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EMBRACING

DIRECTIONS FOR THE TREATMENT OF THE VINE, IN THE NORTHERN
STATES OF AMERICA, IN THE OPEN AIR, AND UNDER GLASS
STRUCTURES, WITH AND WITHOUT ARTIFICIAL HEAT,

BOSTON:

DUTTON AND WENTWORTH, PRINTERS,
CONGRESS STREET.

1847,

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INTRODUCTION.

THERE are several works published in England,
written by practical men, giving ample directions for
the cultivation of the grape in that country; but the
climate of the Northern States of America is so differ-
ent from that of England, that, however well calculated
these directions may be for the latter, they can hardly
be expected to suit the former. The temperature of
England is milder, and is not subject to the great ex-
tremes of heat and cold which we experience. ‘The
searching northwesterly winds, which prevail with us
in New England in the winter and early spring months,
with the mercury often at zero, and even below that
point, and the sudden changes we are hable to, in this
season of the year, often equal to forty degrees in
a few hours, render the care requisite, for the success-
ful forced culture of fruit, very great, and the process
amore difficult one, in this country, than in England.

Do not build a grapery under the erroneous impres-
sion, that, having done so, and planted the vines, you
have secured to yourself, without further labor, a boun-
titul supply of fruit; if you do so, you must be sadly
disappointed.

Probably there is no plant so sure of yielding an
annual crop as the grape, under right management ;
but this is absolutely necessary, to ensure success.

4 INTRODUCTION.

The attempt has been made to give plain rules,
which may be easily understood, and the practical
operation of which can be carried out with as little
labor as the proper cultivation of the grape, under
glass, will permit.

The following directions are intended for those who
may desire to cultivate this fruit, for their own pleasure
or convenience, and do not wish to mcur the expense
of a regularly educated gardener, and who have felt
the want of a concise and simple explanation of the
process, and the rules by which these operations of
forcing and of growing grapes, under glass structures,
can be carried out.

The treatment recommended is such as has been
found to be the best, after many years’ experience, in
its cultivation ; during which time, the different systems
of pruning have been all tried, and many of the vine-
yards in France, and on the Rhine, in Italy, and other
countries have been visited, and the manner of pruning,
the varieties of soil, and the amount of fruit which a
vine is permitted to ripen, have been examined and
ascertained.

The disadvantages we labor under, in this country,
in forcmg fruit, from the extreme coldness of the
weather in winter, are counterbalanced, in some de-
gree, by the superior brilhancy of the sun, and conse-
quent dryness of the atmosphere, at the time of
ripening, which gives a flavor to the fruit, such as it can
rarely be made to attaim,in the moist, dull, and cloudy
weather of England. The variations of the temperature
are always indicated by a Fahrenheit thermometer.

THE

CUbLU RE OF THE GRAPE.

THE GRAPERY.

F'rrst in order, and of the utmost importance, is the
situation of the house. It must be so located, that
stagnant water will not remain on the border, or within
reach of the roots of the vine.

If you cannot avoid building the house where water
is found to stand two or three feet under the surface,
then the soil should be thrown out, the whole length
and breadth of the border, eighteen inches deep, and
the bottom paved, with stone or brick, so as effectually
to prevent the roots penetrating through it, to the
water. Make the border on this, as directed hereafter ;
this will raise the top of the soil eighteen inches above
the level of the adjoining surface.

The house should front the south; a slight varia-
tion, provided it is to the east, so as to receive the
morning sun, will be no objection.*

The common lean to house is the best for forcing ;
from thirteen to fifteen feet high on the back, four

* Cultivators of the grape have usually advised this position for the
front of the house; several persons, who have had practical experience,
would prefer that it should front south ten or fifteen degrees east, or even
south southeast.

6 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

feet on the front, and twelve feet wide on the inside,
are suitable proportions; the length of it can be as
desired, from twenty to one hundred feet, or more.

The front of the house should be framed, the sills
standing on, and secured to, stone, or locust posts, set
four or five feet under ground, and eight feet apart,
thus giving the roots freedom to roam at their pleas-
ure. The floor of the house should be on a level with
the surface of the border. The back wall may be
either of brick or wood. If the house is to be used
for forcing fruit, it should have a double wall on the
back. A span-roofed house is the best for a cold
grapery. It should be, above the sills, on all sides of
glass, and of the following dimensions :—twenty feet
wide, and of any length desired; the upright sides
above the sills, six feet high; the rafters should be
twelve feet long; this will make the height of the
house, at the ridge-pole, or centre, on the inside, four-
teen feet. ‘The sills must be secured to stone, or locust
posts, placed eight feet apart, and sufficiently deep in
the soil to be free from danger of being thrown by the
frost. Place the house fronting south southeast. You
may plant three sets of vines,—one in the centre, and
one on each side. Upon a house of this description,
the sun’s rays will rest from morning until evening,
and the crop will come rapidly to maturity.

PREPARATION OF THE BORDER.

The border should be twenty feet wide, for each set
of vines,—if thirty feet, the better,—and two and a
half or three feet deep; if you have but little room,

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. y

you can manage to grow very fair grapes with twelve
feet. of border; but, in this case, you must not plant
the vines so close together. The following course is
recommended in preparing the border :—

If the soil is a good loam, begin at one end find
trench it; mark off ten feet the entire width; throw
out the soil two feet deep; if bones, or the carcases
of animals can be had, cover the bottom well with
them; if these are not readily procured, slaughter-
house manure may be substituted; mark off ten feet
more of the border, and cover this manure with part
of the soil from it; upon this, put an inch or two of
oyster shells, or old lime rubbish, mixed with broken
bricks ; over this, put some soil from the border; then
a good covering of cow manure; upon this, a slight
covering of loam again, followed with a good portion
of oyster shells, or the substitute; and over this, a
thick covering of stable manure, well rotted; finish
with a covering of the loam. The whole length is to
be made in this manner, in alternate spaces of ten feet
each trenching. After itis finished, the border should
be three feet six inches deep; it will settle to less than
three feet in a few months; any soil left, after it is
finished, can be carried off.

The proportions recommended for this border, are
one half loam, one fourth bones, or other strong ma-
nure, one eighth oyster shells, or lime and brick rub-
bish, and one eighth rotten stable manure.

Before planting the vines, the border should be
spaded over, to mix well the top substances, being
careful not to disturb the strong manures at bottom.

8 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

Should the soil be poor, decrease the proportion used
in preparing the border, and, in the same ratio, increase
the manures, or substitute the top soil of a loamy
pasture.

If the soil is very poor, or unsuitable for the pur-
pose, so as to require to be removed entirely, then a
compost prepared thus, is recommended :—one half to
be the top soil of an old pasture; one quarter to be
bones, or some other strong manure; one eighth oys-
ter shells, or hme and brick rubbish ; one eighth rotten
manure ; these articles thrown together in a heap, and
so to remain until decomposed and amalgamated, when
they should be placed in the border, and thrown loosely
together.

If it 1s mtended to plant vines, to be traimed on the
back wall, the soil on the inside of the house must be
prepared, as directed above.

If figs are to be planted, the same border is rec-
ommended.

Peaches do not require a rich border, and for them
the natural soil will be suitable.

To improve a poorly made, or exhausted border, in
a house already built, where the vines do not suc-
ceed well, the followmg process is recommended as
best adapted to cure the original defect :—

In the sprmg, have the border covered with two or
three inches of hme rubbish, or oyster shells ; let this
be forked into, and well mixed with, the soil; after
this, have the whole border covered, two feet deep,
with fresh stable manure,—the newer the better; the
object beg to cause a strong heat above the roots of

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 9

the vine, thus drawing them to the surface. This
should remain on the border two months, when it may
be removed. It is probable, the young roots will have
penetrated the border, and be growing in the under
part of the manure; if so, these must not be injured,
for if they should, the benefit expected from the opera-
tion would be lost; when it is found that this is the
case, that part of the manure must remain on. After
removing the manure, the border should have a top
dressing of three or four mches of well decomposed
cow or hog pen manure.

