ORTICULTURAL
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THE HORTICULTURAL EXHIBITORS
HANDBOOK.

THE

HORTICULTURAL EXHIBITORS’
HANDBOOK

A TREATISE ON CULTIVATING, EXHIBITING, AND
JUDGING PLANTS, FLOWERS, FRUITS,
AND VEGETABLES

BY

WILLIAM WILLIAMSON

GARDENER

Revisep py MALCOLM DUNN
Gardener to His Grace the Duke of Buccleuch and Queensberry
Dalkeith Park

WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS
EDINBURGH AND LONDON
MDCCCXCII

+

MA nal
So

43
Ww I>

Aeon a

CONTENTS.

[pace

PREFACE . . ; . vii

INTRODUCTION . ix

ELECTING JUDGES Xv

JUDGING . xix
\ DIVISION I.

Prats: 5 " ‘ ‘ ; 1

Stove FLOWERING PLANTS

Stove Fontace PLants . ‘ : . 15

(GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS $ 2 By

(FREENHOUSE FonLtaAGE PLANTS 3 » 5

ORCHIDS . ‘ 5 F : ‘ 52)

FerRxs. : 66

TABLE PLANTS : ; $8

PALMS. * ‘ F : - : ‘ . 86

MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS » 94
DIVISION II.

Cut FLOWERS . j ‘ 125
DIVISION III.

FReir 153
DIVISION IV.

VEGETABLES 197

) See
22g

MANURES

PREFACE.

Ir is well known to all concerned with horticultural exhibi-
tions that a much felt want has long existed of some definite
and systematic standard by which the merits of exhibits might
be measured with a fair amount of accuracy. In this treatise
I have endeavoured to meet this want by giving the details
of a simple and efficient system, which can be applied on all
occasions, and varied in detail to suit the wants of every
case.

A Handbook of concixe hints and cultural notes on the
rearing and preparation of specimens for exhibition is also a
desideratum among horticulturists, especially amateurs and
those of limited experience. The cultural remarks in this
work will therefore, I hope, be of some practical service to
such aspirants to sticcess, and enable them to attain their
object with less trouble and more certainty. In the Plant
and Cut Flower Divisions of the work I have received valu-
able assistance from several eminent growers, for which I beg
to express my warmest thanks.

Further, I am very specially indebted to Mr. Duyy, Dalkeith
Gardens, for his kind assistance in revising the volume; but
for all matters of opinion referred to in it, the Author is

alone responsible.

vill PREFACE.

In referring to the various genera and species of plants,
the names by which they are commonly known in horticulture
are generally employed, and no attempt has been made to
follow any system of botanical nomenclature.

I trust the work may fulfil the objects aimed at, and
form a standard for estimating the merits of exhibits with
some degree of precision and regularity, and thus lead to
an all-round advance in Horticulture generally.

Ww. W.

March 1892.

INTRODUCTION.

Ix introducing the reader to the contents of this Handbook,
we consider it necessary to give a few general remarks on
exhibitions ; to point out some of the benefits they confer on
those who participate in them, and show the effect their agency
has on increasing the value of produce.

Exhibitions, whether of Science, Art, or Industry, are usually
inaugurated with the view of promoting one or more of such
desirable objects as the education of the public mind, the
gratification of the senses, or the encouragement of Science,
Art, or Commerce. That the desired results have been attained
in a marked degree in Horticulture is clearly apparent to all
observers. When we notice the large and increasing number
of shows held throughout the country, nearly every parish
and village participating in the annual display of garden pro-
duce, and see the interest taken in their success by all classes
of the people, we are led to conclude that flower-shows must
be doing a vast amount of good, directly and indirectly, in this
country. Whatever tends to increase the productiveness of
the soil—whether it be the proper application of labour, or the
acquirement of a sound knowledge of the wants of plants, and
the best modes of applying the elements provided by Nature
and Science, to meet the varying demands of plant life—is
assisting in a material degree to furnish the means which so
largely contribute to the comfort and happiness of the people.

There can be no doubt whatever that exhibitions tend in
this direction, The inducements offered through their agency
have a stimulating effect on the mental and physical energies
of all who participate in competitions, which are in themselves

x INTRODUCTION.

laudable and interesting, when conducted in the right spirit,
and with due regard to the rules and regulations imposed by
all well-ordered societies. Sometimes these laws are set aside
by individuals, who do not hesitate to acquire by illegitimate
means any article of which they may be in want; but there
can be no veal satisfaction to the mind of any one gaining
a prize with what is not his own bond jirle production, and the
spirit which prompts this dishonourable practice should be
combated by all competitors.

It is to be regretted that so few professional gardeners avail
themselves of the opportunities for distinction in the art of
Horticulture provided for them by the numerous and influential
societies throughout the country. Many reasons may be given
for this lack of zeal and interest in such competitions. The
proprietor may not approve of exhibiting, und in that case
the gardener has no choice in the matter. But in a large
number of non-competing gardens things might be different
if it were generally known how beneficial a reasonable amount
of successful competition is to all concerned, especially in the
now numerous class of gardens where the surplus produce has
to be disposed of in the market. Apart, altogether, from the
general effects of the extra attention, application of skill, and
the unsparing energy in manual labour, at all hours, which
successful competition entails, there is a decided increase in
the value of the produce, which is well illustrated by the fol-
lowing incident of actual experience. A few years ago two
places were sending equally good grapes to the same fruit
merchant, but the money returned to the one was about double
that given to the other. .An explanation was demanded, and,
while admitting that the grapes were equally good, the dealer
said the grapes from the one place had got a name in the
town, and brought a high price, which was explained by suc-
cessful competition in the one case and non-com petition in the
other. A common objection raised to growing fruit for com-
petition is that the plants are under-cropped. This may occur
through ignorance or inexperience in reducing the crop to less
than what the plant is well able to mature. It should be
clearly understood, however, that there is no loss in growing

INTRODUCTION. xi

fruit to what may be termed the exhibition standard, that is,
the highest state of perfection to which it can be brought.
This can only be done by inoderate cropping, or just what the
plant with good management is able to sustain and perfect.
When more than this is attempted, then waste begins, first in
inferior produce, and ultimately in the premature sterility and
decay of the plant. Another prolific source of non-competition
is the belief of many that their place is not adapted for the
growth of exhibition specimens; but it should be borne in
mind that numerous difficulties have to be surmounted in all
cases where growing for competition is carried on, and that if
soil and situation be unsuitable for one class of plants, they
may be well adapted for the cultivation of others, which may
be profitably and successfully grown. Thanks are due to thoxe
who come forward with high-class exhibits, and thus keep
up the standard of perfection in all divisions of horticultural
produce.

Within recent years great excelleucy has been attained in
fruit and vegetable culture. That this has not been altogether
the result of improved varieties needs little demonstration. It
will as readily be admitted that it is mostly the outcome of
an increased knowledge of the best methods of culture, and
a better acquaintance with the science which unfolds to us
the hidden treasures of Nature.

It is matter for regret that so little has been done till quite
recently to promote the study of Science as applied to Horticul-
ture; and while we hear much about the establishment of schools
for educating and training youths in the science and art of other
branches of rural industry, such as Agriculture and Forestry,
very little has been said in reference to the equally strong claims
of Horticulture. When the arrangements are being carried out,
it is to be hoped that hint Heslignal science will not be over-
looked, as it is quite as important a factor in the prosperity
of the country and the welfare of the people as any other
branch of rural economy. The need for a.test-examination in
Science and Art is fully as great amongst gardeners as it is
ng the members of any other branch of the industrial pro-
Those who passed successfully would be the better

amo
fessions.

Xil INTRODUCTION.

equipped to reap the reward of their industry and natural
ability, while others who failed would be relegated to their proper
sphere in the horticultural profession. Various associations are
doing their best in several parts of the country to make up, in
some degree, for this crying want, by offering inducements to
young gardeners and others to compose essays on horticultural
subjects, for which they are awarded prizes and certificates.
These, however, are a very indifferent substitute for a properly
equipped curriculum, which would enable them to obtain a
thorough knowledge of the theory and practice of horticulture,
and thus be the better able to understand and _ successfully
overcome the many difficulties which beset the young and
inexperienced.

Horticultural exhibitions are valuable object-lessons to the
aspiring but uninitiated tyro, and form an excellent medium
for learning what can be attained towards perfection in Horti-
culture by a diligent application of skill and industry. So far
as the circumstances and his knowledge will allow, they furnish
to the intelligent student a good criterion of the various points
of merit in the different classes of exhibits. This phase of the
subject is, however, capable of much improvement. The re-
mark is often heard at flower-shows, “‘ Why has the prize been
wwarded to this in preference to that?” and such questions
may, as a rule, be but the outcome of ignorance on the part of
the general public ; but the fact must be remembered that the
exhibitors are often as ignorant as the others of the relative
value of the points upon which the awards have been decided,
as no data of any value exist for their enlightenment. One
of the chief objects of an exhibition is the all-round improve-
ment of the articles exhibited, which we may safely say has
been always kept in view and fairiy well accomplished by hor-
ticulturists.

Most intelligent people do not now visit flower-shows for
the sole purpose of merely admiring gigantic and beautiful
specimens, similar in most respects to those they have so often
seen on the same occasions in every part of the country, but to
scrutinise and note the various points of merit which one exhi-
bit displays over another, and for the possession of which it has

INTRODUCTION. xiii

been awarded the premier place. In this, however, they as a
rule can only find partial enlightenment, as the judges make
the awards from certain features in the exhibits which are, we
are willing to believe, perfectly clear and intelligible to them,
but of which people in general have only the faintest idea, and
no means have existed hitherto by which they could be guided
in their search for information on the subject.

A simple and efticient method of estimating the value of
the merits of all classes of horticultural products met with
in competitions, has long been a desideratum to all who are
interested in the success of flower-shows, by which an equit-
able value could be put upon the skill, and taste, displayed
in the culture of every exhibit, and the awards made in
accordance therewith, on lines clearly defined and intelligible
to all who choose to learn. In estimating the value of Cultural
Merit, which is the principal factor in determining awards to
horticultural products, it is really an impossibility to frame a
code of laws, or lay down rules which could be followed with
success in every case, because no two specimens or samples are
found to be exactly alike in every detail. Still by means of
the decimal system—a simple method, eminently well adapted
for the purpose—a close approach can be made to absolute
accuracy in valuing the merits of exhibits, and to practical
uniformity in adjudicating thereon.

After summing up the value of the cultural merits dis-
played by the articles in competition—the result of the thought,
skill, and taste of the cultivator—it is not advisable, and is
seldom needful, to go farther to find data for determining an
award ; but in the event of a tie occurring in the cultural
value, resource must then be had to the Natural Merits or
intrinsic value of the exhibits to determine the award. It
is practically impossible to define the relative value under all
circumstances of natural merits, because they vary with the
tastes and customs of every country and parts of a country,
so that what may be highly prized in one place and period
may be counted of little use or value at another. Instead,
therefore, of attempting to lay down any fixed rules, which in
the nature of things could not be of general application, some

XIV INTRODUCTION.

illustrations are given below of the order of precedence in
which the different kinds of exhibits are generally accepted,
and which can be easily rearranged to suit the varying taste
and cireumstances on all occasions. With these desiderata
provided, there is still plenty of scope for the exercise of
knowledge, acumen, and sound judgment in making a correct
adjudication.

It is chiefly in the plant and fruit divisions, where, in mixed
collections, the greatest difference in natural merit prevails.
The intrinsic, or commercial worth of an article, should not
alone determine its relative value in competition, but the
greatest weight ought to be attached to the careful persever-
ance, skill, and taste required to produce a perfect exhibition
specimen. For example, the Croton and Palm, which require
several years of careful culture to form specimens, should be
allowed more competitive value than a Caladium or Coleus ;
and among flowering plants, the Erica and Ixora should have
more weight than a Cineraria or Begonia. A greater dif-
ference, however, is generally found in relative value among
the fruit in a large collection. The Pine-Apple is usually
assigned the first position, closely followed by the Grape, with
the Melon, Peach, Nectarine, Fig, Apricot, Pear, Plum, Cherry,
Apple, Strawberry, Gooseberry, Raspberry, and Currant in the
order in which they are here given. Other less common fruits
may intervene, but the order of precedence can always be
settled on the spot by competent judges, when they have the
exhibits before them. In all cases, excellence for dessert or
culinary purposes should carry more weight than mere appear-
ance or rarity. Rich flavour, high quality, and pleasing
appearance, should prevail in dessert fruit; in culinary fruits,
large size, even outline, fine flavour, and usefulness, are the
chief points.

ELECTING JUDGES.

THE greatest care and discrimination should be exercised in
selecting the judges for horticultural exhibitions by those whose
duty it is to appoint them, because the success of an exhibi-
tion depends greatly on the confidence with which the awards
are received. A common practice is for a committee, or the
managers of a flower-show, to appoint the judges from among
their horticultural neighbours, without much consideration as
to their qualifications for performing the important duties
intrusted to them, in a just and equitable manner. Exhibitors
quickly find out any defect in the knowledge, fairness, or want
of impartiality in the judges, and promptly resent it, thus lead- -
ing to much discontent and angry feeling, where nothing of
the kind should ever be heard of, if due precautions are taken.
Where the selection of the judges is left to the secretary alone,
as it sometimes is, the duty may be faultlessly performed by an
able and clear-headed man, but, as a rule, this is not a satisfac-
tory method of selecting them. We believe that the greatest
confidence would be secured if the judges were nominated by
a much wider constituency than is the custom at the present
time. It is already the practice at some agricultural and
other exhibitions to employ judges who have been nominated
for the office by the exhibitors, and this method is generally
found to give satisfaction. A similar method could easily be
adopted in connection with flower-shows. When the prize
schedule is issued to the members, a form should be sent out
with it, and all competitors requested to fill in the names of
competent judges of the classes in which they intend to com-
pete, and in due course return the form so filled to the secre-
tary of the society. The committee would then only have to

find out those who had received the most votes, and elect them
xv b

xvi ELECTING JUDGES.

to the office. Of course, difficulties may crop up in carrying
out this method; but where it has been tried, it has generally
resulted in the appointment of judges satisfactory to the main
body of competitors.

The best-qualified judges of the merits of any particular
class of exhibits are, as a rule, to be found among those who
have devoted themselves to the study aud cultivation of that
class, and have been successful in bringing it to the highest
state of perfection. It is scarcely possible for any individual
in an ordinary lifetime to acquire a thorough knowledge of all
the merits, peculiarities, and details of every subject brought
under review in horticultural exhibitions ; therefore, in judging
the various classes at a flower-show, a division of labour is
absolutely necessary. Some men devote themselves mainly to
florists’ flowers, sparing neither time nor means to secure
varieties with the finest form, colour, and substance, and to
cultivate them to the highest possible state of perfection. To
this class of horticulturists, therefore, we naturally look for
the best judges of the merits of the florists’ flowers.

Other men are specialists in the cultivation of certain classes
of plants, having by a long course of experience and the exer-
cise of trained skill acquired a thorough knowledge of the
varied wants and peculiarities of the subjects under their
charge, which is needful to ensure success in their treatment,
and the production of perfect specimens at the proper time.
It is obvious that men so trained should be the best qualified
for adjudicating on the various classes of plants.

Then, again, other men find themselves perfectly at home
among fruits and vegetables ; and from long and careful prac-
tice in their successful culture and close study of their various
wants, they are thoroughly acquainted with every merit and
peculiarity that fruits or vegetables possess. They have thus
come to be recognised authorities in these branches of horti-
culture, and should be the best qualified to adjudicate on their
merits.

From the great difficulties in the way of most men acquiring
a perfect knowledge of every department of horticulture, so as
to enable them to adjudicate with confidence and to the general

ELECTING JUDGES. XVili

satisfaction in all, it would probably be more satisfactory for
societies to appoint one man as the sole judge in the section
to which it is well known he has given special attention, and
to strictly confine his duties to that section. One thoroughly
qualified man would do the work quite as well, probably better,
and more expeditiously than the usual triumvirate now in
vogue, and the great responsibility incurred would add to the
weight of his decisions.

The very cream of qualified men may be employed to judge,
and their awards may be made with the utmost fairness and
impartiality, but still their decisions may appear in the eyes of
the uninitiated to vary so widely, as to render them a source of
much dispute and dissatisfaction. This arises mainly from the
absence of any code or recognised system of judging horticul-
tural exhibits. Under the usual arrangements practised by
societies at the present day, each arbiter is a law unto himself,
and the methods of estimating the merits and demerits of
exhibits are as numerous as the judges !

In adjudicating upon the merits of a collection of fruit, for
instance, it is a common practice for the judges to begin by
allowing three, or it may be four points as the standard of
value of the Lest dish in the collection, no matter how nume-
rous and varied the dishes may be. The highest number of
points, say four, is given to a first-rate Pine-Apple, three to a
dish of first-class Grapes, two to a fine Melon, and one to an
excellent dish of Peaches, when the scale is exhausted, and
nothing left wherewith to gauge the merits of the other kinds
of fruit in the collection. Another common practice is to
allow a uniform value to all kinds of fruit, Gooseberries and
Grapes being placed on the same level. A much more unsatis-
factory method is followed at times, when the judges compare
the dishes of the same kind of fruit, and thereby determine the
awards by the greatest number of “ best” dishes, but taking
no account of the aggregate merits of all the dishes in each
collection. Worst of all, some judges, after a cursory survey,
“slump the lot” in making their awards; and to save their
life, they could not give a detailed and satisfactory explanation
of the conclusions they have arrived at.

xviil ELECTING JUDGES.

From these familiar illustrations of the crude methods and
unsystematic manner in which judging is practised, especially
at provincial shows, the need for reform will be at once ad-
mitted, not only in the modus operandi, but more particularly
in the general adoption of a simple and easily applied formula,
by which a fairly accurate and uniform estimate can be made
of the various merits of all classes of horticultural exhibits.
It is in the interest of every Horticultural Society to secure
the services of thoroughly experienced judges. With local
societies this is often a matter of difficulty, and their best
efforts may fail to command able and experienced men; but
with a clear and simple method of procedure as a guide, the
merest tyro at adjudicating may, with the exercise of ordinary
intelligence, soon succeed in doing justice to the merits of the
exhibits placed before him for his verdict.

JUDGING.

It should be the aim and desire of all exhibitors to set up their
specimens in the most perfect condition attainable, and with all
the tasteful effect which their skill and experience can devise,
so as to have the best possible chance of winning the highest
awards in competition. The merits of every specimen should
be brought out ta the highest perfection by the skill and taste
of the cultivator, and exhibited when they are in their most
perfect form. Without going into elaborate details on the
specific merits of every class of horticultural exhibits, with all
their varied characteristics among plants, flowers, fruits, and
vegetables, with which all properly qualified judges should be
perfectly familiar, the chief points of merit in each class will
be pointed out in its place in this work, when the subject is
dealt with.

In ordinary practice, competent judges have seldom any diffi-
culty in arriving at a fair and just conclusion as to the respec-
tive merits of the exhibits, after a close examination of the
specimens. Where, however, they may differ in opinion, or
where the competition is keen and close, the following simple
and easy method may be adopted in estimating the merits of
the individual specimens, and thereby settling the order of
the awards to the satisfaction of all reasonable persons. For
example, say nine exhibitors are competing in a class of Twelve
“distinct” Stove and Greenhouse Plants, or the same number
Rose-Blooms, Dishes of Fruit, or of Vegetables, for which three
prizes are offered. On careful examination, it is found that
four of the collections are clearly out of the running, and may
be passed without further comment. The merits of the other
five collections are so nearly equal that it is resolved to esti-

mate the value of the individual specimens to decide the order
iN

xx JUDGING.

in which the prizes are to be awarded. Taking them as they
come, the collections are marked A., B., C., D., and E., and,
taken in the same manner, the specimens in each are numbered
1 to 12; and the value of each article estimated and recorded
separately, as shown in the following table. The decimal system
is employed as the simplest and best for the purpose, and the
values are estimated in tenths and hundredths, the standard
being the unit, denoting a perfect specimen.

| Speci \ | B € D. E
| mens. |
| =

it ‘94 | 38 1-0 1-0 9

2, en ') 10 7 85
8 75) 10 9 6 9
od 1-0 | 8 75 77 | 8
Be 1:0; 1 47 8 ie ee
| 6. 66 | °8 5° 8 | 9
oe 9 | 190 7 9 95
=. 7 82 99 85 7
ith 6 | ef 8 28 3 Ot
; 10. 7 9 1-0 1:0 9
| AL; 10 | 38 81 8 10 |

12. 8 | 10 9 93 6

| ——|— Sens ee
| 9°85 | 10-0 | 10% 975; 103 |

In proceeding with the valuation, A. collection is first dealt
with in detail, beginning with No. 1. Each specimen is
minutely examined, and the value of its merits agreed upon,
and then noted opposite its number in A. column, and so on
until the merits of the twelve specimens have been carefully
estimated and recorded. The B. collection is treated in exactly
the same manner, and the C., D., and E. collections follow in
their order. At the conclusion the results are summed up,
and show at a glance that C. collection is first, E. collection
second, and B. collection third, with the other two clearly in
the rear but not far behind, proving that the competition was
close, and showing the necessity for minutely estimating the

JUDGING, xxi

value of every detail. In the rare event of a tie between two
or more of the collections, a more minute examination of the
specimens in them, and the extension of the decimal to three
figures, will to a certainty decide the closest possible com
petition.

THE HORTICULTURAL EXHIBITORS’
HANDBOOK.

———

DIVISION L
PLANTS.

Puayts constitute the main feature in all horticultural exhi-
bitions, occupying the greatest amount of space, and provid-
ing an imposing and attractive display for the admiration
of the public. In treating of the various classes of plants,
we have taken them in sections with some natural affinities,
and in much the same order as they usually appear in the
schedules of flower-shows, as follows :—

Section 1. Stove Flowering Plants,

Stove Foliage Plants,

. Greenhouse Flowering Plants.
Greenhouse Foliage Plants.
Orchids.

Ferns.

Palms.

Table Plants.

Miscellaneous Exhibition Plants.

MIS OO o9 by

=

The genera in each section are taken in alphabetical order,
for easy reference. Mention is made, when necessary, of a
few of the best species and varieties for exhibition purposes.
The cultural remarks are confined as much as possible to the
special points requiring attention in growing specimens for

exhibition.
A

to

STOVE FLOWERING PLANTS.

SECTION I.
STOVE FLOWERING PLANTS,

ACHIMENES,

This is a beautiful genus of soft-wooded, tuberous-rooted
stove plants, chiefly from the tropical parts of America, which,
from their floriferous nature, make excellent specimens, under
good treatment, for exhibition. Among the numerous varieties
in cultivation, the following are vigorous and free-flowering,
and may be chosen for exhibition :—Carminata splendens, Lon-
gihtora alba, L. major, Rosea magnifica, Purpurea elegans, and
Williams.

The tubercles should be started in a strong heat in a light
compost of fine leaf-mould and sand. When the shoots are
about an inch long, the plants should be carefully transplanted
into pans 12 inches in diameter, placing the plants 2 inches
apart, in a mixture of fibry loam and peat, with a third of
silver sand and well-dried and broken-down cow-manure, all
thoroughly incorporated together. A moist and genial tem-
perature encourages vigorous growth, and a judicious use of
weak liquid manure, after the pan is full of roots, induces
abundance of fine large flowers. As the shoots grow, they
must be carefully staked and trained as near as possible in
the shape of a half globe. When the flower-buds begin to
appear, the plants should be removed to the warm end of a
greenhouse, and be gradually exposed to air and light as they
expand,

In preparing them for exhibition, the horizontal side shoots
may be untied and carefully drawn towards the centre, and
wrapped in cotton-wool and tissue-paper to carry them safe to
the show. They must be again neatly arranged and tied-out,
taking care to have the plant well balanced, and every flower
fully exposed ; all stakes and ties being well hidden by the
foliage.

STOVE FLOWERING PLANTS. 3

ALLAMANDA.

All the species of this lovely genus of stove climbing plants
are of easy culture and remarkably free flowering. They are
natives of the tropical regions of South America, and luxu-
riate in abundance of heat and moisture. Among the best for
exhibition are A. grandiflora, A. nobilis, and A. Schottit. To
grow them well for this purpose, the shoots should be run up
as near the glass as possible till the flowers appear, when they
should be brought down and carefully trained over a balloon
or other trellis, securely fixed to the pot, taking care to leave
sufficient room to allow the leaves and flowers to assume a
natural position.

The Allamanda grows well in a compost of equal parts of
sound fibrous loam, leaf-mould, and sand, sprinkled with
charcoal nodules and half-inch bones. When the specimens
are fully formed, and occupy large pots or tubs, it is not
necessary to re-pot them annually. With rich top-dressing
and a due application of liquid manure, they may be kept in a
thriving and floriferous condition for years, Before starting
them in spring, the surface soil should be removed to a depth
of three inches, and the space filled up with a rich mixture
of turfy loam and dry, well-rotted manure, pressed firmly
down. The plants require a good rest to ripen their growth,
and should be kept comparatively dry through the winter.
The shoots should be cut back to a few eyes before the plants
are started in spring; and when they break, no more shoots
should be allowed to grow than is actually required to furnish
the specimen—a few strong and well-matured shoots giving
much the finest crop of flowers. Allamandas are usually
increased by cuttings which strike and grow easily; but A.
grandiflora thrives best when grafted on a stronger growing
species, such as A, Schottit.

If the specimens have to travel a distance to the show, it is
very advisable to gum the flowers, by dropping a little good
liquid gum on to the base of the petals, which will prevent
them being so easily shaken off in transit. Hach flower should
also be carefully wrapped in tissue-paper and cotton-wool, to

4 STOVE FLOWERING PLANTS,

save it from being rubbed and injured. When the plants have
reached the exhibition, they must be carefully unpacked, and
the shoots, leaves, and flowers all neatly arranged in as natural
and effective a manner as possible, taking care to leave nothing
untidy about them in the way of tying or packing material,
and all stakes and ties used in training should be kept well
out of view. These remarks as to “ packing ” and “ setting
up” of exhibition plants apply to all sections. The finest of
specimens are easily ruined by carelessness in packing or in
transit to the exhibition ; and a prize is often lost by good
specimens being set up in a careless, untidy, and tasteless
fashion.

AMARYLLIS,

This is a beautiful genus of bulbous plants, the varieties of
which have of late been greatly multiplied and improved.
There is quite a host of fine varieties in the trade, from
which the exhibitor can easily select the most suitable for
his purpose.

The practice of some growers is to turn the bulbs out of
the pots after they are matured, and dry them off, while
others allow them to remain, and start them without re-potting.
As the strength of the future plant depends more upon the
perfect maturation of the bulb than on the subsequent treat-
ment, the result of the different methods may be imperceptible ;
but we prefer to allow the bulbs to rest in the pots till the
time for starting, when the old soil is shaken away, and three
well-ripened bulbs are placed in a 10-inch pot, using a compost
of rough fibrous loam, old hot-bed manure, and sand. They
should be started in a temperature of 55°, or a little higher,
according to the time they are wanted in flower.’ Little water
should be given until growth is proceeding. When the flower-
scapes appear, the plants should be taken to the greenhouse,
placed near the glass, and watered with weak liquid manure
to assist in the full development of the flowers. The flower-
stems should be securely staked, the flowers enveloped in
wadding, and the leaves carefully laid up against each other,
when removing the plants to the exhibition.

STOVE FLOWERING PLANTS. 5

ANTHURIUM,

Perhaps A. Andreanum and the well-known species 4d.
Scherzerianum are the two most popular of this genus with
exhibitors, and have a bold and striking appearance in a group
of flowering plants. They are of easy culture, and owing to
the firm texture of the leaves and flowers make splendid exhi-
bition plants. They luxuriate in a high temperature with
plenty of moisture in the atmosphere. During active growth
they must have copious supplies of water at the roots, while a
little fish-manure dissolved in water and applied once a week
during summer will be found a healthy stimulant.

The proper time to re-pot them is early in spring, or when
growth has commenced. The pots should be one-third full of
crocks, and the compost used should consist of very fibry peat,
charcoal, and spagnum ; keep the plants well above the rim of
the pots to ensure perfect drainage and a free circulation of air
about the roots.

BOUGAINVILLEA.

This is a beautiful genus of stove flowering plants of climb-
ing habit, blooming in summer on the points of the current
year’s growth. They must be trained near the glass, and have
plenty of light to mature their growth. ‘When they show
flower, they should be brought down to the trellis, and treated
exactly the same as Allamandas. They require to be grown
vigorously in summer, and after flowering they should be
gradually ripened by being kept moderately dry at the roots,
and rested during winter, or till they require to be started to
bring them into flower. A little before starting, the shoots
should be pruned back to within a few buds of the wood of
the previous year. When they break into growth, the plants
may be re-potted if necessary, using good turfy loam, leaf-
mould, and sharp sand, with comparatively small pots, and
potting them very firm. A short time after re-potting the
soil should be thoroughly soaked with tepid water, and the
plants syringed daily to encourage a vigorous growth. The
best for exhibition is the free-flowering B. glabra, but B.
speetosa is also worthy of a place in a collection.

6 STOVE FLOWERING PLANTS.

CLERODENDRON.

This genus of plants comprises two groups, the one being
seandant in habit, the other shrubby. As C. Balfourit is the
most suitable species for exhibition, for which it has few rivals,
our remarks will chiefly apply to it. Its free-flowering nature,
and the ease and certainty with which it can be brought into
flower at a given time, makes it invaluable for exhibition
purposes. From ten to twelve weeks, according to its season
of rest, is the usual period between starting and blooming.
The main point to be observed in its culture is to secure
strong, well-ripened growth, and then give it a fair amount
of rest before starting it again. Being of a climbing habit,
the shoots must be regulated during the growing season, and
trained up strings or wires close to the glass. When the
growth is complete, the shoots should be brought down and
neatly trained over a suitable trellis. The greater the num-
ber of well-ripened shoots, the more abundant will be the beau-
tiful panicles of bloom. It thrives well in equal parts of loam
and peat, with a little old mushroom-bed manure and charcoal.
If the loam is heavy, a sprinkling of coarse sand will be
beneficial. While the plants are growing freely, weak liquid
manure should be given once a week. This plant should not
be too often disturbed at the roots, a rich top-dressing being
more beneficial when it has attained specimen size.

CRINUM.

Of this handsome tribe of bulbous plants, a good specimen
is occasionally seen at an exhibition, and when of a large size
and in perfect condition, it is an exceedingly attractive object.
Among the best for this purpose is C. amabile, C. Moorei, and
C. purpurascens. They thrive best when grown in large pots
or tubs, in a compost of fibry loam and peat, with a good
sprinking of half-inch bones and charcoal nodules intermixed.
The drainage must be perfect ; and when the plants are well
established, they will not require a shift for several years. A
rich top-dressing annually at the time they are started to
grow, and a liberal application of clear liquid manure while

STOVE FLOWERING PLANTS. 7

growth is proceeding and the roots are active, will secure fine
heads of the largest-sized flowers. To save the heavy heads
of flowers while being conveyed to the show, they must
be securely staked, and each flower supported with wads of
cotton-wool carefully wrapped with tissue-paper. The plants
require to be set in the full sunlight after they have done
flowering, and the water gradually withheld, to thoroughly
mature the bulbs, as upon their ripeness much of the success
in their cultivation depends. They are mostly evergreens,
and should not be dried off, like deciduous bulbs, but kept
slowly moving through the winter in a temperature of 45° to
50°, and put into stove heat about two months before the date
of the show.

DIPLADENTA.

All this genus of lovely stove climbers make excellent sub-
jects for exhibition, and should be grown wherever a suitable
house can be devoted to them. They are somewhat difficult
to manage, and hence their value as exhibition specimens is
fully recognised by all good judges of plants. When their
requirements are understood and duly provided for, they can
be grown to great perfection.

One important point in their culture is to keep them clean
and not over-water them. Although they require a moist
atmosphere and high temperature, they will not thrive with
a superabundance of water at the roots. Like all other climb-
ing plants for exhibition, they must be trained close to the
glass, and should have a corner in the stove where shading
can almost be dispensed with, so as to ripen the growth
thoroughly. In order to prevent the shoots intertwining,
they should be trained singly to strings until they show
flower, when they should be brought down and placed over
a balloon trellis, on which they should be exhibited. When
they cease flowering for the season, water should be gradually
withheld, and the plants rested during the winter months.
At the same time over-dryness at the root must be guarded
against. Three of the most distinct for exhibition are D.
amabilis, D. boliviensis, and D. Brearleyana. The soil best

8 STOVE FLOWERING PLANTS.

suited for them is a mixture of turfy loam, fibry peat, sharp
sand, and charcoal. The pots should be well drained, and the
soil pressed firm about the roots.

EUCHARIS.

The lovely and sweet-scented Kucharis amazunica is, when
well flowered, an invaluable plant for exhibition, as well as of
great service for decorative purposes. The genus is a small
one, and none of the species are equal to Amazonica for exhibi-
tion. They are natives of New Grenada, and require a moist
stove temperature to bring them to perfection.

To form large specimens for exhibition, select the finest
bulbs, wash them clean to see that they are perfectly sound,
sprinkle them with silver sand, then plant them rather
deeply in pots of a suitable size, placing the bulbs about three
inches apart, and using a compost of rich fibrous loam well
sprinkled with bone-meal and small bits of charcoal. The
pots must be well drained, as the plants require abundance of
water at the roots and copious syringing daily to grow them
well. The leaves, after potting, should be supported by a few
neat stakes till the roots get hold of the soil and are able to
support the foliage. A stock of good plants being secured, they
can be brought into flower at almost any season by judicious
management. To bring them into flower at a given time,
they should be encouraged to make a vigorous growth pre-
viously, which should be thoroughly matured by keeping them
dry and comparatively cool and well aired for about six weeks.
They should be taken back to the stove about seven weeks
before the show, and treated in the ordinary manner, with
plenty of moisture in the air. After the pots are full of roots,
the application of clear liquid manure twice a week is very
beneficial. Should the flowers come too early for the show,
the plants can be removed just as the flowers begin to open
to a cooler house, and kept shaded for a week or two till they
are wanted. Lach flower stem must be securely staked, and
the flowers carefully protected in the usual way, for safety in
transit to the exhibition.

STOVE FLOWERING PLANTS. 9

FRANCISCEA,

This is a beautiful genus of dwarf shrubs from Brazil,
which are not so often met with in collections as they should
be. They produce an abundance of pretty sweet-scented
flowers at different times during the season, and are grown
to perfection in 2 moderate stove temperature, J. calycina
major and FF. confertiflora ave the best for exhibition. The
plants must be kept closely pinched when young, to form
a proper foundation for exhibition specimens; afterwards
they are easily kept in shape by an annual pruning at the
time they have done flowering. They should be re-potted
every year in equal parts of fibry peat and loam, with about
one-fourth of silver sand, making the whole firm in the pot.

GARDENIA.

This useful genus of free-flowering plants combines the
qualities of beauty, fragrance, and profusion of flowers which
have made it a popular favourite. Among the best for
exhibition are G. florida intermedia, G. f. Fortuneana, and
G. radicans major. The short-jointed shoots and shrubby
nature of the plant makes it easily grown into a fine compact
specimen. It thrives best in a mixture of equal parts sandy
loam and peat, with silver sand and leaf-soil; but well-rotted
manure and bone-meal should be added to the soil when re-
potting specimen plants. It requires a moist and high tem-
perature to make its growth, which should be gradually toned
down as the plants come into flower. The Gardenia is very
subject to the attack of insects, and should be syringed with
soap-water to which has been added a gill of paraffin to the
gallon. An excellent preventative for red spiders is to place
over the plunging material a layer of stable manure, which
should be kept moist. As soon as the buds are set, weak
liquid manure with some soot dissolved in it should be given
once a week, to increase the size of the flowers, and give a dark,
healthy gloss to the leaves.

10 STOVE FLOWERING PLANTS,

IXORA.

Although these are considered rather difficult subjects to
cultivate, they stand in the front rank of flowering plants for
exhibition, for which purpose most of the species and varieties
are well suited, especially I. coccinea superba, I. Colei, I Dufit,
and I. javanica florabunda. They luxuriate in a high tem-
perature, strong bottom-heat, moist atmosphere, and all the
light possible, merely shading them from the strong sun at
mid-day. While growing, they should be carefully attended
to with water at the roots. When done flowering, they should
recelve any pruning they require, and be rested, in a com-
paratively dry state, in an intermediate house. They succeed
best in fibry peat, a little leaf-mould, and plenty of silver
sand, all well mixed, and potted moderately firm. After they
have reached specimen size, they will thrive well for years
without re-potting ; but they should be carefully supplied with
weak liquid manure during the season of active growth.

JASMINUM.

There are many species of this excellent genus of trailing
sweet-scented plants. Of the stove kinds, J. gracillimum and
J. Sambac jflove pleno ave the best. The former is a profuse
bloomer, and the shoots being very flexible, it can be grown
as a specimen in any form to suit the taste of the cultivator.
The balloon or the pyramid shape is best adapted for an exhi-
bition specimen. They thrive well in a mixture of sandy
loam and peat, with the addition of some old rotted manure.
When the plants attain a large size, their luxuriance is very
much promoted by applications of weak liquid manure during
the growing period.

MEDINILLA.

Among the finest and most handsome of all stove plants is
a well-grown and profusely-flowered specimen of AL. magnifica,
a native of the Philippine Islands. It delights to make its
growth in a high temperature and a moist atmosphere, shaded

STOVE FLOWERING PLANTS. 11

from strong sunshine. When the growth is fully developed
the plant should be exposed to all the light possible, to
thoroughly ripen the wood, and then rest it in an inter-
mediate house. From eight to ten weeks before the plant is
required for exhibition, place it again in the stove. An open
compost of turfy loam and peat, with a sprinkling of nodules
of charcoal and half-inch bones, and plenty of silver sand to
keep all open, grows it well. When the roots have filled the
pot, and especially when the flowers are developing, a weekly
application of clear liquid manure has a very beneficial effect.
Cuttings strike readily in pure sand, with a strong bottom-
heat, and covered with a bell-glass, The large and beautiful
rosy-pink panicles of flowers remain in perfection for a con-
siderable time ; but, in removing the plant to the exhibition,
each panicle must be carefully supported by stakes and cotton-
wool, as their weight is apt to damage the flowers if they are
allowed to sway about or rub against anything.

PANCRATIUM.

This is a genus of bulbous, sweet-scented, white-flowering
plants of some merit for exhibition. P. fragrans is a free-
flowering plant, with large umbels of flowers of perfect purity,
and long narrow segments radiating from the centre, which
gives it a chaste and graceful appearance. It should be potted
in strong fibrous loam, sand, and well-rotted hot-bed manure.
It is generally cultivated under the same conditions as the
Eucharis with great success. The plants, if placed in an
intermediate house previous to flowering, with plenty of light
and air to mature the growth, will continue much longer in
flower than when confined to the stove. A few doses of liquid
manure after the flower-scapes appear are productive of good
results, but they should be stopped when the first flowers begin
to open. When removing the plants to the show, the greatest
care is necessary to prevent injury to the flowers, which should
be enclosed in wadding without pressing against it, and the
whole plant enclosed in tissue-paper and covered with stout
canvas.

Le STOVE FLOWERING PLANTS.

POINSETTIA.

This is one of the most striking and attractive winter deco-
rative plants we possess. The typical variety P. pulcherrima
and the white variety P. pulcherrima alba are both very
showy plants, but the former is the most suitable for exhibi-
tion. A two-year-old plant, if the wood is well matured, makes
a good foundation for an exhibition specimen. The plants
should be pruned to within two eyes of the old wood, and
although they grow fairly well in a cold frame during the
summer months, they are all the better of a little artificial
warmth, especially during the night. When the buds are
started, the old soil should be shaken away from the roots,
and the plants potted amongst sandy loam and _ leaf-soil.
They should be syringed twice a day, and very little water
given at the roots until growth has fairly commenced.
They should be kept near the glass, and plenty of light and
air given, for the formation of strong, firm, short-jointed
wood. From ten to twelve strong shoots are sufficient to
form a fine specimen. Flowering may be forwarded or re-
tarded by the time the plants are introduced to stove heat,
three to four weeks only being necessary for the full develop-
ment of the bracts after the plants are full grown.

RONDELETIA.

The Rondeletias are hard-wooded evergreen shrubs from the
West Indies, producing freely their bright little trusses of
flowers Among the best are 2’. cordata and R. speciosa major.
The roots are small and fibry, and are liable to be injured by
injudicious watering; but when the plants are grown into
well-flowered specimens, they are very effective at the autumn
shows when stove flowering plants are searce. On account of
their straggling habit they require to be neatly trained into
shape for exhibition; and in whatever form they are trained,
the shoots should be fully exposed during the growing season,
that they may be short-jointed and well matured. After
flowering, the shoots should be cut back to within three joints
of the previous year’s growth. When they are starting to
«row is the best time to re-pot, using a mixture of rough

STOVE FLOWERING PLANTS. 13

fibrous peat, light loam, and sharp sand, with a few bits of
charcoal. Firm potting and careful watering are two essential
conditions to ensure success.

STEPHANOTIS.

The fine stove-climber S. floribunda is indispensable to the
exhibitor. Its pure white waxy flowers and thick leathery
leaves fit it admirably for withstanding the changes of tem-
perature which plants in exhibitions are subjected to.

Under good cultivation it is a rampant grower, and should
be trained in the same manner as other climbers, by running
up strings under the glass around which the shoots will twine.
They can then be easily brought down to the trellis when
they show flowers. Although a plant of rapid growth and
a gross feeder, it flowers best when rather confined at the
roots; therefore large plants can be grown in comparatively
small pots, and they will flower more freely if judiciously
treated with liquid manure. The best time to re-pot is when
they are starting into growth in spring, using good fibrous
loam, leaf-mould, sand, and a little bone-meal. Careful water-
ing is very essential, especially during the winter months,
when the plant is resting. During the period of active
growth, an occasional application of weak liquid manure will
greatly benefit established plants which are getting pot-bound.
The balloon form is the best mode of training for the Stepha-
notis, which should be done some time before the exhibition,
so that the leaves and young shoots may have time to assume
a natural position.

TABERN.EMONTANA.

This is another sweet-scented useful stove evergreen shrub,
somewhat resembling the Gardenia. T. coronaria flore pleno
and 7. grandiflora are among the best for exhibition, the
flowers of the former being pure white, and the latter of a
yellow colour. They form by careful pruning and pinching
fine compact bushes, which, when well flowered, stand high
among exhibition plants. They thrive well under the same
conditions of culture as recommended for the Gardenia,

14 STOVE FLOWERING PLANTS.

THUNBERGIA.

This is a genus of stove and greenhouse climbers, some, of
which only are worthy of cultivation as exhibition specimens,
T. laurifolia is a large-flowered species of a blue colour,
which, from the length of time it continues to bloom, entitles
it to be classed amongst exhibition plants. It makes a fine-
looking plant when it is trained on a globular trellis with all
its panicles of flower turned outwards. It requires a compost
of fibrous loam and peat in equal parts, with a little sand and
well-decayed manure.

TOXICOPHL.ZA,

Among stove-flowering plants 7, spectabilzs occupies a useful
position, its white scented flowers being produced with great
freedom. It is of a rather straggling habit, but with good
treatment and carefully pinching and regulating the growth,
it can be made to form a fine specimen for exhibition. It
grows well under ordinary stove treatment, and should not be
over-potted. When the pot is full of roots, weak liquid manure
should be applied once or twice a week in the growing and
flowering period.

VINCA,

The stove species of this genus, V. rosea, and V. 7. alba are
excellent free-flowering plants, which, when well grown and
full of flowers, are very attractive specimens for exhibition.
‘The stems and branches being very flexible, they can be trained
into any form. An intermediate temperature suits them best,
and they should be potted in light sandy loam with a sixth
of well-decayed manure.

JUDGING.

In judging stove flowering plants, the chief points of merit
are: (1) Profusion, quality, and freshness of the flowers;
(2) large size, brilliancy of colour, and sweet odour when pre-
sent ; and (3) size, health, vigour, and cleanness of the plant.

STOVE FOLIAGE PLANTS. 15

SECTION IT.

STOVE FOLIAGE PLANTS,

ACALYPHA.

A beautiful and easily grown genus of foliage plants, which
form fine specimens for exhibition when carefully pinched and
regulated in their growth. Among the best for this purpose
are A. macrophylla and A. musaica. A compost of peat and
loam in equal parts and a small portion of silver sand grows
them well. They thrive best in a moist stove, where they
should be kept near the glass, to obtain plenty of light to
fully bring out the beautiful colours and markings of the
leaves,

ALOCASIA.

This is a highly attractive family of plants, with bold, mas-
sive foliage, often curiously shaped, and beautifully marked
and coloured. They make grand exhibition specimens when
well grown, and are very effective plants in any collection.
Some of the best are A. macrorhiza variegata, A. metallica,
A, Thibautiana, and A, Veitehti. To grow them with the
greatest success, they require a high temperature, moist
atmosphere, and abundance of water at the root while grow-
ing. The pots should be about half-filled with drainage, and
the compost be of rich, light turfy loam, peat, and chopped
sphagnum, freely sprinkled with nodules of charcoal and sand-
stone. Clear liquid manure is very beneficial when the roots
have fully occupied the soil.

ANTHURIUM.

The large, handsome, and distinctly marked leaves of some
of the Anthuriums are very conspicuous and telling objects in
a collection of foliage plants, especially when grown and exhi-
bited without a blemish. A. magnificum, A. Vettchi’, and

16 STOVE FOLIAGE PLANTS.

A. Warocqueanum ave among the best and most distinct for
exhibition. ‘They require the same culture and treatment as
the Alocasias; giving them liberal supplies of clear liquid
manure when they are growing freely, and keeping the air
thoroughly saturated with moisture, so as to induce develop-
ment in the foliage to its fullest extent.

ARALIA.

The Aralias are a very distinct and ornamental class of
foliage plants, and the finer forms, such as A. Chabrieri,
A. elegantissima, A. Regine, A. Veitchii, and A. Veitehii gra-
cillima are in. great favour with exhibitors of plants for table
decoration. They should be grown in light loam and peat,
adding a little leaf-mould and sand, according to the texture
of theloam. Vigorous young plants produce the finest foliage,
and a succession of these should be kept up by cuttings struck
in the usual manner, or by grafting the weaker on to the
stronger growing kinds. The scion must be neatly and securely
fitted to the stock, and they should be kept in a close moist
atmosphere until union is complete. Perhaps the best method
of securing well-furnished small plants is to notch the stem
of a leading shoot at the base of the healthy and perfect
foliage, tying a handful of moss over the notch. Keep con-
stantly moist, and roots will soon push out, and when the moss
is full of them, take off the shoot with the moss and roots
intact, and pot them in a light, sharp compost. Keep closely
shaded till the roots are through the soil, and then gradually
expose to light and air. By this method well-furnished
specimens are quickly formed, with perfect foliage from the
surface of the pots,

CALADIUM.

This is an easily grown and useful class of exhibition plants,
the luxuriant growth of their brightly and diversely coloured
foliage, forming an excellent contrast with the greenery of
other subjects. It is easy to make a selection for exhibition
from among the numerous fine varieties now in cultivation,

STOVE FOLIAGE PLANTS. 17

some of the oldest and best known making grand specimens
in a short time under generous treatment. They thrive best
in rough fibry loam and peat and silver sand, sprinkled with
nodules of charcoal and bone-meal. Abundance of water, moist
air, and shading from bright sunshine assist in the produc-
tion of the finest leaves ; and when the pots become full of
roots, liquid manure should be freely applied. When the
leaves attain their full size, a drier and more airy atmosphere
deepens the colours and makes the plant more hardy for exhi-
bition. After the leaves ripen and die off in the autumn, the
pots should be laid on their sides in an intermediate tempera-
ture ; and special care must be taken to keep them at rest
without risk of becoming ‘dust dry,” as the roots are then
very liable to become “‘ mealy ” and worthless. They are easily
propagated by division of the roots, and specimens of any
size are readily formed by placing a sufficient number of strong
roots or tubers in a pot of the desired size.

CARLUDOVICA.

An elegant and useful genus of foliage plants, with a resem-
blance to palms in their habits and appearance. C. elegans
and C. palmata make the best specimens. They grow freely
in a moist stove, in a mixture of two parts peat and one of
loam, with a liberal sprinkling of silver sand. A copious
supply of liquid manure, when the plants are growing freely,
increases the size of the leaves and the elegance of the plant
for exhibition.

CISSUS.

In @. discolor we have one of the most beautiful of all
the variegated-leaved plants in cultivation. It is a free
growing stove climber, and makes a grand specimen for exhi-
bition when brought out in its best condition and neatly
trained over a suitable trellis. It thrives well in a compost
of rough turfy peat and loam, with a little old mushroom-bed
manure and sand, all well incorporated. When the pot is

filled with roots, an application once a week of clear liquid
B

18 STOVE FOLIAGE PLANTS.

manure improves the size and brightness of the colour of the
foliage. Being a deciduous plant, it should be kept rather dry
during the winter, receiving just sutlicient water to keep the
wood from shrivelling. It should be pruned, re-potted, and
started in a moist stove about three months previous to the
show, so as to have the foliage fresh and perfect. Vigorous
young specimens produce the finest leaves; and as the plant
is readily increased by cuttings, a succession of plants is easily
maintained.

CROTON.

Almost the whole of the numerous varieties of variegated-
leaved Crotons make first-rate exhibition plants, and most of
them can be grown into fine specimens in a comparatively
short time. They take a high place among foliage plants, and
when well grown and their rich colours brought out to perfec-
tion, they are objects of great attraction. They grow luxuri-
antly in a high temperature, with a close, moist atmosphere ;
and to obtain that, the ventilators require to be kept rather
close, admitting air by the side ones only, and shading the
roof to prevent the sun scorching the plants. In such a tem-
perature the plants make the largest leaves and freest growth.
When the plants have made their growth, the shading should
be gradually dispensed with, and all the light and air possible
admitted, while keeping up the high temperature, to colour
the foliage to perfection. The plants should be thoroughly
drenched with the syringe in the afternoon in summer, and in
the forenoon in winter. A good syringing with soap-suds—
two ounces of soft soap dissolved in a gallon of water is sufii-
ciently strong—once a week is beneficial to keep off insects,
as well as to give the leaves a clean, healthy appearance.
They succeed best in a turfy loam of a medium texture, with
a little bone-meal, nodules of charcoal and sandstone added
according as the nature of the loam requires them. The pots
must be well drained, and the plants must never be allowed
to get dry at the root, which immediately affects the foliage
and spoils it. Large specimens growing in pots full of their
roots may have an occasional supply of weak liquid manure,

STOVE FOLIAGE PLANTS. 19

but care must be taken not to give it too often or too rich, lest
the foliage begin to lose colour. Notching and mossing the
stem, as described for Aralias, is the best method for obtain-
ing well-furnished small plants.

CYANOPHYLLUM.

When grown to perfection, C. magnificwm forms one of
the grandest specimens for exhibition among all foliage plants.
It thrives best in a high moist temperature, in a compost of
turfy loam and peat, freely sprinkled with nodules of charcoal,
sandstone, and half-inch bones. It must have perfect drainage,
as it delights in abundance of water while growing, but it must
not be allowed to stagnate about the roots. When the plant
is growing freely, and the pot is well filled with roots, copious
supplies of clear liquid manure should be given twice a week,
which will grow the leaves to their largest dimensions. On
strong well-grown plants they should reach a length of about
4 feet, and 2 feet wide. Special attention must be paid to
this, and all other large-leaved fine foliage plants, to see that
insects do not effect a lodgment on the under side of the leaves,
where they quickly multiply and do much harm. Frequent
application of the syringe, and the careful use of weak soap-
suds in syringing, help much to keep the foliage free from
insects, clean, and healthy. The Cyanophyllum should always
be grown to a single stem, as the large and finely-marked
leaves are displayed with the best effect on such plants. It
strikes freely from cuttings of side-shoots taken off with a heel,
inserted in sandy peat, and placed in a strong bottom-heat
under a bell-glass. Young plants, when well managed, produce
the finest leaves, and in a season will make splendid specimens
for exhibition.

DICHORIZANDRA.

A pretty genus of stove plants, the flowers of which are
often as attractive as the handsome and beautifully marked
foliage. Among the best for exhibition as foliage plants are
D. metallica picta, D. mosaica, and D. vittata. They thrive

20 STOVE FOLIAGE PLANTS.

best in well-drained pots, in a mixture of equal portions of
fibry loam, peat, and leaf-mould, with a sprinkling of silver
sand. A moist stove temperature and copious supplies of
water at the root, with daily syringings and shade from bright
sunshine, grows them well. After the pots are well filled with
roots, clear liquid manure may be given once a week; but it
must not be overdone, to cause rank growth and loss of colour
in the foliage. They require to have a thorough rest during
winter, but they must be kept in the stove and water with-
held, as they do not bear cold with impunity.

