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ELEMENTARY

FOR REGINNERS

CONTENTS

Chapter Nc

>.

I

The Desire to Ride

II

Approaching a Horse

III

Mounting

IV

Dismounting

V

Correct Position

VI

The Hands and Reins

vn

The Start and Stop

VIII

The Walk and Turning

IX

The Trot and Posting

X

The Canter

XI

The Gallop

XII

The Single Foot

XIII

Horse Psychology

XIV

"Stumblers*'

XV

"RUN-AWAYS"

XVI

"BUCKERS"

XVII

"Kickers"

XVIII

"Shyers"

XIX

"Rearers"

XX

Bad Habits

XXI

Analysis

XXII

Definitions of Words

[3]

FOREWORD

nPHE purpose of this condensed manual is
■*- to convey to beginners as briefly as pos-
sible the fundamentals of horseback riding.

When a person first becomes interested in
horseback riding, there are certain sugges-
tions and principles that should be explained
to the rider. Horses are creatures with minds
of their own — consequently, they often decide
to move when the rider least expects it. The
rider must be prepared ! Therefore, before the
beginner even mounts a horse, he should be
instructed in the fundamentals of posting,
and correct handling.

Not only new riders but old as well should
know the facts expressed in the following
pages. Many people — considered experienced
riders — know very little about correct riding.

Experienced riders — Check your riding with
the fundamentals included in these pages. Are
you a good rider? Do you ride gracefully and
at ease so that your ride may be the most
beneficial and enjoyable?

It would be impossible to go into detail on
any one phase of riding and still limit the
reading to manual form.

Therefore, the writer will consider his task
accomplished if beginners and experienced
riders alike — can gain a general summary of
correct riding from these pages.

[51

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littp://www.arcliive.org/details/elementaryridingOOrocli

THE DESIRE TO RIDE

When a person has a desire to ride, he should first
be interested in riding gracefully so as to better
enjoy this valuable form of exercising and recreation,
for if a person does not acquire the proper posture,
it will be very awkward and tiresome. Yet some
riders are unaware of these facts and the result is
that they ride round-shouldered and some even
appear hunch-backed. It is impossible for them to
ride with grace, or enjoy their ride as much as the
person who rides correctly.

When a beginner wants to learn to ride, he should
first be sure that he picks out a good stable where
there are safe, well-mannered, and well-kept horses.
Another important thing, when he rides the first few
times, he must be sure to pick a quiet horse, and
not be ashamed of an aged reliable horse for one
of that type will give him more confidence in future
lessons. I have seen many beginners want a horse,
that was too excitable for them, with the results
that they were either thrown off, or so frightened
that they lost confidence and all desire to ride. It
has been said that a person will not become a good
rider until he is thrown three or four times. With
this statement I strongly disagree, and the beginner
need not prove the truth of it if he uses common
sense.

Should the riding master, while giving instruc-
tions, yell or do anything to make the beginner
nervous — ^the beginner should ask him not to do so — ■
and if the instructor continues to do this, the begin-
ner should dismount, for there are still many good
instructors who have not forgotten that they, too,
were once beginners.

APPROACHING A HORSE

Never approach a horse too quickly, as it may sur-
prise him so that he will become excitable, thus a
temperamental horse is apt to kick or jump un-
expectedly. Even a trustworthy horse is apt to do
something out of the way if too greatly surprised or
frightened.

Always, when possible, approach a horse from the
front, walking slowly toward him, talking. This will
give him confidence in you. With an outstretched
hand slowly take his bridle rein. By doing this the

[7]

rider will be able to handle the horse a great deal
better.

A rider should always, before mounting, see that
the horse's girths are tight enough. Then he should
notice the bridle and bits, and see if the stirrups
are properly arranged. After checking these things
the rider is ready to mount.

MOUNTING

When mounting, the rider should face the left side
of the horse just about opposite the left fore leg. He
should hold the curb reins in his left hand while
grasping the corner of the cantle of the saddle.

The right hand holds the left stirrup for the left
foot. (If necessary, the rider can use his right hand
in aiding the left foot into the stirrups.) He holds
his reins snugly while being able to lengthen or
shorten them by a twist of the hand.

The rider then bearing as little weight as possible
on the stirrups, uses the spring of the other leg, the
pull of the left hand, and the steadying pressure of
the right on the cantle to mount. Any unnecessary
twist upon the body of the horse should be avoided.

When the rider has risen from his right foot, he
should get into a standing position in the stirrup on
the left leg, then lean forward and throw the right leg
as high as necessary over the croup, bring it gently
across the saddle, and down into the right stirrup. As
the right hand makes room for the swing of the right
leg, take hold of the right reins.

When you are in the saddle try to practice the
following:

1. Sit squarely in the saddle.

2. Keep the back erect.

3. Heels down, toes straight.

4. Keep the legs, from the knee down, as
straight as the back.

5. Keep the elbows in close to the sides.

6. Hold the reins in both hands.

7. Hold the reins firmly. Do not allow them to
slip through your hands.

8. Keep both hands about two or three inches
above the cantle of the saddle.

9. Relax and coordinate with the movements of
the horse. A tense rider has no muscular
control and often causes his horse to be
erratic and unevenly gaited.

