DIWaul
renee

‘a. A es
2 ee ay fae

Minnie Burgle

This is truly the ‘‘National American Dahlia,"’ raised by the gardener of the Mare Island Navy Yard, San Francisco, and an
honor to ‘‘Uncle Sam”’ as well as the raiser, who named it Mrs. Mina Burgle, in honor of his wife. Unfortunately it was sent out as
Minnie Burgle. Mrs. Mina Burgess and other names f

We are glad to credit Mr. Burgle the honor of producing the best all-around red dahlia in cultivation. A strong, vigorous
grower, early, continuous and free bloomer, a good keeper and root maker; in addition to its large size, fine form and vivid color.
It deserves a place in every American collection

THE DAHLIA

A PRACTICAL TREATISE
ON

ITS HABITS, CHARACTERISTICS, CULTIVATION
AND HISTORY

BY

LAWRENCE K. PEACOCK

BEAUTIFULLY ILLUSTRATED

FIED EY EDITION

PUBLISHED BY
PEACOCK DAHLIA FARMS

BERLIN, N. J., U.S. A-

ie. “a
at ia!
~ /
“I | ©

PAEONY-FLOWERED DAHLIA, MRS. WM. KERR
Showing its natural habit of blooming in clusters of three: showing bud, half opened, and fully-developed
flower. Comparison with foliage shows the larg2 size; you can conceive the result when disbudded

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1916, by
PEACOCK DAHLIA FARMS

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington All rights reserved

{
@c.a456834

FEB 14 1917

Contents

CHAPTER PAGE
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Sly Comeltnalingoleereneiksy on acd oto endte p oomnicoih oie SOc n baa Aero HOES RE ete Seat meer nei ieee MER Le Yo 53
ISIN Mas, Avianca IDAIN AS Socicinels eau nabh seca soba LA SC COTO OOO DEO COREE PASO OAD Ton Sen Goer eaen Mae 55
PNUD S el eClpleistioi: sVarebleseena cr Army oe Note oatactelate tharos ee ie eer ayeiesafeishe ne seem ete aie oe bos see Lr ase 59

Allustrations

Frontispiece—Minnie Burgle.” PAGE
Pzony Flowered Dahlia, “Mirs. Wim. Kerr? 0.2 o1..ceie a oe ceeieiece wie eieiein sini tinin'e oe oo las a0 wie eleicie sie leleinisie = oinieisie 2
Shown Wahlias “Princess Wictoriass «(tveld Gvieiwa)icccrcrve cvevers terete ceecelet tele slsterea elena /ejoven siti alsieterere auetenel fs forsyetereKeloreter=varefelo 6
Duplexe Mah liatieMirmes Fox @Ossar cect syeyeneiees eistersctevelsre lover eseteberecaye betas ct hentia cere abaya afer chetors)cleteteh teh einisteatt stork teatctte 8
Show: Dahlian sD orothiysp be acoclcamereyerarcierste ety stastraetevete/oreterae cneicclelars eto is| ce tsieta fo ernie cesar faite sleep treet rere 9
<Mahliamum. eG Ghrysanthemumeshaped sD abil icy) rete: sc-:-t-te/elelarsiaini-teteretaters cletecieiete io retorsieielietelelelenete ovens reieters 10
StashornmlDalhilia: ce rexersrerstevcrete = cystevare orescsyccotarsy=is easvase a) =toles ster iavoveleVe) ay feted clay tershare sienelora)s jane? =fayatoleVetoXeaeKefones=tetetetete tt sttte 11
Assorted Grotipmanc nec ccise tine eastieiricensiays crises caerer ee a ern eR OE. Senne Baer yerO Odio cc 0.61 13
Decorativer Dalilianee Mel ody fie ysteryenr-vezeraitoralass ara ierereexerete aie e retell ete ic oka cau evoatfafareyovetal chant oketanedseeyeeetst syspet tener eps eiaens 14
Hybrid 'Gactus)Wahlia, MirsiG gelBrecksa..stcieseieielsfepeistcleleloleoa)-te seoheheroralstake eel otete ehelete ecoraleloisie oierre cachcemeerets 15
EiybriduGactus Dahlia, Masse) bs Mae, verre elec cic sles cersreistele leroy epeievetavere <2 feleteusieteletettetaysleratesretersl fer steateietelerets 16
Gactuss Dahlia, “Marjorie sGastletomt’ soci occorcsete ove or a-ayeqevsuons tolege @ SIR oie ees eredstis «ave of oss) sirveletes obehayeteroiens (lel hanenereyaleks 16
Gactiisa alaliag sare sy Cuchi sale Sore crs tee aaa eee a Te terete STN ral eraT cle ET Sra te eT ge Sr eee eo ae eases 17
GactisDahliaeeeeeS Boesmithyy os As isons ceca evererascroes aversuatetere areeiesere¥e rye ceceherevey ses) eo Sate aye ies pete teharatees eke Peete toe oeeeene 17
Showa Daliliawebithele Mat] 622420 cey- ros. cere ceeetere aie crascpsrenale yerera ve vote Feterersts eset epaKelolcicven sy suet cxels otetele efenereat tate = ety actel setters 18
DecorativesDahliawmvarcinial Males 2 crrcnvecrmiteertee sk ro sister seeiele st stereo rats ke = fs sfelstete terstyer meena (eae tate 18
Gactus sD ablia wears errtssicais Actor te maslonee Saree eweior hove @ Gesrevs sie, thers aie tls > Cho Ae mice Glories eisisie e ererr ester eee 21
BEV IDEN Mey AIDosdon hi ISIS no ogan Sedna oO ananbboos caubocnuUacoadunuac: boncoudamosdcadondcibabeoabac 23
Comparative sizes roots and! plants, sat. srockoceateriem exiles eintstare s eyeioee sTorsitetetenerate rola aseus eo een tetera tals fenspeereteteta 25
Specimen’ Blanta Show DahliasseStormm, Wir piers mroristetine slens siete tyetereretanelasaieren chs ete otelelovsbetslegetar etete efi talatsteieiaeetatete 27
Daliliavanel Ghia Wiatlatnaker se ssvenetsrs otcisvers cto isieicecy-ete cin vate ayecereraveiete etavererehe) level sioisia cralsnareleisroneyeseveretopater ere SOT S12 323933)
Spray, Showa Dalian Oro th ym bea COCK ec cya cyerteverors let feresei eter <cnyeetedekets rekersfeget evejey ot tatelsfayeAetehel of (etetorel fepraocetereretete 34
Habit ot Growthe Dahlia, “| ohne Wanatmale ti cesptasmneyeysterepoln oe) = asersterars oie elerele!s ofel olelaleieieainvolele «Wee peienicesteer peaeters 35
Peony, Wahlian obese ATIStITe Ways ayree ser. sere ws Leen a hice ora sie el eabeisarecsist vaveeereiataes estore sbHBSSo Maden nena 36
Decorative} Dahlian Dr: “byrrellvs: sascha ns. Sorcntes beeen rals eel cra siepieie oe oeiemslereke cise ia ee ore 38
Srey dri W Label teadc oeeecd Hes atnpG noe a enema ante. Aadon Ra edonG onary oN OG Gand oMaanee aohmn aac o 39
GiantaGenturysDahlia, “MrsmWendeldReber 2 cysvscty. ci nerere scorstols etree tetera yetereretel ofa) sfkerNehaiele me texenteiet terete eevee te iererers 40
Commercial’ Dahlia \Growita Seis. cccrasssccisos ov Svavs/e. scavels evens ge ss tele red Cede ae vevofa potst types erelenees ere tevelevevencl Mensys eteyetete reso aiecetets 41
TONS GUN Th Ree AIR Re REELS eT ae eR Ins ee tenia neti s Ge a SEs GaSe omiooseton aacdancddo croc ccd. 42
Cornero fblower- ROOT cus sce c ce ac she G sie ore Seika season hats ore ee aap Crererie sy oweate eastayete tatshayeoeer oman er see ayevaiets shay efeitos 43
Dahliast.Packedstor wShipmientt: myentecteeccracere stars ees see erie eierske eters eeheicl ac ec ter eee Ieee reese reer 43
DahliasiGrated: forsShipment. sc -\celfecvucierrs eucrtosee trotele oh oe ais utemicrs oinvetol ere sve ekoie orev cial ternetols tome eben eiieteteeeente ers 44
J D'dosiphuloyad DEVol Ke tyst ywleleb <aawars Ramen Ge oooh cmorouS oriae acm DobdooMcuS on co npoUmToUSooMcbD out oncom bead 46, 47
nk Gla Ato alent a DLs heen n Seen BREE Rees Sennen nah ae anos fooMnecn EDO odode odoGueAeuptommasenesauaanccc 48
GEO MD Flee 3 Rint ce pena anoocs op paddon poser bosons Cups cot oGndourscudbaUno ome sqoandcvoosbsacsd oxic 50
Decorative; Dahlia +Mirss Roosevelt? is seereversye se seteto iterate eteteene close tenete Neda ete oo eae (ete clet tat stolet fel eXel yr oteletetet etter 51
Dahlia Exhibit et exes. ever aero tiore tee tese c ilerosscbto ceed scoy8 con Mra o seannl Serge eisieua ase cte ooliiescie ati tan « etree a 52
Type-of Century Dahlia.......... Se Ca ree «Amc OR In Oted aon SMA Ae Sree ses Gdn 1obod By/
Cactus alilias es Mag pie ae cor crctsvecy. sete ale cteveretere sletatetate era stones tere tonctoismeleterenereyer ete tonegene ee eral (eee teint tates seem tere 00
(CES IDEN ME MN Ge ID lal aattelet ons otgeoombnes conto UG eoUU OUD O<.0OUGOnsne conEUGbosppoabosEschaSSaomGohSC Cc 62
GactussDahliay Snowden’ saccccae asciatine ackosniete cet aisles teats acl shey eee aerate ere eee tee ee etree 03
Gactus#Dahlias eSatistactionis -a-e ase eer BU GUO CU RnOE SE BUGHHOCOO OUDS > ~Urgrodnusosesopoobessaacudsooosas o4
DecorativerDahlias <Ny mphiceas seas rcetterelcretee atte masta c ieeeiatecier Verere Mee teiage ettencd els cen Te erate ren oer aero ore 65
Decorative Dahlia; “Jack Rose a5. < cewsiincle eters sine Gein cke oe creiuele! oBMbareyyoves -Pevets eke ae verac to toye ete Speers aber otse tens tetete 66
Decorative;Dahliay “Morocco: casncs sachin cn teeth teas cee ae eee cee ere ee ree Sen eeeeeeeerr 67
Decorative Dahlia: “Mrs. Gardner Cassatt) seas certo tert cis teks ecelelsie ere retells severity e) reese reteset 68
Shows Dahliay vA. SD AvOmiy., Misia 2s cee orsyece tierra nel eee te eee ote aera ated ged eee sot ee ete eee 69
Group) of Pompon Dahliasis fin... se eerectaiis od state teers etele oo) oe cloes Carey sts cts ecient see 71
Peony Dahlia “Lullingstone™ PEASE ARE Sob HOS QhonmuoBoSachosousnsrudnauscoUSsop CUasSHeoEdeAOOUC 72
BasketiGentury Dalilias’ vs cere say oe estes sca ane te chee TT LIT STO ear TCT 74
Century, Dahlia, “Gladiys’) acta cisccdat cccsoprte a Seresitisitiettiietnre ote oeiehere a0] ome Yere el eestor atte eee ae ea en eer 75
Giant Single Dalilia, ‘Velvet fess rors soe ee eee ee eee 77
GroupwofGollarette Dahlias. crac cote oe ae cere etre ae Teele oe ee eee Tae eae 78
Anemone Dahlias ........... sda Giosyssevgtasditace Bhs a PS areas a aoe othe tere gL NUeS store eal tote eG Ay coool eae ae 80

Iutromeution

HE progress made in floriculture in America during recent years is almost past comprehen-
sion. Great floral establishments, aggregating hundreds, if not thousands, of acres of
glass, have been reared with marvelous rapidity. Hundreds of thousands of acres are

annually devoted exclusively to the cultivation of flowers. Thousands of horticultural clubs and
societies have been formed for the purpose of hclding exhibitions and further developing flori-
culture, with most gratifying results. Everywhere greater attention is given, not only to the
flower garden, but the floral decorations of the lawn. Nor does this interest stop with the
autumn frosts and wintry blasts. Flowers are so greatly appreciated that conservatories are
erected and window gardens are prepared, that blooming plants may always be near to gladden
the heavy hearts and revive the drooping spirit when troubles come or cares oppress. They are
rapidly becoming such a necessary luxury that many cannot and will not. be content without
them. They are, indeed, the joy alike of the rich and the poor, the old and the young; in success
or in adversity they are ever our friends, gratefully repaying our small attentions with their
profusion of bloom.

At the beginning of each year we dream of delightful grounds and beautiful flowers—
flowers for all purposes—flowers so beautiful that our homes promise to be, indeed, a para-
dise of surpassing loveliness. Our dreams are more than realized during May and June, when we
find roses, flowering shrubs, and bulbs in endless variety, to say nothing of other flowers, bloom-
ing everywhere in the greatest profusion. But our dreams do not last. June and our flowers, at
least most of them, bid us adieu. It is now that we need a first-class flower that will fill our
empty vases, beautify our lawns; in fact a flower that will completely fill the space between roses
and chrysanthemums, when other good flowers are not plentiful. Flower after flower has been
tried until at last it became evident that the “Dahlia” was the only flower having the proper quali-
fications. As soon as this fact was realized, interest was at once aroused; skilled specialists
began producing exquisite varieties, and the Dahlia entered on a new era of popularity.

Not only have the older forms and classes been improved, but new types have been produced
for special purposes. The most important of these new types are the Cactus, Decorative and
Paeony Flowering varieties, which, with their exquisite forms, superb colors, beautifully blended
shades and tints, have only to be seen to become favorites with all. Dahlias are of the easiest

culture; yet there are drawbacks to their successful cultivation by the amateur. Many devote

on

6 THE DATTA:

considerable time and expense to their culture, and fail to get the best results, simply because
their well meant intentions were not beneficial, to say the least. The Dahlia can be grown to
perfection in every garden with but little care and expense, if attention is given to its simple
requirements.

There are, however, few American works on the subject from which the amateur can
secure needed information, while foreign works are of little value, owing to the difference in
soil and climatic conditions. It is to supply this long felt want and to enable every one to grow
lovely Dahlias, even under adverse conditions, that the writer presents this small treatise to the
American public.

In the following chapters can be found, in a clear and concise form, such information as
has been gleaned from years of practical experience. Particular stress has been laid on several
facts, especially upon the necessity of frequent stirring of the surface soil to prevent excessive
evaporation of moisture. Many think the only necessity of cultivation is to keep down the weeds ;
but, positively, weeds do little more harm than hard baked surface soil. The illustrations herein
given speak volumes for themselves on this subject; the field views and specimen plants are
reproduced from photographs taken right out in the field; in many cases after long periods of
extended drought, and are intended to show that Dahlias can be grown successfully, even under
adverse conditions, rather than what can be grown, all things favorable. It is the aim of the
writer to make the path to successful Dahlia culture so pleasant and easy that all may wish to
travel it, knowing full well that once they are planted the pleasure derived will be so great that
they will ever after be cultivated and highly prized. Neither labor nor expense has been spared
in making this little treatise attractive, useful, and true to nature, that it may receive a cordial

welcome in every flower-loving home.

AE DARIIETA:

N

GHAP TER A

THE DAHLIA.

HE Dahlia (Dahlia Variabilis of Linnzeus) is a tender tuberous rooted perennial, a native
of Mexico, and was first discovered by Baron Humboldt in 1789. It was sent by him
to Prof. Cavenilles, of the Botanical Gardens, Madrid, who named it Dahlia, in honor of

the celebrated Swedish botanist, Prof. Andrew Dahl. It was introduced into England in the same
year (1789) by the Marchioness of Bute, who secured a plant from Prof. Cavenilles. Although
this plant was grown under glass and received the greatest care, the stock was finally lost, and
it was reintroduced into England by Lady Holland in 1804. In France, Spain and Germany the
Dahlia also received great attention, and to this day is still prized as one of their finest summer
and autumn blooming plants. Although other species were found and introduced from Mexico,
yet it is remarkable that they should not hybridize and, except D. Coccinea, Cav., were not gener-
ally grown. Both D. Variabilis and D. Coccinea broke into numerous colors and became general
favorites with the botanists and gardeners, who raised many new varieties from selected seed.
A great impetus was given Dahlia culture in 1814, with the introduction of the first double variety.

To fully realize the wonderful progress made in Dahlias and to get even a faint impression
of the possibilities in this most remarkable of all flowers, it is well to remember that only one
hundred and two years ago we had nothing but the single type with larze yellow centers and one
variety with two rows of petals.

Could Humboldt, Cavenilles cr Dahl have dreamed of a development in one century as is
shown by the illustrations herein? And here is the principal charm in Dahlia growing. There is
always action, always something new. We cannot remain discouraged, for we know of the
future development by the past, and who can tell what the next break will bring forth or how
far the development will proceed along the present lines. If you fail to produce a marvel, some
other of the hundreds of thousands of growers are sure to, and in a comparatively short time
you can grow and enjoy its beauty just as well as if you had produced it.

Though the Dahlia was found so close to the United States, as is usually the case, it was
not introduced directly from Mexico, but was shortly afterward introduced from England in the
form of several improved varieties. In America, as in Europe, the Dahlia soon became a great
favorite and was universally grown.

There is one peculiarity that must not be overlooked; during thirty to forty years of
constant improvement the one aim was to produce perfectly double, regular, ball-shaped flowers;
the nearer a perfect ball they were the more highly they were prized. This type had by 1840
reached almost perfection, and was the only type considered worth growing. At this time, and
for many years afterward, the Dahlia was the favorite garden plant with amateurs, gardeners
and florists.

But as the demand seemed to be assured, the seedsman and florists continued to grow
mainly the single and show or ball-shaped varieties, and when they had reached what they thought
was perfection in those types, ceased to strive after new varieties and forms, but continued to
grow and offer the same varieties from year to year. This was followed by a decline in the
demand for roots, as some had become tired of the stiff form of the old varieties, and others
having a complete collection of what was offered, began to look to other flowers for something
new. Under these conditions, which were brought about by the florists themselves, the Dahlia
received less and less attention as the years went by. In fact, this neglect went so far that at
last 1t was almost impossible to secure good varieties true to name. To illustrate, I will give
a few instances out of the many that has been brought to my attention. In one instance three

8 THE DATTA.

MME. J. COISSARD,
The ideal type of Duplex Dahlias and the best variety to date

growers offered the same variety under three different names, while in another case one variety
was sent out under nineteen different names by the same concern. I, myself, a few years ago,
bought five large collections from as many different firms, and in some cases had several varie-
ties under the same name, and in others had the same variety under several different names,
while many varieties were entirely worthless. Of course we must be charitable enough to believe
it was carelessness only, yet such neglect is almost criminal when we consider its evil results.

Fortunately, however, during this time the Dahlia was undergoing a complete transforma-
tion in Europe, especially in England, where new types and forms were being produced to
conform to the prevalent demand for loose, graceful flowers. The term “loose” is not used to
denote semi-double or open center flowers, but to distinguish them from the solid compact form
of the old varieties.

