CURRENTS IN MONTEREY SUBMARINE CANYON John Edward Hoi lister DUDLEY KNOX LIBRARY NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY. CALIFORNIA 93940 ft POSTGRADUA Monterey, California ?? T *M CURRENTS IN MONTEREY SUBMARINE CANYON by John Edward Hollister September 1975 Thesis Advisors: R.S. Andrews § R.G. Paquette Approved for public release; distribution unlimited. Unclassified SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE rWh«n Date Entered) REPORT DOCUMENTATION PAGE t. REPORT NUMBER 2. GOVT ACCESSION NO READ INSTRUCTIONS BKFORF. COMPLETING KORM 3. RECIPIENT'S CAT ALOG NUMBER 4. Tl TLE (and Subtitle) Currents in Monterey Submarine Canyon 5. TYPE OF REPORT ft PERIOD COVERED Master' s Thesis ; September 1975 6. PERFORMING Of>C. REPORT NUMBER 7. AUTHORfi; 8. CONTRACT OR GRANT NUMBERfi; John Edward Hollister 9. PERFORMING ORGANIZATION NAME AND ADORESS Naval Postgraduate School Monterey, California 93940 10. PROGRAM ELEMENT. PROJECT TASK AREA ft WORK UNIT NUMBERS II. CONTROLLING OFFICE NAME AND ADDRESS Naval Postgraduate School Monterey, California 93940 12. REPORT DATE September 1975 13. NUMBER OF PAGES U. MONITORING AGENCY NAME A ADDRESSf// dlttarant from Controlling Ottlca) Naval Postgraduate School Monterey, California 93940 15. SECURITY CLASS, (ot thle riport) Unclassified 15«. DECLASSIFI CATION/DOWN GRADING SCHEDULE 16. DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT (of thle Report) Approved for public release; distribution unlimited. 17. DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT (ot the abatract entered In Block 20, It different from Report) 18. SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES 19. KEY WORDS (Continue on reverae aide It naceetery and Identity by block number) Currents Submarine canyons Monterey Submarine Canyon 20. ABSTRACT {Continue on revere* aide It neceeeary and Identity by block number) Time series were obtained from two current meters near bottom on one mooring in Monterey Submarine Canyon. These records were analyzed to determine the general character of the currents, the volume transport at different levels above the canyon fioor, the power spectral estimates of the up- canyon and cross-canyon directional components, and the coherence between directional components. DD , j°"M7J 1473 EDITION OF I NOV 85 IS OBSOLETE (Page 1) S/N 0102-014-6601 I Unci nssi f ied SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE (Whan Data Knter*• -i r—r—i OREGON i?0* o o *«• n o c 41 J= ?: < U) c 4/ -4 § 0 a •n •n m 0 0 no O -J O*- O JN O O m •0 O *n CM O CO CM 0 O m O O cyi O ON O 2 O NO CO a. •0 0 vO O tn O O CM O O O CO 0 0 m O 00 O CO nO CO O CM O O en CO 3 O «l u- 6 H O Q 0 rH m cm -J >o n -J CO NO NO O cm NO o> in m in NO ON m nO CO CM O CO m -J as en m CO en p- en en CO OS V «J 3 C C tH O -1 "J -H X O 0 C h ■h 3 0 0 fH Ph S 0 a O en 0 0 nO CM O O -T CM 0 in O -J- O O NO O CO •n 0 -J *n in O as CO CM 0 ON O JO CTN CM 0 Cn( CO 0 00 CM c tn a> 01 »-< z C 41 03 4-1 »* 4> O O O I-t cn NO CO c% cr» 0 m m O -3" en 0 o> cn rH CO NO ON 0 £3 en m 0 O O O 0 0 0 O O 0 a> O vO as CC ON in 4> a i u CO : V B ■M U 0 Q O O CM •H M en CM m NO O CO m •-4 0 O 0 CM O O O 0 0 CO CM O 00 .-t cn rH -J ON 0 C > O O O r-- O vO O < 4J C -H Q (J O O X rH ft) > O O NO O rH m CM CO O CM CO O NO CO 0 O 0 m Ci 0 NO O as en NO m en rH 01 ^ ID U E 0 ci D U 3 z S3 to CM CM CO -J CM CM «rt iH CM CM - CM rH - 4) *J (=1 O 5 OO nO NO O CM m NO CM1 CD CM O in CM PN| ON m CO CM NO m c c 0 0 ^ >, *J C «J •d u O O *3 O r a 0 —i 8) -J - O —1 J3 O 0 3 7) O. u an (0 CI r> t-3 C <3 Irt 3 -J in u c K VI O C V 5S "J 0 -^ 5 *o O •O c 0 t: 01 Pi 3 c c 0 0 *-« r. «o r) « - O m «r> O en -* en ■n O ^ ao On J3 to 2 C cd X! aJ ft 0) CO 6 o o •H +-> V) •H 4-> CTJ ■P co +-> 0) j-i ^1 CJ o PQ < 18 Net flow was decidedly down-canyon at the bottom, at right angles to the canyon at 19 m, and diagonal to the canyon at 34 m. If there is a level at which the direction is reversed, as is suggested by the spiraling directions reported, it appears to be at a height greater than 34 m above the bottom. Evidence from pairs of stations in La Jolla, Santa Monica, Santa Cruz, Heuneme, Carmel, and Monterey Canyons exists [Shepard, Marshall, and McLaughlin, 1974b] to show internal waves being propagated along the canyon axes, and a close relationship in the direction of flow patterns at various heights above the canyon floors (up to 34 m) has been estab- lished. The evidence relating observed currents to internal waves includes the following: (i) the currents oscillate coherently at various heights above the bottom; (ii) the coherently oscillating systems advance along the canyons at velocities greater than the current velocities; (iii) the phase velocity is not correct for surface waves, but is the right order of magnitude for internal waves; (iv) similar types of currents and phase velocities occur on the contin- ental shelf; (v) internal waves move up-canyon in all but one example, which is consistent with the general landward propagation of internal waves across the continental shelf. By fitting together the current patterns at adjacent stations, displacing one station record relative to the other by a period of time proportional to the distance between the two stations, internal wave propagations speeds of 25 to 88 cm/sec have been calculated. 