PLANTING THE VINES.

In planting, which is the next operation, open a
hole sufficiently wide to admit of the roots bemg spread
out to their entire length ; care must be taken to spread
out all the roots separately, without myury to the small
ones, and do not let them overlay or interfere with each
other; make the soil fine, and cover them with an
inch or two of it; with a rose watering-pot, settle the
soil and roots, by giving them a thorough watering ;
finish covering, and do not water them again. ‘They
should be planted about three inches under the sur-
face, and three feet apart; if the border is only twelve
feet wide, five feet is near enough. If the house has
been built on posts, as directed, let the head of the
vine, after planting, be three inches from the front, on
the imside,—the roots bemg on the outside. If the
vines are planted in the fall, they should be cut back
to three eyes immediately ; but, if planted im the spring,

2

s

10 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

they must be allowed to grow until the shoots are one
inch long, when rub off all but the three lower shoots.

VINES FOR PLANTING.

The vines for planting should be in pots, and one or
two years old; before planting, they should be kept quite
dry a few days, as the roots are more easily separated.

If the plants are growing, leave off watering them
until they begin to droop, when you can plant them
out; the risk of mjurmg them will be lessened, and
the free watering, after the roots are spread out, will
immediately settle them in their position, and they
will grow rapidly.

If grown on the place, or to be obtained near, young
plants, in pots, just rooted, can be used. ‘Turn them
out with the ball of earth entire, and plant, without dis-
turbing the roots, on the inside, near the front of the
house. I have planted such vines, and they have come
into bearing as soon as older ones; they are to be pre-
ferred to old vines, as the latter are very much injured
in transplanting, if they have been growing in the open
border ; if in pots, the roots are so matted together,
that, in separating them, many will be broken off.

TREATMENT OF THE VINES.

First Year.
The first year, they should not be forced, but allowed
to push naturally as the season advances.
In the vicinity of Boston, they will push their buds
early in April; let the shoots from the three eyes grow

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 11

until they are two or three feet long; train up the
leading one to the roof, and stop the other two, by’
pinching off the end of each; the leading cane must
be stopped, when it reaches the top of the rafters ;
the vine will be strengthened, by allowing it to
make a free growth; after September, stop all shoots
as they push, that the vine may the better ripen the
wood.

Early in the spring, throw open the house and give
air freely, continuing to do so during the season, when
the mercury is above freezing; it is best to shut up
the house at night, leaving one or two lights a little
open, to let the moisture escape.

After the leaves have fallen, which will be im Octo-
ber, or early i November, cut back the two spurs to
one eye, or bud, each, and the long cane to two eyes.
If any imsect has been troublesome, wash the vines,
carefully, with soap suds, moderately strong. ‘The first
of December, protect the vines for the winter, by a
covering of straw, or Russia mats; the border must
also be covered with seaweed, or coarse litter, to pro-
tect the roots from frost. ‘This completes the man-
agement for the first year.

Second Year.

The second year, as the spring advances, and the
power of the sun increases, open the windows and
doors of the house to let the heat escape, and to pre-
vent the vines bursting their buds, shutting up again
before night; do not hasten the pushing of the vines,
but rather keep the house cool until the tenth of Apmil,

12 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

A, is the vine after it has been cut back at planting.

B, shows it at the end of the first year.

C, shows it cut back at the fall pruning of the same year.

D, the end of the second year.

E, at the end of the second year, cut back for fruiting.

F, at the end of the third summer.

G, the end of the third summer, cut back.

If the spurs become too long in a few years, you must allow one of the
shoots, that are constantly pushing on the back wood of them in the spring,
to grow, and, at the fall pruning, cut back to it.

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 13

when it will be best to uncover them; promote a free
circulation of air in bright weather; give some venti-
lation on cloudy days; shut up the house before the
sun sets. About the middle or last of May, the four
eyes will have grown, each, one or two feet; train up
the strongest of the two on last year’s wood, and
shorten back the other three, by pmching off the ends
of the shoots; durmg the season, give plenty of air,
in fine weather, and shut up the house at night. ‘The
best way of traning the vines, is by iron rods, parallel
with the rafters, having three of them; a centre one,
to which should be tied the cane, and one on each side
of this, about eight mches distant, to tie the bearmg
shoot to; m a cold house, they should be ten inches
from the glass, and, in a forcing one, fourteen inches.*

As the leading cane grows, tie it carefully to the rod,
or trellis; stop all the laterals, as they appear, at one
eye, or leaf; continue to check them, as they push
again, in the same way. ‘The second shoot, on last
year’s wood, may be cut entirely out in June, or, as
soon as it is certain that no accident to the leading
cane will require the use of this as a substitute; the
shoots on the spurs of the old wood must be stopped,
as often as they push, by cutting them back to one
eye. |

Stop the leading cane when it has grown about
fifteen feet, and before it reaches the top of the house ;
allow the upper lateral to grow; this will prevent the
eyes, on the upper part of the cane, from bursting.

* Some persons prefer the rods to run horizontally, the whole length of
the house.

14 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

This lateral should be cut back to one eye, after it has
grown three or four feet; if it still continue growing
strong, check it again. .

Heel gh in July, dust sulphur on the floor of the house,
to prevent mildew; to be effectual, one pound should
be used for every twenty square feet of the house. If
mildew should make its appearance, and continue to in-
crease, syringe the vines at evening, and dust the
fohage also with it.*

In September, begin at the lower part of the cane,
and, with a sharp knife, cut clean out all the laterals,
for eight or nine feet, leaving those on the upper part
of the cane to be cut out in the autumn pruning; be
careful, in dome this, not to mjure the bud, or the leaf
of the cane, where you cut, for, from this eye, your
fruit is to come next summer.

As soon as the leaves are falling, cut heel the cane
to eight or nine feet, and the two spurs to one eye,
each.

With a painters’ brush, put on the vines a composi-
tion of soft soap and sulphur, in the proportion of four
pounds sulphur to two pounds of soap; be sure to
cover all the wood, and particularly around the eyes.
To prepare this wash, mix the two substances well
together, when cold, and pour hot water upon them ;
it should be of the consistency of cream when put on
the vine.

* Nathaniel Silsbee, Jr., Esq., informs me, that, in his grapery, which is
a cold house, he covers the floor twice, every summer, with the sulphur,
and recommends its application in the middle of the day, as, at that time,
part of it will rise and settle on the vine, but, in such small particles, as to
do no.injury. He has found this effectual in preventing mildew.

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. ba

_ The first of December, lay down the vines, horizon-
tally, near the ground on the front of the house, and
cover them from the sun. Russia mats are the best
for this purpose ; cover the border as last year.

This will end the second season of their growth.
So far, we have considered the house a cold one, or
without fire heat; if the vines have been planted in a
greenhouse, and a fire kept up, then they will have
started in February or March ; if they are so situated,
let the house be kept at as low a temperature, night
and day, as the safety of the plants will admit; the
treatment should be the same, for the season, except
the covermg of them with mats, which would be
unnecessary.

Third Year.

The third season, air the house, as directed the last
year; uncover the vines from the first to the middle
of April, as the sprmg may be mild or cool; keep
them in thei horizontal position, until the eyes have
all pushed; have a moist atmosphere, by sprmkling
the vines and the floor, several times, every day.
About the twentieth of April, or the first of May, they
will have pushed their buds so as to be all ready to be
put to the rods, or trellis.

During the season, give air freely when the sun
shines; shut up the windows towards night, as the
sun recedes from the house. The mercury should not
rise above seventy-five, until the blossom is over;
after that has passed, eighty or ninety, at midday,
will do no harm; occasionally wet the floor of the
house in the afternoon; the inside border must be

16 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

watered, as often as the roots of the vine require;
continue this treatment for the season. As the grapes
begin to color, be cautious in watering, and, after they
are fully colored, do not give water at all, until the
grapes are all cut, leaving open some of the lights at
night, unless there is danger of frost, or rain.

