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THREE VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST.
(‘woyueqaq hq paydnsbojoygZ)
‘SAU SWIIVHIVA ,,
THREE VOYAGES
OF A
NATURALIST
BEING AN ACCOUNT OF
MANY LITTLE-KNOWN ISLANDS IN THREE
OCEANS VISITED BY THE “VALHALLA” R.Y.S.
BY
M. J. NICOLL
MEMBER OF THE BRITISH ORNITHOLOGISTS’ UNION
WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY
Tut Rr. Hon. THE EARL OF CRAWFORD
K.T. F.R.S.
WITH FIFTY-SIX PLATES FOUR SKETCH-MAPS AND TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS
WITHERBY & CO.
326 HIGH HOLBORN LONDON
1908
CONTENTS.
Introductory Note =
Preface - - - - -
A VOYAGE ROUND AFRICA.
CHAP
1.—St. Paul’s Rocks - -
IJ.—Fernando de Noronha - - -
III.—Itaparica, Bahia -
IV.—South Trinidad - -
V.—Martin Vas - -
Vi.—Tristan da Cunha
VIT.—Dassen Island
VITI.—Mozambique Channel and Comoro
Islands - - -
[X.—La Forét d’Ambre, Madagascar
X.—Glorioso Island
XJI.—Assumption Island
XII.—Aldabra Island -
XII.—Seychelle Islands -
A VoyaGE TO THE WesT INDIES.
XIV.—Martinique -
XV.—Grand Cayman Island - -
XVI.—Little Cayman Island - - .
PAGE.
100
107
114
125
139
144
152
va VV Psan Vv 42 AVAL ER UV avians
A VoyaGE ROUND THE WORLD.
CHAP,
XVII.—Monte Video and the Straits of Magellan
XVIUI.—Punta Arenas, Straits of Magellan
XIX.—Smythe’s Channel—Gulf of Pefias—
Valparaiso
XX.—Easter Island
XXI.—Pitcairn Island
XXIT.—Tahiti, Society Islands
XXIII.—Tutuila Island, Samoa -
XXIV.—Upolu Island, Samoa
PAGE.
157
165
175
192
207
215
226
231
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Facine
Pace
Frontispiece—‘ Valhalla,” R.Y.S.
The Earl of Crawford and the live Birds and
Animals collected in 1906 = bes s RVI
Sacred Ibises (about two months old) from Dassen
Island... ae = . XXUil.
Sacred Ibises (about four sticuitis old) from Diseck
Island... ee bh va XKXVI.
St. Paul’s Rocks, sie Aaiintic ba - 5
Some of the Sharks caught off St. Paul’s Rooks a 9
Frigate birds on Glorioso Island) .. wa we 216
Camp on Itaparica Island .. : 21
Sketch of a Marine Animal, seen iy Mr. E. G. B.
Meade-Waldo and the Author off the Coast of
Brazil... : es a oe <22
The Lake, Itaparica 1slsel ot . 29
South Trinidad Island, near the landing nilnes .. 36
Tree-ferns on South Trinidad Island si . 39
Noddy Tern at the nest, South Trinidad elspa 41
Petrels on South Trinidad Island. Downy young
of Cstrelata trinitatis, and adults of
@. arminjoniana ve 43
Crawford’s White Tern at its restlee place on
South Trinidad Island . = 46
Adult and young of Sula piscator on South
Trinidad Island . we -. 48
The ‘‘ Crown ”’ rock, South Trinidad mien #3 50
VII VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
Facine
Pace
South Trinidad Island, from the highest peak .. 52
The tree-fern forest, South Trinidad Island fy Bi
The Islets of Martin Vas... 3 a .. 60
Tristan da Cunha... a ac Ss .. 64
Jackass Penguin on the nest i i . = 73
Jackass Penguins, Dassen Island .. a . 75
Jackass Penguins, Dassen Island .. a 77
Cape Cormorants, with sacred Ibises in the ee:
ground, Dassen Island .. “6 a .. 78
Jackass Penguins, Dassen Island .. a .. 80
Virgin forest, Mayotte Island ag se .. 85
Forét d’Ambre, Madagascar. . : .. 89
The edge of the Forét d’Ambre, Asaaakonn .. 90
Forét d’Ambre, Madagascar. . vie bs L295
Forét d’Ambre, Madagascar. . ae bse .. 96
Landing at Glorioso Island .. = a sag. 100
Glorioso Island - ste 3 : .. 103
Glorioso Island a ty - ae .. 105
Assumption Island .. as .. 108
Nest of Pink-footed Gannet (Sula pica on
Assumption Island as es fs .. 112
Abbott’s Ibises on Aldabra Island .. ae .. 114
Abbott’s [bises on Aldabra Island .. i eevee 887)
Abbott’s Ibises on Aldabra Island .. = ze JMS
River near Port Victoria, Mahé, Seychelles oe “LZ
Mahé Island, Seychelles - - = a: Wi3
Cascade, Mahé, Seychelles. Home of the Alec-
troenas pulcherrima a Me bs wa 24
Water-worn granite rocks, summit of Mahé,
Seychelles i : .. 126
Landing place, Felicité iaiend, Seecielie.. oe 228
ILLUSTRATIONS
Valley of the ‘‘Coco-de-Mer,” Praslin Island,
Seychelles
‘* Coco-de-Mer,” Praslin idler Savaislie:
‘* Coco-de-Mer,” Praslin Island, Seychelles
St. Pierre, Martinique, one year after the eruptions
Leaf Insects from the Seychelles :
Female Leaf Insect from the Seychelles .. wa
Tierra-del-Fuegians alongside the ‘“ Valhalla ” in
Smythe’s Channel
Gray’s Harbour, Straits of ‘iceilars
Gray’s Harbour, Straits of Magellan
Human Skulls from Easter Island ..
Pitcairn Island
Wooden house built by the INiwbiissaee ‘of the
“ Bounty,” Pitcairn Island
Tautira, Tahiti
SKETCH-MAPS OF THE VOYAGES.
Sketch-map of Voyage round Africa
Sketch-map of Voyage to the West Indies
Sketch-map of the first part of the Voyage round
the World
Sketch-map of the songne oat of aia. Novas
round the World
IX
Facine
Pace
130
132
135
139
142
146
165
185
188
192
208
212
220
INTRODUCTORY NOTE.
By THE Ricut Hon. THE EARL oF CRAWFORD,
KT, EBS.
It is usually supposed that when a man takes
upon himself to write a Preface or an Introduction
to the work of another, he should have some
qualification—some knowledge of the subject to
be dealt with. It is best, therefore, that I do at
once disavow any qualification, and confess to a
lamentable ignorance on the subject of Natural
History. My only desire is to relate in a few
words how it came to pass that the possibility
of the writing of the book arose.
For many years it has been my lot to live in
close communion with two inseparable hangers-on
—the one rheumatism, the other asthma. I
found relief by going to sea, provided it was
towards the Sunny South. The cold and damp
of a home winter I have not faced for fifteen
years.
In 1902 I was preparing to go round the world
when one of my brother trustees of the British
Museum suggested that I ought to bring back
x1 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
something for the Natural History Department.
The result was that I was strongly recommended
to obtain the assistance of Mr. Michael Nicoll.
Such was the beginning of a friendship which
has endured the severest known test—that of
living together at peace on a ship through long
calms.
We have had three voyages, in the course of
which we have passed many southern seas, calling
at various islands, and always adding to the store
for the Museum—thus sailing down the east coast
of South America through the Straits of Magellan
up to Valparaiso in Chili, we struck out west for
an eight thousand mile run across the Southern
Pacific Ocean, visiting islands new to us all, each
more charming than the other, and so home after
going round the world. Again, we fitted out for
a less ambitious cruise in the West Indies and
the Gulf of Mexico.
How we again set forth for the wilder and less
known Southern Indian Ocean, taking on the
way the islands of the South Atlantic—running
through the seas of Vanderdecken, though we did
not see the Phantom Ship; how we encountered
two nice little cyclones on the Madagascar coast,
and got into the group of practically unknown
islands to the North, where man is so seldom seen
that the birds take no heed of the visitor; how
we got ashore, and got off again without hurt—
all these things are told in the pages that follow.
INTRODUCTION XII
But what those pages do not tell falls to my lot.
It is to say how much I and my fellow trustees
of the British Museum have appreciated the work
done by Mr. Nicoll, his skill in the preparation
of the many hundreds of specimens now in the
National collections, and his whole-hearted zeal
for his favourite science.
Time severs many links and brings to some
promotion. Thus, on his return from our last
voyage, Mr. Nicoll was appointed by the Egyptian
Government to the post of second in charge of
the Zoological Gardens at Giza, near Cairo, and
thus our rambles together are as of the past;
but I trust that the pleasant hours in many and
various scenes of the world may be brought to
life again in this book, which I hope will run to
many editions.
My “rolling stone” has started. ‘“‘ Valhalla”? is
now taking in her stores, and ere these words of
mine see the ink of the press, I shall be well on
my way to the far East—alas, without my
companion.
CRAWFORD.
PREFACE.
Lorp CRAWFORD has explained in his most kind
Introduction to this little book how it came to
pass that I accompanied him on three delightful
cruises in his yacht “ Valhalla.”
To visit so many out-of-the-way spots, and to
see so much of the world under these charming
circumstances, was an ideal experience and a
generous education. Seldom does it fall to the
lot of a naturalist to be given the opportunity
of examining the fauna of so many rarely-visited
places, nor can such experiences fail.to produce
matter for life-long reflection. No words of mine
can express adequately the gratitude I feel to my
ever-kind and generous host for having provided
the means to enjoy these rare and never-to-be-
forgotten experiences ; I can but say that whatever
success may have been achieved in making
collections during these voyages is due to Lord
Crawford’s ever-ready help and encouragement.
I should like also to offer my very best thanks
to Dr. P. L. Sclater, F.R.S., to whom I am in-
debted for my introduction to Lord Crawford.
xvi VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
T am but one of many young ornithologists who
have been started and encouraged in their career
by Dr. Sclater.
In the following pages I have devoted a chapter
to each of the most interesting and the least-known
islands or regions explored. Some places were
visited more than once, and in such cases all my
observations have been brought together, so that
the course of each voyage has not been always
strictly adhered to. It will, therefore, be well
to give a brief itinerary of each voyage, and to
set down the chief results obtained.
First, however, I must tell of the good ship
that carried us safely through calms and storms
by sail and steam for over 72,000 miles.
“Valhalla,” R.Y.S., is, I believe, the only ship-
rigged yacht in the world. She is of 1700 tons
displacement, and is fitted with auxiliary screw,
which, under favourable conditions, will drive her
through the water at a speed of about 104 to 11
knots an hour. It is under sail, however, that
“ Valhalla’ is at her best, and on many occasions
we logged 16 knots per hour. A better “sea”
ship has probably never been built, and under the
worst conditions it was rarely that she took any
water aboard. The way in which she rode out a
cyclone off the Mozambique coast was wonderful ;
the waves towered to a height beyond belief,
yet not a drop of water came aboard, nor was any
damage sustained. In fact, the only serious
‘9061 NI GHLOGTION STVWINV ANV SCUId WATT GHL GNV CHOdMVHO JO THVA FHL
PREFACE XVII
mishap experienced during my voyages occurred
off Cape Guardafui, in 1903, when a sudden whirl-
wind snapped the jibboom, hurling it into the air
like a straw.
“Valhalla ”’ was the first ship to be fitted with
the “Brougham patent electrical steering-gear,”
an invention which makes steering possible from
any part of the ship. In 1905 she took part in
the famous yacht race for the German Emperor’s
Cup, from Sandy Hook to the Lizard, and, although
by far the largest yacht, she came in an easy
third.
The accommodation on board is _palatial—
most ample “headroom,” large cabins, and
electric light throughout. The freezing room is
capable of carrying many tons of meat, sufficient
for a very long cruise. The total number of
crew carried, including officers, engineers, and
stewards, was about sixty-five. Indeed, under
any consideration, a better or more beautiful
yacht could not be imagined.
First VoyaGe.
DurinG the first voyage our party consisted of
Lord Crawford, Major L. B. Wilbraham, Dr.
W. B. Macdonald, and myself. We left Cowes
on 19th November, 1902, on a voyage which
lasted rather more than eight months, and during
this time 38,000 miles were covered.
After calling for coal at Lisbon, Madeira, the
B
xvit VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
Canaries, and Cape Verde Islands, we ran down
the Atlantic coast of South America, calling at
some of the islands, and visiting Bahia and Monte-
video for coal, thence through the Straits of
Magellan and Smythe’s Channel into the South
Pacific. From Valparaiso we sailed westwards
amongst the South Sea Islands; thence through
Torres Straits into the Indian Ocean. After
leaving Ceylon we steamed south-westwards until
the African coast was sighted, hoping—and in
this we were partly successful—to escape the fury
of the monsoon. The remainder of the voyage
home was performed by way of the Red Sea and
Mediterranean, and, after a pleasant passage
through these waters, Cowes was reached on Ist
August, 1903.
Below is given a detailed itinerary of this
voyage :—
Lisbon, 24th to 26th November, 1902 ;
Madeira, 29th to 30th November ;
Las Palmas, Ist to 3rd December ;
St. Vincent, Cape Verde Islands, 10th to
12th December ;
St. Paul’s Rocks, Mid-Atlantic, 17th to 18th
December ;
Fernando de Noronha, 20th to 22nd December;
Bahia, Brazil, 26th December to 5th J. anuary,
1908 ;
Montevideo, 14th January to 20th January ;
Straits of Magellan, 28th January to 5th
February ;
Smythe’s Channel, 5th to 10th February ;
PREFACE XIX
Valparaiso, 14th to 24th February ;
Easter Island, 10th to 13th March ;
Pitcairn Island, 22nd to 23rd March ;
Tahiti, Society Islands, 3lst March to 17th
April ;
Tutuila Island, Samoan Group, 22nd to 24th
April ;
Apia, Upolu Island, Samoa, 25th to 29th
April ;
Suva, Fiji Islands, 3rd to 6th May ;
Thursday Island, Torres Straits, 18th to 23rd
May ;
Singapore, 3rd to 9th June ;
Colombo, 17th to 20th June;
Aden, 2nd to 3rd July ;
Suez, 10th July ;
Port Said, 11th to 13th July ;
Gibraltar, 22nd to 26th July ;
Cowes, Ist August.
The collections made during this voyage com-
prised some two hundred and twenty bird-skins,
thirty mammals, a few hundred fishes and reptiles,
and several hundred butterflies, moths, and other
insects.
No new species of bird or mammal was obtained,
but a series of skins of the Pitcairn warbler
(Tatare vaughani) was of considerable interest.
The types of this species are spirit specimens in
the British Museum: no skins of the bird had
ever been collected before ; moreover, the fact
that the first plumage of the young differs very
considerably from that of the adult of this warbler
was unknown until we obtained specimens.
B2
xX VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
Another interesting discovery we made was
that Richardson’s skua (Stercorarius crepidatus)
winters in great numbers in the Bay of
Valparaiso—many hundred miles further south
on the west coast of America than it has previously
been found.
The two peculiar species of land-birds which
inhabit Fernando de Noronha, the Brazilian
convict island, are also perhaps worthy of notice,
on account of their rarity in collections. These
are a flycatcher (Hlainea ridleyana), and a
warbler (Vireo gracilirostris), which were pre-
viously represented in the British Museum by the
type-specimens only.
Amongst the fishes obtained during this voyage
one—Corvina crawfordi—from the harbour of
Montevideo, proved to be new to science.
A species of microlepidoptera—Pyroderces
crawfordi Walsingham—from Tahiti, was also
previously unknown, and another specimen of
this group of little moths—Heliostobes mathewi—
from Valparaiso, forms the only other known
specimen in addition to the type.
SECOND VOYAGE.
THE second voyage upon which we started from
Cowes on 18th December, 1903, was to the West
Indies. Our party for this cruise consisted of
Lord Crawford, Mr. C. R. Pawson, Dr. R. C.
MacWalters, and myself, though at Barbadoes
PREFACE XXI
we were joined by Colonel C. E. Swaine, who
visited all the West Indian Islands with us, but
left us at Florida for a trip through the United
States.
The voyage occupied about five months, and
after calling at the Canaries for coal we steamed
across to Barbadoes, thence to St. Lucia, St.
