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Gornell University Library
Ithaca, Nem York
WORDSWORTH COLLECTION
MADE BY
CYNTHIA MORGAN ST. JOHN
ITHACA, N. Y-
THE GIFT OF
VICTOR EMANUEL
CLASS OF 1919
1925
LOWER
We
TO THE
BY
HARRIET MARTINEAU.
Engraved by WBanks Bais
ohhe nell. Bp Wasedle;
pe VE Len va
Ae
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A. Wi, Ce CEx y Le X
WINDERMERE: -JOHN GARNETT.
LONDON-LONGMAN & C0, SIMPKIN, MARSHALL &C9,
HAMILTON&C9
COMPLETE GUIDE
TO THE
ENGLISH LAKES,
BY
HARRIET MARTINEAU,
ILLUSTRATED FROM DRAWINGS BY T. L. ASPLAND
AND W. BANKS.
THIRD HDITION.
Evited and enlarged by SMaria Martineau,
WINDERMERE:— JOHN GARNETT.
LONDON :
WHITTAKER & CO.; HAMILTON, ADAMS, & CO.; LONGMAN & CO.;
SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO.
\ OF Ree eee
UWNiVde nh ett)
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| PRINTED BY JOHN GARNETT, WINDERMERE.
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PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.
THE KNoLL, AMBLESIDE,
March 12th, 1855.
It is now some months since I committed the
manuscript of this Lake Guide to the Publisher’s
hands; and now that the work is just ready to
appear, I am thankful to him for the opportunity
of saying, in this prefatory page, with what pride
and pleasure I have looked over the accessories
and embellishments with which, by his zeal and
spirit, and by the admirable co-operation he has
been so fortunate as to secure, my humble work
is elevated to a quality of real importance. When
I look at the valuable Maps, Mr. Aspianp’s
beautiful illustrative Views, so finely engraved by
Mr. Banks; and again the Botanical contribu-
tions, so essential to the perfect understanding of
the Lake District, it seems to me that the book
has become, by all this aid, one which may not
only be in every Tourist’s hands, but find a place
on the library shelves of those who have never
visited, and may not contemplate visiting, this
ie PREFACE.
district of England. At the same time, the Di-
rectories (a new feature in a Guide Book) are
likely to make it valuable to residents, who need
no guide to the scenery near their homes. If my
gratitude to my coadjutors causes me to overrate
the product of our labours, I shall not at least be
mistaken in saying that we have all done our best
to set forth a true presentment of a land we love,
in the hope of inducing and enabling those who
live in town or plain to know and love it as we
do. If any think that we have painted it too fair,
and that we love it fanatically, let them come and
see.
H. MARTINEAU.
Cease ee |
CONTENTS.
PART I.
Page
WINDERMERE Rae wee Te es Roe aa
Bowness sete a ae Ata ee
Walk by Cook’s Hons na te Trout,
Steamboat Trip .. . ; verdes,
First Tour. To Furness abher and Gonicton eo
SeconD Tour. To Patterdale and Ambleside ... soo 246)
Turrp Tour. To Skelwith Bridge and Grasmere soo
A day on the Mountains... nes oe .. 86
PART II.
To Keswick, from Ambleside ee ie noo, oh
Excursions from Keswick aa Ba . 117
First Tour. Keswick to Lodore ... es . 117
SEconD Tour. By the Vale of Newlands, Gmamneck
Water, Scale Hill Inn, and back by Whinlatter Hoo. 37-453
TuirD Tour. Circuit of Bassenthwaite. ah ... 130
FovurtH Tour. Ascent of Skiddaw te .. 133
Firtg Tour. Ascent of Saddleback ee ... L384 -
PART III.
CIRCUIT OF THE LAKE DISTRICT.
First Tour. From Keswick by Patterdale to Ambleside... 147
SEconD Tour. From Ambleside to Strands and Wastwater 151
-Turrp Tour. From Strands and Wastwater to Scale Hill
Inn... ee AAD aa Ban ... 120
Fourrs Tovr. From Scale Hill to Keswick by Honister
Crag ial ree le AN Bi .., 180
ei
at, CONTENTS.
PART IV.
PASSES AND MOUNTAINS.
Page.
Langdale from Borrowdale, by the Stake Pass ... pce 4 SH
Path to Easedale a oe oe eel Oa
Path to Esk Hause BS es Bag son USD)
Sty Head Pass, from Wastdale to Borrowdale ... poe, AOL
Ascent of Scawfell ... me aon ia e206
Blacksail and Scarf Gap __.... aa 000 Sop). oral)
Ascent of Helvellyn BSG oe Siée noo CAL
Ascent of Coniston Old Man a: nes wes OLE
Hawes Water ae ASE ee sis noe PALL
Pass of Nanbield ... we i oe rn 2Zo
Ascent of High Street an ate coc nos. ZA8:
PART V.
Pedestrian Tours .., nk iS Mae Pa 2ol
PART VI.
Mrrrorotogy of the Lake District ie we. «2438
FLOWERING PLANTS, FERNS, AND MOSSES... see 248.
GxroLogy of the Lake District ae sd Page acafill
Economic MINERALOGY of the District eK ag KR
DIRECTORY.
TRAVELLING CHARGES.
During the season, the charges for carriages and drivers are
uniform, all over the district. It is probable that at other times
there may be some little diversity, depending on the amount of
custom; but the traveller may rely on the prices here given as a
safe rule.
It must be understood that the drivers of the country cars and
other vehicles are dependent on the payment they receive from
travellers. The innkeepers charge for the carriage and horses
only ; and the payment of the driver is therefore an established
one, and not considered dependent on the pleasure of the traveller.
The rate is threepence per mile outwards—the return journey
not being charged for. Another way, in which I have myself
been accustomed to pay, is sixpence per hour, — the driver having
the benefit of the fraction left over. On excursions which occupy
a day, or several days, the driver’s pay is five shillings per day.
The charge for a one-horse conveyance is one shilling per
mile. For a two-horse conveyance one shilling and sixpence
per mile. In case of a long stage, as for ten or twelve miles
there is a reduction to one shilling and fourpence. The return
journey is, of course, not charged for.
For conveyance to a certain point there is no charge for food
for man and horse; but if there is any waiting at the end of the
drive, in order to return, the feed of the horses and the driver’s
dinner will amount to about three shillings and sixpence. The
hire of a single-horse conveyance for the day is fifteen shillings,
and the drivers pay of five shillings makes it one pound a day,
exclusive of feed.
The tolls are invariably charged to the traveller.
“
COACH FARES AND ROUTES.
As the times of departure and other particulars are frequently
changed, the Tourist is recommended to provide himself with
Garnett’s Time Tables, published monthly, which may be had
of the principal booksellers in the Lake district.
Coach fares are about threepence per mile outside, and four-
pence-half-penny per mile inside.
The routes of the coaches are —
1.— From Windermere Railway Station to Ambleside, Gras-
mere and Keswick, over which line several run daily during the
season.
2.—From Ambleside to Patterdale, Lyulph’s Tower, and
Penrith.
3. — From Ambleside to Coniston.
4. — From Keswick to Cockermouth.
5.— From Keswick to lLyulph’s. Tower, Patterdale and
Penrith.
6.— From Keswick, via Greystoke, to Penrith.
7, — From Newby Bridge to Ulverston.
8.— From Newby Bridge to Grange.
9.— From the Ferry to Coniston.
Each of these of course perform the return journey.
CHARGES AT HOTELS AND PRIVATE LODGINGS.
During the season, which extends from May to November, the
charges are two shillings for breakfast (including meat, fish, &c.) ;
two shillings and sixpence for dinner; and one shilling and six-
pence for tea. A private sitting-room is charged two shillings and
sixpence per day. In some cases servants are charged in the bill;
we quote what may be considered the proper payments when
they are not: —ninepence per day for waiter, — sixpence per
day for chambermaid, and threepence per day for boots. If
the stay be longer than one day, the total payment should be one
shilling per day.
The charges for Private Apartments of a very good order, are
from ten to twelve shillings per week for each room, which
includes attendance. Sitting-room fire and the use of kitchen
fire are extra.
WINDERMERE AND CONISTON SECTION. oon :
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WINDERMERE AND ITS ENVIRONS.
A FEW years ago there was only one meaning
to the word WinpDERMERE. It then meant a lake
lying among mountains, and so secluded that it
was some distinction even for the travelled man
to have seen it. Now there is a Windermere
railway station, and a Windermere post-office and
hotel ; —a thriving village of Windermere, and a
populous locality. This implies that a great many
people come to the spot; and the spot is so changed
by their coming, and by other circumstances, that
a new guide-book is wanted; for there is much
more to point out than there used to be; and what
used to be pointed out now requires a wholly new
description. Such new guidance and description
we now propose to give.
The traveller arrives, we must suppose, by the_
railway from Kendal, having been dropped at the
Oxenholme Junction by the London
wiatwes, train from the south, or the Edin-
burgh and Carlisle train from the
north. The railways skirt the Lake District, but
A
2 - RAILWAY APPROACHES. ~
do not, and cannot penetrate it: for the obvious
reason that railways cannot traverse or pierce
granite mountains, or span broad lakes. If the
time shouldsever come when iron roads will in-
tersect the mountainous parts of Westmorland
and Cumberland, that time is not yet; nor is in
view, —loud as have been the lamentations of
some residents, as if it were to happen to-morrow.
No one who has ascended Dunmail Raise, or
visited the head of Coniston Lake, or gone by
Kirkstone to Patterdale, will for a moment imagine
that any conceivable railway will carry passengers
over those passes, for generations to come. It is
a great thing that steam can convey travellers
round the outskirts of the district, and up to its
openings. This is now effectually done; and it
is all that will be done by the steam locomotive
during the lifetime of anybody yet born. The
approach may now be made either by Windermere
‘or Coniston. In order to reach the latter place,
the main line must be left at Carnforth, the last
principal station before reaching Oxenholme by
the train from the south. But the most impor-
tant of the openings thus reached is that of Win-
dermere, and we will therefore presume that the
traveller begins his tour from this point.
The mountain-region of Cumberland and West-
morland has for its nucleus the cluster of tall
mountains of which Scawfell is the highest.
There are the loftiest peaks and deepest valleys.
These are surrounded by somewhat lower ridges
and shallower vales; and these again by others,
till the uplands are mere hills and the valleys
scarcely sunk at all. It is into these exterior un-
RAILWAY APPROACHES. 3)
dulations that the railways penetrate; and, at
the first ridge of any steepness, they must stop.
It is this which decides the termination of the
Windermere railroad, and which prevents the
_ lateral railways from coming nearer than the outer
base of the hills in any direction. When the
traveller on foot or horseback sees certain reaches
of Lake Windermere from Orrest Head, lying
down below him, he knows he is coming near
the end of the railway, which cannot yet plunge
and climb as our mail-roads must do, if they exist
here at all. As a general rule, lakes should be
approached from the foot, that the ridges may
rise, instead of sinking, before the observer’s eye.
But, so happy is the access to Windermere from
the station, that it is hard to say that it could
have been better; and that access is, not from the
south to its lower end, but from the south-east to
about its middle. The old coach-road over Orrest
Head, and the railway, meet at the new village of
Windermere, whence the road to Bowness descends,
winding for about a mile and a half, striking the
shore at a point rather more than half-way up the
lake, and commanding the group of mountains
that cluster about its head.
_. Supposing that the traveller desires to see the
Windermere scenery thoroughly, we shall divide
our directions into portions; first
muon "exhibiting what is to be seen in the
‘immediate neighbourhood of the Windermere
hotel, or within a moderate walk; and then de-
-seribing three tours, two of which may be easily
taken in a day each. One mountain-trip will be
added; and, these being faithfully prosecuted, the
ant: A 2
4 ORREST HEAD.
tourist may be assured that he has seen all that
falls within the scope of a summer visitor in the
opening region of the Lake District.
A few minutes will take him to Orrest Head,
where he will see a lovely view, —a picturesque
cottage roof, surrounded by trees, in
the foreground; grey rocks cropping
out. of the sward on the other side of the hedges ;
and in front, overlapping hills, range behind range,
with the grey waters of the lake lying below.
Already, a traveller who should remain any time
in the district, would find himself introduced to
the humours of a remote region. Odd sayings and
doings remain, and traditions of old singularities
are not lost. This place, Orrest Head, was the
residence of the noted Josiah Brown, who amused
himself, a century ago, with welcoming beggars,
whom he supplied with meat and lodging, — some-
times to the number of twenty in a night. He
called them his “jolly companions ;” and no doubt
he got a world of amusement out of them in return
for his hospitality. ‘The local saying, “that’s too
big a bo-o for a young horse,”’ was Josiah Brown’s,
and it was originated thus. He was breaking in a
young horse, when one of his men took a liberty,
—such as his servants were always taking with
him,— but in this case to be repented of. The
fellow hid himself behind a gate-post, and yelled
so tremendously as his master passed through
that Josiah was thrown, and broke his leg,
His goodnatured criticism was, “that was too
big a bo-o for a young horse;” and this
is still the proverbial expression of extreme
BUEDIIse)” > Jseiw te esos
ORREST HEAD,
ELLERAY. 5
The hill to the right is part of the Elleray
_ property, so well known as the lake home of
Christopher North, and afterwards so
much improved by Mr. Hastted. The
traveller’s first object should be to walk up that
‘hill at Hileray, by Mr. Hastted’s new drive. All
the way up, the views are exquisite: but that from
_the summit,— about 650 feet above the lake,— is
one of the finest the district can show. The whole
length of Windermere extends below, with its
enclosing hills and wooded islands; and towards
the head, some of the highest peaks and ridges
may be seen:— Coniston Old Man to the west;
Bowfell and Langdale Pikes to the north-west ;
Fairfield to the “north, with Loughrigg lying,
as a mere dark ridge, across the head of Win-
dermere; while, to the north-east, Troutbeck is
disclosed, with its peaks of High Street and IIl
Bell. All below are woods, with houses peeping
out; on a height of the opposite shore, Wray
Castle; further north, the little Brathay Chapel,
set down near the mouth of the valley; and be-
_ tween Loughrigs and the lake, at its head, the
white houses of Clappersgate, with the chateau-
like mansion of Croft Lodge conspicuous above
the rest. This view is a eood deal like the one
_ from the hill behind the Windermere hotel, which
is reached"by a lane turning off from Orrest
| Head. The Hlleray one is the most extensive and
- complete to the north; but to enjoy the other,
leave will be readily obtained at the hotel. There
is also a delightful public walk through the Elleray
estate, passing by the picturesque cottage where
“the professor” first lived; then under Hlleray
A 3
ELLERAY,
6 WINDERMERE VILLAGE.
Bank, and through the shady copse of The Wood
and. St. Catherine’s estates into the Troutbeck
road. It is a near cut to the traveller who has
Troutbeck or Kirkstone Pass and Ullswater in
view.
WINDERMERE VILLAGE.
The village of Windermere is like nothing that
is to be seen any where else. Young as the place
1s, it has already a public news-room and library,
and a gallery of pictures, chiefly by resident artists,
and representing the scenery of the district. The
new buildings (and all are new) are of the dark grey
stone of the region, and several of them are of a
medizval style of architecture. The Rev. J. A.
Addison, late of Windermere, had a passion for
ecclesiastical architecture ; and his example has been
a good deal followed. There is the Church of
St. Mary, and there are the schools belonging to
it, with their steep roofs of curiously-shaped slates,
both of which the Parsonage* overlooks. There is
also the new College of St. Mary, standing in a fine
position, between the main road and the descent to
the lake. This College, — which may be distin-
guished by its square tower,— was originally in-
tended as a place of education for the sons of the
clergy; but having proved unsuccessful in that
form, it is now established on an entirely new
basis, and, under the management of G. Hale
Puckle, M.A., of St. John’s College, Cambridge,
* It has been found most convenient to give only the names of
the houses, throughout this volume. If the traveller is curious
to know those of the dwellers in them, he will find the informa-
tion in a table at the end.
MILLERGROUND BAY. 7
and B. A. Irving, M.A., of Emmanuel College,
. - Cambridge, is already one of the most extensive
‘and best-conducted seminaries in England. The
first gateway beyond the Church is that of St.
Mary’s Abbey, (new in spite of its antique name) ;
and the adjoining gate opens upon the footpath
through Rayrigg wood to the lake.
It is a pleasant shady path of about half a mile, passing, at its
lower end, a rocky stream with picturesque falls, and ending on
_ the shore of the lake at Miller Ground bay. This is the widest
part of Windermere; and the stranger will be glad to have
seen it from this poimt. Here a few boats are kept for hire;
and tourists staying at Windermere will find it a convenient
starting-place for many a pleasant trip. The quiet beauty of
the bay will be an attraction to those strangers who may pre-
fer it to more frequented landing places. The lake is described
a few pages further on, as seen from Bowness. It may be men-
tioned here that the trees on the right are the Calgarth woods,
planted by Bishop Watson. Skirting the lake, there is a quiet
path, leading along its margin to Calgarth. After rain, how-
ever, it is apt to be flooded.
Returning to the main road, St. Mary’s Cottage
is close by the entrance to the path we have been
describing : and beyond are the Lodge, the Grange,
and Hazlethwaite, a cluster of houses command-
a ing grand views of the head of the lake. Th
large house pn the right, and amidst the woods
of the Elleray estate, is Oakland, built by the
late John Gandy, Esq. Higher up on the hill-
-side are The Bingle, and Hlleray Bank. The
pretty villa residence a little further on, on the
same side of the road, is The Wood; and, at the
turn of the road, Winlass Beck, the property of
Peter Kennedy, Esq.
We have been supposing the tourist to be visit-
ing the northern outskirts of the village, in the
8 WINDERMERE TO BOWNESS.
direction of Ambleside. We shall now conduct him
in the opposite direction, towards Bowness. Pas-
sing down High Street and St.
Mary’s Road, we see, to the right,
the College; then Fairhaven, on the left; and a
little further on, on a geutle elevation, the neat
villa and grounds of Ellerthwaite. Half a mile
further on is the Hydropathic establishment,* and
then, to the right, the cottage of Mylnbeck, a
common house in its aspect towards the road, but
as seen over the wall, very pretty in its garden-
front. The next gate on the left is the entrance
to the Craig: and the villa on the right is Craig
Foot, both built by Admiral Sir Thos. S. Pasley.
Below this, the houses begin to thicken about the
entrance to Bowness. Among them, a road to the
left leads to one of the most charming points of
view in the neighbourhood, —a hill named Bisket
How, crested with rock, which affords as fine a
station as the summit of Llleray for a view of
the entire lake and its shores.
Tourists who have only limited time at com-
mand will not remain at Windermere: but, for
“ zxcurstoxs those who take things more easily,
FROM there is much to tempt tg a sojourn of
wee at least a few days. There are pleasant
walks, with fine views of the lake and mountains,
in every direction; and there are one or two dis-
tant excursions which are more easily made from
this point than any other,— the ascent of Ili Bell
TO BOWNESS,
* A gate may be observed just before reaching this point, which
is the entrance to footpaths leading over the higher ground in
the direction of the Railway station, and affording a pleasant
walk, and fine views of the lake and its surroundings.
BOWNESS. ig
D and High Street. It may be worth observing
ae
that the name of the first mentioned of these
mountains is generally written Hill Bell. This is
a mistake. The old name is Ill Bell —7// meaning,
- in this connexion, evil, difficult, 2.¢. difficult of
ascent. The natives of the district call it Ill
- Bell, and the addition of the H in writing at-
tributes to them a cockneyism which does not
enter into their dialect. These excursions will be
described in their proper places, in connexion with
the drive through Troutbeck, as the traveller will
have to pass through that valley before he begins
his ascent.
BOWNESS.
Bowness is the port of Windermere. There the
new steamboats put up; and thence go forth
the great number of fishing and pleasure boats
which adorn the lake. There is a good deal
of bustle in the place; and the tower parts, near
the water, are very hot in summer: and the more
since the building of a new lodging-house in a
space near the church, which used to be called the
- lungs of Bowness. The three great inns, however,
are in airy situations; the garden platform of the
Royal Hotel, so called since the visit of Queen
Adelaide in 1840, overlooking the gardens that
slope down to the shore; and the Crown and
Victoria being on a hill which commands the whole
place. These inns are extremely well managed;
and it is for the traveller to say whether their |
charges, which are uniform, justify a complaint
which has been made, (we think unreasonably as
regards the Lake District in general) of high prices. —
10 BOWNESS.
During the season, which extends from May to
_ November, the charges are two shillings for break-
fast, (including meat, fish, &c.,) two
shillings and sixpence for dinner; and
one shilling and sixpence for tea. A private sitting-
room is charged two shillings and sixpence per
day. Nothing can well exceed the beauty of the
view from the garden seats of the Crown.
Bowness has recently added to its attractions a
' very excellent model of the District, made and now
exhibited by Mr. Howe. This model
well deserves careful inspection, and
its owner, from his intimate know-
ledge of every part of the district, is able to
give valuable advice to tourists who wish to see
the country thoroughly. No better commencement
can be made than a consultation with Mr. Howe
over his accurate model.
The old churchyard of Bowness, with its dark
yews, and the old weather-worn church, long and
low, is the most venerable object in
nowness _ the place. The chancel window of the
church contains painted glass from
Furness Abbey. The tomb of Bishop Watson will
be found in the churchyard, near the east window.
The rectory, which is hardly less venerable than
the church, stands at a considerable distance from
the village, and is approached through fields and a
garden. The old-fashioned porch is there, of which
this is said to be the last remaining instance in
the whole district, — the roomy, substantial porch,
with benches on each side, long enough to hold a
little company of parishioners, and a round ivy-
clad chimney immediately surmounting the porch.
INN CHARGES,
MODEL OF THE
DISTRICT,
WINDERMERE LAKE. 11
Within, there is abundant space, with little eleva-
tion ;— plenty of room in the hall and parlours,
with ceilings that one can touch with the hand.
Almost every other noticeable edifice in Bowness
is new, or at least modern; the schools, the gift of
the late Mr. Bolton, of Storrs Hall,—the Italian
villa called Belsfield, and many others.
The visitor will first repair to the strand to
salute the waters. He will find a good quay, with
boats in abundance, and several boat-
eee ~6hhouses. within view. 113
without longing to follow the paths seen to wind
through the woods above the Greta. Southey in
his “ Colloquies,” speaks of the scenery here as “ of
the finest and most rememberable kind.” =“ From
a jutting isthmus, round which the tortuous river
twists, you look over its manifold windings, up the
water to Blencathra; down it, over a high and
wooded middle-ground, to the distant mountains
of Newlands, Causey Pike, and Grisedale.” The
scenery of Latrigg, however, is treated of in con-
mexion with the ascent of Skiddaw; and, again,
the Druidical Temple is described at the beginning
of the ascent to Saddleback. The points of view
near Bassenthwaite are designated in the course of
that circuit ; and the high roads which traverse the
plain may speak for themselves. But the whole
range along the skirts of Skiddaw, from Latrigg
to Bassenthwaite village, (which is eight miles
from Keswick), commands views so fine that the
stranger’s attention should be specially drawn to it.
Southey declared, in his “ Colloquies,” that “the
best general view of Derwent Water is from the
terrace between Applethwaite and Milbeck, a little
below the former hamlet. The old roofs and chim-
neys of the hamlet,” he continues, “come finely
in the foreground, and the trees upon the Ormath-
waite estate give there a richness to the middle-
ground which is wanting in other parts of the
vale.” From that terrace the traveller may return
by Latrigg, if he has come by the straight road
from Keswick: and the whole circuit is only seven
yiles. But if he chooses to go on as far as the sum-
mit of Dod Fell, he will find himself abundantly
repaid. Dod Fell is an infant Skiddaw, nestling
H
baie cs,
114 --« GAUSEY PIKE, | |
under its parent on the south-western side, — half
way between the mountain and the head of Bassen-
thwaite. The ascent is perfectly easy; and the
summit commands, not only the two lakes, their
immediate plain and surrounding mountains, but
the vale of Lorton, the Solway, and the Scotch
range of summits beyond,
VII. Turning now to the western side of the
Lake, the stranger will please himself among the
various tracks which he will find be-
tween the river Derwent on its issue
from the lake, and Derwent Water Bay, — the
chief harbour of the lake. He will visit Portin-
scale, a mile from Keswick, and, turning south-
wards, descend at pleasure to the margin of the
water through the woods at Faw Park, or ascend
Swinside; or go on to the hamlet of Swinside,
at the entrance of the vale of Newlands, — little
more than two miles from Keswick. He can
take his choice whether to climb Catbells, or under-
take the more arduous enterprise of ascending
Causey Pike. If he goes up Causey Pike, the
summit of which is three miles from the nearest
part of the lake-shore, he ought to have a guide,
and will be wise to make the whole round by the
ridges which connect Grassmoor with Grisedale
Pike, whence the descent is easy upon Braithwaite,
a village two and a half miles from Keswick. This
is a most lovely circuit, commanding first and last
the bright and populous valley of the two lakes,
and, for the rest of the way, the Vale of Newlands,
with its quiet sheep-walks and folds, and the green
steeps of Buttermere Haws, and the wild recesses
of the mountain group occupying the space between
OQAUSEY PIKE.
CATBELLS, 115
Crummock Water and Derwent Water; while to
the north-west from Grisedale Pike stretches the
Vale of Lorton, with its multitudinous fields and
scattered hamlets, and the Cocker winding its way
to join the Derwent at Cockermouth. The Solway
and the Scotch mountains are on the horizon.
VIII. If the milder enterprise of ascending
Catbells is preferred, well and good; for that, too,
is a charming walk: but, in that case,
a boat should be ordered to be in wait-
ing in Derwent Water Bay, or a car at Grange,
at the entrance of Borrowdale. Instead of going
quite to Swinside, the traveller will pursue the road
past Swinside Cottage, on the way to the two
farmhouses of Gutherscale and Skelghyll, on the
skirts of the smooth green mountain of Catbells.
If he does not mind bits of bogey ground, he has
nothing to fear, — always supposing the weather to
- remain clear, and that he ‘es either compass or
guide. Looking across the Vale of Newlands, he
sees the whole group of summits which overhang
Crummock Water and Buttermere; and if he
comes down after traversing the ridge of Maiden
Moor, he looks into Borrowdale, as it stretches
southwards, even seeing the Langdale Pikes, and
the great mountain group above Wastwater. From
Maiden Moor, he will descend by a track in the
turf, close upon Grange; and he can return either
by car, or by meeting his boat in Derwent Water
Bay. In the last case, he will follow the road back
which skirts Catbells at some height above the lake,
or will turn into the foot-path which leads through
the woods and over the meadows of Brandelow Park,
coming out upon Derwent Water Bay at Hawse End.
H 2
CATBELLS,
4
116 - WALKS, ©
. These are the principal walks about Keswick ;
and they will occupy a week of fine weather for
ordinary walkers. Those who remain longer can
find plenty more. We have only undertaken to
point out such as the stranger would be most sorry
to miss.
Peet Cs
EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK.
FIRST TOUR.
WATENDLATH, BORROWDALE, ROSTHWAITE, GRANGE, LODORE.
From Keswick to Watendlath 5 miles,
Via Watendlath to Rosthwaite 600 600 aco og
» Rosthwaite to Lodore ..,. oo ood 006 Go 8 ey
» Lodore to Keswick 0 ie oon ee
Total 13 =,
Tr the tourist desires (as it is to be hoped that he
does), to see one of the primitive valleys of the
district, — one of those recesses lapped
in the mountains, where the sounds of
eivilized life have hardly penetrated, let him now
go to Watendlath, (locally called Wathendal,)
and descend into Borrowdale by Rosthwaite. The
circuit is one of thirteen miles; and it must be
accomplished on foot or horseback; for there is
no carriage-road in the upper part. So few pass
that way that the women afford a remarkable
specimen of the effects of a life of exclusive seclu-
sion, The men go to markets and sales, and have
-more use. of their tongues and wits accordingly.
The road along the lake side is followed till it gives
out a branch before reaching Barrow House. Up
H 3
_ WAENDLATH,
118 WATENDLATH AND ROSTHWAITE. .
this by-road the explorer goes, and passes behind
and above Barrow House, soon reaching the stream
that feeds the Barrow Fall, which may be visited
by strangers in the grounds below.
The upland valley runs parallel with
the lower one; and in it hes the clear circular pool
which feeds the fall of Lodore. Good climbers
may find their way up from Lodore to Watendlath
by following the course of the stream,
but there is no path, part of the way,
and the whole ascent is rather adventurous. The
walks over to Thirlmere have already been given at
p- 103. Our business now is to follow the track
BARROW FALL.
WATENDLATH.
before us. It takes us to the little foot-bridge |
between the tarn and the verge of the crag; and
the peep down the chasm shows the lake and the
Skiddaw range in beautiful union. Helvellyn rises
to the east, and Scawfell and Bowfell show them-
selves in front, all the way down to Borrowdale.
The descent into Rosthwaite is the concluding treat.
The way is easy,—a gentle slope over grass and
elastic heather; and the whole surface is starred over
with bright heath flowers. The head of the dale, —
imposing under all aspects, — opens out and seems
to be spreading its green levels for the stranger’s rest.
The passes to Langdale by the Stake, to Wastdale .
by Sty Head, and to Buttermere by Honister Crag, ©
disclose themselves round the projecting Glaramara.
The other way he Grange and the lake; and
beneath lies Rosthwaite, with the brat-
vosmwva™ thing stream behind, which must be
crossed by the new stone bridge to reach the little
inn. ‘This inn has been lately enlarged, and now
offers comfortable accommodation to travellers who
BORROWDALE. 119
may wish to remain in this beautiful dale. Before
turning his face lakewards, the traveller must go
forward a few yards from the inn, to where he will
see a narrow entrance and steps in the right-hand
fence. He must go in there, and mount that little
hill, called Castlehill, whence the truest and best
total view of Borrowdale is obtained; for the
station is nearly central.
He is now standing in the middle of that far-
famed Borrowdale of which so many curious tales
are told. Its inhabitants were once
considered as primitive as we now
consider those of Watendlath; and a good deal
more, if the current stories are true. It is said
that an old Borrowdale man was once sent a very
long way for something very new, by some inno-
vator who had found his way into the dale. The
man was to go with horse and sacks (for there were
no carts, because there was no road) to bring some
lime from beyond Keswick. On his return, when
he was near Grange, it began to rain; and the
man was alarmed at seeing his sacks begin to
smoke. He got a handful of water from the river ;
but the smoke grew worse. Assured at length
that the devil must be in any fire which was
aggravated by water, he tossed the whole load over
into the river. That must have been
recat before the dalesmen built their curious
wall; for they must have had lime
for that. Spring being very charming in Bor-
- rowdale, and the sound of the cuckoo gladsome,
the’ people determined to build a wall to keep
in the cuckoo, and make the spring last for ever.
So they built a wall across the entrance, at
BORROWDALE,
120 BORROWDALE.
Grange. The plan did not answer; but that was,
according to the popular belief from generation
to generation, because the wall was not built one
course higher. It is simply for want of a top-
course in that wall that eternal spring does not
reign in Borrowdale. Another anecdote shows,
however, that a bright wit did occasionally show
himself among them. A “statesman” (an “estates-
man,” or small proprietor) went one day to a
distant fair, or sale, and brought home what neither
he nor his neighbours had ever seen before —a pair
of stirrups. Home he came jogging, with his feet
in his stirrups; but, by the time he reached his
own door, he had jammed his feet in so fast that
they would not come out. There was great alarm
and lamentation; but as it could not be helped
now, the good man patiently sat his horse in the
pasture for a day or two, his family bringing him
food, till the eldest son, vexed to see the horse
suficring by exposure, proposed to bring them both
into the stable. This was done; and there sat
the farmer for several days, — his food being
brought to him as before. At length it struek
the second son that it was a pity not to make his
father useful, and release the horse; so he proposed
to carry him, on the saddle, into the house. By
immense exertion if was done; the horse being
taken alongside the midden in the yard, to easé*the
fall: and the good man found himself under his
own roof again, — spinning wool in a corner of the
kitchen. There the mounted man sat spinning,
through the cleverness of his second son, till the
lucky hour arrived of the youngest son’s return,—
he being a scholar,—a learned student from St.
BORROWDALE, 12]
Bees. After duly considering the case, he gave his
counsel. He suggested that the goodman should
draw his feet out of his shoes. This was done,
amidst the blessings of the family; and the good
man was restored to his’ occupation and to liberty.
The wife was so delighted that she said if she had
a score of children, she would make them all
scholars, —if only she had to begin life again.
_ It is by no means to be supposed, however, that
there was no wit in the valley, but what came from
St. Bees. On the contrary, a native genius, on
one occasion, came to a conclusion so striking that
that it is doubtful whether any university could
rival it. A stranger came riding into the dale on
a mule, and, being bound for the mountains, went
up the pass on foot, leaving the animal in the care
of his host. The host had never seen such a
ereature before, nor had his neighbours. Fearing
mischief, they consulted the wise man of the dale ;
- for they kept a Sagum, or medicine-man, to supply
their deficiencies. He came, and after an exam-
ination of the mule, drew a circle round tt,
and consulted his books while his charms were
burning, and, at length, announced that he had
found it ; the creature must be, he concluded, a
peacock. So Borrowdale could then boast, without
a rival, of a visit from a stranger who came riding
on a peacock. There is a real and strong feeling
in the district about these old stories. Only last
year, when a Borrowdale man entered a country
inn, a prior guest said simply “Cuckoo,” and was
instantly knocked down; and a passionate fight
ensued. This cannot last much longer, — judging
by the number of new houses, — abodes of gentry,
122 GRANGE.
—built or building in Borrowdale. The wrath
must presently turn to a laugh in the humblest
chimney-corner i in the dale.
