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CORNELL
UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY,
Cornell University Libra
Viti; an account of a government. mission
Cornell University
Library
The original of this book is in
the Cornell University Library.
There are no known copyright restrictions in
the United States on the use of the text.
http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028647026
A MISSION TO VITT.
VITI:
AN
ACCOUNT OF A GOVERNMENT MISSION
TO THE
VITIAN OR FIJIAN ISLANDS
IN THE YEARS 1860-61.
BY
BERTHOLD SEEMANN, Pa.D., F.LS., F.R.GS.,
AUTHOR OF THE NARRATIVE AND THE BOTANY OF H.M.S, HERALD,
‘POPULAR HISTORY OF PALMS,’ ETC, ETC.
WHith EMlustrations and a f#lap.
Cambridge :
MACMILLAN & CO.,
AND 23, HENRIETTA STREET, COVENT GARDEN, LONDON.
1862.
The right of translution is reserved by the Author,
JOHN EDWARD TAYLOR, PRINIER,
LITTLE QUEEN STREET, LINCOLN’S INN FIELDS.
TO
SIR RODERICK IMPEY MURCHISON,
D.C.L., LL.D., E.R.S.,
DIRECTOR OF THE GEOLOGICAL SURVEY,
ETC., ETC., ETC.,
WHOSE PRE-EMINENCE IN SCIENCE HAS ALWAYS
BEEN COUPLED WITH A GENEROUS ENCOURAGEMENT OF THE
LABROUKS OF OTHERS,
This Whork ig Dedicated
WITH FEELINGS OF HIGH REGARD AND ESTEEM
BY
THE AUTHOR.
PREFACE.
In 1859 Mr. W. T. Pritchard, H.B.M. Consul in Fiji,
son of the Rev. George Pritchard, formerly of Tahiti,
arrived in England with a document purporting to be
the cession of Fiji—or rather Viti—to the Queen of
Great Britain. The cession had been made by Cakobau
(= Thakombau), the principal chief of Bau and king
of the whole group, and with the consent of the lead-
ing chiefs. The importance of accepting the proffered
sovereignty was insisted upon by parties capable of
taking a comprehensive view of the question. The Le-
gislative Assembly of New South Wales, on the motion
of Mr. M‘Arthur, voted an address to the Queen in sup-
port of this proposal. Captain Towns, a patriotic citizen
of Sydney, fully impressed, like many of his country-
men, with the importance of acquiring the islands, ge-
nerously offered a cheque for the whole Fijian debt, in
order to remove at least one of the possible obstacles
in the way of the cession. Nor is it any secret that the
occupation of the islands has been recommended by
Captains Fremantle, Denham, Erskine, and Loring, and
Admirals Washington* and Sir Edward Belcher; in
* See Appendix.
vill PREFACE.
fact, by all naval men who knew anything about the
subject. Men high in office were equally favourably in-
clined towards the cession. However, before coming to
any definite decision, the Government determined to
obtain more ample information than was at hand, and
early in 1860 I was asked to join a “ Mission to Viti”
- dispatched for that purpose.
Whilst in Fiji, I was induced to write a series of
letters on the country, its people, and productions, to
the ‘ Atheneum,’ which that journal did me the honour
to publish, and which, whole or in part, found their
way into several other home and colonial papers, were
translated into German and French, and altogether ob-
tained a circulation for which their original place of
publication alone can account. On my return to Lon-
don I was urged to make additions to this series, and I
acceded to this wish by bringing the subject before the
Royal Geographical Society, and writing papers for the
‘Gardeners’ Chronicle’ and Galton’s well-known ‘Va-
cation Tourists and Notes of Travel.’ Buta good deal
of matter remained still unpublished, which, together
with the pith of all I have previously made known, will
be found in the following pages.
In order that the public may have the means of form-
ing a correct judgment on the Fijian question, I have
reprinted in the Appendix Colonel Smythe’s Official
Report, at variance as it is with all that has been
written on the islands. My impression of Fiji and its
inhabitants was most favourable, and I am convinced
that, under judicious management, the country would
PREFACE. ix
become a flourishing colony,—an opinion shared by
almost all who have visited the group, as was again
proved at a crowded meeting at the Geographical So-
ciety when the subject was discussed.
Desirous of collecting’ as many productions of the
country as possible, I neglected to investigate several
subjects which fell not within my assigned province. It
was only after the publication of Colonel Smythe’s ‘ Re-
port,’ that I became aware of the full importance of my
neglect. For instance, it would have been very important
to know how many thousand acres of land had passed
out of the hands of the natives. As a great many islands
and vast tracts of country have already been purchased
by British subjects, statistics on these points would pro-
bably have materially influenced the decision of Her
Majesty’s Government with respect to the acceptance of
the cession.
Amongst other things I brouglit home a comprehen-
sive collection of plants, which, together with those
already in this country, chiefly accumulated by Govern-
ment expeditions, furnish ample materials for a Flora
of Fiji, a Flora Vitiensis. I expended a good deal of
my own money in order to make these collections as
complete as possible, and was in hopes that the Govern-
ment would see fit to assist me in publishing such a
work, especially as my report on the resources and ve-
getable productions of the islands had been presented
to both Houses of Parliament by command of Her
Majesty, and the nature and possible value of the pro-
‘jected publication must have become evident. His
x PREFACE.
Grace the Duke of Newcastle, ever ready to advance
science, fully sharing these hopes, made an application
to the Treasury to that effect, but was ‘“‘very sorry to
inform me that his application had been unsuccessful.”
Thinking what had been collected with so much ex-
pense, under great difficulties, and in a country only
partially reclaimed from cannibalism, was also worth
making known, I resolved to incur the risk of publish-
ing the work at my own cost. It will consist of 400
pages of letter-press (quarto), and 100 coloured plates,
all representing objects hitherto unknown to science,
and drawn by the skilful pencil of Mr. Fitch. The
work will take about three years to bring out, and its
publication will commence immediately.
All the native names are spelt according to the sys-
tem of orthography laid down in Hazelwood’s ‘ Fijian
Dictionary’ (London: Triibner and Co.), and wherever
any deviation should be discovered, it may be regarded
as a mistake of mine, unless particularly noticed. No-
thing but endless confusion will be the result if every
nation is allowed to write Fijian names according to its
own orthography. For the illustrations of my present
work I am indebted to Mrs. Smythe, Dr. Macdonald,
and Captain Denham, to whom I beg to tender my best
thanks, as well as to those friends who, since my de-
parture from Fiji, have kept me supplied with the-
latest intelligence from that group.
BERTHOLD SEEMANN.
London, September 30, 1862.
CONTENTS.
SoS ge Se
CHAPTER I.
Page
Departure from England.—Arrival at Sydney.—Voyage to Fiji.—
The ‘John Wesley.—The Pitcairners at Norfolk Island.—First
Glimpse of Fiji—Lakeba.—The Tonguese.—Visit to a Mission
Station —First Botanical Excursion.— Hints to Collectors.—Native
Church.—Bark-cloth Manufacture.—Tomb of a Chief. ee ee
Life.—Departure from Lakeba , : . ‘ 1
CHAPTER II.
Island of Taviunii—The King of Cakaudrove.—Elephantiasis.—
Kind Offer of Mr. Waterhouse and Captain Wilson.—Somosomo,
its Advantages and Disadvantages—Queen Eleanor.—Ascent of
Summit of Taviuni—A Royal Escort——Sylvan Scene.—Arrival at
the Top.—Singular Swamp of Vegetable Turtle Fat.—Dinner.—
Timidity of the Natives.—Chief Golea’s Return from a Military
Expedition. Polygamy.—The Rotuma-Men.— Wairiki.— Arrival
of the ‘ Paul Jones’. ‘ ‘ é ‘ ‘ : . 19
CHAPTER III.
“Fiji as a Cotton-growing Country.—Cotton not Indigenous but Na-
turalized.—Native Names.—Number of Species.—Average Pro-
duce of the Wild Cotton.—Excellence of Fijian Cotton acknow-
ledged at Manchester.—Efforts of British Consul and Missionaries
to extend its Cultivation.—The First Thousand Pounds of Cotton
sent Home.—Establishment of a Plantation at Somosomo, Wakaya,
and Nukumoto.—Prospects of Cotton-growing in Fiji. 48
xli CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IV.
Departure from Somosomo.—Island of Wakaya.—The Balolo. —Ar-
rival at Levuka—H.B.M. Consul.—The Late Mr. Williams.—
Lado and its Origin.—Site for the New Capital—The ze of
Fiji.—Bau.—Causes of its Supremacy.— Viwa :
CHAPTER V.
The Wai Levu or Great River.—Canal Dug by Natives.—Matai-
suva.—Institution for Training Native Teachers.—Sacred Groves,
Trees, and Stones.—Mosquitoes.—Island of Naigani— Mr. Egger-
strém’s Kindness.—Feuds at Nadroga.—Nukubalawu.—Taguru.—
Navua River . ; . ‘ : é : ‘ A
CHAPTER VI.
Stay at Navua.—Chief Kuruduadua’s Household.—* Harry the Jew.”
—A Prince as he was Born.—Massacre Prevented.—Kuruduadua’s
Character.—Statement of Mr. Heekes Respecting the Namuka
Outrage.—Town and Bures of Navua.—Tatooing.—Return to Lado.
CHAPTER VII.
Arrival of Colonel Smythe from New Zealand—tThe ‘ Pegasus’ and
‘ Paul Jones.’—Visit to Bau.—Quarrelsome Disposition of the Chief
of the Fishermen.—Cession of Fiji to ne —First Official
Interview with the King. . :
CHAPTER VIII.
Excursions to Koroivau and Namara.—Departure from Bau.—Passage
through the Great River of Viti Leva Buretu.—Apostate Chris-
tians.—Rewa.—Arrival at Tavuki, Kadayuun—Whale Ships.—At-
tempt to ascend Buke Levu.—The Isthmus of Kadavu—Ga Loa
or Black Duck Bay.—Departure for Navua
Page
58
82
97
. 120
. 133
-rPere
CONTENTS, xiii
CHAPTER IX.
Page
Departure from Kadavu.—Arrival at Navua.—A Court of Justice.—
Starting for the Interior—The Navua River.—Its Fine Scenery.—
Rapids.—A Canoe upset.—Town of Nagadi—Hospitable Recep-
tion. — Soromato. — Kidnapping.— Family Prayers. — Heathen
Temple.—A Large Snake to be Cooked.—March across the Country.
—Vuniwaivutuku.—A Difficult Road.—A Purse Lost.—No Thieves.
—Arrival at Namosi—Danford’s Establishment.—His Usefulness
asa Pioneer . : ‘ 4 : ; : . 146
CHAPTER X."
Popular Ideas Respecting the Interior of Viti Levu.—Malachite and
Antimony.—Ascent of Voma Peak.—Visit to 1 Heathen Temple.
—* Spirit Fowls.”—Official Meeting with Kuruduadua and his
Subjects.—A Rebellion to be Suppressed.—Presentation of Food.
—“The Oldest Inhabitants.’—A Court-Fool and his Tricks.—Mr.
Waterhouse Preaching.—Departure of Colonel ei and Messrs.
Pritchard and Waterhouse, for Nadroga. ‘ ‘ - 160
CHAPTER XI.
Fijian Cannibalism.—The Great Cauldron.—Naulumatua and his Ap-
petite for Human Flesh.—Bokola.— Vegetables Eaten with Cannibal
Food.—The Ominous Taro.—Approximate Number of Bodies eaten
at Namosi.—Ovens for Baking Dead Men.—Suspension of the
Bones.—Not all Fijians Cannibals.—Efforts of the Liberal Party to
Suppress Anthropophagism.—Aided by Europeans.—Real Signifi-
cance of Eating Man only Partly Understood.—Concessions to Hu-
manity.—Abolition of Cannibalism throughout Kuruduadua’s Do-
minions . , ‘ ‘ 7 ‘ ‘ 5 . 178
CHAPTER XII.
Stay at Namosi Prolonged.—The Governor's Attention.—‘ Crown
Jewels.” —The Clerk of the Weather.—Sorcerers.—Fijian ay
Life.—Story-Tellers Popular —A Fijian Tale . : : . 186
Xiv CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XIII.
Departure from Namosi—Vuniwaivutuku.—The “ Veli.”—Mode of
Tatooing the Mouth.—Passing down the Navua River.—Nagadi
cleared out by its Vasu—Our Canoe Capsized.—Return to the
‘ Paul Jones.’—Kuruduadua’s Character.—Leaving Navua.—Bega.
—Mr. Storck’s Illness——Return to Kadavu.—Ascent of Buke
Levu.—Rewa.—Immigrants fron New Zealand—Mr. Moore’s
Powerful Sermon.—Arrival at Lado.—Office Drudgery .
CHAPTER XIV.
Voyage around Vanua Levu.—Departure from Lado.—East Coast of
Viti Levu.—Nananu Island.—The Fijian Mount Olympus.—Bua.—
Naicobocobo.—Nukubati.—Naduri.—Interview with the Chief.—
Discontent of his Subjects.—Béche-de-mer Trade.-—Mua i Udu and
its Superstitions —Na Ceva Bay.—Avzrival at Waikava.—Visit to
my Cotton Plantation.—Meeting at Waikava.—Departure
CHAPTER XV.
History of the Tongamen in Fiji—Their Physical Superiority over
the Fijians.—Their Arrogance.—Captain Croker’s Defeat.—Early
Intercourse between Tonga and Fiji—Increase of Tonguese Immi-
gration.—Chief Maafu.—King George of Tonga visits Fiji—Con-
quest of Kaba and Rabe.—Arrival of British Consul.—Cession of
Fiji—Maafu’s Attempted Conquest.—Ritova and Bete.—Maafu’s
Ambition Curbed.—Peace Restored.—Ritova Installed in his Estates.
—Tonguese Intrigues Renewed.—Bete’s Death.—Commodore Sey-
mour’s Visit.—Termination of the Wars between Fijians and
Tongans . : ‘
CHAPTER XVI.
General Remarks on the Aspect, Climate, Soil, and Vegetation of Fiji.
—Colonial Produce.—Staple Food.—Edible Roots.—Kitchen Vege-
tables.— Edible Fruits.—National Beverages.—Kava
Page
. 202
. 236
274
CONTENTS. Xv
CHAPTER XVII.
Page
Vegetable Poisons.—Medicinal Plants.—Scents and Perfumes.—Ma-
terials for Clothing.—Mats and Baskets.—Fibres used for Cordage.
—Timber.—Palms.—Ornamental Plants.—Miscellaneous . 332
CHAPTER XVIII.
Remarks on the Fauna of Fiji—Mammals.—Birds.—Fishes.—Rep-
tiles.—Mollusks.—Crustacea.—Insects.—Lower Animals : . 381
CHAPTER XIX.
Fijian Religion.—Degei, the Supreme God.—Inferior Deities.—Wor-
ship of Ancestors.—Idolized Objects.—Temples.—Creation and
Ultimate Destruction of the World.—A Great Flood.—Immor-
tality of the Soul. ci of Future Abode. a of
Superstition . : : é . 889
CHAPTER XX.
Historical Remarks on Fiji.—Discovery of the Islands.—Sandal-wood
Traders.—Early White Settlers —Missionaries.—Foreigners at
present Residing in the Group.—Departure from Fiji in the ‘ Stag-
hound.’—Terrific Storm off Lord Howe’s Island.—Arrival in eS)
ney.—Return to England.—Concelusion . F - 40-4
APPENDIX.
I.—Report of Admiral Washington, R.N. . : : ‘ : . 419
II.—Report of Colonel Smythe, R.A., to Colonial Office F . 421
IlI.—Systematic List of all the Fijian Plants at present known . 431
17|7 17/8
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VITI:
AN
ACCOUNT OF A GOVERNMENT MISSION TO THE
VITIAN OR FIJIAN ISLANDS.
CHAPTER I.
DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND.—ARRIVAL AT SYDNEY.—VOYAGE TO FIJI.—
THE ‘JOHN WESLEY.’—THE PITCAIRNERS AT NORFOLK ISLAND.—FIRST
GLIMPSE OF FIJI.—LAKEBA.—THE TONGUESE.—VISIT TO A MISSION
STATION.—FIRST BOTANICAL EXCURSION.—HINTS TO COLLECTORS.—NA-
TIVE CHURCH.—BARK-CLOTH MANUFACTURE.—TOMB OF A CHIEF.—MIS-
SIONARY LIFE.—DEPARTURE FROM LAKEBA.
Havine left Southampton on the 12th of February, 1860,
by the overland mail, and having touched at Mauritius,
King George’s Sound, and Melbourne, I arrived at Syd-
ney on the 16th of April, where I was to join Colonel
Smythe, R.A..—who had gone out by the previous mail,
—and proceed with him in her Majesty’s ship ‘ Cordelia,’
it was supposed, to Fiji. The first news heard was, that
a war had broken out in New Zealand, in consequence
of which all available naval force had been dispatched
to the scene of action. This altered our plans consider-
ably. Colonel Smythe, thinking that the outbreak of
native discontent would be only of short duration, and
é B
u
2 A MISSION TO VITI.
that after its termination he should still be able to ob-
tain a Government vessel for Fiji, resolved to proceed
by the mail steamer to New Zealand. He came on
board the ‘ Benares’ to communicate this resolution to
me, but I, having made an attempt to find him on
shore, was absent, and as his steamer left soon after the
English mail had been transferred, I did not meet with
him until three months afterwards.
Sir William Denison, to whom I had letters from the
home Government, advised me either to go to New
Zealand and wait there for an opportunity, or else di-
rect to Fiji, in the missionary vessel « John Wesley,’
about to sail that day. Wishing to economize my time
as much as possible, I preferred the latter. In com-
municating with the Rev. John Eggleston, General Se-
cretary of the Wesleyan Mission, that gentleman kindly
postponed the departure of their vessel a few days, in
order to afford me time for making the necessary pre-
parations for future explorations. He supplied me be-
sides with letters of introduction to residents in the
Fijian islands, books, and a list of articles used as barter,
all of which proved highly acceptable. In reply to Sir
William Denison’s asking for a passage for me and my
assistant, Mr. Jacob Storck, Mr. Eggleston cheerfully
granted a free passage to both of us, at the same time
reminding the Governor-General that the Wesleyans as
a body felt under obligations to the Government for so
frequently allowing their vessels to assist their mis-
sionaries in the Pacific Ocean, rendering them timely
aid, and supplying them with medicines, and bringing
them home when ill. With the assistance of Mr. Charles
FELLOW-VOYAGERS. 3
Moore, Director of the Botanic Gardens at Sydney, I
was enabled to complete all my arrangements without
loss of time. When embarking, I had accumulated a
whole cart-load of luggage, containing none save the
most necessary things, and surveyed by me with a heavy
heart when thinking of the difficulty of transporting
them from island to island. None save those who have
experienced it, can have any conception of travelling in
countries where no money is current, and all is paid for
in kind. How easy is moving about when one can
carry a whole year’s travelling expenses in the waistcoat
pocket! But think of people never doing a thing for
you unless you have counted out, or measured off, the
requisite number or amount of your stock in trade.
All being ready and the wind fair, I left Sydney Har-
bour on Friday, April 20, 1860, on board the ‘John
Wesley, Captain Birkenshaw. ‘There were, in all, six
passengers,—Captain Wilson, from Sydney, about to look
after his cocoa-nut oil establishment at Somosomo;
Mr. and Mrs. Harrison, a missionary and his wife, for
Fiji; Mr. Storck and myself, and a Fijian native teacher,
who had come to Sydney with the view of proceeding
to England, but who, after reaching New South Wales,
had become so home-sick, that he was obliged to return
to his native country. Though having been only a few
thousand miles, he would be regarded as a mighty tra-
veller on his return, and doubtless looked upon himself
as such. For, as the Italian would wish “to see Naples,
and die,” or the Spaniard declares that—
“ El que no ha vista Sevilla
No ha vista maravilla ’—
4 A MISSION TO VITI.
so the South-Sea Islanders would say, “ Let me behold
Sydney, and go home again.”
No one should speak ill of the bridge that carries bim
over, or look a gift-horse in the mouth; but I have been
so frequently asked about the ‘John Wesley,’ that I
may be exculpated when saying a few words about the
vessel as she appeared to me. The‘ John Wesley’ was
launched in 1846, having been built by Messrs. White
and Sons, of Cowes, and being paid for by charitable
contributions. I have read high eulogiums on her, but
anybody who has sailed in her will not be inclined
to endorse them. It has never been my misfortune
to be on board a vessel behaving worse than she did.
She is about thirty feet too short, and never ‘easy, let
the wind be ever so favourable and the sea as smooth
asa pond. Ina slight gale the pitching is awful;.and
the rolling terrific. We were often watching and won-
dering what would be her next move after all these
had been going on for awhile, when perhaps she would
shake her rudder so violently that one almost feared it
must come out. In consequence of her constant un-
easiness, the wear and tear in ropes and spars is con-
siderable, and the annual expenditure must be much
greater than might be expected from a vessel of her
size. Nearly every morning there was something gone,
and we used to chaff the captain about the superior be-
haviour of his craft; but he, like a true sailor, would
defend her through thick and thin. In rough weather
she had, besides, the bad quality of leaking; and, as
some of the cocoa-nut oil carried in her on a former
occasion had oozed out of the tanks and casks and
THE ‘JOHN WESLEY.’ 5
become rancid, the stench was quite overpowering.
It requires a peculiar constitution not to become sea-
sick on board, and this is perhaps the most serious in-
convenience that the missionaries and their families
suffer when going backwards and forwards in her to the
Colonies, or from island to island. When we left Syd-
ney Harbour, I observed several of our men in unfurl-
ing sails, sea-sick, a sight I never before beheld; and
My. and Mrs. Harrison were ill during nearly the whole
passage. Nor is she, with all these drawbacks, a fast or
a good sailer. We were twenty-three days from Sydney
to Fiji, a distance of 1,735 miles, and I believe that may
be considered a fair average passage. The crew was an
extremely mongrel set. There were men of all colours,
countries, and religions: black Africans, copper-coloured
Chilians, and white Englishmen; Heathens, Mahome-
tans, Roman Catholics, and Protestants. I expressed
my surprise that in a vessel belonging to a religious
society there should be so mixed a ship’s company ; but
the Captain thought it rather an advantage than other-
wise, offering, as it did, a field for missionary labours
during the voyage. Indeed, when not suffering from
sea-sickness, Mr. Harrison made some attempts in that
direction.
We endeavoured to make Norfolk Island, but could
not fetch it within about one hundred miles. I should
have liked to look at that charming spot, which, no
longer a convict station, as in days of yore, has lately
been given by the Government to the Pitcairners,—those
much-petted descendants of ‘ Bounty’ mutineers and Ta-
hitian women,—because their own little island began
6 A MISSION TO VITI.
to be too small for the growing community. The Pit-
cairners landed on the 8th of June, 1856, from the
‘Morayshire,’ a vessel belonging to Mr. Dunbar, of Lon-
don, commanded by Mr. Joseph Mathers, and under
the agency of Acting-Lieutenant G. W. Gregorie, of
her Majesty’s ship ‘Juno.’ They numbered in all 194
souls, one of whom died soon after landing; the rest
comprising 40 men, 47 women, 54 boys, and 52 girls.
Almost an entire week was employed in disembarking
all the seventy years’ gathering of chattels, including
almost every moveable article, even to the “ gun” and
“anvil” of the ‘Bounty. On landing they were
greeted individually by the commissariat officer and
Captain Denham, of her Majesty’s ship ‘ Herald, who
happened to be there, and then conducted to their com-
fortably-prepared quarters, until they should be able to
make their own selection from the commodious dwell-
ings erected for them. Dr. Macdonald instructed the
islanders essentially in the resources of the ample dis-
pensary at their use, whilst the artificers of the ‘ Herald’
imparted to them the uses of a variety of tools and
implements, comprising the wind and water mills; in-
deed, everything was done to make them comfortable.
The first provident step for future provision was taken
by planting their favourite sweet-potato, and, pending
harvest time, which they gave six months to come about,
the ‘ Herald’ left the newly-transferred community pro-
vided with 45,000 lbs. of biscuit, flour, maize, and rice,
with groceries in proportion, and abundance of milk at
their hands; whilst their live stock consisted of 1300
sheep, 430 cattle, 22 horses, 10 swine in sties, 16 do-
THE PITCAIRN ISLANDERS. 7
mestic fowls, and a quantity of wild pigs and fowls.
Even 16,000 lbs. of hay and 5000 of straw were left
them ; and, lest their first crop should be late or fall
short, a list of additional supplies was sent to the Go-
vernor-General.* According to all accounts the Pit-
cairners do not display themselves to advantage in their
new home, and most visitors are anything but pleased
with them. As might have been expected, the nume-
rous presents given and sent to them have had a bad
effect, making them accomplished beggars, who state
their case in such a way as will most readily induce the
hearer to give them some present or influence others
to do so. They are besides said to be an indolent set,
who, rather than fetch fuel from the woods, will burn.
the floors, doors, and window-frames of the fine buildings
erected by the convicts, and generously placed by Go-
vernment at their disposal. If report be true, Sir Wil-
liam Denison, on his visit to the island, gave them a
severe and well-deserved lecture on this head. Several
of them are said to have already returned to Pitcairn
Island, where they seem to have felt more comfortable,
though cramped for space, and a few are said to have
embarked in whaling operations. Let us hope that the
whole community, about which so much truth and fic-
tion has been written, may gradually be led to habits of
industry, and learn to rely more upon its own resources
than the charitable contributions of others.
On the 10th of May we got the trade wind, and on
Saturday the 12th, about eight o’clock in the morning,
caught the first glimpse of Fiji We had left Sydney
* See Captain Denham in ‘ Hydrographic Notice,’ n. 5.
8 A MISSION TO VITI.
on the 20th of April, and had thus been twenty-three
days on the passage, four of which we had strong gales
and were compelled to heave to. We bantered the
Captain a good deal about the long passage, and as-
cribed it all to his having left on a Friday, at the same
time accumulating instances where departures on that
unlucky day had been followed by as disastrous conse-
quences as when thirteen sit down to table. But he
thought it high time that such vestiges of superstition
should be rooted up, and said there was no more in
them than in the Flying Dutchman. On the following
day we were off Lakeba (Lakemba). It being Sunday,
Captain Birkenshaw would not give offence by sending
a boat on shore on the Sabbath. I suggested that we
might all go to church as soon as landed, but he main-
tained that it was as much as his place was worth to
entertain such an idea; so we had the mortification
of stopping another day on board, and sail backwards
and forwards between the islands of Lakeba and Olorua.
I enjoyed much the fine sight that thus was offered.
The sky was clear and bright, and a number of little
islands and islets were rising from the blue sea, the
waves breaking on thejr rocky shores, or forming curly
crests on the long reefs that encircle many of them.
They were all more or less elevated, and covered with
vegetation, here with patches of grass or brake and
other hard-leaved ferns, there with brushwood or larger
trees; the presence of countless screw-pines and irop-
wood (Casuarina) trees imparting to them their peculiar
Polynesian character. Well may it be said, that the
graceful waving iron-wood bears on its very face the
LANDING AT LAKEBA. 9
proof of its being at home in a country and in situations
continually agitated by the trade winds. Any other
tree would become stunted and unsightly under such
circumstances, whilst the iron-wood is rendered only
more graceful by them.
The next morning we endeavoured to effect a landing,
no easy task, as the sea was running rather high, and we
had to search amidst a heavy surf for a channel through
the reef encircling Lakeba, and on which Colonel
Smythe’s vessel, the ‘ Pegasus,’ struck, when paying a
visit a few months afterwards. I have often admired the
grandeur of the South Sea reef, when the water breaks
with all its force on that mighty fabric of coral and
volcanic rock ; and wondered why such a grand sight
has not as yet been immortalized by some great painter
in search of a fitting subject for his brush. It is cer-
tainly overpowering to sit down before Niagara, and
watch the mighty masses of water steadily pouring into
a gigantic basin. Impossible, one thinks, that such tuns
and tuns can be discharged without the supply becom-
ing exhausted. Nevertheless there is no abatement.
As the sun rises it shines upon the foaming mass, and
its last rays kiss the same spectacle. Like eternity, it is
endless; and our thoughts, taken captive as we gaze and
gaze on the massive volumes, are wandering towards
those realms whence no traveller has returned. The
sight ofa great South Sea reef is something equally grand,
but produces a rather different effect. Besides being
influenced by wind and tides, the surf assumes almost
every moment a different aspect. Now it is little more
than a long line of silent ripples, now it is lashed into
10 A MISSION TO VITI.
wild spray to great height, speaking in hollow roars, and
showing a variety of tints which the pen must ever de-
spair of depicting. So far from becoming absorbed in
thought at such a sight, as at the monotonous grandeur
of Niagara, one longs to stir, to push on, to become ac-
tive like the never-resting element.
Though we got a good wetting, and might have been
swamped had it not been for the skilful steering of our
mate, we landed in safety. As soon as the boat was
near shore fifty or sixty natives plunged into the water
to carry us on their backs to the beach, when we shook
hands with Mr. Fletcher, one of the Wesleyan mission-
aries stationed here. ‘The natives were nearly all fine
strapping fellows, some of them quite six feet high, and
all Fijian, with the exception of a couple of Tonguese
or Tonga men, inhabitants of a neighbouring group of
islands. One of the latter was Charles, the son of the
Tonguese chief, Maafu, a mighty man in Polynesian
annals, and the source of much trouble, both in Tonga
and Fiji. When most people read of “natives” they
imagine them to be types of unsightliness, if not down-
right ugliness; of many races, not Caucasian, that may
in some measure be true, but whoever goes to the
South Seas will have reason to change his opinion en-
tirely. Some of these islanders are really very hand-
some, both in figure and face; and all entitled to pro-
nounce an opinion on the subject have agreed that there
are few spots in the world where one sees so many hand-
some people together as in Tonga. I have never been
in Circassia, and can therefore not speak from personal
experience ; but, if what one reads be correct, Tonga may
THE TONGUESE. 11
fairly be classed with the Tyrol and Circassia, for its
male population. I do not include the females, because,
according to our taste, the women of Tonga, like those
of the Tyrol, are too masculine and robust to please our
conceptions of feminine beauty. When I looked at these
Tonguese, with their fine athletic body, symmetrical,
handsome faces, and rich dark hair, I could not refrain
from thinking what caricatures civilization has made us.
The gait of such a man is something to wonder at, and
sculptors would find him a fine subject for study. Here
they might obtain models almost approaching their
notions of ideal perfection, instead of copying, as they
now too often are compelled, the body of a life-guards-
man, the head of a footman, and the hands and feet of
some of higher-bred types.
Charles Maafu, I was informed, had been sent to
Lakeba by his father, as a punishment for several larks
the young rascal had been up to. I don’t wonder
there should have been a great deal of temptation in
his way, for, besides being the son of a powerful chief, a
lineal descendant of one of the royal houses of Tonga
(Finau), he was about eighteen years of age and ex-
tremely handsome. He wore only a few yards of cotton
cloth around his loins, and an ornament made of mother
of pearl. King George, of Tonga, had proposed to have
his own son and Charles educated at Sydney. The
offer was unfortunately declined by Maafu, and the young
man had thus learnt nothing except what he had been
able to pick up in the missionary schools of the islands.
Through a fine grove of cocoa-nut palms and bread-
fruit trees, Mr. Fletcher kindly conducted us to his
12 A MISSION TO VITI.
house, a commodious building, thatched with leaves,
surrounded by a fence and a broad boarded verandah,
the front of the house looking into a nice little flower-
garden, the back into the courtyard. The ladies gave
us a hearty welcome, no doubt being glad to look once
more upon white faces and hear accounts from home.
We had brought, besides provisions and stores for the
next year, batches of letters and newspapers; and those
who have been in out-of-the-way places, and obtained
after long intervals news from home, will be able to
enter into the joy that prevailed. After being cramped
on board a vessel for so many weeks, and tossed and
rocked about night and day, it was a rare pleasure to us
to sit down once more in a comfortable house on shore;
and comfortable the house certainly was. Though the
thermometer ranged more than 80° Fahrenheit, the thick
thatch kept off the scorching rays, and there was a fresh
current of trade-wind blowing through the rooms. It
was a pleasing sight to see everything so scrupulously
neat and clean, the beds and curtains as white as snow,
and everywhere the greatest order prevailing. There
were all the elements of future civilization, models ready
for imitation. The yard was well stocked with ducks
and fowls, pigs and goats, the garden replete with flowers,
roses in full bloom, but alas! with little scent, cotton
shrubs twelve feet high, and bearing leaves, flowers, and
fruit, in all stages of development. These missionary
stations are fulfilling all the objects of convents in their
best days. When all around was barbarism, strife, and
ignorance, they afforded a safe refuge to the weary tra-
veller,—as they still do in the East,—and cultivated
HINTS TO COLLECTORS. 13
science and religion at a time when scarcely any one
thought of them. When you have reached a convent in
the East, or a mission-station in the South Sea, you seem
to be nearer home. You feel that you are amongst
people whose sympathies incline into the same direction
as your own, the mode of living also beginning to tell
upon your animal spirits, and you fly to the library,
limited though it may be, to have an hour with the
great minds of civilization.
Our stay at Lakeba being restricted to a few hours, I
made all possible haste to collect specimens of the vege-
tation. Quite a troop of boys followed, carrying baskets
which they made in an incredibly short space of time,
out of the leaves of the cocoa-nut palm. Determined
to collect everything we could lay hands on, we accumu-
lated about fifty different species, forming quite a load
for our young attendants. The true secret of making
-comprehensive collections, whether of objects of any
kind or details of information, is to secure them if pos-
sible the first time on coming in contact with them.
One has it always in his power to reject what is worth-
less. To go on the principle that you may come toa
place where you can get them better, is an unsound one
to adopt, and one that often leads to mortification.
Not only do the eye and ear get accustomed to the
objects or facts of search, and the hand neglects to
secure them, because they no longer strike us as new,
but it often happens that they are extremely local, and
are never met with again. When I take up my abode
in a district, for the purpose of exploring it botanically
for instance, I begin by gathering the plants that grow
14 A MISSION TO VITI.
around my abode, instead of rushing at once to distant
parts, where no doubt fine treasures may be expected.
The first day I shall probably not get any plants save
the most common weeds, and most likely not venture
out of sight of head-quarters. But after I have collected
the objects with which under any circumstances I must
become familiar, and would most likely fancy I had in
my collection, because they were so common, I am able
on the second and third day to venture a good deal
further, and when at last I make more distant excursions,
Tam at least certain that in bringing home anything, I
am not carrying coals to Newcastle or owls to Athens.
The boys were quite indefatigable in assisting me to
collect, and telling me the different local names of the
plants. A great number of these names I was already
acquainted with, having learnt them from the Fijian
dictionary, and it did not take many weeks before I
was familiar with all the vernacular nomenclature of
the most generally diffused organized beings. ‘This feat
the natives could never comprehend. They thought it
strange that at a time when my whole knowledge of
Fijian amounted to little more than yes or no, and a
few sentences absolutely forced upon me, I should be
able to pronounce the names of almost anything they
held up to my admiring gaze. The Lakeban boys also
took us to a ravine, where some years ago Dr. Harvey,
of Trinity College, Dublin, had collected a fine fern
(Dipteris Horsfieldii, J. Smith), which has magnificent
fan-shaped leaves, when growing in favourable situa-
tions, from eight to ten feet high, and four feet across.
The plant is found in all parts of Fiji, New Caledonia,
a4¢
BARK-CLOTH MANUFACTURE. 15
and various other islands, and has never been intro-
duced into our gardens, where it would be a great orna-
ment, nor did any of my specimens survive being taken
out of their native soil.
