THE ENGLISH
VEGETABLE
GARDEN

COUNTRY
®5LIFEW
LIBRARY

Main Lib.

LIBRARY

OF THE

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA.

THE ENGLISH VEGETABLE GARDEN

DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE
D1V. OF AGH L EDVCAfiON

-p

OF THE

UNIVERSITY

OF

THE " COUNT RT LIFE
LIBRARY

THE ENGLISH
VEGETABLE GARDEN

WRITTEN BY EXPERTS

LONDON : PUBLISHED AT THE OFFICES OF
"COUNTRY LIFE," LTD., TAVISTOCK STREET,
COVENT GARDEN, W.C., AND BY GEORGE
NEWNES LTD., SOUTHAMPTON STREET,
STRAND, W.C. NEW YORK: CHARLES
SCRIBNER'S SONS

DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE
D1V. OF AGR'L EDVCAT1ON

13'.

INTRODUCTION

NONE of the products of the garden have a greater
value than vegetables, if these are cooked and
eaten while fresh ; if, however, their transit from
the garden to the table is delayed, as inevitably it
must be when the vegetables have to pass through
the hands of several dealers before they finally
reach the consumer, they lose some at least of
their best qualities. There is no comparison,
either as regards their palatableness or health-
giving qualities, between vegetables freshly
gathered and those that have passed through the
hands of the grower and the wholesale salesman and
are finally bought from the greengrocer. Every
one then who has a garden, even if it is small,
should devote at least a part of it to the culti-
vation of vegetables ; he will be the gainer thereby
in more ways than one.

The aim of this book is to show how any one

1880

vi INTRODUCTION

having the land at disposal may produce his own
vegetables, and by storing through the winter
and by forcing, in addition to growing the
summer crops in the open garden, may have good
home-grown produce on the table the whole
year round. They who delight in growing
vegetables for exhibition will find the special
methods of cultivation fully described, while those
interested in the rarer vegetables (many of which,
although most palatable and even delicious, are
sadly neglected), in herbs and salads, may consult
the following pages with advantage. It is not
always wise to recommend new varieties of
vegetables, even though they are put on the
market with a flourish of trumpets, so that in the
various chapters and tables only those are men-
tioned which, after trial, have been found to be
superior to certain existing sorts, in some way
or another. Older varieties still worth growing
have not, of course, been omitted.

While the value of fresh, home-grown vege-
tables cannot be too strongly impressed upon the
public mind, it must not be forgotten that they
are easily spoilt by bad cooking. It is notorious

INTRODUCTION vii

how little variety there is in the English methods
of cooking vegetables, and it is questionable
whether even those in common practice are
calculated to bring about the best results. In
the hope that they may serve, if not to abolish
at least to ameliorate some of the crude present-
day methods of cooking vegetables, and perhaps
to induce a trial of other ways, chapters upon the
subject are included : they contain a description
of the methods practised by the best French
and English cooks.

It is hoped that the tabulated lists towards
the end of the book, stating the time to sow seed
and to plant, and giving the best varieties of each
kind of vegetable, will be found useful. They
contain much information in a small space and
this is presented in such a form that the reader
may comprehend it almost at a glance.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER FAOE

I. FORMATION OF THE KITCHEN GARDEN i

II. POPULAR VEGETABLES - 23

III. THE HERB GARDEN - 133

IV. VEGETABLES NEGLECTED IN ENGLISH GARDENS - 138
V. VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION - 146

VI. SALADS - - 197

VII. VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES - - 206

VIII. COOKING VEGETABLES - 288

IX. FRENCH COOKERY OF VEGETABLES - - 309

X. GATHERING, STORING AND PACKING OF VEGE-
TABLES - - - 336

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

VEGETABLE MARROWS UNDER GLASS -
DIAGRAM SHOWING HOW TO TRENCH -
PLAN OF KITCHEN GARDEN
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES -
BROAD BEANS : CARTER'S LEVIATHAN
BRUSSELS SPROUTS : RIDGEWELL'S CAM-
BRIDGE CHAMPION
CABBAGE : WYTHES' EARLY GEM
CAULIFLOWER : KING OF CAULIFLOWERS
CUCUMBER : HOUSE OF SATISFACTION
A PROFITABLE MUSHROOM HOUSE
THE COMMON MUSHROOM
POTATO : EARLY PURITAN
FORCING RHUBARB, WITH THE AID OF AN

OLD BARREL AND MANURE -
SEAKALE FORCED IN Box IN MUSHROOM

HOUSE

A TYPICAL TOMATO HOUSE
CUSTARD MARROW : IMPROVED WHITE AND

PRINCE ALBERT -

A COLLECTION OF EXHIBITION VEGETABLES
GLOBE ARTICHOKES
BEAN : THE GREEN LONGPOD -
How RUNNER BEANS ARE STAKED
CELERY QUARTERS IN LORD ALDENHAM'S
GARDENS -

xi

- Frontispiece
Page 8

,1 ii
Facing page 16

»» 32

» 33

» So

» 5

„ 62

„ 63

» 70

» 74

i> 75

,, 96

.1 97

ii 112

» 113

ii T3°

xii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

A GOOD BED OF ONION : AILSA CRAIG - Facing page 142

PEA : EDWIN BECKETT - ,, „ 143

CABBAGE MOTH Page 207
CLUBBING IN CABBAGES, AND FINGER-AND-

TOE IN TURNIPS- ,, 217

CARROT FLY - ,,223

CELERY FLY - ,,229

ONION FLY - „ 233

ONION MILDEW „ 237

PEA THRIPS - ,, 243

BEAN AND PEA BEETLES - ,,247

POTATO DISEASE - ,,254

POTATO SCAB - ,,259

TOMATO SLEEPING DISEASE ,, 266

TOMATO BLACK SPOT „ 270

TURNIP FLEA - ,,278

CLICK BEETLES AND WIREWORMS - 286

<aAJRT^

OF THE

UNIVERSITY

OF

CHAPTER I.

FORMATION OF THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

SEVERAL important points must be considered before
beginning to make a kitchen garden. The work is
permanent, as the kitchen garden should last for
generations and under right management continue to
produce satisfactory crops over a long period. Scamp-
ing will result in failure. A solid foundation must be
laid.

Situation. — This has a great influence upon the
successful culture of vegetables, and too much con-
sideration cannot be given to the selection of a suitable
site. To some extent the climate and natural conditions
of the district in which one is placed will govern the
choice of position. Jt will be well, however, to con-
sider first the general principles that should underlie
the making of a kitchen garden. It must not be
formed altogether on sloping ground, although some
portion of it should be. On a slope the crops will
probably suffer from want of water during a dry
summer, for instead of remaining within reach of the
roots of the vegetables, the water will drain away to
the foot of the land. Make a point therefore of choos-
ing a piece of land that is not all sloping. The object

2 FORMATION OF KITCHEN GARDEN

of having a certain portion of the kitchen garden on
sloping ground is to make provision for the cultivation
of an early supply of vegetables, as a sloping south
border is more easily and quickly warmed by the sun
than level ground. It may not, however, be easy for
the maker of a kitchen garden to procure a piece of
land that has both the advantages mentioned, but
rather than not have the greater part of the land level,
one should dispense with the sloping portion, for a
border facing south can always be raised somewhat to
make it warmer and more suitable for the culture of
early vegetables. If the land upon which the kitchen
garden is to be made is heavy, a slight natural slope
would be an advantage, as in a great measure it would
prevent the ground remaining wet and cold. On the
other hand, light and porous land from which water
readily passes off should on no account be even slightly
sloping.

Except in the southern counties the kitchen garden
should face south. In these exceptionally favoured
districts full exposure to the summer sun would per-
haps be a disadvantage, especially in unusually hot and
dry seasons. Watering would entail much labour.
Rather than face due south, the kitchen garden should
in these cases face south-west.

The kitchen garden should be of oblong shape,
and its greatest length from east to west, not from
north to south, thus there will be a greater surface
of beds exposed to the south than if the garden were
longer from north to south. The beds facing south in

SITUATION 3

that case would be narrow, and those with an eastern
and western aspect the more extensive. This would
not be at all desirable, as sunlight is essential. The
weather cannot be depended upon in this country, and
spring is often a treacherous season ; this is the most
important time in the kitchen garden, for then the
majority of seeds are being sown and most of the
plants got in. There is no more powerful stimulant to
growth than sunlight. Shelter is a matter that must not
be overlooked, and no better shelter can be wished for
than that of hills and trees. It is always well to notice
if there are hills in the neighbourhood offering a pro-
tection to the garden from the north and east, for such
a protection is valuable. To form a kitchen garden in
a position entirely unprotected by either trees or hills
is unwise. Although trees may be planted, many years
must pass before they are of use. Where plenty of large
and established trees such as Elms, Beeches, Oaks and
Limes already exist there will be no need for further
planting, but where these are not numerous, perhaps
existing as isolated specimens here and there, more
planting should be done. The best trees for shelter
outside the kitchen garden are Lombard y Poplars,
Austrian Pines, Limes and Larches. The Poplars,
Limes and Larches are, of course, deciduous, but if
planted close together soon form a good screen. The
points at which shelter is most required are the north
and east. It is from these quarters that the cold cut-
ting winds blow in the spring, and the tree shelters are
more necessary for protection from these winds than for

4 FORMATION OF KITCHEN GARDEN

any other purpose. Shade is not required, so plant
away from the trees. And there is another disadvan-
tage, viz., the tree roots rob the soil of that good-
ness necessary for the vegetables.

When possible a good eight or nine feet wall is
what is required, and before making the garden visit
one or more of the many splendid kitchen gardens
that exist in this country.

'The Soil. — When considering the selection of a
suitable site for the kitchen garden, bear in mind the
importance of having land that either is or can easily
be made suitable for the purpose. Soil, however, can
be ameliorated by skilful treatment, situation cannot.
The best soil for a kitchen garden is a good depth of
rich loam, with a porous subsoil that allows superfluous
moisture to pass away gradually. Soils in which either
clay or gravel greatly preponderates should be avoided,
for to bring either into a condition to produce satis-
factory crops of vegetables would take a considerable
time. Clayey soil has the disadvantage during late
autumn, winter and early spring of becoming wet
and cold and is therefore altogether unsuitable for
the vegetables. Such land is also difficult to till ; it
quickly becomes wet and sticky after even a little rain,
and to either trench or dig ground when in this con-
dition is almost impossible. When dry the masses
of soil are hard and crack, making it impossible for
roots to live. Gravelly soil also has serious disad-
vantages, it is dry and " hungry". To ensure even
a moderate crop from it much water and manure are

THE SOIL 5

needful as most of the moisture it may receive, either
by rain or artificially, passes away without greatly bene-
fiting the crops ; thus watering and mulching become
essential. A gravelly soil is naturally wanting in plant
food, so that roots of plants must be nourished by
manures artificially given. Light and poor land, such
as that under consideration might well be called, is ex-
pensive to cultivate, and, even when every attention has
been given it, the crops obtained would probably not
be so good as those upon more suitable land with half
the labour. The cases above drawn of these two kinds
of soil are, one should remember, quite extreme ones.
Knowing the disadvantages of both heavy and light
land it will be advisable to see how each can be im-
proved, for it is more than likely that the majority of
prospective kitchen gardeners will have considerably
to change the condition of the land freshly brought
under cultivation before they are able to obtain the
best results. We will first consider the best methods
of

Improving Heavy Land. — This soil is too close,
stiff and retentive of moisture, and such additions as
lime, brick and mortar rubble, burnt clay and refuse,
ashes, coarse sand and other materials should be
made. Much good will also come from roughly digging
it in the autumn and leaving the large unbroken masses
of soil exposed to the frost, rain, and snow of winter.
In the spring it may be broken up and prepared for
planting with little trouble, the action of the frost, etc.,
rendering the soil quite friable and easy to work. To

6 FORMATION OF KITCHEN GARDEN

give stability to light hungry land incorporate with it
materials that contain plant food, such as road scrapings,
wood ashes, garden refuse, farmyard manure and dead
leaves. Both these and the materials recommended
for heavy land are best applied in the autumn ; spread
them over the land and thoroughly dig them in. There
is no better or more economical way of disposing of cab-
bage stumps or other greens that stand in the way of
preparing the ground for spring planting or sowing than
to bury them in trenches deep enough to make sure
that they will not come directly in contact with the
roots of growing crops. They will in due course decay,
and add much to the value of the soil, particularly if
light.

The value of a refuse heap is often under estim-
ated by the kitchen gardener ; properly attended to,
it forms an excellent plant food. It is easily made,
and is undoubtedly of great help to the land, especially
to that wanting in retentiveness. The refuse heap may
consist of old soil, dead leaves, road scrapings, the stems
and leaves of pot plants or vegetables, lime, mortar
rubble, or in fact any garden refuse ; an occasional ap-
plication of soot or liquid manure is a great improve-
ment. Such a refuse heap should, from time to time,
be thoroughly turned, and valuable ashes will result
from the burning of dry portions. It must not be as-
sumed, however, that heavy land does not require
manure. It may be just as deficient in plant food as
that of quite a different nature, but even good land
must be manured to replace the nourishment taken

IMPROVING HEAVY LAND 7

from it by growing crops. Continually to cultivate
vegetables upon any soil, and to neglect to manure the
latter, would result in bringing about a greatly im-
poverished garden.

No operations help the cultivator of vegetables
more than digging and trenching. Trenching in-
volves much time and labour, but must be done if
the garden is to be well maintained. It is not neces-
sary to do much of this work at once if a certain
part be regularly trenched every year, and this is the
practice that should be followed. The gardener will
have no difficulty in knowing which portion of the
grounds to deal with, for the disposition of the crops
will govern this. The great value of trenching is that
it exposes fresh soil to the ameliorating influences of
the rain and atmosphere, brings fresh material to the
roots of plants, and gives a rest to the remainder of
the soil. Trenching is performed as follows : The
land to be trenched should be equally divided along
its greatest length by a line or by a mark made in
the soil. Then at one end of one half the ground
remove the soil to the depth of either two feet or
three feet, and place it near the same end of the other
half. This will be clearly explained by the illustra-
tion on page 8.

If the land has never been trenched before re-
move the soil two feet deep only, and then well dig
the bottom thirteen inches deep, thoroughly turning
it over instead of removing it altogether. When
the land has been trenched previously, then begin by

8 FORMATION OF KITCHEN GARDEN

taking out three feet of soil, and place it as above
directed, thoroughly stirring the bottom of the trench.
Sufficient soil must be removed to open a trench two
feet wide. The surface soil of the next two feet
(marked No. 2 on the plan) and to the depth of
twelve inches is then placed at the base of the opened

A

DIAGRAM SHOWING HOW TO TRENCH.

trench (marked No. i ) The second layer twelve inches
deep (of No. 2) is then thrown upon the top of the
first, thus making the soil in trenches Nos. i and 2,
of the same height. The last twelve inches of soil in
trench No. 2 is then placed upon the top of the
second layer in the first trench, thus bringing this

TRENCHING 9

again to its normal level, and leaving the other one
empty. The worker will now be in a similar position
as when he commenced, except of course that he will
have progressed one stage towards the completion of
his work. He will still have an open trench before
him, and this must be filled from the two feet wide
space marked No. 3, in exactly the same way as trench
No. i was filled from No. 2. Proceed in exactly the
same way until the eighth trench has been opened and
filled. Trench No. 9 must be filled from soil from
the same end of the next half of the ground, marked
A on the plan. This portion of the land should be
treated exactly as the first, the only difference being
that the operator will now work in an opposite direc-
tion to that in which the other half of the ground was
trenched. In due time all the trenches will have been
opened and filled too with the exception of the last.
Now the soil previously removed from the first trench
on the other half and placed alongside the last trench
(now empty) will of course be used for filling it, and
it should have been before mentioned that in removing
this soil, care must be taken to keep each layer distinct,
so that they may be placed in the trench in the manner
practised thoughout. To carry out trenching well
each spadeful of soil should at the same time as it is
displaced be also turned over ; if this is not done
trenching loses much of its value.

When the land has not been trenched before, and
two spits each twelve inches deep were removed in-
stead of three in the first place, this practice would of

io FORMATION OF KITCHEN GARDEN

course be continued throughout the plot of ground ;
the third layer instead of being removed would simply
be well turned over. It is only necessary to divide
the land in the manner shown when it is too wide to
be conveniently worked at once. With a narrow plot
of ground this would be altogether unnecessary.

Laying out the Garden. — Having secured a suitable
site where the land is either good or can be quickly
made so, consider its formation. The first thing
that naturally suggests itself is the size. Frequently
there is no choice in the matter, but to those who
have plenty of ground at command, a little advice may
be given. It is a great mistake to have a kitchen
garden so large that it cannot properly be attended to.
The land will be not only partly wasted, but pro-
ably none of it will be well cultivated, and the result
is a series of unsatisfactory crops. The plan of a
kitchen garden that accompanies these notes represents
about one acre of land. This space may be said to
provide sufficient work for a man and a strong boy.
For an acre and a half to two acres two men would
be necessary, and for every additional acre another
man. Such a calculation forms a rough guide for one
to work upon. If the kitchen garden is only a half
or three quarters of an acre in extent then occasional
assistance should be sufficient to ensure its proper
cultivation.

To some extent the form of the kitchen garden
has already been shown. It has been mentioned that
in shape it should be an oblong, the greatest length

13

LAYING OUT THE GARDEN

ii

ui

N

&

12 FORMATION OF KITCHEN GARDEN

being from east to west, so that the greater portion of the
land may have a southern exposure. If at all possible,
the kitchen garden should be surrounded by walls.
It must have an enclosure of some description, and al-
though walls are expensive to build, they will, if properly
managed, in time amply repay the expenditure. They
are valuable as shelter to the vegetables, and provide
a surface against which can be grown a great variety
of hardy fruit trees ; indeed it is only against walls
that several of our choicest fruits can be grown out-
of-doors in this country, and the farther north one
goes the more necessary walls become. Hardy fruit
and vegetable culture are inseparable, and can be
economically carried out together, so that the planting
of a hedge around a kitchen garden to afford protection
to the crops within, instead of a wall, is false economy.
The walls around some of the best kitchen gardens
in the country are 12 feet high and ij- feet through,
but in smaller gardens such are unnecessary. To
be of real value, however, they should not be less
than seven or eight feet high. Adequate protection
must be given to fruit trees against the exterior of
the garden wall, and this cannot be better provided
than by planting a hedge of Thorn or Holly say at
a distance of about eight yards. If it is necessary
specially to protect the garden, a good way of doing
so is to make a deep ditch all round and plant the
hedge upon the top of the bank nearest the wall. Cob-
bett's English Gardener contains a note about this
that is worth reproducing. " You make a ditch six

LAYING OUT THE GARDEN 13

feet wide at the top, and two and a half wide at the
bottom. I suppose the ground to be trenched to the
width of eighteen feet from the wall. You take all
the good earth from the top of the place that is to be
the ditch, and lay it upon the trenched ground to the
extent of two feet wide which will make a very good
and deep bed of earth for the plants which are to form
the hedge to grow in. Then the ditch ought to be
dug out to the depth of three feet, and shovelled out
very clean and smooth at the bottom. This bottom
earth of the ditch must be carried away, for it would
not do to carry it up into the border. If it be con-
venient the slope of the bank ought to be covered
with turf, well beaten on and in the autumn ; because
if put on in the spring, the grass would be likely to
die. If not convenient to get turf, the slope ought
to be thickly sown with grass seeds from a hay loft ;
and in both cases this slope of the bank ought to be
hung very regularly with dead bushes, fastened to the
bank by little pegs. This bank and ditch alone, if
the bushes were well hung and fastened on would be
no bad protection ; few boys or young fellows would
venture, particularly by night, to take a jump over a
ditch of six feet, with about two feet of elevation on
the bank ; but the hedge in addition to this ditch and
bank, renders the storming literally impossible, except
with the assistance of fascines and scaling ladders,
which are munitions that the besiegers of gardens are
very seldom provided with." This extract will show
that Cobbett considered protection most necessary for

i4 FORMATION OF KITCHEN GARDEN

the kitchen and fruit garden in the early part of the
nineteenth century, and may help those who are still
of his opinion. He says further, " Resolve to share
the produce of your garden with the boys of the
whole neighbourhood, or keep it for your own use by
a fence they cannot get through, under or over. I
really feel some remorse in thus plotting against the
poor fellows, but the worst of it is they will not be
content with fair play ; they will have the earliest in
the season and the best as long as the season lasts, and
therefore I must, however reluctantly, shut them out
altogether."

It is not wise to plant the hedge round the garden
until the interior is finished, for there will be much
wheeling of soil and gravel, etc., and the hedge would
probably prove a nuisance and almost certainly become
damaged.

In laying out a kitchen garden bear in mind that
convenience is an important point, and that the simpler
the design the more easily can the work be carried out,
resulting in a saving of both time and labour. The
design of the vegetable garden must be formal, with
simple walks that enable the gardener to pass quickly
from one part to another. Running through the centre
of the garden, and along its greatest length, should be
the main road, sufficiently wide to admit of the passage
of carts.

By this means soil, manure or whatever material
may be required can be brought direct to any one of
the chief plots in the garden. In kitchen gardens less

LAYING OUT THE GARDEN 15

than one acre in extent a road made sufficiently wide
to admit carts would be unnecessary ; the size of the
ground under cultivation would not warrant the trouble
and expense entailed. All the necessary materials for
the land could be carted to the entrance, there depos-
ited and transported in a wheelbarrow to any part of
the garden where they might be required.

In addition to the main central road (which if it is to
admit horses and carts should not be less than nine feet
wide), as many smaller paths as are considered neces-
sary to allow of convenient access to every part of the
garden should be made. In the first place there must
be one all around at such a distance from the wall as
to leave a border wide enough for the proper accom-
modation of the roots of the wall trees. These borders,
as will be more fully explained later, will be very useful
for vegetables, and being protected by the walls, with
a south, east, west and north aspect respectively, they
are most valuable to the kitchen gardener. It is from
the south border that early vegetables will come, and
in prolonging the season of any particular product,
the north border is of only second importance. Hav-
ing the main central walk and the smaller walks run-
ning parallel with the walls, other small ones will also
have to be formed to divide up the remaining land
into convenient plots. In the accompanying plan there
are really three plots upon either side of the middle
road although, practically, one of these is absorbed by
the frame ground.

In laying out the kitchen garden it is essential

1 6 FORMATION OF KITCHEN GARDEN

that the formation of walks, borders, etc., be done
with great exactitude, otherwise the result will be dis-
appointing ; it is therefore needful to have a plan ac-
curately drawn to scale.

Edging for the Walks. — The beauty of the vegetable
garden depends in a large degree upon the nature of
the edgings. Tiles are a mistake, as they are easily
broken, and always apt to be accidentally knocked by
wheel-barrows, carts, etc., while they always have a
hard, and even ugly look. Grass edgings entail much
labour to keep trim as they get trampled upon. A
beautiful mixed border on either side of the centre
walk is a great gain. It may contain a host of things
for cutting and thus save the flower garden proper from
disturbance.

Much may be said in favour of the Box as an edg-
ing ; it is evergreen, very hardy, of compact and pretty
growth, does not harbour slugs, etc. , to the extent that
larger-growing plants do and is almost indifferent to
soil. If properly clipped and attended to, a Box
edging may remain undisturbed for twenty years or
more. It should be clipped regularly and evenly in
the early spring, and should again be gone over in the
summer to remove any ragged or loose growths. Plant
it close to the gravel, and so cover the bare stems that
they are not visible when the planting is done. It
should be three or four inches high when finished, and
when established should not be allowed to grow more
than about eight inches in height. A line will of
course be necessary, so as to plant it quite straight,

EDGING FOR THE WALKS 17

and the work should be done as soon as the walks are
finished.

The Frame Ground is a necessary feature of every
good vegetable garden. The frames will be useful
for raising the young plants for producing an early
supply of vegetables, for forcing such things as As-
paragus, Potatoes, Carrots, Rhubarb, etc., and for
maintaining a supply of Mustard and Cress, Basil and
other Salads and Herbs during the early spring. It is
here that practically all the propagation of early vege-
tables will be done. The frame yard also is a con-
venient place for storing manure, making hot-beds,
refuse heaps, etc. A shed for the accommodation of the
various tools made use of by the gardener is needed
and should be made of such a size that soil may be
stored in it. During wet weather men can work there.
The walls of the kitchen garden must be covered on
both sides with fruit trees of various sorts. Jeru-
salem Artichokes are suitable subjects for planting
in the enclosure between the walls and the boundary
hedge.

Cropping the Land. — As the cultivation of fruit
trees is so closely connected with that of vegetables and
of equal importance in the kitchen garden, a few words
must be said with regard to them.

On either side of the large central walk there
should be a row of fruit trees, Apples on one side and
Pears on the other. The forms of trees known as
bush and pyramid may be planted here, and they
will in time form a handsome and valuable avenue,

2

1 8 FORMATION OF KITCHEN GARDEN

beautiful at all seasons, especially in spring and
autumn. Plant at a sufficient distance from the walk
to prevent at any future time their encroaching upon
or overhanging it. By this practice not only does
one obtain a considerable quantity of fruit, but prac-
tically little ground is occupied exclusively, for even
underneath the trees such things as Strawberries,
Parsley, Shallots, etc., can be grown with great success.
If the garden is of fair extent and much fruit is re-
quired, plant bush fruit trees on one side also of the
walk that runs round the garden, but only on one
side, because the borders next to the walls must be left
intact. Bush trees are the best for this purpose be-
cause of their compact growth. For planting by the
sides of the minor walks or even upon the border side
of the walk nearest the walls, use dwarf horizontally
trained trees. These take up practically no room,
give little shade and produce good fruit.

General Remarks upon Cropping. — Cultivation of
the crops must be done systematically, and in a general
way the gardener must know before the season com-
mences which vegetable any particular part of the land
shall be devoted to. Much can be done during the
winter to determine how the ground may be cultivated
to the best advantage, by drawing up a rough plan
of the various plots and borders and selecting the
vegetables to be grown upon each. Every detail
as to cropping the ground need not be arranged on
paper before the season begins, for such a proceeding
would be impossible, as every practical man knows,

GENERAL REMARKS UPON CROPPING 1 9

but a prepared scheme is needful. By having a
plan of the kitchen garden, one can decide upon the
principal crops to grow upon each plot before the
planting time arrives. Knowing exactly how the land
is at present occupied this will not be difficult. To a
certain extent the cultivator has to be guided by his
own circumstances after the principal outlines of crop-
ping the garden have been decided upon. What a book
can do, however, and what every book should do, is
to lay down the principles upon which a man ought
to we -k ; the man himself must of necessity fill in a
certain amount of detail. As a guide therefore we will
enumerate one or two of the first principles of successful
kitchen gardening. The first and most important of
these is the

Rotation of Crops. — It is folly to endeavour to cul-
tivate the same crop year after year upon the same piece
of ground ; a change is absolutely necessary and the
reason is this. Each vegetable (or those closely allied),
takes from the land certain elements of plant food in
a larger proportion than another vegetable would do,
therefore if one crop is grown upon the same land year
after year the result must inevitably be that the latter
loses a valuable constituent. By changing the order
of the crops, which is exactly what is implied by " ro-
tation of crops," such a result is averted, for the next
vegetable grown upon the land would absorb other plant
food in quantity, thus allowing the soil to recover its
lost vitality. By rotating the crops the soil is al-
lowed every opportunity of replenishing the food the

20 FORMATION OF KITCHEN GARDEN

previous crop has diminished. This principle cannot
always be freely practised. It is not absolutely essen-
tial, however, that various crops be grown upon dif-
ferent land every year, providing the land is well
manured after gathering the vegetables ; sometimes
very probably it would be most inconvenient, or
perhaps impossible, but the principle is to make a
succession of changes. For instance, it is wrong to
adopt the plan of growing Potatoes upon the same land
year after year, yet it may happen that it is not possible
to prevent this for say two consecutive years, and no
harm would result. The same remarks apply also to
members of the Cabbage family, that is to say all
Brassicae, which also should if possible be given different
ground at every fresh planting. But as mentioned
above heavy manuring will modify and render this
practice less necessary. It is not in every garden,
however, that manure can be had in large quantities,
and gardeners in this predicament would do well to
attend as strictly as possible to the proper rotation of
crops. It is only in this way that the best results can
be obtained by those with limited means of improving
the land, and to such therefore the accompanying
tables will be of some importance.

In the accompanying tables each plot has, for con-
venience sake and clearness, been divided into three
parts. It will be noticed that throughout the five years
Plot II. remains undisturbed. The vegetables planted
on it will continue to give good results for many years,
all of them for five years at least, and in fact are all

ROTATION OF CROPS

21

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22 FORMATION OF KITCHEN GARDEN

the better when left alone. To have such crops grow-
ing close together and upon the same plot of ground
is obviously a great convenience.

With reference to the Strawberry, a planta ion is
here made to last for three years. Some growers des-
troy the plants after the second year, contending that
the third year's crop of fruit does not pay, as it is poor.
If this method is followed, a fresh plantation of
Strawberry plants must be made every year. Upon
light, hungry soil the Strawberry will not fruit well for
more than two years, but upon good and properly
tilled land the third year's crop is satisfactory. To
provide an uninterrupted supply of fruits, a fresh
planting would be necessary every two years (as shown
in the tables), if the plants produce three crops of fruit.
The cultivator will soon learn whether his land is suffi-
ciently good to allow this to be done.

CHAPTER II.

POPULAR VEGETABLES.
ARTICHOKES.

THERE are three distinct Artichokes, the Globe, the
Jerusalem, and the Chinese. The Globe is quite dif-
ferent from the others, and requires special consideration.
It is not largely grown, and varies greatly in quality,
the finest forms being those which produce large suc-
culent heads. The plants are at times grown from
seed, but it is unwise to rely upon seedlings, as they
are usually of little value. It is better to propagate
by suckers when a good strain has been secured.
The Globe Artichoke also is not hardy in severe
winters, the plant frequently dying even hen well
protected. But much depends upon the locality ;
the growth in some districts being stronger than in
others. Whether hardy or otherwise, make a new
plantation every three or four years, as the old stools
exhaust the soil, and the heads dwindle in size as the
plants age.

The Jerusalem Artichoke is tuberous, generally
placed in any out of the way corner, and there re-
mains for many years, but by giving a change of soil

23

24 POPULAR VEGETABLES

and selecting the seed carefully much better tubers
are obtained.

The Chinese Artichoke is an excellent vegetable,
but the small size of the tubers is against a wide
popularity.

Globe Artichoke. — Ample space is necessary for
this Artichoke, a distance of four feet between the
rows being none too much, and half that distance
from plant to plant. The suckers should be placed
three together, as a clump gives a better return.
Trench the land deeply, manure heavily, and prepare
some time in advance of planting. In heavy land
it will be advisable to incorporate lighter material
or burnt refuse with the soil ; also to take care
that the plot is well drained. April is a good month
to plant, and in dry seasons give water freely with
liquid manure and salt dressings in showery weather
from June to September. Guano and salt form one
of the best foods for older plants not recently
manured ; give protection in the late autumn, and
after the old growths are cut away place some fine
ashes over the roots, and pack dry bracken litter
round the young growths, as these supply heads for
the following May. In cold or wet soils detach a
few suckers from the finest forms, and place in boxes
or frames for the next spring planting. If seed
is sown sow it under glass in pots or in rows in
April, but it is a mistake to raise plants in this way.
Globe Artichokes yield from May to September, and
it is well to cut the heads and place them in water

ARTICHOKES 25

when full grown, as, if left too long, they harden
and lose flavour.

Jerusalem Artichoke. — This Artichoke will grow
in any soil, but is most successful in a deep friable,
well-manured loam and in an open situation. We
enjoy it in winter as a change from potatoes, and
since the Messrs. Sutton introduced the smoother
white tuber, which has fewer eyes and is of better
flavour than the older types, the Jerusalem Artichoke
is regarded with greater favour. It is profitable for
the reason that, though it needs considerable space,
the crop is in proportion. Many object to this root
when served in the same way as potatoes, but there is
no need to do this ; there are quite a dozen methods
of cooking, and few roots are better for soups and
gravies. It should be remembered that once the plant
is grown it will reappear from the smallest portion of
root, and, doubtless, that is one reason why the plants
are not given new quarters so often as they deserve.
It is an easy matter, however, to free the soil of them
if care is taken when digging. Always purchase or
save good seed, not trusting anything that will not
give shapely roots, and change the stock when disease
is probable or the roots fail to crop well. February
and March are the best seasons to plant. There must
be a space of three feet between the rows, and twelve
inches between the sets. More room may be given,
if available, and planting may also be done much
earlier. Cover the sets with six inches of soil, and
leave the tubers in their growing quarters, digging

26 POPULAR VEGETABLES

them up as required, or clamp them in the same way
that potatoes are frequently treated ; they are best
when not housed in a warm store, but kept as cool
as possible.

The Chinese Artichoke (Stachys tuberifera). — Owing
to the small size of the curiously crinkled tubers, this
has not become so popular as it deserves ; it needs
good land and a little more attention as to culture
than the Jerusalem Artichoke. The tubers are small,
white, with a clear skin, and produced freely ; over-
crowding is a mistake. It does well in a light freely
manured loam, with the sets in rows two feet apart,
and six inches between the sets. The tubers are
much finer when there is no lack of moisture. It
is a good plan to mulch between the rows in dry
years. The tubers are ready for use early in the
autumn, and, though not suitable where quantities
are needed, this little root makes a good vegetable
for game and entrees.

ASPARAGUS.

This is not always grown well, although great
strides have been made in its culture during the past
quarter of a century. Indeed, the splendid produce
exhibited occasionally at the Temple Shows of the
Royal Horticultural Society from the Colchester dis-
trict, and at other shows, proves that given good
culture English-grown Asparagus is as good, if not
better, than that imported from the Continent.

ASPARAGUS 27

English Asparagus is of vastly better flavour and
quality in every way. For many years our system
of growing this vegetable was confined to one method,
that of narrow beds, the seeds were sown like Mus-
tard and Cress, and the seedlings grown so thickly
that it was impossible for the plants to attain proper
size through their crowded condition.

Soils and Situations. — There can be no question
whatever that Asparagus relishes a rich sandy allu-
vial soil, and, although it has been grown success-
fully on ground different to this, the results have not
been so satisfactory, when labour and material are
taken into account. Any soil therefore that is at all
stiff and retentive of moisture should have materials
to lighten and improve it. Large masses of wet
animal manure in this case would do but little good.
Some of the large market growers near the Metropolis
who grow this vegetable well use road-scrapings and
Thames sand freely when making new beds or quarters,
an appropriate term, as the plants are grown in long
rows and given ample space. The beds should be
freely exposed in every way, but, if possible, given
protection from strong winds which are injurious
when top growth is heavy ; as if the tops are twisted
growth unfortunately stops. In private gardens time
is gained if small beds can be made on sheltered
borders, but only sufficient to bring forward a few
early dishes, as the best crops will be secured from
open quarters. Although the roots enjoy the soil
advised they are impatient of drought. The best

28 POPULAR VEGETABLES

growths we ever saw were from beds of a light porous
soil, but they were irrigated weekly, indeed twice
a week in dry weather, and wherever liquid manure
can be utilised from May to September there can
be no doubt of its excellent feeding properties for
Asparagus. Beds are sometimes formed on north
borders for late supplies, but, so far, with poor
results. There is no need of beds for late supplies as
" grass " may be cut well into the late summer if the
roots are attended to in the way of moisture. This late
cutting, however, is not advisable, as the plant must
have sufficient time to make its growth for another
season, and a supply can be had for six months, from
Christmas to Midsummer, by forcing and the ordinary
supply from the open ground, surely a sufficiently long
season for one vegetable. When the natural soil is
unsuitable preparation of the beds will take time. In
the case of heavy soil take off the top spit of soil that
had been worked previously, place it on one side, and
then trench the ground or double dig, and if expense
is no object a portion of the lower spit may be removed
entirely, and a liberal quantity of lighter soil added,
such as burnt garden refuse, road-scrapings, wood ashes,
sand or sandy mud, and old leaf soil. When digging
add plenty of decayed manure, working this in the
top soil placed on one side for the surface with the
materials added as the work proceeds. In poor lands
trenching is important, and in heavy land the lightest
soil, or soil that has been worked or pulverised by the
weather, should be kept on the surface, so that in

ASPARAGUS 29

trenching the poor soil is kept underneath. Light
gravelly soil needs a different kind of treatment. In
this case trenching, i.e., turning up the poor inert
gravel soil, would prove injurious. The better plan
is to double dig and incorporate plenty of food in the
soil that is on the upper portion, not low down, and, if
possible, add to the surface soil some good loam.

Sowing and Planting. — Under this heading must
be considered sowing, although many good cultivators
prefer plants to seed, and planting, of course, means
a considerable saving of time, while it is not every-
one who can grow the seedlings for planting, but they
are easily obtained from growers who make their sale
a speciality. There is no difficulty about seed sow-
ing ; one point often overlooked is that the seed is
sown much too thickly ; the plants are not thinned
sufficiently, and there is too little space for the roots
later on, the result being that the produce is small,
and no matter how much manure is applied, if they
are much crowded it is impossible to get healthy
growth. Good Asparagus has been grown with little
labour and cost, but experienced cultivation is neces-
sary if fine heads are required from beds that will last
for years. Where the seed beds are to remain for only
three years, it will suffice to dig the land deeply,
manure and sow. The French market gardeners have
the rows of plants several feet apart, sometimes as
much as six feet, and crop the ground between with
Salad. In many gardens space is limited, so that this
width is impossible, but a fair distance would be to

3o POPULAR VEGETABLES

have two-feet alleys, and three feet beds, to allow of
two rows of plants. The drills should be drawn
at nine inches from the edge on both sides, and at
intervals of eighteen inches ; in the row place a few
seeds and cover over with fine soil. There is there-
fore a space of eighteen inches between the rows, and
this space will give good " grass ". The bed, being
narrow, is more easily cleaned, and there is no need
to tread on it when cutting. April is the month to
sow, but the precise date depends on the locality and
weather. In the north it will be later than in the
south. If larger beds are preferred, a five-feet space
may be given, and three rows of plants, but there is
really no need for beds at all, in fact in light soils
sowing on the flat is advisable, with ample space
between the rows to admit of cleansing and cutting.
Grown thus the soil is not so likely to get dry in the
summer months, and better material is secured. Make
the beds by throwing out a few inches of the top soil
from the two-feet alleys on the surface of the beds
before the sowing or, if planted, the soil may be used
to cover the roots. When the seedlings are a few
inches high, thin out, leaving one strong plant at
every station in the row, or two may be left not
quite close together, removing the more weakly in
a fortnight. The only point in doing this is that
should these seedlings be very close together care
must be taken not to injure them. The thinning is
often overlooked, but it is a most important matter.
One must be severe at the start, and thin even to

ASPARAGUS 31

one plant rather than leave half a dozen fighting for
existence.

Planting. — One-, two- or even three-year-old roots
may be used. When they are the latter a little more
care is required. There are several ways of planting.
A simple one is to stretch a line at the distances
named, and draw out a drill with a wide hoe, and
then place the plants, spreading out the roots, and
taking care that they are not doubled but spread
out evenly, and covered over with, say, three or four
inches of soil. Another plan is to cut a trench as
if laying Box, and place the roots fan shaped. There
must be no crowding. Another good way is to plant
on the top of a ridge of good soil, and cover with
soil from the alley, lightly treading over the roots upon
each side of the ridge when the covering soil is
in position. Plants are also placed on the surface
of the bed, and then covered with good soil, but
this is not advisable, as such plants have, as they
attain age, a tendency to force themselves out of
the soil, with the result that the crown gets dry
and suffers. If three-year-old plants are used, set
to work quickly, not allowing the roots to become
dry. Two-year-old roots are preferable, but what-
ever is used lift carefully, damp over and plant as
soon as possible, getting the ground ready in advance.
Should dry weather follow planting give plenty of
water, and in light soils, especially when the roots
are planted late, newly planted beds are benefited
by a mulch of short litter. Asparagus may be got

32 POPULAR VEGETABLES

in much later even than April, but more care is necessary
then and afterwards when the weather is hot or dry.

The after management consists in feeding and
keeping clean. There should be no cutting of plants
from seed until the third year, and only a little
then. Much, however, depends upon the strength of
the plant. Few things are benefited more than Aspar-
agus by flooding the beds during growth with liquid
manure and other foods, and excellent Asparagus
foods may now be obtained, while salt and guano are
valuable, the latter being given in showery weather
from May to July, or salt and guano mixed are quite
as beneficial. Such foods as nitrates and sulphates
are also very stimulating. Salt should be given from
May to September, not in winter. Another point
about which much difference exists is the manuring
of the beds in autumn. So much depends upon the
soil, but the best cultivators dress with rotten manure
in February, covering this with -a few inches of top
soil from the alley. This promotes a longer season
of " grass " when cutting. Some growers think that
by manuring much earlier the manure gets pulverised
by the weather, but in light soils the extra covering
in shape of a mulch is helpful, as the roots do not
like drought at all.

Many beds are ruined through allowing the seed
berries to fall in the autumn. The seed-bearing stems
should be cut before the berries fall, otherwise seedlings
spring up the following season and overcrowd the
parent plants.

ASPARAGUS 33

Cutting should cease at midsummer, and weed
growth must never be allowed, but salt dressings at
the times advised will check this development. As
the plants attain age, a surface dressing of rich soil
and bone meal will be beneficial, and early in the
spring to hasten growth place a few inches of light
litter over the surface of the beds, removing it to
the alleys in the daytime, as frost often occurs at
that season of the year. The best varieties are :
Connover's Colossal, the Argenteuil, Giant or Batter-
sea, and Sutton's Giant.

Forcing. — Asparagus may be forced in various
ways. When the roots are lifted they can be forced
with little trouble in a warm house, the temperature
of which does not exceed 60°, indeed 5° lower will
suffice, as too much heat means a weakly growth. In
many gardens there is no space to grow roots for
forcing ; it must be remembered that once the roots
are forced they are useless, also that at the least they
take three years, sometimes more, to attain sufficient
size for the purpose. There is, however, no difficulty
in purchasing roots ready grown for forcing, and these
will provide a supply until the beds are ready. To get
forced Asparagus quickly bottom heat may be used ;
but it is well to provide this sparingly, as without
bottom heat, simply by starting the roots in a warm
house, less than a month will suffice to produce the
forced material. With lifted roots to keep up a regu-
lar supply, say, to begin cutting in the early part of
December, about half a dozen batches of plants in

3

34 POPULAR VEGETABLES

sufficient quantity must be used, but lifted roots are
not so productive as older ones in permanent beds.
Give rather more warmth for the December forcing,
and a few days' longer forcing may be needed, but
after that, if the batches are placed indoors every
three weeks, there will be a full supply. For the early
batch bottom heat such as leaves and litter may be
used to force up the growth. Asparagus for later sup-
plies may be grown in frames placed on a good bed
of slow heating materials, covering the glass well at
night to maintain an even temperature. The removal
of roots to frames rilled with fermenting material is
a simple matter, and Asparagus grown thus, that is,
near the glass, is better than that from hothouses.
Market growers force old roots. Deep and wide
trenches are dug out, fresh manure is placed in them,
and then the roots. Frames are used, and manure
is used freely outside them.

A much better system of forcing, however, is to
use hot water. It is costly at the start, as the pipes,
boiler, brickwork and labour must be taken into
account, but it is money well spent when the cost
of lifting roots for forcing, and manures, and labour
are considered. When hot-water pipes are used, beds
need more moisture, as they dry up quickly, both in
summer and during the forcing period, so that in
forming new beds an efficient water supply should be
arranged for ; indeed, if the beds can be flooded so
much the better. From May until the end of August
the plants must make a liberal top growth, and without

ASPARAGUS 35

this the crown growths will be poor for forcing next
season. Permanent beds forced thus last many years,
and, if they are forced annually, produce may be ob-
tained early in the year, but, of course, the beds need
much feeding after the cutting ceases. If, for instance,
the beds are started in December and cutting begins
in January or a month or six weeks from the time of
starting, there will be a long supply, that is, in ordin-
ary seasons, from the end of January until the beds
in the open are ready, when cutting should cease, and
the beds receive liberal supplies of food in the shape
of quick-acting fertilisers and liquid manure. Apply
these at least once a month until top growth is less
active.

In forming beds heated by hot-water pipes, brick
sides are best, and the chamber must be of sufficient
depth for the heat to circulate freely. A flow and
return pipe will be sufficient, and the glass frame or,
what is better, sliding sashes should be placed over
the beds, as then it is handier to get at the plants
during growth. In any case the frames for covering
the beds must be portable, as they are best removed
when forcing ceases, but they are most valuable in the
kitchen garden, as in the early spring they may be
used for early vegetables just planted out or sown,
such as French Beans, Cauliflowers, Salads, or for
plants and fruits, and in the early autumn for late
Beans and Salads. The temperature of the frame
should not be high, sixty-five degrees being quite suf-
ficient. During sunshine, and as the days lengthen,

36 POPULAR VEGETABLES

use less fire heat and give more ventilation. The
system of forcing practised at Syon House for many
years, and with considerable success, is quite reliable
and not costly. There is nothing elaborate in the
process at the start, and once the beds are made they
last for many years. The forcing beds at Syon are in
an open position, and placed in a portion of the garden
where the forcing of other vegetables is usually under-
taken. The beds are about fifty feet long, and five
feet broad, with three rows of plants about eighteen
inches apart in the row, and with ample room at com-
mand two rows of plants would suffice, but excellent
material is obtained even with the restricted space
given. Wider beds are a mistake, and if hot water be
not used a distance of four feet is preferable with two
rows of plants, as with wide beds and only fermenting
materials the warmth does not reach the centre of the
bed, and it is more difficult to cut the stems. The
beds are three feet deep, a good depth for forced beds.
If shallower so much greater is the need for moisture.
The alleys are also three feet deep and are formed
thus : the two bottom courses are solid, but there is
only one brick for the foundation ; the second course
is laid lengthwise, so that there is only a four and a
half inch wall, and this is pigeon-holed throughout.
It is unnecessary to describe the making of the beds,
but remember that the soil must be good at the
start. Much the same routine will be required as for
permanent beds in the open, as regards sowing or
planting. Use fresh leaves largely, and these can be

ASPARAGUS 37

collected and placed in bulk as gathered, and as these
materials are gathered by the latter part of De-
cember, and placed in large heaps, they have begun
to heat, and are then well-trodden in the alleys. It
is important that every layer of leaves should be well
rammed into position. At the start a frequent practice
at Syon is to wheel the leaves direct into the alleys, but
when finishing off the beds secure the best material,
such as oak or beech leaves. Wooden framework
eighteen inches deep with cross bars is placed on the
top of the walls, the latter are a little higher than the
beds, and another lot of leaves and warm manure is
placed so that the top of the framework is covered. On
the surface of the beds is put a depth of from eighteen
inches to two feet of warm litter and in wet or snowy
weather covers are used to keep the material dry.
Additions are made to the litter both on the beds
and in the alleys ; a slight shrinkage is always occur-
ring as the leaves become heated through. Doubtless,
glass frames would be preferable to the framework
and litter, but large quantities were necessary, six beds
being cut from at a time. Wooden shutters were
formerly used, but litter and dressed covers are better,
and the litter is easily renewed or added to in cold
weather. The old decayed heating material must be
removed in November, and used in the garden for
various crops. The beds will give a good cutting in
six weeks from the date of placing the whole in
readiness for forcing, but there must be a good depth
of fine soil on the surface to allow the growths to

38 POPULAR VEGETABLES

attain a fair height. Previous to placing the leaves
in position, indeed early in November, rake over the
beds, using a quick-acting fertiliser, which is conveyed
to the roots by the rains just before growth begins.
When cutting ceases, food should be freely given until
midsummer. The beds will give a supply until the
end of April, indeed later, but it is not advisable to
cut after that date. A three months' supply is not bad,
and the produce from beds forced thus is equal to
that from beds in the open. There is one objection :
the growths early in the season are white, but as the
weather becomes warmer, the beds can be exposed in
the middle of the day.

BEANS.

Beans are divided into three distinct groups, the
French, Runner, and Broad, and we may add another
type, which is closely related to the tall Runner — the
Climbing French Bean, of which there are half a dozen
different varieties, very free bearing, and available over
a long season. Among our tender or summer vege-
tables the French Bean is a great favourite. Few
vegetables force more freely, and in some parts of the
country they are available every week of the year,
while in most places there is no difficulty in having a
nine or ten months7 supply. The most troublesome
period to bridge over, especially near large towns, is from
November to the end of January, as the flowers fail
to set properly, and the result is an unprofitable crop.

BEANS 39

The Broad Bean needs less care ; it is hardy, very
accommodating as to soil and position, and is in per-
fection in the early summer. It may be forced, at least
it does well in pots at the start. The Runner is more
tender than any ; if the seed is sown too early it is
injured and the young plants are soon crippled by frost.
Dwarf Beans. — These are also known as French
or Kidney Beans, and few vegetables are more pro-
fitable when well grown. They are not fastidious and
prefer good though light soil. Those who have
a heavy clay soil to deal with can easily make it
lighter by incorporating with it such materials as
burnt garden refuse, old mortar, leaf mould, road
scrapings and wood ashes. Another satisfactory plan
is to dig deeply, and manure freely ; in a holding soil
the grower reaps some benefit in summer as, if the
weather is dry, the crop lasts longer. For the
first crop sown in the open there can be no better
position than a warm, well-drained, south border.
Earliness in most gardens is a great gain, but only
grow a small quantity compared to the later sowings
which require an open quarter. Both the French and
Runner Beans (especially the first named) are sown
much too thickly ; it is impossible for them to thrive
under such conditions. There is some excuse for
sowing the first lot thickly, as, owing to our peculiar
climate, we cannot depend on the seed germinating,
but it is an easy matter to thin out the seedlings once
they are in vigorous growth. In many gardens an
early crop may be secured by sowing under glass and

40 POPULAR VEGETABLES

transferring the seedlings to a warm border. Few
plants do better when not forced too much, that is,
merely given glass protection for a short time. Some
gardeners sow in a warm house, and as soon as the
plants are well through the soil transfer them to cold
frames.

Seed of Early Wonder sown in five-inch pots,
say in the middle of March, and given cold-frame
protection, will make strong plants for planting out
a month later ; give shelter for a time. If hand
glasses can be spared so much the better, as, though
the shelter is not often required during the day, it
is so at night for a time, as the plant makes slow
progress in cold weather.

The first sowing in the open depends upon the
soil, locality and seasons. In heavy wet soils one
cannot sow so early as when the soil is light, but the
staple can be improved with such light materials as
previously advised. In the South seed may be sown
in the second week in April, later in the Midlands, and
at the end of the month in the North, at a distance
of two feet apart between the rows for the medium
growers, and more for the stronger ones. Sow seed
every three weeks from the ist of April till the early
part of August, and there will be no break in the
supply. It is better to sow small quantities as ad-
vised than to make one or two large sowings, as, unless
the plant is well fed or watered, it fails to yield.
The later sowing should be so timed that the plants
require protection from frost.