[8]

"DISMOUNTING"

When dismounting the rider can use the reverse
action of mounting. Beginners should use the follow-
ing method of dismounting:

When ready to dismount the rider should grasp
all the reins in his left hand — in exactly the same
position as he did when mounting. With his left
hand he should firmly grasp the corner of the pom-
mel of the saddle. When doing this be sure that
the horse has freedom of his mouth so that in case
he should move while dismounting the rider would
only have to twist his wrist in a downward forward
motion to check the horse.

The rider then takes his right foot out of the
stirrup and swings his right leg up, while passing
it horizontally over the horse's rump, and then down
to a perpendicularly parallel line with his left leg.
When swinging the right leg over the horse's back,
the right hand should simultaneously be brought
down on top of the saddle cantle.

The rider then raises himself upward enough in
the saddle (by putting the entire weight on the
aims) so that he can take his left foot out of the
stirrup. In doing this he must keep his legs closely
together. Then, after getting the left foot free, the
rider lowers himself slowly to the ground. He should
be as close to the side of the horse as possible —
at the same time make sure to keep his torso erect.

CORRECT POSITION OR THE SEAT

The rider must sit in the middle of the saddle
with his weight squarely equalized so that the line
of his spinal column will form an acute angle to
the line of the horse's spinal column.

Next, the rider should at all times and under all
circumstances keep his shoulders on a parallel line
with that of the horse's shoulders. The rider's shoul-
ders should be thrown slightly backward, with his
shoulder blades flattened and his chest expanded.
This seat is maintained with the greatest possible
suppleness and muscular flexibilty.

TTie rider's thighs will have a slightly oblique line
from the hips to the knees.

The lower part of his legs, from the knees to
the soles of the feet, should be thrust slightly for-
ward.

[9]

The heels, under all circumstances, should be car-
ried lower than the toes. If this rule is carried out
it will help the rider to obtain an easy firmness
of the seat.

The arms must hang perpendicularly along the
rider's sides, but as flexibly as possible.

The elbows must, without the least effort, be in
practically constant and easy touch with the hip
bones.

The hands should be carried naturally without
affectation or constraint close to each other, within
a few inches in front of the waistline, and about
four inches above the corner of the pommel of the
saddle.

The forearms and arms, consequently, form a
rather obtuse angle.

The rider should use both hands, each turned to-
ward the other in such a position that the two
thumbs and second knuckles easily touch. The
hands are held, as if one were carrying a lighted
candle, with the thumb uppermost and the little
finger lowered.

The wrist must have the greatest suppleness and
pliancy, for without this the rider cannot have a
good position of the hands, which is one of the most
essential conditions for correct riding.

The ball of each foot must rest firmly in the stir-
rups. The one exception to this rule is when the
novice is cantering, galloping or jumping, and in
such cases allows his feet to go away into the stir-
rups, (or home as it is called).

There is an old saying, which goes something like
the following:

"Your head and your heart keep up,

Your hands and your heels keep down.
Your knees keep close to your horse's sides.
Your elbows close to your own."

This is a good rule to follow.

THE HANDS AND REINS

The hands and reins play a very important part
in safe riding — for with coordination of both one can
keep the horse in proper control, turning him at will
and starting and stopping him with ease.

There are several methods of holding the reins,
but I shall explain only two in this elementary book.

Horses are co-operative, and the majority of them

[10]

will do what the rider wants immediately the in-
structions are given. Sometimes quick decision on
the rider's part is essential. However, it is of little
value unless the rider learns to possess quick action.

Indecision tends toward misunderstanding between
the horse and rider, and is a frequent cause of
trouble, due to the fact that a horse is so sensitively
nerved that when these things occur he is very liable
to become confused.

If the rider learns to control his horse correctly,
the horse will, naturally, have faith in his rider's
ability, and will generally give himself to his work
quietly and confidently.

In addition to quick decision, the rider must know
something about quick recovery. By recovery I mean
the act of retiring, which should immediately follow
an action. A rider may be quick in deciding what
is to be done, and quick to act upon it, but he must
also realize the moment for cessation of his action
when it is no longer required. He must know when
to replace one order with another, or when to release
sufficiently for both the horse and rider to return to
the normal feeling of the mouth. All horses dislike
the rider, who has the irritating habit of pulling
indiscriminatingly on the mouth, or of any constant
meddling, which has no meaning. Many good horses
are spoiled by this habit. Some horses, when dis-
comfort is felt from the bit, will repeatedly stretch
their heads down in order to get relief, and then
it is difficult for the rider to prevent the reins from
pulling through his fingers, or to prevent his head
and shoulders from being jerked forward.

If the reins are allowed to sag, the horse is left
to his own desire, and he and the rider are entirely
out of touch in regard to communication from brain
to brain, or from hands to mouth.

To beginners I would advise obtaining a horse with
what is called a seasoned mouth. In riding a horse
with a tender mouth one should be sure that a light
hand is used — for if one pulls and rides a heavy
hand he not only causes the horse to become a puller
and excitable, but retards his progress toward be-
coming a good rider.

Many pages could be written on the proper han-
dling of the hands and reins and what we should
and should not do on difi"erent types of horses, but

[11]

to beginners I believe that the topic has been fairly
well covered.

A beginner should first ride a quiet horse, in a
walk, and slow trot only, also learn to ride with a
light hand. He should not advance himself until he
has mastered this situation, otherwise he will not
become an expert rider.