DIEFFENBACHIA.

A free-growing and very effective genus of fine foliage plants,
which, under liberal treatment, produce fine exhibition speci-
mens in a comparatively short time. Some of the finest for
this purpose are D. Baraquiniana, D. Bausei, D, Jenmanii,
and D. Weirti superba. Being natives of the tropical parts of
South America, they require a high temperature and abundance
of moisture to grow them well. They delight in rich open
compost, of turfy loam and peat, with leaf-mould and sand
freely intermixed, and a little dry cow-dung rubbed down
amongst it. After the roots have reached the side of the
pots, they are much benefited by frequent doses of clear liquid
manure.

DRACAINA.

Like the Croton, the Draczna is indispensable to the exhibi-
tor of foliage plants. Numerous varieties, with richly coloured
leaves and graceful habit, have appeared during recent years,
among which it is easy to select good kinds for exhibition.
They thrive well in rich fibry loam, with a little peat, sand,
and nodules of charcoal, and should be grown in an atmos-
phere saturated with moisture and shaded from bright sun,
to fully develop the leaves. With abundance of moisture in
the air, no syringing should be necessary, and as a rule they
are finer without it. Dracenas are extremely easy to pro-
pagate, as every inch of the stem will root and grow, inserted

STOVE FOLIAGE PLANTS. ?1

in sand in a strong bottom-heat, Tall plants, with bare stems
and good heads, should be notched and mossed immediately
below the leaves ; and as soon as the moss is full of roots, take
off the tops and pot them with the moss intact, shading them
in a warm moist place till they are well established, and they
will soon make nice useful plants.

FICUS.

This genus provides many useful plants which are more or
less ornamental, the most noteworthy being F. Parecelli. As
an exhibition plant it is one of the most striking and attrac-
tive. It has also a good habit, and can with very little trouble
be grown into a symmetrical specimen. It requires an open
compost of loam and peat, and an abundance of water while
growing. It should be syringed often to prevent the attacks
of red spider, which is its worst enemy. It should be placed
near the glass, so that the ivory-white blotches may be well
brought out on the leaves. The strongest shoots must be
pinched, and the others tied into position where necessary, to
form a symmetrical well-furnished pyramid. As it approaches
the resting period, water should be gradually withheld, and
the plants placed in an intermediate temperature.

HIBISCUS.

The only one of this genus suitable for cultivation as a fine
foliage plant for exhibition is H. Cooper’. It forms a fine
specimen, and in variety of colour it equals, if it does not
excel, any other foliage plant in cultivation. In its young state
it should be potted amongst fibry loam, peat, sand, and leaf-
mould, but when it has attained to a large size, soil of the
poorest description should be used in potting—starving it, as
it were, into colour. It requires a strong heat and a position
close to the glass to bring out the various rich colours in their
greatest perfection.

MARANTA.

A genus of useful and easily cultivated plants; but being
natives of moist warm regions, they require careful handling

32 STOVE FOLIAGE PLANTS.

to withstand the dry cool atmosphere of exhibition tents,
Among the best kinds are M. Lindenti and M. Veitchti. To
grow good specimens and bring out the full beauty of their
leaves, a high temperature and moist atmosphere are abso-
lutely necessary. They thrive well in a mixture of fibry peat
and loam, with a small proportion of silver sand and a sprink-
ling of bone-meal, and should receive copious supplies of water
at the roots when growing. Keep them rather dry in the
stove to rest them during winter.

MUSA.

A genus of large-leaved noble-looking plants, most of which
grow far too tall for ordinary stoves; but Jf Cavendishii,
AM. coceinea, and AL, zebrina are well adapted for culture as
exhibition plants. Their cultivation is simple and easy if they
are kept clean, and a proper degree of heat and moisture main-
tained. Under such conditions they soon rush up into large
specimens, their handsome leaves producing quite a tropical
appearance wherever they are placed. They should be potted
in rough rich loam and sand, and when pot-bound they should
be heavily top-dressed with rich manure.

PANDANTS.

A handsome genus of very graceful foliage plants, with
leaves mostly of a green colour; but 7. javanicus variegatus
and P.Veitehii combine elegance with a fine light variegation,
and may be considered the best for exhibition. Young shoots
of the purest and slenderest character, springing from the
base of the stem, should be taken off with a heel, potted in
sandy soil, and plunged in a propagating-house, where they
will soon take root. They should be shifted on as they require
it, but using small pots in comparison to the size of the plants,
When they have reached specimen size, they should be potted
in coarse sandy loam, with plenty of pieces of sandstone and
charcoal. They should get all the light possible without
injury from bright sunshine, to produce perfect variegation.
When removing the plants to the exhibition, the leaves should

STOVE FOLIAGE PLANTS. 23

be tied up to the centre, and carefully wrapped round with
cloth, to prevent their spines doing injury to other plants
placed near them during transit.

PAULLINIA.

The best of this genus for exhibition is P. thalietrifulia, the
habit of which is scandant, but by close pinching it can be
made to assume the bush form, when it very much resembles
a specimen of some of the exotic ferns. It forms the best
exhibition specimen, however, when it is trained on a balloon
or pyramidal trellis. It grows freely when potted in light
loamy soil and leaf-mould, kept in a moist warm atmosphere,
syringed daily while growing, and supplied with weak liquid
manure when the pot is filled with roots.

PAVETTA.

There are few species of decorative foliage plants that equal
P. horlonivs in attractiveness, when its beautifully marked
leaves are exhibited in their best condition. It is closely allied
to Ixora, and succeeds well under similar treatment. The soil
best suited for its growth is fibry peat and loam, with a few
half-inch bones, and about one-fourth of silver sand. The
plant should be repeatedly pinched while young, to make it
branch out into a bushy specimen, which it does slowly. After
growth is complete, it should be well exposed to the sun, to
bring out the beauty of the markings on its leaves.

PHILODENDRON.

A large genus of tropical plants, of easy cultivation, and
among which are some noble-looking specimens for the pur-
poses of the exhibitor. Few foliage plants can compare with
P. Andreanum for stately effect, and P. Lindenii and several
others are nearly as striking and effective. Natives of the
warmer parts of America, they luxuriate in a high moist
atmosphere, with a rich open soil to grow in, and copious sup-
plies of water both at the roots and overhead. When the pots
are full of roots, liquid manure may be freely given with the

24 STOVE FOLIAGE PLANTS.

best effect. They are easily propagated by cuttings of the
strong stems, which quickly root and form fine plants.

RHOPALA.

An elegant genus of fine foliage plants, some of which are
very useful for decorative purposes, as well as furnishing
beautiful specimen plants for the exhibitor. Among the finest
are I. corcovadensis, R. elegantissima, and R. Verveeneana, which
all grow best in a stove temperature, although they also thrive
well in a warm greenhouse. A compost of fibry loam and
peat, with charcoal nodules and sand, grows them well. They
delight in moisture while making growth, but should be gra-
dually exposed to air and light, and, placed in an intermediate
temperature, they will retain their foliage in a perfect condi-
tion through the whole year, and are thus nearly always avail-
able. They strike freely from cuttings placed under a bell-
glass in a strong bottom-heat, or the tops may be notched and
mossed, when good-sized plants are secured at once.

SANCHEZIA.

The only species of this genus suitable for exhibition as a
foliage plant is S. nolalis vartegata. This is a widely cultivated
plant, which grows freely, and makes a handsome specimen
when its leaves are fully developed and their variegation well
brought out. It should be potted in equal parts of fibry loam
and peat, with some small bits of charcoal and silver sand.
It must be grown near the glass and shaded only to prevent
scorching, and have the flowers nipped out as they appear.
The leaves should be frequently sponged to keep them clear
of aphides, which prove harmful to them when in a young
state.

SONERILA.
This is a genus of beautiful dwarf-growing plants, as much
admired for the beauty of their flowers as for their foliage. The

best for their foliage are S. margaritacea Hendersonti, S. m.
marmorata, and 8. m. superba, which all possess a branching,

STOVE FOLIAGE PLANTS. 35

compact habit, and form very neat specimens. They bloom
freely, and the flowers look well; but, like all plants when
grown specially for their foliage, the flower-buds should be
nipped out as they appear. A compost of two parts fibrous
peat and one of chopped sphagnum, sand, and charcoal nodules
grows them well, They should receive plenty of water and
shade in summer, but be well exposed to the sun and kept
slightly dry when resting.

SPH-EROGYNE.

The plants belonging to this genus are highly ornamental,
and among the best for exhibition are 8. ¢mpertalix and S. lati-
Jolia. Under proper treatment their leaves grow to a large
size, and form noble-looking plants; but to secure perfect
foliage the plants must be grown in a moist warm temperature
and well shaded. They very much resemble the Cyanophyllum,
and thrive well under the same treatment.

TERMINALIA,

The only species of this genus suitable as a foliage plant for
exhibition is 7. elegans. Its persistent habit of growing with
a single stem makes it rather difficult to work into a large
specimen. It thrives well in a mixture of loam and peat with
about a fourth of silver sand. To produce a large specimen,
the plant should be cut down while young, and repeated if
necessary to secure fowr shoots, which should be bent outwards
and staked, to keep them clear of each other. A native of
Madagascar, it luxuriates in a warm moist atmosphere, with
plenty of water when growing, but should be kept moderately
dry in winter. It is much benefited by a judicious application
of liquid manure, like many other foliage plants; but care
must be exercised in its use, as leaves with rich delicate colours
are liable to be spoilt if the plants receive too much feeding.

THEOPHRASTA,

A genus of stately foliaged plants, with large coriaceous
leaves of great substance and beauty. Of those in cultivation,

26 STOVE FOLIAGE PLANTS.

T. imperialis and T. macrophylla form grand specimens for
exhibition. Natives of Brazil, they luxuriate in a strong moist
heat while making their growth, with a copious supply of
water at the root and overhead. When growth is well ripened,
they stand in an intermediate temperature a long time in fine
condition. They thrive well in a mixture of fibry loam and
peat, with a good sprinkling of half-inch bones and sand; and
while the plant is growing and the roots active, frequent doses
of clear liquid manure encourage the development of the
largest-sized leaves.

TILLANDSIA.

An extensive genus of beautiful stove plants, most of which
are epiphytal, although under proper treatment they thrive
well in pots and baskets. Among those cultivated as foliage
plants, most of which also produce lovely flowers, the best
known are T. musaica, T. splendens, and T. zebrina. They
are an easily grown class; but while they are making growth
they thrive best in a high moist temperature, with a copious
supply of water at the root and heavy syringing overhead
daily. The compost they delight in is a fibry loam and peat,
with a sprinkling of half-inch bones, and nodules of charcoal
and sandstone, in well-drained pots. They should be kept
rather dry while at rest during the dormant season.

JUDGING.

In this class above most others, large size is of small value,
unless accompanied by all-round excellence. Under-sized
foliage plants are also of little value, however well done they
may be. A useful medium size, according to the nature of the
plant, with every part fully developed, is always preferable.

The properties of foliage plants are: (1.) Condition, habit,
symmetry, and size of the specimen; (2.) the foliage healthy,
clean, and perfect; and (3.) the colour and variegation of the
leaves should be clear, vivid, and in good contrast.

GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS.

Io
—~T

SECTION III.
GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS.

ACACTA.

A numerous genus of free-flowering and highly ornamental
plants, chiefly natives of the temperate regions of Australia,
and thriving well in a cool greenhouse. A. armata, A. Drum-
mondi, and A, Riceana ave among the finest species for exhi-
bition. They grow well in equal parts of light turfy loam and
peat, with plenty of silver sand and a sprinkling of sandstone
and charcoal nodules. The plants should be cut back after
flowering, and with the aid of a few degrees more heat, and
a thorough syringing overhead twice daily, they will soon
break into growth, when they should be re-potted. Give as
small shifts as possible, and make the soil quite firm in the
pot, so as to induce sturdy and more floriferous growth. The
drainage must be ample, so as to allow copious supplies of
water to be given during growth, and when the roots have
fully occupied the soil a few doses of liquid manure are very
beneficial, They are apt to make rampant growth under
liberal treatment, and the strongest shoots should be regularly
pinched to form a good bushy specimen. Such straggling
kinds as A. Riceana may have the shoots run up the roof of
the greenhouse on strings till the flowers appear, when they
can be neatly trained over a suitable trellis for exhibition.
Acacias are very hardy greenhouse plants, and after they have
made their growth and set their flower-buds, they may be
placed out of doors, along with other greenhouse plants, to
ripen their wood, and they will flower the better for it next
season. They must be taken back to the greenhouse before
any danger from frost arises.

ACROPHYLLUM.

A large specimen of 4. venoswm, when full of its beauti-
ful flower-spikes, has a charming effect among other plants

3S GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS.

in a collection. Its pinkish-white flowers are so very dis-
tinct from all others that it is always a welcome subject at
summer shows. It should be potted in the beginning of
March amongst fibrous peat and about one-fourth of sharp
sand, and kept in a cool airy place in the greenhouse. Being
of a compact habit, it requires very little tying or trimming,
but it must be kept clean by syringing daily during the
summer. It should be well supplied with water at all times,
and a little liquid manure, given two or three times before
flowering, tends to develop the flower-spikes to their fullest
extent and beauty.

AGAPANTHUS.

The blue African lily is a plant that suits itself to almost
any treatment, and being of a hardy nature and tenacious
of life, its culture is often neglected. It is not a first-class
exhibition plant, but its graceful arching leaves, independent
of its fine flowers, make it a good associate amongst stiffer-
growing plants. Two of the best varieties are A. wmbellatus
flore pleno and A. umbellatus maximus. They should be potted
amongst rough loam, sand, and decomposed manure, and
receive an abundance of both clear water and liquid manure
in summer, but should be kept drier in the winter season,

APILTELENIS.

An old-fashioned genus of greenhouse plants,-of a rather
straggling habit of growth, but which by skilful treatment
make very beautiful and attractive exhibition specimens.
Among the finest for that purpose are A. macrantha pur-
purea, A. (Phaenocoma) prolifera Barnesi’, and A. purpurea
grandiflora, Young plants require to be kept well pinched,
to form a good foundation for a large well-furnished specimen.
The plants grow well in good fibrous peat and silver sand,
with plenty of nodules of charcoal and sandstone sprinkled
through it; draining the pots thoroughly, and potting very
firm, As the plants grow, the shoots should be neatly trained
in the desired form, using as few stakes as possible, and neatly

GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS, 29

“threading” the intermediate shoots to keep them into their
position. The attractive silvery appearance of their stems
and leaves, and the bright rosy-purple of their beautiful
“everlasting” flowers, make the Aphelexis always very inte-
resting objects.

AZALEA.

With the exception, perhaps, of the Erica, there is no tribe
of greenhouse flowering plants so useful as the Azalea to the
exhibitor. The numerous first-class varieties of A. indica
which are now in cultivation give the exhibitor a wide choice
in selecting the best for his purpose. In flower they make
a brilliant and highly attractive display, and are a prominent
feature of flower-shows in spring and early summer. A cool
greenhouse is their best winter quarters ; and when they are
wanted for early spring shows, they must be introduced to
heat in due time to get them into flower. They bear mild
forcing remarkably well, and from six to eight weeks, accord-
ing to the variety, is generally sufficient to get them into full
bloom. A temperature of 55° at night, rising 5° to 10° in
the daytime, is better than harder forcing. Keep plenty of
moisture in the atmosphere, and shade from bright sunshine.
When the flowers begin to expand, reduce both heat and
moisture, and gradually harden them off, so as to enable them
to stand exposure at the exhibition. They should be re-potted
when needful soon after flowering; using fibry peat, and a
little turfy loam and leaf-mould, with a good sprinkling of
silver sand and charcoal nodules. Place them in a moist
atmosphere, with a heat of 60° to 65° at night, and shade
from sunshine till they have made their growth and set their
buds, when they should be gradually hardened off, and may
be set out of doors in autumn to thoroughly ripen; moving
them into winter quarters before there is any danger of frost.

BORONIA.

The Boronias are a useful and elegant genus of greenhouse
plants, and form handsome specimens when properly treated.

30 GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS,

Among the best for exhibition are B. Drummonddi, B. elatior,
B. hetrophylla, and B. pinnata. They thrive best in fibry
peat and loam, with a good sprinkling of sand, and small bits
of sandstone and charcoal freely mixed. The pots should be
well drained, and the soil made very firm. Young plants
should be closely pinched, so as to form good bushy specimens,

BOUVARDIA.

There are many species aud varieties of these useful green-
house plants in cultivation. Bouvardias are not often used
as exhibition plants, but when they are well cultivated and
trained, they make very handsome and attractive specimens.
A few of the best varieties for this purpose are Alfred
Neuner, Brilliant, Dazzler, Hogarth, President Garfield; and
Vreelandi. They should be potted in a compost of two
parts of sandy loam, one of peat, and one of sand and de-
composed manure well dried and rubbed down. The best
way to grow and train them into specimens is to pinch them
well while the plants are young, and keep them near the
glass to secure strong, sturdy growth. The shoots should be
spread out like those of a trained Erica, and if the flower-
trusses stand erect without stakes, so much the better. When
the plants begin to flower, they are greatly benefited by liquid
manure from sheep-droppings and soot.

CAMELLIA.

For many years the Camellia was the favourite winter and
spring flower, and although it has had to give place to a cer-
tain extent to the improved forms of the Chrysanthemum, still
as a greenhouse flowering plant it has few rivals. The follow-
ing are twelve of the best: Alba plena, Augustine superba,
Bella portuensis, C. M. Hovey, Countess of Orkney, Fimbriata,
Imbricata, Jubilee, Lavinia Maggi, Mathotiana, Targioni, and
Valtevaredo. Their cultivation is similar to that of the
Azalea, except that the major part of the compost should be
turfy loam, with a little peat, rotted manure, and bone-meal
added. The potting, when necessary, should be done after

GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS. 31

flowering, and before much growth is made; but oftener a
top-dressing of rich soil is all that is required, especially with
large plants. A vinery, if not too much shaded, is an excellent
house for them to grow in; but as soon as the growth is
finished the plants should be hardened off, to prepare them
for standing in a sheltered place outside. Success for the
next year depends upon judicious watering and perfect ripen-
ing of the wood during summer andautumn. The buds should
be thinned to one or two on each shoot, and when they begin
to swell, the plants should be watered with liquid manure
until the flowers are fully expanded.

CLIANTHUS.

This is a genus of quick-growing plants, which, although
scandant in habit, if well pinched and the shoots regulated,
are capable of being grown into neat bushes suitable for
exhibition. Two of the best species for the purpose are C
Dampieri and C. puniceum magnificum. The soil best suited
for their growth isa rich fibrous loam and peat in equal parts,
with a little sand and leaf-mould added. When the flowers
appear, a few doses of clear liquid manure greatly improves
the quality of the blooms.

CORREA.

A genus of neat-growing, fine showy plants, of easy cul-
ture. Two of the best for exhibition are C. cardinalis and
C. magnifica, the former scarlet, and the latter of a white
colour. The soil best suited for them is half light loam, the
other half consisting of peat, leaf-mould, and sand. The plants
should be slightly pruned after flowering, and as soon as they
have started to grow, they should be potted, and after their
growth is made, treated the same as Camellia.

CRASSULA.

This genus, known also as Kalosanthes, belongs to a succt-
lent class of plants, with very pretty flowers, mostly of a
scarlet colour, which, when freely produced, have a showy and

32 GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS.

charming effect. C. coccinea and C. jasminea are very suitable
subjects for exhibition, especially as amateurs’ plants. They
should be potted amongst sandy loam in a lumpy state, with
the addition of broken pots and bits of old mortar and chayr-
coal. They do not require much water, especially in winter,
but a little liquid manure when they are in full growth gives
them a vigorous and healthy appearance, and much improves
the flowers. They should be trained with the lower branches
in a horizontal position, and the others staked thinly and
equally over the whole of the half-globe shape. The pinching
of the tops to form side-shoots should be all done at once, so
that the heads of flowers which appear the following year may
be all developed at the same time.

CYTISUS.

This is a rather extensive genus, the greenhouse species of
which are mostly yellow-flowered compact-growing shrubs,
and are very useful decorative plants. The following are
among the best for exhibition specimens:—C. cancariensis,
C. Everestianus, C. filipes, and C. racemosus. They all grow
freely from cuttings and seeds, but C. filipes is shown to best
advantage when grafted on a stronger-growing species, on a
stem about three feet high, where, from its graceful drooping
habit, it forms a very beautiful specimen. They grow freely
in a compost of fibry loam and peat, with a free sprinkling
of sand and charcoal. After they have flowered, they should
be pruned into shape and repotted. When carefully handled,
they form nice pyramidal specimens ; and when the roots fill
the pots, they should be liberally supplied with water and
occasional doses of liquid manure till growth is finished. They
may then be set out of doors to ripen, and be wintered in a
cool house, introducing them into a warmer house if necessary
to get them into flower for the show,

DAPHNE.

This is a genus of evergreen shrubs, chiefly noted for the
sweet perfume of their flowers, and being of a good habit,

GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS. 33

make, when well grown, fine exhibition plants. Among the
best greenhouse kinds are D. elegantissima and D. indica rubra.
They grow freely in a compost of peat, leaf-mould, and sand,
and require frequent pinching when young, to get them into
a nice bushy form. Good drainage and an ample supply of
water while growing are necessary. To secure a profusion
of bloom, the main point to be observed is the thorough ripen-
ing of the wood by full exposure to light and air, and keeping
the plants rather dry.

DRACOPHYLLUM.

The most valuable species of this genus is D. gracile. It
makes a fine specimen, either trained on a trellis or pinched
and neatly staked out in bush form, and should be in every
collection for exhibition. It grows best in rough fibrous peat
and one-fifth of silver sand. If trained on a trellis, the
flowering shoots should be carefully brought to the outside
before the flowers begin to open.

EPACRIS.

This is an elegant genus of plants, which is generally
associated with the Erica, and although natives of different
countries, they thrive under almost the same conditions. A
few excellent kinds for exhibition are Hyacinthiflora can-
didissima, H. fulgens, Miniata splendens, Rubra superba,
Sunset, and The Bride. The soil best suited for their cul-
ture is rough fibrous peat with a liberal addition of silver
sand, After the plants have flowered, the strong-growing
kinds should be cut down to within two or three eyes of the
old wood, the weaker ones being left a little longer. They
should be shifted just after they have started to grow, making
the soil very firm, and kept in a close frame till the roots are
established in the new soil, after which more air should be
given, and the sashes be ultimately removed altogether. It
is of much importance in growing the Epacris and Erica that
Vicissitudes of dryness and heat be guarded against, and there-
fore they should never be set in an exposed position, where

c

34 GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS.

they might suffer from heat and drought. The best mode of
training is that which exhibits the greatest quantity of flower
with the least degree of stiffness or formality. The shoots
should be arching gracefully to the outside, and kept in
position by neat stakes and green-coloured threads, which
should be removed, if possible, when the plants are exhibited.

ERICA.

As flowering specimens, the Ericas or Cape Heaths may he
considered the standard greenhouse plants for exhibition, and
when staged in first-class condition, are universally admired,
and stand high in cultural merit. To manage them well, they
require a house for themselves, or they may be associated with
such hard-wooded greenhouse plants as thrive under somewhat
similar conditions. They are a very durable race of plants,
and by careful management and strict attention to their re-
quirements they can be most successfully grown and exhibited
for many years. There are many species and varieties of
Erica suitable for exhibition, among which the following hold
a prominent place:—£. Aitoniana Turnbullii, E. aristata
wajor, E. Carendishii, E. elegans glauca, E. Marnochiana, E.
Massonil, E. vetorta major, E. tricolor Wilsont, E. ventricosa,
E. v. splendens, E, vestita, and E, VWietsarie. The soil they
thrive in is good fibry brown peat, torn up into small frag-
ments and the finer particles left out; to this should be
added a liberal amount of silver sand, and nodules of charcoal
and sandstone, varying the quantity according to the quality
of the peat. Drain the pots carefully, and press the soil as
firm as possible with the potting-stick, finishing off with a
thin layer of fine soil. A judicious and liberal amount of
water must be given at the roots at all times, but a more
copious supply is necessary during the season of active growth.
If the ball of soil once becomes dry, the small fibry rootlets
will suffer to such an extent as to cripple the energies of the
whole plant, and, if it does not die off in consequence, it will
take years to recover itself. The best time to re-pot is when
the plants are starting into growth. Large shifts must be

GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS. 35

avoided ; from a six to an eight-inch pot being enough at one
time, and possibly for two or three years, all depending upon
the progress and health of the plants. Only enough artificial
heat should be applied to the house during winter as will keep
out frost and dispel damp; and when heat is employed for
the latter purpose, it should be applied during the day and in
fine weather, with a little air passing through the ventilators.

Mildew is the great enemy of those plants, and when it
appears, it must be immediately attended to. <A slight dusting
with flowers of sulphur over the affected part is the best
antidote, and this should be done in autumn over the whole
stock as a preventive.

As soon as the plants are done flowering, the old flowers
must be carefully removed, and the long shoots pruned or
trained into position. In training, it is best to “thread” the
shoots into their place with fine but strong green thread,
thereby lessening the number of stakes, which injure the roots
and are very unsightly when used too freely. This threading
is the best method for training the shoots of all such exhi-
bition plants, because when neatly done it is scarcely noticed,
and the thread lasts longer than any other tying material.

ERIOSTEMON.

A genus of dwarf evergreen shrubby plants, of a free-flower-
ing nature and of easy culture. The different species flower
at various seasons, and make a beautiful display when well
cultivated. Two of the best for exhibition are E, cuspidatum.
rubrum and E. pulchellum. They succeed in a cool airy green-
house, and thrive best in a compost of peat and loam in equal
proportions, with a good dash of silver sand. Like most hard-
wooded plants, they must be firmly potted and carefully
watered.

GENETYLLIS.

This is a small genus of beautiful plants, natives of Aus-
tralia, which require careful management to grow them suc-
cessfully, but are worth some special care, as they make
grand exhibition specimens when they are well done. Among

36 GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS.

the finest are G. fimbriata and G. tulipifera. They grow best
in a mixture of peat and turfy loam, with a free sprinkling of
silver sand; draining the pots well to prevent stagnant water
from lodging about the roots. They grow well in a cool house
along with heaths, and flower in early summer.

FUCHSIA.

When the Fuchsia is in good form and profusely flowered,
ib is a very striking feature in an exhibition. With the
amateur it is a particular favourite, and is perhaps the most
frequently seen of all plants in the cottager’s window. A few
of the best varieties for exhibition are Clipper, Emperor,
Eynsford Gem, Lucy Finnis, Phenomenal, and Walter Long.
The Fuchsia is very easy to propagate by cuttings, which,
with liberal treatment, will form good specimens for exhi-
bition in the second year. After attaining the desired size,
the plants may be exhibited for a number of years, if due
attention is paid to their management. Starting with a year-
old plant, it should be pruned into shape, and placed in heat
to break early in March. The temperature of a vinery suits
it well at this season. When the growth is about an inch in
length, the plant should be shaken out of the pot, the strongest
roots pruned, and the plant replaced in the smallest pot the
roots will easily fit into, in a mixture of sandy loam and leaf-
mould. When the roots reach the side of the pot, the plant
should be shifted into one two sizes larger, using a rich com-
post of fibry loam, well-rotted manure, bone-meal, and woot
ashes, with sufficient sharp sand to keep all sweet. As soon
as the roots run freely in the new soil, remove the plant to the
greenhouse, where, by a judicious application of liquid manure,
pinching off the flowers till wanted, stopping the shoots, and
careful training, a fine pyramidal plant can be grown during
the season, which will form a splendid specimen for exhibition
in the autumn.

IMANTOPHYLLUM.

A small genus (known also as Clivia) of remarkably handsome
plants, and very useful for exhibition. New varieties are being

GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS. 37

raised, with a richness of colour and beauty which may soon
displace the older kinds, and furnish a good variety for selection
of this most useful, easily grown, and ornamental class of green-
house plants. A few of the best varieties of Z mtniatune
are Aurantiacum, Giganteum, General Gordon, Perfection
Splendens, and Superbum. They thrive well in a strong
rich turfy loam, with a third part of sand and leaf-mould
added. After the plants have attained to specimen size,
they should not be potted every year, but be top-dressed
with a rich mixture of soil and manure. They flower better
when pot-bound than when allowed too much root-room. They
should be kept in the warmest end of the greenhouse, and
be supplied with weak liquid manure when in active growth.
The flowering may be forwarded, if required, by placing them
in a vinery or forcing-house, as they bear heat and forcing
well,
LAPAGERLA.

The well-known and popular L. 72a and its white variety
are magnificent evergreen climbing plants, and when trained
on a balloon trellis make splendid exhibition specimens. To
flower them well, they require a light airy position in the
house close to the glass, so as to thoroughly mature the wood,
for on this, to a great extent, depends the quantity and
quality of the flowers. It is a good plan to train the young
shoots on strings stretched along the house near the glass,
until they complete their growth and show flower, when they
should be brought down and regularly trained over the trellis,
arranging the flowers that they may all show on the outside
of the specimen when they are fully expanded. The plants
should be potted in rough turfy peat and loam, with lumps of
white sandstone and charcoal, and a sprinkling of bone-meal.
The pots should be well drained, as the roots require an
abundance of water during the time of growth, and weak
liquid manure, given once a week, after the pots are filled with
roots, will greatly benefit the plants.

38 GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS.

LASIANDRA.

This genus is now generally included under Pleroma, but
the beautiful free-flowering species known in gardens as Last-
andra macrantha floribunda makes such a fine specimen that
it deserves special notice, as with proper treatment it is among
the very best of flowers, of an attractive rich violet-purple

colour. The plant thrives well in light turfy loam with a
sprinkling of bone-meal. In such soil, and in a warm green-
house, it makes a vigorous sturdy growth, which, by careful
pinching and regulating, eventually forms a grand specimen,
The large flowers are freely produced on the ends of the shoots,
and a judicious application of clear liquid manure for a fort-
night before they begin to open adds to their size, brilliancy,
and endurance. The plants flower best when pot-bound, and
when they have attained specimen size they will thrive and
flower in profusion for years without shifting, if due attention
is given to top-dressing, and feeding them with liquid manure
when growth is taking place, as well as when they are coming
into flower.

LESCHENAULTIA.

This is a beautiful genus of New Holland plants, the shrubby
species of which are of great value for exhibition when they
are staged in first-class condition. The two best kinds are
L. biloba major and L. formosa. These plants very much re-
semble heaths, but being scarcely so hardy, they require more
heat in winter, otherwise a heath-house suits them well. Like
most of the New Holland plants, they thrive best in sandy
peat. They should not be too much confined in the pots, but
be shifted on as they require it, taking care not to give too
much water when the plants are newly potted. The same
mode of training as that recommended for the Heath suits
them well.

LILIUM.

This is a genus of bulbous plants, comprising a large number
of species, with splendid flowers, all eminently useful for exhi-

GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS, 39

bition, and being easily managed, they ought to be more
widely cultivated amongst amateurs than is the case. The best
species, are DL. auratum and L. speciosum, with their numerous
varieties. The soil best suited for their culture is one-half turfy
loam, one-fourth peat or leaf-mould and sharp sand, and one-
fourth of decayed cow-manure, with some bone-meal added.
To secure early specimens, a few pots should be exposed to the
influence of sun in the beginning of February, and a little
water given to start them. When the shoots are an inch
above the soil, the bulbs should be turned out of the pots, and
all the old soil picked clear away without injuring the young
roots. Clumps of from three to eight bulbs, according to the
kind, should be potted in well-drained 12-inch pots, pressing
the soil firm about the roots, and leaving a little space for sur-
face-dressing. The plants should then be placed close to the
glass in a frame where frost cannot reach them, and watered
very sparingly till the roots are well through the soil. An
abundance of air should be allowed to play amongst the leaves
on all favourable occasions, that they may be firm and leathery
from the bottom of the shoot upwards, otherwise they will fall
off prematurely and weaken and disfigure the plant. After
the buds are set, liquid manure from soot and sheep-droppings
should be given once a week until the flowers begin to open.
The plants may be kept in the greenhouse to bring them in
early, or set in a sheltered place outside to keep them back.
If they are outside, the pots should be protected from the sun,
and a cool moist air maintained around them. The flowering
shoots should be supported with neat green-painted stakes,
and the leaves kept clean by sponging. After flowering the
plants should be gradually dried to ripen them, but the soil
should never get dust dry even while the bulbs are at rest.

NERIUM.

This old-fashioned plant, N. Oleander, although nearly for-
gotten in gardens, may still be seen struggling for existence
in some cottager’s window or amateur’s greenhouse, with long
straggling branches and a few small flowers half-way up the

40 GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS.

shoots, when, by giving a short rest to the plants and judi-
cious pruning and pinching of the growth, with a little warmth
when making wood, fine bushy plants with a profusion of
bloom would be the result. IV. O. rubrum and N. O. album are
the two best for exhibition. Unless the plants are wanted for
forcing earlier, they should be pruned in March, and started by
watering and placing them in mild heat, such as is afforded to
a newly started vinery. After the shoots are several inches
long, the plants should be taken to the warm end of the
greenhouse, and the growth regulated and pinched if neces-
sary. When the flower-buds appear, all terminal shoots should
be pinched, and the plants regularly watered with weak liquid
manure once or twice a week. After flowering, the ripening
of the wood and resting of the plants are necessary to future
success.

PIMELEA,

A genus of shrubby plants, mostly with white flowers, which
they produce in great abundance, and are specially attractive
as exhibition plants. Two of the best are P. Hendersonii and
P. spectabilis rosea. Being natives of New Holland, the soil
that suits them best is fibry peat with a little loam, leaf-
mould, and sand. When necessary, they should be shifted in
early spring, but large plants continue to do well for several
years with a top-dressing only. Although they do not force
well, they can, by being subjected to a gentle moist heat, be
brought into flower earlier than if grown in the greenhouse.
They are the better of a little heat to start them, because it
gives longer time to ripen their wood in autumn, which is very
important for the success of these plants. They are of a bushy
habit of growth, and require very little training, except pinch-
ing the strong shoots, and regulating the others to get them
into proper form.

PLEROMA,

A genus of very ornamental shrubs, with showy blue and
purple flowers and ovate acuminate-shaped leaves of a shining
green colour. The best for exhibition is P. elegans, The same

GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS. Al

kind of soil and general culture recommended for Pimelea
suits them well, except that they have a straggling habit, and
require to be trained into conical shape, to show off the flowers
to the best advantage. A large specimen, well furnished with
healthy foliage and a profusion of flowers, stands high as an
exhibition subject.

PLUMBAGO.

P. capensis and P. rosea coccinea are the best exhibition
plants of this genus. They are easily managed, and being
rapid growers, can be trained into a large specimen in a short
time, They thrive well in equal parts sandy loam, peat, and
well-decayed manure, with a little silver sand. They should
be neatly staked, so that the panicles of flower be all placed in
the best position to be well seen, and drooping free and grace-
fully all over the plant. They should be liberally fed with
liquid manure previous to flowering.

POLYGALA.

A genus of showy plants of easy culture. The best of the
greenhouse species are P. acuminata and P. grandis, They
thrive best in a mixture of peat and loam in equal parts and
some sharp sand. They should be trained in bush form, as
they break freely when the growth is pinched; and if supplied
with liquid manure when growing, they form dense and pro-
fusely flowered bushes.

RHODODENDRON.

This genus of beautiful flowering shrubs is so well known
and highly appreciated that its excellent qualities need not be
commented on here. Our remarks are almost entirely restricted
to the greenhouse kinds or Indian species. Some of the best
and freest flowering, including the new hybrids, are Balsam-
ineeflorum and its varieties, Album and Aureum, Denisonii,
Duchess of Edinburgh, Jasminiflorum carminatum, M‘Nabii,
President, Princess Alexandra, Taylori, and Virginalis. The

42 GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS.

cultivation of Rhododendrons in pots and boxes has to be con-
ducted with great care and consideration; any mistake in
allowing the plants to get dry, which, from the nature of the
soil they grow in, is very apt to be the case unless they are
closely watched, may ultimately result in failure. They may
also be over-watered, which is equally ruinous, but which only
occurs through imperfect drainage. The soil they succeed best
in is rich fibrous peat with a little leaf-mould, and rough
silver sand sufficient to keep the whole open. Large plants do
not require to be often re-potted, but they should be annually
top-dressed in spring, with the same compost and rich decayed
manure.

They should also be watered with weak liquid manure, to
assist them in developing their flower-trusses to the greatest
perfection. Very little training is needed for large speci-
mens, except tying the shoots to keep them clear of each
other, and equalising the space in which they have to grow.
Damp on the flowers should be guarded against, and no water
allowed on the foliage while the plants are in bloom, The
flowering shoots should be well supported, to prevent them
shaking when being removed to the exhibition.

Hardy Rhododendrons are sometimes exhibited, and a grand
display they make when in full flower. Instead of pot culture
for this purpose, the plants should be grown on a peat border
specially prepared for them. They should be transplanted
every second year to confine the roots, and when wanted, they
can be lifted and potted after the buds are set and matured,
and afterwards transferred to the greenhouse to bloom.

RHYNCHOSPERMUM.

R. jasminoides is the only species of this genus of import-
ance as an exhibition plant. When it is properly grown and
trained into a large and profusely flowered specimen, it has
an attractive appearance, and is of considerable weight in
competition. It grows freely in a mixture of loam and peat,
with a little silver sand and charcoal. It should be trained
on a balloon trellis; but in order to get it into a proper

GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS. 43

flowering condition, the shoots should be run up thinly on
strings close under the glass until the flowers begin to appear,
when they should be taken down carefully and trained
equally over the trellis, turning the leaves and flowers out-
wards during the operation. Weak liquid manure should
at this time be given twice a week, and continued until the
flowers are well expanded.

STATICE.

Amongst greenhouse flowering plants the Statice has few
rivals, and a large specimen, well flowered, has a very imposing
effect in a collection of exhibition plants. They are best shown
to advantage when the flowers are newly developed, as they
have a rather faded appearance afterwards. They are of a
compact habit of growth, and require a warm greenhouse
during winter; but ordinary greenhouse temperature suits
them well during summer. 8S. Holfordi, S. imbricata, and
S. profusa are the best for exhibition. They thrive best in
turfy loam, leaf-mould, and thoroughly decayed manure, with
a sprinkling of sharp sand and bone-meal. During active
growth a little weak manure-water is a good stimulant.
When large specimens have been secured, they are difficult to
handle, and are not easily re-potted, which, however, is not
necessary, as the surface soil can be removed to a depth of a
few inches, and the space filled up with rich compost, into
which the roots will soon run and luxuriate. They are easily
raised from cuttings of half-ripened wood, put in about mid-
summer in sand and fine peat, placing them in mild bottom-
heat till they are rooted. ‘The tops of the shoots can also be
notched and mossed, the same as directed for Avalias, and
when the moss is filled with roots, the tops can be taken off
and potted, keeping them shaded till they are growing freely,
and they will make nice plants in much less time than
cuttings.

44 GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS.

TETRATHECA.

This is a favourite genus with exhibitors of hardwood green-
house plants, and furnishes some of the most attractive speci-
mens in that class. The best for exhibition are T. ericefolia,
T. hirsuta, and T. verticillata. Like all New Holland plants,
they thrive well in a mixture of fibry peat and silver sand,
with a free sprinkling of nodules of charcoal and sandstone.
They require to be well drained and firmly potted, and, like all
this class of fine-rooted plants, they must have an abundant
supply of water at the roots while growing, and careful atten-
tion to watering at all times, so that they never become dry,
which quickly proves fatal to them. The shoots should be care-
fully regulated, and neatly staked in bush form, “ threading ”
the majority of the finer stems, so that the specimen is not
overloaded with stakes,—a very unnecessary and objectionable
feature in all hard-wooded specimen plants.

VALLOTA.

V. purpurea, or Cape Lily, is an evergreen bulbous plant
from South Africa, which forms a fine flowering specimen for
autumn shows. When well flowered it has a brilliant appear-
ance, the rich scarlet flowers forming a fine contrast with the
deep green foliage. Select the best bulbs, and pot them before
the roots start in rough fibry loam, sharp sand, and dry well-
rotted manure. No water should be given till the roots are
started, after which they may be set in a cold frame, exposed
to the sun with plenty air, and be liberally fed as soon as
flower-scapes appear. If wanted in flower at a given time,
they can be pushed forward in a mild forcing heat.

JUDGING.

The chief pcints in judging greenhouse flowering plants are
—(l.) Size and freshness of flowers and profusion of blooms ;
(2.) richness, purity, and substance of petals; and (3.) size,
health, and vigour of the plant.

GREENHOUSE FOLIAGE PLANTS. 45

SECTION IV.
GREENHOUSE FOLIAGE PLANTS.

ABUTILON.

A useful genus of ornamental foliage plants, the flowers of
which are also highly attractive. The variegated kinds make
handsome exhibition specimens when properly treated, the
beautifully marked foliage having a very pleasing effect.
Among the best for exhibition purposes are A. Darwinit
tesselatum, A. Sellovianum marmoratum, and A. vevillarium
igneum. They are easily cultivated, and grow freely in a
compost of light turfy loam, peat, leaf-mould, and silver sand.
The drainage should be perfect, as they delight in a copious
supply of moisture at the root while growing, but it should
never be allowed to become stagnant. The shoots must be
regularly pinched and trained as they grow, to form neat sym-
metrical specimens. They should be grown in comparatively
small pots, applying clear liquid manure to cause them to
make free growth and large leaves; and as the growth attains
maturity they should be exposed to all the light and air pos-
sible to bring out the rich colours of the foliage to the greatest
perfection.

ARALIA.

Among the Aralias which thrive well in the greenhouse
are several handsome kinds useful to the exhibitor, such as
A. (Oreopanax) dactylifolia, A. Sieboldit argentea, and A. tri-
foliata. They are easily cultivated in a compost of equal parts
of turfy loam, peat, and leaf-mould, with a free sprinkling of
silver sand and nodules of charcoal. Abundance of water
must be given whilst growth is taking place. The finest
leaves are put forth in a rather close moist atmosphere, but
special care is necessary to prevent the growth being drawn,
and air must be given on all favourable occasions. They are
easily propagated by notching and mossing the tops of the
best furnished shoots.

46 GREENHOUSE FOLIAGE PLANTS.

ARAUCARIA.

An interesting genus of coniferous plants with a symme-
trical habit of growth and pleasing appearance. When the
Specimens are brought out in their best form, they are an
effective feature in an exhibition. The best for this purpose
are A. excelsa glauca and A. Rulei elegans. They grow freely
in good fibry loam mixed with a little leaf-mould and sharp
sand. The coolest part of the greenhouse suits them well, and
when they have attained specimen size they should be kept in
rather small pots to prevent too rapid growth.

ARUNDO.

A small genus of plants belonging to the order Graminez.
The variegated species A. Dona variegata makes a tall, slender,
graceful plant, and when well grown and the stems clothed
with fresh and perfectly coloured leaves, it has a stately, airy
appearance. A native of Southern Europe where it grows by
the water-side, indicates the treatment it should receive when
grown in pots. A mixture of fibry loam, peat, and sharp river
sand suits it well.

BAMBUSA.

This is a genus of graceful plants, chiefly natives of semi-
tropical countries, where they supply the natives with numerous
articles of daily use in domestic life and for constructive pur-
poses. The bamboo-cane is the stem of one of the species,
and is a valuable plant in the rural industry of the countries
where it grows naturally, Among the best for cultivation as
exhibition specimens are B. aurea, B. Fortuner variegata, B.
gracilis, B. Simondi, and B. striata, which all grow well under
the same treatment as the Arundo. A few applications of
liquid manure are beneficial to these plants while they are
growing.

BEAUCARNEA,

A genus of plants with gracefully pendant leaves, from two
to three feet long. They have a slender stem with a thick
swelling at the base, a peculiarity which at once attracts the

GREENHOUSE FOLIAGE PLANTS. 47

attention and excites the interest of those who see it for the
first time. Among the best species are B. glauca, B. longi-
Jolia, and B. recurvata, and all are natives of Mexico. They
grow well in rich sandy loam, leaf-mould, sand, and a
sprinkling of charcoal. They should be encouraged to grow
by placing them in a little heat during the spring months,
after which they should be placed in the greenhouse, and
supplied with weak liquid manure once a week, and an abun-
dance of clear soft water at all times. They are very slow
growers; but if these instructions are carried out, it will be
found that they make good exhibition specimens in a com-
paratively short time.

CLEYERA.

The beautiful-leaved C. japonica variegata makes a very
handsome plant, and forms a fine exhibition specimen when
in first-rate condition, and four to five feet high. It thrives
well in light sandy loam and peat, and it should receive an
Occasional dose of liquid manure when the pot is full of roots.
A cool house suits it best.

COBEA.

The free-growing and attractive greenhouse climber C.
scandens variegata is the best plant of this genus for making
a suitable specimen for exhibition, and when in its best con-
dition and neatly trained on a pyramidal trellis, it has a very
fine effect. A mixture of sandy loam and peat in equal parts,
with a free sprinkling of sand and leaf-mould, grows it well.
The colour of the foliage assumes its finest tints when the
plant is a little pot-bound ; and when in that state it requires
the aid of liquid manure to grow its leaves to their largest
dimension and finest colour. It comes true from seed, but the
best way to secure fine variegation is to strike cuttings taken
off a well-coloured plant.

COPROSMA.

Of this neat-habited genus of pretty-leaved plants, C. Bauer-
iana variegata is the only suitable species for cultivating as
a foliage plant for exhibition. It is of a shrubby habit of

48 GREENHOUSE FOLIAGE PLANTS.

growth and very distinct in the variegation of its leaves. It
should be potted in two-thirds loam and one-third of sharp
sand and leaf mould. After potting in spring, the plants
should receive a little heat till the growth is made, after
which the leaves will colour best in a cool greenhouse. They
can be trained into a pyramid by frequent pinching ; but as a
longer time is required to produce a specimen than by tying
the shoots on a trellis, the grower can adopt the style of
training which best suits his purpose.

CYCAS.

This isa genus of stately plants, very often included amongst
palms, although they belong to an entirely distinct family,
but possibly the derivation of the name, which is Greek for a
palm, accounts for the mistake. Two excellent species for
exhibition purposes are C. ctrcinalis and the C. revoluta.
They should be grown in strong loam and sharp sand, taking
care not to over-pot them, but rather to feed well when the
pots get filled with roots. With the best of treatment they
require a number of years to make a specimen ; but when they
have a stem of three feet or more, with a large crown of dark
green healthy leaves they are among the best of foliage
plants.

DASYLIRION.

A genus closely allied to Yucca, which it resembles in
character. The leaves of some of the species, however, are
long, narrow, and pendulous, and they form very graceful and
interesting specimens for exhibition. Two of the best species
with this habit are D. acrotrichum gracile, and D. glauco-
phyllum plumosum. They should be potted in loam, with
some peat, sand, and nodules of charcoal. A judicious appli-
cation of liquid manure secures the finest foliage, upon which
the merit of this class of plants entirely depends.

DRACAENA.

The best of the greenhouse Dracenas or Cordylines are
D. indivisa Veitchit, D. rubra, and D. stricta congesta. These

GREENHOUSE FOLIAGE PLANTS, 49

plants, when well grown and furnished with leaves to the base,
have a noble and graceful appearance, and are high-class
exhibition plants. They should be potted in a mixture of
rough turfy loam and peat, with leaf-mould and nodules of
charcoal. Plenty of water while growing, and a judicious
supply of liquid manure, produces the finest leaves, which
colour well with exposure to light and air.

EURYA.

All the species of this genus are evergreen shrubs, of which
E. latifolia variegata, a Japanese plant with particularly
beautiful leaves, is the finest foliage subject for exhibition.
It is of a compact habit, and can easily be grown and trained
into a handsome specimen. It succeeds well in equal parts of
good fibry loam and peat, and grows freely in a cool house.

FICUS.

Several species of this genus which thrive well in the
stove may also be included in greenhouse plants, as they suc-
ceed well under the treatment, except that they are all the
better of a little extra heat while making their growth. The
most ornamental and finest for exhibition of this class are
fF. Cooperit, F. dealbata, and F. elastica variegata. They grow
well in rich fibry light loam mixed with peat and sand, and
grown in rather small pots. Liquid manure and a free use
of the syringe increases the size and beauty of the foliage.

GREVILLEA.

This is a handsome genus of plants, chiefly from New
Holland. The best species with ornamental foliage are G.
elegans and G. robusta. They require to be grown in equal
parts of turfy loam and peat, with a sprinkling of bone-meal
and silver sand.

HOYA.

This is a genus of climbing plants with beautiful waxy
flowers. The species have all leaves more or less ornamental,

but the only plant with rich coloured foliage is H. carnosa
D

50 GREENHOUSE FOLIAGE PLANTS.

variegata. The most suitable soil to grow it well is a thin
loam and peat, with a good sprinkling of silver sand. It
should be trained on a pyramidal trellis with the leaves
freely exposed to the sun, so that the rich colour may be well
brought out.

HYDRANGEA.

Although this genus has many species and varieties with
splendid heads and panicles of bloom, it has only one variety
worthy of a place amongst exhibition foliage plants, viz,
HI. hortensis japonica variegata. The plant should be kept
moderately dry, and rested during winter; and, after being
started in the spring, it should be partially shaken out and
shifted into the same-sized pot, using rather poor loam, a
little leaf soil, and sand. It should be kept near to the glass
in the coolest part of the house, and supplied with plenty of
water during the time of growth. The flower-buds should
be pinched out as they appear, and the shoots regulated and
trained into position.

LOMATIA.

This is a genus of graceful-habited plants of considerable
beauty and value for exhibition. The best of the species are
L. elegantissima, L. ferruginea, and L. heterophylla. They
thrive in a compost of light loam, peat, and silver sand, and
require an abundance of water while making growth, during
which a few doses of liquid manure greatly improves the
foliage.

MUSA.

The only species of this valuable genus of tropical plants
which may be cultivated in a greenhouse for exhibition speci-
mens are MM. ensete and M. superba. These are two very
handsome foliage plants when they are well grown and
furnished with an ample head of their handsome leaves. They
require a strong rich loamy soil to grow in, with a little extra
heat and a copious supply of water when they are making
growth. Their large broad leaves, with stout bright crimson
mid-ribs, are very effective objects among the other denizens
of the greenhouse, and with a little careful management they
make grand specimen foliage plants.

GREENHOUSE FOLIAGE PLANTS, 51

PHORMIUM.

A genus of useful as well as highly ornamental foliage plants
belonging to New Zealand. The best variegated kinds are
P. Colensoi variegatum, P. tenax variegatum, and P. t. Veitchit.
They are free growers, and should be potted in strong rich
loam and sharp sand, and confined in comparatively small
pots, to bring out the variegation in its best shades.

YUCCA.

The variegated forms of this genus are very handsome
ornamental foliage plants, and should find a place in every
collection. The best of them for exhibition are Y. aloifolia
quadricolor, Y. a. variegata, and Y. filamentosa variegata. They
grow freely in rich sandy loam and leaf-mould, and succeed
very well in an ordinary greenhouse, although they will make
specimens quicker in a warmer house. When they have
attained a desirable size, they may remain in the same pots
for several years, if they receive plenty of water and are
regularly fed with liquid manure while they are making
growth. At all other times they thrive best when kept
rather dry, but not so much as to make them show any
signs of flagging ; and they should always be exposed to all
the light and air possible, to bring out the colours of the
leaves to perfection. They are easily propagated by notching
and mossing the tops, and they are also readily increased from
the side-shoots, which spring freely from the stem when the
top is cut off. These, with a heel to them, strike quickly in
sandy soil in a good bottom-heat.

JUDGING.

The chief points in judging foliage plants are: (1.) Healthy,
clean, and perfect leaves of a graceful form; (2.) the colour
should be fresh, clear, and well defined ; and (3.) the specimen
should be well grown, amply furnished with foliage, and the
outline handsome and pleasing.

5» ORCHIDS.
SECTION V.
ORCHIDS.

The Natural Order Orchidacez is a very extensive one, com-
prising many genera with numerous species and varieties,
representatives of which are met with in nearly every part of
the world. The flowers produced by some of the tropical
species are unsurpassed for brilliancy and beautiful colouring,
and the scientific interest possessed by others claims for them
a place in public favour. A fine display of orchids at an
exhibition is always a point of great attraction to the visitors
as well as to the connoisseur.

