Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924031261666 HUNTER’S LIFE IN SOUTH AFRICA. ° “@0BERTS.06 FIVE YEARS oF A HUNTER’S LIFE IN THE FAR INTERIOR OF SOUTH AFRICA, WITH NOTICES OF THE NATIVE TRIBES, AND ANECDOTES OF THE CHASE OF THE LION, ELEPHANT, HIPPOPOTAMUS, GIRAFFE, RHINOCEROS, &c. BY ROUALEYN GORDON CUMMING, ESQ., OF ALTYRE. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. NEW YORK: HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE. 1856. ES TO HIS GRACE THE DUKE OF ARGYLL. My pear Duke, I dedicate my “ ApventuREs In Arrica” to your grace for two reasons—to mark my respect as a kins- man, and because I know the interest you take in the sports of the field and in the habits of wild animals. My volumes lay claim to no other merit than that of a faithful narration of facts as they occurred; and having been written far away from literary appliances, and often on occasions when the cravings of hunger were a more pressing consideration than the graces of composition, I trust to your indulgence to overlook in the success of my rifle the failure of my pen. I am always, my dear duke, Your affectionate kinsman, RovaLEyn Gorpon Cummaine. Altyre INTRODUCTION As the reader who purposes to follow me through the five adventurous years I spent in the untrodden wilds of Southern Africa might like to know something of my previous career, I shall briefly state that the early portion of my life was spent in the county of Moray, where a love of natural history and of sport early en- gendered themselves, and became stronger and more deeply rooted with my years. Salmon-fishing and roe- stalking were my favorite amusements; and, during these early wanderings by wood and stream, the strong love of sport and admiration of Nature in her wildest and most attractive forms became with me an all-ab- sorbing feeling, and my greatest possible enjoyment was to pass whole days and many a summer night in solitude, where, undisturbed, I might contemplate the silent grandeur of the forest and the ever-varying beau- ty of the scenes around. Long before I proceeded to Eton I took pride in the goodly array of hunting tro- phies which hung around my room. In 1839 I sailed for India, to join my regiment, the 4th Madras Light Cavalry. Touching at the Cape of Good Hope, I had an opportunity of hunting several of the smaller antelopes, and obtained a foretaste of the splendid sport I was in after years so abundantly to en- joy- In India I procured a great number of specimens A2 viii INTRODUCTION. of natural history, and laid the foundation of a collec- tion which has since swelled to gigantic proportions.* Finding that the climate did not agree with me, I re- tired from the service and returned home, where, re- suming my old hunting habits, I was enabled, through the kindness of a wide circle of friends, to follow my favorite pursuit of deer-stalking so successfully that I speedily found myself in possession of a fine collection of select heads from most of the Scottish deer-forests. Growing weary, however, of hunting in a country where the game was strictly preserved, and where the contin- ual presence of keepers and foresters took away half the charm of the chase, and longing once more for the free- dom of nature and the life of the wild hunter—so far preferable to that of the mere sportsman—TI resolved to visit the rolling prairies.and rocky mountains of the Far West, where my nature would find congenial sport _ with the bison, the wapiti, and the elk. With this view, I obtained a commission in the Royal Veteran Newfoundland Companies. But I speedily discovered that the prospect of getting from the barrack square would be small, and that I should have little chance of playing the Nimrod while attached to this corps. I. accordingly effected an exchange into the Cape Rifle- men, and in 1843 found myself once more in the coun- try upon whose frontiers dwelt those vast herds of game which had so often fired my imagination, and made me long to revisit it. Immediately upon landing, I marched with my di- vision of the army of occupation, under the command * Which may now be seen in my South American Museum at the Chinese Gallery in London. INTRODUCTION. ix of Colonel Somerset, into the country of the Amapon- da Caffres, where we lay for some time under canvas— where our principal amusements were quail-shooting and throwing the assagai. Being disappointed in my expectations, and there being at that time no prospect of fighting, I made up my mind to sell out of the army, and to penetrate into the interior further than the foot of civilized man had yet trodden—to vast regions which would afford abundant food for the gratification of the passion of my youth—the collecting of hunting tro- phies and objects of interest in science and natural his- tory: and in this I ultimately succeeded to my heart’s desire. With regard to my African adventures, the following: pages must speak for themselves. Let me here state, however, that I was the first to penetrate into the in- terior of the Bamangwato country, and that my ax and spade pioneered the way which others have since fol- lowed. I should have pushed still further but that the great losses I experienced in cattle and horses prevent- ed me from so doing. During the many years I spent in the wilderness, my wagon was my only home. Even this I often de- serted ; and alone, or attended only by savages, pro- ceeded on distant hunting expeditions, leaving my few followers encamped around my baggage. Days and nights, on these occasions, have I passed in my sol- itary hunting-hole, near some drinking-place, watching the majestic carriage of the lion, the sagacious actions of the elephant, and the curious instincts of the count- less varieties of game that have passed within a few yards of me, quite unaware of the proximity of man. x INTRODUCTION. Whatever on those occasions I witnessed worthy of at- tention, I noted in my journal while the impression was yet fresh in my memory ; from this journal the follow- ing work is almost literally transcribed. Written un- der such circumstances, the reader will not look for the graces of style. The hand, wearied all day with grasp- ing the rifle, is not the best suited for wielding the pen. If I have in simple language given pleasure to the sportsman, or added one page to the natural history of Southern Africa, or to our knowledge of its tribes, I shall think myself amply repaid for my many wander- ings and watchings in a wild and savage land. Altyre, June, 1850. CONTENTS OF VOL I. CHAPTER I. Preparations for a Hunting Expedition — Cape Traders — Traveling — Trader at a Farm—Dangers of a Trader’s Life—Articles for Barter— Dissuasions from the Enterprise—My Outfit— Hunting Rheebok — Wild Flowers... --.. -20- ---2 -2-+ 2-20 eon rene eee e wees Page 17 CHAPTER II. Mysteries of Inspanning—Cape Wagon and its Farniture—Departure from Grahamstown—My head Servant leaves me—Impassable State of the Roads—My Wagon in a Fix—Change of Route—Singular In- stinct of the Honey-bird ...--... 22. cee. cone en eeee conn cone ne 32 CHAPTER III. Fearful Descent of De Bruin’s Poort—District lately deserted by Ele- phants—Noble Forest-trees—The Great Fish River-——Cunning Boers —-Burning Effects of the Sun—The Dutch Noé’s Green Tea Oint- ment—Skill of the Hottentots in ‘‘ Tapping the Admiral”——Beauti- fully wooded Country—The Village of Cradock—-South African Cli- mate—Countless Herds of Springbok-—-Mynheer Pocheter—The Way to make a Friend on the Thebus Flats—Hendric Strydom— Hunting for Springbok -—Extraordinary Migrations of these Ante- DO POS 6 sisis'cic eis nin aieeisinaieie Wis oe sects eceen beside eecinweneice 51 CHAPTER Iv. A Bustard shot—Flight of Locusts—Quagga Shooting in the Dark— Curious Mistake—Ostriches—A Sportsman napping—Leave Stry- dom’s Residence in quest of Wildebeests—Wildebeest Shooting— Meeting with a Brother Officer—Proceed to Colesberg—Additiong to Equipments 2... ce0e cen cece cnn cone cece cnee ce nees cone ncee 73 CHAPTER V. Departure from Colesberg—Jaging Springbok—Vast Herds of Game— Swarms of Flies—Oology—A Nomade Boer’s Encampment—Anec- dote of the Gemsbok—Cobus rides down a splendid old Bull Gems- bok—A. Night in the Desert—Paterson arrives—Bushmen—Their ex- traordinary Raids across the Desert.... 2.200002 eceee-----2-0- 88 xil : CONTENTS. CHAPTER VI. Hard Chase of an Oryx—A brindled Gnoo reduces himselfto x dead Lock,” and is taken—Paterson slays a Gemsbok and a Bull Wilde- beest—He leaves for Colesberg—Ostrich Eggs—Novel Method of carrying them—Anecdotes of the Ostrich—Affray with a Porcupine —He proves a rough Rider for my Horse—Narrow Escape from the Thrust of a dying Oryx—The grateful Water-root—Troops of Spring- boks cover the Face of the Land—Their Migrations—The finest shot at my Leisure—Beer Vley.....-..------ wn seen cons anne Page 102 CHAPTER VII. Leave Beer Viey—A Bushboy captured and enlisted as a Follower— Famous Sport with Wildebeest and Quaggas from a Hunting-hole— Water fails, and we march to the Great Orange River—Beautiful Ap- pearance of the River—Stink Vonteyn, a famous sporting Quarter— An Ostrich’s Nest—Bold Mountain Ranges—The Griqua Tribe, their Manners and Customs—An aticient Mimosa Forest—Residence of a Bushman—Successful Chase of a noble Bull Oryx ..--.-.----- 116 CHAPTER VIII. We leave Stink Vonteyn and reach the Vaal River—Wait-a-bit Thorns —Chase and kill a Buck Koodoo, and bivyouac on the Ground—Co- bus and Jacob abscond—Roan Antelope—We recross the Vaal River —Griqua Encampment—Stink Vonteyn again—A Flight of Locusts — A Salt-pan—Salubrious Climate—Boers attempt to ‘carry off Ruyter —A Cameel-dorn Forest—A Brindled Gnoo bayed by Wild Dogse— Habits of the latter... 2.02. 2225 cee cone nee ence enn e ence ee 135 CHAPTER IX. The Riet River—Nomade Boer Encampments—Surly Reception at a Boer’s Farm—Lions slain by the Boers—Cowardice of the Boers in Lion Hunting—Rumors of War between the Boers and Griquas— The Mirage of the Plains—Habits of the Blesbok--A knowing old Hog—A Snake under my Pillow—A Troop of Wild Dogs come upon me at Night in my Shooting-hole—The Roar of Lions—Curious Facts Concerning them .... 202. 2022 seen e ees cone cee cece eee eee 153 CHAPTER X. Boer Encampment—A Night in a Storm—A Fancy Costame—Fear- fal Encounter with a Lioness—*Colesberg” dreadfully mangled— Cowardice of Hottentots—We march back to Colesberg—Danger of being pluadered by the Rebel Boers—Arrival at Colesberg—The Troops w arch against the Boers—The Battle of Schwart Coppice CONTENTS. ‘ xiii Start for the distant Land of Elephants—The Hottentots make free with my Brandy, and mutiny—Leopards—Kuruman—Mr. Moffat, the good Missionary—Roasted Locusts.....-..-..-++-+++ Page 177 CHAFTER XI. Motito—The Bechuana Tribes—The mysterious great inland Lake- Blesbek and Wildebeest abundant—Park-like Country—We arrive at the beautiful Vale, of Bakatla—Dr. Livingstone, the Missiouary— Native Fashions at Church—Determine to push on to Bamangwato— The Natives follow me for Venison—Great Variety of Game—A dan- gerous Fight with a Herd of Buffaloes, two of which are slain—A Colony of Babocns—A Rhinoceros chases me round a Bush—Habits of the Beast—A noble Eland killed—An impromptu Steak—Slay a Rhinoceros, and lose my Way in the Forest.......--.-------. 199 CHAPTER XII. My Hottentots object to advance further into the Interior— A Boar Hont—We march through a charming Country—The Mountain Pass of Sesetabie—A Lion and Lioness inspect my Cattle, and the Lion pays for peeping—Hungry Hyenas sup upon the Cattle Furniture— The Camelopard- Description of its Habits— Booby, a Bechuana Kraal—Gun Medicine—Disastrous Finale to an Incantation—Native Conspiracy to prevent my further Progress .... 2.0. e--2e----- 221 CHAPTER XIII. The Guides try to mislead me—The Cattle and Horses dying from Thirst—Search for Water—Melancholy Anticipations—Directed to a Pool by the Flight of Birds — Chase and kill a Giraffe —Wandering Bechuanas point out my right Course — Miserable Condition of the Natives—Game Pitfalls — Mimosa Grove smashed by Elephants—A Rhinoceros charges me— Abundance of large Game—Lost in the Forest .-2. 200 cece wens ence cece wens cone ne ccernsececenence 241 CHAPTER XIV. The Bamangwato Mountains—The Elephant’s Fountain—A Troop of colossal Giraffes—Elephants drinking by Night—Habits of the Afri- can Elephant—Elephant Hunt—A Bull shot after a dangerous En- counter—Catting out the Tusks—Extraordinary Rocks—Mountain Retreat of Sicomy, King of Bamangwato—His Cunning—Barter Mus- kets for Ivory—His Majesty's curious Gun-practice—Trading for Na- tive Weapons... 20.222. nnn ene cece ners nee cece ceeeneee 257 xiv ' CONTENTS. CHAPTER XV. Take leave of Sicomy—Digging for Water—The Elephant’s Fountain again—A wounded Roan Antelope bays in the Water, and kills my Dogs right and left—Sicomy’s Camp again—We march through a beautiful Valley—Curious Instinct of the Rhinoceros Bird—A mighty Bull Elephant shot after a hard Conflict—Mutchuisho’s Attentions more charitable than pleasant—Cutting up an Elephant—A strange Scene—Baking the Flesh—Primitive Tobacco-pipes—Biltongue Fes- TOONS non ene none meee wees ween ewe e ene ce ee cone ww cmene Page 285 CHAPTER XVI. Elephant Spooring with the Natives—The Mystic Dice—Hunt in a Wait-a-bit Thorn Cover—Romantic Gorge in the Mountains—Sabié —Ancient Elephant Path — Ludicrous Native Signal—A noble Bull Elephant slain—Isaac, my Interpreter, dismissed—A Lioness bagged at one Shot—Drunkenness and Disorder in Camp—My Manner of taking the Field after the larger Game—Sicomy’s Followers desert TNO 0022 enn cen cee n woes rene meee nncn cece wane mcenaccsesesn SOF FIVE YEARS’ HUNTING ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. CHAPTER I. Preparations for a Hunting Expedition — Cape Traders — Traveling — Trader. at a Farm—Dangers of a Trader’s Life—Articles for Barter— Dissuasions from the Enterprise—My Outfit— Hunting Rheebok — Wild Flowers. Havine resolved to make a hunting expedition inte the interior of Southern Africa, my first object was to seek out some experienced person, able to give me the necessary information as to what purchases I should require to make in the way of wagons and oxen, and as to my outfit in general, and I accordingly pitched upon an individual of the name of Murphy, a trader in the interior, who, I had reason to believe, was better acquainted than any other person in Grahamstown with the frontiers of the colony, and the adjoining ter- ritories of the Griqua and Bechuana tribes, situated beyond the Great Orange River: "With this person I had already had the pleasure of becoming acquainted during the short time I was quartered in Grahamstown in the month of July, having been introduced to him by another trader, a man from my own land of Moray, famous among the Dutch Boers about and beyond the frontiers. This man’s name was Andrew Thompson, of Forres, one of three brothers, all of whom followed the same adventurous line of life, and were as steady, 18 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. hard-working, and determined young men as might be met with throughout the colony. As, in the course of the following pages, I may have occasion to allude to these traders, and others of a similar avocation, it will, perhaps, be as well to give the reader a sketch of the manner in which their oc- cupation is conducted. Each trader is supposed to be the proprietor of one or two ox-wagons. These they “load up,” from the large stores of the merchants in Grahamstown and Port Elizabeth, with every species of merchandise which the far-dwelling isolated Dutch Boers are likely to require. So supplied, they set out on their long journey, which usually occupies from six to eight months; at the end of which they return to the colony, enriched with immense droves of sleek oxen and fat wethers, selected from the numerous herds and flocks of the pastoral dwellers in the interior. The wagons of a trader generally contain every requisite for a farmer’s establishment: groceries, hardware, bales of cloth and canvas, haberdashery, saddlery, crockery —in short, every thing, from an awl for the Boer to mend his ‘“feldt schoens” or country shoes, to a roll of cherry-colored or sky-blue ribbon to tie up the bonny brown locks of his fair daughters, whose beauty, like that of Skye terriers, I fear, in many cases, consists in their ugliness. They, however, sadly lack the “ déga- gée” appearance of the Skye terrier, as their general air and gait might be more apily likened to a yard of pump-waiter. As the trader advances up the country and effects exchanges, he leaves the cattle or sheep which he has bartered in charge of their former master, picking them up on his return southward. When all his goods are disposed of, he generally winds up his barter by ex- CAPE TRADERS AND THEIR WAGONS. 19 changing the wagon or wagons which bore them for cash or oxen, or both, and then, purchasing a horse, he returns in light marching order to the colony. The price which a trader gives for a wagon is usu- ally from £40 to £60, and in war times often a thou- sand rix dollars, or £75. ‘The number of oxen which he usually obtains for it at the close of his journey is from forty to fifty, and these he is supposed to select himself. The value of the wagon is partly dependent on the character of the tent. Tents are of two kinds; the one being coarsely yet strongly constructed of green boughs fitting into iron staples along the sides of the wagon, and lashed together with strips of green hide so as to form a succession of arches overhead. These are kept in their position by means of long straight wands laid all along the outside of the arches, the whole frame-work being very strongly secured by the afore-mentioned strips of green hide. On the top of this are placed coarse Kaffir mats made of reeds, which act as a Scotchman (to use a sea-faring phrase) to keep the wagon-sail, which is of stout canvas, from chafing. The other variety of tent is of a less homely build, and is termed by the colonists a cap-tent wagon. It re- quires the hand of a skillful wagon-builder, and is much more elaborately finished, the wood which supports and composes the tent being all neatly sawed and planed, and fastened together with iron rivets. This description of wagon is preferred by the aris- tocracy among the Boers, as presenting a more dis- tingué appearance, when they drive their fraus and children on a round of visits, which they are constant- ly doing, or when flocking to the ‘“‘ Nachmal,” or com- raunion, which happens three or four times in the year. The former, or common wand tent, however, possessed 20 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. a great advantage over the cap tent, inasmuch as, in the first place, it is cheaper by £10, and, secondly, if broken in a capsize, which in Cape traveling is an affair of common occurrence, it is easily repaired on the spot; whereas the cap-tent wagon, if once upset, is irretriev- ably ruined. When a trader arrives on a Boer’s farm, he halts and walks up to the door to inquire where he is to “ out- span,” or unyoke the oxen, and also in what direction the oxen are to be driven to graze. At the door he is met by the baas, or master, generally pipe in mouth, who, cordially greeting him with one hand, raises his hat from his head with the other. The Boers lay great stress on this piece of etiquette, which has to be gone through with a whole string of juvenile Boers follow- ing in the rear, each incased in a very roomy pair of inexpressibles, and crowned with an immense broad- rimmed tile, nearly half the size of its wearer. Per- mission to outspan being obtained, and a few compli- mentary speeches interchanged, the trader inquires of the Boer if he has any fat oxen to handle or barter, to which the Boer either at once replies in the negative, or more commonly says, ‘Ido not know. What have you got on your wagon?” ‘The trader answers, “I have got a little of every thing, and all of the very best quality, and you shall have any thing you require as low as a trader can possibly sell it. I shall presently unload a, little for your inspection.” The Boer politely says, ‘“‘ No, no, mynheer, you must not offload ; it-would grieve me that mynheer should exert himself so much ;” to which the trader replies, ‘It is no trouble; we are accustomed to do it, and it is our business.” The trader then instructs his knecht, or head servant, to make a parade of the goods, and he then accompanies THE TRADER AT A FARM. . 21 the Boer into the house, where dinner will shortly make its appearance, to which the Boer invariably, in the most hospitable manner, makes every white stranger welcome. Here, ifthe trader is wide awake to his own interest, he will pay marked attention to the Noé or frau, as no bargain or transaction of any nature can be ratified with a Dutchman without her full concurrence and approval. The Dutch are particularly cleanly in their establishments and cooking, and, moreover, pos- sess a very fair notion of the culinary art, their tables in general being graced with several very excellent and substantial dishes. “When dinner is over, all hands re- sort to the wagon and overhaul the merchandise, where it is ten to one but the Noé will find about fifty differ- ent articles which she will prevail upon her husband to believe indispensable in the private economy of his establishment. Thus, when “ handling” once begins, it often goes on briskly, and from a Boer who at the outset declared himself independent of the trader’s sup- plies, as many as two or three, or even half a dozen, fat oxen may be obtained. As the trader knows well from past experience that the Boer will be sure to endeavor to abate his prices, he makes a point of asking a little more than he intends to take, so as to be able to give in to the Boer’s im- portunities, who, with a sly wink at his wife, congratu- lates himself on his shrewdness, and flatters himself that he has run a hard bargain. When the trader has collected all his cattle, he drives them by steady marches of from twenty to thirty miles in the twenty-four hours, which are performed. chiefly during the night, to Grahamstown or Beaufort, where he disposes of them to butchers. At the former place they are purchased for the use of the town, and by the 22 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. government contractors for the supply of the troops. At Beaufort, which is on the high road to Cape Town, they are purchased for the supply of the Cape Town market. The payments for the cattle are seldom, if ever, made in hard cash, the poor trader having to con- tent himself with approved bills, drawn at six and nine months, which in too many cases are never honored, the defaulter being found either bankrupt, or to have bolted for England or California. The life of a trader is hard and harassing, and he is often liable to very heavy losses by deaths from severe drought, distem- pers, and other causes; also from the chances of war, oxen straying and being found no more, overstocked markets, and non-payments as above, besides the dan- ger to which he is exposed from the attacks of wild beasts. During the time that he is engaged in driving his oxen, his rest is necessarily broken and disturbed, and, being compelled to watch his cattle every hour of the night, in all weathers, he is obliged always to have his clothes on, and to sleep when he can, after the man- ner of sea-captains in bad weather, who hang their nose on to a ratlin, and so take a nap. As an instance of the injury from ehances of war, I may here allude to the severe losses sustained by my friend Mr. Peter Thompson, who, during the war which ravaged the colony in the years 1846 and 1847, was returning to Grahamstown with a large herd of some hundred fine oxen, the well-earned proceeds of a laborious and toil- some expedition, when he was attacked in De Bruin’s Poort, a rugged and densely-wooded ravine, within one march of Grahamstown, by a band of the marauding Amaponda Kaffirs, armed with guns and assagais, who swept off the whole of his drove, he himself barely escaping with his life. ARTICLES OF COMMERCE. 23 In years when the prices of cattle are low, these traders occasionally vary their line of march, and, for- saking the Boers for a season, they load up a suitable cargo, and direct their course for the Bechuana tribes, from whom they obtain ivory, karosses (skin cloaks), and ostrich feathers, along with various curiosities, for which they obtain a ready sale in the Grahamstown market, where good ivery averages from 4s. to 4s. 6d. per pound. Karosses vary in price from £1 to £3 each, according to their size, kind, and quality. Ostrich feathers used to fetch from £5 to £6 per pound, but, partly owing to the feathers being less worn by the votaries of fashion in London, and partly to the late disturbances throughout Europe, the prices have great- ly fallen.* The articles required for trading with the Bechuana tribes consist of beads of all sizes and colors, brass and copper wire, knives and hatchets, clothing for both sexes, ammunition, guns, young cows, and she- goats. The two latter the trader obtains in barter from the Boers, Griqua and Koranna tribes, more immedi- ately adjacent to the. colony. Some writers have er- roneously stated that snuff and tobacco are a good cir- culating medium among the tribes in Southern Africa, but in the course of my experience I can scarcely re- member having ever obtained the smallest article in barter for either, not even a drink of milk. The natives have certainly no objection to receive these articles when given gratuitously, but are far too wide awake to place any great value upon them. During my career in Southern Africa I have had much experience in trading with the Bechuana tribes, and, as I shall have occasion to refer to my trading exploits in the course * From seventy-five to ninety good sized ostrich feathers weigh a pound. 24 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. of my narrative, I have entered into the above partion- lars, that the reader may at the outset form an idea of the manner in which these things are conducted. On making inquiries, I had the pleasure to find that, contrary to my expectation, both Andrew Thompson and Murphy were still in Grahamstown, where I had left them about three months before, ‘when I marched tlience into Caffraria with my regiment ; and the lat- ter, whom I found to be a confirmed tippler, was able in his few lucid moments to give me much valuable in- formation relative to the preparations which I required to make in the way of purchasing oxen and wagons, engaging servants, é&c., &c.; also various wrinkles as to the conducting of my establishment, the hours of marching, and the line of country which I had chalked out for my first expedition. Poor Murphy! he was as kind-hearted a creature as ever breathed. From the Ist till the 22d of October I was actively employed in making the necessary purchases and ar- rangements for my coming expedition, and in forward- ing my affairs, in which Murphy, during his sober in- tervals, most willingly assisted me. As the reader will observe, my establishment at my first outset was on a much more limited scale than upon subsequent expe- ditions. This was partly owing to the uncertainty which I felt as to the success of my sporting under- takings, and the length of time which I might feel in- clined to devote to this line of life. I was much in the dark as to what sport I might expect to realize, and what difficulties I should have to encounter, in the trip [ was about to make; the truth being that I could not find a single individual, either among the natives or the military, who could in the smallest degree enlighten me on the subject. PREPARATIONS AND DISSUASIONS: 25 The general impression among’ my military friends was, that any game which remained in the interior must have, ere then, retreated to such remote parts, far away in the territories of savage tribes, as to be ut- terly beyond the reach of any sportsman, however en- terprising ; and when they saw me bustling about, making my purchases, they used to say to me, “It is all nonsense your laying out your money in this way. Why don’t you rather go-home at once to your own country? We shall see you returning in a month or two, like those fellows who went on a shooting trip. last year, with a coup-de-soleil and an attack of dysentery, utterly disgusted with the country, and selling off all these things on which you are now expending so much capital.” The shooting party here alluded to consisted of one officer of the 7th Dragoons, two of the 27th, and others who, having obtained. a few weeks’ leave, and burning to distinguish themselves in a campaign against the feree of Southern Africa, had hired a wagon and pene- trated as far as the Thebus Mountain, where for a few days they enjoyed. some good sport among the black wildebeest and springboks which abound on the plains surrounding that mountain; till, having broken the stocks of their rifles in falls from their horses while im- petuously “jaging” the game, they returned to ‘head- - quarters, one suffering from coup-de-soleti, and the rest from dysentery brought on by drinking bad water, they having been. unfordanate in the vley beside which they had fixed-their.encampment.. My. gallant friend Lieu- tenant H——, of the 91st, was one of the most urgent in endeavoring to dissuade.me from my steadfast pur- pose of trekking up the country, and regommended: me rather to return with him to England, whither. he was Voi. 1—B 26 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. about to proceed. He and I had sent in our resigna- tion of her majesty’s service at the same time, and, fortu- nately for us, by some mistake our papers were mislaid at Cape Town, and not forwarded in the usual course, whereby we gained several months’ pay. H: , who, like many others of the military, entertained a profound disgust for the colony and every thing connected with it, at first could hardly believe that I was in earnest when I spoke of going up the country; and when con- vinced that such was my determination, he said, with a strong lisp which was habitual to him, “ Good G—, Cummin! you are thurely mad to remain longer in thith country after you have obtained leave to return to dear old England. I athure you, I had rather be a thoe-black in England than live in thith beathtly coun- try.” Notwithstanding these friendly dissuasions on the part of my acquaintance, I continued to prosecute my affairs so unremittingly, that on the 22d I considered my manifold arrangements complete, and, being much harassed and annoyed by the unavoidable delays to which I had been subjected, I was full of impatience to make a start. These delays were in a great measure occasioned by the weather, heavy and constant rains having fallen during the previous fourteen days, accom- panied with a cold wind off the Southern Ocean. This, of necessity, materially interfered with and delayed me in my arrangements, and had also the effect of render- ing the country perfectly unfit for locomotion, in many places cutting up the roads with rugged, impassable water-courses, and in low-lying districts converting them into deep, impracticable quagmires. Tt will heregge necessary to give a detailed account of my outfit, to put the reader at once in possession of OUTFIT. 27 the extent and nature of my establishment and camp equipage. My first object was, of course, to secure a traveling wagon, and I had the good fortune to obtain an excellent new cap-tent one, complete with all its gear ready for inspanning, from Mr. Ogilvie, of Gra- hamstown, for the sum of £60, which, as it eventually proved to be a right good.one, was decidedly a bargain. I very soon, however, found out, as I extensively: col- ‘ected specimens of natural history, that one wagon was insufficient; and not long after, in the town of Coles- berg, on the frontiers of the colony, I purchased a sec- ond, also a cap-tent wagon, with its necessary accom- paniment, a span of oxen; and at a. later period, as the reader will subsequently learn, I found it necessary to purchase a third, and became the proprietor of consid- erably: more than a hundred draught oxen. From an English farmer in the vicinity of Grahams- town I obtained a span of twelve excellent, well-trained, black, ziiiir-veldt oxen, which I judged suited for my work, they having been in the habit, with their late . master, of bringing in very heavy loads of wood to the Grahamstown market. Their price was £3 each; and as it is not unusual to see an.ox,in the best of spans, knock up on long marches, by Murphy’s advice I pur- chased two spare oxen of Mr. Thompson. My stud of horses as yet consisted of but two, which had been my chargers in the regiment. These were “ Sinon,” a stallion which I had bought of Major Good- man of the 27th, and “The Cow,” an excellent dark- brown gelding which I had obtained from Colonel Som- erset of.“ Ours.” I did not think it wise to lay out more money in horse-flesh in Grahamstown, as I should shortly have to pass through the Hantam, where most of the Boers breed horses extensively, which are famed 28 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. for their spirit and hardiness throughout the colony. I engaged four servants—namely, an Englishman called Long, as head-servant, a thorough Cockney, who, as I afterward learned, had formerly been a cab-driver in London, and whom I took into my service at Murphy’s recommendation, Long being supposed to possess a cer- tain degree of experience, having penetrated as far as the banks of the Orange River on a trading excursion: on his own account; but his heart, as the event proved, inclined more to worship at the shrine of Venus than at that of Diana. A certain little dark-eyed damsel, who acted as laundress to the military, and who was employed all day in driving her mangle, seemed entire- ly to engross his thoughts, Long frequently observing that “there was that sweet little creature obliged to drive a mangle who, ought rather to be sitting practi- cing at her ‘ pihanne.’” ’ My other three servants were natives. A wagon- driver named Kleinboy, a stout, active Hottentot, with the high cheek bones and woolly head of his race, and who was quite aw fatt at hisdepartment. Like many others of his countrymen, he was subject to fits of sulks, and much preferred reclining for hours under my wag- ons, or in the shade of a bush practicing on his violin, to looking after his master’s work. My leader’s name was Carollus: he was the third whom I had engaged in that capacity, the other two having absconded. He was a stout, powerful fellow, descended from the Mo- zambique races. He entered my service under cover of night, having absconded from Kingsley of “ Ours,” that gentleman, according to his assertion, being in the habit of administering a little wholesome correction with the jambok, which, on further acquaintance with him, I had reason to believe he richly merited. My SERVANTS AND STORES. 29 third native servant was Cobus, a Hottentot of light weight, the son of a veteran in my regiment. He ’list- ed in the capacity of after-rider, and proved to be first- rate in his calling, being the best horseman I met with in South Africa. He also, like Kleinboy, was liable to fits of sulkiness, through which I eventually lost him; for on one occasion, finding it necessary to inflict on -him a summary chastisement, he deserted from my service in consequence.* * The baggage, provisions, and general stores which I carried with me were as follows: Two sacks containing 300 lbs. of coffee, four quar- ter chests of tea, 300° lbs. of sugar, 300 lbs. of rice, 180 lbs. of meal, 100 lbs. of flour, five Ibs. of pepper, 100 Ibs. of salt, an anker of vinegar, several large jars of pickles, half a dozen hams and cheeses, two cases of gin, one anker of brandy, one half aum of Cape brandy, iron baking-pots with long legs, stewing and frying pans, sauce-pans and gridirons, tin eratanttupkets of various sizes, two large “‘fagie” or water-casks, an ac- companiment which no Cape wagon is ever without, two large flasks of tar to be subsequently mixed with hard fat for greasing the wheels when required, six dozen pocket knives, 24 boxes of snuff, 50 Ibs. of tobacco, 300 Ibs. of white, coral, red, and bright blue beads of various sizes; three dozen tinder-boxes ; one cwt. of brass and copper wire, which the Bechuana tribes, especially those dwelling to the east, readily barter and convert into ornaments for their legs and arms; two dozen-sickles, two spades, two shovels, one pickaxe, five superior American axes, two au- gers, one stock and thirty-six bits, hatchets, planes, drawing knives, sev- eral coarse chisels for wagon-work, a vice, blacksmith and carpenter's hammers, and a variety of other tools appertaining to both these profes- sions. A gross of awls, a gross of sail-needles, 50 hanks of sail-twine, two bolts of sail-canvas, several rolls of stout woolen cloths, two dozen gown- pieces, six dozen Malay handkerchiefs; thread, needles, and buttons; ready-made jackets and trowsers for my people, several dozen coarse shirts, Scotch bonnets, and cocker-nonnys (as for shoes, colonial servants are supposed to make them for themselves) ; afew medicines, arsenical soap, English and coarse Boer’s soap. Also, one large bell-tent, one mat- tress and bedding, one camp-table and chair, and my canteen, which most fortunately I had resolved to retain when disposing of my other military equipments: I found it a most serviceable and convenient ap: pendage during my five years’ wanderings in Southern Africa, My.sad- dlery consisted of two English hunting-saddles, two common saddles for servants, and one pack-saddle to conyey venison to camp. My ordnance was asfollows: three double-barreled rifles by Purdey, William Moore, 30 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. While I was laying in these stores, I once or twice amused myself by riding in quest of rheebok in the rugged and precipitous high grounds lying immediately to the south of Grahamstown. On one of these occa- sions I was accompanied by my cousin, Colonel Camp- bell of the 91st (one of the bravest and most distin- guished officers in the late Kaffir war, and, withal, about the best rifle-shot and keenest sportsman then in the’ colony), a brother of Captain Campbell of Skipness, the author of the ‘Old Forest-Ranger,” a work highly approved among Indian Nimrods. The rheebok is a species of antelope generally found in all mountain dis- tricts throughout Southern Africa, from Table Mount- ain to the latitude of Kuruman or New Litakoo. Of the rheebok there are two varieties: the rhooye-rhee- and Dickson of Edinburgh—the latter a two-grooved, the most perfect and useful rifle I ever had the pleasure of using ; one heavy single-barrel- ed German rifle, carrying twelve to the pound. This last was an old companion, which had been presented to me, when a boy, by my dear and much-lamented friend and brother-sportsman, the late James Duff, of Innes House. With this rifle, about ten years before, I had brought down my first stag on the Paps of Jura, and subsequently bowled over many a princely master-stag and graceful roebuck in his summer-coat, throughout the glens and forests of my native land. The Purdey was also a tried friend, both it and the heavy German having been with me in yeveral campaigns on the plains and in the jungles of Hisdostan. I had also three stout double-barreled guns for rough work when hard. riding and quick loading is required. Several lead-ladles of various sizes, a whole host of bullet-molds, loading-rods, shot-belts, powder- flasks,.and shooting-belts; three cwt. of lead, 50 lbs. of pewter for hard- ening the balls to be used in destroying the larger game; 10,000 prepar- ed leaden bullets, bags of shot of all sizes, 100 Ibs. of fine sporting gun- powder, 300 Ibs. of coarse gunpowder, about 50,000 best ‘percussion caps, 2000 gun-flints, greased patches and cloth to be converted into the same. I carried also several spare yokes, yoke-skeys, whip-sticks, rheims, and straps, two sets of spare linch-pins, all of which last articles belong to the wagon. With the above, and £200 in cash which I car- ried with me, I considered myself prepared to undertake a journey of at least twelve months among Boers or Bechuanas, independent of either. . RHEEBOK—SOUTH AFRICAN FLORA. 3l bok, or red rheebuck; and the vaal-rheebok, or gray theebuck. The range of the vaal-rheebok, to the north- ward, ceases in the latitude of the Long Mountains ly- ing to the south of Kuruman ; the other variety is met with as far north as the mountains in the territory of Sichely, chief of the Baquaines, about fifty miles to the north of the Kurrichane range. Both of these ante- lopes frequent high and rocky mountains. The man- ner of hunting them is alike ; and, when properly pur- sued, I think more nearly resembles Scotch Highland deer-stalking than the pursuit of any other antelope.* * Throughout the grassy mountains which the hunter must traverse in following this antelope, his eye is often gladdened by romantic dells and sparkling rivulets, whose exhilarating freshness strongly and pleas- ingly contrasts with the barren, rocky mountain heights and shoulders immediately contiguous. The green banks and little hollows along the margins of these streamlets are adorned with innumerable species of brilliant plants and flowering shrubs in wild profusion. Among these, to my eye, the most dazzling in their beauty were perhaps those love- ly heaths for which the Cape is so justly renowned. These exquisite plants, singly or in groups, here adorn the wilderness, with a freedom and luxuriance which, could the English gardener or amateur florist behold, he might well feel: disheartened, so infinitely does Nature in this favored clime surpass in wild exuberance the nurslings of his arti- ficial care. I remember being particularly struck with two -pre-emi- nently brilliant varieties, the one bearing a rose-colored, the other a blood-red bell; and though I regret to say that I am but a poor bota- nist, even in the heat of the chace I paused, spell-bound, to contem- plate with admiration their fascinating beauty. Others with their downy stems and waxen flowers of every gaudy hue, green, lilac, and various shades of pink, red,'and crimson; some of them with brown lips to the bell, flourished in the richer hollows of their native glen, or bloomed with equal loveliness along the arid cliffs and fissures of the overhanging rocks. Almost equaling the heaths in beauty, and sur- . passing them in the additional attraction of their scented leaves, a whole host of geraniums fill the balmy breeze with their delicious perfume. These are too well known to admit of any novelty in description; but I may mention, en passant, that they attain a far larger growth in their native soil than'l have heen in the habit of seeing in our green-houses. Small groups of the lofty, fair, conscious-looking iris rear their graceful heads along the edges of the streams. Their fairy forms reflected in 32 ADVENTURES IN SOUTII AFRICA. CHAPTER II. Mysteries of Inspanning—Cape Wagon and its Furniture—Departure from Grahamstown—My head Servant leaves me—Impassable State of the Roads—My Wagon in a Fix--Change of Route-—Singular In- stinct of the Honey-bird. On the 23d of October, 1843, having completed my final arrangements, and collected and settled all out- the waters, “they seem to stand like guardian Naiada of the strand.” Another tribe of plants, which particularly delighted me from old as- sociations, though not so striking as many of its neighbors for perfume and brilliancy, was composed of several varieties of the light, airy fern, or bracken, which, whether gracefully overshadowing the mossy stones, eternally moistened. by the bubbling spray of the stream, which they kissed. as it danced along, or vailing the gray lichen-clad masses of rock in the hollows higher up, strongly reminded me of those so conspicuous- ly adorning the wild glens in the mountains of my native land. Besides these, a thousand other gay flowers deck the hills and plains wherever the eye can fall. Endless varieties of the isia, the hemanthus, the amaryllis, the marigold, and a number of everlasting flowers, are scat- tered around with a lavish hand} also the splendid protea, whose sweets never fail to attract swarms of the insect tribes, on which sev- eral bright kinds of fly-catchers, their plumage glancing in the noonday sun, are constantly preying. Further down these water-courses, in the dense, shady ravines, the jungle is ornamented with long, tangled fes- toons of different creepers, among which the wild jessamine ranks fore- most, hanging in fragrant garlands amid the shaggy lichens, and bunch- es of bright orange-colored mistletoe, for which the forests of Africa, in the vicinity of her sea-coasta, are so remarkable. While touching on the floral beauties of the hills more immediately adjoining the sea- coast, I may remark that here are the great nurseries for heaths and geraniums. As the traveler advances up the country, these gradually disappear, and, together with the animal kingdom, the vegetable world assumes entirely new features; the colonial forest-trees and bushes, herbs and plants, being succeeded by a vast and endless world of love- liness; unseen, unknown, untrodden, save by those varied multitudes of stupendous, curious, and beautiful quadrupeds, whose forefathers have roamed its mighty solitudes from primeval ages, and with whom I afterward became so intimately acquainted. CATTLE IMPOUNDED. 33 lying debts, the weather, which had been wet and stormy for many days past, assuming a more settled appearance, I resolved to ‘‘inspan” and “trek,” which the reader will bear in mind mean to yoke and march. I accordingly communicated my intentions to my fol- lowers, and dispatched my leader Carollus to the neigh- boring mountains, where my cattle were ‘supposed. to be pasturing, to bring them up. . He expended the great- er part of the day in searching for them in vain about their wonted feeding-ground: at length, late in the aft- ernoon, he chanced to meet a comrade, who informed him that the oxen he was seeking were safely lodged in the “skit-kraal’” or pound, Colonel, Somerset of “Ours” having detected them in the act of luxuriating in a field of green forage. This pleasing intelligence demanded my immediate attendance at the skit-kraal, where, by a disimbursement of 9s:, I obtained their release. Having secured my oxen, my next business was to find my servants, who were’ all missing. Long, as I expected, was found gallantly assisting the dark-eyed heroine of the mangle, and Kleinboy and Cobus were discovered in a state of brutal intoxication, stretched on the greensward in front of one of the canteens, along with sundry other wagon-drivers and Hottentot Venus- es, all in the same glorious condition, having expended on liquor the pay which they had extracted from me in advance on the plea of providing themselves with nec- essaries. Drunk as they were, Carollus, who was so- ber, managed to allure them to the wagons, and, Long assisting, the inspanning commenced. As no man who has not visited the Cape’can form Siny idea of the man- ner in which this daily operation is performed, it will here be necessary to explain it, and to say a feW more words concerning the structure of a wagon. B2 34 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. The Cape wagon is a large and powerful, yet loosely- constructed vehicle, running on four wheels. Its ex- treme length is about eighteen feet, its breadth varying from three and a half to four feet; the depth of the sides is about two feet six inches in front, but higher toward the back of the wagon. All along the sides two rows of iron staples are riveted, in which are fas- tened the boughs forming the tent, which arches over the wagon to a height of five feet, with an awning of Caffre mat, and a strong canvas sail over all, with “ fore-clap” and “after-clap,” which is the colonial name for two broad canvas curtains, that form part and parcel of the sail, and hang in the front and rear of the wagon, reaching to within a few inches of the ground. In the front is placed a large chest occupying the ex- treme breadth of the wagon, on which the driver and two passengers of ordinary dimensions can sit abreast. This is called the fore-chest, and is secured from sliding forward by two buffalo rheims, or strips of dressed hide, placed across the front of it, and secured to the sides. A similar chest is fastened in like manner to the rear of the wagon, which is called the after-chest. Along the sides of the wagon and outside of it are two longer and narrower chests called side-chests. These are sup- ported by two horizontal bars of hard wood riveted to the bottom of the wagon. The side-chests are very convenient for holding tools, and all manner of odds and ends too numerous to mention. The fore and after chests are likewise extremely useful for containing clothing, ammunition, and a thousand small articles in daily use. Along the sides of the tent are suspended rows of square-cut canvas bags, called side-pockets, in which*the traveler keeps his hair-brushes and combs, razors, knives, tooth-brushes, soap, towels, or any thing THE CAPE WAGON. 35 else which he may wish to have at hand. I used to devote one to contain my luncheon, which often con- sisted of a slice of elephant’s trunk. The traveler sleeps upon a sort of cot, termed a “ car- dell.” This cardell is a light, strong, oblong frame, about eight feet in length, and occupying the breadth of the wagon. It is bored all round with small holes, through which strips of hide are interlaced, forming a sort of net-work on which the mattress rests. This cot is slung across the wagon, and is attached with thongs to the bows of the tent, its elevation being regulated by the cargo, which is carefully stowed away beneath it in the body of the wagon. Suspended underneath the hind part of the vehicle is a strong wooden frame- work called the trap, on which the pots and gridirons are lashed during a march. The wagon is steered. by a pole, called the dissel-boom, to the end of which is fastened the trek-tow, a stout rope formed of raw buf- falo-hide. It is pulled by a span, or team, consisting of twelve oxen, which draw the wagon by yokes fas- tened along the trek-tow at regular intervals by means of strips of raw hide. Passing through each end of the yoke, at distances of eighteen inches from one another, are two. parallel bars of tough wood about eighteen inch- es in length; these are called yoke-skeys. In inspan- ning, the yoke is placed on the back of the neck of the ox, with one of these skeys on either side, and toward the ends are notches.in which is fixed the strap, made of twisted hide; this, passing under the neck of the ani- mal, secures him in the yoke. Besides these straps, each pair of oxen is strongly coupled by the buffalo rheims, which are used in caich- ing and placing them in their proper order preparatory to inspanning them: a rheim is a long strip of prepared 36 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. hide with a noose at the end: it is made either of ox or buffalo hide, and is about eight feet long. A wagon is also provided with a tar-bucket, two powerful iron chains which are called the rheim-chains, and a large iron drag called the rheim-schoen ; also the invariable whip iid jambok ; the former consisting of a bamboo pole upward of twenty feet in length, with a thong of about twenty- five feet, to the end of which is sewn with “rheim-pys,” or strips of dressed steinbok-skin, the ‘after-slock,” and to this again is fastened the “ fore-slock,” corresponding with the little whip-cord lash.of the English coachman. The “ fore-siock,” about which the wagon-drivers are very particular, is about’ a yard in length, and is formed of a strip of the supple skin of some particular variety of antelope prepared in a ‘peculiar manner. The skins of only a few species of antelopes are possessed of suf- ficient toughness.for this purpose. Those most highly prized among the colonists are the skins of the harte- beest, koodoo, blesbok, and bushbuck; when none of these are to be obtained, they use the skin of a he- goat, which is very inferior. The colonial wagon- driver wields this immense whip with great dexterity. and grace. As he cracks it he produces a report nearly equal to that of a gun, and by this means he signals to his leader, who is perhaps herding the oxen at the dis- tance of a mile, to nets them up when it is time to inspan. The “ jambok” is another instrument of persuasion, indispensable in the outfit of every Cape wagon.- It is made of the thick tough hide either of the white rhinoc- eros‘or hippopotamus. Its length is from six to seven feet; its thickness at the handle is about an inch anda half, and it tapers gradually to the point. These ‘“iamboks” are exceedingly tough and pliant, and are INSPANNING. 37 capable of inflicting most tremendous chastisement upon the thick hides of sulky and refractory oxen. Those manufactured from the skin of the hippopotamus are very much superior to those of the rhinoceros, being naturally of a much tougher quality. If properly pre- pared, one of these will last for many years. A smaller description of ‘“jambok” is manufactured for the benefit of horses, and may be seen in the hands of every horse- man in the colony. ‘When the leader brings up the oxen io the wagon to .be inspanned, the wagon-driver, if possible, sends an- other Hottentot to his assistance, especially if any of the oxen in the span happen to be young or refractory. These, armed with a huge “jambok” in one hand, and a handful of stones in the other, one on either flank, with shouts, yells, and imprecations, urge forward the unwilling team toward the yokes, where the driver is standing with the twelve long buffalo rheims hanging on his left arm, pouring forth a volley of soothing terms, such as, ‘Ah! now, Scotland! Wo ha, Blau- berg! you skellum, keer dar Carollus for Blauberg, ye stand somar da; ich wichna wha yo hadachta ist.” (Turn there for Blauberg; you stand there in an ab- sent state, I do not know where. your ideas are.) *¢ Holland, you ould Myfooty! (‘ Myfooty” is a com- mon Hottentot term, which I would defy even them- selves to construe. The Dutch word “somar,” men- tioned above, is also a word to which I think I could * challenge the most learned schoolmaster in the colony to attach any definite meaning. It is used both by Boers and Hottentots in almost every sentence; it is an answer to every question; and its meanings are endless.) ‘‘Slangfelt, you neuxel!” (Snakefield, you - humbug!) “Wo ha, now, Creishmann! (Crooked 38 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. man.) ‘“Orlam, you verdomde Kind, vacht un bidgte, ich soll you krae.” “ Civilized ! you d—d child; wait a bit, I'll serve you out.) “ Vitfoot, you duivel! slahm dar fir Vitfoot, slahm ihm, dat he barst!” (Whitefoot, you devil! flog there Whitefoot; flog him till he bursts.) “Englandt, you ould ghroote-pench! Ahnow! Wo ha! Ye dat so lowe ist in die shwor plach, und dharum so vees at inspanning! Vacht un bidgte, ich soll a plach for you aitsuch. Ye lob da for nett so as ye will, mar ich soll you arter bring, whar ich kann you mach like baikam.” (England, you old big paunch! Ah, now! Woha! You who are so lazy in the heavy place, and nevertheless so vicious at inspanning. Wait a little. I shall seek out a place for you! You tramp there in front, exactly as you please; but I will yoke you further back, where I can reach you with facility.) This is said in allusion to “ England’s” having lately been in the habit of being yoked in the front of the team; and if it is very long, the driver can not reach the leading oxen with his whip without descending from the box, and, therefore, when a fore-ox becomes lazy, he is yoked further back in the team, that he may have the full benefit of the persuasive “ fore-slock.” ‘While the driver’s tongue is pouring forth this flow of Hottentot eloquence with amazing volubility, his hands and feet are employed with equal activity ; the former, in throwing the open noose of the rheim, lasso- like, over the horns of each ox, and drawing it tight round ¢hem as he catches him; the latter in kicking ° the eyes and noses of those oxen which the jamboks and shouts of the leaders behind have driven too far in upon him. At this moment “ Blauberg,” who is an old - offender, and who acquired in early youth the practice which he has never relinquished of bolting from the , A REFRACTORY OX, 39 team at the moment of inspanning, being this day un- usually lively, not having had any severe work for some weeks, suddenly springs round, notwithstanding Klein. boy, well aware of his propensities, has got his particu- “lar rheim firmly twisted round his hand; and having once got his tail where his head ought to have been, and thus deprived Kleinboy of all purchase over him, he bounds madly forward, heedless of a large sharp stone with which one of the leaders salutes him in the eye. By his forward career, Carollus is instantly dashed to the ground; and Kleinboy, who has pertinaciously grasped the rheim in the vain hope of retrieving the matter, is dragged several yards along the ground, and eventually relinquishes the rheim, at the same time losing a good deal of the outer bark of his unfortunate hand. Away goes Blauberg in his headlong course, tearing frantically over hill and dale, his rheim flying from his horns like a streamer in the wind. His course lies right across the middle of the Cape-corps barracks, where about forty or fifty riflemen who are lounging about, parade being over, rush to intercept his course, preceded by a pack of mongrel curs of every shape and size; but in vain. Blauberg, heedless of a shower of sticks and stones hurled at his devoted head, charges through the midst of them, nor is he recovered for the space of about two hours. The rest of the team, seeing the driver sprawling on the ground, as a matter of course follow Blauberg’s ex- ample: instantly wheeling to the right and left about, away they scamper, each selecting a course for himself, some with and others without the appendage of the streamers. ‘The Hottentots, well aware that it will be useless to follow Blauberg in the usual way, as he would probably lead them a chase of four or five miles, * 40 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. now adopt the most approved method usually practiced in such cases. They accordingly drive out a small troop of tamer oxen, with which they proceed in quest of the truant. ‘This troop they cunningly induce Mr. Blauberg to join, afd eventually return with him t#™ the wagon, the driver, with pouting. lips and the sweat running down his brow, pouring forth a torrent of threat- ened vengeance against the offending Blauberg. The inspanning is then once more commenced as before ; and Blauberg, being this time cautiously placed in a central position, well wedged up by the other oxen, whereby he is prevented from turning about, is lassoed with the strongest rheim, and firmly secured to the _ steady old ox who has purposely been driven up beside. him. The twelve oxen are soon all securely yoked in their proper places; the leader has made up his “ fore- tow,” which is a long spare rheim attached round the horns of each of the fore or front oxen, by which he leads the team, and inspanning is reported to be accomplished. Iomitted to mention that the two fore-oxen, and the two after-oxen, which are yoked one on either side of the ‘dissel-boom” or pole, are always supposed to be the steadiest, most intelligent, and tractable in the team. The two fore-oxen in particular, to be right good ones, require a combination of excellences, as it is indispensable for the safety of the wagon that they thoroughly understand their duty. They are expect- ed, unguided by reins, to hold the rarely-trodden roads which occur throughout the remoter parts of the colony either by day or night; and so well trained are these sagacious animals, that it is not uncommon to meet with a pair of fore-oxen which will, of their own accord, hold the “ spoor” or track of a single wagon which has. perhaps crossed a plain six months previously. _ é THE JOURNEY BEGUN. 41 In dangerous ground, however-——where the narrow road winds through stones and rocks, or along the brink of a precipice; or where the road is much intersected water-courses, and bordered by the eternal hillocks raised by the white ants, which are of the consistence of a brick, being formed, during damp weather, of clay, which the sun afterward hardens; or where the “aard- varcke,” or ant-bear, with his powerful claws, has undermined the road with enormous holes—the fore- oxen, however trustworthy, should never be left to their own devices, but the leader should precede them, lead- ing by the tow. This safe and highly necessary pre- caution is, however, rarely practiced by the ruffianly Hottentots if the “‘ baas” or master is not present, these worthies preferring to sit still and smoke their pipes or play their violins during the march to performing their duty, thus frequently exposing their master’s property to imminent peril. It is thus that more than half the capsizes, broken axle-trees, broken dissel-booms, and smashed cap-tents, daily occur throughout the colony. All being now in readiness, and some pots and spades, which the Hottentots, as'a matter of course, had omit- ted to stow away in their proper places, being securely lashed on the trap and to the sides of the wagon, the illustrious Kleinboy brandishes his huge whip, and, cracking it with a report which loudly reverberates throughout the walls and houses of the Cape-corps bar- tacks, shouts out, with stentorian lungs, “ Trek, trek, you duivels! Rhure y’lla dar vor, you skellums! Ane spoor trap, you neuxels! Tabelberg, you ould kring! Trek, you lowe paar marys. “Schneeberg, you léwe Satan! Blauberg, yeu duivel’s kind!” (Draw, draw, youdevils! Move yourselves forward there, you skel- lums! Tramp all in the same track, you humbugs' 42 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. Table Mountain, you old ring! Draw, you lazy troop of mares! Snow Mountain, you lazy Satan! Blue Mountain, you child of the devil!) At the same mo- ment he catches the refractory Blauberg the most ter- rific wipe round the ribs with his fore-slock, accom- panied by a sharp report like the discharge of a pistol, upon which a cloud of blue hair is seen to fly from the ox, and a long red streak, down which the blood copi- ously flows, denotes the power of the weapon the driv- er so mercilessly wields over the backs of his horny team. At last the huge and heavily-laden wagon is in motion, and rolls lightly along after the powerful oxen, which on level ground seem scarcely to feel the yokes which lie across their necks. Requiring to pick up several large parcels at the stores of some of the merchants in the town, we trek- ked down the main street of Grahamstown, and in passing the shops of the butchers and bakers, laid in a large supply of bread and fresh meat for immediate use. Before we had proceeded far, some sharp-sighted Hottentots came running after us, calling out that a fountain of tiger’s milk had started in the stern of the wagon; and on halting, we discovered that several loose cases of gin which I had purchased for immediate use, and which had not been properly stowed, had sprung aleak. The Hottentots seemed to regret amazingly the loss of so much good liquor, and endeavored with their hands to catch it as it fell. Owing to the various delays which had ‘occurred during the day, I did not get more than half a mile clear of Grahamstown when the sun went down; and there being then no moon, I deem- ed it expedient to halt for the night. We accordingly outspanned; and the Hottentots, having secured the oxen to the yokes, and picketed my two horses on the FIRST DAY’S MARCH. 43 wheels, requested my permission to return to the town to take another farewell of their wives and sweet-hearts. This I did not deem altogether prudent; but knowing well that if I withheld my consent they would go with- out it, I considered it best to comply with a good grace; and granting a general leave of absence, took on my- self the charge of the castle which was destined to be my home during the next five years. The Hottentots, strange to say, according to their promise, returned to the wagon during the night, and next morning, at earliest dawn of day, I roused them, and we inspanned. When this was accomplished, my head servant Long not appearing, we marched with- out him; but we had only proceeded about three miles when he managed to overtake us, the road being hilly and very soft, owing to the recent rains. On coming up and recovering his breath, he expressed himself very much disgusted at my starting without him, when IT took the liberty of explaining that I expected my servants to wait for me, and not that I should tarry for them. Our progress was considerably impeded by the bad state of the roads, and at ten A.M. we halted for breakfast beside a pool of rain-water, having perform- ed a march of about nine miles. Here, having out- spanned our oxen, we set about preparing our gipsy breakfast: one collected sticks for the fires, another filled the kettles at the adjoining “vley,” while Long and I were busied in spreading the table and dusting the beef-steaks with salt and pepper. Having permitted the oxen to graze for a few hours, we again inspanned, holding the high road for Somer- set; and about sundown we halted for the night on the farm of a Mr. Fichett, a great sheep-farmer, who re- ceived me hospitably, and invited me to dine with him. 44 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. Here I met Captain Codrington, who had lately sold out of the 7th Dragoons. Our march this day lay through a succession of low, undulating hills, richly clothed with a variety of grasses, herbs, and flowers, with here and there large patches of dwarfish evergreens. I had directed my Hottentots to kraal the oxen that night, with the intention of making an early start on the fol- lowing morning, but the herd managed to lose them in the thick underwood. They were, however, recovered at an early hour on the following morning, and, having breakfasted, I was about to proceed, when Long, with a face worthy of his name, came up to me with a whole tissue of dire complaints about his personal inconven- iences, the most galling of which appeared to be his having to sleep on the ground in the tent. On my friend’s advancing these objections, I saw very plainly that he was not the man for my work, as the life before us was by no means likely to be one of tuxury; so, having made over to him his impedimenta, and paid him his month’s wages, I wished him a safe return to Grahamstown. It was a lovely day, with a bright blue sky over head, covered with light, fleecy clouds, and the trees and shrubs, freshened by the recent rains,.emitted an aromatic perfume. Having proceeded some miles, we commenced ascending the Zuurberg range, where we were met by two wagons from Somerset, laden with oranges for the Grahamstown market, of which I pur- chased several dozen, and found them excellent. The drivers of these wagons informed me that the road in advance was almost impassable, owing to the recent heavy rains. Although their oxen were better than mine, and their wagons lighter by some thousand pounds, they had had great difficulty in coming on, and STUCK IN THE MUD. 45. they recommended me to retrace my steps, and, cross- ing the country, try:the other road by De Bruin’s Poort. Notwithstanding their remonstrances, I resolved to push on and give it a trial. About mid-day J outspanned for two hours, to let the cattle graze ;. after which, having proceeded a few miles, we found the road so cut up that we were obliged to abandon it, and trek along the rugged hill-side, holding a course parallel to it. Marching in front, and sinking up to my ankles in mud at every step, I endeavored to select the hardest ground; on which the wagon might follow. The ground now every moment became worse and worse; the panting oxen, straining every nerve to keep the wagon in motion, and halting every hundred yards to take breath. At length the wheels suddenly sank deep into the soil, and became immovably fixed, upon which we made loose our shovels and pickax, and worked hard for half an hour, clearing away the soil in front of and around the wheels; which being accom- plished, we rigged out a fore-tow and extra yoke to in- span my two spare oxen, and then set our whole four- teen to draw, but they. could not move the wagon an inch. We then lightened it of a part of the cargo, and after half an hour’s further labor we had relieved it of upward of three thousand pounds; but still the oxen, notwithstanding the most unmerciful application-of both whip and jambok, failed to move it. The thought then struck me of pulling it out backwards we accordingly cast loose the trek-tow, and, having hooked on the long span or team to the after part of the wagon, we suc- ceeded in extracting it from its deep. bed. We next proceeded with much care and trouble to stow away the baggage which we had removed; and the oxen being again placed in their position, we resumed our journey ; 46 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. but, before we had gone three hundred yards, the wagon again became ingulfed, sinking into the earth to such a depth that I half expected it would disappear alto- gether. The nave of the wheel was actually six or eight inches below the surface. This put us at our wits’ ends, and I began to think that, if this was to be our rate of traveling, my hair would be gray ere I reached the land of elephants. A few minutes after this had occurred, another wagon. meeting us from Somerset hove in sight, but shortly stuck fast within a quarter of a mile of us. Its owner, an Englishman, an Albany transport-rider or carrier, of the name of Leonard, now came up and requested me to lend him my. oxen to assist him in his difficul- ties, which I did, he promising, in return, to help me out of mine; but it was not until unloaded of the en- tire cargo that they succeeded in extricating it; after which, with considerable trouble, they came up to us. We now hooked on to my wagon both spans, amount- ing to twenty-six strong oxen, the drivers standing one on either side, with their whips ready at the given sig- nul to descend upon the devoted oxen. I myself, with one of the Hottentots, armed with the jamboks, stood by the after-oxen, upon whom, in a dilemma of this sort, much depends.. Every man and beast being. at their post, the usual ery-of *“ Trek, trek!” resounded on all sides, accompanied by a torrent of unearthly yells and abusive epithets ; at the same time the whips were plied with energetic dexterity, and came down with startling reports on the backs of the oxen through- out all parts of the team. The twenty-six oxen, thus urged, at the same moment concentrated their ener- gies, laying a mighty strain on the gear. Something must yield, and accordingly my powerful buffalo trek- A BAD FIX. ‘ 47 tow snapped asunder within a few feet of the dissel- boom. The trek-tow being strongly knotted together, a second attempt was made, when it again snapped in a fresh place. We then unhooked the long drag-chains from beneath the wagon, wherewith having fortified the trek-tow, we made a third trial. The cunning oxen, having now twice exerted themselves in vain, and being, well aware that the wagon was fast, according to their usual custom, could not be induced to make any further effort, notwithstanding the wagon-drivers had inflicted upon them about half an hour’s terrific flogging, till the sides of half of them were running down with gore. In cases of this sort, the oxen, instead of taking properly to their work, spring about in the yoke, and turn their tails round where their heads should be, invariably snapping the straps and yoke-skeys, and frequently splitting the yokes. In the present instance my gear did not escape ; for, after ‘battling with the oxen till the sun went down, and smashing the half of my rheims, straps, and skeys, and splitting one of my yokes, we were obliged to drop it for the night. We cast loose the oxen, and, driving them up the hill-side, granted them their liberty until morning ;- and leaving our bro- ken gear, pickaxes, spades, and other utensils scattered about the ground in grand confusion, tired and worn out we kindled a fire, and set about cooking our dinner. Leonard and his servants declared that they had not tasted any thing but a little biscuit and coffee during the last three days, the Dutchmen along their road being very unfriendly and inhospitable to the English transport-riders. "Next morning we awoke ‘refreshed by sound slum: bers ; and having dispatched all the Hottentots, except- ing one man, in quest of the oxen, Leonard and J were 48 _ ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. actively employed for two hours in digging out and off- loading the wagon, after which Leonard and the Hot- tentot set about preparing the breakfast, while. I pro- ceeded to darn*my worsted stockings, having had the good fortune to obtain some hanks of worsted from the wife of a Scotch sergeant in Grahamstown, after vain- ly seeking that article in the shops of all the haber-. dashers in the town. While we were thus employed, Captain Codrington and Mr. Fichett rode up to us, and seemed very much amused at our situation. Having drunk a cup of coffee with me, Fichett:and Codrington returned home, previously engaging me to dine with them, as I had resolved to-retrace my steps and try an- other line-of country. About 11 A.M. the Hottentots. returned with our oxen, when, with the united efforts of the teams, we succeeded in extricating my now lightened wagon. The two oxen:I purchased from Thompson, though well-favored, proving indolent in a heavy pull, I exchanged them with Leonard for the liberty to pick any two out. of his spay, giving him a sovereign to boot. His team consisted of twelve tough : little red Zoolah oxen; from the district of Natal, which, like the Albany cattle, are termed “ Zuur-feldt.”: This colonial phrase is applied to all oxen bred and reared near the sea-coast, in districts where the majority of the grass is sour. - Those from about the frontiers of the colony, or any where beyond the Orange River, are termed “ Sweet-feldt” oxen. The Zuur-feldt cat- tle possess a superiority over the Sweet-feldt as trek- oxen, inasmuch as they thrive on any pasture, whereas the latter die if detained more than a few days in Zuur- feldt districts. Leonard’s account of the road before me was so bad, his wagon having been upset four times on the preceding day, that I resolved to put about, and THE HONEY-BIRD. 49 adopt the route through De Bruin’s Poort, which had been recommended to me by the drivers of the Somer- set orange-wagons. By this route I should avoid Som- erset, and pass through the village of Cradock. My plans at this time were, in the first instance, to proceed direct to the Thebus Flats, where black wildebeest and springbok were reported to abound; and thence to march upon Colesberg, a village on the frontiers, where T expected to meet my cousin, Colonel Campbell, of the 91st, by whose advice, in a great measure, I intended to be guided in my future movements. We now reloaded my wagon, made all fast, and hav- ing put every thing in order, Leonard and I journeyed together to Fichett’s farm, where I once more took up my quarters for the night. While actively busied with my oxen, I saw to-day, for the first time, the honey- bird. This extraordinary little bird, which is about the size of a chaffinch, and of a light gray color, will inva- tiably lead a person following it to a wild-bees’ nest. Chattering and twittering in a state of great excite- ment, it perches on a branch beside the traveler, en- deavoring by various wiles to attract his attention; and having succeeded in doing so, it flies lightly forward in a wavy course in the direction of the bees’ nest, alight- ing every now and then, and looking back to ascertain if the traveler is following it, all the time keeping up an incessant twitter. When at length it arrives at the hollow tree or deserted white-anis’ hill which contains the honey, it for a moment hovers over the nest, point- ing to it with its bill, and then takes up its position on a neighboring branch, anxiously awaiting its share of the spoil. When the honey is taken, which is accom- plished by first stupefying the bees by burning grass at the entrance of their domicile, the honey-bird will often Vou. L—C 50 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA lead to a second and even to a third nest. The per- son thus following it ought to whistle. The savages in the interior, while in pursuit, have several charmed sentences which they use on the occasion. The wild bee of Southern Africa exactly corresponds with the domestic garden bee of England. They are very gen- erally diffused throughout every part of Africa, bees- wax forming a considerable part of the cargoes of ships trading to the Gold and Ivory Coasts, and the deadly district of Sierra Leone, on the western shores of Africa. Interesting as the honey-bird is, and though sweet be the stores to which it leads, I have often had cause to wish it far enough, as, when following the warm “‘spoor” or track of elephants, I have often seen the sav- ages, at moments of the utmost importance, resign the spoor of the beasts to attend to the summons of the bird. Sometimes, however, they are “sold,” it being a well-known fact, both among the Hottentots and tribes of the interior, that they often lead the unwary pursuer to danger, sometimes guiding him to the mid-day re- treat of a grizzly lion, or bringing him suddenly upon the den of the crouching panther. J remember on one occasion, bout three years later, when weary with war- ring against the mighty elephants and hippopotamoi which roam the vast forests and sport in the floods of the fair Limpopo, having mounted a pair of unwonted shot-barrels, I sought recreation in the humbler pur- suit of quail-shooting. While thus employed, my at- tention was suddenly invited by a garrulous honey- bird, which pertinaciously adhered to me for a consid- erable time, heedless of the reports made by my gun. Having bagged as many quails and partridges as I cared about shooting, I whistled lustily to the honey- bird, and gave him chase; after following him to a dis- JOURNEY RESUMED. 