The novice rider should first begin by holding one
snaflSe rein in each hand, with the rein coming up
to the little finger of each hand and out between
the forefinger and the thumb, with the extra excess
of reins left on the horse's withers.

For beginners the curb rein should be knotted,
and it should be allowed to rest on the neck of the
horse, where— if necessary— it can easily be brought
into use.

To hold both snaffle and curb reins, the rider
should hold the snaffle reins as before. The curb
reins come up to, and between, the little finger and
the ring finger of each hand, through the inside of
the hand and out between the forefinger and the
thumb. Both snaffle and curb reins are held together
between the forefinger and thumb.

At first the novice should hold the curb rein very
loosely until he becomes accustomed to holding the
reins in both hands.

The rider should learn to use the snaffle reins with
a "give and take" motion. As the horse's head goes
forward, let the wrist move forward, and when the
horse's head comes back bring the wrist back. By
so doing the rider keeps the same even sympathetic
touch at all times.

The beginner should use the snaffle reins most of
the time. The curb rein is used only when the horse
becomes too spirited or unruly. When a rider has
to use the curb reins, he should do so with great
care. After getting his horse under control, he should
ease up on the curb reins, thus saving the horse any
confusion or possible pain. It also helps to keep the
horse from becoming too excited.

Even before a rider mounts, his reins should be
arranged at the proper length so that he has com-
plete control of his horse the moment he gains the
saddle.

The following quotation is taken from a recent
writer on this subject of hands:

[12]

"Like musical instruments, a gentle, skilled,
light touch, and we produce harmony; a
clumsy, bullying touch and we get discord."

THE START AND STOP

A rider, presuming he is a novice, carries no rid-
ing whip, wears no spurs and holds the snaffle reins
as already described. Therefore, he should have an
instructor with him who will actually control his
horse often by a lead rein.

Some beginners have a bad habit, when they want
a horse to start, of taking a tight hold of the reins
and, if the horse starts to back up, kicking him —
the result being that the horse receives two confus-
ing commands. As they are giving him the order to
"Go Forward" with the kick, they are at the same
time ordering him to "Stop" by tightening the reins.

When the rider is ready to make the horse walk,
he must give him more freedom of the reins at the
same time urging him forward. It should be so ex-
actly measured that the slightest move of the wrist,
and even of the fingers (in some cases) will be suf-
ficient to act effectively on the horse's mouth so as
to control the horse if he should do something out
of the way.

When a rider wants to stop he must lean slightly
backward, thus increasing the weight of the horse's
back, and at the same time with a gentle tension of
the reins simultaneously turn both thumbs down
with a forward motion. At the stop, the rider must in-
stantly modify the backward flexion of the shoulders
to a straight position, and at the same time release
the tension of the reins. The rider never moves in
his seat during this process.

In stopping a horse, the rider should first use the
fingers on the reins, then if necessary the hands
and wrists, and if necessary the forearm.

THE WALK AND TURN

The walk is the simplest of all gaits and, of course,
is the first that the beginner learns. Even an experi-
enced rider should start at a walk as this gives him
confidence in his horse and also allows him time to
studv the horse's temperament.

When a rider mounts a strange horse he should
walk him for a few minutes at least, turning him in

[13]

different directions and making him stop and start
at will. When he is satisfied that his mount is under
control, he is then ready to try a slow gait through
to the fast trot and canter. He must be sure that he
can control the horse at all times, and it is well to
remembea: that anyone can make a horse go fast,
sometimes much faster than intended, much to the
rider's dismay. This is the mark of the rank ama-
teur.

A true horseman never races his mount (unless
hunting or steeple chasing) nor does he provoke the
animal to a dangerous state of nerves by continuous
kicking, checking and pulling of the reins in the
mistaken delusion that one and all are admiring his
expert horsemanship.

When walking a horse the beginner should keep
checking himself to see that he is using correct
positions for reins, hands, knees, and so forth. He
should use the direct rein action in turning a horse
until he has had more experience in riding.

Direct Rein Action — If one wishes to make a
right turn he should exert a gentle tension on the
right rein; at the same time allowing the left hand
to move slightly forward so that there will be no
tension on the left side of the mouth. As soon as the
horse changes direction as desired, the rider relaxes
the rein tension on the right side and brings the left
hand back to normal position. Sometimes when mak-
ing a turn it becomes necessary to repeat the action
immediately and in a much firmer manner.

When turning never make any movement of the
back, nor should one twist in the saddle. Sit squarely
and lean slightly in the desired direction, while lightly
laying the rein on the opposite side of the neck and
pulling toward the desired direction. This makes for
better balance and a more graceful posture.

When turning a horse with the use of the legs;
say for example a sharp left turn, we use a slight
tension on the left rein and at the same time move
the left leg behind the saddle girth, using a gentle
pressure on the horse's left side. The right leg
should be moved slightly forward. In this manner we
give three commands in one as follows:

1. By the tension of the left rein we are turn-
ing the horse's head in the desired direction.

2. By the gentle pressure on the horse's left
side we are guiding his hind quarters.

[14]

3. By moving the right leg forward it helps to
guide the forepart.

THE TROT AND POST

The trot is, without doubt, the most popular gait
in horseback riding. It is one of the hardest gaits
for a beginner to learn and the rider will require a
good deal of practice before he will master it grace-
fully.