BEANS 41

Forcing. — This important garden practice may
commence so that the forced plants are ready when
the outdoor supply is over. It is a good plan to sow
seed for the autumn supply in frames in August or
early in September, and this batch will crop until
December. It is a mistake to sow later, as the risk
of failure is great, and is not worth the trouble and
expense incurred. But there will be greater success
if seed is sown in pots late in December or early in
January. Use a small pot for this early supply, a
six- or seven-inch size being quite large enough, and
to ensure quick germination bottom heat is necessary.
Place the pots with the seed in them on the warm
pipes, and give no water to the soil until the seed-
lings are showing freely. Much the same method of
culture is needed as for open ground crops, that is, a
rich root run, seed to be sown every three weeks, and
ample supplies of moisture when the plants are in full
vigour. If small pots are used four to five plants
will suffice, and thin the seedlings to this number.
When the pots are eight inch, then six or seven
plants will be the correct quantity. The larger pots
are advisable for supplies after February, and at that
date seed of some of the stronger growers may be
grown, such as Magnum Bonum, Progress and the
Canadian Wonder. Mr. Wythes writes : " For early
forcing, some years ago, I made a trial of all early
varieties, and also saw a very large trial in the Royal
Horticultural Society's Garden. There the Early
Favourite, Ne Plus Ultra and the Sutton Forcing

42 POPULAR VEGETABLES

were excellent, and among the older varieties the
Early Dun, Mohawk, Sion House and Osborne's
Forcing." The French Bean when forced delights
in warmth and moisture, not so much at the roots as
in the atmosphere, and grown under these conditions
there is no difficulty in having good pods in six weeks
from the time of sowing the seed. A temperature
of 65° to 70° by day is none too much, indeed, with
ample supplies of moisture, the house with sun heat
may be 80° to 90° at closing. Avoid cold draughts,
and cold water soon checks growth, whilst dryness
is answerable for red spider, and a check of any
nature soon cripples growth. There are other ways
of forcing better than pot culture, and one consists
in growing the plants in low pits or houses, not
far from the glass. The roots should be in a good,
rich bed of soil, with a liberal amount of hot-water
pipes running underneath, so that the bottom heat is
never lower than 70° to 80°. Grown in this way the
plant does splendidly, indeed, there is no difficulty in
getting three crops from the same plant. As soon as
one is gathered the plants are topped, dressed with a
quick-acting fertiliser or decayed manure, and given
a little more warmth to encourage new growth, and
tepid liquid manure is supplied to the roots. The
bed for plants grown thus should be from nine inches
to twelve inches deep, and there should be perfect
drainage ; the seed may be sown in the bed or in three-
inch pots, and the seedlings planted out firmly, care
being taken to keep the roots from injury. Sowing in

BEANS 43

small pots, as the plants are then raised more quickly,
is the right plan for early forcing. For May and early
June supplies a good number of seeds may be sown
in small pots and then planted out in cold frames ;
the seed is sown early in March, and the planting
done a month later in rich soil ; the soil of an old
Cucumber bed does well. Plants grown thus give
welcome dishes before those in the open are ready.
Broad Beans. — The Broad Bean is not so great
a favourite as the Dwarf French type, but much
depends on the variety, the way it is cooked and
other details not necessary to dwell upon. Those
who object to the peculiar flavour of this vegetable
should try it cooked in a much younger state, and
another way to get rid of the harsh flavour of older
Beans is to remove the skins before they are cooked.
This can be done when the pods are shelled. The
Green Windsor variety is the best flavoured of this
section, but, unfortunately is not the earliest, the
small, hardy Mazagan being in season before any
others, even the Early Longpod, but the last men-
tioned is the more productive. There are several
enormous podding varieties, such as the Mammoth,
and Carter's Leviathan, but it is unwise to grow
them in such quantities as the Green Windsor ; they
are valuable for exhibition, and their flavour is first
rate, but the crops are not large. Broad Beans are
so easily grown that very few cultural details are
required. They like a strong loamy soil, though they
will grow in a lighter one, but in this they are more

44 POPULAR VEGETABLES

subject to the attacks of green and black fly ; the
latter pest is troublesome to get rid of in dry seasons
and prevents the flowers setting. For an early crop
sow in pots or boxes under glass in January, and plant
out early in March. Pots, doubtless, are preferable,
as the roots are less disturbed at the planting out, but
with care they lift well out of boxes if the seed is not
sown too thickly. Use turfy loam and press the soil
firmly when the seeds are sown. Plants raised thus will
be quite two to three weeks earlier than the first lot
in the open ground ; they are very dwarf, flower
close to the soil, and if planted on a warm border,
two feet apart between the rows, give a good return.
Seed may be sown in the open ground any time
in February according to the weather and locality, in
rows three feet apart in well-enriched soil, using the
Longpod section for the first crop, another sowing
being made three weeks or a month later of the
larger-podding varieties on an open border. Later
sowings should be made in April and May, but these
should be of the Green Windsor type, and the site
for them must be cool when the garden soil is porous
or gravelly, indeed, for late supplies east or north
borders are preferable. Stop the plants early to
secure the first flowers that open at the base, and
give the plants moisture freely in dry seasons. It is
a good plan, in order to get a very late supply, to
sow the small Beck's Dwarf Gem or Cluster Bean in
shaded ground in May. It is a reliable variety, very
small, and may be grown thicker than the others

BEANS 45

named. The same remarks apply to the Mazagan.
This sown late will not need more than a two-feet
space between the rows. The old way of sowing
Broad Beans in October or November is less practised
than formerly, and for the good reason that losses are
great, and plants often fall a prey to birds and vermin,
but there can be no question whatever that plants
grown thus are much earlier and dwarfer than those
sown in February. Less space is needed and they
can be protected more readily. Such varieties as the
Early Mazagan, Early Longpod, and Beck's Dwarf
are the best, and the land should be well prepared,
using wood ashes, soot or lime freely when digging
the soil to destroy slugs or snails. It is also wise
when the plants are well above the soil to draw the
earth close to them as a protection against cold winds.
Runner Beans. — These have a shorter season than
other beans and it is not safe to sow till May, and even
then in cold exposed gardens the middle of the month
is early enough. The plants start badly when the seeds
are slow in germinating, and an early lot, if desired,
may be secured by sowing under glass, as advised for
the Broad section, and planting out the latter part of
May. There are several splendid varieties to select
from, but this type will probably be less grown now
the newer form of Dwarf Beans has found so much
favour. The ordinary Runner Bean needs much room,
as though the plants at the start benefit by timely
shelter, later they need free exposure, a rich root run,
and plenty of moisture in dry seasons ; indeed, it will

46 POPULAR VEGETABLES

be found that very heavy rain is needed before these
plants benefit, as their abundant top growth throws the
moisture away from the roots. The best way in private
gardens is to grow this plant in trenches such as are
prepared for celery. The trenches give timely pro-
tection to the growing plants, and water given during
summer is retained better than if the sowing had been
made on the level. With regard to the distances, be
liberal. It is much better to give a wider space than
is often advised, and to grow such crops as Cauliflowers
between, or other green vegetables that are cleared at
the same time as the Beans. If the land is available,
at least five to six feet should be given the plants be-
tween the rows. If less room is essential, take out the
points or tops of the plants when four feet growth has
been made. The Runner is grown in market gardens
much closer than this, often only two feet between the
plants, and topped at two feet. No stakes are pro-
vided. It may be asked what advantage is there in
growing Runners thus when Dwarf Beans would not
require stopping. The answer is that the Runners crop
longer, root more deeply, and are not so quickly affected
by drought, and another point is that the pods, being
larger, are heavier, and more easily gathered. A second
sowing may be made in June for a late supply, as
these will supply better pods in greater quantities.
Carter's Scarlet Emperor and Sutton's Prizewinner
are two grand sorts.

Climbing French Beans. — These are much earlier
than the older Runner, more shapely, and very pro-

BEETROOT 47

ductive. Button's Earliest of All is a splendid type ;
the pods are very fleshy, succulent, and less stringy
than the ordinary Runner, and the pods are de-
licious if gathered when four or five inches long, and
cooked whole. Other fine varieties are the Excel-
sior, Epicure and Tender and True, the last-named
being a great cropper and very profitable for market.
It is not unlike the well-known Dwarf Canadian
Wonder in shape, and may be sown instead of that
variety. It runs about six feet high, and the plant
is very robust. Excelsior is a taller Bean, reaching
eight to ten feet in height, and the handsome pods
are produced in clusters. Epicure should be grown
in all gardens where quality is considered. Few are
better in this respect, and it is early. Grow the
Climbing Runner Beans in the same way as the
Runner, except that the plants need short stakes,
and may be sown earlier. One variety that should
find space on account of its excellence is Veitch's
Climbing ; it greatly resembles Tender and True, is of
delicious flavour, and a great cropper. It was given a
first class certificate by the Royal Horticultural Society
when it was introduced by a noted grower of vegetables.
These plants thrive under the same conditions as the
older type, and are enormous croppers when given a
rich root run, and ample supplies of moisture.

BEETROOT.

This is a root vegetable of great value as an
article of food, because, in addition to its ordinary

48 POPULAR VEGETABLES

properties, it contains sugar in considerable propor-
tions. Although it is seldom used as an ordinary
vegetable, it is a salad of remarkable excellence when
properly cooked, peeled and sliced. Whether used
with mixed salads, or eaten without ingredients it is
wholesome and delicious. If the nutritious pro-
perties of Beetroot were more fully understood the
roots would be regarded as a staple article of food.
There are two forms of Beet, the Round or the
Globular, which forms on the surface of the ground
in the process of growth, and the Long- or Tapering-
rooted, which buries itself in the soil. The Round-
rooted varieties are known as the Egyptian Turnip-
rooted, and the Globe-shaped or Crimson Globe.
The roots of the latter have a very dark and refined
flesh, and are much better altogether than those of
the Egyptian ; indeed, we need only consider the
Globular form. The great merit of this variety is
that it bulbs early in summer, and if seed be sown in
March or early in April in good soil, and the young
plants thinned to six inches apart in rows good fleshy
roots are available for use by the middle of July.
They become full grown a month later. Where
there is a large demand for early Beets for saladings,
or where good roots are required for exhibition at
Summer Shows, Sutton's Globe satisfies all require-
ments.

Tap-rooted Beets are represented by many varie-
ties. The best time to make sowings is during
April and May, but as a rule May is sufficiently

THE BRASSICAS 49

early. No one needs large roots, but rather those
of medium size, smooth and handsome.

Good red flesh varieties, the colour showing when
the flesh is cut into, are Blood-red, Dell's Crimson,
Pragnell's Exhibition and Nutting's Dwarf-red ;
varieties with a very dark, almost black, flesh are
Cheltenham Green Top and Button's Black. All
these varieties need similar culture. To have good
clean roots, trench the ground twenty inches deep
in winter, burying some half-decayed manure low
down. If by the spring the soil seems to have
hardened fork it well over, and sow the seed at the
times previously mentioned. Draw drills two inches
deep, twelve inches apart, and sow the seeds thinly along
the drills, then cover them up. When the seedlings
are three inches high thin them out to six inches
apart in the rows, and use the hoe frequently to stir
the soil and keep down weeds. The plants need little
further attention. If the ground has been manured
for a previous crop so much the better ; it is not wise
to apply fresh manure near the surface of the ground.

THE BRASSICAS.

We may group under this heading some of the most
important of green vegetables such as the Borecoles
or Kales, the Broccoli, Cauliflower and the Cabbage,
a large family indeed, and one that the grower must
cultivate largely to maintain a constant supply. It is
impossible to consider all these groups under one head-

4

5°

POPULAR VEGETABLES

ing as far as cultural advice is concerned, for the Cauli-
flower is quite distinct from the Kales, the former
belonging to the summer and the latter to the winter.
Like many other vegetables during the past quarter of
a century the Brassicas have been added to by many
new and improved varieties, especially the Broccoli
section. Although a quite hardy variety has yet to be
raised, the hybridist has obtained several of dwarfer
growth than the older forms, and these pass the winter
better than the large coarse kinds so much in favour.
The Kales, as is well known, are the least particular
of the whole race, as they are happy in almost all soils,
and remarkably hardy ; they are great favourites in
Scotland, where they are usually spoken of as " Scotch "
Kales.

The Cabbage again years ago was represented by
none too early varieties, and " bolting " or running to
seed was quite a usual condition. This is not the case
in the present day. Several excellent early Cabbages
are available of reasonable size.

BORECOLES.

There are many forms in this section, and the most
useful is the Scotch or Green Curled. Several splendid
hardy varieties have been raised, and a recent intro-
duction, the Arctic Curled, is most valuable, the Arctic
Green and Purple in particular being delicious green
vegetables. With regard to soils, the Kales are not par-
ticular, but we notice that the more deeply cultivated

BORECOLES 51

the ground, so much finer are the heads produced.
Their season is from October until May, and there
should be two sowings, one for an autumn supply,
and the other for a late winter, as if the seed is sown
too early, the plant is inclined to run to seed when
kept to meet a late supply. When a sowing is made
in March, and again after an interval of six weeks,
there will be a good early and late supply, but much
depends upon the seed bed. Much vigour is lost
through overcrowding ; indeed, it is far better to
sow late than too early and let the plants remain so
long in a crowded bed that they fight for supremacy,
until it becomes a question of the survival of the
fittest. When seedlings " brought up " in this way
are planted, several weeks elapse before the roots take
hold of the soil. In cold late districts the Kales are
sometimes treated like Spring Cabbage, that is, sown
in the late summer, and planted out in October or
November. A large plant is obtained in this way,
but it runs to seed quickly next season, so that it is
far better to sow early in March and plant out in
drills when ready. As the land is frequently occupied,
and the seedlings cannot be planted for a time, it is a
good plan to prick them out in lines, and then lift them
carefully later on into their permanent quarters. A
fair distance for most of the Kales is two feet between
the rows, and eighteen inches to two feet in the row,
according to the variety, the larger types requiring,
of course, more space. Plant in showery weather if
possible, and the remarks made as to pricking out the

52 POPULAR VEGETABLES

seedlings from the seed beds apply with equal force
to the other groups of this family, such as Brussels
Sprouts. Kales are best in an open quarter, where
fresh manures have not been given too heavily ; they
follow deep rooting crops well, such as Potatoes or
Celery. In light land it is wise to plant Kales after
Strawberries that have only been two years on the
land. Merely draw clean drills for the Kales, and
then plant, as one object is to secure a short sturdy
growth, not one that is soft and sappy. The latest
Kales are the large-leafed Cottagers, and the Asparagus,
the shoots of which are used. Reed's Hearting is a
late Scotch Curled, and a very fine type. Reference
has been made already to the Arctic Kales, and also
for early supplies the Dwarf Green Curled, the Sprout-
ing Kales, and Carter's Drumhead are all excellent
forms.

The variegated forms, although pretty, cannot be
recommended for the garden, owing to their want of
hardiness, in fact, save for their decorative value they
are useless.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS.

This well-known vegetable needs a longer season
of growth than the Borecole. When the seed is
sown early and other matters are carefully attended
to a splendid yield is the result. The large, coarse,
loose Sprout, not unlike a small Savoy cabbage, is
useless, and should never be encouraged. It is the

BRUSSELS SPROUTS 53

medium or small bullet-like Sprout that is produced so
freely and possesses such a delicate flavour. There is
no loss in growing these varieties, as, though the plant
is smaller, a greater quantity can be grown in the
same space than of the larger varieties. Sow the seed
in frames or boxes in January, and prick the seedlings
off about six inches apart and early in May lift them
with a trowel and place in their permanent quarters, a
yard apart between the rows and two feet from plant
to plant, indeed some growers plant them a yard
apart each way. It is wise to prepare a piece of land
specially for this vegetable, and so draw the drills
that it is easier to water the plants at the start. This
is a great gain in dry soils, but as the rows are three
feet apart the land must not be empty so long, so
that in February plant such crops as Spinach, Lettuce
or anything else that is cleared off before the crop
encroaches on the Brussels Sprouts, but, of course,
this smaller catch crop is between the rows. One
row will suffice ; the crop of Spinach should be sown
early and not allowed to remain after June.

The ordinary method of culture is to sow as early
as possible in March on a warm border, and plant
out when the seedlings are large enough ; indeed, the
earlier they are planted the better, as, when a hot dry
summer follows, the progress made is disappointing.
It is also a wise plan to make a later sowing in April,
but so sow the seed that there is ample room for the
seedlings. From this sowing the latest supplies are
secured. As the plants are dwarf the Sprouts re-

54 POPULAR VEGETABLES

main sound until late in spring, and this batch usually
follows early Potatoes, such as the Ashleaf.

The same remarks concerning seed sowing in the
autumn recommended for Kales apply to Brussels
Sprouts.

Brussels Sprouts should not occupy the same land
for several seasons, as they need plenty of food, and
the soil gets " sick" ; indeed, in the case of all the
Cabbage tribe a change of soil should always be given,
if possible, otherwise the roots club badly.

When it is seen that the soil promotes clubbing,
give a change of crop, and dress the land with lime,
soot and wood ashes or charred refuse, also dress with
gas lime in the early autumn months, that is, some
time in advance of planting. Turn the land up
roughly, and then fork it over in the early spring
to allow the weather to sweeten and pulverise it.
There are several splendid varieties for early supplies ;
the Paragon is a very fine type for late use, while
Matchless and Ridgewell's Cambridge Champion are
specially good for the garden varieties. The latter
is one of the best keeping, and of compact growth.

THE CABBAGE.

The ; Cabbage is, we think, after the Potato the
most important vegetable in the garden, and more
relished in early spring than at any other season. It
is a matter for regret, however, that more attention
is not paid to the autumn and winter varieties, such

THE CABBAGE 55

as Christmas Drumhead, St. John's Day, and the
new St. Martin. Cabbages may be grown in private
gardens all the year round, as in the late autumn we
have the Gem and Favourite types, delicious little
Cabbages, and a few weeks earlier than these the
useful Colewort is in season.

For a first supply sowings should be made from
the middle to the end of July according to the
locality, and give ample room in the seed bed. Some
gardeners usually make two sowings, one the second
week in July, and one in the last week, and if the
first sowing proves too large, the loss is not great, as
the plants come in useful for greens. A large plant-
ing is not usually made from the early sowing, but a
full one from the second, selecting an open position, and
well-cultivated soil. In many gardens no manure is
given, but the land is simply dug for the early crop,
that previously used for Onions being chosen. The
soil for the Cabbage is then of the right character.
Drills are drawn eighteen inches apart, and the plants
made firm, this preparation ensuring a sturdy growth
that does not suffer in severe weather. If the plants
are placed in drills, it is an easy matter as the winter
advances to mould them up to protect the stem,
which is most influenced by frost. Young Cabbage
plants are certainly not so successful in loose, recently
manured land as in that made reasonably firm. They
must absorb the food before winter sets in, when
growth is almost at a standstill. The best time to
feed is early in the season, when growth begins, and

56 POPULAR VEGETABLES

then the crop can take advantage of the nitrates and
other quick-acting fertilisers applied. Have a second
lot of plants to follow the first, that is, if a portion
of land is planted in February there should be a
succession. Do not leave the plants in the seed
beds all the winter, as, of course, severe losses occur,
but at the time of planting in the autumn for first
spring cutting prick out the seedlings in a well-drained
soil six inches apart, and then form each row as the
work proceeds. Place them well down in the soil
where they will pass the winter safely, and make
capital material for planting in February.

For the summer crop sow the seed early in the
year, either in frames or in the open. If under glass
the crop catches up the early spring supply, as those
planted out in March soon turn in.

Owing to various causes there may be at times
a dearth of autumn-sown plants, and to avoid this
sow a little seed of an early variety in boxes or pans
under glass. Sown early in January such varieties
as Earliest or Early April will be ready in May
if the seedlings are pricked out in boxes or frames,
planted out in rich soil and well attended to.

Summer Cabbages will not need much space, but
where green vegetables are required in plenty this
crop is valuable, whilst it is easily produced. Sow the
seed in the open in April and give ample room in seed
beds to allow ready lifting of the plants, and a supply
will result from July to September. Such varieties
as Matchless, Gem, Favourite, Little Pixie, Tender

THE CABBAGE 57

and True, and Beaconsfield are excellent for the
summer, the last two being the largest, but these are
all garden varieties, that is, of a compact growth.

Autumn Cabbages. — These may be placed in the
front rank for the reason that in summer, with its
wealth of choice vegetables, there is not so great a
demand for Cabbages, but in the autumn this crop
is welcome. The Coleworts, of course, form an im-
portant part of the autumn supply, and seed should
be sown in May and July, the earlier date for supplies
in late September and through October, and July for
the later crop. These small Cabbages, of which the
Rosette and Hardy Green are types, are of good
quality ; the Rosette is of compact growth, but less
hardy than the other. They make a quick growth,
and as this is developed in late summer a rich root
run should be given with ample moisture. Little
Pixie, Favourite and Little Gem are sown sometimes
for November supplies, and though small they are
most valuable, withstanding extremes of cold and wet
weather better than the Rosette form.

Winter Cabbages. — This crop brings up the supply
until a Spring Cabbage is ready. Winter Cabbages
are distinguished by their firm and compact growth,
short leg or stem, and good flavour. Christmas
Drumhead, the St. John's Day and St. Martin are
all trustworthy winter varieties, and keep sound for
weeks after full growth has been reached ; they are
not large but of splendid quality. The variety St.
Martin was raised by Mr. G. Wythes, in the Syon

58 POPULAR VEGETABLES

House Gardens, Middlesex, the parents being the
Rosette Colewort and Christmas Drumhead. Those
sown in May and June, according to the locality, will
keep up the supply to the date mentioned. They
should be planted in an open, exposed border and in
a good soil, and, like the Colewort, little space is neces-
sary, eighteen inches between the rows being ample.

Savoy Cabbage. — Savoys are best when grown
for a late autumn or mid-winter supply, and one of
their virtues is their hardiness, as when not sown too
early they stand the winter splendidly. If an early
supply is desired seed sown in March will give pro-
duce in August, but rarely are Savoys wanted at this
date as so many other vegetables are then in season.
A small variety is preferable for a first supply, such
as the Early Ulm and Earliest of All. These make
a very compact growth and may be always planted
a foot apart. There are some good varieties for
a mid-season supply : the Perfection, Golden Globe
and Reliance being quite safe in all ways. Great
value should be placed upon the late sowings to
provide the table from November until spring, and
from seed sown in May heads will be obtained into
the spring, selecting for this sowing Reliance, a small
Savoy, New Year, a variety of medium growth, and
the well-known Drumhead. The last mentioned needs
more space than the others, two feet between the rows
and eighteen inches in the rows being the correct dis-
tance to plant. The New Year also needs more space
than the earlier ones and should be sown in April for

BROCCOLI 59

early winter supplies. The plants may with advantage
follow early Potatoes, Spinach, or similar crops, and
require a good root run.

BROCCOLI.

This is a popular vegetable, and can be obtained
for about nine months of the year if the early autumn
varieties are grown, and the latest such as Queen
and Model. Unfortunately, the mid-winter and late
Broccoli are none too hardy, being quickly affected
by frost or north-east winds. Several valuable addi-
tions have been made of late years, and, though in
many parts of the country, success is not so pro-
nounced as in Cornwall, owing to the mild climate,
this useful vegetable deserves to be grown well over
a long season. Broccoli must always receive a change
of quarters, no matter what variety is grown, as soil
soon tires of this vegetable. The late varieties are
sometimes planted after early Peas, Beans and Potatoes,
and excellent returns of late Queen can be secured on
land that has previously borne a single crop of Straw-
berries. When Strawberries are grown as annuals the
soil is in good condition for late Broccoli at the end
of June, but the plants must be robust, not thin and
weakly seedlings. Much depends upon the soil, date
of planting and variety, as to the distance to plant.
Avoid rank manures which encourage a soft sappy
growth that soon succumbs to frost. For the early
Broccoli more food may be given, treating the plants

60 POPULAR VEGETABLES

more like the Cauliflowers, which need liberal supplies
of food.

Autumn Broccoli. — This type of Broccoli is very
popular, but not so good in flavour as the spring
and late varieties. It is unwise to get huge autumn
produce for a private garden. The Autumn or
Self-protecting are very valuable, and from seed sown
late in February or March, good heads result in Sep-
tember. Make the March sowing on good land, and
plant out in May or early June, in rows two feet
apart, with eighteen inches between the plants. Six
inches more room will be better each way on good
land. The same distance will suffice for Michaelmas
White, a superb variety of recent introduction, of
good "protecting qualities," and coming true to season.
When sown at the above dates the produce will be
ready at Michaelmas. The older Walcheren should
not be forgotten. Sown in March and May a suc-
cession will be provided to Christmas.

Winter Broccoli. — There are many varieties of
spring Broccoli, and all are uncertain at times, but
this is readily explained. During the autumn of
1901, for instance, the plants were making splendid
growth, but very early in the season from fifteen to
twenty degrees of frost occurred, which arrested
it. The early autumn varieties suffered less severely
than the early winter ones. Late planted Broccoli
do not make in some seasons much progress at the
start owing to heat and drought, with the result that
at the end of the summer growth becomes very luxu-

BROCCOLI 6 1

riant under the influence of cooler nights and greater
moisture ; the plants are tenderer and more susceptible
to frost. The hardy varieties should be selected, not
so much for mere size as for their compact growth,
and the way they keep. Some gardeners would say
that it is an easy matter to lift plants that have heads
of any size, and store ; but it is useless to lift those
only just forming. Christmas White, Vanguard,
Early White and Penzance are excellent winter
Broccoli, and mature in the order named. Snow's
Winter White is one of the best when the seed can be
obtained true. All the winter and spring Broccoli
should be grown on an open, exposed site, without
coddling, as the growth cannot be too hardy. It is
not unusual to find that almost the entire winter crop
has been killed in sheltered gardens, whereas in open
fields losses are less severe, the plants are hardier and
resist extremes of weather. The plants like a good
loamy soil, or what is called a holding soil, as fewer
losses occur if the plants are not too small. A long
growing season is not desirable. Much depends upon
the planting. Firmness is essential, and early planting
saves much watering. It is a wise plan to plant quite
small seedlings in their permanent quarters, an easy
thing to do in drills, as though a few plants may die
the blanks can be soon made good. Much time is
thus saved, as once the plant has a fair root hold it
grows freely. The longer the seedlings of any of the
Brassicas remain in the seed beds the more likely are
they to get drawn and badly " clubbed ".

62 POPULAR VEGETABLES

Spring Broccoli. — Many of the remarks concern-
ing the earlier and mid-season Broccoli apply to the
spring crop, but the varieties must be considered.
Aim at getting variety. Some of the splendid late
varieties are called Early Summer Broccoli, and in
late seasons they are most valuable. The Universal
Protecting Broccoli is considered by many gardeners
even later than the well-known Late Queen. It is
not of unduly strong growth, and the stock is very
true from seed. It is advisable to sow the late
varieties either towards the end of April or early
in May. Ensure a good seed bed, and plant early.
For earlier cutting in April and May, the Model and
Late Queen will provide a supply, and add to these
Champion, Late White Bouquet (more .like a spring
Cauliflower, a delicious flavour), and Carter's Eclipse
(an old and trustworthy variety). Several others might
be included in this list, but variety is not everything.
The plants require proper attention at the start, and
in winter and early spring protect the head, which
may be done by tying the outer leaves over it.

THE CAULIFLOWER.

This vegetable is at its best during the summer
months, namely from May till October, but the most
delicately flavoured heads are generally produced in
May and June. The Cauliflower matures more
quickly than the Broccoli, and therefore requires
considerable " feeding ". The old system of getting

^

THE CAULIFLOWER 63

an early supply by sowing in the autumn has much
to recommend it if the plants can be housed under
glass, but severe winters are fatal in many parts of
the kingdom. Several years ago Cauliflowers were
grown well in turf pits about three feet deep made
in the autumn with walls of freshly cut turf. They
were covered in severe weather with thatched hurdles.
As glass erections are now common, Cauliflowers are
often placed in cold frames and planted out in March.
Another way is to pot up in small pots in October,
and winter under glass and plant out. In sheltered
gardens those placed under south walls or given hand-
glass protection are valuable, where they pass through
the winter satisfactorily. Cauliflowers were also planted
under good-sized hand-glasses in October, from nine
to twelve under each, and early in the spring all were
lifted except the four corner ones over which the
glass still remained. Those lifted were planted for a
succession on a south border and in rich soil. The
seed is usually sown in August or September, and in
dry seasons the bed must be well watered to assist
germination.

With the introduction, however, of such first
crop varieties as Forerunner and Early Forcing, it
is not so necessary to sow in autumn, as seed of these
varieties sown in heat in January, and the seedlings
pricked out in boxes or in a warm frame will provide
excellent heads by the end of May. Of course, the
plants raised in heat will need more protection when
planted out, but harden them well previously by giv-

64 POPULAR VEGETABLES

ing plenty of air. Plant in very rich soil. Seed of
the small Early Snowball may be sown in February
in frames, and good heads cut in thirteen weeks from
the date of sowing, but a rich root run is essential.
Other early kinds, such as the Older Early London,
Early Walcheren and Defiance Forcing, are all useful
for open-air sowing at the season named.

Summer Cauliflowers. — There is an excellent choice
of summer varieties. When the Walcheren is sown
in March, April and May, a succession is provided.
The Esprit Mammoth, the Pearl, Purity, King of
Cauliflowers and Magnum Bonum are all excellent.
The summer plants can frequently occupy spaces be-
tween tall growing crops such as Runner Beans and
Peas, and when grown in this way they can be cleared
away in autumn. Summer Cauliflowers give little
trouble. The seed is sown in the open, and the
seedlings planted out in May, June and July ; they
will crop well into the early autumn, when the true
autumn varieties become plentiful. Remember that
Cauliflowers delight in much moisture, plenty of
manure and ample supplies of liquid manure, with a
mulch of decayed manure in summer when the soil is
very light. The plants must always be two feet apart.

Autumn Cauliflowers. — This section contains some
of the largest of all the varieties. The well-known
Autumn Giant, Autumn Mammoth and Esprit
Mammoth are all excellent for giving supplies from
September to November. This sowing usually takes
place in March or April. Six months' growth is

CUCUMBERS 65

necessary in the case of the large growers, such as
King of Cauliflowers and Giant. The soil must be
rich and ample space provided, two and a half feet
apart being the correct distance to plant. Some
growers sow even earlier than advised in cold frames,
sometimes in autumn, and plant out early in April.
As in the case of Broccoli, the Cauliflower should
receive a change of soil ; it enjoys a rich, loose
medium, as it is a gross " feeder ". In poor soils or
in land frequently cropped with the Cabbage tribe,
" clubbing " is general. In South Devon excellent
results are gained by sowing the autumn varieties in
the open in September, and grown thus, failure is
not frequent in hot and dry summers. The flowers or
heads should not get too old. When of medium size
or quite small it is wise to cut them for private use.
In the case of a late crop, pull up the plants and place
them in a cool place ; it is far better that this should
be done than to allow them to open and thus lose
quality.

CUCUMBERS.

There are few gardens of any size in which
Cucumbers are not grown in the summer season.
Frequently the best means are not at command for
the production of late fruits, but they can be pur-
chased in mid-winter for as many pence as they
could shillings some forty or fifty years ago. This
reminds one also of the great progress that has
taken place both in culture and quality. The old

5

66 POPULAR VEGETABLES

ridge or open-air Cucumber is grown much less
than formerly, but, if used as pickle or vegetable, it
is well worth more attention. Even this form of
Cucumber is an improvement upon what it was
years ago ; the fruits are now more shapely, and
of better colour.

With regard to culture much depends upon when
the fruits are desired and the length of the supply.
If grown in a pit or house with bottom heat from
hot-water pipes, then the-ir cultivation is easier.

Early Crops. — To get an early crop under glass
seed should be sown in small pots early in the year ;
many good growers sow in December or even ear-
lier for the first crop, but unless a strong plant is
secured there is no gain, but rather loss, as by sowing
too early a weak plant results. It is better to sow
so that when the seedlings have made three or four
leaves they can be planted out in a warm bed. The
warmth will soon promote root formation up the
stem, and with frequent top dressings the growth will
be strengthened. At the time of sowing the bed or
soil should be ready, as the soil must be warm. If
any delay should occur in making up the bed or
planting the seedlings, shift the plants into larger
pots, using a good light but rich compost, previously
warmed through. Then plunge the plants in a warm
bed to induce new root action. When placing the
soil in the beds use a good turfy, light loam, enriched
with cow manure or thoroughly decayed horse manure,
and, if possible, a small quantity of wood ashes.

CUCUMBERS 67

Much depends upon the grower as to the quantity of
soil to use at the start. When ample top dressing
can be given, as in large market gardens, larger
quantities of soil are given at the start, with only top
dressing or rich manure afterwards, but the market
grower soon exhausts the plants, cutting a larger
quantity of fruit at one time. A bushel of soil is
ample to begin with, and as soon as the surface roots
are running freely, add more, this being given every
fortnight or three weeks, and as the plants come into
bearing, such aids as bone-meal, or an approved
quick-acting fertiliser are mixed with the soil. When
planting, allow at least a yard between the plants ;
overcrowding is not an advantage. When liberal
treatment is given, and the seeds are sown, say,
early in January, fruits should be cut early in March.
There is no difficulty whatever in having fruits in six
weeks from the time of sowing, that is, if sown a
little later on. Plants from seed sown in March, and
grown in a liberal temperature, should fruit in six
weeks, but there must be no check. Provide a rich
root run and warm moist atmosphere.

When started allow the growth to reach the roof
without any stopping back, unless there is an abund-
ance of side or lateral growths, when the point of the
leader may be taken out, and the shoots trained right
and left. It is needful to fertilise the flowers early
in the year, and when this is done to stop the over-
head dampings for a time.

The house must never get dry, except when

68 POPULAR VEGETABLES

the first fruits are showing, not later, as with increased
sunlight and greater strength the flowers set freely,
indeed too much so. Many plants are ruined through
overcropping. The Cucumber plant will in fine
weather require much root moisture, and the water
must always be of the same temperature as the house.
Give food freely also.

With regard to overhead syringing, be cautious
at first, as then the plant is weak. A fine spraying
twice a day will then suffice, but with increased
strength more water may be given in every way.
Keep the house quite moist, especially the bed near
the hot-water pipes. To sum up, heat and moisture
are essential in Cucumber culture.

Temperature and Shade. — Temperature plays an
important part, also ventilation and shade, but the
most successful growers rarely ventilate their Cucumber
houses, but shade and keep them as moist as possible,
when the fruiting stage is quickly reached. Cucumbers
delight in a high temperature and moisture, and under
these conditions insect pests are less troublesome and
new growths abundant when the roots are constantly
fed and the plant is not overcropped at one time. The
day temperature may range from 65° to 80° accord-
ing to the season ; thus, in January 65° to 70° would
suffice with less moisture, while in May the maximum
temperature would be more suitable, while the night
temperature may range from 65° to 70° or 75° in
warmer weather. The fires must not, however, be
driven hard as dry hot pipes encourage green fly and

CUCUMBERS 69

red spider ; the weather should be taken into account,
and, if possible, in the case of early plants, say, those
in growth from January to May, always cover the
glass at night, as this saves hard stoking, and the
atmosphere is kept moist and sweet.

In gardens where more ventilation is allowed and
less shade, the steaming process is not followed, but
the ventilators should be opened very sparingly until
the plants are strong, and then avoid cold draughts ;
shade as early as required. Always close the house
before the sun leaves it, no matter if the thermometer
runs up to 90° or 100°. If ample moisture is given
in all parts of the house, so much the better.

The Training. — Plants need careful training.
Gradually cut out the old fruiting wood, and train in
new growths. This is important, and should be done
weekly, removing old leafage not required, and laying
in new wood, stopping shoots when necessary and re-
moving badly shaped fruits, or those too thickly placed,
to prevent that greatest of all evils, over-cropping.

Frame Plants. — These are not planted so early, but
if the seed is sown in March or April the plants are a
success. Much depends upon the frame, whether it
is heated by hot-water pipes or only by manure. If
by the latter, an April sowing will be sufficiently early.
It is unnecessary to describe the way the plants should
be raised, as the routine is the same as for house plants,
except that in gardens where there are only frames
Cucumbers are raised after the manure is warm. With
pipes there is, of course, less trouble, and much the

70 POPULAR VEGETABLES

same treatment is followed as in a house, except that
the plants are on the bed. When there is no bottom
heat start early, and with hot manure, which should
be well rammed, and the heat allowed to rise freely
before planting out. It is an excellent plan also to
incorporate slow heating materials with the manure to
prevent violent heat at the start, as this often cripples
the strongest growth. Give the same kind of soil as
previously advised. When this is placed in a heap in
the centre of the light or sash, about nine inches from
the glass, two plants may be planted, when a quick
return is desired. If not, then use one plant, and stop
the growth when about twelve inches long, and train
the shoots top and bottom, using small pegs to keep
them in position. When there are two treat in the
same way, allowing half the space to each. Less
moisture is needed for frame Cucumbers, and especi-
ally when manure is used to provide heat. One or two
top dressings will suffice for frame plants, which must
not be exposed to cold draughts, and give shade during
the hottest part of the day, covering the glass at night
when the plants are being started. Feed freely with
liquid manure when the fruits are plentiful, and go
over the plants weekly, lay in new growths, stop gross
shoots, and cut out, where possible, old wood and leaves.
Winter Cucumbers. — These require similar culture
to the earlier house plants, but the seed must be
sown in August or September, and the seedlings
grown on freely until November. They must not
be allowed to fruit until then. A strong plant is

• . .*•

CUCUMBERS 71

necessary by the time the days are shortening, other-
wise there will be no fruit. The same temperatures
will suffice, at least, the minimum one will be suitable,
that is 70° by day or 65° in dull cold weather, and 60°
to 65° at night, but allow the thermometer to rise
freely by sun heat, and give tepid water when re-
quired. Cold water, or an excess and cold draughts at
this time of the year will bring mildew. Give less
soil at the roots, letting this be light and well-drained,
and give top dressing when needed. Pot culture is
excellent for winter plants, and this mode of culture
is more suitable when the bottom heat is none too
good, as by using sixteen- or eighteen-inch pots warm
manures may be given to assist root growth. The
pots may be placed on bricks over hot-water pipes
with good results, and plants grown in this way make
a short-jointed growth. When the pots are in the
house in the autumn, they are only partially filled
with soil, more being added as the growth progresses,
but at all times it is well to make the soil in pots
fairly firm. The following are excellent varieties at
all seasons : — Button's Every Day, Satisfaction, Im-
proved Telegraph, Matchless, Market Gem and
Lockie's Perfection.

Outdoor Plants. — These are usually raised in frames
or under hand-glasses. They are a success if treated
in the same way as a vegetable marrow, and well repay
a rich root run, and, if possible, a little fermenting
material at the roots at the start, while a little timely
protection may be given overhead after planting.

72 POPULAR VEGETABLES

Cucumbers are quite a success in frames on a bed
of some kind raised from the surface, and if the seeds
are sown early in May, and the seedlings planted out
in June, that will suffice. For pickling use only small
fruits, and the plants may be grown close together.
The market grower's plan is a good one, and consists
in planting as advised for vegetable marrows, i.e., about
two and a half feet apart. King of the Ridge is one
of the best varieties for the open air. In warm
soils and localities a sowing can be made in the open
beds the third week in May.

MUSHROOM GROWING IN GARDEN, FIELD AND
COTTAGE PLOT.

Among the vegetables produced in garden or
field the Mushroom is one of the most popular, and
this popularity is not confined to one class. The
difficulty is to obtain the article in a fresh condition
and in sufficient quantities at a moderate price. This
latter difficulty places the Mushroom entirely out of
the reach of the masses of the people for certainly
ten months out of the twelve, as except during
September and October, when they are plentiful in
some seasons in the fields, the price otherwise is
prohibitive, being never less than is. per lb., and
this not for fleshy, fresh British-grown Mushrooms,
but for thin, dry and hard French ones, only fit for
soups and flavourings. It must not be inferred from
the above statement that there are no Mushrooms
grown in England on commercial principles, as the

MUSHROOM GROWING 73

reverse is the fact, and so much are those fresh
Mushrooms appreciated that they are immediately
disposed of to regular customers at handsome prices
in the local markets.

The Mushroom is a native of Britain, and can be
grown here to a greater perfection than in any other
part of the world, either out of doors in our fields, or
under artificial conditions in houses specially prepared,
or on the out-of-door system as practised by market
garden growers.

With regard to the natural field crops in autumn
after a hot summer, followed by warm and heavy
showers of rain, on most of our warm and properly
drained meadow lands, the valuable Mushroom comes
up in generous quantities, and that without the help
of man ; indeed, as a welcome gift from the lap of
Nature, a gift of late years which has helped the
farmer more on many occasions to pay the rent than
have the ordinary cultivated crops of the farm. It is
a moot question, but beyond the province of this
work, as to whether field Mushrooms cannot be grown
profitably ; it is well worth a trial, and is a hint to
the Board of Agriculture and others interested.
The cultivation of the Mushroom is dealt with from
four different standpoints : (i) The professional or
private gardener ; (2) the amateur ; (3) the market
gardener ; and (4) the cottager, closing with a few
hints as to successful methods of field culture, with a
chapter of instructions how to manufacture Mush-
room spawn.

74 POPULAR VEGETABLES

In the homes of the rich there are for the most
part the necessary materials for producing satisfactory
crops in every season of the year, and managed as
these gardens are by highly trained and experienced
gardeners, it would seem superfluous to offer any
remarks for their guidance on the growing of Mush-
rooms. Simple as it may seem to the inexperienced,
the Mushroom is an erratic crop. The young horti-
cultural student, earnestly endeavouring to qualify
himself at some future time, not too remote, let us
hope, for a responsible head gardener's position, will
find a knowledge of Mushroom growing among the
most useful of his acquisitions, as in good and well-
equipped gardens Mushrooms are in urgent demand
and expected almost every day in the year, and failure
in the supply often makes matters very unpleasant for
the gardener. Our first consideration must be the

Manure and its Preparation^ the two funda-
mental principles on which success or failure rests.
With regard to the most suitable material, horse manure
is the best, and if good results are to be obtained the
manure from corn-fed animals when little or no drugs
are given should be chosen. Manure from heavily
drugged horses is absolutely of no use for successful
Mushroom growing, and this is one of the important
points to notice. With regard to stables in private
establishments this precaution is not so necessary, but
where London or any other city's stable manure is
the medium the grower cannot be too careful as to the
quality of the manure he has to deal with.

f

MUSHROOM GROWING 75

The Mushroom grower must be on good terms
with the coachman or the man in charge of the stables,
who will separate the manure of sick horses, and in
this way prove a good friend. Some stables are pro-
vided with a covered roof over the manure yard, and,
where this is the case, it will be sufficient if the stable
manure is fetched away every three days, it must be
taken away in the rough, long and short together.
Where this provision does not exist it will be better
to fetch the manure away every day, or at least every
other day, and place it in a dry, open shed in the
garden, as on keeping rain away from the manure
depends much of the ultimate success of the crops.
Whether it is decided to clear away the manure daily,
every other day, or twice a week, let it be delivered,
if possible, into a dry, open shed, where there is a free
circulation of air, or minus an open shed, in some
sheltered, dry and airy corner of the garden, where
it can be protected and turned over, and the extra
moisture liberated until it is dry enough to place in a
heap to undergo slight fermentation. The first thing
to do with the long and short manure from the stables
is to turn it over with a three- or four-tined fork. A
fork of this width will admit of all the actual manure
falling through by slightly shaking it, as well as much
of the short, littery straw. This is all we want from
the manure for the purpose of making Mushroom
beds, the long straw being laid on one side for other
purposes, when it will be most useful, especially when
the market garden aspect of Mushroom culture is dealt

76 POPULAR VEGETABLES

with. The next process after the manure is properly
shaken out from the rough straw is to lay it out on
the floor of the shed at an even thickness of about
seven inches in order to expose it to the air for the
purpose of drying, and also to cause a very slow and
almost imperceptible fermentation. Every load de-
livered must be served in the same way, and the whole
turned over with the fork about every three or four
days in order to liberate rank gases. After under-
going this process for about ten days or a fortnight
the manure will be fit to throw together into a large
heap to cause further fermentation, thereby reducing
the heat of the manure to the temperature of 80° or
8z° Fahr., when it will be of a safe and proper tem-
perature to form into beds in the Mushroom house
proper or wherever else it may be proposed to construct
the beds.

Upon the careful preparation and the proper con-
dition the manure may be in at the time the beds are
made up depends to a larger extent than on any other
particulars the success or otherwise of the crops. It
is a well-known fact that Mushrooms abound in nitro-
gen. It is also well known that nitrogen is found in
considerable quantities in the manure of horses, there-
fore in subjecting the manure to fermentation there is
danger if this process is overdone of the nitrogen escap-
ing in the way of ammonia to the great detriment of
the manure and the subsequent crops. The chief
lesson to be learnt from this is to be careful to prevent
at all costs too rapid a fermentation and the consequent

MUSHROOM GROWING 77

high temperature. 'By adding, say, two barrowloads
of soil to the cartload of manure and mixing well before
the manure is formed into a heap for the purpose of
fermentation, this mould will answer the useful pur-
pose of absorbing the nitrogen, preventing its escape,
and preserving it for the Mushrooms later on. The
manure after being placed in a heap as advised should
remain so for, say, three or four days. If not overdry
when put up three days is quite long enough, but
if moderately dry four days is not too long. The
safest and best plan is to put a trial stick in the heap,
one long enough to reach to the centre, say, three feet
deep. It should be examined on the second and every
subsequent day, and if the stick becomes in any way
too hot for the hand to bear the heap must be opened
out at once and the manure spread out for a few hours
to cool, and afterwards put up again in the same way,
and the same precautions taken with the trial sticks,
etc., as regards heat, and if still too high the heap must
be opened out again to cool and be reformed in the
course of a few hours as before, when it will be found
that the heat will have dropped to about 85° or 90°,
and ready for forming the beds. The work of opening
up the manure again in removing it to the Mush-
room house will further reduce the temperature a
little, bringing it down to about 80° or 82°, which, as
we said before, it should be at the time the beds are
formed.

Before leaving the important subject of the manure
let us again reiterate the vital points to observe in its

78 POPULAR VEGETABLES

preparation if the best results are to be obtained — rain
to be kept off ; expose to the air in thin layers in a shed
to dissipate moisture without undue fermentation.
When this process has been carefully attended to, fer-
mentation afterwards, when the manure is formed in a
heap as advised, is much less violent and more gradual,
thereby reducing the loss of nitrogen by the escape of
ammonia to a minimum. In this way not only are
heavier crops of better Mushrooms secured, but the
beds will last in bearing half as long again as will those
formed from manure which has been overheated and
put up wet. The latter conditions are undoubtedly
accountable for more failures than most people are
aware of. We must here mention that those who aspire
to grow Mushrooms under artificial conditions such as
we are now considering, and who have only a limited
quantity of manure to deal with, must not wait until
a large heap is collected together sufficient to form a
good-sized bed, because if they do that manure first
collected would be overspent and practically useless
before a good-sized heap could be got together. There-
fore the bed must be made up in small sections at a
time as the manure is got ready, and this is really an
advantage than otherwise, as a moderate and well-
sustained supply is secured rather than a glut at one
season and scarcity at another.

How to Form the Beds. — The system now under
consideration is the one followed in private gardens
where a proper house is available for the purpose.
The house is generally a lean-to with a north aspect,

MUSHROOM GROWING 79

situated at the back of vineries, etc., or of a garden
wall, and no better position could be found. If it
is sunk below the ground level so much the better,
as it is less subject to fluctuations of temperature
and more easily kept in a humid state. The beds
should be formed on either side with a path in the
middle, and three and a half feet wide is the most
convenient width for the bed. The depth should be
nine inches. The best material to form the beds
with is stone, brick or slate, but not wood or any-
thing perishable. It is then well- under the grower's
control in respect to gathering the Mushrooms.

Watering and General Notes. — Usually the season
for forming Mushroom beds in houses begins towards
the end of August. They cannot be satisfactorily
grown in these structures in summer (the mode of
culture suitable to this period will be treated of later
on). The first essential to success is that the grower
must be satisfied that the house is perfectly clean and
sweet and free from insect pests — such as woodlice,
cockroaches, etc. If he is not satisfied, now is his
time to make sure, in the first instance, by clearing
the house of every scrap of old soil or manure there
may have been left from previous crops, and thoroughly
scald all the walls and other surfaces of the house
with boiling water several times to make sure that
nothing alive can escape. Sometimes these pests lodge
in the roof, and the best way to destroy them is by
burning sulphur in the house. All that will be left
to do now to make the house ready is to have it care-

8o POPULAR VEGETABLES

fully washed out with quicklime. When the manure
is brought into the house it should first be placed
loosely in the beds, and allowed to remain so for a
few hours to let some of the steam pass away. As
soon as this has subsided the grower must then begin
to form the bed, beginning at the most convenient end.
The same principle of making the bed applies to beds
of all shapes, and in various positions, according to the
system to be adopted, therefore the mode of making
the bed described here will equally apply to forms of
beds under other systems. The grower should be
provided with a wooden mallet and ram the manure
well down as the work proceeds till a depth of nine
inches is secured. After all the available manure is
worked up in this way the bed should be as hard as
a board, and to make sure that it is so give a good
treading down with the feet. A hole should now be
dug out (in the middle of the bed) with a small trowel,
large enough to place a small thermometer in. After
placing it in cover over with manure, and indicate
the place with a small label. After the lapse of twelve
hours the temperature should be ascertained ; it will
probably stand at about 80°. If the manure is in
proper condition the temperature should rise within
the next twelve hours from 85° to 90° ; the ther-
mometer should be examined again at the end of
another twelve hours, when the heat will probably
be found on the decline, and as soon as it reaches
from 80° to 82° then is the time to insert the spawn.
Should it happen that the manure still inclines to rise

MUSHROOM GROWING 81

in temperature then the preparation has been faulty,
in so far that fermentation has been defective ; and
rather than let it overheat itself the bed should be
again thrown open to cool and then be reformed as
before. It is, however, seldom necessary to do this.

Spawning. — Old and partly spent spawn is use-
less ; without healthy and active spawn good results
are out of the question.

The size of a brick of spawn is usually six inches
by nine inches ; this should be broken up by the
hand into from nine to twelve pieces, and these pieces
inserted in the bed ten inches apart into small cavities
previously prepared for them. These cavities should
only be deep enough to allow the spawn to be em-
bedded a trifle lower than the surface of the bed.
The spawning being completed as far as the lumps
are concerned, we have still left the loose spawn which
has fallen from the bricks in the act of breaking.
This should be carefully collected and spread over
the surface of the bed. This finished, a thin layer
of the same sort of manure as that forming the bed
should be spread over the spawn, and the whole sur-
face again well pressed down with the wooden mallet
previously spoken of. Further operations for the
moment must be governed by the temperature of the
bed. If this is steadily declining and has reached,
say, a point of 75°, then the bed must be sealed down.
By this is meant that a layer of soil (the siftings of
turf which has been used for potting form the best
material) should be laid over the bed about half an

6

82 POPULAR VEGETABLES

inch thick when finally pressed down. This soil
when applied should be neither too dry nor too moist,
so that it can be trodden down as firm as possible, and
then well watered with tepid water afterwards and
beaten with the back of a clean spade, so that the
surface will appear almost as smooth as if coated over
by a plasterer.

For the next month the cultivator will have little
or nothing to do in the way of attendance on the
Mushroom house. At this time of the year (Sep-
tember) his efforts must be directed to keeping the
house as cool as possible, and all that is required is to
damp the floor morning and afternoon with cold
water. The house, of course, must be kept dark.
At the end of a month after spawning the bed
should receive a good soaking of water at a tempera-
ture of 80° applied through a fine rose water-pot.
By a good soaking, is meant enough \.ater to soak
the crust of soil well through — but not the manure.
The young grower must not be too anxious or too
curious or look for quick results.

'The Crop. — In about five weeks from the date on
which the bed was spawned (the date must be in-
dicated by a label) the grower's heart should be glad-
dened by the sight of small disturbances here and
there in places all over the bed, sometimes in irregular
patches and sometimes in long thin lines — caused by
the activity and running of the spawn, which is soon
visible in streaks of white — as if cotton thread were
woven over the ground. Every day will now add to

MUSHROOM GROWING 83

the number and their size until, if all the conditions
are favourable, the whole body of the bed is clothed
completely with Mushrooms of the finest quality, a
sight as pleasing and as interesting as any garden crop
is capable of presenting.

Gathering. — Although a simple operation, a good
deal of the success and duration of the crops depends
on the careful way in which this work is executed.
The Mushroom should be gathered when it is about
three parts grown, usually about three inches across.
If allowed to become larger than this the quality
deteriorates, and useless exhaustion to the bed is
caused. At the stalk of the developed Mushroom
will be found clustered together a group of three or
four tiny Mushrooms, more attached to the stem than
to the bed. These will never attain to any further
size or usefulness, and therefore if, in collecting the
Mushrooms, the stalk be cut with a knife, as is the
common practice, what remains of the stalk in the
bed perishes as well as these tiny embryo Mushrooms,
causing more or less decay and sourness, which is
inimical to the success of succeeding Mushrooms. It
will be gathered from this that Mushrooms should
not be cut off with a knife. On the contrary, the
Mushroom should be taken hold of by the hand, and
given a gentle twist, when both the Mushroom, the
stalk and all the spent part will come away together,
leaving the bed sweet and clean, and in a most favour-
able condition for encouraging the growth of the
succeeding young ones.

84 POPULAR VEGETABLES

At this time of the year (October) little or no
fire heat will be required, therefore the house will
not dry very quickly, but the bed on the surface
must never be allowed to become parched, and if
bearing very heavily an application of warm water
will be necessary, at least once a week, and sometimes
twice. The paths and walls of the house should be
moistened over at least twice a day, but not saturated
too heavily. The first crop will remain in profitable
bearing from a month to six weeks, and after this
is exhausted the bed should be brushed over, clearing
away any loose bits of soil that may be on the sur-
face, and giving a good soaking of water at a tem-
perature of 85° to which a little common salt has
been added, a small wine-glassful to three gallons of
water. Shortly after this a second crop should result,
not so heavy as the first, neither will it last in bear-
ing so long, however, it should give a satisfactory
return. When this is over, as it will be in about
three weeks, the bed is then exhausted and must be
cleared out, making room for a succession of beds to be
formed one after the other, according to the quantity
of manure available. The last bed should be formed
in the house about the first week in May. After this
date the crop is not a profitable one in houses such as
we have been considering, on account of the weather
being too hot. After this date until September comes
round again they will succeed much better in open
sheds or even in the open air. Temperature and venti-
lation depend very much on the size of the house and

MUSHROOM GROWING 85

the number of pipes it is desirable to fix in order to
obtain the maximum of heat in severe weather. A
strong fire heat is at all times inimical to the well-
being of the Mushroom. Two rows of four-inch
pipes fixed each side the pathway not too near the
beds will be ample. Should the weather prove very
cold in the depth of winter, rather let the temperature
fall to 53° or 56° than force the fire unduly with the
object of keeping the house up to a normal tempera-
ture of 60°. The roof must be a sealed one on the
inside, with lath and plaster, with ventilators in the
apex at distances of twelve feet apart. Little or no
ventilation is ever required, and the ventilators are
fixed more for the purpose of letting out steam than
for admitting the circulation of air.

Reason of Failures. — Failure, from whatever cause
it may arise, will not be discovered until the bed has
been made and the time has arrived when a crop of
Mushrooms should be forthcoming. If a crop does
not appear, say, within two months after spawning,
the best thing to do would be to dig a hole in the bed
to see whether it is wet or dry or whether the spawn
has run or not. If it is dry and the spawn has partly
run, the bed will be all right, and after a good soaking
of warm water, at the temperature previously recom-
mended, a good crop may confidently be expected.
On the other hand, should the manure turn out to be
wet, and no appearance of the spawn permeating the
manure then the grower had better make up his mind
to turn out the bed at once, as it is useless expecting a

86 POPULAR VEGETABLES

crop under these conditions. The cause of the failure
in the latter case has without a doubt been the too wet
and overheated (at one time) condition of the manure,
leaving it as it were dead and without any recuperative
power. At another time the spawn may be at fault,
or the quality of the manure, its having been collected
from drugged horses, may be the cause. However,
these failures are the exception and not the rule, and
should be no discouragement to the increased growth
of this crop as a commercial undertaking, especially in
the suburbs of cities, where manure is plentiful and
cheap, as it is one of the most remunerative crops of
the garden to grow.

