THE ESTABLISHMENT OF PUBLIC PARKS CITY OF NEW YORK GHERARDI DAVIS. Read before he New York Historical Society, April 6, 1897. i a THE ESTABLISHMENT OF PUBLIC PARKS IN THE CITY OF NEW YORK. BY GHER.ARDI DAVIS. Read before The New York Historical Society, April 6, 1897. '•■AUK .4 «H»i6 and which is thus divided into two parts, is, as far as its western half is concerned, to be compared with any other of the small parks of the City. Like Gramercy Park, it is sur- rounded by a high iron railing, and it re- sembles that park, although it is not as picturesque. The parks, the history of which has been followed so far, and of which some are among the oldest parks in the City, were not laid out pursuant to any particular plan or under any special law, and in some instances are but the result of a very gradual de- velopment. The parks at the Battery and the City Hall, and Washington, Tompkins, Union and Madison Squares, and the other open spaces in the lower part of the City, some of which have been public grounds for two centuries or more, were used either as squares, or parade grounds, or at times even for markets or burial places. They were 28 maintained by the Board of Supervisors, the Commissioners of Streets and other city functionaries, who, from time to time were charged with that duty before the present Park Department was created. But Central Park and the other parks in the upper part of the City, were laid out upon well-defined lines and in pursuance of carefully con- ceived plans, and, in fact, the great develop- ment of the present park system, which now covers an area of more than 5,000 acres, was begun with the laying out of Central Park. In 185 1 Mayor Kingsland addressed the Common Council in a short, jKlSfc spirited message on the subject of new parks in New York. He urged the Committee on Lands and Places to examine into this question, and the matter was taken up so promptly and vigorously that in July, 185 1, at a special session of the Legislature, an act was passed authorizing the taking of St. John's Wood as a park. This was a wild and beautifully wooded tract of land lying between 66th and 75th Streets, Third Avenue and the East River, with a high, steep bluff overlooking the river. Hardly had this act been passed when vigorous opposition was aroused, prompted mainly by worthy motives, in part, it is said, by personal feeling, and a very strong move- ment was begun in favor of what is now 29 Central Park. A committee of the Common Council reported strongly in favor of Central Park, and in July, 1853, an act was passed creating a Commission, and authorizing the taking of land between 59th Street and 106th Street, Fifth Avenue and Eighth Avenue as a public park. The proceed- ings which were subsequently commenced for acquiring title to the land, were confirmed February 5, 1856, and on the 17th of April of the following year an act was passed designating the land as " The Central Park," and providing for its laying out, improvement, regulation and govern- ment by a board consisting of eleven per- sons, styled "The Commissioners of the Central Park." This commission consisted of Robert J. Dillon, James E. Cooley, Charles H. Russell, John F. Butterworth, John E. C. Gray, Waldo Hutchins, Thomas C. Fields, Andrew H. Green, Charles W. Elliott, Wil- liam K. Strong and James Hogg. By an act passed April 2, 1859, the lands for the Park were extended northerly to 110th Street. The Commissioners entered upon their duties early in the year 1859, and vacancies, which until April, 1859, were filled by nomina- tion of the Board, added to the Board August Belmont, Henry G. Stebbins, Richard M. Blatchford and Moses H. Grinnell. In the spring of 1870 the charter of that year created the Department of Public Parks, to to be governed by a board of five members, and extended the jurisdiction of the Depart- ment over all parks and public grounds above Canal street. A law of a few days later, amending the charter, included the re- maining parks south of that street. This law remained in force until 1873, when the present charter reduced the Board to four members, its present number. The Commission appointed in 1853 called for plans for the Central Park, and thirty- three were submitted — some fantastic, some wholly unpractical, others good. But the design which seems to have been unques- tionably superior to all others, and which all see and enjoy in its execution, was that sub- mitted by two men, whose names will ever be associated with this wonderful piece of work — Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux. While it would not be possible to describe the Olmsted and Vaux plan, it may be well to refer to some of the methods pursued in laying out Central Park. There was to be a driveway so laid out as to give as long and as beautiful a road as possible. There were to be cross-drives and walks for pedestrians ; there were to be ponds and cascades, meadows and flower beds; there were to be gates at various points, and the}'' appear on the maps with such name as Scholars' Gate, Artists' Gate, Strangers' Gate, Woodman's Gate, 3i Warriors' Gate — names which are seldom, if ever, applied. Great care was taken to pre- serve as much as possible of the natural beauty of the ground. At the same time, in many instances, the skill of the landscape