UC-NRLF

CULTIVATION

OF

ALLOTMENTS

BY

PERCY ELFORD, M.A.

SECRETARY TO THE OXFORDSHIRE EDUCATION COMMITTEE
FORMERLY FELLOW OF ST. JOHN?S COLLEGE, OXFORD

AND

SAMUEL HEATON, F.R.H.S.

STAFF INSTRUCTOR IN HORTICULTURE TO THE
OXFORDSHIRE EDUCATION COMMITTEE

Price Eighfpence net

OXFORD

AT THE CLARENDON PRESS

LONDON EDINBURGH GLASGOW NEW YORK

TORONTO MELBOURNE CAPE TOWN BOMBAY

OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS

HUMPHREY MILFORD

THE CULTIVATION

OP

ALLOTMENTS

BY

PERCY ELFORD, M.A.

SECRETARY TO THE OXFORDSHIRE EDUCATION COMMITTEE
FORMERLY FELLOW OF ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE, OXFORD

AND

SAMUEL HEATON, F.R.H.S.

STAFF INSTRUCTOR IN HORTICULTURE TO THE
OXFORDSHIRE EDUCATION COMMITTEE

OXFORD
AT THE CLARENDON PRESS

LONDON EDINBURGH GLASGOW NEW YORK

TORONTO MELBOURNE CAPE TOWN BOMBAY

HUMPHREY MILFORD

1917

FOREWORD

NOWADAYS many people are cultivating an allotment
or a vegetable garden for the first time, and any practi-
cal assistance that can be given to them should be really
useful in saving them from unnecessary expense and in
enabling them to grow enough garden produce to keep
themselves and their families. As our work has for
many years brought us daily in touch with the best
methods of cultivation of vegetables, it seemed possible
that our past experience might be of value to those who
are beginners, and even to many accustomed to the
pleasure of gardening. In this little book only those
things will be recommended which our own experience
has proved to be satisfactory, no operation will be
described- which it"- is &()+i:c'm practice to perform, and
we shall endeavour to point 'out pitfalls into which the
*

CONTENTS

PAGE

CHOICE OF AN ALLOTMENT . . . ' . . 5

MANURES FOR AN ALLOTMENT GARDEN . . 10

ARRANGEMENT OF CROPS . . . „ . 13

Rotation Cropping . . . -. . . 16
Area of crops . . . . . . .16

WINTER CROPPING OF AN ALLOTMENT GARDEN 17

SOWING AND PLANTING 19

Jerusalem Artichoke . . . . . .19

Broad Beans , . . . . . . < . 19

Dwarf Beans . . . . ... 21

Runner Beans . . . . . . . 21

Beet Root . . . ' . ... . .22

Broccoli . . . . -4 . - . 23

Borecole or Kale ....... 24

Brussels Sprouts ....... 24

Cabbage 25

Savoy or Dutch Cabbage . * , . . 26

Carrots - . . . . . . ... . 27

Cauliflower . ... ... .. .,::-»_ . 28

Celery . ... . . • • - • • • 28

Cucumber . . . . » . 30

Leek . -. ';. „ 30

Lettuce >* -. . . ; . 31

Onion . ;. . .; - . .. .. i4*ii • 31

Parsnip ^. . .* -. .. ... -:^.~ . 33

Pea . . ........ £| 34

POTATOES . . . .35

Preparation of the heavy ground .... . 37

Manuring and planting , . . ~ .' - - ^

Manuring and hoeing . . ..... 38

Earthing up . . . . . . . " " 39

Prevention of disease . . . « . 39

380638

4 CONTENTS

POTATOES (continued} PAGE

Lifting the crop . . . . . .40

Varieties of potatoes for various kinds of soils . . 41

Radish . . . . . . . . 40

Spinach (Round) . . . . . v ,-^ "- . 42

Tomato . /..,,'. . . v • • 42

Turnip ,* . . 43

Vegetable Marrow . . . . . * . 43

A USEFUL TABLE FOR SOWING . < . . . 44

VEGETABLE GARDEN PESTS ' . . . . 45

Black or Collier Fly 45

Green Fly . . . . . . . . . 46

Beetles . . ... .. . . . -^ 46

Click Beetles . , . .... . . j£ 46

Turnip Flea Beetle . . . , . . . . 47

Weevils . .. . . . .. . |l^ . 47

Pea Weevils. . ,. .. •,.. .... . 47

Butterflies and Moths V ,, ... ,. . . 48

Pea Moth . . . , . J ... 48

Snowy Fly 48

Carrot Fly . . . ..... . .49

Celery and Parsnip Fly 49

Onion Fly ,. ,V, . 50

Slugs and Snails ... . . , . . ^ /.. 51

Eelworms . . . . . m..<-± 51

Woodlice ,• • .52

Ants ,• ,• .52

Centipedes 52

Millipedes 52

Rats and Mice 52

Birds 53

DISEASES . ... . . . . .53

CALENDAR OF GARDENING OPERATIONS 57

The reproduction of the blocks on pp. 45 ff. is by the kind permission
of Messrs. Sutton <& Sons, Reading.

CHOICE OF AN ALLOTMENT

ALTHOUGH it is not always possible to select an ideal
spot for an allotment garden, yet it is worth while to
know what to consider if a selection is possible. The
garden should not be on very high ground, since on high,
exposed positions drying winds and gales may do much
damage. Nor should it be too lowlying, since many low-
lying gardens are subject to fogs and late spring frosts,
and may even be waterlogged.

It is also desirable that the garden should have a gentle
slope to the south, south-east, or south-west, so that the
crops get a maximum amount of sunlight and air.
Plants grown under these conditions ripen earlier and
resist insects and disease better than if these conditions
are impossible.

We are often asked how large an allotment garden
should be. No general answer can be given. A man
with a good deal of time on his hands might cultivate
as much as forty poles (or quarter of an acre), but the
usual sizes are half a chain (or 8 square poles), ten poles,
and one chain (or 16 square poles).

There is a decided advantage in having the allotment
garden long and rather narrow, especially if it is possible
to have it long from east to west and short from north
to south.

The length should be from 40 to 50 yards and the
width from 5J to 9 yards, exclusive of the paths, which
between the allotments should be about 18 inches wide.
It is a good plan to make the paths as dry as possible,
by digging out the soil to a depth of 9 inches and filling

6 ALLOTMENT GAEDENS

in the space with rough broken bricks, stones, and
clinkers to a depth of 6 inches and then covering the
whole with fine gravel, sand, or sifted ashes 3 inches
deep, making the centre of the paths a little higher
than the sides. Grass paths look nice, but not only do
they harbour insects but are very slippery in wet
weather unless the grass is constantly cut. A foot-
scraper is essential and may be easily made from a piece
of hoop iron and pieces of wood. The main roads and
drainage of a field of allotments, where necessary, are
attended to by the Committee of Management.

Water is always greatly in demand on an allotment
in dry summers. Where there is no river or stream and
the water is not laid on to a field of allotments by the
Committee of Management each allottee has to look
after his own water-supply.

This may be done by sinking a few barrels, one above
the other, at the end of the allotment. The top barrel
being well above the ground and fitted with a cover,
which has to be locked to prevent the more improvi-
dent allottees from taking advantage. Well-water
should be exposed to the sun and air for some days
before it is used.

Much of the land converted into allotments is grass
land, and much time and money is wasted by those who
do not know what to do. If the weather is favourable,
the best time to ' break up ' such land is from October
to December, and the top ' spit ' should be again moved
in February or March.

A question often asked is, * What shall we do with the
turf ? ' If the soil is of a heavy retentive nature (clay)
it is better to burn it, and mix the ashes with the seeds
when sowing, this will ensure more evenly distributed

CULTIVATION 7

seeds, and thus economy in seeds. If, on the other hand,
the soil is chalk, sand, or marl, it is better to dig it in —
that is, place it grass side downwards between the first
and second spits, if it is possible to move the soil two
spits deep, but if only moved one spit deep, skim off the
turf about 3 inches thick and place it in the bottom of
the trench (which should be 18 inches wide and 12
inches deep) grass side downwards, chop it up well and
cover it with a thin layer of quicklime, then dig up the
soil which was under the turf one spit deep and place
it on the chopped turves, in this way another trench is
ready for the next set of turves.

If the soil is a good loam the turves taken off should
be stacked in layers, grass side down, one above another.
The stacks should not exceed 4 feet on each side and
4 feet in height.

A layer of powdered quicklime should be spread for
the first layer of turf to rest on, and the stack should be
covered with quicklime 2 inches in thickness. The
decayed turf makes excellent potting mould.

Most people understand how to dig, but relatively few
do it well. When digging, put the spade or fork well into
the ground, holding it upright, and having made a good
open trench, 12 inches wide, right across the ground, as
deep as the blade of the spade (known as a ' spit '), then
dig a second trench by the side of the first — turning the
soil well over and placing it in the first trench.

If the plot of ground is five or more yards wide it will
save labour to divide it lengthways in halves, and then it
will only be necessary to move the earth from the first
trench a short distance to fill in the last trench. Begin
working from the lowest part of the plot.