Mr. Fletcher showed us over the town, famous as the
first spot in Fiji where Christianity was triumphant and
a printing-press established. The church, constructed
in native fashion, is a fine substantial building, capable
of holding about two hundred and fifty people. On the
open place before it was spread out one of the largest
pieces of native bark-cloth I have ever seen, being about
one hundred feet long and twenty feet wide. This was
the only cloth worn before the recent introduction of
cotton fabrics. Considering that it was manufactured
without the aid of any machinery, simply by peeling the
bark of the paper-mulberry, when the tree is scarcely
thicker than a little finger, and then soaking and beat-
ing the different pieces in such a way that they expand
and all join together in one large mass, the piece was
well deserving to be examined. But perhaps the most
curious fact is that not only did the Fijians, as indeed
most Polynesians, know how to make such cloth, but
they also printed it in many different colours and pat-
terns, probably exercising the art of printing ages be-
fore Guttenberg, Coster, or whoever else may lay claim
to its invention in Europe, were dreamt of. Was it of
endemic growth, or did the Fijians derive it in some
way from China, where it seems to have been practised
from time immemorial ?
Not far from the church was the tomb of a departed
chief, a series of slabs placed perpendicularly and forming
16 A MISSION TO VITI.
a square filled up by mould, over which a kind of shed
was erected. A dense grove of iron-wood trees, so much
reminding us, by their sombre aspect, of our pines, form
an appropriate accompaniment to the place. The wind
playing in the branches, caused a wailing melancholy
sound, fully impressing me with the idea that even the
savages who planted these trees must have had some
sparks of poetry in their composition. It is a strange
ethnological fact, that most nations surround the tombs
of those dear to them with trees belonging to the pine
tribe, or at least trees partaking, as the iron-wood does,
of their physiognomy. The Greeks and Turks think
the cypress a befitting expression of their grief; the
Chinese, the beautiful Cupressus funebris ; and the Ger-
mans and English, the arbor-vite and yew. All attempts
to convince people that a graveyard ought to have as
cheerful a look as such a drear lonely spot can ever be
expected to assume have in the long-run proved a failure.
Ivy-clad church walls, mossy tombstones, and sombre-
looking yews, are in better keeping with it than gay
flower-beds or bright tinsel.
The mission-station at Lakeba is close to a great
swamp, and cannot be very healthy. Many more salubri-
ous spots might doubtless be found, but the missionary,
in order to do the greatest amount of good, should live
amongst his flock, and avoid every kind of isolation.
He should mix with them as freely as he possibly can,
and, on the principle that example is better than precept,
exhibit as much of his daily family life as is compatible
with necessary privacy. From that point of view, the
place has been well chosen; but it is certainly a great
MISSIONARY LIFE. “17
deal to expect from an ill-paid missionary, to expatriate
himself, and take up his abode in such localities as these.
I felt the greatness of the sacrifice expected, on seeing
here the widow of a poor fellow who had died only a
short time before our arrival. Though the climate of
Fiji cannot be termed unhealthy, the Wesleyans have lost
a good number of their labourers in this field. In some
measure this calamity may be accounted for by their
having selected men physically unfit to embark in such
an enterprise. Excessive zeal should not be the only
qualification. To expect from the Great Giver and Pre-
server of life, that it would please Him to grant a body
constitutionally unqualified for the trying climate of the
tropics perfect health and long life, would be a miracle,
outside religious circles regarded as little short of im-
piety. Nor from an economical point of view would it
seem wise to go to the expense of sending out men,
whose lives, on their being transferred to the tropics,
would in all human probability not be worth five years’
purchase.
On departing, our kind friends loaded us with fresh
vegetables, yams, taro, and plantains, branches of Chi-
nese bananas, heaps of cocoa-nuts, lemons, eggs, and
bottles full of milk,—highly acceptable presents after
nearly a month at sea. Mrs. Harrison, who had been
sea-sick almost the whole voyage, seemed quite to re-
cover at the very sight of them, and the pleasure they
caused on board much reminded me of the foraging
parties we used to have amongst the Eskimos, Kam-
tchadales, and American Indians, in days gone by, when,
sick and tired of salt beef and pork, we would willingly
c
18 A MISSION TO VITI.
part with any article of barter we happened to have
about us, in order to obtain fresh provisions.
It was a fortunate forethought on the part of our
Lakeban friends to provide us in this way, for our
voyage to the next station, Wairiki, situated on the
north-western shores of Taviuni, was to be rather a long
-one, a misfortune which we did not fail to attribute to
our starting on a Friday, though the captain again pro-
tested. We soon made Vuna Point, the southern ex-
tremity of Taviuni, but there were so baffled by variable
winds and dead calms, that it was deemed prudent to
stand off and on, to keep clear of the reefs, which ren-
der the navigation of this, as well as most parts of the
Fijian group a matter of some caution. It was not until
Tuesday, the 22nd of May, more than a week after our
departure from Lakeba, that we entered the Strait of
Somosomo, and cast anchor off Wairiki, native town
and mission-station. In a general map of the world
the Viti group looks an insignificant speck, and one
might fancy that a boat would quickly pass from is-
land to island. But how one is deceived! The narrow
channels widen into broad seas, in which the largest
vessels, under proper guidance, have ample sea-room;
the little islands expand into small continents, inha-
bited by untold thousands of human beings, covered
with mountains often four thousand feet high, and
traversed by rivers that may be followed for days with-
out reaching their source.
19
CHAPTER II.
ISLAND OF TAVIUNI.—THE KING OF CAKAUDROVE.—ELEPHANTIASIS.—
KIND OFFER OF MR. WATERHOUSE AND CAPTAIN WILSON.—SOMOSOMO,
ITS ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES.—QUEEN ELEANOR.—ASCENT OF
SUMMIT OF TAVIUNI.—A ROYAL ESCORT.—SYLVAN SCENE.—ARRIVAL AT
THE TOP.—SINGULAR SWAMP OF VEGETABLE TURTLE FAT.—DINNER.—
TIMIDITY OF THE NATIVES.—CHIEF GOLEA’S RETURN FROM A MILI-
TARY EXPEDITION.—POLYGAMY.—THE ROTUMA-MEN.—WAIRIKI.—aARRI-
VAL OF THE ‘PAUL JONES.’
Tue island off which we were now anchored is properly
called Taviuni, erroneously Vuna by Wilkes and the
latest Admiralty charts. It is the third island in size
of the Vitian group, being about twenty-four miles long
and nine broad, running from south-west to north-east,
and being traversed by a chain of mountains about
two thousand feet high, the tops of which are nearly
always enveloped in clouds. Stately cocoa-nut palms
gird the beach, whilst the mountain-sides are covered
by dense forests full of fine timber, and abounding
in wild pigeons and the Kula, a species of paroquet
(Coriphilus solitarius, Latham), valued on account of
its scarlet feathers, by the Tonguese, and still more
by the Samoans, for ornamenting mats. Numerous
streams and mountain-torrents, fed principally by a lake
at the summit, descend in every direction and greatly
C 32
20 A MISSION TO VITI.
add to the beauty of the scenery. The northern shores
especially, forming in conjunction with the opposite
island of Vanua Levu the Straits of Somosomo, teem
with vegetation, and present a picture of extreme
fertility. The trees and bushes are very thick, and
everywhere overgrown by white, blue, and pink con-
volvulus and other creepers, often entwined in graceful
festoons. Here and there the eye descries cleared
patches of cultivation, or low brushwood, overtopped
by the feathery crowns of magnificent tree-ferns ; vil-
lages nestling among them. The air is laden with mois-
ture, and there is scarcely a day without a shower of
‘rain. The north-western side of the island being more-
over, from its geographical position, deprived of the
direct action of the trade wind, the temperature feels
warm when in other parts of the group it is compara-
tively cool. In consequence of this, few whites have
taken up their residence in Taviuni, and the mission-
aries were about removing to Waikava, on Vanua Levu,
nearly opposite Wairiki, where their houses would have
the benefit of the trade wind and the sea breezes. Not
mere fancy made them leave Wairiki. Their health
was giving way, and their poor children suffered severely
from a disease of the eyes. Besides, Taviuni is now
thinly inhabited in comparison to formerly. The towns
of Vuna, Somosomo, Weilangi, Wainikeli, and Bouma
have only a small population. From Wilkes’s descrip-
tion, for instance, I expected to find Somosomo, in 1840,
the capital of the island as well as the kingdom of
Cakaudrove, a large place, instead of a mere collection
of ten houses, with neither heathen temple, Christian
THE KING OF CAKAUDROVE. 21
church, nor respectable strangers’ house. The King of
Cakaudrove, whose official title is Tui Cakau, had re-
moved his court from Somosomo to Wairiki, and left
the government of Somosomo to his younger brother,
Golea.
Tui Cakau is a miserable-looking man, without any
chief-like attributes. He is below the middle height,
—in the eyes of Fijians, who entertain a great con-
tempt for little men, a serious blemish; suffering, be-
sides, from elephantiasis and cutaneous diseases, his
whole appearance is not prepossessing. Elephanti-
asis, incidentally mentioned, is one of the diseases
to which Fijians are subject, and a fearful sight it
certainly is, when the feet assume dimensions and
shapes that make them more like those of elephants
than human beings. The disease, however, is gene-
rally speaking, very local, and seems to be particu-
larly prevalent in low, damp valleys. I remember going
up a small river opposite the island of Naigani, where
almost every inhabitant was afflicted by this calamity.
Again, I have seen large bodies of natives, without no-
ticing a single case. I have not heard of any white
settlers having suffered from elephantiasis in Fiji, though
it is well known that the whites in Samoa, Tahiti, or
other Polynesian groups, are not free from this visita-
tion. No one knowing the cause of the disease, there
are of course many hypotheses respecting it. Every
white man has his own, and one pretty generally dif-
fused is, that it is brought on by drinking cocoa-nut milk.
Yet there was a European who, acting on this belief,
and scrupulously avoiding the tempting beverage, never-
22 A MISSION TO VITI.
theless became a victim, and had instantly to leave for
colder climes, the only known remedy for checking its
progress.
Mr. Joseph Waterhouse, the chairman of the Fijian
district of Wesleyan Mission, kindly asked me to take
up my residence at his house.during my stay in Taviuni;
but, as both himself and Mr. Carey, his coadjutor, were
about to proceed to the annual meeting of their brethren
in Bau, I declined the offer, and accepted instead that
of Captain Wilson, my fellow-voyager from Australia.
My. William Coxon, the captain’s nephew, and manager
of the cocoa-nut oil establishment which Captain Wil-
son and M. Jaubert, of Sydney, had a few years ago
planted at Somosomo, came in his boat to fetch us,
bringing with him several Rotuma natives, who had
been employed in the establishment, and were willing
to work their passage in the ‘John Wesley’ to Sydney,
thence to watch for a vessel to their island home.
The distance from Wairiki to Somosomo is only six
miles, and a fine breeze soon brought us there. The
water off the latter place is shallow, leaving a large flat
of rocks at ebb-tide. Captain Wilson warned me not
to expect any. but the roughest accommodation, as no
proper dwelling-house had as yet been erected. I was
quite contented with what I found ; two sheds, one con-
taining a hydraulic press for making oil, a large house
for drying the cocoa-nuts, which also served for dry-
ing my plants, and a small dwelling-house, all built in
native fashion, and thatched with the leaves of the
sugar-cane. A grove of stately cocoa-nut palms diffused
an agreeable shade over the place, and trees laden with
SOMOSOMO. 23
bread-fruit, lemons, and oranges were dotted about.
Almost immediately behind the house rose a small
hill of rich vegetable mould, covered with beautiful
tree-ferns, over which different kinds of convolvulus
—hblue, white and purple—were hanging in natural
garlands. Following the gravelly beach for about a
hundred yards on either side of the premises, one would
come to a mountain stream, splashing, foaming, and
murmuring in its rocky bed, and offering capital accom-
modation for bathing.* The ground, for some miles
distant gently rising, passes abruptly into steeper moun-
tains. There was little cleared land, though the soil
is fertile, and there being few paths the woods were diffi-
cult to penetrate.
Fortunately a person need not be on the look-out for
wild beasts,—there are none to molest him. Snakes,
about four feet long, and of a light-brown colour, fre-
quenting trees, especially cocoa-nut palms, to feed upon
the insects attracted by the flowers, are the only animals
that now and then startle him. Perhaps another source of
annoyance in this earthly paradise, are the myriads of
flies that follow one in the woods, and keep him con-
stantly employed; but as a set-off against this must be
put the good behaviour of the mosquitoes, which are
neither very numerous nor keep late hours, but leave
at dusk, and do not appear again till after breakfast.
Somosomo has, besides, the reputation of producing dy-
sentery, which the natives, in the belief that it was un-
* Here a spiny fresh-water shell I discovered abounds, called, in honour
of Mr. Consul Pritchard, Weritina Pritchardii, Dohr., by one of our
rising conchologists.
24 A MISSION TO VITI.
known before the visits of white men, term “the white
man’s disease.” However, none of us were attacked by
it during our stay, though we were constantly exposed
to sun and rain, and ultimately out of biscuit, which
served us for bread. The natives also believe dysentery
catching, and hence will carefully avoid contact with a
person suffering from that infliction. They will never
sit down on a seat or lie down on a mat one of these
invalids has occupied, and moreover often compel the
poor sufferers to retire into the depths of the forests until
they shall have recovered. Curiously enough, those Poly-
nesian islands free from dysentery, as, for instance, the
Samoan group, are visited by fever, and those free from
fever, as Fiji and others, are liable to dysentery.*
Chief Golea was absent on a fighting expedition to
Vanua Levu, but his wife Eleanor was at home, and
paid us a visit on our arrival, accompanied by two young
women, also wives of Golea. Eleanor is the niece of
Cakobau (= Thakombau), King of Fiji and Chief of
Bau. She is much higher in rank than her husband,
who is only a younger son of a king under the suze-
yainty of her uncle. Bau has always understood how to
* The early. stages of dysentery are easily checked by eating basinfuls
of the native arrowroot (Zacca pinnatifida and sativa) so plentiful about
Fiji, especially on the sandy beaches, and by avoiding bananas and plan-
tains, whieh I quite agree with Rumphius and Forster in considering as
helping to bring on this disease. The arrowroot should be made so thick
that a spoon will stand upright in it, and taken with a little nutmeg, and
if possible white sugar. I found no arrowroot to be so effective as that of
the South Sea, and when, after my return from Fiji, I had a serious
attack of dysentery in London, and was unable to get my favourite remedy,
no shop having it genuine, I had an illness of several months, which nearly
proved fatal.
FONDNESS OF NATIVES FOR BOOKS. 25
guard against the centrifugal tendency of Fiji and pre-
serve its political superiority; and giving Bauan women
of rank to petty chiefs has been one of the means em-
ployed. A queen thus married would still hold the
same position she did before marriage, and her sons
would, as “ vasus,” have great privileges at Bau, and be
identified with her prosperity. Eleanor was a tall, fine-
looking woman, of much lighter colour than the gene-
rality of her countrywomen, a cheerful countenance,
and possessed of dignity and self-possession. Consider-
ing the scantiness of her dress, this is saying very
much in her praise. Though her husband and most of
his other wives were still heathens, she was a Christian,
and I believe a sincere one, judging from the almost
frantic manner in which she endeavoured to obtain a
Fijian Bible seen in my possession. She exhausted
every argument to get it, and her joy was indescribable
when her wishes were acceded to. It was much in-
creased by the volume being the Viwa edition, which
is preferred to the London, not only because it is a
larger book and printed in the islands, but also be-
cause in the recent London edition some changes have
been introduced of which the natives do not approve.
The Fijians are fond of books, especially large ones,
even if written in languages not understood by them.
Some of the whites maintain that this is simply be-
cause they use them as cartridge paper, but I do not
believe this to be generally the case. I had several
good offers for Endlicher’s ‘Genera Plantarum,’ and
other large well-bound volumes, though never any for
the bales of botanical drying-paper I carried about with
26 A MISSION TO VITI.
me. Eleanor, notwithstanding her high rank, did not
seem to exempt herself from any of the duties devolving
upon Fijian women. I often saw her go fishing on the
reef, and being up to her waist in water. One night,
when all was silent, and we were sitting in the house
reading and writing, we heard her call loudly for help,
and on rushing down to the beach, we found that she
and two other women had caught a large turtle in their
net, and were holding on to the splashing animal with
all their might, until assistance could be obtained.
On the 30th of May, we ascended for the first time
the summit of Somosomo; Captain Wilson, Mr. Coxon,
and several men kindly sent from the mission at Wairiki,
accompanied us, carrying baskets, for making collec-
tions. The Queen of Somosomo, hearing of our inten-
tion, joined the expedition with her whole court. At
daybreak we found her train waiting for us, on the
banks of a river, all fully equipped for the occasion.
A few strokes of the pen will describe their dress. The
Queen wore two yards of white calico around her loins,
fern-leaves around her head, the purple blossom of the
Chinese rose in a hole pierced through one of her ears,
and a bracelet made of a shell. No other garment
graced her stately person, and yet she looked truly ma-
jestic. Her attendants dispensed with the calico alto-
gether, and were simply attired in portions of banana
and cocoa-nut leaves fresh from the bush, which was so
far convenient to them as they were ordered to push
ahead, make a road, and shake the dew and rain from
the branches obstructing the way. In our European
clothes, we stood no chance in keeping up with them.
A SYLVAN SCENE. 27
They were always a long ‘distance ahead, waiting for
our coming up, and enjoying themselves in opening
cocoa-nuts, and smoking cigarettes, made with dry ba-
nana, leaves instead of paper.
The ascent was rather steep, and Mr. Storck had the
misfortune to hurt himself rather seriously from falling
down a considerable precipice, just when in the act of
gathering some botanical specimens. The road was very
bad, the forest being so thick that no glimpse of the
sun could fall upon a soil saturated with excessive mois-
ture. Large trees and abundant underwood of small
palms and tree-ferns produced a solemn gloom, and
made us long for a look at the sky. Wild pigeons of
a brown colour, and in very good condition for eating,
there abounded, and a number were brought down by
our guns. As we were pushing on, collecting all that
came in our way, and now jumping over rivulets, now
climbing over rocks, we suddenly arrived at an open
space, exhibiting a beautiful view of the whole Straits
of Somosomo. The eye passing over a dense belt of
forest, espied the islands of Rabi, Kioa, and Vanua Levu,
the reefs showing very plainly by the surf breaking upon
them, whitish fleeting clouds occasionally passing be-
tween us and this fine panorama.
The women had kindled a fire, and thought it a good
place to take refreshment. The Queen was seated on
the top of a rock, the maids of honour grouped
around her. It was a pretty sight. The dark beauties,
the really artistic effect of their ornamental leaves
and flowers, the easy grace of their movements, made
them look like so many nymphs that one reads of in
28 A MISSION TO VITI.
classic story, but never seems to meet with nowadays.
As we were taking our luncheon, the Queen asked nu-
merous questions about our system of monogamy. For
her part, she could never bring herself really to esteem
a man contented with one wife, and she was glad her
husband was a polygamist. Of course we tried to con-
vince her of our way of looking upon the subject, but,
having fairly refuted our assumption that women do not
like to see their husband's affection distributed over a
whole harem, she almost got the best of the argument.
After another hour's scramble we reached the summit,
and found it to all appearance a large extinct crater
filled with water, and on the north-eastern part covered
with a vegetable mass, so much resembling in colour
and appearance the green fat of the turtle, as to have
given rise to the popular belief that the fat of all the
turtles eaten in Fiji is transported hither by superna-
tural agency, which is the reason why on the morning
after a turtle-feast the natives always feel very hungry.
This jelly-like mass is several feet thick, and entirely
composed of some microscopic cryptogams, which, from
specimens I submitted to the Rev. M. J. Berkeley,
a weighty authority in these matters, proved to be
Hoomospora transversalis of Brebisson, and the repre-
sentative of quite a new genus, named Hoomonema
Jluitans, Berkl. A tall species of sedge was growing
among them, and gave some degree of consistency to
the singular body. We were not aware until it was too
late that these strange productions were only floating
on the top of the lake and forming a kind of crust, or
else we should not have ventured upon it. On the con-
DINNER AT A LAKE. 29
trary, we took it to be part of a swamp, that might
safely be crossed, though not without difficulty, for we
were always up to our knees, often to our hips, in this
jelly. All this caused a great deal of merriment. A
little hunchback, who carried a basket swinging on a
stick, looked most ludicrous in his endeavours to keep
pace with us. Now and then, when one or the other
was trying to save himself from sinking into inextricable
positions, he had to crawl like a reptile, and the others
were not slow to laugh at his expense. The first symp-
toms of danger were several large fissures which oc-
curred in the crust we were wading through. The
water in them was perfectly clear, and a line of many
yards let down reached no bottom. These fissures be-
came more and more numerous as we advanced, until
the vegetable mass abruptly terminated in a lake of
limpid water full of eels. The border was rather more
solid than the mass left behind, and all sat down to
rest, from the great exertion it had required to drag
ourselves for more than a mile and a half through one
of the worst swamps I ever crossed. As it was getting
quite a fashionable hour for dinner, and our appetite
was becoming more keen every minute, we determined
not to postpone it any longer; cold yams, taros, and
fowls, washed down with a bottle of Australian wine
mixed with water from the lake, constituted our meal.
The sides of the lake were covered with scarlet myr-
tles and a fine feathery palm (Kentia exorrhiza, Herm.
Wendl.) closely allied to those of New Zealand and Nor-
folk Island, but different. There were, besides, many
other plants, too numerous to be enumerated here, that
30 A MISSION TO VITI.
yielded a rich harvest. I should have liked to tarry
much longer than I did, but the natives became de-
sirous of returning, and as the sun was gradually de-
clining, there was no retaining them. Our company
dwindled down to a few faithful attendants, and even
these were speedily reduced to one, Ambrose, a native
teacher, and a man deservedly valued by the mission-
aries. Having to be in the forest late in the evening
is to the Fijians something terrible. They see ghosts
and evil-intentioned spirits start up in every direction,
and to escape falling victims to their anger, they yell
and shout at the top of their voice, like children when
left in the dark at night. We regained Somosomo,
dreadfully tired.and covered all over with mud, but well
satisfied with our day’s excursion, and it was not long
before we were in bed, under two blankets, which in
June and July are never found too warm in Fiji.
On the 31st of May, Golea, the chief of Somosomo,
returned from his fighting expedition. It was a fine
scene; six war-canoes with their large triangular sails
skimming before the wind, the warriors on board, dan-
cing, shouting, singing, and sounding the conch-shell.
Eleanor, accompanied by the whole seraglio of the chief,
hastened to the beach, in order to welcome their lord
and master by clapping of hands, dancing, and sing-
ing. There being no men at home, the little hunchback
of Golea’s establishment came breathless to our place,
begging Mr. Coxon to pull the trigger of a pop-gun
which was to be fired the moment his highness stepped
on shore, but which no one had the courage to touch.
Golea, soon after landing, paid us a visit. He was a
EASY VICTORY. 31
fine man, about twenty years of age, and more than six
feet high, with intelligent features, and as melodious a
voice as I ever heard. Like most of his fighting-men,
his face was blacked with charcoal obtained from the
Qumu-tree (Acacia Richei, A. Gray). Over his luxuriant
head of hair he wore the sala, made of a very fine piece
of white native cloth, and looking somewhat like a
turban. Around his loins he wore a narrow strip of
bark-cloth, done up in the T-bandage fashion. Arms
and legs were decorated with bands made of the bleached
leaves of the Voivoi, a species of screw-pine; whilst a
boar’s tooth, nearly circular, was suspended around his
neck. Golea, flushed with victory, gave us a rather
circumstantial account of his recent exploits, the first
I believe he had ever been engaged in on his own ac-
count, and, being a young man, he made the most of
them. His object had been to punish some district of
Vanua Levu for having, three years ago, killed his bro-
ther. He had taken nine towns, which he assured us
had been a great achievement. Soon afterwards we
heard another version of the affair, according to which
the inhabitants, not appreciating the idea of being
clubbed, had adopted the maxim of running away in
order to live to fight another day. This fully accounted
for only two killed, one an old woman, the other a child ;
and malice, as venomous in Fiji as elsewhere, added that
even these two had only been knocked down and would
probably recover. We may rejoice that no more serious
calamities attended Golea’s expeditions, which may be
said to have closed a long line of murders. Golea’s
father, Tui Kilakila, in February 1854, was murdered,
32 A MISSION TO VITI.
by the hands of, or, as some assert, at the instigation of,
his own son, who then succeeded him to the throne of
Cakaudrove. A second brother, to avenge his father’s
foul murder, committed fratricide, and was in his turn
assassinated by the people whom Golea had just re-
turned from punishing.
Golea, on my asking him when he would follow his
eldest brother in embracing Christianity, replied that
his religion was fighting, and that he did not as yet
think of becoming a disciple of the new faith. One of
his great objections seemed to be its allowing him only
one wife, whilst now he had an extensive harem, to
which he continually made new additions. The Wes-
leyans have invariably refused to admit as members of
their society, any professed native Christians who would
not give up polygamy. Of course, among Protestants,
any sect is at perfect liberty to adhere to whatever rules
and regulations it may think fit to impose upon itself,
and no words should be lost upon the discussion of it
by laymen. But when taking a common-sense view of
the case, whether polygamists on becoming Christians
should put all save one wife away, it assumes a differ-
ent aspect, which the Bishop of Natal has done good
service in ventilating. To say that discarded wives of
a polygamist may find husbands argues nothing ; so may
fallen women of our own country. According to the ler
loci, the wives enjoy a legitimate existence before the
general adoption of Christianity. By declaring them il-
legitimate, a serious wrong is inflicted upon them. And
why do evil that good may come? These women, sud-
denly deprived of the consciousness that they are legiti-
POLYGAMY. 33
mate and respectable, and, without their fault, becom-
ing illegitimate and outcasts, are driven from a home
to which they are bound by many ties. Had less ob-
jection been offered to polygamy, far greater progress
might have been made in christianizing Polynesia
and many other parts of the world, where a man is esti-
mated in a great measure by the number of his wives,
and it becomes a serious thing to ask him to lower
himself in public estimation by putting away all his
wives save one. Had or were the broad principle
admitted, that a man might remain a_ polygamist
on becoming Christian, but not add to his number,
many would have been induced to join the Christian
community who, under present circumstances, hung back
as long as they possibly could. The whole question
has often presented itself; and, in the earlier stages
of Christianity, the Church distinctly proclaimed the
necessity of admitting polygamists. Of course, as all
males born of the newly-converted would at once be-
come Christians, and only be allowed to have one
wife, polygamy would die out altogether in one gene-
ration. I am persuaded that this is the nght view
to take of the subject, whatever some theologians may
argue to the contrary. When at Bau, the subject of suc-
cession to the throne was discussed, and the missionaries
were for seeing it descend upon Cakobau’s youngest
son, because he was the son of his Christian wife, a boy
of very tender age; and to fix the stigma of bastardy
upon his eldest son, the child of the highest woman of
his household, and to whom the king was not married
by Christian ritual, yet legitimately united according to
D
34 A MISSION TO VITI.
Fijian customs. Were the case tried before any com-
petent tribunal, no doubt it would be given in favour of
the eldest son,—a fine manly fellow, who would well de-
serve the honour he was to be deprived of.
Golea asked for grog,—which the natives term “ Ya-
gona ni papalagi,” or foreign Kava,—but was told that
there was none in the house. He then begged to be
supplied with a cup of tea, which was cheerfully given.
Some of the Fijians are gradually acquiring a taste for
intoxicating drinks, as most other Polynesians have done,
and there is not a more painful task than to be obliged
to refuse supplying them. However, I do not think
that the dark-coloured races of Polynesia, including
amongst others the Fijians and New Caledonians, have
that intense longing for spirits characteristic of the
Hawaiians, Samoans, Tonguese, and other light-coloured
races, who are great slaves to it, notwithstanding all
that is done to check a habit which helps so mate-
rially to decimate them. Yet, whether this difference
is merely owing to the fact that the former have not
had such unrestricted intercourse with the whites as
the latter, or whether sobriety is to them a virtue as
easy to exercise as it is to the Spaniards and Italians in
comparison to the Teutonic nations, the future alone
will show. The lower class of whites are setting them a
bad example, and one has often reason to blush for his
own race. Whilst I was in the islands the first grog-
shops were opened at Levuka, and several others have
since been established in Bau, and other parts of the
group. What has always surprised me is, that con-
sidering the Fijian to be a tropical climate, most of
ROTUMA MEN. 35
these great drunkards enjoy such a long life. They
boast—whether it be true I had no means of testing—
that they are often intoxicated two months at a time.
One of the oldest white settlers always bought a large
cask of spirits whenever he had the chance, and, as he
did not know when he should have another, he took the
daily precaution to fill up the cask with as much water
as he had drunk spirits.
On the Ist of June, one of the Rotuma men, work-
ing in the establishment, died. His countrymen seemed
to feel his loss very much, as he had been a petty
chief among them, and they proceeded to bury him
in their own fashion. The body was wrapped up in
cloth, and a mound raised about two feet above the
ground, large stones being placed all around, and the
inside filled up with gravel from the beach. Rotuma
is a small island three hundred miles north of this
group, and belonging to the Fijian Consulate. Some
years ago, the Wesleyans endeayoured to establish a
permanent mission there, but, although succeeding in
making a few converts, they were forced to abandon
the field. The ruling chief, described as a fine young
fellow, having made a voyage to Sydney, where he
was well received,—even, if report be true, at Govern-
ment House,—had been persuaded by some whites and
a New Zealander, who gained influence over him, that
if he wished to preserve the independence of his coun-
try he must not admit missionaries, as they proved in-
variably the harbingers of national annihilation. The
Wesleyans therefore received intimation to withdraw
their Tongan teachers, and the few native converts re-
D2
36 A MISSION TO VITI.
turned to their former religion, the principal features
of which seem to be a belief in a Supreme Being, and
the worship of ancestors. The French have been more
successful in the neighbouring island of Fotuna, where
the Roman Catholic priests established a flourishing
mission. .
The Rotuma men can nearly all speak a little En-
glish; they are a good-looking people, with as light a
skin as the Tonguese, rich black, often curly, hair, worn
very long, and regular, frequently Jewish, features. The
latter peculiarity has been remarked by all who have
visited Rotuma, and amongst the men working on the
Somosomo estate there was one who bore the nickname
of ‘“ Moses,” in consequence of his undeniable resem-
blance to an unadulterated Hebrew. They circumcise,
tattoo around the loins, and perforate the left ear, into
which they put a gay flower, or the rolled up leaf of
the Dracena terminalis. The Rotuma men are a hard-
working set, and, if Fiji should become a European
colony, their island will be likely to supply a good
number of useful hands. I have seen them pull an oar
all day long under a broiling tropical sun, or work away
at the mill and oil-presses, without ever losing their
good temper or complaining. True, in Somosomo they
were well fed, and had as much as they liked to eat of
yam, pork, or fish. Hardly a day elapsed without a pig
being clubbed for their especial benefit. One of them
invariably attended to the cooking, not only for the men
but also for us. He gloried in the name of Koytoo, and
was the youngest and _ best-looking of the lot, with rich
curly hair, and a figure as symmetrically formed as a
OUR COMMISSARIAT DEPARTMENT. 37
sculptor could desire to copy. Two yards of blue striped
calico was his simple garb. When I first took up my
abode under Captain Wilson’s hospitable roof, Koytoo
could not even be termed a plain cook. He excelled
in boiling and roasting yam, and in frying pork in the
European fashion, but beyond that his acquirements did
not extend. It was I who gave him the benefit of the
culinary experience gained during my long travels, by ini-
tiating him into the mysteries of making coffee, tea, pan-
cakes (without eggs), fritters, chicken and turtle soup.
For a yard of calico the Queen would sell us six fowls in
the bush; but here we found how true was the old pro-
verb, “A bird in the hand is worth two in the bush.” As
will be explained in another place, the Fijian fowls are
far from being domesticated; they are to all intents and
purposes wild. Now and then they show themselves
near the dwellings, to pick up the offal, but as soon as
any one makes an attempt to catch them they are off,
and the only expedient to get them is by shooting. In
the tropics, to eat day after day pork and yam, the
usual food of Fiji, is not very tempting, and we there-
fore endeavoured to introduce some diversity into our
mode of living, by obtaining as many fowls as we could.
Often and often did Messrs. Storck and Coxon leave
their, I cannot say soft, couch at dawn to have a crack
at them; but the birds were so cunning that no sooner
did they creep near the place whence the crowing pro-
ceeded, than they were silent or had decamped. Eggs
were but seldom seen. The Fijians consider it babyish
to eat them, and cannot be induced to look for them.
The turtle-flesh was always sent to us as a present, either.
38 A MISSION TO VITI.
from the chief or his head wife, and after I had in-
structed Koytoo into the mysteries of concocting it into
soup, with which neither he nor the Fijians were pre-
viously acquainted, the chief would never fail to appear
at the very moment the soup was put on our table. In
fact there were always boys of his loitering about the
kitchen, eagerly watching the moment that it was
ready, and then running as fast as they could to inform
their chief of the important event.
Koytoo was an expert climber, and thought nothing
of ascending a tree to collect some specimens of flower
or fruit for me. We often made excursions together,
and I have frequently admired the way in which he
would walk up the smooth trunk of a tall cocoa-nut
palm, in order to knock down a few fruits for refreshing
ourselves. Without closely embracing the tree, as we
are wont to do in climbing, he actually walked up, his
feet and hands just touching the trunk, and his body
being far off. He was scarcely seated on the leaves
forming the feathery crown of the palm, when down
came a number of nuts, all of which he had carefully
tapped with his fingers to ascertain by the sound
whether they had arrived at that stage of maturity
which I preferred for drinking; for there is a great
difference in the taste of the cocoa-nut as it advances
towards maturity, and for every one of these stages
the natives have a distinct term. What is yet still
more remarkable, they at once know the stage by
merely tapping at the nut with their fingers. As the
transition from one stage to another, from insipid to
sweet, and very slightly acid, is brought about in a day
ra)
KOROVONO AND ITS FORESTS. 39
or so, it requires a well-trained ear to detect the diffe-
rence, and, though trying very hard, I never could mas-
ter it. No sooner were the nuts down than Koytoo stood
again on terra firma, cutting a stick about three feet
long and one inch thick, which he placed obliquely in
the ground, and used for shelling the nuts. Thus di-
vested of their thick outer fibrous covering, the hard
shell of one nut was used as a hammer for knocking a
hole in the other, and so nicely was this done, that the
hole was hardly larger than a shilling, and scarcely a
drop of the milk was spilt. We used to empty a great
number of nuts in this state without ever experiencing
any bad effects. We who wear clothes ought to have
a steady hand, for should any of the milk be spilt, it
will, on running over the few remaining fibres of the
husk, become astringent, and produce an indelible stain
in linen and cotton, having exactly the appearance of
iron-mould.
On the 4th of June, I paid a visit to Korovono, on
Vanua Levu, Mrs. Waterhouse obligingly lending me
the mission boat and crew to take me across the Straits
of Somosomo. My object was to examine the Kowrie
pines and wild nutmegs of that place. We left Somo-
somo early in the morning, and reached our destination
at three o’clock in the afternoon. Jetro, an old Manila
man, who had come to Fiji years ago, and spoke Spanish
with some difficulty, met us on the beach, and conducted
us to a fine grove of Kowrie pines (Dammara Vitiensis,
Seem.) shortly to fall a prey to the axe. European
sawyers had already cut down a number of the best
trees, yet some good specimens were still standing, and
40 A MISSION TO VITI.
I took exact measurements of them. They were from
eighty to a hundred feet high, and, four feet above the
base; the largest was eighteen feet in circumference!