About the last of May, the shoots will be from one
to three feet long ; train up the leading one, the same
as last year, and cut back the others to one leaf beyond
the bunch of fruit to be retamed for ripening; the
bunch nearest the cane is the one usually left on for
this purpose ;* cut off all the others ; never leave more
than one bunch on a spur, and cut away all the fruit
from every alternate spur; when this is done, and
there is still more than eight good-sized bunches re-
maining, reduce them to this number; these will be
quite enough for the vine to mature, the first year of
bearing; if the bunches are very large, you must cut
off still more; do not allow over ten pounds. of fruit
to ripen on each vine; they probably will average not
less than one pound to the bunch.

Occasionally, it will be necessary to go over the
vines, and stop the laterals that push on the leading
cane and on the spurs, by cutting them back to one
eye; it will be found a saving of labor, to perform this
pruning at regular intervals of a fortnight durimg the
season; continue this, until they cease growing; the
leading cane should be stopped as soon as it reaches

* It sometimes happens, that a spur will have four or five bunches on
the shoot, the nearest one to the cane being at the second leaf; when this
occurs, it is best to leave, for ripening, the second bunch, cutting away the
others.

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 17

the top of the house, leaving one or two laterals at
the top to grow a few days, when you should cut
back one of them, and leave the other a few days longer,
when that must be cut back also. I do not syringe
the vines after they are trained to the trellis, and do
not think it ever necessary, provided the house is kept
moist by watering.

The vines will begin to bloom early in June; when
the berries are as large as peas, begin to thin them ;
cut out all the small ones first; no rule can be laid
down, as to the number to be taken out of each bunch,
for the same kinds set their fruit more or less thickly
in different years, and in different situations. Of
Black Hamburgh, I usually cut three out of five ber-
ries; of Zinfindal, eight out of ten; of Chasselas,
when they set well, five out of ten: experience will
soon teach one what is proper to be done. If the
shoots from the spurs have not been tied to the rods,
they should be, as soon as the thinning is over; do
this carefully, and let them be at equal distances; a
little attention to this will improve the appearance of
the vines very much.

Examine the bunch as the grapes swell; if they are
pressing together, cut out still more, always taking the
smallest berries. In thinning, avoid touching the
grapes with the hand; the moisture of the flesh causes
rust; if it is necessary to handle the bunch, gloves
should be worn. After they begm to change color, if
it is necessary to thm them more, the scissors must
be used cautiously, in order not to injure the bloom,
and thereby destroy the beauty of the bunch.

3

18 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

Early in July, spread the sulphur, as directed
the last year. The grapes will begin to change
color in August, and to ripen about the middle of
September.

When ripening off, if the berries do not swell or
color well, and, in black varieties, are of a pale red
color, feeling soft, if touched, you may be assured the
vines are not strong enough to ripen the crop; cut off
the lower part of the bunch of some, and the whole
of others, selecting, for this purpose, the bunches
which are the most affected in this way, and reducing
the quantity on the vine one third, or one half, and
do so as soon as you suspect this is the case; by these
means, you may save the residue of the crop, and, at
the same time, relieve the vine from the exhausting
effort of attempting to mature it. This is a trouble
caused by overcropping, and is entirely distinct from
what is usually termed shanking; for this disease,
after it has once taken hold of the bunch, there is no
remedy; the part affected must be lost. In Septem-
ber, cut out all the laterals from the new cane, as
directed last year.

This treatment of the vine will give you delicious
fruit, well-colored, and, consequently, high-flavored ;
in black grapes, as a general rule, it may be laid down,
that, when fully ripe, the blacker the grape, the more
spirited and richer the juice; bunches weighing about
one pound are usually better ripened than larger ones.
The berries of the Black Hamburgh, grown by these
rules, will measure three and four inches round. ‘This
grape is often grown of a slightly reddish tinge, and

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 19

sometimes with very large berries, very sweet indeed,
but deficient i flavor.

This is a simple process, but the practical operation
of it involves much labor and unremitted attention.
After all is done that is required by pruning, thinning,
watering, &c., much depends upon the proper ventila-
tion and heat of the house; this must be opened and
shut as the weather changes; if clouds are constantly
passing during the day, and the sun alternately ob-
scured or shining, it will be difficult to regulate the
temperature; a partial openmg of the top lights will
allow the heat to escape, and prevent too great an ac-
cumulation of it; the person having charge will soon,
by attention, ascertain how much ventilation is re-
quired under such circumstances.

It will be preferable to have a low temperature, and
changing between sixty-five and eighty, than by having
the house closed, the heat raised, for even a very short
time, to one hundred, or one hundred and twenty,
which would be the case in changeable weather, should
the sun shine forth suddenly, and the house be entirely
closed. This must never be allowed, but, as soon as
there is a prospect of the sun shining, open the lights
a little, and contmue opening as the heat creases.

Avoid sudden changes of the temperature as much
as possible, and the air should, at all times, be ad-
mitted gradually.

Never allow any of the leaves of the vine to be
taken off for the purpose of admitting the sun to the
grapes.

If aphis, or the vine fretter, appear on the vine,

20 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

fumigating the house with tobacco will destroy them.
If red spiders are troublesome, moisture and sulphur
are the only remedies; syrmging the vines at evening,
and dusting the leaves with flour of sulphur.

In September, all but the last lateral on the spurs
should be cut out.

When the leaves are off, early in November, cut
back the leading cane, leaving four feet only of the
new, or this year’s growth; this will now make the
entire length of the cane twelve or thirteen feet; cut
back, close to the old wood, the spurs that have fruited
this year; those that have not, cut back to one eye or
bud, to bear fruit the coming season; clean and put
over the vines the soap and sulphur, as before ; and
the first of December, lay them down and cover them,
as last season.

If the spurs are too close together, you can cut out
those that are not wanted; they should not be nearer
together than four imches; this would make them
eight inches apart on each side the cane, and closer
than they are often grown; if nearer, they would ob-
struct the light.

Fourth Year.

The fourth year, follow the same directions for ven-
tilating, giving air, and watering the vines and the
floor of the house as heretofore.

After the vines are secured to the trellis, and the
shoots are one or two inches long, rub out, from the
spurs which were cut close, all but one shoot; this
you must leave to grow for future use; do not allow
it to bear fruit this season.

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. a1

If the vines are strong, and were not injured by
overbearing last year, you can now leave on each vine
fifteen bunches, that will weigh one pound each, to
ripen this season; let the bunches be distributed, at
proper distances, over the vine. The leading cane
should not be allowed to bear fruit until it has become
established at the length desired for permanent use,
when it can be fruited as well as the other shoots.
Very strong, healthy vines will often show, on this
length of cane, sixty to one hundred bunches; and it
requires some firmness in an inexperienced person, to
cut out in this free manner.

Prune at the same time, and im the same way, as
last year; and, at the autumn trimming, leave four
feet more of the new cane; this will now be sixteen
or seventeen feet long, and of sufficient length to bear
as large crops as the vine should ever be required to
do. In November, clean and place the vines, and
protect them from frost, as heretofore.

Fifth Year.

Fifth year, the same general treatment is to be
pursued; the leading cane must be stopped at the top
of the house, leaving two or three of the extreme
laterals to grow a short time, and stopping them at
intervals of four or five days, the top one first.

You may now allow the vines to bear twenty pounds
of fruit, and, as they grow older and stronger, you can
increase the weight to twenty-five pounds. I have
never seen more than this quantity ripened on a vine,
in this country, without mjurig the crop the year

22 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

after. Itis true, we often hear of much larger crops,
but my experience will not warrant any thing of the
kind.*

It is unusual to see a bunch of Black Hamburgh
grapes weighing more than four pounds. At the ex-
hibition of the London Horticultural Society, at Chis-
wick, on the nimth of July, 1836, there was shown a
very fine bunch of this variety which weighed eight
pounds and six ounces; it is mentioned in Loudon’s
Magazine as “ hitherto unrivalled ;” see volume twelfth,
page four hundred and forty-fourth.+

A simple furnace and flue, to run along the front of
the house, even when it is not intended to force, is
desirable, as a small fire can then be made in wet
weather, and, after the fruit is ripe, by keeping the
air dry, you will be able to preserve the grapes sound
a great length of time.