Trenching or deep digging, two spits deep or more,

8

ALLOTMENT GARDENS

has many advantages where it can be done. The ortho-
dox way of trenching is to open out a trench one spit
deep and 4 feet wide (see diagram A to D) and place this
surface soil near where the last trench will be, so as to
have it ready to fill up the last trench. Then half this
width, B (2 feet), is dug out another spit deep. The earth
in this deeper spit will probably be different in appear-
ance and character from that in the top spit . It should be
placed near the surface soil for filling in the bottom half

A

D

«SvjrfaceSoi

B

C

vSvjbsoil
1

B

How trenching should be done.

of the last trench. The bottom of the trench (B),
which is now 2 spits deep, should be forked up and a
good dressing of animal refuse and roadside quart erings,
with a sprinkling of lime on the top, should be added ;
the subsoil trench (C) should be turned on to this and
more manure can be added. Then the trench (B)
should be filled up with the top spit of the next trench
(D). Each trench should be kept two feet wide until
the work is done.
Heavy or clayey soils should have materials added

CULTIVATION 9

which will render them lighter and more porous, such as
strawy manure, sand, brick and lime rubble.

Light or sandy soils should have leaf mould, rotted t
farmyard manure, and ' catch' crops — that is, mustard,
vetch, &c., grown on purpose for * green manuring ' ;
these enable the soil to keep its moisture longer.

Where trenching is not possible Bastard Trenching
should be done. It is the moving of the top spit and
turning the second spit or subsoil without taking it
out of the trench.

No one should forget that for plants to thrive the air
must be able to get well down into the soil, and bastard
trenching helps this.

Often it is not advisable to bring subsoil, or the second
spit, to the surface, but it is good to thoroughly stir or
move it.

Ridging, or roughing up the ground in winter, is
usually much neglected, but it is extremely valuable as
it breaks up the soil into a fine state of division, and so
renders it suitable for cultivation. Water on freezing
expands in the tiny cracks and crevices in the stones
and forces them open, thus improving the ' tilth '.

10 ALLOTMENT GAEDENS

MANURES FOR AN ALLOTMENT GARDEN

The manures usually available to an allotment holder
are of two kinds — natural and chemical.

In the former, stable manure is most in demand on
account of its cheapness and being easily procurable.

To be of the greatest benefit it requires some manage-
ment when placed in a heap, for it loses much of its
value when it gets too hot and dry, or when so saturated
with water that a stream of black liquid runs from the
heap ; the soluble plant foods should be retained by
placing occasional layers of soil, some 3 inches thick,
between the layers of manure, and the top of the heap
should be covered with a layer of soil at least 6 inches
thick.

Cow manure is most suitable for light and hot soils.

Pig manure is suitable for light and loamy soils.

Night soil on the earth pail system may be used to
advantage. Household slops are useful for watering
most plants, potatoes excepted. Ten pole of ground
is sufficient for the night soil from four to six people.

Chemical manures applied as a powder should be
well broken up and evenly distributed. See that the
manures do not fall on the leaves. A manure applied
in a liquid form is of greater value as a plant-food
than if applied in the form of a solid.

The following table, with diagram, gives full informa-
tion on the general manures, when and how to apply
them :

I * s

* -1 *

M.3 d

if8

-S'i--'

5*1'

S *

-rJ I •£,

-g ^ 5*
o^^

." o «

,"- PH Q

PH 43

s-s

•

II:

£ o

tis Sd

1*

c . «S

||| |^| ^

"i^O, S ftOQ O.

<J CO t>CQ DO

1 "8!

c3 >>

d

•

•r -a

H

^ !•

•a-a

ft

ssag

I Hi

^Ili

, ^ o +3 ^ o a

!gfc g I*!-

- &

PH d5

"o "g

U —i

I I

•a

p J3 -

fig g 3 S£

t

CQ

f

DO

18

ARRANGEMENT OF CROPS

Special mention has been made in regard to the shape
of the allotment garden.

PLAN A.

THIS SHOWS THE SYSTEM OF BAD CROPPING.
S.

Scarlet Runners.

Carrots.

Beet.

Lettuces

and
Radishes.

Broad Beans

Dwarf Beans.

Potatoes.

Peas.

Onions.

Green Crops.

Turnips.
(Broadcast.)

Parsnips.

Leeks.

N.

W.

[Turn over.

U AIMMMI \1 HAKIM V

PLAN A

I Hi- -I", ' '»»' l<>"< »=> ««"»* I-" — 'I- .o«:, ,-f .,..,.;, .«..' I.'.-

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I*

» ..... > ...... >•. ««=>'•• -« >•— < «•«=»«" -' j-«^'»». ^-

<( > • i , > 'i . > >'j«

of M€tf4k A.Uvt ;- • r i i-.ul « ,- i -»» in U' cvi i!u \

*\i »»o»»U «inv» -^ ^»^*l nv i \«^MV> WW W^BW^^T^P w§ VW * ^ ^WW wHM»*^

........

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*^\» %\M \ \*I?A> ^^^^ %

„ J*
^

*^-^ j^vi^^fc^ ^A

^ ^V ^r*W^W^ ^W

ARRANGEMENT OF CEOPS

15

Tms SHOWS
E.

PLAN B.

8T9TZM OP GOOD CBOFFDTO.

Parsnips.

why good—
1. Because the length of a
row win provide sufficient
vegetables for use with-
out waste.

ows facilitate

Carrots.

3. Because the rows nm
north and flooth.

4. By the crops heing sown
in rows the

done, and the yields are
heavier and the jiiBlj

Lettuces and

Xorx.—Otker crops grown

16 ALLOTMENT GAKDENS

EOTATION CROPPING

A change of ground is considered for some crops, such
as potatoes, cabbages, and winter greens, to be abso-
lutely necessary. But since trenching or deep and
thorough cultivation is so frequently done, and the use
of chemical manures has become more common, it is
not considered so necessary for onions, peas, and other
crops.

For those allotment holders who wish to adopt rotation
cropping the following guiding rules may prove helpful :

Rule 1. Plants of the same kind or belonging to the
same family should not be grown for two or more years
in succession on the same piece of ground.

Rule 2. Plants of the same habit of growth, or having
the same part of the plant edible, should have a change
of ground each year.

Rule 3. Plants requiring the same method of cultiva-
tion should have new ground each year.

Rule 4. Plants requiring the same ' dominant ' foods
should be changed.

Rule 5. Plants subject to the same insects and diseases
should not be grown two years running on the same
piece of ground.

Rule 6. First year, plant potatoes ; second year,
grow peas and beans ; third year, grow cabbages and
other green crops ; fourth year, grow onions, leeks,
and shallots ; fifth year, beet, carrots, parsnips, and
turnips ; sixth year, light crops, such as herbs, salads,
and seedlings.

If celery is grown, the trench may be made early and
used as a seed bed before the celery plants are large
enough to put out.

17

AKEA OF CKOPS

It is impossible to lay down hard and fast rules as to
what shall be grown and the area of each crop, but on a
sixteen-pole plot the following proportions may be help-
ful as showing what area is necessary for each crop, if
well cultivated, to provide a family of six persons with
vegetables all the year round. Potatoes four to six
poles ; legumes (peas and beans), one to two poles ;
green crops (cabbages, &c.), two to three poles ; onions,
shallots, and leeks, one to two poles ; beet, carrots,
parsnips, and turnips, two to three poles. The re-
mainder of the ground for salads and herbs, and seed
and nursery beds.

WINTER CROPPING OF AN ALLOTMENT
GARDEN

Vegetable

Variety

When sown

Approximate time to
mature

Dwarf Beans

CanadianWonder

July

10 to 12 weeks.

Peas

Green Gem

July

10 to 12 weeks.

Turnips

Snowball

July & Aug.

8 to 10 weeks.

Beet

The Globe

July

10 to 12 weeks.

Carrots

Early Gem

July

10 to 12 weeks.

Onions

Ailsa Craig

July & Aug.

To stand the winter.

Cabbage

Flower of Spring

July & Aug.

To stand the winter.

Cauliflower

Magnum Bonum

Aug.& Sept.

Requires protection

through the winter.

Lettuce, Cabbage

Earliest of All

July

8 to 10 weeks.

„ Cos

Winter White

Aug.

To stand the winter.

Spinach

Round

July & Aug.

6 to 8 weeks.

»

Prickly

Aug. & Sept.

To stand the winter.

Plant out into permanent quarters in June and July : Broccoli (heading
and sprouting), Kale, Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, Celery, Leeks, and Cabbage.

NOTE. — Sow Mustard on vacant ground for green manuring when it is too
late to put in any other crop.

Adopting the methods outlined, so far our results
show an unusually good yield — far better than the

2063 T>

18

ALLOTMENT GABDENS

average in the neighbourhood. The following table
shows the actual yields of crops grown on a ten-pole
plot in 1916.

Length of plot from east to west, 50 yards ; length
of rows 16J feet from north to south.

Crop

Variety

No. of rows

Yield

Jerusalem Artichoke

Sutton White

1

112 lb.

Vegetable Marrows

Mixed, long

4 plants

20

Turnip

Early Snowball

2

40 lb.

Spinach

Round

2

1 bushel

Runner Bean

Al

1

30 lb.

Pea

Hundredfold

1

12 lb.

Potato

King Edward VII

5

112 lb.

Five rows of seeds *

Potato

Stirling Castle

5

112 lb.

Dwarf Bean

Haricot

1

20 lb.

Potato

Eclipse

5

392 lb.

Cabbage

Earliest

1

16

Leek

Musselburgh

1

32

Lettuce

Superb White Cos

1

32

Parsley

Imperial Curled

1

1 bushel

Spinach

Round

2

1 bushel

Dwarf Bean

Haricot

1

15 lb.

Parsnip

Tender and True

2

60 lb.

Beet

Sutton Globe

2

48 lb.

Turnip

Snowball

4

100 lb.

Dwarf Bean

Canadian Wonder

1

30 lb.

Carrot

Favourite

6

112 lb.