Mushroom Growing in Open Sheds. — The growth
of the Mushroom in the open shed is had recourse to
more in the private garden perhaps than in the market
garden, with the object of securing crops in the hot
weather from the end of June to the end of September,
when they cannot be well grown in the Mushroom
house proper. Any outbuilding will do that has a
roof over its walls, but preference should be given to
that part of it which may face the north. Here let
a bed be formed exactly on the same lines as advised
for the house (only it should be twelve inches deep)
and spawned as directed as soon as the conditions are
favourable, the surface soil smoothed and made firm.
The same must be covered over to the depth of five
or six inches with the long littery straw shaken out
of the manure when preparing for the Mushroom bed.
We are presuming that every precaution has been

MUSHROOM GROWING 87

taken in preparing these beds as directed for those in
houses. In that case the grower need not trouble to
examine the bed again at least for a month, unless he
apprehends ravages from rats, mice or other pests,
against which, of course, the beds must be protected.
In about a month or five weeks at the latest, the straw
covering may be removed, and the bed given a good
watering with warm water, as recommended before,
when the covering should again be placed on the bed.
In about ten days or a fortnight after this, the grower
should be rewarded with the appearance of what should
prove a heavy and remunerative crop. When these
beds are in full bearing the Mushrooms should be
picked about three times a week. It is not desirable
to uncover the beds oftener than is absolutely neces-
sary, as the fact of having to remove the straw too
often, however carefully the work may be carried out,
is attended with more or less damage to the crop.
The treatment for the second crop must be the same
as that advised for beds in houses.

Out-of-door Beds. — This is the system most fav-
oured, and almost exclusively practised by our market
gardeners in the suburbs of large cities where manure
is plentiful, especially round London, and where fabu-
lous sums are said to reward the growers for their skill
and labour.

By this method of growth it is possible to have
Mushrooms every day in the year, and that without
the protection of a building of any kind, and where
the cultivator is well up to the business, and especially

88 POPULAR VEGETABLES

when he can couple with it the trade of spawn
making, this branch of market gardening is without
doubt one of the most remunerative.

The out-of-door beds are formed in the shape
of wedge-shaped ridges, and these measure, when
they are built, rammed and completed, two and
a half feet wide at the base, the same in height,
and the ridge six inches wide at the top. The
material for these outside beds had better have a
larger proportion of short straw in its composition
than advised for indoor beds, for the reason that the
heat would be longer retained, and also that the rain
would be more effectually thrown off during the
winter. As soon as the beds are formed, and are in
a condition to receive the spawn, insert it, taking care
that the temperature is not above 82° and on the
decline. These conditions being secured, the beds
must be earthed up in a similar manner that Potato
clamps are earthed up. When this operation is com-
pleted, the beds should have a good watering with
warm water, and afterwards beaten with the back of
a spade until the surface is of a pasty consistency.
This will conserve the heat of the bed much longer
than if left rough. During warm summer months
the amount of necessary covering will be compara-
tively small, and the best material to use is the straw
taken out of the Mushroom bed material. As winter
advances, a heavier covering will be necessary, indeed,
the condition of the weather must govern the amount
of protecting material to be applied, and as long as

MUSHROOM GROWING 89

this is sufficient to keep up a temperature of from
45° to 50° on the surface of the beds, it is possible to
have Mushrooms off these beds even in the coldest
weather in winter.

During winter these beds will require little or no
water, but in spring and summer it must be applied
liberally two or three times a week, and after the
flush of the first crop is over a good soaking of
manure water from the cow or stable yard often
works wonders in securing a good second successional
crop. In the spring and summer the grower must
be on his guard against allowing these out-of-door
crops to become too dry, because once allowed to
become so it is most difficult effectually to saturate
them afterwards.

'The Artificial Cultivation of the Mushroom in
Pastures. — The only way which suggests itself to us
in which this can be successfully carried out is by
digging holes in pastures that are well drained, and
the soil of not too heavy a texture, and inserting in
these holes, which should be twelve inches deep and
the same in width, as much manure (prepared in the
same way as advised for beds) as will fill the hole
within three inches of the surface, leaving room to
cover the hole over after the manure and spawn are
inserted with the turf three inches thick. The manure
should be rammed into the hole as tight as possible,
and the spawn, a piece about four inches square, in-
serted at the same time, as there is no danger of this
small quantity of manure overheating. Finish the

9o POPULAR VEGETABLES

work by placing the turf over the hole, and treading
the same with the feet as hard as possible. Should hot
weather soon follow after this work is completed it
is most likely the turf might be killed, and as it is
not desirable that water should reach the spawn or
the manure at this stage, cover each turf over with
half a spadeful of mould or earth of some sort. This
will keep it moist and fresh until it has had time to
strike fresh roots and begin to grow again, which it
soon will do when it feels the influence of the manure.
As regards the season of the year in which the spawn
should be inserted any time during the month of May
will answer well. Before this time the earth is too cold
and would have an injurious effect on the spawn, and
should the season be a late and cold one, defer the
work until the last week in May. Should the summer
prove dry and hot give a good soaking of water towards
the end of July, and with this and warm showers after-
wards abundance of Mushrooms should result towards
the end of August, through September, and well into
October, and in due season for years afterwards.

How a Cottager can grow his own Mushrooms.—
The artisan, or labourer, can grow his own Mushrooms.
To show it is possible for the ordinary working man to
become proficient in the work one may instance a man
well known by repute to the present writer. He was
a carpenter by trade, always having a fondness for
gardening. His health failed and he was advised to
follow an out-of-door occupation, and his fancy turned
in the way of growing Mushrooms for market. He

MUSHROOM GROWING 91

started in a small way by growing them on the same
principle as that adopted by market gardeners. At
first he attained to modest but encouraging success,
went on little by little until after a few years he became
one of the largest and best-known Mushroom growers
in the neighbourhood of London, supplying Covcnt
Garden with many tons of Mushrooms in the course
of a year, as well as having established a large and
lucrative business as a spawn manufacturer. This
illustration is given as showing that no special train-
ing is required to qualify for the work, and not with
the idea that the carpenter should forsake the bench
and turn Mushroom grower. The workman who may
decide to try his luck in this way should well study
the details given as to the treatment and preparation
of the manure, as on this operation hangs more than
on any other the success, or otherwise, of his labour.
He will find the out-of-door system on ridged beds
one of the best ways in which he can start, and this
he can practice in his small garden, and failing this in
his backyard. Another excellent position to make up
a bed is in a cellar, or any underground or unoccupied
room. The condition in any subterranean position
of this sort suits the requirements of the Mushroom
admirably. It is in the catacombs of Paris where most
of the city Mushrooms are grown. Failing any of
these conveniences a good way is to place manure in
any odd boxes there may be to spare, and place them
in any odd corners of rooms in the house, the cellar,
or the attic, or any other convenient space that can

92 POPULAR VEGETABLES

be spared. The boxes should be a foot deep and, after
being filled with manure and placed in position, should
be covered over with a bit of dry hay, and an old news-
paper nailed down over the box. If the time is spring
or summer the boxes will need watering with warm
water (luke-warm) at the end of a month, relaying the
covering. On examination again in about a fortnight's
time the Mushrooms should be making their appear-
ance regularly and will do so for six or seven weeks
or more. During the winter season in this rather
damp position very little watering will be required, and
none should be given unless the surface of the soil
should appear parched and dry. It must not be sup-
posed that there is any offensive smell from these
boxes ; they are perfectly sweet and without odour.

The boxes may be spawned and soiled over im-
mediately they are filled, as with a small body of manure
like this, there is no danger of overheating if the manure
has been properly prepared.

The Manufacture of Spawn. — This is now practi-
cally a lost art among private gardeners, Chatsworth
being the only private garden where the article is of
home manufacture. Better crops of Mushrooms have
never been grown anywhere than from the home-made
article, one of the reasons for this being that the spawn
was fresh every year, and not kept over from the
previous season.

The work of making the spawn is a very simple
matter, and once the details are understood, a handy
and careful labourer can manage the work splendidly.

MUSHROOM GROWING 93

Quantities will of course be decided by the amount of
spawn required, and the principle of making is the same
in large and small lots.

Take a barrow load of soft cow dung, the same of
horse droppings, and the same of mould or garden soil.
Mix the whole well together, and by watering bring
the material to a consistency of dough. Have ready
moulds made of any rough bits of wood, nine inches
long, six inches wide, and two inches deep. Place the
material on the potting bench or some other convenient
place, and commence to fill the moulds. This is done
by placing the mould on the bench, and filling it with
the stuff, ramming it in as hard as possible, and finish-
ing the brick off nicely level with the edge of the
mould. Have ready in the middle of an airy shed
a shelf placed in such a position that the air can play
round it from all points. On this place the mould
sideways up, not flat. You will require to have the
same number of moulds as the number of bricks you
intend making (once made they will last for years).

When the moulds are all filled and placed in the
shed to dry they will require no further attention for,
say, ten days or a fortnight, by which time they will
have attained such consistency and toughness as to be
in a condition to bear punching fine shallow holes in
each, one at each corner and one in the middle ready
to receive the spawn. Upon the quality of the spawn
will depend almost entirely the success of the operation.
Under proper conditions the vitality of spawn may be
preserved for a number of years, the length of time

94 POPULAR VEGETABLES

depending on the temperature and dryness of the
atmosphere in which it is kept. The mycelium
of the Mushroom is of so sensitive a nature that
once it is exposed to over moist or too warm an
atmosphere, it commences to grow and spread after
which its power for producing satisfactory crops is
all but destroyed. Spawn therefore to be satisfac-
tory should not be more than a year old, and be kept
in a dry storeroom, where the temperature in winter
ranges from 45° to 50° and in summer it should be
kept as cool as possible. To find out the quality
of the spawn, break up the brick into four or five
pieces, and if it is permeated with a network of the
most minute, threadlike veins, nearly of the colour of
flour, you may be satisfied that your spawn is all right,
if, on the contrary, these threadlike veins are swollen
and spreading more or less about, you may conclude
that fermentation has taken place at some time to the
detriment of the spawn. Sometimes only a part of
the brick may be affected, the other portion being all
right. In any case doubtful spawn must not be used
in impregnating the new bricks. Shallow holes having
been made in the bricks as advised, a lump of spawn
must now be placed in the holes about two inches
wide by one deep, well pressed in and sealed over with
some of the soft material left from forming the bricks.
As soon as this sealing material is sufficiently dry,
which will be in the course of three or four days, the
bricks should be turned out of the mould, and built
up on the top of one another, sideways and crossways,

PARSNIPS 95

leaving small spaces between for a small quantity of
air to permeate the whole heap. The heap may be
built up of any size according to the number of bricks
to be dealt with, but four feet square and about five
high is a convenient size. They should be stacked
in a fairly warm room, and covered over with a
quantity of littery straw or mats. This in the course
of a few days will generate more or less heat, and this,
of course, is the object in order to induce the spawn
to run and permeate the brick, which it will do in the
course of nine or ten days when the covering may be
taken ofF, the bricks allowed to dry and harden, when
they may be stored in proper quarters until wanted
for use.

A thermometer should be placed in the heap and
carefully watched, and the heat should range from
60° to 65°. The bricks must not be exposed to this
confined heat an hour longer than is necessary for the
filling of the bricks with mycelium. This can be
ascertained by breaking up a brick or two. Spawn
may be manufactured at any time of the year, but the
best time is September, when the mycelium naturally
spreads out of doors in our fields.

PARSNIPS.

There are very few varieties of Parsnips, and
what there are have long or tapering roots. We see
too frequently at exhibitions roots of abnormal length
and quite unfit for cooking. Sometimes the roots

96 POPULAR VEGETABLES

are three feet in length, showing how deep the soil
has been worked, but roots as long as this are generally
coarse and " watery ". Good, well-flavoured roots,
with a marrow-like flesh when cooked, should be of
medium size and length. Thus it is unwise to sow
seed on ground that has been recently well manured ;
indeed, if following some other well-manured crop then
are conditions far more favourable for the production
of good, edible roots. Because the Parsnip is hardy,
seed is sown as early as February and March, but the
wiser course is to hold over the sowing until the end
of April, as then growth is more continuous, and the
roots are smaller. The roots are so hardy that they
may be left in the ground all the winter, being lifted for
cooking as needed. To protect the crowns draw some
soil in ridge form over them in November, and to
enable this to be done lift and store every alternate
row in dry sand in a cool place for the winter, and
thus ensure an ample supply during severe weather.
The best varieties are the Hollow Crown, Tender
and True, a somewhat " coloured " selection from
this variety, and the Student, an old but excellent Pars-
nip. Sow seed thinly in shallow drills, drawn with a
hoe fourteen inches apart, and when the plants are well
up thin them out to six inches apart. The only after
attention necessary is to keep them clear by frequent
hoeing for the rest of the season. It is a common
practice, when the ground is naturally stiff, to make
holes two feet deep in rows, and fill them with sifted
soil, then sow three seeds on the top, thinning the plants

PEAS 97

to one only ; other roots may be treated in the same
way.

PEAS.

The Garden Pea is one of the most important and
popular of vegetables, and when well grown gives a
good return for labour. Few vegetables of late years
have been so greatly improved ; the newer acquisitions
are of better quality and more free than the older
types, and there has been a distinct advance in the
early section. One point often overlooked is that the
Pea, to make a success of it, must have a rich root
run. When starved the results are poor, and then
the variety is frequently blamed, whereas it is simply
the way it has been grown that is at fault. Another
evil is sowing too thickly in the drill ; it is impossible
for the plants to make sufficient roots to build up a
strong plant when crowded together, and the result is
that the effects of heat are quickly felt.

A deeply dug and rich soil will prove satisfactory,
and it may even be necessary in the case of early
Peas to sow thickly, as with the Tender Marrow
varieties sown early some of the seed may fail to
germinate. It is very easy to thin out judiciously
should good growth follow. Thinning is not practised
as much as is often essential. Mid-season and late crops
need more manure than the early ones, and in heavy
or clay land the upper soil should be well worked and
pulverised by the weather, so that at the sowing time
the seeds can germinate freely.

7

98 POPULAR VEGETABLES

The earliest Peas, either of those sown or planted
out, will be of dwarf growth, that is, will not exceed
three feet, often less, and for these the soil is specially
prepared, selecting a warm border for the sowing. A
border of this kind is essential for the first crop, and
a large mass of animal manure may be dispensed with.
The ground must, however, be in good condition, as
once the plant is in active growth there is only a short
time to mature the crop. In gardens where the soil
is poor, it is very easy to enrich it, and add, if
necessary, lime dressing or calcareous materials. It
will be seen therefore that the earlier sowings need a
lighter soil, but later ones do well on a well-manured,
deeply dug and strong loam. Many vegetable growers
prefer land that is trenched or double dug for the later
crops, and when the manure is freely given, and at the
time of digging, place it in layers between the two spits
in digging or trenching. The roots will thus have a
good root-hold at the time there is a greater demand
on the plant, that is, when the pods are in course of
formation.

In many gardens it pays to grow late Peas in
trenches in a similar way to Celery. Trenching
previously is not necessary, but is an excellent plan
in light soils on gravel, if the food in the bottom of
the trench is dug in previous to sowing the seed.
When growing in trenches, give plenty of space be-
tween the rows, and also in the row when the varieties
are of strong growth.

Forced Peas. — No book on vegetable culture

PEAS 99

would be complete without reference to plants grown
under glass from start to finish, or raised under glass
and then planted out. Few can devote the space to
growing Peas entirely, but a few remarks will be use-
ful. Frame culture is best, i.e., growing the Peas in
beds, although fair results follow pot culture when a
very early supply is desired. Sow the seeds in frames in
December, in rich soil in rows two feet apart, and eigh-
teen inches from the glass when the plant is of strong
growth of the Gradus, Daisy or Edwin Beckett type,
but eighteen inches will suffice between the rows if
such varieties as Chelsea Gem, Marvel and Sutton's
Seedling Marrowfat are selected, and even less space
between Harbinger, Sutton's Forcing and Green Gem.
For pots, the last-named half-dozen varieties are excel-
lent, and succeed well when sown in eight- or ten-inch
pots at the start. Fill the pots three parts with rich
soil, and make firm, and later on give a top dressing.
Avoid crowding in the pots, and thin the plants early.
On the other hand, excellent results follow sowing
the larger varieties in pots, and pinching out the points
of the plants when two feet high. In all cases, even
with the smaller growers, stakes should be used, for Peas
both in pits or pots do better when supported, as the
shoots soon twist and with the weight of the pods
break unless staked. Peas sown under glass should be
freely ventilated at all times in fine weather, and avoid
strong heat ; 50° to 60° should be the maximum in
cold weather, as the object from start to finish is to
grow the plants as sturdily as possible. Plants in pots

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may often be given space in vineries or peach houses,
but they must always be near the glass on shelves or
stages in the front portion of the house, otherwise
everything is labour in vain. It is useless to attempt
their culture under trees.

Planting out from Frames. — Another and more
profitable method is to start the plants under glass,
and then plant them out, and this plan was largely fol-
lowed in the gardens at Syon House, Brentford. Mr.
Wythes describes his practice as follows : " Seeds are
sown early in December, but in all cases fresh seed is
sown, that is, seed from plants grown in the current
year. The seed may be sown in three-inch or five-
inch pots — I prefer the larger size — with from eight
to a dozen seeds in each ; the soil in the pots is
firm and a good loam, so that at the planting out
the roots do not break away. The pots are placed
in a cold frame, kept quite close, and the glass
is covered in cold weather. When the frame is kept
close, the seeds start earlier, and the seedlings are
more regular in growth. The sashes are not opened
until the seedlings are well through the soil, then free
ventilation is afforded on all favourable occasions.
Frame culture is better than growing the plants in
houses, as under the former treatment the plants are
near the glass, and can be well hardened previous to
planting out ; indeed, I do not advise raising in heat,
as plant grows away freely at the start, and later on
receives a check from which it rarely recovers."

Varieties for Under Glass. — With regard to the

PEAS 1 01

varieties to sow, there is a splendid choice. The
best of the Marrowfats are available, and it is not
really necessary to grow the small early varieties, as
some of the second earlies or even other fine sorts
do well treated in this way. Any of those named above
for frame culture may be grown, or larger kinds such
as Daisy, Gradus, Stratagem, Thomas Laxton, Duke
of Albany, Eureka, Peerless Marrowfat, Edwin
Beckett, Main Crop and Early Giant. Any of the
strong-growing three-feet Marrowfat varieties will
give a full crop grown thus, providing there is good
culture. Coddling is a mistake. The object is to
obtain a strong plant to put out early in March on
a warm border, and making the ball of soil and
the roots firm with the hand at the time of planting.
There are other ways besides pot culture, such as
by sowing in pieces of fresh turf, cut thick, with the
grass side placed downwards, making a depression in
the turf, then sowing the seed and covering over with
fine earth. The turves are placed in the frames, and
when ready lifted carefully, and planted in deep drills,
with as little disturbance of the roots as possible.
This method saves the trouble incidental to pot
culture, but the latter is preferable, as it is found
that the plants grow away more freely, and can be
transferred from their growing quarters at any time,
if necessary. The plants raised thus do well in rows
three feet apart. When they have grown from two
feet to three feet stakes are given. Pinch out the
tops of the shoots as soon as the flowers begin to show.

102 POPULAR VEGETABLES

'The First Crop. — Doubtless the most important
outdoor crop where glass is not used is that known
as the " first early," as Peas are required as early as
possible. There has been a great advance of recent
years on the old varieties, such as the Small White
and Blue Round, these being superseded by those
double the size, both in pod and individual seed, and
they have also a little of the delicious Marrow flavour.
The newer varieties are quite as hardy as the older,
and enormously prolific. We mean Peas like Acme
and Bountiful, two of the very best Peas in existence
for first crop on sheltered borders. No Peas equal
Bountiful for sowing in heavy soil, this medium being
unsafe for the true Marrowfats. Although Bountiful
is a round-seeded variety, it is a distinct advance in this
section, and the most productive of all the early Peas.
To this variety may be added Chelsea Gem, Exonian,
Wm. Hurst, Daisy, Mayflower, Little Marvel, Har-
binger and May Queen. When the seed is sown in
February or early March, according to the season
and locality, the plants prove quite reliable. The
distance to sow will depend greatly on the height of
the plant. A twelve-inch variety will only require
half the space needful for one that grows two and a
half feet or three feet. Such varieties as Bountiful
are most satisfactory when the rows are three feet
apart although two feet may suffice, but the space
between may be used for a single row of Lettuce or
early Forcing Cauliflower, and there is no waste.
All may not have a warm border, and be compelled

PEAS 103

to grow in the open, then choose varieties of strong
constitution, of which the Daisy and Bountiful are
excellent types.

Second Crop. — In gardens where the soil is light,
the best of Marrowfat varieties may be grown, but in
gardens having a wet or clay soil the best crops are
secured from what may be called the main crop or
third section. Second crop Peas give a supply in June
and early July, and the seed is sown from March until
May at intervals of a fortnight or three weeks, accord-
ing to the demand, as the May sowing is greatly in-
fluenced by the weather, which in July is frequently
very hot and dry. The manure question is of the
utmost importance in growing the main crop of Peas,
and there should be no stint in light soils. Always, if
possible, prepare the land for this crop some months
in advance, and although the second lot may with
advantage follow Celery, if sown in soil that has
grown an exhaustive crop give ample food. There
are plenty of excellent varieties. Most of the three-
feet Peas mentioned above are suitable, and to these
may be added Veitch's Main Crop, Model, Telephone,
Duke of Albany, Criterion, Perfection, Defiance, Prize-
winner, Peerless Marrowfat, Eureka, Masterpiece,
Satisfaction and Centenary Marrowfat. An excellent
new variety is Edwin Beckett which is represented in
the illustration. This list could be greatly extended,
but is given to show the type of Peas. Give ample
room, both in the row and between the rows, between
five feet and six feet between the rows being none too

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much for the stronger growers. Thin out the seed-
lings early if the seeds are sown thickly.

Third Division. — In this division several of the best
kinds mentioned in the earlier or second section are
suitable if the soil is heavy or the position late. For
instance, in the northern part of the country, the last
half a dozen varieties named would do well, and much
the same routine is necessary as regards sowing, but
in some seasons the weather is not suitable. Always
sow early in June for a large supply in autumn, rather
than late in July. From May to the beginning of July
is the best time to sow the Main Crop varieties, and the
plants from June-sown seed in land prepared as advised
do not fail so often as when sown later. It must be
remembered, however, that in thin, light and gravelly
soils, and a parching summer, with little or no mois-
ture, even the most skilful culture fails to produce
proper results. Choose strong-growing varieties, those
that do not produce the crop all at once, that is, give
one supply and all is over. Any of the Ne Plus Ultra
type are the most suitable for the season named, and
though the plant is six feet high it crops splendidly
when given ample food in July and August, and even
much later in the north. Such varieties as Autocrat,
a grand Main Crop Pea, Alderman, Gladstone, Sharp's
Queen, British Queen, Continuity, Windsor Castle
Marrowfat, Exhibition Marrowfat, the Reading Giant
and Quite Content, are the best of Peas for the season
named, that is, to give a supply from July to September.

Late Peas. — Probably it is more difficult to grow

THE POTATO 105

late Peas in many gardens than any of the other three
sections described. In the south early Peas can be
obtained more readily than very late ones, but in the
northern parts of the country there is no great diffi-
culty in having good Peas until the time of frost, the
cooler weather and increased moisture favouring growth.
In the south many schemes must be adopted to secure
a crop as late as possible, and the dwarf early or
round Peas are frequently sown at the end of July on
a north border for late supplies. Even in this section
there are some splendid late varieties, such as Late
Queen, Latest of All and Gladstone, and to this number
should be added Carter's Michaelmas, one of the finest
of the late Peas. Many gardeners declare that no Pea
is superior to it for the latest crop. When the seed is
sown in June on an open border, a supply may be secured
well into October, indeed, this variety is often excellent
in northern gardens until November. Late Peas of the
tall kinds such as described should be grown in an open
position away from trees, and success depends upon the
soil and situation. In a good loamy soil deeply culti-
vated there are few difficulties to contend with. In
dry seasons the seed does not always germinate freely,
but when deep drills are drawn or the seed is sown
in trenches, the latter can be easily flooded to assist
germination.

THE POTATO.

The only vegetable we cannot dispense with on
our dinner tables all the year round, hence not only

io6 POPULAR VEGETABLES

the most favoured, but generally the most widely
grown, is the Potato. Of vegetable products Potatoes
rank next to Wheat, hence their great value in
national economy. We grow in Britain some of the
best varieties in the world, and probably obtain some
of the heaviest crops, and in spite of occasional disease
attacks, very seldom seriously harmful, can produce
all we need for our ordinary supply, being dependent
on external sources only for very early importations
during the early spring months. Ordinarily our
home stocks furnish all that is needed from the middle
of June till the end of February, and even then many
consumers prefer to eat the old tubers to having those
usually watery and immature ones which come in so
abundantly from the Canary and Channel Islands and
from France. Once young, home-grown Potatoes
are in, imported ones find no favour.

In the production of good Potatoes the most
important points are : first, suitable and well-prepared
soil ; second, sound seed tubers and good varieties ;
third, thin planting and proper summer culture ;
fourth, freedom from disease and careful storage.

Soils. — All are not suitable for Potatoes naturally,
although much may be done to make them so by
deep trenching or digging, liberal manuring for some
previous crops, plentiful dressings of lime, soot, wood
ashes and artificial manures, and any well-decayed vege-
table matter, especially tree leaves. All these substances
prove most helpful in converting poor soils into those
of great productiveness, when allied to deep culture.

THE POTATO 107

Where Peas or similar crops have been grown on
heavily manured soils one year, then dressed with these
mineral and vegetable materials as advised, the result
is seen in very fine, clean crops of tubers. The
ground should be deeply worked in the winter, and
laid up roughly to sweeten under the influence of
frost and rain. Then in the spring with the diverse
materials advised strewn over the surface and well
forked in, the planting of the tubers taking place as
the forking proceeds, excellent crops should result.
Planting should never be done too early, as nothing
is gained by putting carefully stored and naturally
sprouting tubers that thus have a good start into cold
soil. Much better is it to plant two or three weeks
later when the ground has become warmer, as then
growth is rapid and unchecked. When a piece of
ground dressed with manures is to be forked over
and planted, a small trench should be thrown out at
one end with a fork, then a strip of ground eighteen
inches in width forked up, and a line strained along
immediately behind the furrow left by the fork.
Chop the soil down with a spade five inches in depth,
close to the line, place the seed tubers in carefully at
equal distances apart, and fork some loose soil over
them. Then fork up another space of ground, move
the line forward, chop down a fresh furrow, and plant
so that all the breadth is in time dealt with. By so
doing the work, the ground is planted without being
trodden on. There are quicker but no better
methods.

108 POPULAR VEGETABLES

Seed tubers should receive attention as soon as a
crop is lifted if the intention is to use any of the crop
for seed the following year. The best plan is to pick
out from the crop, lifted after maturity, quite medium-
sized handsome clean tubers, such as weigh out about
three ounces each, tubers that are rather small for
table, but of the best description for seed. Place
them in single layers in trays or on shelves where there
is ample air, and keep in a cool place. An outhouse,
store or north room are suitable places. The more
light and air they receive the better, but frosts must
be excluded. A floor of soil will be better than one
of board, as so stored the seed tubers keep until plant-
ing time all their strength and vitality. They will in
the course of time produce strong, hard sprouts,
which should not be broken off, and if planting be
done late, so much the better, as the soil being then
warmer, the sprouts soon become rooted, and the
growth is quick and vigorous.

Where of necessity seed tubers have to be pur-
chased, then it is well to get them in early in the
winter, and store them as advised to preserve their
sprouts when made. If the seed tubers be received
in the spring, after having been badly stored in heaps
or pits, or in a dark, warm cellar, or in any place
which induced the formation of shoots prematurely,
so that these are blanched and have to be removed
prior to planting, then one may consider that the
tubers have greatly deteriorated, so much so as to pre-
vent a heavy crop. It is impossible to lay too much

THE POTATO 109

stress upon the necessity of good seed tubers for the
production of a satisfactory harvest.

Intervals between rows when planted must be de-
termined by the character of the variety and its season
of ripening. First early varieties that seldom remain
in the ground to mature fully may be planted in rows
two feet apart, and a foot apart in the rows. Mid-
season and medium height growers do well in rows
two and a half feet apart and fourteen inches apart
in the rows, late robust growers needing much more
space should be in rows three feet apart, and be fifteen
inches apart in the rows. As a rule insufficient space
is allotted to Potatoes that have to remain some time
in the ground. The leafage must have ample light
and air to enable it to perform its functions of manu-
facturing food for the tubers, and it is only when
space and light are thus furnished that really good
tubers are produced.

Change of Seed. — This is advantageous when the
change is from soil of one character to that of another.
Thus tubers grown on clay or marl or a stiff loam do
well for one or two years on sand, peat or chalk, and
vice versd) whilst those grown on any soil northwards
succeed if planted in the south. In purchasing tubers
from a seedsman it is well to indicate the nature of
the soil at home, and to ask for a stock that has been
grown on soil that is of a quite different character.
Generally speaking, tubers grown on a fairly stiff soil
are more robust than those grown on sand for several
successive seasons. Chalk soils furnish very firm clean

no POPULAR VEGETABLES

tubers, not always large but such as usually contain
the higher proportion of starch, and make excellent
seed.

Summer Culture. — The summer culture of Potatoes
is simple. As soon as the young tops are through the
soil use the hoe freely amongst them, and if white frost
be still prevalent, some fine soil should be drawn over
the tops to protect them for a few nights longer.
Growth, however, soon becomes too strong, so when
the tops are some nine inches in height, some of the
soil now well loosened by flat hoeings may be drawn
up close to the stems, but not to bury the leaves.
This places over the newly forming tubers a sufficient
covering of soil to exclude light and air from them,
and also furnishes the stems with some desirable
support. Henceforth it is needful to pull any weeds
that may appear to keep the breadth quite clean, and
when ample space is allowed between the rows, the
work of hoeing, moulding and cleaning can be accom-
plished more efficiently.

Early Potatoes. — First early varieties of compara-
tively dwarf growth can be grown in pits, boxes or
in frames in the soil beds, and thus forced compara-
tively early. For this purpose tubers, if they have
not naturally sprouted, should be induced to do so by
placing them close together on end in shallow boxes,
and then setting them in warmth and in light ; if
they are occasionally sprinkled with warm water shoots
soon appear. These should always be limited to one
or two at the most to each set. When the shoots are

THE POTATO in

an inch in length the tubers may be planted singly in
nine-inch pots, three inches deep in soil, that is, one
half turfy loam, the rest being leaf mould and old
hot-bed manure. If planted in boxes nine inches wide
inside, and ten inches deep, having bottom drainage,
use similar soil and plant nine inches apart. If in a
frame on warm manure or heated by hot-water pipes,
plant each way twelve inches apart, as the top growth
will be strong. Gentle forcing of this nature, for
only a moderate warmth is needful, may begin in
January and continue until the Potatoes can be dug
in cold frames or in warm outside borders. When
these tubers are well and firmly sprouted, plant six
inches deep at the end of February, using when plant-
ing plenty of leaf soil. The rows may be twenty
inches apart, and the plants at a distance of twelve
inches in the rows. It is well to erect over this crop
a light wooden frame twelve inches high, over which
mats can be cast, and on those place litter or fern
during frosty nights, but all such covering should be
removed during the daytime.

Mid-season and Late Varieties. — These may be
planted during April and May. It is often an ad-
vantage to plant the latest first, as the tops take longer
to come through the ground. They may be planted
six inches deep, whilst mid-season varieties should be
only five inches. It should be remembered that well-
sprouted tubers have fully three weeks' start over those
unsprouted when planted. Good roomy culture, soil
well sweetened and pulverised, sound robust seed, and

ii2 POPULAR VEGETABLES

good hardy varieties, all greatly help to prevent disease.
The Potato disease seldom inflicts much injury on
the Potato crops.

Good Varieties. — First Earlies, forcing or frames :
Early Ashleaf, Midlothian Early, Ringleader, May
Queen and Duke of York amongst the kidney
varieties, and Harbinger, Sharp's Victor and Sutton's
A.I. of the rounds, are the best. Good Second Early
and mid-season varieties are the kidney potatoes
Snowdrop, Early Puritan, Sir John Llewelyn, Sutton's
Favourite and British Queen ; and Russet Queen,
Maid of Coil, Dalmeny Acme and Herd Laddie of
the round section.

Late Varieties. — Kidney : The Factor, Ideal, Chan-
cellor, Up-to-Date, Highlander, Nobleman and Main-
Crop. Round : The Crofter, Sirdar, Windsor Castle,
Abundance, Duchess of Cornwall and Snowball. These
are all whites. A few good coloured are — Kidneys :
Queen of the Veldt, King Edward VII. (red) and
Edgecote (purple). Rounds : Reading Russet (red),
The Dean (purple) and Dalmeny (red).

RHUBARB.

Although an inferior vegetable, no garden can well
dispense with Rhubarb. The stem product, which si
the part consumed, is of the utmost service for making
pies, for stewing or preserving at a time when fruits
generally are scarce. ' Rhubarb has such a long season
that it is forced for sale early in January, and can be
had until the end of June if needed. Rhubarb re-

RHUBARB 113

quires a good holding soil, but where it is naturally
light, and the sub-soil gravelly or sandy, it is a good
plan, in preparing the ground, to throw out the
top spit of twelve inches deep from a trench three
feet wide, to add to the bottom soil a heavy dressing of
half-decayed manure, which should be forked in and
mixed with that, and to re-fill the trench, adding more
manure with the top soil, then putting in roots, so that
the crowns are level with the surface, four feet apart in
the row. So treated the roots quickly become strong,
also the leafage and stems, and will in a year or two
produce an abundance of fine stems through the season.
Where the soil is naturally good and loamy below the
top spit, although it is well to break it up deeply and
to add manure, a less heavy dressing suffices. It is a
good rule to plant Rhubarb roots either in one corner
of a garden or in one or more rows across a garden
quarter, or if on an allotment in the same way, as, being
of a permanent nature, the general cropping of the
ground is little interfered with. Rhubarb is a gross
growing plant, needing liberal feeding with ordinary
manure, with nitrate of soda or with liquid manure.

Good varieties for forcing are Hawke's Champagne,
Sutton's Rhubarb, Daws' Champion and Victoria. All
these are equally good for planting to pull from in the
open ground, indeed, none can be better. With regard
to the great value of Rhubarb for forcing, it is import-
ant that the best varieties for this purpose be also grown
liberally outdoors, as it is only in this way the stock of
roots for forcing can be maintained. To gain that end

8

n4 POPULAR VEGETABLES

the proper course is to plant small roots every year,
and thus maintain a constant succession. In that way
in the fourth year the roots are large, and full of strong
crowns. If they are lifted and divided so that to
each crown a piece of fleshy root is attached, the work
of propagation is made easy and certain. All the other
roots may be lifted a few at a time, and if placed in
any dark cupboard, cellar or forcing house, with soil
about the roots, and watered, growth follows quickly
if there is gentle heat to promote it. If no heat
be given growth is necessarily slower, but with a
good quantity of strong roots the produce will give
frequent pullings until stems are available outdoors.
Roots of the next size left in the ground will be greatly
helped by placing over them casks or tubs, without top
or bottom, but with a loose board placed over each top.
Coat the tubs round with long manure or litter or
leaves to exclude light and air, and to generate a little
warmth. Growth in that way can be excited fully a
month ahead of the uncovered crowns. But these come
on in due course, and thus the Rhubarb season is greatly
prolonged. Very often the second or autumn stems
furnish excellent material for wine making.

The Rhubarb plants may be raised from seed, but
the varieties resulting are seldom satisfactory.

SEAKALE.

This is one of the most popular of vegetables on
account of its value in winter, as there is no difficulty

SEAKALE 115

in having a supply from November until May when
there is, unfortunately, a very restricted choice of other
things. Seakale is best raised from cuttings, not from
seed, unless a quantity of plants is required. There
are very few varieties, the Ordinary Pink tipped, and
the newer Ivory White being the best. Of late
years others have been introduced, but their merits
are not yet thoroughly known.

Forcing. — Seakale is now forced so largely that roots
are specially prepared for the purpose. The old method
was to force the same roots year after year, large pots
being used with a loose lid or cover to allow of easy
cutting of the Kale. The rows were four to six feet
apart, with a distance of about three feet from plant
to plant. Frequently, when new plantations were made
the seedlings were sown the previous year, and then
lifted and planted in threes or fives to form a clump,
the soil being deeply dug and well manured. Roots
grown thus lasted many years. The plants in October
or November or later were covered over with the pots,
a covering of fine ashes placed over the crowns first,
and then large quantities of manure or fresh leaves and
hot manure, some four feet in depth. Of course, the
Kale was ready according to the warmth or quantity
of manure. Seakale grown in this way, if not steamed
too much, was of excellent quality, the only fault being
that if the heat was too great or too sudden the growth
damped ofF.

Forcing Indoors. — The modern way of forcing is to
place roots in fine soil in a dark warm place. Often

n6 POPULAR VEGETABLES

a Mushroom house answers well, but it must be dark
as the growth soon loses its whiteness. A temperature
of 55° to 60° will grow good material, and, to get a first
supply earlier than Christmas, place the roots in a
bottom heat of 80° to 90° and when growth begins
give ample supplies of tepid water and daily dampings
overhead. To maintain a supply place roots in the
house every three weeks in the quantities desired. As
the season advances less warmth will be needed, the
plants starting freely. To grow material for this pur-
pose save the thick thong-like roots, which should be
cut into lengths of from four to six inches. Make
a straight cut at the crown or top, and a slanting one
at the bottom. Tie these root cuttings in small bundles,
and plunge in loose soil in frames ; they will start
into growth by March, and may then be planted in
well-enriched soil, two feet apart between the rows with
half this distance between the plants. Keep them free
from weeds and apply a good fertiliser or salt and soot
in showery weather. Good plants can be got in one
year, but the results are better from two years' growth,
and unless space is plentiful and labour abundant, it
is wiser to purchase roots specially grown for forcing.
Roots also force well in cellars or in boxes or under the
stages of houses ; but there must be darkness with only
sufficient moisture to promote growth. Produce can
also be obtained by placing roots in large pots in leaf
soil just level with the crowns, and then cover with
another empty pot, indeed, the forcing is most simple,
and anything that will promote growth will suffice.

SEAKALE 117

Large growers adopt quite a different system, but
this is to get quantities of Seakale at one time. Wide
deep trenches are cleared out, and the roots placed in
the soil rather close together, many hundreds being in
one trench. To get quick results hot manure is some-
times placed under the roots, but this is not a common
practice ; the usual way is after the roots are placed
in position to put framework over them, then mats,
and over all large heaps of fresh manure, not only on
the top but round the sides. No moisture is given.
The Seakale soon starts into growth, and large quanti-
ties are cut at one time.

Late Seakale. — This is the simplest phase of Seakale
culture ; the plants are not forced but only retarded,
as the desire should be to get as late a growth as pos-
sible. Grow them in rows three feet apart with half
that distance between plants in the row. Young plants
are preferable, namely, not more than three years old,
when they are cleared away, as it is advisable to make
a new quarter yearly. Seakale may be raised from
seed or cuttings. To plant new quarters the land
should be trenched with a liberal quantity of manure,
and the soil should be loamy. Seakale likes a good
firm soil. In February cover the crowns with fine
ashes to keep away slugs, snails and worms. Then
bank up the crowns quite two feet high, and as
wide as possible, as unless there is plenty of soil over
the roots the growths soon find their way out at the
sides and turn green, when they are of little use ;
indeed, in some soils three feet is insufficient. Kale

n8 POPULAR VEGETABLES

grown thus is more delicately flavoured than forced
produce, and it should be cut daily when the points
push through the soil. Boards may be used for
covering, or pots, but remember to exclude light
entirely, as the plant soon grows at this season. A
supply may be had from the open ground from April
to the end of May. It is useless to cover after growth
is active ; February is quite late enough, as in mild
seasons the growth is early. If boards are used by the
side of the rows for covering, they should be twelve
inches deep, and laid on edge just outside the plants.
If pots or pans are used they should be deep enough
to allow of a free growth, as the Kale from the open
is often as strong again as when forced.

Another way of getting late Seakale is little known.
All have not the ground to grow late Seakale, but re-
tarded roots can be bought, that is, roots that have been
kept in an ice store. These brought out in sufficient
quantities, and placed in a warm house, may be had
ready for the table in less than three weeks. These
crowns force easily, very little warmth is needed, and
the season is greatly prolonged, but it is not wise to
grow the roots a second time. Any that have been
lifted and forced do not pay : prepared roots are not
costly.

SPINACH.

Spinach is not so popular as many vegetables.
At certain seasons of the year it grows like a weed,
but at others it is a failure, even with the best

SPINACH 119

management, especially in hot weather when the soil
is light or gravelly. Again, in the winter and early
spring there is a short supply at times, frost soon
injuring the leaves. To get good results well-
manured land deeply dug will be best for what is
termed the standing crop, that is, for the August sown
seed to give a winter and early spring supply. For
many years no one would think of sowing any other
variety than the prickly Spinach for a standing crop,
but we have several very fine varieties, one of the
most famous being the new Carter Spinach, a large-
leaved variety, very hardy and good at all seasons.
Another good Spinach is Round Victoria, which is far
better than the ordinary round summer Spinach, and
very good for winter and early spring supplies, while
it does not run to seed so quickly as the old varieties.
The ground for autumn -sown Spinach should be
deeply cultivated, and ample supplies of lime, soot
and wood ashes incorporated with it, if there is the
least difficulty in culture. One sometimes reads that it
is useless to attempt Spinach culture in winter, owing
to the bad attacks of wire-worm, but this pest is
quickly destroyed by dressings of gas lime given some
months in advance of sowing the seed. Spinach is
generally sown too thickly. The wise gardener thins
early and freely, leaving the plants from six to nine
inches, that is when they are to stand for any length
of time, with a distance of eighteen inches between
the rows. Two sowings are advisable at times in
genial weather. Spinach sown in July or August,

120 POPULAR VEGETABLES

according to the locality, makes rank growth, but by
sowing thinly a second time in September a splendid
return is the result in spring, as it will last well till
the spring sown proper turns in. The latter need not
be thinned, as thinning out will be accomplished by
the cutting for use.

The most important supply is that from May
until the autumn. Give ample food, a well-drained
soil, and for a very early supply a few rows on a
warm, south border, sown in February or early in
March will give plenty of produce in May. Another
sowing may be made on an open border to form a
succession. The earliest seed will give good results
if sown between rows of dwarf Peas ; a single row will
be best, and as the crop is soon cleared it does not
interfere with the Pea crop. When the winter crop
has been killed, seed may be sown under glass in small
pots and planted out between rows of Peas as advised.
By this plan quite a fortnight's time is saved, an
important matter where there is a large demand.
Spinach may, if necessary, be forced or grown in
frames from January-sown seed. It will be ready in
two months, but must be given plenty of air, as
growth gets strong. To keep up a supply from May
to October, sow every three weeks in sufficient
quantities. Sow the seed thinly to obtain strong
growth, and after May sow on a cool quarter, such as
a north border, damping the plants overhead every
evening after hot sunshine. Even then in the south
it may fail, but in the southern counties, grow the

THE TOMATO 121

New Zealand variety for summer supplies. This
Spinach, though very tender, will give a full crop if
the seed is sown in frames in April in small pots, and
the seedlings planted out in rich soil three feet apart.
Always give plenty of water, as it makes a rapid
growth, and will continue to grow until cut down by
frost. It may be sown in the open in May, but will
not be ready until July. The Spinach Beet is also a
fair substitute, but the leaves are not equal to the
ordinary varieties. This sown in March will provide
an autumn and winter supply. It is a long-rooting
variety, and seed should be sown eighteen inches apart
in the row, and nine inches from each other.

THE TOMATO.

Of all fruit-producing vegetables so called, Toma-
toes are the most popular, and from one source or
another are available all the year round. The supply,
however, of home-grown produce, even with the aid of
warm glasshouses, is restricted, whilst outdoor Tomatoes
have a comparatively short season. Hence, to all who
have no glasshouses or frames the Tomato is of less
importance than many other vegetables. By far the
greater number of home growers adopt outdoor
culture, for even in cottage gardens and allotments a
few plants are generally grown, and a handsome return
in fruit realised.

Sowing Seeds. — Even outdoor culture is not pos-
sibk without some artificial help in raising young

122 POPULAR VEGETABLES

plants, as seedlings raised from an outdoor sowing in
May would not have time to ripen a crop before the
frosts. Plants may be raised artificially with simple
appliances. Twenty seeds for example may be sown
in a five-inch pot filled with good soil, then placed
in a seven-inch pot, and stood inside a south window.
Cover the pot with a piece of glass to assist germina-
tion or two or three or more such pots, according to
requirements, may be sown with seed, then stood in a
box six inches deep, capable of holding several pots,
and placed outdoors in a warm sheltered place, and
covered with glass with a sack over it at night, as a
precaution against frost. Hundreds of plants could
be raised slowly but surely, so as to secure stout, sturdy
plants to put out of doors at the end of May. Where
there is a frame or greenhouse, raising from seed is
less troublesome. Seed should be sown at the end of
March or early in April. The seedlings simply need,
when three inches in height, shifting singly into three-
inch pots, using good light soil, and in these they can
remain until strong enough to plant outdoors.

Plants Outdoors. — Ordinarily the best outside posi-
tion is against a warm wall or wooden fence, as the
plants receive shelter and full sunshine. There they
may be planted in quite ordinary garden soil, twelve
inches apart, being loosely nailed by the main stem to
the wall or fence, all side shoots being kept severely
pinched out. Where there is no southerly exposure,
a warm or fairly sheltered position in the garden should
be selected, the ground deeply dug and moderately

THE TOMATO 123

manured in the winter, and allowed to settle down.
Then at the end of May or early in June, put the plants
out in rows two and a half feet apart, and eighteen
inches apart in the rows. Fix a stout stake four feet
in length at once to each plant ; it must stand a little
more than three feet out of the ground, and the stem
tied as growth proceeds. With all plants the pinching
out of side shoots must be rigidly enforced. Very
little water is needed in dry weather until some fruits
are set and swelling, and when they are colouring heavy
watering should be avoided. It is better to place a
mulch of long manure about the plants to check as
much as possible too much evaporation. It is some-
times wise with all Tomato plants to thin out the
weaker or more irregular fruits on the clusters to get
larger size into those that remain. Late fully grown
fruits will ripen if put on a warm shelf, and green
fruits make excellent preserve or pickle.

Where wood or wire trellises are fixed across a
garden quarter Tomato plants put out twelve inches
apart against them on the sunny side are easily trained,
but unless there is some close backing, such as mat,
straw frames or corrugated iron plates, the plants do
not bear earlier than those tied to stakes. Good

Outdoor Varieties are, for the open air, Earliest
of All and Magnum Bonum, of the corrugated form,
Conference, Sunrise and Duke of York (smooth round
fruit), Glory of Italy (plum-shaped with full clusters),
and the richly flavoured Golden Nugget, a small-fruited
and excellent variety for dessert.

i24 POPULAR VEGETABLES

tomatoes in Greenhouse. — Where Tomatoes can be
grown in a greenhouse, and there is a little artificial
heat, seed may be sown in pots as early as the end of
February, the seedlings being treated as before des-
cribed, and either planted on ridges of soil or put into
boxes or troughs or placed singly into nine-inch or ten-
inch pots early in May, and thus secure a good start ;
but much depends on the facilities at disposal. When
plants are in pots they can be placed almost together
in a row on one or both sides of the greenhouse, and
trained up to wires or long rods fixed for the purpose
some ten inches under the glass roof. Such plants
may continue to grow and fruit as long as the house
can be spared. When the flowers set well and the
plants are from time to time fed with weak liquid
manure or a little artificial manure they will carry
great crops. When the side shoots are kept hard
pinched out, the plants are not unduly crowded.
Tomatoes under glass need plenty of air, and when in
flower an occasional gentle tapping of the stems helps
to diffuse the pollen, and assists fertilisation. Good
varieties for indoors are Sunrise, Duke of York,
Winter Beauty and Frogmore Selected.

Forcing Tomatoes in winter is always very difficult
and unsatisfactory. Few fruits need more sunshine to
mature fully than the Tomato, and that, unfortunately,
no artificial treatment can supply in the winter. To
have fruits late in the year, it is a good plan to raise
plants from a sowing made in June, and to grow them
on singly. When fifteen inches in height, shift them

VEGETABLE MARROWS 125

into large pots. These should be encouraged by
ample exposure to light and air to set fruit freely,
and begin to form it by the end of September. Then
if the plants be stood on a shelf close under the roof
of a warm house, and trained up to sloping stakes or
wires there should be a crop up to Christmas. A sow-
ing of seed made at the end of January should give
plants to ripen fruit in warmth at the end of April or
early in May, as by that time there is ample sunlight.
Earlier ripened fruits are poor.

VEGETABLE MARROWS.

Marrows belong to the same family as Gourds and
Pumpkins. Although the edible Gourd is not much
grown for consumption, it is most useful for soups and
stews in winter, and may also be cooked in various ways
as a vegetable. The Vegetable Marrow is the more
popular, but even this occasionally receives scant
justice. Huge Marrows with the seed almost matured
are frequently seen, but the flesh is always dry and
flavourless, whereas the Marrow cooked whole in
a small green state, or cut into two and the soft or
pithy portion removed, and the space filled in with
minced meat, and the two halves tied together and
cooked, makes a delicious vegetable, and that is only
one of many ways of serving them. When the
Marrow is grown on a huge rubbish heap, or a mass
of decayed manure, an enormous plant is produced
with few fruits. The reason is that the roots have

126 POPULAR VEGETABLES

too great a run, and the flowers refuse to set. It is
far better to follow the plan of the market grower,
and plant in rows in a well-manured soil. Grown
thus the growth is not so wild, and more fruitful.
But market fruits are, as a rule, too coarse and large ;
although, unfortunately, for the purposes of sale, size
may be essential, it is not necessary in private gardens.
It must also be remembered that no loss results from
cutting the fruits when small, as three or more are
produced in the place of one of big dimensions. An-
other point is that the small varieties of Marrows are
not sufficiently grown, for the reason that they are
more prolific and of better flavour. An excellent
Marrow is the new Perfection, which is exactly the
size for the table. Other good varieties are Pen-y-
Byd and the Custard Marrows, which are far
better than the old large forms which find so much
favour.

Marrows in Frames. — The Marrow needs pro-
tection at the start, but the best practice is to grow
the early lot in frames, as then a supply is obtained
a month earlier, and at a season when they are appre-
ciated. With such varieties as Perfection and Pen-y-
Byd frame culture is simplified, as they produce fruits
little larger than a cricket ball, and in great abund-
ance if the plants are not given too much heat ; they
make a short-jointed growth, and are grown in ordin-
ary frames with a little bottom heat to promote a
reasonably quick growth. Seed sown in February
will result in seedlings ready to plant out at the end

VEGETABLE MARROWS 127

of March, and early in May Marrows may be obtained
at a season when choice vegetables are not plentiful.

Marrows succeed in cold frames with manure
as the heating agency or in frames heated with hot
water in moderation. Ample ventilation is needful
in favourable weather, with a temperature of 60° at
night, indeed 5° less will suffice at the start, and 10°
higher by day. Grow them in good loam, and if
they are inclined to run too much to leaf, take out
the points of the shoots. Plants grown thus do not
set their flowers freely if kept too close, so that ample
ventilation must be given, with liberal supplies of
liquid manure, damping the plants overhead early in
the afternoon and when the frames are closed. An-
other point in frame culture is to see that there is
only a mild bottom heat. Large masses of hot
manure give out a too violent heat, so that it is better
to use a good proportion of fresh leaves or manure
fermented before use.

Marrows in the Open. — Marrows are easily grown
out-of-doors, but even in this case timely shelter at the
start is well repaid. As the seed is very fleshy warmth
is necessary to germination, so that too much mois-
ture must not be given until growth is pushing freely
through the soil. The seed is best sown in pots, two
or three seeds in each five-inch pot, or one in a smaller
size. Place them in a warm house, or if a glass
structure is not available plunge the pots in the
warm manure in frames.

Wherever raised the plant must be above the soil

128 POPULAR VEGETABLES

and near the glass, the old system of sowing a number
of seeds in a pan or pot and, when large enough, pot-
ting up the seedlings singly not being advisable. The
seedlings receive a check when separated, and may col-
lapse unless there is a brisk bottom heat to help the
new root growth. It will be early enough to sow seeds
in April for planting out in May, and even then one
cannot often plant before the third week, unless hand-
glasses or a covering of some kind can be given, as the
Marrow is very tender. Excellent results come from
planting in frames which have had early Potatoes or
Carrots. The shelter of the frames for a few weeks is
exactly the thing needed, and once a good start has
been made the frames are no longer required.

Another way is to place a large body of leaves, or,
better still, leaves and manure together, in mid-winter,
and plant on the surface, on which has been placed from
nine to twelve inches of good loam for the roots. The
leaves long retain the warmth, and if no glass covering
is available anything may be used at night or on cold
days to break the cold winds. Stakes and mats or even
boxes or boards may be used as an early protection.

Late Marrows. — Marrows raised for a later supply
will need less attention. Sow the seed in May, and
plant out in June. Growth will be freely made if ample
moisture is given. When a quantity of Marrows is
desired dig out a trench a few feet wide, and eighteen
inches deep, and fill in with hot manure, placing over
this some of the soil taken out of the trench, and then
sow the seeds, thinning to the strongest plants when

ONIONS 129

large enough. If the seeds are sown in groups or patches
of two feet or more, and then covered with hand-glasses
or, failing these, inverted flower-pots, the seed quickly
germinates : the pots may be used at night for a while
as a protective covering.