19 Although no relation between surface wind conditions and divergence of current flow from the canyon axes could be determined from early records, recent records show strong cross-canyon flows during periods of high cross-canyon wind. These cross-canyon surges also appear to have a tidally- influenced repetition cycle, and have highest speeds and longest durations in canyon areas with broad floors [Shepard, Marshall, and McLaughlin, 1974a]. Gatje and Pizinger [1965] made bottom current measurements in the head of Monterey Submarine Canyon in a water depth of 130 m utilizing an Ekman current meter placed 4.8 m above the bottom. Currents were observed to follow the canyon axes, with seaward flow on the rising tide and coastward flow on the falling tide. Current speed was sometimes fairly steady and other times variable, ranging between 0 and 41 cm/sec and with a median speed of 10 cm/sec. During the 6-hr period cen- tered around low tide the meters recorded currents that were, in general, considerably stronger than the currents recorded during the similar period of time centered around high tide. An investigation of near-bottom currents in the head of Monterey Submarine Canyon was conducted by Dooley [1968] between March 1967 and May 1968. Continuous observations of water temperature, current speed, and direction were obtained over periods ranging from 5 hr to 162 hr using an internally recording Savonius - rotor current meter. Basic statistical parameters and power spectra were calculated for each record. These revealed an average current speed of about 12 cm/sec 20 and current directions indicating flow reversals predominantly along the canyon axis. Current and water temperature oscilla- tions indicated a strong semi-diurnal component. Water tem- perature changes also showed seasonal variation that agreed with the seasonal means of the region. Current speeds as high as 52 cm/sec were recorded. Njus [1968] made continuous bottom current measurements in the head of Monterey Submarine Canyon at water depths ranging from 146 to 201 m utilizing an internally recording Savonius- rotor current meter placed approximately 12 m above the bottom. Coincident wind, wave, and tide data were obtained along with the current measurements. Basic statistical param- eters and power spectra were then computed for each time series, Current speeds in excess of 52 cm/sec were measured, with the current direction being predominantly along the canyon axis. Water temperature, current speed and current direction all exhibited cyclic fluctuations with a periodicity of about 6 hr which, in a presentation of scalar speed, is approximately equal to that of the semi-diurnal tide. Warm, low-speed cur- rents were reported flowing down-canyon on the rising tide. Even though this relation between tidal phase and current direction was also reported by Gatje and Pizinger [1965] it seems somewhat incongruous. One might expect an incoming tidal wave to cause a cold, up-canyon current, but not the opposite. Average wind speeds were on the order of 10 kt (515 cm/ sec) with a characteristic onshore/offshore diurnal variation 21 and did not appear to have any significant effect on the near-bottom currents. Wave conditions ranged from calm seas to wave periods of 20 sec and heights of about 0.6 m. The longer period, higher- amplitude waves appeared to increase the magnitude of current speeds, but this relationship was not examined in detail. Caster [1969] measured near-bottom currents in Monterey Submarine Canyon and on the adjacent shelf using Savonius- rotor current meters. Simultaneous measurements were made with one current meter on the shelf at a depth of 91 m and one meter located in the canyon at 366 m. Current speed, current direction and water temperature were recorded con- tinuously for approximately 7 days in each record. Basic statistics were calculated and plotted for these time-series data. Scatter diagrams, progressive vector diagrams and power spectra were also computed and analyzed for the records collected during the study, and for available records of suf- ficient length from previous investigations. Net transport was in a cross-canyon direction for many of the records; however, the currents in the canyon oscillated as reported in previous investigations. The oscillations were not as evident on the shelf record. Mean and maximum current speeds recorded in the canyon were 10 cm/sec and 51 cm/sec, respectively. On the shelf these values were 7 cm/sec and 25 cm/sec, respectively. Observed values of net current direction and volume transport on the shelf appeared to be related to Monterey Bay seasonal water conditions. 