Vincent, and Grenada, afterwards running up the
entire chain of islands to Jamaica, the Caymans,
and then on to Cuba. Thence we proceeded to
Florida, where some excellent tarpon fishing was
enjoyed, and after a flying visit to Key West,
for the purpose of coaling, we returned home
via Bermuda and the Azores, reaching Cowes
on 8th May, 1904. An itinerary of this voyage
is appended :—
Madeira, 24th to 27th December, 1903 ;
Teneriffe, Canary Islands, 28th December
to Ist January, 1904 ;
Barbadoes, West Indies, 15th to 2l1st
January ;
St. Lucia, 22nd to 25th January ;
St. Vincent, 25th to 27th January ;
Cariacou, 27th to 28th January ;
Grenada, 28th January to Ist February ;
St. Lucia (second visit), 2nd to 5th February ;
Martinique, 5th to 7th February ;
Dominica, 7th to 10th February ;
Montserrat, 10th to 12th February ;
St. Kitts, 12th to 15th February ;
Antigua, 15th to 17th February ;
St. Kitts (second visit), 17th to 18th February;
St. Croix, 19th to 21st February ;
xxm1 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
St. Thomas, 2lst to 24th February ;
Porto Rico, 24th to 26th February ;
Jamaica, 29th February to 8th March ;
Grand Cayman, 9th to 13th March ;
Little Cayman, 13th to 14th March ;
Havana, Cuba, 17th to 21st March ;
Punta Gorda, Florida,22nd March to 4th April ;
Key West, Florida, 5th to 8th April ;
Bermuda, 13th to 20th April ;
St. Michael’s, Azores, 29th April to 2nd May ;
Cowes, 8th May.
The number of birds obtained during this trip
to the West Indies somewhat exceeded four
hundred, of which the following three proved to
be new to science :—
Dendreca crawford, from Little Cayman ;
Vireo laurae, from Grenada ;
Pitangus caymanensis, from Grand Cayman.
The birds found in all the West Indian Islands
are of great interest, as no two islands have an
avifauna exactly similar, so that all our collections
were of value. The Cayman Islands specimens
are worthy of particular notice, as nearly all the
resident birds are peculiar to the islands, and
there were previously very few specimens from
this locality in the British Museum.
About one hundred fishes and reptiles were
also obtained, but not one was new, nor were
there any of great rarity. The most interesting,
perhaps, were the five fine specimens of tarpon,
which we caught off the Florida coast. These
ranged in size from 40 to 95 pounds in weight,
({‘mrxx]
(ILA 403deyQ 00g)
‘ANVISI NUSSVG WOUd (GATIO SHLNOW ¢ LOOAV) SASTHL GaudVS
PREFACE XXIII
and I preserved the skins of four of them on our
homeward voyage.
About two hundred butterflies, moths, and
other insects were also obtained.
The most interesting islands visited during our
sojourn in the West Indies were Martinique,
famous for its volcanic eruptions in 1902, and the
Cayman Islands, which have been but seldom
visited by a naturalist.
Turrp VOYAGE.
It was not until the autumn of 1905 that I again
set out in the “Valhalla” on my last and,
perhaps, most interesting voyage.
On this cruise we had a somewhat larger party,
for besides Lord Crawford, the Hon. Walter
Lindsay, Dr. A. Dean, and myself, Mr. E. G. B.
Meade-Waldo was invited to accompany us for
the purpose of collecting insects, and thus I was
able to devote my whole time to birds, mammals,
fishes, and reptiles, with the consequence that
examples of several new species were obtained.
We sailed from Cowes on 8th November, 1905,
and, after calling at Las Palmas, ran down amongst
the South Atlantic Islands to the Cape of Good
Hope; thence northwards through the _in-
hospitable waters of the Mozambique Channel to
Madagascar and the little-known islands which
lie to the north-west. After visiting the
Seychelles we returned home via the Suez Canal,
xxiv VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
completing a voyage of seven months, during which
time we had covered about 19,000 miles. The
following is the detailed itinerary :—
Las Palmas, 13th to 16th November, 1905 ;
Put back to Las Palmas owing to illness of
one of the crew—17th November ;
St. Paul’s Rocks, 2nd December ;
Bahia, 10th to 30th December ;
South Trinidad, 3rd to 5th January, 1906 ;
Martin Vas, 5th January ;
Tristan da Cunha, 17th to 20th January ;
Cape Town, 28th January to 8th February ;
Durban, 14th to 15th February ;
Mayotte, Comoro Islands, 23rd February to
3rd March ;
Diego Suarez, Madagascar, 4th to 9th March ;
Glorioso island, 10th to 11th March ;
Assumption Island, 12th to 13th March ;
Aldabra, 13th to 16th March ;
Aground on Assumption, 16th to 17th March ;
Mahé, Seychelles Islands, 22nd March to
2nd April ;
Praslin and Felicité Islands, Seychelles, 2nd
to 5th April ;
Mahé (second visit), 5th to 8th April ;
Aden, 14th to 17th April ;
Suez, 23rd April ;
Port Said, 24th to 27th April ;
Gibraltar, 5th to 8th May ;
Cowes, 13th May, 1906.
The results obtained during this voyage were
more important than those of the two preceding
ones.
The collection of bird-skins, numbering five
PREFACE XXKV
hundred, contained specimens of eight species
new to science. Besides these there were many
rarities, few of the birds of the small coral islands
to the north-west of Madagascar having been
previously represented in the National collection.
The new species discovered were as follows :—
A white tern (Gygis crawfordi) from South
Trinidad ;
A diving petrel (Pelecanoides dacunhae) from
Tristan da Cunha ;
A paradise-flycatcher (Terpstphone lindsay?)
from Mayotte, Comoro Islands ;
A swift (Cypselus mayottensis) from Mayotte,
Comoro Islands ;
A ground-cuckoo (Centropus assumptions)
from Assumption Island ;
A turtle-dove (Zurtur assumptionis) from
Assumption Island ;
A heron (Butorides crawford) from Assump-
tion Island ;
A sunbird (Cinnyris mahét) from Seychelle
Islands.
Many fishes and reptiles were collected, but
none of these proved to be new or of great interest,
except a large specimen of the ribbon-fish
(Regalecus), which was obtained at Cape Town.
This fish is rare in collections, its pelagic habits
making its capture difficult.
Of the insects obtained I learn that several
belong to new species, or are otherwise rare or
xxvi VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
important, but at present I believe nothing has
been published concerning them.
The most interesting islands visited were un-
doubtedly South Trinidad, Dassen Island,
Glorioso, Assumption, Aldabra, the Comoros, and
Seychelles, all of which have been fully dealt with
in their proper place in the following pages.
This, then, is a brief outline of my three voyages
on the ‘ Valhalla,” and if some of the notes in
the following chapters are not as full as is desirable
I must remind my readers that our stay in many
of the “ ports of call” was of very short duration—
a difficulty only to be expected on a long
voyage, when coaling or other necessary though
wearisome proceedings effect frequent delays in
the larger ports.
If, however, my account of our experiences
should at some future time prove of use to any of
my readers who themselves set off for these
distant parts of the world in search of natural
history treasures, or if the following pages give
to the reader even a fraction of the pleasure
which I myself experienced in visiting the islands
therein portrayed, I shall feel that the book has
not been written wholly in vain.
M. da NN.
Giza, E@yrt.
January, 1908.
(ILA teydeyp 999) “ANVISI NUSSVd WOUd (CIO SHINOW F LAO) SUSIAI ATAOVS
A VOYAGE ROUND AFRICA,
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SKETOH-MAP TO SHOW THE COURSE OF THE VOYAGE ROUND AFRICA.
CHAPTER I.
SAINT PAUL’S ROCKS.
‘Saint Pavut’s Rocks, situated in mid-Atlantic,
about 540 miles from the nearest point of the
coast of South America, and 15 miles north of
the equator, are probably the most interesting
rock-islets in the world.
Roughly about half a mile in circumference,
this group is composed of five peaks of rock, the
highest of which is only 64 ft. above the level of
the sea. Darwin has stated* that Saint Paul’s
group is not volcanic, and thus forms the only
island in the world, with the exception of the
Seychelles, that is of neither volcanic nor coral
formation.
These rocks are surrounded by deep sea, and the
Challenger Expedition could discover no ridge
under the sea to connect them either with the
mainland or with the islands of Fernando de
Noronha, about 200 miles to the south.
- Owing to their small size, Saint Paul’s Rocks
cannot be seen, even in clear weather, from a
209
* «Voyage of the ‘Beagle.
2 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
greater distance than eight miles. Their appear-
ance from a short distance is most peculiar, the
two highest peaks being white with the droppings
of the numerous sea-birds which nest on them,
while the remainder are of a deep greenish-black,
very dark in contrast to the white peaks.
The outlying rocks, as can be seen during the fall
of the swell, are much worn below the water-line.
My first visit to these interesting rocks was
made in 1902, during my first voyage with Lord
Crawford in the “ Valhalla.” They were sighted
from aloft at 1.30 p.m. on the 17th December,
and shortly afterwards became visible from the
deck.
Numbers of gannets appeared and circled round
the yacht, while, as we gradually drew near,
great numbers of birds were to be seen flying in all
directions round the highest peaks.
At 3.30 we were close in, and shortly afterwards
a boat was lowered and we set out for the shore.
The weather was perfectly fine, but, owing to a
slight swell, the surf was breaking on the rocks
in a most forbidding manner. As we rowed closer,
however, we found that, by waiting and choosing
the right moment, the boat could be backed in
to a projecting portion of the rock, and then, as
we rose on the swell, it was not difficult to jump
ashore.
Accordingly we backed in carefully, and took
our turn to wait for the lift of the swell and then
BOOBIES 3
jump. At one moment the rock towered above
us, at the next the boat flew upwards until it was
level with the landing place—then was the time
to jump, and as one jumped the boat was pulled
out clear of the surf. Thus one by one we landed
safely.
As soon as we were ashore we noticed a vast
number of crabs* crawling about in all directions.
Some of these crabs were of a green colour; these
were the smaller and more numerous, perhaps the
younger ones, while others, which were larger,
were of a bright vermilion.
The landing place we had chosen was at the
foot of the highest peak, which Moseley calls
Booby Hill,t and certainly this name is well
chosen, for the peak was covered with boobies,
a species of gannet—Sula leucogaster—and. their
nests were so close together that it was almost
impossible to walk without stepping on either eggs
or young. The young boobies, sometimes two
in a nest, were of all ages, from bare, newly-hatched
chicks to fully-fledged young.
The nest of this gannet is merely a collection of
old and dirty feathers and loose stones. Round
about each nest were quantities of flying fishes
in all stages of decay, brought there and disgorged
by the parent birds as food for the young. The
freshest part of this food supply, we soon discovered,
* Grapsus strigosus.
+ “Notes of a Naturalist on H.M.S. ‘Challenger.’ ”
4 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
made excellent bait for the innumerable fishes
which swarmed round the rocks; but as we
found later, by accident, the best and freshest
bait was to be procured by gently prodding an
old gannet while it was sitting on its nest, when
it would at once disgorge a fish.
It was by no means pleasant to walk about
amongst these nesting birds, and, indeed, we found
it to be a most painful proceeding, as both old and
young pecked viciously at our legs. The young
birds were especially annoying, and would get
out of their nests and follow us, snapping savagely
at our legs with their long sharp bills.
At the base of Booby Hill I came on a colony
of noddy terns.* This bird lays its single egg
on the bare rock. Most of the eggs were hard set,
and there were many young ones of various ages.
Although very tame, the noddies were not so bold
as the boobies, and we did not succeed in catching
more than one adult bird of this species with our
hands.
Running about among the noddies we saw a
turnstone,t a well-known visitor in the spring
and autumn to the shores of the British Isles,
In the winter it is distributed practically over
the whole world. This bird has not hitherto been
recorded from Saint Paul’s Rocks, however, and
it was probably resting there while on migration.
Besides the birds already mentioned, a second
* Anous stolidus. t Strepsilas interpres.
Cs]
‘OLLNVILV-GIM “SHOOU S,TNVd “LS
SS
SS
NESTING AT ALL SEASONS 5
species of noddy tern—Micranous leucocapillus—
a smaller and darker bird than the common noddy,
was seen and obtained. This small tern was not
nearly so abundant as the larger species, and it
was not found nesting on Booby Hill. It was
also far more shy, and specimens were only
obtained with difficulty.
Thus there are only three species of birds which
nest on Saint Paul’s Rocks, and they appear to
breed all the year round. The naturalists of the
‘“‘ Beagle” landed there in February, those of the
“Challenger”? in August, while we were there
in December, and on all of these occasions both
eggs and young were found.
One of the sailors landed with us in the boat
to collect eggs for eating purposes. Whether any
of the crew ate any I never heard, but as nearly
all those we obtained were hard set, I should
imagine they did not. I have a vivid recollection,
too, of being called up in the small hours of the
following morning, with the news that several
of the eggs had hatched during the night.
From the top of the highest peak one could get
a good view of the rocks. They are divided up
into groups of jagged peaks, each group being
separated from its neighbour by a channel through
which the sea rushes with great violence. The
rock on which we landed appeared to be the
largest, both in height and circumference.
At the foot of Booby Hill were several tidal
Cc
6 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
pools in which many species of small fishes were
seen, but all attempts to catch them with a net
proved futile. A great many fish were, however,
caught in the sea by fishing from the rocks. Of
these a species of “‘cavalli” weighed in some cases
as many as twelve pounds. Fishing here pre-
sented a somewhat unusual difficulty, for sharks
swarmed in incredible numbers, and it was a
difficult task to avoid hooking them instead of
more serviceable game; indeed, so numerous
were the sharks that, on our return to the ship,
we found that during our absence no less than
twenty had been caught, all of them at no greater
distance than two hundred yards from the shore.
As to the other inhabitants of the rocks, Darwin
mentions the following: A pupiparous fly (living
as a parasite on the booby), a beetle (Quedius),
a tick, a small brown moth belonging to a genus
which feeds on feathers, and a _ woodlouse.
Moseley says: ‘‘ We found two species of spiders
. and, in addition to the insects noted by
Darwin, the larva of a moth, apparently a
Tortrix, and a small dipter . . . . but could not
find either the beetle or woodlouse.”’
We searched carefully and obtained specimens
of the feather-feeding moth, a tiny beetle, and a
small cricket, but failed to find either the wood-
louse or the spider. The pupiparous fly was,
however, noticed on the booby.
The heat on Saint Paul’s Rocks was intense,
SHARKS 7
the sun, beating down on the bare rock, made the
place like an oven, and the only shade was that
thrown from Booby Hill towards evening.
Shortly before sunset we went on board, fully
determined to land the next morning on another
part of the rocks. Getting off was, we found, a
much more difficult business than landing, but
at last it was safely accomplished. Several fishes
and one bird were dropped into the water during
the process of embarkation, and they were im-
mediately taken by sharks, so it was just as well
that none of our party slipped into the water.
Perhaps a shark is not so dangerous to human
beings as it is usually supposed to be. That
there are some sharks which will attack a man
in the water is, of course, certain, but I think
that there are not very many that will do so.
During two visits made to Saint Paul’s Rocks
we tried to ascertain the nature of the food of
these sharks. We cut open and examined at
least thirty of them, but in only one did we find
the remains of food—a half-digested fish. Of
what, then, does their food consist? It seems
incredible that they can feed entirely on fishes,
as anyone will realise who has seen the slow,
almost lazy, way in which they take their prey.
Judging from the enormous number of sharks
round Saint Paul’s Rocks, there should be a great
supply of food. Of course it is possible that they
can exist for a length of time without food. That
c2
8 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
they go elsewhere for their food is not likely,
as these rocks are far away from any other land.
During our second visit a shark, which had been
shot with a rifle, sank, and as all its companions,
of which there were a great number round the ship
at the time, followed it down, and on reappearing
refused to look at our baits, I imagine that they
devoured it.
During the night of 17th December we steamed
slowly away from the rocks, but at daylight we
returned, and, lowering a boat, again landed.
This time we went ashore on one of the rocks at
the further end of the bay, which is formed by
the semi-circular nature of the group.
The weather being even finer and the sea
smoother than on the previous day, we landed
without difficulty, and at once climbed to the
highest peak of this rock, which is 60 feet in
altitude, and the second highest of the group.