To make a horse change from a walk to a trot
we use the same method as in making him change
from a start to a walk. A very slow trot should be
sat to the first few times by novice riders.

The rider should allow his horse to trot just a
few steps at a time, thus enabling him to study the
new motion.

A very good rule for beginners to follow is to try
to sit to the trot as closely and as flexibly as pos-
sible, all the while checking himself to see that his
hands and arms are properly placed, legs firm but
flexible, the back straight, and elbows close to the
sides.

This should be done just a short distance at a
time under the direction of your instructor. This
practice will gradually enable the rider to keep a
correct balance on the horse's back and will also
help him gain more confidence.

As the novice becomes more advanced and accus-
tomed to the various gaits he should rise from the
knees instead of using the stirrups, which is neces-
sary at first in order to get the correct idea of post-
ing. The majority of people — many of them other-
wise good riders — commit the glaring error of de-
pending almost entirely upon their stirrups for sup-
port and balance. This had habit should be corrected
at the beginning for I need scarcely mention that
without a firm knee grip one will never acquire a
"good seat" nor have instant control of his mount
should the occasion demand.

A rider with more experience should ride without
stirrups as much as possible even when a horse is
going at a fairly fast gait. This eventually will en-
able him (according to his natural ability) to per-
form more difficult feats — such as jumping. It will, at
the same time, give him more confidence in the sad-
dle which will easily place him above the average

[15]

good rider even though the "Average" rider may
have had considerably more experience.

Another important thing to remember is to change
horses as often as possible. As soon as a rider learns
and likes the gaits of one particular horse he should
change to one whose gaits and manners he dis-
likes. It is not advisable for a rider to insist on a
horse he cannot control properly. He should do more
riding and when he feels confident and capable of
handling that horse should then try to ride him.

Posting — A beginner should try to rise in the sad-
dle by pressing the feet in the stirrups and at the
same time keeping his knees close to the side of the
saddle. A good rule for beginners to remember is
to rise from the saddle when the horse's right fore-
leg goes forward and come down on the saddle when
the left foreleg goes forward, counting up on one and
down on two. Posting requires a great deal of prac-
tice before it becomes natural.

A beginner should not have an early desire to do
too much trotting for if he does he will become
fatigued and at times too fatigued to do his daily
work. I have seen people get so fatigued that they
gave up riding in discouragement for an indefinite
period which, in most cases, means forever.

As a rider becomes more competent he should
rise from the knees instead of using the stirrups,
which he has to do in order to get the correct idea.
The rider should make sure that his legs do not
move back and forth uncontrollably. He should also
make sure not to clutch the reins on each rise.

Thus, when something happens to scare the horse,
causing him to jump sideways and run away, if the
rider loses his stirrups it would be impossible to
get the horse under control as he cannot sit close
to his saddle without the stirrups. Consequently, this
is one of the most frequent causes of riders falling
from their horses.

THE CANTER

The canter is a slow, rhythmical, "rocking-chair"
gait, the horse usually accenting this motion by put-
ting more weight on his forelegs. It has been truly
called the "contour pace" — for when ridden cor-
rectly it is grace and symmetry personified. However,
do not labor under the delusion that becaus* it looks
so simple it can be mastered at once, for in reality

[16]

it requires far more technique and poise than does
a fast rocking gallop.

Beginners, who are ready to canter, should first
try a fairly steep hill, starting to canter at the bot-
tom of the hill. The rider, when ready to canter,
should first put his mount into a fast walk so that
the horse may be alert and responsive to orders.

First — and this is a most important point — a horse
should always be put into a canter from a walk,
never from a trot. If he breaks the canter after
walking go back to a walk and begin anew. Next,
the rider should tighten up slightly on the reins,
lean obliquely to the foreleg, upon which he should
start, and touch his heels to the horse's flanks. (In
the ring riding should always start on the insiHe
foot.)

In sitting to a canter, the legs and arms are to be
kept in approximately the same position as in any
other gait. However, the torso is held in a slightly
less rigid and more concave position, thereby allow-
ing the rider to better "feel" the subtle sway of
his horse. Generally, one rides with a longer lower
rein, head closer to the waist with less play of the
wrists, as undue flexion encourages a horse to break.

A rider should hold the reins in a snug position
and touch his heels to the horse's flanks. When the
horse has started to canter, a rider must instantly
release any rein tension, so that the horse may
have complete freedom of his mouth — and using the
reins only to stop the horse's canter.

A rider must keep his legs continuously close
enough to use them in case the horse breaks, or
threatens to break out of the canter. The legs play
an important part in cantering for some horses will
pull more than others at the start of the canter,
thus causing the rider to use more hand checking.
If the rider is ndt ready instantly to counteract their
action with the leg action, the horse will stop can-
tering. This causes a waste of energy for both rider
and horse.

When regulating the canter, especially if the horse
is the least bit bent on going faster than the rider
desires, the rider should elevate his hands in order
to obtain flexion, thus obtaining the elevation of the
horse's head and neck, which will cause the horse
to slow down. In a canter the rider must learn to

[17]

obtain a greater harmony between hands and leg
action than they would in a walk or trot.

If a horse becomes excited when cantering and
wants to gallop, it is advisable to stop, and try trot-
ting until the horse calms down before starting to
canter again.