51 tance of upward of a mile, through the open glades ad- joining the Limpopo, he led me to an unusually vast crocodile, who was lying with his entire body conceal- ed, nothing but his horrid head being visible above the surface of the water, his eyes anxiously watching the movements of eight or ten large bull buffaloes, which, in seeking to quench their thirst in the waters of the river, were crackling through the dry reeds as they cautiously waded in the deep mud that a recent flood had deposited along the edge. Fortunately for the buf- faloes, the depth of the mud prevented their reaching the stream, and thus the scaly monster of the river was disappointed of his prey. CHAPTER ITI. Fearful Descent of De Bruin’s Poort—District lately deserted by Ele- phants—Noble Forest-trees—The Great Fish River~~Cunning Boers --Burning Effects of the Sun—The Dutch, Noé’s Green Tea Oint- ment—Skill of the Hottentots in “ Tapping the Admiral’”—-Beauti- fully wooded Country—The Village of Cradock—South African Cli- mate—Countless Herds of Springbok—Mynheer Pocheter—The Way to make a Friend on the Thebus Flats—Hendric Strydom— Hunting for Springbok—Extraordinary Migrations of these Antelopes. My “trek-tow” having been destroyed during the recent struggles, I was glad to purchase a new one from a man named Mackenzie in Fichett’s employ, which he supplied. me, together with a strong thorn- wood yoke, for £1. On leaving the farm we proceed- ed in an easterly course, and struck into a track which in a few hours led us into the high road leading from Grahamstown to Cradock. Having followed this road 52 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. for several miles, we commenced descending through the De Bruin’s Poort, where the road winds, in a deep, narrow, and rugged ravine, through dense ever-green underwood, in its descent to the lower ground adjacent to the banks of-the Great Fish River. This poort, or mountain pass, the terror of wagon-drivers, being at all times perilous to wagons, was in the present in- stance unusually dangerous and impassable, the recent heavy rains having entirely washed away the loose soil with which the colonists had been in the habit of em- banking the permanent shelves and ridges of adamant- ine rock over which the wagons must necessarily pass, while they had, at the same time, undermined an im- mense number of large masses of rocks and stones which - had hitherto occupied positions on the banks above, and which now lay scattered along the rocky way, present- ing an apparently insurmountable barrier to our further progress. As we were the first who had traveled this road since the late inundations, it had not undergone the slightest repair, which, to have done properly, would have re- quired the labor of a week. Having halted the wag- on, and descended into the ravine for an inspection, ac- companied by Kleinboy, I at once pronounced it, in its present state, to be impassable. Kleinboy, however, well aware that he would not be called upon to pay for damages, seemed to entertain a different opinion, evi- dently preferring to run all risks to encountering the Herculean labors of rolling all these bowlders to one side. Accordingly, having made up our minds to take the pass, we reascended to the wagon, and having rheimed or secured the two hind wheels by means of the drag-chains, Kleinboy took his position on the box, and the wagon commenced its perilous descent, I follow- A PERILOUS DESCENT. 53 ing in the firm expectation every moment of beholding its destruction. Jolting furiously along, it crashed and jumped from rock to rock; at one moment the star- board hind wheel resting on a projecting ledge of rock several feet in height, and the front wheel on the same side buried in a deep hollow, and-next moment the larboard wheels suddenly elevated by a corresponding mass of rock on the opposite side, placing the wagon in such a position that it seemed as though another inch must inevitably decide its fate. I held my breath, doubting the possibility of its regaining the horizontal position. Righting again, however, with fearful vio lence, it was launched, tottering from side to side, down the steep stony descent, and eventually, much to my astonishment, the pass was won, and we entered upon the more practicable road beneath. I could not help fancying how an English-built ve- hicle would have fared in a similar situation, and how a Brighton coachman would have opened his eyes could he have seen my Cape wagon in the act of descending this fine specimen of a colonial wagon-road, which I might aptly compare to the rugged mountain-bed of some Highland river. Having continued our journey till within an hour of sundown, we. encamped for the night. The country through which we had passed was densely covered with one vast jungle of dwarfish ever- green shrubs and bushes, among which the speck-boom was predominant. This species of tree, which is one of the most abundant throughout the forests and jun- gles of Albany and Caffraria, is utterly unserviceable to man, as its pithy branches, even when dead, are un- available for fuel. It is, however, interesting, as con- stituting a favorite food of the elephants which, about twenty-tive years ago, frequented the whole of this. 54 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. country in large herds. The foot-paths formed through successive ages by the feet of these mighty animals are still discernible on the sides and in the necks of some of the forest-clad hills, and the skulls and larger bones of many are at this moment bleaching in some of the forest-kloofs or ravines adjacent to the sea in Lower Albany. From time immemorial, these interesting and stupen- dous quadrupeds had maintained their ground through- out these their paternal domains, although they were constantly hunted, and numbers of them were slain, by the neighboring active and athletic warriors of the Am- aponda tribes, on account of their flesh, the ivory so much prized among civilized nations being by them es- teemed of no value, the only purpose to which they adapt it being the manufacture of rings and ornaments for their fingers and arms. These gallant fellows, arm- ed only with their assagais or light javelins of their own manufacture, were in the constant habit of attacking the gigantic animals, and overpowering them with the accumulated showers of their weapons. At length, however, when the white lords of the creation pitched their camps on the shores of Southern Africa, a more determined and general warfare was waged against the elephants on account of their ivory, with the more de- structive engines of ball and powder. In a few years, those who managed to escape from the hands of their oppressors, after wandering from forest to forest, and from one mountain range to another, and finding that sanctuary there was none, turned their faces to the northeast, and “‘trekked” or migrated from their an- cestral jungles to lands unknown. A small remnant, however, remained; and these, along with a few buffa- loes, koodoos, and one solitary black rhinoceros, still FOREST-TREES. 50 found shelter in the vast jungles of the Zuurberg and ‘Addo bush as late as the commencement of 1849. When the colonists first settled in Albany, they were in the habit of carrying on a very lucrative traffic with the chiefs of the neighboring Amaponda tribes, from whom they obtained large quantities of ivory in barter for beads, brass wire, and other articles of little value. Throughout the jungles of Albany and Caffraria, but more particularly in the deep kloofs and valleys, many varieties of noble forest-trees are found of considerable size and great beauty, several of which are much prized by the colonists on account of their excellence for wag- on-work and house-building ; of these I may enumerate the yellow-wood tree, the wild cedar, the stink-wood tree, and the black and the white iron-wood tree. The two latter are remarkable for toughness and durability, and are much used in the axle-trees of wagons. The primitive system of wooden axle-trees has of late years been superseded in some districts by patent iron ones; many, however, still use and prefer the old wooden axle-trees, because wagons having those made of iron, in steep descents, run too freely after the team, to the injury of the two after-oxen; and, further, because a wooden axle, if broken, may be replaced in any remote part of the country ; whereas a damaged iron axle-tree can not be mended even by the skillful smiths through- out the towns and villages of the eolony. The iron axles are especially apt to be broken in cold frosty mornings during the winter, when a wagon, immediate- _ ly after being set in motion, has to pass through rough ground before the friction of the wheel has imparted to it a certain degree of heat. On the following day a march of four hours brought us to the bank of the Great Fish River, having crossed 56 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. an extensive open glade covered with several varicties of low shrubs and grasses and rough heather. Here, for the first time, I saw and shot the black koran, an excellent game-bird, allied to the bustards, so abundant throughout South Africa. Its weight corresponds with that of our old cock grouse; its legs and neck are long like those of the ostrich; its breast and back are gray, and its wings black and white. They are every where to be met with where the country is at all level and open: when disturbed, they take wing and fly over the plain in circles, much after the manner of the green plover or peewit, uttering a harsh grating cry. The best method of getting within range is to use a horse, and ride round them in a circle, gradually contracting it. To this open glade, whose name I have forgotten, the Nimrods about Grahamstown often resort, and in- dulge in the exciting sport of wild boar and porcupine hunting. This “chasse” is conducted on bright moon- light nights, with a gathering of rough strong dogs, the hunters being armed with a bayonet or spear, with which they dispatch the quarry when brought to bay. I found the Great Fish River, as I had anticipated, still flooded and impassable to wagons. It was, how- ever, ebbing rapidly, and apparently would be fordable on the morrow. During the previous heavy rains, which were said not to have been equaled for twenty- seven years, it had risen to an immense height, and every where overflowed its banks. That part of the bank which formed the descent and ascent of the for- mer wagon-road was, as a matter of course, entirely swept away, a steep wall on either side of the river re- maining in its stead, flanked by a bank of deep and slimy mud. An immense deal of manual labor would consequently be necessary to form a road, by cutting FISH RIVER DRIFT. 5o7 down these walls, and clearing a channel through the mud, before a wagon could take the drift. Accordingly, the work being considerable, I thought the sooner we set about it the better ; so, having cooked and partaken of a hot tiffin, we cast loose the pickaxes, spades, and shovels, stripped to our shirts, and, half wading, half swimming, succeeded in crossing the river, where, hav- ing labored hard till sundown, and constructed a famous piece of road, we considered our task on that side as completed. arly on the following morning we re- sumed our. labors on our side of the river, and about 10 A.M. our path was finished. A party of Boers now hove in sight with three wagons, which they outspan- ned on the opposite bank, and drove their oxen into the neighboring hills to graze. Presently observing us pre- paring-to inspan, they beckoned to me to hold a confer- ence with them across the stream, the object of which was to endeavor to dissuade me from taking the drift until their oxen should return, under pretense of assist- ing us, but, in reality, fearing that we would stick fast, and that they should be forced to assist us, since, in the event of our wagon sticking before their oxen came up, they would be unable to pass us until we were ex- tricated. -I saw the move with half an eye, and in- -stantly ordered my men to inspan with all possible dis- patch; when we got safely through the river and up the opposite bank, which was much more than I had anticipated. It was a fearful pull for the poor oxen; the wagon stuck fast three times, and was within a hair’s breadth of being upset. The water just came up to the bottom boards, but, fortunately, did not wet any part of the cargo. The Boers seemed much surprised at the suc- cess of our venture, as they always entertain the idea C2 58 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. that an Englishman’s oxen must be inferior to theirs, but this idea is grossly erroneous, the reverse being in- variably the case. A Boer will hardly ever flog his oxen when they require it, which, though it may shock the ear of my fair reader, my regard to truth compels me to state is indispensable, oxen being of a strange, stubborn disposition, perfectly different from horses. This, at a future period, I had cause to ascertain prac- tically, when, forsaken by my followers on the borders of the Kalihari desert, I was necessitated daily to in- span and drive my own oxen, which IJ did, with the as- sistance of a small Bushman, for a distance of about a thousand miles. It is a common thing to see a Boer’s oxen stick fast on a very moderate ascent, with not above 1000 lbs. or 2000 lbs. weight in the wagon, where an Albany transport-rider would pass him with a load of 6000 lbs behind his bullocks; and it is by no means uncommon to see these Albany men discharging a load of even 8000 Ibs. weight at the stores of the Grahamstown merchants, which they have transported with a team of fourteen oxen through the hilly country between that town and Algoa Bay. After crossing the river, the road continued good for about three miles, but after that we found it washed away in many places. Once we stuck fast, and were obliged to dig the wagon out, and broke our trek-tow three times in extracting it. In other places we were obliged to leave the usual road, and cut a new way through the thorny trees with our axes, the road being cut up with water-courses six and. eight feet deep. At mid-day we outspanned for two hours, to rest the. oxen, on the farm of a Mr. Corrie. Here we met a “smouse,” or trader, coming down the country with a drove of about a hundred and fifty very FIRST SIGHT OF SPRINGBOKS. 59 large, well-conditioned oxen. He offered me a span at £3 ahead; they were worth £12 each in England. I felt the sun rather oppressive. About two P.M. we inspanned, and, having ascend- ed a long and very steep hill, we entered upon a new line of country, of wide, undulating, open plains of rank, waving grass, dotted over with the mud-built, habita- tions of white ants. We held on for three hours after sundown, and halted for the night at an uninhabited dilapidated mansion, in which we lighted a fire and cooked our dinner. Having secured our oxen on the yokes, instead of permitting them to graze during the night, we were enabled to march next morning some time before the break of day; and as the rising sun gradually unvailed the landscape, I had the pleasure of beholding for the first time several small herds of springboks scattered over the plain. This exquisitely graceful and truly interesting antelope is very general- ly diffused throughout Southern Africa, and is more nu- merous there than any other variety; it is very nearly allied to the ariel gazelle of Northern Africa, and in its nature and habits reminded me of the saisin of India. A few herds of springboks are still to be met with on the plains in the district of Somerset, on which I had now entered; but as this is one of the nearest districts to the abodes of men where this species remains, it is of course much hunted, and is annually becoming scar- eer. The gentlemen farmers of the surrounding dis- tricts keep a good breed of greyhounds, with which they have excellent sport in pursuing these antelopes. On be- holding the springboks I instantly directed my two horses to be saddled, and, desiring the Hottentots to proceed to a farm in advance and there outspan, I rode forth with Cobus, taking my two-grooved rifle to endeavor 60 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. to obtain a shot. I found them extremely wild, and, after expending a considerable deal of ammunition, firing at distances of from six to eight hundred yards, I re- joined my wagons, which I found drawn up on a Dutch- man’s farm, and left the antelopes scathless. Owing to exposure to the sun while working at the Fish River drift on the preceding days, and also to hav- ing discarded coat, waistcoat, and neckcloth since leav- ing Grahamstown, my arms, neck, and shoulders were much swollen, and severely burned and blistered, caus- ing me much pain, and at night preventing me from sleeping. The kind-hearted noé, or lady of the farm, commiserating my condition, and wishing to alleviate my pain, informed me that she had an excellent re- ceipt for sunburn, which she had often successfully administered to her husband and sons. One of the chief ingredients of the promised balsam was green tea, which was to be reduced to powder, of which she direct- ed me to send her a little by one of my servants. Ido not know what the other components might have been, but I well know that, on applying the ointment to the raw and swollen parts, it stung mo as though it had been a mixture of salt and vinegar, giving me intense pain, and causing me to hop and dance about like one demented, and wish the Boer noé and her ointment in the realms of Pluto, to the infinite delight and merri- ment of my sympathizing Hottentots. A peculiar expression in the eyes of these gentlemen, and their general demeanor, inclined me to think that their potations had consisted of some more generous beverage than water during the morning’s march; and on examining one of my liquor cases, I found that I was minus a bottle and a half of gin since yesterday.* ® This is a common failing among this monkey-faced race, nineteen TAPPING THE ADMIRAL. 61 After breakfast we continued our march, when I was again tempted to saddle up and give chase to a troop of springboks, one of which I shot: we continued our march until sundown, when we halted beside a pool of rain water. Here we found some young Boers and Hottentots, belonging to a neighboring farm, actively employed in digging out a nest of wild bees; several of them had their eyes nearly closed from the stings which they had received. The spoils of the “ bike,” however, repaid their pains by twenty pounds of honey. On approaching the nest, a large cluster of bees chose my sunburned arm as a place of rendezvous, from which I could not remove them until I had obtained a bunch of burning grass. in every twenty Hottentots being drunkards, and they have, moreover, not the slightest scruple of conscience as to who is the lawful proprie- tor of the liquor, so long as they can get access to it. No locks nor bolts avail; and thus on the Bay-road, the high road between Algoa Bay and Grahamstown, a constant system of tapping the admiral is maintained. In this pursuit, these worthies, from long practice, have arrived at considerable skill, and it is usually accomplished in the fol- lowing manner: If the liquor is in a cask, having removed one of the . hoops, a gimlet is inserted, when a bucket or two of spirit having been drawn off, the aperture is filled with a plug, and, the hoop being re- placed, no outward mark is visible. The liquor thus stolen, if missed, and inquiries issued, is very plausibly set down to the score of leakage. A great deal of gin arrives in Grahamstown in square case-bottles, pack~ ed in slight red wooden cases. To these the Hottentots devote marked attention, owing to the greater facility of getting at them. Having carefully removed the lid and drained several of the bottles, either by drinking them or pouring their contents into the-water-casks belong- ing to the wagons, they either replace the liquor with water and re- pack the case again as they found it, or else they break the bottles which they have drained and replace them in the case, at the same time taking out a quantity of the chaff in which they have been pack- ed. This is done to delude the merchant into the idea that the loss of liquor occurred owing to breakage from original bad packing. The risk and damage entailed on the proprietors of wagons and owners of merchandise from the drivers indulging in such a system, on the pre carious roads of the eolony, may be imagined. 62 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH: AFRICA. Our march on the following day lay through a mount. ainous country abounding with rich pasture, covered in many places with picturesque thorny mimosa trees, detached and in groups, imparting to the country the appearance of an English park. In the forenoon we halted for a couple of hours in a broad, well-wooded hollow, where I found abundance of bustard, Guinea- fowl, black koran, partridge, and quail. At sundown we encamped at a place callad Daka-Boer’s Neck, on high ground, where the road crosses a bold, precipitous mountain range. The mountain road, along which we trekked the following morning, was extremely steep and rugged: on my right, high above me, I observed a herd of upward of a hundred horses, consisting chiefly of brood-mares and their foals, pasturing on the hill side. Three more marches brought us to the village of Cra- dock, which we reached at dawn of day on Saturday morning the 2d of October, having twice again had occasion to cross the Great Fish River. The country through which we passed was bold, mountainous, and barren, excepting along the banks of the river, which were adorned with groves of mimosa, willow, and white thorn, clad with a profusion of rich yellow blossoms yielding a powerful and fragrant per- fume. It was now the spring of the year, and, this season having been peculiarly favored with rains, a ver- nal freshness robed these sometimes arid regions, and I consider that I first saw them under very favorable cir- cumstances. On the northern bank, at one of the drifts where we crossed the Fish River, I observed the dry - dung in an old sheep-kraal burning. It was smolder- ing away after the manner of Scotch peat; and on my return from the interior about eighteen months after, on my way to Grahamstown, the dunghill was still buzn- DESCRIPTION OF CRADOCK. 63 ing, and had been burning all the time, and nevertheless nly two thirds were consumed. The immense time which these dunghills require to burn is very singular. It is quite a common occurrence for one of them to burn for three or four years; and I have been informed by several respectable farmers of Lower Albany, on whose veracity I could rely, that in that district one of these ‘‘ middens,” as they are termed in Scotland, burn- ed for seven years before it was consumed. The heavi- est and most protracted rains seem to affect them but little, rarely, if ever, extinguishing them. Cradock is a pretty little village, situated on the eastern bank of the Great Fish River, by which it is supplied with water and the gardens irrigated. It is inhabited by Dutch and English, and a goodly sprink- ling of Hottentots, Mozambiques, and Fingoes. The principal street is wide, and adorned with shady trees on every side, among which I observed lots of peach- trees covered with green fruit. The houses are large and well built, generally of brick, some in the old Dutch and some in the English style. Hach house has got a considerable garden attached to it: these are tastefully laid out, and contain all the vegetables most used. in an English kitchen. Apples, pears, oranges, quinces, nectarines, and grapes abound. The vision is bounded on every side by barren, arid, rocky hills and mount- ains. I marched right through the town, and out- spanned about a quarter of a mile beyond it, and after breakfast I re-entered the village on foot to purchase necessaries for myself and servants. Numbers of Dutch Boers, with their wives and families, were assembling -- to hold their Nachmahl or sacrament. About 11 A.M. we inspanned, and continued our journey about five miles, crossing the Great Fish River #4 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. twice, when I halted for some hours upon its bank on account of my oxen, the grass in the vicinity of the town having been very bare. This was the fifth and last time that we crossed the Great Fish River. Here about a dozen wagons passed us on their way to Cra- dock, containing Dutch Boers with their fraus and families. Several of these were horse-wagons, drawn by eight and ten horses in each wagon, harnessed two abreast, and drawing by straps across their breasts in- stead of collars. These straps are generally manufac- tured of the skin of the lion when it is to be obtained, that being reckoned by the Boers to be tougher and more enduring than any other. These long teams are well managed and dexterously driven by the Boers, one man holding the reins and another the whip. In the afternoon I again inspanned, and continued my march till sundown. The road since I left Cradock had im- proved, and was now fine and level, leading through a wide, open, undulating strath along the northeastern bank of the Fish River. The surrounding country pre- sented in every direction endless chains of barren, stony mountains; the bold range of the Rhinaster Bergs stand- ing forth in grand relief to the westward; not a tree to be seen, except a few thorny mimosas in some of the more favored hollows of the hills and along the banks of the river; the country covered with grass and heaths, dwarfish shrubs, and small thorny. bushes. The sun during the day was powerful, but a cool breeze prevailed from the south. Ever since I left Grahamstown the weather had been very pleasant, and seldom oppressively hot, saving in the low-lying hol- lows where the breezes are not felt. South Africa, though its climate is dry and sultry, is nevertheless very salubrious, being surrounded on three sides by the CLIMATE——MYNHEER BESTA. 65 sea, off which a healthy breeze prevails throughout the greater part of the year. At certain seasons, howev- er, northerly breezes prevail: these are termed by the colonists ‘‘ hot winds.” On these occasions the wind feels as though it were blowing off a furnace in a glass foundery, being heated in its passage over the burning sands of the Great Kalihari desert. In Cradock I engaged another Hottentot, named Jacob, in the capacity of after-rider. Having followed the course of the Fish River for a distance of about nine miles, our road inclined to the right in a more northerly direction, and we here bade that stream a final adieu. Two more marches through a succession of wide, undulating, sterile plains, bounded on all sides by bleak and barren mountains, brought us to the borders of the immense flats surrounding the Thebus Mountain. Having followed along the eastern bank an insignifi- cant little stream dignified by the appellation of the Brak River, I arrived at the farm of Mynheer Besta, a pleasant, hospitable Boer, and a field cornet of the dis- trict, which means a sort of resident magistrate. Here we halted to breakfast, and Besta, who is a keen sports- man, entertained me with various anecdotes and ad- ventures which had occurred to him during the earlier days of his sporting career in Albany, where he had once resided. He informed me that the black wilde- beest and springbok were extremely numerous on the plains immediately beyond his farm, which made me resolve to saddle up and go in quest of them as soon as I had breakfasted. The flesh of these animals forms one of the chief articles of food among the Boers and their servants who inhabit the districts in which they are abundant; and the skulls and horns ef hundreds 66 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. of black wildebeest and springbok were to be seen piled in heaps and scattered about the out-houses of the farm. Adjoining the house was a well-watered garden, with very green trees and corn in it, which formed a most pleasing contrast with the surrounding barren country. Having directed my men to proceed to the next farm along the banks of the Brak River, I rode forth with Cobus and held a northerly course across the flats. I soon perceived herds of springbok in every direction, which, on my following at a hard gallop, continued to join one another until the whole plain seemed alive with them. Upon our crossing a sort of ridge on the plain, I beheld the whole country, as far as my eye could reach, actually white with springboks, with here and there a herd of black gnoos or wildebeest, prancing and capering in every direction, whirling and lashing their white tails as they started off in long files on our ap- proach. Having pursued them for many hours, and fired about a dozen shots at these and the springboks at distances of from four to six hundred yards, and only wounded one, which I lost, I turned my horse’s head for the camp. The evening set in dark and low- ering, with rattling thunder and vivid flashes of light- ning on the surrounding hills. I accordingly rode hard for my wagon, which I just reached in time to escape a deluge of rain which lasted all night. The Brak River came down a red foaming torrent, but fell very rapidly in the morning. This river is called Brak from the flavor of its waters, which, excepting in the rainy season, are barely palatable. My day’s sport, although unsuccessful, was most exciting. I did not feel much mortified at my want of success, for I was well aware that recklessly jaging after the game in the manner in HERDS OF SPRINGBOKS. 67 which I had been doing, although highly exhilarating, was not the way to fill the bag. Delight at beholding so much noble game in countless herds on their native plains was uppermost in my mind, and I felt that at last I had reached the borders of those glorious hunt- ing-lands, the accounts of which had been my chief in- ducements to visit this remote and desolate corner of the globe; and I rejoiced that I had not allowed the advice of my acquaintances to influence my move- ments. As I rode along in the intense and maddening excite- ment of the chase, I felt a glad feeling of unrestrained freedom, which was common to me during my career in Africa, and which I had seldom so fully experienced ; and notwithstanding the many thorns which surround- ed my roses during the many days and nights of toil and hardship which I afterward encountered, I shall ever refer to those times as by far the brightest and happiest of my life. On the following morning I rode through the Brak River to visit Mynheer Pocheter, with the intention of buying some horses from him, but he had none to dispose of. I met the-old fellow coming in from the “ feldt,” with his long single-barreled roer and enormous flint-lock, with the usual bullock’s-horn pow- ler-flask dangling at his side. He had gone out with his Hottentot before the dawn of day, and taken up a position in a little neck in an uneven part of the plain, through which the springboks were in the habit of pass- ing before sunrise. In places of this description the Boers build little watching-places with flat stones, from which they generally obtain a shot every morning and evening, and at such distances as to insure success To use their own words, “they secure a buck from these places, skot for skot,” meaning a buck for every shot. 68 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. On this occasion, however, our friend had been un- ‘fortunate, returning without venison, although I had heard the loud booming of his “ roer” a short time pre- viously. The report made by these unwieldy guns of the Boers, charged with a large handful of coarse gun- powder, is to be heard at an amazing distance through the calm atmosphere of these high table-lands; and during my stay on the flats adjoining Thebus Mount- ain, scarcely an hour elapsed at morning, noon, or eve, but the distant booming of some Daren gun sa- luted the ear. Mynheer Pocheter asked me in to take some break- fast with him, which I did, Cobus acting as interpret- er, mine host not understanding a word of English, and T not having at that time acquired the Dutch language, with which I not long afterward became thoroughly conversant. After breakfast I took leave of Mynheer Pocheter, and having directed the wagon to strike out of the direct road to Colesberg, and hold across the country to the abode of a Boer named Hendrie Stry- dom, where the game was-represented to me as being extremely plentiful, I again rode forth, accompanied by Cobus, to wage war with the springboks. "We prick- ed over the plain, holding an easterly course, and found, as yesterday, the springboks in thousands, with here and there a herd of black wildebeest. Finding that by jaging on the open plain I could not get within four or five hundred yards of them, I left my horses and after- rider, ‘and set off on foot to a low range of rocky hills, where I performed two difficult stalks upon a spring- bok and a wildebeest, both of which I wounded severe- ly, but lost. When stalking in upon the springbok I took off my shoes, and had very great difficulty in finding them again. I experienced great distress from HUNTING SPRINGBOKS. 69 thirst. The sun was very powerful, and, notwithstand- ing the heavy rains of the preceding evening, a drop of water was nowhere to be found. Tn the afternoon I came to a pool of mud; the little water it contained was almost boiling; I was, however, most thankful to find it, and tears of delight came into my eyes on discovering it. How trifling was this to the trials from thirst which I have often since under- gone! Shortly after this I fell in with my servant, who, astonished at my long absence, had come in search of me with the horses. I was right glad to fall in with him, and, having got into the saddle, I rode hard across the plain for my wagon. On my way thith- er I took up a position behind a ridge, and directed Co- bus to “jag” a herd of springbok toward me, which he did most successfully, sending upward of a hundred of them right in my teeth. I, however, was still unfor- tunate, firing both barrels into the herd without doing any apparent injury. On reaching my wagon, which I found outspanned at the desolate abode of Mynheer Hendrie Strydom, I took a mighty draught of gin and water, and then walked, followed by my interpreter carrying a bottle of Hollands and glasses, to the door of Strydom, to cultivate the acquaintance of himself and frau, and wearing the garb of old Gaul, in which I generally hunted during my first expedition, to the intense surprise of the primitive Boers. Shaking Stry- dom most cordially by the hand, I told him that I was a “Berg Scot,” or mountain Scotchman, and that it was the custom in my country, when friends met, to pledge one another in a bumper of spirits; at the same time, suiting the action to the word, I filled him a brim- ming bumper. This was my invariable practice on first meeting a Boer. I found it a never-failing meth- 70 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. od of gaining his good will, and he always replied that the Scotch were the best people in the world. It is a strange thing that Boers are rather partial to Scotchmen, although they detest the sight of an En- glishman. They have an idea that the Scotch, like themselves, were a nation conquered by the English, and that, consequently, we trek in the same yoke as themselves; and, further, a number of their ministers are Scotchmen. Hendric Strydom was a tall, sun- burned, wild-looking creature, with light sandy hair, and a long, shaggy red beard. He was a keen hunter, and himself and household subsisted, in a great meas- ure, by the proceeds of his long single-barreled “ roer.” His frau was rather a nice little woman, with a fresh color, and fine dark eyes and eyebrows, and displayed her good taste by taking a fancy to me; but perhaps the tea and coffee which she found I bestowed with a liberal hand might account for her partiality. These were Boers of the poorer order, and possessed but little of this world’s goods. Their abode was in keeping with their means. It was a small mud cottage, with a roof which afforded scanty protection from the heavy period- ical rains. The fire burned on the hearthstone, and a hole in the roof served at once for a window and chim- ney. The rafters and bare mud walls were adorned with a profusion of skins of wild animals, and endless festoons of “biltongue” or sun-dried flesh of game. Green fields or gardens there were none whatever ; the wild Karroo plain stretched away from the house on al] sides; and during the night the springboks and wilde- beests pastured before the door. The servants consisted of one old Bushman and his wife, and the whole of their worldly possessions were an old wagon, a span of oxen, a few milch cows, and a HENDRIC STRYDOM. 71 small herd of goats and sheep. Strydom’s revenue seemed principally to be obtained by manufacturing ashes, with which he was in the habit of loading up his wagon and trekking many days’ journey into other districts, where he sold them to richer Boers. These ashes are in great demand among all the Boers, as be- ing an indispensable ingredient in the manufacture of soap. Every Boer in South Africa makes his own soap. There is a low, succulent, green bush from which the ashes are obtained, which is only found in certain districts, and in these desolate plains it was very abundant.* ; Strydom, having sympathized with me on my con- tinued run of ill luck, remarked that it was quite a common thing when “‘jaging” on the principle which I had followed. He said that he was aware that in hunt- ing on that system an immense amount of ammuni- tion was expended with little profit, and that he, being a poor man, very rarely indulged in it; but that, if I would accompany him after I had taken my coffee, there being still about two hours of daylight, he would show me his method, and he thought it very probable that we should get a buck that evening. ‘Accordingly, having partaken of coffee, Strydom and I stalked forth together across the wild and desolate-looking plain, fol- lowed by two Hottentots, large herds of graceful spring- boks pasturing on every side. He placed me behind a small green bush, about eighteen inches in height, upon a wide open flat, instructing me to lie flat on my breast, and having proceeded some hundred yards, and taken * The manner of obtaining this ash is first to dig up the bushes and collect them on the plains. ‘There they are left until sufficiently dry to burn, when, a calm day being selected, they are set on fire, and the ashes are collected and stowed away in large sacks made of the raw skins of wildebeests and zebras, when they are fit for immediate use. 72 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. up a similar position, he sent the Hottentots round a herd of springboks which were feeding on the plain, to endeavor to move them gently toward us. It was a very beautiful thing altogether, and succeeded well. The whole herd‘ came on slowly, right toward where I lay, until within a hundred yards, when I selected a fine fat buck, which I rolled over with a ball in the shoulder. This was the first fair shot that I had ob- tained at a springbok on these plains. I have always been reckoned by those who know my shooting to be a very fair rifle-shot, whether standing or running, but I do not profess to make sure work much beyond one hundred and ten paces, or thereabouts.* * The springbok is so termed by the colonists on account of its pe- culiar habit of springing or taking extraordinary bounds, rising to an incredible height in the air, when pursued. The extraordinary man- ner in which springboke are capable of springing is best seen when they are chased by a dog. On these occasions, away start the herd, with a succession of strange perpendicular bounds, rising with curved loins high into the air, and at the same time elevating the snowy folds of long white hair on their haunches and along their back, which im- parts to them a peculiar fairy-like appearance, different from any other animal. They bound to the height of ten or twelve feet, with the elas- ticity of an India-rubber ball, clearing at each spring from twelve to fifteen feet of ground, without apparently the slightest exertion. In performing the spring, they appear for an instant as if suspended in the air, when down come all four feet again together, and, striking the plain, away they soar again, as if about to take flight. The herd only adopt this motion for a few hundred yards, when they subside into a light elastic trot, arching their graceful necks and lowering their noses to the ground, as if in sportive mood. Presently pulling up, they face about, and reconnoiter the object of their alarm. In crossing any path or wagon-road on which men have lately trod, the springbok invaria- bly clears it by a single surprising bound; and when a herd of perhaps many thousands have to cross a track of the sort, it is extremely beau- tiful to see how each antelope performs this feat, so suspicious are they of the ground on which their enemy, man, has trodden. They bound in a similar manner when passing to leeward of a lion, or any other animal of which they entertain an instinctive dread. The accumulated masses of living creatures which the springboks AN EARLY START. 73 Two days before this, I brought down a koran fly- ag, with single ball. Our chances for this evening ing now over, and night setting in, I returned to the arm with Strydom in high spirits. CHAPTER IV. \ Bustard shot—Flight of Locusts—Quagga Shooting in the Dark— Curious Mistake—Ostriches—A Sportsman napping—Leave Stry- dom’s Residence in quest of Wildebeests—Wildebeest Shooting— Meeting with a Brother Officer—Proceed to Colesberg—Additions to Equipments. Ar an éarly hour on the morning of the 6th, while I was yet in bed, Hendric Strydom and his frau were standing over my fire, alongside of my w&gon, with a welcome supply of sweet milk, and hurrying on the in- lolent Hottentots to prepare my breakfast, and rouse their slothful’ master, the earliest dawn being, as he iffirmed, the best time to go after the springboks.- On aearing their voices, I rose, and, having breakfasted, we shouldered our “‘roers,” walked about.a mile across exhibit on the greater migrations.is utterly astounding, and any trav- eler witnessing it as I have, and giving a true description of what he has seen, can hardly expect to be believed, so marvelous is the scene. They have been well and truly compared to the wasting swarms of locusts, so. familiar to the traveler in this land of wonders. Like them, shey consume every green thing i in their course, laying waste vast dis- xicts in a few hours, and Tuining in a single night the rruits of the farm- are toil. The course adopted by the antelopes is generally such as to oring them back to their own country by a route different from that sy-which they set out. Thus their lino of march sometimes forms something like a vast oval ‘or. an extensivo square, of which the diam eter may: “he some hundred miles, and the time occupied in this migra tion may vary from six months to.a year. Vou. L—D 74 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. the plain, and took up positions behind two very low bushes, about three hundred yards apart, and instruct- ed our Hottentots to endeavor to drive the springboks toward us. We had two beats, but were unlucky both times, each of us wounding and losing a springbok. In the evening we went out again to hunt on the same principle, on a very wide flat to the west of his house, where we lay down behind very low bushes, in the middle of the bucks. We lay there on our breasts for two hours, with herds of springboks moving all round us, our Hottentots maneuvering in the distance. One small troop came within shot of me, when I sent my bullet spinning through a graceful doe, which bounded forward a hundred. yards, and, staggering for a moment, fell over and expired. A little after this, I suddenly perceived a large paow or bustard walking on the plain before me. . These birds are very wary and difficult to approach. “i therefore resolved to have a shot at him, and lay like a piece of rock until he came within range, when I sent a bullet through him. He managed, how- ever, to fly about a quarter of a mile, when he alight- ed; and on going up to the place half an hour after, I fount him lying dead, with his head stuck into‘a bush. of heath. P Strydom had two family shots, and brought down with each a well-conditioned buck. In high good-- humor with our success, we now proceeded to gralloch or disembowel the quarry; after which, each of us shouldering a buck, we returned home in heavy march- ing order. On the following day I had the pleasure of beholding the first flight of locusts that I had seen since my arrival in the colony. We were standing in the middle of a plain of unlimited length, and about five miles across, when I observed them advancing. On A FLIGHT OF LOCUSTS. 75 they came like a snow-storm, flying slow and steady, about a hundred yards from the ground. I stood look- ing at them until the air was darkened with their masses, while the ‘plain on which we stood became densely covered with them. Far as my eye could reach—east, west, north, and south—they stretched in one unbroken cloud, and more than an hour elapsed before their devastating legions had swept by. I was particularly struck with this most wonderful and truly interesting sight; and I remember at the time my feeling was one of self-gratulation at having visited a country where I could witness such a scene. On this day and on the morrow Strydom and I continued to wage successful war against the springboks. We cross- ed the small stream called the Thebus River, and hunt- ed on the plains to the east. On one occasion Hendric brought down two fat bucks at one shot, which he as- sured me was not an uncommon event with him. On the morning of the 9th, Strydom and I having resolved over night to go in quest of a troop of ostriches which his Hottentot reported, frequenting the plains immediately. adjacent to the Thebus Mountain, we started our Hottentots two hours before the dawn of day ; and after an early breakfast we saddled up, and rode direct for the Thebus Mountain. This remarkable mountain, which I shall ever remember as the leading feature on the plains where I first really commenced my African hunting, is of peculiar shape, resembling a cone depressed at the apex, and surmounted by a round tower. It is also remarkable as being considerably higher than the-surrounding mountains, with which the plains are bounded and intersected. As we rode along, a balmiy freshness pervaded the morning air. We passed through herds of thousands of springboks, 76 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. with small herds of wildebeest scattered among them. I fired two or three very long shots without success. Strydom, however, was more fortunate. He fired into a herd of about a hundred bucks at three hundred yards, and hit one fine old buck right in the middle of the fore- head, the ball passing clean through his skull. We hid him in a hole in the ground, and covered him with bushes, and then rede on to our Hottentots, whom we found waiting beside a small fountain in a pass formed by a wide gap in a low range of hills, situated between two extensive plains which were thickly covered with game. I took up my position in a bush of rushes in the middle of the pass, and remained there for upward of eight hours, during which our boys were supposed to be endeavoring to drive the game toward us. The Boer took up the best pass about a quarter of a mile to my right. Before we had been an hour at our passes, the boys drove up four beautiful ostriches, which came and stood within fifty yards of Strydom, but, alas! he was asleep. About'this time I was busy try- ing to remember and practice a childish amusement which once delighted me as much as rifle-shooting— namely, making a cap of rushes, when, on suddenly lifting up my eyes, I saw standing within eighty yards of me about a dozen beautiful springboks, which were coming up to the pass behind me. I snatched up my rifle, and, lying flat on my breast, sent a bullet through the best buck in the troop, smashing his shoulder. He ran about fifty yards, and fell dead. I unfortunately left him lying exposed in the path, the consequence of which was that three other troops of springboks, which were coming up as he had come, were turned to the right about by his carcass. It was amusing to see the birds and beasts of prey HUNTING OSTRICHES. 77 assembling to dispute the carcass with me. First came the common black and white carrion crow, then the vultures ; the jackals knew the cry of the vultures, and they too came sneaking from their hiding-places in the rocks and‘holes of the ant-bear in the plains to share in the feast, while I was obliged to remain a quiet spec- tator, not daring to move, as the game was now in herds on every side of me, and I expected to see os- triches every moment. Presently a herd of wildebeest came thundering down upon me, and passed within shot. I put a bullet into one of these, too far behind the shoulder, which, as is always the case with deer and antelopes, did not seerh to affect him in the slight- est degree. In the afternoon we altered our positions, and sent the boys to drive the plain beside which I had been sitting all day. The quantity of bucks which were now before our eyes beat all computation. The plain extended, without a break, until the eye could not discern any object smaller than a castle. Through- out the whole of this extent were herds of thousands and tens of thousands of springboks, interspersed with troops of wildebeest. The boys sent us one herd of about three hundred springboks, into which Strydom let fly at about three hundred yards, and turned them and all the rest. & It was now late in the day, so we. made for home, taking up the buck which Strydom had shot in the morning. As we cantered along the flats, Strydom, tempted by a herd of springboks, which were drawn up together i in a compact body,” jumped off his horse, and, giving: his ivory sight an elevation of several feet, let drive at them, the distance being about five hundred yards. As the troop bounded away, we could distin- guish a light-colored object lying in the short heath, 78 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. which he pronounced to be a springbok, and on going up we found one fine old doe lying dead, shot through the spine. This day, and every day since | arrived at these flats, I was astonished at the number of skeletons and well-bleached skulls with which the pl&ins were covered. Thousands of skulls of springbok and wilde- beest were strewed around wherever the hunter turned hiseye. ‘The sun was extremely powerful all day,but, being intent on the sport, I did not feel it until I found my legs burned; my dresg, as usual, was the kilt, with a gray stalking-cap. On reaching home the following day, a large party of natives, belonging to the chief Moshesh, arrived on the farrh. These poor men were traveling in quest of employment. Numbers of na- tives annually visit the colony, and work for the Boers, making stone inclosures for their cattle, and large dams or embankments across little streams in the mouths of valleys, for the purpose of collecting water in the rainy season for the supply of their flocks and herds during the protracted droughts of summer. They are paid for their labor with young cows or she-goats. The re- cent rains having washed away the embankment of a dam situated in a distant range of hills, on the borders of the farm, Strydom engaged these men to repair it. The vicinity of the dam being a favorite haunt for quaggas, and it being necessary that Strydom should go there on the morrow, we resolved to hunt in the neighboring district, in which were situated some high and rugged hills. Accordingly, next day, we sallied forth, and I ascended to one of their highest pinnacles, where I managed to shoot a rhode-raebok. Joining Strydom shortly afterward, we hunted over another range of the same hills, where we fell in with three yuaggas and other game. Night was now fast setting NIGHT HUN'TING. 79 in, so we descended from the hills and made for home. As we passed down we observed what we took to be a herd of quaggas and a bull wildebeest standing in front of us, upon which we jumped off our horses, and, bend- ing our bodies, approached them to fire. It was now quite dark, and it was hard to tell what sort of game we were going to fire at. Strydom, how- ever, whispered to me that they were quaggas, and they certainly appeared to be such. His gun snapped three times at the wildebeest, upon which they all set off at a gallop. Strydom, who was riding my stallion, let go his bridle, when he ran in to fire, taking advant- age of which the horse set off at a gallop after them I then mounted “ The Cow,” and after riding hard for about a mile I came up to them. They were now standing still, and the stallion was in the middle of them. I could make him out, by his saddle ; so, jump- ing off my horse in a state of intense: excitement, I ran forward and fired both barrels of my two-grooved rifle into the quaggas, and heard the bullets tell loudly. They then started off, but the stallion was soon once more fighting in the middle of them. I was astonished and delighted to remark how my horse was able to take up their attention, so that they appeared heedless of the reports of my rifle. In haste I commenced. loading, but to my dismay I found that I had left my loading-rod with Hendric. Mounting {The Cow,” I rode nearer to the quaggas, and was delighted to find that they allowed my horse to come within easy shot. It was now very dark, but I set off in the hope to fall in with Hendric on the wide plain, and galloped along, shouting ‘with all my might, but in vain. I then rode across the plain for the hill to try to find some bush large enough to make 80 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. aramrod. In this, by the greatest chance, I succeed- ed, and, being provided with a knife, I cut a good ram- rod, loaded my rifle, and rode off to-seek the quaggas once more. I soon fell in with them, and, coming with- in shot, fired at them right and left, and heard both bul- lets tell, upon which they galloped across the plain, with the stallion still after them. One of them, how- ever, was very hard hit, and soon dropped astern. The stallion remained to keep him company. -About this time the moon shone forth faintly. I galloped on after the troop, and presently coming up with them, rode on one side, and dismounting, and dropping on my knee, I sent a bullet through the shoul- der of the last quagga; he staggered forward, fell to the ground with a heavy crash, and expired. The rest of the troop charged wildly around him, snorting and prancing like the wild horses in Mazeppa, and then set off at full speed: across the plain. I did not wait to bleed the quagga, but, mounting my horse, galloped on after the troop: I could not, however, overtake them. I now returned, and endeavored to find the quagga which I had last shot; but, owing to the darkness, and to my having no mark to guide me on the plain, I fail- ed to find him. I then set off to try for the quagga which had dropped astern with the stallion. Having searched some time in vain, I dismounted, and laid my head on the ground, when I made out two dark ob- jects, which turned out to be what I sought. On my approaching, the quagga tried to make off, when I sent a ball through his shoulder, which laid him low. On going up to him in the full expectation of inspecting for the first time one of these animals, what was my dis- appointment and vexation to find a fine brown gelding, with two white stars on his forehead! The truth now A SAD MISTAKE. 81 flashed upon me; Strydom and I had both been mis. taken ; instead of quaggas, the wagon-team of a neigh- boring Dutchman had afforded me my evening’s shoot- ing! 5 caught my stallion and rode home, intending to pay for the horses which I had killed and wounded ; but on telling my story to Strydom, with which he seemed extremely amused, he told me not to say a word about it, as the owners of the horses were very avaricious, and would make me pay treble their value, and that, if I kept quiet, it would be supposed they had been killed either by lions or wild Bushmen. Strydom and I continued hunting springboks till the 17th, dur- ing which time we enjoyed a constant run of good luck, and so fascinating was the sport that I felt as though I never could tire of it. It was, indeed, a country where a person who loved rifle-shooting ought to have been content. Every morning, on opening my eyes, the first thing which I saw, without raising my head from the pillow, was herds of hundreds of springboks grazing before me on the plains. On the 17th, an old friend of Strydom’s, a Boer from Magalisberg, outspan- ned on the farm. He had been to Grahamstown with a load of ivory, and was returning home with supplies of tea, coffee, clothing, &c., sufficient for two years’ consumption. He was accompanied by his wife and two tall gawky-looking daughters, and half a dozen noisy geese, which were secured in a cage on the trap of the wagon. This Boer informed me that I could get all the rarer animals which I wished to shoot in his vicinity, namely, sable antelope, roan antelope, eland, water-buck, koodoo, pallah, tlephant, black and white rhinoceros, hippopotamus, giraffe, buffalo, lion,. &e. He told me he had shot elephants there with tusks D2 82 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. weighing one hundred pounds each, and upward of seven feet in length. He advised me not to visit that country before the end of April, as my horses would assuredly die of a never-failing distemper which pre- vails‘in the interior, within a certain latitude, during the summer months. Being anxious now to devote my attention more par- ticularly to black wildebeests, of which I had not yet secured a specimen, I resolved to take leave of my friend Hendric Strydom, and proceed to the plains beyond the Thebus Mountain, where he informed me they abounded. Accordingly, about 9 P.M., having inspanned by moonlight, I took leave of my friend, having presented him with a coffee-mill and some crockery, to which his frau had taken a fancy, and also with a supply of coarse gunpowder, which is to a Boer a most acceptable gift. “We held for the Thebus Mountain, steering across the open plains and follow- ing no track, with springboks and wildebeests whistling and bellowing on every side of us. About midnight we halted by a fountain near the pass where a few days before I had lain. in ambush for eight hours, and as it was probable that the oxen would wander during the night, we secured them on the yokes. Two of my oxen and both my horses were reported missing when we left the farm, and I had left Cobus to seek for them. In the afternoon of the next day my two servants joined me, bringing with them the lost oxen, but having failed to find the steeds. At night I took up a position in an old shooting-hole beside the vley, to watch for wildebeests. Several jackals, wildebeests, quaggas, and hyzenas came to drirfk during the night, but, not being able to see the sight of my rifle, I did not fire. Here I remained until the bright star of morning had WILDEBEEST SHOOTING. 83 risen far above the horizon, and day was just beginning to dawn, when, gently raising my head and looking round, I saw, on one side of me, four wildebeests, and on the other side ten. They were coming to drink ; slowly and suspiciously they approached the water, and, having convinced themselves that all was right, they trotted boldly up and commenced drinking. Se- lecting the finest bull, I fired, and sent a bullet through his shoulder, when, splashing through the water, he bounded madly forward, and, having run about a hund- red yards, rolled over in the dewy grass. I did not show myself, other game being in sight, but lay still in the hole. In about an hour an old springbok fed up to within three hundred yards of me, and continued brows- ing there for a considerable time. As no more wilde- beests seemed to be approaching, and as I was very hungry, I put up my sight and took a cool, calculating aim at him, and sent the ball through the middle of his shoulder. I then left mg hole, and, having inspected the wildebeest bull, which was a noble specimen, I walked up to my wagon, and sent the boys to cut up the venison and preserve the head carefully. On the following morning I woke as day dawned, and held for my hole beside the vley, but had not gone two hundred yards round the hillock when I saw an old springbok feeding, which I stalked, and broke his fore-leg. He went off toward the wagon, when the boys slipped “‘Gauger” (one of my greyhounds), who at once ran into him and pulled him down. Having lain about an hour at the vley, two old wildebeests ap- proached up wind, and, suspecting the ground, described a wide semicircle, like our red deer. I wounded: one of them, but he did not drop. I, however, managed to send a ball through the shoulder of the other, when he 34 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. ran several hundred yards, whisking his long white tail as if all was right, and suddenly rolled over in full ca- reer. His skin had a delicious smell of the grass and wild herbs on which these animals lie and feed. -.On proceeding to my wagon, I found all my men asleep. Having gralloched the wildebeest, we bore him bodily to the wagon on the “lechteauit,” which is a bar of hard wood used in greasing the wagon wheels, when I immediately set about curing the head, it being a very fine one. On the following morning Cobus returned, having found my two horses. While taking my breakfast, I observed a gentleman approaching on horseback; this was Mr. Paterson, an officer of the 91st, a detachment of which was then quartered at Colesberg. Lieutenant Borrow, a brother officer of mine, had intrusted me with the care of a rifle which he was sending to Mr. Paterson, and, as I had been a long time on the road, he had now come to look @fter it. He was a keen sportsman, and J had much pleasure in meeting so agreeable a person in the wilderness. Having joined me in my rough breakfast with a-true hunter’s appe- tite, we rode forth together to look for the wildebeest I had wounded in the morning, expecting to find him dead. On reaching the ground, we found five small herds of wildebeests charging about the plain, and for a long time could not discover the wounded one; at length I perceived an old. bull with his head drooping, which I at once pronounced to be my friend. On ob- serving him, we dismounted and watched him for a short time. ‘The others inclined to make off, but seem- ed unwilling to leave him. Being now convinced that this was the wildebeest we sought, we determined to give him chase, and try to ride into him; but, just as ARRIVAL AT COLESBERG. ‘ 85 we had come to this resolution, he fell violently to the ground, raising a eloud of dust. On riding up to him we found him dead. Paterson and I then made for the vley, and had not proceeded two hundred yards when, on looking back, I saw-about thirty large vultures standing on the wilde- beest, which in a very short space of time they would have devoured. On the morrow Paterson left me and rede back for Colesberg, having first extracted a prom- ise that I would follow him within three days. [ ac- cordingly hunted until that time had expired, when I reluctantly inspanned and marched upon Colesberg. Three long marches brought us to the farm of a Boer named Penar, who had been recommended to me as having a good stamp of horses, and as being reasonable in his:prices. I was, however, disappointed with his stud, and, finding him exorbitant in his prices, no busi- ness was transacted. The. country continued much the same—wide Karroo plains, bounded by abrupt rocky mountains. One more long march brought us within - five miles of Colesberg, whgre I halted for the night. On the 27th, having taken an early breakfast,:-we trekked into Colesberg, where, having chosen a position for my. camp, I outspanned and took up my quarters with Paterson. The village of Colesberg is so called from a conspicuous, lofty table-mountain in its imme- diate vicinity, which takes its name from a former gov- ‘mor of the colony. ‘The town is situated in a confin- ed hollow, surrounded on all sides by low rocky hills. The formation of these rocks is igneous, and the way in which they are distributed is very remarkable. Large and shapeless masses are heaped together and piled one above another, as if by the hand of some mighty giant of the olden times. The town is well . 