them in gardens. The one-thing-at-a-time planting is always a safe guide, but as the planter gains a firmer grasp of his subject, so he may exercise more freedom in its application. Nearly every garden, shrubbery, and ornamental tree plantation is spoilt or greatly marred by too great a mixture of incongruous growths. Nothing wants more careful consideration. On the ground in the open air, and sitting at home quietly thinking, the question should be carefully thought out. The very worst thing to do is to take a nursery catalogue and make out from it a list of supposed wants. The right thing is to make a plan of the ground, to scale, if possible, though a rougher one may serve, and mark it all down in good time before- hand, not to wait until the last moment and then GROUPING OF SHRUB AND DAFFODIL. NATURAL GROUPING OF SHRUB IN ROUGH GROUND GROUPING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 11 mark it ; and not to send the list to the nursery till the ground is well forward for planting, so that the moment the plants come they may go to their places, All this planning and thinking should be done in the summer, so that the list may go to the nursery in September, which will enable the nurseryman to supply the trees in the earliest and best of the plant- ing season. How good it would be to plant a whole hillside on chalky soil with grand groupings of Yew or Box, or with these intergrouped, and how easy afterwards to run among these groupings of lesser shrubs; or to plant light land with Scotch Fir and Holly, Thorn and Juniper (just these few things grouped and intergrouped) ; or wastes of sandhills near the sea within our milder shores with Sea Buckthorn and Tamarisk, and Monterey Cypress (Cupressus macro- carpa), and long drifts of the handsome Blue Lyme Grass. A mile of sandy littoral might be transformed with these few things, and no others than its own wild growths, into a region of delight, where noble tree form of rapid growth, tender colour of plume-like branch and bloom and brilliant berry, and waving blue grassy ribbons, equalling in value any of the lesser Bamboos, would show a lesson of simple planting such as is most to be desired but is rarely to be seen. The other and commoner way is nothing but a muddle from beginning to end. A van-load of 12 TREES AND SHRUBS shrubs arrives from the nursery—one of each or perhaps not more than six of any kind. No plan is prepared, and the trees and shrubs are planted in the usual weary mixture, without thought or design. Generally there are three times too many for the space. It is a cruel waste and misuse of good things. HEATHY PATHS IN OUTER GARDEN SPACES THE subject of heathy paths comes within the scope of this book. We are not thinking of grass or gravel paths, but those in pleasure-grounds that are beyond the province of the trimly-kept garden, and yet have to be somewhat tamed from the mere narrow track such as serves for the gamekeeper on his rounds. Paths of this kind admit of varied treatment. The nature of the place and the requirements of those who use the paths will determine their general nature, and settle whether they are to be of turf or of some- thing that must be dry in all weathers. But grass and gravel are not the only alternatives. One kind of path not often seen, but always pleasant, and at one time of year distinctly beautiful, can be made of the Common Heather (Calluna vulgaris). We know of such a path, 12 feet wide and some hundreds of feet long, carpeted with this native Heath, mown once a year, and feeling like a thick pile carpet to the feet ; grey-green in summer, bronze-coloured in late autumn, and in the second and third weeks of August thickly set with short sprays of the low-toned pink of the Heather bloom. It is not so dry as a gravel path, but a good deal drier than grass, and 13 14 TREES AND SHRUBS has a pleasant feeling of elasticity that is absent in common turf. Many are the pleasure-grounds in the south of England and Scotland where the soil is sandy and, perhaps, peaty. Any such can have these pleasant heathy paths. We have even seen them on a poor sandy clay, scarcely good enough to call loam, in Sussex ; for Calluna, unlike the other Heaths, will grow willingly in clay. In the case quoted the plant was wild in the place. In a Fir wood, the bare earth carpeted with needles always makes a suitable path, and one that is always dry ; the only thing to correct is to fill up any places where the bare roots rise above the path level. For in these informal paths, where we want to look about and at the trees, there should be no danger of being tripped up. The path, of whatever nature, should be wide enough for two persons—5 feet to 6 feet is ample ; but it should have quite a different character to the garden path, in that its edges are not defined or straightened. One may often see in the outskirts of an old garden a dense wood that once was only a growth of shrubbery size. The walk was originally bordered by a Box edging, and there may have been a strip of flowers between it and the shrubs. Here and there one may still see a yard or two of straggling Box nearly 2 feet high. Of course, this edging should have been removed as soon as the place became a wood, for after a certain time its original use as a formal edging to a trim plantation ceased to exist. SHRUB AND IRIS GROUPS BY WOODLAND ‘(samung &4v2) ALAM LY NAGUPD VATVZE HEATHY PATHS 15 Nothing is pleasanter in woodland than broad, grassy ways, well enough levelled to insure safety to an unheeding walker. In early spring, before the grass has grown any height, here is the place where Daffodils can best be seen and enjoyed, some in the clear grass and some running back in wide drifts into any side opening of the wood. If the grass is cut in June, when the Daffodil foliage is ripe, and again early in September, these two mowings will suffice for the year. In many woody places where shade is fairly thick, if there is any grass it will probably be full of moss. No path-carpet is more beautiful than a mossy one ; indeed, where grass walks from the garden pass into woodland, the mossy character so sympathetic to the wood should be treasured, and the moss should not be scratched out with iron rakes. Often in the lawn proper a mixture of moss and grass is desirable, though one has been taught that all moss is hateful. In such places, though it may be well to check it by raking out every four or five years, it should by no means be destroyed, for in the lawn spaces adjoining trees or woodland the moss is right and harmonious. There are paths for the garden and paths for the wood. A mistaken zeal that would insist on the trimness of the straight-edged garden walk in wood- land or wild is just as much misplaced as if by slothful oversight an accumulation of dead leaves or other débris of natural decay were permitted to remain in the region of formal terrace or parterre. TREES AND SHRUBS IN POOR SOILS As there is vegetation to suit nearly all natural con- ditions, so those who find they have to undertake planting in poor, dry, hungry sands and gravels will find that there are plenty of trees and shrubs that can be used, though the choice is necessarily a more restricted one than they might make on better land. The very fact of the fewer number of available trees and shrubs may even be a benefit in disguise, as by obliging the planter to be more restricted in his choice the planting scheme will be all the more harmonious. As to trees, Holly, Thorn, Juniper, Birch, Scotch Fir, and Mountain Ash are found wild on the poorest soils, and will even grow in almost pure sand. Oaks, though they never grow to the dimensions of the Oak of loamy woodlands, are abundant on poor soils, where they have a character of their own that is full of pictorial value. The lovely Amelanchier, daintiest of small trees, revels in sandy woods, as does also the Bird Cherry, another good native tree, while the Wild Cherry becomes a forest tree of large size and of loveliest bloom. Jlex and Arbutus are excellent in the south of England, enjoying the warmth and winter dryness of light soils. Garden shrubs in general can be grown, though 16 TREES IN POOR SOILS 17 not so luxuriantly as on better soils, but some classes are especially successful on poor land. There are the Cistuses and Heaths, with Lavender and Rose- mary, in the drier parts, and in the wetter places Kalmias, Andromedas, Rhododendrons, Ledums, Per- mettyas, and Vacciniums, with the Candleberry Gale and the native Bog Myrtle. These, which are usually classed as peat shrubs, will succeed in any sandy soil with the addition of leaf-mould, and are among the most interesting and beautiful of our garden shrubs. Those who garden on poor and dry soils should remember that though their ground has drawbacks it has also some compensations. Such soils do not dry in cracks and open fissures in hot weather, and do not present a surface of soapy slides in wet; they can be worked at all times of the year, except in hard frost ; they are easy to hoe and keep clean of weeds and are pleasant and easy to work. They correct the tendency of stony soils to the making of a quantity of coarse rank growth, and they encourage the production of a quantity of flowers of good colour. PRUNING FLOWERING TREES AND SHRUBS THE art of pruning properly is one that is acquired by considerable practice and observation. The first is necessary that the actual work may be well and cleanly done, and it is only by observing the manner and times of flowering of the different trees and shrubs which go to constitute a well-kept pleasure- ground that the proper time to prune can be thoroughly understood. The manner of pruning varies considerably, some pinning their faith to a slanting cut towards a bud; some preferring a straight cut; while others again are content with simply slashing off the useless wood in the quickest possible manner. The former is the best method, as it does not present a surface for the lodgment of water, an important point with those shrubs that are of a pithy nature in the centre of the wood, as the presence of water will quickly cause the stems to rot and render the plant unsightly, even if it escapes serious injury. All stems that are an inch or more in diameter should be tarred over to keep out the wet, which either rots them directly or injures them indirectly by making a moist, congenial home for the various fungoid diseases to which so many of our exotic trees and shrubs are liable. 18 PRUNING FLOWERING TREES 19 Many shrubs which have been in one place for some years, and which have become stunted or poorly flowered, are often given a new lease of life by a hard pruning in the winter, cutting away all the old wood entirely, and shortening the remainder. With a good feeding at the same time, they will throw up strong young shoots, full of vigour, which will bear fine and well-coloured flowers. Of course, a season of blooming will be lost by doing this, but it will be amply compensated for in after years by a healthy plant in place of a decrepit and unsightly one. The list appended includes practically every flowering tree and shrub hardy in this country, with the proper time of pruning it. Those not specified flower on the old wood. ABELIA.—This genus is barely hardy, and, in most localities, is usually pruned sufficiently or too much by frost. A moderate thinning of the shoots in spring is sufficient. ACANTHOPANAX.—There are three species of this genus hardy in this country, and of these 4. ricini- folium requires no pruning beyond the cutting away of side-shoots to a single stem, as it attains the dimensions of a tree in Japan, its native country. A. sessiliflorum and A. spinosum are low-growing shrubs, and require an occasional thinning out, which is best done in late summer to allow the remainder to thoroughly ripen before winter. ACTINIDA.—A climbing genus, easily grown in warm, sheltered localities. They require very little pruning, but should be watched in spring when 20 TREES AND SHRUBS growth has commenced, or the twining shoots will get into a tangled and unsightly mass. Any growth not required should be cut away in winter. AKEBIA.—“ Akebia quinata has flowered here, on an east wall, profusely for the last seventeen years, under the following pruning treatment: Cover the space allotted with the strongest shoots, and when new growth pushes from the eyes or spurs in the spring, do not regulate it, but summer-prune away all super- fluous growth before it gets entangled. It is from ‘spurs’ that the flowers are produced, and the more these are kept clear, the more matured they become, and flower correspondingly.”—E. M. in The Garden. 4EscuLus (Horse-Chestnut)—The common re- presentative of this requires little or no pruning, but the other species are benefited by a thinning out of misplaced and useless branches in late summer to allow light and air to the centre of the tree. This is especially important to all the A¢sculus in a young state. £sculus parviflora should have a good thin- ning if the branches or suckers become at all thick, cutting all growths not required clean away from the base. AMELANCHIER.—These should be pruned after the flowers are past, the removal of badly-placed and weakly shoots being all that is required. If the plants are becoming too large, they can be shortened back at the same time. AMORPHA.—If flowers are desired of A. fruticosa it should be kept thinned out, and not be cut back ; but the flowers are not showy, and it is usually kept “ALAM LF SNAXNZY SNHLONFAD CEANOTHUS AZUREUS, VAR. MARIE SIMON. PRUNING FLOWERING TREES 21 cut down every winter for the sake of its foliage. A. canescens should be cut down each spring to within two or three eyes of the old wood, as it flowers best on the young growth. ANDROMEDA.—The only recognised species of this genus is A. poltfolia, which requires no pruning. ARALIA.—These should be kept to a single stem until they have attained a height of 6 to 8 feet, after which they may be allowed to branch, or be still kept to a single stem, as may be desired. ARBUTUS.—An evergreen genus which requires no pruning. ARISTOLOCHIA.—A genus of climbers which suc- ceed best if the shoots are not allowed to become too thick. The weakest should be cut away in winter. ARTEMISIA.—This genus is best known by its common representative, the Southernwood, but this and the other Artemisias should be cut down annually in a young state. When older, an occasional thinning out of the shoots in winter is sufficient. BaccuHaris.—Of this, B. halimtfolia flowers on the young wood and should be cut back annually, while B. patagonica should not be pruned at all. BERBERIS.—Properly the Berberis requires no pruning, but the stronger-growing species, such as B. aristata, B. Lycium, B. virescens, B. vulgaris, &c., require an occasional thinning to keep them within bounds. BERCHEMIA.—A climbing genus which requires no pruning. 22 TREES AND SHRUBS BRUCKENTHALIA.—A dwarf-growing Ericaceous genus, the seed-pods of which should be removed as soon as the flowers are past, or the plants will be seriously weakened. BRYANTHUS.—This should be treated the same as the last, which it somewhat resembles. BUDDLEIA.—Of these, B. japonica, B. intermedia, and B. lindleyana flower on the young wood and require cutting back every winter to within two or three eyes of the old wood ; B. globosa need not be pruned at all, except in a young state to keep it bushy; and B. paniculata only requires thinning out if it becomes too thick, which is not a very common occurrence. CALLUNA (the Ling).—This and its numerous varieties should have the old flowers cut off as soon as they are past, and any long or straggling growth cut back at the same time. CALOPHACA.—The solitary representative of this genus is rather inclined to become straggly if grow- ing at all freely. When this is the case, the plant is benefited by the cutting back of the longer shoots in winter. CALYCANTHUS.—These require an occasional thin- ning of the branches, and any long shoots may be shortened with advantage. CAMELLIA.—These, which should be grown out- doors much more than they are, should be cut down if they get unhealthy or unshapely, which should be done in April. Otherwise no pruning is required. CARAGANA.—Cut away all the straggling or mis- placed branches. PRUNING FLOWERING TREES 23 CARMICHAELIA.—Requires no pruning. CASSANDRA.—See CALLUNA. CassINIA.—These are grown more for their foliage than for their flowers, and should be cut down in the winter or early ‘spring. This can be done annually or biennially according to whether the plants are growing strongly or not. CASSIOPE.—See CALLUNA. CATALPA.—This genus contains some of our hand- somest flowering trees, all of which require careful pruning after the flowers are past, thinning out the weakly wood, and shortening any long branches. CEANOTHUS.—Of these, C. americanus, C. azureus, C. integerrimus, and the garden hybrids, such as “Gloire de Versailles,” ‘Marie Simon,” “Ceres,” &c., flower on the young wood, and should be cut back in spring, allowing only sufficient shoots to remain to form a well-balanced plant, and shortening them back to within two or three eyes of the old wood. The remaining species flower on the old wood, and merely require a shortening back of the stronger shoots and a thinning out of the weakly ones after the flowers are past. CELASTRUS.—A climbing genus of strong and vigorous habit with showy fruits. They only require sufficient pruning in winter to keep them within bounds. Cercis.—Requires no pruning, except such as may be necessary to make well-shaped plants, which should be done after flowering. CHIMONANTHUS.—The shoots of this should be 24 TREES AND SHRUBS shortened back after flowering, and if on a wall they should be spurred in. CHIONANTHUS.—See CERCIS. Cistus.—Those which are hardy of this genus should be cut back each spring while in a young state, but when they have attained a flowering size no pruning is required. The cutting back of young plants induces a bushy habit, and also keeps them from weakening themselves by blooming and seeding. CLEMATIS.—The garden forms of this genus are divided into two sections, of which C. Jackmani, C. lanuginosa, C. Viticella, and C. aromatica (C. cerulea odorata) are the types of those which flower on the young wood, and which require cutting back close to the old wood in the winter; while C. florida, C. patens, and C. montana are the types of those which flower on the ripened wood of the previous year, and merely require a thinning out of weakly or unnecessary growth. Of species other than those mentioned above, C. Flammula, C. paniculata, and C. Vitalba flower on the young wood; and the re- maining species are either herbaceous or flower on the old wood. CLETHRA.—These practically require no pruning, but long shoots may be shortened and weakly ones cut away with advantage. COLUTEA.—These make better plants and flower later if they are cut back every winter. C. istria (a rare species) should not be cut down if flowers are desired. CorNnus.—The strong-growing shrubby Cornus, PEARL BUSH (Evxochorda grandiflora) SHOWING ITS NATURAL BEAUTY. PRUNING FLOWERING TREES a6 such as C. alba, C. Amomum, C. Baileyi, C. pubescens, and C. stolontfera require an annual thinning out, and those with brightly-coloured stems should be cut down every spring for their effect during the follow- ing winter. The remaining Cornus require little or no pruning. COTONEASTER.—The large-growing species should be pruned in late summer, but only sufficiently to keep them within bounds ; C. Simonsii requires cut- ting down annually while young to make it bushy, and the dwarf-growing kinds are best left alone. CrAT&GuUS.—Keep the heads well thinned out to allow light and air to the centre of the tree. This should be done in late summer. CyTisus.—These require very little pruning, with the exception of C. nigricans and C. capitatus, which flower on the young wood, and should be cut back annually. The other species and varieties make better plants if they are cut down each year while in a small state, but they should be left alone when they have attained flowering size. DaBeciA (the Irish Heath)—Cut away all old flower stems in early winter. DaAPHNE.—Requires no pruning. DEsMODIUM.—These flower on the young wood, and should be cut nearly to the ground-line every spring. DeEutz1a.—The old wood should be kept cut out of these, but no shortening of young shoots should be attempted. ELZAGNUS.—These require an annual overhaul- 26 TREES AND SHRUBS ing to keep them in good condition. This should be done in late summer, when the plants should be well thinned out, and all useless growth cut clean away. ERICA.—See CALLUNA. ESCALLONIA.—These are usually cut back by frost ; but if they escape, E. rubra and E. punctata should have their long growths shortened back in spring, while the other hardy species need not be touched. EXOCHORDA.—These usually require no pruning, but if the plants are getting too large or unshapely, they should be cut back immediately after flowering. Fatsia (Aralia Sieboldi).—This is usually cut by frost, but it stands a cutting back in spring, when new growth is soon made which will flower late in the following autumn. FOTHERGILLA.—Requires no pruning. GENISTA.—G. iznctoria flowers on the young wood, and should be cut back every spring. The other species of Genista should not be pruned, except to keep them in shape. HALEsIA.—These are small trees or large shrubs, and should not be shortened back, but are improved if the growths are kept thinned out, which should be done after the flowers are past. HALIMODENDRON.—Requires no pruning. HAMAMELIS.—Thin out regularly, as they are very apt to get thick and make weakly growths. HEDYSARUM.—This flowers on the young wood, and should be cut back each spring, but not too hard. The growths can also be pegged down to improve the plant, which is apt to get straggling. PRUNING FLOWERING TREES 27 HELIANTHEMUM.—Cut away all dead flowers and seed-pods after blooming. Hipiscus.—Thin out in winter, but only shorten the longest shoots. HYDRANGEA.—These flower best on young wood, and should be cut down in winter. HYPERICUM.—These should be cut back fairly hard in early spring, as they all flower on the young growth. INDIGOFERA.—Cut down every spring, as they flower on the young wood. ITEA.—Keep the growths thinned and cut away all old wood. JAMESIA.—This should be treated as the preceding. JASMINUM.—/. fruticans and J, humile are shrubs which should be thinned regularly ; and J. nudsflorum and /. officinale are climbers, which should be spurred in after flowering. KALMIA.— Remove seed-pods as soon as the flowers are past. KERRIA.—Cut away the old wood to encourage the young growths, which yield the best flowers. LABURNUM.— These should be thinned after flowering, cutting away the old or weakly wood, and shortening any long or straggling shoots. LAVANDULA.— Cut away all flower-spikes after they are past. LeEDUM.—Remove seed-pods after flowering. LESPEDEZA.—See DESMODIUM, which it much resembles. LEUCOTHOE.—L. axillaris and L, Catesbai flower ‘PFUOTTIGNKFYUD “UPA GNF PLYTQOINKd FAONVUGCAH PRUNING FLOWERING TREES 29 NEILLIA.—Thin out every year after flowering is past, cutting back the old wood to strong young shoots. NEviusia.—This requires the same pruning as Neillia. NOTOSPARTIUM.—Requires no pruning. NUTTALLIA.—The single species of this flowers in February, and is improved by a good thinning out of the old wood when blooming is past. OLEARIA.—Requires no pruning. ONONIS.—O. rotundifolius should be cut down every winter, as it flowers on the young wood. The re- maining species flower on the older wood, and need not be touched. OSMANTHUS.—These should not be pruned unless a particular shape is desired, when the plants may be clipped with a pair of shears in spring. Oxycoccus.—This is a small creeping genus allied to Vaccinium, and requires no pruning. OXYDENDRON.—Remove seed-pods. PaLiurus.—This attains the dimensions of a small tree, and should be kept trimmed up for that purpose. PARROTIA.—Thin out in spring after the flowers are past. PauLOWNIA.—Keep to a single stem to a height of about 8 feet, and then allow it to branch. If used for sub-tropical bedding, it should be cut down to the ground every winter. PERAPHYLLUM.—The solitary hardy species of this should not be pruned or disturbed in any way if it can be avoided. 30 TREES AND SHRUBS PeripLoca.—A climbing genus which should be thinned out in winter, and only shortened back if necessary. PERNETTYA.—These should not be pruned at any time. PHILADELPHUS.—These should be thinned after flowering, and the old wood cut back to strong young shoots. This is especially important with P. microphyllus, P. coronarius, and P. Lemoinet and its varieties. PHOTINIA.—Requires no pruning. PIERIS.—Remove seed-pods. POTENTILLA.—Thin out after flowering, and shorten any old wood back to strong young breaks. Prunus.—When young, all the members of this genus that are grafted or budded are improved by being cut back each spring until they have attained a fair size and shape. More especially is this the case with the Almonds, double-flowered Peaches, and the various flowering Cherries. When older, they need only be thinned and the flowering Plums and Cherries kept spurred in, but not too hard. Prunus japonica, P. nana, and P. triloba should be cut down to strong young breaks after flowering, the resulting wood bearing better flowers than the old wood. If any of these three latter are grown on a wall they should be spurred back hard after blooming. PTELEA.—When young, trim these to form small trees, and do not allow them to develop into ungainly bushes. When older, they require an occasional thinning. P. ¢rifoliata var. aurea, a golden form PRUNING FLOWERING TREES 31 which is not grown so much as it deserves to be, should be cut back annually or biennially, the young wood being better coloured and bearing larger leaves than the old. Pyrus.—tThe wild Pears should be spurred in the same manner as adopted for fruiting Pears, though not quite so hard. The wild Crab-apples, such as P. baccata, P. floribunda, P. spectabilis, &c., should be cut back every spring until they have formed well- balanced heads. Afterwards an annual thinning and a shortening of the longest shoots after flowering is sufficient. The remaining sections of Pyrus merely require an occasional thinning. P. japonica should be kept spurred in, whether growing on a wall or in the open, and in the latter case should not be allowed to become a mass of weakly shoots. RHAMNUS.—These should be thinned out if be- coming too thick, but, as a rule, they require very little pruning. RHODODENDRON (including AZALEA).—Remove all seed-pods immediately the flowers are over, and any plants that are in a sickly condition should be cut down at the same time. By doing this a season or two of flower is lost, but it is practically the only means of bringing a weakly plant back to health again. RHODOTYPUS.—Cut away old wood, and encourage the strongest of the young growths. Ruvus.—Keep these well thinned out, and destroy all suckers that appear, unless wanted for stocks. Gloves should always be worn when handling any 32 TREES AND SHRUBS of the Rhus, as the sap of a// is poisonous to a certain extent. Ripes.—All the Ribes are improved by being cut down annually while in a young state, but when older, a yearly thinning out of the old wood is sufficient. : RoBINIA.—This is a genus that requires very little pruning when the members of it have attained a fair size, an occasional thinning being all that is necessary. In a young state they require well staking, and the longest shoots should be shortened back, as many of them are top-heavy when young. Rosa.