The cactus was first in the form of Juarezzi, which was called a cactus Dahlia on account

DHE DAHIETA 9

NEW PINK SHOW DAHLIA, DOROTHY PEACOCK

of its resemblance to the red cactus of the plains. As this strain developed it was divided, the
broad, reflex petaled sorts were called Decorative and those with pointed petals called Cactus.
None of these first varieties would now be called a true cactus (see classification), but
other classes came quickly. The Century, a race of giant single, developed from the giant
Decorative types; the Duplex, a double or two-row Century; the Peony flowered, Collarette,
and Anemone.
As soon as some of these finer varieties were introduced, interest was at once revived, and

as a result we now have specialists who equal, at least, the foreign growers in the production
of superior varieties. But owing to the decadence of the Dahlia trade, through multiplicity
of names and inferiority of varieties, it soon became evident to these specialists that they must
work together, shoulder to shoulder, if they wished to thoroughly popularize the Dahlia. At
the suggestion of several amateur admirers of the Dahlia, one of these specialists undertook the

10 THE: DAHLIA.

DAHLIAMUM (CHRYSANTHEMUM-SHAPED DAHLIA). ANOTHER NEW BREAK IN
THE DAHLIA

formation of a national society, and the ‘“‘American Dahlia Society,” which is fully described in

a succeeding chapter, was the gratifying result.

Phat the proper course was taken is conclusively proven from the fact that the demand has
increased fully twenty-five per cent. each year, and that the demand was mainly for new and
distinct varieties, while the seedsman and florists at last awakened to the necessity of offering
only the best varieties true to name. Dahlias now form the chief cut-flower stock of the florist

durine their season in September and October, when hundreds of thousands are used daily. for
all floral purposes, many times at a far higher price than for roses.

There is really no other flower that will give so much pleasure for so little care and expense.
It combines more good qualities than any other flower. It can be grown in the open ground,
where it can be had in perfection by everyone from June until frost. In form as in size there is
a greater diversity than can be imagined by those unacquainted with its many and newer types.

REE DATIELA |

UNIQUE DAHLIA FORM

The plant is a strong, robust grower, and such a gross feeder that it will grow in any kind of soil
if given proper nutriment. To illustrate how readily they will grow and bloom, where large
clumps are used, I will give an experience we had a few years ago.

After planting our Dahlias and while cleaning up the cellar | came across some very large
clumps that had been set aside. Finding that they were mixed roots, and having planted all we
wished, I ordered them to be thrown on the waste pile, which was to be hauled away to help
fill up a large washout. I had intended to have this washout filled up at once, but we were
all busy and it went on until July, when, happening along one day, I saw several beautiful
blooms of the Dahlia, “Mrs. Dexter.” To say I was surprised is putting it mildly. Several loads
of all kinds of rubbish had beeen dumped right down on the hard, yellow subsoil bottom, and
erowing here without any attention the plants were strong and vigorous, while the flowers were
as fine as I ever saw. It had been a wet season, and as the shoots from the large clumps were

so strong, they came through nearly two feet of trash, growing luxuriantly.

12 THE DAHIETA:

While in the Dahlia can be found not only every color except blue, and every intermediate
shade and tint, from the softest to the richest, but the most beautiful combinations of colors and
marvelous blendings of shades and tints, yet it is this ease of culture, combined with its varied
habits and adaptability to conditions, that makes the plant most valuable and popular. The
varieties, both double and single, grow from twelve inches to fifteen feet high. Between
these two extremes are the dwarf, the semi-dwarf and the standard or tall varieties. The
gardener can thus select varieties of any height or habit desired for any special purpose, such
as bedding, massing or banking, for boarders of any height, or for specimen plants for the lawn.
As a cut flower, whether for bouquets, decorations, or exhibition purposes, the Dahlia 1s unsur-
passed, owing to the great diversity of form and the brilliant lustre of the colors. In size they
vary, from the smallest of the Pompon, growing but one-half inch across, to the largest of the
Show and Cactus varieties. Specimen blooms of the largest of these latter varieties have been
grown seven to nine inches in diameter on stems three feet long. Such is the history and a few
of the main characteristics of a plant that has been grown and improved for little more than a
century, and is to-day, wherever the finer varieties are known, the most popular summer and
autumn blooming plant in cultivation.

Possibly no other plant shows the skill of the florist to such a marked degree, and taking
the wonderful improvements of the last few years as a criterion, we may well ask how far the
specialist can carry his skill, Unlike many other plants, its vigor seems to keep apace with its
other improvements, and, as we consider these things, we must admit that the possibilities of the
Dahlia in the future are almost limitless. If you admire beautiful flowers and want them in
profusion from June until frost, plant Dahlias and you will be delighted. No matter how many
other plants may fail to thrive, or whether the season is wet or dry, you can grow them success-
fully if you but heed their simple requirements.

Bedding.—Gardeners are now beginning to realize the great possibilities of the Dahlia as a
bedding plant. For this purpose they must be of strong, sturdy, branching growth, and profuse
bloomers, while the flowers must be of good substance, rich and brilliant colors, and be able to
withstand the hot summer sun without fading. The height of the plant will depend on the kind
of bedding; tall and semi-dwarf varieties for large beds, and dwarf sorts for small beds or for
low bedding purposes. Some very attractive beds have been grown by planting tall varieties
in the center, around which were planted rows of proportionately dwarfer varieties. These rows
may be of dwarfer varieties of the same color, or may be of different colors as desired, there
being no limit to the possible arrangements or combinations, owing to the numerous good
varieties at command.

Specimen Plants—This is one of the most pleasing and valuable forms in which the Dahlia
is grown, and, perhaps, the most popular. Any of the free blooming varieties will produce fine
specimen plants, if large roots are planted, but one shoot allowed to grow, and that pinched off
and forced to branch at the surface of the ground; though on small grounds the dwarf or
bedding varieties are generally grown. By selecting different varieties they may be grown to
all sizes, and well-grown specimens of some of the newer varieties is an entrancingly lovely
sight and one long to be remembered.

Borders and Hedges—Along open and exposed walks and driveways Dahlias are some-
times planted with excellent results. They may all be of one color, or of different colored
varieties of same height and habit, according to the taste of the grower. Another useful purpose
is to grow them in hedge form around the garden, or anywhere a hedge is desired, and it is
impossible to imagine anything lovelier. Just think of a garden enclosed on every side by a
hedge four feet high, two and a half feet wide and completely enveloped with beautiful flowers
of the loveliest shades, from the softest to the richest! Nor is this picture overdrawn. It is
impossible to convey with the pen the great beauty of the scene just described, and it is the
wish of the writer that every reader of this little work could have beheld this scene, just as the
writer did one beautiful September morning about three years ago.

THE DAHLIA 13

CHARTER al

CLASSIFICATION.

T IS doubtful if two persons would classify Dahlias exactly alike. Too many classes are
confusing. It is better to have fewer classes even if those classes are sub-divided into
sections or groups. As there is safety in numbers, the writer will give the classification as

adopted by the American Dahlia Society.

rt. Cactus Dahlias.

A, True, Fluted Type: Flowers fully double; floral rays (‘petals’) long, narrow, incurved
or twisted, with sharp, divided or fluted points and with revolute (“rolled back”) margins,
forming, in the outer florets, a more or less perfect tube for more than half the length of the ray

Typical examples: Snowdon, T. G. Baker, Mrs. Douglas Fleming, J. H. Jackson, H. H.
Thomas and Rey. T. W. Jamieson.

B. Hybrid Cactus or Seni-Cactus Type: Flowers fully double; floral rays (‘‘petals’’)
short as compared with previous type, broad, flat, recurved or twisted, not sharply pointed except
when tips are divided (“staghorn”), margins only slightly revolute (‘‘rolled back’), and tubes
of outer florets, if any, less than half the length of the ray.

Typical examples: Master Carl, Perle de Lyon, Flora, Mrs. J. P. Mace, Kalif and Rheine-
konig.

2. Decorative Dahlias.

Double flowers, full to center in early season, flat rather than ball-shaped, with broad, flat,
somewhat loosely arranged floral rays (“petals”) with broad points or rounded tips which are
straight or decurved (turned down or back), not incurved, and with margins revolute (rolled
back) if rolled at all.

Includes forms like those of Souvenir de Gustave Douzon, Jeanne Charmet, LeGrand
Manitou,-Delice, Lyndhurst and Bertha Von Suttner; but does not include Le Colosse, Mrs.
Roosevelt, Dreer’s White, Grand Duke Alexis or similar forms, which fall into section B of the
ball-shaped double Dahlias.

14 THE DAHLIA.

NEW DECORATIVE DAHLIA, MELODY

THE DAHLIA. 15

NEW HYBRID DECORATIVE DAHLIA, MRS. C. H. BRECK

3. Ball-Shaped Double Dahlias.

A. Show Type: Double flowers, globular or ball-shaped rather than broad or flat, full to
center, showing regular spiral arrangement of florets; floral rays more or less quilled or with
markedly involute (rolled in) margins and rounded tips.

(The class called Fancy Dahlias is not recognized separately in this classification, but is
included in this Sub-section A.)

Typical examples of Show Dahlias: Arabella, Dorothy Peacock, Gold Medal, John Walker,
Colonist and A. D. Livoni.

B. Hybrid Show, Giant Show or Colossal Type: Flowers fully double, broadly hemi-
spherical to flatly globular in form, Icosely built so spiral arrangement of florets is not immedi-
ately evident; floral rays (“petals”) broad, heavy, cupped or quilled, with rounded tips and
involute (rolled in or forward) margins.

Typical examples: Grand Duke Alexis, Cuban Giant, Mrs. Roosevelt, Le Colosse, W. \W.
Rawson and Golden West.

10

MRS. J. P. MACE

bud, with petals in more than one ri

noticeably twisted or curled. (Many

Typical examples: Big Chief,
and Mme. J. Coissard.

6. Single Dahlias

Open centered flowers, small
to very large, with eight to twelve
floral rays (“petals”) more or less
in one circle, margins often de-
curved (turned down or back)
There are no distinctions as to
colors. The type embraces the large
Twentieth Century as well as the
smaller English varieties.

Typical examples: White Cen-
tury, Golden Century, Scarlet Cen-
tury, Newport Marvel (of the large-
flowered forms) with Polly Eccles,
Leslie Seale, Danish Cross and Ami
sarillet (of the lesser flowered
forms).

The Star singles and Cactus
singles are omitted from the present
classification scheme as not being
sufficiently numerous or well de-

fined yet.

THE DAHLIA

C. Pompon Type: Shape and
color may be same as of A or B, but
must be under two inches in diam-

. Cler:

Typical examples: Fairy
Queen, Belle of Springfield, Darkest
of All, Nerissa, Little Herman and
Snowclad.

{. Paeony-Flowered or “Art”
Dahlias.

Semi-double flowers with open
center, the inner floral rays (“pet-
als’’) being usually curled or twisted.
the other or outer petals being either
flat or more or less irregular.

Typical examples: Queen Wil-
helmina, Geisha, Hampton Court,
Mrs. W. Kerr, P. W. Janssen, and
Glory of Baarn.

5. Duplex Dahlias.

Semi- double flowers, with
center always exposed on opening of
yw, more than 12, long and flat, or broad and rounded, not
so-called Pzony-flowered Dahlias belong here.)

Souv de Franz Liszt, Merry Widow, Sensation, Prairie Fire

MARJORIE CASTLETON

THE DAHLIA, 17

7. Co larette Dahlias.

Open centered blossoms with
not more than nine floral rays
(“petals”), with one or more
smaller rays, usually of a different
color, from heart of each ray floret,
making a collar about the disk.

Typical examples: Maurice
Rivoire, Souvenir de Chabanne,
Diadem, Orphee, Madame Poirier
and Albert Maumene.

8. Anemone-fowered Dahlias.

Flowers with one row of large
floral rays (“petals”) like single
Dahlias, but with each disk flower
producing small, tubular petals.

Includes such forms as those
of Graziella, Mme. Chas. Molin,
Messioner and Mme. Pierre Dupont.

GAL CURTIS

9. Other Sections.

Mimature or Pompom Cactus: Small flowered, stellate fine petaled Cactus Dahlias repre-
sented by Tom-tit, Mary, Nora, Minima. Mignon or Tom Thumb: Dwarf, bushy, single flow-
ered Dahlias for edging.

Typical examples: Jules Closson. Bedding Dahlia: A taller, more upright type than the
Tom Thumb. Typical examples:
Barlow’s Bedder and Midget Im-
proved. Cockade of Zonal Dahlias:
Single or collarette Dahlias, with
three distinct bands of color about
center. Type hardly known in
America, but includes such forms as
those of Cockade Espagnole.

In the above classification too
little attention was given to the
Single Dahlia. The various classes
and types range in size from 2 inches
to 10 inches in diameter, and a still
greater variation in form, type, etc.

The Century is the most valu-
able section and the new intermedi-
ate varieties must be classified as
self-colored, zonale, penciled, mar-
gined, etc.

Double Dahlias are classified
according to form. Single Dahlias
must be classified by size and color

markings. H. SHOESMITH

Is ELE:

NEW WHITE SHOW DAHLIA,

ETHEL MAULE

DATETA:

In connection with the above
well to
to the particular

classification, it
call

wording.

may be
attention

The classes are de-

scribed and defined by typical ex-

amples; but it is not safe to go

indiscriminately by names, as

many varieties vary at times

Therefore it is well in entering

at exhibitions to remember that

name alone will not carry a vari-
ety through, but the flower must
conform to the standard of that
class, and any flower that does

conform to that class should be

eligible.

Then there are the many

other types that will undoubtedly

be taken care of in the future.

For imstance, there has been a

general idea that all open cen-
tered flowers are Pzony-flower-
mistake to

ing. It would be a

make a separate class for each of

these types, as much as it was a mistake to an open-center type Peony flowered, as the general

conception of the Pony is a fully double flower, and the near future will show the ideal,

perfectly full or double Pzeony Dahlia.

This type is already

in existence with a row long,

broad rays or petals and the shorter more irregular center petals.

It would seem, therefore, that in the future the present classes would be subdivided into

sections in order to encourage the development of distinctively new, novel or unique types, as

well as the development of the existing classes.

SWEET-SCENTED DAHLIAS.

field that offers

Twentieth Century and Fringed Twen-

This is a great oppor
tunity.
tieth Century are notable examples, and there
are many other varieties that are more or less

Die

look for distinctive flowers of large size,

fragrant. great trouble is that breeders

fine
form, etc., while as a matter of fact the only
cented Dahlias the writer has seen were

ball

clove

nondescript blooms in the different and
single classes.

The

wonderfully well since its reorganization, and

\merican Dahlia Society has done

the near future will undoubtedly see a yearly

price for the most distinctive new variety of

the year as well as the best, as within these
two lines depend the interest and future popu-
larity of the Dahlia

DAHLIA, VIRGINIA MAULE

DEE DAE TA: 19

CHAPTER III

PROPAGATION,

HERE are four methods by which Dahlias are propagated—by cuttings, division of roots,
and by grafting to perpetuate existing kinds, and by seeds to produce new varieties.

Division of Roots—Vhis is the easiest and most satisfactory to amateurs, and is so

simple as to scarcely need description. As the eyes are not on the individual tubers, but on the

crown to which the tubers are attached, care must be taken that each division has at least one eye.

It is, therefore, best to start the eyes by placing the roots in a warm, moist place a short time

before dividing. The roots are sometimes placed in a hot-bed, and the shoots grown to consid-

erable size, then divided and set out as plants; but as this plan has many drawbacks, I would not
advise it.

By Cuttings—This method is used mainly by commercial growers, and though the amateur
may easily propagate plants successfully, the attention a few cuttings would require would-be
so great that it would be cheaper to buy the plants. However, as it may be of interest to
some, I will describe how Dahlias are propagated by this method on commercial places. The
roots are planted closely in benches in the greenhouse early in January, and cuttings are made
from the young shoots as fast as they form the third or fourth set of leaves. These cuttings
are carefully trimmed and placed in pure sand in the propagating bench, using a dibble, and
putting the cuttings in rows two or three inches apart and about a half inch between the
cuttings. The propagating bench is made by running a flue, hot water or steam pipes beneath
an ordinary bench, and boarding up the sides to confine the heat. Although there may be a
difference of opinion among propagators, yet a bottom or sand heat of 65 degrees, with the
temperature of the house from 5 to 10 degrees less, will give the best practical results. With this
temperature the cuttings will root in about two weeks and will be far stronger than if rooted
in less time with greater heat. As soon as the cuttings are rooted they are potted off into small
pots and grown in a cool greenhouse until danger of frost is over, when they are planted out
in the open ground.

By Grafting—This is a very interesting, though not profitable, mode of propagation. The
top of the tuber is cut slantingly upward, and the cutting slantingly downward, placed together
and tied with any soft, handy material. They are then planted in a pot deep enough to cover
the lower part of the graft with earth, and they will soon adhere if placed under a hand glass
or ina frame. But as grafting has no advantages over the ordinary mode of propagation by
cuttings, it is seldom practiced.

By Seeds—TYhough many grow Dahlias from seed instead of planting roots, yet seeds are
generally planted to produce new varieties only. This being the case, the matter will be fully
treated in another chapter under the head of new varieties.

Excessive Propagation—I know of no other name for it, and must say that whoever is
guilty of it is doing a great deal of harm to Dahlia culture. By excessive propagation is meant
the forcing under glass not only of the roots but plants grown from the roots, often two or
three times removed. In this way many good varieties are so run down that they come abso-
lutely single, and it takes a year or two for them to recover their old-time vigor. Especially
do florists make a mistake in forcing their new introductions in this way, as they always lose
in the end.

A number of years ago a firm in England introduced a very fine Dahlia, and to meet the
enormous demand the stock was forced under great heat; as a result the cuttings were so weak
that they made poor, delicate plants, and the few flowers produced had large open centers, many
being almost perfectly single. Consequently every one was disappointed and considerable money

20 THEVDAHETA:

was refunded. Now mark the sequel. The next year the flowers came perfectly double again,
but it was too late for the introducers; they had paid the penalty of their excessive greed.

There are many reasons why these facts should be known by all who grow Dahlias, though
the main reason is that every variety will be grown at least two years, and not discarded because
they fail to come perfectly full the first year. Had this fact been universally known, it would
have saved considerable loss and disappointment, as, undoubtedly, many sorts discarded in the
past were really fine varieties. Therefore, if you purchase a new highly praised variety and it
should not answer quite to the description, do not condemn it too soon, but grow it at least
two more years. During this time it will, if properly cultivated, show its true characteristics;
and if it still proves inferior, write to the source from which it was secured, making your
complaints.

If this practice of waiting a year or two was always followed, many complaints would
never be written at all, as varieties are very apt to vary under different conditions and according
to the seasons. A variety may be pure white this year, yet come tinted pink next, and vice versa.
As an example I will mention the Decorative-Cactus Dahlia “Nymphea.” This variety, under
favorable conditions, is of a beautiful, clear, light shrimp pink color, and has a delicate refined
Water Lily fragrance, but is devoid of fragrance and almost pure white during an excessively
wet, cold and cloudy season, or very late in the autumn. Of course if an entirely distinct variety
is received it is something else, and a complaint together with a flower should be sent at once.

Division of roots is not only the easiest and best, but far the cheapest of the three methods
of propagation, and the cue followed, as far as possible by all growers. However, with new or
rare varieties, where it is not so much cost as quantity, division is entirely inadequate to the
secasion, as it would take several years to secure even a limited stock. Accordingly, new and
rare varieties are propagated from cuttings and offered as plants, or are grown another year
and offered as field, or pot roots, at a price within the reach of all. Tt will thus be seen that a
thorough knowledge of the art of propagation is very useful, but that evil will always result
from its being carried too far.