Runner Bean

A 1

1

40 lb.

Onion
Pea

Improved Reading
Early Giant

6
1

56 lb.

10 lb.

Potato

Reliance

5

432 lb.

Pea

Early Giant

1

15 lb.

Potato

Centenary

5

156 lb.

Pea

Early Giant

1

16 lb.

Potato

Harbinger

5

384 lb.

Potato

Golden Wonder

1

28 lb.

Parsley

Imperial Curled

1

\ bushel

1 Kale, Sprouting Broccoli, Savoy, Cauliflower, and Brussels
Sprouts. These were planted between the potatoes and after the
early potatoes were got up.

Leeks were dibbed iu between the rows of Onions.

Lettuces were transplanted between any of the crops where there
was room.

19

SOWING AND PLANTING

Having prepared the garden, and having decided the
crops to be grown, it is necessary to decide what kind of
seeds and what quantities to get.

To assist in this selection a list of the vegetables which
have been grown in gardens under our personal observa-
tion will now be given.

Jerusalem Artichoke. This useful vegetable, as the
stems grow very tall, should only be grown on the east
as a screen to hide unsightly objects and as a shelter for
more tender plants from the north-east winds.

Plant the ' tubers ' in March in rows 3 feet apart, each
tuber being 15 inches from its neighbours in the rows,
and from 4 to 6 inches deep.

The yield is much improved if the ground is deeply
dug and well manured before the tubers are planted.

One gallon of seed tubers (7 lb.) will plant 60 feet run,
and the amount of yield that may be expected is at
least 4 bushels (32 gallons). The produce should be
worth, approximately, 3d. per gallon.

If, when the plants are from 12 to 18 inches high, the
tops are ' pinched out * they can be dwarfed.

Varieties to grow : ' New Pearly White ' and * Sutton
White '.

Broad Beans. Broad beans should be grown in reten-
tive heavily manured soil.

Make successional sowings or plantings from .Feb-
ruary up to, but not beyond, April. The seed should be
planted 3 inches deep in single rows 2 feet apart, the
seeds being 4^ inches apart in the row, or they may be
planted in double rows, each pair of rows making a

B2

20

ALLOTMENT GAEDENS

double row, being 3 feet apart from the next double row
and the seeds 9 inches apart in and between the rows.
Single row thus :

Double row thus :

ID

4-9 in>

Double Rows of Broad Beans.

One pint of seed will plant 60 feet run, and if every-
thing is favourable the yield should be about 1 bushel.
For successional crops ' Early Mazagan ', or ' Dwarf
Cluster ', ' Seville Longpod ', and ' Green Giant ' are
suitable.

Keep hoeing between the rows to keep down weeds
and to promote rapid growth. If the black aphis

{BOWING AND PLANTING 21

appears pinch off the tops affected and burn them. The
topping of broad beans increases the size of the pods
and beans and hastens maturity. In hot dry seasons
a light ' mulching ' of strawy manure and occasional
syringeing overhead is always beneficial.

Dwarf Beans. Dwarf or French beans should be
planted or sown on well and deeply worked soils which
have been manured in the winter. A dressing of lime
is beneficial to all legumes.

Successional sowings should be made from May 1 to
the middle of July. Sow in rows 2 feet apart and from
2 to 3 inches deep. When the plants are well above
ground thin them out to 10 or 12 inches apart in the
rows. Hoe the ground frequently and well. When the
pods are formed a mulching of strawy manure can be
given in hot dry seasons.

Periodical syringing overhead will keep the plants
free from ' red spider ' and will promote healthy growth.

Of the many varieties grown and recommended we
have not found a better than ' Canadian Wonder '.

One pint of seed will sow 160 feet run, and the yield
in a good season has been 4 bushels (256 lb.)

Plants mature in about twelve weeks ; in good sea-
sons we have gathered beans ten weeks after sowing of
'Wiffiams's Early Dwarf and ' Ne Plus Ultra'
varieties, and we have also gathered from the same
plants for ten weeks.

Runner Beans. A rich loam dug up roughly in the
winter and re- dug in the spring mixed, where the seed
is to be planted, with plenty of good well-rotted manure
suits runner beans well. Plant the seed during May and
June in rows 12 feet apart, with the seed 9 inches apart
if the beans are to be ' staked ', and a dwarf crop, such

22 ALLOTMENT GAEDENS

as beet, should be grown between the rows. If, how-
ever, the beans are to be ' pinched ' and grown without
sticks, then plant in double rows 2 feet apart and 12
inches from seed to seed, planting the seed 3 inches deep.

We have found very little, if any, difference in the
total yield from a given area between runner beans
staked and not staked, but as the fatter matured earlier
a better price was obtained for them.

Hoe, mulch, feed with liquid manure, and syringe
the crops freely in dry seasons if you desire good results.

To maintain a continuous supply keep gathering the
pods as soon as they are ready, since the ripening of the
pods takes all the energy of the plant which otherwise
is employed in forming fresh pods.

One pint of seed will plant a 100-foot row, and the
yield in a good season should be about 10 bushels.

The crop takes about fifteen weeks to mature.

Of a very great many varieties we have grown, ' A 1 '
and ' Best of All ' have given us the best results.

Should there be an over-abundance of either runner
or dwarf beans and no sale, it is desirable to pickle them
for winter use, as this is very easily and simply done.
Take an earthenware jar, clean it thoroughly, and then
dry it. Place in it a layer of salt, then on this a layer of
the picked beans, neither too old nor too young, then
another layer of salt followed by another layer of beans,
and so on till the jar is full. Fasten the jar down so that
the cover is air-tight, and keep it in a cool dry place.

Beet-root. This important root requires a deeply
worked soil, and the oftener the ground is moved during
the winter the better. No farmyard manure should be
mixed with the surface soil or the roots will probably be
forked. This crop should follow a crop like peas, celery,

SOWING AND PLANTING 23

*

onions, or cauliflower, for which the ground was well
manured.

Before sowing the seed rake over the bed and get a
fine even tilth, clearing away all rough stones.

Sow the seed in drills, or channels, 1 inch deep and 12
inches apart. The sowing should be done from April to
the end of June. Hoe frequently and thin out the plants
to 6 inches apart. For early and late sowings, for im-
mediate consumption, sow the * Globe ' or * Egyptian '
turnip-rooted varieties which will mature in about
twelve weeks.

For winter use sow tap-rooted varieties about the
middle of May if quality is wanted.

After trials of over twenty varieties we can recom-
mend ' Pine Apple ' and ' Blood Ked '.

One ounce of seed will be ample for a row 100 feet
long, and the produce should weigh from 2 to 3 cwt.

When ' lifting ', that is, digging up the roots, be
careful not to bruise the skin nor to break off the roots.
Do not cut, but twist off the leaves. Lift the roots
before the frost comes and store in dry sand or ' pit '
them, i. e. place them in a heap in the garden, cover
them with straw and then with a layer of earth 4 to 6
inches thick, placing a wisp of straw through the top
of the soil for ventilation purposes.

Broccoli. The varieties of broccoli are so numerous
that one can have (weather permitting) broccoli for ten
months in the year.

Quarter of an ounce of seed will provide plants for
a 400-foot row at 2 feet apart. . For autumn crops sow
under glass in February, or in the open in March ; for
spring crops sow in the open at the end of April or the
beginning of May. Sow the seed thinly in a fine tilth in

24 ALLOTMENT GARDENS

drills 12 inches apart, covering the seed very lightly
(not more than -J- inch deep) with fine soil. Transplant
from the seed-bed or frame into a nursery-bed before the
plants get * drawn ' and ' leggy ', and finally transplant
into their permanent quarters which, for autumn crops,
should be a well-manured soil ; but for spring crops the
soil must not be too rich, since a luxuriant and succu-
lent growth before the winter would render the plants
too delicate to stand severe cold winds or keen frosts.

Plant in drills 2 inches deep and 2 feet apart each way,
and when the plants have got a good start earth them
up and give them plenty of water to promote growth
and to give a certain amount of protection against
strong winds. Shade the plants from the sun's scorch-
ing rays.

The varieties we can generally recommend are
' Michaelmas White ', ' Autumn Protecting ', ' Satis-
faction ', and * Late Queen '.

Borecole or Kale. This very useful winter vegetable
requires well-cultivated ground, but not over-manuring.
It is often planted between rows of potatoes at 2 feet
apart from plant to plant. A quarter of an ounce of
seed will provide hundreds of plants. Sow the bed in
April and May very thinly and transplant, before the
plants get ' drawn ' and spindly, soon after the potatoes
are earthed up.

Both the plain and curled-leaved sorts are suitable for
allotment gardens. Variegated kales should be grown
in poor and calcareous soils.

Brussels Sprouts. To get very early crops make a
sowing of the seed in August, pricking out the plants to
6 inches apart and transplanting in the spring into rows
2 feet apart and. the plants also 2 feet from one another

SOWING AND PLANTING 25

in the row. In some seasons these plants are apt to run
to seed. Where facilities, such as greenhouses or hot-
beds, are obtainable make a sowing in February, prick
out the plants early into boxes, and transplant into
their permanent quarters in April.

As these sprouts are an important crop the ground
intended to receive them should be ready for them as
soon as the plants in the seed-bed or boxes are ready
to be transplanted.

Successional sowings can be made in the open in
March and April. Prick out the plants, when large
enough to handle, in rows 12 inches apart, and the
plants 6 inches apart in the row. Then, not later than
June, plant out in ground in good condition and well
manured for the previous crop. This Imal planting
should be in rows 3 feet apart and the plants should be
from 2 to 3 feet apart in the row. Where ground is
limited plant between every two rows of potatoes after
they are earthed up. The plants require a long period,
approximately twenty-four to thirty weeks before
maturity.

