The Old Corner Book Store, Inc. Boston, • Mass. THE DAYS OF A MAN VOLUME Two 1900-1921 DAVID STARR JORDAN, IQ2I From portrait by E. Spencer Macky. Presented to Stanford University by Mrs. Jordan THE DAYS OF A MAN BEING MEMORIES OF A NATURALIST, TEACHER AND MINOR PROPHET OF DEMOCRACY BY DAVID STARR JORDAN ILLUSTRATED VOLUME Two 1900-1921 Jungle and town and reef and sea, I have loved God's earth and God's earth loved me, Take it for all in all! Yonkers-on-Hudson, New York WORLD BOOK COMPANY 1922 WORLD BOOK COMPANY THE HOUSE OF APPLIED KNOWLEDGE Established 1905 by Caspar W. Hodgson YONKERS-ON-HUDSON, NEW YORK 2126 PRAIRIE AVENUE, CHICAGO By way of advancing their ideal of service, which is expressed in the motto "Books that apply the world's knowledge to the world's needs," the publishers present The Days of a Man, by David Starr Jordan. In these memoirs the reader will find not only the fascinating story of an active life of human service, but evidences of a philosophy that embodies a real science of living. Dr. Jor- dan is a master hand at adapting scientific knowledge to the needs of men, and in these pages he reveals much of his secret of fur- thering human happiness and enriching life JDM: 1-1 Copyright 1922 by World Book Company Copyright in Great Britain All rights reserved CONTENTS BOOK FOUR (1900-1906) PAGE CHAPTER TWENTY-SIX i 1. Association of American Universities — Member- ship — Eliot on medievalism — Uninformed criticism 2. Fishing in Japan — Annexation of Hawaii — The Nuuanu Pali — • First impressions — Stan- ford helpers — Japanese students in America — Effect of gentlemen's agreement — Abe's adven- tures— Otaki — A social call — Dinner a la Japonaise — High standards — Spooner's career — Cormorant fishing — A general feast — The ancient fort a negligible barrier — Kikuchi and Mitsukuri — Dinner at the Maple Club --Odd protective tariffs — Ito and Yamagata — Base- ball in Japan 3. Picture Island — Ebisu, the fisher god — Dai- koku, another luck god — Friendliness — At night — The tea house — O-Cho-San's leave- taking — Numazu — Fujiyama revealed — Tsu- ruga — Godship no sinecure! — In Nagasaki — Formalin replaces alcohol — Mogi — O-Mime- San — English eccentricities — A superb trip — Unzen 4. The lady repents — Too cordially welcomed ! — Putnam Weale — • The salt of death — Berlin intrigue — The Kaiser's Huns — Prussian atrocities — Stealing an observatory — Various outrages — The Hoover cow — Misplaced confidence — Romantic militarism — A self- made general — "The Valor of Ignorance" The "Old Buddha's" trick 5. Kawatana — Watches of the night — Kurume and Funayado — Beautiful Miyajima — Hiro- / 7 Contents PAGE shima — Ebisu returns — Abbott — Kobe speaks English — Osaka — Wakayama — The Bay of Waka — 'A disconsolate giant — A little lady — Physical handicaps — Our deferential young friend — Garden of rest CHAPTER TWENTY-SEVEN 44 1. Otaki replaces Abe — Dr. Schneder -- Unac- customed ceremony — A study of the "hidden hills" — A strange fish -- Thrifty monkeys — "Fauna Japonica" — Count Uesugi — The earthquake at Ichinoseki — The Tokaido - Morioka — Morioka red iron — Waste of talent — Japanese psychology — The grip of caste -- Gracious hospitality 2. Mutsu and the Kitakami — • Vagrant souls - "Fool lacquer" — Aomori City- - "Blackiston's Line" -Hakodate — A big rock-pool catch — Mororan — An afternoon off — Edomo — The chief and his family — Official welcome — My deficiencies revealed — Ainu women — The Ainu race — Yamato invaders — Ainu resist- ance— A difficult problem 3. Crowded sea-wrack — A new industry — Luscious fruits - - Agriculture practically limited to rice — Local flora — " Manners makyth man" — Japanese humor — Poor economy — The sage of Sendai — Our helping hand — The Shimonoseki affair — Grant at Nikko — Sendai generosity 4. "Cussing on the up grades" — Off for the heights — Sacred Nantai-san — The author as botanist — Kegon-no-taki and Lake Chuzenji - Lacy Ryuzu — A flowery plain - - Yumoto and its surroundings — Riotous ornament — Social strategy 5. Addressing the teachers of Utsunomiya — Yokosuka — My strange preference — • Kuri- hama "birds" — Perry at Kurihama - - Not : vi 3 Contents PAGE a bee — Holiday throngs — A little colloquy — Typical traits — Certain historic differences — Native honesty — Breaking the record ! - Kuma Aoki — We start for Okinose - - Beauti- ful pools on Joga — "Old Ladies' Homes" — The incomparable fisherman — Service the final end of training — An exquisite gift - - Some Japanese wives — Punctilio resolved — lijima — Yoshimi — Fukukita — Goodby to Japan CHAPTER TWENTY-EIGHT 83 1. A child of great promise 2. Stanford's second "Stone Age" — Millions to play with — Investigation of Hawaiian fisheries — Hudson's fine work — The beginning of a romance — Many courtesies — Honolulu's mu- seum and aquarium — A huge lake of hard- ened lava — Mauna Loa — Mauna Kea — Giant ferns - - Henshaw and the birds - - Per- force a settler — Bewildering subspecies — Biological friction — Hawaiian fishes — Tropi- cal but distinct — Influence of ocean currents — The great equatorial stream — Further ex- plorations 3. A critical transition — The local aristocracy — Other racial groups — An obvious situation — Democracy grafted on racial oligarchy CHAPTER TWENTY-NINE 98 i. To the South Seas — Verdant isles — A veritable fairyland — Apia on Upolu — Pago Pago on Tutuila — A marvelous harbor — Conventional politics — A surprised "national" — Adjust- ment by arbitration --Our merry assistants — Weird warning — The Adlers fate — The "Bush" — Stevenson's pal — Moors' romantic career — Vailima — Prussian officialism — "Miss Jessie" meets the griffin — Tusitala's tomb — The trail to Lanuto — A mountain C vii 3 Contents PAGE fernery — I attend a luau — Our call on Mata'- afa — The taupou's duty — Kava making — Kava names — Love refuses to fulfill the Law — Lack of incentives for thrift — "Mizhonery" — A tragic feud — "Lautverschiebung" in the South Seas — Common origin — Pulimatu and selini 2. Vaiula's alarm — The reef at Apia — Afele and his Coral ^ueen — The Morays — Coats of many colors — Protective hues — An agile blenny — The amphibious skippy — Flying fish — Merita's paintings 3. Back to Pago Pago- — A detestable disease — Nu'uli — The picturesque crew — Mighty reef combers — The spill • — I touch bottom — Fita-fitas unperturbed - — Hauled into the skiff — Aboard the launch • — The ensign's predica- ment — Sa'laotoga's letter - — A few lines of Samoan — Poisonous fishes — Vicious mosqui- toes— Official lack of etiquette tempered by justice and consideration — Roosevelt's prompt response — A question of "self-determination" — Sampson-Schley controversy — A last view 4. The Stanford board of trustees — Actual organ- ization— "Yale plan'* not acceptable — Davis, Leib, and Hopkins — The Hopkins Marine Station — The doubtful assistant — The cordial director — The founder's tact CHAPTER THIRTY 133 1. My library of Zoology — Other donations — Fishery survey of Alaska — Adjustment of breeds to river — Hell's Gate catastrophe - - Passing of "big year" — Scouring Puget Sound — Wrangel Island and the sleeper sharks — Kern County sharks - - Dolly Vardens by the score — Lake Jordan — Callbreath's experiment 2. From Skagway to Caribou Crossing — Discovery of gold by Skookum Jim — Fitting house to C viii 3 Contents PAGE carpet — Argonauts of the White Pass — Break- ing ice and rapids — Soapy Smith and the avenger — Tragic relics — Perfect protection — The grayling, "flower of fishes" — Bishop Bompas - An exchange of bishops — Poet blood — The rule of law — Carrie Nation in argument — Steven- son Fellowship — Jonson replaces R. L. S. 3. A French viewpoint — "The Strength of Being Clean" — Justice to one's afterself — Alcohol a social menace — General social hygiene — Fighting the red plague — Great scientists — Tribute to Young — "Out of the Church" With Roosevelt in Texas— '"The Square Deal" — A "man of the world"? 4. Empty victories — Uninformed populace — Witte and the Tsar — Treaty finally concluded CHAPTER THIRTY-ONE 1 56 1. Distress intensified — Marked characteristics - Unusual devotion — Newcomer's sonnet 2. Europe again — Down the Moselle and across to Dauphiny — Glorious Chamonix — Miirren and Berne — Motoring — Some of the Gren- villes — "Collecting" cathedrals — Judicial hu- mor— End of a senseless feud — "Danger ahead" — Eclipse of the sun 3. "Guide to the Study of Fishes" — Henry Holt • — Standing incentives to war — Sleepless watch- dogs — Passing of Don Luis — From Franklin to Brooks CHAPTER THIRTY-TWO . 168 i. American Philosophical Society — Catastrophic change — Chaos in the home — Damage at En- cina Hall — One fatality — At Roble — Death of a faithful servant — Enormous losses — Cost of reconstruction — Plans for reorganization — Future of privately endowed institutions — An indignant Chinese — Agassiz "in the concrete" c ix 3 Contents PAGf- — Philosophical interest — Smithsonian offer — Other proposals declined — Classes disbanded — Camping out — Fatal coincidences — Living on faith — Greely and Funston — A distracted bird — A wedding midst the ruins — An aston- ished visitor 2. Fashions in temblors — Earthquake rifts — From Mendocino to San Benito — Rift of 1868 — Lava dykes — Shock instantaneous for 192 miles — Surface manifestations — Tomales Bay — Olema — Bolinas to San Andreas Valley — Por- tola — Buried men — End of the rift — An "Oriental school" — Dishonest tactics — Roose- velt's warning resented 3. Carnegie Foundation for the Improvement of Teaching — Pritchett's proposal — Funds ade- quate — From pension to insurance — Age limit at Stanford — Improvement of English orthography — Expecting too much — Futile humor — American game derived from Rugby with marked differences — Professional coaches — Temporary prohibition of American game — Battle, not sport BOOK FIVE (1907-1914) CHAPTER THIRTY-THREE 199 1. A call to Australia — Marie Hall — Chess on the Moana — A magic circle — A traveled "wall- eye"— Sharks and sharks — Making merry — Suva, capital of Fiji - - Fijians — Quoy's paint- ing— Marine illusions 2. Ruin wrought by cactus — Other disastrous im- migrants - - Books about Australia — Sydney acquaintances David — Holme — Filling vacancies in Australia — Rutherford — Lawless- ness at Capping — Degrees for women — Cheer- ful Capping - - Irreverence not uncommon - Rugby — The Victoria game — Track meets and tea C x 3 Contents PAGE 3. Colleagues in Ichthyology — Sale of bogus degrees — "The Japanese menace" — Mis- guided patriotism - - Botany Bay — Showy blossoms — Sydney Harbor — Fine merinos — In time of drought 4. Essentials overlooked - - The McConnels and Edward Jordan CHAPTER THIRTY-FOUR 218 1. Baldwin Spencer — Welton