In buying Dahlias it is always wise to give strong field roots the preference, as they give the
best results the first year; but, as the roots are easily kept from year to year, the main object is
to get the best varieties, regardless of the form in which they are offered.

It is well to state here that in some instances claims are made that the best results can be
obtained from plants, and, in other cases, that huge roots only will give the best results. This is
largely a matter of opinion and conditions, but IT cannot give too strong a warning against
planting the same old roots from year to year. I would rather have a very small young root
or bulb than a very large old root. I have seen Dahlias grown and handled carelessly for several
years; each year the new roots were broken and the old root planted until when they reached us
some tubers weighed several pounds each; a series of crowns with eyes were on each of these
monster bulbs (not clumps of roots). We cut off two-thirds of the bulb and split the top section
remaining to eyes, leaving in this way only enough to start the plant off, which immediately
made new tubers, and we harvested a splendid crop of young stock.

These huge, several-year-old roots are generally hollow in the center if not actually decay-
ing. ‘They send very strong shoots, but as they furnish so much to the plant quickly, it does not
throw out such strong, vigorous roots of its own, and is particularly susceptible to heat, drought
or any other unfavorable condition.

For the strongest and most sturdy plant you want the shoot to send out its own feeding
roots, rather than to be nourished by the huge mother root. Therefore, in planting your Dahlias
cut away the two or more year-old roots, using only the new ones, and see how much better they
will grow.

This is of course on the basis that you have handled your roots carefully. If all the young
roots have broken necks, you will have to plant the old one, but cut part of it away, so as to get a
good strong plant on its own feeding roots.

THE DAHLIA.

s

CACTUS DAHLIA RADIUM

2]

22 THE DAHLIA.

GHAP TER IY

POSITION, SOIL AND MANURE.

NE of the most important points in Dahlia culture is to select a suitable location, for unless
they are planted in an open situation, where they can get plenty of sun and air, the best
results cannot be obtained. True, they will grow and give some blooms in almost any

position, even where shaded by trees and buildings; but, as no plant is perfectly satisfactory
except at its best, it is always advisable to give such position and conditions as will conduce to its
highest state of development.

The best position for Dahlias is in the garden, where, with but little attention, they will
grow luxuriantly and bloom profusely during the entire summer and autumn, The house can
thus be filled with lovely flowers at a time when, owing to the scarcity of other flowers, they are
most appreciated. Beside the garden, Dahlias may be planted along fences, singly or in groups on
the lawn, and in beds of any size or form desired, with most pleasing results. A large group or
bank of the profuse blooming varieties, planted in a corner or on one side of the grounds in such
manner that each succeeding row is higher than the one before it, is most beautiful and effective.

Another favorite position is along an exposed walk or drive, where they may be planted
on either side and make a very attractive border. It must be remembered that the Dahlia requires
plenty of sunlight, air and water, and it will not grow vigorously or bloom profusely where these
elements cannot be obtained.

If planted in the shade of buildings, they will make a tall but soft growth of plant and
will bloom but sparingly ; while in the shade of trees their position is even worse, as they are not
only robbed of sunshine by the branches above, but of moisture by the roots beneath. There-
fore, plant your Dahlias where nothing will obstruct the sunlight and the free circulation of
air above, or rob them of moisture from heneath, and you have taken the most important steps
toward their successful cultivation.

The soil is not so important,-except in its ability to hold moisture during severe drouths.
Any rich soil that will grow corn will also grow Dahlias to perfection, if all other conditions
are favorable. They will grow equally well in clear sand, clay or gravel, if the proper kinds and
quantities of plant food is added and thoroughly worked in. While Dahlias will adapt themselves
to any soil, it may be well to state, however, that a good sandy loam is especially adapted to their
culture, owing to its drouth resisting qualities. Yet this is not of great importance, as everything
depends on the treatment given and the fertility, rather than the quality, of the soil.

Fertility goes hand in hand with position and is of great importance; for no matter where
you plant your Dahlias or how good your treatment, they will not grow luxuriantly or bloom
freely unless there is abundance of available plant food in the soil. The plants being strong,
robust growers, are not particular as to what particular form or kind of fertilizer is given,
provided it contains the necessary elements required for their development. Any kind of well
rotted manure that is most convenient will give equally good results, if sufficient quantity is well
worked into the soil.

It is always best to broadcast the manure and plow or spade it into the soil, while it is
absolutely necessary if it is not well decomposed. On heavy, clay or gravelly soils, loose, coarse
manure may be used (broadcasted and plowed or spaded in of course) with excellent results, as
it lightens the soil and allows a freer root growth, but on light or sandy soils the manure should
always be fine and well rotted.

Commercial fertilizers are also largely used, and are most valuable when used in connection

hE Ss DAEIETA:

bo
w

with manure. Any good fertilizer, rich in ammonia and phosphoric acid with a liberal amount
of potash, will answer at the time of planting, but as a top dressing later, I have found nothing
that would equal pure bone meal and nitrate of soda in proportion—six parts bone and one part
soda.

Of equal or greater importance is the handling of very rich soils, for if the soil is too rich,
there will be too heavy a plant growth and consequent falling off in the quantity and quality of
blooms. I cannot advise the amateur too strongly to withhold using any fertilizer whatever in
planting if his soil is already very rich. Especially is this the case on heavy soil until the plants
commence to bloom. This, however, is for the ordinary way of growing Dahlias.

If you disbud your plants as described in another chapter, it will make no difference how
rich you make your soil. In fact it takes very rich soil to produce those 10- to 12-inch exhibition
blooms.

A few years ago a friend wrote me that he wanted Dahlia blooms; for four years he had
bushes only. In reply to my letter he sent a diagram of his place, located on the south side of a
large grove. I suggested he dig a trench along his line and give his Dahlia bed a cheesecloth
cover. He now takes first prizes. There is no place you cannot grow Dahlias if you will overcome
the local obstacle.

If you want Dahlias under a maple tree you might have to build a concrete floor and sides
for the bed, but with ample drainage you can grow fine Dahlias, particularly those tender varie-
ties, like Cockatoo, that is liable to burn in the sun.

BALL DAHLIA, DOROTHY PEACOCK

24 THE DAHLIA.

CHAPTER V

GARDEN CULTIVATION,

HE garden is the place preéminently adapted to Dahlia culture. It is here that they may

ale be grown, in all their loveliness, with so little care and expense that no lover of flowers

can afford to be without them. They grow so luxuriantly and bloom so profusely that

even a few plants, properly cared for, will furnish a fresh bouquet almost daily from June
until frost, while a collection of the finer varieties are ever a source of great pleasure.

Dahlias are offered in five forms: Immense clumps, strong field roots, pot roots, green
plants and seeds (see next page for comparative sizes). The clumps give the best results the
first year, but are entirely too large and unwieldy for anything but a local trade. The strong
field roots are the most valuable, as they can be easily and safely handled, and always give satis-
factory results. Pot roots are largely used in the mailing trade, and, while they will not give as
good results the first year, are valuable for shipping long distances where larger roots could not
be profitably used, owing to heavy transportation charges.

Green plants are mainly used to make up any deficiency in the field crops, owing to unfay-
orable seasons, or an unusual demand for certain varieties. Many firms, who offer field roots
only, send out strong green plants, rather than disappoint their customers by returning their
money, after the supply of roots is exhausted. This I consider a very good plan, as the plants
will bloom equally as well if they receive careful attention, and will make good roots for the
following year.

There is a diversity of opinion as to the proper time to plant Dahlias, but I have always
found it best to plant early, and would advise planting large, strong roots about two weeks’ before
danger of frost is over. This would be, in the vicinity of Philadelphia, about April 15th, and as
it takes from two to three weeks for them to get up through the ground, there will be no
danger, while your plants will bloom that much earlier. It is best, however, not to plant small
roots or green plants until danger of frost is over—in the vicinity of Philadelphia about the
Ist of May to the 10th of May, according to the season. Therefore, a good rule to follow every-
where would be to plant small roots and green plants as soon as danger of frost is over and
large roots about two weeks earlier.

However, if you wish special flowers, say, for exhibition in September, would advise planting
about June Ist to 10th, and as late as July for exhibition blooms in October.

The first requisite of successful garden cultivation is to thoroughly stir the soil to consid-
erable depth, and enrich it, if it is not already so, by broadcasting and plowing or spading in a
good coat of well rotted manure. Too much stress cannot be placed upon the thorough prepa-
ration of the soil, as it not only allows the roots to go down deep after the moisture more readily
during dry weather, but affords good drainage during excessive rains. Having prepared the soil
as above, mark out rows four feet apart and six to eight inches deep, and plant the roots from
eighteen inches to three feet apart in the row, according as you wish a solid row or specimen
plants. If perfectly symmetrical specimen plants are wanted, they should be planted at least four
feet apart each way, which allows plenty of room for the circulation of air between the plants
and a larger surface from which they can draw nourishment and moisture.

SINGLE STEM BRANCHING SYSTEM.
Before covering the roots, spread a small shovelful of well rotted manure in each space
between the roots, and a small handful of fertilizer to two spaces, taking care that the manure

Fig. 4.

THE DAHETA.

Stem of Piant under New Single
Stem Branching System.

COMPARATIVE SIZES,

Fig.13:

Strong Field Roots.

Fig 5. Pot Roots.

bo
wm

26 THE DAHLIA.

and fertilizer do not come in contact with the roots. This done, cover the rows with plow, hoe
or any other convenient method. As soon as the shoots appear, remove all but the strongest one
and pinch that one off, thus forcing it to branch at the surface of the ground. By this method
the entire strength of the root and the soil is concentrated on the one shoot, causing it to grow
vigorously; while the pinching or cutting back of the shoot not only causes it to branch at the
surface and thus brace it against all storms without staking, but also removes all of those first
imperfect, short-stemmed flowers that appear on some varieties. (See cut, page 25, showing
how the plants branch, also illustration of field of Dahlias, page 6, grown under this system
without staking. )

I am, I think, the first to use and advocate this method of cultivation, and, by its practice,
have grown many thousands of Dahlia blooms on stems from eighteen inches to two feet long;
selling them to florists, by the thousands, for four times the ruling price of carnations and higher
than that asked for roses.

Another method of growing on single branched stems is fully described under the chapter
of disbudding, and the result shown in the plant of John Wanamaker on page 35.

During its early stage of development the Dahlia grows very rapidly, and should be kept
thoroughly cultivated; that is, the rows should be kept scrupulously clean by frequent hoeings,
and the space between the rows frequently and deeply stirred. Among the many benefits thus
derived is to make the plant root deeply, but it must be remembered that while deep cultivation is
beneficial during its early stage of development, it is almost fatal to the production of flowers
if practiced after the plants come into bloom. Therefore, when your plants commence to bloom,
cease deep cultivation and stir the soil to the depth of one or two inches only, but stir it often,
and never allow the surface to become hard and baked, This will net only prevent excessive
evaporation of moisture and keep the under soil cool and moist, but will also prevent the destruc-
tion of immense quantities of feeding roots.

The nearer the directions for preparing the soil and planting the roots are followed, the
longer the plants will continue to grow and bloom freely, for the roots push out in every
direction in search of nourishment and moisture, thus forming a complete network of strong,
vigorous feeding roots. This immense system of roots not only more than supply the needs of
the plant, but enables it to withstand extreme droughts, ow'ng to the large amount of moisture
they hold in reserve.

As long as the roots supply more nourishment than is needed to support the plant, both
the plant and the flowers increase in size and beauty; but as the supply gradually becomes
exhausted, the plants cease growing and the flowers become much smaller. This condition is
what is generally called “bloomed out,” but what is really “starved out,” and can easily be
prevented if the proper attention is given to the plants. As soon as the flowers commence to
grow smaller, broadcast around each plant a small handful of pure bone meal and nitrate of
soda, in proportion six parts bone to one part soda, and carefully work it into the soil.

This will be carried down where the roots can reach it by the first rain, and will restore
full vigor to the plants and size to the flowers. In the absence of above mixture, any good
fertilizer rich in ammonia and phosphoric acid will give excellent results. This top dressing, and
a thorough stirring of the soil from time to time as already advised, will insure an abundance of
beautiful flowers until the plants are killed down by severe frosts.

As soon as the plants are killed by frost, lift the roots, and, after removing all the soil from
them possible, allow them to dry in the air for a few hours, when they should be stored in the
cellar or some other cool place secure from frost. If your cellar is very dry or is not frost proof,
put the roots in a barrel or box and cover completely with dry sand or some other suitable and
convenient material, such as saw dust or tan bark, to prevent freezing or loss of vitality by
drying and shriveling. Roots handled in this way will keep safely over winter, and will be in
excellent condition for planting the following spring.

Staking —It has always been thought necessary to tie Dahlias up to stakes to prevent them

DEES DAEIE TA: 27

SNOW-WHITE SHOW DAHLIA— STORM KING ( BLIZZARD )

From photograph taken of a specimen plant in full bloom. Grown under the single-stem branching system,
as described herein

from being blown down by heavy winds, but how much more beautiful is a field or collection
of Dahlias in full bloom without stakes. The system of staking is not only unsightly during the
early stage of their growth, but is attended with considerable labor and expense. Staking,
however, is unnecessary if the directions already given on page 26 are followed, as the plants
will branch out at the surface of the ground and the stems will become so heavy as to resist the
strongest winds. It may not be out of place to add that this is the best method for growing
Dahlias, as the plants are one-third dwarfer, compact and regular in form, and produce much
finer flowers on long stems well supplied with buds and foliage.

Watering.—Vhis is a debatable subject, and although a judicious application of water during
a severe dry spell is very beneficial, yet in nine cases out of every ten where water is applied a
thorough stirring of the surface soil would give better results; not that [ am opposed to watering
where it can be done thoroughly and conveniently, but it is much better and easier to save the
moisture already in the soil than it is to put moisture in the soil artificially after nature’s supply
has been wasted. The soil acts as capillary tubes, thus drawing the moisture to the surface,
where, if unchecked, it is rapidly evaporated. If the surface is stirred this waste is prevented,
as the dry loose soil completely seals those small tubes, and the moisture is held in reserve beneath
until it is required and removed by the plant. It is really astonishing how long Dahlias will with-
stand the drought if they are not planted too closely and the soil is properly stirred.

28 TEE SD AETIET AS

Many people believe Dahlias should be watered every evening, and as soon as they are up
commence watering them daily unless it rains. This practice is very injurious, as it causes a
rapid but soft growth; and, as the soil is seldom stirred, the roots become so enfeebled for want
of air that they are unable to supply the needs of the plant; as a consequence, but few buds are
formed, and they generally blast before developing into flowers.

In other cases, as the enthusiasm wears off, watering is stopped, probably, right at the begin-
ning of a severe drouth, and the weak, pampered plants are fortunate to survive, much less bloom.

If large, strong roots are planted and the soil is kept thoroughly stirred, there will be little
need of artificial watering until after the plants come out in full bloom. However, if it should
become hot and dry after your Dahlias come into bloom, it would, if convenient, be very bene-
ficial to give them a thorough watering once each week or ten days during the continuance of
the drouth. But care must be taken to stir the soil to the depth of one to two inches the next
day, carefully pulverizing it later, in order to seal those natural capillary tubes by which the
moisture is evaporated.

The best rule to follow is nox to allow your plants to suffer from want of moisture, nor
to water them except they need it, but to water them thoroughly when you do water them, and
not to allow excessive evaporation for want of frequent stirring o* the soil.

One of the chief sources of complaint from the amateur grower, namely, large plants and
few or no blooms, can be avoided very easily. Generally this is caused by the soil being too
rich, causing the plants to make large growths, and unless the season is very favorable fo.
Dahlias and the best attention given, there is a very scant supply of blooms. In many cases the
flowers open imperfectly, few flowers, under size and so forth. In our case, where the soil is very
rich, it is best to simply plow or spade up the soil and plant Dahlias without any fertilizer or
manure whatever. This will check the growth of the plants somewhat and cause them to bloom
earlier, and as long as the flowers are of good size, no other nourishment is needed. Of course,
after the flowers become smaller in size, it is well to give them a top dressing of some quick and
active fertilizer, especially bone meal. Nitrate of soda should be avoided on any soil where there
is a heavy growth of plant.

The object sought in growing Dahlias—fine, large flowers, and lots of them—is best obtained
by feeding the flowers after the plant has developed rather than by feeding the plant before the
flower appears.

All Dahlia blossoms should be cut before they have quite reached their best, unless for
exhibition, and singles, which are quite shortlived, should be taken before they are fully
unfolded, to insure satisfactory retention of petals. The pompon, show and fancy types, last
longest after cutting, although many of the decoratives are excellent in this regard and some of
the cactus and peony-flowered types.

The singles are not good for continuous use in bouquets as the petals drop soon after
cutting, if fully opened flowers are chosen.

The beauty and daintiness of these flowers render them admirable, however, for vase
decoration for a dinner or a reception; and their freedom of bloom makes the frequent refilling
of the vases in home decoration very easy. Collarette Dahlias seem to withstand wilting and hold
their petals much better than the singles, although apparently differing from them so slightly.

Unfortunately too many of our handsomest cactus and peony-flowered Dahlias are either
weak-stemmed, requiring wiring for vase or bouquet use, or are too soft in texture to “hold-up”
well after cutting. Breeders are now working, with success in sight in several cases, to over-
come these faults, so we may soon hope to hav many varieties as satisfactory in these respects
as they are in color and form.

Pests Fortunately the Dahlia has few serious pests to contend \
diseases and insects may at times cause annoyance.

No diseases are discussed in any of the published works on the
occasionaly rot in the field, though more frequently in storage, from

ugh numerous

ut the tubers
ck of fungi.

TEE DAE TAT 29

Recently there has been reported from various sections a peculiar dwarfing or stunting of plants
from some unknown cause, probably from obscure physiological disturbance or from weather
injury; and powdery mildew sometimes affects leaves and stems in late summer. ‘This last trouble
yields readily to spray treatment.

Insects and some other low forms of animal life are far more troublesome, but ordinarily not
serious menaces to Dahlia culture.

In moist seasons and in localities where slugs have become common they are frequently
very annoying, as they may eat the bud or the tender sprout below ground, or scrape the outer
surface of the lower stem until it is practically girdled and the plant dies. They also occasionally
climb the stem and feed on the younger leaves. As they are most active at night and crawl into
holes or crevices in the ground or hide under stones or lumps of earth during the day it is
necessary either to hunt them after sundown with a light or to adopt preventive measures. In
capturing them a stick with a darning needle in the end is an effective weapon, from which
they may be dropped into a can partly filled with kerosene. They may be driven from the ground
about the plant by using a dilute solution of ammonium carbonate (0.75 per cent.) to wet the
earth over a small area, and then captured, and it is probable that lime sulphur solution would
act in the same way. They are very fond of bran, so handfuls of this may be used as traps to
collect from, or a poisoned bran bait might prove effective where it could be used safely. Should
slugs ever become numerous enough to threaten the foliage, spraying with arsenate of lead
would be desirable. A few lettuce plants among the Dahlias make attractive food for the slugs
and may prevent injury to the plants. Lime or dry ashes or napthalene scattered in a small circle
about the plant will keep slugs away, but the first two lose much of their effectiveness when wet.