86 » ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. supplied with water from a strong fountain which bursts from the base of one of these rocky hillocks above the level of the town, and by which the small gardens adjoining the houses are irrigated. Abundance of. water is the only advantage that the situation can boast of. In the town are several large stores, from which the Boers of the surrounding districts can obtain every necessary article in their domestic economy. Numbers of these farmers attend the market weekly with their: wagons, bringing in the produce of their farms and gardens; and, on sacramental occasions, which happen four times every year, the town is inun- dated with Boers, who bring in their families in horse- wagons. Owing to the unsettled state of the country, troops were then stationed at Colesberg. The garrison consisted of about two hundred men of the 91st, under command of my cousin, Colonel Campbell, and one.com- pany of the Cape Mounted Rifles, commanded by Cap- tain Donovan. Colesberg was in those days a pleasant quarter, as there was not much pipe-clay, and very good shooting could be obtained, within a few hours of can- tonment. In the forenoon we had some rifle practice at a large granite stone above the town, which the privates of the 91st were wont to pepper on ball-practice days. On this occasion I saw some very good shooting by Camp- bell, Yarborough, Bailey, and Paterson, all officers of the 91st, and about the four best shots on the frontier. These four Nimrods had a short time previously boldly challenged any four Dutchmen of the Graaf Reinet or Colesberg districts to shoot against them. The chal- lenge was accepted by four Dutchmen, who, of course, got “jolly well licked.” After spending a few days very pleasantly with the PURCHASES. 87 garrison, I resolved to hunt on and about the frontiers until the end of March, at which time the horse dis- temper begins to subside, when I proposed starting on an elephant-hunting expedition into the more remote districts of the far interior. In Colesberg I purchased, by the kind recommendation of Captain Donovan, a second wagon of the cap-tent kind, which turned out to be an unusually good one. Its price was £50. I also purchased an excellent span of black and white oxen from a Dutch blacksmith in the town. From Donovan I bought a dark-brown horse, which I named Colesberg. His price was three hundred dollars, and he was well worth double that sum, for a better steed Tnever crossed. I purchased from a Boer in the town another horse, well known to the garrison by the sobri- quet of the “Immense Brute.” He was once the prop- erty of Captain Christie of the 91st. When, on one occasion, having wandered, an advertisement appeared. in one of the frontier papers relative to an “ immense brute” in the shape of a tall bay horse, the property of Captain Christie, é&c., &c., and ever since he had been distinguished by this elegant appellation. I exchanged my brown stallion with Colonel Campbell for an active gray, which I considered better adapted to my work. Glass was at this time at a premium in Colesberg, every window in the town having been smashed by a recent hail-storm. JI loaded up my new wagon with barley; oats, and forage for my horses, they having very hard work before them—hunting the oryx, upon which I was more immediately bent, being more trying to horses than any other sport in South Africa. My intention was to revisit Colesberg in four or five months, and refit, preparatory to starting for the far in- terior. I left the skulls and specimens of natural his- 88 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. tory which I had already collected in the charge of my friend Mr. Dickson, a merchant in Colesberg. During my stay in Colesberg my men were in a constant state of beastly intoxication, and gave me much trouble, and my oxen and horses were constantly reported-in the “skit-kraal” or pound. I engaged one more Hottentot, named John Stofolus, as driver to the new wagon. He: was an active, stout little man, and very neat-handed at stuffing the heads of game, preserving specimens, or any other little job which 1 might give him to do. He was, however, extremely fond of fighting with his com- rades, and was ever boasting of his own prowess; but when his courage was put to the proof in assisting me to hunt the more dangerous ames he was found wo- fully deficient. CHAPTER V. Departure from Colesberg—Jaging Springbok—Vast Herds of Game— Swarms of Flies—Oology—A Nomade Boer’s Encampment—Anec- dote of the Gemsbok—Cobus rides down a splendid old Bull Gems- bok—A Night in the Desert—Paterson arrives—Bushmen—Their ex- i a Raids across the Desert. On the evening, of the 2d of Deoember, with oes. erable difficulty I collected my drunken servants, my oxen and horses, and, taking leave of my kind enter- tainers, trekked out of Colesberg, steering west for the vast Karroo plains, where the gemsbok were said. to be still abundant.’ It was agreed that Camipbell should follow me on the second.day to hunt springbok and black wildebeest, in a district through which I was to travel; and Paterson had applied for a fortnight’s leave, JAGING SPRINGBOK, by 89 with the intention of joining me in the gemsbok coun- try, and enjoying ‘along with me, for a few days, the exciting sport of “jaging” that antelope. I did not pro- ceed very far that evening, my men being intoxicated, and having several times very nearly capsized the wag- ons. I halted shortly.after sundown, when, all the work with the oxen and horses falling upon me, and no fuel being at hand, I was obliged to content myself by din- ing on a handful of raw meal and a glass of gin and water. On the following day we performed two long marches, crossing the Sea-Cow River, and halted:as it grew dark on a Boer’s farm where the plains were cov- ered with springbok. Here Campbell had instructed me to await his arrival, and next morning he was seen approaching the wagons, mounted on the “ Immense Brute,” and leading two others. F Having breakfasted, we started on horseback to “jag” springbok and wiidebeest, ordering the wagons to pro- eeed,to a vley about four miles to the west. "We gal- loped about the plains, loading and firing for about six hours. The-game was very wild. I wounded three springboks and one wildebeest, but: lost them all. Campbell shot two springboks. ‘The first was entirely eaten by the vultures (notwithstanding the bushes with which we had covered him), and skinned as neatly as if done by the hand of man. - The second had its leg broken by the ball, and was making off, when a jackal suddenly appeared on the bare plain, and, giving him chase, after a good course ran into him.* ae : a é * * This is a very remarkable and not unfrequent occurrence. Often, when a springbok is thus wounded, one or more jackals suddenly ap- pear and assist the hunter in capturing his quarry. In‘the more distant: hunting-lands of the interior, it sometimes happens that the lion assists the sportsman in a similar manner with the larger animals; and though this may appear like a traveler's story, it is nevertheless true, and in: 90 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. Next morning, having bathed and breakfasted, Camp- bell and I parted, he for Colesberg and I for the Karroo. I trekked on all day, and, having performed a march of twenty-five miles, halted at sundown on the farm of old Wessel, whom I found very drunk. My road lay through vast plains, intersected with ridges of stony hills. On these plains I found the game in herds ex- ceeding any thing I had yet seen—springbok in troops of at least ten thousand; also large bodies of quaggas, wildebeest, blesbok, and ‘several ostriches. I had hoped to have purchased some horses from Wessel, but he was too drunk to transact any business, informing me that: he was a Boer, and could not endure the sight of En- glishmen, at the same time shoving me out of the house, much to the horror of his wife and daughters, who seemed rather, nice people. Two more days of hard marching, under a burning sun, brought me to the farm of Mynheer Stinkum, which I reached late on the evening of the 7th. , H. informed me that about fifteen miles to the west of his farm I should fall in with a Boer of the wandering tribe who would direct me to a remote vley in the Karroo, a stances of the kind happened both to myself and to Mr. Oswell of the H. E. I.-C. &., a dashing sportsman, and one of the best hunters I ever met, who performed two hunting expeditions into the interior. Mr. Oswell and a companion. were one day galloping along the shady banke of the Limpopo, in full pursuit of a wounded buffalo, when they were suddenly joined by three lions, who seemed determized to dispute the chase with them. The buffalo held stoutly on, followed by the three lions, Oswell and his companion bringing up the rear. Very soon the slions sprang upon the mighty bull and dragged him to the ground, when the most terrific scuffle ensued. Mr. Oswell and friend then approached. and opened their fire upon the royal family, and, as each ball struck the lions, they seemed to consider it was a poke from the horns of the buffa- lo, and redoubled their attentions tohim. At length the sportsmen suc- ceeded in bowling over two of the lions, upon which the third, finding the ground too hot for him, made off. SWARMS OF FLIES=OOLOGY. 9] good many miles beyond his encampment, to which he advised me at once to proceed and hunt in its vicinity. He represented that district as not having been recent- ly disturbed by hunters, and doubted not but I should find gemsbok and other varieties of game abundant It being now summer, flies prevailed in fearful swarms in the abodes of the Boers, attracted thither by the smell of meat and milk. On entering Stinkum’s house, I found the walls of his large sitting-room actu- ally black with these disgusting insects. They are a cruel plague to the settlers in Southern Africa, and it often requires considerable ingenuity to eat one’s din- ner or drink a cup of coffee without consuming a num- ber of them. When food is served up, two or three Hottentots or Bush-girls are always in attendance with fans made of ostrich feathers, which they keep continu- ally waving: over the food till the repast is finished. This morning I purchased a handsome chestnut pony from a Boer named Duprey, a field cornet, from whom I obtained an-egg of the bustand of the largest species for my collection, oology being a subject in which for many years of my life I had taken great interest, hav- ing in my possession one of the finest collections in Great Britain, amassed with muqh toil and danger. I have descended most of the loftiest precipices in the central Highlands of Scotland, and along the sea-shore, with a rope roundgy waist, in quest of the eggs of the various eagles and falcons which have their eyries in those almost inaccessible situations. Aniong Stink- um’s stud was a handsome brown gelding, to which I took a great fancy ; and after consulting for some time with his wife, he made up his mind to part with him ‘The lowest price was tobe £18. After a good deal of bargaining, however, F persuaded him to part with him 92 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. ‘for £12 in cash, fifteen pounds of coffee, and twenty pounds of gunpowder. I christened this horse ‘ Sun- day,” in honor of the day on which I obtained him. This bargain being concluded, I inspanned, and trek- ked to the wandering Boer, whom I reached about an hour after sundown. This man’s name was Gous; he lived in a small canvas tent pitched between his two wagons, round which his vast flocks of sheep assembled every evening, his cattle and horses running day and night in a neigh- boring range of grassy hills. His wife was one of the best-looking women I met among the Boers: she in- formed me that she was of French extraction. . On the following morning I breakfasted with Gous in his tent: he had lots of flesh, milk, and wild honey, which last ‘article was reported abundant that season. He offered to sell to me a brown horse of good appearance; his price was too high, but at a subsequent period we came to terms, and I bought him. After breakfast I inspan- ned, and, having proceeded a few miles across a glow- ing plain, on which I counted fourteen tall ostriches stalking amid large herds of other game, I reached a periodical stream, where I outspanned, the sun being intensely powerful. Here I found another Boer, named Sweitrs, encamped with his flocks and herds, having been obliged to leave his farm, situated far in the depths of the Karroo, from want of wate: Sweirs was an elderly man, but had been a keen sportsman, and en- tertained me with many interesting anecdotes relative to the habits of the game and of his hunting adventures in his early days. He informed me that he remember- ed lions extremely abundant in those districts, and that a few were still to be met with. He related to me in- stances where he had seen the gemsbok beat off the WILD GEESE AND OTHER GAME. 95 lion, and he had also come upon the carcasses of both rotting on the plain, the body of the lion being trans- fixed by the long, sharp horns of the powerful gemsbok so that he could not extract them, and thus both had perished together. He also mentioned that, notwith- standing the agility of the springbok, he had often known the lion dash-to the.ground two, three, and four in quick succession in a troop. Four of my oxen being: footsore and unable to pro- ceed, I left them in charge of old Sweirs, and in the cool of the. evening I inspanned, and, having proceeded about’five miles through an extremely wild and deso- late-looking country, on clearing a neck in a range of low, rocky hills I came full in view of the vley or pool of water beside which I had been directed to encamp. The breadth of this vley was about three hundred yards. One side of it was grassy, and patronized by several flocks of Egyptian wild geese,-a species of bar- nacle; wild-ducks, egrets, and cranes. The other side was bare, and here the game drank, and the margin of the water was trampled by the feet of wild animals like an English horse-pond. There being no trees be- side which to form our camp, we drew up our wagons among some low bushes, about four hundred yards from the vley. When the sun went.down I selected the three horses which were to carry myself and two after-riders in the chase of the unicorn on thg, following morning, and directed my boys to give them a liberal supply of forage to eat durigg the night.* = The oryx, or gemshok, to which I was now about to direct my at- tention more particularly, is about the most beautiful and remarkable of all the antelope tribe. _ It is the animal which is supposed to have given rise to the fable of the unicom, from its long, straight horns, when seen, en projile, so exactly covering one another as to give it the ap- pearance of having but one. It possesses the erect mane, long, sweep- 94 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. On the 10th of December, every thing having been made ready overnight, I took coffee, saddied up, and started an hour before day-dawn, accompanied by Co- bus and Jacob as after-riders, leading a spare horse with my pack-saddle. We held a southwesterly course, and at length reached the base of a little hillock slight- ly elevated above the surrounding scenery. Here ] dismounted, and, having ascended to the summit, ex- amined the country all around minutely with my spy- glass, but could not see any thing like the oryx. I was in the act of putting up my glass again, when, to my intense delight, I perceived, feeding within foyr hundred yards, in a hollow between two hillocks, a glo- rious herd of about five-and-twenty of the long-wished- ing black tail, and general appearance of the horse, with the head and hoofs of an antelope. It is robust in its form, squarely and compactly built, and very noble in its bearing. Its height is about that of an ass, and in color it slightly resembles that animal. The beautiful black bands which eccentrically adorn its head, giving it the appearance of wearing a stall-collar, together with the manner in which the rump and thighs are painted, impart to it a character peculiar to itself. The adult male measures three feet ten inches in height at the shoulder. The gemsbok was destined by nature to adorn the parched karroos and arid deserts of South Africa, for which description of country it is admirably adapted. It thrives and attains high condition in barren re- gions, where it might be imagined that a locust would not find subsist- ence, and, burning as is the climate, it is perfectly independent of wa- ter, which, from my own observation, and the repeated reports both of the Boers and aborigines, Iam convinced it never by any chance tastes. Its flesh is deservedly esteemed, and ranks next to the eland. At certain seggons of the year they carry a great quantity of fat, at which time they can more easily be ridden into. Owing to the even nature of the ground which the oryx frequents, its shy and suspicious disposi- tion, and the extreme distances fri water to which it must be follow- ed, it is never stalked or driven to an ambush like other antelopes, but is hunted. on horseback, and ridden down by a long, severe, tail-on-end chase. Of several animals in South Africa which are hunted in this manner, and may be ridden into by a horse, the oryx is by far the swift- est and most enduring. They are widely diffused throughout the cen- ter and western parts of South Africa. HUNTING GEMSBOKS. 95 for gemsbok, with a fine old bull feeding at a little dis- tance by himself, their long, sharp horns glancing in the morning sun like the cheese-toasters of a troop of dragoons. I scarcely allowed myself a moment to feast my eyes on the thrilling sight before me, when I re- turned to my boys, and with them concerted a plan to circumvent them.* We agreed that Jacob and I should endeavor to ride by a circuitous course a long way to windward of the herd, and that Cobus should then give chase and drive them toward us. The wind was westerly, but the dis- trict to which this herd seemed to belong unfortunate- ly lay to the northward. Jacob and I rode steadily on, occasionally looking behind us, and, presently taking up a commanding position, strained our eyes in the di- * At this time I was very much in the dark as to the speed of the gemsbok, having been led by a friend to believe that a person even of my weight, if tolerably mounted, could invariably, after a long chase, ride right mto them. This, however, is not the case. My friend was deceived in the opinion which he had formed. The fact of the matter was,that he had been hunting a long way to windward of a party who were hunting on the same plains with him, and several of the gemeboks which he had killed had previously been severely chased by the other party. In the whole course of my adventures with gemsbok I only re- member four occasions, when mounted on the pick of my stud (which I nearly sacrificed in the attempt), that alone and unassisted I succeed: ed in riding the oryx to a.stand-still. The plan which I adopted, and which is generally used by the Boers, was to mount my light Hotten- tots or Bushmen on horses of great endurance, and thus, as it were, convert them into greyhounds, with which I coursed the gemsbok as we do stags in Scotland with our rough deer-hounds. A “ tail-on-end” chase is sometimes saved, in. parts where the hunter, from a previous knowledge of the country, knows the course which.the gemsbok will take; when, having first discovered the herd, the after-rider is directed to remain quiet until the hunter shall have proceeded by a wide semi- circular course some miles to windward of the herd, which being ac complished, the Hottentot, gives the troop a tremendous burst toward his master, who, by riding hard for their line, generally manages to get within easy shot as the panting herd strains past him. : 96 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA rection of the gemsboks, in the full expectation of see- ing them flying toward us. After waiting a consider- able time and nothing appearing, I felt convinced that we were wrong, and in this conjecture I judged well. A slight inequality in the plain had concealed from our view the retreating herd, which had started in:a north- erly course. Cobus had long since dashed into the herd, and was at that moment flying across the plains after them, I knew not in what direction. After gal- loping athwart the boundless plains in a state border- ing on distraction, I gave it up, and, accompanied by Jacob, returned to the wagons in any thing but a placid frame of mind. About two hours after, Cobus reached the wagon, having ridden the old bull to a stand-still. - The old fellow had lain down repeatedly toward the end of the chase, and at length could proceed no further, and Cobus, after waiting some time and seeing no signs of his master, had reluctantly left him. In the height of the day the sun was intensely powerful; I felt much disgusted at my want of luck in my first attempt, and, burning with anxiety for another trial, I resolved to take the field again in the afternoon, more especially as we had not a pound of flesh in camp. Between 3 and 4 P.M. I again sallied forth with the same after- riders leading a spare horse. We cantered across plains to the northeast, and soon fell in with ostriches and quaggas, and, after riding a few miles through rather bushy ground, a large herd of hartebeest cantered across our path, and these were presently joined by two or three herds of quaggas and wildebeests, which kept re- treating as we advanced, their course being marked by clouds of red dust. - At length I perceived a herd of ash- colored bucks stealing right away ahead of the other EXCITING CHASE. 97 game; I at once knew them to be gemsbok, and gave chase at a hard canter. I gradually gained upon them, und, after riding hard for about two miles, I ordered Cobus to go ahead and endeavor to close with them. At this moment we had reached the border of a slight depression on the plain, down which the herd led, af- fording me a perfect view of the exciting scene. The gemsbok now increased their space, but Cobus’s horse, which was a good one with a very light weight, gained upon them at every stride, and before they had reach- ed the opposite side of the plain he was in the middle of the foaming herd, and had turned out a beautiful cow with a pair of uncommonly fine long horns. In one minute he dexterously turned her in my direction, and, heading her, J obtained a fine chance, and rolled her over with two bullets in her shoulder. My thirst was intense, and, the gemsbok having a fine breast of milk, I milked her into my mouth, and obtained a drink of the sweetest beverage I ever tasted. While I was thus engaged, Cobus was shifting his saddle from the “ Immense Brute” to the gray, which being accomplished, I ordered him to renew the chase and try to ride down the old bull for me. “We fasten- ed the “ Immense Brute” to a bush beside the dead gemsbok, and then, mounting the horse which Jacob had been riding, I followed on as best I might. On gaining the first ridge, I perceived the troop of oryx about two miles ahead of me, ascending another ridge at the extremity of the plain, and Cobus riding hard for them about a mile astern, but rapidly gaining on them. Oryx and boy soon disappeared over the dis- tant ridge, the boy still far behind. The country here changed from grass and bushes to extreme sterility ; the whole ground was undermined with the holes of Vou. L—E 98 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. colonies of meercat or mouse-hunts. This burrowed ground, which is common throughout these parts, was extremely distressing to our horses, the soil giving way at every step, and my steed soon began to flag. On gaining the distant ridge a wide plain lay before me. I looked in every direction, straining my eyes to catch a glimpse of Cobus and the oryx, but they were no- where to be seen. At length, after riding about two miles further in the direction which he seemed to hold when I had last seen him, I detected his white shirt on a ridge a long way to my right, and on coming up to him I found that he had ridden the old bull to a stand-still: the old fellow was actually lying panting beside a green bush. I thought him one of the most lovely animals I had ever beheld, and I could have gaz- ed for hours at him; but I was now many miles from my wagons, without a chance of water, and dying of thirst, so I speedily finished the poor oryx, and having carefully cut off the head, commenced skinning him. _ It was now late—too late to take home the cow oryx that night; the bull was much too far from my camp to think of saving any part of the flesh. I therefore sent off Cobus to the wagons to fetch water and bread, desiring him to meet me at a spot where the cow gems- bok was lying, where I resolvod to sleep, to protect her from hyeenas and jackals; but before Jacob and I had. accomplished the skinning, and secured the skin and the head upon the horse, night had set in. My thirst was now fearful, and becoming more and more raging. I would have given any thing I possessed for a botile of water. In the hope of meeting Cobus, Jacob and I rode slowly forward, and endeavored to find out the place; but darkness coming on, and there being no feature in the desert to guide me, I lost my way en- A NIGHT IN THE DESERT. 99 tirely, and after wandering for several hours in the dark, and firing blank shots at intervals, we lay down in the open plain to sleep till morning, having tied our horses to a thorny bush beside where we lay. I felt very cold all night, but my thirst continued raging. My clothes consisted of a shirt and a pair of knee-breeches. My bed was the bull’s hide laid over a thorny bush, which imparted to my tough mattress the elasticity of a feath- er bed. Having slept about two hours, I awoke, and found that our horses had absconded; after which I slept little. Day dawned, and I rose; and on looking about, neither Jacob nor I had the most remote idea of the ground we were on, nor of the position of our camp. Within a few hundred yards of us was a small hill, which we ascended and looked about, but could not in the least recognize the. ground.. I, however, ascertain- ed the points of the compass and the position of my camp by placing my left hand toward the rising sun. I was then returning to the spot where I had slept, when suddenly I perceived, standing within three hund- red yards of me, the horse which I had fastened beside the cow oryx on the preceding evening, and on going up I found both allright. Iimmediately saddled the horse and rode hard for camp, ordering Jacob to commence skinning the cow, and promising to send him water and bread as soon as I reached the wagons. On my way thither I met Cobus on horseback, bear- ing bread and a bottle of water, wandering he knew not whither, having entirely lost his reckoning. My thirst had by this time departed, so I did not touch the water, but allowed him to take it on to Jacob. He in- formed me that John Stofolus was coming on with the baggage-wagon to take up the venison, and before rid. 100 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA, ing far I fell in with him, having, with a Hottentot’s usual good sense, come away without water in the casks. Having shown him how to steer, I rode on to the camp, which I was right glad to reach, and felt much refreshed with a good bow] of tea. I was active- ly employed during the rest of the day in preserving,the two oryx-heads for my collection. In the evening a horseman on a jaded steed was seen approaching the wagons, accompanied by an after-rider leading a spare horse. This was my friend Paterson, who had suc- ceeded in obtaining a fortnight’s leave of absence, and with whom that evening, over a gemsbok stew, I “ fought my battles o’er again.” Our respective studs being considerably done up and in need of rest, the following day was devoted to “dulce otium,” washing our rifles, and writing up the log. On the 14th we went out on foot after a troop of ostriches, one of which we wounded, and came home much exhausted. The very ground was as hot as the side of a: stove. The following day we were visited by a party of Boers from the neighboring encampments, who had come to see how we were getting on. Find- ing our brandy good, they made themselves very agreea- ble, and sat for many hours conversing with us. The leading subject of conversation was gemsbok and lion shooting, and the slaying and capturing of whole tribes of marauding Bushmen in by-gone days. They in- formed us that when they first occupied these districts the game was far more abundant, and eland and koo- doos were plentiful. Their herds of cattle were con- stantly attacked and plundered by the vindictive wild Bushmen.* The Boers informed us that in a country * Unlike the Caffre tribes, who lift cattle for the purpose of preserv- ing them and breeding from them, the sole object of the Bushmen is to RAIDS OF THE BUSHMEN, 101 to the southwest of our actual position, a tribe of these natives for many years were in the habit of practicing raids with impunity upon the herds of the farmers in the Raw-feldt, assisted by a vast and impracticable des- ert which intervened between their country and the re fertile pastoral districts. ‘They seemed to prefer Mromely dry seasons for these incursions, their object in this being that their pursuers, who of course follow- ed on horseback while they were always on foot, should not obtain water for their horses. Their own wants in this respect they provided for in the following curi- ous manner. They had regular stages at long inter- vals in a direct line across the desert, where, assisted by their wives, they concealed water in ostrich eggs, which they brought from amazing distances, and these spots, being marked by some slight inequality in the ground, they could discover either by day or night from their perfect knowledge of the country. They were thus enabled fearlessly to drive off a herd of cattle, whose sufferings from thirst gave them little concern, and to travel day and night, while their mounted pursuers, re- drive them to their secluded habitations in the desert, where they mas sacre them indiscriminately, and continue feasting and gorging them- selves until the flesh becomes putrid. When a Kaffir has lifted cattle, and finds himself'so hotly pursued by the owners that he can not escape with his booty, he betakes himself to flight, and leaves the cattle un- scathed; but the spiteful Bushmen have a most provoking and cruel system of horribly mutilating the poor cattle when they find that they are likely to fall into the hands of their rightful owners, by discharging their poisoned arrows at them, hamstringing them, and cutting lumps of flesh off their living carcasses. This naturally so incenses the owners that they never show the Bushmen any quarter, but shoot them down right and left, sparing only the children, whom they tame and convert into servants. The people who suffer from these depredations are Boers, Griquas, and Bechuanas, all of whom are possessed of large herds of cattle, and the massacres of the Bushmen, arising from these raids, are endless. 102 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. quiring light to hold the spoor, could necessarily only follow by day, and were soon obliged to give up the pur- suit on account of their horses being without water CHAPTER VI. Hard Chase of an Oryx—A brindled Gnoo reduces himself to a “ dead Lock,” and is taken—Paterson slays a Gemsbok and a Bull Wilde- beest—He leaves for Colesberg—Ostrich Eggs—Novel Method of* carrying them—Anecdotes of the Ostrich—Affray with a Porcupine —He proves a rough Rider for my Horse—Narrow Escape from the Thrust of a dying Oryx—The grateful Water-root—Troops of Spring- boks cover the Face of the Land—Their Migrations—The finest shot at my Leisure—Beer Vley. Ar an early hour on the morning of the 16th Pat- erson and I again took the field, accompanied by our three after-riders, and, having ridden several miles in a northerly direction, we sjarted an oryx, to which Pat- erson and his after-rider gave immediate chase. I then rode in an easterly direction, and shortly fell in with a fine old cow oryx, which we instantly charged. She stole away at a killing pace, her black tail streaming in the wind, and her long, sharp horns laid well back over her shoulders. Aware of her danger, and anxious to gain the desert, she put forth her utmost speed, and strained across the bushy plain. She led us a tearing chase of upward of five miles in a northerly course, Co- bus sticking well into her, and I falling far behind. After a sharp burst of about three miles, Cobus and the gray disappeared over a ridge about half a mile ahead of me. I here mounted a fresh horse, which had EXCITING CHASE. 103 peen led by Jacob, and followed. On gaining the ridge, I perceived the gray disappearing over another ridge a fearfully long way ahead. When I reached this point I commanded an extremely extensive prospect, but no living object was visible on the desolate plain. While deliberating in which direction to ride, I sud- denly heard a pistol shot some distance to my left, which I knew to be Cobus’s signal that the oryx was at bay. Having ridden half a mile, I discovered Cobus dismounted in a hollow, and no oryx inview. He had succeeded in riding the quarry to a stand, and I not immediately appearing, he very injudiciously had at once lost sight of the buck and left it. Having up- braided Cobus in no measured terms for his stupidity, I sought to retrieve the fortunes of the day by riding in the direction in which he had left the oryx. The ground here was uneven, and interspersed with low hillocks. We extended our front, and rode on up wind, and, hav- ing crossed two or three ridges, I discovered a troop of bucks a long way ahead. Having made for these, they turned out to be hartebeests. At this moment I per- ceived three magnificent oryx a short distance to my left. On observing us, they cantered along the ridge toward a fourth oryx, which I at once perceived to be ‘embossed with foam and dark with soil,” and knew to be the an- telope sought for. Once more we charged her. Our horses had now considerably recovered their wind, but the poor oryx was much distressed; and after a chase of half a mile, I jumped off my horse and sent a bullet through her ribs, which brought her to a stand, when I finished her with the other barrel. She proved a fine old cow with very handsome horns; the spot on which she fell being so sterile that we could not even obtain the smallest bushes with which to conceal her from the 104 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. vultures, we covered her with my after-rider’s saddle- eloth, which consisted of a large blanket: the head, on which I placed great value, we cut off and bore along with us. On my way home I came across Paterson’s after- rider, “‘jaging” a troop of seven gemsbok, but fearfully to leeward, his illustrious master being nowhere in sight. An hour after I reached the camp Paterson came in, in a towering rage, having been unlucky in both his chases. I now dispatched one of my wagons to bring home my oryx. It returned about twelve o’elock that night, carrying the skin of my gemsbok and also a mag- nificent old blue wildebeest (the brindled gnoo), which the Hottentots had obtained in an extraordinary man- ner. He was found with one of his fore legs caught over his horn, so that he could not run, and they ham- strung him and cut his throat. He had probably man- aged to get himself into this awkward attitude while Sighting with some of his fellows. The vultures had sonsumed all the flesh of the gemsbok, and likewise torn my blanket with which I had covered her. On the following day, all our steeds being very much done up, Paterson and I visited the neighboring Boers to endeavor to buy and hire some horses. I bought one clipper of Mynheer Gous for £25, and called him ‘“‘ Grouse,” and Paterson succeeded in hiring one, and with these, on the following day, we continued our campaign against the gemsboks. Paterson’s after-rider not being well up to his work, I lent him Cobus, and on this occasion his perseverance was rewarded by a noble gemsbok, which he rode down and slew, and also a fine bull blue wildebeest, which last animal is rather rare in these parts. We had one more day together, after which, much to my regret, Paterson was obliged OSTRICH EGGS. 105 to take leave of me and start for Colesberg, his leave of absence having expired. One of his horses being foot-sore, I purchased him, in the hope of his soon re- covering, which after a few days’ rest he did: I called him “ Paterson,” after his old master. My stud now consisted of eight horses; but three of them were miss- ing, and I dispatched Jacob in quest of them, who re- turned on the third day bringing them with him, hav- ing followed the spoor upward of fifty miles. In the evening two of the Hottentots walked in to camp, bending under a burden of ostrich eggs, having discovered a nest containing five-and-thirty. Their manner of carrying them amused me. Having divest- ed themselves of their leather “ crackers,” which in co- lonial phrase means trowsers, they had secured the an- kles with rheimpys, and, having thus converted them into bags, they had crammed them with as many ostrich eggs as they would contain. They left about half of the number behind concealed in the sand, for which they returned on the following morning. While encamped at this vley we fell in with several nests of ostriches, and here I first ascertained a singular propensity pe- culiar to these birds. If a person discovers the nest and does not at once remove the eggs, on returning he will most: probably find them all smashed. This the old birds almost invariably do, even when the intruder has not handled the eggs or so much as ridden within five yards of them. The nest is merely a hollow scoop- ed in the sandy soil, generally among heath or other low bushes ; its diameter is about seven feet; it is believed that two hens often lay in one nest. The hatehing of the eggs is not left, as is generally believed, to the heat of the sun, but, on the contrary, the cock relieves the hen in the incubation. These eggs form a consider- E2 106 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. able item in the Bushman’s cuisine, and the shells are converted into water-flasks, cups, and dishes. I have often seen Bushgirls and Bakalahari women, who be- long to the wandering Bechuana tribes of the Kalahari desert, corne down to the fountains from their remote habitations, sometimes situated at an amazing distance, each carrying on her back a kaross or a net-work con- taining from twelve to fifteen ostrich egg-shells, which had been emptied by a small aperture at one end: these. they fill with water, and cork up the hole with grass. A favorite method adopted by the wild Bushman for approaching the ostrich and other varieties of game is to clothe himself in the skin of one of these birds, in which, taking care of the wind, he stalks about the plain, cunningly imitating the gait and motions of the ostrich until within range, when, with a well-directed poisoned arrow from his tiny bow, he can generally seal the fate of any of the ordinary varieties of game. These insignificant-looking arrows are about two feet six inch- es in length; they consist of a slender reed, with a sharp bone head, thoroughly poisoned with a composi- tion, of which the principal ingredients are obtained sometimes from a succulent herb, having thick leaves, yielding a poisonous milky juice, and sometimes from the jaws of snakes. ‘The bow barely exceeds three feet in length; its string is of twisted sinews. When a Bushman finds an ostrich’s nest, he ensconces himself in it, and there awaits the return of the old birds, by which means he generally secures the pair. It is by means of these little arrows that the majority of the fine plumes are obtained which grace the heads of the fair throughout the civilized world. It was now the height of summer, and every day the heat of the sun was terrific, but there was gen- AFFRAY WITH A PORCUPINE. . 107 erally a breeze of wind, and the nights were cool. Our- vley was daily decreasing, and I saw that, unless we were visited by rains, it would soon be no more. On the morning of the 22d I had rather an absurd adven- ture with a porcupine, which cost me my pack-saddle, the only thing of the sort I had in camp. Long before day-break I saddled up, and rode north with my two after-riders and a spare horse with the pack-saddle. As day dawned I came upon a handsome old porcupine, takine his morning airing. At first sight he reminded me of a badger. Unwilling to discharge my rifle, as it was probable that we were in the vicinity of oryx, I re- solved to attempt his destruction with the thick end of my “‘jambok,” the porcupine, like the seal, being easily killed with a blow on the nose. I jumped off my horse, and after a short race, in which I tried him with many turns, when he invariably doubled back be- tween my legs, giving me the full benefit of his bris- tling quills, I succeeded in killing him with the jambok, but not till I had received several wounds in my hands. My boys the while sat grinning in their saddles, en- joying the activity of their “ baas.” Having covered him with bushes, we rode on, and shortly came upon an immense, compact herd of several thousand “trekking” springboks, which were exceed- ingly tame, and in the middle of them stood two oryx. These we managed for the first time to drive in a south- erly direction, being that in which the camp lay ; and, after a sharp and rather circular burst, I headed the finer, and bowled her over. She proved to be a young cow about three years old. Having disemboweled her, and prepared her for the pack-saddle with a cowteau-de- chasse, by splitting the brisket, passing the knife along the gristly bones on one side of it, and breaking the 108—Ci«. ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. back by a dexterous touch of the knife, where certain ribs well known to the hunter join the vertebre, where- by the animal can more easily be balanced on the pack- saddle, we succeeded with great difficulty in placing her on “ Sunday,” and rode slowly for the place where we had left the porcupine. We placed him on the oryx,:and secured him with a rheim, but we had not proceeded far when some of the quills pricked the steed, upon which he commenced bucking and prancing in the most frantic manner, which of course made matters ten times worse, causing the porcupine to beat the devil’s tattoo on his back. The gemsbok’s head, also, which, being a poor one, I had not cut off, unfortunate- ly got adrift, and kept dangling about his haunches, the sharp horns striking his belly at every spring. He broke loose from Jacob, who led him, and set off across the country at a terrific pace, eventually smashing the pack-saddle, but still failing to disengage himself from the gemsbok, whose hind and fore feet, being fastened together, slipped round under his belly, impeding his motions, and in this condition he was eventually se- cured, being considerably lacerated about the haunches by the horns of the oryx. Next day Cobus and I fell in with the finest bull oryx I had yet met, which, after a severe chase, we rode into and slew. For some evenings previous a large bright comet had appeared in the southwest, hav- ing a tearing, fiery tail, which strange meteor, to the best of my recollection, shone brightly in the clear firm- ament for five or six weeks. We lived well, but lone- lily. My camp abounded with every delicacy—tongues, brains, marrow-bones, kidneys, rich soup, with the most delicious venison in the world, &c., &c., and a constant supply of ostrich eggs. The 25th was cool and cloudy, THE WATER-ROOT. 109 being the first day that the sky had been overcast since T had left the Thebus Flats. In the afternoon I resolved to ride far into the oryx country, sleep under a bush, and hunt them on the fol- lowing morning. I accordingly left my wagons about 3 P.M., with my two after-riders and a spare horse, and rode about fifteen miles in a northerly course, when we secured our horses to a bush, to leeward of which we slept, On my way thither I dismounted on an arid plain to breathe our steeds and dig up some bulbs of the water-root* for immediate consumption, my thirst * This interesting root, which has doubtless saved many from dying of thirst, is met with throughout the most parched plains of the Karroo. It is a large oval bulb, varying from six to ten inches in diameter, and is of an extremely juicy consistence, with rather an insipid flavor. It is protected by a thin brown skin, which is easily removed with the back of a knife. It has small, insignificant narrow leaves, with little black dots on them, which are not easily detected by an inexperienced eye. The ground round it is so baked with the sun that it has to be dug out with a knife. The top of the bulb is discovered about eight or nine inches from the surface of the ground, and the earth all round it must then be carefully removed. A knowledge of this plant is invalu- able to him whose’ avocations lead him into these desolate regions. Throughout the whole extent of the great Kalahari desert, and the vast tracts of country adjoining thereto, an immense variety of bulbs and roots of this juicy description succeed one another monthly, there being hardly a season in the year at which the poot Bakalahari, provided with a sharp-pointed stick hardened in the fire, can not obtain a meal, being intimately acquainted with each and all the herbs and roots which a bountiful hand has provided for his sustenance. There are also several succulent plants, having thick, juicy leaves, which in like manner an- swer the purpose of food and drink. Above all, a species of bitter water-melon is thickly scattered over the entire surface of the known parts of the great Kalaharidesert. These often supply the place of food and water to the wild inhabitants of those: remote regions, and it is stated by the Bakalahari that these melons im- prove in flavor as they penetrate further to the west. Most of these roots are much eaten by the gemsboks, which are led by instinct to root them out. The elephants also, apprised by their acute sense of smell of their position, feed upon them, and whole tracts may be seen. plowed up by the tusks of these sagacious animals, in quest of them. 110 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. being very severe. While cantering along we passed several troops of hartebeests and ostriches, and late in the day I observed a small troop of oryx. On the 26th I raised my head from my saddle about 1 o’clock A.M., imagining the day was dawning, and, having reused my after-riders, we proceeded to saddle our horses ; but I soon perceived that the bright moon, across which a bank of clouds was at that moment pass- ing, had deceived me, and accordingly we off-saddled, and in a few minutes I was once more asleep. Toward morning, a smart shower of rain, suddenly falling on my face, broke in abruptly on my slumbers, when we once more arose, and, when day dawned, we saddled up, and held a northerly course. "We found the fresh tracks of hyenas not more than fifteen yards from our horses. Within a hundred yards of our bush we at once discovered the spoor of an old bull gemsbok which had fed past us during the night ; and we had proceeded but a short distance when we discovered a herd of seven noble oryx within a quarter of a mile of us, pasturing in a low hollow; upon which I directed Cobus to ride round and “jag” them up to me, while I took up a po- sition in front. The oryx presently charged past me; but Cobus had started after an old bull which I did not see, and which he rode to a stand. To these seven oryx I accordingly gave chase, and before the first mile ‘I was riding within a hundred yards of them. Here we were joined by another fine herd of twenty-two oryx, nearly all full grown, and carrying superb horns. On we swept ata thrilling pace, and, after riding upward of another mile, I pulled up to have a shot ; but ‘ Grouse,” which I rode, being very restless, the herd got a long way ahead before I could fire. I however wounded one fine old cow, which I ascertained some hours afterward. AN UNSUCCESSFUL CHASE. 1il Having fired, I resumed the chase, and, observing that the finest bull of the first herd seemed distressed, I en- deavored to cut him off from the herd, which I suc- ceeded in doing, and, in the excitement of the moment, determined to follow him as long as my horse could go. Away and away we wildly flew, the oryx leading me a cruel long chase due north, tail-on-end, from my wag- ons, over a very heavy country, entirely undermined by the endless burrows of the mouse-hunts. My poor steed became at length completely knocked up, while the oryx seemed to gain fresh speed, and increase the distance between us. I felt that my horse could not do it. One chance alone remained: there was still a shot in my left barrel. I pulled up, and, vaulting from my panting steed, with trembling hand and beating heart I cocked my rifle and let fly at the round stern of the retreating antelope. The ball passed within a few inches of his ear, and raised the dust about fifty yards in advance of him; and I had the mortification of Laving to content myself with watching his lessen- ing form as he retreated across the boundless waste. Faint and weary, and intensely mortified at the issue of my long-continued chase, my lips cracking, and my tongue and throat parched. with raging thirst, I threw my bridle on my arm, and led my weary steed home- ward, and I inwardly wished that, instead of my being a man of fourteen stone weight, nature had formed me of the most Liliputian dimensions. I was now a fear- fal long way from my camp; hills that in the morning were blue before me, were now equally blue far, far be- hind me; “Grouse” could scarcely walk along with me, nor did he ever recover that morning’s work. Upon my return I observed Jacob making for me, leading a fresh horse, of which I stood not a little in 112 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. need; he stated that he had seen an oryx standing at a distance on the plain, which bore the appearance of being wounded. We'then made for this oryx, and on my overhauling her with my spy-glass I saw plainly that she was badly hit. On my cantering up to her she ran but a short distance, when she gave ‘in, and, facing about, stood at bay. I foolishly approached her without firing, and very nearly paid dearly for my folly ; for, lowering her sharp horns, she made a desperate rush toward me, and would inevitably have run me through had not her strength at this moment failed her, when she staggered forward and fell to the ground. On the following day the waters of my vley sank into the earth and disappeared: the water for some days past had become very ‘ brack,” making myself and my people very unwell. On the 28th I had the satisfaction of beholding, for the first time, what I had often heard the Boers allude to-——viz., a trek-bokken,” or grand migration of spring- poks. This was, I think, the most extraordinary and striking scene, as connected with beasts of the chase, that I have ever beheld. For about two hours before the day dawned I had been lying awake in my wagon, listening to the grunting of the bucks within two hund- red yards of me, imagining that some large herd of springboks was feeding beside my camp; but on my rising when it was clear, and looking about me, I be- held the ground to the northward of my camp actually edvered with a dense living mass of springboks, march- ing slowly and steadily along, extending from an open- ing in a long range of hills on the west, through which they continued pouring, like the flood of some great river, to a ridge about a mile to the northeast, over which they disappeared. The breadth of the ground - MIGRATION OF SPRINGBOKS. 113 they covered might have been somewhere about half a mile. I stood upon the fore chest of my wagon for nearly.two hours, lost in wonder at-the novel and won- derful scene which was passing before me, and had some difficulty in convincing myself that it was reality which I beheld, and not the wild and exaggerated pic- ture of a hunter’s dream. During this time their vast legions continued streaming through the neck in the hills in one unbroken compact phalanx. At length I saddled up, and rode into the middle of them with my rifle and after-riders, and fired into the ranks until four- teen had fallen, when I cried “ Enough.” We then re- traced our steps to secure from the ever-voracious vul- tures the venison which lay strewed along my gory track. Having collected the springboks at different bushes, and concealed them with brushwood, we re- turned to camp, where I partook of coffee while my men were inspanning. A person anxious to kill many springboks might have bagged thirty or forty that morning. I never, in all my subsequent career, fell in with so dense a herd of these antelopes, nor found them allow me to ride so near them. Having inspanned, we proceeded with the wag- ons to take up the fallen game, which being accom- plished, we held for the small periodical stream beside which the wandering Boers were encamped, that point being in my line of march for Beer Vley. Vast and surprising as was the herd of springboks which I had that morning witnessed, it was infinitely surpassed by what I beheld on the march from my vley to old Sweirs’s eamp ; for, on our clearing the low range of hills through which the springboks had been pouring, I beheld the boundless plains, and even the hill sides which stretch- ed away on every side of me, thickly covered, not with 114 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. “herds,” hut with “one vast herd” of springboks; far as the eye could strain the landscape was alive with them, until they softened down into a dim red mass of living creatures. To endeavor to form any idea of the amount of ante- lopes which I that day beheld were vain; but I have, nevertheless, no hesitation in stating that some hund- reds of thousands of springboks were that morning with- in the compass of my vision. On reaching the encamp- ment of the Boers, I outspanned, and set about cutting up and salting my venison: the Boers had likewise been out with their “roers,” and shot as many as they could carry home. Old Sweirs acknowledged that it was a very fair “ trek-bokken,” but observed that it was not many when compared with what he had seen. ‘“ You this morning,” he remarked, ‘‘ behold only one flat cov- ered with springboks, but I give you my word that I have ridden a long day’s journey over a succession of flats covered with them, as far as I could see, as thick as sheep standing ina fold.” Ispent the following two days with the Boers. Each morning and evening we rode out and hunted the springboks, killing as many as we could bring home. The vast armies of the spring- boks, however, did not tarry long in that neighborhood ; having quickly consumed every green herb, they pass- ed away to give other districts a benefit, thus leaving the Boers no alternative but to strike their tents, and remove with their flocks and herds to lands where they might find pasture. On the morning of the 31st I left this periodicai stream, whose name was ‘ Rhinoceros Pool,” and held on for Beer Vley, which I reached in about eight hours. Our march was a very hot one, across a desolate bar. ren country destitute of water. The country, though BEER VLEY. 115 barren, was not, however, without game: I saw sever- al herds of springboks, of from five hundred to two thousand in each; also several troops of gigantic-look- ing ostriches, and abundance of bustard and Namaqua partridges. I shot two springboks, and broke the fore leg of a third. Beer Viey, at the southern end of which I had now encamped, is a very extensive, low-lying, level plain; its length might be somewhat about twen- ty miles, and its preadth averaging from one to two miles. Through the entire length of this grassy vley runs, in the rainy season, a deep stream of water, which meanders in a very serpentine course along the center of the plain, and, overflowing its banks, irrigates and enriches the surrounding pasture. At that season, however, this channel was perfectly dry, yet the plain was covered with rich green grass. The country sur- rounding Beer Vley is extremely desolate and sterile, consisting of low rocky hills and undulating sandy plains, barely covered with dwarfish scrubby shrubs and small karroo bushes. On the morrow I removed my encampment about eight or nine miles further down the vley, being oblig- ed, from the broken and uneven nature of the ground, to march in a semicircular course, holding along the outside of the vley. I drew up my wagons on the plain close to the bank of a dry channel, with a fine large pool of running water in my vicinity. This was the finest place that can be described to shoot springboks, and also to select extraordinary specimens on account of their horns, which I was anxious to do. The coun- try, on every side, was covered with immense herds of these antelopes, and they all seemed to have an inclina- tion to come and feed close along the side of the water- course beside which welay. This channel being about 116 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. ten feet deep, and extending throughout the entire length of the plain, I had only to study the wind, and could walk up within easy shot of any herd, and select what ‘ buck I pleased. Here I remained for several days, enjoying brilliant sport, both oryx and springboks giving me each day excellent shots. Here, also, I shot my first ostrich, a fine old cock. It-wasa very long shot; I gave my rifle several feet of elevation, yet nevertheless the ball struck him on the leg, breaking it below the knee, when he fell an@ was unable to rise. The power possessed by an ostrich in his leg can hardly be imagined. The thigh is very muscular, and resembles that of a horse more than that ofa bird. In the act of dying, he lashed out and caught me a severe blow on my leg, which laid me prostrate. CHAPTER VII. Leave Beer Viey—A Bushboy captured and enlisted as a Follower-— Famous Sport with Wildebeest and Quaggas from a Hunting-hole— Water fails, and we march to the Great Orange River—Beautiful Ap- pearance of the River—Stink Vonteyn, a famous sporting Quarter— An Ostrich’s Nest—Bold Mountain Ranges—The Griqua Tribe, their. Manners and Customs—An ancient Mimosa Forest—Residence of a Bushman—Successful Chase of a noble Bull Oryx. Ow the 9th I considered I had sufficiently long en- joyed the sweets of Beer Vley; and accordingly, the wagons being properly packed, I inspanned in the aft- ernoon, and trekked to the south. On the following morning we inspanned at the dawn of day, and retraced our steps to the Rhinoceros Pool. The heat continued A NEW FOLLOWER. 117 most oppressive, the wind still northerly. We- were infested with myriads of common flies, which proved a constant annoyance, filling tent and wagons to such a degree that it was impossible to sit in them. I rode out in the morming of the 11th, accompanied by an after-rider, and shot two springboks, which we bore to eamp secured on our horses behind our saddles by pass- ing the buckles of the girths on each side through the fore and hind legs of the antelopes, having first per- formed an incision between the bone and the sinews with the couteau-de-chasse, according to colonial usage. The Boers had informed me of a small fountain one march in advance, where they recommended me to hunt for a short time, and this place I intended to be my next encampment. On the morrow we inspanned at earli- est dawn, and trekked about ten miles in a northeast- erly course across a barren, extensive plain, steering parallel with the country frequented by the oryx. We drew up our wagons at a place where some Boers had been encamped.during the wiritér months. Here we found a well with nothing but mud in it. I set to work. with the spade and cleaned it out, and presently had good water for myself and people. I dispatched one of my Hottentots on horseback to seek for water in advance for the horses and oxen. He shortly re- turned, and reported another deserted Boer encamp- ment about a mile ahead, at which there was a stronger fountain, but considerably choked with mud. Having breakfasted, I removed my wagons thither, and en- camped. This fountain will be ever memorable in the annals of my African campaign, since on the following day I was there joined by a unique and interesting specimen of a Bushman, who has ever since faithfully followed my fortunes through every peril-and hardship 118 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. by sea and land, and is at the moment that I write brandishing in the Highlands of Scotland an imitation of a Cape wagon-whip which he has constructed, and calling out with stentorian lungs the names of the oxen composing the team which he, at a subsequent period, drove when he alone stood by me, all my followers having forsaken me in the far interior. In the afternoon I saddled up, and started with my two after-riders and a spare horse, with the intention of sleeping in the oryx country, and hunting next day. We rode north through sandy plains and hollows on which large herds of gnoos and springboks were graz- ing. Just as the sun descended we started a fine old bull oryx. We discovered him in a bushy hollow; after a sharp burst Cobus managed to turn him, when, by heading him, I got within range, and finished him with a couple of shots. It was now dark; having off- saddled our horses, we knee-haltered them, and allow- ed them to graze for an hour; after which, having se- cured them to a neighboring bush, we lay down to sleep on the hard ground. My pillow was the neck of the old bull; the jackals sang his coronach. On the 13th.I shot a fine old steinbok, and on nearing my en- campment I discovered two different vleys containing water. Upon reaching my camp I found a funny lit- tle fellow in the shape of the Bushboy before alluded to awaiting my arrival. My Hottentots had detected his black, woolly head protruding from the reeds adjoining the fountain, and had captured him. I presented him with a suit of new clothes and a glass of spirits, and we immediately became and have ever since continued the best of friends. He informed me that, when a child, he was taken by a party of Dutch Boers at a massacre of his countrymen, and from these he had subsequently MARCH TO THE GREAT ORANGE RIVER. 119 absconded on account of their cruel treatment of him. The Boers had named him “ Ruyter,” probably after a certain Dutch admiral, which name he still bears. In the afternoon I rode to one of the vleys, accompa- nied by two of my men, bearing pickaxes and spades and my bedding. We dug a shooting-hole on the usual principle, about three feet deep and eight in diameter, on the lee side of the largest vley. In this hole I used to take my station every night—the jackals and hye- nas growling around me—and await the coming of the dawn to get a sight of the game that came to drink. In this manner I enjoyed excellent sport among the wildebeests and quaggas until the 17th, when, through want of water for my oxen, I was compelled to march for the Great Orange River, which was the nearest water, being distant upward of thirty miles. We in- spanned in the afternoon, and, having performed a march of twelve miles, holding a northeasterly course, I outspanned for a couple of hours to allow my oxen to graze; after which I again inspanned, and trekked about twelve miles further by moonlight, when we halt- ed till the day dawned, making fast the horses and oxen. The country here assumed a less sterile appearance than that which I had occupied during the last five weeks, being ornamented with a few ancient trees, bearing a leaf resembling that of the willow, and call- ed by the Dutch “‘olean wood ;” there were also a few dwarfish thorny trees of a species of mimosa. On the 18th we inspanned at the dawn of day, and after a march of about four hours, through a wild and uninhabited country, we suddenly found ourselves on the bank of the magnificent Orange River.. This queen of African rivers forms a leading feature in the geogra- phy of Suuthernm Africa. Its length, I believe, is some- 120 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. where about a thousand miles. It rises in the east, in the Vitbergen mountain range, a little to the north- ward of the latitude of Port Natal, and, flowing west- ward, is joined by the fair Vaal River about fifty miles below the spot where I had now arrived ; thence it con- tinues its course westward, and falls into the South At- lantic about five hundred miles to the north of the Cape of Good Hope. We made the river at a place called Davinar’s Drift or ford, beside which was a comforta- ble Dutch farm. The owner was a young Boer from the Cape district, and had obtained his present envia- ble position by marrying a fat old widow. Their chief riches consisted of. sheep and goats, of which they pos- sessed enormous flocks, which were in very. fine condi- tion, the country being suitable for pasturing these an- imals. ‘Large herds of trekking springboks were feed- ing in sight of the homestead. I had passed several herds on my morning’s march, and had shot three, which were in good order. The Boers, contrary to my expectation, reported the river fordable, though I had been informed that it was very large. Before venturing to cross we were occu- pied for upward of an hour in raising the goods liable to be damaged by water, by means of a platform con- sisting of green willow boughs, with which we filled the bottom of the wagons, and then replaced the cargo. The descent on our side was extremely steep, and we found it necessary to rheim, viz., to secure, by means of the drag-chains, both hind wheels of each wagon. The drift was extremely rough, and jolted the wagons about sadly. We, however, got safely through, and, having proceeded about half a mile up the opposite bank, encamped. No person who has not contempla- ted a magnificent river under similar circumstances BEAUTIFUL APPEARANCE OF ORANGE RIVER. 121 can form an idea of the pleasure I felt in reaching this oasis of the desert. For many weeks past our lot had been cast in the arid. plains of the parched karroo, where there had often been barely’ sufficient water for our cattle to drink, with cloudless skies and an intense burning sun over our heads, and no tree nor bush of any description whose friendly shade might shelter us from the power of its rays. Here, “o’ the sudden,” a majestic river rolled before our delighted eyes, whose fertile banks were adorned with groves clad in everlast- ing verdure. At the spot where we crossed, the river sentinast me of the appearance exhibited by certain parts of the River Spey in summer during a spate. ‘The breadth of the Orange River, however, is in gen- eral about three hundred yards. The whole of the banks are ornamented with a rich fringe of weeping willows, whose branches dip into the stream, and also of many other trees and bushes, whose blossoms and pleasing foliage yielded the most delicious balmy per- fume. Numerous flocks of the feathered tribe by their beautiful plumage and mélodious notes increased the charm of this lovely scene. The entomologist could likewise have found abundance of interesting objects in his department, the ground and trees swarming with curious, if not gaudy insects. My first move after halt- ing was to enjoy a delightful bathe ; after which, hav-- ing donned my best apparel, I. tera ‘the river on horseback to visit the happy.couple whose farm I have previously described. T found them. civil and communicative, and obtained. from them a supply of vegetables, which to me were most acceptable, having tasted nothing of that sort for many - -weeks. They informed me that about fifteen miles in a northerly direction there was a salt-pan, in Vou. 1—F 122 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. the vicinity of which I might find koodoos and sassay- bies, in addition to the varieties of game which I had already hunted. I walked through their garden, which, besides vegetables in great variety, contained several kinds of fruit-trees, such as peaches, apricots, &ec. ; these throve well, their branches being laden with abundance of fruit. On the forenoon of the 19th, hav- ing twice enjoyed the luxury of bathing, I saddled up, and rode north to an extensive range of rocky hills to seek for koodoos. Crossing an extensive plain which intervened, I came upon an ostrich’s nest containing two eggs; the cock was sitting on the nest, and, im- agining that we would pass without observing him, he allowed us to ride within sixty yards before he started. I found the hills for which I rode of so stony and rocky a character that it was impossible to ride through them. They, however, bore a goodly coating of rank grass of various kinds, and the hollows contained a few dwarf- ish bushes. Leaving my steed in charge of my after- rider, I traversed, with my rifle, several of these rocky ranges, but failed to find any traces of koodoos. It was the sort of country exactly suited for the raebok, to which I have already alluded, and of these antelopes I discovered three small herds. On ascending to the summit of the highest hill in my vicinity, I command- ed a grand panoramic view of the surrounding scenery. An endless succession of bold mountains, of consider- able height, extended as far as I could see in a north- erly and easterly direction. Some of them were tab- ular, but others of conical and pyramidal shapes tow- ered above their fellows, their abrupt forms standing forth in grand relief above the surrounding country. Throughout all these mountain ranges plains of con- siderable extent, more or less undulating, intervened. SALT-PANS. 123 At 1 P.M. on the following day I inspanned and trekked north to the salt-pan, which we reached in the dark. The general character of the country became richer after crossing the Orange River. The plains were adorned with a more luxuriant coating of grass and in greater profusion ; and the small karroo bushes were replaced by others of fairer gr wth, .nd of a dif- ferent variety. Most of these yielded a strong aromat- ic perfume, but more particularly when the ground had been refreshed by a shower of rain, on which occasions the African wilderness diffuses a perfume so exquisite and balmy, that no person that has not experienced its delights can form an idea of it. Our march lay through an extensive undulating country. We passed several troops of hartebeests and springboks, and saw for the first time one sassayby, a large antelope allied to the hartebeest, and of a purple color. Mountain ranges bounded the view on every side, and I could discover by means of my spy-glass that strips of forests of mimosa stretched along their bases. The salt-pan to which we had come was of an oval shape, and about a quarter of a mile in diameter. It was a low basin whose sides ‘sloped gently down, but the middle was a dead level of fine sand. Upon this sand, throughout the greater part of the pan, lay a thick layer of good coarse salt, varying from one to four inches in depth. Heavy rains fill the pan or basin with water, and, the dry season succeedin§, the water disappears, and large deposits of salt are found. These pans or salt-licks are met with in several parts of South Africa. Those which mainly supply the colony with good salt are situated between Utenage and Algoa Bay; they are of considerable extent, and yield a surprising quantity. Ositriches and almost every variety of ante- 124. ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRIUA. lope frequent these pans for the purpose of licking the brack or salt ground, to which they are very partial. The pan which we had reached was formerly visited by Boers and Griquas for the purpose of obtaining salt, but had-of late years been abandoned for others yield- ing it ofa better quality. The country around was consequently undisturbed; and, being utterly uninhab- ited, was lonely, and as still as the grave. On the morning of the 21st I left my wagons encamp- ed beside the salt-pan, and, having proceeded about half a mile in a northerly direction along a seldom-trodden wagon-track, I discovered a fountain of excellent water, but very strongly impregnated with saltpeter. This fountain I afterward learned is termed by the Boers ¢Cruit Vonteyn,” or Powder Fountain, its waters re- sembling the washings of a gun-barrel; but the Gri- quas more elegantly call it ‘Stink Vonteyn.” At breakfast-time I was joined by a party of ruffianly Gri- quas, who were proceeding with a dilapidated-looking wagon, which had no sail, to hunt hartebeests and blue wildebeests in the vicinity of a small fountain to the northeast, where game was reported abundant. They were accompanied by several wild-looking, naked Bush- men attendants, whom they had captured when young, and domesticated. These drove their shooting-horses loose behind the wagon, grazing as they went along. I also observed a couple of milch cows with calves among their toose oxen, a healthy luxury without which that race of people seldom proceed on a journey. The country occupied by the Griquas extends from Rhama, a village on the Orange River, about thirty miles to the east of my present position, to Griquastadt, their cap- ital, a village situated about a hundred miles to the northward of the junction of the Vaal with the Orange “THE GRIQUAS AND BASTARDS. 125 River. They are governed by a chief, whose name is Waterboer. These men are of Hottentot origin, and ‘in general possess the distinguishing features of that race, such as broad, flat noses, high cheek-bones,: small, elephant eyes, thick lips, woolly hair, and other Hot- tentot peculiarities, which, in the present enlightened state of society, it were ‘superfluous to enumerate. They are, however, so mixed up with crosses of other tribes that every ramification of breed between Boers, ‘Bechuanas, Mosambiques, ' Corannas, Namaqua Hot- tentots, Bushmen, &c., may be found located within ‘their territory. All a these intermarry. Some of them have long black hair, while the craniums of oth- ers, such as the Bushmen, are adorned with: detached tufts of sickly-looking crisp wool, and the issue of such unions exhibit locks singularly varied. Another tribe of men in‘ every way similar'to these Griquas inhabit an extensive ‘and fertile country im- mediately to the east of their territory. These men term themselves Bastards. heir chief’s name is Ad- am Kok. The name of ‘their ‘capital is Philipolis, a small village about thirty miles to the north of Coles- berg. Their country is bounded on the south by the Great Orange River, and is about the most desirable district in Southern Africa for farming purposes, there being abundance of fountains throughout its whole ex- tent capable of being led owt: to irrigate the land, with- out which no gardens can be formed, nor wheat grown, in that country. Rich pasture is abundant. ‘Cattle and sheep thrive and breed remarkably well ; goats also an animal valuable to the South African actos, but fos which only cértain ‘districts are’ suitable, are here very prolific. The goat, in many districts is subject toa dis- ease called by the Boers “brunt sickta,” or burnt sick- 126 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. ness, owing to the animals afflicted with it exhibiting the appearance of having been burned. It is incura- ble; and if the animals infected are not speedily killed or put out of the way, the contagion rapidly spreads, and it is not uncommon for a farmer to lose his entire flock with it.. This sad distemper also extends itself to the fere nature. I have shot hartebeests, black wildebeests, blesbucks, and springbucks, with their bodies covered with this disease. I have known sea- sons when the three latter animals were so generally affected by it that the vast plains throughout which they are found were covered with hundreds of skulls and skeletons of those that had died therefrom. One of the chief recommendations of the Bastards’ country is its admirable suitableness for breeding horses.. Large herds of these may be seen throughout their country pasturing high on the mountain sides, or scattered in troops over its grassy plains. The deadly distemper so prevalent along the frontiers of the colony is here of comparatively rare occurrence. In the far interior, however, it is so virulent during five or six months of the year that it is often impossible to save a single horse, and through its ravages I was annually in the habit of losing the greater part of my stud. The chiefs of the Griquas and Bastards are in close alliance with the English government, which protects them from the attacks of the rebel Dutch Boers. These, well aware of the excellent. qualities of the Bastards’ country, are possessed with a strong desire to appropri- ate it. The language spoken by both these tribes is Putch. They have, in general, embraced the Christian religion, and several worthy missionaries have, for sev- eral years past, devoted their lives to the improvement of their temporal and eternal condition. The dress COSTUME OF THE GRIQUAS AND BasTARDS. 127 worn by the men consists of home-made leathern jacket, waistcoat, and trowsers, feldtchoens, or home-made shoes, a Malay handkerchief tied round the head, and on Sundays and other great occasions a shirt and a neckcloth. The females wear a close- fitting, corset reaching to the small of the waist, below which they sport. a. petticoat like the women of other countries. These petticoats are sometimes made of stuffs of Brit- ish manufacture, and at other times of soft leather pre- pared by themselves. Their head-dress consists of two handkerchiefs, one of black silk, the other of a striped. red and green color, usually termed Malay handker- chiefs. They are very fond of beads of every size and color, which they hang in large necklaces round their necks. They have one description of bead peculiar to themselves and to the tribes extending along the banks of the Great Orange River to its junction with the sea. This bead is formed.of the root of a bush found near the mouth of the Orange River, and possesses a sweet and peculiar perfume. Eivery Griqua girl wears ‘at least one of these; and no traveler who has once learned to prize this perfume can inhale it again without its in- advertently recalling to his memory the fine dark eyes and fair forms of the semi-civilized nymphs frequenting the northern bank of the Orange stream. Their houses somewhat resemble a begghive or ant- hill, consisting of boughs of trees stuck into the ground in a circular form, and lashed down across one another overhead so as to form. a frame-work, on which they spread large mats formed of reeds. These mats are also used instead of wagon-sails, and are very effectual in resisting both sun ‘and rain. The diameter of these dome-shape huts varies from ten to fifteen feet. On changing their. quarters, which they are occasionally 128 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. compelled to do on account of pasture, it will easily be understood that they have little difficulty in removing -their house along with them. A strong pack-ox can travel with the whole concern placed on his back ; and on occasions of their migration, I have seen a pack-ox carrying not only its master’s house on its back, but also a complete set of dairy utensils, all manufactured of ‘wood, a couple of skin bags containing thick milk, various cooking utensils, and, surmounting all, the guid- wife, with one or two of her children. They are all possessed of flocks and herds of goats, sheep, and cattle. A description of the houses and manner of living of these people may serve to convey an idea of all the tribes that border on the Vaal and Orange Rivers to the sea. They are, without exception, of an indolent disposition, and averse from hard work of any descrip- tion. Much of their time is spent in hunting, and large parties annually leave their homes and proceed with their wagons, oxen, and horses on hunting expedi- tions into the far interior, absenting themselves for a period of from three to four months. They are a peo- ple remarkable for their,disregard for truth, a weakness which I regret to state I found very prevalent in South- ern Africa. They are also great beggars, generally commencing by soliciting for “‘trexels,” a trexel being a pound of*ea or coffee. Knowing the gallantry of our nation, they affirm this to be a present for a wife or daughter, whom they represent as being poorly. If this is granted, they continue their importunities, suc- cessively fancying your hat, neckcloth, or coat; and I have known them on several occasions coolly request me to exchange my continuations for thajr leathern in- expressibles, which they had probably worn for a couple of summers. . FOREST OF MIMOSAS. 129 When this party of Griquas came up to me, being « anxious to see as much as possible of the natives of those parts which I traversed, I invited them to halt and drink coffee with me, an invitation which a Griqua was never yet known to decline. They informed me that; in the mountain tanges to the northeast, koodoo were to be met with, and they invited me to accompany them on their chasse. When breakfast was finished they sent their wagon in advance, ‘with instructions to wait for their arrival at the fountain, where they in- tended to pitch their camp; and, having saddled up, we all set forward and rode east to hunt koodoos and harte- beests, or any other game we thight fallin with. After riding three or four miles, on approaching the base of the hills we entered an ancient forest of mimosas, every tree being a study for an artist. There was also a con- siderable under-cover of various sweet-smelling shrubs and bushes... Here steinbok and duyker were abundant. This venerable forest extended all around the bases of various ranges of rocky hills, which stretehed in differ- ent directions through: these plains. Close in, at the foot of one of the hills, we discovered a Bushman resi- derice, consisting of three small huts, each about four feet high, and about eight in diameter. They were formed of boughs of trees, thatched over with: rank grass drawn up by the roots. ‘The natives, as usual, had fled on our approach,‘and no living creature was to be seen. I entered each of the huts, and found lots of well “‘ braid” (or dressed) skins ofall the wild beasts of these parts. ‘All their dishes were made either of ostrich eggs or of the shells of land tortoises, and these were ranged round the floor on one side of the: hut, ‘Most of the ostrich egg-shells contained water. ‘We crossed ‘the hills by’a'stony neck; and having F2 x * 1380 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH ‘AFRICA. proceeded some distance through several well-wooded glades and hollows in the table-land of the hills, we suddenly looked forth upon a noble prospect. A wide grassy plain, covered with picturesque mimosas and detached clumps of ever-green bushes, stretched away from the bases of the hills on which we stood. Beyond, the landscape was shut in by the bold and abrupt forms of rugged mountain ranges, which were colored with a softened blue tint. Having descended into this fine picturesque plain, we held north, riding parallel with the hilly chain. Presently, my comrades adopting course which did not strike me as the most likely to fall in with game, I chose a line of march for myself, and, following along under the mountain chain, I soon lost sight of them, and saw them no more that day. On this occasion I had taken the field without any after- rider. Having ridden about a mile further, I started a doe koodoo, the first I had seen, and shortly after I started another, with a young one, which I determined to secure, there being no flesh in our camp. Having pursued it a shoré distance, I came suddenly upon a troop of koodoos, consisting of three bucks and several does. ‘T'wo of the bucks were old fellows, and carried magnificent, wide-set, long, spiral horns. To these I instantly directed my attention, when they at once made, as koodoos invariably do, for the adjacent rocky hills. Their pace was a succession of long bounds over the thorny bushes, which sadly distressed my poor steed. I nevertheless gained on them, and would have as- suredly secured one, had they not reached a stony bar- rier of sharp, hard rocks, over which they disappeared, and where my horse could not follow. I was much struck with the noble appearance of these two buck koodoos, and felt very chagrined in having been unfor- ORYXES AND ZEBRAS. 131 tunate with them. Having lost the koodoos, I turned my face to the south, and rode along the skirts of the forest, in hope of falling in with my comrades. [had ridden about a milé, when I suddenly perceived a gallant herd of nine old oryxes cantering toward me, all of them carrying b horns of immense length and beau- ty; surpassing any thing I had hitherto seen. They were preceded by four beautifully-striped zebras, the first I had met with, and followed by two brilliant red hartebeests. In half a minute I was flying along within sixty yards of the troop of oryxes, carefully studying the horns of each, and at a loss to decide which was the finest, they were all so very handsome. As I swept along I deplored my folly ‘in having taken the field without my after-riders; I nevertheless entertained hopes of success, as these antelopes had evidently. been followed by the Griquas from whom I parted. They led me a long and severe ghase_ along the skirts of the hill, the wind fortunately blowing right across them. After riding hard for several miles I felt my | horse very much distressed, and was on the point of giving up the pursuit, when L observed one old bull make a momentary halt under a mimosa, evidently very much blown. This gave me fresh hope; I resolved to follow him as long as my horse could go, and once more I gave chase with renewed speed. I was soon riding opposite to him, within sixty yards, with the hill on the other side, and by a desperate effort I managed to cut him off from his comrades, and turn his head down the wind. His fate was now sealed, and I at once felt that he was mine. From this moment his pace decreased, and, after an- other half mile of sharp galloping rane hill, in which I gained upon him at every stride, I was riding within fifteen yards of his handsome round stern. His ‘tongue 132 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA, was now hanging from his mouth, and long streaks of foam streamed back on his sides. Suddenly, on round- ing a thorny bush, he pulled up in his career, and, facing about, stood at bay. I sprang, breathless and worn out, from my panting steed, and with a shaking hand sent a bullet through his shoulder, when he fell and breathed his last. This noble oryx carried the finest horns I had met with, and I had, moreover, the satisfaction of knowing that he was the finest in the herd. Having off-saddled and knee-haltered my horse, I commenced cutting off the head of the oryx, which I accomplished with some trouble, the skin at the neck being an inch in thick- ness. I then broke thorny branches from a neighbor- ing mimosa, which I heaped over the carcass, to pro- tect it from the vultures. This being accomplished, 1 returned to camp, carrying the head on the pommel of the saddle before me, ending rifle over my shoulder. On occasions like this, I have often felt that I should have been the better for a third hand for the manage- ment of my steed. At an early hour on the following morning I left my wagons, accompanied by two after- riders, to look for koodoos, and secure the skin of the oryx of the preceding day. Contrary to my expecta- tions, the. hyeenas had not discovered him, The flesh, however, owing to the heat of the weather, was un- serviceable. I rode with my boys deployed into line along the likely part of the old mimosa forest, hoping to fall in with koodoos. Here I shot two fine old stein- boks, with very good horns, and these-I carefully pre- served. for my collection. By firing I lost a chance of koodoos, as I presently discovered fresh spoor of a troop of these antelopes, which my shots had disturbed. Returning toward my wagons, I rode through a gorge WILD DOGS AND KOODOOS. 133 in the mountains where I had started a pack of about thirty wild dogs in the morning, Observing a number of vultures sitting on the rocks about the place from which the dogs had started, I at once knew that they had killed some animal; and on riding up I discovered the skeleton of an old doe koodoo, which they had run into andconsumed. They had not cracked the marrow- bones, which the hyenas would have done if left there till after sunset. These, therefore, my Hottentots hast- ily took possession of, the marrow of the thigh-bones of the koodoo beitlt by them esteemed a great delicacy. Springing from their horses, they triumphantly seized the skeleton; and, each selecting for himself a couple of stones, they sat down on the ground, cracked the marrow-bones, and greedily devoured their raw con- tents. On reaching the wagons we found an extreme- ly ancient and shriveled-looking Bushman, who chat- tered just like a monkey. He signed to me that I had visited his hut on the preceding day, but that he fear- ed the Griquas who accompanied me. He also inti- mated that he feared the Boers; but he knew, from the appearance of my wagons, that they belonged to an Englishman. He also signified to me that; when the moon should rise, blue wildebeests would come and dririk at “Stink Vonteyn.” This fact I had already ascer- tained from personal observation, having seen their spoor by the water. In the evening, having taken several cups of strong coffee to keep me awake, I walked to the fountain with four of my followers, bearing spades and pickax, and my bedding, to watch for wild animals. Having constructed’ a ‘shooting-hole, my men retired, and I took up my position for the night, which’ was mild and lovely, with good moonlight. After watch- ing several hours I fell asleep. About midnight. my ia 1384 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. light sleep was disturbed by the tramp of approaching wild animals. I peeped from my hole, and saw a herd of about twenty shaggy blue wildebeests, or brindled gnoos, cautiously advancing to the water. They were preceded by a patriarchal old bull, the finest in the herd. I fired at him, and heard the ball tell upon his ghoulder, upon which he and the whole troop galloped off in a northerly direction, enveloped in a cloud of red dust. Being thirsty, I then walked up to the eye of the fountain, and, having imbibed a draught of its sul- phurous water, in a very few minutespl was once more _asleep. . On the 23d I stood up in my hole at dawn of day, and, having donned my old gray kilt and Badenoch brogues, took up the spoor of the herd of brindled gnoos. After I had proceeded a short distance I per- ceived the head of the old bull looking at me over a small rise on the bushy plain. The head disappeared, and I heard a loud noise of tramping, as of an animal endeavoring to gallop upon three legs. On gaining this rise | again saw the handsome head, with its strangely- hooked, fair-set horns, gazing at me from the long grass some hundred yards in advance. He had Jain down. I held as though I intended to go past him; but before I neared him he sprang to his feet, and endeavored to make off from me. Poor old bull! I at once perceiv- ed that it was all over with him. He was very faint from loss of blood, and one fore leg was broken in the shoulder. He made a tottering run of about a hund- red yards, and again lay down, never more to rise, I walked up to within eighty yards of him, and sent a bullet through his heart. Receiving the ball, he rolled over on his side, and expired without a groan. I then made for my wagons, and dispatched men with a span MARCH TO VAAL RIVER. 135 or team of oxen to slip the wildebeest to camp. He afforded us a welcome supply of excellent-flesh, as he was in fine condition. I breakfasted on an ostrich egg, Kleinboy having found a nest the preceding day. He had, unfortunately, taken only eight of the eggs out of the nest, foolishly leaving the other twelve, which on his return he found smashed by the old birds, accord- ing to their usual custom. CHAPTER VII. We leave Stink Vonteyn and reach the Vaal River—Wait-a-bit Thorns —Chase and kill a Buck Koodoo, and bivouac on the Ground—Co- bus and Jacob abscond——-Roan Antelope—We recross the Vaal River —Griqua Encampment—Stink Vonteyn again—A Flight of Locusts— A Salt-pan—Salubrious Climate—Boers attempt to carry off Ruyter —4 Cameel-dorn Forest—A Brindled Gnoo bayed by Wild Dogs— Habits of the latter. On the evening of the 24th we inspanned, and, leav- ‘ing “ Stink Vonteyn,” marched upon the Vaal River, distant about twenty-five miles. Our road lay through soft sand, rendering the work very severe for the oxen. About 2 A.M. on the following morning we reached the fair Vaal River by fine moonlight. Having sent mount- ed men through the stream to ascertain its depth, and finding a passage practicable, I resolved at once to cross it—a rule generally adopted by all experienced in the -country, among whom a general maxim prevails never to defer the passage of a river if at all fordable when they reach it. Endless are the stories related by South African travelers, who, by failing to adopt this plan, have been compelled to remain for weeks, and even 136 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. months, on the banks of its various rivers. The cur- rent here being very powerful, I mounted the leaders of my teams, and in a few minutes my long double line of oxen was stoutly stemming the rapid stream, which reached half way up their sides. We got both the wagons across in safety. The water had just reached the bottom of my cargoes, but did not damage any thing. The bank on the further side was extremely steep and stony, and required every ox to exert himself to the utmost. The river here is very beautiful; broad and rapid streams are succeeded by long, deep, and tranquil pools, termed by the natives “zekoe ychots,” signifying sea-cow or hippopotamus’ holes, these vast and wondrous amphibious animals having, not many years since, been plentiful along the entire length of the Vaal River. The hippopotamus, however, like the elephant, is of a very shy and secluded disposition, and rapidly disappears before the approach of civilization. I drew up my wagons on a commanding open position on the northern bank of the stream. The margin of the Vaal, like the Orange River, is richly: clad with dense groves of various evergreen trees, among which drooping willows predominate, whose long waving fringes dip gracefully into the limpid waters as they glide along in their seaward course. All along the banks of both these rivers huge trunks of trees are strewn, having been borne thither by the mighty floods to which they are annually subject. A short distance above my position was a beautiful island, adorned with trees of the richest verdure. About 3 P.M. I rode northeast to look for roan an- telopes, which, next to the eland, are the largest in the world, and, being incapable of great speed, may at times be ridden into with a good horse. I was accom- WAIT-A-BIT ‘THORNS—KOODOOS, 187 panied by Cobus and Jacob. We found the country covered with bushes, of which the majority were of a most impracticable description, reminding me of & kill- devil, an implement used in angling, they being cover- ed with thorns on the fish-hook principle. This variety of mimosa is waggishly termed by the Boers “ vyacht um bige,” or wait-a-bit thorns, as they continually so- licit the ‘passing traveler not to be in a hurry; if he disregards which request, the probability is that he leaves a part of his shirt or trowsers in their possession. Here and there were hills covered with sharp adamant- ‘ine rocks, throughout which, however, there was abund- ance of excellent grass and ‘fine green bushes. In short, it was just the country to suit the taste of the rock-loving koodoos. Having proceeded some miles, we discovered fresh spoor of a troop of them at the foot of one of the ranges of rocky hills. We then crossed the ridge, still finding spoor, and the country becoming more and more likely. _ Suddenly, on raising our eyes, we saw standing on the hill-side, within three hundred yards of us, five buck koodoos, four of which were tearing old fellows carry- ing extremely fine horns; and majestic as they were, the elevated position which they occupied imparted to them a still more striking appearance. We galloped toward them, on which they bounded higher up the rocky hill, and stood for a few seconds looking’ at us. ' Thad seen many sights thrilling to a sportsman, but few to surpass what I then beheld.. I think an old buck koodoo, when seen standing broadside on, is de- cidedly one of the grandest-looking antelopes in the world. They now broke into two lots, the two finest bucks holding to the teft, and to these we gave chase. They led us over the most tertific ground for horses 138 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. that can be imagined. . It consisted of a mass of large, sharp adamantine pieces. of rock; even the rock-fre- quenting koodoos themselves made bad weather of it. Cobus, on this occasion, rode in a manner which as- tonished me. He was mounted on “The Cow,” which steed, having in its youth led an unrestrained life, as most Cape horses do, in the rugged mountains of the Hantam, bounded along the hill-side in a style worthy of a klipspringer. A: flat of considerable extent, cov- ered with tall bushes, intervened between us and a long range of high table-land to the northward, along the base of which, for an extent of many miles, stretched a dense forest of wait-a-bit thorns and mimosas. "Mis forest. was the head-quarters of the koodoos, and for it they now held, breaking away across the above-men- tioned flat. That forest, however, the finest koodoo was destined never to reach. As soon as we got clear of the rocky ground, our horses gained upon them at every stride; and Cobus, who was invariably far be- foré me in every chase, was soon alongside of the finest Here, in the dense bushes, we lost sight of his comrade. Cobus very soon prevailed on the koodoo to alter his tack, and strike off at a tangent from his former course, - when, by taking a short cut like a greyhound running cunning, I got within range, and with a single ball I rolled him over in the dust. I felt more pleasure in obtaining this fine specimen of a buck koodoo than any thing I had yet shot in Africa. He was a first-rate old buck, and carried a pair of ponderous, long, wide- set spiral horns. Owing to the nature of the ‘ground which they fre- quent, it is a very difficult matter to ride them down, and they are more usually obtained by stalking or stealing stealthily upon them. "When, however, the A PRIMITIVE COUCH. 139 hunter discovers a heavy old -buck koodoo on level ground, there is no great difficulty to ride into him, his speed and endurance being very inferior to that of the oryx. I could have stood contemplating him for hours, but darkness was fast setting in; so, having off- saddled and knee-haltered our horses, we carefully re- moved the head and commenced skinning him. The skin of the koodoo, though thin, is extremely tough, and is much prized by the colonists for “ foreslocks,” or lashes for ox-wagon whips. The koodoo-skin was my mattress, my saddle was my pillow; and supper- less I lay down to rest, without any covering save an old*shirt and a pair of leather crackers. The excite- ment of the thrilling sport which I had enjoyed pre- vented my sleeping until a late hour; and when at length I closed my eyes, I dreamed: that we were sur- rounded by a troop of lions, and, awaking with a loud cry, startled my men and horses. On the 26th we arose at earliest dawn, and having packed the trophies of the koodoo and a part of his flesh upon my spare horse, I dispatched Jacob with him to camp, while Cobus and I held northeast to seek for roan antelope. I sought that day and the two follow- ing for these antelopés, hut saw no traces of them. On the morning of the 30th I inspanned, and trekked some miles further up the northern bank of the Vaal, and encamped opposite where. the Riet or Reed River joins it. The stream here is extremely beautiful, be- ing about a hundred and fifty yards in breadth, with sloping banks richly adorned with shady evergreen groves, and fringed with lofty reeds—a never-failing prognosticator of a sleepless night, a virulent species of musquito being always abundant where reeds are met with. Several large bustards were stalking on a 140 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. small bushy flat as We drew up the wagons. I went ‘after these, and made a fine off-hand shot at an old cock at a hundred and fifty yards. Here I lost Cobus and Jacob, my two Hottentot after-riders. Returning from the bustards to my wagons, where I expeéted to find my breakfast waiting me, I discovered these two worthies, whose duty it was to be preparing it, quietly reclining under the shade of a mimosa, and enjoying the soothing influence of their short clay pipes. Being now beyond the pale of magisterial law, I deemed that a little wholesome correction might prove beneficial, which I accordingly administered. This so disgusted these high-minded youths, that after breakfast they embraced the opportunity of my bathing to abscond from my service. I imagined that they had sneaked into the bushes, and would soon réturn. I, however, saw no more of them until séveral months after, when I met them at Colesberg, which place they had reach- ‘ed, assisted by the Bastards, through whose country they had passed. Cobus, though a first-rate after-. rider, was a great scamp and mischief-maker; and I learned from my remaining people that it was by his persuasion Jacob had left me. In the forenoon, the sun being extremely powerful, I built for myself a bower under an old willow beside the river. In this bower I made my bed, and might have had a sound sleep by way of a change, had not the musquitoes and midges assaulted me throughout the whole night, so that I hardly closed my eyes. The 31st was a charming cool day, the sky beautifully over- cast. Having enjoyed a good swim in the waters of the Vaal, I breakfasted, after which I saddled up, and rode north to seek for roan antelope. I was accompa- nied by’ Carollus, the native of Mozambique, who was TERRUMC STORM. 141 much too heavy to aot as after-fider, and by the little Bushboy named Ruyter, who had, joined me on the plains of the karroo. This Bushboy, although he had learned to ride among the Boers, had an indifferent seat on horseback, and would never push his horse to over- ‘take any antelope if the ground were at all rough. a Having explored the country to a gonsiderable dis-. tance, in the course.of which we fell in with four sas- sabies and a troop of hartebeests, I resolved to make for home, as the darkening sky and distant thunder to the southward threatened a heavy storm. I had not long, however, determined on returning, when the wind, which had been out of the north, suddenly veered round, and. blew hard from the south. In less than half an hour the rain descended in torrents, the wind blew ex- tremely cold, and the rain beat right in my face; the peals of thunder were most appalling, the most fear- ful, I think, I had ever heard, the forked lightning dancing above and around me with such vividness as to pain my eyes: I thought every moment would be my last. Ishifted my saddle from ‘“ Sunday” to “' The 'Cow,” and we pricked along at a smart pace. We were entering a thicket of thorny bushes, when a very large gray-looking antelope stood. up under one of them. I could not see his head; but I at once knew that it was the long-sought-for roan antelope, or bastard gems- bok. Carollus quickly handed me my little Moore ri- fle, secure from the pelting storm in one of Mr, Hugh Snowie’s patent water-proof covers. The noble buck now bounded forth, a superb old male, carrying a pair of grand cimeter-shaped horns. He stood nearly five feet high at the shoulder. “The Cow” knew well what he had to do, and set off after him with right good will over a most impracticable country. It was a succes 142 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. sion of masses of adamantine rock and stone, and dense bushes with thorns on the boat-hook principle. Ina few minutes my legs below the knee were a mass of blood, and my shirt, my only covering, was flying in stream- ers from my waist. The old buck at first got a little ahead, but presently, the ground improving, I gained upon him, and after a sharp burst of about two miles we commenced ascending a slight acclivity, when he suddenly faced about and stood at bay, eyeing me with glowing eyes and a look of defiance. This was to me a joyful moment. The buck I had for many years heard of and longed to meet now stood at bay within forty yards of me. I dismounted, and, drawing my ri- fle from its holster, sent a bullet through his shoulder, upon which he cantered a short distance and lay down beside a bush. On my approach he endeavored to charge, but his strength failed him. I then gave him a second shot in the neck, just where I always cut off the head. On receiving it he rolled over, and, stretch- ing his limbs, closed his eyes upon the storm, which all this time raged with increasing severity. I felt extremely cold. I had lost my shirt in the chase, and all that was left me was my shoes and leather knee- breeches. I nevertheless took some time to inspect the beautiful and rare antelope which I had been fortunate enough to capture. He proved to be a first-rate spec- imen: his horns were extremely rough and finely knot- . ted.. I now proceeded to cut off his head and “ gral-” loched” him, all of which I accomplished before my fol- lowers came up. They stumbled on me by chance, having lost sight of me in the denseness of the storm. Having shifted my saddle from “The Cow” to “Coles- berg,” I ordered them to follow, and I rode hard for camp, which was distant many miles. At sunset the A TROOP OF YOUNG OSTRICHES. 148 storm ceased, and my boys arrived with the head. The following day was the 1st of February. In the morn- ing I dispatched two men to bring home the skin of the roan antelope and a supply of the venison, which was in high condition. Strange to say, they found the buck all safe, having escaped the attacks both of hyenas and vultures. My meal-bag was reported almost empty ; and this being a dangerous country for the horse-sickness, @ distemper which rages during February, March, and April, I resolved to recross the Vaal River, and bend my course for the land of blesboks, a large and beau- tiful violet-colored antelope, which is found, together ‘ with black wildebeests and springboks, in countless thousands on the vast green plains of short sour grass situated about a hundred and fifty miles to the east- ward of my then position.” My purpose was to amuse myself hunting in these parts until the beginning of . April, when the most dangerous period of the horse-sick- ness would be past, and after that to revisit Colesberg, where I intended to store the specimens of natural his- tory which I had already accumulated, and, having re- fitted and laid in a store of supplies, to start for the re- mote districts of the far interior in quest of elephant, rhinoceros, giraffe, buffalo, eland, and other varieties of large and interesting game to be found in those seclud- ed regions. Before removing from my present en- * campment I had another hard day among the sharp rocks and wait-a-bit thorns to the northward of the Vaal, when I fell in with a troop of about twelve young ostriches, which were not much larger than Guinea- fowls. I was amused to see the mother endeavor to lead us away exactly like a wild duck, spreading out. and drooping her wings, and throwing herself down on Missing Page Missing Page 146 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. flannel, which I had previously done for years: I can, therefore, confidently recommend the country to those that suffer from that most grievous affliction. Colds, coughs, and sore throats are of rare occurrence; and scientific persons, in whose opinions I can place the ut- most relianee, have informed me that the frontier dis- tricts of the colony, and still more the remoter dis- tricts to the northward, are the finest in the world for persons laboring under any pulmonary complaint. At times I felt very lonely when I returned to camp for want of some old companion to welcome me, and dis- cuss with me, in the evenings, over my gipsy fire, the adventures and incidents of the day: in general, how- ever, when the sport was good, I enjoyed excellent spirits. On reaching my wagons I breakfasted, after which we inspanned and trekked east along a very rarely trodden old wagon-track, making for a small fountain situated.on the borders of a large pan, which lay in a broad htllow in the center of an extensive open tract of undulating country. Here the entire country was of a soft, sandy character, and utterly uninhabited ; the plains were covered with long, rough heath and other low scrubby bushes, intermingled with much sweet grass. Ranges of hills of goodly height and con- siderable extent intersected the plains, and bounded the view at various distances on every side. Ancient for- ests of picturesque and venerable mimosas, interspersed with high, gray-leaved bushes, detached and in groups, stretched along the bases of these mountain-ranges, their breadth extending about a mile into the surround- ing extensive campaign country. We reached the small fountain in the dark, our road leading through the salt- pan, where we halted for an hour for the purpose of meyers ATTEMPT TO CARRY OFF RUYTER. 147 collecting salt. "We had little difficulty in filling two large sacks with it. The next day, as we crossed a vast plain, a flight of locusts passed over our heads during upward of half an hour, flying so thick as to darken the sun ; they reached in dense clouds as far as we could see, and maintained an elevation of from six to three or four hundred feet above the level of the plain. Woe to the vegetation of the country on which they alight! In the afternoon two mounted Boers were observed leading a spare horse and following on our track. While they were yet afar off, Ruyter, the little Bushboy, recognized them as old acquaintances, and pronounced one of them to be the brother of the master from whom he had absconded. I at once guessed the object of their visit, and was right in my conjecture. By some clew they had ascertained that the boy was in my possession, and were now fol- lowing me in the hope of recovering him. According- ly, when they rode up and requested me to halt the wagons for a conference, I received them very gruffly, and replied that, the water béing distant, I had no time for conferences until J should arrive there. Having re- peated their request, and finding that I paid them no regard, they took up a position in the rear, and followed my wagons to the halting-place. Here they began to pester me with a long yarn concerning their claims to the Bushboy, when I stopped their pratings by ordering them to drop the subject, promising them a hearing in the morning; and having directed my people to place refreshments before the Boers, I wished them good- night, and retired. : On the following morning they renewed their impor- tunities, stating many things which I knew to be false; upon which I informed them that the nation to which 148 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. I belonged was averse to slavery, and that I could not think of acceding to their demand. They then saddled up, and departed as wise as they had come, telling me ‘that the matter should not rest there. The little Bush- man seemed highly amused with the whole proceeding; and as the Boers mounted their steeds and rode away, leading the spare horse, he shrieked with delight, ex- claiming in Low Dutch, ‘“ Yah, yilla forfluxta Boera, yilla had de chadachta me te chra, mar ik heb noo a ghroote baas, dat sall_yilla neuk ;” signifying “ Yes, you worthless Boers, you dias to get hold of me; but Ihave now a great master, who will serve you out.” The Boers having departed, and my oxen and horses having effaced all original traces around the fountain, T described a circle a little distance from it to ascertain if it was much frequented. This is the manner in which spoor should at all times be sought for. I found a tolerable abundance of the spoor of various wild ani- mals, and I therefore resolved to remain here some days for the purpose of hunting.. I removed my wagons to an adjacent hollow, where I drew them up entirely con- cealed from view, and then constructed a shooting-hole beside the fountain, where for several mornings, at early dawn, I shot hartebeests as they came to drink. On the morning of the 12th I rode northeast with at- tendants, and after proceeding several miles through an open country we entered a beautiful forest of cameel- dorn trees, and rode along beneath a range of steep rocky hills. The country gave me the idea of extreme antiquity, where the hand of man had wrought no change since the Creation. In a finely-wooded broad valley or opening among the hills, we fell in with a magnificent herd of about sixty blue wildebeests. As they cantered across the grassy sward, tossing their A GNOO BAYED BY WILD DOGS. 149 fierce-looking, ponderous heads, their shaggy manes and long, black, bushy tails streaming in the breeze, they presented an appearance at once striking and im- posing ; and to a stranger they conveyed rather the idea of buffaloes than any thing belonging to the antelope tribe, te which, indeed, wildebeests, both black and white, are but remotely allied, notwithstanding the classification of naturalists. About midnight on the 16th, weary with tossing on my restless couch, I arose, and taking my two-grooved rifle, a pillow, and a ‘blanket, I held for my shooting- hole beside the fountain. The remainder of the night was very cool, with a southerly breeze. At dawn I looked from my hole, and, seeing no game approaching, I rolled my blanket tight around me and tried to sleep. In this manner I had lain for about half an hour, when I was suddenly startled by a large, heavy animal gal- loping past within six feet of me. I at once knew that it must be either some beast which had been coming to drink and had got my wind, or one hunted, which, ac- cording to the custom of deer and the larger antelopes, had rushed for refuge to the water in its distress. In the latter conjecture I was right; for, on cautiously peeping through the stones which surrounded my hole, I had the pleasure to behold a fine bull brindled gnoo dash into the waters of the fountain within forty yards of me, and stand at bay, followed by four tearing, fierce- looking wild dogs. All the four had their heads and shoulders covered with blood, and looked savage in the extreme. They seemed quite confident of success, and came leisurely up to the bull, passing within a few yards of me, their eyes glistening with ferocious glee. My anxiety to possess this fine old bull, and also a specimen of the wild dog, prevented my waiting to see 150 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. more of the fun. I deliberated for a few seconds whether I would shoot the bull first or one of the hounds, and ended by shooting the gnoo and the largest hound right and left. The bull, on receiving the ball, bounded out of the fountain; but, suddenly wheeling about, he re- entered it, and, staggering violently for a moment, sub- sided in its waters. The hound got the bullet through his heart, and, springing forward from his comrades, instantly measured his length upon the gravel. I then quickly reloaded my rifle, lying on my side; a proceed- ing which, I may inform those who have not yet tried it, is rather difficult to accomplish. While I was thus occupied the three remaining hounds reluctantly with- drew, and described a semicircle to leeward of me for the purpose of obtaining my wind and more correctly ascertaining the cause of their discomfiture. Having loaded, I reopened my fire, and wounded another, when they all made off. I could not help feeling very reluctant to fire at the jolly hounds. The whole affair reminded me so very forcibly of many gallant courses I had enjoyed in the Scottish deer-forests with my own noble deer-hounds, that I could not divest myself of the idea that those now before me deserved a better recompense for the masterly manner in which they were pursuing their desperate game. One hound, in particular, bore a strong expression of dear old Factor in his face, a trusty stag-hound bred by myself, whose deeds, though not re- nowned in verse like Ossian’s Oscar and Luath, were perhaps little inferior either in speed or prowess to those famed in ancient song.* * The wild dogs, or “ wilde honden,” as they are termed by the Dutch Boers, are still abundant in the precincts of the Cape colony, and are met with in great numbers throughout the interior. These animals HABITS OF THE WILD DOG. 151 . Having summoned my men, and with consiberable difficulty dragged the ponderous carcass of the old bull invariably hunt together in large organized packs; varying in number from ten to sixty, aad ‘by their extraordinary powers of endurance, and mode of mutual assistance, they are enabled to run into the swiftest, or overcome the largest and most powerful antelope. I have never heard of their attacking the buffalo, and I believe that the animal pursued in the present instance is the largest to which they give battle. Their pace is a long, never-tiring gallop, and in the chase they relieve one another, the leading hounds falling to the rear when fatigued, when others, who have been husbanding their strength, come up and relieve them. Having succeeded in bringing their quarry to bay, they all sur- round him, and he is immediately. dragged to the ground, and in a few minutes torn to pieces and consumed. They are ofa bold and daring dis- position, and do not entertain much fear of man, evincing less concern on his approach than any other carnivorous animal with which I am ac- quainted. On disturbing a pack,-they trot leisurely along before the intruder, repeatedly halting and looking back at him. The females bring forth their young in large holes, in desolate open plains. These burrows are connected with one another under ground. When a troop of wild dogs frequenting these holes observe a man approaching, they do not, as might be supposed, take shelter in the holes, but, rather trusting to their speed, they rush forth, even though the intruder should be close upon them, and. retreat across the plain, the young ones, unless very weak, accompanying them. The devastation occasioned by them among the flocks of the pastoral Dutch Boers is inconceivable. It con- stantly happens, that when the careless shepherds leave their charge in quest of honey or other amusement, a pack of these marauders comes across the defenseless flock. A sanguinary massacre in such cases in variably ensues, and incredible numbers of sheep are killed and wound- ed. The voracious pack, not content with killing as many as they can eat, follow resolutely on, tearing and mangling all that come within their reach. Their voice consists of three different kinds of cry, each being used on special occasions. One of these cries is a sharp, angry bark, usually uttered when they suddenly behold an object which they can not make out. Another resembles a.number of monkeys chattering together, or men conversing while their teeth are chattering violently from cold. This cry is emitted at night when large numbers of them are together, and they are excited by any particular occurrence, such as being barked at by domestic dogs. The third cry, and the one most commonly uttered by them, is a sort of rallying note to bring the vari- ous members of the pack together when they have been scattered in following several individuals of a troop of antelopes.’ It is a peculiarly soft, melodious cry, yet, nevertheless, it may be distinguished at a great 152 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. out of the water, we found that he had been cruelly lacerated by the hounds. It appeared to me that they had endeavored to hamstring him. His hind legs, haunches, and belly were dreadfully torn; he had lost half his tail, and was otherwise mutilated. Poor old bull! I could not help commiserating his fate. It is melancholy to reflect that, in accordance with the laws of nature, such scenes of pain must ever be occurring ; one species, whether inhabiting earth, air, or ocean, being produced to become the prey of another. At night I watched the water, with fairish moonlight, and shot a large spotted hyena. I continued here hunting hartebeests until the 21st, when I inspanned at an early hour, and trekked due east till sundown, when I halted near a small fountain of fine water, having performed a march of about twen- ty-five miles. Our road lay’ through a wild, uninhab- ited country, producing sweet grass in abundance, but destitute of water. On the morning of the 22d, hav- ing breakfasted, I rode southwest, with after-riders, and found the game abundant, but wild and shy, hav- ing been recently hunted by Boers. distance. It very much resembles the second note uttered by the cuckoo which visits our islands during the summer months, and, when heard in a calm morning echoing through the distant woodlands, it has a very pleasing effect. They treat a domestic dogs, however large and fierce, with the utmost scorn, waiting to receive their attack, and then, clannishly assisting one another, they generally rend them in pieces. The domestic dogs most cordially reciprocate their animosity, and abhor their very voices, at what distance soever heard, even more than that of the lion, starting to their feet, and angrily barking for hours. This interesting though destructive animal seems to form the connect- ing link between the wolf and the hyena. THE RIET RIVER. 153 CHAPTER IX. The Riet River—Nomade Boer Encampments—Surly Regeption at a Boer’s Farm—Lions slain by the Boers—Cowardice of the Boers in Lion Hunting—Rumors of War between the Boers and Griquas— The Mirage of the Plains—Habits of the Blesbok—A knowing old Hog—A Snake under my Pillow—A Troop of Wild Dogs come upon me at Night in my Shooting-hole—The Roar of Lions—Curious Facts concerning them. ‘We inspanned before the dawn of day on the 23d of February, and after steering east and by north for a distance of about twelve miles, we found ourselves on the southern bank of the Riet River, where we out- spanned. Along the banks, both above and below me, several families of the nomade Boers were encamped with their tents and wagons. Their overgrown flocks and herds were grazing on the plains and: grassy hill sides around. Five of these Boers presently came up to my wagons, and drank coffee with me. They seem- ed much amused with the details of my sporting ad- ventures, which I was now able to give them in broken Dutch, in which language, from lately hearing no other spoken, I was daily becoming more proficient. On learning that I had not as yet enjoyed any blesbok shooting, they said they were certain I should be de- lighted with the sport. The borders of the country in- habited by the blesboks they stated to be about four days distant in a northeasterly direction, and that, on reaching it, I should fall in with those antelopes in countless herds, along with black wildebeest, spring- bok, and other game. The Boers supplied me liberally G2 154 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. with milk. In the height of the day we all bathed in the Riet River, and in the afternoon I continued my journey eastward. The breadth of the Riet River here is about thirty yards. It rises about one hundred miles to the eastward, and, flowing westerly, joins the Vaal River opposite Campbellsdorp. On the third'day after making the Riet River we crossed below a very picturesque waterfall, and resumed our march along its northern bank. The day was cool and pleasant, the sky overcast; the hot days of sum- mer were now past, and the weather was most enjoy- able. Continuing my march in the afternoon, I left the Riet River on my right, and held on through an open, sandy country richly covered with abundance of sweet grass, and intersected by mountain ranges of very considerable extent. At sunset I encamped be- side a Boer’s farm, who received me hospitably, and asked me to dine with him. During dinner, according to the custom of the Boers, he pestered me with a thou- sand questions, such as, What was my nation? Where was I from? Where was I bound for? Why I trav- eled about alone in such a manner? Where was my farm? Were my father and mother living? How many brothers and sisters I had? Was I married? And had I never been married in the whole course of my life? On my replying in the negative to this last question, the Boer seemed petrified with astonishment, and the family gazed at one another in utter amaze- ment. On the farm was a fine specimen of the Afri- can wild boar, which was perfectly tame, and took veg- etables from the hands of the children. On the follow- ing day I performed two long marches, and again halt- ed on the farm of a Boer, whose name was Potcheter. I found this man particularly bitter against the gov- A SURLY RECEPTION. 155- ernment. On my going up to him to inquire where I should outspan, he was very surly, and would scarcely deign to speak to me. Of this, however, I took no no- tice, but took the liberty of informing him that when I had outspanned I should come up to the house and make the acquaintance of Mrs. Potcheter. As I wheel- ed about and walked away from him, I overheard him remark to three other gruff-looking Boers who stood beside him that I was ‘‘a verdomd -Englishman.” Notwithstanding this cold reception, on returning to the house I soon managed to get into their good graces, and took dinner with them. During dinner the con- versation turned on politics, when a keen discussion. arose concerning the present administration of the gov- ernment. This being at all times a disagreeable sub- ject, I thought it time to change the conversation to sporting subjects, in which the Boers always take in- tense interest. I accordingly mentioned to one of the * young ladies who sat next to me that I had in my wagon a large work containing engravings of all the most interesting animals in the world, on which she instantly expressed a strong desire to see it. IJ then produced my ‘“ Museum of Animated Nature,” which never failed to enchant the Boers, and it put an end to all political discussions,.shooting and wild animals en- grossing the conversation during the rest of the even- ing. These Boers informed me that I should see herds of blesboks on the following day. They also stated that lions frequented the bushy. mountain ranges which look down upon the plains frequented -by the blesboks, and they mentioned that a considerable party of Boers had mustered that day upon.a farm a few miles in ad- vance, to hunt a troop. of lions which had killed some horses on the preceding day. From the conversation 156 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. which I overheard among themselves, I learned that a war was brewing between the emigrant Boers on the northern bank of the Orange River, and the Bastard and Griqua tribes. The rumor of this war threw my followers, who also heard the news from the servants of the Boers, into a state of great alarm. I resolved, however, that my movements should not be influenced by these reports. At an early hour on the following morning a young Boer rode up to the farm, and informed us that the party who had been lion-hunting on the preceding day had bagged two fine lions, a male and female. As the farm lay directly in my line of march, I mounted Coles. berg, and, directing my followers to follow with the wagons, I rode hard for the farm, to inspect the noble game. On my way thither I met a horse-wagon, drawn by eight horses, containing some of the party who had mustered for the battue. Arriving on the farm, I found the lion and lioness laid out on the grass in front of the house, and the Boers’ Hottentots busy skinning them. Both lions were riddled with balls, and their heads were shot all to pieces. This is generally the way in which the Boers serve their lions after they have kill. ed them, fearing to approach, though dead, until they have expended:a further supply of ammunition. A Hot- tentot is then ordered to approach and throw a stone at him; the Boers then ask if he is dead, and on the Hot. tentot replying, “ Like so, baas,” he is ordered to pull him by the tail before the hunters will venture to ap- proach. My little Bushman informed me that he had often been out lion-hunting during his captivity with the Boers. On one of these occasions, a Boer, who had dismounted from his horse to fire, was dashed to the ground by the lion before he could regain his saddle. LION HUNTING BY BOERS. 157 ‘The brute, however; did not injure him, but merely stood over him, lashing his tail, and growling at the rest of the party, who had galloped to a distance in the utmost consternation, and, instead of approaching with- in easy shot of the, lion, to the rescue of their comrade, opened their fire upon him from a great distance, the consequence of which sportsman-like proceeding was, that they missed the lion, and shot their comrade dead on the spot. The lion presently retreated, and, none daring to follow him, he-escaped. The Boer on whose farm I had arrived was a tall, powerful, manly-looking fellow. He informed me that he was a Dane. He was in great distress about two favorite dogs which the lions had killed during the at- tack on the preceding day. Three more were badly wounded, and their recovery seemed doubtful. He con- firmed the reports of an impending war between the Boers and Griquas, which I had previously heard, and he asked me if I was not afraid, in times of war, to re- main hunting, with only a few followers, in the wil- derness. Being anxious to commence my operations against the blesboks, I resumed my march shortly after mid-day. On taking leave, the Dane presented me with some meal and a couple of loaves of bread, a luxury to which I had been an utter stranger for many months, and which, together with vegetables, J may further add, I hardly ever tasted during the five hunting expeditions which I performed in Southern Africa. Another short march in a northeasterly direction brought me to the western borders of the boundless regions inhabited by the blesboks. I drew up my wagons beside a vley of rain water, in open country, the plains before me be- ing adorned with herds of black waldeheess springbok, ~and blesbok. 158 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. I had now reached the borders of a country differing entirely from any I had hitherto seen. The sweet grass, which had heretofore been so abundant, became very scarce, being succeeded by short, crisp; sour pas- turage, which my cattle and horses refused to eat. A supply of forage for these, however, could generally be obtained by driving them to the stony hillocks and rocky mountain ranges which at various distances from one another intersected the champaign country. The plains were firm and hard, and admirably suited for riding ; they were pastured short and bare by the endless herds of game which from time immemorial had held posses- sion of these extensive domains. Although intersected occasionally by mountain ranges, these plains often ex- tend to amazing distances, without any landmark to break the monotony of their boundless and ocean-like expanse. At other times the eye is relieved by one or more abrupt pyramidal or cone-shaped hills, which serve as a landmark to the hunter, whereby to regain his encampment after the excitement of the chase. When the sun is powerful, which it is during the greater part of the year, an enduring mirage dances on the plain wherever the hunter turns his bewildered eyes. This mirage restricts the range of vision to a very moderate distance, and is very prejudicial to cor- rect rifle-shooting. The effect produced by this optical illusion is remarkable: hills and herds of game often appear as if suspended in midair. Dry and sun-baked vleys, or pans covered with a crystallized efflorescence, constantly delude the thirsty traveler with the prospect of water; and more than once I have ridden toward a couple of springboks, magnified a hundred-fold, which Thad mistaken for the white tilts of my wagons. .This vast tract of bare, sour pasturage, which is peculiarly HABITAT OF THE BLESBOK 159 the inheritance of the black wildebeest, the springbok, and the blesbok, but more particularly of the latter, occupies a central position, as it were, in Southern Africa. On the west of my present encampment, as far as the shores of the South Atlantic Ocean, no blesboks are to be found. Neither'do they extend to the northward of the latitude of the River Molopo, in 25° 80’, of which I shall at a future period make mention, although their herds frequent the plains along its southern bank. To the south a few small herds are still to be found with- in the colony, but their head-quarters are to the north- ward of the Orange River, whence they extend in an easterly direction throughout all the vast plains situa- ted to the west of the Witbergen range. = The blesbok, in his manners and habits, very much resembles the springbok, which, however, it greatly ex- ceeds in size, being as large as an English fallow-deer. It is one of the true antelopes, and all its movements and paces partake of the grace and elegance peculiar to that species. Its color is similar to that of the sas- sayby, its skin being beautifully painted with every shade of purple, violet, and brown. Its belly is of the purest white, and a broad white band, or ‘ blaze,” adorns the entire length of its face. Blesboks differ from springboks in the determined and invariable man- ner in which they scour the plains, right in the wind’s eye, and also in the manner in which they carry their noses close along the ground. Throughout the greater part of the year they are very wary and difficult of ap- proach, but: more especially when the does have young ones. At that season, when one herd is disturbed, and- takes away up the wind, every other herd in view fol- lows them} and the alarm extending for miles and miles down the wind, to endless herds beyond the vision of 160 ADVENTURES IN SOUTIL AFRICA. the hunter, a continued stream of blesboks may often be seen scouring up wind for upward of an hour, and covering the landscape as far as the eye can see. The springboks, which in equal numbers frequent the same ground, do not, in general, adopt the same decided course as the blesboks, but take away in every direction across the plains, sometimes with flying bounds, beautifully exhibiting the long, snowy-white hair with which their backs are adorned, and at others walking slowly and carelessly out of the hunter’s way, scarcely deigning to look at him, with an air of perfect: independence, as if aware of their own matchless speed. The black wildebeests, which also thickly cover the entire length and breadth of the blesbok country, in herds averaging from twenty to fifty, have no regular course, like the blesboks. Unless driven by a large field of hunters, they do not leave their ground, although disturbed. “Wheeling about in endless circles, and per- forming the most extraordinary variety of intricate evo- lutions, the shaggy herds of these eccentric and fierce- looking animals are forever capering and gamboling round the hunter on every side. While he is riding hard to obtain a family shot of a herd in front of him, other herds are charging down wind on his right and left, and, having described a number of circular move- ments, they take up positions upon the very ground across which the hunter rode only a few minutes before. Singly, and in small troops of four or five individ- uals, the old bull wildebeests may be seen stationed at intervals throughout the plains, standing motionless during a whole forenoon, coolly watching with a philo- sophic eye the movements of the other game, eternally uttering a loud snorting noise, and also a short, sharp cry which is peculiar to them. When the hunter ap- BLESBOK HUNTING. 161 proaches these old bulls, they commence whisking their long white tails in a most eccentric manner; then springing suddenly into the air, they. begin prancing and capering, and pursue each other in circles at their utmost speed. Suddenly they all pull up together to overhaul the intruder, when two of the bulls will often commence fighting in the most violent manner, drop- ping on their knees at every shock ; then quickly wheel- ing about, they kick up their heels, whirl their tails with a fantastic flourish, and scour across the plain en- veloped in a cloud of dust. . Throughout the greater part. of the plains frequented by blesboks, numbers of the sun-baked hills or mounds of clay formed by the white ants occur. The average height of the ant-hills, in these districts, is from two to three feet. They are generally distant from one an- other from one to three hundred yards, being more or less thickly placed in different parts. These ant-hills are of the greatest service to the hunter, enabling him with facility to conceal himself on the otherwise open plain. By means of them I was enabled to hide, and select out of the herds the bucks and bulls carrying the finest heads, for my collection. On the 28th, having breakfasted, I rode forth with two after-riders to try for blesboks, and took up posi- tions on the plain, lying flat on my breast behind ant- hills, while my after-riders, one of whom led my horse, endeavored to move them toward me. We found the blesboks' abundant, but extremely wary. I wounded several, but did not bag one. I, however, shot two springboks, which were fat, and whose flesh we stood much in need of. I had several chances of wildebeests, but I had resolved not to fite at them. The following day was the 1st of March. After an Missing Page Missing Page Missing Page Missing Page 166 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. serpents of Africa, death ensuing within an hour after its bite. On the 15th I had a very good day’s sport. As the day dawned I peeped from my hole, and saw troops of blesboks feeding on every side of me, but none came within.range. I shot one springbok, and, having con- cealed him in the rushes, walked to camp. After break- fast I took the field with Kleinboy and the Bushman, and rode north to try for blesboks. While lying be- hind an ant-hill on the bare plain, a herd of about thirty. wildebeests came thundering down upon me, and the leading bull nearly jumped over me. Into one of these I fired ; he got the ball too far back, however, and made off, but was found by one of my men the following day. Presently Kleinboy rode up, and stated that while he was driving the blesboks he had observed an old stag hartebeest standing in the shade of some tall green bushes in the adjacent range of hills. I resolved to stalk him in the most approved Highland fashion ; so, having made an accurate survey of the ground with my spy-glass, I rode within a quarter.of a mile of him, and then proceeded to creep in upon him on my hands and knees. In this manner I got within sixty yards of him, where I lay flat on my breast for several minutes until he should give me his broadside. Presently he walked forth from the cover of the bush beneath which he had been standing, when I sent a ball in at his right shoul- der, which rested on the skin in his left haunch. Wheel- ing about, he bounded over an adjacent ridge and was out of sight in a moment. On gaining this ridge, I was just in time to see the noble hartebeest stagger for a moment, and then subside into the long grass in a hollow below me. He was a princely old stag, carry- ing splendid horns and a beautiful coat of new hair.: I GRAND SHOOTING. 167 thought I could never sufficiently admire him. Having removed the head and skin, we made for the camp, and on my way thither I was tempted to try a long shot at one of the two old blesboks that kept capering to lee- ward of us. Sitting down on the grass, and resting both my elbows on my knees (a manner of firing much practiced by the Boers), I let fly at a blesbok, and: made one of the finest shots I had ever seen, sending the ball through the middle of his shoulder at upward of two hundred and fifty yards. On receiving it, he cantered forward a short distance and fell dead. The rifle I used in those days was a. double-barreled two- grooved one, by Dixon of Edinburgh, with which I managed to make such superior shooting to that which I could perform with the old style of rifle, that I con- sidered the latter as a mere “pop-gun” in comparison with the other. _ In the evening I took up my position in my shooting-hole to the northward. of camp. About an hour after the moon rose, a troop of wildebeests came and stood within thirty yards of me. I fired, and a very large bull with one horn fell to the shot. If I had al- lowed this bull to lie there, my chance of further sport was over for that night and the following morning. I therefore took the old fellow by his horn, and, exerting my utmost strength and taking time, I managed to drag him as he fell, and still living, to a hollow beside the water, in which I concealed him. In half an hour another troop of wildebeests came and stood snuffing on the spot where he had fallen. I fired, and a fine old bull received the ball in the shoulder, nil hounding forward one hundred yards, rolled over in the dust. In about an hour a third troop of wildebeests came and: stood within thirty yards of me, . At one of these I let fly, and heard the ball crack loudly on his shoulder. . 168 =. ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA, On the 16th I hunted on the plains to the northeast, killing one springbok, and at night I watched the dis- tant vley to the northward of my camp, and got a fright which I shall remember to my dying day. Soon after the moon rose, a troop of wildebeests came with- in range; at one of these I fired, and he dropped to the shot, the ball passing through the spine. A little after this I discharged my other barrel at a large spotted hyeena, and then I returned my rifle to its holster with- out loading either barrel, and presently I was asleep. I had not slept long when my light dreams were in- fluenced by strange sounds. I dreamed that lions were rushing about in quest of me, and, the sounds increas- ing, [awoke with a sudden start, uttering a loud shriek. I could not for several seconds remember in what part of the world I was, or any thing connected with my present position. I heard the rushing of light feet as of a pack of wolves close on every side of me, accom- panied by the most unearthly sounds. On raising my head, to my utter horror J saw on every side nothing but savage wild dogs, chattering and growling. On my right and on my left, and within a few paces of me, stood two lines of these ferocious-looking animals, cock- ing their ears and stretching. their necks to have a look at me; while two large troops, in which there were at least forty of them, kept dashing backward and forward across my wind within a few yards of me, chattering and growling with the most extraordinary volubility. Another troop of wild dogs were fighting over the wilde- beest I had shot, which they had begun to devour. On beholding them, I expected no other fate than to be in- stantly torn to pieces and consumed. I felt my blood curdling along my cheeks and my hair bristling on my head. However, I had presence of mind to consider WILD DOGS—A CUNNING BULL WILDEBEEST. 