The fall pruning of the fourth year will leave the
vine established at the proper length at which it may
ever remain ; the fall trimming the fifth year, and ever
after, will be the same as that of the fourth,—cutting
the leading cane back to the dormant eyes.

*In England, there are two very remarkable vines, which are said to
produce, yearly, over two thousand bunches. One of these, that at Hamp-
ton Court, I saw in the summer of 1836; it then was bearing a crop of
over two thousand bunches ; they were generally small, however, and the
berries were not large; the man having charge of the house said that it
did not look as well as usual. In 1846, a gentleman who visited it, de-
scribes the bunches as small, but numerous, and looking well; the roof of
the house is covered with the vine; it is trained horizontally, and passes,
two or three times, the whole length of the roof ; the pruning is on the spur
system, but a shoot is laid in, wherever wanted to fill a vacant space.

+I had the satisfaction of seeing this bunch of grapes; it probably is
the largest bunch of this kind ever grown.

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 23

If, after a series of years, the cane should become
too long, it can then be cut back to the next spur
from the top.

REMARKS ON FORCING THE VINE.

If it is mtended to winter-force, you must not com-
mence the process, the first year, before the first of
March ; the second year, you may begin the middle of
February; the third year, the first of February, and
so on, fifteen days earlier every year, until you reach
the first of December ; beyond this you can hardly go,
as this allows only time to prune and clean the vine
after it has gone into rest.

The first of March is recommended as the best time
to commence fire-heat for the main crop of grapes;
this can hardly be considered as forcing ; it is a simple
protection and aid to the natural growth, and as heavy
crops can be matured as im a cold house.

In a house that is forced in December or January,
every year, ten pounds of grapes is quite as much as
each vine will perfect, on an average of years.

Before making the fires, the border must be at-
tended to; if it was covered in the autumn with coarse
litter or leaves, as directed, it should now have a
quantity of fresh stable manure added, and well mixed
with the litter; cover the whole border to the depth
of eighteen inches, and protect this from the cold rai
and snow with boards; this will effectually prevent
the frost from penetrating to the roots. ‘The manage-
ment of the vine will be the same as directed for the
cold house; the pruning, thining, and tramimg must

24 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

all be done in the same manner. Forcing, earlier
than the first of March, is attended with much more
risk of failure ; the expense and trouble are more, and
these are all increased in proportion as you begin
before this time.

DIRECTIONS FOR MANAGING THE FORCING-HOUSKE.

Commence forcing your house with a temperature
of 40° at night, 60° by day; admit air freely when
the sun shines; upon the furnace and the flues, place
pans of water; the vines should be kept m a horizon-
tal position until they are pushing strong; syringe or
wet them repeatedly during the day, and keep the air
of the house moist by watermg the floor. After ten
days, raise the temperature to 45° by night, 65° by
sunshine; continue to keep the house moist until the
vines have all broken well, and have been put up to
the trellis, when you can lessen gradually the watermg ;
let the pans of water, on the furnace and flue, be con-
stantly filled while the grapes are growing; after they
begin to color, lessen the number of pans of water
eradually, and the moisture of the house, and ripen
off the fruit im a dry atmosphere.

In ten days more, raise the temperature to 50° or
55° at night, and by day, when cloudy, to 65°, or,
when the sun shines, to 75°. ‘This temperature should
be gradually raised at might until the grapes are in
bloom, when the heat should be as equal as possible,
70° at might, 75° or 80° by day, when the sun shines.
Do not let the temperature of the house, by artificial
means, rise above 70° in this stage of forcing.

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 25

In May and June, we often have some very hot
days, with a bright sun and dry air, the temperature
in the open air 80° or 90°, and even higher; in such
weather, you cannot prevent the heat of the house ris-
ing to over 100°; if the air should be very dry, it would
burn the leaves, and injure them more to have all the
lights and doors thrown wide open, than a greater de-
gree of heat with proportionate moisture would do.

The shrivel in grapes is caused, frequently, by too
large a crop; sometimes by too much moisture at the
roots, and often by a sudden change of air, or too low a
temperature ; the best preventive for the two latter
troubles is a constant free circulation of warm air.

In the management of your house, aim to imitate
nature, by a regular increase of heat, as in spring.

Karly in October, you may cut back the spurs to
two eyes, if you think the wood is not ripening well;
be careful and do not cut, or otherwise injure the re-
maining eyes, or their leaves; this will admit more
sun to the house, and promote a free circulation of air,
and strengthen the eyes retained.

In winter, the mercury, in the open air, frequently
falls to zero, and sometimes six and ten below, with a
high wind blowing at the same time.

In January, February, and the early part of March,
for weeks together, it will be found, during the night,
ranging from ten above, down to, zero. In such a
climate, a powerful and steady heat is necessary.

The boiler and pipe to circulate hot water around
the house, on the level principle, together with the
furnace and flue, are recommended as the best and

4

26 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

safest heating apparatus. A furnace and flue will not
heat more than twenty-five feet of a grapery that is
forced in the winter months, and, for any additional
length of the house, other furnaces must be added, in
the like proportion, or the hot water apparatus sub-
stituted.

The following is a memorandum of the regulation
of the heat, with the dates on which the different
operations were performed, in a house forced in the
winter of 1846 and 1847 :—

November, 1846.—The vines were pruned; every
alternate spur was cut at one eye to fruit; the others
were cut close, as there were more spurs than the
strength of the vine would admit of fruiting the com-
ing season.

When the vines were not of sufficient length for the
rafters, we retained as much of the new cane as was
required, or as the strength of the vine would allow.

The loose bark was rubbed off, and the vines painted
over with the composition of soap and sulphur.

The border was covered with litter.

The first of December, the vmes were placed in a
horizontal position, near the front of the house, and
covered with Russia mats; those on the back of the
house were laid down and covered in the same manner.

December 20th.—The fires were made, and forcing
commenced; the temperature of the house was kept
at 40° at might, 60° by day; fresh stable manure was
put on the border, and well mixed with the litter
already there; the vines, and the floor of the house,
were repeatedly watered, and pans of water placed on

OULTURE OF THE GRAPE. Q7

the furnace and flues; this temperature was kept up,
and the watering continued, until—

January Ist, 1847,—when the temperature was
raised to 45° at night, 65° by day, and air freely ad-
mitted, when the sun shone; wetting the house and
vines continued.

January 5th.—The temperature was raised, at night,
to 50°; by day, if cloudy, to 65°; when the sun shone,
to 70°, with plenty of air admitted, and the pans of
water daily replenished. This heat was continued to—

January 10th,—when, at night, the temperature was
kept at 50° to 55°; by day, if cloudy, 65°; when the
sun shone, 75°, with air; the top windows were let
down, every other light, three or four inches in the
morning, and as the heat increased, more air was
gradually admitted.

When the house became quite warm with sun heat,
the front lights were opened a little. In very cold
days, and with a bright sun shining, the windows were
not opened more than four inches; watered the house
freely in mild weather, giving less in very cold; the
pans of water were kept full. This treatment was
continued to—

January 20th,—when the oaeuenstel in cloudy
weather, was raised to 70° by day; during the night,
and on sunshiny days, the same as from the tenth
instant; and this was continued to February.

The vines, near the furnace, were all pushing, both
sets at the same time, those planted on the outside of
the house, and those on the inside. The mercury, in
the open air, last night, was at zero; in the house, at

28 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

9, P. M., it was 55°; at 7, A. M., 48°, with as large
fires as the furnace would allow.

January 25th.—Nine of the vines, which were near-
est to the furnace, were tied to the rods.