—Although the various garden Roses come under this heading, yet they are a class apart, and are better dealt with by specialists. The species of Rosa do not require any shortening of their shoots, which should always be left at full length, but all of them should have an annual thinning out of the old wood, either cutting it right away or back to a young shoot. Some of the species are very prone to throw up suckers from underground sometimes to a considerable distance from the plant, and these should always be dug out and got rid of ; merely cutting them off only producing two evils in the place of one. Rusus.—This genus includes the Blackberry and Raspberry, and in a modified form the treatment accorded to them for fruiting is the best to employ with the ornamental Rubi, that is, all old wood that has flowered should be cut away and strong young canes encouraged. But while in the cultivation of PRUNING FLOWERING TREES 33 the Raspberry only a few young canes are allowed to grow, in the ornamental species practically every young growth should be utilised. The double- flowered Rubi should have some of the old wood left, as they do not make so much young growth as the single ones do. SANTOLINA.—This is a dwarf-growing genus, the old flower-heads of which should be cut away as soon as they are past, and any long or straggling growths cut back at the same time. SAMBuCUS.—The elders require very little pruning as a rule, but the various cut-leaved, golden, or variegated forms are improved by being cut back annually. This will prevent them flowering, but as good foliage is required the loss of the bloom is a matter of little consequence. SKIMMIA.—Requires no pruning. SMILAX.—The hardy species of this genus do not require any pruning if they have room to ramble. If space is restricted, thin out and shorten in autumn. SOPHORA.—These should be kept thinned when they have attained flowering size; in a young state they should be kept to a single stem and induced to form well-shaped trees. SPARTIUM.—This should be cut back in a small state, but when older it requires no pruning whatever. SPIRZA.—Though all the Spirzeas will flower on the old wood, the following are better for being cut back in winter to form young flowering shoots, viz., S. betulifoha, S. Douglasi, S. Foxit, S. japonica, Cc 34 TREES AND SHRUBS S. Margarita, S. salicifolia, S. semperflorens, S. tomentosa, and many of their varieties and hybrids. The remaining Spirceas should be kept thinned out, and if any are making strong young breaks from the lower part of the plant they can be cut back to them after flowering. STACHYURUS.—This should be thinned out after flowering. STAPHYLEA.—S, pinnata should be kept thinned in late summer; S. colchica and S. Colombierd require very little pruning, but if too tall or unshapely should be cut back immediately after flowering. STUARTIA STYRAX Su&pDA—Cut back occasionally to keep it from getting ragged. SYMPHORICARPUS.—Keep these well thinned out, which should be done in late summer. SYRINGA (Lilac)—These should be kept free of suckers, especially the finer-named kinds, which are usually worked on stocks of the Common Lilac. In addition, disbudding may be practised with ad- vantage in the spring, removing the majority of the blind shoots and any flowering or leading shoots that are misplaced or not required. This should be done twice or thrice at intervals of ten days or a fortnight. TAMARIX.—Cut back in a young state, but when older they should not be pruned at all. VaccINiuM.—The removal of any old or rough wood is sufficient for these. t Require no pruning. PRUNING FLOWERING TREES 35 VIBURNUM.—AIll the Viburnums grow thickly, and require an annual thinning. Vitis.—The methods practised in growing Vines for fruit suits the ornamental species as well. If space is restricted they should be grown on the spur system, and if there is plenty of room then the extension system may be employed. WISTARIA.—These should be kept spurred in, with the exception of the leading shoots, which merely require a shortening in early spring accord- ing to the strength of the plant. XANTHOCERAS.— Requires no pruning. ZENOBIA.— These require no pruning as a rule, but occasionally a hard cutting back will induce healthy growth in place of a weakly one. PROPAGATION OF HARDY TREES AND SHRUBS IF we were to take many books about trees and shrubs or general gardening as a guide, one might be led to think that only one way of increasing a tree or shrub existed, and that by grafting ; but, as we have pointed out elsewhere, it is a mischievous practice when indiscriminately applied. It is not con- tended by this that grafting and budding are utterly needless, as in a few instances these methods may be rightly adopted, but the four natural ways of increase are by layers, seeds, suckers, and cuttings. Of these, practise seed-raising whenever possible; but if seeds cannot be procured, then adopt other ways, and the man is wise who tries to keep a plant on its own roots. Neither budding nor grafting should be resorted to, unless other means fail ab- solutely. When standard trees cannot be got true from seed, budding or grafting must be practised, and the evils of these methods of propagation are not so pronounced in such cases as with dwarf plants. With the former, suckers, or growths from the stock, are easily seen as soon as they appear, but with dwarf plants a perfect forest of suckers may seriously weaken the plant before they are noticed. SEEDS.—These can be sown at almost any time, 36 PROPAGATION OF HARDY TREES 37 but the spring is the best, as those which germinate quickly have time to form strong young plants before the following winter. Some take two years to come up, and should be left in the ground. This refers more to seeds sown outdoors, and few hardy trees and shrubs require heat to assist germination. When sown in the open the beds should be made on a fairly rich, moist piece of ground, protected from cold winds, but fully exposed to the sun. After the seeds are sown, cover them with light tiffany shading, fir branches, or heather, but the first is best, as it is easily removed to attend to the bed. Conifers especially should be sown in beds, whether indoors or outdoors, as pot-culture results in the roots taking the shape of the pot, and never afterwards recovering from their cramped condition. It must be remem- bered, however, that varieties cannot be depended upon to come true from seed, though by careful selection for a few years many varieties will almost reproduce the characteristics of the parents. Hy- brids, such as Berberis stenophylla, Hypericum mosert- anum, and many others, also do not come true from seed, so that cuttings, layers, or division of the old plants, must be the practice chosen. SUCKERS.—Plants which throw up suckers from the base, or below the ground-line, are easily pro- pagated by detaching these suckers in winter with a portion of root. They will grow away readily, and soon form good trees or shrubs as the case may be. CUTTINGS.—Nearly all the hardy shrubs, and a small proportion of hardy trees also, can be pro- 38 TREES AND SHRUBS pagated by cuttings taken at certain times of the year. Summer cuttings are taken during the last two weeks of May and throughout June, the actual time depending on the season, and consist of the young shoots that have grown to a length of 3 to 6 inches. These should be pulled off with a “heel,” and inserted in sandy soil in a close frame, with brisk bottom heat. The cuttings should be taken on a dull day, or early in the morning, and kept cool and moist until they are in the frame. A cutting that has flagged is useless, as it never revives. De- ciduous flowering shrubs are usually propagated by summer cuttings, which generally root well in a fortnight or less. Autumn cuttings are taken during August and September, and are made from the partially ripened growths of the current year, in- serted in sandy soil, in a close frame, without bottom heat. Winter cuttings are made from thoroughly ripened wood at any time between October and March, and are laid in rather thickly in rows out- doors, and only about an inch or less is left above the soil. The majority of our best flowering shrubs are easily increased in this way. LAYERS.—Excellent trees and shrubs can be got by layers, and they may be laid down at any time of the year; they will be ready for removal in about eighteen months or two years. BupDDING.—This is done about August, and the same rules apply to trees and shrubs as to Roses, &c. GRAFTING.—This takes place outdoors from March to May, at the earlier time for deciduous trees and PROPAGATION OF HARDY TREES 39 shrubs, and later on for evergreens. The actual time depends upon the season. Where seed is not expressly mentioned below, it must be understood that this is the natural, and in many cases the best, way to propagate. The following trees can only be raised from seed to do any good afterwards, though a few of them will throw up suckers, which can be taken off and replanted: £sculus (Chestnut), Adlantus, Alnus (Alder), Arbutus, Betula (Birch), Carpinus (Hornbeam), Carya (Hickory), Castanea (Sweet Chestnut), Celtis (Nettle tree), Fagus (Beech), Fraxinus (Ash), Gledits- chia (Honey Locust), /Juglans (Walnut), Laburnum, Liquidambar, Morus (Mulberry), Prunus, Pyrus, Quercus (Oak), Sophora, Ulmus (Elm), and Zelkova. The varie- ties of any species of the above, and, in fact, of nearly all hardy trees, must be budded or grafted on the species they are forms of, but an exotic species should never be worked on the native representative of the genus—e.g. £sculus flava should not be budded on the Common Horse Chestnut, as the latter is far too strong a stock for the smaller-growing A¢sculus. Acer (Maple) and Tila (Lime or Linden) can be raised from seeds or by layering, the Lime especially being largely propagated from layers, which soon form strong young trees. The varieties of Maple are best worked on stocks of the species they belong to. Crategus (Thorn), Catalpa, and Robinia (Locust tree), can be raised from suckers or root-cuttings, if seeds cannot be got. Any of their varieties are 40 TREES AND SHRUBS usually budded or grafted on stocks of the parent species. Ilex (Holly), Magnoha, Populus (Poplar), Platanus (Plane), and Sax (Willow). The Holly is easily raised from cuttings and layers, the second roots readily when layered, and the latter three are pro- pagated in large quantities by winter cuttings. The White Poplar (Populus alba) is an exception, as this can only be increased by root-cuttings. INCREASING HARDY SHRUBS The best of our hardy flowering shrubs are grouped under seven natural orders, and a knowledge of the order to which a plant belongs is in most cases a guide to its propagation, as the majority of the species con- tained in an order are, as a rule, increased by the same methods. BERBERIDE&.—This contains Afkebia and Berberis, which are propagated by seeds, cuttings, or layers. Berberis stenophylla and B. Neubertt do not come true from seed, so that one or both of the other methods mentioned above must be adopted. LEGUMINOSZ.—In this order such genera as Cytisus (Broom), Genista (Rock Broom), Spartium (Spanish Broom), Ononts, Indigofera, Colutea (Bladder Senna), Caragana (Siberian Pea tree), and Cercis (Judas tree) should be raised from seed, which is the quickest and best method of propagation. Cuttings of certain forms of Cytisus and Genista will root readily, but the plants will sometimes die off just as they have PROPAGATION OF HARDY TREES 41 attained flowering size. Ulex (Furze, Whin, or Gorse) is propagated by seeds or cuttings, and Wistarias by seeds or by layering. ROSACE2.—This includes Prunus, the shrubby forms of which can, in the majority of cases, be increased by cuttings or layers; Spirwa and Kerria (Jews’ Mallow), cuttings of which root readily at almost any time of the year; Exochorda (Pearl Bush), must be raised from seed to do any good; Rubus (Brambles), some of which can be propagated by suckers, and the remainder by pegging the points of the shoots down to form young plants; Rosa (Rose), the species of which should be increased by seeds, cuttings, or layers, though seeds will not always come true, as Roses become hybridised very readily ; and Cotoneaster, which are increased by seeds, cuttings, or layers. SAXIFRAGEZ.—In this order Hydrangea, Deutzia, Philadelphus (Mock Orange), Escallonia, and Ribes (Flowering Currant) are included. All are easily propagated by cuttings taken in almost any season of the year. With the exception of Hydrangea, which should be struck under glass, all the mem- bers of this order root readily outdoors in the winter. CAPRIFOLIACE2.—This order contains such genera as Sambucus (Elder), Viburnum, Lonicera (Honey- suckle), Symphoricarpus (Snowberry tree), Adelia, Leycesteria, and Diervilla. All are easily propagated by cuttings or by layering. The cuttings can be taken at almost any time of the year, and root 42 TREES AND SHRUBS quickly, the young plants attaining a good size by the end of the second year. ERICACEZ.—This order includes all the so-called American plants, such as Pernettya, Gaultheria, Leu- cothoé, Andromeda, Pieris, Zenobia, Erica (Heath), Calluna (Common Heather, Ling), Kalmia, Ledum, Clethra, and Rhododendron (including Azalea). These can all be increased by seeds, layering, and, in addition, the first two by division of the old plants. Erica and Calluna can also be increased by cuttings. Seedlings, of course, make the best plants, but layer- ing is a quicker method, and, in the case of some of the smaller Ericacez, one of the easiest. All the Rhododendrons will not root from cuttings, though some of the small-flowered ones strike easily, but practically all may be increased from layers. A few of the showy garden forms cannot be raised from layers, and have to be grafted on stocks of the common R. ponticum or R. catawbiense. OLEACE&.—This includes both deciduous flowering shrubs and ornamental evergreens, such as Syringa (Lilac), Chionanthus (Fringe tree), Jasminum (Jasmine), Forsythia, Ligustrum (Privet), Phillyrea, and Osmanthus being represented. The first two are best propagated by seeds or layers, though the named garden Lilac is usually grafted on stocks of the common S. vulgaris, a silly practice. It is a pitiful business keeping down suckers from grafted plants. Ask for Lilacs on their own roots, and much vexation will be saved. A garden should be a place of rest and pleasure, not a hunting-ground for suckers. The PROPAGATION OF HARDY TREES 43 other genera are readily raised by cuttings taken at almost any time of the year, or by layering. Although the above orders include a considerable number of our best shrubs, several plants must be specially mentioned. The Clematis is increased by seeds, cuttings, or layers in the case of the species, but unfortunately the garden forms are usually grafted on C. Viticella or C. Flammula, whereas many can be propagated by cuttings, and practically all will root when layered. Daphne should be raised from seeds, or by layering, though a common prac- tice is to graft all the rarer Daphnes on D. Mezereum, which is another mistake, especially with the ever- green ones, which have a brief existence grafted on a deciduous plant. In the absence of seeds the following genera must be propagated by layers, viz., Aucuba, Chimonanthus (Winter Sweet), Halesia (Snowdrop tree), Hamamelis (Witch Hazel), Appophaé (Sea Buckthorn), and Myrica (Candleberry Myrtle). Cuttings of the first will root readily enough, but never seem to succeed afterwards. The female form of Azppophaé is best raised from layers, as seedlings usually give a large percentage of male plants. Arata and Rhus (Sumach) are increased by seeds or root-cuttings ; Buddleia japonica is best raised from seeds, and the other Buddleias from cuttings; and practically all other hardy shrubs that have not been specially mentioned are easily propagated by seeds, cuttings, or layers, and the majority of them by all three methods. 44 TREES AND SHRUBS Always keep a plant on its own roots whenever possible. Budding and grafting are only makeshifts ; but, of course, zf it 7s zmpossible to increase a tree or shrub by any other means, then resort to budding or grafting. It is strange that layering is yet only in its infancy. We have gone on blundering for generations, and propagating wholesale in the most uncertain and unsatisfactory of all ways, that is, by grafting or budding when neither was in the least expedient. Such tricks have hindered the develop- ment of English gardening. TULIP TREE AT RANELAGH (Winter). WINTER BEAUTY OF LIME. A WINTER GARDEN OF TREES AND SHRUBS THE budding spring, the ripening summer, the out- poured riches of harvest, appeal to all, physically if not spiritually. But to hundreds of people a winter landscape is dreary beyond expression. They never dream of going into a garden during the dark months ; to them its silent lessons are but a dead- letter, nor would they ever wake to the beauty of bare boughs nor pause to note the strange glow of withered Fern fronds in the grey gloom of a foggy day. We are not wholly free from blame in this matter in so far as our gardens are concerned, for spring and summer and autumn all have their share in the garden plan, while winter, too often, stands apart uncared for and unclothed. Yet how much may be done by the right grouping of beautiful trees and shrubs to make the winter garden harmonious and inviting. “You see, it takes a deal of insight to know what’s a-going to be,” was a remark, half-apologetic, half-regretful, often made by an old gardener of a school now gone by, when matters horticultural went somewhat athwart of his calculations. The words recur to mind as containing a germ of truth beyond the meaning of the speaker. It has been 45 46 TREES AND SHRUBS well said with regard to deeper matters that fore- sight must spring from insight, and it may be taken also as a foundation principle of good gardening. For just in proportion as we use our faculties of insight and foresight will our gardens grow, more or less, into a perfect expression of our sense of the ever-changeful, never-ending beauty of Nature. It must be no cursory glance given to get rid of an unwelcome duty. We must look deep into the meaning of things as they are—a meaning which never lies wholly on the surface—before we can forecast them as they are going to be, and such insight rarely comes by intuition. The seeing eye is given only to a few, though with some it is but sleep-holden and needs no more than to be awakened. The things that are and the things that are to be. Let us take the thought as company and try to glean some of Nature’s own lessons of fitness. How instinctively we seek, for a winter ramble, the shelter of the woodland copse, which is not far distant from any English country habitation, The broad grass drive is hoar with frosty rime in the shadow of the bushes and crisp under foot. Under the trees the ground on either side is carpeted with Ivy. The lithe, trailing stems, wreathed with their shining, taper-fingered leaves, so exquisitely pencilled, are cushioned on the soft, feathery moss, or twine in and out amongst the Hazel stocks, or creep at will up the nearest tree trunk. One can scarcely look at Ivy on a winter’s day without a A WINTER GARDEN OF TREES 47 thrill of admiration, especially this woodland sort, for, mark it well, Nature never encourages the coarse-lived Ivy of common cultivation within her domains. How perfect in its grace is this fine- leaved Ivy, how utterly content with its surroundings, how resolutely cheerful, be the circumstances of weather or situation what they may! Clinging lowly to the ground or mounting to the topmost branch of some tall Pine, it is equally at home, and why should we not agree with that good naturalist, Charles Waterton, in his assertion that forest tree was never injured by its clasping stems? An English plant for our English climate, it may be used to make beautiful an unsightly building, to clothe a decay- ing tree stump, as bush or border or mantle, in a hundred different ways, yet it is never out of character, and never touches a jarring note. Then those tall Hollies, see how dauntlessly they stand up above the under-growth of Hazel. How living and warm, in their ruddy glow, are the cluster- ing berries in the glint of the fearless leaves, For expedience sake, their lower branches have been trimmed away, and greatly we gain by it, for other- wise that lovely contrast of their ashen-grey stems would be hidden from our eyes; but over yonder a fine old Holly tree stands alone, which axe and knife have left untouched, and how graceful is the curven sweep of its feathering boughs. No foreign evergreen can excel it for symmetry of form or winter garniture of leaf and fruit. Life is astir, too, in the brown twigs of the Hazel bushes. The infant 48 TREES AND SHRUBS year is not more than a week or two old, yet already the tasselled catkins are swinging in the lightest rustle of the sighing wind, and begin to lift up their tiers of small woolly cowls to set free the yellow pollen-dust. And so we may go on our way, and, at every turn, some rugged Yew, or clump of red-stemmed Scotch Fir, or tapering Spruce with hanging russet cones, will stay our steps, and if we look and listen, they will tell us in their own way the story of their perfect fitness for our homely English landscape. Or, if we chance to be in one of the chalky districts of the South Downs, we may come upon Box, the ever young, as it was called of yore, or Juniper, in its bloom of silver grey, as precious. as any, to add to the tale of our best native evergreens. Now it is to a wise choice of evergreens and to their rightful placing that we must look for the basis of our content in the winter garden. The insight of our forefathers foresaw the solid comfort of the rampart of Yew which was fostered of old in many a manor-house garden. It caused them to fence about their dwellings on north and east with a belt of sturdy timber trees, to meet and ward off in their pliant strength the roughest winter gales. It planned the sheltered nut-walk and the pleached alley and the cosy settle, carved out of the thick Box bushes, on the grassy verge of the bowling- green. They took of the materials at hand, and many have since their day blessed the fore- sight which planted, not only for themselves, but A WINTER GARDEN OF TREES 49 for their children’s children. That they were not blind to the rare beauty of foreign trees many a magnificent Cedar of Lebanon and massive Ilex, or deciduous tree—like the fine Tulip trees at Mackery End, beloved of Charles Lamb—bear noble testimony to this hour. Nothing, perhaps, in the wide range of garden beauty is more pictorial than an ancient Cedar, dusky and glaucous, with cavernous shadows, holding upright the smooth, pale-brown, rounded cones on its flattened branches, or some grand Silver Fir standing alone in its solemn symmetrical beauty, or even, as may now and then be seen, though rarely, some stately Araucaria, wind-sheltered, whose radiat- ing branches sweep down upon the greensward. Others there are, no less pictorial perhaps, nor even less exacting, for none can do without the shelter of a good position, such as the Stone Pines, with corrugated trunk and green spreading head; or again, the graceful fragrant Cypress (C. /awsoniana) of more recent date, with its slender pyramidal growth and drooping feathery branches, taking on at the close of winter the ruby-red of the catkins which tell of the coming of the small, bloom- powdered cones. The desperate hurry, the incessant crowding out of the times in which we live, give little encourage- ment to the sentiment of planting for posterity, yet some such planting is continually being done. This much must be said, that the last fifty years have seen the introduction of numberless fine trees and D 50 TREES AND SHRUBS shrubs, the fitness of which for our climate time alone could test. During that period in England, the Mammoth tree of the Yosemite Valley (Sequoza gigantea) has been planted in its thousands, and by irony of fate, the giant not seldom finds itself cramped within the limits of a half-acre plot. But leaving out the question of space, it is a_ tree utterly unsuited to our northern climate, unless under exceptional circumstances, as its scorched and fretted branches on the windward side suffi- ciently prove; while in itself it is not nearly so grand or suggestive as its near-of-kin, the beautiful Californian Redwood (S. sempervirens). Ah! that burning question of space, how it comes between us and our highest garden aspirations! Have we not all seen the Deodar or the Araucaria trying to exist in a narrow, twelve-foot forecourt, and smiled, if we have not rather been ready to weep, over the crass absurdity of its position? But such mistakes are made every day. Let us think, then, before we plant, of the things that are going to be, and take prudent counsel with ourselves. Our garden resources, nowadays, are beyond all calculation greater than those of our forefathers, and we rejoice and are glad because of it; but we should let nothing oust from our affections the hardy trees and shrubs, native and naturalised, that are at home in our climate, beautiful in themselves and invaluable in their fitness to give shelter to the more fastidious immigrants from other latitudes. Shelter, in fact, is as the keynote to the winter e A WINTER GARDEN OF TREES 51 garden. Beauty is killed when leaves that should be green and smiling are bruised and brown, when boughs that should be perfect in grace and curve are twisted and tortured. We may be very sure, too, that such symptoms of discomfort in our gardens will re-act in disquiet on ourselves, whereas the mere sight of tree or bush standing firm in its green bravery through storm and stress tends, it may be unawares, to brace and uplift. Even the familiar Laurel, good as it is when suitably placed, and used not too freely, is constantly scathed and disfigured in damp or low-lying localities, For the same reason, it is doubtful whether Rhododendrons should be planted within range of our windows, Most of them, in severe weather, frightened before they are hurt, put on a melancholy air and droop of leaf which is apt to send a shiver through any shrinking mortal whose vitality is already low enough. The bare boughs of winter, on the contrary, are never depressing. They sleep, but it is not the sleep of death ; they rest, but while they are resting, we feel that the mystery of life silently works out the fulfilment of the promise of re-awakening. Mean- while, before the veil of leafage hides so much else that is beautiful from our eyes, we see the things that are, tree trunks in all their majesty of girth and column and fencing bark, the net-work of budding spray, each after its kind distinct, yet each in its own form perfect. Even in mid-winter, the brown gummy buds of the Horse Chestnuts begin to swell 52 TREES AND SHRUBS at the ends of the swaying boughs, and the Ash- buds, as they make ready to burst their bonds, put on a deeper hue. The Beeches keep their silken green tight shut within their scale-bound points, and will not let it unfold an hour too soon; but look at the lovely colouring, now silvern, now golden green, of the Lichen-stains on the smooth grey bark. Contrast it with the deeply-chiselled ribs of the Sweet Chest- nut, the rugged armour-plates of the Oak, the thin white tissue of the dainty Silver Birch. It is this diversity, these contrasts, which make up the charm of winter, while the sombre green of Fir and Yew intermingling with the leafless trees gives just the touch of warmth and comfort which winter lacks. If any of these bless our gardens with their gracious presence, let us hesitate long before any trivial inconvenience tempts us into doing away with them. A single group of Silver Birches, one spreading Beech, a clump of Scotch Fir, with a stretch of grass beneath them, is more precious to look out upon in the winter garden than all the borders and rockeries that can be devised. Urge as we may, however, for their own sake, the fitness and constant delight of our native trees and ever- green shrubs, we plead for them, no less, because by their well-advised use our sheltered gardens may become congenial abiding-places for the strangers we may invite within our gates. Do we profit as much as we might by the wealth of garden beauty, in the way of trees and shrubs, A WINTER GARDEN OF TREES 353 which for every intent and purpose lies within our reach ? Take Magnolias, for example. They are not sub- tropical trees, as we are apt to think, but fairly hardy, and the Laurel Magnolia, so well known as a beautiful covering for a south wall, is seldom enough seen in standard form. Yet it is one of the most stately of evergreen trees, and it would be hard to find one more worthy of a good position, sheltered from north and easterly winds. The whole outline of the tree is noble, with its broad, shining, russet- backed leaves, a delight to look upon in winter—nor is it shy, when full-grown, of bearing in late summer its scented ivory-white lily-cups. It is too much, however, to expect the lovely-sculptured, crimson- flushed cones, which in warmer climates than ours open about November to disclose their hanging scarlet seeds. Some of the deciduous Magnolias, too, such as the fine Chinese Yulan (M. conspicua) and the bushy white-flowered Japanese species (M. stellata), are full of interest, even while lifeless. All through the winter we may watch the gradual filling out of the hairy, conical flower-bracts, until at length, in very early spring, the impatient buds can contain themselves no longer, and all too soon, sometimes, push them off altogether that they may creep out of their prison bands. Every one has his private calendar, and reckons the seasons by a computation of his own, but we may safely say that four long months, if no more, separate the falling of the leaf from its coming again. 