22 Current direction was predominantly to the south during the oceanic period and latter part of the upwelling period; how- ever, a northward set was observed during the transition period between the Davidson Current and upwelling periods. Volume transport values changed significantly from the oce- anic period. These earlier investigations have provided a description of the general character of the currents in submarine canyons, with which the results of this investigation may be compared. Most have reported a net down-canyon flow (Table I) and all have noted the tidally-inf luenced periodicity of flow reversal. Vertically arrayed current meters have recorded current speeds decreasing with distance above the bottom. Previous investi- gators have emphasized the along-axis components of the currents; cross-canyon components have been mentioned only briefly and spectral analyses, when performed, have not been thoroughly interpreted. 23 II. EQUIPMENT AND OBSERVATIONAL PROCEDURES A. CURRENT MEASURING SYSTEMS 1 . Geodyne A- 100 Current Meter The Woods Hole Model A-100 Current Meter, manufactured by E.G.§ G. , Inc. (formerly Geodyne Corporation) in Waltham, Massachusetts, is a self-contained digital recording instru- ment measuring current direction and speed in the range from below 0.05 knots (2.6 cm/sec) to 5 knots (257 cm/sec) at depths to 6,000 m. All data are recorded on 16-mm photographic film. The power required is provided by a special 6-volt battery pack, and the record consists of 100 ft of film which permits 5,000 sets of rotor speed, vane, and compass direction read- ings. The current speed sensor is a Savonius rotor; the vane, which is part of the direction system, is read digitally along with an internal magnetic compass. The film can either be run continuously for 6.5 days or programmed to record currents intermittently for up to a year. A segment of the 16-mm film output is shown in Fig. 4. The seven intermittent black streaks on the left of the film, following the first continuous streak, show the orientation of the vane relative to a fixed direction within the instru- ment. The next seven streaks show the orientation of a compass relative to a fixed direction within the instrument. These streaks are made by points of light, transmitted via optical 24 — CONTINUOUS VANE 16mm FILM I I II I I READ ROTOR \0-\ ROTOR CI COMPASS ll 1 min.= -s Fig. 4. Format of 16 -mm film output. [From Richardson, Stimson, and Wilkins, 1963] Fig. 5. Encoding disk. [From Richardson, Stimson, and Wilkins, 1963] 25 fibers, that reach the film as permitted by the encoding disk shown in Fig. 5. The encoding disk is associated with both the vane recording and compass recording systems. Each of the two angles measured by this system can be resolved to 2.5 and the combination of the two angles provided the direction of the current referred to magnetic North. Each time the Savonius rotor of the meter goes around once, a black dot occurs in the first current channel; ten revolutions causes a dot in the next channel. At times, the rotor is turned so rapidly that the dots in the first channel are too close to be resolved; when this happens the second channel provides current speed information. Timing marks are provided in the last channel [E.G. 5 G., undated]. 2 . Hydro Products Model 502 Current Meter The Model 502 In-Situ Recording System, manufactured by Hydro Products in San Diego, California, is a self-contained instrument package which measures and records current speed, . current direction, and temperature. The underwater speed sensor is a Savonius rotor. Water movement past the sensor turns the rotor at an angular rate proportional to the speed of the flow. Ten magnets attached to the rotor close a mag- netic reed switch which is in series with a DC voltage source. The output from the sensor is a pulse train whose rate is proportional to the angular rate of the rotor and therefore proportional to the current speed. The rate is measured with a simple rate-meter circuit. 26 The current direction sensor consists of a microtorque potentiometer and compass. Current direction is measured with reference to magnetic North. The vane of the direction sensor is magnetically connected to the slider of the potentiometer, which is attached to the compass. When the potentiometer is energized by a d.c. voltage, the voltage output on the slider is proportional to its angle of deflection from magnetic North [Hydro Products, undated]. The electronics circuitry, battery, clock timer, and a Rustrak strip chart recorder are contained in an aluminum sphere. The Rustrak recorder incorporates a switching system that allows the three separate parameters to be recorded se- quentially as a function of time. The recording cycle is 7.5 min long; speed and temperature are recorded alternately at 4-sec intervals for 1.5 min followed by a 5-min record of speed and direction. The timer starts a new 7. 