169 that the human voice and a determined bearing might overawe them, and accordingly, springing to my feet, I stepped on to the little ledge surrounding the hole, where, drawing myself up to my full height, I waved my large blanket with both hands, at the same time addressing my savage assembly in a loud and solemn manner. This had the desired effect: the wild dogs removed to a more respectful distance, barking at me something like collies. Upon this I snatched up my rifle and commenced loading, and before this was ac- complished the entire pack had passed away and did not return. These had not been gone many minutes when twelve or fifteen large hyeenas were hard at work on the wilde- beest. I fired two shots at them at different times during the night, but none fell to my shots. -Heedless of me, they continued their banquet, and long before morning nothing was left of the wildebeest save a few of the larger bones. On the two following mornings J was annoyed by a cunning old bull wildebeest, which, having discovered my retreat, kept sentry over me, and successively drove away every troop of his fellows that approached my vley to drink. He kept feeding just out of rifle-range, and. not only warned his com- rades of their danger by fixing his eye on my place of concealment and snorting loudly, but when this failed he drove the other wildebeests from me in the most de- termined manner, like a collie dog driving sheep. Be- fore leaving my hole, however, on the second morning, I had my revenge. A troop of cows, heedless of his warnings, approached the vley. In his anxiety for their safety he neglected his own; and coming for the first time within long rifle-range, I put up my after-sights and let drive at his ribs. The ball took effect, and, Vou. 1.—H. 170 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. kicking up his heels and flourishing his long white tail, the old bull bounded forth, and, disappearing over a ridge, I saw him no more. The night of the 19th was to me rather a memora- ble one, as being the first on which I had the satisfac- tion of hearing the deep-toned thunder of the lion’s roar Although there was no one near to inform me by what beast the haughty and impressive sounds which echo- ed through the wilderness were produced, I had little difficulty in divining. There was no mistake about it; and on hearing it I at once knew, as well as if accus- tomed to the sound from my infancy, that the appall- ing roar which was uttered within half a mile of me was no other than that of the mighty and terrible king of beasts. Although the dignified and truly monarch- ical appearance of the lion has long rendered him fa- mous among his fellow quadrupeds, and his appearance and habits have often been described by abler pens than mine, nevertheless I consider that a few remarks, re- sulting from my own personal experience, formed by a tolerably long acquaintance with him both by day and by night, may not prove uninteresting to the reader. There is something so noble and imposing in the pres- ence of the lion, when seen walking with dignified self- possession, free and undaunted, on his native soil, that no description can convey an adequate idea of his strik- ing appearance. The lion is exquisitely formed by na- ture for the predatory habits which he is destined to pursue. Combining in comparatively small compass the qualities of power and agility, he is enabled, by means of the tremendous machinery with which nature has gifted him, easily to overcome and destroy almost every beast of the forest, however superior to him in weight and stature. HABITS OF THE LION. 171 Though considerably under four feet in height, he has little difficulty in dashing to the ground and over- coming the lofty and apparently powerful giraffe, whose head towers above the trees of the forest, and whose skin is nearly an inch in thickness. The lion is the constant attendant of the vast herds of buffaloes which frequent the interminable forests of the interior; and a full-grown one, so long as his teeth are unbroken, gen- erally proves a match for an old bull buffalo, which in size and strength greatly surpasses the most powerful breed of English cattle: the lion also preys on all the larger varieties of the antelopes, and on both varieties of the gnoo. The zebra, which is met with in large herds throughout the interior, is also a favorite object of his pursuit. Lions do not refuse, as has been asserted, to feast upon the venison that they have not killed themselves. Ihave repeatedly discovered lions of all ages which had taken possession of, and were feasting upon, the car- casses of various game quadrupeds which had fallen before my rifle. The lion is very generally diffused throughout the secluded parts of Southern Africa. He is, however, nowhere met with in great abundance, it being very rare to find more than three, or even two, families of lions frequenting the same district and drink- ing at the same fountain. When a greater number were met with, I remarked that it was owing to long- protracted droughts, which, by drying nearly all the fountains, had compelled the game of various districts to crowd the remaining springs, and the lions, accord- ing to their custom, followed in the wake. It is a common thing to come upon a full-grown lion and lion- ess associating with three or four large ones nearly full grown; at other times, full-grown males will be found 172 ADVENTURES 1N SOUTH AFRICA. associating and hunting together in a happy state of friendship: two, three, and four full-grown male lions may thus be discovered consorting together. The male lion is adorned with a long, rank, shaggy mane, which in some instances almost sweeps the ground. ‘The color of these manes varies, some being very dark, and others of a golden yellow. This ap- pearance has given rise to a prevailing opinion among the Boers that there are two distinct varieties of lions, which they distinguish by the respective names of “Schwart fore life” and ‘“Chiel fore life: this idea, however, is erroneous. The color of the lion’s mane is generally influenced by his age. He attains his mane ‘n the third year of his existence. I have remarked that at first it is of a yellowish color; in the prime of life it is blackest, and when he has numbered many years, but still is in the full enjoyment of his power, it assumes a yellowish-gray, pepper-and-salt sort of color. These old fellows are cunning and dangerous, and most to be dreaded. The females are utterly destitute of a mane, being covered with a short, thick, glossy coat of tawny hair. The manes and coats of lions frequenting open-lying districts utterly destitute of trees, such as the borders of the great Kalahari desert, are more rank and handsome than those inhabiting forest districts. One of the most striking things connected with the lion is his voice, which is extremely grand and peculiar- ly striking. It consists at times of a low, deep moan- ing, repeated five or six times, ending in faintly audi- ble sighs; at other times he startles the forest with loud, deep-toned, solemn roars, repeated five or six times in quick succession, each increasing in loudness to the third or fourth, when his voice dies away in five or six low, muffled sounds, very much resembling distant THE ROAR OF THE LION. 173 thunder. At times, and not unfrequently, a troop may be heard roaring in concert, one assuming the lead, and two, three, or four more regularly taking up their parts, like persons singing a catch. Like our Scottish stags at the rutting season, they roar loudest in cold, frosty nights; but on no occasions are their voices to be heard in such perfection, or so intensely powerful, as when two or three strange troops of lions approach a fount- ain to drink at the same time. "When this occurs, every member of each troop sounds a bold roar of defiance at the opposite parties; and when one roars, all roar to- gether, and each seems to vie with his comrades in the in- tensity and power of his voice. The power and grandeur of these nocturnal forest concerts is inconceivably strik- ing and pleasing to the hunter’s ear. The effect, I may remark, is greatly enhanced when the hearer happens to be situated in the depths of the forest, at the dead hour of midnight, unaccompanied by any attendant, and ensconced within twenty yards of the fountain which the surrounding troops of lions are approaching. . Such has been my situation many scores of times; and though I am allowed to have a tolerably good taste for music, I consider the catches with which I was then regaled as the sweetest and most natural I ever heard. As a general rule, lions roar during the night; their sighing moans commencing as the shades of evening envelop the forest, and continuing at intervals through- out the night. In distant and secluded regions, how- ever, I have constantly heard them roaring loudly as late as nine and ten o’clock on a bright sunny morn- ing. In hazy and rainy weather they are to be heard at every hour in the day, but their roar is subdued. It often happens that when two strange male lions meet at a fountain a terrific combat ensues, which not un- 174 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. frequently ends in the death of one of them. Tha habits of the lion are strictly nocturnal; during the day he lies concealed beneath the shade of some low bushy tree or wide-spreading bush, either in the level forest or on the mountain side. He is also partial to lofty reeds, or fields of long, rank yellow grass, such as occur in low-lying vleys. From these haunts he sallies forth when the sun goes down, and commences his nightly prowl. When he is successful in his beat and has secured his prey, he does not roar much that niyht, only uttering occasionally a few low moans; that is, provided no intruders approach him, otherwise the case would be very different. Lions are ever most active, daring, and presuming in dark and stormy nights, and consequently, on such occasions, the traveler ought more particularly to be on his guard. I remarked a fact connected with the lions’ hour of drinking peculiar to themselves: they seemed unwilling to visit the fountains with good moonlight. Thus, when the moon rose early, the lions deferred their hour of watering until late in the morning; and when the moon rose late, they drank at a very early hour in the night. By this acute system many a grisly lion saved his bacon, and is now luxuriating in the forest of South Africa, which had otherwise fallen by the barrels of my “‘ Westley Richards.” Owing to the tawny color of the coat with which nature has robed him, he is perfectly invisible in the dark; and although I have often heard them loudly lapping the water under my very nose, not twenty yards from’ me, I could not possibly make out so much as the outline of their forms. "When a thirsty lion comes to water, he stretches out his massive arms, lies down on his breast to drink, and makes a loud lap- ping noise in drinking not to be mistaken. He con« ur" FEARLESSNESS OF THE LION. 175 tinues lapping up the water for a long while, and four or five times during the proceeding he pauses for half a minute as if to take breath. One thing conspicuous about them is their eyes, which, in a dark night, glow like two balls of fire. The female is more fierce and active than the male, as a general rule. Lionesses which have never had young are much more danger- ous than those which have. At no time is the lion so much to be dreaded as when his partner has got small young ones. A+ that season he knows no fear, and, in the coolest and most intrepid manner, he will face a thousand men. A remarkable instance of this kind came under my own observation, which confirmed the reports I had before heard from the natives. One day, when out elephant-hunting in the territory of the “ Ba- seleka,” accompanied by two hundred and fifty men, I was astonished suddenly to behold a majestic lion slow- _ly and steadily advancing toward us with a dignified step and undaunted bearing, the most noble and impos- ing that can be conceived. Lashing his tail from side to side, and growling haughtily, his terribly expressive eye resolutely fixed upon us, and displaying a show of ivory well calculated to inspire terror among the timid ‘“‘Bechuanas,” he approached. A headlong flight of the two hundred and fifty men was the immediate result; and, in the confusion of the moment, four couples of my dogs, which they had been leading, were allowed to escape in their couples. These instantly faced the lion, who, finding that by his bold bearing he had succeeded in putting his enemies to flight, now became solicitous for the safety of his little family, with which the lion- ess was retreating in the back-ground. Facing about, he followed after them with a haughty and independent step, growling fiercely at the dogs which trotted along 176 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. on either side of him. Three troops of elephants hay ing been discovered a few minutes previous to this, upon which I was marching for the attack, I, with the most heartfelt reluctance, reserved my fire. On run- ning down the hill side to endeavor to recall my dogs, I observed, for the first time, the retreating lioness with fourcubs. About twenty minutes afterward two noble elephants repaid my forbearance. Among Indian Nimrods, a certain class of royal ti- gers is dignified with the appellation of ‘‘ man-eaters.” These are tigers which, having once tasted human flesh, show a predilection for the same, and such characters are very naturally famed and dreaded among the na- tives. Elderly gentlemen of similar tastes and habits are occasionally met with among the lions in the inte- rior of South Africa, and the danger of such neighbors may be easily imagined. I account for lions first ac- quiring this taste in the following manner: the Bechua- na tribes of the far interior do not bury their dead, but unceremoniously carry them forth, and leave them ly- ing exposed in the forest or on the plain, a prey to the lion and hyena, or the jackal and vulture; and I can readily imagine that a lion, having thus once tasted human flesh, would have little hesitation, when oppor- tunity presented itself, of springing upon and carrying off the unwary traveler or “‘ Bechuana” inhabiting his country. Be this as it may, man-eaters occur; and on my fourth hunting expedition, a horrible tragedy was acted one dark night in my little lonely camp, by one of these formidable characters, which deprived me, in the far wilderness, of my most valuable servant. In winding up these few observations on the lion, which I trust will not have been tiresome to the reader, I may remark that lion-hunting, under any circumstances, is BOER ENCAMPMENT. 177 decidedly a dangerous pursuit. It may nevertheless be followed, to a certain extent, with comparative safe- ty by those who have naturally a turn for that sort of thing. A recklessness of death, p2rfect coolness and self-possession, an acquaintance with the disposition and manners of lions, and a tolerable knowledge of the use of the rifle, are indispensable to him who would shine in the overpoweringly exciting pastime of hunt- ing this justly celebrated king of beasts. CHAPTER X. Boer Encampment—A Night in a Storm—-A Fancy Costume—Fear- ful Encounter with a Lioness—* Colesberg” dreadfully mangled— Cowardice of Hottentots—We march back to Colesberg—Danger of being plundered by the Rebel Boers—Arrival at Colesberg—The Troops march against the Boers—The Battle of Schwart Coppice— Start for the distant Land of Elephants—The Hottentots make free with my Brandy, and mutiny—Leopards—Kuruman—Mr. Moffat, the good Missionary—Roasted Locusts. On the 22d of March I rode south to:a distant farm, for the double purpose of obtaining some corn or meal, and of hearing the news of the impending war between the Boers and Griquas. On reaching the farm, I found that a large party of Boers were here encamped to- gether: they had mustered for mutual protection. Their tents and wagons were drawn up on every side of the farm-house, forming a very lively appearance. The Boers informed me that all their countrymen, and also the Griquas, were thus packed together in “ la.” gers” or encampmenis, and that hostilities were about to commence. They remonstrated with me on what H2 178 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. they were pleased to term my madness, in living alone in an isolated position in such sharp times, and invited me to place myself for protection under their banner. I endeavored to persuade them to get up a party to hunt the lion; but this they declined to do, remarking that ‘a lion (like Johnnie Gordon’s bagpipes) was not to be played with.” Returning to my camp, I bowled over a springbok at one hundred and fifty yards. On the 23d, having breakfasted, I rode north, with after- riders, to try for blesboks. It was a cool day, with a strong easterly breeze, and we found the game ex- tremely wild. As we proceeded, vast herds kept streaming up on the wind, darkening the plain before us in countless thousands. About two miles north of the bushy mountain where I had heard the lion roar, far in the vast level plain, were some bushy mimosa- trees. Within a few hundred yards of these we dis- covered an old bull wildebeest, newly killed by a lion and halfeaten. His large and striking foot-prints were deeply imbedded in the sand, and so fresh that they seemed to have been imprinted only a few minutes be- fore. Moreover, there was not a single vulture near the carcass. We therefore felt convinced that the lion must be lying somewhere near us, having hidden him- self on our approach. We searched for some time in the adjacent hollows, where the grass was very rank, but in vain. The game now became more and more wild, taking away into another district in long strings, like our island red-deer when hard driven; I accord- ingly gave it up, and turned my horse’s head for camp. On my way thither I bagged one blesbok and two bull ‘wildebeests: one of these got the bullet through his heart, but nevertheless stood at bay for some time after On reaching camp I suddenly resolved to take men and A NIGHT IN A STORM. 179 horses with me, and spend the night in the vicinity of the lion, and search early for him on the following morning. Accordingly, while dinner was preparing, I occupied myself in cleaning and loading my three dou- ble-barreled rifles; after which, having dined, I rode with Kleinboy and John Stofolus to my hole by the vley, where my bedding lay day and night. This spot was within a few miles of where we expected to fall in with the lion in the morning. We secured the three horses to one another, as there was no tree or bush with- in miles of us; but these I could dispense with, for I knew very well by the looks of the Hottentots that they would not sleep much, but would keep a vigilant eye over our destinies. I spent a most miserable night. The wind, which had been blowing so fresh in the height of the day, had subsided to a calm when the sun went down, and was now succeeded by an almost death-like stillness, which I too well knew was the harbinger of a coming tempest. We had not lain down an hour when the sky to leeward became black as pitch. Pres- ently the most vivid flashes of lightning followed one another in quick succession, accompanied by terrific peals of thunder. The wind, which, during the day, had been out of the northeast, now, as is usual on such occasions, veered. right round, and came whistling up from the southwest, where the tempest was brewing ; and in a few minutes more it was upon us in all its fury, the rain descending in torrents on our devoted heads, while vivid flashes of lightning momentarily il- lumined, with the brilliancy of day, the darkness that reigned around. Ina very few minutes the whole plain was a sheet of water, and every atom of my clothes and bedding was thoroughly saturated. My three rifles had excellent holsters, and with the help of two sheep. 180 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. skins, which I used instead of saddle-cloths, I kept therr quite dry. In two hours the tempest had passed away, but light rain fell till morning, until which time I lay on the wet ground, soaked to the skin. About mid- night we heard the lion roar a mile or so to the north- ward, and a little before the day dawned I again heard him in the direction of the carcass which we had found on the preceding day. Soon after this I gave the word to march. We then arose and saddled our horses. I found my trowsers lying in a pool of water, so I con- verted a blanket into a long kilt by strapping it round my waist with my shooting-belt. The costume of my followers was equally unique. We held for the north end of the lion’s mountain at a sharp pace, which we gained before it was clear enough to see surrounding objects. As the light broke in upon us we reduced our pace, and rode slowly up the middle of the vast level plain toward the carcass of the wildebeest, with large herds of wildebeests, springbok, blesbok, and quaggas on every ride of us, which were this day as tame as they had been wild on the previous one. This is gen- erally the case after a storm. The morn was cloudy ; misty vapors hung on the shoulders of the neighboring mountains, and the air was loaded with balmy per- fume, emitted by the grateful plants and herbs. As we approached the carcass, I observed several jackals steal away, and some half-drowned-looking vultures were sitting round it. But there was no appearance of the lion. I spent the next half hour in riding across the plain looking for his spoor ; but I sought in vain. Be- ing cold and hungry, I turned my horse’s head for camp, and rode slowly along through the middle of the game which would scarcely move out of rifle-range on either side of me. ENCOUNTER WITH A LIONESS. 181 Suddenly I observed a number of vultures seated on the plain about a quarter of a mile ahead of us, and close beside them stood a huge lioness, consuming a blesbok which she had killed. She was assisted in her repast by about a dozen jackals, which were feasting along with her in the most friendly and confidential manner. Directing my followers’ attention to the spot, I remarked, “‘I see the lion;” to which they replied, “Whar? whar? Yah! Almagtig! dat is he;” and instantly reining in their steeds and wheeling about, they pressed their heels to their horses’ sides, and were preparing to betake themselves to flight. I asked them what they were going todo. To which they answer- ed, “‘ We have not yet placed caps on our rifles.” This was true; but while this short conversation was pass- ing the lioness had observed us. Raising her full, round face, she overhauled us for a few seconds, and then set off at a smart canter toward a range of mountains some miles to the northward ; the whole troop of jackals also started off in another direction; there was, therefore, no time to think of caps. The first move was to bring her to bay, and nota second was to be lost. Spurring my good and lively steed, and shouting to my men to follow, I flew across the plain, and, being fortunately mounted on Colesberg, the flower of my stud, I gained upon her at every stride. This was to me a joyful mo- ment, and I at once made up my mind that she or I must die. ‘The lioness having had a long start of me, we went over a considerable extent of ground before I came up with her. She was a large, full-srown beast, and the bare and level nature of the plain added to her impos. ing appearance. Finding that I gained upon her, sho reduced her pace from a canter to a trot, carrying her 182 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRIOA tail stuck out behind her, and slewed a little to one side. I shouted loudly to her to halt, as I wished to speak with her, upon which she suddenly pulled up, and sat on her haunches like a dog, with her back to- ward me, not even deigning to look round. She then appeared to say to herself, “‘ Does this fellow know who he is after?” Having thus sat for half a minute, as if involved in thought, she sprang to her feet, and, facing about, stood looking at me for a few seconds, moving her tail slowly from side to side, showing her teeth, and growling fiercely. She next made a short run forward, making a loud, rumbling noise like thun- der. This she did to intimidate me; but, finding that I did not flinch an inch nor seem to heed her hostile demonstrations, she quietly stretched out her massive arms, and lay down on the grass. My Hottentots now coming up, we all three dismounted, and, drawing our rifles from their holsters, we looked to see if the pow- der was up in the nipples, and put on our caps. While this was doing the lioness sat up, and showed evident symptoms of uneasiness. She looked first at us, and then behind her, as if to see if the coast were clear ; after which she made a short run toward us, uttering her deep-drawn, murderous growls. Having secured the three horses to one another by their rheims, we led them on as if we intended to pass her, in the hope of obtaining a broadside. But this she carefully avoided to expose, presenting only her full front. I had given Stofolus my Moore rifle, with orders to shoot her if she should spring upon me, but on no account to fire before me. Kleinboy was to stand ready to hand me my Pur- dey rifle, in case the two-grooved Dixon should not prove sufficient. My men as yet had been steady, but they were in a precious stew, their faces having as- ENCOUNTER WITH A LIONESS. 183 sumed a ghastly paleness, and I had a painful feeling that I could place no reliance on them. Now, then, for it, neck or nothing! She is within sixty yards of us; and she keeps advancing. We turn- ed the horses’ tails to her. I knelt on one side, and, taking a steady aim at her breast, let fly. The ball cracked loudly on her tawny hide, and crippled her in the shoulder, upon which she charged with an appalling roar, and in the twinkling of an eye she was in the midst of us. At this moment Stofolus’s rifle exploded in his hand, and Kleinboy, whom I had ordered to stand ready by me, danced about like a duck in a gale of wind. The lioness sprang upon Colesberg, and fear- fully lacerated his ribs and haunches with her horrid teeth and claws; the worst wound was on his haunch, which exhibited a sickening, yawning gash, more than twelve inches long, almost laying bare the very bone. I was very cool and steady, and did not feel in the least degree nervous, having fortunately great confidence in my own shooting; but I must confess, when the whole affair was over, I felt that it was a very awful situa- tion, and attended with extreme peril, as I had no friend with me on whom I could rely. When the lioness sprang on Colesberg, I stood out from the horses, ready with my second barrel for the first chance she should give me of a clear shot. This she quickly did; for, seemingly satisfied with the re- venge she had now taken, she quitted Colesberg, and, slewing her tail to one side, trotted sulkily past within a few paces of me, taking one step to the left. I pitch- ed my rifle to my shoulder, and in another second the lioness was stretched-on the plain a lifeless corpse. In the struggles of death she half turned on her back, and stretched her neck and fore arms convulsively, when Missing Page Missing Page 186 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. afterward assisted against\the Boers. I deemed it rather a rash step thus coolly to march through the enemy’s country, bearding as it were the lion in his den. There was, however, no help for it; so I resolved to take the bull by the horns, and put on a bold face. The least that I might have expected was to have my wagons most thoroughly ransacked and plundered, if not taken from me altogether. This they would certainly have done if they had thought that I was an Englishman; but by saying I was a berg Scot, or mountain Scots- man, backed by the garb of Old Gaul, which I always wore, I convinced them that I was a Scotsman. Many of the clergymen among the Boers being Scots, they entertain a predilection for my countrymen. These Boers happened to be short of coffee, a bever- age of which they are extremely fond. I had, fortu- nately, a large supply in my wagons, and as I was on my way to Colesberg, I had no objection to dispose of it. Accordingly, by presenting the ladies of the lead- ing families with a few half pounds of coffee, and sell- ing them the remainder of my stock at a moderate price, I managed to secure the good graces of the whole, and they were pleased to express their opinion that I was a “ ghooe carle,” or good fellow. On hearing that a few days previous I had bagged a savage lioness, and on beholding her trophies, they seemed quite astonish- ed, remarking to one another, “‘ Mi scapsels! vat zoor- ten mens is de?” signifying, ‘“‘ My stars and garters ! what sort of man is this?” In the course of the even- ing and during the night several armed parties of Boers halted at this lager to refresh, and then passed on to join the head-quarters of their army, which was en- camped about forty miles to the southward, at a place called “‘Schwart Coppice.” Each of these Boers was ‘ARRIVAL AT ORANGE RIVER. 187 provided with one or more pack-horses bearing his com- missariat and ammunition, and many of them had Hot- tentot and Bushman after-riders. Their sole weapon consisted of their roer or long gun; each wore a leathern shooting-belt round his waist, and a large bullock’s horn containing powder dangled by his side. On the 31st I continued my march, and on the even- ing of the 2d of April I reached Philipolis, a missionary station, and the chief town of the Bastards’ country. My road had led between the encampments of the con- tending parties. Troops of mounted Boers had been scouring the country in every direction, plundering all they could lay their hands on, and sweeping off the cat- tle and horses of the Bastards. Halting at an encamp- ment of Bastards on the preceding day, J was much amused by their taking me for a missionary. My cos- tume was not very clerical, consisting of a dirty shirt and an old Gordon tartan kilt. From a Bastard in the vicinity of Philipolis I obtained two large rough dogs in exchange for three pounds of coffee and a little tea. The names of these dogs were “ Bles” and “ Flam.” Bles was of an extremely fierce and savage disposition. On the evening of the 3d we encamped on the northern bank of the mighty Orange River, at a place called “Boata’s Drift,” which is nearly opposite Colesberg. Our march had been through a succession of mountains, covered with excellent pasture to their summits. It had rained heavily throughout the day. After inspect- ing the drift or ford on the following morning, we cal- culated that the river was too high for the wagons to cross; and by sending a man over on horseback, ac- cording to the most approved custom, we ascertained that a passage for the wagons was impracticable. I accordingly instructed my men to proceed to Norval’s 188 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. Punt, situated a long march higher up the river, there to cross and join me in Colesberg on the evening of the following day; and having breakfasted, I saddled “ The Immense Brute,” and, taking the ford high up, managed to cross the river in safety, the current having twice taken my horse off his legs. In two hours J entered the village of Colesberg, where I found the officers of the 91st and all my other friends in great force. My wagons did not make their appearance in Coles- berg until the afternoon of the third day. I took up my quarters with my old friend Mr. Paterson, who also kindly accommodated the half of my stud in his stables, and the other half I picketed in the stables of my old regiment, the Cape Mounted Rifles. My oxen I per- mitted to run day and night in the neighboring mount- ains. On the 7th we off-loaded the wagons, and made a grand parade of my heads and hunting trophies in front of Paterson’s house, which was situated in the center of the village: this attracted crowds of persons throughout the day. In the afternoon of the 8th, Mr. Rawstorne, the resident magistrate, received dispatches from Adam Kok, chief of the Bastards, stating that the Boers had commenced active hostilities, and craving assistance from government. Accordingly, in the even- ing, an order was issued that all the available force in the garrison should march upon the Orange River next day. This I considered an intense bore, as I should thereby lose the society of all my friends. On the fol- lowing morning all was bustle and preparation through- out the village, the military preparing for the march, and the merchants loading up their wagons with com- missariat for the supply of the troops, while many a dark-eyed nymph wiped the hot tear from her express. ive eye, and heaved a deep-drawn sigh as she reflect WAR WITH THE BOERS. 189 ed on the absence of her lover and the casualties of war. At half past twelve the men mustered on the parade- ground, and marched out of the village for Alleman’s Drift. Paterson politely requested me to occupy his quarters as long as I remained in Colesberg, and not to spare his cellar, which contained most excellent wine. On the following day, while actively employed in for- warding my affairs, a friend informed me that all my oxen were safely lodged in the skit-kraal or pound, from which I released them, after a deal of trouble and an- noyance, by a small pecuniary disbursement. In the evening the village was agitated by a report that a skirmish had taken place between the Boers and Bas- tards, in which several had fallen on both sides, and that it was the intention of the Boers to pillage Coles- berg. On the 15th, in company with Messrs. Gibbon and Draper, two merchants of Colesbeig, I rode out to visit my friends of the 91st, who were encamped at Alleman’s Drift, on the south side of the river. At this spot the Orange River and the surrounding scenery are very beautiful, reminding me of Highland scenery. At one bold sweep of the river the waters are hemmed in by stupendous granite rocks, which cause a deep and sweeping rapid. Below are long deep pools, in- closed by banks adorned with drooping willows and everlasting verdure. I found my friends the military employed, according to the most approved system in the army, luxuriating in brandy and cheroots. The privates, availing themselves of the proximity of the river, were enjoying the recreations of angling and dragging the river with nets. They captured lots of mullet and barbel, averaging from one to four pounds in weight. 190 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. A party of artillery and a detachment of the 7th Dragoon Guards were reported en route from Fort Beaufort, to assist the 91st in their operations against the Boers. Skirmishes were daily occurring between the belligerents on the opposite side, and expresses from Adam Kok were continually arriving in camp, solicit- ing assistance. The manner in which these skirmish- es were conducted was very amusing, and illustrative of the high courage of the contending parties. Every day, having breakfasted, the Boers and Bastards were in the habit of meeting and peppering away at one an- other till the afternoon, when each party returned to its respective encampment. The distance at which they stood from one another might be somewhere above a couple of miles, and they fired at one ancther peeping over ranges of coppice or low rocky hills, while large herds of springboks and wildebeests kept quietly pas- turing on the goreless field of battle between them. Some of these neutrals, I was informed, occasionally fell before the hissing balls of the redoubted warriors. Before dismissing the subject of the rebellion of °45, I may state that soon after this, the 91st and Cape Corps men being re-enforced with a party of artillery and a detachment of the 7th Dragoon Guards, they crossed the Orange River, and advanced upon the Boers’ posi- tion by forced marches, when the Boers were charged by the dragoons and put to flight, and their wagons and commissariat fell into our hands. On this occasion the Boers had two pieces of ordnance, of which they were supposed to have obtained possession some years previously at Port Natal. Over one of these presided a Frenchman of low stature; and while little Monsieur was actively employed in ramming down one of their home-made balls, which were constructed of lead, a BROTHER NIMRODS. 191. Cape Corps man rode up, and sent a bullet through the center of his skull. Thus ended the memorable battle of Schwart Coppice; and since that time the valorous Bastards have been loud in their own praises, declaring that “they are the boys to put the Boers up to the time o’ day.” On the forenoon of the 16th I rode through the river to visit a gentleman of the name of Bain, who was then living on one of Mr. Fossey’s farms. Mr. Bain had made several trips into the interior, and gave me much valuable information and dazzling accounts of the sport I might expect. He recommended my trekking down the Orange River to a drift near Rhama, and thence proceeding by Campbellsdorp to Kuruman, a mission- ary station distant from Colesberg about two hundred and fifty miles, where I should obtain a Bechuana in- terpreter, and all necessary information from the resi- dent missionary. On the following day, having taken leave of my kind friends and brother sportsmen, I rode into Colesberg. Here I had the pleasure of meeting two Nimrods, Messrs. Murray and Oswell, proceeding, like myself, on a hunting expedition into the far inte- rior—the former a keen salmon-fisher from the banks of Tay, the latter a civilian in the Honorable East In- dia Company’s service. During my stay in Colesberg I was actively employed storing my collection and re- fitting. All my specimens were carefully sown up in canvas, and nailed down in cases; and perishable arti- cles, such as skins and stuffed heads; were hermetical- ly sealed, being carefully soldered up in tin cases by old Mr. Privet, the tinsmith, one of the leading mem- bers of the community of Colesberg. I covered my wagons with new sails, and had the wheels and iron-work carefully overhauled by the black- 192 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. smith. I purchased from various parties several ex- cellent horses and trék-oxen, and increased my kennel of dogs to twelve stout, rough, serviceable-looking curs. From Mr. Williams of the commissariat I purchased a large elephant-gun, carrying four to the pound. I en- gaged two additional Hottentots, named Johannus and Kleinfeldt, and replenished my supplies in every depart- ment; and on the 22d, every thing being ready, I re- solved, if possible, to get under way that afternoon. With inconceivable trouble, I managed to collect all my runaway men, dogs, oxen, and horses together ; and, after much bustle and angry altercation with my ine- briated and swarthy crew, my caravan was in motion, and started on its distant journey. "We were followed by the female acquaintances of our Hottentots, scream- ing, yelling, and cursing at their men, at the same time catching up handfuls of red dust, which they toss- ed into the air with true Hottentot action. Having no hair fortunately to rend, they contented themselves with scratching their woolly pates and rending their petti- coats, which they soon reduced to tatters. Among oth- et articles with which I loaded up while in Colesberg was a number of common muskets, which had been represented to me as being the most available to barter for ivory with the tribes of the far interior. These I afterward turned to good account, and regretted that I did not possess ten times as many of them. As it was not improbable that, in the event of my encamping too near to Colesberg that evening, my followers would avail themselves of the opportunity to levant under cov- er of night, and return to the embraces of their wives and sweethearts, I made up my mind, having once suc- ceeded in setting them in motion, to give them a good spell of it; and accordingly, there being good moon- EPARTURE FOR THE LAND OF ELEPHANTS. 193 light, I did not permit them to outspau until after mid- night. I held a westerly course, steering for the Salt- pan’s Drift, about four days’ journey down the Orange River, where I intended crossing. By adopting this course I avoided. the hostile Boers, who were scouring the country across the river immediately opposite to Colesberg. On the fourth day I reached Salt-pan’s Drift, which I crossed with considerable difficulty, the wagons re- peatedly sticking fast in the deep sand. The opposite bank was extremely steep, and required an hour’s cut- ting with our pickaxes and shovels. We passed: the farms of several Boers, from whom I purchased three excellent dogs; named “ Wolf,” “ Prince,” and ‘‘ Bonte- berg?’ On one of these farms were half a dozen os- triches, which the Boer endeavored to persuade me to purchase. Continuing our march, on the 28th we passed through the Griqua kraal named Rhama. In the morning, on proceeding to rouse my men, I discov- ered Kleinboy very coolly smoking his pipe over my loose, dilapidated powder-casks ; upon which I seized the culprit, and handled him rather roughly. This so disgusted my friend that he dashed his pipe on the ground with true Hottentot action, and swore he would go no further with me. The appearance, however, of a fine fat sheep, which I purchased a few minutes after from a Griqua, induced Mr. Kleinboy to alter his mind on the subject, and he sulkily returned to his duty. On the 4th of May we made the fair Vaal River, which we crossed at my old drift. Here a party of Korannas rode up to the wagons, mounted on pack-oxen. The bridles consisted of thongs attached to sticks passed through a hole in he animals’ noses, and the saddle was @ sheep-skin secured with a thong across the back. Vor. L—I -' 194 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. In the evening we trekked half way to Campbellsdorp. On the march my dogs killed two fine porcupines by tearing off their heads, the only vulnerable part, but getting, at the same time, their own noses and shoul- ders full of the quills. On the following day we passed through Campbellsdorp, where I was kindly welcomed by Mr. Bartlett, the resident missionary, from whom I received a liberal present of bread and vegetables. On the third day after leaving Campbellsdorp we reached Daniel’s Kuil, a kraal of Griquas under Water- boer. The country through which we passed was level and uninteresting, no hill nor landmark relieving the ocean-like expanse and sameness of the scene in any direction. In parts the country was covered as far as I could see with a species of bush, averaging about nine feet in height, having a gray leaf and bunches of small gray blossoms, yielding a very sweet and powerful aro- matic perfume. In the evening we continued our march to Kramer’s Fonteyn, a very powerful fountain, whose waters issue hot from the earth, as if they were mixed with boiling water. Leaving Kramer’s Fonteyn on the 9th, we held for Koning, a very distant water on the road to Kuruman. Toward midnight my men com- menced driving furiously, and I ascertained that they were under the influence of liquor, which I imagined they had obtained from the Griquas. On ordering them to halt and outspan, Mr. Kleinboy only drove the harder, so that I found it necessary to send him flying off the box. A short time after I had been asleep I was wakened by a commotion among my cattle, and found that my men had commenced inspanning the ox- en, stating that they intended to proceed no further, but to return with the wagons to the colony. Finding remonstrance vain, I had recourse to my double-bar HOWTENTOTS REBELLIOUS. 195 = reled rifle, upon which my followers for the moment relinquished their intention of inspanning, and, retiring to the shelter of a neighboring bush, they shortly fell asleep. I kept sentry over the wagons during the re- mainder of the night, with my rifle in my hand and a hatchet by my side. At dawn of day on the following morning I roused my ruffians, and ordered them to in- span, which orders they mechanically obeyed, swear- ing, however, that this was the last time they would inspan my oxen. Having proceeded about ten miles, we arrived at Koning: this was a vley of fine spring water, about six hundred yards in length, densely covered with lofty reeds from twelve to fifteen feet high. This place is said never to be without lions. Here was spoor of zebras and hartebeests. In the afternoon I observed that my men were again in liquor. I had at first im- agined that the Griquas had supplied them with brandy ; but, upon examining my liquor-case, I discovered that one had been broken into, and two bottles of brandy stolen. This was a second night of anxiety and trouble. I kept watch over my goods and cattle, with my rifle in my hand, till morning. The night was piercingly cold, and in the morning the ground was white with hoar-frost, and a thick coating of ice covered the pools of water. At mid-day on the 11th we left Koning, and continued our march to Kuruman, halting at sundown without water. On our left our view was bounded by the Kamhanni Mountains, an extensive rocky chain. In every other direction a vast endless plain extended as far as the eye could strain. The plains were cover- ed with rank yellow grass, interspersed with clumps of gray-leaved bushes. Shortly before outspanning we started three leopards that were consuming a duiker. 196 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. Throughout all this country game was very scarce, Since crossing the Vaal, with the exception of feather- ed game, I had shot only one springbok and one stein- bok. On the following day we reached Kuruman, or New Litakoo, a lovely green spot in the wilderness, strongly contrasting with the sterile and inhospitable regions by which it is surrounded. I was here kindly welcomed and hospitably entertained by Mr. Moffat and Mr. Hamilton, both missionaries of the London Society, and also by Mr. Hume, an old trader, long resident at Kuruman. The gardens at Kuruman are extensive and extremely fertile. Besides corn and vegetables, they contained a great variety of fruits, among which were vines, peach-trees, nectarines, apple, orange, and lemon trees, all of which in their seasons bear a profusion of the most delicious fruit. These gardens are irrigated with the most liberal supply of water from a powerful fountain which gushes forth, at once forming a little river, from a subterraneous cave, which has several low narrow mouths, but within is lofty and extensive. This cave is stated by the natives to extend to a very great distance under ground. The natives about Ku- ruman and the surrounding districts generally embrace the Christian religion. Mr. Moffat kindly showed me through his printing establishment, church, and school- rooms, which were lofty and well built, and altogether on a scale which would not have disgraced one of the towns of the more enlightened colony. It was Mr. Moffat who reduced the Bechuana language to writing and printing, since which he has printed thousands of Sichuana Testaments, as also tracts and hymns, which are now eagerly purchased by the converted natives. Mr. Moffat is a person admirably calculated to excel WAT THE MISSIONARY. 197 in his important calling. Together with a noble and athletic frame, he possesses a face on which. forbear- ance and Christian charity are very plainly written, and his mental and bodily attainments are great. Minis- ter, gardener, blacksmith, gunsmith, mason, earpenter, glazier—every hour of the day finds this worthy pastor engaged in some useful employment—-setting, by his own exemplary piety and industrious habits, a good ex- ample to others to go and do likewise. Mr. Moffat informed me that a missionary named Dr. Livingstone, who was married to his eldest daugh- ter, had lately established a missionary station among the Bakaitlas at Mabotsa, in the vale of Bakatla, about fourteen days’ journey to the northeast. Thither he recommended me at once to proceed, as few of the larger varieties of game could now be expected to be found to the southward of Bakatla. He represented to me that my falling in with elephants, even through- out the vast forests in the country immediately beyond Bakatla, was very uncertain, and recommended me, if I was determined to have good elephant-shooting, to endeavor to push on to the remote and endless forests beyond the mountains of Bamangwato, in the territory of Sicomy, the great and paramount chief of the extens- ive country of the Bamangwato. There would also be a probability of obtaining ivory in barter from Sicomy, he being reported to possess large quantities of that valuable commodity. By Mr. Moffat’s assistance I en- gaged a Bechuana in the capacity of interpreter in the Dutch and Sichuana languages. From Mr. Hume I purchased a supply of wheat; and on the following day I set all my people to work on a mill of Mr. Moffat’s to reduce this wheat to flour. On the 15th I took leave of my friends at Kuruman, 198 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. and continued my journey in a northeasterly course through a heavy sandy country of boundless level plains, stretching away on every side, covered with rank yel- low grass, which, waving in the breeze, imparted the idea of endless fields of ripe corn. At sundown we crossed the Mailuarin River, an insignificant stream, and encamped on its northern bank. On the march we saw a few blue wildebeests and ostriches. At dawn of day on the following morning we pursued our jour- ney through the same description of country, varied, however, with detached clumps of thorny mimosas. On the march we crossed a swarm of locusts, resting for the night on the grass and bushes. They lay so thick that the wagons could have been filled with them in a very short time, covering the large bushes just as a swarm of young bees covers the branch on which it pitches. Locusts afford fattening and wholesome food to man, birds, and all sorts of beasts; cows and horses, lions, jackals, hyenas, antelopes, elephants, éc., de- vour them. We meta party of Batlapis carrying heavy burdens of them on their backs. Our hungry dogs made a fine feast on them. The cold frosty night had ren- dered them unable to take wing until the sun should restore their powers. As it was difficult to obtain sufficient food for my dogs, I and Isaac took a large blanket, which we spread under a bush, whose branches were bent to the ground with the mass of locusts which covered it; and having shaken the branches, in an in- stant I had more locusts than I could carry on my back: these we roasted for ourselves and dogs. Soon after the sun was up, on looking behind me, [ beheld the locusts stretching to the west in vast clouds, resembling smoke; but the wind, soon after veering round, brought them back to us, and they flew over our THE BECHUANA TRIBES. 199 heads, for some time actually darkening the sun. In the evening I continued my march by ‘moonlighi, and halted within a few miles of Motito, an extensive kraal of the Batlapis, a tribe of Bechuanas. The nights were piercing cold, the grass being every morning covered with white frost. CHAPTER XI. Motito—The Bechuana Tribes—The mysterious great inland Lake— Blesbok and Wildebeest abundant—Park-like Country—We arrive at the beautiful Vale of Bakatla—Dr. Livingstome, the Missionary— Native Fashions at Church—Determine to push on to Bamangwato— The Natives follow me for Venison—Great Variety of Game—A dan gerous Fight with a Herd of Buffaloes, two of which are slain—A Colony of Baboons—A Rhinoceros chases me round a Bush—Habita of the Beast—A noble Eland killed—An impromptu Steak—Slay a Rhinoceros, and lose my Way in the Forest. Av an early hour on the 17th I outspanned at Mo- tito, where I was kindly received by Monsieur Loga and Mr. Edwards, the former a French missionary sta- " tioned at Motito, and the latter an English missionary from Mabotza. Another French missionary, named Monsieur Lemue, belonging to the station, was absent. The women at Motito wear heavier ornaments of beads than any with whom I am acquainted. As Ihave now reached the southern borders of that vast tract of South- ern Africa inhabited by the numerous tribes of the Be- chwanas, it will be necessary, before proceeding further, to give a sketch of their manners and customs. They are a lively and intelligent race of people, and remark. able for their good humor: they are well formed, if not 200 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. starved in infancy. They possess pleasing features, and very fine eyes and teeth; their hair is short and woolly ; the color of their pomplodion i is of a light cop- per. The various tribes live in kraals, or villages, of various sizes, along with their respective chiefs. Their wigwams are built in a circular form, and thatched with long grass; the floor and wall, inside and out, are plastered with a compound of clay and cow-dung. The entrances are about three feet high and two feet broad. Each wigwam is surrounded with a hedge of wicker- work, while one grand hedge of wait-a-bit thorns sur- rounds the entire kraal, protecting the inmates from lions and other animals. The dress of the men consists of a kaross, or skin cloak, which hangs gracefully from their shoulders; and another garment, termed tsecha, which encircles their loins, and is likewise made of skin. On their feet they wear a simple sandal formed of the skin of the buffalo or camelopard. On their legs and arms they carry ornaments of brass and copper of different patterns, which are manufactured by themselves. The men algo wear a few ornaments of beads round their necks and on their arms. Around their necks, besides beads, they carry a variety of other appendages, the majority of which are believed to possess a powerful charm to preserve them from evil. One of these is a small hollow bone, through which they blow when in peril; another is a set of dice, formed of ivory, which they rattle in their hands and cast on the ground to ascertain if they are to be lucky in any enterprise in which they may be about to engage; also a host of bits of root and bark which are medicinal. From their necks also depend gourd snuff-boxes made of an ex- tremely diminutive species of puttipkin, trained to grow DRESS OF THE BECHUANAS. 201 in a bottle-like shape. They never move without their arms, which consist of a shield, a bundle of assagais, a battle-ax, and a knobkerry. The shields are formed of the hide of the buffalo or camelopard ; their shape among some tribes is oval, among others round. The assagai is a sort of light spear or javelin, having a wooden shaft about six feet in length attached to it. Some of these are formed solely for throwing, and a skillful warrior will send one through a man’s body at one hundred yards. Another variety of assagai is form- ed solely for stabbing. The blades of these are stouter, and the shafts shorter and thicker, than the other va- riety. They are found mostly among the tribes very far in the interior. Their battle-axes are elegantly formed, consisting of a triangular-shaped blade, fasten- ed in a handle formed of the horn of the rhinoceros.: The men employ their time in war and hunting, and ‘in dressing the skins of wild animals. The dress of the women consists of a kaross depending from the shoulders, and a short kilt formed of the skin of the pallah, or some other antelope. Around their necks, arms, waists, and ankles they wear large and cumbrous coils of beads of a variety of colors, tastefully arranged in different patterns. The women chiefly employ their time in cultivating their fields and gardens, in which they rear corn, pumpkins, and water-melons, and like- wise in harvesting their crops and grinding their corn. Both men and women go bareheaded: they anoint their heads with “ sibelo,” a shining composition, being a mixture of fat and a gray sparkling ore, having the appearance of mica. Some of the tribes besmear their bodies with a mixture of fat and red clay, imparting to them the appearance of Red Indians. Most of the tribes possess cattle; these are attended to and milked I2 202 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. solely by the men, a woman being never allowed to set foot within the cattle-kraal. Polygamy is allowed, and any man may keep as many wives as he pleases: the wife, however, has in the first instance to be purchased. Among tribes possessed of cattle, the price of a wife is ten head of cattle; but among the poorer tribes a wife may be obtained for a few spades with which they cul- tivate their fields. These spades, which are manufac. tured by themselves, are fastened in the end of a long shaft, and are used as our laborers use the hoe. Rows of women may be seen digging together in the fields singing songs, to which they keep time with their spades. The name of the chief at Motito was Motchuara, a subordinate of the great chief Mahura. He was very anxious that I should remain a day with him, for the ages of trading in ostrich feathers and karosses; ut, being anxious to push forward, I resumed my march in the afternoon, and trekked on till near mid- night, when I encamped in an extensive forest of gray and ancient-looking cameel-dorn trees. These were the finest I had yet seen in Africa, each tree assuming a wide-spreading and picturesque appearance. They were detached and in groups, like oaks in an English deer-park. Many of them were inhabited by whole colonies of the social grosbeak, a bird with whose won- derful habitations the branches were loaded. These remarkable birds, which are about the size and appear- ance of the British green-finch, construct their nests and live socially together under one common roof, the whole fabric being formed of dry grass, and exhibiting at a short distance the appearance of a haycock stuck up in the tree. The entrances to the nests are from beneath. They are built side by side, and when seen from below resemble a honey-romb. MYSTERIOUS INLAND LAKE. 203 At dawn of day on the following morning we con- tinued our march through the venerable cameel-dorn forest. The road was extremely heavy, consisting of soft, loose sand. Having proceeded about six miles, tmerging from the forest, we entered once more on a wide-spreading open country, covered in some parts with bushes, and in others only with grass. Another hour brought us to Little Chooi, a large salt-pan, where we obtained water for ourselves and cattle from a deep pit made by men. In sight were a few zebras, ostriches, and springboks. In the forenoon a number of cattle, belonging to Mahura, came to drink at the pit. Some of these carried enormous wide-spreading horns. Mahura and his tribe possess immense herds of cattle, the majority of which they “lifted” or obtain- ed in war from other Bechuana tribes. Some years before this, Mahura, assisted by another tribe, had at- tacked Sobiqua, king of the Bawangketse, a tribe in- habiting the borders of the great Kalahari desert, whom they routed, and succeeded in driving off the majority of their vast herds. Upon this, Sobiqua and his tribe fled with the remainder of the cattle across a portion of the desert to the westward, and for some years lo- cated themselves on the borders of a vast inland lake. This mysterious lake the natives in the vale of Bakatla state to be situated due west from their position, while the natives of Bamangwato, situated two hundred and fifty miles to the northward, always pointed out to me the northwest as its position. They represented to me that the natives on its banks were possessed of canoes ; that its waters were salt ; and that every day the wa- ters retired to feed, and again returned, by which I un- derstood that this lake, whatever it may be, is affected by some tide. 204 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA, At 3 P.M. we inspanried; and held on till midnight with fine moonlight, crossing a desert and sandy coun- try. In the vicinity of Chooi we passed an extensive range of old pitfalls, formed by the natives for entrap- ping game. They were dug in the form of a crescent, and occupied an extent of neatly a quarter of a mile. On the march I observed some enormous trunks of trees that had been destroyed by fire in by-gone years. On the following day we reached Loharon, an uninter- esting and desolate spot, wheré we encamped for the day beside a pool of rain water. Here I observed a few hartebeests, sassaybies, and zebras. On the 20th, having breakfasted, we inspanned, and continued our march till sunset. We passed through a very level country, covered with detached bushes. The dullness of the scene, however, was enlivened by a wondrous flight of locusts, the largest I had ever beheld. The prospect was obscured by them as far as we could see, resembling the smoke arising from a thousand giant bonfires; while those above our heads darkened our path with a double flight—thé one next the ground flying north, while the upper clouds of them held a southerly course. ‘The dogs, as usual, made a hearty meal on them. ‘We continued our march by moonlight, halting at midnight in a vast open plain beside a small pool of rain water. After breakfast I rode forth in quest of springboks, of which I bagged a couple. I fell in with blue and black wildebeests; zébras, ostriches, and bles- boks. The plains here were bare and spen, resembling the country frequented by the blesboks to the southward of the Vaal, with which country I subsequently ascer- tained it to be connected, in a due scutherly course, by an endless succession of similar bar plains, throughout ACCIDENT-—REMAINS OF A RHINOCEROS. 205 the entire extent of which the blesbok and black wilde- beest are abundant. While galloping after a herd of zebras, 'The Immense Brute” put his foot into a hole, and came down with great violence on his head, pitch- ing me over his bows. I saved my rifle at the risk of sacrificing my collar-bone, and would have escaped without further injury than. the loss of a portion of the bark of my cheek, had not my horse described a somer- sault, coming down with the broad of his back on the calf of my right leg, and bruising it so severely as to incapacitate me from walking for several days. About mid-day we resumed our march, and in the evening we reached Great Chooi, a very large salt-pan at present full of water. Here I found, for the first time, the bones and skull of a rhinoceros long killed. My inter- preter informed me that the rhinoceros had long left that country ; to his surprise, however, we discovered fresh spoor by the fountain. Continuing our march, on the 22d we entered on a new description of country ; boundless open plains being succeeded by endless forests of dwarfish trees and bushes, the ground slightly undu- lating, and covered with a variety of rich grasses and aromatic herbs. The old and seldom-trodden. wagon- track which we followed seemed a favorite foot-path for a troop of lions, their large and heavy spoor being deeply imprinted in our path. At sundown we encamped on the Siklagole River, a periodical stream, in the gravelly bed of which fine spring water could be obtained by digging. As we were in great want of flesh, my hun- gry pack being nearly starving, I resolved to rest my oxen on the following day, and hunt for eland, the spoor of several of which we discovered beside our encamp- ment. On the morning of the 23d I rode east with afters 206 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. riders and a pack-horse. The country through which we passed resembled a vast interminable park, being adorned with a continued succession of picturesque dwarfish forest-trees single and in groups. Such, with the exception of a few grassy open plains, is the char- acter of the country from Siklagole, as far as the mount- ains of Bakatla, which we reached on the 31st. Hav- ing crossed these, we proceeded up a valley about three miles, when we reached a gorge in the mountains which connected this fine valley with the great strath or vale of Bakatla. Through this gorge ran a stream of the purest crystal water. Our road lay along the margin of this stream, across large masses of stone and ledges of rock, which threatened every moment the de- struction of our wagons. — Following the stream for half a mile, we arrived at Mabotza, the kraal of Mosielely, king of the Bakatlas, a tribe of Bechuanas. Here I was kindly received by Dr. Livingstone, the resident missionary. The vale of Bakatla, which I had now reached, is one of the most beautiful spots in Africa. It isa broad and level strath, extending from east to west, and bounded by picturesque rocky mountains, beautifully wooded to their summits. In parts the strath is adorned with groves and patches of beautiful forest-trees of endless variety ; in others it is open, carpeted with a goodly coating of luxuriant grass. A large portion of the valley, opposite to the town, is cultivated by the Bakatla women, and a suc- cession of extensive corn-fields stretched away to the northward of the kraal. These had lately been denuded of their crops, but a goodly show of pumpkins and water-melons still remained in the fields. The follow- ing day was Sunday, and I attended Divine service in a temporary place of worship that had been erected by INTERVIEW WITH MOSIELELY. 207 the missionaries. It was amusing to remark, in the eostume of the Bakatlas on this occasion, the progress of the march of civilization. All those who had man- aged to get hold of some European article of dress had donned it, some appearing in trowsers without shirts, and others in shirts without trowsers. The 2d of June was the coldest day I had experienced in Africa, a cutting cold wind blowing off the Southern Ocean. On the morning of the 2d I was waited upon py Mosielely, attended by a number of his nobility and others of the tribe, who flocked around my wagons im- portunately requesting snuff. The appearance of the chief was mild, but not dignified. One of his generals, with whom he seemed to be on very intimate terms, was a, jolly-looking old warrior with a wall eye, and a face strongly marked with the small-pox. This man’s name was “ Siemi.” He had killed about twenty men in battle with his own hand, and bore a mark of honor for every man. This mark was a line tattooed on_his ribs. Mosielely presented me with a bag of sour milk, and requested that I would tarry with him for a few days for the purpose of trading. I informed him that I was now anxious to push on to the country of the ele- phants, but would trade with him on my return. This intimation seemed very much to disappoint the king, who was anxious to exchange karosses for guns and ammunition. But I had resolved to part with my mus- kets solely for ivory, which article Mosielely on this particular occasion did not possess.* * The Bakatlas work a great deal in iron, manufacturing various ar- ticles, with which they supply the neighboring tribes. They obtain their iron from ore, which they procure by excavating in the surround- ing mountains: This ore is smelted in crucibles, a great deal of the metal being wasted, and only the best and purest being preserved. They use a sort of double bellows, consisting of two bags of skin, by 208 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. Dr. Livingstone informed me thai large game was abundant on all sides to the northward of Bakatla. He stated that herds of elephants occasionally visited the territories of the adjoining chiefs, sometimes frequent- ing a district for half a summer, but that at present he was not aware of any elephants in the forests adjacent to Bakatla. .He represented the distant and unexplored forests beyond Bamangwato, the territory of Sicomy, as being allowed by the natives to be the country where elephants were at all times abundant. ‘There was also a prospect of obtaining there ivory in barter for my muskets. I accordingly resolved, in the first instance, to direct my attention mainly to elephants, and not to tarry in any district, however favorable, for the purpose of hunting other varieties of game. Dr. Livingstone stated that I should experience considerable difficulty in reaching Bamangwaito, since there was no path nor track of any description to guide me thither. My only chapce of getting there seemed to depend on being able to obtain Bechuana guides from Caachy, a subordinate chief of a branch of the ‘* Baquaina” tribe, then resident at a place called “ Booby,” situated about eighty miles to the northwest of Bakatla. Without these guides it would be almost impossible to proceed, as the waters were few and very far between. The probability, how- ever, was, that these guides would be refused, since it which the air is forced through the long, tapering tubes of the two horns of the oryx. The person using the bellows squats between the two bags, which he raises and depresses alternately, working one with each hand. Their hammer and anvil consist of two stones. They nev- ertheless contrive to turn very neat workmanship out of their hands, such as spears, battle-axes, assagais, knives, sewinp-needles, &. The men of this tribe also manufacture large wooden bowls, which they cut out of the solid piece, the tool they use for this purpose being a small implement shaped like an adze. START FOR BAMANGWATO. 