Here I was delighted to find the nests of the
smaller noddy tern, which I have mentioned as
having been seen on the previous day. This
bird lays its egg in a most curiously constructed
nest. A mass of fine seaweed is cemented to a
small jutting ledge of rock, the cement being formed
of the droppings of the birds. We found
altogether four of these nests, each of which con-
tained a single egg. A few of the larger noddies
were also breeding here, but these, as on Booby
Hill, had laid their eggs on the bare rock, without
[6]
‘SMOOU S,TOVd “LS THO LHYNAVO SHUVHS FHL 40 GMOS
A SECOND VISIT 9
making any attempt at anest. Moseley, in describ-
ing these bracket-like nests, suggests that it is
only the strongest birds that take possession of
the favourable points of the rock on which they
are placed, although he adds a footnote to the
effect that at the time of his visit he did not realize
that two species of noddies inhabit Saint Paul’s
Rocks. It is, however, quite obvious that it
is not the strongest birds, but only the smaller
noddies, which occupy these ledges, since the
larger noddy was in no instance found nesting upon
them.
This day, while we were on the rocks, a ship
passed by, close in. It is only occasionally that
ships sight these rocks, and then only to determine
their exact position. No one, it is almost certain,
had landed on Saint Paul’s Rocks since the visit
of the “Challenger” until we were there just
twenty-nine years later.
At 4.30 p.m. on the 18th December we sailed
away, bound for Fernando de Noronha, and as I
stood on deck and watched these interesting little
islands fading away in the distance, I little thought
that in three years’ time it would be my fortune
to see them again.
It was on my third voyage in 1905, while on the
way to Brazil, that Lord Crawford suggested that
we should renew our acquaintance with these
little-known islands. Shaping our course ac-
cordingly, we sighted the rocks on 2nd December,
10 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
and, after a few minutes’ steaming, drew up close
to our former landing place.
The weather was, unfortunately, by no means
so kind on this occasion as on our former visit.
A strong wind was blowing, and the surf was break-
ing with great fury on the foot of Booby Hill.
It might have been possible to land, but we de-
cided that, under the conditions prevailing,
it was too risky to venture close to the rocks,
therefore we were forced to content ourselves
with a distant view of the boobies.
Some time was, however, spent over shark
fishing, and we had hopes that the weather might
improve. A number of sharks were caught, and
in this way we spent the greater part of a day.
As the sea was still high at sunset, Lord
Crawford decided that it was not worth while to
remain longer, so we sailed for Bahia, Brazil.
During this visit to Saint Paul’s Rocks we
noticed that the birds were present in about the
same numbers as before. Boobies of all ages were
flying round the ship the whole time we were
there, and many noddies were also seen.
CHAPTER. II.
FERNANDO DE NORONHA.
On 20th December, 1902, the island of Fernando
de Noronha was sighted, and at 4 p.m. we dropped
anchor off the settlement.
On the island is a Brazilian convict settlement,
and permission to land is by no means easy to
obtain. The “Challenger” Expedition was not
allowed to make collections there, and Mr. Ridley,
who visited the island in 1887, was, previously to
our visit, the only naturalist who had collected
with any thoroughness. Of the three species of
land-birds which he obtained, two proved to be
new to science.
It was therefore a matter of great satisfaction
that, by the courtesy of the Governor of the
island, we were allowed to land and make natural
history collections, and not only that, but were
also. generously provided with guides and
horses.
The most remarkable physical feature of
Fernando de Noronha is a gigantic column of
rock standing erect on the highest peak. This
12 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
column appears to be a smooth mass of rock,
and looks as if a slight push would send it head-
long into the sea. Another marked feature, which
is visible at a considerable distance, is an opening
through the sea-cliff at the south-western extremity
of the island. This boring has been made by the
sea, and is known as the “ hole in the wall.”
Just opposite our anchorage, and close to
the settlement, there was also a magnificent
“blowhole”’ in the cliff, through which the air
was driven, by the rise and fall of the sea, with a
loud roar every few seconds.
The island slopes gradually upwards from the
sea, and its general appearance from a little distance
is green and fertile. When we landed we found
that the cause of this apparent fertility was a
thick growth of fig trees, which covered most of
the island. Maize is, however, grown at certain
seasons of the year, and in a letter received by
Doctor Macdonald some months after our visit,
one of the Englishmen living on the island describes
it as looking very green and fresh, owing to the
abundance of the maize crop.
As soon as a boat had been lowered we started
for the shore. The surf was breaking with such
fury on both the charted landing places that we
were forced to abandon the idea of getting in at
these spots; but we found that, by backing the
boat to a jutting mass of rock, we could, with a
little difficulty, scramble ashore.
A CONVICT SETTLEMENT 13
The Governor, accompanied by two English-
men who manage the telegraph and Lloyd’s
signal station, had come down to meet us, and,
thus accompanied, we proceeded to the settle-
ment, where arrangements were made for a collect-
ing expedition on the following day.
While we were at the Governor’s house a bugle
was sounded to summon the convicts. There
were about 200 of them, all under long sentences,
most of them having been convicted of murder.
One man, who was told off as a guide to our party,
was said to have committed seven murders, and
as he owned to five of them, I have no doubt that
we were correctly informed.
After their names had been called, the convicts
dispersed for the night, about fifty being locked
up in the gaol, and the rest going off to their own
houses. Most of these men have wives and
families, and, as far as we could judge, their
lives were not hard. They have to work three
hours a day for the State, but the rest of the day
they can spend as they like, though all have to
appear when the bugle is sounded in front of the
Governor’s House.
Shortly after the convicts had dispersed we
started for the landing place. At its best this is
a difficult place from which to embark without
getting wet, and it was seldom that we landed
there or got away without getting soaked by the
waves.
14 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
The next morning we landed early, and,
walking to the settlement, were met by our English
friends, who had procured ponies for us on which
to cross the island. During our ride I saw a pair
of white terns (Gygis sp.), the most beautiful
of all the tropical sea-birds. Later on we saw
many of these terns in the various islands we
visited, and, whether hovering over the deep blue
sea of the South Pacific, or sailing round the palms
of a coral island in the Indian Ocean, they seem
equally at home; wherever they were seen the
snow-white of their plumage and the deep dark
blue of their eyes made them ever memorable.
At the base of the column on the peak we made
our first acquaintance with frigate birds,* which
were sitting in numbers on some bushes; their
scarlet pouches were extended, and looked in the
distance like large red blossoms. It is only in
the breeding season that frigate birds develop
this curious ornament. When closely examined
it is seen that the pouch is formed by a bare patch
of skin on the throat, which can be expanded by
the bird at will. At times a great bladder as large
as a football is thus formed. When the bird is
taken in the hand and carefully examined, the
whole of the body appears to be inflated. On
skinning the bird it is at once seen that the whole
body is enveloped with a mass of air cells. The
pouch is only an exaggerated form of such an air
* Fregata aquila.
THE FRIGATE BIRD’S POUCH 15
cell, and, being larger than those on the rest of
the body, is more noticeable.
In the breeding season the pouch is constantly
being inflated, and, as a consequence, the skin of
the throat becomes stretched to such a degree
that when not inflated it hangs down in a loose
fold below the bill of the bird. It is only the
males that are able to inflate these pouches in this
way, the female having a non-inflatable patch of
bare skin of a duller colour on the throat. We
afterwards found that by inserting a bicycle
pump into the larynx of a freshly-killed male
frigate bird and pumping air into the throat,
the whole of the body, as well as the throat,
becomes inflated.
Along the shore we saw a species of the tropic,
or bo’sun, bird. This proved to be Phaethon
lepturus, and two fine specimens were obtained
by Lord Crawford. Several of them were flying
along the face of the cliff. The name “ bo-sun”
is said to have been given to this bird on account
of its cry, which is supposed to resemble the
pipe of a boatswain’s whistle. It must be
confessed, however, that the only cry we heard
it utter was a harsh scream not unlike that of a
tern.
A dove known as Zenaida auriculata, which
was originally, without doubt, introduced from
the mainland of South America, was extraordinarily
abundant on this island. They were very tame
16 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
and fearless, but were not nesting at the time of
our visit. Their note is a loud rattling “ coo.”
Insects were not very numerous—bees, dragon-
flies, beetles and crickets being the most notice-
able, while a little blue butterfly was frequently
seen fluttering along at our feet in the pathways
through the groves of fig trees.
In the houses we collected a number of
mosquitoes, apparently of one species only. It
seems that it is only in the houses that mosquitoes
are troublesome, as, during the whole of the time
we were on the island, we were not attacked by
these pests out-of-doors, and it was only when we
entered a house that they became a nuisance.
We went to the furthest extremity of the island
in a north-west direction from the settlement.
Here we found that the low fig trees, which seem
to be the principal trees of the island, were growing
in greater abundance than near the settlement.
In these trees numbers of small birds, which
in general appearance much resembled reed-
warblers, were flitting in and out among the leaves
in search of insects. These birds proved to be all
of the species called Vireo gracilirostris. Their
loud, but by no means unpleasant, song somewhat
resembled that of a pied wagtail, so familiar as a
British bird.
This part of the island was steep and precipitous.
We followed a path which took us down to the
seashore about one hundred feet below, and here
FRIGATE BIRDS ON GLORIOSO ISLAND.
(See also Chapter X.)
[16]
BRILLIANT FISHES 17
we noticed numbers of sooty terns,* which were
flying in a perpetual stream along the coast,
just above the breaking waves. These birds were
not nesting at the time of our visit, but we were
told that they bred in great numbers on one of the
smaller islets, which lies about half a mile off the
settlement. A few tropic-birds, which were flying
high overhead, appeared from their manner to
have nests, which were probably situated in the
most inaccessible parts of the cliff.
The tide was low, and we were able to walk
some distance along the shore. A long ledge of
rock was pointed out to us by one of our friends
as an excellent place for fishing, and in many
shallow pools we saw numbers of brilliantly
coloured fishes; some of these were blue on the
back and yellow beneath. We made repeated
attempts to capture them, but to no purpose.
It is impossible to make a collection of the whole
fauna of an island during a visit of two or three
days, aS we soon realized; consequently I spent
most of my time searching for the three species of
land-birds which inhabit Fernando de Noronha.
Specimens of the dove and the warbler, which
have already been mentioned, were collected
during the morning. As soon as we returned
from our excursion across the island a visit was paid
to the Governor’s garden, where, owing perhaps
to the greater abundance of trees, birds were more
* Sterna fuliginosa.
18 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
numerous, and the third species of land-bird,
a flycatcher,* was met with.
In this garden, which was nicely laid out and
enclosed by an iron fence, were many large
cocoanut trees bearing a quantity of fruit.
There were also some sapodillas, the fruit of which
was ripe at this time. It is greatly appreciated
by the people on Fernando de Noronha, and we
were persuaded to taste it. Externally it somewhat
resembles a small round potato ; the flavour, how-
ever, is too much like that of the mango, the
suggestion of turpentine which pervades the latter
fruit being distinctly noticeable in the sapodilla.
Doves were swarming in the garden, every tree
and bush being apparently tenanted by them,
and the Governor showed us a cage full which had
recently been caught. They were, he told us,
excellent to eat.
There are no indigenous mammals on Fernando
de Noronha, but ratst and micet have been im-
ported or have escaped from ships. I did not get
any rats, but two mice which we shot were of a
pale fawn colour, and probably differed in colour,
at all events, from those of their ancestors which
first appeared on this island. One of the outlying
islets is called “‘ Rat Island,” but we were informed
that rats were no more numerous there than on
the main island.
Close to the place where we embarked, we
* Hlainea ridleyana. + Mus rattus. t Mus musculus.
CATAMARANS 19
noticed a thick-stemmed plant covered all over
with small spikes, and bearing leaves like those
of the geranium. We were warned by our friends
that this plant, when touched, gave a most painful
sting. Moseley mentions that, although he used
the greatest care when securing a specimen, he
got a sting, the results of which he felt for several
days afterwards. We afterwards saw this same
plant in Brazil.
During the second day of our stay on Fernando
de Noronha a steamer, which visits the island
once every month, arrived, bearing mails for the
inhabitants. The advent of the steamer is much
looked forward to, as life on Fernando de Noronha
for a European is dull in the extreme.
As soon as the boat arrived a large raft was
pushed off from the shore and anchored outside
of the surf. The raft resembled in shape a large
table, the legs of which were fixed to a platform
composed of a number of logs lashed together.
A boat was sent off from the steamer loaded with
packages of stores, clothing, letters, and other
things, and these were put on to the raft, from
which they were landed in native catamarans.
The catamarans, which are built on the same
principle as the large raft, are of sufficient size
to carry one person with comfort besides the
native oarsman. They are especially adapted
for landing through surf, and they ride over
the breaking waves with wonderful buoyancy.
20 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
We once landed in a catamaran, and all of us got
ashore with no more than wet feet. In Brazil
we frequently landed through surf in the same
way, though the catamarans there are larger and
are propelled by two natives.
Our time ashore on this second day was limited,
and we did not get very far beyond the settlement.
Major Wilbraham and I walked for some distance
along the shore, and saw the same species of birds
as at Saint Paul’s Rocks, but we noticed that
the turnstone appeared to be quite numerous.
There are, I believe, two species of lizards
on the island, but we only saw one of them. This
was Mabwa punctata, and it seemed to be a most
abundant species on every part of the island.
As we had many other interesting places to see,
our stay on Fernando de Noronha was of necessity
very short, and after two days we set sail for
Bahia, in Brazil. It is probable that in a few
years’ time Fernando de Noronha will cease to
exist as a convict settlement. We were informed
that as capital punishment had taken the place of
exportation for life in Brazil, no more convicts
were to be sent there.
[tz]
‘aNVISI VOIUVdIVLL NO dWVO
CHAPTER, III.
ITAPARICA, BAHIA.
Durina the three cruises of the ‘“ Valhalla,”
we made two visits to Bahia. On the first occasion
we landed on 26th December, 1902, Christmas
Day having been spent in sight of the coast of
Brazil, while on the second we dropped anchor
in the Bay of All Saints on 10th December, 1905.
Some six miles from the town lies Itaparica, a
large island inhabited by about 30,000 people,
and it was here that most of our time (a fortnight
on each occasion) was spent. During our first
visit some time was occupied in finding the most
suitable places for landing on this island, and also
in searching for the best spots for collecting birds,
butterflies, and other specimens. What we learnt
on this occasion, however, proved of the greatest
assistance during our second visit, as we were then
able to find the passage through the reef with
little difficulty, and go at once to our old collecting
grounds.
Before describing our doings at Bahia, I must
refer in detail to an important incident which
D
22 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
occurred on the high seas during our second voyage
thither.
On the 7th December, 1905, when in latitude
7° 14’ S., longitude 34° 25’ W., and about fourteen
miles from the coast of Brazil near Para, a creature
of most extraordinary form and proportions was
sighted by two of us. At the time we were under
sail only, and were slowly making our way to
Bahia. It was at about 10 o’clock in the morning,
and I was leaning on the rail of the poop deck,
when a large fin suddenly appeared close to the
ship at a distance of about fifty yards. This fin
resembled that of no fish I had previously seen,
and I pointed it out immediately to Mr. E. G. B.
Meade-Waldo, who was on deck with me at the
time, and we watched it together for several
minutes. As we passed slowly by, a long eel-like
neck surmounted by a head, shaped somewhat
like that of a turtle, rose out of the water in front
of the fin. This creature remained in sight for a
few minutes, but we soon drew ahead of it, and it
became lost to view, owing to the ripple of the
water. Owing to the fact that we were under sail
at the time, it was not possible to go about and
make a closer inspection, and with great regret
we had to be content with the view we had had of
this remarkable monster.
A full account of it was given at a meeting of
the Zoological Society of London, on 19th June,
1906, and I quote below from the report which was
(‘fas200g' yoorBojoogy ay; fo shuypoo004g Ot} WOT.)
24 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
printed in the “Proceedings” of that Society
(10th October, 1906, p. 721) :—
“ At 10.15 a.m., on Thursday, 7th December,
1905, when in lat. 7° 14’ S., long. 34° 25’ W., in a
depth of from 322 to 1,340 fathoms, Meade-Waldo
and I saw a most extraordinary creature about
100 yards from the ship, and moving in the same
direction, but very much slower than we were
going. At first all that we could see was a dorsal
fin, about four feet long, sticking up about two feet
from the water; this fin was of a brownish-black
colour, and much resembled a gigantic piece of
ribbon-seaweed. Below the water we could in-
distinctly see a very large brownish-black patch,
but could not make out the shape of the creature.