gardener was applied to the production of effects so like Nature that it is difficult to tell where Nature ends and landscape gardening begins. The grounds now forming Central Park were described forty years ago as being thickets and swamps, pestilential pools and rocky gulleys, covered with unsightly hovels, and their attending nuisances. The char- acter of the soil was rough, covered with rank herbage, and without much healthy vegetation. All this has been changed. While the general topography remains the same, and the lakes and water- courses are natural, they were subjected to careful treat- ment to secure the best effects. Thus the westerly end of Harlem Creek, which ex- tended from uoth Street and Fifth Avenue to the East River, was made into a lake ; the ravines just west of this lake were carefully preserved, and the wisdom of the extension of the park from 106th to uoth Streets is appar- ent to all who know this part of Central Park. From old Fort Fish, at the northeast- erly end of the Park, on one of its highest points, one can easily follow with the eye the chain of hills which extends across Man- $2 hattan Island from about 125th Street and North River in the direction of 80th Street and East River. These hills run south from 125th Street, forming- a ridge on which now stand Columbia College and St. Luke's Hos- pital, and upon which the Cathedral is to be built. Their eastern face is now known as Morningside Park ; their western slope is Riverside Drive. At 110th Street a line of hills branches off east and south across the northern end of the Park, and thence to the East River. These hills were crossed by McGowan's Pass, and along the top of the hills were constructed various military works during the Revolution, and again at the time of the War of 181 2. The remains of some of the old fortifications erected in 18 12 can still be traced, among others, Fort Fish. It de- fended McGowan's Pass, which crossed the hills near what is now the East Drive. A great many remains of military works have been discovered in this neighborhood, in making excavations for improvements, and on the elevation known as Great Hill, on the westerly side of the Park from 104th to 106th Streets, traces of old encampments were found in the shape of tent floors, camp uten- sils, and other similar articles. The Block House, at the northwesterly corner of the Park, overlooks the hillsoverwhich theBritish retreated in the Battle of Harlem Heights. As has been more than once described in 33 papers read before the New York Historical Society, they passed over the present site of Columbia College, and crossed to where the northwest corner of Central Park now is, followed by the Americans to near this point. From the hills at the northern end of the Park to the great Reservoir, the land is very irregular, and here and there the rocks show unquestioned traces of the action of ice. Just north of the Reservoir in a broad valley are the meadows, where in summer tennis courts are laid out, and hundreds of people enjoy themselves at this game. Standing here, it is difficult to believe that one is in a city, less than half a mile away from elevated roads and cable cars, and all the other roar and bustle of a very noisy city. The southern half of Central Park differs very much from the northern part. It has been laid out more artificially than the upper end, and has been much more carefully cultivated and ornamented. This was of necessity the case by reason of the different formation of the land, there being no such natural beauties in this part of the park as are to be found among the hills and rocks at the northern end. Neverthe- less, the fine trees along the Mall and else- where, the broad meadows and the lakes, well merit admiration, and anyone who has been in Central Park about the first of 34 May will be convinced that these meadows are withoutquestion the greatest playgrounds of the children of New York. Near, too, we find the Metropolitan Museum of Art, whose influence has not, however, prevented the continued existence of such statues as those of Burns and Scott. Of course, the cost of the land taken for Central Park was great, the amount being over five millions, and its construction and maintenance, as the writer is informed by the Secretary of the Park Department, has cost up to the present time upwards of fifteen millions of dollars. The area of Central Park is 840 acres, its length a little more than 2\ miles, and its width a trifle over £ a mile. The space occupied by the Croton Water Reservoirs and the Trans- verse Roads reduces the actual park area to about 683 acres. Its lakes and ornamen- tal waters cover an area of nearly 44^ acres. What the value of the land is, it is difficult to say. Ex-Mayor Gilroy put it, in an article written by him on the wealth of New York, at two hundred millions, and it can hardly be doubted that this is a reasonable estimate of its value. The great improvements made in the Park have at the same time unques- tionably affected adjoining property, and helped to enhance its value. In 1856, the year before the Park was taken, the assessed value of land and property in the various 35 wards adjoining Central Park was some- what under twenty-one millions, while in the year 1895 its value had risen to over six hundred and eighty