The tarnished plant bug becomes a serious pest during dry, hot summers, when the succu-
lence of the buds and blossoms tempts them from other food plants. When conditions have been
right for the increase of these small gray-brown bugs (light green in early stages) they may
cause the blighting or deformation of almost every bud by piercing the flower stalk or the base
of the bud itself, and may spot and ruin the petals of the buds that do open. Little can be done
to control these pests as they are sucking insects, so not subject to poisoning and too alert and
lively in movements to make spraying with contact insecticides practicable. The only thing to
do is to protect every choice plant or blossom with close-mesh netting and to await the disappear-
ance of the insect, which usually accompanies the cool September nights. The red spider and
black and green aphids are sometimes troublesome, but can easily be controlled by spraying the
former with cold water merely, the latter with a weak nicotine or strong soap solution.

Borers occasionally work in the stalks, but can usually be removed without harm to the
plant if the injury is noticed in time by splitting the stalk with a sharp knife and killing the
borer.

The black aster bug attacks the flowers, devouring them if allowed full sway. They attack
the white and very light varieties first. We eliminate them very readily by using a bucket with a
few inches of kerosene. Slip the bucket under the flower quickly and quietly and the beetles will
drop right in. Care must be taken to walk quietly, as they drop to the ground if disturbed in
any way. The striped and spotted cucumber beetles also attack the flowers, but not in such
numbers as to do great damage. As they slip down in the tubular end of the petal to escape,
just pull out petal and beetle together.

Cut worms are very annoying sometimes, especially in low ground, or during a cold, wet
spring. Many remedies are suggested, but a careful daily watch will soon eliminate them.
When the Dahlia is cut off, take a stick and work around the plant and you will find the worm;
kill it and be happy in the knowledge that shoots will come up from the lower eyes. Even
where plants are set the eyes at the bottom will come up after the plant has been cut off.

Failures are bound to occur to the beginner, and oftentimes to initiated. Therefore do
not become discouraged if you do not at first grow flowers as large and fine as you see them
exhibited; but keep plugging away, with the knowledge that eventually you will grow them as

30 THE DAHLIA.

large and fine as it is possible for them to grow. It is here that the Dahlia is the flower of the
people. If you want giant flowers work six (6) inches of manure in the soil, thoroughly
incorporating it into the soil to a depth of two (2) feet. Give thorough cultivation as described
before and disbud as described in the following chapter.

I wish to particularly call attention to two comparative inconsistencies. | Remember,
everything depends on conditions of weather, soil, cultivation, etc. If you just want Dahhias, and
propose just to take ordinary care of them, and do no disbudding, you do not want your soil
too rich. Under these conditions fairly light soil is best. But if you will always keep the surface
loose, water when needed, disbud faithfully, you cannot get your soil too rich, nor does it
much matter how light or how heavy your soil may be.

Hardened wood is a great source of failure and discouragement. This is generally found
on rich soil, where the plants have been allowed to grow rampantly, after having been planted
early. I receive hundreds of letters each year on this subject. Do you advise pruning? is the
question usually asked. Yes! As stated elsewhere, Dahlias bloom on the soft or new growth
only, therefore to secure good and abundant bloom you must keep your plants growing. Cut
the large plants back heavily—two-thirds at least—so as to force a strong, vigorous new
growth, and then disbud. (See next
chapter. )

The same remedy applies to
dwarf, bushy growth equally; keep
them growing.

Some complain that Dahlias
will only bloom every other year.
That is, plants that do exceptionally
well this year will not bloom well
next year.

We do not have this trouble,
and if plants are grown and dis-
budded, given a top dressing when
showing signs of exhaustion, the
roots will not become exhausted and
will give equally good results year
after year.

Bottom leaves. I am often
asked, shall I remove the bottom
leaves? This depends on conditions.
\e prefer the lower or bottom
leaves on, as they protect the roots
from the hot sun. Keep your plants
growing vigorously and the bottom
leaves will remain green and lux-
uriant. If, however, owing to dry
weather or some other mishap, the
lower leaves become dry or damaged
that they affect the appearance of the
plant, remove them; but remember,

if you can keep those bottom leaves

PHOTOGRAPHIOE PEANT OR IDAEIETA

: : é Q and : i OW are also
JOHN WANAMAKER SHOWING Suan eines saline youl ate “aS

NATURAL GROWTH assured of healthy roots.

THE DAHLIA. 31

GCRAPTER VI

DISBUDDING

HIS is the most important factor in raising Dahlias, and | have had photographs taken

to illustrate the subject so as to make the subject as plain as possible. 1] have described the

single stem branching system by the pinching out process; and have advised against hav-
ing the soil too rich, and apply top dressings after the plants commence to bloom. The main
object is to keep the plants from getting too large, calling attention to the fact that is more a
case of moisture than fertility. I will now state by thorough disbudding you can hardly get
the soil too rich. Dahlias bloom on the young shoots. When the plants get very large the
moisture is evaporated through the leaves so rapidly on hot dry days that the wood hardens,
the buds blast or open one sided or imperfect flowers.

On page 30 is a young plant showing natural growth of the Dahlia “John Wanamaker.”
The second photo on page 31 shows
the same plant with the terminal bud,
but the first two pairs of lateral
shoots or branches removed. Just
examine these two photos carefully
and you will see what a simple oper-
ation. Simply take the main stalk
at the base of the leaves with the
thumb and first finger of one hand,
the shoots in the thumb and finger
of the other hand and snap or break
them out one at a time. This is all
that is necessary at that time. You
can see the lower branches, but they
are not ready yet. When these
branches develop buds, repeat the
operation, treating each branch as
you did the main stem. By this
time you will be more interested as
the terminal bud of the main stem
will by this time be developing into
just the kind of flower you have al-
ways wished for.

The third cut on page 32 shows
you the plant when four of the
branches after having been disbud-
ded in the same way have devel-
oped their terminal buds into superb
exhibition quality blooms, and a
careful inspection will show several
other branches, several of which
have also been disbudded in the
same way. No. 4, page 33, shows
you the flower—the ideal flower that SAME PLANT OF JOH N WANAMAKER WITH TWO
PAIRS OF SHOOTS REMOVED, WHICH IS THE

PROPER WAY TO HANDLE DAHLIAS

Do not Pinch Out or Cut Back Plant until you can get a nice
stemmed beauty for your trouble (Pleasure)

can be grown by any one, by follow-
ing these simple instructions, the en-
tire season.

tr
bo

THE DAEIETA.

This disbudding will be the
more interesting, as it carries with it
the knowledge that the finest flowers
are assured. \Ve know how many
dislike to remove the buds and
young shoots, but you must remem-
ber you cannot get those large flow-
ers otherwise. Again this insures a
continuous supply until frost. If
you think this too much trouble.
consider that all carnations, chrys-
anthemums, etc., are disbudded with
greater attendance of time and labor,

Yes you can get. fine, large
flowers without disbudding under
favorable circumstances and condi-
tions, but they will grow smaller, as
the quantity increases until they are
very small, or under hot dry weather
you will get finally a few one-sided
flowers and immense bushes. This
disbudding is so simple if started at
the beginning and the results so
greatly beyond the proportion of
time involved that it will become
universal.

How about a succession of
flowers? is the question asked in-
variably by the novice. Look at the
illustration of a blooming branch of
Dorothy Peacock, on page 34. This

shows the natural growth, and con-

THIS IS THE JOHN WANAMAKER PLANT AFTER sider how many buds and blooms

THE FIRST DISBUDDED FLOWER HAD BEEN x
CUT AND THE NEXT TWO PAIRS OF SHOOTS

would soon be on a plant if allowed

OR BRANCHES HAD COME INTO FLOWER to grow and bloom naturally. If
AND THE OTHER BRANCHES DIS- the first two pairs of shoots had
BUDDED. THE PHOTOS SPEAK been removed as instructed and

FOR THEMSELVES shown in illustrations on pages 30

and 31, the third pair at the bottom
would have developed, instead of remaining practically dormant. You would have the large long
stem bloom with two more coming on. This is no theory, but a thoroughly practical method car-
ried out successfully for years in growing on a large scale the finest commercial flowers, not to
speak of the hundreds of exhibition collections:

Of course with a shorter jointed grower, there are more eyes or young shoots to remove.
You have no idea how disbudding will help you to success. Imagine growing chrysanthemums
or carnations without disbudding!

Any one can grow Dahlias of exhibition quality if they will digest these remarks, study
plant requirements and then act accordingly. Disbudding does away with those immense plants
that evaporate the moisture from the soil so rapidly that during hot dry weather the buds blast
in spite of all the water you give them.

THE DAHLIA. 33

PHOTOGRAPH OF A BLOOM OF JOHN WANAMAKER DAHLIA

This flower was 7% inches in diameter and was the original or first flower on the main shoot disbudded and
grown as described in these chapters. Note: It was the flowers grown two months later on
disbudded branches that were awarded First Prize as best pink dahlia, any class,
by the American Dahlia Society, of the New York Exhibition

34 THE DAHLIA.

Plants should be encouraged to make short stocky growth until they come into bud. Then
disbud leaving the terminal bud and eyes at the base of the shoot for a further supply of blooms.

There are many conflictions in Dahlia growing and to the amateur or exhibitor, where dis-
budding is followed you can trench your soil to two or three feet in depth and you cannot get
the soil too rich; yet, commercially, moderation is essential.

When the flowers commence to grow smaller is the logical and proper time to fertilize.
Apply any good fertilizer broad-cast or any kind of manure available; but it is better to give
two moderate applications than too much at one time. Many believe you cannot get soil too
rich, but this is a fallacy in open air cultivation at least. If a long wet spell follows too much
fertilizer, especially if rich in ammonia, the flowers will be large, but so soft as to be practically
worthless for use. We have seen immense flowers that were so soft they wilted and never looked

right after being cut.
These flowers were worthless commercially but would have been the acme of perfection

to the amateur,

Under this heading I will call attention to plants which have become hard and woody, as
frequently happens when planted early, especially if the plants are large.

Do not hesitate to cut them back to encourage new growth, because, as stated previously,
the Dahlia blooms on the soft growth only, and if for any reason the growth has been checked
or the buds blasted, cut them back. As late as August Ist you can cut your plants down to the
ground if they are not growing and blooming and you will by the latter part of September get
: the finest results.

Plants affected with thrips or red spider should be cut
down to the ground, handling them carefully so as to destroy
all the insects with the tops if possible, and give the plants a
chance to send up new shoots from the roots. These plants
should have good culture and fertilizer if the soil is not rich.

Care must always be taken in disbudding that the terminal
bud has not been injured. Insects, dry or hot weather are the
principal causes. If the terminal bud is not perfect and healthy
leave one of the other buds. Where there is doubt it is well to
leave the first pair as well as the terminal, to insure a flower,
and leaving the best after they have developed sufficiently to
be sure of them.

Different varieties having different habits of growth, I have
tried to make disbudding plain by using a specified variety with
illustrations. I used John Wanamaker because it responds most
marvelously, and does not show its real size and beauty unless
disbudded, as it is such an early and profuse bloomer. Other
varieties can be handled according to their habit of growth,
using the same principle.

Do not forget that no matter how far down you disbud
the eyes will break out and give shoots that in turn can be dis-
budded, the process continuing until frost, and the roots will then
be excellent for the following year.

Pompons and Singles. Yes, even pompons and singles
should be disbudded, no matter for what purpose. Even a bed of
pompons will show up much better, the flowers will be brighter
and will last much longer when disbudded. This is because the
young growth does not hide the flowers and use the strength
from them. Also the shoots breaking lower will come on and
replace them as they fade.

DOROTHY PEACOCK

Showing natural habit of growth

THE DAHLIA.

os)
un

en

JOHN WANAMAKER PLANT AND ROOTS

Just as dug from field after frost, showing its wonderful branching habit of growth; note carefully the plant

was not pinched out and yet it branched out right from the ground

36 THE DAHLIA

NEW PAZONY DAHLIA, F. R. AUSTIN

THES DATILTA: 37

CHAPTER Vil

NEW VARIETIES.

HE popularity of a plant is always increased by the production of new varieties. Whether
this is, altogether, because we tire of existing kinds, or because the production of distinct
forms and types disproves the old adage of there being “nothing new under the sun,” our

readers must decide for themselves. The scientist would demonstrate that nothing new had
been created—that it was only new combinations of what existed before; but in this very demon-
stration, however, he would admit that which he was trying to disprove; it is these new and
marvelously beautiful combinations that excite the admiration of the flower-loving world. No
other flower has been so improved by the production of new varieties as the Dahlia, and, strange
to say, without impairing its vigor or growth.

Although many new varieties are produced by sports from existing kinds, the most 1m-
portant method, and only one by which real progress is made, is by planting selected seeds.
To secure the best results, seed should be saved from dwarf, very double varieties only, as they
not only bloom earlier but give a greater percentage of good flowers. Crossing varieties also
offers great possibilities in the production of superior sorts, and many specialists secure the
exact kinds they wish by the judicious selection of parent plants.

Artificial crossing of varieties is very easily accomplished if the proper care is taken,
although growers have, in the past, been content to depend chiefly on bees and other inse-ts
for all crossing, and simply gathered seed from the finest flowers. All that is necessary is to
select the varieties it is desired to cross, and apply the pollen of one to the pistil of the other
with a fine camel’s-hair brush. It will take several operations on each flower-head, as each
head is composed of numerous individual flowers which open slowly, commencing at the base
of the rays or petals. Care must be taken to remove the pollen from each flower of the head,
before it can impregnate the pistil with its own pollen, also to cover the flowers operated on
with wire screens, to keep off bees and other insects.

The seed can be sown thinly in the greenhouse, in a box in the house, or in a mild hot-bed
early in April, and transplanted into the open ground as soon as danger of frost is over. They
require the same treatment as other Dahlias, except that they must be watered until thoroughly
established, and will bloom freely the first season.

Of course where only a few seedlings are grown they can be potted as we do our rare
seedlings ; but, in a case of two hundred and fifty thousand, the expense would be prohibitive
and we transplant direct from seed row.

Growing new varieties from seed is most fascinating to amateurs, owing to the uncertainty
and expectancy ; for besides the possibility of raising a finer variety than was ever before pro-
duced, they have the pleasure of watching each plant as it first unfolds its hidden secret.

Sports have the same form and other characteristics of the variety from which they spring,
and are simply a reproduction of the old variety in a different color or colors. In some instances
they have simply a change in the ground color, as it seen in the “Fawcett” sports, while in
others there is a complete change of colors. They are seldom an improvement on the old
variety, and are most frequent among the Fancy sections. Some varieties sport permanently,
while others sport back and forth and cannot be depended on unless selected very carefully.
An example of the latter class can be found in the Fancy Dahlia “Dandy,” which is a red
pink, striped and heavily penciled, black, and is so apt to sport that, unless care is exercised,
nine-tenths of the flowers will be solid black. There is also a pink sport of this variety, but

38 THE DAHIETA:

NEW DECORATIVE DAHLIA, DR. TYRRELL

THE DAHLIA. 39

if care is taken to throw out all but the striped type for a few years, but little trouble will
be experienced in keeping it true.

This pink sported pure white and while it was hard to keep the penciled form the Pink
Dandy and White Dandy have never reverted.

Some of the new varieties recently introduced are marvels of entrancing loveliness, being
of largest size, most beautiful form, and of exquisite finish. While there has not been a blue
variety produced as yet, many believe it is only a question of a little time, for we already
have several purples containing blue shades; all that is needed is to develop those shades, and
we have the greatest floral novelty of the century.

A great deal has been said regarding the value of new varieties of flowers, both pro and
con; but it is now generally conceded “that new varieties of merit are not only beneficial to
floriculture, but are absolutely necessary to keep up a popular interest, in any class of plants
The past history of the Dahlia is sufficient proof of this; but, while new varieties are essential,
improvement is of still greater importance, and no variety should be introduced unless it has
more good points than any other variety of a similar color and type.

With the introduction of the Newer Cactus, Decorative, Peony, Collarette, Anemone,
Century, ete., we have now reached the stage when the Dahlia is the most popular of all garden
flowers. While a few years ago we wou'd not have dreamed of to-day’s masterpieces, we now
know that the end is not yet. We will continue to develop and improve existing types and

perfect and develop each new break as it appears.

STORM KING

40

THE. DAHETA:

GIANT CENTURY DAHLIA, MRS. WENDEL REBER

THE DAHLIA. 4]

DAHLIA WAREHOUSE

With packing and store rooms and lofts, with staff of employees

CHAPTER Vili

COMMERCIAL DAHLIA GROWING.

EW people realize the magnitude of commercial Dahlia growing to-day. The illustrations

will give a good idea of the extent of growing Dahlias for commercial cut flowers, and

these were all taken cn only one of the many Dahlia “Farms and Gardens,” while the fol-
lowing was written by the editor of the Florists’ Exchange October 24, 1914:

“The plants or roots are set out at various periods from April until August, partly owing
to the exigencies of the business and partly in order to secure a succession of bloom, The
rows are set at 4% feet apart, and the furrow for the planting is made with a Darnell marker,
6 inches deep, and the plants are set at 2% feet to 3 feet apart in the row, according to the
variety. The roots are covered in, and a roller passed over them, after which a light scratch
harrow follows so as to leave a broken surface soil. During the growing season the weeding
machine is kept constantly at work; even after rainy weather the hoe is kept active, not only
to suppress weeds but to scarify the surface, and conserve the moisture; moreover scarifying
cuts the upper roots of the Dahlia- plants, causing them to throw their roots down, and while
it retards growth, it tends toward a firmer type of stem, which is what is wanted. It is an
axiom here never to produce sappy growth. The weeder is shaped like a snow plow, with
two rows of curved prongs, and hoes about 7 feet width of ground, and goes over the Dahlia
plants with impunity, as it is found that the slight bruising or knocking does them no harm
in their earlier stages of growth. Of course, it requires a careful man to handle such a weeder.

“So soon as the plants begin to throw out stem growths, these are pulled away, leaving but
two main ones; in Midsummer these are topped to about one foot, and the resulting branches
from these are limited to ten, more or less, according to the variety, and if large blooms are
wanted, each shoot is disbudded to one flower; if not, of course this work is not undertaken.
The pinching is done by girls.

“About the month of August, when it is desired to encourage the growth for flowering a
few weeks later, a dusting along the rows is given of steamed bonemeal, and also, we believe,
of sulphate of potash, and where necessary, some nitrate of soda. This, of course, also depends
on the season and the condition of the plants; it may not be necessary in all cases. A good
deal of horse manure is also plowed into the soil in the Winter. No irrigation is practised.

42 THE DAHLIA.

FIELD OF DAHLIAS

“The blooms are shipped to Philadelphia, New York and Buffalo, mostly at the rate of
50,000 a day in the height of the season, which is around October 1, and 43 people are then
employed; at the present time as many as 34 find regular work.

“The store rooms, shipping room, and loft are comprised in a large, well built concrete

=

FIELD OF DAHLIAS

EE SD ATIETAS 43

CORNER OF CUT FLOWER ROOM

building, a view of which is shown. An annex for cut flowers has been added on the north
side, built of concrete blocks, and has a double ceiling, tiled, and an earthen floor, also plenty
of bench room; as many as 100,000 blooms can be housed ready for sale or shipment. The
flowers are brought in from the fields in a frame attached to the back of an auto, this con-
taining 20 buckets of 100 blooms each.

“During the whole of the flowering season large numbers of visitors in automobiles are
constantly coming and going, and many purchases are made by them. When shipping is at
its busiest, the staff works in two shifts, so that a part is always engaged cutting and sending
off or preparing to, even during the night.