Every now and then the fin entirely disappeared
below the water. Suddenly an eel-like neck,
about six feet long and of the thickness of a man’s
thigh, having a head shaped like that of a turtle,
appeared in front of the fin. This head and
neck, which were of the same colour above as the
fin, but of a silvery-white below, lashed up the
water with a curious wriggling movement. After
this it was so far astern of us that we could make
out nothing else.
“ During the next fourteen hours we went about
twice, and at about 2 am. the following day
(8th December), in lat. 7° 19’ S., long. 34° 04’ W., °°
the first and third mates, Mr. Simmonds and Mr.
Harley, who were on the bridge at the time, saw
THE GREAT SEA-SERPENT 25
a great commotion in the water. At first they
thought it was a rock a-wash about 100 to 150
yards away on the port side, just aft of the bridge,
but they soon made out that it was something
moving and going slightly faster than the ship,
which at that time was doing about 84 knots.
Mr. Simmonds hailed the deck, and one of the crew,
who was on the look-out, saw it too. Although
there was a bright moon at the time, they could
not make out anything of the creature itself,
owing to the amount of wash it was making, but
they say that from the commotion in the water
it looked as if a submarine was going along just
below the surface. They both say most em-
phatically that it was not a whale, and that it was
not blowing, nor have they ever seen anything
like it before. After they had watched it for several
minutes, it ‘sounded’ off the port bow, and they
saw no more of it.”
This creature was an example, I consider, of
what has been so often reported, for want of a
better name, as the “great sea-serpent.” I feel
sure, however, that it was not a reptile that we
saw, but a mammal. It is, of course, impossible
to be certain of this, but the general appearance of
the creature, especially the soft, almost rubber-
like fin, gave one this impression. It is often
said that, if there were such a monster, remains of
it would have been found long ago, but this is not
necessarily so. Supposing the “ sea-serpent ”’
26 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
lives in deep holes, such as there were in the spot
where we saw our “ monster,”’ then there would be
little chance of remains being washed ashore, and
the amount of deep-sea dredging that has yet
been done is very small, so that it is not surprising
that no parts of this creature have been obtained
in that way.
That it is not more often reported is not to be
wondered at, when one realizes how often it is
that a ship may sail for days together without
sighting another ship, even in seas where there is
considerable traffic. Also it must be remembered
that such ridicule is generally bestowed on the
reports of sea-monsters that many persons hesitate
to describe what they have seen. I know myself of
several instances of unknown sea-monsters having
been seen by reliable witnesses, who, to avoid the
inevitable “ chaff,” would not publicly state their
experiences.
* # * *
The town of Bahia has a striking and picturesque
appearance from the harbour, white houses
peeping out here and there from luxuriant vege-
tation. But “distance lends enchantment to
the view,’ and when on shore the narrow
and filthy streets, and the general untidiness
of the whole place, quickly dispel the illusion of
cleanliness.
During my two visits to Bahia I spent as little
time as possible in the town. A run of some forty
A BRAZILIAN FOREST 27
minutes in our steam launch took us across to
Itaparica, where, after passing through a passage
in the reef, we landed in a small ‘‘ Berthon”’
boat.
FORET D AMBRE,
VIRGIN FOREST 89
bare patch of red skin. The “coo” of the Comoro
fruit-pigeon is extraordinarily deep and resonant.
These pigeons were very tame, and took no notice
whatever of our presence. There is no doubt
that they are now extremely rare.
A native guide told me that he had often seen
the black parrot* in this same forest-covered
peak, but unfortunately we did not come across
it.
The Madagascar weaver bird was somewhat
abundant on the outskirts of the forest, and
the only other bird seen there was a thrusht of
about the size of our blackbird ; it has an orange-
coloured bill, but the plumage is greyish and the
crown of the head black. It is a very noisy bird,
its loud chattering call-note at once betrays its
presence.
This patch of virgin forest extends from about
1000 feet above sea-level nearly to the summit
of the peak, and is composed of tall trees under
which dense masses of creepers and ferns grow in
luxuriance. Numerous streams of pure fresh water
intersect the narrow pathway through the forest,
and owing to this and to the deep shade given by
the trees, the air was quite refreshing, and in strik-
* Two species of these parrots are found in the Comoros, Coracopsis
comorensis and C. sibilans, though neither have apparently been
previously recorded from Mayotte. My informant gave me such
a clear description of a black parrot, however, that there is no doubt
that one of the above species is found on Mayotte.
+ Ixocincla madagascariensis.
90 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
ing contrast to that of the lower parts of the
island.
On the edge of the forest we found a large
colony of fruit bats, which were hanging from the
upper branches of the trees. They became very
restless as soon as we approached, many taking
to flight with shrill cries. Others climbed about
from branch to branch, using the long claw on their
wings as well as their feet, and hanging head down-
wards.
In the depth of the forest we came on a small
party of lemurs,* which were feeding on the fruit
of a densely foliaged tree. I shot one for identi-
fication, but was unwilling to sacrifice more of
these charming little creatures, which showed not
the slightest fear, but merely looked down at us
with their great black eyes, and uttered continually
their characteristic grunting noise.
While walking quietly along under the trees
on the look-out for pigeons I surprised a family
party of tenrecs, which were rooting amongst the
dead leaves for insects. ‘These creatures are much
like large hedgehogs in appearance, but their
spines are much softer; moreover, they have the
same disagreeable stench as the fruit bats, and
those I brought on board were not favourably
received by my companions. In spite of its un-
pleasant smell the tenrec is used as an article of
food in Madagascar, and is greatly appreciated
* Lemur mayottensis.
[06]
“UVOSVOVAVIN ‘TUaNv Lauod AHL AO ANA AHL
A WALKING FISH 91
by the natives. Possibly it has been introduced
into the Comoro Islands from Madagascar on
account of its edible qualities. The natives of the
Comoro Islands also hold the lemur in great esteem
as a delicacy, and they declare it to be, when young,
quite as good eating as chicken.
Lower down the hill, amongst the sugar cane
and other cultivated crops, were several species of
birds, but most of these were without any doubt
introductions, and as such were not worthy of
notice. Numbers of small swifts* were flying round
the cocoanut palms near our landing place. Owing
to its rapid flight this swift is very difficult to shoot
so that only one specimen was obtained. This
one fell on a patch of bare ground which was
honeycombed by the burrows of land-crabs ; before
I could pick it up a crab, starting forward and
seizing it, dragged it underground, and only with
great difficulty was I able to open up the burrow
and. rescue the bird.
Green bee-eaterst were seen in numbers on the
low ground amongst the cultivation, and it is
interesting to note that this species ranges from
Madagascar across Africa to the west coast.
Late in the afternoon we walked down to the
mangrove swamp where our boat was waiting for
us. Here we came across that peculiar fish, the
walking goby.t It was in great numbers on the
* Tachornis gracilis. + Merops superciliosus.
t Periophthalmus koebreutert.
92 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
mud of the mangrove swamp, where it spends most
of its time, though always close to water. We
found it extremely difficult to obtain a specimen.
The fish stays quite still until one attempts to catch
it, when it at once makes off across the water with
a series of leaps, to reappear at some distance away
on the mud or on a dead branch lying on the water’s
edge. Sometimes, as one walks through the
swamp, numbers of these fish skip away in all
directions, but however closely they are pursued
they never remain long in the water. On land the
pectoral fins are used as legs, and the fish is able
to walk with ease over the soft mud. Species of
this genus are found throughout the tropics.
Karly on the morning of March 3rd, 1906, we
left Mayotte and steamed away, bound for Diego
Suarez, the principal port of Madagascar.
CHAPTER IX.
LA FORET D’AMBRE, MADAGASCAR.
Tue day after we left Mayotte, Cape Ambre was
sighted, and at noon we entered the harbour of
Diego Suarez, the principal port of Madagascar.
The town is strongly fortified and owing to a
deep indentation of the coastline, it has an ideal
harbour.
The governor of Diego Suarez was exceedingly
kind. He granted us a permit for collecting
during our stay, and also supplied us with free
passes for the “train” from the town to Camp
d’Ambre, which we wished to visit in order to see
the great forest of Ambre. Moreover, a message
was sent to the officer in charge of this camp to
give us all the help possible during our stay there.
We started at 7 o’clock in the morning and boarded
the “ train,” which was in reality a tram consisting
of two carriages drawn by four mules. The road
was a steep ascent, and we were three hours in
reaching the camp, which is 2000 feet above sea-
level. The first part of the road led through
fields of long grass, in which were great numbers
94. VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
of quails, and every now and then one would rise
close to the hoofs of the mules. Small dark-
coloured larks—Mirafra hova—which were even
more abundant, rose in flocks from almost under
the wheels of the tram, and along the track
in front of us swarms of these little birds were
running.
After a few miles forest took the place of pasture
land, and for a considerable distance the track
lay between rows of tall trees, the branches of which
almost met overhead. In this forest we saw a
flock of Guinea fowls* which, being surprised at a
bend in the track, took to flight close ahead of the
tram. At some distance from the camp the tram
lines came to an end, and the rest of the journey
had to be performed in a large two-wheeled waggon
drawn by mules, which brought us, after an hour’s
hard pulling, to our destination. We were met
by the colonel commanding the camp, who con-
ducted us to the hotel where rooms had been
ordered. Camp d’Ambre is a convalescent station,
and all soldiers suffering from fever are sent there
to recuperate. The camp consists of barracks»
officers’ quarters, and a small, but clean and well-
managed hotel. The surroundings are very
beautiful. In front the hill slopes abruptly, allow-
ing a distant view of Diego Suarez. On both sides
the country is covered with grass, while in the rear
lies the Forét d’Ambre—a splendid virgin forest
* Numida mitrata.
FORET D’AMBRE, MADAGASCAR.
[95]
BLACK PARROTS 95
stretching for four hundred miles into the interior
of Madagascar.
As soon as we had lunched we set off, under
the guidance of one of the officers who was a keen
entomologist, to explore a strip of forest in a small
valley near the camp. Every valley in this
neighbourhood was filled with luxuriant vegetation,
while the sides and summits of the hills were
covered with good pasture. In this particular
valley a path led from the camp to a patch of
cultivated ground, which was about half an hour’s
walk below us. The forest was full of birds, but
they were not easy to see, on account of the height
of the trees and the thick foliage. As we walked
down, I saw a small hawk, much like a sparrow-
hawk, sitting on a branch of one of the trees, and,
on shooting it, I found it was Astur francisce,
a species which is peculiar to Madagascar.
As we entered the cultivation at the bottom of
the valley, a large dark-coloured bird flew overhead
uttering a loud, but most musical, whistle. This
proved to be one of the Madagascar “ black”
parrots—Coracopsis vasa. We were much sur-
prised at the extremely rapid flight of this bird,
as it dashed over us with outstretched neck, into
the forest. The following day we had a good view
of a pair of these parrots sitting in the top of a tree
close to the camp, and we also became acquainted
with a smaller species—C. nigra. These parrots
are, we were informed, quite common in every
96 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
strip of forest in the neighbourhood of the Camp
d’ Ambre.
The cultivated ground at the foot of the valley
was only a few acres in extent, and not many birds
were to be seen there. A pair of wagtails,* feeding
in a small stream of water, and a stonechatt were
both interesting because found only in Madagascar;
but on the edge of the cultivation I saw a bird of
more general interest—the lark-heeled cuckoo.
The foot of this bird is most remarkable. The two
toes which point forward are normal, but the two
which project backwards are of a peculiar forma-
tion, one of them being fitted with a short curved
claw, while the other has a long straight spur,
like the hind claw of a skylark. This species also
is found only in Madagascar, where it appears to
be abundant. There were great numbers of
weaver-birds in the cultivated ground, and they
all belonged to the brilliantly coloured species
(Foudia madagascariensis), which we had met with
at Mayotte.
Early in the afternoon it began to rain, and this
developed into a steady downpour which continued
for the rest of the day. We were soon wet
through, and in this condition had to attend a
reception. We were received by the colonel
commanding the camp, and his staff, and were
so hospitably entertained that it was long after
* Motacilla flaviventris. { Pratincola sybilla.
£ Centropus toulou.
FORET D’AMBRE » MADAGASCAR.
[96]
BIRD-LIFE IN THE FOREST 97
midnight before we got back to our hotel.
However, at six o'clock next morning we were
ready for an excursion into the big forest, and,
after a time, our friends, who were to accompany
us, arrived. An hour’s walk brought us to the
forest, and on entering it we followed for several
miles a broad path, which was made by the
Foreign Legion many years ago, and extends for
twenty miles. The forest was full of life;
brilliant butterflies fluttered over the vegetation
bordering the path, and numerous birds flitted
through the trees. The vegetation was so dense
that the only way I was able to get specimens
at all was by shooting those which came into the
trees overhanging the path. Pigeons* and black
parrots appeared to be numerous ; and in the dense
growth of bushes near the path there were reed-
warblers of a species called Bernierta madagasca-
riensis, peculiar to Madagascar. I had some
difficulty at first in seeing the latter, as they
rarely showed themselves, and the call-note, a
deep “churr,” was quite ventriloquial in effect.
Flocks of white-eyest were flying from tree to
tree, searching for insects; their clear calls re-
sounded from all sides, but owing to the great
height of the trees they were usually out of range,
and I only obtained one example. One of the
most striking birds was the grey-headed love-bird,{
* Alectroenas madagascariensis. + Zosterops madagascariensis.
{ Agapornis cana.
98 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
well-known as a cage-bird in Europe. It is in-
digenous to Madagascar, but has been introduced
into the Comoros and doubtless other islands. The
male is green with a grey head and neck, while
the female is green all over; both have a black
bar across the tail. They were always in pairs,
and their flight was wonderfully rapid.
We were somewhat disappointed at not meeting
with lemurs in Madagascar. After having seen
so many in the Comoro Islands we had had hopes
of finding them in the Forét d’ Ambre, but although
several hours were spent there we saw none of
these beautiful creatures. The only mammal we
actually met with was the tenrec,* several of which
were caught by a small terrier belonging to our
guide. In one place, guided by the barking
of the dog, I found a family party of these strange-
looking “ hedgehogs’ under the roots of a fallen
tree, while, in an open tract of grass, lying near the
edge of the forest, the dog found several and killed
them all, in spite of the fearful smell which they
emitted on being annoyed.
Early in the afternoon, after our walk in this
fascinating forest, we returned to Diego Suarez.
We descended in the same tram as that used for
the ascent on the previous day, but so steep was
the slope that the tram slid down of its own accord,
and no mules were required until shortly before
we reached the town. While passing through a
* Centetes ecaudatus.
A WILD CAT 99
strip of forest we had a good view of a fossa,* a fine
cat peculiar to Madagascar, which stood in the
middle of the track and gazed at the car. When
we had approached to within about 50 yards,
however, it dashed off into the forest. In another
place we rushed through a party of guinea-fowls,
old and young, which scattered themselves right
and left to avoid the tram.
The following two days were spent in collecting
in the neighbourhood of the harbour. Here were
some of the largest sharks I have ever seen, and
every morning two or three of these monsters
were swimming idly round the yacht, but they
would not take a bait of any kind. They were in
every case surrounded by a shoal of sucking fish.
On March 9th, 1906, we left Madagascar for
Glorioso Island.
* Cryptoprocta ferox.
CHAPTER X.
GLORIOSO ISLAND.
Guogtioso, or l’Ile Glorieuse, which we sighted on
March 10th, 1906, belongs to France, and is at the
present time rented by a Frenchman, who grows
there a large quantity of cocoanuts for export.
It comprises besides the main island, which is
from a mile and a half to two miles long and about
a mile in breadth, a small, densely wooded islet, the
Tle de Lise, separated from the main island by
about three miles of very shallow water. Moreover,
between these two islands is a third, which is
little more than a large rock covered with grass,
on which thousands of noddy terns,* as well as
one or two pairs of boobies,t were nesting at the
time of our visit.
Glorioso is a coral island, but to all appearances
not of so ancient a formation as the neighbouring
islands of Assumption and Aldabra. A deep layer
of sand covers most of it, and on the leeward side
this has drifted into a fairly high ridge. At the
time of our visit, the greater part of the island was
* Anous stolidus. + Sula leucogasira.