In selecting orchids for exhibition, special attention should
be given to those of a free-flowering nature, with large showy
flowers, rich in attractive colours, of a pleasing odour, and
having an imposing appearance when the plant is in full
bloom. In order to grow the various classes of orchids to
perfection, it is considered necessary to have three houses,
or three divisions in a range of houses, set apart for them,
and usually known as the ‘ EKast-Indian,” ‘ Mexican,” and
‘Peruvian’ house, respectively. These houses should be
constructed and arranged specially to meet the wants of
orchids requiring either tropical, temperate, or cool treatment.
The ventilation and heating must be fully equal to all possible
demands, and an abundant supply of soft clear water must
always be at command. The heating apparatus should be
capable of supplying a night temperature of 70° to the East-
Indian house, 60° to the Mexican house, and 50° to the
Peruvian house, in all conditions of weather. The houses
should be fitted in their interiors so that the plants can
always be grown near the glass, as they mostly require all
the light they can get on dull days, and the necessary shade
from bright sunshine can always be given with proper appli-
ances. When shade is required, it is best applied by move-
able scrim canvas, of the proper thickness to give the desired

ORCHIDS, 53

amount of shade, working on a roller with pulley and rope,
so that it may be run down or up at pleasure, as the state of
the weather renders necessary.

The cultural requirements of orchids demand careful study
and considerable experience to enable the grower to have them
in perfection at a given date for exhibition. With a know-
ledge of the conditions under which they thrive in their
natural habitats, and the length of time they require to make
and ripen their growth, and the period at which they have to
be started to have them in full flower by a certain date, an
exhibitor will be on the right road to success, especially as
many species are easily forced if late, and as easily retarded
if too early. The packing of orchids for transport to an
exhibition requires special attention, and the utmost care
should be taken to support every flower-stem and every flower
by proper stakes standing well over the spikes, which are
securely tied to them, using a layer of wadding round each
stake and flower-stem, and tying with soft flat raffia. The
flowers should also be kept in position, and safe from being
rubbed in transit, by pads of wadding placed around and
between them, and secured by a tie when necessary for safety.
When the specimens are set on the exhibition table, every
scrap of packing material—stakes, wadding, and ties—must
be removed, so that the specimens may appear as natural as
possible.

AERIDES.

A large genus of epiphytal orchids, the name of which is
derived from the fact that most of the species obtain their
nourishment from a moisture-laden atmosphere. Many of the
species are very handsome plants, freely producing beautiful
spikes of richly coloured flowers, and forming most useful
specimens to the exhibitor. Among the finest species for
exhibition are A. affine, A. Fieldingi, and A. Lobbii, all noted
for their long drooping spikes of delightfully fragrant flowers,
which, although not so showy as the flowers of some other
genera, have a very telling effect in a competitive collection,

Specimen plants are best grown in perforated pots, three

54 ORCHIDS.

parts filled with clean-washed potsherds and lumpy charcoal ;
using live sphagnum only for placing a few of the lower roots
in, leaving the majority of them to ramble free in the air.
The old material should be very carefully washed out from
the tangled roots in a tub of soft tepid water, and then the
plant set on a layer of moss pressed firm on the top of the
crocks, keeping the base of the stem well above the rim, and
working the sphagnum gently but firmly in among the roots.
Finish off with a neatly placed layer of live sphagnum, and
secure the shoots to stakes which have been fixed firmly among
the drainage as it was filled in. The material being used in
a moist state, no water will be required at the roots until the
plant begins to grow, but the atmosphere must be constantly
kept saturated with moisture till the plants have expanded
their flowers and finished growing, giving water copiously at
the roots while growth is taking place. Care must, however,
be taken not to allow water to fall on the flowers after they
begin to expand, as it is liable to cause irreparable mischief.
From the end of September to early in April a drier and
more airy atmosphere should be maintained, and less water
given at the roots, just sufficient to prevent any shrivelling
of the leaves. Asa rule, the months of March and April are
the best for shifting all epiphytal orchids, Aérides included ;
and as the latter are natives of tropical regions in the Old
World, they thrive best in the East-Indian house.

ANGRAICUM.

This is a beautiful genus of interesting epiphytal orchids,
the characteristic feature of which is the peculiar long tail-like
spur depending from the flower. The most esteemed for exhi-
bition are A. eburneum, A. Ellisid, and A. sesquipedale. These
are all natives of Madagascar, and consequently require to be
grown in the tropical or East-Indian house, and the treat-
ment described for Aérides suits them admirably. In their
seasons they are highly effective specimens for exhibition,
and the curious long drooping “tails” of the beautiful flowers
are always an object of great attraction to the public.

ORCHIDS. oo

CALANTHE.

A useful genus of terrestrial orchids, comprising some very
handsome species, which in their respective seasons make a
fine display, and are great favourites with the public. The
winter-flowering C. Vevtehi/ and C. vestita make very effec-
tive specimens for exhibition at that dull period of the year;
and C. Masuea and C. veratrifolia are among the best of the
summer-flowering species. Naturally, they are slow in form-
ing exhibition specimens, and are usually “made up” by
placing together the required number of plants in a large pot
or tub—a practice not to be commended, although with many
species of orchids it may be difficult to detect, and in the case
of deciduous species, such as Calanthes, Pleiones, and the
like, it may be the least of two defects, and as such allowed
to pass. Calanthes are easily cultivated, and should be grown
in a rich mixture of loam and leaf-mould, potted firmly in
well-drained pots of the ordinary type, keeping the bulbs about
level with the rim of the pot. They grow best in the Indian
house, and while growth is taking place they should receive
copious supplies of water at the root, with a supply of weak
liquid manure once or twice a week when the pots get full of
roots. The deciduous kinds require to be kept dry after they
have flowered till they are thoroughly rested, and the best
time to re-pot and start them is just when they naturally begin
to show signs of growth in spring.

CATTLEYA.

Perhaps no genus of orchids stands so high in popular favour
at the present day as that of Cattleya. Most of the species
are of easy culture, and under proper treatment soon grow
into specimens suitable for exhibition. The gorgeous display
of flowers produced by many of the choicest kinds renders
them indispensable to the exhibitor, and the magnificence of
the blooms always attracts crowds of admirers amongst the
visitors to a flower-show. Among the finest for exhibition are
C. Dowiana, C. Exoniensis, C. Lawrenceana, C. Mendeliti, C.

56 ORCHIDS.

Mossie, and C. Warneri. These all thrive best when grown
in pots or baskets half-filled with clean-washed crocks, over
which is placed a layer of moss, and the remainder filled with
a mixture of fibry peat and pieces of charcoal, freely sprinkled
with silver sand. Keep the plant high over the rim of the
pot, and finish off the surface with a neat layer of live sphag-
num. They require an abundant supply of water while grow-
ing, and a moist atmosphere; but they should be kept in a
drier state after the growth is matured, as they grow more freely
and flower better after they have enjoyed a long period of rest.
Being chiefly natives of Brazil and the adjacent countries,
they thrive best in a temperature between that of. the Indian
and Mexican houses, or what is known as the “ Brazilian” or
Cattleya house; but they are very accommodating so long as
they receive plenty of heat and moisture while making their
growth, and, when subjected to a low temperature, careful
attention is paid to their wants, and especially not to over-
water them.

CAELOGYNE.

A genus of very showy and useful epiphytal orchids, chiefly
natives of the moister parts of the East Indies, and thriving
well under the same treatment as Cattleyas. The finest for
exhibition are C. asperata, C. cristata, and C. Massangeana.
They delight in abundance of moisture while growing, and
should be deluged with clear soft water overhead from the rose
of a watering-pot in the growing season. Being evergreens,
they should never be allowed, even in the resting season, to be-
come quite dry at the root. Generally they enjoy plenty of heat
when making growth, but C. cristata is an exception, as it
makes the finest growth in a temperate house, and expands its
flowers to the greatest perfection in a tropical heat. As soon
as the plants are in full bloom, it and most of the Celogynes
stand well and last longest in a cool temperature. The same
compost as for the Cattleyas suits well, and a sprinkling
of fish-manure, or any other stimulant of the same nature,
over the surface of the soil once a-week while the plants are
growing is very beneficial.

ORCHIDS. 57

CYMBIDIUM.

A few species of this genus form very handsome and
effective specimens for exhibition, especially C. eburneum and
C. Lowiunum, When these are set up in their best condition,
they are exceedingly telling plants in a collection. They
thrive best in roomy well-drained pots, in a compost of rough
fibry peat, loam, sphagnum, and silver sand. Abundance of
water and a weekly application of clear liquid manure suits
them well. They grow to perfection in the Cattleya house.
They should be thoroughly rested in a cool temperature, but
the roots must never be allowed to become dust-dry.

CYPRIPEDIUM.

This is a very beautiful and interesting genus of terrestrial
orchids, representatives of which are found in all climates,
from Tropical to almost Arctic regions, and furnish the exhi-
bitor with some of the most valued specimens. Among the
finest of the tropical species for exhibition are the following :—
C. caudatum, C. Harristanum, C. Lawrenceanum, C. Sedenii,
C. Stonet, and C. superbiens. They are easily cultivated, and
delight in a good compost of turfy loam, peat, and silver sand,
with a little chopped sphagnum and nodules of charcoal. The
plant should be potted rather firmly, and kept about level
with the rim of the pot, finishing off the surface with a fine
layer of live sphagnum. Plenty of heat and moisture should
be given while the plants are growing, and less water applied
when they are resting ; but they must not be allowed to get
quite dry at the root at any season. An intermediate house
suits them well during the resting period.

DENDROBIUM.

This is an extensive genus of orchids, comprising many
species and varieties, most of which are exceedingly floriferous ;
and although the flowers are not so large as those of many
other genera, yet their numbers make up for what they lack
in size. The colours of some of them are dense, bright, and
well marked, and tinged with various shades of red, white,

58 ORCHIDS.

yellow, and purple. Among the best for exhibition are
D. densiflorum, D, Devonianum, D. Falconeri, D. fimbriatum
oculatum, D. formosum, D. nobile, D. thyrsiflorum, and D.
Wardianum. The three periods of development peculiar to
orchids is well defined in this genus: first, the splendid display
of flowers ; second, rampant growths; and finally, gradual in-
action. During the latter period, the process of storing, con-
solidating, and preparing for the future display is steadily
proceeding, and the object of the cultivator should be to supply
the conditions marked by Nature, and assist the maturation
of the plant as far as possible. They should be potted in the
same manner and with the same material as is recommended
for Cattleya, but a little more brown peat may be used with
advantage. When they are in active growth, plenty of clear
water and a little liquid manure should be given; and the
plants syringed twice a day. When growth is finished, they
should be removed to a cool house with a night temperature
of 50°, a dry atmosphere, and plenty of light, the amount of
water being gradually reduced, until the shoots are thoroughly
matured, after which less water is required.

EPIDENDRUM.

This extensive genus contains many species of little value
to the exhibitor. There are some, however, of considerable
merit on account of their compact habit and the beauty and
durability of their flowers, which entitle them to be classed
among exhibition plants. Three of the best are E. evectum,
£. paniculatum, and £. vitellinum majus. The first two have
rather tall stems, while the last is a low, compact-growing
species, sending up from the top of the bulbs its fine showy
flowers, which stand for months when placed in a cool shady
place. Their culture is similar to that recommended for
Cattleya, except that an intermediate temperature suits them
best.

LALIA.

A genus of orchids comprising several species of a high
standard as exhibition plants, such as LD. anceps, L. elegans,

ORCHIDS. 59

and L. purpurata, and their splendid varieties. They are
natives of the warmer parts of America, from Mexico to Brazil,
and require the same treatment as the Cattleya, to which
genus they are closely allied. They thrive best in rough
fibry peat and sphagnum, mixed with crocks and bits of char-
coal, filling the pot about half full of drainage, and keeping
the plant high above the rim. They require abundance of
water with a little liquid manure during the growing period,
and a fair supply of water at all times.

LYCASTE.

Some of the species and varieties of this genus are of great
value, not only to the exhibitor, but also from a commercial
point of view. They have flowers of much beauty and sub-
stance, and the only point against them is that they do not
produce so many blooms, nor show them so well, as many
others of less importance. Among the best are L. candida,
L. gigantea, and L. Shinnert. They are easily cultivated, pro-
vided due attention is paid to watering, which should not
be altogether withheld when resting ; but a copious supply
must be given during the time of growth. They thrive best
in peat with a few pieces of old fern roots chopped down and
mixed with it. The Mexican house suits them well.

MASDEVALLIA.

An extensive, interesting, and useful genus of orchids from
the high mountainous regions of Central America, extending
from Mexico to Peru. There are numerous species and
varieties, some of which have large, richly coloured flowers,
rendering them most valuable as exhibition specimens, while
others have curiously marked and grotesquely shaped flowers,
of great interest to the botanist and to the collector of rare
and curious plants, Those with the largest flowers and
bright showy colours are the best for exhibition, such as
M. Harryana, M. ignea, M. Lindent, M. Schlimii, M. tova-
rensis, and M. Veitchiana, with their varieties. Under good
management the plants will flower twice, and some of them

60 ORCHIDS.

thrice during a season, and are very useful for both exhibition
and decoration. The cool house is the proper place in which
to grow them in, and with due attention to their wants they
are very amenable to good culture. A house with a north
aspect suits them admirably, as they delight in a cool moist
atmosphere, and shaded from bright sun. They require ample
drainage, and thrive best in turfy loam, silver sand, and sphag-
num, with plenty of water given to the roots while the plants
are growing.
MAXILLARIA.

This is a genus of orchids mostly natives of South America.
They very much resemble Lycaste in their flowers and habit
growth, but have the disadvantage as exhibition plants of
concealing their blooms among their leaves; nevertheless,
some of the species are of considerable merit on account of the
beauty and fragrance of their flowers, and should be in every
collection. Some of the best for exhibition are M. grandiflora,
MU. Harrison’, and M. venusta. They should be potted in the
same material as Lycaste, and kept in the cool house, and, like
most orchids, they require plenty of water and a moist atmos-
phere while growing—receiving, when resting, just enough
water to keep the bulbs plump.

MILTONIA.

This is another South American genus, most of the species
growing naturally in the moist warm parts of Brazil. They
are low-growing, compact, evergreen plants, and as they throw
up one or two flowers from their small but numerous bulbs,
there are generally plenty of flowers on a specimen to produce
a fine display. Some of the best for exhibition are MZ. candida,
M. spectabilis, and M. vewillaria. They should be potted in
brown peat and moss, with plenty of charcoal and crocks, and
treated afterwards similar to Cattleyas.

ODONTOGLOSSUM.

This is one of the most beautiful and deservedly popular
genera of the whole family, and is of the easiest culture ; also,

ORCHIDS. 61

when the plants are in flower, they can be used for decorative
purposes with the smallest risk of damage. ‘The graceful
spikes of bloom when cut can scarcely be equalled for all kinds
of floral decorations, and the variety of form, colour, and
marking is not excelled by any other genus. They are natives
of various parts of Central America, and are often found grow-
ing at high and cool altitudes. Many of them make handsome
exhibition specimens when large and well flowered. Some of
the best, including their choicest varieties, are O. cirrhosum,
O. erispum, O. grande, O. Insleay?, O. nebulosum, O. Phale-
nopsis, and O, Pescatorei. They thrive best in a compost of
brown fibry peat with a little sphagnum and charcoal, and the
whole neatly covered over with live sphagnum kept fresh and
moist, With the exception of a few species, a cool house is
most suitable for their cultivation, and they require plenty of
water at all seasons, as they do not go to rest even in winter.
The species requiring a higher temperature than what is
generally given, such as Phalenopsis, should be gradually
dried off during winter, and given a plentiful supply of water
after they show the flower-spikes and while growing. They
should be closely shaded from strong sun, and a little weak
liquid manure from soot and sheep-droppings is a good stimu-
lant when in active growth.

ONCIDIUM.

This is a most extensive and handsome genus, many of the
species producing long, branching, and numerously flowered
spikes, which make them very striking and useful as exhi-
bition plants. Some of the best, inclusive of their choice
varieties, are O. ampliatum, O. crispum, O. macranthum, O.
splendidum, O. tigrinum, and O. varicosum. They inhabit the
tropical parts of America, including Brazil, Mexico, and the
West Indies. Many of the species thrive best in baskets or
on blocks of wood, but the stronger growing kinds do best in
pots. The weaker growing should have the conditions of pot
culture made as near am imitation as possible of a basket.
They grow well in perforated pots, in a compost consisting of

62 ORCHIDS.

fibry peat, sphagnum, and pieces of the roots of the common
bracken chopped small. The kinds above mentioned should
all be grown in the Cattleya house, receiving plenty of mois-
ture, which should be moderated when the plants are at rest.

PHAIUS.

This is one of the terrestrial genera of orchids, of tall slender
growth. ‘The species are spread over a wide range of country,
being found in Asia, India, and Australia. They are noble-
looking plants, with long plicate leaves and tall spikes of
beautiful flowers. Two of the best for exhibition are P.
grandifolius and P. Wallichit. In common with all the ter-
restrial class of orchids, they require a substantial compost to
grow them well, consisting of three parts turfy loam, from
which the small particles have been sifted, and one part of
sharp sand and well-decayed manure. The heat of the East-
Indian house, with plenty of water, suits well while they are
growing, but they should be removed to a cooler house and
given very little water when resting. They are greatly bene-
fited by a liberal supply of weak liquid manure when they are
in active growth.

PHALANOPSIS.

A splendid genus of orchids, which, however, require time
and good management to produce first-rate specimens ; indeed,
they are among the most difficult to grow satisfactorily of
all the Orchid family. The leaves of some of the species are
of great substance, large, and prettily spotted, but they are
rather liable to rot at the base. For exhibition, the best
are P. amabtls, P. grandiflora, and P. Schilleriana. They are
natives of the warmest parts of India and the Malay Archi-
pelago, and are very sensitive to cold and damp during the
resting season. The warmest end of the Indian house is best
suited for their growth, where a moist atmosphere should be
provided while the plants are growing, but kept moderately
dry when they are resting. They should be very carefully
potted, using the best fibry peat and sphagnum, with a good

ORCHIDS. 63

sprinkling of charcoal and potsherds, keeping the roots well
above the rim of the pot, and care taken to shade them from
bright sunshine.

SACCOLABIUM.

A very fine genus of epiphytal orchids from India and the
Malay Archipelago, and when well grown they furnish excel-
lent exhibition specimens. The best for this purpose are
S. ampullaceum, S. Blumei majus, and S. violaceum. They are
very similar to Aérides in their habits, and require the same
treatment in their cultivation. They should be grown near
the glass, so as to receive all the light possible, and only be
shaded slightly when they are growing.

SOBRALIA.

This is a genus of tall slender-growing orchids, with large
showy flowers produced on the top of the stem. The flowers
are rather short-lived, and fade in a few days, but they succeed
each other so rapidly that there are always sufficient on a large
specimen to make a fine display. The best for an exhibition
specimen is S. macrantha. It thrives in the Mexican house,
and should be potted in a mixture of rough peat, chopped
sphagnum, potsherds, and charcoal. It requires a good supply
of water, with a little weak liquid manure while growing, and
to be kept moderately dry when at rest.

STANHOPEA.

This is a very peculiar genus of orchids from Tropical
America, with thick, waxy, grotesque-formed, variously col-
oured flowers. Instead of the flower-scape shooting upwards,
it takes the opposite direction, which renders the plants
unsuitable for pot culture. They do best grown in baskets,
but they can be grown in pots with fair success if the
pseudo-bulbs are raised well above the rim, and a strict
watch kept on the scapes as they begin to push, so as to
guide them to the outside. Some of the best for exhibition
are S. grandiflora, S. insignis, S. Martiana, and S. tigrina.

64 ORCHIDS.

They thrive well in sphagnum alone, but a little fibrous peat
amongst it is beneficial to their growth. The Hast-Indian
house suits them well, and they should receive plenty of
water while growing, with a long season of rest, during
which time they should not be over-watered.

TRICHOPILA.

This is a pretty genus of dwarf evergreen orchids, natives
of Central America. They have curiously formed flowers,
which proceed from the rhizome at the base of the bulb, some-
times drooping over the edge of the pot. They are very showy,
and should be tied up to thin stakes, and well exposed. Some
of the best for exhibition are 7. crispa, T. fragrans, and T.
suavis. They require to be potted among brown peat with a
little sphagnum and charcoal, and the bulbs should be well
elevated above the pot, so that the scapes may extend freely.
They should be kept near the glass in the Mexican house, and
sparingly watered at all times.

VANDA,

An exceedingly handsome and free-flowering genus of orchids,
from the same regions in the tropics as Aérides and Saccola-
bium, and thriving well under similar treatment in the Indian
house, They are admirably adapted for exhibition, and take
a high place in competition. A few of the best of them are
V. Batemanii, V. insignis, V. suavis, and V. tricolor, the three
latter comprising each several very beautiful varieties, which
are popular among cultivators of orchids. ‘Vandas luxuriate
in a high and moist temperature while they are growing, with
a copious supply of water at the roots, and an occasional appli-
cation of clear liquid manure, the air being kept saturated by
a free use of the syringe and damping of the paths and stages.
As the growth reaches maturity the plants should be kept
rather drier, and receive all the light and air possible, while
at the same time the high temperature of the house is main-
tained, and no more shading applied than will prevent scorch-
ing of the foliage. The plants thrive best when grown in

ORCHIDS. 65

baskets, which should be nearly filled with potsherds and
rough lumps of charcoal, with a laver of sphagnum laid over
them, on which the roots are placed, and filling in among
them a mixture of chopped sphagnum, potsherds, sandstone,
and charcoal. The material should be used more or less rough
according to the size of the plant and capacity of the basket,
rounding it well up over the lip of the basket, and finishing
off with a neatly placed layer of live sphagnum.

ZYGOPETALUM.

A genus of handsome epiphytal orchids from Tropical Ame-
yica. Most of the species are tall-growing plants, sending up
terminal scapes bearing racemes of showy flowers. They bloom
during the winter, which makes them of value as decorative
plants, although not so useful for exhibition, Their bloom-
ing period can, however, be slightly retarded by keeping the
plants in the cool end of the Cattleya house, and by introduc-
ing them to a cool house when in bloom they will stand fresh for
months. Some of the best species are Z. Mackayt, Z. maxillare,
and Z. rostratum. They should be grown in well-drained pots,
among fibrous peat and pieces of charcoal, which should be
covered over with live sphagnum. They should have plenty of
water when growing. but be kept moderately dry when resting.

JUDGING.

The chief points of merit in exhibition orchids are: (1.) The
abundance and quality of the flowers, which should be fully
developed, fresh, large of their kind, of good substance, pure
and bright in colour, and the markings clearly defined ; and
(2.) the size and vigour of the plant, a bona fide specimen
formed of a single plant taking precedence of a “specimen”
made up of several plants, all other points being equal.
In orchids, however, so much depends on the particular
variety, and the conditions under which it is exhibited, that
the knowledge and experience of the judge can alone decide

their relative merits,
E

66 TERNS.

SECTION VI
FERNS.

This is the most graceful section of cultivated plants, and
always forms a highly interesting class at horticultural exhi-
bitions, never failing to attract the attention and excite the
admiration of all classes of the people. It comprises numerous
genera and a multitude of species and varieties of lovely aspect,
some of which are to be found in every habitable part of the
world, from the stately wide-spreading tree-fern of the tropics
to the lowly spleenwort of the northern Highland glen. Asa
rule, they are shade-loving plants, and delight to rear their
fragile forms under the protection of taller and more robust
subjects. There they are safe from the blast and the scorching
rays of the sun, and enjoy the requisite calm and moisture to
build up their delicate structure without interruption.

Following the usual practice at flower-shows, we will divide
this Section into five Sub-Sections, namely :

(1.) Exotic Ferns.

(2.) Hardy or British Ferns.

(3.) Filmy Ferns.

(4.) Tree-Ferns.

(5.) Selaginellas.

1. EXOTIC FERNS.

Among the best for exhibition of the numerous, hand-
some, graceful, and useful ferns in this Sub-Section are the
following :—

ADIANTUM.

This is one of the best known and probably the most exten-
sively grown genus of the whole family. Among the best for
exhibition are A. cardiochlena, A. cuneatum, A. Farleyense,
A. Flemingit, A. formosum, A. gractllimum, A. Sanctcee Catha-
rine, and A, tenerum. These are all strong growers, and

FERNS. 67
form excellent specimens when well managed. They thrive
best in a shady place in the stove, with a strong heat and
moist atmosphere. They should Le grown in loam and sand,
with some charcoal and pieces of brick broken small. They
should receive plenty of water while growing, with weak
liquid manure once a week when the pots are full of roots.
When cutting out the old fronds in spring, some of the
freshest should be left to support the young ones, and to
assist in promoting stronger growth.

ASPLENIUM,.

This is one of the most interesting genera of ferns, com-
prising a host of species and varieties, which are spread over
most of the habitable globe. Among so many it is not easy
to select the best, but the following suit admirably for exhi-
bition :—A. Belangerii, A. dimorphum, A. formosum, A. feru-
laceum, and A. ririparum. Both the stove and greenhouse
species thrive well in a compost of loam and peat in equal
parts, with a liberal addition of silver sand. When the plants
have attained to specimen size, they should not be potted
every year, but top-dressed with rich mould, and liberally fed
with weak liquid manure when they are in active growth,
This practice should commend itself to all growers of ferns
for exhibition, because the plant in all its parts must be
grown to the fullest possible dimensions, which cannot be
done if the roots are starved; and, with the exception of one
or two genera, the whole family are much benefited by the
judicious application of liquid manure while they are growing.

BLECHNUM.

The species of this genus are found, although in limited
numbers, in all parts of the world. They naturally grow
about the sides of streams and in crevices of rocks, where
they get plenty of shade and moisture. The length of their
fronds range from six inches to as many feet, and are generally
of graceful shape. Among the best for exhibition are LZ.

68 FERNS,

corcovadense, B. lanceolatum, and B. longifolium gracile. The
first two thrive best in the cool end of the stove, while the
last should be grown in the greenhouse. They should be
grown in a mixture of peat, loam, and sandstone.

DAVALLIA.

All the species and varieties of this useful genus form
beautiful specimens, and are of great service to the exhibitor.
Among the finest for that purpose are D. canartensis, D.
elegans, D. Fijlensis plumosa, D. hirta cristata, D. Mooreana,
and D. pysidata. The stove kinds require a strong moist
heat and a plentiful supply of water at the roots, and should
be grown in baskets or well-drained pans, using a compost of
fibrous peat and sharp sand, with a large proportion of char-
coal and sandstone, to allow the water to pass freely away.
The greenhouse kinds should be grown among firmer material,
with less charcoal in it, and receive less water at the roots.

GLEICHENTA.

This is a specially attractive race of ferns, and indispens-
able to the exhibitor. Among the best for exhibition are
G. eircinata glauca, G. diearpa longipinnata, G. dichotoma,
G, flabellata, G. Mendelti, and G. rupestris. They all require
greenhouse treatment, and should be grown in well-drained
pans or shallow tubs, using a compost of fibry peat and silver
sand with a little charcoal. They grow naturally on the banks
of streams where the water overflows their roots at times,
thus indicating that they require a plentiful supply of mois-
ture. They require to be firmly potted, leaving a hard even
surface for the wiry creeping stems to run upon. This genus
of beautiful ferns have rather delicate and easily injured roots,
and liquid manure or manure in any form should not be given
to them. They can be increased by division or by layering the
stems in small pots.

FERNS. 69

GYMNOGRAMMA.

This genus includes the most beautiful of the “ golden”
and ‘silver’ ferns. They stand in the front rank of exhibi-
tion ferns, and no collection is complete without them. Some
of the best “golden” ferns are G. chrysophylla and its
varieties, Laucheana and Parsonsii (crested); and of the
“silver,” G. peruriana argyrophylla, G. tartarea, and G. Wet-
tenhalliana (crested). They all belong to the stove section,
and require a strong moist heat for the development of
their fronds. With good management they soon grow into
large specimens, and abundantly compensate for the attention
given them. They thrive best when potted in a compost of
sandy loam and peat, with some bits of charcoal. They should
be well supplied with water at the roots during the growing
season, and a little liquid manure once a week ; but all syring-
ing must be dispensed with, as it washes off the powdery
“gold” and “ silver” from the fronds, and spoils the plant for
exhibition.

LASTREA.

This is a very extensive genus, coutaining many species and
varieties, which, with few exceptions, belong to temperate
climes, and thrive well in the greenhouse. Some of the best
for exhibition are ZL. aristata variegata, L. elegans, L. lepida,
L. Richardsti multifida, and L. tenericaulis cristata. These are
all of easy culture, and grow freely in equal parts of turfy
loam and peat, with a sprinkling of silver sand.

LOMARIA.

«A genus of useful ferns, containing several species of merit
as exhibition plants; and although some of them inhabit the
warmest parts of both hemispheres, yet very few require stove-
heat. A few of the best are ZL. discolor, L. falcata, L. gibba,
and L. Patersonti elongata, all of which thrive well in the
greenhouse. They grow well in sandy loam and peat, and are
all the better to be started and grown for a time in a warm
moist atmosphere, taking care to gradually inure them to the
temperature of the greenhouse.

70 FERNS.

LYGODIUM.

A genus of climbing ferns which grow rapidly, and can be
trained into any form. Two excellent species are L. palma-
tum and L. scandens: The first is a native of North America,
and grows well in a greenhouse ; the last belongs to the East
Indies, and requires to be grown in the cool end of the stove.
Light loam, leaf-mould, and silver sand suits them admirably,
and weak liquid manure given once a week when the soil is
full of roots is beneficial. The long stems are best shown
when trained in a spiral manner round a balloon wire trellis,
being careful not to break off the points of the shoots till the
top is reached. Large specimens trained in this fashion, with
strong healthy fronds, are among the finest exhibition ferns.

NEPHRODIUM.

A very numerous and useful genus of ferns, natives of many
parts of the world, some of which form handsome specimens
for exhibition. A few of the best are NV. cuspidatum, N. del-
toideum, N. molle corymbiferum, N. patens cristata, and N. vil-
losum. These thrive well in an intermediate temperature, and
should be grown in fibry loam, leaf-mould, and sand, with plenty
of moisture at the roots, and a little liquid manure once a week
in the growing season.

NEPHROLEPIS.

This is a genus of graceful and ornamental ferns, well
adapted for exhibition. The species are all stove plants, but
a few thrive well in a warm greenhouse. Some of the best are
N. cordata, N. davallioides furcans, N. pectinata, and N. pluma.
They grow well and form fine specimens with the same treat-
ment as recommended for Lomaria.

NOTHOCHLENA.

A beautiful and interesting genus of stove ferns, having the
same characteristics as the gold and silver Gymnogrammas,
and thrive well under the same treatment. Some of the best
for exhibition are N. chrysophylla, N. lanuginosa, N. nivea,
N. sinuata, and N. trichomanotdes.

FERNS. ral

OSMUNDA.

A genus of large handsome ferns, mostly natives of North
America, Asia, and Japan, but one is the well-known Royal
Fern, O. regalis, of the British Isles. They possess fronds
varying in length from one to three feet or more, and when well
cultivated form fine specimens for exhibition. Three of the
best are O. cinnamomea, O. javanica, and O. palustris. They are
all moderately hardy, and thrive remarkably well in the green-
house. The ordinary fern soil suits them, and as they grow
naturally in damp marshy situations, they should be kept
moist even when dormant.

PLATYCERIUM.

A remarkably distinct genus of ferns, containing a few
species which, when well grown, possess a unique and hand-
some appearance, and form grand specimens for exhibition.
Some of the best are P. alcicorne majus, P. grande, and P.
Hill’. These are all tropical species, and require similar
treatment to other stove ferns, except that rough material
should be used in potting and the plants set high in the pot,
which should be well drained. They are better to be kept
rather dry at the root during winter.

POLYPODIUM.

This is a very extensive genus, widely spread throughout the
world, giving a choice of hardy, medium, and tender species.
The following are some of the best exhibition kinds:—P. appen-
diculatum, P. Krameri, P. loriceum, and P. nigrescens, The
first and last require stove treatment, the other two a green-
house temperature. If well cultivated under ordinary con-
ditions, they readily form good exhibition specimens.

POLYSTICHUM.

A very ornamental genus of rather hardy ferns, except a
few of the species which require stove heat. The following
three are greenhouse species, and suitable for exhibition :—

72 FERNS.

P. flecum, P. mucronatum, and P. setosum. They are very
easily cultivated, and if started in a little heat in spring, make
excellent exhibition specimens during the summer.

PTERIS.

This is an ornamental and very useful genus, of the easiest
culture. Among the best species for exhibition are P. argyrea,
P. cretica albo-lineata, P. serrulata cristata, and P. tricolor.
They may either be grown in the stove or greenhouse, but
make the finest plants in a little heat when proper care is
taken to keep them clean and free from scale, from which they
are liable to suffer if neglected. Sandy loam and peat with a
little maltster’s ‘‘cummings” grows them well. This material
is the refuse from malt-kilns, and when mixed with soil for
ferns and soft-wooded plants it has a very beneficial effect
upon them.

WOODWARDIA.

The finest species of this genus is the beautiful W. radicans
cristata, which makes a fine shapely plant when grown in a
warm greenhouse. It grows well in a suspended basket, and
thrives best in equal parts sandy loam and fibry peat.

2, BRITISH FERNS.

This Sub-Section includes all ferns indigenous to the British
Isles. They should be exhibited in two classes, viz. large
and dwarf specimens, the latter including all kinds with
fronds less than one foot in height from the surface of the pot.

British ferns generally require the same cultural treatment,
and the few exceptions to the rule will be mentioned under
their own genus. They should be grown in moderate-sized
pots, well drained; and they thrive well in peat, loam, and
sand, varying the proportions of these according to the delicate
nature or robust habit of the species. They grow well in the
open air, but to produce them in the best condition for exhi-
bition, they should be grown in a glass-house or pit with a
north aspect. They require plenty water at the roots, and

7]

FERNS. Fi

y

a moist atmosphere during growth; but they should be kept
moderately dry during winter, and protected from extreme
frost, if possible, without using artificial heat. A long period
of undisturbed rest is a sure preliminary to a vigorous start
and luxuriant growth.

ADIANTUM (Matdenhair).

The beautiful +: Maidenhair fern,’ 4. capillus-Veneris, is
the only British species of this genus. The fronds grow from
8 to 12 inches in length, and when it is started and grown
for a time in a warm moist place, it forms a splendid dwarf
exhibition specimen.

ALLOSORUS (Parsley Fern).

A very pretty little fern is A. erispus, the only species of
the genus indigenous to Britain. It grows naturally in rocky
places on mountain-sides, well out of the reach of water,
which it seems to avoid; and when cultivated in a pot it
should be well drained, and the plant never watered overhead,
nor kept in an atmosphere over-charged with moisture. It
makes a first-rate dwarf exhibition specimen when in its best
condition.

ASPLENIUM (Spleeniort).

There are several species of this genus natives of the British
Isles, some of which are rare, while others are quite common.
Some of the best for pot culture and exhibition are A. Adiantum-
nigrum, A. lanceolatum, A. martnum, A. Trichomanes cristata,
and A. viride. These are all dwarf ferns, but with good treat-

ment some of them will attain dimensions to qualify them for
the large specimen class.

ATHYRIUM (Lady Fern).

A. Filic-femina is the only species of this genus which is a
native of Britain. It is a very common plant in every part
of the United Kingdom, generally growing in damp sheltered
situations, where it often attains a height of five feet or more,

74 FERNS.

and forms one of the noblest specimens of British ferns. Some
of the best varieties of itare A. F.-f. Frizellie, A. F.-f. latifolia,
A. F.-f. multifidum, and A. F.-f. Victorie.

BLECHNUM (Hard Fern).

The hardy erect-habited B. spicant is the only British
species of this genus, and is found on heaths and in woods
all over the country. Three of the most suitable varieties for
exhibition are B. s. multifidum, B. s. ramosum, and B. s. triner-

vum. They are all dwarf ferns, and make very pretty plants
when well grown.

CETERACH (Scale Fern).

The somewhat rare British fern C. oficinarum is found
generally in rocky places and on old ruins. It is rather
difficult to cultivate, and should be grown in well-drained pots
in a mixture of fibrous loam, pieces of sandstone, charcoal,
and old mortar, and set in a shady corner of the house, where
it should be carefully watered and the crown kept thoroughly
dry. It is one of the smallest of ferns, but its peculiar appear-
ance makes it very interesting and unique as an exhibition
specimen.

LASTREA (Buckler Fern).

This genus contains several British species, with numerous
varieties, which are widely scattered over the country. Among
the best for large specimens are L. cristata, L. dilatata lepi-
dota, L. Filiv-mas cristata, and L. spinulosa. These are all
easily grown, and produce fronds varying from two to five feet
in length—the crested varieties in particular forming grand
specimens.

OSMUNDA (Royal Fern).

This genus has one native species only, from which has been
obtained a handsome crested variety. O. regalis and O. regalis
cristata are two of the finest for exhibition among British
ferns. The former attains to a height of four or five feet,
and when well furnished has few rivals, while the latter fills
a prominent place in the most choice collections.

FERNS.

~r
ct

POLYPODIUM (Polyporty).

This genus includes the favourite Beech, P. Pheyupteris,
and Oak, P. Dryopteris, Ferns, beside the numerous beautiful
varieties of the common Polypody, which are among the best
for pot culture. They are all excellent for exhibition, the
Beech and Oak Ferns making fine dwarf specimens, while the
Polypody, with good treatment, grows to a fair size as a
specimen.

POLYSTICHUM (Shleld Fern).
This is one of the larger-growing genera of British ferns,
the species and varieties of which are very useful and orna-
mental, and form splendid specimens for exhibition. Some

of the best are P. aculeatum proliferum, P. angulare cristatum,
P. a. plumosum, and P. a. proliferum.

SCOLOPENDRIUM (Hart’s-tongue Fern).

There is only one British species of this genus, but there is a
great choice of varieties. They are mostly all pretty evergreens
and very easily cultivated. Some of the best for exhibition are
S. vulgare ecrispum, S. v. eristatum, and S. rv. ramosum majus.
They form nice dwarf exhibition plants, and contrast well with
others.

Woopsta (The Woodsta).

These are among the smallest and most interesting of British
ferns, of which there are only two species, W. hyperborea and
WV. tlvensis. They grow naturally on rocky mountains, but are
amenable to pot culture, and form beautiful dwarf specimens
for exhibition. The pots should be extra well drained and
the soil never allowed to become dry.

3, FILMY FERNS.

With the exception of Todea, which assumes a considerable
size, the genera included in this Sub-Section are of a lowly
and unassuming growth, but the peculiarly delicate, almost
transparent, nature of their fronds, and their extremely neat

76 FERNS.

and graceful appearance, render them specially attractive and
interesting in an exhibition, at which they ought to be more
often seen. The best known genera, Hymenophyllum, Todea,
and Trichomanes, are all very similar in their nature and
habits, and thrive well with the same treatment. Where
possible, a small house with a north aspect should be specially
devoted to them, and where that cannot be afforded, they
should be grown in cases or frames inside of other houses ;
and as they are shade-loving plants, the case may be placed
anywhere under the shade of other plants, so that a moderate
sbare of light and air reaches it. A close, moist, moderately
cool atmosphere, kept closely shaded from sunshine, suits them
well; and most of them thrive in well-drained pots, in a com-
post of fibry peat, chopped sphagnum, and silver sand, freely
mixed with chips of sandstone and charcoal, used more or less
rough according to the size and nature of the plants. The
air must be kept saturated with moisture by frequent sprink-
lings with tepid water; and the drainage must be perfect to
allow it to escape, as they will not bear stagnation at the roots.
Some of the creeping species thrive best on blocks of wood or
pieces of tree-fern stems, with a little sphagnum tied on, to
retain moisture for the roots as they run over the surface of
the block.

HYMENOPHYLLUM.

The numerous members of this genus are mostly natives of
tropical regions, but a few beautiful species are found in New
Zealand. The best for exhibition are H. ciliatum, H. fleacuosum,
H. hirsutum, and H. scabrum. H. Tunbridgense and H. Wilsonti,
which are natives of Britain, are occasionally exhibited in col-
lections of hardy ferns. They ave generally found in sheltered
crevices of rocks with the water from above trickling down
among their roots, and keeping the air heavily laden with
moisture, giving an idea of what to aim at in growing them
to perfection.

TODEA.

This is by far the most effective genus for exhibition among
the filmy ferns. Many of the species form elegant plants,

FERNS. aE

but require many years to make a large specimen. Some
of the best are 7. Frasert, T. pellucida, T. plumosa, and 7.
superba. They develop much larger fronds when placed in a
mild heat during the growing season, when the conditions as
to moisture and shade are maintained.

TRICHOMANES.

A highly interesting genus of filmy ferns, including a
large number of beautiful species with clear membranous
fronds, varying in length from an inch to about a foot. The
great majority of them are natives of tropical countries, but
one lovely species, the well-known Killarney Fern, 7. rad ican,
is a native of Britain. They are rather easier to cultivate
than the other two genera, but they thrive well under the
same general treatment. Trichomanes grow best in shallow
pans, with the compost raised well above the rim. <A little
turfy loam and plenty of lumps of sandstone added to the
compost is beneficial Beside 7. radicans, T. angustatum,
T. maximum, T. reniforme, T. rigidum, and T. renosum are all
useful and interesting plants for exhibition.

4. TREE FERNS.

These are a stately and attractive class of plants in an
exhibition, and are frequently employed, along with palms of
some height, to break up the smooth formality of the arrange-
ment of other exhibits of lower stature, and as a set-off to
the brilliant colours of flowering plants, with a very pleasing
effect. Tree-ferns require to be grown in rather lofty houses,
where they have ample room to develop to the fullest extent
their large and graceful fronds. To assist them in the pro-
duction of fronds of the largest size and most graceful form,
it is a good practice to cover the stem with a thin layer of
sphagnum, kept in its place by fine string of the same colour.
The sphagnum should be applied in spring before growth com-
mences, and it should be kept saturated hy daily pouring a
copious supply of water on to the top of it at the base of the
fronds, and plying the syringe freely over it several times a

78 FERNS.

day. Fresh roots will soon begin to push from the crown, and,
running down the moist sphagnum, will give increased vigour
to the fronds, Tree-ferns delight in abundance of moisture
in the air while growing ; but care must be taken to have the
fronds well matured, in a more airy and drier atmosphere,
before the date of the exhibition, so that they may stand ex-
posure and not be damaged in transit. Owing to the pliable
nature of their fronds, tree-ferns can be covered up and
taken to a flower show with less trouble than almost any other
class of plants ; still, all due precaution should be taken not
to injure a single frondlet which would in the least detract
from the merits of a perfect specimen.

Although tree-ferns are a numerous class in many tropical
and sub-tropical countries, the number of genera in cultiva-
tion is very limited, and not more than three or four of those
generally grown in our stoves and conservatories are ever seen
at exhibitions in tree-like proportions, with clear stems of six
feet or more in height. The best of these are included in the
following list.

ALSOPHILA.

A very handsome genus of tree-ferns, producing fronds of
magnificent proportions under good treatment, which have a
telling effect in any plant arrangements, The finest species
for exhibition are A. austral’s and A. exeelsa, both of which
thrive best in a warm greenhouse, although they are hardy
enough to grow well in any glass structure from which frost
is excluded. They grow freely in a mixture of turfy loam
and peat, plentifully sprinkled with small bits of sandstone
and charcoal. They must have a copious supply of water
while growing, and a fair allowance at all times, and the
young fronds must be shaded from the direct sunshine till
they are full-grown. The stem of Alsophila is generally
rather slender, but by judicious mossing it can be increased
to any desirable girth, and with advantage to the size of the
head of fronds.

BLECHNUM.

It is seldom Blechnums are exhibited as tree-ferns, and

unless their stems exceed three feet clear in height, they

FERNS. 79

should be excluded. When over that height, and furnished
with fresh and well-developed heads of fronds, they are very
effective in a group of plants. The only species generally
grown which assumes a useful tree-like habit is B. lraziliense,
and its two varieties, B. corcovadense and B. crispum.

BRAINEA.

Only one species, B. ins7gni’s, is in cultivation, a very beau-
tiful and interesting tree-fern from Hong-Kong, which forms
a highly effective plant in a collection when it is shown in its
best condition. In this country it is seldom seen with a stem
of sufficient height to be exhibited in the tree-fern class. It
thrives well in an intermediate house, in a comparatively
small pot, filled with a compost of fibry peat and loam, with
a liberal sprinkling of silver sand and charcoal nodules. It
requires abundance of water and shade while making its
growth.

CYATHEA.

A genus of tree-ferns, comprising some of the handsomest
species in cultivation, and of great usefulness for either deco-
rative or exhibition purposes. Among the best are C. Burke?,
C. dealbata, the handsome and popular silver tree-fern from
New Zealand ; C. ¢nsignis, known in gardens as Cilotium prin-
ceps, and C. medullaris, one of the stateliest of all the New
Zealand species. C. insignis is a native of the West Indies,
and thrives best in a stove, but the others succeed admirably
in a greenhouse, kept a little warm and moist when they are
pushing out their new fronds. They all grow well in the usual
compost for tree-ferns,—fibry loam and peat, with a free
sprinkling of sand and charcoal nodules, and plenty of drain-
age, in rather small pots. Abundance of water and shade
from sunshine while growing, and a moderate amount of both
at all other times suits them well.

DICKSONIA.
The Dicksonias are a princely race of tree-ferns, the genus
including the greatest number of handsome arborescent species
of any grown in this country, and furnishing the exhibitor

80 FERNS.

with his principal specimens in the tree-fern class. Among
the finest for exhibition is the handsome and well-known
favourite D. antarctica, which is oftener seen in good form at
horticultural shows than any other tree-fern; D. Berteroana,
an elegant and rather rare species from the Island of Juan
Fernandez; D. regalis (Cibotium reqale), a graceful species
from Mexico; and D. squariosa from New Zealand, one of the
most esteemed of all for exhibition when in first-rate condition.
All the species mentioned thrive well in a cool greenhouse, but
make the finest heads of fronds when they receive the assist-
ance of a little extra heat and abundance of moisture while
growing. A copious supply of soft water, of the same tempe-
rature as the air of the house, should be daily poured over
their crowns from the time the fronds begin to shoot up till
they are fully expanded. Like all tree-ferns, Dicksonias should
not be over-potted, and may remain in the same pot for years
if they are regularly attended to otherwise and the stems kept
moist in the growing season. After the fronds have attained
their full size, they remain longest fresh and green in a mode-
rately dry and cool atmosphere shaded from bright sunshine.
Light fibry loam and peat, with plenty of nodules of sand-
stone and charcoal, firmly pressed into the pot or tub, grows
them to perfection.
LOMARIA.

Several species of this useful genus of ferns assume an
arborescent habit with age, but few of them ever attain suffi-
cient stature to entitle them to be exhibited as tree-ferns.
L. discolor, L. gilba, L. Magellanica, and L. zamicefolia are
the best of the erect-stemmed species ; and when they reach
three feet or more of a clear stem, surmounted by a well-
balanced head of their graceful fronds, they are really beau-
tiful objects, and of much service to the decorator as well as
to the exhibitor. They thrive best in a temperate house, and
when intended for tree-ferns they should be grown in as small
pots as possible, filled with the usual fern-growing soil,—light
fibry loam, peat, and sand; kept shaded while growing, and
receive abundance of water, especially overhead, till the fronds
have reached their full size.

FERNS. 81

TODEA,

A very interesting genus of lovely ferns, of which 7. Fraseri
and 7. superba are the best for exhibition of those that form
arborescent stems. J. superba, when in its finest form, is per-
haps the most graceful of all ferns, and is a most valuable
exhibition plant. It is seldom possessed of a stem of the
necessary height to entitle it to compete in the tree-fern class,
where, at its best, it is liable to be dwarfed by the stately
Dicksonias, Cyatheas, and Alsophilas; but with a well-grown
head of perfect fronds three feet or more across, it is generally
a more meritorious plant than its bulkier neighbours. Todeas
thrive well in a cool temperature, but they grow fastest and
lengthen their fronds more rapidly when grown in a close
moist stove. They delight at all times in a close humid atmos-
phere, well shaded, and the plants kept moist by frequent
sprinklings overhead with soft, clear, tepid water. A compost
of fibry peat, silver sand, and nodules of charcoal, all well
mixed and firmly pressed into pots one-third filled with drain-
age, grows them well.

5. SELAGINELLA.

This is an extensive and singular genus of plants, very
much diversified in appearance. Some kinds are short, thick,
close, and as flat as a carpet, while others have long trailing
stems reaching out several feet from the root. A dozen of
the best kinds for exhibition are S. africana, S. apoda, 8.
caulescens, S. erythropus, S. grandis, S. hematodes, S. Krauss-
tana, S. Lyallii, 8. Martensit, 8. uneinata, 8. Wallichit, and
S. Wildenovii. With the exception of Martensii and Wilde-
novit, which grow well in a greenhouse, the others require a
stove or an intermediate temperature and a moist atmosphere
to grow them well. They should be planted in well-drained
pans in fibry peat, leaf-mould, silver sand, and small chips
of charcoal and sandstone, with some turfy loam added to the
compost for the stronger-growing kinds. For the production
of large exhibition specimens, various modes of growing and

training have to be resorted to. The low-growing, dense,
FE

82 FERNS.

carpet-like kinds should be grown nearly flat, with a slight
rise to the centre. This is accomplished by stretching rings
of wire around the outside of the pan, placing over them a
piece of wire-netting, covering it with moss, on which the
soil is laid, and the broken-up pieces of the plant with roots
thickly planted all over it. The straggling growers should be
trained as pyramids, or in the form of an obtuse cone. This
is done by widening the base, as already described. A light
hollow-framed cone may be placed in the centre, to reduce the
dead weight of the specimen and the quantity of material
required. Then begin at the bottom and build up around the
cone layer upon layer of light turfy peat or loam, or pieces
of both, laid flat and with a regular outward surface, intro-
ducing at short intervals a little fine soil with rooted pieces
of the plant until the apex is reached. A well-grown specimen
of this description, about four feet high, is a great attraction
at an exhibition.

JUDGING.

All ferns should be of graceful habit and pleasing outline,
and be set up for competition in a tasteful manner, so as to
show the merits of every specimen to the best advantage,

The general points of merit in ferns are: (1.) Fronds well
developed, and perfect in every part; (2.) graceful or stately
in habit ; and (3.) the colour of the fronds fresh and bright.

Selaginellas should be (1.) well grown, fresh, and of good
colour, without speck or blemish ; (2.) the free-growing kinds
graceful and well balanced ; and (3.) the “carpet” varieties,
with a short, close, even pile.

Tree-ferns should not be admitted for competition in that
class with less than three feet of a clear stem, measured from
the surface of the soil to the base of the crown of fronds.
The points of merit are: (1.) Round shapely stem, at least three
feet in length ; (2.) a well-developed graceful head of fronds,
without blemish ; and (3.) fresh and clear in the colour. All
points being equal, the taller the stem, with a proportionate
girth, the better the specimen.

TABLE PLANTS. 83

SECTION VII.
TABLE PLANTS.

This is generally a well filled and keenly contested class at
horticultural exhibitions, and attracts a considerable share of
attention from the public. The exhibits are usually contined
to small well-grown specimens of fine-foliaged plants, because
they are the most popular and useful section for table decora-
tion, their easy culture, durability, and graceful appearance
rendering them peculiarly suitable for the purpose. The other
sections which are occasionally exhibited at flower-shows
are flowering plants, berried plants, conifers, and ferns, all,
however, being eligible for exhibition in the one class for
“Table Plants,” unless specially divided in the schedule. Of
foliage plants there is plenty of choice, but the numbers of
suitable species in the other sections are rather limited, and
not more than six of them, if confined to d/stinct species, should
be required in competition. As a rule, it is better to stipulate
for distinct varieties only, and if the merits of the collections
are equal, then the number of species will settle the point,
the greatest number receiving the highest award.

Among the best of the first or Foliage section of Table Plants,
the following genera, with a single species or variety charac-
teristic of the most suitable type, may be selected :—Acalypha
musatca, Aralia Veitchit gracillima, Croton Chelsoni, Dracena
Sidneyt, Eulalia japonica variegata, (revillea elegans, Lomatia
elegantissima, Maranta Vettchit ; of Palms, Cocos Weddelliana
and Pheniz rupicola are two of the best representatives of the
class; Pavetta borbonica, Phrynium variegatum, Rhopala ele-
gantissima, and Terminalia elegans. The culture of this section
is of the easiest, and the proper soil and general treatment is
the same as that already described for specimen foliage plants.
Vigorous young plants must be secured, and they must be
grown as quickly as possible to maintain them in robust health
to the desired size. Rich soil, good drainage, firm potting in
small pots, and a liberal but judicious use of artificial and

84 TABLE PLANTS.

liquid manure, combined with a free application of the syringe
and perfect cleanliness at all times, will grow them to per-
fection.