The Fijian Kowrie, or Dakua, as the natives term it,
does not form entire forests by itself, ike some of our
pines, but grows intermingled with other trees, in Koro-
vono with myrtles and wild nutmegs. These nutmegs
are also stately trees, with fine oblong leaves; and their
produce, though it will never be able to enter into com-
petition with the cultivated nutmeg of the East Indies,
is sufficiently aromatic to be employed for home
consumption. One of the men climbed up the highest
Kowrie pines by means of a creeper, that hung like a
rope from the uppermost branches, and he threw down
a good supply of fruit, and also a snake five feet long,
which had taken up its abode there.
On returning to the beach we kindled a fire to make
a cup of tea, and the natives brought us plenty of
cocoa-nuts and bananas. Our camp was pitched under
a couple of magnificent Dilo trees (Calophyllum ino-
phyllum, Linn.) the thick, glossy, green foliage of which
was set off to advantage by the numerous white blos-
soms with which the tree was crowded. ‘The branches,
densely covered with ferns and orchids, were quite over-
hanging the water; indeed all the beaches of the
Strait of Somosomo are characterized by this pecu-
liarity. The vegetation, instead of receding from the
sea, as in most parts of the group, is quite bent over
the briny fluid. We had intended to stop for the night
at Korovono, but at dusk the mosquitoes began to be
very troublesome, and, as we had omitted to bring cur-
DIFFICULTIES OF ASCERTAINING THE TRUTH. 41
tains for our protection, sleep would have been out
of the question. A council of war being held, it was
thought preferable, notwithstanding the wind being
dead against us, to beat out of the bay and pull the
rest of the way. Leaving without further delay, we
passed, about midnight, Kioa, or Owen Island, as it is
sometimes called, from having become the property of
Mr. Owen, an enterprising Australian gentleman, who
endeavoured to form a settlement on it. Mr. Owen
was for some time a member of the Victorian Legisla-
ture, at Melbourne, where he was often alluded to as
“Member for Fiji.” Though taking advantage of every
slight breeze, we had to be at sea all night and did not
reach Somosomo until six o'clock the next morning,-
and were heartily glad when Koytoo, the Rotuma cook,
brought the breakfast, as usual consisting of yams, pork,
and coffee.
On the 5th of June, a small island schooner came in
belonging to a half-caste, and manned by a crew of the
same mixed origin. They brought all the news of the
group, and complained bitterly of the missionaries in-
juring their trade by inducing the natives to contribute
cocoa-nut oil towards the support of the Wesleyan So-
ciety, an article which formerly passed direct into the
hands of the small traders. When a native became
Christian, he was made to give every three months eight
gallons of oil, or thirty-two a year, equal to £4 sterling.
Notice was given a few days before the oil was due;
and when a trader visited a place he found none but
empty casks,—the church had swallowed it all up.
This statement, like many others heard in the islands,
42 A MISSION TO VITI.
I found only partially true; indeed, I have never been
in a country where it is more difficult to arrive at real
facts than Fiji. To say nothing about those who make
it a point to diffuse absolute untruths, nearly everybody
seems to rejoice in overstating a case or giving a most
partial version of it; and it requires no slight discrimi-
nation to keep on good terms with those with whom
one wishes to stand well, so fearfully rampant is the
gossip. The most outrageous stories were unblushingly
circulated about the different consuls and missionaries ;
and sometimes I felt hot and cold, while having to be
an unwilling listener to scandal of this description.
People in civilized countries do not know how much they
owe to the laws that protect them, at least against the
grossest libels. Talk of village scandal, it is nothing to
it. Of course, in a society of whites so limited, this
state of affairs might be expected, but a new feature in
the history of gossip is that all the tittle-tattle of the
other groups of the Pacific was dealt out as so many
delicious morsels in Fiji. The doings of known per-
sonages in Tahiti, Samoa, and Tonga were discussed
with avidity. Fancy, we in Europe troubling ourselves
with the small talk of places more than a thousand
miles distant.
Before the arrival of the British consul, several of
these small island schooners carried on a profitable traf-
fic in human beings. They used to go to the large
islands, and purchase young women, for whom from five
to ten dollars in barter were usually given. These women
were sold again to whites in other parts of the group,
often for fifty dollars each. Several women were pointed
WAIRIKI. 43
out to me as having been bought in this way to be-
come housekeepers of European settlers, and, as their
new lords and masters clothed, fed, and treated them
better than their Fijian, they had cheerfully stayed with
them. Mr. Pritchard’s presence has in a great measure
put a stop to these and to several other iniquities, or at
all events prevented their being carried on in open day-
light; but until the home government shall think fit
to lighten the consul’s duties, by placing a fast-sailing
schooner at his disposal, and allow him some abler as-
sistance than he has hitherto obtained from his clerks,
similar shortcomings must be expected.
On the 12th of June I went for a few days to Wairiki.
The premises occupied by the mission of that place are
very commodious; there are two large dwelling-houses,
built about two hundred yards apart, one occupied by Mr.
Waterhouse, the other by Mr. Carey. On the second
day of my stay there, those two gentlemen returned
from Bau, bringing a message from Mr. Pritchard, the
British consul, to the effect that Colonel Smythe had
as yet not arrived, and that a little schooner should be
sent for me, in case I did not reach Ovalau by the 12th
instant. Mr. Carey showed me his collection of native
curiosities, including a fine set of clubs, spears, bows,
and arrows. I also saw here for the first time a fan
made of the leaf of a beautiful palm, a tree which had
proved quite new to science, and which in honour of
Mr. Pritchard, and as a grateful acknowledgment of
the invaluable assistance he rendered to me, the name
of Pritchardia pacifica has been given by Mr. Wend-
land and myself,—the specific name being justified by
44 A MISSION TO VITI.
its growing in various groups of the Pacific, and Mr.
Pritchard’s untiring efforts to preserve the peace of that
region. Fans made of this palm are used exclusively
by the chiefs, and forbidden to be carried by the com-
mon people. Should Fiji ever choose a national em-
blem, the claims of this palm to be regarded as such,
should not be overlooked.
Mrs. Waterhouse made me a present of an Orange
Cowry, or Bulikula as the natives term it (Cyprea
aurantium, Martyn), the first I had seen there. This
shell has hitherto been found exclusively in Fiji, where
it is confined to the islands and shores of North-west
Viti Levu; it is worm as an ornament around the
neck by natives of rank. Not many years ago, a couple
of these cowries would fetch as much as £50 in Eu-
rope, but at present a pair without the least flaw, and
of the deepest tint the shell is known to assume, may be
bought in London for £6. Hugh Cuming, Esq., the
possessor of the largest conchological collection ever
brought together, is my authority. This statement
will doubtless be received with surprise by the Fijian
traders, who ask a much higher price on the spot, and
still fancy great profits might be realized, in the Euro-
pean markets. It should however be remembered, that
though the Orange Cowry is extremely local in its geo-
graphical range, and will consequently always be a rare
shell, specimens have found their way to every public
museum and every private cabinet of importance long
ere this, and the principal demand having thus been
met, the price has necessarily declined.
The road from Wairiki to Somosomo leads for seve-
A KITE.—THE ‘PAUL JONES.’ 45
ral miles along a fine sandy beach, underneath a bower
of stately trees, and then branches off inland. I passed
magnificent groves of Tahitian chestnuts (Inocarpus
edulis, Forst.), growing on the banks of rivulets and
diffusing a delightful shade and coolness, whilst their
grooved trunk and knobby root, always rising above the
ground, are conspicuous objects. Although it was now
the dry season, nevertheless I was completely drenched
by several showers. Indeed there were few fine days
during the whole time I was staying in Taviuni, and I
may as well add that 1860 was as unusually wet in
Fiji as that year proved in Europe and other countries.
The land between Wairiki and Somosomo does not
appear to be very rich, the soil being rather stony; the
extreme luxuriance of the vegetation must therefore
principally be ascribed to the great quantity of rain
that falls almost throughout the year.
One day, Messrs. Storck and Coxon made a large kite,
to the great amusement and entertainment of the Fi-
jians, who, chief and all, turned out to see it. They
called it a “ manumanu” (bird), and had never beheld
such a thing before; our Rotuma men, however, said
they knew it, and in their island often made it of
Ivi (Jnocarpus) leaves. Great was the joy when the
“ nostilions” reached their destination, and, as there was
a fine breeze, the trick was always successful. So much
were they gratified that they came for several days in
succession to beg that the kite might be brought out,
till at last the toy got such a bore that the makers were
obliged to destroy it.
In accordance with my request, Mr. Consul Pritchard
46 A MISSION TO VITI.
sent, on the 19th of June, the ‘Paul Jones,’ a schooner
of nine tons,—built in the islands by Mr. Jones, an Eng-
lishman formerly residing at Levuka,—and entirely of
native woods, Dilo (Calophyllum inophyllum, Linn.) and
Vaivai (Serianthes Vitiensis, A. Gray), with masts of Fi-
jian Kowrie-pine. The crew were all half-castes, mostly
sons of Englishmen who had taken up their residence
in Fiji. They could speak English more or less flu-
ently, having had some instruction at the different
missionary schools. The late Mr. Hunt, one of the
most distinguished champions of Christianity in these
parts, seemed to have taken considerable interest in
their education, and they always spoke in the highest
terms of him. It was amusing to hear some of their
English. In Fijian, B, N, and G, are combinations of
two distinct consonants, sounding like Mb, Nd, and
Ng. Joe, our cook, a very good-natured fellow, had the
greatest difficulty in steering clear of these letters. In
spite of all our pains, he would insist in telling us that
the “yams were quite ndone,” and that “mbreakfast was
ready.”
The captain of the ‘Paul Jones’ brought a letter
from the consul informing me that Colonel Smythe had
not yet arrived, and advising me to hasten my depar-
ture from Somosomo if I wished to take advantage of an
excursion he had arranged to the dominions of Kuru-
duadua, a powerful heathen chief, hitherto inaccessible
to all missionary influence, and residing on the large
island of Viti Levu. My mind was at once made up. In
a few hours, all my baggage was packed, and embarked.
During my stay at Somosomo, many of my things had
FIJIAN HONESTY. 47
been left in an open shed, and in boxes that could not
be locked every time they had to be opened; yet I did
not lose a single article, though the hatchets, knives,
and cotton prints must have been invaluable in the eyes
of the natives. On the whole, the Fijians confirm Cap-
tain Cook’s opinion, according to which the light-
coloured Polynesians have thievish propensities, the
dark-coloured not. The Tannese, a dark-coloured race,
he must either have looked upon as an exception to his
rule, or else they must not have been in those days the
set of expert thieves they are at present.
The extreme fertility of the soil about Somosomo in-
duced me to establish there an experimental cotton plan-
tation; and before fairly embarking on board the ‘ Paul
Jones’ for Ovalau, I must insert a short chapter on
cotton, which those who think it a subject no amount
of literary skill can make attractive, may skip without
losing the thread of the general narrative.
48
CHAPTER III.
FIJI AS A COTTON-GROWING COUNTRY.—COTION NOT INDIGENOUS BUT NA-
TURALIZED.—-NATIVE NAMES.—NUMBER OF SPECIES.—-AVERAGE PRODUCE
OF THE WILD COTTON.—EXCELLENCE OF FIJIAN COTTON ACKNOWLEDGED
AT MANCHESTER.—EFFORTS OF BRITISH CONSUL AND MISSIONARIES TO
EXTEND ITS CULTIVATION.—THE FIRST THOUSAND POUNDS OF COTTON
SENT HOME.—ESTABLISHMENT OF A PLANTATION AT SOMOSOMO, WAKAYA
AND NUKUMOTO.—PROSPECTS OF COTTON-GROWING IN FIJI.
Cotton was one of the subjects to which attention was
principally directed by my instructions; and I have en-
deavoured to collect every information which might
prove useful in forming a correct estimate of the Fijis
as a cotton-growing country. IfI understand the na-
ture and requirements of cotton aright, the Fijis seem
to be as if made for it. In the whole group there is
scarcely a rod of ground that might not be cultivated, or
has not at one time or other produced a crop of some
kind, the soil being of an average amount of fertility,
and in some parts rich in the extreme. Cotton re-
quires a gently undulated surface, slopes of hills rather
than flat land. The whole country, the deltas of the
great rivers excepted, is a succession of hills and dales,
covered on the weather-side with a luxuriant herbage
or dense forest ; on the lee-side with grass and isolated
screw-pines, more immediately available for planting.
A FIRST-RATE COTTON-GROWING COUNTRY. 49
Cotton wants sea-air. What country would answer this
requirement better than a group of more than two hun-
dred islands surrounded by the ocean as a convenient
highway to even small boats and canoes, since the un-
checked force of the winds and waves is broken by
the natural breakwater presented by the reefs which
nearly encircle the whole? Cotton requires, further,
to be fanned by gentle breezes when growing, and a
comparatively low temperature ; there is scarcely ever a
calm, either the north-east or the south-east trade-wind
blowing over the islands keeps up a constant current,
and the thermometer for months vacillates between 62°
and 80° Fahrenheit, and never rises to the height at-
tained in some parts of tropical Asia, Africa, or Ame-
rica. In fine, every condition required to favour the
growth of this important production seems to be pro-
vided, and it is hardly possible to add anything more in
order to impress those best qualified to judge with a bet-
ter idea of Fiji as a first-rate cotton-growing country.
Cotton is not indigenous in any part of the group.
Independent of its introduction being alluded to in va-
rious works as having taken place in the early part of
this century, there is no proper vernacular name for it.
In all such cases, the Fijian language borrows that of
an indigenous plant resembling the introduced one as
closely as possible ; thus the Cassava root received the
name of “Yabia ni papalagi” (7. e. foreign arrowroot),
the bird’s-eye pepper that of “Boro ni papalagi” (7.e.
foreign nightshade), and the pine-apple that of “ Ba-
lawa ni papalagi” (7.e. foreign screw-pine). By the
same rule, cotton became known as “ Vauvau ni papalagi”
E
50 A MISSION TO VITI.
(i. e. foreign Vauvau), from its close resemblance to the
Bele, or Vauvau (Hibiscus [Abelmoschus| Manihot, Linn.),
a cultivated species, the leaves of which are eaten as a
potherb. It is true that when foreigners speak about
“Vauvau” the natives of the coast know cotton is meant,
but in districts where cotton has not yet penetrated, as
for instance at Namosi, Viti Levu, one is sure to get the
edible Hibiscus, if Vauvau, without adding “ni papalagi”
(foreign), be asked for.*
Yet, notwithstanding cotton being undoubtedly an
introduced plant, and although until lately no attention
whatever was paid to its cultivation, it has spread over
all the littoral parts of Fiji, and become in some locali-
ties perfectly naturalized. Six different kinds have come
to my knowledge, all of which are shrubby, and pro-
duce flower and fruit throughout the whole year, though
the greater number of pods arrive at maturity during
the dry season, from June to September. There are
two kinds of kidney-cotton, one (Gossypium Peruvianum,
Cav.) having naked, the other (Gossypium sp. nov.?)
mossy seeds. A third kind (Gossypiwm Barbadense, Linn.)
has disconnected naked seeds; a fourth (Gossypium ar-
boreum, Linn.) has disconnected seeds covered with a
greenish moss and long staple; a fifth is probably an
inferior variety of the preceding one, and only differs
from it in the length of the staple; and a sixth (Gossy-
pium religiosum, Linn.), being the Nankin cotton, valua-
ble only in certain foreign markets. The four first-men-
* In Tahiti Gossypium Barbadense is known as “ Vavau,” a name evi-
dently identical with the Fijian “ Vauvau.” Nankin cotton (@. religioswm)
was found wild in Tahiti by Forster.
YIELD OF WILD COTTON. 51
tioned kinds, especially Gossypium Peruvianum and Gos-
sypium arboreum, are the most frequent in the group ;
the fifth seems confined to Laselase, some miles from
Namosi; and the sixth (Nankin) has been met with on
Kadavu by Mr. Pritchard, and on the Rakiraki coast
by Colonel Smythe.
There is scarcely any difference in the look of the
four first-mentioned kinds which a person not botani-
cally trained could readily detect. Left to themselves,
and never subjected to the pruning knife, these cotton
shrubs become as high as a tall man can reach, and each
shrub spreads over a surface of about fourteen feet
square. I have had no opportunity of counting the
number of pods produced throughout the year by a
single specimen, but that found in July was on the
average seven hundred per plant. Twenty pods of
cleaned cotton weighed 1 0z.; thus each plant would
yield 2lbs. 30z. Allowing fourteen feet square for
each plant, an acre would hold 222 plants, yielding at
the rate of 2lbs. 30z. per individual plant, 485 lbs.
10 oz. Even fixing the price of sorts, worth more than
1s. at Manchester, as low as 6d. per pound on the spot,
an acre would realize £12. 2s. 92d. When it is borne
in mind that Fijian cotton brings forth ripe fruit with-
out intermission throughout the year, but that this cal-
culation is based solely upon the number of pods found
at one time only, and that the pods were gathered from
plants upon which no attention whatever had been be-
stowed, the result will be still more striking; double,
even treble the above quantity may safely be calculated
upon as their annual crop. When it is further remem-
E 2
52 A MISSION TO VITI.
bered that Fijian cotton is not an annual, as it is in the
United States, and all other countries, when killed by
frost or too low a temperature, and that the plants will
continue to yield for several years without requiring any
other attention than keeping them free from weedy
creepers and pruning them periodically, the encourage-
ment held out to cultivators will be pronounced very
great.
Until the excellence of Fijian cotton had been ac-
knowledged at Manchester, and the mercantile value of
the different sorts been ascertained to be 7d. to 7T#d.,
8d., 9d., 11d., and even 12d. to 123d. per pound respec-
tively, no attempt had been made to cultivate the plant.
It was almost entirely left to itself, and perhaps only
here and there disseminated by the natives, in order to
furnish materials for wicks. But when in November,
1859, Mr. Pritchard returned from England to Fiji, with
the valuation printed in the Manchester ‘ Cotton Supply
Reporter,’ for March, 1859, he induced the most influen-
tial chiefs to give orders for planting it; and the Wes-
leyan missionaries, without any exception, zealously
aided in these endeavours by recommending the culti-
vation, both personally and through the agency of their
native teachers. Thus, cotton has been thickly spread
over all the Christianized districts, and imparts to them
a characteristic feature, occasionally very striking in
places having a mixed religious population. In Navua,
for instance, that part of the town inhabited by Chris-
tians is full of cotton, whilst that inhabited by the
heathens destitute of it.
To guard against misconceptions, it must be stated that
EXTENSION OF COTTON CULTIVATION. 53
eotton has as yet been cultivated by the natives in their
peculiar style. Those who would look in the islands for
broad square acres covered with any given produce will
be seriously disappointed. The Fijian cultivator has such
an abundance of good land at his command, and holds
such stringent notions about the fallows to be observed,
that he selects patches here and there only, which after
an annual or biennial occupation, are deserted for others
cleared for the purpose. When cotton was recom-
mended to him, he followed his old cherished system,
and the isolated patches now beheld are the result.
These patches are of various sizes, but I have not seen
any containing more than fifty plants. In Namara, and
other districts subject to Bau, isolated specimens, often
as many as twenty, are met with on the margins of
every taro, banana, and yam plantation. On the island
occupied by Bau, the Fijian capital, Mr. Storck, my
assistant, counted four hundred shrubs, growing in the
streets and squares. The number of plants thus dis-
persed all over Fiji must be considerable, though no-
body could venture to give any approximate estimate of
them ; and their aggregate produce, if attentively col-
lected, would doubtless amount to a quantity scarcely
expected from such sources. My. Pritchard, in order
to open the trade, pledged himself, before leaving Eng-
land, to his Manchester friends, to forward 1000 Ibs. of
cleaned cotton within twelve months’ time, and he ex-
perienced no difficulty in obtaining from Kadavu, Na-
droga, and Bau an amount exceeding that promised
before the time fixed for its dispatch,—the first ever
sent home. Now that a demand has been established,
54 A MISSION TO VITI.
there will be a marked increase in the crops, when the
numerous young plants added to the old stock at Mr.
Pritchard’s investigation begin to produce their harvest.
On leaving England in February, 1860, the Man-
chester Cotton Supply Association, through their able
secretary, Mr. Haywood, furnished me with a large
quantity of New Orleans and Sea Island cotton-seeds,
together with printed instructions for their cultivation.
Distributing a fair share of the seeds and papers amongst
white settlers, who, I felt persuaded, would make use
of them, I myself was enabled to establish a small cotton
plantation on the Somosomo estate of Captain Wilson,
and M. Joubert, of Sydney, in the island of Taviuni.
None of the seeds of the Sea Island sort possessed any
germinating power ; but those of the New Orleans cot-
ton were very good, and readily grew. Sown on the
9th of June, they began to yield ripe pods within three
months, and I was thus enabled to take home a crop
from the very seed I brought out, though my absence
from England only amounted to thirteen months alto-
gether. This may truly be termed growing cotton by
steam. When I paid a second visit to Somosomo, on
the 18th of October, my plants were from four to seven
feet high, full of ripe pods and flowers, which in the
morning were of a pale yellow, but towards evening
turned pink. Koytoo, the Rotuma native, whom I had
desired to look after the plantation, said that the field
only required weeding once; . after that the cotton-plants
grew so rapidly that they kept down: the weeds, and he
had no further trouble.
Simultaneously, Dr. Brower, -United States Vice-Con-
SUCCESS OF AN EXPERIMENTAL PLANTATION. 55
sul, had succeeded in raising New Orleans cotton on his
estate, in the island of Wakaya, twelve pods of which
weighed an ounce; whilst the seeds distributed by me
amongst various people had evidently not fallen on
barren soil. Of course, my plantation could only be a
small one, but nevertheless it proved so far beneficial
that it convinced those white settlers who had lately
repaired to the group what quick returns cotton would
yield, and some of them resolutely set about establish-
ing plantations. The mail brought the news that some
of them had as many as fifteen acres planted. Mr.
Storck, my assistant, who went from Sydney with me
to Fijis, made up his mind to remain behind when I
came away, in order to devote his energies to cotton-
growing. Mr. Pritchard supplying him with land, he
commenced a plantation at Nukumoto, on the island
of Viti Levu; and if the experiment should prove re-
munerative, more land will speedily be brought under
cultivation.
The fact that cotton will grow, and will grow well,
being established, the success of this and similar attempts
will chiefly depend upon the supply of manual labour.
Those best acquainted with the condition of the group,
and the character of its people, confidently look forward
to a steady supply of it. In Rewa, Ovalau, and other dis-
tricts longest frequented by whites, the natives go round
asking for employment. This is quite an innovation,
and shows that the Fijian is becoming gradually accus-
tomed to labour for fixed wages; and, when the chiefs
shall have either voluntarily relinquished or been com-
pelled to give up their claim to all the property ac-
56 A MISSION TO VITI.
cumulated by the lower classes, a favourable result will
be the immediate consequence, and a fresh impulse be
imparted to all branches of industry. Let the common
people once be assured that nobody can legally take
their fair earnings away from them, and that the little
‘comforts with which they have managed to surround
themselves may be openly displayed without the dan-
ger of being coveted by the chiefs and their favourites,
and they will doubtless be eager to engage in any work
that does not require any great mechanical skill or
violent exertion, and at the same time will yield them
reasonable returns. *
* Whilst these sheets were passing through the press, the Fijian contri-
bution to the Great Exhibition of 1862 has arrived, which Mr. Consul
Pritchard, in a letter to me, dated Levuka, Fiji, March 12th, 1862, accom-
panies with explanations, of which the following have an important bearing
upon the cotton. question :—‘‘ The box No. 1 contains eight samples of
cotton. Of these samples, No. 1 is New Orleans cotton, from the planta-
tion you established at Somosomo, which since your departure has been
sadly neglected; the trees are half withered and overgrown with bush,
and I fear the quality has much deteriorated. No. 2 is kidney cotton,
grown by Mr.-Storck on his plantation at Nukumoto (Rewa River). It
was planted in July and gathered in December last. No. 3 is kidney cot-
ton, native-grown at Rewa. No. 4is native-grown, from Burebasaga (Rewa
River). No. 5 is Sea Island cotton, grown on Nukulau, the little island
in the Rewa roads, and planted by an Englishman, Mr. Smytherman, in
January, and collected in August, 1861.” I should here add, that Mr.
M‘Clintock, nephew of Sir Leopold M‘Clintock, sowed some Sea Island
cotton at Rewa; in twenty-four hours it was up, with the first two leaves
quite open; in two months and twelve days it was in full blossom, ‘and
is now almost ready to gather, not having been planted three months!
“ No. 7 is from Mr. Eggerstrém’s plantation at Nagara, and was gathered
four months after planting. No. 8 is native-grown.”
Sea Island cotton delights in sandy soil impregnated with saline par-
ticles, and localities wafted by sea-breezes, such as Rewa and Nukulau are.
With the high prices now commanded by this kind, and the prospect of
continuance of civil wars in the United States, speculators would find it
highly remuneratire to hire or purchase land about Rewa, or localities simi-
larly situated, for the cultivation of Sea Island cotton.
EXCELLENCE OF FIJIAN COTTON. ST
It is well known, both from public journals and the
‘Correspondence relating to the Fiji Islands,’ presented by
command of her Majesty to both Houses of Parliament,
May, 1862, that from samples submitted by Mr. Pritch-
ard, the Executive Committee of the Manchester Cotton
Supply Association resolved, “That these samples are of
qualities most desirable for British manufacture; that
such a range of excellent cotton is scarcely now received
from any cotton-growing country; and that the supply
obtained from the United States does not realize nearly
so high an average value as this Fijian cotton.” It
must be borne in mind, that these and similar opinions
were arrived at in 1859, long before my visit to the is-
lands and the publication of the favourable report I
made.* Doubtless the same Committee would now be
prepared to pronounce a still higher opinion, if that were
possible. The Fijian samples sent to the Great Exhibi-
tion of 1862 would furnish capital material for renewed
examination, and amongst them would be found some
of Sea Island cotton, the sort which, having the largest
staple and fetching the highest price, was hitherto ex-
clusively grown in perfection on the coast of South
Carolina, Georgia, and a small part of Florida. Fiji
has now supplied every sort of cotton, from the cheapest
to the very best, and capitalists would do well in direct-
ing their attention to it.
* My report was sent by the Colonial Office to Manchester, and first
published in No. 71 of the ‘Cotton Supply Reporter,’ of August 1st, 1861.
CHAPTER IV.
DEPARTURE FROM SOMOSOMO.—ISLAND OF WAKAYA.—THE BALOLO.—ARRI-
VAL AT LEVUKA.—H.B.M. CONSUL.—THE LATE MR. WILLIAMS.—LADO
AND ITS ORIGIN.—SITE FOR THE NEW CAPITAL.—THE KING OF FIJI.—
BAU.—CAUSES OF ITS SUPREMACY.—VIWA.
Tue ‘ Paul Jones’ had been seven days on her voyage
from Port Kinnaird to Somosomo, having had to beat up,
but in going back she had a fair though not a very
strong wind. We left Somosomo in the afternoon of the
20th of June, and called at Wairiki to wish good-bye to
the missionaries, and return them several articles they
had kindly lent us. The first night we anchored in a
small bay on the southern coast of Vanua Levu, and
went on shore the next morning to botanize. The town,
built near a great swamp, consists of about forty houses.
We had scarcely shown our white faces in the first
house when all the little children set up a perfect
scream, and nothing their parents said or did could pa-
cify them. If they had seen the “old gentleman” him-
self in propria persond, they could not have been more
frightened. The piercing screams brought children of
all the other houses out, till the whole formed one
great yelling chorus, so terribly grating on our ears that
we made all possible haste to escape into the woods. Our
WAKAYA. 59
excursion produced several plants not previously noticed,
and also resulted in the discovery of an entirely new
genus of Rhamnacew, which I have called, in honour of
Colonel Smythe, R.A., Smythea pacifica.*
Steering in a south-westerly direction, we sighted the
island of Koro, or Goro as some charts erroneously term
it, where an immense number of yams are grown, and
the souls of all the pigs killed in the group are supposed
to go. A little further on we passed Wakaya, a small
island belonging to Dr. Brower, and the site of a settle-
ment chiefly composed of half-castes, who, besides at-
tending to the sheep and cattle, look after the planta-
tions of sugar, coffee, and cotton the enterprising Doc-
tor has established. The most remarkable fact con-
nected with Wakaya is its being one of the places
where the Balolo, a curious annelidan, makes its periodi-
cal appearance. Of the very existence of this singular
animal naturalists knew nothing, until a few years ago
Dr. Gray, of the British Museum, described it under
the name of Palolo viridis, adopting its Samoan and
Tonguese vernacular name for the genus; and Dr. Mac-
donald wrote on its anatomy. The time when the Ba-
lolo comes in may be termed the Fijian whitebait
season. It is watched for with the greatest anxiety,
and predicted with unerring certainty from the phases
of the moon. The first of these worm-like creatures
floating on the surface of the ocean are seen in October,
* A coloured plate and a full description of this singular genus, closely
allied to Ventilago, with which it agrees in habit to a remarkable degree,
but differing by having a veritable dehiscent capsule, instead of a drupe,
has been published in ‘ Bonplandia,’ vol. x. p. 69, tab. 9. Additional par-
ticulars will be found in my ‘ Flora Vitiensis.’
60 A MISSION TO VITI.
hence termed Vula i Balolo lailai, 7. e. the little Balolo
month. Myriads appear about the latter end of No-
vember, generally on the 25th, which from that fact is
known as the Vula i Balolo levu, or great Balolo month ;
and the natives of the coast are particularly busy in
catching and forwarding the delicacy of the season to
friends residing in places deprived of it,—presents all
the more appreciated as a whole year must elapse be-
fore the same boon can again be conferred.
In a letter dated Levuka, Fiji, December 6th, 1861,
and addressed to her friends, an English lady gives the
following account :—“ In November we all went for a
few days to Wakaya, about ten miles east-north-east
from Ovalau, in order to see the Balolos, which rise out
of the reefs just before daylight, first in small numbers,
but about sunrise in such masses that the sea looks
more solid than liquid. As they were to appear on the
morning of the 25th, we retired to rest at an early hour
the night before, and rose with the moon, about one
o'clock in the morning. An hour’s pull in the whale
boat brought us to the very spot they were to come.
We found several natives already collected there in
boats and canoes, all anxiously looking out who should
get the first. This they discovered by sitting with their
hands in the water as the canoe was gently paddled about.
Presently there was great shouting,—nets were put out,
the excitement commenced. At first our nets did very
well, but soon the Balolos became too numerous for
them to be of any use, and they were caught by the
hand and thrown into the baskets with which the boats
were filled. We placed a white handkerchief about
THE BALOLO. 61
four inches below the surface of the water, but the
little creatures were so thick above it that it was quite
invisible. At first I could not make up my mind to
touch them, but seeing every one else doing so, I sum-
moned up all my courage, plunged in my hands, and
grasped a goodish number, of which, however, I got rid
as quickly as possible. The little slimy things twist
round the hand in half a second. They are, of course,
perfectly harmless, swim very fast, and the longer ones
have sometimes five or six coils in the body. When at
the thickest they are all entangled one in another,
which gives a very curious appearance, as they are of
various colours, green, red, brown, and sometimes white.
As the sun gains power they dissolve, and about eight
or nine o’clock you scarcely find one. It is always in
November they come in such masses, just after the last
quartering of the moon, and they rise with the tide.
As soon as the natives have gathered all they can, they
make fires and ovens to cook them. Small quantities of
Balolos are tied up in bread-fruit leaves, and have to
lie in the oven from twelve to eighteen hours. When
all is cooked, the natives expect a heavy shower of rain,
as they say to put out the fires of their ovens. Should
there be no rain, a bad yam season is predicted.”
Several of the white residents eat Balolo, and a
strong-minded English lady assured me it was quite a
relish ; however, everybody knows the old proverb, ‘“‘ De
gustibus,” etc., and if in the Samoan, Tongan, Fijian, or
New Hebrides group—in all of which the Balolo is
found—a dish of this description should be served up,
strangers must exercise their own discretion whether
62 A MISSION TO VITI.
The Balolo (Palolo viridis, E. Gray).—Fig. 1. The entire animal, na-
tural size ; 2. Portion of the body slightly magnified; 3. Magnified figure
of the head, with its three frontal tentacula and eyes ; the position of the
retracted jaws is shown in the central dark space behind the tentacula ;
4. Posterior extremity of the Balolo, dorsal aspect; figures 3 and 4 copied
from Macdonald’s paper in ‘ Linnean Transactions,’ xxii.
THE BALOLO. 63
these little, creeping, crawling things, with their cylin-
drical, jointed body, are a delicacy to be recommended
or a nuisance to be avoided.
The most singular portion of the natural history of
the Balolo is the regularity of its periodical appearance.
About Hanover I have often observed devout Roman
Catholics going on the morning of St. John’s day to
neighbouring sandhills, gathering on the roots of herbs
a certain insect (Coccus Polonica) looking like drops of
blood, and thought by them to be created on purpose
to keep alive the remembrance of the foul murder of
St. John the Baptist, and only to be met with on the
morning of the day set apart for him by the Church. I
believe the life of this insect is very ephemeral, but by
no means restricted to the 24th of June. But there is
an Australian bird (Psittacus wndulatus) which is known
to lay its eggs always on the 17th and 19th of Decem-
ber, and forms another instance of certain actions in the
life of an animal being performed, with unerring cer-
tainty, on particular days.
On the 22nd, at four P.M., we entered the harbour of
Levuka, the principal port of the island of Ovalau.
Captain Wilson, who had left Somosomo a few days be-
fore me, was standing at the beach, and conducted me
to the office of the British Consulate, where I found
Mr. William Pritchard, by whom the cession of Fiji to
England has been brought about, and to whom I deli-
vered a letter from Earl Russell. Mr. Pritchard is the
son of the Rev. George Pritchard, formerly British Con-
sul at Tahiti, at the time when the French, against the
wish and will of the natives, assumed the protectorate
64 A MISSION TO VITI.
of that group, treated Queen Pomare with unusual
harshness, and the British representative in a manner
that nearly brought about a war between France and
England. Born in Tahiti, and thoroughly acquainted
with the Samoan and most other Polynesian groups, Mr.
Pritchard enjoys the peculiar advantage of being per-
fectly familiar with all native modes of thought. During
my stay in Fiji I had frequent opportunities to see how
successfully he was able to deal with these islanders,
whenever any difficulty arose.
We called together on Mr. Binner, who has for years
filled the office of training-master to the Wesleyan
mission at Levuka, and also manages the commercial
affairs of this religious society in Fiji. We thence went
to Dr. Brower, the American Vice-Consul, who received
me with great kindness, and whenever I visited Levuka
I always took up my quarters under his hospitable roof.
Mr. Williams, the American Consul, had died a few
days before my arrival. I should have liked to have
seen him, in order to form an independent estimate of
a man about whom so many contradictory statements
were afloat. He did not live on good terms with the
missionaries, and controversies were carried on between
them in the Australian and American newspapers,
which, as is usual in such cases, proved advantageous
to neither party. Mr. Williams bought considerable
tracts of land, and it was maintained that the purchase
was not in all instances a fair one, and that the na-
tives had only from fear of American men-of-war given
their assent to these transactions. It is impossible to
say whether in all cases the sellers were satisfied with
LADO. 65
the bargain; yet 1 remember, quite in the interior of
Viti Levu, Chief Kuruduadua publicly declaring at an
official meeting that his brother had sold land to Mr.