Sprouts should be gathered systematically .from the
base upwards, leaving the head until the sprouts are all
gathered.

Varieties : * Dwarf Gem ' on good fertile loams but
not for shallow soils or exposed localities. The tall-
growing varieties are * Exhibition ' and ' Matchless ',
these seem to do well anywhere.

Our experiments have proved that there is an advan-
tage in pricking out the plants at least once before the
final planting.

Cabbage. To get early ' spring' cabbage ', i.e. in
April, May, and June, sow the seed between the 7th

26 ALLOTMENT GAEDENS

and 14th of August ; prick out, when large enough to
handle, 4 inches apart each way, and plant out in
October, or later during open weather, on firm ground
which had been well manured for a previous crop. The
rows should be 18 inches apart and the plants 15 inches
from each other in the row.

In spring hoe the ground freely, but not very deeply,
and give the plants in showery weather a light dressing
of sulphate of ammonia (1J Ib. to a pole), but in apply-
ing it be careful not to let the manure touch the foliage,
then mulch with half-rotten stable manure.

' April ' and ' Flower of Spring ' are good early
varieties. Cabbage is not in great demand through the
summer, it is wanted in the autumn and early winter.
Most varieties that are sown in spring will be ready for
use in from fourteen to sixteen weeks from the date of
sowing. Sow thinly, prick out early, and plant in rows
2 feet apart and the plants 18 inches apart in the row.

' All Heart ' and ' Improved Nonpareil ' are good
varieties for general or autumn and early winter use.

Red Cabbage should either be sown in August, or * in
heat ' in early spring. The plants when thinned out
should be in rows 2 feet apart and 2 feet from plant to
plant in the row.

Savoy or Dutch Cabbage. This cabbage is usually
sown much too early. April and May are the proper
months for sowing. Some varieties may be obtained
fit for use at the end of September, but there is no
particular advantage in having savoys so early in the
season, as their chief recommendation is their great
hardiness which renders them available for use during
the winter months when other vegetables are difficult
to obtain. The varieties we have found most advan-

SOWING AND PLANTING 27

tageous to grow are * Sugar Loaf ' and ' Best of All '.
The former is unique in its habit of growth and can be
planted in rows 18 inches apart, and the plants need not
be more than 12 inches apart in the row. Savoys can be
planted out after early potatoes and in ground well
manured for the previous crop.

Carrots. The soil for carrots should be well trenched
or dug in during the winter and if any stable manure is
applied it should be well rotted and should be placed at
the bottom of the trench. An ideal soil is a sandy loam
of great depth. The roots cannot be grown successfully
in lumpy soil. Lumps must be broken up and a fine
tilth obtained before the seeds are sown. Should it be
impossible to obtain this condition it is advisable to
make holes with an iron bar in rows a foot apart and
with the holes 8 inches from one another in the rows.
These holes should be from 12 to 18 inches deep. A
fortnight or so before sowing the seed the holes should
be filled in with a compost made of ordinary garden soil,
leaf mould, sand, and wood ashes, sifted through a half-
inch mesh sieve. Sow only three or four seeds in each
hole and on thinning out leave only one plant in each
hole. Sowings of carrots can be made out of doors from
the end of March till the end of June. For a late crop
sow an early variety late in June. A great mistake is
often made by sowing carrots for winter use too early.
(The same may be said concerning beet and parsnips.)
The crop matures in sixteen to twenty weeks. May is
a good time for the main sowing.

Sow in rows 12 inches apart at a depth of about half
an inch. Half an ounce of seed will sow a row 100 feet
long and the yield should be approximately 1J bushels.
Mix the seed with fine dry soil, or sand, to sow thinly.

28 ALLOTMENT GARDENS

When the plants are growing thin out to 3 inches and
then to 6 inches apart in the row. We have found
' Early Gem ', ' Favourite ', and ' New Bed Interme-
diate ', satisfactory varieties to grow.

The roots should be * lifted ' before the frost comes,
and then the roots should either be * pitted ' or stored
in dry earth or sand.

During summer the hoe should be kept going steadily.
A light dressing of sulphate of ammonia, £ oz. to each
yard run, during showery weather, is helpful.

Cauliflower. The cauliflower requires a well-culti-
vated and rich soil. Unless there is convenience for
sowing indoors for the early crops it would be advisable
to buy the plants required. If ' heat ' can be had sow
early in February. Prick out into boxes as soon as the
plants are large enough to handle, and plant in the open
about the beginning of April in rows 18 inches apart and
15 inches from plant to plant. At the end of March or
early in April sowings can be made outside, sow thinly
and prick out early, 6 inches apart from plant to plant,
in richly-prepared ground ; finally plant out when large
enough in rows 2 feet apart and 18 inches from plant to
plant. The time the crop takes to mature is from six-
teen to twenty-four weeks.

The varieties we can recommend are ' Purity ', ' Early
Giant ', and ' Autumn Mammoth '.

To keep the heads a good colour tie up the leaves or
break them down over the * flower '.

Celery. Celery should be grown in a rich soil retentive
of moisture, but with no stagnant water. For early
crops sow in March under glass, but for the main crop
sow outside on a warm border where the young plants
can be protected from cold winds during April. When

SOWING AND PLANTING 29

the seedlings are large enough to handle, prick out from
the early sowing to 6 inches apart into a frame in which
good rotten dung, leaf mould, and loam have been well
mixed together and laid to a depth of several inches ;
water and shade them for a few days, encourage ' stocky '
growth in the plants by giving them air on all favourable
occasions. High temperature and sudden changes tend
to produce ' bolting ' of the plants. During the growth
of the plants the trenches into which they have to go
must be prepared. Many systems are recommended.
We find that if trenches are marked out 3 feet apart,
about 15 inches wide and 12 inches deep, and 6 inches
of this is filled in with a mixture, thoroughly made, of
rotten manure, leaf mould, and surface soil, the results
are as satisfactory as with more elaborate methods.
When transplanting into the trenches one must first see
that the soil in the trenches, as well as that in which the
plants are growing, is nice and moist. If there seems a
tendency to dryness give a thorough soaking the day
before planting out. Lift the plants carefully with a
trowel and plant about 8 inches apart in the trench.
After planting out give the plants a good watering and
shade for a few days. During the summer the plants
should be well watered, and liquid manure, both farm-
yard and chemical, should be supplied. Do not begin
to * earth up ' the plants until the growth [is practically
completed . The edible part of the celery is the blanched
leaf-stalk. The ' blanching ' or * earthing up ' is done
either by putting and pressing finely powdered soil
round the plants, taking care that none of it gets into
the heart of the plant, or by putting strong paper round
each plant. It takes from six to eight weeks to properly
blanch the leaf -stalks.

30 ALLOTMENT GAEDENS

The varieties grown satisfactorily are * A 1 ' (red),
4 Solid White ', ' Leicester Bed ', and ' White Gem '.

Cucumber. The open-air cultivator must either dig
out a trench 2 feet wide and 1 foot deep, or must make
holes 2 feet across and 1 foot deep, the holes being 4 feet
apart. The trench or the holes must be filled with some
' heating manure ' which must be lightly trodden down
and covered with about 4 inches of soil. This should be
done early in May. Towards the end of the month the
seed should be sown 12 inches apart in the trenches,
eventually thinning to 3 feet apart. Where holes are
made three seeds should be planted in each hole, even-
tually thinning out to one plant in each hole.

Protect the plants from cold winds and frosty nights
whilst young.

After they are established and growing freely pinch
or stop the plants. Water and feed with liquid manure
through the summer.

' King of the Kidge ' and ' Stockwood ' are good
serviceable varieties.

Leek. The leek should have a long season of growth,
from twenty-four to thirty weeks.

There are many methods of cultivation adopted, but
the simplest and probably the best is to sow the seed
in March and April rather thickly ; allow the plants to
grow till 8 inches high, then plant out with a dibber into
rows 12 to IB inches apart and the plants 8 inches apart
in the row, making holes 6 inches deep and dropping a
plant into each hole up to the base of the leaves.

During the summer keep the hoe going freely ; water
and feed with natural and artificial manures as neces-
sary. As the plants grow earth up to the base of the
leaves. To get large exhibition leeks sow the seed much

SOWING AND PLANTING 31

earlier, prick out, and afterwards plant into trenches
enriched with plenty of farmyard manure ; feed freely
and earth up as required.

Some excellent leeks can be had the following April
and May by dibbling in plants on an onion bed as soon
as the onions are lifted in the autumn.

Little growth will be made till spring, the plants will
then grow freely, and if attended to by hoeing, earthing
up, and feeding they will do well.

Good varieties to grow are ' Prizetaker ', * Favourite ',
' Musselburgh ', and * The Lyon '.

Lettuce. To get early spring lettuces sow the seed in
August and September. Plant out when large enough
into rows 12 inches apart and the plants 6 inches apart
in the row.

To stand the winter they should have as much protec-
tion as possible from damp and frost, therefore planting
under trees and fences is advisable.

Sowing outside can commence in March and be -con-
tinued at intervals till the autumn sowing in August or
September. For early work sow the cabbage type which
turns in quickly. ' Commodore Nutt ', ' Malta ', ' Con-
tinuity ', and ' Tom Thumb ', are good.

To obtain large exhibition cos lettuces plant in richly
manured ground and feed. Plant in rows 12 inches
apart and the plants 9 inches apart in the row.