The second section, or Flowering Plants, is the most attrac-
tive, including such subjects as Amaryllis, Amasonia punicea,
Anthurium, Azalea, Begonia, Cyclamen, Dielytra, Epiphyllum,
Eucharis, Fuchsia, Gesnera, Orchids, Pancratium, Primula,
Poinsettia, Rhododendron, Spirea, Thyrsacanthus, and Val-
lota. As a rule, flowering plants are much more difficult to
grow to perfection and exhibit in full beauty at a fixed date
than foliage plants, but their generally elegant habits and the
beauty of their flowers are worthy of special efforts being made
to obtain these plants in perfection. Their general culture is
described in other sections, and the special treatment required
to produce handsome, and well-flowered specimens is nearly
similar during their growing stage to that recommended for
foliage plants. Healthy young plants to start with, liberal
treatment, attention to watering and cleanliness, and a good
position near the light when nearing the flowering stage, to
form and develop the flowers, is about the surest road to
success.

The third section, or Berried Plants, are a very limited
class if confined to plants bearing what are popularly known
as “berries ;” but if plants with showy fruits are admissible
when produced on specimens of a proper size, the range of sub-
jects is considerably widened. Among the best are Ardisia,
Aucuba, Callicarpa, Capsicum, Dianella, Hardy Fruit Trees
and Bushes, Oranges, Rivina, Shimmia, and Solanum. To
have the plants in this section in their best condition, much
care is necessary, and to succeed no trouble or watching must
be grudged.

Of the fowth section, Ferns, there are numerous species
of a graceful habit suitable for competition as table plants.
Among the best are Adiantum, Asplenium, Athyrium, Blech-
num, Lastrea, Lomaria, Neottopteris, Nephrodium, Osmunda,
Pteris, and Todea. There are only certain species and varieties
of the genera mentioned that are suitable for table plants,
those with graceful fronds about one foot in length being most

TABLE PLANTS, 85

eligible for the purpose. The pinne of certain Adiantums,
such as A. Farleyense, being too heavy for the slender foot-
stalks, should be supported on fine galvanised wire with a hook
at the top to hold the frond in its natural position.

The fifth section, Conifers; this, the last section of table
plants, is, with few exceptions, the best for exhibition, their
hardiness and durability being greatly in their favour. For
competition, they should be grown under glass, and they well
repay a little trouble to bring out their best colours and points
of merit. The following are some of the best :—Araucaria
excelsa, Arthrotaxus selaginoides, Biota (Thuia) orientalis aurea,
Cupressus Lawsoniana albo-variegata, Juniperus chinensis aureo-
rariegata, Libocedrus chilensis, Retinospora plumosa albo-picta,
Thuiopsis dolabrata variegata, Thuia occidentalis elegantissima,
and Wellingtonia gigantea. All of these are grown from
cuttings in the usual manner, but care should be taken to
select the most vigorous cuttings from the points of side-
shoots, so that they may soon form well-balanced young
plants. Sound fibry loam of a medium texture suits them
well, and they should be potted rather firm in well-drained pots.
They delight in a free circulation of air, a moderate supply of
water at all times, and all the light possible to bring out their
best gold and silver variegation. In summer, syringe every
afternoon to keep them clean and fresh.

JUDGING.

The points of merit in a table plant are: (1.) Gracefulness
of habit, with every twig and leaf fresh and complete ; (2.) the
colour of flowers, foliage, and berries should be bright, without
blemish, and the markings clear and well defined, pure white,
bright red, and green taking precedence of yellow and blue.
No table plants should be exhibited in pots over six inches
in meusurement, and clean-stemmed plants are preferable to
those of a squat or bushy habit with many stems or footstalks
rising from the surface of the soil. The height of a table
plant should be about 20 inches including the pot, which
should have a suitable cover over it, and the surface of the soil
neatly covered with fresh green moss.

86 PALMS.

SECTION VIII.
PALMS.

The order of Palmacez is confined very much to tropical
regions, where many of the species grow with a stately gran-
deur and luxuriance which we can never hope to see them
attain under cultivation in our hothouses. Still, many of
them are grown with much success in our stoves and green-
houses, especially those of lower stature, which accommodate
themselves better in the limited space that can be afforded for
their development. They are all noble-looking plants when
they have attained to a fair size, and many of them are ex-
tremely graceful even while in a young and small state. It is
among these that the best and most useful kinds for exhibition
are found, a selection of which is given in this chapter, with a
few notes on their characteristics and treatment. As a rule,
palms are best when raised from seed, which in general is the
only method of increasing them.

ARECA.

A very graceful genus of palms, most of which are tropical
plants and require to be grown in the stove, although they
stand well for weeks at a time in conservatories and moderately
heated halls and rooms. The best for exhibition includes A.
aurea, A. lutescens, and A. rubra. These grow rapidly under
good treatment, and soon attain a considerable size. They
grow well in a compost of fibry loam, peat, leaf-mould, and
sand; and when they attain specimen size, loam with a sprink-
ling of bone-meal suits them best. A moist atmosphere while
growing and plenty of water at the roots is necessary. Liquid
manure should be given when the pots are full of roots.

CALAMUS.
An elegant genus of slender, rapid-growing palms, chiefly
from the East Indies, and consequently they require a strong
moist heat with plenty of water during the growing season.

PALMS. 87
C. asperrimus, C. ciliaris, and C. plumosus form fine graceful
specimens in a few years, and are the best for exhibition.
They thrive well in a mixture of loam with a third of leaf-
mould and sand. They throw up suckers freely from the
roots, which can be taken off and potted to increase the stock.

CARYOTA,

A handsome genus of palms with bipinnate leaves from six
to eight feet in length. Some of the species are rather hardy
and dwarf growing, while others grow to a great height. (.
Cumming?tt isa very elegant dwarf species, while C. Rumphiana
is tall and strong growing. C. sobolifera is a very graceful,
slender-growing dwarf palm, which throws up plenty of
suckers, by which it can be readily increased. They require
to be firmly potted in soil similar to that recommended for
Calamus.

CHAM-EDOREA,

This is a very elegant dwarf genus of palm, including numer-
ous useful species, some of which are particularly hardy, which
is a good recommendation for exhibition plants. Three of the
best species are C. elegans, C. yraminifolia, and C. Wendlandii.
They thrive best in a light open peat with a little turfy loam
and sand, and they require plenty of moisture and close shade
while making their growth.

CHAM.EROPS.

This is a genus of fan-leaved palms, natives of temperate
latitudes, and comparatively hardy, so that they are well
adapted for greenhouse culture. The best for exhibition are
C. eecelsa and C. humilis. They are very easily cultivated,
and grow well in rather strong loam, with some leaf-mould,
sand, and small pieces of charcoal. They can be increased
from suckers, which they throw up abundantly after they have
reached some size.

COCOS.

Some of the species of this genus are the finest for exhibi-
tion in the whole family. The species C. Weddelliana from

88 PALMS.

South America is one of the most graceful palms grown, and
is always admired, whether exhibited as a table plant or as a
specimen. It thrives well in one-half lumpy fibrous loam, and
the other half peat, leaf-mould, and broken pieces of sand-
stone. It enjoys strong heat and a moist atmosphere to grow
in, and must be kept free from insects.

CORYPHA.

A small genus, which in the form and size of its foliage is a
striking contrast to the Cocos. Some of the species have the
most magnificent fan-shaped leaves of any in the noble class
to which they belong. C. australis, a greenhouse, and C.
umbraculifera, a stove species, are the best for exhibition.
They require good drainage and abundance of water, and
grow well in a compost of half-fibry loam, the other half peat
and sand.

ELAEIS.

A small genus of useful palms, one species of which produces
that valuable commodity the palm-oil of commerce. Two
of the best for exhibition are EZ. guineensis and E. melanococa.
They are most useful decorative plants while small or half
specimen size. They should be grown in rich loam with a
few pieces of sandstone or charcoal to keep it open, and
luxuriate in heat and moisture while they are growing.

GEONOMA.

This genus shares pre-eminence with Cocos for beauty and
gracefulness. Most of the species are dwarf and slender in
the stem, which gives them a light and elegant appearance.
Among the best for exhibition are G. gracilis, G. Martiana
and G, procumbens. They require to be potted in light spongy
peat, fibry loam, and leaf-mould, with a little sand and nodules
of charcoal. They are almost aquatics, and much more water
should be given them than is generally supplied to palms. To
maintain the dark-green colour, they should be closely shaded
when growing, and a slight shade afterwards,

PALMS. 89

KENTIA.

A robust, very ornamental, and rather hardy genus, well
suited for an intermediate house, and are all excellent subjects
for exhibition specimens. Some of the best are A. australis,
K, Belmoreana, K. canterburyana, and K. Fosteriana, They
thrive best in a mixture of loam and peat in equal parts, with
silver sand and nodules of charcoal. Unlike many other palms,
they grow best when not too much confined at the roots,
and they must be copiously supplied with water at both roots
and overhead. Liquid manure when they are growing has a
beneficial effect.

LATANIA.

This is another genus of fan-leaved palms, all the species of
which possess that massive and majestic appearance peculiar
to the tribe, and are of the utmost importance as exhibition
specimens. Among the best are L. borbonica, L. glaucophylla,
and Z. rubra. They should be grown in strong loam with a
third of leaf-mould and a sprinkling of half-inch bones and
nodules of sandstone. They luxuriate in a moist hot stove
while making growth, but stand well in a cooler and drier house
when the foliage is matured, and they are exceedingly useful as
decorative plants.

LICUALA.

-\ genus which belongs to the fan-leaved section, and in-
habits the moist, warm parts of India. They generally
possess a slender stem, and require a long time to form a
specimen of any height. Among the finest are L. elegans,
L. grandis, and L. peltata. They grow well in peat and
loam in equal parts, with small pieces of sandstone and
charcoal. They should receive an abundance of water both
at the roots and overhead while growing, and an occasional
dose of liquid manure when the pots are full of roots.

LIVISTONA.

This is a noble genus, some of the species growing in
their native habitat to the height of a hundred feet.

90 PALMS.

They are strong robust growers, and eminently adapted for
exhibition purposes. Three of the best are L. altissima,
L. Jenkinsiana, and L. rotundifolia. They grow freely in
equal parts loam and peat, with some sharp sand and half-
inch bones. When pot-bound, a judicious application of
top-dressing and liquid manure greatly improves their ap-
pearance.
OREODOXA.

Another small genus of tall-growing palms, including the
famed cabbage-palm, O. oleracea, of the West Indies, with
long pinnate arching leaves and slender stems, much swollen
at the base. Two of the best species are O. oleracea, O.
regina, and O. Sancona, A mixture of loam and peat with a
little sand is a suitable compost, and they luxuriate in heat
and moisture while growing.

PHCENICOPHORIUM.

The handsome P. seychellarum is a rare and striking palm
from the Seychelles Islands, with leaves about eight feet
long and four feet broad when at their best. Their margins
are curiously cut up into segments, which look like a deep
vandyke fringe, and have a very fine effect. It thrives well
in rough peat and fibry loam, with some broken sandstone.
It requires a high moist temperature and a copious supply of
moisture in the air and_at its roots to fully develop the mag-
nificent leaves, which frequent doses of liquid manure greatly
help.

PHNIX.

A genus of useful and ornamental palms, of which the best
and most suitable for exhibition are P. dactylifera (date-palm),
P. reclinata, and P. rupicola. To grow them well, they re-
quire to be potted in equal parts of loam and peat, with
plenty of heat and moisture, and a free use of liquid manure.

PRITCHARDIA.
This is a small genus of recent introduction, from the
South Sea and Pacific Islands. The best exhibition species
are P. filamentosa and P. pacifica. They should be grown

PALMS. 91

in fibry peat and loam in equal parts, and a little sand and
charcoal. They require a plentiful supply of water during
the growing season, and a fair allowance at all other times,
and are much benefited by a little clear liquid manure.

PTYCHOSPERMA.

This is a handsome genus, with slender, smooth stems and
gracefully arching pinnate leaves, which have a very pretty
effect. ‘The young leaves assume a reddish tinge of colour
before they are fully expanded, after which they turn dark-
green. This peculiarity of the species is very striking and
beautiful. The best are P, Alexandre and P. rupicola. They
delight in a compost of two-thirds loam and one of peat and
sharp sand, with a high temperature and abundance of mois-
ture while they are growing.

RAPHIS.

A genus of fan-leaved palms which are very suitable for
exhibition specimens. ‘The best species are R. jlabelliformis,
with its variegated form, and R. humilis. They thrive well
in fibry peat and loam in equal parts, with a little sharp sand
added. They should receive liquid manure while growing,
which assists in developing the foliage and bringing out the
colour to perfection.

SEAFORTHIA.

The two species of this genus in cultivation, S. elegans and
S. robusta, are both elegant and useful palms. They are
comparatively hardy, and make good exhibition specimens.
“Strong loam, leaf-mould, and sand make a good compost for
them, and they thrive well under the usual treatment.

STEVENSONIA,.

This genus is composed of only one species, S. grandiflora,
one of the noblest of all the palms in cultivation. It is a
grand foliage plant, and forms a fine exhibition specimen.
A native of the Seychelles, it requires treatment similar to
what is recommended for Pheenicophorium.

92 PALMS.

THRINAX.

A genus of the fan-palm, some of the species of which are
very elegant and well adapted for exhibition. ‘Three of the
best are 7. elegans, T. multiflora, and T. parviflora. They
should be grown in a mixture of rich loam, peat, and river
sand, and luxuriate in a warm moist atmosphere while making
their growth.

VERSCHAFFELTIA.

This genus includes one grand species for exhibition pur-
poses, V. splendida, which is a very distinct palm, and forms
a fine contrast among others of the family. It is a native of
the Seychelles Islands, and requires similar treatment to the
Pheenicophorium.

GENERAL REMARKS.

The general details of the cultivation of every species of
palm are given at length in many excellent works on stove
and greenhouse plants, easy of access to all wishing for in-
formation, so that we have confined our remarks to a few
leading points in their special culture for exhibition. To that
we may now add some useful hints of general application to
the class. Every precaution should be taken, and every
means used, to preserve the foliage of palms in a perfect
state, as upon that alone are they valued as exhibition speci-
mens. Insects of every kind should be diligently watched
for, and all known means of prevention used to keep the
plants free from their attack ; and should they ever appear,
no time should be lost in extirpating them. Palms delight
in a rather close moist atmosphere while they ave making
growth, and are much benefited by a judicious use of arti-
ficial and liquid manures. As a rule, they thrive best when
grown in moderate-sized pots, which the roots can quickly
fill after a shift. Great care must always be exercised in
watering newly shifted palms, because over-watering is certain
to sour the soil, and the result will be disappointment; at the
same time, they must not be allowed to suffer from want of
water, the result of which will be equally detrimental to the

MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 93

health of the plant. They should not be subject to any sudden
changes, and when nearing the show-day, they ought to be
carefully and gradually hardened off, so as to be able to bear
the exposure without risk of injury. In preparing the plants
for transport to the exhibition, the leaves should be carefully
drawn up towards the centre, and be securely tied to a stout
stake, round which cloth and cotton-wool has been wrapped,
to prevent injury by rubbing. The pinne should be all
neatly laid in, and secured with strands of flat raffia, using
tissue-paper and cotton-wool wads wherever necessary, to pre-
vent crushing or rubbing. When all are securely laid in,
the whole should be wrapped in a soft cloth or sheet, and
the plant may then be transported any reasonable distance in
perfect safety, even in coldish weather if frost does not pre-
vail. .All packing materials must be entirely removed from
every specimen before it is set up for competition ; and after
they are placed, a careful glance around ought to be given, to
see that every leaf is shaken out free, and all in perfect order.
Equal care should be given to the repacking and taking home
of exhibition plants, because every blemish to the foliage is
permanent, and can never be got rid of till the leaf is removed.
When safely returned to their quarters, they should be kept
w little close and moist for a few days, when they will pick
themselves up, and look as fresh and beautiful as if they had
never been out of the house at a flower-show; and whenever
they are wanted, they are ready again to do the same work,
which, in short, means ‘successful exhibiting.”

JUDGING,
In judging Palms the chief points of merit are: (1.) A free

graceful habit; (2.) size and freshness of the leaves; and (3.)
size, health, and cleanness of the plant.

Y4 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS.

SECTION IX.
MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS.

Among the leading features in this highly important section
of exhibition plants are: (1.) The autumn and winter flower-
ing Chrysanthemum ; (2.) bulbous plants in flower, the best of
which are the Amaryllis, Hyacinth, Lily of the Valley, Nar-
cissus, and Tulip; (3.) soft-wooded plants, which flower
naturally in winter and spring, or are amenable to mild
forcing, such as the Auricula, Balsam, Begonia, Calceolaria,
Cineraria, Coxcomb, Cyclamen, Geranium, Gloxinia, Hydran-
gea, Mignonette, Pelargonium, Petunia, and Primula; and
(4.) hardy plants, which force easily, and produce a rich display
of the most beautiful colours when so treated, including
Azalea, Deutzia, Dielytra, Lilac, Rhododendron, Rose, Spirea,
and many others. In the prize schedules of the leading
Horticultural Societies most of the kinds enumerated are
favoured with one or more classes to themselves, and they also
form an important feature in all collections and groups of
plants when they are not specially excluded. The principal
genera and the best kinds are described in the following pages.

ALOYSIA.

The Sweet Verbena, Aloysia citriodora, is a plant with
little show or decorative value; but its sweet citron-scented
leaves have given it a wide reputation, and its easy culture
has established it as a favourite exhibition plant with the
cottager and the amateur. It is a free grower, which, with
good management, will produce a fair specimen in two years
from the cutting. Pot in rich sandy loam and leaf-mould,
set the plants in a frame near the glass, stake the leading
shoot, and pinch the side shoots during summer to form a
pyramid. After the growth is made the water should be
reduced, and the plants set in the open air to ripen the wood.
Being deciduous, it should be kept almost dry to rest it in
winter, and the shoots should be well pruned in previous to
starting in a mild heat, earlier or later, according to the time

MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 95

it is wanted for exhibition. When fairly started, it should be
grown in a frame or airy position in the greenhouse, and to
have it in fine condition for the show, pinch and regulate the
shoots to make a well-filled pyramid, and supply the roots
with weak liquid manure to give breadth and substance to the
leaves. The points of merit are: (1.) Size and symmetry of the
specimen ; (2.) breadth, thickness, and health of the leaves.

ASPIDISTRA.

The Aspidistra luriila variegata is also eminently adapted
for culture as an exhibition plant by the amateur, and, like
the Sweet Verbena, it is often met with in fine condition in
the cottagers’ windows. It even takes a high place, when
well-coloured, in any collection of greenhouse foliage plants,
and for general usefulness in house decoration it has few
equals. It is easily increased by division of the plant, and
should be potted ina mixture of rough loam and peat, with
some charcoal and bits of sandstone. Shift into larger pots as
required without disturbing the roots, and give plenty of water
in summer, with a little liquid manure to assist in developing
the foliage to its full size, care being taken not to overdo it
to spoil the variegation. Shade from strong sun, and give
enough water in winter to keep the leaves and roots healthy.

The points of merit are: (1.) Size, health, and vigour of
the plant; (2.) size and colour of the leaves, which should be
without blemish and the variegation pure.

AURICULA.

The Auricula, Primula Auricula, or Bear’s Ear, better known
in Scotland as the “ Dusty Miller,” has again become a very
popular plant, after suffering neglect for a considerable period.
Florists arrange them into Alpine and Stage Auriculas, and
the latter are divided into Green-edged, Grey-edged, White-
edged, and Selfs.

The following are some of the best varieties for competition
in each class :—

Alpine.—A. F. Barron, Colonel Scott, Evening Star, Mrs. Dodwell,
Sailor Prince, and Triumphant.

96 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS.

Green-edged.—Apollo, Colonel Taylor, F. D. Horner, Freedom, Lady
Ann, and Prince of Greens.

Grey-edged.— Alderman, Charles E. Brown, Dr. Horner, George Light-
body, John Waterston, and Robert Traill.

White-edged.—Acme, Beauty, Conservative, Glory, Smiling Beauty,
and True Briton,

Selfs. Blackbird, Formosa, Heroine, Lord of Lorn, Othello, and
Pizarro.

The points of a perfect flower of the Stage Auricula are, the
tube yellow—not always obtained—circular, well filled with
golden-coloured anthers, and free from fluting ; the paste cir-
cular, solid, and as near white as possible ; the ground colour
unbroken and distinct where it surrounds the paste, but its outer
edge flashes more or less into the edge, although the irregulari-
ties should never extend through it. The edge should be pure
in colour, and the circumference of the pip should not be notched
nor pointed, but perfectly even and smooth. Selfs have gene-
rally a notch in the lip of the petal, but some are without
it, and the aim of all raisers is to have the ‘‘roseleaf” petal
in all new varieties. Alpines should have a golden yellow or
white centre, without powder, the body varied in colour, and
the edge of one colour, paler at the outer edge.

Auriculas may be grown in the open border in ordinary
soil, but to grow specimens for exhibition in their most perfect
condition, a small house or frame, constructed expressly for
them, is indispensable for success. In it they can receive
abundance of light and air, two important agents in their
successful cultivation, and be securely protected from storms
of wind and rain. The plants should be regularly inspected,
and their wants punctually met, so as to command the greatest
success, The following compost suits them admirably :—Three
parts of well-rotted turfy loam from an old pasture, one of dry
cow-dung, one of leaf-mould, and one of sand, and in mixing
the compost every worm that is seen in it should be picked
out, Four-inch pots are generally sufficient, but the larger
plants require 5-inch pots. In England it is usual to re-pot
the plants in May, but in Scotland the best time is July and
August. Use clean pots and drain them well. Fill in the
soil and press it down at the sides of the pot, leaving a cone

MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 97

in the centre. Shake the earth clean from the roots of the
plant, examine it carefully, and cut clean away all diseased or
decaying parts, and trim the roots to about two inches in
length. Dress the cut parts with powdered charcoal, and put
some of it on the top of the cone, upon which place the plant,
and spread the roots equally around. Press the soil firmly
about the roots, and leave a quarter of an inch of the bare
stem above the surface of the soil, which should be half an
inch below the rim of the pot. To avoid bleeding, all leaves
must be thoroughly withered before they are taken off. When
re-potted, water the plants and put them back into the frame,
and afterwards give water only when they require it, being
very careful to let none drop into the heait of the plants.
Remove them from the frame to the house about the end of
September, where they should remain till they bloom, and
when the trusses are well up they should be shaded from
bright sun. Greenfly sometimes attacks the plants, but if the
insects are at once washed off with a sponge they do little
damage. In some places the plant is infested with a small
grey louse called the ‘‘ Woolly Aphis,” which should be imme-
diately cleared off whenever it appears, either at the collar of
the plant or on the roots. Plants for competition should have
a truss of five, seven, nine, or eleven pips, and before taking
them to the show some cotton-wool should be placed between
the foot-stalks to keep the pips from injury, and the truss tied
to a small stake, these being removed when the show is reached.
They should be securely packed in boxes to prevent injury in
transit. Ina collection of Auriculas, the plants should be even-
sized, and the colours distinct. The points of merit are:
(1.) Health of the foliage, height and strength of the flower
stem ; (2.) the truss of flowers should be so disposed that the
whole may be seen; (3.) the pips should be round, flat, and
free from blemish ; and (4.) they should be as near perfect as
possible in colour and markings.

AZALEA.

The Ghent and Japanese (A. stnensis, syn. A. mollis) varieties

supply diversity of colour and profusion of bloom at any period
G

98 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS.

during winter and spring, with very little trouble and at small
expense. A few of the best Japanese varieties are Apelles,
Baron E. de Rothschild, Consul Pecher, Flora, Phoebe, and
A. sinensis alba grandiflora ; and of Ghent varieties, Admiral
de Ruyter, Coccinea Major, Madame J. Baumann, Macrantha,
Princess of Orange, and Viscosa floribunda. They are easily
grown, fair success being attained by lifting healthy plants
well set with flower-buds from the open border, potting them
in sandy peat, and introducing them to the forcing-house.
Plants that have been well managed and established in pots
previous to forcing are, however, more reliable, and should
be preferred. In a brisk heat they will flower in about six
weeks, but too rapid forcing is detrimental to good quality.
Liquid manure should be given when the buds begin to swell,
and continued till the flowers are opening, when the plants
should be removed to the greenhouse and shaded. The points
of merit are: (1.) Size and health of the plant; (2.) size and
form of flowers and profusion of bloom ; and (3.) substance of
petals, pureness of colour, and distinctness of marking.

BALSAM.

This makes a showy and effective exhibition specimen when
grown and flowered to perfection. Being an annual, it is raised
from seed, which should be selected from the best strain, sown
early in March, in shallow pans filled with fine loam, leaf-
mould, and a sprinkling of sand, and placed in a hotbed to
germinate quickly. When about two inches high the seedlings
should be potted into four-inch pots, set near the glass, and
kept shaded till the roots are running freely, when abundance
of air and light should be admitted to keep the plants dwarf
and compact. When the pots are well filled with roots, shift
the plants into two sizes larger, giving them richer soil. The
final shift into nine-inch pots should be given as soon as the
roots reach the side, using rich soil, and potting moderately
firm. When the flower-buds appear, the plants should be
placed in an airy greenhouse, fully exposed to the light, and
supplied with weak liquid manure twice a week; that made from
sheep-droppings and soot is excellent. The points of merit are:

MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 99

(1.) Size, compactness, and freshness of the plant; (2.) quality
and quantity of expanded flowers, which should be double, full,
and well formed.

BEGONIA.

The species and varieties of Begonia are both numerous and
useful. The tuberous-rooted section, to which our remarks
apply, includes splendid varieties, which produce seedlings, if
carefully selected, of equal merit, if not superior, to the parents.
A year-old tuber of good size is a suitable subject on which to
build an exhibition specimen. The roots should be shaken
out in March, and potted in six-inch pots, using a compost of
rich sandy loam, old manure rubbed down, some bone-meal,
sand, and wood-ashes. Plunge the pots near the glass in a
mild heat, and give the shoots all the light and air possible to
ensure a sturdy short-jointed growth. Before the flower-buds
appear, remove the plants to a warm greenhouse, re-pot, and
train out the shoots, keeping the lower ones down over the
edge of the pot. Pinch the strong shoots and cut out the
weak ones, to admit light and air through the centre of the
plant. When the roots are through the new soil, feed with
weak liquid manure and shade from bright sun. The points
of merit are: (1.) Size and healthy condition of the plant ;
(2.) size and number of flowers ; and (3.) substance and colour
of the flowers, which should be pure, bright, and distinct.

CALCEOLARIA.

The herbaceous or greenhouse kinds of Calceolaria have
flowers so different from those of other plants, and the variety
of colour is so diversified as to give them prominence among
other subjects for exhibition. Seed from the finest strain
should be sown in June or July, according to the time the
plants are wanted in flower. When the seedlings are large
enough, prick them in boxes four inches apart among sandy
soil and leaf-mould, and when they have made six to eight
leaves, shift into six-inch pots, using one part sandy loam, and
one part leaf-mould, sand, rotted sheep or cow manure. Place
near the glass in a cool frame on a damp bottom, water regu-
larly, and keep them clear of insects, When the roots have

100 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS.

reached the side of the pots, they should be shifted into nine-inch
or flowering pots, giving no more heat than is necessary to
keep out frost. Early in spring give liquid manure regularly,
made from sheep-droppings and soot, and an occasional pinch
of good artificial manure spread over the pots once a week,
and watered in with clean soft water, has a beneficial effect
on the size and quality of the flowers. Stake the plants neatly
before the flowers begin to expand, keeping the lower side-shoots
down to an angle of 45°, and the remainder equally distributed
over the plant. The points of merit are: (1.) Size and health
of the plant, which should be dwarf and compact; (2.) number
of heads and size of flowers ; and (3.) texture, colour, and form
of the flowers,
CHRYSANTHEMUM.

An extensive and useful tribe of plants, which has repre-
sentatives throughout Europe and Asia; the species from
which the most popular flower of the day has sprung, C.
sinensis, being a native of China. The varieties have been
crossed and re-crossed, with the result that all imaginable
colours and forms have been produced, and it almost seems
as if it were impossible to further improve or distort the race.
The following dozen varieties are some of the best for culture
as specimen plants for exhibition :— Alfred Salter, Belle Paule,
Blanche Fleur, Bouquet Fait, Golden Christine, James Salter,
Margot, Madame Bertie Rendatler, Madame de Sevin, Mrs.
G. Rundle, Mrs. Dixon, and Soleil Levant. These represent
the various forms, and are all free-flowering, which is of the
greatest importance in plants for exhibition. The best time to
take cuttings is from the middle of December to the middle of
January, and the best place to strike them is in a cool house
or frame where heat can be applied to keep out frost. In
selecting the cuttings, the sturdy, healthy, clean shoots at or
near the base of the stem should be taken. They should be
inserted firmly in 24-inch pots, using a mixture of leaf-mould
and river sand in about equal proportions. They should
then be set as near the glass as possible, and in a position
where they can be shaded from the sun, and kept close
until they are making roots freely, when they should receive

MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 101

all the light and air they can stand without flagging, so as
to secure short-jointed sturdy growth. When the plants
nearly fill the pots with roots, they should be shifted into pots
an inch larger, using loam, leaf-mould, and sand, replaced in
the same position, and carefully watered until the roots have
penetrated the new soil. By the beginning of March all
rooted cuttings should have received their first shift, and the
most forward will be ready for the next, after which they
should be placed in cold frames, protecting them only from
frost and cold winds. It is a good plan to turn the plants
carefully out of the pots and examine their roots before shift-
ing them, as some varieties root quickly and may be ready
for shifting by the beginning of March, while others may not
require it until towards the end of April. Great care and
discrimination is required at this stage of their growth, and
any slow-rooting varieties should be brought forward with
heat, to be finally shifted along with the others.

The second shift should be into 54-inch pots, the strong
growers into pots an inch larger, using soil similar to that
employed at the last shift. When the roots have taken
possession of the soil, the plants should receive their final
shift into flowering pots, which may be 9 or 10 inches in
diameter for single plants, and 11 or 12 inches when three
plants are placed in a pot. Larger pots are unnecessary, and
should not be allowed in competition. The compost should
consist of two-thirds rich fibry loam, and one-third in equal
parts of leaf-mould and dried cow-manure, with the addition
of rough sand to make the whole free and open. To every
barrow-load should be added one peck of bone-meal and one-
half peck of any good artificial manure. In the case of extra-
heavy soil, a little charcoal nuts should be added, and the
whole well mixed together. A “ potting-stick’’ should be
used to firm the soil round the side of the pot, so as to pro-
duce hard fibry roots, which give firmness and solidity to the
wood, a condition essential for the production of a quantity of
flowers of good quality. Over-crowding in the frames should
be avoided, and the sashes should be taken off in favourable
weather, but replaced in frosty nights or during heavy rain.

102 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS.

If greenfly makes its appearance, the infested shoots should
be dusted when dry with tobacco-powder; and if mildew
appears, it should be immediately dusted with flowers of.
sulphur. The plants should be ready for their summer
quarters by the Ist of June. An open airy position, but
well sheltered from strong winds, is the best for them. They
should be arranged at suitable distances apart, leaving suffi-
cient room to get between them for disbudding, tying, and
watering. There are various modes of training adopted for
exhibition plants, such as pyramid, standard, and others, but
unless a particular form is specially stipulated for in the
schedule, the best, as producing good results with a minimum
of labour, is the low bush form. The young shoots should
be early started round the stakes in a spiral course, and
pinched in the end of May or beginning of June, according
to the earliness or lateness of the variety. Three shoots
should be preserved from this break, which would give nine
crown buds to the plant. This number being rather few, and
possibly too early, these shoots should also be pinched after
making about six inches of growth, and other three shoots
preserved from each, thus giving twenty-seven terminal buds
to the plant, which number is sufficient for a pot of large
flowering chrysanthemums. All other shoots should be at
once rubbed out, the branches tied well down to keep the
plants dwarf, and the leaves all brought to the outside for
exposure to the light. During July the growth will be rapid,
and requires much attention, The plants should be looked
over twice every day, giving water only to those actually
requiring it; too much water does more harm to the plants
than slight want of it, but they must not be allowed to become
parched or to flag. Where the pots are exposed to the rays
of the sun, they may be shaded with boards, or any suitable
material at command. When the buds appear, they should
be all nipped out except the terminal ones, which should be
carefully preserved and tied into position, spreading them as
equally as possible over the plants.

When the plants are thoroughly established and the pots
full of roots, usually about the middle of July in the case

MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 103

of vigorous growers, they should be fed every second or
third day with weak liquid manure, gradually increasing the
strength of the liquid as they are able to bear it. We have
adopted the following method and materials, with fair success,
for feeding chrysanthemums. First, a barrowful of fresh
cow-dung and a bushel of soot are put into a half-hogshead
cask, mixing it well) The cask is then filled with water,
well stirred, and allowed to stand to settle, when the clear
liquid is fit for use, and is reduced to the required strength
with clean soft water. When the clear liquid is exhausted,
a barrowful of horse-droppings is added, and the cask re-
filled with water, well stirred, and allowed to settle before
using. In the second week in August the plants are top-
dressed with about half an inch thick of the following mix-
ture :—A third of turfy loam, another of leaf-mould and coarse
sand, and the remaining third equal parts of bone-meal, arti-
ficial manure, and wood-ashes. Until the roots have fully
occupied the top-dressing, only clean water is given; after-
wards diluted liquid manure is again applied. About the
first week of September the cask is cleaned out, and a
barrowful of fresh sheep-droppings, the same of cow-dung,
and a bushel of soot are put in, filling it up with water,
stirring it well, and allowing it time to settle as before. It
is then given to the plants at every watering, the strength
being carefully regulated according to the condition and re-
quirements of the plants. In about a fortnight afterwards
a barrowful of manure from the poultry-yard, with a little
sulphate of ammonia, are put into the cask, which carries
on the supply till the beginning of October. The cask is
then refilled with a mixture of cow, sheep, and pig’s dung,
adding some soot and artificial manure, which will last as
long as liquid manure is beneficial. These have all proved
excellent liquids, but they must be used with sound judg-
ment, and inexperienced cultivators must remember that
“weak and often” is a golden rule in the use of all stimu-
lating manures, whether they are liquid or solid, and they
should never be applied to plants suffering from dryness.

By the beginning of October the plants should be well

104 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS.

furnished with strong leathery leaves, covering all stems
and stakes, and the buds hard and well formed. As soon
afterwards as there is any danger from frost, the plants
should be taken into the greenhouse, given plenty of air in
favourable weather, and a little heat early in the day to
dispel damp. If necessary, the heat may be kept up gently,
to bring the blooms forward for the show, but the less of
artificial heat that is required the better for the blooms. The
points of merit are: (1.) Size and condition of the plant;
(2.) size, number, and freshness of the blooms ; and (3.) colour
and substance of the petals.

CINERARIA.

The Cineraria is another very showy plant, which makes an
excellent companion to the Calceolaria, and succeeds under
similar conditions, except that it will not endure so low a
degree of cold with impunity. There are some excellent
named varieties, but plants raised from seed of a good strain
are all that can be desired. Seedling plants for exhibition
must be from a specially good selected strain, or they are just
so much labour lost, and end in bitter disappointment. Seed
should be sown about the same time as recommended for the
Calceolaria, and the plants grown on in the same manner.
The final shift should be into ten-inch pots, using a little
more manure and rougher soil than at previous shifts. They
are particularly subject to the attacks of greenfly, and should
be slightly fumigated at short intervals to keep them in check,
as they will not bear strong fumigation. The points of merit
are: (1.) Size and condition of the plant ; (2.) size of flowers,
and number expanded ; and (3.) breadth, substance, and form
of the petals, and distinctness of marking.

COCKSCOMB.

Although of a rather stiff and formal habit, this is a
favourite exhibition plant in many localities, and well repays
a little extra care to bring it to perfection. Being a stove
annual, the same soil and treatment that the Balsam requires
suits it well; but it must be grown throughout in stove-heat

MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 105

to get it up to its best exhibition form. It should be kept
close to the glass to keep it dwarf and stocky ; but if it grows
too high, that can be remedied by notching the stem just as the
comb appears, on both sides near the base of the leaves, and
“mossing ” it with a handful of rich light soil enclosed within
the moss, into which the stem will quickly root from the upper
part of the notch. When the comb is fully grown, the stem
will be well rooted in the moss, and then may be safely cut off
below the ball, placed in a suitable pot, and shaded for a few
days till the roots run freely into the new soil, when it should
be gradually hardened off, and is then ready for exhibition.
Combs of a very large size have been grown in an ordinary
dung frame, when kept close to the glass and supplied with
liquid manure twice a week. The chief points of merit are :
(1.) Size of the comb and health of the foliage ; (2.) form of the
comb, which should be close and even; and (3.) substance and
colour of the comb, which should be uniform.

CYCLAMEN.

The Persian Cyclamen forms a most beautiful and effective
dwarf specimen when well grown, and it is specially attractive
when used along with other plants as an edging to a group.
There are many good named varieties, but plants can be
grown from seed, the best of which will make first-rate
specimens for exhibition the second season after being raised.
The seed should be sown early in August, and the seedlings
pricked off and grown on in rich light loam and sand with
all the care that can be given to them, so as to secure well-
ripened crowns two inches or more in diameter by the fol-
lowing autumn. They should be re-potted into five-inch pots,
and started from September to November, according to the
date of the show. They thrive well in a compost of rich fibry
loam, leaf-mould, well-rotted manure, and silver sand, well
mixed, and made only moderately firm in the pot. A little
bottom-heat should be given until the roots are well through
the soil, when the plants should receive a final shift into seven-
inch pots, to which they should be confined in competitions.
A slight shade from strong sun and a plentiful supply of water

106 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS.

are essential to free growth. When they are nearly full
grown and the flowers appearing, they should be set in an
airy place near the glass in the greenhouse, and supplied
freely with manure-water. The points of merit are: (1.) Size
and perfect condition of the plant; (2.) number and size of the
flowers ; and (3.) quality of the flowers, which should be well
formed, petals thick, pure, and rich in colour.

DEUTZIA.

The most useful of this genus are D. crenata lure pleno and
D. gracilis. The latter is a most graceful plant, and the one
generally chosen for exhibition. Beginning with a healthy
specimen just done flowering, the shoots which have borne the
flowers should be well cut back to encourage strong growths
from the base. When they have grown about two inches, the
plants should be turned out, the roots shortened, and re-potted
in sandy loam, leaf-mould, well-rotted manure, and a sprinkling
of bone-meal. The heat and moisture in a newly started
vinery suits them well while making growth, and when it is
finished the plants should be gradually hardened off, after-
wards placed outside to ripen, and then stored in a cold frame
for the winter. Before starting, the shoots should be regulated
and trained into shape to form a free feathery bush, which
is the best shape for exhibition, the shoots bending out grace-
fully, and so disposed that the flowers may be well seen. They
should be started and treated as the Azalea for exhibition. The
points of merit are : (1.) Size and health of the plant ; (2.) num-
ber and length of sprays; and (3.) size and texture of the
flowers.

DIELYTRA.

D. spectabilis is a showy hardy herbaceous perennial, well
adapted for forcing for exhibition. Large stools should be
planted three feet apart in « rich open border, and due atten-
tion paid to their proper treatment for two seasons, by care-
fully manuring, watering, and staking them, when they will
be in the best condition for forcing. A 12-inch pot should be
filled with one or more of the stools, using rich loam and well-

MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 107

rotted manure, with good drainage. After being watered,
they may be started at once if the time is right for the show.
The plants, when in full growth, should be liberally fed, and
the flower-stems neatly supported by stakes. The points of
merit are: (1.) Size and health of the plant; (2.) number and
length of the panicles of flowers; and (3.) size of flowers and
purity of colour.

GERANIUM.

Zonale Geraniums for exhibition purposes are usually divided
into (1.) Zonales proper, or those with a more or less dis-
tinct dark zone on a green leaf; (2.) Bicolors ; (3.) Bronzes ;
and (4.) Tricolors, in accordance with the prominent features
of their foliage. The Zonales are grown and exhibited for their
flowers alone, and are generally subdivided into single and
double-flowered varieties. The variegated-leaved, or Bicolor,
Bronze, and Tricolor divisions, are exhibited solely for their
foliage, and flowers rising above it are decidedly objectionable.
A few excellent varieties of single Zonales are H. Cannell, John
Gibbons, Meteor, Niphetos, Plutarch, and Vesuvius; and of
double varieties, Charming, Circe, Gambetta, Gloire de France,
Mrs. H. Cannell, and Mrs. Langtry. Ivy-leaved geraniums
may also be included here, because the great improvement in
them in recent years fully entitles them to a special class at
exhibitions. Some of the best varieties are A. F. Barron,
Emile Lemoine, La France, Masterpiece, Madame Thibaut,
and Charles Turner. Geraniums can be had in flower all
the year round under good treatment, but the cultivation
described here applies specially to those grown for exhibition
at spring shows. The plants should be firmly potted in light
loam, leaf-mould, sand, and rotted manure well rubbed down, -
with a sprinkling of bone-meal and wood-ashes. The shoots
should be tied down to wires running outside the pot, two or
three in number, according to the size of the plant. A light
airy position in the greenhouse should be given them, and the
strong shoots stopped till the specimen is complete ; when the
foliage should round off nicely to about three inches below the
rim of the pot. Liquid manure should be given when growth

108 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS.

is being made, and the flower-trusses picked off as soon as
they appear, until three or four weeks, according to the time
of the year, before the plants are wanted for exhibition. The
points of merit are: (1.) Size, form, and health of the plant ;
(2.) number and size of the trusses, which should stand well
above the foliage ; and (3.) quality and size of the flowers, which
should be fresh and pure in colour ; the single large and broad
in petal, and of good texture; the double well formed, full,
and each pip standing out clear, without crushing in the truss.

Some of the best Bicolors are Chelsea Gem, Elegance, Flower
of the Day, Iduna, Mrs. Parker, and Triomphe de Gand. Of
Bronzes: Best Bronze, Black Douglas, and Maréchal M‘Mahon.
Of Golden-leaved: Cloth of Gold, Crystal Palace Gem, and
Golden Superb. Of Golden Tricolors: Lucy Grieve, Master-
piece, Mrs. Henry Cox, Mrs. Strang, Prince of Wales, and
Queen of Tricolors. And of Silver Tricolors: Lass 0’ Gowrie,
Her Majesty, Isle of Beauty, Italia Unita, Mrs. Laing, and
Queen of Hearts. Their cultivation is similar to that of the
Zonale section, except that the soil should not be so rich, and
being more dificult to keep healthy during the winter, they
should be placed on a shelf near the glass in the warmest end
of the house, and no more water given than will keep the roots
from shrivelling. The Bicolors and Tricolors should be grown
in a cold frame during summer, and kept close to the glass.
The Bronze and Golden-leaved may be set on boards in the
open air in a sheltered place. When the pots are well filled
with roots, liquid manure may be given to increase the breadth
of the foliage, but not sufficient to affect their perfect colouring.
All flowers should be removed as they appear, and the shoots
tied in and pinched as they require it. The points of merit
ave: (1.) Size, health, and form of the plant; (2.) colour and
freshness of the leaves ; and (3.) colour of the zone, which should
be distinct and bright, and the light parts of the leaf pure and
clean. The points of merit in the Bronze section are similar,
except that the zone should be a light or dark bronze, and dis-
tinct from the other parts of the leaf, which should also be of
a bronze shade; while the Golden and other kinds should con-
form exactly to their names.

MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 109

GLONXINIA.

There are many good varieties of this popular flower in
cultivation, from which the best for exhibition can easily be
selected, those with erect flowers being generally most appre-
ciated. Great variety of colour and excellent form can be
obtained from seed, which should be sown in pans of fine peat
and leaf-mould during February, and placed in a temperature
of 65°. Care should be taken not to cover the seed, which
should be sown on a thin layer of pure silver sand, pressed
down, and watered through a fine roxe. Cover the pan with
glass and shade the young seedlings from sun, and as soon as
they can be handled prick out in boxes, and admit sun and air
after they have started to grow. Their subsequent treatment
is similar to that of the Begonia, except that fibrous peat
should be substituted for loam, and they require a higher
temperature to develop the foliage and flowers. The best
varieties among the seedlings should be selected in autumn,
and well ripened preparatory to being cultivated for exhi-
bition specimens the following season. The points of merit
are: (1.) Size of plant, health of foliage, and number of
flowers ; (2.) size and substance of flowers; and (3.) colour,
which should be pure and bright, and the marking distinct.

GUELDER ROSE.

This well-known and conspicuous hardy flowering shrub is
one of the most useful for early spring forcing, and when a
good specimen is seen at a flower-show it attracts much atten-
tion, with its profusion of globular heads of snow-white flowers.
Suitable plants should be well prepared beforehand, by a year
or more of good cultivation in rich loam, in a warm sheltered
spot, fully exposed to the sun, where the plant can be carefully
built up into an exhibition specimen by attention to water-
ing, manuring, and regulating the shoots, which should be
thoroughly ripened the autumn previous to the show. The
plants should be lifted and potted in good sound loam as soon
as the leaves have fallen in October, and then set away in a
cool place, protected from storms until the time arrives for

110 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS.

starting them. About eight weeks careful forcing in spring
is sufficient to bring them into flower. Great care is required
to regulate the opening of the flowers, so that they may
carry safely to the show, which must be within a few days
after they are fully expanded. The points.of merit are: (1.)
Size and vigour of the plant; (2.) size, freshness, and number
of heads of flowers; and (3.) colour pure white, and petals of
good substance,

HYACINTH.

There is a great choice of good varieties among these, and
every competitor has his own particular fancy. A dozen of
fine varieties for exhibition, including those with blue, red,
white, and yellow flowers, are Alba maxima, Czar Peter,
Grandeur-a-Merveille, Ida, King of Blacks, King of Blues,
King of Yellows, Kohinoor, La Grandeur, Lord Macaulay,
Solfaterre, and Von Schiller. Only well-ripened firm bulbs
can produce first-rate exhibition flowers. They should be
potted in October to be in flower in April. Use five-inch pots,
well drained and filled with a rich compost of light loam, leaf-
mould, sand, and well-rotted manure, placing the bulb about
two-thirds into the soil, Water, and then plunge the pots in
ashes in the open air, covering them six inches deep. Remove
them to the greenhouse when about two inches started, shading
slightly till the leaves become green, and then give air freely
to keep them sturdy. As soon as the flower-scapes appear
the plants should be regularly fed with weak liquid manure,
made from sheep-droppings and soot, and given an occasional
sprinkling of guano, or any good artificial manure, on the
surface of the soil, and watering it in.

The spikes of flowers should be attended to as they grow,
and all pips put into place, so that the head may be even and
regular. The flower-stem should be so stout as to keep the
spike erect without the aid of a stake, but for safety in transit
to the show it is necessary to support each flower-spike with
a neat stake. The spikes should be carefully dressed, and
all pips placed in proper position by the use of two pointed
sticks before they are staged. The points of merit are:

MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 111

(1.) The length, diameter, and symmetry of the spike; (2.) the
size and substance of the pips, which should be well shaped ;
and (3.) the purity, and richness of the colour.

HYDRANGEA.

A genus of hardy or greenhouse plants, some of which are
largely cultivated for their handsome heads of bloom. They
are naturally autumn-flowering, but with special treatment
can be brought into flower early in the season. The best for
exhibition are H. hortensis and H. paniculata grandiflora.
The former produces large heads of rose-coloured flowers, while
the latter has long spikes of beautiful pure white flowers. The
proper ripening of the wood and early setting of the flower-
buds are the two points which must be secured to ensure
successful forcing and early flowering. As soon as the flower-
ing is past, the plants should be cut down to two eyes from
the base of the shoots, re-potted, placed in heat to make their
growth, and afterwards transferred to an airy position near the
glass in the greenhouse till the wood is ripe and the buds pro-
minent. They should not be kept too dry during winter, and
may be forced into Hower under the same conditions as the
Deutzia. The points of merit are: (1.) Size and health of
the specimen ; (2.) number and size of heads of flower; and
and (3.) size, substance, and colour of the flowers.

LILAC.

This is one of the most beautiful and useful of hardy flower-
ing shrubs, and forces well for exhibition in early spring,
when the plants are properly prepared, the best kinds being
Charles X. and the Persian. The first requires a place in the
forcing-house very much shaded, in order to bring out the
pure white colour which it assumes when forced, otherwise
they should be treated the same as the Azalea, except that
equal parts of loam and peat should be used in potting. The
points of merit are: (1.) Size and condition of the plant ;
(2.) size of spike, and of flower; and (3.) richness, and purity
of colour.

112 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS.

LILY OF THE VALLEY.

This chaste flower is a general favourite on account of its
modest beauty and sweet perfume. To obtain strong crowns
for forcing, as near as possible equal to those grown in Ger-
many, the plants should be cultivated on rich firm ground, in a
sheltered position not too much exposed, planting the crowns
singly two inches apart and in rows one foot asunder. It is
of the greatest importance that the leaves have plenty of room
to develop and the crowns to get well ripened. In selecting the
crowns for an exhibition specimen, the rows should be loosened
with a fork, and the strongest drawn out with roots attached.
They should then be thickly set in a shallow pan 14 inches
wide, using a compost of rich loam, leaf-mould, and sharp
sand. They should be watered and placed in a close frame
for two or three weeks previous to forcing. They like a strong
moist heat, and plenty of light to develop the leaves along
with the flowers. The points of merit are: (1.) Size and
health of the specimen ; (2.) number and length of the flower-
spikes; and (3.) size, purity, and freshness of the flowers,

MIGNONETTE.

This plant is grown chiefly for the fragrance of its flowers,
and is esteemed by many as of more value than a gorgeous
display of brilliant inflorescence. To obtain large exhibition
specimens, seed from a vigorous and choice strain should be
sown about the beginning of March in three-inch pots, among
sandy soil and leaf-mould, and placed in a gentle heat. When
the seedlings are an inch high, all but one should be pulled out,
leaving the best, which should be staked and shifted into
a larger pot as it increases in size, using as compost three
parts sandy loam and one part rotted manure, with a dash of
lime and soot, which sweetens the soil and improves the
colour of the leaves. The plants may be trained as pyramids
by pinching and staking, or in the umbrella form, which is the
most artistic, and is performed as follows :—The plants should
be placed in the greenhouse and grown with a single stem to
the height of two feet, preserving the leaves, but removing

go

MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 115

all side-shoots as they appear, except three at the top, which
form the foundation of the specimen. A stout stake should
be placed beside the stem, and two strong wires, each 21 feet
long, stretched at right angles across the top, with the ends
slightly bent downwards, to which is attached a circular wire,
which forms the outline. Thin wires should then be tied over
the cross ones, to forma trellis. The shoots should be stopped,
tied down, and all flowers removed until within a month of
the time the plants are wanted for exhibition. The points of
merit are: (1.) Size and health of the specimen; (2.) length
and number of the spikes ; (3.) clear colour, and sweet perfume
of flowers.
NARCISSUS.

These popular spring-flowering bulbous plants are divided
into two sections, the Garden and the Polyanthus Narcissus.
The former is distinguished by having one, two, or three
flowers on the spike, while the latter has many, but gene-
ally of a small size. A few of the best Garden varieties are
Empress, Emperor. Horsfieldii, Maximus, Princeps, and Sir
Watkin. Some of the best Polyanthus Narcissus are Bazel-
man Major, Grand Monarch, Her Majesty, Milton, Newton,
and Queen of the Netherlands. Their cultivation is some-
what similar to that recommended for the Hyacinth. The
bulbs for exhibition plants should be carefully selected, by
choosing all of the same size, firmness, and appearance, because
it is of the greatest importance to have all the flowers in a
pot fully developed at one time. From three to six bulbs
should be put into a pot according to its size, among light
turfy loam, sand, and leaf-mould. The pots should be covered
with ashes like the Hyacinth, till they are partially filled
with roots, when they are in a proper state for forcing. The
plants are much benefited by weak liquid manure when they
ave fairly started. The points of merit are: (1.) Size and
texture of the petals; (2.) prominence of the trumpet, the
edges of which should be slightly reflexed; (3.) the colour
clear and rich. If the perianth and trumpet be of different
colours, they should be distinct. In Polyanthus Narcissus, all
other points being equal, the number of flowers on the stem is

the chief point to decide their merits.
H

114 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS.

PELARGONIUM.

When well grown, these form some of the showiest of spring
and early summer exhibition specimens, The varieties are
extremely numerous, but the following dozen includes some of
the best show, fancy, and regal sections :—Achievement, Beauty
of Oxton, Brilliant, Captain Raikes, Dr. Masteis, Exquisite,
Mis. Harrison, Mrs. Mathers, Penelope, Queen Victoria,
Triumph, and Volonté Nationale alba. They grow well in
three parts of fibry loam to one of leaf-mould, with a sprink-
ling of decayed manure, bone-meal, wood-ashes, and sand,
using a little coarse silver sand for the weak-growing varieties.
An airy place near the glass in the greenhouse is the best for
them, and the growth should be tied out and pinched, so as to
furnish the plant all over with shoots of equal length and
strength. They should be regularly fed with various kinds
of liquid manure previous to flowering, and fumigated often
to keep down greenfly. After flowering, the plants should
be placed in the open air, and kept moderately dry, to ripen
them. They should then be cut close down, watered, and
placed in a close frame, to start them about half an inch,
when they should be re-potted, and air given freely to promote
sturdy growth, to ower the following spring. The points of
merit ave: (1.) Size, form, and condition of the plant ; (2.) size,
quality, and quantity of the flowers.