Williams, and that he, regarding the purchase as valid,
had no wish to dispute it. This was a great deal from
a man like Kuruduadua, who had a violent dislike to
Americans, as some of them had burnt Navua, his sea-
side residence, a few years previously. Towards the
natives Mr. Williams appears to have been very kind,
and would not refuse them anything. I heard of a
bet which a chief made, that he would obtain a water-
proof coat just sent out to Mr. Williams, merely by
asking for it, and which was won by him who trusted
in Mr. Williams’s generosity. The whole of the land
on which the mission-station at Mataisuva is built, an
extensive piece of ground, was presented by Mr. Wil-
liams to the Wesleyan body at the very time when
some of their members were engaged in the hottest po-
lemical struggle with him.
Dispatching my collections made in the eastern parts
of the group by a vessel about to sail for Sydney, I
started with Mr. Pritchard, in the consular gig, for Lado
alewa, a little rocky islet on the western side of the
island of Ovalau, which we reached about sunset, after
a sail of about an hour and a half, and which Mr.
Pritchard kindly invited me to look upon as my home
during my stay in the islands.
Let me tell the history of this rock:—Once upon a
time, a god and goddess, who rejoiced in the name of
Lado (= Lando) were directed to block up the Motu-
riki passage leading into Port Kinnaird and the Bau
Fr
66 A MISSION TO VITI.
waters, in order to stop the rolling surf from disturbing
the nightly repose of the great Fijian deities. They
resolutely set about it; but having, in common with
other spiritual beings, a decided objection to daylight,
they threw the two enormous rocks collected for that
purpose in the middle of Port Kinnaird as soon as
they began to “smell the morn;” or, according to an-
other version, their noble selves became changed into
rocks, as were the villagers in the Bohemian legend of
Hans Heiling,—now bearing the names of Lado alewa,
the female Lado; and Lado tagane, the male Lado.
The latter version seems to be the most rational,—if
reason has anything to do with such things,—for
once transformed into stone the two spirits were
unable to stir again, whilst, if they had merely thrown
down their burden, they might have been made to
resume their labours, like Sisyphus of old. However,
be that as it may, the fact is, that we were now on the
rock identified with the name of the goddess—the
larger of the two; and I trust that whatever intentions
the Fijian Olympus may formerly have entertained re-
specting the two Lados in general, and the one we had
landed on in particular, they will reconsider the ques-
tion since the British colours wave on the summit of
this islet. The rocky slopes have been transformed
into terraces of flowers, and a neat European-built cot-
tage, with broad verandah, and a roof thatched with
sugar-cane leaves, contained the archives of the British
Consulate. The natives looked upon this house as a
perfect marvel of art; the windows, papered rooms, and
above all, the staircase,—-the first ever made in Fiji,
PORT KINNAIRD. 67
—proved a source of never-failing curiosity and admi-
ration.
Miss Pritchard made tea in the English fashion,
which I thoroughly enjoyed, after being so long com-
pelled to take it from the hands of rude natives. A
room was given up to me, and every comfort Fiji af-
forded was bestowed upon me. ‘To sleep once more in
a well-constructed, clean bed, under a good mosquito
curtain, is a luxury that only those who have been
obliged to forego for some time can fully appreciate.
It was high time that I arrived at such quarters, as I
began to experience symptoms of dysentery,—a disease
which has proved fatal to many new-comers from Eu-
rope. However, a judicious supply of Fijian arrowroot,
and a few glasses of port-wine, soon restored me to per-
fect health. My. Storck, who had been suffering from
his fall and those ulcerations to which most people
going to the tropics for the first time are subject, also
began to get better after being a few days at Lado,
so that both of us had reason to be extremely thankful
for the hospitality conferred.
There being no collective name for the waters situ-
ated between Moturiki and Ovalau, and sheltered by the
Yanuca (= Yanutha) islands, Mr. Pritchard, in honour
of the Honourable Arthur Kinnaird, who takes a deep
interest in Fiji, termed them Port Kinnaird, and endea-
voured to form a settlement on the south-western parts
of Ovalau. When I first visited this settlement there
were about twenty-five whites, some of whom had
cleared a little land; but most of them seemed to be-
long to that class of immigrants who arrive almost-
FQ
68 A MISSION TO VITI.
penniless, and are disappointed on not becoming trans-
formed into capitalists on landing. I endeavoured to
urge them to begin planting their land with such tro-
pical products as the climate favours, and told them of
my little cotton plantation at Somosomo. All hoped
to make their fortune when Port Kinnaird should be-
come the capital of Fiji, and their land rise in value.
The question of where the capital of Fiji is going
to be on the country becoming a European colony,
is a much debated one in the islands. The unfitness
of Bau, the native capital, for all commercial purposes,
being generally acknowledged, four places have laid
claim to that distinction —Levuka, Ga Loa, Port Kin-
naird, and Suva. Levuka has always been a favour-
ite resort of the white population, and has a central
position, and a tolerably good though not large harbour,
but there is no room fora town. Rocks rise from almost
the water's edge, allowing space for only one or two rows
of houses, the heat in which is suffocating; and unless a
series of works is commenced similar to those which
render Valetta a city of terraces, there is no hope of
making Levuka more than a trading village. When I
finally left it, in November, 1860, there were only few
weather-boarded houses, belonging to the consuls and
missionaries,—all the rest of the dwellings were large
huts built by the natives. The finest house was that
of Mr. Binner, beautifully situated on the top of a hill,
and commanding a grand view of the reef and its curl-
ing surf. Closely adjoining Levuka—as London does
Westminster, New York Brooklyn, or Hamburg Altona
—is Totoga, a fortified place with thick walls and
SITE FOR THE NEW CAPITAL. 69
gateways, where the Roman Catholic missionaries and
several French reside. True, this place might be in-
corporated with Levuka, but it is surrounded by swamps,
the drainage of which would be a matter of difficulty to
a young community.
Ga Loa, or Black Dusk Bay, on the southern side
of Kadavu, is the next place that recommends itself to
consideration. Should a steam communication be esta-
blished from Brisbane, Australia, to Central America,
and vid Fiji, Ga Loa would recommend itself as a fit
place for steamers to call at; and I have advocated its
claims both in the ‘Atheneum’ and before the Royal
Geographical Society of London, and shall speak of it
again when describing our movements at Kadavu. But
I do not think it well suited for the capital of Fiji.
Kadavu, on which it is situated, is one of the southern-
most islands, and separated by a sea of more than
sixty miles from Viti Levu, the principal island, and by
more than one hundred and fifty miles from the centre
of Vanua Levu and Taviuni. Small canoes or open boats
could not venture thither except in fair weather,
and its isolation would always be against its becoming
the true metropolis.
Port Kinnaird offers great advantages, indepen-
dent of its central position. It is a very fine port, per-
fectly landlocked ; and if a portion of Moturiki could be
devoted to a site for a town, it would speedily rise in
importance,—for Moturiki is probably the finest little
island in the group. The entrance to Port Kinnaird
is popularly regarded as difficult and impracticable,
but a consultation of Captain Denham’s survey proves
70 A MISSION TO VITI.
ingress and egress to be easy. Port Kinnaird would
doubtless become the future capital if its advantages
were not totally eclipsed by Suva in Viti Levu. So
convinced has every one capable of forming an opinion
become that Suva will be the capital, that the land
around the harbour has enormously risen of late; £20
an acre was asked in November, 1860; and £10 I saw
actually refused for land a few years previously not
worth more than a few pence at the utmost. Not a
single house had then been built. The general con-
viction that Suva must become the capital seems to
have been the sole cause of this sudden rise. If one
were to write a puff for a land speculator, one would
hardly string together a greater number of favour-
able conditions. There is a good harbour, with mud
bottom, deep water right alongside of the shore, shel-
tered by a reef, and having a wide passage for the
largest vessels to beat out. When once inside the pas-
sage there is clear sea-room, no outlying shoals or
reefs. Suva commands the most extensive agricultural
district in Fiji, through which run fine rivers (the Navua
and Wai Levu or Rewa) navigable for boats for many
miles inland. Suva has besides outside reef communi-
cation completely around Viti Levu, with the exception
of a few miles on the southern shore and the westward,
and continuing to the northward to Vanua Levu, and
along the entire southern shore of that island. The
convenience of inside reef communication is demon-
strated in the case of parties employed in sawing. Logs
are purchased at a distance of forty miles from the pits,
and floated up by natives at a trifling cost. Were there
COMMERCIAL ENTERPRISE. 71
no reefs, this would be an impossibility. Suva Point
is a gently undulated country, free from swamps, and
about three miles wide or thereabout at the base. It
has on one side Suva Bay, on the other Laucala (= Lau-
thala) Bay; the latter first surveyed by Sir Edward
Belcher,* and offering many conveniences. The point
itself is open to the prevailing winds; it is thinly tim-
bered with bread-fruit, cocoa-nut, dawa, and other trees
of no great growth, and thus requires but little clearing.
A few days after my arrival at Lado, we were grati-
fied by a visit from Mr. Cesar Godeffroy, of Hamburg,
who had been several years in the South Sea es-
tablishing a direct trade with Germany, and planting
agencies in the most important groups. Messrs. Go-
deffroy and Co. are the first great house who have
entered this comparatively new field of commercial en-
terprise, and there is every reason to believe their ope-
rations successful. There is a great market in the
South Seas, but only those who have an intimate ac-
quaintance with the articles required should ever be
tempted to enter it. Even the comparatively few things
I took out for barter taught me the value of inquiring
most minutely into the exact nature of the articles here
current. Knives with white handles were rejected or
but slightly esteemed, though their blades were even
better than those having black ones, and so with every-
thing else.
Judging from the crowds of boats and canoes daily
arriving at Lado—for every one here has either the one
* Rewa Roads are called in the Admiralty Chart Nukulau Harbour; the
special chart published embraces the surveys of Sir E. Belcher.
72 A MISSION TO VITI.
or the other—the sudden disappearance of this Con-
sular establishment would be felt as a serious incon-
venience. The British Consul is now the sole authority
that keeps order in Fiji—the natives having voluntarily
made over to him the entire jurisdiction of the group,
and found it preferable in their quarrels with the whites
to abide by his judgment, rather than break their own
heads and those of the white settlers by an appeal to
the club. It was easy for them to arrive at this conclu-
sion; meanwhile, the person who thus found himself
called upon to adjust the differences of a native popu-
lation about twice that of New Zealand, and a thick
sprinkling of white immigrants, some of whom hold
queer ideas of poetical justice, had no idle time of it;
and if Mr. Pritchard had not acquired a thorough mas-
tery over the Polynesian mind by means of his intimate
acquaintance with all their customs, usages, and tradi-
tions, of which he skilfully avails himself, there would
be endless fights and dissensions, to the great detriment
of the native population and the interests of commerce.
I have repeatedly listened to the proceedings in court,
and been struck with the logical acuteness of the natives.
Their mind seems indeed of a much superior cast to
that of most savages; and their discussions are as much
above those of the Maoris reported in the New Zealand.
newspapers, as the talk of men is to the prattle of chil-
dren.
On the 28th of June, Cakobau (or Thakombau, as his
name may be written according to English orthography),
King of Fiji, and supreme Chief of Bau, paid a visit to
Lado, and I was formally introduced to him. His Ma-
KING CAKOBAU. 73
jesty has been described repeatedly as a man of almost
gigantic dimensions. But he is only of fair proportions,
and does not measure more than six feet in height. I
can speak very positively on these points, having
often seen him with nothing more than a few yards
of native cloth on, as well as in a blue naval uniform.
When dressed in uniform, people would scarcely believe
that he could be the same man whose powerful build
excited their attention. When one day in his company
I got quite close to him, in order to take his measure
without his becoming aware of the attempt. But his
quick eye had detected the studies of comparative ana-
tomy in which I was engaged, and very good-naturedly
he offered to stand close to me, when it was found that
he was more than two inches shorter than I am, without
his shoes and socks, whilst I measure exactly six feet
two inches, so that he is after all only six feet high.
It is not difficult to reconcile the statements relating
to his gigantic stature with what I have ascertained.
People not accustomed to move much amongst natives
almost in an absolute state of nudity, are generally de-
ceived about the size of the person they see before
them. Moreover, the King, previous to his conversion
to Christianity, wore a large head of hair, all frizzled and
curled in such a way as to stand literally on end, and
covered with a piece of white native cloth,—a device
which must have greatly added to his height, and in-
duced foreigners to believe him much taller than he
really is. He has of late years suffered a little from
elephantiasis, but generally enjoys very good health.
None of the portraits that have been published do jus-
74 A MISSION TO VITL
tice to him, and he feels rather annoyed that Europeans
should think him as ugly as those representations make
him. His face expresses great shrewdness and good-
humour; his bearing is very dignified on public occa-
sions; and it was gratifying to see him at church be-
having in a manner that no reasonable man could find
the slightest fault with.
The Queen of Fiji, to whom Cakobau has been mar-
ried according to Christian rites ever since he aban-
doned heathenism, is a rather stout, quiet woman, about
five feet two inches in height. I have only seen her
once dressed, and that at the time of our first official
interview about the cession. She then wore a neat
bonnet, latest Parisian fashion, a coloured silk dress,
and a black mantilla trimmed with lace. I need
scarcely add that the use of crinoline was not unknown
even in this remote quarter of the globe. The Queen,
at the interview alluded to, was rather bashful, owing
to a wish expressed by the Consul that she should sit
at her husband’s side, instead of, as the rules of the
country demanded, behind him. However, she com-
ported herself very well indeed, but I daresay was very
glad to get her clothes off as soon as the official inter-
view was over.
Cakobau calls himself “Tui Viti,” or King of Fiji,
and has a perfect right to it. True Fiji is divided into
a number of petty states, yet all of them acknowledge
vassalage to Bau by paying either a direct tribute to it,
or being tributary to states so circumstanced. It is
highly probable, however, that at one time all Fijians
were under one head, and formed perhaps a more com-
“TOL VITI.” 75
pact nation than they do at present. Of course, I am
aware the title “ Tui Viti” has been revived only lately ;
owing, it is stated, to a letter which General Miller,
formerly H. B. M. Consul-General at the Hawaiian, or
Sandwich Islands, addressed to “Tui Viti,” and which
Cakobau, as the most powerful chief of the leading
state, thought it nght to open. But the title “Tui
Viti” occurs in many ancient legends current in
various groups of Polynesia, and could scarcely have
originated with such close neighbours, who would
rather be apt to detract than to magnify the power of a
foreign nation already far above them in the exercise
of various useful arts and manufactures. Old traditions
further state the Fijians to have been an unwarlike
people, until they had established a more intimate and
frequent intercourse with the light-coloured races of
the eastern groups, when sanguinary intratribal quarrels
became almost their normal condition. These traditions
would be favourable to the existence of a powerful mo-
narchy in Fiji, such as legendary evidence represents it
as being at one time, and also its ultimate extinction
and remoulding by the growing power of petty chiefs,
skilful in new practices of war acquired whilst abroad.
The hypothesis advanced derives additional strength from
the fact of all Fijians, though scattered over a group of
more than two hundred different islands, speaking one
language, having a powerfully developed sense of nation-
ality, and feeling as one people. No ancient Roman
could have pronounced the words “ Civis Romanus sum”
with greater pride or dignity than a modern Fijian calls
himself a “ Kai Viti,” a Fijian. We can scarcely con-
76 A MISSION TO VITI.
ceive these general sentiments to have taken hold of
the popular mind with such force, if the people had
always been divided into petty states as at present.
Away from the capital and Cakobau, some of the Fijian
kinglets talk very boastfully of their total independence,
and wish you to believe the suzerainty of Bau merely
applies to certain inferior chieftains; whilst the social
supremacy is seldom disputed, and the court dialect is
understood by all the chiefs, even those living in the
remotest parts of the group, and it has therefore very
properly been adopted by the Wesleyan missionaries in
their translation of the Bible. Each of these states or
principalities has its ambassador at Bau (Mataki Bau),
who, however, does not constantly reside in the capital,
but only when there is any business to transact, which
may occasionally last for weeks or months. On arriving
at Bau, he takes up his abode at the house of the Bauan
“minister,” if he may be called so, charged with the
affairs of the district from which he comes as ambas-
sador, and he is by his host introduced to the King of
Fiji. When Bau has any business to transact abroad,
the ambassador selected is invariably the minister of
the affairs of the district to which he is sent, and his
place at the capital is temporarily filled by a relative.
The office of these diplomatic agents is hereditary in
certain families, and they are appointed by the ruling
chiefs. Title and office are quite as much valued as
they are in Europe by ourselves,—human nature being
human nature all the world over.
On the 28th of July, Mr. Pritchard and myself set
out in the consular gig for Navua, Viti Levu, to pay our
BAU. 77
visit to Chief Kuruduadua. There being rather a strong
south-easterly breeze, we arrived two hours after dark
at Bau, thoroughly wet from salt water, and heartily
glad to take shelter under the hospitable roof of Mr. Collis,
a gentleman connected with the mission. Until 1854,
Bau, which is the name of the metropolis, as well as
the ruling state, was opposed to the missionaries, and
the ovens in which the bodies of human victims were
baked scarcely ever got cold. Since then, however, a
great change has taken place. The King and all his
court have embraced Christianity; of the heathen tem-
ples, which, by their pyramidal form, gave such a pecu-
liar local colouring to old pictures of the place, only
the foundations remain ; the sacred groves in the neigh-
bourhood are cut down; and in the great square where
formerly cannibal feasts took place, a large church has
been erected. Not without emotion did I land on this
blood-stained soil, where probably greater iniquities
were perpetrated than ever disgraced any other spot on
earth. It was about eight o’clock in the evening; and
instead of the wild noise that greeted former visitors,
family prayer was heard from nearly every house. To
bring about such a change has indeed required no slight
efforts; and many valuable lives had to be sacrificed,—for
although no missionary in Fiji has ever met with a vio-
lent death, yet the list of those who died in the midst of
their labours is proportionally very great. The Wes-
leyans, to whose disinterestedness the conversion of these
degraded beings is due, have, as a society, expended
£75,000 on this object; and if the private donations
of friends to individual missionaries and their families
78 A MISSION TO VITI.
be added, the sum swells to the respectable amount of
£80,000.
Bau is built on a small island on the east side of Viti
Levu, with which it is connected by a long flat of coral,
fordable at high water, and in places bare at low. The
annexed sketch, taken in 1860, by Mrs. Smythe, and
kindly placed at my disposal, will give a better idea
of the place than any description. The island is at the
back about a hundred feet high, and around the beach
thickly covered with native houses, arranged in crooked
streets. The top of the island, where the British flag is
waving, was a mere receptacle for rubbish, until the in-
dustry of the missionaries converted it into smiling gar-
dens and eligible sites for dwelling-houses. At my first
visit the natives were just finishing their new Bure ni sa,
—a building, one or several of which are found in every
town, and which may be described as a compromise be-
tween our club-houses and town-halls. It was 125 feet
long, but not quite so high as the adjoining church,
which is 100 feet high, and seems a tremendous edifice
for natives to erect without nails, and the use of such
tools as are employed by us.
The King’s residence is close to the beach, and a
large native-built house, to which several out-houses
are attached: one of which is inhabited by Peter, a Ton-
guese, who fills the office of prime minister, and seems
much attached to the King. In front of the house is a
fine lawn of couch-grass, and groups of iron-wood, and
other native shrubs and trees,—the whole, I believe, a
creation of Mrs. Collis, the wife of the resident training
master at Bau, who will ever live in my memory, for
arauag iW Aq uavea(]
CAUSES OF BAU’S SUPREMACY. 79
having, amongst other great acts of kindness conferred,
never failed to supply me in this land of pork and yams
with bread, cakes, and other acceptable presents when-
ever I came in that neighbourhood.
Bau is said to own its present superiority to the for-
tunate accident of having been the first familiar with
the use of fire-arms. Charles Savage, a Swede, intro
duced it about the beginning of this century. But it
was not only to this accident that Bau is indebted to
its permanent ascendency. Like England, but on a
lilliputian scale, it is a great naval power, able to send
its fleets of canoes to any part rebelling against its
authority, or refusing to discharge its annual tribute.
The Bauans are a fine race, nearly all members of noble
families or gentlefolks. Most of them are tall, well-
proportioned, and often with a handsome cast of coun-
tenance. In Fiji, as in fact all over the South Sea, a
man is estimated by the height .of his body, and little
men are regarded with contempt. Their tall figures prove
a great advantage to the Bauans. This general con-
tempt for small men arises from the fact, that through-
out Polynesia the chiefs and upper classes are taller
than the lower orders, and with a finer physical they
combine a greater mental development. ‘They are in
every respect superior to the people whom they rule.
They are as genuine an aristocracy as ever existed in
any country. They know every plant, animal, rock,
river, and mountain; are familiar with their history,
legends, and traditions; and strict in observing every
point of their complicated etiquette. They swim, row,
sail, shoot, and fight better than the common people, and
80 A MISSION TO VITI.
excel in house and canoe building. Thus they keep their
place amongst a people not able to fall back upon dress
and finery to lend distinction to rank, dignity to person.
We were desirous of pushing on early the next morn-
ing, but as the tide did not suit, we ran over to Viwa,
a small island close to Bau, where a permanent print-
ing-press has been established in the first stone house
ever built in the group. The greater portion of the
Fijian Bible has been printed at this establishment ;
and the edition, now exhausted, is very much esteemed
by the natives. A Fijian and English Dictionary, com-
posed by D. Hazelwood, is another great work pro-
duced here in 1850. This Dictionary is full of a mass
of reliable information, and must be regarded as the
best contribution the Fijian missionaries have made
to science. Ethnologists, geographers, and naturalists,
and philologists as a matter of course, will find here
facts and observations not met with elsewhere.* Viwa
is full of fruit-trees, and altogether a charming spot.
The cocoanut palm seems to be the only plant that
does not flourish, After having attained a certain
height it begins to wither—the foliage looking as if boil-
ing water had been poured over it.
We found Messrs. Martin and Baker, the two gentle-
men connected with the mission of this place, absent,—
they having gone to look for an eligible new station on
Vanua Levu. But their wives were at home, and glad
to see us safe. Through telescopes they had watched
our boat on the previous evening, as long as daylight
* I believe Messrs. Triibner and Co., Paternoster Row, London, have
still a few copies of this publication on hand.
IMPRACTICABLE LAWS. 81
lasted, fearing that we might meet with some accident
in the rough sea we had to cross.
On going back to Bau, Mr. Fordham, the principal
missionary, represented to Mr. Pritchard the desirable-
ness of prohibiting the importation of firearms and gun-
powder into Fiji. Fighting, he thought, might thus be
prevented. Mr. Pritchard agreed with him that there
was not much use for those articles, there being no wild
animals, and only a few ducks and wood-pigeons to
shoot, but that it would be impolitic to venture upon
making any prohibitive law, waiving all considerations
as to the right of doing so, when there were no officers
to execute it. Even supposing that a certain pressure
could be put upon the English subjects, who was to pre-
vent the Americans, Germans, and French from selling
any number of firearms, and any amount of gunpowder,
to the natives? On a previous occasion, Mr. Pritchard
was seriously asked by another gentleman to introduce
the Maine liquor-law. No spirits of any kind should be
landed or sold. This idea the Consul also refused to
entertain. The law had broken down when enforced
by all the power of a great state, and could scarcely be
expected to work well under less favourable circum-
stances.
82
CHAPTER V.
THE WAI LEVU, OR GREAT RIVER.—CANAL DUG BY NATIVES.—MATAISUVA.
— INSTITUTION FOR TRAINING NATIVE TEACHERS.—SACRED GROVES,
TREES, AND STONES.—MOSQUITOES.—ISLAND OF NAIGANI.—MR. EGGER-
STROM’S KINDNESS.—FEUDS AT NADROGA.—NUKUBALAWU.—TAGURU.—
NAVUA RIVER.
Tue Rewa, Wai Levu, or great river of Viti Levu, has four
large mouths, and its deltas are extremely fertile, and
cultivated to some extent by the natives. About eighteen
miles from its mouth it receives the Wai Manu, which
comes from the west, whilst the main branch takes its
rise in the Namosi Valley. It was explored in 1856 by
Dr. Macdonald, of H.M.S. Herald, Captain Denham, ac-
companied by Mr. Samuel Waterhouse, of the Wesleyan
Mission, and a full account of their proceedings has been
published.* Mataisuva, our next stopping-place, is built
on one of the large deltas, a little below the town of
Rewa. From Bau it may be reached either by sea or
by going up the Wai ni ki, or Kaba mouth. The
natives have shortened the latter passage more than
* “Proceedings of the Expedition for the Exploration of the Rewa river
and its Tributaries, in Na Viti Levu, Fiji Islands. By John Denis Mac-
donald, Esq., Assistant Surgeon of H.M.S. Herald, Captain N. M. Den-
ham,” in the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society, vol. xxvii., pp.
232-268, with a Map by Arrowsmith.
KELE-MUSU CANAL. 83
twenty miles by cutting a canal, Kele Musu, across the
longest of the deltas. Taking advantage of the tide
setting in, we left Bau about noon and soon found our-
selves in the canal, probably the greatest piece of engi-
neering ever executed in these islands, affording a proof
how thickly they must have been populated to allow
such an undertaking, at a time when there was nothing
but staves to dig the ground, hands to shovel it up, and
baskets to carry it away. It has not been ascertained
when this canal was dug; all that can be elucidated is,
that it was made long ago, and for the purpose of carry-
ing out a military stratagem. It is about two miles
long, sixty feet wide, and large canoes pass without dif-
ficulty. On a subsequent occasion, our schooner, the
‘Paul Jones,’ finding it impossible to get from Bau to
Rewa by sea on account of a heavy gale, actually made
her way through this canal, by taking due advantage of
the tide.
We neared Mataisuva, the mission-station, about sun-
set, and passing the mangrove forest, were surprised to
see the immense number of Flying Foxes, or Bats (Wo-
topteris Macdonaldit), rising from them. They measure
nearly a yard from the extreme points of their wings.
My. Pritchard informed me that at Samoa, the same or
a very nearly allied species is a great pet with the natives
of that group, and probably the only known instance of
a domesticated bat.
Passing the town of Rewa, we reached Mataisuva at
half-past six on the evening of the 29th of June, and were
hospitably received by the Rev. W. Moore, who was then
the superintendent of an institution for training native
G2
84 A MISSION TO VITI.
teachers. A large square piece of ground had been set
aside for a number of houses surrounded by little gardens
in which the teachers resided. Some of these teachers
were Fijian, some Tonguese. The natives like their own
countrymen best, because they always suspect the Ton-
guese, and with good reason, of playing into the hands
of the Tonguese chiefs, whose great aim is to make them-
selves masters of Fiji. These teachers, after having been
properly trained at this institution, are sent as residents to
those parts of the country which have applied for them ;
and they are of very essential service in preparing the
ground for the white missionaries, whose limited number
is quite inadequate to the great task set before them,
that of christianizing Fiji. Many parts of the group
are now anxiously desiring the Gospel, but, with so few
labourers in the field and only limited funds, it is im-
possible to do much more than is now attempted. Apart
from any religious consideration, I should always sup-
port the Protestant missionary in preference to the Ro-
man Catholic, because the latter attempts simply the con-
version of the heathen, whilst the Protestant not only
christianizes, but at the same time civilizes them. The
quiet, well-regulated family life and cleanly habits which
our Protestant missionaries set before the savage, are of
inestimable value to the people whom they endeavour to
raise in the scale of humanity. It is quite wrong to
suppose that savages do not notice whether a man wears
clean linen and is well washed or not. They do notice
it, and never fail to draw comparisons in favour of those
who, by means of their comfortable homes, are enabled
to appear before them as good examples of cleanliness.
¥
MATAISUVA. 85
Though most of the white Wesleyan missionaries are
perfect masters of the language, they own themselves
that the native teachers they had trained generally beat
them in the choice of local illustrations. Of course,
there is occasionally a want of tact on the part of the
latter. Thus, one of them, wishing to illustrate how
wisely in everything nature had adapted the means to
the end, chose the hand, and commenced by saying,
“ Now, when you eat a human hand, you will perceive,”
etc. This illustration would have sounded odd to a
Christian congregation at home, but never excited any
notice amongst a people just emerging from cannibalism.
The church at Mataisuva is not so large as that at
Bau, but it is much better finished, and some of the
beams under the roof are covered with different-coloured
fibres of the cocoa-nut worked in various elegant patterns.
The ridge-beams, always projecting on both ends, accord-
ing to strict Fijian customs, are ornamented with white
shells (Ovwlum ovum, Swb.), and in front of the church
there are some curiously-cut stems of tree-ferns. Alto-
gether the building is a fine specimen of native ar-
chitecture, and the only thing to complete it is a good
tolling bell. Hitherto the congregation has been obliged
to be called together by large drums, made of Tavola
wood, beaten by thick and short pieces of wood,—a con-
trivance which may be heard for several miles around,
but sounds essentially unchristian.
The Rey. William Moore, as an apt Fijian scholar,
devotes some of the spare moments he can snatch to a
subject hitherto much neglected, that of collecting the
“mekes,” or old songs of the natives, now fast fading
86 A MISSION TO VITI.
away. He has also made considerable advance in trans-
lating ‘The Pilgrim’s Progress’ into Fijian, a task which,
if I mistake not, has been somewhat facilitated by Mrs.
Binner’s unpublished version of a portion of that book.
Bunyan’s great allegory has already been translated into
one or two Polynesian languages, and the natives seemed
to like it very much as long as they believed it to be
a*genuine story, but when they heard that it was only
a series of “lies,” their interest abated. It will be in-
teresting to know how the Fijians receive it. ‘They are
as true believers in the genuineness of their own nu-
merous fairy tales and doings of their gods, as the an-
cient Greeks were in those of their gods and demigods ;
—the hold which Homer had on the national mind
arising, probably, quite as much from his embodying this
feeling, as well as expressing it in language still the
admiration of mankind.
Accompanied by Mr. Moore we went to the town of
Rewa, in order to gather specimens of two new palms,
one of them a fan-palm (Pritchardia pacifica, Seem. et
Wendl.), the leaves of which are only used by chiefs, as
was the case with those of the Talipot palm in Ceylon.
I also collected some interesting information about the
bread-fruit, of which there are no less than ten different
varieties cultivated at Rewa, including the best of the
group.
On our way home we fell in with a little schooner
belonging to the mission, and returning from a trip up
the Rewa river, where she had been sent for yams. She
had not accomplished her object, as two hostile parties
of natives had not allowed her to pass, and even fired
SACRED GROVES AND TREES. 87
at her, without however wounding or killing any one.
Formerly these inter-tribal feuds were of much more fre-
quent occurrence, and often protracted over a consider-
able period of time; but since firearms have become
accessible to all parties, the same result followed in Fiji
as in Europe upon the invention of gunpowder.
Sacred groves and trees form as prominent a feature
in the paganism of the Fijians as they did in that of
the Indo-Germanic nations. A fine grove still exists in
the Rewa district near the mission-station of Mataisuva,
and at a point of the coast termed Na Vadra Tolu (the
three screw-pines), probably from three specimens of
the Pandanus odoratissimus, still a common plant in
that locality, having stood there. Leaving the mission-
premises, and keeping along the sandy beach, an enor-
mous Yevuyevu tree (Hernandia Sonora, Linn.) presents
itself, forming a complete bower, which leads to a curi-
ous group of vegetable giants. A venerable Vutu raka-
raka (Barringtonia speciosa, Linn.), more than sixty feet
high, has thrown out several huge branches, two of
which form, in connection with the stem, bold arches.
The large aerial roots of epiphytical fig-trees are hold-
ing the monster in close embrace ; several kinds of ferns
and climbing drotdeew and wax-flowers (Hoyas) interlace
the struggling masses, and tend to increase the wildness
of this fantastic scene. The dense foliage of surround-
ing Vesi, Ivi, and other fine trees ensures a constant
gloom and sombreness to the place; and only through
the bower, serving as an entrance, does the eye obtain
a glance at the open sea, and perchance the sight of a
passing canoe with its large triangular sail. It was at
88 A MISSION TO VITI.
this lonely spot, far away from human habitations, where
in the depth of night the heathen priest used to con-
sult the gods whether it was to be war or peace. If at
dawn of day blood was found on the path, more blood
was to be spilt; if no such sign was discoverable, peace
was the watchword. Several celebrated groves were de-
stroyed on the introduction of Christianity, and a large
one near Bau was felled the day after King Cakobau
had embraced the new faith, the native carpenters trem-
bling when they had to lay the axe on objects so long
sacred to them by all the laws of “tabu.” They were
taught by tradition that when, once upon a time, their
forefathers felled some of these trees, and repaired the
next day to the spot in order to square the logs, they
found the trees again in their proper position, and
growing as if no sacrilegious axe had ever laid them
low.
Besides these groves, there were isolated trees which
were held sacred; and in days of yore European saw-
yers came occasionally in unpleasant contact with the
Fijians when, unknowingly, they had cut them down
for timber. Vesi (Afzelia bijuga, A. Gray) and Baka
(Ficus sp.) seemed to have been those principally selected.
The Vesi furnishes the best timber of the islands, and
may, as the most valued tree, have been thought the fit
residence of a god; there is nothing in its appearance
that is extraordinary, our beech most nearly resembling
it in look. The Baka is not famous for its timber; but
its habit is as remarkable as that of the banyan-tree of
India, aerial roots propping up its branches and forming
a fantastic maze which no words can describe. At first
SACRED STONES. 89
living as an epiphyte on other trees, it soon acquires such
dimensions that it kills its supporter, and henceforward
must draw its nourishment from the soil. There are
fine specimens of the Baka on the Isthmus of Kadavu;
and on an islet belonging to Mr. Hennig the aerial
root of the Baka formed a cabin in which Mr. Pritchard,
myself, and all our boat’s crew took shelter during a
heavy tropical shower; and twenty persons might have
found room there. The crown of this tree was one hun-
dred and tifty-two feet in diameter, or four hundred and
fifty-six feet in circumference. The horizontal branches
and the large roots issuing from all parts of the stem,
and more sparingly from the branches, rendered this
tree a noble object, well calculated to inspire pleasure or
awe. The Rev. W. Moore lamented the destruction of
one of these fine trees near Rewa, committed by a sick
man in hopes that it might be pleasing to the Christian
God, and incline him to favour his convalescence. These
sacred groves and trees were not worshipped as gods,
but, as in the Odic religions of our ancestors, looked
upon as places where certain gods had taken up their
abode.
Sacred stones, to which the natives pay reverence,
exist in Fiji; for instance, near Vuna and Bau, as well
as in many other parts of Polynesia. Fully granting
their being the supposed abode of certain gods and
goddesses, as has been contended, we can only hope to
arrive at their real meaning and primary origin, by con-
sidering them in connection with the ideas associated
with or represented by other monoliths. I would par-
ticularly direct attention to their peculiar shape, of
90 A MISSION TO VITI.
which the missionaries Williams and Turner* have
published some good illustrations. Compared with cer-
tain remnants of Priapus worship, as found in Indian
temples, the ‘“‘ Museo segreto” of Naples, and, freed from
all obscenity, in the obelisks of Egypt, their nature be-
comes evident. More or less, these monoliths repre-
sented the generative principle and procreation ; and, if
the subject admitted of popular treatment, it would not
be difficult to show that the Polynesian stones, their
shape, the reverence paid to them, their decoration, and
the results expected from their worship, are quite in
accordance with a widely-spread superstition, which as-
sumed such offensive forms in ancient Rome, and found
vent in the noblest monuments of which the land of the
Pharaohs can boast. ‘Turner, after stating that he had
in his possession several smooth stones from the New
Hebrides, says that some of the Polynesian stone-gods
were supposed to cause fecundity in pigs, rain and sun-
shine. A stone at Mayo, according to, the Earl of
Roden, was carefully wrapped up in flannel, periodically
worshipped, and supplicated to send wrecks on the coast.