millions. Much of this increase is without doubt due to Central Park. After Central Park was laid out, nothing was done for some years in connection with adding additional area to the park lands of the City, but in 1869 what is now known as Riverside Park was laid out along the west- Street. The bank of the North River is here high and steep, and no better use could have been made of it than that to which it has been put. The land for the park was ac- quired in 1872 at a cost of over $6,000,000. The area of the park is 177.8 acres. The first improvement was the construction of Riverside Drive, from 7 2d Street, north, which was opened to the public in 1880, and is now practically complete, with the excep- tion of a viaduct, which is to carry it over the depression at 96th Street. The park on the west of the Drive, that is, on the slope of the hills running down to the river, has not yet been completed, but much work has been done in planting shrubs and in the preserva- tion of trees, many of which are fine and large, and the result of natural growth. At Riverside Park. erly slope of the hills, which have previously been spoken of as running south from 125th 36 the upper end of Riverside Drive is the well- known Claremont, overlooking the river, and here is the magnificent tomb of General Grant. Near by, in striking contrast, is the odd little monument erected to the memory of "An Amiable Child," around which many sentimental stories have been woven. Morningside Park runs along the easterly slope of the range of hills, the westerly slope of which is taken up by MOrparkS'de Riverside. Morningside, River- side and Central Parks do not quite meet, but are so connected by broad streets, that one may drive or walk from j2d Street and the North River up to 1 20th Street across to Morningside Park, and south again to 110th Street, thence to Central Park, and through that park to 59th Street, nearly all the way within the domain of city parks Those who ride a bicycle are undoubtedly familiar with this stretch of park land. Morningside was a few years ago a rugged bluff of bare rocks, now made beautiful by shrubs, grass plots and flowers, where under the usual New York system of laying out streets, one might have expected to find gullies with vertical walls of rock, like rail- road cuts. Much money had to be spent in accom- plishing the results obtained here, and Morn- ingside Park, which contains slightly over 31 acres, has cost over $1,500,000 for the land 37 alone. But the results are well worth the money spent. At the northerly end of the Park are further remains of some old fortifi- cations of 1812. The view east from the top of this park is well worth seeing. The roadway overlooks the flat land of Harlem, and beyond this one sees the East River, and far beyond Long Island and the upper end of New York across the Harlem River. The stretch of parks from 59th Street and Fifth Avenue to 125th Street and the North River is unrivalled for beauty in any city in the world. Much admiration seems to have been wasted on the plan adopted by the Commissioners in 1807, in so far as it made provision for parks. Too much, however, cannot be said in praise of Mayor Kingsland and the able Commissioners who had charge of Central Park, and adopted the Olmstead and Vaux plans. Nor can too much be said in praise of the policy which led to the creation of Morningside and Riverside parks, and has since led to the laying out of parks north of the Harlem. In the early eighties a new burst of energy led to the extension of the Citv's Parks North of , , , the Harlem ^a domain m a wholly un- precedented manner. Instead of waiting for New York to cover what is known as the Annexed District, and then pro- ceeding to lay out parks, the City has wisely $8 adopted a very extensive plan for new parks, bought the land and begun to improve it, thus anticipating the needs of an ever-increasing population north of the Harlem. This was done under an act of the Legislature of April 19, 1883, which provided for the ap- pointment of Commissioners to select and locate lands for public parks in the Twenty- third and Twenty-fourth wards and in their vicinity. Under this act Mayor Edson ap- pointed Luther R. Marsh, Louis Fitzgerald, Waldo Hutchins, Charles L. Tiffany, William W. Niles, George W. McLean and Thomas J. Crombie, and, following their report to the Legislature, that body passed a law on June 14, 1884, laying out and providing for the acquisition of the following parks: Van Cortlandt, which contains. 1,132.35 acres. Bronx, which contains 661.60 " Pelham Bay, which contains.. .1,756 " Crotona, which contains 141.65 " Claremont, which contains . . . 