54 TREES AND SHRUBS Perhaps we ought not to include Magnolias amongst hibernal flowers, though the trees are often white with blossom before the Larch is green; but the list of shrubs which bloom, or are bright with coloured fruit during those four months, would sur- prise most people who think of winter only as the dead season. The boughs of Sea Buckthorn are loaded with orange berries. Clusters of scarlet peep out of the fresh green of the Skimmia bushes and, so long as the birds do not find them out, Pernettya carries a crop of purple and crimson and pink fruit more showy than the modest white flowers of summer. When November days are growing dark, Coronilla, in sheltered spots, puts forth its pale clustering yellow flowers. Winter Jasmine, if the flowering branches are not ruthlessly pruned away in autumn, covers its long green shoots with golden stars. The ever- green Clematis (C. calycina) is never happier than when clinging to some terrace balustrade where it may have a little kindly shelter, which it repays by wreathing the stone-work with garlands of finely-cut bronzed foliage, hung with creamy freckled bells. More than one kind of hardy Heath, if grown in spreading masses, will deck the garden with sheets of colour the whole winter through. The Chinese Honeysuckle (Z. Standishit) arrays itself in its fragile white flowers as early as January. Witch Hazels hang their bare branches with twisted petals of gold or amber or, sometimes (as in Hama- melis zuccariniana), borrow the pale-green tint of the under wing of a brimstone butterfly. Soon after A WINTER GARDEN OF TREES 55 Christmas, Mezereon flushes into rosy purple, and bushes of Winter-sweet (Chimonanthus fragrans), inde- pendent of a wall (as few people know), will breathe out its perfume from leafless branches studded over with waxen-yellow flowers. It is strange how many of these winter-blooming plants keep their leaves well out of harm’s way, brave as their flowers may be. But so it is, and so we learn that if we would gain their fullest winter beauty, we must group them with evergreen shrubs as foil or background. And what store there is of these to choose from, not green only, but colour-tinged—Berberis of many kinds, the shining ordered leaf-rows of Azara, the purple tints of Mahonia and Gaultheria, the bronze of Andromeda buds, the deep dull green of Osmanthus, the wine red of Leucothoé, the pearl grey of Aériplex, and a hundred more will respond to our beck and call. Only we must choose with judgment, for whether our lot is cast in north or south, in the black east or soft caressing west, makes all the differ- ence to our choosing. Only be sure that more important still than climate are the wind-breaks we can plan, and the shelter we may contrive. Yet when we are in doubt we can always come back with satisfaction to the quick-growing hardiest shrubs and find in them some fit setting for our garden picture. The slender angled branches of green Broom, the rigid spiny Furze, scented Rosemary, or hoary Lavender—all will lend their varied tints and attributes as we need them. And if a pool or stream only gives us opportunity, what can surpass the 56 TREES AND SHRUBS winter colouring of osier twigs—golden and crimson and olive, mirrored in still water or broken into a thousand reflections by the ripple of a running brook. Perhaps, amongst all the wealth of winter ever- green shrubs the rank of those which show variega- tion is too much exaggerated. Popular as they are, the effect is not always good, unless more than ordinary care is taken in their placing. Some few, like the best golden and silver Hollies are very beautiful, though not all of these are improvements upon the finest green forms. No variegated shrub, probably, is more universally grown than the Aucuba, and it has excellent points ; it is hardy in constitu- tion, handsome in outline, and bold of leaf. By ill- luck, as it happened, more than a hundred years ago, the spotted variety was sent home first from Japan, and became domiciled in English gardens and rooted in English affections before the far more worthy green species made its entry. It is but a private opinion and not given as dogma that it might possibly be a distinct gain to gardens, large and small, if the spotted Aucuba were practi- cally banished and the true green-leaved forms— some of which are generally beautiful when well set with large coral berries—allowed to take its place. The variegated Oleaster (E/e@agnus pungens), a remark- ably fine shrub when taken by itself, sadly disturbs the repose and dignity of the garden outlook in winter, though doubtless positions might be found in which it would harmonise with its surroundings. We need only con over, mentally, all the more A WINTER GARDEN OF TREES 57 familiar examples of shrub variegation to find, pro- bably, that we should do as well without a goodly proportion of them, though we may frankly admit some to be very handsome. The secret of our discontent, possibly, lies in the fact that variegation in plants that are normally green is not, in its essence, a sign of health but of wasting sickness. In any case, whatever our feelings may be on this particular point, it is well worth while to weigh the merits of each shrub, variegated or green, before we plant it, not only individually, but in relation to its neighbourhood to other garden associates, and more especially with regard to its winter aspect. Mr. Bean writes as follows about the winter beauty of trees and shrubs: ‘Even in November and December there are trees and shrubs that brighten the garden with their coloured bark and fruits. Although not abundant, the members of this class are not used so extensively as they might be. “Among Willows, for instance, there are the golden and red-barked varieties of Salix vitellina. These, though scarcely ever seen, are capable, when properly treated, of producing bright warm effects that are especially charming from November to February. When allowed to grow naturally this Willow—known popularly as the Golden Osier— forms a graceful tree of large size. Its twigs have a golden or red tinge, according to the variety, but on fully-grown trees these twigs are not large, and as it is, of course, the bark of the preceding summer’s 58 TREES AND SHRUBS growth only that is coloured no very marked colour effect is produced. To obtain a really bright patch of colour it is necessary to plant these Willows in goodly-sized groups and to prune them hard back every spring. By treating them in this way a great cluster of long, wand-like growths is made every year, the bark over the whole of which becomes a bright yellow or red as winter approaches. An effective group is produced by mixing the red and yellow-barked varieties. “ Another striking Willow is Salix daphnoides. The young bark of this species is covered with a thick glaucous or vivid blue-white ‘bloom.’ SS. acutifolia is similarly distinguished, though not quite so markedly. Different from any of these Willows, too, is the variety of S. ¢viandra, with purplish-brown bark. To bring out fully the ornamental qualities of these Willows they should be treated as advised for Salix vitellina. All these Willows are especially charming near the edge of water. Not only are their moisture-loving propensities satisfied, but their beauty is doubled by reflection in the water. “ Somewhat similar to the Willows in the character of their bark, but useful in being adapted for drier situations, are the Cornels (Cornus). The best of the genus in this connexion are Cornus alba and its variety sibirica. They produce bark which for one or two seasons remains a bright red during the time the branches are leafless. A group of Cornus alba, with Chionodoxa Lucile or Winter Aconite planted thickly beneath, gives a very pleasing bit of colour early in A WINTER GARDEN OF TREES 59 the year. A yellow-barked form of Cornus stolonifera, known as flaviramea, deserves mention. ‘Several shrubs are notable for the particularly bright green of their bark. The forms of Kerria Japonica and Neila are very bright during the winter on this account, but still more effective is a near ally, Stephanandra kanake, a comparatively new shrub, also from Japan, but of little value in any other respect. Finally, 1 may mention the Rubuses with white stems. As in Salix daphnoides, the bark is covered with the waxy secretion known as ‘bloom,’ and of a blue-tinted white. Some six Or seven species of Rubus have this character. Of those obtainable from nurseries, R. biflorus, a Himalayan species often to be had from dealers under the erroneous name of Rubus leucodermis, is the best. Dr. A. Henry has introduced a Chinese species, Rubus lasiostylus, which is even better than biflorus; the bloom is more distinctly blue, and the stems sturdier and more self-supporting. The species is, however, an extremely rare one in cul- tivation. It is scarcely necessary to repeat how essential it is that these Brambles and Cornels should be planted in bold groups. “ Among trees the most noteworthy as regards the colour of their bark are the Birches. The beauty of the Common White Birch has not been overlooked by planters. A single specimen or a few grouped together make a bright winter picture when asso- ciated with evergreens. The Canoe Birch of North America (Betula papyrifera) has a bark of an even 60 TREES AND SHRUBS purer white than our native species. The Yellow Birch (B. lutea) shows warm orange-brown tints on the more recently exposed surfaces of its bark. The bark of the River Birch (B. nigra) is not brightly coloured, being of a dull dark brown, but it gives the tree a notably curious aspect owing to the way it stands out from the trunk and branches in great ragged-looking flakes. A FLOWER GARDEN IN WINTER “It is possible to make a new feature in gardens by setting apart a piece of ground exclusively for the cultivation of trees, shrubs, and bulbs—in short, any plants that flower or are bright with fruit or bark between, say, the beginning of November and the end of February. One might term it ‘an out-door winter garden.’ For the purpose there would be required a well-drained piece of ground, the soil of which was fertile and open. The situation should be fully exposed to the south and west, but guarded well on the north and east sides by a thick belt of evergreen trees and shrubs. The shelter would be still more complete if the site sloped rather steeply to the south-west. Such shelter would be welcome, not only to the plants that grew there, but to those who might visit and tend them. Some of the more noteworthy trees and shrubs with ornamental barks I have already mentioned. Plants that carry their fruit into winter might be included, such as the Hollies, especially the yellow-berried Holly; Cvra- “PNFININPIONZ UFA FOINOdFL SITANFNVH ‘YFMOTA NI TAZVH HOLIM F Suey Usealy ‘PFLFTF SANTA A WINTER GARDEN OF TREES 61 tegus Crus-Galli and C. spathulata; Cotoneaster rotun- adifolia, which is the best of all the Cotoneasters, and frequently carries its bright-scarlet berries till March ; and Aippophe rhamnoides, the Sea Buck- thorn, whose orange-coloured fruits are borne in such profusion and retain their colour till past Christmas if the frosts are not too severe. The scarlet-fruited Skimmia japonica and its varieties are very ornamental during the winter months, but of these (as well as the Hippophz) it is necessary to grow male and female plants together. Groups of variegated evergreens would not only help to give shelter and warmth, but would also add to the brightness of the garden. The best of them are the golden and silver variegated Elzeagnuses, the Hollies of a similar character, and the best of the Aucubas, of which there are now some very fine forms ; the female plants are also very ornamental as fruit- bearers. Pinus sylvestris aurea, a variety of the Scotch Pine that turns golden in winter but is green at other seasons, and Cupressus macrocarpa lutea are the two best Conifers of their class. Many of the variegated Conifers lose most or all of their colour as autumn and winter approach. “With regard to the trees and shrubs that bear flowers between November and February, the num- ber is not, of course, great ; still, they constitute a group that is larger, perhaps, than is generally sup- posed. The following list, which comprises all that I can call to mind, may be useful even to those who would not intend to bring them together in one spot. 62 TREES AND SHRUBS Some country houses are only occupied during the shooting and hunting seasons, and these winter- flowering plants are of especial value in such places. November Arbutus hybrida. Hamamelis virginica. 55 Unedo and vars. Jasminum nudiflorum. Daphne Mezereum grandiflora. | Lonicera fragrantissima. Elzagnus glabra, macrophylla, » Standishii. and pungens (all delightfully fragrant). December and January Chimonanthus fragrans. Erica carnea. Clematis calycina. = » alba. Crateegus monogyna preecox Garrya elliptica. (Glastonbury Thorn). Viburnum Tinus. Erica mediterranea hybrida. February and early March Berberis japonica. Hamamelis zuccariniana. » nepalensis. Prunus davidiana (pink and Cornus Mas. white forms). Corylopsis spicata. » amygdalus persi- Daphne blagayana. coides. » Laureola. Populus tremuloides pendula. ‘5 Mezereum. Parrotia persica. rr 3 var. alba. Pyrus japonica. » oleoides. Rhododendron altaclarense. Erica mediterranea. 5 dauricum. Hamamelis arborea. . nobleanum. 53 japonica. iy preecox. Pa mollis. AUTUMN COLOURS THERE is a certain amount of mystery about the autumn colouring of the foliage of hardy trees and shrubs in this country, and we have never yet ascer- tained with any degree of exactness the conditions that produce the richest and brightest colours, Probably the conditions most favourable generally are provided by a good growing season—that is, a warm, moist summer—followed by a dry, sunny autumn. But it frequently happens after what one would regard as favourable seasons, that species which are usually quite trustworthy in this matter fail to colour well. Probably one set of condi- tions does not suit all trees and shrubs in this respect. To produce the colouration of the leaf just before it falls certain subtle chemical changes in its composition take place. And to bring about these changes certain conditions in regard to sun- light, temperature, and moisture are necessary. But in a climate such as that of Britain, where the seasons are never alike two years together, we can never hope to obtain the same regularity of autumnal colouring that characterises the vegetation, for in- stance, of the Eastern United States. Still, when all is said, we possess in our gardens a large number of trees and shrubs and climbers that are delightful 63 64 TREES AND SHRUBS in their autumnal livery of crimson, purple, scarlet, or gold. It is curious that every season we may notice species not usually conspicuous for their autumn tints beautifully coloured. An over-vigorous, sappy growth, often the result of a wet, warm autumn or too rich a soil, is certainly detrimental to autumn colouring. Rhus cotinotdes, an American Sumach, worth growing for the beauty of its colours in autumn, is one of the most unfailing in this matter. But young plants, put out in well- trenched, heavily-manured soil, will often fail to colour at all till they get older and less vigorous. The most beautifully-coloured examples of this Sumach that we have seen grow in rather light sandy soil. We have frequently noticed, too, that various species of Vine (Vitis) when starved in pots will colour exquisitely, whilst others, planted out in the ordinary way, completely fail. We believe, therefore, when planting with a view to the produc- tion of autumnal colour, any great enrichment of the soil is neither necessary nor advisable, provided it is of moderate quality to start with. In the following notes, brief mention is made of some of the best trees, shrubs, and climbers that colour in autumn :— TREES First among these are the American Red Oaks. Undoubtedly the best of these is a variety of Quercus coccinea known as splendens and grayana. This not only turns to a fine scarlet crimson, but it retains its AUTUMN COLOURS 65 foliage for some weeks after the colour has been acquired—sometimes almost up to Christmas. Other good Oaks, not so certain, however, as the preceding, are Quercus marylandica (or nigra), Q. heterophylla, Q. imbricaria, and Q. palustris, all of which turn red. The Tupelo tree (Nyssa sylvatica) turns a fine bur- nished bronzy red. A tree remarkable for the size of its leaves, and especially for the rich golden yellow they put on in autumn, is Carya tomentosa, but, like most of the Hickories, it is scarcely known in gardens. Carya sulcata is somewhat similar. The Common Elm is usually very beautiful in the soft yellow tints of its leaves in autumn, but another Elm of more distinct aspect is Ulmus pumila, a low tree whose small leaves are retained till late in the year, and turn golden yellow before they fall. Liguidambar styraciflua has long been valued for its fading foliage of purple red, but not so well known is the lovely yellow of the Fern-like foliage of the Honey Locust (Gleditschia triacanthos). The Tulip tree (Liriodendron), the Nettle trees (Celtis), the Zelkowas, and several of the Birches turn yellow, one of the best of the Birches being Betula corylifola, which turns a rich orange yellow. Among commoner trees the yellow of the Horse Chestnut, the lovely crimson of the Wild Cherry, the golden shades of the Black and Lombardy Poplars, add much to the beauty of every autumn. Several of the Maples are noteworthy in this respect, more especially the numerous varieties of Japanese Maples (Acer palmatum and A. japonicum), these, as well as E 66 TREES AND SHRUBS the Mandshurian Acer Ginnala, turning to various shades of red. The Common Sycamore and Norway Maple change to yellow, but Schwedler’s variety of the latter becomes red. Other trees that deserve mention are Amelanchier canadensis, whose foliage changes to lovely crimson shades in autumn; Ka/- reuteria japonica, soft yellow ; Pyrus torminalis, bronzy red; Gingko biloba, pale gold; Cladrastis tinctoria, yellow ; Parrotia persica and Hamamelis, bronzy red and yellow. The Common Beech is nearly always beautiful, changing first to yellow, then to warm brown tints. Among Conifers the yellow-leaved variety (aurea) of the Scotch Pine is remarkable in retaining its colour during the winter months only, becoming green in spring and summer. Retinospora squarrosa and Cryptomeria elegans turn bronzy red in winter. The warm red-brown tints of the deciduous Cypress are charming. SHRUBS The Sumachs (Rhus) furnish some of the most striking of autumn-colouring shrubs; the best of them, R. cotinotdes, has been already described ; other fine species are R. typhina, R. glabra (with the cut- leaved variety Jaciniata), and R. Toxtcodendron, all of which turn red. The Venetian Sumach, R. Cotinus, becomes yellow. Berberis Thunbergi, which dies off a rich scarlet, is so beautiful in autumn that on some estates it has been planted in great quantity, not only for cover, but so that sportsmen may enjoy its colour during the shooting season. Its evergreen AUTUMN COLOURS 67 ally, B. Aquifolium, turns a glowing red or purple after the first frosts. The Ghent Azaleas almost always colour richly, either deep glowing crimson, bronzy red, or gold ; and of other ericaceous plants the warm tints of Pzeris mariana and the rich crimson of the Enkianthus should be mentioned. The taller American Vacciniums (corymbosum and its various forms) are always lovely. Our native Guelder Rose (Viburnum Opulus) becomes crimson in autumn, whilst the Common Hazel and Rhamnus Frangula often produce fine effects in yellow. The feathery foliage of Spirea Thunbergi is singularly beautiful when it changes from its natural pale green to crimson; and two other Japanese shrubs (both, unfortunately, very rare) are remarkable for their autumnal beauty. These are Disanthus cercidifolia, an ally of the Witch Hazels, lovely claret colour, and Viburnum alnifolium, crimson. Other noteworthy shrubs are Fothergilla alnifolia, rich red; Euonymus alatus, crimson; Deutzia crenata, yellow; and Pyrus arbutifolia, red. The common Brambles of our woods should not be passed over without mention ; they turn a rich glowing red, and for their autumnal beauty alone may be used as undergrowth in wilder parts of the garden and woodland. CLIMBERS First among these, of course, is Veitch’s Ampe- lopsis, the finest of all deciduous climbers for walls, being self-supporting and changing to crimson in 68 TREES AND SHRUBS autumn. Vitis Coignetie is one of the noblest of all Vines, and turns crimson also. Other Vines useful in this respect are the Teinturier Vine, purple ; V. Romaneti, red; and the Virginian Creeper, espe- cially that variety known as muralis or Engelmannii, which clings to walls or tree trunks without any artificial support, and acquires beautiful red shades in autumn. Among Honeysuckles, Lonicera japonica var. flexuosa is noteworthy for the fine red purple of its decaying leaves. TREES AND SHRUBS WITH FINE FRUITS THE most important of all the groups of trees and shrubs, for their fruit, is the one comprising the hardy species of the Rose order. This includes, of course, besides the Roses, such trees and shrubs as the Thorns, Crabs, and Cotoneasters. Among the the Thorns (Crategus) are many very handsome sorts giving variety in size and colour of the fruits. It is unfortunate that many of them fall early and get spoilt by birds. At the same time birds add so greatly to the delight of the garden that we may well overlook their depredations. By many, indeed, these fruiting trees will be considered worth growing for the encouragement they give to bird-life. It may be well to remind planters that a considerable number of these fruiting trees and shrubs bear male flowers on one plant, female on another. People are often at a loss to understand why their Sea Buckthorns or Aucubas or Skimmias do not fruit, when the simple reason is that the plants are all male (or pollen- bearing), or that the female ones have no males to fertilise them. As a general rule, if these shrubs are grouped, one male to eight or ten females is a proper proportion. As plants raised from seeds come in about equal proportions of both 69 70 TREES AND SHRUBS sexes, it is necessary to select the females and keep just sufficient males to pollenise them, in order that the full beauty of the species as a fruit-bearer may be obtained. With Skimmias and Aucubas the proper proportions can be obtained by means of cuttings. The following hardy trees and shrubs are the most conspicuous for the beauty of their fruits :— ARBUTUS UNEDO.—A native of Western Ireland, has strawberry-like fruits of a bright-scarlet colour. AILANTUS GLANDULOSA, a fine tree over 50 feet high, is very beautiful when covered with its red and yellow-winged fruits; there are male and female plants. AUCUBAS, grown at first for their ornamental foliage merely, have latterly come into prominence as fruit-bearers; the female plants bear clusters of bright-red berries which remain long on the branches and are very attractive in winter. BERBERIS.— The fruits of the Berberries are mostly covered with a plum-coloured bloom as in B. Aquifolium and B. Darwin, but none of them is handsomer than our native B. vulgaris and its varieties. These have pendent racemes of fruits, varying in colour from the typical orange scarlet to white, purple, and black. 2B. Thunbergi coral-red, very beautiful. CRAT&GuUS.—The finest of all the Thorns is C. Pyracantha, well named by the French “ Buisson ardent.” This shrub or small tree is valuable as a graceful evergreen, and when clothed (as it nearly TREES WITH FINE FRUITS 71 always is in autumn) with its brilliant clusters of orange-red haws, it is one of the most beautiful objects in the garden. It is quite hardy in the open, but bears fruits more abundantly when planted against a wall. In that position also it is more easily protected from birds, which soon destroy the beauty of plants in the open. The Cockspur Thorn (C. Crus Gall) has several varieties, all producing pendent clusters of scarlet haws. The varieties like pyracanthifolia, with narrow leaves and flat-topped habit, are the best in this respect ; they retain the fruits well into the winter, and are not eaten by birds so freely as many are. The haws of C. cordata, the Washington Thorn, are small, but a brilliant orange. C. punctata, C. Azarolus, and C, pinnatifida have the largest haws of any, and they are of a deep red, but fall early; the two first, however, are variable, and forms with yellow and other coloured haws belong to them. Those of C. macracantha are bright red, and in favour- able years are so plentiful as to make the tree wondrously beautiful. C. coccinea and C. mollis have also red haws, larger than those of C. macracantha, but they fall soon after they are ripe. The Common Hawthorn is pretty, but more noteworthy is its variety aurea, with bright-yellow haws. In C. oliveriana they are black. The Tansy-leaved Thorn (C. tanacetifoha) has large yellow fruits, not badly flavoured, and with the fragrance of Apples. C. orientalis has haws of a bright sealing-wax red, but in its variety sanguinea they are of a deeper shade. 