PETUNIA.

This is a very showy plant when well cultivated, and is
admirably suited, from its character and habit of growth,
for growing into a shapely exhibition specimen. Some of
the best double and single varieties are Arlequin, Derviche,
Louis Ratisbonne, Mare Alban, Panama, and Phebe. To
obtain fine plants with large flowers, they must be young, as
old plants very soon lose their freshness and size of flower.
They grow very rapidly, and cuttings early rooted may be
grown into good plants the same season, but summer cuttings
grown into stubby plants before winter make the best plants
for autumn shows. After the cuttings are well rooted, they
should be potted in light rich soil with leaf-mould and sharp

MISVELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 115

sand. ‘They should be set near the glass, and kept moving
during winter. In early spring the plants should be re-
potted, and afterwards shifted on as they require it, using
richer soil, and feeding the roots as the soil becomes exhausted.
The shoots should be pinched until suticient are obtained to
make a full specimen. Instead of staking, they should be
trained over wires fixed outside the pot, in the same manner
as the Pelargonium. Near the glass, in a cold frame, is the
best place to grow them in summer, and if they are regularly
pinched and watered with liquid manure twice a week, excel-
lent specimens should be the result. The shoots should be
tied in, and all flowers pinched off till within three weeks of
the time the plants are wanted in flower. The points of
merit are: (1.) Size, form, and health of the plant; (2.) size
and number of flowers; and (3.) quality, and colour; the
petals being thick and of good texture, and the colours bright
or pure.

POLYANTHUS,

A pretty and interesting class of florists’ fowers, originating
probably from a cross between the Cowslip and the Primrose.
To grow them well in pots for exhibition, they require the
protection of a frame, and to be treated otherwise much in
the same way as the Auricula. They should be potted in
August, shaking the soil carefully away from the roots, and
cutting off all signs of rot or decay, to which they are often
liable. Any that do not need re-potting should be top-dressed
in February with good rich loam, leaf-mould, and dry well-
rotted manure. When newly potted, keep the frame close for
a few days until the roots run through the soil and the plants
begin to grow, when the sashes may be gradually removed
and the plants be fully exposed to the light and air, The
frame should be constructed to allow a free current of air to
play over the plants even when the sashes are on, except
during severe frost. Water should be carefully given at all
times, but particularly in winter, sufficient being given to
saturate the soil, and no more, until it is really required,
taking care that the plants are not allowed to flag, and that

116 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS.

no water falls into the hearts of them to induce disease.
The plants may be divided when shifted in August to increase
the stock, but excellent varieties are easily raised from seed,
which are often as fine in quality as named ones, and are much
less liable to go off suddenly with rot, so that they are preferable.

The properties of a show Polyanthus resemble very much
those of the Auricula, with the difference in the colour and
markings. The tube should be short and well filled with
anthers ; the eye should be round, of a bright clear yellow,
and distinct from the ground, which should be shaded light
to dark crimson with a stripe in the centre of each limb from
the edge to the eye, where it should end in a fine point. The
edging should be gold-lace, clear and distinct, and of the same
colour as the eye and strips. The pips should be large, flat,
and round.

PRIMULA.

The Chinese Primrose, P. sinensis, and P. obconica are two
of the most useful of spring flowering plants. The shades of
colour and size of flowers in the varieties now introduced are
exceedingly pretty, and when exhibited en masse have a charm-
ing effect. For flowering in spring, the seed should be sown
in the previous June in pans of leaf-mould and sand, covering
with the latter, and plunging in a temperature of 55° to 60°.
When the seedlings appear, set the pans near the glass and
shade from strong sun, and when large enough, prick them off
into small pots, using the same compost. When the plants
are a fair size and the pots full of roots, they should be finally
shifted into six-inch pots for flowering, using as compost one
half sandy loam, the remainder leaf-mould, dry sheep or cow
manure, and sharp sand, well mixed and used in a fine state.
Tie the plants to short stakes to keep them steady, and after
they start to grow a cool frame suits them best till September,
when they require to be placed in a greenhouse. Keep the
plants moderately dry and the flowers pinched out during
winter. In early spring they should be encouraged to grow
vigorously with weak liquid manure, increasing its strength
as the time for flowering approaches. The flowers should be

MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 117

allowed to expand about a month before the show, and no
effort spared to have the plants in full bloom by the end of
that time. Primula obconica is a continuous bloomer, and
is much easier had in perfection under similar treatment than its
companion. The points of merit are: (1.) The size and condition
of the plant; (2.) size and symmetry of the heads of bloom ;
and (3.) the flowers fully expanded, and the petals of good
colour, form, and substance.

RHODODENDRON.

This is an extensive genus of useful showy flowering shrubs,
which, according to their different characteristics, form dis-
tinct groups. There are many beautiful shades of colour among
their flowers, and most of them can be freely forced. The
following are among the best hardy kinds suitable for exhi-
bition specimens :—Austin Layard, Catawbiense, and its varie-
ties, Frederick Waterer, Gloire de Gandavensis, Lord John
Russell, Maculatum, Nobleanum, Precox and its varieties,
Robert Marnock, Sir William Armstrong, William Austin, and
William Ewart Gladstone. Hardy Rhododendrons may be
cultivated in pots specially for forcing, or they may be planted
on a border made up of sandy peat, leaf-mould, and well-rotted
manure. They are more easily kept ina good healthy condition
in this manner than when confined in pots. They can be lifted
for forcing with good balls, and potted without receiving a
check in the operation. They should be potted in the same
soil as that in which they are grown, and forced in the same
manner as recommended for Azalea. The points of merit are:
(1.) Size and health of the plant ; (2.) freshness and quantity
of flower; and (3.) colour, size, and substance of petals.

RICHARDIA.

The popular Lily of the Nile is a valuable decorative plant,
and also makes a grand specimen for exhibition. To produce
a large specimen quickly, a number of roots should be put
together in a twelve-inch pot among rough sandy loam, peat,
and pieces of charcoal. The plants should be placed in the
greenhouse, supplied with plenty of water, and well fed with

118 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS.

liquid manure. They bear forcing well, and can be had in
full ower at any date in spring and early summer. The
points of merit are: (1.) Size and health of the specimen ;
(2.) size, number, and purity of the flowers.

ROSE.

The Rose, the Queen of Flowers, is always appreciated, but
more especially after the dull winter months, and its culture
in pots for exhibition specimens should be more practised than
it is, All the different sections may be forced with fair
success ; but the Teas, with all their beauty and fragrance,
are most highly valued, and most amenable to the influence
of artificial heat. Some of the best tea-roses are Beauté de
la Europe, Catherine Mermet, Duchess of Edinburgh, Etoile
de Lyon, Madame Bravy, Madame Jules Margottin, Madame
Sertot, Marie Guillot, Marie Van Houtte, Perle des Jardins,
Reine Marie Henriette, and Souvenir d’un Ami. And of
Hybrid Perpetual Roses: Abel Carritre, A. K. Williams,
Alfred Colomb, Baroness Rothschild, Camille Bernardin,
Charles Lefebvre, Dean of Windsor, Duke of Teck, Grandeur
Lyonnaise, Marie Baumann, Pride of Waltham, and Souvenir
de Madame Berthier. To produce large specimens for exhibi-
tion, a preliminary course of culture extending over several
years is necessary, which, in many cases, is too long to wait,
and therefore large healthy plants should be lifted in spring,
pruned, and potted in twelve-inch pots among rich marly
loam, sand, and rotted manure. They should be grown in
a cool house, and be carefully watered and attended to other-
wise, thinning the growth if crowded, and keeping the shoots
free from insects and mildew. The weak-growing varieties
should be on the brier or Manetti stock, while the strong-
growers do well on their own roots. Previous to starting,
tea-roses should be pruned in moderately, and the pots top-
dressed with marly loam, well-rotted manure, and bone-meal.
A night temperature of 50° is sufficient to start with, but
should be increased to 60°, with a corresponding rise in day
temperature, as the plants advance in growth. Plenty of air
should be given in favourable weather, and weak liquid manure

MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 119

supplied until the buds begin to open. The plants should be
neatly staked out in bush form, keeping the stakes well hidden,
the foliage free, and the flowers standing boldly out. Hybrid
Perpetual Roses require the same treatment as the Teas,
except that they should be pruned closer, and the shoots tied
out and kept in position without stakes. The points of merit
are: (1.) Size and health of the plant ; (2.) number and quality
of the flowers; and (3.) richness and purity of colour and
fragrance of blooms.
SPIRAA.

This is a hardy and extremely useful tribe of plants for
decorative purposes, of which S. japonica and S. palmata make
beautiful specimens for exhibition, the feathery flowers of the
first being pure white, and of the second crimson. They are
easily forced, especially the former, and can be had in flower
for several months. Strong well-prepared specimens may be
lifted from the open ground and potted in rich loam, leaf-
mould, and sand, and placed in a forcing-pit. When the
spikes appear, the plants should be removed to a greenhouse
and supplied with weak liquid manure. When done flowering,
the plants may be broken up, and should be planted in a rich
open border, where they should remain for two years to pre-
pare them for being again lifted and forced for exhibition.
The points of merit are: (1.) Size and condition of the plant ;
(2.) size, number, and freshness of the flower-spikes.

TULIP.

These bulbous plants are divided into several sections, viz.,
Early, Late, Double, and Single Tulips. The following are
some of the best for pot culture and exhibition :—Double
Flowered : Blanch Hative, Clothilde, Kaiser Wilhelm, Premier
Gladstone, Rosa Bonheur, Violet Superior. Single Flowers :
Catafalque, Cerise Blanche, Comte de Nassau, Grand Monarch,
La Superb, and Marie Theresa. They succeed well under the
same treatment as the Hyacinth, and should be freely fed
with liquid manure when the pots are filled with roots, to
bring the flowers to the highest state of perfection ; but when

120 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS.

the flowers begin to open, clear water only should be given.
They should be neatly staked and slightly shaded, to preserve
the colour and freshness of the blooms. The points of merit
are: (1.) Size, equality, and form of the flowers ; (2.) arrange-
ment and brightness of the colours, which should not run into
each other, the petals being similarly marked, or if of one colour,
it should be pure and constant ; and (3.) double flowers should
be large and full, the petals regular, and of good size and
substance,
GROUPS OF PLANTS.

These form an important feature in a flower-show, and if
the plants have been selected with discrimination and are
tastefully arranged, they never fail to command the attention
and favourable comment of the public. In considering the
selection of the best plants and their arrangement to the best
effect in a group on a stand or table 20 feet long by 7 feet
wide, a commencement should be made with three leading
plants of graceful form, standing well over the main body of
the group, and arranged along the centre, say a well-coloured
Croton of elegant habit in the middle, and about five feet off,
towards each end, a graceful specimen of Cocos Weddelliana
or other palm; or a palm, say Phientx rupicola, may be the
middle plant, supported by two Crotons or two fine specimens
of Draceenas towards the ends. A groundwork should next
be formed of dwarf ferns—Adiantum cuneatuim in small pots
is among the best—arranged to cover the stand and effectually
conceal the pots of the other plants. The prominent plants
should then be placed in position with all the judgment and
taste possible, regulating their height Above the groundwork in
such a manner as to display the specimens to the best advantage.
A choice selection of Alocasias, Anthuriums, Crotons, Dra-
cenas, Marantas, Palms, Pitcher Plants, and such like, with
ornamental and highly coloured foliage, should be freely inter-
spersed with the choicest specimens in flower of Amaryllis,
Azaleas, HKucharis, Geraniums, Fuchsias, Liliums, Orchids,
and the like. After the main features have been arranged in
a light and elegant manner, the edge of the table should be
treated in the same way, using both flowering and foliage

MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 121

plants of a dwarfer habit, and finishing off with nice plants
of Ficus repens, Fittonia, variegated Panicum, and Selagi-
nellas, interspersed with drooping Fuchsias, Lobelias, Thun-
bergia alata, and the like, all set at regular distances, and
drooping tastefully over the edge. The table should be well
balanced without being too formal. The prominent plants
should be in perfect condition, and so thinly set that the eye
can clearly trace their outlines. Crowding should be strictly
avoided, as a free open airy arrangement is in better taste, and
most highly appreciated. The chief conditions to be taken into
consideration are the cultural merits and high quality of the
specimens, and the harmonious combination of the whole group.

The judging of tables for ‘effective arrangement” is not
easily described in a satisfactory manner, because it is chiefly
a matter of taste, which varies with the individual. Some
appreciate bold contrasts, others prefer mellow tones; but
what is graceful and handsome is approved by all. A minia-
ture of a tropical forest with the feathery palm and slender
grasses shooting out from an undulating surface of moss and
fern, is a good basis to work upon, with clumps of bright-
coloured foliage and flowering plants tastefully scattered about,
and orchids peeping from among the branches or suspended
in as natural a way as possible on the taller plants, making
a very pleasing and attractive scene, and, when done with
skill and good taste, goes a long way to secure high honours.
Whatever idea or design is employed for such a display of
taste, the plants used should always be appropriate, and
perfect in leaf and flower, each occupying its proper space,
without the formality of one exactly the same being placed
in a corresponding position. The arrangement should be
rounded off and subdued in such a manner that the eye
may not be particularly attracted to any one part, but that
it may wander with delight and satisfaction over the whole.

GENERAL REMARKS.
In concluding our remarks on exhibition plants, a few useful
hints may be given on the cleaning, training, packing, and
other points, of which the beginner often feels the need of

.

122 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS.

information upon. ‘The exhibitor must always remember that
flowering plants are in their very best condition for compe-
tition when the first flush of flowers is fully expanded, and
every effort should be made to secure that desirable point.
They can be retarded by keeping them cool and shaded, as
much as can be safely done without injury to the flowers; or
when they are late, they may be forwarded by a judicious
amount of extra heat.

Geraniums, Heaths, and all kinds of plants, and especially
climbers, that require to be trained into shape, should be
manipulated in sufficient time before the show to allow the
leaves and points of the shoots to assume a natural position.
Preparatory to exhibition, all foliage that will bear it should
be carefully sponged over with a weak solution of soft soap
and tepid water, to remove every speck of dirt; at the same
time cutting out all discoloured and decaying leaves. Staking
and tying should be done as neatly as possible. and no more
of either employed than is actually necessary.

Foliage plants with single stems, such as Dracenas, Palms,
and Cycads, and also Tree-Ferns, should have all their leaves
laid evenly up to the centre, covered with tissue-paper, and
carefully tied to a strong stake, with wads of cotton-woel
inserted to prevent rubbing, to prepare them for safe transit
to the exhibition. Tender flowering plants, such as Orchids,
and stove plants generally, should have the flower-stem covered
with cotton-wool and tissue-paper, and the separate flowers
properly packed in the same material, finishing off by envelop-
ing the whole truss in paper neatly tied with soft matting.
Ferns should have the outside fronds laid up to the centre
ones, and a breadth of soft cloth run round the plants, bring-
ing it over the top, forming a protection to the tender fronds.
When packing to travel by road or rail, soft meadow-hay is
the best material to put round and below the pots, being
careful to economise space by packing the smaller amongst
the larger plants, placing them so that the leaves will not rub
against anything.

Some exhibitors think their object is accomplished when
the prize is won, and do not bestow much care in the removal

MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS. 123

of the plants from the exhibition, This careless method must
be emphatically condemned, because any defect in packing
and conveyance tells on the plants and on future success, and
as much care and trouble should be bestowed on the removal
of plants from an exhibition as will ensure their safe return
to their home.

Where there ix proper accommodation for growing exhibi-
tion plants, every specimen should have room to fully develop.
It is a good practice to group the various kinds according to
the treatment that suits them best. Crotons should be grown
where they can get most light, with provision for slight shad-
ing during extreme heat. Ferns, again, should be kept in
the shade and never syringed overhead, but moisture should
be kept constantly amongst them by evaporation from damp-
ing the stages and paths. Filmy ferns, however, should be
regularly “ dewed” overhead with the syringe. All plants
should be examined at least once every day to see if water
is required at the roots. This operation is best performed in
the afternoon in summer, and in the morning in winter.
Careful attention should be paid to giving proper ventilation
at all seasons. The admission of air by the bottom ventilators
alone to all the hottest houses prevents the too rapid escape
of moisture, which would leave the atmosphere parched and
dry and quite unsuitable for growing many exotic plants.
The ventilators should be large enough to admit the necessary
amount of air, combined with shading, to keep the temperature
within the prescribed limits. During the time of cold winds
in spring, ventilation should be confined to the sunny side of
the house, closing early in the afternoon to economise heat,
and at the same time thoroughly damping paths and stages.

It is a good plan to syringe such plants as Crotons with a
solution of two ounces of soft soap to the gallon of water,
applying it as hot as it can be used with comfort. This
practice serves to keep insect pests in check ; but when plants
are badly infested, a wine-glassful of paraftin should be added
to each gallon while the liquid is boiling, and allow it to
cool down to a safe temperature before proceeding to use it,
Another method is to add the paraffin to the soap and water,

124 MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITION PLANTS.

and then syringing alternately into the pail and on to the
plant requiring to be cleaned. The higher the temperature
at which the soap, water, and paraffin are mixed the better
they amalgamate ; hence they should be mixed at a tempera-
ture as near as possible to the boiling-point.

A solution of one part of soft soap to eight parts of water
“takes” paraffin freely at or near the boiling-point, and
forms the basis of the best insecticide. When properly used,
paraffin is the best material for cleaning plants from all dirt
and insect pests at an infinitesimal cost. It should, however,
be always used with caution, and never applied recklessly or
indiscriminately to all plants alike. It should not be used on
delicate ferns or on tender young growths, as it is liable to
injure them even with the most careful manipulation ; but on
such smooth-leaved and robust plants as Crotons, Dracenas,
Gardenias, Palms, Stephanotis, and such like, which are so
liable to the attacks of mealy-bug and scale, it may be applied
with perfect freedom and with the best results. Repeated
applications, at a strength of one gill of paraffin in the gallon
of liquid, will eradicate the most inveterate of plant insect
pests. In applying it to Azaleas and all downy-leaved plants,
a very weak solution must be used, about a quarter of a
gill of paraffin to the gallon, repeating the application till the
plants are clean.

Most kinds of plants are best as well as more easily moved
to and from an exhibition, when firmly potted in pots of a
comparatively small size. A proper application of artificial
and liquid manures will grow them to perfection in such pots,
in which, as a rule, plants flower more profusely, and the
foliage assumes a richer and deeper colour and more beautiful
tints.

Soil, and all the materials for potting, should always be got
ready some time before they are required for use, and kept
stored in separate bunks in the potting-house, so that they
may be at hand when wanted, and in the best mellow and
warm condition,

DIVISION II.

CUT FLOWERS.

Tuis is an important part of all horticultural exhibitions, and
forms a centre of great attraction to visitors generally, while
the florists’ flowers are a source of unmeasured enthusiasm
on the part of the amateur, who enters with the keenest zest
into competition with his rivals in this interesting section.
Immense improvements have been developed in recent times
among the beautiful subjects comprised in this division, parti-
cularly in some of the florists’ flowers classes, in which there
has been a marked advance im the size and shape of the flowers,
substance of petal, richness and variety of colour, and all other
points that go to constitute a perfect bloom. It is not neces-
sary, however, to dwell at length on the advances made by
the various sections of cut flowers, and only a selection of the
best varieties of each genus is given under their respective
popular titles in the following descriptions.

ANNUALS,

Collections of the flowers of annuals have become very
popular at autumn flower-shows, and when they are tastefully
set up in proper-sized bunches they inake an effective dis-
play. They are divided into two classes, half-hardy and hardy
annuals. Some of the most showy of both classes, however,
are useless for exhibition, as they fade within a short time
after they are gathered.

HALF-HARDY ANNUALS.

These include the following beautiful species and varie-

ties suitable for exhibition :—<dAlonsou Warscewiczti, Calliopsis
125

126 CUT FLOWERS.

chinensis, Gaillardia picta Lorenziana, Tugetes erecta; German
Asters, varieties; Marigold, French and African; Petunia,
varieties ; Phlox Drummondi, varieties ; Rhodanthe, varieties ;
Salpiglossis, varieties ; Matthiola (stocks), varieties ; Tropso-
lum, varieties; and Zinnia, varieties. The seed should be
sown in February or March in pans of light sandy soil and
leaf-mould, and placed in a temperature of 55° to 60°. The
seedlings should be pricked out as soon as they can be handled,
and afterwards be carefully hardened off for planting out in
May and June.

HARDY ANNUALS.

Many species of these are so rich in varieties of merit that
it is scarcely possible to name a selection of them that would
prove to be the finest in every season. The following dozen
species, however, with their varieties, form a collection to
be depended upon :—Culendula officinalis, Calliopsis tinctoria,
Chrysanthemum tricolor, Clarkia pulchella, Eschscholtzia calt-
Sfornica, Godetia elegans, Iberis umbellatus, Lathyrus odoratus,
Lupinus nanus, and other species ; Nigella damascena ; Papaver,
several species and varieties.

The culture of hardy annuals under ordinary circumstances
is a simple matter, as they grow freely in any vich soil of an
open texture. They may be sown any time from the middle
of February till the end of May, according to the state of the
weather and the date at which it is desired to have them
in perfection for exhibition. From twelve to fourteen weeks
should be allowed in ordinary seasons between the time of
sowing and the date of the show. As a rule, it is best to
make two or three separate sowings, at intervals of eight
days, so as to have them in perfection at a given date. Small
seeds (Mignonette) should be covered to a depth of about
twice their own diameter, larger seeds (Candytuft) three or
four times their diameter, and for large seeds (Sweet Peas)
from one to two inches is the proper depth. As soon as
the young plants are large enough to handle, they must be
well thinned out, to admit light and air among them, which
promotes strong sturdy growth and well-developed flowers.

CUT FLOWERS. 127

If the flowers are likely to come too early, a slight shading
will vetard them, but it must be cautiously done, so as not to
draw the growth or spoil the colour of the flowers. In dry
weather copious waterings are required to keep the plants
fresh and vigorous, and a dose of weak liquid manure occa-
sionally is beneficial. For competition, the flowers should be
cut early in the morning, and with as long stalks as possible,
so that they may last the longer, and be set up effectively.
The bunches should be made up as light and free as possible,
to show every spike and flower clearly. In most cases a single
colour (one variety) will be found most effective; while in
others several colours (varieties of one species), when properly
combined, will produce the most charming effect. The points
of merit in annuals are: (1.) Freshness and tasteful arrange-
ment of the bunches; (2.) size and texture of the blooms ;
and (3.) brillianey and purity of the colours.

ANTIRRHINUM.

This forms a prominent object at many local flower-shows
in the autumn months, and is a special favourite in the cottage-
garden. Among the best are Anson Shiel, Agnes, Cleopatra,
Favourite, Henry Wood, and The Bard. To obtain exhibition
specimens the plants should be raised from cuttings annually.
Select stubby, short-jointed shoots early in the autumn, and
insert them in sand and leaf-mould, placing them in a cold
frame near the glass, and in such a position as not to require
shading. By April they will be well rooted, and should then
be planted out two feet apart on ground that has been well
pulverised, manured, and specially prepared for them. Keep
clean from weeds, and reduce the number of shoots if too
many are produced. Stake them when necessary. Mulch and
water in hot dry weather. The points of merit are: (1.) Num-
ber of flowers and size of spike; (2.) size and texture of the
tube, the lip of which should be well extended to show the
throat ; and (3.) the colour clear, the markings well defined,
and the stripes distinct, well contrasted, and regular. The
selfs should be pure, and of a decided colour.

128 CUT FLOWERS.

ASTER.

Two classes are generally provided for exhibiting the China
(or German) Asters: (1.) Chrysanthemum-flowered, and (2.)
Quilled. The former includes all those with flat florets, and the
latter the varieties with quilled florets. Seed of the best
strains should be sown in mild heat during April, in sandy
soil and leaf-mould, and the seedlings pricked into boxes four
inches apart, shaded for a time, and afterwards removed to a
position near the glass in a cold frame. It is of importance
that the plants receive no check from cold, crowding, or want
of water, but that. they should be strong, dwarf, and healthy
for planting out in the end of May, or beginning of June.
The ground on which they are to grow should be rich, and a
little lime and soot forked into the surface previous to planting.
Plant in rows two feet apart, and from one to two feet, according
to the varieties, between the plants. They should be watered
in dry weather and well fed, to produce large, fine flowers.
The points of merit are: (1.) Size, form, and freshness of
flowers; (2.) smoothness of outline and regularity of the
petals ; and (3.) colour, which should be pure or bright. The
Quilled should be round and full, and the florets equal, regu-
lar, and free from coarseness.

CAMELLIA.

The Camellia as a cut bloom, although slightly lacking in
gracefulness, has a chaste beauty and symmetry of form pecu-
liarly its own. Some of the best varieties for exhibition are
Adriana, Alba plena, Carlotta Papudoff, Comtesse, Lavinia
Maggi, Cup of Beauty, Fimbriata, Lady Hume’s Blush,
Mathotiana, Princess Marie, Reine des Beautés, Targioni,
and Thomas Moore. For the cultivation of the Camellia see
‘‘ Camellia’ in the First Division. The points of merit are;
(1.) Size and form of blooms; (2.) arrangement and texture
of the petals; and (3.) colour: if white, it should be pure;
if coloured, dense and bright; if streaked, the colours should
be distinct.

CUT FLOWERs. 129

CARNATION,

The flowers of the Carnation are much admired for their
beauty, perfume, and general usefulness in decorative work,
and when well grown make a beautiful stand for exhibition.
A few of the best for competition are Admiral Curzon, Flo-
rence Nightingale, Germania, Henry Cannell, James Douglas,
Matador, Mr. Frederick William Bacon, Robert Halgrave, Rob
Roy, Sarah Payne, Sybil, and William Skirving. For pot cul-
ture the plants should be potted in five-inch pots in October in
sandy loam and leaf-mould, placed in a cold frame, and kept
close and shaded till the new roots have started to grow. Air
should then be gradually given, until the light can be with-
drawn altogether, except during heavy rain and frost. During
February they should be shifted into ten-inch pots for bloom-
ing, giving plenty of drainage, and using the same soil, with
the addition of some old manure well rubbed down, replacing
them in the cold frame, where they should remain until May.
As the flower-stems shoot upwards they should be loosely tied
to stakes, and as soon as the buds can be detected the best
should be carefully preserved, and three only left on a plant.
Weak liquid manure, made from soot and sheep-droppings,
should now be given twice a week, which will cause the buds
to swell and give a dark healthy hue to the foliage. As the
flowers expand they should be slightly shaded, in order to pre-
serve them; but this should not be overdone, else the colours
will not be so bright. Carnations are also successfully culti-
vated in beds, but so much depends on external circumstances
that this system cannot always be relied upon ; and to ensure
fine blooms, at least in northern parts, a number must be
grown in pots. The points of merit are: (1.) Size and form ;
(2.) distinctness in the markings and colour; and (3.) sub-
stance of the petals and regularity in their disposition.

I

130 CUT FLOWERS.

CHRYSANTHEMUM.

This flower stands higher in public estimation at the pre-
sent time than probably any other in cultivation. The great
improvement in form and colour, especially in the Japanese
varieties, and the perfection to which cultivation has brought
them, have no doubt been the means of raising them to their
present popular eminence. Their culture engages the atten-
tion of a large number of horticulturists, but, even with all
the knowledge at their command, comparatively few approach
the ideal of perfection; and in treating of this subject we
have endeavoured to point out the best known methods of
obtaining good plants and perfect blooms, A selection of the
best varieties for exhibition, as cut flowers, includes the fol-
ing :—

/ncurved.—Alfred Salter, Barbara, Empress of India, Jeanne d’ Arc,
Golden Empress, J. Lambert, Lord Alcester, Miss M. H.
Haggis, Mrs. Heale, Princess of Wales, Queen of England,
and Violet Tomlin.

Japanese.—Avalanche, Boule d’Or, Carew Underwood, Edwin Moly-
neux, Etoile de Lyon, Jeanne Delaux, Madame C. Audiguier,
Malle. Lacroix, Meg Merrilees, Ralph Brocklebank, Sunflower,
Val d’Andorre, Viviand Morrel, and W. H. Lincoln.

Refleced.—Annie Salter, Alice Bird, Chevalier Domage, Culling-
fordii, Dr. Sharpe, Golden Christine, King of Crimsons, Mrs.
Forsyth, Pink Christine, Peach Christine, and Purple King.

Anemones.—Acquisition, Fabian de Mediana, Fleur de Marie, Georges
Sand, Gluck, Lady Margaret, Mdme. Theresa Clos, Malle.
Cabrol, Miss Annie Lowe, Mrs. Pethers, Prince of Anemones,
and Sceur Dorothée Souillé.

The culture of the Chrysanthemum is given in the First
Division, and it is only necessary here to notice the special
treatment required for the production of extra-large speci-
men blooms for exhibition as cut flowers. To attain this,
strong, firm, healthy plants should be potted singly in eight-
inch pots, giving the strong-growers one size larger, and
using the same compost as has been recommended for bush

CUT FLOWERS. 131

plants. About the end of May the plants can be set in the
open air, in rows at convenient distances apart, with strong
posts fixed at the ends and wires stretched between them,
to which the stakes supporting the plants should be firmly
secured. Watering must be carefully attended to daily, giving
it copiously where needed, and sprinkling the plants and
ground between them late in the afternoon of dry warm
days.

Taking the Buds——Sometimes buds appear prematurely,
when the top should be pinched off at a good leaf, from which
fresh growth will be made, producing buds that will come
in at the right time. Certain varieties require special treat-
ment for the timing of the buds, such as the Rundle family,
as representing the early varieties. These should be pinched
from the middle to the end of May, which throws the first
break into the end of June or beginning of July. The later
varieties should be pinched between the last week in May and
the middle of June, some allowance being made for the locality
where the plants are grown. Cutting hard down is recom-
mended at this time by some growers, but we see no advan-
tage from this process further than reducing the height of
the plants, which should not be considered by those growing
for exhibition blooms, as the best have been and are obtained
from plants which have been allowed to grow to their full
height or to the crown buds. Regular attention should be
given to tying the plants and rubbing out all side-shoots
except the three leading ones produced at the first break,
which takes place in June. The term “first break” is de-
rived from a particular stage of the plant’s growth. If the
cutting has been rooted at the proper time and allowed to
grow naturally with a single stem, a flower-bud will appear
about the end of May or in June, the time varying with the
variety and locality where it is grown. Immediately under
this bud a number of small shoots will spring, three of which
should be allowed to grow and the others rubbed off. During
the month of August a bud will be formed on each of these
shoots, which is termed the “crown bud.’’ Shoots will also
start below this bud, and they must be rubbed off as they

132 CUT FLOWERS.

appear. Should the crown bud, however, show too early,
it should be promptly pinched out, and one of these shoots
retained, and encouraged to grow as fast as possible. On
it the second crown or ‘‘terminal bud” will soon appear, and
must be “taken,” or preserved, with every care, as it gives
the bloom for exhibition. All other flower-buds must be
ruthlessly rubbed off as soon as they appear, and so must all
young shoots that may start from the stem. A little prac-
tice enables the operator to take the buds deftly, without
injury to the chosen bud or to the stem on which it grows,
and the best time to do it is in the early morning, or in the
evening when the dew is on them. The crown bud is usually
found the best for exhibition, and should be chosen when well
timed. If the buds of late varieties are fit to be taken in the
second week of August, it is the best time for them. The
mid-season varieties come in best if taken from the middle
to the end of August. The first fortnight in September is
the most suitable time to take the early varieties. The
flowers from the terminal bud are generally smaller and
neater than from the crown bud, and should be chosen for
certain varieties in both the Incurved and Japanese classes,
which varieties should be observed and noted in regular
practice. The largest flowers are obtained from plants with
a single stem, and the first crown bud on the top of it.
The plants should be gone over twice a week, to regulate
the growth and carefully remove all useless side-shoots and
suckers.

Mildew and Insects.—A constant watch requires to be kept
for the first sign of mildew appearing on the plants, and at once
dust the parts affected with flowers of sulphur. Aphides are
also an insidious pest, and should be promptly kept in check by
dusting the shoots on which they appear with tobacco powder.
In some seasons earwigs are a troublesome nuisance, and they
must be diligently watched and trapped whenever they appear ;
the hollow stalks of broad beans forming excellent traps when
cut into lengths of 6 to 8 inches and placed among the plants
and pots. They should be carefully examined daily, and the
earwigs lodging in them are easily shaken or blown out into a

CUT FLOWERS, 133

pail of hot water, Before housing the plants, it is a good plan
to give them a thorough syringing with a mixture of two
pounds of flowers of sulphur and one pound of soft soap to
twenty gallons of water; and after they are housed they ought
to receive a thorough fumigation, not too strong at one time,
but repeating it on several nights in succession, which will
clean them of aphides. When the leaf-mining grub is noticed
to be at work, by the pale grey or brown spots and streaks on
the leaves, these should be at once pressed between the finger
and thumb to kill the grubs, or if only a few leaves are
attacked, they should be picked off and burned.

Housing the Plants.—Some forethought is required here to
arrange the plants as far as possible to get them into flower at
the proper time. The end of September is the best time to
house the late varieties, leaving the early ones out for a week
or ten days longer, according to the weather. Those wanted
forward should be set in the warm end, and others too forward
in the cool end of the house. In order that the sudden change
from the open air to a close atmosphere may be felt as little as
possible, the house should be kept slightly moist at night, with
a free circulation of air about the plants until they get inured
to the changed conditions. When the buds begin to open, a
drier atmosphere should be maintained, and fire-heat may
be used if necessary for this purpose. Feeding with liquid
manure should still be continued, but only of moderate
strength, remembering that high feeding and a close moist
atmosphere are the agents which cause much of the damping
of the blooms. A slight shade from strong sunshine should
be given, so as to preserve the colour of the flowers. Artificial
heat must always be cautiously employed in pushing forward
the blooms ; but Japanese varieties are improved by a little,
if it can be applied without risk of having them too forward.
Sudden changes of the atmosphere should be avoided, and no
liquid manure given after the blooms are about two-thirds
expanded. A bloom takes from three to four weeks to develop
itself fully after the opening of the bud, and the grower knows
whether to force or retard the plants to bring the flowers in at
the proper time. After the flowers are full blown, they keep

134 CUT FLOWERS.

fresh for two weeks in a cool house if it is kept moderately dry
and shaded.

Dressing the Blooms.—This is a necessary operation, and is
practised more or less by all successful exhibitors. It consists
in arranging, with suitable instruments, any florets that are
out of place, extracting an eye, and pulling out any rough or
damaged petals. This is best performed by the operator
fastening the flower securely in the cup in which it is to be
exhibited, and then deftly removing the eye and rough petals
with a sharp-pointed knife and a suitable pair of tweezers.
The florets should next be properly manipulated so as to look
as even, neat, and perfect as possible. The Japanese do not
require much dressing, but damaged florets and an eye when
it appears should be removed, after which the bloom should
be turned upside down and gently shaken, which is all it
requires. Anemone-flowered should have badly formed disc
florets taken out, and misplaced ray florets put into position.
Reflexed flowers should also receive the needful dressing by
removing imperfect and notched petals, and arranging the
flower smoothly and shapely. All boards, cups, tubes, and
boxes should be ready when wanted to save hurry at the last
moment.

The chief points of merit are: (1.) Size; (2.) symmetry ;
and (3.) colour. Smoothness of outline and regularity in the
disposition of the petals are imperative qualities in Incurved
and Reflexed blooms. In the Japanese varieties the blooms
should be large, full, and regular in outline, the length,
breadth, and artistic curl in the petals being also important
points in adjudicating on certain varieties.

DAHLIA.

This showy autumn-flowering plant has been long a special
favourite with the florist, who has brought the flowers to a
wonderful state of symmetry and perfection. The Show and
Fancy Dahlias have been rather hard pressed for some years
in public esteem by their beautiful rivals, the Single, Cactus,
and Decorative varieties ; but popular taste is again leaning

CUT FLOWERS. 135

towards the old favourites ; and although they are not so use-
ful for general purposes as the other sections, still they pro-
duce a splendid effect on an exhibition table, and command
the notice and admiration of all true lovers of beauty and
symmetry in flowers. The following selections of Fancy, Show,
and Single varieties, including all colours, are among the best
in their respective classes for the purpose of exhibition :—

Fancy Dahklias.—Annie Richard, Flora Wyatt, George Barnes, Henry
Glascock, James O’Brien, Lottie Eckford, Mrs. A. Holls, Mrs.
Saunders, Polly Sandell, Prince Henry, Professor Fawcett, and
Romeo. *

Show Dahlias.—Alexander Cramond, Clara, Emperor, Goldfinder,
Henry Walton, Herbert Turner, James Huntley, J. N. Keynes,
Julia Wyatt, Mrs. Gladstone, Mrs. Langtry, and Mrs. W. Slack.

Single Dahlias.— Amos Perry, James Kelway, Miss Gladstone,
Miss Maxton, Mrs. Bowman, Mrs. Fergusson, Mrs. H. M.
Stewart, Terra-Cotta, T. 5. Ware, Volunteer, White Paragon,
and William Potter.

The proper cultivation of the Dahlia is of the greatest im-
portance to the exhibitor, and requires a considerable amount
of attention, perseverance, and skill to ensure success.. To
grow it for exhibition, a rather stiff loamy soil, richly manured,
is the best. The ground must be well trenched the previous
winter, at least two spits deep, at the same time giving it a
liberal quantity of thoroughly made manure. About the end
of May it should again be dug or forked over, breaking it well
in the operation. Then lay it out in rows running north and
south, with a distance of four to five feet between each, and
not more than four feet between the plants. Stakes should be
driven into the ground where the plants are to be put, to
which they must be tied as they grow to prevent them being
broken by the wind. In preparing the plants, the roots
should be placed in heat to start about the end of April,
giving them a temperature of 56°, and taking care not to
allow them to get dry, which tends to throw them into pre-
mature bloom. This method of selecting fine plump roots and
starting them with a single stem in preference to cuttings is
adopted by competitors with the utmost success. When the

136 CUT FLOWERS.

shoots have grown about six inches, gradually harden them
off, by admitting more air or by removing to a cooler place,
guarding against any sudden check to the plants, and by the
end of May they may he fully exposed to the open air. The
first week in June is soon enough to plant them out, when all
danger of frost is past. On no occasion should they suffer for
want of water, while liquid manure twice a week will be bene-
ficial. It should be used weak at first, but gradually stronger
as the season advances. The result will be more satisfactory
if the liquid manure is varied thus: farmyard manure at one
watering, sheep-droppings at the next, guano or any other
artificial manure capable of being dissolved at another, and
soon. Three to five shoots is enough to leave on a plant to
obtain the largest and finest blooms. .A stake should be put
to each shoot, and the laterals should be all pinched as they
appear. At this stage a good mulching of decomposed manure
will be of service to the health of the plants, especially if the
weather is dry. About the beginning of August buds will
appear in the points of the leading shoots, the best of which,
or those of good form with full centres, should be selected and
the others pinched off; but if the first flowers are considered
too early, they should be taken off, and lateral shoots trained
up to take their place, which will produce flowers two weeks
later. When the blooms begin to expand, they require protec-
tion, which can be given by fixing a piece of cardboard, to a
stake, and placing it over the bloom. They should be cut
when dry, and properly arranged before leaving for the show.
The points of merit are: (1.) Size; (2.) form; (3.) colour. The
flowers should be round, full in the centre, and not cupped.
The petals of both double and single varieties should be regu-
lar and slightly reflexed, of good substance, and rich and clear
in colour.

DELPHINIUM.

The bold handsome spikes-of this hardy plant are held in
high esteem by many cultivators of florist’s flowers. There
are both single and double varieties, with tints of colour from
light blue to dark purple. Their tall spikes and attractive

CUT FLOWERS. 1387

flowers are very much admired when well shown. - The following
are a few of the best varieties :—Bella Donna, Breckii, Desde-
mona, Mis. Gamp, Prince Albert Victor, and Voltaire. The
cultivation of the Delphinium is similar to that for the Antir-
rhinum, except that it is propagated by division, which is best
performed in spring. Planted on a rich border, the plants
will get thoroughly established the same season, and with a
little attention during summer as to watering and mulching
during dry weather, good spikes will be produced the follow-
ing year. Plants may also be divided early in autumn, and
kept in pots in cold frames through the winter; and if potted
and planted out in March, spikes of fair quality can be ob-
tained from them the same season. The points of merit are:
(1.) Size of spike ; (2.) size and number of expanded flowers ;
and (3.) quality of the flowers, which should be dense in colour,
- of good substance, and the eye distinct.

GERANIUM.

A very showy stand for exhibition is made from a good
selection of Geranium flowers in trusses, and if properly set up
and the colours well arranged, they produce a dazzling effect.
The following are a dozen of the best, including varieties from
each section :—Brilliant, Buffalo Bill, Caliban, Duchess of
Portland, Freya, Gloire de France, Madame Thibaut, Opal,
Rev. Dr. Morris, Silver Queen, Shirley Hibberd, and Charles
Turner. The trusses should be exhibited in triplets, a thin
wire being twisted down the stem, bending it slightly out-
wards to prevent the blooms from crushing. The points of
merit are: (1.) Size and freshness of the trusses; (2.) size of
pips and breadth of petals; and (3.) colour and texture of the
flowers.

GLADIOLUS.

The Gladiolus never fails to be greatly admired at horti-
cultural exhibitions, even by those who have no special know-
ledge of florist’s flowers. Indeed it may be said that a collection
of them, when well set up with most of the flowers expanded,
has nothing to equal it for a gorgeous display in the cut-flower
division. The following are some of the best exhibition varie-

138 CUT FLOWERS.

ties :—Albatross, Albion, Bernard de Jussieu, Imperatrice
Eugenie, Leviathan, Lord Howard, Mont Blanc, Mrs. Derry,
Mrs. Laxton, Sir Percy Herbert, Reine Blanche, and Urania.
The Gladiolus is not so difficult to grow as many other florist’s
flowers, but success will not be attained without considerable
skill and trouble. The ground ought to be trenched in the
autumn, giving at the same time a dressing of well-made
manure. The bulbs are best planted late in March or early
in April. The beds should be formed of four rows about
15 inches apart, and one foot between the bulbs, set three
inches deep. The plants should be carefully staked as they
grow, and a good mulching of manure given in dry weather.
Plenty of water should be supplied to the roots, and also liquid
manure as soon as the flower-buds begin to swell. As they
expand they must be shaded to procure first-rate spikes. The
most effective way to do this is to fix an oblong box with a
glass front to a stout stake, the box being of sufficient length
to contain the whole of the spike. As the lower blooms
expand the glass may be shaded with whitewash, always giving
the unexpanded blooms the full sun. In order to bring late
spikes forward for a show, they should be cut and placed in
bottles of warm water set in a hothouse. Those that are too
early may be cut, and kept in a cool shaded place to retard
them. When the flowers incline backwards, they should be
tied to the front until they are expanded, when they will remain
in that position. In arranging a stand, the spikes should be
set up with their tops slightly bent back and some of the
foliage put around them, which greatly improves their appear-
ance. The points of merit are: (1.) Length of the spike; (2.)
size and number of expanded flowers; (3.) richness of the
colour and distinctness of the marking; and (4.) texture of
the petals, the edges of which should be slightly reflexed to
show the interior of the flower.

GREENHOUSE FLOWERS.
A beautiful and interesting display is produced by a stand
of various kinds of greenhouse flowers, tastefully set up in
bunches, interspersed with a few sprays of graceful foliage.

CUT FLOWERS. 139

The following are some of the best genera, excluding those
provided with a class for themselves, such as Camellia and
Rhododendron :—Abutilon, Azalea, Bouvardia, Choisya, Clivia,
Lapageria, Lisianthus, Lilium, Philesia, Plumbago, Statice, and
Vallota. The cultivation of these is given in the Plant Divi-
sion. In fixing the number of bunches required on a stand
in competition, distinct genera should be clearly specified in
the schedule, else confusion often arises from the introduction
of several species of the same genus, or, worse still, a number
of varieties of the same species. Three or more, according to
size, of the best-flowered shoots should be cut with long stalks,
and wired, if necessary, to keep them in position. They should
be lightly and tastefully arranged, using the foliage of each
kind where possible with the flowers. The points of merit
are: (1.) Arrangement ; (2.) quality of the flowers; and (3.)
freshness of the flowers and foliage.

HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS.

The popular taste has greatly revived in recent years for
this useful class of hardy flowering plants, and their cultiva-
tion is rapidly extending as their excellent merits become
better known. In the schedules of flower-shows they are
generally stipulated to be exhibited as ‘“ spikes,” practically
excluding all other forms, and limiting the choice to flowers
produced on spikes. This condition ought always to be modi-
fied so as to admit all forms of inflorescence—spike, raceme,
umbel, corymb, fascicle, panicle, or cyme—by stipulating for so
many “Single Stems in Flower of Hardy Herbaceous Peren-
nial Plants.” Many fine kinds, however, are more effective
when set up in “bunches,” and in such cases a certain number
of stems in each bunch should not be exceeded, so that the
competition may be on equally fair conditions.

Herbaceous plants are of easy cultivation, and will grow
freely in any ordinary garden soil; but in the case of exhi-
bition flowers, they well repay a little extra care and attention
to their particular wants. As a rule, to get the finest exhibition
specimens, the plants require to be divided every few years,

140 CUT FLOWERS.

planting the healthiest roots, or pieces, in fresh soil enriched
with well-rotted manure. In dry weather attention must be
given to watering and mulching them when necessary. The
stems must be carefully staked, and the flowers protected from
wind and rain as soon as they begin to open, so that they may
be preserved in the best possible condition. In growing a
collection for exhibition there is a wide choice of beautiful
kinds, and the following eleven genera may be named as a
good selection :—Anemone japonica alba, Delphinium grandi-
florum plenum, Dictamnus fraxinella, Doronicum columncee,
Gatllardia aristata, G. grandiflora, Inula glandulosa, Orchis
foliosa, Phygelius capensis, Rudbeckia speciosa, Spircea palmata,
and Veratrum nigrum.

The points of merit in herbaceous spikes are: (1.) The size,
vigour, and freshness of the inflorescence ; (2.) size and quality
of the flowers; and (3.) the richness, contrast, and purity of
the colours.

TOLLYHOCK.

This is of a stiffer and more robust character of spike than
the Gladiolus; it also lacks its bright colours and graceful
appearance. It has many votaries, however; and were it not
xo subject to disease, it would be better represented at exhibi-
tions. The following are some of the finest varieties for com-
petition :—Alba Superba, Charles Chater, Czar, F. G. Dougal,
Her Majesty, Jane Wilson, Kerr’s Scarlet, Mrs. Laing, Model,
Pink Perfection, Queen of Buffs, and Queen of Yellows.

Tn the cultivation of the Hollyhock, the soil should be pre-
pared as advised for Dahlias. A position sheltered from the
wind should be chosen, but it must be fully exposed to the sun.
As the Hollyhock is nearly hardy, it may be planted out any
time in spring, while old plants may be left out all winter, with
a slight protection in severe weather. Plants intended for com-
petition should be struck from cuttings, or eyes, in the autumn
and potted on as they require it. They should be grown in
frames, protected only in severe frost, and planted out on the
first favourable opportunity in spring. A liberal supply of
liquid manure when they are growing is very beneficial. As

CUT FLOWERS. 141

the Howers on the lower part of the spike expand, they require
shading, which is done by placing three stakes around the
spike and enclosing it with thin canvas. This gives a longer
spike of fully developed flowers. If wet weather sets in, the
spikes should be so protected as to prevent injury to the
flowers.

The points of merit of spikes are: (1.) Length of spike of
expanded flowers; (2.) size and regularity of flowers, which
should be close set but not overlap; and (3.) the colours rich
and clear. In single blooms the points are: (1.) They should
be round, high in the centre, with the guard petals flat on the
stand ; (2.) quality of petals; and (3.) colour, which should be
rich and clear.

ORCHID.

A stand of spikes or bunches of the finest Orchids, when
properly set up, excels all others in elegance and richness
of colour, and surpasses most kinds in striking appearance.
There ought to be no limit to the exhibitor staging either
a single spike or a bunch of spikes of the same variety, because
the exhibit is meant to be attractive, as well as to show the
results of cultural ability, and to satisfy the curiosity of the
orchidophilist. A single spike of Phalenopsis Schilleriana is
all that could be desired, while a single Cypripedium or Lycaste
on the top of a stem has very little appearance ; but if these
are wired and set up in a bunch, with a backing of green
leaves, the effect is vastly more attractive, and therefore
“ bunches” should be the rule. The following are twelve of
the best genera for this purpose :—Aérides, Cattleya, Caelogyne,
Cypripedium, Dendrobium, Lelia, Lycaste, Masdevallia, Odon-
toglossum, Oneidium, Phalenopsis, and Vanda. The cultural
directions are given in the Plants Division. The value of the
exhibit depends much on the manner of arranging the bunches
and setting up the spikes. The flowers should be carefully
wired, so that the stalks may be bent into any position. They
should be arranged in triangular form, with the flowers facing
the sides as well as the front, and nothing is better than a few
of their own leaves around them ; but if they are not to be

142 CUT FLOWERS.

had, a few fern fronds or asparagus sprays may be used
instead. All leaves on the foot-stalks should be preserved,
as they improve the effect, and although wires are used for
setting up the flowers, the stems should be sufficiently long
to reach the water, to keep the flowers fresh. The points of
merit are: (1.) Arrangement and size of spikes and flowers ;
(2.) quality of the blooms; and (3.) colour, which should be
rich, pure, and the marking well defined.

PANSY.

This is a special favourite with the amateur florist, around
which his keenest interest centres, and its culture for exhibi-
tion is practically in his hands. Although lacking the showy
appearance of some others, such as the Gladiolus and Dablia,
still it has many qualities peculiar to itself, which attract
attention and enlist many horticulturists in its cultivation.
The following are among the finest Fancy and Show Pansies
for exhibition :—

Fancy Pansies,—A. M. Cocker, Bailie Donald, Beauty, David Hen-
derson, John Pope, Lady Wolseley, Lord Rosebery, Maggie Bella,
Miss Bliss, Mrs. John Downie, Neil M‘Kay, and William Hayes.

Show Pansies.—Alexander Black, Countess of Rosebery, Devonia,
John Elder, Lord Frederick Cavendish, Mauve Queen, Miss

Philip, Miss Jessie Foot, Mrs, Gladstone, Mrs. Henderson, Sultan,
and The Favourite.

The Pansy is propagated by cuttings in early autumn,
selecting the shoots springing from the base of the plants,
and inserting them in boxes containing loam, leaf-mould, and
sand in equal proportions, placed in a cold frame and shaded
till roots have been made. The young plants should remain in
the frame till the following spring, when they may be planted
out in March, if early flowers are wanted, otherwise in April,
so that they may be established before the hot weather sets in.
Pansies succeed best in new soil, which makes them less liable
to die off during the hot months of June and July. Any
good garden soil suits them, but a strong moist loam is the
best. It should be well trenched and manured the year pre-
vious to planting, and cropped with potatves, after which it will

CUT FLOWERS. 143

be in good condition for pansies. If exhibition blooms be re-
quired in early summer, a plantation must be made in autumn,
and protected in winter from severe frosts and continued rains
by placing a frame over it, the sashes of which can be moved
at will. Three or four shoots will be sufficient for each plant,
and they should be carefully staked to prevent them being
broken. If flower-buds appear, they must be removed ; three
weeks being the time necessary for the full expansion of the
flower after the bud is seen. Slight shading is necessary for
a few days before the flowers are gathered, shading the blooms
only, which may be done by fastening a piece of cardboard to
a short stake and placing the shade over the bloom. The
plants should be kept well watered in dry weather, both at
the roots and over the tops, while an occasional sprinkling of
soot between the plants before watering will be beneficial.
Weak liquid manure made from cowdung given once a week
will greatly assist the perfect development of the blooms, An
occasional syringing, when the plants are growing, with soap-
suds will prevent greenfly attacking them; but it must be
discontinued when the blooms have been chosen. A light
mulching with short grass prevents evaporation, and keeps
rain from splashing the flowers. The flowers should be care-
fully handled when staging them ; the outer edges of the petals
should be slightly reflexed, and touching the stand, which
should be painted green, and no paper of any colour used
beneath the flowers. The points of merit in a Show Pansy
are: (1.) Size; (2.) form; and (3.) substance. According to
the predominating colour they are divided into three classes,
viz., selfs, white, and yellow grounds. The first comprises
dark, light, and yellow selfs. These should be rich and pure
in colour, with perfect centre. In the white and yellow classes
the ground colour should be bright, clean, and distinct, the eye
uniform and well defined. The Fancy Pansy may be said to
comprise all others which have not the distinctive character-
istics of the Show Pansy. They should be large, circular,
petals full, and overlapping.