Rosthwaite is beautifully situated near the centre
of the dale, and at the confluence of the two
mountain-brooks which form the Der-
went. This river flows through the
lakes of Derwent Water and Bassenthwaite, passes
Cockermouth, and falls into the sea at Workington.
Following its course, the traveller reaches the
Bowder Stone, at a mile from Rosthwaite, — a
fallen rock, standing on its point, and
about thirty feet high, and sixty long.
There are steps for ascent to the top; but it is as
well seen from below, where it cannot but catch
the eye of the passenger. A mile further lies
Grange, at the entrance of the dale, with its
undulating bridges crossing the wind-
ings of the river. When the abbots
of Furness owned the whole of Borrowdale, a few
monks were placed at its entrance to receive and
guard the crops; and this place was their granary.
It is now a picturesque hamlet, which must be
familiar to all who haunt exhibitions of pictures.
Nobody who carries a pencil can help sitting down
on the grass to sketch it. Just behind it, the
noble wooded rock, which leaves room only for
the road and the river, is Castle Crag ; and nimble
youths who have reached its summit say the view
is splendid. It is, in itself, a fine spectacle.
After this, the traveller begins to listen for the
fall of Lodore, and he finds the i inn at a distance of
a mile from Grange. It is a delightful inn, clean
and well-managed, and by its situation preferable to
ROSTHWAITE,
BOWDER STONE.
GRANGE.
LODORE CATARACT. 123
those at Keswick, except for the convenience of head
quarters. ‘To visit the fall, the way
is through the gay little garden, and
the orchard, (where the fish preserves are terrible
temptations to waste of time,) and over a fvot-
bridge, and up into the wood, where the path leads
to a mighty chasm. It is the chasm, with its
mass of boulders and magnificent flanking towers
of rock, that makes the impressiveness of the Lo-
dore fall, more than the water. No supply short of
a full river or capacious lake could correct the
disproportion between the channel and the flood.
After the most copious rains, the spectacle is of a
multitude of little falls, and nowhere of a sheet
or bold shoot of water. The noise is prodigious, as
the readers of Southey’s description are aware: and
the accessaries are magnificent. Gowder Crag on
the left, and Shepherd’s Crag on the right, shine
in the sun, or frown in gloom like no other rocks
about any of the falls of the district; and vegeta-
tion flourishes everywhere, from the pendulous
shrubs in the fissures, two hundred feet overhead,
‘to the wild flowers underfoot in the wood. On a
lustrous summer evening, when the hghts are
radiant, and the shadows sharp and deep, the scene
is incomparable, whatever may be the state of the
water. When the stream is fullest, and the wind
is favourable, it is said the fall is heard the distance
of four miles. There is something else to be heard
here; and that is the Borrowdale echoes. A can-
non is planted in the meadow before the inn, which
awakens an uproar from the surrounding crags to
Glaramara. |
The road from Lodore to Keswick, about three
LODORE,
ears TO KESWICK FROM LODORE.
miles, runs between the lake and the Wallabarrow
and Falcon Crags. It is a charming walk in all
_ seasons, — sheltered in winter; shady, for the most
part, in summer; and in spring and autumn pre-
senting a vast variety of foliage, bursting forth or
fading.
SECOND TOUR.
BY THE VALE OF NEWLANDS, CRUMMOCK WATER, SCALE HILL
INN, AND BACK BY WHINLATTER.
From Keswick to Portinscale a 0606 boo s. 14 miles.
To Swinside_.... oes we me aa coo Prien! Ceara
» Keskadale ... 00 ol gon 000 sao eee aes
» Newlands Haws ... a0 ood 506 Ae ooo eh
3, Buttermere Inn .., 00d 300 Sod wee Goo.) dR ee
» scale Hill ay vas 4 5
», Lorton Kee nba as
» Summit of Whinlatter B} es
2» Braithwaite ... coe 25 ”
» Keswick ve 2H gy
Total 26 ,,
Tue tour which embraces the country between the
four lakes, Derwent Water, Buttermere, Crum-
mock Water, and Bassenthwaite, is one of twenty-
six miles; and it should be allowed to occupy the
greater part of a day, —time being taken both for
survey and refreshment. Its outset will afford a
good opportunity for visiting Greta
caostawarte Hall, Southey’s abode, and his monu-
ment in Crosthwaite Church: a re-
cumbent statue by Lough, — the inscription being
written by Wordsworth. This church well deserves
a visit for other reasons. It is very old, part
of it dating back to the 13th century. In one
of the windows is preserved some stained glass
from Furness Abbey, representing St. Anthony
with bell and book. There is also a tomb of the
time of Edward III., with a very perfect monu-
126 VALE OF NEWLANDS.
mental brass; and an old font, curiously carved
with emblematical designs. The villages along the
road, beginning with Portinscale, will exhibit their
own evidence of the employment of the inhabitants
in the woollen manufacture; an ancient staple of
the town and district, as is shown by the inscrip-
tion which has come down from the olden time,
engraven on a flagstone.
“May God Almighty grant His aid
To Keswick and its woollen trade.”
Afterwards, the views over the rich plain, and
glimpses into fertile valleys are charming, till the
road winds in among what the oldest guide-books
truly call the solemn pastoral scenes that open
after leaving Keskadale. The houses of Keskadale
are the last seen before entering on the ascent
of Newlands Haws. The vale, formed
Newinns. by the rapid slope of mountains that
are bare of trees, boggy in parts, and
elsewhere showing marks of winter slides, is wholly
unlike anything else in the district. Its silence,
except for the bleating of sheep; its ancient folds,
down in the hollow; the length and steepness of
the ascent ; and the gloom of the mountain, —
Great Robinson, with its tumbling white cataract,
— render this truly “a solemn pastoral scene.” At
the head of the vale, it is found not to be shut in;
a turn to the right discloses a new landscape. A
descent between green slopes of the game character
leads down directly upon Buttermere. The opposite
side of the hollow is formed by the mountain White»
lees. The stream at the bottom flows into Crummock
Water ; and the four peaks of High Crag, Hayrick,
High Stile, and Red Pike, are ranged in front.
UVT PLENUM LLOS § MOOWNNY
SCALE FORCE. 12 7
The Lake of Buttermere and Honj
must be left for another day. To-day, ae
to the right, and not to the left. The traveller
may proceed alone Crummock Water either b
boat or in his carriage. Or he may leave the horse
to bait at Buttermere while he takes a boat to see
Scale Force and returns.
The meadow between the two lakes is not more
than a mile in extent, The walk to the boat lies
through its small patches of pasture
and wooded knolls; and a pretty walk
itis. The path is prolonged to Scale Force over
the fields; but it is usually too swampy to be agree-
able, when a boat can be had. A short row brings
the stranger to the mouth of the stream from the
force; and he has then to walk a mile amon
stones, and over grass, and past an old fold. There
is a way across the fell from this point to Enner-
dale, which will be described hereafter. The chasm
between two walls of rock, which are feathered with
bright waving shrubs, affords a fall of one hundred
and sixty feet, — high enough to convert the
waters into spray before they reach the ground. It
is one of the loftiest waterfalls in the country; and
some think it the most elegant. There is a point
of view not far off which the traveller should visit.
His boat will take him to the little promontory
below Mellbreak, called Ling Crag. From two
hundred yards or rather more above this, he will
see the two lakes and their guardian-mountains to
the greatest advantage.
The drive along Crummock Water is one of the
most charming we know; especially where the road
forms a terrace, overhanging the clear waters, and
SCALE FORCE.
128 SCALE HILL.
sweeping round Rannerdale Knot. Mellbreak
fills up the opposite shore, with its
ovum isolated bulk; and Red Pike discloses
its crater; both being streaked with
red and lead-coloured screes, and tracks of bright —
verdure and brighter moss. On the side where the
road is, Whitelees, Grassmoor, and Whiteside rear
their swelling masses ; and the road winds pleasant-
ly among fields and meadows, till it passes behind
the Lanthwaite Woods, and turns down, in full
view of the rich Vale of Lorton, to Scale Hill Inn.
This inn should be the traveller’s rest-
soar ™ 6 ing-place for days together, if he
desires a central point whence he may
visit a great extent of the Lake-country, while in
command of a variety of pleasures near at hand.
From Scale Hill he can descend into the Vale of
Lorton, and enjoy a change from the ruggedness of
the dales. Or, he may visit the most solemn and
imposing of the lakes, — Wast Water: and also
Ennerdale. He commands all the roads to Keswick,
and the vales that lie between. Crummock Water
yields char, as well as every other lake-fish, in
abundance. The mountain tops are accessible;
from Low Fell, which may be a lady’s morning
walk, to Red Pike, which is a pretty good day’s
scramble for a stout student. There is Lowes
Water at one end of Crummock, and Buttermere
at the other; and at home there is a spacious,
clean, airy house, standing in a pleasant garden.
A few minutes will take the stranger up to the
Station, by a path from the inn door. The Station
is a hill in Lanthwaite Wood, whence a mag-
nificent view is obtained of a stern mountain-
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“YALWM MIOWWNYHS GOOM ALIVMHLNY1 WOYS NAAS SNIVLINNOW
WHINLATTER, 129
group, (the central group of the whole district,)
on the one hand, and the rich level of
Lorton Vale on the other, backed, in
favourable lights, by the Scotch mountains, This
spot is one on which to linger through a long sum-
mer day, pacing the sward, and choosing seats from
rock to rock, along the whole crest. The stranger
must*now, however, take this brief survey, and hope
to come again. He has twelve miles to go to Kes-
wick ; and the early part of it is steep and slow.
The turn is to the right, at about a mile from
Scale Hill, leaving the Cockermouth road, which
traverses the Vale of Lorton. The higher he as-
cends, the more lovely are the views over that
vale which the traveller obtains, till at length the
Solway gleams in the sun, and the Scotch moun-
tains appear beyond. If he has good eyes, the
driver will point out to him, at a vast distance, the
famous old Lorton yew, appearing lke a dark
clump, beside a white farmhouse. When fairly
under Whinlatter, six or seven miles
from Scale Hill, he cannot but admire,
—§in one or the other sense of the word, — the
colouring of the hill itself, if the time be anywhere
from June to September. The gaudy hues of the
mingled gorse and heather are, at that season, unlike
any exhibition of colour we have seen elsewhere, —
exceeding even the far-famed American forests. As
the north-western vision vanishes, the south-western
opens; and the vale of Keswick and Skiddaw in its
noblest aspect, with the lakes far below, looks finer
than ever. After passing through Braithwaite, he
soon recognises the road, and returns to Keswick
by the well-known bridge over the Derwent.
I
THE STATION,
WHINLATTER.
THIRD TOME.
CIRCUIT OF BASSENTHWAITE. é
From Keswick to Peel Wyke... 8 miles.
To Ouse Bridge... tae Bi 200 oon ae ore ML Lys
» Castle Inn ... bc is bop oe ses cast ele
» Bassenthwaite Bo bot 7 onc FAs to ua hss
» Keswick Gaees
Totaly 1S ae,
BassENTHWAITE is, perhaps, the last of the lakes to
be visited, unless it be Hawes Water. Hawes
Water is difficult of access to the or-
dinary tourist; and Bassenthwaite
verges towards the flat country, which is not what
the traveller came to visit. It is amusing to observe
how the residents in the district become more
sensible every year to the beauty of the merely
undulating country through which the mountains
sink into thé plains; while the strangers have
hardly patience to look at it, in their eagerness to
find themselves under the shadow of the great
central fells. Bassenthwaite is one of the outer-
most lakes: and it is therefore no more cared for
by the tourist in general than the foot of Coniston
or Windermere. Still, considering that Skiddaw
overshadows its eastern shore, it would seem wor-
thy of some attention ; and the drive of eighteen
miles round it is, m truth, a very pleasant one.
This lake is larger than Derwent Water, being
four miles in length and one mile in breadth. The
BASSENTHWAITE.
BASSENTHWAITE. 131
distance from lake to lake is between three and
four miles, a large proportion of which is apt to be
flooded in winter; and occasionally the waters
actually join, so as to present the appearance of a
lake ten miles long, — the length of Windermere.
These floods are a serious drawback to the pro-
ductiveness of the lake levels, and the health and
comfort of the inhabitants.
The side opposite Skiddaw is the more interest-
ing of the two; so the traveller takes it first. The
road passes through Portinscale and Braithwaite to
Thornthwaite, and leaves Whinlatter on the left,
It passes through woods and pretty glades, which
make a charming foreground, while old Skiddaw
fills the view on the opposite shore. Lord’s Seat
and Barf rise boldly to the left ; and the road runs,
for the most part, on the margin of the lake. It
winds round after passing Peel Wyke, to Ouse
Bridge, beneath which the lake discharges itself
in the form of the much enlarged river Derwent,
which flows away towards, Cockermouth.
About a hundred yards east of Ouse Bridge, there is a gate
with a path leading through a wood to the foot of the lake. ‘This
point of the shore offers incomparably the finest view of Bassen-
thwaite. The whole length of the lake is seen, with the majestic
slopes of Skiddaw on the east; Lord’s Seat and Barf are on
the west, and the head is closed in by the Walla Crags and
Helvellyn.
The Pheasant Inn, about a mile and a half from
Ouse Bridge, on the western side of the lake, is a
clean and comfortable little inn, and the best rest-
ing-place in this cireuit. If it is thought worth
while to go a mile or two out of the way for an
exceedingly fine view, the traveller will follow the
Hesket road for a mile beyond Castle Inn, and
12
Loe SKIDDAW.
ascend the Haws on the right. Thence he will see
a charming landscape,—the open vales of Embleton
and Isell, and the whole expanse of the lake, with
its rich terraced shores. From Castle Inn, it is
eight miles to Keswick. The road turns away from
the lake, and presents nothing more of remarkable
beauty. ,
If the traveller is disposed to make a long
instead of a short day’s work of this excursion, he |
may combine it with the ascent of Skiddaw. He
will begin with the mountain first, descending, if
on foot, by Longside. If he has a pony he must
come down further to the north. It is customary
for those who ride to descend on the Keswick side,
but guides who know the mountain well, do not
hesitate to conduct ladies on their ponies by this
northern route. The tourist comes into a good
path before he reaches Barkbath, and soon after
descends into the main road. He will then pursue
his way round Bassenthwaite, reversing the order
of the proceeding given above.
=k CAUSE Nee 5 Meee ee et
ROUTH »LoOUR:.
—___.
ASCENT OF SKIDDAW.
THE ascent of Skiddaw is easy, even for ladies,
who have only to sit their ponies to find themselves
at the top, after a ride of six miles. There must
be a guide,— be the day ever so clear, and the path
ever so plain. Once for all let us say, in all
earnestness and with the most deliberate decision,
that no kind of tourist should ever cross the higher
passes, or ascend the mountains, without a guide.
Surely, lives enough have been lost, and there has
been suffering and danger enough short
of fatal issue, to teach this lesson. But
the confident and joyous pedestrian is not the most
teachable of human beings. In his heart he despises
the caution of native residents, and in his sleeve he
laughs at it. The mountain is right before him; the
track is visible enough ; he has a map and a guide-
book ; and boasts of his pocket-compass. With the
track on his map, and track on the mountain, how
could he get wrong? So he throws on his knapsack,
seizes his stick, and goes off whistling or singing,
— the host and hostess looking after him and con-
sulting as he strides away. For some time he
thinks he can defy all the misleading powers of
heaven and earth; but, once out of reach of human
help, he finds his case not so easy as he thought.
13
GUIDES.
134 ASCENT OF SKIDDAW.
Instead of one path, as marked on his map, he
finds three; and perhaps the one he relies on may
have disappeared under recent accidents, or have
lapsed into swamp. He finds himself on the edge
of a precipice, and does not know how far to go
back. He finds the bog deepen, and thinks he can
scarcely be in the right road. He finds a landslip,
which compels him to make a wider circuit, and
meantime it is growing dusk. Worst of all, a foe
may come on at any moment; and there is an end
of all security to one who does not know the little
wayside-marks which guide the shepherd in such
a case. Tales are current through the region of
the deaths of natives, even in the summer-months,
through fog, wet, fatigue, or fall,— the native
having a better chance than the stranger, ten
times over. And why should the risk be run?
It cannot be to save the fee, in the case of a
journey of pleasure. The guide is worth more
than his pay for the information he has to give,
to say nothing of the comfort of his carrying the
knapsack, — as many knapsacks as there are walk-
ers. If solitude be desired, the meditative gentle-
man will soon find that anxiety about the way, and
an internal conflict with apprehensiveness, are sad
spoilers of the pleasures of solitude. Better have a
real substantial, comfortable, supporting shepherd
by his side, giving his mind liberty for contempla-
tion and enjoyment of the scene, than the spectres
of the mountain perplexing him on all sides, and
marring his ease. But enough. Travellers who
know what mountain-climbing is, among loose
stones, shaking bog, and slippery rushes or grass,
with the alternative of a hot sun or a strong wind,
ASCENT OF SKIDDAW. 135
and perpetual liability to mist, will not dispute the
benefit of having a guide; and novices ought to
defer to their judgement. If we have seemed to
dwell long on this point, it is because warning is
grievously wanted. It will probably not be taken
by those who need it most; but it ought to be
offered. — Even in the mild ascent of green Skid-
daw, then, there is need of a guide.
At the distance of half a mile from Keswick,
on the Penrith road, just through the toll-bar, a
bridge crosses the Greta. The road,
after crossing this bridge, winds round
Latrigg. The path is at first through a wood, known
as Birket Wood. On emerging, the traveller sees a
gate into a field on the left. He must go a few
yards forward in this field, as it commands a
wonderfully fine view of the plain of Keswick,
the two lakes, Borrowdale and the surrounding
mountains. After returning to the road, about a
hundred yards further on, he may notice a zigzag
path on his right. This is the best ascent of
Latrigg, and is little known. His own way is
now in the direction of Low Man, and across’
the barren part known as Skiddaw Forest. The
traveller soon passes the King of Saxony’s well,
so-called because the King of Saxony and his
party dined here when they ascended Skiddaw. If
the stranger is thirsty, he must stop to refresh
himself here, for this is the only water he will get
till he descends. The plain of Keswick, and the
lake and its islands now grow smaller, and the sur-
rounding mountains seem to swell and rise as the
road gently climbs the side of Skiddaw; and when
about half way up, that lower world disappears,
SKIDDAW.
136 ASCENT OF SKIDDAW.
while a more distant one comes into view. The,
Irish Sea and the Isle of Man rise, and the Scotch
mountains show themselves marshalled on the hori-
zon. At the first summit, after a mile of craggy
ascent, steeper than the rest, the city of Carlisle
comes into view, with the coast and its little towns,
round to St. Bees, with the rich plains that lie be-
tween. But there is a higher point to be reached,
after an ascent of five hundred feet more; and here
Derwent Water comes into view again. And how
much besides! Few lakes are seen; but the sea
of mountain-tops is glorious, — and the surround-
ing plains,—and the ocean beyond,—and land
again beyond that. In opposite directions, lie
visible, Lancaster Castle and the hills of Kirkeud-
bright, Wigton, and Dumfries. Lancaster Castle
and Carlisle Cathedral in the same landscape!
and Snowdon and Criffel nodding to each other!
Ingleborough, in Yorkshire, looking at Skiddaw
over the whole of Westmorland that lies between ;
with the Isle of Man as a resting-place for the
glance on its way to Ireland! St. Bees Head,
with the noiseless waves dashing against the red
rock, being almost within reach as it were! And,
as for Scawfell, Helvellyn, and Saddleback, they
stand up like comrades, close round about. Charles
Lamb was no great lover of mountains: but he
enjoyed what he saw. ‘“O! its fine black head,”
he wrote of Skiddaw, “and the bleak air atop of
it, with a prospect of mountains all about, making
you giddy; and then Scotland afar off, and the
border-countries, so famous in song and ballad!
It is a day that will stand out like a mountain, I
am sure, in my life!” ‘Bleak ” the air is indeed
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4 Falcom Crag
DESCENT OF SKIDDAW. 137
“‘atop,’— exposed as the summit is to the sea-
winds. If the stranger desires to take a leisurely
view, he must trouble his guide or his pony with
a railway wrapper, or something of the sort, to
enable him to stand his ground. The descent may
be made, for the sake of variety, by a road through
Millbeck and the pretty village of Applethwaite ;
or by the west side of the mountain, and coming
out upon the road, just north of the village of
Bassenth waite. The descent is often made, if the
travellers are on foot, by Longside. This arm of
the mountain is one of its chief characteristics, as
seen from the top. The guides have given it the
name of Gibraltar, since they were told of its singu-
‘lar resemblance to that place. If a more northerly
descent is chosen, a small tarn comes into view, this
is Overwater.
PLT TOU ke
ASCENT OF SADDDLEBACK.
AN expedition to Saddleback affords a good oppor-
tunity of visiting the Druids’ Temple, a mile and a
half from Keswick. This very well-
preserved memorial of antiquity stands
in a field near the entrance of St. John’s Vale.
The stones, forty-eight in number, form an oval;
DRUIDS’ TEMPLE.
and there is a peculiarity in this case which dis- |
tinguishes it from all other Druidical monuments
extant in England. On the eastern side, within
the circle, there is a small recess formed by ten
stones, forming an oblong square. As Southey
observed, the spot is the most commanding that
could be chosen, short of a mountain-side; and it
is indeed nearly surrounded by mountains, which
it recognises in their true forms, from the levels,—
with the exception of the plain towards Penrith,
— being sunk out of view. The old legend about
the last human sacrifice of the Druids may belong
to any of the monuments of that age in the dis- ~
trict ; and it is probably claimed for them all. Ac-
cording to that old story ; when some people settled
in a clearing of the woods, beside a river, some-
where to the south of the district, the priests took |
up their station further north, among the moun-
tains, where there were plenty of stones fit and |
ee eee a en
&
x ee
ae eS
DRUIDICAL CIRCLES. 139
ready for their temple. After a time, a fever laid
waste the lower settlement; and the oracle de-
manded a sacrifice to appease the divine wrath.
The lot fell on a young girl who was betrothed ;
and, on an appointed day, she was conveyed, with
all the ceremonies, to the temple. A small hut of
wicker-work, like a large bee-hive, was found set
up on the western side of the temple. The girl
was led into the circle, and placed in the midst,
while the dedication proceeded. We are even told
that she was adorned with an oak garland, and
held mistletoe in her hand. The whole popula-
tion was looking on from a distance: but it must
have been within reasonable reach, as every one
was required to contribute a stick to the fire.
The wretched lover saw all from afar; and he
daringly resolved,—let the god be as wrathful as
he pleased,— not to contribute so much as a twig
to the burning of his beloved. She was seen to
enter the door, which was next the circle; and then
the priest closed it up, and heaped dry leaves and
sticks that were brought all round the hut. The
arch-druid meantime was procuring fire from two
pieces of wood. He succeeded, and set the pile
in a blaze. In this moment of desperation, the
the lover saw every mountain round give forth a
great cataract; and all the floods gushed to the
temple as to a centre, and made an island of the
little hut, — returning when they had extinguished
the fire. The victim came forth, with not a hair
singed, and not a leaf of her garland withered.
The arch-druid, skilled to interpret thunder, seems
to have understood in this case the voice of waters ;
for he announced that, henceforth, the god would
have no more human sacrifices.
140 DRUIDICAL CIRCLES.
Any resident who is sufficiently familiar with the a
country people to get them to speak their minds
fully, will find that they still hold to the notion
that nobody can count the Druid stones correctly ;
and also that a treasure is buried under the large
stone. As to the first,— there are in most such
circles, some smaller stones cropping out of the
ground which some visitors will, and others will
not, include among those of the circle. We our-
selves counted Long Meg and her daughters, near
Penrith, many times before making out the pre-
seribed sixty-seven, with any certainty. As for the
treasure, can any one prove that it is not there?
Nobody wants to undermine the stone, to get rid
of the tradition: so our neighbours are like the
Arabs at Petra, who have been shooting with sling,
bow, and matchlock, for a thousand years, at the
urn where they are sure Pharaoh’s treasure is,—
in its niche in the rock temple. For a thousand
years they have failed to bring it down, and are
determined that no European shall. And no Eu-
ropean would dismantle the temple to disabuse the
Arabs; and so the tradition and the urn stand
untouched. So may it be for ages to come with
Long Meg, and the giant of eight tons weight
that presides over the Keswick circle!
The ascent of Saddleback may begin behind
Threlkeld, up a path which the villagers will point
out: but an easier way is to diverge
from the main road some way farther
on, by the road to Hesket, near the village of
Scales. The hill-side path is to be taken which
leads along Souter Fell, by the side of the stream
which descends from Scales Tarn. This part is
SADDLEBACK,
SOUTER FELL SPECTRES, 14]
the very home of superstition and romance. This
Souter or Soutra Fell is the mountain on which
ghosts appeared in myriads, at inter-
scorers vals during ten years of the last cen-
tury ; presenting the same appearances
to twenty-six chosen witnesses and to all the
inhabitants of all the cottages within view of the
mountain; and for a space of two hours and a
half at one time — the spectral show being closed
by darkness! The mountain — be it remembered
—is full of precipices which defy all marching
of bodies of men; and the north and west sides
present a sheer perpendicular of 900 feet. On
Midsummer eve, 1735, a farm-servant of Mr. Lan-
caster’s, half a mile from the mountain, saw the
eastern side of its summit covered with troops,
which pursued their onward march for an hour.
They came, in distinct bodies, from an eminence,
on the north end, and disappeared in a niche in the
summit. When the poor fellow told his tale, he
was insulted on all hands; as original observers
usually are when they see anything wonderful.
Two years after,—also on a Midsummer eve, —
Mr. Lancaster saw some men there, apparently
following their horses, as if they had returned from
hunting. He thought nothing of this; but he
happened to look up again ten minutes after, and
saw the figures, now mounted, and followed by an
interminable array of troops, five abreast, marching
from the eminence and over the cleft as before.
All the family saw this, and the mancuvres of the
force, as each company was kept in order by a
mounted officer who gallopped this way and that.
As the shades of twilight came on, the discipline
142 SOUTER FELL SPECTRES.
appeared to relax, and the troops intermingled, and — ir
rode at unequal paces, till all was lost in darkness.
Now, of course all the Lancasters were insulted, as
their servant had been: but their justification was
not long delayed. On the Midsummer eve of the
fearful 1745, twenty-six persons, expressly sum-
moned by the family, saw all that had been seen _
before, and more. Carriages were now interspersed
with the troops; and everybody knew that no car- 4
riages ever had been, or could be, on the summit
of Souter Fell. The multitude was beyond imagi-
nation ; for the troops filled a space of half a mile,
and marched quickly till night hid them,— still
marching. There was nothing vaporous or indis- —
tinct about the appearance of these spectres. So
real did they seem, that some of the people went
up the next morning to look for the hoof-marks
of the horses ; and awful it was to them to find not
one footprint on heather or grass. The witnesses
attested the whole story on oath before a magis-
trate; and fearful were the expectatioas held by
the whole country side about the coming events of
the Scotch rebellion. It now came out that two
other persons had seen something of the sort in the
interval, viz., in 1743,— but had concealed it, to
escape the insults to which their neighbours were —
subjected. Mr. Wren, of Wilton Hall, and his > ‘
farm-servant, saw, one summer evening, a man and
a dog on the mountain, pursuing some horses along
a place so steep that a horse could hardly by any
possibility keep a footing on it. Their speéd was
prodigious, and their disappearance at the south
end of the fell so rapid, that Mr. Wren and the
servant went up the next morning, to find the
SCALES TARN. 143
body of the man who must have been killed. Of
man, horse, or dog, they found not a trace: and
they came down, and held their tongues. When
they did speak, they fared not much better for
having twenty-six sworn comrades in their dis-
grace. As for the explanation,— the Editor of the
“ Lonsdale Magazine” declared (Vol. ii. p. 318,)
that it was discovered that on that Midsummer eve
of 1745, the rebels were “ exercising on the western
~ eoast of Scotland, whose movements had been re-
flected by some transparent vapour, similar to the
Fata Morgana.” ‘This is not much in the way
of explanation: but it is, as far as we know, all
that can be had at present. These facts, however,
brought out a good many more; as the spectral
march of the same kind seen in Leicestershire, in
1707: and the tradition of the tramp of armies
over Helvellyn, on the eve of the battle of Marston.
Moor. And now the tourist may proceed,— look-
ing for ghosts, if he pleases, on Souter Fell.
Here, too, lies another wonder, — that tarn
(Scales Tarn) which is said to reflect the stars at
noonday, —a marvel which we by no
means undertake to avouch. The tarn
is situated at the foot of a vast precipice, and so
buried among crags, that the sun never reaches it,
except through a crevice in early morning. This
dark water is one of the attractions which bring
strangers to this mountain; though the easy
ascent of Skiddaw better suits the greater number.
Another attraction here is the deeper solitude of
the recesses of old Blencathra, — as Saddleback
should still be called. Another is the view of
Derwent Water from the summit. Southey says,
SCALES TARN.
144 SADDLEBACK.
“Derwent Water, as seen from the top of Saddle-
back, is one of the finest mountain scenes in the —
country.” That summit is called Linthwaite Fell; —
and there the guide will point out, better than we —
can do, the various objects, seas, islands, castles in
their woods, and cities of the plain; mountains, far _
and near; shores, like the boundaries of an estate,
and lakes like its fish-ponds. People who made the
ascent sixty years since have left a terrifying
account of its dangers, such as now excites a smile
among energetic tourists. One gentleman wasso ~
astonished,” near the outlet, “with the different _
appearance of objects in the valley beneath,” that
he chose to stay behind. Another of the four
presently “ wished to lose blood and return:” but —
he was coaxed onward to the tarn, where, however,
he could see no stars, though it was noonday. Mr.
Green, with his companion, Mr. Otley, was among
the early adventurers who stood on the highest
ridge. He was so accurate an observer that his
descriptions of unfrequented and unalterable places
will never be antiquated. ‘ From Linthwaite Pike,” _
he says, “on soft green turf, we descended steeply,
first southward, and then in an easterly direction
to the tarn,—a beautiful circular piece of trans-
parent water, with a well-defined shore. Here we
found ourselves engulphed in a basin of steeps,
having Tarn Crag on the north, the rocks falling
from Sharp Edge on the east, and on the west, the
soft turf on which we made our downward progress.
These side-grounds, in pleasant grassy banks, verge
to the stream issuing from the lake, whence there
is a charming opening to the town of Penrith;
and Cross Fell seen in the extreme distance. Wish-
SHARP EDGE. 145
ing to vary our line in returning to the place we
had left, we crossed the stream, and commenced a
steep ascent at the foot of Sharp Edge. We had
not gone far before we were aware that our journey
would be attended with perils; the passage gradu-
ally grew narrower, and the declivity on each hand
awfully precipitous. From walking erect, we were
reduced to the necessity either of bestriding the
ridge or of moving on one of its sides, with our
hands lying over the top, as a security against
tumbling into the tarn on the left, or into a fright-
ful gully on the right, — both of immense depth.
Sometimes we thought it prudent to return; but
that seemed unmanly, and we proceeded; thinking
with Shakspeare that ‘dangers retreat when boldly
they’re confronted” Mr. Otley was the leader,
who, on gaining steady footing, looked back on the
writer, whom he perceived viewing at leisure from
his saddle the remainder of his upward course.”
On better ground they had a retrospect on Sharp
Edge, — which is the narrowest ridge on Saddle-
back, or any other north-of-England mountain.
In places, its top is composed of loose stones and
earth; and, the stepping on the sides being as
faithless as the top, the Sharp Edge expedition
has less of safety in it than singularity. And now,
— those who, after this, like to go there, know
what to expect. ‘
The other mountain-lake, lying north-east of
this, and called Bowscale Tarn, is also reputed to
reflect the stars at noonday, but under
so many conditions, that it will bea
wonder if anybody ever has the luck to see them.
It is in this tarn that, in the belief of the country
K
BOWSCALE TARN.
146 BOWSCALE ARN.
people, there are two fish which cannot die; — the
same fish that used to wait on the pleasure of the
good Lord Clifford when, in his shepherd-days, he
learned mathematics from the stars upon the moun-
tain. The traveller can return either by the way
he came, or by Knott Crag, down upon Threlkeld ;
or, by following the course of the Glenderaterra,
along the skirts of Saddleback aud Skiddaw, —
coming out upon the Keswick road about a mile
from Threlkeld. This last mode of descent is con-
sidered by far the most interesting.
Whenever he passes that bit of road to Keswick,
he will be more and more struck with the advan-
tages of the situation of the mansion on Greta
Bank, with its airy position, its walks through the
woods, with the Greta dashing below; and afar,
the uninterrupted view of the whole of Derwent
Water basin and surrounding mountains. ‘The
tenth commandment is, we imagine, oftener broken
there than in most places,
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PART III.