ONIONS.

Preparation of the ground is one of the first things
that claim attention in growing Onions. It should be
deeply trenched in the autumn, and have a liberal
supply of well-decayed farmyard manure incorporated.
It is a good plan to give a dusting of soot and bone-
meal between the layers, and apply the same dressing
to the surface, which should be left as rough as pos-
sible, so that it may be crumbled down by the influ-
ence of the weather. Before planting out the crop,
level the bed and mark out the alleys ; then work
the surface well with a fork, and rake it down until
perfectly fine.

To obtain large bulbs it is necessary to make a
start early in the year by sowing in boxes under glass
at once, as this vegetable requires a long period of
growth to bring it to perfection. A suitable compost
consists of two parts fibrous loam, one part leaf-mould,
and one part old mushroom-bed material, with a
good sprinkling of fine charcoal. The whole should
be thoroughly incorporated and passed through a

9

1 3o POPULAR VEGETABLES

quarter-inch mesh sieve. Boxes two feet long, one
foot wide and four and a half inches deep will be
found suitable. Cover the seeds about half an inch
deep, and then place the boxes in a greenhouse where
a moist atmosphere and a temperature of from 55° to
60° can be maintained. As soon as the seedlings are
large enough to handle, prick them off into rather
deeper boxes, placing them three inches apart each way,
and use the compost recommended above. When
the young plants have started into growth, place the
boxes in a rather cooler house, giving them a position
near the glass, and syringe twice on bright days.
About the middle of March place them in a cold
frame, and commence to harden off early in April by
removing the lights on all favourable occasions.

The third week in April is an ideal time to plant
out the crop. Use a trowel for planting, and allow
a distance of eighteen inches between the rows and
fifteen inches between the plants. Dust over with
soot occasionally. This will help to keep down the
attack of the Onion fly, which often does much damage
during the spring ; but it will be noticed that Onions
sown in boxes and transplanted are not so liable to
this pest as those sown in the open ground. When
the plants have become well established, a dressing
with some approved fertiliser should be applied about
once in ten days.

Where sowing in the open must be adopted, the
end of February till about the third week in March

HOW RUNNER BEANS ARE STAKED IN ALDENHAM
HOUSE GARDENS.

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ONIONS 131

is a good period, the date varying somewhat according
to the locality and climatic conditions. The surface
of the bed must be raked down fine, and then drills
two inches deep and twelve inches to fifteen inches
apart are drawn, the seeds being scattered thinly in
these and finally covered with the fine soil. When
this has been done lightly rake the surface level, and
then either tread the soil firm or else pass a light
roller over the bed, especially where the soil is of a
sandy character, as the young seedlings delight in a
firm rooting medium. As soon as the young plants
are large enough thinning must be resorted to, and it
is well to do this gradually, going over the bed at
intervals of about nine days. By so doing there is
less danger of over-thinning, which sometimes hap-
pens when disease takes the plants in their partially
developed stage. Good and useful bulbs are frequently
obtained from outdoor sowings, and practically all
cottagers grow their Onions in this way.

Do not allow the crop to suffer from drought during
hot weather, but give copious waterings with liquid
manure whenever required. Keep the bed free from
weeds, and make frequent use of the hoe. When
the bulbs have nearly finished swelling, the most for-
ward ones should be slightly raised with a fork to
prevent their splitting ; also bend over the tops, as
this will assist them to ripen. Choose a bright day
for harvesting the crop, and be careful not to bruise
any, or their keeping qualities will be considerably

1 32 POPULAR VEGETABLES

diminished. By these means very fine bulbs may be
grown, and if well ripened and stored they will keep
satisfactorily. For exhibition purposes a strain of
Selected Ailsa Craig cannot be beaten.

CHAPTER III.

THE HERB GARDEN.

THE term " Herb " is a common one in gardens, and
is applied to certain plants, mostly hardy, grown for
either flavouring or medicinal purposes. The flavour-
ing and most widely grown section contains fewer
herbs than the group grown medicinally. Formerly
the medicinal herbs were held in high esteem, but the
medical pharmacopoeia has undergone vast changes,
with the result that herbs are not accounted of so
much importance. Still, in many gardens it is the
rule to grow a few in case they are asked for. Herbs
are both of annual and perennial character, all giving
seed in their seasons, and all easily raised from seed,
cuttings or division. Herbs are generally grown in
a small separate garden or plot or " Herb Garden ".
Exception is generally made to Parsley which is in great
demand for table decoration as well as for flavouring,
and for that reason a good quantity of it is needed
all the year round. As it is usually treated as an
annual, seed being sown yearly, and sometimes twice
yearly, it is necessary to give to it more space than is
provided by an ordinary herb garden.

Flavouring Herbs. — The chief are Parsley, Mint,
133

134 THE HERB GARDEN

Common and Lemon Thyme, Sage, Marjoram, summer
and winter Savory, Chervil, Tarragon and Fennel.

Parsley. — This is usually raised from seed in
shallow drills, either beside garden walks or on a border,
the drills being twelve inches apart. The seed should
be sown thinly in rows, and the plants thinned out
to six inches apart when strong enough. The usual
seasons are, March for summer and autumn use, and
early in August for a winter supply. From this latter
sowing transfer some of the plants into a frame six
inches apart, or shallow boxes, so as to enable the plants
to be housed during hard weather, and thus furnish leaf-
age for garnishing. Parsley well repays for good soil,
deep working and ample thinning. Excellent varieties
are the Dwarf Garnishing and the Treble Curled.

Mint is a herbaceous perennial, and can be pro-
pagated by seed, by using the young tops as cuttings,
and by lifting, dividing and replanting the white, fleshy,
running roots. Solid clumps cut out from an old bed
with a spade, and planted fifteen inches apart in fresh
soil soon become thick. The best time for inserting
tops as cuttings is in March or April, when the shoots
are four inches high. The common garden variety is
the Green or Spear Mint, as that gives a pleasant yet
not strong flavour. In planting Mint in fresh soil,
take great care to have the soil free from weeds, as
the bed may remain in one position for many years.
After the stems have been cut in the autumn, and
hung up to dry for winter use, a dressing of short
manure should be given.

THYMES— SAVORY 135

'Thymes. — Both Common and Lemon are dwarf,
compact and evergreen. They can be increased by
division early in the spring, replanting them at once,
or the young points of shoots will soon root if in-
serted in pots filled with sandy soil, and placed in
gentle warmth in a frame. Thymes can also be raised
from seed.

Sage is an evergreen shrub of the Salvia family,
and can be increased by cuttings in the late summer,
or by breaking off branches and planting them in
fresh ground, one half their depth. The plants are
quite hardy, and if left alone will grow very broad in
a few years. It is best, however, to plant some afresh
every three years at least.

Marjoram. — There are two Marjorams — summer,
treated as an annual, and raised from seed sown in
shallow drills twelve inches apart in March, and the
winter one, which is a perennial. The winter Mar-
joram can be increased by dibbling in slips into the
open ground, by rooting tops as cuttings under a hand-
light in the summer, and by lifting, dividing and re-
planting the roots in winter. It is usual to cut the
stems off in the autumn, dry them, and store in paper
bags for winter use.

Savory. — There are two forms of Savory also, an-
nual and perennial. The former is easily raised from
seed sown in shallow drills a foot apart in April, the
seedlings being well thinned. The perennial can also
be raised from seed, the young Savory plants being,
when strong, dibbled out where they are to grow.

136 THE HERB GARDEN

These should be fully twelve inches apart. This
form can also be propagated by slips or cuttings.
Plants will grow to a good size, therefore need ample
room.

Chervil is a quick-growing annual. Seed should
be sown in shallow drills in March, and each month
for succession until August, when a sowing to stand
the winter and produce seed the following year may
be made. Very small sowings suffice.

'Tarragon is a perennial, and has rather warm leaf-
age ; this is often used with cold salading to correct
its coolness. Plants can be obtained by parting the
roots in winter, and replanting into fresh, good soil.
Leaves gathered in the summer and dried are very
useful in winter. It is not much in request.

Fennel. — Fennel is a tall handsome foliage plant
of which one or two suffice for most gardens. It can
be raised from seed or by lifting and replanting of
sets, or by dividing roots and replanting them. The
flowers should be pinched out when seen. Fennel
leafage is frequently used to flavour fish.

It may be mentioned that all these herbs do well
in ordinary garden soil. They need to be kept clean,
and an occasional top dressing or mulch in the winter
of short manure is helpful.

Medicinal Herbs. — These consist of Balm, Cha-
momile, Rue, Wormwood, Pennyroyal, Peppermint,
Tansy, Hyssop, and several others now rarely met
with in gardens. Those mentioned are chiefly peren-
nial, can be increased by divisions, by cuttings or

MEDICINAL HERBS 137

slips, and a few from seed. Practically, they need
treatment similar to that advised for perennial flavour-
ing herbs. Lavender is grown as a perfuming herb,
and is easily increased by dividing old plants and
replanting them.

CHAPTER IV.

VEGETABLES NEGLECTED IN ENGLISH GARDENS.
CARDOON.

THIS is not a vegetable for a small garden, as it
needs considerable space, and does not pay unless as
great a choice of vegetables as possible is desired in
the household. It is closely allied to the Globe Arti-
choke, and is a great favourite on the Continent, where
it is properly cooked. The seed is best sown in small
pots early in the spring, in warm frames, and if three
or four seeds are sown, the plants when large enough
should be thinned to the strongest one, hardened off,
and planted out in trenches in May or June, in the
same way as for Celery, but they must have more room,
not less than two feet between each tuft, and at least
four feet between the trenches to allow for moulding
up. Other methods are quite as good, but the produce
is not so large, although sufficiently so for most pur-
poses. One way is to prepare trenches early in May,
and sow the seed in them at eighteen inches apart in
the row, placing the seed in patches at the distance
named, and thinning to the strongest. The Cardoon
requires a good diet, and must have abundant supplies

138

CARDOON 139

of moisture ; indeed, Mr. Wythes writes : " The best
Cardoons I ever grew were the result of flooding the
trenches with liquid manure weekly ". If the roots
suffer from drought the plants frequently run to seed,
and are worthless. In gardens where labour is none
too plentiful, and water scarce, it is a mistake to grow
Cardoons. Where Cardoons are so much esteemed
that a supply is desired in winter, then sow seed in
June. The plants will not be large, but the flavour
will be excellent. It may also be mentioned that there
is no need to have enormous growths ; growths of five
feet or more are quite needless. Cultural details are
simple once the planting is accomplished. Give plenty
of manure during growth, and keep the soil about
them free from weeds.

There are several varieties, although only a few
are enumerated in our home catalogues, but on the
Continent about a dozen are mentioned. Whatever
the variety, the aim of the cultivator must be to get
solid stem growth which is the portion cooked, and
varieties differ in this important point. There is the
large Spanish, which is less spineless than some others,
but runs badly to seed. The large Solid Tours is
better ; it comes from Tours, and is an excellent
Cardoon, so also is the Marseilles, and the Puvis, a
variety much esteemed in France.

As the plant attains a good size, draw the leaves
together when they are quite dry, and use haybands to
blanch the stems. The leaves must be brought into an
upright position, the bands being placed at the base,

1 40 VEGETABLES NEGLECTED

and go on covering until the whole is bound round.
Then bank the bands up with soil from the trench, so
that air and moisture are excluded. The growths are
ready for use when well blanched. Other methods of
blanching are sometimes followed, but the best way is
described.

CELERIAC.

This is well worth a place in all kitchen gardens,
and few winter vegetables are more delicious. Celeriac
reminds one of Celery in flavour, but forms a bulbous
root, which does not require moulding up, and is
hardier, whilst it is a great favourite on the Continent.
The roots of Celeriac may be in season for six months,
as if lifted in October, and stored in a cool place in
sand or ashes, they keep sound for a long time. The
seed should be sown as advised in the case of Celery,
in heat in March, and the seedlings pricked off in
boxes, or they may be transferred direct from the
frames into their permanent quarters. The plants
should be put out on the level in rows two feet apart
and eighteen inches from each other in well enriched
soil, somewhat light for preference, and in dry weather
give liquid manure and plenty of water. At the time
of planting trim them carefully, removing all side
growths, as only one main growth is wanted. Upon
the strength of the growth depends the size of the
bulb or root. During growth the lateral shoots must
be removed as they show as this strengthens the plant.

CHICORY 141

The after management is simple, and consists in
feeding, and watering and hoeing between the plants.
On the Continent, from where fine roots of this vege-
table are imported for the London market, liberal
mulches of decayed manure are spread between the
rows, but by giving attention to cultural details, we
can grow this plant equally as well in this country,
surely a point not to be forgotten. It is not necessary
to store the roots, as they winter well if clamped like
potatoes, or the soil may be drawn well over the
crowns in their growing quarters, but treated thus the
plants are difficult to get when severe weather sets in.
The usual practice is to lift a portion as required,
leaving the remainder in the ground until wanted for
use. There are not many varieties, but the Continental
ones are best,, such as the Large Prague and the Apple
Shaped, the last mentioned being a thicker and more
succulent root. The roots may be cooked in the same
way as Beetroot, and used as a salad, but they are more
palatable when cooked and served whole.

CHICORY.

This is not a favourite vegetable, but is esteemed
in some households. Seed should be sown in March
in drills in rows eighteen inches apart, and the plants
thinned to half that distance in the rows. This will
result in good roots for a winter supply from Novem-
ber to April. Place the roots in a dark cellar or Mush-
room house, and in about a month the top growth

i42 VEGETABLES NEGLECTED

will be fit for use. Put them almost close together,
and as soon as the new growths are from four to six
inches long cut them and boil like Seakale. Chicory is
a thoroughly wholesome vegetable but its bitter taste
is not always enjoyed. If the growths are allowed to
get too long, or are developed in too much warmth,
they open out, whereas for use as a vegetable they
should be compact and sturdy. Chicory grows well
in any ordinary soil, and when lifted in the autumn
may be laid in close together, merely covering with
litter to preserve the crowns. Twist off the old leaves
as the roots are lifted. There are several kinds but
the one grown so much on the Continent, the Witloef,
is the largest. The blanched leaves are also exten-
sively used for salads during the winter.

SALSIFY AND SCORZONERA.

These roots need almost identical treatment so
they are bracketed together. It is a pity that these
vegetables are not more grown, as they supply the
table at a season when variety is appreciated. English
gardeners do not try as a rule to get much change for
the various seasons.

Salsify is a root of excellent quality and frequently
called the vegetable oyster, owing to its peculiar flavour.
Culture is simple, seed being sown in land that has
been well manured and deeply dug for a previous crop ;
indeed, this root does well after Celery. From March
to May will be found a good time to sow, doing so

AUBERGINE OR EGG PLANT 143

in drills eighteen inches apart with half that distance
in the row. To obtain large plants sow early in good
loamy soil, but in poor or in very light land the plants
run to seed when sowing takes place too soon. If
newly manured land is used for this crop the roots
fork badly and do not become straight, thick and
fleshy. It is not well to lift the roots too early, in-
deed, if the plants are covered where they are with a
little litter they will take no harm. Roots so wintered
are of much better flavour than those in a store, as,
if shrivelled, they lose their good qualities. Scorzonera
needs just the same culture ; it is of a different colour
and shape to Salsify but it needs deeper land, and the
roots are small if not given good culture. Sow the
seed early in May in an open position, in land as advised
for Salsify, and at the same distance apart. The plants
during growth give little trouble and succeed well in
a good light soil, and may be served in the same way
as Salsify. If only one of these vegetables is grown
choose Salsify. The plants remain good from October
until March, or later, but after that they begin to flower
and get tough and juiceless. The best Salsify is the
Mammoth or Giant, which is much superior to the
older common form, and the large Russian is the best
of the Scorzoneras. Salsify is sometimes spelt Salsafy.

AUBERGINE OR EGG PLANT.

Although the Egg Plant is regarded almost as a
curiosity, it is well worth frame or pit culture as a

I44 VEGETABLES NEGLECTED

vegetable, grown at the start somewhat in the same
way as the Capsicum when the latter is grown for
using green. The seed should be sown early in the
spring in heat, and the seedlings pricked out like those
of Celery, and when large enough planted out in rich
soil in a frame or pit, from fifteen inches to eighteen
inches from the frame or glass. Give the plants liberal
treatment for a time, close early in the afternoon and
damp overhead. The purple variety is the best when
cooked, and both this and the other varieties should
not be allowed to get too old before they are used.
The Aubergine is a favourite in the United States, the
New York Purple being a variety of excellent flavour.
There is also a black fruit, a Chinese variety, that is
of free growth, and these last two are excellent for
general culture. When in flower it is well to give
more ventilation and less moisture overhead, but when
set they enjoy liberal supplies of liquid manure. If the
plants are given a little bottom heat at the start, they
grow rapidly, but red spider and thrips soon trouble
the foliage, so that dryness should be guarded against.

SUGAR CORN.

This is not common in this country, but it is well
worth a special note. In the United States Sugar Corn
is largely cultivated for cooking, and should find more
favour in this country as a vegetable. It requires a
deep well-manured soil, and succeeds best in deep drills
or shallow trenches, with a liberal amount of manure

SUGAR CORN 145

for the roots. It is surprising how large an amount
of moisture these plants will absorb, and the weight of
corn they produce. Of course, as a vegetable the corn
is used green, and to get early supplies it is necessary
to sow in small pots late in March or early in April in
cold frames, and plant out in rich land in May. Grown
thus a very early supply is secured. Sowings made
in the open late in April and May, in rows three feet
apart, and half that distance between the plants in the
row, will give excellent material. The seed should be
dropped in patches at the .distance named, and the
seedlings thinned to the strongest. There are many
varieties ; the Early Dwarf Sugar, Early Six Weeks and
Sweet Triumphant are among the best. The green
cobs should not be allowed to harden, but cooked while
tender and served with melted butter.

10

CHAPTER V.

VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION.

No branch of gardening deserves more encouragement
than the culture of high-class vegetables. Good vege-
tables are one of the necessities of life, and it is pro-
fitable and pleasurable to grow them to perfection.
During the past thirty years enormous strides have
been made in their development, and this is greatly
due to the encouragement in the shape of prizes offered
at many of our large exhibitions, and also at our cottage
garden shows held in many towns and villages through-
out the country. Mr. Beckett writes : —

I hope I may live to see the day when a truly
National Vegetable Society is formed, in which en-
couragement is given to the trade, professional garden-
ers, amateurs and cottagers. If such a society was
once formed I have not the slightest doubt, if properly
worked, it would prove one of the most useful and
interesting of horticultural organisations. It is argued
that vegetable exhibitions are not sufficiently beautiful
or interesting to attract the general public, but I am
convinced that this is not so. We have only to call
to mind the interest centred in fine collections at such
shows as Shrewsbury, London, Birmingham and Read-

146

PREPARATION OF THE LAND 147

ing, when valuable prizes are offered and the finest
types of vegetables splendidly presented. Almost
every vegetable during recent years has been taken in
hand by the hybridiser, the result generally being
better strains. Peas, Potatoes, Cauliflowers, Tomatoes,
Cucumbers, Brussels Sprouts, Carrots, Celery, Vege-
table Marrows, Cabbage, Onions, Beans of all kinds,
Leeks, and many others have been greatly improved
of late years. Those who are thinking and hoping to
excel in the production of high-class vegetables must
remember that much work and forethought are needful,
but let it not be forgotten that even when one has no
good position or ideal vegetable soil a splendid success
is not impossible. There is no soil or position in the
country that cannot be brought into a suitable con-
dition for, if not all, the majority of vegetables. Those
who persevere are the ones to succeed. Success is not
a matter of mere luck as some imagine.

Preparation of the Land. — I regard this as of the
utmost importance, and unless it can be brought into
a good state of cultivation no amount of work and
worry will ever produce the finest vegetables. Deep
cultivation must be persisted in, and in spite of what
other growers may say, I know from long practical ex-
perience that when this is systematically practised quite
double and sometimes treble returns are assured. It
is not so much a matter of size of garden or farm as
the way it is worked. The land must be deeply
drained, and the trenching practised if possible annually
at no less a depth than two feet six inches or three

148 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

feet. Bring the bottom spit to the surface, and break
up the soil deeply below with a fork. This will re-
ceive almost any garden refuse or manure which may
come to hand, the longest and greenest being placed in
the bottom, throwing on the surface spit, which will in
time find its way to the top. Instead of about a foot
or in some cases less of workable soil, one will in a
short time possess a valuable depth of soil capable of
producing good specimens of almost any vegetable.
Of course it is essential to make stiff and retentive land
light -by working into it suitable material, especially so
on the surface after the trenching is completed, such
as wood ashes, old mortar rubble, and road scrapings.
Stable manure somewhat green should be used in pre-
ference to any other on heavy land, and that from
horned stock for lighter soils. Light land should be
trenched during autumn and winter, but the stiffer
soils as much as possible during February and March.

Rotation of Crops. — It is hardly necessary to dwell
at any great length on this, as it is generally well
understood by all who make any pretence at gardening.
The sites for the different crops should be changed as
far as possible each year, except in a few cases such as
Onions, Shallots, Artichokes and Horse-radish, each
of which, provided the ground is well replenished with
manure yearly, may be grown on the same land for
years.

duality versus Size. — This question has been dis-
cussed many times. It does not always follow that
size means bad quality. Good judges should be in a

VARIETIES TO GROW 149

position to determine this, but unquestionably size is
far too often taken into consideration, especially in the
case of such things as Potatoes, Cauliflowers, Cab-
bage, Vegetable Marrows, Cucumbers and Tomatoes.
Potatoes particularly are shown too large, and medium-
sized tubers of the finest quality should certainly be
preferred to large ones, even though they may be
shapely and of good appearance. Onions, Leeks and
Celery, however, if of the best varieties, cannot be
staged too large, for the reason that size denotes high-
class culture and good quality.

Varieties to Grow. — It is well to remember that
an inferior vegetable is as troublesome to grow as a
good one ; although the cost of procuring the best
varieties in the first place may be somewhat more ex-
pensive, it is cheaper in the end to get the best, and
when once in possession of any special strain endeavour
to keep it by saving your own seed annually. This
applies especially to Peas, Beans, Onions, Cucumbers,
Tomatoes and Marrows, each being easily selected and
saved.

Staging Exhibits. — Practice alone can make one per-
fect. The difference between a well set up collection
of vegetables and one arranged slovenly is most ap-
parent, and though there may be little difference in the
quality of the produce in each case, vegetables well
shown are certain to win, and rightly so, and the same
applies to single dishes.

Judges. — Too much care cannot be exercised in
selecting competent men for this most important and

1 50 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

responsible post. When this is done, no exhibitor
should complain of their decision, although it may not
always agree with his own belief. Much must be
taken into consideration when judging vegetables, and
nothing more so than the season. When making, for
instance, awards through August and September during
trying seasons, a good dish of Turnips perfect in every
respect should receive the maximum number of points,
but on the other hand, when the season has been
favourable to their production, these should not carry
much weight. Nothing is more easily obtained during
a wet season, and nothing more difficult during a hot
dry summer. Again, more attention should be paid
to quality, especially in the case of Potatoes and Peas.
Some varieties are all that can be desired as far as
appearance goes, but are of the poorest quality when
cooked. This is of the greatest importance. When
judging fruit quality is generally the first thing con-
sidered.

GLOBE ARTICHOKES.

No dish is more appreciated by good judges in a
collection of vegetables than that of Globe Artichokes
when they are shown to the best advantage, but they
are rarely cultivated except in large gardens.

To have heads of the best quality, trench the ground
two and a half feet deep in the autumn and mix in
with it some road scrapings and coal ashes, for which
the Globe Artichoke has a particular fondness, if the
soil be at all stiff. Leave the soil quite rough until

GLOBE ARTICHOKES 151

March so that frost and wind may penetrate it. Fork
over the surface at the end of the month and procure
suckers of a good variety.

Planting should be done during the second week
in April, allowing a distance of three feet apart and
four feet between each row. Plant very firmly and
earth up with cinder ashes as a preventive against slugs,
and in dry weather mulch with long stable litter,
and water in.

Give plenty of liquid manure when the plants are
in full bearing. If required for exhibition the Arti-
chokes should be perfectly fresh, close at the top and
of a good colour.

When the Artichokes are wanted late in autumn
take heed of the weather and at the first sign of frost
protect with mats or similar material. The heads can
be cut quite ten days before the exhibition and placed
in water with a small portion of the stem removed
every other day and fresh water given.

The best results are obtained by making fresh
plantations annually, and none of the old plants should
be allowed to occupy the ground for more than two
years. Take off young suckers every year during
autumn and pot them up into six-inch pots and winter
in a cold frame, or plunge the pots in leaves or ashes
in a sheltered position such as the foot of a south wall
where they may be protected during severe weather.
There are many varieties under cultivation, but by far
the best for all purposes is the Large Green Globe,
which is free from prickles, and more tender than many

152 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

others. A few of the best brown variety should be
grown for a change. Seedlings can never be depended
upon.

BROAD BEANS.

Broad Beans even when at their best can only rank
as a second-class vegetable, nevertheless it is essential
always to have them ready during their season, as
sometimes in large collections they will have to be
included.

The first sowing should be made about the 2oth
of January in boxes two feet long, one foot wide and
four and a half inches deep. This date will be found
quite early enough for the first batch. Fill the boxes
three parts full with a compost consisting of three parts
light loam, one part leaf mould, and road grit all in
moderately dry condition.

Thoroughly water in and place in a cool fruit or
greenhouse, failing this a cold frame or a sheltered
position in the open. Cover with pieces of board or
glass, and keep the frost away until the young growths
appear, then thoroughly harden, exposing as much as
possible, and encouraging a sturdy growth. The plant-
ing out may be done as soon as the weather will permit.

These sowings should be repeated once a fortnight
for six weeks, after which the seed can be sown out-
side. To produce exhibition pods, it is necessary to
thoroughly prepare the ground. Trenches should be
taken out in the same way as for Celery, three feet
apart, eighteen inches deep and the same in width.

KIDNEY OR FRENCH BEANS 153

Thoroughly break up the bottom with a steel fork
and add ten inches of good rotten manure, which should
be covered with some of the finest soil taken from the
trenches, and make the surface neat and fine.

When ready for planting lift the plants carefully
with a trowel, having a double line in each trench,
ten inches apart and eight inches from plant to plant.
Dust with soot and sprinkle with fine cinder ashes
round the plants. When they are tall enough, with
sufficient bloom showing, the tops can be picked out.

Good soakings of liquid manure should be given
when the pods are well set, and if exceptional pods are
required examine the best plants and mark the most
promising with a piece of bast. Remove the smaller
pods and leave about six of the best on the plant.

It is a good plan to stake separately, thus en-
couraging the pods to grow straight and prevent wind
from blowing them about. A good mulching of
manure will be of much assistance in dry weather.
When staging for exhibition they are best arranged
all one way on a dish. Pick them the evening previ-
ous to the show as they will last better if left on the
plant than if picked a few days before and put into
water, unless in a too forward condition. Leviathan
is preferable to any other variety, and Green Long-
pod is good.

KIDNEY OR FRENCH BEANS.

The first sowing should be made under glass in
pots or in a heated brick pit, the former being pre-

154 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

ferable in a good rich compost, using eight- or ten-
inch well-drained pots. Fill them half-full with soil,
select the finest Beans and sow five in a pot, four round
the edge and one in the middle. Cover to the depth
of one inch and place in a gentle heat.

When the plants are level with the top of the pot,
fill up with a mixture of good porous loam and
old Mushroom bed manure. Stop the plants and
place them on a shelf near the glass, and syringe
twice a day to keep down red spider.

As the young pods become visible admit air on
all favourable occasions and give manure water at
every other watering.

For planting in the open, sowings should be made
about the loth of April in pots or boxes under glass.
Encourage a sturdy growth and gradually harden the
plants off before they are transferred to their per-
manent quarters choosing a warm position under a
south wall if possible.

Plant in rows two feet apart and ten inches from
plant to plant. Draw the soil up to the seed leaf and
eventually top dress with old Mushroom bed manure.
Dust the plants with soot, wood ashes and lime to
prevent slugs attacking them.

About the 25th of April will be soon enough for
making a sowing in the open, choosing a sheltered
border and land that has been trenched and manured
and pointed over with a fork before sowing.

The stronger growing varieties should be in rows
three feet apart, and six inches from plant to plant.

CLIMBING OR RUNNER BEANS 155

Sow the seed in double lines, cover it two inches
deep and remove every alternate plant when the
seedlings are above the ground. Sow once a fortnight
to maintain a constant supply, the last one not later
than the end of July on a south border. Pods
for exhibition should be clean, straight, of a good
pale green colour, and crisp. No variety surpasses
Canadian Wonder when a good strain is obtained.
Another variety that can be recommended is Ne Plus
Ultra. French Beans are invaluable when shown at
their best at spring and summer exhibitions, and their
quality and appearance are much improved when
grown under glass in cool houses or pits.

CLIMBING OR RUNNER BEANS.

This vegetable is indispensable for shows during
August and September as it forms a distinct and tell-
ing dish in all collections. Enormous improvements
have been made in this Bean during recent years, and
every effort should be made to procure the best strains
and cultivate them well, when pods from ten inches
to a foot in length will be produced.

As the Bean roots deeply a trench should be taken
out two feet in width and the same in depth and
filled to within six inches of the top with good half-
rotten farm-yard manure. Leave the soil in this state
until sowing time, or planting of the earliest, raised
under glass, a plan strongly recommended.

The first sowing outside should be made the first

156 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

week in May. Place three inches of the soil taken
from the trenches on the manure and break it up finely.
Sow two rows of the best selected Beans in each trench,
allowing a distance of eight inches between each seed
and ten inches between the lines. Cover the seed two
inches deep with soil and rake down neatly.

Sometimes slugs are troublesome, and a sure pre-
ventive is to place a ridge of cinder ashes on each
side of the rows, and when the young plants make
their appearance, dust them over with lime and soot
in equal proportions in early morning.

Staking. — Procure long stout sticks similar to
those used for tall Peas and thrust them well into
the ground to prevent the wind blowing them about.
At every ten yards, drive two poles, one on each side
of the row, well into the ground and also two at each
end of the row ; the height should be at least nine feet.
Ten inches from the top stretch stout tar cord along
from pole to pole.

When the growth has reached the top of the poles
nip off with a pair of shears as this encourages the
plants to break and bear freely.

Give a good heavy mulching of half-rotten manure
and water copiously in dry weather.

When pods are required for exhibition the rows
should be well looked over, and the most promising
pods discovered. Then thin the bunch to two, and
pinch out the young points. Apply a slight dressing
of some trustworthy artificial manure and syringe in
the evening in hot dry weather.

BEETROOT 157

The best variety is Best of All, the pods being
handsome, produced very freely and of excellent
flavour. Neal's Ne Plus Ultra, Scarlet Emperor
and Prizewinner, if carefully selected, are also very
good.

BEETROOT.

Though not such an important vegetable as many
others for exhibition, every exhibitor of vegetables
should be prepared with a good dish or two. It should
be included in all large collections, but not in any con-
taining less than ten. To obtain first-class specimens
a deep light loam is necessary, and the Beet should be
grown on land previously occupied by Celery, and no
manure used when preparing the ground for this crop.
As soon as the Celery has been cleared off commence
to trench, giving a dressing of old mortar rubbish, road
scrapings and wood ashes. The practice of boring
holes as advised for Carrots also holds good in this
case, whatever soil one may have to deal with. Bore
the holes four feet deep, fifteen inches apart, and
eighteen inches between the rows, filling in firmly with
old potting soil, road scrapings, old hot-bed manure,
well decayed leaf soil, mortar rubbish, and wood ashes,
passing the whole through a quarter-inch mesh sieve.
Place four or five seeds in the centre about two inches
below the surface. In the early morning dust with soot
and wood ashes occasionally, and keep the Dutch hoe
busy between the plants when they appear to be making
headway. Thin out as advised in other instances, and

158 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

three or four times in the earlier part of the growing
season a slight dressing of a good artificial manure may
be given, choosing a showery day for the purpose.
At the first sign of frost lift the roots, twist off a few
of the outer leaves, and store the crop in a cool position,
from which frost is excluded, in finely sifted road sand.
For exhibition they should be of medium size, evenly
tapering, regular, with a clean skin, and about twelve
inches to fifteen inches long. Soak for half an hour
in cold water, then sponge carefully, and remove any
small rootlets with a sharp knife. The young fresh
leaves should be left on, and the roots syringed just
before leaving them to be judged. Good long-rooted
varieties are Dobbie's New Purple, Pragnell's Exhibi-
tion, Sutton's Black and Sutton's Dark Red. For
early use Carter's Crimson Globe and Sutton's Globe
are good. These should be sown about 2Oth April
in rows one foot apart, and the plants thinned out
to ten inches between each. A good soil for this
crop is that described in the first instance, and the
best situation a south border.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS.

For late autumn shows a good dish of Brussels
Sprouts forms a pleasing and telling feature in all col-
lections of vegetables where eight varieties and more
are required. Undoubtedly the best soil for Brussels
Sprouts is a good heavy loam, but properly prepared
almost any land is suitable. As a long season of growth

BRUSSELS SPROUTS 159

is required the ground should be deeply trenched in
winter and a heavy dressing of farmyard manure in-
corporated, leaving the surface rough until spring,
when as open a position as possible should be chosen.
Sow the seeds thinly in pans or boxes under glass at
the end of February or early in March. As soon as
possible prick out the seedlings into boxes three inches
apart, and later on transfer to a border outside in a
sheltered position. After the first pricking off damp
over and shade for a few days, and never allow the
plants to suffer for want of water. Gradually harden
off, and when they are about six inches high put out
into their permanent quarters. Then the ground
should be broken up and levelled. Lift with a good
ball of soil, which should be made firm round each one
when planted. Give each plant plenty of room, as
nothing is gained by overcrowding ; three feet should
be allowed between the rows and two feet six inches
from plant to plant, and water freely with clear water.
The draw hoe must be frequently used, and copious
supplies of sewage water given in hot, dry weather.
For later supplies a second sowing should be made
about April loth. By the end of September place a
stick against the most promising plants for identifica-
tion, also stake the selected ones to keep them upright.
Every ten days a teaspoonful of a good artificial manure
should be washed down to the roots of the selected
plants. When Brussel Sprouts are exhibited on their
stems three is generally the number. These stems
should have clean, firm buttons from top to bottom.

160 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

Remove the large under-leaves, also any decaying ones
from the buttons. Syringe the stems and roots with
clear water, and fix them in small pots for staging.
Where the detached Sprouts only are exhibited, fifty
is generally the number. Take them ofF with a knife,
leaving a small part of the stem to assist in handling
them. Splendid exhibition varieties are Sutton's
Dwarf Gem and Cambridge Champion. A common
mistake in exhibiting these is that the buttons are
generally staged much too large ; they should be of
medium size, quite firm, and with a perfectly smooth
surface.

CABBAGES.

Though one of the most useful vegetables cultivated
in the kitchen garden, the Cabbage can hardly be called
a high-class one for exhibition, but when shown heads
of medium size, fresh and unblemished should be
selected. A mistake very often made is to sow the
seed too soon for the spring supply, consequently a
large percentage of plants instead of turning in run to
seed.

The 25th of July will be soon enough to make a
sowing in an open part of the garden, which should not
be manured previous to sowing. Scatter the seed broad-
cast and before raking it, strew over the bed a mixture
of finely sifted old lime rubbish and wood ashes, as
this is a safeguard against insect pests.

Securely net the bed against birds. This sowing,
if possible, should be made on a south border or in some

CABBAGES 161

sheltered position, and the plants are not particular as
to soil if it has been well manured and deeply trenched.
Plant eighteen inches between the rows and one foot
from plant to plant, so that in spring every other one
may be taken out. These are often useful for filling
up, especially after a hard winter, thus leaving the plants
two feet asunder.

For this sowing Ellam's Early is a trustworthy
variety, seldom running to seed, turning in quickly,
and is of excellent flavour. Make a second sowing
about August i6th in a sheltered position, and plant
the seedlings when large enough in an open part of the
garden.

It is a good plan to put them on ground previously
cropped with Onions, as this will have been deeply
trenched and manured, and will therefore only require
another dressing of farmyard manure or some good
artificial like ichthemic guano, which is especially
good for this crop, and deeply dug in.

Plant as advised before and keep the ground well
stirred with the hoe.

Ellam's Early, Enfield Market, Sutton's April,
Daniel's Little Queen and Flower of Spring are good
for this sowing.

Any that show a tendency to clubbing should be
thrown away and replaced from the seed bed. About
the middle of November earth up the stems, to keep
them safe for winter, and at the end of March bring
the draw hoe into use and stir the soil up thoroughly.

About a teaspoonful of nitrate of soda to each plant
will prove very beneficial.

ii

1 62 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

Make two more sowings in June, one on the loth
and another about the 2oth, in an open part of the
garden. Plant out on deeply dug heavily manured
ground ; these will be for autumn and winter supplies.

The varieties recommended are Rosette Colewort
and Hardy London Green ; these give small and deli-
cious heads, and one foot apart all ways will be
sufficient.

Pickling Cabbages. — Make a sowing of these about
the 1 5th of August, prick out in a sheltered position
four inches each way to winter, and in the spring plant
two feet apart each way in an open position. Dwarf
Blood Red is the best.

CARDOONS.

Although Cardoons have never become popular,
they have been more largely cultivated during recent
years, and when well grown are very acceptable at the
table.

They are only seen in large collections, and although
something like Globe Artichokes in appearance, require
quite a different method of cultivation.

Take out trenches two feet deep and twenty inches
wide, and break up the bottom soil — the trenches
should not be less than five feet apart — and place some
well-decayed horse manure in them, almost level with
the top, and cover with two inches of soil.

Sow the seed the first week in May, not before,
otherwise many of the seedlings will probably run to

CARROTS 163

flower. Dibble the seed in twenty inches apart, with
three or four in a hole, and cover over with an inch and
a half of fine soil. Thin the seedlings to one at a
place when large enough, and use the strongest plants
for making good any failures.

Keep the plants well supplied with water during
the growing season, and give farmyard manure water
once a week. Watering overhead is a good practice in
hot and dry weather, and produces what is most es-
sential, viz., a quick growth.

Blanching of Cardoons must commence ten weeks
before they are wanted, and be continued at intervals of
ten days until the process is complete, stiff brown paper
and hay-bands being the best material for the purpose.
Put the paper about eight inches up the plant for a
start, then bind round a hay-band, and secure each
plant to a stout stake. Bank soil up to the same height,
and continue this until the blanching is completed.

Cardoons are useful during October and November
to the exhibitor of large collections of vegetables, if
the stems are blanched about two feet.

CARROTS.

Select a deep sandy loam for this crop, although
capital roots are often grown on sandy peat, but seldom
indeed can exhibition specimens of the finest type be
produced unless special means are taken to procure
them. Few things are more attractive when at their
best than Carrots at any season of the year, consequently

1 64 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

the additional trouble incurred to secure them is time
well spent. For early shows the seed must be sown
under glass during January or February, or, better
still, one sowing at the beginning of each month. A
brick pit with sufficient hot-water piping to counteract
frost is a distinct advantage, and failing this substitute
a hot-bed of leaves. There must be no undue hurry
in placing the prepared material in the frames, for
should this become overheated the chances of good
clean Carrots are remote. Sufficient warmth should
be maintained to create a growing temperature. Get
together a compost embracing the following ingredients,
or as much like them as possible : Old potting soil,
road grit, old mortar rubbish, peat, well-decayed leaf
soil, and light sandy loam which has been stacked for
some time. Mix in equal proportions, and to every
fifteen barrow loads of the mixture add one of wood ashes
and half a bushel of bone-meal or Clay's Fertilizer,
passing the whole which should be prepared some days
beforehand and thoroughly incorporated through a
quarter-inch-mesh sieve. In the bottom of the pit
place a layer of three inches of old Mushroom bed
material, covering this with the compost to the depth
of eighteen inches or two feet. Three good varieties
for these sowings are New Scarlet Intermediate, Cham-
pion Scarlet Horn and Veitch's Model. On fine days
the sowings should be syringed, shutting up the structure
early in the afternoon. Thin out as soon as the seed-
lings are large enough to handle, only partially at first,
but later on thin out to three inches apart ; ventilate

CARROTS 165

freely as they get established, ultimately entirely remov-
ing the lights. Young Carrots may be pulled from
time to time for immediate use, thus allowing those
intended for exhibition space to develop properly. For
autumn and winter shows the second week in April is
a suitable time to make a sowing. No manure should
be added to the ground, which should be thoroughly
trenched during winter, and unless soil is available
similar to that first named boring holes must be re-
sorted to and filled with a mixture similar to that
previously described. So certain is one of obtaining
a large percentage of typical roots that we would
strongly advise every one to practise this plan if only
a row or two be done. The holes should be bored
with an iron bar to the depth of three feet four inches,
and allow a distance of thirteen inches from plant to
plant. The rows should be eighteen inches apart.
Use the mixture in all cases moderately dry, and ram
it firmly with a stick. Place about six seeds, which
should be just covered, in each hole, and neatly rake
over the soil. Thin out the resulting seedlings, leav-
ing three of the most promising for a week or ten
days, after which thin to one, leaving, of course, the
strongest and healthiest plant as close as possible to the
centre of the hole. Dust the growths in early morn-
ing with fresh soot once a week. Green fly is often
very troublesome in the young stages of growth, but
this may be easily got rid of by a timely application of
strong soft soap and water, which should be distributed
with a syringe. Keep the hoe constantly plied be-

1 66 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

tween the plants when the growth is of fair size.
Mulch the whole of the ground with old Mushroom
bed manure to the depth of one inch, and during spells
of dry weather occasionally water the crop thoroughly.
The whole of the crop should be carefully lifted when
the growth is completed, otherwise many of the best
roots will split. The best exhibition specimens are
quite clean, of moderate size, symmetrical in form, and
of a good dark red colour. Trim off all small root-
lets with a sharp knife, partly reduce the tops, and
store in a cool shed or cellar in fine sand, placing the
roots in an upright position. When preparing them
the day previous to the exhibition, soak the specimens
for about an hour, clean them with a soft sponge, and
thoroughly rinse in clear water. Cracked specimens,
those attacked by wire-worm or having green tops
should be rejected. For all autumn and late shows
there is no variety, in my opinion, to beat a true type
of the New Red Intermediate, but, at the same time,
when first-class specimens of Long Surrey can be had,
this is a very close rival.

CAULIFLOWERS.

Cauliflowers when well shown form an attractive
and valuable feature of all vegetable competitions.
No matter what the season of the year may be and
the size of the collections, neither Cauliflowers nor
Broccoli must be excluded, but, whenever possible, of
the two give the preference to the Cauliflower. Con-

CAULIFLOWERS 167

sequently, strenuous efforts should be made to get
medium-sized, close, pearly white heads in the freshest
possible condition, and to obtain these make frequent
small sowings of suitable varieties. Liberal culture is
necessary. For early supplies in the spring the sowings
should be made in the autumn, one during the first
week in September and another about the 2fth of the
month, on a south border in the open. The seed
should be sown thinly in beds as advised for other sow-
ings of the Brassica tribe and securely netted. When
large enough to handle, prick the seedlings out in cold
frames four inches apart each way in soil not over rich,
otherwise too much growth will be made. Give air
freely on all favourable occasions, but never allow the
plants to become dust dry. In severe weather protect
the lights with some covering material. Two good
varieties for this sowing are Walcheren, an old favourite,
but still good, and Magnum Bonum. Many of
the latter will become blind from this sowing after
they are planted out, but it is important to grow this
variety, as it produces heads of the finest quality after
the Walcheren and when Cauliflowers are scarce. It
is a good practice to plant for this crop just as thick
again as required ; then a good supply is ensured.
For the main crop plantations should be made at the
end of March or the beginning of April, putting out
the best plants on a south border, two feet six inches
between the rows and two feet from plant to plant.
Lift with a good ball of soil and plant with a trowel.
To prolong the supply, plant a batch in an open situa-

1 68 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

tion and a third on a north border. Early in February
and again in March sowings should be made for later
supplies, growing on freely and planting out as soon
as hardened off. Make a sowing about April loth
for late autumn use, suitable varieties being Magnum
Bonum, Early Giant and Autumn Giant. When plant-
ing out the rows should be three feet apart, with a
distance of two feet from plant to plant. Almost
any soil will grow Cauliflowers when it is thoroughly
trenched and well manured. This crop revels in copious
supplies of liquid manure, and, if good heads are wished
for, this generous treatment is most essential. Hoe
constantly all through the growing season to keep
weeds in check ; this also contributes towards success-
ful culture. Cauliflowers may be kept in fresh and
good condition for at least a fortnight if lifted before
they are fully developed and hung up head downwards
in a cellar or some other cool place. A common mis-
take in exhibiting Cauliflowers in the majority of cases
is that they are staged too large, and why judges so
often favour these it is difficult to understand.

CELERY.

Celery is frequently not so well shown on the
exhibition stage as it should be, but when well-grown
specimens free from blemishes are staged it is highly
attractive and shows the skill of the cultivator. Some
object to large specimens, but this is a mistake, pro-
viding of course they are solid, and when cut with a

CELERY 169

knife the heart is close to the root. Two sowings of
seed at least should be made, the first not later than
the middle of February, and the second in the first
week in March. Soil of a moderately light texture
should be used, but not rich ; a mixture of half leaf
soil and half light loam finely sifted, with a moderate
addition of either road or coarse silver sand, forming
a suitable compost.

The pots or pans should be well drained. Raise
the seedlings in a gentle heat, taking care that at no
stage of growth any check whatever is experienced,
the most serious of all being an absence of moisture
at the roots, especially when in the seed pans. When
this is the case a large proportion frequently run
prematurely to seed. When the seedlings are large
enough to handle prick them off three inches apart in
boxes, using a light sandy soil. Return the boxes to
a gentle heat, gradually hardening the seedlings off as
they get established before planting out. This applies
to the first sowing. From the second sowing the seed-
lings may be pricked out in any warm sheltered part
of the garden where a rough framework can be placed
round them for protection. Shade from hot sun and
give shelter from cold drying winds for a time, also
covering them up in some way during cold nights.
A large number of varieties are in commerce, many
of which are excellent and many practically worthless,
either for exhibition or home consumption. Repeated
trials have been made on a large scale of most of the
known kinds and the conclusion arrived at is that the

170 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

two best red varieties are Standard Bearer and Major
Clarke's ; Pink, Aldenham Pink Perfection, and of
white, White Gem, Sutton's Solid White and Wright's
Giant White.

Celery is often required for shows during August
and September, and in large collections of vegetables it
is essential. No time should therefore be lost in get-
ting plants put out into well-prepared trenches im-
mediately they are considered large enough, and if well
hardened beforehand they will be practically safe against
all weathers. For the earliest supplies the trenches
should be fifteen inches wide, one foot deep, and below
this the soil broken up to the depth of ten inches with
the fork ; a distance of three feet between the trenches
will suffice. Fill in to within three inches of the top
of the trench with the best manure available, which
must be made as firm as possible by well treading it.
Cover this with three inches of the soil previously
taken out of the trench, level down before planting,
and if possible this should be accomplished a week or
two before the plants are put out. Plant in single
rows, leaving a space of ten inches between each plant.
Each should be lifted carefully with a garden trowel,
disturbing the roots as little as possible. When plant-
ing, commence at one end, walking backwards and
pressing the soil firmly round the roots.

The next batch will include such as Standard
Bearer and Aldenham Pink Perfection. Plant these
one foot apart, allowing a distance of three feet six inches
between each trench, and give copious supplies of water

CELERY 171

all through the growing season ; indeed, during spells of
dry weather it is almost impossible to supply too much.
Being a gross feeder manure water may be added quite
freely. Sewage water is preferable to any other. Soot
should be dusted over the plants in the early morning
once a week at least, and this will help to keep the
Celery fly in check as well as prove an excellent stimu-
lant. Should the Celery fly at any time prove trouble-
some, pick ofFall affected leaves, burn them, and at the
same time give extra dustings of soot. Blanching may
be satisfactorily carried out in from six to eight weeks,
but before doing so carefully remove all side growths and
split and decayed leaves. Give a thorough drenching
of water before commencing. When the growths are
thoroughly dry, stout brown paper bands five inches in
width and long enough to go round the plant should be
placed in position and tied moderately tight with raffia
in three places. Work sufficient soil round them to
exclude all light and air. Watering must not be discon-
tinued, but be given at the roots, both clear and liquid
manure, about every eight days. Immediately the
heart shows above the brown paper band add another
strip and work up the soil as before until a sufficient
length is being blanched. When completed, six inches
at least of the leaves must be left unpapered. It is well
during the blanching process to undo the material and
carefully examine it to make sure that no decayed leaves,
slugs or worms are spoiling the specimens. In warm,
dry weather, damp over the plants with clean water
from a fine rose can every morning and afternoon.

172 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

This is most beneficial and promotes a quick and free
growth. Lift the specimens the day before they are
wanted, removing only the worst of the outside leaves
and washing off all dirt. Stand them head down-
wards and give a thorough syringing with clean water.
Finally reverse their position and give the last rinsing.
It is usual to stage either three or six sticks, arranging
them in triangular fashion. At the last moment, when
staging, trim off the bottom with a sharp knife, and
wipe the sticks with a damp clean sponge. Slightly
spray them over and keep covered with white paper.

CUCUMBERS.

At most exhibitions of any extent prizes are offered
for a brace of Cucumbers, but as a rule a very large
percentage are anything but what they should be, and
they are usually staged too large. An ideal brace of
Cucumbers should be as near alike as possible, quite
short handles, the same size in circumference through-
out, no marks of handling should be seen on them, and
the flower retained at the ends. Trustworthy varieties
of quick growth are essential. Ten days after the
fruits are in flower during spring and summer should
be sufficiently long for development. The fruits and
foliage should not be syringed but a strong heat and
moist atmosphere maintained.

For spring and summer supplies begin sowing at
the end of January and again in February and March
in small sixty-sized pots, placing one seed in each and

CUCUMBERS 173

water in with warm water. Plunge the pots in a
gentle bottom heat until the young growth appears,
then place them near the glass in a temperature rang-
ing from 60° to 70° and not below 60° at night. As
the rough leaves appear pot on into four-inch pots,
warming the soil and placing it about the roots care-
fully. Plant in the prepared bed when these pots
become filled with roots, and great care must be taken
that the plants are not exposed to any chill from cold
draughts or by applying cold water to the roots or
foliage.

A suitable compost for this planting will be the
soil cut from an old pasture the previous autumn.
Chop up as small as hen's eggs, and if at all heavy
mix with it some well-decayed leaf soil, old spent
Mushroom bed, road scrapings and old mortar rubble.
Place on the bed and make moderately firm.

Pinch out the point of the growth after it has
reached the first wire, and do not shade at all as Cucum-
bers like plenty of sun, and admit very little air at any
time. Never allow the roots to become dry or the
fruits will be useless. When the plants are in full
bearing give manure water at every other watering,
also a top dressing once a fortnight of loam and well-
rotted manure, with a sprinkling occasionally of a good
artificial manure. Liquid manure water poured on
the floor at night will greatly benefit the plants. Look
over them two or three times a week, remove decay-
ing leaves and badly shaped fruits, and regulate the
growths.

174 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

Fumigate at once if any insect life appears, and for
mildew keep the house dry and dust with black sulphur.

For maintaining a supply during the winter, suffi-
cient artificial heat and a lean-to or three-quarter-
span house are necessary. All should be ready by
the last week in October, by preparing a good sweet
fermenting material, and the soil should consist of two
parts good fibrous loam and two of leaf soil passed
through an inch sieve. Add a peck each of coarse
road grit and finely broken charcoal to every barrow
load.

The seed should have been sown about October
the first and potted on as before. By the first of
November the plants should be strong enough to plant
out. Give all the light possible by keeping the glass
clean, keep the paths well damped down ; except on
bright days very little syringing will be needed.
Fumigate and dust with sulphur as advised before.

Frame Culture. — When planted in frames the plants
should be near the glass and the fermenting material
will supply the warmth. This should consist of fresh
leaves and long stable litter in equal proportions. Well
mix and turn every day for a fortnight before making
up the hot-bed material, and after the frames have been
placed thereon and a gentle heat is assured, place the
compost along in a ridge and peg down the plants after
planting. Ventilate in the morning, syringe and shut
up early in the afternoon. Keep the growths well
regulated and do not allow the fruits to stop on the
plants after they are fit for cutting.

LEEKS 175

Should any sign of distress show, top dress with
loam and well-rotted manure and dust the surface
occasionally with Clay's or ichthemic guano. Mr.
Beckett says : " I have paid a good deal of attention
trying to improve existing varieties with the result
that the variety I raised and now being sent out under
the name of Ideal is to my mind the most useful and
perfect Cucumber I have grown. Lockie's Perfection
is also a splendid variety for winter use, but hardly
long enough."

LEEKS.

It must not be assumed that the magnificent
specimens sometimes staged are brought to such per-
fection without a considerable amount of trouble and
forethought ; indeed, few vegetables cultivated for
exhibition require more attention to bring them to
such a high standard of excellence. For some reason
or another, our northern friends generally excel in
their culture, this being no doubt due to their better
knowledge of the Leek's requirements, but at the
same time when valuable prizes are offered in open
competition the southern growers of late years have
not been far behind, and in one or two notable in-
stances have proved victorious.