209 is the invariable policy of African chiefs to prevent all travelers from penetrating beyond themselves. Bamangwato is distant upward of two hundred miles to the northward of Bakatla, from which it is separated by rugged and apparently impassable mountain ranges, extensive sandy deserts, which are destitute of water, and vast and trackless forests. Isaac, my interpreter, already began to lose heart, and raised a thousand ob- jections to my proceeding to so distant a country. He recommended my rather hunting in the territory of “Sichely,” the paramount chief of the Baquaines, sit- uated about fifty miles to the north of Bakatla, where he assured me we should find elephants. Perceiving that his remonstrances did not avail, and that I was in- exorable, he proposed resigning his commission, and was with difficulty prevailed on by Dr. Livingstone to agree to accompany me further. On the 3d I took leave of my kind friend Dr. Liv- ingstone, and started for Bamangwato. I was accom- panied by a large party of the Bakatla men and two Baquaines. They followed me in the hope of obtain- ing flesh, a report having spread through the tribe that I was a successful hunter. The Bechuanas are ex- tremely fond of flesh, which they consider the only food befitting men. Corn and milk they reckon the food of women. Having no flesh at home, and being seldom able to kill large game for themselves, they entertain great respect for those who kill plenty of venison for them, and they will travel to very great distances for the purpose of obtaining it. "We proceeded in a west- erly course, and held up the lovely valley of Bakatla, through open glades and patches of ancient forests. I had ridden only a short distance across the valley when I fell in with a troop of blue wildebeests, one of 210 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA, which I wounded and immediately lost in rocky ground. I then rode on, and crossed a ridge of stony hills cov- ered with thick jungle, after which I entered upon an- other grassy and well-wooded valley. Presently I ob- served seven majestic buck koodoos standing on the mountain side high above me. In trying to stalk these I disturbed a troop of graceful pallahs and a herd of zebras, which clattered along the mountain, and spoiled my stalk with the koodoos. I now observed a large herd of buffaloes reclining under a clump of mimosa- trees a little further up the valley. Descending from my position, I secured my horse to a tree, and proceed- ed to stalk in on the buffaloes. While I was doing this, a herd of zebras, which I had not observed, got my wind and came cantering through the cover within a few yards of me. When I reached the spot where I had seen the buffaloes, they were gone. Early on the 4th we inspanned and continued our march for Booby, a large party of savages still follow- ing the wagons. Before proceeding far I was tempted by the beautiful appearance of the country to saddle horses to hunt in the mountains westward of my course. I directed the wagons to proceed a few miles under guidance of the natives, and there await my arrival. I was accompanied by Isaac, who was mounted on the Old Gray, and carried my clumsy Dutch rifle of six to the pound. Two Bechuanas followed us, leading four of my dogs. Having crossed a well-wooded strath, we reached a little crystal river, whose margin was tram- pled down with the spoor of a great variety of heavy game, but especially of buffalo and rhinoceros. We took up the spoor of a troop of buffaloes, which we fol- ‘owed along a path made by the heavy beasts of the forest through a neck in the hills; and, emerging from A BUFFALO CHASE. 211 the thicket, we beheld, on the other side of a valley which had opened upon us, a herd of about ten huge bull buffaloes. These I attempted to stalk, but was defeated by a large herd of zebras, which, getting our wind, charged past and started the buffaloes. I ordered the Bechuanas to release the dogs; and spurring Coles- berg, which I rode for the first time since the affair with the lioness, I gave chase. The buffaloes crossed the valley in front of me, and made for a succession of dense thickets in the hills to the northward. As they crossed the valley, by riding hard I obtained a broad- side shot at the last bull, and fired both barrels into him. He, however, continued his course, but I presently sep- arated him, along with two other bulls, from the troop. My rifle being a two-grooved, which is hard to load, I was unable to do so on horseback, and followed with it empty, in the hope of bringing them to bay. In passing through a grove of thorny trees I lost sight of the wound- ed buffalo; he had turned short and doubled back, a common practice with them when wounded. After fol- lowing the other two at a hard gallop for about two miles, 1 was riding within five yards of their huge broad sterns. They exhaled a strong bovine smell, which came hot in my face. I expected every minute that they would come to bay, and give me time to load ; but this they did not seem disposed to do. At length, finding I had the speed of them, I increased my pace; and going ahead, I placed myself right before the finest bull, thus expecting to force him to stand at bay; upon which he instantly. charged me with a low roar, very similar to the voice of a lion. Colesberg neatly avoided the charge, and the bull resumed his northward course. We now entered on rocky ground, and the for- est became more dense as we proceeded. The buffa- 212 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. loes were evidently making for some strong retreat. I, however, managed with much difficulty to hold them in view, following as best I could through thorny thick- ets. Isaac rode some hundred yards behind, and kept shouting to me to drop the pursuit, or I should be kill- ed. At last the buffaloes suddenly pulled up, and stood at bay in a thicket within twenty yards of me. Spring- ing from my horse, I hastily loaded my two-grooved rifle, which I had scarcely completed when Isaac rode up and inquired what had become of the buffaloes, lit- tle dreaming that they were standing within twenty yards of him. J answered by pointing my rifle across his horse’s nose, and letting fly sharp right and left at the two buffaloes. A headlong charge, accompanied by a muffled roar, was the result. In an instant J was round a clump of tangled thorn-threes; but Isaac, by the violence of his efforts to get his horse in motion, lost his balance, and at the same instant, his girths giv- ing way, himself, his saddle, and big Dutch rifle, all came to the ground together, with a heavy crash, right in the path of the infuriated buffaloes. Two of the dogs, which had fortunately that moment joined us, met them in their charge, and, by diverting their attention, probably saved Isaac from instant destruction. The buffaloes now took up another position in an adjoining thicket. They were both badly wounded, blotches and pools of blood marking the ground where they had stood. The dogs rendered me assistance by taking up their at- tention, and in a few minutes these two noble bulls breathed their last beneath the shade of a mimosa grove. Each of them, in dying, repeatedly uttered a very striking, lew, deep moan. This I subsequently ascertained the buffalo invariably utters when in the act of expiring. IMMENSE HORNS OF THE BUFFALO. 213 On going up to them, I was astonished to behold their size and powerful appearance. Their horns reminded me of the rugged trunk of an oak-tree. Hach horn was upward of a foot in breadth at the base, and to- gether they effectually protected the skull with a mass- ive and impenetrable shield. The horns, descending, and spreading out horizontally, completely overshad- owed the animal’s eyes, imparting to him a look the most ferocious and sinister that can be imagined. On my way to the wagons I shot a stag sassayby, and while I was engaged in removing his head a troop of about thirty doe pallahs cantered past me, followed by one princely old buck. Snatching up my rifle, I made a fine shot, and rolled him over in the grass. Early in the afternoon I dispatched men with a pack- horse to bring the finer of the two buffalo-heads. It was so ponderous that two powerful men could with dif- ficulty raise it from the ground. ‘The Bechuanas who had accompanied me, on hearing of my success, snatch- ed up their shields and assagais, and hastened to secure the flesh, nor did I see any more of them, with the ex- ception of the two Baquaines, who remained with me, being engaged in a plot with my interpreter to prevent my penetrating to Bamangwato. Isaac did not soon forget his adventure with the buffaloes; and at night, over the fire, he informed my men that I was mad, and that any man who followed me was going headlong to his own destruction. At an early hour on the Sth I continued my march through a glorious country of hill and dale, throughout which water was abundant. Beautifully wooded hills and mountains stretched away on every side; some of the mountains were par- ticularly grand and majestic, their summits being sur- rounded by steep precipices and abrupt parapets of 214 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. rock, the abodes of whole colonies of black-faced bab- oons, which, astonished to behold such novel intruders " upon their domains, leisurely descended the craggy mountain sides for a nearer inspection of our caravan. Seating themselves together upon a broad ledge, they seemed to hold a council as to the propriety of permit- ting us to proceed further through their territories. Hav- ing advanced about nine miles, I drew up my wagons on the bank of a rivulet, where the spoor of large game was extremely abundant. In the bed of the stream I discovered the scaly skin of a manis, which had been newly eaten by some bird of prey. This extraordinary animal, which in its habits partakes of the nature of the hedgehog, is about three feet in length, and is cov- ered all over with an impenetrable coat of mail, con- sisting of large rough scales about the size and shape of the husk of an artichoke; these overlap one another in an extraordinary and very beautiful manner. Its tail is broad, and likewise covered with scales; on be- ing disturbed it rolls itself into a ball. The manis is met with throughout the interior of South Africa, but it is rare and very seldom seen. It was on the 4th of June that I beheld for the first time the rhinoceros. Having taken some coffee, I rode out unattended, with my rifle, and before proceeding far I fell in with a huge white rhinoceros with a large calf, standing in a thorny grove. Getting my wind, she set off at top speed through thick thorny bushes, the calf, as is invariably the case, taking the lead, and the mother guiding its course by placing her horn, gen- erally about three feet in length, against its ribs. My horse shied very much at first, alarmed at the strange appearance of “ Chukuroo,” but by a sharp application of spur and jambok I prevailed upon him to follow, and HUNTING THE RHINOCEROS. 215 presently, the ground improving, I got alongside, and, firing at the gallop, sent a bullet through her shoulder. She continued her pace with blood streaming from the wound, and very soon reached an impracticable thorny jungle, where I could not follow, and instantly lost her. In half an hour I fell in with a second rhinoceros, be- ing an old bull of the white variety. Dismounting, I crept within twenty yards, and saluted him with both barrels in the shoulder, upon which he made off, utter- ing a loud blowing noise, and upsetting every thing that obstructed his progress. Shortly after this I found myself on the banks of the stream beside which my wagons were outspanned. Following along its margin, I presently beheld a bull of the borélé, or black rhinoceros, standing within a hundred yards of me. Dismounting from my horse, I secured him to a tree, and then stalked within twenty yards of the huge beast, under cover of a large, strong bush. Borélé, hearing me advance, came on to see what it was, and suddenly protruded his horny nose within twenty yards of me. Knowing well that a front shot would not prove deadly, I sprang to my feet and ran behind the bush. Upon this the villain charged, blowing loudly, and chased me round the bush. Had his activity been equal to his ugliness, my wanderings would have terminated here, but by my superior agili- ty I had the advantage in the turn. After standing a short time eyeing me through the bush, he got a whiff of my wind, which at once alarmed him. Uttering a blowing noise, and erecting his insignificant yet saucy- looking tail, he wheeled about, leaving me master of the field, when I sent a bullet through his ribs to teach him manners.* * Of the rhinoceros there are four varieties in South Africa, distin 216 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFkiva. Finding that rhinoceroses were abundant in the vi cinity, I resolved to halt a day for the purpose of hunt guished by the Bechuanas by the names of the borélé, or black rhinoc- eros, the keitloa, ar two-horned black rhinoceros, the muchocho, or common white rhinoceros, and the kobaoha, or long-horned white rhi- noceros. Both varieties of the black rhinoceros are extremely fiert and dangerous, and rush headlong and unprovoked at any object whic. attracts their attention. They never attain mach fat, anc their flesh is tough, and not much esteemed by the Bechuanas. Their food consists almost entirely of the thorny branches of the wait-a-bit thorns. Their horns are much shorter than those of the other varieties, seldom ex- ceeding eighteen inches in length. They are finely polished with con- stant rubbing against the trees. The skull is remarkably formed, its most striking feature being the tremendous thick ossification Jn which it ends above the nostrils. It is on this mass that the horn is supported. The horns are not connected with the skull, being attached merely by the skin, and they may thus be separated from the head by means of a sharp knife. They are hard and perfectly solid throughout, and are a fine material for various articles, such as drinking-cups, mallets for rifles, handles for turner’s tools, &c., &c. The horn is capable of a very high polish. The eyes of the rhinoceros are small and sparkling, and do not readily observe the hunter, provided he keeps to leeward of them The skin is extremely thick, and only to be penetrated « bullets hard ened with solder. During the day the rhinoceros will be found lying asleep or standing indolently in some retired part of the forest, or under the base of the mountains, sheltered from the power of the sun by some friendly grove of umbrella-topped mimosas. In the evening they com- mence their nightly ramble, and wander over a great extent of coun- try. Tney usually visit the fountains between the hours of nme and twelve o'clock at night, and it is on these occasions that they may be most successfully hunted, and with the least danger. The black rhinoc- eros is subject to paroxysms of unprovoked fury, often plowing up the ground for several yards with its horns, and assaulting large bushes in the most violent manner. On these bushes they work for hours with their horns, at the same time snorting and blowing loudly, nor do they leave them in general until they have broken them into pieces. The rhinoceros is supposed by many, and by myself among the rest, to be the animal alluded to by Job, chap. xxxix., verses 10 and 11, where it is written, “ Canst thou bind the unicorn with his band in the furrow? or will he harrow the valleys after thee? Wilt thou trust him because his strength is great? or wilt thou leave thy labor to him?” evidently alluding to an animal possessed of great strength and of untamable disposition, for both of which the rhinoceros is remarkable. All the four varieties delight to roll and wallow in mad, with which their rug- HABITS OF THE RHINOCEROS—A BULL ELAND. 217 ing, and after an early breakfast on the 6th I rode southeast with the two Baquaines. They led me along the bases of the mountains, through woody dells and open glades, and we eventually reached a grand forest gray with age. Here we found abundance of spoor of a variety of game, and started several herds of the more common varieties. At length I observed an old bull eland standing under a tree. He was the first that I had seen, and was a noble specimen, standing about six feet high at the shoulder. Observing us, he made off at a gallop, springing over the trunks of decayed trees which lay across his path; but very soon he reduced ged hides are generally incrusted. Both varieties of the black rhinoc- eros are much smaller and more active than the white, and are so swift that a horse with a rider on his back can rarely overtake them. The two varieties of the white rhinoceros are so similar in habits, that the description of one will serve for both, the principal difference consist- ing in the length and set of the anterior horn; that of the muchocho averaging from two to three feet in length, and pointing backward, while the horn of the kobaoba often exceeds four feet in length, and inclines forward from the nose at an angle of forty-five degrees. The posterior horn of either species seldom exceeds six or seven inches in length. The kobaoba is the rarer of the two, and it is found very far in the interior, chiefly to the eastward of the Limpopo. Its horns are very valuable for loading rods, supplying a substance at once suitable for a sporting implement and excellent for the purpose. Both these varieties of rhinoceros attain an enormous size, being the animals next in magnitude to the elephant. They feed solely on grass, carry much fat, and their flesh 1s excellent, being preferable to beef. They are of a much milder and more inoffensive disposition than the black rhinoc- eros, rarely charging their pursuer. Their speed is very inferior to that of the other varieties, and a person well mounted can overtake and shoot them. The head of these is a foot longer than that of the borélé. They generally carry their heads low, whereas the borélé, when disturbed, carries his very high, which imparts to him a saucy and independent air. Unlike the elephants, they never associate in herds, but are met with singly or in pairs. In districts where they are abundant, from three to six may be found in company, and I once saw upward ‘of a dozen congregated together on some young grass, but such aN occurrence is rare. Vou. 1.—K 218 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA, his pace to a trot. Spurring my horse, another mo. ment saw me riding hard behind him. Twice in the thickets I lost sight of him, and he very nearly escaped me; but at length, the ground improving, I came up with him, and rode within a few yards behind him. Long streaks of foam now streamed from his mouth, and a profuse perspiration had changed his sleek pray coat to an ashy blue. Tears trickled from his large dark eye, and it was plain that the eland’s hours were numbered. Pitching my rifle to my shoulder, I let fly at the gallop, and mortally wounded him behind; then spurring my horse, I shot past him on his right side, and discharged my other barrel behind his shoulder, when the eland staggered for a moment and subsided in the dust.* The two Baquaines soon made their ap- pearance, and seemed delighted at my success. Hav- ing kindled a fire, they cut out steaks, which they roasted on the embers: I also cooked a steak for my- * This magnificent animal is by far the largest of all the antelope tribe, exceeding a large ox in size. ‘It also attains an extraordinary condition, being often burdened with a very large amount of fat. Its flesh is most excellent, and is justly esteemed above all others. It has a peculiar sweetness, and is tender and fit for use the moment the ani- mal is killed. Like the gemsbok, the eland is independent of water, and frequents the borders of the great Kalahari desert in herds varying from ten to a hundred. It is also generally diffused thronghout all the wooded districts of the interior where I hunted. Like ouher varieties of deer and antelope, the old malcs may often be found consorting to. gether apart from the females, and a troop of these, when in full con. dition, may be likened to a herd of stall-fed oxen. The eland has less speed than any other variety of antelope ; and, by judicious riding, they may be driven to camp froma great distance. In this manner I have often ridden the best bull out of the herd, and brought him within gun- shot of my wagons, where I could more conveniently cut up and pre- serve the flesh, without the trouble of sending men and pack-oxen to fetch it. I have repeatedly seen an eland drop down dead at the end of a severe chase, owing to his plethoric habit. The skin of the eland I had just shot emitted, like most other ante)»pes, the most delicious perfume of trees and grass. SHOOT A WHITE RHINOCEROS. 219 self, spitting it upon a forked branch, the other end of which I sharpened with my knife and stuck into the ground. Having eaten my steak, I rode to my wagons, where I partook of coffee, and, having mounted a fresh horse, again set forth, accompanied by Carollus leading a pack- horse, to bring home the head of the eland and a sup- ply of the flesh: I took all my dogs along with me to share in the banquet. We had not proceeded far when the dogs went ahead on some scent. Spurring my horse, I followed through the thorny bushes as best I might, and, emerging on an open glade, beheld two huge white rhinoceroses trotting along before me. The dogs attacked them with fury, and a scene of intense excitement ensued. The Old Gray, on observing them, pricked up his ears and seemed only half inclined ta follow, but a sharp application of the spur reminded him of his duty, and I was presently riding within ten yards of the stern of the largest, and sent a bullet through her back. The Old Gray shied considerably and became very unmanageable, and on one occasion, in consequence, the rhinoceros, finding herself hemmed in by a bend in a water-course, turned round to charge: I had a very narrow escape. Presently, galloping up on one side, I gave her a bad wound in the shoulder, soon after which she came to bay in the dry bed of a river. Dismounting from my horse, J commenced load- ing, but before this was accomplished she was off once more. I followed her, putting on my caps as I rode, and coming up alongside, I made a fine shot from the saddle, firing at the gallop. The ball entered some- where near her heart. On receiving this shot she reeled about, while torrents of blood streamed from her mouth and wounds, and presently she rolled over and expired, 220 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. uttering a shrill screaming sound as she died, which rhinoceroses invariably do while in the agonies of death, The chase had led me close in along the northern base of a lofty detached mountain, the highest in all that country. This mountain is called by the Bechuanas the Mountain of the Eagles. The eland which I had shot in the morning lay somewhere to the southward of this mountain, but far in the level forest. Having rounded the mountain, I began to recognize the ground, and presently I had the satisfaction to behold a few vultures soaring over the forest in advance, and, on proceeding a short distance further, large groups of these birds were seated on the gray and weather-beaten branches of the loftiest old trees of the forest. This was a certain sign that the eland was not far distant; and on raising my voice and loudly calling on the name of Carollus, I was.instantly answered by that individ- ual, who, -heedless of his master’s fate, was actively employed in cooking for himself a choice steak from the dainty rump of the eland. That night I slept be- neath the blue and starry canopy pf heaven. My sleep was light and sweet, and no rude dreams or hankering. cares disturbed the equanimity of my repose. THE HORN OF THE RHINOCEROS. 221 CHAPTER XII. My Hottentots object to advance further into the Interior— A Boar Hunt—We march through a charming Country—The Mountain Pass of Sesetabie—A Lion and Lioness inspect my Cattle, and the Lion pays for peeping—Hungry Hyenas sup upon the Cattle Furniture— The Camelopard — Description of its Habits— Booby, a Bechuana Kraal—Gun Medicine—Disastrous Finale to an Incantation—Native Conspiracy to prevent my further Progress. Ar an early hour on the 7th we arose, and, having loaded the pack-horse with a burden of flesh and fat, I dispatched one of the Baquaines with him to camp. Carollus and I then rode for the rhinoceros to secure the horn. On nearing the carcass, a noble bull buffalo stood within thirty yards of me, but I had omitted to put on my caps. Lions had consumed a large part of the rhinoceros, and had sneaked off on hearing us ap- proach, leaving, as is usual, matted locks from their shaggy gray manes sticking on the broken points of the projecting ribs. My dogs, on scenting them, ran bark ing angrily in the direction which the lions had helt, springing up into the air with their hair bristling alorg their backs. With considerable difficulty we separates the horn of the muchocho from the skin by means of a long, sharp knife. It was nearly three feet in length, and measured almost a foot in diameter at the base. This being accomplished, we returned to camp. Here I found that Isaac had not been idle in forwarding his own views. I at once saw that my followers had some- thing unusual on their minds; blackness and dismay were plainly written on every countenance. I had 222 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. scarcely seated myself beside the fire, when Isaac ap. proached me with a slow, funereal step, and horror de- picted in his face, and asked me if I had heard the news. I replied, What news? He went on to state that on the preceding evening two men of the Baman- gwato tribe had passed my wagons on their way to Bakatla, to warn that tribe of the on-coming of the cruel and warlike Matabili (whose powerful chief, Moselekatse, has been so ably described in the pages of my fellow-sportsman, Captain Harris). These they represented as having a few days previously attacked and plundered various Bechuana tribes to the north- ward, and that they were now advancing by rapid marches to devastate the country and murder the in- habitants of these parts. This I at once knew to be a fabrication to prevent my penetrating further, and I laughed at Isaac and told him he had dreamed it; to which he replied, “Yes, you will not listen to my advice when you are warned of danger, but both you and your men will one day ac- knowledge the truth of my forebodings.” I had con- siderable difficulty in calming the minds of my follow- ers, and prevailing on them to proceed further with me. In the afternoon we continued our journey to the northward, through a country of increasing loveliness. Beautifully wooded hills and valleys, captivating to the sportsman’s eye, stretched away on every side, with rivulets of crystal waters in the valleys and the spoor of large game very abundant. On the march my dogs dashed up the wind, and in two minutes the peaceful forest was disturbed by their united voices, angrily barking around some animal which they had brought to bay. Snatching up my rifle, I rushed to the scene of conflict, and found them actively baying a fierce and BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. 223 grisly boar, whose foaming jaws were adorned with a pair of tusks:so enormous as to resemble horns, each of them being upward of a foot in length. It was some time before I could obtain a clear shot, owing to the eagerness of my dogs; but at length an opening oc- curred, when I dropped the grim boar with a bullet in the heart. Night had scarcely set in when lions com- menced to roar in concert on every side of us, and con- tinued their deep and awful music until the sun rose next day. On the 8th we performed a short march before break- fast, halting beside a stream of delicious water. In the afternoon we resumed our march, and halted at sun- down. beside the broad and sandy bed of a periodical river, through which ran a crystal stream. On the 9th we continued our march through a love- ly and romantic country, steering for Sesetabie, an extremely bold and picturesque pass, in the lofty mountains in which the “‘Kouloubeng” or “river of wild boars,” a tributary to the Ngotwani, takes its rise. As the wagons proceeded, I walked in advance with my rifle, and presently brought down a sassayby. While following a herd of pallahs, the wagons got ahead of me; and on overtaking them, I found them drawn up beside a sweet little rocky river, at a short distance from the mountain pass, which from its ap- pearance we expected would prove a barrier to our fur- ther progress. -I ascended a lofty mountain range to the westward of the pass. Here I fell in with large colonies of bab- oons and a few klipspringers. I also saw for the first time green parrots and gray squirrels. A number of interesting birds, possessing melodious voices, and plu- mage more or less gaudy, adorned the groves and for- 224 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. ests since I had crossed the range of the Kurrichane Mountains; but, throughout my career in the forests of the interior, my attention was necessarily so taken up with the pursuit of larger, and to me more interest- ing objects of the chase, that I could rarely bestow upon the feathered creation more than a short and pase- ing glance of admiration. Having ascended to the summit of the highest mountain of the chain, I obtain- ed a glorious view of the surrounding country. It was truly a fair and boundless prospect ; beautifully wood- ed plains and mountains stretched away on every side to an amazing distance, until the vision was lost among the faint blue outlines of the distant mountain ranges, Throughout all this country, and vast tracts beyond, Thad the satisfaction to reflect that a never-ending suc- cession of herds of every species of noble game which the hunter need desire pastured there in undisturbed security ; and as I gazed, I felt that it was all my own, and that I at length possessed the undisputed sway over a forest, in comparison with which the tame and herded narrow bounds of the wealthiest European sportsman sink into utter insignificance. The succeeding day we entered the gorge, and wound along the margin of the stream, which danced and sparkled down its abrupt and rocky channel, form- ing a pleasing succession of babbling streams and foam- ing waterfalls. As we advanced further up the gorge the path became extremely contracted, there being barely sufficient room to admit of the wagons passing between the steep and rocky brink of the stream, and the rugged base of the lofty, inaccessible mountain which towered on our left. On the opposite side, the mountain forming the eastern bulwark of the pass rose precipitately from the water’s edge, presenting an im- BOLDNESS OF A LION AND LIONESS. 225 passable barrier. It was a wild and lonely glen, hith- erto untrodden save by the wild denizens of the forests, which from time immemorial had roamed these soli tudes. Large stones and masses of granite rock ob- structed our progress, and several hours were occupied in rolling these to one side before we could venture to bring on the wagons. The next morning was cold and windy, and I lay in my wagon longer than usual. My Hottentots had thought proper to leave their charge, and go in quest of honey under the guidance of a garrulous honey-bird. I had lain about twenty minutes in my wagon after they had all started, and was occupied in reading a book, when suddenly I heard the oxen come trotting along in front of the wagons, as: if sharply driven. On raising my head from my pillow, I perceived a lioness following within twenty yards of them, and next mo- ment her mate, a venerable-looking lion, with a shag- gy mane which swept the ground, appeared in the yel- low grass in front of the oxen, waiting for her to put them to flight. The plot had evidently been precon- certed between them, this being the usual manner in which the lion attacks the buffaloes. Fortunately, the oxen would not run for them, and the lions seemed surprised at the confidence of their game. On spring- ing to my feet and shouting to them, they joined one another, and stood together beneath a shady tree with- in a hundred and twenty yards of the wagons. My horses were pasturing at a short distance from the li- ons, feeding toward me, and on these they seemed now to meditate an attack, their attention being divided be- tween the horses and myself. In such a position of affairs, I considered it high time to give these bold in- truders a hint whose cattle they were so carefully: herd- K2 226 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. ing. Snatching up my two-grooved rifle, which at all times hung loaded in my wagon, I at once ran forward under cover of a convenient bushy tree which inter- vened, and on gaining this bush I was within seventy yards of the lions. Here a forked branch afforded an admirable rest. I placed my rifle in the fork, and, taking the old lion low, I let fly, hitting him in the shoulder; the two then wheeled about, and, bounding forward with angry growls, disappeared among the trees. From the cool state I was in when I fired, and the steady aim which the forked branch had afforded me, I felt convinced that the lion, if not dead, must be mortally wounded, but I prudently resolved not to pro- ceed in quest of him alone. Presently some of my men, who had gone to the carcass of a buffalo I had slain the previous day, returned, bringing the dogs; and, having informed them of what had happened, I proceeded to take up the spoor of the wounded lion. On reaching the spot where the lions had stood, my dogs at once commenced barking angrily and looking sharply around in every direction, their hair bristling on their backs. I at once discovered blood, which in- creased as I proceeded from small red drops to large frothy blotches; and before advancing two hundred yards, on approaching a dense green bush, my dogs, which led the way, sprang suddenly to one side, bark- ing with great vehemence. By this I knew that the lion was dead, and, on cautiously rounding the bush, taking care at the same time to give it a wide berth, I had the satisfaction to behold a princely lion stretched lifeless on the ground. He was in the prime of life, having fine sharp teeth ; and it being now the dead of winter, he carried the most luxuriant coat of hair, the A DENSE JUNGLE. 227 rankness of his flowing mane exceeding in beauty any thing I had hitherto seen. I considered myself ex- tremely fortunate in having secured so noble a speci- men of the lion with so little danger, and I at once set men to work to unrobe him, which they were not long in accomplishing. About mid-day we inspanned, and trekked on till sun- down through a country the most wild and primitive that can be conceived. , We proceeded under the guid- ance of two Bechuanas, who had joined us on the pre- ceding day, and were proceeding to Booby. The two Baquaines who had accompanied me from Bakatla had forsaken my standard after I had shot the bull eland, so liberal a supply of flesh being far too powerful a temptation to admit of their proceeding beyond it. On gaining the neck of the mountain pass, our march for a few miles wound through beautifully-wooded grassy hills, after which we descended into a rugged and dense- ly-wooded valley, intersected with deep water-courses which threatened momentarily the destruction of my axle-trees. So dense was the jungle that we were obliged repeatedly to halt the wagons, and cut out a pathway with our axes before they could advance. Emerging from this valley, we entered upon a more level country, still, however, densely covered with for- est-trees and bushes in endless variety. Here water was very abundant. We crossed several streams and marshes whose margins were a mass of the spoor of wild animals, that of rhinoceros, buffalo, and camelo- pard being most abundant. At one stream the fresh spoor of a troop of lions was deeply imprinted in the wet sand. Although Iam now acquainted with the native names of a number of the trees of the African forests, yet of 228 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. their scientific names I am utterly ignorant. The shoulders and upper ridges of the mountains through- out all that country are profusely adorned with the graceful sandal-wood tree, famed on account of the delicious perfume of its timber. The leaf of this tree emits at every season of the year a powerful and fra. grant perfume, which is increased by bruising the leaves in the hand. Its leaf is small, of a light silvery-gray color, which is strongly contrasted by the dark and dense ever-green foliage of the moopooroo-tree, which also adorns the upper ridges of the mountain ranges. This beautiful tree is interesting, as producing the most delicious and serviceable fruit that I have met with throughout those distant parts, the poorer natives subsisting upon it for several months, during which it continues in season. The moopooroo is of the size and shape of a very large olive. It is at first green, but, gradually ripening, like the Indian mango, it becomes beautifully striped with yellow, and when perfectly ripe its color is the deepest orange. The fruit is sweet and mealy, similar to the date, and contains a small brown seed. It covers the branches, and when ripe the gold- en fruit beautifully contrasts with the dark green leaves of the tree which bears it. Besides the moopooroo, a great variety of fruits are met with throughout these mountains and forests, all of which are known to, and gathered by, the natives. I must, however, forego a description of them, as it would swell these pages to undue bounds. Throughout the densely-wooded dells and hollows of the mountains the rosewood-tree occurs, of considerable size and in great abundance. Throughout the night we were beset by a daring troop of hyenas, which, notwithstanding the vigilance of my dogs, consumed a part of my buffalo trek-tow and THE GIRAFFE. 229 also a number of straps from off the yokes. The dogs kept up a loud and incessant barking: until the day dawned, when I shot one of the hyenas, and the rest made off. On the 11th we were in the yoke soon after day- break. It was a bitter cold morning, ice a quarter of an inch in thickness covering the pools of water. We were now clear of the extensive mountain ranges through which our road had wound since leaving Ba- katla, and were approaching toward the southeastern limits of the great Kalahari desert, on whose borders Booby is situated. We continued our march, steering northwest, in which direction the distant blue hills (pointed out to me as the position of Booby) shot ab- ruptly above the unvaried sameness of the intervening forest scenery. To the west, one eternal ocean-like expanse of gray forest stretched away in a level and unbroken plain, terminated only by the far horizon. Having performed a march of three hours, we crossed. a small stream, where I outspanned to breakfast. This day was to me rather a memorable one, as the first on which I saw and slew the lofty, graceful-look- ing giraffe or camelopard, with which, during many years of my life, I had longed to form an acquaint- ance.* * These gigantic and exquisitely beautiful animals, which are admi- rably formed by nature to adorn the fair forests that clothe the bound- less plains of the interior, are widely distributed throughout the inte rior of Southern Africa, but are nowhere to be met with in great num bers. In countries unmolested by the intrusive foot of man, the gi- raffe is found generally ‘in herds varying from twelve to sixteen; but I have nut unfrequently met with herds containing thirty individuals, and on one occasion I counted forty together; this, however, was owing to chance, and about sixteen may be reckoned as the average number ofa herd. These herds are composed of giraffes of various sizes, from the young giraffe of nine or ten feet in height, to the dark chestnut- colored old bull of the herd, whose exalted head towers above his com- 230 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA Although we had now been traveling many days through the country of the giraffe, and had marched panions, generally attaining to a height of upward of eighteen feet. The females are of. lower stature and more delicately formed than the males, their height averaging from sixteen to seventeen feet. Some writers have discovered ugliness and a want of grace in the giraffe, but I consider that he is one of the most strikingly beautiful animals in the creation; and when a herd of them is seen scattered through a grove of the picturesque parasol-topped acacias which adorn their native plains, and on whose uppermost shoots they are enabled to browse by the colossal height with which nature has so admirably endowed them, he must indeed be slow of conception who fails to discover both grace and dignity in all their movements. There can be no doubt that every animal is seen to the greatest advantage in the haunts which nature destined him to adorn, and among the various living creatures which beautify this fair creation I have often traced a remarkable resem- blance between the animal and the general appearance of the locality in which it.is found. This I first remarked at an early period of my life, when entomology occupied a part of my attention. No person fol- lowing this interesting pursuit can fail to observe the extraordinary likeness which insects bear to the various abodes in which they are met with. Thus, among the long green grass we find a variety of long green insects, whose legs and antenne so resemble the shoots emana- ting from the stalks of the grass that it requires a practiced eye to dis- tinguish them. Throughout sandy districts varieties of insects are met with of a color similar to the sand which they inhabit. Among the green leaves of the various trees of the forest innumerable leaf-colored insects are to be found; while, closely adhering to the rough gray bark of these forest-trees, we observe beautifully-colored gray-looking moths of various patterns, yet altogether so resembling the bark as to bé invis- ible to the passing observer. In like manner, among quadrupeds I have traced a corresponding analogy, for, even in the case of the stupendous elephant, the ashy color of his hide so corresponds with the general ap- pearance of the gray thorny jungles which he frequents throughout the day, that a person unaccustomed to hunting elephants, standing on a commanding situation, might look down upon a herd and fail to detect their presence. And further, in the case of the giraffe, which is inva- riably met with among venerable forests, where innumerable blasted. and weather-beaten trunks and stems occur, I have repeatedly heen in doubt as to the presence of a troop of them until I had recourse to my spy-glass; and on referring the case to my savage attendants, I have known even their optics to fail, at one time mistaking these dilapidated tranks for camelopards, and again confounding real camelopards with these aged veterans of the forest. A GIRAFFE CHASE. 231 through forests in which their spoor was abundant, our eyes had not yet been gifted with a sight of “ Tootla” himself; it was therefore with indescribable pleasure that, on the evening of the 11th, I beheld a troop of these interesting animals. Our breakfast being finished, I resumed my journey through an endless gray forest of cameel-dorn and other trees, the country slightly undulating and grass abund- ant. A little before the sun went down my driver re- marked to me, “I was just going to say, sir, that that old tree was a camelopard.” On looking where he pointed, I saw that the old tree was indeed a camelo- pard, and, on casting my eyes a little to the right, I be- held a troop of them standing looking at us, their heads actually towering above the trees of the forest. It was imprudent to commence a chase at such a late hour, especially in a country of so level a character, where the chances were against my being able to regain my wagons that night. I, however, resolved to chance ev- ery thing; and directing my men to catch and saddle Colesberg, I proceeded in haste to buckle on my shoot- ing-belt and spurs, and in two minutes I was in the saddle. The giraffes stood looking at the wagons un- til I was within sixty yards of them, when, galloping round a thick bushy tree, under cover of which I had ridden, I suddenly beheld a sight the most astounding that a sportsman’s eye can encounter. Before me stood a troop of ten colossal giraffes, the majority of which were from seventeen to eighteen feet high. On behold- ing me they at once made off, twisting their long tails over their backs, making a loud switching noise with them, and cantered along at an easy pace, which, how- ever, obliged Colesberg to put his best foot foremost to keep up with them. 232 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. The sensations which I felt on this occasion were different from any thing that I had before experienced during a long sporting career. My senses were so ab- sorbed by the wondrous and beautiful sight before me that I rode along like one entranced, and felt inclined to disbelieve that I was hunting living things of this world. 'The ground was firm and favorable for riding. At every stride I gained upon the giraffes, and after a short burst at a swinging gallop I was in the middle of them, and turned the finest cow out of the herd. On finding herself driven from her comrades and hotly pursued, she increased her pace, and cantered along with tremendous strides, clearing an amazing extent of ground at every bound; while her neck and breast, coming in contact with the dead old branches of the trees, were continually strewing them in my path. In a few minutes I was riding within five yards of her stern, and, firing at the gallop, I sent a bullet into her back. Increasing my pace, I next rode alongside, and, placing the muzzle of my rifle within a few feet of her, I fired my second shot behind the shoulder; the ball, however, seemed to have little effect. I then placed myself directly in front, when she came to a walk. Dismounting, I hastily loaded both barrels, putting in double charges of powder. Before this was accomplish- ed she was off at a canter. In a short time I brought her to a stand in the dry bed of a water-course, where I fired at fifteen yards, aiming where I thought the heart lay, upon which she again made off. Having loaded, I followed, and had very nearly lost her; she had turned abruptly to the left, and was far out of sight among the trees. Once more I brought her to a stand, and dismounted from my horse. There we stood together alone in the wild wood. I gazed in PERFUME EMITTED BY THE GIRAFFE, 233 wonder at her extreme beauty, while her soft dark eye, with its silky fringe, looked down imploringly at me, and I really felt a pang of sorrow in this moment of triumph for the blood I was shedding. Pointing my rifle toward the skies, I sent a bullet through her neck. On receiving it, she reared high on her hind legs, and fell backward with a heavy crash, making the earth shake around her. A thick stream of dark blood spout- ed out from the wound, her colossal limbs quivered for a moment, and she expired. T had little time to contemplate the prize I had won. Night was fast setting in, and it was very questionable if I should succeed in regaining my wagons; so, hav- ing cut off the tail of the giraffe, which was adorned with a bushy tuft of flowing black hair, I took “ one last fond look,” and rode hard for the spoor of the wag- ons, which I succeeded in reaching just as it was dark. No pen nor words can convey to a sportsman what. it is to ride in the midst of a troop of gigantic giraffes: it must be experienced to be understood. ‘They emit- ted a powerful perfume, which in the chase came hot in my face, reminding me of the smell of a hive of heather honey in September. The greater part of this chase led through bushes of the wait-a-bit thorn of the most virulent description, which covered my legs and arms with blood long before I had killed the giraffe. I rode as usual in the kilt, with my arms bare to my shoulder. It was Chapelpark of Badenoch’s old gray kilt, but in this chase it received a death blow which it never afterward recovered. On the 12th we performed two long marches through thickly-wooded plains, the spoor of camelopard being extremely abundant. On the 13th we cast loose the catile at dawn of day. Breakfast being fuuished, we 234. ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. inspanned, and having proceeded about eight miles through the forest, steering for a range of rocky mount- ains, we reached a gorge in the same. Here we cross- ed a small river, and, having followed its banks about three miles, reached Booby, a residence of Bechuanas, being a branch of the tribe of the Baquaines, and gov- _ erned by a subordinate chief, who was then absent on a visit. I was, however, welcomed by his nephew, named Caachy, a man of pleasing exterior and prepos- sessing manners, who shortly afterward became, and now is, chief of that tribe. As the manner in which Caachy succeeded to the chieftainship was peculiar, I may here relate the cir- cumstances attending it. Throughout all the Bechu- ana tribes an absurd belief prevails in witchcraft and supernatural agencies of every kind. They also be- lieve that for every transaction there is a medicine which will enable the possessor to succeed in his object. Thus they think those among themselves who work in iron do so under the power of medicine. Their rain- makers, by the power of their medicines, can propitiate the friendly clouds during the protracted droughts of summer. They have medicines to protect them from the lightning’s stroke, from the deadly bite of the viper, and from the fatal spring of the lion. They further believe that there is a medicine for guns, the posses- sion of which will cause the gun to shoot well, and like- wise one for the gunpowder, which will give it strength. During my visit to Booby I obtained from the na- tives some interesting specimens of native arms and other curiosities, for which they required gunpowder, their chief having in his possession one or two muskets. When the chief and his men proceeded to use my pow- der, they missed all they fired at; the Bechuana mode GUNPOWDER MEDICINE. 235 of firing being to withdraw the face from the gun, from a natural impulse of fear, before drawing the trigger, and to look back over the left shoulder instead of at the animal they expect to kill. The cause of their missing they at once ascribed to the powder, which they affirmed required medicine. Accordingly, the chief and all the long-headed men in Booby assembled in the forum; and having placed the unworthy gun- powder upon a large kaross, they all sat round it, and commenced a variety of ceremonies and incantations with a view of imparting to it that power which they considered it had lost. At length some wiseacre among. the soothsayers informed the king that the presence of fire was indispensable on the occasion. Fire was ac- cordingly introduced along with the other medicines, and a censer of hot embers was passed frequently over the powder. Suddenly, however, an unlucky spark sprang from the censer into the heap of powder, which of course instantly exploded, and, the quantity being very considerable, the Booby men and their chief were blown heels over head on every side—several of the party, and among others the chief, being so severely burned that they shortly died. So much for Bechuana medicines. The kraal of Booby is encompassed on three sides by rocky-hills, which to their summits are densely clad with sandal-wood trees. The sides of these mountains in parts are extremely precipitous, and are the abodes of baboons and klipspringers. On the march, as we approached Booby, I took my rifle and ascended to the base of one of these precipices, where I shot two im- mense baboons. One of them was sitting on the shelf of a rock very high above me; and on receiving the shot, he fell about a hundred feet without a break. The valleys between the mountains are extensively 236 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. cultivated by the women, as also a large level piece of ground to the northeastward of the kraal. The cos- tume of this tribe was the same I have already de. scribed as worn by the Bechuanas; but I remarked that they used the atrocious mixture of red clay and grease more freely than their neighbors. The Booby men flocked around my wagons, evidently much grat ified with so novel a sight, and continued with me un- til nightfall. Shortly after I reached Booby a party of Baquaines arrived from Sichely. They had beer. sent to endeavor to dissuade me from visiting Baman gwato, and to inform me that Sichely had ivory and karosses, with which to purchase all my guns; and that, above all, he wished me to promise to reserve my big Dutch rifle for him. I informed these men that I was determined to visit Sicomy, but that I would keep the Dutch rifle for their chief, as he requested it. Having informed Caachy that I intended to march next day, he expressed surprise, and said I made his heart sore. That evening there was a meeting of all the wise men in Booby to consult how I could best be prevented from journeying on to Bamangwato. On the morning of the 14th I felt far from well, probably having drunk too much of Caachy’s beer on the preced- ing evening. Before I was inclined to turn out, the regent with all his great men were standing thick around my wagons. I pretended to be asleep; so they kindled fires, around which they squatted. Presently I arose, and gave the regent his breakfast. I told him that I wished him to send men along with me to Ba- mangwato. He replied that there was war in that country, and that he was afraid of Moselekatse. I then said that, though he would not give me men, I possessed medicine which would enable me to discover the way TREACHERY OF CAACHY. 237 without his assistance; and I informed him that, if he persisted in withholding guides, I should inform Sicomy, the great and paramount chief of Bamangwato, that they endeavored to prevent white men from visiting his domains. Upon this Caachy changed his story, and said that four men should accompany me to Baman- gwato, and return with me. His plan, however, was, that these men should guide me in a wrong direction ; and pretending that the waters had failed, they were eventually to lead me to Sichely, who resided to the eastward of Booby. This being arranged, I gave Caachy some presents, and requested him to take charge of my buffalo and other heads until my return, which he promised to do, and ordered men to bear them directly to his kraal. About mid-day we inspanned and left Booby, accom- panied by nearly the whole tribe, every man carrying | two or three assagais and a battle-ax. They followed us in the hope that I would shoot large game for them. The guides at first held northeast ; but presently draw- ing off that course and steering due east, I halted, and said that was not the road-to Bamangwato. They re- plied, they held that course on account of water. I then directed them to place an assagai on the ground with its head pointing to Bamangwato. Thereupon the savages laid down one of their assagais, and, having pretended for some minutes to be discussing among themselves the exact position of Bamangwato, they ended by pointing it due east, declaring that Baman- gwato lay in that direction. - I told them that I had a needle in my pocket which I had rubbed with medicine, by which I could tell if their spear pointed to Sicomy’s country. Knowing that Bamangwato lay a little to the east of north, I said that by turning the needle three 238 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. times round my left wrist it would point a little to the left-hand side of the country I required. On hearing this, the savages looked at one another with surprise, and pressed round me to see if my needle possessed the power I represented. Slipping my fingers into my shooting-belt, I then pulled out my pocket compass, and, passing it three times round my left wrist with the utmost gravity, I whistled shrilly ; and on opening the compass, I placed it on the ground before them. Snatching one of their assagais, I placed it Beside the compass a little to the east of north, and told them that it was there Bamangwato lay. They were struck with astonishment, and at once considered me as working by supernatural agency. Having done this, I inquired of the guides if they would lead me to waters in that direction. They all shouted that that was the desert, and that no man had ever found water there. Having said this, they all turned right about, and, retreating for about two hund- red yards, they squatted on the ground. Isaac and I then approached them; but they sat in silence, and looked on the ground. I asked them why they all sat thus. They answered that they would proceed no fur- ther with me. I replied that I was happy to hear it, and that I could find the way better without them. I returned to my wagons, and ordered my rhen to turn about and retrace their steps to the nearest water. The savages then requested me to halt and speak with them. I told them to go home to their captain, as their presence troubled me; and having proceeded a few hundred yards, I encamped beside a pool of water. It was plain to me that Isaac, my interpreter, was in league with the Baquaines in their designs against me; but asI did not then intend to part with him, be- A NIGHT OF ANXIETY. 239 cause his presence gave confidence to my people, I deemed it best to pretend that I believed him to be sincere. My flesh being exhausted, I resolved to halt for a day for the purpose of hunting before proceeding further ; and having obtained a good supply, to steer through the forests by compass a little to the east of north, and to search for water with my horses in ad- vance of the wagons. I felt poorly in health, and was much troubled in mind. My situation was by no means an enviable one. I was far in the interior of Africa, alone and friendless, surrounded by a tribe of men who would do any thing to prevent my attaining my object; but fear restrained them from using violence. What I most dreaded was their stealing my oxen or horses, which they could easily accomplish, as I was encamped in a thick forest; my men also were faint-hearted, and anxious to return toward home. That night I slept little, from vexation and anxiety. The whole tribe of the Booby men lay encamped beside us. They lay on the ground around a nunttker of fires, with a hedge of thorny bushes placed in a semicircle to windward of each party. After breakfast I rode east to hunt, accompanied by Kleinboy leading a pack-horse ; about thirty of the Bechuanas followed us in the hope of flesh. Having proceeded about two miles, I per- ceived a large herd of blue wildebeests and zebras. I signed to the Bechuanas to lie down, and then rode slowly forward as if to pass to leeward of the herd. Having probably never before seen a horseman, they allowed me to approach within a hundred yards, when I sprang from my horse, and with my first barrel drop- ped a fat blue wildebeest. ‘The Bechuanas then rushed forward, but I beckoned to them to lie down. Having loaded, I galloped in pursuit of the troop, and after rid- 240 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. ing a short distance hard in their dusty wake, through a thinly-wooded part of the forest, I pulled up and was on my feet just as the leading cow wheeled about. I fired right and left, and shot two fat old cows. Both ran a short distance and fell. The Bechuanas now came up with Kleinboy, greatly delighted at my suc- cess. I presented them with the bull and one of the cows for their chief, and, having placed the remaining cow upon my pack-horse, we returned to camp. Here I found Caachy with all his retinue: they had come out to endeavor by cunning speaking to lead me astray. Having saluted Caachy, I said that I had yes- terday promised to kill some game for him, and that I had now fulfilled my word, upon which he thanked me. I then remarked that his men did not lead me as Dr. Livingstone had told me to ride; to which he replied that the road was circuitous, and that they led me so on account of water. At length he had almost per- suaded me to follow his guides, but I said I would rest till to-morrow, having determined that, as I had no friend whom I might consult, I would revolve the sub- ject in my mind that night, and determine finally in the morning. Caachy then drank coffee with me and departed. In the evening I inquired of the guides con- cerning the waters and the distances between them. They replied that the first water was a moderate day’s journey, but after that I must ride more than two days without water: they also persevered in pointing to the east as my course. I now plainly saw that their in- tention was to lead me far astray, and finally to bring me to Sichely, their own paramount chief. I therefore resolved to adhere to my first resolution of steering my own course by the compass, but I kept this intention secret, fearing that they might steal some of my oxen. MARCH FOR BAMANGWATO. 241 CHAPTER XIII The Guides try to mislead me—The Cattle and Horses dying: from Thirst—Search for Water—Melancholy Anticipations—Directed to a Pool by the Flight of Birds — Chase and kill a Giraffe —Wandering Bechuanas point out my right Course — Miserable Condition of the Natives—Game Pitfalls — Mimosa Grove smashed by Elephants—A . Rhinoceros charges me — Abundance of large Game —Lost in the Forest. On the morning of the 16th a large party of Caachy’s men were still encamped beside us, and were under the impression that they had succeeded in prevailing upon me to follow them. Having filled all my water-casks, I ordered my men to inspan, the. Bechuanas cracking their jokes and fancying that I should ride east as they led ;.but, to: their astonishment, having inspanned, I told them that they had better all return to their cap- . tains, as I would shoot: no more game for them, and I then ordered my men to ride for a conspicuous tree in the distance, bearing N.N.E. The Bechuanas sat still for some time to see how I would steer, and presently they shouldered their assagais and followed in our wake. This was a bold step on my part: the.country looked very unlikely for water, and the Bechuanas swore that there was none for seven days’ journey in that direc- tion. Our march lay through a boundless forest, with no hill or landmark to give me an idea where to search for water. Fortune, however, followed me here as usual: if I had lived all my life in the country, I could not have taken a more direct course for the spot I wish- ed to reach. After we bad proceeded some miles, a Vou. I.—L 242 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. rising ground arose in our path, from the summit of which I fancied that a view might be obtained of the country in advance. This view only served to damp my hopes, the prospect exhibiting one slightly undu- lating, ocean-like expanse of forest and dense thorny jungles. We halted for a few minutes to breathe the oxen, when the Bechuanas all came up, and sat down on the ground beside us. I asked them why they had not gone home as Thad told them. They replied that they followed me because they were afraid that Ishould lose . myself and my oxen. We held on, steering by compass N.N.E. -All the Bechuanas now forsook me except the four ill-favored men whom Caaehy had pointed out to me as my guides. These four, contrary to my expecta- tions, followed in our wake at some distance. I walk- ed a hundred. yards in advance of the wagons with my compass in my hand, having ordered the men to follow my footsteps. After traveling for several hours the coun- try became more open, and presently we entered upon a wide tract that had been recenty. burned by the Ba- walahari, or wild inhabitants of the desert... Here the trees and bushes stood scorched and burned, and there was not a blade of grass to cheer the eye—blackness and ashes stretched away on every side wherever I turned my anxious glance. I felt’ my heart sink with- in me as I beheld in dim perspective my famished and thirsty oxen returning some days hence over this hope- less desert, all my endeavors to find water having fail- ed, and all my bright hopes of elephant-hunting dashed and crowned with bitter disappointment: it was, in- deed,.a cheerless prospect. I had no friend to.comfort or advise me, and I could hear my men behind me grumbling, and swearing that they would return home, GLOOMY ANTICIPATIONS, 243 the guides, who had now come up, asking them why they followed me to destruction. At length we reached the further side of this dreary waste of ashes, but now an equally cheerless prospect was before me. We entered a vast forest, gray with extreme age, and so thick that we could not see forty yards in advance. We were obliged occasionally to halt the wagons and cut down trees and branches to admit of their passing; and,.to make matters still worse, the country had become extremely heavy, the wagons sink- ing deep in soft sand. My men began to show a mu- tinous spirit by expressing their opinions aloud in my presence. I remonstrated with them, and told them that, if I did not bring them to water next day before the-sun was under, they might turn the oxen on their. spoor. We continued our mareh through this dense forest until nightfall, when I halted for the night beside a wide-spreading tree: here I cast my oxen loose for an hour, and then secured them on the yokes by moon- light. I felt very sad and unhappy in my mind, for I con- sidered that the chances were against me, and I shud- dered at the idea of returning to the colony, after com- ing so very far, without shooting or even seeing what my heart most ardently desired, viz., a wild bull ele- phant free in his native jungle. I took some wine, and, coming to the fire which the men had kindled for the night beneath a magnificent old cameel-dorn tree, I affected great cheerfulness and contentment, and, laugh- ing at the four Bechuanas, I told them that I was not a child that they should lead me astray, but that I was an old warrior and a eunning hunter, and could find my way in strange lands. I laughed, but it was the laugh of despair, for I expected that next evening they 244 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. would be laughing at me, on seeing me compelled to retrace my steps. One of the greatest difficulties that presented itself was, that, if I rode in advance to search for water, it would be almost impossible to find my way back to the wagons through that vast and trackless forest. Iwent to bed, but tried in vain to sleep. Care arid anxiety kept me awake until a little before morn- ing, when I fell asleep for a short time, and dreamed that I had ridden in advance and found water. Day dawned, and I awoke in sorrow. -My hopes were like a flickering flame; care sat upon my brow. I cast loose my horses and oxen, and prepared some breakfast; I then directed my men to catch “ The Cow” and “ Coles- berg,” and give them some corn. I asked the guides if they could lead me to water in a northerly direction, when they replied that no man ever found water in the desert. Idid not talk more with them, but ordered my men to remain quiet during the day and listen for shots, lest I should lose my way in returning; and having given them ammunition to reply, I saddled up and held N.N.E. through thick forests, accompanied by Mein- boy. The ground was heavy, being soft sand, and the grass grew at intervals in detached bunches. We rode on without a break or a change, and found no spoor of wild animals to give me hope. I saw one-duiker, but these antelopes are met with in the desert, and are in- dependent. of water. At last we reached a more open part of the forest, and, emerging from the thicket, I perceived a troop of six or eight beautiful giraffes standing looking at us about two hundred yards to my right; but this was no time to give them chase, which I felt very much in- clined to do. I allowed them to depart in peace, and continued my search for water. In this open glade I ~ HUNT FOR WATER. 245 found two or three vleys that had once contained a little water, but they were now hard and dry. Re-entering the dense forest, we held one point more to the east, and rode on as before. For miles we continued our search, until my hopes sank to a very low ebb; and Kleinboy swore that we should never regain the wag- ons. At length I perceived a sassayby walking before me: this antelope drinks every day; “ fresh vigor with the hope returned.” I once more pressed forward and cantered along, heedless of the distance which already intervened between me and my camp and the remon- strances of my attendant, who at last reined up his jad- ed steed, and said that he would not follow me further to my own destruction. I then pointed to the top of a distant gray tree that stretched its bare and weather- beaten branches above the heads of its surrounding comrades, and said that, if we saw nothing to give us hope :when we reached that tree, I would abandon the search, and hunt during that season in Sichely’s mount- ains to the east of Booby. But fate had ordained that I should penetrate fur- ther into the interior of Africa, and before I reached the old gray tree I observed a small flight of Namaqua par- tridges flying across my path in a westerly direction. It was impossible to tell, until I should see a second flock of these, flying at a different angle, whether the first flock had come from or were going to water. For this I accordingly watched, nor watched long in vain. A considerable distance ahead of me I detected a second flight of these birds likewise flying westerly ; and it was evident, from their inclination, that they held for the same point as the first had done. Shortly afterward the first flight rettuned, flying high above our heads, ut- tering their soft, melodious cry of “pretty dear, pretty 246 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. dear.” 1 then rode in the direction from which the birds had come, and before proceeding far we discover. ed a slight hollow running north and south. This I determined to follow, and presently I discovered fresh spoor of a rhinoceros: this was a certain sign that water was somewhere not very distant. Once more my dying hopes revived. I looked north at the glorious sky, which on this particular day was quite different from any thing I had beheld for months Tt was like one of those glorious days when the bright blue sky in my own dark land is seen through ten thou- sand joyous fleecy clouds, and all nature seems to strive in its sunny hour to make poor unhappy man forget his cares and sorrows. I took it as a favorable omen, and, stirring my good and lively steed, I cantered along the glade. The hollow took a turn, on rounding which I perceived that I was in an elevated part of the forest ; and I, for the first time, obtained a distant view of the surrounding scenery. Far as the eye could strain, it was all forest without a break; but there was now an undulating country before me, instead of the hopeless level through which I had come. I felt certain of suc- cess. We soon discovered vleys that had recently con- tained water, and at last a large pool of excellent water, enough to supply my cattle for several days. This was to me a joyous moment; it was a grand step toward attaining my object, and, as my difficulties had seemed to increase, my wish and determination to overcome them had become stronger. I knew that, whether I reached Bamangwato or not, if I could now only man- age to travel north about eight days’ joumney I should fall in with elephants. I was extremely fortunate in regaining my wagons, which I did without a turn in my course. On reach- DECEPTION OF THE GUIDES. 247 ing them I at first pretended not to have discovered water; and I said to the guides, “There is nothing but dense wood in this country ; can you not show me water? my oxen will die.’ They replied that they lew the country. from infancy, and that if I wanted water I must travel till sunset, steering south of east. I then surprised them by saying, “ Now I see that you wish to lead me astray ; for I have seen abundance of water, and I will find my way to Bamangwato, though you do all in your power to prevent me.” Having in- spanned, we held for the water, which I succeeded in reaching at a late hour. I still felt very anxious and full of care; but this first bold and successful step seemed to have made a strong impression on the guides, who still followed in our wake. It appeared to me that the orders they had received from their chief were to endeavor to lead me astray, and bring me to Sichely ; but that, in the event of my finding the way myself, they were to accompany me to Sicomy, to insure his friendship, and to convince him of their chief’s sincer- ity. On the morning of the 18th, shortly after the day dawned, I was lying awake, thinking whether I should hunt or explore the country in advance, my men hav- ing, as usual, wasted their food and already consumed the bull wildebeest which I had shot for them two days previously, when suddenly I heard the voices of men a little distance down the glade. Fortune seemed de- termined to favor me. The guides, who sat by our fire, had not heard the voices; if they had been aware of men being near us, they would have run to meet them, and warned them to lead me astray. Springing from my bed, I hastily donned my attire, and, proceeding in the direction of the voices, I discovered a party of ten Be- chuanas squatted round a fire which they had just kin- 248 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. dled. These men belonged to Booby; they had been hunting jackals at a place called Bodtlonamy, which is half way from Booby to Bamangwato, and they: were now returning home with their spoils. They at once pointed out to me the correct line of march for Ba» mangwato, and advised me of a fine nae in the forest one march in advance.. Having breakfasted, I inspanned, sail after trekking - for about six hours through dense forest we reached the vley. On the march it was necessary to have constant recourse to our axes to clear a path for the wagons. I was much delighted with the little loch to which we then came :.it covered about an acre, in shape a circle, and its margin was imprinted with the fresh spoor of a variety of wild animals, such as giraffe, rhinoceros, buf- falo, sassayby, pallah, zebra, lion, &cc. We encamped. ‘beneath two wide-spreading shady trees, and J at once saddled up, and rode forth with Kleinboy to hunt, our flesh being at an end. I had ridden about half a mile in a northeasterly course, through shady. groves of mo- Kala-trees, when suddenly I observed a stately giraffe walk slowly across my path, and crop the leaves from the upper branches of a mokala-tree about a hundred yards in advance. This was a fine look-out: with hasty hand I shifted my saddle from “Sunday” to the Old Gray, and ordering Kleinboy to set the pack-saddle on Sunday” and listen for shots, I rode slowly toward the giraffe. As I advanced I perceived another giraffe standing looking at me a little to my left, which gave . the alarm by starting off, when I stirred my steed, and on rounding an intervening clump of trees I came full in sight of a troop of eight giraffes cantering before me. In another minute I was in the middle of them, and selecting a fine fat cow, I rode hard at her, and fired GIRAFFES. 249 my first shot at the gallop. “She got it through her ribs, and the blood flowed freely. Again and again I broke her from the troop, and again she joined them. At length I fired my second shot at her stern; after which, by heading her, I brought her to a stand, when I sprang from the fidgety, snorting Old Gray, and, hastily load- ing both barrels, I fired right and left for her heart. Her colossal frame shook convulsively for a few seconds, when, tottering forward, she subsided in the dust with tremendous violence.. | Four signal-shots brought ieibey and the pack- horse, and also Isaac with the four guides. The chase was all in thick forest, and had led me to within a few hundred yards of the wagons. The hungry guides seemed enchanted at the prospect of such a banquet. They at once kindled a fire, and slept that night beside the carcass. I returned to the wagons with my horses laden with flesh. My mind was now once more at rest. I went to my bed and slept Bound: During the night lions roared around us. On the 19th I rose at dawn of i and took a stroll through the-forest. Here I found some old dung’ of elephants, and observed several full-grown trees torn up by the roots, and others that had been shivered by the gigantic strength of those animals. The guides, finding that they. prevailed nothing, at length volun- teered to lead me to Bamangwato by a northerly course, and promised ‘that I should not lack for water. We in- spanned, and held on till sundown, proceeding in a northeasterly course, when we halted in dense forest without water. Our march lay through an interesting country well adapted for hunting the eland and giraffe. The forest was in many places thin and open, with. here and there gigantic old trees of picturesque appear- L2 250 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. ance standing detached, some half dead, and others fall- ing to pieces from age. The soil was soft yet firm, and admirably suited for riding. The spoor of eland and giraffe was abundant. ~ On the 20th we inspanned at dawn of day, and, hav- ing proceeded about five miles, reached a miserable lit- tle kraal or village of Bakalahari. Here was a vley of water, beside which we outspanned. Starvation was written in the faces of these inhabitants of the forest. In their vicinity were a few small gardens, containing water-melons and a little corn. Occasionally they have the luck to capture some large animal in a pitfall, when for a season they live in plenty. But as they do not possess salt, the flesh soon spoils, when they are com- pelled once more to roam the forest in quest of fruits and roots, on which, along with locusts, they in a great measure subsist. In districts where game is abundant, they often construct their pits on a large scale, and erect hedges in the form of a crescent, extending to nearly a mile on either side of the pit. By this means the game may easily be driven into the pitfalls, which are care- fully covered over with thin sticks and dry grass, and thus whole herds of zebras and wildebeests are massa- cred at once, which capture is followed by the most dis- gusting banquets, the poor starving savages gorging and surfeiting in a manner worthy only of the vulture or hyzena. They possess no cattle, and if they did, the nearest chief would immediately rob them. © All that part of the country abounded with the pitfalls made by these and others of the Bakalahari. Many of these had been dug expressly for the giraffe, and were gen- erally three feet wide and ten long; their depth was from nine to ten feet. They were placed in the path of the camelopard, and in the vicinity of several of these ‘ A RHINOCEROS HUNT. 251 we detected the bones of giraffes, indicating the suc- cess that had attended their formation. At mid-day we resumed our march, halting at sun- set without water. The first part of this march lay through dense forest, where we were obliged to cut a _ pathway with our axes. Here the spoor of eland was abundant. In the evening we passed through an open tract very thinly wooded, where I saw aburidance of springbok and blue wildebeest. At, midnight, the dogs giving chase to some animal, I sprang out of bed, and, following them in my shirt, found them standing over ajackal. The guides skinned him, and, having baked him in the ashes, they consumed him. On the 22d, ordering my men to move on toward a fountain in the center of the plain, I rode forth with Ruyter, and held east through a grove of lofty and wide-spreading mimosas, most of which were more or less damaged by the gigantic strength of a troop of ele- phants, which had passed there about twelve months before. Having proceeded about two miles with large herds of game on every side,.I observed a crusty-look- ing old bull borélé, or black rhinoceros, cocking his ears one hundred yards in advance. He had not observed us; and soon after he walked slowly toward ‘us, and stood broadside tp, eating some wait-a-bit thorns within fifty yards of me, I fired from my ‘saddle, and sent a bullet in behind his shoulder, upon which he rushed for- ward about one hundred yards in tremendous conster- nation, blowing like a grampus, and then stood looking about him. Presently he made off. I followed, but found it hard to come up with him. When I overtook him I saw the blood running freely from his wound. | The chase led through a large herd of blue wilde- * beests, zebras, and springboks, which gazed at us in 252 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. utter amazement. At length I fired my second barrel, but my horse was fidgety, and I missed. -I continued riding alongside of him, expecting in my ignorance that at length he would come-to bay, which rhinoceroses never do; when suddenly. he fell flat on his broadside on the ground, but, recovering his feet, resumed his course as if nothing had happened. Becoming at last annoyed at the length of the chase, as I wished to keep my horses fresh for the elephants, and being indifferent whether I got the rhinoceros or not, as I observed that his horn was completely worn down with age and the violence of his disposition, I determined to?bring mat- ters to a crisis; so, spurring my horse, I dashed ahead, and rode right in his path. Upon this the hideous mon- ster instantly charged me in the most resolute manner, blowing loudly through his nostrils; and although I quickly wheeled about to- my left, he followed: me at ‘such a furious pace for several hundred yards, with his horrid horny snout within a few yards of my horse’s tail, that my little Bushman, who was looking on in great alarm, thought, his. master’s destruction inevita- ble. It-was certainly.a very near thing; my horse was extremely afraid, and exerted his utmost energies on the occasion. The rhinoceros, however, wheeled about, and continued his former course; and I, being perfect- ly satisfied.with the interview which I had already en- joyed with him, had no desire to cultivate his acquaint- ance any further, and accordingly made for camp. We left the fountain of Bodtlonamy the same day, and marched about six miles through an old gray forest of mimosas, when we halted for the night. Large flocks of Guinea-fowls roosted in the trees around our en- campment, several of which I shot for my supper. ‘Qn the 23d we inspanned by moonlight, and contin- + - UNLUCKY DAY. 2538 ued our march through a thinly-wooded, level country. It was a lovely morning; the sun rose in great splen- dor, and the sky was beautifully overcast with clouds. Having proceeded about ten miles, the country became thickly covered with detached forest-trees and groves of wait-a-bit thorns. The guides now informed us that the water, which is called by the Bechuanas “ Lepe- by,” was only a short distance in-advance, upon which T saddled steeds, and rode ahead with the Bushman, in- tending to hunt for an hour before breakfast. Present- ly we reached an open glade in the forest; where I ob- served a herd of zebras in advance; and on my left stood a troop of springboks, with two leopards watch- ing them from behind a bush. I rode on, and soon fell in with a troop of hartebeests, and, a little after, with a large herd of blue wildebeests and pallahs. I follow- ed these for some distance, when they were re-enforced by two other herds of pallahs and wildebeests. Three black rhinoceroses now trotted across my path. Pres-.. ently I sprang from my horse, and fired right and left at a princely bull blue wildebeest. He got both balls, but did not fall; and I immediately lost sight of him in. the dense ranks of his shaggy companions. The game increased as we proceeded, until the whole forest seemed alive with a variety of beautifully-colored ani- mals. On this occasion I was very unfortunate; I might have killed any quantity of game if venison had been my object; but I was trying to get a few very su- perior heads of some of the master bucks of the pallahs. Of these I wounded four select old bucks, but in the dust and confusion caused by the innumerable quanti- ty of. the game I managed to lose them all. We had now ridden many miles from the wagons; and feeling faint from want of food, I dropped the- chase 54 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. in disgust, and, without looking at my compass, order- ed the Bushman to go ahead. My attention had been so engrossed with the excitement of the pursuit, that I had not the remotest idea of the course J had taken, and the whole country exhibited ‘such an aspect of same- ness, that there was no landmark nor eminence of any description by which to steer. Having ridden many miles through the forest, I at length asked the Bush- man, in whom on sych occasions I generally placed great confidence, if he was sure he was riding in the right direction, and, as he appeared. quite confident, 1 allowed him to proceed. At length he said that we had gone a little too far to the left, and led me away several miles to the right, which was westerly ; where- as the wagons eventually proved to be a long way to the east. I-felt convinced that we were wrong, and, reining up, a discussion arose between us, the Bush- man still maintaining that we must ride west, while I was certain that our course should be east. I now adopted my own opinion, and, having ridden many miles in an easterly direction, we were at one time close upon the wagons, when the thick-headed Bush- man declared that if I persevered we should never see the wagons again, and I’ with equal stupidity yielded to his advice, and a southwesterly course was once more adopted. Having ridden for many miles, I again reined up, and again told the Bushman we were wrong ; upon which he for the first time acknowledged that he knew nothing at all about the matter, but stated it to be his impression that we ought to ride further to the west. My head was so confused that I lost all recol- lection of how we had ridden; and. while I was delib- erating what I should do, I observed a volume of smoke a long-way to the north, which I at once imagined had GET LOST IN THE WOODS. 255 been kindled by my followers to guide their lost mas- ter td the wagons. - With revived spirits, I stirred my jaded steed and made for the smoke; but, alas! this only served to lead me further astray. After.riding many miles in that direction, I discovered that the fire was at an amazing distance, and could not have been kindled by my men; it was the wild Bakalahari of the desert burn- ing the old dry grass. I was now like a seaman in a hurricane—at my wit’s end—I knew not how to ride nor what todo. The sun, which had just risen when T left the wagons, was about to set. There was no landmark whatever by which to steer; I might wan- der for days, and not discover water. ‘To find the wagons was comparatively a trifle. I thought little of them; it was the thought of water that harrowed my mind. Already the pangs of thirst began to seize me. I had ridden all day, under the hot sun, and had neither eaten nor drunk since early the preceding evening. I felt faint and weary, and. my heart sank as horrible visions of a lingering death by maddening thirst arose before me. Dismounting from my horse, I sat down to think what I should do. I knew exactly by my compass the course we had been steering since we left Booby. I accordingly resolved to ride southwest for many miles, the course of the wagons having been northeast, and then to send Ruy- ter across the country a little to the north of west, while I should hold a corresponding course in an east- erly direction. By this means one of us could not fail to find the spoor, and I arranged: that at nightfall we should meet at some conspicuous tree. Having thus resolved, I mounted my horse, which was half dead with thirst and fatigue, and, having ridden southwest 256 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. for several miles, I and Ruyter separated at a conspicu- ous tree, and rode in opposite directions. Before fiding far I recognized the country as being the spot where I had seen the leopards in the morning. I at once followed Ruyter, and fired several signal shoig, which he fortu- nately heard, and soon joined me. ‘We then rode due east, and eventually, to my inexpressible gratification, we discovered the spoor of the wagons, which we reached after following it for about four miles in a northeasterly direction. Our poor horses were pani ei exhausted, and could barely walk to the camp. ‘I found my wagons drawn up beside the strong fountain of Lepeby, which, issuing from beneath a stratum of white tufous rock, forrned an extensive deep pool of pure water, adorned on one side with lofty green reeds. This fountain was situated at the northern extremity‘of a level bare vley, surrounded by dense covers of the wait-a-bit thorns. Such a pe- culiar sameness characterized the country, that a per- son wandering only a few hundred yards from the fount- ain would have considerable difficulty in regaining it. It was night when I reached the wagons, and two ‘or three cups of coffee soon restored me to my wonted vigor. On the following morning, from earliest dawp until we trekked, which we did about 10 A.M., large herds of game kept pouring in to drink from every side, com- pletely covering the open space, and imparting to it the appearance of a cattle-fair; blue wildebeests, zebras, « sassaybies, pallahs, springboks, &c., capered fearlessly up to the water, troop after troop, within two hundred - yards of us. In former years a tribe of Bechuanas had frequented this fountain, and I beheld the skeletons of many rhinoceroses-and of one elephant bleaching in the THE ELEPHANT’S FOUNTAIN, 257 sun ; but the powerful and cruel Matabili had attacked the tribe, and driven them to seek a home elsewhere. I shot a pallah and a wildebeest, which we secured be- hind the wagons. About 10 A.M. we inspanned, and within. a mile of Lepeby we passed through another similar open vley, containing a strong fountain: of de- licious water. We continued our march till sundown through an undulating open country, thinly covered with detached trees and thorny bushes, and encamped in a sandy desert without water. CHAPTER XIV. The Bamangwato Mountains—The Elephant’s Fountain—A Troop of colossal Giraffes—Elephants drinking by Night—Habits of the Afri- _ can Elephant—Elephant Hunt—A Bull shot after a dangerous En- counter—Cutting out the Tuske—Extraordinary Rocks—Mountain Retreat of Sicomy, King of Bamangwate—His Cunning—Barter Mus- kets for Ivory—His Majesty" s curious Gun-practice—Trading for Na- tive Weapons. On the 25th, at dawn of day, we snesnniall and trekked about five hours in a northeasterly course, through’ a boundless. open country sparingly adorned with dwarfish old trees. In the distance the long-sought mountains of Bamangwato at length loomed blue before me. We halted beside a glorious fountain; which at once made me forget all the cares and difficulties I had encountered in reaching it. The name of this fountain was Massouey, but I at once christened it “ the Ele- phant’s own Fountain.” This was a very remarkable spot on the southern borders of endless elephant forests, at which I had at length arrived. The fountain was deep 258 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. and strong, situated in a hollow’at the eastern extrem. ity of an extensive vley, and its margin was surround. ed. by a level stratum of solid old red sandstone. Here and there lay a thick layer of soil upon the roek; and this was packed flat with the fresh spoor of elephants, Around the water’s edge the very rock was worn down by the gigantic feet which for ages had trodden there. The soil of the surrounding country was white and yellow sand, but grass, trees, and bushes were abund- ant. From the borders of the fountain a hundred well- trodden elephant foot-paths led away in every direction, like the radii of a circle.. The breadth of these paths was about three feet; those leading to the northward and. east were the most frequented, the country in those directions being well wooded. "We drew up the wag- ons on a hillock on the eastern side of the water. This position commanded a good view of any game that might approach to drink. I had just cooked my break- fast, and commenced to feed, when I heard my men exclaim, “Almagtig keek de ghroote clomp cameel ;” and, raising my eyes from my sassayby stew, I beheld a truly beautiful and very unusual scene. From the mar- gin of the fountain there extended an open level vley, without a tree or bush, that stretched away about a mile to the northward, where it was bounded by ex- tensive groves of wide-spreading mimosas. Up the middle of this vley stalked a troop of ten colossal gi raffes, flanked by two large herds of blue wildebeests and zebras, with an advanced guard of pallahs. ‘They were all coming to the fountain to drink, and would be within rifle-shot of the wagons before I could finish my breakfast. I, however, continued to swallow my food with the utmost expedition, having-directed my: men to catch and saddle Colesberg. ~In a few minutes the A TROOP OF GIRAFFES. 259 giraffes were slowly advancing within two hundred yards, stretching their graceful necks, and gazing: in wonder at the unwonted wagons. Grasping my rifle, [now mounted Colesberg, and rode slowly toward them. They continued gazing at the wagons until I was with- in one hundred yards of them, when, whisking’ their long tails over their rumps, they made off at an easy canter. As TI pressed upon them they increased their pace ; but Colesberg had much the speed of them, and before we had proceeded half a mile I was riding by the shoulder of the dark-chestnut old bull, whose head towered high above the rest. Letting fly at the gal- lop, I wounded him behind the shoulder; soon after which I broke him from the herd, and presently, going ahead of him, he came to a stand. I then gave hima second bullet, somewhere near the first. These two shots had taken effect, and he was now in my power, but I would not lay him low so far from camp; so, having waited until he had regained his breath, I drove him half way back toward the wagons. Here he be- came obstreperous ; so, loading one barrel, and point- ing my rifle toward the clouds, I shot him in the throat, when, rearing high, he fell backward and expired. This was a magnificent specimen of the giraffe, measuring upward of eighteen feet in height. I stood for nearly half an hour engrossed in the contemplation of his ex- treme beauty and gigantic proportions; and, if there had been no elephants, I could have exclaimed, like »Duke Alexander of Gordon when he killed the famous old stag with seventeen tine, ‘“‘ Now J can die happy.” But I longed for an encounter with the noble elephants, and I thought little more of the giraffe than if I had killed a gemsbok or an eland. In the afternoon I removed my wagons to a correct 260 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. distance from the fountain, and drew them up among _some bushes about four hundred yards to leeward of the water. In the evening I was employed in manu- facturing hardened: bullets for the elephants, using a composition of one of pewter to four of lead; and I had just completed my work, when we heard a troop of el- ephants splashing and trumpeting in the water. This was to me a joyful sound; I slept little that night. - On the. 26th I arose at earliest dawn, and, having fed four of my horses, proceeded with Isaac to the fount- ain to examine the spoor of the elephants which had drunk there during the night. A number of the paths contained fresh spoor of elephants of all sizes, which had gone from the fountain in different directions. We reckoned that at least thirty of these gigantic quadru- peds had visited the water during the night: ° We hastily returned to camp, where, having break- fasted, I saddled up, and proceeded to take up the spoor of the largest bull -elephant,: accompanied’ by after- riders and three of the guides to assist in spooring. I was also accompanied by my dogs. Having selected the spoor of a mighty bull, the Bechuanas went ahead, and I followed them. It was extremely interesting and exciting work. The foot-print of this elephant was about two feet in diameter, and was beautifully visible in the soft sand. The spoor at first led us for about three miles in an easterly direction, along one of the sandy foot-paths, without a check. We then entered’ a very thick forest, and the elephant had gone a littlé. out of the path to smash some trees, and to plow up the’ earth with his tusks. He soon, however, again took - the path, and held along it for several miles. We were on rather elevated ground, with a fine view of a part of the Bamangwato chain of mountains be- ELEPHANT HUNTING. 261 fore us. Here the trees were large and handsome, but not strong enough to resist the inconceivable strength of the mighty monarchs of these forests. Almost every tree had half its branches broken short by them, and at every hundred yards I came upon entire trees, and these the largest in the forest, uprooted clean out of the ground, or broken short across their stems. I observed several large trees placed in an inverted position, hav- ing their roots uppermost in the air. Our friend ‘had heré halted, and fed for a long time upon a large, wide- spreading tree, which he had broken short across within a few feet. of the ground.- After following the spoor some distance further through the dense mazes of the forest, we got into ground so thickly trodden by ele- phants that we were baffled in our endeavors to trace the spoor any further; and after wasting several hours in. attempting by casts to take up the proper spoor, we gave it up, and with a sorrowful. heart I turned my horse’s head toward. camp. Having reached the wagons, while drinking my cof- fee I reviewed the whole day’s. work, and felt much re- gret at my want of luck in my first day’s elephant hunting, and I resolved that night to watch the water, and try what could be done with elephants by night shooting. I accordingly ordered the usual watching- hole to be constructed, and, having placed my bedding ‘in it, repaired thither shortly after sundown. I-:had lain about two. hours in the hole, when I heard a low rumbling noise like distant thunder, caused (as the Bechuanas affirmed) by the bowels of the elephants which were approaching the fountain. I lay or my back, with my mouth open, attentively listening, and could hear them plowing up the earth with their tusks. Presently they walked up to the water, and commenced 262 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. drinking within fifty yards of me. They approached with so quiet a step that I fancied it was the footsteps of jackals which I heard, and I was not aware of their presence until I heard the water, which they had drawn up in their trunks and were pouring into their mouths, dropping into the fountain. I then peeped from my sconce with a beating heart, and beheld two enormous bull elephants, which looked like two great castles, standing before me. I could not see very distinctly, for there was only starlight. Having lain on my breast some time taking my-aim, I let fly at one of the ele- phants, using the Dutch rifle carrying six to the pound. The ball told loudly on his shoulder; and, uttering a loud cry, he stumbled through the fountain, when both made off in different directions. All night large herds of zebras and blue wildebeests capered around me, coming sometimes within a few yards. Several parties of rhinoceroses also made their appearance. I felt alittle apprehensive that lions might visit the fountain, and every time that hyenas or jack- als lapped the water I looked forth, but no lions ap- peared. At length I fell into a sound sleep, nor did I again raise my head until the bright star of morn had shot far above the eastern horizon. Before proceeding further with my narrative, it may here be interesting to make a few remarks on the Afri- can elephant and his habits. The elephant is widely’ diffused through the vast forests, and is met with in herds of various numbers. The male is. very much larger than the female, consequently much more diff cult to kill. He is provided with two enormous tusks. These are long, tapering, and beautifully arched ; their length averages from six to eight feet, and they weigh from sixty to a hundred pounds each. In the vicinity HABITS OF THE ELEPHANT. 263 of the equator the elephants attain to a greater size than to the southward; and I am in the possession of a pair of tusks of the African bull elephant, the larger of which measures ten feet nine inches in length, and weighs one hundred and seventy-three pounds. The females, unlike Asiatic elephants in this respect, are likewise provided with tusks. The price which the largest. ivory fetches in the English market is from £28 to £32 per hundred and twelve pounds. Old bull elephants are found singly or in pairs, or consorting to- gether in small herds, varying from six to twenty in- dividuals. The younger bulls remain for many years in the company of their mothers, and these are met to- gether in large herds of from twenty to a hundred in- dividuals. The food of the elephant consists of the branches, leaves, and roots of trees, and also of-a variety of bulbs, of the situation of which he is advised by his exquisite sense of smell. , To obtain these he turns up the ground with his ‘tusks, and whole acres. may be seen thus plowed up: Elephants consume an immense quantity of food, and pass. the greater part of the day and night in feeding. Like the whale in the ocean, the elephant on land is aéquainted with, and roams over, wide and extensive tracts. He is extremely particular in always frequenting the freshest and. most verdant districts of the forest; and when one district is parched and barren, he will forsale it for years, and wander to great distances in quest of better pasture. The elephant entertains an extraordinary horror of man, and a child can put a hundred of them to flight’ by passing at a quarter of a mile to windward; and when thus disturbed, they go a long ‘way before they halt. Itis surprising how soon these sagacious animals are aware of the presence of a hunter in their domains. 264 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. ‘When one troop has been attacked, all the other ele- phants frequenting the district are aware of the fact within two or three days, when they all forsake it, and migrate to distant parts, leaving the hunter no alterna- tive but to inspan his wagons, and remove ‘to fresh ground. This constitutes one of the greatest difficul- ties which a skillful elephant-hunter encounters. Even in the most remote parts, which may be reckoned the head-quarters of the elephant, it is only occasionally, and with inconceivable toil and hardship, that the eye of the hunter is cheered.by the sight of one. Owing to habits peculiar to himself, the elephant is more in- accessible, and much more rarely seen, than any other game quadruped, excepting certain rare antelopes. They choose for their resort the most lonely and se- cluded depths of the forest, generally at a very great distance from the rivers and fountains at which they drink. In dry. and warm weather they visit these waters nightly, but in cool and cloudy weather they drink only once every third or fourth day. About sun- down the elephant leaves his distant mid-day haunt, and commences his march toward the fountain, which is probably from twelve to twenty miles distant. This he generally reaches between the hours of nine and midnight, when, having slaked his thirst and cooled his body by spouting large volumes of water over his back with his trunk, he resumes the path to his forest. solitudes. Having reached a secluded spot, I have re- marked that full-grown bulls lie down on their broad- sides, about the hour of midnight, and sleep for a few. hours. The spot which they usually select is an ant- hill, and they lie around it, with their backs resting against it; these hills, formed by the white ants, are from thirty to forty feet in diameter at their base. The HABITS OF THE ELEPHANT. 265 inark of the under tusk is always deeply imprinted in the ground, proving that they lie upon their sides. I never remarked that females had thus lain down, and it is only in the more secluded districts that the bulls ‘ adopt this practice; for I observed that, in districts where the elephants were liable to frequent disturb- ance, they took repose standing on their legs beneath some shady tree. Having slept, they then proceed to feed extensively. Spreading out from one another, and proceeding in a zigzag course, they smash and destroy all the finest trees in the forest which happen to lie in their course. The number of goodly trees which a herd of bull elephants will thus destroy is utterly incredible. They are extremely capricious, and on coming to a group of five or six trees, they break down not unfre- quently the whole of them, when, having perhaps only tasted one or two small branches, they pass on and continue their wanton work of destruction. I have re- peatedly ridden through forests where the trees thus broken lay so thick across one another that it was al- most impossible to ride throngh the district, and it is in situations such as these that attacking the elephant is attended with most danger. During the night they will feed in open plains and thinly-wooded districts, but as day dawns they retire to the densest covers within reach, which nine times in ten are composed of the im- practicable wait-a-bit thorns, and here they remain drawn up in a compact herd during the heat of the day. In remote districts, however, and in cool weather, I have known herds to continue pasturing throughout the whole day. The appearance of the wild elephant i is inconceivably majestic and imposing. His gigantic height and co- lossal bulk, so greatly surpassing all other quadrupeds, Vou. I—M 266 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. combined with his sagacious, disposition and peculiar habits, impart to him an interest in the eyes of the hunter which no other animal can call forth. The pace of the elephant, when undisturbed, is a bold, free, sweeping step; and from the peculiar spongy formation - of his foot, his tread is extremely light and inaudible, and all his movements are attended with a peculiar gentleness and grace. This, however, ony applies to the elephant when roaming undisturbed in his jungle; for, when roused by the hunter, he proves the most dan- gerous enemy, and far more difficult to conquer than any other beast of the chase. On the 27th, as day dawned, I left my shooting- hole, and proceeded to inspect the spoor of my wound- ed elephant. After following it for. some distance I came to an abrupt hillock, and fancying that from the summit a good view might be obtained of the sur- rounding country, I left my followers to seek the spoor while I ascended. I did not raise my eyes from the ground until I had reached the highest pinnacle of rock. I then looked east, and, to my inexpressible gratifica- tion, beheld a troop of nine or ten elephants quietly browsing within a quarter of a mile of me. I allowed: myself only one glance at them, and then rushed down to warn my followers to be silent. A council of war was hastily held, the result of which was my ordering Jsaac to ride hard to camp, with instructions to returm as quickly as possible, accompanied. by Kleinboy, and to bring me my dogs, the large Dutch rifle, and a fresh horse. I once more ascorided the hillock to feast my eyes upon the enchanting sight before me, and, drawing out my spy-glass, narrowly watched the motions of the elephants. The herd consisted entirely.of females, sev- eral of which were followed by small calves, HERDS OF ELEPHANTS. 267 Presently, on reconnoitering the surrounding coun- try, I discovered a second herd, consisting of five bull elephants, which were quietly feeding about a mile te the northward. The cows were feeding toward a rocky ridge that stretched away from the base of the hillock on which I stood. Burning with impatience to commence the attack, I resolved to try the stalking sys- tem with-these, and to hunt the troop of bulls with dogs and horses. Having thus decided, I directed the guides to watch the elephants from the summit of the hillock, and with a beating heart I approached them. The ground and wind favoring me, I soon gained the rocky ridge toward which they were feeding. They were now within one hundred yards, and I resolved to enjoy the pleasure of watching their movements for a little before I fired. They continued to feed slowly toward me, breaking the branches from the trees with their trunks, and eating the leaves and tender shoots. I soon selected the finest in the herd, and kept my eye on her in particular. At length two of the troop had walked slowly past at about sixty yards, and the one which I had selected was feeding with two others, on a thorny tree before me. My hand was now as steady as the rock on which it rested ; so, taking a deliberate aim, I let fy at her head a little behind the eye. She got it hard and sharp, just where I aimed, but it did not seem to affect her much. Uttering a loud cry, she wheeled about, when I gave her the second ball close behind the shoulder. All the elephants uttered a strange rumbling noise, and made off in a line to the northward at a brisk am bling pace, their huge, fan-like ears flapping in the ratio of their speed. I did not wait to load, but ran back to the hillock to obtain a view. On gaining its 268 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. summit, the guides pointed out the elephants; they were standing in a grove of shady trees, but the wounded one was some distance behind. with another elephant, doubtless its particular friend, who was en- deavoring ‘to assist it. These elephants had probably never before heard the report of a gun, and, having neither seen nor smelt me, they were unaware of the presence of man, and did not seem inclined to’ go any further. Presently my men hove in sight, bringing the dogs ; and when these came up, I waited ‘some time before commencing the attack; that the dogs and horses might recover their wind. ‘We then rode slow- ly ‘toward the elephants, and had advanced within two hundred: yards of them when, the ground being open, they observed us, and made off in an easterly direction; but the wounded one immediately dropped astern, and the next moment was surroundéd by the dogs, which, barking angrily, seemed to engross her attention: Having placed myself between her and the retreat- ing troop, I dismounted to firé within forty yards of her; in open ground. Colesberg was extteniely afraid of the elephants, and gave me much trouble, jerking. ‘my arm when I tried to fire. At length I let fly; but, on endeavoring to regain my saddle, Colesberg declined to allow me to mount ; and when I tried to lead him, and run for it, he only ‘Tackcedl ‘toward the wounded ele- phant. -At this moment I heard another elephant close behind; and on looking about, I beheld the “ friend,” with saplifted trunk, charging down upon me at top speed, shrilly trumpeting, and following an old black pointer named Schwart, that was perfectly deaf, and trotted along before the enraged elephant quite unaware of what was behind him. I felt certain that she would have either me or my horse. 1, however, determined A PERILOUS ENCOUNTER. 269 not to relinquish my steed, but to hold on by the bri- dle. My men, who ofcourse kept at a safe distance, stood aghast with their mouths open, and for a few sec- onds my position was certainly not an enviable one. Fortunately, however, the dogs took off the attention of the elephants; and just as they were upon me, I managed to’spring into the saddle, where I was safe. As I turned my back to mount, the elephants were so very near that I really expected to feel one of their trunks lay hold of me... I rode up to Kleinboy for my double-barreled two-grooved rifle: he and Isaac were pale and almost speechless with fright. Returning to the charge, I was soon once more alongside, and, firing from the saddle, I sent another brace of bullets into the wounded elephant. Colesberg was cigbaneied ey and destroyed the correctness of my aim. The friend now seemed resolved to do some vsiuie and charged me furiously, pursuing me to a distance of several hundred yards. I therefore deemed it proper to give her a gentle hint to act less officiously, and, ac- cordingly, having loaded, I approached within thirty yards, and gave it her sharp, right and left, behind the shoulder, upon which she at once made off with droop- ing trunk, evidently with a mortal wound. . I never re- cur to this my first- day’s elephant shooting without re- gretting my folly in contenting myself with securing only one elephant. -The first was now dying, and could not leave the ground, and the second was also mortal- ly wounded, and I had only to follow and finish her; but I foolishly allowed her to. escape, while I amused myself with the first, which kept.walking backward, and standing by every tree she passed. ‘I:wo more shots finished. her: on receiving them, she tossed her trunk up and down. two or three times, and, falling on 270 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. her broadside against a thorny tree, which yielded like grass before her enormous weight, she uttered a deep hoarse cry and expired. This was a very handsome old cow elephant, and was decidedly the best in the troop. She was in excellent condition, and carried a pair of long and perfect tusks. 1 was in high spirits at my success, and felt so perfectly satisfied with having killed one, that, although it was still early in the day, and my horses were fresh, I allowed the troop of five bulls to remain unmolested, foolishly trusting to fall in with them next day. How little did I then know of the habits of elephants, or the rules to be ‘adopted in hunting them, or deem it probable I should never see them more! Having knee-haltered our liorses, we set to work with our knives and assagais to prepare the skull for the hatchet, in order to cut out the tusks, nearly half the length of which, I may mention, is imbedded in bone sockets in the fore part of the skull. To cut out the tusks of a cow elephant requires barely one fifth of the labor requisite to cut out those of a bull; and when the sun went down, we had managed by our combined ef- forts to cut out one of the tusks of my first elephant, with which we triumphantly returned to camp, hav- ing left the guides in charge of the carcass, where they volunteered to take up their quarters for the night. On reaching my wagons I found Johannus and Carol- lus in a happy state of indifference to all passing: events: they were both very drunk, having broken into my wine-cask and spirit-case. On the 28th I arose at an early hour, and, burning with anxiety to look forth once more from the summit of the hillock which the day before brought me such luck, I made a hasty breakfast, and rode thither with MARCH TO THE KRAAL OF SICOMY. 271 after-riders and my dogs. But, alas! I had allowed the golden opportunity to slip. This day I sought in vain; and although I often again ascended to the summit of my favorite hillock on that and on the succeeding year, my eyes were destined never again to hail from it a troop of elephants. Early on the following morning I seaeestied to in- spect the sandy foot-paths leading from the fountain, and at once discovered the spoor of two mighty bull el- ephants that had drunk there during the night. These I followed, but did not succeed in coming up with the objects of my search. We were now within two days’ march of the kraal of the great chief Sicomy, king of the extensive terri- tory of Bamangwato. This chief was reported to be in the possession of large quantities of ivory ; and asI had brought a number of muskets and other articles for barter, I was anxious to push on and first get over my trading before resuming elephant hunting, more especially since it was not improbable that, having once led the way, other adventurers might follow in my track, and perhaps spoil my market. Taking this into consideration, I deémed it proper, on the morning of the 30th, to march upon the kraal of Sicomy ; and, ac- cordingly, about 10 A.M. we inspanned, and held for the Bamangwato mountains, whose summits we could see peering above the intervening forest in an easterly direction, On our march we passed near to the car- eass of the elephant whith I had slain three. days be- fore. ‘The number of vultures which were here con- gregated was truly wonderful. My guides had baked a part of the trunk and two of the feet of the elephant, and these they now brought to the wagons.* * Tt was ever to me a source of great pleasare to reflect that, while 272 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. On the following morning, which was the Ist of July, we inspanned at dawn of day, and late in the after- noon we reached Lesausau, having performed an ex- tremely arduous and fatiguing march. Our route dur- ing the greater part of the day lay through dense jun- gle and thorny thickets, where it was necessary. to clear a way with our axes before the wagons could pass. The ground also was in many places’ extremely rocky, and. threatened the destruction of my wheels and axle- trees, causing us much labor, it. being indispensable to remove the masses of rock to one side. As we neared Lesausau, we entered upon a broad level strath, adorned throughout its length and breadth with a variety of pic- turesque acacia and other trees, which stood at:intervals as if they had been planted by the hand of man. On either side, the mountains rose abruptly from the plain, and they now assumed a very bold and striking appear- ance, their sides and summits consisting of huge masses of rock piled one above another, some of which seemed so balanced upon their.exalted and narrow pedestals, “ As if an infant’s touch could urge Their headlong passage down the verge.” A light and feathery fringe of dwarfish trees and va- rieties of gigantic cacti adorned the sides and upper enriching myself in following my favorite pursuit of elephant hunting, I was feeding and making happy the starving families of hundreds of the Bechuana and Bakalahari tribes, who invariably followed my wag ons, and assisted me in my hunting, i in numbers varying from fifty. to two hundred ata time. These men yere often accompanied by their 2 wives and families, and when an elephant, hippopotamus, or other large animal was slain, all hands repaired to the spot, when every inch of the animal was reduced to biltongue, viz., cut into long narrow strips, and hung in festoons upon poles, and dried in the sun: even the entrails were not left for the vultures and hyenas, and the very bones were chopped to pieces with their hatehetsto obtain the marrow, with which they enriched their soup. BAMANGWATO WARRIORS. 273 ridges of these rugged mountains, and, as we proceed- ed, I observed finely-wooded wild ravines SSH away into the bosom of the mountains. Here we were joined by three of Sicomy’s men, who informed us that they were in daily apprehension of an attack from the Matabili, who they heard were march- ing against them. In consequence of this, Sicomy and all his tribe had forsaken their kraals, and were now liv- ing in wild caves and other secluded retreats in the sides and on the summits of these rocky mountains. They led us round the base of a bold projecting rock, and then up a wild and well-wooded rocky ravine, bearing no traces of men. On raising our eyes, however, we per- ceived the summits of the rocks covered with women and children, and very soon detached parties of Sicomy’s warriors came pouring in from different directions, to gaze upon the white man, I being the first that many of them had seen. These men were all armed and ready for action, each bearing an oval shield of ox, buf- falo, or camelopard’s hide, a battle-ax, and three or four assagais. They wore karosses of jackal’s and leopard’s skins, which depended gracefully from their shoulders; and many of them sported a round tuft of black ostrich feathers on their heads, while others had adorned their woolly hair with one or two wavy plumes of white ones. Both men and women wore abundance of the usual ornaments of beads and brass and copper wire. We were presently met by a messenger from Sico- my, saying that the king was happy we had arrived, and that he would shortly come to see me. We pro- ceeded up the bold and narrow ravine of Lesausau as far as it was practicable, the water being situated at its upper extremity. Soon after we had encamped Sicomy drew nigh, accompanied by a large retinue of M2 274 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH ATFRICA. his prificipal men and warriors. He appeared to me to be about thirty years of age, and was of middle stature. His distinguishing feature is a wall-eye, which imparts to his countenance a roguish look that does not belie the cunning and deceitful character of the man. As he came up to the wagons I met and shook hands with him, and invited him to partake of coffee with me. I could see that he was enchanted at my arrival. He talked at a very rapid pace, and assumed an abrupt and rather dictatorial manner, occasionally turning round and cracking jokes. with his counselors and nobility. He was very anxious to ascertain from Isaac the con- tents of the wagons, and said that he would buy every thing I had brought, and that he would give me a large bull elephant’s tusk for each of my muskets. This was a fishing remark to hear what I should say; so I replied that the muskets cost many teeth in my own country, and that I had not stolen them. I lad resolved to maintain a firm and independent manner in my dealings with him, treating him, at the same time, with the utmost affability. I told him that other men feared to come so far to trade with him, but that his friend Dr. Livingstone had directed me to come, and had sent him a present by me. I then gave him. Dr. Livingstone’s present, with a similar one from myself, consisting of beads, snuff, and ammunition. It amus- ed me to observe the timid and cringing demeanor of the men of Booby when seated in the presence of the king. Approaching him with the utmost humility, they saluted him by stretching out their hands and clapping the palms together, saying at the same time ‘“‘Ruméla, cosi,” signifying Hail, king! which his maj: esty was graciously pleased to acknowledge by squint- ing at them with his cock-eye, and saying “ Eh,” which INTERVIEW WITH SICOMY. 275 is the invariable Bechuana acknowledgment of a salu- tation. Often, however; when I saluted the natives, they acknowledged my salutation by saying “ Eh! keituméla, cosi a Machoa;” signifying “Eh! thank you, king of the white men.” . Having saluted the king, the Booby men at once proceeded to expatiate upon the difficulty they: had had in prevailing upon the great white man. to visit his dominions, and the meritorious manner in which they had conducted me thither; for which the king expressed his gratitude, and ordered “‘ boyalwa,” or native beer, to be placed before them. Sicomy remained long at the wagons, engaged in deep and constant conversation with my interpreter and sev- eral of his elder counselors, and at a late hour he de- parted, promising to visit us early on the following day. Fearing that any of his people might. come and trade with me during his absence, the king instructed. his uncle Mutchuisho, with a retinue, to remain beside the wagons during the night. . At an early hour on the following morning the king made his appearance, attended by a number of his war- riors, all carrying their battle gear. I was still in ped, and, seeing the king peeping into my wagon, I pretended to be asleep. Presently I observed a sav- age coming up the glen bearing on his shoulders a bull elephant’s tooth, which he laid under the wagon. Coffee was now announced, so I arose, and the king breakfasted with me. JI had resolved to say.as little as possible about the trading, and to appear very indiffer- ent, a system indispensable in trading with the natives, which at all times progresses slowly, but much more so if the trader allows them to imagine that he i is very anxious to obtain possession of their goods.* * In trading with the Bechuanas, the most difficult point is agreeing 276 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. While Sicomy was taking his coffee, he told me that he had. dispatched men to bring elephants’ teeth, which he said were at a distance, and that hé would purchase every thing as quickly as possible, that I might be en- abled to leave the country before the Matabili should come. This rumor about the Matabili I at the time suspected to be a fabrication, but I subsequently. as- certained that it was a fact. - In the forenoon I occupied myself in writing my jour- nal in my wagon, and I could see that the king, was an- noyed at my indifference about the trading. At length he asked me to come out of the wagon, saying that he had got a present for me, and he brought forward the elephant’s tusk whieh lay beneath the wagon. Hav- ing thanked him, I expressed myself satisfied with his present, and, in return, immediately presented him with what he reckoned an equivalent in beads. He asked me the price of my muskets, and I answered four large bull’s teeth for each. He then retired to an adjacent grove of shady trees, where he sat consulting with his men for hours. .Two men at length appeared, coming from opposite directions, each bearing a bull’s tooth. ‘When these arrived, Sicomy ordered them to be placed before me, and, calling Isaac, he inflicted on me a long about the price of any article in the first instance; and often, when trad- ing has once commenced, and the natives are satisfied with the price, exchanges are effected rapidly. It is generally necessary for the trader to ask a little more than’he expects to get, that he may appear to yield to their importunity,.otherwise they would not deal with,him. They never conclude a bargain in a hurry, and always deem it necessary to ask the advice of nearly every one present before they can make up their minds; and if it should happen that any one individual presetit disapprove of the bargain, the exchange is for the time at an end. I have more than once been prevented from effecting a sale, which I had all but concluded, by some old wife, who happened to be passing at the moment, exclaiming that I was too high in my’ prices, although she was perfectly ignorant of our transaction. A TOUGH CUSTOMER. 277 harangue; talking all manner of nonsense, and endeav- oring to obtain a musket for these two teeth. At length a third tusk was brought, but it was a small one. It was now late in ‘the afternoon, so I told the king that I was going to take a walk in the mountains to obtain a view of his country. He said that he was going to buy one of the muskets immediately, and re- quested that I would not leave the wagons. After sit- ting talking with his men till it was near sunset, he once more offered me two tusks for a gun. I replied that I had already spoken. He then said he was going home, and that he did not know if he would come again to trade with me. If the king had indeed resolved mot to trade with me, no request on my part would have altered the case. SoI replied that I had never asked him to purchase any thing, and was perfectly indiffer- ent whether he did or not; that there were other chiefs who were anxious to purchase my goods, and that my reason for visiting his territory was to enjoy the sport of elephant hunting. Having thus spoken, I wished him good evening, and, shouldering my rifle, stalked up the rocky ravine and shot,two baboons. . At an early hour on the following morning Sicomy . - was at the wagons, and, having breakfasted, he com- menced as on the previous day to endeavor to purchase a gun with twoiusks. At length I'said that he should have one for three tusks, provided they were large. After. a protracted discussion, the third tusk was pro- duced, when I handed him a musket. He next bother- ed for a bullet-mold, which I also gave him into the bar- gain. Having obtained the mold, he insisted on hav- ing a lead-ladle, That TI said I could not give him with one gun; but promised if he dealt liberally with me he should have one. He continued his importunity about 278 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. the ladle till late in the afternoon, when he began to talk about buying a second gun. Three tusks were brought, and we had nearly concluded a bargain, when some of his counselors told him that he ought to have received powder and bullets along with the first gun. He commenced to pester me on this subject; but I stoutly resisted, and told him the bargain was conclud- ed. He, however, continued to harp on this string till a late hour, when I told him, as I had done the preced- ing day, that I must now take a walk; and remarked that, if he thought he had given too much for my gun, he had better return it, and take away his tusks. Hav- in& consulted a short time with his wise men, he re- turned the gun, and resumed possession of his tusks. I then shouldered my rifle, and held for the wells, to give the dogs water. . These wells were situated at a great distance from my. camp, and yielded a very moderate supply of water. -Here I met with large parties of the Bamangwato women drawing water, which they bore in earthen ves- sels balanced on their heads to their elevated retreats in the mountains. The.pits where my oxen drank were very distant from the camp, and were reported not to yield a sufficient supply of water, the conse- quence of which was that my horses and oxen had al- ready greatly fallen off in condition. In this state of things, I resolved that my stay at Bamangwato should not exceed another day, and I determined, if possible,.. _ to come to terms with Sicomy on the following morn- ing. On returning to the wagons, Carollus came up to me and reported half the oxen missing. This threw me into a state of great alarm. I at once suspected treachery, and I well knew that if Sicomy had taken them they would not easily be recovered. I instantly DILATORY MODE OF TRADING. 279 dispatched two mounted men in different directions, with instructions to ride hard and seek the spoor, and these returned at a late hour, having found them. On reviewing my trading, I could not help feeling annoyéd at the dilatory mode in which it progresséd. I had now spent two entire days endeavoring to trade, yet no exchanges had been effected. For this, how- ever, there was no help. I could not have acted other- wise, and on the following day I reaped the benefit of my unyielding resolution. Although I voted the trading an intense bore, it was nevertheless well worth a little time and inconvenience, on account of the enormous profit I should realize. The price I had paid for the muskets was £16 for each case containing twenty muskets, and the value of the ivory I required for each musket was upward of £30, being about 3000 per cent., which I am informed is reckoned among mercantile men to be a very fair profit. Sicomy was in those days in the possession of very large quan- tities of splendid ivory, and still considerable quantities pass annually through his hands. Since I first visited Bamangwato, and taught the natives the use of fire- arms, they have learned to kill the elephant themselves; but previous to my arrival they were utterly incapable of subduing a full-grown elephant, even by the united exertions of the whole tribe. All the ivory whicli Sico- my then possessed, and the majority of that which still passes through his hands, is obtained from elephants slain with assagais by an active and daring race of Bushmen inhabiting very remote regions to the north- ward and northwest of Bamangwato. The manner in which Sicormy obtained this ivory was by sending a party of his warriors to the Bushman, who first obtained the tusks in barter for a few beads, 280 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. and then compelled some of the poor Bakalahari, or wild natives of the desert, over whom Sicomy conceives that he has a perfect right to tyrannize, to bear them on their shoulders across extensive deserts of burning sand to his head-quarters at Bamangwato. So great was the fatigue endured by the poor Bakalahari on these occasions, that many of them died of exhaustion before reaching Bamangwato. At an early hour on the 4th, Sicomy not appearing, I proceeded to visit him at his mountain residencé, accompanied by Isaac and a party _of his own men. We wound along the base of the mountains for the distance of half a mile, and then commenced ascending the almost perpendicular and rugged mountain side, consisting of immense masses of rock heaped together in dire confusion. Having gained the summit, which was of a tabular character, we advanced a short distance through a succession of heaps of disjointed masses of rock, and presently we reached the chief’s temporary retreat, which consisted of a stall circular hut, composed of a frame-work of boughs of trees, interlined with twigs and covered with grass. A number of similar huts were erected around the royal dwelling, on areas which his men had cleared among the rocks. This, however, was the abode of only a very small part of his tribe, which was extensively scattered over different parts of the mountain range, and occupied sundry distant cattle outposts. I found Sicomy seated before his wigwam, in earnest . conversation with his counselors. He seemed pleased’ to see me, and thanked me for my visit. I shook hands with him, and informed him that, owing to the scar- city of water at Lesausau, I could not prolong my visit to him, and that I had come to take my leave, and had brought him a few presents, which I then laid before BRISK BARTER, 281 him. He thanked me, and said that I was very good, and that he was happy that I had visited his country; but that one thing made his heart sore, viz., that we had not been able to trade. I replied that that was his fault, and not mine, having offered him my -goods on equally liberal terms as I did to others. I then ex- pressed myself anxious to depart. Hereupon Sicomy. requested me to remain with him another day, promis- ing to bring me abundance of tusks, and to purchase all my muskets. To this I replied that I was still will- ing to deal with him, if he would only deal fairly ; but I gave him to understand that this was positively the last day I could remain with him. "We then all start- ed for the wagons, where this day the barter went on as briskly as it had been. dilatory on the two preceding ones. The king continued drinking coffee and taking snuff at a tremendous rate, and large bowls of his bo- yalwa kept continually arriving, and were freely circu- lated throughout the day. Sicomy gave me three bull’s tusks for each of the first two muskets, I giving him some powder and lead to boot; after which the price fell to two tusks for each musket. With this rate of exchange the whole assembly seemed perfectly satis-. fied, and the trading went on without a murmur. Ath- letic savages were constantly coming and going through- out the day in three different directions, bearing on their shoulders the precious spoils of the elephants of the Kalahari; and when the sun went down, all my mus- kets were disposed of, and I found myself in the posses- sion of a very valuable lot of ivory. | I also effected several exchanges of beads and am- munition for the tusks of cow elephants. I had.resolved to purchase fine specimens of the native costume and arms, &c.; but ivory being the most important article, 282 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. it was best to defer all minor transactions until our trade in it was concluded. The king seemed highly delighted with his purchases, and insisted on discharg- ‘ing each of the muskets as he bought it. It was amus- ing to see the manner in which he performed this oper- ation. ‘Throwing back his kaross, and applying the stock to his naked shoulder, he shut his good eye, and kept the wall-eye open, to the intense amusement of the Hottentots, who were his instructors on the occa- sion. ach report caused the utmost excitement and merriment among the warriors, who pressed forward, and requested that they also might be permitted to try their skill with these novel implements of war. The king had in his possession a most wonderful knob-kerry, which I was determined to obtain. It-was made of the horn of the kobaoba, a very «are species of the rhinoceros, and its chief interest consisted in its ex- traordinary length, which greatly exceeded any thing I had ever seen of the kind before, or have since met with. Handing Sicomy my snuff-box, I pointed to the kerry, and asked him where the kobaoba had been killed. He replied that that kerry had been sent him by a chief who resided at an amazing distance on the borders of the Lake of Boats. I then asked him to pre- sent it to me, that I might have something to keep in remembrance of him; but he replied that it belonged to his wife, and he could not part with it. Presently, however, while sipping his coffee, he said that if I chose I might purchase it. I asked him what he required for it, and he answered, the cup which he then held full’ of gunpowder. Accordingly, when his majesty had drained the cup, I handed him the powder, and became possessor of the kobaoba kerry, which is now in my possession, and on which I place a very great value. A BECHUANA BIVOUAC. 283 It was now night, and the king said that he would sleep by the wagons, as it was too late’to go home. A number of his men prepared for the bivouac, some collecting logs for the nocturnal watch-fire, which the Bechuanas invariably keep up, while others were occu- pied in forming circular hedges of thorny branches around the fires, within which they carefully leveled the ground with pointed sticks, preparatory to spread- ing out their couches, which consist of long, dried grass, and extend in a circular form around the fire. On these couches the. Bechuanas sleep, with the soles of their feet to the fire, with no other covering than a light kaross. They lie huddled together like silver spoons on a tray, and the number of individuals around each fire is usually about a dozen. - Before retiring to rest I in- formed Sicomy that I sould march on the morrow as soon as my oxen had drunk, and I expressed my wish -to trade with his people for karosses and armor at an early hour. Sicomy promised that these articles should be forthcoming, and at once informed his people of my wish. At an early hour on the morning of the 5th, I com- menced to trade with Sicomy’s men for karosses and Bechuana arms, of each of which I obtained some very fine specimens. With these, as with the ivory, there was considerable discussion before the prices could be agreed on in the first instance, after which exchanges were effected rapidly. I had, however, to pay them long prices for their ““chakas” or battle-axes, on which all the Bechuana tribes place a very great value. I had intended to penetrate beyond Bamangwato, with a wish to explore the country, and for the purpose of hunting elephants; but, owing to gross misrepre- sentations made to me by Isaac relative to Sicomy’s 284 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. wishes on the subject, and partly owing to the threat- ened attack from the Matabili, I resolved for the pres- ent not to extend my peregrinations beyond Baman- gwato, but to ocoupy my time for the remainder of that season in hunting throughout the fine country between Bamangwato and Sichely’s mountains. As Isaac’s character, however, gradually unfolded itself to me, and as I became more intimate and conversant with the natives, I discovered that he had interpreted Si- comy’s wishes to me in utterly false colors; and I aft- erward ascertained from the natives, whose language I very soon began to understand, that Sicomy and his people were not only willing, but anxious that I should remain and hunt elephants in their territory. In con- sequence of this, as the reader will shortly learn, being informed by Sicomy’s- men that the invasion by the Matabili was no longer apprehended, I returned. to Ba- mangwato, and penetrated into the extensive forest to the northward and eastward of that mountain range, where for several months I continued hunting: ele- phants, accompanied by large parties of Sicomy’s men. TAKE LEAVE OF SICOMY. 285 CHAPTER XV. Take leave of Sicomy—Digging for Water—The Elephant’s Fountain again—A wounded Roan Antelope bays in the Water, and kills my ‘Dogs right and left—Sicomy’s Camp again—We march through a beautiful Valley—Curious Instinct of the Rhinoceros Bird—A mighty Bull Elephant shot after a hard Conflict—Mutchuisho’s Attentions * more charitable than pleasant—Cutting up an Elephant—A strange Scene—Baking the Flesh—Primitive Tobacco-pipes—Biltongue Fes- toons. ; : : Asout 11 o’clock A.M. on the 5th of July, every thing being ready, I took leave of Sicomy and retraced my steps for Corriebely. ‘It eaused me much pain and anxiety to observe that my cattle were extremely hol- low-looking and spiritless from want of water, not one of them having obtained a sufficiency of that essential of life since they had last drunk at Corriebely, and sev- eral appearing so distressed that I entertained consid- erable fears of their being able to reach that fountain. I was accompanied by a small party of Sicomy’s men, who followed me in the hope of obtaining flesh. Hav- ing proceeded about a mile, I missed my greyhound “Flam,” which had been doubtless stolen by Sicomy’s orders, he being’ notorious for his predilection for that variety of dog. I therefore at once dispatched a mes- senger to the king, to say that I required him to find my dog ; and shortly after this men overtook me, bear- ing a kaross which they said the king had sent to pur- chase one of my dogs. I replied that they had already taken the dog, but that I would not have the kaross. They then departed, and I continued my march. Aft- 286 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. er trekking about six miles we reached a deep gravel- hole beside a mass of red granite rock, at the bottom of which there was about a bucketful of spring water; and here was the fresh spoor of a huge bull elephant, which had scooped out large portions of the gravel with his trunk on the preceding evening, but on turning about he had entirely undone what he had accomplish- ed by trampling it-down again into the well with his huge feet. On inspecting the spot I fancied that by digging we might obtain a little water for the unfortunate cattle, which at this moment was an object of the utmost im- portance, the fountain of Corriebely being still very distant. I accordingly set to work hard with ‘all my followers, assisted by the Bechuanas; and having re- moved an immense quantity of the gravel, I had the satisfaction to discover a small spring of exceilent wa- ter, which issued from beneath the granite rock, and ran as fast as we could catch:it in our pails. I then placed my large flesh-pot near the pit, and ordering the men to bring up the cattle in small detachments, we bailed out the water as fast as they could drink jit, the buckets being handed along by a line of men extending” up the gravel bank to the cattle, and thus; i in a short time, every one of them obtained a sufficiency. This opportune supply of water was to me invaluable, my poor dogs having also been much distressed, and requir- ing water no less than the cattle. ‘With renewed spirits we continued our journey, and at sundown we halted about half way to. Corriebely: On the march two of the oxen evinced distress, and we were obliged to outspan them and allow them to follow slowly with the loose cattle. About 10 o’clock on the following morning I reached Corriebely, and was most SEARCH FOR ELEPHANTS. 