Stanford — Endow- ment for Psychology — Coover and the Thomas Welton Stanford Fellowship — Foundation of the Workingmen's College - - Giant eucalyptus — Blacks' Spur forest — Australian parrots — The laughing jackass — Not a poultry yard — Primi- tive mammals — A practical idealist --At Adelaide 2. English genius transplanted — Away from "home" —Huge unoccupied areas — Lack of variety in Australia — Homogeneous population and somber color — • Few "self-starters" — The irreverent Sydney Bulletin — "Government pays" 3. Wellington — Sir Robert Stout — University of New Zealand — "Examining" and "teaching" universities — Too much examination cheapens scholarship — Undue sensitiveness — Maclaurin — Rutherford again, and Brown — The Ferry — Canterbury pioneers - - Brown trout and Loch Leven essentially the same — New Zea- land forests — • Pelorus Jack 4. Imaginary returns — A free pass — Wanganui — Auckland — Fear of capitalism — A noble tree — Rotorua — The charm of New Zealand — Weakness a social menace — Seddon — The coddling-moth — American enterprise 5. An International Commission of Zoology — Prob- lems of zoological nomenclature — The "first reviser" compromise — Boston code of nomen- clature— The Jordan Committee — Life too Contents PAGE short — Orthogenesis — Law of Vertebrae — — Northern fishes develop more segments — — Quaint diversions — Gains and losses CHAPTER THIRTY-FIVE 252 1. "Ei, ei, das Bier sehr mundet mir" — A dry town — The carven tables — A courageous com- mittee — Rigid ruling — Meyer now strong for milk shake — Self-government initiated — Debt to Clark 2. International Fisheries Commission — Bound- ary waters — Rathbun's work — Truly inter- national — First setback — Prince succeeds Bastedo — Knox succeeds Root — The Maine law — Grand Menan — The Thousand Islands — To Gainesville — A rich feeding ground — The creeping pound nets — A fine discovery — Lake Huron — Sault Ste. Marie — Lake Supe- rior — Rainy River and Lake of the Woods — Unprotected sturgeon — Kenora — Winnipeg — The gold eye — A boundless wheat field — Asul- kan Glacier — Selous — Salmon unequally dis- tributed — In Puget Sound — Nass River and the steelhead — Prince Rupert — Father Hogan — Clan MacDonald and " Black Jack" — Speedy reform — First Legaie 3. Prince and Gisborne — Bryce and Muir — Fatal delay — Appeals by constituents — Spring-Rice — Not a lobbyist — Michigan fishery laws — Treaties national only — Unequal enforcement of law — Study of Saginaw Bay — "My Lady of the Snows" — The sane Canadian boundary — "Mild Reservations" — Puget Sound — Canada's refusal to confirm — Present state of boundary fisheries — A valid objection — Staple species — Important localities — Salmonoid fishes of the Great Lakes — A most useful volume — Adee — Provincialism — What is a "Western" man? — A new type of hearer — Parental anxiety C xii 3 Contents PAGE 4. The ideal school of medicine — Proprietary medical college — Tolland and Cooper — Trans- fer to Stanford — Courses of study — Faculty — Dedication of Lane Library of Medicine CHAPTER THIRTY-SIX 284 1. The Darwin Centennial — Moritz Wagner - "Raumliche Sonderung" • — Four nineteenth- century leaders — Darwin and Lincoln — Cell structure and cell function — Natural selection — Return to Darwin — Back to Indiana — Krehbiel — Young liberals — Crane — A strange change 2. National Peace Congress — Ginn and Mead — New policy — Last cost of war — Jane Addams — Fannie Fern Andrews 3. The Jordan Club — McNair lectures — Prag- matism — Balfour and truth — Haeckel's dog- matism — Monism not a basis for science — Source of all knowledge • — Fish Commissioner for California — • Eugenics Commission — Large service to science — At Arden — Endowment of the Eugenics Commission — 'Journal of Heredity 4. World Congresses — Free Christianity at Berlin — "War and Manhood" in the Kaiser's armory — I "also spoke" — Great and near-great — Wilhelm Forster — Eucken both moralist and militarist — • A German view • — Haeckel — An academic gibe 5. At Gratz — My social standing — A polyglot commission — • Supper al fresco — Tiresome pedantry — The green land of Styria — A "jolly-up" — Fried and the Friedenswarte — Bertha von Siittner — " Waffen Nieder! " - - A congress never held — Steindachner — A scholar's fate CHAPTER THIRTY-SEVEN 312 i. Meran to Piz Languard — Magenta — Novara — Selective breeding of cretins — Cause of cretin- xiii Contents PAGE ism — "No more of them" — Carcassonne — "I never went to Carcassonne" — Our Lady of Lourdes — The last hope — "Guerie!" — Cirque de Gavarnie and the Pyrenees — "Main Street" overseas 2. Norman Angell — "The Great Illusion" — A masterful teacher — Sometime a Californian — Clear-cut analysis • — Ruyssen and Moch — Riviere — Majerieux — Dumas — Passy Scott and Upson — Buisson — D'Estournelles de Constant — Hilton and Shelton — Seeck — Reversal of selection — Waterloo — La Fontaine — Otlet, Lange, and Rossignol — Geddes 3. The Red House, Hornton Street — Hobson and Brunner — Abbotsholme — The Cotswolds — Tintern Abbey - - Swansea passes — Hoover at the wheel — Tring Museum — With Osier — The negro problem • — My hopeful view — Stead — Men worth knowing — The Nation staff — Weardale — Reform of the Peerage 4. Arming for peace and war — The root of war — The commission lapses — Efforts for a world court — Practical arbitration — Elihu Root — Wasted effort — Scott — Endowment for peace 5. Champ Clark on Wilson - - A notable address — Campaigns for equal suffrage — Taking respon- sibility seriously — The absentee vote — Open primary — Jefferson — The conduct of life — Beacon Booklets — Encina conferences CHAPTER THIRTY-EIGHT 349 1. Off for Japan once more — At Honolulu — An international courtesy — Eager reporters — A too generous program — Tea with the Asanos — Kuma — Katsura Cabinet — Saionji Ministry — A Stanford dinner — The Omoris - 'Yurin En" — Huggins 2. An embarrassing situation — Nikko revisited — Jizos hard to count — Campaign horses — Twice- r. xiv 1 Contents PAGE told tales — Count Okuma - - The Countess — Bishop Harris -- Lectures in Tokyo — Ume Tsuda — A useful warning -- Misfits in inter- pretation — Quick to catch a joke - - Unfair advantage — The two Pucks — Not unfriendly cartoons — "Peace Medicine" 3. Sendai for a second time-- Hospitality without stint — The Ozaki dinner — The Ozakis them- selves — The Ishii banquet - - Kaneko, Kato, and Zumoto — Shibusawa — The Shibusawa lunch- eon--An interesting conference — Uneducated emigrants an obstacle — Manchurian railway - Press perversions — Terauchi — Austerity and mirth — A feudal tragedy — Morinobu's life of lyeyasu — The Okuma luncheon — Iwasaki - Mitsu Bishi Club — A talented hostess - - Im- proved status of women 4. The Emperor — The Empress — A beautiful bauble — Fruitful discussions — Ichihashi returns to Stanford — • The Yamamoto tea - At Zojoji temple — Frederick Starr -- Prince Tokugawa — Academic dinners — A bad exemplar — Tea with Okura — • Moon fete — Bankers' Association dinner — Mrs. Apcar — Owston the naturalist — Tanaka — Ishikawa at Bergen — No Michel Sars CHAPTER THIRTY-NINE 381 1. Japanese railways — Comfortable security — Nagoya — The " H.C.L." — A great compliment — • At Kyoto — Kyoto's glories — Good humor — At Kobe — Not pioneers - - Robert Young 2. The Land of Morning Calm — Seoul - - Seoul Y. M. C. A. — The Korean tongue — The Yama- gata dinner — Supper in native style — Katha- rine Wambold — The quaint old city — Yang Ban — Leopard eyes in Japanese art — Fishes of Korea — Curious reasoning — Good and bad in Japanese occupation — The "squeeze" -A C xv 3 Contents PAGE Korean school — Korean temperament — De- jected nobility — Biological cause of Korea's failure as a nation 3. Uji and Otsu — Delightful haven — Lord li's dinner service — Yokohama Boy Scouts — Fare- well functions — Denison — More intimate courtesies — Generous friendliness • Sooth- sayer Takashima 4. Dark regions unexplored — Heizvas account — Pro-Japanese — Anti-Japanese • • Centralized power obstructive — Minhon — Direction, not status — China again in convulsion — Wilder's gift — At the San Francisco customs CHAPTER FORTY 407 1. Pleasant reunions — Booker Washington and Du Bois — Tuskegee Institute — At Tulane — Magdalena Bay scare — Lodge Resolution — A slander revived — War scares and conscription — Sandoval's statement — D'Estournelles de Constant — Macdonald — Ida Tarbell — Blanchard — Lutoslavski — The Bahai — Gren- fell 2. Germany and the next war — Der Staat - - Three fallacies — Social Darwinism not Darwinian 3. A toast to Roosevelt — Progressive revolt — La Follette — An honor declined — Roosevelt's candidacy — • In Africa and Europe — Military pomp — The steam roller — A political handi- cap — Bitter defeat 4. A eugenic survey - - Krehbiel and Hill in Georgia — Harvey Jordan — • Battle of Fredericksburg - Desolation of the plantation counties — Conway — Andrew Johnson — Salem Church Chancellorsville - - Death of Jackson - - Spott- sylvania Court House — The Bloody Angle — Seven miles of wounded — A week of horror 5. At Staunton — General Anderson - - McNeal — • Appomattox Court House — The last shot — Contents PAGE The Chickahominy — Cold Harbor - - Captain McCabe — Petersburg — At Raleigh — Judge Clark — Tait - - In the blue-grass region - Results of the Civil War — Sherman - - Summing up CHAPTER FORTY-ONE 441 1. At Harvard - - Burton - - Borah —"What Shall We Say?" — At Ciudad Juarez-- A squalid conflict - - An impossible task - - Mexicali — A gracious memorial - - Return to first love 2. Anti-Japanese agitation — Japanese in Hawaii — The gentlemen's agreement - - Florin - Bryan at Sacramento - - Effect on Japanese politics — Zumoto's reprimand — Guarding the frontier 3. Brownell - -The playwright's dilemma - National Editorial Service -- "What of the Nation ? " — Morocco - - The Big D's - - Bankers and shipping trusts for peace 4. A resourceful adviser — My new relation - President Branner — A dazed audience CHAPTER FORTY-TWO 460 1. The Red House again- -The Eugenics Educa- tion Society — An unexpected argument - Peace organizations - - Freedom of the seas — Too busy for hospitality — Charles Wagner - Noble spirits - - Notable humanism - - Gloomy close to a luminous life 2. Lawrence Irving - - Ponsonby - - Emily Hob- house — 'Olive Schreiner — No nullification of crime — Leonard Hobhouse - - Fels - - Kropot- kin — A charming Californian - - A consistent journal — A breezy diplomat — Lima 3. Dickinson, Wallas, and Russell — Museum ex- perts -- Geikie and Saleeby — National Welfare Association — Unwin and Gardiner — Welby - C xv" 3 Contents PAGE Brailsford — Buxton — Ferris — Wasted talent — Ramsay McDonald — Trevelyan — Mrs. Snowden — Neilson 4. Lloyd George's "malice" -A