Two large stones, lying at the bottom of a moat, are
said to have given birth to Degei, the supreme god of
Fiji. In all instances an addition to objects already
existing was expected from these monoliths. There was
a stone near Bau, which, whenever a lady of rank at
the Fijian capital was confined, also gave birth to a little
stone. It argues nothing that these stony offsprings
were fraudulently placed there. The ideas floating in
* Williams’s ‘ Fiji and Fijians,’ p. 220, Turner’s ‘Nineteen Years in
Polynesia,’ p. 347.
MOSQUITOES. 91
the minds of the bulk of the people absolutely tended
towards the unbiassed conviction that some mysterious
connection existed between the large stone and the
Bauan ladies. Since the introduction of Christianity to
these districts, it has been found necessary to remove
the large stone, leaving its numerous posterity behind,
to get on as best it may.
During the rainy season, the mouth of the Rewa
river is notorious for myriads of mosquitoes. On some
evenings the hetacombs slain by incautious contact with
the flame, actually put the candles out. Mr. Moore once
contrived a room on the principle of a mosquito-curtain ;
but the contrivance was not found to answer, as few
persons could be induced to purchase freedom from irri-
tating bites by confinement for several hours of a hot
night in an insufficiently ventilated kind of cage, which,
from its very nature, could not be so large as to admit
of much moving about, or the introduction of lights for
reading or writing. Mosquitoes are objects to which
the attention of all new-comers is irresistibly directed.
Those of Somosomo never favoured us with a call until
after breakfast, and very obligingly withdrew about sun-
set, to let us have the evening to ourselves. In other
parts of the group the evening is their very time for
paying visits. The moment one of their monotonous
solos is heard, a tutti will immediately follow. The dif-
ference between the voices of the various species is al
most as great as that observable in those of men; and
a naturalist studying these insects as thoroughly as they
study him should either possess an ear musically trained
or else carry a fiddle, in order to determine the exact
92 A MISSION TO VITI.
note struck up. I am persuaded that every mosquito,
from the large sluggish one which annoyed us when
searching for Sir John Franklin in the Arctic Circle,
to the little swift one of the Equator, may be known
as readily by its peculiar note as by any artificial dia-
gnosis,—the Sydney one pre-eminently by its very deep
tone.
On the 2nd of July, about noon, we left Mataisuva,
and at 7 p.m. reached Naqara (the Cave), in the island
of Naigani, where Mr. Eggerstrom, a Swedish gentle-
man, had taken up his abode. He was just recovering
from a serious illness contracted by incautious contact
with the Kau karo, or Itchwood, a poisonous tree
(Oncocarpus Vitiensis, A. Gray = Rhus atrum, Forst.)
peculiar to Fiji and New Caledonia, the stem of which
he had been converting into a flag-staff. Mr. Eggerstrom
received us cordially, and had tea and supper prepared.
He also wished us to sleep under his hospitable roof;
but the mosquitoes were so very troublesome that we
could hardly finish our meal, and were obliged to beat
a hasty retreat to our boat, though our kind host assured
us that if we remained a little longer we should get
quite as much used to their bites as he was, and feel no
inconvenience. We spread the awning over our gig,
and made every preparation for sleeping. As it was
still early, Mr. Pritchard read, and I went again on shore,
to the native village, which I found, as I had been as-
sured, quite free from mosquitoes. The natives were very
friendly ; they showed me their canoes, and brought me
cocoa-nuts and sugar-cane to eat; I gave them a few
sticks of tobacco in return, and wanted them to dance;
FEUDS AT NADROGA. 93
but they informed me, through the interpreter, that
the missionaries desire them not to dance nor practise
any more their game of throwing canes, after the yams
have been planted. They said they should sing instead,
and forthwith commenced. I let them go on till they
came to a “ meke,” or song, in which they mimicked the
missionaries; I then stopped them by wishing them
“ good night.”
Most of our crew passed the night on shore, and Mr.
Pritchard and I slept in the consular gig, anchored close
to the shore. Early next morning we were awoke by
the arrival of a large canoe from Nadroga. The man in
charge came to ask the Consul’s advice about making
peace with the heathens who had for several months
made war upon Nadroga for becoming Christian. They
had only ten towns, six of which had been taken by the
heathens, and several inhabitants been baked and eaten.
The Nadroga people had only captured two towns, and
now feared they could not hold out much longer unless
Christian natives of other districts hastened to their as-
sistance. They were now going to Rewa and Ovalau, to
ask for such assistance, and had with them a lot of tor-
toiseshell, to be exchanged for muskets and powder. Mr.
Pritchard told them that he should visit them in about
a month, and then use his influence to restore peace.
I may as well add in this place, that he did so in August,
with Colonel Smythe, and that they conjointly sent a
messenger to the heathens, inviting their chiefs to an in-
terview. The messenger was received with blows, and
told it was fortunate that he had come by himself. If
two had been dispatched, one would have been sent back
94 A MISSION TO VITI.
to tell the tale; now, as only one had come, he should
merely be half killed, and might go home to say that
they neither cared for the Consul nor for Colonel
Smythe, and declined all interference on their part.
We went again on shore, as Mr. Eggerstrom had in-
vited us to breakfast and to inspect his establishment by
daylight. Mr. Eggerstrom had expended a great deal of
labour on his retreat, cut steps in the solid rocks, and
made a large basin for bathing, and seats near the spring
from which the water was supplied. He seemed to have
been anxious to render his new home as pretty as pos-
sible, and paid less regard to the requirements of the
crop he wished to grow. He complained that nothing
would flourish, and I told him that unless he sacrificed
more trees, his sweet potatoes, yams, and bananas, to
say nothing about European vegetables, would be, as
hitherto, a prey to snails, caterpillars, and insects, and
his house never free from mosquitoes. But he said he
loved the shade, and could not make up his mind to
do that.
Although the place was swarming with mosquitoes
the previous night, there was now not one to be seen.
The sky looked very rainy, and we hesitated whether to
stay or push on. We decided on adopting the latter
course, but had hardly been afloat more than ten mi-
nutes when the rain began to come down in such tor-
rents that our boat required constant baling. We
took shelter at Nukubalawu, in the house of an Ameri-
can, Mr. Work, who, like most of the old white settlers,
is better known in Fiji by his nickname, in this instance
“Moses.” He had a sawing-pit, which he worked with
NUKUBALAWU, TAGURU, NAVUA. 95
natives, one of whom had been with him for years.
Though he was moving across the bay, to take up his
residence on the little island inhabited by Mr. Egger-
strom, he made us very comfortable; and I took ad-
vantage to arrange my collection of plants, which had
seriously suffered from the heavy shower that drove us
to seek shelter in this place. The rain continued all
day, so that we were quite unable to stir.
Leaving Nukubalawu next morning, we passed a re-
markable rock on the shore of Viti Levu, which from its
peculiar shape and large dimensions Mr. Pritchard and
I named the “ Giant’s Thumb.” The rain continued, and
after an hour’s pulling and sailing, we were obliged to
land at Taguru, where we found three white men en-
gaged in sawing and building boats. As Taguru be-
longs to Kuruduadua’s dominions, we dispatched a mes-
senger to Navua, the chief’s residence on the coast, to
inform him that we would be with him as soon as the
weather permitted. ‘Towards sunset there was a lull in
the rain, and we at once resumed our way to the chief,
who was not yet under missionary influence, and about
whose cannibalism and despotic government we had
heard so much.
A pull of about two miles westwards brought us to
the Navua, one of the largest rivers in Viti Levu, and
not yet explored by any scientific man. There are se-
veral extensive deltas at its mouth, composed of rich
alluvial soil, and exceedingly well adapted for cotton.
From information gathered, I was led to conclude that
the sago-palm was a member of the Fijian flora. My
inquiries commenced in the eastern part of the group,
96 A MISSION TO VITI.
and I was always directed westward, and assured at
every place that I should find the object of my search a
few miles further on; but that not proving the case, I
began to look upon it as a mere phantom, when at last,
after a search of several hundred miles, whole groves
of fine sago-palms (Sagus Vitiensis, Herm. Wendl.)
greeted me on the banks of the Navua river. This is
an interesting discovery ; botanically, because no sago-
palm had ever been found so far south ; philologically,
because the plant is here termed Soga, calling to mind
the names of Sagu, or Sago, by which it is known in
other districts peopled by the Papuan race; and com-
mercially, because it adds an important article to the
export list of these islands. The Fijians made no use
of the farinaceous pith the Soga contains, though they
are familiar with converting that of the Cycas circinalis
of the district into cakes, eaten by the chiefs.
97
CHAPTER VI.
STAY AT NAVUA.—CHIEF KURUDUADUA’S HOUSEHOLD.—“‘ HARRY THE JEW.”
—A PRINCE AS HE WAS BORN.—MASSACRE PREVENTED.—KURUDUADUA’S
CHARACTER.—STATEMENT OF MR. HEEKES RESPECTING THE NAMUKA
OUTRAGE.—TOWN AND BURES OF NAVUA.—TATOOING.—RETURN TO LADO,
WE were soon at Navua, a town some three miles up
the river, and the residence of Kuruduadua, the great
chief of this district. The messenger dispatched from
our last halting-place having announced our visit, we
found the chieftain seated in his large house, sur-
rounded by councillors and attendants, awaiting his
guests. As he and his territory are little known to the
whites, our arrival created some sensation. ‘The cere-
mony of presentation is novel. On entering the house,
Charles Wise, our interpreter and guide, as already
schooled, addressed the chief to the effect that the
Consul had come to introduce a chief from England,
who had been sent to explore the country; and that
we purposed doing ourselves the honour of being his
guests for several days. After a few minutes’ silence,
the chief orator replied, in the name of Kuruduadua
(it would have been against Fijian etiquette for the
latter to address us personally at the first formal visit),
that the strauger chief and the Consul were welcome,
H
98 A MISSION TO VITI.
for their presence conferred a distinguished honour on
Navua, and the neighbouring tribes should know the
fact as soon as the great drum could send forth its roll-
ing peals. As he concluded, all the men in the house
clapped their hands, and exclaimed, “ Mana, mana,
mana!” At the same instant the great drum, or lali,
was beaten lustily, and our presence in Navua was he-
ralded throughout the district.
The chief’s eyes glistened, and a proud smile of ex-
ultation gleamed over his face as we threw ourselves
at full length on the clean mats spread for us. Our
loquacious interpreter here began to describe a huge
iron pot that was near the door, and to tell how wick-
edly it had been appropriated to boil the carcases of
slaughtered men instead of béche-de-mer ; thus confirm-
ing the rumour which Macdonald had told in the Geo-
graphical Society’s Journal. A rather unpleasant feeling
stole over us, and we thought of friends and homes
far away. Our peace of mind, however, was soon re-
stored, when the chief proposed that we should join him
in a bowl of kava, a beverage prepared from the root
of the South Sea pepper, by being masticated by young
men, and tasting like soapsuds, jalap, and magnesia!
A baked pig and some half-dozen baskets of yams were
next brought in by women, headed by the chief's
favourite wife, all crawling on their hands and knees.
Hungry as we were, the story of the big pot made us
rather revolt from this frugal meal; but ascertaining
that it was a real pig we beheld before us, we dined.
It is a curious fact, that Fijian custom does not permit
the host to partake of the meal which he provides for
CHIEF KURUDUADTA. 99
his guests; and the chief eyed us askance as we ate.
About this time a carronade, that guarded the entrance
to the house, was discharged—emphatically to demon-
strate the chief's delight. Kara. or ~yaqona,” as it
is called in Fiji, was masticated and drunk every half-
hour. We observed that the string by which the bowl
is suspended when not in use was always thrown towards
the chief. The object of this is to distinguish the
“great man,” for if any one incautiously walked upright
in his presence, the club is his fate.
Kuruduadua has ten wives, and as he himself does
not exactly know the number of his children, we were
left ignorant on that point. The great drums were
beaten every hour of the night, in honour of the guests,
but much to our annoyance, for they kept us awake
some time after we retired. Our bed was made of se-
veral layers of mats, and over us was a large mosquito
screen, about twenty fect long, made of the bark of the
paper mulberry. -\s many as eight or ten natives some-
times sleep together under one of these screens. Before
retiring, the Consul presented various articles, as knives,
axes, prints, etc., to the chief; and the usual compli-
mentary speeches, expressive of mutual confidence and
goodwill, ensued.
On the following morning “Harry the Jew” pre-
sented himself—the only Englishman who has lived
for any length of time in the wild and unknown regions
of the interior, and has managed to throw a halo of
mystery around himself. His real name is John Hum-
phrey Danford, and he has been for so many years
living with Kuruduadua and his family, cut off from all
H 2
100 A MISSION TO VITI.
intercourse with civilization, that he seemed to have
lost his reckoning, and was not quite sure whether he
had been sixteen, eighteen, or twenty years in the is-
lands. His story is full of adventure. Born in Lon-
don, he was early apprenticed, first to one then to ano-
ther trade, but his employers being all men with whom
he “could not agree,” he left them in disgust, and
took to the sea. This brought him to the South Pa-
cific, where he discovered that the captains he had to
deal with were disagreeable men ; and, after exchanging
from vessel to vessel, he finally ran away at Tongatabu:
There, after twelve months’ residence, amid many priva-
tions, partly caused by a great hurricane and its usual
successor, a general famine, he perceived the Tonguese
too were disagreeable people, and at once took passage
in a canoe for Fiji. Arriving in this group in distress
from heavy weather, the canoe was seized at the island
of Kadavu, and the crew condemned to be baked in the
oven—thus finding the Kadavu people more disagree-
able even than the Tonguese. By strategy, however,
he succeeded in making his escape to Rewa, where he
remained some time with other white men. To one,
Charles Pickering, a celebrity of Fiji and the hero of
some capital anecdotes, he sold a pinchbeck watch that
only went when carried. Whence he got this precious
article, he says it is unnecessary to tell; enough for the
history, that as soon as he received the price thereof
from Pickering, he jumped into a boat and started off
for some distant part of the islands, condemning the
white men as a disagreeable set of fellows. In his
wanderings he met one “Flash Bob,” for whom he
HISTORY OF “HARRY THE JEW.” 101
acted as agent in the selection and purchase of a lady-
love from a native chief. This brought him once more
in contact with the disagreeable whites. He now com-
menced a béche-de-mer establishment, in conjunction with
his friend Pickering, who had given him the nickname
of “ Harry the Jew,” in consequence of the watch trans-
action. After some months in his new business, a quar-
rel arises about the purchase of Flash Bob’s wife; the
drying-house of the establishment is burnt down by a
party of natives; Pickering, enraged that his property
has been destroyed, takes everything away, leaving poor
Danford once more penniless, shirtless, and friendless, on
the beach. His nickname, translated into Fijian, has
begun to work mischief amongst the newly-converted
natives, and he is denied hospitalities the heathens
would not refuse, because he “belongs to a people who
have killed Christ.” ‘The brother of Chief Kurudua-
dua, hearing of his forlorn condition, sends him an offer
to reside at Namosi, his mountain residence, which offer
is hesitatingly accepted. His heart almost fails him as
he toils his way into the very midst of a nation of canni-
bals. But iron necessity urges him on. Tired and
footsore, almost in an absolute state of nudity, he
reaches the town. Messengers meet him and carry him
on their shoulders. The chief then gives him wives,
—how many we shall not say,—a yam plantation, two
gardens, houses, and dispatches bales of native cloth
to the coast, to be exchanged for European dresses for
him. He is also raised to the dignity of a “brother,”
and allotted slaves to attend upon him. Our hero—
happy man!—now, for the first time in his life, finds
102 A MISSION TO VITI.
agreeable companions in the chief and his people. In
return for the dignities heaped upon him, Harry was to
repair the muskets of the tribe, and to tell the chief
stories about the white men and their country. Having
for about a week been an errand-boy to a London
apothecary, he was able to dispense pills to the sick,
and thus to assume another important stand in his new
life. Years had rolled on without his seeing any
white faces, when one day native messengers arrived
from the coast, stating that they had been sent by a
foreigner, who wished to have an interview with him,
and whom they described as wearing a blue coat all
covered with looking-glasses. Harry had seen many
extraordinary sights, but a man thus attired excited his
curiosity, and he acceded to the request. To his sur-
prise, he found the late Mr. Williams, United States
Consul, whose brass buttons had been mistaken for
looking-glasses. Mr. Williams had heard of the exist-
ence of some copper mines in the interior, and was de-
sirous of purchasing them. Through Harry’s interven-
tion, that object was accomplished, and the mines passed
into Mr. Williams’s possession, but they have not as yet
been worked, nor indeed been examined by any scien-
tific man. Dr. Macdonald and Mr. 8. Waterhouse paid a
visit to Namosi when they ascended the Rewa river; and
Harry, who had long ere that sown all his wild oats,
and found one wife quite as much as a sensible man
could manage, begged the Rev. Samuel Waterhouse to
christen his natural children. But he met with a re-
fusal, on the ground of his not being married. “Then
pray marry me,” was the next demand. “Impossible,”
A PRINCE AS HE WAS BORN. 103
replied the missionary, “ your bride is not a Christian.”
Danford felt this refusal very deeply. Many a long
year had he waited to free himself from the reproach of
not living in matrimony, and when at last a fair chance
seemed to present itself, he met with disappointment.
The Wesleyans have shown a strict adherence to a
similar policy, and they may be right from their point
of view; but in consequence many of the whites have
been obliged to ask the Catholic priests to discharge
those duties which their Protestant brethren refused.
The Catholic priests, asking few questions, have invari-
ably christened such children, and, remembering the
full significance of the formula, that in marrying we take
each other “ for better, for worse,” united in matrimony
all loving couples presenting themselves for the purpose.
We were struck with the fact, that all the young
lads were ina state of absolute nudity ; and, on inquiry,
learned that preparations were being made to celebrate.
the introduction of Kuruduadua’s eldest son into man-
hood; and that, until then, neither the young chieftain
nor his playmates could assume the scanty clothing pe-
culiar to the Fijians. Suvana, a rebellious town, consist-
ing of about five hundred people, was destined to be
sacrificed on the occasion. When the preparations for
the feast were concluded, the day for the ceremony ap-
pointed, Kuruduadua and his warriors were to make a
rush upon the town, and club the inhabitants indis-
criminately. The bodies were to be piled into one
heap, and on the top of all a living slave would lie on
his back. The young chief would then mount the
horrid scaffold, and scanding upright on the chest of
104 A MISSION TO VITL
the slave, and holding in his uplifted hands an immense
club or gun, the priests invoke their gods, and commit
the future warrior to their especial protection, praying
he may kill all the enemies of the tribe, and never
be beaten in battle; a cheer and a shout from the as-
sembled multitude concluding the prayer. Two uncles
of the boy were then to ascend the human pile, and to
invest him with the malo, or girdle of snow-white tapa ;
the multitude again calling on their deities to make
him a great conqueror, and a terror to all who breathe
enmity to Navua. The malo for the occasion would be
perhaps two hundred yards long, and six or eight inches
wide. When wound round the body, the lad would
hardly be perceivable, and no one but an uncle can
divest him of it.
We proposed to the chief that we should be allowed
to invest his son with the malo, which he at first re-
fused, but to which he consented after deliberation
with his people. At the appointed hour, the multitude
collected in the great strangers’ house, or dure ni sa.
The lad stood upright in the midst of the assembly,
guiltless of clothing, and holding a gun over his head.
The Consul and I approached, and in due form wrapped
him up in thirty yards of Manchester print, the priest
and people chanting songs, and invoking the protec-
tion of their gods. NOUNS! SSO INO). SHO) amet Males
DANFORD. 159
cenas and croton shrubs gave quite a finish to the
place. Danford evidently enjoyed our surprise at find-
ing everything so clean and comfortable, and new mats
and even calico curtains. It was the best kept native-
built house I had visited in Fiji. Afterwards, when
having seen more of us, he told us how much annoyed
he had been by certain remarks the whites on the coast
had made to his disadvantage. Those people, who
should be nameless, had insulted him by asking him
point-blank how cannibal food tasted, and how he could
think of forsaking the Christian religion and assisting
in heathen rites. He had nothing to oppose of these
accusations but silent contempt, and his well-fingered
Bible was.a good proof of his real disposition. In his
own way he had evidently done a great deal of good;
was the direct means of abolishing many abominable
practices; and without this pioneer we should never
have been able to reach this little-known region of the
world. He was very fond of reading, and had accumu-
lated a good many books, mostly presents from consuls,
missionaries, or captains and officers of ships. I in-
creased it by a copy of Shakspeare, after which he had
a hankering. The natives often came to look at his
picture books, and the ‘ Ilustrated London News’ was a
source of endless delight to them.
160
CHAPTER X.
POPULAR IDEAS RESPECTING THE INTERIOR OF VITI LEVU.—MALACHITE
AND ANTIMONY.—ASCENT OF VOMA PEAK.—VISIT TO A HEATHEN
TEMPLE.—‘‘ SPIRIT FOWLS.”—OFFICIAL MEETING WITH KUBUDUADUA
AND HIS SUBJECTS.—A REBELLION TO BE SUPPRESSED.—PRESENTATION
OF FOOD.—‘ THE OLDEST INHABITANTS.”’—A COURT-FOOL AND HIS
TRICKS.— MR. WATERHOUSE PREACHING.— DEPARTURE OF COLONEL
SMYTHE, AND MESSRS. PRITCHARD AND WATERHOUSE, FOR NAGROGA.
To the north of Namosi there is a good deal of unex-
plored country, and we tried hard to get some informa-
tion about its general features. A popular belief, cur-
rent amongst the white settlers in Fiji, affirms that there
is a large table-land and an inland lake in Viti Levu.
Nothing could be learnt of this table-land, but the na-
tives had heard of a lake on which canoes were. Not
far from Namosi, still in sight of the town, exists a
mountain, which the late Mr. Williams, American Con-
sul for Fiji; bought for its rich veins of copper ore.
After Mr. Williams’s death a number of specimens from
this mountain were found in his possession, of which
his executor gave me several. ‘They proved to be ma-
lachite, closely resembling the Australasian, and next to
that of the Ural, considered the best. Nothing has as
yet been done to work these mines. The natives also
informed us of the existence of ore of antimony about
MALACHITE AND ANTIMONY. 161
ten miles from Namosi, and at a place called Umbi,
where it is said to occur in large veins in the side of a
hill. Macdonald and S. Waterhouse also heard of and
saw quantities brought down by the natives in bamboos,
and concluded that it must be plentiful. The black
sand so frequently found on the banks of the Rewa
river, and attracted by a magnet, has also been washed
down from these mountains. Danford at one time fancied
he had discovered gold in the neighbourhood, and in
1856 he took the ‘ Herald’s’ officers to the Wai ni Ura.
The rocks were spangled with iron pyrites, which made
their appearance wherever the surface was broken: gold
was nowhere to be seen.
Directly on our arrival we made preparations for as-
cending Voma, the highest peak in Viti Levu, perhaps
in the whole Fijis, and never trodden by the foot of
white man. The natives represented to us the impos-
sibility of getting to the summit, but we told them that
we must at least make the attempt. To this proposal
they agreed, and on the morning of the 24th of August
we commenced our task, guided by Natove, a famous
warrior and petty chief, who proved an excellent hand
in cutting openings through the forest when we got
higher up.
On leaving Namosi our path led through numerous
. taro, banana, and yam plantations, and close to an altar
made of sticks and native cloth, on which food for the
spirits of the dead was placed: some of the yams were
actually sprouting again. The mass of Fijians will have
it that these offerings are consumed by the spirits of
their departed friends and relations, supposed to have
M
162 A MISSION TO VITI.
great supernatural influence; but if not eaten by ani-
mals, the food is often stolen by the more enlightened
class of their own countrymen, and even some foreigners
occasionally do not disdain to help themselves freely.
The ascent of Voma was steep, and made us very
warm indeed. Our native attendants found it equally
so, though not encumbered with any clothing like our-
selves; and to cool themselves they thought it no addi-
tional exertion to climb up a tree and catch the breeze.
In former times, there had been a town some consider-
able distance up the mountain, traces of which were
still visible ; and hence, though there was a thick wood,
the actual virgin forest did not commence until we had
attained the height of about 2500 feet above the sea.
When entering that region we found the trees altogether
different from those of the lowlands, and densely covered
with mosses, lichens, and deep orange-colowred orchids
(Dendrobium Mohlianum, Rchb. fil.). Some of the ferns
were of antediluvian dimensions. A species of Cinna-
momum, producing a superior kind of cassia-bark, and
used by the natives for scenting cocoa-nut oil, and as a
powerful sudorific, was met with in considerable quan-
tities. The absence of all large animals, and the limited
number of birds, impart an air of solemnity to these
upland forests. Not a sound is heard: all is silence
—repose !
We had to pass over some awkward places, and to
climb several almost perpendicular rocks, rendered slip-
pery by water trickling down. However, at half-past ten,
two hours and a half after starting, Colonel Smythe, Mr.
Pritchard and myself, reached the summit: Danford
ASCENT OF VOMA PEAK. 163
having stopped half-way, and Mr. Waterhouse remained
behind at Namosi to scatter a little seed of truth amongst
the numerous heathens pouring into the town for to-
morrow’s grand meeting.*
Immediately trees were cut down, and compass bear-
ings taken of all prominent parts, by which means an
important step was made to reform the geography of
Viti Levu.t
TEMPLES. 393
terraced mounds also in Eastern Polynesia, with which
Fiji and all other groups of the South Sea share the
principal features of religious belief.
== TAR zen (NE =
TAINO
AY }\\\\
FIJIAN TEMPLE (BURE KALOU).
There is in most of them a shrine, where the god is
supposed to descend when holding communication with
the priests, and there is also a long piece of native cloth
394 A MISSION TO VITI.
hung at one end of the building, and from the very ceil-
ing, which is also connected with the arrival and depar-
ture of the god invoked. The revelations, however, are
made by means of the spirit of the god entering the body
of the priest, who, having become possessed, begins to
tremble most violently, and in this excited state utters
disjointed sentences—supposed to be the revelations
which the god wishes to make by the mouth of his ser-
vant. It is the oracle at Delphi over again. Mankind
will be deceived, whether by a Fijian priest, a Grecian
Pythia, or an American spirit-rapper.
The conceptions which the Fijians have of the origin
of their islands is, that they were made and peopled by
Degei. This god, when walking along the beaches, wore
long trains of native cloth, like those worn by great chiefs
at the present day ; and whenever he allowed them to
drag the ground, the beach, becoming free from vege-
tation, showed the white sand; whenever he took them
up, and cast them over his shoulder, the trees and
shrubs remained undisturbed.* What Humboldt pointed
out as one of the characteristics of all religions is not
wanting in that of Fiji. There is a tradition of a flood.
Degei was roused every morning by the cooing of a
monstrous bird, called “ Turukawa,” who performed his
duty well until two youths, grandsons of the god, acci-
dentally killed it with bow and arrow, and, in order to
conceal their deed, buried it. Degei, accustomed to be-
ing roused at sunrise by his favourite bird, was greatly
annoyed on finding it had disappeared, and he at once
dispatched his messenger, Uto, all over the island in
* Williams (‘ Fiji and the Fijians,’ p. 250) makes Roko Mouta, another
god, take this walk.
TRADITION OF A FLOOD. 395
search of it; but all endeavours to discover any traces
of the lost one proved unsuccessful. The messenger de-
clared that it could nowhere be found. Degei had a
fresh search instituted, which led to the discovery 6f the
body of the dead bird, and that of the deed which had
deprived him of life. The two youths, fearing Degei’s
anger, fled to the mountains and there took refuge with
a powerful tribe of carpenters, who willingly agreed to
build a fence strong enough to keep Degei and his mes-
sengers at bay. They little knew the power they had
attempted to balk. Degei, finding the taking of the
fence by storm impossible, caused violent rains to fall,
and the waters rose to such a height that at last they
reached the place where the two youths and their abet-
tors had fortified themselves. To save themselves from
drowning they jumped into large bowls that happened
to be at hand, and in these they were scattered in vari-
ous directions. When the waters subsided, some landed
at Suva, some at Navua and Bega; and it is from them
that the present race of carpenters and canoe-builders
claim to be descended.*
* The late Rev. J. Hunt has published a version of this story, which he
himself terms as being between an imitation and a translation of the original.
I quote a few verses. It begins with one of the boys trying his arrow :—
«Tl try, I mean no harm, I’ll only try,’
Pointing his arrow as he fix’d his eye:
His brother strikes his hand, the arrow flies,
And prostrate at their feet old Turukawa lies.
“ Stretch’d on the fatal ground, upon his back,
They sce the deadly arrow’s fatal track ;'
His entrails all turn out, his flowing blood
Stains the white sand, and dyes the ocean flood.
«This is no common bird,’ one faintly said,
‘His glaring eyes retain their crimson red;
396 A MISSION TO VITI.
Those who make a philosophical digest of such myths
as these, will at once perceive the points of resemblance
it exhibits with the Mosaic narrative:—The anger of
the supreme god has been roused by certain transgres-
His sacred legs, with many a cowry bound,
Crash’d as the monster fell upon the ground.
““« My brother, can it be? is this the bird
Whose office long has been to wake the god
Whose serpent form lies coil’d in yonder cave,
Boasting the dreaded power to kill or save ?’
“ They strip him of his coat, by Nature given,
And, lo, his feathers rise in clouds to heaven,
Fly o’er the mountains on the gentle breeze,
Cover the mystic grove of sacred trees.
“A grave, at once convenient and secure,
They find beneath the threshold of the door;
They bury him with vows of self-defence,
Should Degei’s anger visit their offence.
«The god lies sleeping, nor has power to wake;
He turns himself, and rocks and mountains quake ;
When gloomy night has laid aside his pall,
He lists intent for Turwkawa’s call.
“Three suns have risen, but no call he hears ;
His heart now beats with boding god-like fears ;
The god, exhausted with suspense so sore,
Sends Uto his dominions to explore.
“ «Go search my favourite bird, my precious store ;
Oh, shall I never hear his cooing more?
Tf distance weary, or the sun shall burn,
Refreshing draughts shall wait thy glad return.
“ «Go search ‘mong tow’ring heights, mong vales beneath,
’Mong gloomy caverns, and the cloud-capp’d cliffs ;
There dwell the murderers, so report declares ;
Vengeance shall now absorb our god-like cares.’”
The result was, that Degei made war on the two youths, but without
effect ; he then caused a flood of water, with which they were drifted to
the Rewa district.—The mystic grove of sacred trees referred to in verse
5, are the Balawas (screw-pines) at the top of Degei’s mountain, which
CREATION AND DESTRUCTION OF THE WORLD. 397
sions, as a punishment for which a flood rises; and it is
only by embarking—not in ordinary vessels—that cer-
tain people save their lives, afterwards to become the
progenitors of a powerful race. But there is one essen-
tial difference. Whilst Noah and his family were saved
Deo volente, the Fijian transgressors effected their escape
notwithstanding Degei was resolved upon their destruc-
tion. Williams adds, that in all, eight persons were
saved, and that two tribes of people became extinct,
one of them distinguished by a tail like that of a dog.*
As the Fijians believe in the creation, so they be-
lieve in the ultimate destruction, of the world. This
appears incidentally from their tradition of the Daiga,
a species of Amorphophallus, the foliage of which con-
sists of a single leaf, supported on a stalk two to four
feet long, and spreading out somewhat like an um-
brella. In the cosmogony of the Samoans, the office of
having, by means of its single foliage, pushed up the
heavens when they emerged from chaos, is assigned to
this plant, and the Fijians recommend it as a safe place
of refuge when the end of the world approaches, the
Daiga being a “vasu” to heaven (Vasu ki lagi: see
p. 304).
The immortality of the soul, and a ‘life hereafter, is
are sacred. The spirits of the dead are said to throw a whale’s tooth at
these trees, that their wives may be strangled. When a shock of an
earthquake is felt, Degei is turning himself. This, and a few other little
things, are not in the original.
* The existence of savage tribes of people with a tail, somewhere in
Africa, has as a popular belief been frequently alluded to in the newspapers.
Dr. Kieser, the President of the Imperial Academy of Germany, has made
numerous inquiries about them; and when Heuglin set out in search of
Edward Vogel, his attention was particularly directed to this singular topic.
398 A MISSION TO VITI.
one of the canons of Fijian belief. It is from this con-
viction that, on the death of a man, be he chief or com-
moner, all his wives are strangled, so that he may not
have to go alone on his journey or arrive at the future
abode of bliss without anybody near and dear to him.
Only in the christianized districts has this cruel custom
been abolished. The Tonguese restricted the posses-
sion of a soul to chiefs and gentry, but the Fijians go
further, allowing it not only to all mankind, but to
animals, plants, and even houses, canoes, and all me-
chanical contrivances. The ultimate destination of the
soul is Bulu, identical with the Tonguese Bolotu, and
the general starting-place (Cibicibi) is supposed to be at
Naicobocobo (= Naithombothombo), the extreme west-
ern or lee side of Vanua Levu, to which pilgrimages
are occasionally made. It is not a little singular that
the Fijians agree with the Tahitians, Samoans, Ton-
guese, and Maoris, in fixing this starting-place inva-
riably on that side of their respective countries. The
ancient Egyptians, it will be remembered, coincided
with them in supposing their souls to depart westward.*
But I must not accumulate coincidences. Those theory-
spinners who are always on the look-out for traces of
the lost tribes, and similar losses that give them un-
easiness, might propound an hypothesis purporting to
account for the westward movement common to the
souls of the ancient Egyptians and the modern Poly-
nesians, and, taking a hint from the incidental observa-
tion that Fijian temples have somewhat the shape of
* In Tahiti this place is called Fareaitu, in Samoa Fafa; the Maoris
start from Cape Maria Van Diemen.
LIFE HEREAFTER. 399
pyramids, and that “Jali” in Egyptian means ‘to re-
joice,’ and that “lali” in Fijian is the name of a drum-
beater when people do rejoice, advance conclusions of
a startling description.
About tive miles east of Naicobocobo there is a soli-
tary barren hill on the top of which grows a sacred
screw-pine, which the soul of a married man must hit
with the spirit of the whale’s tooth,—remember, in
Fiji all things have souls!—if he wishes to make sure
of his wives being strangled to follow him to his future
abode. A similar screw-pine stood on the east end of
Vanua Levu, and was cut down by Chief Mara (p. 229) ;
and I may further add that an identical belief attaches
to some on the top of Degei’s mountain: so that super-
stition seems to have placed these trees very conveniently
within the reach of all who desired to avail themselves
of their power.
It is by no means clear where Bulu, the ultimate
abode of bliss, is situated, and whether it is, as in the
Tonguese mythology, a distant island; but the fact that
it cannot be reached except in a canoe shows that it is
separated from this world by water, across which the
souls have to be ferried by the Charon of Fiji. Before
embarking they have to do battle with Samuyalo, the
killer of souls, informed of their approach by the cries
of a parroquet ; should they conquer, they are allowed to
pass on towards the judgment-seat of Degei, but if they
should be wounded or defeated, they have to wander
amongst the mountains. Again, if to any questions they
should return untrue answers, Samuyalo gives the lie
direct and fells them to the ground. Bachelors have a
still greater difficulty to encounter, and stand scarcely
400 A MISSION TO VITI.
any chance whatever of getting to Bulu. First they have
to meet the spirit of a great woman, and, having eluded
her fatal grasp, face a still more powerful foe. Naga-
naga, a bitter hater of all unmarried men, is on the
look-out for them, and if he catches them, dashes them
to pieces ona large black stone.