In cantering the rider sits close to the saddle (he
does not post as in trotting), and he takes a shorter
hold of the reins than when trotting. The rider must
remember that in cantering there is a much stronger
forward and backward motion in the horse's head
than there is in a trot; consequently, the rider must
increase the pliability of the muscles in arms and
hands to give the horse more freedom for cantering.

GALLOPING

In a gallop the rider sits closely to the saddle. He
shortens up on the reins more than when cantering
and crouches his body, thus shifting his weight from
his sitting position to his knees.

When the rider is galloping, he must never bring
the horse to a quick stop for this is dangerous for
both rider and horse.

When stopping a horse in a gallop, warning should
be given first by speaking and then gradually bring-
ing pressure equally on both sides of the mouth,
keeping the hands low and throwing the weight of
the torso slightly backward.

The gallop is a horse's fastest gait, but cannot be
sustained for any length of time. Habitual and too
hard galloping will break his wind, injure his leg
muscles, and adversely affect his slower gaits. By
the same token, too frequent galloping is fatiguing
to the rider and invites carelessness in the niceties
of horsemanship. A short brisk gallop invigorates
both horse and rider but should be followed by a
protracted walk, or until the horse has cooled off
and regained his wind.

THE "STEP AND PACE"
THE "SINGLE FOOT"

There are two gaits which are popular with riders.
These are the 'step and pace' and the 'single foot.'

The *step and pace' is a motion that is a little
faster than a walk. The forelegs of the horse have
the motion of a slow canter and the hind legs the

[18]

motion of a trot. This is not a natural gait for the
average horse and when he does it we will find it
hard to make him keep it up. When a horse is in a
'step and pace' motion we should sit close to the
saddle.

In a 'single foot' motion the horse moves his feet
in the same way as in the 'step and pace.' The only
real difference is that the 'single foot' is faster.

Some 'single foot' horses will do very little trot-
ting but will go from a walk to a 'single foot' gait
and from that into a slow canter.

In such gaits horses seldom trot and are ridden
to a "close seat." I do not advise their use by begin-
ners. In time a rider can sit to a single foot or post
to a trot with equal ease but the latter should be
mastered first. I strongly recommend the single foot
gait as a transition from the "post" to the tight seat
on a trot.

HORSE PSYCHOLOGY

It is impossible to recommend any set rules in
handling horses for they are as diverse in personality,
intelligence, and disposition as people. Never make
the mistake of understanding the capacities of your
mount. Just as in human relationships accord him
kindness, consideration, and a benefit of doubt —
and you will be the gainer,

A rider should gain control of his horse by per-
suasion, rather than obedience by force, because by
the latter he only receives a mutinous acquiescence
instead of a willing and eager compliance. The rider,
who demands obedience by force, shows lack of sym-
pathy and imagination and these two help enor-
mously for better understanding between rider and
horse.

A rider on a strange horse should be a little
patient in getting him to do as desired. I don't mean
that one should be too lenient, for then the horse
thinks the rider is afraid and he will try to have
his own way. By this I mean that a rider should
first start with easy methods of controlling his horse ;
such as with the direct rein action, and the proper
use of leg action.

If punishment is merited and necessary, the rider
should be more severe, and then the proper use of
a whip can be brought into use. When a horse has
gained confidence in his rider through gentleness

[19]

and kindness, he will do the rider's bidding willingly,
and in the best manner he knows. This willingness
will offset the little patience the rider might have
had to use at the start.

Horses have a sense of justice, and when punish-
ment is due, provided it is not too severe, they will
meekly take it and then proceed to do as ordered.
On the other hand, however, punishment undeserved
because they did not understand what was required
or the task asked was too great for them, will
usually draw forth a strong resentment. A horse no
more appreciates being yelled at, handled roughly,
or imposed upon than does his master. When riders
are on a strange horse they should first study the
horse to find out his good and bad points, and then
proceed to handle him in such a way to get best
results.

THE "STUMBLER"

One of the most disagreeable sensations when
riding is to be on a horse that stumbles.

Even the most sure-footed of horses will stumble
occasionally, but this occurs only when the animal
is fatigued or when it accidentally places a foot in
a depression, or rides on a stone. Poor horsemanship,
such as running horses down will also cause a good
horse to stumble but none of these reasons prove
that the horse is an habitual stumbler.

Some horses, through carelessness, will stumble
frequently on a level road and will not take one
false step where the ground is uneven or rocky. This
proves that when some horses know the footing is
secure they will become careless, but where they
know it is hazardous they will become more alert
and pick up their feet properly and place them with
great care. This type of horse is not dangerous to
ride if one has a good seat and the fault may easily
be corrected by the rider if he will give the animal
a sharp reminder, either by use of his legs or by
the use of the whip. If disciplined at the first stumble
the horse will guard against a second.

Often, when horses are walking slowly they will
stumble carelessly but will never do this when they
are traveling at other gaits.

A horse that stumbles habitually usually has weak
legs or is improperly shod, and when he has a rider's
weight to carry, he cannot lift his feet with the

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spring and gracefulness of a sound horse. This type
of horse is usually knee sprung or foundered and
consequently is past use as a saddle horse. (A re-
liable riding stable will not use such a horse.)