5-min recording cycle every half-hour. An example of the display obtained is shown in Fig. 6. The three functions are easily identified by the length of the imprint lines of the chart paper. B. RELEASE MECHANISM A timed release mechanism manufactured by the Braincon Corporation of Marion, Massachusetts, was used to return the current meter array to the surface. A quartz timer and elec- tronics from a Model 622 release was housed in a Model 422 pressure case. .When the timer counts to zero from a preset number, an explosive squib is fired releasing a cocking 27 DIRECTION SPEED TEMPERATURE Fig. 6. Format of strip chart output. [From Hydro Products, undated] 28 pawl which then allows the mechanism to separate from the anchor. C. CURRENT METER ARRAY All instruments used in this investigation were calibrated before deployment, either at the factory or using procedures specified in the operating manual. The array used to deploy the current meters is shown in Fig. 7. Three moorings were attempted but only one array was recovered. The successfully recovered array was deployed in Monterey Submarine Canyon in 485 m of water at position 36° 47.5'N latitude, 121° 54.2'W longitude, approximately 9.6 km WSW of Moss Landing. The statistics of the three moorings are summarized in Table II. Due to the length of the array, an "anchor- last" deploy- ment was made from the R/V ACANIA. As the emplacement site was approached, the array was streamed behind the ship, buoys first, with the anchor retained aboard. After the emplacement site was passed, the anchor was dropped and the array sank into place. 29 Subsurface Floats Aanderaa Current Melt I o a Hydro Products Current Meter Geodyne Current Met< Aanderaa Current Meter Release Mechanism Concre te Anc h( Fig. 7. Current meter array 30 CO U o3 E 03 4-> CO 36° 47.5' N 121° 54.2' W 485 m Z E£ E - t-~- o oo O . . r~^ ^ LO o o VO rH tO CsJ 36° 47.5' N 121° 54.2' W 485 m CO o •H ■P CO •H +-> 03 ■p CO bO PI •H J-I o o S m < 31 Ill . DATA ANALYSIS A. SAMPLING RATES AND DIGITIZING PROCEDURES The Geodyne A-100 current meter was programmed to sample speed and direction for 50 sec at 5-min intervals. The devel- oping and printing of the current meter film was handled by E.G.$ G., Environmental Equipment Division. An automatic film reader was then used to convert the Grey binary code on the film into digital form. This output was subsequently trans- ferred to punched computer cards. A characteristic of the computer program associated with the automatic film reader is that if the current meter records a speed below that designated as the threshold of sensitivity for the instrument an "implied zero" is printed. Since it is unlikely that currents in the canyon are really zero for any significant length of time, a value of 1.54 cm/sec, approxi- • mately half the threshold speed, was substituted for the implied zero value. This accounts for the apparent "floor" seen in the speed versus time graphs of the 30 m above-bottom record. When employing the Hydro Products Model 502 current meter one must choose betiveen a continuous record with a 7-day data storage capacity, or a 30-min sampling interval with a 30-day recording life. Since a long time series was desired, the 30-min sampling interval was selected. This rate was frequent enough to describe long period variations, but may have been 32 insufficient to fully describe high frequency variations of speed and direction. The resulting aliasing problem is dis- cussed later in this section. The analog strip chart data was digitized at 30-min inter- vals using calibration plates supplied with the instrument and the resulting numbers punched onto computer cards. B. ELEMENTARY STATISTICS Program SUBMARINE CANYON (Appendix A) , an extensive modification of a program written by Dooley [1968] , was used to compute the basic statistics of the current meter data, as listed below. The outputs from SUBMARINE CANYON include: (1) hourly means, (2) daily means, medians, modes, and frequency distributions, and (3) time series means, medians, modes, standard deviations, and direction histograms. 