———_—_
CIRCUIT OF THE LAKE DISTRICT.
rd
EERSt 10 Kk.
KESWICK BY PATTERDALE TO AMBLESIDE.
From Keswick to Threlkeld 4 miles
To Moor End ... Ah ihe cos 986 503 ac OMn es
», Gowbarrow Park ... bee aa Baa aie Ae th hs
», Patterdale ... aad bob as gan ste coo | Dogg
», High Hartsep 3 5,
7 0”
» Ambleside ... 580
Total 29 ,,
THERE is a circuit by which the chief objects of the
Lake District can be seen in four days, even by
ladies and elderly persons. We will
eeewcare describe this route, interpolating some
directions for stout pedestrians who can
undertake more than the majority of tourists.
The starting-point of this tour may be either
Keswick or Ambleside, according as the traveller
enters the district from the north or south. Sup-
posing it to be Keswick, the first day’s journey is
by Matterdale to Ullswater, and by Kirkstone
Pass to Ambleside.
The distance from Keswick to Patterdale is nine-
teen miles; and from Patterdale to Ambleside ten
K 2
148 GOWBARROW PARK.
more; so that the journey should begin in good
time, if the scenery is to be truly enjoy-
ed. The first part of the road, as far
as Threlkeld, (p. 108,) has been already described.
Tt then becomes wild and bleak, while commanding
noble distant views of the Keswick mountains, and
of the saddle-shaped aspect of Old Blencathra.
Mell Fell, the ugliest of hills, —like a tumulus
planted all over with larch, — grows larger as the
traveller proceeds, till he finds he is to make a
sharp turn to the right, and pass directly under it.
Judging from our own experience, we should say
that this part of the journey is always broiling hot
or bitterly cold. A bleak high-lying tract it cer-
tainly is, where the old monks no doubt suffered
much and often in their expeditions. Their pater-
nosters said among the perils of Ullswater, and
their Ave Marys here, are supposed to have given
the names of Patterdale and Matterdale, which
become more interesting as soon as their origin
is known. From Matterdale the road
Gown ow ~=6drops down upon Gowbarrow Park,
already described at p. 52. It isa
usual practice to send on the carriage to one of the
inns, (weather permitting) when the driyer will
order dinner to be ready in two hours or so: and
then the traveller will explore the park, and see
Ara Force, and walk the remaining three or four
miles,— enjoying as he goes, the very finest views
of Ullswater.
MATTERDALE,
The tour we are sketching supposes the party to be destined
for Ambleside; but as there is something to be seen in the other
direction, it may be well to notice it briefly. I'rom Gowbarrow
Park to Pooley Bridge, the road winds along the lake, the hills
SHAP ABBEY. 149
declining as the out-lying region is approached. Halsteads, the
family seat of the Marshalls, is the last stage commanding a
mountain-view. The hamlet of Watermillock is the chief’ settle-
ment passed on the way to the Water Foot. The Eamont is cros-
sed by a handsome bridge leading to the pleasant inn at Pooley
Bridge, a great resort of anglers. A good lake-view is obtained
from Ewesmere, near Pooley Bridge ; and the traveller may there
take his farewell of Martindale, Glenridding and Hallin Fell.
The hill of Dunmallet or Dunmallard is worth climbing for the
vestiges of a Roman fort which are visible at the top. As for the
fishing, there is no end of trout, a few char, and plenty of skelly,
the peculiarity of which may be best ascertained on the spot; and
in autumn abundance of eels are taken below the bridge. There
are no objects of particular interest between Pooley Bridge and
Penrith, but the roads which tend eastwards are all tempting.
One leads straight to Lowther Castle, and others enter the Park,
leading to the village of Clifton and Brougham Hall. Another,
to the south-east, leads to Hawes Water, and Mardale Green; and
the same road is pursued through Bamton to Shap Abbey and
the mysterious antiquity in its neighbourhood called Carl Lofts.
Small are the remains of both —one tower is almost the only
remnant of the once magnificent Shap Abbey, and the farmers
have made so free with the granite blocks which once marked the
area of Car] Lofts, that its boundary is difficult to trace. It was
once a strip of land half a mile long by about twenty-five yards
broad, described by huge granite blocks placed at intervals of
ten or twelve yards. ‘l'o the west of Pooley Bridge, the main
road leads to Keswick, and the greater part of it has just been
- described.
Reverting however to our day’s tour, an ordinary
party of travellers will be content with the road to
Ambleside, to close the labours of the
day. But young men will choose, if
there be daylight left, to diverge to the left to
Hartsop, to see Hays Water. The track passes
among the farms, and beside the beck, between the
mountains, and up till the source is reached, — the
secluded tarn called Hays Water. This little lake
is a mile and a half from the main road, and the
ascent is rather steep. It is the delight of the
Kee
HAYS WATER.
150 BROTHERS’ WATER.
angler, because it is the delight of the trout. It
is overhung by High Street; so that perhaps the
Roman Eagles, as well as the native birds of the
rocks, have cast their shadows upon its surface.
Not far off lies Angle Tarn, on the southern end of
Place Fell. Both these tarns send their brooks
down to swell the stream from Brothers’ Water,
which is itself supplied from the busy, noisy beck
that descends the Kirkstone Pass; and the whole,
united with a tributary from Deepdale, form the
clear brown stream which winds through Patterdale,
and empties itself into Ullswater. Bro-
BRormERs’ thers’ Water derives its name from the
accident — which is said to have hap-
pened twice — of brothers being lost in it, in the
attempt of one to save the other. On one of the
two occasions, the accident happened through the
breaking of the ice, when the brothers were making
a venturesome short cut across it to church. No
persuasion of ours can be necessary to induce any
traveller to visit Deepdale, if he has
time. Its aspect from the road is most
tempting ; only, it cannot, like the walk to Hays
Water, be accomplished in the longest summer-day,
in addition to the route given for the day. An
account of Ambleside will be found at p. 56.
DEEPDALE.
SECOND TOUR.
AMBLESIDE TO STRANDS AND WAST WATER.
From Ambleside to Coniston
To Broughton ... od
9» Ulpha Kirk .
» Stanley Ghyll
» Santon prides es 600
» strands one 500
wie
.
:
| pa anoe
Total
(ee)
bo
s
ANOTHER ROUTE.
From Ambleside to Skelwith Budge 80
To Colwith Bridge... neo A 6c 000
» Fell Foot, Langdale oe bc ;
AA ° Top of Wrynose 600 ano
» Cockley Beck 680 ae
» Bridge over the Esk eA 600 goa
» Stanley Ghyll 506 0 c00 oid
» Santon Bridge ee 200 090 tt
» Strands 206 eed odd do8 00
bol! polis bole
vip
.
s
Oe ed ee oe)
Total 22 33
THERE are two ways, meeting at Stanley Ghyll —
the grand waterfall of the distriet —which are about
equally beautiful, though entirely un-
tMetnanos, » Ke; but the shorter one, by Cockley
Beck, is fit only for good walkers, in
fair weather. There is no reason why ladies should
not achieve it by taking ponies, or a car, which
they will quit in the steeper parts. We will sup-
pose, in order to describe both, that the party
divides, —the young men going sixteen miles on
foot, by the mountains to Stanley Ghyll, and meet-
ing there the carriage-party, who have made a cir-
152 AMBLESIDE TO BROUGHTON.
cuit of about ten miles longer, and will take up the
pedestrians for the remaining six miles to Strands.
The drive to Coniston has been already described,
as far as the point at which it diverges from the
Brathay valley, (p. 72.) It then skirts
ON exon the grounds of Brathay Hall, and passes
near the lake at Pullwyke Bay. About
a mile further on Blelham Tarn comes into view on
the left, and at Hawkshead Old Hall, two miles fur-
ther, the traveller finds himself on familiar ground.
(See p. 38.) The road now to be foilowed passes
through Coniston and Torver, and thén diverges
from the lake, overlooking a region in which the
hills smk into heathery undulations, which again
subside into a wild alluvion which stretches to the
estuary. There is, as was before mentioned, now
a railway from Coniston to Broughton, but this
description is given as it originally stood for the
sake of what follows. The travellers must see
the Duddon, and in order to get to it they and
their carriage must go to Broughton. When
it is high water, the scene is fine: but the vast
reaches of sand at low water are dreary. The
coast-railway is seen crossing the estuary, — its
cobweb tracery showing well against the sand or
the water. Near at hand Broughton Tower rises
from the woods above the little town: but there
is nothing else to detain the eye. Tourists who
desire to ascend Black Combe, should
do it from hence, — the summit being
only six miles from Broughton; and guides are
here to be procured. Wordsworth says of this
mountain that “its base covers a much greater
extent of ground than any other mountain in those
BLACK COMBE.
UP THE DUDDON. 153
parts; and, from its situation, the summit com-
mands a more extensive view than any other point
in Britain.” One would think that this testimony,
and Col. Mudge’s information that, when residing
on Black Combe for surveying purposes, he more
than once saw Ireland before sunrise, would bring
strangers to try their luck in seeing Scotland, Staf-
fordshire, and Ireland from the same point: but
the mountain lies out of the ordinary track of
tourists, and very few visit it.
The next point of the drive is charming ;— up
the valley of the Duddon. The series of sonnets
that Wordsworth has given us may
have led strangers to expect too much:
but to an unprepossessed eye the valley must appear
lovely. Leaving the Bootle road and the bridge to
the left, the road ascends so steeply that the tra-
vellers will get out and walk; and many a time
will they turn to the sea-view, and the wooded
slopes on the way to Bootle, and the rocks, dressed
with wild flowers, that enclose the road. Then
comes a common covered with fern, in which the
greenest of paths form a network: and far below
dashes the brown river between rocky banks; and
Duddon Grove, with its conservatories and beautiful
grounds and green clearings, is seen in the hollow
of the vale. Four miles from Broughton, the bridge
at Ulpha Kirk spans the river, and discloses a beau-
tiful view, up and down. One thing which the
traveller is always expected to remark is the strange
holes (called pots) worn by the waters in the rocks,
and the rounding of the edges of the
boulders and shelves in the channel.
Ulpha Kirk is a mere hamlet ; but there is a little
THE DUDDON.
ULPHA KIRK.
154 | ULPHA KIRK.
inn at which the horses can rest if the party are
disposed for a walk to the scene of Robert Walker’s
life and labours. Ulpha Kirk itself is one of the
primitive places where the old manners of the
district may yet be traced more clearly than in
most road-side settlements. The people still think
it no sin to do their farm-work on Sundays, when
the weather, — so precarious here, —is favourable ;
and the familiar style of “the priest,’ in these
parts, makes the transition from work to worship
very natural. Some time since there was a blind
“priest” settled there. One Sunday morning, the
bell rang before the people were all ready; and
especially the stoutest farmer in the neighbourhood,
who, detained by some cow, pig, or sheep, entered
the church last of all, “ thunnerin’ down the aisle.”
“ Wha’s comin’ now?” asked the blind priest; and
being informed that it was John T , he inquired
further, “a-foot or a-horseback?” Odd sprink-
lings of learning are found in these by-places, as in
Scotland. Some students staying at this same
little inn, and wanting to settle their account,
wrote a note in Latin to the landlord, asking for
the bill, and sent it by the girl who waited. Mr.
Gunson, the landlord — from whom the present
landlord is descended — immediately sent in the
bill in Greek. It was too much for the students,
who were obliged to ask to have it in English.
There was a “heigh-larn’d” woman, not far from
hence, who married a farmer on the moor. When |
every body was lamenting the hard times, she
declared that, for her part, she would be contented
if she could obtain food and raiment; whereupon
her husband rebuked her presumption. ‘Thoo
ROBERT WALKER. 155
fule,” said he: “thoo dusn’t think thoo’s to hev
mare than other folk! Ise content wi’ meeat
and claes.”
Newfield Church, in Seathwaite, is the place
where Robert Walker, called “the wonderful,”
exercised his office for sixty years. The
grey farmsteads stand under their sy-
camores, dispersed in the vale, and up the slope
- which meets the Walna Scar track from Coniston.
Rocky and wooded knolls diversify the dale; and
the full beck runs down to join the Duddon, for
which it is often mistaken: but the Duddon is
unseen here, so deep lies its channel among the
rocks. The church is httle loftier or larger than
the houses near. But for the bell, the traveller
would hardly have noticed it for a church on ap-
proaching ; but when he has reached it, there is the
porch, and the little graveyard with a few tombs,
and the spreading yew, encircled by the seat of
stones and turf, where the early comers sit and rest
till the bell calls them in. A little dial, on a
whitened post in the middle of the enclosure, tells
the time to the neighbours who have no clocks.
Just outside the wall is a white cottage, so humble
that the stranger thinks it cannot be the parsonage:
yet the climbing roses and glittering evergreens, and
clear lattices, and pure uncracked walls, look as if
it might be. He walks slowly past the porch, and
sees some one who tells him that 1t is indeed Robert
Walker’s dwelling, and courteously
ROBERT WALKER. invites him in to see the scene of
those life-long charities. Here it was that the
distant parishioners were fed on Sundays with
broth, for which the whole week’s supply of meat
NEWFIELD.
156 ' ULPHA KIRK.
was freely bestowed. Hither it was that in winter
he sent the benumbed children, in companies, from
the schoo] in the church, to warm themselves at the
single household fire, while he sat by the altar all
the school-hours, keeping warmth in him by the
- exercise of the spinning wheel. But the story is
too well known, as it stands in Wordsworth’s
works, to need further celebration here: too well
known, we should think, not to induce tourists to
walk two miles from Ulpha Kirk and back again,
to visit the homes, in life and in death, of Robert
Walker. There are changes even here. There is
a school-house, warmer in winter than the church:
and there is a decline in the number of attendants
at church. The Wesleyan chapel at Ulpha has
drawn away some; and the taste for Sunday
diversion, which has found its way over the hills
from Coniston, estranges more; and the descendant
and successor of the good pastor says that “ the
old stocks are gone, and the new families are
different.”” Thus is the large world’s experience
reflected in this little vale !
Newfield is three miles from Ulpha Kirk. There
is a small and very old-fashioned inn, where every-
thing is clean and comfortable. This is a good
place to sleep, (if the traveller is fortunate enough
to find the rooms unoccupied,) when Walna Scar
is to be crossed.
The finest part of the Duddon Scenery is just
here; and it is a charming walk by the steppme-
stones, celebrated by Wordsworth, and
up and over the moor, to descend upon
Eskdale. The travelling party sees nearly the
same view, as far as the mountain is concerned, by
THE DUDDON.
BIRKER MOOR. 157
crossing at Ulpha Kirk, and getting upon the
moor that way. As soon as the enclosures are past,
up springs the lark, and freely run the rills, and
keen is the air; and ghost-like are the mountains
that appear by degrees above the high foreground
of the moor. It is a rare pleasure in the Lake Dis-
trict to meet with the lark. It is only on a very
wide expanse of moorland that it can happen; for
in the valleys the birds of prey allow no songsters.
The eagles are gone (or nearly), and a few ravens
are left among the crags; but there are hawks
domineering in every vale; so that those who
would hear the lark must go out to such places as
Birker Moor. The mountain-group in front is that
which has been remarked upon before as the centre
of the region; the lofty nucleus whence the vales
diverge (as Wordsworth observes, after Green)
“like the spokes of a wheel.” Scawfell is the
highest ; and the whole line, from that point to
Hardknot, is very fine in all lights. The dark
basin formed in the midst of the group will be
observed: there Wast Water lies.
On the right, a rude new road at length appears,
tending towards a wooded ravine. ‘That ravine is
Stanley Ghyll, and at its head is the
waterfall. The key may be had at the
farmhouse of Dalegarth; and there perhaps, or in
the glen, the party from Fell Foot may be found to
have arrived first.
The Stanley Ghyll fall has much the character of
Ara Force; and the immediate surroundings may
perhaps be rivalled by other waterfalls in the dis-
trict. But the gien itself is indisputably the finest
in the region; and it is scarcely possible to say too
STANLEY GHYLL,
158 STANLEY GHYLL.
much of the view from the moss-house on the steep,
which should certainly be the first point of view.
From hence the eye commands the whole ravine,
whose sides are feathered with wood from base to
ridge. The fall is between two crags, — the one
bare, the other crowned with pines; and if there is
a slant of sunlight between them, it gives the last
finish of beauty to the chasm. The most modern
element in the scene, the young larches, cannot
offend the eye, —so well is their vivid green inter-
mingled with the well-grown beech, oak, birch, and
hollies, of a sober hue. There is a bridge below,
descried from the moss-house, which will tempt the
stranger to find his way down; and there he will
meet with two more, by means of which he will
reach the fall. Here, among a wilderness of ferns
and wild flowers, he may sit in the cool damp
abyss, watching the fall of waters into their clear
rock-basin, till his ear is satisfied with their dash
and their flow, and his eye with the everlasting
quiver of the ash sprays, and swaying of the young
birches, which hang over from the ledges of the
precipice. A path then leads him under the rocks,
now on this side of the stream, and now on that,
till he emerges from the ravine, and winds his
way through the hazel copse to the gate.
It may be thought that our travellers have not
leisure for much meditating in the glen: and it is
true that by this time, the sun is sloping westwards ;
but there are only six miles to be travelled; and
there are no more rough mountain-tracks to-day,
but a good road — wonderfully red ! — across Esk-
dale, and all the way to Strands.
After crossing the Esk, and passing the little
ESKDALE TO WAST WATER, 159
inn at Bout, the road runs above the river, till at
the King of Prussia Inn, it turns up
out of Eskdale, and crosses into Miter.
dale. Before Eskdale is lost sight of, the opening
of the valley to the sea affords a fine view, with the
little town of Ravenglass seated in the bay where
the Irt, the Mite, and the Esk flow into the sea.
Then comes a long ascent, and more views of the
levels towards the coast,—rich with woods and
fields, bounded by sands and sea. Then there is
a descent to cross the Mite; and another ascent ;
and a descent again to pretty Santon Bridge on
the winding Irt. Instead of passing the bridge,
however, the road to the right must be taken,
which leads in two miles to Strands. ‘There is
again a long ascent: but even the tired traveller
will not complain of it, when the circle of moun-
tains round Wast Water opens before him. The
lake is not visible; but there is no mistaking where
it lies. 'To the right, and close at hand, the Screes
present their remarkable sweep of débris, and crests
streaked with red, grey and vivid green,
and here and there cloven for the pas-
sage of cataracts from the brow, which tumble down
through the gloom of woods. Hawl Ghyll is the
largest of these ravines. Next, the Scawfell peaks
rise above the rest; and Great End
just. peeps over the shoulder of Ling-
mell. The cleft between Lingmell and Great Gable
is Sty Head Pass; and to the left, from Great Gable
are Yewbarrow and Middlefell. ‘The broken fore-
ground on the common whence this view is seen,
adds greatly to its beauty. Descending upon Wast-
dale, the Irt is crossed; and then the road meets
ESKDALE,
WAST WATER.
MOUNTAINS.
160 FROM BOUT TO WASTDALE HEAD.
others on the green. The one to the right leads
to the lake. Sweeping round to the left, and pas-
sing the church, —so small and domestic-looking
as to appear like a house, —the road reaches the
two little inns. They are humble but clean; and
horses can be had, and boats for the lake.
There is a beautiful walk of six miles across the fells from Bout
to Wastdale Head. The track passes Burnmoor Tarn. The stream
from the tarn finds its course down to Bout, so the traveller might
be guided by it, but he will save himself much distance and a
good deal of bog, if he can find the landmarks which serve as
guides to the country people. He crosses the stream at a pictur-
esque watermill soon after leaving Bout, and follows the path
through one or two gates. When he finds himself on the fells, he’
must look out for an old thorn tree. There are three, and he
must pass them all, leaving them on his right hand. After he has
left the third behind he will, by continuing to walk in the same
direction, soon come in sight of the tarn. It would be well if
some more lasting landmarks were substituted for these old trees,
two of which are already dead, and the third does not look as if
it would long survive its fellows. The chief interest of this walk
is in the latter portion. The road crosses the stream as it issues
from the tarn, on the eastern side, and then the way lies between
Scawfell and the Screes. Wastdale Head and Wast Water come
into sight during the descent, which is made by a well marked
path, used by peat-cutters whose huts are passed by the roadside.
Now we must see how the party by Fell Foot
has fared.
Their route has been described as far as Skelwith
Bridge (p. 47) ; —viz., the road by Clappersgate,
and the Brathay valley, in which, how-
seen. ever, they must keep the right-hand
road. Passing Skelwith Bridge, they
had better, if on foot, go through the gap in the
wall mentioned in p. 74, and follow the path in
the wood which leads them out into the road at
the top of the hill. About a mile from thence,
they must take the road to the right, which turns
)
FROM LANGDALE UP WRYNOSE. 161
sharp down the very steep hill to Colwith Bridge.
Colwith Force, a little further on, will make itself
heard and seen. It tumbles from a height of
seventy feet, and the adjuncts are beautiful. One
mile further along the winding road or lane, Lang-
dale Tarn comes into view, with Wetherlam swel-
ling up grandly to the south of it. About a mile
further on, there is a gate from which the road
parts; —the straight-forward one leading on to
Blea Tarn and Langdale; and the left hand one,
which our travellers must follow, leading to Fell
Foot, and the old road from Kendal to White-
haven, which was the only route before carriers’
carts found their way into the region.
my =0°™ Fell Foot was the house of entertain-
ment whence the pack-horse cavalcade began the
ascent, or where they stopped to congratulate them-
selves on having accomplished the descent. The
ascent of Wrynose from this point is long and
rather steep: but the views behind become grander
with every step. The travellers are now in West-
; morland ; but at the Three Shire Stones
enim Stones: at the top, where three counties meet,
they will step into Lancashire, in order to leave it
for Cumberland at Cockley Beck bridge, within
three miles further on. We are glad that a spirited
citizen of Ambleside, to whom his neighbours are
under great obligations, has erected a stone pillar
at the spot where the shire stones are, that the
junction of counties may not be overlooked —as it
easily might be before—by the unobservant tra-
veller. Young tourists, who happen to have long
limbs, may enjoy the privilege of being in three
counties at once, by setting their feet on two of
L
162 ADVENTURE ON ESK HAUSE.
the three stones, and resting their hands on the
third. The stream which is now on the right,
divides Lancashire from Cumberland; and West-
morland is left behind.
We know nothing wilder in the district than the
next two miles. These are the desolate hills in
which the Duddon and the Esk take
ou = their rise; and Cockley Beck is the
spot where the Duddon must be left, to cross over
to the Esk. There is a farmhouse near the bridge,
where horses can be refreshed when a car comes
this way, while travellers sit down by the stream to
dinner. A melancholy and harassed traveller once
took this way, whose adventure is still talked over
in Eskdale and Borrowdale. A party of tourists,
among whom were two sisters, were on the heights,
intending to cross Esk Hause into Borrowdale, and
to spend the night at Seathwaite, — the first settle-
ment there. Now there is, as we have seen, another
Seathwaite on the Duddon ; and mistakes frequently
arise between them. On Esk Hause, one of the
ladies lost sight of her party behind some of the
rocks scattered among the tarns there, and took a
turn to the right instead of the left. A shepherd
of whom she inquired her way to Seathwaite
pointed down the Duddon valley; and that way
she went till she found herself at Cockley Beck,
when the old shepherd-farmer who lived there was
getting his supper in the dusk of the autumn
evening. He used his best courtesy to induce her
to stay till daylight: but she was bent on going at
once, —so great would be her sister’s terror. As
she would not be pursuaded, the old man went with
her, putting his crust into his pocket. It was dark,
OVER HARDKNOT. Pe163
and the lady was weary; and she was not aware
what she was undertaking. After a long struggle,
she fainted. The old man was afraid to leave her,
lest he should not find her again: but he succeeded
in reaching water without losing sight of her white
dress. He dipped his crust and brought water in
his hat to bathe her face. She revived, ate the
crust, and strove onwards, — persevering on her
weary way till between one and two in the morning,
when she met her sister and a party coming from
Seathwaite in Borrowdale, with a dozen lanterns, to
search for her. She gave her guide “a one pound
note” (it was so long ago as that) ; and afterwards
sent him two more. The whole family connexion
of that lady will remember for ever that there is a
Seathwaite on each side of Esk Hause.
From Cockley Beck, the road climbs the side of
Hardknot, and from the highest point commands a
view of the sea. The descent into
Eskdale is charming, —the ravine to
the left, in which the infant river flows down, being
beautifully wooded, and the whole valley, with its
few hamlets and many sheep, lying open as far as
the sea. In three miles from Cockley Beck, the
bridge over the Esk is passed; and Stanley Ghyll
is less than three miles further. Scawfell, and all
that group of summits, are in view to the right,
during the descent: and to the left, Birker Force
is seen dashing over the rocks. Bout comes next,
and then Dalegarth and Stanley Ghyll, where our
travellers will join their party, after a walk of six-
teen miles from Ambleside.
HARDKNOT,
1
THIRD TOUR.
FROM STRANDS AND WAST WATER TO SCALE HILL INN.
From Strands to Gosforth ... aes dea wa .. 98 miles.
To Calder Bridge ae fo wee nee ae eens Als eas
» Ennerdale Bridge ... me Bon ce boos YE ser
» Lamplugh Cross... Bho” Mee
3, Lowes Water ee
» scale Hill... Zee
Total 23 ,,
THE objection to seeing Wast Water early in the
morning is, that Scawfell may too probably be
covered with clouds. He does not take
off his nightcap so soon as the pleasure- .
seeker. On this account, we have preferred, when
weather was favourable, the Fell Foot way to
Strands, as leaving time for an evening-drive to
Wastdale Head, — five miles and back again. The
travellers by Broughton must no doubt wait till the
morning. ‘Taking a cup of tea and a crust, and
ordering breakfast for two hours hence, the party
may start early for the far-famed Wast Water, —
the most solemn and imposing of all the lakes. For
some way the road is a pretty lane, with frequent
gates till the beautiful abode of Crook End, the
seat of Stanfield Rawson, Esq., is passed. Hawl
Ghyll and the other fissures are probably breathing
forth their vapours, which keep ascending all the
way. There are The Screes, with the grey and still
lake, — too deep to be ever frozen, — lying at the
WAST WATER.
i
AN
mM (Wi
TAN
w
WASTDALE HEAD. 165
base of their prodigious sweep! The lake is three
and a half miles long, and has The Screes for its
south-eastern shore. The line of this singular
range is almost unbroken. The crags are hidden,
about a third of the way down, by the slope of the
many-coloured désris which slants right into the
lake. The summer-thunderstorm and the winter-
tempest sometimes shiver the loosely-compacted
crags above; and then, when a mass comes thun-
dering down, and splashes into the lake, the whole
range feels the shock, and slides of stones rush into
the water; and clouds of dust rise into the air.*
* This account of some fine features of Wastdale. Head is com-
municated. — “ At Wastdale Head there are two water-courses as
well worth seeing as any in the district: the one, Pease Ghyll, a
very long and deep ravine under Great End in Scawfell; and the
other Greta Force, a lofty waterfall. This latter is formed of
two sister falls, each, considerably higher, and having a much
larger body of water in it, than Scale Force: but not perhaps
falling quite so sheer. A narrow tongue of land divides their
leaps; but the two streams meet together in the chasm below,
which would itself be considered fine were not Pease Ghyll so
near a neighbour. There is no unfortunate woman to be satisfied
with a shilling here,— no steps cut out in the rock,— no little
gateway closed to the guideless adventurer. On the other hand
it is proper to state that two streams have to be crossed before a
good view of Greta Forces can be obtained; ladies therefore
should choose dry weather, when the passage is easy enough, for
this expedition. Starting from Ritson’s, we take the o/d road
towards Sty Head down in the valley; cross the stream where it
is most convenient, and steer for the junction of Pease Ghyll and
Greta Force. We cross here to the left bank of the latter, and
ascending it to the point opposite the foot of the tongue, get on
to the same, not without a little difficulty, and are rewarded not
only with a good view of the falls (which indeed can be seen even
better from below) but with a fine sight of all the Wastdale
amphitheatre. Descending to the junction of the streams where —
we crossed before, if it be tolerably dry weather, we clamber up
the bed of Pease Ghyll, hemmed in by the grandest natural walls
on either side, and by the ane precipices of Scawfell imme-
L
166 WASTDALE HEAD.
We gave, in approaching Strands, (p. 159.) the
names of the mountains as they are now seen. The
road winds pleasantly round bays and
over promontories, and the pyramidal
Yewbarrow, Great Gable, which closes in the dale,
and Lingmell and the Scawfell Pikes to the right,
all explain themselves. Several brooks and rills
are passed, flowing down from the valleys ; and the
stranger exclaims that he should like to spend a
whole summer here, to explore all the ways among
the mountains. Several gentlemen have spent
weeks together at Ritson’s farmhouse, at the dale
head, where there are clean beds, and farmhouse
fare in plenty and perfection. There is now a little
inn at Wastdale Head, kept by one of the Ritson’s,
the other having still accommodation for private
lodgers. The opening out of the dale head, when
the valley has appeared to close in round the lake,
is as wonderful a spectacle to strangers as anything
they see. The dale is one of those perfect levels,
shut in by lake and mountains, which give a dif-
ferent impression from any other kind of scenery
in the world. The passes themselves are so high
as to leave no appearance of outlet, except by the
lake; and of these passes there are but two,— the
Sty Head and Mosedale paths. The green and
WASTDALE HEAD,
diately in front: behind, Great Gable closes the scene with its
stupendous pyramid. This is by far the finest ravine in the Lake
Country for real grandeur: the few mountain-ashes and hardy
trees which fringe the rocks, only serving by contrast to heighten
the prevailing ruggedness. An enormous rock forming a natural
archway through which the stream runs so as to make farther
research impossible, concludes our navigation. A more extended
view still may be obtained by ascending the right bank of Pease
Ghyll and going as far as eyes unaccustomed to precipices will
permit us.”
"EDUCATION IN THE DALES. 167
perfect level, to which the mountains come down
with a sheer sweep, is partly divided off into fields;
and a few farmhouses are set down among the
fields, on the bends of the gushing and gurgling
stream. There is a chapel, — the humblest of cha-
pels,— with eight pews, and three windows in three
sides, and a skylight over the pulpit. There is
also a school. The schoolmaster is entertained on
“whittlegate” terms; that is, he boards at the
farmhouses in turn. An old man told us that the
plan answers. “He gets them on very well,” said
he; “and particularly in the spelling. He thinks
if they can spell, they can do all the rest.” Such
are the original conclusions arrived at in Wastdale
Head. It struck us that the children were dirtier
than even in other vales, though the houses are so
clean that you might eat your dinner off the board
or the floor. But the state of the children’s skin
and hair is owing to superstition in all these dales;
and .the schoolmaster is the one who should cure
the evil. A young lady who kindly undertook to
wash and dress the infant of a sick woman, but
who was not experienced in the process, exclaimed
at the end, ‘‘O dear! I forgot its hands and arms.
I must wash them.” ‘The mother expressed great
horror, and said that “if the child’s arms were
washed before it was six months old, it would be a
thief; ? and, added she, pathetically, “I would not
like that.”? The hair and nails must not be cut for
a much longer time, for fear of a like result. The
Yorkshire people put the alternative of dirty and
elean rather strongly in their proverb, “ Better hev
a bairn wi a mucky feace than wash its noase off :’
but the Cumberland folk view the matter more in
168 WASTDALE TO CALDER ABBEY.
a moral way, and refuse to have their children
baptised into thievery.
__ Kirkfell, which stands backward, between Yew-
barrow and Great Gable, was very tempting to a
tourist who “explored this neighbour-
hood some years ago; and he set out
to get to Buttermere by Blacksail and Scarf Gap.
After hours of walking, he struck into the deep
ravine between Kirkfell and Great Gable; and
when he arrived within sight of a lake at night, he
was confounded to find it still Wast Water. He
had walked completely round the mountain, instead
of getting on! We observed to a comrade that this
could not have happened if the tourist had carried
a pocket-compass. “And not having a compass,”
said our friend, ‘he fetched one.” Wastdale Head
is the place whence the ascent of Scawfell should be
made: but we must defer that, as it would occupy
the energies of a whole day. The party will now
return the way they came; for there is no road, of
course, under the Screes, though the shepherds
venture along a perilous thread of a path in the
loose débris.
_ After breakfast the travellers will Address them-
selves to the very different spectacle of Calder
Abbey and its environs.
After climbing the long hill from Strands, an
eager look-out will be kept for the Isle of Man:
-but the most probable point for seeing
CmANDS Sev, 1b is at the top of the hill between
Gosforth (the reddest of villages) and
Calder Bridge. Far off at sea rises the outline of
its mountains ; and when the wind is east, we have
repeatedly seen the shadows filling the hollows of
KIRKFELL,
CALDER ABBEY. 169
its hills. From this eminence, the road descends
through an avenue of beech, ash, and other trees,
to Calder Bridge.
Here the travellers will leave the carriage, which
will meet them within an hour at Captain Irwin’s
gate, on their quitting the Abbey. They must
now step into the inn garden at the bridge, and
see how beautifully the brown waters swirl away
under the red bridge and its ivied banks, while the
waving ferns incessantly checker the sunshine. It
is a mile to the Abbey, through the churchyard,
and along the bank of the Calder, where again the
most beautiful tricks of light are seen, with brown
water and its white foam, red precipitous banks,
and the greenest vegetation, with a wood crowning
all. The scene is thoroughly monastic. There is
no sound at noon-day besides the gushing water,
but the woodman’s axe and the shock of a falling
tree, or the whir of the*magpie, or the pipe of the
thrush: but at might the rooks, on their return to
roost, fill the air with their din. The ruins are
presently seen, springing sheer from the greenest
turf. Relics from the abbey are now placed beside
the way; and the modern house appears at hand.