Now there are so many self-folding varieties the tying
up of the leaves when the plants are three parts grown
is not much done.

Good varieties are ' Superb White Cos ', ' Mammoth
White ', and ' Peerless '.

Onion. The successful cultivation of the onion re-
quires a deep rich soil and a long period of growth.

82 ALLOTMENT GABDENS

The ground should be trenched 2 to 3 feet deep in the
winter, in the bottom trench add garden refuse, road-
side quarterings, &c. ; to the top spit add plenty of
good stable manure, and if the soil is retentive add 7 lb.
basic slag, 5 lb. wood ashes, and when raking down the
bed for seed sowing add 5 lb. of soot to each pole of
ground. Burnt soil and lime are good for heavy soils.
To a light soil give a mixture of 4 lb. superphosphate
and 4 lb. kainit, adding, when raking down the bed for
seed sowing, 3 lb. of salt and 5 lb. of soot — these
quantities to each pole of ground.

During March, on a nice dry day and when the soil is
workable, break down the lumps of earth, rake off the
stones, level the ground, and tread to get a firm surface.

Draw drills at 1 foot apart and about -J- an inch deep.

Sow the seed thinly, making an ounce do a 200-foot
row. When the plants are up in the row hoe to loosen
the surface soil, but do not hoe deeply.

Thin as required for use, finally leaving the plants
6 inches apart in the row.

Feed with guano, nitrate of soda, and soot. For
quantities see table.

In a hot dry summer mulch with short manure.

When the tops show signs of ripening bend them
over, this will have the effect of swelling and ripening
the bulbs. Before storing have the bulbs well ripened
by laying them out on a gravel path, hurdles or corru-
gated iron.

The varieties for sowing outside are ' A 1 ', ' Improved
Beading ', ' Nuneham Park ', ' White Spanish ', and
' White Globe '.

The varieties to grow for exhibition, and to be sown
under glass in January and February, and planted out

SOWING AND PLANTING 83

in April in rows 18 inches apart and plants 12 inches
apart in the row, are ' Ailsa Craig,' ' Cranston's Ex-
celsior,' and ' Southampton Champion '. Lift and
plant with a trowel.

Autumn-sown onions are larger and earlier than
spring-sown and are considered almost proof against
the fly.

The approximate time for sowing is the first week in
August.

Sow thinly in rows 1 foot apart, do not thin out or
transplant till the following March ; then thin to 3
inches apart, afterwards to 6 inches apart, using the
thinnings for home use.

In regard to transplanting of autumn-sown onions,
the results of a number of experiments showed the
yield in weight to be as four to five in favour of non-
transplanting. But the percentage going to seed was
considerably less in the transplanted than the non-
transplanted, being as two to three.

A good crop would be from 4 to 6 bushels from a pole
of ground.

The following out of thirty varieties sown in the
autumn gave good results : * James's Long-keeping ',
' Deptford ', ' White Spanish ', * Cranston's Excelsior',
' Giant Eocca', ' Giant Zittau', and 'A 1 '.

Almost any variety of onion- can be grown for pickling
if the seed is sown thickly close up to a row of peas and
not thinned.

Parsnip. The ground for parsnips should be well
trenched or deeply dug in the winter ; and if any stable
manure is added put it at least 12 inches deep in the
trench.

Before sowing the seed, which can be done from

34 ALLOTMENT GAKDENS

February till end of April, rake down the soil and get an
even surface, draw the drills 15 inches apart and about
1 inch deep. Sow the seed very thinly, making an ounce
do a 200-foot row. Thin the plants early, first to 5 inches
apart and then to 10 inches apart ; keep the hoe going
freely through the summer. A few roots can be lifted
as required for use, but the bulk of the crop should
remain in the ground as long as possible. When lifted
store in sand or dry earth or else * pit ' them. In very
heavy soil the land can be * barred ' for the crop, i.e.
holes can be made in the ground as for carrots, or some
of the roots can be grown in small drain-pipes.

* Tender and True ' and ' Hollow Crown ' are good
varieties to grow ; the former does particularly well on
a shallow stony soil and the latter on a well-cultivated
loam.

Pea. For very early crops sow round peas, not
wrinkled, on a south border in October and November,
as these are hardy and of a dwarf habit of growth.
Usually February is soon enough to make the first
sowing of peas outdoors.

Choose a nice warm border and sow a dwarf-growing
variety like ' William Hurst ' in drills 2 feet apart.
Successional sowings can be made in the open till the
end of June, sowing an early variety for the late crop.
The ground for peas should be well dug or trenched in
the winter, mixing with the soil lime rubble and bone
meal, or in place of these a quantity of basic slag 4 oz.
to the square yard.

At sowing time level down the ground and dig a
trench one spit deep ; mix with the soil at the bottom
of the trench, if sweet and good (if not, throw it out and
replace with surface soil), plenty of rotten manure,

SOWING AND PLANTING 35

then add 3 inches of surface soil ; sow the peas on this
and cover 2 or 3 inches deep.

Instead of sowing the peas together, row after row,
we find it an advantage to have a dwarf-growing crop
like beet or carrots between each row ; this would make
the rows of peas say 6 to 12 feet apart.

Before staking peas they should be earthed up. Then
place some bushy birch twigs at the bottom to protect
and support the young plants, afterwards the ordinary
sticks. Staking peas should be done carefully ; first,
the sticks should be in line ; secondly, they should be
placed in a sloping direction in opposite ways on each
side of the line ; thirdly, the tops should be shortened
to give a finish to the work.

For general crops sow the seed much more thinly
than for early crops. One pint will sow 80 to 120 feet.

The approximate time of maturity of the crops sown
in spring and summer will be from twelve to sixteen
weeks.

The following have proved good varieties to grow :
' Early Giant ' (3 feet), ' Gradus ' (3 feet), ' Thomas
Laxton ' (3 feet), ' Duke of Albany ' (5 feet), ' Autocrat '
(4 feet), ' Ne Plus Ultra ' (6 feet).

The approximate heights of growth are given, but
their height will depend to a great extent on the soil,
situation, and season.

Potatoes. The successful cultivation of the potato
depends on very many things : first the soil must be
deeply dug or trenched during the winter and left rough,
for the atmospheric agencies to pulverize and aerate it.

We may here point out that some varieties will give
four times the yield of other sorts, though grown in the
same soil and under the same methods of cultivation.

02

36 ALLOTMENT GARDENS

This shows the necessity of having in each field of
allotments a trial plot, with a view of finding out the
most suitable varieties of potatoes and other vegetables
for that particular locality.

The varieties which were grown on a heavy loam with
a clayey subsoil, and which yielded from 10J lb. of seed
tubers planted a crop of 7 bushels weighing 392 lb. from
one pole of ground, with very few small or diseased
tubers, were Harbinger, Eclipse, and Reliance.

On a sandy loam with a gravelly subsoil similar
results have been got with Button's Seedling, Acquisi-
tion, Edinburgh Castle, and Satisfaction varieties of
potatoes.

The following is a description of the way in which we
got 7 bushels of potatoes from one pole of ground in
1916:

The potatoes bought for planting were guaranteed
Scotch grown, and were specially grown for seed
purposes.

The price paid for them was from one to two shillings
a gallon (weighing 7 ft).). The potatoes were got in
January, and as soon as they arrived they were un-
packed and set out in shallow boxes with the * rose ' or
' crown ' end upwards, and placed, till the time for
planting, in a well-lighted, airy, and frost-proof room.

A weekly inspection of the boxes was made, with a
view of taking out and burning unsound tubers, if any
showed signs of decay, and also, if necessary, of changing
the positions of the boxes so as to get a uniform growth
of sturdy and well-coloured shoots on all the tubers.

The tubers, weighing from 1 to 2 oz. each, were only
allowed to develop two shoots each, whilst the tubers
weighing over 2 oz. were allowed to develop three

SOWING AMD PLANTING 37

shoots each. Most of these tubers were cut at plant-
ing time.

Preparation of the heavy ground. — The potatoes were
planted on ground which was previously deeply culti-
vated for root crops. As soon as the crops were lifted,
which was in September, the ground was rough dug to
a good depth, and then 14 lb. of powdered quicklime
was scattered over the surface.

In the following February and March, when the ground
was not too wet, it was again turned over.

A trench was taken out one spit deep ; the second
spit was turned over and well broken up, but kept at
the bottom of the trench. Nothing more was done to
the ground till planting time.

Manuring and planting. — The planting of the pota-
toes was done from the beginning to the end of April.

On a fine day, when the soil was fairly dry, the rows
were measured off at 2 feet apart (from left to right) and
sticks placed at the ends of the rows.

Beginning with the first row a line was stretched from
one end to the other and a trench one spit deep (about
10 inches) was dug out. Into the trench was put J cwt.
of half-rotted stable manure with a quantity of decayed
vegetable refuse and the ashes of burnt garden refuse.
This was thoroughly mixed (using a fork) with some of
the soil of the second spit and some of the surface soil
which was thrown out in the making of the trench.
After thoroughly mixing, the compost was spread
evenly in the bottom of the trench, which was now
about 6 inches deep and ready for the seed tubers.

The tubers were carefully examined before they were
planted ; those weighing from 1 to 2 oz. and with not
more than two shoots, had a small piece cut from the

38 ALLOTMENT GAKDENS

heel end of each tuber. The cut part of the tuber was
then dipped into powdered quicklime.

Sets weighing over 2 oz. each, and with three or four
shoots, were cut lengthwise, the cut parts being simi-
larly treated to the above.