Leeks are generally shown six together, and these
should be as alike both in length of blanched stem
and circumference as it is possible to get them. The
blanched part should be of the same thickness through-
out, with no sign of bulbing at the bottom. Many

1 76 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

growers attach too much importance to the length
the Leek is blanched. This is a mistake, as it does
not denote any special culture. A fair length is from
fifteen inches to eighteen inches, and each should
measure from eight inches to nine inches round. Re-
ject any that show the slightest indication to throw a
flower spike. All the rootlets and flag should be left
on, and the blanched part be as white as is possible to
get it. For early shows make the first sowing of seed
early in January in a compost similar to that advised
for Onions. In this case it is better to sow the seed
in well-drained three-inch pots, the soil being made
only moderately firm. Place a few seeds in the centre
of the pots, cover to the depth of about half an inch,
and thoroughly water in. Place the pots in a gentle
heat, from 50° to 55°, keeping them near the glass,
and carefully avoid overwatering. Remove all except
the strongest and most vigorous plant in each pot,
while frequent dampings overhead are very beneficial
at this stage of their culture. Immediately the pots
are well filled with roots, shift on into six-inch pots,
adding a six-inch potful of bone-meal to every half
bushel of compost made up in the first instance. Pot
fairly deep and press the soil lightly about the roots.
Grow on in a genial temperature, and shorten back
the tips of the leaves once a fortnight. Gradually
harden off in a cold frame, and by the middle of April
they should be ready for planting out.

The trenches should be eighteen inches wide, two
feet deep, and the bottom well broken up with a fork.

LEEKS 177

On this place four inches of half-rotted cow manure,
filling up the remainder of the trench with a mixture
of good fibrous loam, leaf soil, old Mushroom bed
manure and road scrapings in equal parts, with a free
sprinkling of finely sifted mortar rubbish and bone-
meal. This will make an ideal mixture for them.
Put out the plants fifteen inches apart in single lines,
disturbing the roots as little as possible and pressing
the soil only moderately firm. Give a good watering
afterwards, and if the weather is rough and stormy
shelter must be provided. Damp over frequently in
dry weather, and do everything possible to give the
plants a good start.

Unlike Celery and most other things which require
blanching, the Leek must be drawn up and blanched
in its early stages of growth, as it is quite impossible
to do so with any success after the growth is made.
Ten days after planting commence the operation and
use brown paper collars or stiff brown paper, the former
for preference. They can generally be purchased at a
cheap rate from the various seed houses. A small stick
should be placed on each side of the collars to prevent
their blowing about. Water freely once a week, and
apply a small quantity of some good artificial manure,
say, about a dessertspoonful to each plant.

As the heart appears above the paper collar this
may be drawn up until the desired height is reached,
placing a little fine soil round the base of the plant.
A month later zinc collars nine inches long, and suffi-
ciently large to avoid injuring the plant, and soldered

12

1 78 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

together, should be placed over the paper collars, and
these secured in position by a small quantity of earth.
Later on add similar pieces of zinc, placing them on
the top of the first one and adding more soil. Keep
the plants well watered still, and at every third appli-
cation apply liquid manure. Gradually earth up until
the top of the zinc collar is almost reached, but ex-
treme care should be taken that not even the slightest
particle of soil finds its way to the heart of the plant
or this will wash down and do much to mar the ap-
pearance of the specimens. When lifting Leeks, first
carefully remove the soil with a spade, so that they are
not bruised or injured. Withdraw the pieces of zinc
by holding the leaves with one hand and drawing the
cylinders over the top with the other. Then lift with
a fork with as many roots as possible. Tie the foliage
in two or three places with raffia to prevent the leaves
splitting, and wash thoroughly, carefully removing only
the outer skins. Let them drain head downwards and
keep covered with a clean linen cloth until ready for
packing. Tie a narrow piece of white tape round at
the top of the blanched part, when they should be care-
fully wrapped up in soft white paper. Leeks are pre-
sented on the exhibition stage in many ways, but they
are best on a black varnished board and in an almost
upright position.

ONIONS.

Few vegetables, especially from an exhibition point
of view, have been more improved during the last

ONIONS

179

few years than the Onion. It now forms one of the
most important and interesting subjects at all our
vegetable exhibitions, and no collection of vegetables
at any season of the year is complete unless a dish is
included. Consequently all interested in the pro-
duction of high-class vegetables must endeavour to
produce the finest specimens. Fortunately Onions are
not fastidious as to soil or position. Any one with a
garden and who is prepared to take the necessary
trouble can excel in their culture.

Preparation of the land is unquestionably the first
and most important part of Onion culture, and with-
out it first-class specimens are impossible. Select an
open sunny position for the site, bearing in mind that,
unlike most other crops, it is not at all necessary to
change the ground, but on the contrary, as far as Mr.
Beckett's experience goes, better results will be got by
utilising the same ground annually. Mr. Beckett
writes : "The best bulbs I have yet produced were those
of 1901 on ground upon which our large Onions had
been grown for the last seventeen years. The ground
must be thoroughly trenched to the depth of at least
three feet, the subsoil well broken up, and the bottom
spit brought to the surface each year. I regard this
as of the utmost importance. The time at which the
trenching should take place depends on the soil one
has to deal with. A light soil should be so treated
as early in the autumn as circumstances will permit,
but that of a stiff retentive nature will be better left
alone until February."

i8o VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

It is quite safe to say that hardly too much farm-
yard manure can be given when trenching. The long-
est should be placed quite at the bottom of the trench,
and the shorter and more decayed in the centre. In
the course of trenching, no matter at what season,
always leave the surface rough so that as much of the
soil as possible will receive the full benefit of the
weather. Immediately it is finished apply a good
dressing of soot, and in the case of stiff wet soil strew
the surface with fine mortar rubbish, road grit and
burnt garden refuse, all of which will prove beneficial.
It may be thus left until the early days of April. It
should then be forked over to the depth of eight inches
and made very fine — choosing good weather for the
purpose — when another dressing of soot and some
approved patent manure should be given. Afterwards
rake over, leaving the surface quite fine and level.

The beds should be marked out ten feet in width,
allowing a good broad alley, sufficiently wide to walk
between comfortably for watering and giving the
necessary attention. Mark out the rows about fifteen
inches apart, and allow a distance of one foot from
plant to plant. The plants should have been brought
forward properly hardened off and ready for trans-
planting to their permanent positions as early in the
month of April as the weather will permit ; lift with
a garden trowel, plant firmly, and always use light
boards for walking on.

Raising Summer Onions. — It is first of all important
to get a trustworthy strain, for without it success is

ONIONS 181

impossible, and to secure this end it is well always to
save one's own seed from a few selected bulbs. Mr.
Beckett writes : "I do not for one moment wish to
infer that good seed cannot be purchased, as many of
our leading seedsmen take great care to select stocks,
and good results frequently follow, but my contention
is that a bird in the hand is worth two or three in the
bush.

" With regard to the variety, I know nothing to
compare with Ailsa Craig, and my opinion is that
when at its best it represents a typical Onion, which
will be for many years hard to beat. The seed should
be sown for all southern districts early in January, and
for the more northern parts at the end of the month
or early in February in boxes two feet long, one foot
wide, and four and a half inches deep. Give proper
drainage and cover it with pieces of fibrous loam."

A suitable compost will consist of two parts good
fibrous loam, one part spent Mushroom bed material,
one part well-decayed leaf soil, adding to these in-
gredients sufficient coarse sand to keep the whole porous.
This should be well mixed and passed through a quarter-
inch-mesh sieve, afterwards filling the boxes to within
half an inch of the top. Make the compost thoroughly
firm, when the seed may be sown thinly. Add suffi-
cient soil just to cover the seed, which should be pressed
down firmly with a piece of board and well watered
in with a fine rose. The most suitable place for raising
the plants is an early vinery or peach house just started,
but a light position in the greenhouse will also answer,

1 82 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

or, failing this, a frame or pit ; over-forcing must be
guarded against at all stages of the growth under glass.
Immediately the young plants can be safely handled
transfer them to other boxes, using the same kind of
mixture, with the addition of a six-inch potful of
bone-meal to every bushel. Use a small-pointed stick
for lifting the seedlings, and dibble them in three inches
apart, making them quite firm. Carry out this opera-
tion in the same temperature in which they are grow-
ing, as a check at this stage will have serious effects.
Maintain a temperature of 55° to 60°, according to the
weather, place near the glass, syringe frequently, and
shade for a few days in bright weather, encouraging
a sturdy growth in every way. After the plants have
made a good start transfer them to a pit near the glass,
syringe morning and afternoon, and ventilate freely
whenever the weather is suitable. Finally, harden off
in cold frames before planting out, and by this time the
lights may be entirely removed, except in rough and
stormy weather.

Management in the Of en. — As mentioned before,
the Onions should be ready for planting out early in
April, the soil being made very firm about the base
and thoroughly watered. Until established the newly
planted Onions receive much benefit by careful syring-
ing for a few weeks several times during the day in
bright weather. Stir the surface slightly between the
rows with a Dutch hoe, and afterwards give a good
mulching of sifted horse manure to the depth of two
inches. About every ten days apply a dusting of soot

ONIONS 183

and also a good patent manure, choosing showery
weather as far as possible, and the best part of the day
is late afternoon.

The Onion fly is sometimes troublesome, but chiefly
affects plants raised outside ; it is, however, always
well to have a few plants in three-inch pots to make
good any failures, or the appearance of the bed will be
spoilt. Mildew should be dealt with immediately it
is seen. Cut off, remove and burn every affected
piece, and to prevent the disease from spreading dust
thoroughly with slaked lime and black sulphur fre-
quently. Keep the beds free from weeds, and in dry
weather give thorough soakings of water, while at
every other watering drainings from the farmyard will
prove of much assistance. This may be continued
until about the middle of August when growth should
be practically completed. Complaints are frequent
about the keeping qualities of these large specimens.
When allowed to remain too long on the ground and
roughly handled during lifting they decay quickly.
They must not be bruised. When harvested early
and carefully handled complaints should be few about
premature decay. In the first place, lift partially with
a small hand fork all the most shapely and promising
bulbs, as this assists ripening and prevents splitting in
wet weather. Many of the finest specimens are spoilt
through neglect of this. Select a fine day for lifting
the crop. In finishing the ripening off it is imperative
to keep the bulbs dry, and for this purpose place them
in boxes to hold about a dozen, and half fill the boxes

184 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

with wood wool for them to rest upon. By so doing
advantage may be taken of sunny weather to expose
them, placing them safely under cover at night. A
cool airy vinery or even cold frames are suitable places
on wet days, turning the bulbs daily, so that every part
is thoroughly exposed and ripened. Finally, clean
them by removing all loose skins, paring off the roots
neatly, and shortening the tops, leaving about six
inches, which should be neatly bent over and tied
with fine twine. Store in a cool dry airy room, and
allow them to rest on a bed of soft wood wool.

Autumn Varieties. — Prepare ground for this crop
in the same way as for the former. Make two sowings,
the first about 2oth August, and another ten days later,
choosing a southern site for the latter sowing. Before
sowing give the bed a good dressing of soot and wood
ashes, and sow thinly in shallow drills nine inches apart.
Make thoroughly firm, rake down fine and level, hoe
frequently to keep down weeds, and little further at-
tention will be needed before spring. Being practically
hardy the earlier the plants are transplanted to the
prepared ground the better. Lift the strongest and
best plants with a garden trowel, plant with the same,
and treat exactly as advised for the summer crop.
Autumn-sown Onions are indispensable for spring and
summer shows, and when well grown and staged stand
one in good stead in close competition in a collection
of vegetables. No attempt should be made to ripen
these off except for late shows, and to be seen at their
best they should be faced up and neatly garnished

PARSNIPS 185

with Parsley. One of the best varieties for this pur-
pose is White Leviathan, but it is not a good keeper.
Other good varieties are Blood Red and Lemon Rocca.

PARSNIPS.

When clean roots free from blemish, of moderate
length, and tapering regularly to a point, are staged
at the autumn shows, they are undoubtedly both at-
tractive and serviceable. To ensure exhibition roots,
holes must be bored the same as advised for Carrots
and filled in with a compost consisting of loam, road
grit and well-decayed leaf soil in equal proportions,
and to every barrow load add one peck of wood ashes.
The whole should be thoroughly mixed and passed
through a sieve as in other instances.

The holes should be bored five feet deep with a
space of twenty inches between each while the distance
between the rows should be two feet. Fill the holes
with the prepared compost and press firmly with a
stick, and when ready to sow the seed make a hole in
the centre of the compost to the depth of an inch and
a half, placing four or five seeds in each. Cover with
fine road sand and when the seedlings are large enough
thin out, leaving the strongest plant in the centre.
Dust the plants once a week with soot and keep the
Dutch hoe constantly at work. When Parsnips are
required for exhibition lift them carefully the day
before the show, cut off any small rootlets and clean
in the same way as advised for Carrots. Six specimens

1 86 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

are generally staged, all of which should be alike and
arranged neatly on a bed of Parsley, placing them
as follows : three at the bottom, two next, and one
on the top.

Parsnips lose colour and freshness after they have
been shown once, therefore prepare fresh roots for
each exhibition. The Student, Hollow Crown and
Tender and True are all trustworthy varieties.

PEAS.

Exhibition pods of the highest excellence can only
be obtained when the best known methods of culture
are practised. Unquestionably the most important
of all is the preparation of the land. Fortunately
Peas, like many other vegetables, are not over fas-
tidious as to the soil, provided, of course, it is brought
under a proper system of cultivation. Deep tillage
is important, and it is surprising to what a depth the
roots will penetrate in search of food and moisture
during hot and dry weather, providing, of course, the
soil is in a favourable condition. The land should
be thoroughly trenched to the depth of three feet six
inches during winter and given heavy dressings of
manure. That which is quite green from the farm-
yard should be placed at the bottom, and in the centre
of the work that in a more advanced state of decom-
position. On stiff retentive land anything with a
tendency to render it more porous should be worked
in, for instance, such as burnt garden refuse, mortar

PEAS 187

rubble, and road scrapings, and immediately the trench-
ing is finished a small surface dressing of soot and
lime in equal proportions should be applied. The
land should then be in splendid condition for receiving
the seeds or plants when the season comes round.
As a rule it is fairly easy to get good dishes of Peas
during June and the early part of July, but after that
date, except in the northern districts, they are more
difficult to obtain. At the same time it is practically
useless to put up a collection of vegetables unless these
are included, so that strenuous efforts should be made
toobtain them, and deep trenches should be prepared
for these late additions in the same way as for Celery.
Select suitable varieties, sow the seed thinly at the
proper dates, and have the roots well under control ;
the trenches are a means of supplying both liquid
manure and clear water in sufficient quantities to
maintain the plants in strong growth. A good
mulching of half-decayed manure, however, should
be placed about them. Mildew generally plays sad
havoc with all the later sowings of Peas, this result-
ing from dryness at the root. For all early shows
raising the plants in boxes and transplanting is pre-
ferable, and much better results are obtained in this
way, providing, of course, the plants receive proper
attention during their growth before planting out. In
no case must the plants be forced, but encouraged to
make a sturdy and quick growth, and be thoroughly
hardened before placing in their open quarters. This
plan has many advantages over sowing in the open.

1 88 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

The earlier sowings should be made under glass during
February and March, using boxes two feet long, one
foot wide, and four and a half inches deep, and make
provision for good drainage.

The best compost consists of two parts good loam,
one part rotten leaf soil, and one part spent Mush-
room bed material. Well mix and cover the crocks
with the rougher parts of the soil. The boxes should
be three-parts filled and the compost made moderately
firm. Sow the seed evenly all over, leaving them
about one inch apart, and cover with half an inch of
the finer soil, giving afterwards a thorough watering.
A gentle heat is all that is required, a vinery or green-
house answering admirably. As soon as the seedlings
are well above the soil remove the boxes to a cold
frame or other glass structure where a sturdy growth
is possible. Gradually admit air, thus hardening them
off until they can be placed out of doors in an open
yet protected situation before planting. Make the
first sowing towards the middle of February, continu-
ing at intervals of a fortnight for succession. Each
plant should be lifted with a small hand fork. Plant
double lines, allowing three inches between the plants
and four inches between the lines. Stake and protect
the plants with nets at the same time, and give a dust-
ing of fine cinder ashes as a check to slugs. If the
weather be fine when planting water in freely. Later
sowings should be made in the open and the seed
dibbled in twice as thickly as it is required, thinning
out when the plants are sufficiently advanced, and

SAVOYS 189

staking at a later period. As soon as the third flower
can be seen pinch out the points of the growths, re-
move the garden netting, and apply a good mulching
of manure. All badly formed pods should be taken
away and moderate thinning practised at all times.

The pods of exhibition Peas should be large, well
filled, of a good colour, and free from rust, while the
seeds should be of fair size, fresh, and of good colour,
quality and appearance. For the first sowing out-
doors commence the first week in April, while the last
should not be made later than the first week in June.
Rows of dwarf Peas should be six feet apart, and the
taller kinds about eight feet.

For the earlier sowings choose Early Morn, a much
improved form of Gradus, for mid-season varieties
Duke of Albany, Quite Content, Alderman and
Edwin Beckett, and for the latest sowings Autocrat.
Other good late Peas are Ne Plus Ultra, The Gladstone
and Masterpiece.

SAVOYS.

These are not important for exhibition but are often
shown in large quantities as single dishes, and of course
must be included in an unlimited collection. Of their
value in winter one need not write, but the seed is often
sown and the seedlings are planted out much too early
to be of real service.

After the heads have been touched by frost, the
flavour is much improved. As Savoys are seldom re-

1 90 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

quired before the winter months, they are of little
value before then, as plenty of other green vegetables
are generally available before them. Two sowings
should always be made, the first with the usual winter
greens and the second the first week in May. When
the space at command is limited, Savoys may be well
grown if planted between early Potatoes. They are
not particular as to soil, and no manure need be used
when the land is good. Put the plants in with a crow-
bar, on ground previously occupied with Peas, Broad
Beans or a similar crop, and digging is not required.

Allow twenty-two inches between the plants and
two feet between the rows. Thoroughly water in and
keep the ground well stirred with the hoe.

Plant the later sowings on deeply dug ground with
a little manure worked in.

Carter's Giant Green, Sutton's Perfection and
Drumhead are excellent, the latter perhaps a little
coarse, but extremely valuable in severe weather on
account of its hardiness. For small gardens Tom
Thumb is a well-flavoured, desirable variety and
should be always planted eighteen inches apart. Ex-
hibition Savoys should be of medium size according
to the variety, perfectly firm and as much alike as
possible, both in size and in shape.

TOMATOES.

This useful vegetable or fruit, whichever one is
pleased to call it, is entitled to a place in all collections

TOMATOES 191

at any season of the year, and when presented in per-
fection forms a pleasing addition to the exhibit, but
unquestionably the fruits must be faultless to obtain
the maximum number of points, as they are easily
produced when plenty of glass is at command com-
pared with many other vegetables.

The first sowing of seed should be made early in
January in a genial temperature and a light sandy
compost. The seed will germinate quickly and when
this has occurred place the seed pan without delay on
a shelf near the glass.

As the third leaf is forming pot off singly into
thumb pots using a compost of one part loam, three
parts leaf mould, with a liberal quantity of silver sand
and mix the whole well together.

Warm the soil to the same temperature as the
house, and after potting thoroughly water in, while
the water must be of the same temperature as the
structure in which the plants are growing. Too
much moisture both at the roots and overhead is a
mistake.

The plants will subsequently require potting on
into sixties, then into thirty-twos, and finally into the
pots in which they are to fruit.

The soil for the final potting should consist of
three parts loam, one part thoroughly rotten manure,
with sufficient coarse sand or road grit to keep the
whole porous. Crock the pots carefully and pot
firmly.

The plants can either be trained to stout stakes

1 92 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

inserted in the pots or to a trellis near the glass,
giving them all the light possible and encouraging a
sturdy growth. The single stem method is preferable,
and keep the lateral growths rubbed out.

To enable the plants to make satisfactory progress
and the pollen to develop freely a buoyant atmosphere
must be maintained. Examine the flowers about the
middle of the day, slightly tapping the stems with a
hazel twig to distribute the pollen to ensure a prolific
crop. When the plants are well set with fruit, give
manure water at every other watering, farmyard
drainings being preferable. At the end of April or
May ripe fruits may be expected.

For successional crops later sowings should be
made during February, March and April and a cool
house or brick pit will give splendid returns through
the summer and early autumn if the plants are care-
fully tended and the same rule followed as for the
earlier crop.

It is of great importance to make a careful selec-
tion of varieties, among the best being Sunrise,
Best of All and Winter Beauty. These are red-
skinned varieties of splendid form.

A good yellow-skinned variety is Golden Jubilee.

Perfect Tomatoes should be from medium to
large in size, skins clear and unbroken, flesh ripe and
solid, and the fruits carefully cut and laid on some
soft material in a warm dry room after they are well
coloured. For exhibition they never look better than
when shown on clean cotton wool.

TURNIPS 193

TURNIPS.

Small sowings should be made frequently from the
beginning of March until the middle of September on
land that has been deeply broken up and manured the
previous season. The ground should first be raked
down with a wooden rake, and afterwards with an
iron one, leaving the surface well broken up and
friable.

Whatever the ground is that has to be dealt with,
make drills about an inch deeper than is considered
necessary for the seed sowing, and into these place a
compost of the old soil from the potting bench, with
a peck each of soot, lime and wood ashes added to
every barrow load. Mix the whole thoroughly and
pass through a fine sieve. When the seed is sown
cover it with the same material. It will be neces-
sary to protect against birds, which are often very
troublesome. Garden netting should be stretched
over iron hoops, thus enabling the crop to be easily
thinned. This must be done as early as possible.
Copious supplies of water should be given in dry
weather, also a dusting of wood ashes and artificial
manure every week, and a dressing of soot once a
fortnight. Perfect Turnips ought to be of medium
size with small tap roots, clean skin and crisp and
juicy flesh.

When preparing roots for exhibition soak them for
half an hour and remove all dirt with a sponge, giving
two or three more washings to make them quite clean.

13

i94 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

For early shows sow seed on a south border of Early
Red and White Milan about the middle of February.
For later use Snowball and Jersey Lily are excellent,
the latter being very handsome and of delicious
flavour.

Turnips when in perfect condition frequently
prove invaluable to the exhibitor of a collection of
vegetables. They should always be included in a
collection of twelve dishes, and often when eight or
nine only are required. A valuable turnip for May
shows is a greatly improved form of Jersey Navet
named Carter's Forcing, which, if sown at intervals
during March in cold frames, produces splendid roots
of the best quality.

VEGETABLE MARROWS.

Vegetable Marrows are not so largely grown for
early shows or for general use as they deserve to be.
A good dish during May and June should carry great
weight, and they may be produced in better condition
under glass than from the open garden. A good type
of Moore's Cream when at its best is hard to beat, and
it is also very prolific. Pen-y-byd is very distinct
and of excellent quality. Prince Albert is the best
green variety. The seeds should be sown the first
week in February singly in small sixty-sized pots in
heat and again in the middle, and at the end of the
same month ; place the pots in a light position as near
the glass as possible to encourage a sturdy growth, and

VEGETABLE MARROWS 195

when ready pot on into thirty-two-sized pots in a
porous soil and support each plant with a stake. For
the earliest cutting a few should be grown in ten-inch
pots in a temperature not exceeding 70° with sun heat,
and trained up to the lightest position in the house.
Very little bottom heat will be required. Stop the
principal growths and fertilise in the same way as for
Melons.

For frame culture prepare a mild hot-bed com-
posed chiefly of leaves on which the frames should be
placed.

As the heat is on the decline place the soil con-
sisting of loam, leaf soil and road scrapings in the
frame, and leave space for top dressing, warm the
soil and turn out the plants carefully. Give air freely
on all favourable occasions, but avoid cutting winds
and shut up early in the afternoon. Fertilise in the
middle of the day and treat in the same way as for
Cucumbers. As soon as it is safe to do so, the frames
may be removed altogether, and the plants will be
bearing long before those grown in the ordinary way.
Keep them well supplied with water and give an oc-
casional dose of artificial manure ; the plants will then
continue to bear until late in the autumn.

For the general crop make a sowing the second
week in April, and where no heat is available, for the
later supplies, another the first week in May. It will
not be safe to plant out before the end of May unless
means are at hand for protecting them. Ordinary
hand-lights are most suitable, and when planting allow

196 VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

a distance of three feet between each ; give therri a little
fresh loam and leaf soil for a start.

Stop and peg the plants down for a week or two
and give copious supplies of water.

Unsightly heaps and corners can be covered with
Marrows which have a pleasing effect.

CHAPTER VI.

SALADS.

THE cultivation of Salads is not the least important of a
gardener's duties, for these in many cases are required
for daily consumption the whole year round. Of
Salads Lettuce may be said to be the most important
so this shall be first considered. By growing suitable
varieties of both Cos and Cabbage, and if proper ac-
commodation is provided, there should be no difficulty
in obtaining Lettuce throughout the greater part of
the year. The best qualities the Lettuce can have are,
in spring the property of turning in quickly, in summer
to be slow in running to seed, the least susceptible to
damp in autumn and winter, and hardiness. In order
to maintain a continued supply of Lettuce seed should
be sown at intervals from January to September.
In January sow the seed in boxes and place these near
the glass in a gentle heat ; if the cultivation of Lettuce
is practised upon a large scale, instead of sowing in
boxes, sow either upon the surface soil of a pit under
which runs a hot-water pipe, or upon six inches of soil
resting upon a mild hot-bed composed of two parts
leaves and one of stable manure, in a cold frame.

From the time the seedlings appear they should be
197

198 SALADS

grown sturdily, and must experience no check ; venti-
late carefully according to the state of the weather, and
so long as there is any likelihood of frost cover the
frame every night with mats.

The variety selected will depend upon whether the
cultivator prefers a Cabbage or Cos Lettuce ; the former
turns in and is ready for use more quickly than the
latter. An excellent Cabbage Lettuce for the early
sowing is Golden Queen, a sort that is rather under
medium size with smooth green leaves. It forms
solid, crisp and tender hearts.

Plants from the early sowing, after being well
hardened off, may be planted out on a south border,
placing them about eight inches apart. Instead of
putting them out in this manner they may be dibbled
in a rather rich and light soil in a warm frame, about
seven inches from each other. Grown thus Lettuces
of the most delicious flavour and finest texture are
obtained. Should cold cutting winds prevail after
placing the young plants outside, as above mentioned,
and in early spring they frequently do, temporary pro-
tection, furnished by means of mats or branches of
laurel one foot or two feet long, must be given. Place
these branches in the ground between the plants all
over the bed, and there let them remain until the
Lettuces are established.

If a Cos variety is required Veitch's Superb White, a
selection from Paris White, is excellent. Growing as
it does larger than Golden Queen, this variety must be
placed at least two inches further apart when planted out.

LETTUCE 199

About the first week in March a sowing may be
made out of doors on a south border. Sow thinly so
that the seedlings may have plenty of room to properly
develop. Whether the sowing is made a few days
sooner or later is not material, but take the first op-
portunity when the ground is in a suitable state, i.e.,
when it can be trodden or raked without its adhering
to either one's boots or the rake.

After sowing fix a net over the bed, keeping it a
foot or more above the soil by means of sticks. The
two varieties recommended above for sowing under
glass in January may be sown in early March outside,
with, in addition, the Cabbage Lettuce New York.
This variety will stand a long time in hot weather
without running to seed, and by the time the plants
from early sowings are ready for cutting, hot weather
is not unusual.

Holborn Standard, another Cabbage Lettuce, much
resembles New York, except that it is a lighter green :
both varieties are large with crinkled leaves, and form
large tender and crisp heads of the first quality. These
attributes considered, together with the fact that they
do not easily run to seed, mark them as the best of
summer Cabbage Lettuce.

Veitch's Chelsea Gem is also a good Cabbage variety
for summer, of medium size with smooth leaves.

Of Cos varieties for summer, Mammoth White
is, taking all things into consideration, as good as
any, though it is closely followed in point of merit
by White Cos.

200 SALADS

Whether one or more of these summer Lettuces is
grown, frequent sowings are necessary to maintain an
uninterrupted supply. As soon as the seedlings from
the first sowing out of doors commence to form the
first rough leaf second sowings should be made, and
when the resulting seedlings have reached a similar
stage, sow again and so on to the end of the season.
During the months of May, June and July sow the
seeds thinly in drills on a north border, making the
drills twelve inches apart. At the end of June dis-
continue sowing the summer varieties, with the excep-
tion of Mammoth White, which is sown once more
early in July. There are also sown Sugarloaf, Grosse
Parisienne and Lee's Immense Hardy Cabbage. The
first and last named are of medium size and the French
variety is large ; all are valuable for autumn use. These
three varieties are selected for the second sowing in
July, which, together with the subsequent sowings, is
larger than those made previously, so as to provide
a plentiful supply of plants for planting out for the
autumn and winter supplies. Early in September the
last sowing of the season is made on a south border,
the varieties used being Sugarloaf, Lee's Immense
Hardy, Bath or Brown Cos, and a good summer
Cabbage variety such as Perfect Gem or All the Year
Round. The first three mentioned are quite hardy,
the last two are more tender, as also are some others
that are good for summer use, although they survive
the winter.

As soon as large enough the best plants from the

LETTUCE 201

September sowing should be planted out on a south
border there to remain during the winter. They will
be ready for cutting during late April and May.
Brown Cos is at that season excellent, tender, crisp
and sweet. The smaller plants are left in the seed
bed throughout the winter. Should there be in-
sufficient plants from the last sowing out of doors,
sow again in October in a cold frame, leaving the
plants there during the winter, and plant them out in
the spring.

Although some varieties of Lettuce are quite hardy
when the plants are small, they are much more tender
when fully grown and blanched. In the month of
October therefore some provision should be made to
protect them from frost.

Those that are fully grown and are ready for use
may be protected by means of mats supported by rods
that are attached to short stakes driven into the
ground. When there is a likelihood of frost put on
the mats at night and remove them in the morning.

The best protection that can be given to autumn
and winter Lettuce is to lift those that are well
developed (excepting those for immediate use) and
plant them in a cold frame or a pit close together
but without being crowded.

In lifting, care should be taken to preserve as
many roots as possible ; the plants ought also to be
graded into two or three sizes, so that when they are
cut the pit may be cleared by commencing at one end
and proceeding uninterruptedly. This practice admits

202 SALADS

of others being brought in from outside that have
developed since the first lot of plants was lifted.

Another method of protecting the Lettuces is to
place frames over them as they are growing : rough
three-light frames are very useful for this purpose.
Mats and long stable litter should be used for cover-
ing at night, taking care to place plenty of the litter
around the sides of the frame.

During mild weather draw the lights off, tilting
them at the back instead when it rains. Ventilate every
day when the temperature is above freezing point.

From a sowing made late in the month of August
of both Cabbage and Cos varieties, part of a frame or
cold pit may be planted : they will provide excellent
Lettuce by April.

The plants raised from seed in September and put
out on a south border should, in January, be planted
in a heated pit in soil resting upon a mild hot-bed.
These quickly develop into Lettuces of the best quality.
Cabbage varieties are best suited for this treatment.

Plants from a sowing made in January, upon a hot-
bed, will succeed the first early crop sown in the autumn.

Planting. — The distance apart at which Lettuces
should be planted depends upon what size they attain
when fully grown. Small-growing varieties may be
planted eight inches distant from each other, those of
medium size at ten inches and the larger ones twelve
inches apart.

It is necessary to tie some Cos varieties in order to
cause them to blanch, and this should be done a fort-

ENDIVE 203

night before cutting. Cabbage varieties should not
need tying, those that do require it we do not think
worth growing.

To obtain the best Lettuce, well cultivated, rich
ground is essential. Liberal and frequent waterings
are also necessary during hot and dry weather. At
no time of the year, whether under glass or out of
doors, must the soil be allowed to become dry.

Insect Pests. — Slugs are frequently troublesome ; as
soon as the seedlings appear above ground they often
eat them off. We know of no better method of check-
ing their ravages than by dusting over the seedlings
with freshly slaked lime. This is done preferably
early in the morning. During showery weather it
may be necessary to do this almost daily.

The frequent use of the hoe is an important factor
in the successful cultivation of the Lettuce.

ENDIVE.

As a Salad, Endive ranks next in importance to
Lettuce ; it provides a welcome change from the latter,
and assists to maintain the supply of Salads well into
the winter. The best varieties are Round-leaved Bata-
vian and Green Curled. Successive sowings may be
made from June to August. Give the plants the same
treatment as the Lettuce received, planting as far apart
as recommended for the largest Lettuce. Both the
above-mentioned varieties must be tied to enable them
to be blanched perfectly.

204 SALADS

CHICORY

Is a good Salad for use in January and February
when Lettuce is scarce. It has, however, a bitter
taste which many do not care for. May is the most
suitable time to sow Chicory. Make the drills
fifteen inches apart in which the seed is sown, and sub-
sequently thin the seedlings to six inches apart. The
roots are finally lifted and forced in a dark structure,
such as the Mushroom house, in a similar manner as
is adopted for Seakale.

CORN SALAD OR LAMB'S LETTUCE.

Corn Salad or Lamb's Lettuce makes a welcome
addition to the list of Salads, for it is also in season when
others are scarce, viz., during February and March.
Sow in drills one foot apart in June, and when the seed-
lings are well through the soil thin them out to four
inches apart. Corn Salad is quite hardy.

CELERY

Also makes a splendid winter Salad either alone
with the usual herbs or in a mixed Salad. In pre-
paring it cut the blanched leaf-stalks across in small
pieces.

TOMATOES

Provide a delicious and favourite Salad ; one may
use them alone or in a mixed Salad* Their increased

HERBS 205

utility and popularity are accounted for by the fact
that they may be had throughout the greater part of
the year.

Other Salads are Cucumbers, Radishes, Mustard
and Cress, Water Cress, Celeriac, Stachys, French
Beans, etc. Indeed there are few vegetables that are
not suitable for the Salad bowl.

Salads are very wholesome ; they retain properties
that are lost by other cooked vegetables. Lettuce and
Endive should not be washed if it is at all possible to
remove the dirt from them by means of a dry cloth.

HERBS

Play an important part in flavouring Salads.
Tarragon is in demand every day of the year ; from
April to October the supply is provided by plants
grown outside and from October to April by forcing.
To be able to maintain an uninterrupted supply a
fresh plantation of young plants should be made every
spring : plenty of roots will then be available for
forcing. The soil for the cultivation of Tarragon
should be light ; if it is at all heavy add spent Mush-
room bed manure and burnt earth. This herb is
increased by division of the roots. The best roots for
forcing are those two years old, as they are then of a
convenient size for placing in pots or boxes. Early
October is the best time of the year to lift them.

CHAPTER VII.

VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES.
CABBAGE MOTH (Mamestra bras sic <e}.

THE Cabbage Moth (A) is of a rich brown, the upper
wings with a decided tinge of grey and variously marked
with black streaks and circular lines ; the lower wings
are brown and dirty-white at the base.

The moth lays her eggs on the leaves of Cabbages,
Savoys, etc., and the caterpillars hatch in a few days
and immediately begin to feed. At first they are usu-
ally green, but afterwards vary much in colour, some
being pale dingy green ; some green and black above,
but mostly of a dark colour with a kind of marbling,
more or less distinct on the back, the effect being
produced by a triangular mark containing two white
dots on each of their segments. When full-fed the
caterpillar (B) is upwards of an inch and a quarter in
length. On being disturbed it rolls itself into a tight
ring, and so remains until it supposes danger is over.
The caterpillars descend into the earth for change into
pupae or so-called chrysalids. The pupa-case (C) is
smooth and red-brown, and in this the pupa remains,
protected by earth, until the following summer, when

206

CABBAGE MOTH.

208 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

the moth comes out, sometimes in May but usually
later in the summer.

Attack by Cabbage Moth caterpillars occurs regu-
larly in the summer and autumn of each year, which
is not to be wondered at, for they feed on leafage of
many common plants, even such wildlings as the Dock,
and may be found in the flower garden on Dahlias,
Geraniums and Marigolds, also in fruit quarters, on
the Red Currant ; therefore the infection may easily
be due to outside influence. The attacks, however,
are most demonstrative on Cauliflowers, and on the
hearts of Cabbages and Savoys in the late summer
and autumn, for the caterpillars are very voracious,
feeding by day and night, and, what is worse, they spoil
with their excrement more than they eat. The excre-
ment from the caterpillars either remains in lumps
between the leaves, or spreads downwards in wet dirty
green matter. Besides, the caterpillars gnaw large
holes into the hearts of the Cauliflowers, Cabbages or
Savoys, and render the infested plant truly disgusting,
of which some faint idea may be seen in figure E.

Prevention. — The moth appears in May and June
and later, i. To capture them : (a) Fix a post in the
ground firmly and standing out about three feet, the
top being cut off square. Affix a wide tray, wooden
or metal, on the post and smear it inside with a
sticky substance, such as two parts resin and one part
sweet oil melted. Place a thin block of wood in the
centre of the tray, and on this stand a hurricane
lamp. Light it at dusk each night. The moths

CABBAGE MOTH 209

come to the light and are caught in the sticky matter.
(b) Take half a pound of sugar, dissolve it in beer,
and boil the mixture until the two substances are
thoroughly mixed. After dark fasten a bull's-eye
lantern on a belt, put a few spoonfuls of rum into the
beer and take a gauze net, usually called a butterfly net.
Mark all the convenient spots, such as patches of bare
walls and trunks of trees, and on these with a brush
bestrew the sugar and beer liberally within the circle
of light thrown by the lantern, and so on from station
to station, not using the treacle so thinly that it runs.
In half an hour examine the treacled patches, and the
moths will be so eagerly engaged upon their feast that
they may readily be captured or killed. Not only
upon the sugar will the moths be found, but sitting
on the neighbouring plants, walls, or even ground,
and the entomological net will be handy for capturing
them. Many garden foes beside Cabbage Moths like
treacle ; even a board painted with the sugared mixture
and placed in a room where the windows are open
will give a rich harvest of Cabbage Moths and that
means, if they are captured and killed, fewer cater-
pillars for preying on Cabbages and Savoys.

2. Where the Cabbage Moth caterpillar has been
much in evidence on the autumn Cabbage tribe crops,
the pupae or chrysalids will be turned up in great
numbers at the winter digging. These should be
collected into a basket and given to poultry or at once
destroyed. Fowls are particularly fond of the pupae,
and on an infested plot will even scratch for them.

14

210 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

However turning up and hand-picking is the most
certain process. Even forking the ground over at
intervals and collecting the chrysalids, or exposing
them on the surface to alternate cold and wet have a
good effect.

3. Dress the ground with gas lime fresh from gas
works as soon .as the infested crop has been cleared
at the rate of 70 Ib. per rod, and leave on the surface
and spread evenly a month or six weeks before digging
or ploughing in.

Remedies. — i . Hand-picking is the surest method.
It is astonishing how large an area can be got over in
a day by a person with a will and nimble ringers
boldly taking the caterpillars one by one or, where
thick, twos and threes, between the ringers and crush-
ing them, having handy, say at each end of long rows,
a pail or can of water wherewith to cleanse the hand.
Chicken-hearted persons are no good for contending
against the Cabbage Moth caterpillars, being afraid
to handle and destroy what will assuredly ruin the
Cabbage crop if let alone. Some children will search
for and pick the caterpillars from between the folds
of the Cabbage leaves, promptly placing them in a
vessel containing a little paraffin oil, and under due
supervision the Cabbage crops may be well and rapidly
cleared at small expense. It is very important to
attend to the hand-picking when the caterpillars first
appear and before any serious harm is done (D), or
they will very soon render the Cabbages or Savoys
quite useless.

CABBAGE MOTH 211

2. Note when the caterpillars are feeding, usually in
the early part of the day, and dispersed over the plants.
Then have boiling hot water ready, and with a watering
can with a fine rose sprinkle it over the caterpillars.
If held high up the hot water will fall on the cater-
pillars at a temperature of about 150°, and unless
applied excessively will not injure the plants while
cleansing them from the caterpillars. Every cater-
pillar within reach of hot water at a temperature of
130° to 135° will be killed, therefore the operator
must so apply the hot water as not to injure the
Cabbages by having it too hot, and yet have it hot
enough to kill the pests. Hot water deservedly
claims preference for freeing Brassicas from cater-
pillars.

3. Paraffin oil emulsion. This is readily made by
dissolving a pint of soft soap in a quart of soft water.
When dissolved remove from the fire, and while still
boiling hot add half a pint of paraffin oil and immedi-
ately churn the mixture with a small hand syringe.
In five minutes a perfect emulsion will be formed,
which should be diluted with ten times its volume
of water for use. Apply by means of a fine rose
watering can or a spraying apparatus. This pre-
paration has the disadvantage of tainting the heads
if applied to the fully developed plants, hence is
best used when the plants are young, or at least
a month should elapse after treatment before cutting
the Cabbages for use on account of the smell and
taint.

212 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

4. Carbolic acid emulsion. Made by dissolving
one quart of soft soap in a gallon of boiling water, into
which one pint of crude carbolic acid is then poured
and the whole stirred into an emulsion, in which
condition it will remain for a long time. For use
dilute one part of the emulsion with thirty parts of hot
water, stirring well and using at a temperature of 135°
by means of a knapsack sprayer. This preparation,
like paraffin oil emulsion, is best applied when the
plants are young. It is not advisable to apply it after
the plants have commenced to heart. The smell ap-
pears to deter the moths from depositing eggs in the
plants, and it also acts as a deterrent of the Cabbage
Fly, Phorbia brassicae. Spray at intervals of ten days
or a fortnight from the plants being set to their be-
ginning to head or heart.

5. Pyrethrum (insect or buhach) powder is ex-
cellent for killing common Cabbage caterpillars. It
should be fresh, and may be mixed with six or eight
times its bulk of flour, and dusted on the plants with
a dredger or bellows apparatus. Or the powder may
be mixed with water in the proportion of one ounce
to three, four or five gallons of water, sprinkling or
spraying upon the plants. The dusting or spraying
should be performed about once a week during the
time the worms are present, then they will cause little
or no trouble.

THE ILLUSTRATIONS REPRESENT THE CABBAGE MOTH AND ATTACK
ON SAVOY.

CLUB-ROOT, FINGER- AND-TOE 213

CLUB-ROOT, FINGER- AND-TOE (Plasmodiophora
brass ic<e\

The excrescences and malformations of Cabbage
and Turnip root-stems are well known to all culti-
vators as " anbury," " club-root/' and " finger-and-
toe ". It is not only that the roots are malformed
but their growth is hindered ; and as the plants are
usually attacked in their early stages, the crop is fre-
quently almost entirely ruined. The root is the part
most frequently attacked, but the pest also disturbs
the leaves, at least in the case of Cabbages, yet no
distortion occurs, as in the root. Cabbage plants
attacked by this slime-fungus are prevented from pro-
perly developing leaves and forming hearts. Affected
Broccoli and Cauliflowers produce small misshapen
heads, and sometimes only stunted leaves. In the case
of Turnips the roots are swollen and the bulb warted,
eventually rotting and emitting a disagreeable smell.
All Brassicse are liable to be infested by Plasmodio-
phora brassicas, and it occurs on Charlock and other
weeds belonging to the Order Cruciferae. It belongs
to the group of fungus-like organisms known as
Myxomycetes or Slime-Fungi, and the name Plas-
modiophora means the bearer of plasmodia, which
are masses of protoplasm with creeping, life-like
movement.

The disease is first contracted by spores present in
the soil, from which independent minute portions of
protoplasm escape under favourable conditions of

2i4 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

moisture and temperature. These move about by
means of thread-like appendages or cilia, and pro-
bably at first lead a saprophytic mode of life, living
upon organic matter in a state of decay or in solution
of rain water. After a time two or more of these
bodies unite together, then form plasmodia growths,
either in the soil or in the host-plant, entering this
by the root-hairs or through the cuticle. Once inside
a living cell the parasite forms a mass of protoplasm,
which increases and passes from one cell to another
devouring their contents. After vegetating for some
time and causing the infected cells to increase in size
and produce the swellings known as " club-root," the
plasmodium differentiates, and ultimately becomes re-
solved into many minute round spores, which on the
decay of the root are liberated in the soil. When
the spores are set free they probably germinate, and
form a plasmodium that exists as a saprophyte ready
to seize upon any plant root affording the essential
food, or remain quiescent and awake to active life in
the presence of a peculiar host-plant. On these points
nothing is known with certainty, though if Cabbage,
Turnips, or other allied plants are sown or planted in
soil on which diseased plants have been produced in
the previous season, or even two or three years pre-
viously, such plants will become diseased also.

Prevention. — From the nature of this infection
remedial measures can have only a palliative effect.
It would, however, be desirable to apply a good dress-
ing of lime when the first symptoms of the infection

CLUB-ROOT, FINGER-AND-TOE 215

are noticed, the lime, half a bushel per rod, eighty
bushels per acre, being applied as soon as slaked with
the smallest quantity of water necessary to cause it to
fall into an apparently dry powder, and work it into
the soil with hoes.

Lime (stone lime preferably, as it acts more power-
fully than that made from chalk) has been proved
frequently to be a preventive of club-root. It should
be applied hot to infected land and dug or ploughed in
to the depth of three or four inches. A dressing of
stone lime every eight or twelve years has secured
immunity from the disease, while where chalk lime
has been used the dressing must be repeated every
four, or at most eight years. Eighty bushels per
acre, half a bushel per rod, of quick lime is the proper
quantity. As the plants are most susceptible to the
disease shortly after germination, it is a good practice
to dress the land before sowing or planting with forty
bushels per acre, or half a bushel per rod, of hot lime,
particularly land liable to club-root. When a Brassica
crop is affected, this is usually sufficient to arrest the
disease.

In bad cases, and where procurable, gas lime, fresh
from gasworks, at the rate of two to four tons per
acre, quarter to half cwt. per rod, will be found more
efficacious than ordinary lime, broadcasting it evenly
after the diseased crop is cleared, or in autumn in
advance of preparing for cropping. Leave it on the
surface a month or six weeks before digging or plough-
ing in ; this has been found a complete cure and pre-

216 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

ventive of clubbing on infected land, thus enabling the
cultivators to grow Brassicas at frequent intervals —
almost yearly — upon the same soil, as the applica-
tions of gas lime, and also of quick lime, destroy the
germs of the disease in the soil.

From the nature of the disease it is simply solicit-
ing attack to sow or plant Cabbages, Turnips, etc., in
affected soil, hence it is imperative to disinfect such
soil, either with lime or gas lime, before the land is
again cropped with Brassicas.

As the slime-fungus requires an acid medium for
proper development, manures soaked with sulphuric
acid, such as superphosphate and dissolved bones, should
not be used, for the acidity, especially that of sulphur,
favours the spread of the disease.

Clean culture is also important. Never tolerate
such weeds as Charlock, Garlic, Mustard, Shepherd's
Purse, and other crucifers where cultivated plants of
the Order Cruciferas are grown, for they may render
the land foul, even when under other crops, and when
Cabbages, Turnips, etc., are sown or planted these
become infected.

All diseased plants should be collected and burned,
not throwing them on the manure heap to start the
disease anew, or even in a new locality where the
manure is applied. Too much care cannot be exer-
cised with regard to infection by introducing soil on
cart or barrow wheels, tools, etc., from an infected field
or garden to a new locality, as this is sufficient to start
the disease.

CLUBBING IN CABBAGES, FINGER-AND-TOE IN TURNIPS.

218 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

THE ILLUSTRATIONS REPRESENT CLUBBING IN CABBAGES, FINGER-AND-
TOE IN TURNIPS.

A, clubbed Cabbage plants : a, young plant from seed or pricked
off bed at stage of lifting for final transplantation ; b9 trans-
planted plant with disease fully developed ; c, swollen and
clubbed condition of root-stem ; <4 stunted and blackened state
of leaves in advanced stage of disease. B, Turnips attacked by
club-root fungus : £, seedling Turnip with finger-and-toe ; ft
young Turnip showing wart or knob malformation. C,
normal cells (cellular tissue) of Cabbage root-stem, x 200.
D, cellular tissue of Cabbage root-stem with club-root
fungus : g, cells containing plasmodium ; /&, cell crowded
with spores of the fungus, x 300. E, spores of club-root
fungus, Plasmodiophora brassicae. x 670. F, spores germin-
ating : /, spore with protoplasm protruding ; j, plasmodium
consisting of naked protoplasm emerged from spore ; k, a plas-
modium after union with another, x 670.

CARROT FLY. (Psila ros*e.)

The Carrot Fly is shining black slightly tinged
with a greenish colour. It has yellow legs, white
" balancers," and hyaline transparent wings ; the head
is reddish-yellow, and the antennae and palpi tipped
with black. The larva is cylindrical, and of a pale
yellow colour ; the body tapers slightly towards the
mouth, while the other end is rounded ; its skin is
smooth and shining, the tail has two little black
tubercles. The pupa is light brown in colour and of
long-oval form.

The damage done by the larva, popularly termed
grub, maggot, and worm, of the Carrot Fly is known

CARROT FLY 219

as " rust/* from the peculiar reddish or rusty colour
to which the gnawed parts turn. It attacks all parts
of the Carrot root by gnawing galleries in the surface,
or into the substance of the root, but whilst the roots
are young the grub generally attacks the lower part.
Infested Carrots may be known by the outer leaves
turning yellow and withering, while the roots gradually
sicken and die from the injury to the fleshy part, the
growth of the root-fibres being also often completely
destroyed. In consequence of attack by Carrot Fly
larvae or grubs the crop is almost entirely lost in some
gardens.

The attack usually begins early in summer when
the Carrots are from two to six inches high, the fly
depositing eggs on or by the root, and the larvae when
hatched eat their way into the fleshy part. When
full-fed the grubs turn to pupae in the earth, and the
fly comes out in three or four weeks in summer, but
in winter the pupae remain unchanged, and the fly does
not come from them till the following spring or
summer.

Prevention. — The cultural points to be attended to
are : i. Such preparation of the ground in autumn
or winter as will ensure favourable conditions for a
healthy vigorous growth from the first germination of
the seed. 2. Thinning at such a stage of growth as
after thinning may least expose the plants to the
attacks of the Carrot Fly, the operation of thinning
evidently attracting the fly and affording facilities for
the depositing of eggs on or near the Carrots owing to

220 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

the loose open nature of the soil consequent on the thin-
ning. If Carrots require thinning it should be done
when an inch or two high. 3. The ground intended
for Carrots should not be that occupied in the previous
year by them, or even by an umbelliferous crop, and
though the ground should be in good heart from
manuring for a preceding crop, it is not advisable to
apply manure specially for the Carrots, but trenching
and, if need be, applying the manure in the autumn,
keeping it a foot or fifteen inches from the surface.
If kept in the top spit, the manure must be well rotted
and applied in the previous autumn.

Dressings to avoid attack are : i. Roughly dig
the ground intended for the Carrot crop at the be-
ginning of winter and apply gas lime, at the rate of
two and a half to five tons per acre, thirty-five to
seventy Ib. per rod, and leave on the ground till late
winter or early in spring and then dig in with a fork
about four inches deep or apply the gas lime early in
spring, but only the lesser amount ; leave on the
surface a month or six weeks and then dig in in time
to secure a good tilth or fine surface mould.

2. Apply a dressing of wood ashes half an inch
thick all over the ground and dig in a spit deep,
making the surface level and fine, dusting a peck of
soot per rod on the surface. The ground is then
ready for the seed.

3. Broadcast kainit on the land in spring a short
time in advance of sowing, say in February or March,
at the rate of two and a half to five cwt. per acre, one

CARROT FLY 221

and three quarters to three and a half Ib. per rod,
and point in very lightly after it has been broadcasted
on.

4. Dressing the ground with lime the previous
autumn, or the drills with lime and soot (two parts of
lime and one part of soot) when sowing is sometimes
a good preventive.

5. Mix a quart of paraffin oil with a barrow load
of wood ashes (about one cwt.) and broadcast in the
ground at the rate of a peck per rod after sowing the
seed. When the plants are about four inches high
apply a second dressing of the mixture.

6. Water the ground with gas liquor, diluted
with about five times its bulk of water, before sowing,
applying about as much as in watering a seed-bed.
In case of attack, watering with gas liquor, diluted
with twelve times its bulk of water, is a good remedy.

Watering the ground with diluted soluble phenyl
before sowing, and copious watering with an applica-
tion of the same, stops attack and throws the Carrots
into vigorous growth. A fluid ounce of Little's soluble
phenyl to six and a quarter gallons of water does not
injure the Carrots, but it should not be used over the
foliage. Lastly there remains the dressing with spirits
of tar mixed with sand, one gallon of the first to a
barrow load of the latter, the quantity sufficing for
two rods of ground. The dressing may be applied
in autumn and dug in, or after the Carrots are sown,
or it may be strewed at the time of sowing.

All diseased Carrots should be pulled up and

222 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

burned, as once sickly they seldom form good roots
afterwards, and infected Carrot beds should be
thoroughly cleared of roots in the autumn, dressing
the land with gas lime.

Carrots from seed sown in July seldom contract
the disease, and the produce is very serviceable for
winter use.

THE ILLUSTRATIONS REPRESENT CARROT FLY AND ATTACK ON
CARROTS.

A, Carrot Fly : a, natural size ; b, enlarged three diameters. B,
krva, commonly called grub, of Carrot Fly : <r, natural size ;
d, magnified three times. C, pupa, sometimes called fly-case :
<?, natural size ; f, enlarged three diameters. D, attack on
Carrots in early stages of growth : gf on the short varieties, or
Early Horn section, the lower part being rusted or eaten
away ; hy on the long varieties or Long Horn, James' Inter-
mediate, and Long Red Surrey, the lowest part or radicle being
destroyed as well as other portions of top root or Carrot rusted.
E, attack on Carrots when of usable size : /', on short Carrot,
the grub gnawing galleries on the surface, producing a scabby
rusty appearance, and eating into the substance of root, spoil-
ing it for use ; j9 in long Carrot, with two grubs partly out
of flesh.

CELERY FLY. (Nephritis onopordinis.)