287 thankful to have succeeded in bringing all my wretch- ed cattle alive to a fountain where they could drink their fill, While breakfasting, three of Sicomy’s men approached, leading my greyhound Flam; they said that they were sent by Sicomy, who, on hearing that she was missing, had at once issued orders for her recovery. In the afternoon we inspanned, and marched to the scene of the fall of my first elephant, where we halted for the night. On reaching Massouey I commenced ex- amining the elephants’ foot-paths on the side on which were my strongest hopes. I had almost made the cir- cuit of the fountain, and hope had died within me, when, lo! broad. and long, and fresh as fresh could be, the enormous spoor of two mighty bull elephants whieh had drunk there during the night. This was glorious! I had great faith in the spooring powers of the Ba- mangwato men, and I felt certain that at length the day had arrived on which I was to kill my first bull elephant. The Bechuanas at once took up the spoor, and went ahead in a masterly manner, and with buoy- ant spirits I followed in their steps.. The spoor led about due west, a direction in which I had not yet been. Having followed it for many miles through this desert country, we reached a district where the bushes, to whose berries Knop-kop was so partial, grew in great abundance; and. here the elephants had commenced to feed upon their roots, plowing up the sand extensively with their tusks. We now entered upon ground much frequented by elephants, their traces, of various dates, extending on all sides, crossing and recrossing one an- other in every direction ; and by this means we event- ually lost the spoor. After a fruitless search of several hours, and many vain endeavors to retrieve the day by 288 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. trying back on the spoor and making wide casts te the right and left, I was completely beaten, and com- pelled to drop it, the Bechuanas sitting down and sulk- ily refusing to proceed further. We now bent our steps homeward. We had not: ridden’ many miles when we observed a herd of fifteen camelopards brows- ing-quietly in an open glade of the forest. -After a very severe chase, in the course of which they stretched out into a magnificent widely-extended front, keeping their line with a regularity worthy of a troop of dragoons, I succeeded in separating:a fine bull, upward of éight- een feet in height, from the rest of the herd, and brought him to the ground within a short distance of the camp. The Bechuanas expressed themselves de- lighted at my success. They kindled a fire and slept beside the carcass, which they very soon reduced to bil- tongue and marrow-bones. ‘On the morning of the 8th I walked to the fountain and examined all the elephants’ foot-paths, but there was no fresh spoor.. Having breakfasted, I rode for a conical hill, distant from the wagons: about five miles in a northerly direction, from whose summit I fancied that elephants might be seen. It was a charming cool day, with a fine bracing wind, the sky beautifully over- cast with clouds. I rode along, holding the elephants’ foot-paths. The marks of their strength were visible in every grove, and all the large trees in the vicinity of the muddy vieys, which at this season were dry, were plastered with sun-baked mud to a height of twelve feet from the ground. On reaching the base of the conical hill I secured my horse to a tree, and as- sended to its summit, from which I carefully examined the distant forest landscape with my spy-glass, but sought in vain for elephants. ROAN ANTELOPES 289 In the evening I took my heavy single-barreled rifle and sauntered toward the fountain. A large herd of blue wildebeests were slowly advancing up the vley to drink. I accordingly took up a position behind a low bush near which they must pass, and lay flat on the ground, waiting their approach. Presently I raised my head to see how they were coming on, when I per- ceived a pair of the rare and beautiful roan antelope or bastard gemsbok warily approaching. the fountain. These came up, and were passing within a hundred and twenty yards of me, when, selecting the buck, I let fly, and missed. The whole herd of wildebeests now wheeled to the right-about, and thundered down the vley, enveloped in a cloud of dust; but the two roan antelopes, which had probably never before heard the report of a gun, stood looking. about them, while I hastily loaded, lying flat on my side. This being ac- complished, I again let. fly, and the old buck dropped to the shot; the ball had entered his shoulder, and he lay kicking and roaring until I had almost reloaded, when he r@gained his feet and made off after his com- rade. At this moment “ Argyll” and ‘“ Bonteberg,” two right good dogs, came up, having heard the shots, and, perceiving the bastard gemboks, they gave chase. To my surprise, the wounded buck, instead of turning to bay, now set off at a rapid pace. He had not gone far, however, when he turned, and stood at bay for about a minute. 'T'wo or three more of the dogs heard their comrades barking, and came up te the buck, which then broke bay and made off through the bushes, and in another moment all was still. Jt was now almost dark, and I followed in the direction which the buck had held, when suddenly I heard a rushing noise, and in another instant the wounded buck met me face to Vou. I—N 290 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. face, closely pursued by five of the dops. He was mak- ing for the water, where he would have bayed, but I unluckily turned him. Owing to light rain which was falling at the moment, I had unfortunately slipped my rifle into a water-proof holster, which prevented my firing, and the buck held close past.the wagons, where more dogs joined in the chase. On reaching camp I inquired of the men if they had seen the buck,-and they answered Yes, but that he was not wounded. This I fancied must be the case, and that the dags had followed the fresh buck; and as two of them made their appearance, I thought that the af- fair was at anend. In the mean time, however, Klein- boy had seen the chase, and, hastily bridling a horse, had followed. He now rode breathless to the wagons, and reported that the buck was at bay beyond a low ridge within half a mile of camp, and that he was kill- ing the dogs right and left. Seizing my rifle, I mount- ed a horse and followed after Kleinboy in the dark. Presently I heard the music.of my pack, and on com- ing up I found the bastard gemsbok lying beaide a bush, with the dogs barking round him.. Three dogs that had followed me from camp, on seeing the buck lying, rush- ed in upon him, when he struck furiously right and left, and killed one dead on the spot, severely wounding the: other behind the shoulder; these were Vitfoot and Ar- gyll, two of my best dogs. Again he struck right and left, and knocked over Wolf and Flam with amazing violence, severely injuring their stomachs. He had killed Bles, my stoutest and fiercest dog, before I came up, the horn having entered his heart. It was a long: time before I could fire, for the night was dark, and the buck lay on the ground, with the surviving. dogs still pressing close around him. At length he stood up, RETURN TO SICOMY’S CAMP. 291 when J shot him dead with a single shot. He proved to be the wounded buck, having received my first shot in the shoulder. This was a first-rate specimen of the roan antelope, and carried a pair of superb cimeter- shaped horns, which were long and fairly set, and beau- tifully knotted. Before leaving Massouey two more noble giraffes fell before my rifle, also several fat elands and other varieties of game. _ After remaining in the neighborhood of the fountain for several days, and finding that it was entirely de- serted by the elephants, I determined to retrace my steps and seek for them beyond Bamangwato, and on ‘the 18th we again came to the camp of Sicomy upon the Rocky Mountains. I-found the king in a kraal which I had not hitherto visited. He was seated be- neath a low shady tree, with a few friends and some of his wives. A number of splendid koodoos’ skulls and horns lay rotting about the kraal, among, which were several pairs exceeding any I had yet beheld. Casting my eyes to the southeast, [ obtained a very distant view of the country in that direction. From the base of the mountain on which I stood stretched a dead-level park through a bold opening in the mount- ains. This park was regularly ornamented with groves and forest-trees, and extended without the slightest break or change as far as I could see. The scene ex- actly resembled the ocean when viewed from the sum- mit of some bold mountain standing near its shore. Having partaken of the king’s beer, I descended to my wagons, when we continued our march along the afore- said valley. I was accompanied by Sicomy’s brother ; and. on looking behind me as we proceeded; I beheld long strings of the natives following in our wake, and small detached parties kept pouring down from the 292 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. rocks and glens on every side, until my suite exceeded full two hundred men. We held a northerly course, and on the second day we reached Letlochee, a strong perpetual fountain, sit- uated in an abrupt and rocky ravine. This ravine lay in a range of low rocky hills, which were bounded on the north and west by a wide and gently-sloping basin or Hollow, diversified with extensive groves and open glades. This hollow extended to a breadth of from six to eight miles, and was much frequented by elands and giraffes, and beyond it stretched the boundless extent of the sandy Kalahari desert. Here I daily enjoyed excellent sport with these two varieties of game; but, though elephants occasionally visited the water, and we followed on their tracks to an amazing distance, we always failed to obtain a view of them. ~ On the forenoon of the 23d a native came and in- formedgme that he had discovered a white rhinoceros lying asleep in thick cover to the south. I accordingly accompanied him to the spot, and commenced stalking in upon the vast muchocho. He was lying asleep be- neath a shady tree, and his ‘appearance reminded me of an enormous hog, which in shape he slightly resem- bles. He kept constantly flapping his ears, which they invariably do when sleeping. Before I could reach the proper distance to fire, several “‘ rhinoceros birds,” by which he was attended, warned him of his impending danger by sticking their bills into his ear, and uttering their harsh, grating ery. Thus aroused, he suddenly sprang to his feet and crashed away through the jun- gle at a rapid trot, and I saw no more of him.* * These rhinoceros birds are constant attendants upon the hippopota- mus and the four varieties of rhinoceros, their object being to feed upon the ticks and other parasitic insects that swarm upon these animals. They are of a grayish color, and are neatly as large’as a common thrush; THE RHINOCEROS BIRD. 293 In the evening one of the parties sent out to seek for the spoor of elephants returned to camp, stating that a small tribe of Bakalahari, who resided in a range of mountains to the east, reported these beasts to frequent the forests in the vicinity of their abode, and Mutchu- isho, Sicomy’s uncle, who attended me while hunting his country, accordingly requested me to hold myself in readiness to accompany him in quest of the elephants at an early hour next day. It was customary with#me te console myself, when hope had almost died under a long-continued run of bad luck, by saying te myself that ‘‘ Patience will have her perfect work ;” thus mak- ing up my mind that.a man who is a good stalker and a fair rifle-shot must eventually obtain by perseverance whatever game he seeks to kill. But in the present instance things looked so bad that I had begun to think it not improbable that I might be compelled to- leave their voice is very similar to that of the mistletoe thrush. Many a time have these ever-watchful birds disappointed me in my stalk, and tempt- ed me to invoke an anathema upon their devoted heads. They are the best friends the rhinoceros has, and ‘rarely fail to awaken him even in his soundest nap. ‘‘Chukuroo” perfectly understands their warning, and, springing to his feet, he generally first looks about him in every direction, after which he invariably makes off. I have often hunted a rhinoceros on horseback, which led me a chase of many miles, and re- ‘quired a number of shots before he fell, during which chase several of these birds remained by the rhinoceros to the last. -They reminded me of mariners on the deck of some bark sailing on the ocean, for they perched along his back and sides;-and as each of my bullets told on the shoulder of the rhinoceros, they ascended about six feet into the air, uttering their harsh cry of alarm, and then resumed their position. It sometimes happened that the lower branches of trees, under which the rhinoceros passed, swept them from their living deck, but they al- ways recovered their former station; they also adhere to the rhinoceros during the night. I-have often shot these animals at midnight when drinking at the fountains, and the birds, imagining they were asleep, remained. with them till morning, and on my approaching, before tak ing flight, they exerted themselves to their utmost to awaken Chuku roo from his.deep sleep. 294 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. the Bamangwato country~without again even seeing what my heart so ardently desired, viz., an old bull ele- phant free in his native forests, and day and night I mourned my folly in losing the opportunity whieh I had neglected on the 27th day of June. But Patience will have her perfect work, and the day had at last arrived which was to repay my steady perseverance with complete success. At an early hour onthe 24th, upon the strength of the report brought to us on the preceding evening, I took the field with Isaac and Kleinboy as after-riders, accompanied by Mutchu- isho and a hundred and fifty of his tribe. We held a northeasterly course, and, having proceeded about five miles through the forest, reached a fountain, where I observed the spoor of a herd of cow elephants, two days old. Here we made a short halt, and snuff was briskly circulated, while the leading men debated on the course we were te follow, and it was agreed that we should hold for the Bakalahari kraal. Having continued our course for several miles, we rounded the northern ex- tremity of a range of rocky mountains which rose abruptly in the forest and stretched away to the south of east in a long-continued chain. Here we were met by men whom Mutchuisho had dispatched before day- break, who said that the Bakalahari women had that morning seen élephants. This was joyous news. My hopes were high, and I at once felt certain that the hour of triumph was at hand. But disappointment was still ° in store for me. We all sat down on the grass, while men were dispatched to bring the Bakalahari, and when these came we ascertained that it was only spoor and. not elephants they had seen. We held on for an in- spection of it; and here I was further to be disappoint- ed, the spoor proving to be two days old. SEARCH FOR ELEPHANTS. 295 » The country now before me was a vast level forest, extending to the north and east for about twenty miles without a break. At that distance, however, the land- scape was shut in by blue mountain ranges of consid. erable height, and two bold conical mountains standing close together rose conspicuous above the rest. These mountains the Bamangwato men informed me were their ancient habitation, and that of their forefathers, but the cruel Matabili had driven them from thence to the rocky mountains which they now occupy. We continued our course in an easterly direction, and twice erossed the gravelly bed of a periodical river, in which were several small springs of excellent water. These springs had been exposed by elephants, which had cleared away the gravel. with their trunks. Around these springs the spoor of rhinoceros was abundant. After proceeding several miles through a dry and bar- ren tract, where wait-a-bit thorns prevailed, we entered upon more interesting ground. The forest was adorned with very picturesque old trees of various sorts and sizes, which stood singly and in shady groups, while the main body of the forest consisted of a variety of trees of other sorts, averaging the height of a giraffe. The elephants had left abundant traces of their presence, but all the marks were old. Fresh spoor of giraffe was im- printed on the ground on every side, and we presently saw a large herd of these, standing scattered through the forest to our left. They were glorious fellows, but I was now in pursuit of nobler game: the natives —_ leading me-to some distant fountain, where they ex- pected we should. discover spoor. On we sped through the depths of the forest, our view being confined to about fifty yards on every side. Presently emerging upon a small open glade, I observed 296 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. a herd of brindled gnoos and two or three troops of pallahs; and soon after, a second herd of about fifteen camelopards stood browsing before us, and, getting our wind, dashed away to our left. We had proceeded about two miles further, and it was now within two hours of sunset, when, lo! a thorny tree, newly smashed by an elephant. . Some of the natives attentively examined the leaves of the broken branches to ascertain exactly when he had been there, while some for the same pur- pose overhauled the spoor. It was the spoor of a first- rate bull: he had fed there that morning at the dawn of day. The ground was hard and bad for spooring, but the natives evinced great skill, and, following it for a short distance, we came to ground where a troop of bull elephants had pastured no$.many hours before. Here the thorny trees on every side were demolished by them, and huge branches and entire trees were rent and uprooted, and lay scattered across our path, having been carried several yards in the trunks of the elephants before they stood to eat the leaves: the ground also was here and there plowed up by their tusks in quest of roots; and in these places the enormous fresh spoor —that thrilling sight to a hunter’s eye—was beauti- fully visible. oo All this was extremely interesting and gratifying; ¢ but I had been so often disappointed, and it was now so very near sunset, that I entertained but faint hopes of finding them that evening. Mutchuisho was very anxious that I should see the elephants; he had divest. ed himself of his kaross, and, carrying one of the mus- kets which Sicomy had bought from me, he led the spooring party, consisting of about fifteen cunning old hands. The great body of the men he had ordered: to sit down and remain quiet until the attack commenced DISCOVER A HERD OF BULL ELEPHANTS. 297 Having followed the spoor for a short distance, old Mutchuisho became extremely excited, and told me that we were close to the elephants. A few minutes after several of the spoorers affirmed that they had heard the elephants break a tree in advance ; they dif- fered, however, about the direction, some saying it was in front, and others that it was away to our left. Two or three men quickly ascénded the tallest trees that stood near us, but they could not see the elephants. Mutchuisho then extended men to the right and left, while we continued on the spoor. In a few minutes one of those who had gone off to our left came running breathless to say that he had seen the mighty game. I halted for a minute, and in- structed Isaac, who carried the big Dutch rifle, to act independently of me, while Kleinboy was to assist me in the chase ; but, as usual, when the row began, my followers thought only of number one. I bared my arms to the shoulder, and, having imbibed a draught of aqua pura from the calabash of one of the spoorers, I grasped my trusty two-grooved rifle, and told my guide to go ahead. We proceeded silently as might be for a-few hundred yards, following the guide, when he suddenly pointed, exclaiming, “ Klow!” and before us stood a herd of mighty bull elephants, packed together beneath a shady grove about a hundred and fifty yards in advance. I rode slowly toward them, and, as soon: as they observed me, they made a loud rumbling noise, and, tossing their trunks, wheeled right about and made off in one direction, crashing through the forest and leaving a cloud of dust behind them. I was accom- panied by a detachment of my dogs, who assisted me in the pursuit. The distance I had come, and’ the difficulties I kad N2 298 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. undergone, to behold these elephants, rose fresh before me. I determined that on this occasion at least I would do my duty, and, dashing my spurs into “ Sunday’s” ribs, I was very soon much too close in their rear-for safety. The elephants now made an inclination to my left, whereby I obtained a good view of the ivory. The herd consisted of six bulls; four of them were full- grown, first-rate elephants; the other two were fine fellows, but had not yet arrived at perfect stature. Of the four old fellows, two had much finer tusks than the rest, and for a few seconds I was undecided which of these two I would follow; when, suddenly, the one which I fancied had the stoutest tusks broke from his comrades, and I at once felt: convinced that he was the patriarch of the herd, and followed him accordingly. Cantering alongside, I was about to fire, when he in- stantly turned, and, uttering a trumpet so strong and shrill that the earth seemed to vibrate beneath my feet, he charged furiously after me for several hundreds yards in a direct line, not altering his course in the slightest degree for the trees of the forest, which he snapped and overthrew like reeds in his headlong career. ‘When he pulled up in-his charge, I likewise halted; and as he slowly turned to retreat, I let fly at his shoul- der, ‘‘Sunday” capering and prancing, and giving me much trouble. On receiving the ball the elephant shrug- ged his shoulder, and made off at a free majestic walk. This shot brought several of the dogs to my assistance which had been following the other elephants, and on their coming up and barking another headlong charge was the result, accompanied by the never-failing trum- pet as before. In his charge he passed close to me, when I saluted him with a second bullet in the shoul- der, of which he did not take the slightest notice. I THE CONFLICT. 299 now determined not to fire again until I could make a steady shot; but, although the elephant turned repeat- edly,-‘‘ Sunday” invariably disappointed me, capering so that it was impossible to fire. At length, exaspera- ted, I became reckless of the danger, and, springing from the saddle, approached the ‘elephant under cover of a tree, and gave him a bullet in the side of the head, when, trumpeting so shrilly that the forest trembled, he charged among the dogs, from whom he seemed to fancy that the blow had come ; after which he took up a position in a gtove of thorns, with his head toward me. I walled up very near, and, as he was in the act of charging (being in those days under wrong impres- sions as to the impracticability of bringing down an ele- phant with a shot in the forehead), stood coolly in his path until he was within fifteen paces of me, and let drive at the hollow of his forehead, in the vain expecta- tion-that by so doing I should end his career. The shot only served to increase his fury—an effect which, I had remarked, shots in the head invariably produced ; and, continuing his charge with incredible quickness and impetuosity, he all but terminated my elephant-hunt- ing forever. A. large party of the Bechuanas who had come up yelled out simultaneously, imagining I was " killed, for the elephant was at one moment almost: on the top of me: I, however, escaped by my activity, and by dodging round the bushy trees. As the elephant was charging, an enormous thorn ran deeprinto the sole of my foot, the old Badenoch brogues, which I that day sported, being worn through; and this caused me se- vere pain, laming me throughout the rest of the conflict. The elephant-held on through the forest at a sweep- ing pace; but he was hardly out of sight when I was loaded and in the saddle, and soon once more alongside. 300 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. About this time I heard Isaac blazing away at another bull; but when the elephant charged, his cowardly heart failed him, and he very soon made his appear- ance at a safe distance in myrear. My elephant kept crashing along at a steady pace, with blood streaming from his. wounds; the dogs, which were knocked up with fatigue and thirst, no longer barked around him, but had dropped: astern. It was long before I again fired, for I was afraid to dismount, and “Sunday” was extremely troublesome. At length I fired sharp right and left from the saddle: he got both balls behind the shoulder, and made.a long charge after: me, rumbling and trumpeting as before. The whole body of the Ba- mangwato men had now come up, and were following a short distance behind me. Among these was Moll- yeon, who volunteered to-help ;- and being a very swift and active fellow, he rendered me important service by holding my fidgety horse’s head while I fired and load- ed. I -then fired six broadsides from the saddle, the elephant charging almost every time, and pursuing us back to the main body in our rear, who fled in all di- rections as he approached. The sun had now sunk behind the tops of the trees : it would very soon be dark, and the elephant did not seem much distressed, notwithstanding all he had re- ceived. I recollected that my time was short, and therefore at once resolved to fire no more from the sad- dle, but to go close‘up to him and fire on foot. Riding up to him, I dismounted and, approaching very near, J gave it him right and left in the side of the head, upon which he made a long and determined charge after me; but I was now very reckless of his charges, for I saw that he could not overtake me, and in a twinkling J was loaded, and, again approaching, fired sharp right THE CONQUEST. 301 and left behind his shoulder. Again he charged with a terrific trumpet, which.sent ‘‘ Sunday” flying through the forest. This was his last charge. TH® wounds which he had received began to tell on his constitution, and he now stood at bay beside a thorny tree, with the dogs barking around him, These, refreshed by the evening breeze, and perceiving that it was nearly over with the elephant, had once more come to my assist- ance. Having loaded, I drew near and fired right and left at his forehead. On receiving these shots, instead of charging, he tossed his trunk up and down, and by various sounds and motions, most gratifying to the hun- gry natives, evinced that his demise was near. Again I loaded, and fired my last shot behind his shoulder; on receiving it, he turned round the bushy tree beside which he stood, and I ran round to give him the other barrel, but the mighty old monarch of the forest needed no more; before I could clear the bushy tree he fell heavily on his side, and. his spirit had fled. My feel- ings at this moment can only be understood by a few brother Nimrods who have had the good fortune to en- joy a similar encounter. I never felt so gratified on any former occasion as I did then. By this time all the natives had come up; they were in the highest spirits, and flocked around the elephant, laughing and talking at a rapid pace. I climbed on to “him, and sat enthroned upon his side, which was as high as my eyes when standing on the ground. In a few minutes night set in, when the natives, having illu- minated the jungle with a score of fires, and formed a semicircle of bushes to windward, lay down to rest without partaking of a morsel of food. Mutchuisho would not allow a man to put an assagai into the ele- phant until the morrow, and placed two relays of sen- 302 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. tries to keep watch on either side of him. My dinner consisted.of a piece of flesh from the temple of the ele- phant, Which I broiled on the hot embers. In the con- flict I had lost my shirt, which was reduced to stream- ers by the wait-a-bit thorns, and all the clothing that remained was a pair of buckskin knee-breeches. The night was very cold,-it being now the dead of the African winter. Having collected dry grass, I spread it beside my fire, and lay down for the night with no other covering than an old sheep-skin which I had used for a saddle-cloth. Shortly after I had drop- ped asleep, Mutchuisho, commiserating my bare condi- tion, spread an old jackal kaross over me. This kaross, as all Bechuana garments are, was thickly tenanted by small transparent insects, usually denominated lice. These virnlent creatures, probably finding’ my skin more tender than that of the owner of the kaross, seen- ed resolved to enjoy a banquet while they could; and presently I awoke with my whole body so poisoned and inflamed that I felt as if attacked with a severe fever. All further rest that night was at an end. I returned the ‘kaross to Mutchuisho, with grateful acknowledg- ments for his polite intentions; and piling dry wood on the fire, which emitted a light as bright as day, I aroused the slumbering Kleinboy to assist me in turning my. buckskins outside in, when an animating “ chasse” commenced, which terminated in the capture of about fourscore of my white-currant colored visitors. I then it another fire opposite to the first, and spent the re- mainder of the night squatted between the two, thus imbibing caloric before and behind. As the sun rose on the morning of the 25th, Mut- chuisho gave the word to cut up the elephant, when @ scene of blood, noise, and turmoil ensued which baffles CUTTING UP THE ELEPHANT. 303 all description. Every native there, divested of his kaross and armed with an assagai, rushed to the on- slaught; and in less than two hours every inch of the elephant was gone, and carried by the different parties to their respective temporary locations, which they had chosen beneath each convenient tree that grew around. The manner in which the elephant is cut up is as ‘follows: The rough outer skin is first removed, in large sheets, from the side which lies uppermost. Several coats of an under skin are then met with. This skin is of a tough and pliant nature, and is used by the na- tives for making water-bags, in which they convey sup- plies of water from the nearest vley or fountain (which is often ten miles distant) to the elephant. They re- move this inner skin with caution, taking care not to cut it with the assagai; and it is formed into water- bags by gathering the corners and edges, and transfix- ing the whole on a pointed wand. The flesh is then removed in enormous sheets from the ribs, when the hatehets come into play; with which they chop through, and remove individually, each colossal.rib. The bow- els are thus laid bare; and in the removal of these the leading men take a lively interest and active part, for it is throughout and around the bowels that the fat of the elephant is mainly found. There are few things which a Bechuana prizes so highly as fat of any description ; they will go an amaz- ing distance for a small portion of it. They use it principally in cooking their sun-dried biltongue, and they also eat it with their corn. ‘The fat of the ele- phant lies in extensive layers and sheets in his inside, and the quantity which is obtained from a full-grown: bull, in high condition, is very great. Before it can be obtained, the greater part of the bowels must be re-. 304 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. moved. To accomplish this, several men eventually enter the immense cavity of his inside, where they continue mining away with their assagais, and hand- ing the fat to their comrades outside until all is bare, While this is transpiring with the sides and bowels, other parties are equally active in removing the skin and flesh from the remaining parts of the carcass. The natives have a horrid practice on these occasions of be- smearing their bodies, from the crown of the head to the sole of the foot, with the black and clotted gore; and in this anointing they assist one another, each man tak- ing up the fill in both his hands, and spreading it.over the back and shoulders of his friend. Throughout the entire proceeding an incessant and deafening clamor of many voices and confused sounds is maintained, and violent jostling and. wrestling are practiced by every man, elbowing the breasts and countenances of his fel- lows, all slippery with gore, gs he éndeavors to force his way to the venison through the dense intervening ranks, while the sharp and ready assagai gleams in every hand. The angry voices and gory appearances of these naked savages, combined with their excited and frantic gestures and glistening arms, presented an effect so wild and striking, that when I first beheld the scene I contemplated it in the momentary expectation of beholding one half of the gathering turn their weap- ons against the other. The trunk and feet are considered a delicacy, and a. detachment are employed on these. The four feet ara amputated at the fetlock joint, and the trunk, which at the base is about two feet in thickness, is cut into con- venient lengths. ‘Trunk and feet are then baked, pre- paratory to their removal to head-quarters. The man- ner in which this is done is as follows: A party, pro- BAKING ELEPHANT’S FLESH. 305 vided with sharp-pointed sticks, dig a hole in the ground for each foot and a portion of the trunk. These holes are-about two feet deep, and a yard in width; the ex- cavated earth is embanked around the margin of the hole. This work being completed, they next collect an immense quantity of dry branches and trunks of trees, of which there is always a profusion scattered around, having been broken by the elephants in former years. These they pile above the holes to the height of eight or nine feet, and then set fire to the heap. When these strong fires have burned down, and the whole of the ‘wood is reduced to ashes, the holes and the surround- ing earth are heated in a high degree. ‘Ten or twelve men then stand reund the pit, and rake out the ashes with a pole about sixteen feet in length, having a hook at the end. They relieve one another in quick succes- sion, each man running in and raking the ashes for a few seconds, and then pitching. the pole to his comrade and retreating, since the heat is so intense that it is scarcely to be endured. "When all the ashes are thus raked out beyond the surrounding bank of earth, each elephant’s fooand portion of the trunk is lifted by two athletic men, standing side by side, who place it on their shoulders, and, approaching the pit together, they heave it into it. The long pole is now again resumed, and with it they shove in the heated bank of earth upon the foot, shoving and raking until it is completely bur- ied in the earth. The hot embers, of which there is always a great supply, are then raked into a heap above the foot, and anéther bonfire is kindled over each, which ‘is allowed to burn down and die a natural death, by which time the enormous foot or trunk will be found to be equally baked throughout its inmost parts. When the foot is supposed to be ready, it is taken out of the 306 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. ground with pointed sticks, and is first well beaten, and then scraped with an assagai, whereby adhering particles of sand are got rid of The outside is then pared off, and it is transfixed with a sharp stake for facility of carriage. .. The feet, thus cooked, are excellent, as is also the trunk, which very much resembles buffalo’s tongue. The reason why such large fires are requisite is owing to the mass of the flesh that must be baked, In rak- ing the sand on the foot, the natives are careful not to rake the red-hot embers in with it, which would burn and destroy the meat; whereas the sand or earth pro- tects it, imparting an even and steady heat. When the natives have cut up the elephant, and removed the large masses of flesh, &c., to their respective temporary kraals around, they sit down for a little to rest and draw their breath, and for a short time smoking and snuffing are indulged in. The Bechuana pipe is of a very primitive description, differing from any I had ever seen. When they wish to smoke they moisten a.spot of earth, not being par- ticular whence they obtain the water. (to this earth they insert a green twig, bent into a semicircle, whose bend is below the said earth, and both ends protruding.. They then knead the moist earth down with their knuckles on the twig, which they work backward and forward until a hole is.established, when the twig. is withdrawn, and one end of the aperture is enlarged with the fingers, so as to form a bowl to-contain the tobacco. The pipe is thus finished and ready forimmediate use, when tobaceo and fire are introduced, and the smoker drops'on his knees, and, resting on the palms of his hands, he brings his lips in contact, with the mud at the small end of the hole, and thus inhales the grateful RESULTS OF THE HUNT. 307 fumes. Large volumes of smoke are emitted through the nostrils, while a copious flow of tears from the eyes of the smoker evinces the pleasure he enjoys. One of these pipes will serve a large party, who replenish the bowl and relieve one another in succession. The natives, having drawn their breath, once more devote their attention to the flesh, which they next re- duce to biltongue, cutting every morsel into thin strips from six to twenty feet in length. These strips are of the breadth and thickness of a man’s two fingers. When all is reduced to biltongue, they sally forth with their tomahawks, and cut down a number of poles of two sorts, for uprights and cross-poles. The uprights are eight feet long, and forked at one end. They place them upright in the ground around their respective trees, laying the cross-poles resting on the forks, and these are adorned with” endless garlands of the raw meat, which is permitted to hang in the sun for two or three days, when it will have lost much of its weight, and be stiff and easy-to be carried. They then remove the biltongue from the poles, and, folding it together, they form it into bundles, which are strongly lashed and secured with long strips of the tough inner bark of thorny mimosas. Their work in the forest is now completed, and, each man‘placing one bundle on his head, and sliriging several others across his shoulders, returns to his wife and family. at head-quarters. The appearance which the flesh of a single elephant exhibits when reduced to strips and suspended from the poles is truly surprising, the forest far around display- ing-a succession of ruby festoons, and reminding one of a-vineyard laden with its clustering fruits. When the skull of my elephant was ready for the ax, Mutchuisho caused a party to hew out for me the tusks—a work of 308 ADVENTURES IN SOUTIT AFRICA. great labor, and needing considerable skill. In the pres- ent instance the work was clumsily executed, the na- tive hacking and injuring the ivory in removing. the bone with their little tomahawks. In consequence of this, I invariably afterward performed the task myself, using superior American hatchets, which I had provid- ed expressly for the purpose. “When the tusks had been extracted, I saddled up and started for the camp, ac- companied by my after-riders and a party of the natives bearing the ivory, with a supply of baked foot and trunk and a portion of the flesh. The natives had appropri- ated all the rest, and when I left them they were quar- reling over the remnant of the skull, whose marrowy bones were in high demand. They fought for every chip as it flew from the ax, and chewed it raw. On our way to. camp we passed through the kraal of the Bakalahari, situated in the mountain range. In the valleys they had formed considerable gardens, in which corn and water-melons were extensively grown. I was right glad to reach my comfortable camp, and get a bow! of coffee. On the evening of the 26th men kept pouring into camp heavily laden with the flesh of the elephant, a large part of which was for Sicomy: they halted with me for the night, and resumed their march in the morning. TREACHERY OF ISAAC. 309 CHAPTER XVI. .Elephant Spooring with the Natives—The Mystic Dice—Hunt in a Wait-a-bit Thorn Cover—Romantic Gorge in the Mountains—Sabié —Ancient Elephant Path — Ludicrous Native Signal—A noble Bull Elephant slain—Isaac, my Interpreter, dismissed—A Lioness bagged at one Shot—Drunkenness and Disorder in Carap—My Manner of taking the Field after the larger Game—Sicomy’s Followers desert me. On the 27th of July I resolved to move my wagons further to the east, and informed the wagon-drivers of my intentions: they, however, raised many objections, and all but gave me a direct refusal. As I was not aware of the position of the waters, and knowing well that Isaac would not assist me in discovering them, I deem- ed it prudent first to make an excursion to the east on horseback. Iaccordingly stowed some ammunition and a washing-rod in my old game-bag (to the inside of which, by-the-by, adheréd'a goodly coating of the scales of grilse and salmon, along with sundry speckled and blood-stained feathers of the grouse and partridge), and having made'bread and ground coffee sufficient for three days’ consumption, I ordered two of my men to be ready to accompany me next morning. My interpreter’s countenance never lacked a scowl; and, instead of for- warding my interests, he actively employed his ener- gies in sowing dissension between me and the natives, and disseminating mutiny among my Hottentots. I discovered that all along he had deceived me, and care- fully concealed the direction where elephants most abounded, and I began to think that, in justice to my- 310 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. self, it was high time that he should be ignominiously dismissed fhe service. On the 28th, as I was breakfasting, natives arrived and reported fresh spoor within a mile of camp. I there- fore resolved to defer for the present the trip to the east- ward on which I had determined; but it so happened that the spoor which was reported led me in that direc- tion, and was the means of introducing me to a succes- sion of fine hunting districts, throughout which ele- phant and rhinoceros were abundant. Every thing be- ing ready, I proceeded to take up the spoor, accompani- ed by after-riders and about a hundred of the Baman- gwato men, fresh parties having joined me: it was the spoor of a small troop of cow. elephants, Muichuisho and the spooring party took it up in a masterly man- ner, and went along at a rapid pace all day, with scarcely a check, until we found the elephants. The spoor led us first through a gorge in the mountains, which I mentioned as having rounded on the 24th; after which we followed it in an easterly course, skirt- ing the base of the mountain chain. The country in- creased in beauty as we advanced; and, having follow- ed the spoor some hours, it led us into a new variety of country, and, as I fancied, into a new climate. Here large trees were abundant, and the grass and leaves were much greener than in the country we had left behind. We crossed the gravelly beds of two period- ical rivers. In one of these I observed the recent spoor of a heard of bull elephants deeply imprinted in the sand. This day the wind, which had for weeks been cold and blighting, blowing off the icebergs of the South- ern Ocean, shifted to northeast, and breathed warm and balmy upon us. As we advanced the work of elephants became more THE MYSTIC DICE. @ 311 and more apparent on the trees and in the earth, and late in the afternoon we reached ground where a. large herd of cows had fed that morning. Here we had a short check, when Mutchuisho rated the trackers: for their negligence; and, having dispatched parties to try backeupon the spoor, and extended others to make casts on our right and left, he leisurely ensconced himself be- neath a shady tree, and proceeded, along with several of his cronies, to enjoy the luxury of taking snuff, which important ceremony having been duly perform- ed, they began with the utmost gravity to smooth a portion of the ground before them, preparatory to cast- ing the mystic dice which most of the Bechuanas carry strung around their necks. ‘These dice, which are of sundry indescribable shapes, are formed_of ivory, and the Bechuanas invariably appeal to them before enter- ing upon any project of importance, to ascertain the probability. of its ultimate success. Having unstrung the dice, which are four in number, they rattle them between their hands, and drop them on the. ground, when the long-headed old men carefully study the di. rections of the points, and decide the merits of the case accordingly. ; 8 In the present instance the dice. spoke favorably, au- guring the speedy capture of an elephant; and one of.- the trackers at this moment coming up, and stating that his comrades had regained the spoor, we sprang to our feet and again held on. We had proceeded about half a mile.when we suddenly beheld a herd of about twelve old cow elephants, some of which were accom- panied by little calves, feeding high on the side of the rocky mountain, about five hundred yards to our right. The intervening ground was a dense and almost im: penetrable mass of wait-a-bit thorny’ bushes, averaging 312 AD@ENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. twenty feet in height, every inch of which was to be dreaded as the hooks upon a “ kill-devil.” On perceiv- ing the elephants, we halted, and Mutchuisho dispatch- ed two men to windward, in the hope of driving them from the impracticable ground they occupied into the level forest where we stood. The elephants, how€ver, were much too wide awake to leave their strong-hold of wait-a-bit bushes. On getting the wind of the men -they tossed their trunks, and, wheeling about, held along the mountain side at a rapid pace, until they reached an impenetrable jungle of thorns, from which all our efforts proved unavailing to dislodge them. This jungle densely covered the sides and bottom of a wide semicircular basin or hollow in the mountains; it was throughout so dense that a man on foot could scarcely penetrate it. When the elephants started I rode hard after them, followed by my after-riders, and, not understanding the intentions of the elephants, we followed on through the mazes of the jungle in an ele- phant path until we reached the center of the thicket, when we suddenly found ourselves upon them. The dogs then ran in barking, when a general trumpeting took place, and a charging and crashing in all direc- tions, and, owing to the extremely dangerous nature of the ground, I was glad to beat a precipitate retreat. Once more all was quiet; my dogs were jaded with the sun, and would not fight. Fancying that the ele- phants had gone ahead, and fearing to lose them, I again pushed on, holding the foot-path as before, when crash came a second charge of elephants at our very elbows, accompanied by a trumpeting which caused our ears to tingle. They charged upon us from opposite direc- tions, and we were actually in the very middle of them. They were extremely fierce, and, but for the dogs, not A PERILOUS SITUATION. 313 a man of us had escaped to tell the tale. Fortunately, the dogs, which they seemed to think designed the eap- ture of their calves, engrossed their whole attention ; whereas, by reason of the color of the horses on which we rode, they took us for gregarious creatures like them- selves,and actually grazing our animals’ haunches with their legs, they left us scatheless and pursued the dogs. I seldom remember a more startling or dangerous po- sition ; it was a decided case of “ De’il tak the hin’. most.” Spurs and jamboks were energetically plied ; there waseno time to select a path. Placing my head below my horse’s neck and trusting to Providence, I charged through the thickest of the thorns, and pres- ently found myself out of the way of the elephants. 1 know nothing which so effectually teaches a hunter the art of riding through “Vacht um bigé,” or “ wait-a- bit” jungle, in an artistical manner, as hearing the trumpet of an enraged elephant, which is following about a spear’s length inhis wake. After a few such lessons he will have learned to bring his breast in contact with the side of his horse’s neck, his head being well under it, whereby his prominent feature will be secured, and, agitating his persuaders, he will dive through the most impracticable “ wait-a-bits” with apparently the facil- ity with which an Eton boy takes a header into the Thames at the Lion’s Leap. 7 With very great difficulty, we got clear of the cover and gained the level forest on the lower side. BY this time the natives had lined the side of the mountain above the cover, and were shouting and yelling in the hope of driving out the elephants; but not a man would venture in. Presently some of them came round to me, and I proposed to go in on foot, but they would not hear of it, saying that the elephants were extremely fierce, Vou. I—O 314 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. and would kill me to a certainty. I then proposed that ‘ all the natives should enter the jungle in a line, and try to drive them out; but they said that no power could force the elephants from their strong-hold until night set in. The elephants now shifted their ground a little, fore- ing their way through the jungle to the higher side of the basin. Leaving the horses in charge of a native, I ‘went round to the line of men above. Here I command- ed a fine view of the exasperated elephants, being high above them, and distant about two hundred and fifty yards, and I observed that they displayed considerable cunning in their movements. Placing my rifle on a forked branch, and giving it the proper elevation, I let drive at the nearest cow, and wounded her severely. The shot reverberated through the dale, and the dogs once more ran into the midst of them, when a general charge and trumpeting ensued, which was truly ter- rific. They rushed after the dogs, following them up to a great distance, crashing through and upsetting the high, bushy wait-a-bits and other trees like grass. They then turned and formed in two separate detachments, standing thick together ; but two wicked old cows that had calves stood far out from the others, with their heads turned to us, ready to charge whatever might approach. I saw that it was extremely dangerous to attagk them; but the sun was now fast sinking behind a shoulder of the mountains, so I resolved to defy. all chances and enter the cover. I first, however, fired two shots at the elephants that formed the advanced pick- ets; both cows got it in the ribs, and, finding them- selves wounded, retreated to the main body, where they stood smashing the trees with rage, and, catching up volumes of the red dust with their trunks, threw it in EXCITING HUNT. 315 clouds above their backs. Mutchuisho and I now de- scended into the jungle, and crept stealthily along, list- ening for the breathing of the elephants. They had moved to the lower side, and were standing thick to- gether within one hundred yards of the outside. On ascertaining their position, we emerged from the cover, and followed along the outside until we were opposite them. I then stalked in within twenty yards, and fired at the side of the head of the elephant that stood next to me; and before the smoke had cleared, my back was to them, and I was running for the outside of the cover at my utmost speed. 'The elephants held their ground ; so, having loaded, I again drew near, and fired sharp right and left into another, and, turning my back, ran for it once more. Re-entering the cover a third time, I was listening which way they had gone, when, cast- ing my eyes to the left, a noble elephant lay dead be- fore me. The ball had penetrated to her brain, and she had dropped dead upon the spot. A little after this an old cow came charging after the dogs, and took up a position in the jungle close beside us. We heard her preparing for a second charge, when the natives beat a precipitate retreat; but I very rashly waited to receive her, and just as she cleared the cover I let fly at her forehead. Regardless of my shot, she came down upon-me at a tremendous pace, shrilly trumpeting. It was rather a near thing, for I was bur- dened with my rifle and rhinoceros-horn loading-rod, and my shooting-belt containing about forty rounds of ammunition. I escaped her by my speed, and the in stant she halted I faced about, and gave her the other barrel behind the shoulder. Night now set in, and I saw no more of the ele- phants. A number of them were wounded and must ad 816 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. have died; I, however, felt satisfied with the one I had secured. The natives made me more cautious than I should otherwise have been, and, had we found them at an earlier hour, I should probably have killed one half the troop. Weary and hungry, we formed our kraals and kindled fires; after which, having pattaken of the elephant, I lay down to sleep beside my fire. On the 29th I sent Carollus to the wagons with in- structions to bring all the horses and the Bushman, with bread, coffee, and ammunition. In the forenoon T ascended the neighboring mountain range to obtain a view of the surrounding country. On clearirig the first ridge I looked down upon a bold and romantic gorge, which here intersected the mountain chain, connecting the forests on either side. Far below me, through’ the bottom of the ravine, twined the gravelly bed of a peri- odical river, which in the rainy season flows in an east- erly direction. Though in all other parts this gravelly channel was now dry, yet just at this spot, deep in the bosom of the mountains, its bed was covered with de- licious spring water to a depth of several inches; and here the elephants had excavated sundry holes, about two feet deep, for the purpose of drinking. I descend- ed to the water by an elephant path, and stood long ° contemplating the interesting spot. The bed of the river was deeply imprinted with the spoor of elephants, buffaloes, and rhinocéros, of various dates. ‘The gorge was wide and open by the water, and its abrupt and rocky sides were adorned with a profusion of trees and shrubs. A little further down the gorge was more con- fined,-the river winding through huge perpendicular walls of rock, that raised their giant forms on both sides to a height of several hundred feet. From the basis of these stupendous ramparts to the ROMANTIC SCENERY. 317 margin of the river on either side was a sloping bank, along which grew an avenue of picturesque acacias of enormous bulk and lofty stature ; beneath these were well-beaten paths of elephants, and the sides of the trees were well polished to the usual distance from the ground. Leaving the river, I ascended to the sum- mits of loftier hills beyond, where I commanded a glori- ous prospect of the endless gray forests which stretched away as far as I could see over slightly undulating coun- try, the faint blue outline of extensive mountain ranges bounding the landscape to the east. Descending from my lofty station, I discovered four bull buffaloes feeding in the valley far beneath me; I left them undisturbed, and bent my steps toward the carcass of the elephant. In the evening Carollus arrived, bringing the horses and ammunition, and accompanied by a numerous body of the natives. At an early hour on the 30th I started with Mutchuisho and a numerous retinue to search for elephants in an easterly direction, and we crossed the gravelly bed of the River Mahalapia, about a mile be- low the gorge I had visited on the preceding day. In after years I renewed my acquaintance with the Maha- lapia, on the banks of the fair Limpopo, into which it empties itself several days’ journey to the east. This was one of the loveliest spots I had seen in Southern Africa: a bold bend of the river was adorned with groves of remarkably lofty and picturesque aca- cias. Three trees in particular, of the same descrip- tion, graced the spot, which in size and beauty surpass- ed any I had hitherto met with, carrying their thick- ness to an immense height from the ground, when they divided into goodly branches, which stretched away in beauty to the skies. Here, in the bed of the river, we took up the spoor 318 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. of a huge bull elephant, and, having followed it a short distance through the verdant forest, we started the old fellow, but no man saw him. The great body of the natives never would be quiet, and ever pressed upon the spooring party, notwithstanding my remonstrances. One native heard him, but said he thought it was a rhi- noceros. In half a minute, however, we discovered our mistake, and there ensued a general rush apon the spoor, at a pace which must shortly have overtaken him, for he had not started in great alarm. Whistling to my dogs, they took up the scent and went ahead; but as I galloped after them, expecting every instant to behold the elephant, whose spoor I now saw beneath my horse’s feet, an-unlucky troop of camelopards dash- ed across our path, and away went all the dogs, leaving me in the lurch just as I was upon the elephant. The trackers, howevér, soon came up, and we again held briskly on, but had not proceeded far when we entered upon ground so covered with fresh footmarks that the trackers in their haste overran the spoor we followed, and a long check was the result. Here, to add to my annoyance, another large herd of camelopards came cantering up the wind, and dashed away before us, to spread further alarm. Old Mutchuisho now came up in a state of intense excitement, his watery eyes fixed upon the ground, and his tongue going like perpetual motion. He blew up the trackers right and left, who seemed to quail before his menacing aspect, and re- doubled their energies in the doubtful pursuit. Pres- ently one of these, loudly smacking his “‘ nether end,” intimated that he had hit off the proper spoor. This peculiar signal, I remarked, was used by the Bechuanas to warn one another on various occasions. In spoor- ing game it was invariably practiced ; and when a line A NOBLE BULL ELEPHANT BAGGED, 319 of men were thridding the mazes of the forest, each warned the man behind him of any rough sticks, stones, or thorns which lay across the path, by the same ele- gant and friendly gesture. We resumed the spoor at a rapid pace, with a wide- ly-extended front, and presently on my left I heard the joyous signal of the presence, “ Klow;” and, cantering in that direction, I came full in sight of an enormous bull elephant, marching along at a free majestic pace, and in another minute I was riding by his side. The horse which I bestrode on this occasion was “The Cow,” one of my best and steadiest shooting-horses ; and the forest being tolerably suited for the sport, I was not long in finishing the elephant. I fired thirteen bul- lets at his head and shoulder ;. on receiving the last two shots sharp right and left chin the shoulder, he made a rapid charge, and disappeared among the trees. Cau- tiously following, I discovered him lying in an upright position, with his two fore legs stretched out before him. Fancying he was still alive, I fired both barrels at his ear; but, though the balls rang loudly on his venera- ble head, the noble elephant heeded not their force; his ancient spirit had departed. This was a very large old elephant; but his tusks were much destroyed, being worn down, and having been breken (probably in rocky ground) in former years. Mutchuisho appeared in the highest glee, and dispatch- ed messengers through the ‘gorge in the mountains, the name of which is Sabié, to advise Sicomy of the death of the elephant. The chase had led me to within rifle- range of the three veteran acacias J admired in the morn- ing. Infade my bower and a couch of grass beneath a shady wait-a-bit thorn-tree, and encircled my fire with a hedge of the same description. 320 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. I resolved to bring on my wagons to the pass of Sa- bié, where there was sufficient water for all my cattle, my intention being to continue hunting through the forests to the eastward, returning to Bamangwato by a different route. I, however, foresaw that I must give Isaac his dismissal before proposing such a meas- ure; and, accordingly, I rede to camp on the Ist day of August, and informed Mr. Isaac that his valuable services could for the future be dispensed with, request- ing, at the same time, that he would make himself scarce as quickly as possible. I then explained to my Hottentots my future course; and having directed them to inspan and follow me to Sabié, under guid- ance of the natives, I mounted the Old Gray, and start- ed to return to my bower on the bank of the Mahala- pia. The country between Letlochee and Sabié was almost impracticable for wagons, the forest in many parts being extremely dense, and sundry difficult nul- lahs intervening. I therefore did not expect them to reach their destination till the aftertioon of the follow- ing day. My men, however, did not appear until the evening of the third day. They did not seem at all to fancy the idea of following me further through the wil- derness; but, finding they could make no better of it, they submitted to their fate; and no sooner had I turn- ed my back, than Mr. Kleinboy proposed that they- should drown their sorrows in the bowl. This brilliant idea was unanimously seconded by all the rest. Axes and hatchets were immediately. resorted to, the liquor was obtained, and before I had been gone an hour all hands were mortal drunk. At an early hour on the following day I started with about sixty natives to look for elephants. We filled our water kalabashes at an elephant’s hole in the bed A LIONESS SHOT. 321 of the Mahalapia, and held east through the forest, and presently we discovered the fresh spoor of two bull ele- phants. As we were thridding the spoor, the dogs dashed up wind on some scent, and the forest was awakened with their music. I imagined they had found the elephants, and pressed through the thicket at my utmost speed. As I approached I heard a hoarse noise like the voice of an elephant ; but my eye sought in vain for his lofty back towering above the wait-a-bits. I then fancied it must be a buffalo; but on rounding the thick bush, behind which my dogs were barking, I came full in sight of an angry lioness, which stood lashing her tail, and growling fiercely at the dogs. Observing the lioness, I shouted to the natives, who were pressing forward, that it was “'Tao,” when a head- long retreat was the immediate result, a number of the party taking refuge in the trees. I dismounted, and, advancing to within twenty yards of the lioness, waited till she turned her head, when I fired at the back of her neck, and stretched her lifeless on the ground. The bullet had passed along the spine, and, penetrating tha skull, rested in her brain. On shouting to the natives for a long time none of them would venture to approach and when at length they did, their astonishment kne~ no bounds at beholding their formidable enemy so easy disposed of. Having resumed the spoor of the elephants, we soon ascertained that the hubbub with the lioness had started them; and after following the spoor some distance through dense jungle, and over very rocky ground, along the mountain side, the trackers declared themselves to be fairly beaten, and we gave it up. _ At an early-hour on the 3d I again held east with a . large retinue to seek for elephants. We took up spoor at the fountains where I discovered borélé on the pre- O2 — 322 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. ceding day. This spoor led us in a southeasterly course, first through verdant forest, and then over an extreme- ly rugged ridge that stretched into the forest from the mountain chain. Beyond this ridge was an extensive and almost impracticable jungle of wait-a-bit thorns, and in this jungle we now heard the rumbling sound of elephants. As we advanced, I perceived from the nature of the ground that success was very doubtful, and in a few minutes the dogs, winding the elephants, ran in upon them and gave tongue; a crashing and trumpeting ensued, and all the natives shouted out “‘Machoa” (signifying white man). With the utmost difficulty I pressed through the jungle, and obtained a view of one of the elephants, around which my dogs were barking angrily; but perceiving that it was a small cow, and knowing well that if I shot her the na- tives would not take up spoor again for at least a couple of days, I reserved my fire; and the dogs being jaded by the sun, and returning to my call, we left the ele- phants to their own devices. A few minutes afterward we discovered the fresh spoor of two enormous bull elephants, which had pas- tured toward the hills. Having followed it a short dis- tance, we came upon some dung, the outside of which the sun had not yet dried, from which we might pre- sume that the elephants were at that moment in the same valley with ourselves. ‘wo young men were dispatched in haste to ascend the beetling crags of the adjacent mountain, from which they could obtain a bird’s-eye view of the length and breadth of that and the surrounding valleys. Tho main body of the natives squatted on the ground, and I sat down to eat some bread and elephant, and take a drink of water. I had . scarcely time to finish my luncheon when the two young DISORDER IN THE CAMP. 323 men returned breathless with excitement to report that they had discovered the two bull elephants browsing in a grove of thorny trees on the mountain side within a quarter of a mile of us. I approached under cover of a bushy tree, on clearing which I beheld two of the finest elephants in Africa standing broadside on within fifty yards. The finer of these had one of his tusks broken short off by the lip; I therefore chosé his comrade, which carried a pair of very long and perfect tusks. I had hard work with this elephant, and the sun was under before I laid him low. On the 4th I rode for my bower on the Mahalapia, in the hope of finding my wagons waiting for me; but I had misgivings about my men, who ought to have appeared on the evening of the 2d. On reaching my bower where the former elephant had died, I found the fires still smoking, but every man had disappeared: Carollus, whom I had ordered to await me, had vanished with the rest. I now fancied that I must have missed the natives who had passed me on their way to the ele- phant of the previous day, and that Carollus had joined the wagons wherever they might be. I was right in my conjecture, and presently, on firing a signal shot, I received an answer from the wagons, which were drawn up in the romantic gorge of Sabié, as near as might be to the water. Drunkenness and disorder had prevailed during my absence, as I had feared; my chests were broken open, the fine captents of both my wagons were most seriously damaged, oxen had been lost, and horses ridden off their legs in search of them. It appeared that Mr. Kleinboy had been the chief delinquent. Un- der. the influence of the liquor, and anxious to distin- guish himself, he had resolved to try his hand in hunt- ing the giraffe. Accordingly, he saddled Colesberg, my 324 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. favorite steed, and borrowed one of my eighty guinea rifles, armed with which he had sped through the for est he knew not whither ; and eventually becoming be wildered, he had lost himself entirely. In this condi tion he was fortunately discovered by a party of Bake lahari, who conducted him safely to my camp. Thad at length got into the way of making mysel, tolerably comfortable in the field, and from this date 1 seldom went in quest of elephants without the follow- ing impedimenta, viz., a large blanket, which I folded and secured before my saddle, as a dragoon does his cloak ; and two leather sacks, containing a flannel shirt, warm trowsers, and a woollen night-cap, spare ammunition, washing-rod, coffee, bread, sugar, pepper and salt, dried meat, a wooden bowl, and a tea-spoon. These sacks were carried on the shoulders of the na- tives, for which service I remunerated them with beads. They also carried my coffee-kettle, two calabashes ot water, two American axes, and two sickles, which ] used every evening to cut grass for my bed, and like wise for my horses to eat throughout the night. My after-rider carried extra ammunition and a spare rifle , and my own personal appointments consisted of a wide- awake hat, secured under my chin by “ rheimpies,” or strips of dressed skin, a coarse linenby shirt, sometimes a kilt, and sometimes a pair of buckskin knee-breeches, and a pair of “ veldt-schoens,” or home-made shoes. I entirely discarded coat, waistcoat, and neck-cloth, and I always hunted with my arms bare. My heels were armed with a pair of powerful persuaders, and from my left wrist depended by a double rheimpy an equally per- suasive sea-cow jambok. Around my waist I wore two leathern belts or girdles. The smaller of these discharged the duty of suspend- DRESS AND APPOINTMENTS. 32k ers, and from it on my left side depended a plaited rheim- py, eight inches in length, forming a loop, in which dan- gled my powerful loading-rod, formed of a solid piece of horn of the rhinoceros. The larger girdle was my shcoting-belt: this was a broad leather belt, on which were fastened four separate compartments made of ot- ter-skin, with flaps to button over of the same material. The first of these held my percussion caps, the second a large powder-flask, the third and fourth, which had divisions in them, contained balls and patches, two sharp clasp-knives, a compass, flint and steel. In this belt I also carried a loading mallet, formed from the horn of the rhinoceros ; this and the powder-flask were each se- cured to the belt by long rheimpies, to prevent my losing them. Last, but not least, in my right hand I usually carried my double-barreled two-grooved rifle, which was my favorite weapon. This, however, I subsequently made up my mind, is not the proper tool for a mounted man, especially when quick loading is necessary. I remember having a discussion with the command- ing officer of a regiment of heavy dragoons on this sub- ject, and he and I agreed that nothing can surpass a double-barreled smooth bore for practical utility. When a two-grooved rifle has been once or twice discharged, the bullet requires considerable power to drive it home; and to a mounted man this is extremely inconvenient. I consider that no regiment in the service was more ef- fectually armed than my own old corps, the Cape Mount- ed Rifles, who were furnished with short double-barrel- ed smooth-bored pieces, carrying a ball of twelve to the pound, and having stout percussion locks. Give mea weapon ¢ of this description to war against the larger game of Africa. .To accelerate loading, the hunter ought to have his balls stitched up in their patches, and well 326 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. greased before taking the field. This was my invariable custom: I found it a great convenience, and after a little practice I could load and fire in the saddle, al- though riding in rough ground at a swinging gallop. On the evening of the 12th a herald from Sicomy stood up in the center of my camp, and loudly proclaim- ed that it was the king’s orders that on the following day every man should return to head-quarters ; and, ac- cordingly, next day all hands shouldered their impedi- menta and forsook me. I could not rightly divine the cause of this mysterious command ; but I attributed it to some plotting scheme of Isaac’s, who, I understood, was living with Sicomy. I saw very plainly that Mut- chuisho was against the move. In consideration of his services, I begged his acceptance of several considera- ble presents, and I also sent some presents to the king. On parting, Mutchuisho promised shortly to return, and he informed me that he had instructed a party of Baka- lahari to assist me in my hunting during his absence END OF VOL, I.