Some of the traditions speak of Bulu as Lagi (=
Langi), the sky, the heavens; others again as being
under the water: all however assert that in this future
abode there are several districts. The names of Lagi
tua dua, Lagi tua rua, and Lagi tua tolu, the first, the
second, and the third heavens, are given to them by one
set of traditions, and that of Murimuria and Burotu by
the others. Murimuria seems to be a district of infe-
rior happiness, where punishments and rewards are
awarded. Burotu is the Fijian Elysium, where all that
the natives most desire, value, and enjoy, is abundant.
The manly nature of the Fijian is nowhere better dis-
played than in the conception of his future abode. He
does not expect to exist there in indolent ease, reclining
on soft couches, and sipping nectar handed by lovely
houris, but hopes to resume all the out-door exercises
to which he has been habituated during his stay on
earth. Food will be plentiful, it is true, but there will
be lots of canoes, plenty of sailing, fishing, and sporting
—-plenty of action. In fact, he hopes to lead very much
the same life as he does here, and his admiration for
fine, well developed people will be gratified ; for, if ac-
counts may be trusted, all will be larger than they were
on earth. There does not seem to be any separation
between the abodes of the good and the wicked, nothing
that corresponds to our heaven and hell, no fire and
PROPS OF SUPERSTITION. 401
brimstone. Punishment is evidently inflicted upon
evil-doers in the same locality where the good enjoy
their fair rewards. Women, not tatooed, are chased
by their own sex, allowed no repose, scraped up with
shells and made into bread for the gods. Men who
have not slain any enemy are compelled to beat dirt
with their club,—the most degrading punishment the
native mind can conceive,—because they used their club
to so little purpose. Others are laid flat on their faces
and converted into taro-beds,
In order to uphold the whole fabric of heathen
superstition, the priests had recourse to the same
means which all religions have had in dealing with
doubting minds. Punishment was sure to overtake
the sceptic, let his station in life be what it might.
What could be more terrible than that which was in-
flicted upon Koroika? He, a chief high in rank at
Bau, made bold to doubt the existence of the god
Ratu mai Bulu ; and, as the god was then enshrined in a
serpent of a neighbouring cave, he determined to put
the question to the test. Embarking in a canoe with
a cargo of fish, he steered for the very spot where the
god was reported to be. On arriving, a serpent issued
from the cave ; and the chief asked, “ Please, good Sir,
are you the god Ratu mai Bulu?” “ No, I am not,” was
the reply; “I am his son.” The chief made him a
present of fish, and requested an interview with his
father. Presently another serpent appeared, but that
proved to be the grandson, and the same present and
request was made to him as had been made to the son,
At length there issued a serpent, so large, so noble and
2D
402 A MISSION TO VITI.
commanding, as to leave little doubt in the mind of the
chief that the god himself was now before him. Fish
was presented to him; and just as the god was retiring
with it, Koroika hit him with an arrow, and then re-
treated in all possible haste. But the voice of the god
followed him, exclaiming, “ Nought but serpents !—
nought but serpents!” Arrived at home, and scarcely
recovered from his state of agitation, he ordered dinner
to be brought. The cover was removed from the pot,
when, oh! horror, it was full of serpents! The chief
seized a jug of water, saying, “At any rate, I will drink ;”
but, instead of the limpid fluid, he poured out crawling
serpents. Unable to eat or drink, he sought comfort in
sleep. He unrolled his mat, and was in the act of lying
down upon it, when innumerable serpents appeared.
Mad with excitement, he rushes out of doors, and pass-
ing a temple, hears, to his dismay, a priest revealing
that the god has been wounded by the hand of a citizen,
and that punishment will overtake the city. There is
now no escape but to make a suitable atonement for the
terrible offence committed. He returns home, collects
all the valuables he can lay his hands on, presents them
to the god, is pardoned, and his name handed down to
unborn generations as a sceptic, and a fit example of
the danger to which all men of his disposition expose
themselves.*
A different but equally severe punishment awaited
unbelievers in Bulu. One day, two’ young men: paint
and oil themselves, and put on a new piece of native
cloth (just as the dead are prepared for the grave), and
= * Compare Waterhouse, ‘ Vah-ta-ah,’ p. 46.
FATE OF SCEPTICS. 403
approach Naicobocobo. One calls, “ Please, Sir, we want
a canoe to take us to Bulu.” An invisible hand places
a canoe, built of the timber of the breadfruit tree,
within their reach. “Oh, Sir,” said the spokesman, ‘“‘ we
are not slaves; we want to go to Bulu like chiefs.”
The canoe is withdrawn, and its place supplied with
one built of ironwood. No sooner is it near them, than
the sceptics throw their spears at it, and exclaim, with
a derisive laugh, “ Oh, we are not going to die just yet.”
A voice was heard, “ Young men, unbelievers, you have
called for two canoes: they have not returned empty ;
both have conveyed your own relatives. There is death
in the houses of both of you.” Thoroughly alarmed,
they hurry home. The sounds of wailing are heard as
they near their town. Both their mothers are dead.
But I must conclude, for fear that I may be served as
Dr. Brower, the American Consul in Fiji, served a man
residing on his estate at Wakaya, who nightly would
persist in attracting all the boys of the neighbourhood
by telling stories, and inflaming their youthful imagina-
tion to such an extent, that not one of them would stir
abroad for fear of meeting some of the mighty person-
ages to whom he had been introduced. Dr. Brower,
not liking the whole troop to sleep on his premises,
hit upon the expedient of requesting the story-teller
to accompany every one of those he had frightened to
his respective home, and, as the youthful listeners live
in every direction of the compass, it takes him a good
time to comply with the request; still, it does not
prevent him from again and again indulging in his
old weakness of telling fairy and ghost stories. °
2D 2
404
CHAPTER XX.
HISTORICAL REMARKS ON FIJI.—DISCOVERY OF THE ISLANDS.—SANDAL-
WOOD TRADERS.—EARLY WHITE SETTLERS.—MISSIONARIES.—FOREIGN-
ERS AT PRESENT RESIDING IN THE GROUP.—MY DEPARTURE FROM FIJI
IN THE ‘STAGHOUND. —TERRIFIC STORM OFF LORD HOWE’S ISLAND.—
ARRIVAL IN SYDNEY.—RETURN TO ENGLAND.—CONCLUSION.
Berore bidding farewell to the islands, I must say a few
words about their history as connected with the white
race. In the year 1643, Abel Jansen Tasman, when ex-
ploring the South Seas, discovered, between longitudes
19° 50’ E. and 180° 8’ W., a group of islands which he
named “ Prince William’s Island,” and which the inhabi-
tants collectively term “Viti,” and the Tonguese, who can-
not pronounce the v, as well as other nations who have
not this excuse, erroneously designate as “ Fiji,” spelt in
a variety of ways. Although nearly two centuries have
elapsed since the event, this archipelago of more than
two hundred islands was only nominally known until
visited by D’Urville and Wilkes; Captain Cook, who
merely sighted Vatoa or Turtle Island, Captain Bligh,
who twice passed through parts of this group, and
Captain Wilson, of the ‘ Duff, whose vessel was nearly
lost on the reef off Taviuni, having scarcely added
any save secondhand information to our stock of know-
ledge.
Pa
HISTORICAL REMARKS. 405
Towards the close of the eighteenth and the begin-
ning of the present century, Viti began to be visited by
vessels from the East Indies in search of sandalwood
and béche-de-mer, or Trepang, for the Chinese market.
At that time the aborigines were regarded as ferocious
savages, and great caution was exercised by the traders
in dealing with them. The vessels were well armed, and
none of the crew ventured on shore until chiefs of high
rank had been sent on board as hostages, only to be given
up after all business transactions had been concluded,
and the loaded vessels were far enough at sea to be safe
from surprise or any sudden attack. Some of these vessels
were wrecked, on board of others mutinies occurred, and
the crew took up its residence on shore; again, between
some of the traders differences arose, which induced the
natives to attack the foreign vessels, and kill the whole
or portion of their crew. These were the materials
which probably formed the first white immigration. In
1860, there was at Cakaudrove an old Manila man,
named Jetro, who had been a boy on board a sandal-
wood ship, and who gave me a detailed account of the
murder of the captain by the crew, the goods being
given up to the king of Bau because no one was able
to navigate the ship, which had to be abandoned, and
it being thought best to purchase the goodwill of a
powerful chief in order that the mutineers might have a
protector. Jetro could give no clue to the date of this
event, except that it took place shortly after Charles
Savage had died, which would make it about the year
1814.
Charles Savage is said to have been a Swede by birth.
406 A MISSION TO VITI.
T. Williams* thought him to have been one of a number
of convicts who in 1804 effected their escape from New
South Wales; but, according to more authentic informa-
tion,t he was an honest sailor belonging to the American
brig ‘ Eliza,’ wrecked in Fiji in 1808, and of which Dil-
lon was mate. He seems to have possessed some redeem-
ing qualities, was acknowledged as a head-man by the
companions of his own race, and acquired great ascen-
dency at Bau, the capital of the group. Up to this time
the natives seem to have solely depended upon clubs,
spears, and slings, for success in intertribal wars. The
foreigners who had now come amongst them taught
them the use of fire-arms, rendering the teachers highly
welcome allies to the states then struggling for supre-
macy in the group. Bau and Rewa received them with
open arms, and in return for their alliance gratified all
their whims and demands, of whatever nature they might
happen to be. From the ascendency thus acquired, it
would have seemed that the absolute government of the
whole Fijis lay within their grasp, if their ambition, rising
beyond a life of indolence, had prompted them to con-
solidate and improve the power thus won; however,
this was far from being the case. There is good proof
that Savage at least made a fair attempt to take advan-
tage of these favourable circumstances. Firmly esta-
blishing himself at Bau, in the very heart of the most
powerful Fijian state, he exacted all the honours paid
to exalted chiefs, and, knowing that no man can attain
* «Fiji and the Fijians,’ p. 3.
t Dillon, ‘Discovery of the Fate of De la Pérouse,’ vol. i.; Captain
I. Erskine, ‘Western Pacific,’ p. 197.
EARLY WHITE SETTLERS. 407
position in Polynesia who is not a polygamist, he de-
manded a number of wives, amongst them some of the
highest ladies of the realm. Thus far his native friends
seem to have been willing to allow his carefully con-
cealed plan to succeed. Every additional step in advance
was rendered impossible; the natives were fully aware
that if any of his sons whom a great chief, as Savage was
considered to be, had by the daughters of powerful kings
and leaders, should ever attain manhood, they would be
in a position to exercise an unmitigated despotism, and
set on foot a centralizing influence, which the centrifu-
gal tendency of the Fijian mind has ever as strongly re-
sisted as the Teutonic. According to Fijian polity, the
sons of great queens, such as Savage had for his wives,
would, in virtue of their right as “ Vasus,” or nephews,
hold the territory and property of their uncles at their
absolute disposal, which, combined with their position
as sons of a great chief, would have given them an im-
mense preponderance. It was therefore deemed politic
to allow none of Savage’s children to be other than
still-born; he might have wives of the highest rank,
but there must be no offspring. On this point the na-
tives seem to have been inflexible, though Savage seemed
to have strained every nerve to frustrate their cruel de-
termination. The stand which the natives made, became
the rock on which the hopes of the white men to esta-
blish their permanent sway in Fiji were wrecked. Savage
died in March, 1814, near Vanua Levu, where he carried
on a war with the natives in order to procure a cargo of
sandalwood for an English trading vessel, the ‘ Hunter,’
of Calcutta. Together with portions of the crew, he was
408 ‘A MISSION TO VITI.
put to death and eaten, whilst his bones were converted
into sail-needles, and distributed amongst the people as
a remembrance of victory.*
However, it was not only from shipwrecked mariners
and runaway seamen, that the early white population
was recruited. In 1804, a number of convicts escaped
from New South Wales, in all about twenty-six, who took
up their abode in Fiji, who however died out rather ra-
pidly, either in the intertribal wars, in desperate fights
amongst themselves, or in consequence of the irregular
life led in a tropical climate. In 1824 only two, in 1840
only one of them, an Irishman of the name of Connor,
survived, who occupied the same position towards the
king of Rewa as Savage had done towards that of Bau.
Connor does not seem to have been of such a deep, plod-
ding nature as his comrade, or to have troubled his head
much about the affairs of the future. Even when, after
the loss of his royal patron, misfortune overtook him,
he appears to have preserved all the humour for which
his nation is proverbial, and was fully aware that the
natives would never let him starve as long as he could
while away an idle hour by the narration of a telling
tale—upon which he depended towards the close of his
days, quite as much, or perhaps even more, for a liveli-
hood, than upon the rearing of fowls and pigs.
On the whole, the natives seem to have treated the
first white men that came to live among them with hos-
pitality and kindness. This is exactly what, from the
nature of their country, might have been predicted. A
‘sanguinary custom may have demanded that bodies slain
* Dillon, ‘Discovery of the Fate of De la Pérouse.’
EARLY WHITE SETTLERS. 409
in battle should be baked and eaten, but the Fijian never
displayed that determined hostility towards foreigners
which is common to all natives in their barbarous state,
and found vent even in civilized countries in a system
of protective laws, which modern science still struggles
to clear away. In some of the smaller islands of Poly-
nesia, where food is scarce, and famine a common occur-
rence, every addition to the population is regarded
yather as a calamity than as a matter of rejoicing, and
the shores are jealously guarded against an infliction by
which the whole community must suffer. It is therefore
emphatically islands of this nature which our tract
charts still mark as the most dangerous for landing.
Viti, on the contrary, is so fertile, that food, as a general
rule, is abundant at all seasons; and its inhabitants
being well fed, and taking plenty of out-door exercise,
do not seriously differ from other nations who enjoy the
same advantages. A man who has every day a good
dinner is a differently-disposed being from him who has
to go very often without his daily meals; and the same
process continued for generations must produce very
opposite results in their respective characters. If any
of the early white settlers met with a violent end, it
was generally the foreigner, not the native, that fur-
nished its primary cause. Taking undue advantage of
the easy terms on which they lived with the chiefs, the
white men often applied insulting epithets or used foul
language to their hosts and protectors, provoking that
contempt which familiarity, with a certain class of minds,
invariably engenders. It was generally language of
this kind, or demands which the chiefs deemed it below
410 A MISSION TO VITI.
their dignity to comply with, which led to fatal conse-
quences.
Some of the old convict gang were still alive when
a few of a more respectable class of white traders and
missionaries took up their abode in the group, princi-
pally at Lakeba, Levuka, and Rewa. Of the traders we
know little except the incidental notices here and there
preserved; but of the doings of the missionaries ample
records have been placed before the world in their own
publications. When the latter commenced their labours
the political state of Fiji was little understood, and we
can therefore not wonder that they should have made a
serious mistake in the very outset. They began their
work of christianization at Lakeba, one of the windward
islands. Now Lakeba is dependent on Cakaudrove, and
the chiefs of the latter state were naturally jealous to
see vassals assume a greater importance than themselves,
and they opposed the spread of the new doctrine with
all means in their power. When, after a time, mission-
aries established themselves at Somosomo, then the ca-
pital of Cakaudrove, at Viwa and Rewa, they struggled
against similar disadvantages. These three states were
more or less dependent on Bau, and Bau, irritated at see-
ing its subordinates in possession of all the good things
that an active intercourse with the Christian teachers
threw in their way, tried to crush the new doctrine by
its mighty influence. There can be no doubt that many
atrocities were committed in the native capital, merely
to prove how little Bau was influenced by the religious
change going on in other parts of the group. It appears
that at an early date Cakobau had invited the mission-
REASONS OF BAU’S HOSTILITY TO MISSIONARIES. 411
aries to come to Bau, but that they did not put sufficient
confidence in him. The doubt thus cast upon his ho-
nour, together with the constant irritation of seeing
parts of the group under the suzerainty of Bau daring
to desert heathenism when still upheld by the leading
state, and a daily diminishing political influence, turned
King Cakobau into a deadly foe to Christianity. Had
the missionaries taken the bull by horns, and endea-
voured to obtain a footing at Bau before they took up
their residence in any other part of the group, their
labours would have been easy in comparison to what
they have been, and the whole group would have re-
nounced heathenism long ere this.* It was all up-hill
work, yet results have been attained, to which no right-
minded man can refuse admiration. According to the
latest returns, the attendance on Christian worship in
1861 was 67,489, and there were 31,566 in the day-
schools. For the supervision of this great work the So-
ciety had only eleven European missionaries and two
schoolmasters, assisted by a large class of native agents,
who are themselves the fruits of mission toil, and some
of whom, once degraded and cannibal heathens, are be-
coming valuable and accredited ministers of the Gospel.
The white settlers at present in the group may
amount to about two thousand souls, the greater num-
ber of whom have arrived within the last few years and
* Cakobau ‘‘ was offended with Mr. Cross, because he would not trust
himself at Bau on his first visit, but turned aside and opened a mission at
Rewa. The proud spirit of the chief was hurt at being placed second.”
(Calvert, ‘Fiji and the Fijians,’ vol. ii. p. 234.) Additional passages
might be cited from missionary writings to prove the view I have taken of
Baw’s hostility.
412 A MISSION TO VITI.
principally taken up their residence in Levuka and the
Rewa districts. They are traders, agriculturists, and sheep
farmers. Several have turned their attention to cotton
growing. Most of them live in native-built houses, and
only a few, including the consuls and missionaries,
have weather-boarded houses. They belong to all na-
tions; I have seen English, Americans, Germans,
French, Poles, and Russians, but the greater number
are British subjects. Nearly all have acquired more or
less land from the natives, and several have bought ex-
tensive tracts. Small islands are in great request, and
generally paid for at a much higher rate than pieces on
the larger islands, which require fencing in, and are apt
to give rise to disputes about boundaries. All the land
sold is registered at the British Consulate, and Mr. Prit-
chard, before he did so, was always very careful to have
the sellers acknowledge before him, and in the pre-
sence of a number of their townsmen, that they were sa-
tisfied with the bargain and had obtained the price stipu-
lated. The land originally belongs either to individuals or
to whole families, and the title confirmed by the ruling
chiefs is supposed to be good. From what I saw, I be-
lieve that in most instances a fair price is given, remem-
bering that the very best land in America may be had
for a dollar and a quarter an acre; and that those who
are willing to build a house, may have so-called bit-land
for about sixpence per acre. Since the Fijis have be-
come a field for immigration the land has considerably
risen, and I have seen, as already stated, £10 per acre
refused. The greatest landed proprietor was perhaps the
late Mr. Williams, United States Consul. Mr. Binner,
DEPARTURE FROM FIJI. 413
Wesleyan training-master, also owns large tracts and a
great many small islands. The land is paid for in
barter, cotton prints, cutlery, muskets, powder and shot.
Parties desirous of establishing plantations will have no
difficulty in obtaining any amount of good land near
rivers or the sea. Labour can be had to some extent in
Fiji, but Polynesians will work much better if they are
not in their own islands; and hands might be had by
running over to Rotuma, Fotuna, Were, Raratonga, and
the New Hebrides; indeed some of the best working
men and women I saw in Fiji were obtained from those
sources.
On the 2nd of November we returned to Lado, from
our voyage around Vanua Levu. We had left Nuku-
bati on the 30th of October, and called at Solevu and
Levuka. On the 7th of November the ‘Staghound,’
Captain Sustenance, arrived from Tahiti and Samoa,
and, as I had seen as much of Fiji as was accessible
and gathered all the information I had been directed
to accumulate, I engaged a passage in her for Sydney.
There were several passengers on board; two having
come from Tonga, where they had established sheep-
runs; and one had been over a great part of Fiji, to
judge for himself about the capabilities of the group for
colonization. From what I could gather from conversa-
tion, he had been sent out by a party of friends, all of
whom were desirous of investing capital in the islands
if his report should prove favourable. He spoke in
high terms of the country, and its resources.
T left Levuka on the 16th of November, and two days
after lost sight of Kadavu and the Fiji group. On the
414 A MISSION TO VITI.
22nd we were out of the tropics, on the 26th near Nor-
folk Island, and on the 3rd of December off Lord Howe
Island. Here we encountered a series of the most awful
electric storms it has ever been my misfortune to pass
through. The wind and waves were very high, the
peals of thunder truly terrific, and sheet and flash light-
ning without interruption from dusk till dawn. Our
vessel was struck several times by the lightning, and
two men were seriously injured. I was fully prepared
for going down, as it seemed almost impossible to sur-
vive a storm, to which all I had previously witnessed in
the tropics could not be compared in intensity and vio-
lence. The St. Elmo’s fire on the masthead and rigging
gave a peculiarly ghastly appearance to the vessel when
the darkness of night was restored by the momentary
cessation of the lightning. The men got terribly fright-
ened, and the rope’s-end had to be used freely to make
them do their duty. Captain Sustenance, every inch a
sailor, took the helm himself, and never quitted his
post till all was safe. His powerful voice could be heard
through the storm, and was almost the only thing that
inspired confidence, when all the elements seemed to
be bent upon our destruction.
Otherwise our passage was a very pleasant one. Cap-
tain Sustenance had been in the Royal Navy, and seen,
heard, and read a good deal, so that we were never hard
up for topics of conversation. When on the 10th of
December we dropped anchor in Sydney Harbour, we
had as much to talk about as when first stepping on
board at Levuka. To ascertain a man’s mental calibre,
no place is better suited than on board a ship. The
CONCLUSION. 415
generality of men are very dull company after the first
few days; they have exhausted their little store of con-
versation, and, having no newspapers and clubhouses to
supply them with fresh matter, they have absolutely
nothing to say, even their autobiographies refusing to
yield any new or interesting matter.
The collections I had dispatched to Sydney had safely
arrived and were well taken care of by Mr. Moore, the
director of the Botanic Garden. As the ‘Jeddo,’ the
next “ Peninsular and Oriental” steamer for England, did
not leave before the 22nd of December, I took advan-
tage of my stay to arrange and repack my treasures, and
Mr. Moore’s library and commodious premises were of
the greatest service to me for that purpose. I remained
all the time Mr. Moore’s guest, as I had been on a for-
mer occasion, and enjoyed very much the fine garden
in which his house is situated. Mr. Moore delivers every
season a series of lectures on botany, and during my stay
the distribution of prizes took place in the presence of
a numerous assembly. Dr. George Bennett having only
recently given a graphic description of the Sydney garden
in his ‘Gatherings of a Naturalist in Australasia,’ I
shall not dwell on a subject to me so tempting, and one
that confers great credit upon the zealous director of
the institution.
Leaving Sydney on the 22nd of December, we made
Melbourne on Christmas Eve, and King George’s Sound
on the 31st of December. Thence my voyage led to
Point de Galle, Ceylon, Egypt, and Malta, whence I took
the French steamer and paid a visit to Sicily and Italy,
ascending Vesuvius in company of Mr. and Mrs. George
416 A MISSION TO VITI.
Macleay, and, returning again to Malta, reached South-
ampton on the 12th of March, 1861, with no other acci-
dent than the breaking of the main shaft of the engine,
between Valetta and Gibraltar.
The war in New Zealand continuing, it soon became
apparent that the British Government had no inclination
to accept the cession of Fiji, but the fact was not officially
known until May, 1862, when the Wesleyan body had
intimation of it. They had written, it appears, a letter
asking for information, and stating at the same time
that if her Majesty’s Government should accept the ces-
sion, they should feel very much pleased if Colonel
Smythe was appointed Governor of the new colony.
Since then the official correspondence relative to the
Fijian islands has been laid before Parliament; and the
public has now ample materials to form an opinion on
the whole subject. I have simply written an unvar-
nished account of all I heard and saw, and refrained from
discussing the rejection of so fine a country from a poli-
tical point of view. I have no doubt as to the future of
Fiji. The importance of the group once recognized,
nothing will stop our race from taking possession of it;
and replacing barbarism and strife by civilization and
peaceful industry.
APPENDIX.
I. REPORT OF ADMIRAL WASHINGTON, R.N.
II. REPORT OF COLONEL SMYTHE, R.A.
III. SYSTEMATIC LIST OF ALL THE FIJIAN PLANTS
AT PRESENT KNOWN.
APPENDIX.
I—REPORT OF ADMIRAL WASHINGTON, R.N.
In accordance with the Board Minute, to report upon the
Colonial Office letter of the 9th instant, I have to state that —
The Fiji, or more properly the Viti group, in the south-western
Pacific, consists of some 200 islands, islets, and rocks, lying be-
tween latitude 154° and 193° south, at about 1900 miles, N.E.
of Sydney, and 1200 north of Auckland, at the north end of
New Zealand. The two largest islands may be some 300 miles in
circumference, or each is about the size of Corsica ; 65 of the islets
are said to be inhabited, and the whole population of the group
may be 200,000.
I propose to reply categorically to the queries contained in
the Colonial Office letter :—
Q. 1. If the Fiji Isles be obtained, are all the available har-
bours obtained in that part of the Pacific?
A, 1. Certainly not all, but a great part of them. The
Friendly or Tonga Islands, only 400 miles to the south-east,
possesses good harbours, as Tonga-tabi and Vavau. The Samoa
or Navigator Isles, the same distance to the north-east, have
good harbours, as Sangopango and Apia. Some of the Society
Islands also may be available, but lying 1800 miles to the east-
ward, they may not be considered as within the limits named :
none of the harbours, however, are superior to those of the Fiji
Islands,
2E2
420 A MISSION TO VITI.
Q. 2. Do the natural harbours now existing require much, if
any, artificial development for naval purposes? Whether such
harbours are few or many?
A, 2, There are several roadsteads and harbours in the Fiji
group, the principal of which is the extensive harbour of Levuka,
on the eastern side of Ovalau; this harbour has good holding-
ground, is easy of access, and has every facility for the supply of
fruit, vegetables, wood, and water. Gau, on its western side,
has a sheltered roadstead of large extent. Totoga is surrounded
by a coral reef, within which is a spacious sheltered anchorage,
with good holding-ground and an entrance for ships. All the
above harbours have been thoroughly surveyed by order of the
Admiralty, and plans of them, on a large scale, are available
when required. These natural harbours will not require any
artificial development for naval purposes.
3. There is nothing unusual in the tides and currents around
the Fiji group; they depend chiefly on the prevailing winds ; nor
are they of sufficient strength to render the entrance into or
egress from the harbours dangerous. There is no present ne-
cessity for buoys, beacons, or lights, but should trade greatly
increase, or should mail-steamers call by night, a light would
become necessary.
4. The Fiji Islands lie nearly in the direct track from Panama
to Sydney, as will be seen by the annexed chart of the Pacific
Ocean, on which I have shown that track, as also one by calling
at the Fijis, whence it appears that the steamer, if she touched
at one of the Fiji isles for coal, would lengthen her voyage only
about 320 miles, or one day’s run out of 32 days, on a distance
of 8000 miles. In like manner it appears, that on the voyage
from Vancouver Island to Sydney, the touching at Fiji would
lengthen the distance 420 miles in a voyage of 7000 miles. An
intermediate station between Panama and Sydney will be most
desirable ; indeed, if the proposed mail route is to be carried out,
it is indispensable. One of the Society Islands, as lying half-
way, would be a more convenient coaling station; but as they
are under French protection it seems doubtful if one could be
obtained. The Consul at Fiji, in the enclosed papers, hints at
the possibility of coal being found in one of the islands 3 if this
APPENDIX. 421
should prove to be the case, it would at once double their value
as a station.
In the above statements I have confined myself to answering
the questions in the Colonial Office letter, but on looking into
the subject I have been much struck by the entire want by Great
Britain of any advanced position in the Pacific Ocean. We have
valuable possessions on either side, as at Vancouver and Sydney,
but not an islet or a rock in the 7000 miles of ocean that sepa-
rate them. The Panama and Sydney mail communication is
likely to be established, yet we have no island on which to place
a coaling station, and where we could insure fresh supplies.
* * * * And it may hereafter be found very inconvenient that
England should be shut out from any station in the Pacific, and
that an enemy should have possession of Tongatabi, where there
is a good harbour, within a few hundred miles of the track of
our homeward-bound gold-ships from Sydney and Melbourne.
Neither forts nor batteries would be necessary to hold the ground;
a single cruizing ship should suffice for all the wants of the islands;
coral reefs and the hearty goodwill of the natives would do the
rest.
I have, etc.,
(Signed) Joun WasHINGTON,
Admiralty, March 12th, 1859. Hydrographer.
II.—REPORT OF COLONEL SMYTHE, R.A., TO
COLONIAL OFFICE.
The Fiji group of islands is situated in the Pacific Ocean, be-
tween the meridians of 176° east and 178° west longitude, and
between the parellels of 15° and 20° south latitude. It is com-
posed of about 200 islands and islets, of which less than one-half
is inhabited. Two of the islands (Viti Levu and Vanua Levu)
are of unusual size for the Pacific Ocean, having each a circum-
ference of 250 miles. The islands rise in general abruptly from
422, A MISSION TO VITI.
the sea, and present in their bold and irregular outlines the
peculiar characters of the volcanic formation to which they be-
long. With the exception of some tracts on the two larger
islands, but little level land is anywhere to be seen. Almost
every island is surrounded by a coral reef, either fringing the
shore, or separated from it by a channel more or less narrow.
The inhabitants belong to the darker of the two great Poly-
nesian races, but living on the confines of the lighter-coloured
race, have received from it some admixture. One language, with
some varieties of dialect, prevails throughout the group. The
population is estimated at 200,000, of whom 60,000 are num-
bered as Christian converts. [67,489 according to exact returns,
B.S.] The men are generally above the middle height, robust,
and well-built. Their principal occupation is the cultivation of
their yam and taro plots, which affords periodical but easy em-
ployment, sailing in their canoes, fishing, and frequently fighting.
The chief articles of food are yams, taros, fish, and coco-nuts,
breadfruit, bananas, and other fruits, the spontaneous productions
of the soil. Their clothing is extremely scanty, consisting of a
narrow strip of cloth, or rather paper, prepared from the bark of
the paper-mulberry. Their houses are constructed of reeds and
grass on a framework of poles. The floor is the natural soil
covered with fern leaves and mats; in the middle is a sunken
hearth, the smoke from which escapes through the walls and
roof. Apertures for light other than the doorways are very rare.
The houses are never isolated, but are crowded together in towns
or “ koros,”’ which are frequently surrounded by a ditch and an
earthen mound. The natives have raised no permanent struc-
tures. Although the coral reefs present an inexhaustible supply
of lime, and they have discovered the art of burning it, they
make no use of it except as paint, and to plaster their hair with.
There are no beasts of burden or draught, and consequently no
roads. The usual mode of moving about and of carriage is by
canoes. The only mechanics among them are the carpenters or
canoe-builders, who form an hereditary caste. The women, in
a few favourable localities, manufacture a rude kind of pottery.
There are in the group probably not less than forty independent
tribes, twelve of which, from their superior influence, may be con-
APPENDIX. 423
‘sidered as virtually to govern it. The names of these are Bau,
Rewa, Navua, Nadroga, Vunda, Ba, Rakiraki, and Viwa; round
the coast of the largest island (Viti Levu), Bua, Macuata, and
Cakadrove, or the other large island (Vanua Levu), and Lakeba,
among the windward islands. The rule of the chiefs is absolutely
despotic (see p. 231); the lives and goods, and to some extent
the lands of their people, are at their mercy. The number of
chiefs is very great ; almost every “ koro” has one or more. They
differ greatly in rank and influence. In many instances there
are two great chiefs at the same place, as at Bau. Here one of
these is called ‘“ Rokotuebau,” or ‘‘Great Chief of Bau,” and
the other “ Na Vu-ni-valu,” or the “ root of war.” They are both
consecrated to their office. At Bau, the “ Vu-ni-valu” is the
principal personage; but in other places, where similar titles
exist, the “ Vu-ni-valu,” although charged with special duties in
the conduct of war, has but little power.
South-eastward of Fiji, at a distance of 250 miles, lie the
Friendly or Tonga Islands. The inhabitants belong to the
lighter-coloured Polynesian race. They have long had inter-
course with the nearer islands of Fiji, attracted by the fine timber
for canoes which they afford. Canoes are built on the spot where
the material is found; the construction of a large one occupies
several years.
In 1822 the English Wesleyan Methodist Society commenced
a mission in Tonga, which led at a later period to the intro-
duction of Christianity into Fiji. This event took place in
1835, when two missionaries from Tonga landed at Lakeba, the
principal of the eastern islands, and where many Tonguese
were located. The success of these missionaries was so encou-
raging, that their Society gradually added to their number, and
eventually formed the Fiji group into a separate missionary
district.
The number of Tonguese in Fiji fluctuates considerably, but
may be taken at an average at from 300 to 400. Of late years
they have taken an active part in Fijian wars, sometimes helping
one chief, sometimes another, and invariably with success. They
are distinguished by daring, coupled with unity and discipline,—
qualities in which the Fijians are most wretchedly deficient..
494. A MISSION TO VITI.
They possess strong feelings of nationality, and own ready obe-
dience to their chief, Maafu, a near relative to the king of Tonga.
Native agency is largely employed by the missionaries in Fiji,
and many of the most efficient teachers are Tonguese. In cases
where Tonguese teachers have been ill-treated by the heathen
natives, Maafu has interfered as the protector of his countrymen.
In this manner, while extending his own influence, he has ren-
dered safer the position of the native teachers. [Compare Chapter
XV.] The presence of the Tonguese in Fiji has been far from an
unmixed benefit. Their conduct has often been in direct con-
tradiction to their profession of Christianity, and the help which
they have afforded to the chiefs has occasioned much oppression
to the people in the contributions levied to recompense their
services. The population of the Tonga group does not exceed a
tenth of that of Fiji; yet from the mental and physical superiority
of the Tonguese, their courage and discipline, and the dread of
them established among the Fijians, there is little doubt that
they could easily make themselves masters of Fiji,—an enterprise
which George, King of Tonga, has been said to meditate.
The permanent white residents in Fiji amount to about 200,
composed chiefly of men who have léft or run away from vessels
visiting the islands. They are principally British subjects, citi-
zens of the United States, with a few French and Germans; the,
two former are the most numerous. They traffic with the natives
for produce, which they dispose of to vessels. They do nothing
to civilize or improve the natives; on the contrary, they have
in many instances fallen to a lower level. Whenever they can
obtain spirits, most-of them drink to excess. From false infor.
mation given in the colonial journals regarding the acceptance
by Her Majesty of the sovereignty of the islands, and their ad-
vantages for settlers, a considerable number of people were in-
duced to visit them during last year. Discovering on their.
arrival the true state of affairs, many of them hastened to return
to the colonies, and the greater number of the remainder will
probably follow. They were generally of a much superior class
to the old white residents. [The latest intelligence received from
Fiji states the number of respectable white residents to be in-
creasing.—B. 8.]
APPENDIX. 425
Besides the British Consul, there is a Consul for the United
States of America residing in Fiji.
The principal articles of produce are cocoa-nut oil, tortoise-
shell, pearl-shell, and arrowroot. Formerly considerable quan-
tities of sandal-wood and béche-de-mer were carried to China,
but this trade has now nearly ceased. The staple article of
produce is cocoa-nut oil, of which about 200 tons are annually
exported.
The sugar-cane and coffee-tree both grow well, and may in
time contribute to the exports from Fiji. [Dr. Brower and Mr.
Whippy, Americans, have, according to recent intelligence, set
up a sugar-cane crushing-machine and coppers.—B. S.]
The climate of Fiji is not unhealthy ; fevers are almost un-
known. The most fatal disease to Europeans is dysentery. The
mean temperature of the whole year is probably about 80°.
Much rain falls, especially during the summer months of Ja-
nuary, February, and March. At this season thunder-storms
are frequent. Hurricanes scarcely ever occur except in these
months, and frequently several years in succession pass without
any. During the remainder of the year easterly winds prevail.
Of the meteorology of Fiji more precise information will soon be
obtained, as I brought out with me from the Meteorological De-
partment of the Board of Trade a complete set of instruments.