72 TREES AND SHRUBS COTONEASTERS. — Not enough use is made of Cotoneasters in gardens. They grow well in almost any soil, and are all marked by elegant or neat habit. They are very pretty when in flower, but it is in autumn, when laden with fruits, that they attain their greatest beauty. One of the tallest of them is C. frigida, and this bears a great abundance of rich scarlet-red berries in flat clusters. In the nearly allied C. bacillaris they are almost black. C. votun- difolia is a dwarfer shrub, but the finest of all the Cotoneasters for its fruit; it grows about 4 feet high, and has small, very dark green, persistent leaves ; the fruits are about the size and shape of the haws of the Common Hawthorn, and are bril- liant scarlet red; they are ripe in October, and from then till March make one of the most beautiful of winter pictures. In C. duxifolia the fruit is very abundant, but the red colour is not so bright as in the preceding. C. horizontalis, now getting to be a well-known shrub, has very pretty, globose, bright- red fruits, small but freely borne. C. Simonsz, of medium height, has brilliant red berries, as has C. acuminata, a near ally, but taller. The dwarfest section of Cotoneaster, viz., thymifolia, microphylla and its variety glacialis (or congesta), which are so useful for rockeries, have all scarlet berries. CELASTRUS ARTICULATUS is a vigorous climber from Eastern Asia, remarkable for the great beauty of its fruits, which are golden yellow within, and when ripe split open and reveal the shining scarlet- coated seeds. C. scandens has orange-coloured seeds. TREES WITH FINE FRUITS 73 CORIARIA JAPONICA is very beautiful in autumn, when it succeeds as well as it does with Canon Ella- combe at Bitton, the fruits being covered then with the persistent petals which are of a lovely coral red. CORNUS CAPITATA (Benthamia fragifera) only suc- ceeds to perfection in the south-western counties ; its strawberry-like red fruits are very handsome. COPROSMA ACEROSA is a dwarf New Zealand shrub suitable for the rockery; it has variously-shaded, transparent, blue-green berries. ELZAGNUS MULTIFLORA (or E. Jongipes) is the most ornamental in the genus with regard to its fruits. They are remarkably abundant, orange-coloured, and specked with reddish scales. EUONYMUS EUROPAUS, our native “Spindle tree,” is most beautiful in autumn, when, after a favourable season, it is covered with its open red fruits revealing the orange-coloured seeds within. FRAXINUS MARIESII is one of Messrs. Veitch’s in- troductions from Japan, and is a dwarf tree, one of the “Manna” Ashes ; the thin keys are of a bronzy- red colour and pretty. GLEDITSCHIA TRIACANTHOS is the “ Honey Locust.” The pods are not brightly coloured, being at first green, then brown, but they are long, thin, and wavy, like crooked scimitars, and hanging in numbers on the tree ; have a very curious and (in this country) uncommon aspect. HEDERA (Ivy).—Some of the “tree” forms of Ivy produce berries freely ; the most ornamental of them 74 TREES AND SHRUBS are the red, yellow, and orange-coloured varieties of Hi. Helix arborescens. HYMENANTHERA CRASSIFOLIA, from New Zealand, is a dense-growing, stiff-branched, dwarf shrub, chiefly noteworthy for the white berries it bears. HYPERICUMS.—H. Androsemum and H. elatum pro- duce rather handsome clusters of black fruits. HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES, the Sea Buckthorn, is one of the most brilliantly coloured of all berry-bearing shrubs. It produces them in marvellous profusion, and they are bright-orange coloured. Birds do not molest the berries, and unless caught by severe frosts (which turn them grey) they lighten the garden wonderfully up to, and sometimes after, the New Year. The necessity of growing both sexes of plants has already been noted, but isolated females may be artificially impregnated by shaking pollen over them when in flower. ILEX (Holly)—The berries of the Holly are so well known that we need only mention the yellow- berried one (/fructu-luteo), which is not common, but very effective in winter. LicgustruM.—The Privets are of little consequence as fruit-bearing shrubs, and only L. senense need be mentioned; it is frequently very striking in early winter, being covered then with great clusters of purple-black, shot-like berries. LyYcIUM CHINENSE.—Nearly all the Box Thorns in this country belong to this species. As for L. europeum and L. barbarum, the names are very common, but the plants themselves very rare. L. chinense is very TREES WITH FINE FRUITS 75 ornamental in the fall of the year, its long graceful branches being well furnished with rich red berries. L. rhombifolium is one of its forms. MAGNOLIA TRIPETALA is often very striking in the fall of the year because of its large upright fruits of a reddish-purple colour. MACLURA AURANTIACA, the “ Osage Orange,” bears a remarkable orange-coloured fruit 2 to 3 inches in diameter. The tree is quite hardy, but we have not heard of its bearing fruit in this country. This is perhaps because male and female flowers occur on different plants. PERNETTYA MUCRONATA.—First among ericaceous plants for beauty in fruit is this Magellanic plant and its varieties. It is dwarf and bushy, with small white flowers followed by enormous quantities of berries about the size of peas. These vary in colour from white to deep crimson, and are undoubtedly some of the most valuable of all hardy berry-bearing shrubs. PALIURUS AUSTRALIS (Christ’s Thorn) has flat, disk-like fruits, freely borne in suitable years; they are green, and if not particularly ornamental, are very quaint and interesting. PTELEA TRIFOLIATA.—The same may be said of the abundant clusters of hop-like fruits seen in this tree. Pyrus.—In this genus, which includes the Mountain Ash, the Crabs, and the White Beam trees, there is a great wealth of beautiful fruiting trees. The Mountain Ash or Rowan tree (P- Aucuparia), 76 TREES AND SHRUBS when laden with its hanging corymbs of rich scarlet berries is a delightful picture, and it reaches its full beauty in August. Not so well known is the variety Sructu-luteo, with yellow fruits. A near relative of the Rowan tree is P. americana, its New World re- presentative, but it is not so beautiful. The fruit is almost identical, but the tree is of a stiff and less graceful aspect. The new P. ¢hianschanica, which also belongs to the Rowan tree group, has bright- red, globose berries. Perhaps of all the genus Pyrus, none on the whole are so beautiful in autumn as the Crabs, P. daccata, the Siberian Crab, with its bright-red, cherry-like fruits, and P. Ringo from Japan, with bright-yellow ones, are the best of the true species. The hybrid “John Downie” Crab is also very beautiful in autumn. The flowering QUINCES are not particularly at- tractive in regard to the colour of their fruits, but some of them—notably those of the dwarf Pyrus Maulei—are very sweetly scented. Some very handsome fruits are borne by the various White Beam trees (Pyrus Aria and its allies). Perhaps the best of them is P-. Janata (or Sorbus majestica), which has flat clusters of bright-red berries. But many of the varieties of P. Avia itself are very attractive. One of the latest additions to this group is P. alnifoha, a neat-habited small tree from Japan and China. It has oblong coral-red fruits. Rosa.— Beauty at fruiting time is an almost proverbial attribute of the Roses. None is more TREES WITH FINE FRUITS 77 beautiful than our native Dog Rose (R. canina). Though in many an English hedgerow, an out- of-the-way corner in many a garden might be given up to the Dog Rose and its varieties for the sake of their wealth of scarlet hips in autumn. R. tomentosa and R. mollis are other red-fruited natives of Britain. All the members of the Scotch Rose group (pimpinellifoha) have black fruits. Of exotic species, one of the most valuable is R. rugosa, its flat, orange-shaped hips are so abundant and brightly coloured that they make a brilliant picture. R. micro- phylla has yellow prickly fruits, whilst those of R. macrophylla are pear-shaped and scarlet. The deep- crimson hips of R. pomifera, covered with bristly hairs like large gooseberries, are as remarkable as any. Some of the American species, although the fruits are usually small, are handsome, such as R. nutkana and R. carolina. The elongated, pear-shaped fruits of R. alpina and its variety pyrenaica are bright red, and have a pleasant, resinous odour when rubbed. RHAPHITHAMNUS CYANOCARPUS can only be grown outside against a wall, or in Cornwall or similar localities, but where it will succeed it is well worth growing, not only for its pale-blue flowers, but for the bright-blue fruits that follow them. Some of the RHAMNUS, such as the native R. catharticus and R. Frangula, bear abundant crops of purple-black berries. The dense pyramidal fruit-clusters of the Stag- horn Sumach (Rhus typhina) are often attractive, 78 TREES AND SHRUBS being covered with crimson hairs. Those of R. glabra are similarly coloured. RUBUS PHCNICOLASIUS has spread in cultivation recently, and has beautiful scarlet berries. It is hardy enough, but birds are so attracted by the bright colour, that it requires protection from them when in fruit. SamMBuCUS.—The scarlet-berried Elder, S. race- mosus, is by far the handsomest of the genus, but although it flowers freely enough, it is very uncertain in producing its fruits. S. glauca, from the West United States, produces large, flat clusters of blue-white berries, and there is a striking white-fruited variety of S. nigra called leucocarpa. THE SNOWBERRY (Symphoricarpus racemosus) should always have a place in the garden for the sake of its clusters of large pure white berries, which remain long on the plants. VIBURNUM.—There are several very handsome fruiting species in this genus, no finer, however, than the native V. Opulus, or Guelder Rose, with red fruits, and its variety /ructu-luteo with yellow ones. In the other native species, V. Lantana, they are at first red, ultimately black. Several of the Viburnums are noteworthy for the blue or blue-black fruits ; of these are dentatum, molle, cassinoides, and nudum. Those of the evergreen VY. Tinus are also dark blue, but, as with the other blue-fruited species, they are not frequently borne in profusion in the average climate of Britain. TREES WITH FINE FRUITS 79 VITIS HETEROPHYLLA and its variety humulifolia, bear singularly beautiful clusters of pale china-blue berries. To induce them to fruit freely, however, the plants require a warm, sunny wall, and rather restricted root-room. WEEPING TREES AND THEIR USES IT is not at all easy to define special uses for trees of weeping habit, but it is safe to use them nearly singly and not in immediate connexion with trees of quite upright form. The point in the weeping tree is a certain grace of drooping line, such as one enjoys in the drooping racemes of many of the papilionaceous flowers such as Wistaria, Laburnum, and Robinia. Nothing is gained by accentuating the peculiarity by a direct association with trees of an opposite way of growth. It is better rather to place the weeping trees near rounded masses of shrub and small tree—for example, a Weeping Birch would group well with a clump of Rhododendrons. Near water weeping trees seem to be specially effective. An instance of this is shown in the familiar Weeping Willow, but one at a time seems as much as is wanted. As a general rule, we strongly advocate planting in groups, whether in the case of trees, shrubs, or flowering plants, but the weeping trees are less suited for grouping than any others. One Weeping Willow is all very well, but a whole grove of them would be monotonous and tiresome. The habit of some of the weeping trees can be directly turned to account in the making of arbours 80 ‘(may) ACISUTLFM AGT MOTTIIAL NFINOTAGIF a WEEPING ASH; PALACE GARDENS, DALKEITH. WEEPING TREES AND THEIR USES 81 and pergolas; for by planting the large-leaved Weeping Elm or the Weeping Ash at the back and on each side in the case of an arbour, or alternately on each side of the walk for a pergola, a living shelter may be made in a very few years. The trees in this case are standards pollarded at about 8 feet from the ground, the form in which they are generally sent out from the nursery. (i.) NaturaLLy PENDULOUS SPECIES AND VARIETIES, ze. Cominc TRUE FROM SEED Asterisk denotes those to choose first. Tilia (Lime or Linden) petiolaris. Genista zthnensis (shrubby). * Prunus pendula (Weeping Japanese Cherry). Forsythia suspensa (shrubby). * Salix (Willow) alba czrulea pendula. A PA vitellina pendula. te Ue 5 babylonica. a 4 i annularis. ‘5 a is Salamoni. i re elegantissima. (ii.) PENDULOUS VARIETIES THAT HAVE ORIGINATED AS ‘‘SPORTS,” PROPAGATED BY GRAFTS, CUTTINGS, OR LavERS * Tlex (Holly) Aquifolium (green and variegated). Acer (Maple) Negundo pendula. Rhus Cotinus pendula. Laburnum vulgare pendulum (Weeping Laburnum). Cytisus scoparius pendulus. Caragana (Pea tree) arborescens pendula. Sophora japonica pendula. 82 TREES AND SHRUBS * Prunus Amygdalus pendula (Weeping Almond). * 4, Avium pendula (Weeping Wild Cherry). », acida semperflorens. * ,,.. Mahaleb pendula (Weeping Mahaleb Cherry). » Padus pendula (Weeping Bird Cherry). * Crateegus Oxycantha (Hawthorn), red and white flowered. Sambucus nigra pendula (Weeping Elder). * Fraxinus excelsior pendula (Weeping Ash). aurea (golden-leaved) pendula. Fr ‘s pendula wentworthii. 3 parviflora pendula, Ulmus (Elm) americana pendula. a »» campestris pendula. antarctica pendula. Pr 5 5 suberosa pendula. fulva pendula. re », montana pendula. - 3 49 Pitteursii pendula. Zelkowa crenata pendula. Morus (Mulberry) alba pendula. * Betula (Birch) alba pendula. - » Youngi. ne 95 »» purpurea pendula. Alnus (Alder) incana pendula. Carpinus (Hornbeam) Betulus pendula. Coryllus Avellana (Common Hazel) pendula. Quercus (Oak) pedunculata pendula. 3 » rubra pendula. * Fagus (Beech) sylvatica pendula. ” 99 ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” miltonensis. ” ” ” remillyensis. * Salix (Willow) Caprea pendula. Pi ” purpurea pendula. r i » Scharfenbergensis. ” ” repens argentea. * Populus tremula (Aspen) pendula. i » tremuloides pendula. ‘UAMOTA NI N9dS¥ ONIGTIM ‘NALPT NO WITY DNIdaqAAL WEEPING TREES AND THEIR USES (iii.) ConiFERS Cupressus lawsoniana glauca pendula. 3 5 gracilis pendula. a ij pendula vera. ee 95 gracillima. i nootkatensis pendula. Cedrus atlantica pendula. Gingko biloba pendula. Juniperus (Juniper) virginiana pendula. Larix. europzea (Common Larch) pendula. Thuya orientalis pendula. » flagelliformis. Taxodium distichum (Deciduous Cypress) pendulum. Tsuga canadensis pendula. Taxus (Yew) baccata pendula. o ss » gracilis pendula. 83 »” ” » Dovastoni. There is a fine specimen of this in Barron’s nursery at Bor- rowash. THE USE OF VARIEGATED TREES AND SHRUBS THE best use of trees and shrubs with coloured or variegated foliage is not very easy to determine, though it may be possible to give a few useful suggestions. The usual way of planting them here) and there among mixed masses of evergreen and deciduous growths is perhaps the worst way of all. All good planting must be done with much thought and care, and these plants of coloured foliage, that are necessarily more conspicuous than others, want the most careful placing of any. One excellent use of evergreen trees and shrubs with golden colouring, such as the Gold Hollies, Cypresses, Yews, and Privets is to make them into a cheerful bit of outdoor winter garden. The Gold- leaved Privet is a delightful thing in early winter, and though Wild Privet, untouched by the knife, is a deciduous shrub, the clipped Privets of our gardens usually hold their leaves throughout the winter. With these the variegated Japan Honeysuckle might be freely used, much of its yellow veining turning to a bright red in winter. Cassinia fulvida is another good winter shrub with its tiny gold-backed leaves. The pretty bushes of this neat New Zealander are 84 THE USE OF VARIEGATED TREES 85 apt to grow somewhat straggling, but the crowded little branches are the very thing that is wanted through the winter as cut greenery to go with winter flowers, whether hardy or from under glass. If these are cut a foot long the bush is kept in shape, and a valuable supply of stuff for house decoration is provided. A half or even quarter acre of well-arranged planting of these gold-variegated shrubs has a sur- prisingly cheery effect in winter, making a kind of sunlight of its own when skies are grey, and a com- fortable shelter when winds are keen. In summer, too, it will be beautiful if the spaces between the shrubs are cleverly planted, for pre- ference, with plants of white or pale-yellow flowers, such as White Foxglove, Gxothera lamarckiana, white and pale-yellow Hibiscus ficifolius, Liliums auratum, giganteum, speciosum, and longifolium ; White Everlast- ing Pea trained loosely through any near branches ; Nicotiana affnis and N. sylvestris; and close to the path hardy Ferns of pale-green frondage, such as the Lady Fern; with clumps of plants of golden foliage like the Gold Valerian and Gold Nettle. A shrub of variegated foliage, planted without special attention, and coming suddenly in a grouping of others of an average green colour is made unduly conspicuous. It should be led up to by neighbours whose colouring gradually assimilates with its own. The sudden effect of colouring is all very well in the nurseryman’s show borders, where the object is to attract attention to showy individuals, but in 86 TREES AND SHRUBS our gardens we want the effect of well-arranged pictures rather than that of shop windows. A variegated plant to be of real value in the garden must have clear, bright, and abundant red and yellow or white markings, not dotted or merely margined with colour. So many worthless shrubs with poor variegation have been named and offered for sale that it is unwise to buy them from a catalogue. We may repeat the advice already given, which is to see them first. Trees and shrubs with coloured foliage are of several kinds. Most common of all are those which have leaves blotched or edged with golden or creamy yellow and white, such as the variegated Hollies and Elzagnuses. Then there are those which are only coloured at a certain season, like Neha opulifola aurea. This has leaves of a beautiful self yellow colour when they unfold in spring, but become green as the summer advances; or the variegated Plane (Platanus acerifolia Sittneri), which is only variegated in late summer and autumn. Finally, there are those, like the Purple Hazel or Purple Beech, which have leaves of one colour and remain almost of the same shade whilst they are on the tree. On the whole the plants that retain their colour till late summer and autumn, or acquire it then, are most valuable, because very few trees and shrubs are then in flower. Variegated trees and shrubs must not be planted too plentifully, and studiously avoid all spotty effects. THE USE OF VARIEGATED TREES 87 Many a garden would be improved by bringing the variegated shrubs it contains together so as to pro- duce a few broad masses of colour. Some of these shrubs, like Spath’s Cornel, or the Golden Elder, may, in large gardens especially, be planted alone in large beds or groups. The large trees, like the Purple Beech, can stand by themselves. The following list contains one hundred of the finest of variegated trees and shrubs :— TREES Acer Negundo variegatum, creamy white. »» Negundo aureum, golden entirely. », Platanoides Schwedleri, soft red in spring. Pseudo-platanus flavo-marginatum, the “ Corstorphine” Sycamore, one of the largest of variegated trees. Alnus glutinosa aurea, wholly yellow. Betula alba purpurea, wholly purple. Castanea sativa aureo-marginata, the variegated Sweet Chest- nut, perhaps the best of all large trees, with parti-coloured leaves. Catalpa bignonioides aurea, wholly golden, and most effective in summer and autumn. Fagus sylvatica purpurea. Of the Purple Beeches there are now numerous forms, such as atropurpurea, cuprea, purpurea, pendula (weeping), and “Swat Magret” (the darkest of all). sylvatica variegata, white. sylvatica tricolor, various shades of red and purple ; beautifully coloured, but not vigorous. sylvatica var. Zlatia, entirely pale golden green in spring, but for a short time only. Fraxinus americana aucubzefolia, richly mottled with yellow. Ilex Aquifolium. The variegated Hollies, both silver and ”» ” ” bs 88 TREES AND SHRUBS golden, are now very numerous; among the best are argentea marginata, argentea pendula, Golden Queen, Silver Queen, Golden King, flavescens, latifolia aureo- marginata, maderensis variegata, Watereriana, aureo- medio picta, aureo-pendula, handsworthensis. Laburnum vulgare foliis aureis, all yellow. Platanus acerifolia Stittneri, very pure white with scarcely any green on late growth. Populus deltoidea aurea, all yellow. Prunus cerasifera atropurpurea (P. Pissardi), lovely claret red when young, becoming dull purple in summer. Pyrus Malus neidwetzkyanus. In this Apple not only the leaves, but the wood and fruit are purplish red. », Aria chrysophylla, yellow. Quercus Cerris variegata, the white variegated Turkey Oak. 1» pedunculata Concordia, a lovely clear yellow, but apt to burn. i pedunculata purpurea, wholly red purple. $5 rubra, crimson. Robinia Pseudacacia aurea, yellow. Ulmus campestris, ‘ Louis Van Houtte,” the best Golden Elm. »» campestris viminalis variegata, a charming white-varie- gated, small-leaved Elm. CONIFERS Abies concolor violacea, glaucous blue. Cedrus atlantica glauca, glaucous blue. Cupressus lawsoniana; numerous varieties, of which gracilis pendula aurea, lutea (very hardy), Silver Queen, and albo-variegata may be mentioned. mr nootkatensis lutea, yellow-tipped twigs. ‘5 obtusa aurea, yellow. 5 obtusa nana aurea, dwarf yellow. % pisifera plumosa aurea, yellow. + macrocarpa lutea, the best yellow Conifer in mild districts. EL:EAGNUS PUNGENS (Kew). ‘(pU409 pov5aw A) VPLPOTIMFA UFA SFI SANYOO THE USE OF VARIEGATED TREES 89 Juniperus chinensis aurea, gold-tipped. Picea orientalis argenteo-spica, young shoots pale yellow. »» pungens glauca, the best “blue” Conifer. Pinus sylvestris aurea, golden in winter, green in spring and summer. Taxus baccata aurea, “Golden Yew”; a Barronii. », baccata fastigiata aurea, ‘Golden Irish Yew.” 1», baccata semper-aurea, golden more or less throughout the winter. Thuya (Biota) orientalis aurea, yellow in summer. SHRUBS OR SMALL TREES Acer palmatum atropurpureum, purple. There are many forms of this Japanese Maple—cut-leaved, purple, and golden— but this is the hardiest. Aralia chinensis albo-variegata. This is one of the most promis- ing new variegated shrubs. It is sold as Dimorphanthus mandschuricus var. variegatus. Atriplex Halimus, silvery grey entirely. Aucuba japonica, many forms, yellow or creamy white. Berberis vulgaris foliis purpureis, one of the best purple shrubs. Buxus sempervirens aurea, ‘‘Golden Box.” Corylus maxima atropurpurea, a dark-purple, very effective variety of the Cob-nut. Cornus Mas aurea elegantissima, yellow. » Mas variegata, white. Elzagnus pungens aurea, one of the most beautiful variegated evergreens. - pungens variegata, white. Euonymus japonicus albo-marginatus, very good for the south coast. "3 japonicus ovatus aureus, same as preceding, but yellow. Ligustrum (Privet) ovalifolium foliis aureis, the best variegated shrub for hedges and for rough usage. Neillia opulifolia lutea, yellow in spring only. go TREES AND SHRUBS Philadelphus coronarius foliis aureis, yellow in the spring and early summer and very bright then, gradually gets green afterwards. Ptelea trifoliata aurea, yellow. Rhamnus Alaternus variegatus, white. Rhus Cotinus atropurpureus, purple. Symphoricarpus orbiculatus variegatus, yellow. Sambucus nigra foliis aureis, yellow, retaining its colour well till autumn. racemosa plumosa aurea, a beautiful cut-leaved Golden Elder. ” Dwarr SHRUBS AND CLIMBERS Acanthopanax spinosum variegatum, pretty, white-variegated, dwarf, and slow-growing., Arundinaria auricoma, the best yellow-variegated hardy Bamboo. Fortunei, the best white-variegated hardy Bamboo. Cornus alba Spaethii, probably the finest of all yellow-varie- gated dwarf shrubs, never ‘“‘scorching” in the hottest summers. Euonymus radicans, the white-variegated form of this plant is useful as a carpet in shady positions where grass will not grow. Hedera Helix (Ivy), numerous varieties, both shrubby and climbing—arborescens variegata, chrysophylla, discolor, maderensis variegata, sulphurea, canariensis argentea. Jasminum nudiflorum foliis aureis and officinale foliis aureis, variegated climbers with yellow leaves ; the latter is the more ornamental, but is delicate in constitution. Kerria japonica foliis variegatis, white. Lonicera japonica aureo-reticulata. The veins of this climber are beautifully “picked out” in gold. Osmanthus Aquifolium ilicifolius variegatus, a holly-like, white-variegated shrub useful in the milder parts of the kingdom. ” ” THE USE OF VARIEGATED TREES 91 Osmanthus Aquifolium purpureus, the hardiest of the Osmanthus. Pieris japonica variegata, white. Ribes alpinum pumilum aureum, golden in spring. Rubus ulmifolius variegatus, veins of the later leaves golden. Salix repens argentea, a prostate silvery-leaved Willow, makes a pretty weeping shrub if trained up at first. Santolina Chameecyparissus, silvery white entirely. Vitis heterophylla variegata, a pretty, blue-berried climber, but tender ; the variegation is rosy white. »» inconstans purpurea, a purplish form of the popular “ Ampelopsis Veitchii.” » vinifera purpurea, deep purple. Vinca minor, white and yellow-marked forms. TREES AND SHRUBS FOR SEA-COAST In planting trees and shrubs near the sea, two im- portant matters must be considered—(1) fierce gales; (2) salt spray. As a protection against storms much may be done by planting quick-growing things, such as Poplars and Willows, and in this sheltered area more permanent trees and shrubs may be put. This way of planting for shelter where bleak places are to be clothed with trees and shrubs is universally adopted in some form or other, sometimes in the shape of hedges or belts, and in the other cases the plants are all placed much thicker together than they are to permanently remain, thus forming a compact mass against which the wind makes little or no impression. In this last-named case continual thinning will be necessary as they. grow up, for if left too long the plants become weak, and the advantage gained by the thicker planting is then completely lost. A beautiful seaside shrub, and the best, too, for forming shelter hedges of low or medium height is the Tamarisk, which retains its freshness throughout the season till the autumn, however much exposed to the sea. It is difficult to make a list of trees and shrubs suitable for seaside planting around the British Isles, as the coast-line is so varied, and the action 92 TREES FOR SEA-COAST 93 of the Gulf Stream has great influence on the vegetation of many parts of our western coasts. As no hard and fast line can be drawn, the first list contains those trees and shrubs that may be regarded as thoroughly hardy, unless otherwise specified, and the second list those that are avail- able for planting in the Isle of Wight, in the south and west of England, and in some parts of Ireland. TREES Acer platanoides (Norway Maple). », Pseudo-platanus (Sycamore). Alnus (Alder) of sorts. Will thrive only in damp places. Ash, Mountain. Betula alba (Birch) and varieties. Carpinus Betulus (Hornbeam). Cerasus (Cherry), particularly C. Avium and C. Mahaleb. Cratzgus (Thorn) of sorts. Cupressus macrocarpa (Monterey Cypress). Of rapid growth. Fagus sylvatica (Beech) and varieties. Fraxinus excelsior (Common Ash). F. Ornus (Flowering Ash). Tlex Aquifolium (Holly) and varieties. Laburnum. Pinus austriaca (Austrian Pine). One of the best Firs for bleak seaside places. », contorta (Twisted Pine). A small tree. » insignis (Grass-green Pine). More tender than the others. », Laricio (Corsican Pine). Equal to the Austrian Pine for seaside. 