The ruins should be approached from
may axEXY the front, so that the lofty pointed
arches may best disclose the long perspective be-
hind of grassy lawn and sombre woods. The
Abbey is built of red sandstone of the neighbour-
hood, now sobered down by time (it was founded
in A.D., 1134,) into the richest and softest tint
that the eye could desire. But little is known of
it beyond its date, and the name of its founder,
Ranulph, son of the first Ranulph de Meschines,
170 CALDER ABBEY.
a Norman noble. The church was small, as the
scanty remains show; and the monastery, which
now looks like a continuation of the same building,
could not have contained a numerous company.
From the fragments of effigies preserved, it appears
that some eminent persons were buried here; but
who these knights and nobles were there is no
record that can tell,— carefully as these memorials
were wrought to secure the immortality of this
world. The eye is first fixed by the remains of
the tower, from whose roofless summit dangles the
the tufted ivy, and whose base is embossed by the
small lilac blossoms of the antirrhinum ; but at last
the great charm is found in an aisle of clustered
pillars. Almost the whole aisle is standing, still
connected by the cornice and wall which supported
the roof. The honeysuckle and ivy climb till they
fall over on the other side. There is a sombre
corner where the great ash grows over towards the
tower, making a sort of tent in the recess. There
are niches and damp cells in the conventual range.
It is a small ruin, but thoroughly beautiful: and
when the stranger looks and listens, as he stands
in the green level between woods, he will feel how
well the monks knew how to choose their dwelling-
places, and what it must have been to the earnest
and pious among these Cistercians to pace the
river bank, and to attune their thoughts to the
unceasing music of the Calder flowing by. In the
broad noon it is a fine thing to see the shadows
flung, short and sharp, on the sward, and to catch
the burnish of the ivy, and woo the shade of the
avenue: and, in the evening, it is charming to see
how the last glow in the west brings out the pro-
OVER COLD FELL. 171
jections and recesses of the ruins, and how the
golden moon hangs over the eastern mass of tree
tops, ready to take her turn in disclosing the
beauties of the monastic retreat.
The, Abbey is carefully preserved, and liberally
laid open to strangers by Captain Irwin. It is no
fault of his that his house, a plain substantial
modern dwelling, stands too near the ruins. He
did not build it: so there is nothing personal in
the natural wish of strangers that it stood some-
where else.
At the gate the carriage is waiting, and it takes
the cross road, almost opposite the gate, up to Cold
Fell. The drive over that fell is com-
monly called dreary ; and it is so in
bad weather: but it has its charms. The sea-view
is fine, —all flecked with cloud-shadows as with
islands: and so too is the wide down sprinkled
with sheep, that look as ragged as terriers, after
tearing their fleeces with the furze and brambles
with which the swelling slopes are embossed. In a
hollow, at rare intervals, stands a farmhouse under
the ordinary sycamore canopy; and far away, be-
tween the slopes of the down below, the soil is cut
up into fields, with woods hanging above. At the
mouth of the vale, between it and the coast, stands
Egremont, a little town of 1,500 inhabitants or so,
and which certainly looks very pretty from the
uplands ; — and cheerful too, in spite of its Roman
name, — (“the Mount of Sorrow.”) It is distin-
guished by Roman traditions. It was at the gate-
way of Egremont Castle that the horn was hung,
in crusading days, which was twice blown by the
gallant Sir Eustace de Lacy. As the Cumber-
COLD FELL,
172 TRADITION OF EGREMONT.
landers tell, Sir Eustace and his brother Hubert
rode forth together to the Holy Wars; and Sir
Eustace blew the horn, saying to his brother, “If
I fall in Palestine, do thou return and blow this
horn, and take possession ; that Herma not
be without a Lacy for its Lord.” In- alestine,
ambition of this lordship so took possession of —
Hubert, that he hired ruffians to drown his brother ~
in the Jordan: and the ruffians assured him that —
the deed was done. He returned home, and stole
into the castle by night, — not daring to sound the
horn. But he soon plucked up spirit, and drowned
his remorse in revels. In the midst of a banquet
one day, the horn was heard, sounding such a blast
that the echoes came back from the fells, after
startling the red deer from his covert, and the wild
boar from his drinking at the tarn. Hubert knew
that none but Eustace could or would sound the
horn: and he fled by a postern while his brother
Kustace entered by the gate. Long after, the
wretched Hubert came to ask forgiveness from his
brother; and having obtained it, retired to a con-
vent, where he practised penance till he died. The
ruins of this castle stand on an eminence to the
west of the town.
Before descending to Ennerdale Bridge, the out-
line of the Scotch mountains may be sometimes
seen. Few travellers see more of this
lake than in passing; but it deserves
more attention than is generally bestowed upon it.
The lake is exceedingly wild, though it has not the
solemnity of Wast Water. The enclosure of the
waters by bare mountains is very fine. The lake
is two and a half miles in length and half a mile
ENNERDALE,
ENNERDALE WATER. iio
broad. It has a curious little island, composed
entirely of stones, so much alike in size and shape
as to lead to the inquiry whether they can have
been brought there for building purposes. One
glance down into the clear water, where they may
be seen to a great depth, will show that such is not
the case, there being too vast a quantity to admit of
the supposition. The southern side of the lake is
closed in by Crag Fell, Revelin and Iron Crag..
As seen from the water, Crag Fell has the appear-
ance of being crowned with a fort. Herdhouse and
Red Pike form the northern boundary. The lake
has its traditions, as well as several wild tales of
the adventures and escapes of pedestrians who have
explored the mountains in its neighbourhood. It is
said that a gentleman once lived at How Hall, a
house not far from the inn, who dealt in the black
art; and some of his doings are still related. On
one occasion he was with a party of friends in a
boat on the lake, when, remarking that it was time
for him to leave them, de plunged headlong into
the water. The friends waited and searched for
him in vain, and at length returned home believing
him to be drowned, when to their amazement they
found him sitting dry and snug by his own fireside.
The Anglers’ Inn, at Ennerdale, is as clean and
comfortable as it is homely.
The valley at the head of Ennerdale is little
visited. It is crossed by pedestrians who go from
Wastdale Head to Buttermere by Blacksail and
Scarf Gap; and tourists who approach Ennerdale
by the carriage road see nothing of it. It is full
of wild beauty, and deserves to be better known.
Its length is about four miles. In walking up it
VAC ENNERDALE.
the traveller has on his left Red Pike, High Stile,
and High Crag, and on his right Pillar and Kirk
Fell, while in front the valley is closed in by Great
Gable. The river that dashes down the centre is
the Liza. The most interesting feature in the
landscape is the Pillar Rock, so like a gigantic
column as to have given its name to the mountain
of which it forms a part. ‘This rock used to be
believed inaccessible, but there have been adven-
turous tourists on the top of it. Their names are
preserved in a bottle which is left in some crevice
on its summit. Last summer this bottle contained
nine names. The ascent is looked upon as foolhardy
by some of the most experienced guides of the
district.
_ There are mountain roads from Ennerdale to
Lowes Water, over Blake Fell, and by Floutern
Tarn to Scale Force and Buttermere. The distance
to each is six miles. The Blake Fell road, presently
to be described, parts off from the other in a north-
erly direction just before Kloutern Tarn is reached.
The road to Buttermere is not well marked between
the tarn and Scale Force, as the ground is boggy.
The tarn must be passed on the right, and then the
general direction is easterly. There are three sheep-
folds which must be passed; and if the day is clear
the traveller may guide himself in his descent by
keeping in a line with the Vale of Newlands, the
top of which is distinctly visible.
We have mentioned the young man who spent
the whole of a precious day in walking round Kirk
Fell. Worse happened, in October, 1852, to two
gentlemen who went with a pony, but without a
guide, from Buttermere to Wastdale Head, by Scarf
SCARF GAP AND BLACKSAIL. 175
Gap and Blacksail. In Ennerdale valley, wind
and rain met them. They struggled
rovarsts, part of the way along Blacksail, when
they became bewildered, and soon so
exhausted that they had a narrow escape with
their lives. But for a brandy-flask, which one of
them carried, they could not have survived. The
pony seems to have sunk as rapidly as the men.
These gentlemen have publicly suggested the erec-
tion of some conspicuous landmarks, to show the
track; and they have uttered their warning, in
corroboration of so many others, against crossing
mountains without a guide. One of their chief
difficulties was the paths being turned into water-
courses, and thereby disguised. It was on the
same track that the three Kendal young ladies,
mentioned by Mr. Green in his “Guide” (two of
whom are still living) lost their way, from dismis-
sing their guide too soon, and actually stayed all
night on the mountain, where if it had not been
fine summer weather, they would have perished.
They took a guide over Scarf Gap, and as far as
the junction of the three roads from Buttermere,
Ennerdale, and Wastdale. The guide left them on
the right road, and with full information as to the
rest of the way: they took the wrong side of the
brook, however, and so got bewildered. It was
only 4 p.m., when the guide left them : but darkness
overtook them still wandering. When they came
down again upon Tyson’s house, early in the morn-
ing, the family could not believe the story of their
descent, so perilous was the way they had come.
One of the ladies had, however, lost a pocket-book,
and they had seen a dead sheep: and, somebody
=
176 ADVENTURE ON BLAKE FELL.
immediately going up, these incidents were verified :
and the adventure of the Kendal ladies remains one
of the wonders of the dales.
We once had an adventure in this neighbour-
hood, the moral of which is, the comfort of having
a guide. We wanted to cross Blake
mee *"" Fell to Lowes Water. The distance
to Scale Hill Inn was only six miles; the time
summer ; and the track well marked on map and
mountain. If there ever was a case in which a
guide might be thought unnecessary, it was this:
but two of the party were young strangers, and
the third would not assume the charge of them.
The heat was excessive that day; so we lagged
behind the guide, on the ascent, though he carried
knapsack and baskets. He was a quiet-looking
elderly mountaineer, who appeared to walk slowly ;
but his progress was great compared with ours,
from the uniformity and continuity of his pace.
In the worst part of the walk, we tried the effect
of following close behind him, and putting our feet
in his tracks; and we were surprised to find with
what ease we got on. At first we stopped re-
peatedly, to sit down and drink from the streams
that crossed the track or flowed beside it; and
during those halts we observed that the blackness
which had for some time been appearing in the
west, now completely shrouded the sea. Next, we
remarked .that while the wind still blew in our
faces,— that is from the north-east,— the mass of
western clouds was evidently climbing the sky.
The guide quietly observed that there would be rain
by and by. Next, when we were in the middle of
the wide fell, and we saw how puzzling the network
STORM ON THE FELL. 177
of swampy paths must be at all times, we pointed
out to one another how the light fleeces of cloud
below the black mass swept round in a circle, fol-
lowing each other like straws in an eddy. Soon,
the dark mass came driving up at such
RE 6a Yate that it was clear we should not
‘ finish our walk in good weather. The
dense mist was presently upon us. On looking
behind, to watch its rate of advance, we saw a few
flashes of lightning burst from it. The thunder
had for some time been growling afar, almost: in-
cessantly. The moment before the explosion of the
storm was as like a dream as a waking state can be.
We were walking on wild ground, now ascending,
now descending; a deep tarn (Floutern Tarn) on
our right hand, our feet treading on slippery rushes
or still more slippery grass; the air was dark as
during an eclipse; and heavy mists drove past from
behind, just. at the level of our heads, and sinking
every moment; while before us, and far below
us —down as in a different world —lay Butter-
mere, and the neighbouring vales, sleeping in the
calmest sunshine. The contrast was singular — of
that warm picture, with its yellow lights and soft
shadows, with the turbulence and chill and gloom
of the station from which we viewed it. We had
but a moment to look at it; for not only did the
clouds sink before our:eyes, but the wind scudded
round to the opposite point of the compass, throw-
ing one after another of us flat asit passed. Within
a few minutes one of us had six falls, from the force
of the wind and the treachery of the ground,—now
in a trice a medley of small streams. It was im-
possible to stop the guide for a moment’s breath.
M
178 STORM ON THE FELL.
In the roar of the blast, and crash of the thunder,
and pelt of the hail, one might as well have spoken
to the elements: so it was necessary for us all to
keep our pace, that he might not stride away from
us entirely. Through stumblings and slidings in-
numerable, we did “this, — the lightning playing
about our faces the while, like a will-o’-the-wisp
on the face of a bog. The hail and rain had
drenched us to the skin; they were driven in at —
every opening of our clothes; they cut our necks
behind, and filled our shoes; our hats and bonnets
were immediately soaked through, and every-
body’s hair wringing wet. The thunder seemed
to roll on our very skulls. In this weather we
went plunging on for four miles, through spongy
bogs, and turbid streams whose ‘bridges of stones
were hidden in the rushing waters, or by narrow
pathways each one of which was: converted by
the storm into an impetuous brook. When we
had descended into a region where we could hear
ourselves speak, we congratulated one another on
our prudence in having engaged a guide. Without
him, how should we have known the path from the
brook, or have guessed where we might ford the
stream, when the bridges were out of sight? Two
horses, we afterwards heard, were killed on the
same fell in that storm: and we should never have
come down, we were persuaded, if we had been left
to wander by ourselves.
Lamplugh Cross is three miles from Ennerdale
Bridge; and thence the road begins to descend, and
for the most part continues descending
ue © for the remaining six miles to Scale
Hill Inn. On leaving the common,
from which the Solway and Scotch mountains are
j
'
LOWES WATER. 179
visible, and turning down through a gate upon
Lowes Water, the view of the central mountain-
group is again very fine. Lowes Water
is one of the out-lying lakes, and its
lower end is tame accordingly : but it is only a mile
long, and the peaks congregate finely about its
head. ‘The circuit of Lowes Water, (seven miles)
is a charming morning’s wal. There is a pros-
perous look about the homesteads there, and a rich-
ness about the meadows which smacks of the level
country, which, in the shape of the Vale of Lorton,
is near at hand. On the road between Lowes
Water and the inn at Scale Hill, the great peaks
of the central group are all visible, from Grassmoor
to Great Gable, and from Scawfell round to Mel-
break ; while the prominent Rannerdale Knot pro-
jects into Crummock Lake in front; and Honister
Crag peeps over from behind. As the reader
knows, the whole group may be studied from Scale
Hill; and to the utmost advantage from the Sta-
tion. (p. 128.) At Scale Hill Inn the travellers
may close in comfort the third day of their circuit.
LOWES WATER.
mM 2
FOURTH TOUR:
FROM SCALE HILL, BY HONISTER CRAG, TO KESWICK.
From Scale Hill to Buttermere 4 miles
To Gatesgarth ... re nee Pe ops
» Honister Crag 2 aes
», seatoller ees
> Rosthwaite ... ieee
», Lodore B00 aes 3- 5
» Keswick BE ote
Total 18 ,,
Tuer road as far as Buttermere has been described
(p. 127.) But the attention of the traveller has
hardly been sufficiently called to the
orvumock stormy character of this central dis-
trict, as shown by the aspect of the
mountains. Nowhere else are they so scarred with
weather-marks, or so diversified in colourmg from
new rents in the soil. Long sweeps of orange and
grey stones descend to Crummock Water; and
above, there are large hollows, like craters, filled
now with deep blue shadows, and now with tumb-
ling white mists, above which yellow or purple
peaks change their hue with every hour of the day,
or variation of the sky. ‘The bare, hot-looking —
débris on the Melbreak side, the chasms in the
rocks, and the sudden swellings of the waters, tell
of turbulence in all seasons. The most tremendous
water-spout remembered in the region of the lakes,
descended the ravine between Grassmoor and White-
side, in 1760. It swept the whole side of Grass-
WATERSPOUT, 181
moor at midnight, and carried down everything
that was lying loose all through the vale below,
and over a piece of arable land at the entrance,
where it actually peeled the whole surface, carrying
away the soil and the trees, and leaving the rocky
substratum completely bare. The soil was many
feet deep, and the trees full-grown. ‘Then it laid
down what it brought, covering ten acres with the
rubbish. -By the channel left, it appears that the
flood must have been five or six yards deep, and
a hundred yards wide. Among other pranks, it
rooted up a solid causeway, which was supported
by an embankment apparently as strong as the
neighbouring hills. The flood not only swept
away the whole work, but scooped out the entire
line for its own channel. The village of Bracken-
thwaite, which stood directly in its course, was
saved by being built on a stone platform,— a cir-
cumstance unknown to the inhabitants till they now
saw themselves left safe on a promontory, while
the soft soil was swept away from beside their very
doors, leaving a chasm where the flood had been
turned aside by the resistance of their rock. The
end of the matter was, that the flood poured into
the Cocker, which rose so as to lay the whole south-
western plain under water for a considerable time.
On leaving Buttermere, and passing the very
small chapel (which yet is “quite big” compared
with the former one on the same site) the road up
Buttermere Haws to Newlands is seen ascending
to the left. The Lake of Buttermere is only a
mile and a quarter in length, and a little more than
half a mile in breadth. The mountains which
enclose it have been already named (p. 127.) The
M 3
182 HONISTER CRAG.
torrent that will be observed flowing down the
steep into the lake is called —as others in the dis-
trict are — Sourmilk Ghyll: and it issues from
Bleaberry or Burtness Tarn, on the side of Red
Pike. The pretty domain near the margin of the
lake is Hasness. Then comes Gatesgarth, — the
farmstead whence the road to Scarf
Gap is taken, by which, as we have
told, London gentlemen and Kendal ladies have
run into such extreme danger. From Gatesgarth
begins one of the wildest bits of read m the district.
It climbs Buttermere Vale, by an ascent at first
gradual, and latterly extremely steep, to the base
GATESGARTH.
of Honister Crag. It is a vast stony valley, where —
sheep and their folds, and a quarryman’s hut here
and there, are the only signs of civilization. There
are no bridges over the stream — the infant Cocker
—which must be crossed many times; and where
there are no stepping-stones, the pedestrian must
wade. Everybody walks up the last reaches of the
ascent, —so steep and stony is the
narrow road, and so formidable its un-
fenced state. The dark, stupendous, almost per-
pendicular Honister Crag, frowns above; and as
the traveller, already at a considerable height, looks
up at the quarrymen in the slate-quarries near the
summit, it almost takes his breath away to see
them hanging like summer-spiders quivering from
the eaves of a house.
These quarrymen are a hardy race, capable of
feats of strength which are now rarely heard of
elsewhere. No heavily-armed knight,
cae who ever came here to meet the Scot
QUARRYMEN.
—and there were such encounters on
HONISTER CRAG.
SLATE QUARRYMEN. 183
this spot in the ancient border-wars— carried a
greater weight, or did more wonders in a day than
these fine fellows, The best slate of Honister Crag
is found near the top: and there, many hundred
feet aloft, may be seen, by good eyes, the slate-
built hovels of some of the quarrymen, while others
ascend and descend many times between morning
and night. Now the men come leaping down with
their trucks at a speed which appears appalling to
strangers. Formerly, the slate was brought down
on hurdles, on men’s backs: and the practice is still »
continued in some remote quarries, where the ex-
pense of conveyance by carts would be too great,
or the roads do not admit of it. About forty years
ago there was a man named Joseph Clark at Honis-
ter, who made seventeen journeys, (including seven-
teen miles of climbing up and scrambling down,)
in one day, bringing down 10,880 pounds of slate.
In ascending, he carried the hurdle, weighing
eighty pounds; and in descending, he brought
each time 640 pounds of slate. At another time he
carried, in three successive journeys, 1,280 pounds
each time. His greatest day’s work was bringing
11,771 pounds; in how many journeys it is not
remembered, but in fewer than seventeen. He
lived at Stonethwaite, three miles from his place
of work. His toils did not appear to injure him:
and he declared that he suffered only from thirst.
It was believed in his day that there was,scarcely
another man in the kingdom capable of sustaining
such labour for a course of years.
In some places where the slate is closely com-
pacted, and presents endways and perpendicular
surface, the quarryman sets about his work as if he
184 BORROWDALE HAWS TO KESWICK.
were going after eagles’ eggs. His comrades let
him down by a rope from the precipice; and he
tries for a footing on some ledge, where he may
drive in wedges. The difficulty of this, where much
of his strength must be employed in keeping his
footing, may be conceived: and a great length of
time must be occupied in loosening masses large
enough to bear the fall without being dashed into
useless pieces. But, generally speaking, the methods
are improved, and the quarries made accessible by
tracks admitting of the passage of strong carts.
Still the detaching of the slate, and the loading and
conducting the carts, are laborious work enough
to require and train a very athletic order of men.
In various parts of the district, the scene is marked
by mountains of dééris, above or within which yawn
black recesses in the mountain side, where the
summer thunders echo, and the winter storms send
down formidable slides into the vales below.
At the turn under Honister Crag, the vales
behind disappear, and Borrowdale begins to open
, upon the eye,— at first in the form
BOR of a triangular bit of green level far
below among the hills. By degrees,
the overlapping mountains part asunder, and dis-
close more farmsteads and broader levels, till the
fences are reached. ‘Thence, it is a steep and
rough descent upon Seatoller, by the side of a
plunging and roaring stream, and its canopy of
trees. Passing through the farmyard at Seatoller,
the travellers find themselves in Borrowdale, with
only two miles more to Rosthwaite, (p. 122.) and
eight to Keswick, and an excellent road all the
way.
NATURAL CHANGES. 185
Thus have our travellers, in the space of four
days, seen the greater part of the lakes and moun-
tains. If they have used their eyes and
minds, they must have observed some-
thing of the material, moral, and social
changes going on perpetually in this once secluded
corner of the United Kingdom.
As for the material changes, — those wrought in
silence by Nature are of the same quiet, gradual
kind that have been going on ever since the moun-
_ tains were upreared. She disintegrates the rocks,
and now and then sends down masses thundering
along the ravines, to bridge over a chasm, or make
* a new islet ina pool. She sows her seeds in crevices,
or on little projections, so that the bare face of the
precipice becomes feathered with the rowan and the
birch; and thus, ere long, motion is produced by
the passing winds, in a scene where all once appeared
rigid asa mine. She draws her carpet of verdure
gradually up the bare slopes, where she has deposited
earth to sustain the vegetation. She is for ever
covering with her exquisite mosses and ferns every
spot which has been left unsightly, till nothing
appears that can offend the human eye, within
a whole circle of hills. She even silently rebukes
and repairs the false taste of uneducated man. If
he makes his dwelling of too glaring a white, she
tempers it with weather stains; if he indolently
leaves the stone walls and blue slates unrelieved by
any neighbouring vegetation, she supplies the need-
ful screen by bringing out tufts of delicate fern in
the crevices, and springing coppice on the nearest
slopes. The most significant changes, however, are
in the disposition of the waters of the region. The
RETURN TO
KESWICK.
186 NATURAL CHANGES.
margins of the lakes never remain the same for
half-a-century together. The streams bring down
soft soil incessantly ; and this more effectually
alters the currents than the slides of stones pre-
cipitated from the heights by an occasional storm.
By this deposit of soil new promontories are formed,
and the margin contracts, till many a reach of
waters is converted into land, inviting tillage. The
greenest levels of the smaller valleys may be seen
to have been once lakes: and no one who looks
down upon Grasmere, for instance, from the hill-
field behind the Hollins, can have any doubt as to
what was once the extent of the waters. And,
while Nature is thus closing up in one direction,
she is opening in another. In some low-lying
spot a tree falls, which acts as a dam when the
next rains come. ‘The detained waters sink, and
penetrate, and loosen the roots of other trees; and
the moisture which they formerely absorbed goes
to swell the accumulation till the place becomes a
swamp. The drowned vegetation decays and sinks,
leaving more room, till the place becomes a pool
on whose bristling margin the snipe arrives to rock
on the bulrush, and the heron wades in the water-
. lilies to feed on the fish which come there nobody
knows how. As the waters spread, they encounter
natural dams, behind which they grow clear and
deepen, till we have a tarn among the hills, which
attracts the browsing flock, and tempts the shep-
herd to build his hut near the brink. Then the
wild swans see the glittering expanse in their flight,
and drop down into it; and the waterfowl make
their nests among the reeds. ‘This brings the
sportsman; and a path is trodden over the hills;
THE STATESMEN. 187
and the spot becomes a place of human resort.
While nature is thus working transformations in
her deeper retreat, the generations of men are more
obviously busy elsewhere. They build their houses,
and plant their orchards on the slopes which con-
nect the levels of the valleys: they encroach upon
the swamps below them, and plough among the
stones on the uplands, — here fencing in new
grounds, there throwing several plots into one: they
_ open slate-quarries, and make broad roads for the
carriage of the produce; they cherish the young
hollies and ash, whose sprouts feed their flocks,
thus providing a compensation in the future for
the past destruction of the woods. Thus, while the
general primitive aspect of the region remains, and
its intensely rural character is little impaired, there
is scarcely a valley in the district which looks the
same from one half-century to another.
The changes among the people proceed faster :
and some of these changes are less agreeable to
contemplate, however well aware we
may be that they are to issue in good.
Formerly, every household had nearly all that it
wanted within itself. The people thought so little
of wheaten bread, that wheat was hardly to be
bought in the towns. Within the last few years,
an old man of eighty-five was fond of telling how,
when a boy, he wanted to spend his penny on
wheaten bread ; and he searched through Carlisle
from morning to evening before he could find a
penny-roll. The cultivator among the hills divided
his field into plots where he grew barley, oats, flax,
and other produce to meet the needs of the house-
hold. His pigs, fed partly on acorns or beech-mast,
THE STATESMEN.
188 THE STATESMEN.
yielded good bacon and hams; and his sheep fur-
nished wool for clothing. Of course he kept cows.
The women spun and wove the wool and flax, and
the lads made the wooden utensils, baskets, fishing
tackle, &e. Whatever else was needed was obtained
from the pedlars who came their rounds two or
three times a year, dropping in among the little
farms from over the hills. The first great change
was from the opening of carriage-roads. There
was a temptation then to carry stock and grain to
fairs and markets. More grain was grown than
the household needed, and offered for sale. In a
little while the mountain-farmers were sure to fail
in competition in the markets with dwellers in
agricultural districts. The mountaineer had no
agricultural science and little skill; and the decline
of the fortunes of the “statesmen,” as they are
locally called, has been regular, and mournful to
witness. They haunt the fairs and markets, losing
in proportion to the advance of improvement else-
where. On their first losses, they began to mort-
gage their lands. After bearing the burden of
these mortgages till they could bear it no longer,
their children have sold the lands: and among the
shop-boys, domestic servants, and labourers of the
towns, we find the names of the former yeomanry
of the district, who have parted with their lands
to strangers. Much misery intervened during the
process of transition. The farmer was tempted to
lose the remembrance of his losses in drink when
he attended the fairs and markets. The capacity
of the dalesmen in this respect, —in the quantity
of strong liquor that they can carry —is remark-
able; and they have only too good a training.
DRAM DRINKING, 189
Spirits are introduced on all occasions. At sales —
of which there are many, every spring and autumn,
in the dales, and which are attended by all the
inhabitants who can go, for miles round — glasses
of spirits are handed round among the purchasers,
all day long. The settling of accounts at Candle-
mas is attended by the same curse, — every debtor
expecting his creditor to offer him the compliment
of a glass of strong liquor. On that day it is
unpleasant for ladies to be abroad, near settlements
where the Candlemas payments are making, — so
many are the drunken people whom they meet.
It is common to swallow the strong liquor undiluted,
in considerable quantity. An old dalesman, wel-
come in Ambleside for his shrewdness, simplicity,
and originality, appeared one day at a house where
the gentleman was absent but the lady at home,
The lady asked the visitor to sit down and await
her husband’s return, proposing to offer him some
spirit and water meantime. He replied, — He
wonnot be nice about t’first part e’t’ offer; but
as tot’ watter, it could be gitten at ony gate
[way] side.
To return to the former condition of the “ states-
man.” The domestic manufactures he carried to
town with him, —the linen and woollen webs
woven by his wife and daughters, — would not sell,
except at a loss, in the presence of the Yorkshire
and Lancashire woollens and cottons made by
machinery. He became unable to keep his children
at home; and they went off to the manufacturing
towns, leaving home yet more cheerless — with
fewer busy hands and cheerful faces — less social
spirit in the dales — greater certainty of continued
190 INTRODUCTION OF RAILWAYS.
loss, and more temptation to drink. Such is the —
process still going on. Having reached this pass, —
it is clearly best that it should go on till the
primitive population, having lost its safety of
isolation and independence, and kept its ignorance
and grossness, shall have given place to a new set
of inhabitants better skilled in agriculture, and in
every way more up to the times. It is mournful
enough to meet the remnants of the old families
in a reduced and discouraged condition: but if they
can no longer fill the valleys with grain, and cover
the hill-sides with flocks, it is right that those who
can should enter upon their lands, and that know-
ledge, industry, and temperance should find their
fair field and due reward.
We have no fear of injury, moral and economical,
from the great recent change, —the introduction
of railways. The morals of rural districts are
usually such as cannot well be made worse by any
change. Drinking and kindred vices abound wher-
ever, in our day, intellectual resources are absent:
and nowhere is drunkenness a more prevalent and
desperate curse than in the Lake District. Any
infusion of the intelligence and varied interests of
the towns-people must, it appears, be eminently
beneficial: and the order of work-people brought
‘by the railways is of a desirable kind. And, as to
the economical effect,—it cannot but be good,
considering that mental stimulus and improved
education are above every thing wanted. Under
the old seclusion, the material comfort of the
inhabitants had long been dwindling; and their
best chance of recovery is clearly in the widest
possible intercourse wich classes which, parallel in
SUPERSTITIONS. - 191
social rank, are more intelligent and better informed
than themselves.
In the pastoral valleys, the trouble occurs now
and then that the milk will not churn. Elsewhere,
: the causes of this are understood, and
&sursestitons, COW and milk are treated accordingly.
Not so here. The cow is at once con-
cluded to be bewitched ; and it is apprehended that
she will spread the witchery to the whole dairy.
So, instead of any sensible method, the remedy
tried is depositing in the cow-house some soil from
the nearest church-yard. As it is probable that
this fails, time is lost in other proceedings. Stir-
ring with a stick from the rowan-tree is one of the
least troublesome. If the cows are distempered, it
is actually a practice in many of the dales to light
“the Need fire;”’ notice being given throughout
the neighbouring valleys, that the charm may be
sent for if wanted. ‘The Need-fire is produced by
rubbing two sticks together. A great pile of com-
bustible stuff is prepared; and the more smoke it
can be made to give the better. When lighted, the
neighbours snatch some of the fire to hurry home
with, and light their respective piles. The cattle,
diseased and sound are then driven through the
fire: as some of the Irish, by a remnant of pagan-
ism, charm their property, and even their children,
by passing or snatching them through the fire,
making strangers ask whether Moloch is acknow-
ledged there still. It is said, in a certain Cumber-
land dale, that when a farmer had driven all his
live property through, he proceeded to drive his
wife after the cows, saying he should then be safe
from all distempers. If a cock crows in the night,
192 . SUPERSTITIONS.
horror and grief sieze on the household: some one
i
:
3
is sure to die. If people meet a black ram, they — %
turn their money for luck. Thus they occupy their
minds and waste their time in the silliest super-
stitions which keep true knowledge out. For the
result, look at the productions of the region, — the -
torn and dirty wool, the sapless and scentless hay,
allowed first to run to seed, and then to lie soaking
and parching for weeks in the field, — the flour, the
meat, the butter, the cheese, look at any of these
products in the more retired vales, and say whether
intercourse with the world outside will not be a
good thing for the fortunes of those within. To
take only the last,— the cheese. After coming
from the other grazing-districts, and seeing how
scientific a matter the management of a dairy has
become, and what the best cheese is, the dairy
management of Cumberland is marvellous. Our
readers cannot be expected to believe the facts
without good testimony: and we may refer them
to such local publications as the “ Lonsdale Maga-
zine,’ where, (in Vol. i. p. 13.) we are told that
the Cumberland cheese is harder than buck-horn;
and that in some places where the husbandmen
wear clogs shod with iron, it is no uncommon
thing to supply the absence of the iron with the
crust of a dry cheese. There is plenty of testimony,
of whatever quality, to cheese striking fire hke a
flint. A soldier used a cheese paring for a flint;
and a blacksmith at Cartmel averred that he struck
sparks from a cheese while cutting it up with an
axe! ae
cad
pes
216 SUMMIT OF HELVELLYN.
Buttermere. Even Honister Crag is seen, in a
hollow, a little to the left of, Catbells. Derwent
Water is not seen: nor from the higher Man,
either Thirlmere or Bassenthwaite; though the two
last are visible from the lower Man. Six lakes are
seen besides many tarns: — Ullswater, Winder-
mere, Esthwaite Water, Coniston, Bassenthwaite,
and Thirlmere. Angle Tarn is particularly con-
spicuous, while its neighbour, Hays Water, is
hidden in its hollow under High Street; the
streams it sends down to Brothers’ Water, are
however very conspicuous when the sun is upon
them.