January 27th.—Put up sixteen more.

February 1st.—The temperature, at night, was kept
at 55° to 65°; by day, and when cloudy, 70° to 75°;
by sunshine, 75° to 85°, giving air as above; and this
temperature was continued until the blossom was over ;
the remaining vines, on the front of the house, were
taken up and secured to the rods.

February 2d.—The vines, on the back of the house,
were tied to the trellis ; some of the shoots, on the vines
near the furnace, were two feet, and some three feet
long; they were cut back to one eye beyond the fruit.

February 10th.—Rubbed out all but one shoot on
each spur, where it had not been done before ;* the
spurs which were cut close have generally pushed,
from dormant eyes at their base, from two to six
shoots, and most of the shoots had fruit bunches.}

February 15th.—First blossoms opened to-day on.
three of the vines; shortened back, and tied out to
the rods, the side shoots on several vines.

February 21st.—Blossoms have opened on the eight
vines nearest the furnace, and, on the two first, the
berries are swelling off; continued to stop, and to tie
up, and to thin out, any of the shoots that are not
wanted.

* This can be done as soon as the shoots are one inch long, shortly after
the canes are put up.

+ The tendrils should be cut smoothly out when they first appear.

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 29

March 1st.—The temperature, at night, was kept at
60° to 70°; by day, when cloudy, 70° to 75°; by
sunshine, 80° to 90°; as much air admitted as could
be, with safety, allowed; began to thi some bunches
on three vines; ten vines were in blossom on the
front, and four on the back of the house.

March 10th.—More than half the vines were in
blossom, and the grapes thinned on eight vines; the
laterals on the spurs were cut back to one eye, and this
check was repeated as they required it.

March 15th.—Temperature the same as from the
first of the month; have been thinning the grapes the
past fortnight; they are now finished, for the first
time, and the earliest vines have been thinned two or
three times.*

April 1st—Temperature the same as m March;
from day to day have been examining and thinning
the berries, when it was found necessary.

April 10th.—The first grapes began to color, near
the furnace, this day. ‘Temperature as above.

April 20th.—The Zinfindal, Karly Black July, and
Grizzly Frontignan colormg; the Pitmaston White
Cluster nearly ripe, and the Chasselas Bar Sur Aube
changing color.

May 1st.—The temperature, at might, 70°; by day,
if cloudy, 75° to 80°; by sunshine, 85° to 95°, with
air freely admitted. The first Black Hamburgh grapes
begin to color; the pans of water were removed from
the furnace and from the flue, where the grapes have

* The shoulders of very large bunches (the Syrian) always require to be
spread out and supported by strings, to permit a free circulation of air,

30 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

colored, or are nearly ripe; the bunches were ex-
amined, and all defective berries cut out; all thinning,
for the season, was now finished.

May 10th.—The grapes were ripe on the first five
vines; part of the fruit, from Chasselas Bar Sur Aube,
Zinfindal, Early Black July, Pitmaston White Cluster,
and Grizzly Frontignan, has been gathered; more of
the pans of water were removed from the flue.

May 20th.—Cut Black Hamburgh grapes, fully
ripe; the grapes were all ripening in every part of the
house, and have colored well; all the pans of water
were now removed, and the house kept as dry as
possible.

June 1st.—The weather now being warm, the mak-
ing of fires was omitted, excepting in wet weather,
when small fires were made in the day-time, and the
house was opened for ventilation.

June 10th.—Half the crop was fully ripe, and the
residue colored. After the grapes were all cut, the
sashes were kept open might and day, and they should
be continued so until cool weather, when it will be best
to close the sashes and doors at night, to exclude hard
frosts.

In July, there is every probability that the red spi-
der may appear on the vines of a house that has been
winter-forced; to destroy them, syringe the vines in
the afternoon frequently, and dust sulphur all over
them; if this does not kill them, wet the flues and
the floor of the house thoroughly, and dust both of
them well with the sulphur; make a fire in the fur-
nace to cause the sulphur to send out strong fumes;

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 381

you may melt it, but by no means allow it to burn;
shut up the house close, and give it a good steaming ;
open it early in the morning; this should be done in
the afternoon, before the sun has ceased to shine upon
the house.

RETARDING HOUSE.

The retarding house should be built upon the same
plan as the forcing house; it is not necessary that it
should be so wide, or so high on the back.

The pruning and training of the vine is the same
as in the cold house; the thinning of the berries will
be performed later than in any other house, and care
should be had that it is thoroughly done, and more
severely than in any other way of growing them.

Karly in March, the sun must be excluded from the
house; this can be done by spreading sails, or mats,
over the glass; the doors and lights must be open
day and night when the temperature is above freezing.

In May, when the vines push their buds, the cover-
ing must be removed from the glass; keep the tem-
perature as low as possible, night and day, during the
summer; the end of May, or early in June, the vines
should be put to the rods, or trellis.

Karly in July, the grapes will be in blossom; apply
the sulphur now to the floor of the house, and observe
the vines carefully during this and the next month ; if
the mildew appear on the wood, fruit, or foliage, shut
the house at night, and apply more sulphur. Never
allow it to remain on the fruit; if, by accident, any
should get on, brush it off immediately —opening the

32 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

house by day, as in any grapery. Early in August,
the grapes will require to be thinned.

In October, when the nights become cool, close the
doors and windows, (where it has not been done before
on account of mildew,) giving as much air, and keeping
as low a temperature, (when the sun shines,) by day, as
possible.

In November, small fires must be made and kept
up in the night-time and in cloudy weather.

The fruit will be ripe the last of November and in
December; after which, the house must be kept as
dry as possible, having sufficient fires to keep out the
frost.

After the fruit and foliage are off, prune the vines,
and protect them from the frost.

The following list is recommended for planting in
the retarding house, and in the proportions named :—

Black Hamburgh, five vines, including, with this
variety, the Wilmot’s New Black Hamburgh.

Muscat of Alexandria, two vines.

Zinfindal, two vines.

Black Lombardy, five vines.

Charlsworth Tokay, two vines.

Whortley Hall Seedling, three vines.

Aleppo, one vine.

Tottenham Park Muscat, three vines.

Syrian, one vine.

Chasselas de Bar Sur Aube, one vine.

Black Prince, one vine.

St. Peter’s, (old,) one vine.

Black Frontignan, one vine.

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 33

VARIETIES OF GRAPES FOR PLANTING.

For planting, I would recommend the Black Ham-
burgh grape as the best for the greatest number of
vines.

The Grizzly, the White, and the Black Frontignan
are all admired by those persons who like the Muscat
flavor; they are lable to shrivel, and are more delicate
than other grapes, and do not keep well when ripe;
the Grizzly is the earliest of them.

The Muscat of Alexandria is a large oval grape; it
does not set well under glass, and requires artificial
impregnation ;* it is a firm-fleshed or breaking grape,
and, when well ripened, cannot be exceeded in rich-
ness.

Tottenham Park Muscat is very like the former, but
not so high flavored; it sets its berries better.

Chasselas Bar Sur Aube is a fine white grape, and a
good bearer.

Pitmaston White Cluster has rather small berries,
but is very early and good.

Syrian, white, has very large bunches, sometimes
weighing twenty pounds. I have never grown them
over five pounds. This is a tolerably good grape, if
allowed to hang until of an amber color.

Verdelho is a small oval white grape, very good, and
a great bearer.

* Otis Johnson, Esq., of Lynn, a successful cultivator of the grape, the
present year, allowed the shoots of this variety to grow at random until
the fruit was swelling, and he thinks the result of the experiment has been
favorable: the fruit has set remarkably well.

5

34 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

Black Lombardy is a late grape, and will hang a
long time after it 1s ripe.
For a cold house, I would recommend the following:

Black Hamburgh, Pitmaston White Cluster,
Rose, or Red Chasselas, | Golden Chasselas,
Chasselas de Bar Sur White Gascoigne,

Aube, Royal Muscadime,
White Frontignan, Wilmot’s New Black Ham-
Grizzly Frontignan, burgh.