weary candidate — Westminster — Leonard Courtney — Saga- cious epigrams - - Asquith — Lloyd George — Grey — Churchill — Cecil — Carson's back fire — Coalitions versus principles — Hoover's opinions 5. A half century of loss — Jordan in Devon — In Dartmoor — Cold hearthstones - - Deandon and Sir William — Good maxims — Jordan migration — Some American Jordans — A missing link — Hall's Croft, Stratford — A delightful surprise CHAPTER FORTY-THREE 492 i. A congress of schoolmen — Teachers in distress — A primer of democracy — Collapse of "blood and iron" — Han-sur-Lesse — Strayed fishes — Sedan --Ghastly reminders 2. The Hague Peace Conference — Korff - - The Slaydens and Schlumbergers — Woerden — • French against Dutch --Gobat — Giesswein — A superb work of art — Dollo — Napoleon in Hell 3. Guerard — An admirable work -- Growing re- sentment — Demand for home rule — Metz — Interviewing editors -- Lorraine one with Alsace — Boll — Mandel - - At Colmar — Wetterle — Oncle Hansi — "Story of Alsace" — "My Village" — Near-treason — Futile gestures — A difficult task — Zislin — Two views of ownership — A study in conquest — Gross brutalities — New embarrassments CHAPTER FORTY-FOUR S12 i. On the Wallensee - - Le Touquet — "Quand Meme" — "Mireille" — Morel — Sieper — Warden xviii ] Contents PAGE 2. Envious Kleinbasel — The little land of Liech- tenstein— Worthy efforts --John Mez - - The law of nations - - Nippold - - Nippold's warnings - Lammasch - - Leading German pacifists - Noble plea of a French orator-- A German Liberal 3. Activity in emigration - - Arco - - Lovely Dal- matia -- A blend of beauty - - Delightful excur- sions — The olive and the olive fly - - Cattaro - Tiny Cettinje - - An independent race - - A world beyond - - Hard to resist - - An idle demonstra- tion -- Scant accommodations — A pleasant ren- counter — A friend of Bulgaria - - Some tribes of Albania - - Known by his fez --Albanian ethics — The vendetta - - Trust in princes — Mag- nificent views CHAPTER FORTY-FIVE 535 1. A brave disciple --At Wiesbaden-- A true in- dictment - - Unexpected reaction — Weddegen - Silent citizenship - - Hall of Echoes - - The historic Schwann - - De Neufville - - Forceful women — Social Darwinism in action - - Schiick- ing — The marcke-route press 2. Graham — Van Wyck Brooks -- Oppenheim - Poulton--Sir Oliver Lodge -- Nice points of language — Graham Kerr- 'Tusitala in Samoa" - Sir Daniel - - A noted bookman — Donaldson of St. Andrews - - With the Fergussons — A wel- come reunion - - Dundee slums — Arthur Thom- son — Beaten paths to education - - Manchester and its Guardian — The Norman Angell Society - Charles Rowley — Brandes — Liverpool - Herringham and the University of London — Kate Stevens 3. Parson Umfrid — Munich - - Friends from home — Quidde and Caligula - - The glory that was Greece — Approach of war — Schemes of Pan- germany — Military necessities — A too favored land — France as a vassal of Prussia C Contents PAGE CHAPTER FORTY-SIX 557 1. Genoa and the Sunset Shore — La Grande Cor- niche — Eze and La Turbie — Monte Carlo, Monaco — Hyeres — Frejus — The golden cornice of the Esterel — Cannes — On the Kleist to Colombo — Koerner — Naples — Scylla and Charybdis — Port Said — The Red Sea — Djidda — Aden — Somaliland — Kandy — Col- lecting sea snails — A marvel of plant growth - A marvel of credulity — Not to be shaken off — University of Perth — Australian Blacks 2. Revisiting Welton Stanford — In the Australian Alps — Melbourne friends — Absent colleagues — Baseless fear — A heroic figure — The Ander- sons of Sydney — National characteristics — A waterspout --At the Pyramids — Nostalgia CHAPTER FORTY-SEVEN 572 1. Holman - - In Croatia — The Iron Gate - Turnu-Severin, Samovet, and Plevna — Mark- ham - - Scholarship and orthodoxy — Sofia — Prophets not without honor — The Bulgarian parliament — Malinoff — Bulgaria's evil genius - Radoslavoff — Robert College graduates — The first Balkan war — Bulgarian blunders — • A degree of palliation — Markham's plan 2. Good advice not officially heeded — A touching appreciation — FurnajiefFs misadventures — Queen Eleanora — The queen's purposes — Hard luck — Carmen Sylva — Dobruja and Ka- vala — Bulgarian sour milk — Vatralsky — >A scholar's table — Local urge for federation 3. The queen's automobile — In Samokov — >A disappointed host — War ravages — • Dzumaia — Turkish graveyards — The lilac at home — Sandansky and Miss Stone — Petritch — • An un- happy community — Powerlessness of great powers — A lost American — An irate officer — The Bistritza — Tyranny of the frontier Contents PAGE CHAPTER FORTY-EIGHT 594 1. A certificate of character- - Raikovska -- A truthful proverb — Legitimate doubts — Lot of the soldier-- A suggestive incident — Looking "pleasant" - Our enthusiastic friend — A state carriage-- Atrocities at Sidero Castro -- Primi- tive accommodations — The donkey and the camel train — • The lot of the refugee - - Easily won gratitude - - Enthusiastically American — "Thessalonike" — Albanians in Thrace — Refu- . gees from Thrace — Race evictions — John Henry House-- A pest-ridden station 2. Kavala — Its Roman aqueduct-- A native ex- quisite — Certain extenuations — The old story of enforced order - - Dedeagatsch — Two ways of thinking — Robert College — Panaretoff — Perils of chemical formulas - - Woman's College - Magnificence and dirt — The fate of the dogs - Morgenthau - - Creating public opinion - - The New Turks 3. Tcheraz — San Stefano and Berlin — Smyrna — A dream of the eyes - - In Athens - - Patras to Naples — A haven of refuge - - Unwelcome visions — Avignon and Les Baux CHAPTER FORTY-NINE 615 1. An official conference — Need of immune journalism - - Richet - - Junkets in Britain - AngelPs summer school — The incomparable Chesterton 2. Dublin - - Plunkett and Russell — Effect of half measures - - Prosperity in Ireland - - Rule of Dublin Castle — Men learn by trying — Aristo- cratic views — An embittering contrast — Busy Belfast — Ulster must remain Irish — The Orange and the Green - - Reasonable Ulstermen — Gun-running — Carson and the Kaiser — Ulster disapproval — Political vicissitudes — C xxi 3 Contents PAGE The Kaiser both going and coming — Siege of Derry — Tyrone in Ulster — "Best elements" opposed to home rule - - Effects of poverty - Ireland's weakness - - Changing winds — The Royal Commission — Way to peace BOOK SIX (1914-1921) CHAPTER FIFTY 633 1. The Sarajevo murder — The case of Serbia — Jaures — Invasion of Belgium -- A bootless task — Change in British feeling — Cabinet resigna- tions — Lichnowsky - - A gentleman deceived — Ground lost --Grey's error 2. Germany's statement — The British version - Taking the odium - - A gift, not a loan — Viola- tions of recognized codes - - Mistaken view of America — Appeal to Carnegie Endowment — Stranded tourists - - Hoover and the C. R. B. - Wrath, not fear — A bold lie — The Russian myth — Circumstantial evidence- -The Liberal Club - - War has right of way — Sieper — The two Germanys 3. Our plea - - Peace a lost cause - - Time to oppose war --America as a City of Refuge — lona Knight — Our duty as I saw it - - The armament makers — Half-hearted advocacy — A vigorous thesis --At the Boston Economic Club — Dr. Albert — Special pleading — Oppenheim's letter — A closed discussion 4. Morris Jastrow — The Manifesto of the Ninety- three Intellectuals - - Fulda's alarm — Weh- berg's investigations — Misgivings - -The Ger- man position — Seeck's view — Assertions of Leonhard — Fried's summing up CHAPTER FIFTY-ONE 662 i. Through Texas -^ For Belgian relief — The Lusitania — Can peace be enforced ? — Estes Contents PAGE Park — N. E. A. for 1915 - - The Buissons - "Ways to Lasting Peace" — Insurance peace congress — Energetic preparation — Kingsley — "Insurance against War" — A change of heart — The joint congress — Cousin Harvey again 2. Van Beek en Donk — "Annexation and Con- quest" — The Minimum Program — Neutrality impossible — Secret treaties and other iniquities — La course vers 1'abime — A plan for media- tion — Urge toward war — Converting America 3. Jane Addams and European chancelleries — The Woman's Peace Party — Continuous mediation — The only solution — America's leadership — Christmas a time for peace — Facts not to be concealed — Colonel House — "A long shot" Boardman lecture — • The Oscar II - - Rosika Schwimmer — Emotional oratory — "Out of the trenches by Christmas" — More than slo- gans needed — Publicity versus patience — Some of the Crusaders — An Unofficial Com- mission of Mediation CHAPTER FIFTY-TWO 686 1. Ways of Pangermany — Two theories of loyalty — "The Two Germanys" • — Sir Francis Webster — Inspiration from Scotland — An agent of Germany — President Lovett — Julian Huxley 2. Stormy outlook in Mexico • — Storey and Kellogg — Rojas and his colleagues • — Alarming condi- tions— The Columbus raid — El Paso "holo- caust" — Villa's threat — Carrizal — Populace inflamed — McNary — Another scrap of paper? — "El capitan encantado" — "Stabilizing" concessions - - Shearers and shorn — Call to Al- buquerque — Appeal for a breathing space — Steffens — Fair but unacceptable — Virtues of conference — Watchful waiting — Honorable concessionaires — Colonel Burns — Violence again urged Contents PAGE 3. N. E. A. in New York — Taft defends the League to Enforce Peace — A plea for Natural History — An extended campaign — A noted sanitarian — Trevelyan's letter — Genera of fishes — Fossil fishes — A Miocene tragedy — Ancestors of living fishes — Unique and amazing! CHAPTER FIFTY-THREE 712 1. Wilson's efforts for peace — Diver campaign - Imperative demand for war — Willful Senators — Emergency Peace Federation — Fall of Rus- sian autocracy — At Columbia — • Thoughtful deliberations — 'A Joint High Commission — A League of Neutrals — Madison Square Garden meeting — Journalistic amenities — Magnes — War prosperity a grim joke --Arguments for joining the Allies — Wall Street and war — Menace of triumphant hordes — One motive for compulsory training 2. At Princeton — Evans Clark — Garrison and the Junkers -- Allinson — In Boston — At Yale - Phelps and the merry gentlemen — Patten, University of Pennsylvania -- First recorded peace commission - - Miss Detrick — Student pacifists — " Patriotic " rowdyism — For law and order — Incongruous hymns — Interested instigation — Two programs - - The Bannwaert episode — Visitors from Baltimore -- Good Po- licing — Unpleasant neighbors — The Presi- dent's decision - - Two points of view — Oppos- ing sides of the shield - - Breathless campaign — Another forlorn hope — Varying dilemmas — My statement - - Successive repulses CHAPTER FIFTY-FOUR 737 i. East again — Forebodings in Wall Street — The People's Council — An unwelcome distinction — Appeal to the press — In San Francisco — A plain statement — Need for definition — New C xxiv 3 Contents PAGE form of University Extension - - Jeannette Rankin — My own view — The President de- fines our aims — Hope for rational peace 2. Stanford's war losses — James Fergusson — Clifford Kimber - - In New York - - Harold Aup- perle — Pellissier — Beaseley 3. Stockholm conference — "The Root of the Evil " — " Pangermany " — Rhin et Moselle — A period of humiliation - - Superheated patriot- ism a product of war 4. Thursday evening conferences- "Democracy and World Relations" -The Fourteen Points — Necessary foundation of civilization — How I appear to critics -- Ferdinand's fall — Too late! — Holland as mediator — The vocation of Holland? — Autocracy incompatible with civilization 5. Not Victory but Liberation — Hopes dashed — Healing by first intention — Gambetta's ob- servation — The Paris Conference - - Lloyd George as politician — Wilson's noble ambition CHAPTER FIFTY-FIVE 761 1. Spirit of the League — Covenant and Treaty — Mild reservations suggested — Reasons for failure to ratify — A Council of Civilization 2. Herron's tribute — Fried tells the story — Fernau 3. Klyce's "Universe" — "Oneness" not neces- sarily "sameness" — A priori reasoning-- Sci- ences exact and inexact — Livableness --My view of prayer - - Prayer the core of endeavor 4. Indiana University pageant — At Cornell — Albert Smith — A study of Lincoln - - Demo- cratic National Convention — Senator Owen — The people's choice — President Harding 5. Threescore years and ten — A conspiracy of affection — Old students entertain the "Old Guard" — Benediction C xxv 3 Contents APPENDIXES: PAGE A. To David Starr Jordan, January 19, 1911 783 B. The Stability of Truth (191 1) 787 C. Relation of the University to Medicine . 791 D. In the Wilderness 794 E. Krieg und Mannheit 799 F. The Balkans 806 G. To the Scholars, Writers, and Artists of Great Britain and Germany 810 H. Joint Telegram to Wilson and Carranza, July 4, 1916 812 I. The Passing of Don Luis 813 J. The "Holocaust" at El Paso, March 6, 1916. . . 817 K. Letter to Senator Dresselhuys 821 L. Lammasch's Efforts for Peace 825 M. A Few Tributes on the Author's Seventieth Birthday 827 N. Poetic Play among Friends and More of the Author's Philosophy 833 INDEX . 845 C xxvi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Portrait of David Starr Jordan, 1921 Frontispiece OPPOSITE PAGE Street in Enoshima 18 "Kojigoku" at Unzen 26 Ainu Village near Sapporo; Ainus at Sapporo 56 Barbara Jordan, 1900 84 Kilauea in Eruption; Cold Lava Flow, Kilauea .... 88 Among the Tree Ferns 100 Lake Lanuto 106 Wreck of the "Adler" and Sister Ships no Mud Skippy in Mangrove Tree, Tutuila 116 Zoology Building, Now Jordan Hall; North End of Inner Quad 134 Naha River, Alaska, Outlet of Lake Jordan 138 Whale Attacked by Killers off Santa Cruz; Salmon Leap- ing Waterfall 144 Jane Lathrop Stanford 156 La Meije, Dauphine; La Grande Ruine 162 Stanford Church after the Earthquake, 1906; "Agassiz in the Concrete" 174 Facade of Restored Outer Quadrangle, Stanford Univer- sity, 1909 184 Chemistry Building Seen through Arch; Facade of Church 192 Whale Stranded off San Francisco 202 Hugo de Vries; Anton Dohrn; T. W. Edgeworth David; Leonhard Stejneger 208 The Hospitable Reptile. From "Eric's Book of Beasts" 250 David Starr Jordan and Eric Knight Jordan, 1908 . . . 256 Some Members of the Jordan Club 294 Bertha von Suttner; Kakichi Mitsukuri 308 Carcassonne, Near View; Carcassonne from the River 316 Frederic Passy; Ernst Heinrich Haeckel 322 Theodore Ruyssen; Henri La Fontaine 326 Alfred H. Fried; John Mez; Norman Angell; Francis W. Hirst 340 Jizos at Gamman, near Nikko 356 C xxvii List of Illustrations OPPOSITE PAGE Cartoon in Osaka "Puck," 1911 362 Viscount Eiichi Shibusawa; Viscountess Shibusawa . . 370 Koreans with Loaded Ox, Seoul; Suigen Gate 390 Garden of Raku-raku-en; Raku-raku-en 398 Japanese Boy Scouts, Yokohama 402 Jessie Knight Jordan, 1911 412 Felix Moscheles; Courtney of Penwith 480 Jordan in Devon; Clovelly 488 "Quand Meme," Belfort; Statue of Strassbourg, Place de la Concorde, Paris 514 Arco, 1677; Arco, 1913 522 Ragusa 526 Cattaro and the Montenegrin Frontier; "Souvenir of Montenegro," 1914 530 Harvey Ernest Jordan; J. Arthur Thomson 548 Greek Priest from Rilo Monastery; Burned Mill at Rilo 586 Frontier Bridge, Bistritza River; Ruins in Burned Petritch 592 En Route from the Bistritza to Demir Hissar; Greek Troops at Christos Aneste Hellas; Camel Train Led by Donkey, Demir Hissar 598 Greek Refugees from Thrace, Demir Hissar; Montenegrin Guard, Robert College 602 Robert College, Constantinople 608 Charles Richet; Heinrich Lammasch 616 George Russell ("A. E."); Sir Horace Plunkett ... 628 Admiral Austin M. Knight, U. S. N 648 Knight Starr Jordan, 1918; Eric Knight Jordan, 1920 . 652 Jenkin Lloyd Jones; Jane Addams 684 Arthur Clifford Kimber; James Grant Fergusson; Harold Vincent Aupperle 746 Extract from Contribution by Author to Rhin et Moselle 750 Bust of David Starr Jordan, 1921 774 Stanford University from the Air, 1921 778 xxv BOOK FOUR 1900-1906 The Days of a Man £1900 document on the back of a menu card. This my colleagues signed and, thus prepared, it still remains practically unchanged. Annual meetings are regu- larly held at one or another university. Each sends as many delegates as it pleases, though having but one vote; at the same time all resolutions are advisory only, so as not to limit the free action of any institu- tion within the group. In a small way, the make-up of the association and its relation to colleges generally bear a strong resemblance to that proposed for the 'League of Nations." The 'Big Fourteen" group of 1900 has since increased to about thirty. The charter members were: California Johns Hopkins Catholic University Michigan Chicago Princeton Clark Stanford Columbia Virginia Cornell Wisconsin Harvard Yale At a meeting held at Yale, President Arthur Twin- ing Hadley read a scholarly paper on the organization EHot on of the medieval university. In the discussion which medieval- followed, Dr. Eliot (with a clear-cut audacity we younger men could not venture to emulate) rose to say that ''the American university has nothing to learn from medieval universities, nor yet from those still in the medieval period." I shall now touch briefly on a painful and trying episode which, originating in September, 1896, be- came gradually critical during the next four years. If the matter concerned only myself and my own shortcomings, temperamental or otherwise, I should C 2 3 ism 19003 An Unusual Situation gladly pass it by, heeding Elbert Hubbard's advice: ' Never explain; your friends don't need it and your enemies won't believe you anyhow." In this particular case, however, 1 had a double problem - - on the one hand to shield the University f°rmed r • r i ..... . criticism from uninformed or unsympathetic criticism such as then beset the University of Chicago, and on the other to protect the reputation of a young professor from the natural consequences of his indiscreet adven- tures in thorny paths of partisan politics. I failed in both efforts; but the complex situation can be fairly judged by no one unfamiliar with the details of our 'Long Fight," during which almost every other consideration was necessarily subordinated to the one prime duty of saving the endowment for higher education. Founder, president, and professors then worked as members of a cooperating family rather than as university officials. Yet I am bound to declare, and beyond all possi- bility of denial, that Mrs. Stanford did not at any time or in any way step outside her right and duty as trustee of the University; also, that in her opinions and judgment she was guided solely by what she correctly interpreted to be the letter and spirit of the governing statutes as clearly laid down at the outset. Above all, I must again affirm that no one has now or ever had a particle of evidence to show that "Money Power," "the Interests," or "the Repub- lican Machine" influenced her in the least. Her frequently expressed resolve never to concern her- self "with the religion, politics, or love affairs of any professor" she faithfully kept. C 3 The Days of a Man [1900 The summer of this year was marked by two out- standing features - - the most interesting and instruc- tive of all my scientific excursions, and the most cruel personal calamity we have ever experienced, the sudden death just before my return home of our beloved daughter Barbara. The first was my ex- ploration of Japan, made possible by Mr. Hopkins, who again came generously to my aid by arranging to send Snyder with me as associate. Fishing in In the course of the summer we visited every japan promising stream and fishing station from Nagasaki and Obama on the island of Kyushyu in the south to Mororan and Otaru in the northern island of Hok- kaido. In many of these places white men were almost unknown, as it was only a few weeks after the abolition of the passport system, which immediately followed the turning over by the Powers to Japanese jurisdiction of the foreign concessions in the "Treaty Ports" Yokohama, Kobe, Nagasaki, Hakodate, and Niigata. As a result ot our work we brought home about one thousand species, nearly two hundred of them new to science - - a mass larger than all previous collections put together and forming the material for numerous papers by myself and my colleagues. In all our operations we had the thorough sympa- thy and unfailing help of Dr. Mitsukuri, one of my associates in the Fur Seal Investigation, and the ablest of Japanese men of science.1 Referring to the torii, or Shinto temple gates placed before forests which must not be felled, Mitsukuri said that "it See Vol. I, Chapter xxm, pages 602 and 605 C 4 3 Japanese Intelligence and Courtesy could not be a bad religion that saved the trees"! He moreover assured me that Japan was a civilized country; that in any village we should find the people possessed of an intelligent knowledge of what we were trying to do, and willing and eager to help us. This statement was literally true. As I have said, we visited many villages where foreigners were vir- tually unknown, and yet everywhere we met not only courtesy but entire understanding. All towns of 10,000 people or more had a natural history museum, and usually an art gallery as well. The museums turned over their fishes to us without hesi- tation, for "they would be able to get more and we might not." Going out, we reached Honolulu the very day (June 14) on which Hawaii, already nominally an- tion °/. nexed * to the United States, was organized as a territory — an occasion remarkable for the enthusi- asm displayed by the foreign residents, especially the sugar planters, and the futile though temporary lamentation of the natives. During our short stop-over we drove up to the The Nuuanu Pali, the almost vertical rim of an ancient N™ and gigantic crater half of which has been torn away by the sea. From there the westward view down over vivid green sugar-cane fields 2 and dusky jungles of guava to the blue ocean some miles away is one of the fairest in all my range of travel. Nevertheless, one can hardly fail to recall the fact that a bloody catastrophe was once staged on the Pali, when Kame- 1 Annexation released great numbers of Japanese from serfdom to the sugar corporations, bringing many of them to Honolulu. There they soon monopo- lized certain trades, ultimately the fisheries as well; and some thousands came at once to California, where their presence has created both political and social complications not yet resolved. 