“The stout cardboard boxes contain from 50 te 150 blooms each, according to the variety,
and from three to five of these boxes are fitted into a crate or frame, and so packed, they travel
with the utmost security.

“Tn regard to varieties it would require much more space than can be afforded now, to
name the many good kinds that were seen. John Wanamaker stands out as an ideal bright
pink Peony Dahlia; this is its proper class, although many have contended that it is a double
decorative form, which it really is early in the season, but assumes its true character in Octo-

A BOX OF SHOW DAHLIAS PACKED FOR SHIPMENT TO MARKET

44 THIS SDAEUIE EAS

ber. Jack Rose, rich crimson-purple, a small
decorative, is one of the freest bloomers; in all
respects an ideal Dahlia for the wholesale trade.
Some roots of this were planted in April, others
in Midsummer, and as many as 25 gcod blooms
have been cut from a single plant. The popular
sorts are grown in big batches, five that we
counted covering an area of 7% acres. These
were Jack Rose, Lyndhurst, Yellow Duke Ara-
bel'a and Red Hussar; a bronze sport from the
latter is also a great favorite, while others are
Marjorie Castleton, which has been in bloom
since July, and is still very pretty; Delice, one
of the best bright pink decoratives; Pilot, a good
amber flower; J. B. Riding, fine golden-russet
cactus; Sunshine, an excellent pompon; Effect-

ive, a lovely creamy-rose cactus; Bridal Robe, a
white cactus; Isabelle, a blush and cream colored

AFTER THE BOXES HAVE BEEN PACKED,

THEY ARE CRATED, AS SHOWN HERE-
WITH, AND ARE NOW READY show ; Success, clear bright yellow cactus; Mrs.
FOR THE EXPRESS COMPANY Douglas Fleming, white cactus, very free
bloomer ; Nerissa, a rosy-mauve pompon. These

represent some of the more prominent varieties, but indeed all kinds are here included from the

monster scarlet Souv. de Gustav Douzon to the gorgeous yellow and scarlet Pzeony-flowered
Geisha. The Twentieth Century singles, and the newer collarettes are all found in abundance,
but we must leave the discussion of varieties according to groups for another occasion, These
notes merely outline the extent and character of the business here conducted.”

Mr. Dick, in his description of a commercial Dahlia farm, naturally stopped with the flowers
packed and crated for shipment. It is here, however, that the Dahlia men have shown their
progressiveness, for, instead of cutting and shipping indiscriminately on consignment to the
wholesale florists, as is done with other flowers, the finer varieties are cut and shipped on
orders only.

This is absolutely necessary for several reasons and explains the wonderful growth in the
Dahlia cut flower industry. The Dahlia is as exquisitely formed and colored as orchids, bruise
as easily and must be handled as carefully. Therefore we say, Mr. Florist, give us your order
and we will pack it specially and as carefully as you would pack orchids; it will reach your city
and our representative will deliver it to you at once. No one will even see what you are getting,
much less handle or pick over them. We guarantee they will reach you in perfect condition.

But commercial Dahlia cut flower growing is not all sunshine. The season generally
commences in September and lasts until frost, about six weeks, but we are liable to have two or
three weeks of extremely hot weather in September, with an abundance of flowers and little
demand. :

Then we have the other extreme—a failure of the Aster crop and a dry, cool August, with
a brisk demand for Dahlias two to three weeks ahead of time. Even irrigation won't help, for it
is so cool the flowers open most tantalizingly slow, and, worse, one or two light frosts a week.

But it is the intermediate, when conditions run more normal, that evens up. Then we
don’t envy the amateurs, who can grow and enjoy their Dahlias any time and all the time and
do not have to have their flowers just at the right time in proper quantities, regardless of condi-
tions of temperature, moisture and supply of other flowers.

THE DAHLIA. 45

CHAPTER EX

DAHLIAS FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES.

HERE are now varieties of almost every conceivable color, form and habit; and, where

the finer varieties are known, they are largely used and highly prized, for all floral pur-

poses. There are many varieties that are similar in color, and from a general description
would be called identical; yet, owing to form and habit, they: are entirely distinct, and each
is pre-eminently adapted to some special purpose. It is; therefore, of the greatest importance
that the various characteristics of each variety should be given in the descriptions, that the
monotony and general similarity of the descriptive list can be avoided, and thus assist the buyer
in selecting varieties for any special purpose. In the past, Dahlias were grown. chiefly as
garden plants, where color was of importance, and little attention was given to any particular
shade or tint of that color; but with the knowledge of the adaptability of the plant to condi-
tions, and its value for so many special purposes, varieties to supply these needs were pro-
duced. Therefore, the time for buying and growing Dahlias under color is past, and both
the amateur and the grower will select certain named varieties for a certain purpose.

There was a time when Dahlias for commercial cut flower purposes must have stiff stems,
but now with the best florists this makes no difference, in fact, several have told me they prefer
a pliable neck, as they wire every flower they use, and for decorations they sometimes cannot
get the effect they want from the rigid stem varieties. Now, then, we all prefer a Dahlia with
a long stiff stem—many won’t grow any other kind; but think of the relief, not to speak of
the increased variety and artistic and decorative effects.

Dahlias are now used for every purpose in their season, as a cut flower for every conceiv-
able purpose they are used with most effective results. In fact, there is no use a flower can be
put to—bold, subdued, chaste, artistic or striking—-that the proper Dahlias cannot be selected and
used more effectively than any other flower available.

The wonderful variation in form alone from the various singles, duplex, peony, collarette,
anemone, decorative, cactus and ball, with their distinctive types. Then their variations in foliage,
habits, colors and blendings of colors in each of these classes and types of classes.

A bed of Minnie Burgle will surpass any bed of caunas in general satisfaction, as it will give
the rich glowing red effect and a daily decoration for the house will not be missed.

It may not be amiss to state that this grandest of all red Dahlias is a product of the Mare
Island Navy Yard, San Francisco, and a credit to Uncle Sam and his gardener who produced
it. It is not alone the large size and rich vermilion cardinal red of the flower, but the strong,
vigorous plant, that just blooms and blooms and then blooms some more, until killed by frost.

What variegated, yellow and red canna can compare with a bed of famous Geisha? These
beds not only are grand from a distance, but exquisite from a close inspection and are nice to carry
into the house or give to friends.

You can have a bed of pompons in one or more colors. Snowclad is well named white; Klein
Domitea would give you a bed of copper, with a corresponding wealth of pleasure and satisfaction.

For general garden culture I will name a few of the best in the two types that appeal most
as to size and general loveliness:

Cactus—Bridal Robe, Crystal, Electric, H. H. Thomas, Conquest, Fulgent, Marathon,
Mauve, Queen, Kalif, Marjorie Castleton, Monarch, Nellie Riding, Regularity, Rev. T. W.
Jamison, Richard Box, Success, Stability, Wodan.

Decorative—Ayeshia, Beloit, Bertha von Suttner, Bloemhove, Dr. Tynell, Flamingo, Grand

46 THE, DAHETA.

ONE-HALF BOX EXHIBITION DAHLIAS PHOTOGRAPHED ON ARRIVAL AT EXHIBITION

Duke Alexis, Goldmine, Hortulanus Fiet, Kathryn De La Mare, John Wanamaker, Le Grand
Manitou, Mme. Aymond, L. Kramer Peacock, Minnie Burgle, Papa Charmet, Perle de Lyon,
Queen Mary.

Peony—America, Andrew Carnegie, Dr. A. Kuyper, F. R. Austin, Geisha, H. J. Lovink,
Louise Hogg, Leo XIII, Lilac, Lullingstone, Mme. Van Loon, Monarch, Mrs. G. W. Kerr,
Mrs. Wm. Kerr, Mrs. G. Gordon, Peace, Peacock’s Yellow.

The other lists of varieties are not so long, therefore not so confusing to the beginner.
Again these varieties are as for 1917 season. The catalogues will give other new varieties from
year to year. I have not gone into long descriptions for I have not forgotten the many times it
has been necessary to go through a page of fine print description to get the color of a variety.

Dahlias are often used as a cover for a barren place, where only color was wanted. In
one case two thousand Wildfire Century was used on a small hillside that persistently refused to
grass. In another instance six thousand single mixed was planted four feet apart each way
to cover a hillside. The natural effect was most pleasing, although not so striking as if planted
in blocks of colors.

The possibilities of mass planting are not realized generally, and when it is considered that
4 x 4 feet or sixteen square feet are covered by one plant (and they do better at this distance
than closer) it is a very economical way of covering hog-backs, hillsides or any vacant piece
of land.

One of the most satisfactory locations is in the garden, directly between the lawn and
vegetables. Flowers are now a necessity in every home and every one can have an abundance

THES DATILIA: 47

THE BALL AND DECORATIVE WERE PACKED IN BOTTOM AND CACTUS ON TOP
NOTE PERFECT CONDITION

of flowers in any particular color or shade, and form by planting a few Dahlias on the house side
of the garden.

You have too many trees and shrubs for Dahlias to do well. Use pots. If you have never
used Dahlias in pots you cannot imagine what beautiful plants and blooms you can grow in
this way.

Or you can make a concrete box or bed, either sunken or on the surface of the ground,
being careful to have plenty of holes for drainage; fill up with good soil and plant your Dahlias.
You will be surprised at the results, right under the trees. Of course, you want suitable
varieties that are stronger for blooms than foliage. In fact, some varieties, like Electric, do
much better in partial shade, as the sun, in very hot, dry weather, is inclined to scorch the
outer petals of the delicately tinted varieties before they fully expand.

Nothing is handsomer than some of those immense, beautifully formed and richly shaded
or delicately tinted Dahlias on long, slender, gracefully drooping stems. They make a fine con-
trast to the bold upright growing varieties, and are really more valuable as they can be wired up,
so they can be used in any position.

It is surprising how much longer a flower will last if it is wired. The wires are very
cheap and the operation is very simple. Simply insert one end directly in the back of the flower
parallel to and alongside of the stem for a few inches, then wind it around the stem. You
will soon become expert. In making a decoration you can place each flower in just that par-
ticular position you want it by simply bending the wire.

THE DAHLIA.

48

MORNING

EES DATIETA: 49

CHARTER: X

DAHLIA EXHIBITIONS.

O FLOWER is better adapted for exhibition purposes than the Dahlia, which fact is

fully appreciated in England where Dahlia shows not only exceed the chrysanthemum

shows in number, but in surpassing beauty and popularity. In England, France, and
Germany, but especially in England, Dahlias are universally grown by all classes, and almost
every town and hamlet as well as the large cities, have a Dahlia show of their own. There,
in almost every garden, can be found the most beautiful varieties, grown especially for the local
Dahlia exhibition, where the titled gentleman and his humblest laborer compete on equal terms
for the same prizes. Nor does the humbler man compete in vain, for, in many cases, he wins
the prize for which he has striven so hard. As the Dahlia requires no special conditions or
greenhouses, it is entirely a matter of science and skill, and there is everywhere such a strong,
yet friendly, competition, as to arouse the greatest popular interest and enthusiasm.

How different in America. Here we have few shows during the summer and early autumn
months; but, early in November, there comes such a deluge of Chrysanthemum shows as to
almost bewilder us. Our florists and horticulturists seem to think the Chrysanthemum the only
flower worthy of an exhibition; and, then complain because the masses do not agree with them.
The November Chrysanthemum shows are losing in popularity, simply because the masses are
not interested in a flower they cannot grow; they admire them, but, lacking interest, do not
care to see about the same thing from year to year.

Somehow our leading horticulturists do not realize this, for they are now discussing this
monotony of, and lack of interest in, the flower shows. They attribute it to the system as may
be seen from the following quotation: “‘The next question is, how to get the masses to lend
us their eyes and ears. The present system seems to fall short somewhere, and is pretty near a
failure.”

The first thing is to have every local horticultural society become affiliated with the Amer-
ican’ Dahlia Society and give early Autumn shows. Not for Dahlias alone but include all
flowers and decorative plants; which, with the “Autumn foliage” give the greatest range and
possibilities. This is particularly advisable as in case of local climatic or other unfavorable con-
ditions, an appeal to the American Dahlia Society would result in aid from growers in more
favorable districts.

For Summer and early Autumn shows, especially in small cities, towns, and even country
villages, the Dahlia offers great possibilities, as it requires no special condition and can be
grown to perfection in every garden, with but little trouble and expense. In this respect, it
has no equal, and can truly be called the flower for the masses, as its superb beauty can be
as fully developed in the workingman’s garden as on the more pretentious grounds of his
more fortunate neighbors.

Not only in halls are exhibitions to be made, but nearly all the large growers have trial
or show beds. Many think a Dahlia exhibition should be given inside with cut flowers, but
the grandest exhibition I ever saw was two years ago, when we had a half-million disbudded
flowers open, to say nothing of the millions that were not disbudded over an area of one hun-
dred and twenty acres. We had anticipated a great season, but under the current conditions
caused by the outbreak of the great war, there was not sufficient demand and I only wish
every reader could have seen that magnificent exhibition, which I hope we may never see again
as it meant the loss of thousands of dollars. However it was appreciated by many thousands
of visitors.

50 THE DAHLIA.

NEW FANCY CACTUS DAHLIA, JUPITER

Let every Dahlia lover aid the local shows, but above all make a continuous exhibition
on their grounds and in their homes.

I am often told that the Dahlia can never supplant the Chrysanthemum, and that the
Dahlia shows would never reach the popularity of the Chrysanthemum shows. As to the first
no one would wish it, nor could it be, as they occupy two distinct seasons, and one follows the
other in perfect succession. The Dahlia is in bloom from June until October, while the finer
Chrysanthemums do not commence to bloom until the last of October and November; as they
thus occupy two distinct seasons, it is useless to compare their relative qualities. One is a popu-
lar garden plant, the other, to be fully developed, belongs to the greenhouse; both have their
missions—neither can be spared.

But in popularity, the Dahlia shows are destined to surpass every other floral exhibition
in the near future, as they require no special conditions; no greenhouses, and can be grown in
every garden, thus insuring spirited competition, without which the popularity of a show is

Sure to wane as the novelty wears off. Nor is this popularity undeserved; there, is no other

THE DAHLIA.

GREAT DECORATIVE DAHLIA, MRS. ROOSEVELT

flower can compare with them in range of colors or variegations, wh
the colors is unsurpassed in nature.

= = —

le the beautiful lustre of

It is only at a comprehensive Dahlia exhibition, that its many wonderful characteristics

can be seen. Flowers of almost every conceivable form and color, a

1 of superb beauty, are

tastefully arranged so as to give the most pleasing effects. Some plants only ten inches high

are exhibited in full bloom, while near by is a giant of ten, perhaps
are so many classes and types of Dahlias, that a person seeing a com
time would be very apt to ask:—‘But which are the Dahlias?”
Among the new introductions are varieties that resemble the Ch
Lily, the Cactus, and the Rose, besides improved forms of all the o

fifteen feet high. There

ylete exhibit for the first

rysanthemum, the Water

der types; and it is not

unusual to see specimen blooms six to eight inches in diameter, on stems two to three feet long

This diversity of types and forms, precludes the possibility of that

flower shows. The rapidly increasing popularity of the Dahlia will do
floriculture especially in the rural districts, and will undoubtedly encc
local societies, for the purpose of holding Summer and early Autumn
the country.

nonotony so common at
much towards developing
surage the formation of
flower shows, throughout

THE DAHLIA.

on
bo

The first annual exhibition of the reorganized American Dahlia Society, held in September,
1915, in New York City, was a revelation, not only to the immense crowds of visitors but to the
old guard florists. The American Dahlia Society is affiliated with the Society of American
Florists and Ornamental Horticulturists, and both Societies did their utmost to make the first
national exhibition of the newly reorganized Society the success it deserved.

To give an idea of this great Dahlia show I give below a reproduction of a section of the

display that was awarded the Gold Medal.

DAHLIA EXHIBIT

The competition was keen, not only for the best general displays but for vases of the
various colors on long stems, collections of each of the different classes and types and for indi-
vidual blooms, designs and various decorations.

Taken all in all it was a wonderful exhibition and set a high standard for all future
national Dahlia shows.

Every local community should have its Dahlia show, where the friendly competition excites
each grower to do his or her very best to surpass.

It is very easy to organize a local club or society, become affiliated with the American
Dahlia Society and help along the good cause, as well as community interest and personal satis-

faction. See chapter “American Dahlia Society,” page 55.

on
&

DEE DATTA.

CHAPTER Xx!

CONCLUDING REMARKS,

HILE a thorough stirring of the soil will generally give better results than watering, in

Vf garden cultivation, yet, when Dahlias are planted near trees, hedges, or large shrubs,

they will require liberal watering, especially in dry weather, as the roots of the trees

and shrubs will rob them of nature’s supply of moisture. Specimen plants on the lawn will also

need watering during dry weather, and will well repay this extra attention with their wealth

of bloom. A very common, yet fatal, error, is to start the roots in a hot-bed and allow the

shoots to become a foot or more in height before planting on the lawn, as a plant started this

way will need staking, and will always have a top-heavy appearance. A perfectly symmetrical

Dahlia bush is one of the loveliest plants for any open position on the grounds, and can be
grown with half the attention required by* almost any other flower.

It is best to prepare a circular bed, at least two feet in diameter, and thoroughly stir the
soil to the depth of eighteen inches to two feet. Plant large roots six to eight inches deep, and,
under the single stem branching system (see figure 4, page 23), the plant can be grown in any
desired form, by securing the branches to small supports.

It is not generally known that Dahlias make beautiful pot plants, and that, by feeding
them properly with manure water they fully equal the Chrysanthemum as an exhibition plant.
In growing plants in pots for exhibition, give them plenty of air and sunshine, though as cool a
position as possible, and never allow them to suffer from lack of moisture; but, during very hot
weather, partially protect them from the intense mid-day sun, which would injure the delicate
petals, and in some cases cause the flowers to fade.

As the Dahlia is so free from insects and disease, it was thought unnecessary to give the
subject a separate chapter. Mildew is the only disease worth mentioning, and is caused by cli-
matic conditions and unfavorable positions. Give your plants an open situation, and keep them
in a growing condition during dry weather by frequent stirring of the surface soil, or by a
thorough watering once each week during the drouth, and mildew will be unknown, If your
plants are badly affected they will never bloom, so cut them down to the ground, when they
will send up healthy shoots, and with proper attention, bloom until frost.

There are but few insects affecting Dahlias in America, and these are easily disposed of
by hand picking. The brown cut worm will sometimes cut off small shoots; as they will shoot
up again, destroy the worm, and but little damage is done. The black aster bug sometimes
attack the flowers but are easily picked off, as are also the spotted cucumber beetle—a small
yellowish green, black spotted beetle about one-fourth to three-eighths of an inch long, that
feeds on the shoots and flowers. As these insects are but few and scattering, and as mildew
is seldom seen, the Dahlia can, practically, be called free from insects and diseases.

In reference to the amateur planting the same roots from year to year, it is well to sound
a note of warning. Where Dahlias are planted early in rich soil and fed from time to time,
and the plants kept blooming the entire season, in other words, forced, the roots are thoroughly
exhausted and will not give the best results the following year. This applies to Dahlias as well
as to Dutch bulbs or anything else, especially because the plants are kept blooming under stim-
ulants, which prevents them from properly ripening and depositing plant food in the tubers, as
would be the case under ordinary culture. This will account for the fact that Dahlias do not
do so well in many cases the second year as the first.