The Celery Fly is very small, one-eighth to three-
sixteenths of an inch in length with a wing expanse of
nearly or quite half an inch. It is tawny brown in
colour, with the under part of the body light coloured,
wings iridescent, with oblique lines of brownish spots
running through them ; legs dark yellow, and covered

CARROT FLY.

224 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

with black hairs. When at rest on the Celery or Parsnip
plants the wings are folded in an upright direction.

The fly first appears in April, and the female, larger
than the male and furnished with an ovipositor, places
eggs singly upon the upper sides of the leaves or
leaflets of Celery and Parsnip plants. Each female
deposits many eggs, the larva or maggot hatching out
in about six days, and this at once enters the leaf
tissues and forms a mine within them. The maggots
or larvae are light green, legless, the dark line of the
alimentary canal being visible along the back. The body
is somewhat thick, pointed at the head and squared off
at the tail end, upon which there are black tubercles.
In about a fortnight the larva is full-fed, when it changes
to a pupa, either in the leaf or in the ground. The
pupa case is oval, of a light yellow colour, sometimes
brownish, barrel-shaped, wrinkled and about one-eighth
of an inch long. The fly comes from the pupa -case
in a few days. There are several broods in the course
of the summer, and the pupae of the late generations
remain in the earth and in pieces of leaf and stalk,
the flies emerging the following spring or summer.

Great injury is frequently done by the larvas or
maggots of the Celery Fly to Celery and Parsnips.
They make mines or passages in the leaves, and feed
upon the soft juicy substance. The attacked leaf or
rather leaflet soon contracts, whitish patches appear,
at first small but quickly increasing in size, involving
a large portion of the leaflet, and in a short time it
shrivels up. As many or most of the leaflets are

CELERY FLY 225

thus affected, the Celery is serious crippled, sometimes
ruined, as the stalks cannot, for lack of the elaborat-
ing functions of the leaves, grow and fill out properly.
Besides, the affected parts decay, contaminating the
stems, the blanched ones not uncommonly having rusty
marks, due to the passage of Celery Fly larvae down
the stem, more or less spoiling the appearance and
flavour, and often associated with Celery- stem Fly
larvae and causing the Celery to rust.

Parsnips are also attacked by Tephritis onopor-
dinis, the leaves of the plants being much injured in
some seasons by the larvae, and the roots of the plants
affected are small in proportion to the damage done
to the foliage.

Prevention. — i. In the early stages of infection
the attack may be checked in gardens by pinching
the white spots or blotches on the leaves between the
finger and thumb so as to kill the larvae in them. The
plants must be kept under close observation, even
from the earliest stages, as the fly appears in April
and maggots have been found in the leaves of Celery
as late as the beginning of December. Pinching must
be done carefully, so as to damage the leaves as little
as possible.

2. Dusting the leaves with a mixture of finely
powdered lime and soot in the proportion of one
bushel of lime to three bushels of soot has been found
efficacious, if put on when the leaves are damp from
dew or rain. It prevents the flies from laying eggs
upon the leaves, and prevents other pests infesting

15

226 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

the plants in the stems and roots, and is an excellent
fertiliser. The dressing requires to be repeated at
intervals of a fortnight or three weeks, scattering the
mixture over the plants whilst the leafage is wet with
dew.

3. Spraying the plants with a mixture of paraffin
oil, soft soap and water, at the rate of a quart of
paraffin and half a pound of soap to ten gallons of
water, has been found effective in preventing attacks
of the fly. This paraffin oil and soft soap must be
thoroughly incorporated in a small quantity (eight times
that of soft soap) of boiling water, churning for five
minutes with a small hand syringe to form a perfect
emulsion, and then dilute to ten gallons, applying
when cool enough, as the emulsion is best diluted with
hot water, by means of a knapsack machine, spraying
very lightly on the plants, or, in case of small areas,
try a fine-rose watering can. The spraying will re-
quire to be done twice or more often during the
season.

Other good washes that have proved beneficial are :
(# ) Carbolic acid, one pint, and soft soap, half a pound,
to ten gallons of water, thoroughly incorporating the
acid with the soft soap, and then diluting with water.
(£) Gas tar water : half a pound of gas tar boiled for
half an hour in two gallons of water, diluting to fifty
gallons with water. This is, perhaps, the most repug-
nant of all washes to leaf-blister flies. (<:) Boil four
ounces of quassia chips in a gallon of soft water for a
quarter of an hour, and dissolve in it, as it cools, four

CELERY FLY 227

ounces of soft soap, straining and diluting to two
gallons with hot water, using when cool. The foremen-
tioned washes should be sprayed or sprinkled on the
plants at intervals of a fortnight or three weeks.

4. As many of the pupae remain in the earth
during the winter, it is important to level the ground
after the Celery crop has been cleared, both in the
case of infected Celery and Parsnips, and to collect
and burn all foliage and stems directly the crops have
been dug, then apply a dressing of gas lime, fresh
from gasworks, at the rate of seventy pounds per rod,
or five tons per acre, spreading evenly and leaving on
the surface a month or six weeks before digging or
ploughing in deeply. Where gas lime cannot be
readily got a dressing of stone lime may be used in
double the amount to that of gas lime. In gardens
burying the upper surface deeply, as in trenching, is
a good practice, as it prevents the flies from coming up.
By pursuing this procedure there is little danger of
attack from Celery Fly from a previously infected crop.

5. The trimmings of infected Celery or Parsnip
crops should not be placed on rubbish heaps, as the
pupae in infected leaves and stems are likely to be
carried out with compost or manure, and the flies
coming out attack Celery or Parsnip crops growing
near. If not collected and burned, or put on manure
heaps in a high state of fermentation, the debris of
infected crops is almost certain to be a source of
renewed attack.

6. In order to induce free growth in attacked

228 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

plants finely crushed nitrate of soda, mixed with a
little agricultural salt, will be advantageously applied
alongside of the plants in the trenches, not scattering
on the foliage, but on both sides clear of the plants,
about an ounce of the mixture per yard run of row,
repeating at intervals of a fortnight or three weeks.

THE ILLUSTRATIONS REPRESENT CELERY AND PARSNIP FLY.

A, fly : ay natural size : ^, enlarged three diameters. B, larva com-
monly called maggot : c, natural size ; dy magnified three times.
C, pupa or pupa-case : e, natural size ; f9 enlarged three diam-
eters. D, attack of Celery Fly on Celery : g, blisters or whitish
blotches on leaflets in early stage of attack ; h9 more advanced
stage of devastation ; /, leaflets destroyed by Celery Fly larvae.
E, leaflet of Celery showing : j9 blister caused by Celery Fly
larva eating inner portion of leaf ; k, dirt or excrementitious
matter of maggot ; /, larva or maggot. F, leaflet of Celery
showing : m, blister ; », dirt of maggot ; o9 pupa, sometimes
present in blister.

ONION FLY (Anthomyia ceparum Syn. Phorbia
cepe forum).

The Onion Fly is not unlike the common house fly
in general appearance. It is of a blackish colour, thickly
powdered with grey ; the sides of the thorax are pale,
and there are three dark lines on the back. In certain
lights the abdomen has a whitish lustre, with, in the male,
a darker medium stripe. The eyes are separated in the
male by a slender, black, white-bordered line ; the face
has a pale lustre and the forehead is black, as are the
antennae and palpi ; the legs are pitch black, the wings

CELERY FLY.

230 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

being pale grey, and the pincers white. The length
of the insect is about one quarter of an inch. In the
female, the forehead is broad, with a reddish-brown,
vertical medium stripe, and the body is more ochreous
in colour than the male.

The Onion Fly causes serious injury to the Onion
crop in some seasons, large percentages of the plants
being quite spoiled, both in large and small areas. The
first indications of its presence are shown by the largest
leaves of the Onion plants becoming yellow and after-
wards whitish ; if these are pulled they come easily
away from the stem, and gradually the other leaves
become yellow and decay. The bulb will be found
to be small and badly shaped, and to have yellowish
maggots within its folds feeding upon it, this eventu-
ally causing it to become rotten and useless. In other
cases the outer or lower leaves of the plants are seen
to be lying on the ground, still green, whilst the leaves
remaining upright and green feel soft and flabby. If
infected plants are examined it will generally be noticed
that in the case of very young plants they are eaten
through just above the swelling bulbs by the maggots
or larvae of the fly. In older plants, with large bulbs,
maggots of all sizes will be found within the bulbs.

The flies appear in early summer, and the female
lays six to eight eggs on an Onion plant upon the
leaves, and just above the ground or on it. The eggs
are white, long-oval and readily seen with a pocket lens.
Larvae, called maggots, come from the eggs in from
five to seven days, and make burrows down into the

ONION FLY 231

root or bulb between the sheathing leaves. They feed
upon the contents of the stem or where a bulb would
form, and move on to other plants. Where the bulbs
are larger they are occupied by many maggots, feeding
on and causing them to become rotten, and in some
cases the earth round the bulbs is also infested. The
maggot continues in the larval state about a fortnight.
When full grown it is about one third of an inch long,
dull yellowish-white or dirty-white in colour. The
head part of the body is sharply pointed, and the head
furnished with a pair of black hooks, which can be ex-
tended at will. The tail end is cut off obliquely flat,
and in the centre there are two brown breathing
tubes, and on the margin of the flat tail end there are
eight projections. Before reaching the pupa stage the
maggot usually goes into the earth, but sometimes
remains within the Onion. The pupa, or its case, is
chestnut-brown, long-oval, and from the pupa case the
fly appears in from thirteen to sixteen days. In a
season there are several generations of the fly. The
first has been seen as early as the 25th of April, and
flies have been noticed as late as November.

Prevention. — i. Spraying with offensive composi-
tions, (a) Paraffin emulsion made by mixing three
pints of paraffin oil and half a pound of soft soap with
one gallon of boiling water, mixing being thoroughly
done by churning with a hand pump, adding seven
gallons of hot water when the Onions are young, and
six gallons when they are forming bulbs. The spraying
should be dense and in the form of a mist, operating

23 2 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

early in the season, repeating twice or even three times,
especially if heavy showers fall after the process. (£) Tar
water, made by boiling half a pound of gas tar and two
gallons of water for half an hour or until it will readily
mix, then diluting to fifty gallons, applying as advised
for paraffin oil emulsion solution.

2. (a) Dusting the plants with a mixture of lime
and soot, mixed together in the proportion of one
bushel of soot to two bushels of lime, very finely
powdered and broadcasted over the plants, afterwards
lightly hoeing in, has been efficacious in some degree.
(£) Sprinkling the young Onions with soot has been
adopted with some advantage, but it is necessary to
repeat the applications, a peck of soot being applied
per rod at each dressing, (c) Kainit, broadcasted on
land cropped with Onions, at the rate of five cwt.
per acre, or three and a half pounds per rod, has been
found of great use. It should be lightly hoed in after
being broadcasted on. (d) Nitrate of soda applied at
the rate of one and a quarter to two and a half cwt.
per acre, or fourteen to twenty-eight oz. per rod put
on infested land, after finely crushing, stimulates the
plants and acts badly on the maggots.

3. Sow Parsley with the Onions thinly, the smell
of the former being hateful to the Onion Fly. In
many farms or gardens the Parsley remains after the
Onions, and is sometimes a very remunerative crop
The Onion Fly does not appear to relish umbelli-
ferous crops, hence follow Celery with Onions, not
using any manure for the latter crop.

ONION FLY.

234 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

4. When Onion plants in a garden or field are
noticed to droop and wither all such plants should be
taken up and burnt. If taken up with a small three-
pronged fork, the maggots will usually be removed
with the plant. If this is done early all the larvae will
be got rid of, but if deferred they will have left the
bulb and have turned into pupae in the soil.

5. All pieces of bulbs should be removed from in-
fected land as pupae sometimes remain in the bulbs, after-
wards dressing with gas lime, two and a half to five tons
per acre. After spreading evenly and leaving a month
or six weeks plough deeply or trench the ground.

6. Wherever possible, Onions should not be grown
again for at least one season on land where the crop
has been infected, as the pupae remain in the ground
during the winter.

THE ILLUSTRATIONS REPRESENT ONION FLY : ATTACK AND EFFECT
ON ONIONS.

A, Onion Fly : a, natural size ; b, enlarged three diameters. B,
larva, commonly called maggot : c, natural size ; </, magnified
three times. C, pupa, sometimes called fly-case : e, natural
size ; f, enlarged three diameters. D, young Onion at usual
earliest stage of attack : g, eggs of Onion Fly deposited on
leaf bases ; h, eggs deposited on ground close to bulb. E,
attack on plant after bulb commenced forming : j, eggs laid
in leaf axils ; j9 dotted line indicating course taken by maggot
after hatching out to base of bulb ; k, hole eaten by maggot in
passing into bulb. F, section of Onion infested with maggot :
/, hole made by larva or maggot in entering bulb ; m, burrow
in bulb with maggot lying in it. G, Onion destroyed by
Onion Fly : n, top withered ; o, centre of bulb decayed with
maggots in it.

ONION MILDEW 235

ONION MILDEW (Peronosfora schleideni). .

This destructive disease appears upon the tops of
Onions, at first as a small yellowish patch on one or
more of the leaves, and on these discoloured patches
presently appears a delicate white coating, not unlike
hoar-frost, which speedily changes to a greyish-lilac
colour. The diseased patches usually extend until the
entire leaf or leaves are affected and ultimately the
diseased leaf or leaves fall back and dries up. The
disease usually appears early and does not attack the
bulb, but this remains very small, and diseased plants
generally have a long or " thick " neck. Sometimes,
however, the mildew attacks the full-sized bulb, both
before and after it is harvested, and commences from
the outside.

The threads of the fungus push about between
the tissue cells of the Onion leaf, destroying their
contents, and causing the collapse of the leaves.
Certain branches are sent out through the breathing
pores of the leaf, on which the spores are developed,
as shown in B, p. 237. These pointed-oval spores are
carried by wind or rain on to the surface of neighbour-
ing healthy leaves, where they germinate at once, enter
the tissues of the leaf, there give origin to mycelium,
that soon produces fruiting branches, and the spores
from these in turn infect other plants.

Besides the conidia or summer spores, the fungus
develops resting spores or oospores within the tissues
of the diseased leaves. These resting spores have a

236 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

thicker wall than the conidia, are spherical rather than
oval, and do not germinate until the spring following
their production, when they inoculate the young Onions
and start the disease anew.

Prevention. — The collecting and burning of all
diseased tops in which the resting spores may pass the
winter — as, if left on the ground they rot, and are
set free in the soil — is imperative, for the resting spores
retain their vitality for at least two years, hence Onions
should not be grown on the same land more than once
in three years. Where this is attended to the Onion
crop cannot be affected as regards infection from the
land.

Crops grown on low damp ground are more subject
to attack than those in higher, drier and more open
situations.

As the disease appears early, it has been advised to
sow the seed in autumn so that the Onions are able to
make a good strong growth before the appearance of
the mildew in the spring following. This plan, how-
ever, does not secure absolute immunity from the
disease ; besides, the bulbs of autumn-sown Onions do
not keep through the winter nearly so well as spring-
sown, and we have known autumn-sown Onion bulbs
collapse entirely from mildew when they should have
been maturing.

In the early stages of the disease it may be checked
by dusting with a mixture of two parts quick lime and
one part flowers of sulphur, applying by means of a
bellows apparatus when the plants are damp. For

ONION MILDEW.

238 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

many years we have used a mixture of air-slaked lime
and soot in equal parts by measure as soon as the young
Onions were well up and again at thinning time, at the
rate of a peck per rod, and not been troubled with
mildew. Spraying with a solution of potassium
sulphide, one ounce to two and a half gallons of
water, will also check the spread of the disease. Pre-
vention, however, rather than cure should be the aim
of the cultivators.

THE ILLUSTRATIONS REPRESENT ONION MILDEW.

A, plant of Onion affected with Onion Mildew : a, diseased
patches ; b, portions of leaves destroyed and fallen back ; c,
bulb not affected ; </, " thick " or long neck, one-third natural
. size. B, Onion Mildew (Peronospora schleideni) : ef
conidiophore bearing conidia or summer spores ; fy stoma of
Onion leaf, x 230. C, mature and free conidia or summer
spores, one germinating : g, germ-tube, x 200. D, resting
spore, or Oospore. x 300.

PEA THRIPS (Thrips pisivora).

The Pea Thrips was first figured and described
by Professor Westwood in the Gardeners' Chronicle,
1 4th August, 1880, page 206, and it is recorded that
in July of that year the Pea crops in the neighbour-
hood of Oxford were seriously injured by the pest.
Prior to that time, and since, the Pea crops have
suffered more or less in hot and dry seasons from
attacks of Thrips, particularly on dry soils and in
warm situations; especially in 1893, and in 1896

PEA THRIPS 239

and 1899, the Pea crops in Essex were practically
spoiled by thrips.

In most cases of attack from Pea Thrips the
haulm of the Peas is fully developed, but flowers and
perfect pods are generally wanting, though a few
abortive flowers, others with dried calyces and
shrivelled petals, and pods with few or no peas in
them, but distorted and prematurely dried, are not
lacking. In numerous instances of Peas in fields and
gardens whole rows of Pea plants are not unusually
met with of average growth and apparent health,
without perfect flowers and well-formed pods, while
sometimes the crop is rendered utterly worthless.
The insects causing this disturbance of flower de-
velopment and pod formation are so minute as to be
scarcely noticed by a casual observer, and if noticed
regarded as too insignificant to cause such wholesale
mischief.

The Pea Thrips is about one-twelfth of an inch
long, greyish-yellow, without wings ; antennae seven-
jointed, hairy, five upper joints yellowish and lower
ones black. Eyes red, mouth furnished with a short
fleshy sucking apparatus, feet shaped like bladders, and
at the end of the body is a reddish-brown ovipositor.
Winged specimens are sometimes found on Pea plants,
darker in colour, with two pairs of wings with long
fringes folded down the whole length, and extending
beyond the body. The female places eggs of micro-
scopic size close to the midribs of the leaves, from which
the larvae come in seven or eight days, and at once

24o VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

begin to suck up the juices of the plant. There are
many generations of the thrips during the summer.
In the winter they remain relatively passive in the
perfect state in the cracks and crevices of the bark of
trees and similar sheltering positions.

Prevention. — As a rule the Pea plants are not
attacked until coming into flower, and then, sheltered
by the folded parts, the insects infest the foliage and
fructifying portions, and often completely arrest the
formation of flowers and pods. They seldom do any
mischief till the flowering stage is reached. It follows
that to prevent attack the steps taken must be ante-
cedent to the flowering, the plants being sprayed with
a wash, such as the following : (a) Take five or six
pounds of soft soap and dissolve them in twelve
gallons of hot soft or rain water, then add a gallon
of strong tobacco liquid — that known as London
juice — and spray on the plants during the evening of
a fine day. The following morning wash the plants
thoroughly with clear water, and in the course of
a few days repeat the treatment, for though the
first will destroy the insects it will not kill the eggs.
(£) Place one ounce of strongest shag tobacco in
a vessel and pour on it a quart of boiling water,
cover closely and allow to stand until cool, then
strain and sprinkle on the Pea plants with a fine-rose
watering can. This is very serviceable to small
growers, and it is easy to make any quantity for use
on a large scale, repeating at weekly intervals until
the Peas are well advanced in podding, (c) Boil five

PEA THRIPS 241

pounds of quassia chips in five gallons of water, after
steeping overnight, for half an hour, and dissolve in
it as it cools five pounds of soft soap, diluting to one
hundred gallons with hot water. Apply, when cool
enough, by means of a knapsack machine, coating
the plants in every part with the finest possible film
of the liquid, repeating at weekly intervals once or
twice.

Dusting with tobacco powder whilst the Pea
plants are damp with dew has a good effect, repeating
the dose occasionally. In the case of dry weather it
will be advantageous to sprinkle the plants with water
before dusting with the tobacco powder.

As Peas are most liable to thrips in hot and dry
positions, it is good practice to mulch the ground on
both sides of the Pea row with short partially decayed
manure, and water the Peas liberally in dry weather,
pouring the water on the mulching by the side of the
rows. After the pods are formed or the flowering
assured, a sprinkling of finely crushed nitrate of soda
on both sides of the Pea row will help the plants,
about an ounce being used per yard run of row.
Syringing the plants overhead in the evening of hot days
is very advantageous to the Peas, as though little will
remain on the foliage, the ground is made moist and
the atmosphere about by evaporation, water being
very hateful to thrips, many being washed off by the
syringing and not a few destroyed.

After an attack of Pea Thrips, Peas should not
be sown the following year near the infected spot, and

16

242 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

the ground should be deeply ploughed or dug, or, in
gardens, trenched.

THE ILLUSTRATIONS REPRESENT PEA THRIPS AND EFFECT ON PEA

PLANT.

A, Pea Thrips : a, natural size ; b, enlarged twelve diameters. B, por-
tion of top of Pea plant infested with Pea Thrips : c, end of a
shoot in which the leaves and flower buds are all shrivelled or
dried up, checking further growth ; d, blooms completely crip-
pled by the punctures of the thrips and incapable of develop-
ment ; e, pods that have been formed, but contorted by the
action of the thrips, and further growth arrested. C, pod
partially developed : f9 apical half shrivelled and contorted ;
g, surface wrinkled by the punctures of the insects. The
longest dots on the leaflets and other parts of the portion of
top indicate the thrips.

BEAN AND PEA BEETLES (B ruckus granarius and
B. fist).

The Bean Beetle is a little more than one eighth
of an inch long, colour black, with brown hairs and
various white spots, tip of tail prolonged and covered
with grey down ; head drooping, mouth forming a
kind of wedge-shaped beak, wing-cases pitted with
small dots, front legs reddish.

The Bean-seed Beetle lays its eggs on the young
seed vessel in the Bean blossom, and from these eggs
the maggots or larvae hatch, and shortly eat their way
into the growing Beans. Each maggot gnaws a gallery
for itself and remains in the closed-up tunnel, turning,
when full-fed, into a pupa, and thence into the beetle

PEA THRIPS.

244 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

state amid the dirt consequent on its feeding in the
larval stage. From the caverns in the Beans the beetles
do not come out till the end of winter, or, in some
cases, well on in spring, though they have been found
on Furze flowers as early as February, yet have been
present in Beans in March, April and May.

Infected Beans are readily detected by having a
little round depression in the skin, which is also, at this
part, slightly yellowish or transparent. This is caused
by the substance of the Bean having been eaten away
inside by the fleshy, wrinkled, small, horny maggot,
with a rusty- coloured head, which gnaws its gallery in
the seed up to the skin, so that this sinks a little into
the hollow space. When the beetle emerges it pushes
the circular bit of skin off, and the small round holes
show that the seed has been infected.

The Pea Beetle has a similar life history to the
Bean Beetle, and is chiefly confined in attack to im-
ported seed. Peas, however, are frequently infested
by the Bean Beetle (Bruchus granarius), which also
infests Broom, Furze and Vetches.

The effect of the Bean or Pea Beetle attack is to
impair the vegetative power of the seed. Injured seed
will sprout in most cases, but although the growing
germ is left, a great part of what this germ needs to
make it grow well is gone. As the young plant
depends on the quantity of food in the seed for the
vigour of its first start, being nourished by the sub-
stance turned into soluble plant-food by the chemical
changes due to germination until the leaves and rootlets

BEAN AND PEA BEETLES 245

are produced, it is evident that the chances of a strong
and healthy plant are much diminished by using maggot-
eaten seed. It follows, also, that if infested Beans or
Peas are sown the beetles will not be injured by being
buried, but will come up through the ground in due
time to infest the new crop.

Prevention. — Whether the Beans or Peas are in-
fested or otherwise they should be dressed with
paraffin oil before sowing. In a large practice the
writer has followed this plan for many years with com-
plete success. The Beans or Peas are simply placed in
a clean flower pot with the hole corked, paraffin oil
sprinkled on and the seed shaken up, holding the pot
by the rim with both hands and shaking up with a
turn-over movement so as to bring the bottom seed
to the top and vice versa and thus coating the seed all
over with the paraffin oil. The surplus oil may then
be run off by holding the hand over the seed and re-
versing the pot, either sowing at once or leaving over-
night. If the latter, it will be seen what good the
dressing has effected, if the beetles were in the seed
they will have come out and be dead, or if they had
escaped before the dressing the cavities will have been
soaked with the oil and the Bean or Pea substance
preserved against the attack of Snake Millipedes and
other pests that are almost sure, otherwise, to be
attracted by the exposed tissues and so, in con-
junction with decay, destroy the substance that would
be left intact, or, as remaining, go to nourish the young
plant. Besides, the seed is protected from the attacks

246 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

of rats and mice, also other depredatory pests. On a
large scale the seed may readily be coated with paraffin
oil by placing in a vessel, sprinkling with the oil, and
turning over a few times, so as to coat the seed in
every part with the oil.

Treating the seed with a solution of carbolic acid,
one pint of acid to six quarts of water, kills the beetles
without hurting the seed. As a combined insecticide
and fungicide the following recipe, taken from Miss
E. A. Ormerod's Manual of Injurious Insects, p. 7,
has been found effectual. Water, six quarts ; blue
vitriol, one pound ; sewage carbolic, one pint. This
dressing is for six bushels of Beans, sprinkling on and
turning the Beans with a shovel. The liquid passes
through the thin film of coating of the Bean or Pea at
the end of the gallery and kills the beetle within.

THE ILLUSTRATIONS REPRESENT BEAN AND PEA BEETLES AND
INFESTED BEANS AND PEAS.

A, Bean Beetle : #, natural size ; b, magnified. B, Bean Beetle
larva : d, magnified. C, Bean Beetle pupa : e, natural
size ; fy magnified. D, Broad Bean infested with Bean
Beetle : g, aperture from which beetle has passed out of
Bean ; ^, little round depression in skin of Bean, slightly
yellowish and transparent, the Beetle being in gallery eaten
away in Bean substance. E, Pea Beetle : /, natural size ; j9
magnified. F, Pea infested with Pea Beetle : k, depressed spot
in skin of Pea, the round spot being depressed, as also the
area of the gallery, but skin intact, indicating presence of
beetle in Pea, if open, the beetle has passed out. G, germin-
ated Pea, the Pea having been treated with paraffin oil before
sowing and the beetle killed, if coming out of the Pea : /,

BEAN AND PEA BEETLES.

248 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

aperture by which beetle has come out ; m, cavity soaked
with paraffin oil and made offensive to Snake Millipedes and
other pests ; n, radicle ; o, ascending axis or plumule. H,
germination of Broad Bean that was infested with Bean
Beetle when sown and seed not dressed : />, cavity formed by
Beetle in Bean and ascending axis or plumule destroyed ; ^,
radicle quite normal, but the grower is disappointed because
no growth appears above ground and the seed lobes are gener-
ally infested by millipedes and rapidly decay. I, infested
Broad Beans after treatment with paraffin oil and remaining
overnight : r, small holes by which beetles have passed out of
Beans ; sy dead beetles.

THE POTATO DISEASE (Phytophthora infestans).

This destructive pest was first observed in the
United States, Denmark and Norway between 1840-
42, and by 1845 ^ nac^ spread over Europe, doing
immense damage, especially in Ireland. In the first
ten years of its invasion the injury was very severe,
and though less malignant at the present day, it is still
the cause of much damage, particularly in wet seasons.
It not only attacks the Potato and Tomato, but infests
several exotic and native species of Solanum.

History. — The disease is first indicated by brownish
blotches on the leaves. These, small at first, gradually
increase in size and cause the leaves to curl, followed
by a blackening and decaying of the leaves and stems,
the affected crop collapsing in a few days and emitting
a disagreeable smell in cases of severe infection. With
a pocket lens numbers of delicate white threads are seen
towards the circumference of the diseased and brown

THE POTATO DISEASE 249

spot on the under side of the leaf. With a microscope
these threads are found to consist of simple or branched
conidiophores emerging singly or in clusters through
the stomata of the leaf, and rearing conidia or spores,
egg-shaped and colourless. The conidia produced on
the conidiophores which originate from the mycelium
of the fungus ramifying the tissues of the leaf, are thus
in a position, when mature, for ready dispersal by wind,
rain and other natural agents. A conidium thus dis-
persed may germinate at once, pushing a germ-tube,
or it may give origin to a number of zoospores when
alighting on a damp surface, as that of a Potato leaf
covered with water from rain or even dew. The
zoospores, furnished with hair-like appendages, move
about actively for some time in the water, and finally
settle down and emit a germ-tube, which enters the
tissue of the leaf through a stoma or directly bores
through the epidermis.

Conidia washed by rain upon young tubers pro-
duce zoospores which infect the Potatoes, entering their
tissues, forming a mycelium and setting up decay, more
or less, unless, as it has been found to happen
frequently, "sweating" takes place after the Potatoes
are stored, when the mycelium spreads and converts
the mass, often aided by other micro-organisms, into
an ill-smelling state of putrefaction. Thus the fungus
may wear itself out, or be subdued by other organisms
more speedily resolving organic into inorganic matter.
But the mycelium of the fungus also passes down
diseased Potato stems, infects the tubers, and the

25°

VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

mycelium in part becomes latent until the following
season, when it may renew its activity and grow up
along with the stems springing from the tuber, giving
rise to the disease known as " curl," and the spores of
the fungus being produced the disease rapidly spreads
over a whole field, parish, county, or country.

The sexual mode of reproduction is not developed
in Phytophthora infestans, hence there are no resting
spores or oosphores, and consequently the only means
of re-infection is from reproductive bodies originated
from latent mycelium.

Prevention. — i. Burn all the tops after the crop
is gathered, as the mycelium may hibernate in them,
especially in axillary tubers not unfrequently pro-
duced on the stems. 2. Gather all small and diseased
Potatoes, as the mycelium hibernates in them, and, sur-
viving the winter in the ground, may start the disease
anew. 3. Select seed for planting from localities
exempt from disease in previous season, always exer-
cising great care in selecting seed, preferably from a
different soil, never using other than sound sets, for
diseased tubers are the principal means of infection.
4. Rotate the crop, for the means of infection cer-
tainly survive in the Potatoes and stems left in the
ground. 5. Thoroughly work the land, having it in
good tilth and perfectly clean. 6. Plant early in the
season, early or second early varieties in March, and
all in April, the earlier the better as befits variety and
location, for the plants acquire a better disease-resisting
habit. If manure be used at time of planting let it be

THE POTATO DISEASE 251

thoroughly rotted, for rank manure induces a gross and
late growth highly favourable to attack by the fungus.
7. Plant on a sandy loam, or a well-drained soil, as the
moisture of a heavy or badly drained soil favours the
disease. 8. Use whole sets about two ounces in weight
or if cut seed is used the surface should be allowed to dry
or preferably be dusted with quick lime. 9. Select
varieties least subject to the attack of the disease. 10.
Choose a time for planting when the ground is in good
working order, allow due space for the development of
the plants, as sturdiness of habit induced by due exposure
to light and air implies corresponding disease-resisting
power ; also supplement the stable or farmyard manure
application by a dressing of artificial manure tending
to promote sturdy growth and early maturity of crop,
always avoiding rank manure and chemicals that induce
gross and late growth. 1 1. Cover the seed four inches
deep and never exceed six inches. Keep the ground
clean and in due course earth up the plants well, not
only to prevent the greening of the tubers, but also to
safeguard them from infection by conidia of the fungus
washed into the soil by rain. 12. Spray the plants
with Bordeaux mixture or Bouille Bordelaise, early
kinds during the last fortnight of June and other
varieties during the first fortnight of July.

Repeat the spraying a fortnight or three weeks
after the first application. As a rule the first dressing
of Bordeaux mixture may be made after the plants are
earthed up and about one-third grown or before the
plants meet in the rows, and the second in about a fort-

252 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

night or by the time the plants are showing or coming
into flower. For general crops one application should
be made towards the end of June and another towards
the end of July. The effect of the spraying is to ( i )
prevent infection to a great extent, if not entirely ;
(2) render the plants more impervious to the attacks of
the fungus where it has made its appearance ; and (3)
arrest the disease in a considerable degree after the
plants show signs of the infection. Thus the plants
remain longer in growth and yield a heavier crop of
better-matured tubers and freer from disease than would
otherwise be the case.

The Bouille Bordelaise has the following composi-
tion : —

Sulphate of copper . . . . 20 Ib.

Lime unslaked . . . . . 20 Ib.

Water . . . . . . 100 gallons.

The sulphate of copper is dissolved in a tub con-
taining about twenty-five gallons of water, being first
placed in a bag of coarse sacking suspended over the
edge. The lime is slaked in another vessel, and after
forming into a paste free from grit and small lumps,
add sufficient water to make up twenty-five gallons.
When the copper sulphate is entirely dissolved and the
lime is cool pour the lime milk and copper solution
slowly together, stirring the milk of lime well before
pouring out. Add the remainder of the water and stir
with a broad wooden paddle for at least three minutes
and the mixture is ready for use,

THE POTATO DISEASE 253

About 100 to 1 20 gallons of the mixture are neces-
sary for a first dressing, and from 120 to 160 gallons
for a second dressing per acre. With the knapsack
sprayers, Eclair or Antipest, a man can dress about half
an acre per day. The cost of dressing is from eight
shillings to ten shillings per acre, depending upon the
price of labour and the quantity of Bouille used for
each application.

Affected crops not dressed with Bordeaux mix-
ture should be dug up as soon as the skins are suf-
ficiently set, as the disease spreads rapidly to the tubers,
especially if the weather be wet.

Thoroughly dry the Potatoes before storing them.
Those for seed may be " greened " by exposure to light ;
but those for use as food must be kept dark. If stored
when wet the spores lodging in them will germinate and
develop the disease, whilst the affected tubers speedily
decay.

Store in a cool dry place and sort the tubers oc-
casionally, removing infected ones, and dusting in case of
infection with dry air-slaked lime at the rate of one
bushel of lime to twenty-five bushels of Potatoes.

THE ILLUSTRATIONS REPRESENT THE POTATO DISEASE (PHYTOPHTHORA
INFESTANS).

A, diseased leaf : a, small brownish blotches ; b, curled leaflets ;
c, blackened and decayed portions ; dy whitish mould. B,
set : e, apparently healthy sprouts ; f, sprouts retarded in
growth and slight depressed blotches on skin. C, section of
set : g, browned tissue. D, portion of mycelial hyphae (myce-
lium) from browned tissue. E, cluster of conidiophores :

POTATO DISEASE.

POTATO SCAB 255

ht stoma of Potato leaf; /, conidiophore ; j, conidium. F, a
free conidium germinating : ky conidium (spore) ; /, germ-
tube. G, a free conidium with contents breaking up into
zoospores. H, a conidium germinating and liberating zoo-
spores : m, conidium ; n, free zoospores with cilia (hairs). I,
zoospore become passive and germinating : 0, passive ; p, ger-
minating. J, zoospore germinated and germ-gum entered
Potato leaf through stoma ; f, stoma ; r, germ-tube. A-C,
two-thirds natural size. D-J, enlarged two hundred and fifty
diameters.

POTATO SCAB.

This affection on the skin of Potatoes may be due
to different agents. There are at least three forms
found on Potatoes.

i. Scab not caused by parasitic organisms. The
brownish scale on the skin and cracking in the bark
of Potatoes, often forming large rough patches and
seriously affecting their market value, begins at a
very early stage of growth in the tuber. Both are seen
at first as small corroded spots, or minute open pus-
tules. In bad cases the spots and cracks become
confluent, and the whole skin or bark of the Potato is
unsightly. If the weather be dry, the tubers are not
injured more than the waste of substance for use,
indeed, the so-called dry-scab is a sure indication that
the Potato attacked is good and floury, though the
market value is depreciated in ratio to the degree of
scab. When the weather proves wet and the inner
portion of the tuber is exposed, as in scab, to the soil,
affected Potatoes acquire an earthy and disagreeable

256 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

taste, decay setting in, and the devastation is ac-
celerated by the action of minute animal and vege-
table pests, never slow to take advantage of feeding
on exposed vegetable tissues, hence scabbed and
cracked Potatoes are often wholly unfit for human
food and not marketable.

This brownish scab and cracking are due to the
presence of some irritating or corrosive substance in the
soil. Lime rubbish, builders' refuse, ash-pit manure or
ashes, and the use of highly nitrogenous manures,
such as fowl and pigeon manure placed in direct con-
tact with the sets and thus ready for the young tubers
to come into contact with, also rank stable or farmyard
manure used at the time of setting below or over the
sets, are likely to cause the scabbing and cracking of
Potatoes. Continued drought when such substances
are used may extend the action in a corrosive direction.
The tuber strives to repair the injured part, the bark
becomes scabbed and cracked, and insects and fungi
take possession.

It generally happens that a portion only of a crop
of Potatoes is scabbed, and this can often be traced to
a part of the garden or field where irritating or cor-
rosive substances have been applied. When scab and
cracking can thus be traced the remedy suggests
itself.

Potato Scab or Smut (Sorosporium scabies) pro-
duces one form of scab in Potatoes. It grows beneath
the skin of the tuber, where it forms a thin, dark,
greenish-brown stratum, often extending over the

POTATO SCAB 257

greater part of the external surface of the tuber.
The presence of the fungus may be detected by dis-
coloured blotches on the skin. It often happens that
no trace of the disease is to be seen at the time of
harvesting, but it frequently shows itself during
winter in stored Potatoes, small discoloured spots first
appearing on the skin of the tuber. These spots
increase in size and become confluent, till at length
the entire surface of the potato is discoloured. The
cuticle then bursts in many places, and the olive-green
spores are set free.

Prevention. — Scab may generally be prevented by
adding lime to the soil, either in the autumn or early
in spring, and avoiding the use of rank manure at the
time of planting. A hundredweight of quick lime
per rod is a proper quantity to apply, slaking in little
heaps convenient for spreading, and digging or plough-
ing in as soon afterwards as convenient, always choos-
ing a dry time for the operation. If manure is applied
in autumn the liming may be performed in March.
In the case of land previously heavily manured it is
well to omit manuring altogether, relying upon the
liming and the application of artificial fertilisers.
When the land is limed in autumn thoroughly rotted
stable or farmyard manure may be applied in spring.

No Potatoes showing traces of scab should be
planted, and when the disease appears among stored
tubers the whole should be sorted and the sound ones
freely dusted with air-slaked lime before again storing.
When Sorosporium disease in the Potatoes is suspected

17

258 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

in the tubers selected for seed they should be steeped
in a solution of half a pint of formalin and fifteen
gallons of water for two hours, which, according to
Professor Arther, is a complete specific for American
Potato Scab, though this has nothing in common with
Potato Scab as understood in the British Islands.
Formalin, however, is a poison, and must only be used
for sets.

AMERICAN POTATO SCAB (Oospora scabies).

This troublesome disease has only been thoroughly
investigated in America. It usually attacks the tubers
while young, forming rough patches known as scab on
the skin. The fungus causes a deep black-brown dis-
colouration of the substratum, and frequently the
affected tubers produce abnormal growths or swell-
ings similar to super-tuber ing. When the tubers are
freshly dug up a delicate greyish mould is present on
the diseased patches, but these fine whitish threads
soon dry up and disappear when exposed to the
atmosphere. It reproduces itself by means of spores,
which remain in the soil for some years, and not only
infect Potatoes, but Beet, Carrots, Swede Turnips and
Cabbages.

Prevention. — Destroy all diseased tubers by burn-
ing, or if fed to stock boil them before use. Land
which has produced scabbed crops, either of Potatoes
or Beets, must not be planted with Potatoes in the
following year. Avoid the use of rank stable or farm-

B

POTATO SCAB.

260 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

yard manure, as this particular scab is most prevalent
where the land has been heavily manured. Use a
dressing of lime and any approved artificial fertiliser
in preference to stable or farmyard manure. The
seed must be free from oospore spores, or be treated
with the following as advised by Professor Bolley :—
Immerse the Potatoes, after placing in a sack of
open texture, for an hour and a half in a solution
consisting of two and a quarter ounces ot corrosive
sublimate to fifteen gallons of water, after which they
may be cut and planted as usual after being spread
out to dry. The corrosive sublimate should first be
dissolved in a few gallons of hot water, placing the
solution in a wooden vessel, as the mixture corrodes
metal. The solution is a strong poison, but does
not work injury unless taken into the stomach.
Great care should be taken in handling the pure
substance and all treated Potatoes must be planted.

THE ILLUSTRATIONS SHOW POTATO SCAB.

A, Ashleaf Kidney Potato affected by ordinary scab fungus (Soro«-
porium scabies) : a, small scabs called sori or seats of fungus
growth ; b9 large scab in rough patches, often due to mechani-
cal agency and not always caused by parasites. B, sorus (or
scab on Potato skin) of Sorosporium scabies in early stage.
x 3. C, spores of Potato scab fungus (Sorosporium scabies).
x 300. D, Periola tomentosa, a fungus found on scabbed
Potatoes in stores, x 300. E, Potato affected by American
Potato scab (Oospora scabies) : c, swellings caused by fungus ;
d, scabs. F, early stage of Oospora scabies sorus. x 3. G,
aerial hyphae and conidia of Oospora scabies, x 300. H, spores
of Oospora scabies, x 300.

SLEEPING DISEASE OF TOMATO 261

SLEEPING DISEASE OF TOMATO (Fusarium
lycopersici).

Sleeping Disease of Tomato was first recorded from
the Channel Islands. It is very destructive to the
crops of Tomatoes extensively grown in Guernsey.
In recent years the disease has occurred in most
localities in the British Islands, even where widely
separated, where both small and large areas are under
cultivation, considerable loss resulting to the growers.

The plants affected by sleeping disease first give
indications of attack by the dull or leaden colour of
the foliage, and presently the leaves begin to droop.
Shortly afterwards the stem collapses, especially at the
lower part, and the plant goes off altogether, as in-
dicated in the illustration at A, p. 266. Sometimes,
however, the affected plant makes a great effort to
supply itself with nourishment by pushing adventitious
roots from the stem above ground, and in some in-
stances a surface dressing of soil placed round the
stem has resulted in the maturing of the fruit already
set and swelling on the plant. A case of this kind is
shown at B, p. 266.

The attack on the Tomato plant is more frequent
after fruit is present than before, though the parasite
assails the seedlings, and in all stages of growth, but
usually its effects are not pronounced until the flower-
ing and fruiting stages. It frequently happens that
the plants are not apparently attacked until they are
well in fruit, and this very often ripens, the unaided
eye and even microscopical examination failing to

262 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

detect any trace of the disease, even in the stem of the
plant, for any considerable distance above ground.
Thus the disease appears to have degrees of virulence
or the plants possess varying resistive power.

History. — In all cases the root is attacked first.
The fungus gains entrance to the plant through the
rootlets, often by the radicle or tap-root, and gradually
extends to the root-stem. Its mycelium ascends in the
woody tissues of the root-stem, and presently the plant
begins to droop or " sleep ". If a stem is cut through
just above ground at this stage, drooping being well pro-
nounced, a brown discolouration of the woody tissues
or vascular bundles will be noticed clearly by the naked
eye, and this is a certain indication that the disease has
extended so far up the stem. Shortly after this the
cortex or bark at the junction of the stem with the
soil becomes brown, and presently is more or less
covered with a very delicate white mould. This
consists of the first stage of the fungus, being fruiting
branches or conidiophores, and bearing conidia in
whorls, shown at E, p. 266. This Diplocladium stage
of the fungus is quickly followed by the Fusarium
condition, which forms from the same mycelium that
previously produced the Diplocladium. The Fusarium
stage is shown at F, p. 266. Another form of fruit
is produced on strands of mycelium in the soil, which
are termed resting spores because they remain dormant
for a season and then germinate. These bodies are
shown at G, p. 266.

The first stage spores fall to the ground when
mature. They germinate and produce a mycelium

SLEEPING DISEASE OF TOMATO 263

that may attack the roots of Tomato plants. In like
manner the second stage spores drop to the earth when
ripe. They quickly germinate and the mycelium
produced may attack the rootlets of Tomatoes. On
these points, however, the data are not decisive. Of
the third stage or resting spores there is no question
of their capability of infection. They are formed in
the soil, remain dormant there for a season and then
germinate, forming a mycelium, probably at first sap-
rophy tic, capable of attacking the rootlets of Tomatoes,
and by this means the disease is continued from year
to year.

In no instance has success attended efforts to in-
fect above-ground portions of Tomato plants with
either Diplocladium lycopersici or Fusarium lycopersici
spores. This is remarkable, and as the young rootlets
of the Tomato are the only part of the plant through
which the fungus gains admission to its interior, the
deduction may be drawn of the fungus beginning life
as a saprophyte and of even mainly leading that,
though also capable of becoming parasitic.

Prevention. — As the disease is wholly internal and
infection on the aerial part of the plant not feasible,
spraying with fungicides is worse than useless. As the
fungus begins life as a saprophyte, it is obvious that
the best preventive will be to avoid green manure,
either as an application to the soil or as a top dressing,
for a saprophyte must have at command dead and
decaying organic substance to exist. The manure, or
such substances as leaf mould and even turfy loam, with

264 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

the vegetation only partially decayed, may not contain
spores, yet afford a congenial means for those present
in the ground to germinate and reproduce themselves.
Hence when seeds or plants push rootlets the my-
celium of the fungus many assume its parasitic pro-
clivities. The use of quick lime also tends to resolve
the decaying animal and vegetable matter in the soil
into inorganic substances upon which no saprophyte
can live, hence to take away the food is to exhaust the
organism. Whether lime acts on fungus in that way
or directly destroys its saprophytic existence is not
clear, but that its application reduces infection to a
minimum is beyond question.

Another matter worth notice is that plants grown
in pots are far less liable to sleeping disease than those
planted in the border upon which the pots are placed.
In the cultivation of plants in pots the compost mainly
consists of loam in which the organic substances are
in a complete state of decay, and fertilisers employed
which only green-leaved plants can make use of.
The fungus, therefore, even if present, cannot exist,
or if the spores germinate the mycelium has its career
ended in the saprophytic stage.

As preventive the use of quick lime is strongly ad-
vised at the rate of one pound per square yard, slaking
with the smallest amount of water necessary to cause
it to fall into an apparently dry powder, then spread-
ing evenly whilst hot and in the course of a day or
two digging in with a fork and taking small spits so
as to mix as evenly as possible with the soil to the

SLEEPING DISEASE OF TOMATO 265

depth of a foot. This should be done about six weeks
in advance of planting or the application may be made
in autumn. In the case of soil for potting, air-slaked
lime mixed with an equal proportion of soot by
measure may be used at the rate of one per cent.
Where pots are to be placed the ground should be
well dressed with quick lime.

The use of basic cinder phosphate has also been tried
advantageously, especially with kainit : two pounds of
basic cinder phosphate and three quarters of a pound of
kainit per square yard, digging on in the autumn and
forking over again before planting. In the case of
soil for potting, the mixture may be added to about
nine cubic feet, or spread the compost about a foot in
depth and sprinkle on it the two and three quarter
pounds of mixture per square yard and mix well.

Though the disease has not been traced to the seed,
it is not wise to use that obtained from diseased plants,
and even that from a neighbourhood where the disease
prevails cannot be safely used, for apart from germs
there is greater susceptibility to disease.

It is needless to insist that the plants should be
removed and burned on the appearance of the first
symptoms of the disease, and the soil dressed and
thoroughly mixed with quick lime.

THE ILLUSTRATIONS REPRESENT SLEEPING DISEASE OF TOMATO.

A, plant of Tomato drooping and destroyed by Sleeping Disease :
rf, roots brown and dead ; b, root-stem browned and destroyed ;
c, stem up which disease passes. B, recuperated plant of

B

TOMATO SLEEPING DISEASE.

TOMATO BLACK SPOT 267

Tomato by top dressing with soil, sometimes effective in en-
abling plant to mature fruit : dy roots and root-stem destroyed
by Sleeping Disease to ground level ; e, top dressing of soil
encouraged rooting from aerial part of stem ; f, ground level.
C, transverse (across stem) section of drooping plant (A) just
above ground, natural size : g, vertical tissues apparently
healthy ; /;, woody fibres brown and diseased ; /, pith cells,
quite normal. D, section of stem of diseased plant (A) just
above ground, enlarged three diameters : j, healthy vertical or
bark cells ; k, woody fibres diseased (brown) ; /, normal (white)
pith cells. E, early or first stage of fungus, called Dlplocadlum
stage : m, mycelium or prostrate hypha ; n, conidiophore ;
o, conidium or spore. x 300. F, second stage of fungus,
termed Fusarium stage : />, mycelial thread or prostrate hypha ;
f, conidiophore ; r, conidia or spores. x 300. G, final or
resting stage of fungus : /, mycelial thread with spores in
course of development ; /, matured resting spores ; u, resting
spore germinated and pushed germ-tube. x 300.

TOMATO BLACK SPOT (Macrosporium tomato).

The disease known as " black spot " or rot, also as
" black stripe " or blotch, spreads easily, being more
or less present wherever the Tomato is cultivated. It
is caused by the parasitic fungus named Macrosporium
tomato, but is closely allied to, if not the same as, the
Potato Leaf Curl fungus, M. solani. The fruit is
most frequently attacked, but the fungus is also often
present on the stem, producing the well-known " black
stripe/' and on the leaves, causing the condition
termed " curl ".

The fungus has been regarded as a wound-parasite,
and thus gets into the tissues of the Tomato plant

268 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

through minute cracks in the cuticle or skin. This
is emphasised by the fact that the fruit is usually
affected round the style, or at the point of insertion of
the stem, where minute cracks frequently occur. The
fungus, however, appears on any part of the fruit, and
also on any portion of the stem and leaves. It appears
that the chief seats of disease are where moisture has
rested in the parts some time, and the germ-tube of a
spore of the fungus being present, may either have
entered by a minute crack in the cuticular cells or
directly pierced through the softened cuticle.

The affected part has, at first, a white blister-like
appearance, as if due to scorching or scalding, and is a
little below the general surface of the healthy part of
the stem, leaves or fruit. As the dark-coloured my-
celium of the fungus forms in the tissues, the diseased
spot assumes a dark or black colour, for the parasite
rapidly destroys the cells, and consequently the affected
part sinks, forming a depressed blotch, spot or stripe.
Later, the sunken surface becomes covered with a deli-
cate velvety pile, in places, of a brownish or blackish-
olive colour. This outgrowth is, under microscopic
examination, found to consist of closely packed, dark-
coloured conidiophores, each bearing a dark, many-
celled conidium at its tip. The conidia, when mature,
germinate quickly in water, each cell or spore producing
a germ-tube capable of infecting a Tomato if placed
on a surface susceptible to entrance.

Prevention. — All diseased parts should be cleared
away and burned, otherwise the " fruits " of the fungus

TOMATO BLACK SPOT 269

continue to be produced on shrivelled fruit, stems and
leaves. Besides, the spores persist through the winter
on fragments of stems, leaves and fruit, hence to
prevent a repetition of the disease the tops or whole
plant should be carefully collected and burnt. Seed
should not be saved from diseased fruit or even from
apparently healthy plants in the immediate neighbour-
hood of any disease. As there is danger of mycelium
becoming latent in the seed all the seeds with a dark
spot or stain in them should be rejected, only retaining
those that are sound and clear.

In the matter of cultivation avoid forcing treat-
ment such as the use of fresh or green stable or farm-
yard manure, which has a tendency to induce gross
growth and cause the stems, leaf-stalks and fruit to
crack. Do not maintain a close and moist atmos-
phere, and admit air early to dissipate moisture which
is deposited on the cooler surfaces of the plant, as
this favours the germination of the fungus spores.
Keeping the atmosphere arid and restricting the
supplies of water for a time, and then returning to
genial atmospheric conditions will with generous feed-
ing at the roots result in cracking and render the
plants very susceptible to attack. Indeed, immunity
rests mainly upon a free atmosphere without extremes
of heat and cold, moisture and dryness. Prevent
moisture condensing on fruit and do not allow water
to rest upon it for any length of time.

Thorough spraying with potassium sulphide, one
ounce to two and a half gallons of water, at frequent

270 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

intervals, prevents attack from and spread of the dis-
ease. The potassium sulphide, popularly known as
liver of sulphur, should be dissolved in a quart of hot
water, then made up to two and a half gallons with cold
water.

Ammoniacal carbonate of copper solution may also
be used as a preventive, and being a clear liquid does
not stain the fruit. Its formula is :—

Water. ..... 9 gallons.

Aqua ammonia (26° strength) . I 2 fluid ounces.
Copper carbonate I ounce.

Form the copper carbonate into a thin paste with
six fluid ounces of water, add the ammonia water slowly,
and to the deep blue clear solution thus obtained add
the water and stir well. It is sufficient in spraying to
coat the plant with the finest possible film of the solu-
tion, and not to use it after the fruit has developed to
three quarters its proper size.

THE ILLUSTRATIONS REPRESENT TOMATO BLACK SPOT.

A, affected Tomato plant : #, in setting fruit causing it to turn
black ; b, attacked stem called " black stripe," the mark running
in line of stem ; c, stripe on petiole of leaf, which also occurs
on midribs and veins of leaflets ; </, leaflets affected with " curl "
and producing brown or blackish blotches ; e, black stripe on
young fruit ; f, attack in ribs of fruit called " black stripe " ;
g, fruit attacked at eye ; h, fruit infested at heel ; /, fruit at-
tacked on side ; j9 black stripe more advanced ; kf black
blotch more developed ; /, black spot more characterised. B,
fruit affected with " black stripe " and " spot " : m, " black
stripe " ; », " black spot ". C, fruit affected at eye with blotch

B

m

-C

TOMATO BLACK SPOT.

272 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

in early stage, then resembling a blister, but depressed : 0,
blotch. D, fruit affected with black spot in an advanced
stage : /, black spot. E, Black Spot fungus (Macrosporium
tomato): f, conidia in various stages of development, x 300.
F, detached conidia of Macrosporium tomato, one germinat-
ing : r> germ tube.