When riding, one must be on guard against the
possibilities of stumbling, especially if the path is
uneven, rocky, etc. (The rider should allow his
horse more head freedom so that he may lower his
head and pick out his own way.) In such cases the
horse's judgment and instinct are good but the rider
should have the animal under careful control and
should be alert to issue occasional orders and check
him should he start to trip.

A rider should always walk his horse where the
paths are obstructed with rocks, ditches, or macad-
amed.

When a horse stumbles the rider should pull up
on his reins to help the animal regain its footing.
If the horse should stumble and develop a lameness
it should be walked back to the stables. Occasion-
ally a horse may step on a rolling stone and twist
his pastern ankle. This usually does not cause seri-
ous injuiy and is not even painful to the touch. In
such cases it is advisable to walk the horse so that
the injury will not have any serious consequences.

THE "RUN-AWAY"

The real run-away horse is seldom to be found in
riding stables. His type of horse not only gets out
of the rider's control, but loses control of himself,
with the result that in his frenzy he is liable to do
something very dangerous; such as, run into a stone
wall, or gallop until he drops from exhaustion. Such
a horse has a mental ailment, or fright complex and
is extremely rare.

The run-away horse, which may sometimes be
found in riding stables, is in most cases actuated
by the rider himself. One cause of this is when a
rider is on a high-strung horse he inflicts extreme
pain to the horse's mouth by the continuous pulling
of the curb. Another reason is when a rider wears
spurs who is unaccustomed to using them. When
the spurs goad the horse's flanks it makes him ex-
citable and also irritable. Thus, only an expert horse-
man should wear spurs and he should use them only
on a certain type of horse and one that he knows
well.

[21]

Another reason for a run-away horse is due to
the fact that the equipment of the stable is very
poor and unsafe, or that they are too careless in the
proper adjustments; especially a curb chain. If the
rider does not observe these things he is very apt to
have a run-away horse on his hands.

Another case is when the rider tries to exhibit his
horsemanship by galloping toward the stables. In
reality they show lack of common sense and very
poor horsemanship.

Sometimes a horse becomes restless if not allowed
to have his way and makes a jump or two to empha-
size his desire to run, and the rider — instead of calm-
ing him to get him into control — will make the
wrong movement of his hands, in some cases even
encourage the horse, thereby causing him to bolt.

When a rider is on a horse that begins gallop-
ing because of fright, or some other reason, the rider
should remember above all else to keep a cool head,
keep his torso as flexible as possible, sit low in the
saddle with his heels pointed downward. The rider
should then do his best to gain control of the horse's
lower jaw, either by flexion if the horse is running
with a high head, or by elevation of the hands, if the
horse is running with his head low. If the horse takes
the bit in his teeth and even "sawing" is of no avail,
the rider can only try to guide him, if possible, up
hill or into open country until he runs himself out.
Speaking to the horse is a great help and as soon
as the horse begins to slow down be ready to yield
to the tightness of the reins.

THE "BUCKER"

One of the most vicious types of horses is the
bucking horse. They will elevate their backs cat-
wise on being ridden and indulge in quick jumps
with their heads very low. These horses are unsafe
to ride, and should be ridden only by experts.

Nevertheless, the best trained or best mannered
horse, if allowed to stand too many days in his stall
without sufficient work, may show his feeling by
cutting up a bit on his first day out. Reliable stables
will see that their horses have sufficient work to
avoid this, for the safety of the rider and in con-
sideration of the horses' general health.

When a rider feels the horse contracting his back
and moving his legs out of time it is generally a

[22]

rule that the horse is getting ready to buck jump.
The rider should then lift the horse's head and neck
just as high as possible and simultaneously urge his
forward movement by the use of the legs. Thus, by
keeping the horse from lowering his head while he
is convexing his back, the rider will be able to pre-
vent the horse from buck jumping. Even the horse
with a very strong back can buck but little if the
rider is able to hold the horse's head high.

When checking a horse that wants to buck, the
rider should not excite him by too quick a pull on
the reins, or too vicious a kick on the flanks. He should
use his hands with a gentle but firm pressure and
keep the horse's head elevated. The rider must keep
his elbows close to his sides. This is very important!

After the horse has calmed down exercise is in-
dicated to use up some of that surplus energy and
mischief.

THE "KICKER"

No one but a good equestrian should ride a horse
which is liable to kick. Sometimes any horse will
kick at another, but if the rider is alert and notices
the first symptoms of a horse that wants to kick and
attends to it promptly, it can usually be averted.

If one is riding in company, and the horse suddenly
puts his ears back, or makes even the slightest sign of
thrusting his nose toward the other horse's neck, as
if to bite, this should also be corrected instantly, for
it is the first warning of a kick. The first time a
horse puts his ears back, and thrusts his nose threat-
eningly toward another horse, the rider should speak
to him.

When a horse kicks he is usually in an ugly or
nervous mood and any tampering with his mouth;
such as sharp rein checking, only intensifies his con-
dition. Give him a light flick with the crop or a
slight kick, and a gentle rein lead away from the
other horse. This accomplishes the same purpose but
has a calming effect rather than an irritating one.

Other signs to notice are the switching of the tail,
followed sometimes by the elevation of the rump, or
possibly the simultaneous lifting of the hind leg — the
one nearest to the other horse.