[oot]
“€NV'ISI OSOINOTN LV DNIGNVT
THE ISLAND INHABITED 101
overgrown with trees and scrub, which in some
places had become so thick as to be impenetrable.
Here and there were groves of cocoanut trees,
and in one place a large plantation of maize.
Our information in Madagascar was to the effect
that Glorioso had no inhabitants, so that when
we put in to the sandy leeward shore we set off
immediately in different directions to collect.
It was with some surprise that, after a short walk,
I came upon a large field of maize in which two
negroes were working. They at once came to me,
and informed me that the owner of the island
wished to see me. I followed them to a small
settlement, almost hidden by casuarina trees.
Over one of the houses the French flag was flying.
On entering the house I was met by the pro-
prietor, who appeared to be somewhat indignant
at our landing on his territory without permission.
When matters were explained, however, he became
quite friendly, and after a while gave us permission
to collect or do whatever we liked on his property.
He informed me that he had rented Glorioso for
a term of years to cultivate all the spots suitable
for cocoanuts. The palms which he had already
planted appeared to be doing well indeed, for,
although young, they had already borne an ex-
cellent crop of nuts.
There are five resident species of land-birds
in Glorioso: all except one of these are identical
with Madagascan species. The only bird which
I
102 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
has been described as peculiar is a dove,* but since
we did not find it, although we walked nearly over
the whole of the island during our short stay, I
fear it must be nearly, if not quite, extinct. Great
frigate birds were most conspicuous. The males were
flying overhead, their scarlet pouches extended,
while the females were sitting upon their nests—
mere heaps of sticks placed near the top of tall
trees—or were crowded together in the tree-tops
in company with gannets.t Lord Crawford
shot several adult frigate birds to take home
in spirit, as it was not known by what means
this bird extends its pouch during the breeding
season.
Of the land-birds the white-eye, of the same
species as that seen in the Forét d’ Ambre, Madagas-
car, was the most abundant, and it was to be found
in great numbers all over the island. Now and
again a black kitet was observed sailing overhead.
This species is, as far as we could ascertain, only a
winter visitor to Glorioso, and it is at no time
abundant there. A few crows§ of the same
species as that found in the Comoros and Mada-
gascar are residents. It is somewhat surprising
that there is no rail on Glorioso, as on both Assump-
tion and Aldabra there are forms of this bird,
distinct but nearly allied to the rail of Madagascar.
We made particular enquiries of the proprietor
* Turtur coppingert. + Sula piscator.
t Milvus migrans. § Corvus scapulatus.
(gor)
‘aNVISI OSOIHOTO
HAWK-MOTHS AND TURTLES 103
on this subject, but he assured us that there was
no bird of the kind there.
Numbers of domestic fowls were running about
in a more or less wild state. They did not show
any signs of reversion to their ancestral form ;
on the contrary, those we met with were of all
kinds and colours, though very small; many of
them took to flight on being alarmed.
Butterflies and moths were numerous, and a
species of hawk-moth was hovering round the
flowers of a convolvulus in incredible numbers.
On several occasions we took three or more at
one sweep of the net.
There seems to be little fresh water here; as
far as we could see there was none at all on the
leeward side, and but a small pool near the
settlement, though I believe there is a well near
the house of the proprietor. This scarcity of
fresh water may account for the rareness of the
dove before mentioned, as pigeons and doves are
known to require plenty of water. I presume
that the fowls visit the settlement for water ;
at all events they were more numerous near the
houses than elsewhere.
Both the green turtle* and the hawksbillf were
abundant in the neighbourhood of Glorioso, the
latter being the more valuable, as it is from the
shell of this turtle that tortoise-shell is made. The
green turtles frequent the sandy beach to deposit
* Chelone mydas (Linn.). + Chelone imbricata (Schweigg).
iZ
104 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
their eggs, and the shore was covered with their
tracks. Two large ones were caught during our
stay, and were kept alive on board until we reached
Aldabra, when they were given to the overseer
of that island.
The second day of our stay off Glorioso was
spent on the neighbouring Ile de Lise. Landing
first on Glorioso, we took on board the proprietor,
who volunteered to act as our guide, and then we
started on a three mile row to our destination.
On the way we visited the rocky islet previously
mentioned as lying between the two _ islands.
Here was a large colony of sea-birds. Noddy
terns were all sitting on their eggs, most of which
were fresh. The eggs were laid in a shallow
depression on the grass, and the “ nests’ were so
close together that it was difficult to walk without
treading on the eggs. The gannets had not com-
menced to lay, while a few sooty terns,* which were
flying overhead, were evidently not nesting.
After a long and difficult “ pull,” owing to the
quickly falling tide, we at last reached Ile de Lise.
In spite of the thick growth of trees and bushes
there was not a bird of any kind to be seen—no
sign of a land or sea-bird, although, judging from
the dried remains of sooty terns on a bare portion
of the islet, I fancy that there must be a large colony
nesting there at some period of the year. There is
a roughly-built shed on the island, and close by
* Sterna fuliginosa.
[sor]
‘AdNVISI OSOIMOTO
FORMIDABLE ROBBER-CRABS 105
are two huge iron tanks filled with rainwater,
which is stored, as our host informed us, in case of
a ship being wrecked there.
The most interesting event of our excursion
was the discovery of several robber-crabs (Birgus
latro), a highly specialized form of hermit-crab
of huge proportions. It is a most formidable-
looking creature, and, unlike the hermit-crab,
carries no shell, but has the tail covered with a
jointed “armour,” like that of the lobster. The
robber-crab is of a reddish colour, though in some
specimens there is a tinge of blue both on the head
and on part of the upper surface of the body.
Its food is said to consist chiefly of cocoanuts,
but as there are none of these nuts on Ie de Lise
it feeds on maize, of which it devours enormous
quantities. Curiously enough, although plentiful
on Ile de Lise, this crab is not found on Glorioso
Island, and our host was fearful lest it should by
some means get across to his cocoanut plantations.
I examined several heads of maize, from which
the seed had been shorn off by the claws of this
crab; each head of corn had the appearance of
having been shaved with a sharp knife. The
robber-crab is nocturnal here, and during the day
hides in hollows up in the trees. We found several,
but they were so securely ensconced that we had
to hew part of the tree-trunks with an axe before
we could get at them. Their strength is terrific.
When held by the claws they twine their legs
106 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
round one’s hand and squeeze with a vice-like
grip. The huge claws are of prodigious strength,
and one of our sailors, who caught a small specimen,
had a piece of flesh cut clean out of the palm of
his hand by a single nip. The two crabs which we
secured were enclosed in a paraffin tin and brought
on board. Either these, or two others, which we
afterwards caught on Assumption Island, escaped
from the tin by tearing off a large piece near the
lid. After such an exhibition of strength, one can
more easily credit the accounts of the destruction
done to cocoanuts by these crabs.
On our way back to the ship we fell in with
numbers of both kinds of turtles and several large
fishes, probably barracuda. Leaving our host at
Glorioso and boarding the “ Valhalla,” we shortly
afterwards steamed away, bound for Assumption.
CHAPTER XI.
ASSUMPTION ISLAND.
Earty on the morning following our departure
from Glorioso, Assumption Island was sighted.
Assumption, like Glorioso, as I have previously
mentioned, is of coral formation, but apparently
of a much older date. It is about two miles long
by a mile in width, at the broadest part, and is
less thickly wooded than Glorioso. The central
part is almost bare of vegetation, the only growth
being a few low bushes (hibiscus), and a thin wiry
grass which springs from the cracks and fissures
in the coral. At one end of the windward side
is a mass of drifted sand, about 60 feet in height,
covered with low straggling bushes, while on the
leeward side there are a few casuarina trees, and
in one spot on the shore three cocoanut palms.
The shore is composed of sand, but the island
itself is a rock-like mass of coral. Close to the shore
are some deep wells containing water, but whether
salt or fresh we were unable to ascertain. These
wells are perfectly circular, and apparently of
natural formation. That there is a constant supply
108 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
of fresh water is proved by the numbers of in-
habitant land-birds, but, so far as we could as-
certain the water-supply is entirely dependent on
the rainfall. At the time of our visit there was
plenty of it, every depression in the coral being
full of sweet, clear water.
All these small islands to the north-west of
Madagascar are inhabited by a few species of land-
birds, and most of them have their peculiar species.
Previous to our landing on it, Assumption had
only once been visited by a naturalist—Dr. W.
L. Abbott—who landed there some years ago,
but I believe only for a very short time. We
therefore looked forward to our visit with pleasur-
able anticipation, and we were not disappointed,
for, apart from spending a most enjoyable time,
we were successful in obtaining, amongst other
interesting things, three previously undescribed
birds.
On first entering the belt of trees and low bushes
which fringes the shore, we were greeted by a chorus
of squeals and grunts, as though a litter of pigs
was hidden in the cover. This remarkable noise
proceeded from a number of rails,* birds much
like our water-rail but rather more stoutly built,
and with wine-red breasts, barred on the flanks
and belly with black and white. These rails
were very tame, and walked about close to us in a
perfectly unconcerned manner. We never saw
* Rallus abbottt.
fsoT]
‘NVHOO NVICGNI ‘QNVISI NOILAWASSV
A FLIGHTLESS RAIL 109
one of them fly, or even try to do so: they trusted
entirely to their legs when pursued. In several
patches of bush we came across family parties of
them, and although the young were mostly full-
grown and feathered, we saw several which were
still covered with black down. They were found
on all parts of the island, except on the summit of
the sandy hill on the windward side. While
uttering its remarkable note, this rail stands quite
still and puffs out all its feathers; from what I
observed I should say that the skin of the throat
is also expanded. The notes are loud—a strange
mixture of squealing, grunting and booming—
and during its song the bird appears to be gradually
collapsing, until at the end it is once more of
normal size. J have heard our English water-rail
utter a somewhat similar noise when near its nest,
but its cries are never so loud as those of the
Assumption rail. We caught two of them alive
and brought them safely to England, and they are
at the time I write living in the London Zoological
Gardens.
White-necked crows were present on the island
in small numbers, and were nesting in the tallest
trees, but I have no doubt that this species has
recently wandered hither from Madagascar or East
Africa.
Leaving the shore we found more open country,
and came across some large turtle-doves with brown
backs and claret-coloured breasts. These doves, of
110 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
which we obtained specimens, proved to belong to
a hitherto undescribed species,* nearly allied to
those inhabiting Aldabra and Glorioso; they
were remarkably tame, and could almost be caught
by hand. A few were nesting in the branches of
the hibiscus bushes, and one nest that we found
contained a single newly-hatched bird. Its flight
is somewhat heavy and laboured, and the bird is
remarkably unwilling to take to wing at all,
spending most of its time running on the ground
under the bushes, often in company with the
rails, with which it appears to be on excellent
terms.
We had not proceeded far before we heard the
long bubbling note of a lark-heeled cuckoo,{
and soon found the bird sitting in a thick bush near
its nest—a large domed structure built of dried
grasses, and containing two perfectly white eggs.
This ‘ cuckoo,” which is, by the way, not a true
cuckoo, builds its own nest and rears its own young.
The Assumption species is closely allied to the
one I have mentioned as seen in the Forét
d’Ambre, but is somewhat larger. Although they
were extraordinarily tame, we were unable to catch
any of them alive, as they rarely left the thickest
parts of the bushes.
The tameness of several of the birds on Assump-
* Turtur assumptionis, Nicoll, “‘ Bulletin Brit. Orn. Club,” Vol. XVI.,
p. 105.
+ Centropus assumptionis, Nicoll, “‘ Bulletin Brit, Orn. Club,” Vol.
XVI, p. 105.
TAMENESS OF THE BIRDS 111
tion was noteworthy. At first thought it would seem
to be accounted for by the fact that the island is
uninhabited and very seldom visited ; but if this
be the reason, one would expect all the birds to
be tame, which was not the case. Indeed, a small
heron, which proved to be a perfectly new species,*
was so wild that, although we saw a great number,
I was able to shoot only a single specimen. Also
the only small land-bird, a tiny sunbird,| which
is found nowhere else, was by no means tame.
On Saint Paul’s Rocks, as I have mentioned in a
previous chapter, one species of noddy tern is
quite tame, while the other is extremely shy and
wild, though there is probably no island in the
world more seldom visited by man. It would seem,
then, that tameness and timidity in birds are to a
great extent specific traits.
Unfortunately, rats have been imported by some
means into Assumption and are now very abundant.
There is little doubt that they devour many eggs
of the rail and of other birds which nest near the
ground, and should the rats increase to any extent,
there is a great danger of these interesting
birds becoming extinct in the near future.
All the rats which I shot were of a very pale
coloration, probably due to the nature of the
ground.
On the open ground near the foot of the sandhill
* Butorides crawfordt, Nicoll, ‘‘ Bulletin Brit. Orn. Club,” Vol. XVI.,
p- 105. + Cinnyris abbotti, Ridgway.
112 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
we came upon a flock of some twenty goats.
They were of many colours—black, white, grey, and
piebald—and some of the males were remarkably
fine animals. They were excessively wild, and
would not allow us to approach to within any
reasonable distance of them. They were originally
turned out to provide food for any shipwrecked
crew, and, as it so happened, we ourselves were all
but shipwrecked in the neighbourhood of this
island a few days later.
The sea round Assumption swarmed with fish,
and turtles were also very plentiful. At the time
of our visit the latter were in great numbers close
to the shore, where several were “‘ turned.” HHL JO SUAANILAW GHL AG LNA ASNOH NAGOOM
A MEETING 213
It may be that the Easter Island people paid
periodical visits, and, although we found no stone
axes on that island, it is quite probable that some
would be revealed by a careful search.
No mammals are indigenous to Pitcairn, but
rats have been imported by ships and their burrows
were seen in plenty. A number of goats, of which
we saw a large herd, run wild, and provide meat
for the inhabitants. Occasionally they are driven
in a valley to be counted, as only a certain number
may be shot annually.
We saw no butterflies on the island, but there
were many small moths, and one _ species—
Plutella maculipennis—was most abundant.
At sunset we went on board the yacht, which
was anchored off the settlement, but early next
morning a heavy squall arose and the anchor was
found to be dragging. Fortunately steam was up,
and we got away from the rocky shore, towards
which the wind had been rapidly carrying us,
without mishap. It was found afterwards that
the flukes of the anchor had been broken off,
probably by striking a rock when “let go” on
the previous morning. During the following day,
for as long as we remained at Pitcairn, the yacht
had to be hove to off the island.
During the morning we landed again and
attended in the large building previously mentioned
a meeting of the islanders, at the close of which
the National Anthem was sung. Each verse,
Q
214 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
written on a blackboard, was held up by a stalwart
native for everyone to read. The singing was
excellent, and in part singing I have rarely heard
its equal; every one of the islanders sang heartily
in perfect tune and time. At the close of this
meeting the Union Jack was hoisted over Mr.
McCoy’s house, and a salute of twenty-one guns
was thereupon fired from “‘ Valhalla.”’ Before we
left all the inhabitants visited the yacht, and
Lord Crawford was presented with a piece of iron
ballast and some copper nails, which had been
saved from the “ Bounty.”
Soon after mid-day we steamed slowly away,
and four boats laden with men and women singing
a farewell song followed for some distance in our
wake.
All the inhabitants of Pitcairn can speak perfect
English, but when speaking among themselves
they cannot easily be understood by a stranger,
as they then clip their words, sounding only the
first and last letters. Why they do this it is
difficult to say. When questioned, they replied
that they were talking their “own language,”
adding that this language only differed from
English in the above mentioned particular.
CHAPTER. XXII.
TAHITI—SOOCIETY ISLANDS.
Srx DAYS after leaving Pitcairn, Tahiti,* the largest
and most important of the Society Islands, was
sighted, and at 10 o’clock in the morning we
dropped anchor off the town of Papeete. The
barrier-reef protecting the harbour is almost
a-wash at low water, and we had to lie outside
and. wait for a pilot.
From this position a splendid view of the island
was obtained. A series of jagged peaks extends
through its whole length—peaks covered from
base to summit with dense forest, and intersected
by narrow gorges filled with rushing torrents of
clear water. The town of Papeete is built in a
clearing in the forest; between it and the
shore lies a stretch of grass dotted with trees,
many of which grow within a few feet of the sea
and overhang the water. The main street runs
parallel with the harbour, and a short distance
* Tahiti is often referred to as Otaheite. This name, we were
assured by the Tahitians, is incorrect, and originated from a mistake
made by Captain Cook.
ne?