The sets were laid carefully out in the trenches at an
angle of about 45 degrees, and one way. The distance
from set to set was approximately 16 inches, or 96 sets
from one pole of ground.

They were then covered about 2 inches deep with soil
from the edges of the trenches, taken off in a slanting
manner and broken up into fine even particles, so as to
get a thoroughly aerated surface soil directly touching
the tuber to encourage its start. The trenches were
finally filled up and levelled off with the soil which was
left when the trenches were first dug.

A dressing of superphosphate was then scattered over
the soil, a quantity of 2 oz. to the square yard, or 4 lb.
per square pole of ground.

Nothing more was done till the plants were up in row,
which was in about three or four weeks' time.

Manuring and hoeing. — As soon as the plants were
up in row, advantage was taken of the first fine day
when the soil was fairly dry to flat-hoe between the
plants and between the rows.

On the first showery day after the hoeing, a dressing
of equal quantities of sulphate of potash 1 and sulphate
of ammonia at the rate of 1 oz. to the square yard, or
2 lb. per square pole of ground.

Care was taken not to sprinkle the manure on the
leaves.

1 When sulphate of potash cannot be bought, wood ashes are a good
substitute.

SOWING AND PLANTING 39

The ground was flat-hoed once a week from the time
the plants were up in row till the time they were earthed
up — a matter of three to four weeks.

Earthing up. — The earthing or moulding up of the
late sorts of potatoes was done twice, at an interval of
about a fortnight.

Great care was exercised in doing it. (1) A fine day
was chosen when the soil was in a workable condition ;
(2) the soil was brought up from midway between the
rows of potatoes so as not to cut off or injure the plants
or roots ; (3) the soil was broken up evenly and into
moderately sized particles —not brought up and left in
large and irregular lumps ; (4) the tops of the ridges
when finished off were roughly semi-circular in shape.

By this method of earthing up, very few tubers grew
out of the soil ; and potatoes earthed up in this way
are very much less subject to disease.

If, after a heavy rain, the soil on the ridges had been
beaten down and was likely to become ' caked ', a rake
was lightly drawn over them from the bottom of the
ridges upwards.

After the final earthing up, the depth of the trenches
between the rows was approximately from eight to
ten inches. The soil in the trenches or furrows was hoed
once or twice till the growth of the potato haulm was
too big. Weeds were not allowed to grow at any time.
As soon as a weed, likely to interfere with the growth of
the crop, was seen, it was pulled out.

Prevention of disease. — A watchful eye was kept for
the potato disease. As soon as a diseased leaf appeared,
it was at once cut off. Where the haulm was thick it
was well thinned out (judiciously of course) to admit
light and air. This treatment retarded the development
of the disease.

40 ALLOTMENT GAKDENS

At the end of August the whole of the haulm was
cut off.

Lifting the crop. — Some of the roots of the early
variety Harbinger were lifted the last week in June.

The whole of the crop of the three varieties was
lifted hy the end of September.

Particulars of the varieties, with yields :

Variety. HARBINGER. ECLIPSE. RELIANCE.

Season. Early. Early. Late.

Shape. Round. Kidney. Kidney.

Planted. Apr. 1 to 8. Apr. 10 to 18. Apr. 20 to 30.

Quantities planted. 10 Ib. 10£ Ib. 10 J Ib.

No. of sets. 96. 96. 96.

Lifted. June and July. Aug. and Sept. Sept.

Total yield. 384 Ib. 392 Ib. 432 Ib.

Area. 1 pole. 1 pole. 1 pole.

The small and diseased tubers were very few.

Radish. Eadishes delight in a rich, moist, warm soil.
They should be grown quickly and eaten when young.
For early crops out of doors sow in February and March
on a south border on beds 4 feet wide ; rake the soil
down fine, sow the seed broadcast and cover with about
an inch of finely sifted soil, or rake the seed in and cover
with straw, which can be raked off after germination and
used at nights only in severe weather.

Make successional sowings at intervals of ten days to
a fortnight.

Early thinning of the plants is very important, for
those crowded make plenty of top but no root.

An ounce of 'seed will sow 60 square feet.

The plants will mature in from six to eight weeks.

From trials of a great many varieties we can recom-
mend : ' Eed and White Turnip-rooted,' ' Scarlet Olive/
' French Breakfast '.

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42 ALLOTMENT GARDENS

Spinach (Round) should be sown from February to
May in deep and well-cultivated and manured ground
in rows 12 inches apart. The seed sown in drills
1 inch deep and the plants afterwards thinned out to
6 inches apart. The crop takes 6 to 8 weeks to mature.

Tomato. To grow tomatoes successfully out of doors
the seeds must be sown under glass, and healthy, strong
plants procured for planting out.

Sow the seeds on a hotbed or in a heated greenhouse
any time during the first fortnight in March. Prick out
the seedlings when large enough to handle and grow the
plants steadily, giving plenty of air on all favourable
occasions, till about the first week in June, when they
can be safely planted outside, either against a south wall
or in the open ; if the latter, plant in double rows 2 feet
apart, the lines forming the double rows being 18 inches
apart and the plants 2 feet apart in the lines and planted
alternately — thus

• 2ft. • 2ft. •

The soil must not be over rich for tomatoes, or leaf
and branch will take the place of fruit. Plant firmly
and tie each plant to a stake about 4 feet in height.

During growth pinch out all side-shoots, and when the
plants have reached the top of the stakes pinch out the
leader or growing-point.

After the fruit is set and the plants are rooted, mulch
with horse-droppings and feed with farmyard liquid
manure or a little chemical manure.

The approximate time from the sowing of the seed to

SOWING AND PLANTING 43

the ripening of the fruit is twenty weeks. From exten-
sive trials during the last thirty years, the following
varieties have succeeded well out of doors, viz. ' Main-
crop,' ' Earliest of All,' ' Open Air,' ' Eclipse,' and
'Al'.

Turnip. Turnips should be sown in a rich moist soil.
Get a fine tilth, then draw drills 1 foot apart and 1 inch
deep ; sow the seed very thinly. One ounce of seed will
sow a 200-foot row. Thin the plants to 8 inches apart.

Periodical sowings may be made from March till
August.

The turnips will be ready for use in about eight weeks
from the time of sowing.

'Early Snowball', 'Green Top White', and 'Orange
Jelly ' are good varieties to grow for successional
sowings.

Vegetable Marrow. The vegetable marrow is very
easy of cultivation and does not require the elaborate
preparations some make in heaping up above the ground-
level several loads of manure. Place in some corner of
the garden all the refuse possible, on to which put
6 inches of ordinary garden soil.

The first week in May plant in this preparation seeds
12 inches apart and 2 inches deep.

When the young plants come up thin out to 3 feet
apart and protect from frost. When the plants are well
established and the leaders 2 to 3 feet long, pinch out the
growing-points. Stop the lateral shoots one leaf beyond
the fruit. Keep the plants well supplied with water and
feed liberally with farmyard liquid manure. Cut the
fruits when young and tender, which will prolong the
fruiting period.

Good varieties to grow are ' White Bush '. ' Pen-y-
byd ', ' Long Green ', and 'Long Cream '.

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VEGETABLE GAKDEN PESTS

INSECTS

Black or Collier fly attacks the broad beans, especially
in hot dry seasons. The insects injure the plants by
attacking the young growth, or tops of the stems.

X 10

Bean Aphis (Aphis fabae — Pupa and Female).

[Copyright 8. & 8.

The sap, running from the numerous punctures which
they make by inserting their probosces into the soft
tissues, accumulates on the stems, giving the plants
a dirty-looking appearance. .

Autumn or early spring planting of the best seed, com-
bined with good cultivation, is to be recommended. If,
however, in spite of this treatment the tops are attacked,
which is very likely, cut them off and burn.

Frequent syringing with soap-suds and soft-soap and
water, adding one wineglassful of paraffin to each gallon
of liquid, will do good. When paraffin is added keep it
thoroughly mixed by stirring when applying.

46 ALLOTMENT GAKDENS

Green flies are in some seasons found in very large
numbers on the leaves, particularly the under side, of
cabbages and other plants belonging to the Brassica
section. Leaves very badly attacked should be burned.

Dusting the plants with lime or soot and syringing
with soap- washes will do good.

Beetles. The Broad Bean beetle is to be found in
most seasons.

The maggots live on the fleshy material in the seed.

At planting time the fully-matured insect will often
be found in the seed ; the presence of the beetles is

Wireworm (Elater).

[Copyright S. & S.

generally recognized by discol6ured patches of the skin
about the size of a pin's head, under which they are
to be found.

Dipping the seed in boiling water for one minute is
said to be sure death to the beetles, without injury to
the seed, but it is not so good or safe as hand-picking.

Click Beetles. In the larval or maggot stage the four
species of Click Beetles (known as the wireworm, which
is said to live in the larval condition from three to five
years) do a great amount of injury to carrots, potatoes,
and other crops. A dressing of gas-lime, 14 to 20 lb.
to a pole of ground, spread on in the autumn is an old
remedy. A dressing of kainit applied any time through
the winter, at the rate of 2 to 3 lb. to the pole, has in
many cases proved effectual in destroying wireworm.

VEGETABLE GAKDEN PESTS 47

To sow mustard as a catch-crop and dig it in in the
sjpring is a good thing.

A dressing of Homco Eape Meal after thinning out is
an excellent remedy.

Turnip Flea Beetle. In very hot, dry summers it is
difficult to get good turnips, owing to the presence of
this pest.

Early and late sowing, good cultivation, freedom
from weeds, especially those which belong to the same
family as the turnip, and high feeding, do much to
ensure a crop.