If a horse is not checked correctly when he first
gives warning, invariably he will next time thrust a
leg toward the other horse, and eventually kick in

[23]

reality. A horse must be checked instantly for if he
is not he will soon learn to turn around and viciously
kick with one or both legs. The horse will get in
the habit of doing this without reason or without
the slightest warning.

"SHYERS"

There are difiFerent types of shyers; such as the in-
veterate shyer that will shy at every little thing it
encounters — for instance, a piece of paper, cloth, or
any colored object. Usually this type of horse has
defective eyesight and is not dangerous to ride, but
of course, a lot depends upon the rider.

A horse, which shys because of defective eyesight
should not be unjustly punished. With the reins in
each hand the rider should urge the horse forward
and, if needed, the leg action should be brought into
play. A rider should be sure his torso is extremely
flexible so that he will not be unseated by a sudden
stop or side thrust. It helps considerably if the rider
speaks to his horse coaxingly and reprovingly, at the
same time urging the animal forward.

Some horses are afraid of nothing except un-
familiar objects; such as a place where men are dig-
ging a ditch, or a boy on a bicycle. The rider should
ignore the horse's fear and compel him to pass with
the necessary movements — moving forward. The rider
should never allow his horse to turn and run away
from these objects as this would eventually lead the
horse to absolutely refuse to pass the object the next
time.

Even the quietest horse will shy if startled by some-
thing unexpected; such as, a dog running in front
or in back of him, or by noises from behind a bush
or stone wall.

At times a horse will merely thrust sidewise and
return of his own free will back to his regular gait.
In such instances no urging is necessary. However,
the rider should be ready to give the correct orders
if required.

If a horse shys at an object the rider should be
sure not to clutch at the reins and stiffen up because
by doing so it proves he is afraid and this tends to
increase the horse's nervousness. When in a group
a horse that is apt to shy will behave much better
if following another horse. A beginner or a person
who has done only a little riding should never ride
a real shyer.

[24]

THE "REARER"

Horses that rear should be ridden only by the ex-
perienced for they are generally highly-strung, per-
verse animals. An inveterate "rearer" should be
bridled with a martingale — and a horse who hasn't
this bad habit may rear slightly on occasion if
startled by some object, noise, or untoward action
of his rider but seldom high enough to throw or
unseat.

When a rider feels the horse rising he should im-
mediately loosen up on the reins, throw his body
forward in a crouching position with elbows out,
and bring his legs back along the horse's flanks
while retaining a firm knee grip. Lay hands on the
horse's neck, speak to him softly and kick him
sharply. If this does not have the desired eflFect, and
the horse rears erect and becomes unmanageable,
lean forward on his crest, shorten the reins to within
a foot or so of his mouth and pull downward. It is
sometimes necessary to use the crop on his neck, or
between the ears. Give the horse his head but keep
yours!

By moving the shoulders forward you should throw
your weight in the best position to lower the horse's
foreparts back to the ground. As soon as the horse's
feet are back on the ground the rider should in-
stantly bring his shoulders, arms, legs, and hands
back to normal position.

If the horse rears high and the rider does not
throw his weight forward he is liable to lose his
balance and fall back oflF the horse; then there is
the still greater danger in pulling the reins, which
causes the horse to lose his balance also and fall
on the rider.

When the rider throws his torso forward he must
have his waist flexible so he can automatically regain
his former position. The rider's thighs must not lose
close contact with the saddle and the legs must be
so balanced that when the horse's foreparts touch
the ground he can use them on the animal's flanks
to urge him immediately forward, and thus give the
horse no chance to rear the second time.

BAD HABITS

One bad habit that many riders have is to make
a "clucking" sound with the tongue. This habit is

[25]

very dangerous — especially in group riding. For ex-
ample, if one of the riders should be adjusting his
stirrups or otherwise occupied and was not paying
close attention to his horse or to the rest of the
group — and someone should make this sound — his
horse may start up very quickly. When one per-
son makes this sound — intending, of course, for his
horse only to move more rapidly — all the other
horses may start up too. Consequently, riders may
easily be thrown from their horses if not prepared.

Another very bad habit that many beginners have
is to shake the reins to make the horse move. The
correct movement, when the reins are held properly,
should consist of just a slight motion of the hands
and wrists and the use of the legs on the horse's
flanks. When a rider shakes the reins this noise may
give the horse a bad scare and he is very apt to start
up quickly — causing the rider to be thrown off bal-
ance. Shaking the reins may also cause the other
horses close by to start quickly.

A rider should never run a horse down a hill. This
is a very dangerous habit and shows lack of horse-
manship.

When a rider is riding alone he may do as his
best judgment commands — he may ride fast if he
wishes, but when approaching a group of riders he
should never come along at a fast gait for this ex-
cites the other horses, and they may all start to gal-
lop. Neither should a rider go so close that he
touches einother horse, for riders have been quite
badly bruised by other riders knocking against them.

A rider should consider the interests of those with
whom he rides, perhaps many less fortunate than
himself in ability and courage. He should help them
by handling his horse so as to assure them of safety.

A rider should offer his assistance to others when
needed. For example, if another rider's horse refuses
to pass a certain object the first rider should take
the lead — thus making it easier for the other horses
to follow.

Some riders have no regard for their fellow riders,
and pay no attention to the proper etiquette while
on horseback. This is the type of rider that will
gallop his horse from start to finish, and they should
not be allowed to ride.