5 Muricata (Prickly-coned Pine). A dwarf tree. », Pinaster (Cluster Pine). Delights in the neighbour- hood of the sea. » montana (Mountain Pine). A shrub or small tree. 94 TREES AND SHRUBS Populus alba (Abele or White Poplar). All the Poplars grow quickly. deltoidea (Canadian Poplar). fastigiata (Lombardy Poplar). » higra (Black Poplar). Prunus cerasifera (Cherry Plum). » Padus (Bird Cherry). », Pissardi (Purple-leaved Plum). Pyrus Aria (White Beam tree). Aucuparia (Mountain Ash). » prunifolia (Siberian Crab). »» Sorbus (Service tree). Quercus Cerris (Turkey Oak). Good loam suits this best. » Ilex (Evergreen or Holm Oak). Salix (Willow) of sorts. Prefer a moist soil. Ulmus (Elm) of sorts, particularly Wych Elm. ” ” SHRUBS Atriplex Halimus (Sea Purslane). Will grow close to the water. Aucuba japonica (Aucuba). Few evergreens equal this. Berberis (Barberry), Aquifolium, Darwinii, dulcis, and steno- phylla. Buxus (Box) and its varieties. Cerasus Laurocerasus (Common Laurel) and C. lusitanica (Portugal Laurel). Cistus Gum. Does well at Felixstowe, Suffolk. Colutea arborescens (Bladder Senna). Will grow in very sandy soil, Corylus Avellana (Hazel) and varieties. Cotoneaster of sorts. All these are good for the purpose. Cytisus (Broom) of sorts. Daphne Laureola (Spurge Laurel). Will grow in shade. Deutzia crenata, D. crenata flore-pleno, D. gracilis, D. Lemoinei. Elzagnus of sorts. All of these are good. ‘UTALOTA NI ‘(vipuvsje, viapunl) MSIMPIVPL NFIMOPL TREES FOR SEA-COAST 95 Euonymus europzus and E. latifolius (Spindle trees), and the evergreen E. japonicus and its varieties. This last is one of the most valuable evergreens, but it is rather tender. Ficus Carica (Common Fig). Forsythia suspensa. A charming rambling shrub. Halimodendron argenteum (Siberian Salt tree). Hippophe rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn). The finest seaside shrub or small tree that we have; grows well in damp sands. Leycesteria formosa. Ligustrum (Privet) of sorts. Lycium barbarum, L. europzeum (Box Thorn). Olearia Haastii (Daisy bush). Osmanthus ilicifolius and varieties. Philadelphus (Mock Orange) of sorts. Phillyrzea angustifolia, latifolia, media, and vilmoriniana. Prunus spinosa flore-pleno (Double-flowered Sloe). Pyrus japonica (Japan Quince). Ribes aureum (Golden-flowered Currant). » sanguineum (Flowering Currant) and varieties. Rosa. The different wild Roses and Rosa rugosa. Rubus (Bramble). The double-flowered and cut-leaved forms are very ornamental. Salix (Willow) of sorts. All prefer moist soil. Sambucus (Elder) of sorts. Skimmia japonica. Valuable for its bright-red berries. Spartium junceum (Spanish Broom). Will grow almost any- where. Spirza of sorts. There is a great variety of these beautiful flowering shrubs. Symphoricarpus racemosus (Snowberry). Syringa (Lilac) of sorts. Tamarix gallica and T. tetrandra. Delightful shrubs for sea- side. Ulex europzus (Furze or Gorse), with the double-flowered and dwarf kinds. 96 TREES AND SHRUBS Viburnum Opulus and V. Opulus sterile (Snowball tree). Weigelas of sorts, particularly Abel Carriere, candida, and Eva Rathke. For the west of England and other very mild districts the following may be added :— Arbutus Unedo (Strawberry tree). Aralia Sieboldii. Azara microphylla. Benthamia fragifera. Buddleia globosa. Ceanothus of sorts. Choisya ternata. Desfontainea spinosa. Escallonias of sorts. Fabiana imbricata. Fuchsias, hardy kinds. Garrya elliptica. Griselinia littoralis. Grevillea rosmarinifolia, G. sulphurea. Hydrangea Hortensia. Laurus nobilis (Sweet Bay). Myrtus communis (Myrtle). Pittosporum crassifolium. Rhamnus Alaternus and varieties. Veronicas of sorts. Viburnum Tinus (Laurustinus). TREES AND SHRUBS FOR WIND-SWEPT GARDENS FEW trees and shrubs are happy in bleak and ex- posed gardens. The hardiest should be used to form a shelter belt, as every leaf and twig helps to break the force of the wind, whereas solid obstacles, such as walls, merely serve to divert its course. In plant- ing spots much exposed to the wind, put the trees much closer than it is intended they should remain permanently, as the young plants serve to shelter one another, and encourage, therefore, a quicker growth. When they get crowded, gradually thin them out. The trees and shrubs should always come from exposed nurseries, as the growth is stout and sturdy. Growth made in warm valleys is more sappy. The following trees and shrubs can be depended upon in most windy places :— TREES Acer platanoides (Norway Maple) and Acer Pseudo-platanus (Sycamore). While not equal to some of the trees men- tioned, these Maples do well in many places and form a distinct feature. Betula alba (Common Birch). An extremely graceful tree and a universal favourite. Crateegus Oxyacantha (Hawthorn). The principal effect of 97 G 98 TREES AND SHRUBS exposure is to make the growth more stunted than would otherwise be the case. Fagus sylvatica (Beech). Long recognised as a good shelter tree, its value in this respect is increased by the fact that many leaves often shrivel on the branches instead of dropping, thus giving additional protection in winter. Fraxinus excelsior (Ash). The wide-spreading roots of this anchor it securely in position, and the leaves do not weigh down the branches to any great extent. Ilex Aquifolium (Holly). Though of slow growth when young, this, when once established, grows away freely and is indifferent to wind. Larix europza (Larch). This is well known as a nurse tree for bleak places. Picea (Abies) excelsa (Norway Spruce). One of our com- monest Conifers, hence it is often used as a nurse tree for choicer subjects. Pinus austriaca (Austrian Fir). The best of all evergreens for bleak places; Pinus Cembra (Swiss Stone Pine), of slow growth, but very ornamental, and does not mind the wind. Pinus Laricio (Corsican Pine, or Black Pine). As indifferent to exposure as P. austriaca, P. montana (dwarf), and P. sylvestris (Scotch Fir), a well-known native, which often crowns high hill-tops. Populus alba (Abele), P. fastigiata (Lombardy Poplar), P. deltoidea (Canadian Poplar), P. nigra (Black Poplar), and P. tremula (Aspen). In low-lying districts all these Poplars are of rapid growth, but in exposed places they make much slower progress. Even then they grow quicker than most shelter plants, and are valuable for making an effective display more quickly than some of the more permanent subjects. These can all be readily cut back within reasonable limits if desired. Quercus Robur (Oak). Robinia Pseudacacia. The false Acacia is one of the best swe F vospnif THE LOMBARDY POPLAR. TREES FOR WIND-SWEPT GARDENS 99 town trees we have; indeed, it does well almost every- where. Salix alba (White Willow). This will pass unscathed through fierce storms. In fairly dry spots the rate of progress is much slower than in moister soil, but, as a set-off, the silvery hue of the foliage is more pronounced. Ulmus (Elm). The best of the Elms for this purpose is the Wych Elm. SHRUBS Atriplex Halimus (Sea Purslane). A silvery-leaved, free-grow- ing shrub, indifferent to soil or situation. Berberis (the Barberry). The best of these are the strong- growing Berberis aristata, and the common Berberis vulgaris, with its several varieties. Cerasus Laurocerasus rotundifolia. One of the hardiest forms of our Common Laurel. Colutea arborescens (Bladder Senna). The golden flowers in early summer and the large inflated seed-pods in autumn are both attractive. Cotoneaster buxifolia, Nummularia, and Simonsii. These are all pretty berry-bearing shrubs. Cytisus albus (White Broom), Cytisus scoparius (Yellow Broom), and its varieties. Deutzia crenata flore-pleno. A handsome flowering shrub and the most robust of its class. Euonymus europeus (Spindle tree). The fruits of this are very ornamental in the autumn. Halimodendron argenteum (Siberian Salt Bush). A pretty rambling shrub, with silvery leaves. Juniperus communis and J. Sabina (Savin). The fact that these Junipers are evergreen is a point in their favour. Ligustrum ovalifolium, ovalifolium elegantissimum, and vul- gare. These Privets are well known for planting where the conditions are none too favourable. Lycium europeum (Box Thorn). A rambling shrub holding its own almost anywhere. 100 TREES AND SHRUBS Osmanthus of sorts. Holly-like evergreen shrubs. Philadelphus coronarius (Mock Orange). Though less showy than some others, this is decidedly the hardiest. Phillyrzea vilmoriniana. A valuable evergreen with deep-green, leathery leaves. Pinus (Mountain Pine). This member of the Fir family is but a shrub in stature. It is at home in bleak spots. Potentilla fruticosa (Shrubby Cinquefoil). A low shrub that produces its golden blossoms in July and August. Rosa canina (Dog Rose) and Rosa rubiginosa (Sweetbriar) are general favourites. Rubus (Bramble). The cut-leaved, the double white, and double pink are ornamental. Spartium junceum (Spanish Broom). However bleak, this will produce its comparatively large pea-shaped blossoms throughout the summer. Staphylea pinnata (Bladder Nut). The bladder-like seed-cap- sules are striking in the autumn. Symphoricarpus racemosus (Snowberry). Grows anywhere, and produces its large white berries in great profusion. Viburnum Opulus (Guelder Rose). A pretty native shrub. Ulex europea (Common Furze). The double form of this is remarkably showy. CORSICAN PINE TREE WALK, 35 YEARS OLD. ‘IN '‘ATHINAN LF JONAAV VIVOINGANI VIYVOQAVUF SQONPA AHL CONIFERS (INCLUDING PINES) IN ORNAMENTAL PLANTING. THOSE who take a serious interest in their gardens and other planted grounds are so rapidly acquiring a better comprehension of the art in its wider aspects, and are so willingly receptive of further suggestion, that we emphasise a lesson that we have often tried to teach, namely, the importance of planting in large groups of one thing at a time, and of a right choice. There is no more common mistake made than that of planting just the wrong things in the wrong places. Thus we see plantations of Spruce on dry, sandy hill-tops, from whence the poor trees must look with longing eyes to their true home in the moist, alluvial soil of the valley-bottom below. In mixed plantations we see Conifers from many climes and all altitudes, all expected to do equally well in perhaps one small space of garden ground. If in a projected plantation there is space for only fifty trees, how much better it would be first to ascertain which out of a few kinds would be best suited to the soil and general conditions of the place, and then out of this selection to choose the one that best fits the planter’s own liking and will be most in harmony with the further planting scheme that he has in view. In this way he will obtain that unity of effect that alone can Ior 102 TREES AND SHRUBS make a garden or piece of planted ground pictorial and restful, and enable to serve as a becoming setting to the brightly-coloured flowering plants that will then show their proper value as jewels of the garden. In this restrained and sober use of trees, and especially of Conifers, it is well to plant them of several ages, the youngest to the outer edges of the groups. If there is plenty of space it will be all the better to plant the trees in hundreds rather than in fifties, or in any case in spaces large enough to see one whole picture of one good tree at a time. Where such a planting was wisely made from forty to sixty years ago how fine the effect is to-day, as in the case of the grand growth of Douglas Firs at Murthly. No one seeing so fine an example of the use of one tree at a time could wish that the planta- tion had been mixed, or could be otherwise than deeply impressed with the desirability of the plan. One such large group can always be made to merge into another by intergrouping at the edges, beginning by an isolated tree of group B in the further portion of group A, then a group of two or three of B, until the process is reversed and the group is all of B, with single ones of A giving place to all B. There is no reason why the same principle should not be used with two or three kinds of combined grouping, but then it should be of trees harmonious among themselves, as of Spruce and Silver Fir, or of such things as represent the natural mixture of indigenous growth. Thus the Yew, Box, Viburnum, Dogwood, Privet, and Thorn of a wild MAIDENHAIR TREE (Ginkgo biloba, syn. Salisburia adiantifolia) ; fROGMORE. MAIDENHAIR TREE AT KEW. CONIFERS AND PINES 103 chalky waste might be taken as a guide to planting some of these with nearly allied foreign kinds. But the important thing in all such planting is to have the satisfactory restfulness and beauty of harmony that can only be obtained by the right and limited choice of material. Although a few Conifers are deciduous, such as the Maidenhair tree (Ginkgo biloba), Taxodium distichum, the Golden Larch (Pseudolarix Kempferi), and the true Larches, the great bulk of the family consists of evergreens. It is to the Coniferz, indeed, that belong the only hardy evergreen trees which in stature and size rival the large deciduous trees of cool temperate latitudes. Although our only native Conifers are the Yew, the Scotch Pine, and the Juniper, there is a sufficient variety of soil and climate within the limits of the British Isles to provide suitable conditions for nearly the whole of the family. It is only a few subtropical species that cannot be accommodated. This does not imply that the whole of the hardy Conifers can be grown satis- factorily in any one place. In even the best Conifer localities there are some species that will not reach perfection, and in the general run of gardens there is a considerable proportion of species about which the same must be said. This fact, however, has often been overlooked. The extreme popularity of Conifers, which was at its height from forty to fifty years ago, undoubtedly led to the enriching of the parks and gardens of this country with what are now, in many instances, 104 TREES AND SHRUBS magnificent specimens. To realise how great that enrichment was, one has only to mention such places as Dropmore, Murthly Castle, Ochtertyre. But Conifer planting, from both artistic and merely cultural points of view, was overdone. Conifers began to fill an undue proportion of space in gardens, and displaced to a large extent the beautiful flower- bearing deciduous vegetation whose seasonable varia- tions give such charm and interest. With all their symmetry and richness of hue, the popular species of Abies and Picea often have a heavy, even sombre, aspect. Heavy masses of Pine, Spruce, and Fir can never give that changing aspect in the landscape that comes with deciduous vegetation. The tender tints of spring, the flowers, the gold and purple of autumn, it is to these that the seasons of our northern latitudes owe their greatest delights. Perhaps the worst of all the uses to which Conifers have been put is that of forming long avenues across parks. It is difficult to understand the frame of mind that would prefer rows of Araucaria, Abies nobilis, or other similar things—however well grown and pyramidal they might be—to a noble vista of Chestnut, Oak, or Lime, with its canopy of branch and foliage overhead. Conifers can, however, be used effectively for forming short avenues within the garden itself, especially in the more trimly-kept parts. The practice that is frequently adopted of forming a pinetum and bringing together the members of this family in one part of the grounds is a very good CONIFERS AND PINES 105 one. It is far better than sprinkling them indis- criminately over the whole garden. At the same time, where sufficient space is not available for the formation of a pinetum they may be used in their proper proportion with other evergreens in various parts of the garden. Single specimens on lawns of Abies, Picea, and of many other genera are always effective, and nothing in the whole range of native or foreign trees is more stately and picturesque than the Cedar of Lebanon. How much do we of the present day owe to those who a century or more ago planted this tree so abundantly in this country ! Before planting Conifers largely in any garden where they are to be grown for their purely ornamental qualities, a study should be made of the species planted in other gardens where the conditions as to soil, moisture, and altitude are similar. On the peaty formations in Surrey and Hampshire where Rhododendrons succeed so well, many Conifers thrive exceedingly well also, The Common Spruce and its allies are nearly all failures on light dry soil, especially where the subsoil is gravel. In places, however, where the Spruces fail, the Common Larch and the Lawson Cypress succeed well. In chalk districts many Conifers refuse to grow, but the following are among those that thrive: Abies magnifica, A. nobilis, A. nordmanniana, and A, Pinsapo, the Cedars, Cupressus lawsoniana, C. macro- carpa, and C. nootkatensis, the Maidenhair tree, the Junipers, the Thuyas, the Yews, and the following Pines: Pinus Laricio and P. austriaca, the Scotch 106 TREES AND SHRUBS Pine, P. excelsa, and P. Pinaster. Most of the Pines, too, are happy on gravelly or stony ground. None of the Silver Firs (Abies) or Spruces (Picea) are good trees for planting at the seaside, unless there is sufficient shelter to break the force of the wind, and even then there are very few that will succeed. The species most suitable for planting where there is a thick outer belt are Adbzes nobilis, A. lasiocarpa, A. nordmanniana, and A. pectinata, the Common Silver Fir. Of the Spruces, Picea nigra and P. alba, the North American Spruces, succeed better than the Norway Spruce, P. excelsa, but these, like the Silver Firs, must have the shelter of a good wind break ; Picea parryana, P. pungens, and P. Engelmannt will not succeed in exposed places, even in inland localities, and fail entirely by the sea. The Conifers that will thrive by the sea are very few, and probably not more than half-a-dozen kinds can be trusted. The finest of all is undoubtedly Pinus Pinaster, which is essentially a sea-coast Pine, revelling in storms and sprays. P. maritima, closely allied, is equally suitable. Then, for warmer parts, is the Aleppo Pine (P. halepensis), but is only for southern and warm coasts. P. insignis is somewhat hardier, and stands the sea gales fairly well, and P. austriaca, and its relative, P. Laricio, are both excellent, specially for making the first barrier against the winds. The hardy Scotch Pine (P. sylvestris), if planted in large masses grows well, but does not luxuriate close to the sea, and is especially liable to be browned in foliage by the salt spray. VARIETY TENUIFOLIA OF CORSICAN PINE (Pinus Laricio), CONIFERS AND PINES 107 Besides the Pines the finest of all Conifers is the Monterey Cypress (Cupressus macrocarpa), which one sees hardy everywhere on the coast in these islands ; it grows finer than it does in its home on the Pacific coast. It makes a fine front barrier against the wind, especially when mixed with the foregoing Pines. The variety C. Jambertiana is also excellent. There are two other Conifers which, though not much planted by the sea-coast, will, we believe, prove reliable ; these are Cedrus allantica and Thuja gigantea (sometimes called 7. Lobéiz). A third Conifer that we have seen doing well by the sea is Adres Pinsapo, but it must have a temporary shelter in its small state. This subject of seaside planting— the most difficult in a tree planter’s practice—is an important one, and it is only possible to treat the matter generally. The Conifer family is especially noteworthy for the way many of its species vary. Not only is this propensity evidenced in such characters as the colour of the leaf and the differences in habit ; it shows itself more remarkably sometimes in the form and texture of the leaf and mode of branching. So great is the difference between some forms of certain species of Conifers that they have been placed in different genera. What are generally known as Retinosporas, for instance, are really nothing more than forms, “states” the botanists term them, assumed by various species of Thuya and Cupressus. Strictly speaking, Retinospora has no separate existence as a genus. This, however, 108 TREES AND SHRUBS is a botanical phase of the matter. Horticulturally we are more concerned with such variations as adapt the plants to various garden purposes. Many quaint and dainty forms of large trees are very suitable for the rock-garden in association with other alpine plants. The Common Spruce, for instance, has given birth to many pigmy forms. The Yew, the Scotch Pine, and various others have “sported” in a similar way. But no hardy tree varies so much, perhaps, as the Lawson Cypress when raised from seed. The species has assumed almost every shade of colour that Conifers do assume, and every form of growth. Beautiful golden, variegated, pen- dulous, and erect varieties have been raised, and not only from the Lawson Cypress, but from many other Conifers also. The Golden Yews, the yellow form of the Monterey Cypress, and the golden variety of the Scotch Pine, may be recommended to those who require this colour, although in the Pine it only shows itself in winter. The blue-white or glaucous hue that is more or less present in most Conifers, shows itself most conspicuously in the Blue Spruce (Picea pungens glauca), in Cedrus atlantica glauca, in the new Cork Fir from Arizona (Abzes lastocarpa var. arizonica), and in Adbzes concolor violacea. THE PROPAGATION OF CONIFERS Many mistakes have been made in propagating the Coniferz, and to make matters still worse, the old erroneous doctrines are still preached and practised. The unpopularity of certain species of (qavdv joaf St pup ya2f 09 saa4y fo JY Siay asvisay / gggt mw pound ‘Suoy agiu-sazivnb 1 anusav oy) ‘LUNOD CTFAIMSAUGVIN LY FONKID SITIGON SAUIGV AO ZNNAAP (-4noj09 puv ysmorS 12 aruasafiap amos aruay ‘saa1y Suypaas 1p *GOQI ur pagunpd ‘Suoz apru-sazivnb jnogv sz anusa FP) “LYNOO GTaIASTYAV AM LF JONAAK FONFTD VOILINVILY SNUddD CONIFERS AND PINES 109 Abies, Picea, and Pinus is due to a great extent to the practice of grafting them on unsuitable stocks. For instance, the species of Abies are worked on A. pectinata, of Picea on P. excelsa, and of Pinus on P. sylvestris or P. Laricio. In addition to this, such methods and stocks are still spoken of as the correct ones to use; though, to take one genus alone, what kind of a specimen Adzes bracteata, A. nobilis, or A. concolor would make in twenty year’s time if worked on A. fpectinata we should not like to say—certainly very poor, even if they lived, which is doubtful. It may be laid down as a law that species of Conifere should never be grafted but raised from seed, which can always be obtained through English firms. With varietal forms of Coniferz that will not come true from seed or that cannot be struck as cuttings, grafting must be resorted to, and if young plants of the type species are used as stocks the results will be fairly satisfactory. In the case of some of the more highly variegated Cupressus, &c., grafting is really the best method of propagation, as these forms are mostly of weak constitution and are not satisfactory from cuttings. In the following list the best methods of propagation are given with each genus, together with special mention of those forms which are of indifferent growth though not difficult to propagate :— JUNIPERUS.—The Junipers should be raised from seeds, though some of them do fairly well if propa- gated by cuttings. The green and glaucous varieties of J. chinensis, J. excelsa, J. virginiana, and J. communis 110 TREES AND SHRUBS root easily from cuttings, or can be layered with success. The variegated forms are best grafted on stocks of the species they belong to, and J. Sabina (the Savin) and its varieties are easily raised from cuttings or layers, the latter being a very easy way of propagating them. CUPRESSUS.—This genus is divided into two sections, viz., the true Cypresses, represented by C. macrocarpa, C. sempervirens, &c., and Chamecy- paris, of which Cupressus lawsoniana is the best known species, With the former section seeds are the best means of reproducing the species, while the few varieties should be grafted on stocks of the parent species. The handsome C. macrocarpa var. lutea especially should be worked on the type, as it is practically a failure from cuttings, and if grafted on C. /awsoniana, as is sometimes done, it makes a short, stumpy bush instead of a typically tall colum- nar tree. In the Chamezcyparis section Cupressus lawsoniana, C. nootkatensis, C. obtusa, C. pisifera, and C. thyoides are the only species, though there are a host of varieties attached to them, the forms of the three latter species, in fact, including all the various plants more commonly known under the generic title of Retinospora. The species should be raised from seed, which is easily obtainable and germinates readily, or in default they will root from cuttings. The varieties, with a few exceptions, are quickly propagated by cuttings, those that require to be grafted being C. /awsoniana var. lutea, the variegated forms of C. nootkatensis, and C. obtusa LIBOCEDRUS DECURRENS AT FROGMORE (about 65 feet high). CONIFERS AND PINES III vars. nana, nana aurea, and filifera aurea. ‘The forms of C. thyotdes also do well when raised from layers. THuyA.—These are propagated in much the same way as the Cupressus, viz., the species by seeds, and the varieties by cuttings or by grafting in the case of the one or two highly variegated forms. Some of the green or glaucous varieties of both Cupressus and Thuya will come fairly true from seed, from 40 per cent. to 70 per cent. being the usual quantity of seedlings true to name. Variegated forms. from seed either come green or a mongrel mixture of green and variegated. LIBOCEDRUS.—This should be raised from seed, as when grafted on Thuja orientalis—a too common method of propagation—it makes a miserable speci- men. The middle pair of scales in the cone of Libocedrus alone contain fertile seeds. SCIADOPITYS and TAxODIUM.—These can only be propagated by seeds, and the young plants should have a fairly moist position with plenty of leaf- mould or peat to grow in afterwards. SEQUOIA.—The two species of Sequoia should be raised from seed, and the three or four varieties be grafted on the type species. CRYPTOMERIA.—This only contains one species, viz., C. japonica, which can only be obtained from seed, or by cuttings ; and the varieties root readily as cuttings, though one or two of the weaklier ones do better if grafted on C. japonica. ARAUCARIA.—Propagate by seeds, which, though 112 TREES AND SHRUBS sometimes difficult to obtain, germinate freely and quickly. TsuGa.—The Hemlock Spruces are easily and quickly obtained from seeds, and one or two will strike from cuttings; the varieties do best when grafted on the species they belong to, though 7. pationiana var. glauca, more commonly known as Abies hookeriana, will come fairly true from seed, about 75 per cent. being the usual quantity if the seed is obtained from good plants. PIcEA.—This genus has been mentioned before as being commonly grafted on P. excelsa (the Common Spruce), which is an easy way of obtain- ing young plants, which, however, cannot be recom- mended to form good specimens in after years. The species of Picea should all be raised from seed, and the many named varieties of P. excelsa should be grafted on the parent species. At least one-half the plants of P. Engelmanni var. glauca and P. pungens var. glauca (the Californian Blue Spruce) will be found true to name when raised from seeds, while their superiority afterwards over grafted plants is evident. CEDRUS, LARIX, AND PSEUDOLARIX.—It should always be remembered that these three are quite distinct genera, and for purposes of propagation should never be used in conjunction with each other, the first being evergreen and the two latter deciduous. The species of all three should be raised from seed; the varieties of Cedrus should be grafted on that genus, the forms of Larix on the Larch, though the geographical forms of the Common CONIFERS AND PINES 113 Larch, such as var. rossica and var. sibirica, usually come true from seed. Pseudolarix Keampferi, the only representative of the genus, must be raised from seed, as if grafted on the Larch they will not thrive for long. ABIES.—In this genus some of the most handsome Conifers are found, and also ‘some of the most difficult to grow. All the Abies should be propa- gated by seeds, but if seed of the varieties cannot be obtained then they must be grafted on the parent species. PsEUDOTSUGA.