TURNIP "FLY" OR "FLEA" (Phyllotreta nemorum).

The Turnip Fly or Flea is a small beetle (A, p.
278), about one and a quarter line long ; black, with a
broad yellow stripe down each wing-case (elytra).
The antennas have three joints near the head, ochre-
ous, and eight dark-coloured joints. Legs ochreous,
thighs stout, hence well adapted for jumping ; it often
takes leaps of twelve to eighteen inches. It has also
large and powerful wings (A, c) over a quarter of an
inch in expanse, therefore capable of long flights, un-
doubtedly smelling its food from a distance. It at-
tacks the young Turnips and other Brassicas, biting
and devouring their soft tissues, and lays eggs on the
second or rough leaves (B), choosing the under side.
From the eggs minute yellow grubs or larvae hatch
out in seven or eight days (C), and make mines (D)
in the leaves, feeding upon the soft tissues and corres-
pondingly injuring the plants. The grubs or larvae
are, when full grown, about two and a half lines long,
with three pairs of feet and a caudal " sucker foot,"
and have dark marks upon the anterior and posterior
parts of their bodies. In the course of five to seven
days they fall to the ground and change to pupae (E),

TURNIP "FLY" OR « FLEA " 273

from which, in about twelve days, the perfect beetles
come and proceed to attack the Turnip or other
Brassica plants. In dry and hot seasons or under
suitable conditions for increase as many as six genera-
tions may be produced during the summer.

The Turnip Fly thrives in dry, dusty and cloddy
soil, and in a dry summer causes much harm to Turnip
plants as they cannot grow away from its attacks.
Directly the leaves come from the seeds, the young
plants are eaten or riddled with holes (G, p. 27 8) and can
make no further progress, or, if they continue to grow,
they are often so weakened as to be practically worth-
less. In times of drought irretrievable mischief is done,
sowing after sowing being cleared off by the beetles in
rapid succession. The main and most dangerous
attack is when the plants are just starting and until
they are fairly in " rough leaf," yet when the weather
proves dry after the plants are in second leaf, the tops
are often so much bitten by the beetles and the mining
of the larvae that the plants do not make good roots.
Even when roots are formed and are of some size, late
generations of beetles stick to them, in some seasons
to the end of September. The flea beetle not only
attacks Turnips and Swedes, but is often very de-
structive to Rape, Mustard, Kohl-rabi, Cabbage and
other Brassicas, or cultivated Cruciferous plants. It
also lives on such weeds as Charlock, Shepherd's Purse,
and Jack-by-the-Hedge.

Two other species of flea beetles are more or less
injurious to Turnips and other plants of the same

18

274 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

natural order. Of these, Phyllotreta undulata is the
most common, being rather smaller than P. nemorum,
and the stripes on the wing-cases are somewhat dif-
ferently arranged. Phyllotreta concinna is the next
common, being brass coloured. Other species have
also been noticed as feeding on seedling Turnips, one
kind being black and dark blue above, and another
bright blue above and not so black beneath. All are
alike in their mode of life and manner of doing harm
and all must be combated.

During winter the Turnip Flea beetles harbour
under bark and other material connected with hedge-
rows and their plants, amongst fallen leaves, under
clods of earth, stubble, in heaps of collected weeds and
long strawy manure, whence they come out in fine days
to " sun " themselves. On the return of spring and
the bursting forth of vegetation into renewed life, and
till the cultivated crops are ready for them they are to
be found feeding on such common Cruciferous plants
as Charlock, Shepherd's Purse, and Jack-by- the- Hedge,
and from these pass to the better " feed " of cultivated
crops of the same order by great leaps and swift flights.

Prevention. — i. As wild Cruciferous plants, especi-
ally Charlock, encourage the flea beetles and furnish
them with food until the Turnip or other crops are
sown and ready for them in gardens and fields, it is
important that the weeds be kept down.

2. Provide a fine tilth or seed-bed, as the " flies"
are most destructive on cloddy soil ; besides, they do
not like moisture, which naturally helps the young

TURNIP "FLY" OR "FLEA" 275

plants to grow away from their foes, and it is well
known that moisture evaporates more quickly from
land that is cloddy, or rough, than from well-tilled soil.

3. Rolling down the land, or, in the case of very
small plots, beating with the back of a spade, after the
drill or sowing should be adopted, as this keeps in
moisture and levels the soil, enabling the plants to
grow away as quickly as possible. Artificial manure
mixed with well-powdered ashes, or mould, should be
drilled in, or placed in the drills with the seed, so that
it may be close to the plants to help them to grow
away as quickly as possible from the onslaught of the
beetles. The ashes and mould should be moistened.
Putting in Turnip seed with a water drill has certain
advantages, but the objection is that the moisture soon
evaporates and in case of drought the seed germinated
quickly is checked or the plants are lost. In small
plots watering the drills or, if broadcasted, the ground
before sowing, can be practised successfully ; only con-
tinue the watering after the plants appear if the
weather prove dry.

4. Plenty of seed of the preceding year's harvest
should be used, but always examined or guaranteed as
to its germinating powers and as to its freedom from
other seeds. This is a point that can hardly be in-
sisted upon too strongly. Sowing Mustard seed with
Turnip seed sometimes saves Turnip plants from
serious injury, as it germinates more quickly, and the
beetles feed on the Mustard plants instead of the
Turnips, when the weather favours the latter, for the

276 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

beetles are just as fond of Turnip as of Mustard seed-
lings, though attacking the latter because they come
up first. In dry seasons the Mustard seedling has
little value, as the beetles are rather fostered than other-
wise by the Mustard, the generations of beetles follow-
ing rapidly.

Remedies. — i. Very finely powdered lime sprinkled
on the plants when coming up and whilst damp with
dew is the oldest and most serviceable dressing when
persisted in at intervals. The writer used this for over
half a century and found it effective on fine tilth.

2. Dressings of soot, sprinkled on the plants when
the dew is on them, are of service. Soot and lime,
one bushel of soot and two bushels of lime mixed, also
form a useful dressing, applying it when the dew is on
the plants. More effective, but less useful to the
Turnips, is a dressing of wood ashes, or peat moss,
finely powdered and moistened with half a gallon of
paraffin oil per cwt. It should be distributed very
lightly over the plants. A mixture of air-slaked lime
and gas lime fresh from gasworks in equal parts, with
five pounds flowers of sulphur added to each bushel of
the mixture and well mixed, has been used to advant-
age. All the above dry substances can be put in by
horse distributors evenly and in small quantities
without water, and on a small scale by hand-worked
bellows apparatus.

3. Paraffin oil distributed by horse or hand dis-
tributors in very small quantities, so that each leaf is
sprinkled and made distasteful to the beetles. These

TURNIP " FLY " OR " FLEA " 277

" oiled " preparations act well, but must be used very
carefully as an overdose is as bad as the beetles, or
worse. Carbolic acid may be distributed in the same
way in very minute quantities, the acid being diluted
to a safe strength which must be first ascertained by ex-
periment. Quassia extract mixed with soft soap and
water is a safe and serviceable dressing. Merely coat
the plants with the finest possible film of the solution.

4. By dusting the plants with tobacco powder
whilst damp with dew, the pests are either killed or
driven away.

5. Rolling cloddy land with a light roller fre-
quently proves serviceable by disturbing the beetles,
killing some, pressing the soil about the plants and
keeping in the moisture.

6. Catch and kill them by a light wide framework
on wheels with well gas-tarred boards fastened upon
it, so as to come just over the Turnips. This is an
excellent plan, as the beetles when disturbed jump and
are caught in the tar. The tar requires to be renewed
as it gets dry, and the beetles which accumulate in
masses must be scraped off. If the machine be light,
as it should, a man pushing it will get over several
acres in a day.

THE ILLUSTRATIONS REPRESENT TURNIP " FLY " OR "FLEA" AND
ATTACK ON TURNIP.

A, the Turnip Fly : a, natural size ; £, magnified ; r, in flight,
magnified. B, portions of Turnip leaf with : d, egg of fly,
natural size ; e, the same enlarged or as seen with an ordinary
pocket lens. C, larva or grub : /, natural size ; g, magnified.

TURNIP FLEA.

WIRE-WORMS 279

D, portion of Turnip leaves showing mines formed by grub :
h, natural size ; /', magnified. E, pupa : j, natural size ; k,
much enlarged. F, Turnip seedlings not attacked by fly ; /,
f.rst or seed leaves (cotyledons) ; m, second or rough leaf. G,
seedling Turnips infested with Turnip fly : », seed leaves
eaten and perforated by fly ; o, central or rough leaves eaten
of; ^>, seedling practically destroyed by fly. H, plant in
rough leaves riddled by biting of insects and mining by larrae.

WIRE-WORMS.

Wire- worms are the larvae or grubs of beetles known
as Agriotes, Athous and Elater, belonging to the large
family of Elateridae. But those which do the most
harm to cultivated crops are species of the genus
Agriotes (Elater), namely, A. lineatus, A. obscurus,
and A. sputator.

Agriotes lineatus (A, p. 286) is three-eighths of an
inch long, and its wing-expanse is over half an inch.
Its thorax is tawny ; the wing-cases brown, with lines
of yellowish-brown. The antennae are reddish- yellow,
and the legs brown.

Agriotes obscurus (B), rather larger than A. linea-
tus, is tawny-brown in colour, with dark thorax and
reddish legs.

Agriotes sputator is not so large as A. lineatus.
It varies in colour from brownish-black to chestnut,
and has grey down upon it, with yellow antennae and
brownish-yellow legs.

These beetles are called " Skip-Jack " or " Click,"
because when one is held by the end it bends its body

280 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

and produces a clicking sound, and when placed on its
back it jumps up and makes a peculiar click. The
beetles are found under stones at the roots of grasses,
in hedges, fields and gardens. They fly well, and lay
eggs on grasses, cereals, weeds, and in the earth. The
larvae from the eggs live in the earth near the roots of
plants on which they feed. The larva or wire-worm, so
called from its likeness in toughness and shape to a piece
of wire, is from six- to seven-eighths of an inch long,
very shiny, and of a yellow colour. It has a few hairs
on its body, three pairs of four -jointed legs in the first
three segments, and a sucker foot on the terminal
segment. It has very strong jaws meeting over the
mouth, well adapted for biting roots and fibres. With
these mandibles it quickly tears away the soft parts
of the root-stems of cereals just above the roots and
kills the plants ; it also bites off the roots of various
useful crops, and its attacks in garden and field are
•more to be dreaded than most other insects. It feeds
on stems and roots at all seasons of the year, except
during very hard frosts, and lives from three to five
years in the larval or wire-worm stage, according to
circumstances, then, full-fed, it goes down deep into
the earth and makes a little oval cocoon of earth,
and changes from the larval (A, c, p. 286) to the
pupal stage (A, e) from which the beetle emerges in
two or three weeks.

The larva or wire-worm of Agriotes obscurus is
much like that of A. lineatus in shape and colour, but
slightly larger in size, and the larva of A. sputator is

WIRE- WORMS 281

smaller than that of A. lineatus, but similar in shape
and general appearance.

It is scarcely necessary to mention the crops that
are attacked by wire-worm, and it will suffice to state
that hardly any crop is free from their ravages. Cereals,
roots and vegetables of all kinds, suffer in turn.
Broken-up pasture and " seeds " or Clover-leys often
swarm with wire-worms, and on this ground the most
serious damage is done to cereals, roots and vegetable
crops, also to flower and fruit crops.

Prevention and Remedies. — The great point is so to
treat pasture and ley as to destroy eggs or wire- worms
that may be in the soil before the land is broken up.
The following procedure is advised :—

(a) Feed sheep and cattle with cake or other feeding
stuffs so that every inch of land shall be trodden and
eaten bare ; then apply a dressing of gas lime fresh
from gasworks, two and a half to five tons per acre,
thirty-five to seventy pounds per rod, spreading evenly
and leaving on the surface a month or six weeks before
ploughing, digging, or bastard trenching. This pro-
cedure should be done in late summer or autumn, always
a considerable time in advance of cropping.

(b) The practice (a) cannot always be followed on
small plots, therefore apply ten tons of lime, freshly
burned, per acre or one hundred and forty pounds per
rod, placing in small convenient heaps and cover with
earth. Allow them to remain until the lumps are
reduced to a fine powder, then spread in the hot state
over the surface. The effect of hot lime is to burn off

282 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

the grass and thus destroy the food of the wire-worm.
After a few days, plough or dig, or bastard trench
the limed land, and on the turned-up soil apply a dress-
ing of agricultural salt, ten cwt. per acre, seven
pounds per rod. This dressing not only has a bad
effect on wire-worm, but kills Couch or Twitch.
The liming and salting should be done in late summer
or autumn, some weeks before sowing or planting.

(c) Dress pasture or ley with Mustard dross, one
and a quarter cwt. per acre, fourteen ounces per rod,
half an ounce (rather less) per square yard, distribut-
ing evenly by means of a bellows apparatus, or on
small plots by a dredger, shortly in advance of
breaking up. Wire-worms are most readily affected
by Mustard dross — the refuse from Mustard mills—
but too heavy dressings are injurious.

On land infested with wire-worm the preventives
or remedies mentioned may be adopted for ridding
the land of the pests, particularly the Mustard dross
dressing, sprinkling on the surface and pointing in,
this being an excellent practice in the case of small
plots, operating shortly before cropping. Other
useful dressings are :—

(d) Kainit, five cwt. per acre, three and a half
pounds per rod, applied in autumn or late winter,
preferably in the case of land containing much decay-
ing matter in conjunction with basic cinder phosphate,
ten cwt. per acre, seven pounds per rod, digging in,
and at the time of sowing or planting applying two and
a half cwt. per acre, one and three quarter pounds per

WIRE-WORMS 283

rod, of finely crushed nitrate of soda, but keeping the
preparation from direct contact with seed or plant.

(<?) A mixture of equal parts air-slaked lime and
soot by measure, applying half a pound of the mixture
per square yard, and digging in with a fork so as to
mix it as evenly as possible with the soil.

(/) Sow Mustard on the infested land and when the
plant is coming into flower plough or dig in the crop.
This is excellent as a green crop manuring. In the
case of infested crops the best remedy is dressing
with Mustard dross, one and a quarter cwt. per acre,
fourteen ounces per rod, applying when the tops of
the plants are dry and keeping as much from them
as possible consistent with an even distribution over
the whole ground. A light hoeing or pointing in
where practicable will be an advantage. Care must be
taken not to give a too heavy dressing or the plants
will be more or less injured.

A broadcast application of five to ten cwt. per
acre, three and a half to seven pounds per rod, of
rape dust is an old and well-known temporary
remedy for wire-worm, as the grubs of the Click
beetles are attracted by it and eat it greedily in pre-
ference to the crop. The rape dust, especially that
of Indian or Kurrachee cake, which is formed from
Mustard seed, both fertilises the land and attracts the
wire-worm from the plants. Rape " nuts," the rape-
cake crushed into about half-inch lumps, applied at
the rate of five cwt. per acre, three and a half pounds
per rod, and mixed with soil have been found useful,

284 VEGETABLE FOES AND DISEASES

the wire-worms dying where Kurrachee cake was used
but not with true rape cake. As the wire-worms
are more active in the spring months after a long frost
than in a mild winter, then is the best time to use rape
meal or nuts, preferably in advance or at the time of
sowing or planting crops. If applied in preparing
the land for cropping, say a week or ten days in
advance, the wire- worm will be attracted to the rape
meal or nuts. Dress the land before sowing seeds or
setting plants with nitrate of soda, crushed fine, two
and a half cwt. per acre, one and three-quarter
pound per rod, distributing evenly when the ground
is moist, but with a prospect of fine weather or only
slight showers for a few days.

Kainit, also crushed fine, may be used in a
similar way to the nitrate of soda at the rate of three
and a quarter cwt. per acre, two and a quarter pounds
per rod. When these substances are used separately
there is a danger in getting too much growth from
the nitrate of soda, and too little by the use of the
kainit. In cases of land broken up from old pasture,
or badly infested with grubs and wire-worms, the
separate quantities are not only insufficient, but not
the correct thing for the crop, say Potatoes or
Tomatoes. In that case one and three-quarter cwt.
nitrate of soda and three and a quarter cwt. kainit mixed
per acre, or three and a half pounds per rod, will be
deadly to the pests and beneficial to the crop. Half
the quantity suffices on ordinary land, and the
mixture is just as good for Tomatoes as for Potatoes.

WIRE-WORMS 285

Traps of Carrot, Mangold- Wurzel, Potato and
Swede Turnip have been found of great service in
getting rid of wire-worms. Place pieces of these roots,
or of rape cake, close to the infested plants. These
Carrot, Mangold-Wurzel, Potato or rape-cake traps
should be placed close to the centre of the plant or
between the rows, about four or five inches deep, this
including the bait. Examine every morning for a
time, and then once or twice a week, taking out and
destroying the wire- worms on each occasion. The
traps should be continued during the spring and
summer and until winter on badly infested land, and
remember that the traps will be likely to be more
attractive when vegetation is bursting forth into
renewed life in spring. As without guides it is
difficult to find the traps, white sticks or wooden
skewers with points and thick heads should be used
in the case of Carrot, Mangold-Wurzel, Potato and
Swede Turnip traps. The sticks show where they are,
and enable them to be pulled easily from the soil. In
the case of rape-cake traps galvanised iron skewers
should be used, and these baits, all points considered,
are the best for wire-worms.

CLICK OR SKIP-JACK BEETLES, WIRE-WORM, INFESTED POTATO SET
AND BAITS.

A, common Click or Skip-Jack Beetle, Agriotes (Elater) lineatus :
ay natural size ; b, the same magnified ; c9 larva commonly
called wire-worm, natural size ; d, grub of Click Beetle mag-
nified ; c, pupa of Agriotes lineatus, natural size ; fy pupa
enlarged. B, largest Click Beetle, Agriotes obscurus : g,

CLICK BEETLES AND WIRE-WORMS.

WIRE-WORMS 287

natural size ; ^, the same magnified. C, lesser Click Beetle,
Agriotes sputator : /, natural size, ; j, the same magnified.
D, attack of wire- worm on Potato set : £, parts eaten of tuber ;
/, grubs in sprouts or growing stems. E, Carrot trap : m,
portion of Carrot, length about two inches ; », pointed stick,
thrust into bait and long enough to reach above ground, both
indicating position and serving as handle to lift bait for
examination ; ot hole in which bait is inserted and surrounded
and covered with soil loosely about an inch ; /, solid or ordinary
soil. F, Rape cake bait : ^, piece of rape cake, about two
inches square ; r, iron skewer thrust into bait after drilling
hole with gimlet or auger ; j, soil covering bait about one
inch. G, rape cake " nuts " scattered on surface of soil to
attract wire-worm from growing crop. H, rape dust sprinkled
on soil to entice wire-worm.

CHAPTER VIII.
COOKING VEGETABLES.

ALTHOUGH since "dressed" vegetables have been
allowed a course to themselves on the well-ordered
dinner menu, this branch of cookery has grown in im-
portance, the average English cook is still more or less
ignorant of the proper methods of preparing and
serving vegetables to the best advantage. I do not
propose to give any recipes for elaborate entremets, but
merely to take each of our principal English vegetables
in turn and to show how they should be cooked in a
plain and palatable form.

ARTICHOKES.

Jerusalem Artichokes. — This is by no means made
the most of by the average cook, and it is the rule,
rather than the exception, to have it served merely
covered with a plain " melted butter " sauce, whereas
there are at least a dozen ways in which it may be sent
to the table. Before giving a few particulars on the
subject I must give directions for preparing the vege-
table in the orthodox way. Wash and peel the Arti-
chokes, then shape them neatly and throw each as it is

288

ARTICHOKES 289

done into cold salted water to which a squeeze of lemon
juice, or a small quantity of vinegar, has been added
to keep them white. Young Artichokes should be
placed for cooking in boiling water, slightly salted, but
when they begin to get old or there is any suspicion that
they have been touched by frost, they should be put
into warm water. Drain them as soon as they are
tender, which, if they are fresh and free from frost, will
take about half an hour. A suitable substitute for the
more ordinary white sauce is a rich sauce made with
equal quantities of chicken broth (flavoured of course
with vegetables) and milk and finished with the yolks
of one or two eggs beaten up with a tablespoonful of
cream. The same sauce flavoured with grated Parme-
san cheese is also to be recommended, but nothing is
nicer than really well-made Hollandaise sauce. Roasted
Artichokes are suitable for serving with roast beef or
mutton ; parboil the Artichokes in salted water, then
bake them in a tin containing some hot beef dripping,
and cook them in a moderately quick oven, basting
them frequently. Partly cooked Artichokes if cut into
rather thin slices can also be fried in butter. If they
are required as a garnish for a dish of fillets of beef
or mutton cutlets serve them in the form of fritters.
Boil the Artichokes until they are just tender, without
being soft, cut them into slices and dip them into a
light batter and fry them in a bath of boiling fat.
Artichoke souffle is useful to serve as a vegetable en-
tremets at a time when other vegetables are scarce.
The Artichokes after being boiled and thoroughly

19

2 90 COOKING VEGETABLES

drained should be passed through a sieve, then moistened
with a rich white sauce (allow half a pint to two pounds
of sieved Artichokes), seasoned with celery salt, pepper
and nutmeg, and mixed first with the yolks of three
raw eggs (to two pounds of the vegetable) and then
with the whites whisked to a very stiff froth. Some
warm butter should be poured over the top of the
souffle, and it should be lightly sprinkled with fine
dry bread crumbs before being baked in a quick
oven for from fifteen to twenty minutes. Perhaps
the delicate flavour of the Artichoke is never more
appreciated than when it is served au gratln. A
puree should be prepared as for a souffle, only the
eggs should be omitted and it should be delicately
flavoured with grated Parmesan cheese ; it is then
placed in a liberally buttered gratin dish and sprinkled
with Parmesan mixed with an equal quantity of
mild Cheddar and baked until the cheese is a golden
brown.

Globe Artichokes. — These are considered by epicures
the most delicate of all vegetables ; they should be
cooked as soon as possible after they are cut, and when
they have been trimmed and thoroughly cleansed,
boiled in slightly salted water until the leaves can be
easily detached. Drain the Artichokes on a hot soft
cloth and serve them with melted fresh butter seasoned
with salt, pepper and a few drops of lemon juice or
tarragon vinegar. The butter should be heated, but
it should not be allowed to boil, and the sauceboat in
which it is served should be very hot. There are

ARTICHOKES 291

numerous ways in which Globe Artichokes may be
served; for instance, instead of being boiled entiredivide
them into four quarters, remove the choke, and cut the
leaves, leaving only about a quarter of an inch. Place
each piece as it is trimmed into cold acidulated water
to prevent any discolouration, and then cook the Arti-
chokes in salted water to which a small quantity of
lemon juice has been added ; when they are tender
drain them and serve with a rich white mushroom
sauce, Bearnaise bechamel, maitre d hotel, or thick
brown sauce. The vegetable may also be scalloped ;
place it in a small buttered pie or gratin dish and mask
it with some good white sauce, then cover the top with
finely sifted bread crumbs (seasoned with salt and
pepper) and small pieces of butter, and bake in a quick
oven until brown ; if preferred the crumbs may be
mixed with an equal quantity of mild grated cheese.
If only the bottom portion of the Artichoke is required
(and it is useful for many entries and savouries) remove
all the leaves and the choke and trim the little green
cups, then boil them in salted water untifrthey are quite
tender.

Chinese Artichokes. — The peculiarly delicate nutty
flavour of this comparatively new vegetable is perhaps
best preserved when it is boiled until tender (in salted
boiling water) and served with a delicate white sauce,
such as that recommended for Jerusalem Artichokes.
It can also be fried, after being boiled until just tender,
and it may be used in a salad with other vegetables,
while it makes a novel and delicious curry.

292 COOKING VEGETABLES

ASPARAGUS.

As a rule the appearance and flavour of this delicate
vegetable suffer during the process of cooking by
being placed under water in the old-fashioned Asparagus
kettle or a stewpan ; by this method the green tips are
cooked before the hard white stalks have a chance of
being tender, and they must necessarily be more or
less crushed by their own weight. A specially con-
structed saucepan is required to cook Asparagus satis-
factorily ; this keeps the heads out of the water and
they are gradually cooked by steam which allows
time for the remaining portion to become soft. As-
paragus, when cooked, should be carefully drained
on a hot cloth, and it may be served with melted fresh
butter (as recommended for Globe Artichokes), Hollan-
daise Eearnaise, or cream sauce ; the latter is merely
boiled cream slightly thickened with a small quantity
of white roux (butter and flour cooked together
without becoming brown), seasoned with salt, pepper
and a dust of castor sugar and flavoured with tarragon
vinegar. If it is to be served cold (or iced) mayonnaise
sauce or slightly whipped cream flavoured with tarra-
gon vinegar is equally suitable.

BEANS.

French Beans. — These, like all other green vege-
tables, should be cooked uncovered in plenty of boil-
ing water seasoned with salt and a little castor sugar ;

BEANS 293

a pinch of carbonate of soda may be added to preserve
the colour. When the Beans are cooked and drained
they can be served with melted butter sauce enriched
by the addition of the yolk of an egg beaten up with
a tablespoonful of cream (or milk), and flavoured with
a few drops of lemon juice and a judicious seasoning
of salt, pepper and castor sugar. Or the same sauce
may be used with the addition of a dessertspoonful
(to half a pint of sauce) of finely chopped parsley.
A creamy onion sauce is also served with French
Beans and also a rich white sauce flavoured with Par-
mesan. Provided the Beans are young there is no
more suitable dressing for them than maitre Jhotel
butter, which seems to bring out their flavour. The
latter is best preserved by stewing the Beans (when
they are quite young) very gently in white stock
flavoured with vegetables, a little butter should be
added to the stock, and when they are cooked they
should be taken from the stock, which should be
thickened, preferably with the yolks of one or two
eggs and a little cream, and then strained over them.
Broad Beans. — The majority of cooks make the
error of serving these Beans in their skins ; unless
they are very young and small the skins should al-
ways be removed, for they are indigestible and they
help to spoil the flavour of the Beans. If boiled in
an abundance of salted water (which should be quite
boiling when they are put in) until the skins begin
to crack the latter can be easily removed, the Beans
may then be masked with warm butter seasoned with

294 COOKING VEGETABLES

salt, pepper and a very little sugar, or they may be
served with almost any kind of white sauce. When
no longer young, Broad Beans, after x being boiled,
may be passed through a wire sieve, then seasoned
with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg and heated in
butter with a few spoonfuls of cream or thick white
sauce.

BEETROOT.

Although the Beet usually appears in some form
of salad it is not to be despised as a hot vegetable, and
it should be sent to the table with roast beef or mutton.
It is a mistake to boil a Beetroot, the flavour is far
better if it is baked in a moderately hot oven, and the
juice is not so liable to escape during the process of
cooking. In any case care should be taken not to
break the skin or both the colour and flavour will
suffer considerably. If the Beetroot is to be served
hot cut it into moderately thin slices, after the skin
has been removed, and reheat it in a thick white sauce
coloured with a few drops of carmine the flavour of
which has been sharpened by the addition of a small
quantity of tarragon vinegar or lemon-juice. Horse-
radish sauce is especially suitable for serving with
Beetroot either cold as a salad (when a thick mayon-
naise should be used as the foundation of the sauce)
or hot made thus : Put a small teacupful of grated
horse-radish into half a pint of milk and let it simmer
until it is tender. Beat up the yolks of two eggs
with two teaspoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, add them

BRUSSELS SPROUTS 295

to the milk and stir over a low fire until it thickens,
then remove the pan at once from the stove ; season
the sauce with salt, pepper, a pinch of castor sugar
and a little grated nutmeg and add half an ounce of
fresh butter divided into small pieces. Heat the slices
of Beetroot with a little butter, then arrange them on
a hot dish and pour the sauce over them.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS.

If practicable, Sprouts should be steamed and not
boiled ; by the former process of cooking much less
water is necessarily absorbed than by the latter, and
many valuable properties of the vegetable are retained
which would be lost by boiling ; moreover, another
advantage is that the Sprouts can be more easily and
thoroughly drained. The Sprouts should be looked
at occasionally so that they may be taken up at the
right moment, which is as soon as they are tender
without being overdone. When they are free from
moisture pour a liberal supply of melted fresh butter
over them, which has been seasoned with salt, pepper,
and a very little powdered mace and heated in a small
saucepan, or parsley sauce can be used instead of
butter. Small Sprouts which are quite young may
with advantage be added to a salad composed of
various kinds of cooked vegetables. They also make
an excellent puree if passed through a sieve and re-
heated with a small quantity of white sauce and
butter, and may be used as a support for fried cutlets.

296 COOKING VEGETABLES

CABBAGE.

The above remarks with regard to the advantages
of steaming apply to this vegetable also ; but in the
event of a Cabbage being boiled the following direc-
tions should be carried out. When the Cabbage has
been trimmed and washed it should be soaked for
about twenty minutes in salted water to which a small
proportion of vinegar has been added to free it from
any insects which may still be hidden among the leaves.
Then blanch it by immersing it in a saucepan of boil-
ing water for five minutes and plunging it into a basin
of cold water ; as soon as it has cooled drain the
Cabbage and place it in a saucepan containing plenty
of fresh boiling water to which salt and sugar (allow
a tablespoonful of the former and a teaspoon ful of the
latter to a gallon of water) and a small pinch of carbon-
ate of soda have been added and let it cook uncovered
for about twenty-five minutes. Test it to ascertain
if it is done and, after draining it in a colander, press
it well to get rid of all the water and serve it in either
of the following ways : Place it on a very hot dish
and cut it into quarters ; have ready in a small sauce-
pan some warm butter seasoned with pepper, salt and
nutmeg, pour this over each piece of Cabbage and
serve it with as little delay as possible. Or turn the
Cabbage from the colander on to a board and chop it
until it is quite fine, then reheat it either in plain
butter, seasoning it to taste, or in a small quantity
of parsley sauce or broth which has been slightly

CARROTS 297

thickened. The last suggestion is to make it into
cakes, thus : Chop the Cabbage and mix it with about
half the quantity of creamy mashed potato ; season it
with salt, pepper and a little nutmeg, and form the
mixture into little flat cakes on a floured board ;
brush them over with butter and bake them in a
buttered tin in a quick oven until they are evenly
browned.

CARROTS.

Although so largely used for the purpose of flavour-
ing stock of all kinds, in conjunction with other vege-
tables, and also as a mixed garnish, Carrots are seldom
served in England except plainly boiled, with perhaps a
little parsley sauce poured over them ; yet there are pos-
sibilities in the Carrot of which the inexperienced cook
knows nothing. Large Carrots may be satisfactorily
stewed by the following method. Cleanse them with
a vegetable brush, then blanch them in boiling water
and scrape off the outer skin and cut them into mod-
erately thick slices. Butter a stewpan (using about
an ounce of butter for the purpose) and put in the
Carrots, sprinkle a little powdered sugar, salt, pepper
and a very little powdered mace over them, then cover
them with boiling stock and let them cook very gently
until they are tender, when they should be taken from
the pan and kept hot. Measure half a pint of the
stock in which they were cooked, add an equal quantity
of boiling milk to it and thicken it with a tablespoon-
ful of fine flour which has been smoothly mixed with

29 8 COOKING VEGETABLES

a small quantity of cream or milk ; stir the sauce
until it is perfectly smooth, then add a tablespoonful
of chopped parsley and after removing the pan from
the stove add, by degrees, a tablespoonful of fines herbes
vinegar and pour the sauce over the Carrots. Carrots
which are not young can be utilised for a puree. After
cleaning them thoroughly, scrape or grate off the red
outer portion, which is always the best part of the
Carrot, and cook it in boiling stock, using some of the
fat of the latter or butter ; when done the stock should
be absorbed. Pass the puree through a sieve, reheat
it and season it, then add a small quantity of boiling
cream which has been thickened in a separate sauce-
pan with flour and butter which have been cooked
together for a few minutes ; mould the puree neatly
on a hot dish and scatter a little finely chopped parsley
over it. There are many ways of cooking small early
Carrots, and the following are only a few examples.
Trim them, after they are cleansed, so that they are
a uniform size in cone or pear shape or leave them
round. Then place them in boiling water, seasoned
with salt and sugar and enriched with a small quantity
of good dripping, or the fat from the surface of some
beef stock, until they are tender ; drain them and put
them into a saucepan containing plenty of butter and
some chopped parsley ; add salt, pepper, a little grated
nutmeg and a few drops of tarragon vinegar and serve
them very hot. Young Carrots may also be stewed
according to the directions given above, but if possible
veal stock should be used. When they are done take

CAULIFLOWER 299

them from the stock and keep them hot while the
sauce is made. Boil about three-quarters of a pint of
the stock, and stir into it the yolks of two eggs which
have been beaten up with a gill of thick cream ; the
instant the sauce thickens remove it from the stove,
add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley and pour it
over the Carrots, and serve them garnished with little
croutons. Glazed Carrots are an effective garnish for
braised fillets of beef, noisettes of mutton, etc. Trim
the Carrots, and blanch them for ten minutes in boil-
ing salted water ; drain them and put them into a
saucepan with a liberal quantity of butter, and stir over
the fire until they begin to brown. Then take them
out of the butter and put them into another saucepan
containing sufficient boiling stock to half cover the
Carrots ; season them with salt, pepper and sugar and
stir them occasionally so that they may be evenly
cooked ; when they are done add a small piece of meat
glaze to the reduced stock ; shake the pan, so that the
Carrots are evenly coated by the glaze and use them
at once.

CAULIFLOWER.

Scrupulous care is required to rid this vegetable
of caterpillars during the summer months. The
outer leaves should be taken off, the stalk shortened
and cut across, and after washing it well and letting
cold water from a tap run freely through it, the Cauli-
flower should be left in salted water to which plenty
of vinegar has been added for half an hour. Then

300 COOKING VEGETABLES

tie it in a thick piece of muslin and plunge it into
boiling water which has been seasoned with salt and a
small proportion of sugar, and cook it uncovered for
about twenty minutes if quite young, or rather longer
if it is not tender at the end of that time. Take it out
of the muslin and drain it on a hot cloth and serve
it with ordinary " melted butter " sauce flavoured
with a little tarragon vinegar or lemon-juice, or if pre-
ferred tomato or Hollandaise sauce may be used.
The remains of a cooked Cauliflower can be baked
thus : Divide it into branches, dip them into warm
butter and place them on a well-buttered fireproof
china dish ; season some grated Parmesan cheese with
celery, salt and black pepper and scatter it thickly over
the Cauliflower, then bake it in a quick oven until it is
lightly browned. Another way of utilising a Cauli-
flower which has been boiled or steamed is in the form
of fritters ; it must be divided as in the above recipe
and then dipped into a thick batter and fried in an
abundance of boiling fat.

CELERY.

It is surprising, considering how delicate and whole-
some this vegetable is when cooked, that in many
households it is never served except in its raw state.
Stewed Celery may be served with white or brown
sauce and should be prepared as follows : After re-
moving the outer portion and scrubbing the Celery
with a brush divide it, and, after washing it thoroughly,

CUCUMBERS 301

cut it into pieces of a convenient length (about five
inches) and tie it into bundles. Have ready a sauce-
pan of boiling water, put in the Celery and let it boil
for ten minutes, then drain it, and, if it is to be served
with white sauce, stew it gently in milk, or, on the
other hand, in stock until it is tender. Keep it hot
while the sauce is made by thickening the milk with
flour and butter ; add salt, pepper and a little nutmeg
and strain the sauce over the Celery. Make a thick
brown sauce, using some delicately flavoured soup
stock, and after draining the Celery from the stock in
which it was cooked arrange it on a hot dish and pour
the sauce over it. Scalloped Celery is to be recom-
mended ; in this case the Celery must be cooked, cut
into fairly small pieces and mixed with a rich white
sauce ; it is then placed in a buttered dish, covered
with bread crumbs and baked in a quick oven ; if the
flavour of cheese is not objected to a little grated
Parmesan mixed with the crumbs is an improvement.
Fried Celery is suitable for serving with mutton cutlets ;
it must be boiled until tender, then cut into pieces of
about two inches in length, and dipped into beaten egg
and covered with fine dry bread crumbs, and fried in a
wire basket.

CUCUMBERS.

Although indigestible when served in the form of
a salad, Cucumbers are quite the reverse when cooked.
They should be peeled and cut up lengthwise, and,
after the seeds are removed, they should be boiled

302 COOKING VEGETABLES

until tender in salted water. Drain the Cucumbers
very thoroughly on a cloth and serve them with any
delicate white sauce such as those recommended for As-
paragus. A small Cucumber, after being peeled and
partially cooked, may be hollowed out with a veget-
able scoop, then filled with a savoury mince (white
meat should be used), and after closing the end se-
curely with the piece which was removed, braised
until tender and served with brown or white sauce
poured over it.

ENDIVE.

This vegetable, like Lettuce, is seldom used in Eng-
land except for salads, whereas it is excellent if, after it
is cooked, it is prepared and served in the same way as
Spinach. It should be cooked until tender in plenty of
boiling salted water which will take about half an hour
or rather less.

LEEKS.

The cheapness of the Leek perhaps accounts for
the little consideration it receives at the hands of the
British cook, except for the purpose of flavouring
stock. It is unquestionably a wholesome vegetable,
and if cooked (tied in neat bundles) in the same way
as Celery and served with a rich creamy sauce it is
equally delicate.

PARSNIPS.

The directions given for cooking Carrots may be
followed for Parsnips.

POTATOES 303

PEAS.

Put a saucepan containing a quart of cold water
on the stove, add a teaspoonful of castor sugar, a tea-
spoonful of salt, a quarter of a teaspoonful of carbonate
of soda and a small bunch of mint ; as soon as it boils
put in a pint of shelled Peas, which have been well
washed in cold water to which a small quantity of
powdered borax has been added, and let them boil
rapidly, without covering the pan, until they are done.
Melt an ounce of butter in a saucepan, and, after
draining the Peas in a colander, turn them into the pan,
scatter a little castor sugar and salt over them and turn
them carefully in the pan with a wooden spoon for a
few minutes and serve them very hot. Peas may also
be cooked without water in the following manner.
Place a Gourmet Boila in a saucepan of boiling water
and melt an ounce of butter in it, then add a few leaves
of mint and a pint of freshly shelled Peas ; turn them
over with a wooden spoon so that they are coated with
the butter and while doing so sprinkle over them a
teaspoonful of powdered sugar which has been mixed
with half the quantity of salt and a little white pepper.
Then place a piece of thick buttered paper over the
Peas, cover the jar and put the lid on the saucepan ;
if the Peas are young they should be done in half an
hour.

POTATOES.

To ensure Potatoes being thoroughly cleansed they
should be scrubbed with a vegetable brush before being

3o4 COOKING VEGETABLES

cooked. The flavour and goodness are best preserved
by steaming them, and there are several good appliances
to be had for this purpose. When cooked by this
means the skin is not removed until the Potato is ready.
A saucepan containing a small quantity of butter should
be placed on the stove, and each Potato should be put
into it as it is peeled to keep hot until all are ready.
If Potatoes are peeled in a raw state the skin should be
removed as thinly as possible for the best portion of
the tuber is to be found just under the skin, and apart
from the difference in the flavour if this is removed,
Potatoes break much more readily during the process of
boiling. Unless they are required for soup, Potatoes
should not be cut up before being cooked, as they absorb
an unnecessary quantity of water and are deprived
of the greater portion of their soluble salts. It is
important to add salt (allow a large tablespoonful to
half a gallon of water) to the water, as it raises the
temperature and helps to keep the outside of the
Potatoes firm, also plenty of water should be used on
account of the quantity of starch they contain. The
water should be cold when the Potatoes are put into it
(unless they are new, when boiling water should be
used), and it should gradually be brought to boiling
point and not allowed to go below it until the Potatoes
are done. They should be tested with a skewer and,
directly it will go through them easily, they should be
drained in a colander, then returned to the empty sauce-
pan, covered with a slightly damp cloth and placed on
a warm part of the stove where they will keep hot

SEAKALE 305

and get thoroughly dry. Potatoes which are baked
in their "jackets" are often spoiled through being over-
cooked. The oven should be hot (without being
fierce) when they are put in, and they should be turned
from time to time, and shortly before they are ready
they should be pierced with a skewer which will allow
the steam to escape. Moderately large Potatoes take
about two hours to cook in an even temperate heat.
Baked Potatoes can be more quickly and perfectly
cooked in a French earthenware receptacle sold under
the name of the " Diable Rousset ".

SALSIFY.

Place each piece of Salsify (which should be about
three inches in length) as it is scraped into cold water
to which a little vinegar or lemon -juice has been added
to prevent its turning brown. Add a tablespoonful of
lemon-juice to a quart of water, also a teaspoonful of
salt and a tablespoonful of butter or beef dripping, and
when the water boils put in the Salsify and let it cook
gently until it is quite tender. Then drain it and
serve it with melted butter or some richer white sauce
poured over it. Cooked Salsify may also be dipped
into butter and fried.

SEAKALE.

This should be prepared and served in the same
way as Celery, and it may also be iced (like Asparagus)
and sent to the table with mayonnaise or cream sauce.

20

3o6 COOKING VEGETABLES

SPINACH.

Remove the stalks and imperfect leaves and wash
the Spinach thoroughly so that no grit remains, then
drain it and give it a final washing in salted water and
put it wet in a stewpan (without any water), and let
it cook uncovered until it is tender ; it must be
turned once or twice with a wooden spoon, and will
take from ten to fifteen minutes. When done press
it (preferably in a Spinach strainer which is made with
a presser) so as to abstract all the moisture, then chop
it until it is quite fine and rub it through a wire sieve.
Put the Spinach into a saucepan and add sufficient
thick white sauce to moisten it, season it with salt,
pepper, sugar and nutmeg and stir it over the fire
until it is thoroughly hot and almost dry, then add a
good-sized piece of butter or a tablespoonful or two of
thick cream ; arrange it neatly on a hot dish and
garnish it with sippets of fried bread.

TURNIPS.

The same methods as those recommended for
cooking Carrots may be applied to Turnips.

VEGETABLE MARROWS.

It is advisable to steam Vegetable Marrows in pre-
ference to boiling them ; they should be washed and
dried and after being placed in a steamer a little coarse
salt should be sprinkled over them. If young the skin

TOMATOES 307

should not be removed until after they are cooked,
when they must be cut up neatly and the seeds taken
out. They may be served with any delicately flavoured
white or brown sauce, and they may also be scalloped
according to the directions given for scalloped Celery.

TOMATOES.

The skin of Tomatoes should always be removed
as it is very indigestible. This may easily be done if
they are first placed in boiling water for a few seconds.
It is important when cooking Tomatoes to serve them
as soon as they are ready, otherwise the flavour will
be spoilt, therefore when baking Tomatoes cook them
in a buttered tin, baste them frequently with butter
seasoned with salt, pepper and a dust of sugar and
watch them so that they are taken from the oven the
moment they are ready ; this will prevent their break-
ing or having a shrivelled appearance. Baked Tomatoes
may be served with the butter in which they have been
cooked poured over them and a sprinkle of finely
chopped parsley, or they may be masked with brown
sauce. Fried Tomatoes need great care to prevent
them from becoming too soft. Firm Tomatoes of
an even size should be selected, and they should be cut
into moderately thick slices and quickly fried in boiling
butter, or if intended for a garnish, they may be coated
with egg and bread crumbs before being fried, in which
case they have a much better appearance. Grilled
Tomatoes usually served with fillets of beef are by no

3o8 COOKING VEGETABLES

means easy to cook satisfactorily as they break so
readily, for this reason it is well to make an exception
and leave the skins on. The Tomatoes should be
dipped into warm butter and grilled on a well- buttered
gridiron over a quick clear fire ; they should be small
and not over ripe, and, provided the fire is good, they
should not take more than from six to ten minutes
(according to their size) to cook.

JEANNE JARDINE.

CHAPTER IX.

FRENCH COOKERY OF VEGETABLES.

VEGETABLES, it must be admitted, do not receive trie
same consideration in England as in France. If we
look for the cause of this unreasonable neglect we
find it in the ignorance of the cook ; in her inability
to understand the value of the material she has in
hand ; in her supercilious designation of all vege-
tables as " greens " with the exception of Peas, Beans
and Potatoes ; and of her contempt for any food that
is not animal. She has the opinion — so common to
the working classes — that there is no salvation beyond
beef.

That vegetables should form a large part of our
diet is acknowledged by hygienists ; not exclusively
as some people assert, but certainly in larger propor-
tions than the majority of us consider necessary. If
in France the vegetable holds a high position in the
composition of the daily menu, we must attribute it
to the fact that the French people, even in the smallest
villages, have a natural taste for cooking, and have dis-
covered that a vegetable, however fresh and well grown,
is insipid if simply boiled in water. Those who have
travelled in France will know that almost every pro-

309

3io FRENCH COOKERY OF VEGETABLES

vince has a special mode of preparing vegetables ;
some with cream, some with wine, others with herbs,
others again with oil and garlic. In Paris, however,
where the cooking of vegetables is almost a fine art,
the latter ingredients are never used, and are only to
be met with in special restaurants frequented by natives
of Marseilles and Bordeaux.

Most vegetables are prepared in a variety of
forms, and it is no uncommon thing in France to find
in one menu a vegetable soup, a vegetable served as
a course by itself, and a vegetable salad, in addition to
those used to garnish. Even in the matter of garnish-
ing the Peas, Beans, Cauliflowers, Artichokes, etc.,
are not merely boiled and served without seasoning
—as they are by the majority of English cooks — but
each vegetable is turned in butter, and salted and
peppered before being placed around the dish.

I remember being invited to the inauguration of
a celebrated restaurant in London not many years
ago. The manager, with pride, informed me that I
should taste as good a dinner there as in any of the
famous establishments in Paris. Certainly the table
was beautifully laid. Flowers and electric lights,
dainty glass and china, and all the accessories that
make an English dinner-table so attractive, indicated
excessive refinement. The menu was perfect — on
paper. All the delicacies of the season were enumer-
ated. The soup was excellent, the fish good, and
when the entree of chicken was presented, tastefully
dressed with Mushrooms and Artichokes in fantastic

MAKING OF SOUPS 311

shapes, I certainly acknowledged I had rarely seen a
more artistically arranged bird, and was prepared for
something remarkable in the way of cuisine. But
here came the disappointment, for the vegetables that
looked so tempting had been simply boiled in water
without salt and placed around the chicken like Parsley
without any preparation ; placed there simply to please
the eye. That these vegetables could have been made
an appetising part of the entree never seemed to have
entered the cook's mind nor the minds of my English
friends who were partaking of them. No French
cook would have been guilty of such a flagrant mis-
take. It required but to dress these Mushrooms and
Artichokes in the every-day manner common to the
most ordinary French maid-of-all-work, to have con-
verted this chicken entree into a dish fit for a king.

French cooking is essentially practical and econ-
omical, especially in regard to vegetables, and it is the
object of this chapter to point out the various uses of
vegetables with their modes of preparation. Where
economy is most noticeable is in the

MAKING OF SOUPS.

In England the idea of a vegetable soup is a
puree, i.e., the passing of the cooked vegetable through
a sieve. In France the water that has served to boil
Asparagus, White Haricot Beans, Cauliflower, Cabbage,
etc., is the principal element in the every-day soup,
and the vegetable itself is served as a course.

3i2 FRENCH COOKERY OF VEGETABLES

The commonest soup is the one called soupe-a-
Foignon, and although to English ears it may not
sound very inviting, to English palates it is very
enjoyable.

The so upe-a-F oignon can be made with the water
in which either Asparagus, White Beans, Cauliflower
or Cabbages have been cooked, or simply with plain
water ; the advantage of the vegetable broth is to
impart a more agreeable flavour. Cut a couple of
large Onions into very small pieces and throw them
into a saucepan, fry them well, with hot butter.
When nearly brown add a teaspoonful of flour, pepper
salt and add the vegetable broth or boiling water.
(This mixture boils for a few moments until the
onions are quite soft.) In the meantime about a
quarter of a pound of Gruyere cheese is grated into
the soup tureen, an egg broken therein and some
little squares of fried bread added. Gradually the
boiling broth is poured into the tureen, while the
cheese etc., is continually stirred with a wooden
spoon. If the water has been well peppered and
salted, this soup will be found delicious.

Soups can be made from every description of
vegetables, with or without the addition of " stock ".
As a general rule the vegetables alone give the flavour
to the broth. The invariable custom in household
cooking is to start the making of the soup by frying
three or four Onions cut into small pieces in a good-
sized lump of butter, and the extra flavouring and
thickening is obtained by breaking one or two eggs in

MAKING OF SOUPS 313

the soup tureen, and adding butter. To thoroughly
explain the system of vegetable soups it is necessary
to give a few recipes.

Potato soup — called in France Potage Parmentier —
is a favourite with all classes, and, if carefully made,
can be served at any dinner. A sufficient quantity
of Potatoes are put into a saucepan with water and
salt, and cut in halves or quarters, according to size.
When they are cooked they are passed through a
colander, with a pestle, and placed again upon the
fire with the water in which they have boiled. A
minute before serving a piece of butter the size of an
egg is added, likewise two large spoonfuls of cream,
some finely chopped chervil, and some fried squares
of bread. The latter are cut into little dice, fried in
butter, and put into the tureen before the soup is
poured into it.

French pea-soup, or Potage Saint-Germain, is a 'puree
of dried or fresh Peas, with the water in which they
have boiled added to them, and seasoned with salt and
pepper. Into this soup pour a teaspoonful of tapioca
for each person, and a cupful of cream just before
serving. In summer, when Peas are plentiful, a certain
quantity of them are kept whole (not made into a. puree}
and added at the last moment to give the soup a more
tempting appearance.

Tomatoes also make an excellent soup, and the
popular way of preparing the Potage-aux-tomates is to
take four or five of the ripe fruits and place them on a
saucepan with butter, salt, pepper, thyme, laurel-leaf, a

3H FRENCH COOKERY OF VEGETABLES

bunch of parsley, and an onion cut in small pieces.
Add a little flour and pass this mixture through a sieve
to reduce it to a puree. In another saucepan boil some
rice — about a spoonful per person — let it cook for an
hour and then add the Tomato puree. Before serving
put a piece of butter into the liquid after it has been
taken off the fire and sprinkle the soup, when in the
tureen, with finely chopped parsley.

Another excellent soup, also made with Tomatoes,
is the Potage Saint-Denis. This requires a pound of
white Haricot Beans, half a pound of French Beans (or
Scarlet Runners), three large Potatoes, three Tomatoes,
butter, pepper and salt. The Haricot Beans are put in
a saucepan full of cold water, and when almost cooked
the French Beans are added cut into small pieces, also
the Potatoes and the Tomatoes. When the last two
ingredients are done they are removed from the sauce-
pan, passed through a colander and put into the soup
tureen with a good-sized piece of butter and plenty of
pepper and salt.

And here let it be once more well understood that
pepper and salt are indispensable in the cooking of
vegetables, and that salt should always be placed in
the water before the vegetables are thrown in.

At a recent dinner given by a well-known epicure
a Lettuce green soup of most appetising colour was
placed before the guests. It was excellent and, in-
voluntarily, many glanced at the menu to see the name
of this aromatic puree. The words Potage Francesco,
did not elucidate the mystery, but the host to satisfy

MAKING OF SOUPS 315

the general curiosity gave the key to the problem. It
was nothing but a puree of new Potatoes, cooked in
the ordinary way, i.e., peeled Potatoes boiled in salt
water, mashed and reduced to a puree with the water
in which they had been boiled ; a bunch of water-cress
finely chopped, a piece of butter, the yolks of three
eggs, and a cupful of double cream, peppered and
salted, of course. It was a great success and can be
recommended as a novelty. Let it be remembered,
however, that the water-cress must on no account be
allowed to boil. It should be added at the last moment
with the eggs, butter and cream.

Creme-de-Choufleurs is the French name for a soup
made of Cauliflowers. A large head of the vegetable
is cut at the base of every flower, and, with two or
three Potatoes is boiled in salted water. When the
Cauliflower is cooked remove a few of the flowers and
put them in the tureen. Reduce the remainder to a
puree, adding the water in which the vegetables have
boiled, and a teaspoonful of semolina or tapioca for each
person. In ten minutes, when the tapioca is done,
pour the soup over the heads of flower in the tureen
and add a lump of butter. This soup, which makes
a kind of cream, deserves to become popular in Eng-
lish homes.

Although every vegetable can be made into a soup
with the addition of Carrots, Turnips, Leeks, Onions
and a Cabbage to flavour the broth, it is impossible to
enumerate all the French vegetable soups. It will be
easily understood that all these ingredients help to

316 FRENCH COOKERY OF VEGETABLES

flavour a puree of Peas, White Beans, Lentils, Celery,
etc. Among the peasantry, where soup is the staple
food, a piece of bacon or a sausage is cooked in the water
with the vegetables and served afterwards as a meat
course ; half the quantity of vegetables as a puree,
the remainder left whole and placed around the bacon
or sausage.

THE POTATO.

Having disposed of the vegetable in its uses for
soup we will now deal with it in its more important
form, and start with the Potato, on which, from a
culinary point of view, volumes could be written.

There are said to be five hundred different ways
of preparing this tuber, which in England is known only
as boiled, steamed or mashed. Fried should also be
added to the list — in the opinion of the uninitiated in
the mysteries of good cooking — but the sodden or
burnt specimens supplied by the average English cook
are not worthy of the qualification. Yet nothing is
simpler than to fry Potatoes. Let us then proceed to
explain this matter of frying which seems as little
understood as the making of an omelette. To com-
mence operations take a frying pan and place it on the
stove to warm. In a second or two drop in the lard
or dripping that is to become the liquid that will
change the raw material into the fried or souffle article.
This fat must boil before it is of any use, and in
order to ascertain if the requisite degree of heat is
reached it is only necessary to watch for the liquid to

THE POTATO 317

smoke. In the meantime peel and wash the Potatoes,
cut them in slices upon a cloth and dry them ; if the
fat is sufficiently heated throw them into it and fry a
light brown. When they are well coloured remove
them from the pan with a skimmer into a strainer,
shake them well in order that all the fat drains through
the holes ; sprinkle with salt and toss them so that those
underneath receive as much salting as the upper layer,
and serve in a hot entree dish. The essential points
to ensure success in the frying of Potatoes are : boiling
fat and a quick fire.