144 CUT. FLOWERS,

PENTSTEMON.

The Pentstemon is a general favourite with exhibitors, from
the fact that it is very accommodating, easily grown, and can
be exhibited in good form with very little trouble, provided
that the proper varieties are cultivated. Among the best
for exhibition are Eclipse, F. W. Moor, Mont Blanc, Renown,
T. 8. Ware, and W. E. Gladstone. Their cultivation is exactly
similar to that recommended for Antirrhinum. The points of
merit are: (1.) Size of spike and number of flowers; (2.) size
and texture of the tube, the lip of which should be slightly
extended, and turned back to show the throat ; and (3.) colour,
which should be dense and clear, and the markings well
defined.

PHLOX.

This is a very showy Hower, and when represented by good
varieties, well cultivated, they make a fine display. Some of
the best are Burns, Captain R. Jackson, Earl of Mar, John
Stewart, Miss Lingard, and Panama. The cultivation is
similar to the Antirrhinum. The points of merit are: (1.)
Size of spike and flowers; (2.) form and colour. Selfs should
be pure, of decided colour, the markings uniform, and clearly
defined. ‘

PICOTEE.

A very useful and pretty hardy flower, which is deservedly
popular at exhibitions, Twelve of the best Picotees for
exhibition are Ann Lord, Brunette, Evelyn, Favourite, Hero,
Lady Holmesdale, Mrs. Gordon, Mrs. Sharp, Paulina, Thomas
Williams, William Summers, and Violet Douglas. Their culti-
vation is similar in every respect to that of the Carnation in
the open air. The points of merit are: (1.) Size and form of
the bloom ; (2.) substance and regularity in the disposition of
the petals; (3.) colour, which should be pure and _ bright.
The lacing may be light or heavy, but distinct.

PINK.

This is another of the very useful hardy plants, which should
receive more attention on account of its fragrance and free

CUT FLOWERS. 145

flowering nature. Among the best for exhibition are John
Love, J. Melville, Mrs. Sinkins, Mrs. T. M‘Crorie, Mrs.
Welsh, and Robert Holmes. The cultivation is similar to
the Carnation. The points of merit are: (1.) Size and form
of the flower; (2.) colour and texture of the petals; (3.)
markings, which should be distinct and well defined. If of
one colour, it should be pure and decided.

PYRETHRUM.

«A class of useful hardy herbaceous perennials, which has
been greatly improved in recent years, and become a general
favourite. A stand of well-grown blooms, set up with their own
pretty foliage, almost rivals the best Chrysanthemums. <A
few of the best for exhibition of the double and single varieties
are A. M. Kelway, Aphrodite, Cleopatra, Comet, Duke of
Edinburgh, Chamois, John Holborn, L. Kelway, Magician,
Melton, Model, and Sylphide.

The Pyrethrum is very easily cultivated, growing freely in
any good well-manured garden soil. The ground should be
trenched two feet deep, and the plants put thirty inches apart,
and well watered and mulched in dry weather. Very little is
required until the buds appear, when they should be thinned
out, and the best encouraged to grow strong by applications of
liquid manure once a week. The flowers should be protected
from the sun and rain after they are expanded. The points
of merit are: (1.) Size; (2.) form; (3.) colour. The flowers
should be round and full in the centre, and the petals free
from all blemishes. If the colour is white, it should be pure,
and bright if coloured.

RHODODENDRON.

The flowers of the Rhododendron make a fine exhibit when
they are done up with leaves and neatly arranged in a stand.
Fine large trusses set up singly have a splendid appearance,
and should always be exhibited in that manner. The follow-
ing are some of the best, including both greenhouse and hardy
varieties :—Album grandiflorum, Charles Bagley, Countess of

Haddington, Dalhousianum, Edgworthii, Lobbii, M‘Nabii,
K

146 CUT FLOWERS.

Melton, Mrs. John Clutton, Sir Robert Peel, Sir Wm. Arm-
strong, and Vestal. The points of merit are: (1.) Size of
truss ; (2.) size and texture of the flowers; and (3.) brightness
of the colours and distinctness of the markings.

ROSE.

Although the advance in quality has been less conspicuous
of late in the Rose than in almost any other class of florist’s
flowers, still it nobly holds its own, and maintains as worthily
as ever its proud title of ‘‘ The Queen of Flowers ”—combining
beauty of form, richness and diversity of colour, and exquisite
fragrance with great adaptability for decorative purposes, and
especially for making the most lovely of all displays at an
exhibition. The principal classes cultivated for exhibition are
the Hybrid Perpetual and the Tea Roses. The following selec-
tions of a dozen of each includes the best of the different shades
of colour, so that the stand may be as effective as possible :—

Hybrid Perpetual Roses.—Baroness Rothschild, Comtesse de Chabril-
lant, Duchess of Bedford, Duke of Edinburgh, Etienne Levet,
Horace Vernet, La France, Lord Beaconsfield, Mabel Morrison,
Madame Victor Verdier, Marie Baumann, and Xavier Olibo,

Tca-Roses—Anna Olivier, Catherine Mermet, Cleopatra, Madame
Bravy, Madame de Sirtot, Madame de Watteville, Madame
Pierre Guillot, Mrs. James Wilson, Niphetos, Princess Beatrice,
Souvenir d’Elise, Vardon, and The Bride.

These are mostly old and well-known varieties, but their
excellent qualities are not easily rivalled by any others of their
class and colour.

To grow the rose to perfection, a sheltered situation, fully
exposed to the sun, is best, and a rich, strong, loamy soil is
required. If the soil is naturally light, it should be made
more suitable by adding strong loam to it, the top spit of an
old pasture being the best when it can be procured. The
ground should be trenched and made up of good sound mate-
rials to a depth of about two feet, incorporating plenty of
well-rotted manure, wood-ashes, or other enriching material as
the work goes on. ‘To obtain the largest and finest blooms,
dwarf low-budded plants of Hybrid Perpetuals on the Manetti
stock should be planted in the month of November. The

CUT FLOWERS. 147

planting should be carefully done, the long bare roots neatly
cut in, and the fibres evenly spread out as near the surface as
possible, so that the budded part is fairly covered with the
soil. The plants should be set about three feet apart, secured
to neat stakes, and the surface of the soil kept well mulched
with stable litter. The unripe tops of the shoots may be
shortened when planted, but pruning should be delayed till
the middle of March, and then the shoots reduced to two, with
three or four eyes in each. No exhibition blooms may be
expected the first year, but everything should be done to pro-
mote vigour and maturity in the plants for the production of
first-class blooms in the second year, when roses are generally
at their best. Only two shoots from a root should be allowed
to grow. They should be carefully attended to, kept clean,
and all the flower-buds picked off as they appear, so as to get
the wood as strong and well ripened as possible. In March
of the second year the shoots should be pruned again to about
six inches from their base, and two young shoots allowed to
grow from each, and upon these the roses for exhibition are
grown. As soon as the best buds can be clearly seen, disbud-
ding should commence, carefully reserving the best formed and
plumpest buds that promise to open their flowers at the date
of the exhibition. Three buds on each shoot are enough ata
time, and all others must be remorselessly picked off, remov-
ing also all superfluous growth, so that the whole resources of
the plant be thrown into the development of the exhibition
roses. Water must be given in dry weather, and liquid manure
liberally applied when the buds are set and swelling off, keep-
ing all clean from insects and mildew.

The Tea-Roses thrive well under similar conditions as to
soil and treatment ; they are, however, not so hardy as the
Hybrid Perpetuals, and require to be well protected with a
deep covering of litter during the winter. Even with protec-
tion the wood is frequently killed to the ground, but the litter
saves the frost getting at the roots, and most varieties will
start again freely from the collar. The Teas do best when
budded on the briar stock ; they should not be so close pruned
as the Hybrid Perpetuals, as they produce the finest blooms

148 CUT FLOWERS.

from about the middle of the previous year’s wood, when it is
well matured. The points of merit in Roses are: (1.) Size;
(2.) form ; and (3.) colour of the flowers. The larger the bloom
the better, provided it is full in the centre and of a good shape.
The petals should be thick, glossy, and regularly disposed, free
from all blemishes and notched edges, and the colour should
be clear and fresh. The blooms should always be exhibited
with foliage, which gives them a fresh and finished appearance,
and where it is necessary to add foliage it should not be over-
done, good taste easily determining the right proportion.

STOCK.

There are several kinds of Stocks (Jfatthiola), which among
them furnish a succession of flowers from early in the season
till late in autumn. Sown the previous year and treated as a
biennial, the Brompton Stock begins the season, followed by
the Ten Weeks’ Stock, an annual the name of which indicates
its precocity ; after which the Intermediate or East Lothian
Stock carries on the supply as long as mild weather lasts.
Seed should be saved from only the very best strains; and for
producing double flowers, the plants from which the seed is
saved should be as old as it is possible to keep them before
allowing them to bear seed. The seed of Intermediate and
Ten Weeks’ Stocks should be sown at the same time, and
the plants treated in the same manner as Asters. Stocks
should be exhibited either in a ‘single spike ’’—the proper
way as cut flowers—or the whole plant should be set up, with
or without the root ; but whatever form is adopted, it should
be clearly stipulated in the prize schedule to prevent confusion.
The points of merit are: (1.) Length and diameter of the
spike ; (2.) number and quality of the flowers, which should be
perfectly double ; and (3.) substance of the petals, of which the
colour should be clear and bright.

STOVE FLOWERS.
This class is so profuse in excellent kinds of cut flowers for
exhibiting in bunches, that it is rather difficult, in making a
selection, to know exactly which to leave out. However, the

CUT FLOWERS. 149

line must be drawn somewhere, and the following genera will
be found among the best and most suitable for the purpose :—
Allamanda, Amaryllis, Anthurium, Dipladenia, Eucharis, Fran-
ciscea, Gardenia, Ixora, Pancratium, Poinsettia, Rondeletia, and
Stephanotis. Their cultivation is given in the First Division.
The manner of arranging the bunches and staging them is the
same as is recommended for Greenhouse Flowers, and the points
of merit are also similar.

VIOLA.

The Viola has deservedly come into popular favour very much
of late years, owing to the great improvement in its varieties.
Tt is one of the hardiest and most useful of plants, and when
the flowers are set up on wires in bunches, they make a
pretty display on an exhibition table. The following varieties
are among the finest for competition :—Archibald Grant,
Buccleuch Gem, Countess of Hopetoun, Countess of Kintore,
Duchess of Albany, Evening Star, Gipsy Bride, Holyrood,
Lord Elcho, Mrs. John Clark, Skylark, and York and Lancaster.
The Viola is cultivated in a similar manner to the Pansy. If
planted in September, they have sufficient time to establish
themselves before winter, and are less liable to be thrown out
of the ground by frost. When planted in autumn they com-
mence blooming in early spring, and continue throughout the
season, but for very late flowers they are best planted in the
spring. The points of merit are: (1.) Size and form of bloom ;
(2.) texture of petals; and (3.) distinctness and brightness of
colouring.

BOUQUETS AND FLORAL ARRANGEMENTS.

When this section of an exhibition is well filled, it never
fails to attract the attention and admiration of all classes of
visitors. They naturally look to this department for a display
of good taste and artistic arrangement, and for enlightenment
on the best methods of using cut flowers with the most perfect
effect in a style of decoration which has in recent times become
very fashionable. Therefore all illustrations and information
tending to efficiency in the art of floral decoration are weleomed
by the public.

150 CUT FLOWERS.

A Hayp-Bovavet should be built as light and airy as pos-
sible, in shape like two-thirds of a globe, and about nine inches
in diameter of flowers, exclusive of the fringe of fern fronds
or other greenery. In competition bouquets the dominant
colour of the flowers should be white, with a due blending of
delicate shades of pink, orange, and red, all of which should
harmonise with each other, and be tastefully set off with light
graceful sprays of maidenhair fern. All violent contrasts are
objectionable, and gaudy colours should be carefully avoided,
The choicest and finest flowers at command should be em-
ployed, and every bloom selected and examined with care
to see that it is perfect. Some of the best flowers for bou-
quets are those of the Bouvardia, Carnation, Chrysanthemum,
Erica, Eucharis, Gardenia, Lapageria, Lily, Lily of the
Valley, Narcissus, Orange, Orchids, Pancratium, Pink, Rose,
Stephanotis, Tabernemontana, and Tuberose.

No frames should be used or allowed in the building of a
bouquet, but all the flowers should be carefully and neatly
wired. A piece moist wadding should be placed on the cut
end of the stem with the wire round it, thus affording a little
moisture, to retain the freshness of the flower as long as
possible. In commencing to make a bouquet, a groundwork
of flattish flowers should be formed about six inches wide, into
which the others should be regularly and tastefully inserted,
keeping the upper edge of the petals about two inches above
it without showing the wires. Each truss or bloom should
stand clear by itself, the various colours and forms being
distributed over the bouquet in harmonious order, and far
enough apart to allow the groundwork to be seen between
them. A few sprays of Adzantum gracillimum should next be
inserted, spreading them gracefully over the top, and neatly
finishing off with a fringe of Adéantum cuneatui fronds
carefully placed round the edge. Bouquets built in this style
being free and open, look more natural and graceful than with
a close plain surface. Tastefully designed bouquet-papers
should be used for all hand-bouquets, and should be put on
when staging them.

The Bripe’s Bovevet should be of the same size and build

CUT FLOWERS. 151

as the ordinary hand-bouquet, but composed entirely of white
flowers ; the sweet-scented orange-blossom being indispensable,
with the usual setting of graceful sprays of maidenhair and
sprigs of myrtle.

A Taste Bouquet should be about 12 inches in diameter,
and built on the same principle as the hand-bouquet. In
making a table-bouquet for exhibition, a choice selection of
free sprays of large brilliant-coloured flowers may be used
along with those already mentioned, such as Allamanda,
Amaryllis, Azalea, Camellia, Dipladenia, Hibiscus, Lilium,
and Rhododendron. Graceful sprays of fine foliage plants
can be employed with good effect wheu placed tastefully
among the flowers and around the edge. Long fronds of
choice maidenhair fern should be gracefully disposed all over,
and a tasteful fringe of greenery round the edge to finish
it off. The flowers may be wired to keep them in position,
but a bouquet-paper should not be used.

Burronnote Bouquets AND Laptss’ Sprays.—The former
should be about three inches high and two inches wide at the
broadest part. The latter about nine inches in length and
three inches wide. They require to be made with great taste
and neatness, and of the choicest flowers. They should be
arranged on wires, beginning with a small graceful point,
gradually widening, and quickly rounding off to the stem.
They are generally exhibited in sets of six, and may be all
made of different flowers or in pairs. The smaller kinds of
flowers should be used, such as Orchids, Carnation, Bouvardia,
Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Forget-me-not, and Rosebuds.
The natural leaves of the flowers should be used along with
neat fern fronds as a background.

A Friorat Wreats should be about 18 inches across, and
composed of choice flowers, which may be pure white or coloured,
according to taste. It should be built on a galvanised frame,
or ring of strong wire, covered with moss, over which should be
placed sprays of Cypress, Ferns, Mahonia, or such like, to form
a background. ‘The flowers should all be wired (using No.
20) to go through the moss and keep them in position. A
groundwork of flowers should first be made over the sprays,

152 CUT FLOWERS.

and then the largest flowers placed in the centre, with the
smaller ones disposed along the sides, and ferns tastefully
spread over all, giving an airy «ppesrance to the whole.

Epercyes.—These are of various shapes and sizes, but the
most graceful form should be emplored, because it is impos-
sible, even with the best of skill and material, to produce the
same effective arrangement on one of a clumsy make as
could be done with one of a graceful design. An excellent
design is one with a shallow cupped base and a trumpet vase
24 feet high, with three arms bending gracefully out from
the stem, and to the ends of which are attached small hanging
baskets. In filling the cupped base, a little clean green moss
should be placed in the water, to rest the stems of the flowers
upon to keep them in position. The top or trumpet should be
filled with slender graceful flowers, the baskets with the finest
specimens, and the base with a mixture of large flowers and
foliage, with fern fronds spread over, covering the edge of the
dish, the points resting on the table. Trailing pieces of Sela-
ginellas or Lygodium scandens should be neatly suspended from
the trumpet, and buds of Fuchsia or Begonia drooping over
the edge of the baskets prove very effective.

In judging this class, the peculiarities of taste will always
play a part, whether right or wrong, in arriving at a decision,
but with the size clearly defined and the stvle of arrangement
indicated, exhibitors will be enabled to enter into the contest
on even terms, and the chances of an unsatisfactory verdict be
reduced to a minimum. The points of merit are: (1.) Taste
displayed in the arrangement; (2.) quality; and (3.) variety
in the flowers,

DIVISION III.
FRUIT.

Tus is always an important department in horticultural
exhibitions, and more particularly in the autumn, when the
tables are laden with the richest treasures of Pomona, culled
from the hothouse, garden, and orchard. In no other section
is there such keen and persistent competition, and the laudable
ambition of every good grower of fruit to win high honours
at first-class shows is a marked feature of the times. The
great enthusiasm displayed, and the long anxiety and hard
toil cheerfully undergone by most cultivators who reap the
laurels in fruit competitions, are not excelled, if equalled, in
all other branches of gardening. The ever-increasing demand
for the very best fruit of every kind has led to a considerable
revival of the public interest in home-grown fruits, and the
culture of hardy fruits has received a great impetus during
the past decade, owing partly to the unremunerative nature
of agricultural crops and the desire to find something more
profitable than the growing of grain, and partly to the interest
which has been stirred up in the question by a series of Con-
ferences on Fruits, held at Chiswick since 1883 by the Royal
Horticultural Society of London, and at Edinburgh since 1885
by the Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society. The former
Society has held Conferences and meetings on Apples, Pears,
Grapes, and other Fruits, at which their nomenclature was rec-
tified, the best varieties named, and the methods of culture
discussed, all of which has been embodied in the Reports of
the meetings issued by the Society, and form one of the most
valuable of pomological records in existence. The Scottish
Society held a Congress on Apples and Pears in 1885, and on

Plums in 1889, and the mass,of practical information of the
153

154 FRUIT.

most useful nature to the cultivator of those important Hardy
Fruits, which was gathered in connection with them, was pub-
lished in the Reports issued by the Society. The proceed-
ings at those Conferences and the Reports, and the comments
thereon in the daily papers and the horticultural press, have
awakened a deep interest in the public mind as to the great
importance of the adoption of imprqved methods of cultivation
and the extension of fruit-growing for market, as a profitable
branch of rural industry and a means of increasing the home
supply of wholesome food for the people. It is therefore in
accordance with the nature of things that the fruit section in
horticultural exhibitions should be a centre of great attraction
to the public as well as of the keenest competition amongst
growers of fruits.

THE APPLE.

The Apple (Pyrus Malus) is a native of Britain and most
European countries, and its cultivated forms have spread to all
the civilised parts of the temperate zones, thriving as well in
Southern Tasmania as it does in Northern Canada, and in
both producing as fine fruit as the best that can be raised
in its native habitats in Europe. It is supposed to have
been cultivated in Britain by the Romans, and since the
Middle Ages at least it has been the chief fruit grown in this
country. Many fine showy kinds are now imported in large
quantities from abroad, and the dessert varieties are, as a
rule, sweeter and more melting than the same varieties of
home growth, but they lack the fine aroma and piquant
flavour of the latter, when in well-ripened condition. The
culinary varieties from abroad are also large and very hand-
some in appearance, and find a ready market among our
teeming population, but they are much inferior to the best
home-grown culinary varieties in brisk, sprightly flavour, and
good cooking qualities.

Apples at exhibitions are usually divided into two classes,
Dessert and Culinary varieties. Of the former the follow-
ing are a few which ripen early, and are fit for exhibi-
tion at autumn shows as “ripe” dessert fruit :—Devonshire

FRUIT. 155

Quarrenden, Irish Peach, Kerry Pippin, Oslin, Thorle, and
*Worcester Pearmain. These all succeed and bear freely on
any form of a tree, but for growing them to supply superior
fruit for exhibition, the “ bush ”’ form of tree on the Paradise
stock is the most convenient and generally the best. When
properly attended to, by careful summer pinching, replanting
and root-pruning when needful, top-dressing, and watering
with liquid manure, such trees produce the very finest samples
of fruit in abundance ; the crop requiring to be well thinned to
allow the best fruits to attain perfection.

For a general collection of dessert apples to be exhibited
“yipe or unripe,” the following are among the best and most
useful varieties in addition to the above six :—Adam’s Pear-
main, *Beauty of Bath, *Blenheim Pippin, Braddick’s Non-
pareil, Claygate Pearmain, Cockle’s Pippin, Cornish Aromatic,
Cornish Gilliflower, Court of Wick, Court Pendu Plat, *Cox’s
Orange Pippin, *Duchess of Oldenburg, Dutch Mignonne,
Golden Pippin, *Gravenstein, *King Harry, *King of the
Pippins, *Lady Sudeley, Mannington’s Pearmain, Margil,
*Red Astrachan, Reinette du Canada, *Ribston Pippin, and
*Scarlet Nonpareil.

Among the finest varieties of culinary apples for exhibition
in a collection of ‘ripe or unripe” fruits the following thirty
may be named :—Alfriston, Annie Elizabeth, * Beauty of Kent,
Bedfordshire Foundling, *Blenheim Pippin, Bramley’s Seed-
ling, Cox’s Pomona, *Kcklinville Pippen, *Kmperor Alexander,
Frogmore Prolific, *Gloria Mundi, *Golden Noble, Grenadier,
Kentish Fillbasket, Loddington, Lord Derby, *Lord Suffield,
*Meére de Menage, *Mrs. Barron, *Peasgood’s Nonsuch, *Pott’s
Seedling, Prince Albert, Red Winter Reinette, Stirling Castle,
Striped Beaufin, Tower of Glammis, *Warner’s King, Welling-
ton, Wilts Defiance, and Winter Hawthornden.

The finest twelve varieties of dessert and culinary apples
for exhibition are marked with an asfer’sh in the above lists.
Their large and handsome appearance, and the fine rich colour
of most of them, make them very attractive dishes on an
exhibition table. Many other handsome and useful apples are
extensively grown in various parts of the country, and some

156 FRUIT.

of them may take precedence, when well grown, over those in
the lists, which are only intended as a guide to the uninitiated
in selecting the varieties for successful competition. All exhi-
bitors of fruit select the best varieties at their command,
with little regard as to whether they have only a local ora
widely known reputation.

Well-formed, healthy, dwarf, pyramid trees, grafted on the
proper stock, should be obtained early in Autumn, or as soon as
the leaves have fallen, and be planted on a well-prepared loam,
spreading out the roots, and keeping them near the surface.
Provision should be made for the production of early fruit, as
well as for the growth of the more tender varieties, by planting
them against a wall. After planting the trees, and staking
those that require it, a mulching of stable manure should be
spread over the roots. Defer pruning till spring, when the
leader should be shortened to about one foot in length, and
the side-shoots to about nine inches. As the young shoots
grow they should be pinched when about six inches long, to
form fruit-bearing spurs, continuing this operation as long as
growth is being made, and then very little winter pruning
will be necessary.

The apple is subject to the attack of many insects, but the
caterpillar of the winter moth is the most destructive. Pinch
the infected leaves and growths to clean the trees of insects,
and remove all small and deformed fruit after they are set and
swelling. Not more than one fruit on each spur should be
left at the final thinning, as overeropping invariably ends in
failure. Liquid manure should be freely applied when the
fruit is swelling, and the ground mulched to produce a healthy
root action and large fruit. It will not do for the exhibitor
to neglect the trees all summer, and go round them the day
before the show looking for the apples that will bring him
success. He must diligently look to their wants from the
time they start into growth until the fruit is ready to gather.
The trees should be root-pruned if necessary as soon as the
leaves begin to fall in October, by making an excavation about
three feet from the stem, to admit of all downward running
roots being cut; which operation has also the tendency to pre-

FRUIT. 157

vent canker in the tree, and to promote the formation of fruit
in place of wood buds. ‘To grow first-rate fruit of Cox’s
Orange and Ribston Pippin, as well as many other fine
varieties, a wall is necessary outside of the most favourable
localities. The trees should be trained on the cordon system,
by leading two or more shoots up the wall. By pinching in
the side-shoots to form spurs, keeping the trees clean, and
feeding the roots while the crop is swelling, excellent apples
should be obtained. The points of merit are: (1.) Large
size; (2.) handsome form ; and (3.) skin, smooth and clear in
colour. Dessert apples should be sweet, juicy, and melting,
with a rich pleasing aroma. Culinary apples should be acid,
crisp, and juicy, and, when cooked, the flesh should be clear in

colour and melting, with a brisk pleasing acidity.

THE APRICOT.

The Apricot is considered to be indigenous to Armenia, but
has been found growing wild in many parts of Asia and
Africa with a semi-tropical climate, where in most instances,
however, it is supposed to be an escape from cultivation. It
is stated to have been introduced from Italy to Britain in
1524 by Woolf, gardener to Henry VIII. ; and in this country
it requires a wall and a well-sheltered situation to bring the
fruit to perfection. A well-built brick wall is the most suit-
able for growing the Apricot; and in favourable situations it
may face any point of south between south-east and south-
west, but in cold districts it must face due south. Some of
the best exhibition varieties are Hemskirke, Large Early, Moor-
park, and Shipley’s. ‘The border on which they are grown
should be well drained, as the Apricot is impatient of stagnant
moisture. Like most stone fruits, it delights in a calcareous
soil, and if lime is absent from the fibry loam with which the
border is formed, some lime rubbish should be added, and
also a little sharp sand and wood-ashes if the soil is of an
adhesive nature. Young trained trees, healthy and well
ripened, should be planted as soon as the leaves have fallen,
watering them if the soil is dry, and mulching to prevent eva-
poration and to protect the roots in winter. By careful pinch-

158 FRUIT.

ing, disbudding, and regulating the shoots during summer, the
trees should, in two or three years, be in a fit condition for
the production of first-rate fruit, suitable for exhibition. In
the summer treatment, the- shoots should be kept equal in
strength, because strong gross wood is very liable to disease,
and to cause disfigurement of the tree. To prevent this,
pinch and depress the strong shoots; and if gross growth
still continues, or if canker appears, lift the trees, prune
the roots, and replant in fresh soil. The principal points
in the successful cultivation of the Apricot are: the pro-
tection of the blossom; thinning of the fruit, and giving
it clear room to swell to its greatest size; thinning and
training of the young shoots to facilitate their’ ripening,
as they produce the finest fruit; careful watering in dry
weather ; giving liquid manure when the crop is swelling ; and
mulching heavily to keep the border cool and moist in hot
weather. Although the Apricot is comparatively free from
the attack of insects, red-spider and greenfly sometimes make
their appearance, but they are easily got rid of by the usual
means; and if woodlice attack the fruit when it is ripening,
they should be at once trapped. The fruit should be gathered
before it is over-ripe, and placed on soft paper in the fruit-
room till it is wanted, when it should be wrapped in tissue-
paper and cotton-wool, and carefully packed for transit to the
exhibition. Nine fruits make a nice dish, and in setting them
up, a piece of cotton-wool should be placed in the centre of
the dish and covered with leaves, on which the fruits should
be equally disposed without actually touching each other. The
points of merit are: (1.) Size; (2.) flavour; and (3.) colour.

THE BANANA.

This is one of those rare tropical fruits which in cultivation
combine the useful with the beautiful in a marked degree.
Its culture as a handsome foliage plant has been already
described in the First Division. Jlusa Cavendishii also fur-
nishes the exhibitor with a first-class dish of fruit for compe-
tition, to secure which it is necessary that it be planted in a

FRUIT. 159

rich and well-prepared border, made of the same materials and
receiving the treatment as described for foliage plants, till the
fruiting stage is reached, or when the plant has attained full
size. Water should then be withheld for about a month, and
with a thorough soaking of tepid water applied to the roots at
the end of that period, the plant will immediately throw up
a bunch of fruit. A high and moderately moist temperature
must be maintained to set and develop as many “hands” of
fruit as possible; and when no more will set, the point of the
bunch should be cut away. Abundance of heat, moisture,
light, and air, with copious drenchings of liquid manure at the
roots, will swell the fruit to its finest size. As it approaches
maturity, or about ten weeks after flowering, water must be
gradually reduced, and entirely withheld as soon as the first
fruits show colour, with the atmosphere kept as dry as possible
to prevent the fruit becoming spotted. As soon as they are
all about an equal size and the bunch about half-coloured, it
should be cut and hung up in a dry warm place and shaded
from bright sunshine, when it will assume a rich yellow colour
throughout, in a few days, and is then in a proper state for
exhibition. A well-grown and properly timed plant will sup-
ply a bunch of fine ripe fruit within a week of a given date
under careful treatment. The points of merit are: (1.) ‘Size
of bunch; (2.) size, equality, and ripeness of the fruit; and
(3.) colour, which should be a clear yellow.

THE CHERRY.

The Cherry has been cultivated in Britain for its fruit for
many ages, and in some parts, particularly in Kent, cherry
orchards form an important and lucrative branch of rural
industry. As an exhibition fruit it is held in considerable
esteem, especially early in the season, when other fruits of
high quality and attractive appearance are not plentiful. It
ripens first of all our hardy tree fruits, and when grown under
glass with very little artificial heat, it attains great perfection
in May and June, and is then a highly appreciated and much
valued dish of dessert. Among the finest varieties for exhibi-

160 FRUIT.

tion are the following :—(1.) Dark-coloured: Black Tartarian,
May Duke, and Morello ; (2.) Light-coloured : Bigarreau Napo-
leon, Elton, and Frogmore Early. The Cherry prefers a deep,
well-drained, friable loam, and thrives well under the same
treatment as other hardy fruit trees. It bears freely on
bushes and standards in favourable situations, but in most
parts of the country it requires to be trained against a good
wall to obtain exhibition fruit of the highest excellence. The
finest fruit is obtained by paying due attention to keeping the
trees healthy and vigorous, free from all insects, pinching and
regulating the shoots, thinning the fruit to a moderate crop,
and securely protecting it from the ravages of birds, mulching
the surface to protect and encourage the roots, and a judicious
use of liquid manure to swell the fruit to its largest size.
When nearing maturity the fruit should be fully exposed to
the light, to colour and flavour it to perfection. The Cherry
makes a beautiful dish when built in the form of a cone with
all the stalks hidden from view, and in a collection of hardy
fruit it is almost indispensable. The points of merit are:
(1.) Size; (2.) flavour; and (3.) colour and equality.

THE CURRANT.

The Currant is one of our most useful and prolific bush
fruits, Both the Black and Red species are indigenous to
Britain, where they are extensively grown and used in a ripe
state for a variety of purposes, beside being among the best
fruits for the manufacture of preserves. The fruit keeps fresh
and good for weeks of ordinary weather on the bushes after
ripening when protected from the ravages of birds, and forms
an attractive dish for exhibition. Being cultivated by every
one who has a garden, a keen contest for supremacy on the
exhibition table is engaged in, especially at country shows, and
although few reach the standard of perfection, the majority of
dishes are creditably shown. When Currants are well treated
they can be grown to a large size, and the cultivation of large
berries should be aimed at, whether they are intended for
exhibition, market, or private use. Among the best Black

FRUIT. 161

varieties are Black Champion and Black Naples; Red varieties,
Defiance and Warner’s (rape; and White varieties, Cut-leaved
White Dutch and White Versailles. Young plants are easily
raised from cuttings, and in two years are fit for planting.
Good fruit can be grown on bushes in the open, but walls
are best for growing competition fruit—a south wall for the
earliest, and a north aspect for later use. By planting on
different aspects a supply can be had from midsummer till
late in autumn. The shoots of the Black Currant should be
thinly laid in and trained over the wall. In training the Red
and White Currants, four shoots should be led up the wall at
15 inches apart, and the side-shoots kept pinched in summer
and pruned in winter to about two eyes from their base.
Plenty of light and air should be admitted to the fruit by
pinching and cutting out superfluous wood, and the clusters
thinned if too numerous. In June a top-dressing of well-
rotted poultry-yard manure mixed with fresh loam and soot is
beneficial to all Currants, and liquid manure, applied as the
fruit is swelling, improves the size of bunch and berry. Black
Currants should be gathered and exhibited singly, with part
of the footstalk attached to the berry, while the Red and
White should be exhibited in the bunch. They make a nice
dish when arranged with the stalks in the centre out of sight,
and neatly finished off in a conical form. The points of
merit in Black Currants are: (1.) Size; (2.) flavour; and
(3.) colour. In the Red and White: (1.) Size and flavour
of berries; (2.) number and equality of the berries in the
bunch ; and (3.) colour.

THE FIG.

The Fig is one of the most fruitful of trees, some varieties
producing, under favourable circumstances, three crops in the
year. Itisanative of Europe and certain parts of Africa,
and it lives to a great age. Good crops of fine fruit have been
grown on trees against south walls, in favourable districts, as
far north as Ross-shire, with some protection in winter and
spring, but they cannot be depended upon except in the best

localities in the South of England, Among the best exhibition
L

162 FRUIT.

varieties are Brown Turkey, Castle Kennedy, and Negro
Largo. Where a house is devoted to the Fig, its culture
is a very simple matter; but as a fig-house is only found, as
a rule, in extensive gardens, a few hints on its cultivation
among other plants may be of service. It thrives and fruits
well on the back-wall of a vinery when not too much shaded,
if the roots are confined to a limited space among rough loam,
lime rubbish, brickbats, and some half-inch bones. For the
first crop of figs ripe in May and June, a vinery started in
January is necessary, the fruit being borne on the previous
year’s growth. If the crop is too thick, it should be thinned,
leaving the best fruit at six inches apart on the shoots. As
soon as they begin to swell, tepid liquid manure should be
freely given, and the syringe applied morning and evening
until the fruit begins to ripen, when the moisture should be
reduced, and only sufficient water given as will keep the plants
healthy. Figs in pots, after being well rested, should be in-
troduced to the second vinery early in March. They should
be potted in the same material, and, if well supplied with
liquid manure when the crop is swelling, good exhibition fruit
should be ripe from June till August. A supply from then
till October will be furnished by trees in the cool peach-house,
grown under the same conditions as those on the back wall of
the vinery. ‘The second crop from trees in the vinery should
also be available to meet the demand for autumn shows.
The Fig is a very gross feeder, and it is by the judicious
application of liquid and solid manures that the finest fruit
is grown. The fruit when ripe should be cut close to the stem
with a sharp knife, to prevent injury in gathering, then placed
in tissue-paper and packed carefully for transit. Six large
fruits are suflicient to make a dish. The points of merit
are: (1.) Size; (2.) colour; (3.) flavour; the skin should be
dry, and not too much burst open.

THE GOOSEBERRY.,

The Gooseberry belongs to the genus /iles, and is a native
of Britain and the temperate parts of Europe. It attains the

FRUIT. 163

highest perfection in certain districts of the country, where
summer heat seldom exceeds 75°. With good cultivation
they grow to a large size, are very luscious, and much appre-
ciated as dessert. A dozen of the largest and best flavoured
varieties for exhibition are: (Red) Industry, Keen’s Seed-
ling, Rifleman, and Warrington; (White or Green) Bright
Venus, Hedgehog, Snowdrop, and Whitesmith ; (Yellow) Early
Sulphur, Leader, Leveller, and Mount Pleasant. The Goose-
berry thrives best in a free loamy soil on a clay subsoil in an
open situation, and bears the best fruit on young well-ripened
wood of the previous year. If they run to gross wood, the
bushes should be lifted and transplanted, which brings them
into fine bearing condition. The shoots should be thinned
out in summer, and the only winter pruning will be the
partial shortening of the fruit-bearing shoots. After the
fruit is set, the ground should be mulched, and the bushes
liberally fed with liquid manure while the crop is swelling.
When the fruit begins to ripen, no water should be given,
and some varieties require protection from heavy rain, to
prevent bursting. The crop should be thinned if necessary,
and the flavour is much improved by a full exposure to the
sun while ripening. They make a fine dish when set up in
conical form, with the stalks out of sight. The points of
merit are: (1.) Flavour; (2.) size; (3.) colour, and thinness
of skin.

THE GRAPE.

The successful cultivation of the Grape Vine is considered
by many to be the masterpiece of horticultural skill; and
although possessed of a strong constitution, and capable of
adapting itself to many conditions of soil and circumstances,
yet there ix no plant which so soon shows the results of un-
skilful management, or so well repays the grower for liberal
treatment and any special care bestowed on it, by the well-
developed and highly-finished clusters of luscious fruit. There
are several well-marked stages of development in the vine
and its produce, from the time of starting to grow till the
fruit is gathered, each requiring its special line of treatment

164 FRUIT.

and entailing a considerable amount of care, skill, and close
observation to foresee results and keep clear of all that tends
to interfere with perfection in the Grape. Being the most
popular of all hothouse fruits, the culture of the Grape is
entered into with great zest by those amateurs who can
afford the luxury of a vinery, and by every professional hor-
ticulturist who has an opportunity. For exhibition purposes,
however, its cultivation is carried on by a comparatively
small proportion of the total number of growers, which might
be greatly increased, to the mutual advantage of all concerned.

In selecting the best varieties of grapes for exhibition, the
Muscat of Alexandria may well hold the premier place. Its
large and handsome-shaped bunches and berries, beautiful
colour, richly luscious flesh, and high flavour are not found
combined to the same extent in any other variety. The Black
Hamburgh keeps close company with the Muscat, slightly
behind it in some points, while excelling it in others, and
especially in general utility. The many excellent qualities of
Madresfield Court claim for it a place next the Hamburgh
among black grapes, while among white varieties Buck-
land’s Sweetwater, in its best form, may be placed next the
Muscat, although a long way behind that superior grape.
Among other white grapes, Foster's Seedling, Golden Queen,
Mrs. Pearson, and Tokay are good useful grapes, while Syrian,
Trebbiano, and White Nice bear large handsome bunches, but
being deficient in quality and flavour, they may be considered
third-class grapes. Duke of Buccleuch is a fine early white
grape, With splendid berries, but difficult to get in first-rate
condition ; and the Duchess of Buccleuch, although small in
berry, is unrivalled for flavour. Among other black varieties,
Lady Downes, Muscat Hamburgh, and Mrs. Pince, when in
first-rate condition, come near the top of the list. Alicante
and Alnwick Seedling bear handsome bunches of fine berries,
with a dense bloom, while the enormous bunches of Gros
Guillaume, and the enormous berries of Gros Colman and
Gros Maroc, when well finished, carry them well to the front
in competition, and from a commercial point of view the last
two might almost top the list.

FRUIT. 165

To grow grapes to the highest state of perfection for exhi-
bition, the vines must be comparatively young and in vigorous
health, with the borders fresh and well made. Worn-out vines
and exhausted borders are totally incapable of producing first-
class grapes, and must be renewed if the grower is to have any
chance to command success. In choosing the site of a vinery,
an open position with a gentle slope to the south is to he
preferred. A lean-to house of the following dimensions makes
a first-rate vinery for all ordinary purposes—Height at back,
15 feet; at front, 3 feet; with a width of 15 feet; giving a
length of rod of vine of about 21 feet. This structure should
be divided into convenient Jengths, but not less than 30 feet,
which is sufficient for growing three or four kinds; and more
varieties should not be grown in the same house if it can be
avoided. The earth should be excavated to a depth of about
3 feet 6 inches, and thus allow 3 inches for concrete in unsuit-
able subsoil for vine roots; 9 inches for perfect drainage, and
2 feet 6 inches for the soil in which the vines are to grow.
Deeper borders are unnecessary, and in strong soils the depth
may be reduced to 2 feet of soil with advantage. Surface
dressings, liquid manure, and the beneficial influence of air
and light operate most effectually on the roots in comparatively
shallow borders, and lengthened experience has fully proved
the good results. The concrete, where necessary, is composed
of a layer of lime and gravel or ashes, well mixed in the propor-
tion of about one of lime to six of gravel, laid on while the lime
is hot, levelled and beaten smooth, and allowed a few days to
dry and consolidate, when it forms a hard impervious bottom,
and should have sufficient slope to run water off quickly. On
this the drainage is carefully laid, from six to nine inches deep,
according to the slope of the bottom and the nature of the
materials. The top of the drainage fairly levelled, and a turf
with the grass downwards laid all over it, makes all ready for
the soil. This is usually obtained from an old pasture by
stripping the top three inches or more, according to the
quality, a moderately stiff marly loam being the most suitable.
It should be chopped into pieces about four inches square, and
mixed with a little lime and brick rubbish, according to its

166 FRUIT.

nature, to keep it open and allow water to percolate freely.
A little wood-ashes may also be added, but as a rule no organic
manures should be mixed with the soil when making the
border. ‘Too rich a soil has a tendency to cause over luxuri-
ance, which is not conducive to fruitfulness. The proper aim
should be to lay a good foundation on a moderate growth of
well-ripened wood. The compost having been carefully put
in its place and well consolidated, the border will be in readi-
ness for the planting of the vines. Many varieties are often
seen planted in the same house, no consideration having been
given as to whether they were amenable to the same treat-
ment or not. This error should be strictly avoided, and only
those varieties planted in the same house which are known to
succeed under the same treatment and temperature. One or
two houses should be devoted to those requiring a high tem-
perature, such as the Muscat of Alexandria, Mrs. Pince, Muscat
Hamburgh, Gros Colman, Gros Guillaume, and Trebbiano.
Although the three last are not high-flavoured grapes, they are
improved by the same treatment as Muscats. Other houses may
contain Alicante, Alnwick Seedling, Black Hamburgh, Buckland
Sweetwater, Golden Queen, Madresfield Court, and their like.
The houses are, say, 30 feet long, taking nine vines, each
3 feet 4 inches apart. The roots of the vines should be care-
fully examined before planting, to ascertain if they are in a
healthy state and likely to make a good start. If the canes
are long, they should be bent horizontal, and the eyes cut out
to within a foot of the roots. Early in March the vines should
be placed in a gentle heat, and when they have grown about
three inches they are ready for planting; shaking them care-
fully out, pruning any long roots, and spreading all carefully
out, and covering them with some of the finest of the soil,
settling it about them with tepid water, and finishing off all
smoothly. After the roots have got hold of the soil, watering
must be carefully attended to, as neglect of this is a frequent
source of failure in vines, especially at first, when the border
is extremely porous, and water percolates freely to the drain-
age. The strong roots in searching for water push their way
downwards until they form a perfect mass at the bottom of

FRUIT. 167

the border, choking the drainage, and causing late starting,
late ripening, and inferior fruit, with more or less shrivelling.

It is found that by lifting the roots of unsatisfactory Muscats
and laying them near the surface, the vigour of the plant and
the quality of the fruit is restored to its normal condition.
This may apply with more or less effect to other grapes, but
it is especially noticeable with Muscat of Alexandria. To
prevent the roots going down, the border should be mulched
and frequently watered. Close attention must also be given
to the atmospheric conditions. A temperature of 50° at night
and 60° by day should not be exceeded until the leading shoot
is about two feet long, and the roots taking kindly to the soil.
It is of the utmost importance not to exhaust the sap in the
stem by too much heat until the roots are in a condition to
supply the demand. Otherwise the plants may survive, but a
check is given to them from which they will not soon recover.
When the roots are actively at work, 5° more of heat may be
given both day and night, with plenty of moisture kept up by
syringing in the morning and afternoon, and damping the
border several times daily. By the time the shoots are half
way up the roof, the temperature should be 60° at night, 70°
to 80° with sunshine during the day. All laterals should be
pinched at the second leaf, and the sub-laterals at the first
leaf, which is much better for the vines than the detrimental
practice of allowing the laterals to grow without stopping
until the roof is entirely covered. The sap should be concen-
trated as much as possible in the stem, to be utilised in pro-
ducing the growth of the following year.

Due regard having been paid to watering, airing, tempera-
ture, and keeping insects in check during the summer, the shoots
should be well ripened and ready for pruning by December.
A perfect rest of at least two months without heat should be
given to all vines, whether old or young. In pruning, an eye
should be selected on each side of the rod near the bottom of
the rafter, from which to form the future spurs, and an eye
above to form the leading shoot. All loose bark should be
removed, and the rods washed and dressed with some approved
insecticide. Forcing should commence about the middle of

168 FRUIT.

February, with a temperature of 55° at night, 60° to 70° by
day, increasing to 60° at night as the leaves expand. By
midsummer the heat should rise to 65° at night and 80°
to 90° with sunshine during the day for the Muscat house,
and the cooler houses always kept 5° lower. All laterals
should be regularly pinched, and the side-shoots to form the
spurs should be stopped at the sixth leaf and tied to the wires
as soon as they can be safely handled, but great care must be
taken, as they snap off very easily. A few of the shoots lower
down the rod should be left, and pinched at the third leaf so
as to clothe the stem, but all bunches should be removed.
The treatment of the vines in the second year is exactly
similar to that of the first year.

The third or fruiting year may be regarded as the most
important, as then the whole circle of treatment is carried
out. The side-shoots should be pruned at the first eye, or
second if most prominent, and the leading shoot shortened
to about 24 feet, which will furnish two laterals on each side
about 14 inches apart. Muscats and other white kinds succeed
best, however, with the spurs 18 inches apart, to admit plenty
of light to assist the colouring of the fruit. This is also
necessary to the perfect colouring of some of the black kinds
with thick tough skins.

The advantages gained by moderately close pruning are:
(1.) Securing a gradual thickness and strength from the root
upwards ; (2.) ensuring a regular break ; (3.) admitting more
light and a freer circulation of air among the vines ; and (4.)
as a prevention of overcropping, by restricting the number of
bearing shoots while the vines are young. After the rods are
cleaned and dressed, the surface soil should be taken off the
inside border down to the roots. The border may have sub-
sided, and should be made up with turfy loam mixed with
half-a-peck of artificial vine manure and the same quantity
of bone-meal to the barrow-load of soil, and with some
decomposed manure bring it up to the original level, finishing
off with a thin layer of fine soil and wood-ashes.

In order to obtain perfectly finished grapes in August,
foreing should commence in the Muscat house towards the

FRUIT. 169

end of January, with a temperature of 60° to 65°, and in the
second house in the middle of February, with 5° less heat,
rising gradually with the advance of the season. Some
flowers will be opening by the middle of April, when the heat
should range from 65° to 70° at night, with a rise of 10° during
the day and a drier atmosphere. This is an important stage
in the growth of the grape. On the successful fertilisation
of the flower depends the symmetry of the bunch and size of
the berry, two properties which contribute largely to the for-
mation of a perfect bunch. <A successful set is believed to be
largely due to the favourable state of the weather at the time
of flowering ; but experience teaches us that the use of the
camel’s-hair brush is a great assistance in effecting this desirable
result, by removing any exudation from the stigma, and diffus-
ing the pollen equally over the flowers. The transference of
the pollen of one variety to another, and from those with
plenty to others that are deficient, is beneficial in perfect-
ing fertilisation. Previous to flowering, remove all bunches.
except the best one on each lateral, and allow none on the
leading shoot. After setting, a further reduction of the
bunches is necessary to obtain success and to do justice to the
vines. It is not usual to lay down rules for the cropping of
vines, so much depends on the strength of the plants and
other circumstances; but as we are dealing only with those
which are in the very best condition, we may endeavour to
define what should be a fair crop on vines three years old or
the first season of bearing. Although the perfect finish and
colour of the fruit may be a good measure of the capacity of
a vine, it may be all that could be desired, and yet the vine be
so much overcropped as to very much impair its vitality. To
produce exhibition bunches, all vines of equal strength should
carry the same weight of grapes, say from six to seven pounds,
at three years old. The berries should be thinned as early
as possible after they are set. This operation is not easily
described, but a few observations will be of some service
to those not thoroughly conversant with the process. The
object of thinning is to obtain shapely bunches and large
berries, giving just as much room to each berry as it requires

170 FRUIT.

for attaining its full size If it is possible to complete the
operation at once, it should be done; but to secure equal
berries it is often necessary to leave more than is required in
view of a second thinning. This should be effected as soon as
it is clearly seen which berries are likely to attain a full size.
Large berries on strong foot-stalks are not readily over-thinned.
Long lopping shoulders should be cut in, and may be slung if
necessary to keep them square; but tying up generally should
be avoided, as loose bunches are of less value in competition
than those of a firm and compact build. When the berries
are swelling freely, a temperature of 65° to 70° at night, with
75° to 80° during the day, should be maintained, while 90°
may be reached with strong sunshine and plenty of ventila-
tion. At this stage, and previous to colouring, surface dress-
ings of different kinds of approved manures should be given.
Besides manures specially prepared for vines, fish manure,
bone-meal, and Peruvian guano all contain elements of great
value in the successful cultivation of the vine. These should
be applied thinly but often to the surface of the border, and
watered in. By the time the berries are the size of peas, it
will be necessary to maintain a night temperature of 70°, and
during the day $0° to 90° in sunshine. Muscats and some
other varieties are liable to have their leaves scorched about
this time, especially after dull days. Free ventilation night
and day, and a lower temperature and drier atmosphere for
a few days, will prevent scorching of either leaves or fruit.
The airing of vineries is. as a rule, not sufficiently studied,
and the temperature is too often allowed to rise to a certain
degree with the sun shining before the ventilators are moved
at all. This is a bad practice, considering the state of the
atmosphere in houses of modern construction, and is a prolific
source of scorching. When vines are in full growth, top
ventilation should be given as soon as the thermometer indi-
cates a rise from the heat of the sun, but not in excess to
cause the mercury to fall. The temperature may then rise
5° before admitting front air or giving more at the top. In
order to keep the atmosphere sweet and moist, water should
be sprinkled on the border and path several times daily.

FRUIT. 1a

Shutting up early in the afternoon is recommended by some
to utilise the natural heat and save the artificial. This, in a
certain measure, is to be commended ; but in closing the ven-
tilators while the sun’s rays are so strong as to raise the
temperature to 100° or more, and then deluging the house
with water through the engine or syringe, amounts to what is
termed the “steaming system,” and is not at all a wise or
natural process. This saturated atmosphere may be con-
genial to rapid growth, but when it is made at the expense
of the perfect elaboration of the sap and consolidation of the
tissue, a check is given to the functional operations, causing
general derangement, from which can be traced some of the
disorders of the vine which are often attributed to other
causes, and consequently excessive moisture in a close atmos-
phere should be avoided. During the stoning period, undue
forcing is certain to produce scalding in the berries of varieties
liable to it, but a free circulation of air both night and day
with 5° less of heat will prevent its occurrence to any great
extent. When the berries are stoned and begin to swell, the
former conditions as to heat, moisture, and manuring should
be resumed. When signs of colour appear, a copious watering
should be given to any varieties of which the berries are liable
to crack. After this they should be kept comparatively dry
till the ripening is complete, when sufficient water may be
given to keep the roots active and healthy without any danger
of the berries cracking ; but to prevent injury by damp, the
watering should be done on a dry clear morning. Other
varieties may be watered when necessary throughout the
ripening process, and some dry mushroom-bed manure spread
on the border to prevent evaporation. Keep up a free circu-
lation of dry warm air at night by leaving a small opening at
top and front, keeping up the same temperature of 70° for
Museats and 65° for the others, to be gradually reduced as the
final stage is reached.

A careful watch should always be kept for the appearance
of red spider, which should be washed off with a sponge and
soapy water to prevent it spreading. Syringing with insecti-
cides is now unsuitable, and even rain-water, from having

172 FRUIT.

been in contact with houses and dirty tanks, cannot be used
without leaving marks on the berries. The safe course is to
examine the leaves carefully previous to the fruit colouring.
If they are quite clear of red spider, little danger may be
apprehended from it afterwards. Thrips aré also injurious to
the vine. They attack and weaken the leaves and disfigure
the berries, but are far more easily removed than spider.
Fumigating two or three times on alternate evenings will
suffice to kill or keep them in check.

All the light possible should be admitted to Muscats and
thick-skinned grapes when they are colouring, by putting the
leaves aside, taking care that the direct rays of the mid-day
sun do not strike on the berries, as it is apt to discolour them.
The condensation of moisture on the berries must also be pre-
vented by keeping the pipes moderately warm at night and
increasing the ventilation in the morning before the tempera-
ture rises. Although the atmosphere of the house may appear
to be perfectly dry, there is always more or less moisture in it,
which heats sooner than the berries, and a deposition of dew
immediately takes place on the cooler surface, which soon eva-
porates and leaves a mark on the bloom.