4 Average speed is defined as a simple arithmetic mean. For N speed observations, V., the average is defined as: - 1 N V = tt Z V. j N ._, i average speed However, to give more physical meaning to an average velocity a vector average, obtained by using the mean north and east components as shown below, is used to define an average direction: - 1 N V = tr I (V- sin 9-) average east component 33 - 1 N Vn= m E (Vi cos ei) average north component n in i = 1 1 1 ve 0 = arctan (zr~) average direction V n where G. is the i direction observation. C. GRAPHIC DISPLAYS OF CURRENT METER DATA 1 . Histograms The direction histograms (Fig. 8a and 8b) are also an output of SUBMARINE CANYON. The range of directions is divided into 10 intervals and the frequency of occurrence of directions within each interval is computed and plotted. The most common values of direction and the variances about them are readily determined by examination of the histograms. It is physically misleading, however, to interpret the independent modal values of direction as a description of an average velocity vector; the directions plotted do not use coincident current speeds as weighting factors and there- fore do not accumulate to a vector average. Vector scatter diagrams are more indicative of flow direction. 2. Scatter Diagrams Scatter diagrams (Fig. 9 and 10) are used to complement the histograms. These polar plots of the current vectors clearly associate speeds with directions and give a more pre- cise physical meaning to the bi-modal character of the flow suggested by the direction histograms. However, because large vectors obscure small ones, this type of presentation is 34 z o o cr VlVQ dO 1N30 d3d £ cd U E bo o o +-> +-> *J CO O •H X3 ffi o o •H r +-» a o H g DO O O +J ■M +J CO O •H ,a DC O O •H X> ■t-> rt u H Q H to CD 4-> i •H to +-> o o P.O e o o cj to i— I 60 •H PL, H Q Cu W •H CD 6 • H +-> •V • c\ tfi U DO (U C •H 4-> ^^ £ o S rt o L) 5h Q O G to •H CD •P i t/1 •H T3 O o o CD CuO CU 6 00 o en (_} •H I in O > o. o o OO c 0 •H •H •0 01 PU ~ u O 09f < <: rt 0 fH 2 Q I— 1 o ■p 1 ■H t/1 ■p o o ftO e o rH u to bO •H 44 co C •H u q ; o «* C\J CO *> o > &. o 6 Z E o 0 CJ to o 8 CVJ A 01 > a o « rg p B "" o m c 00 0 •H CV U Hh V) 00 C •H £ oJ > $H 0 O 2 •H i CO O > a. o e 2; o u cm en § 00 «l •H i Uh •H a s 14 h r-t 5 45 i/) DO C •H £ 03 > fH O Q 2: o o ■M •H 1 w o > iX o E O a e 2: o s U LO • > I . (0 CNJ E CM o r> C • 0 bO •H 11 u n- •H Q 2 •M •H 1 01 O Q* O > o 00 •H 46 (A •H cd Q > o 2 O oo +-> •H l LO O > Ph O 6 2 O U r- «3- bo •H PL, CO bo P! •H £ 0} > >-< o Q S3 •H 1 (/) o > PL. O 6 2 o u vO •H 47 / 09£ in C •H £ > cd o ?- 2: Q o 0) rH +-> •H 1 O > Ph o s z o CJ en CM DO •1— i PL, V ~ .=? ^ 09£ I/) SO •H Q 2 •P •H 1 P o o o 00 p E LO O C OJ O rj 8 GO •H " Uh 48 60 C •H > £ o 03 Z M Q r-i <— < 1 •H O O cxz e o H t_> rH oo CM 00 •H 09E 8 5 •H OJ 2 5h CD •H o > o PUZ 6 O O 6 t^ o (Nl C 0 4J 0 bO 5 •H H Q Uh 49 C •H > 2 o tf Z $h P ** r-l o 4-> 1 •H W > O O PhZ s o to u H o to •H tin £ I 5 o 4 > a 13 • E CTi O Cs] C 0 0 •H 14 u+ V) 00 c •H > £ c oj 2: Jh O to iH o o PhZ e O r i U i-l 50 employed: values were picked off the strip chart by hand and points of cross-over were avoided. D. ALIASING The Hydro Products Model 502 current meter, with a 30-min sampling interval, has a cutoff frequency, defined by: f = yr , where h = sampling interval, of one cycle per hour. Therefore, although useful for resolving tidally-generated fluctuations, this sampling rate is useless for defining frequencies higher than 1 cycle/hr. Furthermore, the lower frequencies will be contaminated by high frequencies if the latter are present in the signal before sampling. E. HIGHER ORDER STATISTICS Autospectra and cross- spectra were calculated for the two time series using BMD 02T, a computer program from the Health Sciences Computing Facility at UCLA. A constant time interval of 30.0 min was used; 50 lags, equalling 7.21 of the data, were chosen to provide adequate resolution in the power spectral estimates, and all data were detrended to remove any frequency components whose periods were longer than the record length. 51 IV. DISCUSSION The discussion which follows deals with the recorded data on two levels: (i) the apparent characteristics, which describe the general character of the current flow and are determined by examination of the various graphic presenta- tions; (ii) the spectral characteristics, which describe the variability of the time series and the character of their periodic and irregular oscillations. A. APPARENT CHARACTERISTICS Very generally, the currents observed during the course of this investigation were similar in character to those ob- served and reported on by previous investigators. Current directions oscillated up and down or across the canyon and speeds (the scalar magnitude of current vectors) were variable with recorded maxima of the order of 20 cm/sec. Table III shows a summary of the elementary statistics from both current meter records. The mean speed for each record was significantly lower than those reported by earlier investigators; speed variations, instead of oscillating smoothly, appeared as a series of peaks or spikes, particu- larly in the case of the record 30 m above-bottom (Fig. 15 through 24) . The volume transport (in cubic meters/hour) calculated in program VECTOR DRAW (Appendix C) was also sig- nificantly lower than that reported by other investigators, and is particularly interesting in that the rate of flow 52 30 m Above Bottom 60 m Above Bottom Mean scalar speed Mean up- canyon component Mean cross-canyon component Mean velocity Maximum scalar speed Maximum up -canyon component Maximum cross -canyon component a (scalar speeds) a (up- canyon) a (cross- canyon) Vector mean direction 2.01 cm/sec 0.309 cm/sec 0.131 cm/sec 0.336 cm/sec 17.50 cm/sec 6.36 cm/sec 8 . 