— This genus only contains one species, viz., P. Douglasit (the Douglas Fir), which is propagated readily by seed, the seedlings being of rapid growth and soon form good plants. The few varieties are grafted on the type, though the majority will come fairly true from seed, which, however, is not always to be obtained. Pinus.—Perhaps no Conifer adds so much to the beauty of the landscape in winter as the Pine. All the species should be raised from seeds, and any green or glaucous varieties can also be propagated in the same way if seeds can be obtained. The golden, dwarf, and variegated Pines must be grafted on the species they are varieties of. TAXACEZ is usually associated with Conifere, from which it differs chiefly by the seed being nearly or quite enclosed in a fleshy envelope in- stead of in a cone, the fruit of some resembling a small Plum, but a typical fruit is seen in that of the Common Yew. The hardy genera are Ginkgo H 114 TREES AND SHRUBS biloba (the Maidenhair tree), which is propagated from seed—the plant is deciduous and slow grow- ing ; Cephalotaxus and Torreya are propagated by seeds, cuttings, or layers. Taxus (the Yew).—There are only three or four species of Taxus, but there are a great many varieties of the Common Yew, many being very handsome. The species are easily raised from seeds, layers, or cuttings. The first two methods are the best, cuttings being very slow in growth, but as seed is very plentiful in most years this is the quickest and best means of propagation. Some of the varieties will come true from seed; the Irish Yew, however, must be struck from cuttings, as seedlings never come true. The more highly variegated Yews grow quickest when grafted on the Common Yew, and as they always keep good in after years this method can for once be recommended. Propagate PRUMNOPITYS and SAXEGOTHEA by seeds, cuttings, or layers. CONIFERS AT MURTHLY CASTLE, PERTHSHIRE The following account of a great Conifer garden in Scotland is important, as showing how certain of the better-known species have behaved during the last fifty years or so. It is taken from the Garden of May 19, 1900 :— The second quarter of the present century saw the introduction of a large number of Conifers hitherto unknown to English gardens. Their culti- vation was eagerly taken up, and especially in Scot- AVENUE OF ANCIENT YEWS AT MURTHLY, CONIFERS AND PINES 115 land, a land whose general conditions seem highly favourable to a considerable number of species, much success has been attained. It maystill be premature to state with any degree of assurance what may be the ultimate suitability of many of these Conifers for growth in our islands. The lifetime of a tree is not comprised within its first sixty years, and such a length of time is all too short to prove the ultimate success of any new tree, though within that space it may come to a magnificent size and apparent promise. Such a state is shown by the splendid Douglas Firs in the grounds of Murthly Castle, Perthshire, where also many another exotic Conifer is grown in quantity. These words of Sir William Thiselton-Dyer, that formed part of his opening address on the second day of the Conifer conference of the Royal Horti- cultural Society in 1891, may here be quoted :— “ Any one who had not travelled in Scotland could form no idea of the extent to which rare Conifers were cultivated in that country, and the splendid development which they attained. The chairman, by way of illustrating these remarks, directed the attention of the audience to some large photographs representing specimens of Coniferze to be seen at Murthly Castle, Perthshire, where they flourished, and where stately and magnificent examples 70 feet, 80 feet, and 100 feet high were to be met with. Such trees could only be seen in Scotland, and were the result of a peculiar association of physical condi- tions. In the south-west of England it was impos- 116 TREES AND SHRUBS sible to find a parallel, though even on the sunburnt soil of Kew good specimens of the Pines proper were occasionally to be seen. With regard to the Abies, however — that section of Conifers of which the Spruces may be taken as a type—a state of things prevailed in Scotland which could not be rivalled in England. On the other hand, the climate in the south-west of the latter country was fairly suitable for some other Conifers, and many of the fine Mexican Pines could be grown there.” Of the remarkable Douglas Fir at Dropmore, Mr. Charles Herrin on the same occasion says: ‘The monarch Douglas Fir, planted in 1830, has attained a height of 120 feet, girth of trunk 11 feet 9 inches, with beautiful spreading branches sweeping the ground, covering a diameter of 64 feet. The leaves are also of a glaucous hue, equalling in that respect many of the plants now sold from nurseries under the name of Douglasi glauca. . . . Many trees have since been raised from its seeds and planted out on the estate; one, planted in 1843, is now 78 feet high, with a girth of trunk of 8 feet 2 inches, spreading 39 feet in diameter at base; a perfect specimen.” By comparing the growth of the latter tree with the Murthly table, it will be seen that the trees make their growth much more rapidly in Scotland. The Murthly Conifers were all planted by Sir William and Sir Douglas Stewart. The present owner, Mr. Steuart Fothringham, who measured the trees in 1891 in anticipation of the visit of the Scottish ag CONIFERS AND PINES 117 Arboricultural Society, on learning that we should be glad to know their increase of growth since that date, has been so good as to have the same trees measured again, the increase being shown by the subjoined table on p, 118. Mr. Fothringham also furnishes the following remarks: “The measurements were all carefully taken by sending men or boys up the trees, not by dendrometers, and are, I believe, correct. There are something like eighty or a hundred different varieties growing at Murthly, but some of them are young and only experiments. Those measured and noted-are the most striking; they are nearly all gowing in large numbers. The remarks appended to the table are made by Mr. James Laurie, the gardener, who knows Conifers well. The only addi- tional notes I have made are the following: Adzies Menziesi will never, in my opinion, supplant the Spruce. Adzes orientalis is not as free-growing as the Spruce, but quite as hardy. Araucaria imbricata — Many of these were damaged by severe frost. Cedrus Deodara will not, in my opinion, live to great age in our climate. Cupressus thyoides.—This particular tree was so much broken by branches blown off its neighbour that I cut it down. Pinus monticola has been attacked by a parasitic growth that is likely to destroy all the young growth and probably the trees. Juniperus recurva was severely injured by the hard frost. By the hard frost I mean the winter of 1894-5. 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This shows that all these trees will stand great cold at the time of year that it is likely to come, but late frosts in spring, when the sap has begun to rise, are detrimental to the young shoots of those that start their growth early in the season. There are at Murthly, besides Conifere, fine specimens of Yews, Oaks, Beech, Spanish Chest- nut, Horse Chestnut, and Sycamore.” CARE OF OLD TREES THE charm of many an estate is not the garden or the woodland, but the monarchs that for years have weathered the winter storm and stand out as noble specimens of their family. The trees may have some historic associations, but whether this is so or not, when they begin to decay efforts are made to save them from absolute death. Decay is harmful and objectionable in park and garden, and we are not sure that this matter of decay in trees has been so well considered as it might be, as bearing upon the health of other trees and of mankind also. A tree may be picturesque in decay, but we prefer it in health and beauty. Experts are frequently asked for remedies to arrest decay in old trees. The two principal causes of decay are starvation at the root and injury by storms and disease. Such trees as the Beech and Horse Chestnut, that root close to the surface of the soil—quite different to the Oak—may often be invigorated by covering the ground with a few inches of good soil or short manure. Artificial watering, during prolonged drought, when thoroughly done, is also very helpful to the tree. Trees with large crowns of branches are frequently seen thinly furnished with foliage, and altogether sickly owing to unhealthy or insufficient 120 CARE OF OLD TREES 121 roots. The balance between top and bottom has been destroyed. To restore it in some degree the top-growth may be reduced by pruning out and shortening back branches here and there, wherever it can be done without spoiling the appearance of the tree. This demands careful judgment, but some old and sickly trees may certainly be restored in a measure by this help. It is of no value in the case of trees with decayed trunks, nor with those like our Common Oak, which will not break from old wood. But Elms, Robinias, and Red Oaks are among those that respond to this treatment. Old trees with insecure branches can often be saved from destruction by fastening the main branches together on to the trunk. The common practice of putting an iron collar round the branch is a mistake. The iron prevents the branch expand- ing naturally and ultimately chokes it. A better way is to use a strong iron rod with a plate at the end, and instead of supporting the branch by encircling it, a hole is bored right through the centre of it, through which the rod is pushed from the outer side. In this way the weight is borne by the iron plate, which should, by removing sufficient bark, be allowed to fit close in to the wood. New bark will gradually close over and hide the plate, and instead of an ugly collar cutting into the wood, the only evidence of artificial aid is the rod coming from the inner side of the branch. Branches or snags that have to be removed should be sawn off quite close to the trunk or larger branch 122 TREES AND SHRUBS from which they spring. When a stump, even not more than a few inches long, is left, the new bark and wood are unable to close over it, and the wood ultimately decays and acts as a medium for mois- ture and fungoid diseases. A coating of liquid tar over the wound, renewed once or twice until the new bark has closed over, is a sure protection against these evils. Trees decayed in the centre, with only an outer layer of healthy wood, are, of course, doomed, but by filling up all holes in the earlier stages of decay, and thus keeping out moisture, their term of life can be lengthened by many years. Holes made by woodpeckers can sometimes be plugged up with a piece of Oak. This, if left on a level with the bark, will often enable the latter to close over the hole. Large holes may be filled with cement, or even built up with bricks, the surface being made water-tight and tarred over. ALDERS NEAR WATER (Cathkin time). WHITE WILLOW (Salix alba) BY WATERSIDE. TREES AND SHRUBS FOR WATERSIDE Many of the brightest garden pictures at the present day are by the well-planted pond or lakeside, where shrubs of large growth are grouped to give colour through summer and winter. The wild plants of the riverside are in themselves for the most part large of stature and important of appearance. When one sees the upright growth and large leaves of the Great Water Dock (Rumex) and the broad round ones (2 feet or more across) of the Butter-Bur (Petasites), and the beds of the Common Reed (Phragmites), 8 to 10 feet high, with its great brown-black plumes, and the curious bright- green Horsetail (Equisetum), and the rosy banks of Willow-herb and Loose-strife, and the calm wide breadths of the white Water Lily in the still back- waters ; when we see all these lessons that Nature teaches by the riverside we perceive that for the best of good effect of waterside gardening we need not be afraid of planting things of bold growth largely. When we come to garden plants there are many families that are never so happy as when close to water, or in soil that always feels the cool, moistening influence of water within a few feet below them. Such are the whole range of the larger herbaceous 123 124 TREES AND SHRUBS Spirzeas, some of them plants of great size. Then we have the Thalictrums, the autumn - flowering Phloxes, the stately Heracleum; Telekia, Bamboos, Arundo Donax, the Swamp and Meadow Lilies of the northern states of America; and coming to smaller though scarcely less important plants, the Scarlet Lobelias, Oriental Poppies, many Irises, the Michaelmas Daisies, and Day Lilies ; all these thrive by the waterside. There are many shrubs that prefer a moist place, such as the Guelder Rose and the beautiful North American Halesia, Quinces, Rhododendrons, Azaleas, and Kalmias, while the lovely Fritillaries, Globe- flowers, and the double Cuckoo-flowers love damp grassy spaces. We think we may safely advise those who are making gardens by river or lake to go forward and plant with confidence, only selecting such things as are mentioned below. As the things named are described elsewhere in this book a list only is given. — TREES AND SHRUBS FOR SWAMPY PLACES Willows (Salix) in great variety: S. alba (White Willow), S. babylonica (Babylonian Weeping Willow), S. purpurea, S. p. pendula (American Weeping Willow), S. Caprea, S. C. pendula (Kilmarnock Weeping Willow), Cardinal Willow and Golden Willow—both these are very beautiful in winter ; the stems of the former are crimson, and of the latter golden yellow, and make a remarkable picture of intense colouring; plant NATURAL TREE GROWTH BY WATER (Burnham Becches.) ‘AGISHALFM AC SAIOTTIA! TREES FOR WATERSIDE 125 them in large groups—S. daphnoides (the White- stemmed Willow), S. fragilis (Crack Willow), S. f. hasfordiana (Red-barked Willow), and S. hippophaifolia (Sea Buckthorn-leaved Willow). Populus alba (White Poplar), P. canadensis (Canadian Poplar), P. nigra (Black Poplar), Lombardy Poplar, and B. tremula (the Aspen). But the Poplars must not be overdone, and by pond or lakeside are often out of place. In such places the Cardinal and Yellow-barked Willow, Sea Buckthorn, and similar shrubs are more appropriate. Common Alder, with its many varieties — Cut- leaved, the Golden-leaved, and such as Alnus incana and A. serrulata. Taxodium distichum (Deciduous Cypress); tender green in spring and brownish red in autumn, when the leaves change colour. Hippophe rhamnoides (the Sea Buckthorn). TREES AND SHRUBS FOR MOIST (BUT NOT Swampy) SOIL Berberis Darwinit (Darwin’s Barberry), B. Thun- bergi (for its beautiful autumn leaf-colouring), Birch, Dogwoods, Cornus alba and varieties; the variety sibirica has brilliant-red stems. Cotoneaster buxifolia, C. frigida, C. Nummularia, C. Simonsii; Ash, Myrica Gale (Sweet Gale) and M. asplenifolia; Ledum palustre, Nyssa aquatica (Tupelo tree), Mountain Ash, Quercus aquatica (Water Oak), Q. palustris (Swamp Oak) ; Rhamnus Frangula (Buckthorn). Roses with brightly- 126 TREES AND SHRUBS coloured heps — Rubus biflorus (White - stemmed Bramble), R. fruticosus fl. pl. (Double Pink Bramble), R. laciniatus (Cut-leaved Bramble), R. spectabilis (Sal- mon Berry). Sambucus racemosa (Red-berried Elder), Spirea Douglasit, S. hypericifolia, S. lindleyana; Tamarisk. Viburnum Opulus (Guelder Rose) ; when this native shrub is weighed down with the rich red berry-clusters, it is a remarkable colour picture, and the autumn leaf tints add to its beauty. Of Conifers, mention may be made of T7suga canadensis, Abies Mensztesit, Cupressus thyotdes, and Thuja gigantea. Bamboos: Select those of robust growth, such as Arundinaria japonica (Bambusa Metake), A. Simoni, A, Veitchti, and A. palmata; Phyllostachys viridi- glaucescens and P. mitts. TREES AND SHRUBS FOR THE ROCK GARDEN IF we think of the changes in gardening terms which have occurred during the last quarter of a century, there is surely significance in the gradual transition from the Rock Garden or Alpine Garden into the more imposing Rock Garden of our present-day language. It points to the bolder grouping—now happily adopted in most good gardens and more in accordance with Nature’s pattern—which includes evergreen and flowering shrubs as well as the close- growing alpine plants, gem-like in their brilliant colours, which in earlier days were alone considered suitable for the purpose. The principle is now generally recognised that the “ unstudied picturesque- ness of Nature may be brought into the rule and line ordering of our gardens,” and the better con- struction and government of the Rock Garden gives greater scope for the carrying out of this worthy effort. In enumerating suitable shrubs for the Rock Garden, more than ordinary care should be exercised in their selection, in view of the greater difficulty of rectifying mistakes in such positions. We must not be led away by the beauty of a shrub, for instance, during its time of flowering alone, without 127 128 TREES AND SHRUBS considering its character at other seasons and its adaptability to its special surroundings. A due sense of proportion will also hold us back from planting a spreading, hungry-natured shrub in limited space, or where it would rob and over-run more valuable but weaker plants. Such considerations as these must be left to the planter who, in his turn, must be guided by the incidental circumstances of his particular locality. It is only possible here to set down some of the best shrubs available for the purpose, and to indicate, in a very general way, the positions for which they are suitable. Occasionally, where there is ample space, a deci- duous tree of low growth may be planted to great advantage. Not long ago, in a picturesque district bordering on Western Germany, a mental note was made of the excellent effect of Wild Medlar trees, scarcely more than good-sized bushes, growing about the boulders and overhanging the edge of quarried rocks, The white flowers in spring, and the fine form and tint of the russet-brown fruit as it gradually swells during the summer months give this tree a peculiar claim on our attention where the position is suitable. But in planning the main features of the Rock Garden, we naturally turn our thoughts first to evergreen trees and shrubs, because the plants grown in such positions, being usually either alpine or herbaceous, are mostly in abeyance during the winter, and it is desirable that the rockery, no less than every other part of the garden, should be interesting even if it cannot be gay, during the TREES FOR THE ROCK GARDEN 129 period of rest. A specimen Holly or, in exceptionally mild climates, a tall bush, from 8 to ro feet high, of Pittosporum undulatum, one of the most beautiful of New Zealand evergreen trees, may be so placed, for example, as to be exceedingly pictorial ; but, as a rule, we must keep our shrubs to an average maximum height of not more than from 4 to 5 feet, and, generally speaking, those of still lower stature are better suited to the ordinary Rock Garden. Some of the small-growing Conifers, from their compact habit and distinct character, are especially well fitted to break the outline and to give contrast. We think of Pines and Spruce Firs and Cedars as majestic trees, and it is only when one comes to study them in their manifold varieties that we find how many of these range from a height of only a few inches to 3 feet, or at most to q feet. Some species, it is true, do not lend themselves gracefully to the dwarfing process, becoming clumpy and inelegant, but this charge cannot be brought against many of the Cypresses and Junipers. Several of the smaller Conifers, besides, give the advantage of distinct variations of colour with the changing seasons. Reference is not now made to the golden and silver forms, so-called, which occur in most of the genera, and put on their brightest tints in spring, but to the deeper winter colouring assumed, ¢.g. by Cupressus thyoides ( = Retinospora ericoides), which alters its summer tone of dark green to purple brown on the approach of cold weather; or by Cryptomeria elegans, a little less hardy, which changes to a fine I 130 TREES AND SHRUBS shade of bronzy crimson. Like other plants, Conifers differ greatly as to constitution, and judgment must be used in their choice. The dwarf alpine form of the Common Juniper (Juniperus communis nana) is very hardy and slow-growing, never becoming too ram- pant for the smallest Rock Garden, and shares the blue-grey tint which is so characteristic of this beau- tiful species. Very distinct from it is the lovely prostrate Savin (J. Sabina procumbens), one of the best of evergreen shrubs for the Rock Garden, and one most restful and satisfying to the eye at all times in its deep tones of sea green. Cupressus pistfera, almost plumose in one of its many variations, and C. obtusa, both better known perhaps under the garden name of Retinosporas, are admirable, and may be used either in the normal or the dwarf forms according to the greater or less space at command. Almost the last tree, probably, which one would expect to see draping the vertical face of a rock is the Spruce Fir, yet a weeping variety (Picea excelsa pendula) is exceedingly effective in such a position as a foil to hanging masses of richly-coloured Aubrietias or Golden Alyssum, while it looks well at all seasons. Mention may here be made of a remark- able Conifer, Cunninghamia sinensis, of great beauty and very distinct character, which takes the shape, in our climate, of a spreading bush, though in its native habitat it grows into a tree of noble dimen- sions. It is suitable only for a Rock Garden of some boldness of construction, with which a mild climate and a sheltered position are fortuitously com- TREES FOR THE ROCK GARDEN 131 bined, but under such happy circumstances a place should certainly be found for this handsome and little-known China Fir. Another uncommon coniferous shrub, also very distinct and more generally useful than the last, is Podocarpus alpina. Though a native of Tasmania, it grows at high elevations, and is able to resist severe frost. Dark green in foliage, only about 2 feet in height, and of a somewhat spreading nature, it is never out of place in the Rock Garden, whether large or small. From Conifers we may pass to Veronicas, certain of which might almost be mistaken for some min- ute form of Cypress. Of this character is a small group known in New Zealand, the natural habitat of a large number of shrubby species, by the apposite name of Whipcord Veronicas. Being themselves alpine, are particularly well suited for grouping with low-growing mountain plants. Six species or varieties of this interesting section grow naturally at elevations ranging from 7000 to 4000 feet, and are much more hardy than is generally supposed. These are: V. cupressoides, V. c. var. variabilis, V. lycopodiotdes, V. Armstrongu, V. Hectori, V. loganiotdes. The form of V. cupressoides, known as variabilis, was mistaken, on its first introduction, for a distinct species, V. salicornioides, and may still be met with under that name. The small violet or white flowers of these miniature evergreen shrubs are not perhaps much to be taken into account, but they have a distinct value of their own as rock-work greenery. 132 TREES AND SHRUBS There are other dwarf New Zealand Veronicas of a leafy character, differing essentially from these mimetic species, such as V. carnosula and V. pingut- foka, also inhabiting regions 5000 feet above the sea-level, which are suited for localities with average advantages of climate. Others again, such as V. Lyall, V. glauco-cerulea, and V. hulkeana, though they grow naturally at lower altitudes, and must be reckoned only half-hardy, may yet be serviceable for Rock Gardens on the southern sea-board, or on the west coast of Scotland. Belonging to the larger-grow- ing and more familiar species of Shrubby Veronica, mention may be made of a good purple-flowered hybrid, of very compact growth, known as Purple King, which is exceedingly ornamental from its free- flowering habit. Many of the losses sustained amongst these interesting New Zealand shrubs are owing to drought rather than to frost, and their extreme sus- ceptibility to dryness at the root is a fact not recog- nised as it should be. Hardy Heaths are of the utmost value in the Rock Garden, and range in height from the 6 feet or more of Erica arborea to the 6 inches of the well-known E. carnea, and can be used in rough places, where more delicate plants might not thrive. A.sudden emergency once arose in the experience of the writer, when a shelving mass of earth had to be shored-up as quickly as possible with such material as lay ready to hand at the moment. This happened to be found in a heap of ugly, yellowish, water-worn boulders of great size, which abound in that particular locality, CISTUSES AND ROSES IN THE ROCK GARDEN. (In the left lower corner, Cistus hirsutus ; middle, Rosa alba; to right, R. rugosa Mme. Georges Bruant.) DWARF SHRUBS ON ROCK GARDEN. TREES FOR THE ROCK GARDEN 133 at no great distance below the ground-level, and must be dug out when any deep trenching has to be done. There was no time to be wasted in facing the stones, which would have made them more sightly, and they had to be used as they were. Fortunately a large consignment of the best hardy Heaths had lately arrived from the Darley Dale Nurseries, and were immediately seized upon to cover up the ugliness of the hastily-built-up barricade. Boulders and Heaths, however, took to each other kindly, in spite of a soil by no means specially suitable, and with the addition, later, of a few good kinds of Cistus and other shrubs, the bank still remains as happy a bit of rough planting as could be desired. Of the taller Heaths, £. arborea is somewhat tender, and is not so generally useful as E. mediterranea or E. codonodes. A hybrid form—E£. mediterranea x E. carnea—is excellent, and comes into flower about Christmas, in advance of either of its parents, when its pale-purple spikes are very welcome, and are quite distinct from the rosy-red flowers of E. carnea. The foliage of hardy Heaths is never unsightly, but the persistent dead flowers are, and these should always be clipped off as soon as their beauty is over, or the new growth will break away above the withered flowers, leaving, in many cases, straggling and un- clothed branches. The omission of this needful work every season is a fruitful source of the ragged- ness which brings some discredit on these otherwise attractive plants. Many flowering shrubs of the same natural order 134 TREES AND SHRUBS as Heaths, but unlike them in general appearance, such as the Alpine Rhododendrons, R. ferrugineum and R. hirsutum, and the less well-known but very beautiful and distinct R. racemosum, as well as some of the miniature varieties of Azalea indica, notably R. obtusa and its forms, seem peculiarly suitable for the Rock Garden. Again, where rock meets more level ground, and the trickle of a stream can be so directed as to give moisture without sogginess, a considerable number of peat-loving evergreen shrubs belonging to the same order, of the type of Gaultheria, Vaccinium, and Pieris, may be used with excellent effect. Gaultheria Shallon, indeed, is a singularly fine shrub in any position, and is not very exacting in any of its requirements. Growing about 2 feet high, with purple leaf-tints in winter, and spikes of white waxy flowers, brightly tinged with red, in spring, which are followed by purple fruit, few things can surpass it in its way. For carpeting moist spots, the little G. procumbeus, which rises scarcely 3 inches from the ground, will fill a useful place with its winter colouring of crimson brown. Shrubs of this class are well worth study by those whose locality admits of their cultivation. For dry, sunny, and stony banks Rock Roses may be chosen, but the position must be wind-screened, a more important factor in the question of their hardiness than cold. The large-growing Gum Cistus is well known and tolerably hardy everywhere, and so also is C. laurifolius, but there are several most desirable species of dwarfer growth, such as the TREES FOR THE ROCK GARDEN 135 white, crimson-spotted C. /usitanicus, the pink-flowered C. villosus, the bright-red C. crispus, and the pure white C. florentinus, which are quite happy in sheltered rock walks especially by the sea; they have been also grown with success in many colder situations inland. The Cistinez, at best, are somewhat short- lived, and lose vigour and power of resistance as they grow older. Keep up, therefore, young, thrifty stock by yearly cuttings to fill up inevitable gaps, which is a matter of no cultural difficulty. Where Rock Roses are out of the question, their place may worthily be filled by the hardier shrubby Helan- themums, though they differ greatly from Cistinez in their trailing habit and smaller flowers. The breadths of brilliant colour given by these Sun Roses while in bloom are invaluable, and may be enjoyed to the full in almost any locality, while the many variations of tint, from deep green to ashen grey, in their leafage should also be taken into consideration, as it increases their usefulness when out of flower. No list of good shrubs for the Rock Garden would be complete without some reference to Yuccas, which for all practical purposes must be included under that head. Groups of these magnificent plants, with their sub-tropical effect, cannot be surpassed for nobility of outline and stateliness of flower. To do them full justice, they must have space to develop their grand proportions, but this may often be found on the ridge or upper slope, even in rock-work of limited character. Y. gloriosa, with its fine form, Y. recurva, and the stemless Y. flaccida, of smaller 136 TREES AND SHRUBS growth, are amongst the best and hardiest kinds, and to these may be added Y. angustifoha, another valuable and nearly stemless species. It is only possible, in restricted space, to touch in a very cursory way upon a few of the available groups of dwarf-growing shrubs. Many more than have been mentioned will occur readily to the minds of those who are at all conversant with plants, such as Abela rupestris, Magnolia stellata, several beautiful species Of Daphne, some of the St. John’s Worts, of low-growing Cyt/sus, and others which may be classed under the head of miscellaneous. The subjoined list, though it does not pretend to be exhaustive, will be found of use, either for purposes of winter greenery or for summer embellishment, by those who are seeking good and suitable dwarf shrubs for planting, under varied conditions in the Rock Garden. DWARF SHRUBS FOR THE ROCK GARDEN Harpy EVERGREEN Buxus sempervirens vars. Rosmarinus officinalis (Rose- Cotoneaster buxifolia. Danzea Laurus (Alexandrian Laurel). Gaultheria Shallon. Lavendula vera der). Mahonia Aquifolium. Osmanthus Aquifolium. Pernettya mucronata. (Laven- mary). Skimmia Foremani. Veronica (Whipcord). 