Beside the effects of the pests already enumerated, grapes
are liable to suffer from attacks of mildew, rust, scalding, and
other complaints, which disfigure their appearance and reduce
their competitive value.

Mildew is an insidious disease, and its presence is some-
times not easily accounted for, Certain atmospheric influences
accelerate its progress, such as a damp, close, sultry air, while
even extreme dryness favours its spread. Its appearance on
the leaves resembles specks of pale grey powder, and it is
sometimes found on the berries when the leaves are healthy
and clean. When first observed, flowers of sulphur should at
once be applied with an elastic puff, and if the berries are kept
dry, the sulphur can be blown clean off them.

Rust is produced by injury to the cuticle of the berry
whilst young and tender. Its appearance is attributed to
various causes, such as the application of sulphur to hot-water
pipes, the handling of the berries while thinning, a cold cur-

FRUIT. 173

rent of air, and an over-moist atmosphere; but whether any
of these be a cause of it or not, they should be all carefully
watched, and as much as possible avoided.

Scalding is an injury to the berry at a more advanced stage
of its growth. The main cause of it is an unnatural condition
of the air through the want of a free circulation. Too high a
temperature in the morning before ventilation is given, and
too early closing with much heat in the afternoon, are fertile
sources of it, and must be strictly guarded against.

Shanking is a disease affecting the foot-stalks of the berry.
It appears in two forms and at different periods; first about
the time of stoning, when a dark line may be observed moving
along the centre of the stem or foot-stalk in the direction of
the fruit, soon after which the berry begins to shrivel. The
second begins about the time of colouring by a dark ring en-
circling the foot-stalk, which ultimately turns black through-
out. Instead of the berries shrivelling, as in the other case,
they retain their plumpness for a considerable time, although
quite useless. Muscat of Alexandria is most subject to the
first form of disease, while the second attacks the Black Ham-
burgh and other varieties. Defective root-action is probably
the origin of the first, and the second may be ascribed gene-
rally to a want of vital energy in the plant, possibly from lack
of nourishment, or the weight of the crop being greater than
the plant can sustain. In well-managed vineries this disease
rarely occurs,

Shrivelling is a natural condition of all grapes if allowed
to hang long enough, but when it appears prematurely it is
obvious something is wrong. Early shrinking of the berries
chiefly arises from the imperfect condition of the saccharine
matter, resulting probably from the adverse circumstances
under which the fluids have been assimilated in the leaves, and
thence secreted in the berries. A dry warm atmosphere, or
any check to leaf and root action, is productive of shrivelling.

It is imperative that every precaution be taken to preserve
the grapes from the attacks of insects and all diseases which
blemish and spoil their appearance, so that they may be staged
without a speck and in the highest state of perfection.

174 FRUIT.

We have explained briefly the principal operations and
matters of importance to be observed in the cultivation of the
vine during the first three years of its growth, and refer the
inquirer after fuller details to Mr. A. F. Barron’s “‘ Vines and
Vine Culture,” the best treatise extant on the subject.

A few hints on preparing the grapes for exhibition may be
useful to the beginner. The first thing to determine is the
stand on which the grapes are to be exhibited, and Horticul-
tural Societies should insist on these being of a uniform slope
and dimensions. The irregularity and untidy appearance of
so many different forms and sizes as are frequently seen at
exhibitions detracts greatly from the pleasing effect of the
display, and even a good bunch set on a badly constructed
stand is shown at a great disadvantage. A convenient size,
with a slope to show off the fruit effectively, should be
adopted at all exhibitions. The following are good average
dimensions :—Height at back of sloping board, 12 inches ;
breadth of slope, 16 inches; and length of stand 9 inches
for each bunch it has to carry, but the length may vary
according to the size of the bunches. The back or upright
board should rise 24 inches above the junction with the
sloping board, making it 144 inches high. The ends should
be filled in with brackets to keep the whole firm. The top
of the stand should be covered with plain white paper neatly
pasted down, but with no ribbons or brass nails used in the
way of adornment, which are out of place and unnecessary.

The bunches should be cut with a piece of the shoot attached,
and great care must be exercised in handling them, so as
to preserve the bloom without the slightest rub or injury.
Examine the bunch closely, and place the best side upper-
most, fastening it securely at the top, and also near the bottom
with narrow tape carefully passed between the berries and
through two small holes in the board, to be firmly tied behind.
Neat handling by the operator is necessary to avoid rubbing
the berries, and to have the bunch held perfectly firm and
secure on the board, so that it cannot roll in the least during
the joggling of a long journey by road or rail, After the
bunches are securely fixed on the stands they should be placed

FRUIT. 175

in a strongly constructed box, specially prepared for their safe
transit to the exhibition, and in which they can be set expedi-
tiously and securely. A good size for such a box, which two
men can easily carry, and to hold eight bunches on their stands
in two rows, with the back of the stands to the sides, is
36 inches long, 15 inches deep, and about 30 inches wide, all
inside measures. It should be fitted inside with slips and
grooves, between which to set and fasten the stands quickly
and securely. The box should be provided with strong handles
for carrying it, and with a proper lock and duplicate keys.

The points of merit in grapes are: (1.) Size and form of
bunch ; (2.) flavour, size, and quality of the berries; and
(3.) colour and bloom. A model bunch of Muscat of Alexan-
dria may be described as follows:—Length, from 12 to 15
inches; breadth at widest part of shoulders, two-thirds of the
length, and tapering regularly to the point; berries large,
even in size, not squeezed, but so closely set that the bunch
retains its perfect shape when laid on the stand; of a clear
amber colour, with a perfect bloom, and free from all blemishes.
This description applies generally to all other grapes, making
due allowance for their natural variations.

THE MELON.

The Melon is said to be a native of the moist parts of the
low valleys lying to the south of the Caucasus and the Caspian
Sea in Asia, where it flourishes with great luxuriance. From
thence it has spread through cultivation to all parts of the
world with a tropical or semi-tropical climate. Wherever
there is sutficient summer heat to bring the Melon to maturity
it thrives well and is cultivated with success, even although
the winters may he far more rigorous than in Britain, where,
to be successful, it has to be grown ina hothouse. It has been
cultivated for its fruit in this country since about 1570, but
it is only within the present century that it has reached its
highest state of perfection, and become so popular among us
as a dessert fruit. he demand for it is now so large that it
far exceeds the supply raised at home, and it is imported in

176 FRUIT.

great quantities from warmer countries, where it is cheaply
grown in the open air. Like the Pine-apple, however, the
Melons grown in our hothouses much excel the imported fruit
in richness and high quality.
As an exhibition fruit the Melon is highly esteemed, and
a well-grown specimen, in perfect condition, is a strong point
in a collection. It forms a handsome dish, and is a good
counterpart to the Pine-apple. Almost every competitor has
a favourite variety, which he cultivates with much diligence
and success; and so much depends on the careful attention
paid to the saving of the seed, that a grower for competition
is, as a rule, better to save his own. Among the popular
varieties which have acquired a reputation for the exhibitov’s
purpose are the following :—
Green-fleshed Varicties. —Kastnor Castle, La Favorite, Longleat Per-
fection, and William Tillery.
Scarlet-fleshed.—Benham Beauty, Hero of Bath, Read’s Scarlet, and
Sion House.

White-fleshed.—Colston Bassett, Hero of Lockinge, Lord Strathmore’s
Favourite, and The Countess.

For the cultivation of the Melon to the highest state of per-
fection in this country, it must be grown in a glass-house
efficiently heated by hot water. The best form of house is
a low lean-to or a half-span, facing south, so that it may receive
all the light and sunshine possible in our variable climate,
as without these two important elements the Melon is seldom
superior to a common gourd. The heating apparatus must be
able to supply an abundance of top and bottom heat, as may
be required by the Melons in all conditions of the weather. A
brick bed about 2 feet wide and 18 inches deep, well-drained,
and with a flow and return bottom-heat pipes beneath it,
should be formed along the front of the house, and as near to
the roof as is convenient for attending to and training the
plants to the wires, which should be fixed about 15 inches
from the glass, about 10 inches apart, and kept tight by
screwed bolts and nuts.

The Melon delights in a strong mellow loam, of a calcareous
nature, and enriched with decomposed vegetable matter, A

FRUIT. 177

compost of strong fibry loam with a third of well-decomposed
leaf-mould and a sprinkling of old lime rubbish, all well mixed
and packed rather firm in the bed, grows it well. For early
exhibitions, in May or June, the seed must be sown in
January and February in the same compost, putting a seed
in a three-inch pot, or planting them two inches apart in pans,
covering the seed with a pinch of sharp sand, and setting the
pots or pans in strong bottom-heat till the seeds vegetate.
As soon as they are fairly above ground they should be placed
close to the glass to keep them sturdy, and care must be taken
to shade them from the sun. When they have made the first
leaf, they should be re-potted or potted singly into five-inch
pots, using the compost in a warm mellow state, and being
careful not to bruise the stem of the plant while firming the
soil. Every precaution must be taken not to bend or bruise
the stem when it is young and tender, as it renders the plant
more liable to disease or canker. Grow then in plenty of
heat near the glass, and give air on all favourable occasions
to keep the plants healthy, vigorous, and sturdy. The plants
will be ready for planting out in the bed in about six weeks
from the time when they were sown. The bed should be
made up a few days beforehand, to warm the soil to the desired
temperature, about 75°. In planting, set the plants about two
feet apart, and place the earth firm around the balls, which
should not be covered, but just level with the surface of the
bed. Carefully train the plant up the wires till it has reached
within a foot of the top, when it should be stopped, and the
fruit-bearing laterals will soon push forth along its entire
length. The laterals should be all stopped at the second or
third leaf; and as soon as the female flowers expand, they
must be gone over daily about one o’clock, and “set” or
impregnated, by picking off a male flower charged with pollen
and placing it on the stigma of the female flower or fruit. As
soon as four fruits are set on a plant and swelling freely, no
more need be set, and any more swelling should be removed.
For exhibition specimens, two to four fruits on a plant are as
many as it can bring to perfection. From the beginning water

must be carefully applied, and a moist temperature kept up of
M

178 FRUIT.

about 70° at night, rising to 80° during the day, and to 90°
with sun-heat, and plenty of air; shading when necessary to
prevent flagging and scorching, but giving all the light the
plants can bear, especially as the crop nears maturity. If
the plants are“maintained in a healthy, vigorous state, insects
are not troublesome, but if red spider appear, it should be at
once attacked with the syringe or the leaves carefully sponged,
so as to keep it in check. As the fruit begins to ripen, the
water must be gradually withheld, and all the light and air
given that is possible while the high temperature is main-
tained, and by this means a rich flavour and fine quality is
secured. Melons are quite amenable to the stimulating influ-
ences of liquid manure, but it must be cautiously applied, so
as not to induce rank growth, deteriorating the quality of the
fruit, and often ending in disease. Before the fruit is half
swelled, each should be supported on a piece of small-meshed
galvanised wire-netting about six inches square, and slung by
strings from the trellis at such a distance as the fruit may lie
on its side and have perfect freedom to swell to its full size.
Cracking of the fruit is the result of careless watering, and
under proper management need not be apprehended. Should
the fruit ripen too early for the show, it may be cut as soon
as it reaches maturity, but not over-ripe, and hung up ina
net in a dry cool room, where it will keep sound and good for
a fortnight or more with scarcely any loss of flavour. To
have a Melon at its best for flavour on the day of the show,
it should be quite ripe and cut two or three days previously,
and placed in the warmest spot in the house in the full blaze
of the sun till it is wanted. Later in the season, for exhibit-
ing at shows held from July to September, the Melon requires
exactly the same treatment, but it takes less time in summer
to reach maturity, about three months sufiicing from the time
the seed is sown until, under good management, the fruit is
ripe and fit for exhibition.

The chief points in a Melon are: (1.) Shape, which should
be handsome, smooth, and globular, and the netted varieties
regularly marked ; (2.) size, which should not be less than
18 inches in circumference ; and (3.) the flesh thick, tender,

FRUIT. 179

sweet, juicy, and melting, with a rich, luscious flavour, a pleas-
ing aroma, and a thin skin.

THE NECTARINE,

This is a very distinct and beautifully coloured section of
the Peach tribe, Amygdalus persica, the piquantly refreshing,
rich juicy flesh of which is preferred by some palates to that
of the more luscious typical section. As an exhibition fruit,
the Nectarine ranks next after the Peach. For that purpose
the following are among the best, arranged in the order in
which they usually ripen :—Lord Napier, Elruge, Pitmaston
Orange, Pine-Apple, Humboldt, and Spencer. The cultivation
of the Nectarine is the same in all respects as that of the
Peach, for details of which see the article on that fruit.

The points of merit in a dish of Nectarines are: (1.) The
fruits should be large, equal in size, smooth, and symmetrical ;
(2.) ripe and sound, with a rich juicy flesh of a brisk vinous
flavour, and parting freely from the stone, which should be
small ; and (3.) the colour should be bright and fresh, dark red
next the sun, and orange or yellowish green in the shade.

THE ORANGE.

There are several species of the genus Citrus cultivated as
oranges, the origin of which is lost in antiquity ; but from the
earliest ages of which there is any record, they appear to
have been grown and used as food by the natives of Eastern
countries from Asia Minor to Japan. At the present time it
it is extensively cultivated for commercial purposes in the
southern countries of Europe, the Madeira Islands, Florida,
and Southern California, besides many other places of less
fame as orange-growing centres. Its cultivation in this
country as a dessert fruit has never attained any amount of
popularity, or received anything like the attention from horti-
culturists which its excellence under proper treatment deserves.
To any one who has tasted the delicious richness of favour of
a perfectly ripe and full-grown orange, fresh gathered from
the tree, grown in a suitable hothouse, it is a marvel in those
days of cheap glass and advanced cultural skill why the Orange

180 FRUIT.

is not cultivated with success in the gardens of the wealthy,
where it might well fill a place among less delicious fruits,
which are often cultivated at much more cost than it takes to
grow fine crops of first-rate oranges.

As an exhibition fruit, the ordinary produce of our hot-
houses has seldom been such as to recommend it for a high
award; but with suitable accommodation and proper treat-
ment, specimens can be easily grown to rank alongside of the
best peaches, figs, or melons, if not to equal the grape itself.
The best varieties for the purpose, so far at least as the nume-
rous fine kinds grown abroad have been tested by cultivation in
Britain, are the Maltese Blood, Mandarin, St. Michael’s, and
Tangerine Oranges. Where these varieties can be grown in
a properly constructed orangery—very unlike the old-fashioned
dungeon called an ‘“‘ Orangery ’—they amply repay with abun-
dance of luscious fruit the cost and skill bestowed on them.
They thrive to perfection in a rich marly turfy loam, in which
apples grow with the greatest success. In preference, the trees
should be planted in a well-drained border, made of such soil,
with the addition of a free sprinkling of half-inch bones. In
their treatment, they require much the same temperature and
management as the peach when forced ; but being evergreens,
even more care is necessary to guard against the inroads of
noxious insects. which are their greatest pest, and difficult to
eradicate when once they get a footing among the evergreen
foliage and branches. With that exception, they are much
easier managed than most forced fruits, and require nothing
but average attention to heat, air, moisture, thinning of fruit,
watering. and manuring. When they are swelling a crop of
fruit, they are much benefited by a judicious supply of clear
liquid manure. They require very little pruning or training,
merely sufficient to keep them in shape, with the branches
wide enough apart to allow a free play of light and air around
the ripening fruit and the blossom of the succeeding crop,
which are usually both upon the tree at the same time. The
culture of the Orange in pots is exactly similar, and with
liberal treatment they produce fine crops of beautiful fruit.
The Orange thrives best when not over-potted; but the

FRUIT. 181

drainage must be ample, to allow of copious supplies of liquid
manure, as well as of clear water, at the seasons when they
are required. The plants must never be allowed to become
dry, but careful watering is necessary in winter to avoid sour-
ing the soil. At starting in spring, a mild bottom-heat to the
plants in pots is beneficial. Their points of merit are: (1.)
Size; (2.) flavour and juiciness ; and (3.) colour and thinness
of skin.

THE PEACH.

This delicious fruit has been cultivated in Oriental countries
from time immemorial, and was generally considered to be a
native of Persia; but De Candolle, on what appears to be
irrefragable evidence, traces its origin to China, where it is
mentioned by Confucius as early as the fifth century before
the Christian era. It is now cultivated with success in most
of the warmer parts of the temperate zones, and especially in
the United States of America, in some parts of which it forms
a staple industry, and grows with great luxuriance and fruit-
fulness under the rudest methods of cultivation. In Britain,
however, it must be grown under glass with proper heating
appliances, so as to command the greatest success and certainty
of a crop. In some favoured spots it may be grown with
tolerable success on open walls, where it generally attains a
high flavour, although usually lacking some important point
deemed necessary in first-rate exhibition fruit.

The Peach and Nectarine are merely varieties of the same
plant, Amyqdalus persica, but they differ so markedly in their
appearance and flavour that separate classes are always as-
signed to them at horticultural exhibitions ; therefore they are
treated separately here, although their culture and manage-
ment are precisely similar. Among the best varieties for
exhibition are Hale’s Early, Royal George, Stirling Castle,
Dymond, Noblesse, and Sea Hagle. A similar house to that
recommended for the vine, with heating power according to
what is wanted, grows peaches to perfection. If the trees are
well established in good soil, no preparation of a special nature
is necessary, as well-managed old trees in vigorous health will

182 FRUIT.

produce quite as fine fruit as the best of young trees. Should
it be necessary, however, to plant young trees in a fresh
border, care should be taken to select the best varieties worked
on proper stocks, to avoid failure in bearing by some varieties,
and they should be properly planted in a border made of a
sound, medium, turfy loam of a calcareous nature, taking care
to have the border well drained. If the loam is rather light,
it will be improved by an addition of marl or clay, and if defi-
cient in calcareous matter, lime rubbish or similar material may
be added with advantage. Rich borders, causing rank growth,
are quite unsuitable, and ought to be avoided if the greatest
success is desired.

For the earlier shows in May and June it is necessary to
start the Peaches at the beginning of the year, later houses
taking up the succession for July and August, and cool houses
furnishing Peaches for exhibitions in the autumn. The earliest
house should be started in the first week of January to secure
Peaches by the middle or end of May; and at first the night
temperature should not exceed 45”, rising to 60° at mid-day,
with plenty of air on. The trees should be well syringed
morning and evening, and a moist healthy growing atmosphere
maintained. As the trees come into flower the syringing
should be suspended. and a drier air maintained till the crop
is set; but a parching heat must be avoided, as it will cer-
tainly bring on an attack of red spider, one of the worst foes
to the culture of the Peach in hothouses. A daily use of the
camel’s-hair brush, about one o’clock when the flowers are dry,
helps much to secure a free set of early peaches.

To assist the trees in setting a good crop of fruit, strip the
flower-buds from the under-side of the shoots, and keep up
a free circulation of dry air when the flowers are expanded.
When the crop is well set, disbudding should be gradually per-
formed, to prevent crowding and to secure bearing wood for
the following year. Remove all shoots not required, except
those starting from the base of the fruit, which should be
pinched. Thin the fruit when it attains the size of peas to
about double the number to be eventually left to ripen, which
should be in the best position for the sun to colour and flavour

FRUIT. 183

them properly. The cropping of peaches by calculating so
many to the square yard is not a good method to recommend
when the circumstances are so varied and strength of trees so
difficult to define. Young vigorous trees are the better to be
rather heavily cropped, while old trees of moderate growth
would be injured by a similar number per square yard. It
should be remembered that one good-sized peach is better for
any purpose than two small ones, but more especially for exhi-
bition. After the final thinning has been completed, the roots
should be watered if dry, and a good mulching of rich manure
given to assist in feeding and keeping the surface soil sweet
and moist. Syringing should be done in the morning, and
early enough in the afternoon to allow the foliage to get dry
before night ; and if aphides are troublesome, the ordinary solu-
tion of soap and paraffin should be applied. When the fruit
begins to swell, the roots should be supplied with liquid manure
from drainings of the farmyard, and some of the best artificial
manures for fruit-trees. This should be carried on as it is
required till the approach of maturity, when syringing should
cease, and water be withheld as far as possible with safety to
the crop and trees.

The cultivation of Peaches and Nectarines on the open wall
is exactly similar, although trees on walls are not generally
so well attended to as those in houses. The crops on open
walls are very precarious, and cannot be relied upon, even
under the most favourable circumstances of season and climate.
Early varieties are more easily cultivated with success than
late ones. They should be planted on a south wall, kept well
thinned out, and the young shoots trained close to the wall as
they grow. The thorough ripening of the wood and the protec-
tion of the blossom in spring are the chief factors to success
in the culture of the Peach and Nectarine in the open air.

The fruit should be carefully handled in gathering it, be-
cause undue pressure on any part causes a blemish to appear
in a very short time. Shallow boxes to contain a single
layer should be used for packing them for exhibition, and
each fruit, wrapped first in tissue-paper and then in a small
square of cotton-wool, and placed side by side among soft paper

184 FRUIT.

shavings, or any other suitable material, covering and making
all secure with the same.

After the fruit is gathered, and to secure a good crop the
following year, the shoots not required to bear fruit should be
cut clean out, and all laterals from the current year’s growth
cut back to one eye. Syringe the trees to keep them clear of
insects, water the roots, and attend to the ventilation in order
to secure perfectly ripened wood.

The points of merit are: (1.) Size; (2.) luscious flavour ;
and (3.) colour.

THE PEAR.

The Pear is a native of Britain and other parts of Europe
and Asia within the temperate zone. It is said to have been
widely cultivated by the Greeks and Romans more than three
thousand years ago. The warm districts of France seem to suit
the finer varieties to perfection, while the more hardy kinds
produce splendid crops of fine fruit in many districts of Scot-
land. It is also one of the most accommodating of fruits, as
by a careful selection of varieties an excellent supply can be
provided during two-thirds of the year.

Among the best pears grown without the aid of glass for
exhibiting in a ripe state in the autumn are Beurre d’Amanlis,
Fondante d’Automne, Jargonelle, Madame Treyve, Souvenir du
Congres, and Williams’ Bon Chrétien ; and of the later dessert
varieties to be exhibited, ‘‘ripe or unripe,” the following are
excellent: —Bergamotte Esperen, Beurre d’Aremberg, B.
Bachelier, B. Bosc, B. Clairgeau, B. Diel, B. Rance, and B.
Superfin, Doyenne du Comice, Duchesse d’Angouléme, Haster
Beurre, Emile d’Heyst, Glou Morceau, Hacon’s Incomparable,
Josephine de Malines, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Marie Louise,
Ne Plus Meuris, Olivier de Serres, Passe Colmar, Pitmaston
Duchesse, Thompson’s, and Winter Nelis. The best culinary
pears for exhibition are Bellissime d’Hiver, Black Worcester,
Catillac, Uvedale’s St. Germain, Verulam, and Vicar of Wink-
field. The finest variety for competition in each of these three
sections, taking all points into consideration, is probably Jar-
gonelle, Marie Louise, and Catillac.

FRUIT. 185

A deep loamy soil suits the Pear ; therefore, if the natural soil
is unsuitable, it should be taken out, two to three feet deep and
four feet from the wall, filling up with turfy loam of a medium
texture. The trees should be planted in October, four feet
apart, to be trained as upright cordons; and if the soil be
dry, the roots should be watered and mulched. At the winter
pruning the two strongest shoots should be reserved, cut back
to 18 inches in length, and trained horizontally, leaving one
bud six inches from the base, and another at the end of each
shoot. These in time will form the four leading shoots, to be
trained upright about a foot apart. The advantages from this
method are, many varieties in small space, furnishing a large
quantity of fruit in a short time, and the restriction of the
roots enables the cultivator to water and nourish the trees
more easily when it is required. By carefully pinching the
young shoots in summer when two or three inches long, many
spurs and fruit-buds will be formed, which in a few years will
bear a heavy crop of fruit. When the fruit is swelling, it
should be fully exposed to the sun, and the roots receive a
liberal supply of liquid manure, and be top-dressed to bring
the fruit to perfection.

The cultivation of many of the late varieties of pears,
except during exceptionally fine seasons, is not attended with
great success in cold districts: therefore an orchard-house, or
any suitable glass structure, should be provided for them. They
can be grown to a fine size in pots in an orchard-house, vinery,
or peach-house, if not too much shaded by the overhead foliage.
In order to have Beurre Diel, Marie Louise, Pitmaston Duchesse,
or any of the late varieties ripe for autumn shows, they must be
grown in heat. A vinery or early peach-house is suitable for
their culture when grown in pots. Bush-trees of a suitable
size, on the Quince stock, should be lifted from the open
ground in early spring, root-pruned, and potted in 12-inch
pots, using sound turfy loam and crushed bones, Place them
in a light airy position in a peach or orchard house, and after
the growth has been made, put them outside against a south
wall, where they will get thoroughly ripened. During winter

set them in a cool house, and start them with the first vinery

186 FRUIT.

in January. When they come into flower, they should be
removed to a more airy house to set, as they will not do so
readily in a moist atmosphere. When set, place them again
in the vinery where the full light reaches them, and top-dress
with rich soil, bone-meal, or any good artificial manure. When
the fruit is growing freely, weak liquid manure should be given
at every watering. By this treatment pears of a very large
size and fine flavour can be grown and ripened in the same
temperature as the vines.

Old-established trees on high walls, by careful management,
may be put into condition to bear fine exhibition fruit, although
they have for years been neglected. If the spurs be long, they
should be gradually cut close in, extending the operation over
three or four years, when some of the new spurs will begin to
bear. Or by cutting out some of the old branches every year,
and leading in young shoots, the whole tree can be renewed
in a few years. Then by removing some of the soil above the
roots, and working in fresh turf and bone-meal, and by mulch-
ing and feeding, excellent crops of fine fruit will result. The
points of merit are: (1.) Size; (2.) flavour; (3.) shape. In
culinary varieties: (1.) Size; (2.) quality.

THE PINE-APPLE.

This is the handsomest as well as the most delicious of all
the fruits produced in the greatest perfection, by the skill of
the horticulturist, with the aid of modern appliances. It
stands at the head of exhibition fruits, a position which its
noble appearance, luscious mellow flavour, and rich perfume
justly merits, and to the competitor it is an invaluable acquisi-
tion in a collection of the best dessert fruits. Although its
cultivation has rather declined than increased during the past
quarter of a century, it is still considered indispensable in all
well-ordered garden establishments. The erroneous and alto-
gether costly methods of culture formerly in vogue, and even
yet not quite extinct, account in a great measure for the
falling off in the numbers grown of this princely, wholesome,
and useful fruit. When a more rational system of culture is

FRUIT. 187

generally adopted, and the cost of production reduced thereby
to the same amount, or less, than that of other hothouse forced
fruits, it will again become popular, and appear in every
private garden with any pretension to efficiency and com-
pleteness.

The Pine-Apple is stated to be a native of the tropical parts
of South America, but it has been so long introduced to the
East and West Indies that it may be considered quite natura-
lised in them, and thrives in both with great luxuriance and
fertility. In fact, it has now come to be looked upon as one
of the staple fruit products of the West Jndies, and, along
with the Banana, forms the principal item in their rapidly
increasing fruit export trade, from which much prosperity is
anticipated in the future of those fertile islands. It was first
introduced to Britain about 1690, but it was not till the year
1712 that we hear of it being grown for its fruit, about which
time it was successfully fruited by Henry Telende, gardener
to Sir Matthew Decker, at Richmond, Surrey. About twenty
years earlier, Mr. Rose, the royal gardener, is represented in
a well-known picture in the act of presenting a Pine-Apple
to Charles II. as the first grown in England; but no other
record has been found as to how, when, or where it was pro-
duced. In the “ British Gardener’s Dictionary,’ 1744, it is
stated by James Justice that he erected in 1732 a pine-stove
at Crichton, near Dalkeith, Midlothian, in which the Pine-
Apple was fruited for the first time in Scotland. From that
period to the present time it has been cultivated with the
greatest skill and assiduity, and, with the help of improved
appliances, it has been brought to such a high state of per-
fection as to rival the very finest produce of tropical countries,
and to excel it in the important points of size and flavour in
the finest specimens and best kinds.

Most kinds of Pine-Apples are, when well grown, suitable
for exhibition, but at the present time exhibitors confine their
selection to a few popular varieties. Among these, the Smooth
Cayenne holds the leading place as an exhibition fruit, chiefly
because of the ease and certainty with which it can be pro-
duced at all seasons of the year, and that, added to its fine

188 FRUIT.

size, handsome appearance, and excellent quality, makes it a
favourite with all growers for competition. Next in popular
favour is the Queen, which, when well grown and in its best
condition, is a first-class fruit of the finest flavour and quality.
After these a number of varieties are held in much the same
esteem by competitors. For quality and richness of flavour,
Black Jamaica still stands unrivalled ; but as it seldom exceeds
three pounds in weight in well-grown fruits, with neat small
crowns, it is liable to be passed as undersized when exhibited
in competition with large and well-finished specimens of other
kinds of fair quality. One of the best of those latter is Char-
lotte Rothschild, a fruit very similar in all respects to the
Smooth Cayenne, except that it has spines on the edges of its
leaves, and on their merits the Smooth Cayenne is the most
useful. Among others seen most frequently at exhibitions
are Black Prince and Lord Carrington, two easily grown and
fertile varieties, the first being a very tall conical fruit, re-
quiring a high temperature and bright sunshine to ripen it all
at the same time. Lord Carrington is also a conical fruit, and
when at its best it makes a handsome specimen, although
neither it nor Black Prince are to be compared in fine qualities
to the four previously named varieties. When size alone is the
desired object, a fully developed Providence Pine generally
beats all competitors, and for this purpose it must be grown
with the greatest possible vigour on a thoroughly matured
plant to produce a fruit of the largest size and finest build.
It takes two years or more to grow a proper plant that can be
relied upon to givea fine fruit, and it must be carefully tended
throughout to ensure success. Beyond its gigantic propor-
tions the Providence has very little to recommend it, even at
its best.

In the culture of the Pine-Apple a comparatively small
amount of labour and attention is required, so long as they are
given at the proper time, and all appliances are suitable and
adequate. A hip-roofed house makes the best pine-stove, so
constructed that the plants are close to the glass when full
grown. The heating appliances must be ample for the work,
to supply with ease the top and bottom heat in all states of

FRUIT. 189

the weather. The Pine is now generally grown in pots, and
for all practical purposes it is undoubtedly the best system
when properly carried out; but some very successful growers
in bygone times preferred to grow them planted out in beds
specially made up for the purpose, believing that they obtained
larger fruit than from plants grown in pots. With more expe-
rience, there is good reason to doubt the supposed advantages
of the planted-out over the pot-grown plants, all things being
equal; but as soil and culture apply equally to both systems,
growers may choose the method which suits them best.

In planting them out, strong well-rooted succession plants
should be inserted in prepared beds of sound mellow loam, of
a light or medium texture, with a free sprinkling of finely
broken-up dry cow, sheep, deer, or pigeon dung—all are suit-
able in a dry state—soot, and bone-meal, making the soil quite
firm around the plants. If the soil is in a proper state, no
water will be required till the plants begin to push out fresh
roots, when the soil will be in a condition to receive a thorough
soaking, and no more should be given until the plants show to
an experienced eye that they require it. If deluged unneces-
sarily with water, the soil sours and the plants grow soft and
flabby in the leaves, and are difficult to get to show fruit,
which is usually deficient in both size and quality. In conse-
quence, liquid manure and rich top-dressings have to be used
with the greatest caution ; but a judicious application of these
when the fruit is swelling is advantageous.

In pot-culture, which, with modern appliances, is the best
for producing first-class fruit all the year round, similar soil
is used, potting moderately firm, but not ramming it so “hard
as pavement,” as practised by some with no good result. For
fruiting the Black Jamaica, Queen, and other varieties of
moderate growth, 10 to 11-inch pots are quite sufficient for
growing the largest plants to produce the finest fruits. For
Smooth Cayenne, Charlotte Rothschild, and the like, 12 to 13-
inch pots are ample; and even for the strongest growers, such
as Black Prince and Providence, 13-inch pots, with proper
attention, will produce finer fruit within a given time than
pots of several sizes larger. All pots require to be well drained,

190 FRUIT.

and the drainage covered with moss or similar material, to
keep the soil out of it, as nothing is so detrimental to success
as stagnant moisture at the root of a pine plant. To com-
mence with, it is necessary to secure strong healthy suckers,
and from these first-class exhibition fruit may be had in about
eighteen months from the time they are inserted in the sucker
pots. After the fruit is cut, if the suckers are not large
enough, they should be allowed to remain on the stool till
they are at least 18 inches in length, as, with plenty of water
and a growing atmosphere, they will make more growth in one
month on the stool than they will in three months in small
pots, if they are taken off before they are tolerably firm and
beginning to push roots from the base. If room is required,
the stools can be removed and set close together in the succes-
sion or sucker pit, which suits them admirably. As soon as the
suckers are ready they should be carefully removed from plants
bearing fruit, by placing the hand near the base and drawing
them off with a sharp twist, without injury to the leaves. Then
put them into seven-inch pots in the same compost as already
described, making it firm around the base of the sucker. Place
them in a close pit, with the pots plunged to the rim in tanner’s
spent bark or fresh leaves, and give no water for a week, or more
in dull cold weather, and only shade them from bright sunshine.
In about ten days the roots will be pushing freely, when the
plants should receive a thorough watering, and the shading
be gradually dispensed with. The bottom-heat should range
about 85°, with an air temperature of about 70° at night,
rising 10° to 15° during the day, with a free circulation of air
whenever the thermometer touches 80°. Pines require all the
light and air that can be given them in this country, and
thrive best when grown in a dry, clear, warm atmosphere,
mellowed with all the fresh air possible, so that the necessary
temperature is maintained.

In about three months, if all has gone on well, the pots
will be well filled with roots, and should be liberally treated
with clear liquid manure to maintain a vigorous growth till it
is convenient to shift them, which should be done within the
next six weeks, placing them at once-in their fruiting pots, of

FRUIT. 191

the sizes already mentioned, potting them firmly, and. again
plunging them to the rim in a bark bed. With three to four
months of the same treatment—a due amount of heat at top
and bottom, careful watering, a dry atmosphere, and giving all
the light and air possible—the plants will have made fine
sturdy growth and filled their pots with roots. They are now
ready to be placed in the pine-stove or fruiting-house, and
should be top-dressed with a rich compost of turfy loam, bone-
meal, soot, and dry animal droppings rubbed down and sifted
fine, all well mixed together and laid about an inch thick on
the surface of the soil. Due attention must now be paid to
watering, and as the pots are full of active roots, liquid
manure should be given, which may be made from sheep,
deer, or pigeon dung, soot, and guano, placed in a tub or
old barrel filled up with boiling water, well stirred, and
then allowed to cool and settle before being used. An occa-
casional sprinkling of a good fertiliser on the surface of
the soil is also beneficial The water should always be
poured on to the surface of the soil, and not into the axils
of the leaves, where it is not required. In about a year after
the suckers have been put in, the plants will have attained
a fine vigorous stocky size for fruiting, and by withholding
water from them for three or four weeks—or about double
that period in winter—and then giving them a thorough soak-
ing with tepid water and slightly increasing the bottom-heat,
they will immediately send up their fruit. The plants must
now be regularly watered, but no stimulant given till each
plant has done flowering, after which liquid manure or ferti-
lisers may be applied at every watering with good results
while the fruit is swelling. As the fruit nears maturity and
begins to show colour, watering should be discontinued, as a
plant in robust health will finish its fruit to perfection and of
a brighter colour without farther stimulating. From ten days
to a fortnight will ripen and colour a Pine-Apple in bright
weather, but it may take a month in dull wintry weather. If
a fruit is ripening too soon for the show, it may be cut a few
days before it would be quite ripe and hung up in a dry fruit-
room, where it will ripen and keep sound for two or three

192 FRUIT.

weeks without much loss in quality or freshness. The starting
of the plants should, however, be so timed as to bring the fruit
to full maturity and perfection as near to the date of the show
as possible, as a fresh fruit is superior to a stale one. In
proper pine-stoves, and under ordinary circumstances, Pines
take about four months to reach maturity from the time the
fruit appears till it is ripe; in summer a little less, but in
winter two or three weeks more.

From the time the sucker is inserted till the fruit is ripe,
the plants must be kept moving steadily, with the roots healthy
and more or less active. If the roots become unhealthy from
any cause, it seriously interferes with the fertility of the plant
and the size and quality of the fruit, and special care must
therefore be taken that they are in a good healthy medium,
neither too dry nor too wet. When growing freely in spring
and summer, a thorough watering once a week keeps them in
perfect health. Towards the end of autumn they will not re-
quire it so often, and Queen Pines thrive best when they receive
no water from October till they are started in December
or January for ripe fruit in May and June. Black Jamaica,
Smooth Cayenne, and others of the same nature require to be
kept moister at the roots in winter, and every individual plant
must then be closely watched, and water given to it only when
it is necessary. By keeping the roots always healthy, the air
dry and sweet, and giving all the light, heat, and air possible
without causing cold draughts, Pine-Apples can be grown to
the highest state of perfection and at the least cost. They are
seldom grown specially for exhibition, but a few of the finest
young fruits will well repay a little extra attention while they
are swelling, when competition is in view.

It is usual to divide Pines into two or more classes in the
prize lists of flower-shows,—the Queen and Smooth Cayenne
each having a separate class, a distinction which their merits
deserve, in the same manner as the Muscat of Alexandria and
Black Hamburgh among grapes. A third class is generally
provided for “any other variety,” in which the large coarse
varieties, such as Black Prince and Providence, frequently
appear, to the exclusion of the smaller, but far richer, Black

FRUIT. 193

Jamaica, the finest flavoured of all Pines, Charlotte Rothschild,
St. Vincent, Ripley, and others of excellent quality.

The points of merit in a Pine-Apple are: (1.) Size, hand-
some shape, and a moderate-sized crown; (2.) rich flavour,
ripe and sound, with flat, well-swelled pips; and (3.) colour,
which should be the same from top to bottom, clear and fresh.

THE PLUM.

This is one of the most useful and productive of our hardy
fruits, and is more cultivated in this country than any other
fruit-tree, the apple alone excepted. It is a native of Asia
Minor, but is naturalised in most of the temperate parts of
Europe. In Britain it has been cultivated for its fruit for
several centuries, and it has followed the spread of civilisa-
tion to all the temperate regions of the earth. :

As an exhibition fruit, it fills a prominent place in a collec-
tion of hardy kinds, and a first-rate dish of Plums is a strong
point in any collection of fruit. In competition, several classes
are usually allotted to Plums, each having a well-defined char-
acter, such as the following :—

1. Dessert Plums, GAGES, some of the best of which for exhibition
are:—Brahy’s Green Gage, Decaisne, Green Gage, Oullin’s
Golden Gage, Reine Claude de Bavay, and Transparent Gage.

2. Dessert Plums, NoT GaGES ; among the best are :—Coe’s Golden
Drop, Denniston’s Superb, Jefferson, Kirke’s, Lawson’s Golden,
and Washington.

3. Culinary Plums; among the finest are: — Diamond,’ Goliath,
Ponda’s Seedling, Prince Englebert, Victoria, and White Magnum
Bonum.

4. Damson Plums, including all Plums under an inch in diameter,
such as King and Prune Damsons, Burnet, Mirabelle, Mussel,
and Quetche Plums.

The Plum is easily cultivated, and thrives well in almost
any good soil well drained and of a warm nature. It suc-
ceeds in the open as a bush or a standard, but for exhibition
purposes a wall is necessary to bring the finer varieties to
perfection. Fan-training is the mode generally adopted, but
where room for large trees is scarce, they may be grown as

cordons with considerable success. Old trees should have their
N

194 FRUIT.

branches freely thinned out, and young wood laid in at six or
eight inches apart, as the best fruit is obtained from well-
ripened young wood. The fruit should be well thinned as soon
as it can be done with safety; neglect of which deteriorates
the crop and spoils the prospects of another season. Liberal
supplies of liquid manure and a sprinkling of some of. the
best fertilisers should be given in dry weather when the fruit
is swelling, so that it may obtain a large size; and afterwards
mulch the ground to preserve the roots, which run near the
surface, and are liable to be injured in dry hot weather. All
young wood not required to form the tree should be pinched
at the third leaf, and the shoots wanted to fill the space care-
fully trained to the wall. When the fruit is ripening it should
be fully exposed to the sun, so that its best qualities may be
brought to perfection.

The points of merit in dessert plums are: (1.) Size; (2.)
flavour ; and (3.) colour. The same points of merit apply to
the culinary varieties, although flavour is not of so much
importance as size, thick flesh, and a small stone.

THE RASPBERRY.

The Raspberry belongs to the genus Rubus, and is a native
of the temperate regions of Europe and Asia. It is very dis-
tinct in its habit, fruit, and the duration of its wood. The
best of the red varieties are Antwerp, Baumforth’s Seedling,
Carter’s Prolific, Fastolf, Northumberland Fillbasket, and
Superlative ; and of the yellow, Antwerp and Magnum Bonun.
The Raspberry grows freely in the same soil as the Gooseberry,
and enjoys a slight shade from the sun during the hottest part
of the day. A position three feet from the north side of a
not too high wall suits it well. The ground should be deeply
trenched and well manured, and the canes planted three feet
apart, placing three together, and afterwards cutting them
down to one foot from the ground. By encouraging the
growth of strong well-ripened canes, the plants should be
established and able to bear good exhibition fruit the third
year after planting. The old canes should be cut out in

FRUIT. 195

autumn, and the young ones tied in bundles of four in the
form of an arch, or they may be tied singly to a trellis. The
chief points in their culture for exhibition are to keep the canes
thin, the surface roots intact, and to feed them liberally. The
points of merit are: (1.) Size; (2.) flavour ; and (3.) colour.

THE STRAWBERRY.

The Strawberry is a fruit that is widely cultivated, highly
valued, and unique, in respect that its fine aroma and delicious
flavour is appreciated by every one. It belongs to the genus
Fragaria, some species of which are indigenous to Britain and
Europe, while others are of American origin, which, by cross-
ing and recrossing, have given rise to most of the varieties
now cultivated. Some of the best kinds for exhibition are
Elton Pine, Frogmore Late Pine, James Veitch, Lucas, Pre-
sident, and Sir Joseph Paxton. Certain varieties thrive and
fruit well in almost any soil, while others refuse even to grow
on the same ground; but as a rule they all succeed tolerably
well on a loamy soil of medium character which is retentive
of moisture but well drained. The ground should be trenched
two feet deep, with plenty of well-decomposed manure incor-
porated among it. The best fruit is obtained from two year
old plants, but excellent fruit may be gathered the first year
after planting when that is done in August, especially if the
young plants have been well rooted in small pots, and planted
out of them with the balls intact. Three feet is a fair distance
to give them between the rows, and 15 inches between the
plants.

Watering the plants in dry weather and keeping the ground
clean is all that is needed till early summer, when the runners
should be removed as they grow, and the roots supplied with
liquid manure after the fruit is set. In order to obtain fruit
of the highest colour and flavour, the bunches should be
thinned and kept well up among the foliage by means of
a small hoop supported on stakes from six to eight inches
in height. By this method of giving them all the light
possible, the most difficult varieties to colour are brought to

196 FRUIT.

the highest perfection. In preparing for the second year’s
crop, which should be the most abundant, the same treatment
should be given along with a surface dressing of rich manure,
and some good artificial fertilisers to assist in perfecting a
heavy crop. Strawberries are largely grown and exhibited
by amateurs, who tend them with the greatest care, and watch
the development of the fruit with as keen interest as they do
the opening flower of the seedling pansy, and no care or
trouble is spared to secure a favourable verdict to the object
of their choice.

The forcing of strawberries for spring and early summer
shows is a process requiring skill and care to ensure success.
Some of the best varieties for this purpose are Auguste Nicaise,
James Veitch, Keen’s Seedling, La Grosse Sucrée, President,
and Vicomtesse Héricart de Thury. Strong runners should
be layered as early in the season as possible, in small pots,
among sandy loam and leaf-mould. As soon as they are well
rooted, repot into six-inch pots, using a compost of old fibry
loam and a fourth of well-rotted hot-bed manure, to which
a sprinkling of bone-meal, sharp sand, and wood-ashes may be
added. Set the plants in rows in an open space, protect the
pots from strong sun, and to promote strong growth give occa-
sional waterings with weak liquid manure. Give them protec-
tion in winter from hard frost, and keep the soil moist to
preserve the foliage as long as possible. Introduce them to a
temperature of 50° at night about three months before the fruit
is wanted; keep them close to the glass, and raise the heat to
60° as the season advances. Thin out, and stake the flower
trusses, give plenty of air in favourable weather, and liquid
manure to assist in swelling the fruit. Strong crowns, slowly
forced, with plenty of air, light, and moisture, with judi-
cious feeding, should produce a crop of fine fruit, which early
in the season is highly valued. The points of merit are:
(1.) Size and form; (2.) flavour; and (3.) colour.

DIVISION IV.
VEGETABLES.

Turs is by no means the least important division in an exhibi-
tion of horticultural produce, and although it is not so showy
and generally attractive as the flowers and fruits, it affords
much interest and instruction to the public, and is a field for
the keenest competition among horticulturists. The know-
ledge of how to grow vegetables to perfection is of the utmost
importance to all who cultivate a bit of ground, from the
smallest allotment of the cottager to the extensive culinary
department of a county magnate’s garden establishment, where
the very best of everything is a sine gud non; and although
the following directions are specially designed for growing
specimens for exhibition, they are equally applicable to the
cultivation of ordinary vegetables. In mentioning the best
varieties of the different classes of vegetables, only well-
known types, as a rule, have been selected, because it is
scarcely possible to name varieties which would do equally
well under all circumstances in every part of the country,
but they may afford a guide to the inexperienced beginner
and the amateur. All experienced competitors have their
own select varieties, which they cultivate with indomitable
perseverance and skill, to secure the highest awards in com-
petition.
THE GLOBE ARTICHOKE.

The varieties of this vegetable in cultivation are the Green
and Purple with different strains from each of more or less
merit. To procure first-rate fleshy heads of the Globe Arti-
choke, a strong rich soil and an open situation are required.
Plants should be divided and planted three feet apart in fresh

soil. All the small shoots should be cut away, and two or
197

198 VEGETABLES.

three strong crowns left to each plant. Protection should be
afforded to the plants in winter by placing dry leaves and
litter around them, which should be removed in spring, and
a good dressing of rotted manure forked into the soil without
disturbing the roots. As soon as the heads are formed
they should be thinned, leaving one on each stalk. The plants
should then be watered with liquid manure, to increase the
size of the head. They should be exhibited when fully de-
veloped, but close and firm. The points of merit are: (1.)
Size of head; (2.) substance of the bracts; (3.) colour (green
preferred) and fitness for use.

THE JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.

This is an excellent winter vegetable, which can be appro-
priately exhibited in either autumn or spring. It should not
be cultivated on strong rich ground, because the top growth
attains great dimensions, while the roots are generally small
and badly formed. A rather sandy soil should be chosen in
a position sheltered from wind, but well exposed to the sun.
The best-formed medium-sized roots should be planted during
March in rows three feet apart and 18 inches between the sets.
Under these conditions, and with frequent drenchings of liquid
manure when the tubers are swelling, large, clean, well-shaped
roots should be formed. When the stems have reached four to
five feet in height, they should be stopped, and the side-shoots
kept close in by pinching. The points of merit are: (1.) Size;
(2) form; and (3.) an even sample of tubers.

THE ASPARAGUS.

The Asparagus cannot be grown successfully in every kind
of soil Where the natural soil is unsuitable a bed should
be made up of rich friable loam and well-decomposed manure.
Two of the best for exhibition are the Giant and Connover’s
Colossal. To secure large heads, the plants should be thin
on the ground. A heavy dressing of salt should be given
to the beds in spring before the heads appear, and sprinklings
of guano and nitrate of potash alternately in moist weather

VEGETABLES. 199

during growth are very beneficial. Cutting should cease by
the middle of June at latest, after which the strongest
shoots should be carefully preserved, and staked if necessary,
to prevent them being swayed about and broken by the wind,
the weak ones being cut away as they appear. As soon as
the shoots are ripe in autumn they should be cut over, and
the ground covered with six inches of stable litter and leaves.
The points of merit in Asparagus are: (1.) Length and thick-
ness of the stalk ; (2.) the head close; and (3.) all of an equal
size and fit for use.

THE BROAD BEAN.

Three of the best varieties of Broad Beans fox exhibition are
Aquadulce, Leviathan, and Seville. They require a rich stiff
soil, well worked and pulverised, to grow in. Seed should be
sown at three or four different times between the beginning
of February and the end of May, in drills five inches deep and
two feet apart. Earth should be drawn up to the tops of the
earliest ones when they appear above ground, to protect them
from frosty winds. When the plants have reached the height
of four feet they should be topped, and the pods thinned to five
or six of the best formed, equally divided up the stem. A
mulching should be given to them after being watered with
weak liquid manure, an operation which should be attended to
often in dry weather. By careful thinning and feeding, pods
of great length, containing extra large beans, should be pro-
duced. The points of merit are: (1.) Length and breadth of
pods, which should be all equal and dark green in colour ;
(2.) number and size of beans, which should be in the best
condition for use.

THE FRENCH BEAN.

A high-class vegetable, and when in its most perfect state
about equal to the pea as an exhibition dish. The best varie-
ties for that purpose are Canadian Wonder and Ne Plus Ultra.
If they are required to be grown under glass, the latter is the
best for exhibition. French Beans thrive in a rich warm soil,
and to have them in their best condition, they should be sown

200 VEGETABLES.

in prepared trenches similar to peas. The first sowing should
be made early in May, and be followed by others at intervals
of a fortnight till the middle of June. The beans should be
planted singly, at about 4} inches apart, and half of them
pulled up when all are safe above ground, giving each plant
left nine inches in the row, with 24 feet between the rows. The
plants should receive a copious supply of water in dry weather,
giving weak liquid manure when the pods are swelling. If
the pods are too forward for the show, they must be removed
before they attain full size, so that those coming in at the
proper time may receive the full benefit of the vigour of the
plant.

The points of merit are: (1.) Size; (2.) quality, young and
tender, and showing no fibre when broken across; and (3.)
appearance, smooth and equal in length and shape, and of a
bright green colour.

THE RUNNER BEAN.

Two fine exhibition varieties are Jubilee and Scarlet Cham-
pion. The cultivation of the runner is similar to that recom-
mended for the general crop of French Beans, except that long
stakes or a trellis should be provided for their support. The
pods should be thinned out, and never be allowed to get old
on the plant. The points of merit are the same as those in
the French Beans.

THE BEET.

There are many varieties of Beet, each raiser claiming supe-
riority for his special production. Carter’s Perfection, Prag-
nell’s Exhibition, and Frisby’s Excelsior are among the best
for exhibition. Beet requires a light soil, free from vegetable
matter, to grow in, with some rich manure about a foot from
the surface. Seed should be sown in April and May, in drills
18 inches, and the plants thinned to nine inches apart. The
points of merit are: (1.) Size and smoothness of the root;
(2.) flesh crisp, free from fibre, and when ‘cut the sap should
‘“‘pbleed” or ooze; and (3.) colour dark with the circles wide
apart, and all of the same colour.

VEGETABLES. 201

THE BORECOLE OR KALE.

The Kale is a winter.vegetable of much importance, espe-
cially in the northern parts of the kingdom. There are many
varieties of the dwarf curled, each grower selecting and naming
his own strain, which is the best way to ensure its being kept
true. The cultivation of Borecole is extremely simple; it only
requires a rich soil and plenty of room. Seed should be sown
in a frame in the beginning of March for an early supply, but
for autumn and winter a sowing should be made on a sheltered
border in the middle of March, and the seedlings thinned early
to prevent the plants being drawn. As soon as the plants
are four inches high, plant out two feet apart each way. Water
in extra dry weather, giving weak liquid manure occasionally
to increase the size of the head. The plants should be cut
clean across below the leaves, and the stems stuck in pots
amongst wet sand for exhibition. The points of merit are:
(1.) Size of head and number of leaves, the older ones slightly
arching ; and (2.) the leaves dark or light green, succulent,
and densely curled.

THE BROCCOLI.

The many varieties, both early and late, of this fine vege-
table furnish a long succession of heads for autumn, winter,
and spring exhibitions. To provide a supply for each of these
periods, seeds of Walcheren and Veitch’s Self- Protecting
should be sown thinly in April to produce heads for the
autumn ; Backhouse’s Winter and Snow's Superb for winter,
and Niddrie Protecting and Veitch’s Model for spring and
early summer; sowing these at intervals of two weeks from
the middle of April till the end of May. After the plants
are large enough to handle, they should be pricked out four
inches apart on a bed of fine soil and leaf-mould until they
are large enough to be finally planted out.