2 Now (1920) mostly replaced by gray-green plantations of pineapple. C 5 3 The Days of a Man £1900 hameha the Great, King of Hawaii, drove the people of Oahu over the cliff and down to their death on the rocks a thousand feet below. First im- It was on a sullen, drizzly day (June 24) that we had our first glimpse of Japan. Entering the harbor of Yokohama, we looked down on warm, sloppy water full of white jellyfish; on either side appeared low shores, dimly seen, backed by dark pines, and in the foreground brick warehouses and gray hotels. At the wharf jinrikisha men waited with their little vehicles, called in Japanese kuruma, "wheel," while all about swarmed the people in costumes familiar from Japanese lanterns and fans. Selecting my man, I gave at once the magic order, " Sakana; ichi ba" ("Fish; market-place"), and off we sped through the foreign concession by way of well- kept streets lined with English-looking brick houses, a green cricket field and a pretty park, then over rough and narrow lanes to our destination. The great market consisted of open stalls, the dealers squatting above their wares, a generous variety of fish in baskets or alive in troughs of water. Among them was a huge swordfish, a species never before recorded from Japan; this, like the black-tailed sole at San Diego,1 we regarded as a good omen. As I went on a round of inspection, one young lad, appar- ently much impressed, gave my leg a polite pinch and shouted as he ran away: "He's real, he's real!" Having satisfied my first curiosity, I was next impressed by the variety in men's costume, anything from a towel to flowing robes of silk seeming to serve the purpose. Especially conspicuous were the large 1 See Vol. I, Chapter ix, page 203. C 6 3 19003 jfapanese Dress letters or ideographs on the backs of workmen's blouses, mostly red in a white circle, the garment itself being generally blue. Dress in Japan, as we afterward discovered, is a matter of status, not of choice. Every man, as a rule, had his clothes shaped for him centuries ago, a matter to which I may again refer. But the more striking types tend to disappear, to be replaced by what men choose for themselves, or care to pay for. In European costume, rare at the time of my first visit, the women look taller, less refined, more compe- tent, more aggressive, and less attractive than in native garb. The man becomes shorter, homelier, and relatively insignificant in European clothes. Among the remarkable costumes are those of men- dicant musicians who bear on the head a tall or broad basket with slits in front of the face, and go piping from house to house. One pilgrim girl we saw at Nagasaki had a huge hat two feet or more across and trimmed with green cloth. After a few hours in Yokohama we went on to Tokyo for a very brief stay before setting out on our mission. But certain matters detained us there un- expectedly long. Our first necessity was to find Stanford among the Stanford group some one who could go hclpe about with us as secretary-interpreter. In this we were especially fortunate, securing for the first half of the summer Keidichi Abe, a native of Sendai, and for the second half, Keinosuke Otaki, one of my students in Zoology.1 Japanese youths at Stanford for the first sixteen years were nearly all of the impoverished samurai (feudal retainer) class who had worked their way 1 See page 17 for note on pronunciation of Japanese. c 7 n vers The Days of a Man £1900 upward by sheer energy and persistence. They were students _ older than most of their fellow-students — older in- in America . . . . i i • T deed sometimes than appearance would indicate — and they were often disposed to look down on the rather careless American lads who took their oppor- tunities more lightly. Probably most of them had been directed to the United States by missionaries. Returning to Japan, they often acquired large influ- ence as teachers or officials in provincial towns. Political posts in Tokyo, however, were rarely offered to any educated in America or England, for such were almost sure to.be infected by "dangerous ideas"; and graduates of the excellent Imperial University were always preferred by the Genro or "Elder States- men," representatives for the most part of the "fighting clans," Satsuma and Choshu,1 who led in public affairs. This condition American graduates were disposed to resent, although ineffectively. There can be no doubt, however, that their atti- tude has been a large factor in quieting the war spirit so easily aroused against America by water- front agitators or unscrupulous militarists. Effect of Since the Root-Takahira pact of 1907, first called menn's~ bY Wil1 Irwin " the Gentlemen's Agreement," the Agree- character of the Japanese student body in America has considerably changed. For no one of them is allowed to leave Japan without evidence of means to pay all his expenses for four years. Thus many who would like to enter American institutions are held back, and while the Stanford group still runs from twenty-five to thirty, its members now belong mainly to the well-to-do classes, and they have in general better preparation than their predecessors. As a rule, 1 Satsuma is the center of naval influence; Choshu stands for the army. 1900] Samurai Persistence however, any Asiatic student who finds his way over- seas is "one of a thousand," a person of superior ambition. In recent years American-born Japanese girls as well as boys have begun to enter our colleges; these are thoroughly "assimilated," sometimes know- ing little or nothing of the old mother tongue or of native Japanese customs. Abe's experiences were interesting and typical of Abe's samurai persistence. At twenty, not knowing a word adventurej of English, he left San Francisco bearing a placard, "Send this man to Denver." There he became in turn farm laborer, railway section hand, and appren- tice to the trade of rubber cutting. From Denver he went on to Peoria, thence to Arkansas where he worked as railway gateman. Stricken with malaria, he now returned to Illinois; growing profoundly discouraged, however, he was tempted, he said, "to curse God and die." But pulling himself together he went back to Colorado to work for a time as a cowboy, meanwhile studying English with a friendly judge, who advised him to enter school at once. Dr. James H. Baker, principal of the Denver High School (later president of the University of Colorado), then helped him to pay his way and finish his course by the sale of Navajo blankets. In 1894 he entered the Univer- sity of Chicago, but finding the climate unfavorable, started for California with only ten dollars, and by ''beating it" through on the trains, arrived with a margin of fifty cents. At Stanford he served as 'cook in Gilbert's family. On receiving his degree in 1898, he returned to Japan, to become clerk in a Tokyo steamship office. Now we found him, at the age of thirty-four, married and relatively prosperous, a magazine writer and advocate of rigorous moral C9 : The Days of a Man £1900 standards for his people and of a drastic reform of the geisha system. But although apparently in sound health at that time, he died not many years after our visit. otaki Otaki was one of the two Japanese students who entered Stanford the first year, during which he and Sadonosuke Kokubo, his classmate, served my family as cook and second boy. " Graduating in Zo- ology, he became a temporary field assistant to the United States Fish Commission on the Columbia River. An eloquent speaker in his own language, and much interested in educational problems, at the time of our visit he was teaching English in the Imperial Military Academy of Tokyo. There he trained Japanese youth in thought and literary style, his principal text being the essays of Herbert Spencer. Afterward he became professor of Ichthyology in the provincial University of Sapporo, writing a series of popular essays on the fishes of Japan. But in a tramway wreck he received injuries from which he died in 1910. Asodai One afternoon I ventured to make a call at his modest home, a slight breach, perhaps, of conven- tional etiquette. He was absent, but his mild, motherly wife (who could not escape) bowed three times to the ground in extreme deference. I then presented my card. This being meaningless to her, I walked boldly into the tiny house, which contained three exquisite rooms with sliding panels, besides a sort of kitchen - - a brick alcove about a yard square. In the "library" I found two small shelves of Ameri- can books; on the center stool lay a copy of 'The Book of Knight and Barbara," which I pointed out to the little lady. It then flashed upon her who the C 10 : 1900] A Modest Home invader must be, and she brought forth in triumph one of my photographs. This the two kuruma men pronounced a good likeness. A meek tot of one year easily made friends, but "Knight" Otaki, then about three, ran out and hid behind a cherry tree. I caught him, however, and brought him in, which everybody thought a great joke. Finally, after numerous bows and attempts at foreign handshaking, they let me go. The home was very pretty, but its simplicity and enforced econo- mies seemed pathetic; a scholar cannot work under such limiting conditions. On one of the tiny lacquer stands I noticed the unfinished draft of Otaki's wel- come to his "dear teacher," to be delivered at the banquet given me that evening by the Stanford alumni, a speech earnest and heartfelt but with large traces of Japanese idiom. In front of the house was a dainty garden, includ- ing one flowering cherry and a native palm. It is a charming feature of Japan that no home is complete without a garden, however small. In a humble Tokyo dwelling I saw one in a lacquered tray two feet square, with rocks, paths, pagodas, pools made of glass, green