The three principal reasons stated in my instructions as hav-
ing been urged for accepting the sovereignty of the Fiji islands
are—
Ist. That they may prove a useful station for any mail steam-
ers running between Panama and Sydney.
nd. That they may afford a supply of cotton.
8rd. And, in close connection with the first reason, that
their possession is important to the national power and
security in the Pacific.
On the first head I beg to refer to the accompanying chart of
the Pacific Ocean, on which I have traced the great circle lines
joining Sydney, Panama, and Fiji, or, in other words, the lines
of shortest distance on the globe between these places. The line
from Sydney to Panama, it will be seen, crosses the northern
island of New Zealand almost in the latitude of Auckland, and
426 A MISSION TO VITI.
passes to the south of the great field of the Pacific Islands. The
distance by this line from Sydney to Panama is 7626 nautical
miles. The distance from Sydney to Fiji is 1735 miles, and from
Fiji to Panama 6250, making the distance from Sydney to Pa-
nama, by way of Fiji, 7985 miles, or 359 miles longer than by the
direct line. The latter line would be augmented by about 100
miles by the necessity of having to round the northern extremity
of New Zealand. There would still remain a difference of 260
miles in favour of the Auckland route. The route by Fiji, besides
being the longer, traverses the Pacific Archipelagoes, the navi-
gation among which is undoubtedly difficult and dangerous, from
the reefs and shoals in which they abound, and the occurrence
of hurricanes at certain seasons. [Compare Admiral Washing-
ton’s more favourable view, as expressed in his official report
above.—B. S.]
2ndly. Regarding the supply of cotton. The cotton plant is
not indigenous in Fiji.* From the concurring evidence of the
natives in all parts of the group, its first introduction may be
fixed at twenty-five years ago. As six different varieties are now
found, it is probable that since its first introduction fresh seeds
have from time to time been brought by vessels visiting these
islands. The natives do not cultivate it, and make scarcely any
use of it. Dr. Seemann brought out with him last year some
cotton seed, presented by the “‘ Manchester Cotton Supply Asso-
ciation,” for distribution in Fiji. It was of two kinds, “Sea
Island,” and “New Orleans.” None of the former kind ger-
minated, but the New Orleans proved very good. In an experi-
ment made under Dr. Seemann’s own direction, the seed was
sown on the 9th of June, and when he visited the plot again on
the 18th of October, the plants were from four to seven feet high,
and had some very fine ripe pods upon them. Since Mr. Pritch-
ard’s return from England at the end of 1859, some of the
* Most of the newspapers took this fact to bea serious drawback to the
successful cultivation of cotton, quite forgetting that cotton is not indi-
genous to the United States and many other countries in which it flou-
rishes. I made exactly the same statement (‘cotton is not indigenous in
Fiji”), but added that notwithstanding it had become almost wild in some
parts, so well is the country adapted for its growth.—B. S.
APPENDIX, 427
native chiefs have bcen induced to encourage the growth of cot-
ton, and a few young plants are now to be seen in the native
gardens in various places. Very little, however, can be expected
for some time from the natives. They will only be induced to
raise cotton by meeting with a ready sale for the small quan-
tities which they will bring in at first. The cultivation of cotton
by white settlers is principally a question of land and labour. In
a general way it may be said that there is not an acre of land in
Fiji which is not private property, the ownership resting either in
families or in individuals. A small portion of the land only at
any one time is under cultivation, as a narrow patch of ground
supplies the wants of a Fijian household, and the custom is to
break up frequently new ground and abandon the old. On the
subject of the purchase of land by whites, I made particular in-
quiry of the chiefs at each of the public meetings; the general
reply was, that an agreement made with the owners, if approved
by the chief, would hold good. In the older purchases of land
by whites, when the quantity exceeded what was required for a
house, the native residents were not interfered with, as no culti-
vation of land was attempted. In a few recent cases, where pur-
chases have been effected by the whites who came last year to
the islands, and who, with the view of forming plantations,
wished to remove the natives from the land, opposition from the
latter has been met with. By a clearer understanding with the
owners before the purchase was concluded, these difficulties would
probably have been avoided. The only mode hitherto of ob-
taining labour has been through the instrumentality of the chiefs,
who send a party of their people to perform the work agreed
upon and receive the payment, which they distribute at their
pleasure. This system would not meet the daily demand of la-
bour required in a cotton plantation. The general habits and
sentiments of the Fijians are opposed to the acquisition of pro-
perty by individuals. The chief seizes anything belonging to his
people that takes his fancy, and as readily gives it away, and the
people are equally ready to beg and to give. As the influence
of Christianity increases, the rule of the chiefs will become more
mild, and private rights will be more respected. It is very doubt-
ful, however, whether the people will become more industrious,
428 A MISSION TO VITI.
their wants being so few, and being so easily supplied. Although
capable of making a considerable exertion for a short period, the
natives dislike regular and continuous employment. On the
whole, I am of opinion that whether by natives or by white
planters with native labourers, the supply of cotton from Fiji
can never be otherwise than insignificant. [Compare Chapter
III., where the cotton question is regarded in a more favourable
light.—B. 8.]
3rdly. Regarding the importance of the possession of the Fiji
Islands to the national power and security in the Pacific. In-
fluence of a great power in the Pacific is dependent entirely on
its naval force. By the possession of Australia and New Zealand
England completely commands the western portion of the Pacific.
In these colonies naval armaments can be recruited and equipped,
aud perhaps in a few years may even be created. No group in
the Pacific can ever offer these advantages, and the possession of
one, in the western section more especially, is not only not re-
quired, but would be a source of embarrassment in the event of
war. [Compare Admiral Washington’s opinion.—B.8.] The
Fiji Islands do not lie in the path of any great commercial
route. The whole of the Pacific Archipelagoes lie to the north
of the direct line from the Australian colonies to Panama and
South America, and south of the line from Panama and North
America to China and India. All that it seems necessary for
England to possess in the Pacific is an island with a good har-
bour, midway between Auckland and Panama, in the steam-
packet route. Pitcairn’s island is nearly in the required position,
but it has no harbour. If a suitable island in its neighbourhood
could be found, it would become, in addition to a coaling station
for steam-vessels, the entrepdét of the pearl-shell and other trade
which now centres in Tahiti, and afford a very favourable place
of rendezvous for a squadron to protect our shipping homeward-
bound from Australia and the Pacific.
Of the native population of Fiji, less than one-third profess the
Christian religion; among the remainder cannibalism, strangu-
lation of widows, infanticide, and other enormities, prevail to a
frightful extent. Should the sovereignty of the islands be ac-
cepted by Her Majesty, the suppression of these inhuman prac-.
APPENDIX. 429
tices would be put into immediate execution. For this service,
and for the general support of the Government, a force of not
less than the wing of a regiment would be required, in addition
to a ship of war, with a tender of light draught, both steamers.
The expenses of a civil establishment, composed on a sufficient
scale to act efficiently on the condition of the natives, would pro-
bably not fall short of £7000 a year. The only mode of raising
a revenue would appear to be by a capitation tax ; customs duties
would be so small as not to cover the cost of collection, if the
importation of ardent spirits were prohibited (see p. 81), as a
regard for the welfare of the natives would imperatively demand.
For many years the Government would be necessitated to accept
the tax in kind, as the natives have no circulating medium of
exchange; and a still longer period would elapse before the is-
lands became self-supporting. Looking solely at the interests of
civilization, the forcible and immediate suppression of the bar-
barous practices of the heathen portion of the population might
appear a very desirable act; yet, in beneficial influence on the
native character, it might prove less real and permanent than the
more gradual operation of missionary teaching. The success
which has attended the missionaries in Fiji has been very re-
markable, and presents every prospect of continuance. The prin-
cipal tribes at present without missionaries or native teachers
are willing to receive them, and there appears nothing wanting
but time and a sufficiency of instructors to render the whole of
the inhabitants professing Christians. Judging from the present
state of the Sandwich Islands, and the former condition of Ta-
hiti, it would seem that the resources of the Pacific Islands can
be best developed, and the welfare of their inhabitants secured,
by a native government aided by the counsels of respectable
Europeans.
On a review of the foregoing considerations, and the conclu-
sions derived from a personal examination of the islands and the
people, I am of opinion that it would not be expedient that Her
Majesty’s Government should accept the offer which has been
made to cede to Her Majesty the sovereignty over the Fiji
Islands.
Having thus stated the conclusion to which my inquiries have
430 A MISSION TO VITI.
led me regarding the offer to Her Majesty of the sovereignty of
the Fiji Islands, I would beg leave to add a few suggestions to-
wards the improvement of our relations with them. The great
hindrance to the progress of civilization and Christianity among
the inhabitants of the Pacific Islands, is the conduct and example
of the whites residing or roving among them. Of the general
character of these men in Fiji I have already spoken. During
the few months I have been in the group, a case of arson, one
of theft, one of burglary, and one of aggravated assault, have oc-
curred among them. ‘The great difficulty in these cases is the
want of legal authority to arrest suspected persons, and of a
proper and safe place in which to keep them. ‘The only British
functionary is the Consul, atid he is powerless in these respects.
To remedy these evils, 1 would suggest that the Consul have
conferred on him some of the powers of a magistrate; that two
constables (married men, selected either from the police or the
army) be sent out from England; and that a stone lock-up house
be erected for the safe custody of offenders, until there is an
opportunity of sending them to the colonies for trial, or they are
otherwise disposed of. The place of residence of the Consul is a
matter of considerable importance. The principal white settle-
ment in Fiji at present is at Levuka, on the island of Ovalau.
It owed its selection to political causes in disturbed times. Its
harbour may be considered good, but the hills rise abruptly from
the beach and shut it in, and it is dependent on cther places
for much of its supplies. The present British Consul has an
office at Levuka, but he resides at a further part of the island of
Ovalau.
The locality best adapted in Fiji for a white settlement is the
country round the harbour of Suva in Viti Levu, the largest of
the islands. It is rich, level, and well-watered. The harbour is,
perhaps, the best in the group; it is easy of access, can be en-
tered and quitted with all the prevailing winds, and has com-
munication within the reef with a great extent of coast. If the
British Consulate were permanently established in this locality,
a white settlement would spring up near it, which, if the Consul.
were armed with the powers suggested above, would not be dis-
graced by the scenes of drunkenness and rioting so prevalent at
APPENDIX, 431
Levuka, and would be of eminent service in developing the na-
tural resources of the Fiji Islands.
Fiji Islands, May 1st, 1861.
TII.—SYSTEMATIC LIST OF ALL THE FIJIAN
PLANTS AT PRESENT KNOWN,
The Vitian Islands were until 1840 a virgin soil, and still offer a
tempting field for botanical exploratiéns. Absolutely nothing was
known of their Flora until Messrs. Hinds and Barclay, who accom-
panied Sir Edward Belcher in H.M.S. Sulphur, collected a few
specimens in the neighbourhood of Rewa, Viti Levu, and Bua
Bay in Vanua Levu, afterwards described by Mr. Bentham in the
‘London Journal of Botany,’ vol. ii, and the Botany of H.M.S.
Sulphur. About the same time (1840) Viti was visited by the
United States Exploring Expedition, Commander Wilkes, and con-
siderable collections were made by Messrs. Brackenridge, Rich, and
Pickering, furnishing the materials for Professor Asa Gray’s cele-
brated ‘Botany of the United States Exploring Expedition.” In
1856, H.M.S. Herald, Captain Denham, R.N., explored different
parts’ of the group, and Mr. Milne, his botanical collector, was
enabled to add a good number of species to our knowledge.
Another visit was paid to the group by that indefatigable bo-
tanist Professor Harvey, of Trinity College, Dublin, productive of
many new types. In 1860 I collected about 800 species and made
a great many notes of the country explored. Whilst part of the
latter, relating to the resources and vegetable productions, were
embodied in an official report, addressed to his Grace the Duke of
Newcastle, and presented to Parliament by command of her Majesty,
a preliminary list of the former was published by me in the ‘ Bon-
plandia,’ vol. ix. p. 253 (1861). Since then I have had time to ex-.
amine the plants more closely and correct a few errors crept in.
Other botanists have also been led to study the materials collected
by me and publish the result. Prof. A. Gray has carefully collated
my plants with those published by him in the ‘ Botany of the United
States Exploring Expedition’ and the ‘ Proceedings of the American
432 A MISSION TO VITI.
Academy,’ the result of which has been given in the ‘ Bonplandia,’
x. 34 (1862), and also in the Proceedings of the Academy named.
As there are very few original specimens in Europe of the numer-
ous new types described by that eminent savant, these papers are
invaluable to the working botanist. Mr. Mitten has examined
all my Mosses and Hepatice (Bonpl. ix. 365, and Bonpl. x. 19);
amongst the 35 species collected there being 20 new ones. For
the determination of the Ferns I am indebted to Mr. Smith, at
Kew; for that of the Fungi, to the Rev. M. J. Berkeley; for that
of the Palms, to Mr. Wendland ; the Lichens to the Rev. Churchill
Babington, and the Aroidee to Mr. Schott, at Vienna, who has
also described the new species (Bonplandia, ix. 367, seq.); for my
own part, I have begun to describe the new genera and species in
the ‘Bonplandia,’ ix. and x., and given coloured illustrations drawn
by the skilful pencil of Mr. Fitch. In the following catalogue will
be found embodied the result of all these labours, and also all the
species enumerated by previous authors. The numbers which follow
the different species refer to my distributed collections, and those
remitted to me by Mr. J. Storck, who was my able assistant, and is
now a permanent resident in Fiji.
Ranunculacee.
Clematis Pickeringii, A. Gray (1).
Dilleniacee.
Capellia biflora, A. Gray; vulgo ‘Ku-
lava’ vel ‘Kukulava’ (2).
C. membranifolia, A. Gray.
Anonacee.
Anona squamosa, Linn. Cultivated (3).
Richella monosperma, A. Gray.
Uvaria amygdalina, A. Gray.
U. odorata, Lam. ; vulgo ‘Makosoi’ (5).
Polyalthia Vitiensis, Seem. (4).
Myristicacee.
Myristica castanesfolia,
vulgo ‘Male’ (6).
M. macrophylla, A. Gray;
‘Male’ (7).
M. sp.; vulgo ‘ Male’ (866).
Crucifere.
Cardamine sarmentosa, Forst. (8).
Sinapis nigra, Linn. Cultivated and
naturalized (9).
A. Gray;
vulgo
Capparidee.
Capparis Richii, A. Gray.
Flacourtianee.
Xylosma orbiculatum, Forst. (10).
Samydacee.
Casearia disticha, A. Gray (11).
C.? acuminatissima, A. Gray.
C. Richii, A. Gray.
VPiolacee.
Agathea violaris, A. Gray, et var. (12).
Alsodeia? sp.; vulgo ‘Sesirakavono’
(867).
Molluginee.
Mollugo striata, Linn. (280).
Portulacee.
Portulaca oleracea, Linn. ; vulgo ‘Tau-
kuka ni vuaka’ (18).
P. quadrifida, Linn.; vulgo ‘Taukuku
ni vuaka’ (14),
Talinum patens, Willd. (15).
Sesuvium Portulacastrum, Linn.
APPENDIX.
Malwacee.
Sida linifolia, Cav.
8. rhombifolia, Linn. (16).
8. retusa, Linn.
Urena lobata, Linn. (17).
U. moriifolia, De Cand.
Abelmoschus moschatus, Meench ; vulgo
* Wakiwaki’ (19, 869).
A. canaranus, Mig. ? (20).
A. Manihot, Med.; vulgo ‘Bele,’ vel
*Vauvau ni Viti’ (18).
A. esculentus, Wight et Arn. Culti-
vated, according to A. Gray.
Hibiscus Rosa-Sinensis, Linu.; vulgo
*Kauti,’ ‘Senitoa,’ vel ‘Seniciobia’
(22).
H. Storckii, Seem.; vulgo ‘Seqelu’
(23).
H. diversifolius, Jacq.; vulgo ‘ Kala-
uaisoni,’ vel ‘ Kalakalauaisoni’ (21).
Paritium purpurascens, Seem.; vulgo
‘Vau damudamu’ (24).
P. tiliaceum, Juss. ; vulgo ‘ Vau dina’
(25).
P. tricuspis, Guill. vulgo ‘Vau dra’
(26).
Thespesia populnea, Corr.; vulgo ‘ Mu-
lomulo’ (7).
Gossypium religiosum, Linn.; vulgo
*Vauvau ni papalagi’ (28).
G. Peruvianum, Cav.; vulgo ‘Vau-
vau ni papalagi’ (29).
G. Barbadense, Linn.; vulgo ‘ Vauvau
ni papalagi’ (30).
G. arboreum, Linn. et var.; vulgo
‘Vauvau ni papalagi’ (31, 32).
Sterculiacee.
Heritiera _littoralis, Dryand.; vulgo
‘Kena ivi na alewa Kalou’ (338).
Firmiana diversifolia, Gray.
Buettneriacee.
Commersonia platyphylla, De Cand.
34).
Pre ena gen. nov. aff. Commer-
sonise (83).
Kleinhovia _hospita, vulgo
‘Mamakara’ (35).
Linn. ;
433
Waltheria Americana, Linn. (36).
Melochia Vitiensis, A. Gray (37).
Tiliacee.
Triumfetta procumbens, Forst. (38).
Grewia persicefolia, A. Gray (= G. Mal-
lococca, var. ?) ; vulgo ‘Siti’ (39).
G. prunifolia, A. Gray; vulgo ‘Siti’
(40).
G. Mallococca, L. fil.
Trichospermum Richii, Seem. (= Dicli-
docarpus Richii, A. Gray); vulgo
‘Maku’ (41, 870).
Eleocarpus laurifolius, A. Gray.
E. cassinoides, A. Gray.
E. pyriformis, A. Gray.
E, Storckii, Seem. sp. nov. (E. aff. spe-
ciosi, Brongn. et Gris.) ; vulgo ‘ Gai-
gai’ (874).
Ternstremiacee.
Draytonia rubicunda, A. Gray; vulgo
‘Kau alewa’ (42, 872).
Eurya Vitiensis, A. Gray (43).
E. acuminata, De Cand. (44).
Ternstremiacearum gen. nov. (45).
Guttifere.
Discostigma Vitiense, A. Gray.
Calysaccion obovale, Mig. (= Garcinia
Mangostana, A. Gray in United St.
Expl. Exped.) ; vulgo ‘ Vetao’ vel
‘ Uvitai’ (46).
Calophyllum Inophyllum, Linn. ; vulgo
‘Dilo’ (48, 873).
C. Burmanni, Wight ; vulgo ‘Damanu’
(49).
C. (polyanthum, Wall.? v. lanceolatum,
Bl. ? = C. spectabile, United St.
Expl. Exped. ; vulgo ‘Damann dilo-
dilo’) (47).
Garcinia sessilis, Seem. (Clusia sessilis,
Forst. 51).
G. pedicellata, Seem. (Clusia pedicel-
lata, Forst. 50).
Pittosporee.
Pittosporum arborescens, Rich.
P. Richi, A. Gray; vulgo ‘Tadiri’
(54).
P. Brackenridgei, A. Gray (55).
2F
434
P. tobiroides, A. Gray (56).
P. Pickeringii, A. Gray (53).
P. rhytidocarpum, A. Gray (52).
Aurantiacee.
Micromelum minutum, Seem. (M. gla-
brescens, Bth.; Limonia minuta,
Forst.); vulgo ‘Qiqila’ teste Wil-
liams (57).
Citrus vulgaris, Risso (C. torosa,
Picker.); vulgo ‘Moli kurikuri’
(58).
C. Aurantium, Risso ; vulgo ‘ Moli ni
Tahaiti.’—Cult.
C. Decumana, Linn.; vulgo ‘Moli
kana.’ Cultivated and naturalized.
C. Limonum, Risso; vulgo ‘ Moli
kara.’
Meliacee.
Aglaia edulis, A. Gray (Milnea edulis,
Roxb.) ; vulgo ‘ Danidani loa.’
A.? basiphylla, A. Gray.
Didimochyton Richii, A. Gray.
Xylocarpus Granatum, Keen.; vulgo
*Dabi’ (61).
X. obovatus, A. Juss. (var. precedent. P
62).
Vaveea amicorum, Benth. (63).
Meliz sp. nov. (64).
Sapindacee.
Cardiospermum microcarpum, H. B. et
K.; vulgo ‘ Voniu’ (65).
Sapindus Vitiensis, A. Gray (66).
Cupania falcata, A. Gray (70).
C. Vitiensis, Seem. (an var. praced.?
68).
C. rhoifolia, A. Gray ; vulgo ‘Buka ni
vuda’ (74, 69).
C. apetala, Labill. (67).
C. Brackenridgei, A. Gray.
C. leptobotrys, A. Gray.
Nephelium pinnatum, Camb.; vulgo
‘ Dawa,’ et var. plur. (71).
Dodonea triquetra, Andr. ;
©Wase’ teste Williams (72).
vulgo
Malpighiacee.
Hiptage Javanica, Bl. ?
H. myrtifolia, A. Gray.
A MISSION TO VITI.
Ampelidee.
Vitis saponaria, Seem. (= Cissus geni-
culata, A. Gray, non BL); vulgo
‘Wa Roturotu’ (76).
V. Vitiensis, Seem. (Cissus Vitiensis,
A. Gray).
V. acuminata, Seem. (Cissus acumi-
nata, A. Gray) (77).
Leea sambucina, Linn. (78).
Rhamnee.
Smythea pacifica, Seem. Bonpl. t. 9
(79).
Ventilago? Vitiensis, A. Gray (an
Smythe spec. ? = cernua, Tul.).
Colubrina Asiatica, Brongn.; vulgo
‘Vuso levu’ (80).
C. Vitiensis, Seem. sp. nov. (85).
Alphitonia zizyphoides, A. Gray (=
A. franguloides A. Gray); vulgo
‘Doi’ (81).
Gouania Richii, A. Gray (82).
G. denticulata, A. Gray.
Rhamnea dubia (84).
Chailletiacee.
Chailletia Vitiensis, Seem. sp. nov. (876).
Celastrinea.
Catha Vitiensis, A. Gray (86).
Celastrus Richii, A. Gray.
Aquifoliacee.
Tlex Vitiensis, A. Gray (87).
Olacinee.
Ximenia elliptica, Forst. ; vulgo ‘Somi-
somi,’ ‘Tumitomi,’ vel ‘Tomitomi’
(88).
Stemonurus? sp.; vulgo ‘Duvu’ (877).
Olacinea ? (878).
Oxalidee.
Oxalis corniculata, Linn. ; vulgo ‘ Toto-
wiwi? (89).
Rutacee.
Evodia hortensis, Forst.; vulgo ‘ Uci,’
vel ‘Salusalu’ (91).
E. longifolia, A. Rich. (92).
E. drupacea, Labill.? (90).
Acronychia petiolaris, A. Gray.
. APPENDIX.
Zanthoxylon varians, Benth. (= Acro-
nychia heterophylla, A. Gray
(102, 879).
Z. Roxburghianum, Cham. et Schlecht.
(108).
Z.sp. (nu. 104),
Simarubee.
Soulamea amara, Lam.
Amaroria soulameoides, A. Gray (880).
Brucea ? sp. (105).
Ochnacee.
Brackenridgea nitida, A. Gray (93).
Anacardiacee.
Oncocarpus atra, Seem. (O. Vitiensis,
A. Gray; Rhus atrum, Forst.) ; vulgo
‘Kau Karo’ (94, 881)
Buchanania florida, Schauer (882).
Rhus simarubeefolia, A. Gray (95).
Bh. Taitensis, Guill. ? (96).
Burseracea.
Canarium Vitiense, A. Gray (97).
Evia dulcis, Comm.; vulgo ‘ Wi’
(98).
Dracontomelon sylyestre, Blum. ; vulgo
‘Tarawau’ (99).
Dr. sp.? (100).
Connaracee.
Rourea heterophylla, Planch.
Connarus Pickeringii, A. Gray (101).
Leguminose.
I. Papilionacese :—
Crotalaria quinquefolia, Linn.
Indigofera Anil, Linn. (106).
Tephrosia purpurea, Pers. (T. piscatoria,
Pers. 107).
Ormocarpus sennoides, De Cand.
Uraria lagopodioides, De Cand. (108).
Desmodium umbellatum, W. et Arn.
(109).
D. australe, Bth. (Hedysarum, Willd.)
D. polycarpum, De Cand. (111).
Abrus precatorius, Linn.; vulgo ‘ Qiri
damu,’ ‘ Lere damu,’ vel ‘Diri damu’
(110).
Canavalia obtusifolia, De Cand. (122).
- Pterocarpus Indicus, Willd. ;
435
C. turgida, Grah. (112).
C. sericea, A. Gray.
Glycine Tabacina, Bth. (123).
Mucuna gigantea, De Cand. (119).
M. platyphylla, A. Gray (200).
Erythrina Indica, Linn. ; vulgo, ‘ Drala
dina,’ (125) et var. fl. albis.
E. ovalifolia, Roxb.; vulgo
kaka’ (124).
Strongylodon ruber, Vogel (113).
Phaseolus rostratus, Wall.
Ph. Mungo, Linn. ?
Ph. Trusxillensis, H. B. et K. (116).
Vigna lutea, A. Gray (121).
Lablab vulgaris, Savi; vulgo ‘Drala-
wa,’ (118).
Cajanus Indicus, Spr. Introd. (115).
Pongamia glabra, Vent.; vulgo ‘ Vesi-
vesi, v. ‘ Vesi ni wai’ (126, 884).
Dervis uliginosa, Benth. ; vulgo ‘Duwa
gaga’ (127, 883)
Dalbergia monosperma, Dalz. (128).
D. torta, Grah.
‘Drala
vulgo
‘Cibicibi’ (129).
Sophora tomentosa, Linn.; vulgo ‘Kau
ni alewa’ (130, 886).
IT. Cesalpineze :—
Guilandina Bondue, Ait.; vulgo ‘Soni’
(132).
Poinciana pulcherrima, Linn.—Cult.
Storckiella Vitiensis, Seem. in Bonpl. t.
6; vulgo ‘Marasa’ (133).
Cassia occidentalis, Linn. vulgo ‘Kau
moce’ (134).
C. obtusifolia, Linn. ; vulgo ‘ Kau moce’
(135).
C. levigata, Willd.; vulgo ‘ Winivi-
kau’ (186).
C. glauca, Lam.
Afzelia bijuga, A. Gray ; vulgo ‘ Vesi’
(137).
Cynometra grandiflora, A. Gray (188).
C. falcata, A. Gray.
Tnocarpus edulis, Forst.; vulgo ‘TIvi’
(371).
III. Mimoseze :—
Entada scandens, Bth. ; vulgo ‘ Wa lai,’
vy. ‘Wa tagiri’ (189).
2F 2
436
Mimosa pudica, Linn. Naturalized (140).
Leuceena glauca, Bth. (141)
L. Forsteri, Benth. (142).
Acacia laurifolia, Willd.; vulgo ‘Tata-
kia’ (143). ;
A. Richi, A. Gray; vulgo ‘Qumu’
(144).
Serianthes myriadenia, Planch.
8. Vitiensis, A. Gray; vulgo ‘ Vaivai’
(145, 887).
Chrysobalanee.
Parinarium laurinum, A. Gray (= P.?
Margarata, A. Gray = P. insularum,
A. Gray) ; vulgo ‘ Makita’ (146).
Rosacea.
Rubus tiliaceus, Smith; vulgo ‘Wa
gadrogadro’ (147).
; Myrtacee.
Barringtonia speciosa, Linn.; vulgo
‘Vutu rakaraka’ (148).
B. Samoensis, A. Gray; vulgo ‘ Vutu
ni wai’ (149).
B. excelsa, Blume; vulgo ‘ Vutu kana’
(150).
B. sp.
Eugenia (Jambosa) Malaccensis, Linn. ;
vulgo ‘ Kavika:’ var. a, floribus albis,
vulgo ‘Kavika vulovulo;’ var. B,
floribus purpureis, vulgo ‘ Kavika
damudamu’ (161).
E. (Jambosa) Richii, A. Gray; vulgo
© Bokoi’ (164).
E. (Jambosa) sp. (an Richii var. ?) ;
vulgo ‘Sea’ (165).
HE. (Jambosa) quadrangulata, A. Gray.
E. (Jambosa) gracilipes, A. Gray ;
vulgo ‘Lutulutu,’ vel ‘ Bogibalewa’
(158).
E. (Jambosa) neurocalyx, A. Gray ;
vulgo ‘ Leba’ (159).
. rariflora, Bth. (160).
. Brackenridgei, A. Gray (155).
confertiflora, A. Gray.
sp. nov. confertiflor. proxima (156).
. effusa, A. Gray (151).
amicorum, Benth. (152).
E. rubescens, A. Gray; vulgo ‘ Yasi
“dravu’ (154).
bi bt ed bb
A MISSION TO VITI.
E. corynocarpa, A. Gray (158).
E. rivularis, Seem.; vulgo ‘ Yasi ni
wai’ (162).
E. Grayi, Seem. sp. nov. fl. purpu-
reis (168).
Nelitris fruticosa (A. Gray).
N. Vitiensis, A. Gray; vulgo ‘ Nuqa-
nuqa’ (166, 888).
Acicalyptus myrtoides, A. Gray.
A. Seemanni, A. Gray (168).
Metrosideros collina,-A. Gray ; vulgo
‘Vuga’ (169, 889).
M. sp. fl. luteis (170).
M. sp. fl. coccineis (171).
Melastomacee.
Memecylon Vitiense, A. Gray et var.
(172).
Astronia Pickeringii, A. Gray.
A. confertiflora, A. Gray (174).
A. Storckii, Seem., sp. nov.; vulgo
“Cavacava’ (890).
Astronidium parviflorum, A. Gray
(468).
| Anplectrum ? ovalifolium, A. Gray.
Medinilla heterophylla, A. Gray (175).
M. rhodochlena, A.Gray; vulgo ‘ Cara-
raca ra i resiga’ (177, 891).
M. sp. (182).
M. sp. (75).
M. sp. (175).
Melastoma Vitiense, Nand. (180).
M. polyanthum, Bl.? (179).
Melastomacea (181).
Alangiee.
Rhytidandra Vitiensis, A. Gray.
Rhizophoree.
Haplopetalon Richii, A. Gray.
H. Seemanni, A. Gray (184).
Crossostylis biflora, Forst.
Rhizophora mucronata, Lam.; vulgo
‘Dogo’ (185).
Bruguiera Rhumphii, Bl. (186).
Combretacee.
Lumnitzera coccinea, Willd.; vulgo
‘Sagali’ (189).
Terminalia Catappa, Linn. ; vulgo ‘ Ta-
vola’ (187).
APPENDIX. 437
P. Moluccana, Lam.; vulgo ‘ivi’ Rubiaceae.
188). :
ace Forst. ? piers
; 7 : Coprosma persiceefolia, A. Gray.
Passifloree. Geophila reniformis, Cham. et
Passiflora, sp. fl. viridibus (190).
Papayacee.
Carica Papaya, Linn.; vulgo ‘ Oleti,’
Introd. (190).
Cucurbitacee.
Karivia Samoensis, A. Gray (192).
Luffa insularum, A. Gray (193).
Cucumis pubescens, Willd. (194).
Lagenaria vulgaris, Ser. (195).
Saxifragee.
Spireanthemum Vitiense, A. Gray.
Sp. Katakata, Seem., sp. nov.; vulgo
‘Katakata’ (196).
Weinmannia affinis, A. Gray, (197,) et
var. (199 et 200).
W. Richii, A. Gray.
W. spireoides, A. Gray.
W. sp. (198).
Geissois ternata, A. Gray; vulgo ‘ Vuga’
(201).
Umbellifere.
Hydrocotyle Asiatica, Linn. ;
‘Totono’ (202).
vulgo
Araliacee.
Aralia Vitiensis, A. Gray (203).
Panax fruticosum, Linn. ; vulgo ‘ Dani-
dani’ (204).
Paratropia ? multijuga, A. Gray ; vulgo
‘Danidani’ (205).
Plerandra Pickeringii, A. Gray.
P. Grayi, Seem., sp. nov. (206 et 209).
P.? sp. nov. (208).
P. sp. (207).
Loranthacee.
Loranthus insularum, A. Gray ; vulgo
‘Saburo’ (211).
I. Vitiensis, Seem. (210).
I. Forsterianus, Schult.
Viscum articulatum, Burm. (212).
Balanophoree.
Balanophora fungosa, Forst.
Schlecht. (239).
Chasalia amicorum, A. Gray? (241).
Psychotria Brackenridgei, A. Gray.
P. Forsteriana, A. Gray, var. Vitiensis,
A. Gray (236).
. turbinata, A. Gray.
. tephrosantha, A. Gray.
parvula, A. Gray.
gracilis, A. Gray.
calycosa, A. Gray? (246).
. macrocalyx, A. Gray (248).
filipes, A. Gray.
hypargyrea, A. Gray.
. (Piptilema) cordata, A. Gray.
(Piptilema) Pickeringii, A. Gray
(251).
(Piptilema) platycocca, A. Gray
(249).
. Insularum, A. Gray? (250).
. collina, Labill. (244 et 254).
sarmentosa, Blum. (245).
sp.; vulgo ‘Wa kau:’ ramis scan-
dentibus sarmentosis (895).
. sp. foliis bullatis (248).
sp. nov. aff. filipedis (253).
sp. nov. aff. Brackenridgei (255).
. sp. aff, Brackenridgei (259).
Calycosia petiolata, A. Gray.
C. pubiflora, A. Gray (214).
C. Milnei, A. Gray; vulgo. ‘ Kau wai,’
(213, 892).
Ixora Vitiensis, A. Gray (247); Pa-
yetta triflora, De Cand.; Coffea tri-
flora, Forst.; Cephaélis? fragrans,
Hook. et Arn.
I. sp. nov. (258).
I. sp.; vulgo ‘ Kau sulu’ (893).
Canthium sessilifolium, A. Gray.
C. lucidum, Hook. et Arn.; Coffea odo-
rata, Forst. (220 et 221).
Morinda umbellata, Linn. (222).
M. myrtifolia, A. Gray; foliis majori-
bus (an v. M. umbellate?) (223).
M. mollis, A. Gray (224).
M. phillyreoides, Labill. (226).
WH NWN
Hh hh
438 A MISSION
M. citrifolia, Linn.; vulgo ‘Kura,’ v.
‘Kura kana’ (225).
M. lucida, A. Gray.
M. bucidefolia, A. Gray.
Hydnophytum longiflorum, A. Gray
(= Myrmecodia Vitiensis, Seem.)
(216).
Vangueria? sp. (257).
Guettarda speciosa, Linn.; vulgo ‘ Bua-
bua’ (237).
G. (Guettardella) Vitiensis, A. Gray
(= 257°).
Timonius sapotefolius, A. Gray.
T. affinis, A. Gray.
Cotfeacea ; vulgo ‘ Kau lobo’ (893).
II. Cinchonese :-—
Hedyotis tenuifolia, Sm. (231).
H. deltoidea, W. et Arn. ? (232).
H. paniculata, Roxb. (233).
H. paniculata, Roxb. var. crassifolia, A.
Gray (234).
H. bracteogonum, Spr. (235).
Ophiorrhiza laxa, A. Gray (227).
O. peploides, A. Gray (228).
O. leptantha, A. Gray (229).
Lindenia Vitiensis, Seem. Bonpl. t. 8
(217).
Lerchea calycina, A. Gray.
Dolicholobium oblongifolium, A. Gray.
D. latifolium, A. Gray.
D. longissimum, Seem. (215).
Stylocoryne Harveyi, A. Gray.
St. sambucina, A. Gray (S. pepericarpa,
Bth.) (242).
Griffithie sp.? (260).