67 cm/sec 1.41 cm/sec 0.945 cm/sec 0.985 cm/sec 4.19 cm/sec 0. 003 cm/sec 0.978 cm/sec 0.978 cm/sec 21 . 62 cm/sec 9.56 cm/ sec 18. 01 cm/sec 3 . 95 cm/sec 0.039 cm/sec 0.073 cm/sec 193.16 o 217.89 o Volume transport/hr (per square meter) 12.08 m3/hr 36.97 m3/hr TABLE III. Elementary Current Statistics 53 increases with distance above bottom. Although this is the condition commonly found in the open ocean, it is contrary to the results, presented by other investigators, of current studies in submarine canyons. Current directions oscillated fairly smoothly with a discernible period of about 12 hr , with higher- frequency oscillations superimposed (Fig. 15 through 30). The fre- quencies of oscillation of the scalar speeds are sometimes doubled due to the rectification that is inherent with this type of plot. The direction histograms (Fig. 8a and 8b) show the characteristic bi-modal shape expected of a record from within the narrow confines of the canyon. The canyon axis at the investigation site is oriented 080 - 260 . The dominant modes of the direction histogram from the 30 m above-bottom record (Fig. 8a) indicate that the flow is predominantly along the canyon axis at that depth. The direction histogram from the 60 m above-bottom record (Fig. 8b), however, shows dominant modes perpendicular to the canyon axis indicating that the flow has a strong cross-canyon component. This is confirmed by the scatter diagram for this level (Fig. 14). This cross-canyon flow obviously cannot continue for any great distance because of the canyon walls; local direction deviations due to topography must therefore occur. The causes of this cross-canyon flow are speculative. As mentioned earlier, Shepard, Marshall and McLoughlin [1974a] have suggested a relation between the occurrence of cross- canyon winds and cross-canyon current surges, and noted a 54 repetition cycle that is apparently tidally influenced. In deep canyons the cross-canyon flow may be caused by local topographic effects, or by semi-permanent eddy structures along the canyon walls. It may also be due to intrusion into the canyon of motions along the continental slope. The direction of net transport can be inferred from the progressive vector diagrams (Fig. 9 and 10) by noting the apparent net direction of particle movement. This direction is 220 for the record 30 m above bottom and 330 for the record 60 m above bottom. These diagrams are drawn to the same length scale so that relative flows may be seen. The expanded diagrams (Fig. 11 and 12) fill the printing frame and more clearly show the details of the flow, but have dif- ferent scales. In these diagrams successive 24-hr periods are marked with an "X". The composite drawings of current direction versus time (Fig. 15 through 30) clearly show oscillatory changes of direction with a dominant period of approximately 12 hr. This characteristic is particularly apparent in the record 30 m above bottom, due to the higher sampling rate employed there, but can also be seen in the record 60 m above bottom. There is a phase difference between the two levels of about 4 hr. It is interesting that the 4-hr time period corresponds to 90° of tidal rotation. It is not clear, however, that the observed 90 (approximate) angular displacement between the two levels has its cause in this factor. The vertical coher- ence of these oscillations will be discussed in the section on spectral characteristics. 55 Speed oscillations are much less clearly defined in both records, but peaks tend to occur every 5 to 6 hr, which is characteristic of a reversing current with a 10- to 12-hr period. A relationship between peak speeds and direction is not evident in these graphs, but may clearly be seen in the graphs of up-canyon and cross-canyon components versus time (Fig. 31 and 32). B. SPECTRAL CHARACTERISTICS Power spectral estimates of the two time series were generated to identify the frequencies which contribute to the overall variability of the series. Spectral estimates are presented in a linear plot against frequency to avoid the area distortion of the common logarithmic presentation. Power spectra were computed for (i) up-canyon velocity 60 m above bottom (Fig. 33); (ii) cross-canyon velocity 60 m above bottom (Fig. 34); (iii) up-canyon velocity 30 m above bottom (Fig. 35); (iv) cross-canyon velocity 30 m above bottom (Fig. 36). Aperiodic fluctuations and surges, possibly due to sol- itary internal waves or eddies from the California Current, are reflected in the very low frequency portions of the spectra. The phase, coherence, and cross-spectral estimates were computed between: (i) 60 m up-canyon velocity and 30 m up- canyon velocity; (ii) 60 m cross-canyon velocity and 30 m cross-canyon velocity; (iii) 60 m cross-canyon velocity and 30 m up-canyon velocity. 