VI;
ASCENT OF CONISTON OLD MAN.
THERE is one more enterprise which the tourist
would not excuse our omitting. He wants to see
Ree. the copper-mine and the series of tarns
ee on Coniston Old Man; and he hears it
said, and very truly, that the prospects
are finer than any but those from Scawfell and
Helvellyn, — if not indeed, finer than the latter.
The ascent is best made by following the Walna
Scar road which leads from Coniston into Sea-
thwaite. When the traveller has left the bright
and prosperous environs of Coniston behind him,
and entered upon the moor, he begins to feel at
once the exhilaration of the mountaineer. Behind
him les a wide extent of hilly country, subsiding
into the low blue ridges of Lancashire. Below
him he sees, when he turns, here and there a reach
of the Lake of Coniston, — gray, if his walk be, as
it should be, in the morning: gray, and reflecting
the dark promontories in a perfect mirror. Amidst
the grassy undulations of the moor, he sees, here
or there, a party of peat-cutters, with their white
horse; if the sun be out, he looks absolutely glit-
tering, in contrast with the brownness of the ground.
It is truly a wild moor; but there is something
wilder to come. The Coniston mountain towers to
the right; and the only traces of human existence
that can be perceived are the tracks which wind
218 : f
L CONISTON OLD MAN.
along and up its slopes, —the paths to the copper-
mine, — and a solitary house, looking very desolate _
among its bare fields and fences. The precipice
called Dow (or Dhu) Crag appears in front ere
long ; and then the traveller must turn to the right,
and get up the steep mountain-side to the top as
he best may. Where Dow Crag and the Old Man
join, a dark and solemn tarn lies beneath the pre-
cipice, as he will see from above, whence it lies due
west, far below. Round three sides of this Gait’s
Tarn, the rock is precipitous ; and on the other, the
crags are piled in grotesque fashion, and so as to
afford, —as does much of this side of the moun-
tain,— a great harbourage for foxes, against which
the neighbouring population are for ever waging
war. The summit is the edge of a line of rocks —
overhanging another tarn, — Low Water, — which ©
is 2,000 feet above the sea level, while the summit
of the Old Man is 2,632 feet. On this rock, a
“Man” formerly stood; but it was removed by
the Ordnance surveyors, who erected another, much
inferior in convenience; for the first contained a
chamber, welcome to shepherds and tourists over-
taken by bad weather. The mountain consists
chiefly of a very fine roofing-slate, from which a
very large tract of country is supplied, and in which
a very important trade was formerly carried on.
Several of the quarries are now deserted. From
the earliest recorded times, there have been works
here for the extraction of copper; and at present if
is no unusual thing for £2,000 per month to be
paid away in wages. The works
commence at about half a mile up the
mountain, on its east side; and there is a large
COPPER MINES.
CONISTON OLD MAN. 219
establishment of sheds, shops, and offices, clustered
at the upper end of a basin among the hills. If
the traveller desires to explore the mines, he can
descend on that side of the mountain. Meantime,
looking abroad from his perch, he sees (beginning
from Gait’s Tarn) Devoke Water, in a line with
Gait’s Tarn, to the west. It is said that the trout
in that Jake are the best known; and tradition
declares that the comfortable abbots of Furness
imported them from Italy. There is a fine stretch
of sea visible, with the Isle of Man, conspicuous
in good weather. We need not recapitulate the
names of the chief mountains; suffice that Ingle-
borough is visible in one direction, and Lancaster
Castle agajn in another; and in clear weather,
Snowdon. The number of Tarns within view is
remarkable. We have mentioned Gait’s Tarn and
Low Water; beyond the latter lies Seathwaite
Tarn, whence the infant Duddon issues; Stickle
Tarn is conspicuous, lying under Pavy Ark; in a
hollow of the mountain, on its north-east side,
Lowes Water. Only the nearer lakes are seen;
but there is a glorious stretch of sea; and when
the estuaries are full, the coast is a beautiful spec-
tacle. The shores of Coniston and Windermere,
studded with woods and dwellings, are the nearer
beauties.
The finest descent, though the longest, is by the
ridge of Wetherlam, above Levers Water, descend-
ing into Tilberthwaite, and returning to Coniston
through Yewdale, noticed at p. 36.
Walna Scar should here be mentioned. The
traveller has already followed the track as far as
the stream from Gait’s Tarn. After a mile more
220 WALNA SCAR.
of ascent he finds himself on the ridge to the
south of Dow Crag. In descending he has a fine
view of summits, from Blackcombe to
Scawfell, and the valley of the Duddon
opens beautifully beneath him. For the greater
part of the way he has the stream upon his right.
About half way down there is a stile.in the wall on
the opposite side of this stream. By crossing it
and following the track, which is plainly seen, the
top of Dow Crag may be reached. It is about
seven miles from Coniston to Newfield (see p. 156)
by Walna Scar.
WALNA SOAR.
VIE.
HAWES WATER. — PASS OF NANBIELD.
From Penrith to Askham
@owirinton Clary 2.) 2 Ce ee 8 mille
», Mardale Green ao a0 ae dag a0 ie pare ie
pep Nanbicld ent i hae) cies ces ee ye gees pe
», Kentmere Chapel ... 360 iis ae 3 aoe. al)
Total 614
Or, —Mardale, by Nanbield and High Street, to Troutbeck Inn, 6 miles.
THERE remains but one lake to be noticed, and
that is Hawes Water, which is less visited than any
other in the district. It is beautiful,
nawss watm, Dut rather out of the way, except to
visitors who come by Penrith; as they
are usually bent on seeing at once the most cele-
brated points of scenery. Penrith is a neat little
town, busy, from being the great thoroughfare of
the district, but not particularly interesting, except
from some Druidical remains in the neighbourhood,
a curiosity in the churchyard, and the vicinity of
Brougham Castle. The circle called Long Meg
and her daughters is six miles from Penrith; and
no relic of the kind in England is better worth a
visit. In the churchyard of Penrith is the monu-
ment about which nobody really knows any thing,
though it goes by the name of the Giant’s Grave.
It consists of two stone pillars, with four slabs
between them, set up on edge. ‘There are some
undecipherable carvings on the upper part of the
pillars. This was the monument which Sir Walter
Dee BROUGHAM AND LOWTHER CASTLES.
Scott’s family could not get him past, (though
they had all seen it “dozens of times,’’) when,
failing and infirm, he set out on his last sad journey
in pursuit of health. Passing through Penrith, he
would see the Giant’s Grave; and thither he
limped, to wonder once more what it could mean.
The parish of Brougham, Burg-ham (meaning
Castle-town) was the Bovacum of the Romans,
where, as we learn from Nicholson and
Burn, they had a company of Defen-
sores, and left many tokens of their presence in
antiquities which have come to light from time to
time. ‘The Village of Brougham passed into the
hands of the Veteriponts in the reign of John or
Henry III. The Castle of Brougham has been held
by the Veteriponts, Cliffords, and Tuftons, and is
at present the property of the Earl of Thanet. It
is now in ruins; and fine ruins they are. They
stand at the confluence of the Eamont and Low-
ther rivers, at the distance of a mile from Penrith.
Brougham Hall, the seat of Lord Brougham, is
within a mile and a half of Penrith. The traveller
should walk along the river bank from
move the bridge at Brougham Hall to Ask-
ham, and then ascend the steep bank of red
sandstone, overshadowed by trees, to the park of
Lowther Castle. The grounds here are fine;
especially the terrace, which affords a noble walk.
It is very elevated, — broad, mossy,
shady, breezy, and overlooking a con-
siderable extent of country, — some of which is
fertile plain, and some undulating surface, — the
margin of the mountain region. The most remark-
able feature of this landscape is perhaps the hollow,
BROUGHAM.
LOWTHER,
HAWES WATER. 223
within which lies Hawes Water. The park has
some fine old trees; and the number and size of
the yews in the grounds will strike the stranger.
But lasting injury was done to the woods by the
hurricane of 1839, which broke its way straight
through, levelling every thing in its path. On the
road from Askham to Bampton, the high grounds
of Lowther present on the left a nearly straight
line of great elevation, along which runs the park-
wall, almost to the extremity of the promontory.
From a distance, it looks the most enviable position
for a park that can be imagined.
Hawes Water lies about four miles from Askham.
It is little more than three miles long, and about
half a mile broad. One side is richly
wooded; the other nearly bare; anda
pair of bold promontories threaten to cut it in two,
In one part, where the passage is only two or three .
hundred yards wide. Near this point is the little
village of Measand, a pleasant, quiet place where
lodgings may be had, and whence the ascent of
High Street may be made. Round the head of the
lake cluster the great mountains of Harter Fell,
High Street, Kidsty Pike, and others, leaving
space among the skirts for the exquisite little valley
of Mardale. Those who are able to obtain one
of Lord Lonsdale’s boats for the traverse of the
lake may think themselves fortunate ; for this is,
of course, the most perfect way of seeing the
surroundings of so small a sheet of water: and all
other persons are deprived, by prohibition, of the
means of doing so. There are some good houses on
the shores and at the further end; but the occu-
pants who live on the very brink are not allowed to
HAWES WATER.
224 MARDALE.
keep any sort of boat. His lordship’s boats are
said to be procurable for the asking; but the pre-
liminaries are a hindrance. The walk along the
lake-side is, however, easy and agreeable enough.
The road skirts the western bank. The crags
which are sprinkled or heaped about the head of
_ the lake are very fine. They jut out from the
mountain-side, or stand alone on the green slopes,
or collect into miniature mountain-clusters, which
shelter tiny dells, whence the sheep send forth their
bleat. There is a white house conspicuous at the
head of the lake which is not the inn, however the
tired traveller may wish it were. The inn at Mar-
dale Green is full a mile from the water; and
sweet is the passage to it, if the walker be not
too weary. The path winds through the levels.
round the bases of the knolls, past the ruins of the
old church, and among snug little farms, while at
one end of the dale is the lake, and the other is
closed in by the passes to Kentmere and Sleddale ;
and the great pikes tower on either hand. The
stream which gushes here and pauses there, as it
passes among rough stones or through a green
meadow, comes down from Small Water, reinforced
by a brook from Blea Water on High Street,
which joins the other a little above Mardale.
The hostess at Mardale Green Inn, (the Dun
Bull) will make her guests comfortable with homely
food and a clean bed; and the host
will, if necessary, act as a guide up the
passes. The small green level which from the
mountains looks such a mere speck, is of some im-
portance at a distance. It actually sends 3,000
pounds of butter weekly to Manchester by the
MARDALE GREEN.
PASS OF NANBIELD. 225
railway. The carrier’s wagon picks up the baskets
from the scattered dwellings in the dale, and
transmits no less than thirty ewts. per week to the
Manchester folk. ,
The traveller must either go back the way he
came, or climb out of the dale at the head, whence
three tracks branch off from the top of the pass of
Nanbield. One of these tracks turns to the left
before reaching Small Water, and goes down into
Long Sleddale, —to follow which we know of no
sufficient inducement, unless that the way is prac-
ticable for a horse, which the others are not.
Another pass ascends, by the pretty Blea Water,
the slope of High Street on the right, where the
Roman road runs along the ridge. The third goes
forward past Small Water, and drops into Kent-
mere, whence it 1s easy to strike over the fells into
Troutbeck. The choice will depend much on wea-
ther, of course; and we wish the traveller something
more of a choice than was permitted to us when we
were last there, when the wind laid the whole party
flat on the summit of the pass, and put all thought
of High Street quite out of the question. The
account of the weather, given by a resident not far
off is “It donks and it dozzles; and whiles it’s a
bit siftering: but it don’t often make no girt pel.”
That is, —it is misty, and drizzles; and it is some-
times showery ; but there is not often a great down-
pour. The wind however is often strong; and the
exhaustion from a high wind on high ground is
greater than any one would believe who has not
experienced it.
There is no difficulty in the ascent from Mar-
dale Green; but the traveller indulges in frequent
Pp
w
226 KENTMERE HALL.
‘ |
rests, for the sake of looking back upon the singu-
larly-secluded valley, with its winding
stream, its faintly-marked track, and
its little inn, recognised to the last by the sycamores
and poplars which overshadow its roof, and rustle
before the door. Then he comes to the hollow
where lies the tarn, — Small Water. Here he will
rest again, sitting among scattered or shelving
rocks, and drinking from this pure mountain basin.
Arrived at the top, he loses sight of Mardale, and
greets Kentmere almost at the same moment. The
dale behind is wild as any recess in the district:
while before him lies a valley whose grandeur is
all at the upper end, and which spreads out and
becomes shallower with every mile of its recession
from the great mountain-cluster.
When he has gone down a mile, he finds that he
is travelling on one side of Kentmere Tongue, —
the projection which, in this and most
=m Other valleys, splits the head of the
dale into a fork. When he arrives at the chapel,
he finds that there is a carriage-road which would
lead him forth to Staveley and Kendal. But he is
probably intending to go over into Troutbeck: so
he turns up to the right, and pursues the broad
zigzag track which leads over the fell, till Trout-
beck opens beneath him on the other side. Before
beginning the ascent, however, he will note Kent-
mere Hall,— the birth-place of Bernard Gilpin, in
1517. If familiar with the old description of the
district, he will look for Kentmere Tarn, and won-
der to see no trace of it. It is drained away ; and
fertile fields now occupy the place of the swamp,
reeds and shallow water which he might have seen
NANBIELD,
APPLETHWAITE COMMON. 221
but a few years ago. While this tarn existed, the
mills at Kendal were very irregularly supplied with
water. Now, when the streams are collected in a
reservoir, which the traveller sees in coming down
from the pass of Nanbield, and the intercepting
tarn is done away with, the flow of water no longer
fails.
The track crosses Applethwaite Common into
Troutbeck, descending upon the chapel and the
bridge in the very depth of that primitive valley,
which was one of the first we described (p. 45.)
We believe that in the whole circuit there is no
scene or object of importance omitted in our detail.
p2
VIil.
ASCENT OF HIGH STREET.
Hicu Street may, as we have seen, be ascended
from Mardale Green; but it may also be climbed
from Troutbeck, and from Hartsop.
row wimps, 22 going from Mardale Green care
must be taken to make a sufficiently
wide circuit of Blea Water. Its rocky boundaries
are very steep, and more than one unfortunate
tourist has been “crag fast,” and rescued with
difficulty, in consequence of having attempted to
descend too near the tarn. Observing this caution,
the traveller may ascend either by the northern or
southern ridge. The former is generally recom-
mended by dwellers in the dale. ‘The top of High
Street is, as has been said, immediately above
Blea Water.
The ascent from Troutbeck was mentioned at
p. 48. If the traveller starts from Hartsop, he
will first visit Hays Water (see p. 150.)
mow ee From the north end of this tarn he
will find a zigzag path in an easterly direction.
This will lead him to the ridge; and he will then
be guided by a series of posts, past the top of
Kidsty Pike, to the Roman Road. The road is
grown over with grass, like the other parts of the
ridge, but is clearly defined. After following it for
about a mile the traveller catches sight of Winder-
mere, and then he must turn eastwards. A few
HIGH STREET. 229
paces will bring him to the cairn which marks the
summit, and a few more to the precipice beneath
which lies Blea Water.
In ascending by this route the distant views are
finer than by either of the others. The most in-
teresting is that of Helvellyn, of which more is
seen than from any other height. Its great arms
Swirrel and Striding Edge he stretched out as if
on a map. The “men” on its summits are also
seen, and the hollows which contain its tarns.
Most of the mountains of the district are rugged
and precipitous on the eastern, and rounded and
grassy on the western side. This is remarkably
the case with Helvellyn, and, as its relative position
to the other high summits causes its being seen
most frequently from the western side, its full
grandeur is not apparent till the traveller has ob-
tained the view of it from Kidsty Pike or the
ridge of High Street.
The height of High Street is 2,700 feet. The
summit is very fine. To the east lies Blea Water,
600 feet below, and, in the valley be-
viaw Fz0M THB yond, the little white house is the inn
‘at Mardale Green. ‘Turning north-
wards Hawes Water is seen, and then Kidsty Pike
shuts out the more distant view. West of Kidsty
Pike, an opening over the hills allows the traveller
a glimpse of the Scotch mountains. Then comes
Skiddaw peeping over the shoulder of Helvellyn.
Nearer, Ullswater is concealed by Hallin Fell and
Place Fell. The various summits of the Fairfield
range are seen on the west, and between them the
Langdale Pikes and Scawfell. Wetherlam and
Coniston Old Man are more to the south, and
P3
280 HIGH STREET.
Blackcombe ends the line of mountains. Close at
hand are Froswick, Ill Bell and Yoke. Nearly
the whole length of Windermere is seen and a long
stretch of sea coast.
PA RIE. V.
PEDESTRIAN TOUR.
THR circuit of the Lake District has now been de-
scribed in the course which will be found most
convenient to the majority of tourists, viz., — those
who travel in carriages. There still remains some--
thing more to be done, for the sake of pedestrians.
There are many places which they will delight to
visit that cannot be reached by carriage travellers,
and many fine views which they alone can enjoy.
In order to enable them to make the best use of
their time, the following tour has been sketched
out. It has been planned with a special view to
avoiding the main roads, in order to give the tra-
veller as much mountaineering as possible. We
need not dwell on the pleasures of climbing the
heights, and of threading the little-frequented
dales: for they must be experienced to be appre-
ciated. The pedestrian will find, at the end of his
circuit, that he has seen the district more thorough-
ly than he could have done in any other way. The
tour is divided into ten days; but it may be
lengthened or restricted. The distance marked out
for each day’s journey is very moderate, in order to
admit ofthe traveller’s visiting whatever there is of
interest in the neighbourhood of his halting place.
232 PEDESTRIAN’S OUTFIT.
It is unnecessary to repeat the information which
has been already given. The traveller will there-
fore find, in the following pages, merely an outline
of his route, with references to the fuller descrip-
tions in the preceding part of the volume.
Before starting, the pedestrian should see that he
is well provided with travelling gear. He has, no
doubt, a ouidebook and map: but ‘has
ees ale oe ‘compass ? If he will make in-
quiries in any dale he visits, or at any
farmhouse he passes, he will hear of tourists who
have lost their way, many of them getting into
difficulty and danger, and having to spend the
night upon the mountains. Every house has its
tale of one or more strangers coming in cold and
exhausted after such nights, and seeking help;
or of others only saved from such a fate by having
met with the farmer, or some one of his men, who
has directed them into the right road to their
destination. Often, again, a stranger may be heard
to relate how he has left one valley with the inten-
tion of crossing to another, and, after hours of
walking, has at last found himself in the same
from which he started, or even in one west of it,
when he thought he was gomg east. The sequel to
all these stories is that the stranger had no compass.
A sudden fog may perplex even the best guides;
then also a compass is a necessary help. “TI never
should ha’ gotten *em down safe, if one of the
gentlemen had not had a compass,” said one of the
guides in relating an adventure among the mists on
Scawfell ; ; and plenty more might give similar
testimony.
Thick-soled boots are also necessary ; and if they
FIRST DAY. ; 238
have large-headed nails, so much the better. The
security given by really thick boots, either in rocky
or slippery places, is surprising. The traveller will,
of course, provide himself with an alpenstock, and
he will find great assistance from the use of it. He
will also be furnished with a wine-flask and sand-
wich box. These may add materially to his safety
in case of his losing his way.
Having given the pedestrian these hints about
his outfit, we will imagine him beginning his first
day’s tour. Travellers generally, as we have seen,
arrive at Windermere, or Coniston; but a pedestrian
may make his entrance to the District by another
route. By leaving the railway at Kendal or Stave-
ley, (the next station,) he may start upon his first
mountain walk at once.
FIRST DAY.— KENDAL, OR STAVELEY, TO MARDALD GREEN.
The distance to Mardale Green from either of
these points is about fifteen miles. From Kendal,
the Penrith road must be followed for about four
miles and a half, and then the travel-
’ ler turns northwards, and traverses the
valley of Long Sleddale. He follows the course of
the river Sprint, and must keep on the east side of
it. There is little to see of any special interest till
the higher end of the valley is reached, when the
traveller finds himself among mountains. ‘The
stream here exhibits some pretty waterfalls. Care
must be taken to continue on a northerly course.
There is a mountain road out to the
_-BENTMEEE- west. which leads, after passing some
quarries, into Kentmere. This is the Pass of Nan-
LONG SLEDDALE
234 SECOND DAY.
bield (p. 225), and will have been followed if the
stranger has come from Staveley instead of Kendal.
In this case he will have come up the valley of
Kentmere, enjoying as he proceeded, the fine group-
ing of the mountains at its head (see Kentmere,
p. 226.)
The two roads meet near the ridge which divides
Sleddale from Mardale, and about a mile further
on, the traveller finds himself in the beautiful green
valley (see Mardale, p. 224). He is still a mile or
more from Hawes Water: and he must visit it either
after his arrival at the little inn, or the next morn-
ing, before he begins his climb of High Street.
SECOND DAY.—MARDALE GREEN TO ULLSWATER.
If the tourist has seen Hawes Water on the pre-
vious evening, his best way will be to ascend High
Street by the ridge on either side of
mee Sms" Blea Water (p. 228.) If he has not
yet visited the lake he may, after walking along its
shore as far as Measand (three miles), ascend by
Fordendale to Kidsty Pike. There is no difficulty
in finding the way by map and compass. From
Kidsty Pike the posts and Roman Road (see p. 228)
will guide him to the summit.
The descent must be made by following the
Roman Road, north, and by the help of these
posts, till the traveller is due east of
mys wae ‘Hays Water. He may then make
for the tarn and, having reached it, follow the path
to Hartsop (p. 150.) By the time he has reached
this place he has probably walked about eight miles.
Three more will bring him to Patterdale, where he
THIRD DAY, 235
will take up his quarters at one of the inns, and
spend the rest of the day in exploring the beauties
of Ullswater, (see p. 51), and visiting Ara Force.
The best views of the lake are obtained from the
water, and boats may be had at the inns.
There is now a bridle-road all round the lake,
which enables tourists to make the circuit, if they
prefer this mode of seeing it.
THIRD DAY.— ULLSWATER TO KESWICK.
The great achievement of this day is the ascent
of Helvellyn. The pedestrian may start either by
Grisedale or Glenridding, and then,
passing Red Tarn, take the path up
Swirrel Edge. (See ascent of Helvellyn p. 214.)
If the weather should be unfavourable, it is a
mere waste of time and strength to ascend this, or
any other of the higher mountains of the district.
To be on Helvellyn in a mist is at best disappoint-
ing, and may be dangerous. The traveller, in such
a case, has a resource in the mountain road, by
Grisedale Tarn, to Grasmere (p. 212). This will
lead him out at the foot of Dunmail Raise, and he
must then follow the main road to Wythburn.
Wythburn is his destination whether he goes over
the mountain or only skirts it: so he must take
care to descend on that side, if he should have been ~
fortunate enough to make the ascent. :
From Wythburn he must make his way over the
fells to Watendlath ; and to do this he has a choice
of two ways. He ey on at ee
WYTHBUEN TO ond pass Harrop an ea Larns, (p.
cnet. = 103). Or he na take the western
side of Thirlmere, and cross the ridge from Arm-
HELVELLYN.
236 FOURTH AND FIFTH DAYS.
both (p. 104). From Watendlath he will take the
road to Rosthwaite (p. 118) and, finally, see Borrow-
dale and Derwentwater before he reaches Keswick.
The distances travelled this day are from seven-
teen to nineteen miles, according to the route taken.
FOURTH DAY.—SKIDDAW AND BASSENTHWAITE.
If the traveller has time to spare he cannot do
better than make the excursion mentioned at p.
132, beginning with the ascent of Skiddaw, and
afterwards completing the circuit of
Bassenthwaite. The distance traversed
depends upon the part of Skiddaw at
which the descent is made. The longest route is
said to be twenty-eight miles. The stranger may
save himself more than a mile at the end by stop-
ping for the night at Portinscale.
SKEIDDAW AND
BASSENTHWAITE.
FIFTH DAY.— VALE OF NEWLANDS, BUTTERMERE, ORUMMOOK
AND ENNERDALE.
The traveller will begin this day’s journey either
from Keswick or Portinscale. The route marked
out is about seventeen miles. A pedestrian who is
disposed to lengthen it may begin with the ascent
of Catbells or Causey Pike. Both are
camper. described in the Walks about Keswick,
p. 115 and p. 114. Experienced guides strongly
recommend the ascent of Catbells. The view from
the top is nearly as fine as that from Skiddaw,
while its lesser height renders the summit less
liable to be encompassed with mists.
Whatever course the pedestrian may take, he
SIXTH DAY. 237
will descend Newlands Haws to Buttermere (p. 126).
He ee ey make one of the little
inns, at this village, his restine-pla
and get his dinner there. He will then ie Sale
Force, (p. 127), reaching it either by boat, or by
walking round the head of Crummock Water. The
way to Ennerdale is nearly due west from Scale
Force. It is described (reversed) at p. 174. The
boggy ground on the right is a noted place for
cranberries ; and if the stranger happens to come
this way in August or September he will probably
find many persons busily engaged in gathering
them; at all other times the place is wild and
desolate.
Soon after passing Floutern Tarn, Ennerdale
Lake comes into view. The white house by its side,
nestling among trees, is the Angler’s
inn; and there the traveller may find
comfortable quarters for the night.
BUITERMERE.
ENNEBDALE,
SIXTH DAY.— ENNERDALE, SCARF GAP, HONISTER CRAG AND
BORROWDALE.
This day’s journey is about sixteen miles; and in
the course of it the traveller will have the oppor-
tunity of enjoying some of the finest scenery in
the District. His way lies through wild and un-
frequented parts, and he will pass no inns. He
will, therefore, do well to supply himself with pro-
visions before starting.
There are boats at the inn; so, if the stranger is
disposed to save himself the first three miles, his
host will row him to the head of the lake. Fora
description of Ennerdale and the valley of the Liza,
238 SEVENTH -DAY.
see pp. 172,173. It may be as well to mention that
at the farmhouse at Gillerthwaite, in
this valley, sleeping accommodation
may be had. It is useful to know this, for there
is, probably, no valley in the district in which more
strangers have lost their way. Much has already
been said of this; but we must give one more in-
stance. A poor traveller was seen, about Christmas,
1859, to pass along the southern side of the lake,
and up the valley. Three days afterwards he was
found, lying dead on the snow, at no great distance
from Gillerthwaite. There was nothing about him
by which he could be identified ; and it is not known,
to this day, who he was. His body was brought
to the inn, and, after all possible inquiries had been
made, was buried. It is supposed that night over-
took him, and, not being able to find his way to
any house, he had perished from cold.
It is seven miles from the inn at Ennerdale to
the head of the valley. The traveller must, on
reaching it, look out for the Scarf Gap
path. He ought to have a guide who
will save him all anxiety in the matter; but if he
has not, he will find the best help we can give in
the description of Blacksail and Scarf Gap (p. 210).
After crossing Scarf Gap he will find his way to
Gatesgarth, (p. 182), and thence under Honister
Crag, and by Seatoller to Rosthwaite (p. 184).
GILLERTHWAITE.
SCARB GAP.
SEVENTH DAY.—STY HEAD, WASTWATER, BURNMOOR TARX,
ESKDALE AND THE DUDDON,
From Rosthwaite by the Sty Head Pass, to Wast-
dale Head is about seven miles. The road is
EIGHTH DAY. 239
described at p. 201. There is a fine view of
“ Wastwater to be obtained by climbing
the side of Great Gable from Sty Head
Tarn. There is no path up this steep mountain
side; and the traveller has a long day’s work before
him ; so he will probably content himself with the
sight of the dale head as it opens upon him from
the top of the Pass.
From Wastdale Head he must take the moun-
tain road to Bout, (see p. 160), and from Bout a
choice of roads presents itself. The
mia puppow, pedestrian may go up Eskdale, and
over Hardknot (see p. 162,) to Cockley
Beck, descending thence by the side of the Duddon,
so as to sleep at Newfield (p. 157). Or he may
turn south at once, see Stanley Ghyll, and take
the road to Ulpha Kirk (p. 158). By the first
route he will have walked about twenty-three
miles; if he has chosen the other, about seventeen
miles.
The inns at Newfield and Ulpha Kirk are small
and primitive ; but at one village or the other the
traveller will probably find accommodation.
STY HEAD.
EIGHTH DAY. ——THE DUDDON, WALNA SCAR, CONISTON AND
LANGDALE.
Tf the traveller has slept at Ulpha Kirk, he follows
the course of the Duddon to Newfield (p. 156).
Thence he crosses Walna Scar to Con-
wanna se iston (p. 219). If he wishes to ascend
Dow Crag and the Old Man, he must leave the
road about half way up, where he sees a stile in
the wall on the opposite bank of the stream (see
24.0 NINTH DAY.
p. 220). If he prefers the less fatiguing way, he
continues along the track which lies before him.
Soon after crossing the ridge, he may leave the
road, and climb along the side of the mountain to
Gait’s Tarn. The deep hollow in which it lis is
unmistakeable. After reaching Conis-
ton, the tourist has but the eight miles
to Langdale in prospect; so he will probably find
leisure to explore the beauties of the lake (see Con-
iston, p. 83). The road he has to follow, through
Yewdale, Tilberthwaite and Langdale, is described
at pp. 36 and 197.
At the inn, under the Langdale Pikes, the stran-
ger will find sleeping accommodation, and a guide
for the next day’s expedition.
CONISTON.
NINTH DAY.—ROSSET GHYLL, SCAWFELL, EASEDALE, GRAS-
MERE AND AMBLESIDE.
This day’s excursion is a regular mountain walk,
and should not be attempted by any stranger with-
out a guide. Leaving Langdale, the tourist pro-
ceeds up the valley of Mickleden to
“Rosset Ghyll. He must climb this
gully, where there is hardly a trace of a path; and
in doing so he will be shewn where, on his right, ~
the Stake Pass begins. After reaching the top he
will skirt Angle Tarn, under Bowfell, reach Esk
Hause, and then ascend Scawfell Pikes (p. 206).
His course hence is nearly due east, Easedale
Tarn being the point to which he is bound. His
guide will point out the various sum-
BOs mits as they come into view. Among
them Codale Pike, above Codale Tarn,
is a distinguishing landmark. It stands out alone
‘TENTH DAY. 241
from the ridge, and cannot be missed. Having
reached it, the traveller is near Easedale; and
thence his way to Grasmere is by the path described
at p. 78. It is difficult to estimate the distance
to be traversed in this walk; but it is said to be
about fifteen miles. It will leave the traveller time
to see Grasmere, (p. 80), and to proceed to Am-
bleside in the afternoon. He has now the choice
between either of the terrace walks on Loughrigg,
or a Scar, (see p. 65 and p. 64) and the high
road.
TENTH DAY. — AMBLESIDE, KIRKSTONE PASS, TROUTBECE,
BOWNESS AND WINDERMERE,
If the pedestrian is inclined for one more moun-
tain walk, he may obtain it by going up the
Kirkstone Pass (p. 54) and finding his way down
Troutbeck, p. 45.
In order to see as much of Windermere as pos-
sible, he will probably take the more northerly
road down the valley of Troutheck,
ue This will bring him into the high road
near Low Wood Inn, whence he may take the
steamer to Bowness. (See p. 9). From Bowness
it is a mile and a half to the village of Windermere.
Here the railway begins, and the tourist must
consider his circuit ended. If he has followed the
route sketched for him, he will be able to carry
away an accurate knowledge of the chief features
of the Lake District.
were
Lave
ACA
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Brick ae
METEOROLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT.
We can devote but a short space to this subject, though so in-
teresting to tourists, as much of their enjoyment depends on the
changes of the weather to which they must be liable.
Few, if any, visit this part of the kingdom, without a pre-
conceived apprehension, that because in mountainous districts the
weather is so changeable and often wet, they must expect to meet
with frequent and serious apprehensions to their progress. We
heartily wish to dissipate such a notion, as it tends to diminish the
anticipated enjoyment of tourists in the Lake District, and is
often greatly at variance with their actual experience. It is true,
that in July the weather is generally more unsettled with us than
in any other month; but even then, as at other times, the expe-
rience of tourists will prove, that there is very rarely a whole
day, or, at any rate, there are still seldomer two or three succes-
sive days, in which their progress need be suspended. The very
intervals between showers are often peculiarly enjoyable, from the
purity of the air; and the lights and shades on the mountains
are in such intervals often truly captivating, and serve in great
measure to lessen the disappointment of being obliged to keep
within doors more than is agreeable. Several such intervals will
gener? ally be found, in which one may stroll about without risk of
suffering from showers.
It was a saying of King Charles II, to some who were boasting
of the climate of Italy, that he considered that to be the finest
climate in which he could with enjoyment, or at least without
inconvenience, be in the open air the most hours of the day, and
the most days in the year; and that he considered to be the
climate of England,
Q 2
We
24.4 METHOROLOGY.
In the months of August and September, the weather is with
us much more settled than in J uly ; and then day after day, and
often week after week the tourist may calculate on a succession
of rambles without interruption.