moss for grass, dwarf pines, maples, and palms, none of them over six or eight inches in height. The dinner arranged for me by the Stanford boys Din was served, at my suggestion, in Japanese style. JaP°naisc Then, before we separated, a Stanford Alumni Association was blocked out, and various pertinent matters came up for discussion. Among them was that of the standing of Japanese students at Stanford, it being the general opinion that the professors were C ii U nner a The Days of a Man [1900 too lenient with them on account of their imperfect knowledge of English. The new association therefore resolved to ask our faculty to exact from Japanese the same standards as from the others. It was also arranged that questions of admission to Stanford from Japanese secondary schools should be referred to a committee who would undertake the investiga- tion necessary to fix the status of any institution. Present that evening was D. Brainerd Spooner, Stanford '99, a student in Philology then resident in Tokyo, where he acted as secretary to the Minister of Siam, exchanging instruction in English for similar lessons in Siamese. Spooner and James F. Abbott, his classmate, who will appear in later pages, entered the Imperial University of Tokyo for graduate work in 1901, the first non-Asiatics to be admitted to that institution. This move at once aroused some clamor among the students, who maintained that the national university was for Japanese alone. The professors, however, made the foreigners welcome and soon quieted criticism. Mitsukuri even looked farther, writing to me especially to express his regret that our men remained for a term only, as he wished to establish the principle of an open door in higher education. Spooner, a tireless and erudite student of Sanskrit and other Oriental lore, has been now for years an official of the British government in charge of archeological surveys in India, in the course of which he brought to light the famous crystal vase which still held the finger bones of Buddha. As a sequel to the dinner we were invited to an interesting excursion arranged jointly by the gradu- ates of Stanford and the University of California, the professors in Biology at the Imperial University - C 12 ] Japanese Biologists Mitsukuri, Isao lijima, Sho Watase, Chiyomatsu Ishikawa, K. Kishinouye, and H. Nakagawa-- being also included as guests. Dr. lijima, after Mitsukuri the leading naturalist of Japan, and also his lifelong associate and friend, was a student of Edward S. Morse.1 Watase, a morphologist who had worked under Brooks at Johns Hopkins, was for some time professor in the University of Chicago. Ishikawa had written an important memoir on the fishes of Lake Biwa, Kishinouye was a fishery expert, Naka- gawa a student of insects. Our trip led to the Tamagawa or "Jewel" River, Cormorant a clear, swift stream with wide flood-plain of coarse gravel, where fishing by cormorants is made a specialty. Four birds, each with a harness about its body and a rubber band at the base of the neck to keep it from swallowing the catch, showed amazing skill at their trade. Two boys drew a low net along the river to drive the fish ahead, while the cormo- rants, led by a third lad, swam in front, diving for prey. When a bird's pouch filled up he was shaken over a basket, and thus disgorged with little cere- mony. Watching the process, Mitsukuri said: "You can see by the looks of that cormorant how Japan felt when she was made to give up Port Arthur." 1 lijima was not only a morphologist of high rank, but an outdoor naturalist as well, and a noted popularizer of science. Near the Misaki Seaside Laboratory where he spent his summers are the great ocean depths of Okinose — four miles — from which Kuma Aoki, his man, brought him the rarest of glass-sponges, on which wonderful but little-known group he was the chief authority. Of them he described many new forms, even new families, in a region where, in the words of Dr. Bashford Dean, "Nature seemed to have taken many pains to keep them alive in an early geological garden." His death occurred in 1920. It was at lijima's initiative that means were devised to force the pearl oyster to produce "culture pearls" by artificial irritation of the mantle or out- side skin under the shell. These globules, often very beautiful, are now well known in commerce. In substance they are the same as true pearls, the latter being the result of intrusion by minute parasitic worms. C 13 H The Days of a Man £1900 But the birds are wholly devoted to their duties and rush at the fish with the eagerness of a retriever. They dislike strangers, however, croaking hoarsely at them. A general Fishing over, the ayu, a species of yellow trout — Plecoglossus - - were saved for our feast, while the minnows and sculpins were thrown back to the birds, which gulped them with exuberant delight. Among the species secured that day was one dace new to science, which we named Leuciscus phalacrocorax for its captor - - Phalacrocorax. I was interested to notice native in the river bed an abundance of the day lily - - Hemerocallis fulva - - common in old- fashioned gardens in America. Returning to the city, we passed two beautiful Shinto temples, and near them was a monument so old that no one in the party could read its inscrip- tions. Meanwhile the skylarks sang in the open, and Japanese crows, most sarcastic of birds, jeered at us from the trees. Next day Mitsukuri hired a fishing boat in which we tried our luck with the rest of the fleet in Tokyo Bay. We caught very little, however, though we The did as well as the others. On an island in the harbor for"*"* stands an ancient fort as fantastically shaped as a negligible modern dreadnought. 'With that," said our host, "old Japan tried to shut out Western civilization." But civilization ignored the fortress as negligible, entering the country not by force of arms but by trade and education — each in itself a form of brotherhood. At Mitsukuri's request I spoke without interpreter to the advanced students of the Imperial University, on Agassiz as a teacher. My audience gave appar- 19003 Courteous Entertainment ently the closest attention, though I felt increasingly sure that not one out of twenty understood, which was in fact the case. All of them had a good reading knowledge of English, but as a spoken language it was quite unfamiliar. A formal luncheon was afterward given me in the Mitsukuri beautiful garden of the Imperial University by Dr. and (Baron) Dairoku Kikuchi, its distinguished president, a fine historical scholar and graduate of Cambridge, whose honored career later included the headship of Public Instruction for Japan, the presidency of the newly established Imperial University of Kyoto, and finally Privy Councilorship to the Mikados, Mutsuhito and Yoshihito, up to about 1915, when his death took place. Kikuchi and Mitsukuri were own brothers, the difference in surname said to be due to the for- mer's early adoption by another family. Kikuchi spoke English perfectly and with eloquence. At the luncheon I met nearly all the members of the Uni- versity faculty, but Lafcadio Hearn, whom I espe- cially regretted to miss, was not present. Still another function was the dinner given in my Dinner at honor at the Koyokan (Maple Club) by Shiro Fujita, ^e Maple Mitsukuri's associate on the Fur Seal Commission. This was an especially enjoyable affair in elaborate Japanese style, the menu being interspersed with various songs and interpretive " dances." Among the guests were Alfred E. Buck, United States Min- ister to Japan, President Kikuchi, and my friends of the University College of Science. In a lucid interval between functions, Snyder and I made a short raid into the old province of Hitachi to the northeast of Musashi, in which lies Tokyo. n 15 n The Days of a Man £1900 These interesting ancient strongholds of provincial princes or daimyos are still dear to the hearts of the people, though no longer officially recognized as political units.1 Odd During feudal days it was customary for princes protective to build walls of earth across the lanes leading into another province, in order to keep people and products at home. Referring to this practice, Pro- fessor Basil Hall Chamberlain2 translates a dainty Japanese poem which relates to a Hitachi-Iwaki barrier: Methought this barrier, with its gusty breezes, was but a mere name, but, lo, the wild cherry blossoms flutter down to block the path. On the Fourth of July we attended a luncheon given ito and by Mr. Buck at the American Embassy. Prince amagata Yamagata, at that time prime minister, was among the numerous guests, as well as Prince Ito, his predecessor. With the straightforward sagacity of Ito, unquestionably the ablest statesman of con- temporary Japan, I was much impressed. Baseball In the afternoon I went to a baseball match be- i« japan tween a Japanese nine and one made up of Americans resident in Yokohama; the home team won, not by hitting but by very clever base running. The sport, then already popular, soon became the national game, the students of the two local universities, Keio and Waseda, being special rivals. After a while contests between them had to be forbidden, as popu- lar feeling ran so high that riots were sometimes imminent. For each institution seems to have a 1 See Chapter xxvn, page 65. 2 Of the Imperial University of Tokyo, author of the excellent "Murray's Handbook for Japan." n 16 n 19003 Enoshima noisy following, Keio in the southern, and Waseda in the western part of the city. Teams from each have toured the United States, and American col- lege nines have played return matches in Tokyo. Our athletes as a whole show greater strength and skill, the Japanese more speed and agility on their feet. Next day we began serious work at Enoshima Picture ("island of pictures"), a bold, rocky, heavily wooded lsland promontory connected with the shore by a long sand spit submerged at spring tides. The usual entrance is through a V-shaped gorge up the steep sides of which the little town struggles symmetrically. A pretty inn received us in friendliest fashion, and with much low bowing, of course. The very lively little maid, whom we called O-Cho-San (Miss Butterfly), at once dubbed me "Daibutsu" ("Great Buddha") from my supposed resemblance to the huge and sublimely placid statue which ennobles the neigh- boring park at Kamakura on the mainland. "If I climbed on your back I should be like a chickadee on the back of an oak," she said. Enoshima's prime specialty is a lantern made of the dried, inflated skin of a big puffer fish,1 through which a candle gleams with pleasing effect. Much in evi- dence also are pictures and figures of Benten, goddess of beauty, especially devoted to the island, as are those of Ebisu,2 the fisher-god whose name was borne 1 Spheroides rubripes. 