216 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
inland we could see the French flag flying over
Government House.
The pilot, after a little delay, made his appear-
ance, and, taking us safely through the opening in
the reef into the still water beyond, brought us to
an anchorage close up to the town.
It is forbidden to shoot birds both on Tahiti
and on the neighbouring island of Eimeo, nor
were we able to obtain permission from the
Governor to collect for scientific purposes. During
the whole of our stay, which lasted for nearly a
fortnight, we saw very few birds indeed. A swift
of a species of Collocalia was most frequently seen ;
this, with a few small grass-finches and a single
thrush-like bird, completed the list of indigenous
land-birds met with by us. The Indian mynah
was introduced some years ago for the purpose of
destroying a large yellow-bodied wasp which is so
numerous as to be a pest. The mynah increased
enormously, and is now very plentiful, but the
number of wasps remains the same. There can
be little doubt that it is entirely owing to the
presence of this bird that the native species have
become so scarce.
Sea-birds were also scarce, the greater frigate
birds,* tropic birds, and noddiest} were occasionally
observed, while white terns{ were seen in some
numbers flying round the palm trees, on the leaves
of which they lay their single egg. Both blue
* Fregata aquila. ft Anous stolidus. t Gygis alba.
A REMARKABLE SANDPIPER = 217
and white forms of a small heron* were seen to-
gether on a small islet, and lastly, at the mouth
of a river at Tautira, some miles from Papeete,
a single sandpipert was met with.
Tahiti at one time was the home of a handsome
sandpipert{ so aberrant as to be placed in a genus
by itself. The bird was discovered by Captain
Cook, and the only specimen of it now in existence
is in the Leyden Museum. Dr. Bowdler Sharpe
has lately described, from an old coloured figure,
a second species of the genus from the neighbouring
island of Eimeo. There is, of course, a chance
that the Prosobonia may yet be re-discovered on
Tahiti, or on one of the neighbouring islands,
for the group has been by no means thoroughly
explored.
We paid several visits to the barrier-reef, where
the water was so clear that we could see every-
thing as in a glass tank. There were many large
holothurians, one of which on being captured
ejected an example of the long silvery fish which
has been described as living in these “ sea-slugs.”’
The coral was covered in many places with sea-
urchins, which were possessed of spines three or
four inches in length, so that when walking on the
reef great care had to be taken to prevent a nasty
wound.
One evening we watched some natives spearing
* Demiegretta sacra. } Totanus incanus.
{ Prosobonia leucoptera.
218 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
fish by torch-light. Two canoes paddled out a
few yards apart until they were exactly over the
reef. A torch, composed of dead leaves of the
cocoanut palm, was then lighted and waved to
and fro until the fish, attracted by the glare, rose
to the surface of the water and swam near the
boats. Then followed a delightful exhibition of
skill. A native standing up in the bows of his
canoe would hurl his long spear at a fish as it
crossed in front of him, and so deadly was the aim
that even small fish, several yards distant, were
seldom fortunate enough to escape. The spears
were made of light wood, with five straightened
fish-hooks bound in a cluster at the end.
Afterwards we all waded on the reef attempting,
in native fashion, to spear the fish as they darted
about in the masses of coral, but we were not very
successful, and soon were glad to abandon the sport,
since several of us were badly pricked by the
sea-urchins, the spines of which broke off short
after entering the flesh and produced intense pain.
One day our friends on shore arranged a picnic
in our honour at a place called Fautawa, which
was reached by about an hour’s drive through
magnificent scenery. The road for a great part of
the way led along the edge of a mountain stream,
winding through a deep valley in which Fautawa
is situated. At the top of the valley there
towered above us a tall peak the summit of which
was composed of a series of jagged points clustered
A PICNIC 219
together in the shape of a crown. Having arrived
at our destination we were in time to see the last
of the festal preparations made by the natives
for our entertainment—the removal of the sucking-
pig from the oven. The oven was a hole dug in
the ground and lined with large stones which had
been previously heated in a fire. Banana leaves
had been placed over the hot stones, then the pig
had been laid in whole and completely buried,
first with the banana leaves, and finally with a
layer of earth. Here it had remained for an hour
or more, and certainly when it was exhumed it
was perfectly cooked, and served up with plantains
it made a most palatable dish. We were given
several other native dishes, of which the most
choice perhaps was the famous “cocoanut salad.”
This salad is made of the heart of the green top of
a cocoanut tree, and as each salad involves the
destruction of a tree, it is only prepared on a special
occasion.
After a few days’ stay at Papeete we were
invited to pay a visit to the village of Tautira,
which is reputed to be the most picturesque spot
in Tahiti. We gladly accepted the invitation,
and got under weigh early one morning. Steam-
ing close to the land we had a fine view of the
wild rugged coast, and of the high jagged peaks
with their cloud-covered summits. Many water-
falls, looking in the distance like threads of silver,
were falling sheer down the precipitous wall of
220 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
rock which forms the coast in this part of Tahiti.
Now and again valleys would open into view,
and down them sparkling rivers rushed into the
sea.
It was late in the afternoon when we reached
Tautira, and a boat at once put off from the
shore. In it came the chief of the village, who
piloted us safely through the passage in the reef.
We anchored off the mouth of the small river,
near the banks of which the village of Tautira is
built.
The barrier-reef in this part of the island is
almost a-wash at high tide; it is nearly semi-
circular in shape, and so perfectly flat on the top
that, as we entered the passage, we seemed to be
steaming through a gateway in a low wall.
The shore is a strip of red-coloured sand, with
a narrow belt of cocoanut palms. Behind the
palm trees lies the village, and beyond rises a
magnificent range of hills clothed to the summit
with almost impenetrable forests. The houses are
well built, of native pattern ; the walls are made
of upright bamboos, with a half-inch space between
each to allow a free passage of air into the house.
Rows of mats are so arranged that they can be
let down to cover the walls in case of rain, while
at other times they are rolled up under the eaves.
All the houses are thatched with leaves of either
the cocoanut palm or pandanus.
The surroundings of Tautira are very beautiful.
[oz]
‘LIHVL ‘ValLavi
CLIMBING FOR COCOANUTS 221
The ground is covered with a thick growth of
green grass, studded with hibiscus and other
flowering plants, while orange trees grow in great
profusion.
In Tahiti, as well as in most of the South Sea
Islands, great numbers of cocoanuts are grown,
and after being dried for copra are shipped in large
quantities to Europe. We were much interested
in the different methods of gathering the nuts in
various islands. In Tahiti the natives climb the
trees with the help of a strip of green fibrous bark
torn off the stem of a hibiscus tree. After knotting
the two ends together, the climber slips his feet
half through the circle, and, standing with his legs
apart, so as to stretch the thong tight, ascends the
tree in a series of leaps, with a foot on each side of
the trunk. A practised climber will thus mount
trees of a very considerable height with a celerity
and ease which do not suggest the long practice
actually required. On making a trial myself,
I found it difficult to climb even so much as a foot
from the ground.
In its fresh green state the cocoanut provides
a most refreshing drink, but as it grows older the
“milk”? hardens and forms the white kernel with
which we are all familiar. This kernel is the
celebrated copra, and is commercially put to
many different uses. In Tahiti it is used for sauces
and for cocoanut oil. One sauce, which was served
with fish at the above-mentioned picnic, although
222 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
compounded of scraped nut and sea-water, was
really quite palatable.
At Tautira one of the sailors brought me the
dried shell of a cocoanut which he told me was full
of lizards. I at once plugged the “ eye-holes”’
and took the nutshell on board, where a careful
examination showed that it contained 136 lizard
eggs, 294 empty egg-shells, and 13 newly-hatched
lizards. It would seem, therefore, that many
females of this species* repair to the same place
to deposit their eggs. The eggs themselves were
found to be in all stages of incubation, from
““newly-laid ”’ to shells containing perfect lizards.
I afterwards found several hundreds of eggs of
this species in a hole in the ground, close to the
sea, at Papeete. Butterflies were very scarce
on Tahiti; at Papeete we met with only one
species ;[ and on a small coral island some miles
from Tautira, with but one more.t A large
hawk-moth, much resembling the well-known
convolvulus hawk-moth, was caught on board
while we were at anchor. Five species of Micro-
lepidoptera were also caught at the poop light.
These have been determined by Lord Wasingham,
who has described one as a new species under the
name of Pyroderces crawfordi.
Mosquitoes§ were extremely troublesome on
shore, but very few appeared on the ship until
* Lygosoma cyanurum. + Nipara eleutha var. walkeri.
t Hypolimnas bolina var. thomsoni. § Stegomyia fasciata.
HABITS OF LAND-CRABS 223
after we left the island, when we discovered that
they had been breeding freely in a can of water
containing a growing ti plant.
Everywhere along the sea-shore and about the
villages the ground was honeycombed with the
burrows of land-crabs, and in some places the
whole surface appeared to be moving with these
creatures. At the least alarm they popped into
their holes, from which they never strayed far
during the day. When chased, a crab would often
hurry into the wrong burrow, and be ejected im-
mediately by the rightful owner, but the inhospi-
tality did not help one to catch them, owing to
the speed with which they vanished ultimately
underground. If one stood quite still they would
reappear at the mouth of the burrow, waving
their stalk-eyes in all directions on the look-out
for danger. I caught one by cutting it off from
its burrow and driving it against a fallen tree,
where it turned at bay, rolling its eyes and waving
its claws in a formidable manner.
Some of the smaller species of land-crabs
on these islands have yellow, others bright blue,
claws, and one gains a striking impression of
colour when some hundreds of these crabs wave
their bright claws as they run over the dried mud.
close to the sea.
During our stay at Tautira our friends arranged
a native concert. This consisted of the singing of
““himinees.”” About one hundred natives sat in
224 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
a semi-circle cross-legged on the grass, facing a
conductor who gave out the words of the song in a
loud voice. The subject of the song, usually
chosen on the spur of the moment, refers to some
topic of local interest ; on this occasion the arrival
of the “ Valhalla” was the chosen theme. The
singing was somewhat weird, but by no means
displeasing, and the entertainment would be
varied frequently by the conductor, who would
leave his seat and run a few paces towards us,
shouting and stamping, before he turned again
to the performers to urge them to greater efforts.
The day before we left Tautira the ship was
visited by a continual stream of canoes, which came
from far and near, bringing gifts of fruit, etc., to
Lord Crawford. By nightfall the “ Valhalla” had
the appearance of a huge vegetable and fruit
market; there must have been at least a ton of
bananas, oranges, plantain, cocoanuts and other
fruit on board, as well as several Muscovy ducks
and a little piebald pig. When all was aboard the
chief of Tautira, one of the finest looking men I
have ever seen, made a speech, and then formally
presented the gifts.
At ten o’clock the next morning we left Tautira
for Papeete again, to complete our coaling, which
took a long time owing to the scarcity of lighters.
During our last day at Tahiti we were confined
to the ship by one of the heaviest storms I have
ever witnessed, the rain falling in such torrents
HOSPITABLE TAHITIANS 225
that in a few minutes the streets were literally
full of water.
Early on the morning of 17th April, 1903, we
left Tahiti, and in a few minutes the island was
completely hidden in rain clouds. During our
visit we were treated with the greatest kindness
by the inhabitants, who, with the characteristic
hospitality of the Tahitian, gave up the whole of
their time in order that we might see the many
beauties of their island home ; and our stay, which
had been all too short, will ever be recollected as
one of the most delightful experiences enjoyed
during the voyages of “ Valhalla.”
Shortly after leaving Tahiti on the morning of
17th April we passed close to EKimeo, or Morea, as
it is now called. We had made arrangements to
visit this island, but our plans were upset by
unavoidable circumstances, and only a distant
view of its beauties was obtained. It rises almost
perpendicularly from the sea; the summit is
composed. of a series of peaks so sharp and even
that they somewhat resemble the teeth of a
gigantic comb. Through one of these peaks
there is a large boring known as the Giant’s Spear
Hole, which is discernible from Papeete Harbour,
some twenty miles distant.
CHAPTER XXIII.
TUTUILA ISLAND, SAMOA.
ArteR leaving Tahiti our course was laid for
Tutuila Island, one of the Samoan group, and six
days later we arrived off the mouth of the harbour
of Pago-Pago.* After waiting in vain for a pilot
we entered the harbour without one, and steamed
through the narrow intricate passage which ex-
tends for some distance towards the centre of the
island where the town is situated.
Tutuila belongs to the United States of America,
and is used principally as a coaling station for their
ships, and the harbour of Pago-Pago is undoubtedly
one of the best anchorages in the South Pacific
Islands, owing to its sheltered position.
Our visit was made solely for the purpose of
obtaining coal, but, being unable to get a supply
there, we were forced to leave almost immediately
for Apia. Thus only one day was spent ashore,
and it was impossible in the short time to do much
in the way of collecting.
* Pronounced “ Pango-Pango.”
A WET CLIMATE 227
Tutuila is apparently of volcanic origin, and the
harbour is the centre of an ancient crater. From
information given to us I imagine that the highest
point in the island, the whole of which is covered
with dense forest, is about 2500 feet above
sea-level. The climate is very hot and damp,
and the annual rainfall is considerable. During
our stay rain fell heavily and without intermission,
so that collecting under these conditions was by
no means easy or pleasant. A butterfly net was
soaked through in a very few minutes, and
cartridges swelled to such an extent that shooting
was almost out of the question. I managed to
keep a few dry by carrying them in a sponge-bag
—a most useful plan in a damp climate.
Butterflies and moths were extremely numerous,
and a considerable number was obtained in spite
of the wet weather. A large sphinx moth was
hovering round the flowering bushes, apparently
undisturbed by the rain, and several smaller
kinds of moths were continually beaten out of the
soaking wet grass. Birds were fairly abundant; the
most numerous being a small greenish-coloured
species, with a moderately long curved bill, the
gape of which was adorned with two orange-
coloured wattles which extended over the cheeks.
This bird—Ptilotis carunculata—is peculiar to
the Samoan Islands, though other species, more or
less closely allied, are found on the Fijis and in
Australia and New Guinea.
228 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
A fine kingfisher,* apparently restricted to the
wooded hillsides but common there, was feeding
entirely upon insects, especially the larve of some
species of moth. In the cocoanut palms a small
paroquet was seen, but not obtained, and a little
sunbird,{ of a vivid scarlet and black, was feeding
among the blossoms of the trees.
The most striking mammal was the fruit bat,t
numbers of which were seen flying about over the
trees even in broad daylight, while at dusk so
many of these huge bats came down from the high
forests, that we judged there must be a large
colony of them at no great distance from
Pago-Pago.
Dr. Macdonald and I climbed a pass between
two high peaks. For some distance the path led
through a plantation of cocoanut trees, where
one of the natives engaged in gathering the fruit
offered to climb a tree and procure nuts for us.
Armed with a huge knife he approached a cocoa-
nut tree, and with a sudden downward and side-
ward stroke cut a small notch in the bark, into
which he put the toe of one foot while he cut another
notch with great rapidity a little above the first,
then cutting notch after notch with marvellous
rapidity he ascended the tree.
While drinking the juice or “milk” of the
cocoanuts, we entered into conversation with this
* Halcyon pealit. { Myzomela nigriventris.
{ Pteropus ruficollis.
FRUIT BATS 229
man. He was a finely built fellow; except for a
waist-cloth of tappa* he wore no clothing, but
nearly the whole of his body was covered with
tatooing. On one arm we noticed a number of
tatooed stripes, and on asking the reason for these
bands we were informed that they signified the
number of wives he possessed. He had, as far as
I can remember, seven such stripes.
After leaving the cocoanut grove we entered the
forest, and a short time afterwards gained the
crest of the island. Here a fine view was obtained.
On one side Pago-Pago harbour, looking like a
small pond below us, on the other, the far side of
the island sloping gradually downward, towards
a large village situated on the sea-shore.
At the top of this pass we saw numbers of noddy
terns,t also a few bosun or tropic birds, but no
specimens were obtained. Fruit bats were very
numerous, and were continually sailing high over
our heads, evidently disturbed by the sounds of
the shots we had fired.