To souffle Potatoes, or cause each slice to swell to
the size of an egg. The operation is equally simple.
The raw material must be cut lengthways and must fry
on a moderately quick fire until nearly cooked. The
Potatoes must be removed before they begin to colour,
strained and allowed to cool until they are almost cold,
then thrown again into boiling fat and turned about
with the skimmer, when each slice will swell if too
many are not fried at the same time. Salt in the same
way as the ordinary fried Potatoes, and as each small
quantity is ready, place in the oven to keep hot. It is
always advisable to souffle Potatoes for a small number
of persons. They are generally served with a steak,
around the meat, or in a separate dish when the steak
is not plainly grilled.

Potatoes sautees is another form of preparing them
to be served with roasted or grilled meats. It is
impossible to anglicise the word saute e. Boil the
Potatoes in their skins, then peel them and cut into

3i 8 FRENCH COOKERY OF VEGETABLES

slices. For this purpose a small Potato is better than
a large one. Place a good-sized piece of butter into
a frying pan and when hot pour in the sliced Potatoes,
turn them on both sides and add a little chopped parsley
and salt.

Potatoes Duchesse. Mash about a dozen potatoes
that have been cooked in the oven ; add butter, four
eggs and salt ; with a spoon take a portion of this puree,
make into balls, then flatten them to the size of a small
biscuit ; and fry them in hot butter until they are a
golden brown on both sides. If there is any difficulty
in making them keep their shape before putting them
in the frying pan they can be sprinkled with flour.

Potatoes a la sauce blanche. Boil the Potatoes in
their skins ; peel them as quickly as possible, so that
they retain their heat ; cut them in slices ; place them
in a dish, and cover them with a white sauce, made with
flour, butter, boiled milk, salt and pepper. (Although
the description of sauces does not form part of this
notice, it may be interesting to know that this sauce,
called bechamel^ although well known in England, is
not properly prepared if the flour does not boil for ten
minutes when the milk is added to it.)

In the country in France, during the shooting sea-
son, Potatoes au vin is a favourite dish with sportsmen.
A large piece of butter is put into a saucepan, then a
tablespoonful of flour, salt, pepper and some chopped
onions or chives. This mixture is well stirred together
and placed on the fire with a tumbler full of white
wine and a cup of cream. When it boils, slices of

THE POTATO 319

Potatoes — that have been cooked and peeled in the
same manner as in the preceding recipe — are added to
the sauce, and the dish is ready for table.

These Potato dishes made with a sauce, it is almost
needless to say, are never served with meat, and con-
stitute a course by themselves for family dinners,
suppers or luncheons.

Whereas the Potatoes au vin, just described, are
seen at gentlemen's tables, the Potatoes au lard occupy
a less exalted position, and are patronised by cyclists
and tourists of all descriptions when they find themselves
at a country inn not prepared for visitors from town. It
is a substantial dish that is worth knowing. A piece
of bacon is cut into small squares and fried ; when
sufficiently cooked a teaspoonful of flour is added and
turned in the pan until it is quite brown ; then follow
pepper, parsley, thyme, and a laurel leaf ; a little stock
or water ; and boil for five minutes. Then put in the
Potatoes raw, that have of course been peeled and
washed, whole if they are new, otherwise cut into halves
or quarters — according to the size. When the Potatoes
are cooked the fat is skimmed off, and the dish can be
served.

Potatoes an fromage. This is a very simple but
excellent recipe. About a dozen Potatoes are boiled
in their skins, peeled and passed through a colander.
A layer of this puree is placed at the bottom of a
round deep dish, covered with grated Gruyere cheese,
salt and some little pieces of butter. This operation
is repeated with successive layers of Potatoes, cheese

320 FRENCH COOKERY OF VEGETABLES

and butter, until the dish is full — the surface to be
covered with some grated Parmesan mixed with the
Gruyere. The dish is then put into the oven for
about a quarter of an hour until the contents are of a
golden brown colour.

Reluctantly we now leave the Potatoes, about which
so much still might be said, and come to the green
vegetables.

As has already been stated, when vegetables are
served with the meat there is but one way of prepar-
ing them. Be they Peas, Beans, Cauliflower, Cabbage,
Artichokes (fonds\ they are first boiled, then taken
out of the water, strained, and put into the saucepan
and sauced with butter, pepper and salt. Always re-
member that the butter must first be quite hot, which
is indicated by the fact that it leaves off " singing".
The following recipes will, therefore, solely deal with
vegetables served as a course, as is customary in
France.

SPINACH

Is very much neglected or little understood in
England. In France it is excellently prepared. After
the leaves are washed and all the hard stems removed,
they are thrown into a saucepan full of boiling salted
water. When cooked they are pressed in the strainer
to free them from water, placed on a board, and
chopped fine ; then put into a saucepan with a good-
sized piece of butter, allowed to boil in this butter for
a quarter of an hour on a slow fire, with the addition

FRENCH BEANS 321

of a little salt, a pinch of flour and a small quantity
of milk or cream. They then simmer for another
quarter of an hour and are served with little squares of
fried bread. Instead of milk or cream, some people
moisten the Spinach with good stock or strong gravy.

FRENCH BEANS

Must be chosen very young, small and tender,
before the seed has formed. If they are too long
they are cut, but this is rarely necessary if they are
young. They must be washed, of course, but they
are never sliced into small pieces as is the custom in
England, where Scarlet Runners are so frequently con-
sumed in the place of the real French Bean. The
secret of preserving their bright green colour is
to throw them into boiling water with a handful of
salt at the same moment. When cooked they are
taken out of the water and strained in a colander.
In another saucepan heat a piece of butter with a pinch
of flour, salt, a glass of milk, or some of the water in
which the Beans have been boiled ; add the Beans and
serve with two yolks of eggs, beaten with a little
chopped parsley and chives, added to the sauce.

Another way of preparing French Beans after they
have been boiled, is to place them in a saucepan with
a little butter, salt and pepper, and to pour over them
half a cup of cream at the moment of serving.

French beans a la maitre-d' hotel are boiled in the
preceding manner, and when nearly done are put

21

322 FRENCH COOKERY OF VEGETABLES

into another saucepan with butter and chopped parsley,
salt and pepper, and a teaspoonful of vinegar.

CAULIFLOWERS

In France are neither served nor cooked whole,
which has the advantage of allowing them to be well
washed. The Cauliflower is cut at all the branches
and the hard skin peeled off each stem, thrown into
boiling water, which has been well salted, and when
cooked taken out and strained, in order to give them
the appearance of the whole vegetable ; each flower is
placed head downwards in a pudding basin, turned out
upon a dish, and then covered with a good white
sauce. The hard stalks of this vegetable are never
served at table.

Another way. After the Cauliflower has been
turned out upon the dish and has the exact shape of
the vegetable in its entirety, it is mashed with a
tomato sauce.

Cauliflower au gratln is boiled, as already indi-
cated, placed in a dish that can stand the oven, and
covered with bread crumbs, grated Gruyere, and small
pieces of butter. When well browned it is ready for
serving.

There is nothing very remarkable to tell about

CARROTS OR TURNIPS.

These vegetables are rarely served by themselves but
are indispensable in the making of stews and soups,

ASPARAGUS 323

and for flavouring purposes. In the French national
dish bceufa -la-mode Carrots play an all-important part.
They are cut into slices after having been scraped, and
are thrown into the saucepan wherein the piece of beef
is simmering with onions. Sufficient water to cover
them is added with a tablespoonful of brown sugar, salt
and plenty of pepper. In fact neither Carrots nor
Turnips are ever prepared without the addition of a
little sugar. For garnishing cut in the shape of pears
and cook in boiling water for about ten minutes. Then
butter the bottom of a flat saucepan, put in the Turnips
or Carrots, sprinkle with white powdered sugar and
moisten with a little stock ; butter also a round of
white paper, the size of the saucepan, and cover the
vegetables with it, the butter downwards, of course.
Put the saucepan in a quick oven at first, and then open
the oven door to finish cooking slowly. They can be
served by themselves and are much appreciated by
some people and should be dressed in a pyramid. In
the country Carrots and Turnips, like nearly all the
green vegetables, are often sauteed with butter and a
bowl full of cream added the moment before serving
and while the vegetables are still on the fire ; but in
towns cream is less often used for the common vege-
tables, as it is more costly than the vegetable itself.

ASPARAGUS

Is boiled in France in exactly the same manner as
in England, always with the addition of salt in the

324 FRENCH COOKERY OF VEGETABLES

water, but it is never covered with a sauce. The
stalks are placed upon a table-napkin upon the dish,
the stalks all one way, and sometimes the dish is
garnished with hard eggs. The sauce is served separ-
ately and made either of melted butter, or with oil,
vinegar, pepper and salt. A favourite sauce is simply
a conjunction of butter and cream, ingenious and
delicious. A good-sized piece of butter is melted
in a small saucepan with a pinch of flour and the
cream, according to the quantity required to fill the
" boat," whipped into it when it is taken off the fire.
Asparagus points make an excellent dressing for a
chicken or cutlet entree^ and are almost as often
bought tinned as fresh, especially as they are covered
with a white sauce made by saute eing in butter and
adding a little cream.

PEAS.

Peas a la Fran$aise are placed in a saucepan with
a piece of butter the size of an egg, and worked with a
spoon. Add a lettuce and ten or twelve small onions,
stew for an hour with salt and pepper and a bouquet
of parsley, that is to be removed when the Peas are
cooked. As the quantity of liquid diminishes pour
in a little hot water.

Peas are also served cooked in butter with the
addition of a little sugar and cream, with water added,
if necessary, so as to keep them from burning.

In this list niany vegetables have been omitted

SALADS 325

because they are not easily obtained in England, such
as Aubergines, Endive (called Chicory in England),
Salsify, etc., but it is perhaps advisable to mention

GLOBE ARTICHOKES.

These are washed and placed in a large saucepan
of boiling water with a handful of salt, the water,
however, must not fully cover them. They require
boiling for about an hour, and when a leaf can be
pul.ed out easily they are done. When taken out of
the water they are left to drain with the points down-
wards, and are generally eaten with a sauce made of
oil and vinegar, pepper and salt.

And now a word about

SALADS.

In England all vegetables called salads are eaten
raw. In France Lettuces and Chicory are as often
served hot, prepared like Spinach, or made into a
regular salad with oil and vinegar. But the most
important of all salads are those prepared with the
common vegetables, either as a Macedoine (i.e., a
mixture of Peas, Beans, Flageolets, Potatoes and
Carrots) or by themselves. Thus Potatoes and Beans
of every description make excellent salads, boiled
and allowed to cool, and then dressed with oil and
vinegar, pepper and salt. French Beans as a salad
are often dressed with cream instead of oil. In the
same way a mixed vegetable salad is often considered

326 FRENCH COOKERY OF VEGETABLES

more delicate if the oil is omitted, and cream used in
its place. The French recipe for mixing is one part
vinegar to two parts oil, and if the vinegar is very
strong even a smaller quantity is required.

The great mistake made by many English cooks
is to cut a Lettuce into too small pieces. In France
a leaf is divided into three or at most four parts,
washed, and then well drained in a wire basket, and
only dressed at the moment of serving. Cooked
vegetables, on the other hand, should be dressed some
time in advance to allow the vinegar to penetrate.

A good Potato salad is made with a mayonnaise
and a sprinkling of capers, but care should be taken
to boil the Potatoes in their skins and only peel them
afterwards, so that the flavour is not lost in the
water.

A fancy salad, once the rage in Paris, was invented
by Dumas fils and is described in his famous comedy
" Francillon," produced at the Comedie-Fran^aise,
and wherein truffles play an important part. But
beyond being rather costly it was not interesting.
Fancy salads have always been a favourite dish
with the French, and besides the mayonnaise of
vegetables, called Salade Russe, a popular salad is La
Malgache. This deserves a minute description, as if
once known in England it will be surely as popular
on one side of the Channel as on the other. Boil four
or five Kidney Potatoes in their skins, peel them and
cut them in slices, not too thick, and put them in a
salad bowl. Boil also a large Celery root after having

SALADS 327

peeled it. Let it cool and cut it up in slices about
the same size as the Potato. Add to these two white
vegetables a Beetroot, also cut in slices, pour over
them all a good mayonnaise sauce and mix well to-
gether until the salad becomes a pretty pink colour.
This can be prepared some time in advance and never
fails to prove a success.

Tomato salad is made by selecting the fruit while
it is firm. Each Tomato is wiped with a cloth, not
mashed, cut into thick pieces, not into slices, and mixed
with oil, vinegar, salt, pepper and chopped onions.

It will be seen by these few explanations that
the French cooking of vegetables is an art, but one
easily acquired by the most inexperienced of English
cooks. All that is wanted is a little care and the ob-
servance of the golden rules : to add salt to the water
when boiling vegetables ; to strain them well and turn
them in butter ; to add cream whenever it can be
obtained ; never to throw away the water in which
Asparagus, Cauliflower or White Beans have been
cooked, as this water makes excellent soup with rice or
tapioca added, and an egg and butter beaten together
in the soup tureen to give it the requisite consistency ;
never to serve a Cauliflower — or any other vegetable
—with a white sauce if the flower has not boiled for
at least ten minutes ; and never to use inferior butter
in the cooking of vegetables, as in the quality of this
ingredient lies the difFerence between mediocrity and
excellence.

F. K.

SEED SOWING.

What to Sow.

Time of
Sowing.

Varieties to Sow.

Season when
ready.

Asparagus.

April, May.

Connover's Colossal

April to

Giant Argenteuil.

July.

Artichoke,

March.

Green or Purple

June to

Globe.

Globe.

October.

Bean, Dwarf

April.

Plentiful, Ne Plus

June to

(not forced).

Ultra.

August.

June.

Canadian Wonder,

July to

and others.

September.

Bean, Broad.

February.

Early Longpod.

June.

March.

Green Longpod.

July.

April.

Monarch and Wind-

August.

sor.

May.

Windsor, Green.

August.

November.

Early Longpod.

June.

Bean, Runner

May or

Scarlet Emperor, Best

July.

June.

of All, Hackwood Suc-

cess.

Broccoli.

March.

Autumn Protecting.

October.

April.

Michaelmas White.

November.

May.

Christmas White.

December.

April.

Leamington.

Spring.

May.

Late Queen and

Spring.

Model.

Brussels

March.

Cambridge Cham-

October to

Sprouts.

pion, Dwarf Gem, Hoi-

March.

born Exhibition.

Beet.

April, May.

Crimson Ball, Globe.

July.

»

Cheltenham Green Top.

Winter.

Borecole.

April.

Green Curled,

Autumn.

Scotch.

May.

Arctic, and others.

Winter.

328

SEED SOWING

329

What to Sow.

Time of
Sowing.

Varieties to Sow.

Season
when ready.

Cabbage.

February.

Favourite, Little

Summer.

Queen.

May.

Winningstadt.

Winter.

June.

Coleworts', Rosette

Winter.

and Green.

July.

Ellam's Dwarf, Early

April to

April.

June.

Carrot.

March.

Early Nantes, Early

June.

Gem.

April.

Model, Early Short

July.

Horn.

May.

Main Crop Varieties.

Winter.

Cardoon.

April and

Large Spanish, Early

June to

May.

Tours.

October.

Cauliflower.

March or

Snowball, Early Forc-

May.

earlier.

ing.

»

First Crop, Wal-

June.

cheren.

April and

Early Giant

August to

May.

October.

March.

Autumn Giant and

Autumn.

Mammoth.

Chicory.

April.

Witloof.

Winter.

Celery.

February.

Aldenham Pink Per-

September.

fection, White Gem.

March.

Solid White.

October.

»

Major ClaVke's Red.

December.

»

Standard Bearer.

Late

Winter.

Cucumber.

January to

(Frame and indoor

December.

varieties.)

Endive.

June.

Early Green, Curled.

September.

July.

Batavian Varieties.

Winter.

Leeks.

March.

Lyon, Musselburgh

Winter.

and Holborn Model.

Lettuce.

February.

Golden Queen,

May and

Hicks' Hardy.

June.

33°

SEED SOWING

What to Sow.

Time of
Sowing.

Varieties to Sow.

Season
when ready.

Lettuce.

Monthly.

All Year Round, and

Summer

others.

and

Autumn.

August to

Hammersmith, and

Spring.

September.

Brown Cos.

Onion.

February to

Main Crop Varieties.

Autumn

March.

and Winter.

August.

Autumn Varieties.

Spring and

Summer.

Parsley.

March to

Garnishing Varieties.

All year.

August.

Rhubarb.

April.

Victoria and Hawkes'

Spring.

Champagne.

j>

Sutton's Early.

Winter.

Parsnips.

March.

Student.

Winter.

April.

Tender and True.

Spring.

Radish.

February.

White and Red Forc-

April.

ing.

March.

Early Frame.

May.

April.

Long White and

June.

Scarlet.

August.

French Breakfast.

September.

September.

China Varieties.

Winter.

Salsify.

April.

Mammoth.

Winter.

Scorzonera.

May.

Russian.

Winter.

Peas.

February.

Chelsea Gem, Green

May.

Gem.

March.

Daisy, Gradus.

June.

April.

Duke of Albany,

July.

Quite Content.

May.

The Gladstone.

August.

June.

Autocrat, Masterpiece,

September.

Peerless Marrowfat.

July.

Michaelmas.

October.

Latest of All.

November.

Savoy

March.

Green Curled, Early

Autumn.

Cabbage.

Ulm.

SEED SOWING

What to Sow.

Time of
Sowing.

Varieties to Sow.

Season
when ready.

Savoy

April.

Perfection.

Winter.

Cabbage.

May.

Sugarloaf.

Winter.

May.

Drumhead.

Late

Winter.

Seakalc.

April.

Lily White, Purple.

Winter to

Spring.

Spinach.

February.

Carter's Early.

May.

March.

Long Standing.

June.

April, June.

Victoria Round.

Summer.

May.

New Zealand.

Autumn.

August.

Long Standing.

Winter.

Tomatoes.

January.

Sunrise.

June.

Perfection.

July.

March.

Duke of York.

Autumn.

May.

Polegate.

Autumn.

July.

Winter Beauty.

Winter.

Turnips.

March.

Early Forcing, White

May.

Gem.

»

Early Milan, Snow-

June.

ball.

April.

Snowball.

July.

White Model.

August.

May to

Red Globe, Veitch's

Autumn.

July.

Jersey Lily.

August.

Golden Ball.

Winter.

September.

Chirk Castle.

Spring.

Vegetable

March.

Perfection.

Summer.

Marrow.

April, May.

Pen-y-Byd, Custard.

Autumn.

Herbs.

Spring.

In Variety. Autumn.

Potatoes. ! February.

S'.harpe's Victor, May and

Ninety-fold, Ringleader. June.

March.

Ashleaf Varieties. June.

April.

Sir John Llewelyn. Juty'

»?

Windsor Castle.

August.

»

Supreme.

September.

»

Epicure.

October.

»

Snowball, Factor.

November.

»

Goldfinder, Monarch,

December

Syon House Prolific,

to June.

Triumph, Up-to-Date.

PLANTERS' TABLES.

So many things raised from seed need transplanting,
such as the small tender roots or forced material, that
a time table for planting may be helpful to young
gardeners. Other vegetables are propagated by divi-
sion, and then planted out.

What to Plant.

Date.

Varieties.

Season.

Asparagus

April to

Giant French,

March to

(seedlings).

May.

Giant Battersea,

June.

Argenteuil, Con-

nover's Colossal.

Artichoke, Globe

March to

Purple Globe,

May to

(division of roots).

April.

Green Globe, Large j October.

Green.

Artichoke,

December

Jerusalem, Chin-

October to

Jerusalem.

to March.

ese, (Stachys tuberi- May.

fera).

Beans (transplant).

March.

Early Longpod,

June.

Early Green.

Beans, Broad

>>

Dwarf Mazagan.

•>•>

(sown under glass

in January).

Beans, Dwarf.

April.

Plentiful, Ne

it

Plus Ultra.

Beans, French

»

Earliest of All,

»

(sown in March

Sutton's Forcing.

under glass).

Bean, Runner

May.

Scarlet Emperor,

July.

(sown in April).

Hackwood Success,

Best of All.

332

PLANTERS' TABLES

333

What to Plant.

Date.

Varieties.

Season.

Broccoli

April to

Autumn Protecting,

October.

(early kinds).

May.

Autumn Protecting.

Superb Early White.

November.

PI

Early Cape, Wal-

December.

cheren.

Broccoli

»

Christmas White.

December.

(znd early).

»

Snow's Winter

> j

White.

n

Veitch's Main

January.

Crop.

»

Penzance.

February.

Broccoli

May and

Vanguard, Eclipse.

March.

(main crop).

June.

White and Purple

,,

Sprouts.

M

Bouquet, Satis-

April.

faction.

»

Champion (Car-

May.

ter's).

Broccoli

June.

Model, Late Queen.

May.

(late).

ii

June Monarch.

June.

Brussels Sprouts.

May to

Cambridge Cham-

October to

July.

pion, Dwarf Gem.

December.

> J

Holborn Exhi-

> »

bition.

> J

Matchless, Nor-

January to

thaw's Prize.

April.

Beet (sown

May.

Sutton's Globe,

June.

under glass).

Crimson Ball.

Borecole or Kale.

jy

Dwarf, Curled.

November.

June.

Reed's Hearting.

December.

>7

Arctic, Curled.

March.

»

Cottager's and As-

April.

paragus.

Cabbage.

September

E Ham's Early

March.

to October.

Dwarf.

November.

Early April.

April.

»>

Matchless.

May to

July.

334

PLANTERS7 TABLES

What to Plant.

Date.

Varieties.

Season.

Cabbage.

May.

Sutton's Maincrop,

August.

?>

Favourite, Gem.

September.

Coleworts.

June.

Hardy Green,

Winter.

Rosette.

Winter Cabbage.

tt

St. John's Day, Win-

December

ningstadt, Christ-

to March.

mas Drumhead.

Cardoon

May.

Spanish, Large

October to

(sown in April).

Solid, Tours.

March.

Cauliflower.

March.

Snowball, Early

May.

Forcing.

»

First Crop, Early

June.

London.

June to

Pearl, Early

July.

Giant, Autumn

August.

Giant.

October.

Early London,

September.

Walcheren.

?»

Early Dwarf

May to

Erfurt.

June.

Celery.

May to

Early Rose,

October.

July.

White Gem, Solid

White, Aldenham

Pink.

»

Major Clarke's

December

Standard Bearer.

to April.

Cucumbers.

January.

Every Day, Model.

March.

March.

Telegraph, Match-

June. j

less.

July.

Ideal.

August.

September.

Peerless, Delicacy,

Winter.

Telegraph.

Endive.

June to

Green Curled,

September

August. \ Batavian.

to March.

Lettuce.

February.

Hammersmith,

April.

Hicks' Hardy Cos.

April.

Golden Queen.

May.

Lettuce.

May to

In Variety.

June to

September.

December.

PLANTERS1 TABLES

335

What to Plant.

Date.

Varieties.

Season.

Rhubarb

March.

Victoria, Hawke's

April to

(seedlings).

Champion.

June.

M

In Variety.

> »

Leeks.

May.

Holborn Model,

Winter.

The Lyon, Mussel-

burgh.

Onion (sown

March and

In Variety.

August,

under glass).

April.

September.

Onion, Autumn.

February.

In Variety.

June.

Peas (sown

March.

Green Gem, May

May.

under glass).

Queen.

Chelsea Gem.

»>

Gradus, Daisy,

June.

Early Morn, Quite i

Content.

Savoy.

May to

Early Ulm, Green October.

July.

Curled.

»

Sugarloaf, Per- December.

fection.

»

Drumhead. j February.

Seakale.

March.

Purple.

November

to May.

April.

Lily White, Bed-

dord's Improved.

n

Tomatoes (raised

May to

In Variety.

July to

under glass).

June.

October.

Vegetable Mar-

May.

Perfection, Prince

June.

rows (raised

Albert.

under glass).

June.

Pen-y-Byd, Cus-

July to

tard.

October.

Potatoes.

February.

Ringleader,

May.

Ninety fold.

March.

Ashleaf Varieties.

June.

April.

Windsor Castle,

July to

Supreme, Satis-

October.

faction.

5>

Epicure.

December.

»

Schoolmaster,

February.

Snowball.

» >

Goldfinder,

March to

Factor, Up-to- Date.

June.

»

Syon House and

M

late varieties.

CHAPTER X.

GATHERING, STORING AND PACKING OF
VEGETABLES.

IT is of great importance to gather, store and pack
vegetables so that when they reach their destination
they are fresh and wholesome. Many vegetables are
left too long upon the ground before they are used.
Some may ask how can large supplies be prevented
from turning in at one time thus creating a glut and
in the end causing the crop to be left longer than is
advisable. This has been explained in the cultural
notes. The best remedy is doubtless to sow more
frequently and in smaller quantities and to avoid
having so much material ready at one time. Vege-
tables cannot be too fresh, and private growers have
a great advantage over those who have to purchase
their supplies.

With regard to storing vegetables it frequently
happens that certain sorts must be stored to prevent
injury by frost or to check gross growth. For in-
stance, the Cauliflower or Broccoli, lifted with roots
intact, may be kept good for weeks in a cool place,
whereas in the open it may get overgrown or injured
by severe weather.

336

ASPARAGUS 337

ASPARAGUS.

This is placed first because it is one of the most
important of vegetables. Asparagus must be large,
of a good length and the points close and not too
open, that is, the growths must not be too much de-
veloped. With regard to blanching the stalks, there
is a great diversity of opinion. Many prefer the
green or exposed portion, others the blanched, but
generally the upper part is of better quality when of
green colouring through exposure. On the Continent,
mostly in France, a great trade is done in this vege-
table, and the remark is sometimes made that the very
fine growths sent to this country are quite distinct
from those produced in England, but this is not the
case. There is no doubt whatever that culture has
much to do with quality both as to size and flavour.
Many pay great attention to the formation of the beds
but not sufficient to after attention. Others fail to
feed, and frequently the plants are grown much too
close together.

Large growers often make only two sizes, but we
would advise three as it will be found when grown for
sale that there will be a demand for the best Aspara-
gus. The medium-sized can be used at home with
the large but in no case is it well to mix small and
large together as when cooked the small is spoilt and
the large insufficiently boiled. The small shoots are
termed the " sprue," and this is useful for soups, but

there is often too much sprue where poor culture is

22

338 GATHERING, STORING AND PACKING

given and this makes the plant far less profitable.
Bunching depends upon the season. Asparagus forced
very early is often put up into bundles of twenty-five,
whilst later on fifty and one hundred are the usual
quantities. When large quantities are grown for sale
the shoots are washed if needed and neatly tied. Some
place the bundles in water but if left any time the tops
soon double over. The best plan is to lay them thinly
in cool sheds and lightly damp over, then cover to
exclude the light. A very large Asparagus grower
adopts the following plan. The beds are gone over
daily and the growths put into three sizes, placed in
layers on the floor and packed three times a week.
Over each lot is placed damp moss covering them over
so that the growths are quite dark and they do not
get much air. Stored in this way they keep quite
fresh and do not lose flavour. In private gardens
small quantities of Asparagus are sometimes cut and
placed under say one foot of soil. This answers well
if there are insufficient shoots at one cutting, and is
preferable to placing in water in shallow pans. When
forced Asparagus is packed it is well to wrap each
bundle round with soft paper, and if sent any distance
the bundles must be made firm so that they do not
move. It is well to place the heads in the centre.
For forced Asparagus fresh moss quite free from soil
or grit is a good packing material. When this is
used the shoots keep good for several days if placed
in shallow flats and ample space is given for the lids.
Large quantities if placed close together travel well in

ARTICHOKES

339

shallow baskets or flats with a little soft packing under
the bottom layer and the upper portion papered over.
Of course in packing vegetables of any kind the sender
is obliged to study weight. Any unnecessary addition
adds to cost. On the Continent very light baskets are
used to great advantage.

It is often asked at the time of cutting whether the
beds should be cut over entirely without leaving any
small growths or spray. This practice is advisable
except in the case of beds grown specially for a late
supply but even then there must be hard cutting.

ARTICHOKES.

There are three kinds : the summer and winter
kinds (the Globe section) are in season from June
to October and the tuberous-rooted varieties from
October to May. The Globe Artichoke is a greater
favourite on the Continent than in this country. The
heads are at their best when full grown, that is just
before the centres begin to open out ; when cut in a
smaller state they lack substance and are drier. The
heads will be full and fleshy at the base when fit for
use ; they keep for some time when the stalk ends are
put into water in a cool dark place. The heads at
cutting should have about three inches of stalk at-
tached, but this of course is removed just before
cooking. The heads are very tender when full grown,
so that in the early autumn months it is well to cut
them as soon as matured and keep as advised. The

340 GATHERING, STORING AND PACKING

Jerusalem is different in every way, the growth being
much like that of a sunflower, and the edible portion
is the root. This vegetable is best left in the soil
and lifted as required for use, but in some seasons this
is not practicable as if the season is severe lifting is
stopped. To get over this difficulty lift and clamp
like Potatoes, sorting out the seed and covering over
with dry litter. To keep the tubers from sprouting
place the clamp on a north border or under trees.
When stored in a warm shed the roots quickly grow
out and become black and flavourless inside when
cooked. The Chinese Artichoke or Stachys tuberi-
fera is a small spiral-shaped tuber in season during
autumn and winter. These are best lifted from their
growing quarters as required for use. To preserve
them from frost cover the soil over with litter.
These being small are best packed in small boxes or
bags. If stored choose a place just frost-proof and
use plenty of soil or sand between the roots.

BEANS

Are of three kinds ; the Dwarf or French Bean
is in season all the year if forced, but it gives a
poor return in mid-winter. If grown in strong heat
the pod soon gets old and tough. It is therefore
desirable to gather daily as the pods keep well if tied so
that the stalk ends are level and then placed in shallow
pans in a cool place, twenty-five to fifty pods in a bundle
being a good quantity according to the size of the pods

BEANS 341

and the season. The bean hardens if placed in water,
and to keep the water pure it is well to add a few
lumps of charcoal. Forced plants very early in the
season produce a large number of small pods. These
are unsaleable. It is well therefore to sort them and
not grow the plants too thickly so that the pods
can properly develop. In packing use some soft
material on the top of the basket as the pods bruise
quickly if not protected. The open ground supply is
from June to October, but the crop must be gathered
regularly otherwise the pods fail to set. The pods
from the open are usually gathered into cross-handled
baskets and sold by the pound when sent to market.
The Runner Bean needs much the same treatment as
regards gathering, as if the pods form seed they are
of little value as a vegetable. For market large
quantities are grown, but of late years the Climbing
Runner or French Bean has become a great favourite.
Though the pods of this variety age more quickly the
plants crop freely and the pods being more shapely
are much liked. This section is usually packed in half
sieves or bushels for market, the tops being covered
over with long grass and protected by willows. The
earlier the plants can be got to produce the more
valuable the supply ; indeed, it often happens that the
earliest pods sent to market in pounds in small flats
give a much better return than bushels later on. In
the private garden the same results should be en-
couraged, as the earlier the produce the more it is
valued.

342 GATHERING, STORING AND PACKING

BROAD BEANS

Are in season from June until August or later, but
in gardens the earlier supply is most relished, as this
Bean in hot weather soon hardens and has a rough
taste. It will be found advisable to gather the pods
when they are only small, say a little more than half
grown. Cooked at this stage they are wholesome
and delicious. Another way to make the larger Bean
more palatable and remove the rough taste so much
disliked is to skin the Beans. By removing the outer
skin the Bean is sweeter and more tender. Of course
for market it would not be profitable to gather the
pods in the small state advised and they would also
suffer if placed in bulk in a tender state. This shows
the advantage of home-grown supplies. If quantities of
green vegetables are placed in bulk they heat and are
not good for food. To keep the pods after gathering
place them in a dark cool shed on the floor thinly
and lightly damp the pods over daily. Treated thus
they will keep a week without loss of flavour. Broad
Beans may be had earlier by forcing, and grown thus
they are well worth the labour and cost entailed.

BEETROOT.

The Globe-shaped Beetroot being of more rapid
growth does not keep so long as the others, but the roots
may be had good during summer. It is not advisable to
grow them for winter supplies as they should not be

BORECOLE OR KALES 343

allowed to get coarse for they soon lack colour. They
are at their best when used as large as a cricket ball.
The tap-rooted or long Beets will give a supply from
September to May when in a cool store just frost-
proof, but they need careful lifting as damage to the
roots results in bleeding and poor colour. They
are best lifted in early November and stored in
fine soil, sand or ashes, using plenty of these materials
between the roots to prevent shrivelling, as this
quickly affects the quality. The tops at lifting time
are twisted off, not cut with a knife, and large coarse
or divided roots should be put on one side as they
are not worth storage. Put them in an open shed
and use plenty of packing between. This is prefer-
able to a warm cellar as a little frost is far less
harmful than too much warmth. For market the
roots are often clamped and sent to market by the
tally or in bushel baskets.

BORECOLE OR KALES.

It is important to prevent the plants seeding in
spring, and to do this cut them over frequently after
cutting for the house begins. The best way is to use
the green varieties as soon as possible. Though they
keep some days in a cool place, when exposed too long
the flavour is impaired. They are easily packed to
send long distances and for market are placed in large
round baskets or crates. The smaller greens or later
cuttings do not find so ready a sale as the tops so

344 GATHERING, STORING AND PACKING

that it is well to grow both early, mid-season and late
varieties for these respective seasons.

BROCCOLI.

One of the most valuable of vegetables, as the
plants give a supply from October until June. The
autumn Broccoli follows the Cauliflower, the latter
being less hardy than the Broccoli. Much may be
done in winter to keep small heads of Broccoli after
their formation by lifting the plants and placing them
in a cool frame or shed, care being taken that the
roots and a portion of the soil are retained. Plants
lifted at the approach of frost and treated in the
way advised may be kept fresh for some time. When
they are only to be kept for a few days tie the leaves
over the heads and suspend the plants in a cool cellar.
The white curd of the flower soon blackens and is
destroyed by a little frost, hence the need for storage
to prolong the supply when frost approaches. To
keep the heads uninjured they also need shading from
the sun, though some varieties have leaves that fold
naturally. When the leaves are more open break the
upper ones over the heads. To retard plants in April
and May lift and place them in a shady quarter close
together, well covering the heads with the foliage.
When Broccoli are to go any distance leave a good
portion of the leaves as these protect the head. Large
quantities of Broccoli are sent from abroad to this
country in winter and they arrive in splendid condi-

BRUSSELS SPROUTS 345

tion, being packed in small cane baskets. Early in
the year large quantities are sent from Cornwall and
other parts of the south coasts mostly in baskets or
crates. They travel well as the leaves when cut
with the plants protect the heads. With regard to
the best time to cut the heads that depends upon the
variety. Some varieties are very large, but these are
by no means the best in flavour, a small or medium-
sized head being preferable. The heads should be
cooked as advised in a previous chapter.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS.

This vegetable remains fresh and wholesome long
after it is fully developed. The small or medium-
sized compact bullet-like Sprout is the most liked.
Some varieties produce very large Sprouts that soon
expand, but if a small Cabbage is needed they should
not be grown as Sprouts. These winter badly. In
gathering, the Sprouts should be broken off and the
top growth retained till the whole are gathered, as a
natural protection is thus provided. Given cool
storage the Sprouts retain their freshness for some
days, and before they are sent in for the table clear away
any useless leafage or yellow growth. Never pack
them in very large quantities as they then heat.
They are sent to market in half sieves and sieves or
bushels and are best when well graded, as very small
or open Sprouts should not be gathered. The same
remarks apply to this vegetable sent in hampers for

346 GATHERING, STORING AND PACKING

private use. It is much better to send well-sorted
and useable Sprouts than those having useless outer
leaves.

CABBAGES.

There is no gain in keeping Cabbage heads till
they are very hard, indeed for home supplies the
quickly grown tender and small heads are more
appreciated. Coleworts are the autumn varieties of
Cabbage and do not keep long ; they are in season from
October to Christmas. The produce is usually sold
in crates or by the tally of sixty, the very early spring
variety being sold in dozens.

CARDOONS.

These closely resemble in appearance a poor type
of Globe Artichoke ; they need to be taken up at the
approach of frost and stored in a cool place. Much
space is required to grow them, and careful cleaning is
necessary before cooking to remove soil or grit.

CAULIFLOWER

So much resembles the Broccoli that advice con-
cerning one may well apply to the other, but the former
is a summer and early autumn vegetable. Its season
is from May to October and later if the plants are
lifted and treated as advised for Broccoli. The heads
should be cut when small and not allowed to open, and
if possible protect them from the sun by the foliage.

CHICORY 347

CELERY AND CELERIAC.

It is not advisable to lift the plants too long before
they are used. Rough or outer leaves should be re-
moved and the heads tied in bundles, the roots being
trimmed and the top growths reduced so that when
sent to market after being washed they have a neat
and fresh look. With regard to quantities the bunches
contain from nine to twelve and they are often sent in
vans piled one upon the other. As they are tender
protection is needed in severe weather, and this may
be given by placing litter or dry bracken over them.
Many large growers at the approach of severe weather
lift considerable quantities with roots and soil attached
and place in deep drills or trenches close together and
cover over. In this way the plants can be examined
with little trouble. The bulbous-rooted Celeriac is
best lifted in November and stored like Beet. Failing
this it may be clamped or covered over with litter
in the growing quarters. This root is not largely
grown in this country but is a great favourite in France
and Germany and large quantities are imported to
England in winter.

CHICORY.

Like Celeriac this is a greater favourite on the
Continent than in this country. It is more often grown
here as a salad plant, and if the roots are placed in a
dark warm place they force readily but when used as a

348 GATHERING, STORING AND PACKING

vegetable the growths are cut when a few inches long,
and in this condition resemble Seakale. As the growths
are very tender care is necessary in packing them as
they must not be crushed. Chicory is in season from
November to April. When used as a salad the plant
is allowed to make a longer growth, but perfectly
blanched, and should be cut over every other day.

CUCUMBERS

Should be cut young before the seed is formed.
Handle the fruits as little as possible so that the
bloom is preserved. The fruits are best taken from
the plants daily, as by allowing too many to mature at
one time a check to growth results. There is no diffi-
culty in keeping the fruits a few days if they are placed
stalk end in water. When packed in small quantities
place each fruit in soft paper, but when in larger
quantities pack them in flats, long fresh grass being
used for packing. The Cucumber is in season all the
year but is always plentiful from March until October.
Fewer ridge varieties are grown now as the others
are produced in immense quantities by large growers.

LEEKS.

Of late years these have become more popular.
The best roots are those with a thick base and well
blanched. The plant is quite hardy and is best dug
up and used at once, though the roots if lifted, washed

MUSHROOMS

349

and tied in bundles for the market remain good for
days, but before they are used the outer skin should
be removed if at all shrivelled. To prevent the plants
showing their flower spikes in spring it is well to lift
with roots intact and place in deep drills in moist soil
on a north border. Previous to packing reduce a
portion of the top growth and wash and trim the roots.

MAIZE

Is not a popular British vegetable, but when used
green, that is when the cobs are fully grown but not
ripe or hardened in any way, it is delicious. The
cobs are in season from August to October and keep
some time at this season if gathered and stored in a
cool place ; they do well hung up until used.

MUSHROOMS.

The Mushroom is in season all the year but the
best returns are obtained from beds made in early
autumn and kept going well into the spring. To
ensure the best quality there must be daily gathering
and great care taken in sorting. There is a brisk
demand in the London season for what are termed
buttons, which are the small unfolded compact growths.
They are usually packed in one pound punnets. The
private grower prefers to gather Mushrooms in a more
developed state known as "cookers" or "broilers".
These have more flavour. In selecting the large

350 GATHERING, STORING AND PACKING

Mushrooms for sale care should be taken that the
growths are quite fresh and have a pretty pink colour.
Those inclined to turn black realise a poorer price.
Larger quantities are packed in punnets, small rounds
or sieves well papered round, the Mushrooms being
tightly packed with the smooth portion upwards.
A good portion of stem is cut with them. If sent
daily or three times a week there is no fear of stale
Mushrooms and in packing cover the baskets over
with paper and tie down. For private use, if sent any
distance large punnets are useful, as these can be nicely
packed in hampers and it is always well to be careful so
that breakages do not occur. Mushrooms are very
tender. Those who have caves or underground cellars
can furnish supplies all the year with little trouble,
and during the summer from June to October ridge-
shaped beds in the open, given a good top covering
with litter are reliable.

ONIONS.

Very large quantities of Onions are grown for
market and home supplies, and of late years more atten-
tion has been paid to large bulbs for cooking and exhi-
bition. The autumn sown of the Tripoli section are
the mildest in flavour, but they do not keep so long as
the spring sown, so that it is well to market the stock
as soon as full grown. They are sold in bags. For
private supplies large quantities of the green Onions
are not so much required, but in market gardens they
are grown for bunching when green in spring. These

PEAS 351

are autumn sown. For storing medium-sized Onions
are best, and they should be given as cool a store as
possible ; indeed, if not damp or in great bulk frost
does not injure them, but for home bunching or the
old-fashioned plan of" roping " choose the well-ripened
spring sown or keeping varieties and suspend them to
the roof of a shed. If the plants are well grown
and fed there will be few small bulbs ; the latter should
not be mixed with the larger but they are useful for
pickling and can be sold for this purpose. Large
quantities of Onions are imported in late summer and
greatly affect the sale of home-grown produce.

PEAS.

In no case should the pods become hard or seedy as
then the flavour is poor. Gather the pods daily say
from midsummer to September, and they keep a short
time if laid on a floor in a cool place and damped over.
Certain of the larger section, especially the light-green
pods, age more quickly than others. There is now a
regular trade in shelled peas early in the year, the pods
being imported and then shelled and sold in bags, but
this produce cannot compare with our own Marrow-
fat varieties freshly gathered. Peas sent to market are
usually in half sieves or bushels and early in the season
from the Continent small baskets, holding a few
pounds in each, are used. For home use if sent any
distance they are best placed thinly in a hamper near
the lid, as if in bulk any length of time they heat badly.

352 GATHERING, STORING AND PACKING

ROOTS.

Under this heading Carrots occupy a leading place
being always in season. In private gardens where the
land is suitable it is much better to have young Carrots
direct from the soil and to do this three or four sow-
ings are required. The roots are not so susceptible to
weather influences as many suppose, but there are other
difficulties. When left too long before lifting the
roots are attacked by grub in some soils and quickly
decay. It is therefore necessary to lift and store in
early autumn. Give them as cool a store as possible
and use plenty of soil, sand or fine ashes between
the roots. Large, coarse, split or grub-eaten roots
should not be stored. The tops should be cut within
two inches of the crown and no washing allowed till
taken from the store. They are sold in bags or by
weight but the best prices are obtained in spring from
roots that have wintered in their growing quarters.
These are lifted, washed with tops intact, and only
broken or yellow leaves removed, and tied in dozens or
less. These as regards quality are preferable to stored
roots. Early in the season young roots are bunched
and sold in the same way.

PARSNIPS

Are best when sent to table freshly lifted from the
soil. Of course this is not possible with market
supplies but here a middle course can be adopted. In

TURNIPS

353

October or November the roots can be lifted and
stored in clamps like Potatoes, but there must be
ample top covering to exclude air as parsnips shrivel
badly. There can be no question whatever that the
roots should be left as long as possible in the ground.
In gardens the surface soil of a portion of the crop can
be covered with litter to exclude frost and facilitate
lifting. These roots command a better sale in severe
winters than in others as they keep well, and to retard
growth in spring they are best lifted and placed in
trenches under a north wall. They are sold by weight
mostly and are in season from October to May when
given cool storage.

TURNIPS.

The best returns are obtained from early supplies
which are sent to market in bunches of a dozen and
later on are sold by weight in bags. It is advisable to
sow at least five times during the season for home
supplies, March for the early lot, August for the
winter roots to store and they may be treated as
advised for Beet, but avoid coarse roots which quickly
decay. A Turnip loses quality if large as it soon gets
soft. To get the best results it is well to sow the
summer crop in a cool quarter, the late one in an open
position, and to store in November. In packing, all
roots should be at the bottom of the basket. If they
are matured and sent with other vegetables for private
use or for sale they are sent in bags or sold by weight.

23

354 GATHERING, STORING AND PACKING

SALADS.

Under this heading Lettuces form the most im-
portant item and are profitable to the large grower if
early supplies are well grown. Immense quantities
are imported from France in the early year in small
cane baskets and are sold at a good profit. The small
Cabbage Lettuces come in more quickly than the Cos.
The former are usually packed flat, the heart upwards,
the Cos, home grown in the summer, being laid on one
side and sent in crates and baskets. To be of any value
the Lettuce must be grown quickly and not allowed to
remain about after it is cut. The Cos varieties are more
readily packed and less likely to get broken than the
Cabbage section. The plants can be kept a short time
after cutting if laid on a cool floor and damped over.
For home supplies they may be lifted in autumn and
given frame protection, they are sold by the tally in
summer and in smaller quantities early in the year.

Mustard and Cress finds a ready sale, especially in
spring and winter. It is in season all the year and is
sold in small punnets which are packed in boxes or
hampers. In cutting take care to keep the tops upright
and free from grit or soil. The best material is that
grown quickly ; it should be started in the dark and
cut when young.

RADISHES

Should be growing as early as possible in spring as
in hot weather they soon get tough. They suffer if

POTATOES 355

much exposed after being drawn, and they are usually
bunched, their tops shortened, washed and packed in
flats for market. There is not much demand for
autumn Radishes, but in private gardens they should
find favour as a salad.

Other salads comprise Water Cress, and Corn Salad,
and Endive ; the last mentioned much resembles Lettuce
but remains fit for use longer if grown for the autumn
supplies than Lettuce, thus being found most useful.
Endive is of little value if sown too early as it runs
badly. Even this is largely imported from abroad, the
finely curled variety being usually grown. Owing to
its tender nature in most parts of the country it is
necessary to lift and place in frames for a winter
supply.

POTATOES

Form such an important portion of our food
supply and are always in season that they should
receive special attention. The best results are ob-
tained by growing early, mid-season and late varieties.
The early Potatoes such as Ash Leaf, English Beauty,
and selections from the Ash Leaf and American Earlies
give the first crops, and these are best lifted as required,
though when sent to market in small baskets or half
bushels it is well to prevent the skins being broken as
they look more presentable when intact. Soft packing
will prevent this. Barrels are used for long distances
but the Potatoes are not so easily seen as in baskets
where more attention is paid to grading. The mid-

356 GATHERING, STORING AND PACKING

season varieties are important but are a distinct class.
They are sold in bags or by weight. More care is
necessary with the later crop as these have to give a
supply for six months. With regard to storage cool
barns, sheds or out-houses are most suitable, but large
growers have not sufficient space at command and are
obliged to clamp. When treated in this way give the
tubers a shaded position, as clamps exposed to full
sunshine result in sprouting in early spring. For such
purposes they are best kept in shallow trays or on shelves
but allow ample ventilation. The tubers then make
a short thick sprout. In no case should Potatoes be
unduly exposed after lifting as green colouring is in-
jurious. When they are merely for seed it is not neces-
sary that the tubers should be dry when stored provided
there are no decaying ones. When packing small quan-
tities of early tubers punnets are used, and bags for late
varieties, in quantities often by the hundredweight.

SALSIFY AND SCORZONERA.

These vegetables are in season from October until
April. It is advisable to leave the roots in their
growing quarters and lift as required for use, and to
prevent growth in early spring lift and treat as advised
for Leeks. There is only a limited sale for these roots
and they are best tied up in a dozen to a bundle, the
tops shortened and care taken in packing. They may
be wintered in heavy land in a store using plenty of
soil between the roots.

SPINACH 357

SEAKALE.

A very popular winter and spring vegetable and
finding a ready sale when well grown. Large growers
who make a speciality of this vegetable have different
methods from the private grower as the latter needs
smaller quantities. To get tender Seakale it must
be grown quickly in the dark, and use only strong
growths. It will be found that Seakale grown with
too much heat from hot-water pipes or fire heat is not
so rich in flavour as that from the open ground forced
with manures. The Kale should be compact and
neither too long nor show the flower stem in any way,
that is, the centres should not be fully expanded. It
is well to cut a small portion of the root with each
growth and tie in bundles of say half a dozen or more.
To keep the Kale fresh place it in shallow pans of
water in a quite cool and dark place. Exposure to light
or too much ventilation results in a soft growth. For
home supplies it is much better cut and used in a fresh
state. If packed soft paper should completely cover
the bundles. For sale the Kale is often placed in
punnets and packed in boxes or baskets.

SPINACH.

This vegetable is in season all the year but there is
often a short supply in early spring as severe weather
cripples the growth. It produces freely in the spring
given good culture, and again in the late summer or

358 GATHERING, STORING AND PACKING

early autumn months when the large succulent leaves
are much enjoyed. To get these a rich root run and
severe thinning are necessary. When cut it should
be used quickly, and is useful as a " packing" when
sending other vegetables.

RHUBARB.

This is in great demand from January to May
and is largely grown for market. The early forced
Rhubarb is most liked in private gardens. It is
grown in a dark place to give the bright colour so
much liked and is also forced largely for sale, two or
three stalks with a good portion of the leaves being
tied together. Larger bundles are made later on
and sent in crates or baskets, or whole van loads are
packed up at one time. The varieties differ as re-
gards colour, the Champagne being a market favourite.

TOMATOES.

These should be quite fresh though they keep a
long time if not dead ripe or at all damaged. A
smooth even well-coloured Tomato is better than
a large ribbed one. Many force Tomatoes under
glass for spring and these give by far the best return
though it is only fair to state that the best-flavoured
fruits are those grown under glass without heat and
that ripen from July to September. Many gather
the fruits before they are at all ripe but this means

TOMATOES 359

poor quality, as though they ripen they are less juicy.
For sending in quantities to market the fruits must
not be over-ripe, and they should be as much as possible
of one size, that is carefully graded and sent in cross-
handled baskets with paper round the sides and over
the fruits, ten to twelve Ibs. weight being in a basket.
Later on they are sold in half sieves, bushels and flats
and the fruit in all cases is just below the rim of the
basket or flat so that pressure is avoided. Taking the
imported fruits into account Tomatoes are in season all
the year. The late full-grown fruits in autumn keep
a long time if stored on a cool dry shelf and gathered
whilst green. Soft fruits, those that bruise easily,
are not liked in the market, they must be firm though
well coloured. Open-air fruits will often be fully
ripe on one side and not the unexposed half. These
need care in marketing and well repay housing for a
few days till ripe. It is a good plan to go over
both forced and open-air fruits daily and place in
single layers in boxes which should be transferred to
a warm house but not on hot shelves as this causes
shrivelling. The yellow varieties are not favourites
in the market but for home supplies they are ex-
cellent in salads and of rich flavour. The small
unripened green fruits are useful for making into
pickles and are much liked when mixed with other
things for making Chutney. Some small Plum and
Currant-shaped varieties are of excellent quality and
make a useful addition to the salad bowl but are
useless for cooking.

360 GATHERING, STORING AND PACKING

VEGETABLE MARROWS, GOURDS AND SQUASHES.

In private gardens the Vegetable Marrow is always
welcome as it is a wholesome addition to the green
vegetables. Unfortunately it is very tender and this
in cold seasons makes the fruit later. The same
advice as regards the gathering in private gardens
does not apply to the market grower who requires
large fruits with firmly set skins that do not bruise.
Considerable room is required also in packing. On
the other hand if quality is considered the fruits
should not be allowed to harden or partially mature
their seeds but be cut in a much younger state and
cooked whole without being even peeled. Full-grown
fruits are dry and mealy, but when young make a
much nicer dish. There is no loss by early cutting
as if the fruits are allowed to get big there is a smaller
crop. The fruits keep good for some days in a cool
place, but put the stalk end in water or in damp moss.
Large fruits are much liked in manufacturing towns
and they are made into jams and compotes not un-
like preserved ginger. They are sent to market in
crates and early in the season in flat baskets, the long
green and white kinds being the most largely grown.
Very large fruits are kept for winter use. By hanging
them up in dry rooms they keep good for a long time.

Much the same treatment is required to grow
Gourds and Pumpkins. The edible varieties are quite
as useful in a young state, and when fully grown are
used in a similar way. Some varieties attain a great

HERBS 361

weight, and they are much more grown in the United
States than in this country.

HERBS.

For home supplies herbs are in most demand in
a green state and in packing vegetables it is always
important to place small quantities in the basket for use
with other things. Mint is largely used in the spring,
and this to be good should be fresh and always obtained
from young plants, as these give a much stronger
growth. Sweet and Bush Basil are favourite herbs,
and like Mint find a ready sale in the market, but
they are not so readily forced as Mint, which is largely
grown in market gardens. Basil is a summer herb
but may be had in a dried state for winter supplies ;
it is not hardy in this country. Other herbs such as
Thyme, Marjoram, Sage and TarrJgon, should be cut
when nearly full grown, tied in small bunches and
hung up in a cool shed for use when dry. Parsley is
an evergreen and should be grown in quantities, being
always in season. Sown in the early spring and again
in August there will be a regular supply if not grown
too thickly. This is useful cut and dried at the end
of the summer. Other herbs such as Borage, Fennel,
Chives and Chervil are not required so much but
should be grown in small quantities.

23*

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