54 TEE DAEWELA,

CHAPTER Xi

THE AMERICAN DAHLIA SOCIETY.

HIS Society, which already has members in several States, even as far west as Colorado,

was organized at Hotel Hanover, Philadelphia, on March 20, 1895. Unlike most socie-

ties, it was organized at the earnest solicitation of several amateur admirers of the “grand
old flower,” who saw the need of such an organization to thoroughly introduce the new types
and forms.

The Dahlia had underwent a complete transformation, and these admircrs saw that it was
necessary to show the marvelous results of more than a century’s constant improvement. But
there were other reascns for forming the society. The flower has always been popular with
amateurs and gardeners, even if neglected by professional horticulturists, and has been largely
grown, especially in the rural districts; but, owing to multiplicity of names and inferiority of
varieties, the demand was becoming less each year, and the admirers of the flower, having
been deceived so many times by beautiful pictures and glowing descriptions, were willing to
buy only where they could see the varieties in bloom. As soon as the specialists realized this
fact, they at once joined hands with the amateurs, and the formation of the American Dahlia
Society was the gratifying result.

It is the intention of the society to carefully classify all the existing varieties, and make
a meritorious list of all scoring a given number of points. This will greatly increase the
popularity of the plant, by restoring perfect confidence in the varieties offered for sale.

The society was organized solely in the interest of floriculture in general, and not to make
money, as may be seen from the fact that the yearly dues are but one dollar. This subject
was carefully considered, and it was decided to make the society a popular one.

It is also the desire of the National Society, to assist the formation of Local Societies
in every floral community, for the purpose of holding local exhibitions during the Summer and
Autumn months. True, there are exhibitions in all the large cities during November, but the
majority of gardeners and amateurs are unable to compete, as they have no greenhouses or
other facilities for growing Roses, Chrysanthemums, Carnations, and other flowers during that
season of the year. November is therefore too late for popular shows, and it is only in large
towns and cities that they can be held with even partial success.

In speaking of this subject an amateur said: “Of course early shows would not be pop-
ular with the florists; but as the florists have exhibitions in November, why should not the
people have exhibitions during the Summer and early Autumn, when the garden can compare
favorably with the best of greenhouse establishments?” This is all true, except their not being
popular with florists. Whatever would increase popular interest in floriculture would always be
the most pleasing to florists, and they would be only too willing to exhibit and render every as-
sistance possible to the holding of early shows; this is most evident from the fact that they could
exhibit their finest plants without danger of chilling, injury from gas, or other dangers, and at a
time when popular interest and demand would be greatest. If these early shows were held
throughout the country they would increase the interest in floriculture and, perhaps, the Chrys-
anthemum exhibitions would be more liberally patronized than during the past few years.

The organizers of the “American Dahlia Society” were aware of the lack of popular in-
terest in the late shows, and believed it was, partly, because the amateur could not grow and
exhibit flowers at that season, and partly because the exhibits were so stiff, formal and monot-
onous. Therefore they do not advocate an exhibition of Dahlias only; but, as the family is

THE DARILTA:

tn
on

so large and the range of colors, forms and habits so extensive, Dahlias are urged as a nucleus
around which can be gathered all the other gems of the garden, conservatory and greenhouse.
In exhibitions of this kind there is always something new at every step, and no two shows are
alike; this with the interest displayed by the amateur and gardener, who can compete for every
prize on equal terms with the large grower, imparts the greatest popular interest, appreciation
and enthusiasm.

One of the chief attractions at these early shows, is the lack of that monotony so common
at floral exhibitions held at a later date; vases, hanging baskets, festoons of wild flowers and
vines, intermingle with the various exhibits in an ever-changing, yet pleasing, manner; while,
here and there, groups of large decorative plants break the outline, and the visitors behold a
charmingly distinct view at every turn.

The new society realized the necessity of holding these early and popular shows, and next
September (1896) propose to give such a comprehensive show as was never seen before. Skilled
decorators will have charge of the exhibition hall, and everything will be gracefully and artis-
tically arranged to give the most pleasing effect. Many new departures will be made in the
manner of exhibiting, while the prize list will be so arranged as to give amateurs an equal
chance with florists and growers, also with the view of giving a beautiful, novel, and entirely
distinct exhibition.

The society is national in its scope, and is receiving the earnest support of both amateurs
and professionals. The executive committee represents three States—Pennsylvania, New York
and New Jersey—while the membership extends as far east as Massachusetts, as far west as
Colorado, and south as far as Texas. The society is also a popular one, and not devoted to
any one class, but to the interest of every class; and the only qualification needed is an interest
in floriculture; every amateur, gardener, seedsman, nurseryman and florist are cordially in-
vited to membership.

Every floral community should be represented in the society, as one of its chief objects
is to assist and further, in every way possible, the holding of floral exhibitions throughout the
country. That every one interested in flowers might become members, the annual member-
ship fee was placed at one dollar, which can be sent to the secretary, who will, also, cheerfully
give any further information relating to the society or its exhibitions.

A society organized on such broad principles as the American Dahlia Society is worthy
of the liberal support of every admirer of beautiful flowers. It has risen above any one flower
by advocating an exhibition of all, and only adopted its name because the Dahlia, being the
only flower qualified in every way to fill the space between Roses and Chrysanthemums, is the
best as a nucleus for popular Summer and Autumn shows, where millionaire, workingman and
florist can compete for the same prizes, with equal chances of success; where greenhouses are
unnecessary, and victory follows in the footsteps of the skillful.

The writer regrets that since writing the first edition of this treatise The American Dahlia
Society has undergone many vicissitudes. The first few years, under its able management, it
was very successful and several exhibitions were held and the cause of the Dahlia greatly bene-
fited, but owing to a lack of unity of purpose and a failure to get the various growers and
dealers to work in harmony with the original ideas of making the society strictly a Dahlia
Society in the interests of the Dahlia, and especially the amateur growers, it has been allowed
to sleep peacefully and nothing has been done the past few years. The work done by the so-
ciety is already bearing good fruit in the smaller towns as well as in the large cities. It is
certainly to be hoped that as the general interest in Dahlias increases that this society may be
reorganized on its original lines and the introduction of the many marvelous new varieties and
new types of Dahlias may make Dahlia exhibitions even more interesting and instructive than
ever. The Dahlia is now becoming a factor in the cut-flower market and thousands are sold
daily in each of the large cities, in many cases for prices higher than Roses. Each year the
exhibitions are improving and the demand is becoming so persistent for Dahlia shows that even
Horticultural Societies and Florists’ Clubs are having regular Dahlia shows each year.

56 THE DAHLIA:

While the writer regrets very much the present abandonment of the society, yet he feels
it is much better so, than to have it diverted from the original broad plan on which it was
organized and on which it will, undoubtedly, in the near future, be reorganized and success-
fully carried to a glorious future.

It is most gratifying to the writer to announce in this fifth edition of the book ‘The
Dahlia,” the reorganization of the American Dahlia Society in May, 1915, along the broad lines
on which it was first organized with the result that we now have about three hundred and
twenty-five members in good standing and gave in September, 1915, one of the finest Dahlia
exhibitions ever given. The society is on a good financial basis having a comfortable surplus

after paying all expenses.
A number of local horticultural societies have become affiliated with the American Dahlia
Society. We mention here a list of officers and committeemen for 1916:

List or Orricers 1915-16.
President.
Richards VinGent slits sa aces cerocke terete aa acimeecne-re her iar White Marsh, Md.

Secretary.
disblannisony Dicks; f.cl acer 1426 Seventy-third St., Brooklyn, N. Y.

Treasurer.
Pe Ree PANATS Elta easer ape tone nite. Sians oevels etna Ree etal heuer ae Tuckerton, N. J.

Geo Tes Stillman = Aa steers = cyorestovevaueveters tetera ees eee beevele a Westerly, R. I.
Beonandl Barnome.s 2 crevait-ix- suedetey~ caerchees erro Rcus tere te Garden City, L. I.
JIBS Norton. 3 iiss etoile hese ahelons tapas 3 ere eee College Park, Md.

WEA WeeWWalimione: axon cic ttesncusieecrovery sex nnn ons seeare commen Denver, Colo.
Representing the West.

Executive Committee.

Geom Kerns: cc civn tit acete evan on nen Oe Taeetere Philadelphia, Pa.
i S#eblendnicksonsesees cet nae oe eee Flowerfield, L. I., N. Y.
Je Duthiee ste eRe nce ene ee eer mee Oyster Bay, N. Y.
es Wi O Dp inve kee aek cic sca PN an 3 eRe oe Mamaroneck, N. Y.
Nomenclature Committee
Prot. Fy ah Hall c. ssa heen eae ae oe Oe Geneva, N. Y.
He IS CACOCK sh, Wa. cit ietaya eather ere eel pace afer oer Berlin, N. J.
Geo. Wi Fraser sibs 25. fedaitis ces syste etehae phere OE OE ee Storris, Conn.
ESS SAB ROWS or creite ec eae nee eee Oe Te East Moriches, L. I., N. Y.
ames, Kear byw tesa sneretso = Geles ora oto cious ee ine sty sere Huntington, N. Y.

Every Dahlia lover should become a member of the society which was organized and is
being conducted in the interests of the Dahlia and for the benefit of the amateur grower. The
initiation fee is one dollar, active membership dues two dollars each, associate membership
dues one dollar each. Bulletins are issued from time to time and it is proposed to issue a
year book each year. The American Dahlia Society is affiliated with the Society of American

THE, DAHLIA: 57

Florists and Ornamental Horticulturists and arrangements have been made whereby local socie-
ties may become affiliated with the American Dahlia Society for the sum of ten dollars per
year. At the present rate of growth it promises to eclipse all other floral societies in point
of numbers and enthusiasm. Any information may be secured by writing to the Secretary,
Mr. J. Harrison Dick, 1426 Seventy-third St., Brooklyn, N. Y., or to any of the other officers or
members of committees.

In connection with the American Dahlia Society we call attention to the official trial
grounds at Geneva Experimental station conducted by Prof. F. H. Hall. Prof. Hall will have
growing this year, about three thousand varieties where everyone interested in Dahlias may go
and see them.

Prof. Hall also issues a Dahlia Bulletin which may be procured by writing to him request-
ing it to be sent, enclosing stamps for return postage, as long as the present edition lasts.

TYPE OF CENTURY DAHLIA

58 THE DAPILTA:

CHAPTER All

SELECT LIST OF VARIETIES.

N THE following pages will be found the very cream of all the new standard varieties,
carefully selected from the thousands of varieties now in cultivation. The varieties
named in each class represent a complete range of colors and forms, and each is the
best of its color and type. Each collection is correctly classified. Descriptions are approxi-
mately correct, although it will not be amiss to state here that the Dahlia varies in different
locations and under different conditions, especially climatic conditions. For instance, Sunning-
dale is a pure white in England, while in America it is a delicate pink. There is also a differ-
ence in the size, many of the varieties blooming much larger early in the season and gradually
opening smaller and lighter as the season advances, especially during the long, cool nights
and short days of September and October.
This list is thoroughly revised right down to date, and in many cases where old and favorite
varieties have been omitted, it is only because newer and better varieties have taken their places.
Our object in presenting this list is not to give a collection of all the good Dahlias, but a
select list of the very best only.

CACTUS DAHLIAS

A. D. Stoop.—Rich crimson with darker center; an excellent garden variety with good stems.

Aegir.—Bright vermilion crimson. Unique distinct form.

America.—Large, blush-pink, striped penciled and spotted carmine. Long slender petals.

A. Morgan.—Deep, rich crimson; very fine.

Amos Perry.—Brightest vermilion-scarlet.

Arthur Picquart.—A very pleasing shade of soft salmon pink.

Aschenbrodel.—Orange pink, with delicate yellow tips. Very distinct and effective.

Auburn Beauty.—An exquisitely formed autumn shade variety; yellow, shaded bronze red.

Aurora.—Reddish apricot, suffused pink tipped white.

Bianca.—Very large and fine; color deep rose.

Blenda.—Rosy crimson with cream base, finely formed flower with long, narrow incurved petals.

Bosnia.—A most unique form, with cleft or stag-horn petals; rich orange.

Bridal Robe.—One of the very best white cactus, with large full flowers with great substance and keeping
qualities.

Brigadier.—Bright crimson; large full flowers.

Brittania.—Soft salmon, suffused pink.

Butterfly.— Well named; large, well-formed flowers; deep crimson, tipped white.

Candeur.—Large creamy white with long stems.

Celia.—Rich pink; a fine free bloomer.

Charm.—Yellow, shaded darker; tipped white.

Chas, Clayton.—Dazzling red; very free.

C. H. Curtis.—Rich scarlet crimson, very large; very large incurved petals.

Citizen.—Rich dark red.

Clara.—Soft mauve, tipped yellow.

Clara J. Stredwick.—Salmon, shaded darker; very fine.

Claudius.—One of the very best; bright, bold crimson, of largest size, with long narrow petals.

Cockatoo.—Clear yellow, tinted fawn, tipped white. The flowers are very large, of beautiful form.

Colado.—A very fine garden variety, free and continuous bloomer; color bright carmine cerise.

Comedy.—Yellow striped and penciled red. The flowers are of good size and fine form.

Comet.—Very large, silvery lake, penciled and spotted crimson,

Conquest.—One of the very best; dark rich crimson maroon.

Conrad.—Yellow, blending with terra-cotta; very fine petals; largest size and a very profuse bloomer.

Countess of Lonsdale.—Yellow, suffused salmon red, tinged violet.

Country Girl.—Large, deep golden yellow, tipped bright amber. Beautifully incurved petals.

Crepuscle.—Yellow shaded deep orange; large, splendidly formed flowers.

Crescent.—Bright coral red, shaded yellow; a fine exhibition flower.

THE DAHLIA. 59

Crystal.—One of the very finest, clear, soft pink cactus; flowers are of enormous size with long, narrow,
incurved petals.

Dahliamum.—Color is a rich creamy white, shading to primrose at the center and tinting to white at the
tips.

Delicat.—Purple, richly shaded

Dr. Kendall.—An excellent autumn shade variety; bright yellow shaded rich orange; an
Marshall.

Duchess of Marlboro.—Golden orange overlaid solferino

improved Wm.

; large, long drooping stems.
Echo.—A fine formed flower of a distinctly distinct shade of rose.

Effective.—A very distinct primrose, shaded amber.

Electric.—Rich, clear canary yellow; each petal heavily tipped white; delicate and chaste.
Elsa.—White, suffused and edged pink.

Emu.—Rose base, shaded crimson; very fine form.

Etenderd de Lyon.—Rich carmine rose, shaded darker; very large and entirely distinct.
Eureka.—Distinctively beautiful, bright purple; a splendid flower with long, narrow petals.
Evening Star.—A fine “autumn shade” variety; beautiful golden center, shading to bright terra-cotta.
Excelsior.—A splendid garden and exhibition variety; color rich velvety maroon.
Exquisite.—Shades of gold and amber.

Faunus.—Yellow shading to rosy scarlet; long, narrow petals. Height, 4 feet.

Flag of Truce.—A splendid large, pure white. Height, 4 feet.

Flagstaff.—A fine cut-flower variety; carmine tipped rosy mauve, yellow center; long stiff stems.
Flame.—Bright orange scarlet; bright and effective. Height, 3 feet.

Flamingo.—Vermilion-crimson.

Floradora.—Beautiful pure garnet; splendid form and free bloomer.

Florid.—Bright scarlet; beautiful flowers, with long narrow petals, borne on long stems.

Frances White.—A large, beautifully-formed flower; pure white, shading to sulphur white at center.
Fulgent.—Brilliant crimson-scarlet; flowers large with full center; an early and free bloomer.
Gaillard.—Bright vermilion red; large with long, slender petals.

Galathea.—White suffused violet rose, shaded mauye.

Gelber Printz.—New. clear yeliow cactus.

General Buller.—Rich velvety maroon, tipped white; sometimes called the cactus “Frank Smith.”
General French.—Orange terra-cotta; fine for decorations.

General J. B. Seth.—Very large and early; color rich strawberry red.

Germiston.—Dark glowing crimson; flowers large with long, narrow petals; an early and free bloomer.
Gluck Auf.—Large rich orange; dwarf habit.

Golden Eagle.—Verv large; bright yellow, suffused rose and fawn; one of the best.

Golden Gate.—A very large hybrid-cactus of a rich. deep golden yellow suffused and shaded fawn.
Golden Plover.—Golden yellow, shaded bronze toward the tips; large and fine, with long, narrow petals.
Goldland.—Clear yellow; an early and profuse bloomer, medium size, fine form.

Goliath.—Yellow, suffused and shaded salmon.

Great Western.—Very large, bright purple; entirely distinct.

Gwen Tucker.—An exquisite cactus of finest form, with long, incurved petals; soft flesh pink.
Harlequin.—Bright carmine, edged and tipped white; distinct and striking.

H. H. Thomas.—PBeautiful deep rich crimson; very large; splendid incurved form.

H. Shoesmith.—Brilliant vermilion-scarlet; splendid form; long slender quill petals.

Humming Bird.—Distinct, yellow tipped white.

Hyacinth.—Yellow, shading to mauve pink.

Ideal.—A truly ideal variety; splendid form with long stiff stems; color rich bronze yellow.
Iolanthe.—Deep coral red, tipped gold; a large, well-formed flower with long stiff stems.

J. B. Briant.—Rich yellow, of immense size. Petals long, narrow and beautifully incurved.

J. B. Fry.—Primrose yellow, shading to delicate lilac rose at tips.

J. B. Riding.—Golden yellow, shaded darker.

J. H. Jackson.—Very large; rich velvety maroon,

Johannesburg.—Immense size; deep yellow, with bronze shading; a free bloomer.

John Woolman.—Scarlet, shaded rose; a large finely formed flower; early and free bloomer.
Juliet.—Rosy pink tinting lighter toward the center; very large, with long incurved petals.
Jupiter.—Yellow at base, passing to salmon rose at tips; the whole striped and penciled bright crimson.
Kalif._Very large; pure scarlet.

Killarney.—Bright orange; large fine form and free bloomer.

Kingfisher.—Color distinct, pure lilac; beautiful form; a splendid exhibition flower.
Kriemhilde.—Deep rosy pink with lighter center.

60 THE DAHLIA.

CACTUS DAHLIA, MAGPIE

THE DAHLIA.

Lacemaker.—Deep carmine; suffused and often tipped white; very free flowering.

Lady Fair.—Primrose tinged soft pink; very distinct.

Lady Swathling.—Verv large; clear yellow, shading to deep salmon pink.

Lawine.—A magnificent flower of largest size; white suffused blush.

Leda.—Cream, shading to deep violet rose.

Leuchtfeuer.—Fine form; bright red, shaded darker.

Liberty.—Rich, velvety maroon heavy tipped bright cr-mson.

Lustre.—Scarlet-vermilion, shading to crimson; an early, free and continuous bloomer.

Lyric.—Large. rich yelicw, shaded bronzy red; early and profuse bloomer.

Magnet.—Salmon buff; fine.

Magpie.—(See page 61.) Distinct; color varies from delicate pink to rich maroon, with
variations.

Marathon.—Very large; yellow, shaded rosy carmine.

Marg. Bouchon.—A charming, bright, lively pink, tinting to flesh pink at center; splendid form.

Marjorie Castleton.—Rosy pink, tinted lighter toward center and tips.

Mary Farnsworth.—Pure yellow, heavily tipped pure white; distinct.