2 Pronounced " Aybees" the short u as nearly silent as you can make 'it, like the French final e as in Louvre. A uniform orthography for Japanese words, adopted also for the languages of Oceanica, was devised by Professor Chamber- n i? : The Days of a Man £1900 by our little inn. As we took Ebisu for patron saint, I shall here tell something about him. the His name (spelled with a bow and arrow in Chinese ' god ideograph) is said to indicate an outlander, a bar- barian perhaps, certainly an unsophisticate knowing only outdoor things. In any event he was banished by his father, the demigod Oanamuchi, to a lone, mist-covered island — Oshima, no doubt — to die of starvation. But instead he went a-fishing up and down the sandy shore, and his mother whispered through the soft warm wind of the Kuro Shio : 1 " Catch fish, my son; by fishing shalt thou be made a man." The sea was rife, the catch boundless, and fishermen then hailed Ebisu as their luck god. But soon he hungered for rice, which even demigods crave with raw fish. So, bearing a big red tai 2 or snapper under his arm, he wandered far afield till he found Daikoku, lain. In this system most vowels are sounded as in Italian. 0 however, as in French, may be long or short but is usually long, as in Yokohama. 0 long, largely used as a prefix or honorific, means great; short o means small. Thus oshima with short o is a small island; otaki, with long o, a great waterfall, otaki, with o short a small one. Short i and short u are inserted for the purpose of keeping two conso- nants apart, or to prevent a word from ending in a consonant — n being the only one which may terminate a word. These short letters are practically silent like the first and the third e in the French bouleversement. Ai, the only diph- thong, is sounded like the English i in pine. In ei, the vowels are always sounded separately. Final e is never silent, having the value of ay in bay. / is zh, or the French / in bijou. G, always hard, has rather the force of ng when followed by a vowel. Thus Nagasaki is pronounced Na-ngasaki. This confusing arrangement, adopted throughout the Pacific, was presumably intended to distinguish the Japanese sound from the more guttural terminal ng so common in China. No is the sign of the genitive, and follows the noun to which it refers; e, picture, shima, island, hence Enoskima. Words are compounded much as in the Greek except that the first letter of the second word may be changed for euphony; thus, kawa, river, ogawa, great river; yu, hot water, taki, falls, yudaki, falls of hot water. Syllabic accent or stress is practically wanting as in French. 1 " Black Current," the Gulf" Stream of Japan. 2 Pagrosomus major, the "national fish" of Japan. C 18 3 1900] Japanese Hotels the smiling, short-legged, placid god of trade, sit- ting high, as usual, on two bags of rice. Striking at another once a mutually satisfactory bargain, the two be- came inseparable friends, twin gods of luck forever after. All native hotels in Japan lack privacy and quiet, matters about which the inhabitants seem not to care. Indeed, any one may enter any room at any time, for any purpose, or for none at all. Food, so far as I am concerned, is scanty and not filling, though a word from Abe always brought us eggs, chicken, or fried fish - - once in a great while beefsteak or milk. Meals are served to order on the floor, each course in lacquered dishes placed on a charming little stand, with always a large, box-like, covered bowl of boiled rice to which one helps himself without stint. Besides this, dinner usually consists of a vegetable soup, fish raw or boiled, hot or cold, and various kinds of pickled roots, especially lotus or lily. A delicate brew of light green tea may be had at all hours. Bread and butter, fortunately rare, were thoroughly bad, the former sour, the latter rancid. But every- thing is scrupulously clean - - excluding all shoes from matting-covered floors helps, of course, to keep it so - - and spontaneous friendliness makes the Friend- foreigner feel measurably at home in spite of the liness alien tongue and the absence of beds, chairs, tables, knives and forks. The ever ready bath, shared by all the guests, con- sists of a large tub of exceedingly hot water; usually also, a boy comes in to give each man a welcome rub- down, though in the more old-fashioned houses that service is modestly performed by women. One then puts on a yukata (bath robe) which he wears till bed- C 19 3 The Days of a Man t;i9oo time - - even on the street if so minded, at least in hot Kyushyu. At night On a pile of padded quilts (futon} one may rest well, but must rise too early, as rooms are thrown wide open betimes, the custom of the country being to begin sliding back partitions as soon as it gets light. Yet the native pays no attention and sleeps as long as he pleases, the men using a bag of sawdust for pillow, the women a narrow block of wood which does not muss their meticulously dressed hair. A characteristic night sound is the soft "tap, tap" of tiny pipes on little tobacco stands, for the waking guest commonly smokes a thimbleful of tobacco, and then strikes his minute bowl softly to remove the ashes. Morning toilettes are soon completed, every- body having taken a hot bath the previous evening, so that after a handful of cold water and a few moments spent in adjusting his kimono, a Japanese gentleman is ready for the day. The tea The hotel has no barroom; it is just what it an- house nounces itself, a place to eat and sleep, the tea house being the resort for pleasure. Intoxicated men we very rarely noticed, though one day we did meet on the road a "happy drunk," yelling and shouting hoarsely. The few orientals of this type that came our way belonged to the wealthier merchant class for which tea houses exist. According to Abe, these last are essentially immoral institutions, a sort of half-decent Japanese equivalent of our American dive. A little more of Western influence will bring them into the same class. On Enoshima's "farther shore" we came upon the finest tide pools I had ever seen, and made a rich C 20 n On Sag ami Bay catch of slippery blennies. Near by we found a singular wave-worn cavern, the widened end of a long fault which cuts across the entire island and is similarly gouged out on the north opening. Within, its sides are lined with a long series of stone images or jizos, besides a coiled snake, an elephant, and various other real or symbolic figures. When we left the picture island, O-Cho-San fol- o-cho lowed us across the bridge, calling out sayonara ^an's (goodby) to all her associates, as though taking to the taking road with the Daibutsu combination. Neither pretty nor refined but full of good nature, she was one of the most joyous little creatures we met in Japan. Following by rail the curved shores of Sagami Bay, the car windows affording exquisite views of Fuji- yama, we next reached the high peninsula of Izu bounding the bay on the south, and continued up the ravine of a boisterous stream through hills covered with pine and bamboo, the latter looking like gigantic feathery ferns. Then crossing the mountain pass at picturesque Gotemba, we stopped for the night at Numazu, "swamp town," the entrance to a smiling plain, the richest district of all Japan. In Numazu an incongruous Methodist chapel, barn-like and painted dull red, contrasted strangely with the dainty Japanese homes. It seemed to me that while giving these people lessons in religion, we might learn from them something of beauty and fitness. The joy of the house at our inn, the Sugimoto, was a little three-year-old who bowed to the ground with absurdly solemn face according to the best etiquette. All took a hand in spoiling him, I with the rest, for Japanese children are a constant delight except when stunted by poverty and disease. C 21 3 The Days of a Man £1900 Fujiyama Just beyond Numazu we had our finest view of revealed Fuji, which had thrown off its cloud-cloaks and stood revealed in dazzling beauty, a stately cone and very high when thus viewed from sea-level. But native artists always exaggerate its steepness, a natural thing to do as I myself found when I tried to sketch it. At Nagoya we caught a glimpse of the famous many-flounced castle, then passed on through a level country wondrously pretty with green rice fields, bamboo-fringed hills, and villages smothered in foliage, till we came to Lake Biwa, the largest expanse of water in Japan. From there the road winds northward up and across the hills, then down to Tsuruga on the tideless Japan Sea. That night we lodged at the Kumagai, kept by peasant folk, bashful, awkward, and well-meaning as all the country people seemed to be. But the burly landlord scolded his help in a loud voice assumed to impress the guests. Early next morning he led us to market, paying for and carrying our purchases, evidently proud of his unusual responsibility. Crude though he was, we found him very intelligent, a fine, virile, out-of-doors man. That he wore only an open shirt and a towel did not disconcert us, as one soon learns to overlook unconventionality! Later in the day, however, we moved closer to the water, finding Daikoku Inn at the port better suited to our purposes. This is a charming little hotel; in the office sang a dainty blue white-bellied and fork-tailed swallow which had built its nest on a shelf out of reach by little boys. The eldest son of the household, an officer in the garrison near by, invited us to tea with four of his courteous brother lieutenants. One of these claimed to speak C 22 3 19003 To Kyushyu no German but failed ingloriously, even if good- naturedly, when put to the test. Collecting was good at Tsuruga, but a big snake Snyder found in a thicket being a protege of Ebisu, its capture would bring bad luck, the fishermen said ! And yet because the season had been very dry the people were whacking the heads of the mud gods of Omi, who had neglected the rice fields. Fortu- nately for the reputation of those poor deities, it rained hard the morning we left. From Tsuruga we hastened to southern Japan, crossing a narrow strait of the Inland Sea to the port of Moji on the great island of Kyushyu. Leaving Moji, the railway passes through a pretty hill coun- try with many plantations of lacquer trees - - Rhus vernicifera - - a sort of sumac with spreading, umbrella top. In the highlands lies the dainty, Swiss-like village of Arita, where they make the fine Imari porcelain. Farther on we came to the placid, fjord-like bay of Omura; then, having crossed another ridge, dropped into the city of Nagasaki. There the honorable governor of the province, in one Mitsukuri, a shrewd and agreeable gentleman, re- Na^asakt ceived us most hospitably and introduced me to the director of fisheries, Kobaraki, who took much inter- est in our work and who in turn presented to us Yahiro, a dealer in monkeys. Being then sorely tempted, I bought two of those fascinating animals, arranging to have both sent in due time to my return steamer at Yokohama. We now discovered what seemed at first an alarm- ing setback, but which really turned out to our advantage. In Tokyo we had bought ten barrels of n 23 3 The Days of a Man £1900 alcohol to be delivered to us at Nagasaki. But the Boxer uprising having broken out in China, and the Japanese government needing all available trans- ports for troops, it seized the vessel and put off our Formalin alcohol at Moji. This deprived us of the usual pre- repiaces servative, leaving no resource except to try formalde- alcohol » & r J hyde, a substance not before used on any large scale for such a purpose. But we found it very satisfactory for quick work, as great numbers of fishes could be washed, pricked to admit the fluid, wrapped, and stowed away within a few hours without the tedious process of successive baths in alcohol. It is, however, inadvisable to leave specimens more than a few weeks in formalin, as they grow spongy and the bones are partly dissolved; nevertheless, for field work it proved a real boon, and after our return to Tokyo the Japanese government, at the instance of Pro- fessor Mitsukuri, paid us in full for the alcohol dumped on the Moji wharf. In Nagasaki it poured and poured, day after day. But the rainy season being due to end on July 15. we confidently drove that day to Mogi, a fishing village on the sandy shore of the Bay of Obama, east of Nagasaki peninsula, over a road which ran through exquisite scenery resembling a bit of northern Italy. Mogi swarmed with kindly, primitive folk, very scanty of apparel as befits the hot climate, and delightfully unconscious of the fact; old women naked to the waist showed a fine dignity and returned our "Ohayo"1 with grace and good nature. In Mogi we were joined by James H. Means, the Stanford engineer, just back from Mongolia, whence he had escaped from the Boxers on the last train to 1 "Good morning." C 24 : 19003 The Hostess of the Unicorn leave that region. He had some uncomplimentary things to say of Urga, the capital, but later wrote that he had since been on the Gold Coast of Africa, and wished to take back all he had ever said in criti- cism of Mongolia, as well as of Arkansas, where he had once served as assistant geologist under Branner. Means accompanied me on a short but interesting trip to Obama and Unzen, the latter a mountain resort famous for its hot sulphur springs. During our passage across the bay we encountered very rough surf caused by a gale blowing straight in from the sea. The steamer having swashed through and come to rest behind the Obama breakwater, we were taken off in a sampan or rowboat, a poor seasick Japanese lady still clinging to my knees as to a last hope. At the dock waited O-Mime-San, the locally famous hostess of Ikakku-ro or Unicorn Inn, who San asked if I were not Dr. Jordan and greeted me like an old friend. Later I learned that some one at Mogi informed her each day by telegraph of her prospective guests. This young woman spoke English well and with a sympathetic tone, thus making each feel himself the object of her special consideration. She had risen in her profession by devoted attention to the demands of English folk, some of which were very strange, to say the least. One lady whom we saw English depart for a few days at Unzen had two pack ponies loaded with trunks and blankets, several umbrellas, and a big, uncompromising bathtub, she herself riding high above a pile of luggage in a chair. Leaving Cbama, I rode a wild stallion which Mime said I must pardon for his antics, he being country- bred! Our path, forced to the wall by ancient, C 25 3 eccen- tricities 'The Days of a Man £1900 A superb crowding cemeteries which hold the right of way, trip started straight up a rock staircase two or three hundred feet high. But having surmounted the hill (which yields superb views of Obama Bay and its bounding mountains) it widened into a sort of turn- pike, expensively built though washed out in numer- ous places by lawless streams not held in check. Farther on it passed into the clouds, invisible preci- pices dropping off on either side. Along the way we heard a charming song-sparrow, and higher up a wren with an elaborate melody — first, the simple "teacher-teacher" common to many little birds, then a variety of charming notes. Crickets were frequent, and cicadas of several species, insistent and per- sistent. One I made out to be the noted bridlebit insect, from its loud and curious jingle. Grape and greenbrier vines grew in the flowery bush and the blue '' butterfly flower" - Commelyna - • in the ditches, along with the familiar heal-all or Brunella. At Unzen the boiling springs and sulphur fumaroles spread over about a mile. But the two most striking phenomena, the geyser of "Loud Wailing" which throws a jet ten feet high, and the excessively hot spring called "Second Class Hell," are of trifling note compared with the Yellowstone displays. 4 Returning to our hotel at Nagasaki, we found there many American ladies, most of them handsome and attractive, the wives and daughters of naval officers from the Philippines, then engaged in hunting Boxers in China. As has been observed, young lieu- tenants and Anglican rectors often have the pick of C 26 ] 55 w SI H O o 19003 Nagasaki Again the girls ! All were naturally lonely and worried, with nothing to do but wait in the heat for news from Peking. Refugees from China, also, soon began to crowd The lady the hotels. Entering our own one day, I observed repents an American woman of muscular build and deter- mined expression telling the clerk what she thought of him and his inability to answer her questions. When I ventured to interrupt by giving the desired information, she turned on me fiercely and said: "Young man, when I want to hear anything from you, I'll let you know." The next moment she sud- denly dropped to the floor all the packages with which her arms were full, and exclaimed: 'Why, Dr. Jordan, I'm so delighted to see you! I'm Mrs. -. You will remember my son at Stanford." I did remember the youth very well, for on his way from New York to enter the University, he had wired me to meet him at the Palo Alto station at a certain hour. Having incautiously shown the telegram to a TOO colleague, I was afterward amused to hear that corftaliy ° ' welco meet . though I myself failed, the newcomer was welcomed by a hundred or more uproarious students who gave him so enthusiastic a greeting that, for a moment at least, he felt quite at home! The story of events at Peking during the Boxer uprising, as it came to me through refugees, is faith- fully related in ''Indiscreet Letters from Peking" by an Englishman (Lennox Simpson) who writes under the pen name of Putnam Weale. Of the many sug- Putnam gestive things in the book, one paragraph stands out Weale especially in my memory. Referring to a statement attributed to Lord Kitchener, the author says: C 27 3 Days of a Man [1900 Great soldiers have often told their men, after great battles have been fought and great wars won, that they had "tasted the salt of life." The salt of life! It can be nothing but the salt of death which has lain for a brief instant on the tongue of every soldier; a revolting salt which the soldier refuses to swallow and only is compelled to with strange cries and demon- like mutterings. Sometimes, poor mortal, all his struggles The salt and his oaths are in vain. The dread salt is forced down his of death throat and he dies. . . . Or he may not entirely succumb, but carry traces to the grave. It is a very subtle poison, which may lie hidden in the blood for many months and many years. I believe it is a terrible thing. A series of atrocities, then apparently unprece- dented, followed the arrival of the German military contingent in China under the command of Count Waldersee, after all need for severity had passed. Conditions precedent to the despatch of the expedition were described as follows by Henry N. Brailsford:1 No veneration for the inner ruling caste which has made the wars of Europe could survive a study of the memoirs which deal with the life of Bismarck, and his successor, Prince Hohenlohe. The Hohenlohe Memoirs, given to the world in 1906, expurgated though they were, remind the reader of the books in which our Puritan ancestors used to revel under such titles as "Satan's Berlin Invisible World Revealed." The book is simply a dissection intrigue of the personal ambitions and intrigues of the courtiers, generals, and ministers who surrounded the German Emperor during the years when Germany exercised a species of supremacy on the Continent. One may take as typical of the mind of these persons an entry by Prince Hohenlohe regarding the policy of Germany toward France in 1889. There was at this time some serious question of provoking war with France, and the main reason for hurrying it forward was apparently the eagerness of the German generalissimo, Count Waldersee, a most influential person at court, to reap the glory which is to be had only by leading armies in the field. There was unluckily no obvious pretext for war, but on the other hand Count Waldersee, who i "The War of Steel and Gold." C 28 3 19003 Suppressing the Boxers was growing old, was obsessed by the painful reflection that if the inevitable war were postponed much longer he would be compelled, a superannuated veteran, to witness the triumphs of a younger rival. In the end it was found impossible to pro- vide Count Waldersee with a European war, but to the aston- ishment of mankind the Kaiser did, before he reached the age limit, arrange a punitive expedition to China for his benefit. If he reaped no glory by it, the Chinese will not soon forget his prowess against noncombatants and movable property. On the eve of their departure from Germany the Kaiser made the troops a famous address: When you meet the foe you will defeat him. No quarter will be given; no prisoners will be taken. Let all who fall into your hands be at your mercy. Just as the Huns a thousand The years ago, under the leadership of Etzel (Attila),1 gained a Kaiser's reputation in virtue of which they still live in historical tradi- tion, so may the name of Germany become known in such a manner that no Chinese will ever again dare to look askance at a German. Here appeared the first application of the epithet :