Frequent dressings of soot and finely powdered lime
will check ravages of the beetle.

Weevils. The Cabbage and Turnip Gall Weevil is
easily recognized by causing the large knobs to form on
turnips and swedes, in which, if cut open, would be found
the thick, fleshy, wrinkled maggots, and on the stem
of cabbages and other Brassica below the surface of the
soil, preventing in this case true root formation. By
many this knob formation is considered a form of, and
is called, Club-root, though really it is not so.

It is advisable to adopt a system of rotation of crops,
so as to avoid growing the same kinds of crops on the
same piece of ground two years in succession.

Plant nothing but healthy plants free from galls on
their stems.

It is a good plan before planting to dip the roots in
a mixture of clay and soot.

Pea Weevils, of which there are several species, are
in some seasons very injurious by destroying the
foliage of young pea and bean plants. Dressings of
soot should be frequently given round and amongst
the plants.

48 ALLOTMENT GARDENS

Encourage rapid growth of the plants by good
cultivation. •

Butterflies and Moths. The caterpillars of these
cabbage pests do, in some seasons, irreparable damage.

It is sometimes extremely difficult to keep them in
check. Cleanliness is one of the chief factors ; do not
allow rubbish of any kind to accumulate wherein the
caterpillars can hibernate.

Syringeing or watering the plants with soap-suds
prevents the butterflies and moths from laying eggs on
them. As the underside of the leaves is generally chosen
for this purpose special attention should be given to
wetting this part, which it is admittedly difficult always
to do.

Hand-picking of the caterpillars, though tedious, is
an excellent method for reducing the ravages caused by
them.

Pea Moth. In some seasons peas are infested with
maggots, though little account is taken of them.

When such is the case burn the haulm or straw and
also the peas. When the peas are ready for use gather
the pods at once ; do not allow them to get old.

Bury to a good depth the surface soil infested with
chrysalids ; in this way the moths are prevented from
coming out.

FLIES.

Snowy Fly. This small, frail, four- winged, snow-like
fly attacks cabbages, tomatoes, and other plants.

In some seasons it is very plentiful, whilst in others
it is not seen.

Syringings with soap-washes, tobacco-water, or
quassia extract, soon destroy the flies.

VEGETABLE GARDEN PESTS 49

Carrot Fly. The presence of this pest is outwardly
recognized by the leaves turning yellow and withering.

On examination of the young carrots, larvae or mag-
gots will be found in and protruding from the roots.

The material thrown out by the burrowing of the
maggots into the roots is of a rusty or yellowish colour,
from which it gets the name of carrot ' rust '.

Thorough winter preparation of the ground, thin
sowing of the seed, and early thinning are preventive

Carrot Fly, Psila rosae (with Maggot and Chrysalis).

[Copyright S. <fc 8

methods in so far that they encourage rapid, strong,
healthy growth.

Add gas-lime to the soil in winter at the rate of 14 to
21 lb. per pole of ground. Allow it to lie on the top
after ridging, rough digging, or trenching, at least six
weeks before mixing it with the soil.

Use wood ashes with the seed at sowing time. Dress-
ings of soot after thinning the plants will prove effective
in reducing the damage which would be caused by the fly.

Celery and Parsnip Fly. This fly punctures the young
tender leaves of the plants and lays between the two
skins eggs from which larvae or maggots appear.

In some seasons the leaves are tunnelled with these
so-called * miner ' maggots.

50 ALLOTMENT GAEDENS

The pinching of the maggots with thumb and finger
when seen on the leaves will, if followed up, keep them
well in check.

Dressings of soot and syringings with soap-suds and
other washes make the leaves distasteful to the insect.

The celery plants should not be allowed to become
dry at the root.

Frequent syringings of the plants in the evenings of
hot, dry days will do good, promoting healthy and rapid
growth.

Celery Fly and Larva (Tepkritis onopordinis).

[Copyright 8. <k S.

Onion Fly. The injury it does to the young onions "at
the base of the stem is well known.

The first indication of its presence is generally shown
by the leaves turning yellow and then drooping. To
reduce the chances of an attack of this pest to a mini-
mum, well trench and heavily manure the soil, get the
best seed, sow thinly, thin early, and feed liberally.

If then you fail, sow along with the seed in the drill
fine sand soaked in paraffin ; and when the plants are
thinned, firm the soil by treading; or, where the soil is
light and the plants are not too forward, put over it a
light wooden roller. Then syringe or water the plants

VEGETABLE GARDEN PESTS 51

overhead occasionally with soap-suds or a paraffin
emulsion made of 1 wineglassful of paraffin, 1 oz. of
soft-soap, and 1 gallon of water ; keep it well mixed
when using.

Pull up and burn all plants suffering with the maggot.

If you fail after all these methods have been tried,
resort to autumn sowing and transplanting in the follow-
ing April into well-prepared ground. This system of
cultivation is practically proof against the maggot of
this fly.

Onion Fly (Anthomyia ceparum).

[Copyright 8. & S.

Slugs and Snails, of which there are several species, do
a great amount of damage to nearly all young growing
crops. The crops they frequent should be kept well
dressed with soot, salt, or lime.

They can be trapped by laying about cabbage and
lettuce leaves, slices of turnip, &c., which should be
examined daily and the pests killed.

Eelworms. ^Cucumbers and other plants frequently
suffer with stem eelworm. The mode of attack is for
the eelworms to puncture the roots and then lay their
eggs in the punctures.

From these eggs emerge the eelworms which quickly
traverse the inside of the stems, causing the plants to

D2

52 ALLOTMENT GAEDENS

wilt and die. These punctures bring up nodules, warts,
or swellings on the roots.

A magnifying glass is required to make these pests
visible.

There appears to be no remedy. All the attacked
plants should be burnt, and also the soil in which the
plants were growing.

Woodlice do a lot of harm by gnawing the tender
shoots of plants.

Boiling water will effect a clearance of this pest where
it can be used without injury to the plants. They can be
trapped by slices of potato, or moss, or old hay, put into
pots which should then be inverted and stood about in
places they frequent. Examine these traps daily and
destroy all woodlice caught in them.

Ants often prove troublesome.

When their nests can be found, boiling water will
destroy them.

Dressing the crops with soot or syringing with soap-
washes will drive ants away.

Centipedes are considered useful rather than harmful,
as they feed on injurious insects and destroy decompos-
ing animal matter.

Millipedes, on the other hand, live chiefly on vege-
table matter, doing injury to tuberous and bulbous
plants.

Soot and lime should be freely mixed with the soil
where these pests are.

They can be trapped by decaying vegetable matter,
such as leaves of cabbage, potato tubers, &c.

Rats and Mice must be trapped or poisoned by one or
other of the many traps and poisons made and sold for
the purpose.

VEGETABLE GAKDEN PESTS 53

Birds, although doing a little harm occasionally, are
really useful in a garden in eating insects of various
kinds.

They can generally be kept off beet, peas, &c., by
putting a few lines of black cotton along the rows.

DISEASES

A disease known by the name of Club-root, producing
large swellings of unnatural growth and preventing true
root formation, attacks not only the cabbage but other
plants, cultivated and wild, which belong to the cabbage-
plant order. Some soils are entirely free from the
disease, whilst others are thoroughly permeated with it.

Where the latter is the case it is difficult to successfully
grow a good crop of any ' brassica ' plant.

Weeds should be kept down and diseased plants
should be burnt.

Endeavour to starve out the disease by not growing
a cabbage-plant on the soil for some years.

A dressing of burnt lime, 28-56 lb. to 1 pole of ground,
mixed with the soil in the autumn or early winter, does
good.

The Onion Mildew is known to almost every grower.
The disease is first recognized by the yellow patches on
the leaves, followed by a white, dust-like bloom, which,
if not checked, results in the wilting and dying of the
leaves.

Soils and seasons have their influence on the presence
or absence of the disease.

Autumn-sown plants are less liable to be attacked by
it, and if attacked suffer in a less degree than spring-
sown.

54

ALLOTMENT GAEDENS

Onions should be grown in an open, airy place and in
deeply cultivated and well-manured soils.

Use the best seed only, sow thinly, giving plenty
of room between the rows, and thin early to at least
3 inches apart and finally to 6 inches apart. Keep down
the weeds and promote quick growth by frequent hoeing.

On the first appearance of the disease syringe the
plants with either sulphide of potassium (liver of

Fungus of Finger and Toe Disease (Plasmodiophora Irassicae).

[Copyright S. & S.

sulphur), \ oz. to 1 gallon of water ,| with a little soft-
soap dissolved in the liquid to make it adhere to the
leaves, or with the ' Bordeaux mixture ' which is made
from sulphate of copper 1 lb. and lime 1 tb. to 8 gallons
of water. Dissolve and mix in a wooden vessel and
apply in a very fine spray, by means of a syringe or
Eclair, wetting every part of the leaf.

The Potato Disease is in damp, close, sunless seasons
often very prevalent.

VEGETABLE GAEDEN PESTS 55

Its appearance is shown by the brown spots on the
leaves, which in a bad attack soon turn mildewy, then
black, the leaves curling up, emitting a strong, pungent
smell as they decay or die.

Plant strong healthy tubers, as sets, of varieties which
have been proved to be the least susceptible to the
disease. Give plenty of air-space between the rows and
the tubers in the rows.

The ' Burgundy Mixture ', if timely applied and the
season is not too showery, will keep the disease in check

X'lOO-

Fungus of Pea-Mildew (Erisiphe Martii).

[Copyright S. & 8.

and promote a long period of growth, thereby gaining
an increased yield of crop.