In comparison with many of the continental countries, the
climate of England is certainly a damp one, but to persons in
tolerable health, this very moisture is beneficial, if not agreeable,
as is shown by the high condition of all animals from man down-
wards. The habit of regular exercise in the open air, which is
found to be so salutary in Enzland, is scarcely possible in many
other countries, the extremes of heat and cold rendering such
exercise impracticable. The high-flowing health, so common in
England compared with most other countries, is no doubt con-
sequent, in some measure, on this habit, and also on the character
of our climate. ‘“ Very English-looking ” is a phrase common in
other countries, and intended to be synonymous with “very
healthy-looking.”
It is often remarked, that visitors to the Lake District are less
anxious about the heat than the wetness of the weather. It is
true that in some localities the annoyance arising from rain may
prove a temporary inconvenience. It is only within the last four-
teen years that we have been aware, by the results obtained from
the observations of the late Dr. Miller, of Whitehaven, of the
amazing depth of rain which falls on some of the Lake mountains.
The annual average quantity of rain in many parts of the south
of England does not exceed 20 inches, and sometimes does not
reach eyen that amount. It was shewn by these experiments,
that in 1852, 81 inches were measured gn Scawfell Pike; at
Great Gable 86; at Sty Head 124; at Seathwaite, Borrowdale,
156; and at Sprinkling Tarn 168 inches nearly. The mean rain-
fall for England is about 30 inches. The annual average at
Kendal, in the south of this district, is 52 inches. This town
and Keswick had, before these observations by Dr. Miller, been
considered the wettest places known in England. Notwithstand-
ing these great differences in the quantity of rain, the number of
rainy days is not in the same ratio, there being no very great
METEOROLOGY. 248
difference between the wettest locality, and one in a much drier
district. In several other parts of England, they have a greater
number of days on which rain falls than in these where the quan-
tity is so extraordinary. There are however places within the
Tropics, where the annual quantity amounts to 200 and even 300
inches. In a district of Hindostan, N.E. of Calcutta, Dr. Hooker
states, that in one month 264 inches were measured; and more
than 600 is the annual fall there! In comparison with these, how
trifling is that of 20 or even 50 inches in the year. In Provence,
in the south of France, the fall in a year is about 20 inches. In
1843, they had but six days of rain in that year and two months
of the following year; and in the next four months of 1844, only
three, making nine days only in eighteen months on which rain
fell. Who would not therefore prefer the favoured land in which
we live to either of these districts ?
The quantity of rain in these mountainous districts appears,
from Dr. Miller’s observations, to increase as we ascend the
eminences, until we attain the height of 2,000 feet above the
level of the sea, when it begins to diminish. In any one locality,
if several guages are placed at different altitudes, the lowest
almost invariably registers the greatest quantity. In the Lake
District, Scawfell, which is the highest land in England, and
3,229 feet above the sea-level, registered in 1847, 128 inches;
and Sprinkling Tarn, 1,900 feet high, 207 inches. At the latter
place, the largest quantity has been registered that has been yet
taken in any situation. There are a few exceptions to these facts,
however, in these very localities.
The result of these observations show, that at least 60 inches
more rain are deposited in England than we were previously
aware of; that 150 inches sometimes descend in the Lake District
in a year — more than falls in most of the Tropics with which we
are acquainted, and sufficient to drown two of the tallest men
in Great Britain, standing one on the top of the other. They
have further informed us of the fact, that six-and-a-half perpen-
dicular inches of water are sometimes precipitated from the
atmosphere in twenty-four hours, and ten inches in forty-eight
Q 3
246 METEOROLOGY.
; * hours, a quantity which would be thought large for any two
consecutive months in most parts of England. The almost
incredible depth of 30 inches occasionally descends in a single
month — a fall nearly equal to the calculated yearly average for
all other parts of England. Dr. Miller’s experiments have, in
short, enabled us to collect a number of new and curious facts
bearing on the quantity and the very unequal distribution of rain
in this island. The law of gradation in the amount of rain
between the valleys and the tops of the highest mountains, is also
thus ascertained at various intermediate points, with a high
degree of probability.
A little consideration will greatly lessert our surprise at the
enormous quantity of water deposited in the hilly districts of
Westmorland and Cumberland. To those unacquainted with
these localities, it may be briefly stated, that the Lake District
valleys radiate from a series of mountains of ‘slate and primitive
rock, having Great Gable (2,954 feet in height,) as a nucleus or
central point ; and in the immediate vicinity of which are Scaw-
fell and Pillar, of the respective elevations of 3,229 and 2,932
feet, and Great End, and Bowfell, and Glaramara not much
inferior in altitude. These monntains are distant only about
ten to twelve miles, in a direct line, from the Irish Sea, and as
no hills intervene, they are consequently fully exposed to our
wet and prevailing winds, which are the S. W. The warm
south-westerly current arrives at the coast loaded with moisture
obtained in its transit across the Atlantic; and these experiments
justify the conclusion, that this current has its maximum density
at about 2,000 feet above the sea-level; hence it will travel on-
ward until it is obstructed by land of sufficient elevation to
precipitate its vapour ; and, retaining a portion of the velocity of
the lower parallels of latitude whence it was originally set in
motion, it rapidly traverses the short space of level country, and |
with little diminution of its weight or volume; but on reaching
the mountains it meets with a temperature many degrees lower
than the point at which it can continue in a state of vapour;
sudden condensation consequently ensues, in the form of vast
METEOROLOGY. 24:7
torrents of rain, which, in some instances, must descend almost in
a continuous sheet, as when 9 or 10 inches are precipitated in
forty-eight hours. When we reflect that a warm moist current,
perhaps only three or four degrees above the point of saturation,
in coming in contact with the mountain-ridges, probably meets
with a stratum of air ten or fifteen degrees lower than its own
inherent temperature, we shall cease to marvel that such quan-
tities as 4, 5, or even 6 inches of water should be deposited
in these localities in the course of a few hours. The mountains
are, in fact, huge natural condensers, destined to force from
the atmosphere the mighty volumes of water requisite for the
supply of our lakes and rivers.
One might have supposed that the greatest fall of rain would
have been at Wastdale Head, as it is surrounded by the highest
mountains, and the valley opens out fairly to the S.W. But the
maximum guantity is not found to obtain where theory would
indicate, in the vale of Borrowdale, which affords the principal
supply of water to the river Derwent, and the extensive and
picturesque lakes of Derwent Water and Bassenthwaite. To
refer again to the fact that among the mountains the quantity of
rain increases to the altitude.of 2,060 feet, and then diminishes
above that limit: — this may perhaps be accounted for, by con-
cluding, that as the clouds are seldom a mile high, (or little more
than one and a half times the height of Scawfell,) in our climate,
in winter, there can be no doubt that, during the winter months
especially, the under surface of the Nimbus or rain-cloud, (the
lowest except the Stratus) is far below the tops of our highest
mountains, and we may safely conclude, not unfrequently, its
upper surface also. Now, when this is the case, the guages on
Scawfell, Great Gable, &c., will receive no rain at all, when it is
descending abundantly in the valleys beneath. The lowness of the
rain-cloud at this season is probably the principal cause of the
small quantity of rain in proportion to the valley during the
winter as compared with the summer months.
The winds in this part of our island are chiefly from the west
and south-west, and these are loaded with moisture evaporated
248 METEOROLOGY.
from the Irish Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. When their contents
reach the colder air of the mountainous distiicts, they are con-
densed and are deposited on the sides of the eminences which
arrest their progress, and thus occasion the extraordinary amounts
of rain in these particular localities. The difference in the tem-
perature of different portions of a no very extended district in a
mountainous country is often considerable. In the process of
restoring the equilibrium thus temporally destroyed, currents
and eddies of wind are propagated, and are often the causes of
sudden and strong gusts which rush down the sides of the moun-
tains, and agitate the surface of the adjoining lakes, to the risk of
the slight sailing-vessels that are kept on most of the larger sheets
of water im this district. This agitation of the surface is often
attributed by the natives to what are termed “ bottom winds,” or
violent currents of air rising from the bottoms of the lakes, and
thus causing these agitations of the surface. The various direc-
tions of the winds among the masses of the mountains, at no great
distance from each other, may be ascribed to the various deflections
of the aérial currents, occasioned by the different positions of the
flanks of the hills, turning the direction of the current from its
original course, so that a wind from the west, for instance, may be
deflected by the flank of a mountain and become a north-west or
south-west wind at another part near to the same place, according
as the face of the hill may tend in one direction or the other. But
little dependence on the probable changes of the weather can be
placed in the direction of the winds near the surface, as these
conformations of the eminences must often and sometimes very
materially alter the original course of the currents in the air.
5. ME
LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL
FLOWERING PLANTS, FERNS, AND MOSSES
GROWING AROUND
WINDERMERE AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.
The banks of Windermere afford many objects of interest to
the lover of British wild flowers ; so numerous and various, indeed,
are the more or less rare plants to be found in the lake itself, —
in the mountain tarns, streams, woods and bogs, and on the fells
and heaths, that it is difficult to give a satisfactory account of
them in the space of a short chapter. A general description of
the Flora of the district may, however, be of some use to the
tourist who, in passing through the country, wishes to secure
anything which may be worthy of a place in his herbarium or
garden. The writer proposes to enumerate the least common
plants which have been found within about three miles of the
lake, occasionally noticing objects of peculiar interest which are
found at a greater distance.
Of the order Ranunculacee, Thalictrum flavum is not uncommon
about the margin of the lake; T. minus is also found ; the beau-
tiful globe-flower Trollius europceus is abundant in various
situations ; Helleborus virdis occurs in two situations near
Windermere terminus, and H. feetidus grows near the road
between Bowness and Kendal; it is very probable that both
these are introduced; Aquilegia vulgaris is found in numerous
places.
Of Nympheeacee, Nympheea alba and Nuphar lutea are frequent
in the lake and many of the mountain tarns.
Of Papaveraceze, Meconopsis cambrica is not uncommon, and in
some places, such as near the Ferry Inn and other parts of
250 PLOWERING PLANTS.
Furness Fells, and in Troutbeck it is abundant; Chelidonium
majus is common.
Of Fumariacem, Corydalis claviculata is not uncommon in heathy
places.
Of Crucifere, Lepidium Smithii is abundant; L. draba grows
near Newby Bridge; Arabis hirsuta is found on Whitbarrow :
Cochlearia officinalis on Kirkstone.
Helianthemum canum, of the order Cistacee, occurs in Witherslack.
Of Droseracew, Drosera rotundifolia is abundant, and D. Long-
" folia is rare.
Of Caryophyllacez, Stellaria nemorum is found in some wet woods
and Ghylls; Silene acaulis grows on Fairfield.
Of Malvacese, Malva moschata and sylvestris are frequent in
various places. - ?
Of Hypericacee, Hypericum androsemum is not uncommon on
wooded fell-sides, generally near rivulets ; H. quadrangulum
and humifusum are common, and H. hirsutum is plentiful on
Whitbarrow.
Of Geranicee, Geranium sylvaticum is not uncommon ; G. luci-
dum is frequent ; G. sanguineum and pratense are abundant on
Whitbarrow.
Of Balsaminacez, Impatiens noli me tangere is plentiful on Fur-
ness Fells, near the Ferry Inn, at Millerground, Gill Head, and
many other places.
Of Rhamnacez, Rhamnus, catharticus and frangula are found on
the islands of Windermere.
Of Leguminiferes, Genista, tinctoria is very abundant, and beau-
tiful in heathy places; Hippocrepis comosa is found at Grange.
Of Rosacez, Prunus padus is common ; Spirza salicifolia grows
near the Ferry Inn, but this is doubtless introduced, as this
plant is now found to be nowhere indigenous in Great Britain ;
Rubus suberectus is found in woods and sometimes on open
mountain-sides; R. saxatilis occurs in a few places; R. idceus
rhamnifolius, leucostachys, and rudis are the most common
species of Rubus here; R. Chamzmorus grows in Long Sled-
dale; we have seen Rosa spinosissima in a few places; R. villosa
is very common.
cag hi
FLOWERING PLANTS. 2 ail:
Of Haloragiacese, Myriophyllum spicatum and verticillatum a-
bound in the lake.
Of Grossulariace, Ribes, rubrum and grossularia are plentiful in
the woods,
Of Crassulaces, Sedum telephium and anglicum are very com-
mon; 8. Rhodiola grows on Fairfield ; and Cotyledon unibilicus
is found in many places.
Of Saxifraga aizoides, stellaris, and hypnoides are found on the
mountain tops; we have not seen S. oppositifolia nearer than
Helvellyn ; S. platypetala grows on the heights of Fairfield ;
Chrysoplenium alternifolium is also found by some rivulets ;
Parnassia Palustris is very abundant.
Of Rubiacez, Galium boreale grows on the islands of Windermere
and Asperula cynanchica is found on Whitbarrow.
Of Umbellifere, Sium augustifolium is common in the streams,
and Myrrhis odorata is by no means rare in old orchards and
elsewhere.
Of Composite, Apargia hispida is common and very handsome ;
Sonchus palustris (?) occurs in some marshy places ; Crepis
paludosa is frequent in wet woods.
Hieracium alpinum is found on Langdale Pikes; H. lawsoni, on
Kirkstone Pass; H. inuloides, in mountain rills; H. sylvaticum
and boreale are common; but we are not able to give a list of
all the mountain species of Hawkweed which may be found in
the district ; the lower range of fells, near the lake, are not
likely to produce any rare species, but the higher series, Fair-
field, High Street, Ill Bell, &c., would be very likely to repay
a more careful search than has hitherto been made. Serratula
tinctoria is plentiful on the shores of the lake; Cardus hetero-
phyllus grows in Troutbeck, Carlina vulgaris on Whitbarrow ;
Centaurea nigrescens is not unfrequent on dry banks; Bidens
cernna is found in Crosthwaite; Eupatorium cannabinum is
everywhere common; Gnaphalium dioicum and sylvaiticum are
abundant, the former on mountain heaths, the latter in woods ;
Petastites vulgaris is found in several places ; Senecio saraceni-
cus grows near Newby Bridge, and in some old orchards, but it
2h? FLOWERING PLANTS.
is probably not indigenous ; Inula conyza is abundant on the
Whitbarrow Fells.
Of Campanulacerz, Campanula latifolia is not unfrequent in woody
places; Jasione montana everywhere abundant, and the larger
form, which has been thought by some to be a distinct species,
is often seen in the meadows; Lobelia dortmanna grown in
shallow water, in almost any part of the lake.
Of Ericaaexw, Vacinium myrtillus is found in nearly every wood ;
and V. oxycoccus in a few places: V. vitis-idea on Langdale
Pikes; Pyrola minor in Stockghyll.
Of Jasminacez, Ligustrum vulgare grows wild in the mountain
woods.
Of Gentianacce, Menyanthes trifoliata is not uncommon in the
bogs; Polemonium cruleum is found in Graythwaite woods.
Of Scrophulariane, Digitalis purpurea is everywhere most abun-
dant and beautiful, ornamenting exery hill and dell with its |
splendid spikes and purple flowers; Verbena officinalis may be
gathered on Whitbarrow. :
Of Orobanchacee, Lathreea squamaria grows on Wansfell.
Of Lamiaceze, Lycopus europceus is found in a few places, as
is also Calamintha clinopodium; Mentha piperita grows on
Whitbarrow ; M. sativa is not uncommon throughout the
district ; Scuttellaria minor occurs in some of the bogs.
Of Boraginaces, Symphytum officinale is not uncommon.
Of Pinguiculacez, Pinguicula vulgaris is very frequent in damp
places; Utricularia vulgaris is also found.
Of Primulacee, Primula farinacea may be found in many moist
meadows: it is abundant on Wansfell, and will be seen when —
ascending the mountain by Stockghyll: Lysimachia vulgaris,
nummularia and memorum are common, the two former by the
side of the lake.
Of VPlantaginacee, Plantago, media is common near Kendal and
on Whitbarrow; Littorella lacustris covers the margins and
bottom of the lake with a perennial verdure.
Of Polygonacex, Polygonum bistorta is common and very orna-
mental in low meadows; Oxyria reniformis is found in Long-
sleddale and elsewhere.
FLOWERING PLANTS. 2538
Of Thymelacew, Daphne laureola and mezereum have been found
in Rayrigg and Graythwaite woods.
Of Empetracez, Empetrum nigrum grows on the higher fells.
Of Amentiferee, Carpinus betulus is not uncommon, but probably
not indigenous; Salix pantandra occurs in many places; S.
fragilis, alba, viminalis, caprea, and aurita are common: but we
are not sufficiently acquainted with this genus to mention all
the species found here.
Of Orchidacez, Listera ovata is common, and L. cordata is found
on Helvellyn; L. nidusavis is rare; Gymmnadenia canopsea and
Habenara bifolia are very common ; Cypripedium calceolus has
been found on Whitbarrow ; and Epipactis latifolia, palustris
and ensifolia also grow there.
Of Amaryllidacez, Narcissus pseudo-narcissus is most abundant,
and in early spring makes many a bank and woody glen yellow
with its numerous flowers.
Of Liliacece, Allium carinatum is found in one locality; H.
ursinum is very common; H. schcnoprasum may be found on
Cartmel Fell; Convallaria majalis grows on some of the islands,
but is become scarce from too frequent depredations ; in Raun-
cey woods, about three miles below Newby Bridge, this plant is
most abundant and fine, covering some acres of ground; here
also may be found the Fly orchis; C. multiflora abounds in
Graythwaite woods, about two miles north of Newby Bridge.
Of Triliacece, Paris quadrifolia is found in many of the shady woods.
Of Alismacece, Alisma pluntago and ranunculoides are plentiful in
the lake.
Of Fluviales, Potomogeton prelongus is found in many parts of
Windermere ; P. perfoliatus and heterophyllus are very common.
Of Juncacee, Juncus glancus grows on Whitbarrow, and J.
triglumus on Fairfield.
Of Cyperacee, Eriophorum vaginatum is frequent in mountain
bogs ; Carox dioica, ovalis, riparia, pulicaris, curta, remota,
stricta, prcecox,’ vesicarta, and ampullacea are common; C.
levigata, and sylvatica are found in some places.
Of Gramina, Avena pubescens and flavescens, are common ; Fes-
254 FERNS.
tuca ovina var. vivipara is found; Bromus, giganteus is very
frequent; B. asper and Sesleria ceerulea grow on Whitbarrow ;
Triticum canium may be seen in many places; and Melica
nutans is found in some moist woods.
OF THE FERNS,
Caterach officinarum occurs on some walls, but is abundant and
indigenous on Whitbarrow.
Polypodium vulgare grows very luxuriantly, some varieties, such
as Semi la cerum and auritum have also been found.
Polypodium phegopteris is more than usually common in this
district, and may be found in many woods and often by the
road sides; P. dryopteris is not quite so frequent, but by no
means uncommon in similar situations: it is very abundant in
the woods of Furness Fells.
Polypodium calcareum is common on Whitbarrow.
Allosorus crispus is not rare in stone walls or rocks, and among
loose stones, generally in high situations.
Cystopteris fragilis is very fine in some situations, but it is not
abundant here ; a form called interrapta has also been found.
Polystichum lonchitis has been found; P. aculeatum is common by
rivulets through mountain woods and coppices, and its varieties
lobatum and lonchitoides ; P. angulare is less common, but may
be found in many warm shady ghylls and groves growing very
luxuriantly.
Lastrea oreopteris is very common; the different forms of L. dila-
tata abound ; the variety called by Mr. Newman L. collina, is
rare; L. Spinu losa is to be found in many wet woods, also in
some open bogs; L. remota (Moore) has been found at Win-
dermere; L. recurva occurs in a few places.
Athyrium felix-femina var rhceticum is not uncommon.
Asplenium viride is found on some of the mountain screes, and is
very abundant on Whitbarrow; A. Trichomanes, Adiantum-
nigrum and ruta-muria are common, and A. marinum is found
on Meathop, near Witherslack ; A. Germanicum has been found
in two localities.
MOSSES. Pa)
Schol i Q i i
opendrium vulgare grows very fine in some sheltered sit-
uations,
Blechnum boreale is common everywhere.
Hymenophyllum Wilsoni is found in many dark fissures in the
rocks in high wooded fells, generally near a stream.
Osmunda regalis is common and fine.
Botrychium lunaria is pretty frequent on high mountain heaths.
Ophioglosum vulgatum is very scarce.
In giving an account of the Ferns of Windermere, the import-
ant discoveryof Woodsia Ilvensis in Westmorland, although not in
the immediate neighbourhood of Windermere, ought to be men-
tioned. This rare fern was found by Mr. Huddart, the nursery-
man late of Waterloo Gardens, immediately opposite Bowness, where
roots of it may be obtained, and also of many other British Ferns.
All the British Crus Mosszs are found near Windermere.
Lycopodium clavatum grows on most of the higher fells; L.
annotium has been found in Langdale; L. inundatum is not
unfrequent on the margins of mountain tarns; L. alpinum
grows on many heathy fell-sides; L. selago in similar situations ;
and L. selaginoides is common in rivulets in high situations.
Isoetes laustris is abundant in all parts of the lake, but rather
difficult to find, because it is nearly always in deep water.
Equisetum plaustre var polystachyon is the only uncommon
Horsetail which has hitherto been found here.
The common Mosses are abundant, but some species may be
found which are very scarce in Great Britain, and are only seen in
some alpine or sub-alpine districts. The Muscologist will be
delighted with this tribe of plants, their luxuriance in some
situations is truly wonderful. In the following list the species
mentioned have been found in fruit, excepting in those cases in
which it is specified that they have been found in the barren
state only. Some of the species enumerated are not uncommon in
mountainous countries, others are rare or critical species.
Andrecea alpina, rupestris ; Rothii on Red Screes, Ill Bell, &.
Weissia verticillata, Whitbarrow.
256 ras MOSSES.
Rhabdoweissia denticulata, Furness Fells, Grasmere Fells, and
other rocks. *
_ Gymnostomum rupestre, wet rocks, Helvellyn; G. micros nas
Millerground, Windermere.
Blindia acuta, Windermere.
Dicranum polycarpum, Red Screes; D. Squarrosum, Dunmail
Raise; D. rufescens, Calgarth, Windermere.
Distichium capillaceum, Ill Bell, Helvellyn, &c.
Didymoden cylindricus, Troutbeck Park, Cook’s House.
Trichostomum homomallum, Calgarth, Windermere.
Tortula tortuosa, aloides ambigua, Whitbarrow.
Encalypta ciliata, Fairfield, Helvellyn, &c.
Hedwigia ciliata, common on rocks and walls.
Grimmia Doniana, on rocks and walls, in high situations; G.
spiralis and torta, below Red Screes, Kirkstone, not in fruit.
Racomitrium aciculare, caneescens, fasciculare and lanuginosum,
commorr on rocks and walls.
Ptychomitrium polyphyllum, common.
Orthotrichum stramineum, Lyellii and crispulum, common; O.
rupincola, on walls by Mardale and Haweswater.
Zygodon Mougecttii, in crevices of rocks, without fruit, Kirk-
stone; Z. viridissimus, on ash trees, near Windermere College
and elsewhere.
Leucodon sciurodes, near St. Mary’s Church, Windermere.
Diphyscium foliosium, Ill Bell, on rocks and crevices of rocks,
Helvellyn, Rydal Park.
Pogonatum alpinum, Ill Bell, Fairfield, &c; P. urnigerum,
common.
Bryum crudum, polymorphum, elongatum, not rare on the
mountains; B. Wahlenbergii, in mountain rills; B. acumina-
tum, on the eastern precipices of Fairfield, between the summit
of Rydal Head; B. alpinum, common, not barren ; B, Ludwigii,
on wet rocks, Glaramara, not in fruit; B. uliginosum, in a
branch of the Wythburn Beck, High Raise; B. pallens, Ill
Bell: B. julaceum, mountain rills, fruiting abundantly on
Kirkstone Pass, in Wythburn Beck, and on II Bell; B. sub-
MOSSES. 25a
globosum, Helvellyn; B. Zierrii, in crevices of rocks and on
the ground, Red Screes, Rydal Park, and elsewhere.
Mnium serratum, Fairfield, Helvellyn, &c.
Funaria Mihlenbergii, Whitbarrow.
Physcomitrium ericetorum, Windermere.
Bartramia, halleriana, on shaded rocks; B. arcuata, near Storrs,
Windermere, bearing fruit sparingly, abundant at Lodore.
Oedipodium griffithianum, Fairfield, Helvellyn, Red Screes, Hill
Bell, &e.
Anectangium compactum, Red Screes, &e.
Antitrichia curtipendula, abundant in fruit gear Storrs, Winder-
mere, and elsewhere.
Anomodon viticulosus, Whitbarrow, Kendal.
Pterogonium gracile, rocks and walls.
Climacium dendroides, Derwent Water.
Hypnum Schreeberi, in fruit near Storrs, Windermere; H. um-
bratum, near Keswick; H. brevirostre, common in woods; H.
squarrosum, not rare in fruit; H. crista-castrensis, Troutbeck
Park by the road over Kirkstone, Dow Crag, Mardale, Fairfield,
Borrowdale; H. resupinatum, not rare; H. sylvaticum, com-
* mon; H. succulentum, Black Beck, near Storrs, Windermere ;
H. rugosum, on Whitbarrow; H. Flagellare, in rocky streams,
Stockghyll.
R
258 | BOTANY.
CUMBERLAND.’
The Lake District, and the margin of comparatively level land |
extending to the Cumberland shore, affords such a scope for the
natural production of plants as few of the English counties
possess.
The great diversity of altitude,* and consequent variety of
climate; the numer@ts and extreme changes of mineral and vege-
table soils; the complete circuit of aspect occasioned by the
multiplicity and varied character of its hills and dales; the perfect
exposure to the sea-breezes in some parts, and the exclusion from
them in others; and the very different degrees of moisture to
which the district is subject, varying from nearly 163 inches} of
rain-fall per annum in one or two of the mountain vales to only
about 24: inchest in some of the lowland levels, accommodate the
growth of a great variety of the British Flora —the product of
almost every locality between extreme anglo-alpine and the verge
of the sea. ..
It is true that agricultural enterprise is quietly and gradually,
but surely diminishing the numbers of the species; and perhaps
the monopolising avarice of professed collectors§ may aid the
destructive progress not a little, even to the total extermination —
of some plants. Still, such a range of variety is found between
the littoral and alpine extremes of West Cumberland as may
fairly gratify the wishes of the true botanist.
* Scawfell Pike, the highest land in the county, is 3160 feet above the level
of the sea, —-Mr. OTLEY.
+ At Borrowdale, per Dr. Miller. ¢ Harraby, near Carlisle.
§ Only a year or two ago, one of this class being told of the habitat of the
rare Grammitis Ceterach, went and picked out of the wall in which it grew,
with the point of a knife, every plant! Fortunately, some seeds had been
deposited, and they have restored the treasure.
BOTANY OF CUMBERLAND. 259
It must be understood that these remarks, and the following
list of plants and localities, relate almost exclusively to the Cum-
berland limits of the district; and that the botanical resources of
that district have been tolerably well explored by the writer for a
lengthened period. His endeavours have also been aided by
several friends (whose names are quoted); but it is still possible
that some of the floral treasures my have been overlooked, or may
yet remain undiscovered. Those will be but few, and of course
valuable when their localities become known.
Many common plants are omitted from the list, under the im-
pression that what is open to every one’s eye needs no record;
and numerous localities are also left out as redundant.
Perhaps no district, of the same limited extent, furnishes a
more numerous assemblage of Cryptogamic plants ; — that least
explored but very beautiful department, and which may be not
inappropriately called winter-botany.
A great proportion of the singular system of blooming peculiar
to this class is developed at the season when most other vegetation
is at rest, and therefore uninteresting ; here then may the zealous
botanical tourist still continue his study with as much ardour as in
the summer; and derive pleasure and edification from the con-
templation of the various gay or modest tints of those minute
works of the Creator, when the casual observer will find nothing
to attract his attention from the general dreariness of a wintry
landscape.
Those who would acquaint themselves with the Mosses and
Lichens of the lake and mountain district, will need some degree
of perseverance and swre-footedness in exploring the dark ravines
and cavernous fissures of the moist and slippery rocks, and of the
gloomy woods where these delight to grow ; and will meet with
perhaps the greatest variety, and those in the highest perfection,
where the sun shines seldomest and the rain falls oftenest amongst
them. And it should be remembered that no satisfactory pro-
gress can be made in collecting and distinguishing the crypto-
gamia when the plants are shrivelled by drought.
No little energy will be requisite, also, to hunt out the lichens
1B
260 BOTANY OF CUMBERLAND. —
—some of which are found inhabiting almost every rood of un-
disturbed ground from the verge of the ocean, to the storm-beaten
suminits of the highest mountains. And last, not least, very
considerable patience is necessary to duly investigate and decipher
the microscopic stamp of family, so minutely but distinctly im-
pressed upon every specific member of the whole tribe of both
mosses and lichens; and a great many are too small to be accu-
rately determined by the naked eye. But to the enthusiast in
botany, the pleasing excitement of the pursuit, and the gratifi-
cation of the capture, well reward the fatigues of the search. ~
The subjoined list follows the order and nomenclature of Mac-
gillivray’s hand-book, to save the time required to acapt it to the
more recent alterations.
Salicornia herbacea, Ravenglass, Workington; S. procumbens,
Workington north shore.
Hippurus vulgaris, Dub mill.
Zostera marina, Bootle shore, brought up by the tide.
Chara flexilis, Whillimoor; C. aspera, Harras Moor.
Callitriche verna, Whinlatter ; C. pedunculata, Ennerdale.
Clreza alpina, Barrow side; C. lutetiana, Keswick.
Veronica Anagallis, St. Bees and Ellen; V. scutellata, Ulloc
Moss; V. montana, Walla Crag; V. hederifolia, Distington,
Workington; V. Beccabunga, common,
Pinguicula vulgaris, common in bogs.
Utricularia minor, Shoulthwaite Moss, Eskmeals.
Lycopus europceus, Ribton Hall, Petersburg, Drigg Moor,
Lemna minor, ponds in Whillimoor.
Fedia olitoria Moresby Hall; F, dentata, Frizington.
Iris pseudacorus, common,
Scirpus lacustris, Loweswater Lake; S, setaceous, Ennerdale; S.
maritimus, (Workington, Mr, Tweddle); S. sylvaticus, banks
of the Marron.
Eleocharis ccespitosus, Murton Moss; E. pauciflorus, Murton
Moss; E. fluitans, Congra Moss in Lamplugh; E. palustris,
Loweswater Lake; E. multicaulis, Ennerdale Lake; E. acicu-
laris, Egremont.
BOTANY OF CUMBERLAND. 261
Eriophorum vaginatum, common in bogs; E. angustifolium,
Calder Ghylls and Edge Tarn; E. polystachion, Brigham
Moss.
Catabrosa acquatica, Coulderton Shore — scarce — perhaps ex-
tinct.
Arundo Phragmites, River Derwent; A. calamagrotis, River
Derwent ; A. arenaria, sea shore, Coulderton.
Rotbollia incurvata, Skate Dubs, Workington, (Mr. Tweddle).
Hordeum murinum, Flimby; H. maritimum, Coulderton.
Triticum junceum, Braystones.
Asperula odorata, Lodore Fall.
Galium cruciatum, Lamplugh, &c.; G. palustre, Brackenthwaite,
Lodore; G. saxatile, St. John’s vale; G. Mollugo, Crofton
Hall, Pardshaw, &c.; G. verum, Tallantire, Lamplugh, Lodore ;
G. boreale, Derwent Lake shores, and river Irthing ; G. aparine,
common,
Plantago major, Arlecdon; P. media, Arlecdon and Egremont ;
P. maritima, Moota, Flimby and Gillerthwaite ; P. Coronopus,
shore at Flimby, Ravenglass, &c.
Parietaria officinalis, Torpenhow Church, Crookdake Hall.
Ruppia maritima, Cloffocks, (Mr. Tweddle).
Alchemilla alpina, Borrowdale Hause and Helvellyn; Alchemilla
vulgaris, common; A. arvensis, common.
Potamogeton natans, common; P. perfoliatus, Bassenthwaite
Lake: P. densus, river Ellen; P. lanceolatus, common; P.
crispus, river Derwent; P. gramincus, Harras Moor.
Radiola Millegrana, var. maritima, Ehenside, (Mr. G. Chambers).
Lithospermum officinale, Mosser and Westward Varks; L. arvense,
Stanger; L. maritimum, Bootle Shore and Workington.
Anchusa sempervirens, Gosforth, Sandwith.
Cynoglossum officinale, Flimby.
Lycopsis arvensis, St. Bees.
Primula veris, Irthington; (red variety), Egremont Clints; P.
farinosa, Wanthwaite Mill, Caldbeck, and a dark red variety
near Ireby-low.
Menyanthes trifoliata, common near the lakes.
rR 3
262 BOTANY OF CUMBERLAND.
Lysimachia vulgaris, Keswick, Ennerdale, Lorton; L. nemorum,
Castlehead Wood and Lamplugh.
Anagallis cerulea, Hensingham Toll-bar; A. arvensis, common ;
A. tenella, Drigg Moor.
Convolvulus arvensis, Fitz Toll-bar (Mr. Tweddle) ; C. Soldanella,
Shore at Coulderton and Harrington.
Campanula latifolia; Isel, Lamplugh.
Jasione montana, common. *
Lobelia Dortmanna, nearly all the lakes.
Viola lutea, Brigham.
Hyoscyamus niger, Cockermouth, Flimby, Harrington.
