N PS ARCHIVE 1968 MORITZ, C. A DESCRIPTIVE SURVEY OF THE HEAD OF CARMEL SUBMARINE CANYON by Carl Arthur Moritz DIDLEY KNOX LIBRARY NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MOMTFRFY PA qmi-5101 UNITED STATES NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL THESIS A DESCRIPTIVE SURVEY OF THE HEAD OF CARMEL SUBMARINE CANYON by Carl Arthur Moritz, Jr, December 1968 Ihjjt doaimznt ka& faeoi approved ion. pubtic K&- izasz and 6alz; JUU duVUbution i* unLimitzd. LIBRARY NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY, CALIF. 93940 A DESCRIPTIVE SURVEY OF THE HEAD OF CARMEL SUBMARINE CANYON by Carl Arthur Moritz, Jr. Lieutenant, United States Navy B.S., Naval Academy, 19 62 Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF SCIENCE IN OCEANOGRAPHY from the NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL December 1968 bg> ABSTRACT Scuba dive observations made in Carmel Submarine Canyon revealed the existence of rock outcrops of granodiorite on both sides of the canyon head. Five distinct bottom tvpes were found: (1) rock outcrops and boulders, (2) coarse sand, (3) fine sand containing benthic organisms, (4) a silty clay layer underlying coarse sand, and (5) an organic sedi- ment mate Rocky bottomed terraces on both sides of the can- yon head are at the same level and appear to have been eroded at a previous lowered sea level. The coarse sand areas, characterized by steep slopes, are considered to be areas of active sand movement. The fine sand bottoms were found to be relatively stationary although dead kelp material moves over its surface. Thin silty clay deposits considered to be of lagoonal or estuarine origin are found underlying sand at the north side of the canyon head. An organic sediment mat of undetermined thickness was found in a swale which appeared to be a slump scar. Mechanical erosion of the rock from both sand movement and the action of encrusting organ- isms is evident. LIBRARY NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY, CALIF. 93940 TABLE OF CONTENTS PAGE ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 8 INTRODUCTION 9 A. Objective 9 B. Past Studies 9 C. Geomorphology of Carmel Canyon Area ... 14 1. Location 14 2. Topography and Rock Outcrops 14 3. Relation to Faults 18 4. Type of Canyon 18 FIELD WORK 19 A. Diving Schedule 19 B. Reference Stakes 19 C. Bottom Slope Measurements 25 D. Sand Sample Collection 26 E. Photography 26 F. Bathymetric Survey 27 DIVING OBSERVATIONS 29 A. Topography 29 B. Bottom Types 31 1. Rocky Bottoms 31 2. Sand Bottoms . 35 a. Coarse Sand 35 b. Fine Sand 4 3 PAGE 3. Minor Bottom Types 4 6 a. Silt Layer 46 b. Organic Sediment Mat 50 SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS 51 BIBLIOGRAPHY 52 APPENDIX I 53 Field Notes of Scuba Dives Into the Head of Carmel Submarine Canyon. APPENDIX II 74 List of Major References Reviewed Concerning Submarine Canyons and Underwater Observations LIST OF TABLES TABLE PAGE I Sand Level and Slope Measurements at Reference Stakes 40 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FIGURE PAGE 1. Map of Monterey Bay Region 11 2. Map of Carmel Bay 12 3. Physiographical and Geological Features Near Carmel Canyon Head Area (Map) .... 13 4. Photograph of San Jose Creek Breakthrough. 17 5. Chart Showing Path of Dives 20 6. Chart Showing Bottom Topography and Reference-Stake Positions 21 7. Photograph of Equipment Used 2 2 8. Chart Showing Rock Outcrops and Bottom Types 30 9. Photograph of Rocks at 200 Feet 36 10. Photograph of Large Ripple Marks 37 11. Photograph of Coarse Sand Bottom With Beach-Derived Material 38 12. Photograph of Contact Between Fine Sand and Rock 44 13. Photograph of Fine Sand Bottom With Beach-Derived Material 45 14. Photograph of Micaceous Silty Clay Between Crests of Ripple Marks 48 15. Photograph of Well-Rounded Chunk of Silty Clay Material. . 49 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The author wishes to express appreciation for the advice and encouragement of Professor Warren C. Thompson under whose direction this study was carried out, and for photographic and other materials provided by an Office of Naval Research Foundation Grant to Professor Thompson. In addition, the author is indebted to Lieutenant S. R. Wallin, USN , who, while working on a related studv, was a most able and enjoyable diving partner. Also especially helpful was Commander D. R. Ferrin, USN (Ret) , whose diving assistance and knowledge of the Carmel Canyon area was most valuable. Other diving partners included Lieutenants B. R. Googins and R. J. Lennox, USN, Major W. H. Bond, USMC, and T. E. Maudlin. Appreciation is also expressed to Mr. Charles Mehlert and Mr. Donald Rich of the Monterey Office of the Califor- nia Department of Natural Resources, Division of Beaches and Parks, for their whole-hearted cooperation in this study. INTRODUCTION A. OBJECTIVE During the spring