Throughout the day we were unable to get
within shot of the fruit bats, and as I much wished
to obtain a specimen, I landed again late in the
evening, but, although they were then flying lower,
I did not secure one. I afterwards shot one
example on Upolu Island, and have no doubt
that it is the same species as that inhabiting
* A strong, stiff cloth made from the bark of the bread-fruit tree.
t Anous stolidus.
R
230 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
Tutuila, as these two islands are in sight of one
another, and fruit-bats can fly great distances.
The damage these creatures cause to the cocoanut
and banana trees must be very great.
A number of natives gathered together on the
shore to watch our departure. The rain was falling
in torrents, and removing their scanty clothing
they carried it under their arms rolled up in banana
leaves. Nevertheless, most of them had umbrellas
to protect their heads from the rain—a ridiculous
sight but a very necessary precaution, for it is
the fashion in the Samoan Islands to dress the hair
with lime, which, when exposed to the rain, runs
down into the eyes and often causes blindness.
Most of the natives are blind in one eye from this
cause, and consequently considerable care has to
be taken to keep the head dry during wet weather.
The men without umbrellas kept their hair tightly
bound up and well covered with banana leaves.
In Tutuila we first saw that dread disease
“‘ Hlephantiasis,” which is said to arise from the
bites of mosquitoes. In these islands nearly 25
per cent. of the inhabitants were suffering from
this disease, some having enlarged arms, others
legs swollen to the size of a bolster, while others
again were afflicted in various parts of the body.
A man, apparently strong and well, but with one
arm twice the thickness of the other, was no
uncommon sight.
CHAPTER XXIV.
UPOLU ISLAND, SAMOA.
Asovur twelve hours after leaving Tutuila we
entered the harbour of Apia, the capital of Upolu,
and the principal town of the Samoan group.
Rain was falling heavily and the island and harbour
had a dismal appearance. Much wreckage was
lying about on the shore, a forcible reminder of
the fearful hurricane when H.M.S. “Calliope ”
was the only vessel to escape out of the many
anchored in the harbour at the time.
The anchorage is by no means good. Reefs
are plentiful, and some of them are just a-wash
at low water, and there are no islets or pro-
montories sufficient to shelter ships at anchor,
should there be an on-shore wind.
On some of the reefs we saw some natives
fly-fishing. Standing up to the waist in water,
they were flogging away with what seemed to be
indifferent success. We afterwards had an oppor-
tunity of examining the tackle used by the Samoans.
It proved to consist of a stout bamboo rod, to the
point of which a strong line was attached; at
R2
232 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
the end of the line a piece of wood about six inches
long was tied crossways ; and to each end of this
a black feather-fly of large proportions was tied.
These two flies, not to mention the piece of wood
to which they were attached, seemed quite enough
to scare away any fish, but for all that we saw many
small fish of about half-a-pound weight taken by
these means.
Wishing to know the regulations with regard to
shooting on the island, Dr. Macdonald and I visited
the vice-consul. During our conversation with
him we learnt that he had been many years in
the Samoan Islands, and as I was most anxious
to see a living example of the tooth-billed pigeon,*
or ““manu mea,” as it is called by the natives,
I closely questioned the consul about it. He told
us that it was not uncommon in some parts of the
interior of the island where it appears to live in
colonies. The nearest place where he knew it
could be found was, however, a two days’ journey
from Apia, and as we were only to stay at the
island for three days an expedition thither was out
of the question. I asked him if he could at once
send a native to get a living example; he promised
to do so, but the man did not return before our
departure.
The following morning I went for a long walk
on the sea-shore, returning by a path through
the cultivated land. The sandy beach swarmed
* Didunculus strigtrostris.
THE HOSPITABLE SAMOAN 233
with shore-birds, sandpipers* and a small species
of golden plovert—the latter to be seen in vast
numbers—were the most conspicuous. At the
mouth of a small river I saw some rails, and
amongst the birds I shot was a brilliant scarlet
and black sunbird.{ The small parrot seen on
Tutuila was also observed here in the cocoanut
trees, but owing to its extreme shyness no
specimens were obtained.
During this walk, which led me some distance
from the town, I was able to get an idea of the
hospitable nature of the unspoilt Samoan native.
Happening to enter a village on the banks of a
small river, I was at once accosted by the head-
man, who, by signs, invited me into his house
for refreshment. The house, like all those in
Samoa, was little more than a roof supported on
long beams of wood, the walls being merely mats,
which could be let down in bad weather. The
floor was covered with large mats which, like those
ot the walls, were made of the leaves of the
pandanus, or screw-pine, most neatly and strongly
woven together. The people sleep on the floor,
their heads, or rather necks, resting on a thick
bamboo pillar, raised about an inch from the floor
by means of long crossed pieces of wood, shaped
like the letter X, and fastened one at each end of
the bamboo.
* Totanus incanus. + Charadrius fulvus.
t Myzomela nigriventris.
234 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
The kindly chief gave me oranges, bananas,
and cocoanuts, and after the repast, clapped his
hands for “kava” to be brought in. I was
then enabled to have my first taste of the national
drink of the Samoan and Fiji Islanders, and as I
have never seen a full description of the manner
in which kava is prepared, or the ceremony of its
drinking, I will describe here what I saw.
A large wooden bowl, its surface highly polished
by constant use, supported on four short wooden
legs, was first placed in position; then facing it
we all sat cross-legged on the ground in a semi-
circle, and when all were seated the “ taupau ”
or chief dancing girl of the village, to whom only
the preparation of the kava is entrusted, entered,
and took her seat facing us behind the bowl.
A lump of kava* was next produced and cut up into
pieces of about the size of a walnut; these were
beaten into shreds between two stones,+ and then,
being placed in the bowl, were covered with water
brought in cocoanut shells from the nearest
spring. When the bowl was nearly three parts
full of water, a bunch of fibres, made from the
inner bark of the hibiscus, was handed to the girl,
who after vigorously stirring the liquid, scooped
* The dried root of a pepper tree.
+ Formerly the shredding of the kava root was done by the “ taupaus ”
chewing the root, but this custom is now prohibited by law. In one
village, situated some distance from the capital, I saw kava prepared
in the original way ; but so cleverly and quickly was it done that, had
I not been especially looking out for it, I should not have noticed
anything unusual
CEREMONY OF KAVA DRINKING 235
out a mass of sodden kava root and handed the
fibres to an attendant, who carried them outside.
This proceeding having been repeated several
times, the kava was declared, amidst a clapping
of hands, to be ready. The taupau thereupon
dipped a large cocoanut shell, holding about a pint,
into the bowl and carried it first to the most im-
portant guest, and then to all the others in turn.
The cup is delivered with a most graceful down-
ward and then upward swing of the arm, and the
guest, still sitting cross-legged, takes the cup and
calling loudly ‘‘ Manuia,” drains it at a draught.
No sipping isallowed, and to anyone not accustomed
to kava the experience is by no means pleasant.
Kava looks like soapy water, and the taste of it—
well, anyone desirous of ascertaining what it
tastes like can make a very good imitation by
mixing a dessert-spoonful of ‘‘ Gregory ” powder
in a tumbler of water. Having drained the
contents, one passes the cocoanut shell back to
the donor. This may be done in two ways. An
experienced drinker throws the shell in such a
manner that it spins round in the air and falls
“dead” at the foot of the bowl. A less ex-
perienced guest had better hand it back with a
bow as the easiest way out of a difficulty, for it
is considered the height of bad manners if the cup
is thrown so as to roll even a short way past the
kava bowl.
Europeans who have lived for several years in
236 VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
these islands assured us that they became so
accustomed to drinking kava that they acquired
a taste for it, but we never took it without an
inward shiver.
A too liberal indulgence of this drink causes
temporary paralysis of the legs from the knees
downwards, as well as a numbing sensation of the
tongue, though we were told that even at this stage
the brain remains perfectly clear.
The vice-consul had very kindly invited me to
visit his farm, about three miles from Apia, and
there I spent the second day of our stay. It was
very warm work walking thither, as the whole way
was uphill under a blazing sun. Arriving at the
farm, I struck off into the forest with a guide in
search of birds. The most numerous and probably
the most beautifully coloured of all the birds in
Samoa is a small dove,* of about the size of a
turtle-dove, with an emerald green back, a ruby
red crown, and a brilliantly-coloured breast of
several shades of red and yellow.
We climbed up the hillside for a considerable
distance, and from the highest point we had a
distant view of the grave of Robert Louis
Stevenson, who was buried on the top of the hill
overlooking Apia Harbour. I was most anxious
to visit this spot, but we were forced to abandon
the idea as the day was drawing to a close.
The day before our departure from Apia the
* Ptilopus fasciatus.
THE KING OF SAMOA 237
King of Samoa, Mataafa, paid a visit to Lord
Crawford on board the yacht. He was quite
unexpected, and at the time we were entertaining
a large party of native chiefs and their families,
about thirty of whom were sitting in the saloon.
Suddenly the king was announced, and we were
somewhat astonished to see all our guests vacate
their chairs and sit on the floor. This, however,
so they told us afterwards, is the correct thing to
do when in the presence of their king. He was
a very striking looking old man, dressed in a
plain white coat and kilt, his only ornament being
a thick gold chain, which he wore round his neck.
The Samoan Islands, with the exception of
Tutuila, belong to Germany, and are ruled by a
Governor. So Mataafa is now a king in name
only. Nevertheless he appears to be an im-
portant personage amongst his subjects, all of
whom treat him with the greatest respect.
Our last evening in Apia was spent at a native
dance, which provided one of the most picturesque
scenes we witnessed during this voyage. We sat
in a semi-circle round a large covered enclosure,
and faced the dancers, of whom there were about
forty, all in native dress.
The Samoan “ dance,” or “ Siva,” as it is called,
consists chiefly of a series of arm exercises
accompanied by a weird chanting and clapping
of hands. The proceedings were brought to a
close by a kava drink, for which the most remark-
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ADIEU TO THE SOUTH SEAS = 239
ably beautiful cups were used. They were made
from shells of cocoanuts polished and re-polished
to such an extent that they had become scarcely
thicker than eggshells, and had darkened to a
deep black colour. We were informed that these
cups were very valuable owing to the great amount
of labour required for their manufacture; they
were only used on very special occasions.
On 3rd May, four days after leaving the Samoan
Islands, the ‘‘ Valhalla’ came to anchor off the
town of Suva, the capital of the Fiji Islands. A
very short time was spent here, and we conse-
quently saw very little of interest. The town
of Suva is as unlike a South Sea Island town as can
possibly be imagined. Shops of all kinds are
scattered along the whole length of the sea-front,
and it is almost impossible to realize that
cannibalism was once rampant in this island.
Sailing from Suva on 6th May, 1903, we bade
adieu to the South Sea Islands, amongst which
so many delightful and never-to-be-forgotten days
had been spent. Every year these islands are
more and more visited by ships from all parts of
the world, and each year brings to their inhabit-
ants the very doubtful blessings of civilization.
The people living in the less accessible parts,
although quickly becoming spoiled by European
influence, are quite superior, not only in appear-
ance, but in manners and physique, to those of
the larger towns.
INDEX.
abbottii, Cinnyris, 111.
Ibis, 119.
—— Rallus, 108.
acunhae, Nesospiza, 66.
equinoctialis, Majaqueus, 71.
ethtopica, Ibis, 78.
alba, Gygis, 14, 51, 56, 203, 210,
212, 216.
Albatroses, 158, 187.
—— (Diomedea chlororhynca), 65,
67, 68, 71.
—— (D. exulans), 65, 158. |
—— (D. fuliginosa), 65, 68, 72, 158.
(D. melanophrys), 72.
albiceps, Elainea, 166.
Aldabra Island, 114-124.
aldabranus, Dicrurus, 117.
Nesacanthus, 116.
— Turtur, 117.
aldabrensis, Caprimulgus, 123.
Ambre, Cape, Camp, Forét d’, 93.
americana, Rhea, 167.
americanus, Podiceps, 185.
amgulifer, Dromicus, 154.
Ani, black, 147.
Anjouan (Comoro Islands), 88.
antarcticus, Fagus, 163.
Ants, 29, 31.
Apia, 231, 236.
aquila, Fregata, 14, 48, 60, 102, 216.
ardeola, Dromas, 85, 118.
ariel, Fregata, 49.
arminjoniana, Gstrelata, 157.
Assumption Island, 107-113.
assumptionis, Centropus, 110.
Turtur, 110.
Astove (coral island), 123.
atratus, Cathartes, 30.
atriceps, Phalacrocorax, 167.
aura, Cathartes, 30.
auricapilla, Dendreca, 147.
auriculata, Zenaida, 15.
Bahia, 20-36.
barbatus, Chrysomitris, 167.
barkleyt, Coracopsis, 131.
Barracuda (fish), 106.
Beeches: Antarctic (Fagus “ant-
arcticus), 163.
evergreen (Ff. betuloides), 163.
Bee-eaters, green (Merops super-
ciliosus), 91.
Beri-beri disease, 35.
betuloides, Fagus, 163.
bicolor, Euethia, 141.
Blackbird(Turdus magellanicus),172.
bolina, Hypolimnas, 222.
Boobies, 3, 4, 10.
brachypterus, 171.
braziliensis, Nettion, 33.
Scops, 30.
Bulbul (Ixocincla crassirostris), 131.
Buntings (Zonotrichia canicapilia),
166.
Butterflies, 16, 21, 27, 213, 227.
—— (Hypolimnas bolina), 222.
—— (Nipara eleutha), 222.
““Buzi’’ (Comoro Islands), 87.
cana, Agapornis, 87, 97.
canescens, Totanus, 85.
canicapilla, Zonotrichia, 166.
“Cape hen” (Majaqueus equinoc-
tialis), 71.
Cape Town, 71.
capensis, Motacilla, 80.
Phalacrocorax, 77.
Caracara, 20.
carolinensis, Galeoscoptes, 149.
carunculata, Ptilotis, 227.
Casuarina trees, 101, 115.
Catamarans, 19.
Cats, 29, 203.
“Cavalli” (fish), 6.
Cayman Islands, 144-154.
caymanensis, Melanerpes, 149.
Quiscalus, 151.
chilensis, Megalestris, 162, 167.
chlororhyncha, Diomedea, 65, 67,
68, 71.
Churruca Bay, 173.
cinereus, Tachyeres, 163.
242
Cocoanut trees, 18, 219, 228, 233.
““ Coco de Mer,” 132.
Collocalia, 216.
comorensis, Coracopsis, 89.
Pteropus, 87.
Comoro Islands, 82-92.
Condors (Sarcorhamphus gryphus),
163.
coppingert, Turiur, 102.
Copra, 221.
Cormorants, 71, 173.
(Phalacrocorax atriceps), 167.
—— (P. capensis), 77.
—— (P. neglectus), 77.
(P. vigua), 183.
coronata, Dendreca, 147.
corvina, Terpsiphone, 130.
Cosmoledo (coral island), 123.
Crab-plovers (Dromas ardeola), 85, °
118.
Crabs, 3, 181; land-crabs, 43, 45,
58, 91, 223 ; robber-crabs (Birqus
latro), 105, 112, 122; spider-crabs,
180.
crassirostris, Ixocincla, 131.
crawfordt, Buteroides, 111.
—— Corvina, 160.
—— Dendreca, 154.
—— Gygis, 44.
—— Pyroderces, 222.
creatopus, Puffinus, 189.
cristata, Corythornis, 85.
Crows (Corvus scapulatus), 102, 109.
Cuckoos (Coccyzus maynard), 148.
lark-heeled, 96, 110.
Curieuse (island), 130.
Curlews, 85.
Curlew-Sandpipers, 83.
cyanurum, Lygosoma, 209, 222.
dacunhae, Pelecanoides, 67.
Dassen Island, 70-81.
delicata, Gallinago, 33.
demursus, Spheniscus, 161.
depressa, Nertera, 69.
desmursi, Sylviorthorynchus, 186.
Diego Suarez, 92.
discolor, Dendreca, 147.
Dolphins, 162.
dominicanus, Larus, 78, 190.
Dotterel (Hudromias modesta), 172.
Doves (Turtur aldabranus), 117, 123.
(T. assumptionis), 109.
—— (T. coppingert), 102.
—— (Ptilopus fasciatus), 236.
—— (Zenaida anriculata), 15.
VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
Easter Island, 192-206.
ecaudatus, Centetes, 90, 98.