56 o _? -°- o CD > O £1 O to 0) 6 •H H to 3 to > O O CD > O o 6 CO > •P G u o u •H Q to •H or "Br 6 01 m/ai NOANVD-Wn . NOANVD-MMO0 « er Mi/ma (H) HOANVO-SSOMD (S)HOANVD- SSO»D 58 .04 E a w w < CO UJ -I < cr h- O HI a CO cr UJ O a .00 .00 .012 .016 FREQUENCY (CYCLE/MIN) Fig. 33. Power Spectral Estimate, Up-Canyon Component 60 m above bottom 59 E a < H CO UJ _l < a. \- o LU a. (0 cc UJ o 0- _^\^ .00 .00 .004 .008 .012 FREQUENCY (CYCLE/MIN) .016 Fig. 34. Power Spectral Estimate, Cross-Canyon Component 60 m above bottom 60 .075 LU »- <" co UJ < IX I- o UJ 0. CO cc UJ o Q. .037 .00 .008 FREQUENCY (CYCLE/MIN) Fig. 35. Power Spectral Estimate, Up-Canyon Component 30 m above bottom 61 .06 HI < w UJ < a. F- O UJ Q. CO CC UJ o 0- .03 .00 .00 .004 .008 .012 FREQUENCY (CYCLE/MIN) .016 Fig. 36. Power Spectral Estimate, Cross-Canyon Component 30 m above bottom 62 Power spectral estimates for the 30 m up-canyon and 60 m cross-canyon components are very clean, each with a dominant peak at a period of 12.4 hr. The 30 m cross-canyon spectrum also shows this peak, but has more noise in the higher fre- quencies. The 12.4-hr peak does not appear in the 60 m up- canyon spectrum; the highest energy in this spectrum, which is far noisier than the others, occurs at a period of approx- imately 24 hrs. The frequency content of the component pairs previously listed was clearly visible in the cross-covariances . Again, the 12.4-hr period was prominent, particularly in the up-canyon and cross-canyon component pairs. Coherences were low and noisy. The cross-covariance of the 30 m up-canyon and 60 m cross-canyon records also showed the prominent 12.4-hr period for most of the record, but values of the cross-covariance function hovered near zero for one segment of the record. Although there are several possible causes for this phenomenon, such as phase changes or effects indirectly related to a change from even to uneven tides, no obvious solution to the problem presents itself except to use longer time series in the future. 63 V. CONCLUSIONS The directional trends recorded, particularly the very strong cross-canyon component of the 60 m above-bottom record, further support the contention of Shepard and Marshall [1973b] that there may be a level above the bottom beyond which current direction is reversed. The cross-canyon flow may also be due to the intrusion of currents along the continental slope into the canyon. Since the coherence values are lower than might be expected from two current meters separated by only 30 m, it is possible that the upper instrument was in the vicinity of a near-bottom boundary layer, perhaps caused by a moving sus- pension of sediments in the bottom layer. It is also possible that the coherence has degenerated from the effects of noise. Previous investigators have reported decreasing current speeds with distance above the bottom. The higher speeds and volume transport values obtained from the instrument 60 m above the bottom were therefore unexpected, but not unreasonable. One would expect near-bottom current speeds to be lower because of bottom friction. Continuous down-slope sediment transport could be a factor contributing to higher current speeds very near the bottom. If, however, the 60 m currents are associ- ated with along-slope currents rather than down-canyon flow, the higher speeds are not surprising. The 12.4-hr oscillations revealed in the spectral analysis are undoubtedly due to tides or tidally influenced phenomena. 64 The cause or causes of the shorter period oscillations, however, remain unidentified. These shorter periods of oscillation are of the proper order of magnitude for internal waves and the differing amounts of energy occurring in the higher frequency portions of the up-canyon spectral estimates could be explained by the diverse mode patterns associated with internal waves. Current flow 30 m above the bottom is predominantly along the canyon axis and appears to be tidally-driven. This current is probably related to a steady down-canyon transport of sus- pended sediment. At 60 m above the bottom the current is a well established cross-canyon flow that is only slightly per- turbed by up- and down-canyon tidal oscillations. This can be seen in the progressive vector diagram (Fig. 10). Coherence between the two current meter records is low and noise-like, and the two signals are essentially not correlated. Further investigations to define the complex nature of current flow in submarine canyons are clearly warranted. Ver- ification of the above hypotheses could be accomplished by a series of multiple instrument/multiple array investigations with current meters deployed at 3 m, 30 m, 60 m, and 90 m above the bottom and arrays spaced at 4 km intervals, approx- imately one-fourth the wavelength of an internal wave, along the canyon axis. 