38.05 " St. Mary's, which contains 28.70 " Bronx and Pelham Parkway, which contains 95 " Mosholu Parkway, which con- tains 80 " Crotona Parkway, which con- tains 12 " a total of 3,945-35 acres, that is, an area nearly five times that of Cen- 59 tral Park. At that time the total area of the city parks was only 1,094 acres — less than Van Cortlandt Park alone. The report of the Commission appointed to acquire the lands was confirmed by the courts in the year 1889. The total cost to the City of acquiring- the land was $9,969,- 603.04. These parks reach from the Sound nearly to the Hudson, and cover a vast area of beautiful country, where there are hills and valleys, meadows and woods, streams and lakes, far surpassing in beauty Central Park. The development of these new parks will be gradual with the growth of the city, and consistent with economical expenditure. For, of course, it was not intended that these vast park lands should be immediately com- pleted. Their area is so great that the ex- pense would be prohibitory. Comparatively little has been done as yet toward the permanent improvement of these parks, with the exception of the parade ground in Van Cortlandt Park, where a CanTttdt traCt °f 120 aCr6S haS beeU im" Bronx Parks Prove^ an^ set apart for the use of the National Guard. Some work has also been done in connection with the macadamizing of a part of the roads in Van Cortlandt and Pelham Bay Parks. A new roadway is now being constructed on the line of the Bronx and Pelham Parkway, 4o and this, and other similar work, is being carried on by the Department with an ex- penditure of several hundred thousands of dollars annually. Each year's work may not show for itself, but the result will, in a few years, be very apparent. The natural beauties and peculiar fitness for a public park of the lands lying along both banks of the Bronx River led to the selection of this valley by the Park Commis- sion for what is now Bronx Park. As that Commission said in its report to the Legis- lature: "That such a spot should exist in its original state, in its native wildness, so near the settled portion of the great city, and yet be almost so wholly unknown and unsuspected, will awaken surprise." The river runs through the park from end to end, over rocks and old mill dams, and here and there forming small ponds. Along its banks is a rich growth of trees and shrubs, as wild in appearance in places as if the hand of man had never touched them. Among them is a fine tree of over 150 feet in height, which has long been known as De Lancey's pine, having received its name, it is said, from the De Lancey family, who formerly owned the land. There is also a huge boulder, which is evidently a glacial deposit, weighing probably more than 100 tons, yet so bal- anced on the rock upon which it was 41 originally deposited ages ago, that it can easily be made to swing on its rocky base. The reservation set apart for the use of the New York Botanical Garden and Arboretum in Bronx Park covers an area of 250 acres of land. The Park Board has also approved of the use of a portion of the same park for the purposes of the New York Zoologi- cal Society — a decided improvement on the present Zoological Garden in Central Park. St. Mary's Park, Claremont Park and Crotona Park, all south and west of Bronx Park, do not call for any particular mention. There is, however, a feature of the new park system which ought not to be overlooked, and that is the Parkways, — broad avenues connecting Bronx Parks with Parkways. Van Cortlandt, Pelham and Crotona Parks. They are sev- eral hundred feet wide, and are so laid out that one can pass from one park to another, without going through city streets — a plan which ought to have been adopted to con- nect Central Park with Morningside and Riverside. These parkways are Mosholu Parkway, connecting Van Cortlandt with Bronx Park ; Crotona Parkway, connect- ing Crotona with Bronx Park, and the Bronx and Pelham Parkway, which connects Bronx Park with Pelham Bay Park on the Sound. 43 Pelham Bay Park has one feature which Neck. The laying out of this park was in part urged in order that the people might have access to the water by way of a park. No one who has seen the Sound on a sum- mer afternoon can doubt the wisdom of the Commission which laid out this park so that it should reach the water. Objection was made that it was outside, of the city, and it is true that the park was originally in West- chester County. But no equally well-situ- ated land was to be had nearer to the city, and when the so-called Annexed District became part of New York, this park was brought within the city limits, its northerly boundary being the same as the northerly boundary line of the city at this point. This Park, too, is of historical interest. Here occurred on October 18, 1778, a fight between the British and the Americans, when General Howe made an effort to get in the rear of Washington's army, and cut it off from its base of supplies in Connecticut, just before the battle of White Plains. There, too, the Hutchinson River recalls the romance of Anne Hutchinson The incidents connected with the land where these parks are situated, and relating to our early history, have often been told in Pelham Bay Park. no other park possesses, and that is its water front on the Sound, just back of Throggs 43 the New York Historical Society in a man- ner far more complete and more interesting than the writer can possibly relate them. There is the Old Manor House in Van Cort- landt Park, a residence of the Van Cortlandt family, erected in the middle of the XVIII century (1748), where General Washington and Rochambeau dined just prior to the York- town campaign. When Washington decided in July of 1781 to join Lafayette at Yorktown, he lighted his camp fires on the summit of Vault Hill to deceive the enemy in regard to his movements. The vault, which gives its name to this spot, was the burial place of the Van