and summer of 1967, the author made several recreational dives in and around the head of Carmel Submarine Canyon and became fascinated by the great variety of geological and biological features available in this small underwater area. A literature survey revealed that relatively little has been done by way of direct observa- tion of Carmel Submarine Canyon. To date the only extensive detailed underwater observation of Carmel Canyon was a bio- logical exploration by McLean (1968). It was the author's purpose to conduct a comprehensive underwater examination of the canyon head. The picture derived of the underwater canyon that is presented herein incorporates observations and results from previous studies. B. PAST STUDIES Shepard and Emery (1941) made a detailed bathymetric survey of the Carmel Canyon head and concluded that from 1934 to 1939 a net fill amounting to 18 feet had taken place along the floor of the canyon in the inner section close to the beach. They felt that deposition was so rapid that the head would be largely filled within a few years unless a slide occurred. Martin (1964) , in a structural study of the Monterey Can- yon system, pointed out that Carmel Canyon trends due west in a straight line for 3 miles and then abruptly turns northwest for 12 miles before intersecting Monterey Canyon (Figure 1) . The nearshore reaches of Carmel Canyon are re- ported as containing igneous rocks of granodioritic comnosi- tion. Because of the proximity to the Santa Lucia grano- diorite exposed in the area, the igneous rocks collected from the seafloor are considered part of the same pluton. These rocks are dated as late Cretaceous or about 81.6 million years. Martin reported that Monastery Beach at the head of Carmel Canyon (Figure 2) was comoosed of sands which are apparently weathered from the granodiorites along the imme* diate coast. Sediments from the canyon axis were also found to consist principally of material derived from a grano- diorite source. Martin goes on to propose the genesis of Carmel Canyon in post-Late Cretaceous time and discusses its relationship to Monterey Submarine Canyon. Dill has made several dives into the head of Carmel Can- yon and reported precipitous granite walls with several trib- utaries entering as hanging valleys (Shepard and Dill, 1966). McLean (1968), beginning in the fall of 1960, made some 50 to 60 biological collecting dives on the rock outcroD lo- cated on the northern side of the canyon head. About one acre of area was covered at depths ranging from 60 to 20 0 feet. He was able to identify approximately 500 species of invertebrates and algae, including 122 species of mollusks. 10 FIGURE 1 Map of Monterey Bay Region 11 FIGURE 2 Map of Carmel Bay 12 0 I I I SANTA LUCIA GRANODIORITE VW.?. CARMELO CONGLOMERATE %:};;*. BEACH SAND FAULT M I Hi OLD BEACH FIGURE 3 Physiographical and Geological Features Near Carmel Canvon Head Area (Mao) 13 C. GEOMORPHOLOGY OF CARMEL CANYON AREA 1 . Location Carmel Canyon in Carmel Bay is located at the mouth of San Jose Creek, about one-half mile south of the point where Carmel River reaches the ocean (Figure 2) . The beach at the head of the submarine canyon is known as Monastery Beach and is located at latitude 36° 32' N and longitude 121° 56' W. 2 . Topography and Rock Outcrops The southern edge of Carmel Bay between Granite Point and Monastery Beach is a rocky sea cliff about 20 and 45 feet in height. Landward of the sea cliff at a height of about 65 feet above sea level is evidence of an old beach (Figure 3) . The area between the cliffs and the old beach is a marine terrace, the upper layer of which is a thin stratum of uncon- solidated sands and gravels. These terrace gravels were de- posited probably during the last interglacial epoch when sea level was higher than at present (Bowen, 1965). Shell frag- ments are found in places on the terrace deposits and repre- sent kitchen debris from abandoned Indian campsites. One of the granodiorite exposures on this terrace contains several Indian grain-grinding holes. Another higher marine terrace at an approximate elevation of 300 feet may be seen on the hillside behind the bay. Beginning at Granite Point in Point Lobos State Park, the cliffs are about 30 feet high and are composed of grano- diorite of the Santa Lucia Formation of late Cretaceous age (Bowen, 1965). To the east, near the boundarv of Point Lobos 14 State Park, is an outcrop about 100 yards wide of the Carmelo Formation (Paleocene) which consists of conglomerate, sand- stone, and mudstone in a steep fault contact with the grano- diorite (Figure 3). Some graded bedding is evident in places. The cobbles within the conglomerate are well rounded and of various sizes. They are mostly of volcanic origin and are composed mainly of rhyolite and dacite porphyry. The Carmelo Formation is exposed in several parts of Point Lobos State Park. The granodiorite continues eastward around the shoreline of the bay and ends abruptly at the southern edge of Monastery Beach. At this point there is another small outcrop of Car- melo conglomerates and sandstones (Figure 3) in a steeo fault contact with the granodiorite. Monastery Beach lies along the front of the alluviated lower course of San Jose Creek. The beach is about 700 yards long and is composed of coarse-grained quartz-feldspar sand of principally granodioritic origin and secondary amounts of metamorphic constituents, mainly quartzite. Pebbles of da- cite and rhyolite prophyry are found in small amounts and presumably come from the Carmelo conglomerate in the area. A few pebbles of siliceous shale were also found and presumably are from the Monterey Formation (middle Miocene) that out- crops in the hills behind the bay. The entire beach face is very steep varying between 10° and 35° . The crest of the beach is about 15 feet above the MLLW tide level and acts as a barrier which normally prevents 15 San Jose Creek from emptying into the ocean. The beach face is crescent shaped and is usually marked over its entire length by pronounced cusps. San Jose Creek enters the backshore area near the center of the beach (Figure 2) . The creek bed turns north and runs parallel to the beach crest to the north end of the beach where it is blocked most of the time by the beach crest. San Jose Creek breaks through the bar on rare occasions when the runoff is sufficient (Figure 4) . The entire creek bed behind the beach crest is normally dry except after heavy rains or during periods of heavy surf causing overwash into the back- shore area. At the northern end of the beach is a small outcrop of sandstone and conglomerate, which may be a part of the Cham- isal Formation (middle Miocene) which is found on a ridge be- hind the Carmelite Monastery. The pebbles and boulders with- in the conglomerate are very angular indicating local origin, and display graded bedding. They are composed of granodio- rite and shale. Lying directly on this formation is a thin layer of clayey black humus covered by rounded pebbles and boulders within a matrix of sandy soil. The pebbles and boulders are probably the remains of an old beach terrace (W. C. Thompson, personal communication). Extending upcoast from the north end of Monastery Beach is a low seacliff composed of granodiorite. It extends sev- eral hundred yards to Carmel River Beach and is interrupted in several places by small pocket beaches. 16 3 O U jG +j to 0) u m CD u W (D « co D O O ID H (13 CO m o x: o, o o xi 17 3. Relation to Faults Martin (1964) reported that the head of Carmel Sub- marine Canyon is fault controlled and quotes Bowen as stat- ing that a fault exists which runs east-west along the San Jose Creek Canyon. Bowen calls this the Carmel Vallev Fault and reports a difference in Miocene foraminiferal fauna ex- isting in strata on opposing sides of the valley. Martin suggests that erosion of Carmel Submarine Canyon may have been facilitated by a zone of weakness along this fault. He further suggests that the northern side of the canyon may be the scarp of an up-thrown block. As evidence indicating this, he cites scuba dives into the head which show a steep north wall composed of granodiorite and a south wall covered by sloping sand deposits. 4 . Type of Canyon Shepard and Dill (1966) describe Carmel Submarine Canyon as a drowned river valley with a dendritic tributarv system of several arms extending into bays along the shore. They further state that the canyon appears to be a seaward extension of San Jose Creek Canyon, the mouth of which has been filled with alluvium by San Jose Creek. Both the land canyon and submarine canyon are cut in granodiorite at their juncture at the coast, and both are steep walled. Measure- ments by Shepard and Dill show that the average gradient of the land canyon to the coast is one-fifth that of the submar- ine canyon. 18 FIELD WORK A. DIVING SCHEDULE The observations reported in this thesis are largely vis- ual and a result of numerous scuba dives into and around the head of Carmel Canyon. General exploratory dives began in January 1968. These dives were made with the objective of exploring as much area as possible and to become familiar with its underwater topography. These dives were mostly made on weekends and were unrecorded for the purposes of this the- sis. The total area covered by these initial dives and the subsequent recorded dives was about 20 acres (Figure 5) . A series of 16 diving surveys were later made from July through November 1968. The logs of these dives are presented in Appendix I. All dives were conducted as a joint operation with Lieu- tenant S. R. Wallin, USN , who was conducting a study of the sediments in and around the head of Carmel Submarine Canyon. B. REFERENCE STAKES The first task undertaken underwater was to plant refer- ence stakes along the 10 0- foot contour and to measure the sand level and slope angle at the stakes. The 100-foot level was chosen in order to minimize the effect of sand movement by surface swell and yet be shallow enough to allow sufficient bottom time for diving. It was hoped that areas of sediment transport into the canyon could be determined from changes in 19 0IVE3 8,10,11, AND \% DUPLICATE THE PATH6 OF DIVES I AND 2 FIGURE 5 Chart Showing Path of Dives 20 «— »-i tn 0 4J 0 jS 0< 36 37 38 sand slope in the canyon has a vertically oriented pattern of fine lines on its surface, similar in appearance to rill marks, which are readily visible. These lines are probably caused by local downslope movement of sand grains by saltation and by abrasion by kelp pieces. This type of bottom appears to be an area of downslope sediment transport although the extent of any mass movement is unknown. The area between the canyon rim and Monastery beach is also composed of coarse sand. The depth increases rapidly offshore to about 15 feet and then becomes a broad shallow sloped terrace to the edge of the canyon rim in about 60 feet of water. An extension of this coarse sand bottom to the 100-foot level was found between Stakes #3 and #5 follow- ing a period of heavy storm swell (Figure 8) . The area had a strikingly clean appearance after the storm which it lacked prior to the storm. The coarse-grained sand normally has small amounts of kelp pieces mixed in with it. Many beer cans, wine bot- tles, and other beach-derived material was found here (Figure 11) . After a period of particularly heavy surf action in October, however, the areas of coarse sand were found to be devoid of beach-derived trash. In addition, some stakes driven into the bottom in these areas were canted downslope. Sand levels and slope angles measured at several stakes were found to be changed (Table 1) . 39 TABLE I BOTTOM SLOPE AND SAND LEVEL MEASUREMENTS AT REFERENCE STAKES (Location of Stakes Shown in Figure 6) 2 0 August 1968 STAKE SAND LEVEL ANGLE NUMBER (feet) 1.3 (degrees 38 ! ) REMARKS 1 canted sideways 2 2.4 34 3 3.1 32 4 2. 8 25 coarse gravel & pebbles 5 1.0 28 much dead kelp 6 XXX XX missed (poor visibility) 7 XXX XX missed (poor visibility) 8 XXX XX missed (poor visibility) 9 1.6 20 10 XXX XX missed (poor visibility) 11 1.5 24 at foot of outcrop 12 2.0 35 13 1.8 25 14 — out of air 15 — out of air 16 — out of air *The sand level reading is relative to a zero mark at the base of each stake. 40 TABLE I (Continued) 10 September 1968 STAKE SAND LEVEL ANGLE NUMBER (feet) (degrees) 13 1.8 30 14 1.8 20 15 2.7 30 16 2.4 30 17 1.7 40 18 3.0 32 19 2.2 45 REMARKS in kelp mat in kelp mat in kelp mat 2 November 1968 STAKE SAND LEVEL ANGLE NUMBER (feet) (degrees) 1 Stake down 32 2 2.6 32 3 3.1 32 4 2.9 35 5 1.2 32 6 1.5 20 7 1.3 22 8 2.5 15 9 1.7 14 10 1.8 20 11 1.6 34 REMARKS tube worm & fine sand coarse sand & pebbles coarse sand & pebbles coarse sand & pebbles tube worms & dead kelD tube worms & dead kelp dead kelp dead kelp & 3-1/2' bundle fine sand dead kelp rocks 41 TABLE I (Continued) 2 November 1968 (Continued) STAKE SAND LEVEL ANGLE NUMBER (feet) (degrees) 32 REMARKS 12 2,0 fine sand 13 1.8 29 slump position - dead kelD 14 1.8 13 dead kelp 15 2. 7 37 dead kelD 16 2. 3 29 dead kelp 17 1.8 38 medium sand - canted 18 3.0 37 medium sand - canted 19 1.6 35 medium sand 42 Another extensive area of coarse sand bottom is located to the northwest of the wash rock on the northern can- yon wall and terrace. A sandfall into the canyon at the southern edge of this area was observed several .years ago by divers (D. F. Ferrin, personal communication) . b. Fine Sand The fine sand bottoms are distinauished by con- taining numerous benthic organisms , Darticularlv the burrow- ing tube worm Diopatra ornata. It is not known how long it takes for these worms to establish themselves, but their ex- istence in such large numbers indicates that these areas are probably very stable with little or no mass sediment movement The tube worms extend about 6 inches below the surface of the sand. In addition to tube worms there are a number of other sedentary creatures including burrowing anemones, clams, sea pens, etc. The sand in these areas is very fine and easily stirred up by swimming. A small area of fine sand bottom is located imme- diately adjacent to the granodiorite exposure on the northern edge of the bowl-shaped canyon head (Figure 8) . This area is 30 to 40 yards wide (between Stakes #1 and #3) at 100 feet. The contact between this find sand bottom and the rock out- crop is shown in Figure 12. A larger area of the same type of sand and with the same benthic organisms is located along the bowl-shaoed region of the canyon between Stakes #5 and #10. This area is 43 o o C T3 (D •H El; c o B O -P O si 44 O") rH « D O H •H u V 4-> fO jg TS > M 0) Q I ,£ U