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U_—» »-x- - «• - Lur\i m 2_ ■}?• >j- z i-it-* •» •> * •> O >(M LU OM Z) <(NJ — > -0 ~.~-w— ^ — ^-~- w .^.^.— w h- w ^— > <•— k-— o a: s: 11 11 lu z i — 1 — 1 — 1 — • — 1 — 1 — 1 1 — ■ — " k— 1 — 1 — 1 — ULJ X>LU IU —I II LU 2T HLU <<<< ook < >-< lu luhh 1— 1— >-> _j i— mq Qcacoict:a:(Xa:oiOa:" uia:oi~.Q o LUct: &: ctx. 0 >ctr 3 z>of>- doooqoouhq qjocjz O >3: < <^; h- k-2 > >o -^ r\i,-o^m -..--(-^-^--(-^--(rM (\j r\j<\ir\ir\j KJ{J <~>i^<^> U><^>U UUiJ O 82 REFERENCES Caster, William A. 1969. Near-bottom currents in Monterey Submarine Canyon and on the adjacent shelf. M.S. thesis, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, Ca. 204 p. Dooley, J.J. 1968. Near bottom currents in Monterey Sub- marine Canyon. M.S. thesis, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, Ca. 58 p. E.G. ^ G. , Inc., Waltham, Mass. Operating manual, Woods Hole Current Meter, Model A-100. Loose leaf. n.p. Gatje, P.H. , and D.D. Pizinger. 1965. Bottom current measurements in the head of Monterey Submarine Canyon. M.S. thesis, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, Ca. 61 p. Hydro Products, Inc., San Diego, Ca. Operation and mainten- ance instructions for in-situ current speed, current direction and temperature recording system, Model 502. 49 p. Njus, J.J. 1968. Environmental factors affecting near-bottom currents in Monterey Submarine Canyon. M.S. thesis, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, Ca. 80 p. Richardson, W.S., P.B. Stimson, and C.H. Wilkins. 1963. Current measurements from moored buoys. Deep Sea Res. 10: 369-388. Shepard, F.P., R.R. Revelle, and R.S. Dietz. 1939. Ocean bottom currents off the California coast. Science 165: 177-178. Shepard, F.P. and R.F. Dill. 1966. Submarine canyons and other sea valleys. Rand McNally and Company, Chicago. 381 p. Shepard, F.P. 1967. Submarine canyon origin; based on deep-diving vehicle and surface ship operations. Revue de Geographie Physique et de Geographie Dynamique 9: 347-356. Shepard, F.P. and N.F. Marshall. 1969. Currents in La Jolla and Scripps Submarine Canyons. Science 165: 177-178. Shepard, F.P. and N.F. Marshall.. 1973a. Storm generated current in La Jolla Submarine Canyon, California. Marine Geology 4: 19-24. 83 Shepard, F.P. and N.F. Marshall. 1973b. Currents along floors of submarine canyons. Am. Assoc. Petroleum Geologists Bull. 57: 244-264. Shepard, F.P., N.F. Marshall, and P. A. McLoughlin. 1974a. Currents in submarine canyons. Deep Sea Res. 21: 691-706. Shepard, F.P., N.F. Marshall, and P. A. McLoughlin. 1974b. "Internal waves" advancing along submarine canyons. Science 183: 195-198. Webster, F. 1964a. Some perils of measurements from moored ocean buoys. Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Reference No. 64-18. 16 p. Unpublished manuscript. Webster, F. 1964b. Processing moored current meter data. Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute Reference No. 64-55. 35 p. Unpublished manuscript. 84 INITIAL DISTRIBUTION LIST No. Copies 1. Department of Oceanography, Code 58 3 Naval Postgraduate School Monterey, CA 93940 2. Dr. Robert S. Andrews 2 Naval Postgraduate School Monterey, CA 93940 3. Lt. John E. Hollister, Code 3100 2 Naval Oceanographic Office < Washington, DC 20373 4. Dr. Robert G. Paquette 2 Naval Postgraduate School Monterey, CA 93940 5. Defense Documentation Center 2 Cameron Station Alexandria, VA 22314 6. Library (Code 0212) Naval Postgraduate School Monterey, CA 93940 2 7. Dr. Alfred J. Carsola Lockheed Ocean Laboratory 3380 N. Harbor Drive San Diego, CA 92101 1 8. Dr. Francis P. Shepard Scripps Institution of Oceanography P.O. Box 1529 La Jolla, CA 92037 1 9. Dr. David Smith David D. Smith and Associates P.O. Box 429-E Pacific Beach, CA 92109 1 10. Dr. Robert E. Stevenson Scientific Liaison Office, ONR Scripps Institution of Oceanography La Jolla, CA 92037 1 11. Oceanographer of the Navy Hoffman II 200 Stoval Street Alexandria, VA 22332 85 1 i ■ -i 12. Library, Code 3330 Naval Oceanographic Office Washington, DC 20373 13. Office of Naval Research Code 480 Arlington, VA 22217 14. SIO Library University of California, San Diego P.O. Box 2367 La Jolla, CA 92037 15. Department of Oceanography Library University of Washington Seattle, WA 98105 16. Department of Oceanography Library Oregon State University Corvallis, OR 97331 17. Commanding Officer Fleet Numerical Weather Central Monterey, CA 93940 18. Commanding Officer Environmental Prediction Research Facility Monterey, CA 93940 19. Department of the Navy Commander Oceanographic System, Pacific Box 1390 FPO San Francisco, 96610 86 Thesis ! 52712 H686S Hoi lister c.l Currents in Monterey Submarine Canyon. SXn Monterey Subm-rin^Canyon. 3 2768 002 06919 7 DUDLEY KNOX LIBRARY