For a forcing house :

Black Hamburgh, Golden Chasselas,
Red, or Rose Chasselas, | White Gascoigne,
Chasselas de Bar Sur Aube,| Royal Muscadine,

White Frontignan, Wilmot’s New Black Ham-
Black Frontignan, burgh,
Grizzly Frontignan, Muscat of Alexandria,

Pitmaston White Cluster, | Zinfindal.

The Early Black July may be added, if it is desired
to get early grapes; this is a small grape, of a pleas-
ant flavor, but no earlier than the Pitmaston, and
only desirable for its color. They will both, if planted
in the warmest situation, come on together, and much
before the Black Hamburgh. ‘The Grizzly Frontignan
is also an early grape.

The list above embraces a good number of the best
varieties; there are several new kinds well spoken
of, but which have not been sufficiently tried in
this country to prove their qualities. The Chasselas
Musqué cracks very much, thus far, and, if it should

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 5 |

habitually do so, will not be worth cultivation. The
Muscat Blane Hatif (Early White Muscat) is particu-
larly recommended abroad.

There are five or six more kinds which will be fully
proved in two or three years, but it is hardly probable
there will be any thing better produced, for cultivation
under glass, than the best of the old kinds named
above. Tor large collections, almost any number of
kinds may be added. The Garden of the Luxem-
bourg, at Paris, numbers about five hundred varieties,
many of them worthless, and a great number only
differing very little in foliage, or in the time of ripening.

The following list contains the new varieties, with
some older ones, which have recently been brought to
notice, part of which have not yet been proved in this
country :—

Escuotata Muscat.—This is said to be a seedling
of the Muscat of Alexandria, and every way like it.

CuasseLas Musqur’.—Cracks badly, thus far; has
been worthless in this country; it is a seedling raised
by Vibert, of France.

Cannon Hatt Muscat.—sets very badly; the ber-
ries are large and very handsome.

Witmot'’s Harty Wuire Muscat.

Bioom Raisin SEEDLING.

Dr Canpotie.—Red, with large bunches and berries.

Witmor’s New Brack Hampureu.—Has proved
_ fine.

Wixtmot’s No. 16.—Has proved fine.

Buussarp Norr.

CuassELas Hatirr Pretrr.—Too small to be worthy
of cultivation.

36 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

Brack Lomparpy.—A fine late grape; this is the
same as West's St. Peter's.

Vicror1s Hampurcu.—tThis is said to be a syn-
onyme of the old kind; but there have been specimens
exhibited which certaimly appeared different.

Muscat or Lunet.—tThis is the same as the Mus-
cat of Alexandria.

Toxay, CaartswortH.—Excellent, with a Muscat
flavor.

WuortLtey Hatt Sreprinec.—A good, and very
late grape.

Rep TramiIner.—Good, with small round berries.

Risstinc Wuitre.—Ripens in the open air; the
berries are small, and the flavor good.

Brack Trreot1.—Has round berries, not unlike the
Black Hamburgh.

Brack Proutiric.—Has round berries, with large
bunches. It is good, but does not keep well.

PaLESTINE GraPE.—The bunches of this variety
are enormous, and the berries are oval, large, and
white.

SUABI.

LIVERDEN.

FROMENTAL.

FLORENTINE.

FALANCHINA.

Aueust Muscat.—A seedling raised by M. Vibert,
of Angers, in France, from the grape called there the ,
Frankantal, (supposed to be what we call the Black
Hamburgh, as it usually proves so, when ordered from
France ;) it is a very weak growing vine; the fruit is

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 37

black, of Muscat flavor, and is said to mature its fruit
earler than any other grape; a vine in my grapery
has fruit which will ripen this summer.

GoLDEN CHassELAS.—Has a very large round berry,
with a large bunch, and is very handsome; sets poorly
and cracks.

AtEppo.—The bunches are large; it is a good
bearer, and a good grape.

Waitt Nice.—Has very large bunches, with small
bernes. The quality is good.

EspERIoNE.—The berries are small and black, and
the bunches very large.

Rose, on Rep Cuassetas.—This is a good bearer,
with a fine flavor and small berries.

Grosse Noir or Lorratne.

Decon’s Supers.—A white grape, fruited, m 1846,
by Mr. Buist; is said to be very fine.

Prince ALBERT.—This variety will fruit this season
in this country.

QUEEN oF Nicre.—tThis is a handsome fruit, with
large bunches and berries, but it is said to be a small
bearer.

VioLteT Muscat.

GrossE PERLE BLaNcHE.

XeRES.—A white grape, represented as very fine.

Brack Morse.

PourrpLte Muscat.

Austrian Muscat.—Is not unlike the Grizzly;
promises to be fine.

S. Coarces Heniine.—A black variety, fruited by
Mr. Buist, in 1846; said to be fine.

38 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

Portrer Noir.

Gros CouLtarp.—Has large berries and 1s early.

BIsHop.

St. Perer’s or Atrers.—The berries are large and
oval.

CAILLABEE.—Resembles the Black Frontignan.

PaRTRIDGE Foor.

GARDEN 'Toxay.—Red.

HansterETTo.—Black ; does not set well.

Buiackx Muscat or ALEXANDRIA.

Rep CuasseLas or Visert.—This is supposed to
be a hybrid of the Isabella and Chasselas.

Cuaptat.—This is another seedling of M. Vibert,
with large oval berries.

MapELAINE OF VisERT.—Has berries of medium
size and oval.

GrossE PERLE BuancuEe pE Semis.—Seedling of
Vibert; said to have very large bunches, and the
berries uncommonly large and nearly round. ‘Two
other varieties, from seed, by M. Vibert, with black
colored fruit, which he calls Nos. 3 and 4, are early ;
but, as he does not mention them as particularly good,
it may be presumed that their quality is not remarkable.

JOSLING’s St. ALBANS GraPE.—A seedling, raised by
Mr. Josling, of St. Albans, somewhat resembling the
White Frontignan ; supposed to be a hybrid of Muscat
of Alexandria and White Nice. This is highly spoken
of and recommended by Mr. Thompson; it is said not
to shank.

Lomparpy, Rep.—This is a late grape, with very
large bunches, and is the same as the flame-colored
Tokay.

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 39

Macreavy’s Harty Wuitrt.— This is a new variety ;
it has been fruited the present and last season by
Messrs. Hovey & Co., in their greenhouse. It isa
white grape, with an oval and rather small berry. I
do not consider it any better, if as good, as the
Pitmaston.

CULTURE IN THE OPEN AIR.

The mildew renders the cultivation of foreign vari-
eties of the grape, in the open air, in this country,
almost useless. The difficulty is not with the season ;
this is long enough to ripen many kinds, were it not
for the above trouble. I have seen, in my garden, the
Early Black July perfectly colored the first of Septem-
ber; but the leaf was so injured by mildew, that the
grapes did not sweeten, or obtain any flavor.

In some of our cities, they occasionally ripen very
well. If it is desired to make the attempt, the border
should be made with care in the same way as directed
for house culture; they may be trained by any of the
systems described; prune them, and thin the berries
in the same manner as if in the house.

The Pitmaston White Cluster, Early Black July,
and Esperione are recommended as the best for culti-
vation in the vicinity of Boston; further south, the
Black Hamburgh and Frontignans may be added to
the list.

In November, the vines must be laid down and well
covered with straw, or litter, to protect them from the
frost.

In Hovey’s Magazine of Horticulture, vol. 12th, is

40 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

a communication by Mr. J. W. Russel, gardener to
Horace Gray, Esq., on the cultivation of the grape, in
which he gives the following receipt to prevent mildew. —
Having found the application of sulphur to the floor
of the house all that was necessary in cultivating the
grape under glass, I have never used this preparation,
but, for their cultivation in the open air, I would
strongly advise its trial; it should be apphed in July,
or earlier, if there is any appearance of mildew on the
fruit, wood, or foliage.