Broccoli thrives best in a rich loam, which should be deeply
dug and well trodden to firm it. Previous to planting, a dress-
ing of salt and soot should be pointed into the surface for the
destruction of maggot and other pests.

202 VEGETABLES.

The plants should be lifted from the bed with balls of
earth, planted in rows three feet apart and two feet between
the plants, and watered if the soil is dry. The space between
the rows should be occupied with spinach, lettuce, or turnips
where ground is scarce. The advantage of wide planting is
observed after a cold winter has passed. The autumn and
spring Broccoli should be assisted to make large heads after
they are formed, by frequent applications of liquid manure.
When the heads appear, they should be protected from light
and frost. When cut with along stem, they can be preserved
for two weeks in a dark cellar, and the colour improved by
the keeping.

The points of merit are: (1.) Size and symmetry of the
head ; and (2.) closeness and pureness of the “curd,” which
should be free from “ froth.”

THE BRUSSELS SPROUT.

There are many so-called varieties of this fine vegetable,
but it is rare to find them true to description, from the want of
sufficient care being taken in the selection of the plants from
which the seed was obtained. A grower for competition should
select a few of his best plants every third year, lift and plant
them at the foot of a wall as far away as possible from other
flowering plants of the brassica tribe. When the seed is ripe, it
should be rubbed out, preserved dry, and sown on a gentle hot-
bed during the first week in March. The seedlings should be
pricked out and hardened off by the end of April, when they
should be planted out two feet apart on well-prepared ground,
which is inclined to be heavy rather than light. Liquid
manure should be given after the sprouts are formed, and
the plants never allowed to want for water during dry
weather. The plants should be lifted when wanted, the
lower leaves trimmed neatly off, and then potted with a few
of the roots attached. By this method the plants are kept
fresh, and their parts better exposed than when they are
tied together in bundles. When sprouts are exhibited as a
dish, the best only, and all of equal size, should be selected.

VEGETABLES. 203

The points of merit are: (1.) Size and number of sprouts on
the stem ; (2.) equality in size; and (3.) closeness and firm-
ness of the sprouts.

THE CABBAGE.

Although one of the commonest of all vegetables, the Cab-
bage is by no means an unimportant item in an exhibition
collection, when it is set up in its very best condition. The
best variety for early shows is a good strain of Early York,
and the best for autumn shows is Winningstadt, with any good
strain of Red Cabbage for pickling.

The Cabbage thrives best in a strong rich loam, and in
inferior soils it must receive extra liberal treatment to make
up the deficiency. Seed of Early York should be sown on
a warm border about the middle of August, and again a fort-
night later. Plants from these sowings will be ready to set out
in October and the following February. Seed of both Early
York and Winningstadt should be sown in the same manner
in February, and every fortnight till May, to keep up a suc-
cession of fresh succulent heads during the exhibition season.
The same treatment as applied to the Cauliflower suits the
Cabbage admirably. The points of merit are: (1.) Quality,
the leaves should be thick and succulent, and closely turned
in; (2.) form, which should be more or less conical, not flat-
topped nor oblong shaped ; (3.) Size, firmness, and weight.

THE CARROT.

When clean and well grown, the Carrot is an important dish
in a first-rate collection of vegetables. It grows to great per-
fection in certain soils without any trouble, while in others it
completely baffles the best skill to make it thrive. The most
certain method to command success is to provide the proper
soil for it. The best varieties for exhibition are Early Horn,
Nantes, and a good strain of Intermediate. Clean sharp sand
from the sea-shore is the best medium in which to grow carrots
to perfection, but if it cannot be easily obtained, river or pit
sand will do. It should be placed in a wide trench or bed

204 VEGETABLES.

16 to 18 inches in depth, and enriched with dressings of salt
and liquid manure poured over it during the winter. Fork it
over loosely before sowing the seed in shallow drills, 15 inches
apart, early in April. Thin the plants in due time to six or
eight inches apart, according to the variety, and keep them
always clear of weeds. Apply weak liquid manure in dry wea-
ther, and sprinkle guano or any good artificial manure among
them on showery days. The points of merit are: (1.) Size,
which should be large of its kind; (2.) form, which should be
smooth and symmetrical ; and (3.) quality, the flesh should be
crisp and tender, bright red in colour, and the core small,

THE CAULIFLOWER.

While Cauliflower is in season it is indispensable in a collec-
tion, and when in its best condition takes a leading place among
vegetables. The best varieties for exhibition in succession are
Snowball, Eclipse, and Autumn Giant.

If required early, a sowing should be made in boxes in a
gentle heat about the end of February, and care must be taken
that the young plants do not become drawn, or want for water
while they are under glass. When large enough to handle,
they should be pricked off at three inches apart in boxes of
rich soil Gradually harden off, and plant out as soon as all
danger from frost is past, always being careful that the plants
receive no check from any cause, which is apt to make them
“button.” Successional sowings must be made in the open air
about every fortnight from March to May, and the plants
treated as carefully as those raised under glass. A strong
loam, heavily dressed with well-made manure, grows the finest
Cauliflower, and where the soil is light and poor, special care
should be taken to improve its quality, by adding good loam
and an extra quantity of manure. When ready for planting
out, the young plants should be carefully lifted with a good ball
around the roots, and planted with a trowel, so as to injure
them as little as possible. Settle the soil around them and
give a good watering. Repeat the watering every few days
if the weather is dry, and when the heads begin to form, liquid

VEGETABLES. 205

manure should be freely applied to develop them to their
finest proportions. As the heads expand, be careful to shade
them from the sun by bending the leaves closely over them,
to exclude the light and preserve their pure white colour.
Should they come too early for the show, they may be pre-
served for a short time in a tolerably fresh state by being
pulled up by the roots, and hung, heads down, in a dark cool
place. In judging, the points of merit are: (1.) Form, which
should be globular and regular in outline; (2.) size; and
(3.) colour, which should be pure white.

THE CELERY.

This vegetable in its best form is one of the strongest
articles in a collection, and as a single dish it takes first
rank, especially when produced, solid and crisp, in early
autumn, 18 inches in length of blanched stalks, and 15 inches
round them. Wright’s Giant White and Manchester Red are
excellent varieties for exhibition. Seed should be sown in
boxes in the middle of February, and placed in a mild hot-
bed, or in a pit with a night temperature of 55°. As soon as
they are fit to handle, they should be pricked out, about four
inches apart, on a gentle hotbed or in boxes, using rich friable
loam, and being careful never to allow the plants to become
dry at the root, which is exceedingly prejudicial. Towards
the end of April the plants should be nice stocky stuff, and
should be gradually exposed to the air by pulling the sashes
off the frame more or less daily according to the weather,
until they are quite hardened off, and ready for planting out
in the trenches.

For growing exhibition celery, a sheltered place lying in
the full sun should be chosen. The ground should be well
drained, naturally or artificially, and the trenches prepared
some time before they are required. For a single row of
plants, the trench should be 15 inches wide and 18 inches deep,
removing any bad soil that may be turned up, and filling the
trench with one foot in depth of the following compost: one-half
sound turfy loam, and the other half of equal parts of well-

206 VEGETABLES.

rotted manure, leaf-mould, night-soil, wood-ashes, and sand.
Carefully lift the plants with a hand-fork, to preserve the ball
as whole as possible, and plant them in the trench at one foot
apart. Press the earth lightly around them, and then give a
thorough soaking of water to settle the soil around the roots.
After the plants are dry, place a piece of thick brown paper
around the stalks of each (leaving the tops free), which will
‘support them and prevent the soil getting in the heart of the
plant, and assist in the blanching of the stalks. A little earth
should be drawn up around the paper to keep it in position.
If the weather is dry, copious waterings are necessary to
ensure a free firm growth. In a few weeks they will be grow-
ing freely, and will require earthing up. The paper “collar”
should be slipped up, and the stalks being all in proper posi-
tion, a little dry sawdust or sand should be placed closely
around them, and banked up with the earth dug out of the
trench. When the plants are growing freely, weak liquid
manure and top-dressings of artificial manures are beneficial ;
but discretion is required not to overdo the use of stimulants.
Manures in excess produce coarse rank stalks, worthless, as a
rule, for exhibition purposes. Good rich soil, with a moderate
amount of manure, and a judiciously regulated supply of liquid
and artificial manures during growth, produce the best results,
In dry warm weather the plants are refreshed by a sprinkling
from a watering-pot in the evening, scattering a little common
salt among the plants previous to the sprinkling. Earthing
should be carefully attended to till the stems are blanched to
the desired length, which, however, should never be obtained
at the sacrifice of girth, the first object being thick, solid,
crisp stalks, and then length of blanched stem.

The points of merit are: (1.) Size (length and girth) of
blanched portion ; (2.) quality (solidity and crispness) ; (3.)
flavour, a rich “nutty” flavour being preferred. No “bolted”
celery should receive an award.

THE CUCUMBER.

Among the best varieties of the Cucumber for exhibition
are Duke of Edinburgh, Telegraph, Tender and True, and Ver-

VEGETABLES. 207

dant Green. They are easily grown in a glass frame set on a
hotbed, where fine specimens may be obtained with the aid of
glass tubes to keep them straight and shapely. The best
method, however, of obtaining clean, straight, and handsome
specimens is by growing them in a properly constructed
cucumber-house, where the plants are trained on wires near
the roof, and the Cucumbers hang down from them, clear of
all contact, and fully exposed to plenty of light and air. Seed
should be sown in light rich soil, in a high temperature
from ten to twelve weeks before the produce is wanted; and
as soon as the plants are in the rough leaf, the seedlings
should be potted singly and grown till they are about a foot
high, when they should be planted out on small hills of light
fibry loam and leaf-mould, and the house kept at a tem-
perature of 70° at night, with abundance of moisture in the
atmosphere, and shading from sunshine when necessary. The
plants should grow quickly and show fruit within three weeks,
which should be thinned to a few of the most promising which
are likely to be at their best on the date of the show. The
growth must be kept well thinned out, and the bearing shoots
stopped at the leaf beyond the fruit. Those coming too early
should be removed in time, to conserve the energies of the
plant for the production of the exhibition specimens, which
are much benefited by frequent doses of liquid manure when
they are swelling. For exhibition, fruits of the same size and
appearance should be chosen; and in handling and packing,
every care should be taken to preserve the bloom intact. The
points of merit are: (1.) Equal size and shape; (2.) fresh and
dark-green in colour; and (3.) the bloom perfect.

THE ENDIVE.

There are many varieties of this useful vegetable, all raised
from the broad and curled leaved, The latter makes the finest-
looking head for exhibition, and should be cultivated for that
purpose. Seeds of both the green and white curled should be

own on a rich border in May and in June for succession. As
soon as the plants are large enough, they should be transplanted
nto rows 18 inches apart, and one foot between the plants,

208 VEGETABLES.

upon a deep free soil that has been previously well manured, To
promote rapid growth for the production of tender succulent
leaves, frequent waterings should be given as soon as the plants
get established, using drainings of the manure heap alter-
nately with clear soft water. When the plants are about full
grown, the blanching should be proceeded with, while watering
with liquid manure should cease. The simplest mode of blanch-
ing is by placing pots or seakale covers over the plants, which
should be done about three weeks before the heads are wanted,
when the plants should be carefully lifted and put into 7-inch
pots for exhibition. The points of merit are : (1.) Size of head ;
(2.) closeness of heart, with leaves well curled; and (3.) well
blanched and tender. -

THE HORSE-RADISH.

This useful perennial presents no choice of varieties, but
possesses within itself, when well grown, all the qualities that
can be desired for the purposes for which it is used. To obtain
large clean roots for exhibition, a trench 18 inches wide and
deep should be dug in March, into which six inches of well-
rotted manure should be dug. The surface soil should then
be replaced, and holes made one foot deep and the same apart,
into which strong clean pieces 12 inches long with the crown
left on should be dropped. The soil should then be firmed
and watered if dry. The roots should be lifted when they
are wanted, the leaves and small roots trimmed off, washed,
and tied in bundles for exhibition. The points of merit are:
(1.) Length and thickness; and (2.) straight, clean roots.

THE LEEK.

When grown in its best form, the Leek forms a conspicuous
feature in a collection of vegetables. The best varieties for
exhibition are The Lyon and Renton’s Monarch. Leeks for ex-
hibition should be sown in heat about the middle of February.
The best method is to fill as many 34-inch pots as may be re-
quired with light rich soil, in which about half-a-dozen seeds
should be placed. When about three inches high, the best
plant should be selected, and all the others pulled out. As
soon as the roots fill the soil, the plants should be transferred

VEGETABLES. 209

to six-inch pots, and grown on in a night temperature of 55”.
Early in May they should be gradually hardened off, prepara-
tory to being planted out. Trenches should be prepared for
them in the same manner and with the same materials as for
Celery, and after planting out they require exactly the same
treatment—watering, top-dressing, and earthing-up—to bring
them to the highest perfection. ‘The points of merit are:
(1.) Size or length and girth of blanched portion ; (2.) shape,
which should be cylindrical, without any bulge at the root ;
and (3.) firmness and weight.

THE LETTUCE.

This is an indispensable vegetable in all gardens, and is the
most generally cultivated of all the salad plants. There are
two well-known and distinct types in cultivation, the Cabbage
or round Lettuce, and the Cos or upright form, the latter being
the favourite for exhibition. A host of varieties are grown, but
a good strain of the White Cos is the best to grow for compe-
tition specimens. Seed sown on an open border in March,
and planted out as soon as large enough, will furnish fine
samples by midsummer, or they may be brought on much
quicker if grown in a close frame or under hand-lights. For
raising early and tender Lettuce, the French cloche is a first-
rate contrivance, but it is more suitable for the Cabbage varie-
ties—the favourite in France—than for the Cos; still, with
its aid, the quality of the latter is much improved. A rich fri-
able soil, well dug and manured the previous autumn, is a first-
rate medium for growing the finest of Lettuce. When they
are about half-grown, they should be well fed with liquid
manure, and receive abundance of water in dry weather. At-
tention must be paid to tying the heads with a piece of soft
raffia to blanch the leaves, if they do not close in naturally. A
Lettuce for exhibition should be neatly dressed by removing
the root and all stale or damaged leaves, leaving nothing but
what is fit to make a salad. The points of merit are: (1.) Size
and solidity of the head ; (2.) quality, fresh, crisp, and tender;

and (3.) leaves thick and juicy, and of good flavour.
0

210 VEGETABLES.

THE MUSHROOM.

The Mushroom is much appreciated as an esculent, and con-
sequently attains a high position among others in competition.
Its cultivation is chiefly confined to places of importance and
to growers for market, and many methods have been devised
for its production on a cheap scale, on ridges and in frames
without artificial heat. These modes are sometimes very suc-
cessful; but a house specially constructed for the purpose,
and where the necessary conditions for growth can be main-
tained, independent of external circumstances, is the best and
most reliable. Mushrooms cannot, like other vegetables, be
much stimulated with liquid manure during their time of
growth, consequently the bed on which they are to grow
should be made of the most substantial material. Horse-
droppings, turned daily to sweeten for about a fortnight, are
generally used for this purpose, but a mixture of cow and
sheep droppings tend to modify the heat and render the
material far more lasting, giving larger produce and of a better
quality. These materials, after being mixed and two or three
times turned, should be put in a bed about 18 inches deep,
and made very firm. In a few days the heat will rise, and
after it begins to decline the spawn should be introduced.
A layer two inches thick of loam and cow-dung made into
mortar, should then be spread over the bed and made smooth.
A moist atmosphere should be constantly maintained and the
surface of the bed covered with straw to keep it moist. Little
or no fire-heat will be required in summer, but in autumn
and winter a steady temperature of 56° should be maintained.
The points of merit are: (1.) Size, which should be equal ;
(2.) condition, fresh and perfect ; (3.) colour, white with the
gills a fresh pink.

THE ONION.

The improvement in the cultivation of the Onion has per-
haps been more marked in recent years than that of any
similar vegetable. This is partly due to the introduction of
improved varieties, and particularly the large varieties, such
as Trebons, Giant Rocca, and the like. The size which these
and others now assume was quite unknown in onion-culture

VEGETABLES. 211

a few years ago; and still the size increases yearly, our
leading exhibitors vieing with each other in “beating the
record.” Three of the finest for exhibition are Ailsa Craig,
Rousham Park Hero, and Trebons. Onions thrive best in a
rich, light, warm soil, made firm on the surface by treading
just before planting. It should be heavily manured and double
dug the previous autumn, leaving it in ridges exposed to the
frost all winter. When required for planting, level the ridges
and fork into the surface soil a dressing of salt and soot.
A little bone-meal is also very beneficial. The seed may be
sown in the open air on a warm border about the middle of
August, or in boxes, in a mild heat, early in February. In
either case they must be pricked three inches apart into boxes,
filled with light rich soil, and placed in a temperature of about
55° at the lowest, where they will grow freely and make fine
plants to set out in due time. Care must be taken to prevent
any drawing of the plants while they are in heat, and they
must be gradually hardened off to be ready to plant out early
in May. The ground being properly prepared, the planting
should be done on a mild afternoon, lifting each plant care-
fully with a ball, and inserting it unbroken into the firm
surface of the ground with a trowel. Place a small stake to
each plant, to save the leaves from being tossed about by the
wind till the plants are established, and give a watering to
settle the soil around the ball. The rows should be about
15 inches between, and the plants about nine inches apart in
the rows. They should be kept clear of weeds, and receive
when growing freely a copious supply of liquid manure (made
from guano, soot, or pigeon-dung) in dry weather, and a
sprinkling of artificial manure in showery weather is very
beneficial in swelling the bulbs to their largest dimensions. As
they reach maturity the heads of most of them require to be
bent over and slightly twisted, to stop top growth and assist the
ripening of the bulbs. For early autumn shows it is generally
necessary to lift them and twist their necks, and place them in
a dry hot place to ripen for competition. Their points of merit
are: (1.) Size, which must be firm and weighty; (2.) form,
which should be globular and smooth, with a fine neck; and
(3.) ripeness.

912 VEGETABLES.

THE PARSLEY.

This vegetable, when shown as part of a collection or in
a class by itself, should always be exhibited in a pot. It
should not be simply lifted and potted when required, but
it should be grown at least for a time in the pot. Two suit-
able varieties are Myatt’s and Triple Curled. Seed should be
sown in a box in March amongst light loam and leaf-mould,
and placed in a frame. When the plants are large enough to
handle, they should be pricked four inches apart into another
box. After the plants are strong and bushy, they should be
potted into six-inch pots among similar soil, and set in a frame
with a northern aspect. They should be shaded from strong
sun, and never be allowed to get dry. A moist atmosphere
around the pots is also essential to promote healthy growth.
Weak guano-and-soot water, given once a week after the
plants are established in the pots, encourages the production
of large healthy leaves. The points of merit are: (1.) Size
and number of leaves; (2.) quality, fresh and tender; and
(3.) plant well furnished with firm, densely-curled leaves,

THE PARSNIP.

The varieties of parsnips are few, two of the best being
Hollow-Crowned and The Student. To secure long, clean, taper-
ing roots, parsnips should be cultivated on a deep sandy loain
free from all rank vegetable matter. The ground should be
prepared during winter by trenching two feet deep, and digging
into the bottom of the trench a quantity of rich decomposed
manure. ‘The ground should be well broken up in March, and
the seed sown thinly in rows, two feet apart. The plants should
be thinned to one foot apart, and when the roots are about half
grown and well formed, liquid manure should be given, which
will do much to feed and increase the size of the root. A
deep trench should be dug between the rows when lifting,
and all the root that is clean and straight preserved. The
roots should then be washed clean, and all side fibres nipped
clear away. The points of merit are: (1.) Length and thick-
ness; (2.) root tapering, straight, and clean; and (3.) flesh
firm, tender, and succulent.

VEGETABLES. 213

THE PEA.

This is one of the most important of all vegetables. In
competition, a dish of peas in a perfect condition takes a high
place. Three of the best varieties for exhibition are Duke of
Albany, Stratagem, and Telephone. To grow it to perfection,
the Pea requires a strong rich loam. Where the soil is un-
favourable, trenches should be filled with a mixture of turfy
loam and well-rotted manure six inches deep, and the Peas
sown thinly on it, covering them with an inch deep of ordinary
soil. For exhibition in August and September, two sowings
should be made in May. As soon as they are fairly above the
ground they must be properly staked, and if the weather is dry,
they should be mulched with long litter and regularly watered.
When they have grown to nearly their full height, the tops
may be pinched off. If the crop is heavy, it should be thinned
by removing the small and badly formed pods, and also all that
are likely to be too forward. By this means, fresh, plump,
well-filled pods are secured. Peas should be shown in their
pods, and a certain number of pods should always be stipulated
for, The points of merit are: (1.) Length and girth of pod,
which should be straight and well filled, and all of an equal
size; and (2.) Peas large, plump, dark-green, tender, and sweet
to the taste.

THE POTATO.

The varieties of this useful esculent have increased very
rapidly within the last few years. They have also been very
much improved in appearance, but whether or not the quality
has improved in the same degree cannot be definitely stated.
We are, however, indebted to those specialists who by careful
cross-fertilisation have been enabled to produce varieties, proof,
at least for a time, against the attacks of disease.

Among the best twelve for exhibition are Ashleaf Fluke,
Beauty of Hebron, Excelsior, Freedom, International, King of
Russets, Schoolmaster, Snowflake, Snowdrop, The Cobbler,
Vicar of Laleham, and Village Blacksmith. White and
round varieties being most popular, should predominate in all
collections.

214 VEGETABLES.

The potato is of easy culture, but it cannot be successfully
grown for exhibition in every kind of soil. Certain varieties
grow well in a moist situation, but the majority produce the
best tubers in adry soil. A light mellow loam, comparatively
free from iron, and well mixed with leaf-soil, is most suitable
for the production of clean well-shaped tubers.

To secure late potatoes for early autumn shows, it is neces-
sary to start the sets in heat in the middle of February, placing
some of the best-formed medium-sized tubers into shallow boxes
amongst leaf-soil. As soon as they have grown an inch, they
should be removed to a cold frame and placed near the glass
to harden off. The soil having been well broken up and in
a workable condition, they should be planted out in the middle
of March. Lift them out of the boxes with as much soil
attached to the roots as possible, and place them in shallow
furrows from two to three feet apart, and one foot to one foot
four inches between the sets, according to their habit of growth.
All the shoots should be removed from the sets at planting
except the strongest one. A little fine soil should be placed -
round the sets in the drill, then cover them to a depth of four
inches. Potatoes should not be planted deep, because the best
tubers are invariably those nearest the surface. When the
tops appear above ground, a little earth should be drawn over
them for protection. The hoe and fork should be often applied
between the drills whilst the potatoes are young, as the more
they receive in this way, especially in adhesive soil, the better
will be the crop. Previous to earthing up, a dressing should be
given of some inorganic manure recommended for the potato, it
being more beneficial to them than quantities of rank farm-yard
manure. The soil should be drawn well up tothe stems when
they are finally earthed up, and all blooms picked off as they
appear.

Care should be exercised when lifting the crop to prevent
injury to the skin of the tubers. The best specimens should
be picked out as they are lifted and set apart, and in the final
selection for exhibition, those of equal size, form, and good ap-
pearance should be chosen; and after being carefully washed,
they should be rolled in soft paper and kept from the light.

VEGETABLES. 215

When dishes are not provided for staging, a shallow box three
inches deep is necessary for the purpose, into which the tubers
should be laid upon green moss, arranging the colours tastefully,
and keeping an inch of clear space between each tuber. The
points of merit are: (1.) The tubers should be of a good size,
equal and alike in form and colour; and (2.) the flesh when
cut across should be clear and of one colour. Coloured varie-
ties with a pink tinge in the flesh should not be disqualified
on account of it.

THE RADISH.

There are numerous varieties of the Radish in cultivation,
the best of which for exhibition are the French Breakfast and
Long Scarlet for forcing and the earliest crops in the open air,
and the turnip-rooted red and white varieties for summer and
autumn crops. They thrive best in a rich, warm, free soil, in
a sheltered spot in spring and early summer, and on a north
sloping border in hot summer weather, when the direct rays of
hot sunshine are detrimental to their quality. Seed should be
sown from four to six weeks, according to the season, before
the date when the roots are required. If the weather proves
hot and dry, they are much benefited by a plentiful supply of
water and liquid manure to promote a free and rapid growth,
upon which their chief qualities depend. In selecting them for
exhibition, choose clean well- grown roots, which break crisp and
clean, and show no fibre in them. The points of merit are:
(1.) Size, and all the sample equal; (2.) quality, fresh and
clean from small fibry roots; and (3.) flesh crisp and juicy,
and of a brisk, pleasant, slightly pungent flavour.

THE RHUBARB.

This accommodating vegetable may be said to grow any-
where, but can scarcely be placed in any soil too rich for its
taste. Two first-rate varieties are Johnstone’s St. Martin and
Victoria. The former is comparatively sweet, while they both
possess a fine red colour, and can be grown to a large size,
The open-air culture being simple, a few hints on forcing of
Rhubarb may be useful. The produce from plants lifted and

216 VEGETABLES.

forced being inferior for exhibition to that from those estab-
lished outside, a few plants should be divided in March, and
the strongest crowns planted three feet apart in rows five feet
asunder, on a deeply-trenched, well-manured, warm border.
When the plants begin to grow, they should receive frequent
waterings with drainings from the stable or byre, well diluted.
No stalks should be taken from the plants during the summer,
that the whole strength and substance may be concentrated
for their future support. Square boxes, three feet wide at the
bottom and two feet at the top, should be put over the plants,
around which should be built a good thickness of stable litter
and leaves well mixed. A little light admitted at the top
during fine days improves the colour and texture of the stalks,
The points of merit are: (1.) Length and thickness of the stalks ;
(2.) quality, firm, tender, and briskly acid; and (3.) colour,
clear and bright.
THE SAVOY.

The Savoy is an excellent winter vegetable, which, like the
Brussels Sprout, is the better for a little touch of frost to make
it tender. Good varieties for exhibition are Early Ulm, Green
Curled, and Drumhead. When Savoys are wanted for autumn
seed should be sown under the same conditions as are recom-
mended for Brussels Sprouts, while the second sowing should be
made along with the Cabbage on an early border. The plants
should be afterwards treated in the same manner as Cabbage.
The points of merit are: (1.) Size and firmness of the head ;
(2.) solidity of the heart when cut ; and (3.) yellowish colour
of heart.

THE SEAKALE.

This important winter and spring vegetable thrives best in
light deep loam, and the best heads are reared from two-year
old plants. Seakale should be treated in the same manner as
Rhubarb, except that a little salt should be sprinkled round
the plants previous to watering, and blanching covers put over
the crowns instead of boxes. The growth of the shoots can be
advanced or retarded by the strength of heating material used.
The points of merit are: (1.) Size; (2.) compactness; and
(3.) quality, crisp, succulent, and perfectly blanched.

VEGETABLES. 217

THE TOMATO,

The Tomato has of late become exceedingly popular, and
although it takes a place among vegetables, it is very often used
as a fruit, and may some day be included in that class. It
makes a very bright and attractive dish, and in a collection of
vegetables it takes a high position. Many new varieties have
been recently sent out, some of which are good, while others
are inferior to some of the old sorts. Hathaway’s Excelsior,
Large Red, and Trophy are excellent old varieties, seeds of
which should be saved from the largest and finest of the pro-
duce. And of newer varieties, Dwarf Champion, Hackwood
Park, and Volunteer are among the best. They are very easily
cultivated if a low-roofed house with plenty of space fox venti-
lation and means for maintaining a night temperature of 50°
to 55° is provided for them. To produce ripe Tomatoes in
June, seed should be sown in a mild heat about the beginning
of March, and the seedlings potted on till they fill five-inch pots,
after which they should be planted two feet apart on a bed
composed of light loam and leaf-mould. The plants should be
led up with a single stem, and all laterals pinched out as they
appear. .\s soon as they come into flower, a free circulation of
dry air through the plants will ensure a good set, and as soon
as the fruit are formed, all bad-shaped ones should be cut out,
and one or two of the best left on a bunch. To produce large
fine Tomatoes, the time to feed is after a number are set and
swelling, If it isdone with liquid manure or rich soil previous
to this time, soft growth will result, and unsatisfactory exhi-
hition produce will be obtained. We use at this period a heavy
top-dressing of loam and well-decomposed manure in equal
parts, to the barrowful of which is added a six-inch potful of
a good fertiliser and the same of bone-meal, all mixed together,
spread, and made very firm over the roots. As soon as the
roots are well through the soil, the plants are supplied with
liquid manure once a week. The effect of this treatment is fine
‘Tomatoes and a long season of produce, The points of merit
are: (1.) Size; (2.) form; and (3.) colour. The fruits should
be of equal size, regular in outline, and of a bright clear colour.

218 VEGETABLES,

THE TURNIP.

The Turnip is an indispensable vegetable in a mixed com-
petitive collection. When a class is provided for itself, it is
generally well filled, and the exhibits in many cases reach the
standard of perfection. Two of the best for early shows are
Snowball and White Model, while a good strain of Golden Ball
is the best for autumn and winter competition, To grow turnips
of fine form, free from coarse fibres and with small roots, seeds
should be sown between the middle of May and the end of
June on rather poor, light, loamy soil. But the roots must not
be starved, else the flesh will be tough ; consequently the earth
should be drawn well over the bulbs when about half grown,
and a furrow made from which to feed the roots with weak
liquid manure without its coming in contact with the bulbs.
Bulbs of a medium size are preferred to extra large ones. They
should be lifted a day or two before the show and washed, the
rough parts rubbed smooth, and any fibres removed; after
which the yellow kinds should be exposed to the light, which
improves the colour. The points of merit are: (1.) Form ;
(2.) colour; (3.) size. The white should be pure, and the
yellow kinds bright and uniform all over. When cut, the
flesh should be of one colour, juicy, and sweet.

THE VEGETABLE MARROW.

In its best condition the Vegetable Marrow is worthy of a
place in any collection. The finest varieties for exhibition are
Long White, Moore’s Vegetable Cream, and Pen-y-Byd. Seeds
should be sown in March in pots filled with light rich soil, and
placed in a night temperature of about 60°, potting the plants
off singly into four-inch pots as soon as they have shown the
rough leaf, and growing them on in the heat till they are well
established. They should be gradually hardened off, and be
ready for planting out about the end of May. They will grow
well in any sheltered place in the full sun, where a pit may be
dug two or three feet deep, and filled with heating material of
any kind, on which a barrowful of soil is placed. As soon
as the heat rises, the plants should be put in, well watered, and
slightly shaded till they begin to grow. They must be pro-

VEGETABLES. 219

tected at night if frost threatens after they are planted. As
they grow and extend, the shoots should be regulated and
stopped beyond each fruit. When the plants are growing
freely, liquid manure should be liberally applied, as the most
vigorous growth generally gives the finest fruits. In selecting
them for exhibition, the fruit should be young and symmetrical,
not old and coarse. The points of merit are: (1.) Quality, the
flesh fresh, solid, and tender; (2.) form, globular or oblong,
and free from irregularities ; and (3.) size, which should be
moderate, neither too small nor too large of the kind. When
cut, the flesh should be thick and sweet.

THE SALAD PLANTS.
In the preparation of salads a large variety of plants are
employed more or less by connoisseurs, of which the following
are the chief :—

Beet. Corn Salad. Onion,
Borage. Cress. Purslane.
Burnet. Dandelion, Radish.
Celeriac. Endive. Rampion.
Celery. Horse-Radish. Rape.
Chervil, Lettuce, Sorrel.
Chickory. Mint. Tarragon.
Chives. Mustard. Tomato.

These are generally exhibited in collections of a certain
number of kinds; and when well grown and set up in fair
quantities in a neat style, on a proper tray or stand, they are
objects of much interest to the visitors at a horticultural show.
For a collection of twelve kinds, the number usually specified
in schedules, the following are a good selection :—1. Beet,
2. Celery, 3. Chervil, 4. Common Cress, 5. Endive, 6. Horse-
Radish, 7. Lettuce, 8. Mustard, 9, Onion, 10, Radish, 11. Tar-
ragon, 12, Tomato. The cultivation of salads is a compara-
tively easy matter, but it is too often much neglected, with the
result that the plants are poor, tough, juiceless articles, and
very unfit for the purpose of making a rich nourishing salad.
They mostly all thrive well in a light, rich, friable loam, and
delight in heat and moisture, so that many of them are amen-

220 VEGETABLES.

able to forcing through the winter and spring, at which seasons
a tender and juicy salad is highly appreciated. In many cases
their qualities as salad plants are greatly improved by forcing ;
and when a good collection of crisp, tender, juicy salads is ex-
hibited in the winter or spring, it commands much attention
and merits a good reward. It is not necessary to go into the
details of their individual culture, which is well known to every
good grower, and is described at length in all works on garden-
ing; but the stimulating influence of rich top-dressings and
frequent doses of liquid manure is nowhere more clearly evi-
dent than in the raising of salad plants and roots for exhibition,
As the majority of the plants are used uncooked in making
a salad, they should always be grown in a cleanly condition ;
and when set up for competition, every part should be clean
and perfect, and all in a fresh, tender state, fit in every way
to make a first-rate salad. All herbaceous stems, such as
Burnet, Chevril, Mint, and Tarragon, should be made up into
neat bunches, and a fair quantity shown ; and all roots and
fruits shown in proportionate quantities. The points of merit
are: (1.) All samples well grown; (2.) quality, fresh, crisp,
tender, and juicy ; and (3.) the selection good, and all exhibited
in suitable proportions.

THE CULINARY AND SWEET HERBS.

This is a class which is sellom seen at horticultural exhi-
bitions, but the importance of many of the articles in the
culinary and household arts fully entitles them to recognition
in the horticultural prize-list when they are exhibited in first-
rate condition. Among those most frequently grown are the
following :—

Angelica. Dill. Purslane.

. Balm. Fennel. Rosemary.
Basil. Horehound. Rue.
Borage. Hyssop. Sage.
Caraway. Lavender. Savory.
Camomile. Marigold. Sorrel.
Coriander, Marjoram. Thyme.

Costmary Mint. Wormwood.

VEGETABLES. 221

They should always be exhibited in neat bunches, and, in the
season, in a fresh green state, just as they have reached the
perfect condition for use. A dozen of good kinds for a collec-
tion are: 1. Basil, 2. Borage, 3, Fennel, 4. Hyssop, 5. Lavender,
6. Marigold, 7. Marjoram, 8. Mint, 9. Sage, 10. Savory, 11.
Sorrel, and 12. Thyme. As ‘dried herbs,” most of them are
suitable for exhibition through the winter and spring, and
when shown in first-rate condition they form a very interest-
ing exhibit. They are all easily grown in any friable soil in
good condition, and when exhibition samples are wanted they
are much improved by a little extra attention to manuring,
watering in dry weather, and supporting with stakes those
that require it. An excellent method of exhibiting a collec-
tion of them is to grow them specially for exhibition in pots.
Healthy young plants soon form nice specimens in suitable
sized pots when grown in an open compost of fibry loam, leaf-
mould, and crushed bones, Plunged in a sheltered border, the
plants will grow vigorously, and can be fed to any necessary
extent with liquid manure and rich surface dressings. A little
-staking and regulating of those requiring it will make capital
specimens of them for exhibition. The points of merit in
green or dried herbs are: (1.) Good samples of each in perfect
condition ; (2.) flavour and quality perfect of their kind; and
(3.) kinds well selected and meritorious.

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MANURES AND THEIR APPLICATION.

MANURES AND THEIR APPLICATION.

In supplementing what has already been said regarding the
soils and manures best adapted to the various plants, we will
consider in a general way and briefly the origin and applica-
tion of plant food, and its effects on the life and growth of
the plant. Chemists tells us that the four primary elements,
viz, Carbon, Oxygen, Hydrogen, and Nitrogen form the
structure of all plants, and that these simple elements in
various combinations and proportions constitute the main
body of living organisms as well as of all dead substances in
the universe.

Chemical science has of late done much to enlighten the
horticulturist on the composition of the soil, the constituents
of plants, and the ingredients of manure. The success or
non-success of the cultivator mainly depends upon his bringing
into practical operation the principles laid down by the scientist,
and the laws which govern supply and demand.

The first thing one naturally inquires about when commenc-
ing to cultivate any particular plant or crop is, what manure
should be applied so that the best results may be obtained ?
If he is conversant with the constitution of the plant, the
character of its surroundings, and the nature of its food, he
can easily supply its wants. But many are in want of this
knowledge, which is so essential in the economy of the garden
or the field, and the lack of which is soon made manifest
by the condition of the crops. The common rule is to apply
farmyard manure in greater or less quantities to fertilise
soils on which all kinds of crops are to be cultivated. When
this manure is collected from all sources, mixed together, and
decomposed, it is supposed to contain within itself in certain
proportions all the ingredients of which plants are composed,
and which they require as food. But farmyard manure alone

MANURES AND THEIR APPLICATION. 223

does not contain all the necessary ingredients in the required
proportions to promote a strong healthy growth through the
various stages and changing conditions of the life of the majo-
rity of plants. Analogy between the mode and means of
subsistence in the animal and vegetable kingdoms is generally
recognised. If the animal be supplied, according to its kind,
with nutritious digestible food, containing all the elements re-
quired for the formation of bone, muscle, and flesh, a good speci-
men should be the result. In like manner plants should have
within their reach at the proper time the proportions required
of the various elements which go to compose their structure,
and the formation of flower, fruit, and seed. Farmyard man-
ure being deficient in inorganic substances, such as potash
and lime, should not be given alone to root crops, especially
when the mineral elements have been withdrawn from the soil
by the frequent repetition of crops of the same nature. For
example, if potatoes were grown for several years in succession
in the same place, the crop would gradually become lighter and
inferior in quality. If this system were continued for any
length of time, although farmyard manure be abundantly sup-
plied, the ground would cease to bear from lack of sufficient
mineral to decompose the organic matter. By applying lime,
which has the power of liberating by chemical action the fer-
tilising properties in vegetable matter, and by returning to the
soil the other minerals removed by cropping, fertility is again
restored. On the other hand, if inorganic manures be applied
to such crops as brassica and pulse, and the soil be deficient in
humus, light crops will follow. The one class of manure is
entirely dependent upon the presence and action of the other for
the conversion of both into a suitable condition for absorption
and assimilation by plants, and it is evident that if the mate-
rials required for the construction, development, and matura-
tion of the plant are not present in sufficient quantities and
proportions, the growth will be slow and the parts imperfect.
It is, therefore, necessary to apply to the soil the elements in
which it is deficient by using artificial manures, most of which
are good when properly prepared and unadulterated, and have
proved a decided gain to the modern horticulturist. These

224 MANURES AND THEIR APPLICATION.

manures would be of more value, and could be better utilised
by horticulturists, if the ingredients and proportions were gene-
rally known. The advantages derived from their use are, first,
their easy application either in a dry or a soluble state ; second,
the choice of ingredients suited to the various crops; third,
the assistance they render to farmyard manure by supplying
in a concentrated form to rapid-growing plants the organic and
inorganic elements in the exact proportions required.

A few common garden plants and the special ingredients
they require as food may be given. Peas, beans, and all crops
grown for their seeds should have manures rich in silicates and
phosphates. Potatoes, turnip, and root crops generally should
have lime and potash. Cabbage, spinach, and those vegetables
cultivated for their leaves should have sulphates and chlorides.
Carbonates and phosphates for fruit trees and bushes. Alkalies
are always required along with other manurial ingredients.

These are a few of the more important compounds at the
command of the cultivator, the ingredients of which should
predominate in all manures applied to the crops or plants men-
tioned. They should not, however, be substituted entirely for
farmyard manure, but should be given along with it, according
to the wants of the crop and the deficiency in the soil of the
food-supply for that crop. The atmosphere is an inexhaustible
source of food-supply for plants, which is received from the
various gases and vapours which surround them. This supply
cannot be controlled by the horticulturist further than by
loosening the surface of the ground, that the nourishing dews
may the more readily be absorbed by it, and thus reach the
roots of the crop. The loosening the soil is also the means of
preventing the rain, which is laden with ammonia and carbonic
acid gas, more especially after prolonged drought, from running
direct into rents and crevices of the earth, instead of being re-
tained by the humus, and the fertilising properties held fast by
it, while the pure water is allowed to pass to the drainage.

The Application of Manures.—Previous to applying farm-
yard manure, the nature of the soil should be considered. If
it be of a close, heavy, and clayey nature, the manure should
be applied in a fresh state. If light and sandy, the manure

MANURES AND THEIR APPLICATION. 225

should be well decomposed. In the former case, the soil is
rendered more open to the access of air, with a free passage
for any surplus of water. In the latter case, the decomposed
manure has just an opposite tendency, and it also keeps the
roots cool and moist in warm dry weather, while its fertilising
elements are ready for immediate absorption. Manure should
not be deeply buried, except for such plants as carrot and par-
snip, but should be kept near the surface, in the hope that
where the elements of nutrition are, there the roots will
be also; and there is little doubt that if all the materials
required by the plants were placed within convenient reach,
less root-pruning would be required amongst bushes and fruit-
trees. Besides the solid manure, the liquid drainage from
the farmyard is of great value. When it is collected in
a tank and allowed to ferment and putrefy, its fertilising
properties have an immediate effect on vegetation. It should,
however, be well diluted before being applied to growing crops.
It may be easily spread over unoccupied ground when in a
fresh state, and thus prevent the unavoidable loss of volatile
gases in the process of fermentation. Decomposed urine from
the byre and stable is an excellent manure, owing to the number
of fertilising salts it holds in solution. It should be applied
to vegetables and all growing plants with care, and when used
in fruit-growing, it should be used only in a weak state when
the fruit is swelling and the soil exhausted, because of the
tendency which an excess of ammonia and nitrogenous sub-
stances have to produce gross spongy growth. The error of
using stimulating manures without regard to a proper combi-
nation of elements may be illustrated by a common practice
in agriculture. The farmer may be observed sowing so many
hundredweights of nitrate of soda on an acre of his grass fields,
and if the weather is moist, the effect, to all appearance, is
wonderful; but if a comparison be made between the stock
fed on that part of the field dressed with nitre, and another
part which had not received any, the difference will be out of
all proportion to that expected, showing clearly that certain
manurial substances have the power of increasing the growth

of the plant, but cannot impart to it the nutritive elemente
P

226 MANURES AND THEIR APPLICATION.

which sustain the life and growth of the animal. Neither in
the process of assimilation can an element suited to one part
of the plant be changed to supply any deficiency, or occupy the
place of another. Plants in themselves have little or no power
to substitute one element for another, to enable them to thrive
and grow to perfection. It is the cultivator’s part to supply
what las not already been provided by Nature for this end.
Carbonic acid gas is the principal food of young plants, until
the stem is reared and the roots extend, after which a gradual
increase in the strength and variety of food should be made,
and continued till the leaves develop, when more robust material
can be assimilated and appropriated by the different parts of
the plant for its own uses, and ultimately to be utilised by man.

Artificial or concentrated manures may be applied to the sur-
face of the soil previous to planting or seed-sowing as a first
dressing, or they may he slightly forked in; but for growing
crops they should be watered in, unless when applied in showery
weather, when it is better done in the natural way. When it
is not convenient to apply these manures to the surface, they
should be added to the farm-yard manure, and at once dug in,
mixing the whole well with the soil in the operation.

It is, however, in the culture of pot and other plants grown
under glass that the benefits derived from the use of concen-
trated manures are most felt and appreciated, as they require
more frequent watering tlian plants in the open air, and the man-
ures can be applied in smaller quantities and greater variety
at short intervals. This is especially applicable to plants in
pots, where the quantity of soil is limited, and where they
are almost entirely dependent upon an artificial supply. The
manures can either be spread upon the surface of the soil in
the pot previous to watering, or dissolved in the water before
being applied, and in every case the effect should be carefully
noted for future guidance. It is by closely observing the effect
produced by various kinds of manures upon exotic plants that
a correct knowledge of their requirements can be ascertained,
varieties of the same species often requiring some deviation in

the kind or the strength of the nourishment supplied to pro-
duce the best results.

MANURES AND THEIR APPLICATION. 227

These notes on manures are mainly given for the purpose
of drawing closer attention to a wide field of useful knowledge,
which has still to be largely utilised. The scientist has done
his part in opening it up; it is the province of the practical
horticulturist to make the best use of it for the benefit of all.

INDEX.

ABUTILON, 45.
Acacia, 27.
Acalypha, 15.
Achimenes, 2.
Acrophyllum, 27.
Adiantum, 66, 73.
Aérides, 53.
Agapanthus, 28.
Allamanda, 3.
Allosorus, 73.
Alocasia, 15.
Aloysia, 94.
Alsophila, 78.
Amaryllis, 4.
Angrecum, J.
Annuals, 125, 126.
Anthurium, 5, 13.
Antirrhinum, 127.
Aphelexis, 28.
Apple, 154.
Apricot, 157.
Aralia, 16, 45.
Araucaria, 46,
Areca, 86.
Artichoke, Globe, 197 ; Jerusalem,
198.
Arundo, 46,
Asparagus, 198.
Aspidistra, 95.
Asplenium, 67, 73.
Aster, 128,
Athyrium, 73.
Auricula, 95.
Azalea, 29, 97.

Batsau, 98,

Bambusa, 46.

Banana, 158.

Bean, Broad, 199; French,
Runner, 200.

Beaucarnea, 46.

ib. ;

|

229

Beet, 200.

Begonia, 98.

Berried plants, 84.

Blechnum, 67, 74, 78.
Bougainvillea, 5.

Borecole or Kale, 201.

Boronia, 29.

Bouquets and floral arrangements,

Bouvardia, 30.

Brainea, 79.

Bride’s bouquet, «, 150.
British ferns, 72 et seq.
Broccoli, 201.

Brussels Sprouts, 202.
Buttonhole bouquets, 151.

CABBAGE, 203.
Caladium, 16.
Calamus, 86.
Calanthe, 55.
Calceolaria, 91).
Camellia, 30, 128.
Carludovica, 17.
Carnation, 129.
Carrot, 208.
Caryota, 87.
Cattleya, 55.
Cauliflower, 204.
Celery, 205.
Ceterach, 74.
Chameedorea, 87.
Chameerops, 87.
Cherry, 159.
Chrysanthemum, 100, 1380.
Cibotium. Sce Cyathea and Dick-
sonia.
Cineraria, 104.
Cissus, 17.
Clerodendron, 6.
Cleyera, 47.

230

Clianthus, 31.

Clivia. See Imantophyllum.
Cobeea, 47.

Cockscomb, 104.

Cocos, 87.

Ceelogyne, 56.

Conifers, 85.

Coprosma, 47.

Cordyline. See Draceena.
Correa, 31.

Corypha, Sv.

Crassula, 31.

Crinum, 6.

Croton, 18.

Cucumber, 206.

Culinary and sweet herbs, 220.
Currant, 160.

Cut flowers, 125 et seq.
Cyanophyllumn, 19.
Cyathea, 79.

Cyeas, 48.

Cyclamen, 105.
Cymbidium, 57.
Cypripedium, 57.
Cytisus, 32.

Danuta, 134.
Daphne, 82.
Dasylirion, 45.
Davallia, 68.
Delphinium, 136.
Dendrobium, 57.
Deutzia, 106.
Dichorizandra, 19,
Dickaonia, 79.
Dieffenbachia, 20.
Dielytra, 106.
Dipladenia, 7.
Draceena, 20, 48.
Dracophyllum, 33.

Exits, 88,

Endive, 207.

Epacris, 33.

Epergnes, 152.

pidendrum, 58.

Erica, 34.

Eriostemon, 35.

Eucharis, 8.

Kurya, 49.

Exhibition plants, miscellaneous,
94 et scqg.; general remarks on,

9

Exotic ferns, 66 ct seq.

INDEX.

_ Ferns, exotic, 66 et seg.; British,

72 ct seq. ; filmy, 75 et seq.; tree,
77 et seq.

Ficus, 21, 49.

Fig, 161.

Filmy ferns, 75 ct seq.

Floral arrangements, bouquets and,
149.

Flowering plants, stove, 2
greenhouse, 27 e¢ seq.
Foliage plants, stove, 16 et seq.

Franciscea, 9.
Fruit, 153 ct seq.
Fuchsia, 36.

cl seq. .

GARDENIA, 9.
(renetyllis, 35.
Geonuma, 88.
Geranium, 107, 157,
Gladiolus, 137,
Gleichenia, 68,
Gloxinia, 109.
(vooseberry, 162.
Grape, 163.
Greenhouse flowers, 138.
Grevillea, 49.

Groups of plants, 120.
Gnuelder-rose, 109.
Gymnogramma, 69.

Hatr-Harpy annuals, 125.

Hand bouquet, a, 156.

Hardy annuals, 126.

——— Herbaceous perennials, 139.

Herbs, culinary and sweet, 220.

Hibiscus, 21.

Hollyhock, 140.

Iorse-radish, 2U8.

Horticultural exhibitions, benetits
of, ix. et seq.

Hoya, 49.

Hyacinth, 110.

Hydrangea, 50, 111.

Hymenophyllum, 76.

IMANTOPHYLLUM, 36,
Ixora, 10.

JASMINUM, 10.
Judges, electing, xv.
Judging, xix. 51, 65, 82, 85.

KeEntvi1a, 89.

INDEX,

Laptgs’ sprays, 151,
Lelia, 58.
Lapageria, 37.
Lasiandra, 38.
Lastrea. 69, 74.
Latania, 89.

Leek, 208.
Leschenaultia, 38.
Lettuce, 209.
Licuala, 89.

Lilac, 111.

Lilium, 38.

Lily of the Valley, 112.
Livistona, 89,
Lomaria, 69, 80.
Lomatia, 50.
Lycaste, 59.
Lygodium, 70.

Manvres and their application,
222,

Maranta, 21.
Masdevallia, 59,
Maxillaria, 60.
Medinilla, 10.
Melon, 175.
Mignonette, 112.
Miltonia, 60.
"Musa, 22, 50.
Mushroom, 210.

Narcissus, 113.
Nectarine, 179.
Nephrodium, 70.
Nephrolepis, 70.
Nerium, 39.
Nothochlena, 70,

ODONTOGLOssUM, 60,
Oncidium, 61.

Onion, 210,

Orange, 179.

Orchid, 52 ct seq., 141.
Oreodoxa, 90.
Osmunda, 71, 74, 78.

Paws, 86 e¢ seq. ; general remarks
on, 92

Pancratium, 11.

Pandanus, 22.

Pansy, 142.

Parsley, 212.

Parsnip, 212.

Paulinia, 23.

Pavetta, 25,

Pea, 213.

Peach, 181.

Pear, 184.
Pelargonium, 114.
Pentstemon, 144.
Petunia, 114.
Phaius, 62.
Phalzenopsis, 62.
Philodendron, 238.
Phlox, 144.
Pheenicophorum, 90.
Phenix, 90.
Phormium, 51.
Picotee, 144.
Pimelea, 40.
Pine-apple, 186.
Pink, 144.
Platycerium, 71.
Pleroma, 40.
Plum, 193.
Plumbago, 41.
Poinsettia, 12.
Polyanthus, 115.
Polygala, 41.
Polypodium, 71, 75.
Polystichum, 71, 75.
Potato, 213.
Primula, 116.
Pritchardia, 90.
Pteris, 72.
Ptychosperma, 91.
Pyrethrum, 145.

| RapvisH, 215.

Raphis, 91.

Raspberry, 194.
Rhododendron, 41, 117, 145.
Rhopala, 24.

Rhubarb, 215.
Rhynchospermum, 42.
Richardia, 117.

Rondeletia, 12.

Rose, 118, 146.

SAccOLABIUM, 63.
Salad plants, 219.
Sanchezia, 24.
Savoy, 216.
Scolopendrium, 75.
Seaforthia, 91.
Seakale, 216.
Selaginella, 81.
Sobralia, 63.

232

Sonerila, 24,
Spheerogyne, 25.
Spirea, 119.
Stanhopea, 63,
Statice, 43.
Stephanotis, 13.
Stevensonia, 91.
Stock, 148.

Stove flowers, 148,
Strawberry, 195.

TABERNEMONTANA, 18,

Table bouquet, a, 151.

Table plants, 83 et seq.

erminalia, 25.
Tetratheca, 44.
Theophrasta, 25.
Thunbergia, 14.
Thrinax, 92.
Tillandsia, 26.
Todea, 76, 81.
Tomato, 217.

INDEX.

Toxicophleea, 14.
Tree ferns, 77 et seq.
Trichomanes, 77.
Trichopila, 64.
Tulip, 119.

Turnip, 218.

Vatiota, 44.

Vanda, 64,

Vegetable marrow, 218
Vegetables, 197 et seq.
Verschaffeltia, 92.
Vinca, 14.

Vivla, 149.

| Woopsta, 75.

Woodwardia, 72.
Wreath, a floral, 151

Yucoa, 51.

ZYGOPETALUM 65.

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