Mary Purrier.—Large, rich red; fine form, long stems.

Mary Service.—Bright salmon, edged and overlaid lilac.

Master Carl.—Bright orange salmon; the largest cactus dahlia grown.

Masterpiece.—Soft sea amber at base of petals passing to lilac rose at tips.

Mauve Queen.—PBeautiful clear mauve.

Mercury.—Yellow striped and penciled crimson.

Millicent.—Orange carmine; very free.

Miss Stredwick.—Very fine and large; rose and white.

Miss Wilmott.—Orange, shading to scarlet; large, early and free, with long, stiff stems.

Mme. Desmaris.—Bright rosy scarlet, tinting lighter at tips with golden suffusion.

Mme. Eschenauer.—Yellow at base of petals, passing to sulphury white suffused and tipped

Mme. Henri Cayeux.—Soft clear pink with lighter center; very fine.

Model.—vVery pleasing, yellow passing to rose.

Monarch.—Bright bronzy red, yellow center; large, fine exhibition flower.

Morning Glow.—Soft golden yellow, tipped amber; very large and profuse bloomer.

Mrs. Brandt.—Very large; yellow, shading to salmon buff; splendid form.

Mrs. C. G. Wyatt.—A beautifully formed pure white cactus, with long incurved petals.

Mrs. C. Page.—Rich crimson.

Mrs. D. Fleming.—Very large; pure white, with long, narrow, incurved petals and long, stiff st

Mrs. De Luca.—Golden yellow, tipped orange; very fine.

Mrs. F. C. Stoop.—Fine yellow; good stem.

Mrs. H. J. Jones.—Scarlet, tipped white; bright and effective.

Mrs. J. P. Mace.—Very large, of beautiful regular form. Color, soft shell pink.

Mrs. H. Shoesmith.—The best pure white cactus dahlia.

Mrs. Seal.—Deep maroon, tipped light rose.

Nancy Mae.—Dark, rich cardinal red.

Nellie Riding.—Deep crimson, each petal tipped pure white.

Nerthus.—Glowing, bronzy orange yellow, tipped carmine rose.

New York.—Very large; orange yellow, shading to rosy salmon.

Nibelungenhort.—Immense flowers, 7 to 8 inches across; rich golden apricot, suffused old rose.

Perle Hilde.—A delicate shell pink, sport of Kriemhilde.

Phoenix.—Rich cardinal red with carmine markings; large and fine.

Pink Pearl.—Soft rosy pink; an early and profuse bloomer.

Pius X.—A superb snow white; a strong grower and free bloomer.

Prima Donna.—Large creamy white, with long slender petals.

61

intermediate

rosy lake.

ems.

Primrose Queen.—A splendid flower with long, narrow, incurved petals; clear primrose yellow.

Prince of Yellows.—Soft, golden yellow; very profuse bloomer.

Regularity.—Bronzy yellow at base, shading to rich red; with long, narrow, incurved petals.

Reine Cayeaux.—Dark, rich red; an early and profuse bloomer.
Reliable.—Salmon yellow, shading darker; very profuse.

Rev. D. R. Williamson.—Rich velvety crimson.

Rev. T. W. Jamison.—Yellow, suffused lilac.

Rheinkoenig.—A large and very early and free-blooming pure white cactus.
Rheingau.—Very large; brilliant scarlet, produced freely on long, stiff stems.
Richard Box.—A superb yellow, of large size and splendid form; clear light yellow.

62 THE DAHLIA.

GREAT WHITE CACTUS DAHLIA, MRS. D. FLEMING

RHE DAEIEIAS 63

SNOW WHITE CACTUS DAHLIA, SNOWDEN

Rosy Morn.—Bright carmine rose, tinting lighter toward the base of the petals.

Satisfaction.—Soft pink, with long, narrow, incurved petals.

Sequoia.—Large golden bronze; fine form, on long, stiff stems.

Sherlock.—Bright orange cinnamon; an early, free and continuous bloomer on long stems.

Signal.—Rich red, of perfect form.

Snowden.—A beautiful pure white, of largest size, borne on long, slender stems.

Splendour.—Very fine rich crimson.

Stability.—Large and fine; color clear carmine rose, distinct.

Standard Bearer.—Bright, clear scarlet; very profuse.

Stormer.—Very large, deep scarlet; long, narrow, pointed petals.

Striped Kriemhilde.—A striped sport of Kriemhilde. Color white, striped pink.

Success.—Clear yellow; free on long stems.

Sunset.—Yellow at base, shading to bright apricot; very full, free.

Sweet Briar.—One of the loveliest shades of clear, soft pink; very long, narrow, incurved petals.

T. G. Baker.—Very large, finely-formed flowers on long stiff stems. The best clear, bright yellow
cactus. :

The Bride.—Pure white; medium size, splendid form and an early bloomer.

The Earl.—A fine exhibition dahlia; rich ruby crimson.

The Imp.—Probably the darkest Dahlia grown; color richest maroon, shaded black.

64 THE SDAEIETA:

CACTUS DAHLIA, SATISFACTION

The Lion.—Probably the largest of all cactus Dahlias; color yellow, shading to reddish salmon.
The Pilot.—Yellow, heavily tipped bright terra-cotta.

Thomas Oberlin.—Intense scarlet; very fine large flowers with long incurved petals.
Trojan.—Pale yellow, outer petals suffused salmon; very large and full; profuse.

Una.—A beautiful soft pink with very long incurved twisted petals with stag horn tips.
Vater Rhein.—Yellow, suffused salmon rose; flowers are very large and borne erect.
Vedette.— Scarlet, tipped white; fine.

Wacht Am Rhein.—Soft Hydrangea, pink tinting to white at center.

Walkure.—Sulphur yellow, shading to golden yellow at center; very large free bloomer.
W. E. Dickson.—Brilliant crimson.

Wellington.—Rich crimson scarlet; fine for exhibition.

White Kriemhilde.—A pure white sport of Kriemhilde; a good commercial white.

White Swan.—A beautiful pure white cactus.

Wodan.—Old gold at center, shading to salmon rose; flowers very large and beautiful.
Wolfgang Von Goethe.—Very large, rich apricot, shaded carmine.

W. T. Rodgers.—Crimson, shaded velvety maroon.

Wunderkind.—Light yellow passing to soft rose at tip of petals; very pleasing and effective.
Yellow King.—Immense flowers; clear light yellow.

THE DAHLIA. 65

DECORATIVE DAHLIA, NYMPHAA

DECORATIVE DAHLIAS

A. C. Ide.—Dark velvety red.

American Beauty.—Very large; bright crimson; the giant flowers are perfectly double.
Armentine Desblains.—Soft pink, tinting cream; fine

Annie Doppenberg.—Clear light yellow.

Aug. Nonin.—Very large; bright rich scarlet.

Beloit.—Immense size; the rich crimson flowers are of beautiful semi-cactus form.
Bertha von Suttner.—Beautiful soft mauve pink, very large; plant is dwarf.
Black Beauty.—Deep velvety maroon, shading black.

Bloemhove.—Very large and free flowering; color lilac rose.

Blue Oban.—Soft lavender blue; nearest to blue in Dahlias.

Breeze Lawn.—Very large, fine form; color fiery vermilion.

Brittannia.—Large, clear lilac. New.

Bronze Beauty.—Yellow, suffused bronze red.

Carmen.—A pleasing shade of orange red. New.

Chanoine Ducrot.—Immense size. Vivid scarlet pointed petals

Charlotte.—A fine bedding variety; color rich orange.

Claribel.—Brieght imperial purple.

Clio.—Dark lilac; a very profuse bloomer.

Constancy.—Golden terra-cotta, shaded reddish brown.

66 THE

DECORATIVE DAHLIA, JACK ROSE

Gaiety.—A beautiful and = striking variety; bright
Giant of Stuttgart.—Immense size; vivid crimson.
Glorie Lyonaise.—Golden yellow, tipped rosy carmin
Golden Wedding.—Very large, rich golden yellow.
Grand Duke Alexis—WWhite, edged lavender, quilled
Guillaume de St. Victor.—White suffused soft mauve
Hallebarde.—Very large, clear yellow, suffused scarle
Harpon.—Citron yellow, heavily tipped red.

Henri Jordan.—Very profuse; rich red.

Henry Patrick.—Large, snow-white flowers, beautif
Hohenzollern.—Very large and fine-dark velvety red.
Hortulanus Budde.—Bright orange red; immense s
Hortulanus Fiet.—Salmon, yellow center; very lar
Hortulanus Witte.—Splendid pure white.

Jack Rose.—The best crimson, for garden or cutting, t
Jan Olieslagers.—aA fine clear yellow.

DATIVIA:

Corrona.—A miniature pure white of perfect form and
extremely free flowering.

Corry.—Clear soft rosy lake.

Crimson Giant.—Richest glowing crimson.

Cuban Giant.—Rich velvety purple, shaded maroon.

Delice.—The best pure bright rose pink, entirely dis-
tinct, beautiful form.

Dr. Tyrrell.—The flowers are 6 to 8 inches across and

4 inches deep, with broad reflex pedals. A rich,
golden bronze.
Esmeralda.—Full, deep flowers; pale pink, heavily

tipped deep rich carmine pink.
Fantasie.—A new acquisition; salmon shaded blue;
distinct.
F. Grinsted.—Very large, clear yellow, striped red;
strong, vigorous grower; distinct.
Fireburst.—An immense flower; soft red, with long
stems.
Flamingo (Red).—Immense size and fantastic
form with long broad twisted and curled petals.
Color brilliant red.

Flora.—Pure

most

white; large, early, profuse and con-

tinuous.

Gabriel Delaon.—Dark velvety maroon.

cherry red and tipped white.
e; large, early and profuse.
petals.

rose,

t; distinct and striking.

ul form and great substance.

ize.

ge.

hat brilliant crimson.

Jean Wood.—White suffused violet mauve; irregular petals.
J. Lidden Pennock.—A dwarf branching plant, producing immense rich, plum-colored flowers.

John Wanamaker.—A beautiful variety; color rich o
Jumbo.—Deep red, shaded maroon.

rchid pink; very profuse bloomer; must be disbudded.

Kaiserin Augusta Victoria.—Large, snow-white; early and profuse bloomer.

Kinds Pink.—Soft pink, with lighter center.
Kate Seybold.—White suffused carmine and maroon, 1

ightly edged white.

Katherine De La Mare.—A surpassing delicate tinted variety that appeals; primrose, passing to creamy

white, lightly suffused soft rose.
King Albert.—Rich velvety plum; very large and fine.
La France.—Rich cerise.

Le Grand Manitou.—New; immense size; pink, striped rich crimson.

Lyndhurst.—Brightest vermilion; the best bright red
Maid of Kent.—Rich cherry red, tipped white.
Manzanola.—Bright fiery red.

Marianne.—Distinct purple and white.

Meadow Gold.—Sulphur yellow, with pink shading on
Melody.—Color clear canary yellow, tinting to cream
Mephisto.—Rich velvety crimson.

for cutting. An early free bloomer.

outer petals.

y white at the tips; one of the finest.

Minnie Burgle.—The finest red Dahlia to date; rich cardinal red.

TEE DARIETA. 67

Minnie McCullough.—Very striking. Soft
golden yellow, tipped bronzy red.

Miss Alice Roosevelt.—Very large white
shaded lilac.

Mme. Aymond.—Very fine shade of
mauve,

Mme. A. Lumiere.—V\Vhite, tipped bright
violet red.

Mme. Marz.—Immense size; pure white;
probably the largest white Dahlia;
perfectly full.

Mme. Vanden Dael.—Very large; silvery
rose, shaded rose.

Mont Blance.—A splendid large, white, with
long, stiff stems.

Morocco.—Rich maroon, tipped white; very
large, with long, stiff stems.

Mrs. C. H. Breck.—A beautiful variety of
the Hybrid class; soft yellow, suf-
fused carmine.

Mrs. Chas. Turner.—Very large; clear
canary yellow.

Mrs. Fleers.—Bright cherry red.

Mrs. Harrison Dick.—One of the most re-

markable decorative Dahlias. The
flowers are large of full form; yel-
low at the center passing to orange
and shading to amber at the tips. The plant is a sturdy grower, bearing the large flowers on long erect
rigid stems.

Mrs. J. Gardner Cassett.—Very large; bright cerise pink.

Mrs. Roosevelt.—Very large soft pink.

Nymphea.—One of the most delicately beautiful white, suffused shrimp pink.

Oban.—Very large; rosy lavender; overlaid silvery fawn.

Old Gold.—One of the richest autumn shades, old gold, shading to orange.

Orange Beauty.—An exquisite glistening orange shade; medium size and perfect form.

Orange King.—Richest shade of orange; very profuse biccmer.

Orange Pearl.—Rich orange tipped white; distinct and pleasing.

Oregon.—Intense oriental red with carmine suffusion; very fine.

Papa Charmet.—Bright coral red, overlaid dark velvety crimson; the flowers are large.

Perle de Lyon.—Splendid pure white, similar to Perle d’Or, but better.

Perle de Parc.—Very large; white with long stiff stems; profuse bloomer.

Pink Jack Rose.—Rose pink sport of Jack Rose.

President Fallieres.—Bright orange red.

Prince of Orange.—A rich glowing orange.

Princess Juliana.—Creamy white; very free.

Prof. Lauder.—Rich crimson carmine, striped red and tipped white; curled and twisted petals.

Professor Mansfield.—A pleasing combination of yellow, red and white.

Propaganda.—Large and fine; primrose yellow, lightly suffused red.

Queen Mary.—An improvement over Delice, with full rounded center and a softer shade of pink.

Richmond.—An improved Jack Rose; an early, profuse bloomer; color rich glowing crimson.

Roem van Nykerk.—Dark rich purple.

Sherlock Holmes.—A distinct lilac blue shade.

Source de Feu.—Orange red, suffused yellow.

Souv. de Gustav Doazon.—Soft scarlet red.

Souv. de M. Silvent.—Another giant flower; bright velvety scarlet.

Sunlight.—Bright lemon yellow.

Sylvia.—Deep pink, tinting to flesh pink at center; large perfect form.

Tenor Alverez.—A grand autumn variety. Bronze red, striped and penciled ve'vety brown.

Torpille.—Very large, white, overlaid and striped red and plum.

Ulysses.—Very large; deep rich crimson.

Variabilis.—Varies from white to rich bronzy yellow at base of petal.

MOROCCO

68 TEE SD ATIELAS

DECORATIVE DAHLIA, MRS. J. GARDNER CASSATT

Virginia Maule.—Very large; white, delicately suffused shrimp pink.

Wm. Agnew.—Very large; dazzling crimson scarlet. Early and profuse b!oomer.
Yellow Colosse.—Very large; light or lemon yellow; a most remarkably free bloomer.
Yellow Duke.—Canary yellow, quilled petals; a giant flower on long stems.
Zeppelin.—Large extra fine; color light lilac.

BALL DAHLIAS

A. D. Livoni.—Clear, bright pink, quilled petals; the best pink show Dahlia.
Admiral Schley.—Rich garnet, tinting to carmine and white at tips of petals.
Agent.—Delicate, soft pink.

Arabella.—One of the loveliest; soft primrose, shaded and tipped rose.
Arthur Le Favour.—Very large; buff, striped dark red.

Caleb Powers.—Shell pink; large and fine.

Chas. Lanier.—Very large; golden yellow, shaded amber.

Chieftain.—Purplish lilac; large, distinct.

Claret Cup.—Rich claret, tipped gold.

Colonist.—Coral red, edged lighter; splendid form.

Daniel Cornish.—Fjne terra-cotta red.

David Johnson.—Fawn or salmon, shaded rose; quilled, fine.

Della Dorsheimer.—Large, soft shrimpping, quilled petals; long, slender stems
Dorothy Peacock.—The world’s best pink.

Dreers White.—A pure white of large size and formation of Grand Duke Alexis.
Dr. Keynes.—Buff, tipped red; fine.

Duchess of York.—Yellow, flushed salmon pink, edged red.
Elegans.—Bright rosy purple, tipped white, quilled petals.

Emily May.—Yellow, blotched bronzy red.

THE DAHETA.

BALL DAHLIA, A. D. LIVONI

Ethel Britton.—Blush white, edged rosy purple.

Ethel Maule.—A magnificent pure white, of largest size and fine form.
Fern-Leaved Beauty.—Rich red, tipped white, with fern-like foliage.
Frank Smith.—Rich maroon, tipped white.

George Rawlings.—Rich, velvety maroon.

Gold Crest.—Yellow, striped and blotched red.

Goldfinch.—Yellow and red.

Goldfinder.—Yellow, tipped red.

Gold Medal.—Brightest yellow, spotted and penciled vermilion
Goldsmith.—Yellow, edged and striped bright crimson; a magnificent flower.
Gov. Guild.—Very large; pure white with long, stiff stems; extra.
Gracchus.—Bright orange and buff.

Hannah.—Large; soft pink, tinting to cream center, with fern-like foliage and long stems.

Harry Keith.—Large; rosy purple.

Henry Walton.—Yellow, edged vermilion.

Isabel.—New and distinct; primrose, shading to buff, overlaid and tipped rose.
John Bennett.—Fine form; yellow, tipped bright red.

John Rawlings.—Rich crimson.

John Walker.—Splendid snow-white show Dahlia; perfect form and free bloomer
Keystone.—Pleasing lilac pink, penciled crimson; very fine.

Le Armour.—Very large; bright, lively pink on long, stiff stems; very fine.

Lucy Fawcett.—Very large; pale yellow, penciled carmine.

Marjorie.—Buff, tipped carmine; very fine.

Maud Fellows.—A delicately beautiful flower, soft pink, of splendid form
May Lomas.—White, suffused soft lavender, edged blue.

Merlin.—Very early; soft scarlet; fine.

Meteor.—Immense size; bright vermilion.

Miss Alice King.—<A splendid pure white.

Miss Browning.—Clear, rich, canary yellow, tipped white; beautiful and chaste
Miss F. M. Shearer.—A lovely variety; deep pink with light tips, giving it a soft, warm

effect.

69

70 THE DAHLIA.

Mme. H. Furtado.—Very large; pure white; a free bloomer, with long stems.

Mme. Von Tomme.—Very large; yellow and red.

Mrs. Fisher.—White, edged rose.

Mrs. Gladstone.—Soft, shell pink.

Mrs. Saunders.—Yellow, tipped white; large and fine.

Norma.—Yellow, shaded golden amber.

Octavia.—Yellow, shaded orange.

Paul Bert.—Immense scarlet-red flowers on very long stems.

Penelope.—White flaked, rosy lake; beautiful and chaste.

Perfection.—Very large; soft lilac.

Pink Swan.—A silvery rose pink, sport of white Swan.

Plesance.—Intense vermilion red; very large and fine.

Prince Bismarck.—Rich, velvety purple.

Princess Victoria.—The finest pure yellow show Dahlia. Clear, pure canary.

Queen Victoria.—Rich golden yellow.

Red Hussar.—Richest dazzling cardinal red. Best red show Dahlia for cutting.
Rose.—An exquisite ball Dahlia of full, regular form and a bright, lively carmine rose.
Ruby Queen.—Ruby red, richly shaded.

Souv. de Mme. Alfred Moreau.—Very large; cerise pink.

Storm King.—The earliest white show Dahlia; perfect form and extremely profuse bloomer.
Susan.—Soft blush pink; medium size, splendid form and free bloomer.