Two and sometimes three syringings may be neces-
sary to really check the disease.

The approximate cost of each dressing, inclusive of
labour and materials, is 10s. per acre.

Do not allow diseased haulm and tubers to rot on
the ground, but see they are destroyed by burning.

* Burgundy Mixture ' is made from sulphate of copper
1 ft>., and washing soda 1 J lb., to 10 gallons of water.
Dissolve the copper sulphate in a wooden vessel, in
1 gallon of water, and the washing soda in 9 gallons, in

56 ALLOTMENT GARDENS

another vessel, and use the mixture as soon as possible
after mixing, as it precipitates. The separate solutions
keep quite well until mixed.

The Pea Mildew, which works great havoc with late
peas, especially in dry summers and on light soils, can
to •some 'extent be prevented by sowing the seeds thinly

^.

A1

The ' Black-Spot ' Disease of Tomatoes (Cladosporium lycopersici).

[Copyright 8. & 8.

in trenches in which plenty of half-decayed manure has
been worked into the soil.

After the pods form, if the season is dry, give the
plants a thorough soaking with rain-water, then mulch
the ground with manure or lawn grass clippings after
mowing.

If the mildew does appear, syringe with sulphide of
potassium, % oz. to 1 gallon of water.

CALENDAR OF GARDENING OPERATIONS

JANUARY

Vegetables. — Manure, dig and trench vacant vege-
table ground. Dig in mustard crops.

FEBRUARY

Vegetables. — Plant Broad Beans in rows 2 feet apart
and the Beans 4 inches to 5 inches apart in the rows ; or
plant in rows 3 feet apart, with double rows of Beans
9 inches apart each way.

MARCH

Vegetables. — A sowing of Celery (' White Gem ') for
an early crop should be made under glass. Sowings of
Brussels Sprouts (' The Wroxton '), Cauliflower (' Early
Dwarf Erfurt '), Cabbage (' Earliest of All '), Leek
(' Prize-taker '), and Lettuce ('All the Year Round ')
can be made in the open.

Sow Parsnips (' Tender and True ' or ' The Student ')
in deeply dug soil which was manured last year, in rows
15 inches apart, covering the seed 1 inch. One ounce of
seed will sow a 200- foot row.

Sow Radishes thinly on a rich, warm soil, and cover
the seed about 1 inch deep.

The Onion bed prepared in the early winter should
now be raked down and a firm, fine, even surface

58 ALLOTMENT GAKDENS

obtained ; then draw drills 1 foot apart and half an
inch deep. Sow the seed thinly and, after filling in the
drills, firm down the bed and rake over the surface
lightly to take out the footmarks. One ounce of seed
will sow a 200-foot drill.

Plant Shallots in rows 1 foot apart, pressing in the
bulbs to half their depth at 9 inches apart in the
rows.

Make a successional sowing of Broad Beans.

Make two or three sowings of Peas at intervals of ten
to fourteen days.

Divide Khubarb roots and plant them 3 feet or 4 feet
apart each way in deeply trenched and well manured
ground.

APRIL

Vegetables. — Sow the Globe or Turnip-rooted Beet
for an early crop, in drills 1 inch deep and 12 inches
apart. Successional crops of Broad Beans, Peas,
Kadishes, and Lettuces should be sown. Sowings of
Broccoli, Kale, and Savoys should be made.

Carrots : ' Early Gem ' and ' Favourite ' should be
sown in rows 1 foot apart, in drills half an inch deep, in
trenched or deeply dug soil that has been well raked
down and a fine tilth obtained.

A sowing of Celery, * A 1 ' (red), can be made outside
on a warm border.

Potatoes should be planted as time and weather will
allow. For the early varieties plant in rows 20 inches
apart, putting the tubers 4 inches deep and 12 inches
apart in the row. For late varieties 2 to 3 feet apart of
the rows, tubers 15 to 18 inches apart in the rows arid
4 to 6 inches deep can be given.

CALENDAE OF OPEEATIONS 59

Early Snowball Turnip should be sown in well
manured ground in rows 12 inches apart. Cover the
seed 1 inch deep. Sow round Spinach in drills 1 foot
apart and 1 inch deep. Thin to 6 inches apart.

MAY

Vegetables. — Sow Blood Ked and Pine Apple Beet
for the main crop. Sow in drills 1 foot apart and 1 inch
deep.

Successional sowings of Peas, Radishes, and Lettuces
should be made.

Sow Dwarf Beans (' Canadian Wonder ') 2 inches deep
in rich sandy loam and in rows 2 feet apart. Thin the
plants to 12 inches apart.

Prepare Celery trenches.

Plant out into drills in showery weather Cabbages and
Cauliflowers in rows 2 feet apart, and the plants 18 inches
apart in the row.

Plant out Lettuces 1 foot apart each way when large
enough to handle.

Sowings of Savoys ('Earliest' or 'Perfection'), Kale
('A 1 '), and Broccoli ('Late Queen' or ' Latest of All')
should be made.

Harden off gradually Tomatoes for planting out early
in June. Thin Onions, Carrots, Parsnips, and Beet as
required.

Herbs. — Sow Dill, Fennel, Pot Marigold, Sweet Mar-
joram, Eosemary, and Eue.

Propagate Horehound, Mint, Sage, Pot Marjoram,
and Thyme by cuttings.

60 ALLOTMENT GAEDENS

JUNE

Vegetables. — Make successional sowings of Spinach,
Lettuce, Dwarf Beans, Runner Beans, and Peas ;
' Early Giant ' and ' Gradus ' are good varieties of Peas
to sow now.

Plant out in showery weather Celery, Cauliflower,
Broccoli, Brussel Sprouts, &c.

JULY

Vegetables. — Make successional sowings of Dwarf
Beans, Turnips, Radishes, and Lettuces.

Plant out Celery, Leeks, and winter greens without
delay. Fill up the ground after early Potatoes and
Peas with crops of a different kind, not having the same
habit of growth and requiring the same methods of
cultivation.

Tomatoes outside should be liberally fed and mulched
with horse-droppings. Keep the side-shoots pinched
out.

Vegetable Marrows should have strong vigorous
shoots stopped.

Keep down weeds. Water and feed crops liberally.

A sowing of Parsley should be made for winter use.

Herbs. — Cut when coming into flower.

AUGUST

Vegetables. — Make two sowings of Cabbage at an
interval of a fortnight. Either ' Flower of Spring' or
Sutton's ' April ' will do. Sow Brussels Sprouts for an
early supply of buttons next autumn. Earth up Celery

CALENDAE OF OPERATIONS 61

when the growth is well advanced. Be careful soil does
not get into the hearts of the plants.

Sow Winter White Cos Lettuce and Brown Spanish
Onion. Sow Turnips : ' Snowball ' for a white and ' All
the Year Bound ' for a yellow flesh.

SEPTEMBER

Vegetables. — Earth up Celery and Leeks, selecting a
dry time for the work. Plant out Cabbages sown in
July and August on ground where Potatoes have been
dug.

Sow mustard on vacant ground for digging in in
January and February.

OCTOBER

Vegetables. — Lift and store in * pit ' or frost-proof
place Potatoes, Carrots, Beet, &c. Lift carefully ;
don't fork or bruise the tubers and roots. Select and
grade before storing.

Celery and Leeks, when dry and the weather is
favourable, may be earthed up if not already done.

When the ground is cleared of Onions, hoe and rake
off the weeds, put down a line (18 inches from row to
row)» and with a dibber make holes 12 inches apart
and 4 inches deep, then plant or drop a Leek into each
hole. These will be useful next April and May.

NOVEMBER

Vegetables. — When the weather is favourable and the
plants are dry Celery may still be earthed up if not
already done.

62 ALLOTMENT GAEDENS

See that Onions are well ripened and thoroughly dry
before being put away.

Asparagus beds should be cleaned without delay ; cut
down the dead stems, remove weeds, lightly point or
prick over the surface, being careful not to injure the
crowns, and give a good dressing of rotten manure,
which should have a thin covering of soil.

Earth up Leeks. Trench and prepare the ground to
receive all the benefits possible by a winter's exposure.

As the Broccoli turn in, head the plants to the north,
covering the flower with a few leaves to protect from
rain, light, and frost.

DECEMBER

Vegetables. — Trench and dig the ground as it becomes
vacant, leaving it rough for the winter frosts to break
down.

Parsnips can be lifted and stored in dry sand, or they
can be pitted.

Cover Parsley with hand-lights for winter use.

PRINTED IN ENGLAND
AT THE OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS

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complete, and the illustrations . . . strikingly represent the subjects dealt with. £.
•< quired for every county. . . and this book may be taken as the pe;.;
for such a work.' — The Scottish Farmer.

Allotments and Small Holdings in Oxfordshire.

A. W. ASHBY. 8vo, pp. 198. 5s. net.

' It is no exaggeration to say that this is one of the most instructive books that!4
been published on its particular subject. . . . Exceedingly valuable to those with liiv
experience, and indeed to all those who are eager to learn from others and to imp,,-
their own methods.'— Tin F-M.

' . . , The sanest and most informing discussion of the small holding question
we have seen. Mr. Ashby is neither unduly optimistic nor needlessly depress*

The Tim

•To students of rural life the volume can be strongly recommended. The auth
a careful and competent observer. He preserves a good balance in statement, an;
ng in theories.'— G la sgow Herald,

The Determination of Farming Costs. By c, S. ORVJ

8vo. In the press.

Makers
Syracuse, N. Y

" PAT. JAN. 21 ,1908

380638

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY