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. DRESS MAKING
REDUCKL) TO A SCIENCK.
THE
H
ri
.TEM OF DRESS CUTTING,
NIMK. E. \V. MALLISON,
Xlodiste.
WASHINGTON, D. C.
AxuKKSON «fe Moore. Printeks. 1886.
□ EniCATIDN,
Tn that gr^at army nf HrEad-lATinnErs whn fashion their nwn garniEiitS; as "well as thnsE nf DthErs; this bank is rEspsctfully dEdicatEd,
MADAME MALLISOX,
Washiiigtoia, .1^. C.
LTF96-C03C42
^VHATT I K?JO\V ABOIT'T DRESS-CUTXING.
This 1)ook is iiitondod to ex[)lain the principles of l)ress-('iittini>; and makinii' ;is set forth in the I'^clectic Lady-Taiioi" System, which is fouinh'd on scientific I'ules, and hy which any one can k^arn to ineasnre, draft, cut, haste, tit and make di'esses without further instruction. The system is Kt-k'ctic in its character. That is to say, it is made u|i of all the ^'ood points of other systems, coud)ined witli many original features of merit which my long experience jts a Mantua-makevhas taught me to he essential to the cutting and making of a perfect fitting garment.
This system is hased u[)on the theory that a perfect arm-liole is ahsolutely necessary to a perfect-fitting waist and sleeve and it is thought to l)e the only system yet devised that produces the ahove results without I'emodel- ing the garment aftei* it has heen put togetlier.
The question will, no douht, be asked "what is the difference between the Eclectic Lady -Tailor System and other so-called Tailor Systems", and we take great [)leasure in answering it. All tlie otlier so-called Tailor Systems that we liave examined are simply paste-board cliarts, having pcH'uliar shaped imitation squares printed ui)on them, and one being of no use without the other, and the whole being so conqtiicated, that, to a casual observer, tliey resend)le a Chinese map, and, speaking from my own experience, they are about as diiiicult to understand. Systems of this kind are a delusion and a snare to the unwary. The Eclectic System is a common- sense method of making a pattern for a dress or otliei' garment from actual measui'ements of the body with the use of a comuKMi Tailor's square and measuring ta})e alone. Accom}>anying tliis book the [)Upil will find a full size diagram, illustrating the mctliod of laying oti" a pattern ac(>ording to the rules of this system. It will be ob\ious to the I'ellectingmiud tliat any system of «h"ess-cutting, to be absolutely perfect, must be based upon actual measurement of the human body, for there are rai'ely two
THE ECLECTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM.
persons exue-tlv alike in si'ze and sliape any more than the faces von meet beinii' an exaet resemhlance of each other. Bat tlie difficulty heretofore experi(M]ced has been to make tlie proper use of tlie measurements after they ]ia\'e Ixhmi tal<:en in order to secui-e a perfect tittinii; garment. Hy this system you will disco\er a method of draftini; the outline of the diiferent j»art8 of the U'ai'ment from the actual measurement tliat will jM'oduce, when pi-()[)erly put together, a gai'ment that will tit })erfectly at the tirst trial. Fn fact tlu' system is so simple that a child of ten years ran leai'ii it. We know «,)f a case wliere a lady learned the system, and, lieing desirous of di'afting a dress, and fiiiding she did not have a sciuare liandy, iin[)rovised a square with a l)room handle ami measuring ta|)e, and laid ofF' tlie diagram and formed a perfect titting dress. Ladies will under- stand tliat when they learn this system they have n(^ further need of '^bought j)atterns." The money used- in the purchase of these patterns can he devoted to some other purpose.
After having acquired a thorough knowledge of this system you can saiVly guarantee perfect arm-holes, sleeves, bust, darts, curves and neck without re-fitting. Ft is simply perfection in its simplicity and practical I'esults.
To Drt'ysitia/:iTs : - rrofessiomil dressmakers will find in this system what "they long have sought, and mourned because they found it not." A simple method of Dress- cutting that will not rcMpiire re-fitt ing or alteration of any kind. .\Fany a dressmaker looses infiuential patrons l)y annoying them with frequent i^cMjuesrs to call and have tlieir dresses tried on. By this system one visit is sufficient — just to get the measure, after which you can seiid the dress oi' garment liome wilh the satisfaction of knowing that it will fit without any re-fitting.
Antaiear Dre.'^.'onHkers : F^adies in private life who fashion tlieir own dresses as a matter of [)reference or of economy will find in this system a great source of pleasure and profit. By learning the rides and devoting a few hours to practice every lady can become her own
THE ECLECTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM.
flressmuker, and be able to design and fashion dresses without the use of bought patterns. U\ these days wlien ladies have to depend upon their own efforts in a great measure to secure a livelihood it behooves them to secure a practical education, and tl\ere is nothing that could give more genuine satisfaction from many points of view than to l)e able to say "T make my own dresses." Young Ladies:: The young ladies will tind in this Rvstem the royal road to excellence in dressmaking, without having to ser\'e their time \\\t\\ a professional dressmakej' to learn the trade. It is the experience of many to work for months without any remuneration except the delusive hope that \vhen they haxc served their time they will l>e competent to set u[i in business for themselves. 8er\'ing an ap[)rentice8liii) to a dress- maker is Tiow no longer necessary. Any young lady of ordinary intelligence can learn by tliis system in a few hours time \w\\ to cut and make a dress from actual measurements of the body that will fit, to use that familial" trade-term attril^uted to the Helirew clothing dealer, 'slust like the |)aper on the wall."
WHAX XHK LAOIHS SAY.
Mrs. E. W. Mallison,
Dear Madam : I understand you contemplate publish- ing a book setting forth your new system of dress-cut- ting. I hope the ]-umor is true for I certainly think the ladies of the country will appreciate your efforts to make dress-cutting a pleasant pass-time. Should you need any recommendation extolling the merits of your excellent system, I would be pleased to add mine to the list. Very truly yours, Rhoua Pierce,
818 D Street, S. \V., Wa.^dngion, D. C.
The comparative ease with which the Eclectic Lady Tailor System is acquired is truly wonderful, and a recom- mendation of itself. I will testify to its merits with pleasure. Mrs. C. S. Hart,
2026 TT Street, X. W., Waslnnfiim , I). C.
I am doing most satisfactory work after taking a few lessong in th© Eclectic Lady Tailor System. It is per-
THE KCLKCTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM.
fectlv reliable aiul aeeurate. (Janiicnts made l)_v this svstom require tio re-tittiiiii' and no tryini; on. 1 i-lieer- fiillv I'eeoniniend it. Miss. .J. S. FoititHX,
72i» li^tli Street, X. W.. ]\'</s/u,>;/l(>t>, T). C.
[ liad l)een a di'essinaker for si'\eral years, wlieii my attention A\as called totlie Eeleetie J^ady Tailoi' System. After tlnn'ouii'ldy in\-estiii-atini»- it, I found wliat 1 have foi" yeai's endea\(»red to ol)tai)i, namely : A peid'ect tit- ting ii'ai'ment wliieli rcijuired no re-littiriii' and no trying- on. I cordially recon)mend it 1o any person wlio wishes to excel in this profession. Isabell Smith,
45:1 V Street, X. W., Wfis/rhu/fon, J). C.
!'re\ ioiis to my kno\\led«;-e of the Iv-lectic Lady Tailor System. 1 was a (h'essmakei' of lo year's experience, and hax'e studied diiierent charts and systems, all of whicli 1 found more or less faulty. My experience with "Eclec- tic" has heen a most happy one, as I ha\e never l)een ohliii'ed to retit a pirment. I recommend the system as being one of symplicity and elegnnce.
Mrs. E. Stratton, 285 I'a. Ave., S. E., Wa^ldnijton, D C.
I am using the Eclectic Lady Tailor System with the most perfect success, having never refitted a garment. I speak from experience when I say that the system is one that meets every possible requirement.
r^)f:ssiE J^eak. 204 E Street, N. W.. Washington, 1). C.
[laving given the Eclectic Lady Tailor System athoi-- ough trial and meeting with tlie most satisfactory I'esults, I reconnnend it with pleasure to all ladies who wish to perfect themselves in the art of (h'ess-nudcing. The system is easily ac(piired and is just the thing for |)rac- tical work. HattiI': M(AVit,l,
2120 4th Street, N. W.. \\''iy/>!n;/(<>n, D. C.
dudging the Eclectic Ijiidy Tailor System l»y its prac- tical work, I am prepared to say that it is perfection iu
THE ECLECTIC LADY TAILOR (SYSTEM.
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all its parts. Any person desirous of aorpiiring the art of dressnuikinij: should carefully examine its merits.
MaFvY P) hooks,
1010 4th Street, N. W., W^fs/un^/toit, 1). C.
PRICE LISX.
The Hclectic Lady Tailor System Book - Measuriuii' Book . . . . .
Ti'aeing Wdiecd . - . _ -
Taili^r Sciuarc ------
Two Foot Rule -----
Measuring Belt, metal - - - .
Ward's hest tape-measure - . - Instruction given day or evening, one hour lesson
Wholesale price-list sent t o agents.
The System, including tlie com})lete outfit, also the pupil thoroughly taught in cutting and tli'essmaking, and a dress made for yourself while learning, Terms, invariahly in adx'ance - - - *sl5 00
Satisfaction guaranteed or money returned.
Madame Malhson,
W((s/iui(jtoi(, D. C.
TOOLS REQUIRED FOR ORESS-MAKERS.
1 Pin cushion, full of pins ; 1 paper of Xo. (5 needles, for hasting and honing waist ; 1 papcu' No. 8 or 0 foi- hemming ; 1 tape line or m(MSure ; 1 }iair of large scis- sors, (sharp); 1 pair of l)Uttou-hole scissors ; 1 fiat iron and ii'oning Idanket ; 1 la[>-l)oard; 1 tracing wheel; 1 l»od- kin and piercer ; 1 cheap rolling-pin, covered with flan- nel ; 1 t;iilor-s<[Uare or yardstick ; 1 metal hell ; 1 nu'as- ure hook ; 1 insti'Uction hook ; 1 lead [lencil, and your fashion plate or magazine.
TO tirK ECLECTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM.
XO IJRAFT XHE IflEASLTRE OF ARM'S EVE.
The following dimensions will save trouble to any one flrat'tiiii]:: accordino; to this system, or any one who is unable to tiiul the heii>'ht and width of arm's eye diam- eter. The numbers ran,ii"e from the smalU^st eliild to tlie lar<i'est-size lady. H inches in circumt'erem-e i!;i\'es a diameter of 2 inches
7 " '• " ' 2f inches
8 " , " '' 2h inches 0 " ' " " 2| or 2| inches
10 " " " '8^ or Sfg inches
11" " " 8J inches
12 " " • u 3§or3f inches
18 " " " 4ior4f6iiu'hes
14 " " " 4^ or 4§ inches
15 " " " 4§ or 4§ inches 18 " "• " r>^^g inches
17 " " " o,^ or 5il inches
18 " " " 5|or5| inches ir» " " " 0 inches 20 " " " f4 or ()§ inches
Take partit'ular (^are and do hot c:et diameter too large. It would he much better to get it the width of a line smaller than larger.
PROPORXIOIVAXE. Mms^ire^ for Draftiinj Pl<ihi Hcsqtif or Ba.'^qae No. 1.
1. Neck [ 18 inches
2. Alan's eye 14 inches
8. Bust 8H inches
4. Waist .' 24 inches
."). Length of hack K! inches, ex. I
(). Under arm 8 inches
7. Length of front 18 inches
8. Height of dart .") inches
0. Height of hip .') inches
10. Around hips 44 inches
11 . Width of back 18 inches
12. Width of chest 8 inches
18. Neck to ell)o\v 19 inches
14. Shoulder .") inches
1."). Inside to bend S inches
l(i. Inside to wrist l(i inches
17. I'lijier arm 12 inches
1^!. Middle arm IIA inches
19. Elbow 11 inches
20. Lower arm 10 inches
21. Wrist 8 inches
THE ECLECTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM. 1 1
DIRECTIONS FOR XAKIIVG MEASURKS OF PLAIX BASQIE.
RilJe No. 1. NeA-k Measure. — Take a close iiieasiire <iut- side of the collar of dress, removing all ties, handker- ehiefs, &c., or take an easy measure inside of the (M)llar, as low on tlie neck as possible, or where tlie neck joins tlie body, or one size larg-er than coUai' woi-n.
2. Width 0)1(1 Iteigldli ofoD/i/io/c. — Take a tight measure, byj)utting the tape under the arm, u}M)ver the shoulder- bone to the place in which the sleeve is to he sewed.
•'!. Ba-'<t Measure. — Take a loose measure over the full- est part of the bust, close under the arms, and around the back across tl>e sliouldej' Idades.
4. Wai.st measHjw — Take very tight measure aivnunl the waist.
5. Now put on metal waist belt, and after fastening pnsli as low down on waist as possible.
(). Now pass tape across the back, very close under the arms, around the front and up over the shoulder; it is then fastened at the left side, back of the neck.
7. Now take length of. back from l)one at back of neck, to bottom of metal belt and note measure, then extend measure below l)elt to l)ottom of waist, which is called extension. The difference nmst l)e added below line one, after draft is drawn.
8. Under-arm measure is taken from tlie tajtc or aim- pit to bottom of metal belt.
U. 7,iength of tVont is taken from hollow of iiet-k in front down full length of waist.
10. Ddii hieasi/re. — Find the height of darts liy meas- uring from l)ottom of belt as high as desired.
11. Hip measure. '-Fro\\\ bottom of belt to bip bone.
12. Around A'/^v. — Pass measure around the fullest part of hips. If lady has liigii hips or wears large bustle, or lice versa, note should be taken and allowances be made in right |tlace.
18. Width of had,-. — Take measui'e across back from left to right to arm socket.
14. Chest. — Across front from outer edge of ta|ieat arm sockets.
12 TUM KCLKCTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM,
15. Loii^u'tli of slunildiM's, is taken from muscle Oj; lUH'k to })oint of shoulder hone ; note measure and con- tinu(» measure to ell)()\v, with hand held in ujiward i)osi- tion on chest.
1(1. Insi(h> to hend measure, is taken from uncU'i'-arm socket, to insi(U» hend of elhow ; note measure, am! con- tinue to wrist.
17. l"j>])er arm, \vith arm l)ent to expand nniside, measure lirst at U[t[)er arm, then at michlle arm, and aii'ain tiuiitly at elbow, then lower arm one-fourth dis- taiue from elhow to wrist.
18. Wrist measure, as loose as sleeve is desired.
19. Skii't measure, lace tape at bottom of belt, to toj» of riii'ht foot. Back measure same, with allowances made for bustle and steels.
SPECIAL RUIZES.
Never take measure witliout usinti' a belt, as you are likely to take back measure too lon^ij;, which will cause wi'inkles on the hi[)s and also across shoulders. Stiictly ohser\(' all rules in this book and we li'uai'antee a jx'i'fect lit without alterations.
The use of cur\'attu'es is to o-^t cncu lines. Unless y(Ui do this youj" seams will not he straight, which causes wrinkles. There .ire very few ^vho are able to cui've without the use of curvatures.
Always di'aw straight lines. ('ui'\e ex'en seams. Trace in the lines. iStitch straight and press seams open. Never wet seams unless youi" gcx^ls have been sponged. Don't ha\e youi' iron too liot; hear heaNily on tlie ii'on. 'i'o press the bust of a dress nicely, stretch it tirmly o\'er the knee, and pi'ess with iron into shape. When I say press, I do not mean ii'on.
NoTK. 'riiroughont the hook similar letters and figures of refei'cnce indicate correspt)nding parts in the draw- ings in the uccom[)anying supplement.
THE ECLKCTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM.
13
14
THE ECLECTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM,
Basque Xo 1, made up with double box plaits iu baclv.
DiREt'Troxs P'OR ^Making Plaits Ix\' Back ok Basque— Malce tlie same as Basque Xo. 1, only at end of extension in back allow from 5 to 7 inciies each side of back. If lady is short-waisted com- mence plaits 1 incli below extension line. To make point front and short on hip like cut on page 13, allow 6 inches in front and 3 -on hip below wuist line.
RULKS FOR OUAFTIMG PLAII^ BASQUE No. i,
ACCORDING TO DIAGRAM IN SUPPLEMENT,
I. Draw line 1 the length of square or rule, 8 or 10 iiu'ljes ahove the hottoni of paper.
'2. Draw line 2 ahove line 1, the height of luider-aruj measure.
3. Draw line 3 ahove line 2, the lieight of tlie diameter of arm's eye.
4. Draw centre line half way Itet ween lines 2 and 8,
5. (!)n line 1, h inch from edge of pa])er, make dot A; ^ inch fi'om A make dot B, half the width of baek- measure from dot A make dot (\ tVoni C take the widtli of arm's eye diameter and make dot D, take half the hust measure from A and make dot E. .Nhdce all the letters just the same on line 3 except dot H.
G. Draw line A straight up full length of back- measure.
7. Draw line B from dot B to the Junctions of line .\ and centre line, extend line B below line 1 the lengtli of extension.
8. Draw line C IVom dot C straight up to line 3. !). Draw line D from from dot D up to line 3,
10. Draw line E from line 3 down full length of front.
II. On line 3 to the right of E make a dot } of an inch less than one-fourth the whole neck measure.
Tiifi ECLECTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM. lo
then draw line straight up from dot J inch longer than one-fourth whole neck measure.
12. Draw front shoulder line from end of line just drawn to the junction of lines 8 and C. LTse curvature for front of neck.
13. To the left of end of line A, draw hack of neck, which is one-sixth of whole neck measure.
14. Draw back shoulder line from end of line just drawn to the junction of lines 2 and D, extend back shoulder line up ^ incli and slope down to line A.
lo. Draw slanting diameter of square from the junction of lines o and D, down to the junction of lines C and 2, and from (' and 3 to J) and 2.
!•!. Place point of square or rule on toj) of front neck-line, letting arm of square oi- rule cross the junction of line 3 and D, and dot for front shouldei' measure.
17. Make a dot on centre^ line to the right of line E foi' half the chest nu'asui'e.
15. Draw true waist-line, from end of line E. to dot ]) on line 1, and fi'om C to end of extension on line B, eurve rounding \ inch from D to (' to tit over hips.
19. From centre of curved hip line make a dot abo\e line 2 the height of under-arm measure, now cur\-e for arm-eye, from the junction of centre line and C down through dot just made, up through chest dot, thi'ough shoulder dot to tVont shoulder line, keeping arm-eye in an oval shape.
20. Now measure arm's eye from back shoulder line on (', and if too shoi't add to the front, above front shoulder line, and curve for front shoulder, measure front shoulder line and make back shoulder ^^ of an inch to every inch longei' than the front shoulder; if back shoulder is to short lengthen it l)y adding, part at top of neck and part in arm-eye. If front sboukler is too short nuike longer by curving arm-eye from shoulder dot to the right. In measuring arm's eye up to shoulder line, if too large, lay a plait between line 2 and centre lino. In curving arm-eye look at diagram.
21. To curve front line of waist, comniene ^ inch to right of line E on line '6, cross at the junction
16 THE ECLECTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM.
of line E and centre line, swell out for bust I inch 1 inch below line 2, slop in at height of dart to i inch to the right of E on waist line.
22. Make a dot on line 1 to the left of D the same dis- tance as chest dot is on centre line from line D ; measure the space between dot just made and curved line of front in four equal parts, for darts ; space between darts is found by placing il of an inch each side of centre dot, which makes the space f of an inch.
23. J)raw a line in centre of each space from waist line up the height of dart, slope front dart I inch to the right, and l)ack dart draw I inch higher than front dart, and slope to the right the same distance as front dart is from line E at top of dart, then curve for darts down to true waist line. If chest dot is f of an inch or more to the left of line I), add ^ the space to the back dart, if less add all. If chest dot falls to the right of line I), measure space between lines D and curved line of front for darts.
24. li inches to the left of B on line 1 make dot f. I the distance from line C to B nuike dot g. J incli to the right of C make h. The sjiace between f and B is for back, and betAveen g and h is for side-bodv, the sum of l)ack and sidc-bodv must not measure more tiian one-sixtli the entire waist measure; if the v measure more take the sur[)lus off the back, if they measure less leave it so.
25. Make dot i in ai'm's eye | inch to left of slanting diameter, place [loiut of curvature one-half the distance between dot i and l)ark shoulder line, and cur\'e down to f ; draw curve for side liody hy [)lacing inside of curva- ture at dot g on waist line, letting it touch the curved line of l)ark at line 2 ; now jjlace inside of (.'Ui'Natnre, at dot i, and curNC inside of side body to dot li, on true waist line.
26. ]^ow measure back, side-body, and front, on Avaist line and the space between the darts, and then from back dart to one-half of your wnisl measure, and make dot I of waist measure. Now take lialf the space from back dart and this dot, and njake dot J, and make dot
THE ECLECTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM. 17
K ill arm's eye, from one inch to one and one-lialfinches to tlie ri«:lit of line D, and draw liack line of front from K to J ; now the undt'i'-nnn u'oie must \)o the same size as from back dart to J, and always have your l^ack line of uiider-arm gore slope more than front line, so in this pry- poition-measure make dot I on waist line ojqiosite to dot K on line 2, and draw front line of un(h'r-arm gore from Jv to Land make (h^t m on waist line the same distance as J is from back dart, and draw back liin- for under-arm gore from i to ni. If dot m sbould come to riu'ht of line (\ mo\'e dot 1 near to line J).
27. Now draw hip liiic ]iarallcl with line 1, the height of hip measure below waist Hue. Kxtend lines A and E to l)Ottom of paper. Slope center line of dartsa little to the right from line E, the ontside lines of darts one- fourth inch each side of center lin(^s at bottom of paper.
2M. Mark dots B, f, g, h, d, 1 and m on hi]> line. Slope back line of l)ack from dot B h inch to right of A on hip line. Insi(h' of back is sloped from dot f three- fourths of an inch to left of dot f, on hip line.
29. Back of side Ixxly is curved from g one inch to right of g, on hip line.
30. Fi'ont of side Ixxly is curved from li one and one- fourth inches to left of h, on hi[) line.
31. Back of under-arm gore is cur\ed from m one and one-fourth inches to right of m on hip line.
32. Fi-ont of under-arm gore is curved from 1 one and one-fourth inches left of 1 on hip line.
33. Back line of front is curxt'd from J, one and one- half inches to right of d on ]ii|i line.
34. If too small after measuring all pieces on hip line allowance sliould be made in l)ack seams, if a bustle is worn; or in darts and side seams if the lady has a high Btomach or roimding hips.
After you have tinished your draft according to these instructions, you sliould compare it with the diagram in the su[)pleineiit io see if it corresponds.
18 THE ECLECTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM.
PUPIIv'S CAXKCHISIW.
By stiulyiui:; tliosc (jiuvstioiis and rcl'orring to your diagram assists yon to Icani tlie system.
Question 1. What is line 1 ?
Answer. It is wliere the l»idt goes around the \\'aist.
(^ 2. What is line 2 "r
A. It is the heighth of under-ann measui'e aho\'e lino 1.
Q. ;3. Wliat is liiu' :)'(
A. It is tlie lieiglitli of dianietei' from lini* 2.
Q. 4. What is centre line ?
A. It is halt" the distanee l»et'ween lines 2 and o.
Q. o. Wliat is line 4 'i
A, It is tlie lieiglitli of hip measure helow line 1.
il. C. Where i.s dot A 't
A. One-lialf inch from edg(! of jta[)er on line 1.
(I. 7. Where is dot 1^ 't
A. One-half inch from dot A on line 1.
Q. 8. ^Vhere is dot (/ '(
A. Half the widtli of Ijaek nieasiu'c from dot A on line 1.
Q. 9. Where is dot I) '(
A. The widtli of arm's eye diameter from dot Con line 1.
Q. 10. Wliere is dot Y/i
A. Half the bust measure from dot A online!.
Q. 11. Where is line A, ami what is it for?
A. From d(»t A the length of l)aek nu'asui'e.
(}. 12. Where is lim- l>, and what is it for ?
.\. From dot H to junetion of line A,a,ndeenrer line, and is sloped for middle of hack.
Q. U]. Wher(> is line (\ and what is it for?
A. It is straight up fi'om line 1 to ■>, and divides the back from the front.
Q. 14. Where is liiu' I),an<l what is it foi' ?
A. It is the sami' as line (\and divides the front \'\\)\n the back.
Q. IT). AVhei'e is line F, and what is it for?
A. It is straight up from dot F, and makes front line of front, from line 8 the full length of front, sometimes extending below line Ij iind also tvbove line 3.
THE ECLECTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM.
19
Q. 10. Wlien is it we extend it above line 3?
A. When it eomes more than one inch below line 1, then we divide the difference and put one-half above the line 3, and balance below line 1.
Q. 17. How do wo u'et front of net-'k?
A. Make a dot on line 3 to the right of line E, one- fourth inch less than one-fourth of neck measure, and draAv line straight up one-fourth longer than one-fourth of neck measure.
Q. 18. How do you draw front shoulder line ?
A. From end of line just drawn, to junction of line (' and 3.
Q. 19. How do you get back of neck ':*
A. It is one-sixth of whole neck measure, and is to the left of line A.
Q. 20. How do you get back shoulder line ':'
A. From end of back neck line to junction of line 2 and D.
Q. 21. What are slanting diameters used for?
A. The end of upper right would mark for high shoul- der seam in l)ack. The end of lower left marks where front seam of sleeves. The end of up[ier left marks where fullness at to[t ol" sleeve begins. The end of lower right marks dot i.
Q. 22. How do you find front shoulder nu^asui-e ?
A. By putting point of square or rule at front shoul- der front and long arm, touching upper slanting diam- eter and dot the shoulder measure.
Q. 23. Where do you makt' chest dot '!
A. On centre line to the right of line E.
Q. 24. How do you curve arm's eye ?
A. From junction of centre liru' and (', to nnder-arm measure dot, to chest dot, to shoulder dot, then up above front shoulder-line the re(piired size of arm's eye.
Q. 25. If arm's eye is too large u|-> to front shoulder- line, \\-hat do you do ?
A. Lay a plait in draft, bet\^'een line 2 and centre line.
Q. 26. H.o\A' do you tit shoulders ?
A. By measuring, and making back shoulder ^^ of an inch to everv inch longer than the front.
20 THE ECLECTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM.
Q. 27. AVliere is dcH t", and what is it for '!
A. It is one and one-half inches from B, on line l,and is foi' inside of hack line from dot f to junction of cen- tre line and line (\ or helow centre line and arm's eye junction.
Q. 28. Wlier(> is dot i>', and what is it i'ov ?
A. It is on line Kand is one-half the distance from dot B to dot (\ and marks the back of side body u[i to junction of inside l)ack line to line 2.
Q. 29. Where is dot h, and Vvhat is it for ?
A. It is on line 1, one-half inch to right of dot C, and marks front of side body.
(^. ••50. Where is dot i,and wliat is it for?
A. It is ill arm's eye, one-half inch to left of slanting diameter, and makes front of side body to dot h.
(^. -jl. How do you get dot i of waist nu^asui'e "r*
A. By measuring l)ack, side body, front and space between darts on waist line to where one-half of waist measure falls.
Q. 32. Where is dot J, and how do you get it ?
A. It is on waist line, and is half way between the back dart line and dot h.
Q. -}■>. Where is dot k, and what is it for? -
A. I; is in arm's eye, from one inch to one and oue- half inches to riglit of line D, and from k to J makes the back line of front.
Q. 84. Where is dot 1, and what is it foi" 'r
A. It is on waist line opposite dot k, ami marks front line of under-arm gore from k to 1.
Q. 35. Whei-e is dot m, and what is it for ?
A. It is on waist line, and is the same distance to right of 1 as J is from back line of dart, and line from m to i makes back line of under-arm gore.
Q. S6. For what do we use line 4 or hip line ?
A. To put down dots B, f, g, h, m, 1 and J, opposite of same letters on waist line.
(^). 37. How far to the right do you slope B, on hip line ?
A. From one-half to one inch, according to size of bustle worn.
Q. 38 How far to the left do you slope f ?
THE ECLECTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM. 21
A. Three-fourths or one inch, according to bustle,
Q. 89. Jio^v far to the right is g sloped ?
A. One inch.
Q. 40. ^Yhich way do you slope h, and how much ?
A. One and one-fourth inches to the left.
Q. 41. ^\^hich way do you slope m, and how much ?
A. One and one-fourth inclies to right.
Q. 42. Which way do you slope I, and how much ?
A. One and one-fourth inches to left.
Q. 43. Which way do you slope J, and how much ?
A. One and one-half inches to right.
Q. 44. Now v\diat do you do ?
A. Measure all of these pieces, and see if they are of the right size, if not alter according to the figure.
Q. 45 What do you mean by saying, " according to ■figure"?
A. If a large bustle is worn, the l)ack piece must be made larger, or if large stomach the darts must be made smaller and front sloped more.
By learning these questions thoroughly you can soon made your draft without the book.
RUIvBS FOR DRAFXIIVCi BASQVE ISO. 2.
This is intended for ;i slender lady, and has no undei'- arm gore.
1. Proceed asinplai)i l)asque, No. 1. Find dots t'aiid g as usual. Move dot f as mucli to the left as yon wish the back made wider, consequently mo\'e dot g to the left the same distance, in order to keep the sjiace between f and g the same.
2. Use curvature as usual, exce|)t that it is mo\'ed from one-half to two-thirds inches below tlie Junction of center line and line (\
8. To find tlie hack line of front, and width ot' side body, take the sum of back and front and s|)ace between the darts, omitting widtli of darts, measuring at waist line, and mark half the size of waist.
4. Take half the measure between this mark and back dart andmakedot J the same as for plain l>asq)ie,alsodot k.
5. Dot h is the same distance to right of J , as half the waist meagiire is from g.
22 THE ECLECTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM.
0. Now draw hip lino and extend A and E and darts, us in basque No. 1. Tlien mark dots B, f, g, h and J on hip Hne, as in basque No. 1.
7. Slope i)ack line from dot I>, one-liall" inch to riafht of dot A on hip line.
8. Inside of l)ac'k is sloped from dc^t f,one inch to the left of dot f on hip line.
!l. Uaek of side body is sloped from <;•, one and one- i'oiirth inehes to I'lght of g on hi]) line.
10. Front of side l)od_v is sloped from h, two and one- fourth iiu'hes to left of h on liip line.
11. Back of front is slo[)ed from J, two and one-half inehes to right of J on hip line.
12. Now measure on hi}) line as in bastpie No. 1. and make allowances accordingly.
RUI^KS FOR DRAFTIlSCi BASQIK Xo. 3, OR JERSEY BASQVTE.
Tliis bas(iue has but two pieces and one dart.
1. Outside lines arc the same as basijue No. 1.
2. ('ur\e in the back line one inch to left of dot A. -■). Dot li. one inch to riglit of line (\
4. hot i is one inch to left of slanting diameto]' on inside of ai'uTs eye.
5. Draw cur\'e(l lines from i to h.
(!. ('nr\e the trout one-half inch at waist line, and curve out oni'-balf inch at bottom of bascpie.
7. From the waist measure take the width of back ; the reuuiinder will all be for front. Tlie dart is gener- ally about one and one-half or two inches wide, and is placed directly in tbe centre of front, though it can be wider or narrower, oi' can be j)laced fnrthei' to the front if desired.
8. Dot .1 is the same distance from back of dart as
fi'ont of dart is from front. i:i. Draw cui've from i to J.
10. Back line is sloped one. inch outside of line A, on
hi]) line.
11. Inside of back is sloped two and one-half iiudies to
the left on hip line.
12. Back of front is sloped two and three-fourths inches to the right on hip line.
THE ECLECTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM. 2-3
13. The dart ends on lii[) lino, or extends in the small- est possible soani to the hottom.
BASQUK ?»Jo. 4, OR STOt T LAMES' BASQLE.
This has([ne is intended for a wvy stont lady only, and has two under-arni gores.
1. I'roeeed as in l)as(iue ]S^). 1. only divide tlie difler- enee from hack dart, and ^vhel•(' half the waist measure falls, in three e(}ual parts, and lap one line over the other on waist line, so that the hat'k line of hack undei'-arm i::ore does not fall any more to the right of line (' than the front line of fi'ont under-arm gore does to the left of line D.
2. Make one inch between the darts. Width of hack at w^aist line made a little wider.
3. If length of front falls more than one inch helo\\' line 1, put one-half the balance al)ove line 3 and add the other half to hottom. Curve the front of neck, from top of front as large as desired.
4. If arm's eye is too large, lay plait in draft, the size of difference between line 2 and centre line.
."). [n order tr» make front shouldei' line long enough, raise front shoulder line into neck and curve to proper size.
0. Now on hip line you slope back of fi'ont, one and one-fourth inches to right on hi]) line.
7. The under-arm gores are sloped one inch to right and left on hip line, and front of side l)ody one inch to left and the l)ack the same as in basc(ue No. 1. Xowmeasui-e and if too large or too small, add to, or takt' off, as the case may T)e.
Sp('( i(il RultS' to hr Ohserreil hi Stout T.aJiis' Basfjue.
1. The back nuist i)e cui'N'ed out a little, as the tlesh\- slioulders take u|) the length.
2. Take bust measui'e a little tight, and don't cut front of wovk (|uite so low. as the heavy bosom will drag it down.
3. The darts can be thrown ba(d< one-half inch furthei' to right.
24 THE ECLEOTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM.
SI.EEVE T*JO. I.
Sleerc Draff.
1. Draw line 1, one in.ii ubo\e bottom pajior, tlip lentrth of square or rule.
2. Di'aw line 2, [>ei'peii(lic-ular, two-thirds of arm's eye measure, at th(^ riu'lit.
;{. l)raw line '■], the same lenu'th as line 1. '
4. Make dot A. tin* width of arm's eye diameter from end of line 2.
5. Make dot B, inside to bend nu^asui'e. (!. Make dot C, inside to wrist measure.
7. hrau' centre line half way between dot A and end of line 2, tVom tine H to line 1.
8. Draw line A, tVoin o to 1.
0. On line A, | ineh from dot A, make dot d, f of an ineh from d make dot e.
10. Draw line 1>. from line -3 to line 1.
11. Ih inches from dot !> make dot f, f of an inch iVoni f mak<^ dot n,'.
12. ]Vow draw lines from d to f, and e to ir.
1-). Make dot h 1 inchaboxc dot (\ and put j^oint of S(piare at dot h, to draA\' line t<> f, lowei' ai'm of squai'e to dot (t. and di'aw wrist line 'j of wrist measuie and make dot i. extend fine at h \ inch and slope down to i.
14. Make dot j 2 inches from dot h, and hall" the distance hetMeeii dots i and j make dot k.
15. l)ra\v line t'r<>m .1 to ( i.
If). Make dot I 1 inch abo\e line 1 on line 2, and draw line strai^cht t(^ ciMiti'e line and make dot m.
17. One-thii'd tin* distance from dot 1 to end nf line 2, make dot n, and di'aw line straiij^ht to centi'i' line and make dot ().
18. One-t'ourth the distant'C from X to end of Hue 2 make dot p.
19. On line B to inside ot' dot f niai'k for (dhow, so that upjiei" sleeve is from 1 to 2 inches wider than under sleeve, make dot q, for upper sleeve fi'cjui dot f and i\ for tinder sleeve from dot u:.
THE ECLEOTIC LADY T\TLOR SYSTEM. 25
20. Now take tape measure and place shoulder meas- ure on dot n, letting tape pass between dot r and q, and make a dot where your neck to elbow measure comes, th(Mi (U'aw a Ihie through dot just made from g to line 1 for elbow line, then measure again for up])ei' and undei' sleeve, q for upjter slee\'e froiii dot F ; and r foi- under sleeve from dot g.
21. Draw line from dot m to q, last made, from o to r, last made, and from r to k, and fi'om (j to i.
22. Curve from d to p and n to m for u|)per slee\'e, and e to o foi' under sleeve.
2^5. (^u've a little so as to break straight line of inside of sleeve from d to f and f to h for upper sleeve, and E to g and g to j for under sleeve.
24. Measure for upper arm on line ,V, ami if too large or too small divide evenly on upper and under sleeve.
25. Measure for middle arm half way l)etween top and elbow from cui'ved lines, and divide youi' ditterence the same as upper arm.
26. Measure foi- lower arm one-fourtli the distance from elbow and Avrist. and divide tlu^ diti'erence the same as upper arm.
27. Now eiirve through the dots just made.
When drafting with a rule, observe straight dotted line on diagram, and draw straight line 7 inches from dot r, and H inehes to left. Tben draw wrist line to h. and make i, j and k, the same.
N. B. [n [>utting in sleeve always be sure to liaA'e outside seam of sleeve at em'\'ed side-body seam on line C and inside seam at tr;icing mark in front of waist at slanting diameter. Hold sleeve tight a distance of two or three inches from lowei' slanting diameter to left tlien hold in easy to slioulder seam. IMn sleeve in witli 5 or H pins first, then baste in by holding 8lee\'e next to vou. Sleeves need to l)e put in with care. Sometimes I am obliged to put tbem in 2 or 8 times before they suit me. For high top sleeves cut top of sleeve above line 2 and this makes upper side of sleeve much larger, ["''pper slanting diameter to left in basque draft marks where fulness begins.
'26 THE ECLECTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM.
SI.EEVE IVO. 2.
Sleece in One Piece. This sleeve may he made straight on the thread of the material, hut it lias a mucli prettier etiect, particu- lariv in plaid goods, and stretciies at the elhow like a jersey sleeve when made hias.
Rules for Drufthuj.
Draw lines 1, 2 and 8 the same as sleeve No. 1 ; make dot A, B and V the same and draw lines, also eentre liiie,and draw extra line one'third the distance from centre line and end of line 1, near to line 2, pai'allel with line 2. Two inches from dot B make dot f ; 1 inch from f make (h)t g.
Now draw line from A to f and from f to dot C ; let point of S(piare rest at V and long arm un dot g, and draw wrist line so upper sleeve is \\ inches wider than under sleeve at hack seam. ,\[ake dot j for uppper sleeve and dot h for under sleeN'e. Dot 1 is on the extra line, \\ inches less than one-half of line 2; dot n is halfway on line 2 and (h"aw line straight to centre line ami make dot 0 ; dot p is one-fourth the distance from dot n and end of line 1 ; dot q is one-half of elhtnv mea- sure on Ime ]>. Now take shoulder measure 'ott' as usual, and find where real elhow measure comes. Draw line from 1 to t^, and t[ to j and q to h.
The upper sleeve is extended i inch and shaped to 0; the top of upper sleeve is curved from A to p, and n to 1.
The under sU-eve is curved from A to o and up to 1.
Now measure as usual ; If top of sleeve is more than ,^6 inch to ex'ery inch larger than arm's eye, uppei- sleeve is just right; if under sleeve is too large, lay a plait in under sleeve; hut if upper sleeve is also too large, take off slanting from f to Aon under side and measure and em"\e as in sleex'e N(^. 1.
JERSKV SI.EEVE IVO. 3. ( Foi' dersey hasqiie, use basque Xo. 3.)
1. Draw line 1 the same as sleeve N(K I.
2. Make line 2, one-half of upper-arm measure.
•rSfi fiCLECTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM.
27
3. Line 3 is same leno:tli as line 1.
4. Make clot A for (lianieter, and di'aw lino A the same as for sleeve No. 1.
5. Make dot C inside to wrist measure, and draw line from line 1 to 3. Dot k is one-half of wrist measure from line 1, and draw line from A to k and curve in.
li. Dot n is half tlie distance between line 1 and 3.
7. Draw line strai.u'lit to i'.
8. Dot o is one-third the distance from dot n on line Just drawn.
9. Curve tojt of sleeve from A to o and to junction of line 1 and 2.
10. Lay niatcrinl double on line 1 to avoid seam in back of sleeve.
IL To sew sleeve in waist put seam directly under- neath the arm.
Directions for Making Wrapper.
This design is tight-fitting in back and Watteau plait; Mother Hubbard front.
Tliis can ])v made on ti.<;iit lininii'. cut the same as l)asquo Xo 1.
Make front '4 yards wide or niort' and shirr on tofrout G or 7 iiiclics beh>w frout o*" neck. Make Watteau from 10 to 1.5 iuches for full- ness in hack and fasten down to waist Hue, ^idebody sloi)ed to bottom loor20 iuelu's wide. Sew ribbon ends on uiuler-arni seam 1 V2 yards long and tie fuDuess frout. Material required for medium size, 11 yards of goods 27 inches wide and o yards ribbon.
28 THE ECLECTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM.
WIRECTIOIVS FOR POI.OISAISE, PRINCESS UREi^vS OR WRAPPER.
Comnieiice the same as l)a8c|ue No. 1 or No. 2, witli one or two darts. Cut your pattern first, as for basque, 8 inches helo\v waist line. Lay your ])attern on material so as to sloj)e in front 1^ or 2 indies h^low the hi[) line, so as to keep dress from I'iding up in front. Lay front and umler-ai'm piece on material so as to just touch on hip line. l)e sure and keej> 8traii>"ht on waist line. Now cut the desired leni;'th, from 24 to 27 inches wide at the bottom. Tlie fi'ont and undei'-arn'igore are in one piece. .'\lways take a small plait in your pattei'u below the waist line at back of front, so as to keep the fullness from falliui;- too much in front. The 1)ack is laid from 8 to 10 inches from fold or edii"e of i^'oods and (Uit down from 2 to 5 inches below waist line ; lay the 8 to 10 inches in a double box plait, ov slope out to bottom of dress if no [daits aiv \\-anted ; side body in same way. If plaits are desired, allow for the same next to back seam only. Be sure to keep pattern sti'ai,t;"ht on waist line. Slope your back and side l)ody so that your wrapper will be 2^ or 8 yards at bottom. Lon_«: or short coat can be cut on the same itrinciple, oidy not so wide at l)ottom; say from 2 to 2j yards wide at bottt)m, either with or ^^•ithout ])laits. Polonaise are the same. Back is allowed extra leiiu'th foi* draping. Tlie dressmaker will readily understand these allowances. The amateur shoidd prac- tice on cheap material until she gains contidence in lierself, as the old saying is very true that " practice makes perfect."
I'HE ECLECTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM.
^d
RULES FOR CrXXITVG STRAIGHT SKIRX.
Sew the breadths too-ethor without sloping, until tlie required width is obtained, which is generally from 2 yardi to 2^, according to the figure for an ordinary skirt.
30 THE ECLECTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM.
Re carot'ul in liH^ttiiiii' tlic |)roi)Oi- longth. Then lay tlie material t)n dia^'fain of hasijue and mark according to measurements o1' has(iiie Ixdow wjiist line, omittiiiii' the hack, which is ii'athered or plaited into the l)elt, and allow 4 inches lon«j;er for hustle and steels. One steel half \\ay from middle of hack, and the other one-fourth of the distance from the to}». Trace in the same lines as for hasque hidow wnist ; take out the same taper het^veeu waist and hi[> line ; this i>M\-es full width of hip measure, taperinu' into the waist without extra i)laits ; twt)-thirds of skii't should always he used for front, the halance fen' the l)ack. If a sham skirt is used, haste a [tiece of material <d' the same as the dress, and take it up with the darts, which will always >i'i\e a nice fit, and finish witli the a}tpearance of a yoke. In making kilt skii'ts the foundation should always he cut hy this rule, only two yards wide ; \\]c kilt }ilait should only reach to the- darts, proxidinii; hasejue is long enough to meet it.
RITI.KS FOR KEEPIXCi SKIRT BACK.
Divide tlie skirt in rhii'ds, two-thirds helong to trout, (Uie third to hack. .Vhout :2 inches more than half-way from the hottom of Ijack, sew j)ieces of tape 2 inches long in even distance to one-thii'd of skirt ; the pull-hack is passed through the loops and fastened in eacli end. Ruhher or steel may h^ used ; the latter lifts the skirt in tlu! Ijack, \\'hich re(piires the skirt to he cut ahout | of a yard wider, and 2 to 8 incdies longer in the hack.
FULL URKSS SUIT WITH COURT TRAIN.
The train is i-iit of thri'c widths of material the required length, heing stpiare at tlie end. and is plaited into the waist at hack.
When two materials are comhined in the dress, use hrocack' foi" c(,'nti'e of ti'aiu.
A hreadth or one-half hreadlli. act'ording to width of silk, is draped aroimd the hips.
RrEES FOR BASTIISCi A?«n MAKITVC^.
A hasting thread must he run on the waist line. Baste carefully, so that liuingand outside are perfectly smooth.
THE ECLECTIC LADY TAILOR SY.'=!TEM. 31
In 1)astin!j: up the waist, commence at the waist-line and go down. The most troul)lesome seam in the whole Avaist is the cnr\ed sidc-hodv seam, which conu'S next to the back. In hasting this seam on one side of the hack, commence at the waist line and go up, as in the other seams, holding the outward curved seam toward you.
The other side must ho j)inned at the waist line and at intervals u[) the seam ; connnence hasting at the top, holding the outward curved seam towards you, as in the other side.
Never run se\eral stitches at a time in hasting, hut take a single stitch, one hy one, about \ of an inch apart. Use cotton suital)le to material.
In se^ving up seams (h) not have the machine stitch too short, or it will draw.
Nick the seams so that the \vaist will spring nicely into the tigurc, and tlien press them all open, h' you wish to finish A\ith tailor-like neatness, turn in the edges and slip-stitch them together, instead of whipping the seams as is the general custom.
The above way of turning the cloth in, in finishing seams, is not suitable in heavy material, as it would show on the outside of waist after it is pressed. Neat over- handing is prefera1)le, and we would reconnnend it in all cases where goods will not fi'ay.
If the silesia,drilling or other material used for lining the waist is cut cross-wise it is less apt to stretch, ft is economy to use a good ([uality of material for lining, as a [)oor lining will wear out sooner than the outside goods, and (he result will be that the seams will stretch, and the waist lose its shape
No hook and eye pieces are re(pnred, but instead a belt should be put inside the dress, sewed fast to th<' whale- bone's to keo}) it in |)lace.
If whale-bones are used, casings must be cut on the bias, and sewed on loosely by hand ; ribbons may be used if preferre(l, but nmst also be sewed on almost as if ruf- fled. This to keep the bones in [ilace very tight. They must each be fastened in several places along each seam. The casings must, as a rule, be run about two inches
S2 THE ECLECTIC LADY TAILOR SYSTEM.
helow tlic waist line, and (dioiit an e\'on heigth with the darts all around ; under the arms they may be a little higher ; l)iit feather-hone is reconnnended as being cheaper and more durable, and is not injured by per- spiration or ])oiling water, and is very pliable and does not break or split. If the feather bone is used, cut the bone with shears into the desired lengths ; cover the ends tirndy with cloth ; attach directly t() the seams by sewing through the bone with a stitch.
A dress should n(^t be made so tight as to draw. The corset should be judled m as re(piiredand the waist should be fitted over it easily and without. wrinkles. The seams will stretch and fray out if this rule is not followed. Tlie same corset should l»e worn with tlie di'ess that it was measured and titted over, as different corsets change the iigure. A dressnuiker sliould make it a rule never to measui'e a lady o\'er old or ill-titting corsets.
Vehet, plush, hernain and other thin goods should be
lined with silk. The silk lining should be used with the
heavv goods bec-ause it makes a luuiter tit, and witli the
' thin goods ln>cause they ai'e tran8[>arent , and it will
have a more [(leasing etfect.
A good silk dress should also be lined with silk to matcli the dress in color. Surah or some inexpensive silk may be used. By following this rule when the dress begins to wear out oi' the seams to draw, the lin- ing is not visible, as it surely would be under other cir- cumstances.
\n making a close kilt plaiting for ti'innning allow two and one-half to three yards for every yard required. A close box-plaiting re(piires the same quantity. Allow- ance should be made for a kilt skill on the same princi- pie. _
Ft is well to use a nicked card to measure each plait, and keep them uniform.
For a gathered rufHe, allow one-fourth to one-half yard extra for every yard.
XHLlMIflll^C; AIVD DRAPIJVCi.
You should dexote a few hours evei'y day to the art of trinmiing and draping, in order to cultivate your taste. Draping can he easily learned by the use of a wire "stand" and several yards of soft material. Take any fashion plate that you please and drape the material after the design as near as possible. After a few trials vou will be able to imitate any design that you may wish to copy and also originate styles of your own.
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