Recript.— To one peck of quick lime, add half a
pound of sulphur; put them into a tight barrel, and
pour boiling hot water over them sufficient to slake all
the lime, and it will be found that the sulphur is mixed
with it in the best possible manner; then pour on to
the top of it three gallons of soft water, and stir it well
together, leaving it to settle; im about twenty-four
hours, the water on the top will be perfectly clear.

“This should be taken off as clear as possible, and
put into a stone jar, there to remain until wanted. Half
a pint of this mixture will be sufficient for three gal-
lons of water.

‘This wash will not injure either the fruit or leaves,
and no person could tell that any thing but clean water
had been used, only that it leaves a stain on white
paint, which will wear off in a little time. This is a
sure remedy for the mildew, and, therefore, worth
knowing to every grape cultivator.”

The Isabella, a native grape, succeeds better, in the
open air, than any other variety in this vicinity; the
border should be well made, and in a dry situation ;

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 4]

the traming must be different from that of the foreign
kinds; it will not bear the severe pruning which is
necessary for them; the summer shoots should be tied
to the trellis ; leading up or out, in different directions,
shoots to be partially retained, at the winter pruning,
for the extension of the vine. In September, cut back
the ends of all the shoots made this year to check the
growth, and let the sun and air have access to the vine.
Winter-prune, in February, on the spur system, leav-
ing an addition to the extreme shoots of about two
feet of the new wood, and when this cane grows too long
for the trellis, cut it back, at the winter pruning, to any
length desirable, and lead up a new shoot the coming
season to take its place.

The quantity of fruit that a vine of this variety will
ripen, when it has arrived at maturity, under proper
management, and is favorably situated, is remarkably
large ; two bunches on a spur may be allowed to ripen ;
the berries do not require the thinning that foreign
ones do; the small ones only should be cut out.

When gathered im perfectly dry weather, and put
away in a cool place, just above the freezing pomt, and
packed in layers of cotton, they will often keep good
until March. Before packing, each bunch should be
examined, and any defective berry cut out.

The Catawba will not ripen as far north as Boston.

Pond’s Seedling is one of the best native varieties ;
the fruit, however, is but seldom seen, and it is there-
fore presumed to be a shy bearer.

Bland’s Virginian will not ripen at the north.

Elsinburgh is too small to be worthy of cultivation.

6

42 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

The Ohio grape is tender, and, at the north, requires ~
the same protection as foreign kinds; the bunches are
large and long, but the berries very small.

The vineyard cultivation of the native varieties of
the grape, in the United States, is attracting more at-
tention yearly. On the banks of the Ohio River, the
planting is increasing rapidly, and, on the hills near
Reading, Pa., are vineyards for the purpose of making
wine.

At the latter place, the vines are pruned and tied to
stakes, after the European method.

Dr. Underwood has a vineyard on the Hudson,
where he raises large quantities of the Isabella and
Catawba for the table, which are sent to the New York
market for sale.

H. W. 8. Cleveland, Esq., of Burlington, N.J., has
a vineyard of the Isabella, and is increasing it largely.

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 43

This drawing represents a vine after it has become established, and has
been planted six or more years, and has been pruned agreeably to these
directions. The lateral shoots are not represented.

DIFFERENT SYSTEMS

OF

TRAINING AND PRUNING EXPLAINED.

Hoare’s Pran.—After planting, the vine must be
cut back to two eyes.

The first year, if more than two shoots push, rub
the others off, and train the two shoots to the trellis.
As soon as it appears probable that no accident will
happen to the strongest of these shoots, cut out the
other ; this will be about the first of July; continue to
secure the shoot to the trellis, from time to time, as it
grows, pruning in the laterals to one eye.

In November, cut the vine down again to two eyes.

The second year, train exactly in the same manner,
and if any fruit appear, take it off.

Karly m November, cut the vine down to three

eyes, thus:
a.

The third year, train up the three shoots, and rub
out all others; in July, prune out the weakest one ;
stop all laterals as before; continue to train the other

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 45

two carefully durmg the season. About the first of
September, pinch off the ends of the shoots.

In November, cut back the two shoots to seven
buds each, and prune out carefully all the laterals close
to the buds.

The fourth year, early in February, cut out of each
shoot the first, second, fourth, fifth, and sixth buds;
then bend the two shoots carefully down, and secure
them in a horizontal position, thus:

Train the shoots that push from the eyes three and
seven in the manner indicated by the dotted lines, and
if more fruit shows than it is proper for the vine to bear,
cut it off after the berries have set; the same treat-
ment of the vine is to be pursued during the season
as last year. °

In September, stop the top of the shoots.

In October, as soon as the fruit is gathered, cut
back the first and third shoots to as many buds as
may be deemed necessary to produce the quantity of
fruit which the vine can mature the next year, and
the second and fourth shoots to the lowermost bud,
each ; cut out the lateral shoots close to the buds.

46 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

The fifth year, tram the two canes im the manner
represented below,

\

and the two shoots, which will push from the spurs
H, H, train also m the same way.

The vine has now assumed the form which it is
permanently to retain, and it may be considered as the
commencement of a system of alternately fruiting two
shoots, and of training two, at full length, for bearing
wood to fruit the following year: which method can be
continued, without alteration, until the vine is able
to mature more fruit, when the arms may be extended,
and as many more upright or bearing canes added as
are required.

This plan may do for the Isabella, or other native
kinds: it might answer on the back trellis of a house,
but, for the roof, it would not succeed so well, as the
shoots would occupy too much space.

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. AV

Tt is lable to the same objections that all the long
cane systems of training are.

The long, or succession mode of pruning is recom-
mended by Mr. Loudon and many others. It is thus :—

The first year, one shoot only is allowed to grow,
which is cut down, at the autumn pruning, to the
second or third eye.

The second year, two shoots are encouraged, the
strongest of which must be stopped three or four buds
beyond the middle of the roof, the weaker one after
growing three or four feet.

At the fall of the leaf, the shoots are to be reduced ;
the main one must be pruned back to the middle of
the roof, and the lower one to the third eye.

The third year, one leading shoot is to be tramed in
from each cane, and, from the main cane, fruit-bearing
side shoots will be produced; one bunch only on a
shoot should be retained, and the shoot stopped at one
or two eyes beyond it. No side shoots should be al-
lowed to grow from the spur or cane which was cut
back, the leading shoot from which is to become a
fruit-bearing cane the next year.

In November, the shoot from the end of the fruit-
bearing cane must be cut at the top of the rafters, or
within a foot of the top, and the shoot from the spur
must be pruned back to the middle of the rafter, and
all the spurs that bore the fruit must be pruned out.

The fourth year, a crop will be produced, both in the
upper and lower part of the house, the long cane bear-
ing on the upper part, and the shorter on its whole

48 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. —

length; a leading shoot must be trained from the short
cane, and another, a new cane, from a spur below.

In pruning, at the fall of the leaf, the long cane
must be taken entirely away, and replaced by the cane
that bore the fruit on the lower part; the spurs on
this must be cut out, as on the cane last year, and the
new cane brought up this year must be cut back to
the middle of the rafters; a spur must be left below
to lead up a new cane from next year.

By this system, you have the whole length of rafters
fruited by two canes, and a third one is to be growing
for the next year, to supply the place of the one which
is to be cut out at the fall pruning.

This is unquestionably the best system of pruning,
on the long cane principle, and it is explained here by
a representation of the vine in the successive years.

a, is the vine after planting.

b, is the vine cut back at the close of the first year of growth.

c, is the vine cut back at the close of the second year.

d, is the vine as it will be, after pruning, at the end of the third year.

e, shows the vine with the first bearing cane cut out, and pruned for
fruiting the next year; every successive year, the long shoot must be cut
out, and its place supplied as above directed.