G.? sp. v. gen. nov. (240).
G. sp. fl. odoratis.
Gardenia Vitiensis, Seem. (218).
G.? (an gen. nov. ?) (240).
Mussenda frondosa, Linn. ;
* Bovu.”
vulgo
Composite.
Monosis insularum, A. Gray.
Lagenophora Pickeringii, A. Gray.
Erigeron albidum, A. Gray; vulgo
‘Wavuwayu,’ vy. ‘Co ni papalagi’
(261).
Adenostemma viscosum, Forst. (262).
Siegesbeckia orientalis, Linn. (263).
TO VITI.
Dichrocephala latifolia, De Cand. (264).
Myriogyne minuta, Linn. (265).
Sonchus oleraceus, Linn. (n. 266).
Ageratum conyzoides, Linn.; vulgo
‘Botebotekoro,’ vel ‘ Matamocemoce’
(267).
Wollastonia Forsteriana, De Cand. ;
vulgo ‘Kovekove’ (268).
Eclipta erecta, Linn. ; vulgo ‘ Tumadu’
(269).
Bidens pilosa, Linn.; vulgo ‘ Bati-
madramadra (270).
Glossogyne tenuifolia, Cass. (271).
Blumea virens, De Cand. (272).
B. Milnei, Seem. (sp. nov. aff. B. aroma-
tice, De Cand. 278).
Goodeniacea.
Sceevola floribunda, A. Gray (8. saligna,
Forst.?) ; vulgo ‘Totoirebibi’ (274,
896).
8. Keenigii, Vahl (275).
Cyrtandree.
Cyrtandra acutangula, Seem. (276).
C. Vitiensis, Seem. ; vulgo ‘ Betabiabi’
(277).
. anthropophagorum, Seem. (278).
. involucrata, Seem. (279).
. coleoides, Seem. (280).
Milnei, Seem. (281).
. ciliata, Seem. (282).
C. Pritchardii, Seem. (283).
Vaccinee.
Epigynum ? Vitiense, Seem. (284).
eaaaaa
Epacridee.
Leucopogon Cymbula, Labill.; vulgo
‘ Tagatagalesa.’
Myrsinee.
Mesa Pickeringii, A. Gray.
M. persiceefolia, A. Gray (287 ?).
M. corylifolia, A. Gray (288).
M. nemoralis, A. Gray (286°).
Myrsine myricefolia, A. Gray (290
ex parte).
M.? Brackenridgei, A. Gray.
M. capitellata, Wall. ? (289).
Ardisia ? capitata, A. Gray.
APPENDIX,
A. grandis, Seem. (293).
A. sp. (292, 897).
A. sp. (291).
Styracee.
Symplocos spicata, Roxb. ; vulgo ‘ Ravu
levu.’
Ebenacee.
Maba foliosa, Rich.
M. elliptica, Forst.; vulgo ‘Kau loa’
(295, 296, 297, 898).
Sapote.
Sapota? pyrulifera, A. Gray.
8.? Vitiensis, A. Gray.
8. sp. (ex A. Gray),
Jasminee,
Jasminum tetraquetrum, A. Gray.
J. gracile, Forst.; vulgo ‘Wa Vatu’
(298).
J. didymum, Forst.; J. divaricatum,
R. Brown (299).
Loganiacea.
Geniostoma rupestre, Forst. (301).
var. puberulum, A. Gray (G. crassi-
folium, Bth.) (300).
G. microphyllum, Seem. (304).
Strychnos colubrina, Linn. (302).
Courthovia corynocarpa, A. Gray (=
Gertnera pyramidalis, Seem.) ; yulgo
‘Boloa’ (803).
C. Seemanni, A. Gray (Gertnera bar-
bata, Seem.) (305, 899).
Fagrea gracilipes, A. Gray (F. viridi-
flora, Seem.) (306).
F. Vitiensis, Seem. (307).
F. Berteriana, A. Gray; vulgo ‘Bua’
(308).
Apocynee.
Alyxia bracteolosa, Rich ; vulgo ‘Vono’
(310, 900); var.a macrocarpa, A.Gray
(A. macrocarpa, Rich.); var. 6 angusti-
folia, A. Gray (A. stellata, Seem.) ;
var. y parviflora, A. Gray.
A. stellata, Labill.
Cerbera lactaria, Ham. ; vulgo ‘ Rewa’
vel ‘Vasa’ (309).
Melodinus scandens, Forst. (311).
439
Tabernemontana Vitiensis, Seem.; T.
citrifolia, Forst. non L. =? T. Cu-
mingiana, A. De Cand.
T. sp.
Rejoua scandens, Seem. sp. nov. ; vulgo
‘Wa rerega’ (901).
Ochrosia parviflora, Hensl. (O. elliptica,
Labill. ?) (818).
Alstonia plumosa, Labill. (318).
A? sp. (817).
Kchites scabra, Labill. ? (315).
Lyonsia levis, A. Gray.
A sclepiadee.
Tylophora Brackenridgei, A. Gray.
Gymnema subnudum, A. Gray.
G. stenophyllum, A. Gray;
‘Yauyau’ (322).
Hoya bicarinata, A. Gray; Asclepias
volubilis, Forst.; vulgo ‘ Wa bibi’ vel
‘Bulibuli sivaro’ (319).
H. diptera, Seem. (320).
H. pilosa, Seem. (321).
Gentianee.
Erythrea australis, R. Brown.
Limnanthemum Kleinianum, Griseb. ;
vulgo ‘ Bekabekairaga’ (323).
vulgo
Convolvulacee.
TIpomea campanulata, Linn. ;
‘Wa vula’ (324).
I. peltata, Chois.; vulgo ‘ Wiliao’ teste
Seemann, ‘Veliyana’ teste Williams
(825).
I. Pes capre, Sw.; vulgo ‘Lawere’
(326).
I. Twpethum, R. Brown; vulgo ‘Wa
kai’ (327).
I. sepiaria, Koen. (328).
I. cymosa, Rem. et Schult.; vulgo
‘Sovivi’ (834).
Aniseia uniflora, Chois. (329).
Batatas paniculata, Chois. ; vulgo ‘Wa
Uvi’ vel ‘ Dabici’ teste Storck (330,
902).
B. edulis, Chois.; vulgo ‘Kumara’ vel
‘Kawai ni papalagi.’—Cult.
Pharbitis insularis, Chois. ; vulgo ‘Wa
Vuti’ (331).
Calonyction speciosum, Chois. (332).
C. comosperma, Boj. (333).
vulgo
440
Boraginea.
Tournefortia argentea, Linn. (335).
Cordia Sprengelii, DeCand.; vulgo ‘Tou’
(336).
C. subcordata, Lam.; vulgo ‘ Nawa-
nawa’ (337).
Solanee.
Physalis Peruviana, Linn. (338).
P. angulata, Linn. (339).
Solanum viride, R. Brown ? (340).
8. anthropophagorum, Seem. (sp. nov.
Bonpl.t. 14) ; vulgo ‘Borodina’ (341).
S. repandum, Forst. ; vulgo ‘Sou,’ ‘ Sou-
sou,’ vel ‘ Boro sou’ (342).
8. inamenum, Benth. Lond. Journ. ii.,
p. 228 (343).
S. oleraceum, Dun.; vulgo ‘Boro ni
yaloka ni gata’ (344).
8. sp. (S. repand. var.? (345).
Capsicum frutescens, Linn. ; vulgo ‘Boro
ni papalagi’ (346).
Nicotiana Tabacum, Linn.—Cultivated
(347).
Datura Stramonium, Linn. — Introd.
(348).
Scrophularinee.
Vandellia crustacea, Benth. (349).
Limnophila serrata, Gaud. (350).
Acanthacee.
Eranthemum laxiflorum, A. Gray (351,
ex parte). .
E. insularum, A. Gray (351, ex parte).
Adenosma triflora, Nees ab Esenb.;
vulgo ‘Tamola’ (352).
Verbenacee.
Clerodendron inerme,
vulgo ‘ Verevere’ (353).
Vitex trifolia, Linn. ; vulgo ‘ Vulokaka’
(354).
Premna Tahitensis, Schauer (Scrophu-
~ larioides arborea, Forst.); vulgo
‘Yaro’ (355).
P. Tahitensis, Schauer; var.? (356).
Gmelina Vitiensis, Seem. (sp. nov.).
Labiate.
Leucas decemdentata, Sm. (357).
Ocimum gratissimum, Linn. (358).
R. Brown;
A MISSION TO VITI.
Plectranthus Forsteri, Benth.; vulgo
‘Lata’ (359).
Teucrium inflatum, Swartz (360).
Plumbaginee.
Plumbago Zeylanica, Linn. (361).
Plantaginee.
Plantago major, Linn.—Introd. (362).
Nyctaginee.
Pisonia Brunoniana, Endl. (363).
P. viscosa, Seem. (sp. nov.) (364).
Boerhaavia diffusa, Linn., var. pubes-
cens (365).
Amarantacee.
Amarantus melancholicus, Mogq., var.
tricolor; vulgo ‘Driti damudamu’
(366).
A. paniculatus, Moq., var. cruentus,
Mog. ; vulgo ‘ Driti.’—Introd. (367).
Euxolus viridis, Mog.; vulgo ‘Driti’
vel ‘ Gasau ni vuaka’ (368).
Cyathula prostrata, Blum. (369).
Polygonea.
Polygonum imberbe, Sol. (370).
Laurinee.
Hernandia Sonora, Linn.; vulgo ‘Yevu-
yevu’ vel ‘ Uviuvi’ (372).
Cassytha filiformis, Linn.; vulgo ‘ Wa-
luku mai lagi’ teste Williams (373).
Cinnamomum sp.; vulgo ‘Macou’ (376).
Laurinea. Arbor 15-20 ped. (374).
Laurinea (375).
Laurinea (377).
Laurinea ; vulgo ‘Siqa’ vel ‘Siga’ (378).
Laurinea; vulgo ‘ Lidi’ (903).
Thymelee.
Drymispermum sp. (379).
D. montanum, Seem. (sp. nov.) (380).
D. subcordatum, Seem. (sp. nov.);
vulgo ‘ Matiavi’ (381).
D.? sp. (382).
Leucosmia Burnettiana, Benth. (= Dais
disperma, Forst.); vulgo ‘Sinu damu’
vel ‘Sinu dina’ (383).
Wikstreemia Indica, C. A. Mey. ; vulgo
‘Sinu mataiavi’ (884). ‘
APPENDIX.
Santalacee.
Santalum Yasi, Seem. (sp. nov.) ; vulgo
‘Yasi’ (385).
Ceratophyllee.
Ceratophyllum demersum, Linn. (386).
Euphorbiaceae.
Euphorbiacea? ? (387).
Acalypha? (388).
Acalypha Indica, Linn. ? (389).
A. sp. (390). |
A. rivularis, Seem. (sp. nov.); vulgo
‘Kadakada’ (391).
A. virgata, Forst. (= A. circinata, A.
Gray); vulgo ‘Kalabuci damn’
(392).
A. grandis, Benth.; vulgo ‘Kalabuci’
(393).
Olaoxylon parviflorum, Jues. (394).
Mappa Molluccana, Sprengl.? (395).
M. macrophylla, A. Gray; vulgo
‘Mayu’ (396).
M. sp. (397).
M. sp. (419).
M. sp. (420).
Excecaria Agallocha,
‘Sinu gaga’ (398).
Manihot Aipi, Pohl.; vulgo ‘ Yabia ni
papalagi’ (399).
Curcas purgans, Juss. ; vulgo ‘ Wiriwiri
ni papalagi’ (400).
Ricinus communis, Linn. ; vulgo ‘ Bele
ni papalagi’ (401).
Omalanthus pedicellatus, Bth.; vulgo
‘Tadauo’ (402).
Aleurites triloba, Forst. ; vulgo ‘ Lauci,’
Tutui,’ vel ‘ Sikeci’ (403).
Euphorbia Norfolkica, Bois.; vulgo
‘Soto’ (404).
E. pilulifera, Linn. ; vulgo ‘ De ni osi’
(408).
E. Atoto, Forst. (E. oraria, F. Muell.)
(406, 904).
Rottlera acuminata, Vahl. (407).
Croton metallicum, Seem. (sp. nov.)
(408).
C. sp.; vulgo ‘Sacasaca loa’ (409).
C. sp. (an. var. n. 409?) (410).
C. Storckii, Seem. sp. nov. aff. C. Hillii,
F. Miill.; vulgo ‘ Danidani’ (905).
Linn.; vulgo
441
Codizum variegatum, A. Juss. ; vulgo
‘Sacaca’ vel ‘Vasa damu’ (411).
Melanthesa sp. (aff. M. Vit. Ideee) (412).
M. sp.; vulgo ‘Molau.’ Arbor (413).
Glochidion sp. (414).
G. ramiflorum, Forst.; vulgo ‘Molan’
(415).
G. cordatum, Seem. (sp. nov.) ; aff. G.
mollis (416).
Bischoffia sp.; vulgo ‘Koka.’ Arbor
(417).
Phyllanthus fruticosa, Wall. (418).
Orticee.
Elatostemma? mnemorosa, Seem. (sp.
nov.) (422).
Gironniera celtidifolia, Gaud.; vulgo
‘Nunu’ (428).
Missiessya corymbulosa, Wedd. ; vulgo
‘Matadra’ (424).
Maotia Tahitensis, Wedd.; vulgo ‘Walu-
walu’ (425).
Laportea Harveyi, Seem. (sp. nov.) ;
vulgo ‘Salato.’ Arbor 30-40 ped.
(426).
L. Vitiensis, Seem. (sp. nov.); aff. L.
photinifol. ; vulgo ‘Salato’ (427).
Fleurya spicata, var. interrupta, Wedd. ;
vulgo ‘Salato ni koro’ vel ‘Salata
wutivali’ (428).
Pellionia elatostemoides, Gaud. (429).
Procris integrifolia, Don, Hook., Arn
(430).
Behmeria Harveyi, Seem. (sp. nov.)
vulgo ‘ Rere’ (431).
B. platyphylla, Don (432).
B. platyphylla, Don, var. virgata, Wedd.
(433).
Malaisia ? sp.; Arbor (4344).
Moree.
Morus Indica, Linn.—Introd. (434 5).
Trophis anthropophagorum, Seem. (sp.
nov.) ; vulgo ‘Malawaci’ (435).
Ficus obliqua, Forst.; vulgo ‘Baka’
(436).
F. tinctoria, Forst. (437).
F. sp.; vulgo ‘Loselose.’ Frutex fruct.
edul. (488).
F. sp.; vulgo ‘ Loselose ni wai.’ Frutex
rivularis (439).
442
F. sp. (440).
F. sp. Frutex 16 ped., caule subsimpl.
(441).
F, sp. (442).
F. sp. (443).
F. sp. (444).
F. scabra, Forst. ;
(445).
F. aspera, Forst. (446).
F. sp. (447).
F, sp. (448).
vulgo ‘Ai Masi’
Artocarpee.
Antiaris Bennettii, Seem. Bonpl. t. 7.
(sp.nov.); vulgo ‘Mavn ni Toga’ (449).
Artocarpus incisa, Linn.,var. integrifolia,
Seem. (aff. A. Chaplashew, Roxb.) ;
vulgo ‘ Uto lolo’ v. ‘ Uto coko coko’
(450).
A. incisa, Linn. var. pinnatifida, Seem. ;
forma vulgo ‘ Uto dina’ dicitur (551).
A. incisa, forma vulgo ‘Uto Varaqa’
(452).
A. 55 » ‘Uto Kogo’
(453).
A. ” ” ” ‘ Balekana’
(454)
Be 55 54 » ‘Uto buco’
(455)
As. ay 35 » ‘* Uto assalea’
(456)
As ~ 55 $5 » ‘*Uto waisea
(457). :
A. 5 3 » *Uto Bokasi’
(458)
Bac » ‘Uto Votovoto’
(459).
A. incisa, Linn. var. bipinnatifida, Seem. ;
vulgo ‘Uto Sawesawe’ vel ‘ Kalasai’
((660).
Gyrocarpee.
Gyrocarpus Asiaticus, Willd.; vulgo
‘ Wiriwiri’ (561).
Celtidee.
Sponia orientalis, Linn. (562).
Sp. velutina, Planch. (568).
Chloranthacee.
Ascarina lanceolata, Hook. fil. (564).
A MISSION TO VITI.
Piperacee.
Peperomia sp. (565).
Macropiper latifolium, Mig. (566).
M. puberulum, Benth.; vulgo ‘ Yaqo-
yagona’ (567).
M. methysticum, Mig. ; vulgo ‘ Yagona’
(68).
Piper Siriboa, Forst.; vulgo ‘Wa
Gawa.’ Frutex scandens (569).
Casuarinee,
Casuarina equisetifolia, Forst.; vulgo
* Nokonoko’ (570).
C. nodiflora, Forst.; vulgo ‘Velao’
(571).
Cycadee.
Cycas circinalis, Linn.; vulgo ‘Roro’
(572).
Conifere.
Dacrydium elatum, Wall.; vulgo ‘ Le-
weninini’ vel ‘ Dakua salusalu’ (573,
_ 906).
Podocarpus (elatus, R. Br.?); vulgo
‘Kuasi’ (574).
P. (polystachya, R. Br.?); vulgo ‘Gagali
(575).
P. cupressina, R. Brown; vulgo ‘ Kau
tabua.’
P.? v. gen. nov.; vulgo ‘Kau solo’
(576).
Dammara Vitiensis,
*Dakua’ (577).
Seem.; vulgo
Orchidee.
Dendrobium Mohlianum, Reichb. fil.
(sp. nov.) (578).
D. crispatum, Swartz (579).
D. (580).
D. Millingani, F. Muell. (581).
D. biflorum, Sw. (582).
D. sp. (an var. preeced.?) (583).
D. Tokai, Reichb. fil. (sp. nov.) ; vulgo
‘Tokai’ teste Williams (584).
D. sp. (591).
Limodorum unguiculatum, Labill.
(585).
Bletia Tankervilliw, R. Brown (586).
Oberonia (587).
APPENDIX.
O. brevifolia, Lindl. (Epidendrum equi-
tans, Forst. (588).
O. Myosurus, Lindl. (589).
Microstylis Rheedii, Lindl. (Pterochilus
plantagineus, Hook. et Arn.) (590).
Appendicula (592).
Teniophyllum Fasciola, Seem. (Limo-
dorum Fasciola, Swartz) ; vulgo ‘De
ni caucau’ (593, 907).
Saccolabium sp. (594).
S. sp. (595).
Eulophia macrostachya, Lindl. ? (596).
Eria sp., aff. E. baccate, Lindl. ? (597).
Cirrhopetalum Thouarsii, Lindl. (598).
Rhomboda (599).
Sarcochilus (600).
Dorsinia marmorata, Lindl. (601).
Monochilus sp. (602).
Corymbis disticha, Lindl. (603).
Pogonia biflora, Wight (604).
Calanthe (605).
C. sp. florib: pallide aurantiacis (606).
C. veratrifolia, R. Brown (607).
Habenaria (608).
Orchidea (609).
O. (610).
O. (611). .
O. (612).
O. (613).
O. (614).
O. (618).
O. (616).
O. (617).
O. (618).
Scitaminee.
Musa Troglodytarum, Linn. ;
‘Sogo’ (619).
Gen. noy.; vulgo ‘Boia’ (620).
Alpinia sp. (621).
Curcuma longa, Linn.; vulgo ‘Cago’
(622).
Zingiber Zerumbet, Linn.; vulgo ‘ Beta’
(623).
Amomum sp. ; vulgo ‘ Cevuga’ (624).
Canna Indica, Linn.; vulgo ‘ Gasau ni
ga’ (625).
Dioscoree.
Helmia bulbifera, Kth.; vulgo ‘ Kaile’
(626).
vulgo
443
Dioscorea alata, Linn.; vulgo ‘Uvi’
_ (627).
D. nummularia, Lam.; vulgo ‘ Tivoli’
(628).
D. aculeata, Linn.; vulgo ‘Kawai’
(629).
D. pentaphyla, Linn. ; vulgo ‘ Tokulu’
(680).
Smilacee.
Smilax sp.; vulgo ‘Kadragi’ vel ‘Wa
rusi’ (63]).
Taccacee.
Tacca sativa, Rumph.; vulgo ‘ Yabia’
(682, 909).
T. pinnatifida, Forst.; vulgo ‘ Yabia
dina’ (633, 908).
Liliaceae.
Cordyline (634).
C. sp.; vulgo ‘Ti kula.’—Colitur (635).
_C. sp.; vulgo ‘Qai’ v. ‘ Masawe.’—Co-
litur (636).
Allium Ascalonicum, Linn. ; vulgo ‘ Va-
rasa.’—Colitur (637).
Geitonoplesium cymosum, Cunn. ; vulgo
‘Wa Dakua’ (638).
Dianella ensifolia, Red. (639).
Amaryllidee.
Crinum Asiaticum, Linn. ; vulgo ‘ Via-
via’ (640).
Astelica.
Astelia montana, Seem. (sp. nov. bacca
trilocul.) ; vulgo ‘ Misi’ (641).
Commelynea.
Commelyna communis, Linn. (= C.
pacifica, Vahl?) ; vulgo ‘ai Rorogi’
vel ‘ Rogomatailevu’ (642).
Aneilema Vitiense, Seem. (sp. nov. ;
florib. pallide cceruleis) (643).
Flagellaria Indica, Linn.; vulgo ‘Sili
Turuka’ vel ‘Vico’ (644, 910).
Joinvillea elegans, Gaud. (= Flagellaria
plicata, Hook. fil., 645).
Typhacee.
Typha angustifolia, Linn. ; vulgo ‘De
ni ruve’ (646).
444
Bromeliacee.
Ananassa sativa, Lindl. ; vulgo ‘ Balawa
ni papalagi.’
A. sativa, var. prolifera.
Pandanee.
Freycinetia Vitiensis, Seem. (sp. nov.)
(647).
F. Milnei, Seem. (sp. nov.) (648).
F. Storckii, Seem. (sp. nov.) (695).
F. sp. (696).
Pandauus odoratissimus, Linn.; vulgo
‘ Balawa’ vel ‘Vadra’ (649).
P. caricosus, Rumph.; vulgo ‘ Kiekie’
vel ‘ Voivoi’ (650).
Aroidee.
Alocasia Indica, Schott; vulgo ‘Via
mila,’ ‘ Via gaga,’ ‘ Via sori,’ v. ‘ Via
dranu’ (651).
Amorphophallus ? (sp. noyv.); vulgo
‘Daiga’ (652).
Cyrtosperma edulis, Schott (sp. nov.); '
vulgo ‘ Via kana’ (653).
Raphidophora Vitiensis, Schott. (sp.
nov.) ; vulgo ‘Wa lu’ (654).
Cuscuaria spuria, Schott (sp. nov.) (655).
Colocasia antiquorum, Schott, var. escu-
Jenta, Schott; vulgo ‘Dalo’ (655 4).
Aroidea (911).
Lemnacee.
Lemna gibba, Linn.; vulgo ‘Kala’
(656).
L. minor, Linn. ; vulgo ‘ Kala’ (657).
Palne.
Cocos nucifera, Linn. ;
dina.’
Sagus Vitiensis, Herm. Wendl. (Ccelo-
coccus Vitiensis, Herm. Wendl.) ;
vulgo ‘ Niu soria’ vel ‘Sogo’ (658).
Pritchardia pacifica, Seem. et Herm.
Wendl. (gen. nov.) ; vulgo ‘Sakiki,’
‘Niu Masei,’ vel ‘ Vin’ (659).
Kentia? exorrhiza, Herm. Wendl. (sp.
nov.) ; vulgo ‘ Niu sawa’ (660).
Ptychosperma Vitiensis, Herm. Wendl.
(gp. nov.) (662).
P. filiferum, Herm. Wendl. (sp. nov.) ;
vulgo ‘ Cagecake’ (661, 663).
vulgo ‘Niu
A MISSION TO VITI.
P, Seemanni, Herm. Wendl. (sp. nov.) ;
vulgo ‘ Balaka’ (664).
P. perbreve, Wendl.
P. pauciflorum, Wendl.
P. Pickeringii, Wendl.
Cyperacee.
Baumia sp. (665).
Hypolytrum giganteum, Roxb. (666).
Lepironia mucronata, Rich. (667).
Cyperus sp. (668).
C. sp. (912).
Mariscus levigatus, Rem. et Schult.
(669).
Kyllingia intermedia, R. Brown (670).
K. sp. (671).
Lamprocarya affinis, A. Brongn. (672).
Gahnia Javanica, Zoll. (673).
Fimbrystylis marginata, Labill. (674).
F. stricta, Labill. (675).
Scleria sp. (676).
S. sp. (677).
Eleocharis articulata, Nees ab Esenb. ;
vulgo ‘Kuta’ (678).
Graminee.
Zea Mays, Linn.; vulgo ‘Sila ni papa-
lagi’ —Cult.
| Oplismenus sp. foliis purpurascentib. ;
vulgo ‘Co damudamu’ (679).
| O. sp. foliis albo-maculatis—Cum pre-
cedente colitur (680).
| O. compositus, Reem. et Schult. (681).
Paspalum scrobiculatum, Linn. ; vulgo
‘Co dina’ (682).
Eleusine Indica, Gertn. (688).
Centotheca lappacea, Desv. (684)
Andropogon refractum, R. Brown (=
A. Tahitense, Hook. et Arn.) (685).
A. acicularis, Retz. (686).
A. Schenanthus, Linn. ;
boi? (687).
Cenchrus anomoplexis, Labill. (688).
Sorghum vulgare, Pers.—Colitur (689).
Digitaria sanguinalis, Linn. (690).
Saccharum floridum, Labill. (691).
Coix Lacryma, Linn.; vulgo ‘Sila’
(692).
Panicum pilipes, Nees ab Esenb. (698).
Bambusa sp. ; vulgo ‘ Bitu’ (694).
vulgo ‘Co
APPENDIX.
Equisetacee,
Equisetum sp.; vulgo ‘ Masi ni tabua’
(697).
Lycopodiacee.
Psilotum complanatum, Sw. (698).
P. triquetrum, Sw. (699).
Lycopodium cernuum, Linn. ;
*Ya Lewaninini’ (700).
L. flagellare, A. Rich. (701).
L. Phlegmaria, Linn. (702).
L. varium, R. Br. (703).
L. verticillatum, Linn. (704).
L. sp. (705).
L. sp. (706).
L, sp. (707).
L. sp. (708).
vulgo
Filices.
Acrostichum aureum, Linn.; vulgo
‘Boreti,’ vel, teste Williams, ‘ Caca’
(709).
Stenochlena scandens, J. Smith. (710).
Lomariopsis leptocarpa, Fee (711).
L. cuspidata, Fee (712).
Lomogramme polyphylla, Brack. (713,
421).
Goniophlebium subauriculatum, Blum.
(714).
Hemionitis lanceolata, Hook. (716).
H. elongata, Brack. (715).
Antrophyum plantagineum, Kaulf(717).
Diclidopteris angustissima, Brack. ;
vulgo ‘Mokomoko ni Ivi’ (718, 914).
Vittaria revoluta, Willd. (719).
V. elongata, Sw. (720).
Arthropteris albopunctata, J. Smith
(721).
Prosaptia contigua, Pres] (722).
Phymatodes stenophylla, J. Smith
(723).
Niphobolus adnascens, Sprengel, Sw.,
J. Sm. (724).
Loxogramme lanceolata, Presl (725).
Hymenolepis spicata, J. Smith (726).
Pleuridium cuspidiflorim, J. Smith
(727).
P. vulcanicum, J. Smith (729).
Phymatodes Billardieri, Presl (730).
P. alata, J. Sm. = Drynaria alata,
Brack.) (731.)
445
P. longipes, J. Smith; vulgo ‘Caca,’
teste Williams (732).
Drynaria musefolia, J. Smith (728).
D. diversifolia, J. Smith; vulgo ‘ Be-
vula,’ ‘ Teva,’ vel ‘ Vuvu’ (733).
Dipteris Horsfieldii, J. Smith ; vulgo
‘ Koukou tagane’ (734).
Meniscium sp. (735).
Nephrodium simplicifolium, J. Smith
(736).
N. sp. (737).
N.; vulgo ‘ Watuvulo’ (738).
N. sp. (739, 740).
Lastrea sp. (741).
Polystichum aristatum, Presl (742).
Nephrolepis ensifolia, Presl (743).
N. hirsutula, Pres] (744).
N. repens, Brack. (745).
N. obliterata, J. Smith (831).
Dictyopteris macrodonta, Presl (746).
Aspidium latifolium, J. Smith; vulgo
‘Sasaloa’ (v. Saloa ?) (747).
A. decurrens, J. Smith (748).
A. repandum, Willd (749).
Oleandra neviiformis, Cay. (750).
Didymochlena truncatula, Desv. (751).
Microlepia polypodioides, Presl (751 8).
M. ap. (752).
M. papillosa, Brack. (753).
M. Luzonica, Hook. (gracilis, Blum.)
(754).
M. flagellifera, J. Smith (Wall.) (755).
M. (fructif.) (An var. n. 7510? B.
Seem.) (756.)
Humata heterophylla, Cav. (759).
Davallia elegans, Sw. (757).
D. Fijiensis, Hook. (758).
D. faniculacea, Hook. (760, 762).
D. gibberosa, Sw. (761).
D. Moorei, Hook. (830).
Schizoloma ensifolia, Gaud. (763).
Synaphlebium dayallioides, J. Smith
(764).
8. Pickeringii, Brack. (765).
8. repens, J. Smith (766).
Sitolobium stramineum, J. Smith (767).
Cyathea medullaris, Sw. (768).
Trichomanes javanicum, Blum. (769).
T. rigidum, Sw. (780, 829).
T. meifolium, Bory (781).
446
T. bilingue, Blum. (= n. 780?) (782).
T. angustatum, Carm. = T. caudatum,
Brack. (783).
T. erectum, Brack. (784 ex parte).
Hymenophyllum (784).
H. formosum, Brack. (785).
H. parvu-lum, Poir. (786).
Todea Wilkesiana, Brack. (787).
Marattia sorbifolia, Sw.; vulgo ‘ Dibi’
(788).
Angiopteris evecta, Hoffm. (789).
Lygodictyon Forsteri, J. Smith; vulgo
‘Wa Kalou’ (790).
Gleichenia dichotoma, Hook. (791).
Schizeea dichotoma, Sw.; vulgo ‘Sa-
gato ni tauwa’ (792).
Actinostachys digitata, Wall. (793).
Ophioglossum pendulum, Linn. (794).
Blechnum orientale, Linn. (795).
Lomaria attenuata, Willd. (796).
L. elongata, Blume (797).
Pellewa geraniifolia, Fee (798).
Cheilanthes tenuifolia, Sw. (799, 800).
Adiantum lunulatum, Sw. ; vulgo ‘Kau
nivi vatu’ (801, 915).
A. hispidulum, Sw. (802).
A. aff. A. setwlonervi, J. Smith (803).
Pteris quadriaurita, teste Hook. Sp. Fil.
(804).
P. sp. (Litobrochia divaricata, Brack. ?)
(805).
P. tripartita, Sw. (806, 913).
P. esculenta, Forst. (809).
P. crenata, Sw.; vulgo ‘Qato,’ teste
Williams (811).
Litobrochia sinuata, Brack.; vulgo ‘Wa
Rabo’ (807).
L, sinuata var. (808).
L. comans, Presl (810).
Neottopteris australasica, J. Smith
(812).
Asplenium vitteforme, J, Smith (813),
A. falcatum, Lam. (814).
A. sp. (815).
A. brevisorum, Wall. (827).
A. obtusilobum, Hook. (828).
A. induratum, Hook. (816).,
A. lucidum, Forst. (817).
A. sp. (820).
A. resectum, Sm. (821).
A MISSION TO VITI.
A. laserpitiifolium, Lam. (822).
A. (Darea) sp. (784 ex parte).
Callipteris ferox, Blum. (= C. prolifera,
Hook. var.) (818).
C. (sine fructif.) (819).
Cryptosorus Seemanni, J. Smith (=
Polypodium contiguum, Brack. non
Sw. (823).
Diplazium melanocaulon, Brack. (824).
D. bulbiferum, Brack. (825).
D. polypodioides, Blume. (826).
Tenitis blechnoides, Sw. (? abnormal.)
(832).
Muse.
Leptotrichum flaccidulum, Mitt. sp.
nov. (841).
L. trichophyllum, Mitt. sp. nov. (inter
862).
Leucobryum laminatum, Mitt. sp. nov.
(844).
Leucophanes densifolius, Mitt. sp. nov.
(inter 862).
L. smaragdinum, Mitt. sp. nov. (inter
863).
Syrrhopodon tristichus, Nees (inter 846).
8. scolopendrius, Mitt. sp. nov. (848).
Meteorium longissimum, Dzy. et Molk
(inter 863).
M. (Esenbeckia) setigerum, Mitt. (Pi-
lotrichum, Sullivant) (846).
Trachyloma Junghuhnii, Mitt. (Hyp-
num C. Mueller) (842).
T. arborescens, Mitt. (845).
Neckera flaccida, C. Muell. (836).
N. Lepineana, Montagn. (863).
N. dendroides, Hook. (838).
Spiridens Reinwardti, Nees. (840).
Trachypus helicophyllus, Mont. (838).
Leskea glaucina, Mitt. (inter 847).
L. ramentosa, Mitt. sp. nov. (inter
863).
Racopilum _ spectabile,
863).
Sphagnum cuspidatum, Ehrh. (839).
Hsch. (inter
Hepatica.
Cheiloscyphus argutus, Nees
862).
Plagiochila arbuscula, L. et L. (inter
862).
(inter
APPENDIX.
P. Vitiensis, Mitt. sp. nov. (862).
P. Seemanni, Mitt. sp. nov. (864).
Trichocolea tomentella, Nees © (inter
862).
Radula amentulosa, Mitt. sp. nov. (inter
837).
R. scariosa, Mitt. sp. nov. (inter 837).
R. spicata, Mitt. sp. nov. (inter 837).
Lejeunia (Bryopteris) Sinclairii, Mitt.
sp. nov. (inter 843).
L. eulopha (Phragmicoma, Tay.) (inter
846).
Frullania deflexa, Mitt. sp. nov. (inter
884).
F. meteoroides, Mitt. sp. nov. (inter
834).
F. cordistipula, Nees (inter 846).
F. trichodes, Mitt. sp. nov. (inter 846).
Sarcomitrium plumosum, Mitt. (847).
Marchantia pileata, Mitt. (838).
Lichenes.
Sticta damecornis, var. caperata, Nyl.
(848).
8. (Stictina) filicinella, Nyl. (849).
447
Ramalina calicaris, Nyl.; vulgo ‘ Lumi’
(ni Vanua) (851).
Coccocarpia molybdea, Pers. (852).
Leptogium tremelloides, Fries (853).
Sticta (Stictina) quercizans, Ach. (854).
Sticta Freycinetii, Del. (861).
Verrucaria aurantiaca, Nyl. (865).
Parmelia peltata, Ach. var.
Fungi.
Rhizomorpha sp.; vulgo ‘Wa loa’
(855).
Lentinus sp. (856).
Polyporus sanguineus, Fries (857).
P. affinis, Fries (858).
P. hirsutus, Fries (859).
Hoomospora transversalis, Brebisson
860).
Agaricus (Pleuropus) pacificus, Berk.
Schizophyllum commune, Fries.
Xylaria Feejeensis, Berk.
Alga.
Hoomonema fluitans, Berk. (gen. nov.)
(860).
THE END.
JOHN EDWARD TAYLOR, PRINTER,
LITTLE QUEEN STREET, LINCOLN’S INN FIELDS.
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