4 cupressoides. ” cup. var. variabilis. » Armstrongii. i Hectori. % loganioides. 4) lycopodioides. TREES FOR THE ROCK GARDEN 137 Cupressus obtusa nana. rs pisifera. ‘3 thyoides. Juniperus communis nana. » Sabina prostrata. Contfers Picea excelsa clanbrassiliana. » ex. pendula. » eX. pumila glauca. Podocarpus alpina. Taxus baccata and vars. Harpy FLOWERING SHRUBS Amygdalus nana. Azalea (Rhododendron) amezena. »» indica and vars. » Mollis. Cytisus Ardoini. » Kewensis. »» | purpureus. Daphne blagayana. » Cneorum. » Mezereum. Dryas octopetala. Erica carnea. 3 Ciliaris. 5, codonodes. » mediterranea. 3» ™. hybrida. Genista germanica. » pilosa. Helianthemum vars. Hypericum moserianum. 3 olympicum. 3 patulum. Kalmia angustifolia. » glauca. Magnolia stellata. Olearia Haastii. Ononis rotundifolia. Philadelphus microphyllus. Phlomis fruticosa. Polygala Chameebuxus. Rhododendron ferrugineum. a hirsutum. ‘3 racemosum. Rosa lutea. »» pimpinellifolia. », xanthina (Ecz). Rubus arcticus. Spireea arguta. » Bumalda. »» decumbens, &c. Veronica buxifolia. rm carnosula. » pinguifolia. 3 linifolia. Yucca angustifolia. » filamentosa. » fil. var. flaccida. » gloriosa. » recurvifolia. 138 TREES AND SHRUBS FLOWERING AND OTHER SHRUBS FOR SHELTERED SITUATIONS AND MILD CLIMATE Abelia rupestris. Cistus albidus. » crispus. » lusitanicus. 5 Villosus. Coronilla Emerus. 5 glauca. Daphne Dauphini. » Genkwa. Desfontainea spinosa. Draczena australis. Fabiana imbricata. Escallonia macrantha. - ‘j montevidensis. is philippiana and hybrids. Eugenia Ugni. Fatsia japonica. Grevillea rosmarinifolia. Helianthemum formosum. Linum arboreum. Myrtus communis. », box leaved. Olearia dentata. Ozothamnus rosmarinifolius. Philesia buxifolia. Pittosporum Tobira. 55 undulata. Rhododendron. Rosa berberifolia. Rubus roszfolius. Swainsonia alba. Trachycarpus excelsa (Chinese Fan Palm). Veronica chathamica. PA epacridea. _ Fairfieldii. - glauco-ccerulea. 4 pimeleoides. 4 speciosa. 5 Traversii. i Purple King (hyb.). Conifers. Cryptomeria elegans. Cunninghamia sinensis. For Moist Peaty Soi, aT THE Foot oF ROCKS Andromeda polifolia. Bryanthus erectus. Cassandra calyculata. Cassiope tetragona, Dabeecia _ polifolia Heath). Gaultheria procumbens. Ledum palustre. Leucothoé axillaris. i Catesbeei. Lycopodium dendroideum. (Irish Myrica asplenifolia. » Gale. Pieris floribunda. », japonica. Rhodothamnus chamecistus. Salix reticulata. Selaginella Douglasii. Vaccinium crassifolium. 3 uliginosum. i Vitis-ideea. Zenobia speciosa. ‘MALANA LP (mowmyy psoy Aqqnays) FSOOILQAYA SINONO TREE IN COURSE OF REMOVAL WITH ONE OF BARRON'S MACHINES. REMOVAL OF LARGE TREES AND SHRUBS PROBABLY no garden operation requires more time and labour than the proper removal of large trees and shrubs from one part of a garden to another. Time, as it will take two, or even three, days to remove a large tree to a distance ; and labour, as the services of from eight to twelve men will be required to accomplish the work. It is not, therefore, an operation to be lightly undertaken or got through in a hurry. Before proceeding to describe the various ways of moving large specimen plants, it will be well to con- sider the trees and shrubs that are generally required to be moved. Three numbered lists are given arranged according to the ‘roots of the shrubs or trees—that is, those that, when they have stood for some time in one place, are most alike as regards the way their roots are placed together ; and the lists are also some guide when transplanting, as the chances of life after removal are greatest in No. 1, less in No. 2, and considerably lower in No. 3. LVo. 1. LVo. 2. No. 3. Andromeda. Ailantus. Arbutus. Azalea. Alder. Aucuba. Clethra. Almond. Bay Laurel. 139 140 No. 1. No. 2. No. 3. Kalmia. Amelanchier. Carya. Rhododendron. Ash. Catalpa. Vaccinium. Beech. Cotoneaster. Birch, Diospyros. Box. Elzagnus. Celtis. Halesia. Chestnut. Hamamelis. Crateegus. Hippophee. Elm. Holly. Flowering Cherries. Liquidambar. Hornbeam. Laurel (Common). Horse-Chestnut. », (Portugal). Laburnum. Magnolia. Lime. Osmanthus. Malus. Phillyreea. Maple. Rhamnus. Mulberry. Styrax. Oak. Tulip Tree. Peach. Viburnum. Plane. Walnut. Poplar. Yew. Pyrus. Robinia. Coniferze. Willow. TREES AND SHRUBS It will be noticed that Conifers are mentioned in the third list, and even in nurseries where they are regularly moved the mortality amongst them is very high ; and the removal of large Conifers should never be attempted except with a transplanting machine, and expert men to handle it. As a rule, it will be found cheaper and better to buy young plants than to attempt the removal of large ones that have stood for some years without root disturbance. Such REMOVAL OF LARGE TREES 141 flowering shrubs as Spivea, Philadelphus, Kerria, Ribes, &c., can be safely moved without much trouble, as they make a mass of roots which will hold a good ball of soil unless it is very dry. All are practically certain to live if carefully planted and well watered afterwards. There are several ways of moving large trees, the simplest and quickest being by a proper transplant- ing machine, which consists of a framework on wheels fitted with a system of rollers and levers. For moderately-sized trees, say, to about 12 feet high, a two-wheeled machine is sufficient. This is moved by eight or ten men. For trees above 12 feet high a four-wheeled machine is required, with two, or perhaps three, horses to draw it. The first will take a ball of soil weighing from two to three tons, the latter anything to ten tons, or even more. In preparing the tree for the small machine the ball is made round, and slightly smaller than the width of the machine, a trench being cut round the tree to a depth of 3 feet or so, the actual depth depending on the roots, but the soil should be re- moved a foot lower than the lowest roots. On no account undermine the ball until the proper depth has been reached. A proper machine-pick is the best thing to use under the ball, carefully working out sufficient soil to introduce a board 6 inches wide and about 14 inches thick on each side of the ball. The soil immediately under the centre of the ball should be left intact. When the boards are in position ropes are passed under them on each side and led 142 TREES AND SHRUBS up over the rollers on the machine and fastened, and then by levers the ropes are rolled up, swinging the plant up cleanly and with a good ball of soil. Before putting the ropes under, however, a stout piece of canvas or mat should be tied round the ball with a couple of cords, between which and the canvas seven or eight pieces of narrow flat board should be fixed to prevent the cords from cutting the ball. The rear part of the machine is made to be taken out so that it can be pushed right over a plant, and it should be run on planks on soft ground. With the large transplanting machine a ball of soil of almost any size can be taken, but the method of preparing it is somewhat different. It should be made nearly square, being rather longer than it is broad. When the proper depth has been reached make a hole about 2 feet wide under the centre of the ball, and running entirely through the longer way of it. Through this hole one, or even two, broad planks 3 inches thick should be passed. On each end of these, where they project beyond the ball, a stout plank is laid on edge, and two others placed lengthwise to fit above the first two. These planks should all be cut to fit tightly into each other. If necessary, owing to the depth of the ball, another tier of planks should be placed above the first to insure stability. The machine is then placed over the plant, and the whole, by means of chains and levers, is swung up off the ground, and then ready to be taken anywhere. This machine, however, should only be used by those who have had experience with REMOVAL OF LARGE TREES 143 it, as it is difficult and cumbersome to handle, and in the hands of novices is liable to cause serious accidents. Where no transplanting machine exists, other mechanical contrivances must be used to move a large tree. Rollers and planks, a low trolley, or a draw-board, as it is called, are the best. The preparation for removal is the same for these means as it is for a machine, with the exception of getting under it, which varies according to the means em- ployed. For rollers and planks the soil should be worked out directly under the centre of the ball, and planks put through to form a bed to run the shrub or tree on. On these a roller should be placed, working the soil out at the sides so that it is well under the ball, but not going so far under as to undermine it, and cause it to drop over. Above the roller put one wide plank to form the bottom of the ball, and by means of a rope round it the whole can be taken where required. When moving it, however, it is well to raise the rear half by means of a broad lever or a lifting-jack, which, in conjunction with a steady pull on the rope, should start the plant com- fortably on its journey. When a low trolley is used the ball of soil must be firm, and not liable to break to pieces when handled with reasonable care. Having cut out the ball to the required depth, work under it all round, merely leaving enough in the centre to support it. If possible, work off some of the upper soil to decrease the weight, but this depends entirely upon the roots, 144 TREES AND SHRUBS and the way they run. If small roots are plentiful at the top, little or no soil can be removed, but if they are lower down, then the upper soil may be removed with advantage. Having worked under the ball, lay two stout planks under it well packed up to the centre, and then with two strong poles under the ends of the planks lift the whole on the trolley. If the work is carefully thought out, it is possible to make the actual lifting a very small operation by bringing the trolley close and lowering it consider- ably. The draw-board is a handy contrivance for moderate-sized trees or shrubs which will hold a good ball of soil. It is made in two forms, One consists of a piece of well-seasoned oak 3 inches thick, and about 3 feet long by 2 to 24 feet wide at the widest part, from which it slopes down to a thick end, where a stout swivel-ring is fixed to take a rope. The other form is a kind of trolley, and consists of a frame 3 feet long by 2 feet wide; it runs on rollers that work on bent irons fastened to the framework, the whole standing about 4 inches high. Either of these can be used for moving plants the ball of soil attached to which is not larger than the board. They will take a heavy plant with comparative ease, and are especially useful for moving large Rhododendrons and other American shrubs. To get them under a plant cut out the ball of soil to the proper depth, and work under it from the front, that is, the direction in which the plant is to go, keeping the ball wedged up during the process, REMOVAL OF LARGE TREES 145 not by having a man to pull the top over, but by using wedges or levers underneath it, until sufficient soil has been worked out to allow the board to be inserted. When the board is in position the rope should be passed through the ring and then around the collar, using a piece of mat to keep it from rubbing the bark off, and then back through the ring again. It is well to run the board over planks on soft ground to reduce the labour of pulling. In putting the tree or shrub into its new position, carefully measure the size of the ball, and make the hole considerably larger and slightly deeper, break- ing up the bottom well. When the tree or shrub is in position ram the soil tightly round it until it is about two-thirds covered, when the hole should be completely filled with water, covering in the remainder when the water has drained away. The stem must also be made secure by means of stakes or cords, otherwise wind will cause damage to the roots. When the ground is dry under a tree that is to be moved nothing should be done until it has been thoroughly soaked. To do this a trench 2 feet deep and as narrow as possible should be taken out all round, and gradually filled in with water, pouring it in steadily, away from the ball rather than to it, and persevere with this watering till the ball of soil under the tree is thoroughly saturated. Leave it for at least twenty-four hours to drain. Three points must not be forgotten: (1) Wrap the ball of soil securely round with canvas as soon as possible; (2) K 146 TREES AND SHRUBS never use the stem of a tree as a lever in moving the ball—this should always be moved from below, and the stem never touched on any account; (3) always allow plenty of room for working. Moving large trees is not easy and must not be lightly undertaken. It involves much time, labour, and expense, in most cases far more than the trees are worth. Trees 8 or 10 feet high may be easily moved, but above that height the work should be done by an expert. Trees and shrubs of consider- able size can be purchased at a moderate price from good tree nurseries, where they have been regularly transplanted, and if carefully planted will soon make good specimens. It is in the planting of trees that so many failures occur as arule. A good tree may be obtained, arrive in excellent condition, and yet be planted in such a way that success is out of the question. The fault, as a matter of course, is put on the man who sup- plied the tree, not on the one who killed it by improper planting. Those who think of moving Jarge trees or shrubs should not do so until the probable cost has been considered, and the advice and help obtained of some one who has handled big trees before. The expert will be able to say if a tree can bear removal, or whether it is better destroyed, and its- place filled with a young and vigorous specimen from a nursery. YOUNG TREES AND SUNSTROKE IT is most noticeable that the stems of young trees of from 8 to about 14 feet in height are apt in some seasons to get much damaged, so much so that the trees are rarely satisfactory for some years afterwards, even if they do not die outright. The mischief is usually not seen until it is too late to mend matters, and is found more as a rule on young trees with small heads standing out singly than where they are planted amongst undergrowth or in partial shade. If careful notice is taken it will be found that the stems are damaged on the south side, or it may be east or west of south, but never on the north side, and is directly caused by the rays of the sun being too hot for the young stems to bear. The trees most liable to sunstroke—which it practically amounts to—are the Lime, Willow, Horse Chestnut, Sweet Chestnut, Birch, Mountain Ash, Ash, and Plane, and generally in the order they are given, the softer wooded trees suffering more severely than those of harder growth. The Oak, Elm, and Beech are seldom much damaged by the sun, though in cases of failure it will be well to notice the stems and see how far the direct rays of the sun are responsible for the death of the tree. The first marks of sunstroke are seen in the shape 147 148 TREES AND SHRUBS of longitudinal cracks in the bark, which is also slightly browned and flattened, as if there were a hollow beneath. The part affected is from about 1 to 3 feet in length, and from 1 to 3 inches in width. If the bark is cut away the wood beneath will be found perfectly firm, but hard and dry, more like a piece of seasoned wood than part of a growing tree. When such is the case the only thing that can be done is to cut away the bark back to the living tissue, thoroughly coat the wound with gas tar, and shade the stem afterwards with a few branches or something that does not need to be fastened on the stem. Hay or straw bands cannot be altogether recommended, as anything which excludes the light tends to the softening of the young bark. This should be avoided, as the firmer the bark the better will be the ultimate success of the tree. Iron tree-guards, though not beautiful, have the advantage of protecting the stems of young trees from the sun as well as from the attacks of animals. In addition to the slight shade they give, the iron, being a good conductor of heat, takes up a large amount of the heat rays which would otherwise be directed full upon the stem. A hot and dry season is no more likely to cause sunstroke than a wet one, and probably not so much, as we have noticed it in sunless years quite as much as in bright summers. The time when it is most likely to happen is when a few days of hot sunshine follow a spell of wet weather, as the wood is then soft and full of moisture, and is more YOUNG TREES AND SUNSTROKE 149 liable to be scorched than during a period of prolonged sunshine. When trees are planted out singly it is well to choose those with spreading heads and low stems, as then the tree will shade itself to a great extent, the short amount of bare stem being less exposed to the sun’s rays than a taller one. After all, this is only Nature’s method of protection, as, in a wild state, no young tree is bare-stemmed, except in a wood, where it is shaded by those near it. On the edge of a wood, or in the open, young trees are furnished to the ground with foliage, which is not shed until the stem has become hardened enough to withstand climatic vicissitudes. If trees with tall stems are the only ones available, then the stems should be shaded by some means for a year or two, especially when they have become established and are making strong, sappy growths, as the stem is practically in the same condition and apt to be scorched by a sudden burst of hot sunshine. GOAT AND WoobD-LEOPARD MOTHS Sunstroke must not be confounded with the ravages of the caterpillars of the Goat Moth and Wood-Leopard Moth, the external signs of which are much the same, but on the bark being removed one or two channels almost the size of a man’s little finger are to be seen, together with accumula- tions of wet sawdust-like material deposited by the caterpillar. These are exterminated by thrusting a 150 TREES AND SHRUBS stout wire into the channels until the grub is killed, and afterwards cutting away the dead bark and tarring the wound thoroughly. The tree should also be securely staked, otherwise it will probably snap off in the first high wind. SHADE TREES FOR STREETS IN the middle ages it was accounted an act of piety to make or maintain a road or a bridge, or to do anything in connexion with them that would con- duce to the safety or comfort of the wayfarer. The planting of trees for shade, or the placing of a shaded bench for rest came within the same category of pious works. In our days, when rush and hurry and the pressure of business, and the worship of bare utility fill the minds of most men, there are many who have almost forgotten the gracious aspects of the more leisurely life. It is probably from this cause that so many opportunities are lost that might be seized by those in authority for making the lives of our fellow-creatures somewhat easier and pleasanter. In days of extreme heat what a difference in comfort there would be between the bare sun-baked expanses of the streets of many a town, such as we all know, and the same spaces carefully planted with shade-giving trees. In very narrow streets trees are, of course, out of the question, or in any street whose width is not enough to allow of easy traffic and trees as well, but one cannot walk through any town, except the very few in which the question has already been considered and satisfactorily answered, I5t 152 TREES AND SHRUBS without seeing many a street or waste space or corner where a row or a group or even a single tree would not add immensely to both beauty and comfort. Where there is plenty of width, and espe- cially where houses fall back a little from the road, the trees may well stand just within the edge of the footpath or pavement. Should there be still more width, there may be a row in the middle of the road. In this case the middle row of trees should not be quite evenly continuous, but perhaps five or six treés and then a gap, formed by leaving out one tree, in order to allow the traffic to move from side to side of the road. In many a town where a street runs north-east and south-west, a row of trees on its south-western side only might be an inestimable boon. Even in country villages there is often a bare place, especially where roads meet, where a few trees well planted and a plain strong oak bench would be a comfort and a pleasure to many hard- working folk, and might be the means of converting unsightliness into beauty. For towns the Plane has the best character, but other good trees are Wych Elm and Hornbeam, Sycamore, Maple, Lime, Lombardy Poplar, and Horse Chestnut. The spreading growth of the Horse Chestnut commends it rather for a space like the place of a foreign town. Here is also the place for Limes, for though they are good street trees, yet when in bloom the strong, sweet scent, although a passing whiff is delicious, might be an PLANE TREE (Platanus orientalis). SHADE TREES FOR STREETS 153 annoyance if poured continuously into the windows of houses during the blooming time. The Wild Cherry, with its quantity of early bloom, would be a beautiful street tree, and in places where trees of rather smaller growth are desired there is the Bird Cherry and the Mountain Ash. The large American Mountain Ash is a good street tree, in autumn loaded with its handsome bunches of scarlet fruit. The larger Willows are also charming trees for streets. Many of the trees named, if their tops spread too near the houses, may, with good effect, be pollarded about 10 feet from the ground. TREES AND SHRUBS IN SCOTLAND THE following list has been kindly sent me by a great lover of trees and shrubs who lives at Forres. My correspondent writes: ‘I have grown all the plants in my list in my own garden, except Buddleia eglobosa and Araha mandschurica, but the latter is grown in quantity by several of my neighbours, and there are also several fine plants of the Buddleia in many gardens in sheltered spots. My experience is that many plants are quite frost-proof but cannot stand cold winds. This applies more especially to the shrubby Veronicas. I have seen them in the Edinburgh Botanic Gardens as if scorched with fire on the exposed side, while they were untouched where sheltered from the north and east. My own garden is fairly well sheltered.” Amelanchier canadensis—Hardy, free - flowering, beautiful at all times. Aralia (Dimorphanthus) mandschurica.—Useful in some positions for its curious habit of growth and rather handsome foliage ; quite hardy. Aristolochia Sipho.—This has curious and incon- spicuous flowers, which give this climbing plant its popular name of “Dutchman’s Pipe.” It can be grown on a wall, in which position, perhaps, its fine foliage is seen to the best advantage, but it is quite 154 TREES IN SCOTLAND EES hardy and looks well climbing into a thin tree such as the Common Almond, Berberis (Mahonia) Aquifolium.—A handsome plant at all times, and will even grow under the shade of trees. Berberis Darwinti—Very bright in flower. Young and sappy shoots get killed back in winter. Berberis Thunbergi—A most attractive Berberis ; it makes a small neat-growing bush to which the adjective “sparkling” might be applied. Its chief glory is its autumnal foliage, and a large clump in September is “a sight to see”; quite hardy. Berberts vulgaris.—Very beautiful when clustered with fruit. The purple-leaved variety (B. v. purpurea) is most useful for its foliage. Betula purpurea.—A good foliage tree. Buddleia globosa—-This does well in a warm sheltered spot facing south-west, where the morning sun in winter will not touch it too soon. It also objects to exposure to cold winds. Calycanthus floridus.—Quite hardy, and grows well in half-shady places. Ceanothus azureus.—This succeeds either trained to a wall or as a bush. In the latter case it should be in a sheltered position. It seems quite frost-proof, and its blue flowers are very beautiful at a time when few shrubs are in bloom (July and August). Its shoots should be well thinned, and those left shortened as soon as the buds begin to show signs of movement in the spring. The best form I have tried is Gloire de Versailles. 156 TREES AND SHRUBS Choisya ternata (Mexican Orange Flower).—This is well worth growing as a bush in a sheltered angle of a wall, where it can be protected in winter with a hurdle or some such contrivance, lightly thatched with Broom. It is even then, in very severe weather, cut about the points of the shoots, which, of course, spoils the blooming ; but it soon grows through again, and it is worth growing for its foliage alone. Clematis——These mostly do well, and the newer sorts are very attractive, but for all purposes it is very hard to beat C. montana and C. Jackmani, the former in May and the latter for the autumn. Clethra alnifolia.