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 49

Another system, practised in this country, is, to
train a new cane, every year, the whole length of the
rafter, to fruit the successive season; the cane which
bore the fruit bemg pruned back to one eye in No-
vember. ‘This is more simple than the former plan ;
but an objection to this, and all other long cane-pruning
and training is, that it requires the vine to produce
and ripen a large crop of fruit, and a great extent of
wood also, every year. The result of this plan would
be, that, in a few years, the vine would evidently be
less and less vigorous, and the new cane would be
constantly growing smaller, until the vine would not
bear any fruit, when a year of rest would be re-
quired to enable it to ripen a crop again. By this
system, you can grow very large bunches of fruit; but
if it is true, that large bunches are not so good as
smaller ones, (which I hold to be the fact,) then there
is no advantage in this. There is no difficulty in
having a great abundance of fruit show itself, under
any judicious pruning; the only fear is, that you will
leave more on the vine than can be ripened properly,
and this risk is increased by having very large bunches.

Another plan is, to have one long cane the length
required, and to be spurred-pruned, as recommended
as the best system of pruning, (page 20,) differing
from that, however, i the cutting of the spur clean
out, at the fall pruning, and not at one eye, as there
directed. The reason for preferring to cut at one eye
is, that, at the base or crown of the spur, are a large
number of dormant eyes which will all, or a great

7

50 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

many of them, push when close pruning is practised ;
and, where there are a great number of vines, the
trouble of rubbing out these is considerable; but when
one eye on the spur pushes, it will prevent these from
srowing; and if, at any time, the eye, from injury, does
not push, then the dormant eyes will, and you can re-
tain a shoot, and when this system of pruning has been
carried out many years, and the spur becomes too
long for convenience, or unsightly, then you can train
one of the shoots that are constantly pushing on the
bare wood of the spur, and prune back on that, in the
autumn, to one eye.

Another plan of spur-pruning, which is recom-
mended to be practised, when the object desired is
to grow large bunches, and the regularity and neat-
ness of the vine are not considered, is to prune the
shoot at any length, cutting so as to leave a full,
strong eye at the end, for fruiting; all the intervening
eyes, excepting the one at the base, are to be pruned
out; this is to be grown for fruiting the next season,
and is to be pruned, at the autumn trimming, at
the prominent eye; the shoot which has fruited,
and all the back wood on the spur, should be cut out
entirely.

Still another method of spur-pruning, when the ob-
ject is large bunches, as above, is to have four or five
spurs only, on each side of the cane, fruiting, each
year, the alternate spur; the cane on every other spur
is to be pruned back to one eye, and the alternate
cane to two or three feet, and five or six bunches al-

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 51

lowed to ripen on each; the
cane which ripened the crop
the first year must now, at
the fall pruning, be cut back
to one eye, and the cane which
is to fruit the coming season
should be pruned to two or
three feet.

These are several of the
most approved and generally
adopted systems of training
the grape. Whatever method
is used should be persevered
in for several years; constantly
changing from one system to
another is bad, and the result
will be unsatisfactory.

If the border has been well
made, and the vines have
never been overcropped, and
the temperature of the house,
with the thmning of the ber-
ries, and summer pruning of
the shoots have been prop-
erly attended to, crops of
fine grapes can be had from
vines pruned in any of the
methods described. The plan
recommended in page 20, is
considered the most simple

a, are the fruiting spurs.
b, the spurs on which the shoots
? are growing for the next year.

on CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

and the one taxing the vine the least of any to ripen
additional wood ; it is easily kept withim narrow limits,
giving ample room for the light to be admitted.

In the best vineyards, where the richest wines are
made, they limit the crop a plant may bear to a small
number of bunches, usually from eight to twenty-five
in number, and in weight to from ten to twenty
pounds; in some parts of France, where they plant
the vines very close, to a much smaller quantity.

At Xeres, in Spain, the sherry wine district, two or
three mother branches are trained up with one spur
on each to fruit, and the vines are planted five feet
apart each way. ‘The crop is limited to eight or nme
bunches, weighing about fourteen or sixteen pounds.

At other vineyards in Spain, where poor wines are
made, the vine is allowed to bear twenty-five or thirty
pounds.

In the vicinity of Malaga, where the Muscat of
Alexandria grape is grown for the purpose of making
raisins, they prune close to the old wood every autumn,
and the plant is kept close to the surface of the soil,
which is a rotten slate; the shoots are not tied up, but
hang, or lie upon the earth. The fruit also lies on the
eround, and, if it were not so gravelly, it would rot;
the average yield, per vine, here, is from seven to fif-
teen pounds; this grape makes the best, or Muscadel
raisin. The grape from which the Bloom raisin is
made is an inferior kind, and the grape of commerce
a still more ordinary one; these are grown in the in-
terior, and the vines are allowed to ripen from ten to
twenty-five pounds.

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. » 53

Near Perpignan, in France, the vine is trimmed at
about six inches from the ground; from the spurs, at
this height, the bearmg shoots proceed, and are not
supported at all; the close spur-pruning 1s followed;
from three to eight spurs are allowed on a vine, ac-
cording to its age and strength.

Near Marseilles, they sometimes prune to three
eyes on a spur, and each vine is allowed to bear from
eight to twelve bunches, or from twelve to twenty
pounds.

At the vineyards that produce the fine wine called
Hermitage, the plants are only two and a half feet
apart, and are two feet high, supported with stakes
five feet long; only one branch is allowed to fruit, and
this is pruned back to from three to eight eyes, and
from eight to ten bunches is the average crop.

At the vineyards which produce the Burgundy wine,
the plants are grown yet closer together. The rows
of vines are only two and a half feet apart, and
the plants in the rows are only twelve or fifteen
inches. After the vines have been three years
planted, the space between the rows is filled up with
vines, making the distance between the plants only
fifteen inches.

At the vineyards of Epernay and Ay, where the
Champaigne wine is made, the vines are, in the rows,
planted as near together as six or seven inches, and
the distance between the rows is only eight or
nine. Of course, the vines are feeble, and produce
but a small quantity of fruit each; the shoots are also
very small and weak, but the vines being so close

5A + CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

together, the general aggregate of fruit produced is
large.

At the vineyards on the banks of the Rhine, the
vines are supported by stakes five or six feet long;
this is the case, generally, in the vineyard culture of
the grape in France. The spur-pruning is usually
adopted.

In Italy, also, the same system is generally employed.
By the road sides, the long cane-pruning is practised in
the followmg manner. A vine is tramed up the trunk
of a tree, and, at the height of twelve or fifteen feet,
a long cane of the vine is led from this tree to
another and secured; these canes, hanging in fes-
toons, present a beautiful appearance when the fruit
is in perfection.

In the Azores, the vines are not supported by stakes ;
usually a small pile of stones encircle the plant, and
the bearing shoots lay on these. The Muscats, and
other choice kinds which are grown expressly for the
table, are generally trained upon a trellis.

Vines, in the open air, are more free from mildew
when trained quite high or very low.

In villages on the continent of Europe, it is com-
mon to see, in the principal streets, the vine trained
on the houses, above the lower windows, about twelve
feet from the ground; a great quantity of fruit is thus
produced at little expense; the roots running under
the pavement of the street.

The kinds grown are usually the small black
sorts, similar to the Early Black July, and Miller's
Burgundy.

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 55

The following is the manner of training.

Ror <5 < — =
y K Q NS SS \ SS x NS
Wt TS SS as
Q o fF — ZZ Co

The pruning is on the short spur system.

Tt should be borne in mind, that the larger the crop
a vine is allowed to bear, the longer will be the time
required to mature the fruit, and the quality of which
will also be deteriorated in proportion to its amount.

The native varieties of the grape, when planted in
a soil naturally dry and suitable, will do well without
a prepared border; but, as a general rule, it must be
remembered that the more care there is bestowed on
the preparation of this, the greater will be the chance
Ob, SHICeESS... 4

The Black Hamburgh grape, when well cultivated,
is a richer fruit in this climate than in that of Eng-
land, and it is necessary to test the quality of the
foreign kinds here, as the experience of European
cultivators does not always comeide with our own.

TUM