Tom Jones.—Cream yellow, edged mauve pink; especially fine.

Uncertainty.—Varies from blush pink to dark red, with all the intermedial variations.
Victor.—Fine, rich crimson.

Warrior.—Intense scarlet.

White Dandy.—A large snow-white Dahlia of perfect ball form on very long stems.
White Swan.—Large; pure white; reliable.

POMPON DAHLIAS

Adelaide.—Blush, edged lavender.

Adrienne.—Crimson, tipped scarlet.

Alewine.—White, suffused pink.

Arthur West.—Rich crimson.

Belle of Springfield.—Very small; soft red, sometimes tipped white.
Bob.—Yellow, edged scarlet.

Catherine.—Clear canary yellow.

Cheerfulness.—Old gold, tipped crimson.

Clarissa.—Pale primrose.

Crusoe.—White, heavily edged pink.

Daisy.—Pleasing shade of amber-salmon.

Elfin.—Soft, creamy white.

Fairy Queen.—Yellow, edged rose.

Girlie.—Pinkish mauve.

Glow.—Very fine; rich coral.

Guiding Star.—Pure white; serated petals.

Hedwig Pollig.—Very distinct; shades of red, tipped white.
Helen Lambert.—Clear yellow.

Klein Domitea.—Bright, golden terra-cotta. Very profuse.
Laddie.—Light crimson, edged rose.

Lassie.—Yellow, edged and tipped rose.

Lilian.—Primrose, edged pink.

Little Beauty.—Soft, silvery pink; closely quilled petals.
Little Frank.—Amber, shaded salmon.

Little Herman.—Cardinal red, tipped white.

Little Prince.—Crimson, tipped white.

Little Sweetheart.—Red, tipped white.
Madeline.—Primrose, edged rosy-purple.

Mars.—Very bright scarlet.

Neatness.—Salmon-pink

RE, DATTA.

POMPON DAHLIAS

Nerissa.—Soft rose-pink.

Phoebe.—Deep orange.

Raphael.—Darked maroon; quilled petals.

Rougiere Chauviere.—Crimson, pink and white; distinct.
San Toy.—White, heavily edged rosy carmine.
Seashell.—Soft, shell pink.

Snowclad.—The best pure white pompon.

Splendens Imbricata.—Brightest scarlet.

Star of the East.—Pure white; long stems.
Sunshine.—Richest vermilion-scarlet; splendid little flowers on long stems.
Tom.—Soft, creamy yellow.

Violet.—Pure white.

a |
bo

THE SOAR TAS

ONE TYPE OF PHONY DAHLIA

P/EONY DAHLIAS

America.—A beautiful Dahlia; pure shrimp-pink with golden suffusion; habit ideal.

Andrew Carnegie.—A fine, lively rose-pink.

Ant. Rivoire.—Very large; rich crimson; fine long stems.

Bayard.—Vivid orange-scarlet; veins and base yellow.

Berch Van Heenstede.—Primrose-yellow with rich, golden sheen; flowers of medium size; very free.
Cesar.—Large, clear canary-yellow.

Chatenay.—A splendid, soft carmine-rose shaded crimson; good, stiff stem
Duke Henry.—Large; bright crimson.

Dremont van Bystein.—Blue lilac.

Doctor A. Kuyper.—Orange.

wn

os)

THE DATETA: Te

Doctor Perry.—One of the darkest, a brilliant reddish-mahogany.

Geisha.—The most striking color combination; golden yellow, changing to bright scarlet at the center of the
petal and back to gold at the tip.

Gypsey Weaver.—A rich shade of bronzy-yellow with pointed, twisted petals.

Holman Hunt.—Very dark rich crimson; large and fine; one of the best.

H. J. Lovink.—Very large; lilac.

Ironmonger.—Very large size, with long, graceful stems; pale lavender, with a delicate suggestion of pink

throughout.

King Leopold.—Creamy yellow, shading to deep primrose.

Konigen Emma.— A charming shade of mallow or hollyhock-pink, the inner petals banded with gold.

Konigen Wilhelmina.—Immense fluffy flowers of pure white with yellow center.

Lady Norma.—Very large, well-formed flower; color soft salmon-pink.

Leo XIIT.—A deep canary-yellow, entirely distinct in form; large; very free flowering.

Lilac.—Color soft lilac; immense flowers, with long broad petals; a strong vigorous grower with long stems.

Landseer.—Very large; rich crimson, shaded maroon, with velvety sheen.

La Riante.—Bright lilac; very large, beautiful flowers.

Lord Milner.—Yellow, suffused crimson.

Louise Hogg.—A seedling of the celebrated Geisha, but considered by many a great improvement over that
variety. It is larger, a stronger grower, with darker foliage, and a more profuse bloomer. It is, how-
ever, entirely distinct from Geisha as the colors are softer and more subdued. A splendid companion
for that variety. Color is light yellow at the base of the petal, shading to soft red at the center, tipped
yellow. The flowers are immense, with long broad, twisted and incurved petals.

Lullingstone.—Very large; rich terra-cotta red; splendidly formed flower.

Madame Van Loon.—Orange.

Monarch.—A new American variety of enormous size, often 7 to 8 inches; rich crimson, shaded darker.

Mondscheibe.—Rich primrose yellow; very fine.

Mrs. Carter Lewis.—Pale lilac, suffused with rose.

Mrs. G. Gordon.—Very large; sulphur yellow, tinting lighter toward the tips.

Mrs. MceMundy.—Lilac mauve; long stems; very free.

Mrs. McKeller.—Terra-cotta, shaded salmon.

Mrs. Robt. Bates.—Pink-white on long stiff stems; early and profuse bloomer.

Mrs. Wm. Kerr.—See illustration, page 2. One of the finest; large, of beautiful twisted, irregular for-
mation; color rich cream, suffused pink, and overlaid carmine,

Paul Kruger.—Very large and fine; white suffused pink, shaded carmine.

Peace.—Pure white.

Peacock’s Black.—Jet black in the bud, softening to a maroon black as the flowers expand. A novel feature
is the center of the mature flower, which is also black instead of yellow as in other varieties.
Peacock’s Yellow.—Immense size, clear canary yellow, of splendid form and substance. Undoubtedly the

best clear yellow peony.

Phidias.—A lovely shade of salmon-pink; long, stiff stems.

Poinsettia.—Rich geranium lake, shading to carmine red at tips; distinctive type.

Porcupine.—WVhite, suffused and mottled Tyrian rose.

Rembrandt.—Dark yellow.

Salome.—Large and fine; a lovely shade of apricot.

South Pole.—An immense pure white flower of great substance and splendid form.

Selma.—Rose.

Tansboro.—Crimson and white; distinct.

74 THE DATIEDA.

BASKET CENTURY DAHLIAS

THE, DAHLIA.

N
un

NEW CENTURY DAHLIA, GLADYS

NEW CENTURY

Alice.—A superb pure white century with long stiff stems.

Anna Long.—Clear rosy pink, with white band running through each petal; sometimes solid pink.

Apple Blossom Century.—A giant form of the lovely Apple Blossom Single; rich apple blossom pink, with
soft pink zone around the yellow disc.

Autumn Century.—A great acquisition. The flowers are very large, with long, broad, slightly cupped and
pointed petals. The color blends from yellow at the base of petals to a rich golden bronze. Long stiff
stems and splendid keeper.

Barton.—Large, fine form and finish; color rich vermilion red.

Blush Century.—Very large; soft blush pink; height 4% feet.

Brilliant.—This is one of the brightest, being a fiery geranium scarlet.

Bronze Century.—A great acquisition; very large, golden yellow, suffused and overlaid salmon-scarlet, giving
it a rich bronzy effect.

Cardinal Century.—Very large; rich cardinal red; the best deep red. Height 5 feet.

Constant Century.—Like Twentieth Century, but holds its color, hence the name. Height 4 feet.

Congo.—Rich maroon, edged and flamed purple; very fine.

Contrast.—Vermilion tipped white, very effective.

Cream Century.—Color a rich cream which suggested the name. A fine companion to Mrs. Wendell Reber.

Crimson Century.—Rich crimson, rose band around disc. Height 4 feet.

76 TEE DATES

Delicatissima Century.—Very large, with long, pointed petals. Color white, flushed pink.

Dounie Century.—Richest vermilion-red. Height 4 feet.

Eleanor.—Very large, white, heavily tipped lavender.

Fringed Maroon Century.—Rich velvety maroon, with long fringed petals.

Fringed Twentieth Century.—The first of a new race, with cleft or serated petals. A great improvement of
Twentieth Century, much larger, brighter color, while the stems are long, slender and stiff. Color bright
rosy crimson, with lighter markings.

Garnet Century.—Rich garnet color, large; long, stiff «tems.

Geisha Century.—This is an intensified Mrs. Wendell Reber. The inner half of the petal is a rich yellow,
the outer half is an intensely rich scarlet. The Geisha colors, hence the name.

George Young.—An exquisite clear yellow century, very fine.

Gertrude.—An improved Twentieth Century, clear rosy crimson with white zone around the yellow disc,
and white tips.

Gigantea Alba Century.—Snow white, of immense size; beautiful form. Height 5 feet.

Gladys Century.—Center of petals rosy crimson, with rose-pink band on either side and white zone around
the yellow center.

Gloxinia.—A striking type of the Century Dahlia. Yellow zone around the golden disc; maroon band in
center of petal, with crimson margin and tipped white. A striking, pleasing color combination.

Golden Wave.—Soft golden yellow; a very profuse bloomer, large and fine.

Hazel Heiter.—Rich crimson, shaded with white tips and white zone around yellow center.

Iris Century.—Immense size; purple blotch on rosy lake ground. Height 5 feet.

Jack Harding.—Rich velvety maroon, with a glowing satin sheen.

James Weller.—A gorgeous Autumn shaded Century. Immense size, rich yellow shaded to golden coppery
bronze; long stems. A splendid exhibition and commercial variety.

Josephine.—The acme of perfection in snow-white. The flowers are very large, splendid regular form.

Lavender Century.—Immense size, splendid form; color soft lavender.

Lemon Century.—Clear lemon yellow edged lighter; large and fine, stiff stems.

Leone.—White flushed lavender; delicate and chaste.

Madeline.—Large and strikingly attractive, rose pink with white zone around the yellow disc.

Margaret Long.—Very large, soft pink suffused carmine.

Model Century.—Snow-white, very large, fine form, good substance, profuse bloomer on long stems.

Mrs. J. C. Hance Century.—Bright carmine-pink, with blush white disc. An exquisitely lovely flower, of
largest size, with long stems. /

Mrs. Joseph Lucas.—A combination of shades that we called autumn; it is a rich yellow overlaid bronzy-
scarlet, lightened, suffused and edged salmon-rose.

Mrs. Wendell Reber.—

Natalie.—Bright rosy crimson; large and distinct.

Nellie.—Very large, white edged pink; a lovely combination.

Orange Century.—Rich orange; fine large flowers on long stems.

Penciled Century.—Rose pink, shaded cerise, penciled crimson; distinct. Height 4 feet.

Poppy Century.—

Primrose Century.—Very delicate and chaste, profuse yellow, shading primrose pink.

Rose-Pink Century.—The largest and best deep pink; enormous flowers on long 3 feet stems.

Summer Girl.—Very large, clear ptire yellow, without tint or blemish; petals long and broad.

Sunset Century.—Rich yellow, tipped and shaded amber and bronze. Height 5 feet.

Twentieth Century.—

Vermilion Century.—Very large, brilliant vermilion, without shade or blemish.

White Century.—Immense size; snow-white. Height 5 feet.

White Giant.—Immense size, long broad rounded petals. Flowers are of great substance and borne on long,
stiff stems. Color, snow-white.

Wildfire Century.—Century size, with the brilliant, rich scarlet of the old wildfire.

Yellow Boy.—Clear canary yellow; fine formed large flowers on long stems.

DUPLEX DAHLIAS

Big Chief.—Rich crimson, margined maroon. A very strong, vigorous plant, with fern-like foliage.

Canary.—Pure canary-yellow of very largest size; an early, free and continuous bloomer.

Mme. J. Coissard.—The color effect is most distinct and charming; bright rosy crimson, with lighter mark-
ings, and a pure white zone around the yellow disc.

Sensation.—Vermilion-red, tipped snow-white; distinct and striking.

Souv. de Franz Liszt.—Very large; crimson, richly shaded with white markings.

Sunny Jim.—Bright yellow, blending with red, deepening toward the end, and ending with a yellow tip.

Variegated Liszt.—Dark Oriental red, with yellow tips and markings.

DE DARIIETA.

NEW SINGLE DAHLIA, “VELVET,” SHOWING SELECT TYPE
OF SINGLE DAHLIAS

SINGLE DAHLIAS (Old Fashioned)

Advance.—Richest crimson, shaded maroon; light zone around yellow center.

Alba Superba.—A beautiful pure white. Height 3% feet.

Ami Barillet.—The maroon of purple foliage Dahlia. Color richest garnet.

Apple Blossom.—Delicate pink, heavily tipped deep carmine-pink.

Blackbird.—Maroon, shaded black, with red spot at base of each petal.

Danish Cross.—Scarlet, with white band running through each petal; very distinct.
Florabunda.—Soft lavender, with deep lavender zone around the yellow center.
Gaillardia.—Golden yellow, with a broad band of red around the yellow center.
Hilda.—Carmine-pink with zone of white suffused pink around the yellow center.

Mary.—An ideal single; clear, soft pink.

Praxitelles.—Richest maroon, tipped white; always true to type; distinct and effective.
Rantendelein.—Color pure white; each petal has a narrow margin of deep crimson on each side.
Rebecca Mayhew.—An absolutely perfect single white

Ruth.—Pure white, margined yellow.

Sardanopol.—Rich scarlet, with band of orange through the center of each petal.

St. George.—The best clear canary-yellow single Dahlia.

St. George Improved.
Velvet.—Velvety maroon, with red marking at base of each petal.

White Cross.—Soft rosy lake with a pure white stripe running through the center of each petal.

Flowers clear canary-yellow and twice the size of St. George, on longer stems.

EES IDAVEUIETA®

|

COLLECTION OF 12 COLLARETTE DAHLIAS

THE DARILIA. 79

COLELARET TE DAHLIAS

This uniquely distinct class or type is rapidly gaining in popularity. The flowers are
single with a row of smaller or collar petals around the center. These collar petals are gen-
erally distinct in color from the rest of the flower.

Airdale.—Garnet, shaded maroon flamed crimson, yellow base; crimson, maroon tipped white collar.

Albert Maumene.—vVelvety crimson-purple, margined white, collarette white.

Allston.—Rich crimson; crimson and white collar.

Altro.—Crimson edged white; collar white, flushed crimson.

Anoka.—Large crimson and white, with white collar.

Arbeka.—Dark rich garnet; white suffused garnet collar.

Arden.—Rich bronzy red, collar yellow and red.

Atglen.—Rich maroon, flamed crimson; crimson and white collar,

Autumn.—Yellow, shading to bronzy red; rich yellow collar.

Bajadere.—Dark velvety crimson, banded maroon; collarette same shading.

Banker.—Rich scarlet; collar scarlet tipped yellow.

Belmont.—Rosy crimson tinting white at tip, and a white zone around center; collar white suffused rose.

Burg Siefurch.—Velvety brown, collarette red tipped light.

Carlton.—Bright garnet; garnet and white collar.

Catlin.—Scarlet tipped yellow; yellow suffused scarlet collar.

Chabanne.—Yellow and coral red; striking.

Chalfont.—Carmine tipped white; white collar, very effective.

Century.—A beautiful collarette of the Twentieth Century colors; crimson tinting to pink with white tips
and white zone; crimson and white collar.

Countess Hardegg.—Carmine rose, white collar.

Comte. Chermeteff.—Cream suffused red; light collar.

Crown Princess Charlotte.—Very large and distinct; bright chestnut red, with long, yellow collar.

Diadem.—Large, brilliant carmine rose; collar white with carmine markings.

Diamant.—Beautiful shade, velvety violet, light rose collar.

Diomedes.—Rose bordered white; white collar.

Dorian.—Crimson shaded maroon; crimson and white collar.

Drayton.—Very large, rich maroon, with white collar.

Dr. Gerard.—Rosy-purple, bordered and splashed white; white collar.

Duch. M. Barbo.—Yellow suffused red.

Elgrave.—Duplex collarette. Large pointed petals, rich maroon; collar maroon tipped white.

Exposition de Lyon.—Beautiful red; white collar.

Fayette.—Very effective, it being a duplex collarette; rich scarlet with bright yellow collars.

Henri Farman.—Yellow blotched red; cream collarette.

Innovation.—This is entirely distinct, as it is double with full high center when first opening. The largest of
all, most attractive and effective. Color rich mauve with crimson base; carmine lavender collar petals.

Johannesfeur.—Bright red; yellow collarette.

Jules Buyessens.—Rose; white collar.

Jupiter.—Bright yellow, shaded red; straw-colored collarette.

Lanark.—Crimson; collar white suffused carmine.

Leitstein.—Very dark crimson; white collarette.

Lindsay.—An exquisite variety. Rosy crimson, white tip and white zone; with white flushed crimson collar.

Leuchtfeur.—Golden yellow, tinged with orange-red; sulphur-yellow collarette.

Maurice Revoir.—Rich crimson-maroon; white collarette.

Merion.—Yellow and scarlet. The “Geisha” collarette.

Merton.—Yellow suffused scarlet; clear yellow collar.

Merville de Lyon.—Yellow splashed red, yellow collarette.

M. Empain.—Red, with yellow collar.

Mme. Claessens.—Red, with yellow collar.

Mme. Pile.—Red with citron-yellow tips; long white and yellow collarette.

Mme. E. Wauters.—Crimson tipped gold, yellow base, with yellow collarette.

Mme. F. G. Bruant.—Rich velvety maroon, with white collarette; large and fine.

Mme. L. Viger.—Bright crimson pointed petals; white collar.

Mons. Bourguignon.—Wine red; buff collarette.

Mons. L. Ferard.—Rich rosy crimson, edged and marked white; very large collar of same color.

80 THE, DATTA.

Nantick.—Velvety maroon; maroon and white collar.

Norman.—Rosy crimson, white collar.

Orphee.—Bright red, tipped yellow; orange collar.

Prince Carnival.— White margined dark red; white collar.

Prince de Venosa.—Beautiful shade of purple; white collar.

Prince Galitzine.—White suffused pink; white collar.

Princess Louise.—Carmine and white.

Purity.—Snow white; snow white collar.

Radlyn.—Soft, clear pink; collar same color.

Radnor.—Large, white tips and base with rosy purple blotch in center; collar white flushed crimson.
Regularity.—Very large and fine; scarlet with white collar.

Selwin.—Scarlet; with yellow collar.

Souv. de Bernadeau.—Beautiful shade of old rose; cream collar; very distinct.
Turpin.—Maroon, margined ruby wine; ruby red, tipped white collar.
Valdora.—Rosy crimson, yellow base, purple tip; collar yellow, tipped crimson.
Walton.—Garnet; yellow and garnet collar.

Warnick.—Garnet shaded maroon; garnet and yellow collar.

Wilford.—Soft carmine red, tipped purple; collar vellow, tipped red.
Winona.—Vivid crimson, tipped purple; crimson collar.

NEW ANEMONE OR PIN-CUSHION DAHLIAS. A UNIQUELY
DISTINCTIVE NEW TYPE THAT HAS GREAT
POSSIBILITIES FOR DECORATIVE
PURPOSES

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