In order not to tire the horse a rider should start
in a walk, then a trot, and alternate back to a walk;

[26]

then a little cantering if desired. He should change
the gaits of the horse, and let him walk at intervals.
When this method of riding is used, the horse will
always work with more interest and will not become
fatigued.

The last part of a ride, especially in hot weather,
should be in a walk, so that the horse will be cool
when returning to the stables.

ANALYSIS

Analysis plays an important part in learning to
ride properly. It is as much a science as geometry,
one of whose basic laws reads "a straight line is the
shortest distance between two points." It might well
be said of riding that "the straightest and shortest
route to horsemanship is the intelligent application
of rules." If a novice will watch an experienced
rider — one who rides correctly — and analyze his man-
ner of riding — the beginner will pick up many good
points on proper riding. Then if the beginner will
compare his way of riding with that of the real horse-
man he can readily see where he may improve.

One great fault with amateurs when watching good
riders perform is that they take an absolutely wrong
attitude — believing that they will never be able to
master it. Naturally, any beginner with this attitude
cannot become an accomplished rider. Confidence
helps immeasurably!

When analyzing the riding of an expert — check
his manner of riding with the fundamental rules out-
lined in this book. Ascertain whether or not the pos-
ture of the rider under scrutiny is correct. Notice
his method of handling the horse, and if the animal
obeys the rider's commands implicitly. If the rider's
posture on horseback does not conform to these rules
the onlooker must see how it differs, also in what
way this rider's faults are comparable with his own.

Of course, when even a good rider is on a green
or vicious horse, these rules cannot always apply.
The posture of his legs, hands, and torso may seem
incorrect to the beginner, according to the sugges-
tions in this book, but it may be perfectly correct
under unusual circumstances.

A beginner must visualize how he looks on horse-
back. If he has been watching a good rider, he
should try to emulate him; if he has been watch-
ing a poor rider, he should look to his own riding to

[27]

make sure he does not acquire the other's faults,
thus prolonging his progress toward finished riding.

If a beginner becomes discouraged after riding
once or twice, he should proceed immediately, with
renewed energy, to overcome his faults. This is the
only way to become a good rider.

In conclusion I wish to impress upon the mind of
anyone who rides, that no matter how much one
does ride there is always something new to learn —
one of the great reasons why riding is so interest-
ing and enjoyable.

[28]

DEFINITIONS OF WORDS AND TERMS

Aids — The guiding and controlling powers of a rider
over his horse other than by the bit.

Bars of the mouth — Parts of a horse's gums where
there are no teeth.

Blunts — Spurs which have no wheel or spikes.

Bucking — The action of a horse when he arches
his back and jumps with all four feet off the
ground.

Collect — To get a horse to pull itself together men-
tally and physically.

Feel of mouth — The method of communicating with
the horse's understanding by way of its mouth.

Fresh — A term given to a horse that is lively and
gay.

Frog — The V-shaped part in the hollow underneath
the horse's hoof.

Girth — Saddle band which encircles belly of the
horse.

Hacking — Going at an easy pace.

Hands — A measure equalling four inches. (Height
of horse is always given in "hands.")

Head of a cross saddle — The arch in front.

Head-collar — The headgear that is used on a horse
when in stable.

Horsemanship — The art of horse management.

Independent seat — The art of sitting close to the
saddle without depending on legs, feet, or hands.

Knee-rolls — On some cross saddles the thickened
parts of the side flaps are in front of the knees.

Knuckle over — A stumble with a hind foot.

Leg-of-rider — The lower leg only.

[29]

Manners of horse — The horse's easy and willing
compliance with the wishes of the rider.

Martingale — Contrivance intended to prevent a
horse from throwing his head up, stretching it
out too far, or from rearing.

Near side — The left side of a horse.

Off side — The right side of a horse.

Pommel — The uppermost and fixed crutch of a

cross saddle.
Port — The center part of a curb bit when it is in

the form of an arch.

Puller — A horse on which the rider cannot obtain
mouth control without forcible methods. Such a
horse is not recommended for group riding un-
less in the lead.

Rearing — The action of a horse when he stands
upon his hind legs.

Sitting tight — Simply to say the rider who does not
post to a trot. This is the action of a rider when
the horse is trotting, and which refuses to allow
himself to be rocked into the rise and fall. This
applies to riders who are able to remain in their
saddle under any difi&culties.

Slack reins — ^Those reins which sag instead of form
a straight line between the horse's mouth and
the rider's hands.

Stirrup bar — Metal contrivance from which a stirrup
leather hangs.

Stretching — The action of a horse who repeatedly
stretches out his head.

Take off — The action of a springing from the
ground to clear a jump.

Tree of saddle — The frame on which a saddle is
built.

Withers — Portion of a horse's back above the rear
part of his shoulder blades.

[30}

Cantle — ^The comer piece; hindbow of a saddle.

Croup — ^The croup is the part of horse behind the
saddle.

Snaffle bit — ^A bit consisting of a joint in the mid-
dle and rings at the ends.

Curb bit — ^A bit consisting of one mouth piece.

Curb chain — ^The chain that belongs to a curb bit
bridle and is used in restraining a horse.

[31]

Rates for private — group classes — and membership
to the Spur Club may be obtained by calling

MR. ALBERT J. ROCHETTE

Center Newton 3101

50 Cents Per Copy

[32]