Atropa Belladonna, once plentiful around Egremont Castle, but
now only retained in a few gardens there.
Solanum Dulcamara, St. John’s vale, Setmurthy, Wasdale.
Erythroea Centaurium, Bootle, Distington, and a pure white
variety in Loweswater.
Samolus Valerandi, Coulderton Shore.
Lonicera Caprifolium, Lorton Hall, (Mr. Tweddle) ; L. Xylosteum,
Workington Park, (Mr. Tweddle) — probably both intro-
duced.
Rhamuus frangula, Ullock Moss, Keswick Cass.
Kuonymus europeeus, Lodore Woods.
Ribes rubrum, banks of the Derwent; R. nigrum, ditto; R
Grossularia, limestone rocks at Sunderland.
Glaux maritima, Ravenglass, St. Bees.
Salsola kali, Coulderton ; 8. fruticosa, Ravenglass.
Gentiana Amorella, Tallantire Hill; G. campestris, Tallantire
Hill, Workington Warren.
Eryngium maritimum, common along the sea shores.
Hydrocotyle vulgaris, common in bogs.
Sanicula europea, Wythop Woods, &e.
Torilis nodosa, Bewaldeth — scarce.
Anthriscus vulgaris, Workington Bridge.
Myrrhis odorata, banks of the Ehen, &c,
Cheerophyllym sylvestris, Gillfoot and Whicham.
Daucus carota, Ravenglass,
ee se Ce See
~ t
BOTANY OF CUMBERLAND. 263
Sium angustifolium, Drigg Hawes; S§. nodiflorum, Gill, near St.
Bees; S. repens, Naddale; S. verticillatum, Naddale; S. inun-
datum, Loweswater Lake.
Crithmum maritimum, St. Bees rocks.
Apium graveolens, Workington Marsh, Kirkbride.
Imperatoria Ostruthium, Gilsland Woods.
Meum athamanticum, Fell End in Ennerdale, (Dr. Lawson).
Pimpinella dioica, Tallantire Hill.
Cnidium Silaus, Seaton, Schoose Farm.
Sambucus Ebulus, Brackenthwaite, Scalelands, Brigham.
Parnassia palustris, meadows and bogs — not rare.
Statice Armeria, Scawfell and sea shores; S. Limonium, sea shore,
near Bootle, &c.; 8. spathulata, St. Bees Heads, (Mr. Robson).
Drosera rotundifolia, common in bogs; D. longifolia, Borrowdale,
(Mr. Tweddle) ; D. anglica, Helvellyn, (Mr. J. Flintoft).
Narcissus pseudo-narcissus, Duddon Woods, Calder foot.
Allium arenarium, banks of the Derwent, (Mr. Tweddle); A.
vineale, Bearpot, near Workington; A. ursinum, Salter Hall.
Narthecium ossifragum, wet moors.
Juncus filiformis, Crummock and Derwent Lakes; J. ccenosus,
Millom Marsh; J. uliginosus, Workington, (Mr. Tweddle) ; J.
triglumis, Helvellyn, (Mr. J. Flintoft).
Luzula pilosa, common in woods between the mountains and the
sea; L. sylvatica, banks of the Marron; L. campestris, com-
mon on bare heaths; L. congesta, common on bare heaths.
Peplis Portula, Harras Moor, Kinniside Long Moor, Calder Gills.
Oxyria reniformis, Ashness Gill, Honister, Wasdale.
Triglochin palustre, common at the edges of bogs ; T. maritimum,
Cloftocks.
Alisma plantago, Keswick Cass; A. ranunculoides, Eskmeals.
Epilobium hirsutum, river Eden and its tributaries.
Vaccinium Myrtillis, common in woods and in mountains; V.
uliginosum, Wardrew Moss, Moorside Parks; V. vitis idcea,
Skiddaw, Iron Crag, Swinside Fell, &c.; V. oxycoccus, common
in bogs.
~ Acer campestre, Mirehouse Woods.
264 BOTANY OF CUMBERLAND.
Polygonum Bistorta, in meadows, and cultivated as a pot herb; P.
viviparum, Helvellyn, (Mr. J. Flintoft); P. aviculare, Lodore —
road ; P. convolvolus, Bassenthwaite; P. amphibium, Dearham ;
P. Hydropiper, Lodore.
Paris quadrifolia, woods in Lamplugh, Woced Hall.
Andromeda polifolia, Moresby, Drumburgh.
Arbutus uva-ursi, Bootle Fell, (Rev. Isaac Hodgson), Brackenth-
waite, (Mr. Wilson Robinson).
Pyrola rotundifolia, Walla Crag; P. media, Kirkdinton Moors ;
P. secunda, Helvellyn.
Chrysosplenium, oppositifolium, common in wet woods; C. alterni-
folium, Portinsceale.
Saxifraga stellaris, Helvellyn, Iron Crag, &c.; S. nivalis, Legber-
thwaite Gills; 8. oppositofolia, Borrowdale, (Wastwater Screes,
Mr. Robson) ; S. aizoides, Barrow Side, Grasmoor ; 8. granulata,
Harrington Church; S. tridactylites, Moota and Whicham; S.
hypnoides, Armboth Fell, Shoulthwaite.
Scleranthus annuus,, Derwent Side, near Workington, (Mr.
Tweddle).
Silene inflata, Clifton Dean Scales, &c.; S. maritima, Eskmeals,
Brackenthwaite, Grange; S. nutans, Dean, Moorland Close ;
S. acaulis, Borrowdale.
Stellaria nemorum, Burdoswald, Moorside Hall.
Arenaria peploides, Seaton, Fhmby; A. serpyllifolia, Pardshaw
Hall, Cockermouth.
Cotyledon umbilicus, Ehenside, Gosforth.
- Sedum Telephium, Castlehead, Millom; S. villosum, Mosedale ;
S. anglicum, Beckcote; S. acre, St. John’s; §. sexangulare,
Hunday.
Lychis alpina, Brackenthwaite Fells.
Cerastium tetrandum, Cockermouth ; C. alpmum, Helvellyn, (Mr.
J. Flintoft).
Spergula nodosa, Lilly Hall, (Mr. Tweddle).
Lythrum Salicaria, Enner dale, Newlands, Beckermont.
Agrimonia eupatoria, Lamplugh church-yard; A. eupatoria var.
odorata, Lorton, (Mr. W. Robinson).
*)
BOTANY OF CUMBERLAND. 265
Roseda luteola, Flimby, Haglesfield, Workington.
Rosa rubella, Thirlwall; R. spinosissima, plentiful on the coast at
Seascale, &c.; R. Hibernica, Brackenthwaite; R. Sabini, Der-
went Bay; R. villosa, Gilsland; R. tomentosa, Lamplugh; R.
canina, Loweswater ; R. arvensis, Whillimoor. :
Rubus idzus, common; R. cesius, Tallantire; R. corylifolius,
Arlecdon ; R. fruticosus, very common; R. rhamnifolius, Ulpha,
Lowea, Flimby; R. glandulosus, Pardshaw; R. suberectus,
Moorside Hall; R. saxatilis, Gilsland; R. Chamemorus, Styx
Moss.
Fragaria vesca, common ; F. elatior, Wood Hall.
Comarum palustre, common in meadow ditches.
Chelidonium majus, Kirkland, St. Bees, Thornthwaite.
Glaucium luteum, Flimby, Coulderton, Bootle shores.
Meconopsis Cambricum, Naddale, Gilgarran, Ullock.
Nympheea alba, Mockerkin ‘Tarn.
Nuphar lutea, Mockerkin Tarn, Bassenthwaite Lake, Wormanby
Lough.
Aquilegia vulgaris, shore of Bassenthwaite Lake, Dovenby.
Stratiotes aloides, Ennerdale Lake, (Mr. Robson).
Thalictrum minus, Side woods in Ennerdale; T. majus, Derwent
Lake shores; T. alpinum, Great End, Scawfell, (Mz. Robson).
Ranunculus Lingua, Naddale beck, Cardew, (Wastdale and Esk-
dale, Mr. Robson); R. Flammula, common in cold soils ; R.
auricomus, Pardshaw ; R. hirsuta, Drigg, Workington Marsh ;
R. hedraceus, Lamplugh Hall, Pardshaw; R. aquatilis, St.
Bees Moor.
Trollius europceus, Arlecdon church-yard.
Helleborus viridis, Duddon Woods and Plumbland, (Mr. Tweddle.)
Mentha rotundifolia; M. piperita ; M. hirsuta; M. gentilis, near
Sykes in Naddale, in ditch sides.
Glechoma hederacea, Barrow Side.
Galeobdolon luteum, Crosedale.
Ballotta nigra, Workington (Mr. Tweddle).
Leonorus Cardiaca, Workington Row (Mr. Tweddle).
Clinipodiam vulgare, Mockerkin, Papcastle.
266 BOTANY.OF CUMBERLAND.
Thymus Acinos, Low Lingbank, (Nethertown, Mr. Chambers) ;
T. Calmintha, Calva Hall.
Scutellaria galericulata, Dub Beck, Braithwaite Beck; S. minor,
Ladstocks in Thornthwaite.
Rhinanthus crista-galli var. majus, Chapel Bank, St. Helens.
Melampyrum pratense, common in old woods.
Camelina sativa, Workington Mill field (1848, Mr. Tweddle).
Teesdalia nudicaulis, St. John’s, Raven Crag, Thief Gill in Dean.
Cochlearia officinalis, Coulderton Shore, Fleswick Bay ; C. anglica,
Workington Shore; C. greenlandica var. alpine, rills on Hel-
vellyn.
Senebiera coronopus, Seaton, (Mr. Tweddle).
Crambe maritima, Coulderton Shore.
Cakile maritima, Seaton Shore.
Cardamine hirsuta, elevated situations in Whillimoor ; C. praten-
sis, common, sometimes double; C. amara, Moorside Woods,
(Bearpot, Mr. Tweddle).
Arabis stricta, Lamplugh Hall, Pardshaw Hall; A. hirsuta,
Shoulthwaite, Moota.
Turritis glabra, Stainburn, (Mr. Tweddle).
Chieranthus fruticulosus, walls of Scaleby Castle.
Brassica Monensis, Flimby and St. Bees Shore.
Erodium cicutarium, Gosforth ; E. maritimum, St. Bees.
Geranium sylvaticum, St. John’s vale; G. pratense, Lamplugh ;
G. pyrenacium, Yeorton Hall; G. pusillum, Etterby Scar; G.
Robertianum, St. John’s vale; G. lucidum, Lodore Bridge; G.
columbinum, Cockermouth Fitz; G. sanguineum, St. Bees
Shores.
Genista scoparia, Bridekirk; G. tinctoria, Seaton, Tallantire,
Arlecdon ; G. anglica, Drigg, Bootle.
Ulex nana, Gosforth, Lamplugh Fells.
Ononis arvensis, Irton and sea shore.
Anthyllis vulneraria, Maryport Railway.
Lathyrus Nissolia, Irton, in sand ; L. sylvestris, Parton.
Vicia sylvatica, Clifton Woods, Patron; V. angustifolia, Stainburn,
Santon.
BOTANY OF CUMBERLAND. 267
Ervum hirsutum, Loweswater.
Ornithopus perpusillus, Irton Church, St. Bees Moor.
Trifolium officinale, Workington Station, Etterby Scar; T. orni-
thopodiodes, (Workington Warren, Mr. Tweddle); T. arvense,
Flimby ; T. stritum, (St. Bees, Mr. Chambers) ; T. procumbens,
Drigg ; T. filiforme, Gosforth.
Hyericum quadrangulum, Clifton; H. perforatum, Keswick
Woods ; H. humifusum, Lodore Fall; H. hirsutum, Camerton
Clifton; H. pulchrum, Castlehead Woods; H. elodes, Birker
Moor, Aitcha Moss.
Tragopogon pratensis, Bransty, Schoose ; T. porrifolius, Working-
ton.
Prenanthes muralis, Borrowdale, Ulpha,
Apargia autumnalis, Ennerdale.
Hieracium subaudum, Ennerdale, in side woods; H. umbellatum
Kirkland How.
Serratula tinctoria, Embleton, Lorton.
Saussuria alpina, Helvellyn, (Mr. J. Flintoft.)
Carduus acanthoides, Carlisle Castle.
Cnicus heterophyllus, Armboth, Watendlath; C. acaulis, Barrow
Side, Hardknot.
Carlina vulgaris, Ennerdale.
Bidens cernua, Braithwaite, (Cloffocks, Mr. Tweddle); B. tripar-
tita, Keswick Cass, Bootle.
Tanacetum vulgare, Tallantire Hill, Ellercar, near Wigton.
Gnaphalium dioicum, Helvellyn; G. germanicum, Drigg; G,
rectum, base of Helvellyn; G. uliginosum, Arlecdon ; G. mini-
mum, Fieldhead, in Eskdale.
Senecio tenuifolius, Little Broughton; S. saracenicus, Moresby,
Sebergham.
Aster Tripolium, Eskholm, Holborn Hill.
Solidago virgaurea, Scalehill, Bassenthwaite, &e.
Inula helenium, Mosser; I. dysenterica, St. Bees Heads.
Pyrethrum parthenium, Nether Hall.
Matricaria chamomilla, Sylcroft.
Anthemis maritima, Coulderton.
268 BOTANY OF CUMBERLAND.
Centaurea Scabiosa, Eaglesfield.
Orchis bifolia, Whillimoor ; O. mascula, common, Dovenby, &c. ;
O. albida, (Little Broughton, Mr. W. Robinson); O. viridis,
Murton Moss; O. ustulata, Wood Hall.
Gymnadenia conopsea, Wanthwaite, St. John’s, Moota.
Listera ovata, common; L. cordata, Castlerigg Fell, Melbreak;
L. nidus-avis, Flimby Wood, Wood Hall.
Epipactis palustris, Isel; Epipactis latifolia, Dean Scales, Bridge-
foot.
Euphorbia peplus, Egremont, Bootle Station; E. exigua, Bridge-
foot ; E. helioscopia, Gosforth; E. portlandica, Braystones and
Drigg shores ; E. paralia, Haverigg and Harrington shores.
Typha latifolia, Naddals, Crofton, Chapel Sucken, Brayton.
Sparganium ramosum, Portinscale, Naddle; S. simplex, Harras
Moor; S. natans, Shoulthwaite Moss.
Carex dioica, Orgill; C. pulicaria, Hunday ; C. arenaria, Haring-
ton shore; C. vulpina, Yeorton Hall; C. limosa var. irrigua,
Gilsland, rare; C. pallescens, Sellafield; C. flava, Hardknot;
C. extensa, Marron Side; C. stricta, Bullgill Bridge; C. riparia ~
Stubbin Mire; C. vesicaria, Braithwaite; C. ampullacea, Cocker
Side; C. filiformis, (Workington, Mr. Tweddle). Many other
Carices grow in the district.
Littorella lacustris, Derwent Lake, Wythburn.
Urtica urens, Distington, Ullock.
Myriophyllum spicatum, Naddale.
Sagittaria sagittifolia, Braystones Tarn, (Mr. Robson).
Arum maculatum, Wood Hall, Branthwaite.
Quercus Robur, Borrowdale ; Q. sessiflora, common.
Betula alba, var. pendulosa, round Derwent Lake.
Salix herbacea, Skiddaw top. Upwards of thirty species over
West Cumberland.
Empetrum nigrum, moors and bogs.
Myrica gale, common, near the lakes.
Humulus lupulus, Keswick, Egremont.
Tamus communis, Millom, Eskdale.
Rhodiola rosea, Ennerdale Coves and Pillar Fell.
BOTANY OF CUMBERLAND. 269
Taxus baceata, very large trees in Borrowdale.
Atriplex ? laciniata, St. Bees and Harrington shores; A. patula,
Workington north shore.
Isoetes lacustris, Derwent Lake.
Subularia acquatica, Ennerdale Lake (Mr. Robson).
Polypodium vulgare, common; P. Phegoteris, Eskdale, Ulpha,
Braithwaite; P. Dryopteris, Legberthwaite, Dean.
Aspidum oreopteris, Ponsonby Fell, Ulpka; A. lobatum, Flimby,
Walla Crag, Caldbeck; A. angulare, Whicham ; A. spinulosum,
_ Keswick, &c.; A. dilatatum, Keswick, &.
Cystea fragilis, St. Bees Moor, Armathwaite ; C. dentata, Naddale,
Braithwaite, Whillimoor.
Asplenium trichomanes, Carleton, &c.; A. viride, Castlerigg Fell,
river Irthing; A. marinum, St. Bees Head; A. ruta-muraria,
common; A. septentrionale, Borrowdale, near Lorton, (Mr. W
Robinson); A. adiantum nigrum, common.
Scolopendrium vulgare, common in dark ravines; S. var. multifi-
dum, Dearham; S. var. crispum, Catgill Hall.
Grammitis ceterah, Sandwith, Mosser, Gosforth, &c.
Blechnum boreale, common.
Allosurus crispus, Wasdale, Ponsonby, Lamplugh.
Hymenophyllum wilsoni, Scale Force, Ponsonby ; H. tunbridgense,
Ponsonby Hall.
Osmunda regalis, Millon, Irton, Egremont, Ullock Moss, Scale
Hill.
Botrychium lunaria, not rare on dry pastures.
Ophioglossum vulgatum, rather common.
Lycopodium clavatum, common on fells and moors; L. inundatum,
Shoulthwaite,.Wasdale; L. selaginoides, L. Selago, Hardknot,
Helvellyn, &c.; L. annotinum, (near Bowfell, Mr. J. Flintoft) ;
L. alpinum, Sty Head, &c.
Equisetum arvense, common; E. fiuviatile, Flimby, Salter Hall,
Parton rocks; E, sylvaticum, Watendlath, &c.; E. palustre,
(Cold Fell, Mr. Robson); E. variegatum, Gilsland, in the
Irthing.
GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT.
Believing that the great majority of Lake tourists do not wish
or expect to find an elaborate treatise on Geology in the volume
intended merely to point out what is most worthy of inspection
in the district, and the readiest way of reaching it; but feeling
also that a complete Guide book would scarcely merit the title did
it not afford some information upon the marvellous arrangement
and character of the different systems of rock of which this beau-
tiful region is framed, we propose to supply to the tourist a
moderate knowledge of the structure of our hills and valleys with
the least possible expenditure of time and study. It were useless
to speculate upon the long ages that elapsed during the formation
of any one of the vast rocky systems of the district, and impos-
sible to form any conception of the stupendous forces, which,
operating from beneath upon the different stratifications, and so
bestowed upon the region the grand external features that render
it so attractive even to the most superficial observer. We, there-
fore, undertake merely to point out the localities of the various
formations and to notice very shortly their nature and character.
- Tse Stare Rocxs.— Nearly the whole area of the Lake
District proper consists geologically of three great groups of slate
rock, as first pointed out by that self-taught and sound geologist,
the late venerable Jonathan Otley, of Keswick. These vary con-
siderably in form, character, and aspect, but agree, as their name
indicates, in possessing more or less perfectly, the property of
cleavage, or of being split into slate or flags. This attribute,
however, is in many parts, either lost entirely, or greatly impaired
by the influence of Plutonic eruptions, which have forced their
way into, and through the slaty strata so as greatly to modify,
Rite GEOLOGY.
not only their disposition and arrangement, but also their specific
and original structure.
SKIDDAW StaTE. — The oldest of these slate-rock formations
is that called the Skiddaw Slate, which covers a tract of country
extending from the vicinity of Egremont, eastward to that of
Greystoke, and from Keswick northward to Isell and Bewaldeth.
It contains the Lakes Bassenthwaite, Crummock, and Lowes-
water, and forms the mountains of Saddleback and Skiddaw, and
that beautiful range which rises between the vales of the Der-
went and Cocker, including Grasmere, Whiteside, and Grisedale
Pike. The aspect of the country it forms, though not so rugged
as that of the next group of slate rock, sufficiently indicates that
this formation has been subjected to the action of some enormous
elevating and deranging powers, and, though of vast thickness,
the underlying granite has been forced through it in a state of
fusion, and appears at a spot to the eastward of Skiddaw, while
another igneous rock, the Syenite, has been pushed upwards in
such masses as to form the whole bulk of Carrock Fell and of
High Pike. This slate rock is darker in colour and less cleavable
than the more recent formations, and varies considerably in char-
acter and appearance in different situations, especially, as men-
tioned before, where it approaches the igneous rocks by which it —
has been penetrated, when it is said to become metamorphic.
Besides the great main deposit, this rock is found at the south-
west corner of Cumberland, where it forms the mountain Black-
combe; and also in the neighbourhood of Shap. It has always
been held to be destitute of fossil remains, but we understand ~
these have been discovered in it, by Mr. Ruthven, of Kendal, to
whose practical knowledge of this branch of local science we are
indebted for a very valuable Geological Map of the District, to
which we gladly refer our readers.
GREEN SLATE aND PorPHYRY.— Overlying this rock we have
the second, a still more extensive division of the great slaty for-
mations, called Green Slate and Porphyry, and forming, with the
exception of those mentioned, every mountain of importance in
the fell country. This vast group owes its formation to the action
GEOLOGY. 273
of the two opposite elements, fire and water, consisting, as it does,
of Plutonic masses, of various structure, alternated and inter-
blended with large deposits of aqueous rock, possessing more or
less of the properties of slate. The prevailing colour of this slate,
when not affected by igneous influences, is, as its name imports,
chiefly a fine light green. That after, and probably during its
formation, it has undergone a succession of the most inconceivable
convulsions is evident, from the frequent distortion of its stratiti-
cation, the wild and rugged character of its crags and precipices,
and the altitude of some portions over others in the same vicinity.
Scawfell Pikes for instance, rising nearly four thousand feet above
the bed of Wastwater. It is also said to contain few or no fossils,
but abounds supereminently in beautiful and valuable mineral
productions, as will be shewn hereafter. Besides the main deposit
of the green slate to the south, a considerable extent of it occu-
pies the northern border of the older rock, lying between that and
the Carboniferous series.
GRANITE aND SYENITE.— Granite, varying in colour and
composition, is protruded through this rock in large masses in
Eskdale, Wastdale, and Wasdale Crags, near Shap. From these
Granite rocks have been derived most of the erratic bowlders dis-
tributed over the north of England, as far east as the sea-coast,
and as far south as Staffordshire. In Peel Park, at Manchester,
an institution worth visiting, is a large mass of granite bearing an
inscription which purports that it was found in that neighbourhood,
whither it had been brought, by the operations of nature, from
the parent rock near Ravenglass, in Cumberland. It is now
generally agreed that, at a period very remote, when the climate
was much colder, and most of this country was submerged by the
sea, the lake mountains forming a rugged island, these detached
masses of stone were borne away from their native beds enclosed
in ice, and dropped in the situations where they now occur. The
beautiful stone called Syenite, is protruded through the green slate,
as well as through the earlier rock, on both sides of Ennerdale and
extending eastward from that lake to Buttermere.
Tur Coniston Limz Sronz extends along the south-east
Ss
Q274 GEOLOGY.
border of the great middle deposit of slate rock, with many
breaks and twists, from Millom, by Coniston and Windermere,
across High Furness and part of Westmorland, to Shap Fells.
This represents the Coniston Lime Stone, a formation which excites
much interest amongst geologists from being the line of division
between two great systems, and from containing fossil remains in
great abundance and variety, which may be obtained with little
trouble where the rock is exposed above the farm of Dixon Ground,
in Church Coniston. Its numerous “ faults’ and dislocations,
shew that it also has suffered very violent treatment from the
subterranean forces; and these displacements are especially obvi-
ous where it crosses the valleys ; Yewdale, for instance, Winder-
mere and the vale of the Kent.
BratHay Frags. — Superimposed again upon this limestone
is a group of similar course and extent called Coniston, or Brathay
Flags, which consists mainly of a dark, almost black, stone easily
worked into flags. The manner in which the line of cleavage in
most of these rocks runs across the line of deposit is well demon-
strated in this flagstone, and may be studied to advantage in the
roadside wall on the highway from Ambleside to Coniston as it
passes through the enclosures above Brathay, where these lines are
seen very plainly as well as divisions running parallel to the line of
deposit, and containing brilliant incrustations of Iron Pyrites,
which appear upon the edges of the stones used in building the
wall. This rock also preserves a few remains of organic life, Re-
markable displacements of these two formations and sometimes of
the next are exhibited as in Low Furness, Ravenstonedale, and the
vicinity of Ingleton.
Coniston Grit.— Upon this flagstone rests, in its turn, a
formation called Coniston Grit, or Hard Grit, a coarse, hard,
tenacious stone, whose structure has enabled to resist the disturbing
forces more successfully than most of its neighbours. A similar
rock occurs extensively on Howgill Fells and in the country by
Sedbergh, towards Kirkby Lonsdale. It has also been hoisted up.
by enormous disruptions of the carboniferous strata, so as to form
the summits of Ingleborough and other hills in that direction.
GEOLOGY. 275
IrELETH Statz.— The Coniston grit forms the base of the
third great system of Slate rock, called Ireleth, now Bannisdale
or Bretherdale Slate, reaching from Ravenstonedale to Duddon
Sands, and from Morecambe Bay to Windermere Village and
Hawkshead. It consists of masses of dark slate intersected and
broken by bands of quartz and beds of grit andlimestone. Unlike
the other two great slate divisions, it has formed no hills of any
magnitude, though it has been greatly disturbed and contorted,
and contains a considerable part of the lakes of Windermere,
Esthwaite, and Coniston.
12. Red Pike den Bee 35 680 doo aces, 2G00;2) as
13. Coniston Old Man .. Lancashire ... 000 --. 2649:°0 ,,
14, Grisdale Pike ... .. Cumberland... Res .. 26059 ,,
15. Til Bell Westmorland a .. 24902 ,,
16, Harrison Pike in arenas s ae ve 24241 .,,
17. Calf Hill Ne ... Cumberland 6c cee 222059) res
18. Nine Standards... .. Yorkshire ... oat eee 217 SiS ieee
19. Carrock Fell ... «.. Cumberland ccd ee 2173: Ob us
20. High Pike ., a : ae . 2165°6 _,,
21. Black Combe ... es ” vee doe . 19743) ,,
22, Wansfell 600 ... Westmorland S60 set o90;9) es
23. Dent Hill 00 .. Cumberland... ont Boo NBO 55
24. Penrith Beacon... don ry aoc one) G6G0Fee,
25. Lord’s Seat eu 600 th es ee AGKT: 5,
26. Seilly Bank... ten ” see «. 629:8 4;
eA
Lae
TABLE II.
COMPARATIVE TABLE OF LAKES.
*.* In the following table the extreme length and breadth of the several
Lakes is given in miles; the extreme depth, and the height above the sea-
level, in feet. In consulting it, however, it will be well to bear in mind the
monition given on the previous page:
Above
Length. Breadth, Depth. Sea-lev.
. Windermere Westmorland 10 miles. 1 mile, 240 feet. 116 feet
il
2. Ullswater Cumberland
3. Coniston Lake Lancashire my ORD ay AIO a als
4, Bassenthwaite Cumberland 5 a 3 68) ,, 210),
9 ” 1 ” 210 2” 460 ”
6
4
. Derwent Water a 3 pee Messe, yy 1222 ays
3
3
3
3)
6. Crummock Water A 53 Ob) 4,0 2132 ,, 26Cu.5
7, Wast Water 4 yn LGD 5 276° ,, 160-55
8. Hawes Water oH re MOE ye stan ey ey
9. Thirlmere Ay 22be Ob) 5 108) 5 47 Sie,
10. Ennerdale - PES gs ORS SD
11. Esthwaite Lancashire 2 a OH a SO a HD)
12, Grasmere Westmorland 125 , O58 ,, sanity OG eer.
13. Buttermere Cumberland TO ae CORB ey ED Gy PE
14. Rydal Lake Westmorland 06 ,, O36 ,, 54 , 156 ,,
15. Elterwater on O65; 703 .; Sic Speen ass
16. Brothers’ Water Cumberland O28) By ORE ay VE gy c00>
TABLE III.
COMPARATIVE TABLE OF WATERFALLS.
1. Scale Force, near Buttermere, Cumberland, ... 160 feet.
2. Barrow Cascade, two miles from Keswick, 6 abo, LE
3. Lodore Cascade, near Keswick ep seo LOO) =
4, Sour Milk Force, near Buttermere, is Dee 990
5. Colwith Force, five miles from Ambleside, Westmorland, ... 90 ,,
6. Dungeon Ghyll Force, in Langdale, a rt MEO es
7, Airey Force, in Gowbarrow Park, Cumberland, sor CONES
8. Stock Ghyll Force, near Ambleside, Westmorland, ... 70 ,,
9. Rydal Fall, in Rydal Park, p aoe Ko fs
10. Birker Force, in Eskdale, Cumberland, ... 65 ,,
11. Stanley Ghyll, in Eskdale, ” Boa BG,
12, Nunnery Fall, near Kirkoswald, 35 ere Ula
13. Skelwith Force, in the Brathay, Westmorland, ... 20 ,,
il. INDEX.
Kagles, 34, 203
Eagle Crag, 194, 201
Easedale, 78, 128, 240
Ecclerigg, 57
Education in the Dales, 167 .
Egremont, 171
Hlleray 5
Ennerdale, 172, 175, 210, 237
Eskdale, 159, 163, 198
Esk Hause, 162, 199, 209, 240
Esthwaite Lake, 46
Ewesmere, 149
Fairfield, 69, 72, 87
Faw Park, 114
Fell Foot, 161
Ferns, 15, 43, 153, 254
Ferry House, 12, 42
Ferry Nab, ghost story of, 41
Fishing, 197
Floutern Tarn, 174, 177, 237
Flowering Plants, 249
Fludder’s Brow, 199
Fordendale, 234
Fox Ghyll, 84
Fox How, 55, 60, 84
Friar’s Crag, 110
Furness Abbey, 27, 30
Gait’s Tarn, 218
Gatesgarth, 182, 210, 238
Geology, 271
Gillerthwaite, 210, 239
Glaramara, 118
Glencoin, 51
Glenridding, 214
Gough, Charles, 214:
Gowbarrow Park, 148
Grange, Borrowdale, 122
Grasmere Terrace, 64
Grasmere, 66, 78, 241
Grasmoor, 128
Great End, 159
Great Gable, 159, 166, 168
Great Robinson, 126
Great Wood, 111
Greta Hall, 125
Greta Bank, 146
» Force, 165
Grisedale, 212,
“4 Tarn, 54, 213
Guides, 133, 176
Hallin Fell, 229
Halsteads, 149
Hardknot, 163
Harrop Tarn, 235
Harter Fell, 223
Hartley Coleridge, 82
Hartsop, 50, 229, 234:
Hawes Water, 48, 221, 234
Hawkshead, 39
Hawlghyll, 159
Hays Water, 52, 149, 234
Heights of Mountains 282
Helm Crag, 81
Helvellyn, 51, 97, 212, 235
Hemans, Mrs., 19
High Close, 65, 75
High Crag, 126, 174
Highest House, 50
High Stile, 126, 174
High Street, 48
Hogarth, 47
Honister Crag, 118
Ill Bell, 9, 48
Iron Crag, 173
TIsell, 132
Ji een Brown, anecdotes of, 4,
4
Kendal, 233
Kentmere, 48, 226, 233
Kepel Cove Tarn, 215
Keskadale, 126
Keswick, 102, 236
Kidsty Pike, 228, 234
Kirkfell, 168, 174, 210
Kirkstone Pass, 50, 240
Knoll, the, 84
Knott Crag, 146°
Lady’s Rake, 1
Lakes, length, breadth, and |
depth of, 283
INDEX. lll.
Lamplugh Cross, 178
Langdale, 37, 75, 194, 209
os Tarn and Pikes, 197
Lanthwaite Fell, 144
Latrige, 112, 135
Lead Mines, 212
Leathes Water, 98
Legberthwaite (Dale Head) 215
Lever’s Water, 219
Lily of the Valley, 19
Lingmell, 166
Lion and Lamb, 77, 81
Lodore, 123
Longsleddale, 48, 232
Lord Clifford, 101, 146
>» Derwentwater, 106
Lord’s Seat, 131
Lorton Vale, 128
As Terrace & Tarn, 65,75
Lowes Water, 179
Lowther, 222
Low Water Tarn, 218
Lowwood Inn, 19
Lyulph’s Tower, 52
Mardale, 223, 234
Matterdale, 148
Melbreak, 180
Mell Fell, 148
Meteorology, 243
Middlefell, 159
Millbeck, Keswick, 137
Milbeck, Langdale, 195
Miller Brow, 15
Millerground Bay, 7
Mineralogy, 280
Models of the District, 10, 104
Mosedale, 210 :
Mosses, 255
Mountain Outfit, 86, 332
Museum, 105
Nab Sear, 64, 81, 94
Nanbield, 225, 233
Natural Changes, 185
Need Fire, 191
,
Newfield, 155, 239
Newland Haws, 237
Newlands, Vale of, 126
Old Man, 86
Orrest Head, 4:
Overwater, 137
Oxenfell, 37
Passes, 194
Patterdale, 51, 234
Pavey Ark, 219
Pease Ghyll, 165
Penrith, 221
Pillar, 174, 210
Place Fell, 50
Pooley Bridge, 148
Portinscale, 114, 126, 236
Professor Wilson, 13
Quarrymen, 182
Railway Approaches, 1, 29
Railways, introduction of, 190
Rain Guages, 91, 244:
Rannerdale Knot, 179
Red Bank, 76
» Pike, 126, 128, 173
» screes, 69
>» Tarn, 213
Regattas, 20
Revelin, 173
Robert Walker, 155
Roman Road, 45, 228, 234
Rosset Ghyll, 199, 209, 240
Rosthwaite, 118, 184, 236
Rothay River, 20
» Walley 59.