Cortlandt family, and still exists. The country near this and the Mosholu Val- ley was the scene of many bloody fights between the Stockbridge Indians and the English. The spot, known as Indian Field, received its name from a grave, which is said to have held the remains of forty Indians. There are still a few smaller parks to be and constructed, like Central Park, solely for the purpose of creating open spaces for the benefit of the public. Manhattan Park, which surrounds the Natural History Museum, does not call for any especial comment. With the completion of the Museum, there will be hardly any of Smaller Parks and Squares. mentioned, several of which have been recently laid out, and all of which were designed 44 the open space left, and, as a park, it will practically disappear. Bryant Park, between 40th and 42d streets, known to most people because of its prox- imity to the old reservoir, is as beautiful a spot as can be found in the city. It is here that the new Public Library is to be erected. Mount Morris Park, which lies across Fifth avenue at 124th street, is well worth more than a mere passing notice. It is a large space in the centre of which is a bold, rocky eminence formerly called Snake Hill, or, in Dutch, Slange Berg. After having remained an abandoned space for many years, the records show that in 1869 work upon it was being actively pushed, and it was soon com- pleted as a park. The fact that it contains a hill, which rises abruptly above the sur- rounding streets, adds very much to its beauty. East River Park, which lies at the foot of 88th street and the East River, is one of the most recent of the public squares or parks which has been opened. It is near, or covers a part of the old country places of a number of well-known New York families, like the Gracies, Schermerhorns, Crugers, Waldrons and Rhinelanders. The house which stands at the point overlooking the water was for- merly the residence of Mr. Gracie, one of the ancestors of a well-known family of this city. It overlooks the waters of Hell Gate with 45 Mill Rock and the upper end of Blackwell's Island but a short distance away. Many of the trees on this country place, until re- cently, overhung the water. The writer has heard one of Mr. Grade's descendants say that in the early part of the century a large warship, passing through Hell Gate, was car- ried by the current so near the bank that her yards caught in the trees, while the ship floated in deep water. For the past few years greater attention has been directed toward the acquisition and improvement of additional parks in the lower portion of the City, and more especi- ally in the crowded tenement house districts. Corlear's Hook Park, in the Seventh Ward, is very near the site of a garden, where a hundred years since New Yorkers were ac- customed to go for refreshments and amuse- ment. It and Mulberry Bend Park, in the Sixth Ward, now take the place of squalid tenements. Jeanette Park, at Coenties Slip, is a small plot of green along the water's edge, and Old St. John's Cemetery lands, in the Ninth Ward, have just been acquired for park purposes, and are about to be improved. Other proceedings are now pending for ac- quiring title to parks in the lower part of the City as a result of the efforts of the Tene- ment House Commission to procure breath- ing spaces, where most needed, for the relief of the poorer classes. The acquisition of 4* Fort Washington Park a few months ago, and the proposed Colonial and St. Nicholas Parks, on the upper West Side on Manhat- tan Island, will still further increase the park area of the City and add much to its beauty. To go further into this interesting subject would lead to the presentation of a mass of figures and scientific descriptions, if an at- tempt were made to examine the laying out of the parks from the point of view of the landscape gardener; or the dry domain of legal technicalities, would soon be reached if the writer were to go farther into the ques- tion of how the land was acquired for the parks; or again, it would call for a review of much of the history of the City, if reference were made at any greater length to the his- torical events connected with the parks and the land they occupy. To do justice to the beauties of the landscapes in the City parks, calls for an artist rather than a writer. New York may well be proud of the work done by the Park Department during the past twenty years, for the care which the Commissioners of that Department have be- stowed upon our park system has already to a great extent made up for the former lack of parks in the lower half of the city. NOTE. In the libraries of the New York Histor- ical Society and of the Association of the Bar there are many interesting maps show- ing-, among other things, the development of Battery Park. The former library owns a unique set of water-colors, made in 1812, of the defenses of upper New York, which show quite clearly the appearance of Manhattan Island in the neighborhood of the present 1 10th Street from river to river. The Manuals of the Corporation contain not only much information about the parks, but also many views of Central Park, the Battery, etc. The reports of the various Commissions should be consulted for information about the original laying out of the new parks. ! i » 4