Eden Harbour, 182.
Egrets, sacred (Demiegretta sacra),
117, 217.
Eimeo (island), 216, 225.
Elephantiasis, 230.
| elephantina, Testudo, 115.
eleutha, Nipara, 222.
eminentissima, Nesocanthis,
eremtta, Nesochicla, 65.
Europa Island, 82.
exulans, Diomedea, 65, 158.
86.
fasciata, Stegomyia, 212, 222.
fasciatus, Ptilopus, 236.
Fautawa, 218.
Felicité Island, 129.
Fernando de Noronha, 11-20.
ferox, Cryptoprocta, 99.
Myiarchus, 32.
Fiji Islands, 239.
Finches (Huethia bicolor), 141, 216.
(Nesospiza acunhae), 66.
Fishing : at St. Paul’s Rocks, 6, 10;
at Tahiti, 217; at Upolu, 231.
flaviventris, Motacilla, 96.
Flycatchers (EHlainea albiceps), 166.
(EZ. martinica), 141.
(Myiarchus ferox), 32.
(M. pelzelni), 32.
(Pitangus caymanensis), 151.
—— (Terpsiphone corvina), 130.
—— (1. lindsayt), 86.
—— (Lyrannus melancholicus), 32.
Flying fish, 3.
Fossa (Cryptoprocta ferox), 99.
Fowls, domestic, in a wild state,
103.
francisce, Astur, 95.
franklini, Larus, 188.
Frigate birds, 119, 153.
great (Pregata aquila), 14, 48,
60, 102, 216.
lesser (#. ariel), 49.
Fruit: bananas, 208, 224; cocoa-
nuts, 18, 208, 224; figs, 16;
guavas, 150; limes, 208; man-
goes, 30; oranges, 224; plan-
tains, 219, 224; sapodillas, 18 ;
water-melons, 208.
Fruit bats (Pteropus comorensis), 87.
(P. rufficollis), 228-230.
Fuegians, 174, 175, 181, 184.
fuliginosa, Diomedea, 65, 68, 69, 72.
—— Sterna, 17, 60, 61, 104.
INDEX
fulvus, Charadrius, 233.
fumosa, Chetura, 32.
Gannets, 2, 152, 153.
—— (Sula leucogaster), 3.
(S. piscator), 47, 61, 102.
garnoti, Pelecanoides, 160.
George Town, 145.
Glorioso Island, 99-106.
Goats, 41, 112, 213.
gobio, Aphrites, 180.
Goby (Periophthalmus koebreutert),
91
Goose, 203 (Chloéphaga poliocephala),
183.
kelp (C. magellanica), 162, 167,
178.
gracilirostris, Vireo, 16.
gracilis, Tachornis, 91.
Tinnunculus, 128.
gravis, Puffinus, 64.
Gray’s Harbour, 185, 187.
Grebes (Podiceps americanus), 185.
Greenshanks (Totanus canescens),85.
griseus, Puffinus, 189.
Ground-sloth (Mylodon), 167.
gryphus, Sarcorhamphus, 163.
guildingt, Chrysotis, 140.
Guinea-fowls (Numida mitrata), 94,
Oo.
Gulls (Larus dominicanus), 78, 167,
_ 190.
—— (L. franklint), 188.
Hawks (Astur franciscae), 95.
(Asturina natterert), 30.
—— (Milvago chimango), 179.
—— (Tinnunculus gracilis), 108.
Hawksbill (Chelone imbricata), 103.
Herons (Buteroides crawfordi), 111.
(Demiegretta sacra), 117, 217.
Hibiscus, 107, 110, 221.
hirundinacea, Sterna, 167.
Holothurians, 217.
hova, Mirafra, 94.
Huanacos (Llama huanacos), 163.
“ Huemule,” 181.
Hummingbirds, 27, 177.
hypoleucus, Totanus, 85.
Ibises, Abbott’s (Lbs abbott?), 119-
121,
sacred (Ibis cethiopica), 78.
Ice in Eyre Sound, 182.
Iee-plants, 72, 74.
Tle de Lise, 100, 104, 105.
243
imbricata, Chelone, 103.
Inaccessible Island, 63, 66.
incanus, Totanus, 217, 233.
incerta, Gistrelata, 64.
inflexirostris, Quiscalus, 141.
insularis, Gymnoscops, 128.
interpres, Strepsilas, 4.
Itaparica, 21-36,
jacana, Parra, 28, 33.
“* Kava,” 234, 235.
Kelp-weed, 66, 180, 184.
Kingfishers (Corythornis cristata), 85.
(Halcyon pealit), 228.
Kites (Milvus migrans), 84, 102.
koebreutert, Pertophthalmus, 91.
Larks (mirafra hova), 94.
latro, Birgus, 105.
Lauristinus, 52.
Lava-images on Easter
(illust.), 194.
Lemurs (Lemur mayottensis), 90.
lepturus, Phaethon, 15.
leucocapillus, Micranous, 5.
leucogaster, Sula, 3, 100.
leucoptera, Prosobonia, 217.
lindsayi, Terpsiphone, 86.
Lizards (Mabuia punctata), 20.
(Lygosoma cyanurum), 209,
2.
Island
22
Love-birds (Agapornis cana), 87, 97.
macrura, Hupetomena, 27.
maculipennis, Plutella, 213.
Madagascar, 93.
madagascariensis, Alectrenas, 97.
Bernieria, 97.
—— Foudia, 86, 96, 127.
—— Izxocincla, 89.
Zosterops, 97.
magellanica, Chloéphaga, 167, 178.
magellanicus, Mytilis, 172, 174, 180.
Spheniscus, 161.
—— Turdus, 172.
Magnolias, 131.
Mahé, 125-127.
Mango trees, 30, 32, 149.
Mangrove swamps, 85, 153.
Marie Louise Bay, 132.
Marmosets, 30.
Martin Vas, 58-62.
Martins (Tachycincta meyert), 166.
house (Chelidon urbica), 166.
Martinique, 139-143.
244
maynardi, Coccyzus, 148.
Mayotte (Comoro Islands), 84-92.
mayottensis, Cypselus, 87.
Lemur, 90.
Zosterops, 86.
melancholicus, Tyrannus, 32.
meyert, Tachycincta, 166.
Microlepidoptera, 222.
migrans, Milvus, 84, 102.
minor, Alectrenas, 122.
mitrata, Numida, 94, 99.
Mocking-birds (Mimus orpheus),149.
modesta, Hudromias, 172.
Zosterops, 128.
Molineux Sound, 178-181.
Monte Video, 157-160.
Mont Pelée, 141, 143.
Moorhen, flightless (Porphyriornis
nesiotis), 66.
moquini, Hematopus, 79
Mosquitoes: 16, 28, 29, 34; (Stego-
myta fasciata), 212, 222.
Moths, 51, 228; (feather-feeding),
6; catching, 29.
—— (Plutella maculipennis), 213.
—— Sphinx, 103, 227.
Mouse (Mus musculus), 18, 29, 55.
Mozambique Channel, 82-92.
Mullet, grey, 180.
Muscovy ducks, 224.
musculus, Mus, 18, 29.
Mussels (Mytilus magellanicus),
172, 174, 180.
(M. patagonicus), 180.
mydas, Chelone, 103.
Mylodon, 167.
Mynahs, Indian, 126, 127, 216.
** Narrows,” 184.
natierri, Asturina, 30.
neglectus, Phalacrocorax, 77.
nesiotis, Porphyriornis, 66.
niger, Centrites, 166, 167.
Nightingale Island, 63.
Nightjars, 30.
(Caprimulgus aldabrensis), 123.
(C. unwint), 83.
nigra, Coracopsis, 95.
nigriventris, Myzomela, 228, 233.
North Cousin (islet), 133, 134.
Orchids, 56, 145.
orpheus, Mimus, 148.
Otters (Lutra patachonica), 184.
Owls (Gymnoscops insularis), 128.
(Scops brasiliensis), 30.
VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
Oyster-catchers, black
topus moquint), 79.
(Hema-
Pago-Pago, 226, 228, 229.
Palm trees, 216, 220, 228.
pandanus, 115, 220, 233.
Papeete, 215.
Parroquets, 141, 228.
Parrots, 141, 233.
(Chrysotis caymanensis), 14%
—— (C. guildingi), 140.
—— (Coracopsis barkleyt), 128, 131.
—— (C. comorensis), 89.
—— (C. nigra), 95.
— (C. sibilans), 89.
(C. vasa), 95.
patachonica, Lutra, 184.
patachonicus, 171.
patagonicus, Cinclodes, 178.
Mytilus, 180.
pealti, Halcyon, 228.
pecuaria, Atgialitis, 79.
Pelicans, 190.
(Pelecanus thagus), 188.
pelzelni, Myiarchus, 32.
Pefias, Gulf of, 187.
Penguins, 72-76.
(Sphenicus demursis), 161.
—— (S. magellanicus), 161.
perdicaria, Nothoprocta, 203.
Petrels, 37, 38, 53, 70.
(Bstrelata arminjoniana), 60,
61, 157.
—— (@. incerta), 64.
— (G. trinitatis), 42.
—— (G. wilsont), 41, 42, 43, 60,
61.
—— (Ossifraga gigantca), 80, 158,
189
—— (Pelecanoides dacunhae), 67.
—— (P. garnoti), 160.
(P. urinatrixz), 160.
Phalaropes, grey, 188.
Pigeons (Alectrenas
ensis), 97.
—— (A. minor), 122.
—— (A. pulcherrima), 129.
-—— (A. sganzint), 86, 89.
—— (Columba squamosa), 1438.
(Didunculus strigirostris), 232.
piscator, Sula, 47, 102.
Pitcairn Island, 207-214.
Plover, golden, 203.
—— (Charadrius fulvus), 233.
—-— ringed (dfgialitis pecuaria).
79.
madagascart-
INDEX
poliocephala, Chloéphaga, 183.
Porpoises, 69, 162.
Port de France, 139.
Praslin Island, 130.
Puerto Bueno, 176.
pugnax, Machetes, 80.
punctata, Mabuia, 20.
Punta Arenas, 165-169.
Quail-snipe (Thinocorus rumi-
civorus), 167.
Rafts used in surf, 19.
Rails, 66, 102.
(Rallus abbott), 108.
(R. vigilantis), 177.
Rano Kao (crater), 198, 203.
“ Rat Island,” 18,
Rats (Mus ratius), 18, 29, 66, 111,
154, 203, 213.
Rheas (Rhea americana), 167.
Ribbon fish (Regalecus), 80.
ridibundus, Larus, 188.
ridleyana, Elainea, 18.
rubricauda, Phaethon, 210.
rufficollis, Pteropus, 228.
Rufis (Machetes pugnax), 80.
rumicivorus, Thinocorus, 167.
rustica, Hirundo, 80, 83.
sacra, Demiegretta, 117, 217.
Samoan Islands, 226-239.
Sanderlings, 118.
Sandpipers (Prosobonia leucoptera),
217.
—— (Totanus hypoleucus), 85.
(T. incanus), 217, 233.
scapulatus, Corvus, 102.
Screw-pines (pandanz), 115.
Sea-serpent (illust.), 22-26.
“* Sea-slugs,” 217.
Sea-urchins, 217.
Seychelle Islands, 125-135.
sganzint, Alectreenas, 88, 89.
Sharks, 6, 7, 10, 61, 99.
Shearwaters (Puffinus creatopus),
189.
—— (P. gravis), 64.
—— (P. griseus), 189.
—— white-breasted, 61.
Shrikes, drongo (Dicrurus aldabra-
nus), 117.
sibilans, Coracopsis, 89.
Siskins (Chrysomitris barbatus), 167.
Skuas (Megalestris chilensis), 162,
167.
245
Skuas, antarctic, 69, 70.
—— Richardson’s, 189.
Smythe’s Channel, 175-187.
Snipe (Gallinago delicata), 33.
jack, 33.
Society Islands, 215.
Soufriére (voleano), 140.
South Sea Islands, 191.
South Trinidad, 37-58.
spinicaudata, Oxyurus, 169.
St. Paul’s Rocks, 1-10.
St. Pierre, 139.
St. Vincent, 139.
Starlings (Quiscalus caymanensis),
151.
—— (Q. gundlachi),151.
(Q. inflexirostris), 141.
Steamer-ducks (Tachyeres cinereus),
163, 164, 170-173, 179.
Stelgidopteryx, 31.
Stints, little, 83.
stolidus, Anous, 4, 9, 40, 50, 60, 80,
100, 104, 111, 203, 216, 229.
Stonechats (Pratincola sybilla), 96.
Straits of Magellan, 162-174.
strigirostris, Didunculus, 232.
strigosus, Grapsus, 3.
Sucking fish, 99.
Sunbirds, 117, 131.
—— (Cinnyris abbottt), 111, 116.
—— (C. mahé), 127.
—— (Myzomela nigriventris), 228,
33.
superciliosus, Merops, 91.
Swallows (Stelgidopteryx), 31, 83.
(Hirundo rustica), 80, 83.
Swifts (Chaetura fumosa), 32.
—— (Collocalia), 216.
—— (Cypselus mayottensis), 87.
(Tachornis gracilis), 91.
sybilla, Pratincola, 96.
Table Bay, 70, 71.
Tahiti, 215-225.
Tanagers, 31.
“Tappa,” 229.
Tautira, 217, 222.
Teal (Nettion brasiliensis), 33.
Tenrecs (Centetes ecaudatus), 90, 98.
Terns (Anous stolidus), 4, 9, 40, 50,
60, 80, 100, 104, 203, 216, 229.
—— (Gygis alba), 14, 40, 51, 56,
203, 210, 212, 216.
—— (G. crawfordi), 44, 45.
—— (Micranous leucocapillus), 5
8, 61.
246
Terns (Sterna fuliginosa), 17, 60, 61,
104.
—— (S. hirundinacea), 167.
(S. vittata), 67, 70.
thagus, Pelecanus, 188.
Thrushes (Ixocincla madagascarien-
sis), 89.
(Nesochicla eremita), 65.
Carolina (Galeoscoptes
linensis), 149.
Magellan, 179.
Ticks, 6, 29, 34.
Tierra del Fuego, 176, 182.
Tinamou (Nothoprocta perdicaria),
203.
Toads (Nannophryne variegata), 177.
Tortoise, giant (Testudo elephantina),
115, 118, 123, 129.
toulou, Centropus, 96.
Tree-creepers (Oxyurus
data), 169.
Tree-ferns, 39, 55.
Trinidad, South, 37-58.
trinitatis, Gistrelata, 42.
Tristan da Cunha, 63-69.
Tropie (or Bo’sun) bird (Phaethon
lepturus), 15, 17.
red-tailed (P.
cauda), 210.
Turnstones (Strepsilas interpres), 4,
20.
caro-
spinicats-
rubri-
Turtles, 39, 106, 112.
(Chelone mydas, Linn.), 103.
Tutuila Island, 226-230.
Tyrant-bird (Centrites niger), 166.
unwint, Caprimulgus, 83.
Upolu Island, 231-239,
VOYAGES OF A NATURALIST
urbica, Chelidon, 166.
urinatriz, Pelecanoides, 160.
Valparaiso, 187-191.
variegata, Nannophryne, 177.
vasa, Coracopsis, 95.
vaughant, Tatare, 209.
vigilantis, Rallus, 177.
vitellina, Dendreca, 147.
vittata, Sterna, 67, 70.
Vultures (Cathartes aura), 30.
—— (C. atratus), 30.
Wagtails (Motacilla capensis), 80.
(M. flaviventris), 96.
Warblers (Bernieria madagascar-
tensis), 97.
(Dendreca auricapilla), 147.
—— (D. coronata), 147.
—— (D. crawfordt), 154.
—— (D. discolor), 147.
—— (D. vitellina), 147.
—— (Tatare vaughani), 209, 210.
—— (Vireo gracilirostris), 16.
Wasps at Tahiti, 216.
Weaver bird (Foudia madagascar-
iensis), 86, 89, 96, 127.
(Nesacanthis aldabranus), 116.
(N. eminentissima), 86.
Whimbrels, 83, 85.
White-eyes (Zosterops madagascar-
tensis), 97, 102.
(Z. mayottensis), 86.
(Z. modesta), 128.
wilsoni, Gistrelata, 41, 42, 43, 60.
Woodpeckers (Melanerpes cayman-
ensis), 149.