Rushbearing, 58
Rydal Mount, (Wordsworth’s
House,) 64, 83, 94:
Rydal Falls, 83
» Head and Park, 88, 89
» Lake, 65
Saddleback, 138, 140
Santon Bridge, 159
Scale Force, 127, 237
Seales Tarn, 143
Scandale Screes, 50
lV. INDEX.
Scarf Gap, 168, 174, 182, 210,
237
Scawfell, 159, 166, 206, 240
Scott, Sir Walter, 96
Seathwaite, 162, 201
Pr Tarn, 219
Seatoller, 184, 205
Seat Sandal, 212
Shap Abbey, 149
Sharp Edge, 145
Shire Stones, 160
Silver How, 81
Skelghyll, 67
Skelwith Fold & Force, 59, 74
Skiddaw, 102, 132, 133, 236
Slate Quarries, 37, 76, 182,
197, 218
Small Water, 226
Sour Milk Ghyll, 78, 182
Southey, 97
Souter Fell, 140
Spectres, 141
Sprinkling Tarn, 199
Statesmen, 187
Stake Pass, 118, 194, 240
Stanley Ghyll, 157
Station, Scale Hill, 128
Steamers and Fares, 27
Steamboat Trip, 17
Stickle Tarn, 197, 219
Stockghyll, 56, 63
Stockley Bridge, 204
Storm on the fell, 177
» on the hills, 92, 208
Stonethwaite, 194, 201
Stone Walls, 88
Storrs, 12, 27
Strands, 159, 168
Striding Edge, 214, 229
Stybarrow Crag, 51
Sty Head Tarn, 202
», Head Pass, 118, 159, 166
201, 238
Superstitions, 191
Swan Inn, Newby Bridge, 18
Sweden Bridge, 62
Swinside, 114:
Swirrel Edge, 214
Tarns, uses of, 198
Thirlmere, 98
Threlkeld, 101, 146
Tilberthwaite, 36, 219
Tongue Ghyll Force, 213
Torver, 35
Travelling Charges, 24
Trout, 22
Troutbeck, 45, 227
Ullswater, 51, 235
Ulpha Kirk, 153, 239
Ulverston, 29
Vale of Lorton, 128
» of Newlands, 114
» of St. John, 100
Walker, Robert, 155
Wallabarrow Crag, 107, 124
Walla Crag, 111
Walna Scar, 217, 219
Wansfell, 49, 63, 67, 87
Wastdale Head, 166, 203, 239
Wastwater, 33, 128, 159, 164
Watendlath, 117
Waterfalls, height of, 283
Watermillock, 149
Waterspout, 180
Weather, 243
Wetherlam, 219
Whitbarrow, 14
Whinlatter, 129
Wild Flowers, 43, 59, 74, 158
Windermere, Village of, 1, 6
i Lake, 11, 17, 241
Wishing Gate, 81
Woodcutters, anecdote of, 27
Wordsworth, 64, 80, 83, 86
Wray Castle, 19
Wythburn, 98, 215, 235 x
», to Rosthwaite, 103, 235
Yewbarrow, 159, 166, 210
Yewdale, 36, 219
Yews, 386, 129, 205
DPR 6 Rey.
Names of Residents in the houses occuring in the preceding
pages; and of the other principal Inhabitants of the Distroct.
The address is that required by Postal arrangement; and
Windermere — being the head office of the District — should be
inserted at the end of each address to ensure a regular transit
of communications from a distance.
WINDERMERE.
Annesdale.— Miss Preusser.
Bay Villa, Bowness.— O. Burchardt, Esq.
Belfield.— Mrs. Jas. Bryans.
Belle Isle.— J. R. Bridson, Esq.
Belsfield, Bowness.— W. H. Schneider, Esq.
Bingle, The.— William Thornely, Esq.
Birthwaite Lodge,— Mrs. Morewood.
Biscay Lodge.— Mrs. Phillips.
Briery, The.— J. Wybergh, Esq.
Broad Oaks.— John Hutchinson, Esq.
Burnside.— G. A. Aufrére, Esq.
Cleator Lodge.— Mrs. W. Holmes.
College, The.—- G. H. Puckle, M.A., head-master.
Cottage, The.— T. W. Cooper, Hsq.
Craig Brow.— Mrs. Coupland.
Crag How.— Rev. J. Davidson.
Craig, The.— Lord Decies.
Craig Foot.— Mrs. Beck.
Cringlemire.— Jas. Nicholson, Esq.
Crown Hotel, Bowness.— Mr. T. Cloudsdale.
Dovenest.— J. Dettmar, Esq.
Ecclerigg.— R. Luther Watson, Esq.
Elim Grove.— Mr. A. Pattinson, builder.
Elleray.— Arthur H. Heywood, Esq.
Elleray Bank.— Mrs. Cunningham.
Ellerthwaite.— Jas. Thomson, Esq.
Ferney Green.— P. Molyneux, Esq.
Ferry Hotel. Mr. R. Howe.
Grange, The.— Rev. Wm. Bryans.
Green Bank.— Jos. Livesey, Esq., and Mrs. W. Bownass.
Grove House.— J. Fisher, Esq., solicitor.
Haigh, The.— B. A. Irving, Esq.
1s DIRECTORY.
Hazlethwaite.— R. M. Somervell, Esq.
Harrowslack.— Mr. George Goode.
Helm. — Wm. Pritt, Esq.
High Fold, Troutbeck. — Mr. W. Mounsey, registrar.
Highfield, — Edward Banner, Esq.
High Street. — Mr. William Harrison, builder.
Holbeck. — Jas. Wrigley, Esq.
Holbeck Cottage. — Miss Meyer.
Hole Herd. — John Dunlop, Esq.
Holly Hill.— F. Clowes, Esq., surgeon.
Howe, The, Troutbeck. — Admiral Wilson, J.P.
Ibbotsholme. — Samuel Taylor, Esq., J.P.
Ibbotsholme Farm. — S. Taylor, Esq., junr., J.P.
Lake Cottage, Bowness. — Mrs. Stokes.
Lake View Villas. — Geo. T. Edwards, Esq., and Mr. Holland.
Langrigg House School.— Miss Stewart.
Low Wood Hotel. — Mr. R. Logan.
Mortal Man Inn, Jroutbeck. — Mrs, Green.
Mylnbeck. — Captain Pasley, R.N.
North View. — Mrs. Macdougall.
Oakland. — J. W. Palmer, Esq.
Oakthorpe. — A. Hamilton, Esq., M.D.
Old England, Bowness. — Captain Elms.
Orrest Head. — Mrs. Holt.
Post-Office. — Mr. J. Garnett.
Post-Office, Bowness. — Mr. Richard Airey.
Priory, The. — Wm. Carver, Esq.
Rayrigg.— Rev. Fletcher Fleming.
Rectory. — Rev. E. P. Stock, M.A.
Rock Field. — Mrs. Raven.
Rockside. — Rev. T. F. Dixon, curate of St. Mary’s.
Royal Hotel, Bowness. — Mrs. Jas. Scott.
Station-Master. — Mr. Wm. Beckett.
St. Catherine’s. — The Earl of Bradford.
St. Mary’s Abbey. — William Inman, Esq.
St. Mary’s Terrace. — Colonel Kenny, and Mr. Brook.
Storrs. — Rev. Thos. Staniforth.
The Crag, Troutbeck.— Captain Dawson, of the 8th, King’s.
Town End, Zroutbeck. — Mr. George Browne.
Terrace, The. — Mrs. King; Mrs. Scholes; R. Hutchinson, Esq.;
and Mrs. Kay.
Vicarage (St. Mary’s.) — Rev. C. Clayton Lowndes, M.A.
Waterside Cottage, Bowness. — Miss Robinson.
Wansfell. — Thomas Wrigley, Esq.
Windermere Hotel. — Mr. John Rigg.
DIRECTORY. il.
Windermere Bank. — Mrs. Ransome; Mr. R. Hayton; Mr. John
Brockbank. .
Winlass Beck. — Mrs. Jeflray.
Wood, The. — George B. Crewdson, Esq.
Woodlands. — Mr. Jos. Harrison.
AMBLESIDE.
Bank Cottage. — Mrs. J. A. Smith; Miss Kelly.
Beech Cottage. — Mrs. James Newton.
Brathay Bank. — H. Spalding, Esq. »
Brathay Hall. — Giles Redmayne, Esq.
Broadlands. — Mrs. L. A. Claude.
Chapel Cottage. — Rev. W. G. Beardmore.
Church Terrace. — Mr. Thomas Bell, chemist and druggist.
Clappersgate. — Miss Mary Cookson.
Croft Lodge. — Thomas Barlow Jervis, Esq.
Cross Brow. — Mrs. W. Fell.
Ellerhow. — Henry Boyle, Esq.
Field Foot, Loughrigg. — W. D. Crewdson, Esq.
Fox Ghyll. — The Misses Wilson.
Fox How, Lougrhigg. — Mrs. Arnold.
Free Grammar School. — Mr. William Barton, the Crescent.
Gale Bank. — Miss Napier.
Gale Cottage. — Mrs. Jefferson.
Gale House. — Mrs. Pedder.
Gale How. — George Partridge, Esq.
Gale Lodge. — Miss Morse.
Gale Lodge. — Miss Smith.
Glen Brathay. — Rev. Henry Callender, vicar of Brathay.
Glen Rothay, Rydal. — W. Ball, Esq. .
High Bailiff. — Mr. Thomas Mackereth, Loughrigg Terrace.
High Close, Loughrigg. — E. B. W. Balme, Esq.
- Lesketh How. —
Loughrigg Brow. — Rev. Charles D. Bell, M.A., vicar.
Loughrigg Cottage. — Morris Reynolds, Esq.
Loughrigg Holme. — The Misses Quillinan.
Lowfield. — Mrs. Ridgeway.
Low Nook. —
Market Place. — Miss Nicholson; Mrs. Freeman, stationer ;
Mr. J. Fleming, architect; Mr. J. Abbot, coaching agent.
Meadow Bank. — The Misses James.
Miller Bridge, Loughrigg. — Allan Harden, Esq.
Mill Row. — Miss Birbeck.
Neam Wood, Shelwith Bridge. — Arthur Adams, Esq.
IV. DIRECTORY.
Oak Bank.— The Misses Gill.
Old Brathay. —
Parsonage, Rydal.— Rev. John Tatham.
Post-Office, Market Place.— Mr. John Taylor.
Fairfield View.— Rev. T. W. H. France.
Pull Cottage.— Rey. Hull Brown.
Queen’s Hotel.— Mr. John Brown.
Rose Cottage.— Mrs. Latham.
Rothay Bank.— John Crosfield, Esq.
Rothay Cottage.— Robert J. Simpson, Esq.
Rothay Holme.— Lieut-Colonel Watson.
Rydal Hall.— General Hnghes le Fleming.
Rydal Lodge.— W. H. Edward, Esq.
Rydal Mount.—
Salutation Hotel Mr. William Townson.
Scale How.— Mrs. D. Harrison ; Mrs. D. Bolland.
Seathwaite.— Mrs. D. Donaldson.
Seathwaite Rayne.— Mrs. Frith.
Secretary to the Circulating Book Library.—John Crosfield, Esq.,
Rothay Bank.
Secretary to the Gas and Water Company.— Mr. Mackereth,
Loughrigg Terrace.
Secretary to Mechanics’ Institute.— Mr. Jopson, Campbell Cottage.
Solicitor.— Mr. John Nicholson, Church road.
Sub-distributor of Stamps.— Mr. William Ewington.
Surgeons.— James Carter Shepherd, Esg., Market Place; Wm.
Laidlow, Esq., Market Place; Robert Harrison, Esq.,
Fairfield House.
Sweeden Bank.— Wilson Foster, Esq.
The Cottage.— E. H. Clerke, Esq.
The Green.— J. J. Jackson, Esq.
The Knoll.— Miss Harriet Martineau.
The Oaks.— Mrs. Hopkinson.
The Nook.— Miss Dickinson.
Under Mount, Rydal.— Mrs. Smith.
Wanlass How.— Miss Brooks.
Waterhead Cottage.— Miss Mary Ann Scales.
Waterhead Cottage.— Mrs. W. B. Clarke.
Waterhead Cottage.— William Pritt, Esq.
Waterhead Hotel.— Mrs. Backhouse.
Waterhead — John Fletcher, Esq.
Waterhead House.— Captain Bolton.
White Lion Hotel.— Mrs. Rainford
White Moss Cottage.— Mrs. Jaggar.
Willy Hill, Clappersgate.— G. E. Nicholson, Esq.
DIRECTORY
GRASMERE.
Allan Bank.— Robert Goff, Esq.
Brig Allan.— H. Newsham, Esq.
Dale Lodge.— Lady Farquhar.
Eller Close.— Miss Orred.
Forest Side.— Mr. W. Younge.
Glenthorne.— Rev. Edward Jefferies, M.A., rector.
Helm Side.— Mrs. Arnold.
Hollins.—
Howfoot.— Mrs. Cookson.
Hunting Stile— William Ross, Esq.
Kellbarrow.— Rev. J. H. Sumner.
Lancrigg.— Lady Richardson.
Meadow Brow.— Miss B, Arnold.
Moss Side.— Mr. J. F. Green.
Pavement End.— J. Green, Esq.
Post-Office.— Mr. J. C. Hodgson.
Prince of Wales’ Lake Hotel.— Mr. E. Brown.
Rectory.— Mrs. G. Pettitt.
Red Lion Hotel.— Mr. Hudson.
Rose Cottage.— Mrs. Fleming.
Rothay Bank.— T. Marshall, Esq.
Rothay Lodge.— T. Sandford, Esq.
Ryeland.— Mrs. Kendall.
Silver How.— Miss Agar.
St. Michael’s Nook.— Miss Broadley.
St. Oswald’s.— Miss Gibson.
Swan Hotel.— Mr. William Scott.
Woolands Craig.— Captain Selwyn, R.N.
Wood Close.— John P. Halton, Esq.
Wray.— John Philipps, Esq., and John Philipps, Esq., jun.
HAWKSHEAD AND SAWREY.
Beckside Cottage.— Mr. Jonathan Satterthwaite.
Belmont.— Mrs. Whittaker.
Esthwaite Mount.— Mrs. Drury.
Esthwaite How, Sawrey.— Mrs. Alcock.
Esthwaite Lodge.— Miss Aglionby.
Field Head.— Jonathan Thompson, Esq.
Gill Bank.— Mrs. Fildes.
Grammar School.— Rev. H. T. Baines.
Green Bank.— William Towers, Esq.
Green End.— Mrs. Hodgson,
Grizedale Hall.— Montague Ainslie, Esq.
Vi. DIRECTORY.
How End, Sawrey. — Mrs. Garnett
Ivy House. — Augustus Johnstone, Esq., M.D.
Keengreen. — Edmund Lodge, Esq.
Lakefield. — J. R. Ogden, Esq., J.P.
Lakebank, — Mrs. Wilcock.
Mount Cottage, Sawrey.— Mrs. T. B. Ogden.
New Inn, Sawrey. — Mrs. Hartley.
Old Hall. — Mrs. Rawlinson.
Post-Office, Hawkshead. — Mr. C. Watson.
Post-Office, Sawrey. — Mr. J. Dixon.
Red Lion Inn. — Mr. F. Taylor.
Rogerground. — Thomas Bowman, Hsq., J.P.
Sawrey Cottage. — T. L. Aspland, Esq.
Sawrey House. — Michael Pickard, Esq.
Sawrey Knotts. — Robert S. Sowler, Esq., Q.C.
Summerhill Cottage. — James Cowper, Esq.
Tower Bank, Sawrey.— Joseph Walker, Esq.
Vicarage, Hawkshead. — Rev. Richard Greenall.
Violet Bank. — William Hopes Heelis, Esq.
Walkerground. — Miss Park.
Yewfield. — James Swainson Cowper, Esq.
CONISTON.
Black Bull Inn. — Mr. Shuttleworth.
Brantwood. — G. W. Kitchin, Esq., M.A.
Coniston Bank. — Major Harrison.
Coniston Hall. — Mr. Isaac Irving.
Crown Hotel. — Mr. James Dove.
Far End. — Mr. Edward Coward, timber merchant, &c.
Holly How. — William Barratt, Esq.
Holywath. — Joseph Barratt, Esq.
Lane Head. — R. T. Bywater, Esq., surgeon.
Mandall, Thomas, slate merchant.
Monk Coniston Park. — James Garth Marshall, Esq.
Parsonage. — Rey. T. Tolming.
Post-Office. — Mr. R. Bownass.
Station-Master. — Mr. Alexander Gracie.
Stephenson, James, slate merchant.
Stang End. — Mr. Thomas Parker, slate merchant.
Tent Lodge. — Miss Romney.
Tent Cottage. — Mr. T. Evennett, agent for J. G. Marshall, Esq,
Thwaite Cottage. — Miss Rigby.
Thwaite House. — The Misses Beever.
Waterhead Hotel. — Mrs, Atkinson.
DIRECTORY. Vil.
KESWICK.
Acorn House.— The Misses Hunton.
Acorn Cottage— William Denton, Esq.
Armathwaite Hall.— Bowstead, Esq.
Applethwaite.— Mr. J. Harrison, Gale Cottage.
Barrow House.— 8. Z. Langton, Esq., J.P.
Bassenthwaite.— Rev. J. R. Shurlock; Jno. Rooke, Esq. ; Ed.
Boys, Esq.; W. Rathbone, Esq. ; and ——Bowstead, Esq.
Borrowdale.— Rev. Geo. Newby ; T. Simpson, Esq.
Braithwaite Lodge.— Mr. John Monkhouse.
Brow Top.— W. Sherwin, Esq. ; Miss Younghusband; G. Orme-
rod, Esq.
Brown, R., Esq., surgeon.
Buttermere.— Rev. J. M. Woodmason ; — Reed, Esq.
Chestnut Hill.— The Misses Taylor, and E. J. Grayson, Esq. ;
Jas. Dare, Esq.
Coaching Agent.— Mr. Thomas Fallows.
Deer Close.— R. E. Marshall, Esq.
Derwentwater Hotel.— Mrs. Ann Bell.
Derwentwater Place.— The Misses Denton.
Derwentwater Bay.— Major-General Sir John Woodford, K.C.B.
Derwent Isle.— H. C. Marshall, Esq.
Derwent Lodge.— Mrs. Favell.
Derwent Hill.— Mrs. Turner.
Derwent Bank.— D. R. Lietch, Esq.
Fawe Park.— James Bell, Esq.
Fieldside.— Mrs. Joshua Stanger.
Grange, The.—Miss Heathcote; Mr. T. Threlkeld; Mrs. Wilson.
Greta Bank.— J. J. Spedding, Esq.
Greta Hall.— C. W. Rothery, Esq.
Greta Lodge.— Robert Smithwick, Esq.
Greta Grove.— Mr. Thompson.
H. Cattle, Esq., secretary to the C., K., and P. Railway.
Hawthorn Cottage.— E. Cocken, Esq.
Hollies, The.— Major Green Thompson.
J. Tweddle, Esq., surgeon.
King’s Arms Hotel.— Mr, Scott.
Lairbeck.— Mrs. Horan.
Lairthwaite.— Mrs. James Stanger.
Lodore Hotel.— Mr. B. Armstrong.
Little Braithwaite.— Mr. B. Plummer.
Lyzzick Hall.— H. C. Marshall, Esq.
Millbeck.— A. Dover, Esq.
Millfield.— The Misses Holmes.
viil. DIRECTORY.
Mirehouse.— T. S. Spedding, Esq.
Musewm.— Mrs. Crosthwaite.
Myrtle Grove.— Miss Dover.
Oakfield.— T. R. Fothergill, Esq.
Ormathiwaite.— Lieut-Colonel Wake, and Carlisle Wake, Esq.
Portinscale.— The Misses Brown; S. Ladyman.
Post-Office and Bank.— Mr. J. Fisher Crosthwaite.
Powe House, Portinscale.— John Birkett, Esq.
Powter Howe.—
Queen’s Hotel.— Mr. E. E. Poole.
Railway Hotel.— Mr. Edwin Hinks, manager.
R. Broach, Esq., solicitor, clerk to the magistrates.
Rose Trees.— Major Greenall.
Royal Oak Hotel.— Mr. John Armstrong.
Riddings.— John Crozier, Esq.
Shorley Croft.— O, G. Rumney, Esq., M.D.
Skiddaw Lodge.— Miss Rooke; Miss Johnson and brothers ;
the Misses Main.
Skiddaw Cottage.— E. Downes, Esq.
Spring Bank.— Isaac Gate. Esq., J.P.
St. John’s Parsonage.— Rev. T. D. H. Battersby.
St. John-in-the-Vale.— Rev. John Taylor.
Thornthwaite.— Rev. H. M. Short, M.A.; J. Pearson, Esq., M.D.
Threlkeld.— Rev. Charles Grant.
Underscar.— William Oxley, Esq.
Vicarage, The.— Rev. W. J. Pollock, M.A.
CunsEY (via Newby Bridge.)\— Mr. J. Swainson; T. Grafton,
Esq. ; Mr. Tomlinson.
Date Heap Hatt.— T. L. Stanger Leathes, Esq.
GRAYTHWAITE Hatt (via Newby Bridge.) — J. D. Sandys, Esq.
Fett Foot, Newby Bridge (via Lancaster).— Capt. Ridehalgh.
Furness ABBEY Hoten (via Lancaster) Mr, Scoones, managers
Kine’s Heap Inn, Dale Head.— Mr. John Robinson.
Low GRAYTHWAITE Hatt (via Newby Bridge.) —~Capt. Rawlinson
Nae’s Huan Inn, Wythburn.— Mrs. Hawkrigg.
Newsy Brings Horen (via Lancaster).— Mrs, White.
PATTERDALE Hatt (via Penrith.)— William Marshall, Esq,
PaTTERDALE Inn (THE QuEEN’s.)— Mr. R. Bownass.
PootEy BripGe Inn (Penrith.)— Mr, John Barrow.
SATTERTHWAITE (via Newby Bridge.)— Rev. H. Baines; Mr, H.
Towers; Mr. W. Walker.
Srranps Inn (via Whitehaven.)— Mr. Smith,
TowNnHEAD, Newby Bridge.— Rev. — Townley.
Uxniswater Hore (via Penrith.)— Mr. Robert Bownass.
RECENTLY PUBLISHED
‘BY
J. GARNETT, WINDERMERE.
THE LAKES IN SUNSHINE: being Photographic and
other Pictures of the Lake District of Westmorland and North
Lancashire. With Letterpress Description by Jas. Payn. 21s.
The CUMBERLAND volume will be ready at Christmas.
THE ENGLISH LAKES. By Harriet Martineau. Illus-
trated with a series of large Steel Engravings and Wood-Cuts;
also, a Geological Map of the District and Outline Views of the
Mountain ranges. Demy 4to, gilt, 12s,
MARTINEAU’S COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE ENGLISH
LAKES. Illustrated with Steel Engravings, Maps, &c.; 3s. 6d.
And, with articles on the Geology, Botany, Miueralogy, Meteor-
ology, &c., of the district ; 5s.
FURNESS ABBEY AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. By
James Payn. Small 4to. Illustrated with 13 Photographs, and
a Ground-Plan of the Ruins. Handsomely bound in cloth, gilt,
10s. 6d. :
ONE SHILLING SERIES. Uniform, and each with Map
and Illustrations.
RAMBLES ROUND CONISTON. By A. C. Gibson.
KESWICK and its Environs. By Harriet Martineau.
FURNESS ABBEY andits neighbourhood. By James Payn.
GUIDE TO THE ENGLISH LAKES By James Payn.
GRANGE AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.
li. J. GARNETT’S PUBLICATIONS.
A GUIDE TO THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT, intended
principally for the use of PEDESTRIANS. By a Cambridge Man.
2s. 6d. With Maps and Illustrations. Second Edition, enlarged.
FERNS OF THE LAKE COUNTRY. By W. J. Linton.
With numerous Illustrations. Neat cloth, 2s. 6d.
ASCENTS AND PASSES in the Lake District of England :
Being a new Pedestrian and General Guide to the District. By
Herman Prior, M.A., Late Scholar of Trinity College, Oxford, &
With Maps, 5s.
THE EXCURSIONIST’S GUIDE TO WINDER MERE
and its Vicinity. With Map and Illustrations. One Penny.
SAIL ON WINDER MERE. A neat little Guide for Steam-
boat Passengers, &c. 4d.
LEAVES FROM LAKELAND. By Jas. Payn. Cloth, 1s.6d.
Paper Cover, 1s. A series of Stories and Legends of the Lakes.
FERNS FROM THE LAKES. A beautiful and scientific
souvenir, with specimens carefully mounted and enclosed in taste-
ful cover. 5s. and 2s. 6d.
NATURAL HISTORY IN STORIES. By M.S. C. Illus-
trated from drawings by Harrison Weir. New Edition; edited
by T. L. Aspland. 2s. 6d.
SKETCHES FROM LIFE. By Harriet Martineau. Illus-
trated. Extra cloth, gilt, 1s. 6d.
LITTLE POEMS FOR LITTLE PEOPLE. By M.S. C.
With Illustration by Harrison Weir. Extra cloth, 1s. 6d.
THE EXCURSION. By William Wordsworth. With Topo-
graphical Notes by T. L. Aspland. 1s.
PEN AND PENCIL SKETCHES OF THE ENGLISH
LAKES. 1s. Eight Chromos, with descriptions by Jas. Payn.
J. GARNETT’S PUBLICATIONS. iii.
VIEWS OF THE ENGLISH LAKES, in handsome Books,
suitable for presents or Souvenirs. 5s. and 2s. 6d.
GARNETT’S RAILWAY TIME-TABLES and Guide to
Public Conveyances in the Lake District. 1d.
GARNETT’S NEW MAP OF THE LAKE DISTRICT OF
ENGLAND, reduced from the Ordnance Survey to 3-inch scale.
By J. Bartholomew, F.G.S. Price, mounted for pocket, 3s. 6d. ;
on rollers, 5s.
“Leaves nothing to be desired.” — Westmorland Gazette,
GARNETT’S TRAVELLING MAPS OF THE LAKE
DISTRICT. In four Sections—viz., WINDERMERE, AMBLE-
SIDE, Keswick, and WastTwaTER.
These Maps have been reduced from the Ordnance Survey to
3-inch scale, drawn and engraved by J. Bartholomew, F.G.S., in the
most careful manner, and have every practicable Road and Moun-
tain Pass accurately delineated on them. The Set, in neat cover, 2s.
GEOLOGICAL MAP OF THE ENGLISH LAKE DIS-
TRICT, with Explanatory Sections and Letterpress, by John
Ruthven. Mounted on Cloth, and in neat cover, 5s.
MAP OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. In cover, for pocket, 6d.
TINTED OUTLINE VIEWS. From Drawings by T. L.
Aspland, engraved by W. J. Linton. 4d. each; or the six in a
packet, 1s.
Across the Head of Stockghyll Ulls Water, upper reach of
Winder Mere, from near Storrs Grass Mere, from Red Bank
Coniston, from near Bank Ground Derwent Water, from Castle Head
VIEWS oF tHE ENGLISH LAKES anp MOUNTAINS.
A series of small Chromo Prints, from Water-colour Drawings by
T, L. Aspland; with descriptive Letterpress. In neat folio, 5s.
Butter Mere and Crummock Winder Mere, from near Storrs
Coniston Lake, from Nibthwaite Rydal Lake
perwent and Bassenthwaite Lakes, Grass Mere, from the Wishing-Gate
from Ashness Bridge Ulls Water, from Gowbarrow Park
Entrance to Ambleside from Gale How
These Prints are also sold separately at 6d. each.
iv. J. GARNETT’S PUBLICATIONS.
ILLUSTRATED NOTE-PAPER
Of the following subjects, at 1d. each:—
Ara Force Waterfall Loughrigg Tarn
Bassenthwaite Lake Lower Fall, Rydal
Barrow Cascade, Derwent Water Newby Bridge, on Winder Mere
Borrowdale and Bowder Stone Old Mill, Ambleside
Bowder Stone and Druid Circle Rigg’s Windermere Hotel
Bowness, from Belle Isle, Winder Mere Rydal Mount
Bownass’ Ulls Water Hotel, Patterdale Rydal Water, from Loughrigg
Brothers’ Water Rydal Water
Calder Abbey Scale Force
Colwith Force St. Mary’s Church and Elleray, Win-
Coniston Lake dermere
Crummock Water and Butter Mere St. Mary’s Abbey, Windermere
Derwent Water, from above Fallof St. Mary’s Church and Schools, Amble-
Lodore. Stanley Ghyll [side
Derwent Water, from Castlet Stockghyll Force, Ambleside
Derwent Water, looking towards Stickle Tarn, Langdale Pikes
Lodore. The College, Windermere
Derwent Water from Applethwaite The Ferry, Winder Mere
Dungeon Ghyll The Knoll, Ambleside
Egremont Castle Thirl Mere, from Raven Crag
Ennerdale Water Ulls Water and Bownass’ Hotel
Esthwaite Water Ulls Water, from entrance to Grisedale
Falls in Rydal Park Upper Reach of Ulls Water
Furness Abbey, two circular views Upper Fall, Rydal
Furness Abbey. — (Linton.) Vale of Keswick
Furness Abbey, East Window Waterhead Hotel, Coniston
Furness Abbey, North Entrance Winder Mere from the Crown Hotel
5p from South-east Winder Mere from near Rigg’s Hotel
Grass Mere, from Red Bank Winder Mere from near Storrs
Grasmere Church and Grave of Winder Mere from Lowwood Hotel
Wordsworth Winder Mere from the Ulverston Road
Head of Derwent Water Waterhead, Winder Mere
Head of Winder Mere, looking towards Waterfall at Coniston
Brathay Winder Mere from near the Royal Hotel
Honister Crag Wray Castle, on Winder Mere
Leathes Water, or Thirl Mere Wast Water, two views
Lodore Waterfall Wastdale Hall, Wastwater
Logan’s Hotel and Furness Abbey Winder Mere
Packets, containing 12 of the above Note Views, assorted for
the Windermere, Ambleside, and Keswick, Districts, in ornamental
wrapper, at 1s. each.
J. GARNETT’S PUBLICATIONS. v.
CHROMATIC PRINTS of the Lakes and Mountains. Royal
Ato. The set, with letterpress description, in neat cover, 1s.
Wray Castle, on Winder Mere Rydal Water
Dungeon Ghyll, Langdale Keswick, from the Ambleside Road
PHOTOGRAPHIC SOUVENIRS OF THE ENGLISH
LAKES: Being Four neat Packets (Windermere, Ambleside,
Keswick, and Furness Districts) of beautiful Photographs, each
containing 12 subjects. Price, 5s. each Packet.
FRITH’S PHOTO-PICTURES OF THE LAKE DIS-
TRICT.—A series of about 120 choice subjects, by that eminent
Artist, mounted on stout card-board. 2s. 6d. each.
The same, COLOURED carefully and artistically so as to rival
Water-colour Drawings, from 10s. 6d. each.
Catalogues supplied on application.
BEAUTIFUL CHROMO-LITHOGRAPH VIEWS oF THE
LAKES. By Messrs. M. & N. Hanhart, of London.
12s, each.
Burrer Mekrg, after E. Penley. Grass Merz, after Edwin Taylor.
ENNEEDALE, BS Bs Rypat WatTzER, D 53
10s. 6d. each,
LAN@paLe Pixzs, after T, Rowbotham.
Grass MERE, » T. L, Aspland,
* Coniston Laxz, » Edwin Taylor,
Crummock WATER, ,) s
Derwent WatER, ,, ‘T. Rowbotham.
73. 6d. each.
Hivettyn, from Ulls Water.
On tHE Doppon, Cumberland.
Honister Crac anD Burren Mzzez,
Friar’s Crac, Derwent Water,
Heap or WINDER MERE.
5s. each.
Ara Force Butter Mere - Colwith Force
Derwent Water Ennerdale Dungeon Ghyll
Grass Mere Vale of Keswick Skelwith Force
Scale Force Thirl Mere Ulls Water
Wast Water ; Winder Mere
Vi. J. GARNETT’S PUBLICATIONS.
VIEWS OF THE LAKES. A series of large 4to highly-
finished line Engravings, 8d. each; or the set of six in beautiful
cover, 5s.
Grass Mere, from Loughrigg Terrace Borrowdale, from near the BowdeF
Ulls Water, from the entrance to Grise- Stone
dale Derwent and Bassenthwaite Lakes»
Head of Winder Mere,from near Miller from Watendlath
Ground Stanley Ghyll, Eskdale
USEFUL AND ORNAMENTAL ARTICLES (such as
Match-boxes, Vases, Pincushions, Rulers, and Date Cases,) beauti-
fully made in White Wood, with Views of the Lakes imprinted
thereon.