—A neat and free-flowering shrub, with spikes of white flowers in August; it is very hardy and useful, as few shrubs are in flower at that time. Cornus alba.—A clump of this Dogwood is very effective in winter, especially when the sun is shining on its bright-red shoots. C. a. Spethi is a good varie- gated variety. Corylus purpurea.—A good purple-leaved tree. Cotoneaster microphylla—Quite hardy either as a bush or on a wall. Cytisus albus—No garden should be without this beautiful Broom. C. precox, the Cream Broom, is a dwarfer but no less beautiful variety; it is very pretty grouped with a few plants of C. purpureus, which flowers at the same time. Another fine Broom is the red and yellow variety of the Common Broom (C. scoparius andreanus). The Brooms will grow any- where, but prefer an open place in full sun. They CYTISUS PR:ECON (Spring). A VARIETY OF MAHALEB CHERRY (Prunus Mahaleb, var. chrysocarpa). TREES IN SCOTLAND 157 should be cut hard back after flowering, and if the young seed-pods can be picked off so much the better. Daphne Cneorum.—A bright little shrub best grown on the rock garden; quite hardy. Daphne Laureola—tThis has fine foliage and will grow in quite a shady place. Daphne Mezereum—A_ beautiful early -flowering Daphne, too well known for description. Deuizia crenata.—A most useful hardy shrub, grow- ing to a good size. The variety, Pride of Rochester, is very pretty. Diervilla (Wegela)—I\ndispensable shrubs, very hardy, free-flowering, and easily grown. The flower- ing shoots should be cut back to strong young wood as soon as the flowers fade. They are most accom- modating in this respect, as the strongest of the young shoots start well back and not at the points, as is usual with most plants. Good varieties are Eva Rathke, Hortensis nivea, and rosea. Escallonia macrantha.—A good wall shrub. Escallonia philippiana.—Hardier than E. macrantha, and can be grown as a bush in a sheltered spot. Forsythia suspensa.—Quite hardy, and very beau- tiful in early spring, as it flowers before the leaf-buds burst. It should be cut back to young growths after the flower is over. Garrya elliptica.— Quite hardy as a bush. Fuchsia Riccartoni.—This_ gets cut down every winter, but is never killed, and it flowers abundantly every year treated as a hardy herbaceous plant. 158 TREES AND SHRUBS Genista tinctoria fl. pl.—A low-growing trailing Genista, useful for the rock garden and flowering when many of the alpines are over. Genista virgata—A very different plant to the above, and will make a very large bush, covered with pale-yellow flowers in late summer. A good shrub. Halesia tetraptera.— Quite hardy and attractive both in bloom and foliage. Hamamelis arborea,—This is quite hardy, but grows very slowly. It flowers in a small state, but not very freely. I have only had this plant for four years, but I think it will do very well, and should flower more freely when a bit larger. Hedysarum multjugum—Quite hardy. An attractive shrub, with spikes of reddish pea-like flowers in July and August. It increases freely from the root by suckers. Thin and cut back the shoots in spring. Helianthemum vulgare (Rock Rose).—There are many garden varieties of this, both double and single, the single sorts being the most attractive. They are quite hardy on a warm and sunny rock garden. Hydrangea paniculata—Hardy. A splendid low- growing shrub, flowering in autumn. A group of this, with a few plants of Prunus Pissardi cut hard back every spring to keep them small, is very effective, and the group can be carpeted with Lily of the Valley or London Pride to cover the bare soil under- neath. The shoots of the Hydrangea should be well thinned, and those left cut hard back in the spring. It well repays a dose or two of liquid manure in the TREES IN SCOTLAND 159 growing season. The variety, grandiflora, is better than the type. Hypericum calycinum (Rose of Sharon).—Grows well in half shade. It is a dwarf plant, very pretty, but perhaps too often seen. Useful for carpeting other shrubs. Jasminum nudiflorum.—Best on a wall. Winter flowering (yellow) and very pretty when in bloom. Jasminum officinale—Requires a wall, but does well while young. It is not a very long-lived plant here. Kalmia latifolia—Very attractive pink flowers ; hardy, and will do wherever Rhododendrons flourish. Kerria japonica—A pretty yellow-flowered shrub that increases rapidly from the root. The double- flowered variety is the most commonly grown. Laburnum.—Too well known for description. L. Adami is curious and worth growing. Lavendula Spica.—The Lavender needs no de- scription. Leycesteria formosa——A good plant for a shady place. It grows well under trees, and is very hardy. Liriodendron tulipifera—Grows well here, and is quite hardy, but seldom flowers so far north. Ligustrum ovalifolium (Privet)—The golden form of this is good and bright. Lonicera periclymenum.—The common native Honey- suckle is an indispensable climber, and will grow almost anywhere ; but looks best, perhaps, climbing up trees, or over shrubs or hedges. The variety, 160 TREES AND SHRUBS serotina, flowers later than the type, and is best known under the name of Late Dutch. L. Sulhvanti is a shrubby sort, with not unattractive flowers of a brownish-orange colour. Magnolia.—The only one I have tried is M. stellata, which has proved quite hardy, and I have no doubt that several others would do quite as well in sheltered places. Netllia opulifolia (Spirea opulifolia).—Quite hardy. Pernettya mucronata.— Does well. Pieris (Andromeda) floribunda—tIs quite hardy and very beautiful early in the year. Will grow in soils that suit Rhododendrons. Potentilla fruticosa.—A little summer-flowering shrub, with yellow flowers. It does well on the upper parts of the rock garden, and is quite hardy. Padus (Cerasus) Mahaleb pendula.—A very attractive little weeping tree, with small white flowers in spring. Pyrus.—The following do well here: P. Malus floribunda, P. coronaria, P. lobata (syn. Mespilus grandi- flora), and, of course, the native Rowan tree (P. Aucuparia). The family of Apples enjoy a well- drained place, being impatient of too much wet at the roots ; otherwise, their culture is of the simplest. They should be allowed to grow as they will, only cutting out any branches that would be obviously better away, and dead wood if any. Rhododendrons and Azaleas \uxuriate here. The common &. fonticum sows itself in the woods. I have not yet tried the Himalayan Rhododendrons,. but from what I have seen of them in the Edinburgh TREES IN SCOTLAND 161 Botanic Gardens, which are much exposed to cold winds, I feel fairly certain I could grow them here, where I can give them more protection. Rhodotypus kerrioides——A very pretty hardy shrub, flowering on and off all the summer. It has very clean white flowers, and from appearances looks as though a cross with Kerria might be successful. The Rhodotypus seeds freely here. It grows to a good size. Rhus Cotinus.—Another good shrub, attractive either in flower or foliage, and the latter turns to a good colour in autumn. Ribes——No garden should be without a plant of the Common Ribes. I also grow Aureum and a pale pinkish-white sort. Robinia hispida (Rose Acacia).—This is doing well in a corner sheltered from the north, east, and west by evergreens. Roses.—The best that I grow as shrubs (in the garden sense) are the Penzance Briars, Rosa rugosa (Japanese Rose), Austrian Briars, R. spinosissima, Blairit I1., Charles Lawson, R. macrantha, R. alpina, &c. These Roses stand up and make a good bush in a sheltered place, without staking or any other trouble. Very little pruning is needful, and that after the flowers are over, cutting out weak wood and shortening some of the old shoots back to where young ones are breaking vigorously. Rubus deliciosus—Very pretty white flowers, large for a bramble. It appears to be quite hardy, but is not a very strong grower. L 162 TREES AND SHRUBS Ruscus aculeatus (Butcher's Broom),.— An incon- spicuous little shrub that grows well under trees. Spartium junceum (Spanish Broom).—A good shrub for a sheltered bank; it has spikes of bright-yellow flowers in July. Spirea.—Most of the Spirzeas do well here. The following are the best of those I grow: S. canescens, very pretty habit of growth and foliage ; S. discolor (ariefolia), S. japonica (vars. alba, bumalda, and Anthony Waterer), the last-mentioned very good. S. lindley- ana, a large grower, handsome both in flower and foliage. S. prunifolia fl. pl. should be in all gardens ; good both for flowers and autumnal foliage. S. Van Houttei, very good. LExochorda grandiflora, often known as Spirwa grandiflora, | have had since 1898, but though it is now a large bush and very healthy, it has not yet made any attempt to flower. Syringa (Lilacs).—These are indispensable. Some of the newer varieties are good, such as Charles X., rosy lilac; Marie Legraye, white; Souv. de L. Spath, reddish ; Mme. Lemoine, double white. These should always be procured on their own roots. Grafted plants seldom live long. Viburnum Opulus sterilis,— This, the well-known Snowball tree, and Y% Tinus (Laurustinus), are the only two I have grown. Both do well, and I fancy V. plicatum and some others would do also. I shall try them. Vitis Cognetie—I have this growing up the outer branches of a Spanish Chestnut. It does not grow very fast, but is making steady progress. It appears TREES IN SCOTLAND 163 to be perfectly hardy, and its fine foliage turns to a magnificent colour in autumn. Veronica.—Several of the shrubby Veronicas do well. V. Traversi is the hardiest of all. In the Edin- burgh Botanic Gardens there is a good collection of these. TREES AND SHRUBS IN EDINBURGH Trees and shrubs that will thrive near Edinburgh will do so in almost any exposed city or town simi- larly situated. Only those that have proved adapt- able to this windswept district have been included, an asterisk being placed against the more beautiful and interesting species and varieties that are happy in cold and windy gardens. ACERS.—A. Pseudo-platanus is the “ Plane” of Scot- land. Old trees form features of great beauty. It reaches a height of 60 to 70 feet, often less when isolated. A, P. var. flavo-marginatum*—The original tree of this variety still remains at Corstorphine, near Edinburgh. It is very effective in spring, but the foliage becomes much duller during summer. A, P. purpureum. A. campestre (Common Maple). A. circinatum*—This is the most beautifully-coloured tree we have in autumn. A. platanoides* (Norway Maple)—This is to be preferred to either the Syca- more or Common Maple for planting in pleasure- grounds and gardens. A. dasycarpum.* A. palma- tum*— The varieties of this are excellent although 164 TREES AND SHRUBS slow growing. A. rubrum. A. pictum. A. opulifolium obtusatum*— A bright tree in early spring with its golden-green foliage and flowers. A. saccharinum (Sugar Maple). A. japonicum and varieties. ACTINIDIA KOLOMIKTA.—Climber ; grows quickly on south wall. HORSE CHESTNUT (4sculus Hippocastanum) and others: carnea, Pavia, parviflora, flava. AILANTUS GLANDULOSA (Tree of Heaven). AMELANCHIER VULGARIS and A. canadensis.*— Very ornamental. Seldom seen, but as free-growing and flowering as the Hawthorn. ANDROMEDA POLIFOLIA.*—-Dwarf height, about one foot. Very beautiful shrub for peat beds. ARBUTUS ANDRACHNE.—Flowers in February and March. ARCTOSTAPHYLOS ALPINA.—Plenty of this found in north of Scotland, but somewhat difficult to establish in gardens. A. Uva-ursi—Freer in growth than the preceding. Both species are low-creeping shrubs suitable for planting with Heaths in peat. ARALIA SPINOSA * and A. chinensis. ARISTOLOCHIA SIPHO (Dutchman’s Pipe).—Large effective climber. ARTEMISIA ABROTANUM, arborescens, and tridentata.* —Useful shrubs of grey tone. AUCUBA JAPONICA and varieties.* AZARA MICROPHYLLA® and A. dentata. BERBERIS AQUIFOLIUM,* Darwinti, vulgaris, ne- palensis. Single specimens of B. Aguifolium, the Mahonia, become very ornamental with age. TREES IN SCOTLAND 165 BETULA ALBA* (the Silver Birch).—A very hardy tree, beautiful both in summer and winter. The pendulous variety is the best. Its branches are proof against all winds. No tree is so well adapted for planting close up to houses in the city, for it is very graceful, and obscures little light.- B. utilis, B. papyrifera, B. populifolia. BRYANTHUS EMPETRIFORMIS.*—Very fine planted in broad masses. JB. erectus—Very beautiful in small beds. Box* and varieties. CALYCANTHUS FLORIDUS.—This is excellent on walls. CAMELLIAS only flower here on walls in the open. They form large bushes in the grounds. Camellia Thea, the tea-plant, is also perfectly hardy. CARMICHALIA FLAGELLIFORMIS.*—Very interest- ing, and flowering with great freedom. CARPENTERIA CALIFORNICA.*—A splendid plant for south walls, large established specimens having a profusion of large white flowers. CaRPINUS BETULUS* and varieties. CARYOPTERIS MASTACANTHUS,—A_ good wall plant. CaSSIOPE FASTIGIATA® and C. fetragona.*—Both are very choice subjects here and flower well. CASTANEA SATIVA* (Sweet or Spanish Chestnut). —Ornamental, but does not ripen fruit here. CEANOTHUS AMERICANUS and veitchianus.* Splendid. CERCIS SILIQUASTRUM* (Judas tree). CHIMONANTHUS FRAGRANS (Winter-sweet).— Wall. 166 TREES AND SHRUBS CHOISYA TERNATA (Mexican Orange Flower). Cistus.*—These are very fine, and flower for months if somewhat sheltered. CLEMATIS.—Of these very charming are alpina,* aptfolia, Flammula,* heracleefolia, Vitalba.* COLLETIA CRUCIATA. COLUTEA ARBORESCENS and melanocalyx. CONVOLVULUS CNEORUM.*—Very pretty plant for a south wall; silvery foliage and white flowers. CorNus (Dogwood).—Of these, a/ba and varieties, Kousa, florida, sanguinea (very ornamental in winter), Mas and m. variegata* (a very choice, variegated shrub), are the best. CORYLOPSIS PAUCIFLORA and C. sficata.—Both do well on a south wall. CoRYLUS AVELLANA and purpurea.*—One of the most effective shrubs if used carefully. COTONEASTERS.— Of these, buxifolia, Simonsti, thymt- folia,* microphylla,* horizontalis* (a species with peculiar spreading flat branches, producing a fine effect if grown on sloping banks), are the most note- worthy. HAWTHORN. — Crategus monogyna, Oxyacantha,* also the ordinary white single form, are valuable hardy trees, flowering at the end of June to July. CyTisus (Broom).—Of this beautiful family, a/bus,* Ardoini,* biflorus,* decumbens,* nigricans, precox,* purpureus,* scoparius and varieties,* are all splendid growers for dry, sunny situations. DaBeciaA.—Polifolia,* alba,* bicolor,* the Irish Heaths, are beautiful in small beds and rockeries. TREES IN SCOTLAND 167 DAPHNE.—Of this delightful family, bd/agayana,* Cneorum,* var. majus,* Laureola, Mezereum and varie- ties.* DEUTZIA GRACILIS * and D. scabra. ELZAGNUS ARGENTEA,* E. multiflora,* and E. pungens.* EMPETRUM NIGRUM.*—This plant is useful for mixing with Heaths. ENKIANTHUS HIMALAICUS.*—The finest species of the genus. Attractive. HeatHs.—Of these, E. carnea,* c. alba,* ciliaris,* cinerea,* Mackaii,* mediterranea,* multiflora, stricta,* Tetralix and varieties,* vagans and varieties,* Wat- sont.* ERIOGONUM UMBELLATUM.—A very fine plant for covering banks, ESCALLONIA.—Of these, £. exonitensis,* macrantha,* philippiana,* are very valuable, either for walls or as small bushes. EUCRYPHIA PINNATIFOLIA.*—A very beautiful but slow-growing hardy shrub. Evonymus.—Of this family note should be made of E. americanus, E. europeus, E. radicans.* The variegated and other forms of these shrubs are very welcome. EXOCHORDA GRANDIFLORA (Pearl Bush). FABIANA IMBRICATA.* —A_ striking evergreen shrub for a wall. Facus (Beech).—F. ferruginea and sylvatica* and varieties. FORSYTHIA SUSPENSA® and F. viridissima. 168 TREES AND SHRUBS FRAXINUS EXCELSIOR™ (the Ash), also the Manna Ash (F.Ornus),* Fucusia RICCARTONI.*—Flowers for a very long time, and is very hardy. GENISTA.—Of these, G. anglica, hispantca, pilosa, sagittalis, tinctoria. GLEDITSCHIA TRIACANTHOS. HAMAMELIS (Witch or Wych Hazel).—H. arborea,* Japonica,* virginica. HYDRANGEA PANICULATA. * — Magnificent when established. HyYPEricuM.—Of these, H. Androsemum, hookeri- anum, moserianum* (the best of the genus for small beds). ILeEx.—Of the Hollies, 2. Aguifolium and many varieties, J. cornuta,* I. Dahoon,* I. crenata,* and I. latifolia* succeed best. JASMINES.—/. fruticans and J. nudiflorum.* The last-named should be grown as a small bush as well as on walls. Also J. officinale* and varieties. A golden-leaved form of this species merits attention from its foliage alone. JUGLANS (Walnut) REGIA.—Grows fairly well, but no fruit of value. LAaBURNUM.—Both L. alpinum and L. vulgare.* LAVENDER. LeDuM.—Of this family, Z. latifohum* and L. palustre.* LEUCOTHOE RECURVA. LEYCESTERIA FORMOSA. LIQUIDAMBAR STYRACIFLUA.* TREES IN SCOTLAND 169 LIRIODENDRON TULIPIFERA (Tulip tree*).—Grows into a very handsome tree. LONICERA.—Of the Honeysuckles the best are L. Caprifolium,* L. fragrantissima, L. Periclymenum,* L. japonica,* L. Standishi, L. Xylosteum, L. Lede- bourtt. LUPINUS ARBOREUS * and varieties (Tree Lupine). —Best on walls. MaGNOLias.—Of these, 7. acuminata,* the Cucum- ber tree, flowers freely. J. grandiflora* is only for sheltered walls, and 1. Fraseri, M. conspicua, M. stellata, M. Watsoni* for sheltered places. MORUS NIGRA (Black Mulberry) and &. alba. OLEARIA Haastil.*—The best August flowering shrub. O. macrodonta and stellulata.* OSMANTHUS AQUIFOLIUM.* PERNETTYA MUCRONATA. * — Effective both in flower and berry. PHILADELPHUS (Mock Orange).—P. coronarius * and varieties and microphyllus. PHLOMIS FRUTICOSA. PIERIS FLORIBUNDA.*—Very free flowering. P. japonica variegata* —Effective. PLATANUS ACERIFOLIA (Plane).— These appear hardy, but are not popular. They are slower in growth than most trees. PopuLus (Poplar).—P. alba, P. balsamifera (Bal- sam Poplar), P. nigra (Black Poplar), and P. tremula. POTENTILLA FRUTICOSA* (Shrubby Cinquefoil).— Well deserves more attention. 170 TREES AND SHRUBS PrRuNus.—Of these, the Cherry and Bird Cherry,* Plum,* Bullace,* and the beautiful P. ¢riloba are a success. PTELEA TRIFOLIATA. Pyrus.—P. Aria®* (the White Beam tree), P. Aucu- paria* (Mountain Ash), P. japonica,* P. rotundifolia,* P. Sorbus * (Service tree). QUERCUS (Oak).—The most satisfactory species are Q. sessilifolia,* and Q. pedunculata. These gene- rally thrive well and are amongst the most beauti- ful of trees for large gardens. In poor soil and windswept places the British Oaks do not grow more than about 4o feet in height, but develop into picturesque features. Their foliage here is of a pleasing green when that of the Beech and Syca- more is past its best. Very few acorns are pro- duced. Q. Cerris,* the Turkey Oak, and its variety laciniata,* and Q. lucombeana,* are also beautiful trees. We must also mention the Evergreen Oak (Q. Jlex),* alba, palustris, laurifolia, coccinea (Scarlet Oak), Suber (Cork Oak), conferta. RHODODENDRON.—Of the Rhododendrons the following are satisfactory: R. altaclerense, Anthopogon, arborescens, arboreum Campbellice, azaleoides, blandyanum, calendulaceum, campanulatum, campylocarpum, catawbtense, caucasicum,* ciliatum, cinnabarinum,* ferrugineum,* ful- gens, glaucum,* hirsutum*® and varieties, indicum bal- samineflorum, lancifolium, lepidotum,* myrtifolium,* nobleanum,* n. album,* ponticum* (many varieties), preecox,* punctatum, racemosum, Rhodora, sinensis* (azalea mollis), Vaseyi,* Wailsont. These are the principal TREES IN SCOTLAND 171 Rhododendrons that thrive and flower well here. No other shrubs give such a long and varied flower display. RIBES.—R. alpinum, aureum, and rubrum. R. san- guinea* and its varieties are the principal ornamental currants. ROBINIA PsEuDACACcIA.*—An elegant foliage tree, and usually the last to break into leaf. Rosa.—Practically all the Tea and Hybrid Per- petual Roses can be grown, if sheltered spots are chosen and the plants grown as dwarfs. However, the stronger varieties are the most satisfactory ones, and in bad seasons it is July before they commence to flower, although September has well advanced before they cease. The hybrid Sweet Briars are the freest of all to grow. Groups form thickets of foliage which are almost hidden with blossom. Rosa wichuriana covers banks, or anything somewhat flat, in a very short time. It flowers through Sep- tember, and attracts great attention. Such tender Roses as Maréchal Niel, Niphetos, and Banksian are useless. ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS (Rosemary). Rupus.—Of these, R. arcticus, dwarf; R. lacinatus,* R. nutkanus.* R. deliciosus* is a beautiful shrub, and should be left alone after planting. Ruscus (Butcher’s Broom).—R. aculeatus and R. Hypoglossum. SaLix (Willow).—S. alba, babylonica (Babylonian Willow), and pendula, a lovely tree. S. Caprea* (Goat Willow), fragilis, herbacea (the Alpine Willow, not 172 TREES AND SHRUBS much larger than the Wild Thyme), Lapponum, nigra, Pauline, reticulata, rubra, viminalis. SKIMMIA FORTUNE! and S. japonica.* SamBucus (Elder).—S. canadensis, nigra, racemosus. Sprr@as.—Of these, S. bella, bullata, canescens, de- cumbens, cantoniensis,* discolor,* japonica, var. Bumalda,* tomentosa, var. alba. STAPHYLEA COLCHICA. SYMPHORICARPUS RACEMOSUS (Snowberry). SYRINGA (Lilac)—S. persica* (Persian Lilac), and S. vulgaris* and varieties. TAMARIX.—TZ. gallica, T. hispida, and T. odessana,* a very fine August flowering shrub. Tita (Lime).—T. argentea, T. cordata, T. platyphylios, and T. vulgaris,* the best of all. ULEX (Furze).—JU. europeus and var. fl. pl.* ULmus (Elm).—U. campestris * and U. montana.* VACCINIUMS.—Of these choose V. arboreum, V. corymbosum, V. Myrtillus, and V. pennsylvanicum,* very fine for drooping over rocks in rock garden; V. Vitis-idea and the variety variegata, a pretty variety of this native shrub. VERONICA.—Of these the most satisfactory are V. amplexicaulis,* Armstrongii,* buxtfolia,* chathamica,* Colensot,* cupressoides,* c. variabilis*—-grown in poor soil and well exposed, this variety of V. cupressoides is very fine both in summer and winter—decumbens,* epacridea,* glauco-cerulea,* Hectori,* Kirkit,* ligustri- folia,* monticola,* pimeleoides,* pinguifolia,* rakaiensis,* salicifolia,* Traversii.* The above are hardy Veronicas. They also happily include many of the best. Other OR SNOWBALL TREE. GUELDER ROSE ROW. WYCH ELMS BY HEDGE TREES IN SCOTLAND 173 species are good plants out of doors during summer ; they are, however, best lifted early in October and housed till May, or they may be covered in severe weather. Cold winds do most mischief. VIBURNUM OPULUS (Guelder Rose) and varieties, V. O. sterilis,* and V. tomentosum plicatum.* ViTIs (Vines).—Of these the best are V. Coignetie,* V. heterophylla,* V. Labrusca,* and V. riparia.* Vinca (Periwinkle).—V. major * and V. minor * and varieties. Yucca.— Y. acutifolia, Y. filamentosa,* and Y. gloriosa.* BAMBOOS.—These require sheltered positions and good deep soil. The following have proved to be the best out of a considerable number: Arundinaria * var. variegata,* falcata,* Hindsit,* auricoma,* Fortunet, japonica,* nitida,* pumila,* Veitchit,* Simoni variegata,* Bambusa palmata,* B. tessellata,* Phyllostachys aurea,* bambusoides,* boryana,* flexuosa,* mitis,* nigra,* Quiloi,* viridt-glaucescens.* CONIFERS.—These are only useful when young— at least, the majority of them. It is impossible to keep them symmetrical against strong cold winds, and the deposits of soot upon their foliage are injurious. When Conifers are wished for as large trees, the Cedar of Lebanon, Atlantic Cedar, Pinus sylvestris, Pinus Pinaster, ot Cupressus lawsoniana are suitable. When Abies and Picea lose their symmetry they are usually far from ornamental. All the species and beautiful varieties of Cupressus, Thuya, and Juniperus 174 TREES AND SHRUBS are very valuable in a young state. They should be replaced as they become thin and shabby, as they soon do in exposed places. The most satisfactory tree of all is the Yew. Even this hardy tree has its foliage badly hurt by severe winds, but the damage is soon made good. TENDER SHRUBS AND TREES IN THE SOUTH-WEST THE possibilities that exist of the successful open- air culture of tender subjects in the south-west are but little dreamt of by the majority of English flower- lovers. They doubtless read with interest the accounts in the horticultural press of Australian, Chilian, and Californian flowering trees and shrubs growing in their native habitats, and possibly feel a desire to visit these climes in order that they may verify with their own eyes the truth of their readings. As a matter of fact, however, a lengthy sea-voyage is by no means indispensable in order to view certain of these exotics flourishing in the open air, for a few hours’ journey by rail will bring the passenger to a land where many of these denizens of other climes may be seen enjoying robust health under English skies. The following list of tender shrubs and trees growing in the gardens of the south-west cannot claim to be an exhaustive one, since it contains only such as have been personally noticed in good health during rambles along the southern coast-line of Cornwall and Devon, and, where no lengthened inspection is possible, it is obvious that certain species and varieties must be overlooked. Incomplete, however, 175 176 TREES AND SHRUBS as it doubtless is, it should give an idea of the climatic advantages enjoyed by the district in question. Many of the subjects mentioned are growing in Tresco Abbey gardens, Isles of Scilly, but most of these are also found in mainland gardens as well. Where any have been met with at Tresco only, the fact is noted, but these may also be present on the mainland. The soil of the Scillies, which is composed apparently of peat and disintegrated granite, and is almost identical with much of that around Penzance, is admirably adapted for hard-wooded Australian, New Zealand, and Chilian shrubs and trees, and almost all the species and genera enumerated would be best suited by a compost in which peat and leaf- mould and granite sand formed the chief proportion, although it must be allowed that some alluded to have been found to succeed equally well in sandy loam. Porosity in the soil is indispensable, for, in this district, where the winter rains are often ex- ceptionally heavy, unless the water percolates rapidly through the ground, stagnant moisture collects around the roots, a condition which is absolutely fatal to success. The advantages of the Cornish granite sand are gradually being appreciated. Mr. Fitz- herbert writes, ‘I was told the other day by an acquaintance that since he had imported it by the truck-load to his Sussex garden he was able to grow many things successfully that he had before failed with.” TENDER SHRUBS IN SOUTH-WEST 177 ABELIA FLORIBUNDA.— Mexico. A beautiful ever- green shrub, bearing clusters of drooping pink flowers about 3 inches in length. Requires a sunny and sheltered site. Finest specimen 6 feet. Several gardens. ABUTILON VEXILLARIUM.—Rio Grande. A hand- some evergreen species generally grown against a wall. It throws up long, slender, arching shoots from 6 to 8 feet in length, studded with pendulous ball-shaped flowers with crimson sepals, yellow petals, and dark-brown stamens which are very striking and often remain in bloom for six months. Common. A. vitifoium— Chili. A most ornamental ever- green shrub of which there are two forms, one bearing lavender flowers, the other white. In excep- tional cases it attains a height of 20 feet, and when covered with its large blossoms, which are about 3 inches in diameter, and feathered to the ground with foliage, it presents a lovely picture. Large specimens form pyramids of bloom, and in some gardens numbers of these are to be found. Wall protection unnecessary. Acacias.—Australia. In Cornish and South Devon gardens many species are to be met with in robust health.